53-71 Jeep CJ & DJ SM.pdf
1953-71
SERVICE
MANUAL
J
e
e
P
UNIVERSAL
4-WHEEL DRIVE
CJ-3B
CJ-5
CJ-5A
CJ-6
CJ-6A
2-WHEEL DRIVE
DJ-5
DJ-6
Copyright® 1977
FI Jeep Corporation
SECTION
NAME
Section
General Data
A
Lubrication
B
Tune-Up
C
Hurricane F4 Engine
D
Dauntless V-6 Engine
Dl
F u e l System
E
Exhaust System
Exhaust Emission Control
System F4 Engine
Exhaust Emission Control
System V6-225 Engine
F
Fl
Cooling System
G
Electrical
H
Clutch
I
3-Speed Transmission
J
4-Speed Transmission
Jl
Transfer Case
K
Propeller Shafts
L
Front Axle
M
Rear Axle
N
Steering
0
Brakes
P
Wheels
0
Frame
R
Springs
Shock Absorbers
S
Body
T
Miscellaneous
U
Corporate Publications
Printed in USA
INDEX
F2
Reprinted 6-77
SM-1046
I M P O R T A N T DEALER I N F O R M A T I O N
This manual, SM-1046, covers current 'Jeep' Universal Series vehicles, and
past models, except as noted hereinafter:
SM-1037 should be retained in your service library for
information related to the 6-volt electrical system, or the
single brake system.
SM-1002-R5 (no longer available) should be retained
for information related to the CJ-2A, CJ-3A or DJ-3A
models equipped with the L4-134 engine.
The above three manuals provide full service coverage since inception of the
'Jeep' Universal and Jeep' Dispatcher model vehicles.
1
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
A
GENERAL DHTfl
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
General
Vehicle Description
Vehicle Identification
Identification Number Location
Serial Number Location
Engine Code Number
Plate-And-Trim Option Plate
General Specifications
A-1. G E N E R A L
This manual is provided for the guidance of all
automotive service men, vehicle owners, and
service salesmen who repair, maintain, or adjust
the 'Jeep' Universal Series vehicles. The information herein was prepared from the service man's
viewpoint to give him the accurate and concise
data he may need to service the entire vehicle.
The information is not elementary as it is intended
for automotive service men who are familiar with
automotive construction and repair in general. It
is not intended, nor would it be possible in such
limited space, to cover every possible repair that
he may encounter. All specifications are in accord
with Engineering Specifications and should be
adhered to in all work on the vehicle.
The manual sections follow logical division into
major components of the vehicles. The first page
of each section has a detailed index of the contents
of that section. Subject matter covers all models
included in this manual unless an exception for a
particular model is specifically mentioned.
Specifications and components covered were for
standard production models of 'Jeep' vehicles
current at the time the manual was approved for
printing. 'Jeep' Corporation reserves the right to
discontinue models at any time or change specifications or design of any of its models without
notice and without incurring any obligation.
A-2. Vehicle Description
This manual covers all standard production 'Jeep'
Universal models currently being produced at the
time this manual was approved for publication.
Significant changes made in each model since it
was first produced are included in the manual.
A description of each model follows. General
specifications for each model are listed in Par. A-8.
Detailed specifications covering major vehicle units
are listed at the end of each section of the manual.
A-l
.A-2
A-3
A-4
A-5
A-6
A-7
A-8
C J - 3 B — This is a 4-wheel-drive 'Jeep' Universal
model, equipped with the four-cylinder
Hurricane F4-134 engine. Wheelbase is
80".
CJ-5
CJ-5A — These are 4-wheel-drive 'Jeep' Universal
models, equipped with either the Dauntless V-6 engine, or the four-cylinder
Hurricane F4-134 engine. Wheelbase is
81".
CJ-6
CJ-6A — These are 4-wheel-drive 'Jeep' Universal
models, equipped with either the Dauntless V-6 engine, or the four-cylinder
Hurricane F4-134 engine. Wheelbase is
101".
DJ-5
DJ-6 — These are 2-wheel-drive 'Jeep' Universal
models, equipped with the four-cylinder
Hurricane F4-134 engine. DJ-5 wheelbase is 81". DJ-6 wheelbase is 101".
A-3. Vehicle Identification
Each 'Jeep' vehicle model series has one or more
serial number prefixes to identify it. Complete
identification of a specific vehicle requires the
prefix plus the serial number. Serial numbers are
consecutive for each prefix grouping. Prefix information following will identify the 'Jeep' models
shown by serial number prefix from model inception
to date.-. • ' .
Note: Vehicles with a serial number prefix of five
(5) or more digits that have an S, 5, or 7 as the last
digit are equipped with Exhaust Emission Control.
A number 1 in the sixth (6th) digit within a seven
(7) digit vehicle serial number prefix indicates
Left Hand Drive; a 2 indicates Right Hand Drive;
a 3 indicates Left Hand Drive California Exhaust
Emission Control Engine; a 4 indicates Right Hand
Drive California Exhaust Emission Control Engine.
3
A
G E N E R A L DATA
'Jeep'
Model
Serial No.
Prefix
CJ-3B
453-GB2
454-GB2
57348
8105
8105014
CJ-5
'Jeep'
Model
Serial No.
Prefix
57548
8305
8305A
8305S
8305AS
8305014
8305015
8305016
8305017
CJ-6
57648
8405
8405A
8405S
8405AS
8405014
8405015
8405016
8405017
CJ-5A
8322
8322A
8322S
83 2 2AS
CJ-6A
8422
8422A
8422S
8422AS .
DJ-5
8505
8505A
8505S
8505AS
8505014
8505015
8505016
8505017
DJ-6
8605
8605A
8605S
8605AS
Any prefix not given here for one of the listed
models indicates a special vehicle whose differences
from standard are not covered in this manual.
F I G . A-2 C J - 3 B V E H I C L E
SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION
A-6. Engine Code Number
The engine identification number consists of a
prefix followed by a five-digit or six-digit code
number. The prefix identifies the particular engine.
The F4-134 engine code number is stamped on the
A-4. IDENTIFICATION NUMBER
LOCATION
All 'Jeep* vehicles and some of their major components have identifying numbers. Paragraphs following will describe the location of identifying
numbers.
A-5. Vehicle Serial Number
The vehicle serial number is stamped on a metal
plate located on the dash under the hood. It is on
the left side of the vehicle for models CJ-5, CJ-5A,
CJ-6, CJ-6A, DJ-5 and DJ-6 as shown in Fig. A - l .
It is on the right side of the vehicle for model
CJ-3B, as shown in Fig. A-2. Refer to Par. A-3 for
specific information on codes.
F I G . A - l — C J - 5 , CJ-5A, CJ-6, CJ-6A, DJ-5, DJ-6
VEHICLE SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION
4
FIG. A-3—ENGINE CODE NUMBER LOCATION
H U R R I C A N E F4-134
FIG. A-4—ENGINE CODE NUMBER LOCATION
D A U N T L E S S V-6
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L
S E R I E S S E R V I C E MANUAL
A
water pump boss at the front of the engine, as
shown in Fig. A-3. The Dauntless V-6 code number
is stamped on the right front face of the cylinder
block, just below the rocker arm cover as shown in
Fig. A-4.
A-7. P a i n t - a n d - T r i m Option Plate
A Paint-and-Trim Option Plate is installed on late
production 'Jeep' vehicles. The paint code on the
plate identifies the paint colors. The trim code on
the plate identifies the color of all trim parts in the
interior of the vehicle.
To identify paint or trim on vehicles manufactured
before the Paint-and-Trim Option Plate was installed, see your 'Jeep' dealer.
'Jeep' Universals have the plate located on the
right hand side of the dash under the hood, as
shown in Fig. A-5.
F I G . A-5—PAINT A N D T R I M
OPTION P L A T E LOCATION
5
GENERAL DATA
A-8. GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
CJ-3B
CJ-5, CJ-5A
DJ-5
CJ-6, CJ-6A
DJ-6
F-4
4
3.125 [7,93 cm.]
4.375 [11,11 cm.]
134.2 cu. in. [2,20 ltr.]
F-4
4
3.125 [7,93 cm.]
4.375 [11,11 cm.]
134.2 cu. in. [2,20 ltr.]
F-4
4
3,125 [7.93 cm.]
4.375 [11,11 cm.]
134.2 cu. in. [2,20 ltr.]
7.4:1
7.8:1
6.9:1
120 to 130 psi.
[8,4 a 9,2 kg-cm ]
75 <§ 4000 rpm.
15.63
114 lb-ft. [15,8 kg-m.]
6.7:1
7.1:1
6.3:1
7.4:1
7.8:1
6.9:1
120 to 130 psi.
[8,4 a 9,2 kg-cm ]
75 @ 4000 rpm.
15.63
114 lb-ft. [15,8 kg-m.]
6.7:1
7.1:1
6.3:1
7.4:1
7.8:1
6.9:1
120 to 130 psi.
[8,4 a 9,2 kg-cm ]
75 @ 4000 rpm.
15.63
114 lb-ft. [15,8 kg-m.]
80" [2,03 m.]
48 -'f ' [1,23 m.|
6634" [1,68 m.j
129%" [3,30 m.]
68%" [1,75 m.]
8" [20,32 cm.]
V-6
6
3.750" [9,525 cm.]
3.400" [8,636 cm.]
225 cu. in. [3,69 ltr.]
9.0:1
160 @ 4200 rpm.
33.748
235 lb-ft. [32,49 kg-m.]
81" [2,06 m.]
48K " [1,23 m.]
67" [1,70 m.]
138%" [3,51 m.]
71%" [1,82 m.]
8" [20,32 cm.]
V-6
6
3.750" [9,525 cm.]
3.400" [8,636 cm.]
225 cu. in. [3,69 ltr.]
9.0:1
160 @, 4200 rpm.
33 748
235 lb-ft. [32,49 kg-m.]
101" [2,57 m.]
48^6* ]1,23 m.]
67" [1,70 m.]
1583/4" [4,02 m.]
71%" [1,82 m.]
8" [20,32 cm.]
U.S.
Imperial
Metric
10.5 gal.
16 gal.
8.8 gal.
13.3 gal.
39,75 ltr.
60,57 ltr.
12 qt.
10 qt.
10 qt.
8 qt.
11,4 ltr.
9,5 ltr.
1 qt.
.8 qt.
0,9 ltr.
MODEL:
Engine:.
Number of Cylinders
Bore. .
Stroke.
Displacement
Compression Ratio:
Late Production —
—
—
E a r l y Production —
—
—
Compression Pressure
Standard
Optional.
Optional.
Standard
Optional.
Optional.
2
2
Horsepower (max. Brake)
Horsepower ( S A E )
Torque (Max. at 2000 rpm.). . . .
Engine:
Number of Cylinders
Bore
Stroke
Displacement
Compression Ratio
Horsepower (max. Brake).
Horsepower ( S A E )
Torque (Max. at 2400 rpm.). . . .
Wheelbase
Tread (front and rear)
,
Height (Over all)
Length (Over all).
Width (Over all)
Ground Clearance
CAPACITIES:
Fuel T a n k (Approximate):
E a r l y Models
Late Models
Cooling System
F 4 Models
V-6 Models
Note: I f not equipped
with heater deduct
7
/
6
6
CJ- 3B
W E I G H T S (Approximate):
Gross Vehicle Weight ( G V W ) .
Shipping — V 6 Engine
F 4 Engine
Curb — V 6 Engine
F 4 Engine
For Canvas Half-Top Model, add
For Canvas Full-Top Model, add
For H a r d T o p Model, add
DJ-5
CJ-6
CJ-5
lb.
kg.
lb.
kg.
lb.
kg.
3500
—
2132
—
2243
35
56
1587
'—
967
—
1017
17
25
3750
2240
2163
2351
2274
38
56
340
1701
1016
981
1066
1031
17
25
154
3900
2302
2225
2413
2336
38
60
1769
1044
1009
1094
1060
17
27
~ ~
6
2
lb.
3200
1900
1796
2011
1907
38
56
340
D J -6
kg.
lb.
kg.
1451
862
814
912
865
17
25
154
3200
2033
1858
2144
1969
38
60
1451
922
842
972
893
17
27
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
B
LUBRICATION AND PERIODIC S E R V I C E S
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL
Chassis Lubrication
Engine Lubrication System
Special Lubricants
Fresh Lubricant.
.B-l
B-7
B-4, B-6
B-2
.B-3
LUBRICATION CHARTS .
Pages 8, 9
S E R V I C E M A I N T E N A N C E S C H E D U L E . .B-8
Air Cleaner
B-2 5, B-2 6
Air Filter — F . E . E . C . System Canister
B-2 4
Axle U-Bolts
B-49
Body Lube Points:
B-65
Hood Hinge Pivot Points
B-66
Glove Compartment Door Latch
B-6 7
Tailgate Hinges
.B-68
Brakes, Adjust
.B-41
Brake Linings
.B-42
Brake Master Cylinder
B-40
Charging Circuit
B-l9
Clutch .
B-43, B-44
Cooling System—Radiator.
B-28, B-29
Differentials . . . . . . . . .B-50, B-51, B-52, B-53
Distributor
B-14, B-l5
Engine Oil
B-9
Engine Oil Filter
B-10, B - l l
Engine Tune-Up
B-20
Exhaust Emission Control System
B-2 2
Exhaust Manifold Heat Control Valve. . . . B - l 2
Exhaust System
B-2 3
Fan Belt
. .B-21
Front Axle U-Joint
B-54, B-55
Generator
.B-16
Headlights
B-61
Heater Controls
B-62
Lights and Controls
B-59
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve. . . . B - l 3
Shock Absorbers
B-48
Spark Plugs.
B-17
Speedometer Cable.
.B-60
Spring Bushings..
. .B-46
Spring Shackles
.B-47
Steering Gear
B-2 7
B-l. GENERAL
All 'Jeep' Universal vehicles require periodic lubrication and other maintenance services for normal
vehicle usage and application to promote satisfactory operation and prevent excessive wear. Under severe operating or atmospheric conditions
these services should be performed more often than
under normal conditions. It should also be remembered that common short trips and stop-and-go
driving are more severe on lubrication points than
SUBJECT
PAR.
Starting Circuit
B-l8
Tie Rod and Drag Link Sockets
. B-45
Tires
B-64
Transmission and Transfer Case—
Lubricant Level Check
B-30
General
B-31
Transfer Case
B-32
Transmission
.B-33
Transmission and Transfer Case —
Lubricant Change
.B-34
General
.B-35
Transfer Case
B-36
Transmission
B-3 7, B-38
Transfer Case Linkage
B-39
Universal Joints and Slip Joints. . . . . . . . .B-58
Wheel Bearings.. . . . . . . . . .
. . .B-56, B-57
Windshield Wiper and Washer
B-63
LUBRICATION OF
OPTIONAL E Q U I P M E N T
Centrifugal Governor.
Pintle Hook
Powr-Lok or Trac-Lok Differential
B-69
.B-71
.B-70
B-72
PARTS REQUIRING
NO L U B R I C A T I O N .
..
Alternator Bearings.
Clutch Release Bearings. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Shock Absorbers
Springs
Starter Motor Bearings
Water Pump Bearings
.B-73
B-76
.B-74
B-78
B-7 7
B-75
B-74
LUBRICATION REQUIREMENTS
FOR OFF-HIGHWAY OPERATIONS
Air Cleaner
Chassis Lubrication
Engine Oil
Engine Oil Filter
Differentials
Front Axle U-Joints.
Transfer Case and Transmission
B-79
B-82
B-83
B-80
B-81
.B-86
B-84
.B-85
constant speed driving on highways, and even more
intensified in extreme cold or hot weather; therefore, vehicles driven under these conditions must
be lubricated and serviced more often than normally operated vehicles. The specifications of types
and amounts of lubricant given in the Lubrication
Chart and text of this section should be closely
followed. The off-highway operation lubrication
notes, given in the last part of the section, should
be followed when applicable.
7
B
LUBRICATION
D0®
®
®
®
FIG. B-l—-LUBRICATION CHART — 4-WHEEL D R I V E VEHICLES
CHART
NO.
I T E M TO B E
LUBRICATED
FREQUENCY
1000 miles — 1.600 km.
U.S.
Chassis Bearings. . .
Spring Shackle and
Pivot Bushings...
Universal Joints
Propeller Shaft
Front Axle
Steering Gear Housing
Rear Wheel BearingstS
Front Wheel Bearings <S>.
Transmission:
3 Speed
4 Speed °
Transfer Case
10.
11.
13.
14.
Differentials
Front.
Rear
Speedometer Cable
Generator — F 4
Distributor — F4
Oiler
Wick
Pivot.
Gam
Distributor C a m — V 6 .
Air Cleaner — F 4
— V6
Engine — F4
Engine — V 6 .
LUBRICANT
QUANTITY
GRADE
TYPE
Imperial Metric
E a c h 2,000 miles
As required
Chassis Lubricant
No. 1
No. 1
/ W i t h Lube Fitting;
(Each 2,000 miles
[Without Lube Fittings:
\ N o Lubrication
As required
Chassis Lubricant
No. 1
No. 1
E a c h 2,000 miles
f Check each 2,000 miles
\ Change each 12,000 miles
Check each 2,000 miles
fWith Lube Fittings:
1 Sparingly each 2,000 miles
J Without Lube Fitting:
| Disassemble to lubricate
\each 12,000 miles
Disassemble to lubricate
each 12,000 miles
I Check each 2,000 miles
l Change each 12,000 miles
/Check each 2,000 miles
l Change each 12,000 miles
!Check each 2,000 miles
\ Change each 12,000 miles
As required
As required
Chassis Lubricant
GL3
No. 1
SAE-140
No. 1
SAE-140
As required
As required
MIL-L-2105-B
Wheel Bearing Lubricant
SAE-80
No. 2
S A E - 80
No. 2
As required
Wheel Bearing Lubricant
No. 2
No. 2
1,2 ltrs.
GL4
SAE-90
S A E 80
6 H pts. 5 M pts. 3,2 ltrs.
GL4
SAE-90
S A E 80
GL4
SAE-90
S A E 80
2 H Pts.
3Mpti«
2 pts.
3 pts.
1,5 ltrs.
f Check each 2,000 miles
\ Change each 12,000 miles
. Disassemble to lubricate
each 12,000 miles
E a c h 2,000 miles
2 M pts. 2 pts. 1,2 ltrs.
2 Yi pts. 2 pts. 1,2 ltrs.
As required
MIL-L-2105-B
MIL-L-2105-Bttt
Graphite Grease
Several Drops
Engine Oil
Same as engine
E a c h 2,000 miles
E a c h 2,000 miles
E a c h 2,000 miles
E a c h 2,000 miles
At each breaker point replacement
/ E a c h 2,000 miles
\ E a c h 6,000 miles
Change each 2,000 miles
or 60 days
Change each 6,000 miles
or 60 days
Several Drops
One Drop
One Drop
2 c.c.
As required
1 H pts. 1 pt.
0,6 ltrs.
Engine Oil
Engine Oil
Engine Oil
Cam Lubricant
Cam Lubricant
Engine Oil
Same as engine
Same as engine
Same as engine
Above 90 °F.
use S A E 30 or 10W-30
4 qt. m
314 qt.
3,8 ltrs.
Engine Oil
4 qt. 11
3 34 qt.
3,8 ltrs.
Engine Oil
8
Between -f-10°F. and 90 F .
use S A E 20W or 10W-30
Not lower than 32°F. [0°C.|
use S A E 20W or S A E 10W-30
Between - 1 0 ° F . and + 1 0 ° F .
use S A E 10W or 10W-20
e
Between 3 2 F . [0°C.] and 0°F. l - 1 7 ° C l
use S A E 10W or S A E 10W-30
*4-Speed transmission and transfer case require separate lubrication of each unit.
t t t F o r Powr-Lok and Trac-Lok differential use only 'Jeep* Differential Oil, Part No. 94557.
SI When filter is changed at the same time, add one quart.
® Do not mix lithium and sodium base lubricants.
8
Use lithium base lubricant as specified
SAE-80
S A E 80
SAE-80
S A E 80
Light
SAE-40
or 50
SAE-20
Below - 1 0 ° F .
use S A E 5W or 5W-20
Below 0°F. [-17°C.J
use S A E 5W or S A E 5W-20
?
*Jeep U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
FIG. B-2—LUBRICATION CHART — 2-WHEEL DRIVE
CHART
NO
I T E M TO B E
LUBRICATED
FREQUENCY
1000 miles = 1.600 km.
Front Wheel Bearings®
Transmission
Differential
Hand Brake Control
Handle Cable
Hand Brake Control
Cable Rear
Generator — F4
Speedometer C a b l e . . . .
Distributor — F4
Oiler
Wick
Pivot
Cam
Distributor Cam — V 6 .
Air Cleaner — F4
— V6. . . . .
Engine — F4
Engine — V6
®
BE St
LUBRICANT
QUANTITY
U.S.
Chassis B e a r i n g s . . . . .
Universal J o i n t s . . . . . .
Steering Gear Housing
Rear Wheel Bearings fx
VEHICLES
E a c h 2,000 miles
E a c h 2,000 miles
Check each 2,000 miles
With Lube Fittings;
Sparingly each 2.000 miles
Without Lube Fittings:
Disassemble to Lubricate
each 12,000 miles
Disassemble to lubricate each
12,000 miles
Check each 2,000 miles
Change each 20,000 miles
Check each 2,000 miles
Change each 12,000 miles
TYPE
Imperial Metric
As
As
As
As
Summer I Winter
required
required
required
required
Chassis Lubricant
Chassis Lubricant
MIL-L-2105-B
Wheel Bearing Lubricant
As required
Wheel Bearing Lubricant
No. 2
No. 2
1 A pts. 114 pts. 0,7 ltrs.
GL4
SAE-90
SAE-80
MIL-L-2105-B*
SAE-80
SAE-80
Medium
X
2 pts.
1 % pts. 0,9 ltrs.
No. 1
No. 1
SAE-80
No. 2
No. 1
No. 1
SAE-80
No. 2
E a c h 12,000 miles
As required
Graphite Grease
Medium
E a c h 12,000 miles
E a c h 2,000 miles
Disassemble to lubricate each
12,000 miles
As required
2 to 4 Drops
A s required
Graphite Grease
Engine Oil
Graphite Grease
Medium
Medium
Same as engine
Light
Several Drops
One Drop
One Drop
2 c.c.
As required
1 M pts. 1 pt.
0,6 ltrs.
4 qt.** 3 H qts. 3,8 ltrs.
4 qt.** 3 }A qts. 3,8 ltrs.
Engine Oil
Engine Oil
Engine Oil
Cam Lubricant
Cam Lubricant
Engine Oil
Engine Oil
Engine Oil
Same as engine
Same as engine
Same as engine
E a c h 2,000 miles
E a c h 2,000 miles
E a c h 2,000 miles
E a c h 2,000 miles
A t each breaker point replacement
E a c h 2,000 miles
Each 6,000 miles
Change each 2,000 miles or 60 days
Change each 6.000 miles or 60 days
Above 90°F.
use S A E 30 or 10W-30
Between - f 10°F. and 90°F.
use S A E 20W or 10W-30
8
Between - 1 0 ° F . and - f l 0 ° F .
use S A E 10W or 10W-20
SAE-40
or 50
Below - 1 0 ° F .
use S A E 5W or 5W-20
Not lower than 32°F. [ 0 C ]
Between 32°F. 10°C] and 0°F. l - 1 7 ° C I
Below 0°F. [ - 1 7 ° C ]
use S A E 20W or S A E 10W-30
use S A E 10W or S A E 10W-30
use S A E 5W or S A E 5W-20
•For Powr-Lok and Trac-Lok differential use only 'Jeep' Differential Oil, Part No. 94557.
**When oil filter is changed at the same time, add one quart {one ltr.].
(x)Do not mix lithium and sodium base lubricants. Use lithium base lubricants as specified.
9
B
LUBRICATION
B-2. Special Lubricants
Special lubricants are required for certain lubrication points on the 'Jeep' Universal vehicles. The
special lubricants are necessary for proper functioning and maintenance of the vehicle. The Lubrication Chart (Fig. B - l and B-2) designates the special lubricating points and identifies them by type
or part number.
B-3. Applying Fresh Lubricant
When servicing or lubricating the vehicle, it is
important that all old lubricant and dirt be removed from the fitting and/or plugs before servicing and that the recommended type of lubricant
be used for the particular item being serviced.
Force lubricant through the lube fittings until
the lubricant being forced out of the joint is fresh
lubricant, indicating that all old lubricant has
been removed.
B-4. Engine Lubrication System —
Hurricane F4 Engine
• Refer to Fig. B-3.
The engine oil pressure system is designed to provide adequate lubrication to all working parts of
the engine. The gear-type oil pump is driven from
the engine camshaft. The pump is provided with a
FIG. B-3—ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM —
HURRICANE F4 E N G I N E
floating, screened intake that prevents the circulation of any sediment that might accumulate in the
oil pan. B y means of this pump, the main bearing
journals and crankpins are efficiently lubricated
10
through an oil gallery and passages in the cylinder
block. Oil is forced under pressure to the main bearings and through the cheeks of the crankshaft to
the connecting rod bearings. Oil is also force-fed
to the camshaft bearings, timing gears, and intake
valve rocker arms. The oil pressure is controlled by
relief valve located in the oil pump. The valve is
designed to open when excessive pressure develops
in the system, relieving the pressure and returning
the excess oil to the oil pan. The cylinder walls,
piston pins, and tappets are supplied with oil from
spurt holes in the connecting rods. A portion of
the oil is continually passed through an oil filter
which effectively removes any foreign matter suspended in the oil. A flanged section on the rear of
the crankshaft acts as an oil slinger and, in combination with the rear main bearing upper and
lower oil seal, prevents the leakage of oil from the
rear end of the cylinder block. Leakage of oil from
the front end of the cylinder block is controlled
by the crankshaft oil slinger and the front oil seal
installed in the timing gear cover. The oil pressure
indicator light in the instrument panel and the oil
level gauge or dip stick in the side of the engine
provide a means for checking the oil pressure and
oil level.
