FW Special Part2_14_5_2014_VFINALv4

FW Special Part2_14_5_2014_VFINALv4
Welcome again
You are now on part two, at over half-way and on the home run. From here your vehicle
will develop rapidly into the sportscar you have always desired – enjoy!
Julian Turner
Managing Director
© 2013 Westfield Sportscars Ltd
FW SPECIAL
CHAPTERS
18 Engine installation............................................................................................ 8
2
19 Cooling system ............................................................................................... 35
20 Pre-build-up work and tests ........................................................................... 54
21 Panelling ........................................................................................................ 62
22 Bodywork ....................................................................................................... 69
23 Dash-panel & Steering Wheel Fitting ........................................................... 113
24 Interior and trim ........................................................................................... 121
25 Set-up........................................................................................................... 131
26 Pre-IVA......................................................................................................... 133
Annexe 1 Wiring colour decoders ...................................................................... 139
Annexe 2 Torque settings .................................................................................. 143
Annexe 3 Specifications ..................................................................................... 144
Annexe 4 Basic servicing & aftercare ................................................................. 145
Annexe 5 Booking an IVA & Vehicle Registration .............................................. 146
Annexe 6 Remember List ................................................................................... 149
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FW SPECIAL
Contents
18 Engine installation............................................................................................ 8
Introduction, preparation and safety ...................................................................... 8
Drilling the Gearbox rear-mounting plate................................................................ 9
Rigging the engine with a load leveller ................................................................. 11
Engine and engine bay preparation ....................................................................... 13
Engine Insertion .................................................................................................... 16
Optional gearbox filler hole ................................................................................... 19
Engine connections ............................................................................................... 20
Spark-plugs and coil .......................................................................................................... 20
Air temperature sensor ...................................................................................................... 21
Crankshaft position sensor ................................................................................................ 22
Cam position sensor (NOT USED) ...................................................................................... 22
Coolant Temperature sensor ............................................................................................. 22
Throttle position sensor..................................................................................................... 23
Reverse switch .................................................................................................................. 24
Temperature sender – temperature gauge ........................................................................ 24
Idle motor connection ....................................................................................................... 25
Cooling fan switch – fitted later ........................................................................................ 26
Engine Earth Strap ............................................................................................................. 27
Alternator .......................................................................................................................... 28
Starter solenoid ................................................................................................................. 28
Fuel Injector connections .................................................................................................. 29
Fitting the oil pressure sender ........................................................................................... 29
Manifold fitting ...................................................................................................... 30
Fitting the Scuttle Plate (OPTION POINT) ............................................................. 31
Clutch connection .................................................................................................. 31
Fitting the throttle cable........................................................................................ 32
Throttle cable sheath shortening....................................................................................... 32
Throttle body, Throttle cable installation .......................................................................... 33
19 Cooling system ............................................................................................... 35
Cooling system, General ........................................................................................ 35
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FW SPECIAL
Radiator fitting ...................................................................................................... 40
Fit the Horn now ................................................................................................................ 40
Fit the fan switch ............................................................................................................... 40
4
Radiator build-up............................................................................................................... 41
Bottom radiator connection ............................................................................................... 44
Loose-fit the Scuttle .............................................................................................. 45
Useful views .......................................................................................................... 47
Fitting the Aluminium pipes .................................................................................. 48
Making the top heater hose connection ................................................................. 49
Heater bypass (when a heater is not fitted) .......................................................... 49
Mounting and connecting the expansion tank ....................................................... 50
Final assembly ....................................................................................................... 50
Front of engine .................................................................................................................. 50
Rear of Engine ................................................................................................................... 51
Cooling system checks........................................................................................... 52
20 Pre-build-up work and tests ........................................................................... 54
Introduction .......................................................................................................... 54
Brake bleeding ................................................................................................................... 54
Checks before fitting the wheels ....................................................................................... 58
21 Panelling ........................................................................................................ 62
General .................................................................................................................. 62
Seat Bulkhead ....................................................................................................... 62
Transmission tunnel sides ..................................................................................... 64
Tunnel Top-Panels ................................................................................................. 65
Outside panels ....................................................................................................... 67
Inside Panels ......................................................................................................... 68
22 Bodywork ....................................................................................................... 69
General .................................................................................................................. 69
Checks ............................................................................................................................... 69
Set-up ................................................................................................................................ 70
Building the body .................................................................................................. 71
Mounting the body on the chassis ..................................................................................... 74
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FW SPECIAL
Nosecone fitting .................................................................................................... 78
Fitting the spats and headlamp bracket ................................................................ 85
Indicator pods ....................................................................................................... 91
Fitting the bonnet latches.................................................................................................. 92
Windscreen fitting ................................................................................................. 92
Nosecone grille ...................................................................................................... 97
Standard roll-over bar fitting................................................................................. 98
Seatbelt mounting and Fuel filler cap mounting .................................................... 99
Preparation ........................................................................................................................ 99
Fuel filler-cap installation pt1............................................................................................ 99
Seatbelt eyebolts ............................................................................................................. 100
Fuel filler-cap pt2 ............................................................................................................ 101
Boot-box fitting ................................................................................................... 102
Boot-lid fitting ..................................................................................................... 103
Cycle-wing fitting ................................................................................................ 105
Rear wing protector spats ................................................................................... 110
23 Dash-panel & Steering Wheel Fitting ........................................................... 113
Calibrating the speedometer ............................................................................... 113
Securing the loom for the Dashboard .................................................................. 114
Dashboard panel fitting ....................................................................................... 115
Wiring the Dashboard.......................................................................................... 118
Building the Steering Wheel BASIC ..................................................................... 120
24 Interior and trim ........................................................................................... 121
Interior side-panels ............................................................................................. 121
Carpet fitting and trim ......................................................................................... 121
Seat belt fitting ................................................................................................... 124
Upper harness mounting points ...................................................................................... 124
Seat Fitting ...................................................................................................................... 125
Dash trim fitting .................................................................................................. 126
Mirror fitting ........................................................................................................ 127
Elbow pad fitting ................................................................................................. 128
Sidescreen fitting (Option) .................................................................................. 128
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Knee protector plates ........................................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.
25 Set-up........................................................................................................... 131
Set-up general ..................................................................................................... 131
6
Engine set-up ...................................................................................................... 131
Initial start-up engine settings ............................................................................ 132
Standard engine ........................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Throttle body engine .................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Suspension set-up ............................................................................................... 132
26 Pre-IVA......................................................................................................... 133
Adding safety protection ..................................................................................... 133
Checks and safety measures................................................................................ 134
Front of the car ................................................................................................................ 134
Torqued nuts and bolts .................................................................................................... 134
Cabin – physical hazards ................................................................................................. 134
Instrumentation and Dash indicators .............................................................................. 135
Electrical functions .......................................................................................................... 135
Wheels and tyres ............................................................................................................. 135
Steering ........................................................................................................................... 136
Lights and indicators ....................................................................................................... 136
Safety .............................................................................................................................. 137
Annexe 1 Wiring colour decoders ...................................................................... 139
Annexe 2 Torque settings .................................................................................. 143
Annexe 3 Specifications ..................................................................................... 144
Annexe 4 Basic servicing & aftercare ................................................................. 145
Annexe 5 Booking an IVA & Vehicle Registration .............................................. 146
Booking an IVA .................................................................................................... 146
The IVA................................................................................................................ 146
Applying for Registration..................................................................................... 147
About insurance for kit cars................................................................................. 148
Annexe 6 Remember List ................................................................................... 149
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FW SPECIAL
Table of Figures
Figure 1 Gearbox oil filler hole option ....................................................................... 19
Figure 2 Cooling system parts explosion ........................................................... 38
Figure 3 Cooling system simplified assembly diagram ..................................... 39
Figure 4 Panel, Tunnel side and upper top................................................................ 64
Figure 5 Transmission tunnel Panels top-set ............................................................. 65
Figure 6 Fitting the body to the chassis ............................................................ 75
Figure 2 Body fitting technique ................................................................................ 76
Figure 3 Body positioning ........................................................................................ 77
Figure 4 Nosecone trial positioning .......................................................................... 78
Figure 10 Nosecone hinge location.................................................................... 79
Figure 6 Alternative nosecone hinge arrangement ..................................................... 81
Figure 7 Alternative (larger) nosecone hinge ............................................................ 81
Figure 13 Nosecone Tee hinge standard method.............................................. 82
Figure 9 Rear body panel mounting bracket fixing..................................................... 84
Figure 15 Jigging the windscreen position ....................................................... 93
Figure 16 Lashing the Dash loom to the Dash rail .......................................... 114
Figure 17 Dash panel lashed for wiring ........................................................... 115
Figure 13 Scuttle edge profiling for the Dash panel (contoured Dash)....................... 116
List of Tables
Table 1 Dash, wire decoder .............................................................................. 118
Table 2 Torque settings .................................................................................... 143
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7
FW SPECIAL
18
Engine installation
TOOLS
8
Spanners/Sockets
Imperial
Metric
Spanners Spanners
Sockets
Sockets
Other Tools
Engine hoist & load leveller
Towels or thick cloths
Allen keys
MATERIALS
Gearbox oil
Lithium grease
Chassis position On Axel stands (best) or wheels (need to be fitted)
People 2 is best
Time
Data on completion
19 hrs % Complete 66%
Seek help for the engine insertion if you can - it is far safer. It
General advice
is wise to read the whole chapter before commencing.
Introduction, preparation and safety
It is well worth reading this whole chapter before commencing and consider the option
later in the chapter.
Okay, this is a really interesting part and it feels like you are getting somewhere when the
engine goes in and it is also a time to be especially careful with safety.
The right equipment is essential whether hired, bought or borrowed and it must be in safe
condition. You will need an engine crane or hoist attached to a load-rated beam. The
crane is better because the engine can be moved on castors into the car rather than the
car being pushed under the hoist (which means the wheels have to be on the car).
It is best to mount the car on axel stands at this point – 4-off, near each corner for
stability. Put cloth on each to guard the powder-coating and ensure the stands are on
horizontal members so that they do not slip. Make sure they are level and stable on their
bases. When settled, the car will be very secure. Set it high enough that you can reach
under to work on the underside. If you do work underneath, ensue that safety blocks
independent of the axel stands are in-place should the car move. It is very unwise to
work underneath alone or in fact perform any of the next tasks on you own.
Apart from the extra pair of hands, another pair of eyes looking in the areas you cannot
see will prevent accidents, collisions or damage.
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FW SPECIAL
So, if using an engine crane it is very wise to use a load-leveller as well. This will also
permit the engine to be inclined back and forth to give the best possible route into the
transmission tunnel and engine bay.
If you don’t use a leveller then the engine and
gearbox will need to be supported at its balance
point. The balance point is just behind the engine
block on the clutch bell-housing. Another strap
horizontally around the engine around the vertical
load bearing strap will hold it in-place. Be aware
of where the load will fall when lifting and ensure
no fragile plastic parts might be crush or rippedoff by the tension in the straps. Think again about
how that load-bearing strap might move or slip
when the load is being inclined. If lifting this way also you must connect a safety chain
to the lifting eyes such that if it slips the chains will prevent a serious accident. The load
leveller is by far the best solution.
Drilling the Gearbox rear-mounting plate
It is much easier to drill
the
gearbox
bearer
mounting holes now than
after engine insertion.
The plate has two existing
slots. The gearbox sits
well forward on this plate
and the holes will be close
to the front edge. There
is ample bearer capability
when this is completed so
do not be concerned with
the edge proximity.
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9
FW SPECIAL
Mark the exact centre line of the plate fore and aft. Measure 95mm between centres and
draw on the lines fore and aft. Mark 45 degrees lines from the apex of the slotted holes
towards the new centre line as show. Ensure that they look even about the centre line.
Now punch the centre to prevent drill drift. A final visual check is wise before drilling.
10
45 Degrees
9 mm
Hole
95mm
Centres
9 mm
Hole
45 Degrees
Select a pilot drill of 3 - 3.5 mm and drill each hole. Check that they still look parallel to
the edge before drilling larger and then check for 95mm centres. If not, ease the hole
centre over by using side thrust on the drill bit – not too much or the drill will break! Next,
drill with about a 6mm drill and check the parallelism and the pitch is still 95mm about
the centre-line. Increase the drill to 9mm (reduce drill speed to slow here) and drill again,
check the result. When performing the final drilling, use near zero down-force to prevent
grab and keep the drill speed slow.
The resultant holes will be a very easy fit for 8mm bolts when they are inserted. When
the engine is in-place, centre the gear-change extension and sight the hole positions.
Adjust the engine position until there is perfect clearance. If there is a little overlap and
a 8mm bolt will not pass though (unlikely) then just fettle through the bearer from above
with a round file.
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FW SPECIAL
The bearer bracket is lipped and it may be difficult to engage the bolt head with a socket
but there is an easy solution.
Use a 8mm, high-tensile set-screw of about 40mm length. Apply a nut and screw it all of
the way home to the head and tighten until either the corners align or are set at alternate
so that the socket will fit over it. This simple technique raises the bolt head above the
flange. Use a small washer top and bottom.
Rigging the engine
with a load leveller
As explained previously, a load
leveller is by far the best and
safest way to insert an engine.
Lay a large towel or blanket over
the cam-cover to avoid damage –
ensure that it wraps around the
sides so that the chains when
attached do not gouge.
The two fitted engine bearers may be used by looping the chains through and back to the
suspension eye. Fit the chains as tightly as possible.
Ensure that the adjusting handle faces away from the crane.
Use fixings on the side of the engine to mount the other two chains. Use a large penny
washer over the chain to be assured that it cannot slip off and drive the bolt home (it
does not need to be torqued, nipped will do). Hang the chain on the suspension hook –
again keeping the chain as short as possible.
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11
FW SPECIAL
12
Finally add a little tension via
the crane and tighten the
suspension nuts until the rig is
level, low and all of the chains
are tight. Inspect carefully to
ensure that plastic will not be
scarred, crushed or cut off
during lifting.
Lift a little way to ensure that the load is settled and will not suddenly jump or shift. The
load is now ready for positioning. Start by levelling the engine; if it is not already level.
Park activity at that point for a moment while engine and engine-bay bay are prepared.
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FW SPECIAL
Engine and engine bay preparation
If the steering connecting
rod is already inserted –
it is best to remove it – this
only takes a minute.
Remove the two securing
bolts on the UJ shackles.
Pull up the top of the
steering column in the
passenger compartment to
withdraw the top splines
while
holding
the
connecting shaft. Now pull
the shaft out from the rack
spline – store safely.
13
Unlock the steering lock to pull the shaft
It is much easier
and
safer
to
remove the RHS
engine bearer by
undoing the three
bolts
to
the
engine. It will be
re-attached just as
the engine nears
its final position.
Remove the LHS
chassis
engine
Chassis mounting
bracket for now.
It is inserted later
with the engine nearly home.
Pull all cables out of the bay and tie them back so that they will not be trapped and
damaged. Route them to the correct side of the engine now and tie them back to prevent
traps.
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FW SPECIAL
14
Remove the gear-leaver – 3 bolts only. Extract vertically
and dust-cap the end of the open tube with Duct tape
silicone can be used to hold the ends down.
The gearbox is empty on delivery (because the oil
would pour out of the output spline). Hang a flag on
the side of the gearbox and put a reminder in the on
the “Remember” list.
If you have a front ARB fitted, remove it to prevent an
obstruction as shown. Undo the upper wishbone bolts
and tap them back with a drift or soft mallet but do not
remove them. This will allow the Bearing-blocks to be
removed. Disconnect the shackles and manipulate the
ARB out through the LHS to the rear of the hub. Reenter this way after engine insertion.
The engine
will not fit
with the
Front
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FW SPECIAL
Hang a piece of cardboard over the transmission tunnel hoop and lay a piece of cardboard
over the front of the Gearbox mounting plate.
15
Drape a large towel or blanket over the front of the chassis in case anything contacts.
The engine bay is now ready to receive the engine.
