FW Special Part2_14_5_2014_VFINALv4

Welcome again

You are now on part two, at over half-way and on the home run. From here your vehicle will develop rapidly into the sportscar you have always desired – enjoy!

Julian Turner

Managing Director

© 2013 Westfield Sportscars Ltd

2

FW SPECIAL

CHAPTERS

18 Engine installation ............................................................................................ 8

19 Cooling system ............................................................................................... 35

20 Pre-build-up work and tests ........................................................................... 54

21 Panelling ........................................................................................................ 62

22 Bodywork ....................................................................................................... 69

23 Dash-panel & Steering Wheel Fitting ........................................................... 113

24 Interior and trim ........................................................................................... 121

25 Set-up ........................................................................................................... 131

26 Pre-IVA ......................................................................................................... 133

Annexe 1 Wiring colour decoders ...................................................................... 139

Annexe 2 Torque settings .................................................................................. 143

Annexe 3 Specifications ..................................................................................... 144

Annexe 4 Basic servicing & aftercare ................................................................. 145

Annexe 5 Booking an IVA & Vehicle Registration .............................................. 146

Annexe 6 Remember List ................................................................................... 149

Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013

FW SPECIAL

Contents

18 Engine installation ............................................................................................ 8

Introduction, preparation and safety ...................................................................... 8

Drilling the Gearbox rear-mounting plate ................................................................ 9

Rigging the engine with a load leveller ................................................................. 11

Engine and engine bay preparation ....................................................................... 13

Engine Insertion .................................................................................................... 16

Optional gearbox filler hole ................................................................................... 19

Engine connections ............................................................................................... 20

Spark-plugs and coil .......................................................................................................... 20

Air temperature sensor ...................................................................................................... 21

Crankshaft position sensor ................................................................................................ 22

Cam position sensor (NOT USED) ...................................................................................... 22

Coolant Temperature sensor ............................................................................................. 22

Throttle position sensor ..................................................................................................... 23

Reverse switch .................................................................................................................. 24

Temperature sender – temperature gauge ........................................................................ 24

Idle motor connection ....................................................................................................... 25

Cooling fan switch – fitted later ........................................................................................ 26

Engine Earth Strap ............................................................................................................. 27

Alternator .......................................................................................................................... 28

Starter solenoid ................................................................................................................. 28

Fuel Injector connections .................................................................................................. 29

Fitting the oil pressure sender ........................................................................................... 29

Manifold fitting ...................................................................................................... 30

Fitting the Scuttle Plate (OPTION POINT) ............................................................. 31

Clutch connection .................................................................................................. 31

Fitting the throttle cable........................................................................................ 32

Throttle cable sheath shortening ....................................................................................... 32

Throttle body, Throttle cable installation .......................................................................... 33

19 Cooling system ............................................................................................... 35

Cooling system, General ........................................................................................ 35


3

4

FW SPECIAL

Radiator fitting ...................................................................................................... 40

Fit the Horn now ................................................................................................................ 40

Fit the fan switch ............................................................................................................... 40

Radiator build-up ............................................................................................................... 41

Bottom radiator connection ............................................................................................... 44

Loose-fit the Scuttle .............................................................................................. 45

Useful views .......................................................................................................... 47

Fitting the Aluminium pipes .................................................................................. 48

Making the top heater hose connection ................................................................. 49

Heater bypass (when a heater is not fitted) .......................................................... 49

Mounting and connecting the expansion tank ....................................................... 50

Final assembly ....................................................................................................... 50

Front of engine .................................................................................................................. 50

Rear of Engine ................................................................................................................... 51

Cooling system checks........................................................................................... 52

20 Pre-build-up work and tests ........................................................................... 54

Introduction .......................................................................................................... 54

Brake bleeding ................................................................................................................... 54

Checks before fitting the wheels ....................................................................................... 58

21 Panelling ........................................................................................................ 62

General .................................................................................................................. 62

Seat Bulkhead ....................................................................................................... 62

Transmission tunnel sides ..................................................................................... 64

Tunnel Top-Panels ................................................................................................. 65

Outside panels ....................................................................................................... 67

Inside Panels ......................................................................................................... 68

22 Bodywork ....................................................................................................... 69

General .................................................................................................................. 69

Checks ............................................................................................................................... 69

Set-up ................................................................................................................................ 70

Building the body .................................................................................................. 71

Mounting the body on the chassis ..................................................................................... 74


FW SPECIAL

Nosecone fitting .................................................................................................... 78

Fitting the spats and headlamp bracket ................................................................ 85

Indicator pods ....................................................................................................... 91

Fitting the bonnet latches.................................................................................................. 92

Windscreen fitting ................................................................................................. 92

Nosecone grille ...................................................................................................... 97

Standard roll-over bar fitting ................................................................................. 98

Seatbelt mounting and Fuel filler cap mounting .................................................... 99

Preparation ........................................................................................................................ 99

Fuel filler-cap installation pt1 ............................................................................................ 99

Seatbelt eyebolts ............................................................................................................. 100

Fuel filler-cap pt2 ............................................................................................................ 101

Boot-box fitting ................................................................................................... 102

Boot-lid fitting ..................................................................................................... 103

Cycle-wing fitting ................................................................................................ 105

Rear wing protector spats ................................................................................... 110

23 Dash-panel & Steering Wheel Fitting ........................................................... 113

Calibrating the speedometer ............................................................................... 113

Securing the loom for the Dashboard .................................................................. 114

Dashboard panel fitting ....................................................................................... 115

Wiring the Dashboard .......................................................................................... 118

Building the Steering Wheel BASIC ..................................................................... 120

24 Interior and trim ........................................................................................... 121

Interior side-panels ............................................................................................. 121

Carpet fitting and trim ......................................................................................... 121

Seat belt fitting ................................................................................................... 124

Upper harness mounting points ...................................................................................... 124

Seat Fitting ...................................................................................................................... 125

Dash trim fitting .................................................................................................. 126

Mirror fitting ........................................................................................................ 127

Elbow pad fitting ................................................................................................. 128

Sidescreen fitting (Option) .................................................................................. 128


5

6

FW SPECIAL

Knee protector plates ........................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.

25 Set-up ........................................................................................................... 131

Set-up general ..................................................................................................... 131

Engine set-up ...................................................................................................... 131

Initial start-up engine settings ............................................................................ 132

Standard engine ........................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.

Throttle body engine .................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.

Suspension set-up ............................................................................................... 132

26 Pre-IVA ......................................................................................................... 133

Adding safety protection ..................................................................................... 133

Checks and safety measures................................................................................ 134

Front of the car ................................................................................................................ 134

Torqued nuts and bolts .................................................................................................... 134

Cabin – physical hazards ................................................................................................. 134

Instrumentation and Dash indicators .............................................................................. 135

Electrical functions .......................................................................................................... 135

Wheels and tyres ............................................................................................................. 135

Steering ........................................................................................................................... 136

Lights and indicators ....................................................................................................... 136

Safety .............................................................................................................................. 137

Annexe 1 Wiring colour decoders ...................................................................... 139

Annexe 2 Torque settings .................................................................................. 143

Annexe 3 Specifications ..................................................................................... 144

Annexe 4 Basic servicing & aftercare ................................................................. 145

Annexe 5 Booking an IVA & Vehicle Registration .............................................. 146

Booking an IVA .................................................................................................... 146

The IVA................................................................................................................ 146

Applying for Registration ..................................................................................... 147

About insurance for kit cars ................................................................................. 148

Annexe 6 Remember List ................................................................................... 149


FW SPECIAL

Table of Figures

Figure 1 Gearbox oil filler hole option ....................................................................... 19

Figure 2 Cooling system parts explosion ........................................................... 38

Figure 3 Cooling system simplified assembly diagram ..................................... 39

Figure 4 Panel, Tunnel side and upper top................................................................ 64

Figure 5 Transmission tunnel Panels top-set ............................................................. 65

Figure 6 Fitting the body to the chassis ............................................................ 75

Figure 2 Body fitting technique ................................................................................ 76

Figure 3 Body positioning ........................................................................................ 77

Figure 4 Nosecone trial positioning .......................................................................... 78

Figure 10 Nosecone hinge location .................................................................... 79

Figure 6 Alternative nosecone hinge arrangement ..................................................... 81

Figure 7 Alternative (larger) nosecone hinge ............................................................ 81

Figure 13 Nosecone Tee hinge standard method.............................................. 82

Figure 9 Rear body panel mounting bracket fixing ..................................................... 84

Figure 15 Jigging the windscreen position ....................................................... 93

Figure 16 Lashing the Dash loom to the Dash rail .......................................... 114

Figure 17 Dash panel lashed for wiring ........................................................... 115

Figure 13 Scuttle edge profiling for the Dash panel (contoured Dash) ....................... 116

List of Tables

Table 1 Dash, wire decoder .............................................................................. 118

Table 2 Torque settings .................................................................................... 143

7


8

FW SPECIAL

18 Engine installation

TOOLS

MATERIALS

Spanners/Sockets Other Tools

Imperial Metric

Engine hoist & load leveller Gearbox oil

Spanners Spanners Towels or thick cloths Lithium grease

Sockets Sockets Allen keys

Chassis position On Axel stands (best) or wheels (need to be fitted)

Data on completion

People

2 is best

Time

19 hrs

% Complete

66%

General advice

Seek help for the engine insertion if you can - it is far safer. It is wise to read the whole chapter before commencing.

Introduction, preparation and safety

It is well worth reading this whole chapter before commencing and consider the option later in the chapter.

Okay, this is a really interesting part and it feels like you are getting somewhere when the engine goes in and it is also a time to be especially careful with safety.

The right equipment is essential whether hired, bought or borrowed and it must be in safe condition. You will need an engine crane or hoist attached to a load-rated beam. The crane is better because the engine can be moved on castors into the car rather than the car being pushed under the hoist (which means the wheels have to be on the car).

It is best to mount the car on axel stands at this point – 4-off, near each corner for stability. Put cloth on each to guard the powder-coating and ensure the stands are on horizontal members so that they do not slip. Make sure they are level and stable on their bases. When settled, the car will be very secure. Set it high enough that you can reach under to work on the underside. If you do work underneath, ensue that safety blocks independent of the axel stands are in-place should the car move. It is very unwise to work underneath alone or in fact perform any of the next tasks on you own.

Apart from the extra pair of hands, another pair of eyes looking in the areas you cannot see will prevent accidents, collisions or damage.


FW SPECIAL

So, if using an engine crane it is very wise to use a load-leveller as well. This will also permit the engine to be inclined back and forth to give the best possible route into the transmission tunnel and engine bay.

If you don’t use a leveller then the engine and gearbox will need to be supported at its balance point. The balance point is just behind the engine block on the clutch bell-housing. Another strap horizontally around the engine around the vertical load bearing strap will hold it in-place. Be aware of where the load will fall when lifting and ensure no fragile plastic parts might be crush or rippedoff by the tension in the straps. Think again about how that load-bearing strap might move or slip when the load is being inclined. If lifting this way also you must connect a safety chain to the lifting eyes such that if it slips the chains will prevent a serious accident. The load leveller is by far the best solution.

Drilling the Gearbox rear-mounting plate

It is much easier to drill the gearbox bearer mounting holes now than after engine insertion.

The plate has two existing slots. The gearbox sits well forward on this plate and the holes will be close to the front edge. There is ample bearer capability when this is completed so do not be concerned with the edge proximity.

9


10

FW SPECIAL

Mark the exact centre line of the plate fore and aft. Measure 95mm between centres and draw on the lines fore and aft. Mark 45 degrees lines from the apex of the slotted holes towards the new centre line as show. Ensure that they look even about the centre line.

Now punch the centre to prevent drill drift. A final visual check is wise before drilling.

45 Degrees

95mm

Centres

9 mm

Hole

45 Degrees

9 mm

Hole

Select a pilot drill of 3 - 3.5 mm and drill each hole. Check that they still look parallel to the edge before drilling larger and then check for 95mm centres. If not, ease the hole centre over by using side thrust on the drill bit – not too much or the drill will break! Next, drill with about a 6mm drill and check the parallelism and the pitch is still 95mm about the centre-line. Increase the drill to 9mm (reduce drill speed to slow here) and drill again, check the result. When performing the final drilling, use near zero down-force to prevent grab and keep the drill speed slow.

The resultant holes will be a very easy fit for 8mm bolts when they are inserted. When the engine is in-place, centre the gear-change extension and sight the hole positions.

Adjust the engine position until there is perfect clearance. If there is a little overlap and a 8mm bolt will not pass though (unlikely) then just fettle through the bearer from above with a round file.


FW SPECIAL

The bearer bracket is lipped and it may be difficult to engage the bolt head with a socket but there is an easy solution.

Use a 8mm, high-tensile set-screw of about 40mm length. Apply a nut and screw it all of the way home to the head and tighten until either the corners align or are set at alternate so that the socket will fit over it. This simple technique raises the bolt head above the flange. Use a small washer top and bottom.

Rigging the engine with a load leveller

As explained previously, a load leveller is by far the best and safest way to insert an engine.

Lay a large towel or blanket over the cam-cover to avoid damage – ensure that it wraps around the sides so that the chains when attached do not gouge.

The two fitted engine bearers may be used by looping the chains through and back to the suspension eye. Fit the chains as tightly as possible.

Ensure that the adjusting handle faces away from the crane.

Use fixings on the side of the engine to mount the other two chains. Use a large penny washer over the chain to be assured that it cannot slip off and drive the bolt home (it does not need to be torqued, nipped will do). Hang the chain on the suspension hook – again keeping the chain as short as possible.


11

12

FW SPECIAL

Finally add a little tension via the crane and tighten the suspension nuts until the rig is level, low and all of the chains are tight. Inspect carefully to ensure that plastic will not be scarred, crushed or cut off during lifting.

Lift a little way to ensure that the load is settled and will not suddenly jump or shift. The load is now ready for positioning. Start by levelling the engine; if it is not already level.

Park activity at that point for a moment while engine and engine-bay bay are prepared.


FW SPECIAL

Engine and engine bay preparation

If the steering connecting rod is already inserted – it is best to remove it – this only takes a minute.

Remove the two securing bolts on the UJ shackles.

Pull up the top of the steering column in the passenger compartment to withdraw the top splines while holding the connecting shaft. Now pull the shaft out from the rack spline – store safely.

It is much easier and safer to remove the RHS engine bearer by undoing the three bolts to the engine. It will be re-attached just as the engine nears its final position.

Remove the LHS chassis engine

Chassis mounting

Unlock the steering lock to pull the shaft

bracket for now.

It is inserted later with the engine nearly home.

Pull all cables out of the bay and tie them back so that they will not be trapped and damaged. Route them to the correct side of the engine now and tie them back to prevent traps.


13

14

FW SPECIAL

Remove the gear-leaver – 3 bolts only. Extract vertically and dust-cap the end of the open tube with Duct tape silicone can be used to hold the ends down.

The gearbox is empty on delivery (because the oil would pour out of the output spline). Hang a flag on the side of the gearbox and put a reminder in the on the “Remember” list.

If you have a front ARB fitted, remove it to prevent an obstruction as shown. Undo the upper wishbone bolts and tap them back with a drift or soft mallet but do not remove them. This will allow the Bearing-blocks to be removed. Disconnect the shackles and manipulate the

ARB out through the LHS to the rear of the hub. Reenter this way after engine insertion.

The engine will not fit with the

Front


FW SPECIAL

Hang a piece of cardboard over the transmission tunnel hoop and lay a piece of cardboard over the front of the Gearbox mounting plate.

Drape a large towel or blanket over the front of the chassis in case anything contacts.

15

The engine bay is now ready to receive the engine.

This engine has throttle bodies and the conventional induction is very similar. Again remove the input plenum and air filter to prevent damage and to make manoeuvring easier.


16

FW SPECIAL

Engine Insertion

Raise the engine horizontal on the crane and as near as possible to the front of the car. Lift the engine to just above the chassis. Lift high enough to ensure that when the engine swings that it will not hit anything. Set no higher than is necessary - for stability.

