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城市漫步北京

英文版 2 月份

国内统一刊号:

CN 11-5232/GO

February 2014

inside north korea with dennis rodman an exclusive account

Get Active. Get Social. Get Organized www.mashupsports.com

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2

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

EDITOR’s nOTE

February

Pyongyang is closer to Beijing than Milan is to London, yet in practical terms, the two cities couldn’t be further apart.

Whereas Beijing is awash with new money, new buildings and new cars, Pyongyang remains stuck in a sort of perpetual cultural revolution-era netherworld – a place that has come to fascinate outsiders in recent years as much as it repels.

Whether a mercenary team of former nBA players led by a recovering alcoholic are the right men to help bridge that divide is open to question.

Dennis Rodman has made several highly publicized visits to the

DPRK since Kim Jong Un assumed leadership of the country after the death of his father in 2012. His most recent visit – exclusively documented for us in this edition by north Korea tour operator, simon Cockerell (p.37) – was intended to be an exercise in what some have optimistically termed "basketball diplomacy."

Can Rodman’s efforts "connect countries together in the world,” as the former Chicago Bulls man has promised, or is it just a vainglorious act of self-promotion? We’ll leave you to be the judge.

Talking of exclusives, we also meet up with the original street fighting man himself, sir Mick Jagger (p.32) ahead of the

Rolling stones forthcoming China show, to talk sex, drugs, and how he once played the emperor of China (true story).

Mick’s not the only swinging senior still tearing it up, on page

10 we meet with Beijing’s aging hoodlums, and explore the strange but real issue of bad behavior among the over 60s, while on page 31 Jeremiah Jenne revaluates the Empress

Dowager Cixi – progressive reformer or conservative dragon lady? A question worth pondering, perhaps, as the snake slithers away and China once again prepares to welcome in the new Year.

Enjoy the fireworks.

That’s Beijing

Win! Win! Win!

Two tickets for Carsick Cars p.29, a pack of Koryo Tours DVDs, T-shirts and a book about Korean art p.47, multiple vouchers for afternoon tea at Flamme

Indigo Mall p.61, dinner vouchers for two at Indian Kitchen p.70, dinner vouchers for two at Cafe Sambal p.71, dinner vouchers for two at the Marriot

Northeast's Indian Restaurant p.71 and last but by no means least, two tickets to see The Rolling Stones live in shanghai p.80.

Join our

That’s

Beijing team

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

3

THE WRAP

//36 DPRK JAM

Inside north Korea with Dennis

Rodman, an exclusive account by Koryo Tour’s simon Cockerell.

// 6 CITY

Sign up for

1 year

(12 issues)

home delivery of That’s

Beijing for

RMB240

//09 CROSSING OVER

Mary Kate Magistad looks back at over two decades in Asia, in this month’s Exit Interview.

//14 BETA DAD

Our man offers up his unique take on a the ‘real’ spring

Festival (and what to avoid).

//16 LIFE & STYLE

//18 BIG CHILL

This season’s essential Polar

Vortex looks.

//26 ARTS

//22 GO WEST!

A look at the Chinese fashion brands making a (fake) Western name for themselves.

//28 LUMINEERS

Like Mumford and sons, only slightly less famous. You be the judge.

//29 CARSICK CARS

Hard-living in hard-times.

Beijing indie heroes return to the stage.

//48 EAT & DRINK

TEL: 84477002

[email protected]

//53 THE RUG

Pulling it out from under them.

//57 NBEER PUB

At just what point does a microbrewery cease being ‘mirco’?

4

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

THE WRAP

//48 EAT & DRINK

//

10 AGING HOODLUMS

It’s not that the old got bad, but the bad got old.

//30 DRAGON LADY

Power hungry murderous villain or frustrated reformer and proto-feminist? Reevaluating

Empress Dowager Cixi.

//32 MICKS LICKS

Mick Jagger gives us an exclusive interview ahead of the Rolling stones forthcoming

China show.

//50 WHISKY BUSINESS

Can whisky overtake baijiu as

China’s preferred drink?

// QUOTE OF THE ISSUE

“Dennis DiDn’t know the first thing about the DPrk: not even the Difference between north anD south, let alone the major issues.”

simon cockerell, takes us behinD the scenes of Dennis roDman’s attemPts at basketball DiPlomacy.

P36

// 60 EVENTS events pick of six art exhibitions

Xu Zhen, a Madeln

Company Production

Ongoing. UCCA Great Hall and Lobby,

798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu,

Chaoyang District

桥路 4 号 798 ([email protected]

cn, 5780 0200)

Voice:

Relations

All month. PACE

BEIJING, 798

Art District, 2

Jiuxianqiao Lu,

Chaoyang District

朝阳区酒仙桥路

2 798 艺术中心

(5978 9786)

Wonderland: Ana Tzarev solo exhibition

Until Feb 25. 10am-6pm, closed during the Spring Festival. 2F and 3F exhibition hall of Building 1, Today Art Museum, Pingod community, 32 Baiziwan

朝阳区百子湾路 32 www.todayartmuseum.com)

号苹果社区 (958760600-100,

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

“N12-No. 5”

Ongoing.

Beijing Commune,

4 Jiuxianqiao Lu,

Chaoyang District

北京市朝阳区酒仙

桥路 4 号 798 艺术区

(8456 2862)

Gregory Burns in China 1984-2014

Until Feb 27. 10am-6pm. Closed during Spring Festival. 4F, exhibition hall of Building 1, Today

Art Museum, Pingguo Community, 32 Baiziwan Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区百子湾路

果社区 4

Gabriel Orozco Chicotes

Ongoing. Faurschou Foundation Beijing, 798 Art District, 2

Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (59789316)

events

Events are editors’ picks of the best activities and are not comprehensive. To list an event, email [email protected] urbanatomy.com. For some details, see Listings.

FEB 2

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: RetroDance Chinese New Year

Count down to the year of the Horse with Tangsuan Radio's RetroDance team DJs Demone and Brass Funky

Joker.

// No cover, 9pm, Dada (see listings)

FEB 2 TO FEB 5

COMMUNITY

Workshop: CNY Street/Travel

Photography

Want to learn how to take better photographs without using Instagram?

This four day intensive workshop will combine technique, theory, on the ground shooting and post processing.

// 9.30am-1.30pm. Atelier, Room 202, Bldg. 3,

Jinxiu Yuan, Xingfucun Zhonglu 幸福村中路

锦绣园 C 楼 202 室

FEB 3 TO FEB 5

COMMUNITY

Workshop: Screen Printing

This workshop introduces the screen printing method in general and the various uses of this method such as printing on cloth (t-shirt), canvas, posters and so on. Finally, your own face on a t-shirt.

// 2-5pm. Atelier, Room 202, Bldg. 3, Jinxiu

Yuan, Xingfucun Zhonglu 幸福村中路锦绣

园 C 楼 202 室

SPORTS

Hike: Yu County’s Ancient Walled

Towns and Fireworks of Molten Iron

Make the most of the week off with a two-day trip out of Beijing. Almost four hours’ drive northwest of Beijing city is

Yu County, home to ancient pagodas, temples, pavilions, and large gates and plaques inside fortified walled towns.

// RMB1,800 (RMB1,620 for members), pickup at 8am from from Lido Hotel Starbucks, nr.

Liangmaqiao subway (www.beijinghikers.com)

FEB 3 TO FEB 7

COMMUNITY

Workshop: Introduction to

Photography

Looks like Spring Festival is all about the workshops. Beijing Academy of

Creative Arts (BACA) are running one on fire art photography suitable for all abilities.

// RMB6500, 10am-4pm.. A602, Yonghe

Mansion 雍和大厦 , 28 East Street of

Andingmen, Dongcheng District

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: Ministry Of Sound Tribute Session,

Back to the 90's

Migas are ‘avin’ it large mate, proper

90s style, Kangol hats, cheap lager… and fit birds (we hope). All the big

EaT & DRinK

ALL MONTH

eat: afternoon tea buffet at Flamme

“There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea.” So said Earl-Grey sipping writer Henry James and so say Flamme, who’d very much like you to dedicate a few hours of your afternoon to their tea buffet, which includes two cups of leafy brew (or coffee) and a choice of over 25 desserts, like macaroons, mille-feuille and chocolate chip cupcakes. For February it’s on offer for the special price of RMB98 for two people.

// Monday to Friday 2-4pm, RMB98(per couple), Flamme Indigo (see listings)

COMMuniTy

WIN!

Two vouchers for omy.

com ‘Flamme’

Feb 3

sports: nFL China oFFiCiaL superbowL party

NFL China hosts the official Super Bowl party at Kerry – pretty much the next best thing to actually being there yourself. Watch in style with a full American buffet breakfast, unlimited Budweiser, and even a few surprise guests. (Joe

Montana made an appearance at Kerry a few weeks back.) This year’s final is taking place in NYC, and though we can’t tell you which two teams will be pitted against one another, we are pretty excited about a Red Hot Chili Peppers half time show. Great excuse to get drunk in the morning, too.

// RMB2,800/table of 10 or RMB300/single ticket, (RMB188/child under 12), 7am, , Kerry Hotel, 1

Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路

1190 6392)

1 ([email protected], 156 names from the glory days of UK house and trance on the sound-system. DJs Kiran Patel and Kai.

// Free before 11pm, RMB30 after, The Bar at

Migas (see listings for details)

FEB 4

SPORTS

Hike: Auspicious Village and

Huanghuacheng Great Wall

Head out to Huairou County for a countryside walk through farmland, hills, dales and valleys. There might even be a chance for a sing-song.

//RMB400, RMB360 for members. (64328038, [email protected], www.beijinghikers.

com)

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Chang Kuan & Baby Brother

Celebrated 80s rocker Chang Kuan resurrects his act for a crowd of young

Chinese with mobile internet and one foreigner, who will eventually write a book about him. DJ Ouyang supports.

// RMB150, RMB100 (presale), 9pm,

Yugongyishan (see listings for details).

FEB 6

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Bob Marley Day

Beijing’s annual Reggae party returns with live music from One Drop and DJs spinning the best of dancehall, reggae and dub.

// RMB100 (door), RMB70 (presale), 7pm,

Yugongyishan (see listings for details)

FEB 8

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Xu Jun

Gritty folk singer-songwriter from

Xi’an plays deep-chested tunes that you don’t doubt as anything but real, especially when he busts out his native

Shaanxi dialect.

// RMB40, 9pm, Blue Stream Bar, 183 Jiu Gulou

Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区旧鼓楼大

街 183 (158 1136 8566)

FEB 9

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Backtrack

Upcoming hardcore quintet from Long

Island, New York returns to Beijing to tour latest album Lost in Life. If you haven’t heard of them, take a gamble.

“Gambling has definitely made my life better, sometimes it’s made me want to kill myself, but for the most part, it’s made it a lot better,” says frontman

James Vitalo.

// No cover, Mao Livehouse, (see listings for details)

COMMUNITY

Talk: Looking for the Masterplan,

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

new Bars p56

Fashion p20

Tiger Father p58

Underground p28

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

5

CITY

Random Number

THE BUZZ

6,000

That’s the number of buses stuck in traffic each day in

Beijing. Severe congestion has led to a record low in arrival times among the city’s once famously punctual fleet of buses.

According to the Beijing Daily, bus punctuality dipped below 18 percent last year, a sure sign, the newspaper reports, that more bus lanes are needed as a way to speed up public transport.

Yang Weiyan, a driver of the

No. 300 bus that encircles the city on the Third Ring Road, told the newspaper that the current passenger rate among his route hovers around the 45 percent mark, as more and more citizens choose the metro to dodge traffic jams.

Although the total length of the city’s designated bus lanes has reached 365.5 kilometers, many of the lanes remain unconnected and are not joined by a single network, explained

Liu Meilian, deputy to the city’s

Municipal People’s Congress. In a survey conducted by Liu and other deputies, 70 percent of the 500 respondents support adding more bus lanes to create congestion relief. SG

Quote of the month

“There’s nothing that can’t be bought for the right price.”

// Our favorite recycling tycoon turned philanthro-mentalist, Chen

Guangbiao, lays out his philosophy for acquiring the New York Times, announcing that he would meet with a “leading shareholder” for dinner to talk over his US$1 billion offer. The Times current market value is USD2.4 billion. A spokeswoman for the US newspaper said she “had no information about any such meeting.” Chen has previously made headlines for a string of publicity stunts, including an advertisement in the Times saying that the Diaoyu Islands belong to

China, rushing to the scene of the

Sichuan Earthquake with a fleet of cranes, rescuing survivors and handing out cash to the homeless villagers, having two cars run over him (“for the environment”), selling cans of fresh air in polluted cities and proposing that people without a high-school diploma should be prohibited from giving birth. Don’t believe he is

God’s gift to the universe? Check out his business card…

CHINESE WHISPERS

Urban myths: Phantom subway stops on Line 1

The myth: Ever notice that

Beijing’s subway stations not only have names, but also numbers?

Dongzhimen, for example, is 214

(being the 14th station on Line 2),

Beijing South is 404, Beixinqiao

511 and so forth. However, Line

1’s numbers actually start from

Pingguoyuan (103) and end at Sihui East (125). So where, pray, are 101 and 102? And how come, as some passengers have noticed, there are already people on the train as it shunts into

Pingguoyuan? Who are these people and what is going on?

The reality: Subway Line 1 is a line with secrets! Pingguoyuan is not the real starting station – Line

1 was originally built for military purposes. In 1965, with the help of the Soviet Union, Beijing built the subway as a war defense project. There are two stations before 103 Pingguoyuan, namely

101 Gaojing and 102 Fushouling, both located in northwest

Beijing, a military sensitive area.

Although the two stations are fully equipped like other running stations, they are ruled out from civilian subway use for national security. However, they are not entirely abandoned. Before they were blocked on May 28th 2007, two trains passed Fushouling station everyday, and some students and local villagers would catch the train and enjoy free travel.

Verdict: Because the two stations are located in mountainous areas (Gaojing station is in a military compound), the part of

Beijing which is of great strategic importance for defense, the two stations have been blocked for almost 40 years. But being blocked doesn’t mean they can never be used. On special occasions, such as times of war or natural disaster, maybe they will prove to be the most vital channel of all. KK

6

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

Edited by RFH, Stephen George, james griffiths & karoline KAN

Meme of the Month

“Feed people smog”

DON’T YOU KNOW WHO I AM?

Wang Ti

Shanghai, China’s financial hub, likes to compete with Beijing, its political epicenter, in every aspect

– but until now, the capital has always bossed it when it came to hardore pollution (notwithstanding that business with the pigs and the water and the diseased livestock… bleuh).

But the turn of the year saw the southerners fight back with PM10 readings shooting up to as high as 726 at one air-quality station in Putuo district, with averages across some parts of Shanghai at an off-the-charts level of 602.5, and visibility in neighboring

The Sino Files

No. 9: The F.O.B.

Jiangsu province registering at less than 200 meters (and under

50 meters in some areas of  central and east China).

As usual, ordinary people are limited to criticizing, mocking, and sighing about this catastrophe online – and now with a new meme, ‘Feed People Smog’ (喂

人民服雾; Wei renmin fuwu), a homophone of Mao’s famous diktat to “Serve the People” (为人

民服务). The phrase captured the public imagination after first appearing as a comment on a news article, according to the website

Hug China.

Name William ‘will.i.am’ Buck

Age 22

Who After racking up thousands of dollars’ worth of college debt,

Buck finally took the plunge – and moved to New

York. But

Manhattan’s media proved hostile to a hip new marijuanana columnist and William’s

‘drone dealing’ program crashed into the Brooklyn

Bridge. Refusing to move back to

Milwaukee, Buck took his transferrable skills to Asia – and quickly ended up in China. With a nonprofit job encouraging dialectic philosophy in American TV at the

Wukesong Number 12 Middle

School,

Buck hit the streets with next-to-no idea and a healthy dose of misplaced confidence.

But it has only taken him a few

Image by K atie Morton weeks to become fully conversant in all things China.

Says “It’s actually pretty free here,

The comment discussed the need for a Sinocized word for ‘PM2.5,’ with homophones such as “public smog source” (a reference to civil servants), “capital dust” or “Beijing dust,” “dust-caused disease misses sweet” (Genghis

Khan), “dust world beautiful”

(Peking Opera heartbreaker Chen

Shimei), “keep inhaling dust”

(Hong Kong actor Edison Chan), before most settled on the fivecharacter phrase, which was well received by sarcastic netizens who added to the fun.

Comments included references to the Japanese 731 army and

Shanghainese materialism (“repackage and promote it and property prices will soon double”) but perhaps the biggest laughs went to state media, who – perhaps heeding some unknown Party line – chose to praise the smog in editorials in CCTV and The Global

Times, one which praised smog’s ability to make Chinese people

“more equal, more united and more humorous” and another which said smog has national-security benefits as it makes targets harder for foreign missiles. Satire or straight? It’s impossible to tell for sure. RFH man. Last Friday, I was out with a bunch of Norwegian girls outside this crazy little club – we were drinking beer straight from the bottle. Then, this Japanese girl went past on roller skates.

“I’m best friends with these three mad British dudes I met one night. They’re planning to go camping on the Great Wall next weekend. Imagine doing that back home – you couldn’t, right?

The locals are awesome. Super chill. I bought breakfast off that random guy over there; only eight bucks. I wanted to go to Jingshan

Park because apparently you can see the whole city, but I couldn’t find it, so I just sat outside the subway – just people watching, you know? I feel like I’m part of the Lost Generation? Hemingway,

Fitzgerald, Kerouac. It’s like Paris in the 1940s.” SG

From footballer’s wife to convicted fraudster – 32-year-old Wang

Ti was jailed for life on Christmas

Day after scamming a cool RMB60 million from Beijing’s finest, including an Olympic gold medalist and television stars.

After leaving Dalian sports star husband Wang Sheng, the exfootballer’s wife found other ways to maintain her luxury lifestyle. Moving to the capital,

Wang passed herself off as the lovechild of an affair between

Li Changchun, former member

Politburo Standing Committee member, and Lu Xin, an ex-deputy minister.

“That made it impossible to check her background, a very delicate matter,” said one of Wang’s victims, in written testimonies obtained by the Telegraph. She soon ensnared Xiao Qin, an Olympic gold medal-winning gymnast and senior PLA officer. “I first met him at a wedding,” she told the court.

“Afterwards I drove an Audi TT and carried a fancy handbag and spent a lot of money making sure

I looked good … A week later, we had sex in my house and moved in together.”

Xiao introduced her to his circle, including Olympic athletes Yang

Yun and Yang Wei. “I thought these athletes dressed tastelessly

– some of their clothes were even fakes,” she opined. “They thought

I was a tycoon because I dressed well, carried a real Louis Vuitton handbag and lived in an expensive compound.”

To elicit cash, she would rent out apartments, claim ownership and sell them on. But as the months passed and no contracts materialized, her suspicious victims eventually reported her to police.

They still took a while before they investigated, one of her marks explained, as “they wanted to make sure she really wasn’t the daughter of Li Changchun.” NK

7

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

Printed in partnership with

BeijingCream.com

TALES OF THE CITY

subway hike food scandal

La Pizza nonplussed

Hour of the Left

Tower

Chef Luca Mania might serve a mean pizza, but we recommend avoiding the lemonade at Sanlitun’s La Pizza.

According to the Beijing News, local resident Shen was hospitalized after drinking from a thermos of water containing detergent (Shen originally asked for hot water, but got

Sprite. He sent the pop back and ended up being dosed.

Moral: drink the Sprite).

Shen’s wife told the media that he is recovering, but transit chaos

Game of drones

The unannounced appearance of a drone flying at 100 km/h over

Beijing airport caused a helicopter to be scrambled to intercept it. It turned out the plane was equipped with a camera for mapping operations by a local company – all legal, except they didn’t warn air-traffic control.

The incident delayed 10 flights and saw the four-man drone team charged with “endangering public security” and “seriously interrupting flight order.” Imagine if they’d breached the new ADIZ.

that the extent of his internal injuries is still being calculated

(probably on a calculator).

Holding company the Miele

Food Import Export has taken responsibility for the incident, explaining that a cleaner put graffiti

Rectified Ron

washing detergent into a dirty flask and then left it there.

When the new shift came on, they assumed it was good to go… and the rest is front-page news, apparently. The lawyers are now involved.

Here’s some 21st-century name rectification. If you live near the

International School of Beijing in

Shunyi, some local wag has been dropping weirdly attributed truth bombs. “A poor original is better than a good imitation” (says

Ron Jeremy: an unparalleled innovator in his own right, Ron has probably never uttered such wisdom in his life. Try American poet Ella Wheeler), “Drop it like it’s hot” (Master Yoda – or Snoop

Dogg? You decide) and “I love bad bitches” (Karl Marx, apparently, though the writer seemed to have second thoughts and scratched that pearl).

Rejoice, heritage lovers! While parts of New Beijing are falling apart (see below), there’s a plan afoot to restore the bits that were already soundly destroyed during the outer-urban demolition era of the 1950s.

The Zuoanmen (‘Left’)

Tower, probably one of the least-impressive parts (pictured, above) of the vanished Old City

Walls, is to be rebuilt on the inside moat bank by the southeast corner of the

Second Ring Road, along with its accompanying wall.

The restoration will cover the greenbelt side of the river, and has been approved by the city, China Daily reported. But there’s not much in the way of original blueprints, meaning the plans are mainly based on some architects’ notes from the 1950s and this picture we have included, taken by a Swedish visitor in the 1920s. Oh boy.

Subway creep

That sinking feeling

A 10-meter (32-foot) deep crater has appeared on the East

Fourth Ring Road, complete with rising white steam, after a section of the sideway collapsed. No one was hurt but traffic was cut off as the road underwent urgent repairs.

China Daily explained the collapse was due to subsidence from the construction of a water pipe. Last year the city saw 18 road collapses in the space of 10 days. In 2011, a truck was swallowed whole by a sinkhole that suddenly appeared on a Beijing street. The driver was unhurt. But a number of pedestrians have been less lucky, including one woman who got swallowed up and boiled alive by a sidewalk in 2012; she perished in hospital a week later. Mind the gap.

8

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

ExIT INTERVIEW

CITY

GOODBYE, MARY KAY

A RECOVERING FOREIGN CORRESPONDENT’S PROGNOSIS

BY rfh

A n award-winning

American China correspondent, Mary Kay

Magistad has spent over two decades in Asia, covering topics such as North Korea, Taiwan,

Sino-US relations and China’s economy and society. She was the first Beijing bureau chief for

National Public Radio. Last year,

Magistad bid a fond farewell to

China. Here she gives an overview of her time.

On first coming to China

I’d been based in Southeast Asia for NPR, at a time when feelings about China in the region were changing from wariness to cautious hope. I grew interested in seeing what China was like from the inside, and persuaded my foreign editor to let me open

NPR’s first official bureau in

China.

On early memories

The first time I visited China was

June 1989. I had a visa to go to

North Korea, which I had to pick up in Beijing… I was expecting more chaos than was immediately apparent on my way in from the airport. It took no time at all, after that, to take in the magnitude of what had happened, and the depth of the shock, tension and betrayal that many people felt.

On the biggest changes

[In 1989] Beijing was still a city of bicycles. It was more monochromatic, with many people in blue-and-gray garb, and surly staff in shops and restaurants.

And there was still the baffling system of Foreign Exchange

Certificates for foreigners.

When I came back in early

1995, it felt like someone had flipped a switch and turned on the Technicolor. There was, literally, more color – but also more hustle, more activity, more of a palpable sense that you could make something of your own life… but also, an accompanying anxiety that – if you didn’t put in the effort – you’d be left behind.

China has continued to evolve and change, to become more wealthy and market-oriented, more confident and more mus-

Magistad with PLA soldiers being used as e xtras at a film set in

Dairy in Anhui province, reporting on the impact of dairy demand cular as a global power. At the same time, many individual

Chinese have become more affluent, more sophisticated, more aware of their rights as citizens and willing to speak out if they feel those rights aren’t being respected.

Another seismic change… is the shift from being predominantly rural to predominantly urban.

And with the furious pace of building up and out, has come a growing use of coal, a huge spike in pollution, and increasing awareness that the human cost… is unsustainably high.

The government now faces significant challenges, with a slowing economy, growing income disparity, and rising expectations from an increasingly empowered population.

On being a “recovering foreign correspondent”

For someone who’s interested

‘When I told a journalist I was naming my blog

“Recovering foreign correspondent,” she said, ‘You never recover.’

in the world, likes meeting interesting people and being made to think and grow, being a foreign correspondent is pretty addictive.

Indeed, when I told a fellow correspondent I was thinking of naming my blog recoveringforeigncorrespondent.com,

EXIT

INTERVIEW she shook her head with mock moroseness and said, ‘You never recover.’ How is my prognosis?

I doubt I’ll ever recover either, after almost three decades abroad, reporting in some 40 countries. It permanently changes your perspective on the world

– in a good way.

On Beijing’s view of media

My experience, over the 14 years I lived in and covered

China, was that… there was

[before] an apparent underlying understanding of what foreign correspondents do. Lately, that seems to have given way to a belief, at least in some quarters, that foreign correspondents have nefarious intent, and are looking for ways to attack China.

In truth, most of us would approach reporting in our own country, or in any other country, no differently.

On the difficulties of leaving

It was certainly bittersweet.

I loved living in China, and getting to know some of the extraordinary and courageous people I did. I expect I’ll continue to stay in touch and stay connected with China for a long time to come.

On a changing sense of identity

Living outside the United States since 1984 has made me appreciate that there’s more than one way to look at most issues, and to reexamine the paradigms

I grew up with. I imagine that’s true for many long-term expats.

You’re still a citizen of your own country, but also a citizen of the world.

On advice for young writers

Relax, maintain a sense of humor, and don’t sweat the small stuff. Always look for the story behind the story; don’t be afraid to break away from the crowd and do something different…

Get out of Beijing and travel…

Leave yourself open to random encounters, experiences, and conversations; they often turn out to be the most memorable.

// Follow Mary Kay Magistad’s post-China adventures at recoveringforeigncorrespondent.

com A full version of this interview can be found online at www.thatsmags.com

9

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

CITY

SpECIAl FEATURE

Old Men

Behaving

Badly

WHAT’S UP WITH CHINA’S

SENIOR CITIZENS?

By Karoline Kan

I n The Analects, the Chinese sage Confucius includes an anecdote in which he rebukes a mature student, Yuan Rang.

“When you were young, you didn’t value the moral of filial piety,” ‘Kong Fuzi,’ as he is known in

Chinese, scolds Yuan.

“Then when you grew up, you didn’t achieve anything. But now as an old man, you’re still shamelessly living. You are such an annoying pest!”

Harsh words, perhaps, but this dialectic philosophy reflects the traditional relationship between young and old in China. In

Confucian culture, seniors are respected, but on the condition that they meet requirements of widom and morality.

Rome wasn’t built in a day, and so the road to respectability begins with years of learning, without which one might be cursed as an ‘undead creature,’

10 a traditional curse directed at burdensome geriatrics. Even in

China, gray hair and wrinkles are no license to impunity.

“Although it came with high expectations, generally, respect has always been given to

Chinese seniors,” says Professor

Chang Yaohua of the Beijing

International Studies University

(BISU). “They were regarded as a caste of better-mannered people with high moral principles, in harmony with the cultural system.”

In recent months, though,

China’s post-70 year olds have replaced so-called ‘1980s and

90s generations’ as the subject of several hand-wringing editorials about the state of society.

In Jiangsu province, cars in a residential compound received fly-posters warning owners not to park on “the vitally important dancing area,” which was a

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

‘IT Is noT ThaT

The old goT bad, buT ThaT The bad goT old’

public space. When residents objected, the ayis (‘aunties’) behind the campaign suggested neighbors “install sound-proof glass,” complaining, “Why can’t young people get up early?”

A Changsha woman who confronted a group that was disturbing her 90-year-old mother recived short thrift. “They were very rude and came towards me, surrounding me,” she told The

Guardian. Now long-running anger against elderly troupes is turning to action. Students in

Tangshan, forced into a silent protest against the dancers near their classroom, were dubbed

“mischievous” by the pensioners. Residents in Chengdu threw water bombs; in Wuhan and

Changsha, troupes were spattered with excrement. One

Beijinger took things further in

November, firing a shotgun in protest; he was arrested for illegal possession of a firearm.

Dance troupes are the tip of the iceberg. In November, one

70-year-old Hebei man shouted at a girl who failed to offer him her seat, calling her “ill-bred” – then sat on her legs. Meanwhile in Gansu, a zealous cop held an elderly woman at gunpoint in

January, after octogenarian fruitpickers descended on a truck that had spilled its cargo.

And then there are the tales of older people extorting money through insurance scams or by blackmailing Good Samaritans.

In the most recent example,

46-year-old father Wu Weiqing is alleged to have committed suicide in Guangdong, after the elderly road-traffic victim he stopped to assist later demanded a huge sum of money in compensation. If Wu hoped his death might spark a soulsearching nationwide debate, though, he was sadly mistaken.

Yet as Phoenix TV put it in a spe-

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

11

CITY

SpECIAl FEATURE

In a widley shared photo, a policeman points his gun an an old woman scrambling for oranges from an overturned truck in Gansu province cial report: ‘Are China’s Elderly

Disrespectful?’

In the minds of some, the fault lies with Reform and Opening

Up: according to them, the turbulent Mao period was one of equality – where everyone was equally poor – and seniors were

‘honorable.’ Economic reform resulted in a society that was more complicated (‘chaotic’) that saw innocence corrupted by ‘hooliganism,’ exemplified by the country’s first Criminal Law in 1979.

“In terms of ideology and thinking, China is back to the time of the Warring States [a pluralistic period with multiple kingdoms and schools of thoughts],” claims

Professor Chang. “Chinese tradition has been broken up since

1919 and the May 4 movement, along with subsequent movements, but the impact reaches up until today.”

But a series on ifeng.com has a different idea. “Most of the elderly’s flaws come from their education, when they were at the most crucial stage for forming character and sensibility,” the anonymous author argues.

Song Binbin, former Red Guard leader and daughter of the late PLA general Song Renqiong, made a public apology for crimes committed during the Cultural Revolution

“[Reform] and the ensuing social changes came after, when they already had a stable identity.”

The articles use “deficient” to describe people born before

1949, and makes few allowances for their circumstances of their upbringing, such as the

Anti-Rightist purges, Great Leap

Forward, 100 Flowers campaign and the Cultural Revolution.

Scarce resources, at a time when the state bred deep mistrust of others, led to habits such as materialism and hoarding.

To survive in a time when the old morality system was smashed, any means were adopted.

As writer Gao Wangling noted in his 2006 rural treatise Investigation of Chinese

Peasants’ “Reactionary Action”

During The People’s Commune

Period [1958-1980], “Those who don’t steal, won’t last.”

“They are the generation that grew up drinking wolf milk, educated by the law of the jungle,” ifeng.com observes. “Their rule was those who are stronger and more powerful get everything.

There were no constraints or bottom lines in a time when people can beat their teachers and report their parents.” The articles deplore these generations’ lack of spiritualism. “They don’t know how to discuss and negotiate. And intellectually, classic books, literature, poems, music and manners were ruled out in their schooling, which made them ignorant and rude.”

“It is not that the old people got bad,” is the damning conclusion.

“The bad people got old.”

Zhang Mishu is 73 but doesnt think todays generation of elderly is anything special. ”Yes, we went through some ‘special’ periods but I don’t think the impact is on individuals’ daily behavior,”

Zhang says. “It is more on the country’s political aspects.”

Beijing-based psychologist Dr.

Wei Guangdong disagrees, saying teenage experience can have a lifelong effect on personality.

“It is like a shadow that people can’t escape,” Dr. Wei explains.

“It has a life-long effect – people become who they are from society more than their parents.”

12

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

He says it is irresponsible to call

China’s seniors ‘bad’ people.

“Old people are at a special crossroads in life, a period of loss. Physical ability, career positions, social and family roles all present a downward turn”, says Dr. Wei. “The changes are followed by negative attitudes, psychological imbalances, mood swings, anxiety and even anger.”

This dichotomy – the old got bad; the bad got old – is “the classic style of Chinese criticism,” says Chen Fang, a critic at the

Yanzhao Metropolis Daily. “In

China, one generation likes to judge another. When the [baling-

hou, post-80s] were given labels, like ‘unreliable’ and ‘selfish,’ it seemed China had no future.

Today they are the backbone of society... But now that they have the power of discourse, the

balinghou turn it back on those who once judged them.”

Chen says young people should be careful in their criticism.

“Youngsters know how to use the Internet to make a sensation but their ‘enemy’, the seniors, have no ability to defend themselves online,” Chen warns.

“Putting on labels is dangerous.

It could be another Cultural

Revolution, this time online.”

BISU’s Professor Chang went through the same years of mad-

‘PuTTIng labels on Peo-

Ple rIsks anoTher

CulTural revolu-

TIon’

ness as his peers. “But I think it is too subjective to say they are a generation of bad people,” he argues. “Experiencing it made people think and learn to regret.

And even during those years, there were always good people who kept their moral compass.”

Pensioner Zhang agrees.

“Incidents [like the spat over a bus seat] could happen any time. It happened in the past and I’m sure it will also happen in the future,” he argues. “Is it something young people should be proud of, if they are sitting on a bus while seniors are standing beside them?”

Last year, Chen Xiaolu, son of the late Marshal Chen Yi, apologized for Cultural Revolution

“misdeeds,” while in January, general’s daughter Song Binbin, an infamous Red Guard, publicly expressed remorse at a speech at Beijing Normal University.

These ‘confessions’ carry considerable moral weight, though not as much as an official apology.

(“[Reform was] a complete and firm denial,” the Global Times argued in January. “The nationwide introspection of the 1980s is more constructive than a socalled apology.”)

The media’s focus on blame is unhelpful, argues Professor

Chang. “It confirms the classic journalism principle – ‘dog bites man’ isn’t news but ‘man bites dog’ is,” he says. “People have expectations about seniors; they like to think that vulnerable groups only consist of kind people [but] that is just what people want to believe… Bad people are bad people, of all ages.”

“The current generation experienced all the turbulences and tragedies of modern China. Their lack of material and spiritual cultivation led to a failure of moral standards,” argues Chen Fang.

“When [old people] dance in public, they don’t care if their behavior bothers others. When they see young people not give up their seats, they choose to use violence. But if these ayis had more space for activities, would they still bother people?

If people on the bus were always kind to the old, would their ‘evil’ side be aroused?” Chen believes

Chinese society is doomed to grow old before it grows rich and therefore, there will be more conflicts of this type.

In February 2013, the China

National Committee on Aging reported that, in 2012, China’s over-60s population reached 194 million, and will pass 200 million by the end of 2014. This pressure on limited social resources will deepen clashes between old and young. Be prepared, then, for the age of the grumpy old man.

Throw your hands in the air and wave them around like you just don't care about anyone else: to some, the elderly habit of danincg in public is an annoyance

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

13

RElATIONSHIPS

BETA DAD: SpRING FESTIVAl SpECIAl

A SprIng In hIS STEp

OUR MAN SHUDDERS AT A NEW YEAR ‘BROMANCE’ TOO FAR

By carlos ottery

Beta Dad enjoys a game of mahjong with his extended

Chinese family in guangdong, none of whom tried to sleep with him and (inset) a

Chinese boy offers Beta

Dad the gift of

Mario Kart

C hristmas and Spring Festival

– supposedly, special family time. In actuality, most end up schlepping back to a hometown they never much cared for, to spend quality time with relatives they never much liked and enjoy traditional food and TV they would never normally endure.

Bah, humbug.

In China, my Spring Festival is normally spent with family

– my Chinese family. Usually, that meant ‘Tex,’ my best friend from my Dongguan days. Back then,

Tex was keen to show me all the city sights, except there weren’t any. Still, he did his best. We went to the city’s must-see highlight, Qifeng Mountain – a small concrete hill. And that was that.

But Tex was always the kindest of friends, willing to do anything, and I felt the need to try to the same. So when Chinese New

Year comes round when I’m in

Beijing, it means I have to travel.

Last year I was broke, so had to get the train; a standing ticket, as there were no seats left. A 28hour journey is about manageable with a bed and some sleeping pills; endurable with a seat; but in the middle of winter, during the world’s largest hu-

‘Had he mistaken me for his wife

(and why wasn’t he sleeping with her, anyway)?’

man migration, while standing, it’s a bore (to put it mildly).

Fortunately, I’d done it a couple of times before and was ready, though I’d only recommend this to the hardiest of souls. The pushing and squashing is inevitable, but be prepared to go without visiting a fetid bathroom for hours and to sleep like a donkey: standing up. The trick is to make friends, fast. Any extra inch of space is a godsend and you need to get on with the migrants immediately around you – preferably by offering around plenty of cheap cigarettes.

Tex used to spend Chunjie in a tiny coastal town a four-hour drive from the station. There’s not much to do: a KTV, MFC (yes,

‘M’) and a pool hall. I liked it.

Every year, an ancient granny of some 160 years of age sat me down and murmured at me for hours in a dialect while I sat, nodding and smoking. We’d then let off firecrackers, occasionally chucking them at chickens strolling about the alleys. Tex’s parents treated me like a distant, mute son; his mother cooks the same meal every year, always putting out a few beers for me, which was thoughtful as nobody else drank, including Tex. It’s all very low-key and on the big night, we gambled on a card game called cow-cow. I usually lost lots of money. After a few days, it was time to go home – another 28 hours in the cattle truck – and that was that.

Now Tex is married, he alternates

Spring Festival with his Hunan inlaws. But it was a very different vibe to Guangdong when I went.

Tex’s hometown may be humble but it was also clean, peaceful and easygoing; everybody carried themselves with grace.

The village outside Changsha was a different story — scary and rough as hell. There was an actual cesspit. On arrival, I dashed into the toilet, beside which was a plastic bowl with several large fish swimming: it was that night’s supper.

Big Zhao, the father-in-law, cracked out his best booze – some five-liter relative of baijiu, festooned with snakes, a scorpion and even a crab, all marinating in the giant jug. He claimed to have had this particular brew on the go for over five years. I had three glasses, one after the other and felt slightly invigorated (it’s not that bad).

We all went out for a short walk and a Chinese guy on a moped stopped to chat with Big Z, then pulled a writhing plastic bag outfrom the back of his scooter. Big

Z studied the contents, gave a nod of assent and took the bag.

Eel de Changsha was now on the evening menu.

We did the rounds of various family; I was given cartons of cigarettes, betel nut and oranges – all things I’m fond of.

Later, while having a smoke with a particularly criminal-looking

14

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

uncle, he suddenly pulled me into a brothel and whipped out some money. It was starting to look like the high point of the trip but we were spotted by one of the aunts and the flint-faced uncle was forced to claim it was a prank. I slipped away from the ensuing row but, sadly, didn’t see him again for the whole trip.

There was a sudden change of plan for New Year Eve’s, and I was asked if I minded spending it with the grandparents-in-law.

The house I was in was pretty basic. I wondered what things would be like after we had gone back a generation.

The next day we headed up to their village, a dirt track in the middle of nowhere with a few shops (all selling the same thing) and a dozen houses. Granny’s was a brick courtyard with jerryrigged electricity and wild chickens. The novelty wore off when it dawned on me there was precisely nothing to do. No heating, books or TV and certainly no

Internet. Normally, by this stage,

Tex and I have ran out of stuff to say but there’s usually wine and card games to fill the gap. Here, there were holes in the roof, and it was snowing.

One unexpected saving grace was Tex’s fake iPhone, which had a shanzhai version of Mario Kart which, over the interminable days, I completely mastered.

Unfortunately, there were litters of kids inexplicably running around and they all wanted a piece too.

Things got worse: there was no running water, and instead I was handed a bowl of water pumped from a well, and a flannel, and told to go wash outside. This involved a strip wash in -8° C weather; there was an outhouse of sorts but it was riddled with huge holes. I heard people moving outside and occasionally glimpsed eyes peering at the exotic white monkey shivering and slapping inside.

I looked forward to the three large meals a day, mostly because it was something to do.

At lunch and dinner there was

baijiu, and I quickly forced myself to become a fan of the demon drink. It would have been nice at breakfast, too.

Far from bringing sweet oblivion, though, bedtime came fraught with problems. Tex and I were sharing a single bed, which during the night would gently collect a snowdrift. I was basically sleeping in the snow. As the nights drew on, Tex would draw close, seeking warmth and, so it seemed, other comforts.

Friends had sometimes commented, in amusement, that

Tex’s affection bordered on a man crush – and indeed, his insistence on paying for meals could be a little much. Then there were the gifts: a flashing lighter here, a new pool cue there. Mobile phones. Jewelry.

Lying in that freezing bed, his chin nuzzling my shoulder, it struck me that maybe it was I who’d misread the signs.

Awake in the dead of night, Tex lay his arm across my chest and drew me in for a kiss. I pushed him away and suddenly he was fast asleep again. Had he unconsciously mistaken me for his wife (and why wasn’t he sleeping with her, anyway)? I tried to forget and the following night passed without incident. I awoke at dawn, however, in a state of unconscious arousal and went to adjust my trousers. “Can I help you?” The sound of Tex’s eager voice, so suddenly and early was alarming. I answered just as swiftly. “No. I’m fine... Thanks.”

There was a silence. “Just let me know,” he murmured.

The rest of the stay was spent on high alert. My mind was in conflict. The bed was small and it was cold; spooning wasn’t welcome but could be acceptable within those bounds. Tex’s advances weren’t subtle by any means, but they were never so unmistakable that I could say –

“Look. Enough is enough, mate. I don’t fancy you. So stop it.”