B-5. Oil Pressure Gauge or Indicator
On early CJ-3B vehicles an oil pressure gauge is
mounted on the instrument panel. This gauge indicates the oil pressure within the engine lubricating system.
On Models CJ-5, CJ-5A, CJ-6, CJ-6A, DJ-5, DJ-6
and later production vehicles of Model CJ-3B a
red telltale lamp, which operates when the ignition
switch is turned on, is lit when there is insufficient
oil pressure to properly lubricate the engine. When
it goes out, operating pressure is achieved. In
normal operation, the light is lit when the ignition
is first turned on. It goes out after the vehicle is
in motion.
Failure of the gauge or indicator to register normal
oil pressure may indicate insufficient supply of oil
in the engine crankcase, low or no oil pump pressure, or a fault in the gauge or indicator electrical
circuit. The engine must be stopped immediately
to prevent possible damage to engine bearings and
the fault corrected before restarting the engine.
B-6. Engine Lubrication System —
Dauntless V-6 Engine
The engine lubrication system (Fig. B-4) is the
force feed type in which oil is supplied under pressure to the crankshaft, connecting rods, camshaft
bearings and valve lifters. Oil is supplied under controlled volume to the rocker arm bearings and push
rods. All other moving parts are lubricated by
gravity flow or splash.
The supply of oil is carried in the oil pan which
is filled through a filter opening in the right rocker
arm cover. A removable oil gauge rod on the left
side of the crankcase is provided to check oil level.
The oil pump is located in the timing chain cover
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
13330
FIG. B-4—ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM —
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
1— Rocker Arm Shaft
2 —Main Oil Line
3 —Oil Inlet
where it is connected by a drilled passage in the
cylinder crankcase to an oil screen housing and
pipe assembly. The screen is submerged in the oil
supply and has ample area for all operating conditions. If the screen should become clogged for any
reason, oil may be drawn into the system over the
top edge of the screen, which is held clear of the
sheet metal screen housing.
Oil is drawn into the pump through the screen and
pipe assembly and a drilled passage in the crankcase, which connects to drilled passages in the
timing chain cover. All oil is discharged from the
pump to the oil pump cover assembly. The cover
assembly consists of an oil pressure relief valve,
an oil filter bypass valve and a nipple for installation of an oil filter. The spring loaded oil pressure
relief valve limits the oil pressure to a maximum
of 30 pounds [13.607 kg.] per square inch. The
oil filter bypass valve opens when the filter has
become clogged to the extent that 4V2 to 5 pounds
[2.04 a 2.27 kg.] pressure difference exists between
the filter inlet and exhaust to bypass the oil filter
and channel unfiltered oil directly to the main oil
galleries of the engine.
A full flow oil filter is externally mounted to the
oil filter cover nipple on the right side of the engine, just below the alternator. Normally, all engine
oil passes through the filter element; however, if
the element becomes restricted, a spring loaded
bypass valve opens as mentioned above. The main
oil galleries run the full length of the crankcase
and cut into the valve lifter guide holes to supply
oil at full pressure to the lifters. Connecting pas-
sages drilled in the crankcase permit delivery of
oil at full pressure to all crankshaft and camshaft
bearings.
Holes drilled in the crankshaft carry oil from the
crankshaft bearings to the connecting rod bearings.
Pistons and cylinder walls are lubricated by oil
forced through a small notch in the bearing parting
surface on the connecting rod, which registers with
the hole in the crankpin once in every revolution.
Piston pins are lubricated by splash.
Drilled holes in the camshaft connect the front
camshaft bearing journal to the keyslot in the front
of the camshaft. Oil flows from the journal into
the keyslot over the woodruff key in the space
between the key and the camshaft sprocket and
fuel pump eccentric.
The forward end of the fuel pump eccentric incorporates a relief which allows the oil to escape
between the fuel pump eccentric and the camshaft
distributor gear. The oil stream strikes the distributor shaft gear once each camshaft revolution, and
provides ample lubrication of the timing chain and
sprockets by splash.
The rocker arms and valves on each cylinder head
are supplied with oil from the oil galleries through
holes drilled in the front of the cylinder block and
cylinder head. The hole drilled in the cylinder
head ends beneath the front rocker arm shaft bracket. A notch cast in the base of the rocker arm shaft
bracket allows the oil to flow up inside the bracket
in the space between the bracket and bolt, to the
hollow rocker arm shaft which is plugged at both
ends. Each rocker arm receives oil through a hole
in the underside of the shaft. Grooves in the rocker
arm provide lubrication of the bearing surface. Oil
is metered to the push rod seat and valve stem
through holes drilled in the rocker arm. Excess
oil drains off and returns to the oil pan through
passages in the cylinder head and block. Refer to
the Lubrication Chart for lubrication frequency and
lubrication type and grade.
B-7. Chassis Lubrication
Chassis and engine should be serviced at periodic
intervals. Most chassis lubricating points, whether
long-life or conventional, have standard lubrication
fittings. Refer to the Lubrication Specifications and
Service Maintenance Schedule for specific points
and lubricating time intervals. It is not necessary
to disassemble prepacked joints to lubricate them.
Merely add new lubricant, as described in Par.
B-3, to remove all old lubricant.
At the appropriate interval, clean each lubrication
fitting indicated on the Lubrication Chart and
Service Maintenance Schedule. Use a pressure gun
to lubricate. Be sure the grease channels are open
to provide complete lubrication of bearing surfaces.
In some cases it may be necessary to disassemble
to clear plugged channels.
When vehicles are driven primarily in abnormally
dusty or wet areas or when a vehicle is subject to
severe operating conditions, perform these services
more frequently. Under these conditions, no
definite interval can be recommended because of
the great variety of uses and conditions of use.
11
B
LUBRICATION
B-3. SERVICE MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
Perform the following operations at the mileage
shown. Two thousand miles equals 3,200 km.
S E R V I C E MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
V E H I C L E ^ n> M I L E A G E I N T H O U S A N D S
6
8
10 12 24 30
OPERATION
Check Wheel N u t T o r q u e *
Check F l u i d Level i n B a t t e r y
Check F l u i d Level i n B r a k e Master C y l i n d e r .
Service Cooling System
Service Tires
Lubricate D i s t r i b u t o r C a m Lubricator (F4-134)
Lubricate Steering L i n k a g e
Lubricate Propeller Shaft Universal Joints
Lubricate Propeller Shaft Slip Joints
;
Lubricate T i e Rod and D r a g L i n k S o c k e t s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Change Engine O i l and F i l t e r , and Service A i r Cleaner (F4 134 Engine)**
Change Engine O i l and F i l t e r , and Service A i r Cleaner (V6-225 E n g i n e ) * * . . . .
Check Brake Operation a n d Pedal Free P l a y
Check C l u t c h Pedal Free P l a y .
....
Check a l l V - B e l t Tensions
Check Exhaust Emission System ( I f so equipped)***
\
Service Positive Crankcase V e n t Valve and Breather
. .'
Road Test Including a Check o f a l l I n s t r u m e n t Lights and Controls
Tune-up Engine
Check Operation of M a n i f o l d Heat C o n t r o l Valve
Clean Exterior o f Radiator
A l i g n Headlights
•
Check B r a k e Linings
,
Check Exhaust System for Leaks
Replace Canister A i r Filter ( F . E . E . C. System)
Check Axle U - B o l t T o r q u e .
Check L u b r i c a u n t Level o f F r o n t Axle Universal Joints
Check Shock Absorber M o u n t i n g s and Bushings
Check F r o n t and Rear Spring Bushings
Lubricate D i s t r i b u t o r (V6-225).
Replace Spark, Plugs
Check Charging and S t a r t i n g Circuits
Lubricate Tailgate L a t c h , Supports and Hinges.
Lubricate D o o r and H o o d Hinge Pivots
;
Lubricate Glove Compartment Door L a t c h
Lubricate Heater Controls
•
Lubricate Windshield Wiper and Washer Controls
Clean, Repack and A d j u s t Wheel Bearings
Change Transmission and Transfer L u b r i c a n t . .
Replace D r y - T y p e A i r Cleaner
•
Check L u b r i c a n t Level o f Differential
Lubricate Transfer Case Shift LeArer Control C « s e . .
,. ... . ...
0
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Continuing each 2,000 miles
Continuing each 6,000 miles
X
X
X
X
X
X
Continuing each 24,000 miles
X
Continuing each 30,000 miles
•Check after the first 200 miles [320 k m . J of operation.
I f wheel or wheels are changed for any reason, have wheel n u t torque rechecked after an additional t w o hundred miles o f operation
••Service mileage shown or every 60 days, whichever occurs first.
•••Maintenance check on emission system must be performed per i n f o r m a t i o n i n this manual.
"See t e x t for brakes.
"Nj ^ M i l e s
2,000
6,000
12,000
18,000
24,000
30,000
Kilometers
3,200
9,600
19,200
28,800
38,400
48,000
B-9. Engine Oil
For maximum engine protection under all driving
conditions encountered during the recommended
oil change intervals, it is necessary to use only
"MS" certified sequence-tested oils. The term
"MS" must appear on the oil container singly or
in conjunction with other designations. "MS" designated oils are heavy-duty detergent oils that are
formulated to withstand all service conditions in
modern powerplants. Engine oils designated only
as "ML" and/or "MM" are not recommended and
should not be used except in an emergency when
"MS" oil is not available. Certified sequence-tested
engine oils are described on their containers by
such phrases as: meets, exceeds, excels, or has
proven superior in the test requirements, test
sequences, M S Service tests, standards, and service
requirements, of automotive manufacturers, automakers, or car manufacturers for M S service or
Service MS.
12
It may be necessary to change engine oil more
frequently than normally recommended, depending
upon the type and quality of oil used, the severity
of operation conditions, if the engine is used for
short periods in cold weather, or if the engine is
allowed to idle for excessive periods.
Always drain the crankcase while the engine is
hot since dirt and contaminants are then more
likely to be held in suspension and therefore will
drain out more completely. Drain the crankcase
as follows:
a. Position the drain receptacle under the drain
plug.
b. Remove the drain plug using the correct size
wrench. Be careful of hot oil.
c. Carefully clean the drain plug. Inspect and
replace the gasket, if deteriorated.
d. When the oil has drained, replace and tighten
the crankcase drain plug.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
e. Check for the presence of excess water in the
oil that might indicate an internal leak from the
cooling system.
f. Pour oil into the oil filler tube. Replace the oil
filler cap.
B-10. Engine Oil Filter Service —
Hurricane F4 Engine
The engine oil filter assembly should be replaced
at each 2000 miles [3.200 km.] of normal engine
use. To remove the filter, use oil filter wrench
C-4065. To install a new filter, wipe the gasket —
contact surface with engine oil, screw on the unit
until gasket contacts the sealing surface, and then
tighten at least one half turn more. D O N O T U S E
T O O L S . Turn by hand only. When refilling the
engine crankcase after filter has been changed be
sure to add one extra quart [1 ltr.] of oil to fill
filter and oil passages. Run engine to make sure
there is no leak at oil filter.
B-l 1. Engine Oil Filter Service —
Dauntless V-6 Engine
To replace the oil filter, use oil filter wrench, Tool
C-4065, to remove the filter. After the filter has
been removed from the oil pump housing located
on the right front side of the engine, wipe the
housing surface clean and oil the gasket on the
base of the new filter to make a good seal. Screw
the new filter in position until its gasket contacts
the pump housing surface, then tighten at least
one-half turn until filter fits snug.
Note: Tighten by hand only, do not use a tool to
tighten.
Replace oil filter each 6000 miles [9.600 km.] at
engine oil change.
B-12. Exhaust Manifold Heat Control Valve —
Dauntless V-6 Engine
A thermally-actuated heat control valve is located
at rear of the right exhaust manifold of the Dauntless V-6 engine. This valve has a bimetal thermostatic spring which holds the valve closed when
the engine is cold.
Each time the vehicle is lubricated place a few
drops of penetrating oil on the valve shaft bushings
and then work the valve by hand making sure that
the lubricant is worked into the bushings.
Note: If the valve shaft does not operate freely
penetrating oil should be used to free the shaft.
B-l 3. Positive Crankcase Ventilation System
Service the ventilation system of the engine each
multiple of 6000 miles [9.600 km.] on the odometer
after initial 2000 miles [3.200 km.] service. Replace the ventilation valve each 12,000 miles
[19.200 km.].
For information on servicing the positive crankcase
ventilation system on the Hurricane F 4 engine and
the Dauntless V-6 engine, refer to the Tune-up
Section.
B-l4. Distributor — Hurricane F4 Engine
The distributor shaft is lubricated through an oiler
mounted on the side of the housing. Place three or
B
four drops of light engine oil in the oiler each 2,000
miles [3.200 km.]. Also place one drop of light
engine oil on the wick located on the top of the
shaft, which is made accessible by removing the
rotor arm. Sparingly apply cam lubricant to the
breaker arm cam and place a drop of oil on the
breaker arm pivot.
B-l 5. Distributor — Dauntless V-6 Engine
The distributor has a lubricant reservoir that carries sufficient lubricant for the life of the distributor.
When servicing breaker points, place one drop of
light engine oil on the wick located on the top
of the shaft Also, apply cam lubricant sparingly to
the breaker arm cam, and place a drop of oil on the
breaker arm pivot.
B-l6. Generator
On early production vehicles oilers are provided
at each end of the generator, for lubrication purpose. On late production vehicles one oiler is provided at the rear (bushing end) of the generator
for lubrication purpose. Place two to four drops of
light engine oil in each oiler every 2,000 miles
[3.200 km.].
B-l 7. Spark Plugs
Replace spark plugs. Refer to Section C.
B-18. Starting Circuit
Check the starting circuit. Refer to Section H .
B-l 9. Charging Circuit
Check the charging circuit. Refer to Section H .
B-20. Engine Tune-Up
Refer to Section C of this manual.
B-21. Adjust Fan Belt
Refer to Section C.
B-22. Exhaust Emission Control System or
Controlled Combustion System
• Refer to the appropriate section in this manual.
B-23. Exhaust System
Check the exhaust system for leaks. Refer to
Section F .
B-24. Fuel Evaporative Emission Control
Canister Air Filter
The only service required for the F . E . E . C . system
is cleaning the air cleaner filter mounted at the
bottom of the canister. The filter requires replacement at 12,000 mile intervals. Refer to Section
E , Par. E-9 for service procedure.
B-25. Oil Bath Air Cleaner
Some 'Jeep' Universal vehicles are equipped with
an oil bath type air cleaner. This type air cleaner
thoroughly removes all dust from the air before it
enters the carburetor, if it is properly serviced.
When the vehicle is operated under normal conditions the air cleaner must be serviced at regular
intervals as care of the air cleaner is extremely
13
LUBRICATION
vital to the life of the engine. When the vehicle
is operated under abnormal conditions, (for example when driven on secondary roads or through
fields) then service of the air cleaner must be
more frequent
Note: Under extreme continually dusty and dirty
conditions where the vehicle operates in clouds of
dust and dirt, service the air cleaner daily.
a. To service the air cleaner on vehicles equipped
with the Hurricane F 4 engine (Fig. B-5) unscrew
the eye bolt on the oil cup clamp and remove the
oil cup from the cleaner body. Remove the oil
from the cup and scrape all dirt from the inside,
wash cup clean using a cleaning solution if necessary. In summer refill the oil cup with IV2 pints
[0,6 ltrs.] of SAE-40 or 50 grade engine oil. In
winter refill using grade SAE-20 engine oil. For
servicing the air cleaner body (less oil cup), loosen
hose clamp and remove hose from the cleaner.
Detach breather hose from the fitting on the
cleaner. Remove the two wing screws and lift the
cleaner from the vehicle. Agitate the cleaner body
thoroughly in cleaning solution to clean the filtering
element. Dry element with low pressure compressed air. Reinstall the cleaner body and replace
the oil cup. Service the air cleaner every 2000 miles
[3.200 km.].
b. T o service the oil bath air cleaner on vehicle
equipped with the Dauntless V-6 engine (Fig. B-6),
first remove the air cleaner from the carburetor
by unscrewing the wing nut. Remove the oil cup
FIG.
B-6—OIL B A T H AIR C L E A N E R D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
1 — W i n Nut
2 — Cover
3 — Rubber Gasket
4— Cork Gasket
5— Oil Cup
B
6— Breather
7— Clamp
8— Vent Tube
9— Air Pump Hose
from cleaner body and remove the oil from the cup,
scrape all dirt from the inside. Clean oil cup thoroughly, wash filter element in a solvent that will
leave it clean and dry. Fill oil cup to indicated
level with clean S.A.E. 40 or 50 grade engine oil
(S.A.E. 20 grade in winter.) Assemble cleaner filter
element to oil cup making sure that gasket is in
place between the two pieces. Assemble air cleaner
assembly to carburetor making sure the gasket between air cleaner and carburetor is in place. Secure
air cleaner to carburetor with wing nut. Service the
air cleaner every 6000 miles [9.600 km.],
c. Carefully check the hose clamps and fittings on
the breather hoses at frequent intervals. Loose connections will affect proper operation of the crankcase ventilating system.
FIG.
B-5—OIL B A T H A I R C L E A N E R
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
1— Horn
2 —Flexible Connector
3— H o n Clamp
A—Carburetor Vent Tube
5— Body
6— Screw and Lock Washer
14
7—Clamp
8 — O i l Cup
9—Clamp
10—Hose
11—Clamp
13—Gasket
-
B-26. Dry-Type Air Cleaner
Service the air cleaner on Dauntless V-6 engines
at each oil change under normal driving conditions.
If the vehicle is operated under dusty conditions,
check the condition of the air cleaner element more
frequently and service if dirty.
Servicing the air cleaner consists of cleaning or
replacing the air cleaner element and replacing the
crankcase ventilation filter (breather assembly).
See Fig. B-7.
The air cleaner element assembly consists of a
paper element and a polyurethane element The
paper element cannot be cleaned.
To clean the polyurethane element, first carefullly
remove it from the paper element Then wash it in
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
solvent. Wrap the polyurethane element in a clean
dry cloth and squeeze to remove all possible solvent. Do not wring the element or it may become
torn. After cleaning, oil the polyurethane element
liberally with engine oil ( S A E 10W30) and squeeze
to evenly distribute the oil through the element and
to remove excess oil. The element should be damp
with oil, not dripping. Install the polyurethane
element on the paper element, taking care to have
edges of the polyurethane element over the plastic
end plates of the paper element.
Replace the complete air cleaner element assembly
every 24,000 miles [38.400 km.]. Replace more
frequently if there is any apparent damage or
evidence of plugging.
The crankcase ventilation filter should be replaced,
not cleaned, every 6,000 miles [9.600 km.]. The
filter is located inside the air cleaner housing.
B-31.
B
General
All transfer cases and transmissions should be
serviced separately even though drilled passages
are provided for oil circulation between some transmission and the transfer case housings. Procedure
from the appropriate Par. below should be followed to check the lubricant level of the various
types of transfer cases and transmissions.
If the transfer case or transmission fluid levels
are found to be abnormally low, check both units
for any possible leaks.
B-32. Transfer Case
:
The transfer case fill-hole is located on the right
side of the transfer case housing. To check the
lubricant level, remove the fill plug. Lubricant
should be level with this fill-hole. If not, bring
up to level by adding make-up lubricant as specified
in the Lubrication Specifications.
B-33. Transmission
The transmission fill-hole is located on the right
side of the transmission housing. To check the
lubricant level, remove the fill plug. Lubricant
should be level with this fill-hole. If not, bring
up to level by adding make-up lubricant as specified
in the Lubrication Specifications.
B-34. Transmission and Transfer Case
Lubricant Change
• Refer to Par. B-35 through B-37 as applicable.
12992
FIG. B-7—DRY-TYPE AIR CLEANER
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
1— Crankcase Ventilation Filter
2— Polyurethane Element
3 — Paper Element
B-27. Steering Gear
Check that the steering gear lubricant is at the
level of the fill-hole. If not, add lubricant to the
level of the fill-hole with the lubricant recommended in the Lubrication Specifications. If abnormally low, check the steering gear for possibility
of leaks.
B-28. Cooling System
Check the coolant level in the radiator. It should be
half an inch below the neck. If not, fill the radiator
to half inch below the neck with the proper coolant.
Refer to Section G.
If the level of the coolant is abnormally low, check
the radiator, hoses and water pump for possible
leaks. If a leak is suspected, refer to Section G.
B-29. Clean Exterior of Radiator
For proper cooling efficiency the radiator should
be cleaned of foreign objects. Refer to Section G.
B-30. Transmission and Transfer Case
•
Lubricant Level Cheek
Refer to Par. B-31 through B-33 as applicable.
B-35. General
Transfer case and transmission lubricants should
be changed at the same time.
B-36. Transfer Case
To drain the transfer case, first remove the transfer
case fill-hole plug and then the transfer case drainhole plug. Let all fluid drain from case. Then install
the transfer case drainhole plug, and refill the
transfer case through the fill-hole using the correct
lubricant as specified in the Lubrication Specifications.
At 30,000 mile [48,000 km.] intervals lube the
transfer case shift levers with Lubriplate No.
130AA. Late models have a lube fitting. To lube
older models, (without lube fitting) remove the
bottom cover of the case, clean thoroughly and
pack case full of lubricant.
B-37. Transmission (3-Speed)
To change the lubricant on all vehicles equipped
with a three speed synchromesh transmission, drain
the old fluid by first removing the fill-hole plug
and then removing the drainhole plug. Since on
some transmissions there are drilled passages between the transmission and transfer case that allow
oil to circulate between the two units, the transfer
case should be drained before refilling the transmission.
When all the fluid is completely drained, replace
the drainhole plugs only. For the correct specifications and quantity, refer to the Lubrication
Specifications.
15
B
LUBRICATION
Note: Hard shifting of the transmission gear in
cold weather is a positive indication that the lubricant is of the wrong viscosity or of poor quality
which allows it to congeal.
B-38.
Optional 4-Speed Transmission
and Transfer Case
The four-speed transmission and transfer case require separate lubrication for each unit as they
have no cross-over oil passage. At each transmission
service check, the fill plugs of both four-speed
transmission and transfer case should be pulled
and the lubricant refilled to level if necessary.
B-39. Transfer Case Linkage
The transfer case shift linkage should be lubricated
periodically. All bearing surfaces that are assembled
with studs and cotter pins should be disassembled,
cleaned, and coated with a good waterproof grease.
The bearing surfaces that cannot be disassembled
should be lubricated with a lubricant that will
penetrate the bearing area. These bearings include
the two on the cross shaft assembly and the
threaded stud.
The type of penetrating lubricant recommended is
DuPont "PM 7", No. 2911, or its equivalent.
shackle bolts. Check the alignment of these bolts,
and check that nuts are tightened securely.
B-47. Spring Shackles
Rubber bushings are provided on the spring
shackles. These rubber bushings have no lubrication
fitting and it is very important that they never
be lubricated.
B-48. Shock Absorbers
Visually check for broken mounts or bolts, worn
or missing bushings on the shock absorbers. Refer
to Section S.
B-49. Front and Rear Axle U-Bolts
Torque the front and rear axle U-bolts. Refer to
Section S.
B-50. Front and Rear Axle Differentials —
Lubricant Levels
The lubricant level of all front and rear differentials
should be at the level of the fill-hole.
B-51. Front and Rear Axle Differentials —
Changing Lubricant
B-40. Brake Master Cylinder
Clean the top of the fill cap and also the housing
area around it. Remove the cap and observe the
fluid level. It should be half an inch below the top
of the fill-hole. If not, add brake fluid to half
inch [1,3 cm.] below the top of the fill-hole. Use
only heavy-duty brake fluid conforming to specification SAE-J-1703. Be sure to handle the brake
fluid in clean dispensers and containers that will
not introduce even the slightest amount of other
liquids or foreign particles. Replace and tighten
the fill cap.
B-52. Conventional Differentials
To remove the lubricant from the front or rear
differential, it is necessary to remove the housing
cover. Let the lubricant drain out, and then flush
the differential with a flushing oil or light engine
oil to clean out the housing (except Powr-Lok
or Trac-Lok Differentials). Do not use water, steam,
kerosene, or gasoline for flushing.
Reinstall the housing cover, replacing the gasket
whenever necessary, torquing the cover bolts to
15 to 25 lb-ft. [2,1 a 3,4 kg-m.].
Remove the filler plug, and refill the differential
housing as specified in the Lubrication Specifications.
B-41.
B-53.
Adjust Brakes
Refer to Section P.
B-42. Brake Linings
Refer to Section P.
B-43.
Adjust Clutch
Refer to Section I .
B-44.
Clutch Cross Shaft (Lever Type)
Lubricate the clutch cross shaft in accordance with
specifications given in the Lubrication chart: see
Item 1. Chassis Bearings.
B-45. Tie Rod and Drag Link Sockets
The tie rod and drag link sockets are equipped
with lubrication fittings and should be lubricated
per specifications given in the Lubrication chart:
see Item 1. Chassis Bearings.