Manoeuvre the crane to straddle the front of the car and position the gearlever extension to align with the front of the scuttle panel.

Use the leveller to point the gearbox down towards the tunnel. Lower the crane very gently and progressively looking for collisions before they occur, keeping hands out of the way.


FW SPECIAL

Make a series of small descents and angle changes as the crane is pushed forward (towards the rear of the car) to guide the engine in.

Guide the gear-lever extension over the bearer panel. Use a strap or rope around it to lift - don’t put hands in harm’s way!

Next guide the Propshaft, lightly lubricated with

Lithium grease, into the back of the gearbox. Set the level of the engine carefully and this should be a cinch.

With the engine low in the bay re-insert the LHS engine bearer chassis bracket.

This is the engine just about in. The RHS engine bearer has been reconnected and the LHS bearer is located in its socket.


17

18

FW SPECIAL

And here, viewed from the

LHS. Take a good look at the whole installation looking for trapped items or any misalignment.

If all is okay, fix the rear gearbox mount mounting bolts and secure with the nuts underneath.

Next, the Engine bearer nuts may be fitted and torqued to

25lbft/33Nm

When it is installed it is a close fit!

Remove the load-leveller and then the crane.


FW SPECIAL

Optional gearbox filler hole

When the engine is inserted it is very difficult to access the gearbox filler hole. There are two options to (a) squeeze the oil in from below. Put the tube into the hole and bend it over and squeeze the oil from below and top-up whenever the bottle is empty. OR (b) make a hole in the panel and plug it with a blanking plug.

Note

DO NOT attempt to make this hole with a holesaw – it does not work in

Aluminium.

Use a chassis punch or a stepped cone drill and make the largest hole that the cone drill will accommodate and will also match a blanking plug.

Remember you will need this to be watertight. [The blanking plug is not supplied.] You could tape over with duct tape if you wish. It will be under carpet.

140mm

80mm

Figure 1 Gearbox oil filler hole option

19


20

FW SPECIAL

Engine connections

Spark-plugs and coil

Now it is time to connect the electrics to the engine. Ensure that the battery is not connected yet – leave the positive connection off completely to avoid any risks and keep the safety cover on the terminal.

This is how the HT leads are numbered – there is nothing to connect here and this is just included for reference.

The coil-pack is connected here on the LHS rear of the engine.


Air temperature sensor

FW SPECIAL

For the conventional induction, this is the position of the Air-temperature sensor.

On throttle-bodies it is located here on a flying lead. The sensor situated on the filter backplate.

21


22

FW SPECIAL

Crankshaft position sensor

LHS rear of the engine

Cam position sensor (NOT USED)

RHS rear of the engine

Coolant Temperature sensor

Front RHS above the alternator.


Throttle position sensor

[Normal induction engine]

RHS upper engine

And on throttle bodies….

FW SPECIAL

23


24

FW SPECIAL

Reverse switch

An adapter is supplied to connect to the loom.

Below this is the adapter being bundled in the transmission tunnel.

Temperature sender – temperature gauge

Rear LHS of engine on Hockey-stick cooling system pipe (to be fitted later)


FW SPECIAL

Idle motor connection

The conventional induction has an idle motor to control the tickover throttle opening, the throttle body uses the ECU control to establish a tickover and does not use an idle motor at all.

25

Idle motor

The idle motor is located on the inside face of the induction system.

The picture above taken from the underside of the intake.


26

FW SPECIAL

Cooling fan switch – fitted later

Fan switch

This is the cooling fan switch mounted directly into the radiator. This is not to be confused with the temperature sender which is at the rear of the engine and sends the temperature signal to the gauge independently.


Engine Earth Strap

Earth Strap on rear LHS of engine, pre-fitted. Connect to chassis earth stud. Ensure a good bare-metal contact

The Earth bonding point is at the rear LHS of Engine on upper diagonal cross-member.

FW SPECIAL


27

28

Alternator

Front RHS lower

FW SPECIAL

BROWN B+

BROWN

YELLOW D+

NOT CONNECTED W

Starter solenoid

Two plus one

BROWN

wires and the

RED

battery connection cable

WHITE RED

wire

Lower LHS Rear

Note: one of the brown spade terminals may need the terminal hole to be enlarged – use a stepped cone drill and hold in pliers or a vice to do it – slow and gentle because it is thin brass.


FW SPECIAL

Fuel Injector connections

This is the same for both the standard induction and the throttle bodies.

NOTE: the leads are paired 1/4 and

2/3 – use their lead length to determine their connection position.

Fitting the oil pressure sender

Lower RHS Engine Area

Remove the blanking plug and fit the sender with a small amount of PTFE tape it might interfere with the earth connection.

Apply the adapter provided using thread lock on both threads and fit as shown.

Original Sensor

NOT USED

Connection G


29

30

FW SPECIAL

Manifold fitting

To fit the manifold, the dipstick has to be removed and later replaced.

Undo the retaining nut on the bracket.

Pull away and upwards – the bottom of the tube is a push-fit Oring.

Remove the manifold gasket and its securing tape. Remove the gasket carefully – do not bend or crush.

Make sure that the bolts do not get mixed-up they have to be the right length or you will damage the head!

Apply the manifold with the gasket behind, attaching a centre bolt first. Gently and evenly tighten the bolts and then torque on the diagonals to 10lbft/14Nm


FW SPECIAL

Fitting the Scuttle Plate (OPTION POINT)

At this point the scuttle may already be fitted OR the option to fit is later may have been taken. This option point is linked to Part 1 Manual, Electrical stage 2 and the ECU fitting

(which may also have been delayed).

Fitting the plate at this late stage, allows all of the (soon to be hidden) cables to be stowed and routed neatly.

Clutch connection

The Clutch cable is routed around the engine bearer and back to the clutch actuator arm using the sleeves where the cable touches. Secure at one point with a cable-tie.

Do not forget the rubber grommet that is strapped to the actuator arm on delivery – it prevents the arm wearing away!

Adjust out the slack on the tensioning thread and then addback in about 3mm of freemovement to make sure the clutch is certainly disengaged at idle.

Then tighten the lock-nuts against each other to retain the adjustment.

31


32

FW SPECIAL

Fitting the throttle cable

This is how the throttle cable is routed on the standard induction. Note the quick release clip on the throttle butterfly actuator quadrant. The engine lifting hoop may be used as a tie-point if required. Route the cable forward and then to the RHS chassis edge and then down towards the throttle pedal. Pass through the panel and then through the trunnion. Cut the core to length if necessary. If the sheath is too long and the core is too short – see below under

Throttle shortening. cable-sheath

The trunnion centre hole may need to be drilled-out a little to pass the core.

Throttle cable sheath shortening

Or to put it another way - maybe you have plenty of sheath length but a shortage of core length.

Fix two nuts as shown positioned on the ferrule and set in a vice. Pull on the sheath and it will ease out of the crimp.

Pull out the core and then use a hacksaw to shorten the sheath.

Re-insert the core and thread through the ferrule, push home the sheath and the job is done. A small amount of heat shrink may be used to hold the cable within the ferrule if preferred.


PULL OUT

FW SPECIAL

Throttle body, Throttle cable installation

The installation is very similar but the throttle body needs more core length and may need the sheath modification above.

If the supplied cable is ball-ended (see below) make the modification detailed below or if barrel-ended just clip into the fork at the end of the quadrant.

NOTE: depending on the cable resistance, you achieve, it may be necessary to fit an auxiliary return spring (tension spring) because the compression spring above may not be enough to overcome the cable friction and it is essential to ensure that the throttle closes effectively. This is a custom modification so it is not covered here but it is fairly simple to achieve with a tension spring connected to the top of the quadrant and attached to a bracket to the left of the picture above.

You may also find you will need to replace the throttle ferrule with the one provided with the throttle bodies – a similar technique to the sheath shortening above.

This the simple mod for a ball-end cable – otherwise just slip-in the barrel fitting.

Note – With either of the cables fitted the operation of the throttle linkage must be checked making sure it has free range of movement.


33

34

FW SPECIAL

Completion Table

Comments

Start date Finish date Time


FW SPECIAL

19 Cooling system

TOOLS


Imperial Metric

Plumbers pipe-cutter

Spanners Spanners OR Hacksaw

Sockets Sockets

MATERIALS

Cooling pipe set

Rubber lined P clips

Fitting kit

Use a 7mm socket for the Jubilee clips

Offset Tee (Alu) Hockey Stick

(Alu) Large Y- piece (Alu)

Temperature sender

Radiator set & Switch

Chassis position On Axel stands – knee pads desirable here


People

1

Time

14 hrs

% Complete

71%

Well worth making trial layouts to understand it before cutting and fitting. Some of the views are not easy to understand so

General advice

plenty of alternatives are shown in this section and there is some repetition.

Cooling system, General

It is best to assemble all of the parts before commencing and identify each item positively.

Some of the pipes are actually a source of suitable bends and shapes - not all of the pipe is necessary.

This gives a degree of choice and some flexibility about how you pipes will look. A plumber’s pipe cutter is a good way to cut pipes cleanly - otherwise use a hacksaw.

The pipe routing from the bottom outlet of the radiator needs some care and attention to detail.

Many references are made to the component diagrams on Page 38 and the diagram on

Page 39. Put a marker on these pages because the references will be used many times.

When fixing the hoses, think carefully about future maintenance and ensure that the jubilee clips will be accessible when the body is fitted.

35


36

FW SPECIAL

6

A

4

5

B

To scuttle

C

1

Above scuttle plate

E1

E

H

Cut to suit heater connections

Figure 2 Cooling system parts explosion

16

15

14

12

13

K

7

I

J

2

E2

D

6

L

9

10

F

11

3

G

I

8


FW SPECIAL

Fit as high as possible short of colliding with nose cone

B

A

5

4

C

H1&2

If a heater is not installed, loop from

2 to 6

37

Cap-off the spigot underneath facing this way

1 2

7

6

E1

D

I

F

L

Bend J S-bend must be routed to avoid collision with the steering rack gaiter

J

I

E2

K1

3

G

Figure 3 Cooling system simplified assembly diagram


38

FW SPECIAL


FW SPECIAL


39

40

FW SPECIAL

Radiator fitting

Fit the Horn now

If you have not already done so, fit the horn as it is harder to do once the radiator is fitted. Secure the horn to the chassis on the brackets provided, using:

•

1 off 6mm x 20mm bolt

•

1 off 6mm spring washer

•

1 off 6mm repair washer

Connect the wiring loom to the horn.

Alternatively

- top fix the horn

Tap the hole or use a Rivsert. Two brackets are better than one.

The views are of the front LHS of the chassis OR to you right when facing the front of the chassis.

Fit the fan switch

Fit the fan switch as shown. Use a couple of turns of PTFE plumber’s tape to gain a seal and nip-up tight against the washer provided. DO NOT over- tighten it – fragile thread.

DO NOT trap PTFE under the washer.


FW SPECIAL

Radiator build-up

Assemble the fan onto the mounting plates as shown using 4 off 6mm bolts and nyloc nuts. The folded flange on the plate faces the radiator.

These are the parts you will need

41

From the Radiator kit find these parts and assemble as shown below.

The lower bolts will be removed again to mount it so just loosely tighten the lower nuts for now.


42

FW SPECIAL

Use the provided screws to mount the bracket on the upper radiator mount. The picture below shows the relative orientation of the radiator.

Place the radiator centrally onto the top chassis rail. It is best to hold the radiator in place with clamps whilst making it central.

Using a 4.1mm drill bit, drill through the six mounting holes into the top chassis tube.

Rivet in-place using 4.0mm body rivets.

Take care not to crush the radiator fins - they are very fragile


FW SPECIAL

Remove the plain washer and replace it with a M6 repair washer then secure the radiator to the lower mounts. Remove the bolts from the lower frame fixings.

Note: removing part of the washer may be needed in order to clear the mount. (Appearances may vary).

Connect the fan switch wires and the fan supply.

43

There are two small radiator spigot to be blanked-off at the top and bottom of the radiator.

Use a cap-head screw and silicone as shown. Carefully from the thread with the screw held perpendicular to the spigot and drive it home.


44

FW SPECIAL

Bottom radiator connection

See p38 & p39 for references

The “S”-bend will touch the chassis but as there is no movement that is okay provided that the pipe diameter is not grossly reduced. The T-piece tube (L) that connects to this must then rise at angle and the tubes and joints must clear: the chassis where it might move (friction wear), the front in-board anti-roll bar (if fitted) and the steering rack bellows. It also need to be held securely in a rubber-lined clip and the elbow (I) to the pump needs to be correctly positioned.

So the rule here is to leave everything loose until the complete assembly is built and then start to clamp-up. Expect to do this a few times to gain the best result.

This is the first hose connection to the lower spigot of the radiator. It is positioned to pass over the steering rack gaiter. This may be a rubber or Silicone hose. Fix with a

40mm jubilee clip but only tighten when the next connection has been made

J

L

Right way

Oops inaccessible body fitted when

Jubilee-Clip drive-screw facing up, difficult but achievable.

Looking down from the top-centre of the radiator towards the bottom hose. This keeps the fastener accessible when the body is fitted.


FW SPECIAL

This hose connects into the T piece with the leg of the Tee (L) facing upwards,

On the back of the

Tee. Connect the right angle hose (I) to the water pump using 40mm jubilee clips at either end.

The pipe length may need to be adjusted to prevent kinks and the wider pipe collar may not be necessary for the pump so just remove it.

These are views with the body fitted to show the finished result.

The T-piece is then secured on the outside of the chassis with a rubberlined clip. Here a spare piece of rubber tube has been used to sleeve the 40mm clip and to ensure firm grip without friction or vibration.

I

Connection point 10

(12mm) connected by pipe K cut to size)

Loose-fit the Scuttle

As it is a while before the bodywork is going to be fitted, the scuttle needs to be loosely positioned to set-up the pipes. The final position is determined by the bodywork and everything is referenced to the hinge that fits the nosecone. Ultimately, all parts of the body are located from that datum point. Loose fitting is good enough for now though.

45


FW SPECIAL

If the Scuttle is placed on the top of the chassis there may be three points of conflict.

46

The first is the lower edge of the front colliding with the steering column. It will in duecourse be necessary to cut a mouse-hole to accommodate it and it will be necessary to consider before doing that how it is intended to make it air and water-tight afterwards.

Also the inside-rear returns may well collide with the dashboard hoop. It is well worth mounting the dash on the support tines to assess the correct position. Use a rasp or power-file to remove excess material. There is not much to risk in doing this because this part is never visible – just ensure that at least a vestige of the return remains (so that no gap appears on the outside) and use a rasp pushing from decorative face to coarse face to prevent flaking the surface. Alternatively you can use a Dremell power tool option.

For guidance, the front lower edge of the scuttle will finish about 200mm from the front edge of the scuttle-plate. This makes sure that the mouse-hole height is about right.

Cut out for the upper steering column

This is how the heater pipes will appear through the scuttle when using the heater option.

The grommets are custom and are not part of the kit.

And this is the steering column relief marked-up. being


FW SPECIAL

Useful views

These are major parts of the thermostat housing from LHS above and RHS below see below.

47

See for references


48

FW SPECIAL

Fitting the Aluminium pipes

See & for references

Pipes (D) and (F) are best fitted at the same time to ensure they both align properly.

They both run along the left-hand side top rail with (D) towards the outside and (F) towards the inside. As before, make up the whole assembly loose before committing to making fixings. Cut hoses too long and then reduce progressively.

(D) Connection (1) will route to the underside of the Expansion vessel so that determines the

D

F

F

D

F

Non heater option (D) with

Temperature

vertical position of the underside spigot and thus the vessel itself. (D) Connection 2 is routed to the lower hose from the heater (if fitted) and should align with the hose or the factory drilled holes. The downward bend at

(D3) will connect to the upwards facing limb of the Tee (J), connected by a cut portion of pipe (K).

Heater option


D

FW SPECIAL

Tape 3-way tube (D) into place to assist with layout. Cut a piece of 32mm hose (E2) circa

200mm long to locate pipe (J) on the top spigot of the radiator. Check for alignment with major spigot on the thermostat housing and use another piece of pipe (E), (E1) to make the connection. It should be about 100mm long and then reduce the length to fit it.