I’m still good mates with Tex, of course, but we don’t chat quite as much as we used to. And it increasingly looks like I will spend this Spring Festival alone and friendless, with neither money nor family, back in Old Smoggy.

I’m quite looking forward to it.

// To offer Beta Dad a platonic Chinese New

Year: [email protected]urbanatomy.com

NOW

HIRING!

Are you young, enthusiastic, personable and in love with

Beijing?

Prefer DADA to Vics? Know your New York Times from your Global Times? Can handle late nights as well as early mornings?

Then we want to hear from you.

That’s Beijing is hiring a Business

Development Manager to oversee our city wide marketing – from events and parties, to special promotions and networking opportunities – your job will be to boost the visibility of our brand.

Think you’ve got what it takes?

For more information contact [email protected]

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

15

LifE&STYLE

StylE rAdAr

STYLE SECRETS

Julian Wilson, co-founder of Khunu

How would you describe your style?

It really depends what mood I am in when I get out of bed. I wear jeans all the time, dressed up with a jacket or a sweater. But I don’t mind leaving the house for coffee in the morning in tracksuit bottoms and a puffer jacket.

Describe Khunu in a nutshell:

A high-end, socially-aware yak wool clothing company. We set it up in 2009, and launched our web store in 2010, catering mainly to Europe and the US.

What does Khunu mean?

Khunu is an adaptation of the

Mongolian name of the first collective of Mongolian tribes that pre-dated Ghengis Khan by some

1,000 years. Our company is all about people, so it was important we had a name that somehow connected us to the yak herders living in the places that led us to start this business.

What’s your position in the market?

We mainly do menswear, with a few unisex accessories thrown in the mix. Our products offer a more stylish, wearable take on outdoor and performance clothing, so they attract anyone who likes old-school, comfort quality while retaining a taste for adventure and the outdoorsy life.

I’d say we offer a cross-balance between function and form.

Where do you source the fibers and textiles for your products?

We go mainly to Western China – specifically Qinghai and Sichuan.

I first traveled there when I was studying in Beijing, and it was then that the initial idea for this project was seeded. I got to know yak wool and made my way back to Beijing with a sack full of this fiber, determined to make something out of this beautiful textile.

We’ve remained small, but that means we’ve kept our focus, which is really how we’ve been able to grow in terms of production and quality.

// khunu.com

Six of the best… Headphones

Beats

The Queen Bee of the modern headset, Beats by

Dr. Dre spawned an entire industry of high-priced, logo-embossed earphones, as well as a shady counter-industry of poorly-made

Yashow knock-offs. Word. These bulky mammoths are a gaudy staple of malls, planes, clubs and sidewalks everywhere.

RMB2,580.

Monster DNA

Slick-looking and pretty futuristic with their hiphop design, Monster

DNA headphones make you literally feel every beat that counts while cutting out all the noise you don’t need to hear. Perfect for ignoring your shouty neighbors, less so when you’re cycling. RMB1,980.

TDK

A solid wireless option, TDK’s

WR700’s high fidelity sound is rich, full and detailed. Use them on your mobile to look like a real gangsta when you’re actually just taking a call from your mum. RMB999.

Skullcandy

On the more affordable side of the spectrum,

Skullcandy’s ‘Uprock’ headsets offer a neat, lightweight, ergonomic fit that’s set to boost your street cred while providing extra comfort for your ears, even when you’re running.

RMB349.

AKG

Packing remarkable punch and clarity for their size,

AKG’s K430 are attractive, comfy and excellent soundwise. Dinky and foldable, they almost clamp to your earholes. Great, tiny performers.

RMB428.

// Find them all at Sundan, Shop 13, 1/F, Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang.

朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商场地铁层店铺号LG13 (8426 0462)

B&O

One for the lavish fashionista in all of us, this set by Bang &

Olufsen (Beo Play) is crafted in luxurious leather and makes a bold statement in terms of design. The perfect match if you refuse to compromise quality in sound, design or craftsmanship. RMB3,500.

Made in China

A curious zoo

New season, new handbag.

And because picking one is like choosing a partner, we’d recommend you go for something fun, whimsically charming and humorous. A tip? Stephany

Zoo’s animal-shaped clutches.

When a friend, pondering over her last name, asked her “if you had a ‘Curious Zoo’ what would be in it?” the young creative and animal-lover thought of a unicorn, a dinosaur and an elephant. Shortly after, Zoo decided to turn her little fantasy menagerie into a concrete line of purses, and oh, boy, what a perfect little grouping they make.

Made from sturdy leather and metal, each clutch (rMB300) is wearable, absolutely adorable and sure to add a little something-something to any outfit without screaming excess or conspicuous opulence. Just like a good significant other should.

Planned for the coming months are also a porcupine and a puppy, as well as a scarf collection produced by the Women’s

Foundation of Nepal that promises to be as distinctive as these bags.

// curiouszoo.com/shop

16

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

Lifelines [email protected]

“The breast milk soap is very good! I am using it now! My skin used to peel during winter, but not anymore! It's very moisturizing and comfortable for face wash! [sic]”

// An overly enthusiastic Taobao shopper on the ‘magic,’ beautifying properties of breast-milk soap (muruzao), currently one of the hottest whitening products sold on the Chinese e-commerce site. Although praised by thousands of consumers online, the safety and effectiveness of the soap are still very much open to question.

head to head

China Flowers 214 vs Beijing Flowers: the freshest online florists

China Flowers 214

What: One of the leading network florists in China.

Company message: “It’s a wonderful thing to make someone smile. Flowers are not only a nice idea but also a way of creating and sharing happiness. We enjoy as much as you do the moment when your friend or loved one smiles when receiving flowers.”

Oh, you sweeties.

Website look: Internet Explorer circa 1999.

In stock: Plants, flowers, cakes, flower baskets and hampers, each named something poetic like ‘Warm Birthday,’ ‘Tender Like Water’ or

‘Impress.’

Price range: From RMB145 for a simple bouquet to a whopping RMB14,370 for 999 red roses – the best way to seduce your lurver.

Delivery time: Same day, within three hours from placing an order, which is pretty fast in our book. Exceptions may be made for ‘Severe

Weather and Other Acts of God,’ their delivery info page tells us.

Delivery area: Everywhere in Beijing

// www.chinaflower214.com

Beijing Flowers

What: Online florist servicing Beijing since

2000. Which, for our city, is tantamount to having been around forever.

Company message: “We are very thankful and lucky that our business has experienced continual success and fast and steady growth since starting our business in 2000.

We believe it is due to our business ethics as we put customers first and are happy to be in the business of making people happy.” Say ‘business’ one more time.

Website look: Internet Explorer circa

1994.

On stock: Flowers, singing telegrams, teddy bears and hampers. Fruit baskets, candies and wine. Oh, and Godiva chocolates and Häagen-Dazs cakes…

Price range: Flowers go from RMB124 for one rose to RMB14,901 for 999 roses.

Teddy Bears start at RMB25.

Delivery time: Same day, with a flat fee of

RMB36 on all orders.

Delivery area: Everywhere in Beijing

// www.beijing-flowers.com

The winner: the two services don't differ that much really, but we're going to give this one to China Flowers 214, just on the names it gives to its products – who can resist a cake called ‘Strong Feelings’? Or a ‘Truth Long Time’ bouquet? Or a ‘Mysterious Castle’ brownie?

COVET

In the bag

rugged, sturdy and super laidback, backpacks are no longer the daggy fashion faux-pas of your school days. Oh no: they’re the new It bag, the handsfree carryall of choice to dash around town in style while accidentally whacking poor passersby as you blithely move about buses, pavements or any other public area. Our favorite? this number by the thing – too cool for school, it’s perfect to get ahead of the trend. rMB558.60.

// thethingtq.tmall.com

Looking bright

let’s face it: winter isn’t going away anytime soon. So man up and ditch that sad-looking face: just because the world looks miserable out there, it doesn’t mean you should.

Marimekko’s umbrella is a safe remedy to chase the doldrums away – bold and cheerful, it’ll make any gloomy day more bearable.

Maybe. rMB180.

//Taikoo Li Sanlitun South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang

朝阳区三里屯路19号,太古里三里屯南区S8-10D

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

17

LifE&STYLE

fasHion

DreSSeD TO Chill

SlOUChy lOUNGEWEAr WOrth StAyING IN FOr

BY Marianna Cerini

With the ever-present threat of a polar vortex hanging over us, leaving the house to brave the bracing cold is getting harder every day. Yup, loungewear is set to become your fashion uniform until the icy apocalypse is over. so relax, sit back and put your feet up. it’s time to wrap up and stay stylishly toasty in the coziest of bed socks and the softest of woolen wraps – just follow our guide to the best home garbs for this season’s cold snap.

oysho slippers, RMB139.

// daily 10am-10pm, SM-33,

1/F, Solana Mall, 6 Chaoyang

Gongyuan lu, Chaoyang (5905

6830, www.oysho.com)

H&M hat,

RMB99.

// daily 10am-

10pm, (8409 4199, www.hm.com) h&M, rMB299.

Topshop silk kimono, RMB580.

// www.topshop.com

18

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

Gap sweater,

RMB249.

// daily 10am-

10pm, (8426 0386 www.gap.cn)

Pull & Bear socks,

RMB25.

// daily 10am-10pm,

(5905 6940, www.

pullandbear.com)

H&M jersey pajamas,

RMB229.

// daily 10am-10pm, (8409

4199, www.hm.com)

almond Rocks socks, RMB28.

// www.nuandao.com

Hugo Boss hoody,

RMB519 and asos sweatpants,

RMB231.

// www.asos.com

Uniqlo lounge pants, RMB99.

// daily 10am-10pm, (6413

1320, www.uniqlo.cn)

Zara Men’s trousers, RMB229.

// daily 10am-10pm,

(6587 1341/49, www.

zara.cn)

Uniqlo T-shirt,

RMB39.

// daily 10am-10pm,

(6413 1320, www.

uniqlo.cn)

shokay throw,

RMB2,410.

// shokay.tmall.com

David

Beckham for H&M bodywear,

RMB249.

// (8409 4199, www.hm.com)

Topman onesie,

RMB200.

// www.topman.com

Muji slippers,

RMB150.

// daily 10am-

10pm, (5971 6248)

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

19

LifE&STYLE

fasHion

ArriVAlS

By Marianna Cerini

What’s new on the scene

NEEMIC

Undoubtedly one of our favorite ‘Made in

China’ labels, Beijing-based eco-sustainable brand Neemic never fails to hit the right spot with its collections. Its latest one is called

Cocoon, and it’s, simply put, a beautiful sample of sartorial skillfulness and craftsmanship.

Blending the company’s minimalist design aesthetics with eco-friendly, hand-made natural fabrics, a line of sleek coats, separates, denim and dresses reveals clean cuts in subdued, earthy tones – a perfect mix of simple comfort and soothing colors. In typical Neemic style, feminine and boyish references abound across the collection, with silky skirts, ultra light layers and delicate knits juxtaposed with boxy fleece sweaters in organic cotton, boyfriend coats and oversized jumpers. Attention to detail shines throughout, from upcycled leather elements to understated prints sprayed on a casual jacket. A real bastion for fashion, beauty and sustainable living, this is a brand worth plenty of attention. rMB1,438-4,420.

// neemic.asia

Porter International

those looking for a brand new bag – or two – to get carried into the new year, might want to check out newly opened Porter International. the taiwanese label, which, since launching in

2001, has expanded its brick-and-mortar presence in the US, Europe and most of Asia, now arrives in taikoo li Sanlitun South. But be warned: this is not a place for fashion braggers, so if an It bag is what you’re after, you’ll be disappointed.

If, on the other hand, you yearn for a little modesty and a bag that’ll take you a long way, walk right in. the shop is a haven of carriers, totes and briefcases that combine understated design and solid materials with high functionality – all a bag should offer, really.

Prices range from rMB750-

2,000.

// S6-21B, Taikoo Li Sanlitun South, 19

Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里

屯路19号太古里三里屯南区

(6413 2168)

Phot os by Noemi Cassanelli

Q Apartment

From the trend-led thrift of trash ’n’ diamonds to newly opened retro gem Q Apartment, Shuangjing’s

Pingod is fast becoming home to a rather interesting vintage scene. A well-presented, well-stocked, intimate little shop – literally a living room-turned-boutique

– this latest addition to the artsy compound is the personal project of former stylist Shao Qing, who has lovingly sourced each and every item during her many trips to the States, France and

Italy. Choice vintage garb from different decades – spanning the 1930s, 50s and 90s – includes some exquisite pieces, shoes and accessories, and features both brand-less vintage threads and designer wares. Quality over quantity is the name of the game, and with prices ranging from rMB700 to rMB15,000, it’s unlikely you’ll walk out arms heaving, but what you do purchase will be the very best, and for that, this new boutique deserves a visit.

// 2606, Bldg 6B, Pingod, 32 Baiziwan Lu,

Chaoyang 朝阳区百子湾路32号苹果社区6B

楼2606(186 1033 0793) o by Noemi Cassanelli

Phot

Cheap Monday

Although carried by a few, selected shops around town, Cheap Monday – that brand with the signature skull logo you may have seen in Urban

Outfitters back home or on some very hipster types in Gulou – had never had a proper retail presence in Beijing. Or at least that was the case until a few weeks ago. to the delight of young indie-style aficionados, the label has finally opened its very first standalone store in Xidan’s Joy City – a clear effort to establish a stronger position within the high-street market. hailing from Sweden,

Cheap Monday is best known for its denim range – the company first launched its super-stretch, skinny fit ‘tight’ jean in 2004 – but has, over the years, become a much-coveted name for its edgy separates and directional footwear (read: ultra-hipster clothes).

// Joy City, 131 Xidan

Beidajie Chaoyang 朝

阳区西单北大街131号大悦城 (6651 7777)

20

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

LifE&STYLE

PoRTRaiT of cHina main belief is?

Money is king and people why relationships are so hard. You just have to look after what is most precious to you.

thing in your life?

My four-year-old daughter.

// Chengdu native Ms he. She sells

Sichuan-style noodles at a stall on

Nanluoguxiang, and wants her shop to be the most popular on the street.

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

21

LifE&STYLE

LEaD

FAKiNG iT

thE ChINESE BrANdS PrEtENdING tO BE FOrEIGN

By Marianna Cerini

W alk into any midrange local shopping mall in China and you’ll be bombarded with a slew of foreign-sounding brands offering heaps of easy, quick fashion choices: from daywear and accessories (hello Giordano and twice) to beauty products

(Sasa) to wigs (don’t tell us you’ve never visited rebecca). yet despite the blue-eyed models and Western-sounding names, fewer than 20 percent of “foreign” high-street brands on sale in China are genuine imports – the majority are merely registered abroad.

Notwithstanding the mesmerizing attraction of store names such as ‘Wolf Zone’, the real reason indigenous shops opt for foreign disguises isn’t only to seem cool. For many companies, a ‘foreign-made’ tag brings competitive and economic advantages. Among consumers, Western brands are often considered, point-blank, to offer better quality and a higher level of prestige – attributes that allow such brands to retail for a significantly higher price.

Among all the fake Western tat and goofy branding attempts, there are several labels tearing up the form book, striving to make a valid (albeit funnysounding) name for themselves. their tags might be a little off, but what they offer isn’t your usual schlock.

22

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

The name:

transliterated from the

Chinese oushili, which stands for

‘European fashion charm,’ Ochirly, means nothing. It’s supposed to inspire elegance and modern style

(so its website tells us) and it does sounds like a pretty, cutesy word to us, but also – mostly – like a misspelling of orchid.

What’s the story:

Founded in 1999,

Ochirly belongs to lifestyle and fashion company trendy International

Group. targeting middle class young women in their mid- to latetwenties, it has about 200 retail outlets (h&M counts just over 130) and almost 600 franchises across

China. today, it is valued at USd2 billion and is considering listing on the hong Kong and New york stock exchange.

In 2012, l Capital Asia, a private

-equity fund financed by French luxury giant lVMh hennessy louis

Vuitton SA bought nearly a ten percent stake – equal to about USd200 million – in the Chinese casual wear brand, a move that allowed the high-end megacorporation to break into China’s fashion industry and Ochirly to boost its reputation among industry professionals. Not bad for a brand whose aim is that of

“occupying the mind of fashionable people and becoming a staple in their style vocabulary.”

on offer:

Easy, contemporary styles similar to Mango or Zara, with mini collections following different themes each season – right now it’s retro Glamour, Gothic Spirit and Snow Spirit – which is a clever ploy. While some items still very much miss the mark and pastels, lace and frills tend to be splattered on a lot of pieces for no real style reason, there’s definitely a sense of what’s aesthetically pleasing when it comes to design.

Glossing up:

Since its first billboard campaign in 2011, Ochirly has mainly used foreign models for its slick, airbrushed ads, always shooting in international locations such as Saint-tropez, rio de Janeiro or london – no doubt a clever move to entice those Chinese customers craving ‘Western lifestyles.’ For its

2013/2014 campaign the brand has gone all out and booked no less than models of the moment

Miranda Kerr, Cara delevingne and lindsey Wixson to sport its wares, as well as fashion photographer

Mario testino to capture them. that lVMh investment is definitely paying off.

The name:

In Chinese,

JNBy stands for

Jiangnan

Buyi, meaning

‘clothing from the southern yangtze river delta.’ In

English, that got translated into Just

Naturally

Be yourself, which, admittedly, sounds like a pretty

Chinglish name. Or a motto by one of those hippie lifestyle gurus that seem to be springing up everywhere these days. We forgive them only because of their fashion-forward aesthetic.

What’s the story:

the priciest of our picks, JNBy was founded in

1994 in hangzhou by a group of

11 art and design students and spread rapidly throughout China over the course of the 1990s, fueled by its focus on innovative silhouettes, soft, organic fabrics and contemporary designs. It is mostly aimed at China’s upwardly mobile middle class, women between 25 and 35 who know what they like and are also seen shopping at COS.

Counting more than 600 stores across the Middle Kingdom, the brand has also expanded internationally, opening its first store outside China in Moscow in 2005 and subsequently in a number of other countries, including Japan, Spain,

Singapore, thailand and the

United States.

In 2005, the company launched a sister menswear brand, Croquis, which has quickly become one of the most covetable men’s labels on the high street. More recently, it also launched jnby by JNBy, which does children’s apparel. 

on offer:

Compared for its aesthetics to the likes of highend Comme des Garçons and yohji yamamoto, JNBy does multifunctional, structural designs and luxe casual wear

– spanning separates, dresses, accessories and plenty of layers

– working with natural materials such as hemp, wool, silk and ramie. Consistently interesting season after season, its collections are often inspired by architecture and feature subdued palettes along with splashes of electric color.

Runway talk:

With its eyes firmly set on the international market, JNBy made its Canadian debut at the World MasterCard

Fashion Week in toronto last

October. Presenting looks that were both wearable and alluring, the label marched out models donning adaptable separates and simple, beautiful garments featuring frayed hemlines and exposed seams, for a line that received plenty of praise from fashion critics and professionals alike.

The name:

Metersbonwe means nothing in English or Chinese: even its characters, combined together, have no real significance whatsoever. that’s perhaps why most local consumers are convinced it’s a

European brand – few other words sound as unpronounceable and exotic.

What’s the story:

A downmarket version of Gap and Uniqlo,

Metersbonwe is wildly popular among teenagers and college students. launched in 1995 by tailorturned-billionaire Zhou Chengjian, it was the first garment company in China to adopt the international practice of outsourcing all manufacturing and, over the years, has become the country’s most prolific fast fashion brand, counting around 4,000 outlets across first-, second- and third- tier cities: basically as omnipresent in the Middle Kingdom as

Gap is in America.

In 2011, branding agency

Millward Brown Optimor ranked Metersbonwe tenth in the world for

“brand momentum,” and, two years ago, the retailer appeared as the third largest apparel brand by sales in

China behind Nike and

Anta. the company also has global expansion plans aplenty, as Zhou is determined to push into the fashion markets of london, Paris, New york and Milan.

on offer:

youthful and inexpensive designs for men, women and kids, spanning t-shirts, jeans and understated daywear pieces that are relaxed and comfortable, each with its own range and name:

MtEE for t-shirts, Mjeans for denim and MPolar for winter apparel.

Just to make this whole naming thing easier. to advertise its collections, Metersbonwe has roped in taiwanese star Jay Chou, who’s been the face of the brand since

2003.

Random fact:

the company owns a private museum, the

Metersbonwe Costume

Museum, on the fifth floor of its Nanjing dong lu flagship store in Shanghai. It displays a captivating collection of ancient and ethnic garments and accessories, from traditional attires dating back to the Qing dynasty to qipaos and delicate embroideries from China’s southwestern regions.

The name:

this is just grammatically annoying. A city is not a person. Can someone please add a ‘the’ there? Also, it reminds us of Sex & the City

(see? the city), which is even more irritating – especially since we actually like what this brand offers.

What’s the story:

Owned by

Metersbonwe, this upscale offshoot targets middle class, twenty- to thirty-something white collar professionals – a segment of the market still greatly underrepresented in China’s retail sector. Self-proclaimed as China’s only premium fast-fashion brand, it debuted in 2008 and has opened more than 85 locations throughout the country.

Although the brand hasn’t yet managed to woo shoppers in larger metropolises – where savvier consumers still prefer the similarly priced Zara or

Esprit – it has outdone its international rivals in secondary markets, often setting up shop in smaller cities well before the big international chains.

on offer:

Grown-up looks for men and women, good-quality fabrics and sartorially clever pieces that feel modern and interesting. though still not as fashion-forward as its international counterparts,

Me&City’s contemporary aesthetic makes it one of the most attractive fast-fashion labels in

China today.

celeb love:

Since its launch,

Me&City has engaged in some seriously high-end advertising, signing celebrities such as Wentworth Miller, Orlando

Bloom, Agyness deyn and Alexa

Chung for its campaigns. that, and its foreign-sounding name, probably account for a lot of the brand’s success in less developed markets across China, where the label gets easily mistaken for a foreign brand. Still, its designs are valid competitors to h&M.

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

23

LifE&STYLE

TRavEL

DiVerSe DUBAi

FrOM SEVEN-StAr tENNIS tO SKIING IN thE dESErt

BY TOM KELLY

i t’s the middle of the desert. the temperature outside is over 40 degrees. And we’re wrapped in thick jackets, scarves and gloves about to launch ourselves down a ski slope.

For a place that boasts the world’s tallest building, the world’s only seven-star hotel and the world’s largest shopping mall, generating

22,500 square meters of snow in searing heat for an indoor ski center is to be expected.

In dubai it truly feels like anything is possible.

The Burj Khalifa and (above) its helipad-turned-tennis court citywide sales, street fairs with food stalls and nightly fireworks all help you spend your money.

A popular place for retail therapy at all times of the year is the Mall of dubai – you guessed it, the world’s largest – which packs in 1,200 shops, as well as an aquarium and ice rink. Across town, the sumptuous Mall of the Emirates is loved for its wide avenues, polished marble floors and skylight, as well as its chic boutiques, designer shops and department stores, including a harvey Nichols.

One of the few cities where the skyline rivals New york, a good place to start a visit is at the 828-meter-tall

Burj Khalifa tower.

Not only is it the largest free standing structure on the globe, it also has the highest number of stories

(160), the highest outdoor observation deck and the world’s longest elevator to carry you to it – at a stomach-turning 10 meters per second.

From the top, the 360-degree views take in the bustling city and surrounding desert on one side and sea stretching out on from the other direction. Venturing up the tower by night offers glorious view of the stars as they battle for attention with the dazzling lights of downtown dubai far, far below.

Back on the ground, it’s worth visiting another record-breaking attraction, the dubai Fountain. At 275 meters long and with jets that shoot

83,000 liters of water more than 150 meters in the air at any one time, it is the largest dancing fountain on the planet. Choreographed to music and with the rays from thousands of lights refracting off the water, the shows are a remarkable sight, running every 30 minutes each evening.

As impressive as the Burj Khalifa is dubai’s flagship creation is the Burj al-Arab – a 321-meter sail-shaped structure built on an artificial island jutting out of the mainland. the favorite dubai lodgings of England footballer Wayne rooney and his wife, Colleen, double rooms start from rMB10,000, while the royal

Suite will set you back the princely sum of rMB120,000 a night.

At the Burj al-

Arab guests are provided with a

24-carat plated iPad for the duration of their stay

In what is referred to as “the world’s only seven-star hotel,” guests are provided with a 24-carat plated iPad for the duration of their stay, and can also dine at the underwater aquarium restaurant and, ask very nicely, and they might let you play on the helipad-turned-tennis court – the world’s highest spot for a knock-up.

those planning to peek inside at the opulence enjoyed by the lucky guests must book in advance for afternoon tea or cocktails. Meal reservations need to be made a few days beforehand – and room bookings months ahead of arrival. Smart clothes are a must if entering the playground of the super-rich.

Amid the glittering skyscrapers and luxury modern hotels, there are some surviving pockets of old dubai giving a glimpse of how things might have been before it transformed from a poor pearling village to a thriving metropolis.

Bastakiya district maintains winding streets and windcatcher towers – an ingenious Persian design that kept buildings cool centuries before air conditioning was invented – as well as the Al Fahidi Fort, the oldest surviving building in dubai.

the dubai Museum also features a reconstructed souk – traditional market – including authentic sights and sounds to capture street life in the days before oil was discovered.

A few real life souks also survive around dubai, selling everything from traditional crafts to cheap tourist t-shirts.

Most shopping, however, is done in the numerous modern malls.

Shopping is such a popular pastime here that there is an annual festival dedicated to it each January, when

All the malls are air conditioned, which is vital because there is no getting around it, dubai is very hot.

In summer it averages 42 degrees

Celsius in the daytime – making even a short walk in the street almost unbearable – and 28 degrees at night. Even in winter it is hot

(and rains very rarely), with daytime highs of 25 degrees and nightime lows of 10 degrees.

Given the heat, many visitors spend their days on the long white sandy beaches, but be warned, taking a dip in the water often does little to cool you off as water temperatures can hit 37 degrees in summer.

For sports lovers, dubai has an eclectic range, including the tennis

Open, dubai rugby Sevens, World

Offshore Powerboat Championship and dubai traditional dhow Sailing race. horse racing fans will enjoy the Meydan racecourse and especially the dubai World Cup held on the last Saturday in March. those after something more exotic should visit the camel racing, held every thursday and Friday during the winter.

those brave enough – and who don’t suffer from car sickness – can take a trip out of town to the desert for extreme ‘dune bashing’ in jeeps or quad bikes.

And if you need to cool down after a day on the dunes, take a trip to the Ski dubai center back in the

Mall of the Emirates.

Sliding down the 400-meter run in sub-zero temperatures surrounded by French-style cafes and restaurants modeled on an Alpine resort, it’s almost possible to forget you are in dubai. Almost.

24

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

LifE&STYLE

HoTEL

Roland Steiner, General Manager of Crowne Plaza Beijing Sun Palace

T here are few countries roland Steiner, General

Manager of Crowne

Plaza Beijing Sun Palace, hasn’t worked in. “It’s difficult to remember them all!” he says with a laugh. “there must be at least

20!” having spent the best of 30 years in the industry, Steiner’s career has taken him from South

Africa to the United States and just about everywhere in between.

So how does working in China compare to working elsewhere in the world? “I’ve been here coming on for 20 years now,” he says. “China was a lot different back then. My very first job here [in China] was at the newly opened holiday Inn in Urumqi, in Xinjiang – it was the first foreign owned hotel of its kind to open there, so it was – as you can imagine – quite the experience!” Of course, today, Urumqi is the capital of a booming western economic hub, linking China to central Europe and beyond. “yes, but back in the

90s it was still very underdeveloped and living costs were very cheap.

For example, we could eat out at the very best restaurants and drink all the beer we wanted and still not spend more than rMB150!” he says. “Back then you could live like a king in a poor country, but today we foreigners are the poor people in a land of kings!”

So what is Steiner’s favorite country? “that has to be

Malaysia,” he says. “It’s where my wife is from, and where I consider to be home – well, it’s where we visit during vacation time at least. It’s also has a very warm and pleasant climate – not like Beijing! – it’s so extreme here, the winters, the summers, there’s never any normal weather!” So what about his native home –

Germany, does he ever miss it?

“No, it’s too cold!

Besides, it’s been so long since

I’ve actually lived there, it feels like a different life.”

But what about good quality

German food? “I actually prefer lighter tastes,” he says. “It’s one of the benefits of working at great hotels, you get to try all different local foods prepared by local chefs. German food is very meat heavy – all that pork knuckle, though I do sometimes eat it. I like variation. I think that’s important.”

Constant variation of course, can also come with its fair share of challenges. did Steiner ever find it hard to adapt to a new country? “Obviously some places are more difficult than others,” he says rather diplomatically. “But every country has it’s own set of challenges.” But if he had to name one? “I wouldn’t say I didn’t enjoy it – but working in

Nigeria was not always easy, at the time it was very unsafe, so we couldn’t really go out alone, and the workers were not all that cooperative – any excuse not to work!”

So, not like China then? “the complete opposite, Chinese staff are so incredibly hardworking and want to learn – always learning. It encourages me to stay sharp, otherwise they’d take my job too!”

//

Yunnan Dasha, Northeast Taiyanggong

Bridge, Chaoyang朝阳区东北三环西坝河太

阳宫桥东北角,云南大厦(64298888)

Beijing Bestsellers

Fiction

THE GREAT GATSBY

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DEAR LIFE STORIES

TO KILL A MOCKINGBIRD

RED SORGHUM

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PENGUIN DECADES: A CLOCKWORK ORANGE

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arts

collage

High Notes

Let’s get it on

FILM

Coming to a theater near you…

Roses are the Valentine’s Day equivalent of “duh.” Nothing says “I forgot” and

“24-hour supermarket” like chocolates.

There is no dignity in a stuffed bear.

But the gift of music is sophisticated, cultured and memorable – especially when it leads to sex. and if played right, the china Radio Traditional Music ensemble just may help you get some this year with a program celebrating a century of chinese love songs.

Beyond ‘The Butterfly lovers,’ china’s most-touted love tune, this program includes gems that harken to an early

20th-century Shanghai, Taiwan and a pop renaissance tragically cut short.

Listen for: ‘Meigui, Meigui, Wo Ai Ni’

(‘Rose, Rose, I Love You)

First recorded for the 1940 version of the film Singing Girl, this bouncy pentatonic tune was an international hit for vocalist Yao li. The song’s exotic melody and unassuming innocence caught the ear of american singer Frankie lane, who in 1951 recorded an english version for what was the first release by columbia Records. The song reached

Number 3 on the US Billboard charts, and to this day remains one of the highest-charting pop songs in the US by a chinese composer.

Listen for: ‘Wang Bu Liao’ (‘Love

Without End’)

This is pure aM radio gold. originally the theme of the celebrated 1961

Taiwanese film of the same name, this sultry jazz-inspired ballad originally sung by songstress gu Mei has become a repertoire standard – and rightfully so. Though notable versions include an overly-sweet one by Teresa Teng and a sultry cai Qin cover, none come close to Frances Yip (Ye liyi), who sings an english version in syrupy alto that rivals

Karen carpenter on her best day. JT

// RMB50-880, 7.30pm. Forbidden City

Concert Hall, Forbidden City Concert Hall,

Inside Zhongshan Park, Xichang’an Jie,

Xicheng District 中山公园音乐堂, 西城区

西长安街中山公园内 (6559 8285, www.

fcchbj.com )

2

/5

Frozen

The latest Disney hit has grossed over US$700 million worldwide, while inspiring universal acclaim. Based on Hans christian andersen’s The Snow Queen, the film follows a princess called anna (Kristen Bell) as she tries to find her sister elsa (Idina

Menzel), who has the power of creating ice and snow. as she runs away, she accidentally traps the kingdom in eternal winter. a mountain man, his pet reindeer and a snowman come along for a ride that’s been called Disney’s best since The Lion King.

No. 1 Dad

Zhang Yimou is one of china’s great filmmakers, but he’s been in the news lately for different reasons. Rumors had been swirling that the five-time golden globe award nominee has fathered seven children. Zhang finally came clean on camera to Xinhua admitting he had fathered three children. His alleged punishment for the septet was a record RMB7 million fine. Next film? Seven

Million Dollar Babies

2

/6

robocop

a reboot of the classic 1980s action series Robocop will finally be released. Joel Kinnaman (The

Killing) steps into the inconic role as police officer alex James

Murphy, who is transformed into the robotic crime fighter after an explosion injures him. Brazilian director José Padilha brings his expertise from previous series,

The Elite Squad movies. They are joined by a strong cast that includes oscar nominees gary oldman and Samuel l. Jackson, while Michael Keaton stars as the villainous ceo.

Weibo whine

Despite breaking records with his new comedy, Personal Tailor,

Feng Xiaogang made the news after posting several venomous posts on Weibo. With critics decrying the film as his worst, the director struck back, dismissing the haters as “cultural Nazis,” and chiding them for not understanding the movie he describes as a breakthrough in Mainland satire.

Last month’s box office

1. Despicable Me 2

2. Ender’s Game

3. Police Story 2013

4. Personal Tailor

5. As the Light Goes Out

6. Hello Babies

7. Up in the Wind

8. Metro

9. The Mortal

Instruments: City of

Bones

10. Legendary: Tomb of the Dragon

Source: MTime.com

Mario’s revenge

Nintendo’s stock surged

10.76 percent on the news a 14-year video game consoles ban in china had been overturned. Rivals Sony also experienced a slight rise in stocks. Under the new rules, foreign enterprises can even manufacture game consoles within Shanghai’s free trade zone, with worries over violent content and moral decay seemingly a thing of the past.

26

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

Edited by james tiscione [email protected]

You’ve Never read

Mao Zedong

What is the only book whose circulation can compete with The

Bible? It is, of course, Quotations

From Chairman Mao, also known as the Little Red Book. These days, sadly, much like the Word of god,

Mao’s popular text ain’t nearly as read as it used to be. But boy, did it use to be.

Publishing history began at the

1959 lushan conference, which saw Defense Minister and great leap Forward critic Peng Dehuai purged, and lin Biao ascend to the role of Mao’s heir apparent. lin preached that “Mao Zedong

Thought is the pinnacle of

Marxism-leninism” and a “shortcut to learning Marxism-leninism”.

Soon after began the mass fervor of learning and adopting Mao

Zedong Thought across china.

The first edition of Quotations was compiled by the Liberation Army

Daily, who picked 25 subjects and

267 sayings from Mao’s articles and speeches.

“once grasped by all common chinese people, Mao’s thought will be a powerful atomic bomb,” wrote lin in the book. The learning frenzy that would lead to

Mao’s personality cult thus began in the Pla, but soon spread to every household. over the next three years, books on Marxist-leninism made way for Mao to ensure “99 percent of chinese carefully study chairman Mao’s sayings.”

To make it convenient to learn them anytime, anyplace, the quotations were adapted to a size suitable for most pockets. By 1966, about 300 mainland publishers were printing the book, to ensure that every chinese had a copy to hand. To print more than 5 billion copies, it is estimated that 650,000 tons of paper was used, more than the total amount (593,400 tons) for all other books printed in china from 1950 to 1965. By early 1967,

Quotations had been published in

117 countries around the world, with an inscription for the international version by lin: “Proletariat around the world, unite.”

Sayings such as “Political power grows out of the barrel of a gun”, “Serve the People”,

“We must liberate Taiwan” and

“Women hold up half the sky” began to be quoted in newspapers around the world – back in china, they spread to books, stamps, trains, planes and military automobiles, even temples.

Before mealtimes, families would hold a small ceremony, facing

Mao’s image, holding the book over their heads and reciting together loudly “our reddest sun, our most respected great leader, chairman Mao, live forever, forever, forever!”

This zealous worship stopped abruptly with the downfall of the gang of Four in 1976. The propaganda department stopped publishing the Quotations, even describing it as a “noxious book that the ambitious lin Biao has used to acheive his political goals.”

Yet the book remains popular among the nostalgic, and pirate copies are readily available at tourist sites everywhere. late last year in December, a new edition of the text was published to commemorate the 120th anniversary of Mao’s birth.

chen Yu, chief editor and Pla academic researcher, says the forthcoming publication has no political motive. “The Party’s official comment on Mao will never change once the slogan ‘long live the unbeatable Mao Zedong

Thought’ is on Xinhua Men at

Zhongnanhai, and Mao’s photo still hangs in Tiananmen,” said chen. KK transcripted

1942 was my most elaborate project, yet it lost a great deal. While I did not devote that much to Personal Tailor, it has earned rMb400 million in one week.

Honestly, I am more than confused.”

Famed director

Feng Xiaogang reflects on the success of latest film

Personal Tailor.

Best known for his humorous New

Year’s celebration films, or hesui

pian, Feng has had mixed success breaking out of comedy. His last film, Return

to 1942, paired the weighty subject of the Henan famine with appearances from a pair of academy award-winning actors, and was supposed to be his breakthrough. Instead, it was his Waterloo, with poor reviews and a disappointing box office. Ironically, controversial

Feng found one fan of the film, winning an outstanding Director award at December’s Huabiao Film awards, the highest film prize awarded by the Ministry of culture.

On the shelves

Just out

READ

The Lienü Zhuan or Exemplary Women of Early China was compiled during the Han Dynasty around 18 Bc and served as the standard confucian textbook for female moral education for two millennia. anna Behnke Kinney translates the text that is made up of 125 biographies, ranging from women that resorted to self-mutilation to preserve ritual orthodoxies to outspoken women stepping in to correct erring rulers.

From the fall of the Qing Dynasty to the Nationalists’ victory, china was dominated by military strongmen. The Armies of

Warlord China, 1911-1928 covers a period where a remarkable 500 wars took place. The history of these warlord armies are covered in great detail with sections devoted to uniforms, aircrafts and awards of the armies (with over 600 rare photographs and illustrations included).

china’s growing influence as a superpower has been analyzed ad nauseum, but Prosperity in China provides a unique perspective. leading chinese scholars weigh in on the country’s remarkable growth, its international policies and responsibilities. The nation’s role in maintaining world peace is discussed, while in-depth analysis is provided on some of the challenges caused by the country’s rapid economic growth and global influence.

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

27

arts

UNdERgRoUNd

Godfather

of the Month

the drop

Beats, blops and breakz

BY alex taggart

B y the time you read this, the horror will have begun. Spring Festival will have transformed Beijing into a grim, frozen ghost town, the bleakness interrupted only by angry bursts of noise from cynical fireworks launched purely out of lethargic obligation. and all your friends will be in

Thailand.

Never is electronic music more appropriate than when seeking to escape the grind of a city at its worst. Step into that dark room and find a spot near the subwoofer – let the low frequencies ripple across your skin. Stare into space. Forget it all. or you could talk to people and have a good time. Whatevs. anyway, here’s the drop on this month’s best parties.

Spring Festival is traditionally downtime in the scene, but there’s actually a bunch of good stuff this year. First off, join the lao Beijing eDM heads at

Lantern for a party on chu Xi

(the Spring Festival equivalent of

New Year’s eve), January 30. It’s traditional to stay up all night for the celebrations, and bumping around til 7am is basically what we do at lantern every weekend. There’ll be techno, more techno, deeper techno, some house, probably harder techno, and free jiaozi.

By February 2, you’ll be in need of a little jazzy pick-me-up. Hit up Retrodance at dada (which has gigs the whole way through the festival, by the way), where the two jolliest DJs in town –

demone and Brass Funky Joker of Tangsuan Radio – will be playing a bunch of retro stuff all night. These guys tend to play old-school stuff that stays just the right side of cheesy, and occasionally throw down some rare vinyl action… jazz and funk and whatnot.

Ho HeY!

THe lUMINeeRS’ QUIeT SToRM

BY andrew Chin

W hile the record industry continues to adjust to the digital age, colorado indie-folk rockers

The lumineers can attest to the power of one song.

a video of their performance of ‘Ho

Hey’ in a small apartment caught the eyes of their future managers, who would help bankroll their 2012 self-titled album.

The sound of old America

Months after its official release, the song topped the Billboard Rock

Song charts for 14 weeks and charted in the top 10 in ten other countries, en route to over four million copies sold. For group frontman and co-songwriter Wesley Schultz, it was all a happy accident.

“We figured it would never work as a recorded song and would be a thing that happens live,” he says.

“I look at that song as our foot in the door, a sort of needle to get the whole album into people’s ears.”

Spurred on by the single’s success, the group’s debut peaked at

No. 2 on the Billboard charts, and

The lumineers garnered a pair of grammy nominations last year, including Best americana album.

It’s a sound that has attracted millions of fans hungry for a roots revival. The trend can also be seen in Beijing where the city’s wenqing or artistic young have flocked to urban folk artists like Song Donye, liu Dongming and Hao Yun.

Schultz offers his insight into the movement. “I do know that because of the popularity of hip-hop and more produced electronic music, people are refreshed by

28

Name: Sven Väth

godfather of:

Trance

Age:

49

Fact:

Dude played for like five hours straight last time he was in

Beijing. Respect.

after the madness is over, get back to dada on February 22 for madness of a different kind.

If you’ve ever woken up after a night at Dada with an inexplicable cassette tape in your pocket, don’t worry, you’re not in Back to the Future and you haven’t just had sex with your own mother (kind of a weird plotline for a children’s film,

I’ve always thought) – it’s those kooky 87FEI87 rascals again, the guys who give out tapes of their latest analogue synth-and-drummachine-driven funk tunes at their shows. good luck with playing them.

hearing and seeing a musician playing their instruments without amplification.”

Though the band arrives this month for its first Mainland shows, this is not Schultz’s first time on these shores.

“I actually spent three months basically cutting my teeth learning the craft of songwriting and trying to hone it in Hangzhou,” he explains.

