Mainship 30 Pilot boat Операционное руководство
Below you will find brief information for Boat 30 Pilot. This manual covers engine inspection, start-up, shutdown, cruising, docking, fueling, electrical systems, sanitation, water systems, galley appliances, heating, electronics, anchoring, and more. Learn about the boat's systems and operation for a safe and enjoyable experience.
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OPERATION MANUAL
Machias
A Mainship 30 Pilot
Welcome aboard!
We are glad you’ve chosen “Machias” for your vacation. A boater’s boat, she’s cruised from Seattle to Ketchikan and everywhere in between. With trawler economy and throttle to get you there in a hurry, this Downeast is ready for your turn at the watch with intuitive, low-maintenance systems and redundant safeties. We are sure you will enjoy cruising the waters of the Pacific Northwest aboard.
We trust this manual will help you become familiar with the boat. If you have questions about the boat or about places to visit, please do not hesitate to ask the AYC staff.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Boat Operation
Engine Inspection
Start-Up
Shutdown
Getting Underway
Cruising
Docking
Fueling
Boat Electrical
A.C. (Shore) Systems
Inverter
D.C. (House) Systems
Batteries
Sanitation Systems
Marine Toilet
Holding Tank
Y-Valve
Water Systems
Fresh Water Tanks
Fresh Water Pump
Hot Water
Shower
Galley
Stove/Oven
Refrigeration/ Ice Maker
Heating Systems
Diesel Heater (DC)
Built-in Cabin Heaters (AC)
Engine-generated Heat (DC)
Electronics
VHF Radio, Depth Sounder, Radar
GPS/Plotter
Entertainment
AM/FM Radio
CD Player
TV/Stereo
Anchoring/Mooring Cans
Barbecue
Dinghy/Outboard
Crabbing/Fishing
Other: Bilge Pumps/Safety
Thru-Hull Diagram
BOAT OPERATION
Engine Inspection
It’s ok if you’ve never replaced your own transmission, built an aircraft in your garage, or rewired a small suburban substation. Your charter captain will bring you quickly up to speed upon checkout, allowing you to perform daily inspections like a pro. Machias is inspected before and after each charter, but this does not remove the need for good seamanship practices. As the captain in command, remember your “WOBBS” every morning: Water (Coolant), Oil, Bilges (Inspect and Pump-out), Belts and Sea Strainer.
Check the level of COOLANT in the expansion tanks. Check the level of OIL in the engine by checking your dipstick located on the starboard side of the block. Look at the etch marks on the dipstick that indicate the proper oil level. The marine diesel engine is new and in excellent working order, and it is not likely that you will need to add oil during your cruise.
DO NOT OVERFILL OIL!
Only fill if oil levels are below the ½ way mark. Please use a paper towel or oil rag, not the dish-towels. Check the general condition of the
BELTS, HOSES, and FUEL LINES.
Ensure the valve on each RAW WATER THRU-HULL is in the ‘open’ position (lever in-line with valve).
Observe the glass of each RAW WATER STRAINER for debris. If necessary, close the seacock, open the strainer cover, clean the strainer, and reassemble. Remember to reopen the seacock.
Start-Up
Before starting the engine, do your inspection. The engines should be started from the helm station.
Ensure GEARSHIFTS are in ‘neutral’, or the engines cannot be started because of the “neutral lockout”.
THROTTLES should be run up and down and then brought almost back to the idle position. Insert key into the IGNITION SWITCHES.
Turn the start switch to the run position while the ENGINE ALARM sounds and pre-heat the engine. Push the momentary switch to start to fire the engine. If the starter does not engage when the start switch is engaged, move the gearshift lever slightly until you find neutral.
If the engine cranks slowly or fails to turn over, check the condition of the battery on the ELECTRICAL
PANEL. If the battery is low, try the BATTERY PARALLEL SWITCH located under the galley sink to connect the other engine battery. Turn off after using.
Warm the engine for about 5 minutes before engaging transmission. Observe the readings of the gauges.
The oil pressure will register about 40 PSI. The engine temperature should rise slowly.