Leave it all loose at this point and fix it later. (The sender wires may need to be extended.)

Making the top heater hose connection

See the next section for the heater bypass if the heater is not fitted.

H

H

Two pipes type (H) are provided as a kind of kit to make the connections to the heater.

This pipe has several pre-formed bends so it is possible to choose the best sections to make the connections.

As (F) is loose-fitted it may be pulled apart at any time for improved access. Route the pipe from the top heater hose connection to the underside of the thermostat housing facing (6) the left-hand side. Select the best shape and length to make the connection and cut to oversize and then whittle it down to give the ideal fit. Re-attach the hockeystick (F) to test the fit. Leave it loose at this stage.

Now address the lower heater hose. Choose a straight section for this and cut to length to meet (D2) and loose fit it to (2) on the Y piece.

Heater bypass (when a heater is not fitted)

If the heater is not fitted, the circuit has to be replaced by a link pipe. A connection needs to be made from (D2) to the spigot (6) on the underside of the thermostat housing facing the left-hand side. The shaped part of tube (H) will be useful to make these connections.

(See previous page picture).


49

50

FW SPECIAL

Mounting and connecting the expansion tank

The scuttle has not been fitted at this point so it will need to be temporarily mounted to identify the fitting position - above connection (1) on the Y tube as shown in on Page 38.

The expansion tank needs to be fitted as high as the bonnet will allow.

If not sure, leave this operation until the body and bonnet are fitted or look ahead to chapter 22

Bodywork Page 69

Final assembly

Front of engine

Referring to Page 38 & Page 39.

When sure that the assembly works, it is time to make the final assembly but expect that small adjustments to pipe lengths will be necessary.

Lay-in pipe D and connect each pipe with a jubilee clip placed so that it

K

H

may be easily serviced in future.

Make the vertical connection from

I

L J

the descending part of pipe (D) to the upstanding Tee piece from pipe (L) with a cut section from rubber pipe (K). Next fit the water pump pipe (I) making sure the Jubilee clips are accessible after body assembly.


FW SPECIAL

Rear of Engine

Hockey-stick to Engine

Connect the hockey-stick pipe (I) to Spigot (F) via 32mm hose section (E1) using two jubilee clips.

Insert the temperature sender using a couple of turns of PTFE tape to gain a seal. (It may be necessary to extend the connecting wires depending on how the loom has been routed).

F

Make certain that there is a good earth to the sender base via the eyelet washer because this is the only possible earth path!

I

Fit a rubber line clip to the pipe on the top cross member near the radiator. Use a threaded insert or tap directly into the chassis.

Fit another on the rear cross member

Y piece to Heater and Expansion tank

Make the connection at the radiator end to pipe (K) from Tee (L) and lay the tube across the scuttle-plate (If you have optioned not to fit it yet then now is the time to do it) and mount using two rubber lined clips as shown above. Temporarily make the connections to the Heater (if fitted if not make the bypass connection) and to the Expansion tank.

51


52

FW SPECIAL

Overflow Return-pipe

Use pipe (C) from the Expansion tank horizontal spigot (5) to the upstand spigot on the thermostat housing (7) and fasten with a jubilee clips at either end.

7

5

Capping-off unused spigots

Cap off two spigots.

Cooling system checks

It is now wise to check all joints and that all components have been fitted and then trial fill the system before it is pressurised later. Inspect all joints to look for leaks –

so much better to find them now than under pressure at full temperature!

The expansion tank and heater hoses will need to be disconnected when removing the scuttle ready for body fitting so do not bother about filling with anti-freeze at this stage.


FW SPECIAL


Comments



53

54

FW SPECIAL

20 Pre-build-up work and tests

TOOLS

MATERIALS


Imperial Metric

Brake bleeding set (options) Brake fluid

Spanners Spanners Miniature 8mm ring spanner Lubricants if not already used

Sockets Sockets

Chassis position On axel stands (best) or wheels


People

2

Time

7 hrs

% Complete

74 %

General advice

Brake-bleeding and checks in this section. It is worth being careful with the checks – anything wrong is easily corrected at this stage but more difficult later.

Introduction

Brake bleeding

Brake fluid selection

There are two groups of brake fluid – the common polyethylene glycol based fluid or

“glycol” colloquially and the alternative Silicone.

Polyethylene glycol arrives under different temperature performance ratings and is known as any of the following: DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1.

Silicone is DOT 5 and not to be confused with DOT 5.1 which is “glycol”.

In either case, the increasing number is about its temperature rating. For high performance cars and certainly for racing the highest performance is desirable.

Choosing between Glycol and Silicone is a day-one choice because they are not compatible in the system and switching from one to the other afterwards will destroy the brake seals.

DOT 3 is a base-grade and is not worth the risk with its low performance. DOT4 is the modern-day standard for most saloons and has a good temperature rating.

(Supplied as Standard). DOT 5.0 Silicone and DOTE 5.1 are both high performance grades suitable for racing but there is one other differences worth noting. Glycols are


FW SPECIAL

hygroscopic and will absorb water over time – they need to be changed frequently because the water content will degrade the temperature rating and decreases braking ability (spongy pedal). Silicone based fluids are hydrophobic and cannot take up water so the viscosity index is more stable.

DOT 5 cannot be used with anti-lock braking systems but that is a saloon car type of issue.

So how do they compare?

Boiling point ranges

DOT 3

DOT 4

DOT 5

Dry boiling point Wet boiling point

205 °C (401 °F) 140 °C (284 °F)

230 °C (446 °F) 155 °C (311 °F)

260 °C (500 °F)

180 °C (356 °F)

DOT 5.1 260 °C (500 °F) 180 °C (356 °F)

Why a wet boiling point for DOT5 - something that is hydrophobic? Even Silicone will mis-perform if there is latent water in the system. But presuming there is not, then only the upper rating applies.

DOT 5 is a silicone-based brake fluid (contains at least 70% by weight of a di-organo polysiloxane).

•

The car is supplied with DOT 4 glycol which is fine for everyday use.

•

Don’t choose DOT 3 it isn’t worth the risk.

•

If you wish to use the quite expensive DOT 5 Silicone that is what you will always use.

•

If you use Glycol that is what you will always use.

•

Glycol needs to be changed every two years – Silicone lasts until the next major brake repair so likely it will last ten years.

The only other point is that Silicone needs to be bled carefully as it can take up some foamy air while bleeding. See below for advice.

55


56

FW SPECIAL

Brake bleeding systems

Conventional method

The old-fashioned way needs two people.

•

Fill reservoir

•

Pump a little and top-up

•

Open furthest bleed valve and via pipe pump fluid and air into a jar.

•

Hold brake pedal down on the last stroke and tighten bleed nipple

•

Repeat for each nipple ending with the shortest run

•

Repeat circuit until the fluid is clear of air and the brake pedal feels rock-hard

This picture shows the nipple on Westfield 4-pot

(upgrade) callipers. On the rear brakes there are four nipples and each must be bled starting with the lower nipples. Replace the dust caps when finished. The nipples are best opened with a tiny

8mm ring spanner to avoid rounding the corners.

Semi-automatic, one person methods

As can be seen it is not possible to be at the nipple and the brake pedal at the same time so there are automatic brake-bleeding systems. They rely on either pressure feeding from the master cylinder or by sucking from the nipple end. Most professional systems are the latter and expensive.


Simple systems like the Gunsons

“Easy Bleed” are cheap and effective. That uses a reservoir at the cylinder-end to stop the Master cylinder running dry and taking in air. That one uses tyre pressure

(at 20 psi) to provide the pressure

– very simple and one-person operation.

Here is the reservoir placed next to the Master Cylinder and a pressurised cap is applied in place of the normal cap. The input pressure line descends over the side to a tyre as a source of pressure (limit to 20 PSI)

FW SPECIAL

57


58

FW SPECIAL

Releasing residual air

Known in the trade as the “Final Air

Release Technique” (or its acronym)

- it is very simple.

Make a wooden batten to press the brake pedal down hard for 24 hours and brace it against the rear bulkhead top-rail. The pedal will often harden from that action alone. If not perfect, bleed (a little) again and the odd small bubble will vent. Job done.

This picture shows the bulkhead panel fitted from the next chapter so it may not look like this.

Checks before fitting the wheels

Tick the checks as you go.

Braking system

Apply pressure to the brakes and sustain it – use a friend or your batten as above. Visit each and every union, joint and bleed nipple to look for seepage.

•

Three unions, Front, Brake switch and Rear (torch required and possible a long reach mirror)

•

All four of the flexible brake lines, both ends


FW SPECIAL

•

A visual pass slowly each of the brake lines (crack or pin-holes)

•

The brake master cylinder unions

•

The brake callipers (cylinder leakage?)

•

Brake fluid level correct?

•

Brake level low switch connections made

This is a worthy 10 minute investment for safety. If you find a leak a tweak on the union usually fixes it. Wipe away any residue then check again a day later.

Electrical

Simple again but these could save much time and anguish later.

•

Battery should be terminals forward towards engine with Red +ve to the LHS of the car

•

Positive may be connected at this stage but Negative should be disconnected at the battery and tied back safely.

•

Ensure that the Safety caps are closed over the terminals – may need to shape

•

Visual check along the whole loom. No traps, no pinch points, nothing loose or flailing, no cuts or damage. Nothing should trap or collide with moving parts. All parts liable to friction are protected with a sleeve.

•

All parts necessary for servicing are accessible

•

Check all of the wires into the fuse blocks are tight –

risk of sliding a tang under the plastic rather than into the spade connector – hard to detect by any other means.

•

Fuses are home and secure.

•

Connectors are strapped where they should be located.

•

All possible loom connections are made (no dash yet)

•

Check all sensor connections including the speedometer sensor on the front wheel.

•

Check alternator – correct connections and that they are secure

•

Check starter solenoid and ensure the terminals tight

•

Check the fuel cut-off – press down on the top to ensure the connector ball is in contact – or the car will not start because the pump will be isolated.


59

60

FW SPECIAL

•

Check the polarity on the fuel pump - Light Green/White to +ve, Black (ground) to –ve (chassis).

•

Check the fuel level sender connections

•

Make a splash-test on the battery. Momentarily touch the chassis earth to the negative terminal – there should be no spark. If there is, some fault finding is required.

If there is a big spark check that the battery is the right polarity!

•

Finally check for tidiness – are you satisfied with appearance – change now while it is still possible.

Fuel system

•

The fuel pump has already been electrically checked above

•

Check the fuel lines in strict sequence

•

Connections to tank are secure

•

Fuel line routing to pump is secure, protected from abrasion and secure on pump. Fuel pipe has been used and the marking is visible. True for all rubber hoses from here.

•

Check pump output to filter INLET and the OUTLET to solid fuel pipe.

•

Check both fuel lines to the engine bay. Supported, no contacts, sleeves where there is an abrasion risk. Supply pipe to fuel rail connection is secure.

•

Supply rail to regulator secure and regulator to return pipe secure and tied-down.

•

Return line to tank has already been visually inspected so go to rearward connection to the return fuel pipe. Ensure this pipe cannot be ruptured by suspension parts.

•

Check that the return union is secure

•

Check the Tank breather Pipe is in-place with a rising and then desending loop just above the tank, tied but not crushed and secured at the tank.

•

Safety cap is on the tank

•

Tank straps are secure and foam buffering underneath is effective

Lubricants

•

Differential filled and plug secure, no leaks

•

Gearbox filled, cap secure and no leaks

•

Engine oil filled and correct level, checking remodelled dipstick at the same time.


FW SPECIAL

Trial Connect the battery

•

Try the power splash test now if it was not performed above – no spark when the ground is momentarily connected.

•

Leave the chassis connection disconnected at the battery

•

Make sure the safety cover is over the positive terminal.

Hubs check

•

Look at each hub for anything untoward

•

Shake each joint to make sure it is nipped-tight (not torqued at this stage)

•

Inspect he position and potential vulnerability of the flexible brake lines

Fit the wheels

•

Fit the wheels

•

Torque the fixing nuts to 65lbft/Final Torque

•

Pump tyres to 20-psi (1.38 Bar or 1.4 Kgf/cm

2

)


Comments



61

62

FW SPECIAL

21 Panelling

Spanners/Sockets

TOOLS

Other Tools

Imperial Metric

Rivet Gun

None None Drill and 4/4.1mm drill bit

Caulking gun

MATERIALS

4mm Pop Rivets, mush. head

Inside, panels

Outside panels

Bulkhead panel

Trade or baby-wipes

Silicone

Chassis position Inverted on trestles.


People

1 or 2

Time

14 hrs

% Complete

79 %

This may be physically tiring – there are a lot of holes to be drilled and some breaks may be necessary. You will be far better using Carbide drills – they last 10 times longer for just

General advice

twice the price. One drill is likely to drill all of the holes before dulling. Dip you drill-bit in cutting fluid for each hole for extended life.

General

This is where the car really takes shape. Progress towards the end result is rapid now with much to show for less effort.

Seat Bulkhead

Locate these panels:

Blanking plate

Seat Bulkhead


FW SPECIAL

It will be necessary to bow the bulkhead panel vertically forwards along the vertical centre-line in order to insert it. Bow it just enough to flex the corners into the frame and then let it spring back into position.

Clamp it in position ensuring that there is just enough space either side of the transmission tunnel to fit the tunnel sidings.

Drill the 4/4.1mm holes, again locating the corners first and inserting rivets as locating dowels. Insert rivets as you go to hold it secure and to ensure each hole is properly drilled. When all are drilled remove the locating rivets, pull the panel forward or out and apply Silicone sealant to the crossmember faces.

Push the panel back and insert the corner rivets first. Apply and fasten rivets from the centre and work outwards ensuring that the panel is pressed firmly down before forming the rivets.

Pop-rivets and cutting fluid

The 40mm blanking plugs may now be inserted in the holes but it may be wise to omit the wishbone access hole until after set-up is completed and all of the bolts are torqued. Also, now is a good time to fit the blanking plate over the unused seat-belt holes if the four-point harness has been selected. Use six to eight rivets and sealant.

Note: the seatbelt holes are deliberately offset.

63


64

FW SPECIAL

Transmission tunnel sides

These are next and must tuck into the seat bulkhead.

Place both in position to ensure they both fit then commence fastening one. Ensure that the seat-belt anchorage are clear and clamp in position while drilling - corners first again.

Remove the panel and apply the silicone. Wipe-off any excess with white spirit and a rag or a Trade-wipe or baby-wipe. Apply the panel and insert the corner locating rivets but again set the rivets from the centre outwards. Repeat for the other side.

Figure 4 Panel, Tunnel side and upper top


FW SPECIAL

Tunnel Top-Panels

The tunnel top-panels are made up of three parts with mounting holes pre-cut.

First, locate the smallest panel and place it on to the tunnel. Note that the holes are offset.

Slide the handbrake panel over the handbrake then under the small panel.

Place the last panel with two holes in it onto the tunnel and slide it under

3 panel tunnel top set

Figure 5 Transmission tunnel Panels top-set

the handbrake panel.

Position the panels and when satisfied, drill through the pre-cut holes into the chassis with a 4.1mm bit.

Remove the panel with the holes in it and mark a line between the second and third mounting-holes. The panel now needs to be cut along this line. This is to enable the panel to be fitted around the wiring loom.

NOTES:

Cut the top panel as shown by the dotted line (Figure 5), cutting right through Fixing-hole number three - counting from the bottom. This makes fitting the gear-lever much easier.

It is also possible and perhaps desirable to cut through the centre of the wiring loom holes. This makes it really easy to fit the loom dash-panel branch.

The LHS hole is not used so that may be taped over with Duct tape or Aluminium tape.

Tape from both sides and bond the faces together through the hole to make a really good bond.


65

66

FW SPECIAL

It is wise to screw fix the rest of the panels to facilitate future maintenance. Drill clearance holes for M5 screws and tap the chassis. Alternatively use self-tapping screws.