“a buddy was at university there and said that it would be cheap if I could afford a plane ticket. I remember there being a strange violin-type instrument that people would play on the streets and ask folks for money. I am gonna try to get one of those.”

// Feb 11, 8pm, RMB200-260. Tango 3F 79

Hepingxi Jie, Dongcheng District. 糖果3层,

东城区和平里西街79号 (6428 2288)

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

MUSIc

3’S a cHaRM

THe laTeST ReleaSe FRoM caRSIcK caRS IS SIcKeR THaN eVeR

BY andrew Chin

I t’s been nearly nine years since indie-rock trio carsick cars pulled into the Beijing underground, and like any band that has made it this far, they've had their share of broken bones.

“I was pumped with adrenaline and didn't even feel it,” said frontman

Zhang Shouwang, who suffered a broken heel in November during

Shanghai's Midi Festival. 

Though Zhang has since performed for the past couple of months with a cast, the band hits the ground running with a long-awaited third release, 3 (Maybe Mars) on February

28 at Yugong Yishan.

“I wrote so many songs. We actually recorded too many, so we released the extra songs as an eP on christmas,” Zhang says.

Recorded over two weeks last april,

Zhang enlisted Spacemen 3’s Sonic

Boom (MgMT, Panda Bear) and

Hamish Kilgour of the influential New

Zealand indie-group The clean to help record and mix their first album in almost five years.

With help from new bassist He Fan (of

Maybe Mars labelmates Birdstriking) and drummer Sun Heting (Skip Skip

Ben Ben), Zhang notes that having a drummer that isn’t “learning on the

‘I’m really happy about that because we are the first Chinese band that didn’t know how to play our instruments’

job” has allowed the band to take more musical chances.

“It’s definitely the most melodic album

I’ve ever written, but half of it is also kind of experimental,” Zhang says.

“I’ve always been into simple pop songs like the Ramones. Musically, we found our sound as making pop songs with noisier guitar sounds.”

That experimentation, Zhang explains, lies in the instrumentation, where he plays guitar by hitting it on songs like

“Midnight Driver”. 

While Zhang has kept busy touring internationally and with other projects, including experimental solo act White

+, his band has not only influenced musicians at home, but in many ways was the first internationally visible face of chinese indie.

Formed in March 2005 while attending university, Zhang and current

Snapline members li Qing and li

Weisi together led the nascent ‘No

Beijing’ movement, inspired by the droning guitar of New York No Wave community of the 1970s that produced Sonic Youth.

The band eventually reached the ears of the legendary New York group, who later declared carsick cars their favorite chinese band and invited the band to open for them on their 2007 european tour.

“It was the first time we went abroad and they were our heroes,” Zhang says. “We learned so much about music and being a musician. They have a reputation of always helping young bands. They helped Nirvana and they helped a really unknown chinese band. If we get famous, then we should always try to help young people, too.”

Their 2007 debut, Panda Noise, was the first step toward that goal. Their song ‘Rock and Roll Hero’ has become a common staple for new Mainland bands to cover, while ‘Zhongnanhai’, named after the cigarette brand named after the official living quarters of the chinese leadership, became a

No Beijing anthem.

“I’m really happy about that because we are the first chinese band that didn’t know how to play our instruments,” Zhang says.

“For young kids, it’s important to see bands that don’t know how to play so well but have some interesting ideas that make them pick up a guitar and make some noise.”

Their 2009 follow-up, You Can Listen,

You Can Talk was accompanied by a

20-city national tour, a rarity for any chinese band, and something that

Zhang calls the most important experience of his life.

The tolls of touring led to an amiable split and Zhang kept the name alive as a touring act fine-tuning the lineup. They’re one of china’s most popular draws, headlining last year’s

DongDong International Music

Festival and the Strawberry Music

Festival in Beijing and Shanghai.

They’re also active internationally, playing major festivals like South by Southwest (SXSW) in Texas, all

Tomorrow’s Parties in london and the Primavera Festival in Barcelona.

They’ve embarked on tours across australia, South Korea and the United

Kingdom and will depart for a 19-city

North american tour in mid-March.

“Touring is part of being in a band,”

Zhang says. “The fun part of being a musician is you can travel to different places, play with different bands and see something that you’ve never experienced.”

While his broken foot scuttled their plans for a national tour last

December, the band plans to visit between 16 and 20 cities late spring.

That’s not to say his injury hasn’t yielded good things.

“Not a lot of songwriting, but it forced me to finally figure out these old complicated synthesizers I’ve had for a while that have been sitting around. I had nothing else to do.”

//RMB100 (RMB80 presale), Feb 28, 9pm.

 

Yugongyishan (see listings for details).

29

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

arts

BooKS

IT’S TIMe To Re-eValUaTe cIXI – BUT To WHaT eXTeNT?

BY Jeremiah Jenne

I t’s a remarkable story.  In 1851, a year into his reign, a 15-yearold girl enters the palace as a consort of the young Xianfeng emperor. She rises slowly through the ranks of imperial concubines, before taking the fast-track approach of bearing the emperor a male heir.  When the emperor, a notorious drunk of generally poor health, dies nine years later, she parlays her position as mother to the heir apparent into a regency that leaves her the de facto ruler of the Qing empire for nearly five decades.

Décadence Mandchoue and subject of Hugh Trevor-Roper’s pitiless biography Hermit of

Peking – is partially to blame.

In the dying years of the Qing empire, Backhouse lurked down the backstreets and male brothels of Peking’s notorious Badlands. a brilliant linguist, and even better fabulist, he peddled his ‘connections’ with the court (particularly, an extremely intimate — but entirely fictional — liaison with cixi herself) to journalists and scholars. 

So why has history been so unkind to the empress Dowager cixi? 

The first problem, of course, was that she was born a woman.

Historians in china have long viewed women in power as, at best, an aberration from the norm and, at worst, as disaster for the empire. Wu Zetian, the only female in history to sit on the Dragon Throne has been the subject of rumors about her unquenchable thirst for power and more salacious appetites ever since. 

These graphic descriptions of the empress’s court often bordered on the pornographic – such as an imagined claim to clitoral sodomy, memorably described by geremie

Barme in The Forbidden City as

“a role reversal of the trope of prostrate 19th-century china being penetrated by the Western powers.” But they easily satisfied

Backhouse’s listeners – and their readers – eager to confirm their most prurient fears and titillations about what went on behind the

Forbidden city walls.

like empress Wu, powerful chinese women from ‘Madame

Mao’ Jiang Qing to gu Kailai are routinely portrayed as power-hungry, sexually aggressive, irrational, and invariably evil (Jiang committed suicide in prison, while gu is currently serving a suspended death sentence; her own husband

Bo Xilai dismissed her as “insane” during his trial). Such characterizations find easy purchase in

Western writing of china, fitting neatly into hoary old orientalist tropes about the fearsome and exotic ‘Dragon lady.’   according to popular stories and apocryphal palace gossip, cixi not only used arcane sexual techniques on the emperor so that she might bear his son, but later poisoned her own child lest he grow to maturity and usurp her power as imperial regent.

She is also accused of ordering the murders of her son’s wife the empress, her unborn grandchild, her co-regent the empress Dowager ci’an, her nephew (whom she made emperor after the death of the ill-fated Tongzhi emperor), her nephew’s favorite concubine, and scores of other courtiers, eunuchs and officials who had the temerity to defy her. Indeed, if the myths and legends are to be believed, it would appear only smallpox had a higher body count in the 19th century than the empress Dowager.

given her long and turbulent reign, and its disastrous coda, it is unsurprising therefore that cixi has come to represent the apogee of the archetype.

British charlatan Sir edmund

Trelawny Backhouse – unreliable author of the salacious memoir

Since 1949, though, chinese historians have prudishly avoided dwelling on cixi’s sex life – but only because they were busy blaming her for the demise of the

Qing, the imperial system, and civilization in general. cixi was the greedy monarch who spent naval funds on a marble boat, rather than an army to defend the country from rapacious foreigners. 

Her stubborn and ignorant archconservatism doomed the empire and stifled any attempts at reform, it has long been claimed.

even today, many chinese consider her the embodiment of all that was wrong with a humiliating and dark era in their history.

In recent years, however, cixi has enjoyed

30

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

the partial rehabilitation that only progressive politics can provide.

Sterling Seagrave’s 1993 biography

Dragon Lady was – despite its title

– one of the earliest attempts to rescue cixi from historical ignominy at the hands of Backhouse.

The 2004 chinese miniseries Marching to the Republic, meanwhile, portrayed her as a woman of great power and ability, if perhaps still too conservative and ruthless to save the Manchu empire. But it is the British-based

Jung chang’s recently published biography Empress Cixi: The

Concubine Who Launched Modern

China (see ‘Regal Reformer?,’ right) that goes the furthest, casting cixi as a frustrated reformer whose leadership was thwarted – and her reputation besmirched – by the small and petty men that she relied upon to carry out her orders.  

Undoubtedly, the real cixi lies somewhere in between: neither

Dragon lady nor the proto-feminist of chang’s imagination. and the greatest challenge for historians is that cixi left relatively few written records of her own.  

The sensible money sees cixi simply as a successful player of her own courtly times – less a Dragon lady, more a Michael corleone. 

She was smart, ruthless, and politically astute; it’s clear that she was not averse to ordering the death of an opponent. But she was hardly the serial murderess of some earlier accounts.   at the same time, like Michael in The Godfather Part II, she saw accumulation of power as a way to save the family, but became so obsessed with it that she ultimately destroyed all she held dear. 

In the end, cixi was unable to let go of minor grievances or to allow for the kinds of reforms needed to preserve her line. cixi feared that even the slightest showing of weakness would be her undoing and the overthrow of the imperial line – in the end, ironically, it would prove just the opposite.  after stripping away over a century of gossip and hearsay, we have left a woman of great power and ability. Perhaps not a highly educated one, but a woman with a keen ability to understand, and to use people for her own designs. 

For better or ill, she was the gravitational center of the Qing empire during its darkest days. 

But if we can credit cixi with holding the center together for as long as she did, it is also fair to blame her for not preparing for the future adequately. even the most wishful feminist thinking cannot avoid cixi’s most glaring failure: making decisions that made sense in the short term but ultimately undermined the very foundations of Qing rule.

// Jeremiah Jenne is the director of the IES Abroad

Beijing Center, where he teaches Chinese history and philosophy, and author of the blog ‘Jottings from the Granite Studio’

BY Maura elizabeth Cunningham

empress Dowager cixi and

Mao’s widow, Jiang Qing, stand as the two most-reviled women of modern chinese history. For decades, both chinese and foreigners alike have regarded them as Dragon ladies: scheming, power-hungry and totally indifferent to the chaos that their plotting caused among the people.

It’s difficult to imagine that anyone will come forward to defend Jiang, but you never know — before Jung chang’s new biography of cixi, few were speaking on her behalf, either. Empress Dowager Cixi:

The Concubine Who Launched

Modern China makes a case for viewing cixi not as a conservative reactionary, standing in the way of development, but rather as a far-sighted progressive whose modernization program has been buried by her enemies. cixi, originally a lowranking concubine of emperor

Xianfeng, managed to seize power in her son’s name after the emperor’s death in 1861, and maintain control of it for most of the time between then and her death in 1908.

The Qing collapsed in 1912, an event generally blamed on corrupt mismanagement of the empire. But chang has mined historical archives to find another side of cixi’s story, one that shows her standing up to court conservatives and trying to build china’s navy, railroads, telegraph lines and international profile in the face of heavy opposition. Far from resisting change, chang argues, cixi understood that china needed it to survive in the modern world.

In her attempt to rehabilitate cixi, however, chang goes a few steps too far. She downplays the empress Dowager’s ruthlessness, excusing the fact that cixi ordered the murder of her adopted son, emperor guangxu, by explaining that he had planned to assassinate cixi first. chang similarly minimizes the decision to restore the new

Summer Palace with funds skimmed from the Treasury by pointing out that her plan was to take “only” a small percent of interest income (a la

Office Space). cixi certainly deserves another look, and chang’s book will likely spark a new round of scholarship. But, in the end, chang works so hard to defend cixi that she seems blind to the empress Dowager’s failings.

Perhaps the relevant historical parallel is not between cixi and

Jiang, but cixi and Mao (subject of chang’s co-written 2005 biography, Mao: The Unknown

Story). When we examine cixi’s accomplishments and misdeeds, maybe we’ll also find that she was 70 percent good and 30 percent bad.

// Maura Elizabeth Cunningham is a historian and writer based in Shanghai. Follow her on

Twitter @mauracunningham

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

31

arts

ARTS

NOT FA

DE

AWAY

MICK JAGG

ROCK’N’ROLL

LEGACY

BY ned kelly

Where d frontma mischie

Richard o you sta n of the R survived vous rum the bed

drug bu s for con rt with a l post, pla yet still m known f olling St sts, dea ors abou trol of t anaged a k egend l he band a ike Mick J ts from t t Mars b yed the o utlaw b t Sir Mic ver 50 y ars, riva nd don J k was o led guita oth in re d from t ears, he

’s rist Keit uan for n al life an onic n. It is a l nce Emp

to see

the Rol ets ling Ston

on p80

nd h otches o ittle eror of c n hina.

es

“Where did you find that?!

That’s a funny one,” laughs

Jagger, when asked about his 1983 turn as emperor of all cathay in Hans christian andersen’s The Nightingale, from children’s television anthology series Faerie Tale Theatre.

“Shelly Duvall was producing this whole series and getting all her mates to do parts in them, and she talked me into doing that one, which was a very odd one. Was that in the 80s?” he asks. “I vaguely remember it. and she sent me a very nice painting of my part in it, which is very peculiar which I’ve got on my wall somewhere.”

The role would seem to suit him

– two of Jagger’s major interests away from music are film and history. His production company

Jagged Films’ first release was

Enigma, a fictionalized account of the Bletchley Park codebreak-

ers in WWII, for which he was able to provide access to his own enigma machine. But by his own admission, he’s not so hot on the Sinosphere.

“I’m a bit of a history buff, but that’s not really my period or my place,” the 70-year-old admits.

“It is not that I am not a fan, but

I’m not very knowledgeable. It is so long and complex. I dip in and out occasionally, to different periods, but I wouldn’t consider myself an expert.” looking at the history of china in his own lifetime though, when the Stones first exploded onto the scene in the 1960s the country was in a period of international isolation and internal chaos. In those days, Jagger never imagines that they would one day play here.

“No. I mean there was no way that you thought that would ever happen,” he says. So when did they first start considering the possibility? “Was it Wham! that was the first band that played in china? When they played I thought, ‘You never know,’ you know? Stranger things have happened. and it did in the end.” after being cancelled once in

2003 due to the SaRS scare, the

Stones finally made their maiden, and until now only mainland performance in Shanghai in

2006, as part of the a Bigger

Bang tour. and in true rock’n’roll tradition, Sir Mick doesn’t seem to remember too much about it.

“Testing my memory… um… it was nice. It was kind of slightly odd because of never having played there not knowing what to expect, you know? It was a good gig. a few friends of mine were there. It was a laugh. We had a guest and everything.”

That guest was cui Jian, ‘The

Father of chinese Rock’ (see china learns to Rock in Yaogun

101, p62), who joined the

Stones on stage to perform

‘Wild Horses.’ So how had they heard about him?

“I can’t remember! Someone kind of introduced him, and he was very keen on playing,” says Jagger. “It was a kind of moment. It was my favorite moment of the concert, actually. It was a strange guest, but it worked out, it was very fun. and I can’t remember how I met him. He’s got a strange history really, all in all, going back in the world of chinese rock and pop music.” on the subject of memory lapses, stage fright appeared to get the better of cui, and Jagger had to jump in to help him with the lyrics.

“We did a rehearsal – that went alright! But you know, doing guests is always a bit… we did a lot of guests on the last tour.

Sometimes it works out fantastic and sometimes it tends to be a

The Emperor of all Cathay

“Yeah. I mean that is really… flattering, if you want. That you figure in the history book of it.

The odd thing is that rock’n’roll has evolved its own canon. In the way that, say, white novelists have, or english poets.

“I always compare it to jazz,”

Jagger continues, “because jazz was the downtrodden music of a minority group. and it was considered a kind of ‘here today, gone tomorrow’ kind of thing.

In the 20s jazz was just a fad.”

The same, he says, was true of rock’n’roll in the 1950s.

“It was dance music, it was a fad, it was for young people – no one thought much about it.

‘Rock’n’roll was considered a bad infIuence in America because it was, they thought, the music of black people’

bit odd, but it’s always fun.” So will they have guests this time round?

“I don’t know. I’m up for suggestions!” We’ll put the word out to the readers then? “Yeah definitely,” Jagger laughs. “I’m available.” given that the Stones couldn’t conceive of playing china for so many decades, they were surprised to find out about the reach of their music and how much of an influence they had been on the likes of individuals like cui Jian and the nation’s nascent rock scene as a whole.

Avin’ a laugh with Keef

A fresh-faced young Mick even though there were some very clever musicians, they weren’t really recognized at the time.

“Then as it evolved, it became a lot more sophisticated, with different styles. and then what makes it into this canon thing is the music critics of various stripes. and it wasn’t really until the 60s before that started happening.

“and I’m not necessarily saying that’s a good thing – it’s an ephemeral kind of thing. But you know, people started analyzing and stratifying. and then eventually, like jazz, a whole critical knowledge was acquired of it.”

It was not something a young

Jagger anticipated – or even considered – when rock’n’roll first reached his ears as a teenager growing up in london.

“You never thought that would happen. You never see that coming when little Richard made a record when I was 14 and I would dance to it – and I still would if it came on.

“In those days in the 50s you never thought that it would evolve into this historical thing with criticism and appreciation and so on. The idea that these people influenced these people, and studying it in school, learning this song and that song – that was sort of unimaginable really.”

Yet happen it did, and it is well documented that the Stones

DNa runs through chinese rock. and just as with the Stones some 30-40 years earlier, early chinese rockers and their music were met with suspicion by authorities and the establishment.

“Well it was suspected in america when it came out,” says

Jagger. “Rock’n’roll and all these early songs were criticized. The mayor of some small town in america would ban it. It was seriously criticized. and then you had riots in the early days and people thought it was generally a bad influence.”

So what does this old sympathizer with the devil think of

Satan’s music – is rock’n’roll a bad influence?

Jagger laughs, but quickly makes a serious point. “It was a bad influence in america mainly because it was, they thought, the music of black people. and they didn’t – in the days of elvis and so on – they didn’t want their children to be influenced by this kind of music.

“Well that’s obviously bollocks,”

Jagger asserts. “Because the parents themselves had been dancing to jazz and so on, which is the same argument.

But rock’n’roll was not seen as a benign thing.” and the opposition was not limited to the early days. or to america.

“It was repeated. Spain, for instance, banned rock’n’roll in the Franco era. It had this representation of Western decadence and rebellion, I suppose. and on both sides of the political spectrum. In eastern europe it was banned a lot during the communist time. and of course in various asian countries, china

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arts

ARTS

in particular. So it had this relic of… a sort of an anachronistic rebellion.”

Jagger not only sees the music as a force for good, but believes the rock’n’roll revolution to be all but won.

“cultural boundaries should be always open and I think that has been proved over and over. and anyway what I’m talking is just nonsense these days.

That’s been broken years ago –

20 years ago or more as far as most countries are concerned.

Nearly all culture crosses. of course there are some things attempted to be stopped and some bits banned, but the majority of it gets through.”

Back in 2006, chinese authorities cut five Stones songs because of suggestive lyrics

– ‘Brown Sugar,’ ‘Honky Tonk

Woman,’ ‘Beast of Burden,’ ‘let’s

Spend the Night Together’ and

‘Rough Justice.’ Does he think that is likely to happen again?

“Well I’ll let you know. Because you still have to submit a list

[of songs]. I think everyone has to submit a list. There are still some controls and still oversight and things like that, which in england or america would be really odd.”

Displaying his trademark humor, Mick declared of the ban that he was “pleased that the

Ministry of culture is protecting the morals of the expat bankers and their girlfriends that are going to be coming.”

“The expat morals,” Jagger remembers with a good chuckle.

“oh dear, I think they’re past it – the morals I mean, not their age!” away from the Stones, Jagger has a biopic of a certain Soul

Brother Number one in the works.

“I was asked to produce a documentary on James Brown by a friend of mine, and I turned around and said, ‘Well why don’t we do a feature?’ and of course, as the story always is in

Hollywood, there already was a feature, but it had been put on the shelves.”

The film, get on Up, was originally going to be directed by

Spike lee, who had cast eddie

Murphy as Brown.

‘I was like 20.

I wasn’t trying to outdo James

Brown. That wasn’t my intention’

The super 70s, from left: Charlie Watts, Keith

Richards, Bill Wyman, Mick Jagger and Ronnie Wood

“But it fell to bits for various reasons that I can’t even bore you with. and so I revived it with a friend of mine called

Brian grazer, who owned some of the rights, and we got it going. and in Hollywood terms, quite quickly. So it will be out in america in august.” charting Brown’s incredible journey from abject poverty in georgia to becoming the godfather of Soul, the list of characters includes one Mick

Jagger, played by up and coming american actor Nick

Sharing stage secrets with James Brown eversman. So did Jagger get a say in the casting?

“Yeah I did. It’s only really a walk-on scene. It’s only one little scene in the movie.” eversman got the seal of approval though? “Yeah… great one line!”

When the Stones first took america by storm as part of the

1960s British Invasion, Jagger would find himself performing on the same bill as Brown.

“god, well that’s a long time ago. He was pretty inspirational as a performer, you know, a real killer on stage. He taught everyone so many things, apart from the moves. How to get the energy up and all that. The relationship with the crowd. The way he manipulated them really was a lesson to learn when you watched him.”

The “walk-on” Jagger scene in the movie depicts the filming of classic rock‘n’roll movie The

T.a.M.I. Show, a concert at the

Santa Monica civic auditorium in october, 1964 that featured a stellar billing that included the

Beach Boys, chuck Berry, Marvin gaye and Smokey Robinson, as well as Brown and the Stones.

The Stones were chosen to close the show — a decision that somewhat irked the Brown ego. In a moment of heated backstage drama, he taunted the band, telling them, “I’m gonna make you Rollin’ Stones wish you’d never left england.” or so the legend goes…

“Yeah, I don’t know if that is apocryphal,” says Jagger. “That is really going back a long way.

We put this in the movie, so I kind of did a lot of research on that. I don’t know if he really said that. But it looks good in the movie.”

Blowin’ on the ol’ harmonica

Brown’s set was scorching though, and he later claimed he never danced faster in his life.

The pressure was on Jagger to find a way to out-perform him.

“Weeell… It wasn’t really, because the thing was – it is a bit of a let down – but we didn’t go on immediately after him, or with the same audience even,”

Jagger confesses, thoroughly busting the rock’n’roll myth.

“It was a movie. So there was a big break and they changed the audience, so it wasn’t really

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like that,” he continues, before admitting that Brown’s performance did at least spur him on.

“I mean, you know, it’s always good to be… poked.”

Jagger had been on the scene for a couple of years though, had been observing the masters at work, and by now was adept at getting audience energy up.

“Yeah. I mean definitely,” he agrees. So how did they do it that day?

“We just went on and did what we

Good times at Glastonbury normally did with a bit of extra push.”

If that sounds understated, it is worth remembering what the

Stones “normally did” in the mid-60s, which was whip their audiences up into a knickersoaked maelstrom of hysteria, the screaming of their teenage banshee fans so loud that guitarist Brian Jones used to start playing ‘Popeye the Sailor Man’ in the middle of ‘Satisfaction’

– and nobody could hear the difference. Deadpan drummer charlie Watts summed up their early shows: “Three songs and then a riot would break out.” on this occasion, the Stones finished their five-song set with Bo

Diddley’s ‘I’m all Right.’ about a minute in, Jagger settles the song down, then builds it back up, bit by bit. “I’m all right…” he sings over and over, changing the inflections and increasing the intensity each of the 15 times he sings the lyric.

Finally, he’s screaming it, shaking his head as wildly as the maracas he’s holding, and wiggling that delightful little arse of his in a most provocative manner. The cacophony from the frenzied crowd sounds like a huge flock of insane seagulls.

Jagger may not have been able to out-dance Brown, but it is possible he trumped him in the art of audience manipulation.

“But I was like 20, you know what I mean,” he says of the performance. “I wasn’t trying to outdo James Brown. That wasn’t my intention. It wasn’t possible to do.”

The video might dispute that. and 50 years on, Jagger is still at it. The septuagenarian sticks to a strict training regime to prepare himself for the estimated 12 miles he covers during a typical stage show (and to maintain his skinny 28 inch waist). and last summer saw the

Stones make their long-awaited debut at english festival institution glastonbury.

“It was a pretty amazing night.

It was a really special atmosphere. They said there had never been so many people going up the hill,” Jagger says with pride. “Because you look up a hill when you’re on stage, and as far as you can see up this hill you can see people.

“and it is a pretty wild crowd by this time. I mean it’s not… staid. So you really feel it when you go on, the adrenaline’s really pumping overtime. It was a pretty amazing experience.”So he still gets the same buzz after all these years?

“oh god, you couldn’t fail to get a buzz when you went out there, it was just insane,”

Jagger enthuses. “I went to see the arctic Monkeys the night before to get a good feel for it, because the thing about that kind of set is, you don’t get to rehearse. You never go on the stage. You can’t, because there’s always people on it.

“So I went to see the arctic

Monkeys, and it’s not the easiest stage to work. and of course I tried to make it work as much as I could.

But it was a fantastic weekend, a really great laugh and all my kids were there. It was really great.” also marking the Stones

50th anniversary was the release of Crossfire Hurricane, a documentary featuring archive footage backed by a series of interviews with band members conducted without cameras.

In it Keith Richards describes

‘Midnight Rambler’ as “a blues opera,” the quintessential

Jagger-Richards song that “nobody else could have written.”

“Yeah, I suppose so…” Jagger says, with an obvious air of skepticism. “I always remember Bob Dylan saying no one else could have written ‘Mr.

Tambourine Man’ – I don’t know really… I suppose not though,” he says with a highpitched laugh.

“You did them so no one else did them,” he elaborates. “You are what you are, and that’s your destiny.” once a song is written, it is written – insisting after the fact that only you could have written it, Jagger believes, “is some sort of oxymoron.”

“It is an interesting song to do,” he says of ‘Midnight Rambler.’

“a three-part blues piece with different tempos. With the blues you don’t normally get any changes, you know, so it’s quite an original idea. I think that’s what he means.”

So is there a particular song

Jagger feels is quintessentially

Stones, that captures the soul of the band?

“I think most of them,” he says simply. “I suppose you say you’ve got some inexplicable sound or something that no one else has quite imitated. I suppose that’s the thing.”

Shanghai

2006

I

t was 44 years in the making, but april 8, 2006 was the night The Rolling

Stones played mainland china for the first and – until next month – only time. and as with 2014, Shanghai was the only chinese leg on their twoyear a Bigger Bang tour, the band arriving from Japan complete with jumbo jet loaded with almost 100 tons of equipment and set. at the press conference in the Four Season’s Hotel,

Keith Richards declared of finally making it to the Middle

Kingdom, “I feel like Marco

Polo!” Mick Jagger made light of the fact authorities had asked the band to cut five songs – ‘Brown Sugar,’

‘Honky Tonk Woman,’ ‘Beast of

Burden,’ ‘let’s Spend the Night

Together’ and ‘Rough Justice’ – from their repertoire because of suggestive lyrics, saying they had 400 other songs to choose from, and adding that he was, “pleased that the

Ministry of culture is protecting the morals of the expat bankers and their girlfriends that are going to be coming.”

The show itself was unanimously declared an absolute belter, with an 8,000-strong crowd cramming into the

Shanghai grand Stage and many millions more watching it on ccTV. The band even invited cui Jian – ‘The Father of chinese Rock’ – to join them on stage to play ‘Wild Horses.’

The final encore? ‘Satisfaction.’

The audience certainly got some… yeah, yeah, yeah.

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cover story

IN THE

COURT OF KING KIM

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February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

IN THE

COURT OF KING KIM

Bromance and

BasketBall with dennis rodman in north korea: an exclusive First person account

By simon cockerell

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

37

cover story

December 14, 2013

“ok, ok, last price – 120 kuai, ok?” i’ve had my fair share of strange and confusing experiences – having taken 130 trips to north korea over a dozen years, it pretty much goes with the territory – but acting as personal shopper for dennis rodman in

Beijing’s Yashow market is up there with the oddest.

rodman’s luggage had failed to arrive in Beijing and the basketball star was due to transfer to an even-colder pyongyang the next day; some winter kit was essential. rodman, of course, has an idiosyncratic style – but one that Yashow was more than able to match.

Bargaining over tens of yuan for nBa-sized red tracksuit pants, jeans, polo shirts, some horrible shoes (that were never even worn), and other accessories was odd enough – even odder when the intended wearer is widely perceived as a millionaire – but seeing the giant star on cnn in his eccentric (fake) clobber was probably worth it. probably.

along with the rest of the world, i watched with a combination of bemusement and curiosity when the dennis rodman circus first wheeled into town in

Februrary 2013, courtesy of

VICE media and accompanied by the harlem

Globetrotters. a young marshall kim

Jong un would later watch in the stands as rodman and co. played an exhibition match that strained even the hardiest of cognitive dissonances. But even this image would come to seem normal, compared to the bizarre heights the rodman project would later reach.

my peripheral involvement in

L’affair Rodman began when a friend was contracted last year to arrange his next trip in september. although initially undertaken with little fanfare, it would later emerge that rodman spent a substantial amount of time with kim himself, hanging out at a resort on the sea of Japan (or, to use the official parlance, the east sea of korea in the democratic people’s republic of korea, or dprk) and meeting his baby girl – whom rodman was the first to inform the world about. indeed, her very existence remains an open secret inside north korea to this day. photos showed rodman relaxing with the marshall, who he often describes as a close friend – a view he is utterly sincere about – and singing with the moranbong Band, north korea’s answer to the spice Girls. an all-female ensemble thought to number around 20 musicians and singers, and formed under the guidance of kim himself, the moranbong Band are alarmingly ubiquitous on north korean tv these days. Fashionable young ladies copy the group’s flattering, pixie-like haircut and the band has even popularized above-the-knee skirts, socially unacceptable before their emergence.

(i had the brief pleasure of meeting some of them at the masik ski resort where the moranbong had gone for lessons – mostly wandering around in pastel skiwear, though they did indeed take to the slopes. unfortunately, a vice minister of sport declined my request for a photo op. the band were

“very pure” he said, giving me an appraising look – i was too “experienced.” i wheedled for a while (“surely they might be interested in some experience?”) but the minister insisted – rather presumptuously, in hindsight – that these k-pop pourri were “too innocent” and “wouldn’t want” to meet the likes of me.) the reason for rodman’s unprecedented access? Both kim

Jong un and his father, the late kim Jong il, were basketball fans – a ball signed by michael

Jordan and presented by thenus secretary of state madeline albright is one of the main attractions at the international

Friendship exhibition (see ‘it’s

Grim up north korea’ p45), while the extant kim, who now rules over a nuclear-armed, military-first nation of 24 million, was supposedly an ardent fan of the chicago Bulls’ glory days while schooling in switzerland.

December 15, 2013

it was for his latest and most infamous trip that i first met dennis and his entourage, a cast that included his bodyguard and friend (a former professional fighter and downright charming man), a professor of neuroscience at columbia university who had met rodman while playing ‘horse’ at a charity event, a film crew shooting a (now eagerly awaited) documentary and a representative from paddy power, the irish gambling giant underwriting the trips at the time (they later pulled their name in the face of public criticism). at Beijing’s terminal 2, i encountered my first major media scrum. i’d witnessed the

Japanese media corps meet kim

Jong il’s former sushi chef, kenji

Fujimoto, in 2012, but that was a sedate affair. Falling cameras and shouting matches punctuated just getting dennis rodman a couple of hundred meters from his vehicle through customs.

From the shelter of the bus, i chatted with dennis and found him charming, engaging, funny and interested in north korea.

But as he openly admitted, dennis didn’t know the first thing about it: not even the difference between north and south, let alone the major issues. he was just along for the ride. it’s easy to mock dennis as a clown, as someone out of his depth, but he plays up to that. he loves to be the center of attention, but is also genuine about wanting to do something special inside north korea.

December 31, 2013

it wouldn’t be for another two weeks that we would meet again, when i returned to pyongyang on new Year’s eve

(previously, the dprk had an unexplained ban on tourism over the christmas period; this was then dropped, also without any explanation).

Fireworks erupted around the

150m-high Juche tower, and afterwards we mingled with the young crowd in pyongyang’s kim il sung square for our first new Year. koryo tours had been granted exclusive access to the paddy power invitational basketball event and planned to assemble two groups to come along. initially, there was resistance to the attendance of tourists but finally it was agreed that a small number would be allowed in, mostly dprk veterans, americans and basketball fanatics: a perfect combination. we also used the exclusivity of this event to raise funds for a charity project in pyongyang, funding and operating the country’s first school for deaf children. it is estimated that 1-2 percent of the population are deaf and one indisputably good thing to have come out of this

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February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

trip was being able to generate significant funds to help with this project, which is simply one of the most worthy we have ever come across. dennis visited the school himself on his third visit, and seeing the kids there overjoyed to meet him – he is, by now of course, immensely famous inside the dprk – makes you realize what just a little help can do for the lives of people with disabilities in a difficult place like north korea.

January 6-7, 2014

the confirmation from the dprk national olympic committee that we would be in attendance at the game was somewhat ambiguously worded. we were advised not to “worry too much” about access – experience told me to worry, but only the right amount. But what is that? this question lingered while we took our visitors to some of the more interesting sites of pyongyang: the newly opened mirim riding club

(featuring kim Jong il’s favorite horse, stuffed), the new war museum, a local bar, and as much else as we could cram into a drizzly day. in the evening, we chatted with some of the players on dennis’s delegation (see

‘rodman’s roster’ p.41), who had been very brave to follow the mercurial rodman and take part in this audacious piece of

‘basketball diplomacy.’ sadly the koryo hotel, while among the best they have, has a strict policy of closing their main bar at 11pm, a blow to all of us enjoying drinking with the players. however, i managed to persuade the waitresses to keep the bar open longer by teaching them to juggle with bottle caps – more effective than an offer of money moments earlier. so while we flicked imported

Bavaria lager caps, the players and tourists enjoyed a unique evening ahead of a nerve-wracking event the next day. it was only later we found out that this session took place just a few hours after the now-notorious interview with cnn’s chris cuomo; fellow player charles smith (see ‘rodman’s roster’) had presented the players’ case very well but a tired and emotional dennis had somewhat flown off the handle when cuomo repeatedly brought up the case of imprisoned american kenneth Bae.

By shouting at cuomo, dennis came across as rather undignified. charles’s intervention calmed things down a bit, though, and the next day dennis’s publicist issued his apology, stating he had been under a lot of stress and drinking. Both of which i knew to be true – still, it wasn’t an auspicious start.

January 8, 2014

the Big day. we were told to dress smart and had to abandon lunch halfway through to join the motorcade of diplomats on their way to the newly renovated pyongyang indoor stadium. we couldn’t take in cameras or, indeed, anything (a level of security that surely heralded a kim appearance) but ran into dennis and his entourage in very high spirits, on their way to meet kim. dennis was clad in a natty-gray north korean-style suit and swigging from a glass of something brown – possibly coke mixed with Bad ass vodka, rodman’s own premium brand, bottles of which (curiously,

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

39

cover story engraved with the likenesses of both him and kim) were presented to the marshall.

along with around 12,000 koreans, mostly students, we took our seats. as both teams warmed up, big screens above the court showed a korean-style history of basketball – apparently, it began in ancient Greece. then the marshall emerged about 30 meters to my right with wife ri sol Ju, a former singer and current style icon

(sound familiar?) the crowd leapt to their feet and for several minutes, cries of ‘manse!’ (‘long life!’) echoed loudly around the arena. kim acknowledged all sections – even us – then motioned for everyone to sit down. it didn’t do the job: the cries and cheers kept coming. i’ve seen this kind of thing many times on television, and experienced it personally with kim Jong il in 2005, but it is actually a chilling spectacle to be in the middle of a sea of enraptured people, all calling out the same word over and over. strangest of all was seeing our korean guides, who i have known for many years, doing the same; not that i would have expected otherwise, but seeing that took things from the abstract to the visceral. Frankly, it gave me goosebumps. what came next was arguably even odder. dennis took to the mic for what was expected to be a warm tribute to the thousands who had gathered there, and the millions who would watch later on tv (live footage of the marshall is never broadcast in north korea), and/or a bland statement about non-political sporting engagement. he decided to go in another direction, though, first thanking the american players, then encouraging a sing-along to

‘happy Birthday’ to kim (the slow, husky rodman mix). although January 8 is known as the leader’s birthday, it is not celebrated as a national holiday. uptake was slow to say the least, although the song is widely known even in north korea – clearly unplanned, it left everyone feeling bemused, as if they couldn’t quite credit what had just happened. dennis was clearly emotional about the whole thing, wiping away tears afterwards, but i think for many it struck the

Simon Cockerell and Dennis Rodman wrong note for what the event was about: bringing americans and koreans together to play some ball, away from politics.

this was proven in the game itself (despite all the cheers being organized by men in caps, with no group spontaneity at all). the first half was american on korean and, honestly, the home

‘torch’ team walked it (despite smith’s boast the night before that there were no winners or losers in basketball diplomacy

– but the americans would definitely win!) teamwork and deadly accurate three-point shots made up for any height deficit and lack of flamboyance in the koreans’ play. after the teams mixed sides, though, sh*t got real. it was simply a league above the first half: streetballers showboating, showing off with alley-oops and slam dunks with even the korean players getting into the spirit (which they normally shy away from). my gaze, though, was often drawn away from this spectacle to watch kim Jong un and rodman as they sat, smoking (kim chaining cigs, rodman on the cigar, the only people in the arena doing so), seemingly having a wild time of it. i did appear on the Jumbotron at one point and went to blow a kiss to the crowd – but the camera cut off and i ended up looking as if i had put a hand to my mouth in affected shock, like some starstuck fanboy. dammit!

after the marshall left – i forget the final score (the white team won) – we tripped out into the dark evening with the locals for a frantic discussion back at the hotel about what we had seen and what we thought the international reaction would be. dennis stopped by for a chat then headed to his rooms on the secret floor of the hotel (i went once: very nice indeed but almost impossible to find, due to cunning architecture). the associated press were uploading their feed and seemed to be using the entire nation’s bandwidth so i had to wait around a bit to do a skype interview with sky news, but the merriment continued. shortly afterwards i heard a voice shouting my name: it was rodman in the lobby, sipping soju (see ‘north korean nightlife’, p46) with the crew and an irish writer sent in to document the whole thing. he was on top form; approachable, holding court, flirting with any women and making wild statements about himself and the future of basketball diplomacy. dennis was proud of himself and keen to take credit. i asked whose idea it had been to mix up the teams and he looked at me like i was an idiot. of course it was his idea (probably true). this little session was the highlight of my trip, as it probably was for some of those tourists who bantered along with him. sure, he called me a “little sh*t” a few days later but i took it as a friendly gesture.

January 9, 2014

and just like that, when we woke the next morning the big man was gone – off to an as-yet undisclosed series of locations. rumours abounded that they had helicoptered to the east coast or to the masik ski resort or to kim Jong un’s actual house. (i know the truth but am sworn to secrecy for now.) the remaining players spent the morning at the new munsu water park in pyongyang, mixing with local kids (shame the media weren’t there to cover this) and that afternoon i spent several hours (and just under

200 dollars) letting them ‘hotspot’ off my phone to check email, read news, and skype their families. i got on especially well with street-baller andre

‘silk’ poole, not only a wonderful player and storyteller (his

40-minute live-action explanation of Shaolin vs. Wu-Tang to an audience of just me shall not be easily forgotten), but also played the streetball ringer from season one of The Wire.

these players will be criticized but they showed millions that americans and north koreans could play together and even be better for it. dennis provided both the engine and, unfortunately, the bumps on the road that threatened to constantlyderail the whole thing. there are aspects to be deeply critical of, as well as elements to be praised about the whole venture but even as someone on the periphery – personal shopper turned bar confidante – i will dine out on the story for years. as for dennis, he’s a force of nature, a charming man who can cause unbearable stress to those around him, but also great pleasure and loyalty. that’s just what he’s like: a bag of contradictions but someone i’d gladly spend time with again in the future. and if any other nBa players need a personal shopper in Beijing, well – they know where to find me.

// Simon Cockerell is General Manager of Koryo

Tours in Beijing. Dennis Rodman is now in rehab.

No money was exchanged for this article.

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February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

ALL STAR ALL STAR ALL STAR ALL STAR

THESPIAN

KENNY ANDERSON

FORMER ALCOHOLIC

VIN BAKER DOUG CHRISTIE

PORN PRODUCER

Eric Floyd

BEDDING SALESMAN

Kenny Anderson

Age: 43

Played for: nets, hornets, trail

Blazers, celtics, supersonics, hawks, clippers

Status: having burnt through his earnings, anderson – who retitred in 2006 – took up a school coaching job in Florida, only to be fired last year after picking up a dui. his most recent public appearance was in a play entitled The Penis Monologues.

Vin Baker

Age: 42

Played for: Bucks, supersonics, celtics, knicks, rockets, clippers

Status: a four-time consecutive nBa all star and olympic gold medal-winner before alcohol addiction cut his career prematurely short. today he’s sober and working as a pastor at a church in harlem, new York city.