This engine has throttle bodies and the conventional induction is very similar. Again
remove the input plenum and air filter to prevent damage and to make manoeuvring
easier.
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FW SPECIAL
Engine Insertion
16
Raise the engine horizontal on the
crane and as near as possible to the
front of the car. Lift the engine to just
above the chassis. Lift high enough to
ensure that when the engine swings
that it will not hit anything. Set no
higher than is necessary - for stability.
Manoeuvre the crane to straddle the
front of the car and position the gearlever extension to align with the front
of the scuttle panel.
Use the leveller to point the gearbox
down towards the tunnel. Lower the
crane very gently and progressively
looking for collisions before they occur,
keeping hands out of the way.
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FW SPECIAL
Make a series of small descents and angle changes
as the crane is pushed forward (towards the rear of
the car) to guide the engine in.
Guide the gear-lever extension over the bearer
panel. Use a strap or rope around it to lift - don’t
put hands in harm’s way!
Next guide the Propshaft, lightly lubricated with
Lithium grease, into the back of the gearbox. Set
the level of the engine carefully and this should be
a cinch.
With the engine low in the bay re-insert the LHS
engine bearer chassis bracket.
This is the engine just about in. The RHS engine
bearer has been reconnected and the LHS bearer is
located in its socket.
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
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FW SPECIAL
18
And here, viewed from the
LHS. Take a good look at
the
whole
installation
looking for trapped items or
any misalignment.
If all is okay, fix the rear
gearbox mount mounting
bolts and secure with the
nuts underneath.
Next, the Engine bearer nuts
may be fitted and torqued to
25lbft/33Nm
When it is installed it is a
close fit!
Remove the load-leveller
and then the crane.
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FW SPECIAL
Optional gearbox filler hole
When the engine is inserted it is very difficult to access the gearbox filler hole. There are
two options to (a) squeeze the oil in from below. Put the tube into the hole and bend it
over and squeeze the oil from below and top-up whenever the bottle is empty. OR (b)
make a hole in the panel and plug it with a blanking plug.
Note DO NOT attempt to
make this hole with a holesaw – it does not work in
Aluminium.
Use a chassis
punch or a stepped cone drill and
make the largest hole that the
80mm
cone drill will accommodate and
will also match a blanking plug.
Remember you will need this to
140mm
be watertight. [The blanking
plug is not supplied.] You could
tape over with duct tape if you Figure 1 Gearbox oil filler hole option
wish. It will be under carpet.
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19
FW SPECIAL
Engine connections
Spark-plugs and coil
20
Now it is time to connect the electrics
to the engine. Ensure that the
battery is not connected yet – leave
the
positive
connection
off
completely to avoid any risks and
keep the safety cover on the
terminal.
This is how the HT leads are
numbered – there is nothing to
connect here and this is just included
for reference.
The coil-pack is connected here on the LHS rear
of the engine.
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Air temperature sensor
21
For the conventional induction, this is the position of the Air-temperature sensor.
On throttle-bodies it is located
here on a flying lead. The
sensor situated on the filter
backplate.
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Crankshaft position sensor
22
LHS rear of the engine
Cam position sensor (NOT USED)
RHS rear of the engine
Coolant Temperature sensor
Front RHS above the alternator.
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FW SPECIAL
Throttle position sensor
[Normal induction engine]
23
RHS upper engine
And on throttle bodies….
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FW SPECIAL
Reverse switch
An adapter is supplied to connect to the loom.
24
Below this is the adapter being bundled in the transmission tunnel.
Temperature sender – temperature gauge
Rear LHS of engine on Hockey-stick cooling system pipe (to be fitted later)
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FW SPECIAL
Idle motor connection
The conventional induction has an idle motor to control the tickover throttle opening, the
throttle body uses the ECU control to establish a tickover and does not use an idle motor
at all.
Idle motor
The idle motor is located on the inside face of the induction system.
The picture above taken from the underside of the intake.
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25
FW SPECIAL
Cooling fan switch – fitted later
26
This is the cooling fan
switch mounted directly
into the radiator. This is
not to be confused with
the temperature sender
which is at the rear of the
engine and sends the
temperature signal to the
gauge independently.
Fan switch
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FW SPECIAL
Engine Earth Strap
27
Earth Strap on rear LHS of
engine, pre-fitted. Connect
to chassis earth stud. Ensure
a good bare-metal contact
The
Earth
bonding point is
at the rear LHS
of Engine on
upper diagonal
cross-member.
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FW SPECIAL
Alternator
Front RHS lower
28
BROWN B+
BROWN
YELLOW D+
NOT CONNECTED W
Starter solenoid
Two
plus
one
BROWN wires and
the RED battery
connection cable
WHITE RED wire
Lower LHS Rear
Note: one of the brown
spade terminals may need
the terminal hole to be
enlarged – use a stepped cone drill
and hold in pliers or a vice to do it –
slow and gentle because it is thin
brass.
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FW SPECIAL
Fuel Injector connections
This is the same for both the
standard induction and the throttle
bodies.
29
NOTE: the leads are paired 1/4 and
2/3 – use their lead length to
determine
their
connection
position.
Fitting the oil pressure
sender
Lower RHS Engine Area
Original Sensor
NOT USED
Remove the blanking plug and
fit the sender with a small
amount of PTFE tape it might
interfere with the earth
connection.
Apply the adapter provided
using thread lock on both
threads and fit as shown.
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Connection G
FW SPECIAL
Manifold fitting
30
To fit the manifold, the dipstick has
to be removed and later replaced.
Undo the retaining nut on the
bracket.
Pull away and upwards – the
bottom of the tube is a push-fit Oring.
Remove the manifold gasket and its securing tape. Remove the gasket carefully – do not
bend or crush.
Make sure that the bolts do not get mixed-up they have to be the right length or you will
damage the head!
Apply the manifold with the gasket behind, attaching a centre bolt first. Gently and evenly
tighten the bolts and then torque on the diagonals to 10lbft/14Nm
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FW SPECIAL
Fitting the Scuttle Plate (OPTION POINT)
31
At this point the scuttle may already be fitted OR the option to fit is later may have been
taken. This option point is linked to Part 1 Manual, Electrical stage 2 and the ECU fitting
(which may also have been delayed).
Fitting the plate at this late stage, allows all of the (soon to be hidden) cables to be stowed
and routed neatly.
Clutch connection
The Clutch cable is routed
around the engine bearer and
back to the clutch actuator arm
using the sleeves where the
cable touches. Secure at one
point with a cable-tie.
Do not forget the rubber
grommet that is strapped to the
actuator arm on delivery – it
prevents the arm wearing away!
Adjust out the slack on the
tensioning thread and then addback in about 3mm of freemovement to make sure the
clutch is certainly disengaged at
idle.
Then tighten the lock-nuts
against each other to retain the
adjustment.
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Fitting the throttle cable
32
This is how the throttle cable is routed
on the standard induction. Note the
quick release clip on the throttle
butterfly actuator quadrant.
The
engine lifting hoop may be used as a
tie-point if required. Route the cable
forward and then to the RHS chassis
edge and then down towards the
throttle pedal. Pass through
the panel and then through the
trunnion.
Cut the core to
length if necessary. If the
sheath is too long and the core
is too short – see below under
Throttle
cable-sheath
shortening.
The trunnion centre hole may need to be drilled-out
a little to pass the core.
Throttle cable sheath shortening
Or to put it another way - maybe you
have plenty of sheath length but a
shortage of core length.
Fix two nuts as shown positioned on
the ferrule and set in a vice. Pull on the
sheath and it will ease out of the crimp.
Pull out the core and then use a
hacksaw to shorten the sheath.
Re-insert the core and thread through
the ferrule, push home the sheath and
the job is done. A small amount of heat
shrink may be used to hold the cable
within the ferrule if preferred.
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PULL OUT
FW SPECIAL
Throttle body,
cable installation
Throttle
The installation is very similar but the
throttle body needs more core length
and may need the sheath modification
above.
If the supplied cable is ball-ended (see
below) make the modification detailed
below or if barrel-ended just clip into
the fork at the end of the quadrant.
NOTE: depending on the cable
resistance, you achieve, it may be
necessary to fit an auxiliary return
spring (tension spring) because the
compression spring above may not be
enough to overcome the cable friction
and it is essential to ensure that the
throttle closes effectively. This is a
custom modification so it is not
covered here but it is fairly simple to
achieve with a tension spring
connected to the top of the quadrant and
attached to a bracket to the left of the picture
above.
You may also find you will need to replace the
throttle ferrule with the one provided with the
throttle bodies – a similar technique to the
sheath shortening above.
This the simple mod for a ball-end cable – otherwise
just slip-in the barrel fitting.
Note – With either of the cables fitted the operation
of the throttle linkage must be checked making sure it
has free range of movement.
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33
FW SPECIAL
34
Completion Table
Comments
Start date
Finish date
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Time
FW SPECIAL
19
Cooling system
TOOLS
Spanners/Sockets
Imperial
Metric
Spanners Spanners
Sockets
Sockets
Use a 7mm socket for
the Jubilee clips
Other Tools
Plumbers pipe-cutter
OR Hacksaw
MATERIALS
Cooling pipe set
Rubber lined P clips
Fitting kit
Offset Tee (Alu) Hockey Stick
(Alu) Large Y- piece (Alu)
Temperature sender
Radiator set & Switch
Chassis position On Axel stands – knee pads desirable here
People
Time
Data on completion
1
14 hrs % Complete 71%
Well worth making trial layouts to understand it before cutting
and fitting. Some of the views are not easy to understand so
General advice
plenty of alternatives are shown in this section and there is
some repetition.
Cooling system, General
It is best to assemble all of the parts before commencing and identify each item positively.
Some of the pipes are actually a source of suitable
bends and shapes - not all of the pipe is necessary.
This gives a degree of choice and some flexibility
about how you pipes will look. A plumber’s pipe
cutter is a good way to cut pipes cleanly - otherwise
use a hacksaw.
The pipe routing from the bottom outlet of the
radiator needs some care and attention to detail.
Many references are made to the component diagrams on Page 38 and the diagram on
Page 39. Put a marker on these pages because the references will be used many times.
When fixing the hoses, think carefully about future maintenance and ensure that the
jubilee clips will be accessible when the body is fitted.
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6
5
2
1
A
C
D
36
B
4
Above scuttle plate
To scuttle
3
16
6
7
I
9
15
10
L
E1
F
11
12
E2
13
8
14
E
H
G
I
K
Cut to suit
heater
connections
Figure 2 Cooling system parts explosion
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Fit as high as
possible short of
colliding with nose
cone
5
A
B
C
If a heater is not
installed, loop from
2 to 6
H1&2
4
1
2
Cap-off the spigot
underneath facing
this way
D
I
6
E1
7
F
3
I
E2
L
Bend J S-bend must
be routed to avoid
collision with the
steering rack gaiter
J
Figure 3 Cooling system simplified assembly diagram
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G
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38
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39
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Radiator fitting
Fit the Horn now
40
If you have not already done so, fit the horn as it is harder
to do once the radiator is fitted. Secure the horn to the
chassis on the brackets provided, using:
• 1 off 6mm x 20mm bolt
•
1 off 6mm spring washer
•
1 off 6mm repair washer
Connect the wiring loom to the horn.
Alternatively
- top fix the horn
Tap the hole or use a Rivsert. Two brackets are better than one.
The views are of the front LHS of the chassis OR to you right when facing the front of the
chassis.
Fit the fan switch
Fit the fan switch as shown. Use a couple of turns of PTFE plumber’s tape to gain a seal
and nip-up tight against the washer provided. DO NOT over- tighten it – fragile thread.
DO NOT trap PTFE under the washer.
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Radiator build-up
Assemble the fan onto the mounting plates as shown using 4 off 6mm bolts and nyloc
nuts. The folded flange on the plate faces the radiator.
These are the parts you will need
From the Radiator kit find these parts and
assemble as shown below.
The lower bolts will be removed again to
mount it so just loosely tighten the lower
nuts for now.
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Use the provided screws to mount the bracket on
the upper radiator mount. The picture below
shows the relative orientation of the radiator.
42
Place the radiator centrally onto the top chassis
rail. It is best to hold the radiator in place with
clamps whilst making it central.
Using a 4.1mm drill bit, drill through the six mounting holes into the top chassis tube.
Rivet in-place using 4.0mm body rivets.
Take care not to crush the radiator fins - they are very fragile
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Remove the plain washer and replace it with a M6 repair washer then secure the radiator
to the lower mounts. Remove the bolts
from the lower frame fixings.
Note: removing part of the washer may
be needed in order to clear the
mount. (Appearances may vary).
Connect the fan switch wires and the
fan supply.
There are two small radiator spigot to be blanked-off at the top and bottom of the radiator.
Use a cap-head screw and silicone as shown. Carefully from the thread with the screw
held perpendicular to the spigot and drive it home.
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Bottom radiator connection
See p38 & p39 for references
44
The “S”-bend will touch the chassis but as there is no movement that is okay provided
that the pipe diameter is not grossly reduced. The T-piece tube (L) that connects to this
must then rise at angle and the tubes and joints must clear: the chassis where it might
move (friction wear), the front in-board anti-roll bar (if fitted) and the steering rack
bellows. It also need to be held securely in a rubber-lined clip and the elbow (I) to the
pump needs to be correctly positioned. So the rule here is to leave everything loose until
the complete assembly is built and then start to clamp-up. Expect to do this a few times
to gain the best result.
This is the first hose connection to the lower spigot of the radiator. It is positioned to
pass over the steering rack gaiter. This may be a rubber or Silicone hose. Fix with a
40mm jubilee clip but only tighten when the next connection has been made
L
J
Right way
Oops inaccessible
body fitted
Jubilee-Clip drive-screw facing up, difficult but
achievable.
Looking down from the top-centre of the radiator
towards the bottom hose. This keeps the fastener
accessible when the body is fitted.
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This hose connects into the T piece with the leg of the Tee (L) facing upwards,
On the back of the
Tee. Connect the
right angle hose (I)
to the water pump
using 40mm jubilee
clips at either end.
The pipe length may
need to be adjusted
to prevent kinks and
the wider pipe collar
may
not
be
necessary for the
pump so just remove
it.
45
I
Connection point 10
(12mm) connected by
pipe K cut to size)
These are views with
the body fitted to
show the finished
result.
The T-piece is then
secured on the outside of
the chassis with a rubberlined clip. Here a spare
piece of rubber tube has been used to
sleeve the 40mm clip and to ensure firm
grip without friction or vibration.
Loose-fit the Scuttle
As it is a while before the bodywork is
going to be fitted, the scuttle needs to be loosely positioned to set-up the pipes. The final
position is determined by the bodywork and everything is referenced to the hinge that fits
the nosecone. Ultimately, all parts of the body are located from that datum point. Loose
fitting is good enough for now though.
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If the Scuttle is placed on the top of the chassis there may be three points of conflict.
The first is the lower edge of the front colliding with the steering column. It will in duecourse be necessary to cut a mouse-hole to accommodate it and it will be necessary to
consider before doing that how it is intended to make it air and water-tight afterwards.
46
Also the inside-rear returns may well collide with the dashboard hoop. It is well worth
mounting the dash on the support tines to assess the correct position. Use a rasp or
power-file to remove excess material. There is not much to risk in doing this because this
part is never visible – just ensure that at least a vestige of the return remains (so that no
gap appears on the outside) and use a rasp pushing from decorative face to coarse face
to prevent flaking the surface. Alternatively you can use a Dremell power tool option.
For guidance, the front lower edge of the scuttle will finish about 200mm from the front
edge of the scuttle-plate. This makes sure that the mouse-hole height is about right.
Cut out for the upper
steering column
This is how the heater pipes will appear through the scuttle when using the heater option.
The grommets are
custom and are
not part of the kit.
And this is the
steering column
relief
being
marked-up.
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Useful views
These are major parts of the thermostat
housing from LHS above and RHS below
see below.
47
See for references
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Fitting the Aluminium pipes
See & for references
48
Pipes (D) and (F) are best fitted at the same
time to ensure they both align properly.