B-46. Front and Rear Spring Bushings
The condition of the spring bushings is indicated
by the alignment of the spring pivot and spring
16
Powr-Lok or Trac-Lok Differential
Some vehicles may be equipped with the Powr-Lok
or Trac-Lok Differential as optional equipment.
Special lubricant and ordinary multipurpose gear
lubricants must not be used. Use only 'Jeep* Differential Oil, Part No. 94557.
Powr-Lok or Trac-Lok differentials may be cleaned
only by disassembling the unit and wiping with
clean rags. Do not flush the unit. Refer to Section N.
B-54.
Front Axle Universal Joint — Lube
Check the level of the front axle universal joint
lubricant at each front wheel by removing the
fill-hole plug. The lubricant should be level with
the fill-hole. If required, add lubricant as specified
in Lubrication Specifications.
B-55. Front Axle Universal Joint — Service
On all 4-wheel drive vehicles the front axle universal joint should be serviced by removing the
shaft and thoroughly cleaning the universal joints
and housing. For the correct procedures, refer to
Section M .
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L
SERIES SERVICE MANUAL
Reinstall the axle shafts, and refill the housings to
plug level using the universal joint lubricant
specified in Lubrication Specifications.
B-56. Front Axle Wheel Bearings
To lubricate the wheel bearings, it is necessary
to remove, clean, repack, and adjust them. When
front wheel hubs and bearings are removed for
lubrication, they should be thoroughly washed in a
suitable cleaning solvent. The bearings should be
carefully dried and then given a thorough cleaning
and inspection. Use a clean brush to remove all
particles of old lubricant from bearings and hubs.
After the bearings are cleaned, inspect them for
pitted races and rollers. Also, check the hub oil
seals.
Note: Wheel bearing lithium base lubricants are
used at the factory for initial fill of these bearings.
When lithium base and sodium base lubricants are
mixed, the result is a thinned-out mixture that
can bleed through seals. It is therefore important
that lubricants with the correct base be used when
lubricating the wheel bearings.
Should leaks occur at wheel bearing seals, the leaks
may be caused by a mixture of two types of lubricants. In such cases, the old lubricant should be
completely removed before new lubricant is added.
Wheel bearings should be thoroughly cleaned,
lubricated with lithium base and reinstalled.
Repack the bearing cones and rollers with grease
and reassemble hub in the reverse order of the
disassembly. Test the bearing adjustment as outlined in Section Q.
B-57. Rear Axle Wheel Bearings
The Rear wheel bearings an early models equipped
with lubrication fittings with a vent opening
through the housings above each fitting should be
lubricated sparingly, each 2,000 miles [3.200 km.].
Use a hand compressor and wheel bearing grease,
forcing the grease through each lubrication fitting
until it flows from the vent. Vent should be kept
clear of obstruction or grease will back up into the
brakes. Do not add grease after it flows from the
vent for it may be forced through the wheel keyway onto the outside of the wheel and possibly
onto the brake linings. Rear wheel bearings that do
not have lubrication fittings should be removed
each 12,000 miles [19.200 km.] and the bearing
cleaned, inspected and repacked. Refer to procedure in Par. B-56.
B-59. Lights and Controls
a. Check all interior and exterior lights and light
switches for proper operation, including: parking
lights, headlamps (high beam and low beam),
tail lights, brake lights, directional lights, and instrument panel lights.
b. Check all instrument panel controls and instruments for proper operation.
B-60.
Speedometer Cable
Remove the speedometer cable from its housing
every 12,000 miles [19.300 km.]. Clean it thoroughly and coat it with a good quality light graphite
grease.
B-61.
Headlights
Refer to Section H .
B-62.
Heater Controls
Apply Lubriplate 130-A to all friction points and
pivot points on the heater controls panel unit
as well as the pivot points at the dashpot. Apply
a few drops of penetrating oil all along the Bowden
cable. This oil will penetrate into the center wire.
B-63. Windshield Wiper and Washer Controls
Lubricate the friction points and the pivot points
on the windshield wiper transmission and linkage
arms with a slight amount of Lubriplate 130-A.
B-64.
Rotate Tires
Refer to Section Q for the correct method of rotating the tires.
B-65.
•
Body Lube Points
Refer to Par. B-66 through B-68.
B-66.
Hood Hinge Pivot Points
Lubricate the frictional points of the hood hinge
pivot points with a few drops of light-weight engine
oil.
B-67.
Glove Compartment Door Latch
Sparingly wipe Lubriplate 130-A on the glove compartment door latch.
B-68.
Tailgate Hinges
Lubricate the friction points of the tailgate hinges
with a few drops of light-weight engine oil.
B-69.
LUBRICATION OF OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT
Note: When servicing the Flanged Axle Unit Bearing Assembly, refer to Section N, Par. N-5 for
proper lubrication procedures.
B-70.
Pintle Hook
B-58.
B-7!.
Propeller Shafts and Universal Joints
The propeller shaft slip joints and universals should
be lubricated with a hand compressor grease gun
so as to not damage the bearing seals. The units
should be lubricated with a good quality grease.
Refer to the Lubrication Chart for lubrication frequency and lubricant type and grade.
B
When lubricating the vehicle, place a few drops
of oil on the pintle hook and safety latch pivot pins.
Centrifugal Governor
Check the oil level in the governor housing at each
vehicle lubrication. Use the same seasonal grade
oil as is used in the engine and change oil at each
engine oil change. Do not fill the housing above
the level indicating plug opening. Keep the vent
in the filler plug open at all times.
17
B
LUBRICATION
B-72. Powr-Lok or Trac-Lok Differential
Refer to Par. B-53.
B-73. PARTS REQUIRING NO LUBRICATION
B-74. Water Pump Bearing, Clutch Release
Bearing
The water pump and clutch release bearings are
prelubricated for life when manufactured and
cannot be relubricated.
B-7S. Starter Motor Bearings
The starting motor bearings are lubricated at
assembly to last between normal rebuild periods.
B-76. Alternator Bearings
The alternator bearings are lubricated at assembly
and require no further lubrication.
B-77. Springs
The vehicle springs should not be lubricated. At
assembly the leaves are coated with a long-lasting
special lubricant which is designed to last the life
of the springs. Spraying with the usual mixture of
oil and kerosene has a tendency to wash this lubricant from between the leaves, making it necessary
to relubricate often to eliminate squeaking.
B-78. Shock Absorbers
Hydraulic direct-action shock absorbers are permanently sealed and require no periodic lubrication service. Shock absorber mounting bushings
are not to be lubricated.
B-79. LUBRICATION REQUIREMENTS
FOR OFF-HIGHWAY OPERATION
Adequate lubrication becomes increasingly important when vehicles are used in off-highway
operation. Under these conditions all operating
parts of both the engine and chassis are subjected
to unusual pressures. At the same time such
operation is usually under abnormal dust and dirt
conditions making additional precautions necessary. The importance of correct lubrication for
the conditions of operation cannot be overestimated.
B-80.
Engine Oil
It is important, that the oil in a new or rebuilt
engine be changed after the first eight or ten hours
of operation, and for heavy, dusty work, every 50
hours thereafter. Watch the condition of the oil
closely and change it immediately if it appears to
be contaminated.
i - I l . Engine Oil Filter
Replace the oil filter at the end of the first 100
hours of service. Under extreme operating conditions, more frequent replacement may be required. The condition of the oil is a reliable
indicator of the condition of the filter element.
18
If the oil becomes discolored and shows evidence
of contamination, change the filter without delay.
(Refer to Par. B-10, B - l l for the correct procedure
for replacing the oil filter.)
B-82. Air Cleaner
Care of the air cleaner is extremely vital to the
life of the engine. Pay particular attention to the
amount of dust and dirt in the air taken into the
engine through the air cleaner. When dust is not
noticeable in the air, service the air cleaner each
scheduled maintenance period. Whenever the air is
noticeably dusty (for example when the vehicle is
driven on secondary roads or through fields) then
service the air cleaner more frequently. Under
extreme continually dusty and dirty conditions
where the vehicle operates in clouds of dust and
dirt, service the air cleaner daily. (Refer to Par.
B-24 thru B-26 for service procedures.)
B-83. Chassis Lubrication
The period of lubrication depends entirely upon
the type of work being done. Using the specified
interval given in the Service Maintenance Schedule
as a guide, lubricate at safe intervals required for
the particular type of operation. Under extremely
dusty conditions lubricate these points daily. Be
sure to force enough lubricant into each fitting
to force out the old lubricant which might be contaminated with grit and which would cause rapid
wear if allowed to remain.
Do not place lubricant on the various ball and
socket joints or pivot points of the lift linkage
as dirt will accumulate to form an abrasive mixture. It is best to simply wipe these parts clean
with a cloth.
B-84. Front Axle Shaft Universal Joints
For off-highway use remove the universal joints
twice yearly, thoroughly clean both the housings
and joints with a suitable solvent, and refill the
housings to the fill plug opening levels with the
correct lubricant as given in the Lubrication
Specifications.
B-85. Transmission and Transfer Case
The combined capacity of the two housings is
small for economy, making it important that the
lubricant be changed at regular intervals. For
off-highway use drain both housings every 300
hours of operation and refill to the fill plug opening
levels. Refer to B-35 through B-37 when changing
lubricant.
B-86. Front and Rear Axle Differentials
Because of the higher pressure developed in the
axle assemblies with heavy duty operation, drain,
flush, and refill the differential assemblies each
300 hours of operation. Use only flushing oil or
light engine oil to clean out the housings (except
Powr-Lok and Trac-Lok differentials). Refer to
Par. B-52 and B-53 for draining and flushing
differential.
Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
c
TUNE-UP
Contents
SUBJECT
GENERAL
TUNE-UP
Air Cleaner
Battery .
Carburetor Adjustments
Coil
Crankcase Ventilation
Cylinder Compression
Cylinder Head(s)
Dash Pot Adjustments
Distributor Service
Distributor Resistance Test
Fan Belt
Fuel Lines and Screens
PAR.
C-l
.C-2
C-21
C-3
C-2 5
C-20
C-6
C-9
.C-5
.C-26
C-10 thru C-13
C-l6
C-2 7
C-2 2
C - l . GENERAL
An engine tune-up should be performed for all
Jeep Vehicles each 6000 miles [9.600 km.] or
at the end of each 250 hours off-the-road operation,
to ensure best possible performance at all times.
The tune-up should follow the sequence given in
this section.
Because of federal laws limiting exhaust emissions,
it is even more important that the engine tune-up
is done accurately, using the specifications listed
on the tune-up sticker found in each engine compartment.
Note; To ensure proper operation and effectiveness
of the exhaust emission control system, and to
comply with Federal and State requirements, a
recheck of ignition timing, idle speed and idle mixture and necessary adjustments must be performed
after the first 2,000 miles [3.200 km.] of vehicle
operation.
A minor engine tune-up should be performed every
6,000 miles [9.600 km.] or at the end of 250 hours
of off-the-road use. Major engine tune-up should
be performed every 12,000 miles [19.300 km.].
The parts of units which affect power and performance may be divided into three groups:
(1) Units affecting compression
(2) Units affecting ignition
(3) Units affecting carburetion
The tune-up procedure should cover these groups
in the order given. While the items affecting compression and ignition may be handled according
to personal preference, correction of items in the
carburetion group should not be attempted until
all items affecting compression and ignition have
been satisfactorily corrected.
Note: T o make sure hydro-carbon and carbon
monoxide emissions will be within limits, it is very
impotrant that the adjustments be followed exactly
as listed on the sticker found in each engine
compartment.
SUBJECT
PAR.
Fuel Pump
..
C-23
Heat Control Valve
C-7
Ignition Cables
C-19
Ignition Timing .
C-14
Ignition Wires
C-l8
Manifold
C-5
Manifold Vacuum
C-24
Point Dwell
C-17
Primary Circuit Tests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C-15
Spark Plugs
C-4
Tappets
C-8
ROAD T E S T
C-2 8
S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS . :
C-29
TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS..
C-30
Minor engine tune-up consists of the following.
Inspect and correct as required:
Battery cables and connections.
Alternator and regulator wiring.
Primary — Secondary wiring, distributor cap.
Cylinder head torque.
Contact point dwell.
Vacuum and centrifugal advance.
Ignition timing.
Spark plugs for correct air gap.
Adjust idle speed and idle air mixture.
Adjust all drive belt tensions.
Clean carburetor air cleaner.
Lubricate exhaust manifold damper.
Major engine tune-up includes the following.
Inspect and correct as required:
Battery condition and charging circuit. Clean,
lubricate and tighten battery cable connections.
Ingition system.
Spark plugs; replace if necessary or clean and
gap.
Compression check.
Primary—Secondary wiring, distributor cap.
Replace contact points and condenser.
Lubricate distributor cam with cam grease.
Adjust contact points.
Check vacuum and centrifugal advance.
Set ignition timing.
Torque cylinder head.
Adjust idle speed and idle air mixture.
Replace fuel filter element
(every 12,000 miles [19.300 km.]).
Adjust all drive belt tensions.
IMPORTANT: SPECIFICATIONS F O R E N GINE RPM. DISTRIBUTOR POINT D W E L L ,
AND I G N I T I O N T I M I N G G I V E N I N T U N E UP SECTION C R E F E R T O V E H I C L E S W I T H
AND W I T H O U T E X H A U S T E M I S S I O N CONT R O L SYSTEMS.
FOR VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH EXHAUST
EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS ALSO
R E F E R T O S E C T I O N F l (F4-134 E N G I N E )
AND F2 (V6-225 E N G I N E ) .
19
c
TUNE-UP
C-2. TUNE-UP SEQUENCE
The following Pars. C-3 through C-2 7 give the
sequence and describe the services to be performed
when tuning the engine.
C-3. Clean and Check Battery
Inspect battery and cables. If the battery is not
satisfactory, install a fully-charged battery to allow
completion of the tune-up.
Note: If the battery fails any of the following tests,
remember that the cause may be other electrical
trouble, and not necessarily only a defective battery.
Refer to Section H for electrical troubleshooting
and tests.
a. Check the specific gravity of the eletrolyte in
each cell of the battery. A hydrometer reading of
1.260 indicates that the battery is fully charged.
If the reading is 1.225 or below, the battery needs
recharging. If one or more cells is 25 "points" (.025)
or more lower than the other cells, this indicates
that the cell is shorted, the cell is about to fail, or
there is a crack in the battery partition in the case.
Unless the battery is repaired or replaced, battery
trouble will soon be experienced.
b. Check the electrolyte level in each cell, add
distilled water to maintain the solution %" [9.5
mm.] above the plates. Avoid overfilling. Replace
the filler caps and tighten securely. It is important
to keep the electrolyte level above the plates at
all times because plates that are exposed for any
length of time will be seriously damaged.
c. Check the wing nuts on the hold-down frame
for tightness. Tighten them only with finger pressure, never with pliers or a wrench. Excessive pressure could damage the battery case.
d. Clean the battery terminals and cable connec-
D A U N T L E S S V-6
tors. Prepare a strong solution of baking soda and
water and brush it around the terminals to remove
any corrosion that is present. The cell caps must
be tight and their vents sealed to prevent cleaning
solution entering the cells. After cleaning install
cable connectors on terminals and coat the terminals and connectors with heavy grease.
e. Inspect the battery cables and replace if badly
corroded or frayed. Check tightness of terminal
screws to ensure good electrical connections. Check
the tightness of the negative ground cable connection at the engine to ensure a good ground connection.
f. Load test the battery. Connect a voltmeter across
the battery. Run the starting motor for 15 seconds.
If the voltage does not drop below 10 volts on a
12 volt battery the battery is satisfactory. If the
voltage falls below these values, yet the specific
gravity is above 1.225, the condition of the battery
is questionable.
g. Make sure the engine to frame ground strap or
cable connections are tight. If these connections
are loose, corroded or dirty, hard starting or failure
of the vehicle electrical system may result. Refer
to Fig. C - l for location of the Hurricane F 4 engine
to frame ground strap and its connections. Refer
to Fig. C-2 for location of the Dauntless V-6 engine to frame ground cable.
C-4. Clean and Adjust Spark Plugs
Clean, inspect, and gap spark plugs. Do not install
spark plugs until completion of compression tests.
a. Use a Spark Cable and Installing Plier Tool,
W-2 74, to remove the leads from the spark plugs.
Caution: Pulling on the cables to remove them
from the spark plugs can cause internal breaks in
the leads that will cause ignition failure.
FIG. C-l—FRAME GROUND STRAP —
HURRICANE F4
1—Right Front Engine Mount
2 —Frame Ground Strap
20
b. Using a spark plug wrench, loosen each spark
plug one or two turns to break loose any carbon
deposits on the plug base.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
10102
FIG. C-4—HURRICANE F4 ENGINE CYLINDER
HEAD BOLT TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
FIG. C-3—SETTING SPARK PLUG GAP
1—Wire Gauge
2—Spark Plug
c. Blow out all carbon and dirt from each spark
plug hole with compressed air. If compressed air is
not available, start the engine and accelerate to
1000 rpm. to blow out the carbon and dirt. Stop
the engine.
d. Remove the plugs carefully with a spark plug
wrench.
e. Inspect the plugs for serviceability. Especially
check for burned and eroded electrodes, blistering
of porcelain at the firing tip, cracked porcelain, or
black deposits and fouling. These conditions indicate that the plugs have not been operating at
the correct temperature. Replace bad or worn plugs
in sets.
f. Measure the electrode gap of each new or existing plug with a wire gauge as shown in Fig. C-3.
Adjust each electrode gap to the specific gap by
bending the outer electrode mounted in the plug
shell.
g. Clean the plugs on a sand blast cleaner. Avoid
too much abrasive blast as it will erode the insulator. Clean the threads with a wire brush.
Deposits will retard heat flow to the cylinder head.
h. Clean the electrode surfaces with a small flat
file. Dress the electrodes to secure flat parallel
surfaces on both the center and side electrode.
i. Champion J-8 are the replacement spark plugs
recommended for the F4-134 engine. Adjust electrode gap to .030" [0,762 mm.] and should be
torqued to 25 to 33 lb-ft. [3,5 a 4,6 kg-m.].
j. For the V6-225 engine, A C 44S or Champion
UJ12Y spark plugs are the replacement spark
plugs recommended. The spark plugs should be
gapped to .035" [0,889 mm.] and should be
torqued to 25 to 33 lb-ft. [3,5 a 4,6 kg-m.].
C-5. Torque Cylinder Head(s) and Manifold
a. Hurricane F 4 Engine.
Torque the cylinder head bolts with a torque
wrench to 60 to 70 lb-ft [8,3 a 9,7 kg-m.]. Follow
the sequence shown in Fig. C-4. Do not overlook
tightening the cylinder head bolt, No. 5, in the
intake manifold directly under the carburetor
opening.
Torque all manifold attaching nuts evenly to 29
to 33 lb-ft. [4,0 a 4,6 kg-m.].
b. Dauntless V-6 Engine.
Torque cylinder head bolts 65 to 85 lb-ft. [9,0 a
11,8 kg-m.]. Follow the sequence shown in Fig.
C-5. Torque all intake manifold bolts 45 to 55 lb-ft.
[6,2 a 7,6 kg-m.]. Torque all exhaust manifold bolts
15 to 20 lb-ft. [2,1 a 2,8 kg-m.]. Refer to Fig. D l for tightening sequence.
14203
F I G . C - 5 — D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E C Y L I N D E R
HEAD BOLT TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
C-6. Service Crankcase Ventilating System
• Refer to Fig. C-6 and C-7.
Positive crankcase ventilation is accomplished by
utilizing the vacuum created in the intake manifold to draw clean air through the crankcase and
valve chamber. A valve, in the vacuum line to the
intake manifold, varies the air flow through the
crankcase to meet changing conditions at all engine
speeds and loads. The system will work effectively
as long as all component parts are clean and free
from sludge and carbon. Improper operation of
the ventilating system can contribute to rough
idling, power loss, and the formation of sludge and
varnish in the engine.
The system also prevents crankcase vapors from
entering the atmosphere. Engine vapors are drawn
into the carburetor through the ventilation valve
and burned with the normal fuel mixture.
21
c
TUNE-UP
I
FIG. C-6—CRANKCASE
VENTILATION
V A L V E S Y S T E M , V6 E N G I N E
1 — Hose Clamp
2 — Hose, Breather to A i r Cleaner
3— Grommet, Valve Cover
4— Crankcase Ventilation Valve
5— Hose. Valve to Carburetor
1
. ...-.X ;
urn
FIG. C-7—POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION
V A L V E L O C A T I O N — - D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
1—Hose on Engines with Fuel Evaporization
Emission Control System Only
22
C
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
The valve, connecting pipes, and hoses must be
inspected and serviced at intervals of 2,000 [3.200
km.], 6,000 [9.600 km.] and 12,000 [19.300 km.]
miles, continuing each 6,000 miles [9.600 km.] of
vehicle operation thereafter. It may be necessary
to inspect and clean the system more frequently
under adverse driving or weather conditions.
Replace the valve each 12,000 miles [19.300 km.],
a. Dauntless V-6 Engine.
Filtered air from the carburetor air cleaner enters
the engine crankcase through a hose. The ventilation valve is mounted on the right cylinder bank
rocker arm cover (Fig. C-7) and is connected by a
hose to a fitting at the base of the carburetor at the
intake manifold opening. The valve varies the air
flow through the crankcase to meet changing conditions at all engine speeds and loads. To check the
operation of the system, remove the valve with the
hose attached from the rocker arm cover. With the
engine running at fast idle, a vacuum must be felt
at the open end of the ventilation valve. If no
vacuum is present, the valve and hose should be
inspected and cause of the restriction determined.
To check the valve disconnect it from the air
13334
FIG. C-9—POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION S Y S T E M — F4 ENGINE
1—Valve Open
(TYPICAL)
2—Valve Closed
23
c
TUNE-UP
14011
FIG. C-8—POSITIVE
VENTILATION
CRANKCASE
VALVE
vacuum hose and insert a stiff wire into the valve
body and observe whether or not the plunger can
be readily moved (Fig. C-8). The valve may be
cleaned, by soaking in a reliable carburetor cleaning solution and drying with low pressure dry air.
b. Hurricane F 4 Engine.
Ventilation of the Hurricane F 4 engine is accomplished in the same manner as the Dauntless V-6
engine described above, the differences being that
clean air enters the crankcase through a hose connected between the top cover of the air cleaner and
the oil filler tube of the engine. The ventilation
valve is screwed to a pipe fitting mounted in the
center of the intake manifold between number two
and three cylinder inlet. A hose connects the ventilation valve to a vapor dome on the rocker arm
cover. Service procedures are the same as those
used on the Dauntless V-6 engine. The valve may
be checked for vacuum pull by removing the hose
from the valve while running the engine at fast idle
speed and placing a finger on the valve opening to
check the vacuum. (Refer to Fig. C-9).
C-7. Service Manifold Heat Control Valve
The Dauntless V-6 engine is equipped with a manifold heat control valve (Fig. F-6). Test the valve
for free operation. Place a few drops of penetrating
oil at each end of the shaft where it passes through
the manifold. Then move the valve up and down
a few times to work the oil into the bushing. When
the engine is cold, the valve should be in the closed
position to ensure a fast warm-up of the intake
manifold for better fuel vaporization. When the
valve is closed, the counterweight is in its counterclockwise position. As the engine warms the counterweight slowly rotates clockwise until the valve
is fully open.
C-8. Check Valve Tappet Clearance
a. Hurricane F 4 Engine.
With the engine cold, check and adjust the intake
valve to .018" [0,460 mm.] clearance and the exhaust valves to .016" [0,406 mm.] clearance. The
intake valves are adjusted by removing the rocker
arm cover mounted on the cylinder head. Turn the
engine over until No. 1 cylinder piston is on top
dead center on its compression stroke, then using a
feeler gauge check the clearance between the valve
stem and the toe of the rocker arm. If clearance is
less or greater than .018" [0,460 mm.] the valve
must be adjusted by turning the rocker arm nut
clockwise to decrease and counterclockwise to increase the clearance. When No. 1 cylinder intake
valve has been properly set use the same procedures to check and reset, if necessary, the remaining
three cylinder valves. The exhaust valves are ad24
justed by removing the tappet cover located on
the right side of the engine. Place the cylinder to
be adjusted on top dead center (compression
stroke) and check the clearance between the valve
stem and tappet screw with a feeler gauge. If the
clearance is less or greater than .016" [0,406 mm.]
the valve must be adjusted by loosening the tappet
screw locknut and turning the screw until the
proper clearance is obtained, then tighten the locknut.
Note: Always recheck the valve clearance after
tightening the locknut.
b. Dauntless V-6 Engine.
The valve tappet clearance of the Dauntless V-6
engine needs no adjustment as the lifters are
hydraulic and require no lash adjustment at time
of assembly or while in service.
C-9. Check Engine Cylinder Compression
a. Hurricane F 4 Engine.
To take the compression readings of the engine
cylinders remove all the spark plugs and disconnect
the high tension wire from the coil. With the
throttle and choke open turn the engine with the
starter motor while firmly holding the compression
gauge in the spark plug port of the cylinder to be
checked. Allow at least four compression strokes
when checking each cylinder and record the first
and fourth stroke reading of the gauge.
When pressure quickly comes up to specified pressure and is uniform between all cylinders within
10 psi. [0,7 kg-cm ] it indicates that the engine is
operating normally with satisfactory seating of
rings, valves, valve timing, etc.