Doug Christie

Age: 43

Played for: lakers, knicks, raptors, kings, magic, mavericks, clippers

Status: Best known for instigating a massive on-court brawl with the la laker’s rick Fox in

2002, christie and his wife Jackie can today be seen on their own cable-television series, The

Christies Committed. last year, the couple began producing their own line of porn films.

Eric “Sleepy” Floyd

Age: 53

Played for: nets, warriors, rockets, spurs

Status: despite being the warriors’ centerpiece in the early-to-mid 1980s, and holding the nBa playoff record for points scored in both a quarter

(29) and half (39), Floyd was only once selected as an nBa all star. since 2013 he has been employed as a “brand ambassador” for a california bedding company.

ALL STAR ALL STAR ALL STAR ALL STAR

CRAIG HODGES

POLITICAL ACTIVIST WEED SMOKER

CLIFF ROBINSON

ALMOST-RAN

CHARLES SMITH

DENNIS RODMAN

CROSS DRESSER

Craig Hodges

Age: 53

Played for: clippers, Bucks, suns, Bulls

Status: a true renegade and man of principal – hodges is a genuine political activist. a onetime friend of louis Farrakhan, hodges was in the chicago Bulls legendary Jordan-era team, where he won two titles. he is now coach of canadian side halifax rainmen.

Cliff Robinson

Age: 47

Played for: trail Blazers, warriors, suns, pistons, nets

Status: robinson played 18 seasons, raking up close to 1,400 games. he put up over 19,000 points, more than names such as magic Johnson. robinson’s only foray into the news was when he was arrested for possession of marijuana in 2001.

Charles Smith

Age: 48

Played for: clippers, knicks, spurs

Status: smith never quite managed to get over the loss of being blocked four straight times directly under the basket as he attempted to give new

York the lead in Game 5 of the

1993 eastern conference Finals against Jordan’s chicago Bulls. his team lost and he retired from the game not long after.

Dennis Rodman

Age: 52

Played for: pistons, spurs, Bulls, lakers, and mavericks

Status: the cigar-smoking leader of the gang’s off-thecourt exploits have somewhat overshadowed his playing career. the cross-dressing former

Bulls power forward, claiming to be one of 47 children, has been in and out of (and back in last month) rehab and dated carmen electra and madonna.

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

41

cover story

IT S grIm up NorTh

BeautiFul propaGanda and countrYside

Belie the truth oF this secretive state

BY NED KELLY

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February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

do you have today’s paper?” i ask the receptionist at the koryo hotel. “no,” she replies. “But we’ve got tomorrow’s.” welcome to the democratic people’s republic of korea, the most secretive state on earth, where tomorrow’s news has been agreed in advance. during my time in asia, i have twice visited the country known as the hermit kingdom – in itself an act that some argue helps “prop up the regime, thereby prolonging the suffering of the north korean people” (in the words of melanie kirkpatrick, a senior fellow at the hudson institute in washington).

on my first visit, no sooner had i emerged on the other side of passport control at pyongyang airport than my mobile phone was confiscated for the duration of my trip. nowadays, though, these rules have been relaxed. You can bring pretty much anything – laptop, digital camera, smart phone

– safe in the knowledge that it will not be taken. still, it pays to be prudent: Gps trackers and copies of books deemed critical of the dprk, for example, are probably a provocation too far. the highlight (and main reason) of the trip for most people is the famous arirang

Festival mass Games. we were whisked straight there by bus to the rungrado may day stadium, which, with 150,000 seats, is the largest-capacity stadium in the world. Before us, 20,000 schoolchildren turn themselves into human pixels, clacking big books of different colored cards with faultless coordination to create a series of vast mosaics that tell the story of the nation and its struggles – with

Japanese occupation, with war with america, with reunification. in front of them, on the astroturf field, another 60,000 perform perfectly synchronized gymnastics.

the display is an ideal showpiece for the socialist ideals of the country – individuals giving themselves over to the collective to create something greater than the sum of its parts, the participants themselves embodying youth, strength, militarism

(the ‘Juche’ philosophy) and unity. each of them has undergone a grueling eightmonth training process to ensure there will not be the slightest fault. But put political convictions to one side and check your conscience at the door and it is impossible not to enjoy – it is quite simply incredible, one of the most breathtakingly beautiful human spectacles on earth, ever.

once it is over we head back to the hotel, which stands on an island in the taedong river. this, and the fact you are not allowed to leave its confines without your north korean guide, has led wags to dub it ‘alacatraz’ – indeed, this is how it is referred to among pyongyang’s entire foreign community. But it’s not so bad: the basement contains several bars, a ktv, a bowling alley and even a casino (north koreans are not allowed in and it is run by chinese from macao). we are only there for one

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

43

cover story

DPRK propaganda posters typically extol the virtues of the worker

Due to a lack of industrialization, one aspect the posters depict with some accuracy is the stunning rural landscape night though, as members of the workers’ party were descending on the city for some vital meeting concerning kim Jong un, and we were moved across town to make way for them.

traveling across town is in itself something of a novelty. our journey takes in several sites, including the arch of triumph, a self-consciously over-sized replica of its

French namesake that celebrates resistance to 40 years of Japanese colonial rule

(60 meters high, 50 meters wide and decorated with 70 azaleas depicting the supposed “triumphant return of the Great leader,” it cost a fortune to build in such a poor country). Grandiose architecture is something you quickly become acquainted with. more bombs were dropped on the dprk during the korean war than on Japan and Germany combined during world war ii, with 428,000 on pyongyang alone – more than one per member of the population – reducing the city to rubble. after the armistice the city was redesigned in the soviet classicism-style; wide avenues, imposing monuments, and monolithic buildings.

Jong un is the son of former leader kim Jong il (the ‘dear leader’), and grandson of supreme leader kim il sung, who led the war of resistance against the Japanese, and is the vanquisher of the mighty “american bastards”

(as they are officially referred to in propaganda) and father of the nation. cult of personality is the order of the day here – it is impossible to overemphasize the kims’ omnipresence in every aspect of north korean life. their images are everywhere you turn, from giant roadside billboards, portraits on and in every public building, and on the tiny pin-badges that everybody in the country must wear – though no actual law exists to say that. il sung is effectively a god, towering from the center of pyongyang in 20-meter high bronze statue form, and lying in formaldehydepreserved state in a giant mausoleum on the city’s outskirts. despite being dead for 16 years, north korea’s

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February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

‘eternal president’ is still officially head of state. suffice to say, you will see many sites of veneration to kim il sung, where you must bow solemnly if you know what’s good for you (although the dmZ and pyongyang metro are relatively kim-free). it is a fascinating, if frightening, insight into how this regime holds on to power and what makes this nation tick.

one essential visit is the international Friendship exhibition, a 50,000-sqm,

150-room marble-adorned museum displaying gifts given to the kims – over

230,000 from 183 countries, including the us and uk, all dug into the side of a mountain (to withstand a nuclear attack, i understand.) i certainly will sleep easier knowing a certain item in there won’t be liquefied by nukes: a stuffed crocodilewaiter from nicaragua that stands erect holding a silver tray of drinks; every apartment should have one.

But for the most part, it is cabinet after cabinet of often-bizarre offerings: a mishmash of tat – ashtrays from argentina, a terriblelooking tv set from Bulgaria

– and wastefulness (several entire plasma-screen home cinema sets, forever unused and on display). mao Zedong did give him an impressive armored railway carriage, mind you.

all of this is intended to convince the masses that rightthinking people around the world are in awe of their beloved kim il sung. it gets a little much. atop a dining set sits a certificate claiming to be from the Guinness

Book of World Records. what record have these table and chairs broken, one wonders?

“it is the most famous set of furniture in the world,” we are told. the museum is a fascinating insight into the mind of a nation, yet, the overdose of obsession

– especially in regard to the dear leader, can at times begin to grate.

the following day and it’s on to the children’s palace. moving through the entrance hall we are taken past a procession of rooms in which groups – always groups – perform their given art. in the first, a dozen girls give an incredible accordion performance, while the second contains children practicing calligraphy. in the third, four pianists are overseen by a strict instructor, clearly anxious that nothing should go wrong. it doesn’t – their timing is immaculate. room after room the same, all billed as a place of “comprehensive extracurricular education for schoolchildren.” But it’s the middle of the day – shouldn’t they be at school? my suspicion that it is all for our benefit is given weight by a sneaky peek into the calligraphy room later – the kids have all put down their brushes, charade over.

the tour culminates with a show at the in-house theater. this is an unashamed, over-the-top propaganda piece. For over an hour we are ‘entertained’ by an allsinging, all-dancing cast of hundreds of five and six year-olds who performance involves maintaining permanent synchronized smiles. the cutesy-creepiness cranks up once our translator tells us what they are singing about: a five-year-old boy cheerily extols his pride about launching missiles, followed by a snappy number in which a girl, six , congratulates the on sen city power station for running at

160 percent output.

EXPERT PICKS

Geoffrey K. See

Managing Director, Choson

Exchange

“the pyolmuri cafe. hidden on a back street near the railway station, the cafe offers tasty foreign fare in a small and cosy setting, in a city where edible foreign fare is still a rarity. try the locally made goat’s cheese, or even better, the goat’s cheese fondue.” there is something about an official tour – piling on and off the bus together, the constant commentary – that makes a visit to the dprk feel a little like a school trip. preposterous statements

– such as a north korean guide at a flower display, who gravely mangled an

Onion hoax about kim Jong un’s award of sexiest man alive into a story about kim being “voted the Best president in the world by americans” – often leave visitors sniggering like schoolkids. But this can also feel smug and mean (what choice do the guides have?), and the long-suffering foreign guide sheepishly herds us on to the next display.

Anja Daelemans

Co-Director, Co-Producer,

comrade kim Goes Flying

“the pyongyang Film studio. the whole studio complex is fairly bizarre. it’s similar to Bollywood studios and even some hollywood studios in that everything is fake. there is an entire ancient korean town, a chinese street, a south korean street, a Japanese street, even a european street.”

Vicky Mohieddeen

Video Producer and Koryo

Cinema Programmer, Koryo

Tours

which leads to the question: do they actually believe in it all? if they don’t, they certainly aren’t letting on. i asked my guide if he had ever seen kim Jong il in the flesh; turns out he had driven passed in a car once. “so what did it feel like?” he is momentarily lost for words, shaking his head: “i cannot explain to you, a foreigner, the feeling i had inside as a korean. it is too powerful.” a visit to north korea may leave the same impression.

“the pyongyang international cinema house. the only time foreigners are permitted to enter cinemas to watch films is during the pyongyang international

Film Festival (the next edition of the festival is this september).the screens themselves are charmingly old fashioned with wooden benches and auditoriums that are plunged into complete darkness when the film begins – quite unlike the health and safety obsessed shiny multiplexes we see all over the rest of asia now.”

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

45

cover story

By rFH

NorTh

KoreaN

NIghTlIfe

who saYs pYonGYanG is a one partY town?

I n october 2012, kim chol, former vice-minister of the north korean army, was supposedly made to stand on a spot that had been zeroed-in for a mortar round. he was then obliterated, according to an alleged order from leader kim Jong un, leaving “no trace of [kim chol] behind, down to his hair.” the minister’s heinous crime? supposedly, to be caught

“drinking and carousing” during the mourning period for the late kim Jong il. visitors to north korea need not fear enjoying a drink or three, however. the least-credible part of this south korean account is not the mortar round

– a standard megalomaniacal tactic, surely – but the expectation that somehow the dprk magically stayed sober for a full

100 days after the dear leader’s demise. pretty much anyone with knowledge of korea will tell you that drinking is a big part of life above and below the

38th parallel, especially since the Japanese introduced beer culture – along with the bitter legacy of occupation – in the

1910s. in north korea, where winters are long and bleak, and there’s very little else to do in the way of entertainment all year round, that love of liquor probably counts doubly so. the national spirit is soju, a near-tasteless (yet potent) brew, often mixed in the south with 7-up or cherry coke but in the north, obviously, usually enjoyed neat or watered down. tourists can try some of the region’s other brews, including many a ginseng-infused wine

– a major export – or drinks claiming to contain pickled medicinal ‘tiger bone’ or penis

(the dprk’s last wild tiger was exterminated – and presumably distilled – decades ago). most tourists, though, are likely to be primarily drinking beer. north korea has an unusual advantage in this area, in that the high price and scarcity of fuel, and lack of infrastructure, has encouraged hundreds of towns to establish their own microbreweries. most of these are amateur operations but the brewers have plenty of time and pride on their hands, and there are plenty of dprk beers that knock tsingtao into a cocked glass. the taedonggang, named after pyongyang’s river, is one of the city’s most notable nightlife stop-offs, producing around seven types of beer

(Beer number 1, Beer number

2, etc) using equipment from the well regarded, sadly now defunct British brewery usher’s of trowbridge. despite their declared strengths of 7 and 5 percent, the only effect i felt after finishing two in quick succession was an unfortunate need to visit a bathroom – while stuck on the pyongyang metro.

pubs usually don’t have music – instead, the camaraderie comes

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February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

NorTh

KoreaN

NIghTlIfe

from toasting and singing. the act of imbibing is usually more measured too, says richie Fenner, 23-year-old tour guide for the Young pioneers, a

British-run, xi’an-based budgettravel company, who gear themselves towards a younger crowd (their slogan: “taking you to the places your mother would rather you stayed away from”). celebrations among koreans include extended, formalized kim-cheersing, meaning people “drink at the same pace as everyone else,” Fenner says. it’s similar to china, though with one big difference: “people aren’t passing out left, right and center. most know their limits and you don’t see bathrooms full of vomit, because, well, people know their limits more.” that said, alcoholism is widespread along with meth use, throughout the country.

Booze is cheap – at least, for north koreans; governmentsubsidized beer and soju is readily available to “keep people happy and avoid sober confrontation with an angry populace,” as one expert put it. But don’t expect much in the way of nightlife. the diplomatic club by the Juche tower is the sole entry in the Lonely Planet’s nightlife section on the dprk, a “newly refurbished complex full of bars, karaoke rooms and restaurants”. it sounds better on paper.

sadly, that describes much of the entertainment options, both in pyongyang and beyond: hotels like the koryo or the Yanggakdo may offer things like a nightclub, bar, even a bowling alley or casino

(complete with blackjack and baccarat!) but the reality is that these places are usually deserted and/or closed. that doesn’t deter people from getting their drink on, though, usually in one of the pyongyang hotels.

almost every tour group has a hangover-in-residence (often several) and stories of drunken arguments, missed flights and other regrettable incidents are not uncommon. and although

The Hangover-type experiences are the stuff of legend, benders are benders, even in pyongyang. “during the

1995 ‘international peace and

Friendship Festival,’ attended by mohammed ali, this dutch guy wandered out of the koryo hotel around 1am and fell asleep by the river opposite the Juche tower,” koryo’s nick Bonner remembers. “he woke up about 3am, without a clue where he was – country, let alone place. [eventually], he was taken back to the hotel by a polite local.” and perhaps only in north korea could a man allegedly defect while drunk.

win! we've got two koryo t-shirts. an excluisve set of dvds and a book about north korean art to give away. email ‘koryo’ to bjedi-

[email protected].

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

47

Nibbles

the grapevine

Six of the best: Valentine’s Day dinner

as Stephen King wrote, sometimes they come back. and sometimes they don’t, which seems to be the case for former Pinotage executive

Chef amber Deetlefs, who decided not to return from

South africa. the restaurant is holding firm with a revamped menu of fusions, including an awesome Chinese-style dumpling with bobotie (pictured, above). Lekker!

Other big changes include the new Kerry Mall (with its own

Wagas, Hatsune and Element

Fresh), Ssam (the Korean restaurant is now focused on street food, and called

One Pot) and sports bar Cuju

(planning to soon go fullrestaurant). the old hard rock is now Ammo and a refurbed

Indian Kitchen is back in the same location (see p.70).

those that didn’t survive the harsh winter include nali patio’s Velvet, Dongzhimen bike bar Serk – moving with the rent – ritan’s 20-year-old american Steak and Eggs and wine bar Scarlett, which closed with Hotel G.

another new additions in

Xingfucun is cocktail speakeasy Parlor, while the place will host taiwanese bar-restaurant-club Peekaboo. good luck with that. elsewhere we’ve heard – but not seen – of a hutong ‘space’ called Mulu that only accepts reservations and a cheap

French bistro Le Grenadier, in

Dianmen. Finally, a question: seeing as the British were given it without asking, will the new zodiac year finally see quality horsemeat make it to Beijing menus? Or have we been already eating it unawares, along with fox, mink and house cat? RFH

Raffles

Jaan is using molecular gastronomy and aphrodisiac ingredients, like oysters and chili chocolate, for their dinner of luurve

(rMB788 + 15% service).

// 33 East Chang An Avenue, Dongcheng

District 东城区长安东大街33号 (5257

3791)

Isola

homemade Bauletti pasta with

Boston lobster is on the menu at isola (rMB700 per couple, + 10% service).

// N3-37,3/F Building 3, Taikoo Li North, 11

Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里

屯路11号院太古里北区三层N3-37和 四

层N3-47商铺 (6416 3499)

flamme

the star of Flamme’s five-course set menu (rMB688 per couple) is the seafood platter with

Japanese scallops and new

Zealand mussels.

// 269, Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Road,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐

堤港商场269号 ( 8420 0270)

mosto

treat the person you care about the ‘mosto’ with this four-course dinner (rMB480 pp), including chocolate soufflé with a molten white chocolate center.

// 3/F, Nali Huayuan, 81 Sanlitun Beilu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北路81号

那里花园3层 (5208 6030)

BRasseRIe flo

the gourmands at Flo are recreating the perfect parisian dining experience with their 5 course degustation dinner (rMB1,599 per couple, includes a glass of

Moët & Chandon).

// 18 Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳

区霄云路18号 (6595 5135)

Head to head

The Local

vs

Revolution

The challenge: hot rum

29 GRIll

enjoy a candlelit five-course dinner with champagne and oysters at the Conrad’s top eatery (rMB1,314 per couple, or rMB1,917 +15% service including a room for the night.)

// 29 Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳

区东三环北路29号 (6584 6000)

Challenger: hot Buttered rum

Digs: Courtyard no 9’s popular watering hole

Deal: Made to the manager’s own recipe, this is the go-to drink for the wintering pirate. it’s rMB50, but come Wednesdays, all cocktails are rMB100 for three.

Tasting notes: presented in a mug with cinnamon swizzle-stick, this spicy confection tastes like Christmas in a cup, with a glaze of butter on top

Winter warmth? Could be dispensed by a wheezing St

Bernard on a freezing alpine slope

Challenger: hot Chocolate rum

Digs: Yashow Market’s closest thing to hipster heaven

Deal: Just rMB45 will land you this steaming cup of creamy cocoa – with a kick. Sadly, this bar does not have a happy hour

Tasting notes: this is the hot chocolate you wish your mother made (had you been a somewhat boozy child with a slightly sweet tooth): rich, creamy, warm goodness.

Winter warmth? nine out of ten polar bears would drink this instead of glacial melt any day of the week

Verdict: We’d never turn down any of the Local’s cocktail creations, but revolution’s rum cup raises the

(chocolate) bar. and the ladies love it.

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edited by will philipps [email protected]

red and circus

Qingfeng Baozi

hands up if you’d ever heard of the Qingfeng Baozi chain before December of last year? probably not many of you – but ever since Xi Jinping got peckish one December morning while in traffic on the Second ring, the fortunes of this humble baozi franchise have changed dramatically.

the Fuxingmen-Xicheng branch of Qingfeng Baozi is where the president – or Uncle Xi, as he was referred to at the time – dropped in on December 29 to showcase his man-of-the-people credentials by joining the queue to buy a set meal of six porkand-onion steamed buns, a bowl of stir-fried pork liver and a plate of greens. there was widespread amazement over the fact that he not only paid from his own pocket, but even carried the tray to his table, and all without crashing into the gaggle of stunned onlookers surrounding him. amazing!

We visited the baozi shop ourselves a few days later, where the queues were still long for the newly devised “presidential

Set Meal” (still rMB21). it was over an hour’s wait before we finally picked up our tray – and this was at the off-peak hour of

4pm. hordes of photographers and tourists were buzzing around outside, while inside the overworked fuwuyuan were probably cursing their luck at having to deal with the wave after wave of customers.

the place had essentially turned into a fast-food shrine, with people making the pilgrimage from far and wide (it has since become a magnet for petitioners). China Daily reported a 40 percent sales-spike for the chain.

On our visit, a couple from

Shenyang were having their photo taken on the seat Xi was supposed to have used. “i hope it will bring me luck,” the husband told us. “according to our beliefs, people who become the top man in this big country must have some mysterious powers.” the man said he had searched online to find the right seat, although we didn’t have the heart to tell him that, after the president left, the restaurant immediately took away the actual chair he sat on, perhaps to exhibit at hQ or sell at auction. the proud couple, meanwhile, left the shop with 40 baozi.

Lin Wen, a lawyer, saw it as a version of “modern red tourism,” where tourists follow in the footsteps of former leaders, such as retracing route of the

Long March. One holidaymaker, who took the 300km trip from hebei, believes that, aside from just curiosity, people are drawn to show support for what Xi is doing. “it symbolizes the crackdown on corruption,” she told us. “Laobaixing [common people] need to voice their support of this. We hope that such policies will continue. a crackdown on extravagance and waste is something that the government should always be focusing on.”

KK

// Daily 6:30am-9pm, 7 Building, Nanlishi

Lu, Xicheng District 西城区南礼士路7号楼

(6803 2363) tuber trade

Truffling for gold

The Atlantic recently published an indepth report into the murky world of illegal truffle-trading – surprise, surprise, much of it is cultivated in China. the highly prized tubers, known for their scarcity and flavour, attract prices similar to high-end art: white truffles typically retail for between

USD3,000-7,000.

there’s certainly a market for them – one Chinese bidder paid

USD120,000 for two pounds – three times the price of gold. truffles do grow in certain parts of southern China, like Yunnan, but since their quality is inferior to europe's, they command a significantly lower price. as a result, the second-rate fungi have given rise to counterfeiting operations, with Chinese truffles being passed off for the superior european variety. interpol have been called in to police the illegal trade, but the Chinese authorities apparently have no interesting in cooperating. given the rarefied nature of truffles, fakes are hard to control, and with no serious health risks arising, perpetrators often get off with “little more than a slap on the wrist.”

Over the last 10 years, China has become the largest exporter of white truffles to the USa and now is estimated to export about 30 to 40 tons to europe each year. Measures are extreme in europe to protect their prized crop: to prevent hauls raided and hunter dogs poisoned “requires paramilitary patrols near truffle farms.” WP

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

49

eat / drink

WHISKy SPECIAL

T

oo much of anything is bad, but too much good whiskey is barely enough

– Mark twain

Devermann reveals a finer point on appalachian culture: “go to tennessee and ask for a Jack

Daniel’s bourbon, and they’ll beat you. Seriously.” Listeners it’s hours before any customscribble furiously.

ers are expected, but the eight bartenders and servers – six men, two women – are already gathered in uniform at an upthere was a time, seemingly long ago, when whisky was scale Beijing bar for “whiskey training.”

“We’re going to introduce you hard to find on the mainland. there were the big-name single malts – Macallan, glenfiddich, glenlivet – in first-tier bars, to american whiskey, its production, taste, and, if we have time, some cocktails,” explains and mainstay blends, but a Campbeltown Scotch like

Springbank 10? a sumptuous rye like templeton? a Johnnie american ‘whiskey ambassador’ adam Devermann of Distilled

Spirits Council of the US

(Discus), who travels the country offering tutorials to local barkeeps.

Hao ma? Fantastic.”

Walker label higher than Black? a fancy hotel or a Japanese bar like ichikura might have it, but most people would have had better luck brewing moonshine.

these days, upscale liquor stores all seem to carry a halfdozen islays and bourbons. the servers sit raptly as

Distributors are selling to lounges and private consumers alike. and whisky watering-holes that have emerged this past season in Beijing alone include Whisky

Bridge, D&M Bar, glen Classic, X

QC and ai Whisky.

“Whiskies,” says Jeff Ji, peatedwhisky lover and owner of Mai

Bar, “are a lot like beautiful girls. every bottle is different, the flavor changes every year as it ages, and it changes with the wood and environment.” Ji just opened a second bar near

Sanlitun, parlor, to meet the spiraling demand.

as in other parts of the world,

China is in the midst of a whisky renaissance. according to euromonitor international, the retail sale of american whiskeys in China has more than doubled from 2007 to 2012, to USD264 million, and is expected to jump another USD100 million in the next five years.

pop culture – whether Sixties cool in Mad Men or prohibitionera wise guys in Boardwalk

Empire – is spurring growth in the US, but in China, there may not be any particular driving force. it’s simply whisky’s time.

“i honestly don’t think it’s a fad,” says patrick Lin of the

Lexington Brewing and Distilling

Company, a Kentucky distillery whose products here include pearse Lyon reserve and town

Branch. “i think it says something when town Branch is only available in less than two dozen states in america and only one other country: ireland – because that’s the home country of our owner. and China.”

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Lin, who gives monthly trainings, says he’s impressed with both what Chinese tasters can identify – pineapple, for instance – and their eagerness to learn. “Whenever we do tastings,” he says, “you can always see foreigners and Chinese. the foreigners will be there just downing the drinks and not paying attention, while a lot of the Chinese i see are taking notes on what we’re saying and really concentrating on the flavors and the product itself.” put more plainly: “nothing is holding it back,” says Badr

Benjelloun, owner of two bars in Beijing. “it’s the fastest-growing spirit.”

Jerry Chao, manager of whisky bar ala house, believes that local knowledge – starting from Japanese single malts – has largely spread through word of mouth. “a lot of bartenders have gone abroad and brought whiskies back, and they introduce them to customers, who introduce them to their friends.”

Unfortunately, as with wine, taste still lags behind the eagerness to buy. this is especially true in lower-tier cities. ethan

Liu, bar manager at the upmarket d-Lounge in Beijing, estimates 90 percent of bar-goers at the ritz-Carlton in Chengdu, where he occasionally bartends, have no idea what they’re ordering. “For them, the most expensive is best; older is better.”

Dillon King, who specializes in southwest China, agrees. “Most locals [in Chengdu] remain clueless,” the 26-year-old distributor says, adding, “they don’t trust any whisky that hasn’t been hand-carried from duty free as being real.” in the giant municipality of Chongqing, “locals are less educated than in Chengdu.” the next whisky bar that opens in either metropolis will be the first, says King.

But Kunming is undergoing a “whisky explosion,” at least among expats, and this is leading certain bars to ask for more than Macallan and glenfiddich.

there’s still much more room for growth – and education. it’s why Discus’s Devermann has a job: he evangelizes american whiskeys. they’re more often employed in cocktails, which happen to be more popular with women, who represent another sharply growing demographic. Liu estimates that, within the next three years, “the complete whisky market will blossom. i mean, people will understand bourbons, single malts, blends – not just a single category of whisky.” at its most basic, whisky is alcohol distilled from grain at a relatively lower proof. Unless it’s moonshine, it’s then barrelaged. if it comes from Scotland, it’s a Scotch (Chivas, Johnnie

Walker); if it’s a product of only one distillery, it’s a single malt

(such as Laphroaig or hibiki); in ireland it’s spelled whiskey

(Jameson, Bushmills); ditto for america, where, if it’s from

Kentucky, it’s probably a bourbon, and if it’s from tennessee, it’s likely Jack Daniel’s (technically a ‘sour mash’).

it seems simple enough, but beyond the shared Dna, there’s an abundance of variety, deriving from the type of grain that’s used – barley, corn, rye – to the type of barrel it’s aged in – oak, sherry, port – to where it sits and for how long. it all matters because of the basic interaction between living organisms, molecules and the environment. it’s why the Bruichladdich 10, an ‘unpeated’ whisky from the isle of islay off the coast of southwest Scotland, retains a ribbon of smoke – it’s just what happens when your product is assaulted with brine and sea mist for a decade. this is part of whisky’s appeal: one could drink it for a lifetime and still be surprised by deviant strains.

Qianmen 23’s Johnnie Walker house (or JWh) – erected in 2012 and among the few establishments not leasing a renovated former legation — stands as both trove and monument to this process. inside, a Shanghai ad for red Label, circa 1928, trumpets the drink’s salutary effects as “good for the health and longevity.” raw ingredients peek from inside jars meticulously displayed on shelves in the basement lounge. there are bottles signed by the likes of Jude Law and Jackie Chan. Statues of the

‘Striding Man’ are ubiquitous.

Johnnie Walker was in China as early as 1910. it was kicked out, along with other foreign elements, after the Communist revolution, but returned for Deng

Xiaoping’s market reforms; it won’t be leaving anytime soon.

Last month, the sixth Master

Distiller in the company’s long history, Jim Beveridge, was invited to JWh Beijing to unveil two new products, the alexander

Walker and Sir alexander

Walker.

“the most important thing is: we want the public to appreciate Scotland’s culture, specifically Scotland’s whisky culture and Johnnie Walker’s culture,” says Liu Wei, JWh’s senior whisky ambassador. “if you’re here and enjoy whisky, you can experience all the warmth and comfort that it can offer.”

JWh’s second-floor Odyssey

Lounge is where the famous dine. they can store their own bottles inside a personalized locker, behind a glass door: it borders on chi chi, but celebrity and luxury has often produced that result.

although it began as a member’s club, there is a public bar open daily that serves practically every Johnnie Walker you could want, plus a unique selection of cocktails (see review). it’s here, over a Black

Label, platinum Label and a

King george v, that Liu tells me:

“Whisky is a process but as people try more, they’ll like it more and more.”

We talk about the prevalence of fakes, a topic that everyone in the beverage industry is sensitive to – though many admit being helpless to curb, since distribution is a multi-step process.

Brands like Johnnie Walker try.

Liu demonstrates his new Black

Label cap: the genuine article, once broken, will never align its label again (a hugely expensive procedure to develop that, Liu agrees, was prompted by the

China market). he also says bars are required to return JW’s fancier labels to keep empties off the gray market.

“i’d rather talk about how best to drink whisky,” Liu admits.

“You can add ice, or add water… if you add soda water, the carbonation can bring out the whisky’s flavor without changing it.

“Of course, there’s no prescription for how to drink whisky. if you enjoy it, that’s all that matters.”

JOhnnie WaLKer hOUSe BeiJing giLDeD paLaCe OF SCOtCh

BY rFH

D escending the stairs into the depths of the opulent

Johnnie Walker house (you can take the lift), you’ll smell the masculinity – it’s quite pleasant, actually. a blend of sandalwood and leather, the hint of smoke. get used to a certain kind of connoisseurship, as this house atmosphere is one of hushed gravitas. although it opened in December 2012 strictly as a vip club (a four-year stretch costs rMB800,000), members of the greater Beijing population are permitted into the public bar these days – a venue well worth at least one visit, if only to admire the surroundings. past copper-and-leather-clad walls lined with a fascinating array of single malts past and present (many, such as one signed by former guest

Jude Law, behind glass; a Diamond

Jubilee edition, meanwhile, is valued at rMB1.5 million), are meticulously labeled photographs, bottles and displays documenting the brand’s long history both in Scotland and China – it first arrived here in

1910.

the bar, which features a decent array of snacks (including haggis, rMB65), can be expensive, though not astronomical – it’s possible to buy a decent bottle of Johnnie for rMB430, for example. Slightly surprisingly, the main sell is the list of 30-plus cocktails, all named after significant years for Johnnie. the 1956, a blend of Black Label, Coke and cherry liquer

(rMB100), is a typical example – if you see one of those, Keep Walking.

// Tues-Sun 10am-12pm; B2, 7pm-12pm. Building F,

Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qian Men Dong Da Jie, Dongcheng

District 前门东大街23号 (6526 0609)

51

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

eat / drink

NEW RESTAuRANTS

ZeiT Berlin

WUnDer-Bar/reStaUrant

By Will Philipps

Z eit Berlin is a Chinese/ german restaurant with a history that’s come full circle. run by a family who emigrated to germany (where they ran a Chinese restaurant), they’ve now returned to Beijing to set up a brätwurst and weiner schnitzel loving Berlin-style dining hall.

it’s location is not going to do it any favours, tucked away down an industrial-looking lane off

Xiaoyun Lu, but walking into the space, you can see why they’ve gone for it. When you think

‘german’, a candle-lit dinner for two on the terrace does not usually spring to mind – more like the hogwarts great hall, with mile-long benches creaking under the weight of a hundred tankards of weissbeir. in Zeit

Berlin there’s enough space for all of that and the holy trinity of

Mai

theY DiD it Mai WaY

By Stephen George

F or a city that purports to loathe all things Japanese and breaks out in sporadic though regular bouts of angry (and occasionally violent) anti-Japanese demonstrations, there sure are a lot of high-end

Japanese eateries in Beijing. adding to this list is Mai at the table-based sporting activites: ping-pong, pool and foosball.

Yep, they’ve got all three.

it’s quirkiness meet comfort when it comes to seating, where a sofa-heavy dining room is peppered with kitsch trinkets.

We spotted some white plastic moose heads mounted on the wall, while a gingerbread house the size of a Mini sits next to the bar. You don’t ask why – you just observe and move on. pack this place full of sausage-guzzling, beery punters – perhaps with a World Cup final on the big screen – and you’ve got yourself a year-round Oktoberfest.

the menu is german classics with a Berlin street-food edge. if we were Chinese and looking for a good introduction to the nation’s food, we’d start here. german sausage with sauerkraut and mashed potato (rMB68); an XXL pork knuckle with sauerkraut and potato (above, rMB168 but slow-boiled Berlin-style, rather than roasted); currywurst

(sausage with curry sauce) and fries (rMB78). if you don’t like potato, get the hell out. if you do, it’s comfort food coma-time as helpings here are massive. the fried banana with honey and ice cream(rMB38) reminded us of disposable barbecues and family-feuding camping holidays. not a bad thing at all.

Can’t decide between Fanta or

Coke? those crazy Berliners have only gone and invented spezi, a combo of the two (but with a regrettable lack of tequila.) all things considered, Zeit Berlin is a slightly bonkers place. it’s german, but one can feel the

Chinese influence. We admire the eclectic style and hope

Beijing appreciates the eccentricity enough to keep it here.

// Daily 11am-10pm, inside Royam Palace

Hotel, 1F, 6 Xiaoyunli, Chaoyang District 朝

阳区霄云里6号城宝饭店内1楼 (151

1016 0573)

Westin Chaoyang. Why authentic, you ask? Because despite the glut of similarly priced Japanese restaurants in Beijing, few boast a leading Japanese chef such as

Kenji Maeda. Famed throughout asia for his signature dishes like cold inaniwa udon noodles

(rMB88) the 42-year-old Chiba native is steeped in Japanese culinary traditions – he also likes

sake, but we’ll get to that later.

attention to detail is evident throughout. From the stylish and clean modern design to the warm blend of wooden interiors and spacious seating arrangements – everything exudes laid back class. Maybe that’s why the restaurant also provides two exclusive private rooms for more intimate (or rowdy) encounters.

as you’d expect from such a restaurant, Mai offers all the usual big hitters, including traditional

kaiseki ryori set (rMB1,188) and melt-in-the-mouth Japanese

Wagyu beef (rMB488), both of which are prepared in front of your eyes on the teppanyaki live cooking counter and served with a set of delicious sauces.

But where it really impresses is the expansive fresh sushi bar. the prices aren’t cheap (a set of seven nigiri and three kinds of sashimi is rMB358), but the quality is hard to argue with. the fish is flown in daily from tokyo, and the freshness and taste is apparent in every bite – not bad for a land locked desert city like Beijing.

Mai also offers an enormous and exclusive selection of sake, eight of which are being imported into China for first time. as chef Kenji likes to explain, you can’t possibly hope to fully experience Japanese cuisine until you’ve become familiar with its most beloved alcohol. We certainly tried our best.

// Mon-Sun 5:30pm-10:30pm (lunch:

Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm), 7 North

Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东

三环北7号 (5922 8888)

52

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

the rUg, SanLitUn

pULLing it OUt FrOM UnDer theM

By Will Philipps

T he rug’s original venue at the south side of

Chaoyang park has won deserved praise with its menu of organic brunch, lunch and salady bites. its friendly and familiar style means we’d run two laps round a smoggy Second ring to have their Benedict for breakfast.

about time, then, that they’ve finally unfurled a second rug in a more central location – and the

‘wow’ factor is high. they should have kept the previous name for Chaoyang and called this one the red Carpet. Black-andwhite tiled floors bounce light from dangly filament bulbs over exposed concrete walls and an eclectic array of designer chairs and tables.

Best of all, on a sunny day its windows suck in an wonderful amount of natural light. We think the rug will be absolutely full of diners come summer. But it's got its work cut out if it’s going to be ready for them. the original set the standard high, and on the several visits we’ve made to the

‘The Rug has finally unfurled a second location – and the “wow” factor is high.’

Sanlitun branch, they’ve yet to fully acclimatise to the upgrade.

We waited a long time for our food, which came cold and staggered over agonisingly long intervals, along with the odd forgotten item (which seems to be the standard in Beijing). But it’s technically still in the soft-launch period (translation: teething- problems period) and already at weekends there are queues.

the food that does come is fully organic, and the vast menu has all sorts of egg centric brunch bites, salads, pastas, pizzas, curries and cakes. the owners say they’ve traveled the world in search of dishes, and the range tops pretty much any other competitor in the area. Corn fritters with honey ham (rMB138, above) are accompanied by large, juicy grilled vine tomatoes, the chunky, tangy avocado dip teeming with flavor, while the

shakshuka (rMB98), a tunisian fried vegetables and eggs in a skillet is vegetarian-friendly.

Some other options still need a bit of fine-tuning. the pesto on the chicken pasta is probably healthier than a branded jar you’d find in Jenny Lou’s but wasn’t nearly as tasty. and the

Margherita pizza was laden with so much stringy cheese that we couldn’t discern any of the promised home-made tomato sauce.

the organic food comes at a price, with serious fluctuation depending on ingredients. We wonder whether some will be put off the prosciutto pizza at rMB148, when the Margherita is rMB58. But who cares about money? their menu espouses

“food that touches your heart”

(with one hand, maybe, while the other silently caresses the

renminbi out of your wallet.) the rug might look like Western food at a glance but it’s still got a long way to go to stake a claim for torch-bearer of healthy,

Western-style brunching in the capital. Maybe choosing items based on menu photos (the menu is more like a portfolio) programmed our brains into

Chinese dining mode. if that didn’t, the Chinglish-laden slogans (how did that happen?) and cutesy rabbit latte art certainly did. not that a restaurant shouldn’t be allowed to put any animal it wants on its coffee – we just wonder how the same people who designed such an attractive interior could be responsible for such crimes against style.

So that’s the crux of the rug,

Sanlitun. it looks absolutely fantastic, but there’s still a bit of work to be done with the menu. the original set the bar high; we hope it’s not long before the

Sanlitun edition follows suit.

// Daily 10:30am-10:30pm, Inside Electrical

Research Institute, 4 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区工体北路4号机电研究院

内 (6507 2342)

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

53

eat / drink

NEW RESTAuRANTS

Heng SHan Xiao guan

nOt tOO hOt tO hanDLe

BY Will Philipps

H eng Shan hui’s new venture, Xiao guan, sees them departing from their usual Cantonese dim sums and stir-fries to migrate north on the culinary map to hot pot territory. their new premises is adjacent to their existing branch off Xiao Yun Lu, and inside a minimalist interior departs from a typical steamy hot pot house.

there is, of course, some irony in critiquing the fare in a hot pot joint, given that we, the diners, are doing most of the cooking and seasoning. We only have ourselves to blame when any inattentive ingredient-stirring results in a stewed and lifeless bundle of greens that lost all their goodness half an hour before your rummag-

La tavernita

neW SpaniSh StepS FOrWarD

BY Will Philipps

a nother month, another new restaurant on Xingfucun Zhong Lu. that name doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, so we’ve been championing the concession as

‘Craft Beer Street’. although that might seem a bit unfair now, given the stretch is starting to resemble a united nations of nourishment: Chinese, French, ing chopsticks plucked them from the depths of the pot.

it's in light of this, we suspect, that hot-pot supremos like hai

Di Lao owe a large part of their popularity to impeccable service and the overall dining experience, rather than the actual food itself. the attentiveness of heng Shan’s waiting staff is defintely comparable.

Back to the food, and in spicy hot pots, regardless of what vegetable or animal part gets submerged, it always seems to come out tasting overwhelmingly of chili – and that’s before you’ve dipped it into your bowl of condiments – most likely, containing even more chili.

Choosing something less hot might see you accused of being a spice girl, but the Special pork

Soft Bone Base (rMB128/pot) at heng Shan is a smoky alternative, and its peppery flavor

–ladle it into your bowl for a pleasant starter soup – is more subtle than the Sichuan red hot

Chili Base (rMB78).

heng Shan's Cantonese ancestry might encourage you to try some Shrimp Wantons

(rMB38), while the meat ranges from standard pork (rMB32) and lamb slices (rMB58) to american Style prime Marble

Beef (rMB138) and Supreme tendered Beef (rMB268). Lastly, we have to recommend the tofu plate (rMB58), which at first glance resembles a cheeseboard, and offers numerous shapes and consistencies of the rubbery curd that are perfecting for soaking up every last drop of broth, spicy or not.

// Daily 11am-3am, 101-105 Kerry EAS

Logistics Building 1 North, Xiao Yun Lu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路21号嘉里

大通大厦1号楼北楼101-105号 (6466

1211) both sides of the Mexican border and now Spanish, with La tavernita.