Outside panels

The outside panels are a virtually identical process.

These panels need to bow around the chassis crank so it is wise to put a sharp bend in the panel rather than to let it bow – it will sit better.

Just crease it over a wooden batten at the marked location

FW SPECIAL

67


68

FW SPECIAL

Inside Panels

These are leather-cloth covered and depending on what you still have to do you might want to leave these until near the end of your build to avoid the risk of being scratched. Use the black rivets provided.


Start date

Comments

Finish date Time


FW SPECIAL

22 Bodywork

TOOLS

MATERIALS


Imperial Metric

G-clamps and quick-clamps Fitting kits

Side panels, rear wings, boot

Spanners Spanners File or grinder section, nose cone, boot liner and lid

Sockets Sockets Vice

Power-file (optional)

Boot locks

Roll-over bar

Chassis position

Drill-set and counternsink bit Front wings and kit

Cone drill Fuel filler cap and hose

Wet and dry paper Windscreen and side arms

Overtaking mirrors

Body only on trestles or a wide table initially then when mounting the body on the car, use on axel stands


People

2

Time

28 hrs

% Complete

89 %

This is the longest duration event but covers all of the

General advice

bodywork in one chapter – two people are close to essential here but one person can work alone at a slower pace.

General

Checks

Time spent here performing checks is a good investment. It is easy to correct issues at his stage and checks at this stage will prevent mistakes being made.

Check for trap-points

Look-over the whole chassis to identify any places that wiring or out of place materials might become trapped by the body on assembly.

Fuel tank centring

The fuel tank needs to be set dead-centre so that the filler is in exactly the right place.

Ensure that the tank is perfectly placed and that there is no risk of a wishbone colliding with the tank on full excursion of the suspension. Ensure the filler neck is dead-centre and take a measurement from the bulkhead face to the centre of the neck and write it down.

This will be your only

69


70

FW SPECIAL

reference to the centre when the body is in-place. Mark a dot with a fine felt-tip pen at absolute dead-centre of the protective cap on the tank. This will be used for sighting later on.

Measure seat-belt fixing centres

Similarly, the positions of the seat-belt fixing bosses need to be located precisely. Measure from the datum at dead centre of the bulkhead and from the bulkhead face to the centre of the boss.

Take care to be exact, millimetres count here

Roll-bar fixing centres

The standard roll-bar is measures in a similar way. Measure the exact centres of the bar and measure 65mm from the front of the bulkhead to the mounting plate. Mark the position on each side for the hole centre as exactly half of the bar fixing centre where it intersects with the 65mm dimension. Mark a cross on tape or punch a clear centre hole.

This mark will be used when sighting the hole-centre by drilling through the body – the centre mark will be the best way to correct any small inaccuracy later.

Fuel pipe positions under chassis

Any pipe routed under the chassis at the rear stands a small risk of colliding with the body rear-panel which tucks under the chassis when fitted. Trial fit the rear panel to look for any collision point before fitting the body.

Set-up

With the measurements now taken and recorded it is time to set-up for body assembly.

This best performed outside unless you have an abundance of space under cover. The body is best worked-on at chest height so that it is possible to see over the top and work underneath the wheel-arches.

The best way to do this is to start on the ground then set-up two trestles with battens set wide enough to support the assembled body – circa 1.3m or wider. Some help here will be invaluable because it is so much easier to have an assistant than to clamp everything in place. But even with an assistant, it is important that once the ideal position has been achieved that clamps should be used to hold it while drilling fixing holes.


FW SPECIAL

Building the body

Start by working in the ground on a protected flat surface.

Locate a side panel against the rear panel and position it carefully such that the edges align. Use clamps on the underside to hold it in place. Repeat for the other side.


71

72

Next, present the rear wings and align all outside edges until they are perfectly aligned and then repeat on the other side.

FW SPECIAL


FW SPECIAL

When everything is in perfect alignment it is best to mount the whole assembly on trestles to make drilling and bolting easy – this will take two people at least to make lifting risk free.

Once on the trestles check that nothing has moved and all of your clamps are still tight. Clamp it in position to avoid accidents or damage.

Make the side panel to boot section fastening first. Use the 6mm setscrews in the fitting kit with a penny washer on each side. It will be necessary to shape some of the washers where they collide with a curve. Simply bend-up a lip in a vice as shown below or file or grind them into a

“D”

Below is a close-up detail of the body to rear wing fixing method.

Here the view is from the inside where the RHS panel meets the rear section. One bolt only is required into the vertical joint because the bolts either side through the wheel-arch hold this joint stable. Here, only a bolt to the right hand side has been fitted, another will be fitted to the left in the lip of the body panel.

Now add more fixings at about 120-150 mm spacing

73


74

FW SPECIAL

on each wing being very careful to ensure that nothing has moved.

If anything has moved remove the offending fastenings and ease the hole a little and re-tighten.

Mounting the body on the chassis

This operation requires two people.

The lip on the underside of the rear body-panel will clip underneath the chassis.

The body is fitted by clipping the lip under the rear of the chassis with the body angles upwards at about 45 degrees and then rotating downwards and then easing it onto the chassis very carefully using still wallpaper scrapers or similar – several will be required. Tyre levers will also work well and large screwdrivers are possible but be very careful not to apply too much point pressure or it will flake the gel-coat.


FW SPECIAL

75

Figure 6 Fitting the body to the chassis

Clip the return of the rear body

Possible pinch point panel under the rear of the chassis and lower the assembly as shown above.

Ease the sides out gently to allow the side returns to pass down the side of the chassis.

May need relief here

Note that where the notch is cut around the Dash-hoop, it may be tight and some careful manipulation might be required

- do not force it past. If it will not pass consider removing the body and relieving it a little or try moving the rear return a little and trying again.


76

FW SPECIAL

Clip the top-rails on all the way along the side of the chassis and where or if possible, under the chassis as well – do not use excessive force.

It is likely that one side of the wheel-arch-Side fitting will clip directly on the chassis without too much easement but the other side will then need careful manipulation to ease it on as shown. Use thick bladed wallpaper scrapers or less desirably screwdrivers or tyre levers to assist this. Be very careful not to add too much pointforce to the leverage point or the gel-coat may fracture.

Figure 7 Body fitting technique


These two photos show the body correctly positioned.

At the stage the body should be fully clipped-on but don’t attempt to finally fasten it yet until the scuttle and nose-cone are fully aligned.

Figure 8 Body positioning

FW SPECIAL

Position adjustment fore & aft

Variable gap

77

Next, place the scuttle on the locating blocks then locate the nose cone also on its locating blocks.

IMPORTANT: The point where the underside front edge of the nose cone meets the hinge will be the datum point for the whole body assembly. The nose-cone locates the side panels and thus the scuttle sitting on top of that. Spend plenty of time making all of the fits perfect before making any fixings.


78

FW SPECIAL

Nosecone fitting

Support here to prevent pivoting

Figure 9 Nosecone trial positioning

Datum = hinge point

In

Figure 10 Nosecone hinge location

, (below), it shows the positioning and orientation of nosecone.

Wriggle the scuttle to make sure it is settled on its locating blocks. Insert packing pieces as shown in Figure 9 so that there is a level spacing gap along the length of the nosecone at 2-3mm evenely from front to rear. Trying to fit the nosecone too tightly may cause it to spring or distort.

There are 3 options for the nosecone hinge. The standard item is shown last.

The hinge could be fitted as shown in the break-back (270degree opening) position such that the butt protrudes outwards and the hinge wings fit close to the chassis member and to the nosecone face.

Open the hinge by 270 degrees


FW SPECIAL

NOTE: If it is intended to apply any finishes inside the nose, now is the time to do it – before fitting.

Figure 10 Nosecone hinge location

The next part is not easy and requires some care to get it right.

This technique might not work depending on the body position – the screw fixing shown may not fit into the crotch of the nose cone as illustrated. The kit cannot cover all of the permutations so it may be necessary to purchase some custom fixings here. Use 3.5-4.0mm countersunk set screws with nyloc nuts and spreader washers for the best result. The spreader washers may be substituted by a metal strip or angle to improve rigidity.


79

80

FW SPECIAL

If the nose cone fits higher, the hinge dimension will not be enough and the screw position will be impossible.

If this is the case, the hinge must be fitted in the conventional mode but it will be harder to fix.

The hinge may be fitted to the nosecone by screws as shown below (see Figure 11 & Figure 12) but then it necessary to fit the nosecone stood vertically to open it enough to drill the holes into the chassis rail. Ensure that you predrill the hinge before mounting it on the nosecone or it will be a very tough job in-situ.

When the nosecone is correctly fitted there will be 5mm gap from the chassis in two directions.

Use Velcro strip on the top of the chassis to provide a buffer against contact.


FW SPECIAL

Figure 11 Alternative nosecone hinge arrangement

Pop Rivets

PAD

Further alternatives – a bigger hinge but still used in break-back (270 degree) position

Figure 12 Alternative

(larger) nosecone hinge

Here the nosecone is rotated right over with the chassis raised on high axel stands to allow the full movement. If fitted, it is best to remove the radiator for this method. The chassis fitting should be pop-rivets but the nosecone should be screwed. The holes can then be slotted to gain the best final position.


81

82

FW SPECIAL

Fitting the standard Tee hinge

As standard, a T hinge is provided and the butt is mounted under the front chassis rail and the tail under the inclined nose cone. This make a very strong hinge and offers versatility in its fitting.

It is likely that the nosecone will not align with the lower edge of the chassis rail exactly so it will be necessary to crank the hinge to suit. Use penny washers on the underside and fix with screws to make it easy to remove.

This is how a cranked-hinge fits. When complete is it invisible because it is so close to the ground

Figure 13 Nosecone Tee hinge standard method

Checking body alignment

Now that the nosecone is fitted it will align the whole body. Close the nosecone and press-down to ensure it goes fully home on the locating blocks. If not, wriggle the body until it does. Now spend some time truing-up the body parts until from every angle it looks perfect.


FW SPECIAL

Check that:

The nosecone and sides align from front to rear

The horizontal gap is even front to rear

The gap between the rear body section and the rear bulkhead is even left to right

Viewed from the front the sidings are vertical and symmetrical

The locating blocks go fully home – if not fettle-off any moulding imperfections until it does.

Fixing the body part 1

Lift the nosecone and check that nothing has moved from its intended position. Drill a

4mm hole into the side panel top edge ensuring that it passes into the centre of the chassis rail. Use a large Pop-rivet and insert a fastening in the rear of the panel near to the scuttle and the same for the other side and crush it. Check the alignment again and then repeat for the other side. Close the look and inspect again. If anything is slightly out of line it is possible to drill-out the pop-rivet and slot the hole in the fibreglass and then try again.

Best to get it right now than to repeat this with multiple rivets!

Fixing the scuttle

If the steering column relief has not been created it must be performed now

The scuttle may need further relieving around the Dash-rail as shown below such that the return fits snugly.

Lift-off the scuttle and mark the fixing holes with masking tape and a pen on the inside of the chassis rails. Replace the scuttle and transfer the location marks onto the scuttle inside returns and measure across the centre mark.

Remove the scuttle again and drill oversize holes for 6mm set-screws 8mm gives plenty of tolerance (the mounting blocks set the location). Trial fit and bolt-down. Insert the set-screws and washers and bolt-down evenly. Check alignment again and check the closure of the nosecone by pressing down on top. If it looks okay, remove it and then

83


84

FW SPECIAL

Silicone around the entire under-edge – this is your protection against water ingress if it rains so be thorough.

It is wise to run the set-screws in by hand initially to check that there is no problem with the threaded insert. If it binds then it can spin and leave a set-screw stuck half way in. If it binds or spins remove the screw and use the setting tool to tighten it a little more.

Fixing the rear body

The rear body is supported using this mounting bracket.

Below is the bracket in use but slightly modified to fix on just the centre two spars. Use pop rivets on the spars but use se9tscrews with spreader washers to the body panel) to aid easy removal (if need be) in future, while preserving the reference position.

Figure 14 Rear body panel mounting bracket fixing


FW SPECIAL

Support the body gently to take away any sag from its self-weight and measure an even distance to the floor and from the chassis rail (because the suspension may not be fully level at this point to the chassis is the best reference).

The rear may also be fixed using additional brackets on the outer rails for more stability.

Fixing the body part 2

The body may be fully fixed now.

NOTE: No fixings are made in the top returns of the side panels where the elbow pads fit to the left and right of the driver. The inner lining panels, when fitted later, will make the fixings in the inside of the chassis rails.

Check once again that everything looks true then proceed to fix using countersunk or large-head pop rivets to the top rail working backwards from the front rivet at equal centres, not greater than 230mm. Repeat for the other side. Then do the same for the underside but also go back along the full length of the underside to the rear arch. The body is now fixed. The preferred method is to use countersunk rivet on the upper fixings and large-head rivets on lower, underside fixings.

Fitting the spats and headlamp bracket

The spats provide a decorative and practical edge to the front wheelapertures and make a concealed mounting for the headlight.

85


86

Start by taping the body

FW SPECIAL

Finished appearance

Headlamp brackets

(Underside)

Mark around the desired position


FW SPECIAL

Offer-up the spat and find the best position. Mark the location and datum points when you are satisfied.

87

Hold the headlight bracket in-place underneath the spat and ensure that the headlamp mounting hole will sit in the centre of the spat.

When satisfied, mark the exact position.

Some fettling to make it it may be necessary.


88

FW SPECIAL

A concealed countersunk screw may be fitted in the underside return where it cannot be seen or you might choose to use a large head poprivet.

.

The easiest way to shape the spat is to use a powerfile if you can afford or borrow one – it is fast and controllable.

Use 80-120 grit so that it will not clog.

Otherwise use a sharp file and coarse carborundum paper but be certain to mask the front in case of any accidental slips. The other alternative is a Dremell

Multi tool.


FW SPECIAL

A couple of pop-rivets may be used on the rear of the spat. Make sure to fit spreader washers on the inside to avoid stress cracking later in life. Or use peel rivets which will not stress the

GRP.

The spat is best fitted to the body using Fat-

Head fasteners and then fibreglassing them onto the rear.

Mark the position of the fastener on the back of the spat and then contour it to fit the profile and temporarily bond it using super-glue or mastic adhesive. If it is the later ensure it is completely bonded before covering it (4-12 hrs)

Next, fibreglass over the head and keep the thread masked and thus clean.

89

Wait 2-4 hours before fixing to be sure it is set. Keep it in a warm place to set faster.


90

FW SPECIAL

Carefully present it to the body with the tips of the threads paint marked, to transfer their position (or measure the positions) and drill over-size holes. Oversize does not matter because they will never be seen again. Use large spreader washers on the inside.

Temporarily fix the spat and make any adjustments that are necessary. When satisfied fit the headlamp bracket. Make sure it is tight against the body and fit two screws from below (washers on the inside) and the set screw from the outside with a penny washer behind. The bracket or the spat may need a little fettling to get the fit just right.

The aim is to get the headlamp hole right in the centre. The drill a centre hole for the connecting cable to pass through.

Repeat the process for the other side.

An offset like this will prevent the headlamp stem fitting


FW SPECIAL

Indicator pods

Tape and mark the indicator pods as shown, 130mm down from the body crease-line and then 130mm back from the front edge of the nose.

Drill the holes in the body as shown to match the pitch of the indicator stalk fixings and make a larger hole for the cable exit.

Then mount the indicator pod. It is wise to fit some sort of spreader plate or at least penny washers behind to make the indicator as stable as possible.

130mm

130mm

Fit the bulb and then mount the lens. Repeat for the other side.

Simplified – see photos


91

92

FW SPECIAL

Fitting the bonnet latches

The bonnet latch is a simple over-centre latch that will apply considerable down-force to hold the bonnet closed. One is fitted on each side about 50mm from the bottom-rear corner of the nose cone.

Tape the body so that it may be marked.

The picture below shows the final position of the latch.

The best way to fit this is to fit the hook (upper) part first. Use two pop-rivets as shown but be sure to use spreader washers on the back or the rivets will cause stress cracking of the gel-coat later.