D
They both run along the left-hand side top rail
with (D) towards the outside and (F) towards
the inside. As before, make up the whole
assembly loose before committing to making
fixings. Cut hoses too long and then reduce
progressively.
F
(D) Connection (1) will route to the underside
of the Expansion vessel so that determines the
F
D
F
Non heater option (D) with
Temperature
vertical position of the underside spigot and
thus the vessel itself. (D) Connection 2 is
routed to the lower hose from the heater (if
fitted) and should align with the hose or the
factory drilled holes. The downward bend at
(D3) will connect to the upwards facing limb of
the Tee (J), connected by a cut portion of pipe (K).
D
Heater option
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Tape 3-way tube (D) into place to assist with layout. Cut a piece of 32mm hose (E2) circa
200mm long to locate pipe (J) on the top spigot of the radiator. Check for alignment with
major spigot on the thermostat housing and use another piece of pipe (E), (E1) to make
the connection. It should be about 100mm long and then reduce the length to fit it.
Leave it all loose at this point and fix it later. (The sender wires may need to be extended.)
Making the top heater hose connection
See the next section for the heater bypass if the heater is not fitted.
Two pipes type (H) are provided as a kind
of kit to make the connections to the heater.
This pipe has several pre-formed bends so it
is possible to choose the best sections to
make the connections.
H
H
As (F) is loose-fitted it may be pulled apart
at any time for improved access. Route the
pipe from the top heater hose connection to
the underside of the thermostat housing
facing (6) the left-hand side. Select the best
shape and length to make the connection
and cut to oversize and then whittle it down
to give the ideal fit. Re-attach the hockeystick (F) to test the fit. Leave it loose at this
stage.
Now address the lower heater hose. Choose
a straight section for this and cut to length
to meet (D2) and loose fit it to (2) on the Y
piece.
Heater bypass (when a heater is not fitted)
If the heater is not fitted, the circuit has to be replaced by a link pipe. A connection needs
to be made from (D2) to the spigot (6) on the underside of the thermostat housing facing
the left-hand side. The shaped part of tube (H) will be useful to make these connections.
(See previous page picture).
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Mounting and connecting the expansion tank
50
The scuttle has not been fitted
at this point so it will need to
be temporarily mounted to
identify the fitting position above connection (1) on the Y
tube as shown in on Page 38.
The expansion tank needs to
be fitted as high as the bonnet
will allow.
If not sure, leave this operation until the body and
bonnet are fitted or look ahead to chapter 22
Bodywork Page 69
Final assembly
Front of engine
Referring to Page 38 & Page 39.
When sure that the assembly works, it is time to make the final assembly but expect that
small adjustments to pipe lengths will be necessary.
Lay-in pipe D and
connect each pipe
K
with a jubilee clip
H
placed so that it
may
be
easily
serviced in future.
L
J
Make the vertical
I
connection
from
the
descending
part of pipe (D) to the upstanding Tee piece from pipe (L) with a cut section from rubber
pipe (K). Next fit the water pump pipe (I) making sure the Jubilee clips are accessible
after body assembly.
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Rear of Engine
Hockey-stick to Engine
Connect the hockey-stick pipe (I) to Spigot (F) via 32mm hose section (E1) using two
jubilee clips.
Insert the temperature sender
using a couple of turns of PTFE
tape to gain a seal. (It may be
necessary
to
extend
the
connecting wires depending on
how the loom has been routed).
Make certain that there is a good
earth to the sender base via the
eyelet washer because this is the
only possible earth path!
F
I
Fit a rubber line clip to
the pipe on the top
cross member near the
radiator.
Use
a
threaded insert or tap
directly into the chassis.
Fit another on the rear
cross member
Y piece to Heater and Expansion tank
Make the connection at the radiator end to pipe (K) from Tee (L) and lay the tube across
the scuttle-plate (If you have optioned not to fit it yet then now is the time to do it) and
mount using two rubber lined clips as shown above. Temporarily make the connections
to the Heater (if fitted if not make the bypass connection) and to the Expansion tank.
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Overflow Return-pipe
Use pipe (C) from the Expansion tank horizontal spigot (5) to the upstand spigot on the
thermostat housing (7) and fasten with a jubilee clips at either end.
52
7
5
Capping-off unused spigots
Cap off two spigots.
Cooling system checks
It is now wise to check all joints and that all components have been fitted and then trial
fill the system before it is pressurised later. Inspect all joints to look for leaks – so much
better to find them now than under pressure at full temperature!
The expansion tank and heater hoses will need to be disconnected when removing the
scuttle ready for body fitting so do not bother about filling with anti-freeze at this stage.
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53
Completion Table
Comments
Start date
Finish date
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
Time
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20
Pre-build-up work and tests
TOOLS
54
Spanners/Sockets
Imperial
Metric
Spanners Spanners
Sockets
Sockets
Other Tools
Brake bleeding set (options)
Miniature 8mm ring spanner
MATERIALS
Brake fluid
Lubricants if not already used
Chassis position On axel stands (best) or wheels
People
Time
% Complete 74 %
Data on completion
2
7 hrs
Brake-bleeding and checks in this section. It is worth being
General advice careful with the checks – anything wrong is easily corrected at
this stage but more difficult later.
Introduction
Brake bleeding
Brake fluid selection
There are two groups of brake fluid – the common polyethylene glycol based fluid or
“glycol” colloquially and the alternative Silicone.
Polyethylene glycol arrives under different temperature performance ratings and is
known as any of the following: DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1.
Silicone is DOT 5 and not to be confused with DOT 5.1 which is “glycol”.
In either case, the increasing number is about its temperature rating. For high
performance cars and certainly for racing the highest performance is desirable.
Choosing between Glycol and Silicone is a day-one choice because they are not
compatible in the system and switching from one to the other afterwards will destroy
the brake seals.
DOT 3 is a base-grade and is not worth the risk with its low performance. DOT4
is the modern-day standard for most saloons and has a good temperature rating.
(Supplied as Standard). DOT 5.0 Silicone and DOTE 5.1 are both high performance
grades suitable for racing but there is one other differences worth noting. Glycols are
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
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hygroscopic and will absorb water over time – they need to be changed frequently
because the water content will degrade the temperature rating and decreases braking
ability (spongy pedal). Silicone based fluids are hydrophobic and cannot take up water
so the viscosity index is more stable.
DOT 5 cannot be used with anti-lock braking systems but that is a saloon car type of
issue.
So how do they compare?
Boiling point ranges
Dry boiling point
Wet boiling point
DOT 3
205 °C (401 °F)
140 °C (284 °F)
DOT 4
230 °C (446 °F)
155 °C (311 °F)
DOT 5
260 °C (500 °F)
180 °C (356 °F)
DOT 5.1
260 °C (500 °F)
180 °C (356 °F)
Why a wet boiling point for DOT5 - something that is hydrophobic? Even Silicone will
mis-perform if there is latent water in the system. But presuming there is not, then only
the upper rating applies.
DOT 5 is a silicone-based brake fluid (contains at least 70% by weight of a di-organo
polysiloxane).
•
The car is supplied with DOT 4 glycol which is fine for everyday use.
•
Don’t choose DOT 3 it isn’t worth the risk.
•
If you wish to use the quite expensive DOT 5 Silicone that is what you will always
use.
•
If you use Glycol that is what you will always use.
•
Glycol needs to be changed every two years – Silicone lasts until the next major
brake repair so likely it will last ten years.
The only other point is that Silicone needs to be bled carefully as it can take up some
foamy air while bleeding. See below for advice.
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Brake bleeding systems
Conventional method
The old-fashioned way needs two people.
56
•
Fill reservoir
•
Pump a little and top-up
•
Open furthest bleed valve and via pipe
pump fluid and air into a jar.
•
Hold brake pedal down on the last stroke
and tighten bleed nipple
•
Repeat for each nipple ending with the
shortest run
•
Repeat circuit until the fluid is clear of air
and the brake pedal feels rock-hard
This picture shows the nipple on Westfield 4-pot
(upgrade) callipers. On the rear brakes there are
four nipples and each must be bled starting with
the lower nipples. Replace the dust caps when
finished. The nipples are best opened with a tiny
8mm ring spanner to avoid rounding the corners.
Semi-automatic, one person methods
As can be seen it is not possible to be at the nipple
and the brake pedal at the same time so there
are automatic brake-bleeding systems. They rely
on either pressure feeding from the master
cylinder or by sucking from the nipple end. Most
professional systems are the latter and
expensive.
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Simple systems like the Gunsons
“Easy Bleed” are cheap and
effective. That uses a reservoir at
the cylinder-end to stop the Master
cylinder running dry and taking in
air. That one uses tyre pressure
(at 20 psi) to provide the pressure
– very simple and one-person
operation.
Here is the reservoir placed next
to the Master Cylinder and a
pressurised cap is applied in place
of the normal cap. The input
pressure line descends over the
side to a tyre as a source of
pressure (limit to 20 PSI)
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Releasing residual air
Known in the trade as the “Final Air
Release Technique” (or its acronym)
- it is very simple.
58
Make a wooden batten to press
the brake pedal down hard for 24
hours and brace it against the rear
bulkhead top-rail. The pedal will
often harden from that action
alone. If not perfect, bleed (a
little) again and the odd small
bubble will vent. Job done.
This picture shows the bulkhead
panel fitted from the next chapter
so it may not look like this.
Checks before fitting the
wheels
Tick the checks as you go.
Braking system
Apply pressure to the brakes and sustain it – use a friend or your batten as above. Visit
each and every union, joint and bleed nipple to look for seepage.
•
Three unions, Front, Brake switch and Rear (torch required and possible a long
reach mirror)
•
All four of the flexible brake lines, both ends
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•
A visual pass slowly each of the brake lines (crack or pin-holes)
•
The brake master cylinder unions
•
The brake callipers (cylinder leakage?)
•
Brake fluid level correct?
•
Brake level low switch connections made
This is a worthy 10 minute investment for safety. If you find a leak a tweak on the
union usually fixes it. Wipe away any residue then check again a day later.
Electrical
Simple again but these could save much time and anguish later.
•
Battery should be terminals forward towards engine with Red +ve to the LHS of
the car
•
Positive may be connected at this stage but Negative should be disconnected at
the battery and tied back safely.
•
Ensure that the Safety caps are closed over the terminals – may need to shape
•
Visual check along the whole loom. No traps, no pinch points, nothing loose or
flailing, no cuts or damage. Nothing should trap or collide with moving parts. All
parts liable to friction are protected with a sleeve.
•
All parts necessary for servicing are accessible
•
Check all of the wires into the fuse blocks are tight – risk of sliding a tang under
the plastic rather than into the spade connector – hard to detect by any other
means.
•
Fuses are home and secure.
•
Connectors are strapped where they should be located.
•
All possible loom connections are made (no dash yet)
•
Check all sensor connections including the speedometer sensor on the front
wheel.
•
Check alternator – correct connections and that they are secure
•
Check starter solenoid and ensure the terminals tight
•
Check the fuel cut-off – press down on the top to ensure the connector ball is in
contact – or the car will not start because the pump will be isolated.
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60
•
Check the polarity on the fuel pump - Light Green/White to +ve, Black (ground)
to –ve (chassis).
•
Check the fuel level sender connections
•
Make a splash-test on the battery. Momentarily touch the chassis earth to the
negative terminal – there should be no spark. If there is, some fault finding is
required. If there is a big spark check that the battery is the right polarity!
•
Finally check for tidiness – are you satisfied with appearance – change now while
it is still possible.
Fuel system
• The fuel pump has already been electrically checked above
•
Check the fuel lines in strict sequence
•
Connections to tank are secure
•
Fuel line routing to pump is secure, protected from abrasion and secure on
pump. Fuel pipe has been used and the marking is visible. True for all rubber
hoses from here.
•
Check pump output to filter INLET and the OUTLET to solid fuel pipe.
•
Check both fuel lines to the engine bay. Supported, no contacts, sleeves where
there is an abrasion risk. Supply pipe to fuel rail connection is secure.
•
Supply rail to regulator secure and regulator to return pipe secure and tied-down.
•
Return line to tank has already been visually inspected so go to rearward
connection to the return fuel pipe. Ensure this pipe cannot be ruptured by
suspension parts.
•
Check that the return union is secure
•
Check the Tank breather Pipe is in-place with a rising and then desending loop
just above the tank, tied but not crushed and secured at the tank.
•
Safety cap is on the tank
•
Tank straps are secure and foam buffering underneath is effective
Lubricants
• Differential filled and plug secure, no leaks
•
Gearbox filled, cap secure and no leaks
•
Engine oil filled and correct level, checking remodelled dipstick at the same time.
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
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Trial Connect the battery
• Try the power splash test now if it was not performed above – no spark when
the ground is momentarily connected.
•
Leave the chassis connection disconnected at the battery
•
Make sure the safety cover is over the positive terminal.
61
Hubs check
• Look at each hub for anything untoward
•
Shake each joint to make sure it is nipped-tight (not torqued at this stage)
•
Inspect he position and potential vulnerability of the flexible brake lines
Fit the wheels
• Fit the wheels
•
Torque the fixing nuts to 65lbft/Final Torque
•
Pump tyres to 20-psi (1.38 Bar or 1.4 Kgf/cm2)
Completion Table
Comments
Start date
Finish date
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
Time
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21
Panelling
TOOLS
62
Spanners/Sockets
Imperial
Metric
None
None
Other Tools
Rivet Gun
Drill and 4/4.1mm drill bit
Caulking gun
MATERIALS
4mm Pop Rivets, mush. head
Inside, panels
Outside panels
Bulkhead panel
Trade or baby-wipes
Silicone
Chassis position Inverted on trestles.
People
Time
Data on completion
1 or 2
14 hrs % Complete 79 %
This may be physically tiring – there are a lot of holes to be
drilled and some breaks may be necessary. You will be far
better using Carbide drills – they last 10 times longer for just
General advice
twice the price. One drill is likely to drill all of the holes before
dulling. Dip you drill-bit in cutting fluid for each hole for
extended life.
General
This is where the car really takes shape. Progress towards the end result is rapid now
with much to show for less effort.
Seat Bulkhead
Locate these panels:
Blanking plate
Seat Bulkhead
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It will be necessary to
bow the bulkhead panel
vertically
forwards
along
the
vertical
centre-line in order to
insert it. Bow it just
enough to flex the
corners into the frame
and then let it spring
back
into
position.
Clamp it in position
ensuring that there is
just enough space either side of the
transmission tunnel to fit the tunnel sidings.
Drill the 4/4.1mm holes, again locating the
corners first and inserting rivets as locating
dowels. Insert rivets as you go to hold it
secure and to ensure each hole is properly
drilled. When all are drilled remove the
locating rivets, pull the panel forward or out
and apply Silicone sealant to the crossmember faces.
Push the panel back and insert the corner
rivets first. Apply and fasten rivets from the
centre and work outwards ensuring that the
panel is pressed firmly down before forming
the rivets.
Pop-rivets and cutting fluid
The 40mm blanking plugs may now be inserted
in the holes but it may be wise to omit the wishbone access hole until after set-up is
completed and all of the bolts are torqued. Also, now is a good time to fit the blanking
plate over the unused seat-belt holes if the four-point harness has been selected. Use six
to eight rivets and sealant.
Note: the seatbelt holes are deliberately offset.
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Transmission tunnel sides
These are next and must tuck into the seat bulkhead.
64
Place both in position to ensure they both fit then commence fastening one. Ensure that
the seat-belt anchorage are clear and clamp in position while drilling - corners first again.
Remove the panel and apply the silicone. Wipe-off any excess with white spirit and a rag
or a Trade-wipe or baby-wipe. Apply the panel and insert the corner locating rivets but
again set the rivets from the centre outwards. Repeat for the other side.
Figure 4 Panel, Tunnel side and upper
top
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Tunnel Top-Panels
The tunnel top-panels are made up of three parts with mounting holes pre-cut.
First, locate the smallest
panel and place it on to the
tunnel.
Note that the
holes are offset.