Note -- If oil pressure is low, shut down engine, and inspect engine compartment and look for possible cause
(for example, loss of oil.) Caution -- If an engine is overheating or there is lack of raw water expelled in the engine exhaust, stop the engine immediately. Recheck the raw water-cooling system to ensure the seacock is ‘open’ (handle in-line with valve). Next, check the raw water strainer for debris. Remove the strainer, clean, re-assemble, and reopen the raw water intake valve (seacock). Restart the engine and recheck water flow from the exhaust. If water is not flowing properly, the RAW WATER PUMP may need to be serviced. Seek help.
Shut-Down
Before shutting down, allow the engine ‘idle’ for about 5 minutes to cool gradually and uniformly. The time engaged in preparing to dock the boat is usually sufficient. Ensure the GEARSHIFT is in the ‘neutral’ position with the throttle at idle. Turn off engine with the key.
Getting Underway
DISCONNECT the shore power cord (see 110-Volt next page). Close the PORTHOLES, WINDOWS, and
FORWARD HATCH. Turn on your VHF and electronics. ASSIGN crew members their various positions.
Once outside the marina, idle the engine while crew brings in fenders and lines.
Cruising
All close quarters maneuvering should always take place at minimum control speed.
Engage the GEARSHIFT. Ensure the trolling valve is in the closed and locked position, and do not run
or engage the trolling valve at speeds higher than idle. Opening or running the trolling valve above
800 RPM’s will cause immediate damage to the transmission.
Cruising speed is a maximum of about 3200 RPMS. If you run at 2000 RPMS you will cruise at 9 knots and see an economy of 4.1 MPG. If you run at 3000 RPMS you will cruise at 17 knots and achieve 2.5
MPG. Your speed will vary depending upon the weight and load and weather conditions. TRIM TABS can
be put in the “bow down” position, adjusted for gear and passenger loads. Adjust trim tabs to bow up position for 5-8 seconds before close quarters maneuvering.
Note -- Avoid higher engine speeds as it causes higher engine temperature, possible damage, and higher
fuel consumption.
Docking
During docking, have your crew make ready the lines and fenders and give clear instructions on how you will be docking. Often times your crew will need to step off from the swim step with the stern line. Another crew member will need to be at the bow or mid-ships to hand over the next lines.
Rock Trim tab switches to the ‘bow up’ position (8 to 10 seconds) to make slow-speed backing and turning easier. While moving slowly to the dock or mooring location, use the helm, the shifter, and the bow thruster to maneuver. A single screw, Machias will back to starboard, plan ahead as you choose your berth or slip.
Fueling Up
OPEN FILLER CAP(S) located midships with a DECK FITTING KEY which is kept in the propane fuel locker.
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT FUEL! DIESEL! DIESEL! DIESEL! MAKE SURE IT IS
GOING INTO THE RIGHT DECK FILL!
DOUBLE-CHECK!
Before pumping, have an oil/fuel sorbs handy to soak up spilled fuel. You should have a rough idea of the number of gallons you will need by the engine hour indicator. Also periodically have someone turn on the key to watch the fuel gauge.
Place the DIESEL nozzle into the tank opening, pump slowly and evenly, and note the sound of the fuel flow. Pumping too fast may not allow enough time for air to escape, which may result in spouting from the tank opening. As the tank fills, the sound will rise in pitch or gurgle. Pay attention to the TANK
OVERFLOW VENT on the outside of the hull near the tank opening. The sound may indicate that the tank is nearly full. Top off carefully, and be prepared to catch spilled fuel. Spillage may result in a nasty fine from law enforcement.
Replace each tank cap. Turn on blower before starting engines. Caution -- Clean up splatter and spillage
immediately for environmental and health reasons. Wash hands with soap and water thoroughly.
BOAT ELECTRICAL
The electrical system is divided into two distribution systems: 110-volt AC and 12-volt DC.
The systems are controlled from the AC ELECTRICAL PANEL located above the galley on the right, the
DC AUXILIARY PANEL located above the galley on the left, and the BATTERY SWITCHES FOUND under the galley sink. When not connected to shore power, batteries are providing all power. Therefore,
monitor the use of onboard electricity carefully with your volt meter located on the electrical panel, and turn off electrical devices that are not needed.
Most breakers are labeled by colored dots. Green signifies “usually on”. Red is “usually off” Blue dots are water pressure or water-related like pumps. Yellow signifies electronics or items to use cautiously. No dots are breakers signify irregular use or use with discretion.