Use an assistant to press-down on the bonnet to achieve the closed position of the latch. Present the latch in its locked position and mark the exact centres for drilling. Drill the holes, remove the tape and then mount using two more pop-rivets and washers. Trial the latch to approve its operation. If it looks okay move to the other side and repeat the process with the first latch still locked.

On completion check that the shut line is even and that the nose closes properly

Windscreen fitting

Two people are required for this section.

Do not fit the screen until the scuttle is finally positioned and secured!

Locate the windscreen side-arms, the fitting kit and the screen. Fit the windscreen into the side-arms and note that there a tiny Allen key grub-screws for securing the glass. Fit one side-arm at a time and nip-up the grub screws GENTLY but securely. Be careful when handling the unit to hold the glass and the frames.

Now for some of woodwork. Using 50x25mm batten make up a positioning jig as illustrated below. This will maintain the correct position while making the fixings.


FW SPECIAL

Top corner of rear-body overlap on seat bulkhead

Figure 15 Jigging the windscreen position

This is a simpler jig in use

Gap to match windscreen frame thickness

Please use the measurements above as a guideline to positioning. The position can be clarified by using a sidescreen, using its rear fitment around the arch as a secondary check for angle and position.

93


94

FW SPECIAL

If using the optional heated windscreen it is necessary to drill small holes in the scuttle to allow the connecting wires to pass-through.

Heater wire

Mount the wing mirrors on the screen pillars – two separate fixing will be required.

The screen may be placed in the scuttle groove and the top rested against the locating jig so that the fixing screws may drilled and fastened.

Another will be fitted on the out side of the boss facing away from the passenger compartment,.


FW SPECIAL

When both are fixed, a generous bead of Silicone may be applied between the screenbase and the scuttle on the outside face of the screen. Don’t be too concerned about finish because these are is covered by the screen fillet.

To fit the fillet, the centre-hole is first drilled and then a cone drill used to ream-out the centre to the correct size.

95

SILICONE BEAD

Try the fillet frequently to adjust the fit.

The ends of the fillet tuck under the screen pillar inside edges.

When satisfied that all looks okay, reapply the wiper spindle ferrules and tighten down. If okay, remove and then apply Silicone sealant at the top and bottom edges sparingly but without gaps then press in place, tighten the ferrules again and wipe off excess silicone with a white spirit soaked clean rag.

TIP: Use needle-nose pliers or circlip pliers to tighten the wiper bosses


96

FW SPECIAL

Retaining grub-screws

Mirror retaining screw

The screen fillet, finished appearance with the wipers assembled – they park on the driver’s side


FW SPECIAL

Here is the finished look with the optional side-screens fitted

Nosecone grille

The grille mesh is fixed using four cable-ties. Drill a clearance hole for the smallest cable-tie near the corners about 3mm in from the edge being very careful to avoid a break-out. Ask an assistant to help you position the grille while making the fastenings. It is best to make the top fixings first.

Note: that the inside of the nosecone has been sprayed black to improve the appearance.

Secure with 4 cable ties


97

98

FW SPECIAL

Standard roll-over bar fitting

This section describes the standard roll-over bar fitting. If fitting the RAC racing roll-bar please seek factory advice. The racing bar will require the rear diagonal to pass through the boot liner and is a significantly larger task.

Locate the roll-bar and measure the exact centres.

Measure twice to be certain.

Measure the exact diameter of the tube – nominally 50mm. Locate or source a hole-saw for cutting the hole.

Mark the body on tape and measure twice for accuracy.

Drill a small pilot hole at the centre points 50mm back from the seat-back return front edge (2.5-3.5mm).

Measure the centres again and lay the bar against the centres to be certain they are right. If the holes centres are less than perfect, then ease the hole to the correct position in the fibreglass then use a larger drill to re-centre the hole in the steel plate below. When certain that the centre is right, drill with a drill large enough to match the centre bit of the hole-saw.

Apply plenty of masking tape around where the hole will be cut in case of any momentary contact with the body. Select a slow speed on the drill and lower the hole saw slowly to the body ensuring that the tip of the pilot drill passes through the hole in the bracket below. Contact lightly then more firmly as it engages. Drill constantly but firmly until the hole cutter exits on the other side and then remove the cut-out. Repeat for the other side.

Before attempting to mount the bar, measure from inside to inside of the holes and then check against the roll-over bar. Do the same for outside to outside. If it looks like a fit then present the bar and gently push it into the openings – some minor fettling is likely.

Remove the bar and sand inside the holes to remove all burrs and fibres and check the fitagain. When the bar is an easy fit the move to fixings. Don’t force anything of gel-coat may fracture or powder coating might flake.


FW SPECIAL

Drill out the pilot hole in the metal bracket progressively up to 12.5mm (1/2 inch) to clear the 12mm fixing bolt. It is likely your cordless drill will not be powerful enough and perhaps too fast for the larger drills. Use a mains drill on its lowest speed setting if you can. Cutting fluid or a little oil will aid the drilling.

Insert the bolts from below through a washer and apply a smear of Copper-slip to the thread. Tighten the bolts and if you can gain access with a torque wrench then tighten to 25lbft or 33Nm.

Seatbelt mounting and Fuel filler cap mounting

Preparation

Find the fuel filler cap (fitting kit enclosed), the seatbelt eyelet bolts, the seat-belt spacers and the measurements you took previously.

Tape-over the surface of the body where drilling is intended and make sure the whole cutting area around the fuel filler cap is masked. It is also wise to cover the rear of the panel with a cloth as a way to protect the surface and somewhere to rest tools.

Fuel filler-cap installation pt1

Tape around the hole location for marking and protection. Start with measuring the fuelfiller cap position. This is the easiest operation, it has the greatest possible tolerance and it will provide another window to below the body when the hole is bored. It is best to use a circular hole saw and to start with a small pilot hole and when correctly centred then open it out to match the pilot drill of the hole saw.

Measure carefully where the centre of the fuel filler inlet should be.

Sight through the boot opening to be sure there is no gross error.

Use a small drill of 3-4mm to drill the first hole. Look through the hole at the fuel tank protection cap below (torch illumination may be required from above or below. The dot at the centre you made earlier should be clearly visible and directly below. If not, shift the centre until it is and then drill to match the pilot drill size of the hole saw of at diameter to clear the filler stem (this is variable by design type). Now use the hole saw in your drill at the slowest possible speed

ensuring that the pilot does not

drill the protective cap below. Vacuum-clean the dust before complete penetration and place a cloth below to catch any dust falling through –

it must not be allowed to fall

99


100

FW SPECIAL

into the tank.

When the hole is cut through, sandpaper the inside edge to remove any sharps and roughness. Then clean thoroughly – a damp cloth is good for the final residue.

If you do not have a hole saw then a ring of holes may be drilled and filed-out but still be sure to find the true-centre in the same way as above.

Assembly of the filler is easy but leave this until after the seatbelt eyebolts are fitted.

Seatbelt eyebolts

Start with the outside left or right hole. Similar to finding the fuel filler centre-hole but with more precision,

measure precisely and measure again to be certain

. Then drill a tiny centre hole. If the measurement is accurate this should enter into the centre of the boss

– if metal is struck it is clearly off-centre. Shine a light from above and/or below to view the result. It is also possible to hand-hold a drill-bit and probe through to feel the inside edges of the boss and wiggle-test for centring. If the hole is off-centre then move it before using a large centre drill. Repeat this for the opposite side boss then draw a line between them, such that the other two must lay on that centre line. Repeat the process for the centre pair.

A hole saw that matches the boss diameter will be needed. Now bore the four holes to a clearance size for the bosses. Smooth the inside of the holes and clean-up. Try the bosses in the holes – don’t force them they should be an easy fit.

Proving the centre position

The drawing below demonstrates how this is performed. The design of the stand-off bushes may change so determine the solution from the parts supplied. If plain bushes are supplied, a decorative finsih to the hole may be achieved by splitting a rubber grommet with the same size centre hole as the bus. This will neatly cover any ragged or fractured edge.

Centre-hole to match bush

Alternatively make the hole size undersize and use a drum-sander mini bobbin in a drill and open it out progressively by sanding.

Cut as shown to make two

Finishing grommets


Eyebolt

FW SPECIAL

220mm 241mm

Fuel hose

241mm

Filler cap

Gasket

Split fitting ring

101

Spacer

Jubilee clips

Use a little thread lock on the eye-bolts and wind them in until they are tight – with the eye facing across the car. If you cannot achieve that then it may be necessary to shim underneath to reduce by a half-turn or just file or grind 0.5mm off the underside of the stand-off boss face (make sure it is level).

Fuel filler-cap pt2

Next, the fuel filler cap assembly. Remove the tank protector cap. Take the fuel hose and mark it to length allowing for the fitting collar below the cap. There is enough supplied pipe to try again if it is the wrong length.

Mark the cutting position. Wind tape around the diameter to give a guide for cutting. A fine hacksaw is best but it will deviate easily so watch the tape edge for guidance. Remove all of the dust. Present it to the tank to check its length.

Alternatively use a fine toothed tennon saw.


102

FW SPECIAL

If okay, pass it through the opening and through a jubilee clip position so that the clip may be tightened from the boot opening- then drop another clip through the opening.

Trial fit the cap to check the length. If it will fit snugly, remove it and insert the split fixing-ring – it will pass through a hole smaller than its own outer diameter with manipulation. Put a rag in the coupling pipe or cover the tank opening with film. Reapply the cap and mark the fixing hole centres with a fine marker and remove it for drilling. Drill the fixing holes with a clearance drill, clean up and the remove the film/rag.

Put the gasket in place and align with the fixing holes. Insert the first fixing screw into a fixing either side of the split in the coupling-ring then the next into the other side of the spilt and then one diametrically opposite. The others will then be easy.

Store the tiny keys safely!

Note: on later models the retaining wire is inside the cover. IVA required.

Boot-box fitting

The boot-box is easy to fit and just drops in from above the rear panel. It is likely that a little fettling is required in order for it to fit perfectly. Four fixings will suffice near the top and bottom corners - avoiding where the latches might strike at the bottom (read-on)

This is the box viewed from the underside of the body – preassembly. Two countersunk screw fixings could be inserted where arrowed and the same near the rear.

Moreover, use rivserts if possible through return edge for easy removal.


FW SPECIAL

Boot-lid fitting

Tape the lid as shown and mark the centres of the lock fixings. The locks will need some preparation.

Read through completely before commencing.

Contra-rotation locking action

Remove the nut on the bottom of the lock-tang and fold the clenched tang flat and then shape into a bullet tip as shown below.

103

The tang may be positioned on the axle in different positions – the style may vary. Experiment until you find the position that will operate and lock-shut. The other lock has to be set to be the other hand. One will lock clockwise and the other anti-clockwise.


104

FW SPECIAL

Ensure that the hole positions you have marked will allow (a) enough space for the lockbody to clear the liner when it descends (b) that the barrel is close enough for the rotated tang to reach through the boot liner body.

Bore the lock body holes starting with a small pilot drill then a pilot large enough to accommodate the start of a stepped cone drill. Bore to the clearance diameter for the lock body. A continuous taper cone drill is also possible but be very careful not to drill too large. Trial fit the lock and check its operation when loosely tightened. If okay, remove it and do the same for the other side.

Next a slot will be cut into the boot liner below where the lip sits under the boot-liner flange e.g. two thicknesses down from the surface of the liner flange. Fit the two locks and check their action then tighten fully. Mark the expected striking position of the tang with tape. Apply paint or a marker fluid to the tang edge, position the boot lid close and operate the latch until it strikes the take. Lift out and make sure there is a clear mark.

This amounts to the entry point into the slot and it will need to be widened to allow for the full stroke of the tang until it achieves the locking position.

The slot may be cut with the boot-liner removed. Either use a small slitting saw with a mini drill or drill a line of holes and then break then through with a sharp knife. File the slot smooth on the inside using a fine file.

The slot needs to be smooth and flat or the tang will jam badly.


FW SPECIAL

OPTION 1

Position the lock so that nearly all of its rotation is used-up before contacting the liner. If using the eyebrow technique as shown above, it can then lock under the eyebrow without having to penetrate the body at all. This technique is easier and far quicker but takes longer to experiment with first of all.

TIP 1

When all is working well it is wise to fix the lock barrel. Use Thread lock on the nut and then tack the nut to the lid with a small spot of super glue or ring it with Silicone.

TIP 2

It is too easy to flake the gel-coat where the hinge tangs enter the locating holes. Use a countersink rose-bit to put a good chamfer on the holes and it will not flake after that.

Cycle-wing fitting

Fit the wheels and remove the car form the axel stands.

Bolt on the.wing support arms with two fixings each -note that they are handed and only fix one way round.

105


106

FW SPECIAL

Wing support arms:

Fix the support arms as shown via three fixings.

The cycle wings will be either the standard colour matched items or the lighter Carbon-fibre effect type. The latter are lighter but more flexible so they need a little more care.

Remember to fit the side repeater indicator.

Make a small hole in the wing to pass the wire through and remove the backing tape on the indicator to bond it on. Secure the wire on the inside of the wing using duct tape (pressed well down) or tack with super glue and when set, run a bead of silicone over the top. (essential super-glue is water sensitive)

Start with a trial-fit on each side. Rest the wing on the brackets and examine the appearance. Make sure the wing is wide enough for the chosen tyre and that it is centred. Set to the position that most suits but make sure that the front tip of the wing does not sit higher than 150mm above the centre-line of the wheel (IVA requirement). The standard fitting method uses screw fixings through the top surface and into the flat blade of the support arm but it is also possible to make invisible fixings – see the Option below.


FW SPECIAL

Measure on the bracket where the centre of the cycle wing would occur and then transfer that to a mark on masking tape on the bracket. This will allow equidistant marks to be made for the fixing holes. Next, make absolutely sure that the brackets are parallel to each other and if not bend them slightly. Do the same for the other side and then jack up the car and remove the front wheels. Centre-punch where the drilled holes are required and drill using a pilot drill and then open out to 5.5mm. Tape under the cycle wing for marking.

Re-apply the cycle wing and determine exactly where it was originally positioned and then mark through the holes to locate the drilling position. Measure very carefully to determine that the holes are correctly pitched, centred and parallel. Now drill one pair only and semi-firmly fix to the bracket.

This allows the other pair to be drilled through from the underside of the wing in the perfect position. If not sure, don’t drill and refit the wheel to check the position and then re-try.

When seating the wing, it should be buffered compliantly from the bracket. One way is to apply a thick smear of Silicone and let it set. This buffering reduces the risk of wing surface crazing around the fixings over time.

If drilling with the wheel on – drill the bracket - not the tyre!

107


108

FW SPECIAL

Invisible fixings:

Invisible fixings can be made to the underside of the fibreglass wing by using big-head fasteners fibreglassed onto the underside.

The holes are drilled into the brackets and the big-head fasteners pushed through from the top – thread downwards towars the tyre.

Tape under the cycle-wing, loose fit the wheel and position the wing where it is required. Mark the outline accurately.

Carefully remove the wheel to avoid wing displacement and then mark around the fasteners in pencil or fine marker on the underside. Remove the wing and mount it upside down on a padded surface.

View from the underside of the wing

Use super-glue to bond the fasteners in their required position. It is now possible to fibreglass them into position. Wait 24 hours before attempting to re-fit. The studs wil need to be cut to length such that only minimal length protrudes and flat nuts are used on the underside.

If measurements go slightly wrong, no correction is possible on the wings but it is possible to slots the fixings in the brackets with a rat-tail file. Paint or grease any bared steel to prevent rusting.


Note: Because the big-head fasteners are fitted radial to the tyre, one set of holes may need to be slotted/oversize to pass the second set of the threads though at an angle to their final resting position but flexing the arms or the wing may achieve the result.

FW SPECIAL

These holes may need

to be slotted

Keep short to avoid

tyre contact

109


110

FW SPECIAL

Rear wing protector spats

The rear wing protectors are an optional extra on the basic kit and are recommended to protect the wing. They are very simple to fit using peel rivets with the action shown here. They may be identified by the conical anvil at the foot. Black rivets are supplied for black wings.