Slide the handbrake panel
over the handbrake then
under the small panel.
Place the last panel with
two holes in it onto the
tunnel and slide it under
the handbrake panel.
3 panel tunnel top set
Figure 5 Transmission tunnel Panels top-set
Position the panels and when satisfied, drill through the pre-cut holes into the chassis with
a 4.1mm bit.
Remove the panel with the holes in it
and mark a line between the second and
third mounting-holes. The panel now
needs to be cut along this line. This is
to enable the panel to be fitted around
the wiring loom.
NOTES:
Cut the top panel as shown by the
dotted line (Figure 5), cutting right
through Fixing-hole number three counting from the bottom. This makes
fitting the gear-lever much easier.
It is also possible and perhaps desirable to cut through the centre of the wiring loom
holes. This makes it really easy to fit the loom dash-panel branch.
The LHS hole is not used so that may be taped over with Duct tape or Aluminium tape.
Tape from both sides and bond the faces together through the hole to make a really good
bond.
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It is wise to screw fix the rest of the panels to facilitate future maintenance. Drill clearance
holes for M5 screws and tap the chassis. Alternatively use self-tapping screws.
66
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
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Outside panels
The outside panels are
a virtually identical
process.
67
These panels need to
bow around the chassis
crank so it is wise to put
a sharp bend in the
panel rather than to let
it bow – it will sit better.
Just crease it over a
wooden batten at the
marked location
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Inside Panels
68
These are leather-cloth
covered and depending
on what you still have to
do you might want to
leave these until near
the end of your build to
avoid the risk of being
scratched. Use the black
rivets provided.
Completion Table
Comments
Start date
Finish date
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
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22 Bodywork
TOOLS
Spanners/Sockets
Imperial
Metric
Spanners
Spanners
Sockets
Sockets
Other Tools
G-clamps and quick-clamps
MATERIALS
Fitting kits
Side panels, rear wings, boot
File or grinder
section, nose cone, boot liner
and lid
Vice
Boot locks
Power-file (optional)
Roll-over bar
Drill-set and counternsink bit Front wings and kit
Cone drill
Fuel filler cap and hose
Wet and dry paper
Windscreen and side arms
Overtaking mirrors
Body only on trestles or a wide table initially then when
mounting the body on the car, use on axel stands
People
Time
Data on completion
2
28 hrs % Complete 89 %
This is the longest duration event but covers all of the
General advice bodywork in one chapter – two people are close to essential
here but one person can work alone at a slower pace.
Chassis position
General
Checks
Time spent here performing checks is a good investment. It is easy to correct issues at
his stage and checks at this stage will prevent mistakes being made.
Check for trap-points
Look-over the whole chassis to identify any places that wiring or out of place materials
might become trapped by the body on assembly.
Fuel tank centring
The fuel tank needs to be set dead-centre so that the filler is in exactly the right place.
Ensure that the tank is perfectly placed and that there is no risk of a
wishbone colliding with the tank on full excursion of the suspension. Ensure
the filler neck is dead-centre and take a measurement from the bulkhead
face to the centre of the neck and write it down. This will be your only
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reference to the centre when the body is in-place. Mark a dot with a fine felt-tip pen at
absolute dead-centre of the protective cap on the tank. This will be used for sighting later
on.
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Measure seat-belt fixing centres
Similarly, the positions of the seat-belt fixing bosses need to be located precisely. Measure
from the datum at dead centre of the bulkhead and from the bulkhead face to the centre
of the boss. Take care to be exact, millimetres count here
Roll-bar fixing centres
The standard roll-bar is measures in a similar way. Measure the exact centres of the bar
and measure 65mm from the front of the bulkhead to the mounting plate. Mark the
position on each side for the hole centre as exactly half of the bar fixing centre where it
intersects with the 65mm dimension. Mark a cross on tape or punch a clear centre hole.
This mark will be used when sighting the hole-centre by drilling through the body – the
centre mark will be the best way to correct any small inaccuracy later.
Fuel pipe positions under chassis
Any pipe routed under the chassis at the rear stands a small risk of colliding with the body
rear-panel which tucks under the chassis when fitted. Trial fit the rear panel to look for
any collision point before fitting the body.
Set-up
With the measurements now taken and recorded it is time to set-up for body assembly.
This best performed outside unless you have an abundance of space under cover. The
body is best worked-on at chest height so that it is possible to see over the top and work
underneath the wheel-arches.
The best way to do this is to start on the ground then set-up two trestles with battens set
wide enough to support the
assembled body – circa 1.3m or
wider.
Some help here will be
invaluable because it is so much
easier to have an assistant than to
clamp everything in place. But
even with an assistant, it is
important that once the ideal
position has been achieved that
clamps should be used to hold it
while drilling fixing holes.
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Building the body
Start by working in the ground on a protected flat surface.
Locate a side panel
against the rear panel
and
position
it
carefully such that the
edges align.
Use
clamps
on
the
underside to hold it in
place. Repeat for the
other side.
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Next, present the rear
wings and align all
outside edges until
they are perfectly
aligned and then
repeat on the other
side.
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When everything is in perfect alignment it is best to mount the whole assembly on trestles
to make drilling and bolting easy – this will take two people at least to make lifting risk
free.
Once on the trestles check that
nothing has moved and all of your
clamps are still tight. Clamp it in
position to avoid accidents or
damage.
Make the side panel to boot section
fastening first. Use the 6mm setscrews in the fitting kit with a penny
washer on each side. It will be
necessary to shape some of the
washers where they collide with a
curve. Simply bend-up a lip in a vice as
shown below or file or grind them into a
“D”
Below is a close-up detail of the body to
rear wing fixing method.
Here the view is from the
inside where the RHS panel
meets the rear section. One
bolt only is required into the
vertical joint because the
bolts either side through the
wheel-arch hold this joint
stable. Here, only a bolt to
the right hand side has
been fitted, another will
be fitted to the left in
the lip of the body panel.
Now add more fixings at
about 120-150 mm spacing
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on each wing being very
careful to ensure that
nothing has moved.
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If anything has moved
remove
the
offending
fastenings and ease the
hole a little and re-tighten.
Mounting the body on the chassis
This operation requires two
people.
The lip on the underside of
the rear body-panel will clip
underneath the chassis.
The body is fitted by
clipping the lip under the
rear of the chassis with the
body angles upwards at
about 45 degrees and then
rotating downwards and
then easing it onto the chassis very carefully using still wallpaper scrapers or similar –
several will be required. Tyre levers will also work well and large screwdrivers are possible
but be very careful not to apply too much point pressure or it will flake the gel-coat.
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Figure 6 Fitting the body to the chassis
Clip the return of the rear body
panel under the rear of the
chassis and lower the assembly
as shown above.
Possible pinch point
May need relief
Ease the sides out gently to
here
allow the side returns to pass
down the side of the chassis.
Note that where the notch is
cut around the Dash-hoop, it
may be tight and some careful
manipulation might be required
- do not force it past. If it will
not pass consider removing the
body and relieving it a little or try moving the rear return a little and trying again.
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Clip the top-rails on all the
way along the side of the
chassis and where or if
possible, under the chassis as
well – do not use excessive
force.
It is likely that one side of the
wheel-arch-Side fitting will
clip directly on the chassis
without too much easement
but the other side will then
need careful manipulation to
ease it on as shown. Use
thick
bladed
wallpaper
scrapers or less desirably
screwdrivers or tyre levers to
assist this. Be very careful
not to add too much pointforce to the leverage point or
the gel-coat may fracture.
Figure 7 Body fitting
technique
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These two photos show the body
correctly positioned.
At the stage the body should be
fully clipped-on but don’t
attempt to finally fasten it yet
until the scuttle and nose-cone
are fully aligned.
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Figure 8 Body positioning
Position adjustment fore & aft
Variable gap
Next, place the scuttle on the locating blocks then locate the nose cone also on its locating
blocks.
IMPORTANT: The point where the underside front edge of the nose cone meets the hinge
will be the datum point for the whole body assembly. The nose-cone locates the side
panels and thus the scuttle sitting on top of that. Spend plenty of time making all of the
fits perfect before making any fixings.
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Nosecone fitting
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Support here
to prevent
pivoting
Datum = hinge point
Figure 9 Nosecone trial positioning
In Figure 10 Nosecone hinge location, (below), it shows the positioning and orientation
of nosecone.
Wriggle the scuttle to make sure it is settled on its locating blocks. Insert packing pieces
as shown in Figure 9 so that there is a level spacing gap along the length of the nosecone
at 2-3mm evenely from front to rear. Trying to fit the nosecone too tightly may cause it
to spring or distort.
There are 3 options for the nosecone hinge. The standard
item is shown last.
The hinge could be fitted as shown in the break-back (270degree opening) position such that the butt protrudes
outwards and the hinge wings fit close to the chassis member
and to the nosecone face. Open the hinge by 270 degrees
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NOTE: If it is intended to apply any
finishes inside the nose, now is the
time to do it – before fitting.
Figure 10 Nosecone hinge location
The next part is not easy and requires
some care to get it right.
This technique might not work depending
on the body position – the screw fixing
shown may not fit into the crotch of the
nose cone as illustrated. The kit cannot
cover all of the permutations so it may be
necessary to purchase some custom
fixings here. Use 3.5-4.0mm countersunk
set screws with nyloc nuts and spreader
washers for the best result. The spreader
washers may be substituted by a metal
strip or angle to improve rigidity.
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If the nose cone fits higher, the hinge dimension will not be enough and the screw position
will be impossible.
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If this is the case, the hinge must be fitted in the conventional mode but it will be harder
to fix.
The hinge may be fitted to the
nosecone by screws as shown
below (see Figure 11 & Figure 12)
but then it necessary to fit the
nosecone stood vertically to open
it enough to drill the holes into the
chassis rail. Ensure that you predrill the hinge before mounting it
on the nosecone or it will be a
very tough job in-situ.
When the nosecone is correctly
fitted there will be 5mm gap from
the chassis in two directions.
Use Velcro strip on the top of the
chassis to provide a buffer against
contact.
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Figure 11 Alternative nosecone
hinge arrangement
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Pop Rivets
PAD
Here the nosecone is rotated right over
with the chassis raised on high axel
stands to allow the full movement. If
fitted, it is best to remove the radiator for
this method. The chassis fitting should be
pop-rivets but the nosecone should be
screwed. The holes can then be slotted to
gain the best final position.
Further alternatives – a bigger hinge but
still used in break-back (270 degree)
position
Figure 12 Alternative
(larger) nosecone hinge
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Fitting the standard Tee hinge
As standard, a T hinge is provided and the butt is
mounted under the front chassis rail and the tail
under the inclined nose cone. This make a very
strong hinge and offers versatility in its fitting.
It is likely that the nosecone will not align with the lower edge of the chassis rail exactly
so it will be necessary to crank the hinge to suit. Use penny washers on the underside
and fix with screws to make it easy to remove.
This is how a cranked-hinge fits. When complete
is it invisible because it is so close to the ground
Figure 13 Nosecone Tee hinge standard method
Checking body alignment
Now that the nosecone is fitted it will align the whole body. Close the nosecone and
press-down to ensure it goes fully home on the locating blocks. If not, wriggle the body
until it does. Now spend some time truing-up the body parts until from every angle it
looks perfect.
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Check that:
The nosecone and sides align from front to rear
The horizontal gap is even front to rear
The gap between the rear body section and the rear bulkhead is even left to right
Viewed from the front the sidings are vertical and symmetrical
The locating blocks go fully home – if not fettle-off any moulding imperfections until it
does.
Fixing the body part 1
Lift the nosecone and check that nothing has moved from its intended position. Drill a
4mm hole into the side panel top edge ensuring that it passes into the centre of the
chassis rail. Use a large Pop-rivet and insert a fastening in the rear of the panel near to
the scuttle and the same for the other side and crush it. Check the alignment again and
then repeat for the other side. Close the look and inspect again. If anything is slightly
out of line it is possible to drill-out the pop-rivet and slot the hole in the fibreglass and
then try again.
Best to get it right now than to repeat this with multiple rivets!
Fixing the scuttle
If the steering column relief has not been
created it must be performed now
The scuttle may need further relieving
around the Dash-rail as shown below
such that the return fits snugly.
Lift-off the scuttle and mark the fixing
holes with masking tape and a pen on the
inside of the chassis rails. Replace the
scuttle and transfer the location marks
onto the scuttle inside returns and measure across the centre mark.
Remove the scuttle again and drill oversize holes for 6mm set-screws 8mm gives plenty
of tolerance (the mounting blocks set the location). Trial fit and bolt-down. Insert the
set-screws and washers and bolt-down evenly. Check alignment again and check the
closure of the nosecone by pressing down on top. If it looks okay, remove it and then
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Silicone around the entire under-edge – this is your protection against water ingress if it
rains so be thorough.
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It is wise to run the set-screws in by hand
initially to check that there is no problem with
the threaded insert. If it binds then it can spin
and leave a set-screw stuck half way in. If it
binds or spins remove the screw and use the
setting tool to tighten it a little more.
Fixing the rear body
The rear body is supported
using this mounting bracket.
Below is the bracket in use but
slightly modified to fix on just
the centre two spars. Use pop
rivets on the spars but use se9tscrews with spreader washers to
the body panel) to aid easy removal (if need be) in future, while preserving the
reference position.
Figure 14 Rear body panel mounting bracket fixing
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Support the body gently to take away any sag from its self-weight and measure an even
distance to the floor and from the chassis rail (because the suspension may not be fully
level at this point to the chassis is the best reference).
The rear may also be fixed using additional brackets on the outer rails for more stability.
Fixing the body part 2
The body may be fully fixed now.
NOTE: No fixings are made in the top returns of the side panels where the elbow pads fit
to the left and right of the driver. The inner lining panels, when fitted later, will make the
fixings in the inside of the chassis rails.
Check once again that everything looks true then proceed to fix using countersunk or
large-head pop rivets to the top rail working backwards from the front rivet at equal
centres, not greater than 230mm. Repeat for the other side. Then do the same for the
underside but also go back along the full length of the underside to the rear arch. The
body is now fixed. The preferred method is to use countersunk rivet on the upper fixings
and large-head rivets on lower, underside fixings.
Fitting the spats and headlamp bracket
The spats provide
a decorative and
practical edge to
the front wheelapertures
and
make a concealed
mounting for the
headlight.
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Start by taping the body
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Finished appearance
Headlamp brackets
(Underside)
Mark around the desired position
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Offer-up the spat and find the best
position. Mark the location and datum
points when you are satisfied.
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Hold the headlight
bracket in-place underneath the spat and
ensure that the headlamp mounting hole
will sit in the centre of the spat.
When satisfied, mark the exact position.
Some fettling to make it it may be
necessary.
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A concealed countersunk screw may be
fitted in the underside return where it cannot be
seen or you might choose to use a large head poprivet.
.
The easiest way to shape the spat is to
use a powerfile if you can afford or
borrow one – it is fast and controllable.
Use 80-120 grit so that it will not clog.
Otherwise use a sharp file and coarse
carborundum paper but be certain to
mask the front in case of any accidental
slips. The other alternative is a Dremell
Multi tool.
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A couple of pop-rivets may be used on the rear
of the spat. Make sure to fit spreader washers
on the inside to avoid stress cracking later in
life. Or use peel rivets which will not stress the
GRP.
The spat is best fitted to the body using FatHead fasteners and then fibreglassing them
onto the rear.
Mark the position of the fastener on the back
of the spat and then contour it to fit the profile
and temporarily bond it using super-glue or
mastic adhesive. If it is the later ensure it is
completely bonded before covering it (4-12
hrs)
Next, fibreglass over the head
and keep the thread masked and
thus clean.
Wait 2-4 hours before fixing to be
sure it is set. Keep it in a warm
place to set faster.
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Carefully present it to the body with the tips
of the threads paint marked, to transfer their
position (or measure the positions) and drill
over-size holes. Oversize does not matter
because they will never be seen again. Use
large spreader washers on the inside.
Temporarily fix the spat and make any
adjustments that are necessary.