If something isn’t working when switched on, check for further switches up the line. For instance, the cockpit lights require that the DC main is on, the helm supply switch is on on the DC panel, the helm panel cockpit light switch is on beneath the helm, and either forward or aft switch is on above the helm. It can be confusing, but it’s part of the redundant safeties and fusing required. Always check power back to the source if something fails to turn on.
110-Volt AC System
SHORE POWER supports all AC equipment and receptacles on board, as well as the battery chargers.
To connect to shore power, plug the 30 amp POWER CORD into the boat and then into the dock receptacle.
Check the power rating/plug size of the nearest dock receptacle (that is 50 amp, 30 amp, 20 amp, or 15 amp).
If necessary, add a CORD ADAPTER located under the dinette. Turn the dock power on. Cords coming off the bow can be wrapped loosely around the bow line.
At the ELECTRICAL PANEL, flip the SHORE CIRCUIT BREAKER on. Check for reverse polarity.
Then turn on appropriate breakers for battery charger, refrigeration, water heater, and ac outlets as required.
Watch you volt meter for load. If the load exceeds voltage, you will pop your breaker. If this occurs, wait to turn on one of your systems (i.e. water heater) until your use of volts drop.
If your outlets fail to work, check your GFIs to make sure that they have not been tripped.
Generator
This vessel is not equipped with a generator.
House (12-volt) System
Two battery banks support 12-volt DC power: 1) engine battery 2) house batteries.
The BATTERY SWITCHES are located under the galley sink, and an additional engine bank switch is located in the engine compartment near the hatch handle. Normally, leave the ENGINE in the ‘ON’ position.
Note – For any vessel, do not change the position of the switches while the engines are running or the alternator diodes will be damaged.
Change positions only with the engine off.
Your 12 volt panel shows all the systems supported by your batteries. Primarily you will be turning on the breakers for your lights, water pressure, electronics, etc. Bilge pumps are always on automatically, but can be turned on manually from the panel, ensure they are not left on.
Your breakers such as propane should always be turned off after every use.
House Battery Bank & Switch
The HOUSE BATTERY BANK provides power for all DC systems, except the engine and automatic bilge pumps. When disconnected from shore power, all 12-volt devices drain the house battery. Use devices as needed. The DC voltmeter on the DC panel can be switched between Port, Starboard, and House Battery banks to measure charging or resting battery voltages.
When a battery bank is being charged, the voltage will read from about 13.1 volts to 14.4 volts depending upon state-of-charge of the battery bank. When the battery bank is at rest, (that is, not being charged), the voltmeter can give a rough indication of the state-of-charge of the battery bank.
All batteries are charged by the engine ALTERNATOR while underway. The engine/house batteries are charged by the BATTERY CHARGER when connected to shore power. Ensure the Battery
Charger/Inverter circuit breakers at the electrical panel are ON when connected to shore power.
Voltage (Wet Cell Battery)
12.65 volts
Battery State
100%
12.47 volts
12.25 volts
11.95 volts
11.70 volts
75%
50%
25%
0%
Battery Parallel Switch
Each ENGINE BATTERY is connected to its corresponding engine. However, should one engine battery be insufficiently charged to start its engine, the other engine battery may be momentarily connected to provide a boost. Press the BATTERY PARALLEL SWITCH located under the galley sink. Turn off after the engine is running.
SANITATION SYSTEM
Marine Toilet
It is important that every member of the crew be informed on the proper use of the MARINE TOILET. The valves, openings, and pumps are small and may clog easily. If the toilet clogs, it is YOUR
RESONSIBILITY!
Always pump the head for children, so you can make sure nothing foreign is being flushed.
Caution – Never put paper towels, tampons, Kleenex, sanitary napkins, household toilet paper, or food into the marine toilet. Use only the special dissolving marine toilet tissue provided by AYC.
The DC panel has a “HEAD” switch that must be on for the pump to flush the head. The black button on the vanity will then operate the flusher. Inshore, waste will enter the holding tank and be pumped at an
appropriate facility (see below). Offshore or in other nation’s waters, you may use the macerator pump to discharge overboard. Obey laws and placards as posted, and ask your charter captain about use of the discharge system.