When pressure is low on the first stroke and builds
up to less than specified pressure it indicates compression leakage usually attributable to rings or
valves. T o determine which is responsible, pour
Vz oz. [15 cm ] of tune-up oil into each cylinder.
Allow a few minutes for the oil to leak down past
the rings and then again test compression. If compression pressures improve over the first test, the
trouble is probably worn piston rings and bores. If
compression pressures do not improve, the trouble
is probably caused by improper valve seating. If
this condition is noticed on only two cylinders that
are adjacent, it indicates that there is a possible
gasket leak between these cylinders. If inspection
of the spark plugs from these cylinders disclosed
fouling or surface cracking of electrodes, gasket
leakage is probable.
When pressure is higher than normal it indicates
that carbon deposits in the combustion chamber
have reduced the side of the chamber enough to
give the effect of a raised compression ratio. This
will usually cause a pinging sound in the engine
when under load that cannot be satisfactorily corrected by timing. The carbon must be cleaned out
of the engine cylinders to correct this trouble.
Reinstall the spark plugs. Torque with a wrench
to proper setting.
Advise the vehicle owner if compression is not
satisfactory.
2
3
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
COMPRESSION
kg-cm
9,42
9,56
9,70
9,84
9,98
10,12
10,26
10,40
10,55
10,68
10,83
10,97
11,11
11,25
11,39
11,53
11,67
11,81
11,95
12,09
12,23
12,37
12,51
12,65
12,79
12,94
13,08
Maximum
Pressure
Minimum
Pressure
Maximum
Pressure
psi.
134
136
138
140
142
144
146
148
150
152
154
156
158
160
162
164
166
168
170
172
174
176
178
180
182
184
186
PRESSURE LIMIT CHART
2
psi.
101
102
104
105
107
108
110
111
113
114
115
117
118
120
121
123
124
126
127
129
131
132
133
135
136
138
140
kg-cm
7,10
7,17
7,31
7,38
7,52
7,59
7,73
7,80
7,94
8,01
8,08
8,23
8,30
8,44
8,51
8,65
8,72
8,86
9,83
9,07
9,21
9,28
9,35
9,49
9,56
9,70
9,84
2
b. Dauntless V-6 Engine.
To check the engine cylinder compression use the
following procedures:
Firmly insert compression gauge in spark plug
port (Fig. C-10). Crank engine through at least four
compression strokes to obtain highest possible
reading.
Check compression of each cylinder. Repeat compression check and record highest reading obtained
on each cylinder during the two pressure checks.
Note: The recorded compression pressures are to
be considered normal if the lowest reading cylinder
is more than seventy-five percent of the highest
reading cylinder. See the following example and
the "Compression Pressure Limit Chart".
FIG. C-10—CHECKING ENGINE CYLINDER
C O M P R E S S I O N — D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
psi.
188
190
192
194
196
198
200
202
204
206
208
210
212
214
216
218
220
222
224
226
228
230
232
234
236
238
kg-cm
13,22
13,36
13,50
13,64
13,78
13,92
14,06
14,20
14,34
14,48
14,62
14,76
14,90
15,04
15,18
15,32
15,46
15,61
15,75
15,89
16,03
16,17
16,31
16,45
16,59
16,73
Minimum
Pressure
2
psi.
141
142
144
145
147
148
150
151
153
154
156
157
158
160
162
163
165
166
168
169
171
172
174
175
177
178
kg-cm
9,91
9,98
10,12
10,19
10,33
10,40
10,55
10,62
10,76
10,83
10,97
11,04
11,11
11,25
11,39
11,46
11,60
11,67
11,81
11,88
12,02
12,09
12,23
12,30
12,44
12,51
2
Example:
Cylinder No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
Pressure (psi.)
129 135 140 121 120 100
Seventy-five percent of 140 (highest) is 105. Thus,
Cylinder No. 6 is less than seventy-five percent
of Cylinder No. 3. This condition, accompanied by
low speed missing, indicates an improperly seated
valve or worn or broken piston ring.
If one or more cylinders read low, inject about
a tablespoon of engine oil on top of pistons in low
reading cylinders through spark plug port. Repeat
compression check on these cylinders.
If compression improves considerably, rings are
worn. If compression does not improve, valves are
sticking or seating poorly.
If two adjacent cylinders indicate low compression
and injecting oil does not increase compression, the
cause may be a head gasket leak between the
cylinders. Engine coolant and/or oil in cylinders
could result from this defect.
FIG. C-l 1—CONTACT POINTS M A T E R I A L
TRANSFER
25
c
TUNE-UP
C-10. Distributor Service
The distributor cap should be inspected for cracks,
carbon runners and evidence of arcing. If any
of these conditions exists, the cap should be replaced. Clean any corroded high tension terminals.
Inspect the rotor for cracks or evidence of excessive burning at the end of the metal strip. After
a distributor rotor has had normal use the end
of the rotor will become burned. If burning is found
on top of the rotor it indicates the rotor is too
short and needs replacing. Usually when this condition is found the distributor cap segment will
be burned on the horizontal face and the cap will
also need replacing.
Check the condenser lead for broken wires or
frayed insulation. Clean and tighten the connections on the terminal posts. Be sure the condenser
is mounted firmly on the distributor for a good
ground connection.
Should a condenser tester be available the capacity
should be checked. I n the absence of a tester check
by substituting a new condenser.
Examine the distributor points (Fig. C - l l ) . If they
show wear, poor mating, transferred metal, or
pitting, then new ones should be installed. Clean
the points with a suitable solvent and a stiff
bristled brush.
Check the alignment of the point for a full, square
contact. If not correctly aligned, bend the stationary contact bracket slightly to provide alignment,
a. Hurricane F 4 Engine (Prestolite).
The contact gap of the distributor point on the
Hurricane F 4 engine should be set at .020" [0,508
mm.], measured with a wire gauge. Adjustment of
the gap is accomplished by loosening the lock
screw and turning adjusting eccentric screw (Fig.
C-12) until correct gap is secured. Be sure that the
fiber block on the breaker arm is resting on the
highest point on the cam while the adjustment is
FIG.
C-12—PRESTOLITE DISTRIBUTOR
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
1— Condenser
2— Lubricating W i c k
3— Breaker Cam
4— Breaker Arm Pivot
5— Distributor Cap (Rotation & Firing Order)
6— Distributor Points
7— Adjustment Lock Screw
8— Adjusting Eccentric Screw
9— Oiler
10—Primary W i r e
26
being made. Recheck the gap after locking the
adjustment.
Apply a thin film of cam lubricant to the cam to
lessen fiber block wear.
Should a condenser tester be available the capacity
should check from .21 to .25 microfarads. In the
absence of a tester check by substituting a new
condenser.
Check point contact spring pressure, which should
be between 17 and 20 ounces [0,487 a 0,56 kg.].
Check with a spring scale hooked on the breaker
arm at the contact and pull at right angle to the
breaker arm. Make the reading just as the points
separate. Adjust the point pressure by loosening
the stud holding the end of the contact arm spring
and slide the end of the spring in or out as necessary. Retighten the stud and recheck the pressure.
Too low a pressure will cause engine missing at
high speeds. Too high a pressure will cause rapid
wear of the cam, block, and points.
b. Dauntless V-6 Engine (Delco).
The spark advance is fully automatic being controlled by built-in centrifugal weights, and by a
vacuum advance system (Fig. C-13). The same
checking procedures are used as (a) above except,
the capacity of the condenser must be .18 to .23
microfarads and the contact gap should be set at
.016" [0,406 mm.]. Adjustment of the gap is made
by rotating the socket head adjustment screw with
a Vs" [3,86 mm.] Allen wrench (Fig. C-14).
The contact spring pressure must be 19 to 23 ozs.
[0,538 a 0,652 gr.] and the cam dwell angle is
30°, with distributor vacuum line disconnected.
The preferred method of adjusting cam dwell requires turning of the adjusting screw until the
specific dwell angle is obtained as measured by a
dwell angle meter. Refer to Par. C-l7. To adjust
the cam dwell by an alternate method, turn the
adjusting screw in (clockwise) until the engine
C
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
trolled by built-in centrifugal weights, and by a
vacuum advance system.
The same service checking procedure outlined
in Par. C-lOa, are used for the Prestolite V-6
distributor with exception of specifications.
12963
FIG.
12763
FIG
C-13— D E L C O D I S T R I B U T O R —
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
1—Rotor
2— Breaker Plate Assembly
3 —Lubrication Reservoir
4—Primary Terminal
5—Distributor Housing
6— Shaft Bushing
7— Gear
8—Access Passage
9—Shaft Bushing
10—Vacuum Assembly
11—Cam
12—Weight Assembly
13—Cap
begins to misfire, then give the wrench one-half
turn in the opposite direction (counterclockwise),
thus giving the approximate cam dwell angle requirement
Note: Prestolite and Delco distributors are interchangeable on V-6 engine equipped vehicles.
c. Dauntless V-6 Engine (Prestolite).
• Refer to Fig. C-l5.
The Prestolite distributor installed on the V-6
engine is similar in construction to the distributor
installed on the F 4 engine except for the addition
of a vacuum advance mechanism.
The spark advance is fully automatic being con-
FIG.
C-14—ADJUSTING CONTACT POINT GAP —
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E ( D E L C O )
C-15—-PRESTOLITE DISTRIBUTOR
V-6 E N G I N E
1— Vacuum Advance Unit
5—Lubricating Wick
2— Distributor Points
6—Condenser
3 — Breaker A r m Pivot
7—Adjusting Eccentric Screw
4— Distributor Cap
8—Adjusting Lock Screw
(Rotation & Firing Order)
Specifications for the V-6 Prestolite distributor are
as follows. The condenser capacity must be .25 to
28 mfd., contact breaker arm tension 17 to 22
ounces [482 a 624 gr.], and breaker point gap
.016" [0,406 mm.]. The cam angle must be set
at 29° ± 3 ° with distributor vacuum line disconnected.
C-11. Replacement and Adjustment of Prestolite
Distributor Point Set — V-6 Engine
Replace the Prestolite distributor contact set as
follows:
a. Remove the distributor cap from the distributor.
Remove the rotor.
b. The condenser and primary leads are retained
by breaker point spring tension. Refer to Fig.
C-12 and C-15. Relieve spring tension to remove
the leads.
c. Remove the contact set retaining screw and
remove the contact set.
d. Remove the condenser screw and remove the
condenser.
e. Install new parts by reversing the removal procedure. Relieve spring tension of the breaker point
spring to install the primary and condenser leads.
f. Rotate the crankshaft until the distributor cam
holds the distributor points to a wide-open position.
Check the gap between the points. Then slightly
loosen the contact set mounting screw and adjust
the contact point gap to the proper dimension.
Tighten the mounting screw when correct gap is
attained.
C-12. Breaker Lever Spring Tension
One of the most important items to check is the
breaker lever spring tension. This is checked with
a spring scale hooked immediately behind the
breaker lever contact. Spring tension required to
open the contact points are given in Par. C-10.
27
c
TUNE-UP
C-13. Replacement and Adjustment of
Delco Distributor Point Set
When inspection of the contact points show replacement to be advisable, the following procedure
should be used. See Fig. C-13.
Note: The service replacement contact point set
has the breaker spring tension and point alignment
adjusted at the factory.
Removal
of Contact
Point
Set
a. Remove distributor cap by inserting a screwdriver in upper slotted end of cap retainers, press
down and turn 90° counterclockwise. Push distributor cap aside and remove rotor. Disconnect the
condenser and primary leads from their terminal
by loosening the retaining screw. If there is no
retaining screw, simply slip leads out.
b. Loosen two screws and lock washers which hold
the contact point set in place. Then remove point
set.
Installation
of Contact
Point
Set.
a. Slide contact point set over boss on breaker
plate and under the two screw heads. Tighten two
screws and lock washers.
b. Install condenser and primary leads.
Note: Leads must be properly positioned so they
will not come in contact with bottom of weight
base or rotor.
FIG. C-l6—HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
TIMING MARKS
the notch on the crankshaft pulley. Fig. C-l6 shows
the timing pointer arrangement of the Hurricane
F4 engine. Refer to Ignition Timing Specifications
Par. C-30. When the piston is positioned 5° B T C ,
timing is correctly set if the distributor rotor arm
points to No. 1 terminal in the distributor cap and
the distributor points are just ready to break. See
Fig. C-12. Timing may be altered by loosening the
distributor mounting clamp and turning the distributor. Turn the distributor clockwise to advance
the timing and counterclockwise to retard the timing. Do not overtighten the mounting clamp screw.
c. If engine does not start readily, position contact
arm rubbing block on peak of cam lobe, insert V%"
[3,86 mm.] Allen wrench in adjusting screw and
turn screw in (clockwise) until contact points
just close. Then back screw out (counterclockwise)
V2 turn ( 1 8 0 ° ) to obtain a point gap of approximately .016" [0,406 mm.] for a preliminary setting.
Adjustment
of Contact
Points
— Engine
Running
Note: When adjusting contact point dwell angle,
always follow the instructions which come with the
dwell meter.
a. Connect dwell tester leads: red to distributor
side of coil, black to ground.
b. Turn selector switch to position for 6-lobe cam.
Turn ignition switch on.
c. Start engine. Lift adjustment window and insert
Vs" [3,86 mm.] Allen wrench in adjusting screw.
Set dwell angle at 30 degrees. See Fig. C-14.
d. After adjusting dwell angle, always check
ignition timing.
C-14. Check Ignition Timing
a. Hurricane F 4 Engine.
If a neon timing light is available, use it to check
igntion timing following the instructions of the
timing light manufacturer.
In the absence of a timing light, remove No. 1
spark plug and turn the engine over until No. 1
piston is on compression stroke as indicated by
air being forced from No. 1 spark plug opening.
Turn the engine slowly until the specified degree
mark on the timing gear cover is in alignment with
28
FIG. C-l7—DISTRIBUTOR ROTATION AND
FIRING ORDER, F4 ENGINE
b. Dauntless V-6 Engine.
Check timing with a timing light connected to the
spark plug of No. 1 cylinder (front cylinder, left
bank). Yellow timing mark on the vibration
damper must align with the specified degree mark
on the timing indicator (Fig. C-18). Refer to Ignition Timing Specifications Par. C-30. With the
engine running at correct idle speed and the vacuum advance hose disconnected from the distributor
and the line plugged, check for correct timing setting. If necessary, loosen the distributor clamp bolt
and rotate the distributor until proper alignment
of timing marks is attained. Tighten mounting
screw. After correct setting is made, unplug the
vacuum line and reconnect it, operate the engine
and check operation of the vacuum advance.
Note: Turn the distributor counterclockwise to advance timing; turn clockwise to retard timing.
C
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
b. With the ignition switch on, the voltage should
not exceed .4 volts. More than .4 volts indicates
excessive resistance exists in the battery cable,
ignition switch wiring, or the ignition switch. The
excessive resistance may be located with voltmeter
checks across each section of the circuit.
c. Remove the jumper wire from the coil. Connect
the voltmeter positive (-f) lead to the distributor
terminal of the ignition coil. Ground the negative
(—) lead of the voltmeter.
12156
F I G . C-20—IGNITION P R I M A R Y
RESISTANCE CHECK
F I G . C - 1 8 — D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
TIMING MARKS
C-15. Primary Circuit Tests
Excessive voltage drop in the primary circuit will
reduce the secondary output of the ignition coil,
resulting in hard starting and poor performance.
Inspect all primary wiring for loose or corroded
terminals, worn insulation, and broken strands,
a. Connect voltmeter positive (-J-) lead to the
positive battery terminal, as shown in Fig. C-20.
The negative lead (—) is connected to the ignition
side of the resistor on Dauntless V-6 engine. The
negative lead (—) is connected to the ignition primary of the coil on Hurricane F 4 engine. Connect a jumper wire from the distributor primary
terminal of the coil to the ground. Be sure all
lights and accessories are off.
CIRCUIT
1— Distributor
2 —Distributor Primary Terminal
3 — Coil
4— Ignition Resistor
5—Ignition Switch
6— Ignition Switch Side of Resistor
7—Positive Battery Terminal
8— Battery
9— Jumper Wire
d. Note the voltage with the ignition switch on.
If battery voltage is indicated, the distributor
breaker points are open. Rock the engine to close
the points. Voltage less than .2 volt indicates the
points are satisfactory. Voltage more than .2 volt
indicates burned or high resistance in the ignition
points or a poor distributor ground.
C-l 6. Distributor Resistance Test
A dwell tester is used for the following tests. E x cessive resistance in the ignition primary circuit,
from the distributor side of the coil through the
points and to the distributor ground, will prevent
the coil from producing sufficient output for good
overall ignition. Any resistance in this portion of
the ignition system will be indicated on the dwell
14242
FIG. C-19—DISTRIBUTOR ROTATION AND
F I R I N G O R D E R , V-6 E N G I N E
FIG. C-21—DISTRIBUTOR RESISTANCE
CHECK
29
c
TUNE-UP
meter during this test Connect the red lead tc* distributor primary lead at the coil as shown in Fig.
C-21. Connect black lead to the ground. Turn
ignition switch on; with engine stopped, observe
dwell meter. If the meter reads zero, crank the
engine a fraction of a revolution to close the
breaker points.
Distributor resistance is normal, if dwell meter
pointer is within range of black bar. Distributor
resistance is high, if dwell meter pointer is not
within the black bar. R e m o v e test lead from distri-
butor terminal of coil and connect to each of the
following points to determine where the excessive
resistance is:
Distributor primary terminal
Distributor primary terminal in the distributor
Breaker point bracket
Ground side of points
Distributor housing
Where a noticeable change occurs in the meter
reading in these steps, make the necessary correction and repeat the test.
C-l 7. Distributor Point Dwell
Using a dwell tester, connect red lead to the distributor terminal at coil. Connect black lead to
ground. Set selector switch to the number of cylinders in the engine being tested. Operate engine
speed at specified rpm. and note readings. Cam
dwell angle must be 30° for the Dauntless V-6
Delco equipped engine, 29° ±: 3° Prestolite
equipped engine and 42° for the Hurricane F 4
engine. If the dwell reading is not to specifications,
trouble could be improper point spacing, point
rubbing, defective block or breaker arm, or misaligned and worn distributor cam. Adjust dwell
as shown in Fig. C-14 for the Delco equipped
Dauntless V-6 engine. For cam dwell adjustment
of the Prestolite equipped V6 and Hurricane F 4
engine, refer to Par. C-10, step a.
Dwell variation is determined by noting any dwell
change as the engine is operated at different speeds.
Excessive variation indicates a change in point
opening that can result from shaft or bushing wear,
or from the distributor plate shifting because of
wear or looseness.
Measure dwell variation at idle speed, using same
test hookup for checking dwell. Increase speed to
1750 rpm.; note dwell reading. Then slowly reduce
speed to idle while observing dwell meter. Dwell
variation should not exceed 3°. If dwell variation
exceeds 3° between idle speed and 1750 rpm.,
probable wear in the distributor shaft, bushings, or
breaker plate is indicated. Distributor should then
be checked more thoroughly.
C-l8.
Check Ignition Wires and Connections
Examine and clean the insulation on all ignition
wires and check all connections. Wires should be
firm, flexible, and free from roughness and minute
cracks. Bend wires to check for brittle, cracked, or
loose insulation. Since defective insulation will permit crossfiring or missing of the engine, defective
wires should be replaced.
C-l9.
Test Ignition Cables
To remove cables from spark plugs, use Spark
30
Plug Cable Remover Tool W-274. Twist the boot
slightly to break the seal and, grasping the rubber
protector boot, lift straight up with a steady even
pull. Do not grasp the cable and jerk the cable
off; this will damage the cables. Do not use a probe
on these wires; puncturing them may cause a
separation in the conductor. T o remove ignition
cables from the distributor cap or coil tower, loosen
the nipple first, then grasp the upper part of the
nipple and the cable and gently pull straight up.
Test the cable with an ohmmeter. Resistance value
per foot is 3000-7000 ohms. The ignition cables
can be checked for circuit continuity by removing
the cable from the spark plug and holding the cable
end V i " [6,35 mm.] from the engine. A strong
spark indicates good conductor continuity.
When connecting the cable to the spark plug, be
certain a good connection is made and that the
protector boot fits tight on the spark plug. A
partially seated cable creates an additional gap in
the circuit and the resulting spark jump will cause
terminal corrosion and cable damage.
C-20. Coil
When an ignition coil is suspected of being defective, it should be checked on the car. A coil may
break down after it has reached operating temperature. It is important that the coil be at operating
temperature when tests are made.
Note: The ignition coil and ballast resistor for the
V-6 engine must be of the same manufacturer.
Ballast resistors and ignition coils of one manufacturer are interchangeable with both units of the
other.
C-21. Service Air Cleaner
Refer to Par. B-2 2 for the correct service of the
air cleaner.
C-22. Check Fuel Lines and Screens
Check all fuel line connections to guard against
leakage. Check fuel pump filter F 4 engine and
fuel line filter V-6 engine. Replace fuel filter if
necessary.
C-23. Check Fuel Pump
a. Fuel pump pressure is important, for low pressure will seriously affect engine operation and high
pressure will cause excessive fuel consumption and
possibly flood the carburetor. Should there be any
doubt of normal operation, check the pressure with
a gauge as shown in Fig. C-2 2. The minimum and
maximum allowable pressures are 2% to 3% lbs.
[0,176 a 0,264 kg-cm ], for the Hurricane F 4 engine. Fuel pump pressure at carburetor (inlet) on
the Dauntless V6-225 engine should be 3% lbs.
[0,264 kg-cm ] minimum at specified R.P.M. idle
with the vapor return hose squeezed off. With the
vapor return hose open pump pressure should be
2 V2 lbs. [0,176 kg-cm ] minimum.
b. Test for volume, as a pump may build up sufficient pressure but fail to produce sufficient volume.
Turn down the carburetor fuel line fitting on the
pump and with the tank line connected, pump out
2
2
2
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
F I G . C-22—-CHECKING F U E L PUMP P R E S S U R E —
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
a couple of strokes to be sure the pump is primed.
Using a half-pint bottle or similar measure, pump
Vi pint [0,24 I t ] of fuel by cranking the engine
with the starter motor. Count the strokes necessary to fill the measure. If more than 20 strokes
are required, the fuel pump is inefficient, the tank
line is leaking air, or the fuel supply is restricted.
Check fuel filter in the fuel tank if line is restricted.
C-24. Check Manifold Vacuum
To check the intake manifold vacuum on the Hurricane F 4 engine, remove the ventilation valve and
L fitting from the manifold and install special
adapter. On the Dauntless V-6 engine remove the
pipe plug located in the right rear of the intake
C
manifold and install special adapter. Connect the
vacuum gauge tube to the special adapter as shown
in Fig. C-23 for the Hurricane F 4 engine.
Start the engine. Connect a Tachometer Tool,
C-3896, from the distributor primary terminal to
ground and set the engine speed at the specified
rpm. given in Par. C-30. Observe the vacuum reading and interpret as follows:
a. A steady reading from 18" to 20" [457 a 508
mm.] of mercury is a normal reading, indicating
that valve and spark timing, valve seating, and
piston ring sealing are all satisfactory.
b. A steady but below normal reading indicates
a condition common to all cylinders such as a
leak at the carburetor gasket, late ignition or valve
timing, or uniform piston ring and bore wear.
c. A slowly fluctuating or drifting reading indicates that the carburetor idle mixture is incorrect
Look for the cause in the fuel system.
d. A rhythmic pulsating reading is caused by a
condition affecting one or more cylinders, but not
all, and indicates leaky valve, gasket blowby, restricted intake port, or an electrical miss.
e. An intermittent pulsating reading is caused by
an occasional malfunction, such as a sticking valve
(all valves may be erratic in operation if the valve
springs are weak), electrical miss caused by insufficient distributor point tension or low coil voltage
coupled with inconsistent spark plug gaps or fouled
plugs, or dirt in the fuel system finding its way into
passages of critical size or valve seats in the carburetor.
f. A normal reading that quickly falls off (with
engine running at 2000 rpm.) indicates exhaust
back pressure caused by a restriction in the exhaust
system.
g. Make indicated corrections to bring vacuum to
18" to 20" [457 a 508 mm.] of mercury normal
reading.
C-25. Carburetor Adjustments
• Refer to Fig. C-24, C-25 and C-26.
Carburetor adjustments should not be attempted
until it is known that engine ignition and compression are in good order. Any attempt to adjust
or alter the carburetor to compensate for faulty
conditions elsewhere will result in reduced economy and overall performance.
Caution: If an engine is idling too slow or rough,
this may be caused by a clogged ventilator valve
or hose; therefore, never adjust the carburetor idle
without first checking the crankcase ventilator
check valve and hose.
The air cleaner must be left in place while making
idle speed and mixture adjustments. All lights and
accessories, must be turned off. The positive crankcase ventilator system should also be in good operating condition when making carburetor adjustments. Either of these items noticeably affects the
air fuel ratio at idle.
• Hurricane F 4 Engine.
FIG. C-23—CHECKING MANIFOLD VACUUM —
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
Note: The idle mixture adjustment procedure for
the late model YF-4941S and YF-6115S Carter
31
c
TUNE-UP
Carburetor equipped with the External Idle Mixture Limiter Cap is the same as outlined below
in Pars. "A" through "D"; however, because of the
Idle Limiter Cap, the idle mixture screw CANNOT
be adjusted in the counter-clockwise (rich) direction. The adjustment is made from the rich stop
position and the mixture screw is turned in (clockwise) approximately A turn to "Lean Best Idle."
Refer to Fig. C-25.