When
satisfied fit the headlamp bracket. Make sure
it is tight against the body and fit two screws
from below (washers on the inside) and the
set screw from the outside with a penny
washer behind. The bracket or the spat may
need a little fettling to get the fit just right.
The aim is to get the headlamp hole right in
the centre. The drill a centre hole for the
connecting cable to pass through.
Repeat the process for the other side.
An offset like this will prevent
the headlamp stem fitting
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Indicator pods
Tape and mark the indicator pods as shown, 130mm down from the body crease-line and
then 130mm back from the front edge of the nose.
Drill the holes in the body as shown to match the pitch of the indicator stalk fixings and
make a larger hole for the cable exit.
130mm
130mm
Then mount the indicator pod. It is wise to fit
some sort of spreader plate or at least penny
washers behind to make the indicator as stable
as possible.
Fit the bulb and then mount the lens. Repeat for
the other side.
Simplified – see photos
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Fitting the bonnet latches
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The bonnet latch is a simple over-centre latch that will
apply considerable down-force to hold the bonnet
closed. One is fitted on each side about 50mm from
the bottom-rear corner of the nose cone.
Tape the body so that it may be marked.
The picture below shows the final position of the latch.
The best way to fit this is to fit the hook (upper) part
first. Use two pop-rivets as shown but be sure to use
spreader washers on the back or the rivets will cause
stress cracking of the gel-coat later.
Use an assistant to press-down on the bonnet to
achieve the closed position of the latch. Present the
latch in its locked position and mark the exact centres
for drilling. Drill the holes, remove the tape and then
mount using two more pop-rivets and washers. Trial
the latch to approve its operation. If it looks okay
move to the other side and repeat the process with the
first latch still locked.
On completion check that the shut line is even and that the nose closes properly
Windscreen fitting
Two people are required for this section.
Do not fit the screen until the scuttle is finally positioned and secured!
Locate the windscreen side-arms, the fitting kit and the screen. Fit the windscreen into
the side-arms and note that there a tiny Allen key grub-screws for securing the glass. Fit
one side-arm at a time and nip-up the grub screws GENTLY but securely. Be careful when
handling the unit to hold the glass and the frames.
Now for some of woodwork. Using 50x25mm batten make up a positioning jig as
illustrated below. This will maintain the correct position while making the fixings.
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Gap to match
windscreen
frame thickness
Please use the measurements above as a
guideline to positioning. The position can be
clarified by using a sidescreen, using its rear
fitment around the arch as a secondary check
for angle and position.
Top corner of
rear-body
overlap on seat
bulkhead
Figure 15 Jigging the windscreen position
This is a simpler jig in use
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If using the optional heated windscreen it is
necessary to drill small holes in the scuttle to
allow the connecting wires to pass-through.
Heater wire
Mount the wing mirrors on the screen pillars – two separate fixing will be required.
The screen may be placed in the
scuttle groove and the top rested
against the locating jig so that the
fixing screws may drilled and fastened.
Another will be fitted on the out side of
the boss facing away from the
passenger compartment,.
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When both are fixed, a generous bead of Silicone may be applied between the screenbase and the scuttle on the outside face of the screen. Don’t be too concerned about
finish because these are is covered by the screen fillet.
To fit the fillet, the centre-hole is first drilled and then a cone drill used to ream-out the
centre to the correct size.
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SILICONE BEAD
Try the fillet frequently to adjust the fit.
The ends of the fillet tuck under the
screen pillar inside edges.
When satisfied that all looks okay, reapply the wiper spindle ferrules and
tighten down. If okay, remove and then
apply Silicone sealant at the top and
bottom edges sparingly but without
gaps then press in place, tighten the
ferrules again and wipe off excess silicone with a white spirit soaked clean rag.
TIP: Use needle-nose
pliers or circlip pliers to
tighten the wiper bosses
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Retaining grub-screws
Mirror retaining screw
The screen fillet, finished
appearance with the wipers
assembled – they park on the
driver’s side
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Here is the finished look with
the optional side-screens
fitted
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Nosecone grille
The grille mesh is fixed using four
cable-ties. Drill a clearance hole for
the smallest cable-tie near the corners
about 3mm in from the edge being
very careful to avoid a break-out. Ask
an assistant to help you position the
grille while making the fastenings. It
is best to make the top fixings first.
Note: that the inside of the nosecone
has been sprayed black to improve
the appearance.
Secure with 4 cable ties
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Standard roll-over bar fitting
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This section describes the standard
roll-over bar fitting. If fitting the RAC
racing roll-bar please seek factory
advice. The racing bar will require the
rear diagonal to pass through the boot
liner and is a significantly larger task.
Locate the roll-bar and measure the
exact centres. Measure twice to be
certain. Measure the exact diameter of
the tube – nominally 50mm. Locate or
source a hole-saw for cutting the hole.
Mark the body on tape and measure
twice for accuracy.
Drill a small pilot hole at the centre
points 50mm back from the seat-back
return front edge (2.5-3.5mm).
Measure the centres again and lay the
bar against the centres to be certain they are right. If the holes centres are less than
perfect, then ease the hole to the correct position in the fibreglass then use a larger drill
to re-centre the hole in the steel plate below. When certain that the centre is right, drill
with a drill large enough to match the centre bit of the hole-saw.
Apply plenty of masking tape around where the hole will be cut in case of any momentary
contact with the body. Select a slow speed on the drill and lower the hole saw slowly to
the body ensuring that the tip of the pilot drill passes through the hole in the bracket
below. Contact lightly then more firmly as it engages. Drill constantly but firmly until the
hole cutter exits on the other side and then remove the cut-out. Repeat for the other
side.
Before attempting to mount the bar, measure from inside to inside of the holes and then
check against the roll-over bar. Do the same for outside to outside. If it looks like a fit
then present the bar and gently push it into the openings – some minor fettling is likely.
Remove the bar and sand inside the holes to remove all burrs and fibres and check the
fitagain. When the bar is an easy fit the move to fixings. Don’t force anything of gel-coat
may fracture or powder coating might flake.
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Drill out the pilot hole in the metal bracket progressively up to 12.5mm (1/2 inch) to clear
the 12mm fixing bolt. It is likely your cordless drill will not be powerful enough and
perhaps too fast for the larger drills. Use a mains drill on its lowest speed setting if you
can. Cutting fluid or a little oil will aid the drilling.
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Insert the bolts from below through a washer and apply a smear of Copper-slip to the
thread. Tighten the bolts and if you can gain access with a torque wrench then tighten
to 25lbft or 33Nm.
Seatbelt mounting and Fuel filler cap mounting
Preparation
Find the fuel filler cap (fitting kit enclosed), the seatbelt eyelet bolts, the seat-belt spacers
and the measurements you took previously.
Tape-over the surface of the body where drilling is intended and make sure the whole
cutting area around the fuel filler cap is masked. It is also wise to cover the rear of the
panel with a cloth as a way to protect the surface and somewhere to rest tools.
Fuel filler-cap installation pt1
Tape around the hole location for marking and protection. Start with measuring the fuelfiller cap position. This is the easiest operation, it has the greatest possible tolerance and
it will provide another window to below the body when the hole is bored. It is best to use
a circular hole saw and to start with a small pilot hole and when correctly centred then
open it out to match the pilot drill of the hole saw.
Measure carefully where the centre of the fuel filler inlet should be.
Sight through the boot opening to be sure there is no gross error.
Use a small drill of 3-4mm to drill the first hole. Look through the
hole at the fuel tank protection cap below (torch illumination may
be required from above or below. The dot at the centre you made
earlier should be clearly visible and directly below. If not, shift the
centre until it is and then drill to match the pilot drill size of the hole
saw of at diameter to clear the filler stem (this is variable by design type). Now use the
hole saw in your drill at the slowest possible speed ensuring that the pilot does not
drill the protective cap below. Vacuum-clean the dust before complete penetration
and place a cloth below to catch any dust falling through – it must not be allowed to fall
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into the tank. When the hole is cut through, sandpaper the inside edge to remove any
sharps and roughness. Then clean thoroughly – a damp cloth is good for the final residue.
If you do not have a hole saw then a ring of holes may be drilled and filed-out but still be
sure to find the true-centre in the same way as above.
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Assembly of the filler is easy but leave this until after the seatbelt eyebolts are fitted.
Seatbelt eyebolts
Start with the outside left or right hole. Similar to finding the fuel filler centre-hole but
with more precision, measure precisely and measure again to be certain. Then drill a tiny
centre hole. If the measurement is accurate this should enter into the centre of the boss
– if metal is struck it is clearly off-centre. Shine a light from above and/or below to view
the result. It is also possible to hand-hold a drill-bit and probe through to feel the inside
edges of the boss and wiggle-test for centring. If the hole is off-centre then move it
before using a large centre drill. Repeat this for
the opposite side boss then draw a line between
them, such that the other two must lay on that
centre line. Repeat the process for the centre
pair.
A hole saw that matches the boss diameter will
be needed. Now bore the four holes to a
clearance size for the bosses. Smooth the inside
of the holes and clean-up. Try the bosses in the
holes – don’t force them they should be an easy fit.
Proving the centre position
The drawing below demonstrates how this is performed. The design of the stand-off
bushes may change so determine the solution from the parts supplied. If plain bushes
are supplied, a decorative finsih to the hole may be achieved
by splitting a rubber grommet with the same size centre hole
as the bus. This will neatly cover any ragged or fractured
edge.
Centre-hole to match bush
Alternatively make the hole size
undersize and use a drum-sander
mini bobbin in a drill and open it out
progressively by sanding.
Cut as shown to make two
Finishing grommets
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241mm
220mm
Eyebolt
Fuel hose
241mm
Filler cap
Gasket
Split fitting ring
Spacer
Jubilee clips
Use a little thread lock on the eye-bolts and wind them
in until they are tight – with the eye facing across the
car. If you cannot achieve that then it may be necessary
to shim underneath to reduce by a half-turn or just file
or grind 0.5mm off the underside of the stand-off boss
face (make sure it is level).
Fuel filler-cap pt2
Next, the fuel filler cap assembly. Remove the tank protector cap. Take the fuel hose and
mark it to length allowing for the fitting collar below the cap. There is enough supplied
pipe to try again if it is the wrong length.
Mark the cutting position. Wind tape around the
diameter to give a guide for cutting. A fine hacksaw
is best but it will deviate easily so watch the tape
edge for guidance. Remove all of the dust. Present
it to the tank to check its length.
Alternatively use a fine toothed tennon saw.
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If okay, pass it through the opening and through a jubilee clip position so that the clip
may be tightened from the boot opening- then drop another clip through the opening.
102
Trial fit the cap to check the length. If it will fit snugly, remove it and insert the split
fixing-ring – it will pass through a hole smaller than its own outer diameter with
manipulation. Put a rag in the coupling pipe or cover the tank opening with film. Reapply the cap and mark the fixing hole
centres with a fine marker and remove it for
drilling. Drill the fixing holes with a clearance
drill, clean up and the remove the film/rag.
Put the gasket in place and align with the
fixing holes. Insert the first fixing screw into
a fixing either side of the split in the
coupling-ring then the next into the other
side of the spilt and then one diametrically
opposite. The others will then be easy.
Store the tiny keys safely!
Note: on later models the retaining wire is inside the cover. IVA required.
Boot-box fitting
The boot-box is easy to fit and just drops in from above the rear panel. It is likely that a
little fettling is required in order for it to fit perfectly. Four fixings will suffice near the top
and bottom corners - avoiding where the latches might strike at the bottom (read-on)
This is the box viewed from the
underside of the body – preassembly. Two countersunk screw
fixings could be inserted where
arrowed and the same near the
rear.
Moreover, use rivserts if possible
through return edge for easy
removal.
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Boot-lid fitting
Tape the lid as shown and mark the centres of the lock fixings. The locks will need some
preparation. Read through completely before commencing.
103
Contra-rotation locking action
Remove the nut on the bottom of the lock-tang and fold the clenched tang flat and then
shape into a bullet tip as shown below.
The tang may be positioned on the axle in different
positions – the style may vary. Experiment until you
find the position that will operate and lock-shut. The
other lock has to be set to be the other hand. One will
lock clockwise and the other anti-clockwise.
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Ensure that the hole positions you have marked will allow (a) enough space for the lockbody to clear the liner when it descends (b) that the barrel is close enough for the rotated
tang to reach through the boot liner body.
104
Bore the lock body holes starting with a small pilot drill then a pilot large enough to
accommodate the start of a stepped cone drill. Bore to the clearance diameter for the
lock body. A continuous taper cone drill is also possible but be very careful not to drill too
large. Trial fit the lock and check its operation when loosely tightened. If okay, remove
it and do the same for the other side.
Next a slot will be cut into the boot liner below where the lip sits under the boot-liner
flange e.g. two thicknesses down from the surface of the liner flange. Fit the two locks
and check their action then tighten fully. Mark the expected striking position of the tang
with tape. Apply paint or a marker fluid to the tang edge, position the boot lid close and
operate the latch until it strikes the take. Lift out and make sure there is a clear mark.
This amounts to the entry point into the slot and it will need to be widened to allow for
the full stroke of the tang until it achieves the locking position.
The slot may be cut with the boot-liner removed. Either use a small slitting saw with a
mini drill or drill a line of holes and then break then through with a sharp knife. File the
slot smooth on the inside using a fine file.
The slot needs to be smooth and flat or the tang will jam badly.
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OPTION 1
Position the lock so that nearly all of its rotation is used-up before contacting the liner. If
using the eyebrow technique as shown above, it can then lock under the eyebrow without
having to penetrate the body at all. This technique is easier and far quicker but takes
longer to experiment with first of all.
TIP 1
When all is working well it is wise to fix the
lock barrel. Use Thread lock on the nut and
then tack the nut to the lid with a small spot
of super glue or ring it with Silicone.
TIP 2
It is too easy to flake the gel-coat where the
hinge tangs enter the locating holes. Use a
countersink rose-bit to put a good chamfer
on the holes and it will not flake after that.
Cycle-wing fitting
Fit the wheels and remove the car form the axel stands.
Bolt on the.wing support arms with two
fixings each -note that they are handed and
only fix one way round.
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Wing support arms:
Fix the support arms as
shown via three fixings.
106
The cycle wings will be
either the standard
colour matched items or
the lighter Carbon-fibre
effect type. The latter
are lighter but more
flexible so they need a
little more care.
Remember to fit the side repeater indicator.
Make a small hole in the wing to pass the
wire through and remove the backing tape
on the indicator to bond it on. Secure the
wire on the inside of the wing using duct
tape (pressed well down) or tack with super
glue and when set, run a bead of silicone
over the top. (essential super-glue is water
sensitive)
Start with a trial-fit on each side. Rest the
wing on the brackets and examine the
appearance. Make sure the wing is wide
enough for the chosen tyre and that it is
centred. Set to the position that most suits
but make sure that the front tip of the wing
does not sit higher than 150mm above the
centre-line of the wheel (IVA requirement). The standard fitting method uses screw
fixings through the top surface and into the flat blade of the support arm but it is also
possible to make invisible fixings – see the Option below.
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Measure on the bracket where the centre of the cycle wing would occur and then transfer
that to a mark on masking tape on the bracket. This will allow equidistant marks to be
made for the fixing holes. Next, make absolutely sure that the brackets are parallel to
each other and if not bend them slightly. Do the same for the other side and then jack
up the car and remove the front wheels. Centre-punch where the drilled holes are
required and drill using a pilot drill and then open out to 5.5mm. Tape under the cycle
wing for marking.
Re-apply the cycle wing and determine
exactly where it was originally positioned and
then mark through the holes to locate the
drilling position. Measure very carefully to
determine that the holes are correctly
pitched, centred and parallel. Now drill one
pair only and semi-firmly fix to the bracket.
This allows the other pair to be drilled
through from the underside of the wing in
the perfect position. If not sure, don’t drill
and refit the wheel to check the position and then re-try.
When seating the wing, it should be buffered compliantly from the bracket. One way is
to apply a thick smear of Silicone and let it set. This buffering reduces the risk of wing
surface crazing around the fixings over time.