The TOILET THRU-HULL is located under the companionway step if you need to shut off the water to the toilet. Clean the toilet as necessary.
Holding Tank
The sanitation HOLDING TANK holds approximately 13 gallons. Be aware of the rate of waste production.
(about 1 gallon per flush) With an overfilled tank, it is possible to break a hose, clog a vent, or burst the tank. The result will be indescribable catastrophe and an EXPENSIVE FIX to you. Empty the tank EVERY
OTHER DAY to avoid this problem.
The HOLDING TANK is located between the aft hatch and the engine hatch. Some may be subject to a visual check with a flashlight or the “watermelon” test by thumping it. There is a tank watch warning light located on the companionway bulkhead, but do not rely upon this as they often get clogged.
The holding tank is emptied in one of two ways:
#1 At the Marine Pump-Out Station, remove the WASTE CAP located on deck Insert the pump-out nozzle into the waste opening. Double-check your deck fitting! Turn on pump and open valve located on handle.
When pumping is finished, close lever on handle and turn off pump. Remove from deck fitting.
If there is a fresh water hose on the dock, rinse the tank by adding 2 minutes of water into tank. Then repump to leave the tank rinsed for the next charter. This also eliminates head odors.
#2 The tank’s contents can be discharged with the MACERATOR only in Canadian waters.
To operate the macerator, open the seacock (described below) in the aft hatch, depress the MACERATOR
ROCKER SWITCH on the DC electrical panel. Listen to the macerator’s sound. When the pitch becomes higher, the tank is empty. Discharge may be observed on the starboard side, aft. It should only take a few minutes to empty the tank
Y-Valve Seacock
The Y-VALVE directs waste effluent into the sanitation-holding tank or flushes the effluent ‘directly overboard’. The Y-VALVE is located next to the macerator in the aft hatch. A plastic strap keeps the handle pointed to the holding tank – the normal position. Y-valves are usually wire-tied to the holding tank
position in respect to Coast Guard regulations. Please leave it “as is” unless there is an emergency. Be familiar with the applicable laws concerning dumping sewage directly overboard.
WATER SYSTEM
Fresh Water Tank(s)
The FRESH WATER TANK holds-#--- gallons. Observe the water level by gauge in companionway.
Waste water from the sinks and showers drains overboard through various thru-hulls usually located under the sinks or sump under the companionway step.
To refill the tank, remove the WATER CAP(S) located aft. Avoid flushing debris from the deck into the tank opening. DO NOT fill water and diesel at the same time!
Fresh Water Pressure Pump
The WATER PRESSURE PUMP is located in the engine compartment. Activate pump at the DC panel by turning on the breaker. If the water pump continues to run, you are either out of water or might have an air lock and need to bleed the system by opening up a faucet. If you run out of water SHUT OFF YOUR HOT
WATER HEATER on the AC panel. Serious damage can occur!
Hot Water Tank
The HOT WATER HEATER has a 13 gallon capacity tank and is available when connected to shore power or via a heat exchanger underway. To use on shore power, flip on the water heater circuit breaker on the AC electrical panel. Do not use the water heater if the water tank level is very low. The water heater is under the V-berth.
Shower
Before taking a SHOWER, make sure water pressure and shower sump breakers are on. Take only very short
“boat” showers (turning off water between soaping up and rinsing). To keep shower tidy wipe down the shower stall and floor. Check for accumulation of hair in the shower and sink drains. An additional FRESH
WATER SHOWER is located next to the transom door. Ensure that the faucets and nozzle are completely off after use.
GALLEY
Stove/oven
The stove propane fueled.
Your propane stove is activated by the following steps:
#1 Turn on the propane tank located in the port lazarette seat locker.
#2 Turn on the DC breaker labeled propane and the solenoid switch located above and left of the DC panel.
#3 Turn on the gas at the stove (Press in knob) and light burner. You might need to hold knob in for a few seconds while the thermo coupler warms up. The came applies to cabin heat. When finished cooking turn off the switches and the bottle.