3
The "Lean Best Idle" method of idle setting is
as follows:
a. Any scheduled service of ignition system should
precede this adjustment.
b. Connect tachometer or vacuum gauge to engine.
c. Warm up engine and stabilize temperatures.
d. Adjust engine idle to speed desired, using throttle idle speed adjusting screw.
e. Carburetors without Idle Limiter Cap turn idle
mixture screws out (counterclockwise) until a loss
of engine speed is indicated; then, slowly turn mixture screw in (clockwise-leaner) until maximum
speed ( R P M ) is reached. Continue turning in
(clockwise) until speed begins to drop; turn mixture adjustment back out (counterclockwise-richer)
until maximum speed is just regained at a "lean
as possible" mixture adjustment. Refer to Fig. C-24.
FIG. C-24—CARBURETOR —
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E , E A R L Y M O D E L
1— Choke Clamp Bracket
2 —Choke Shaft and Lever Assembly
3 — Fuel Inlet Elbow
4— Bowl Vent Tube
5 — idle A i r Adjusting Needle
6— Throttle Lever and Shalt Assembly
7—Idle Speed Adjusting Screw
8— Fast Idle Connector Rod
Note: When adjusting the mixture screw never
seat the screw tight during the adjustment procedure as this can damage the screw needle.
• Dauntless V-6 Engine.
The "Lean Best Idle" method of idle setting is
as follows:
a. Any scheduled service of ignition system should
precede this adjustment.
b. Connect tachometer to engine.
c. Warm up engine and stablize temperatures.
d. Adjust engine idle to speed desired, using throttle idle speed adjusting screw.
FIG. C-25—CARBURETOR —
F4 E N G I N E , L A T E M O D E L
1— Choke Clamp Bracket
2 —Throttle Lever and Shaft
3 — Choke Shaft and Lever
4 Bowl Vent Tube
5 —Fuel Inlet Elbow
6— Dash Pot Bracket
7—Throttle Lever
8— Dash Pot Plunger
9— Dash Pot Assembly
10— Lock Nut
11— Stop P i n
12— Idle Mixture Limiter Cap
13— Idle Speed Adjusting Screw
14—Fast Idle Connecting Rod
Note: The Carter YF-6115S Carburetor has a throttle return spring attached from the carburetor
main body to the carburetor throttle shaft The
purpose of this spring is to return the throttle
to idle speed position should a linkage failure
occur.
32
FIG. C-26—CARBURETOR —
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
1— Fuel Inlet
2—-Choke Housing
3 — Choke Cable Bracket
4— Idle Speed Adjusting Screw
5—Idle Fuel-Air Mixture Screws
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
C
C-26. Dash Pot Adjustment
Refer to Section E , Par. E-44 for proper carburetor
dash pot adjustment procedure.
C-27. Check Fan Belt
The fan belt drives the fan, alternator, and water
pump. See Fig. C-27.
Inspect the fan belt for serviceability and proper
tension. The tension should be checked with the
Belt Tension Gauge, W-283. The correct tension
on a used belt is 70 to 80 pounds [31,7 a 36,2 kg.]
and on a new belt 110 to 120 pounds [49,8 a
54,5 kg.]. When preparing for delivery of new car,
the belt strand tension should be 80 to 110 pounds
[36,2 a 49,8 kg.]. When installing a new belt, adjust
the strand tension 110 to 120 pounds [49,8 a
54,5 kg.].
Adjust the fan belt tension by loosening the clamp
bolt on the alternator brace and swinging the alternator away from the engine until proper belt tension is obtained. Then tighten the clamp bolt.
F I G . C-2 7 — F A N B E L T — D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
e. Adjust mixture by turning idle mixture screws
out (counterclockwise) until a loss of engine speed
is indicated; then, slowly turn both mixture screws
in clockwise (leaner) until maximum speed ( R P M )
is reached. Continue turning in (clockwise) until a
slight drop in speed ( R P M ) is noted. Make certain
both mixture screws are adjusted equally. This will
ensure a "lean as possible" mixture adjustment.
Readjust idle stop screw to idle engine at the
specified R.P.M.
Note: This method of adjusting idle mixture must
be used to keep hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide
emissions to a minimum.
Note: No fast idle speed adjustment is required.
Fast idle is controlled by the curb idle speed adjustment screw. If the curb idle speed is correctly
set, the fast idle speed will be correct.
Note: If no gauge is available approximate correct
tension is obtained when the thumb pressure midway between the pulleys causes the belt to flex
y% inch [IV4 cm.].
C-28. ROAD TEST VEHICLE
After completing the tune-up, road test the vehicle
for power and overall performance. Make necessary adjustments.
Note: Engine run on or "dieseling" is a condition
in which combustion continues to take place after
the normal ignition spark from the distributor has
been shut off by turning off the ignition switch. It
is generally caused by excessive engine idle speed
in combination with retarded ignition timing, engine heat soak or the use of low octane fuel.
Should engine dieseling (engine running after ignition key is turned off) be experienced on V-6
engine equipped vehicles, installation of Idle Stop
Valve Kit Part No. 991722 will correct the
difficulty.
33
TUNE-UP
C-29. SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
POOR FUEL ECONOMY
Ignition Timing Slow or Spark Advance Stuck
Carburetor Float High
Accelerator Pump Not Properly Adjusted
High Fuel Pump Pressure
Fuel Leakage
Leaky Fuel Pump Diaphragm
Loose Engine Mounting Causing
High Fuel Level in Carburetor
Low Compression
Valves Sticking
Spark Plugs Bad
Spark Plug Cables Bad
Weak Coil or Condenser
Improper Valve Tappet Clearance
Carburetor Air Cleaner Dirty
High Oil Level in Air Cleaner
Dragging Brakes
Front Wheels Out of Alignment
Tires Improperly Inflated
Inaccurate Odometer
Faulty Fuel Tank Cap
Clogged Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe
Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve
LACK O F POWER
Low Compression
Ignition System (Timing Late)
Improper Functioning Carburetor
or Fuel Pump
Fuel Lines Clogged
Air Cleaner Restricted
Engine Temperature High
Improper Tappet Clearance
Sticking Valves
Valve Timing Late
Leaky Gaskets
Muffler Clogged
Bent Exhaust Pipe
Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve —
Dauntless V-6 Engine
LOW COMPRESSION
Leaky Valves
Poor Piston Ring Seal
Sticking Valves
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder Scored or Worn
Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Piston Clearance too Large
Leaky Cylinder Head Gasket
BURNED VALVES AND SEATS
Sticking Valves or too Loose in Guides
Improper Timing
Excessive Carbon Around Valve Head and Seat
Overheating
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Valve Tappet Sticking
Valve Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Clogged Exhaust System
Defective Valve Lifter — Hydraulic
34
VALVES STICKING
Warped Valve
Improper Tappet Clearance
Carbonized or Scored Valve Stems
Insufficient Clearance Valve Stem to Guide
Weak or Broken Valve Spring
Valve Spring Cocked
Contaminated Oil
OVERHEATING
Inoperative Cooling System
Theromstat Inoperative
Improper Ignition Timing
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Carbon Accumulation
Fan Belt too Loose
Clogged Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe
Oil System Failure
Scored or Leaky Piston Rings
Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve —
Dauntless V-6 Engine
POPPING-SPITTING-DETONATION
Improper Ignition
Improper Carburetion
Excessive Carbon Deposit in
Combustion Chambers
Poor Valve Seating
Sticking Valves
Broken Valve Spring
Tappets Adjusted too Close
Spark Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in Fuel
Clogged Lines
Improper Valve Timing
Clogged Fuel Filter
Sticking Exhaust Manifold Valve —
Dauntless V-6 Engine
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION
Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Worn or Broken
Piston Rings Improperly Fitted or Weak
Piston Ring Oil Return Holes Clogged
Excessive Clearance, Main and
Connecting Rod Bearings
Oil Leaks at Gaskets or Oil Seals
Excessive Clearance, Valve Stem
to Valve Guide (Intake)
Cylinder Bores Scored, Out-ofRound or Tapered
Too Much Clearance, Piston to Cylinder Bore
Misaligned Connecting Rods
High Road Speeds or Temperature
Crankcase Ventilator Not Operating
BEARING FAILURE
Crankshaft Bearing Journal Out-of-Round
Crankshaft Bearing Journal Rough
Lack of Oil
Oil Leakage
Dirty Oil
Low Oil Pressure or Oil Pump Failure
Drilled Passages in Crankcase
or Crankshaft Clogged
Oil Screen Dirty
Connecting Rod Bent
C-30. TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS
H U R R I C A N E F4
D A U N T L E S S V-6
12 Volts
Negative
12 Volts
Negative
1.260
1.225
1.260
1.225
10 Volts
10 Volts
A C 45 or Champion J-8
.030" [0,762 mm.]
25 to 33 lb-ft. [3,5 a 4,6 kg-m.]
A C 44S or Champion U J 1 2 Y
.035" [0,889 mm.]
25 to 35 lb-ft. [3,5 a 4,8 kg-m.]
ITEM
BATTERY:
Voltage
Terminal Ground
Specific Gravity:
Fully Charged
Recharge at
Load Test, minimum:
12-Volt Battery. .
SPARK PLUGS:
Make and Model
Gap
Tightening Torque
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
CRANKING:
VALVES:
Tappet Clearance Cold:
Intake
Exhaust:
Timing (Intake Opens)
DISTRIBUTOR
Model
Dwell Angle
Point Gap
Arm Spring Tension
Firing Order and Direction . . . .
IGNITION TIMING.
Mark Location
ENGINE IDLE SPEED:
W / O Exhaust Emission Control
With Exhaust Emission Control
F 4 W/Dist. IAY-4401A
F 4 W/Dist. IAY-4401B
FIRING ORDER
2
120 to 130 psi. [8,4 a 9,2 kg-cm ]
Zero (Hydraulic Lifters)
Zero (Hydraulic Lifters)
.018" [0,460 mm.]
.016" [0,406 mm.]
9° B T C
PRESTOLITE
IAY-4012
IAY-4401
IAY-4401A
IAY-4401B
42°
.020" [0,508 mm.]
17 to 20 oz. [0,482 @ 0,567 gr.]
1-3-4-2 Counterclockwise
5° B T C
0° T D C
Vibration Damper or Timing Cover
DELCO-REMY
1110376
30°
19 to 23 oz.
[0,538 @ 0,652 gr.'
5° B T C
PRESTOLITE
IAT-4501
IAT-4502A
IAT-4502
29° ± 3°
.016" [0,401 mm.]
17 to 22 oz. [0,482 % 0,624 gr.]
1-6-5-4-3-2- Clockwise
5° B T C
Timing Cover
0° T D C
650/700 rpm.
650/700 rpm.
600 rpm.
650/700 rpm.
700/750 rpm.
1-3-4-2
1-6-5-4-3-2
N O T E : F O R V E H I C L E S E Q U I P P E D W I T H E X H A U S T E M I S S I O N C O N T R O L , A L S O R E F E R T O S E C T I O N F l (F4-134 E N G I N E ) A N D S E C T I O N
F 2 (V6-225 E N G I N E ) .
Co
O
'Jeep
9
UNIVERSAL S E R I E S S E R V I C E MANUAL
D
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL...
Description
Engine Ground Strap
Engine Mountings
D-l
D-2
D-4
D-3
ENGINE REMOVAL
D-5
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
Camshaft
Clutch
Crankshaft.
Crankshaft Pulley.
Cylinder Head.
Distributor.
Exhaust Manifold
Exhaust Valves and Springs
Flywheel. .
Front E n d Plate
Oil Filler Tube
Oil Gallery Plugs
Oil P a n .
Oil Pump
Piston and Connecting Rods. . .
Ream Cylinder Bore Ridges.
Rocker Arm Assemblies
Thermostat
Timing Gear Cover
Timing Gears
Valve Tappets
Ventilation Valve
Water Outlet Fitting
Water Pump
D-6
. . . . . . . D-28
D-24
D-26
D-l2
.D-17
.D-13
D-8
D-2 7
D-25
D-23
D-9
D-30
. ...D-19
D-l4
D-20
D-l8
D-l6
D-ll
. . D-21
D-22
D-29
D-l5
D-10
D-7
E N G I N E I N S P E C T I O N A N D R E P A I R . .D-31
Camshaft and Bearings.
D-51
Camshaft End-Play
. . .D-53
Camshaft Front Bearing Replacement..... D-52
Checking Connecting Rod Crank Pins
D-42
Checking Crankshaft Alignment
. . D-40
Checking Main Bearing Journals.
D-41
Cleaning. .
D-33
Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
D-48
Connecting Rod Bearings
D-47
Connecting Rod Side Play
D-50
Core Hole Expansion Plug
D-72
Crankshaft
. . D-38, 39
Crankshaft Main Bearing Inspection
D-44
Crankshaft Main Bearings
D-43
Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal
D-63
Cylinder Block
D-32
Cylinder Bores
D-35
Cylinder Head. .
. D-73
Exhaust Valve Seat Insert Replacement. . . D-60
Fitting Crankshaft Main Bearings
Using Plastigage
D-45
Fitting Crankshaft Main Bearings
Using Shim Stock
D-46
Floating Oil Intake
D-64
Flywheel.
.
. .D-67
Flywheel Housing
D-71
SUBJECT
FAR.
Flywheel Inspection.
D-6 8
Flywheel Pilot Bushing
D-70
Inspection
D-3 4
Inspection of Valves, Springs and Guides. .D-57
Installing Connecting Rod B e a r i n g s . . . . . . . D-49
Oil Pan
D-66
Oil Pump
D-65
Piston Ring Application Chart
D-3 7
Pistons, Rings, and Connecting R o d s . . . . . D-36
Refacing Valves
. D-58
Ring Gear Replacement
D-69
Rocker Arm Shaft Disassembly.
D-75, 76
Rocker Arm Shaft Reassembly.
. D-77
Rocker Arms
D-74
Tappets and Cover. .
D-62
Timing Gears and Cover
D-54, 55
Valve Guide Replacement
D-61
Valve Seat Inspection and Refacing
D-59
Valve, Springs and Guides
D-56
ENGINE REASSEMBLY
D-78
Camshaft and Thrust Plate
.D-81
Camshaft Timing Gear
D-91
Check Crankshaft End-Play. . . . . . . . . . . . . D - 8 3
Clutch.
...D-89
Crankshaft and B e a r i n g s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D-82
Crankshaft Pulley
D-96
Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal..
.
. D-85
Crankshaft Timing Gear
D-84
Cylinder Head
D-98
Distributor
D - l 00
Flywheel
® . . .. D-87
Flywheel Housing
D-88
Front E n d Plate
D-86
Manifold.......
D-101
Oil Filler Tube
D-102
Oil Gallery Plug.
D-79
Oil Pan.
D-97
Oil Pump
D-93
Pistons and Connecting Rods
D-95
Rocker Arm Assembly
D-99
Spark Plugs.
.D-100
Tappets
D-80
Timing Gear Cover
D-94
Timing Gear Oil Jet
D-92
Valves and Springs
. . . D-90
Water Outlet Fitting
D-104
Water Pump
D-103
ENGINE INSTALLATION.
............D-105
F I N A L I N - V E H I C L E A D J U S T M E N T S . .D-106
Check Valve Timing
..
D-109
Crankcase Ventilation Valve.
D - l 10
Oil Filter
, . . ...D-lll
Valve Adjustment
D-107
Valve Adjustment Procedure
D-l08
S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS
D-112
SPECIFICATIONS
D - l 13
37
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
D-1. G E N E R A L
This section describes service and repair of the
F 4 engine. The engine code number shown in Fig.
A-3 is provided to identify the four cylinder engine.
The meaning of the coded letters and numbers that
are stamped on the water pump boss, at the front
of the cylinder block, is given below.
Letter to
Designate Market
M
E
D
I
—
—
—
—
Letter to
Designate Y e a r Built
Military
Export
Domestic
Industrial & Marine
R — 1969
S — 1970
T — 1971
Letter to
Designate Engine
U — 1972
V — 1973
W — 1974
Numbers to Designate
Compression Ratio
F — F4-134 Engine
63 - 6.3 to 1
67 • • 6.7 to 1
71 - 7.1 to 1
EXAMPLE
D
Market (Domestic)
(1970)
Engine(F4-134)
Day(123rd)
S
F
123
A B
S
"L
Compression Ratio
(6.7)
- Service Engine (S)
Short Block (R)
-.010* Oversize Pistons
-.010* Undersize Main
and Rod Bearings
All disassembly and assembly procedures are
presented in logical order, assuming a complete
engine overhaul with engine removed from the
vehicle. However, many of these procedures can
also be performed as on-vehicle services if vehicle
or engine components are removed to gain access
to parts involved.
N o t e : Some engines are equipped with an exhaust
emission control system. Service information on
the components of this system is given in Section
F-l.
D-2. Description
The Hurricane F4-134 engine is an F-head, fourcyiinder engine of combination valve-in-head and
valve-in-block construction. Large intake valves
mounted in the head allow rapid, unobstructed
flow of fuel and air to the combustion chambers
through short, water-jacketed intake passages.The
intake valves are operated by push rods through
rocker arms. The exhaust valves are mounted
in the block with through water jacketing to
provide effective cooling. The exhaust valves are
operated by conventional valve tappets.
The engine is pressure lubricated. An oil pump
driven from the camshaft forces the lubricant
through oil channels and drilled passages in the
crankshaft to efficiently lubricate the main and
connecting rod bearings. Lubricant is also force
fed to the camshaft bearings, rocker arms, timing
gears, etc. Cylinder walls and piston pins are
lubricated from spurt holes in the "follow" side of
the connecting rods.
38
Circulation of the coolant is controlled by a
thermostat in the water outlet elbow cast as part
of the cylinder head.
The cylinder head assembly when installed on the
engine consists of the inlet valve guides, inlet
valves, inlet valve springs, rocker arm and shaft
assemblies, spark plugs, temperature indicator
fitting, water outlet fitting, and other assembled
parts. The carburetor and air cleaner assembly
bolt to the top of the cylinder head. The rocker
arm cover is attached to the top of the head to
enclose the inlet valve mechanism.
The engine is equipped with a fully counterbalanced
crankshaft supported by three main bearings. To
better control balance, the counterweights are independently forged and permanently attached to
the crankshaft with dowels and cap screws that are
tack-welded. Crankshaft end play is adjusted by
shims placed between the crankshaft thrust washer
and the shoulder on the crankshaft.
The exhaust manifold is a separate unit. The intake
manifold is cast as an integral part of the cylinder
head and is completely water jacketed. This construction transfers heat from the cooling system
to the intake passages and assists in vaporizing
the fuel when the engine is cold. Therefore, there
is no heat control valve required in the exhaust
manifold. Individual exhaust ports in the cylinder
block direct gasses into the exhaust manifold for
unobstructed flow through the exhaust system.
The pistons have an extra groove directly above
the top ring which acts as a heat dam or insulator.
As is common practice with manufacturers, some
engines are built with oversize cylinder bores or
undersize crankshaft journals. These engines are
considered standard as replacement parts of the
correct sizes are supplied. Before ordering parts or
doing any work with a particular engine, it is
important to check the engine code number to
determine if oversize or undersize parts are required. Definite identification is given by a letter
stamped after the engine code number. See Fig.
A-5 for location. The letters used and their meanings are given here:
A — .010* [0,254 mm.] undersize main and
connecting rod bearings.
B — .010" [0,254 mm.] oversize pistons.
A B — Combination of A and B .
S — Service engine.
R — Short Block.
Detailed specifications for the Hurricane F4 engine
are at the end of this section. Torque specifications
for engine service are at the end of this manual in
Section U . When adjustments are necessary, refer
to these specifications so that factory clearances
are maintained.
D-3. Engine Mountings
The front of the engine is supported by two rubber
Text continued
on page 41.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
FIG. D-l—HURRICANE F4-ENGINE — E N D SECTION
1— Intake Valve Spring Retainer
2—Adjusting Screw
3— N u t
4— Rocker A r m
5— Push Rod
6— Intake Valve Guide
7— Intake Valve
8— Exhaust Valve
9— Cylinder Head Gasket
10— Exhaust Valve Guide
11— Exhaust Manifold
12— Exhaust Valve Spring
13—Valve Spring Cover
14— Oil Pump Gear
15— Camshaft
16—Oil Pump
VIEW
17— Relief Plunger
18— Relief Plunger Spring
19— Relief Spring Retainer
20— Oil Pan
2 1 — D r a i n Plug
22—Oil Float Support
23—Oil Float
24— Crankshaft
25— Engine Rear Plate
26— Cylinder Block
27— Connecting Rod
28—Oil Filler Tube
29— Piston
30— Cylinder Head
3 1 — Intake Valve Spring
.12—Carburetor
39
D
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
®
<S>® ® ®
®
®
FIG. D-2—HURRICANE
1— Fan
2—Water Pump
3—Pipe Plug
4— Water Outlet Fitting
5— Thermostat
6— Piston
7—Rocker Shaft Bracket
8— Rocker A r m Shaft
9— Rocker Shaft Spring
10— Spark Plug
11—Rocker Shaft Lock Screw
12—Exhaust Valve
13—Intake Valve
14— Intake Valve Spring
15— Intake Valve Guide
16— Rocker Arm
17—Intake Tappet Adjusting Screw
18— Rocker Arm Cover
19—Oil Line
20— Cylinder Head
21— Intake Valve Push Rod
22—Exhaust Valve Guide
23—Exhaust Manifold
24— Exhaust Valve Spring
25—Cylinder Block
26—Piston Pin
27— Exhaust Tappet Adjusting Screw
40
® @> ®
® ®® ®
(§)
11759
F4-ENGINE — SIDE SECTIONAL VIEW
28— Engine Rear Plate
29— Camshaft
30— Flywheel
31— Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal
32— Crankshaft Rear Bearing
33— Intake Valve Tappet
34— Crankshaft
35— Crankshaft Bearing Dowel
36—Oil Float Support
37—Oil Float
38— Crankshaft Center Bearing
39— Connecting R o d Bearing
40—Oil Pan
41—Connecting Rod
42—Crankshaft Front Bearing
43—Engine Front Plate
44— Crankshaft Gear
45— Crankshaft Oil Seal
46— Drive Pulley
47— Crankshaft Gear Spacer
48—Oil Jet
49— Bolt
50— Camshaft Gear Thrust Plate Spacer
5 1 — Camshaft Thrust Plate
52— Camshaft Gear
53—Fan-and-Generator Belt
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
insulator mountings attached to the frame side
rail brackets. The rear of the engine-transmission
assembly is supported by a rubber insulator
mounting under the rear of the transmission on
the frame center cross member. This cross member
is bolted to the frame side rails so that it can be
dropped when removing the transmission or enginetransmission assembly. The rubber insulators allow
free side and vertical oscillation to effectively
neutralize engine vibration at the source.
The rubber insulator mountings should be inspected
for separation and deterioration by jacking the
power plant away from the frame, near the supports. Vibration cannot be effectively absorbed by
separated or worn insulators. They should be replaced if faulty.
D-4. Engine Ground Strap
To be sure of an effective ground for the electrical
circuits, a ground strap bridges the right front
engine support to the chassis. The connections of
this strap must be kept clean and tight for proper
operation of the electrical system.
D-5. E N G I N E R E M O V A L
Should the engine require overhauling, it is necessary to remove it from the vehicle. The following
procedure covers removal of the engine only.
The engine, transmission and transfer case may be
removed as a unit by removing (in addition to the
following procedure) the radiator guard and the
access plates in the floor pan.
a. Drain the cooling system by opening the drain
cocks at the bottom of the radiator and lower right
side of the cylinder block.
b. Disconnect the battery at the positive terminal
to avoid the possibility of short circuit.
c. Remove the air cleaner horn from the carburetor
and disconnect the breather hose at the oil filler
pipe.
d . Disconnect the carburetor choke and throttle
controls by loosening the clamp bolts and set
screws.
e. Disconnect the fuel-tank-to-fuel-pump line at
the fuel pump by unscrewing the connecting nut.
f- Plug the fuel line to prevent fuel leakage.
g. Remove the radiator and radiator grille support
rods.
h. Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses by
loosening the hose clamps and slipping the clamps
back on the hose. If so equipped, remove the heater
hoses (one to the water pump, one to the rear of
the cylinder head) in the same manner.
i. Remove the four bolts from the fan hub and remove the fan hub and fan blades.
j . Remove the four radiator attaching screws. Remove the radiator and shroud as one unit,
k. Remove the starting motor cables. Remove the
starting motor.
I. Disconnect the wires from the alternator or
generator. Disconnect the ignition primary wire
at the ignition coil.
D
N O T E : ON E N G I N E S E Q U I P P E D W I T H E X HAUST EMISSION CONTROL, R E M O V E T H E
A I R PUMP, A I R D I S T R I B U T I O N MANIFOLD, AND ANTI-BACKFIRE (DIVERTER)
VALVE. S E E SECTION F l FOR PROCEDURE.
m. Disconnect the oil pressure and temperature
sending unit wires at the units.
n. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust
manifold by removing the stud nuts.
o. Disconnect the spark plug cables at the plugs
and remove the cable bracket from the rocker arm
cover stud.
p. Remove the rocker arm cover by removing the
attaching stud nuts.
q. Attach a lifting bracket to the engine using
existing head bolt locations. Be sure the bolts
selected will hold the engine with the weight
balanced. Attach lifting bracket to a boom hoist,
or other lifting device, and take up all slack,
r. Remove the two nuts and bolts from each front
engine support. Disconnect the engine ground strap.
