Serger - Byrne Sewing Connection

Serger - Byrne Sewing Connection
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Mastering Your
Serger
Owner’s Workbook
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
1
®
©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Table of Contents
Class 1 - General Information..................................................... 3
Introduction ..................................................................................................... 4
Presser Feet & Accessories ............................................................................ 5
Needles ........................................................................................................... 6
Thread ............................................................................................................. 8
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock ........................................................................ 10
Adjusting Tensions ........................................................................................ 12
Stitch Length ................................................................................................. 18
Cutting Width ................................................................................................. 20
Differential Feed ............................................................................................ 22
mtc - Micro Thread Control ........................................................................... 28
Securing Ends ............................................................................................... 30
Serging a Tube .............................................................................................. 32
Product Reference List ................................................................................. 34
Class 2 - Four Thread Techniques ........................................... 35
Serger Seams ............................................................................................... 36
Seaming Knits ............................................................................................... 38
Serger Piecing............................................................................................... 46
Elasticator ..................................................................................................... 50
Gathering Foot and Attachment .................................................................... 52
Product Reference List ................................................................................. 58
Class 3 - Three-Thread Techniques ......................................... 59
3-Thread Overlock ........................................................................................ 60
3-thread Overlock with mtc. .......................................................................... 68
3-Thread Flatlock .......................................................................................... 72
Blindstitch Foot .............................................................................................. 78
3-Thread Rolled Hem .................................................................................... 86
Cording Foot ................................................................................................. 88
Product Reference List ................................................................................. 92
Class 4 - Miscellaneous Techniques ....................................... 93
3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch ....................................................................... 94
2-Thread Flatlock .......................................................................................... 98
2-Thread Flatlock with mtc. ........................................................................ 102
2-Thread Rolled Hem .................................................................................. 104
2-Thread Wrapped Edge ............................................................................ 106
Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide .................................................................... 108
Product Reference List ............................................................................... 116
Class 5 - Cover & Chain ...........................................................117
Cover Stitch ................................................................................................. 118
Chain Stitch ................................................................................................. 130
Combination Stitches (1300MDC only) ....................................................... 136
Product Reference List ............................................................................... 140
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
2
®
©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Class 1
General Information
Class Overview
Machine Overview
Parts of the serger
Setting up the serger
Basic Serging Samples
1 Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
2 Adjusting Tensions - Loopers
3 Adjusting Tensions - Loopers
4 Adjusting Tensions - Needles
5 Stitch Length Adjustment
6 Cutting Width Adjustment
7 Differential Feed - Stretch
8 Differential Feed - Pucker
9 Differential Feed - Gathering & Easing
10 Micro Thread Control - mtc
11 Securing Serged Seams
12 Serging a Tubular Project
Serger Accessories
Tweezers
Lower Looper Threader (700D only)
Needle Threader
(optional for 700D & 800DL)
Brush/Needle Insertion Tool
Spool Caps
Spool Cones
Thread Nets
Thread
Good quality vs. poor quality
Construction/All-Purpose Thread
Decorative Thread
Care & Cleaning
Removing Lint from Inside Serger
Oiling
Replacing the Cutting Knives
Yearly “Tune Up”
by Authorized BERNINA® technician
Needles
Types of Needles
Sizes of Needles
Parts of Needles
Matching Needle & Thread
Threading for Overlock Serging
The Threading Path
Threading Order
First – Upper Looper (Blue)
Second – Lower Looper (Red)
Third – Right Needle (Green)
Fourth – Left Needle (Yellow)
Test Serging
This class is formatted for owners of
the following models of BERNINA®
overlock machines:
• 700D
• 800DL
• 1150MDA
• 1300MDC
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
3
®
©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Introduction
Congratulations on your purchase of a BERNINA® serger!
This workbook is designed to be used in conjunction with the Owners Classes you will take at
your BERNINA® dealership, and contains a series of exercises intended to familiarize you with
the features of your new BERNINA® overlock machine. In addition, you will learn about
needles, threads, presser feet and accessories, all of which will increase your knowledge of
serging and assist you in achieving success in all of your serging endeavors.
Once you have completed the exercises designated for your BERNINA® overlock machine,
attach the sewn samples to the indicated pages and insert the pages into plastic page protectors and store them in a 3-ring binder. They can then be used as a reference tool in the future
as you use your machine and explore the creative possibilities it affords you.
BERNINA® of America, Inc. strives to provide its customers not just with quality sewing
and overlock machines, but with informative publications and classes. Along with providing
Owners Classes, your local BERNINA® dealer stocks BERNINA® books and magazines, such
as Feetures, Serger Technique Reference Guide, and Through the Needle. Plus, BERNINA® of
America, Inc. has a website – www.berninausa.com – offering free projects, basic sewing and
serging information, a glossary of sewing terms, inspirational stories, interviews with creative
stitchers, and a variety of articles and postings that appeal to all types of stitchers,
no matter which machines are their favorites.
My BERNINA® overlock machine
model is: __________________
Learn to use your BERNINA® serger to
its full extent and enjoy being creative
with fabric and thread!
I purchased it on: ____________
at ________________________
__________________________
__________________________
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
4
®
©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Presser Feet & Accessories
BERNINA® Presser Feet:
• are precision engineered for specific functions
• are, in some cases, modeled after commercial feet used in factories to increase speed and production
with professional looking results
• do the job intended in relation to all types of sewing (ex. garment-making, quilting, home dec, etc.)
• are supported by the best and most complete educational materials in the industry, such as the Serging
Technique Reference Guide, Feetures, and the BERNINA® website at www.berninausa.com
Additional Presser Feet
& Accessories Available for
BERNINA® Sergers:
• Blindhem Foot
• Cording Foot
• Elasticator
• Gathering Attachment
• Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
• Standard Foot with Tape Guide
• Attachment Base
• Looper/Needle Threader
• Left Seam Guide
• Right Seam Guide
• Upper Looper Converter
• Waste Collector
• Serger Technique Reference Book
• Feet-ures Volume 2 (Unit M)
• Feet-ures Volume 3 (Unit P)
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
5
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Needles
Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation. Many
“mechanical” problems and damage to fabrics can be traced to a bent,
damaged, or incorrect size or type needle. Approximately 60% of all
needles made are discarded at some stage of production. When selecting the correct needle for any serging project, three things must be
considered:
Needle system – 130/705H
Needle point – to assure stitch formation and avoid fabric damage
Needle size – smaller for lightweight fabrics; larger for heavier ones
Notes
If the needle is:
Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a loop
to be picked up by the looper
Bent – thread loop forms too far away from looper, which can’t
enter loop to form stitch
Blunt – needle won’t pierce fabric so no thread loop forms to make
a stitch
Need To Know
• Never use a needle bigger than size 90/14 in your serger; larger
needles can interfere with looper movement and cause damage.
• Needle should be changed every 4-6 hours of sewing. The needle
is the most inexpensive part in your serger but is one of the most
crucial for getting good results and keeping your machine running
well. Don’t let false economy keep you from doing what is best for
your sewing projects and your machine.
• European needles are chrome-plated to glide through fabric easily.
• The selected thread should fit in the groove on the front of the
needle. If it isn’t protected by the groove, a needle with a larger
groove should be used.
• Always make sure needles are fully inserted as high as possible,
with the flat side to the back.
Needle Size Conversion
European
60 = 8
70 = 10
75 = 11
80 = 12
vs. Domestic
90 = 14
100 = 16
110 = 18
120 = 19
Regardless of the system, the greater
the number, the larger the diameter
of the needle. Never use a needle
larger than size 90/14 in your serger!
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
6
®
©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Needle Chart
Never use a needle bigger than size 90/14 in your serger;
larger needles can interfere with looper movement and cause damage.
Ball Point
70-90
Has a rounded point. 70 for lingerie, nylon, jersey;
80 for T-shirt; 90 for sweatshirt fleece.
Stretch
70-90
A stretch needle has a more rounded point and
a blue anti-cling coating which helps to prevent
skipped stitches in knits and elastic. Sometimes
used on Ultrasuede®, vinyl, and plastic.
Universal
60-90
Jeans
Microtex
Sharp
(Schmetz)
70-90
60-90
A compromise between a sharp and a ballpoint
needle; can be used on both wovens and knits.
60 – very fine batiste
70 – broadcloth
80 – trigger and gabardine
90 – denim and twill
Has a sharp point and a shaft that is less prone to
flex. The sharpness of the needles makes it better for
use on denim and woven fabrics where a clean stitch
is desired.
A sharp point with a thin shaft. 60-90 corresponds
to the weight of the fabric; as the fabric gets heavier
or denser, the number is higher. Specially designed
for microfiber fabrics.
Microfiber assort’d The thin, tapered point of this needle causes less
(Lammertz) (75 & 90) damage to fabric when seaming and cross seaming.
Quilting
Topstitch
80-90
A sharp point with a large eye and deep groove.
Use with heavier fabrics – the large groove cradles
heavy threads.
Embroidery
(Schmetz)
75-90
Sharp needle with a large eye and groove; also has a
coating and a larger scarf. For use with embroidery
thread – prevents shredding of rayon or metallic
threads. Two threads may be used through the eye of
an 80 or 90 needle.
Metafil (Lammertz)
Leather
80-90
Point is a sharp cutting wedge. Used for leather only.
Not for vinyl or simulated leathers.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Thread
Poor quality or the wrong type of thread can cause poor stitches on any
machine. Thread passes through the eye of the needle approximately
37 times in a “see-saw” action before it forms a single stitch. Poor
quality thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered seams,
frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. To achieve quality stitches, an
overlock machine needs three things: correct thread, correct size
needle, and properly adjusted settings.
Notes
Several factors such as the fiber, twist, ply, finish, and size of thread
must be considered for use with today’s fabrics for fine stitches.
Staple – refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a
single ply. Domestic thread fiber lengths are usually 1½” to 2½” long
while European threads use 5½” to 6½” lengths.
Ply – number of strands twisted together to make a single thread.
Roll – the tendency of thread to roll to the right or left during
stitching, causing the stitch to appear slightly crooked. Poor quality
threads are more likely to roll.
Twist – the crimping of fibers which causes them to interlock firmly into
a single ply. Thread should not untwist during stitching. This will cause
skipped stitches, thread breakage, crooked stitches, and weak spots in
seams.
Right twist – most American
threads are twisted to the right,
causing some rolling. This gives
average stitch quality.
Left twist – Most commercial and
imported threads are twisted to
the left, giving better than average
stitch quality. Left twist resists
rolling and makes a larger loop for
the hook point to enter, reducing
skipped stitches.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
8
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Thread
Wearable art embellishment has necessitated the creation and marketing of many new thread types, such as rayons and metallics.