Refrigerator
The REFRIGERATOR is dual voltage (12-volt and 110-volt power). It will automatically use 110-volt power when the shore power is connected; otherwise, it will operate on 12-volt power. Monitor the use of
the refrigerator when the engines are not charging the 12-volt battery system. The local power switch is located below the front door. It can be turned down to the lowest position when anchored or moored or turned off when turning in for the night.
HEATING SYSTEM
Propane Heater ( DC)
The PROPANE DICKINSON STOVE located midship provides heat in the same way as a household fireplace. Turn on the TOGGLE SWITCH located above and left of the DC panel. Set the THERMOSTAT to the desired temperature.
Check The furnace EXHAUST PORT located above for any obstruction such as towels or lines. Do not block this opening when operating the furnace. Heat will damage fiberglass or rubber. Once it is on, allow it to run for at least 15 minutes before turning it off. Turn ‘off’ the furnace heater by turning switch back off.
ELECTRONICS
All electronic manuals are located in the manuals folder under the companionway step.
VHF Radio
There is one VHF RADIO at the helm. Make sure the helm breaker is on located at the DC panel. Always monitor channel 16 while underway.
Depth Sounder
There are two DEPTH SOUNDERS. To activate the upper DEPTH SOUNDER, press the power/brill switch. Set the scale, shallow alarm, and deep alarm if desired. The sounder should provide reliable readings in shallow waters. If in doubt, switch it off, then turn it back on to reset sounder. If your reading is blinking, it is a FALSE reading. False readings can occur in depths of more then 600 feet or in areas of string currents or tides.
Remember to ALWAYS consult your charts for depth!
Radar
To operate RADAR press and hold the POWER/BRILL button to turn the radar on. To turn off, press and hold POWER button about 3 seconds. Follow onscreen selection instructions. Remember you are not allowed to travel in FOG or in serious wind conditions.
Global Positioning System (GPS)
A fixed mount GPS is on the left. Ascertain that your helm breaker is on and then press the ‘on/off/light’ button to activate.
Note
-- GPS is considered a navigation aid. Do not rely on it. Compasses, charts, and dividers are the tools to plot position, course, and speed.
ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS
AM/FM Stereo Radio
The stereo is located adjacent the DC panel, and has aux inputs for your iPod or mobile device. There is a DC breaker labeled Stereo that must first be turned on to operate the system.
TV/VCR
This vessel does not have a TV.
ANCHORING
The primary WORKING ANCHOR is a plow and is attached to 50ft chain and 300ft nylon line passed through the deck from the ANCHOR LOCKER. The locker can be accessed through the bow hatch. If there is an anchor keeper, release it.
The WINDLASS POWER SWITCH is located at the helm, and foot switches are located at the bow. At the bow, tap gently on the ‘down’ foot control to lower the anchor. If necessary, guide the anchor over the anchor roller to prevent binding on the pulpit.
Let out sufficient ANCHOR RODE (chain and nylon line) before setting the anchor. Colored markers are placed every ---feet on the chain and nylon rode, indicated amount of rode. If the anchorage is crowded put down at least a 3 to 1 scope (60 feet for 20 feet of water), back the anchor in with a short burst from the engine. Then let out additional scope dependent upon conditions.
Before raising the anchor, ALWAYS start the engines as it uses large amounts of power. Turn ‘on’ the
WINDLASS SWITCH and as the boat moves toward the anchor, press the ‘up’ control to take up slack line.
Give the windlass short rests as you are pulling it up. Place yourself in position to guide the anchor onto the roller. As the anchor rises, be careful not to allow it to swing against the hull. Wash it down if you have a wash down pump before it goes into anchor locker.
Reconnect the keeper between the anchor and pulpit. Close the plastic covers on the FOOT PEDAL
CONTROLS. Turn ‘off’ the WINDLASS POWER SWITCH.
A SPARE Danforth ANCHOR is normally stowed under the forward dinette seat. The 200t SPARE
ANCHOR RODE is attached Attach the rode securely to the chain shackle.
Mooring Cans
The State Park Sticker on your vessel allows you to pick up the MOORING CANS in the parks for free.
You only need to register at the kiosk usually located at the heads of the docks. Mooring cans have a metal
triangle at the top upon which is a metal ring. The metal ring is attached to the chain which secures your boat. IT IS VERY HEAVY. The strongest member of your crew should be picked for this job.