La tavernita, in keeping with the rest of XFC’s eateries, is unpretentious, with an affordable menu, yet clearly has some brains in the kitchen. and local knowledge: it’s Spanish operated and refreshingly (for all of about

2 minutes, mind) the team aren't all that fluent in english. But what i like about this Spanish restaurant in China is that it actually resembles a Spanish restaurant in Spain – understated interior of white walls, dark wood and stainless steel. What i also like is the fantastic array of imported and reasonably priced (starting at rMB60/100g) chorizo, jamon and other iberian cold cuts, available to purchase over the counter.

that's the idea, as coming here at lunchtime it feels like a deli/ café type place, but come Friday night you could fill its upstairs with a hoard of clamouring

Catalans and you may as well be in Barcelona’s trendiest tapas bar.

tapas, of course, features heavily on the menu and includes a healthy selection of jamons, cro-

quetas and queso. the Manchego cheese with iberian loin (rMB25) is sure to satisfy any homesick

Spaniards.

For mains, the valencia style paella (rMB110) was recommended as the chef’s pick. the quite monstrous pan (their largest can feed 16, apparently) of the gloopy rice was not the kind of sweet corn yellow you might expect, but a golden hue with a rich tomato flavor to complement the chicken and rabbit. rather startlingly the valencian also purported to contain

‘Jewish’, which google translate later revealed was a mistranslation of ‘green bean’. Cleary the chinglish has been rubbing off on La tavernita: suppose it is, after all, a Spanish restaurant in

China – but an entirely welcome one at that.

// Daily, 11am-3pm, 5;30pm-midnight,

55-3 Just Make Building, Xingfucun Zhong

Lu, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区幸福村中路

杰座大厦55-3 (6417 5598)

54

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

NEW RESTAuRANTS

tetSU

it'S BUSineSSMan tiMe

By Will Philipps

T etsu is one among the many Japanese restaurants over in the

Maizidian/Liangmaqiao area, the tone more a convivial sake and noodles joint rather than a tranquil, tatami mat floor covered, tea and sashimi house. its speciality is motsu (intestine hotpot), which provides a broth for their signature pulled noodles, imported all the way from hong Kong. Sister restaurant, Kotetsu, specializing in udon and yakitori sits next door.

By the time we ducked our heads under the obligatory noren slitted entrance curtain (yes, we’re looking these words up) most of the meagre crop of tables were already occupied – and, reassuringly, mostly by suited and booted Japanese businessmen types. top buttons undone, ties loosened, godzilla-proportioned bottles of sake uncorked: we suspect the consuming of intestine would be far from the most daring of their evening’s activities.

We’d recommend the dish, though (rMB98). if you can get over the toughness, you’ll be rewarded with a rich, stewy flavor that’s much more interesting than, say, the fried chicken tatsutaage (rMB58), essentially a fried chicken flavor you’ve tried countless time before. the hotpot is decorated with a verdant lawn of jiucai greenery (Chinese chives). those Japanese and their gardens…

We complemented the broth with Japanese hokke mackerel

(rMB88), larger than your average mackerel and oily and meaty enough to not need seasoning (but thankfully filleted for this western fusspot); a crunchy Caesar salad Japanease-style (sic); what is the nation’s obsession with this salad? Our waitress had no idea – answers on a postcard please; and some octopus pre-dressed in wasabi

(rMB28) – thus sparing you the danger of a self-inflicted overdose.

Save perhaps for the Caesar, all recommended.

tetsu’s shoulder to shoulder interior certainly creates some atmosphere – but so did the billowing clouds of smoke puffed out from seemingly every other diner. We didn’t hang around after settling up

– the chill January air outside making for a welcome respite.

// Daily, 11:30-2pm, 6pm-1am (last order 12pm), Longbao Building, 36 Maizidian Jie,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区麦子店街36号龙宝大厦 ( 186 1133 2968)

Address: Gongti Dongmen 10-11, behind the secret door inside

Stadium Dog (6593 8227)

Email: [email protected]

Since 2009

Orig

The eas eak l Sp ina y

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

55

56 eat / drink

NEW bARS

enTourage

Bring the WhOLe CreW

By Will Philipps

Y ou shouldn’t have any problem bringing your whole entourage to this sleek new Central park schmooze pit, such is the alarmingly accommodating customer to empty chair ratio – or at least it was on our weeknight visit.

this probably stems from their decision to be a cocktail bar, which is not in a hotel, outside of Sanlitun – commendable. You could say that’s a bold move, but it really shouldn’t have to be, (we don’t imagine all of

Shanghai’s bars are in a single square kilometer), plus it’s slap bang in the middle of expat enclave Central park, and opposite monster mall the place. and don’t think it’s about this place doing anything wrong; they’re not (except, perhaps, for the tv screen broadcasting ice-hockey). Spacious and stylish, good music, intriguing and not naff artwork on the walls

(part of the owner’s personal collection), and the all important drinks list makes for some tempting reading. We’d take a date there.

the signature cocktails (rMB70) are a bit trashy sounding: Flame passion, Whiskey party, Fizzy

Melon. But what’s in a name? they all taste good and they took a reassuringly long time to prepare. good range of single malts and other spirits, too.get there between 5 and 9pm for their selected 2-for-1 happy hour

– leaving plenty of time to be back in Sanlitun for dinner.

// Daily 10am-1am, 102, Blg 14, Central Park,

6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝

外大街6号新城国际公寓14号楼底商102

(6597 0544)

X-hOUSe

FOr peat’S SaKe

BY anthony tao

T he first Scotch that tony

Li, owner of Beijing’s newest whisky bar, pulls off his shelf is a Braeval 12. i’ve barely conjured the words to describe the bottle’s shape when he’s moved on to the allt-

á-Bhainne, setting it down on the counter. proud without being protective, he shows me the auchroisk 30, then a signatory

1982 vintage of Linlithgow 28.

“i own the 29th bottle,” he says, pointing to a label that indicates only 351 were ever produced.

i relay this anecdote not to highlight Li’s collection, which is extensive – he owns more than 400 kinds of single malt by his estimation, possibly more than anyone else in mainland

China – nor do i seek to convey refinement, as if vintages are supposed to impress you. (i’ll briefly mention that Li also owns a half-dozen bottles signed by

Charles Maclean, which probably doesn’t mean anything if you’re not into Scotch, but if you are: holy peat!) rather, it’s merely to say that tony Li – whose first single malt was a simple Macallan – is a whisky lover, through and through. that he would not own a whisky bar almost seems like a prodigious waste.

“i can enjoy any whisky that has strong characteristics,” he says, which is why, later, we share an entry-level Caol ila 12

(rMB53), followed by a 14-yearold Laphroaig from the exclusive cask of aD rattray (rMB105). a special sweetness peeks through the iodine and smoke in the latter, with lingering citrus and spice. Li dabs a drop onto the back of his hand and rubs it, then sniffs, explaining: “this is how you can figure out the cask

[sherry or oak].” it’s this love for whisky that inspired Li to open X with his wife nancy. their establishment is technically called X-house, and is actually split into six distinct segments, including a restaurant, cocktail lounge, wine cellar, cigar room, and yet-to-be-opened cafe. Li will happily talk about oysters, steak, caviar and wine, but it’s his whisky bar – single malts only, all lined up along one wall – that energizes him.

“i want others to enjoy these,” he says. “i think a lot of people want this, but they’re priced-out elsewhere.” the word Li uses, multiple times, is ‘supermarket,’ as in: he wants to sell his product at supermarket – not hotel – prices. thus, a one-ounce pour of Cragganmore 12 is only rMB49, a talisker 10 rMB52, and an edradour 10 – cloyingly delicious – costs rMB58. Bottles are for sale too: the smoky and complex Springbank 10 runs for a fair rMB588, an aberlour 10 is marked at a mere rMB330 (a fine beginner’s whisky, by the way), and an auchentoshan can be yours for rMB476. Supermarket whisky indeed.

We’ll note here that, if you’ve seen the average crowd outside

Sanlitun’s heaven on a Friday night, you’d be forgiven for remaining skeptical about the concept of a drinkers’ supermarket. But X isn’t actually that, of course: it’s a bar, a fine one with mood lighting, music that insinuates itself into your buzz, and nuts and raisins provided with every order.

near the end of my tour (i was there that night for a Belgian beer-and-ice-cream pairing organized by glacio; expect more of these type of tasting events at X-house), Li holds a bottle of Knockando 25 to the light.

“Look,” he says, marveling at the color: a rich burgundy, like caramel to the eyes. in this moment, he is neither bartender nor salesman, but a collector and admirer. he’s just a dude with 400-plus whiskys because he loves them – and hopes you might as well.

// Daily, 10.30am-2am, No. 5 Xinyuan South

Road West Tower Commercial Mansion No.

16-19, Chaoyang District 朝阳区新源南路

5号北京公馆西塔商业16-19号 (8447

4490; [email protected])

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

nBeer pUB

the n StanDS FOr niUBi

BY Stephen George

i t’s hard to pinpoint when it happened exactly, when the industrial mega-lagers – the

Foster’s and Carlsberg’s of this world, fell so totally and hopelessly out of fashion, when everyone you knew suddenly became an ale expert and buying a pint at your local bar became a character-defining life choice.

But happen it did. Beer, in case you haven’t noticed, has become to the under 30s, what wine is to the over 60s. Check out just about any decent bar anywhere in the world, gone are the generic taps, and in their place are an array of impossibly obscure brews, with names like “Old

Wimple Flaps” and “Sourfaced

Shit goblin.” the phenomenon, of course, is part of the wider gentrification of foodstuffs – the fetishization of produce – it’s no longer good enough for beer to get you wasted, today it has to be handcrafted with notes of organic rhubarb. take the disingenuous concept of “Craft beer” – even piss weak tsingtao, churned out in factory-sized vats and sold by the bucketful to drunken half-wit holidaymakers in thai clubs is produced – and thus “crafted” – by someone. the real difference,

‘It’s no longer good enough for beer to get you wasted, today it has to be handcrafted with notes of organic rhubarb’

ale enthusiasts will tell you, is the taste, and of course that’s true.

Only a moron would argue otherwise. no one likes Fosters. not even the people who “craft” it.

So why the hate? Because nothing kills a good night faster than listening to people discuss how their beer tastes. and herein lies the problem with nbeer pub.

With a seemingly endless selection of beers from around the world, it is destined to become a magnet for the type of tedious shit-churning bores that ask to sample a beer before buying it. Which is a shame. Because it’s among the very best bars in

Beijing. even the music is good.

Compounding these problems, is nbeer pub’s bizarre location. hidden away inside a fake republican era faux-gothic monstrosity, mid-way down huguosi Jie’s

Disney studio lot recreation of a traditional Beijing street, it’s not the sort of place you can just “pop by” – it’s a veritable day trip. So, all considered, is it worth the journey way out west? From what we saw, yes. there’s no smugness or pretentiousness here, yet. Just a genuine, if obsessive, love of beer. the pub is split roughly into four: there’s the massive wall fridge – easily the city’s biggest

– housing close to a thousand beers from places as far flung as transylvania and newton abbot, with prices ranging from rMB25 to rMB2,000. there’s the bar with over 35 taps (rMB25 to rMB55) serving just about every microbrew you’ve ever encountered in China, including

Slowboat, Jing a, tipsy Face, panda Brew and great Leap, and many you haven’t – such as tibetan red ale, Master gao’s (Chengdu) and harvest

(nanjing). there’s long raised bench style-seating, with enough space to accommodate around 50 patrons. and finally, there’s the onsite

DiY brewery. Unlike other microbrews, nbeer pub allows you – for the sum of rMB1,780

– to “craft” your own 20-liter keg. Making use of their expert knowledge, the team will guide you through the fermentation process, step-by-step. the result: a unique personalized brew, rich in whatever flavors you happen to have thrown in the mix, that you can choose to take home, or connect to the taps and share with the world. they even promise to chuck in custom designed labels as part of the deal. honestly, it’s an inspired idea.

With Beijing now packed full of microbreweries and import beer bars, nbeer pub is positioning itself as an authority of sorts – a type of laid back beer arbiter.

Whether the city needs one is another question, but for now, we’re more than happy to give our assent.

// Daily 3pm-late, F1-6, 1/F, Huguo Xintiandi,

85 Huguosi Dajie, Xicheng District 西城区

护国寺大街85号护国新天地一层F1-6

(8328 8823)

57

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

community

tiger father

PRETEEN PASSION

LOVE IN THE TIME OF THIRD GRADE

By tREVoR mARSHALLSEA

W hen I became a father of girls two things happened.

Half the population laughed and rubbed their hands together, chortling that I’d get my just desserts for how I’d treated their people as a single man.

(When I didn’t understand this at all, I asked my wife for an explanation. When I didn’t understand that either I just dropped it.)

The other thing was I had to decide what approach I’d take to parenting. It seemed a simple choice between two sets of values… Victorian or Edwardian.

In time, though, I opted for

‘groovy.’ I realized as the girls grew up there’d be no use fighting what the heart wanted and nature demanded. I decreed the two of them could start dating as soon as they turned 30.

But this Valentine’s month I’m reeling in shock. Our eldest,

Lani, is only eight, but already the heart-tingling idea of love has reared its ugly head. It’s only the third grade but boyfriends and girlfriends are all the rage.

In the wonderfully transparent style of the playground, the targets of ‘crushes’ have been firmly decided, and publicly declared in formal announcements.

There’s also a game, a bit like

Truth or Dare, in which girls have to nominate boys at school in one of four ‘categories of the heart.’ It’s called Kiss, Marry,

Punch, Kill. It baffled our girls a bit when I explained how, when we grow up, we usually attach ourselves to one person, and that that person ticks all four boxes, but they’ll learn.

I didn’t start with girlfriends until the ripe old age of 10. At one game-changing school camp everyone acquired a girl/boyfriend as a grown-up thing to do while away from our parents

(and with the grace of piranhas on a carcass).

My best friend was a girl, Kerryn

Johnstone. It seemed we were sat next to each other every year. We figured this was fate – that our hearts should beat as one. It wasn’t until years later I realized it was because of alphabetical order.

Kerryn and I decided we should naturally become boyfriend and girlfriend. The result, of course, was the immediate cessation of all contact. We could no longer be seen within 50 meters of each other for fear of being teased. It was a huge relief that our relationship finally got back on track when, in the language of the time, I “dropped her.”

Leanne Miller was next up. She’d asked me to “go with her” four times before I acquiesced, telling her softly that it was her

“reward for having guts.” After a few weeks of more no-contact I knew this one had run its course too. I respected her, however, and felt it needed to be ended

‘She was sure he was her soul mate until she made a shocking discovery. Was he seen with another girl? Worse – he wiped his nose on his sleeve’

nicely. So I asked my friend

Eddie Foster to do it.

Eddie rose to the task without a moment’s hesitation. I wish he had hesitated, because at that moment we were a good 20 meters from our class line-up when he screamed “Hey Miller! You’re dropped!” – and the poor girl shrank while everyone laughed and hooted.

I had my own heart broken in turn a few weeks later by Sonia

Favero. I loved her so, and had fantasies about her. Being 10, these comprised picturing myself taking out the bins, without complaint, at the home we would share. But that ended abruptly when Sonia done me wrong with an unforgivable act of betrayal. She had her hair cut short.

Nowadays, though, even the third graders are into it. But as lunch with Lani and her friends revealed, even at that age, love is a battlefield.

One girl was sure this boy was her soul mate until she made a shocking discovery. “Was he seen with another girl?” I asked.

Worse – he was seen wiping his nose on his sleeve.

Another boy had asked Lani’s friend out on a date. I asked what a “date” could possibly mean at that age, and was told that – “D’uh” – it meant a trip to the movies. Still, the plan was scuppered by a problem fairly common to the eight-year-old.

“He hasn’t got any money,” the friend told me. “So he said he couldn’t buy me popcorn. I’m not buying my own!”

Another girl was similarly dismissive of Lani’s crush interest.

“He’s too short,” she huffed.

“He’s only eight!” I said. “Give him a break.” But she was unmoved.

This girl has even informed ours what sex is, owing to the fact that she possesses that most useful of things: a big brother.

The explanation was relayed to us by Lani.

“Well, the man lies on his back and the woman gets on top of him,” she said. “And then the man puts his penis in the woman’s vagina, and he stays there for about an hour and then takes it out.”

Thankfully, for my wife was there, the big brother’s credibility was soon dashed by another revelation. It’s a fair bet he’s the only person alive who knows what sex is – give or take 58 minutes – whilst still believing in Santa.

Then again, they’re learning early these days.

// Trevor Marshallsea was a foreign correspondent in Beijing in the 1990s and returned a decade later. This time around he stays at home to grow the kids. Read more of his domestic adventures at www.

thetigerfather.com

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

health

HYGIENIc HOLIDAYMAKING

THE IMPORTANcE OF FOOD SAFETY ABROAD

By michelle Park

E

xperiencing stomach aches from local food is one of the most common maladies afflicting foreigners in China – from fresh-faced backpackers to old China hand expats. Since some that foreigners encounter here in China – we’re talking aniof the more, shall we say, ‘adventurous’ foods mals’ lung, heart, brain, intestines, blood etc. – are harder to digest, they can cause havoc for our uninitiated and pampered insides.

“Not many foreigners are really familiar with authentic chinese food,” says Dr Zhang, one of the directors of medical care at Passion International

Medical center, Beijing. “Peking duck in china, for example, is crispier, harder and oilier than what they have in their home countries. This won’t affect the sensation as you guzzle it down, but newcomers will find that their digestive system isn’t so good at processing all the new foodstuffs, commonly leading to diarrhea and a certain amount of discomfort.”

Dr Zhang, who graduated from the china University of Medical

Science in Shenyang, also spent ten years at the Mayo clinic in

Minnesota, USA as a visiting scholar and a research fellow

– where he himself experienced the shock to the system caused by a non-native diet.

Since working back in china he has found that many first time visitors to Beijing experience at least some slight stomach problems, mostly arising from the different spices and flavors used in chinese cooking. “Most importantly, you should avoid street food and undercooked meat if you have a sensitive stomach. Stomach aches can also be caused by allergic reactions to chemicals that are actually put into the water, often used in cooking. Bottled water is cheap and can be found in every cornershop, supermarket, and grocer.”

Diarrhea and stomach ache are quite common health concerns in Beijing. Dr. Zhang tells us that symptoms include loose stools, stomach cramps, acute nausea, vomiting and a high fever. To avoid diarrhea, make sure all food is well cooked and piping hot before eating and only drink bottled water wherever you travel in china. It’s recommended you carry around an alcohol based hand gel and wash your hands as regularly as possible. If you find yourself with a bad case of food poisoning, visit one of the many chemists throughout Beijing. You should be able to get by with hand gestures and a basic level of chinese from a pocket language book or app to tell them what’s wrong. “Why not ask someone at your hotel lobby to write down the problem?”

Dr. Zhang suggests. “Bring anti-diarrhea medication and charcoal tablets from home to be on the safe side and make sure you drink plenty of fluids for rehydration. You should be as good as new after a few days of rest!

“Foreigners mostly struggle with the different medical system here in china being so unlike what they get back home, as many chinese hospitals are packed and with little privacy to be found. However, if you have good health insurance, you can probably find more hospitals or clinics where you can be checked straight away.” So even if you’re a marathon-running fitness freak, it’s highly recommended to travel with health insurance – accidents always can happen. Also make sure you keep all documentation

‘Stomach cancer is currently on the rise in China, and the disease kills about 300,000 people here each year’

related to any medical expenses that you may incur.

The handling, storing and preparing of food are the most important areas to tackle in order to reduce the possibility of food contamination. “Bacteria and parasites can travel happily with the wind, float in water, hitch lifts with dust and reside snugly in the soil,” Zhang warns. “They are a part of nature’s web of life and will always be a possible source of contamination if not dealt with appropriately as part of a consistent and dedicated approach to food hygiene.” So if you want to eat out, be sure to pay attention to the conditions of food and food service hygiene. That cheap and easy street food fix might not look so appealing if there’s a lengthy hospital stay involved.

On a more serious level, stomach cancer is currently on the rise in china, and the disease kills about 300,000 people here each year. Furthermore, it is the most common cancer among women in china. Western fastfood is very popular here – especially amongst young people

– and it contains high levels of saturated fat, simple carbohydrates, and sugar, with much processing and little nutritional value. “As a nation moving rapidly through an economic and nutritional transition,” Dr.

Zhang warns, “hopefully china will soon discern the recent links between health scares and a Western-style diet before beginning to reconsider the idealized image of Western fast food.”

59

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

events

pick of six art exhibitions

Xu Zhen, a Madeln

Company Production

Ongoing. UCCA Great Hall and Lobby,

798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu,

Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区酒仙

桥路4号798艺术区([email protected]

cn, 5780 0200)

Beijing

Voice:

Relations

All month. PACE

BEIJING, 798

Art District, 2

Jiuxianqiao Lu,

Chaoyang District

朝阳区酒仙桥路

2号798艺术中心

(5978 9786)

Wonderland: Ana Tzarev solo exhibition

Until Feb 25. 10am-6pm, closed during the Spring Festival. 2F and 3F exhibition hall of Building 1, Today Art Museum, Pingod community, 32 Baiziwan

Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区百子湾路32号苹果社区(958760600-100, www.todayartmuseum.com)

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

“N12-No. 5”

Ongoing.

Beijing Commune,

4 Jiuxianqiao Lu,

Chaoyang District

北京市朝阳区酒仙

桥路4号798艺术区

(8456 2862)

Gregory Burns in China 1984-2014

Until Feb 27. 10am-6pm. Closed during Spring Festival. 4F, exhibition hall of Building 1, Today

Art Museum, Pingguo Community, 32 Baiziwan Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区百子湾路32号苹

果社区4号楼 (5876 0600 www.todayartmuseum.com)

Gabriel Orozco Chicotes

Ongoing. Faurschou Foundation Beijing, 798 Art District, 2

Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (59789316)

events

Events are editors’ picks of the best activities and are not comprehensive. To list an event, email [email protected] urbanatomy.com. For some details, see Listings.

FEB 2

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: RetroDance Chinese New Year

Count down to the year of the Horse with Tangsuan Radio's RetroDance team DJs Demone and Brass Funky

Joker.

// No cover, 9pm, Dada (see listings)

FEB 2 TO FEB 5

COMMUNITY

Workshop: CNY Street/Travel

Photography

Want to learn how to take better photographs without using Instagram?

This four day intensive workshop will combine technique, theory, on the ground shooting and post processing.

// 9.30am-1.30pm. Atelier, Room 202, Bldg. 3,

Jinxiu Yuan, Xingfucun Zhonglu 幸福村中路

锦绣园C楼202室

FEB 3 TO FEB 5

COMMUNITY

Workshop: Screen Printing

This workshop introduces the screen printing method in general and the various uses of this method such as printing on cloth (t-shirt), canvas, posters and so on. Finally, your own face on a t-shirt.

// 2-5pm. Atelier, Room 202, Bldg. 3, Jinxiu

Yuan, Xingfucun Zhonglu 幸福村中路锦绣

园C楼202室

SPORTS

Hike: Yu County’s Ancient Walled

Towns and Fireworks of Molten Iron

Make the most of the week off with a two-day trip out of Beijing. Almost four hours’ drive northwest of Beijing city is

Yu County, home to ancient pagodas, temples, pavilions, and large gates and plaques inside fortified walled towns.

// RMB1,800 (RMB1,620 for members), pickup at 8am from from Lido Hotel Starbucks, nr.

Liangmaqiao subway (www.beijinghikers.com)

FEB 3 TO FEB 7

COMMUNITY

Workshop: Introduction to

Photography

Looks like Spring Festival is all about the workshops. Beijing Academy of

Creative Arts (BACA) are running one on fire art photography suitable for all abilities.

// RMB6500, 10am-4pm.. A602, Yonghe

Mansion 雍和大厦, 28 East Street of

Andingmen, Dongcheng District

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: Ministry Of Sound Tribute Session,

Back to the 90's

Migas are ‘avin’ it large mate, proper

90s style, Kangol hats, cheap lager… and fit birds (we hope). All the big

ALL MONTH

eat: afternoon tea buffet at Flamme

“There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea.” So said Earl-Grey sipping writer Henry James and so say Flamme, who’d very much like you to dedicate a few hours of your afternoon to their tea buffet, which includes two cups of leafy brew (or coffee) and a choice of over 25 desserts, like macaroons, mille-feuille and chocolate chip cupcakes. For February it’s on offer for the special price of RMB98 for two people.

// Monday to Friday 2-4pm, RMB98(per couple), Flamme Indigo (see listings)

Feb 3

EaT & DRinK

COMMuniTy

WIN!

Two vouchers for afternoon tea at

Flamme indigo, email com ‘Flamme’

sports: nFL China oFFiCiaL superbowL party

NFL China hosts the official Super Bowl party at Kerry – pretty much the next best thing to actually being there yourself. Watch in style with a full American buffet breakfast, unlimited Budweiser, and even a few surprise guests. (Joe

Montana made an appearance at Kerry a few weeks back.) This year’s final is taking place in NYC, and though we can’t tell you which two teams will be pitted against one another, we are pretty excited about a Red Hot Chili Peppers half time show. Great excuse to get drunk in the morning, too.

// RMB2,800/table of 10 or RMB300/single ticket, (RMB188/child under 12), 7am, , Kerry Hotel, 1

Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号 ([email protected], 156

1190 6392) names from the glory days of UK house and trance on the sound-system. DJs Kiran Patel and Kai.

// Free before 11pm, RMB30 after, The Bar at

Migas (see listings for details)

FEB 4

SPORTS

Hike: Auspicious Village and

Huanghuacheng Great Wall

Head out to Huairou County for a countryside walk through farmland, hills, dales and valleys. There might even be a chance for a sing-song.

//RMB400, RMB360 for members. (64328038, [email protected], www.beijinghikers.

com)

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Chang Kuan & Baby Brother

Celebrated 80s rocker Chang Kuan resurrects his act for a crowd of young

Chinese with mobile internet and one foreigner, who will eventually write a book about him. DJ Ouyang supports.

// RMB150, RMB100 (presale), 9pm,

Yugongyishan (see listings for details).

FEB 6

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Bob Marley Day

Beijing’s annual Reggae party returns with live music from One Drop and DJs spinning the best of dancehall, reggae and dub.

// RMB100 (door), RMB70 (presale), 7pm,

Yugongyishan (see listings for details)

FEB 8

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Xu Jun

Gritty folk singer-songwriter from

Xi’an plays deep-chested tunes that you don’t doubt as anything but real, especially when he busts out his native

Shaanxi dialect.

// RMB40, 9pm, Blue Stream Bar, 183 Jiu Gulou

Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区旧鼓楼大

街183号 (158 1136 8566)

FEB 9

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Backtrack

Upcoming hardcore quintet from Long

Island, New York returns to Beijing to tour latest album Lost in Life. If you haven’t heard of them, take a gamble.

“Gambling has definitely made my life better, sometimes it’s made me want to kill myself, but for the most part, it’s made it a lot better,” says frontman

James Vitalo.

// No cover, Mao Livehouse, (see listings for details)

COMMUNITY

Talk: Looking for the Masterplan,

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

events

a Crash Course in Beijing’s Urban

Development

Why was the capital originally placed on the Huabei plain? And exactly where is the first ring road? (What, you didn’t read our cover story last month?) Lars Ulrik Thom of Beijing

Postcards explains all.

//4pm, RMB 75, includes a drink; students,

RMB 20 Reservations required: (86-10) 6702

2727, [email protected]

Capital M (see listings for details.)

FEB 11

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: The Lumineers

(see page 28)

// RMB260, (RMB200 presale), 8pm, Tango 3/F,

79 Hepingli Xijie, Dongcheng District 东城区

和平里西街79号 (6428 2288)

FEB 12

NIGHTLIFE

Music: The Tribesmen at Salud

Unique Central Asian folk music remixed with reggae and Spanish rumba flamenco. So hot right now.

//Free, 8pm. Salud (see listings for details)

FEB 13

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Magic Bus

With members hailing from London,

Tokyo and Beijing, this melodic rock posse provides the Brit rock required for a well-balanced diet.

//Free, 10pm, Temple (see listings for details)

FEB 13 anD 27

COMMUNITY

Health: Mindfulness and Body

Awareness Practice

Based on the eastern practices of qigong, yoga and meditation Dalida

Turkovic shares simple and effective ways to experience mind-body connection for increased confidence, focus and health. It’s that easy.

// 7:15, RMB100, cash payment only (RMB70 for early bird sign up 3 days before) Kocoon Spa, 1/F,

Taiyue Heights, 16 Nan San l i tun Lu, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区南三里屯路16号

([email protected], 132

4169 6021)

FEB 14

NIGHTLIFE

Comedy: Funny Valentine's

Girls love a guy with a sense of humor – so take them to see these guys.

Daniel Ryan Spaulding, featuring Kyrie

Gray Neil Fausero. Special Deals on

1421 wine from Xinjiang.

// RMB100 (includes two free shots), 9pm,

Fubar, (see listings for more info)

DJ: Ralph Zuckermann

This Berlin beatmaker returns on

Valentine's Day to give this town the deep house it needs. Come on, his name basically means “Sugar Daddy” in German. Basically.

// No cover 9pm, Dada (see listings for details)

Gig: Valentine’s at Mao Livehouse

Your girlfriend will surely be ready

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

EaT & DRinK

Valentines in Beijing

Valentine’s: the time of the year where reluctant Casanovas dust off their

A-game and get ready to cripple their current accounts with a romantic banquet for two. As well as the events below, and in the columns have a look at our six of the best on p.48. No date? There’s always “dating” app MoMo…

FeB 12

Dance: Square dance and singles mixer for Valentine's Day

Group dancing is a bit like speed dating without conversation – very easy to move on to the next date if the moves aren’t doing it for you.

//9-11pm, RMB30. Fubar, (see listings)

FeB 14

Valentine’s Dinners

Agua

Agua’s chefs have concocted the ultimate menu of attraction with tapas to share, lobster and, of course, some sparkling wine. RMB796/per couple.

// Agua, see listings.

Pinotage

Eat at the South African restaurant on Valentine’s and you and your loved one will be serenaded by a classical guitar playing minstrel. How romantic.

RMB888/couple.

// Building 2, 2-105, 1/F, Sanlitun SOHO, 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北

路8号三里屯SOHO2号楼2-105 ( 5785 3538) Also available at Shunyi branch, see listings.

Sureno

Head to the basement of The Opposite House for their 4 course set menu at

RMB328/person (wine pairing RMB298/person).

Intercontinental Beijing Beichen

4-course set menu is available at RMB798/couple, including a bottle of sparkling wine. Why not book a room for the night too?

// Intercontinental Beijing Beichen, 8 Beichen Xilu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区北辰西路8号 (www.intercontinental.com/bjbeichen, 8437 1188)

Westin Beijing Financial Street

Nothing says romance like an extravagant international seafood buffet.

RMB888/couple including 2 glasses of sparkling wine, a box of chocolates and a red rose for the lady.

// The Westin Beijing Financial Street,

9B, Financial Street, XiCheng District,

Beijing 100140 China 西城区金融大街

乙9号6629 7810 f&[email protected]

Renaissance Tianjin

Make a weekend break of it in Tianjin.

The Renaissance’s set menu is RMB328/ person; buffet dinner RMB388/person; and cocktail selection RMB 100/2glasses.

// Renaissance Tianjin Lakeview Hotel, 16 Binshui Lu,

Hexi District, Tianjin 天津市河西区滨水路16号

(5822 3388) for loving after hours of diddling her cellphone as you mosh to some of

Beijing’s biggest indie bands, such as crowd favorites Residence A, Glow

Curve, Los Crasher and more.

// RMB100, RMB80 (presale for singles,

RMB140 for couples) 8.30pm. Mao Livehouse

(see listings for details)

Gig: Rap crew In3

For twelve years this Beijing underground hip hop crew, led by the infamous In3, has cut up traditional music samples, embraced native rhyming patterns and collaborated with everyone from DJ Wordy to rap-metal

Twisted Machine. Plus, they’re great for learning Chinese swears, such as

“got so much style it’ll rip you a second asshole.”

// RMB100, RMB70 (presale), 9pm.

Yugongyishan (see listings for details)

Valentine's Day at Lantern Club

Er… we can’t think of many places in

Beijing less romantic than Lantern club, but then again maybe that’s not such a bad thing. Games and drinks deals.

// RMB50 (ladies free), 8pm, Lantern (see listings for details)

DJ: Valentine's at CICADA

Treat that special someone to the very best this Valentine's Day with bottles of Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé at

RMB1,314 and a menu of handcrafted champagne cocktails. Resident DJ

Vinnie Q will be spinning some sultry soulful sounds all night.

// No cover, 9pm, CICADA Ultralounde (see listings for more info)

EAT/DRINK

Eat: Valentine’s Day Dinner

Let the Italian Chef Nadia, take you on a culinary journey with a 5-course set menu with wine pairing featuring signature specialties from Venice and its surrounding villages.

// RMB1,088 per couple (food only), RMB1,314 per couple (including wine pairing) subject to 15% service charge. The Westin Beijing

Financial Street, 9B, Financial Street, Xicheng

District 金融街威斯汀大酒店, 西城区

金融大街乙9号 (6629 7815, f&[email protected] westin.com)

FEB 15

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: Trap Dong

Local crew Digital Freedom/Raw Meat swing Trap all night long and slap their big bass in your face. Trap, if you didn’t know, is the new Dubstep. Just another genre you’ll look stupid dancing to.

// No cover, 9pm, Dada (see listings for details)

DJ: Psyfidelity

GoaProductions DJs Dan, Anan,

Rigelmade and Nomi spin a night of trance for the right price.

// RMB40, 10pm, Mako Livehouse (see listings for details)

Gig: Nova Heart

These Beijing rock ambassadors return from touring Europe, Australia and

Madagascar (we know) with new tunes to try on their hometown. DH and the Chinese Hellcats, Da Bang and Jia

Huizhen support.

// RMB100, RMB70 (presale), 9pm,

Yugongyishan (see listings for details)

Gig: Tursun

Xinjiang flamenco guitar virtuoso shows he's got the fastest chops and curliest mane of hair in the West.  

// RMB40 (RMB30 pre-sale), 9pm. 69 Café, 109

Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng District 东城区

南锣鼓巷109号 (6403 2869)

COMMUNITY

Talk: Childbirth Preparation

How to make the birthing process as comfortable as possible, from creating a healthy birthing environment to utilizing deep relaxation techniques.

Scary stuff. 3 weekly classes (total: 12 hour course).

// RMB2500 per birthing couple, 9am-1pm,

Beijing United Family Hospital and Clinics,

2 Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区将

台路2号 ([email protected], http:// chinahypnobirthing.com)

Community: Charity Fashion Show

The Charity Fashion Show is an annual event held by students in the

International School of Beijing.

Proceeds go to Hope Healing Home, a home for orphans in Beijing. The show showcases both designs from students and attire from actual brands.

// RMB50-100, 7-9pm, International School of

Beijing (ISB), 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 顺

义安华路10号 (8149 2345)

FEB 16

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Before My Life Fails

Japanese screamo quintet Before My

Life Fails tour China. Saving Molly, Shut

Up! Shut Down! support.

// RMB120, RMB90 (presale), 9pm.

Yugongyishan (see listings for details)

FEB 17

COMMUNITY

Movie: Blue is the Warmest Color (dir.

Abdellatif Kechiche)

This one won Palme d'Or at Cannes last year, so it's legitimate and not just an esoteric excuse for a 10-minute lesbian sex scene. French with English subtitle.

// Free, 9pm, Dada (see listings for details)

FEB 18

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: Beer and Rock Night

Like drinking beer? Like listening to loud rock music? This pioneering event has both.

// No cover, 8pm, Fubar (see listings)

COMMUNITY

Talk: Barriers to Fluent

Communication Training Session

Sometimes we either are unaware, or not sensitive to, what blocks progress in the way we communicate. This talk will change all that. We find a few beers generally helps.

// 7pm RMB110 presale, 125 RMB RSVP,

200RMB walk-ins, Zeta Bar, Hilton Beijing,

1 Dongfang Lu, North Dongsanhuan Road,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北路东方

路一号(www.fcgroup.org, [email protected],

139 1109 8002)

FEB 19

Feb 15

niGHTLiFE

GiG: the beijinG beatLes

Newly opened Basement Club in Sanlitun South is converting itself into the world famous Cavern Club, where the Beatles played 292 times between 1961 and 1963 (8 days a week, presumably). The Beijing Beatles (who else?) are rolling back the years to provide Basement with the sounds of the swinging sixties. “In the town, where I was born…”

//RMB100, 8pm till late. Basement club, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, (opposite Kro’s Nest & QMex)

Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (

aRTs

ALL MONTH

FiLm: asian Cinema week CaLLs

For submissions

Made a parody rap video about Beijing? Or a hilarious new take on Gangnam style? Pur-lease – serious entries only. Asian Cinema Week 2014 is teaming up with JUE festival and are calling for submissions for the best short film. Docs, animations, music vids and fiction films are all welcome.

//Please email: [email protected], or send your films (under 20 minutes) on DVD to Split Works

Office, 74 Dongsishisantiao, Dongcheng District 东城区东四十三条74号亚洲电影周办公室

8408 4637

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: Beijing Creatives Group

Choice indie shorts show at this meetand-greet for the local creative community.

// 7pm, Dada (see listings for details)

COMMUNITY

Film: The Blinding Sunlight (85 mins)

A profile of the real lives of those people who live in the southern part of Beijing, criticizing the incomplete

Chinese educational and social welfare system.

// 7pm, RMB20. Zajia Lab, Doufuchi Hutong,

Jiugulou Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区

鼓楼北锣鼓巷旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同

(8404 9141)

Film: Indie Short Films

The Beijing Creatives Group will show some choice indie short films at this meet-and-greet for the local creative community.

// No cover 7pm, Dada, (see listings for details)

FEB 21

EAT/DRINK

Drink: Wine Talk, A Flight of Greek

Wine

Discover the delicious diversity and rare excellence of the new wines of

Greece with China resident and fifthgeneration Greek winemaker Mihalis

Boutaris. Or just get sloshed.

// 7.30pm, RMB138, Capital M, 3 Floor, 2

Qianmen Pedestrian Street, Dongcheng

District 东城区前门步行街2号3层 ( 6702

2727)

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Buyi

Veteran rockers from West China’s

Ningxia celebrate the lunar new year with a stellar set and one of the best session keyboard players around.

// RMB80, RMB50 (presale), 9pm, Temple (see listings for details)

COMMUNITY

School: Harrow Open Day

Harrow International School Beijing are holding an open morning in

Hegezhuang. Come and visit the students and staff of Harrow School

Beijing and tour the whole school (age

2-18) focusing on areas relevant to your children.

// 8.45am-12pm, Harrow International School

Beijing, 287, Hegezhuang Village, Cuigezhuang

County 崔各庄乡何各庄村287号 (register at [email protected], www.harrowbeijing.

cn, 6444 8900 exit 6900/6000)

FEB 22

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: Taxxeee Tapes Vol. 3

Local producer lineup 87 fei 87 lay out their beats to see whose swings the lowest.

// No cover, 9pm, Dada (see listings for details)

Gig: The Beijing Dead!

Your new favorite tribute band. No shoes or shirts required.

// No cover, Jianghu Bar (see listings for details)

DJ: SVEN VATH

Sven Väth is the undisputed figurehead

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

events of the German club scene and the head honcho behind labels like Eye Q and Cocoon Recordings. His name is also undeniably badass.

// RMB200 presale, RMB300 at door, 10pm,

Beijing Tango, 79 Hepingli Xijie, Dongcheng

District 东城区和平里西街79号 (www.

gettickets.cn)

ARTS

UCCA Selects: Distant

Tang Zhengfan’s first work, Distant, uses thirteen fixed shots to depict the daily lives and dramatics of a city in southern China.

// RMB20, UCCA Members RMB10; free for

2013 UCCA Members. 4.30pm, Ullens Center for

Contemporary Art (UCCA) (see listings for details)

FEB 26

COMMUNITY

Film:Shanghai Shorts Showcase

Not a collection of the city’s best cut off trousers, but in fact a selection of

Shanghai-shot short videos made by independent film makers and groups that inspire community-based film making.

// RMB20, 7.30pm, Zajia lab (see listings or details)

FEB 28

COMMUNITY

Charity: Books at Atelier

Buy books and magazines at Atelier

(most French, some English) and all the money will be donated to www.

couleursdechine.org, a French NGO raising money to provide education to children in Guangxi.

// 9.30am-6.30pm, Atelier, Room 202, Bldg.

3, Jinxiu Yuan, Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区幸福村中路锦绣园C楼202室

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: Stuff'd DJs

Donald Summer spins house that can be best described with many different adjectives.

// No cover, 9pm, Dada (see listings for details)

Gig: Carsick Cars CD Release

Chui Wan support (see page 29).

// RMB100, RMB80 (presale), 9pm,

Yugongyishan (see listings for details)

EVERy WEDnEsDay

COMMUNITY

Game: Mashup Pickup Basketball

Don’t have time for a full league?

Work always makes you travel? Those chaps in the NBA taking it all just a bit too seriously? Join mashup. Weekly games, 3 full courts and plenty of fun for everyone.

// 7.30-9.30pm, BCIS in Shuangjing (www.

mashupsports.com)

EVERy saTuRDay anD sunDay

COMMUNITY

Art: Canvas Social Painting

Canvas Events host awesome social painting parties at Gori. No experience needed, just bring some creativity and unleash your inner Monet.

// RMB200, 2-5pm, fee covers art instruction

Feb 22

COMMuniTy

FiLm: spray paint beijinG

(LanCe Crayon)

You don’t see much of it around, but these guys have been to capture some

Beijing street art firsthand. The first documentary ever made about graffiti in

China captures the art’s momentum in the capital over the course of a year and also reveals a handful of the artists, foreign and Chinese, who draw on walls when no one’s looking (English subtitles).