The wing shown is the carbon-fibre look-alike wing.

Clip the protector on the wing and adjust it for position, looking carefully at the controur changes. When satisfied, gently clamp it with pads to ensure it cannot move during drilling – duct tape may also help to hold it still. The peel rivets are

3.5mm so use the right drill.

Apply one rivet and set it. Check the position before setting the others. Work progressively away from the first to avoid a riveted-in bulge. See the arrows for the recommended positions.


FW SPECIAL

Zetec Special Edition Exhaust Hole Template

205mm

The measurements are taken from the front upper chassis rail back for fore and aft positioning, then down from the rail to give start point for hole.

Please take care and measure correctly and recheck before cutting.

555mm

130mm

115mm

Note

;

Make sure that the silencer moutning boss on the chassis has been transferred through to the main body side section once the body is in it’s correctly fitted position.

An easy way to do this is to use a drill through the centre of the boss from the inside, drilling carefully through to the outside of the body. Once you have this position the rear silencer mounting can be fitted ( this mounting will vary dendant on specification of silencer).

111


112

FW SPECIAL


Comments



FW SPECIAL

23 Dash-panel & Steering Wheel Fitting

TOOLS

MATERIALS


Imperial Metric

7mm drill bit & cordless drill Dash fitting kit (electrical)

Spanners Spanners Rivesert tool Dash fitting kit - fixings

Sockets Sockets Electrical tools Steering wheel and crash-pad


Data on

People

completion

General advice

1

Time

10 hrs

%

Complete

92 %

Be especially caeful when drilling the Rivsert holes near to the edge of the scuttle risk of gel-coat flaking.

Calibrating the speedometer

The speedometer is already calibrated for 15 inch wheels with R55 profile tyres at 20 psi. If no change has been made to that specification, the speedometer is ready for operation. If there are changes consult the instruction with you speedo in order to reset it. It is important to determine the “rolling radius” of your wheel exactly in order to set the speedometer. The rolling radius is less than the actual diameter of the tyre because the tyre compresses when it is under load.

So set the tyre to the correct pressure and measure exactly from the centre of the wheel to the ground. The rolling circumference will be (Pi) 3.142 x the rolling radius squared

So if the rolling radius is 235mm the distance covered in one revolution of the wheel is:

(235 x 2) x 3.142 = 1477mm or 1.477 metres. In one revolution of the wheel the car will cover 1.477metres in other words.

We need to convert that to yards for miles per hour so multiply the metric by 1.0939 =

1.61569 yards per revolution.

As there are 1760 yards per mile, that computes to 1760 divided by 1.61569 = revolutions per mile = 1,089 revolutions per mile.

Make your own calculation base on your measurements – this is only to demonstrate the basic method. Your speedometer will ask you to set the wheel revolutions per mile and

113


114

FW SPECIAL

the number of bolt-heads that it is sensing (four). You will then need to enter the corresponding number into the speedometer from a calculation.

Securing the loom for the Dashboard

The loom is secured to the Dashboard hoop and the tails are then long enough to reach forward to the Dashboard stood in front of the hoop/scuttle but extender wires are supplied to make this easier.

NOTE: At the time of writing it is intended to make modifications to the loom for longer tails so the extenders may be omitted in future.

Figure 16 Lashing the Dash loom to the Dash rail

The loom is routed to the left of the car and then doubles back along the rail to the right so that the Hazard warning switch aligns with the end of the Dash. Tie-in loosely at first and ensure that the loom is held away from the moving steering shaft. Where the loom rises from the tunnel is wise to make a big loop laid forwards such that the heater motor

(if fitted) passes under the loop.

It is wise to make a simple jig to hold the Dash in-place for assembly. This can be very simple and quick. One way is shown below. Place two small spacer-blocks between the scuttle base and the Dash base either side and stand the Dash off-vertical and leaning forward to give good access to the back but close enough for the wires to reach. Pass a lashing cord around the wiper pinions (or windscreen if fitted) and over the top and front


FW SPECIAL

of the Dash, back up underneath and secure on the Dash rail. Adjust the strap length until it is in the right position.

Figure 17 Dash panel lashed for wiring

If the windscreen is already fitted then lash around the screen instead.

Dashboard panel fitting

It is presumed that the Dashpanel is assembled at this point. If not go to Chapter 15

Dash pre-build. Return here when assembled.

Present the Dash panel to the Scuttle, locating on the lower side extremes to look for collisions between the instruments, indicators and switches.

Mark where they are and then file them to shape progressively.

This process will be quite protracted with a hand-file but may be greatly hastened by using a power file or

Dremell.

115


116

FW SPECIAL

Use only a fine hand-file not a rasp to reduce the risk of flaking or fracture and file oneway from decorative face rearwards. File forwards only – pushing towards the back edge and lifting off for the return stroke.

CAUTIONARY NOTES:

•

There will be a lot of dust produced so mask/cover as many surfaces as possible and drape underneath with dust-sheets.

•

•

•

•

•

•

Wear a face mask eye shields and stout gloves.

Fibreglass can pierce like a syringe but it also snaps off under the skin!

When finished, rub down the edges with coarse grit to remove sharps.

Don’t wipe your eyes with fibreglass on your hands!

Wash hands in cold water on completion.

Vacuum away the dust or you will never be rid of it in the built car

The photograph below shows the scuttle profiled for a Contoured Dash (option) with dial instruments and also shows a relief for the (optional) heated windscreen push-button on

Two indicator lamps

Speedo and tacho

Heated screen switch (option)

Figure 18 Scuttle edge profiling for the Dash panel (contoured Dash)

the right. The edge will need to be contoured according to each particular layout so there is no specific drawing or template for this.


FW SPECIAL

Fitting with Rivserts

Here is a view of the finished standard Dash panel appearance. The moulded trim supplied will cover the fixings but it is important to ensure that they are close enough to the upper edge to be concealed.

IMPORTANT: The trim will appear to have a large overlap but it is fitted with Velcro so the overlap will be reduced by two thicknesses of the material so be aware that the overlap may be smaller than the first impression. Screws need to be quite close to the edge of

117

the Dash and take great care drilling close to the edge.

Flat Dash illustrated – it is same principle for contoured

Use the 5mm Rivserts supplied (7mm hole) and fitted at about 200mm spacing to suit the fittings (variable according to options). Clamp the panel in position having marked where the fixings should be. Clamp the panel in place securely and pilot drill with a drill of circa

2.5mm (not critical) Drill the first hole near to the centre of the panel. As soon as this first hole is drilled pass a pin, nail or small screwdriver through the hole to ensure that it


118

FW SPECIAL

cannot slip. Next drill a pilot near the bottom left and bottom right and again push a pin through to hold the position. The other holes may now be drilled with confidence, knowing they will be correctly centred.

Separate the panel from the scuttle and separately drill the holes on the scuttle and the panel. Choose a blunted drill-bit or a masonry drill to open the holes, drilling

gently

from the front to avoid fracture or break-out. For the panel, switch to a sharp drill but drill out in stages from say 3.5mm via 5mm to 6.5mm. The staging is to prevent aggressive grabbing when drilling through the leather, foam and panel. Drilling into a wooden backing block is the safest way to do this and to keep control. The Rivserts require an

7mm hole and it best to increase the hole size progressively here too.

ALTERNATIVE: Wood-drills are quicker and safer because they cut the outside diameter before cutting the centre. This prevents fractures in fibreglass and they have a positive centre location spike which prevents wander. With such drills, the holes may be drilled in one pass BUT be gentle. When drilling the panel use a leather punch tool or cut a cross in the fabric with a sharp craft knife. This will prevent the fabric wrapping around the drill.

Wiring the Dashboard

Locate the Dashboard wiring kit. Inside there will be enough wires and terminals to wire any variant of Dashboard.

Colour

White

Brown

White

Black

Green

Black

Green

Blue

Green

Black

Qty

1 off

1 off

1 off

1 off

4 off +1

4 off

Function

Oil pressure sensor (Signal)

Tachometer from ECU (signal wire)

Fuel level signal

Water temperature signal

Ignition on supply

Earth (-ve)

Table 1 Dash, wire decoder


FW SPECIAL

NOTE: is planned to extend the tails on the loom in future so this extender set may not be necessary.

The scuttle should be fitted for this stage.

It is wise to build some sort of jig to hold the Dash in its wiring position while carrying out this work to liberate both hands.

Place the bottom corners of the das at the base of the scuttle with the corners resting on the chassis sides. It may also help to hold the base about 3-5 cm away from the base of the scuttle with a block of wood on each side. Fix the Dash such that it is leaning forward by at least 45 degrees for easy access and lock it in position.

Next if you have not already done so, now is the time to fit the steering link. Find the Allen key fixing bolts in the steering kit. Unlock the steering lock and pull the top rod out a little to allow the bottom link to slip under the splined end. Push back down until the spine is fully engaged and slip the bolts in top and bottom – passing through the groove in the spline. Use a little releasable thread lock on each thread. Tighten to 20lbft or 27.1Nm.

For safety, fit a protective pad to the end of the steering column until the steering wheel is fitted.

119


120

FW SPECIAL

Building the Steering Wheel BASIC

IMPORTANT:

The steering wheel provided will pass the

IVA test – if the car is presented with a substitute it might fail for lack of the regulatory safety features.

Locate the steering wheel, steel wheel boss and mounting bolts

(1) Place the steering wheel onto its boss and align the mounting holes

(2) Remove the nuts and spring washers from the mounting screws. Place a screw through each hole going through the steering wheel first then the mounting boss

(3) Place a spring washer and a nut onto each screw then tighten down

(4) Clip-on the crash-pad to finish and secure firmly with hook and loop Velcro


Start date

Comments

The boss is a hollow basket and a cover clips over it

Finish date Time


FW SPECIAL

24 Interior and trim

TOOLS


Imperial Metric

Cordless drill and drill set

None Sockets Pop-rivet gun

Spanners



People

General advice

1

Time

4mm Pop Rivets, mush. head

Two foot-well panels

Two floor panels

Silicone sealant

Trade or baby-wipes

Velcro tapes

10

MATERIALS

96%

Interior side-panels

If these panels have not been fitted yet, now is the last opportunity. Use the same technique as an outside panel as performed earlier but this time use the Black Rivets supplied. Peel type Pop rivets used in areas attaching to GRP. Standard rivets are used through steel chassis members.

Carpet fitting and trim

Identify the following components

The footwell cross member caps Elbow pads

121

Driver-side cap is longer

These are handed


122

FW SPECIAL

Fit the cross-member caps now. They will just push on and the tails may be bonded down to hold it in place or better still, fasten the caps at either end with a black pop-rivet and just tuck the tails under the carpet when fitted. Alternatively, tuck the tails under the extrusion and tap it home tight and then drill two pop-rivets to hold in place. Any carpet gap will show aluminium this way – determine your own preference. Fit the elbow pads last. Next unpack the carpet pieces and identify their locations. Here is some guidance.

(A) Under-seat, Drivers side Rectangular – wider than Passenger side

(B) Under-seat, Passenger side

(C) Footwell Bottom, Drivers side

Rectangular – narrower than Driver side

Trapeziod – wider than Passenger side

(D) Footwell Bottom, Passenger side Trapeziod – narrower than Driver’s side

(E) Seat bulkhead Large rectangle

(F) Passenger footwell, vertical, bulkhead Nearly square

(G) Passenger footwell, vertical, RHS

(H) Transmission tunnel, saddle

(I) Driver footwell, vertical, Bulkhead

(J) Driver footwell, vertical, LHS

Nearly square – fits in chassis opening

Obvious, fits over gearlever and handrake

Small rectangle over pedals

Nearly square – fits in chassis opening

J

I

C

G

F

A

D

E

B

H


FW SPECIAL

Note that the the gear-lever and handbrake gaiter fit under the carpet because the carpet has stiched-in sleeves.

Insert the carpet pieces in the following order:

1.

Drivers footwell, with the bulkhead piece inserted via the footwell cover.

2.

Passenger footwell

3.

Driver and Passenger trapezium pieces

4.

Driver and passenger under-seat pieces

5.

Rear bulkhead

6.

Transmission tunnel

The small vertical pieces should be bonded-in – especially above the pedals – any mastic adhesive will do – dabs only to allow future removal if required.

The trapezium parts should be Velcro secured at the rear and also on one or both edges to stop it shifting.

No attachment under the seat - the runners and seat bolts secure that.

Rear bulkhead – use Velcro fastening to stop it slumping. Tape to the carpet– attach the mating half to it with the keeper tape removed and then push against the rear bulkhead to transfer the tape to the right position. Separate the tapes carefully and press-down the tape onto the bulkhead (ultimately use impact adhesive to apply the tape to the rubber carpet-backing or the adhesive on the tape will fail). Leave the carpet for a day before reattaching to allow the adhesive to bond. If the top edge of the carpet will not push under the body overhang then it may be dressed with a piece of the rubber U-channel supplied for a neat edge.

Note: When fitting the transmission tunnel carpet, make sure the the carpet is perforated where the seat-belt mounting needs to pass through. Make an oversize hole – it will not show.

Make sure the holes are plenty large enough to accommodate the bolts – there is no merit in under-doing this because the area will never show when the seat is fitted. Fold the carpet back where the hole is and pierce through with a gimlet or bradawl such that it passes into the threaded hole. Next drill the carpet from the fabric side with a cone drill.

Then ream a clean an oversize hole from the underside. Make sure the bolt will pass through without risk of the fabric wrapping around the thread.

123


124

FW SPECIAL

Seat belt fitting

This manual only covers the 4 point harness belts - a factory option but one that almost everybody chooses. If you wish to fit the intertia reel belts please speak to the factory.

The belt must be positioned so as to pull correctly across pelvis in the case of an accident. It will need to pass the junction of the seat-back and the seat squab.

Almost certainly this will require the rear mounting unless it is required to situate the seat well forward.

The outboard mounting viewed from cockpit area. The seatbelt anchorage should be the same on both sides.

Upper harness mounting points

Please note that special Westfield supplied spacers and harness eyes are required so that the mounting protrudes through the fibreglass boot box when fitted.

When the sport turbo seat option is fitted it will look like this. If the standard seat is used, the shoulder harness will pass either side of the seat-back.

The lower picture shows how the lap-belt will route with the buckle to the right, for the driver and passenger.


FW SPECIAL

Seat Fitting

The seats supplied are adjustable so it is important to fit them so that the full range of adjustment is achievable. Pull the grab handle at the front of the seat upwards and move the seat to the rear of the runners.

Note: The runners move separately when unlocked so it is essential to align the ends of both before marking any fixing holes.

Try the seat in the car with the carpet-in place (to avoid scratching the floor). While it will be difficult, try running the seat forward (lift handle) to ensure the full range may be achieved and then set it right back again. If you do not like the range then set the maximum rearward position now and then remove the seat. Repeat this for the seat on the passenger side but try to ensure the full range of adjustment is used on this side.

The holes in the floorpan are predrilled to suit the seat runners fitted to the base of the seat. What you will have to do, if you have carpets fitted, is locate these holes and using a sharp blade cut holes through the carpet so that the seat may pass through the carpet and the holes in the floor seat pan.

Now fit the seat. It helps to have the seat centred on its runners It may be necessary to lift the handle and adjust one runner with respect to the other. Check underneath to ensure that the threads have passed evenly through the floor panel - wriggle it or sit in the seat if necessary. Apply a large penny washer (smeared with Silicone for sealing) to each thread and fasten with an 8mm Nyloc nut. Again a small smear of Silicone on the base of the thread will ensure a seal from road-water. Go firm on one thread at a time but do not tighten fully until all are firm. It is wise to have an assistant sit in the seat at this point to make sure the bolts are forced right down before final tightening. A loose seat belt fastening is an IVA fail.

Note: if the centres don’t quite work then just drill the holes out to 9 - 9.5mm. It does not matter because the penny washers spread the load.