Threads made in West Germany are left twist threads; Mettler and
Isacord threads are also left twist. To test the twist of a thread: while
holding the spool in the left hand, roll the strand of thread towards you
with one thumb. Left twist will tighten, right twist will loosen.
Notes
Fiber – refers to the type of material used to produce the thread.
Some commonly used threads:
• Polyester Overlock Thread – such as Mettler Metrocor
Thinner than regular sewing thread, eliminating bulk in serger
stitch formations. An excellent all-purpose serger thread.
• Texturized Nylon Thread – such as YLI Woolly Nylon
and Mettler Metroflock. A very elastic thread with excellent
coverage; perfect for rolled edges and knit seams. Available
in solid and variegated colors, and metallics.
• Polyester Topstitching Thread – such as YLI Jeans Stitch
& Mettler Cordonnet – this heavy thread is used for decorative
stitching, such as flatlocked seams and overcast edges. Also
nice for cover and chain stitching. Available in solid and
variegated colors.
• Rayon Decorative Threads – such as YLI Pearl Crown Rayon
& YLI Designer 6 – shiny threads for decorative applications.
Pearl Crown Rayon is twisted, while Designer 6 is untwisted.
Available in solid and variegated colors.
• Metallic Decorative Threads – such as YLI Candlelight –
adds a bit of glitz to seams and edgings.
• Decorative Sewing Threads – sewing machine threads can
also be used in the serger, and are particularly effective when
several are used together as one thread.
Storage of Thread
Thread does wear out and should be stored with care to keep it usable
as long as possible. Extreme moisture may cause thread to swell while
very dry conditions can leave it dry and brittle as it ages. Store thread
in a covered container (thread box with a lid, cabinet with doors, or
drawers that close) if possible to keep it dust-free.
Be wary of old spools of thread recovered from Grandma’s sewing
box. The fibers may be so weak and brittle that even if it sews into a
seam, it may be so unstable that the garment or project will not hold
together and the life of the project may be considerably shortened.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
9
®
©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Fabric ........................................................................... firm fabric, 6” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ............................................................... 4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4 thread overlock stitch using thread colors to
match the color-coded threading path on the serger.
Adjust all thread tension settings as indicated.
Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.
To begin stitching, lift the front of the presser foot with your right thumb
and slide the fabric under the presser foot. Release the tip of the presser
foot and begin serging.
Serge to the end of the fabric. Continue stitching off the fabric until you
have a 3”- 4” thread chain. Cut thread chain.
Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the balanced
stitch graphic on page__ of your Owner's manual.
Read the information under Adjusting the Thread Tension on page__
of the Owner's manual for information about the stitch formation and
correcting any stitch irregularities.
Make any necessary tension adjustments and serge another row of
stitching.
Trim and mount the sample.
Record your serger’s “personal” tension settings
for a balanced overlock in the chart below:
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Left Needle
Right Needle
Upper Looper
Lower Looper
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
10
®
©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
11
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Adjusting Tensions
Fabric ................................................... 6 pieces firm fabric, each 3” x 6”
......................................................... 1 piece of lightweight cotton, 3” x 4”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ............................................................... 4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Lower Looper - Increased Tension
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch using thread colors
to match the color-coded threading path on the serger.
Fold each piece of the firm fabric to 1½” x 4” and set aside.
Locate the thread tension levers on the front of the serger. From left
to right, these levers adjust tension for the Left Needle, Right Needle,
Upper Looper, and the Lower Looper.
Adjust the lower looper thread tension lever to 7 to increase the
tension on the looper thread.
Place the first piece of folded fabric under the presser foot with the
fold to the right and serge to the end of the fabric, cutting off the fold.
Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of
the fabric. The upper looper thread is pulled tightly to the back of the
stitch. The left needle thread may be pulled to the back of the stitch.
Trim, label, and mount the sample.
Lower Looper - Decreased Tension
Change the lower looper thread tension lever to 2 to decrease the
tension on the looper thread.
Serge the second piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of
the fabric. The lower looper thread is visible on the face of the fabric.
The looper threads are very loose.
Label, trim, and mount the sample. Return the thread tension levers
to normal.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
12
®
©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Adjusting Tensions Samples
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
13
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Adjusting Tensions, continued
Upper Looper - Increased Tension
Adjust the upper looper thread tension lever to 7 to increase the
tension on the looper thread.
Notes
Serge the third piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge
of the fabric. The lower looper thread is pulled tightly to the front
of the stitch.
Label, trim, and mount the sample.
Upper Looper - Decreased Tension
Change the upper looper thread tension lever to 2 to decrease the
tension on the looper thread.
Serge the fourth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge
of the fabric. The upper looper thread is visible on the back of the
fabric. The looper threads are very loose.
Label, trim, and mount the sample.
Return the thread tension levers to normal.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
14
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Adjusting Tensions Samples
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
15
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
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BERNINA®
Sergers
Adjusting Tensions, continued
Right Needle - Decreased Tension
Adjust the right needle thread tension lever to 2 (down) to decrease
the tension on the needle thread.
Notes
Serge the fifth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
Examine the sample. The needle thread forms large loops on the
back of the fabric.
Label, trim, and mount the sample.
Left Needle - Decreased Tension
Adjust the left needle thread tension lever to 2 to decrease the tension
on the needle thread.
Serge the sixth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
Examine the sample. The needle thread forms large loops on the back
of the fabric.
Label, trim, and mount the sample.
Both Needles - Increased Tension
Adjust both the left and right needle thread tension levers to 7 to
increase the tension on the needle threads.
Fold the piece of lightweight woven cotton fabric to 1½” x 4”.
Serge the folded fabric, cutting off the fold.
Examine the sample. The lower looper thread is pulled to the front
of the sample and the stitch is puckering the fabric.
Label, trim, and mount the sample.
Return both needle thread tension levers to normal.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
16
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
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BERNINA®
Sergers
Adjusting Tensions Samples
increased left & right needle tensions
decreased right needle tension
decreased left needle tension
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
17
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Stitch Length Adjustment
Fabric .......................................................................... firm fabric, 6” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ............................................................... 4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Fold fabric in half to 3” x 6”.
Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric into four equal sections along the
folded edge.
Thread the serger for a four thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the
settings as needed. Set the cutting width and the differential at their
normal settings.
Adjust the stitch length to 4mm. Serge to the first mark along the
folded edge, trimming the fold slightly.
Adjust the stitch length to 3mm and serge to the second mark.
Adjust the stitch length to 2mm and serge to the third mark.
Adjust the stitch length to 1mm and serge to the end.
Mark the stitch length settings on the fabric sample.
Trim and mount the sample.
Return stitch length to its normal setting, 2.5mm.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
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BERNINA®
Sergers
Stitch Length Adjustment Sample
4mm
3mm
2mm
1mm
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
19
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Cutting Width Adjustment
Fabric .......................................................................... firm fabric, 6” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ............................................................... 4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.
Divide and mark the fabric into three equal sections along the folded
edge.
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the tensions
for a balanced overlock stitch (3-5).
Rotate the upper knife up. Adjust cutting width to 3. Rotate the upper
knife down into cutting position.
Serge to the first mark on the fabric, stopping when the knife edge
is on the mark.
Adjust cutting width to 2mm and serge to the second mark.
Adjust the cutting width to 1mm and serge to the end of the fabric.
Mark the cutting width settings on the sample.
Rotate the upper knife up. Return the cutting width to its normal setting,
2mm. Rotate the upper knife down into cutting position.
Compare the cutting width sample to the balanced 4-thread sample
to see how cutting width affects the balance of the overlock stitch.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
20
®
©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Cutting Width Adjustment Sample
3mm
2mm
1mm
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
21
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
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Mastering
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BERNINA®
Sergers
Differential Feed:
Fabrics that Stretch
Fabric .................................... 3 pieces of ribbing, each 5” wide x 2” long
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ............................................................... 4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the tensions
for a balanced overlock stitch. Set the cutting width as needed and set
the stitch length to 2.5mm.
With differential set at N, serge two of the ribbing pieces together along
one 5” edge. If the fabric is stretchy enough you will have a wavy edge.
Adjust the differential to 2.0.
Stitching along the 5” side, serge the remaining ribbing to the other
side of the piece, trimming slightly. With differential at a higher setting,
the wavy edge should be eliminated.
Mark the differential settings on the fabric sample.
Compare the seams to see how the differential settings can affect
stretching.
Trim and
c mount the sample.
Return the differential feed setting to N (normal).
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
22
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Differential Feed: Fabrics that Stretch Sample
N
2.0
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
23
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Differential Feed:
Fabrics that Pucker
Fabric ................................................................... 1 piece batiste, 3” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ............................................................... 4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a four thread overlock stitch. Fine tune tensions for
a balanced overlock stitch. Adjust the stitch length to 2.5mm.
With differential set at N, serge on one 6” edge. If fabric is lightweight
enough you will have a puckered edge.
Adjust the differential to 0.7.
Serge along the other edge, trimming slightly. With a low differential
setting, the puckered edge should be eliminated.
Mark the differential settings on the fabric sample.
Trim and mount the sample.
Return the differential feed setting to N (normal).
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
24
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Differential Feed: Fabrics that Pucker Sample
N
0.7
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch SelectionLever ................... MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
25
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Differential Feed:
Gathering & Easing
Fabric ..................................................... medium weight cotton, 3” x 12”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ............................................................... 4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Using a fabric marker divide the fabric into 3 equal sections along the
12” side.
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the tensions
for a balanced overlock stitch.
Turn the differential feed dial to 2. Serge to the first mark.
Adjust stitch length to 4mm and serge to the second mark.
Move the thread tension levers up to 8 to increase the needle thread
tensions. Serge to the end of the fabric.
Return the differential feed to “N” (normal).
Return the stitch length to 2.5 (normal).
Move the thread tension levers to return tensions to normal (3-5).
Mark the sample:
Differential Feed 2
Differential Feed 2 & Stitch Length 4
Differential Feed 2 & stitch length 4 & increased needle tension.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
26
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Differential Feed: Gathering & Easing Sample
Diff. Feed 2
Increased needle tensions
SL 4mm
Diff. Feed 2
SL 4mm
Diff. Feed 2
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
27
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Micro Thread Control - mtc
(for 1300MDC/1150MDA models only)
Fabric ....................................................... medium weight cotton, 6” x 8”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ............................................................... 4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Divide the fabric into 4 equal sections along the 8” side, finger press
creases into place.
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Set the tensions and
cutting width according to the manual for a balanced overlock stitch.
Set the mtc lever to the maximum setting, serge on the first fold.
Move the mtc lever to the normal setting, serge on the second fold.
Move the mtc lever to the minimum setting, serge on the third fold.
Mark the sample:
mtc - maximum - mtc - normal - mtc - minimum - Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
28
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Micro Thread Control - mtc - Sample
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
29
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Securing Serged Seams
Fabric ....................................................... medium weight cotton, 4” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ............................................................... 4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Fine tune the tensions
for a balanced overlock stitch.