Remove the engine supports. Lower the engine
slightly to permit access to the two top bolts on
the flywheel housing.
s. Remove the bolts which attach the flywheel
housing to the engine.
t . Pull the engine forward, or roll the vehicle backwards, until the clutch clears the flywheel housing.
Lift the engine from the vehicle.
D-6. E N G I N E D I S A S S E M B L Y
Engine disassembly is presented in the sequence
to be followed when the engine is to be completely
overhauled after removal from the vehicle. Some
of the operations of the procedure are also applicable separately with the engine in the vehicle,
provided that wherever necessary the part of the
engine to be worked on is first made accessible by
removal of engine accessories or other parts.
When the disassembly operations are performed
with the engine out of the vehicle, it is assumed,
in this procedure, that all of the accessories have
been removed prior to starting the disassembly
and the oil has been drained.
In addition to the instructions covering operations
for disassembling the engine out of the vehicle,
special instructions are given to cover different
operations required when disassembly is done with
the engine installed.
During disassembly operations, the engine should
be mounted in a suitable engine repair stand. Where
practicable, modify or adapt an existing repair
stand as necessary to accommodate the engine. If
an engine repair stand is not used, take care to
perform disassembly operations in a manner that
will protect personnel against an accident and the
engine and its parts against damage.
N O T E : If the engine is being disassembled because
of possible valve failure, check the valve tappet
clearance before disassembly. Improper valve
clearance could be the possible cause of valve
failure, indicating a need for more frequent valve
checks and adjustments.
41
D
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
D-7. Remove Water P u m p
Remove the bolts and lockwashers that attach the
water pump to the cylinder block. Remove the
water pump.
of the cylinder head, first remove the hose and
clamp from the valve (Fig. D-32), then using a
wrench carefully unscrew the valve from the
elbow.
D-8. Remove Exhaust Manifold
Remove the five nuts from the manifold studs.
Pull the manifold off the mounting studs. Remove
the center and two end gaskets from the cylinder
block. See Section F l for exhaust emission controlled engines.
D-l6. Remove Rooker A r m Assemblies
The rocker arm cover was previously removed as
a step of the engine removal (Par. D-5).
Remove the nuts from the rocker arm shaft support
studs, and lift the rocker arm assembly off the
studs. Lift the intake valve push rods out of the
cylinder block.
D-9. Remove O i l Filler T u b e
Loop a piece of wire several times around the tube
below the top and make a loop through which a
pry bar may be used to pry over the top of the
engine water outlet fitting. Pull on the tube,
tapping it just above where it enters the crankcase.
D-10. Remove Water Outlet Fitting
Remove the nuts and lockwashers that attach the
water outlet fitting to the cylinder head. Lift the
outlet fitting from the cylinder head.
D-11. Remove Thermostat
With the water outlet fitting removed, the thermostat can be lifted from the water outlet elbow on
the cylinder head.
D-17. Remove Cylinder Head
a. Removal.
Disconnect the oil line from the flared tube connector and remove the rocker arm attaching stud
nuts, and rocker arm shaft assembly if not previously removed. Two end head bolts cannot be
removed until the rocker arm shaft is removed.
Remove the cylinder head bolts. There is one
cylinder head bolt located below the carburetor
mounting, inside the intake manifold, that must
not be overlooked.
Carefully lift the cylinder head off the block.
Remove the valve push rods and the valve lifters.
D-12. Remove Crankshaft Pulley
Remove the crankshaft nut. Install a puller and pull
the pulley from the crankshaft.
D-13. Remove Distributor
a. Remove spark plug cables from the distributor
cap, noting the order in which they are assembled
to ensure correct reassembly. No. 1 spark plug
terminal is in the 5 o'clock position. Starting with
this tower the cables are installed in a counterclockwise direction in 1-3-4-2 firing order.
b. Remove the primary lead from the terminal
post at the side of the distributor.
c. Remove the screw holding the distributor to
the crankcase and lift the assembly from the engine.
D-14. Remove O i l P u m p
The oil pump is located externally on the left side
of the engine. I f only the oil pump is being removed
with the engine in the vehicle, set No. 1 piston at
T D C for reference for reinstalling the oil pump
without greatly disturbing the ignition timing.
First remove the distributor cover and note the
position of the distributor rotor.
If the distributor is already removed, sight through
the distributor hole before removing the oil pump.
The slot should be near vertical. Remove the
capscrews and lockwashers attaching the oil pump
to the cylinder block. Carefully slide the oil pump
and its drive shaft out of the cylinder block.
D-1S. Remove Crankcase Ventilation Valve
To remove the crankcase ventilation valve from
the elbow fitting screwed into the inlet manifold
42
FIG. D-3—REMOVING R I D G E WITH
REAMER
Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket,
b. Disassembly.
Disassemble the parts of the cylinder head as
follows: With a spring compressor tool remove the
two-piece locks recessed in the valve spring retainers. Pull the O-ring, valve spring, and valve out
of the cylinder head. Identify the valves for return
to the same guides from which they are removed.
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
F I G . D-4—F4-134
ENGINE
1— Dowel Bolt
2— Bolt
3— Flywheel R i n g Gear
4— Flywheel
5—Clutch Pilot Bushing
6— Lockwasher
7— Nut
8— Flywheel Housing
9— Cable
10—Engine Plate (Rear)
11—Woodruff K e y
12—Camshaft Thrust Plate
13— Spacer
14— Camshaft Gear
15— Washer
16—Crankshaft Shim (.002 *)
17—Crankshaft Thrust Washer
18—Crankshaft Gear
19— Spacer
20—Oil Slinger
21—Crankshaft Oil Seal
22—Packing R i n g
23—Gear Cover Gasket
24—Gear Cover
25—Pulley
26—Crankshaft Pulley N u t
27—Timing Indicator
28—Engine Support Front Insulator
29—Front Engine Plate
30— Bolt
31—Front Plate Gasket
14251
43
D
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
Note: Check the condition of the rubber O-rings.
Defective O-rings could be the major cause of oil
leakage into cylinders. Always discard and replace
all O-rings removed as only new O-rings should be
installed at reassembly.
D-18. Ream Cylinder Bore Ridges
To prevent breaking the piston lands, the ridge
at the top of each cylinder bore must be removed
first. To remove this ridge, use a cylinder ridge
reamer, as shown in Fig. D-3 following the instructions furnished by the reamer manufacturer. Use
care not to cut below the top of the upper ring
travel in the bore. Keep each piston top covered
with an oil-soaked cloth to prevent cuttings from
falling into the cylinder.
Note: This operation should be performed at this
time before the engine is rotated for the sequence
steps following.
FIG. D-5—PULLING TIMING GEARS
1— Puller W-172
2— Camshaft Gear
D-19. Remove O i l P a n
Rotate the engine to the upside down position.
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach
the oil pan to the cylinder block. Remove the oil
pan and gasket. Discard the gasket.
D-20.
Remove Piston and Connecting
Rod Assemblies
Remove the stamped locking nuts from the lower
end of each connecting rod bearing bolt. Remove
the connecting rod nuts. Remove the bearing cap
evenly. Push the connecting rod and piston assembly out of the cylinder block with the handle
end of a hammer until the piston rings are free from
the cylinder bore.
Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly
from the top of the cylinder block. Reassemble the
connecting rod bearing cap with the bearings in
place in the rod from which it was removed. Rotate
the crankshaft and follow the same procedure until
all the piston and connecting rod assemblies are
removed.
Pistons and connecting rod assemblies may be
removed for repair with the engine in the vehicle
after draining the cooling system, removing the
oil pan and the cylinder head, and reaming the
ridges as previously described.
D-21. Remove T i m i n g G e a r Cover
Remove the bolts, nuts, and lockwashers, that attach the timing gear cover to the engine. Remove
the cover, timing pointer, and cover gasket. Discard the gasket. Remove the crankshaft oil seal
from the timing gear cover and discard the seal.
Remove the oil slinger and spacer from the crankshaft.
D-22. Remove T i m i n g Gears
Use puller W-172 for pulling both the crankshaft
and the camshaft gears. With the threaded capscrews supplied, adapt the puller to the crankshaft
44
gear and pull the gear. With the special hook-type
puller bolts that fit behind the camshaft gear
flange, pull the camshaft gear. Remove the Woodruff Keys.
D-23. Remove Front E n d Plate
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach the
front end plate to the cylinder block. Remove the
front end plate and gasket. Discard the gasket.
D-24. Remove C l u t c h
Remove four bolts and lockwashers diagonally
opposite that attach the clutch assembly to the
flywheel, leaving two opposed bolts to be loosened
alternately until the clutch spring pressure is relieved. Then, support the clutch assembly with
one hand while removing the two remaining bolts.
For information on disassembly, inspection, repair
and assembly of the clutch refer to Section I . Instructions for removing the clutch when the engine
is in the vehicle are also given in Section I .
D-25. Remove Flywheel
The flywheel is attached to the crankshaft with
two tapered dowel bolts and four special bolts.
Remove these attaching parts. Use a pry bar between the flywheel and the back of the engine and
carefully loosen the flywheel from the crankshaft.
If the flywheel is to be removed with the engine
in the vehicle, the transmission and clutch must
first be removed as detailed in Section I .
D-26. Remove Crankshaft
Slide the crankshaft thrust washer and all end-play
adjusting shims off the front end of the crankshaft.
Pull the two pieces of rear main bearing cap packing
out of position between the side of the bearing cap
and the cylinder block.
Note the marks on the bearing caps and cylinder
block for bearing number and position.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Remove the screws and lockwashers that attach
the main bearing caps to the cylinder block. Use
a lifting bar beneath the ends of each bearing cap.
Be careful not to exert too much pressure to cause
damage to the cap or dowels and pry the caps free.
C A U T I O N : If main bearing caps are not removed
carefully by raising both sides of each cap evenly
until free of the dowels, the dowels may be bent.
A bent main bearing cap dowel can cause misalignment of the cap and resultant rapid bearing wear
necessitating replacement. Therefore, remove each
main bearing cap carefully. If there is reason to
believe any of the dowels have been bent during
the bearing cap removal, remove them and install
new dowels as detailed in Par. D-34c.
Remove the upper half of the rear main bearing
oil seal from the cylinder block and the lower half
from the oil seal groove in the rear main bearing
cap. Install the main bearing caps and bearings on
the cylinder block in their original positions.
Note; Removal of the crankshaft may be accomplished only with the engine out of the vehicle.
D-27. Remove Exhaust Valves and Springs
Access to the valve chamber is obtained by removing the attaching parts and the valve spring
cover and gasket from the cylinder block. Use cloths
to block off the three holes in the exhaust valve
chamber to prevent the valve retaining locks falling
into the crankcase, should they be accidentally
dropped.
With a valve / spring compressor, compress the
valve springs on those valves which are in the
closed position (valve seated against cylinder
block). Remove the exhaust valve spring retainer
locks, the exhaust valve spring retainer, and the
exhaust valve spring. Close the other valves by
rotating the camshaft and repeat the above operation for the other valves in the same manner. Lift
out all the exhaust valves and tag or place them in
a rack to indicate the location where each was removed from the cylinder block. I f a valve sticks in
the guide and cannot be easily lifted out, pull the
valve upward as far as possible and remove the
spring. Lower the valve and remove any carbon
deposits from the valve stem. This will permit removal of the valve.
For intake valve and spring removal, see Par. D-l7.
D-28. Remove C a m s h a f t
a. Push the intake and exhaust valve tappets into
the cylinder block as far as possible so the ends of
the tappets are not in contact with the camshaft.
b. Secure each tappet in the raised position by installing a common clip-type clothes pin on the
shank of each tappet or tie them up in the valve
chamber.
c. Remove the camshaft thrust plate attaching
screws. Remove the camshaft thrust plate and
spacer.
d. Pull the camshaft forward out of the cylinder
block using care to prevent damage to the camshaft bearing surfaces.
D
D-29. Remove Valve Tappets
Remove the intake and exhaust valve tappets from
the bottom or crankshaft side of the cylinder block
after the camshaft has been removed. Tag each
tappet or place them in a marked rack so they may
be reassembled in their original positions.
D-30. Remove Oil Gallery Plugs
Remove the plug at each end of the oil gallery in
the cylinder block. This operation is only applicable
when the engine is out of the vehicle and will allow
access to the oil gallery so it may be cleaned.
D-31. E N G I N E I N S P E C T I O N AND R E P A I R
The inspection and repair procedures detailed herein are recommended to be followed when a complete engine overhaul is to be made with the engine
out of the vehicle. These instructions can generally
be applied individually with the engine in the
vehicle. Wherever the procedure differs due to
the engine being in the vehicle, the necessary
special instructions are provided. Inspection and
repair instructions are included to cover the
cylinder block, cylinder head, crankshaft and
bearings, connecting rods and bearings, oil pump,
valves and tappets, pistons and rings, flywheel,
timing gears, and the camshaft and bearings. I n
addition, fitting operations for these engine components are included.
Important: Before the inspection and repair procedures listed below are begun, the engine serial
number must be checked for the presence of code
letters denoting undersize bearings or oversize
pistons. Refer to Par. D-2.
D-32. Cylinder Block
The cylinder block must be thoroughly cleaned,
inspected and repaired as detailed in the following
paragraphs.
D-33. Cleaning
The cylinder block may be steam cleaned or cleaned
with a suitable solvent. A scraper is recommended
to remove hard deposits, except on highly finished
surfaces. Special attention must be directed to the
cleaning of the oil passages, valve chamber, crankcase, and cylinder walls to remove all sludge, dirt
and carbon deposits. After cleaning, use air pressure
to dry the block thoroughly.
D-34. Inspection
Examine the cylinder block for minute cracks and
fractures. Rusted valve springs or evidence of rust
in the valve chamber or the cylinder walls is a good
indication of a possible crack in the block,
a. Examine all machined surfaces of the cylinder
block for burrs and scores. Check for cylinder block
distortion by placing a straight edge along the
length of the cylinder head surface of the block.
With a feeler gauge, check for clearance between
the straight edge and the block, particularly between adjacent cylinders. Maximum permissible
out of line for service is .010" [0,254 mm.] over the
full length of the block.
45
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
F I G . D-6—F4-134
ENGINE
1— Rocker Arm Shaft and Plug
2— Rocker Shaft Lock Screw
3— Cylinder Head Bolt
4— Nut
5—Left Rocker Arm
6— Rocker Shaft Support Stud
7— Nut
8— Rocker Arm Shaft Spring
9— Right Rocker Arm
10—Nut
11— Rocker Arm Cover Stud
12—Plain Washer
13—Rocker A r m Shaft Bracket
14— Intake Valve Tappet Adjusting
Screw
15—Intake Valve Spring Retainer
Lock
16—Oil Seal
17—Intake Valve Spring Retainer
18— Intake Valve Spring
19— Flared Tube Connector
20— Pipe Plug H'
2 1 — Pipe Plug W
22—Cylinder Head
23— Intake Valve Push Rod
24—Intake Valve Guide
25—Intake Valve
26— Piston
27—Connecting Rod
28—Connecting Rod Cap Bolt
29—Connecting Rod Bearing Set
30— Exhaust Valve
3 1 —Exhaust Valve Guide
32—Cylinder Block
33—Cylinder Block Drain Lock
34—Tappet Adjusting Screw
35—Exhaust Valve Tappet
36— Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal
37—Crankshaft Bearing Dowel
38— Front Bearing Set
39— Center Bearing Set
40— Rear Bearing Set
41—Bolt
42— Dowel
43— Crankshaft
44—Rear Bearing Cap Packing
45—Rear Main Bearing Cap
4 6—Lockwasher
47— Bolt
48—Lock Nut
49— Connecting Rod C a p Nut
50— Center Main Bearing Cap
51—Front Main Bearing Cap
52—Screw and Lockwasher
53— Screw and Lockwasher
54— Oil Pump
55— Gasket
56— Crankshaft Shim
57— Crankshaft Thrust Washer
58— Gasket
59— Stud
60— Exhaust Valve Spring Cover
61— Gasket
62—Valve Spring Retainer Lower
Lock
63— Roto-Cap
64— Exhaust Valve Spring
65— Camshaft Front Bushing
66— Timing Gear Oil Jet
67— Camshaft
68— Camshaft Thrust Plate
69— Spacer
70— Bolt and Lockwasher
71— Thermostat
72— Gasket
73— Water Outlet Fitting
74— Screw and Lockwasher
10675
Inspect tapped openings. Repair any damaged
threads. Replace any broken studs.
b. Check the cylinder bores for out-of-round and
taper to determine if the bores require honing or
reboring. For detail information refer to Par. D-35.
c. I f there is any reason to believe that any of the
main bearing cap dowels have been bent during
bearing cap removal, install new ones. The dowels
46
must fit tightly to ensure cap alignment and as they
are hardened they may be difficult to grip and remove. To simplify the operation, file a notch on
each side of the dowel to accommodate a pair of
diagonal cutters. Using a piece of bar stock under
the diagonals for leverage, work the dowel out. Before installing a new dowel in the cylinder block,
make sure the dowel hole is clean. Start the dowel
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
straight in the hole, then tap the dowel lightly
with a hammer until it bottoms.
d . When installing bearing eaps, be sure to tighten
the bolts evenly in each cap to pull it into place
without bending the dowels or distorting the
bearing cap.
e. Other parts of the block which require inspection and possible repair, but which are directly
related to other engine components (such as
tappets, pistons, camshaft, valves, crankshaft, and
oil pump) are covered later in this section.
D-35. Cylinder Bores
The cylinder bores may be reconditioned by honing
or reboring. Use oil-soaked rags to protect crankshaft journals and other engine parts from abrasive
dust during all reconditioning operations.
Both honing and reboring of the cylinders must be
done carefully to fit the pistons and to obtain
specified clearances. If reboring of the cylinder
bores is not required but the walls are glazed, use
a finishing hone to remove the glaze. Reboring
the cylinders must not be attempted unless adequate facilities and experienced service technicians
are available. The amount of material to be removed is determined from the original diameter
of the cylinder bores (3.125" to 3.127") [79,375 a
79,426 mm.] plus the amount of oversize in diameter
of the oversize pistons to be fitted. Pistons are
available in the following oversizes.
.010" [0,254 mm.]
.030" [0,762 mm.]
.020" [0,508 mm.]
.040" [1,016 mm.}
The largest cylinder bore will determine the oversize to which all cylinders must be rebored, since
the size and weight of all pistons must be uniform
to maintain proper engine balance. The maximum
rebore should not exceed .040" [1,016 mm.] from
standard.
Measure the cylinder diameters by making measurements both parallel to and at right angles to
crankshaft over entire piston travel and at bottom
of cylinder. Proceed as follows:
a. If bores are scored; if out-of-round exceeds .005 "
[0,127 mm.]; if diameters differ more than .005";
or if taper exceeds .005 " on diameter, it is generally
recommended that cylinders be reconditioned by
reboring and honing to the next oversize using new
pistons of the proper size.
Note: If reboring is performed, allow .0015"
[0,0381 mm.] for final honing.
All cylinder bore diameters must be within .002 "
[0,0508 mm.] after reconditioning.
b. If bore measurements are within the above
limits, but indicate hollows or waviness, cylinders
should be honed with 250 grit stone hone. Pump
hone up and down in cylinder while it is rotating
to produce a satin-finish, diamond cross-hatched
pattern approximately 30° with horizontal. Hone
only enough to correct waviness.
c. If cylinder bore correction is unnecessary, break
the glaze on cylinder walls with a 250 grit stone
hone or with a suitable deglazing tool. Operate the
D
hone or deglazer to obtain diamond cross-hatched
pattern previously mentioned.
d . Regardless of type of correction on cylinder
walls, wash out bores thoroughly afterwards and
apply a light coat of engine oil. I f cylinders have
been rebored or honed heavily, measure cylinder
diameters again to assure proper selection of piston
size.
D-36. Pistons, Rings, and Connecting Rods
Pistons are each fitted with three rings, two compression rings and one oil control ring. The pistons
have an extra groove above the top ring which
acts as a heat dam or insulating groove to protect
against sealing of the top ring in the ring groove
with hard carbon. The piston pin is secured by
the lock screw.
The pistons and connecting rods were removed from
the engine as assemblies. I f cylinders were rebored,
new oversized pistons and rings will have to be installed.
Disassemble the pistons and rods. Remove the
two compression rings, the oil control ring, and
the oil control ring expander from each piston.
Do not remove the bolts from the lower end of the
connecting rods unless the bolts are damaged.
Clamp each connecting rod and piston assembly
in a padded bench vise and remove the piston pin
lock screw and lockwasher. Press the piston pin
out of the piston and connecting rod. Clean all
carbon, gum, and lacquer deposits from both the
inner and outer surfaces of each piston, connecting
rod, and piston pin. Use a ring groove cleaner or a
broken ring filed to a sharp square edge to clean
the carbon from the piston ring grooves and the
insulator groove. Use care not to scrape metal from
the sides of the grooves or make burrs on ring
groove surfaces. Run a length of wire through the
oil spray hole near the lower end of the connecting
rod to clear the hole of hardened oil deposits or
foreign matter. Carefully inspect the pistons and
replace any that are broken or cracked. Replace
pistons if any of the ring lands are chipped, broken,
or rounded on the edges; or if the piston is scored,
scratched, or burned so seriously that the imperfections cannot be removed with a hand honing stone
or crocus cloth.
Replace the pistons as follows:
a. After cylinder bores have been carefully checked
for out-of-round and taper (Par. D-35), check fit
of each piston to cylinder bore with block and
pistons clean and dry and at approximately 70 °F.
[21°C] by using Piston Fitting Gauge And Scale
Tool No. C-690 as shown in Fig. D-7. Use a .003"
[0,0762 mm.] thickness gauge %" [19 mm.] wide.
The piston is fitted upside down in the block to
facilitate the operation. The gauge must extend the
full length of the piston on the thrust side (opposite
side from slot in piston skirt). Scale should register
5 to 10 pounds [2,3 a 4,5 kg.] pull to remove the
thickness gauge from between cylinder wall and
piston. Excessive pull indicates need for a slightly
smaller piston or additional honing of cylinder. Insufficient pull indicates need for fitting a larger
piston.
47
D
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
FIG. D-7—PISTON
FIG. D-9—PISTON P I N F I T T I N G
FITTING
b. Check and if necessary correct connecting rod
alignment using a connecting rod aligning fixture,
such as the one shown in Fig. D-8, in accordance
with the instructions furnished with the fixture.
c. Check the piston pin fit. The piston pins are
fitted with a clearance of .0001" to .0003" [0,0025
a 0,0076 mm.] which approximates a light thumb
push fit at room temperature. See Fig. D-9. The
piston pins are anchored in the rods with lock
screws. Installation of oversize pins in this engine
is not recommended as experience has shown that
should a pin be worn sufficiently to require replacement, the piston should also be replaced.
Clamp the connecting rod in a vise using jaw shields
of soft metal or two pieces of hardwood, one on
each side of the rod and positioned approximately
3" [76 mm.] from the piston pin end. Start
, .. .
| 10278 j
FIG. D-8—CHECKING CONNECTING ROD
ALIGNMENT
1 —Feeler Gauge
48
the piston pin in the piston with the lock
screw groove facing down. Assemble piston to
connecting rod with the piston skirt T-slot on
2—Fixture
FIG. D-10—CONNECTING ROD AND
1—Oil Spray Hole
2— Piston Skirt T-slot
3— Relative Position of Camshaft
PISTON
D
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
FIG. D - l l — C H E C K I N G PISTON AND
CONNECTING ROD ALIGNMENT
1— Feeler Gauge
2— Fixture
F I G . D-13—PISTON R I N G GAP
the opposite side from the oil spray hole in the
bearing end of the connecting rod. See Fig. D-10.
Install the piston pin lock screw and torque 35 to
41 lb-ft. [4,8 a 5,7 kg-m.].
d . Place piston and rod assembly in a connecting
rod aligning fixture and check alignment of the
assembly as shown in Fig. D - l l . Follow instructions
furnished with the fixture.
e. Using a feeler gauge and new piston rings, check
the width of the two compression ring grooves and
the oil ring groove. Replace the piston if the widths
of the grooves are not with the limits given in
the specifications.
Insert feeler gauge between ring and piston to back
of groove. Replace piston if ring grooves are not
within allowable tolerances. I f a feeler gauge larger
FIG. D-l 2—CHECKING PISTON
SIDE CLEARANCE
1 — Feeler Gauge
2— Piston Ring
RING
than .006" [0,152 mm.] can be inserted J^ " [1,6
mm.] between piston and upper compression ring,
groove is worn excessively bell-mouthed and
piston should be replaced.
f. Check piston ring end gap by placing compression ring in cylinder bore below ring travel using
head of an inverted piston as a plunger to push
ring in squarely. E n d gap must be as shown in
Par. D-37 for all rings. If less, file ends to obtain
minimum gap. With cylinders bored to an exact
ring oversize of +.020", +.030", or +.040" [0,5080,762-1,016 mm.] the proper end clearance as
given in Par. D-37 will result. If end gaps are
not within the limits given in Par. D-3 7, rings are
of the wrong size or were incorrectly filed for fitting.
g . Install a new ring set using either production
replacement rings or service type oil control rings.
Production type replacement piston rings are the
same as the original factory-installed rings while
service oil control ring sets have different components, notably the oil ring expander. Follow
instructions of manufacturer for proper installation.
Use a piston ring expander to install rings on
pistons. Do not expand rings more than necessary
to install, also be careful not to burr the piston
with ends of rings. Install bottom (oil) ring first,
center ring second, and top ring last.