Come up to the CAN into the wind as you would for anchoring. Have crew members on the bow, one with a boat hook and one with a mooring line secured like a bow line. As you are coming slowly up to the can have the crew holding the boat hook point at the can with the hook so the skipper always knows where it is.
Hook the can and bring the ring up to the boat to allow the second crew to thread the ring with the line.
Release the hold with the boat hook. If your mooring line is led out the starboard chock bring the end of the line back through the port side. You will essentially create a bridle with about 10 feet of slack from the chalk to the can.
BARBECUE
The BARBECUE and MOUNTING BRACKET are stored under the deck seat cushion.
Place MOUNTING BRACKET on the downrigger mount by putting the through-pin through the black plastic mount. Reverse the procedure to dismount barbecue. Attach a PROPANE BOTTLE to the
REGULATOR found in the propane locker. Carefully light the unit, preferably with a long-stem butane lighter. The barbecue generates a lot of heat and cooks hot and fast. Store the barbecue unit back in the seat comprtment. Please wipe with a paper towel before storing to prevent grease and dirt soiling the boat..
Note: Propane bottles are not stocked by AYC. You will need to purchase one if extras are not found on board. Caution -- For safety reasons, do not store an opened propane bottle within the salon or engine compartment. Chances are these will leak slightly once opened and propane gas could settle into low spaces. Store extra propane in the propane locker. Ensure gasoline and flammable materials are not near the barbecue.
DINGHY & OUTBOARD MOTOR
Your Zodiac DINGHY with a 2hp Honda engine is stored on the transom davits. It has a capacity of about
550 - pounds (motor, equipment, and 3 people).
To deploy the dinghy, clip the snap clip of the DINGHY ROPE to the top of the rail near the oarlock, and route the line through the pulley block on the bridge ladder, then the pulley block on the line. Holding the dinghy and the line, detach the STANDOFF BARS, and lower the dinghy with the line into the water, noting that the dinghy gets heavier as it nears the water.
The dingy design, combined with the high speed of Machias, does not lend itself to being towed. Please stow the dingy in the davits while underway.
Coast Guard regulations state that any child 14 and under must wear a life jacket in a dinghy. It is a good idea for EVERYONE to follow this rule.
CRABBING & FISHING
Always check the fishing and crabbing requirements before you leave on your cruise. You will need a license. Many areas are CLOSED to crabbing and fishing on certain months.
CRAB AWAY FROM THE BOAT! Lines can get wrapped around props. Fish-flavored cat food with the pop-up ringed lids work the best for a nice neat way to bait the ring. After 15-20 minutes, retrieve the crab line and ring quickly. Measure the crabs using the CRAB MEASURING GAUGE normally located in the aft hatch. Keep the male crabs of proper size (usually 6 ¼ inches across the carapace). Boil crabs about 12 minutes to cook.
After using, wash equipment thoroughly with fresh water (available from the cockpit shower faucet). Note -
- Please do not store wet rings and gear inside the boat.
OTHER: Safety & Bilge Pumps
SAFETY should be paramount in your daily cruising. A MAN OVERBOARD DRILL should be discussed and perhaps even practiced with a life jacket. Remember you lifejackets are stowed under the dinette. A few should always be out and ready. Your flares and safety equipment are located under the dinette as well.
Machias is equipped with 3 AUTOMATIC BILGE PUMP. The master switch is located on the electrical panel. Normally, the switch will be left in the AUTO position. You may occasionally hear the pump operate due to condensation and water from the shaft log accumulating in the bilge.
The ENGINE SPARES BOX (plastic blue color) is stowed under the V-berth This includes oil filter, raw water impeller, pump parts, injectors, and other small parts.
THRU-HULL LOCATIONS
There are below waterline thru-hulls for raw water cooling intake, head water intake, and macerator discharge. They are located under the engine and aft hatches and labeled to their function.
There are above waterline thru-hulls for sink, sump, and bilge discharge.

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Key features
- Trawler economy
- Intuitive, low-maintenance systems
- Redundant safeties
- Throttle for quick travel
- Engine start-up and shutdown procedures
- Docking instructions
- Fueling and tank management
- Electrical system overview
- Sanitation system usage
- Water system management