Fold fabric in half to 2” x “6” and place under the presser foot. Note:
If you are using a Wavy Rotary Cutter or Pinking Shears to trim the
samples, do all trimming before beginning to sew this sample.
Take 2-3 stitches on the fabric. Lower the needles into the fabric.
Raise the presser foot and with your left hand gently pull the thread chain
around the needles to the knife.
Lower the presser foot and continue serging (cutting off the excess
thread chain) until you are one stitch off the end of the fabric.
Locate the Stitch Selection lever on the right side of the cloth plate; pull
it towards you, releasing the thread chain from the stitch tongue.
Raise the presser foot and carefully flip the fabric over so that the
lower looper side of the previously serged seam will be overstitched.
Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the first stitch will
enter the fabric when you begin stitching.
Slide the Stitch Selection lever towards the body of the serger.
Serge for about 1”, overstitching the previous stitching. Guide the fabric
so as not to cut the previous stitching. Option: Rotate upper knife up.
Raise the toe of the presser foot and rotate the fabric 90° clockwise.
Serge off the edge of the fabric.
If the upper knife is up, rotate it down into the cutting position.
Trim and mount the sample
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
30
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Securing Serged Seams Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
31
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Serging a Tube
Fabric ..................................................... medium weight cotton, 3” x 12”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ............................................................... 4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch.
With right sides together, seam the fabric into a tube along the 3” side.
Press the seam to one side. (The upper looper thread is the right side
of the seam.)
On one 12” side of the tube, cut away a 2” x ¼” section of fabric.
Lower the presser foot and serge around the tube, cutting off ¼”.
Stop serging when the knife enters the cutout; rotate the knife up.
Continue serging to complete the circle, overlapping the previous stitching by 1”.
Raise the presser foot and rotate the fabric clockwise.
Lower the presser foot and serge off the edge of the fabric.
Return the knife to the normal cutting position.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
32
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Serging a Tube Sample
cut out
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
33
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Class 1
General Information
Product Reference List
Feet-ures, Volume 2 (Unit M)
Feet-ures, Volume 3 (Unit P)
Serger Technique Reference Book
Carrying Case
Serger Cone Thread (Mettler Metrocor, YLI Success)
color________
color________
color________
color________
Needles
size____ and type___
size____ and type____
size____ and type____
size____ and type____
Seam Sealant
Fabric Marking Pen
Rotary Cutter
Wavy Cutting Blade
Clear Quilters’ Ruler
Cutting Mat
Fabric Glue Stick
Large Eye Tapestry/Darning Needles
Vacuum Cleaner Attachment
1” Wide Cosmetic Brush or Mini-Duster
BERNINA® Thread Storage Box (clear)
BERNINA® Deluxe Accessory Box
Bernette® IS 60 Professional Iron
Standard Serger Foot with Tape Guide
Serger Needle/Looper Threader
Waste Collector
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
34
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Class 2
Four Thread Techniques
Class Overview
General Construction Seaming
1 4-Thread Overlock Seam
Serging Knits
2 Seaming Knit Fabrics: Presser Foot Pressure
3 Seaming Knit Fabrics: Differential Feed
4 Seaming Knit Fabrics: Presser Foot Tape Guide
5 Attaching Ribbing
Serging Wovens
6 Serger Piecing
7 Reversible Piecing
Using Optional Accessories: Elasticator & Gathering Attachment
8 Elasticator
9 Gathering Attachment: Gathering Fabric
10 Gathering Attachment: Gathering Fabric to Fabric
11 Gathering Attachment: with Elasticator
Optional Presser Feet & Accessories (used in this unit)
Standard Presser Foot with Tape Guide
Holds narrow twill tape, elastic, and ribbon to be serged into seam
Elasticator
For attaching elastic from 5mm -12mm (¼” to ½”) wide.
Attachment Base (700D and 800DL only)
Needed to attach some accessories to serger
This class is formatted for owners of
Seam Guides
the following models of BERNINA®
Right Seam Guide
overlock machines:
Multi-Purpose Foot Guide
• 700D
Gathering Attachment or Foot
• 800DL
For gathering one layer, or gathering to a flat piece
• 1150MDA
• 1300MDC
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
35
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4-Thread Overlock Seam
Fabric ....................................................... medium weight cotton, 5” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ............................................................... 4 cones of serger thread
.......................................................................... (yellow, red, green, blue)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Adjust settings as
indicated. Fine tune as needed.
Locate the seam guide markings on the knife guard. Measurements
shown are distances from the right needle. When using the left needle,
add 1/8” to measurements.
Tip: Use a permanent marker to highlight the raised markings; this is
particularly useful for those with “mature” eyesight.
Fold fabric in half to 2½” x 6”.
Align the fold of the fabric with the ½” mark on the knife guard (the left
needle is being used). Serge the seam, cutting off exactly 3/8”.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
36
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4-Thread Overlock Seam Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
37
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Seaming Knit Fabrics:
Presser Foot Pressure
Fabric .................................................. 2 pieces cotton single knit jersey,
................................................... each 3” x 6” with stretch across 3” side
Needle .............................................................. 75/11 Stretch or Ballpoint
Thread ............................................... 2 cones of serger thread (needles)
......................................................... 2 cones YLI Woolly Nylon (loopers)
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch, using regular serger
thread in the needles and Woolly Nylon in the loopers.
Set all thread tensions at usual 4-thread overlock settings.
Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric in half along a 6” side.
With right sides together and a ¼” seam allowance, serge to the mark on
the fabric.
Without removing the fabric from under the presser foot, notice the
“ripple” effect where the fabric has stretched.
Reduce the presser foot pressure to low.
Seam the jersey to the end of the fabric.
Remove the fabric from under the presser foot and observe the decreased “rippling”.
Return the presser foot pressure adjusting lever its normal setting.
Trim and mount the sample.
Record settings in chart below:
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
38
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Seaming Knits: Presser Foot Pressure Sample
L
N
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
39
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Seaming Knit Fabrics:
Differential Feed
Fabric .................................................. 2 pieces cotton single knit jersey,
................................................... each 3” x 6” with stretch across 3” side
Needle .............................................................. 75/11 Stretch or Ballpoint
Thread ............................................................... 2 cones of serger thread
........................................................................ 2 cones YLI Woolly Nylon
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch, using regular serger
thread in the needles and Woolly Nylon in the loopers.
Set all thread tensions at usual 4-thread overlock settings.
Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric in half along a 6” side.
With right sides together and a ¼” seam allowance, serge to the mark on
the fabric.
Without removing the fabric from under the presser foot, notice the
“ripple” effect where the fabric has stretched.
Locate the differential feed dial on the serger. Adjust to 1.5.
Seam the jersey to the end of the fabric.
Remove the fabric from under the presser foot and observe the
decreased “rippling”.
Return the differential feed dial to normal setting (N).
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
40
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Seaming Knit Fabrics: Differential Feed Sample
1.5
N
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
41
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Seaming Knit Fabrics:
Presser Foot Tape Guide
Fabric .................................................. 2 pieces cotton single knit jersey,
................................................... each 3” x 6” with stretch across 3” side
............................................................ 8” length of ¼” twill tape or ribbon
Needle .............................................................. 75/11 Stretch or Ballpoint
Thread ............................................................... 2 cones of serger thread
........................................................................ 2 cones YLI Woolly Nylon
Presser Foot ........................................... Standard Foot with Tape Guide
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Adjust tension settings
for a balanced 4-thread overlock.
Locate the tape guide on the presser foot.
Using the small screwdriver from the accessory pouch, loosen the fixing
screw and slide the tape guide all the way to the left. Snug the screw.
Slip the twill tape or ribbon into the slot on the presser foot.
Lower the presser foot and lower the needles into the tape or ribbon.
Loosen the fixing screw and adjust the tape guide to the width of the
tape or ribbon. Retighten the screw.
Seam the jersey together along the 6” side, catching the tape or ribbon
in the serged edge.
Remove the fabric from under the presser foot and examine the seam. It
will not stretch. The tape or ribbon has stabilized the seam.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
42
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Seaming Knits: Presser Foot Tape Guide Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
43
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Attaching Ribbing
Fabric ............................................................... sweatshirt fleece, 4” x 6”
....................................................................... ribbing, 6” wide x 2½” long
Needle .............................................................. 75/11 Stretch or Ballpoint
Thread ............................................................... 2 cones of serger thread
........................................................................ 2 cones YLI Woolly Nylon
Presser Foot ........................................... Standard Foot with Tape Guide
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch using Woolly Nylon
in both loopers. Set tensions for a balanced 4-thread overlock.
Cut a mock neckline on the corner of the fleece (quarter circle).
Fold the ribbing in half (wrong sides together) to 1¾” x 6”.
Matching raw edges, place the ribbing to the neckline on the right
side of the fleece.
Serge the ribbing to the fleece, stretching the ribbing to meet the
fleece neckline.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
44
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Attaching Ribbing Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
45
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Serger Piecing
Fabric ............................. 3 strips medium weight cotton 1 3/4” x 4” each
.............................................. 3 strips contrasting cotton, 13/4” x 4” each
Needle .............................................. 80/12 Universal, Sharp, or Microtex
Thread ................................................................... 4 cones serger thread
........................................................................ 2 cones YLI Woolly Nylon
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch, with regular serger
thread in the needles and the loopers. Set all tensions for a balanced
4-thread overlock.
Create two strip sets, each with three alternating strips of fabric.
Strip #1 is light-dark-light; strip #2 is dark-light-dark. Serge strips
together without trimming any fabric. Press seam allowances toward
dark strips.
Using a rotary cutter, mat and ruler, cut the strip sets into 1¾” block sets.
Use 1 block set from the light/dark/light strip set and 2 block sets from
the dark/light/dark strip set. Discard the excess fabric.
Serge 1 dark/light/dark strip to the light/dark/light strip, matching seam
allowances. The opposing seams will “nest” into each other.
Serge the remaining dark/light/dark strip to the light/dark/light strip.
Press the seam allowances to the dark/light/dark strips.
Trim thread tails and mount the sample on the following page.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
46
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Serger Piecing Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
47
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Reversible Piecing
Fabric ......................................................... 3 pieces cotton prints, 2” x 4”
.................................................................... 1 piece cotton print, 2” x 5½”
.............................................................................3 pieces muslin, 2” x 4”
........................................................................... 1 piece muslin, 2” x 5½”
............................................................................ 3 pieces batting, 2” x 4”
........................................................................... 1 piece batting, 2” x 5½”
Needle .............................................. 80/12 Universal, Sharp, or Microtex
Thread ................................................................... 4 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ...............................................................................standard
Stitch ............................................................................. 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Set all tensions for a
balanced 4-thread overlock.