The width of the compression rings is
[2,38
mm.] and that of the oil control ring is f^" [4,78
mm.]. While the compression rings are of the same
size, they are different in construction and must
not be interchanged. Install these rings as shown
in Fig. D-14. The upper compression ring has an
inside beveled edge which must be installed toward
the piston top. The face of the lower compression
ring is tapered approximately .001" [0,025 mm.].
The letters T or T O P on the upper edge indicate
how the ring is to be installed.
6
49
D
H U R R I C A N E F4 ENGINE
thrust of the crankshaft. A flanged section on the
rear of the crankshaft acts as an oil slinger. While
the crankshaft is out of the engine, handle it carefully to prevent damage to the connecting rod
crankpins and the main bearing journals. Refer
to Fig. D-l5.
D-39. C r a n k s h a f t I n s p e c t i o n a n d R e p a i r
10444
F I G . D-14—PISTON R I N G
D-37.
INSTALLATION
Piston Ring Application C h a r t
Cylinder Bora
Ovtrsiie
Correct
Ring Size
Ring Gap
Fitting
End Gap
Std. te .009'
[•0,228 mm.]
Std.
None
.007' to .045'
[0,1778 a 1.1430 mm.]
.010* to .019'
[0,254 a 0,4826 mm.)
-.020'
File fit
.007' to .017'
[0,1778 a 0,4318 mm.]
.020' to .024'
[0,508 a 0,6096 mm.]
-.020'
None
.007' to .029*
[0,1778 a 0,7366 mm.]
.025' to .029'
[0,635 a 0,7366 mm.]
-.030'
File fit
.007' to .017*
.030' to .034*
[0,762 a 0,8636 mm.]
-.030'
None
.007'to .029'
.038'to .039'
[0,8890 a 0,9908 mm.]
-.040*
File fit
.007' to .017'
.040' [1,016 mm.]
-.040*
None
.007' to .017'
D-38.
Crankshaft
The crankshaft is machined from a heat-treated
carbon steel forging and is carefully balanced both
dynamically and statically. The crankshaft is
supported by three replaceable main bearings. The
front main bearing is flanged to take the end
50
Clean out the drilled oil passages in the crankshaft
journals with a small rifle brush making sure to
get rid of all sludge or gum deposits. Blow out
the passages with compressed air after cleaning.
Clean the crankshaft thoroughly with a suitable
cleaning solvent. Inspect the crankshaft for cracks,
alignment, and condition of the crankpins and the
main bearing journals. Use magnafuix equipment,
if available, to check for cracks or structural flaws.
Cracks, misalignment, and scored or worn journals
and crankpins necessitate crankshaft repair or
replacement.
Check crankshaft counterweights to be sure they
are not loose.
D-40. C h e c k i n g C r a n k s h a f t A l i g n m e n t
To check alignment, mount the crankshaft in the
cylinder block with the front and rear bearings in
place but with the intermediate bearing removed.
With a dial indicator mounted on the crankcase
and the indicator button resting on the intermediate bearing journal, slowly rotate the crankshaft and note the reading on the indicator dial.
Install the intermediate bearing and remove first
the front and then the rear bearings to repeat the
operation with the dial indicator, checking the
front and rear bearing journals. The maximum
allowable run-out is .002" [0,0508 mm.].
D-41.
Checking M a i n Bearing Journals
An ordinary 3" [7,62 cm.] micrometer may be used.
The standard journal diameter is 2.334" to 2.333"
-Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
[5,928 a 5,926 cm.] for all main bearings. Allowable
taper or out-of-round of the journals is .001"
[0,0254 mm.].
D-42. Checking Connecting Rod Crankpins
Check the crankpin diameters with a micrometer
to ensure that they are not out-of-round or tapered
more than .001" [0,0254 mm.] The standard crankpin diameter is 1.9383* to 1.9375" [4,9233 a 4,9213
cm.].
D-43. Crankshaft Main Bearings
The crankshaft rotates on three main bearings
with a running clearance of .0003" to .0029"
[0,0076 a 0,0736 mm.].
These bearings are positioned and prevented from
rotating in their supports in the cylinder block by
dowel pins. Dowel pins are used in both the center
and the rear bearing caps. No dowel pins are used
in the front bearing cap because the bearing has
a flange. The front main bearing takes the end
thrust of the crankshaft. The main bearings are
of premium type which provides long bearing life.
They are replaceable and when correctly installed,
provide proper clearance without filing, boring,
scraping, or shimming. Crankshaft bearings can
be removed from this engine only with the engine
out of the vehicle. Crankshaft bearings must be
replaced as a complete set of three bearings, each
bearing consisting of two halves. Main bearings
are available in the standard size and the following
undersizes:
.001" [0,025mm.]
.012" [0,305 mm.]
.002" [0,051mm.]
.020" [0,508 mm.]
.010" [0,254mm.]
.030" [0,762 mm.]
The .001" and .002" undersize main bearings are
for use with standard size crankshafts having
slightly worn journals. The .010", .020", and .030"
undersize bearings are for use with undersize
crankshafts in those sizes. The .012" undersize
bearings are for use with .010" undersize crankshafts having slightly worn journals. Bearing sizes
are rubber stamped on the reverse side of each
bearing half.
D-44. Crankshaft Main Bearing Inspection
The crankshaft journals must be carefully inspected
as detailed previously in Par. D-41. Worn journals
will require undersize bearings. Scored, flaked, or
worn bearings must be replaced. Measure the main
bearing bores in the cylinder block using a telescope
gauge and micrometer. Measure the bores at right
angles to the split line and at 45° to the split line.
The bores should not be over .001" [0,0254 mm.]
out-of-round or .001" in taper from end to end.
Also, the bores should not be more then .001"
oversize, considering the average diameter of the
bore.
D-45.
Fitting Crankshaft Main Bearings
Using Plastigage
After wiping and carefully inspecting the bearing
E>
bore, install the proper bearing. See that the oil
hole in the bearing upper half registers properly
with the oil hole in the block, and that the bearing
lock fits properly in the notch in the block. Install
the crankshaft if replacing bearings with the engine
out of the vehicle. The desired running fit (difference between the diameter of the crankshaft
journal and the inside diameter of the fitted bearing) for a main bearing is .0003" to .0029" [0,0076
a 0,0736 mm.]. With a dimension in excess of this
standard running fit, a satisfactory bearing replacement cannot be made and it will be necessary to
regrind the crankshaft. Install the bearing lower
half and the bearing cap and draw the nuts down
equally and only slightly tight. Rotate the crankshaft by hand to be sure it turns freely without
drag. Pull the nuts tighter, first one then the other,
a little at a time, intermittently rotating the crankshaft by hand until the recommended torque of
35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.] is reached. If the
bearings are of the correct size, and lubricated with
light oil before installation, the crankshaft should
turn freely in the bearings. If the crankshaft cannot
be turned, a larger bearing is required. If there is no
binding or tightness, it is still necessary to check
clearance to guard against too loose a fit. Never file
either the bearing cap or the bearing to compensate
for too much clearance. Do not use shims under a
bearing cap or behind a bearing shell. Do not run a
new bearing half with a worn bearing half. The use
of "Plastigage" of the proper size to measure .001"
[0,025 mm.] clearance is recommended for checking crankshaft main bearing clearance. The method
of checking clearance is as follows:
a . Remove the bearing cap and carefully wipe
all oil from the bearing and the journal.
b. L a y a piece of "Plastigage" y%" [3 mm.]
shorter than the width of the bearing across the
journal (lengthwise of the crankshaft).
c. Install the bearing and cap and tighten first
one nut, then the other, a little at a time to the
specified torque. As the bearing tightens down
around the journal, the "Plastigage" flattens to a
width that indicates the bearing clearance.
d. Remove the cap and measure the width of
the flattened "Plastigage," using the scale printed
on the edge of the envelope. The proper size "Plastigage" will accurately measure clearance down to
.001".
e. I f the flattened "Plastigage" tapers toward
the middle, or toward the end, or both ends, there
is a difference in clearance, indicating a taper, a
low spot, or other irregularity of the bearing or
journal.
D-46.
Fitting Crankshaft Main Bearings
Using S h i m Stock
Thin feeler or shim stock may be used instead of
"Plastigage" to check bearing clearances. The
method is simple, but care must be taken to protect
the bearing metal surface from injury by too much
pressure against the feeler stock,
a. Cut a piece of .001" [0,025 mm.] thick, by
Yl [12,7 mm.] wide, feeler stock }4" [3 mm.]
shorter than the width of the bearing. Coat this
51
D
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
10442
FIG. D-l6—SHIM STOCK I N POSITION ON
MAIN BEARING
1—0.001" Feeler Stock H ' Wide
feeler stock with light engine oil and lay it on the
bearing in the cap, as shown in Fig. D-16. With the
shim in this position, install the bearing and cap
on the crankshaft.
b. Tighten the bearing cap nuts, first one and
then the other, a little at a time to 35 to 45 lb-ft.
torque [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.].
c . Turn the crankshaft by hand not more than
one inch in either direction.
C a u t i o n : Turning the crankshaft more may imbed
the shim stock in the bearing, giving a false indication of fit and damaging the bearing.
If the bearing clearance is correct, the piece of .001"
feeler stock should produce a light to heavy drag.
If there is little or no drag the bearing fit is too
loose. If the crankshaft will not turn there is not
enough clearance. In either case another bearing
must be selected to provide the proper fit.
d. After the bearing has been correctly fitted,
remove the shim stock, wipe the bearing and
journal carefully and apply clean engine oil to the
surfaces. Replace the cap and tighten the nuts
first one, then the other, a little at a time, to the
prescribed torque. The crankshaft should now turn
freely without drag.
FIG. D-l 7—CONNECTING ROD OFFSET
52
D-47. Connecting Rod Bearings
The connecting rod bearings, like the crankshaft
main bearings, are of the replaceable type. When
correctly installed, the bearings provide proper
clearance without filing, boring, scraping, or
shimming.
Main bearings with maximum wearing surfaces
are obtained through the use of offset connecting
rods. When the rods are installed, the offset "A"
in Fig. D-l7 is placed away from the nearest main
bearing "B".
The oil spray hole should be on the "follow" side
or away from the camshaft, toward the right side
of the vehicle. Because of the offset and oil spray
hole, No. 1 and 2 or No. 3 and 4 connecting rods
cannot be interchanged for if they are reversed,
the oil spray hole will be on the wrong side. No. 1
and 3 or No. 2 and 4 can be interchanged.
Connecting rod bearings should be replaced as a
complete set. Each bearing consists of two halves.
Connecting rod bearing sets are available in standard size and the following undersize:
.001" [0,025 mm.]
.012" [0,305 mm.]
.002" [0,051 mm.]
.020" [0,508 mm.]
.010" [0,254 mm.]
.030" [0,762 mm.]
The .001" and .002" undersize bearings are for use
with standard size crankshafts having slightly
worn crankpins that do not require grinding. The
.012" undersize bearings are for use with slightly
worn crankshafts that have been previously ground
for .010" undersize bearings.
Should it be necessary to replace the bearings due
to wear, replacement of piston rings and piston
pins is also recommended.
N O T E : Should it be necessary to replace a scored
or burned No. 1 connecting rod bearing, see Par.
D-92 regarding timing gear oil jet.
D-48. Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
The bearing fits may be roughly checked by shaking
the connecting rod by hand, prior to removal of
the bearing cap, to determine if it is loose on the
crankshaft. The crankpins must be carefully inspected as detailed previously in Par. D-41. Worn
crankpins will require undersize bearings. Scored,
flaked, or worn bearings must be replaced.
D-49. Installing Connecting Rod Bearings
New bearings must be installed so that the oil
spray hole in the upper bearing half aligns with
the oil spray hole in the connecting rod. Each
bearing cap must be installed to seat evenly on the
connecting rod from which it was removed, and in
the same position. After wiping and carefully inspecting the bearing bore in the connecting rod,
install the proper bearing. Never file either the
bearing cap or the bearing to compensate for too
much clearance. Do not use shims under a bearing
cap or behind a bearing shell. Do not run a new
bearing half with a worn half.
The desired running fit (difference between the
diameter of the crankpin and the inside diameter
of the fitted bearing) for a connecting rod bearing
is .0003" to .0025" [0,0076 a 0,0635 mm.]. With a
dimension in excess of this standard running fit, a
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
D
satisfactory bearing replacement cannot be made
and it will be necessary to regrind the crankshaft.
Install the bearing lower half and the connecting
rod cap and draw the cap bolt nuts down equally
and only slightly tight. Move the connecting rod
endwise, one way or the other, on the crankshaft
to be sure the bearing is not tight. Pull the nuts
tighter, first one then the other, a little at a time,
and keep trying the fit of the rod on the crankshaft
by hand until the recommended torque of 35
to 45 lb-ft. [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.] is reached. I f the
bearings are of the correct size, and have been
properly lubricated with light engine oil before installation, the connecting rod should be easy to
slide back and forth parallel to the crankpin.
If the connecting rod is tight on the crankshaft, a
larger bearing is required. If there is no binding
or tightness, it is still necessary to check clearance
to guard against too loose a fit. The use of "Plastigage" or shim stock of the proper size to measure
.001" [0,025 mm.] clearance is recommended for
checking connecting rod bearing clearances. This
is the same material recommended for checking
crankshaft main bearings and the method of checking is similar. Refer to Par. D-45 or D-46. Connecting rod bearings are fitted to the same clearance as
the main bearings but the torque specified for connecting rod cap bolts is different.
ing surfaces are precision machined in the cylinder
block. The camshaft bearings are pressure lubricated through drilled passages in the crankcase.
E n d thrust of the camshaft is taken by a thrust
plate bolted to the crankcase. The camshaft is
driven by a silent helical-cut tooth timing gear at
the front of the engine. A worm gear, integral with
the camshaft, drives the oil pump and distributor.
The fuel pump is actuated by an eccentric forged
onto the camshaft.
Clean the camshaft thoroughly in cleaning solvent.
Inspect all camshaft bearing surfaces to determine
if they are scored or rough. The cam faces must be
perfectly smooth throughout their contact face
and must not be scored or worn.
D-50. C o n n e c t i n g R o d S i d e P l a y
D-53- C a m s h a f t End Play
E n d play of the camshaft is determined by running
clearance between the rear face of the camshaft
gear and the thrust plate and is established by the
spacer thickness. The standard clearance is .004"
to .007" [0,101 a 0,178 mm.] and can be measured
by a dial indicator. As a general rule this clearance
will change but little through wear or when a new
gear is installed. To predetermine the correct end
float with the gear, spacer, and thrust plate removed, measure the thickness of both the thrust
plate and spacer with a micrometer. The thickness
of the spacer should be approximately .006"
[0,152 mm.] greater than that of the thrust plate.
When this is correct and the parts are assembled
and drawn tightly together by the gear retaining
screw, the end play should come within standard
limits.
Check the connecting rod side play with a feeler
gauge as shown in Fig. D-l8. The side clearance is
.004" to .010" [0,101 a 0,254 mm.].
D-51. Camshaft and Bearings
The camshaft is supported at four points in the
cylinder block. The front is supported in a replaceable, steel-shell, babbit-lined bearing. The
bearing is pressed into place The other three bear-
D-52. C a m s h a f t F r o n t B e a r i n g R e p l a c e m e n t
Use a suitable driver to remove the camshaft front
bearing from the cylinder block. To install a new
bearing, align the oil hole in the bearing with the
bored oil hole in the cylinder block and drive the
bearing in until the front end of the bearing is
flush with the front surface of the cylinder block.
Make sure the oil hole is open and clear. It is not
necessary to line-ream the bearing after installation
because bearings for replacement are precision
reamed to the finished size. Do not stake the
bearing.
D-54. T i m i n g G e a r s a n d C o v e r
FIG. D-18—CONNECTING ROD SIDE
PLAY
The timing gears are mounted at the front of the
engine. Camshaft drive is through helical-cut
timing gears; a steel gear on the crankshaft and a
pressed fiber gear on the camshaft. The gears are
keyed to their respective shafts. The camshaft
driven gear is secured on the front end of the
camshaft by means of a capscrew and a plain
washer. The crankshaft gear is secured on the
front end of the crankshaft by a nut threaded onto
the front end of the crankshaft holding the crankshaft pulley, crankshaft oil slinger, and the crankshaft drive gear spacer. The timing gears are
lubricated through a jet threaded into the crankcase directly above the gear contact and oil supplied
through a drilled passage from the front main
bearing. The timing gears are enclosed by the
sealed timing cover. The oil seal in the cover bears
53
D
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
against the hub of the crankshaft pulley. Timing
gears are accessible for inspection or replacement
with the engine installed in the vehicle after removing the radiator, belt drive pulley, and timing
cover.
Should it be necessary to replace the timing gears,
attention must be given to the end float of both
the camshaft and crankshaft and to the running
clearance of both gears. It is also advisable to
check both the oil jet and oil passage to the crankshaft front bearing to be sure that they are clear.
D-55. Inspection and Repair
Check the general condition of both gears and
inspect for evidence of excessive wear. Replace
excessively worn or damaged gears. Inspect the
cover and replace if bent or damaged. It is recommended that the crankshaft oil seal in the cover
be replaced when the cover is removed to ensure a
good seal around the crankshaft. To replace this
seal with the engine in the vehicle requires removing
the radiator and water pump.
D-56. Valves, Springs, and Guides
The exhaust valves seat on the top of the cylinder
block with the stems extending down through
replaceable valve guides. The exhaust valves are
actuated by the camshaft through exhaust valve
tappets. The exhaust valve springs are assembled
and locked on the lower end of the exhaust valve
stems. The retaining locks are the split type, which
fit in a recess on the valve stems and into the taper
in the valve spring retainers.
Adjustment of exhaust valves is by means of the
adjusting screw threaded into the upper end of the
exhaust valve tappets. An exhaust valve rotator
used as a valve spring retainer is installed on the
lower end of the exhaust valve. This valve rotator,
known as "Roto Cap", is a spring-loaded ball
bearing device. On each lift, or opening stroke of
a valve, the rotator gives the valve a slight positive
clockwise rotation.
The intake valves operate in valve guides in the
cylinder head and are actuated by rocker arms.
The rocker arms are actuated by valve push rods
and the intake valve tappets. The intake valve
springs, the intake valve spring retainers, and the
intake valve spring retainer locks make up the
remainder of the valve operating parts. An intake
valve spring retainer oil seal which encircles the
upper end of the intake valve between the valve
locks and the upper end of the valve spring re
tainer, controls the passage of oil along the valve
stem and guide.
Polish the valve stems with steel wool or crocus
cloth. Visually inspect all valves for warpage,
cracks, or excessive burning and discard if one of
these conditions exists. Replace any worn, pitted,
or corroded valves that cannot be cleaned with a
wire brush. Replace any valves when seats are
pitted, burned, or corroded so badly that they
cannot be cleaned up with a light refacing on a
valve refacing machine.
Replace valves with marks of scoring or abrasion
visible on the stem. Replace any valves with bent
stems which will be apparent when the valve is
mounted in the valve refacing machine.
N o t e : Use only hard-face exhaust
replacement.
valves for
Examine the stems of valves which employ the
ball bearing rotators. Wear marks around the circumference of the stems indicates that the valve is
rotating satisfactorily. Vertical heavy pressure
areas indicate that the valve is not rotating and the
valve spring retainer (Roto Cap) should be replaced
if at fault. Check the diameter of the valve stem
at two or three places along the length of the stem
with a micrometer. The intake valve stem diameter
is .3733" to .3738" [9,482 a 9,495 mm.]. The
exhaust valve stem diameter is .371" to .372"
[9,423 a 9,449 mm.].
N o t e : Exhaust and intake valve springs are
similar in appearance. They must not be interchanged as they have different spring characteristics.
Wash the valve springs thoroughly in solvent.
Visually examine the springs and replace any that
are deformed or obviously damaged. Examine for
corrosion from moisture or acid etching which might
N o t e : When engine trouble indicates defective
valves as a possible source of trouble, also check
all vacuum line connections for possible leaks.
D-57. Inspection of Valves, Springs,
and Guides
Clean the valves on a wire wheel, making sure that
all carbon is removed from the top and the underside of the heads and that all gum and varnish
deposits are removed from the stems.
54
FIG. D-19—TESTING VALVE SPRING
1—Torque Wrench
2— Spring Testing Fixture
3— Valve Spring
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
develop into surface cracks and cause failure.
Measure the over all free length of the springs and
replace any that do not measure to standard:
1%" [35,7 mm.] for intake valve springs and 2j^"
[63,5 mm.] for exhaust valve springs. I f possible,
check each valve spring in a valve spring testing
fixture C-647 or equivalent as shown in Fig. D-l9.
Test each spring when compressed to the two
different spring lengths given (representing valve
closed and valve open spring length). If any spring
fails to register spring tension equal to or greater
than the minimum load limit in pounds specified
for that spring length, replace the spring.
Length
Intake valve spring. . . 1.660" [4,216
1.400" [3,556
Exhaust valve spring. 2.109" [5,356
1.750" [4,445
cm.]
cm.]
cm.]
cm.]
Minimun Load
66 lb. [29,9 kg.]
140 lb. [63,5 kg.]
47 lb. [21,3 kg.]
110 lb. [49,9 kg.]
N o t e : When using a spring checking fixture C-647
or equivalent as shown in Fig. D-l9, it is necessary
to convert the torque wrench reading which is in
pounds-feet to the static pound pressure specified
above according to the instructions furnished with
the wrench. For example, should the torque wrench
reading be 50 lb-ft. and the wrench is two feet long
the static pressure of the spring will be 50 x 2 or
100 lbs.
Clean the valve guides with a standard valve guide
cleaner or a wire brush. Check the valve guides in
the cylinder block. Replace valve guides which are
broken or worn enough to cause excessive valve
stem-to-guide clearance. See Par. D-61.
Standard intake valve clearance is .0007" to .0022"
[0,0178 a 0,0559 mm.] and the exhaust valve
clearance is .0025" to .0045" [0,0635 a 0,1143 mm.].
Excessive clearance between the valve stems and
guides will cause improper seating and burned
valves. When there is a tendency to draw oil vapor
through the guide causing excessive oil consump-
tion, fouled spark plugs, and poor low-speed performance. To check the clearance of the valve stem
to the valve guide, take a new valve and place in
each valve guide. Check the clearance with a
suitably mounted dial indicator or feel the clearance
by moving the valve stem back and forth. If this
check shows excessive clearance it will be necessary
to replace the valve guide.
D-58.
Refacing Valves
Re face the valves with a valve refacer. The valve
refacer manufacturer's instructions should be followed carefully to ensure a valve face concentric
with the valve stem. Reface both intake and exhaust valves to an angle of 46°. Take off only the
minimum of metal required to clean up the valve
faces.
If the thickness of the edge of the valve head is
reduced to less than J^>" [0>8 mm.] replace the valve.
N o t e : Cocked or deformed valve springs or improperly installed or missing locks can be responsible
for valve problems.
D-59.
Valve Seat Inspection and Refacing
Inspect the valve seats for cracks, burns, pitting,
ridges, or improper angle. During any general
engine overhaul it is advisable to reface the valve
seats in both the cylinder block and head regardless
of their condition. If the valve guides are to be replaced, this must be done before refacing the valve
seats. Note that later engines have hardened
exhaust valve seat inserts.
Valve seat inserts must be concentric with finish
ream of valve stem guides (exhaust) within .002"
[0,051 mm.] total indicator reading.
When necessary to reface the valve seats, use a
valve seat grinder in accordance with the grinder
manufacturer's instructions. Any grinding of valve
seats should be preceded by touching up the
grinding stone so that their angles are accurate and
the stone is not clogged. Grind each valve seat to
a true 45° angle. Never grind any more than is
necessary to clean up pits, grooves, or to correct
the valve seat runout. Check the valve seats with
10465
FIG. D-20—VALVE W I T H ROTO CAP
FIG. D-21—GAUGING V A L V E
SEATS
55
D
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
the blcck, remove an insert with a tool designed for
this purpose.
When installing a new insert, make certain the
counterbore is clean and smooth. Use a driver that
will keep the insert in true alignment with the bore.
Cool the insert and the installing tool with dry ice
for 30 minutes.
N o t e : The insert should be sufficiently cooled
to permit installation with light taps; excessive
driving of the insert may cock it in the counterbore
or crack the insert.
Make certain the valve seat is facing out. Drive
in the insert with the tool until it bottoms in the
counterbore. After installation, grind the valve
seat at an angle of 45° and then check with a dial
indicator as shown in Fig. D-21.
F I G . D-2 2 — R E F A C I N G
VALVES
1— Valve Refacer
2— Valve
a dial indicator as shown in Fig. D-21 after refacing.
The valve seat should not be out of round more
than .002" [0,051 mm.]. A simple check can be
made in the absence of a dial indicator by spreading
a thin coat of pencil lead or bearing-fitting blue on
the valve face and then inserting the valve into
the valve seat. With hand pressure, rotate the valve
a quarter turn and then remove the valve and observe the transfer of blue (or pencil lead) to the
valve seat. An uneven transfer will indicate an
inaccurate valve and valve seat refacing operation.
After the seat is ground, check its width with a
seat width scale or a steel scale placed across the
face of the seat. The valve seat width after refacing
should measure
[2,3 mm.] and not wider than
y%" [3,2 mm.]. Valve seat width is vital. Too wide
a seat can cause seat burning as it tends to trap
and hold carbon particles. Seats that are too narrow
will not transfer heat to the coolant rapidly enough
to keep the valves in proper operating condition.