If drilling with the wheel on – drill the bracket - not the tyre!
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108
Invisible fixings: Invisible fixings can be made to the
underside of the fibreglass wing by using big-head
fasteners fibreglassed onto the
underside.
The holes are drilled into the
brackets and the big-head fasteners
pushed through from the top –
thread downwards towars the tyre.
Tape under the cycle-wing, loose fit the wheel and position
the wing where it is required. Mark the outline accurately.
Carefully remove the wheel to avoid wing displacement
and then mark around the fasteners in pencil or fine
marker on the underside. Remove the wing and mount it
upside down on a padded surface.
View from the underside
of the wing
Use super-glue to bond the fasteners in their required position. It is now possible to
fibreglass them into position. Wait 24 hours before attempting to re-fit. The studs wil
need to be cut to length such that only minimal length protrudes and flat nuts are used
on the underside.
If measurements go slightly wrong, no correction is possible on the wings but it is possible
to slots the fixings in the brackets with a rat-tail file. Paint or grease any bared steel to
prevent rusting.
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Note: Because the big-head
fasteners are fitted radial to the
tyre, one set of holes may need
to be slotted/oversize to pass
the second set of the threads
though at an angle to their final
resting position but flexing the
arms or the wing may achieve
the result.
109
These holes may need
to be slotted
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Keep short to avoid
tyre contact
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Rear wing protector spats
110
The rear wing protectors are an optional
extra on the basic kit and are
recommended to protect the wing. They
are very simple to fit
using peel rivets with
the action shown
here. They may be
identified by the
conical anvil at
the foot. Black
rivets are supplied
for black wings.
The wing shown is the carbon-fibre look-alike wing.
Clip the protector on the wing and adjust
it for position, looking carefully at the
controur changes. When satisfied, gently
clamp it with pads to ensure it cannot
move during drilling – duct tape may also
help to hold it still. The peel rivets are
3.5mm so use the right drill.
Apply one rivet and set it. Check the
position before setting the others. Work
progressively away from the first to avoid
a riveted-in bulge. See the arrows for the
recommended positions.
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Zetec Special Edition Exhaust Hole Template
The measurements are taken from the front upper chassis rail back for fore and aft
positioning, then down from the rail to give start point for hole.
Please take care and measure correctly and recheck before cutting.
555mm
205mm
130mm
115mm
Note; Make sure that the silencer moutning boss on the chassis has been transferred
through to the main body side section once the body is in it’s correctly fitted position.
An easy way to do this is to use a drill through the centre of the boss from the inside,
drilling carefully through to the outside of the body. Once you have this position the rear
silencer mounting can be fitted ( this mounting will vary dendant on specification of
silencer).
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112
Completion Table
Comments
Start date
Finish date
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Time
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23 Dash-panel & Steering Wheel Fitting
TOOLS
Spanners/Sockets
Imperial
Metric
Spanners Spanners
Sockets
Sockets
Chassis position
Data on
completion
General advice
Other Tools
7mm drill bit & cordless drill
Rivesert tool
Electrical tools
People
1
Time
MATERIALS
Dash fitting kit (electrical)
Dash fitting kit - fixings
Steering wheel and crash-pad
10 hrs
%
Complete
92 %
Be especially caeful when drilling the Rivsert holes near to the
edge of the scuttle risk of gel-coat flaking.
Calibrating the speedometer
The speedometer is already calibrated for 15 inch wheels with R55 profile tyres at 20
psi. If no change has been made to that specification, the speedometer is ready for
operation. If there are changes consult the instruction with you speedo in order to reset
it. It is important to determine the “rolling radius” of your wheel exactly in order to set
the speedometer. The rolling radius is less than the actual diameter of the tyre because
the tyre compresses when it is under load.
So set the tyre to the correct pressure and measure exactly from the centre of the wheel to the ground. The rolling circumference will be (Pi) 3.142 x the rolling radius
squared
So if the rolling radius is 235mm the distance covered in one revolution of the wheel is:
(235 x 2) x 3.142 = 1477mm or 1.477 metres. In one revolution of the wheel the car
will cover 1.477metres in other words.
We need to convert that to yards for miles per hour so multiply the metric by 1.0939 =
1.61569 yards per revolution.
As there are 1760 yards per mile, that computes to 1760 divided by 1.61569 =
revolutions per mile = 1,089 revolutions per mile.
Make your own calculation base on your measurements – this is only to demonstrate the
basic method. Your speedometer will ask you to set the wheel revolutions per mile and
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the number of bolt-heads that it is sensing (four). You will then need to enter the
corresponding number into the speedometer from a calculation.
Securing the loom for the Dashboard
114
The loom is secured to the Dashboard hoop and the tails are then long enough to reach
forward to the Dashboard stood in front of the hoop/scuttle but extender wires are
supplied to make this easier.
NOTE: At the time of writing it is intended to make modifications to the loom for longer
tails so the extenders may be omitted in future.
Figure 16 Lashing the Dash loom to the Dash rail
The loom is routed to the left of the car and then doubles back along the rail to the right
so that the Hazard warning switch aligns with the end of the Dash. Tie-in loosely at first
and ensure that the loom is held away from the moving steering shaft. Where the loom
rises from the tunnel is wise to make a big loop laid forwards such that the heater motor
(if fitted) passes under the loop.
It is wise to make a simple jig to hold the Dash in-place for assembly. This can be very
simple and quick. One way is shown below. Place two small spacer-blocks between the
scuttle base and the Dash base either side and stand the Dash off-vertical and leaning
forward to give good access to the back but close enough for the wires to reach. Pass a
lashing cord around the wiper pinions (or windscreen if fitted) and over the top and front
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of the Dash, back up underneath and secure on the Dash rail. Adjust the strap length
until it is in the right position.
115
Figure 17 Dash panel lashed for wiring
If the windscreen is already fitted then lash around the screen instead.
Dashboard panel fitting
It is presumed that the Dashpanel is assembled at this point. If not go to Chapter 15
Dash pre-build. Return here when assembled.
Present the Dash panel to the Scuttle,
locating on the lower side extremes to
look for collisions between the
instruments, indicators and switches.
Mark where they are and then file
them to shape progressively.
This process will be quite protracted
with a hand-file but may be greatly
hastened by using a power file or
Dremell.
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Use only a fine hand-file not a rasp to reduce the risk of flaking or fracture and file oneway from decorative face rearwards. File forwards only – pushing towards the back edge
and lifting off for the return stroke.
116
CAUTIONARY NOTES:
• There will be a lot of dust produced so mask/cover as many surfaces as possible
and drape underneath with dust-sheets.
• Wear a face mask eye shields and stout gloves.
• Fibreglass can pierce like a syringe but it also snaps off under the skin!
• When finished, rub down the edges with coarse grit to remove sharps.
• Don’t wipe your eyes with fibreglass on your hands!
• Wash hands in cold water on completion.
• Vacuum away the dust or you will never be rid of it in the built car
The photograph below shows the scuttle profiled for a Contoured Dash (option) with dial
instruments and also shows a relief for the (optional) heated windscreen push-button on
Two indicator lamps
Speedo and tacho
Heated screen
switch (option)
Figure 18 Scuttle edge profiling for the Dash panel (contoured Dash)
the right. The edge will need to be contoured according to each particular layout so there
is no specific drawing or template for this.
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Fitting with Rivserts
Here is a view of the finished standard Dash panel appearance. The moulded trim supplied
will cover the fixings but it is important to ensure that they are close enough to the upper
edge to be concealed.
IMPORTANT: The trim will appear to have a large overlap but it is fitted with Velcro so
the overlap will be reduced by two thicknesses of the material so be aware that the overlap
may be smaller than the first impression. Screws need to be quite close to the edge of
the Dash and take great care drilling close
to the edge.
Flat Dash illustrated – it is same principle for contoured
Use the 5mm Rivserts supplied (7mm hole) and fitted at about 200mm spacing to suit the
fittings (variable according to options). Clamp the panel in position having marked where
the fixings should be. Clamp the panel in place securely and pilot drill with a drill of circa
2.5mm (not critical) Drill the first hole near to the centre of the panel. As soon as this
first hole is drilled pass a pin, nail or small screwdriver through the hole to ensure that it
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cannot slip. Next drill a pilot near the bottom left and bottom right and again push a pin
through to hold the position. The other holes may now be drilled with confidence, knowing
they will be correctly centred.
118
Separate the panel from the scuttle and separately drill the holes on the scuttle and the
panel. Choose a blunted drill-bit or a masonry drill to open the holes, drilling gently from
the front to avoid fracture or break-out. For the panel, switch to a sharp drill but drill out
in stages from say 3.5mm via 5mm to 6.5mm. The staging is to prevent aggressive
grabbing when drilling through the leather, foam and panel. Drilling into a wooden
backing block is the safest way to do this and to keep control. The Rivserts require an
7mm hole and it best to increase the hole size progressively here too.
ALTERNATIVE: Wood-drills are quicker and safer
because they cut the outside diameter before cutting the
centre. This prevents fractures in fibreglass and they
have a positive centre location spike which prevents
wander. With such drills, the holes may be drilled in one
pass BUT be gentle. When drilling the panel use a
leather punch tool or cut a cross in the fabric with a
sharp craft knife. This will prevent the fabric wrapping
around the drill.
Wiring the Dashboard
Locate the Dashboard wiring kit. Inside there will be enough wires and terminals to wire
any variant of Dashboard.
Colour
White
Brown
White
Black
Green
Black
Green
Blue
Green
Black
Qty
1 off
Function
Oil pressure sensor (Signal)
1 off
Tachometer from ECU (signal wire)
1 off
Fuel level signal
1 off
Water temperature signal
4 off +1
4 off
Ignition on supply
Earth (-ve)
Table 1 Dash, wire decoder
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NOTE: is planned to extend the
tails on the loom in future so this
extender set may not be
necessary.
The scuttle should be fitted for
this stage.
It is wise to build some sort of jig
to hold the Dash in its wiring
position while carrying out this
work to liberate both hands.
Place the bottom corners of the
das at the base of the scuttle with
the corners resting on the chassis sides. It may also help to hold the base about 3-5 cm
away from the base of the scuttle with a block of wood on each side. Fix the Dash such
that it is leaning forward by at least 45 degrees for easy access and lock it in position.
Next if you have not already done so, now is the time to
fit the steering link. Find the Allen key fixing bolts in the
steering kit. Unlock the steering lock and pull the top rod
out a little to allow the bottom link to slip under the splined
end. Push back down until the spine is fully engaged and
slip the bolts in top and bottom – passing through the
groove in the spline. Use a little releasable thread lock on
each thread. Tighten to 20lbft or 27.1Nm.
For safety, fit a protective pad to the end of the steering
column until the steering wheel is fitted.
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Building the Steering Wheel BASIC
IMPORTANT:
120
The steering wheel provided will pass the
IVA test – if the car is presented with a
substitute it might fail for lack of the
regulatory safety features.
Locate the steering wheel, steel wheel
boss and mounting bolts
(1) Place the steering wheel onto its boss
and align the mounting holes
The
boss is a
hollow
basket and a cover clips over it
(2) Remove the nuts and spring washers
from the mounting screws. Place a screw
through each hole going through the
steering wheel first then the mounting
boss
(3) Place a spring washer and a nut onto
each screw then tighten down
(4) Clip-on the crash-pad to finish and
secure firmly with hook and loop Velcro
Completion Table
Comments
Start date
Finish date
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
Time
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24 Interior and trim
TOOLS
Spanners/Sockets
Imperial
Metric
None
Sockets
Spanners
Chassis position
Data on completion
General advice
Other Tools
Cordless drill and drill set
Pop-rivet gun
People
1
Time
MATERIALS
121
4mm Pop Rivets, mush. head
Two foot-well panels
Two floor panels
Silicone sealant
Trade or baby-wipes
Velcro tapes
10
96%
Interior side-panels
If these panels have not been fitted yet, now is the last opportunity. Use the same
technique as an outside panel as performed earlier but this time use the Black Rivets
supplied. Peel type Pop rivets used in areas attaching to GRP. Standard rivets are used
through steel chassis members.
Carpet fitting and trim
Identify the following components
The footwell cross member caps
Driver-side cap is longer
Elbow pads
These are handed
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122
Fit the cross-member caps now. They will just push on and the tails may be bonded down
to hold it in place or better still, fasten the caps at either end with a black pop-rivet and
just tuck the tails under the carpet when fitted. Alternatively, tuck the tails under the
extrusion and tap it home tight and then drill two pop-rivets to hold in place. Any carpet
gap will show aluminium this way – determine your own preference. Fit the elbow pads
last. Next unpack the carpet pieces and identify their locations. Here is some guidance.
(A) Under-seat, Drivers side
Rectangular – wider than Passenger side
(B) Under-seat, Passenger side
Rectangular – narrower than Driver side
(C) Footwell Bottom, Drivers side
Trapeziod – wider than Passenger side
(D) Footwell Bottom, Passenger side
Trapeziod – narrower than Driver’s side
(E) Seat bulkhead
Large rectangle
(F) Passenger footwell, vertical, bulkhead Nearly square
(G) Passenger footwell, vertical, RHS
Nearly square – fits in chassis opening
(H) Transmission tunnel, saddle
Obvious, fits over gearlever and handrake
(I) Driver footwell, vertical, Bulkhead
Small rectangle over pedals
(J) Driver footwell, vertical, LHS
Nearly square – fits in chassis opening
E
A
C
J
G
I
H
D
B
F
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Note that the the gear-lever and handbrake gaiter fit under the carpet because the carpet
has stiched-in sleeves.
Insert the carpet pieces in the following order:
1. Drivers footwell, with the bulkhead piece
inserted via the footwell cover.
2. Passenger footwell
3. Driver and Passenger trapezium pieces
4. Driver and passenger under-seat pieces
5. Rear bulkhead
6. Transmission tunnel
The small vertical pieces should be bonded-in – especially above the pedals – any mastic
adhesive will do – dabs only to allow future removal if required.
The trapezium parts should be Velcro secured at the rear and also on one or both edges
to stop it shifting.
No attachment under the seat - the runners and seat bolts secure that.
Rear bulkhead – use Velcro fastening to stop it slumping. Tape to the carpet– attach the
mating half to it with the keeper tape removed and then push against the rear bulkhead
to transfer the tape to the right position. Separate the tapes carefully and press-down
the tape onto the bulkhead (ultimately use impact adhesive to apply the tape to the rubber
carpet-backing or the adhesive on the tape will fail). Leave the carpet for a day before reattaching to allow the adhesive to bond. If the top edge of the carpet will not push under
the body overhang then it may be dressed with a piece of the rubber U-channel supplied
for a neat edge.
Note: When fitting the transmission tunnel carpet, make sure the the carpet is perforated
where the seat-belt mounting needs to pass through. Make an oversize hole – it will not
show.
Make sure the holes are plenty large enough to accommodate the bolts – there is no merit
in under-doing this because the area will never show when the seat is fitted. Fold the
carpet back where the hole is and pierce through with a gimlet or bradawl such that it
passes into the threaded hole. Next drill the carpet from the fabric side with a cone drill.
Then ream a clean an oversize hole from the underside. Make sure the bolt will pass
through without risk of the fabric wrapping around the thread.
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Seat belt fitting
124
This manual only covers the 4 point harness belts - a factory option but one that almost
everybody chooses. If you wish to fit the intertia reel belts please speak to the factory.
The belt must be positioned so
as to pull correctly across pelvis
in the case of an accident. It will
need to pass the junction of the
seat-back and the seat squab.
Almost certainly this will require
the rear mounting unless it is
required to situate the seat well
forward.
The outboard mounting viewed from cockpit area.
seatbelt anchorage should be the same on both sides.
The
Upper harness mounting points
Please note that special Westfield supplied spacers and harness eyes are required so
that the mounting protrudes through the fibreglass boot box when fitted.
When the sport turbo seat option is fitted it will look like this. If the standard seat is used,
the shoulder harness will pass either side of the seat-back.