Optional: Increase the presser foot pressure for thick fabrics.
Create a quilt sandwich, layering the 4” fabrics as follows: 2 layers of
muslin (right sides together), one layer of batting, 2 layers of printed
fabric (right sides together) and a layer of batting on top.
Raise the presser foot and position the fabrics under it with the right
edges of the fabric and batting even with the left edge of the knife.
Serge the 6 layers together, stopping as necessary to keep the right
edges of the fabrics even. Open the layers (1 muslin, 1 quilt top, 1
batting) to the right and left of the serged seam and press.
To serge the third section into place, layer the remaining 4” fabrics as
follows: muslin to muslin, right sides together; print to print, right sides
together; batting on top.
Serge through all 6 layers. Open the last 3 layers; press.
Add the last section to the top edge of the 3-paneled quilt. Layer the 5½”
fabrics as follows: muslin to muslin, right sides together; print to print,
right sides together; batting on top.
Serge, open the layers to the top of the square, and press.
Trim and mount the sample on the following page.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
48
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Mastering
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BERNINA®
Sergers
Reversible Piecing Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
49
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Elasticator
Fabric ....................................................... mediumweight cotton, 3” x 12”
............................................ 12” length of ½” nylon or cotton braid elastic
Needle ............................................................... 75/11 Stretch or Ballpoint
Thread ................................................................... 2 cones serger thread
......................................................................... 2 cones YLI Woolly Nylon
Presser Foot ............................................................................ Elasticator
Stitch ............................................................................. 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Set tensions for a
balanced stitch. Attach the Elasticator to the serger.
Adjust stitch length to 4mm.
Increase the presser foot pressure.
Locate and raise the roller guide in the front of the presser foot. Turn the
handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed dog.) Raise
the presser foot and insert the elastic through the slot and under the
presser foot until it touches the needles.
Lower the presser foot and serge a few stitches to catch and straighten
the elastic along the right edge of the slot. Turn the handwheel to lower
the needles.
Lower the roller guide. Using the small screwdriver, adjust the guide
plate on the presser foot to the width of the elastic.
Locate the pressure adjustment set screw (on the top of the roller guide)
and turn the screw counterclockwise to completely loosen the pressure
on the roller.
Place the fabric under the presser foot and begin serging. Slowly tighten
the pressure adjustment set screw to increase the pressure on the roller
and stretch the elastic. Note: Do not over tighten the screw. Excessive
pressure on the elastic will bind the fabric. Serge the elastic onto the
fabric letting the presser foot stretch the elastic for you.
Trim and mount the sample.
Return all settings to normal.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Elasticator Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch SelectionLever ................... MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
51
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Gathering Attachment:
Gathering Fabric
Fabric ....................................................... mediumweight cotton, 3” x 12”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 4 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ...............................................................................standard
Other ...................................................................... Gathering Attachment
Stitch ............................................................................. 4-thread overlock
Notes
If necessary, install the attachment base on your serger (700D and
800DL only).
Raise the cutting knife and adjust cutting width to 3mm. Slip Gathering
Attachment on to the fixing screw and metal post directly behind the
fixing screw. Hint: Place the horseshoe-shaped slot over the screw, then
rotate the attachment to lock over the metal post. Tighten fixing screw.
Set cutting width at 2mm (normal) and lower the upper knife into cutting
position. Locate and adjust the differential feed dial to 2. Using a fabric
marker, divide fabric into 3 sections along one 12” edge.
Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed
dog.) Raise the presser foot and insert the fabric under the Gathering
Attachment, up against the needles. The fabric is lying against the stitch
plate.
Lower the presser foot and serge to the first mark.
Adjust the stitch length to 4mm and serge to the second mark.
Increase the tension on both needles to 7. Serge to the end of the fabric.
Mark the sample: with Differential Feed; with Differential Feed & SL4;
with Differential Feed, SL4 and tightened needle tensions.
Mount the sample on the following page.
Gathers Plus
For even more gathers,
tighten needle tensions
slightly and increase stitch
length to 4mm.
Return all settings to normal.
The attachment base can remain on the machine.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
52
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Sergers
Gathering Attachment: Gathering Fabric Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selectiton Lever ................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
53
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Sergers
Gathering Attachment:
Gathering Fabric to Fabric
Fabric ....................................................... mediumweight cotton, 3” x 14”
................................................................... mediumweight cotton, 3” x 8”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 4 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ...............................................................................standard
Other ...................................................................... Gathering Attachment
Stitch ............................................................................. 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Set tensions for a
balanced 4-thread overlock.
Raise cutting knife and adjust cutting width to 3mm. Slip the Gathering
Attachment on to the fixing screw and metal post directly behind the
fixing screw. Hint: attach the horseshoe-shaped slot over the screw and
then rotate the attachment to lock over the metal post. Tighten the fixing
screw.
Return cutting width to 2mm (normal) and lower the upper knife into
cutting position.
Adjust the differential feed dial to 2.
Raise the presser foot and insert the 14” strip of fabric (right side up)
under the Gathering Attachment. The fabric is lying next to the stitch
plate. Lower presser foot. Sew several stitches until the fabric is under
the needles.
Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed
dog.) Place the 8” strip of fabric (right side down) on top of the Gathering
Attachment and under the presser foot with the end of the 8” strip touching the needles.
Serge the two strips together, the lower strip will gather as you sew.
Gathers Plus
Trim and mount the sample.
For even more gathers,
tighten needle tensions
slightly and increase stitch
length to 4mm.
Return all settings to normal.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
54
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Sergers
Gathering Attachment: Fabric to Fabric Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
55
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Gathering Attachment:
With Elasticator
Fabric ....................................................... mediumweight cotton, 3” x 18”
............................................ 12” length of ½” nylon or cotton braid elastic
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 4 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ............................................................................ Elasticator
Other ...................................................................... Gathering Attachment
Stitch ............................................................................. 4-thread overlock
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch. Set tensions for a
balanced 4-thread overlock.
Attach the Gathering Attachment to the serger.
Adjust the differential feed dial to 2.
Attach the Elasticator Foot. Raise the presser foot and insert the 18” strip
of fabric under the Gathering Attachment. Sew several stitches until the
fabric is under the needles.
Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed
dog.) Decrease the presser foot pressure.
Raise the roller guide and insert the elastic into the slot at the front of the
presser foot.
Lower the presser foot and take a few stitches into the elastic.
As you serge, slowly tighten the pressure adjustment set screw to
increase the pressure on the roller and stretch the elastic. Note: Do not
over tighten the screw. Excessive pressure on the elastic will bind the
fabric.
Serge the elastic onto the fabric letting the presser foot stretch the
elastic.
Trim and mount the sample.
Return all settings to normal.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
56
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Mastering
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Gathering Attachment: With Elasticator Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
57
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Mastering
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Class 2
Four-Thread Overlock Techniques
Product Reference List
Feet-ures, Volume 2 (Unit M)
Feet-ures, Volume 3 (Unit P)
Serger Technique Reference Book
Serger thread (Mettler Metrocor, YLI Elite)
color________
color________
color________
color________
Carrying Case
Standard Foot with Tape Guide
(700D and 800DL only)
Elasticator
Gathering Attachment or Foot
Attachment Base (700D and 800DL only)
Woolly Nylon texturized thread
color________
color________
color________
variegated________
variegated________
½” Nylon Elastic
½” Cotton Braid Elastic
½” Clear Elastic
¼ ” Twill Tape
¼ ” Ribbon
Needles
Stretch
size____
size____
Ballpoint
size____
size____
Sharp
size____
size____
Microtex
size____
size____
Universal
size____
size____
Wavy Cutting Blade
Clear Quilters’ Ruler
Cutting Mat
Fabric Glue Stick
Large Eye Tapestry/Darning Needles
Vacuum Cleaner Attachment
1” Wide Cosmetic Brush or Mini-Duster
BERNINA® Thread Storage Box (clear)
BERNINA® Deluxe Accessory Box
Bernette® IS 60 Professional Iron
Serger Needle/Looper Threader
Waste Collector
6” Ruler/Gauge
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
58
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Class 3
Three-Thread Techniques
Class Overview
3-Thread Overlock
1 Wide 3-Thread Overlock
2 Wide Overlock Seam Finish
3 Outside Corners
4 Narrow 3-Thread Overlock
5 Narrow Overlock Seam Finish
6 Inside Corners
7 3-Thread Narrow Seam
8 Turning Tubes
3-Thread Flatlock
9 Narrow 3-Thread Flatlock
10 Blindstitch Foot - Blind Hem
11 Blindstitch Foot Hand-Picked or Drapery Blind Hem
12 Blindstitch Foot - Decorative Tucks
13 Blindstitch Foot - Joining Lace to Lace
3-Thread Rolled Hem
14 3-Thread Rolled Hem
15 Cording Foot - Bias Ruffle
16 Cording Foot - Wire-Edged Fabric
Optional Presser Feet & Accessories (used in this unit)
Blindstitch Foot
Adjustable guide for aligning stitches
Cording Foot
Guides for small cord, wire, fishline
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
This class is formatted for owners of
the following models of BERNINA®
overlock machines:
• 700D
• 800DL
• 1150MDA
• 1300MDC
59
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Wide Three-Thread Overlock Seam
Fabric ........................................................... mediumweight wool, 5” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch .................................................................... wide 3-thread overlock
Notes
Using the small screwdriver and brush/needle insertion tool, remove
the right needle. Note: If necessary, insert left needle before removing
right needle.
Snug the needle set screw after removing the needle.
Following the diagrams in your owner’s manual, thread the serger
for a wide 3-thread overlock stitch.
Set all thread tensions as indicated for a balanced stitch.
Adjust cutting width to 2mm (normal).
Adjust stitch length to 2.5mm (normal).
Fold fabric in half to 2½” x 6”.
Serge along the folded edge of the fabric.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
60
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Wide Three-Thread Overlock Seam Sample
Balanced 3-Thread Overlock - Wide
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... n/a
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
61
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Wide Overlock Seam Finish
Fabric ................................ 2 pieces medium weight wool, 2½” x 5” each
.................................................. 2 strips bias cut tricot, ¾” x 5” (optional)
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch .................................................................... wide 3-thread overlock
Notes
Set serger for a wide 3-thread overlock stitch (left needle). Adjust all
settings for a balanced stitch.
Serge one 5” raw edge on each piece of fabric. Optional: For added
support, wrap the fabric edge with strips of bias cut tricot or water soluble
stabilizer before serging.
Using your BERNINA® sewing machine and a 5/8” seam allowance, seam
the two pieces of fabric together along the serged edges.
Press seam open.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
62
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BERNINA®
Sergers
Wide Overlock Seam Finish Sample
Fabric edge wrapped with strips of bias cut
tricot or water soluble stabilizer before serging.