125


126

FW SPECIAL

Dash trim fitting

The dash trim is fitted using hook and loop Velcro. Apply loop to the scuttle, immediately behind the rear edge of the dash panel but apply it in about 200mm lengths with small gaps - this does two things. It prevents buckling on cold days and also deals with the curvature of the scuttle better. On the finishing eyebrow do the same (contour dash).

Don’t be concerned about where the gaps are and if they align – as long as they are small there will be plenty of bond. Wait 24 hours before applying the trim to allow the adhesive to cure. Apply the trim from the passenger side touching down on the side edge and wrap it progressively down onto the scuttle checking the fit on the instrument binnacle as you go (contour dash).

If successful, it should touch down on the side panel on the other side. If not, carefully remove and try again until satisfied.

Mirror fitting

Clean the upper centre of the windscreen with alcohol or thinners and dry with a clean paper towel.

Remove the keeper tape on the mirror mounts and press it into position.

If the temperature is very low, warm the screen with a hairdryer for a minute to improve the grab of the tape.

Elbow pad fitting

The elbow pads are fitted in the same way as the dash-trim with Velcro hook and loop.

The tail shown fits inside the panel facing forwards.


FW SPECIAL

Sidescreen fitting (Option)

Two people are required for this. The sidescreens will be temporarily fitted here and removed for the IVA test.

Mark the hinge holes through onto the screen steel inner frame. These frames are predrilled in the frame but covered by the vinyl covering. Use the mushroom head stainless steel Allen-head screws and the safety dome nuts for the inside fastenings. Repeat for the other side and then remove the screens.

Fix the securing strap as shown below – all of the parts are in the fitting kit.

Underscuttle Panels

The cover plate provides impact protection for knees, covering the edge of the scuttle.

Secure with hook and loop Velcro or use a couple of self-tapping screws – be certain that it is secure in order to pass the IVA test.


127

128

FW SPECIAL


Comments



FW SPECIAL

25 Set-up

TOOLS

MATERIALS


Imperial Metric

Suspension Alignment tools ECU set-up manual

Spanners Spanners Laptop

Sockets Sockets Serial lead to USB converter



People

1

Time

8

% Complete

98%

Timings depend entirely on skill levels in this area and whether

General advice

professional help is sought.

Set-up general

Westfield Sportscars offers a service for a modest fee to set-up the vehicles and it is typically combined with a pre-IVA check-up. This is specialist work and beyond most amateur builders to perform due to the special equipment. Most builders opt to use the service so this following guide does not attempt depth or detail.

Engine set-up

The engine is managed by the ECU and is “flashed” at the factory with the correct basic program. This means your engine will start and run. If throttle bodies are fitted then balancing and set will be required

Final set-up is normally performed when the engine is nominally run-in at circa 1,000 miles. The base set-up should suffice for emission testing during the IVA.

129


130

FW SPECIAL

Initial start-up engine settings

Before allowing the engine to start, it is wise to allow the ECU to sense the engine position for the first time. Remove the spark plug leads and the sparkplugs (14mm rubber lined plug-socket on a long reach driver). Clearly, the engine cannot start when the ignition key is turned but it will allow two things: (a) check that the oil pressure pops up smartly to 90psi (desist if it does not do so in 3 seconds!) (b) the ECU will find the engine position from a notch in the crackshaft position sensor (toothed wheel). If you do not do this the engine may run very rough for tens of seconds until the ECU establishes the firing position.

This is not kind to the new engine and may result on very rough running and backfires so it is best to run this little routine first.

If you wish to tune for power, alternative set-ups or economy then choose a rolling road set-up centre for OMEX to do this for you unless you have advanced set-up skills and a rolling road available. The information is in the manual supplied but it is not readable to an amateur builder. You will need to go to the tuner with the OMEX manual, the serial connecting lead, a serial lead to USB adapter that you have verified works and the set-up disk.

Suspension set-up

The suspension set-up is not easy for a anybody who is inexperienced and does not have the special tools. It is recommended that the set-up service offered by Westfield Sportcars is used. This can be combined with your pre-IVA check for peace of mind.

If you wish to set-up yourself and you have the set-up tools please refer to

Annexe 3 Specifications

.


Start date Finish date

Comments

Time


FW SPECIAL

26 Pre-IVA

TOOLS


Imperial Metric

Notepad

None None

MATERIALS

IVA compliance kit

Champagne!


Data on

People

completion

General advice

1

Time

4 hrs

% Complete

100 %

Well this is it – the final chapter and just IVA and registration to go before you take to the road.

Enjoy the lifestyle and thanks for sharing the Westy Experience!

Adding safety protection

A large kit of IVA compliance components is provided – more than is necessary. Reading the IVA compliance manual is advised but not essential if this construction manual has been followed without any modifications or deviations. The car is designed to comply with the IVA.

Do not fit any roof fittings or side-screens for the IVA.

The critical areas for collision protection for pedestrians are in the frontal area – especially around the suspension and cycle wings and on top of the nosecone and around the screen.

In the passenger compartment there are critical areas where injury is avoided or reduced by the use of large radii and protecting any potentially sharp edges.

In side the car a test Hemisphere is used that simulates a knee and where it might contact in an accident. All of the contact points have to be blunt. Behind the steering wheel is exempt because it cannot be contacted but the steering wheel needs to comply with its own rules and the crash-pad has to be in-place. So positioning switches and the like must be in the safe zone or must be radiused if in a crital area.

131


132

FW SPECIAL

If standard parts have been used, the car is well built and all nuts and bolts correctly applied and torqued, all of the electrics work correctly it should pass. Now for some specifics.

Checks and safety measures

Westfield provides a pre-IVA inspection service – it wise to use the service and spot problems when they can be corrected.

If you have made modifications to the standard design it is essential to read the IVA compliance manual in detail to ensure that there is no safety rule breach. https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/203591/

M1_IVA_inspection_manual.pdf

Front of the car

Cap all forward-facing nuts with a plastic safety cover to provide the necessary safety radius. Any forward-facing edge (should be none) has to be safety radiused. Check that there are no sharp edges on the nosecone. The bonnet latches are approved in their normal position – check that they are fitted correctly.

Torqued nuts and bolts

Set-up required that some nuts and bolts were not torqued until the vehicle was standing on its wheels. These bolts should be torqued according to the text in the relevant chapter or as listed in

Annexe 2 Torque settings

.

All other critical nits and bolts should be torqued and two turns of thread must be visible above the locking nuts.

Cabin – physical hazards

Imagine where your knee might impact in an accident and look for any radius less than

19mm within a contact area. Any sharp contact point is a potential failure. Check, in particular, that the knee protection plates have been fitted at raised knee height where the lower scuttle edges are.


FW SPECIAL

Instrumentation and Dash indicators

All of the instruments must work and that includes their illumination when the lights are on. Check they remain illuminated with the ignition in the START and Engine Running position. If a light extinguishes when the engine is running it is possible an earth or black wire is not connected and the current path is through the instrument – that will cause the light to go out when the engine runs and may cause a wrong or no indication on the gauge.

The speedometer must be calibrated correctly to pass the IVA. It is wise to understand exactly how to do this on the IVA day so if it fall marginally outside limits is may be adjusted in a couple of minutes. (Correction is allowed on the day if it is quick)

Check the operation of the handbrake indicator and that the handbrake rises by about three clicks on the ratchet to full engagement.

Check that the Oil pressure gauge indicated full pressure when the engine is running. The charge led should light when the ignition is turned on and extinguish when the engine starts. Run the car up to temperature to ensure that the temperature gauge indicates around 86 degrees C and that the fan cuts-in at or around 90 degrees C. Ensure that the fuel guage is giving the right reading. Full should indicate at about 5 gallons or 22 litres and minimum at about half a gallon. Do not remove fuel to prove the point – too risky but it is okay to add fuel.

Electrical functions

Everything electrical must work and correctly. The wiring loom must be secure at all points and there must be no risk of an chafing, cutting, strain, vibration or trapping.

Wheels and tyres

Check that the tyre tread is the correct orientation – look for the rotation arrow or orientation marks on the sidewall of the tyres. Check the pressures are 20 psi. Check that the wheel nuts are secure and torqued. Ensure that there is no contact between the tyre and body/wing.

Steering

Check that the steering wheel is secure and centred in the dead-ahead position. Ensure that the crash-pad is fitted.

133


134

FW SPECIAL

Lights and indicators

Parking lights

Operate the light switch to the first position in with the ignition off and check that the sidelights illuminate at front and rear. Also establish that the numberplate light is illuminated.

Headlamp

With the ignition on, operate the Headlight switch to dipped beam and check both headlight beams and the rear tail lights. Operate the switch to the next position and check full beam and tail lights/numberplate light. With the headlamps on, operate the foglight switch and check that the fog light is illuminated. With the ignition on and the engine stopped, put the gear-lever in reverse and check that the reversing light is illuminated.

Headlamp positions: they have to meet the alignment gauges during the IVA test. You may elect to set up an alignment gauge via chalk marks on a wall or boad according to the IVA regulations – see the pdf link above or this can wait for the day of the IVA test – modest time is allowed for adjusting them on the day agains the test-centre gauges.

Indicators

With the ignition on, check the left and right indicators front and rear for correct operation and orientation. A rapid flash is a sign of a missing connection.

Horn

With the ignition on, press the horn switch. A single tone horn only is permitted for the

IVA.

Wipers

With the ignition on, check the wipers operate at two speeds and that there is a full sweep on the driver’s side. Check for full contact between the wiper and screen – adjust if necessary.

On the passenger side there is not a full sweep because the mechanism fitted is 110 degrees. If there is not enough down force – shorten the arm sping to increase it. If the wiper chatters the angle of attack may need adjustment and this may be achielved by gently twisting the arm while the boss is held in vice soft-jaws.

Washers

Fill the water bottle and operate the wash switch. Ensure the nozzles point where they should and adjust with a pin into the spray-ball if necessary.


FW SPECIAL

Decals

Check that all of the switches are marked for function according to the regulations – if all standard parts have been used, they will be compliant

Safety

Check for:

1.

Petrol leaks at any unions and hoses

2.

Approved pipes have been used for flexible connections and the marks are visible.

3.

Press the brake hard with the handbrake on and ensure there is no sponginess or leaks. If there is, address accordingly then rebleed the brakes.

4.

Press the brake hard with the handbrake off. There may be more movement but still no sponginess.

5.

No body or chassis contact for any hose, fuel line, brake pipe

6.

Same for the above, no vibration or trapping risk a.

Check the seat-belt: anchorages are secure, that the buckles operate correctly, the shackles are connected correctly and routed properly around or through the headrest

7.

The roll bar must be secure and not move

8.

Look underneath and check that the seatbelt fastenings are fully secured with nyloc nuts and large penny washers.

9.

Look into the footwell and inspect the pedals. Check for two turns of thread above the lock-nuts, the trunnion pin is secured with the throttle cable gripped by the grub-screw, the clutch clevis has a split pin properly flared to retain it.

There should be no excessive lateral movement in any pedal.

10.

With the key in the steering unlock position rock the steering to ensure there is no slack and no clonks.

11.

Check that the bolts on the steering linkages are secure

12.

Follow the path of the cooling hoses and look for signs of lealks and ensure the jubilee clips are all secure.

13.

Inspect the fuel cap for correct fitting, locking and that the cap is retained by the internal wire.

14.

Generally insect all of the body for any loose parts, protrusions, sharp edges and any parts liable to movement.

15.

Check that the screen is secure

16.

In the engine compartment check: a.

Nothing will melt or burn on the exhaust manifold b.

Nothing is going to flail and be caught in the fanbelt.

135


136

FW SPECIAL

c.

Fuel pipes are secure, will not touch hot parts and are displaying their approval marks



Comments


FW SPECIAL

Annexe 1 Wiring colour decoders

Tachometer4

Washers switch1

Water Temperature3

Wiper motor4

Wiper switch1

Oil pressure gauge3

Fuel Gauge3

Water Temp. Gauge3

Fuel tank sensor

Reversing light1

Fuel Gauge2

Brake light switch2

Hazard Switch3

Indicator

Indicator

Indicator marker

Indicator switch1

Heater2

Heater switch2



Hazard Switch2

Ignition Switch3

Indicator

Indicator

Indicator marker


Heater switch1

Heater1

Item

Dash illumination1

EARTH


Oil temperature1

Speedometer1

Speedometer3

Speedometer5

Tachometer1

Tachometer3

Tachometer5


Wiper motor1


Fuel Gauge1


Cooling fan

Brake fluid warning

Handbrake switch

Brake light switch1

Hazard Switch6

Heater switch1

Heater switch3


Immobiliser2

Immobiliser5


Reversing light2

Speedometer6

Green

Green

Green

Green

Green

Green

Green

Green

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Rear

Rear

Dash

Front

Dash

Front Left

Rear Left

Front Left

Green

Green

Green

Green

Green

Green

Green

Green

Green

Green

Green

Green

Dash

Scuttle

Dash

Dash

Green

Green

Green

Green

Dash

Dash

Green

Green

Dash

Green

Front Right

Green

Rear Right

Green

Front Right

Green

Dash

Dash

Scuttle

Green

Green

Green

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Rear

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Scuttle

Dash

Dash

Dash

Scuttle

Dash

Dash

Dash

Front

Front

Rear

Front

Location

Dash

Anywhere

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Black

Black

Green

Green

Green

Green

Green

Green

Body

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

G Green

G Green

G Green

G Green

G Green

G Green

G Green

G Green

G Black

G Brown

G Black

G Purple

G Red

G Red

G Red

G Red

G Red

G Slate

G Slate

G Blue

G Blue

G White

G White

G White

G White

G White

G White

G Yellow

G Yellow

Code

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

Stripe

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

B Black

B Black

B Black

B Black

B Black

B Black

B Black

B Green

B White

B White

G Green

G Green

G Green

G Green

G Green

G Green

G Green

G Green

G Green

G Green

S

S

U

U

R

R

R

R

W

W

W

W

W

W

Y

Y

G

G

G

G

G

G

G

G

B

P

B

N

R

G

G

G

G

W

W

G

G

G

G

G

G

B

B

B

B

Code

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

G

Code

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

B

Function

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

B

EARTH/CHASSIS -ve

BG

Fan switched supply

BW

Brake Warning

BW

Brake Warning

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

G

Ignition on supply

GB

Fuel level signal

GN

Reversing light switched supply

GB

Fuel level signal

GP

Brake light sitched supply

GR

Indicator supply

GR

Indicator supply

GR

Indicator supply

GR

Indicator supply

GR

Indicator supply

GS

Heater supply, Slow

GS

Heater supply, Slow

GU


GU


GW

Indicator RHS

GW

Indicator RHS

GW

Indicator RHS

GW

Indicator RHS

GW

Indicator RHS

GW

Indicator RHS

GY

Heater supply, Fast

GY

Heater supply, Fast

137


138

FW SPECIAL

Item

Washers

Washers switch2

Hazard Switch5

Hazard Switch1


Immobiliser1

Immobiliser4

Inertia switch1

Inertia switch2

Light switch3

Wiper switch4


Hazard Switch4

Horn switch1

Power socket

Horn

Horn switch2

Light switch1

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Brake lights

Headlamp Sidelight

Number plate light

Wiper motor3

Wiper switch3

Dash illumination2

Speedometer2

Speedometer4

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Tachometer2

Tachometer4

Dash

Dash

Fog light

Foglight switch1

Rear

Dash

Foglight switch2

Headlamp switch2

Light switch2

Dash

Dash

Dash

Headlamp Main Beam

Front

Scuttle

Front

Dash

Dash

Rear

Front

Rear

Scuttle

Location

Front

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Dash

Rear

Rear

Wiper motor2

Wiper switch2


Tachometer6

Scuttle

Dash


Dash

Headlamp Dipped Beam Front

Dash

Dash

Oil pressure sensor


Immobiliser3

Immobiliser6

Speed sensor1

Speedometer7


Engine

Dash

Dash

Dash

Rear

Dash

Speed sensor2

Speedometer8

Dash

Rear

Dash

Red

Red

Red

Red

Red

Blue

Blue

Blue

Blue

Blue

Blue

Blue

Blue

White

White

White

White

Red

Red

Red

Red

Red

Red

Red

Red

Body Code Stripe Code Code

LtGreen LG Black

LtGreen LG Black

B

B

LGB

Function

Washer switched supply

LGB

Washer switched supply

LtGreen LG Pink

LtGreen LG Brown

K

N

LGK

LGN

Flasher relay

Supply (Ignition off)