The lower picture shows how the lap-belt will route with the buckle to the right, for the
driver and passenger.
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Seat Fitting
125
The seats supplied are adjustable so it is important to fit them so that the full range of
adjustment is achievable. Pull the grab handle at the front of the seat upwards and move
the seat to the rear of the runners.
Note: The runners move separately when unlocked so it is essential to align the ends of
both before marking any fixing holes.
Try the seat in the car with the carpet-in place (to avoid scratching the floor). While it
will be difficult, try running the seat forward (lift handle) to ensure the full range may be
achieved and then set it right back again. If you do not like the range then set the
maximum rearward position now and then remove the seat. Repeat this for the seat on
the passenger side but try to ensure the full range of adjustment is used on this side.
The holes in the floorpan are predrilled to suit the seat runners fitted to the base of the
seat. What you will have to do, if you have carpets fitted, is locate these holes and using
a sharp blade cut holes through the carpet so that the seat may pass through the carpet
and the holes in the floor seat pan.
Now fit the seat. It helps to have the seat centred on its runners It may be necessary to
lift the handle and adjust one runner with respect to the other. Check underneath to
ensure that the threads have passed evenly through the floor panel - wriggle it or sit in
the seat if necessary. Apply a large penny washer (smeared with Silicone for sealing) to
each thread and fasten with an 8mm Nyloc nut. Again a small smear of Silicone on the
base of the thread will ensure a seal from road-water. Go firm on one thread at a time
but do not tighten fully until all are firm. It is wise to have an assistant sit in the seat at
this point to make sure the bolts are forced right down before final tightening. A loose
seat belt fastening is an IVA fail.
Note: if the centres don’t quite work then just drill the holes out to 9 - 9.5mm. It does
not matter because the penny washers spread the load.
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Dash trim fitting
126
The dash trim is fitted using hook and loop Velcro. Apply loop to the scuttle, immediately
behind the rear edge of the dash panel but apply it in about 200mm lengths with small
gaps - this does two things. It prevents buckling on cold days and also deals with the
curvature of the scuttle better. On the finishing eyebrow do the same (contour dash).
Don’t be concerned about where the gaps are and if they align – as long as they are small
there will be plenty of bond. Wait 24 hours before applying the trim to allow the adhesive
to cure. Apply the trim from the passenger side touching down on the side edge and
wrap it progressively down onto the scuttle checking the fit on the instrument binnacle as
you go (contour dash).
If successful, it should touch down on the side panel on the other side. If not, carefully
remove and try again until satisfied.
Mirror fitting
Clean the upper centre of the windscreen with alcohol or thinners and dry with a clean
paper towel.
Remove the keeper tape on the mirror mounts and press it into position.
If the temperature is very low, warm the screen with a hairdryer for a minute to improve
the grab of the tape.
Elbow pad fitting
The elbow pads are fitted in the same way as the dash-trim with Velcro hook and loop.
The tail shown fits inside the panel facing forwards.
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
FW SPECIAL
Sidescreen fitting (Option)
Two people are required for this. The sidescreens will be temporarily fitted here and
removed for the IVA test.
Mark the hinge holes through onto the screen steel inner frame. These frames are
predrilled in the frame but covered by the vinyl covering. Use the mushroom head stainless
steel Allen-head screws and the safety dome nuts for the inside fastenings. Repeat for
the other side and then remove the screens.
Fix the securing strap as shown below – all of the parts are in the fitting kit.
Underscuttle Panels
The cover plate provides impact protection for knees, covering the edge of the scuttle.
Secure with hook and loop Velcro or use a couple of self-tapping screws – be certain that
it is secure in order to pass the IVA test.
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
127
FW SPECIAL
128
Completion Table
Comments
Start date
Finish date
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
Time
FW SPECIAL
25 Set-up
TOOLS
Spanners/Sockets
Imperial
Metric
Spanners Spanners
Sockets
Sockets
Chassis position
Data on completion
Other Tools
Suspension Alignment tools
Laptop
Serial lead to USB converter
MATERIALS
129
ECU set-up manual
Time
% Complete 98%
1
8
Timings depend entirely on skill levels in this area and whether
General advice
professional help is sought.
People
Set-up general
Westfield Sportscars offers a service for a modest fee to set-up the vehicles and it is
typically combined with a pre-IVA check-up. This is specialist work and beyond most
amateur builders to perform due to the special equipment. Most builders opt to use the
service so this following guide does not attempt depth or detail.
Engine set-up
The engine is managed by the ECU and is “flashed” at the factory with the correct basic
program. This means your engine will start and run. If throttle bodies are fitted then
balancing and set will be required
Final set-up is normally performed when the engine is nominally run-in at circa 1,000
miles. The base set-up should suffice for emission testing during the IVA.
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
FW SPECIAL
130
Initial start-up engine settings
Before allowing the engine to start, it is wise to allow the ECU to sense the engine position
for the first time. Remove the spark plug leads and the sparkplugs (14mm rubber lined
plug-socket on a long reach driver). Clearly, the engine cannot start when the ignition
key is turned but it will allow two things: (a) check that the oil pressure pops up smartly
to 90psi (desist if it does not do so in 3 seconds!) (b) the ECU will find the engine position
from a notch in the crackshaft position sensor (toothed wheel). If you do not do this the
engine may run very rough for tens of seconds until the ECU establishes the firing position.
This is not kind to the new engine and may result on very rough running and backfires so
it is best to run this little routine first.
If you wish to tune for power, alternative set-ups or economy then choose a rolling road
set-up centre for OMEX to do this for you unless you have advanced set-up skills and a
rolling road available. The information is in the manual supplied but it is not readable to
an amateur builder. You will need to go to the tuner with the OMEX manual, the serial
connecting lead, a serial lead to USB adapter that you have verified works and the set-up
disk.
Suspension set-up
The suspension set-up is not easy for a anybody who is inexperienced and does not have
the special tools. It is recommended that the set-up service offered by Westfield Sportcars
is used. This can be combined with your pre-IVA check for peace of mind.
If you wish to set-up yourself and you have the set-up tools please refer to
Annexe 3 Specifications.
Completion Table
Comments
Start date
Finish date
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
Time
FW SPECIAL
26 Pre-IVA
TOOLS
Spanners/Sockets
Other Tools
Imperial Metric Notepad
None
None
Chassis position
Data on
completion
People
1
Time
MATERIALS
131
IVA compliance kit
Champagne!
4 hrs
% Complete
100 %
Well this is it – the final chapter and just IVA and registration to
General advice go before you take to the road. Enjoy the lifestyle and
thanks for sharing the Westy Experience!
Adding safety protection
A large kit of IVA compliance components is provided – more than is necessary. Reading
the IVA compliance manual is advised but not essential if this construction manual has
been followed without any modifications or deviations. The car is designed to comply
with the IVA.
Do not fit any roof fittings or side-screens for the IVA.
The critical areas for collision protection for pedestrians are in the frontal area – especially
around the suspension and cycle wings and on top of the nosecone and around the screen.
In the passenger compartment there are critical areas where injury is avoided or reduced
by the use of large radii and protecting any potentially sharp edges.
In side the car a test Hemisphere is used that simulates a knee and where it might contact
in an accident. All of the contact points have to be blunt. Behind the steering wheel is
exempt because it cannot be contacted but the steering wheel needs to comply with its
own rules and the crash-pad has to be in-place.
So positioning switches and the like
must be in the safe zone or must be radiused if in a crital area.
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
FW SPECIAL
If standard parts have been used, the car is well built and all nuts and bolts correctly
applied and torqued, all of the electrics work correctly it should pass. Now for some
specifics.
132
Checks and safety measures
Westfield provides a pre-IVA inspection service – it wise to use the service and spot
problems when they can be corrected.
If you have made modifications to the standard design it is essential to read the IVA
compliance manual in detail to ensure that there is no safety rule breach.
https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/203591/
M1_IVA_inspection_manual.pdf
Front of the car
Cap all forward-facing nuts with a plastic safety cover to provide the necessary safety
radius. Any forward-facing edge (should be none) has to be safety radiused. Check that
there are no sharp edges on the nosecone. The bonnet latches are approved in their
normal position – check that they are fitted correctly.
Torqued nuts and bolts
Set-up required that some nuts and bolts were not torqued until the vehicle was standing
on its wheels. These bolts should be torqued according to the text in the relevant chapter
or as listed in
Annexe 2 Torque settings.
All other critical nits and bolts should be torqued and two turns of thread must be visible
above the locking nuts.
Cabin – physical hazards
Imagine where your knee might impact in an accident and look for any radius less than
19mm within a contact area. Any sharp contact point is a potential failure. Check, in
particular, that the knee protection plates have been fitted at raised knee height where
the lower scuttle edges are.
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
FW SPECIAL
Instrumentation and Dash indicators
All of the instruments must work and that includes their illumination when the lights are
on. Check they remain illuminated with the ignition in the START and Engine Running
position. If a light extinguishes when the engine is running it is possible an earth or black
wire is not connected and the current path is through the instrument – that will cause the
light to go out when the engine runs and may cause a wrong or no indication on the
gauge.
The speedometer must be calibrated correctly to pass the IVA. It is wise to understand
exactly how to do this on the IVA day so if it fall marginally outside limits is may be
adjusted in a couple of minutes. (Correction is allowed on the day if it is quick)
Check the operation of the handbrake indicator and that the handbrake rises by about
three clicks on the ratchet to full engagement.
Check that the Oil pressure gauge indicated full pressure when the engine is running. The
charge led should light when the ignition is turned on and extinguish when the engine
starts. Run the car up to temperature to ensure that the temperature gauge indicates
around 86 degrees C and that the fan cuts-in at or around 90 degrees C. Ensure that the
fuel guage is giving the right reading. Full should indicate at about 5 gallons or 22 litres
and minimum at about half a gallon. Do not remove fuel to prove the point – too risky
but it is okay to add fuel.
Electrical functions
Everything electrical must work and correctly. The wiring loom must be secure at all
points and there must be no risk of an chafing, cutting, strain, vibration or trapping.
Wheels and tyres
Check that the tyre tread is the correct orientation – look for the rotation arrow or
orientation marks on the sidewall of the tyres. Check the pressures are 20 psi. Check
that the wheel nuts are secure and torqued. Ensure that there is no contact between the
tyre and body/wing.
Steering
Check that the steering wheel is secure and centred in the dead-ahead position. Ensure
that the crash-pad is fitted.
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
133
FW SPECIAL
Lights and indicators
134
Parking lights
Operate the light switch to the first position in with the ignition off and check that the
sidelights illuminate at front and rear. Also establish that the numberplate light is
illuminated.
Headlamp
With the ignition on, operate the Headlight switch to dipped beam and check both
headlight beams and the rear tail lights. Operate the switch to the next position and
check full beam and tail lights/numberplate light. With the headlamps on, operate the
foglight switch and check that the fog light is illuminated. With the ignition on and the
engine stopped, put the gear-lever in reverse and check that the reversing light is
illuminated.
Headlamp positions: they have to meet the alignment gauges during the IVA test. You
may elect to set up an alignment gauge via chalk marks on a wall or boad according to
the IVA regulations – see the pdf link above or this can wait for the day of the IVA test –
modest time is allowed for adjusting them on the day agains the test-centre gauges.
Indicators
With the ignition on, check the left and right indicators front and rear for correct operation
and orientation. A rapid flash is a sign of a missing connection.
Horn
With the ignition on, press the horn switch. A single tone horn only is permitted for the
IVA.
Wipers
With the ignition on, check the wipers operate at two speeds and that there is a full sweep
on the driver’s side. Check for full contact between the wiper and screen – adjust if
necessary.
On the passenger side there is not a full sweep because the mechanism fitted is 110
degrees. If there is not enough down force – shorten the arm sping to increase it. If the
wiper chatters the angle of attack may need adjustment and this may be achielved by
gently twisting the arm while the boss is held in vice soft-jaws.
Washers
Fill the water bottle and operate the wash switch. Ensure the nozzles point where they
should and adjust with a pin into the spray-ball if necessary.
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
FW SPECIAL
Decals
Check that all of the switches are marked for function according to the regulations – if all
standard parts have been used, they will be compliant
Safety
135
Check for:
1. Petrol leaks at any unions and hoses
2. Approved pipes have been used for flexible connections and the marks are
visible.
3. Press the brake hard with the handbrake on and ensure there is no sponginess or
leaks. If there is, address accordingly then rebleed the brakes.
4. Press the brake hard with the handbrake off. There may be more movement but
still no sponginess.
5. No body or chassis contact for any hose, fuel line, brake pipe
6. Same for the above, no vibration or trapping risk
a. Check the seat-belt: anchorages are secure, that the buckles operate
correctly, the shackles are connected correctly and routed properly around
or through the headrest
7. The roll bar must be secure and not move
8. Look underneath and check that the seatbelt fastenings are fully secured with
nyloc nuts and large penny washers.
9. Look into the footwell and inspect the pedals. Check for two turns of thread
above the lock-nuts, the trunnion pin is secured with the throttle cable gripped
by the grub-screw, the clutch clevis has a split pin properly flared to retain it.
There should be no excessive lateral movement in any pedal.
10. With the key in the steering unlock position rock the steering to ensure there is
no slack and no clonks.
11. Check that the bolts on the steering linkages are secure
12. Follow the path of the cooling hoses and look for signs of lealks and ensure the
jubilee clips are all secure.
13. Inspect the fuel cap for correct fitting, locking and that the cap is retained by the
internal wire.
14. Generally insect all of the body for any loose parts, protrusions, sharp edges and
any parts liable to movement.
15. Check that the screen is secure
16. In the engine compartment check:
a. Nothing will melt or burn on the exhaust manifold
b. Nothing is going to flail and be caught in the fanbelt.