Balanced 3-Thread Overlock - Wide
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... n/a
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
63
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Mastering
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Sergers
Outside Corners
Fabric .................................................... 2 pieces firm fabric, 4” x 5” each
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch .................................................................... wide 3-thread overlock
Notes
OPTION I
Serge one edge of the fabric, stitching off the end of the fabric. Trim the
thread tail.
Continue serging around the square, crossing over previous stitching.
Use a seam sealant on the untrimmed thread tails (or use a tapestry
needle to weave the thread tail back through the stitching). When the
seam sealant is dry, trim the thread tails.
OPTION II
Before serging, trim away the seam allowance (¼”) for about 2” on each
corner of the square.
Beginning at one trimmed corner, serge (cutting ¼” as you sew) to the
end of the fabric. Take one stitch off the end of the fabric.
Locate the rolled hem lever on the stitch plate and pull the white lever
towards you. This will free the thread from the stitch finger.
Lift the presser foot and carefully pivot the fabric 90° clockwise.
Return the rolled hem lever to normal (away from you).
Place the needle one stitch into the fabric and lower the presser foot.
Continue serging until you are one stitch off the next corner.
Repeat the turning procedure and continue serging.
Trim and mount the samples.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Mastering
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Outside Corners Samples
Balanced 3-Thread Overlock - Wide
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... n/a
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
65
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Narrow Three-Thread Overlock
Fabric .................................................................lightweight fabric, 5” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ................................................................ narrow 3-thread overlock
Notes
Using the small screwdriver and brush/needle insertion tool, loosen the
right needle screw and insert the right needle. Hint: Place the point of the
needle directly above the right needle space of the presser foot, then lift
the needle up to place the shank in the correct hole. Snug right needle
screw.
Remove the left needle. Snug the needle set screw after removing the
left needle.
Following the diagrams in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for a
narrow 3-thread overlock stitch. Adjust all settings for a balanced stitch.
Adjust cutting width to 2mm (normal).
Adjust stitch length to 2.5mm (normal).
Fold the fabric in half to 2½” x 6”.
Serge along the folded edge of the fabric.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
66
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Sergers
Narrow Three-Thread Overlock Sample
Balanced 3-Thread Overlock - Narrow
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. n/a
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
67
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Sergers
Narrow 3-Thread Overlock using mtc
(for 1300MDC/1150MDA models only)
Fabric ........................................................ medium weight cotton, 6” x 8”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ................................................................ narrow 3-thread overlock
Notes
Divide the fabric into 4 equal sections along the 8” side, finger press
creases into place.
Thread the serger for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch.
Set the tensions according to the manual for a balanced overlock stitch.
Set the Cutting Width to 4.
Set the mtc lever to the maximum setting, serge on the first fold.
Set the Cutting Width to 2.
Move the mtc lever to the minimum setting, serge on the second fold.
Change the serger settings for a 3-thread Narrow seam.
Set the Cutting Width to 1.
Move the mtc lever to the minimum setting, serge on the third fold.
Mark the sample with Cutting Width and mtc settings:
mtc - maximum/Cutting Width 4 - mtc - minimum/Cutting Width 2 - mtc - minimum/Cutting Width 1 - Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
68
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BERNINA®
Sergers
Narrow 3-Thread Overlock using mtc Sample
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
69
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Sergers
Inside Corners
Fabric .................................................... 2 pieces firm fabric, 3” x 4” each
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ................................................................ narrow 3-thread overlock
Notes
OPTION I
This technique works well for continuous plackets on sleeves and back
neck openings.
Cut an inside corner into the fabric. Snip into the corner ¼” (the width
of the stitching). Serge until the knife reaches the end of the cut.
Use the handwheel to lower the needle into the fabric. Lift the presser
foot and straighten the corner towards you. Lower the presser foot and
continue serging.
OPTION II
Rotate the upper knife up.
Cut an inside corner into the fabric. Line up the left edge of the cut with
the lower knife blade. Keep the edge of the fabric even with the lower
knife blade as you stitch.
Serge for a few stitches. Turn the handwheel to lower the needle into the
fabric. Fold the right side of the corner towards you at about a 45° angle.
Serge one stitch beyond the cut edge. Turn the handwheel to lower the
needle into the fabric.
Lift the presser foot. Fold the serged edge down and to the left, angling
the serged edge about 45°. Pivot the fabric until the raw edge is even
with the lower knife blade.
Lower the presser foot and continue stitching. Use the thread cutter to
cut the thread chain at the end of the seam. (the upper knife is still
disengaged).
Return the upper knife to cutting position.
Trim and mount samples.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
70
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Mastering
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Sergers
Inside Corners Samples
Balanced 3-Thread Overlock - Narrow
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. n/a
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
71
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Sergers
Three-Thread Narrow Seam
Fabric .................................................................................batiste, 5” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ..................................................................... 3-thread narrow seam
Notes
Following the diagrams in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for a
3-thread narrow seam (right needle). Adjust settings as indicated.
Adjust cutting width to 1.5mm.
Adjust stitch length to 1.75mm (normal).
Pull the Stitch Selection lever toward you (out from the machine).
Fold the fabric in half to 2½” x 6”.
Serge along the folded edge of the fabric.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Three-Thread Narrow Seam Sample
Balanced 3-Thread Narrow Seam
Upper Looper .............................. 4-6
Lower Looper .............................. 4-6
Left Needle .................................. n/a
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 1.5
Stitch Length .......................... 1.7mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
73
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Turning Tubes
Fabric ................................................................................... tricot, 2” x 6”
Needle .............................................................. 75/11 Stretch or Ballpoint
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ................................................................ narrow 3-thread overlock
Notes
Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch (right needle). Adjust
settings as indicated for a balanced stitch.
Adjust stitch length to 1.5mm.
Serge a thread chain several inches longer than the fabric.
Fold the fabric, right sides together, to 1” x 6” encasing the thread chain
against the fold.
With the folded edge aligned with the left edge of the presser foot, serge
the tube. Be careful not to catch the thread chain in the stitching.
After stitching the tube, gently pull on the thread chain and turn the tube
right side out.
Mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
74
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Mastering
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Turning Tubes Sample
Balanced 3-Thread Overlock - Narrow
Upper Looper .............................. 4-6
Lower Looper .............................. 4-6
Left Needle .................................. n/a
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 1.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
75
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Mastering
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BERNINA®
Sergers
Narrow Three-Thread Flatlock
Fabric ................................................................ sweatshirt fleece, 4” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 2 cones serger thread
............................................................................1 cone YLI Jeans Stitch
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ................................................................... narrow 3-thread flatlock
Notes
Set serger for a narrow 3-thread flatlock stitch with YLI Jeans Stitch in
the upper looper. Set thread tensions as directed in your owner’s
manual.
Adjust stitch length to 3mm. (If necessary, you can shorten the stitch
length slightly to fill in the stitch as you serge.)
Fold the fabric in half, wrong sides together, to 2” x 6”.
Optional: Attach the Right Seam Guide to the serger (700D and 800DL
will require the Attachment Base). Move the Right Seam Guide halfway
between the needle and the stitch finger.
Place the fold under the presser foot. Guide the fabric halfway between
the left needle and the right edge of the stitch finger (or against the Right
Seam Guide).
Slowly serge the fabric. The looper threads will extend beyond the fabric
on the right side of fold.
Gently pull the fabric flat
Return stitch length and thread tension levers to their normal settings.
Trim and mount the sample.
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Narrow Three-Thread Flatlock Sample
3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 7-9
Left Needle .................................. n/a
Right Needle ............................... 1-2
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length ............................. 3mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Blindstitch Foot - Blind Hem
Fabric ....................................................................... cotton jersey, 5” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ............................................................................ Blindstitch
Stitch ................................................................... narrow 3-thread flatlock
Notes
Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread flatlock stitch (right needle).
Set needle thread tensions as directed in the instruction leaflet for the
Blindstitch Foot.
Adjust the stitch length to 4mm.
Attach the Blindstitch Foot.
Following the instructions in the leaflet for the Blindstitch Foot, fold the
fabric for a 1½” blind hem and place the fabric under the foot. Adjust the
fabric guide so that the needle just catches the fold in the stitching.
Serge the hem, keeping the fold of the fabric against the guide.
Press the hem.
Trim and mount the sample.
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Blindstitch Foot - Blind Hem Sample
3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 7-9
Left Needle .................................. n/a
Right Needle ............................... 1-2
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length ............................. 3mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Blindstitch Foot Hand-Picked or Drapery Blind Hem
Fabric .......................................................... mediumweight fabric, 5” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ............................................................................ Blindstitch
Stitch ................................................................... narrow 3-thread flatlock
Notes
Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread flatlock stitch (right needle). Set
needle thread tension levers as directed in the instruction leaflet for the
Blindstitch Foot.
Adjust the stitch length to 3.5mm.
Attach the Blindstitch Foot.
Turn up a double folded 1” hem. Fold the remaining fabric under so that
no fabric extends beyond the upper edge of the hem.
Place the fabric under the presser foot. The fold of the fabric should rest
against the guide. Adjust the fabric guide so that the needle just catches
the fold in the stitching.
Serge the hem, keeping the fold of the fabric against the guide.
Press the hem.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Hand-Picked or Drapery Blind Hem Sample
3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 7-9
Left Needle .................................. n/a
Right Needle ............................... 1-2
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length ............................. 3mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Blindstitch Foot Decorative Tucks
Fabric .................................................................................batiste, 5” x 6”
Needle ................................................................ 70/10 Sharp or Microtex
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ............................................................................ Blindstitch
Stitch ................................................................ narrow 3-thread overlock
Notes
Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch (right needle). Adjust
settings as indicated.
Pull the Stitch Selection lever towards you.
Adjust the stitch length to 1.5mm.
Attach the Blindstitch Foot.
Move the fabric guide just to the left of the knife line on the stitch plate.
Stiffen the batiste with spray starch or fabric stiffener.
Mark three lines 1” apart across the fabric.
Fold the fabric wrong sides together along one marked line and place
the fabric under the presser foot with the fold against the guide.
Serge the tuck; repeat for the two remaining marked lines.
Return the rolled hem lever to the normal serging position.
Trim and mount the sample.
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Blindstitch Foot - Decorative Tucks Sample
3-Thread Overlock - Narrow
Upper Looper .............................. 4-6
Lower Looper .............................. 4-6
Left Needle .................................. n/a
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 1.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Blindstitch Foot Joining Lace to Lace
Fabric .............................................. 2 pieces of flat edging lace, 6” each
Needle ................................................................ 70/10 Sharp or Microtex
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ............................................................................ Blindstitch
Stitch ................................................................ narrow 3-thread overlock
Notes
Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch (right needle). Adjust
settings as indicated.
Loosen the right needle tension slightly.
Pull the Stitch Selection lever towards you.
Adjust the stitch length to 1.5mm.
Attach the Blindstitch Foot.