LtGreen LG Brown

LtGreen LG White



N

W

W

W

LGN

LGW

Supply (Ignition off)

Fuel pump supply

LGW

Fuel pump supply

LGW

Fuel pump supply

LGW

Fuel pump supply


Brown N Brown

Brown

Brown

N

N

LtGreen

Yellow

W

N

LG

Y

N

NLG

NY

Unswitched supply

Wiper speed

Solenoid actuation - Start position on key

P

Power supply

Purple

Purple

Purple

Purple

Purple

Red

P Purple

P Purple

P Purple

P Black

P Black

R Red

P

B

B

R

P

P P

P

Power supply

Power supply

PB

Horn switched supply

PB

Horn switched supply

R

Power supply Lighting

R

R

R

R

R

R

Black

Black

Black

LtGreen

LtGreen

Orange

R Orange

R Orange

B

B

B

LG

LG

O

O

O

RB

RB

RB

RLG

RLG

RO

Brake light switched supply



Wiper speed

Wiper speed

Dash illumination circuit

RO


RO


RO


White

Yellow

Yellow

Yellow

Yellow

Yellow

R Orange

R Orange

R Blue

R Blue

R Blue

U Blue

U Blue

U

U

U

U

Pink

LtGreen

LtGreen

Red

U Slate

U White

W Black

W Brown

W Brown

W Red

W

Y

Y

Y

Y

Y

Red

Green

Green

Brown

White

White

O

O

U

U

U

U

U

K

LG

LG

R

S

W

B

N

N

R

R

G

G

N

W

W

RO

RU

RU

RU

U

Headlamp Supply

U

Headlamp Supply

UK

Headlamp dipped beam

ULG

Wiper switched supply

ULG

Wiper switched supply

UR

Headlamp parking light

US

Headlamp dipped beam

UW

Headlamp Full Beam

WB

WN

WN

WR


Foglight switched supply



Signal input from ECU

Oil pressure sensor

Oil pressure sensor

Alternator primary

WR

Alternator primary

YG

Speed sensor supply

YG

Speed sensor supply

YN

NOT USED Oil temperature switched supply

YW

Speed sensor signal

YW

Speed sensor signal


FW SPECIAL

Colour codes in code order (Combo highlight) for decoding the wiring diagram.

Pink

Pink

Pink

Pink

Pink

Pink

Pri

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Black

Letter Sec Letter Combo Pri Letter Sec Letter Combo

B Black B B LtGreen LG Green G LG

B Green G BG LtGreen LG Black B LGB

B Pink K

B LtGreen LG

B Brown N

B Orange O

BK LtGreen LG Pink

BN LtGreen LG Brown

BO LtGreen LG Orange

K

BLG LtGreen LG LtGreen LG LGLG

N

O

LGK

LGN

LGO

Black

Black

Black

Black

B Purple

B Red

B Slate

B Blue

Black

Black

B White

B Yellow

Green G Green

Green G Black

P

R

S

U

W

Y

G

B

BP LtGreen LG Purple

BR LtGreen LG Red

BS LtGreen LG Slate

BU LtGreen LG Blue

BW LtGreen LG White

BY LtGreen LG Yellow

G Brown

GB Brown

N

N

Brown

Black

P

R

S

U

W

Y

N

B

LGP

LGR

LGS

LGU

LGW

LGY

N

NB

Green G Pink K

Green G LtGreen LG

Green G Brown N

Green G Orange O

Green G Purple

Green G Red

Green G Slate

Green G Blue

Green G White

Green G Yellow

Pink

Pink

K

K

Pink

Black

Pink

Pink

Pink

Pink

K Green G

K LtGreen LG

K Brown N

K Orange O

K

K

K

K

Purple

Red

Slate

Blue

K White

K Yellow

P

R

S

U

P

R

S

U

W

Y

K

B

W

Y

GK Brown

GLG Brown

GN Brown

GO Brown

GP Brown

GR Brown

GS Brown

GU Brown

GW Brown

GY Brown

K Orange

KB Orange

KG Orange

KLG Orange

KN Orange

KO Orange

KP Orange

KR Orange

KS Orange

KU Orange

KW Orange

KY Orange

N Green

N Pink

N LtGreen LG

N Orange

N Purple

N Red

N Slate

N Blue

N

N

O

O

O

O

O

O

O

O

O

O

O

O

White

Yellow

Orange

Black

Green

Pink

LtGreen

Brown

Purple

Red

Slate

Blue

White

Yellow

G

K

O

P

R

S

U

W

Y

O

B

G

K

LG

N

P

R

S

U

W

Y

NW

NY

O

OB

OG

OK

OLG

ON

NG

NK

NLG

NO

NP

NR

NS

NU

OP

OR

OS

OU

OW

OY


139

140

FW SPECIAL

Red

Red

Red

Slate

Slate

Slate

Slate

Slate

Red

Red

Red

Red

Red

Red

Red

Red

Red

Slate

Slate

Slate

Slate

Slate

Slate

Slate

Letter Sec

Purple P Purple

Letter

P

Combo

P

Pri

Blue

Letter

U

Sec

Blue

Letter

U

Combo

U

Purple P Black

Purple P Green

Purple P Pink

B

G

K

Purple P LtGreen LG

PB

PG

PK

PLG

Blue

Blue

Blue

Blue

U Black

U Green

U Pink

B

G

K

U LtGreen LG

UB

UG

UK

ULG

Purple P Brown N

Purple P Orange O

Purple P Red

Purple P Slate

R

S

Purple P Blue

Purple P White

Purple P Yellow

U

W

Y

PN

PO

PR

PS

PU

PW

PY

Blue

Blue

Blue

Blue

Blue

Blue

Blue

U Brown

U Orange O

U Purple

U Red

U Slate

U White

U Yellow

N

P

R

S

W

Y

UN

UO

UP

UR

US

UW

UY

R Red

R Black

R Green

R Pink

R LtGreen LG

R Brown N

R Orange O

R Purple

R Slate

R Blue

R White

R Yellow

S Slate

S Black

S Green

S Pink

S LtGreen LG

S Brown

S Orange O

S Purple

S Red

S Blue

S White

S Yellow

R

B

G

K

P

S

U

W

Y

S

B

G

K

N

P

R

U

W

Y

R White W White

RB White W Black

RG White W Green

RK White W Pink

RU White W Slate

RW White W Blue

RY White W Yellow

S Yellow Y Yellow

SB Yellow Y Black

SG Yellow Y Green

SK Yellow Y Pink

W

B

G

K

RLG White W LtGreen LG

RN White W Brown N

RO White W Orange O

RP White W Purple

RS White W Red

P

R

S

U

Y

Y

B

G

K

SLG Yellow Y LtGreen LG

SN Yellow Y Brown N

SO Yellow Y Orange O

SP Yellow Y Purple

SR Yellow Y Red

SU Yellow Y Slate

SW Yellow Y Blue

SY Yellow Y White

P

R

S

U

W

YN

YO

YP

YR

YS

YU

YW

WS

WU

WY

Y

YB

YG

YK

YLG

W

WB

WG

WK

WLG

WN

WO

WP

WR


FW SPECIAL

Annexe 2 Torque settings

It is important to remember that ALL suspension bolts and Nyloc nuts will be

Torqued during the set-up stage. During Assembly, all suspension bolts and Nyloc nuts should be “nipped “only and not torque tightened.

Table 2 Torque settings

141


142

FW SPECIAL

Annexe 3 Specifications

Annexe 4 Basic servicing & aftercare

First Oil change

Second Change Reccomended

Routine oil change

Racing oil change

Anti-Freeze – suitable for Aluminium radiators

Brake Fluid change, DOT4, non-racing

Brake fluid change, DOT 4 racing

Gearbox ATF oil non-racing

Gearbox ATF oil - racing

Differential, Check oil level

All moving parts

Wheel bearings and swivel joints

1,000 miles

3,000 miles

6,000 miles or Annual

1,000 miles

Check strength each winter

3 years

Yearly or after overheating

Check level annually, change every 12,000 miles

Check level frequently and change every 3,000 miles maximum

Annually, change every

12,000 miles

Lubricate annually

Replace at 60,000 miles


FW SPECIAL

Annexe 5 Booking an IVA & Vehicle

Registration

Booking an IVA

The IVA may be booked following the guidance to be found at: www.gov.uk/vehicle-approval/individual-vehicle-approval

Vehicle testing is managed by VOSA, the Vehicle & Operator Services Agency. Read about VOSA at: www.gov.uk/government/organisations/vehicle-and-operator-services-agency

It is wise to contact VOSA, significantly before your build is complete, to enquire about lead times for test centres – these can vary significantly so try to make you build completion safely coincide with test centre availability. It is not possible to forecast here because lead time in recent years have been so variable but in general wait times are shorter in the Winter.

You will be applying for a Basic IVA for a class M1 vehicle and you will need to submit the Chassis VIN – Vehicle Identification Number and pay the fee in advance.

The IVA

When you have an appointment or a clear idea of the likely date, contact your insurer if you intend to drive there. It is permissible to drive directly to a test centre if you are insured, without number plates and to return home directly after the test. You will of course be in your untested car so your safety and that of others relies on the thoroughness of your pre-checks. That responsibility may feel too great and if so take the car to the test on a trailer.

If you do drive there it is necessary to display a notice in place of the number plate to avoid being stopped by the Police. “IVA Test” should suffice. Have your Insurance certificate with you anyway and allow plenty of time – this will be the first outing and little early life failures are not unknown. Travelling with a back-up vehicle is also wise.

Go to the IVA with a set of basic tools and any IVA compliance parts to deal with any sharp edges or missing nut caps etc. You will be allowed to correct minor deficiencies if you can do it immediately. A tester’s approach will be influenced by the first impression so don’t leave the car looking in any way untidy or giving the impression of being


143

144

FW SPECIAL

incomplete. A tidy build will be seen as through and less likely to exhibit problems so don’t provoke a suspicion. The test is throrough and will take several hours so take food and drink. Observe and be helpful but not intrusive. Photos may usually be taken but do ask first.

If a fault is found, accept it. If a query is raised answer it completely and thruthfully or your credibility may be destroyed and a minor fail might become a major e.g. full retest.

A minor failure will mean you will need to return by appointment in a couple of weeks to demonstrate correction and a minor re-test fee. A major failure casts doubt over the whole build and will mean a full re-test and repeat full fee. This is very unlikely unless substantial error has been made. Of course, if the result is a pass, the valuable certificate of approval will be issued and only Vehicle Registration will be required.

Applying for Registration

In 2012/13 the Government closed most DVLA local centres and that was both good and bad news. It was previously necessary to arrive with the vehicle and all of its documentation at your local centre: Certificate of Roadworthiness from VOSA and proof of purchase of your all-new parts to warrant that this vehicle is worthy of a new registration and not a Q plate as awared to vehicles of “Q”uestionable origin – e.g. donor vehicle based and mixed old and new parts.

Registrations are now only via Swansea and by post – so send off the paperwork

(registered post) / payment and wait. It is wise to ask the lead time when you apply to avoid a lot of pacing up and down. When the registration document arrives, have your new plates made and fix to the car. Call your Insurance company to notify them that the car is now registered. Do not drive it on the public roads until they formally confirm you are now fully insured. www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/new-registrations

For any type of newly registered vehicle, you must fill in a V55/4 form - used to register a new vehicle, including new imported vehicles and newly-built (kit) cars.


FW SPECIAL

About insurance for kit cars

Prices can vary greatly so it is is well worth getting several quotes. Savings can be made by volunteering self-repair after an accident but bear in mind that often means fixing a bent chassis (how confident might you be?). Build-up insurance used to be commonly available for kit cars during assembly but now if you want it it will be rare and normally only for whole years. If you are building in a garage and it is declared to your household insurer and the premium paid it will be covered until the car is completed - at which point it has to be described as a car for insurance purposes and not an insured

DIY project. Not all household insurance covers garage-storage and contents so again seek clarification. If your garage is remote or off-premises you will pay a larger premium. You may be asked if you wish legal indemnity cover. It would always seem wise if it costs a little and potentially saves personal solvency after any claim!

Note: Insurers cannot insure a vehicle for more than a month on just a chassis number so make sure the test is booked for IVA before insuring. If it runs to the limit and the test is successful, notify your insurer that that you are applying for the registration and provide evidence. The insurer will then likely be satisfied and extend the temporary cover up to a fixed date.

Kit Car insurance is almost always mileage capped and typically at 5,000 miles per year

– extra cover is required for continental travel or higher mileage. Most will not insure you for use as a daily commuter vehicle or wil eant an extra premium. If mleage capped, you will need to give a mileage reading to your insurer.

If you are a member of a kit car club discouts can normally be obtained.

Thanks for choosing Westfield

Enjoy the lifestyle!

145


146

FW SPECIAL

Annexe 6 Remember List

Item Tick Entered


Due Complete

Tick Entered

FW SPECIAL

Item Due Complete

147


FW Special Part2_14_5_2014_VFINALv4

Welcome again

CHAPTERS

Contents

18 Engine installation

Introduction, preparation and safety

Drilling the Gearbox rear-mounting plate

Rigging the engine with a load leveller

Engine and engine bay preparation

If the steering connecting rod is already inserted – it is best to remove it – this only takes a minute.

Engine Insertion

Optional gearbox filler hole

DO NOT attempt to make this hole with a holesaw – it does not work in

Aluminium.

Engine connections

Spark-plugs and coil

Air temperature sensor

Crankshaft position sensor

Cam position sensor (NOT USED)

Coolant Temperature sensor

Throttle position sensor

Reverse switch

Temperature sender – temperature gauge

Idle motor connection

Cooling fan switch – fitted later

Engine Earth Strap

Alternator

BROWN B+

BROWN

YELLOW D+

NOT CONNECTED W

Starter solenoid

Lower LHS Rear

Note: one of the brown spade terminals may need the terminal hole to be enlarged – use a stepped cone drill and hold in pliers or a vice to do it – slow and gentle because it is thin brass.

Fuel Injector connections

NOTE: the leads are paired 1/4 and

2/3 – use their lead length to determine their connection position.

Fitting the oil pressure sender

Manifold fitting

Fitting the Scuttle Plate (OPTION POINT)

Clutch connection

Fitting the throttle cable

Throttle cable sheath shortening

Or to put it another way - maybe you have plenty of sheath length but a shortage of core length.

Throttle body, Throttle cable installation

19 Cooling system

Cooling system, General

Radiator fitting

Fit the Horn now

Fit the fan switch

Radiator build-up

Note: removing part of the washer may be needed in order to clear the mount. (Appearances may vary).

Connect the fan switch wires and the fan supply.

Bottom radiator connection

See p38 & p39 for references

So the rule here is to leave everything loose until the complete assembly is built and then start to clamp-up. Expect to do this a few times to gain the best result.

Looking down from the top-centre of the radiator towards the bottom hose. This keeps the fastener accessible when the body is fitted.

Loose-fit the Scuttle

Useful views

See for references

Fitting the Aluminium pipes

See & for references

Making the top heater hose connection

See the next section for the heater bypass if the heater is not fitted.

Heater bypass (when a heater is not fitted)

Mounting and connecting the expansion tank

If not sure, leave this operation until the body and bonnet are fitted or look ahead to chapter 22

Bodywork Page 69

Final assembly

Front of engine

Referring to Page 38 & Page 39.

Rear of Engine

Make certain that there is a good earth to the sender base via the eyelet washer because this is the only possible earth path!

Cooling system checks

so much better to find them now than under pressure at full temperature!

20 Pre-build-up work and tests

Introduction

Brake bleeding

DOT 5 cannot be used with anti-lock braking systems but that is a saloon car type of issue.

180 °C (356 °F)