// 5pm, RMB20, Zajia Lab, Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼北锣

鼓巷旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同 (156 0112 2252)

EaT & DRinK every SuNdAy

eat: baroLo seaFood sunday brunCh at the ritz-CarLton

Start your Sunday grazing the 5-star way with the Ritz-Carlton’s Barolo seafood brunch – it certainly beats a fry-up or the remainder of the soggy pizza you ordered the night before. The menu reads like a who’s who of deep sea superstars: scallop carpaccio, salmon caviar, Fine de Claire oysters, gratinated half lobster, roasted sea bass with mussel stew. There’s even a sea urchin omelette topped with salmon caviar. 5 star, indeed.

// Sundays, 11:30am-2pm; 2 courses: RMB 248per person, 3 courses: RMB308pp, 4 courses:

RMB338pp (includes free flow tea and coffee, free flow of Champagne Perrier Jouet Brut RMB

298pp) prices subject to 15% service; No.83A Jian Guo Lu, China Central Place, Chaoyang District and painting materials and coffee and cake.

1/F, Bldg AB, Ocean Office Park, 10 Jintong Xilu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区金桐西路十号远洋

光华国际AB座一楼 ([email protected] )

aLL MOnTH

ART

Exhibition: Xu Zhen, A Made In

Company Production  

Including over 30 installation pieces,

10 videos, 20 paintings, and several performances, this exhibition spans

Xu Zhen’s early works made in his own name, beginning in the late 1990s.

// Ullens Center for Contemporary Art, 798 Art

District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝

阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区尤伦斯当代

艺术中心 ([email protected], 5780 0200)

Exhibition:  Ji Dachun, Without a

Home

“Ji Dachun: Without a Home” spans several key moments in the artist’s prodigious career and includes a new suite of works made specifically for this exhibition.

// Ullens Center for Contemporary Art, 798 Art

District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝

阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区尤伦斯当代

艺术中心 ([email protected], 5780 0200)

Exhibition:  Art Post Internet 

“Art Post-Internet” presents a broad survey of art that is controversially defined as “post-internet,” which is to say, consciously created in a milieu where the centrality of the network is assumed.

// Ullens Center for Contemporary Art, 798 Art

District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝

阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区尤伦斯当代

艺术中心([email protected], 5780 0200)

EAT/DRINK

Eat: Vamos Mediterraneo!

Sanlitun's mecca of Mediterranean restaurants – Agua, Migas, Mosto and Sureno – have teamed up to create a special voucher booklet offering Beijing residents special holiday promotions. Proceeds go to Morning

Tears charity who improve the lives of children whose parents are in prison.

// Runs all month until March 15, (see listings for restaurant details)

Drink: Love Is in the Air

As cupid’s arrow strikes, impress your significant other with an oversized cocktail for two at Plush Lobby Lounge or Buzz Bar.

// The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B,

Financial Street, Xicheng District 金融街威

斯汀大酒店, 西城区金融大街乙9号 (6629

7825, f&[email protected])

Drink: Chocolate Drinks

Calling all chocoholics: this month the Westin Beijing Financial Street is showcasing all different flavours of hot chocolate drinks and they’re pretty damn tasty.

// The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B,

Financial Street, Xicheng District 金融街威

斯汀大酒店, 西城区金融大街乙9号 (6629

7825, f&[email protected])

MaRCH 1

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: Santo Chino

Disco, funk, old school electro and proto-house courtesy of Computer

Love, Pei Sun and friends.

// No cover, 9pm, Dada (see listings for details)

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

beijinG duCks mid-season report

All to play for as the season draws to a close

BY Andrew Chin

A s the Chinese Basketball

Association (CBA) enters its All-Star break, the Beijing Ducks remain the league’s most potent wildcard.

The team currently sits tied for third at 17-8 but have stumbled in the new year, going 3-3 and losing their last two. With 13 teams competing for eight playoff spots, the next month is going to be critical for the

Ducks.

It’s been a frustrating season for the capital’s team. Two years after their Cinderella run to their lone CBA championship,

Beijing entered this season with arguably their most talented team yet.

Their championship core of two-time NBA All-Star Stephon

Marbury and former New York

Knicks center Randolph Morris were returning for their third seasons with the club, with Sun

Yue, who plays guard for the national team, newly recruited.

However, Marbury hasn’t played since injuring his left meniscus against Jiangsu in November and still needs time to recover from

‘With 13 teams competing for eight playoff spots, the next month is going to be critical for the Ducks.’

knee surgery. Promising second year forward Li Gun has been limited to 13 games, one more than former CBA Chinese scoring champion Li Gen.

But victories this season can be attributed to the brilliant form of Morris, shaking off the criticisms of a lackluster playoff performance last year. While

Sun’s impressive all-around game has strengthened his credentials as the Chinese Magic Johnson.

The Monkey King (strangely,

Sun’s preferred nickname) has led Beijing’s impressive roster of young national talent. Three of the team’s starters are under

25 and have provided key contributions.

Despite their recent stumbles, the Ducks are still in control of their playoff destiny – but there’s no denying February will be a dogfight. They close out their season with six games against teams with similar playoff aspirations and a prolonged losing streak could see the team tumbling out of contention.

With a bit of luck, though,

Beijing will enter the playoffs with a much improved squad.

Marbury is expected to return soon and while questions remain about how the 36-year old guard will look, his return will be a big boost to the squad. Either way, fans will be hoping for a repeat of the thrilling 2012 CBA championship victory, where the

Ducks edged out perpetual CBA giants Guangdong in front of a sold-out Wukesong Arena.

// Beijing Ducks play Shandong (Feb 5), Tianjin

(Feb 9) and Fujian (Feb 14), 7.35pm, RMB80-

1,500. Shougang Gymnasium, 159 Fushi Lu石

景山区阜石路159号 (400 818 3333, www.

t3.com.cn)

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

The Contenders

The CBA playoffs typically start one week after the regular season and follow a best-of-five format for the first two rounds before a best-of-seven finals. Here’s a quick look at the favorites to lift the Mou Zuoyun Cup.

Guangdong

Southern

Tigers (1st,

22-3)

Last season’s MVP Yi

Jianlian (21.4 points and

13.3 rebounds per game) leads a well-oiled team, including three CBA All-Star starters, who are heavy favorites to win their eighth title in 10 years.

Xinjiang

Flying Tigers

(2nd, 20-5)

It’s been a return to form for the perennial

Northwestern powerhouse and its basketball crazed owner. The team boasts the league’s second best defense and a solid starting five including

Chinese backcourt Muhtar

Xirelijiang and Yang

Jingmin.

Shanghai

Sharks (5th,

16-9)

It’s been a surprising season for Yao Ming’s team. New recruits Quincy

Douby and Darnell Jackson have combined with the ageless Liu Wei to carry the offensive load, while center Max Zhang leads the league in blocked shots.

events

WEEKLY SPECIALS IN FOOD AND DRINK

Happy hours Ladies’ nights Meal deals Brunch

monday to Friday

Mai Bar

Mondays, buy two cocktails, get one free.

40 Beiluoguxiang,

Dongcheng District东城区

北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641)

MONDAY TO FRIDAY

Agua

Mon-Fri, Agua’s new set lunch menu is

RMB118/person for 3 courses, including a range of traditional Spanish dishes like paella and slow-cooked eggs and sobrassada sausage and potatoes.

// RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm-2:30pm,

Agua Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun

Beilu, Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北

路81号那里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188)

Greyhound Café

5pm -7pm, only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud ,and RMB38 for a Mojito or Dry

Martini.

// Greyhound Cafe (see listings for details)

MONDAY TO SATURDAY

Twilight

Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun,

RMB20 off cocktails.

0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39

Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang District朝

阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室

(5900 5376)

Flamme

Every Tuesday 2-for-1 steak all day.

3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun

Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳

区三里屯路19号三里

屯太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608)

TUESDAY TO FRIDAY

S.T.A.Y Restaurant

Tuesday to Friday 11:30am-2:30pm Three courses including coffee and tea for

RMB388/person with 15 percent service charge.

Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, 29

Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian District 海淀区紫竹院

路29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727)

Mao Mao Chong

Wednesday 7-11pm, cocktails RMB35.

12 Banchang Hutong,

Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie,

Dongcheng District 东城

区交道口南大街板厂胡

同12号 (6405 5718)

Black Sun Bar

Women get 2-for-1 cocktails, guys get 30 percent off beer.

Chaoyang Park West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝

WEEKEND BRUNCH AT NIAJO

The weather won't be getting warmer for a while, but that doesn't mean you can't spend your Sunday mornings pretending to be basking in the heat of a

Catalan coastline, Don Quixote in hand – bucket of sangria well within reach.

Well, not quite, but we reckon a weekend brunch at Spanish restaurant Niajo might be the next next thing. For RMB186 you've got a three course meal, peppered with Iberian delights like Spanish pisto, seafood paella and veal tenderloin, as well as some starter tapas and a drink. Pay an extra RMB150 to go free-flow on wine and beer. Vamos!

// Saturdays and Sundays, 12pm-3pm, Niajo, 3rd Floor, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园三层 (5208 6052)

阳区朝阳公园西门 (6593 6909)

Elements

9pm-1am, free mojitos, champagne and

Cosmos.

58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工

体西门58号 (6551 2373)

Eudora Station

8pm-12am, ladies ordering food from the ladies’ night menu receive free drinks from the same menu.

6 Fangyuan Xi Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳

园西路6号 (6437 8331)

Four Corners

Buy two get one free martinis for women.

7 Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城

区大石杯胡同7号 (6401 7797)

Q Mex

Free margaritas for women.

4 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体

北路4号 (6585 3828)

Starfish

4-11pm, ladies enjoy 3 Kumamoto oysters with a glass of Prosecco for RMB150.

22-1 Dongzhimen Outer Street, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区东直门外大街22-1号 (6416

5499)

The Stumble Inn

9pm-midnight, ladies get free mixed drinks and RMB20 martinis.

S3-31, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli South, 19 Sanlitun

Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号

三里屯太古里3楼3层S3-31(6417 7794)

9pm-12am, free drinks for girls.

Gate 8, West Gate of Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区朝阳公园西门8号 (6500

3377)

Vics

Free drinks for ladies until midnight.

Inside the north gate of the Workers’ Stadium,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北门内 (5293

0333)

Bar Blu

Free cocktails for ladies until midnight.

4/F-6/F Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Hou Jie,

Chaoyang District

朝阳区三里屯酒吧北街同里4层-6层

(6417 4124)

Hidden Lounge

9pm-12am, free drinks for ladies.

Room 101, Bldg 8,

CBD Apartments,

Shuanghuayuan Nanlier

Qu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区双花园南里二

区, CBD总部公寓, 8号楼101室

(8772 1613)

Opus Terrace

5-8pm, ladies enjoy free cocktails; on

Fridays, its Bachelors Night, where chaps get 50 percent off beer and burgers for the same times.

Daily 4pm-1am, Sun bunch 12-4pm, Opus

Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 (5695 8888)

Xian

9pm – 12pm all ladies can drink selected martinis, cocktails and mixed drinks for free! All with live music and Dj.

Xian Bar, EAST, Beijing - 1/F,22 Jiuxianqiao

Road, Chaoyang District

朝阳区酒仙桥22号北京东隅酒店一层

( 8414 9810)

XIU

Mon-Thurs 6-9pm, buy one get one free on selected drinks.

6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianguomenwai

Street 北京柏悦酒店, 建国门外大街2号6

楼 ( 8567 1108)

Zeta Bar

9pm-late, head upstairs to the “ladies’ only” section for free cocktails.

2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu, Chaoyang

District

朝阳区东方路1号希尔顿饭店2层(5865

5050)

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

The Big Smoke

Daily 4-7pm, 20 percent off all cocktails, house wines and beers.

57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝

阳区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼 (6416

2683)

Blue Frog

Daily 4-8pm, buy one get one free all drinks.

S4-30, 3/F, Building 4, Sanlitun Taikooli

South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳

区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区4号楼

3层S4-30 (6417 4030)

Centro

Daily 5-8pm, two for one deals.

1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Shangri-la's Kerry Centre

Hotel Beijing, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光

华路香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层

(6561 8833 ext. 42)

Chill

Daily 4-8pm, RMB10 off any beer.

2 Andingmen Xidajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳

区安定门西大街2号 (6405 9575)

Cuju

Daily 6-9pm, buy one get one free draft beer, mixed drinks and soft drinks.

28 Xiguan Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城

区西管胡同28号 (6407 9782)

Eudora Station

Daily 4.30-7.30pm, buy one get one free on all alcoholic drinks.

6 Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区芳园西路6号 (6437 8331)

EvEry day

Flamme

cocktail, beers and wine by the glass

50% off from 3pm to 7:30pm daily.

S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Gongti Beilu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里

屯太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608)

Modo Urban Deli

4-7pm cocktails, house wine RMB25, Beer

RMB15.

S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Taikooli South,

19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三

里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区8号楼S10-

31 (6415 7207)

Mosto

6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine and beer.

Nali Patio 3rd Floor, 81 Sanlitun Beilu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北路81号

那里花园 (5208 6030)

NOLA

3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on Pabst Blue

Ribbon, Tsingdao and all cocktails including Daiquiris.

A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai Dajie,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街秀

水南街A-11 (8563 6215)

R Lounge

Daily 6-9pm, two for one standard drinks and cocktails.

4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, 61

Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝

阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4

层 (5863 8112)

Transit

Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one.

N4-36, Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 Sanlitun

Lu, Chaoyang District. 朝阳区三里屯路11号

三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)

Union Bar and Grille

Daily 4-8pm, discount beer & cocktails.

3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli Bldg 5, 19 Sanlitun Lu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号院

三里屯太古里5号3层S6-31单元 (6415

9117)

Zeta Bar

Daily 6-9pm, half price drinks.

Hilton Hotel, 1 Dongfang Lu,Chaoyang District

朝阳区东方路1号希尔顿酒店(5865 5000 ext. 5050)

The Rug

A la carte brunch menu offered daily from 10.30am-5pm, ranging from rmb48-

RMB138.

1/F, Bldg 4, lishui jiayuan, Chaoyang

Gongyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区

朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4号楼1楼(8550

2722)

Bene Restaurant

Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes antipasto with main course, pizza or pasta.

Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Dongcheng Beilu,

Dongcheng District 东城区北三环路36号

(5798 8888)

Cafe Sambal

Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats and vegetables each, varying daily. With soup, appetiozer for RMB78. Curry sets from RMB55-65

See Listings for details

Beijing Marriott Hotel

Daily 11.30-2pm, Complete with dumplings,noodles,congee and dessert favorites,including chilled fruit juice or

Chinese tea for RMB118. Sun and Sat

11.30-2pm, Dim Sum with a lobster and unlimited beer for only RMB168.

26A Xiao Yun Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳

区霄云路甲26号 北京海航大厦万豪酒店

(5927 8888)

Vivid

Daily, 6pm-10pm, happy hour, buy-oneget-one-free for all wines and cocktails.

Vivid, Level 5, Conrad Beijing, 29 North

Dongsanhuan Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳

区东三环北路29号北京康莱德酒店5层

(6584 6310)

Taverna

Daily 11am-2.30pm. Two courses and coffee/ tea for RMB78. Add a glass of wine for RMB30 or dessert for RMB20.

Courtyard 4 ,Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District朝

阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8882)

Transit

Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of appetizers, mains, rice or noodles with dessert for RMB88.

N4-36/37 Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 Sanlitun

Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号

三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)

R Lounge

Selection of drinks for free all night.

61 Dongsanhuan

Zhong Lu,

Chaoyang District

朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4

层 (5863 8241)

One East

Sun 12-3pm,

American-style set lunch from

RMB188, plus DIY bloody mary bar for an extra RMB98. Prices subject to

15 percent surcharge.

2/F, Hilton Hotel Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu,

North East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区东三环北路东方路1号北

京希尔顿酒店2层 (5865 5030)

Qi

Sun 11.30am-2pm, all you can eat dim sum including one double boiled soup for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle of

Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two.

Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street,

1 Jin Cheng Fang Dong Jinrong Jie,

Xicheng District 西城区金城坊东金融街1

号 (6601 6666)

Senses and Prego

Sun 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious

Champagne Brunch, international and

Asian specialties with free flow champagne, wines, cocktails, and juices for

RMB 458. prices subject to 15% service.

The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B

Financial Street, Xicheng District 西城区

金融大街乙9号(6629 7810)

Seasonal Tastes

Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for

RMB428-498 per person plus 15 percent surcharge.

Westin Chaoyang., 7 North

Dongsanhuan Road, Chaoyang District

朝阳区东三环北路7号(5922 8880)

Sureño

Sunday lunchtime, 3 or 4 courses for

RMB298 or RMB328 with desserts,

Both include soft drinks and juices,

Champagne package is RMB200, cocktail package is RMB150. Prices subject to 15 percent service charge.

Bldg 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang

District

朝阳区三里屯路11号1号楼 (6410 5240)

Vasco’s

Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet with free-flow champagne for RMB458 plus 15 percent service charge.

Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8

Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng

District 东城区王府井东街8号(5812

8888 ext. 8411)

Saturday and Sunday

Agua

Sat-Sun, Agua’s Sombresa Weekend

Brunch is RMB198 per person and includes 5 tapas to share (portioned depending on party size) a main course and one dessert. Add RMB98 for free flow red or white sangria or Agua de Valencia

(cava + orange juice).

// 12pm-2:30pm (free flow until 3pm),

Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu,

Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北路81

号那里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188)

Aroma

Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15 percent service charge.

Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jian Guo Road,

China Central Place, Chaoyang District

朝阳区建国路83甲(5908 8161)

Café Sambal

Sat-Sun, RMB98, Café Sambal are rolling out weekend brunch with a rotating menu of Malaysian delicacies, like

Kapitan and Nasi Lamak. Three courses plus coffee, tea or fruit punch.

43 Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie 旧

鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同43号 (6400 4875)

Colibri

Sat-Sun 9am-2pm, any dish from brunch menu for RMB48, or add a cup of coffee for RMB58.

LG51, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Sanlitun Taikooli

North, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里

屯路11号三里屯太古里北区地下层51

(6417 0808)

Enoterra

Sat-Sun 11am-4pm, a la carte brunch for

RMB75-130. Free-flow sparkling wine for an extra RMB80.

4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu 朝阳

区三里屯北路81号那里花园4楼D308号

(5208 6076)

Eudora Station

Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet with one main and free-flow juice or coffee for RMB98.

Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi Lu.

Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西路6号

(6437 8331)

Sui Yuan

Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am-

2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for RMB128 plus 15 percent surcharge.

Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen

Waidajie, Xicheng District西城区广安门

外大街168 (6338 1999 ext. 1726)

Yi House

Sat-Sun International set menu for

RMB308.

Grace Hotel, Bldg 2, 1 706 Hou Jie,

Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Art District,

Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院

798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818)

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

events

CITY SCENES

Shock? Disgust? Overexcitement? Futility? All the classic Christmas emotions were on show at the Tiger Xmas Livehouse Crawl.

The dress code was “so far over the top it hurts” at the CICADA

Ultralounge Blanc Party.

Cheers to those cheekbones! Some fantastically good-looking people grace us with their presence at RELEASE in UCCA, 798.

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

China Self Storage join the ISB Community Vendor Fair in welcoming

50 new families to the ISB community. CSS introduced its storage services through banners and brochures and the two lovely ladies pictured above.

Great Leap Brewing

celebrated three years in

Beijing with the Karl Long challenge – can you keep your shiort on all night?

Answer: no.

After successful competitions in 2007 and 2009, Yi He 42 Hot Yoga held its third Yoga competition last December at its Solana branch. 100 contestants took part in the competition and 70 won different awards. Professional instructor Tomasz from Absolute Yoga and the founder of Yi

He 42 Hot Yoga attended the event. 100 people doing hot yoga? That’s a looong queue for the shower.

Migas DJ rips it up, pulls silly face.

Some qipao wearing ladies propping up the bar at the launch of new

Sanlitun bar Parlor.

The Johnnie

Walker Whisky

House displays some of its most exclusive whiskies. Too exlusive for backgrounds that’s for damn sure.

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

70

LISTINGS

Dasha, Xingfucun Zhonglu (next to Frost Nails), Chaoyang

District 朝阳区幸福村中路(Frost旁边)(6417 5430)

Win a dinner voucher for two at Indian Kitchen.

Email [email protected] urbanatomy.com

‘Indian Kitchen’

Expensive...................................

¥

Expense Account ....................

¥¥

RESTAURANTS

Recommended .........................

*

Top Ten ....................................

**

Baoyuan Jiaoziwu (Chinese regional)

Famous for their rainbow of dyed dumplings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under

RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian options and authentic Sichuan food.

// Daily 11am-10pm. North of 6 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967)

THE HOT ONE HUNDRED

About This guide represents our editors’ top

100 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability.

Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) 

*

Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the

Piedmont wine it is named after.

// Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton Hotel,

China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿酒店

内 (5908 8151) 

29 Grill (Steak)

*

Top-notch steak, along with just about every other cut of meat found in the barnyard in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca.

// Tues-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm. 3/F Corad Beijing, 29

Dongsanhuan Beilu. Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北

路9号1层 (6584 6270)

Beiluo Bread Bar (Cafés)

This local hipster café favorite offers inhouse baked bread and sandwiches but we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles.

Gets cozy at night.

// Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng

District 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷)

(8408 3069)

Ai Jiang Shan (Korean)

This upscale seafood restaurant proves that chargrill and composure can go together.

Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute bargain.

// Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm. 5/F, LG

Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai Dajie,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号双子

座大厦东塔5层 (51096036/6037, for other locations visit http://www.aijiangshan.com)

Bellagio (Taiwanese)

Where else can you carve through mountainous shaved ice desserts and suck down creamy bubble teas at 5am? A favorite among the city’s hip and young, this swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is best enjoyed long after dark.

// 6 Gongti xilu Chaoyang District 6 号 工体西路(6551

3533) See www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for more locations

Agua ¥ (Spanish)

Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish invasion, Agua excels with reasonably priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo and jamon.

// Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81

Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那

里花园 (5208 6188)

Bene ¥ (Italian)

*

Chef Ricci will have you singing like a soprano with his pork ravioli and prizewinning tiramisu. Excellent set menus

(RMB588) and extensive wine selection.

// Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton Beijing

Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, Dongcheng

District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 8995)

Alfie’s (British)

What’s all this about, then? British gastropub classics, (like pukker fish and chips, RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club interior, and located in a chic modern art gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate.

// Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served on weekends, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 (5662 8777)

The Big Smoke (American)

Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full menu evenings-only (also delivers rotisserie chicken via Uncle Otis).

// Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm.

First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), 57

Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸福

村中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268,www.

uncle-otis.com)

IndIan KItchen

Mango beats the Malady

Given the historical and cultural affinity between India and China, you’d expect curry to be sold just about everywhere in China – yet somehow the opposite is true: good curry is as rare in China as it is on Mars. Fortunately, the ever brilliant Indian Kitchen is doing its best to change this sad state of affairs. Easily Beijing’s best curry house, this Indian expat favorite has expanded its menu to include regional delights such as the seriously delicious southern style Mango Chicken Curry (RMB60) and hearty Himalayan classic, the Chickpea Vegetarian Curry (RMB48) – both of which are guaranteed to help stave of the winter blues and remind you of summers ahead.

// Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区

三里屯北小街2号2楼 (6462 7255)

Allday’s (Café)

Japanese-owned Allday’s is an oasis of calm just outside the hustle and bustle of

Sanlitun. Plenty of options for a caffeine boost compliment a wide range of Western staples from the kitchen.

// Daily 7am-11pm, Unit 1, Tongguang Plaza, 12

Nongzhanguan South Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农

展馆南里12号通广大厦1楼底商 (6538 9488)

Aria ¥¥ (European)

*

A gold standard of opulence and, at RMB1,100 for the Wagyu beef and starters around

RMB150, the prices reflect that. In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal perfectly.

// Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sat-

Sun 6-10pm. Second floor, China World Hotel, 1

Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国

门外大街1号中国大饭店2层 (6505 0828)

Back Alley Bistro (Contemporary Western)

There’s not enough of this in Beijing: a cozy joint offering top-notch ‘California-style’ cuisine at bang-on price points. A fresh, revolving menu has everything from burgers (RMB 45/65) to braised oxtail (RMB138) to seared scallops (RMB148).

// Tues-Sun 11am-2.30pm, 5-11pm. West side of Jiezuo

Biteapitta (Middle Eastern)

*

Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel) and RMB58 kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta has the Middle-East mid-range market all wrapped up in a fluffy pitta.

// Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun

Houjie, Chaoyang District

朝阳区三里屯后街同里2层 (6467 2961)

Blue Frog (American)

This Shanghai hamburger franchise has been keeping Americans in China obese since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is always packed.

// Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S4 Tower, 81

Sanlitun Village, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区

三里屯路三里屯Village三层S4 (6417 4030, for other branches see www.bluefrog.com.cn)

Brasserie Flo ¥ ¥ (French)

*

Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm.

The grandeur is matched only by the service, and the prices reflect the authenticity of the experience.

// Daily 11am-midnight. 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135, www.flo.cn/brasserie/ restaurants/beijing)

Brian McKenna @The Courtyard ¥ ¥ (Contemporary Western)

*

Innovative and creative dishes are de rigeur at the Michelin-starred Irish chef’s reinvention of this long-standing Beijing fine dining institution.

// Daily, restaurant 6pm-10pm, bar 5-11pm, 95

Donghuamen Avenue, Dongcheng District 东城区东华

门大街95号 (6526 8883)

Burger Bar (American)

Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and truffles. Burger King this ain’t.

// Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-midnight,

B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road 朝阳区东大

桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二层 ( 5690 7000)

Café Ricci (Contemporary Western)

An excellent example of how Italian sensibilities can meld peaceably into a Chinese context, Ricci offers a range of fusion creations, like Sichuan spicy-chicken focaccia

(RMB45) and a spicy mocha coffee. It’s a paradise for those with a sweet tooth, too.

// Daily 8am-9.30pm 1/F, Keji Dasha Tower D, Bldg

8, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 Zhongguancun Donglu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区中关村东路1号清华科技园

8号楼科技大厦D座1层 (8215 8826 http://riccicafe.com)

Café Zarah (Cafés)

Red armchairs, table candles and a matching

Gaggia machine harmonize the creamy, minimalist interior of this cafe, popular with young professionals. The Austrian-style breakfast sets here are the real deal, while

Zarah’s coffee also trumps just about any in town.

// Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng

District 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807)

7am-10pm 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie,

Dongcheng District 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号

(6512 2277, ext. 6101)

Colibri (Cafés)

Its cheery, brightly lit veneer, spacious seating and wide tables make it the darling of the Macbook freelancer crowd.

While it serves a variety of standard café fare, the main attraction are its wide array of colorful delicious, generously frosted,freshly-baked cupcakes.

// Sanlitun Village North11 Sanlitun Lu, Level LG51 (bet.

Dongzhimennei Dajie & Gongti Bei Lu) 朝阳区三里屯

路11号三里屯Village北区LG层51号 (6417 0808)

Crescent Moon (Xinjiang)

*

Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim restaurant. Eastern European and Central

Asian influences are evident throughout, with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes livening up traditional Chinese favorites.

// 弯弯月亮 16 Dongsi Liutiao 东四六条16号

(6400-5281)

Da Dong (Chinese, Peking duck)

*

Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da

Dong guarantees slick carvings of Beijingstyle roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is hard to follow.

// Daily 11am-10pm. No.22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng

District 22号 东四十条甲 (5169 0328 See www.dadongdadong.com for more locations Daily 11am-10pm)

Da Gui (Chinese Guizhou)

Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nestled into a charming traditional alleyway.

Munch happily into pickled greens and don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black sesame balls. They’re sensational.

// Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm. 69 Daxing Hutong,

Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口大兴胡

同69号 (6407 1800)

Dali Courtyard (Chinese Yunnan)

*

If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard setting. The price (RMB120pp) matches the rustic ingredients.

// Daily Midday-2pm; 6-10.30pm. Gulou Dong Dajie, 67

Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼

东大街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430)

Cafe Sambal (SE Asian)

When it comes to Malay-style food in a hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, it’s something of a niche category, but then so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitan- style chicken is pricey, but worth it.

// Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just east of

Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng District西城区豆腐池胡同43

号 旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875)

Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex)

Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a bite of the custardy flan.

//Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, S4-

32 South Block, Sanlitun Village, 19 Sanlitun Lu,Chaoyang

District, 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区

(6416 5212)

Capital M (Contemporary Western)

**

The Art Deco interior, swish staff and breathtaking views over the archery towers from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of al-fresco dining, with world-class modern

European stylings and deliciously posh afternoon tea. Our 2013 editor’s pick for restaurant of the year.

// Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen Buxingjie,

Chongwen District 东城区前门步行街2号3层 (6702

2727, www.m-restaurantgroup.com/capitalm/home.html)

Cepe ¥ (Italian)

In a city inundated with Italian offerings,

Cepe manages to stand out thanks to it’s attention to the smallest detail – everything from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham is import quality, and the wine is superb.

Consider it the culinary equivalent of a finely tailored suit.

// Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The Ritz-Carlton

Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Jinrong Jie,

Xicheng District

西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店

大堂 (6601 6666)

Chef Too ¥ (Contemporary Western)

With its crisp white tablecloths and service, this upscale New York diner serves up some of the classiest burgers in town.

// Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm; Tue-Sat

5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West gate, Chaoyang Park,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6591 8676)

Chi (Western)

Hutong dining par-excellence, with organic ingredients all locally sourced, from the owners of neighboring Saffron.

// Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 Wudaoying

Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道营胡同67

号 (6445 7076)

Chuan Ban (Chinese Sichuan)

*

This bright, modestly decorated dining hall is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan restaurant.

// Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; Sat-Sun

Din Tai Fung ¥ (Shanghainese)

This Taipei-based franchise impressed

Ken Hom enough to call it one of the best

10 eateries in the world, back in 1993.

Famous for its dependably delicious xiao-

longbao or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s always a long wait.

// 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm Weekends 11.30am-10pm.

Yu Yang Branch (渔阳店): 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili,

Chaoyang District, Beijing 朝阳区新源西里中街24

号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462 4502), Shin Kong Place Branch (

新光店): 6/F, Shin Kong Place, China Center, 87 Jianguo

Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing 朝阳区建国路87号

新光天地6楼D6001号 (西大望路口)(6533 1536),

Parkview Green Branch (芳草地店): LG2-20,B2 Floor,

No.9, Dongdaqiao Road, Chaoyang District,Beijing 朝阳

区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦LG2楼 (近世贸天

阶(8562 6583), Xidan Branch (西单店): F1&B1, Grand

Pacific Mall No.133 Xidan North St.: Xicheng District,

Beijing 西城区西单北大街133号君太百货B1楼 (近

西单大悦城) (6615 9028), Modern Plaza Branch (当代

店): 7th Floor, Modern Plaza, No.40 Zhongguancun St.,

Haidian District, Beijing 海淀区中关村大街40号当代

商城7楼 (人民大学对面) (6269 6726)

Duck de Chine ¥ (Chinese, Peking duck)

*

Good duck is meant to show your guests how wonderful you are, as much as the food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, with fantastic presentation of its crispy, succulent duck (RMB188).

// Daily 11.30am-2.30pm; 6-10.30pm. Courtyard 4,

1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881): 98 Jinbao Jie,

Dongcheng District 东城区金宝街98号 (6521 2221)

Ding Ding Xiang (Chinese hot pot)

*

Classier than most hot-pot joints, Ding

Ding XIang features a spacious dining

BeIjIng MarrIott northeast hotel IndIan

Feast in the Northeast

This Valentine’s Day, why not try something different? The first Indian eatery in a 5-star hotel in Beijing, the Marriott Hotel Northeast’s curryhouse has prepared a quite dazzling array of currys, kormas, biryianis and the like to light your special day up.

Try its Sinful Sunday - an elaborate 4 course menu plus dessert, including free flow champagne. On the menu are traditional entrees like butter chicken, lobster masala, kadai paneer; as well as some sweet and mouthwatering desserts like gulab jamun, and a selection of kulfis and ice creams.

A garlicy and aromatic curry might not seem like the best meal to share with your partner on Valentine’s but, hey, this is the country that gave us the

Karma Sutra.

// RMB399/pp for brunch, includes champagne, wine cocktails and beer and 5 course meal; RMB128 per child, includes soft drinks. Lunch, 11.30am-2.30pm; Dinner, 5.30-

10.30pm. Beijing Marriott Hotel Northeast, 2 F, 26A Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang District 海航

大厦万豪酒店二层朝阳区霄云路甲26号 (5927 8328, www.marriottbeijingnortheast.com)

OPEN DOOR

café saMBal

New digs in Fuxingmen

Win a set dinner voucher for two to this restaurant. [email protected] ‘Marriott

NE’

Win a dinner voucher for two at Cafe Sambal.

Email: prize[email protected] urbanatomy.com

‘Cafe Sambal’

Café Sambal – the original Malaysian hutong dining experience in the capital– just celebrated it’s 11th birthday, and now it’s welcoming a little brother to the world. Situated out in the wild west of Fuxingmen (where the local dining scene got a recent boost after an impromptu visit from one Xi

Jinping), the new space (see above) is in keeping with the fusion of modern and traditional South-east Asian stylings of the original in Gulou branch.

Get over there now to try their limited offer set lunch menus (RMB198 for

2 people, RMB388 for 4) which includes fresh Vietnamese spring rolls and satay chicken to start, and Kapitan chicken curry and prawn sambal for the main event. Classic Malaysian Tarik tea is included in the price, but they’re not going to stop you ordering extra drinks off their wine or cocktail list. Even at lunchtime.

// Daily, 10F North Bd. Parkson Department Store, #101 Fuxingmen Neidajie Xicheng

District Beijing 西城区复兴门内大街101号百盛购物中心北楼 10层 (6653 5120)

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

71

listings room of sweaty-faced patrons enjoying high-grade huo guo in their own individual pot. The delicious sesame sauce (the recipe is a closely guarded secret) is a Beijing classic.

// Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, Yuanjia International

Apartments, Dongzhimenwai, Dongzhong Jie (opposite

East Gate Plaza), Dongcheng District 东城区东直门外

东中街东环广场对面元嘉国际公寓2层 (6417 9289, for other locations visit www.dingdingxiang.com.cn)

Drei Kronen 1308 (German)

*

Authentic (in as much as any brauhaus with a Filipino cover band can be) displays of armour and brewing kits draw regular evening crowds for the superb pork knuckle (RMB148) and heavy-duty helles

(pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed on-site, RMB48-108).

// Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti

Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5

号楼1层(6503 5555)

El Gran Bocado (Mexican)

This unassuming little taquiera has a colorful menu of classic Mexican and Tex Mex dishes, and one of the best nacho plates we’ve had in Beijing.

// Daily 11am-midnight, 1/F, Just Make Bldg, Xingfucun

Zhonglu 幸福村中路杰作大厦1层 (6416 1715)

Element Fresh (Contemporary Western)

Another import from Shanggers, this is boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching, with somewhat questionable price tags.

The recent revamp also affected the latter.

// Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm. 833,

Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Village South, Sanlitun Lu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village

南区8号楼833 (6417 1318)

Eudora Station

No need to mind the doors – this Lido pitstop’s longevity tells you all you need to know. An American-style restaurant-bar, it caters comfortably for the local scene with a pool table, sports TV, rooftop deck, patio – did we mention the pool? Really, this place is solid: great beer selection and classic pub grub. Regular live bands keep the weekends swinging.

// Daily, 11am-2am. 6 Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区芳园西路6号 (6437 8331, www.eudorastation.

com) a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Tai Koo

Li Sanlitun then.

// Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun Road 19,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号楼 S1-30B

(64163439, http://www.greyhoundcafe.com.hk)

Green T (Contemporary Chinese)

Although the inspiration is ‘Tang Dynasty bathhouse,’ the effect is more ‘Whoah.’ An indoor tea bath occupies a slate-tiled space scattered with artistic curios, along side a vegetable allotment, outdoor Jacuzzi, wooden trestle table and 1,500-sqm villa.

The space has a design award by Wallpa-

per* magazine and came third in the Daily

Meal’s Top 101 Asian restaurants.

// Daily 11.30am-11.30pm. 318 Hegezhuang Village,

Cuigezhuang, Chaoyang District朝阳区崔各庄乡合各

庄村318号 (8456 4922 Ext 8, 136 0113 7132, 136 0113

7232; www.green-t-house.com)

Grill 79 (Contemporary Western)

*

With views this good, Grill 79 would probably make it onto the list even if the food was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then that the kitchen is superb, and supported by one of the most extensive wine lists in town.

// Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, China

World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒

店79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424)

Haidilao (Chinese hot pot)

Hot pot in China is like religion; everyone’s got their own brand. Either way, the raw meats and vegetables, cooked communally, is divine, and the outstanding customer service makes Haidilao a fitting church

// Daily, 24 hours. 2A Baijiazhuang Lu (beside No. 80

Middle School), Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家庄路甲2

号 (八十中学西侧)(6595 2982, for other locations visit http://www.haidilaohuoguo.com)

Hatsune ¥ (Japanese)

Less a Japanese than a California roll joint,

Hatsune is now an old favorite among the sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though less so among sashimi purists.

// Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg C,

8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路甲

8号和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939)

The Horizon (Contemporary Chinese)

*

Kerry Hotel’s recently rennovated Chinese restaurant has widened its predominantly

Cantonese and Sichuan horizons to include dim sum, double-boiled soups and Peking

Duck – and the roast bird here really is fabulous.

// Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing

Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心1

层 (8565 2188)

Home Plate BBQ (American)

*

Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker barbecue joint, that blossoms in the sunny months. Pulled-pork sandwiches are the favorites, followed by baby-back rib racks, but lesser dishes like the rib tips, sides and burgers are just as good. Beer and bourbons are taken care of, too.

// Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), Chaoyang District

朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路路口,往北走20米,到

第一个路口右转(5128 5584)

Flamme (Contemporary Western)

*

Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing.

Flamme (pronounced ‘Flom,’ apparently) remains top value, however, especially on

2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail menu.

// Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm Fri-Sat.

S4-33, Third Floor, Village South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯VILLAGE南区3

层S4-33室 (6417 8608): 269 Indigo Mall, Jixianqiao Road,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商场

269号 ( 8420 0270)

Four Corners (SE Asian)

Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, serving up steaming bowls of pho with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar.

// Daily 11am-midnight. 27 Dashibei Hutong (near west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng District 西城区大石碑胡

同27号烟袋斜街西口附近)((6401 7797)

Ganges (Indian)

Conveniently located above popular

Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid

Indian curry house provides the perfect post-match culinary accompaniment. Or put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving after eight pints of beer.

// Daily 11am to 10.30pm. 2nd Floor, 28 Dongzhimen Wai

Dajie, Chaoyang District

Dongzhimen Branch: 朝阳区东直门外大街28号2层

(6417-0900) Sanlitun Branch: 朝阳区工体北路13号世

贸百货1号楼2楼202室 (64160181)

See www.ganges-restaurant.com/en/ for more locations.

Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion)

Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok offering Thai food with a twist and served in

Hyoki ¥ (Japanese)

Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel

Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant of all private dining rooms has some stunning food, and is the only place to sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot in Beijing.

// 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road,

Chaoyang District

朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达北京酒店6层

(6581 0072)

Ibn Battouta (African)

Hidden away in the depths of Gongti, this charming little Moroccan eatery serves up superbly authentic north Africa fare at a modest price. Known for its excellent, attentive service, and cosy atmosphere.

// Daily 11.30am-3pm, 6-10pm. 4-103, China View, 2

Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路2号

中国红街大厦4-103(8587 1255, 139 1141 5052)

Inagiku (Japanese)

This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s oldest and most celebrated restaurants is as near to perfection as you’re likely to find.

Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB 80) is not to be missed.

// Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm. Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life,

Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District

朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生活3层315

室 (8517 2838)

Indian Kitchen (Indian)

The go to curry house among Beijing’s homesick Indian community, this ever popular no-nonsense restaurant has built up a solid reputation thanks to its wide range of quality dishes and particularly friendly service. Looking good after a recent rennovation.

// Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun

Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号

2楼 (6462 7255)

Isola Bar & Grill (Italian)

Isola’s elegant design, even by Tai Koo Li

North standards, is classic Italian panache – and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata,

Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are all fantastic, but just as good is a classic

Margherita pizza.

// Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo

Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区

三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47商铺 (www.

gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, [email protected]; 6416 3499)

Jade Garden (Chinese Shanghainese)

Southern cuisine in a sophisticated setting.

Jardin de Jade Jasmine-tea Smoked Duck

(RMB78), Xiaolongbao dumplings (RMB

22), Eight Treasure Rice (Babao Fan, RMB

22) and more. Particularly convivial on the weekends with Cantonese families gathering for dim-sum feasts.

// Daily 11am-10.30pm Bldg 6, Jiqingli, Chaoyangmenwai

Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝外大街吉庆里6号

楼 (6552 8688, for other locations visit www.jade388.

com/su/index.aspx)

Jing Yaa Tang (Chinese, Peking Duck)

Resembling something between a nightclub and theater, the Opposite House’s basement restaurant proves to be more than just style over substance with their range of classic dishes. Don’t ask about the double A, though.

// Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, Sanlitun

Bei Lu 三里屯路11号院1号楼瑜舍酒B1楼

La Dolce Vita (Italian)

This long-standing, quality, and refreshingly unpretentious Italian restaurant is a popular choice for young families. Wholesome pasta dishes, well-crafted wood-fired pizzas and a great range of dessert options come as standard.

// Daily 10.30am-10.30pm, 8 Bei Xindong Lu, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区新东路北段8号 (6468 2894)

La Pizza (Italian)

At the higher echelon of Beijing pizzeria is this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a woodfired oven and Neapolitan manners.

// Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, 3.3

Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里

屯路33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582) //

Solana Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang

Park Road 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾3号1层, SA-48

( 5905 6106)

Le Little Saigon (SE Asian)

Despite its odd obsession with Frenchoccupied South East Asia, this colonialthemed eatery is saved by its excellent beef

pho, select wine lists, and stunning rooftop views. It’s a little bit good.

// Daily 11.30-midnight 141 Jiugulou Dajie, Dongcheng

District 东城区旧鼓楼大街141号(6401 8465)

The Local (American)

This does exactly what it says on the tin:

Some of the best Happy Hour deals and pub grub the Sanlitun bar district has to offer. The staff are friendly, the barstaff are skilled at cocktails and they even have a

24-hour delivery service.

// Daily 6pm-2am. 4 Gongti Bei Lu (opposite 1949 The

Hidden City), Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路4号院

机电研究院内 (6591 9525)

Lost Heaven ¥ (Chinese / SE Asian)

An emphasis on Yunnan characterises this menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia passage, with a grandiose yet dark teak interior.

// Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am). Ch’ien

Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District 东

城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698)

Makye Ame (Tibetan)

Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine consists of more than just yak-butter tea, the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain serves up nomadic classics such as curried potatoes and roast lamb. The original cosy

Xiushui location is great for winter.

// Daily 10-midnight, 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街甲11

号, (6506 9616

Mercante ¥ (Italian)

*

Old World family charm in an intimate hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, service) slows with a rustic menu from Bologna offering an assortment of homemade pastas and seasonal mains.

// Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong,

Dongcheng District 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 5098)

Middle 8th Restaurant (Yunnan)

*

Make room for the mushrooms – especially the Kungpao – at this busy chain. Hip and slightly swanky, without being pretentious, this is a celebration of all things

‘south of the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried worms, or “crossing-the-bridge” noodles, beef jerky-style yak meat and fresh, wild herbs galore.

// The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South

Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝

阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431,

Sanlitun, Tai Koo Li and Indigo Mall branch details see www.middle8th.com)

Migas ¥ (Spanish)

*

The boys at Migas have turned a concept bar into a thriving Mediterranean restaurant, bar and party venue, and one of summer’s rooftop destinations.

// Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun

Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花

园6层 (5208 6061)

Mio (Italian) ¥¥

Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts a superb squash tortellini by hand, and pampers diners with desserts like the deconstructed tiramisu.

//Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm -10:30pm

Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liang Ma Qiao Road, Chaoyang

District, 北京四季酒店 亮马桥路48号, 朝阳区

(5695 8888)

Missa (Contemporary Western)

*

Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of meat or the long list of expertly made and creative cocktails going down your gullet, you can’t really go wrong at this refined relaxed lounge like restaurant. Highly recommended

// Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Village

North, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯Village北区3号

楼3层32-33 (137 1851 7917)

Modo Urban Deli

(Contemporary Western)

*

Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconventional and great fun, this compact eatery was designed around an ever-changing selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh tapas style food and original finger foods.

The luxury sandwiches are fantastic for picnics, with the smoked salmon and the

Cuban (RMB68), complete with crispy pork belly, is one of the best sarnies ever.

// Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm. 3/F,

Sanlitun Village South(close to Element Fresh), 19 Sanlitun

Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯

Village南区3楼(近新元素)

Moka Bros (Contemporary Western)

Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio space, which also has a great selection of cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more indulgent.

// Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am-11:30pm, B101b

Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu Chaoyang District 朝阳

区三里屯路81号B101b南楼 ( 5208 6079)

Morton’s of Chicago ¥¥ (American)

*

Meat so tender the knife falls through it: ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide praise. Expensive, but where else are you going to get steak this good? (Try the

72

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash)

// Mon-Sat 5-11pm, Sun 5-10pm. 2/F, Regent Hotel, 99

Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区金宝街99号丽晶

酒店二层 (6523 7777)

Mosto ¥ (Contemporary Western)

A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for modernising South American-style dishes like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen.

// Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon-2.30pm,

6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208

6030)

Mr Shi’s Dumplings (Chinese Beijing)

*

The ultimate in Beijing-style dumplings, they really don’t come better than this. Find it and you’ll never go elsewhere.

// 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng

District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 (8405 0399,

131 6100 3826)

Najia Xiaoguan (Chinese)

A hugely popular Manchu restaurant, first opened by an emperor’s doctor, you choose your dishes from a carved wooden tray: 18-hour stewed huang tanzi, fatty ox hoof,crispy fried shrimp, chicken with walnut. Reservations are required to get a place in this two-storey, quintessentially

Imperial China restaurant.

// Daily 1130am-10pm. 10 Yonganli (south of the LG Twin Towers, west of 119 Middle School),

Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国

门外大街永安里10号(双子座大厦南侧, 119中学

西侧)(6567 3663, 6568 6553)

NOLA (American)

N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers and cocktail also make NOLA a popular watering hole. Great service comes as standard.

// Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A

Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区秀水南街11

号 (8563 6215)

Niajo ¥ (Spanish)

*

Order the paella (their star dish) together with some tapas and be automatically transported to Spain. With homely Mediterranean influences and a charming management, Niajo is a prefect option to enjoy a pleasant meal at the heart of Sanlitun. Pro tip: a fantastic set-lunch deal is also offered.

// Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun

Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园

3层 (5208 6052)

O’Steak (French)

A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that rare anymore, and here we have affordable but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the Irish sounding name, not a pint of

Guinness in sight.

// Daily midday-midnight, 55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu,

Chaoyang District, 朝阳区幸福村中路55-7 (8488 8250)

Paulaner Brauhaus (German)

The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses,

Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the provinces. It can be pricey but is usually worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest.

// Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao

Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯

基饭店 (6465 3388 ext. 5732)

Pinotage ¥ (South African)

*

A seasonal blend of Dutch, English and regional African influences, this contemporary and stylish eatery has an impressive selection of fine import-quality meats, and wines to match. The traditional

borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork tenderloin (RMB120) makes the trip out to

Shunyi worth it.

// Building 2, 2-105, 1st Floor Sanlitun SOHO, 8

Gongtibeilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路8号三

里屯soho2号楼2-105 (5785 3538/5785 3539) Mon - Fri.

11.30am - 2pm

5.30pm - 9pm Sat - Sun 11am - 10pm Bar open. Mon to

Sun. 4pm - 12am Inside Chuangyi Yuan, 3A Shunhuang

Lu (near BD flower market ), Sunhe Township, Chaoyang

District .朝阳区孙河乡顺黄路甲3号创意园内(近北

东花卉市场)(84595868)

Purple Haze

Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches and ladyboy bars, Purple Haze has to make do for the best Thai experience in town.

Has all the classics like veggie spring rolls

(RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and curries

(RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the seafood pad Thai (RMB45).

// Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang District

朝阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899)

Raj (Indian)

Tucked away in musty old building just underneath the drum tower, this curryhouse may look Chinese but everything on the menu is authenticI Indian, espcially the rather fine naan.

// Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie

Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401-

1675)

Rumi (Middle Eastern)

Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty

Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful helpings of traditional Persian stews and tasty kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab, the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r.

// Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring Road

工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 (8454 3838)

Saveurs de Coree (Korean)

This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone several changes in recent years, not least its move away from the hipper-than-thou confines of Nanluguxiang. Fortunately, the menu remains largely intact. The Shin

Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too good to be true.

// Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, Dongcheng

District 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 5753)

Sherpa’s (Delivery)

OK. It is not technically a restaurant but

Sherpa’s is still an essential service: Your favourite restaurants delivered to you. Across three cities, Beijing, Shanghai and Suzhou:

258 restaurants. 75,817 dishes ready to order. Have whatever you want delivered fast and fresh.

// www.sherpa.com.cn

South Memory (Chinese Sichuan)

This chain restaurant redefines Hunan cuisine, with exquisite food and an elegant atmosphere. The trademark shilixiang

niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse

yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and meltingly tender frog dishes are among the favorites with local gourmands.

// Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18

Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝外

大街18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797 for other locations, visit www.southmemory.com)

Southern Barbarian (Chinese regional)

*

Yunnan’s wide selection of savory, sour and sweet, all in a smart hutong setting, with a ton of beer selections to boot.

// Daily 11am-11pm. 107 Baochao Hutong, Dongcheng

District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同107号(6401

3318)

Sake Manzo (Japanese)

**

The barmen here are serious about their sake. Boasting one of the best stocked drinks cabinets in town with over 60 different sakes on offer, this super-cool little eatery is the perfect place to unwind after a hard day’s toil. The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the beer-marinated chicken is out of this world.

One of the very best and least appreciated restaurants in town.

// Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436

1608)

Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar ¥¥ (Contemporary Western)

*

The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus start from around RMB428 and merrily spiral. But the meat is unquestionably succulent, and cooked exactly to order. Quality seafood and gorgeous desserts, too.

// Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. InterContinental

Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District 西

城区金融街11号北京金融街洲际酒店 (5852 5921)

Starfish ¥ (Seafood)

*

Beijing’s leading oyster bar, Starfish is among the very best seafood restaurants in town. Renowned for its friendly, warm atmosphere, this stylish low-key restaurant is great for late-night dates, or just hanging out along the large wooden bar and enjoying an Irish rock with a craft beer.

// 22-1 Dongzhimen Wai,  Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直

门外大街22-1号(6416 5499)

S.T.A.Y. (French)

Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred chef Alléno Yannick’s back-to-basics kitchen concept, managed by the youthful team of Maxime Gilbert as ‘Chef de Cuisine’ executing the quarterly menus, and Florian

Couteau working the ‘pastry library.’ Classic dishes usually include dishes such as steak, foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and grill for simple fine-dining.

// Daily 11:30am -2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays 11am-

4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29 Zizhuyuan

Road, Beijing 紫竹院路29号北京香格里拉饭店

(6841 2211, Ext. 6727)

Stuff’d (Western)

The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff one kind of food in another. From sausage calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus.

// Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang

Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同9号

(6407 6308)

Sushi Yotsuba (Japanese)

It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu

RMB1,000), but what would you expect from some of the best sushi in town?

Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a cut above.

// Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang,

Dongcheng District 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400

2699)

Susu (SE Asian)

The first step is finding it. Follow that up with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, extensive wine list and a listing of top-notch

Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, stews, soups and la Vong fish.

// Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang,

Dongcheng District 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400

2699)

Taverna ¥ ¥ (Contemporary Western)

Slick service helps this faux-rustic lunchtime favourite into our list, with typical dishes including salmon steak, ribs and salads. Dependable, slightly dull even, but solid fare.

// Daily noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 1949 The Hidden City,

Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu , Chaoyang District 朝阳区工

体北路4号院 (6501 8882)

Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥ ¥

(Contemporary Western)

**

Setting is everything here, especially if it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist temple. The bold contemporary European cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service alone is worthy of worship.

// Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6–10pm. 23 Songzhusi Temple,

Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng District 东城区沙滩北街嵩

祝寺23号 (8400 2232, www.temple-restaurant.com/)

Three Colours Lotus (Indian)

Three Colours Lotus’s team of chefs specialize in a northern Indian school of cooking, and their menu is full of creamy curries and succulent cuts of meat grilled in the

Tandoor oven.

// Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10:30pm, Xiu Shui 2, 14 Dong Da

Qiao Road, Chaoyang District

朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水2号 (6586 5096)

Tim’s Texas BBQ (American)

Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas

BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing all ya’ll homesick ‘Murricans with the best damn home-style briskets, ribs and steaks – slow-cooked over a mesquite wood BBQ

– this side of the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and

Margherita’s recommended, partner.

// Daily 9am-midnight, Silk#2 building, 14 Dongdaqiao

Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水2号

院 (6591 9161)

Tori Tei (Japanese)

Japanese izakaya-style pub and eatery stocked with Japanese beers and sake. Its specialty lies in grilled yakitori – chicken skewers and other meat and veggie sticks.

Lively atmosphere and best in large groups.

//Daily 5:30pm-1am, 8 Xinyuanli Zhongjie, Chaoyang

District, 朝阳区新源里中街8号 (64614513)

Traktirr Pushkin (Russian)

By no means high-end, you visit Traktirr (or its dearer cousin round the corner) for the boisterous nighttime atmosphere and array of Russian peasant fare: anything crockbaked is usually good, as is sharing a range of starters. Plus: copious cheap vodka (and suspicious homebrew).

// 10am-midnight. 1A Xiyangguan Hutong, Beizhongjie,

Dongzhimennei Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区东直

门内大街北中街西羊管胡同甲1号 (6403 1690)

Transit ¥¥ (Chinese Sichuan)

*

Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and its equally hot girls. While the latter are up to you, the creative minds at Transit have made some fiery additions to the classical, chili-thumping canon, and they will charge you for that knowledge. But unlike many equally expensive joints, this is high-end

Chinese dining at its best.

// Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm. N4-36, Sanlintun Village

North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯

路11号三里屯Village北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)

The Rug (Café)

*

With ingredients supplied by local organic farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an emphasis on sustainability, this Chaoyang

Park café’s menu of locally milled bagels is a hit with green types, bored foreign moms and freelance Macbook types.

// 7.30pm - 11pm Daily. Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang

Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South Gate),

Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4号

楼(朝阳公园南门对面)(8550 2722)

Tube Station

Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

73

listings quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to be the biggest in town.

// Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun

10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, Fri-

Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 Sanlitun

Road, Chaoyang District 三里屯北街33号3.3服装大厦

3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 177) Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, Yayancun, Solana and

Weigongcun, see www.tubestationpizza.com.cn for details)

Union Bar and Grill (American)

The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, Union’s extensive menu – from eggs Benedict to baby back ribs – covers all bases and hours, served by friendly staff. The warm atmosphere tempts many to stay all day.

// Mon-Fri 11am-11pm,Sat-Sun 11am-midnight. S6-31,

3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Village South, 19 Sanlitun Lu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯

Village南区6号楼3层S6-31(6415 9117)

Veggie Table (Vegetarian)

*

Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine is by no means the exclusive preserve of

Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson fans, this superbly honed eatery offers some of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or otherwise – found anywhere in the city.

// Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order 10.30pm) 19

Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道营

胡同19号. (6446 2073)

Vineyard Cafe on the River (British)

New Vineyard offshoot opposite of the

Liangma River. Menu features British classics like Fish & Chips and Bangers & Mash. The breezy terrace is primed for a pint of the handcraft beer or a carafe of Pimms.

//Daily Tu-Fr 1130am-3pm 6pm-12am kitchen closes at 10pm, Sa-Su 1130am-3ppm 6pm-12am, Liangmahe

Nanlu, west side of Xindong Lu, across the street from

Yuyang Hotel, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区亮马河南路

新东路西侧渔阳饭店对面(8532 5335)

Wagas (Contemporary Western)

Quality eats with minimal pretension. This stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element

Fresh offers some of the best and most affordable Western lunch options in town. The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a crowd pleaser.

// Daily 8am-10pmS8-33, 3/F, 8 building, 19 South

Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯

Village南区三层 (6416-5829)

White Nights (Russian)

You certainly don’t go to White Nights for the service. Or for the food. Or the tiny helpings. But people do go. Oh yes – it’s for the cheap booze.

// Daily 11am-midnight. 13A Beizhong Jie (off

Dongzhimennei Dajie), Dongcheng District 东城区东直

门内大街北中街甲13号 (8402 9595)

The Woods (American)

*

New York native-owned, Manhattan-style restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrapers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple than that.

// Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101,

No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, 朝外大街6号新城国际1号搂

101 (6533 6380)

Wang Jia Sha (Shanghainese)

Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with

Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crabmeat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs

(RMB62) for a bit of Adam action.

Reservation (86 10) 6416 3469

S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun(on the third floor of i.t shop)

朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层S1-30a

号商铺

Wu Li Xiang (Chinese regional)

*

Impressive views don’t detract from the exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, especially the famous dim sum. Swanky classics from all the main culinary regions of

China, like Sichuan and Hong Kong, including “Monk Jump Over the Wall,” braised pork in oyster sauce.

// Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm. 2-3/F, Traders Upper East

Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三

层 (5907 8406)

Xiangmanlou (Chinese regional)

Xiangmanlou is little-known among the expat community, but many Beijingers say it has the best duck in town. The restaurant looks like a New York diner from the outside, and the booth seating by the window adds to that. However, Xiang serves traditional duck, with all the fixings, like pancakes (thin but with the chewy resistance that is key) and deliciously fresh accoutrements. At RMB118 for a whole bird

(with condiments), it’s also a steal. Large portions of genuine, Shandong-style food are also available.

// Daily 11am-4.20pm,4.50pm-10pm. Xinyuan Xili

Zhongjie (opposite Yuyang Hotel), Chaoyang District 朝

阳区新源西里中街(渔阳饭店斜对面) (6460 6711)

Daily 10am-10pm Chaoyang Park West Gate, near No.8

Hot Spring 朝阳区农展南路1号朝阳公园西门(近八

号公馆) (65950969)

Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang)

*

Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers around, matched by enormous servings of dishes like dapan ji (a chicken, potato and pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy tomato sauce) and baked flatbread (nang).

Nightly performances (starting at 7.40pm) feature live music and belly dancers with snakes – you might find yourself dragged on-stage to join in.

// Daily 10.30am-11pm. Inside 7 Xingfu Yicun alley, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷

内 (6415 5741)

Yi House (Contemporary Western)

Nestled in the confines of the 798 Art

District, Yi’s great tasting brunch is bettered only by their wide range of cocktail concoctions. Sundays offer jazz brunches with lobster and champagne. Our 2013 readers’ choice for Restaurant of the Year.

// Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am. 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798

Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒

仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818)

Yu Xin (Chinese Sichuan)

Open since 1993, Yu Xin has a loyal fanbase through consistently offers authentic

Sichuan dishes. Their liangfen – a jelly-like substance cut into chunky strips and dressed in an addictive spicy sauce – hits the spot.

Also not to be missed are koushui ji, mouthwatering cold chicken, and shuizhu niurou, fiery boiled beef slices. Enjoy its rustic, intimate setting of bamboo cubicles and swift, friendly service.

// Daily 11am-10pm. 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 (6415 8168 for other locations, visit www.yuxin1997.com)

Yue Lu Mountain House (Chinese)

Another brainchild of the artist Fang Lijun, the mastermind behind South Silk Road,

Hunan-style cuisine (e.g. duojiao yutao, fish head with pickled chili; hongshao rou, braised fatty pork; lei qiezi, a cold, stone bowl of refreshing mashed eggplant) in a classical Chinese room with a nice view of

Lotus Lane and Qianhai.

// Daily 11am-11pm. 51-10 Di’anmen Xidajie, in Lotus

Lane, Xicheng District 西城区地安门西大街51-10号

天荷坊内 (6617 2696). Also, Sat-Wed 11am-2.30pm,

5-10.30pm; Thu-Fri 11am-3pm, 5-10.30pm Opposite

Gongti 100, Bldg 1, Jiqingli, Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区工体西路吉庆里1号楼(工体100对

面) (6551 0806)

Yun’er Small Town (Yunnanese)

Folksy Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang.

Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp, and banana leaf wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us crawling back.

// Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng

District, 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407)

Yuxiang Renjia (Chinese Sichuan)

Most branches maintain simple decorations, with black-and-white photos of traditional houses, river towns in the south, and strings of dried red chilis and garlic hanging on the wall. So, too, is their menu: old-fashion and reliably good. The lazi ji is crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce noodle, with spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted confections are guaranteed to offer comfort to numbed-and-burned tongues, too.

// Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union

Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝

阳区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841 for other locations visit www.yuxiangrenjia.com

TOP 50 BARS AND CLUBS

About This guide represents our editors’ top

50 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to pours, experience and affordability.

8-Bit

Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gaming – why didn’t anyone do this sooner?

Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some real gems make up an ever-growing collection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable

RMB25 a glass .

// Daily, 1pm-2am, 49 Jiaodaokou Nandajie, Dongcheng

District 东城区交道口南大街49号 (159 1025 6538))

Apothecary ¥ *

Golf ball-sized ice cubes, infusions, fussy bar-tending and (allegedly) snooty staff have made the Japanese-style Apothecary bar a divisive choice to visit. See for yourself: they also serve quality Cajun food.

// Tue-Sun 6pm-late (kitchen closes 1am). 3/F, Nali Patio,

81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6040)

Atmosphere ¥¥

Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-degree views of the 700AQI PM2.5.

// Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F,

China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国

贸大酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433)

The Bar *

This relative newcomer (sometimes known as Third Floor) has years of savvy behind it, meaning you can absolutely trust the cocktail menu. Manager Jack Zhou and his brother offer sterling service, while the décor is handsome and low-key.

// Daily 4pm-late. 3/F Friendship Youth Hostel, (100m west of Sanlitun Houjie), Chaoyang District 朝阳区北三

里屯友谊青年酒店三层(3.3大厦西侧) (6415 9954)

The Bar at Migas ¥

A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get the party started. Good-enough cocktails range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about the music, man.

// Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Friday

6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区三里屯路81号

Black Sun

There’s not a lot of choice for locals around the Chaoyang Park area. With darts, pool, food and pub quiz, Black Sun is probably the best, though a depressing air does occasionally pervade. A recent change of management has helped this.

// Daily 5.30pm-3am. Chaoyang Park West Gate,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6593 6909)

The Brick

A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll find this neighbourhood drinking hole-in-the brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 Terminator) are probably needed for the bizarre

Wednesday pub quiz.

// Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31

Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao),

Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号

院天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677)

Centro ¥

Although it’s no longer quite the go-to place for beautiful people it once was, Centro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly jazz performaces, spacious and recently renovated lounge areas and classic drinks like the blue-cheese martini.

// Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭

店1层 (6561 8833)

China Bar ¥¥

Top views from the 65th floor and flash drinks are the attractions on offer at this hip hotel bar.

// Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park Hyatt,

2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国

门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40)

Chocolate ¥

It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women.

Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with bottles of spirits from around RMB200, cocktails under RMB50 (including the absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) and regular floor shows. Best to avoid this cavernous slice of underground kitsch after midnight, though.

// Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝

阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988)

CICADA Ultralounge ¥

The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the cost.

// Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区

N4-33 (6418 9898)

Cuju *

This tiny sports bar is frequently packed with NFL fans but don’t expect rowdy jocks.

Great Moroccan food and a connoisseur’s selection of rums and beers lure a more sophisticated set. It’s popular with the owner’s friends but all are welcome.

// 28 Xiguan Hutong, off Dongsibeidajie

细管胡同28号东四北大街 (6407 9782)

d.Lounge ¥ *

The fancy spelling tells you all you need to know about this chic cocktail lounge in a stunning archway location. Great on school nights, this place can become horribly busy at weekend.

// Daily 8pm-late. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (opposite the Rock and Roll Club), Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体

北路4号 (6593 7710)

Dada *

It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for too long, but already Dada is the hippest hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines under rock house Temple offer an intimate place to nod along to an eclectic range of all things electro from the best names on the underground scene.

// Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong

Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B

栋101室 (1108 0818)

The Den 敦煌

At the opposite end of the 24-hour drinking spectrum from Centro, The Den is a seedy sports joint that starts off sedate and grows steadily sadder as night turns to day.

It can get rough and ready come dawn.

Solid (cheap) menu, good location and those opening times earn it a place.

// Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝

阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边

Drum and Bell 鼓钟咖啡馆

The location of this rooftop hutong bar, in the historic (and threatened) Gulou neighbourhood, makes it a great place to hang out with a cool one and watch the day go by.

// Daily 1pm-2am. 41 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng

District 东城区钟楼湾胡同41号 (8403 3600)

El Nido *

The first hutong hang-out to patent the fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El

Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly in summer. The roast leg of mutton place next door is one of the best locally.

// Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng District

东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089)

Enoterra

Looking for an affordable glass of wine with that date? Look no further than Nali Patio’s wine center. Although the food leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice cheese plate with that tart glass of vino.

// Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun

Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园

D405室 (5208 6076)

Address: Gongti Dongmen 10-11, behind the secret door inside Stadium Dog (6593 8227)

Fubar

Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence that made the place its name.

Live lounge music and a vast amount of pours are starting to persuade people it’s succeeding.

// 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District,

Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人

体育场东门内 (6593 8227)

First Floor

First Floor is like that friend who’s too popular to properly enjoy their company.

At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with regulars and the passing tourist trade all baying at the bar. A good place to meet new friends, perhaps.

// Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.

floorbeijing.com)

Glen ¥

Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve endured poor service and drinks that are scandalous at the price), which is located in a decidedly downbeat compound. But whisky lovers have been known to swear

74

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

by its selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. See for yourself.

// 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing, 16

Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯路

16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191)  

Glen Classic ¥

Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel,

Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky bar where discerning drinkers can sink into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while away the hours. Huge range of whiskies and rums are personally selected by expert owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend you something special.

// Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 Dongcaoyuan,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草园26号

(6551 6788)

Great Leap Brewery 大跃啤酒

¥   *

The bar that began the whole Beijing microbrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes in idiosyncratic, local-style brews

(RMB25-40) with intriguing flavors – their

Sichuan peppercorn ale was memorably good. Reservations used to be recommended for their original hutong brewhouse, but the opening of a wildly popular new pub on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers there instead.

// Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, 6

DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角胡同

6号 (5717 1399)

//Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight,

Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 (

6416-6887, www.greatleapbrewing.com)

Heaven Supermarket

A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedraggled English teachers, Heaven sells the cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You can also hang around and appreciate the afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen.

// Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The James

Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号 (6415

6513)

Hidden Lounge *

Although frustrating to find, Hidden

Lounge rewards the intrepid with good artwork and comfortable seating, suggesting a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have to call them to find it, though.

// Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments,

Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区双

花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613)

Ichikura ¥

One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town, this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind a theater also offers terrific cocktails.

Although less expensive than several rivals, you’ll want to indulge.

// Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36

Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北

路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107)

The Irish Volunteer

Everything – from the red-faced owner to the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken regret. A good place to down a pint and a pizza before heading into town, then.

// Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido Hotel

East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路311

号 (6438 5581)

The James Joyce *

With its roaring fire and portraits of Joyce, the ‘JJ’ is a homing beacon to anyone craving an authentic Irish pub atmosphere (i.e. without tacky Guinness-related gimmicks).

// Daily 11am-2am14 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳

区新东路14号 (6415 9125)

Jane’s & Hooch ¥ *

Acclaimed by some foreign press as one of the best bars in the world (cough), this not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard of the South Sanlitun gentrification.

It serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff and unimpeachable cocktails.

The drawbacks? Weekends can be horriblky busy – and there is a frankly absurd list of house rules marring the menu.

// Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 工体北路4

号院 ( 6503 2757)

Lantern *

Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture

Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, it also makes good drinks and attracts international electronica DJs.

// Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s

Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育

场西门向北100米(139 119 77989)

The Local *

Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come into its own, with large (yet strangely unobtrusive) screenings of sports and political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and a nice selection of draughts and cocktails.

Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t need another.

// See Hot 100 Restaurants for details.

Lucky Man ¥ *

The cognoscenti rate this quiet Gulou whisky bar as one of the smartest to satisfy your lust for the other ‘amber nectar.’

// Daily 7pm-1.30am. 157 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng

District 东城区鼓楼东大街157 (6405 4167)

Luga’s

The closest Beijing has to a municipal drinking hall, the four-storey Luga’s has it all: terrible Tex-Mex, decent Italian, a busy pool table, loud music, smoke,

400 flatscreen TVs all showing different sports… yet still we like it (sort of). Basement bar Taps provides a German-themed refuge, with serve-your-own draught

Paulaner and quality food.

// Daily 11am-2am. 2/F, 7 Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区三里屯后街7号2层 (6416 2575)

Maggie’s ¥

A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of course, to the hot-dog stand outside),

Maggie’s has been providing its special comforts for so long, it’s practically a timehonored Beijing brand – although it’s also a bastion of Mongolian culture.

// Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park

South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南

门 (8562 8142)

Mao Mao Chong **

The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorninfused vodka drink that’s a long way from

Moscow – are unique infusions using local ingredients and know-how. Grungey without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash while still keeping it real. And those pizzas.

// 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District

东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, www.maomaochongbeijing.com)

Mesh ¥

Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior and underground soundtrack draws the bright young things (and on LGBT Thursdays, quite a few old things, too).

// Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 6688)

Modernista Old Cafe and Tapas Bar ¥ *

The hipsters love this little brasseriethemed absinthe bar. Regular live shows mean it can often get pretty crowded. That should piss off the hipsters, yet still they keep coming.

// Tuesday to Sunday 12pm-2am. 44 Baochao Hutong,

Dong Cheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同44

号(136 9142 5744)

Paddy O’Shea’s

Owner Karl Long has airlifted an entire

Irish theme pub, including residents, from a council estate in Limerick and gently deposited it in central Beijing. With plenty going on, including pub quiz and sports, no one seems to have noticed.

// Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai

Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号

(6415 6389)

// Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back Street 三里

屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299)

Propaganda

This sweaty student sauna is either the best place in Wudaokou (if you’re a Korean student, or like to pick up said students) or some kind of fresh Circle of Hell (if you’re anyone else). Fake booze (and fake orgasms) abound.

// Mon-Fri 8pm-4.30am, Sat-Sun 8pm-5am. 100m north of the east gate of Huaqing Jiayuan, Wudaokou, Haidian

District 海淀区五道口华清嘉园东门往北100米

(8286 3991)

Q Bar ¥

Atop one of the city’s most average-looking hotels is one of its classiest (and certainly oldest) institutions. Be prepared to wait for your drinks, though. The rooftop terrace is one of the main lures, so in winter, you may want to look elsewhere.

// Daily 5pm-2am. Top floor of Eastern Inn Hotel, 6

Baijiazhuang Lu (on the corner of Sanlitun Nanlu),

Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家庄6号朝阳门医院北门

东100米三里屯南路逸羽连锁酒店顶楼 (6595 9239, www.qbarbeijing.com)

Revolution *

Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia would be it. The East may be red but their cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman.

// Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝阳

区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776)

Salud 老伍

*

A Nanluoguxiang institution, with everything from cheap beer to (loud) live music and low beams. The rum infusions are a particular favorite on cold nights. Latest branch in WDK a welcome addition to surrouding student dives.

// NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66

Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷

66号 (6402 5086)

// Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan Xilu 展

春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层

School Bar

Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by

Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers.

// Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881)

Slow Boat Brewery Taproom *

This popular microbrewery finally got its own comfortable location in Dongcheng’s hutong district. Quality ales (such as the vanilla stout (RMB55) or crisp Dragon Boat

Ale (RMB25), heated floors and a kitchen round out the deal.The burger-and-sua

// Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 4pm-12am, Thur-Fri: 5pm-1am,

Sat: 2pm-late, Sun: 2-10pm. 56 Dongsi Batiao,Dongcheng

District 东城区东四八条56号 (6538 5537)

Smuggler’s

The high (or make that low) watermark among the ailing dive-bar scene of Sanlitun, Smuggler’s caters to a rambunctious, friendly crowd of scallywags, rapscallions and ragamuffins. Don’t drink too many of their spirits; do ask why the men’s bathroom hasn’t been fixed in three f*cking years.

// 8pm-late. 43 Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区

三里屯后街43号 (138 0107 1230)

The Tree 隐蔽的树

A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere.

Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the

Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and

Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors).

// Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street,

Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯

酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东

面 (6415 1954)

Twilight ¥ *

A downtown version of Sanlitun mainstay

Apothecary, complete with mood jazz and those premium cocktails, this Japanese whisky bar makes you feel as far away from the busy boulevards whizzing below as you’d want.

// Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai SOHO,

Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三

环中路39号建外SOHO东区5号别墅3层 (5900 5376)

XIU ¥¥

While Thursday’s Ladies Nights attracts the sort we’d sooner avoid, XIU is beloved among aspirational white-collar Chinese, wooed by its sprawling chic-ness and playboy clientele. A lively house band keeps you indoors, but a superb terrace backons you otherwise: a fantastic midweek drinking venue in the summer.

// Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai SOHO,

Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三

环中路39号建外SOHO东区5号别墅3层 (5900 5376)

10 Best Livehouses

2 Kolegas 两个好朋友酒吧 *

Call it what you will: Dos Kolegas. Fire trap. That place by the drive-through. But there’s no denying that this artsy alternative venue has its fingers on an eclectic musical pulse. In summer, it really comes alive with barbecue pits, all-day parties and a whole lotta love.

// Daily 8pm-2am. 21 Liangmaqiao Lu (inside the drive-in movie theater park), Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路

21号 (6436 8998,www.2kolegas.com)

Hot Cat Club 热力猫

A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot

Cat is the type of hard-working venue that helps cement a city’s music scene. From

Afro Funk to Math Rock to painful openmic nights, this everyman’s club breeds good vibes. Decent drinks, lots of loungy seats and plenty of space.

// Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south of

Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同46

号(6400 7868).

Jianghu 江湖酒吧

This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home is exactly where you’d take that friend from out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy atmosphere is also its downfall – any show with under 40 people and you’re stuck looking through the windows. Hip and casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings keep things low-key enough for the get-home-for-the-babysitter crowd.

// 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie,

Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街东棉花

胡同7号 (6401 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar, [email protected])

Mako Live 麻雀瓦舍

Nestled in the old Beijing Jeep plant, this former warehouse plays host to a Silk

Road smorgasbord of musical encounters from western China and the ‘Stans. Forget the overpriced bar and come for the killer sound, comfortable wraparound balcony and five-meter replica of Optimus Prime, followed by a hearty meal at the Xinjiang restaurant upstairs.

// Hongdian Art Factory, 36 Guangqu Lu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区广渠路36号红点艺术工厂院内(5205 1113, www.mako001.com)

Mao Livehouse

From the denim-jacketed doorman to the well-grafittied walls, Mao leans on every

Hollywood rock club cliché without feeling scripted. Besides boasting the worst bar in town, Mao delivers with great sound and the best billings of heavy metal, punk hitting this side of the Drum Tower.

// 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓

楼东大街111号(6402 5080, www.maolive.com)

The Post Mountain 后山

Built into a man-made hill in the center of the MOMA Complex, this new addition to

Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The

Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its imported sound system and ramped floor makes for decent sound and sightlines.

Almost exclusively featuring Chinese rock, folk and electronic artists you’ve never heard of (but should).

// Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongzhimenwai,

Dongcheng District (next to MOMA Cinemateque) 东城

区东直门外香河园路1号当代MOMA园区T8楼北百

老汇电影中心北侧 (8400 4774)

Temple

*

Probably the manliest venue in town, this dimly lit and unventilated space is owned by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement

Burger) and known for late sets of hard rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to the RMB15 draught. When the smoking gets fierce, head to the spacious terrace for a big drag of bad air.

// Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie,

Dongcheng District 坛东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼

202 (131 6107 0713)

XP 小萍

From the ashes of Beijing’s now-legendary

D-22, rises the brave new experimental club XP. Operated and owned by former

D-22 main man (and noted economist)

Michael Pettis, XP is more avant-garde than its previous incarnation. Expect sonic projections, drone-core jazz and the latest in cutting-edge Beijing sound.

// 1pm-late, closed Monday, 2 Silouxiang (just south of

Gulou Xidajie, Xicheng District. 西城区地安门内大街

四楼巷 (6406 9947)

Yugong Yishan 愚公移山

We’ve lost more body weight than we’d care to remember in YY’s mosh pit.

Fortunately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits from across the globe – were worth it. The upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat glands below.

// Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west of

Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng District 东

城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711)

Zajia Lab 杂家

A Daoist Temple is exactly where you’d expect an Italian Sinologist to open a venue – big on film screenings, A/V projects, avant-garde puppetry and choice but obscure live music for the adventurous.

// Hong En Daoist Temple, Doufuchi Hutong, Dongcheng

District 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同宏恩观前殿

(156 0112 2252, 8404 9141, www.zajia.cc)

GALLERIES

798 Art District Picks

Galleria Continua *

In the often-insular 798, Galleria Continua is the international gallery. Their warehouse space is a forum for high-caliber artists from nearly every continent, including several of China’s artistic nobility.

// Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. 798 Art District, 2

Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号

798大山子艺术区 (5978 9505, www.galleriacontinua.

com)

Pace Beijing

With locations in New York, London and

Beijing hosting the likes of Zhang Xiaogang, Yue Minjun, Robert Rauschenberg,

Mark Rothko, Kiki Smith and Sol LeWitt,

Pace inhabits Bauhaus-style buildings 798 is idealized for. Go there!

// Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

75

listings

Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号大山子艺

术区 (5978 9781, www.pacegallery.com)

Space Station

Not often shown in 789’s sea of elites,

Space Station presents a younger generation of domestic artists. Exhibitions tend to have a good curatorial understanding of space and high-quality 2D work.

// Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Rd798 Art

District, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺

术区中一街 (5978 9671)

Tang Contemporary Art

Stressing cutting-edge exhibition installation and curatorial theory. With locations in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Beijing, Tang focuses on promoting artistic exchange throughout East Asia.

// Free. Tues-Sun 10.30am-6pm. 798 Factory, 2 Jiuxianqiao

Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区大山子酒仙桥路798

工厂2号入口前行300米 (5978 9610, www.atngcontemporary.com)

Ullens Center for Contemporary Art

Filling the largest factory space in 798 with

Chinese and international art, the UCCA has the curatorial power and financial backing to put together some of Beijing’s most impressive exhibitions.

// RMB10, free Thursdays. Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. 798 Art

District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙

桥路4号798艺术区 (5780 0200, www.ucca.org.cn)

Caochangdi Art Village

Chambers Fine Art Beijing

With its compeer gallery in New York,

Chambers is a matriarch with extensive roots in the local-studio scene that allows

Big Apple headhunters to cull next generation avant-garde and provide a stepping stone to international recognition.

// Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Red No.1-D, Caochangdi,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地红一号D座 (5127

3298, www.chambersfineart.com)

Galerie Urs Meile

Recently upgrading to one of the courtyards designed by artist-architect Ai

Weiwei, this Swiss-owned gallery has two intimate spaces, allowing pairs of solo exhibitions from leading contemporary

Chinese artists.

// Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6.30pm. 104 Caochangdi, Cui

Gezhuang Xiang, Chaoyang District 朝阳区崔各庄草

场地村104号(近电影博物馆路)(6433 3393, www.

galerieursmeile.com)

White Space Beijing

There are no restricting on the art this gallery supports, leading to some of the area’s more perplexing exhibitions. Always fun and on the pulse of vitality, though empirical value is pushed to an extreme.

// Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 255 Caochangdi, Airport

Service Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区机场辅路草场

地255号(8456 2054, www.whitespace-beijing.com)

Citywide Picks

Arrow Factory

This space is one of a kind in Beijing, an independently run alternative space in the hutong of Beijing’s center. Showing young, experimental artists, Arrow only takes up about 15sqm and is viewable 24/7. As a backlash against artists being pushed outside the city limits, this space tries to reinstall art inside an urban setting so everyday experience and creativity remain intertwined.

// Free. Everyday 24hours. 38 Jianchang Hutong,

Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同38号 (www.arrowfactory.org.cn)

CAFA Museum

Attached to the northeast corner of the

Central Academy of Fine Art, architect

Arata Isozaki built a slate-rock shell to house the museum’s 13,000+ collection of modern to contemporary art. Opened in

2008, exhibitions range from Chinese Modern masterworks to current avant-garde experimental.

// RMB10. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. No. 8 Huajiadi Nan Lu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区花家地南街8号中央美术学

院美术馆 (6528 2022, www.cafamuseum.org)

Today Art Museum *

As China’s first non-profit, non-governmental art museum, this institution embodies the country’s 20th-century leap to develop academic and progressive exhibitions.

Opened in 2002, Chinese superstars and university prospects all get wall space here.

// RMB10. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Building 4, Pingod

Community, No.32 Baiziwan Road, Chaoyang District 朝

阳区百子湾路32号苹果社区4号楼今日美术馆

(5876 0600, www.todayartmuseum.com)

Independent cinemas

Broadway Cinematheque MOMA *

Opened in 2009, this arthouse film venue boasts the largest screens for independent cinema in Beijing. It has three theaters with a total of 400 seats and a 300-sqm cafe-bookstore, aptly named Kubrick.

// RMB30-120. Mon-Sun 11am-10pm. F3, Building T4,

The North Area, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongcheng

District 东城区东直门香河园路1号当代Moma北区

T4座 (8438 8258 ext. 8008, www.bc-cinema.cn)

Instituto Cervantes

Showing popular independent films from

Latin American Directors monthly, the

Instituto Cervantes is a forum of Spanishspeaking culture that also hosts public art exhibitions and lectures. They even have a video library!

// Prices vary. Daily 7am-10pm.1A Gongti Nanlu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路甲1号 (5879 9666, www.pekin.cervantes.es)

Bookstores

The Bookworm *

This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village, providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing bibliophiles. The Western bookstore, library, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and event space always has a cultured evening on its shelves for both adults and kids.

// Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road,

Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号楼 (6586

9507, www.beijingbookworm.com)

Page One

The go-to shop for new releases and special requests. With sister venues in Hong

Kong, Taiwan and Singapore, and two locations in Beijing, its network allows for fresh authors whilst upholding an extensive collection of titles.

// Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China World

Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Chaoyang District

朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层3B201 (8535 1055, www.pageonegroup.com)

Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商业

中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, www.pageonegroup.com)

BEAUTY & FITNESS

Alona Pilates Studio

Pairing up traditional Pilates with an innovative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates offers classes designed to tone and whip you into shape fast. It also provides a personalized experience for all its students, regardless of fitness, strength and flexibility levels.

// Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1

Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店五层 ( 139 1029

0260, www.alonapilates.com)

Broadwell International Tennis Academy

Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis

Center, this indoor club boasts a complete state-of-the-art air-supported structure for all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with an advanced lighting system and controlled climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect their service and batting a few balls.

// Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路1

号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www.

broadwell.cn1)

DNA Fitness Studio

Catering for both athletes and normal folks, DNA Fitness Studio specializes in one-on-one personal training, weight loss, spine care, body building and more, with personalized classes and training systems.

// Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm.Unit 1135, 3F, Bldg 11, Jianwai

SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳

区东三环中路建外SOHO西区11楼3层 (5869 1607)

Fine Yoga

This airy studio offers a diverse range of style and classes, including Ashtanga,

Hatha, Anusara, soft Yin and Hot yoga.

Teachers are top notch and international, and classrooms spacious and bright, with stylish, clean changing-rooms. Classes taught in both Chinese and English.

// Mon-Fri 7am-9:30pm, Sat- Sun. 10am-6pm.

16/F, Tower 2, Blue Castle International Centre, 3 Xi

Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路3号蓝

堡国际中心2号楼16层 (85999566/ 85997702)

Heyrobics

“Sweat like a Swede!” they say with annoyingly smug grin and toned abs. The only fitness craze worth following in Beijing,

Heyrobics is all about a punishing full-body workout set to pumping beats – not forgetting the fluorescent spandex. Differing classes for all abilities, check online for the full schedule.

// www.heyrobics.com, [email protected]

Luxura Tanning Center

This tanning salon has some of the city’s best state-of-the-art tanning beds, all imported from Europe. For the sexiest tan possible, get custom-made tanning tips from the well-trained staff.

// Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) Rm 307, Bldg 4, Jianwai Soho 39

Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳区东三环

中路建外SOHO西区4楼307室(5900 0427, www.luxura.

net) 2) 5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang District朝阳区

三里屯3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186, www.luxura.net)

Lily Nails

A long-time favorite among locals and expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a nail spa; they have a variety of pampering treatments and waxing services too.

// Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) 2 Ginza Mall, 48 Dongzhimenwai

Dajie (southeast of Dongzhimen Bridge), Dongcheng

District东城区东直门外大街48号东方银座2楼(东

直门桥东南侧) (8447 7178); 2) Shop 2049, 2/F, 3.3

Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District朝

阳区三里屯北街33号3.3大厦2层2049号 ( 5136 5829,

136 8148 3308)

Yoga Yard

Whether you’re looking to develop your spiritual wellbeing, body toning or just socialize with the hip young crowd, Yoga

Yard will have the right class for you.

// Daily, 7am-9.30pm. Yoga Yard, 6/F , 17 Gongti Bei Lu,

Chaoyang District朝阳区工体北路17号6层 (6413 0774, www.yogayard.com)

Yihe 42° Hot Yoga

Counting on certified Bikram yoga teachers, Yihe 42° Hot Yoga provides three locations with a calm, relaxing and clean environment for people from all walks of lives to learn and grow through the regular practice of Hot Yoga. This is a place where you can dedicate time for yourself, relax your mind and restore your strength.

// Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Blue

Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区大望路蓝

堡国际中心南写2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www.yh42.

com); 2) 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan

Xilu Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色

港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www.yh42.com) ; 3) 3/FA

Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳工

体北路新中西里13号巨石大厦3FA

YogiYoga

True boutique-style yoga, YogiYoga has a mostly Chinese clientele and classes average about eight people. Their instructors come from all over the world, and teach a wide range of classes.

// Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) Chaoyang Park Tennis Center,

Chaoyang Park, 1 Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路1号朝阳公园网球中

心 6592 2791/92 ; 2) North Gate, Ritan Park Chaoyang

District 朝阳区日坛公园北门 (8561 5506/5507); 3)

5/F, Oriental Plaza, 218-2 Wangfujing Dajie Dongcheng

District东城区 王府井大街218-2东方广场西配楼五

层 (6513-2188, 6522-7168); 4) 8/F, Zhongxin Shuma Plaza,

52 Beisihuan Xilu Haidian District海淀区北四环西路52

号中芯数码大厦8层 6269-2352

DENTAL

Arrail Dental

Affiliated with the University of Pennsylvania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple locations across town and excellent facilities make it one of the best dental providers in Beijing. English-speaking staff.

Dental services including examinations, whitening, root-canal treatment, orthodontics and implants.

// 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu,

Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东

南角京汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower

A, CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang

District朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208

室 (6500 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech

Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀区中关村

科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956);

4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu,

Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公寓16

号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset Fortune

Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮

马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层 (8440 1926)

SDM Dental固瑞齿科

The full spectrum of dentistry.

Services include teeth cleaning, rootcanal treatment, porcelain crowns, dental implants, orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings, pediatric dentistry, extraction, teeth-whitening and veneers. Credit cards accepted. www.sdmdental.com**Mon-Fri

9am-8pm. CBD/Guomao>2/F,NB210, China

World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomenwai

Dajie 建外大街 1 号国贸商城地下 2 层

Tel:6505-9439/31/93**Mon-Fri 9am-

8pm.Olympic Area>F-0186B Sunshine

Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of Sunshine Plaza)

亚运村安立路 68 号(阳光广场东侧).

Tel: 6497-2173,6498-2173**Mon-Sun

10am-19pm.Shunyi>LB07-08, No.99

Euro Plaza, YuXiang Road. 北京顺义区

天竺镇裕翔路 99 号欧陆广场 LB07-08

号 .Tel: 8046-6084**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.

Sanyuanqiao>FC222, 21st Century Hotel,

40 Liang Maqiao Lu 亮马桥 40 号 21 世纪饭

店 2 层 Tel: 6466-4814, 6461-2745**Mon-Fri

9am-8pm.Haidian>4076B, 4/F, New Yansha

Mall, Yuanda Lu 远大路金源燕莎购物中心

Mall4 层 4076B Tel:8859-6912/13**Mon-

Sun, 10am-7pm Guomao>Rm 5, 3/F, North

Tower, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua

Dongli. 北京朝阳区光华东里 8 号中海广场北

楼 3 层 05 号 .Tel: 5977-2488

United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic

The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in

Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital in Lido (which has its own dental clinic onsite). A comprehensive range of services are at hand, including restorative dentistry and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all appointments.

// 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate Development

Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家医院牙科诊所, 顺义区

天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102)

HAIR SALONS

Eric Paris Hair Salon

With several well-located Beijing branches, this salon is still most expats’ default hairdresser. It targets high-end consumers seeking luxury and beauty services, including tanning, waxing and manicures.

// Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 43 South Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang

District朝阳区三里屯北街南43号 (135 0137 2971; www.ericparis.com ); 2) 1/F, Jiali Center, 1 Guanghua Lu朝

阳区光华路1号嘉里中心1楼 (139 1179 8376;)

Franck Provost Paris

A chic and stylish import from France,

Frank Provost is one of Beijing’s most high-profile and hip salons, offering cutting-edge cuts for the city’s elite. The staff consists of international and internationally trained stylists and technicians, and stocks an imported range of products and accessories.

// Daily, 10am-8pm.1) Shop D2001-1, 2/F, Shin Kong Place

87 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路87号

新光天地二层D2001-1店铺 (6530 7669); 2) Parkson

Shopping Center Fuxingmen 37 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng

District西城区金融大街37号百盛购物中心二期夹

层 (6653 5248)

Tony & Guy

A favorite of many Beijing expats, the trendy British chain features international products, knowledgeable (generally somewhat English-speaking) staff, and a never-ending stream of well-heeled hip clientele. Cuts run the gamut from basic to haute coiffure, depending on which grade of stylish you select.

// Daily, 10am-9pm. LG 41, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu,

Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港地铁

层41号 (8426 0688, for other branches see)

Tic Tac Hair Salon

Trendy, artsy and welcoming, Tic Tac is one of Beijing’s best-kept secrets and a real beauty gem. Staff are friendly and

76

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

multilingual (we counted five last time).

A shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at

RMB200 and goes to RMB780.

// Daily, 10am-9pm. Suite 2-06, Tower AB, The Office Park,

10 Jintong Xilu, Chaoyang district朝阳区金桐西路10

号远洋光华国际AB座2层06单元 (8590 6899, www.

tictac-hair.com)

HEALTH SERVICES

Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital

With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality inpatient facilities, home visits, night services and transportation assistance,

Amcare provides a trustworthy experience.

English-speaking services include pediatrics, gynecology and obstetrics.

// 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西

路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www.

amcare.com.cn)

Beijing International Medical Center (IMC)

Established in 1993, the International

Medical Center-Beijing counts on an expert team of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of medical services, including family medicine, psychological services, dental, ob/gyn, pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also available. English, Farsi, Japanese,

Chinese, Arabic and Russian spoken.

// 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50

Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路50

号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465

1384/28, www.imclinics.com)

Beijing United Family Hospital and Clinics

北京和睦家医院

Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.>

2 Jiangtai Road, Chaoyang District, 朝

阳区将台路 2 号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7000 /

5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United

Family CBD Clinic 和睦家朝外诊所 , Mon-Sat,

9:30am-6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB,

Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街 6 号万通中

心 AB 座 2 层 3017 室 . Tel: (10) 5907 1266.

Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center 和

睦家建国门保健中心 , Wi-fi internet, Mon-

Sun 8:30am-5pm>21 Jianguomen Dajie, B1,

The St. Regis Residence, St. Regis Hotel 朝阳

区建国门外大街 21 号北京国际俱乐部饭店 .

Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic 和睦家顺义诊所

Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9:30am-4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza,

Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development

Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天竺开发区荣

祥广场 806 号 ,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi

Dental Clinic 顺义牙科诊所 , Wi-fi internet,

Mon-Sat, 9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza,

Unit 818, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development

Zone, Shunyi District 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥

广场 818 号 . Tel: (10) 8046 1102. Liangma

Clinic 亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri,

8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19

Dongfang East Road 朝阳区东方东路 19 号 1

号楼会所 27 号(外交人员公寓 B 区官舍 16

号). Tel: (10) 5927 7005 www.ufh.com.cn, [email protected]

cn

Beijing Vista Clinic

This comprehensive medical and dentistry clinic features traditional medicine, physiotherapy, a pharmacy and lab, ob/gyn, pediatrics, ophthalmology, dermatology,

ENT and psychiatry services among others. Multi-lingual doctors always available on-site.

// Daily 24hours. Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang district朝阳区光华路1号 (8529 6618, www.vistachina.net)

OASIS International Hospital

OASIS International Hospital specializes in serving the expatriate community with the latest world-class technology and a broad range of services, all in a pristine facility designed to provide patients with the utmost comfort, care and privacy.

// Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am-12.30pm; 24

Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Beilu Chaoyang

District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 2747,

5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn)

International SOS

Since 1989, International SOS has been run by globally trained medical professionals and provides medical, security and travel advice, as well as emergency help 24/7. Its alarm centers operate house calls, ambulance and evacuation services, and standard health treatments.

Languages spoken include English,

German, French, Mandarin, Spanish,

Japanese, Italian and Cantonese.

// Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16

Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号琨莎

中心1座105

室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos.com)

SPA&MASSAGE

Aqua Salus

Providing an array of massage, face and body-care treatments, waxing treatments and salon services, Aqua Salus is a onestop solution for almost any beauty needs.

// Daily, 12am-12pm. 1) Taiyue Height 106, 16 Nan

Sanlitun Lu Chaoyang District朝阳区南三里屯路16号

泰悦豪庭底商106 (6501 2881, www.aquasalus.cn); 2)

Lucky Street 1-17, 1 Chaoyang Park Lu Chaoyang District

朝阳区好运街1-17朝阳公园路1号 (6501-6639, www.

aquasalus.cn)

Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat

Created as a contemporary urban retreat,

Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquility in the midst of the hectic city.

// Daily, 10am-late. 1)60 Donghuamen Dajie (near The

Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza) Dongcheng District

东城区东华门大街60号(近王府饭店和东方广场)

(6527 9368, www.dragonfly.net.cn); 2) 1/F Eastern Inn,

Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南三里屯

路逸羽酒店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand Summit Plaza,

19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa Center),

Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎桥东方东路19号外交

会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米) (8532 3122)

Ispa

A comprehensive range of both traditional spa rituals and modern foot reflexology awaits you at Ispa. This ultra-Zen oasis has treatments that beautifully blend Eastern and Western healing ideologies, for an ultrarelaxing experience.

// Daily 10am-10pm. 5/F, Tower 2, Taiyue Suites, 16 Nan

Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南三里屯路16号

泰悦豪庭2座5层 (6507 1517)

Angel Hands

Choose from a variety of treatments by professional masseuses in relaxing, minimalist surroundings.

// Daily, 24 hours. Rm 1801, Bldg 2, Jianwai SOHO, 39

Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳区东三环

中路39号建外SOHO2号楼 (8631 0801)

Herborist

TCM-inspired, Herborist is a Chinese skincare brand that also has a chain of spas offering therapeutic massages with herbs.

The spa observes time-honored Chinese health and beauty practices, with treatments inspired from acupuncture techniques in Traditional Chinese Medicine.

// Daily 10am-10pm. 1) Bldg 9, Sanlitun Village South, 19

Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯路19号三

里屯Village南区8号楼S8-33 (6416 5179); 2) Shop 39,

Subway Level, Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang

District朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商场地铁层店

铺号LG39 (8426 0455)

The Wellness Spa by Hummingbird

A favorite among locals and expats alike for its professional pampering know-how and services, the Wellness Spa by Hummingbird is a slick and serious urban retreat in the heart of Central Park.

// Daily 10am-10pm. Tower 26, Central Park,

Chaoyangmen Wai Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳门外

新城国际26号楼 (6533 6922)

Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa

Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pampering Beijing’s finest in their small chain of contemporary spas. Calming flower aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui fountains create a soothing atmosphere in each of their locations, while a long list of treatments from around the world cater to all pampering needs.

// Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 Ritan Lu,

Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号 (400 001 0202, www.taipan.com.cn)

EDUCATIONS

MBA & EMBA SCHOOLS

BBA at BFSU-SolBridge

北京外国语大学国际商学院

// 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三

环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881

6763/8881 8537)

Cheung Kong Graduate School of Business

// Tower E3, 3/F, Oriental Plaza, 1 Dongchang’an Jie,

Dongcheng District

东城区东长安街号东方广场东3座3层 (8518 1050)

Rutgers International Executive MBA

// 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang

District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦

(5877 1706, www.rutgersinasia.com)

Tsinghua University

// Chengfu Lu, Haidian District 海淀区成府路 (6278

9437/8286 3785)

University of Maryland

//www.umd.edu

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS

Beijing BISS International School

北京BISS国际学校

// Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District 朝阳

区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss.com.cn)

Beijing City International School

北京乐成国际学校

// 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区百子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171 www.bcis.cn)

Beijing Rego British School

北京瑞金英国学校

//15 Liyuan Jie, Tianzhu Town, Shunyi District

顺义区天竺镇丽苑街15号 (8416 7718 www.bjrego.org)

The British School of Beijing

Lower School北京英国学校

// 5 Xiliujie, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区三里屯西六街5号 (8532 3088 www.britishschool.org.cn)

Upper School

// South Side, 9 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District

顺义区安华路9号南院 (8047 3588)

Canadian International School of Beijing

北京加拿大国际学校

// 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区亮马桥路38号 (6465 7788 www.cisb.com.cn)

Dulwich College Beijing

北京德威英国国际学校

1) Legend Garden Campus

// 89 Jichang Lu, Shunyi District

首都机场路89号丽京花园 (6454 9000; www.dulwich-beijing.cn)

2) Beijing Riviera Campus

// 1 Xiangjiang Beilu, Jingshun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳

区京顺路香江北路1号香江花园 (8450 7676)

3) River Garden Campus

// River Garden Villas, Houshayu Baixinzhuang, Shunyi

District 顺义区后沙峪白辛庄裕京花园别墅 8046

5132

Harrow International School Beijing

北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn

Lower School

// Grassetown, Gequ Village, Songzhuang Tongzhou

District 通州区徐新庄镇葛渠村格拉斯小镇 (8951

6680)

Upper School

// 5, 4th Block, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District 朝阳区安

贞西里4区5号 (6444 8900)

International School of Beijing

北京顺义国际学校

// www.isb.bj.edu.cn

10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District

顺义区安华路10号 (8149 2345)

SIBS Springboard International Blingual

School 君城国际双语学院

Springboard International Bilingual

School is a place where children, staff and parents work in partnership to enable all their students to realize their full potential.

They are offering a stimulating and full international curriculum as well as an exciting after school program, which will include Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and football.

// 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi

District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (www.

sibs.com.cn, [email protected]; 8049 2450)

Western Academy of Beijing

京西国际学校

// 10 Laiguangying Donglu

Chaoyang District

朝阳区来广营东路10号 (5986 5588 www.wab.edu)

Yew Chung International School

耀中国际学校

// Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang District

朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731 www.ycis-bj.com)

KINDERGARTENS

Beanstalk International Bilingual School

青苗国际双语学校

Kindergarten

// 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝

阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466 9255)

Primary School

// Block 2, Upper East Side, 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang

District 朝阳区东四环北路6号阳光上东二区 (5130

7951)

Middle & High School

// 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南十里居38

号 (8456 6019)

EtonKids International Kindergarten

伊顿国际幼儿园

1) Lido – 6436 7368 www.etonkids.com

// Room C103 Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu,

Chaoyang District 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场

2) 6506 4805

3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion

Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层

3) 8437 1006

Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui Lu, Chaoyang

District

朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交汇处西南角

4) 8480 5538

Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing

朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区

5) 6533 6995

Bldg 19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District

朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼

6) 6539 8967

Palm Springs International Apartments

8 Chaoyang Park Nanlu

Chaoyang District

朝阳区朝阳公园南路8号棕榈泉国际公寓

7) 6749 5008

Bldg 21, Guangqu Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng

District

东城区广渠门外广渠家园21号楼

8) 8478 0578

Baoxing International Phase 2, Wangjing

Chaoyang District

朝阳区望京宝星园国际社区2期

9) 8047 2983

Block 1, Arcadia Villas, Houshayu

Shunyi District

顺义区后沙峪罗马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚

庄园1座

10) 5870 6779

20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区西大望路甲20号首府社区内

International Montessori School of Beijing

北京蒙台梭利国际学校

6432 8228 www.msb.edu.cn

18 Maquanying, Xiangjiang Beilu

Chaoyang District

朝阳区香江北路马泉营18号

Ivy Schools

艾毅幼儿园 www.ivyschools.com

East Lake Campus

8451 1380/1

C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai Main Street,

Dongcheng District

东城区东直门外大街35号东湖别墅C座101室

Ivy Bilingual School

艾毅双语幼儿园

Ocean Express Campus

8446 7286/7

Building E, Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan Beilu,

Chaoyang District

朝阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座

Orchid Garden Campus

8439 7080

Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu, Cuige Xiang, Chaoyang

District

朝阳区崔各乡新锦路18号卓锦万代

Wangjing Campus

5738 9166/1332 110 6167

Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing, Chaoyang

District

朝阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内

Muffy’s Education

儿童英语之家 www.muffys.cn

1) Shijicheng-

8843 0104/8843 0373

5/F West of Huibo Building, Opposite to The elementary school affliated to Renmin University Landianchang Lu,

Haidian District

海淀区蓝靛厂路人大附小对面汇博大厦西侧5层

2) Wangjing

5734 7085/400 6633 282

Beixiiaohe Park East Gate, Wanjing Xilu, ChaoYang District

朝阳区望京北小河公园东门

3) Wanliu

8257 2550/400 6633 282

Yangchunguanghuafengshuyuan North Club, Haidian

District

海淀区万柳东路阳春光华枫树园北会所

3e International

北京3e国际学校

6437 3344 www.3eik.com

9-1 Jiangtai Xilu

Chaoyang District

朝阳区将台西路9-1号(四德公园旁)

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

77

CLASSIFIEDS

AccommodAtion

Ascott China

Enjoy our hot offer this summer with 20% savings on Best Available Rates in Ascott

Beijing, Ascott Raffles City Beijing, Somerset

ZhongGuanCun Beijing from now to 30

September 2013. Take your pick from these wonderful destinations and let us provide you and your loved ones with a warm welcome in Beijing this summer. Now is the time to choose your favorite service apartments, open your summer tour!

www.ascottchina.com

Ascott Beijing

No.108B Jian Guo Road, Chaoyang District

Tel: 6567 8100

Ascott Raffles City Beijing

Located in Dongzhimen, one of the most vibrant areas, Ascott Raffles City is near the second embassy district, which is rich in cultural heritage and is only a 15 minute drive to The Forbidden City.

Other nearby leisure attractions include

Food Street (Gui Jie) and Sanlitun nightlife district.

No.1-2 Dongzhimen South Street

Dongcheng District

Tel: 8405 3888

Somerset Grand Fortune Garden Beijing

Enjoy gracious living at Somerset Grand

Fortune Garden in the prime Chaoyang

District, where the business district, embassies and international schools are within close proximity.

Unwind with a medley of recreational facilities and the convenience of a retail mall at your doorstep.

No.46 Liangmaqiao Road, Chaoyang District

Tel: 8451 8888

FraserResidence CBD East Beijing

Our location on the Fringe of the CBD with excellent connections to the subway line

1 (Sihui station), BRT Lines (Ciyunsi) and public bus system mean that wherever your intern needs to be in the city, getting there is relatively fuss free!

One bedroom deluxe: RMB16,000 /month

Two bedroom Executive: RMB26,000 / month

Three bedroom Deluxe: RMB33,000 /month

Email: [email protected]

com

Website: http://beijing-east.frasershospitality.com

Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988

FraserSuite CBD Beijing

The ultimate luxury in apartment living,

Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style and comfort, that surpasses the service level of many Beijing hotels. The 357

Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features contemporary concepts designed for luxury living.

12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing

Tel: 5908 6000

GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING

One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC

Residence is located beside the third ring road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway line

5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is also within easily reach of CBD, embassy area, Financial Street and other urban commercial,shopping and recreation areas.

Fully equipped apartments with impeccable quality offer you a cozy living system and will meet all of your requirements for room decoration, furniture, electric appliances etc..

Unique sky garden with golf practice field and barbecue area is another symbol of

GTC Residence.

E-mail: [email protected]

website: www.gtcresidence.com

Tel:56756666

Lanson Place

Lanson Place Central Park Serviced

Residences, located in the Central Business

District of Chaoyang, offers spacious apartments in two, three and four bedroom configurations as well as penthouses overlooking a charming landscaped garden.

The interiors are contemporary and restful while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens are fully equipped.

Website: www.lansonplace.com

Lanson Place Central Park Residences

Tower 23, Central Park, No.6 Chaoyangmenwai Avenue,Chaoyang District, Beijing

Tel: 8588 9588 Fax: 8588 9549

The Millennium Residences of the Beijing

Fortune Plaza

The Millennium Residences of the Beijing

Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of the Beijing CBD which bears the most momentously potential of development and value elevation. While 25 minutes away from the Beijing International Airport, the

Millennium Residences is walking distance from nearly all Embassies.

7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang District.

Tel: 8588 2888

Oakwood Residence Beijing

Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406 fully equipped luxury apartments ranging from studios to four bedroom penthouse and terrace apartments, all exquisitely furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art air purification and air conditioning system which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered air, so you can trust in Oakwood and breathe easy.

No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang

District, Beijing 100027, China [email protected]

Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing

Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999

THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES

The Westin Executive Residences at The

Beijing Financial Street offer an array of world-class cuisine options and Westin’s signature amenities designed to elicit personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the airport, the Westin Executive Residences provides direct access to Beijing’s business, entertainment and shopping district and close proximity to cultural landmarks such as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen

Square. Each apartment is also fitted with contemporary furnishings, fully equipped kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home entertainment system and LCD flat screen televisions.

Email: [email protected]

Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial

Tel: 6606 8866

BeAuty ServiceS

Black Golden Tanning Salon Sanlitun

Branch Grand Opening

Black Golden Tanning Salon is the only fivestar China flagship store by Ergoline. As the 2011 model of Ergoline Esprit 770’s, to bring a continuous tanning effect 25% above standard machines with unique aquacool and aroma functions, we provide customers with the safest and most comfortable tanning space.

Open time:11:00-21:00

Sanlitun SOHO Branch

Add: 2rd Floor Building 3, Sanlitun

SOHO,Chaoyang District

Tel: 57853711

Wangjing Branch

Add: Room T5 3rd Floor, BOTAI International Building, No. 36 North Guangshun

Street, Wangjing, Chaoyang District

Website: www.bjtanning.com

Tel: 84722855

LA BELLEZA

La Belleza means Beauty and Aesthetics in

Spanish. Professional hair-designers from

Hong Kong ,Korea and China gather here.

LA BELLEZA is the hairdressing salon for you with its pleasant atmosphere, excellent service, and finest products.

New haircut! Good mood! Excellent life!

Add: F4 No.408, Jinbao Place .Jinbao Street

No88,Dongcheng District, Beijing, china.

Website: www.labelleza.com.cn

Tel: 010 8522 1626

MegaSun Tanning Salon

As the only flagship store for this popular

German tanning salon, megaSun Tanning

78

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

will provide for each client the finest sun tanning experience.

Our center has prepared the newest functional 7900 alpha and pureEnergy chamber systems, combined with easyCare optical testers. At megaSun, enjoy our professional UV and tanning services.

Add: #8 Dongdaqiao Road, Shangdu SOHO

North Tower, Rm. 2302

Chaoyang District, Beijing

Website: www.imegasun.com

e-mail: [email protected]

Sina Weibo: @ 麦肤堂

Tel: 5900-2236/2238

BuSineSS center

CSO (Singapore) Beijing Business Center

We have 10 years experience in managing serviced offices in the Asia and

Pacific region, and our headquarters is in

Singapore. CSO Beijing is our first business center in China . We are mainly providing fully renovated and equipped offices to clients for immediate use, and all the serviced offices can be used as incorporation purpose, and we offer maximum flexibility and complete smart office system to help our clients save cost. We also provide virtual offices, meeting room and conference room, video conferencing, incorporation services and many other services.

Add.: Level 6, Sun Palace Building,

Taiyanggong, Beijing

Ms. Stephanie Yan, Mobile: 18210080591

Email: [email protected]

Website: www.csochina.cn

Tel: 86 10 64697000

Regus Business Centre

Premium Business Centre

12 in Beijing, 70+ in Greater China

Tel: +86 400 120 1205

Website: www.regus.cn

Regus is the world’s largest provider of workplace solutions, with products and services ranging from fully equipped offices to professional meeting rooms, business lounges and the world’s largest network of video communication studios.

Regus China Central Place

9/F Tower 2 China Central Place

79 Jianguo Road

Chaoyang District

Close to Dawanglu station (Line 1)

Regus China Life Tower

5/F China Life Tower

16 Chaoyangmenwai Street

Chaoyang District

Close to Chaoyangmen station (Line 2)

Regus China World Tower 3

15/F China World Tower 3

1 Jianguomenwai Avenue

Chaoyang District

Close to Guomao station (Line 1, 10)

Regus IFC

10/F, IFC East Tower

8 Jianguomenwai Avenue

Chaoyang District

Close to Yong’anli station (Line 1)

Regus Kerry Centre

11/F Kerry Centre, North Tower

1 Guanghua Road

Chaoyang District

Close to Jintaixizhao station (Line1, 10)

Regus Lufthansa Center

C203 Lufthansa Center

50 Liangmaqiao Road

Chaoyang District

Close to Liangmaqiao station (Line 10)

Regus NCI Tower

15/F NCI Tower

12 A Jianguomenwai Avenue

Chaoyang District

Close to Yong’anli station (Line 1)

Regus Pacific Century Place

14/F IBM Tower, PCP

2A Workers Stadium Road North

Chaoyang District

Close to Tuanjie Lake station (Line 10)

Regus Parkview Green

15/F Office Building A, Parkview Green

9 Dongdaqiao Road

Chaoyang District

Close to Dongdaqiao station (Line 6)

Regus Prosper Center

6/F Tower 2, Prosper Center

No.5 Guang Hua Road

Chaoyang District

Close to Yong’anli station (Line 1,10)

Regus Financial Street Excel Centre

12/F Financial Street Excel Centre

6 Wudinghou Street

Xicheng District

Close to Fuchengmen station (Line 2)

Regus Zhongguancun Metropolis Tower

7/F Metropolis Tower

2 Dongsan Street, Zhongguancun Xi Zone

Haidian District

Close to Zhongguancun station (Line 4,10) cABLe ServiceS

Super IPTV

Super IPTV offers 90+ international channels in HD quality, delivered to your television through a set top box via a broadband connection. Just like cable back home, pick up the remote control and start watching. Includes HBOHD, Fox Movies HD,

Star Movies, CNN, BBC, CNBC, Star World,

AXN, Discovery, Disney Junior, Cartoon, Fox

Sports, EPL, ESPN, Star sports, SETANTA

Sports, F1 and much more.

// (www.superiptv.com, [email protected]; 133

716 00100/139 1188 5499) cAr rentAL Service

Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd

Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd was set up specifically to cater for the needs of the expatriate communities, we provide:

English -speaking driver, Long-short term leasing, Airport-Pick up/ Drop off, Sedan,

Van and Bus.

Email: [email protected]

Website: www.expatslife.com

Tel: 64381634 Mobile: 13501237292 cAtering ServiceS

Aurora Catering

An 100% authentic Italian experience whether tasting a mouthful Lasagna or a juicy Carpaccio. Our international team brings to you the authentic freshness and tidbit of an Italian Espresso or a homemade tastiness of a Mozzarella.

We offer a full range of catering and event planning services for all types of business and personal functions that are tailored for you. The best service, at your service.

Contact Jacopo Tomé at 137 1794 0458 [email protected]

Zone de Comfort

With our professional service, you can focus 100% on your event at Zone de

Comfort, every single assignment is unique for us. Our experience helps us understand your objectives with thorough planning, and of course, exquisite food with elegant presentation.

In the past 5 years, we have handled numerous catering projects covering diplomatic/business functions for embassies, high-end cocktail receptions for luxuries brands, automobiles and month-

long hospitality center services. Find out more from our Website: www.zdc-catering.

com chineSe LeArning

Beijing Juncheng Language School

北京君诚语言学校

With professional teachers and high quality teaching methods, we have gained good reputation from our students and different foreign institutions for more than 12 years.

We provide all levels Mandarin group and private classes.

// Room 208,No.1 Panjiapo Hutong,

Chaoyangmenwai, Dongcheng District 东

城区朝阳门外潘家坡胡同1号东城区职工大学

208办公室 (6525 9932/6526 7539)

Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Road, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District, Beijing

顺义区后

沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (8049 0307)

(www.junchengedu.com, [email protected] sina.com)

The Bridge School

北京桥汉语言学校

The school has 20 years of history, and currently about 150 committed teachers and over 60 contracted companies/ embassies. Our own textbooks with memory cards and CDs are published by Beijing Language and Culture University, and we are the official test centre for HSK,BCT and YCTexam. There are over 5000 worldwide students at  The Bridge School annually.

// Guangming Hotel (The Bridge

School Head office): Room503, 5/F.

Tel: 15321793321 Grettchin conSuLting Service

Harris Corporate Services Ltd

Beijing | Shanghai | Guangzhou | Hong

Kong

Established since 1972

WFOE & Rep. Office Set Up

Accounting & Tax Compliance

Payroll, HR & Visa Solutions

Hong Kong & Offshore Company Registration

Hong Kong & China Bank Account Opening

Serving all your business needs for investing in China. Call us for a free consultation.

Tel: (86)10-6591 8087

Mobile: 186-019-43718

Email: [email protected]

Beijing:

Room 2302, E-Tower, No.12 Guanghua

Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing, PRC.

北京市朝阳区光华路 12 号数码 01 大厦 2302

Shanghai:

Suite 904, OOCL Plaza, 841 Yan An Zhong

Road, Jing-An District, Shanghai, PRC.

上海市静安区延安中路 841 号东方海外大厦

904 室

Guangzhou:

Room D-E, 11/F., Yueyun Building, 3

Zhongshan 2nd Road, Guangzhou, PRC.

广州市中山二路 3 号 ( 东山口 ) 粤运大厦 11

楼 D-E 室

Hong Kong:

7/F., Hong Kong Trade Centre, 161-167 Des

Voeux Road Central, Hong Kong.

香港德辅道中 161-167 号香港贸易中心 7 楼

Beijing Office-TMF Group

In order to enable clients benefit from the increasing globalization of the worlds economy, TMF Group offers a comprehensive range of corporate administrative outsourcing services in 67 counties across the globe. With a genuine global network and qualified staff, TMF group provides an array of accounting, corporate secretarial and HR administrative outsourcing services.

[email protected]

Website: http://www.tmf-group.com

CCTV Tower and Kerry Centre

Suite 3107, Tower A Beijing Fortune Plaza,7

Dongsanhuan Zhong Road, Chaoyang

District

Tel: 65330533-860 educAtionAL Service

Ivy Bilingual School

Ivy Bilingual School offers a curriculum based on the Multiple Intelligences theory and provides an immersive bilingual program, where both Chinese and Western teachers interact with children throughout the day. There are two Ivy Bilingual Schools in Beijing.

Address:Building E, Ocean Express, No.

2 East Third Ring North Road, Chaoyang

District, Beijing 100027

Website: www.ivyschools.com

Email: [email protected]

010 8446 7287

LEMBA

The Leadership EMBA from the University of Maryland

Robert H. Smith School of Business is a unique learning experience in Beijing. The program offers world class executive and leadership education from some of the best professors the world has to offer. Every month one of the professors from the

University of Maryland comes to Beijing to instruct the class for 4 consecutive days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18 months; the impact lasts a lifetime.

Email: [email protected]

Tel: 8526 2528/29

Furniture

Crossover

Crossover Center Flagship Store, is mainly marketing international super home furnishing brand products.

Our agent brands include Poltrona Frau,

Cassina, Fritz Hansen, Moroso, Cappellini,

Timothy Oulton, Tom Dixon etc, over

20 international super home furnishing brands.

Our products are covered with all of fields in daily-life home furnishing, including furniture, furnishing, lighting, dinning, and office supplies etc.

Website: www.crossovercenter.com

NO.81 North Road San-Li-Tun Bar St. Chao-

Yang District.Beijing.100027,P.R.C.

Tel: 5208 6112/6113 Fax: 8610-5208 6123 houSeKeePing

JNY Home Service

JNY Home Service was established in

2007, supplying foreign families with

English speaking/non-English Speaking nannies(maids), either daily or live-in.

As a part of our service,we make sure all references and ID cards are thoroughly checked to guarantee the safety and health of your family.

Email : [email protected]

Mobile: 13426362833(24h)

Beijing EX-PATS Service

Healty, reliable, experienced, Englishspeaking housemaid/ nanny. Free agency and 24- hour English service. Medical and Accident insurrance covered. EXPATS

Life Group also serves with Mandarin, car leasing, English-speaking driver, Chinese driving license, vehicle registration. [email protected]

Website: www.expatslife.com

Tel: 64381634

Mobile: 13501237292 moving & ShiPPing

Seven Seas Worldwide

Save up to 50%! We’re the first choice when it comes to moving baggage internationally from one box up to 2M3. We offer a global, door-to-door service with prices starting from RMB 999 by sea and RMB 1580 by air.

Call 400 181 6698 now for an instant quote or book online at www.sevenseasworldwide.com

recruitmentS

The Pearl Golf Club

The Pearl Golf Club, an American owned and operated company is the largest luxury golf simulation club in Beijing. The

Pearl Golf Club is an exclusive, membersonly club designed to serve the unique needs of Beijing’s elite. We are looking for an energetic, vibrant and responsible

Sales Associate with outstanding sales and communication skills who can work under pressure. The responsibilities for this position will include developing and maintaining a client pipeline and planning and hosting luxury events.

If you are interested this opportunity and meet our requirements please send your

CV to [email protected]

SPortS

California Fitness Beijing Club.

California Fitness Beijing is over 3,000 sqm, with modern exercise equipment, cardio and resistance training, steam rooms, group exercise studios and more.

Our Group X program is among the best in the region, and with membership you have access to over 150 weekly Group X classes and a team of professional personal trainers in Asia.  Your membership also includes free towel usage and a fitness assessment.

Address: South Tower,L4,No.9 Guanghua

Road ,Chaoyang District , Beijing .

Fax: 010-65871477

Website: www,californiafitness.com

Tel: 4008-100-988

Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅

Cycle China provides organized cycling and hiking tours in and around Beijing as well as longer tours throughout China. Some of their more popular tours take cyclists through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen

Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs.

Address:No. 12 Jingshan East Street,

Dongcheng District, Beijing  东城区景山东

街 12 号

Email us at [email protected] or [email protected]

Tel: 6402 5653  Mobile: 13911886524

StorAge

China Self Storage Co. Ltd

As a member of SSA and SSAUK, China Self

Storage Co. Ltd. introduces an international industry standard to professionally developed Self Storage for private, family and business. Safe, clean, air-conditioned,

24h access, flexible size. To learn more, visit www.selfstorageinchina.com. To make a reservation, contact 400-600-6378 [email protected] selfstorageinchina.com.

Jin’an Building, Tianzhu Garden West Rd.,

Shunyi District, Beijing.

trAveL ServiceS

Silk Road Travel Management Ltd.

Silk Road Travel is a pioneer in organizing

Silk Road tours and other classic routes through China. Founded in 1997, we are specialized in tailor made travel packages that allow travelers to truly experience local cultures and explore China’s amazing cultural heritage. Whether you are a small group of 2-9 persons or a corporate group, our professional staff will design a tour program based on your needs.  

Email: [email protected]

www.the-silk-road.com

Tel: (+852) 2736 8828

Fax: (+852) 2736 8000

TUI China

An affiliate of World of TUI, the world’s leading tourism group, TUI China was established in late 2003 as the first joint venture with foreign majority share in the

Chinese tourism industry. Its headquarters are in Beijing whilst its operations reach deep into the far corners of China. World of TUI generated approx.50,000 predominantly western tourists to China yearly and provides M.I.C.E services for renowned companies worldwide. 

Add: Bright China Chang An Building,

Tower 2, Unit 921-926, 7 Jianguomen Nei

Avenue (Fax: +86 (0)10 6517 1371; Email: [email protected]; Website: www.tui.cn; Tel:

8519 8800 reAL eStAte AgentS

JOANNA REAL ESTATE RELOCATION

SERVICE

We are one of China’s leading real estate agencies boasting an extensive database of high-end properties for rent. We have helped thousands of expatriates find their homes as well as hundreds of companies re-locate their employees. Once we have found you your ideal home we will be on hand to deal with any post move issues and our dedicated after sales team will be contactable 7 days a week to help you with any queries you have throughout your stay in our country.

For more information please contact us:

Email: [email protected]

Website: http://beijing.joannarealestate.

com.cn/ (Tel: 84585667 ; 13501358971)

“One of a Kind”

—173m² duplex apt. in Park Avenue,wellmanaged and good security compound,near Chaoyang Park,2 beds and 2 baths,master-room with walk-in closet,delightful furnishing,come with 80m² private GARDEN,¥20800/m

—122m² duplex apt. in Central Park at

CBD,2 beds and 2 baths,very cosy,high floor,¥19500/m

—110m² “King-Size” one bed apt. in Central

Park,delicate furniture,large living and dining area ¥15500/m for viewing please call frankie at 10-

85325104 or 13911091759 PROPERTY ONE

Replus-Benchmark

“Replus-Benchmark” is one of the leading real estate agencies and relocation service provider for expatriates in Shanghai,

Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu and

Shenzhen.

• Residential Home Search Service

• Visa Application

• Commercial Office Space Search Service

• Buying and Selling Property Service

E-mail: [email protected]

Website: www.replus-benchmark.com

A-1509,Xiaoyun Center, No.15 of Xiaoyun

Road, Chaoyang District Beijing

Tel: 84467119 Fax: 84467577 recording StudioS

Baihua Recording Studio:

Established in 1981, costings RMB10 million for a total space of 400sqm, our studio is built on a foundation of spring-formed cement suspension structures.

This is a place worthy of being Asia’s finest recording studio. Here you’ll find China’s hifi music holy land, the fountain of Chinese

Rock and Roll music.

We’ve recorded with artists like Tang

Dynasty, Black Panther, Compass, He Yong

– “Garbage”, Zhang Chu - “Sisters”, Chen

Sheng – “One Night in Beijing”; this is just the tip of the iceberg.

Many musicians have come here to record their music, and Baihua Studio is THE place to make music.

Equipment Sales, Speaker/Equipment

Rental, Music Training, and practice sessions are all available.

You can find everything you need in regards to music…HERE.

We are the home of your imagination, with quality level equipment and top level music designed recording studio. Here is where musicians make music happen.

The Baihua Music Education Team is formed from professional 1st line music artists, with professional attitudes and high quality programs taught by knowledgeable music professors you can trust, in areas of guitar, bass, drums, and computer musicial programs.

Baihua Recording Studio, No.16, Xinjiekou

South Street, Baihuashenchu Xicheng

District.

百花录音棚 , 北京市西城区

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

79

3

4

1

CPYPTIC PICTURES

WIN TICKETS TO THE ROLLING STONES!

We have a pair of tickets to the Rolling Stones concert on March 12 (see p32) to give away. Simply solve our Stones song title cryptic pictures and send the answers to [email protected] with the subject ‘Satisfaction’ by the end of February for a chance to win.

How it works: Each picture represents a word or syllable. Spoken out loud the below combinations will create the name of a Stones song.

2

5

6

8

7

January issue answers: 1. Artax 2. Black Beauty 3. Boxer 4. Bucephalus 5. Trojan Horse 6. Copenhagen 7. The Pie 8. Incitatus 9. Mr. Ed

10. Marengo 11. Old Bob 12. Pokey 13. Rocinante 14. Shadowfax 15. Silver 16. Pegasus 17. Epona 18. Toronado 19. Trigger 20. Bullseye

80

February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com

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