Move the fabric guide just to the left of the knife line on the stitch plate.
Stiffen the lace with spray starch or fabric stiffener.
With right sides together, place the header of the laces under the
presser foot against the guide.
Serge the laces together.
Gently pull the lace flat and press.
Trim and mount the sample
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Blindstitch Foot - Joining Lace to Lace Sample
3-Thread Overlock - Narrow
Upper Looper .............................. 4-6
Lower Looper .............................. 4-6
Left Needle .................................. n/a
Right Needle ............................... 2-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 1.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
85
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Three-Thread Rolled Hem
Fabric .......................................................... mediumweight fabric, 3” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 2 cones serger thread
.......................................................................... 1 cone YLI Woolly Nylon
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ........................................................................ 3-thread rolled edge
Notes
Set the serger for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch (right needle) with
Woolly Nylon in the upper looper. Adjust settings as indicated in your
owner’s manual.
Pull the Stitch Selection lever towards you.
Adjust the stitch length to 1.75mm.
Set cutting width to 2 (normal).
Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one 6” edge.
Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal.
Return the rolled hem lever to normal sewing position.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Three-Thread Rolled Hem Sample
3-Thread Rolled Edge
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 7-9
Left Needle .................................. n/a
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length ........................ 1.75mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Cording Foot - Bias Ruffle
Fabric .....................................mediumweight fabric, 3” x 18”, cut on bias
........................................................... nylon fishing line, 15-20# test, 24”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 2 cones serger thread
.......................................................................... 1 cone YLI Woolly Nylon
Presser Foot ................................................................................ Cording
Stitch ........................................................................ 3-thread rolled edge
Notes
Set the serger for a 3-thread rolled edge (right needle) with Woolly Nylon
in the upper looper. Adjust settings as directed in your owner’s manual.
Pull the Stitch Selection lever towards you.
Adjust the stitch length to 1.75mm.
Set cutting width at 1.5.
Attach the Cording Foot.
Following the directions in the instruction leaflet for the Cording Foot,
insert the nylon fishing line through the guide.
Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one 18” edge
stretching the fabric edge as you sew.
Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal.
Return the rolled hem lever to normal sewing position.
Trim and mount the sample.
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Cording Foot - Bias Ruffle Sample
3-Thread Rolled Edge
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 7-9
Left Needle .................................. n/a
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length ........................ 1.75mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Cording Foot Wire-Edged Fabric
Fabric ........................................................ mediumweight fabric, 3” x 18”
Other .............................................. 28 gauge floral wire, two 24” lengths
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 2 cones serger thread
.......................................................................... 1 cone YLI Woolly Nylon
Presser Foot ................................................................................ Cording
Stitch ........................................................................ 3-thread rolled edge
Notes
Set the serger for a 3-thread rolled edge (right needle) with Woolly Nylon
in the upper looper. Adjust settings as indicated.
Pull the Stitch Selection lever towards you.
Adjust the stitch length to 1.75mm.
Set cutting width at 1.5.
Attach the Cording Foot. Following the direction in the instruction leaflet
for the Cording Foot, insert the wire through the guides.
Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one 18” edge,
feeding the wire through the foot as you serge.
Use wire cutters to cut the wire. Do not use the serger knives.
Repeat for the other 18” edge of the fabric.
Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal.
Return the rolled hem lever to normal sewing position.
Secure the thread tails with a seam sealant. When the sealant is dry, cut
the thread tails. Use wire cutters to trim the wire, if needed.
Tie the wired fabric into a bow.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Cording Foot - Wire-Edged Fabric Sample
3-Thread Rolled Edge
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 7-9
Left Needle .................................. n/a
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length ........................ 1.75mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Class 3
Three-Thread Techniques
Product Reference List
Serger thread (Mettler Metrocor, YLI Elite)
color________
color________
color________
color________
Feet-ures, Volume 2 (Unit M)
Feet-ures, Volume 3 (Unit P)
Serger Technique Reference Book
Carrying Case
Cording Foot
Right Seam Guide
Attachment Base (700D and 800DL only)
Seams Great bias cut tricot
½” Cotton Braid Elastic
½” Clear Elastic
¼ ” Twill Tape
¼ ” Ribbon
Wavy Cutting Blade
Clear Quilters’ Ruler
Cutting Mat
Large Eye Tapestry/Darning Needles
Vacuum Cleaner Attachment
1” Wide Cosmetic Brush or Mini-Duster
BERNINA® Thread Storage Box (clear)
BERNINA® Deluxe Accessory Box
Bernette® IS 60 Professional Iron
Serger Needle/Looper Threader
Waste Collector
6” Ruler/Gauge
Woolly Nylon texturized thread
color________
color________
color________
variegated________
YLI Jeans Stitch thread
color________
color________
color________
variegated________
Needles
Stretch
size____
size____
Ballpoint
size____
size____
Sharp
size____
size____
Microtex
size____
size____
Universal
size____
size____
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Class 4
Miscellaneous Techniques
Class Overview
Installing the Upper Looper Converter (2-Thread Adapter)
Specialty Stitches using Upper Looper Converter
1 3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch
2 3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch - Attaching Elastic
3 Wide 2-Thread Flatlock
4 Serging with Heavy Decorative Threads
5 2-Thread Rolled Hem
6 2-Thread Wrapped Edge
Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
7 Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide - Corded Piping
8 Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide - Creating & Attaching Corded Piping
9 Multi-Purpose Foot with the Gathering Attachment
10 Multi-Purpose Foot - Attaching Pre-Strung Beads
Optional Presser Feet & Accessories (used in this unit)
Upper Looper Converter
Optional accessory for the 700D for 2-thread stitch variations
Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
Two grooves for guiding cord, sequins, beads, etc.
Gathering Attachment or Foot
For gathering one layer, or gathering to a flat piece
Attachment Base (700D and 800DL only)
Needed to attach some accessories to serger
This class is formatted for owners of
Seam Guides
the following models of BERNINA®
Right Seam Guide
overlock machines:
Multi-Purpose Foot Guide
• 700D
• 800DL
• 1150MDA
• 1300MDC
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch
Fabric .......................................................... cotton or nylon Lycra, 5” x 6”
Needle .................................................... 80/12 Stretch or 75/11 Ballpoint
Thread ................................................................... 2 cones serger thread
.......................................................................... 1 cone YLI Woolly Nylon
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ..................................................................... 3-thread super stretch
Notes
Attach the Upper Looper Converter to the upper looper.
Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D.
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger
for a super stretch stitch using Woolly Nylon in the lower looper. Adjust
settings as indicated.
Adjust the stitch length to 2.5mm (normal).
Fold the Lycra in half to 2½” x 6”.
Place the fabric under the foot and serge, cutting off the fold.
Trim and mount the sample
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3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch Sample
3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch
Upper Looper .................... converter
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch Attaching Elastic
Fabric .......................................................... cotton or nylon Lycra, 3” x 6”
Other ....................................... 12” length of nylon or cotton elastic braid
Needle .................................................... 80/12 Stretch or 75/11 Ballpoint
Thread ................................................................... 2 cones serger thread
.......................................................................... 1 cone YLI Woolly Nylon
Presser Foot ........................................................................... Elasticator
Stitch ..................................................................... 3-thread super stretch
Notes
Attach the Upper Looper Converter to the upper looper.
Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D.
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual thread the serger for a
Super Stretch Stitch using Woolly Nylon in the lower looper.
Adjust the stitch length to 4mm.
Increase the presser foot pressure.
Attach the Elasticator Foot. Turn the pressure adjustment screw (on the
roller guide) clockwise to set pressure as desired.
Raise the roller guide and insert the elastic into the slot at the front of the
presser foot.
Place the fabric under the foot and serge, cutting off the fold.
Trim and mount the sample.
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Attaching Elastic Sample
3-Thread Super Stretch Stitch
Upper Looper .................... converter
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length ............................. 4mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Wide Two-Thread Flatlock
Fabric ......................................................... mediumweight cotton, 4” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ..................................................................... 1 cone serger thread
............................................................................1 cone YLI Jeans Stitch
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ...................................................................... wide 2-thread flatlock
Notes
Attach the Upper Looper Converter to the upper looper.
Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D.
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for a
2-thread flatlock stitch using Jeans Stitch in the lower looper. Adjust
settings as indicated.
Adjust the stitch length to 2.5mm.
Fold the fabric in half to 2” x 6” and position it halfway between the left
needle and the stitch finger. Optional: Attach the Right Seam Guide.
Move the Right Seam Guide halfway between the needle and the stitch
finger.
Slowly serge the fabric. The looper threads will extend beyond the fabric
on the right side of fold.
Gently pull the fabric flat
Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Wide Two-Thread Flatlock Sample
2-Thread Flatlock - Wide
Upper Looper .................... converter
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 1-2
Right Needle ............................... n/a
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
99
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Serging with
Heavy Decorative Threads
Fabric ................................. 3 pieces mediumweight cotton, 4” x 6” each
Needle ............................................................................. 90/14 Universal
Thread ..................................................................... 1 cone serger thread
................................................................ 1 cone YLI Pearl Crown Rayon
.............................................................................. 1 cone YLI Designer 6
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ...................................................................... wide 2-thread flatlock
Notes
Attach the Upper Looper Converter to the upper looper.
Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D.
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for a
wide 2-thread flatlock stitch using decorative thread in the lower looper.
Adjust settings as indicated.
Adjust the stitch length to 4mm. (If needed, you can slowly shorten the
stitch length as you serge to fill in the flatlock stitch).
Serge the sample. If the tension on the decorative thread is too tight,
decrease the looper tension and try again. If the thread tension on the
decorative thread is still too tight, remove the thread from the last thread
guide and try again.
Experiment with the suggested threads, adjusting thread tension and/or
bypassing thread guides as needed.
Press, trim, and mount the samples on the following page.
No Speeding!
To avoid uneven stitches,
tangled threads, hiccups, and
other imperfections, always
sew slowly when working with
decorative threads.
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Serging with Decorative Threads Sample
Pearl Crown Rayon
Candlelight
Designer 6
2-Thread Flatlock - Wide
Upper Looper .................... converter
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 1-2
Right Needle ............................... n/a
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length ............................. 4mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
101
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Two-Thread Flatlock using mtc
(for 1300MDC/1150MDA models only)
Fabric ............................................... medium weight cotton, 6” x 8” each
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ..................................................................... 1 cone serger thread
................................................... 1 cone Heavy weight decorative thread
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ...................................................................... wide 2-thread flatlock
Notes
Divide the fabric into 3 equal sections along the 8” side, finger press
creases into place.
Thread the serger for a Wide Two-Thread Flatlock stitch.
Use Heavy Decorative Thread in the lower looper and coordinating allpurpose serger thread in the needle.
Set the tensions according to the manual for a wide 2-thread flatlock
stitch.
