Ultra Tester

Ultra Tester
Ultra Tester
All-In-One stomp circuit
testing solution
Contents of this document are ©2016 Pedal Parts Ltd.
No reproduction permitted without the express written
permission of Pedal Parts Ltd. All rights reserved.
IMPORTANT STUFF
Go no further until you’ve read this page.
VOLTAGE SELECTION
This is the one aspect of the tester which could damage your circuit under test if not
used correctly.
ALWAYS check your voltage settings are correct for the circuit being tested BEFORE
connecting it to the tester.
You have two switches on the left hand side - CHARGE PUMP and SUPPLY SOURCE.
With the SUPPLY SOURCE switch in the down position, your circuit is supplied
directly from your DC power source connected to DC1. With it in the up position, your
connected circuit is supplied from the CHARGE PUMP. In this case, ensure your
CHARGE PUMP switch is in the correct position.
CHARGE PUMP switch down will give you 18V, switch up will give -9V.
To test positive-ground circuits simply connect your circuit GND to the tester GND,
and your circuit -9V to the tester V. Select CHARGE PUMP > -9V, and set your
SUPPLY SOURCE to PUMP.
IMPORTANT HACK ALERT
IF YOU HAVE A BLUE PCB IGNORE THIS
The schematic on the next page shows -9V coming from pin 5 of IC1. On the PCB
that connection is actually on pin 6 - yes, we all make mistakes now and again.
See page 4 for the necessary hack information. It’s easy.
That’s about it. Carry on...
Schematics
BOM
R1
R2
R3
R4
R5
R6
CLR (2K2)*
27K
27K
4K7
4K7
22R
T1
100K
C1
C2
C3
C4
C5
C6
C7
C8
C9
10n
10n
22n
100n
100n**
10u elec
10u elec
10u elec
10u elec
Q1-2 2N3904
D2-3 1N4148
IC1 7660S***
There are lots of complex connections going on
in here, to do with switching the various sections
of the tester in and out of the signal path. The
only sections with components are shown above,
being the charge pump and the tone generator.
*R1 is the current limiter for the indicator LED,
and can be anything from 1K-4K7.
**C5 is a filter cap placed just before the audio
probe pads, not shown on either schematic
above.
***Ensure your charge pump has the ‘S’ suffix
otherwise it may operate on an audible
frequency, causing audible whine.
Striped leg (cathode) of diodes go into the
square pads. Long leg (anode) of electrolytic
capacitors go into square pads.
Long leg of LED goes into the round pad.
The tiny hack....
Not required on BLUE PCBs
We need to fix that -9V connection. This involves taking pin 6 of the IC out of the
circuit altogether, and joining the pads for pins 5 and 6 on the PCB.
Solder a jumper as shown across the pads for pins 5 and 6 on the PCB
Now, either snip pin
6 off your IC, or
simply bend it up as
shown before
inserting it into the
socket.
2-way screw
terminal
connector,
5mm pitch
SIL sockets
4 or 6 way
SPDT ON-ON
toggle switches
(tone gen switch is
DPDT ON-ON)
1/4” jack socket,
PCB-mount Stereo
(output jack can be mono)
2.1mm DC socket,
PCB-mount
3PDT Footswitch or
3PDT Toggle Switch
R1 can be your prefered value for the LED current limiting resistor - we supply 2K2 with
the kits. The short leg (-) of the LED (D1) goes into the square pad.
You don’t have to connect a battery snap to pads B+ and B- unless you intend to use one.
If you do, the battery will only be connected when a jack is inserted into the input socket.
Most circuits using the DIRECT CONNECT system will only have 4-way ribbon
connectors. Simply ignore the pads marked JI and JO when connecting them.
If your circuit under test isn’t DIRECT CONNECT, use the terminal block connections.
PCB Layout ©2016 Pedal Parts Ltd.
The tags of your footswitch or toggle switch should be oriented horizontally as
shown in red above.
If you want to wire up an off-board DC socket, the V and GND pads are marked on DC1.
There are extra pads just above the output jack for your charge pump voltage selection. As
this may be a less used function you can omit the toggle switch and use headers and a
jumper instead. Place a 3-pin header in the three pads marked 18/CV1/-9, and place a 2-pin
jumper across 18>CV1 or CV1>-9 to select either 18V or -9V supply.
AUDIO PROBE
There are two connection points for this - PROBE and AP2. PROBE is a 4mm hole which
will take a banana socket, enabling you to connect a 4mm test lead. Alternatively simply
solder a long wire into the AP2 pad, strip the other end and probe away.
TONE GENERATOR
Before you use the tone generator, turn T1 all the way down. This sets the volume of the
tone. To set this, plug in a guitar, connect to your amp, set the footswitch to bypass and
strum.
Now, turn on the tone generator and adjust T1 until the tone is around the same level as
the guitar. That’s it. Turn it back off - its rather annoying.
Now you can use the tone generator to test your circuit without having to play guitar.
Connect your circuit, turn click the footswitch to engage the circuit rather than bypass, and
turn on the tone generator. The signal is sent to the circuit input.
AUDIO PROBING
With the AUDIO PROBE engaged (switch UP) your output jack takes its signal straight from
the audio probe rather than from the circuit under test. Wherever you place the probe,
that’s the signal you’ll hear from the output jack. Be careful where you probe!
There’s a filter cap on the probe to prevent anything too nasty hitting your output jack.
If you’re using the tone generator to produce a signal while probing, you WILL hear it bleed
through to the output jack. That’s just the way it is. When you find a signal with the audio
probe it will be much louder than the bleed through.
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