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
FW SPECIAL
c. Fuel pipes are secure, will not touch hot parts and are displaying their
approval marks
136
Completion Table
Comments
Start date
Finish date
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
Time
FW SPECIAL
Annexe 1 Wiring colour decoders
Item
Dash illumination1
EARTH
Ignition Switch4
Oil temperature1
Speedometer1
Speedometer3
Speedometer5
Tachometer1
Location
Dash
Anywhere
Dash
Dash
Dash
Dash
Dash
Dash
Body
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Code
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
Stripe
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Code
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
Code
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
Tachometer3
Tachometer5
Water Temperature1
Wiper motor1
Oil pressure gauge1
Fuel Gauge1
Water Temp. Gauge1
Cooling fan
Brake fluid warning
Handbrake switch
Brake light switch1
Hazard Switch6
Heater switch1
Heater switch3
Ignition Switch1
Immobiliser2
Immobiliser5
Oil temperature3
Reversing light2
Speedometer6
Tachometer4
Washers switch1
Water Temperature3
Wiper motor4
Wiper switch1
Oil pressure gauge3
Fuel Gauge3
Water Temp. Gauge3
Fuel tank sensor
Reversing light1
Fuel Gauge2
Brake light switch2
Hazard Switch3
Indicator
Indicator
Indicator marker
Indicator switch1
Heater2
Heater switch2
Water Temperature2
Water Temp. Gauge2
Hazard Switch2
Ignition Switch3
Indicator
Indicator
Indicator marker
Indicator switch3
Heater switch1
Heater1
Dash
Dash
Dash
Scuttle
Dash
Dash
Dash
Front
Front
Rear
Front
Dash
Dash
Dash
Dash
Dash
Dash
Dash
Rear
Dash
Dash
Dash
Dash
Scuttle
Dash
Dash
Dash
Dash
Rear
Rear
Dash
Front
Dash
Front Left
Rear Left
Front Left
Dash
Scuttle
Dash
Dash
Dash
Dash
Dash
Front Right
Rear Right
Front Right
Dash
Dash
Scuttle
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Black
Green
White
White
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Green
Black
Brown
Black
Purple
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Slate
Slate
Blue
Blue
White
White
White
White
White
White
Yellow
Yellow
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
G
W
W
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
B
N
B
P
R
R
R
R
R
S
S
U
U
W
W
W
W
W
W
Y
Y
B
B
B
B
B
B
B
BG
BW
BW
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
G
GB
GN
GB
GP
GR
GR
GR
GR
GR
GS
GS
GU
GU
GW
GW
GW
GW
GW
GW
GY
GY
Function
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
EARTH/CHASSIS -ve
Fan switched supply
Brake Warning
Brake Warning
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Ignition on supply
Fuel level signal
Reversing light switched supply
Fuel level signal
Brake light sitched supply
Indicator supply
Indicator supply
Indicator supply
Indicator supply
Indicator supply
Heater supply, Slow
Heater supply, Slow
Water temperature signal
Water temperature signal
Indicator RHS
Indicator RHS
Indicator RHS
Indicator RHS
Indicator RHS
Indicator RHS
Heater supply, Fast
Heater supply, Fast
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
137
FW SPECIAL
Item
138
Location
Washers
Front
Washers switch2
Dash
Hazard Switch5
Dash
Hazard Switch1
Dash
Indicator switch2
Dash
Immobiliser1
Dash
Immobiliser4
Dash
Inertia switch1
Rear
Inertia switch2
Rear
Light switch3
Dash
Wiper switch4
Dash
Ignition Switch2
Dash
Hazard Switch4
Dash
Horn switch1
Dash
Power socket
Scuttle
Horn
Front
Horn switch2
Dash
Light switch1
Dash
Brake lights
Rear
Headlamp Sidelight
Front
Number plate light
Rear
Wiper motor3
Scuttle
Wiper switch3
Dash
Dash illumination2
Dash
Speedometer2
Dash
Speedometer4
Dash
Tachometer2
Dash
Tachometer4
Dash
Fog light
Rear
Foglight switch1
Dash
Foglight switch2
Dash
Headlamp switch2
Dash
Light switch2
Dash
Headlamp Main Beam Front
Wiper motor2
Scuttle
Wiper switch2
Dash
Headlamp switch3
Dash
Headlamp Dipped Beam Front
Headlamp switch1
Dash
Tachometer6
Dash
Oil pressure sensor
Engine
Oil pressure gauge2
Dash
Immobiliser3
Dash
Immobiliser6
Dash
Speed sensor1
Rear
Speedometer7
Dash
Oil temperature2
Dash
Speed sensor2
Rear
Speedometer8
Dash
Body
Code
Stripe
Code
Code
LtGreen
LtGreen
LtGreen
LtGreen
LtGreen
LtGreen
LtGreen
LtGreen
LtGreen
Brown
Brown
Brown
Purple
Purple
Purple
Purple
Purple
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
White
White
White
White
White
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
LG
LG
LG
LG
LG
LG
LG
LG
LG
N
N
N
P
P
P
P
P
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
U
U
U
U
U
U
U
U
W
W
W
W
W
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Black
Black
Pink
Brown
Brown
White
White
White
White
Brown
LtGreen
Yellow
Purple
Purple
Purple
Black
Black
Red
Black
Black
Black
LtGreen
LtGreen
Orange
Orange
Orange
Orange
Orange
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Pink
LtGreen
LtGreen
Red
Slate
White
Black
Brown
Brown
Red
Red
Green
Green
Brown
White
White
B
B
K
N
N
W
W
W
W
N
LG
Y
P
P
P
B
B
R
B
B
B
LG
LG
O
O
O
O
O
U
U
U
U
U
K
LG
LG
R
S
W
B
N
N
R
R
G
G
N
W
W
LGB
LGB
LGK
LGN
LGN
LGW
LGW
LGW
LGW
N
NLG
NY
P
P
P
PB
PB
R
RB
RB
RB
RLG
RLG
RO
RO
RO
RO
RO
RU
RU
RU
U
U
UK
ULG
ULG
UR
US
UW
WB
WN
WN
WR
WR
YG
YG
YN
YW
YW
Function
Washer switched supply
Washer switched supply
Flasher relay
Supply (Ignition off)
Supply (Ignition off)
Fuel pump supply
Fuel pump supply
Fuel pump supply
Fuel pump supply
Unswitched supply
Wiper speed
Solenoid actuation - Start position on key
Power supply
Power supply
Power supply
Horn switched supply
Horn switched supply
Power supply Lighting
Brake light switched supply
Brake light switched supply
Brake light switched supply
Wiper speed
Wiper speed
Dash illumination circuit
Dash illumination circuit
Dash illumination circuit
Dash illumination circuit
Dash illumination circuit
Foglight switched supply
Foglight switched supply
Foglight switched supply
Headlamp Supply
Headlamp Supply
Headlamp dipped beam
Wiper switched supply
Wiper switched supply
Headlamp parking light
Headlamp dipped beam
Headlamp Full Beam
Signal input from ECU
Oil pressure sensor
Oil pressure sensor
Alternator primary
Alternator primary
Speed sensor supply
Speed sensor supply
NOT USED Oil temperature switched supply
Speed sensor signal
Speed sensor signal
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
FW SPECIAL
Colour codes in code order (Combo highlight) for decoding the wiring diagram.
Pri
Letter
Sec
Letter Combo
Black
B
Black
B
B
Black
B
Green
G
BG
Black
B
Pink
K
BK
Black
B
LtGreen
LG
BLG
Black
B
Brown
N
BN
Black
B
Orange
O
BO
Black
B
Purple
P
BP
Black
B
Red
R
BR
Black
B
Slate
S
BS
Black
B
Blue
U
BU
Black
B
White
W
BW
Black
B
Yellow
Y
BY
Green
G
Green
G
G
Green
G
Black
B
GB
Green
G
Pink
K
GK
Green
G
LtGreen
LG
GLG
Green
G
Brown
N
GN
Green
G
Orange
O
GO
Green
G
Purple
P
GP
Green
G
Red
R
GR
Green
G
Slate
S
GS
Green
G
Blue
U
GU
Green
G
White
W
GW
Green
G
Yellow
Y
GY
Pink
K
Pink
K
K
Pink
K
Black
B
KB
Pink
K
Green
G
KG
Pink
K
LtGreen
LG
KLG
Pink
K
Brown
N
KN
Pink
K
Orange
O
KO
Pink
K
Purple
P
KP
Pink
K
Red
R
KR
Pink
K
Slate
S
KS
Pink
K
Blue
U
KU
Pink
K
White
W
KW
Pink
K
Yellow
Y
KY
Pri
Letter
Sec
Letter Combo
LtGreen
LG
Green
G
LG
LtGreen
LG
Black
B
LGB
LtGreen
LG
Pink
K
LGK
LtGreen
LG
LtGreen
LG
LGLG
LtGreen
LG
Brown
N
LGN
LtGreen
LG
Orange
O
LGO
LtGreen
LG
Purple
P
LGP
LtGreen
LG
Red
R
LGR
LtGreen
LG
Slate
S
LGS
LtGreen
LG
Blue
U
LGU
LtGreen
LG
White
W
LGW
LtGreen
LG
Yellow
Y
LGY
Brown
N
Brown
N
N
Brown
N
Black
B
NB
Brown
N
Green
G
NG
Brown
N
Pink
K
NK
Brown
N
LtGreen
LG
NLG
Brown
N
Orange
O
NO
Brown
N
Purple
P
NP
Brown
N
Red
R
NR
Brown
N
Slate
S
NS
Brown
N
Blue
U
NU
Brown
N
White
W
NW
Brown
N
Yellow
Y
NY
Orange
O
Orange
O
O
Orange
O
Black
B
OB
Orange
O
Green
G
OG
Orange
O
Pink
K
OK
Orange
O
LtGreen
LG
OLG
Orange
O
Brown
N
ON
Orange
O
Purple
P
OP
Orange
O
Red
R
OR
Orange
O
Slate
S
OS
Orange
O
Blue
U
OU
Orange
O
White
W
OW
Orange
O
Yellow
Y
OY
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Letter
Sec
Purple
P
Purple
140
Purple
Purple
Purple
Purple
Purple
Purple
Purple
Purple
Purple
Purple
Purple
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Red
Slate
Slate
Slate
Slate
Slate
Slate
Slate
Slate
Slate
Slate
Slate
Slate
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
P
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
S
S
S
S
S
S
S
S
S
S
S
S
Black
Green
Pink
LtGreen
Brown
Orange
Red
Slate
Blue
White
Yellow
Red
Black
Green
Pink
LtGreen
Brown
Orange
Purple
Slate
Blue
White
Yellow
Slate
Black
Green
Pink
LtGreen
Brown
Orange
Purple
Red
Blue
White
Yellow
Letter Combo
P
P
B
G
K
LG
N
O
R
S
U
W
Y
R
B
G
K
LG
N
O
P
S
U
W
Y
S
B
G
K
LG
N
O
P
R
U
W
Y
PB
PG
PK
PLG
PN
PO
PR
PS
PU
PW
PY
R
RB
RG
RK
RLG
RN
RO
RP
RS
RU
RW
RY
S
SB
SG
SK
SLG
SN
SO
SP
SR
SU
SW
SY
Pri
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
Blue
White
White
White
White
White
White
White
White
White
White
White
White
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow
Letter
Sec
U
Blue
U
U
U
U
U
U
U
U
U
U
U
W
W
W
W
W
W
W
W
W
W
W
W
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Black
Green
Pink
LtGreen
Brown
Orange
Purple
Red
Slate
White
Yellow
White
Black
Green
Pink
LtGreen
Brown
Orange
Purple
Red
Slate
Blue
Yellow
Yellow
Black
Green
Pink
LtGreen
Brown
Orange
Purple
Red
Slate
Blue
White
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
Letter Combo
U
U
B
G
K
LG
N
O
P
R
S
W
Y
W
B
G
K
LG
N
O
P
R
S
U
Y
Y
B
G
K
LG
N
O
P
R
S
U
W
UB
UG
UK
ULG
UN
UO
UP
UR
US
UW
UY
W
WB
WG
WK
WLG
WN
WO
WP
WR
WS
WU
WY
Y
YB
YG
YK
YLG
YN
YO
YP
YR
YS
YU
YW
FW SPECIAL
Annexe 2 Torque settings
It is important to remember that ALL suspension bolts and Nyloc nuts will be
Torqued during the set-up stage. During Assembly, all suspension bolts and Nyloc
nuts should be “nipped “only and not torque tightened.
Table 2 Torque settings
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Annexe 3 Specifications
142
Annexe 4 Basic servicing & aftercare
First Oil change
1,000 miles
Second Change Reccomended
3,000 miles
Routine oil change
6,000 miles or Annual
Racing oil change
1,000 miles
Anti-Freeze – suitable for Aluminium
radiators
Check strength each
winter
Brake Fluid change, DOT4, non-racing
3 years
Brake fluid change, DOT 4 racing
Yearly or after
overheating
Gearbox ATF oil non-racing
Check level annually,
change every 12,000
miles
Gearbox ATF oil - racing
Check level frequently
and change every 3,000
miles maximum
Differential, Check oil level
Annually, change every
12,000 miles
All moving parts
Lubricate annually
Wheel bearings and swivel joints
Replace at 60,000 miles
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
FW SPECIAL
Annexe 5 Booking an IVA & Vehicle
Registration
143
Booking an IVA
The IVA may be booked following the guidance to be found at:
www.gov.uk/vehicle-approval/individual-vehicle-approval
Vehicle testing is managed by VOSA, the Vehicle & Operator Services Agency. Read
about VOSA at:
www.gov.uk/government/organisations/vehicle-and-operator-services-agency
It is wise to contact VOSA, significantly before your build is complete, to enquire about
lead times for test centres – these can vary significantly so try to make you build
completion safely coincide with test centre availability. It is not possible to forecast here
because lead time in recent years have been so variable but in general wait times are
shorter in the Winter.
You will be applying for a Basic IVA for a class M1 vehicle and you will need to submit
the Chassis VIN – Vehicle Identification Number and pay the fee in advance.
The IVA
When you have an appointment or a clear idea of the likely date, contact your insurer if
you intend to drive there. It is permissible to drive directly to a test centre if you are
insured, without number plates and to return home directly after the test. You will of
course be in your untested car so your safety and that of others relies on the
thoroughness of your pre-checks. That responsibility may feel too great and if so take
the car to the test on a trailer.
If you do drive there it is necessary to display a notice in place of the number plate to
avoid being stopped by the Police. “IVA Test” should suffice. Have your Insurance
certificate with you anyway and allow plenty of time – this will be the first outing and
little early life failures are not unknown. Travelling with a back-up vehicle is also wise.
Go to the IVA with a set of basic tools and any IVA compliance parts to deal with any
sharp edges or missing nut caps etc. You will be allowed to correct minor deficiencies if
you can do it immediately. A tester’s approach will be influenced by the first impression
so don’t leave the car looking in any way untidy or giving the impression of being
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
FW SPECIAL
incomplete. A tidy build will be seen as through and less likely to exhibit problems so
don’t provoke a suspicion. The test is throrough and will take several hours so take
food and drink. Observe and be helpful but not intrusive. Photos may usually be taken
but do ask first.
144
If a fault is found, accept it. If a query is raised answer it completely and thruthfully or
your credibility may be destroyed and a minor fail might become a major e.g. full retest.
A minor failure will mean you will need to return by appointment in a couple of weeks to
demonstrate correction and a minor re-test fee. A major failure casts doubt over the
whole build and will mean a full re-test and repeat full fee. This is very unlikely unless
substantial error has been made. Of course, if the result is a pass, the valuable
certificate of approval will be issued and only Vehicle Registration will be required.
Applying for Registration
In 2012/13 the Government closed most DVLA local centres and that was both good and
bad news. It was previously necessary to arrive with the vehicle and all of its
documentation at your local centre: Certificate of Roadworthiness from VOSA and proof
of purchase of your all-new parts to warrant that this vehicle is worthy of a new
registration and not a Q plate as awared to vehicles of “Q”uestionable origin – e.g. donor vehicle based and mixed old and new parts.
Registrations are now only via Swansea and by post – so send off the paperwork
(registered post) / payment and wait. It is wise to ask the lead time when you apply to
avoid a lot of pacing up and down. When the registration document arrives, have your
new plates made and fix to the car. Call your Insurance company to notify them that
the car is now registered. Do not drive it on the public roads until they formally confirm
you are now fully insured.
www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/new-registrations
For any type of newly registered vehicle, you must fill in a V55/4 form - used to register
a new vehicle, including new imported vehicles and newly-built (kit) cars.
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
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About insurance for kit cars
Prices can vary greatly so it is is well worth getting several quotes. Savings can be
made by volunteering self-repair after an accident but bear in mind that often means
fixing a bent chassis (how confident might you be?). Build-up insurance used to be
commonly available for kit cars during assembly but now if you want it it will be rare and
normally only for whole years. If you are building in a garage and it is declared to your
household insurer and the premium paid it will be covered until the car is completed - at
which point it has to be described as a car for insurance purposes and not an insured
DIY project. Not all household insurance covers garage-storage and contents so again
seek clarification. If your garage is remote or off-premises you will pay a larger
premium. You may be asked if you wish legal indemnity cover. It would always seem
wise if it costs a little and potentially saves personal solvency after any claim!
Note: Insurers cannot insure a vehicle for more than a month on just a chassis number
so make sure the test is booked for IVA before insuring. If it runs to the limit and the
test is successful, notify your insurer that that you are applying for the registration and
provide evidence. The insurer will then likely be satisfied and extend the temporary
cover up to a fixed date.
Kit Car insurance is almost always mileage capped and typically at 5,000 miles per year
– extra cover is required for continental travel or higher mileage. Most will not insure
you for use as a daily commuter vehicle or wil eant an extra premium. If mleage
capped, you will need to give a mileage reading to your insurer.
If you are a member of a kit car club discouts can normally be obtained.
Thanks for choosing Westfield
Enjoy the lifestyle!
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
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Annexe 6 Remember List
Tick
Entered
Item
146
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
Due
Complete
FW SPECIAL
Tick
Entered
Item
Due
Complete
147
Copyright Westfield Sportscars Ltd 2013
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