Set the mtc lever to the minimum setting, serge on the first fold.
Pull the serged fabric from the left and right sides of the flatlocked band.
The stitched band will falttenm looking like a beautiful ribbon.
Move the mtc lever to the maximum setting, serge on the second fold.
Pull the seam flat as with the first stitch.
Compare the extra width provided by adjusting the mtc lever.
Mark the sample with mtc settings:
mtc - minimum mtc - maximum
Trim and mount the sample.
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Two-Thread Flatlock using mtc Sample
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Two-Thread Rolled Hem
Fabric .................................................................................batiste, 4” x 6”
Needle ................................................................ 70/10 Sharp or Microtex
Thread ................................................. 2 cones lightweight serger thread
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch .................................................. 2-thread rolled edge (right needle)
Notes
Attach the Upper Looper Converter to the upper looper.
Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D.
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger
for a 2-thread flatlock stitch. Adjust settings as directed.
Pull the Stitch Selection lever towards you.
Adjust the stitch length to 1.75mm.
Set cutting width at 2mm (normal).
Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one 6” edge,
trimming about 1/8” from the raw edge.
Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal.
Trim and mount the sample.
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BERNINA®
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Two-Thread Rolled Hem Sample
2-Thread Rolled Edge
Upper Looper .................... converter
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. n/a
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................1-1.5
Stitch Length ...................... 1-1.8mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Two-Thread Wrapped Edge
Fabric ................................................. heavy wool or polar fleece, 5” x 6”
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ..................................................................... 1 cone serger thread
............................................................................1 cone YLI Jeans Stitch
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch .......................... wide 2-thread wrapped edge (left or right needle)
Notes
Attach the Upper Looper Converter) to the upper looper.
Note: This is an optional accessory for the 700D.
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual’ thread the serger
for a 2-thread wrapped edge using Jeans Stitch in the lower looper.
Adjust settings as indicated.
Place the fabric under the presser foot and serge along one edge; adjust
the differential feed if needed.
If the Jeans Stitch does not wrap around the edge completely, the thread
tension may be too tight. Reduce the looper thread tension.
If the thread still does not wrap, remove the Jeans Stitch thread from the
uppermost thread guide and try again.
Wrap-stitch the other three edges of the fabric.
Use seam sealant to seal the stitching at the corners. When the
sealant is dry, trim the thread tails.
Return stitch length and thread tension levers to normal.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Two-Thread Wrapped Edge Sample
2-Thread Wrapped Edge - Wide
Upper Looper .................... converter
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... n/a
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 2.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide Corded Piping
Fabric ..........................................mediumweight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8”
Other .................................................... 12” length of 3/8” cotton filler cord
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 4 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ............................................ Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger
for a 4-thread overlock stitch using both needles.
Adjust all settings for a balanced stitch.
Set stitch length to 3.5mm.
Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot and Guide following the directions in the
instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide.
Note: 700D and 800DL also need the Attachment Base.
Insert the filler cord into the guide.
Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in the
groove under the foot.
Serge the covered cord.
Mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Multi-Purpose Foot - Corded Piping Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length .......................... 3.5mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide Creating & Attaching Corded Piping
Fabric ..........................................mediumweight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8”
................................................................... mediumweight cotton, 3” x 8”
Other .................................................... 12” length of 3/8” cotton filler cord
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 4 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ............................................ Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger
for a 4-thread overlock stitch using both needles.
Adjust settings for a balanced stitch.
Set stitch length to 3mm.
Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot and Guide following the directions in the
instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide.
Note: 700D and 800DL also need the Attachment Base.
Place the 3” x 8” fabric under the foot.
Insert the cord into the guide.
Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in the
groove under the foot and on top of the other fabric.
Serge, making the covered cord and attaching it to the fabric strip in one
stitching.
Press the seam allowance to the wrong side of the fabric strip.
Mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide Creating & Attaching Corded Piping Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length ............................. 3mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Multi-Purpose Foot with
the Gathering Attachment
Fabric ..........................................mediumweight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8”
................................................................. mediumweight cotton, 3” x 18”
Other .................................................... 12” length of 3/8” cotton filler cord
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 4 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ............................................ Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
Other ..................................................................... Gathering Attachment
Stitch ............................................................................ 4-thread overlock
Notes
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger
for a 4-thread overlock stitch using both needles.
Adjust settings for a balanced stitch.
Set stitch length to 3mm.
Adjust differential feed to 2.
Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot (no guide), following the directions in the
instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide.
Attach the Gathering Attachment following the directions in the instruction leaflet.
Note: 700D and 800DL also need the Attachment Base.
Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in the
groove under the foot.
Take 2 or 3 stitches into the fabric and lower the needles into the fabric.
Place the 3” x 18” fabric under the Gathering Attachment and next to the
needles.
Serge, covering the cord, gathering the fabric strip and seaming all
layers together.
Mount the sample on the following page.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Multi-Purpose Foot with
the Gathering Attachment Sample
Balanced 4-Thread Overlock
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 3-5
Left Needle .................................. 3-5
Right Needle ............................... 3-5
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length ............................. 3mm
Differential Feed ............................. 2
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Multi-Purpose Foot Attaching Pre-Strung Beads
Fabric .................................................................... mediumweight, 4” x 8”
Other ................................. 10” length of 4mm, plastic, pre-strung beads
Needle ............................................................................. 80/12 Universal
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ............................................ Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
Stitch ............................................ narrow 3-thread flatlock (right needle)
Notes
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger
for a narrow 3-thread flatlock stitch using the right needle.
Adjust settings as indicated.
Set stitch length to 4mm.
Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot (no guide), following the directions in the
instruction leaflet for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide.
Lay the pre-strung beads in the groove on the top of the foot, threading
them under the back groove (see instruction leaflet for the Multi-Purpose
Foot with Guide). Turn the handwheel to encase the first beads inside
the thread chain.
Fold the fabric in half to 2” x 6” and place the fabric under the foot with
the fold halfway between the needle and the stitch finger or against the
right seam guide.
Slowly flatlock the beads to the folded fabric.
Gently pull the fabric flat.
Mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Multi-Purpose Foot Attaching Pre-Strung Beads Sample
3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow
Upper Looper .............................. 3-5
Lower Looper .............................. 7-9
Left Needle .................................. n/a
Right Needle ............................... 1-2
Cutting Width ............................... 2-3
Stitch Length ............................. 4mm
Differential Feed ............................ N
Stitch Selection Lever .................. MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Class 4
Miscellaneous Techniques
Product Reference List
Feet-ures, Volume 2 (Unit M)
Feet-ures, Volume 3 (Unit P)
Serger Technique Reference Book
Serger thread (Mettler Metrocor, YLI Elite)
color________
color________
Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide
Elasticator
Right Seam Guide
Attachment Base (700D and 800DL only)
Upper Looper Converter (700D only)
Woolly Nylon texturized thread
color________
variegated________
Isacord embroidery thread
color________
color________
Pearls-by-the-Yard (3mm-4mm)
Seam Sealant
Wavy Cutting Blade
Clear Quilters’ Ruler
Cutting Mat
Bernette® IS 60 Professional Iron
Large Eye Tapestry/Darning Needles
Vacuum Cleaner Attachment
1” Wide Cosmetic Brush or Mini-Duster
Carrying Case
BERNINA® Thread Storage Box (clear)
BERNINA® Deluxe Accessory Box
Serger Needle/Looper Threader
Waste Collector
6” Ruler/Gauge
YLI Jeans Stitch thread
color________
variegated________
YLI Pearl Crown Rayon
color________
variegated________
YLI Designer 6
color________
color________
YLI Candlelight
color________
color________
Stretch Needles size____
Ballpoint Needles size____
Sharp Needles size____
Microtex Needles size____
Stretch Needles size____
Universal Needles size____
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Class 5
Cover & Chain
Class Overview
Conversion to Cover/Chain Stitch (1300MDC only)
Cover Stitch Techniques
1 Cover Stitch - 3 needle (1300MDC only)
2 Cover Stitch - 2-needle wide
3 Mock Flat Felled Seam
4 Cover Stitch Hem - Woven Fabric
5 Cover Stitch Hem - Knit Fabric
6 Attaching Lace
Chain Stitch Techniques
7 Chain Stitch Seam
8 Attaching Binding
9 Decorative Chain Stitch
10 4-Thread Combination Stitch (1300MDC only)
11 5-Thread Combination Stitch (1300MDC only)
Optional Presser Feet & Accessories (used in this unit)
Cover Stitch Foot
Two “floating” toes for ease in stitching uneven layers
JLx2 needles
These needles can help perfect the cover stitch when working with
heavy weight fabrics or noticing skipped stitches.
This class is formatted for owners of
the following models of BERNINA®
overlock machines:
• 1300MDC
• 009DCC
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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3-needle Wide Cover Stitch
(1300MDC only)
Fabric ........................................................................... firm fabric, 3” x 6”
Needle ...................................................................... 80/12 Sharp or JLx2
Thread ................................................................... 4 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ..................................................... standard or Cover Stitch
Stitch ...................................................................... 3-needle cover stitch
Notes
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for
cover stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path
on the serger.
Center the fabric under the presser foot. Lift the presser foot and place
the fabric completely under the foot.
Turn the handwheel clockwise for the first stitch.
Serge to the end of the fabric.
At the end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise until the
needles are at their lowest position. Then turn the handwheel clockwise
until the needles are at their highest position to release the threads from
the looper.
Raise the presser foot and carefully remove the work.
Cut the thread using the thread cutter.
Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the stitch graphic
in your owner’s manual. Read the tension adjustment information in your
owner’s manual for information about stitch formation and irregularities.
Adjust settings as necessary; stitch a second row of cover stitch.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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3-needle Cover Stitch Sample
Three Needle Cover Stitch - Wide
009DCC
N/A ...................................
N/A ...................................
N/A ...................................
N/A ...................................
N/A ...................................
1300MDC
Left Needle.................. 3.2
Center Needle ............. 4.0
Right Needle ............... 5.0
Chain Looper ................ M
Stitch Length ......... 3.5mm
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Wide 2-needle Cover Stitch
Fabric ........................................................................... firm fabric, 3” x 6”
Needle ..................................................................... 80/12 Sharp or JLx2l
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ..................................................... standard or Cover Stitch
Stitch .............................................................. wide 2-needle cover stitch
Notes
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for
cover stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path
on the serger.
Center the fabric under the presser foot. Lift the presser foot and place
the fabric completely under the foot.
Turn the handwheel clockwise for the first stitch.
Serge to the end of the fabric.
At the end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise until the
needles are at their lowest position. Then turn the handwheel clockwise
until the needles are at their highest position to release the threads from
the looper.
Raise the presser foot and carefully remove the work.
Cut the thread using the thread cutter.
Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the stitch graphic
in your owner’s manual. Read the tension adjustment information in your
owner’s manual for information about stitch formation and irregularities.
Adjust settings as necessary; stitch a second row of cover stitch.
Trim and mount the sample.
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Wide 2-needle Cover Stitch Sample
Two Needle Cover Stitch - Wide
009DCC
Left Needle .................. 3-5
Right Needle ............... 3-5
Looper ........................... M
Stitch Length ............ 3mm
1300MDC
Left Needle .................. 3.2
Right Needle ............... 5.0
Chain Looper ................ M
Stitch Length ......... 3.5mm
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Mock Flat Felled Seam
Fabric .................................................. mediumweight cotton twill, 4” x 6”
Needle ...................................................................... 80/12 Sharp or JLx2
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ......................................................................... Cover Stitch
Stitch .............................................................. wide 2-needle cover stitch
Notes
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger
for cover stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading
path on the serger.
Fold the fabric to form a ½” tuck lengthwise through the center of the
fabric.
Center the fabric under the presser foot. Lift the presser foot and
place the fabric completely under the foot, with the bulk of the fold
to the left. Align the folded edge with the inside of the right floating
toe of the presser foot.
Cover stitch, forming a tuck along the edge of the fabric. Serge to the
end of the fabric.
At the end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise until the
needles are at their lowest position. Then turn the handwheel clockwise
until the needles are at their highest position to release the threads from
the looper.
Raise the presser foot and carefully remove the work. Cut the thread
using the thread cutter.
Trim and mount the sample.
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Mock Flat Felled Seam Sample
Two Needle Cover Stitch - Wide
009DCC
Left Needle .................. 3-5
Right Needle ............... 3-5
Looper ........................... M
Stitch Length ............ 3mm
1300MDC
Left Needle .................. 3.2
Right Needle ............... 5.0
Chain Looper ................ M
Stitch Length ......... 3.5mm
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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Cover Stitch Hem - Woven Fabric
Fabric .................................................. mediumweight cotton twill, 4” x 6”
Needle ...................................................................... 80/12 Sharp or JLx2
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ......................................................................... Cover Stitch
Stitch .............................................................. wide 2-needle cover stitch
Notes
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger
for cover stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading
path on the serger.
Fold up a 2” hem along the 6” edge of the fabric. Glue stick or pin in
place.
Using the markings on the stitch plate as a guide, place the fabric
under the needles with the fold to the right of the presser foot, with
the right side of the fabric up and the hem/wrong side down.
Cover stitch the hem in place.
Trim and mount the sample.
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Cover Stitch Hem Sample - Woven Fabric
Two Needle Cover Stitch - Wide
009DCC
Left Needle .................. 3-5
Right Needle ............... 3-5
Looper ........................... M
Stitch Length ............ 3mm
1300MDC
Left Needle .................. 3.2
Right Needle ............... 5.0
Chain Looper ................ M
Stitch Length ......... 3.5mm
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Cover Stitch Hem - Knit Fabric
Fabric ....................................................................... cotton jersey, 5” x 6”
Needle ................................................................ 80/12 Universal or JLx2
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ......................................................................... Cover Stitch
Stitch .............................................................. wide 2-needle cover stitch
Notes
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger
for cover stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading
path on the serger.
Fold up a 2” hem along the 6” edge of the fabric. Glue stick or pin
in place.
Using the markings on the stitch plate as a guide, place the fabric
under the needles with the fold to the right or the presser foot, with
the right side of the fabric up and the hem/wrong side down.
Cover stitch the hem in place. There is no need to stretch the fabric while
stitching, as the cover stitch has natural stretch.
Trim and mount the sample.
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Cover Stitch Hem Sample - Knit Fabric
Two Needle Cover Stitch - Wide
009DCC
Left Needle .................. 3-5
Right Needle ............... 3-5
Looper ........................... M
Stitch Length ............ 3mm
1300MDC
Left Needle .................. 3.2
Right Needle ............... 5.0
Chain Looper ................ M
Stitch Length ......... 3.5mm
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Attaching Lace
Fabric ......................................................... mediumweight cotton, 3” x 6”
............................................................... 8” length of 1” wide lace edging
Needle ................................................................ 80/12 Universal or JLx2
Thread ................................................................... 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ......................................................................... Cover Stitch
Stitch .............................................................. wide 2-needle cover stitch
Notes
Use spray starch or fabric stiffener to stabilize the fabric and lace.
Position the lace on the right side of the fabric with the scalloped edge of
the lace even with the left side of the fabric.
Place fabric and lace under the needles with the lace header positioned
even with the inside edge of the right floating toe.
Cover stitch the lace to the fabric.
Trim fabric from beneath the lace.
Trim and mount sample.
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Attaching Lace Sample
Two Needle Cover Stitch - Wide
009DCC
Left Needle .................. 3-5
Right Needle ............... 3-5
Looper ........................... M
Stitch Length ............ 3mm
1300MDC
Left Needle .................. 3.2
Center Needle ............. 5.0
Chain Looper ................ M
Stitch Length ......... 3.5mm
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Chain Stitch Seam
Fabric ................................. 2 pieces mediumweight cotton, each 3” x 6”
Needle ...................................................................... 80/12 Sharp or JLx2
Thread ................................................................... 2 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ......................................................................... Cover Stitch
Stitch ...................................................................................... chain stitch
Notes
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for
chain stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path
on the serger. Follow the LCD instructions for the 1300MDC or your
manual for either 1300MDC/009DCC for proper tension settings.
With right sides together, place the fabric under the needles. Align the
raw edges with the 5/8” mark on the stitch plate.
Turn the handwheel clockwise for the first stitch.
Serge to the end of the fabric.
At the end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise until the
needle is at its lowest position. Then turn the handwheel clockwise until
the needle is at its highest position to release the thread from the looper.
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, raise the presser foot
and carefully remove the work. Cut the thread using the thread cutter.
Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the stitch graphic
in your owner's manual. Read the tension adjustment information in your
owner's manual for information about the stitch formation and correcting
any stitch irregularities. Make any necessary tension adjustments and
serge another row of stitching.
Trim and mount the sample.
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Chain Stitch Seam Sample
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Attaching Binding
Fabric ................................................................ pre-quilted fabric, 3” x 6”
................................................. 20” length of wide prefolded bias binding
Needle ...................................................................... 80/12 Sharp or JLx2
Thread ............................................................ 2 or 3 cones serger thread
Presser Foot ..................................................... standard or Cover Stitch
Stitch ................................................................ chainstitch or cover stitch
Notes
Cover Stitch Option:
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for
cover stitch.
Wrap the bias binding around one 6” side of the quilted fabric; secure in
place with 505 temporary spray adhesive.
Place the fabric under the needles with the unstitched edge of the
binding even with the inside of the left floating toe, with the quilted fabric
to the left.
Cover stitch the binding to the quilted fabric.
Chain Stitch Option:
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger
for chain stitch.
Wrap the bias binding around one 6” side of the quilted fabric; secure
in place with 505 temporary spray adhesive.
Place the fabric under the needles with the unstitched edge of the
binding even with the inside of the left floating toe, with the quilted fabric
to the right.
Chain stitch the binding to the quilted fabric.
Trim and mount the sample.
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Attaching Binding Sample
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Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Decorative Chain Stitch
Fabric ......................................................... mediumweight denim, 6” x 6”
Stabilizer ........................................................................ tear-away, 6” x 6”
Needle ...................................................................... 80/12 Sharp or JLx2
Thread ..................................................................... 1 cone serger thread
......................................................... 3 cones Isacord embroidery thread
................................................................. 1 cone Yenmet metallic thread
Presser Foot ..................................................... standard or Cover Stitch
Stitch ...................................................................................... chain stitch
Notes
Following the instructions in your owner’s manual, thread the serger for
chain stitch, threading the 3 strands of Isacord embroidery thread together, treating them as one thread. Use a lower looper threader or
dental floss threader to thread them through the eye of the looper.
Slightly loosen the tension on the chain stitch looper.
Place the stabilizer against the wrong side of the denim. Place the
denim right side down under the presser foot; the stabilizer will be on
top.
Chain stitch a curved line across the fabric. Turn the fabric over to see
the decorative stitching on the right side.
To increase the amount of decorative thread that shows, increase the
stitch length to 3mm or 4mm. Changing stitch length as you serge will
vary the decorative chain stitch effect. Always use a stitch length of at
least 2.5mm.
Stitch several more curved lines across the fabric.
Remove one spool of Isacord embroidery thread and replace it with
Yenmet metallic thread. Rethread the serger using 2 spools of Isacord
embroidery thread and 1 spool of Yenmet metallic thread in the lower
looper. Loosen the chain stitch looper tension slightly. Sew several
additional rows of decorative chain stitch.
Trim and mount the sample.
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Decorative Chain Stitch Sample
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
135
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
4-Thread Combination Stitch
(1300MDC only)
Fabric .......................................... 2 pieces mediumweight cotton, 3” x 8”
Needle ...................................................................... 80/12 Sharp or JLx2
Thread ................................................................... 4 cones serger thread
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................. 2-thread overlock with chain stitch (#19 or #20)
Notes
Thread the serger for a 4-thread combination stitch, either #19 or #20.
Following the instructions on the LCD screen or in your manual.
Serge fabric strips together along one long edge.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
4-Thread Combination Stitch Sample
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
137
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
5-Thread Combination Stitch
(1300MDC only)
Fabric .......................................... 2 pieces mediumweight cotton, 3” x 8”
Needle ...................................................................... 80/12 Sharp or JLx2
Thread ................................................................... 5 cones serger thread
Presser Foot .............................................................................. standard
Stitch ............................. 3-thread overlock with chain stitch (#17 or #18)
Notes
Thread the serger for a 5-thread combination stitch, #17 or #18.
Follow the instructions on the LCD screen or in your manual
Serge fabric strips together along one long edge.
Trim and mount the sample.
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
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®
©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
5-Thread Combination Stitch Sample
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
139
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©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
Mastering
Your
BERNINA®
Sergers
Class 5
Cover & Chain
Product Reference List
Feet-ures, Volume 2 (Unit M)
Feet-ures, Volume 3 (Unit P)
Serger Technique Reference Book
Chain Stitch Foot for 009DCC
Cover Stitch Hem Guide
Mettler serger thread
color________
color________
color________
Isacord embroidery thread
color________
color________
color________
Yenmet metallic thread
color________
color________
505 temporary adhesive spray
Bias binding
Bias tape makers
Bernette® IS 60 Professional Iron
6” seam guide
Rotary cutter
BERNINA® cutting mat
BERNINA® clear 14” ruler
MASTERING YOUR BERNINA® SERGERS 6/2006
140
®
©2006 BERNINA of America, Inc.
Permission to copy and distribute in printed and electronic formats granted only to Authorized BERNINA ® Dealers
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