When a valve seat has been refaced several times
or where it must be cut deeply for adequate reconditioning, the seat may become too wide for efficient
operation. Narrow the seat without changing its
position in relation to the valve face by using a
valve seat relief counterbore above the seat and a
valve seat narrowing cutter below the seat. These
operations are performed only after the valve seats
have been refaced and then only when necessary.
The finished valve seat should contact the approximate center of the valve face. Check by applying
an extremely thin coat of pencil lead or bearingfitting blue to the seat. Then install and rotate the
valve with light pressure. Blue (or pencil marks)
will transfer to the face of the valve. If the blue
is near the top edge of the valve face, lower the
valve seat by using the valve seat relief counterbore. I f the blue is transferred to the bottom edge
of the valve face, raise the seat by using the valve
seat narrowing cutter.
When the valve seat can no longer be corrected, it
is advisable to investigate installing seat inserts.
D-60. Exhaust Valve Seat Insert Replacement
Hardened valve seat inserts for exhaust valves will
seldom require replacement. To avoid damaging
56
D-61. V a l v e G u i d e R e p l a c e m e n t
Damaged, loose, or worn valve guides must be replaced. Use valve guide driver W-238 or equivalent
to drive out the old guides. When replacing valve
guides, maximum engine performance can be secured only when the guide is positioned correctly
FIG. D-23—VALVE G U I D E
FIG. D-24—VALVE G U I D E
1—Flush at this point
DRIVER
POSITIONS
2—One Inch [25 mm. I
5
'Jeep U N I V E R S A L
SERIES S E R V I C E MANUAL
Driver W-238 is equipped with an adapter ring
which correctly positions the guides. See Fig. D-23.
Start a new exhaust valve guide, blunt (nontapered)
end first, into the valve guide bore i n the top of
the cylinder block. When properly positioned, the
top end of the guide is exactly 1 " [25,4 mm.] below
the level of the top of the block as shown in Fig.
D-24. Start a new intake valve guide, tapered end
first, into position from the bottom of the cylinder
head. When properly positioned, the end of the
guide is just flush with the end of the valve guide
bore in the cylinder head as shown in Fig. D-24.
Run a reamer (Tool C-3 8) through the new guides
after they have been correctly positioned.
D-62. T a p p e t s and Cover
The valve tappets are lubricated through oil
troughs cast in the crankcase. The troughs are
filled by oil sprayed from the connecting rod ends
and passages are drilled through the tappet guides
to carry the oil to the tappets. A groove around the
center of the tappet shank carries the oil up and
down the guide.
Check the threads and fit of the exhaust valve adjusting screw in the exhaust valve tappets. The fit
of a screw should be such that a wrench is required
to turn it into or out of the tappet as these are of
the self-locking type. Replace the worn part, either
the screw or the tappet, or both, if there is looseness between the parts.
D-63. C r a n k s h a f t R e a r B e a r i n g S e a l
Oil leakage through the rear main bearing is prevented by a metal supported neoprene lip type
seal which can readily be installed without removing the crankshaft.
Should trouble be experienced with oil leaking
from the rear main bearing there are several points
which should be checked.
a . Be sure that the identifying paint daub on the
bearing cap is the same as that appearing on the
center bearing web.
b. The bearing to crankshaft clearance must not
exceed .0029" [0,0736 mm.].
c. Place sealer on the faces of the rear bearing cap
from the rear oil groove to the oil seal grooves.
d- Be sure the rubber oil seals extend about 34"
[6 mm.] below the bottom face of the cap.
e. Be sure the oil pan gasket is not leaking.
f. Check to be sure the oil leak is not at the camshaft rear bearing expansion plug or from the
crankcase.
D-64. Floating O i l I n t a k e
• Refer to Fig. D-25 and D-26.
The floating oil intake is attached to the bottom
of the crankcase with two screws. The float and
screen causes it to ride, raise and lower with the
amount of oil in the pan. This prevents water or
dirt, which may have accumulated in the bottom
of the oil pan, from circulating through the engine
because the oil is drawn horizontally from the top
surface. Whenever removed, the float, screen, and
tube should be cleaned thoroughly to remove any
D
accumulation of dirt. Also clean the oil pan.
Fluctuating oil pressure can usually be traced to
an air leak between the oil float support and the
crankcase.
Be sure the float support flange is flat. Clean both
the flange and the crankcase surfaces thoroughly
before installing a new gasket. Be sure the retaining
screws are tight.
D-65. O i l P u m p
The oil pump is located externally on the left side
of the engine. In operation oil is drawn from the
crankcase through the floating oil intake then
passes through a drilled passage in the crankcase
to the pump from which it is forced through
drilled passages to the crankshaft and camshaft
bearings. When it is necessary to remove an oil
pump, first remove the distributor cover and note
the position of the distributor rotor so that the
pump may be reinstalled without disturbing the
ignition timing. To install the pump without disturbing the timing, the pump gear must be correctly meshed with the camshaft driving gear to
allow engagement of the key on the distributor
shaft with the pump shaft slot, without changing
the position of the distributor rotor. Distributor
can be installed only in one position as the slot and
driving key are machined off-center.
The oil pump consists of an inner and outer rotor
within the pump body. An oil relief valve is
mounted in the pump body which controls the oil
pressure. To disassemble the pump, Fig. D-27, first
remove the gear which is retained by straight
pin. It will be necessary to file off one end of the
pin before driving it out with a small drift. B y removing the cover the outer rotor and the inner
rotor and shaft may be removed through the
cover opening. Failure of the pump to operate at
full efficiency may usually be traced to excessive
end float of the rotors or excessive clearance between the rotors. The clearance between the outer
rotor and the pump body should also be checked.
Match the rotors together with one lobe of the inner
rotor pushed as far as possible into the notch of the
outer rotor. Measure the clearance between the
lobes of the rotors as shown in Fig. D-28. This clearance should be .010" [0,254 mm.] or less.
If more, replace both rotors. Measure the clearance
between the outer rotor and the pump body as
shown in Fig. D-29. Should this clearance exceed
.012" [0,305 mm.] the fault is probably in the
pump body and it should be replaced. E n d float
of the rotors is controlled by the thickness of the
cover gasket which is made of special material that
can be only slightly compressed. Never use other
than a standard factory gasket. Check the cover
to be sure the inner surface is not rough or scored
and that it is flat within .001" [0,025 mm.] tested
with feeler gauges, Fig. D-30. Measure thickness of
the rotors which must be within .001" [0,025 mm.]
of each other. Assemble the rotors in the pump
body and install the cover without the gasket.
When the cover screws are tightened to normal
tension, there should be interference between the
rotors and the cover making it impossible to turn
the pump shaft by hand. Remove the cover and re57
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
F I G . D-2 5 — O I L F I L T E R , O I L PAN, O I L PUMP AND L I N E S
1— Oil Filler Cap
2 — Gasket
3 — O i l F i l l e r Tube
4—Bolt
5 — Bracket
6— Oil L i n e (Crankcase to Cylinder Head)
7— Screw
8— Oil L i n e Bracket
9— ^Fastener
10— Gasket
11— Pin
12— Driven Gear (Oil Pump)
13— Oil Pump
14— Shaft and Rotors
58
15— Cover Gasket
16—-Cover (Oil Pump)
17— O i l P a n Gasket
18—Oil P a n
19— D r a i n Plug Gasket
2 0 — Oil P a n Drain Plug
2 1 — Lockwasher
2 2 — F a n Pulley Shield
2 3 — Spacer
2 4 — Stud (Oil Filter Bracket)
2 5 — Lockwasher
2 6 — Retainer
2 7 — Gasket
2 8 — Shim
2 9 — Spring
3 0 — Plunger
3 1 — Gasket
3 2 — Oil Float Support
3 3 — Oil Float Assy.
3 4 — Cotter Pin
3 5 — Elbow Fitting
36— Oil Filter Tube (Inlet)
3 7 — Oil Filter Tube (Outlet)
38—Jam Nut
39— Bracket
4 0 — Oil Filter Base
4 1 — Oil Filter Brace
4 2 — Oil Filter Assy.
4 3 — Clamp
D
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
use of shims only. Shims are available that can be
added between the retainer and the spring to increase pressure. When shims are present, removing
shims will decrease pressure.
This adjustment will change the pressure at higher
speeds but not at idle speed. Safe minimum pressure is 6 psi. [0,4 kg-cm ] at idle, at which point
the oil pressure light goes out; and 20 psi. [1,4
kg-cm ] at 2000 rpm. (32 mph. [51 kph.]).
2
2
10262
FIG.
D-26—FLOATING
OIL I N T A K E AND
PAN
1— Oil Float
2— Gasket
3— Oil F l o a t Support
4— Screw and Lockwasher
5— Oil Pan Gasket
6— Oil Pan
7— Bolt and Lockwasher
8— Drain Plug
9— Drain Plug Gasket
place it with the gasket in position. The rotors
should then rotate freely, providing that end float
of the rotors is less than the thickness of the gasket
when compressed or .004" [0,102 mm.]. After assembling the gear on the pump shaft, check the
running clearance between the gear and pump
body with a feeler gauge. This clearance should be
from .022" to .051" [0,559 a 1,295 mm.].
Pump output is controlled by a pressure relief
valve.
C A U T I O N : The oil pressure relief spring is calibrated. Never stretch this spring to alter the relief
valve pressure setting. Adjust this setting by the
D-66. Oil Pan
Examine the oil pan carefully for evidence of corrosion, dents, or other damage. Special attention
should be given to the mounting flange to be sure
of proper alignment and a tight seal at the cylinder
block, oil pan, and engine front plate. Whenever
the oil pan is removed, it is best to install a new
oil pan gasket.
D-67. Flywheel
The flywheel is mounted on the rear flange of the
crankshaft. The crankshaft, flywheel, and clutch
assembly are statically and dynamically balanced
separately and as a unit; therefore, these components should be assembled in their original relative positions to maintain this balance.
D-68. Flywheel Inspection
Clean the flywheel thoroughly with cleaning solvent. Inspect the clutch face of the flywheel for
a burned or scuffed condition or rivet grooves.
Check the flywheel for run-out or improper mounting according to the installation procedure given
in Par. D-87.
I f the inner ends of the flywheel ring gear teeth are
only slightly burred cr snubbed, remove the burrs
and reshape the teeth using a small emery wheel.
59
HURRICANE F4 E N G I N E
FIG. D-30—CHECKING O I LPUMP COVER
F I G . D-28- C H E C K I N G O I L P U M P
ROTORS
ly clean the ring gear surface of the flywheel. Heat
the new ring gear evenly to a range of 650°F. to
700°F. [343°C. a 371°C.] and place it on the cold
flywheel, making certain that the chamfer on the
teeth is on the crankshaft side of the flywheel. Be
sure that the ring gear is firmly seated on the flywheel. Allow the ring gear to cool slowly to shrink
it onto the flywheel. Do not quench the ring gear;
allow it to slowly air cool.
D-7Q.
Flywheel Pilot Bushing
Inspect the flywheel pilot bushing in the flywheel.
For procedure on replacing the bushing, refer to
Par. 1-8.
D-71.
FIG. D-29—CHECKING OUTER ROTOR TO
OIL PUMP BODY
If, however, the teeth are broken, cracked, or
seriously burred, the ring gear should be replaced.
D-69. Ring Gear Replacement
The ring gear is secured on the flywheel by a shrink
fit. Before starting the operation of replacing the
ring gear, place the new ring gear against the old
gear to make certain both have the same number of
teeth.
To remove the ring gear from the flywheel, drill a
[9,5 mm.] hole through the ring gear and cut
through any remaining metal with a cold chisel.
Remove the ring gear from the flywheel. Thorough60
Flywheel Housing
The flywheel housing, which encloses the flywheel
and clutch is bolted to the engine rear plate and
cylinder block. The rear of the housing provides
the front support for the transmission. Examine
the housing for cracks and distortion of the
machined surfaces. The front face must seat evenly
against the engine rear end plate without evidence
of warpage. The rear face must be parallel to the
front face. Improper alignment may cause transmission gear disengagement. In addition, the opening in the rear of the housing, which serves as a
pilot for the transmission, must be concentric with
the crankshaft. The flywheel housing should be
checked for alignment after it is installed on the
engine. Refer to Par. D-88.
D-72. C o r e H o l e E x p a n s i o n P l u g
Any evidence of coolant leakage around any of
the core hole expansion plugs will require replacement of the plug. The expansion plug at the rear
end of the cylinder block can be driven out with a
24" [60 cm.] length of half-inch bar stock carefully
inserted through the camshaft bore in the cylinder
block. The other core hole expansion plugs in the
cylinder block and cylinder head can be removed
by piercing the center with a sharp tool and prying
them out. Before attempting to install a new plug,
clean the hole thoroughly. Apply a thin coat of
sealer on the new plug and install the plug with a
driver.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L SERIES SERVICE M A N U A L
F I G . D-31 — C Y L I N D E R
HEAD
1—Rocker A r m Cover
2— Gasket
3— Cover Stud
4— Connector
5— Pipe Plug
6— Cylinder Head
7— Gasket
8—Pipe Plug H'
9— Thermostat
10— Gasket
11— Water Outlet Fitting
12— Screw and Lock Washer
13— Carburetor Mounting Stud
14— Pipe Plug H"
15— Crankcase Vent
14413
D-73. C y l i n d e r H e a d
Be sure that water passages are open and that
all carbon is removed. Inspect all tapped openings.
Repair any damaged threads or broken studs. Run
a tap in the threaded holes to clean up rough or
damaged threads. Before using a tap, squirt
penetrating oil on the threads. Discard or repair
cracked cylinder heads, also those warped .010"
[0,254 mm.] or more over the full length of the head.
The right side of the cylinder head has an elbow
screwed into the intake manifold which mounts the
crankcase ventilation valve. Refer to Par. D-l5
and Fig. D-32 for removal of the valve and elbow.
D-74.
Rocker A r m s
The rocker arms and their related parts are
mounted on the top of the cylinder head and enclosed by the rocker arm cover. The rocker arm
shaft, supported in four rocker arm shaft brackets,
carries the rocker arms and the rocker arm shaft
springs. The intake valve adjusting screws and
locknuts provide the means for adjusting these
valves.
D-75.
13342
FIG. D-32—CRANKCASE VENTILATION VALVE
1—Ventilation Valve
2—90* Elbow
3—Cylinder Head
Rocker A r m S h a f t Disassembly
a . Remove the two studs in the rocker arm shaft
brackets at the ends of the rocker arm shaft.
b. Slide the rocker arm shaft brackets, the four
rocker arm assemblies, and the two rocker arm
shaft springs off the rocker arm shaft. Remove the
two rocker arm shaft lock screws from the two remaining rocker arm shaft brackets and slide the
brackets off the shaft.
c. Insert a screwdriver under the edge of the
rocker arm shaft plugs at each end of the rocker
arm shaft, and pry the plugs out of the shaft.
61
D
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
d. Remove the intake valve adjusting screw locknuts from each of the rocker arm valve lash adjusting screws. Remove the screws from the rocker
arms.
D-76. Inspection and Repair
Run a round wire brush through the bore of the
rocker arm shaft and clean out the drilled oil holes.
Clean out the oil holes in the rocker arm shaft
brackets, and the oil holes and grooves in the bores
of the rocker arm.
Inspect the diameter of the shaft at the rocker arm
bearing areas. Replace the shaft if there are scores
or abrasion marks along the length of the shaft.
Check the shaft for alignment by rolling it across
a smooth level surface. If the shaft will not roll
freely, or if it rolls with a bumping motion, the
shaft is out of alignment and must be replaced.
Inspect the threads of the adjusting screw hole in
the rocker arms and if necessary clean with a
proper size tap. Replace the adjusting screw locknut or the adjusting screw if either part is damaged
or deformed.
Inspect the threads in the tapped hole in the top
of the rocker arm shaft brackets and if necessary
clean with a proper size tap. Replace the bracket
if either side is worn or scored.
D-77. Reassembly
a. Install two rocker arm shaft plugs, one in each
end of the shaft. Slide two rocker arm shaft brackets
onto the center of the shaft. Align the tapped holes
in the brackets with the drilled holes in the top of
the shaft and install the rocker arm shaft lock
screws, making sure the points of the screws enter
the drilled holes in the shaft.
b. Screw the intake valve adjusting screws into
the rocker arms and install the locknuts.
c. The rocker arms are paired; that is, two of the
arms are angled to the right and two are angled to
the left. One of each type is used on each end of
the rocker arm shaft. Slide a rocker arm with the
adjusting screw end of the rocker arm angling
away from the bracket onto the shaft so that the
adjusting screw is on the same side of the shaft
as the mounting hole in the bracket.
d . Temporarily secure the end bracket in place by
installing a rocker arm cover stud in the tapped
opening in the top of the support.
e. Assemble the parts on the opposite end of the
rocker arm shaft repeating steps c and d above.
D-78. E N G I N E R E A S S E M B L Y
The engine reassembly procedure in the following
paragraphs is given in the sequence to be followed
when the engine is being completely overhauled.
Individual inspection, repair, and fitting operations
previously covered in detail are made throughout
the reassembly procedure. The reassembly procedure does not cover accessories. If a new cylinder
block fitted with pistons is used, many of the
operations will not be required.
Mount the cylinder block in an engine repair stand.
If an engine stand is not available, perform the following reassembly operation in a manner designed
62
to protect personnel against an accident and the
engine and its parts against damage.
Note: During engine reassembly, use Perfect Seal
Aerosol Spray Sealer Part No. 994757 on all engine
gaskets to ensure against vacuum, oil, gasoline and
water leaks. Apply to head gaskets, valve covers,
water pumps, oil pan gaskets, radiator and heater
hose connections, felt gaskets, gasoline and oil line
connections, stud bolts, spark plug threads, and
grease retainer washers. Refer to manufacturer's instructions on container for proper application procedure.
D-79. Install Oil Gallery Plug
Coat plug threads with a suitable sealing compound
and install the plugs in the front and rear ends of
the oil gallery in the cylinder block and the rear
end of the cylinder head. Torque the plugs 20 to
25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].
There is also a pipe plug (}/g [3,2 mm.] slotted,
headless) in the opening in the main oil gallery
inside the cylinder block at No. 2 cylinder and
another pipe plug (}/g " square-head) in the opening
in the oil passage directly below the oil pump intake
passage. If these two pipe plugs were removed,
make certain they are reinstalled in the locations
described above or the counterweight of the
crankshaft might strike the projecting head of the
square-head plug.
,f
D-80. Install Tappets
Turn the block upside down. Beginning at the
rear end of the cylinder block, install the intake
and exhaust valve tappets in the tappet bores in
the cylinder block in the following order: one
exhaust, two intake, two exhaust, two intake, and
finally one exhaust valve tappet.
Check the tappet to bore fit of each tappet as it
is installed in the block. If the stem-to-block
clearance tolerance of .0005" to .002" [0,0127 a
0,051 mm.] is exceeded install a new tappet fitting
within this tolerance or ream the bore to accomodate the next oversize tappet which is available
in .004" oversize.
D-81. Install C a m s h a f t and T h r u s t Plate
Lubricate all camshaft bearings and cam surfaces
generously with clean, light engine oil. Carefully,
so not to damage or score the camshaft front bearing, install the camshaft, locating it properly in
the bearings. Do not allow the rear end of the camshaft to strike sharply against the expansion plug
installed in the rear end of the bore.
Install the camshaft thrust plate. Slide the thrust
plate spacer onto the end of the camshaft with the
beveled inner edge of the spacer facing the camshaft. If the same camshaft is being reinstalled,
install any shims previously removed. These shims
are placed between the camshaft shoulder and the
spacer. Torque the thrust plate attaching bolts 20
to 26 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,6 kg-m.].
End play of the camshaft is determined by running
clearance between the rear face of the camshaft
gear and the thrust plate. The standard clearance
D
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
is .004" to .007" [0,102 a 0,178 mm.] as measured
by a dial indicator. Should a check show too little
end play, place a shim of suitable thickness between
the camshaft shoulder and the spacer. Too much
end play may be corrected by removing shims or
dressing off the spacer a slight amount. See Fig.
D-33.
D-82. Install Crankshaft and Bearings
Fit the three upper main bearings into their
respective locations in the cylinder block. Fit the
three lower main bearings into their respective
bearing caps.
N O T E : It is possible to incorrectly install the front
main bearing. The bearing is properly installed in
the cap with the narrower of the two radial oil
grooves toward the front edge of the cap. If this
bearing is not properly installed, the oil grooves in
the two halves of the bearing will not match at the
parting line and premature failure of the bearing
will result.
Lubricate all bearing surfaces generously with
clean, light engine oil. Place the crankshaft in
position in the cylinder block and install the main
bearing caps. Torque the bolts 65 to 75 lb-ft.
[9,0 a 10,4 kg-m.] rotating the crankshaft after
each bearing cap is tightened
D-83. Check Crankshaft End-Play
End play of the crankshaft is set by the running
clearance between the crankshaft thrust washer
and the front face of the front main bearing. The
standard end play is .004" to .006" [0,102 a 0,152
mm.] which is controlled by .002" [0,051 mm.]
shims placed between the thrust washer and the
shoulder on the crankshaft. Check the end play
with a dial indicator as shown in Fig. D-34. If clearance is incorrect, adjustment is made by adding or
removing shims.
Install the thrust washer with the beveled inner
edge toward the front bearing.
10668
F I G . D-33—VALVES,
1— Nut
2—Left Rocker Arm
3— Rocker Arm Shaft Spring
4— Rocker Shaft Lock Screw
5— Rocker Shaft
6— Nut
7—Right Rocker A r m
8—Rocker A r m Shaft Bracket
9— Intake Valve Tappet Adjusting Screw
10— Intake Valve Upper Retainer Lock
11—Oil Seal
12— Intake Valve Spring Upper Retainer
CAMSHAFT, AND TIMING
13— Intake Valve Spring
14—Intake Valve Push Rod
15— Intake Valve
16— Intake Valve Tappet
17— Camshaft
18—Camshaft Front Bearing
19— Camshaft Thrust Plate Spacer
20— Camshaft Thrust Plate
21— Bolt and Lockwasher
22—Bolt
13—Lockwasher
24—Camshaft Gear Washer
GEARS
25— Crankshaft Gear
26— Camshaft Gear
27— Woodruff K e y No. 9
28— Exhaust Valve Tappet
29—Tappet Adjusting Screw
30—Spring Retainer Lock
31—Roto Cap Assembly
32— Exhaust Valve Spring
33—Exhaust Valve
34— Rocker Shaft Support Stud
35— Washer
36— Rocker Arm Cover Stud
63
D
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
mately 34* [6 mm.] from the case. When the oil
pan is installed, it will force them tightly into the
holes and effectively seal any opening between
the bearing cap and the crankcase.
D-86. Install Front End Plate
Assemble the gasket to the front end plate making
certain that it is positioned properly down to the
bottom of the crankcase. Install the front end plate
on the cylinder block and tighten in place.
D-87. Install Flywheel
Be sure the crankshaft flange and flywheel mating
surfaces are clean to permit proper flywheel alignment. With the crankshaft in the cylinder block,
F I G . D-34—GAUGING C R A N K S H A F T
END PLAY
F I G . D-36— R E A M I N G F L Y W H E E L
F I G . D-35 — D R I L L I N G F L Y W H E E L
D-84. Install Crankshaft T i m i n g Gear
Install the woodruff key in the longer of the two
keyways on the front end of the crankshaft. Install
the crankshaft timing gear on the front end
of the crankshaft with the timing mark facing
out, away from the cylinder block. Align the
keyway in the gear with the woodruff key and then
drive or press the gear onto the crankshaft firmly
against the thrust washer.
D-85. Install Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal
When installing the crankshaft rear bearing seal
around the crankshaft, apply a thin coat of light
cup grease to both halves of the seal except for the
ends which are already treated with sealing compound. When installing the rear main bearing cap
in the crankcase, place a small amount of plastictype gasket cement on both sides and face of the
cap to prevent oil leakage. Insert the rubber
packings shown in Fig. D-3 7 into the holes between
the bearing cap and the case. Do not trim these
packings. The packings are of a predetermined
length that will cause them to protrude approxi64
FIG. D-37—REAR B E A R I N G CAP P A C K I N G
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
D
and those below are installed with the nuts on the
flywheel housing side. Install the other bolts from
the rear except the screw used to attach the top
side of the starting motor. Tighten securely.
D-89. Install Clutch
To install the clutch assembly with the engine out
of the vehicle use a clutch plate aligning arbor.
Place the clutch driven plate in position against
the flywheel. Insert the arbor into the clutch driven
plate and clutch shaft bushing and expand the arbor
in the bushing to hold it in place. Hold the clutch
pressure plate assembly in position against the
clutch driven plate and install the attaching bolts
and washers, tightening the bolts alternately and
evenly. Remove the arbor.
FIG. D-38—CHECKING F L Y W H E E L
RUN-OUT
place the flywheel on the mounting bolts in the
crankshaft. When installing a new crankshaft or
flywheel, replace the tapered dowel bolts with
straight snug-fitting special bolts provided using
Flywheel Dowel Bolt Installing Tool K i t W-231
as shown in Fig. D-35 and D-36. Assemble the
crankshaft and flywheel in proper relation; then install the straight bolts previously used and tighten
securely. Next, use the
[13,9 mm.] drill to
enlarge the tapered holes. Ream the holes with the
5fo" [14,3 mm.] straight reamer and install the
two special flywheel bolts with nuts and lockwashers in place of the two tapered dowel bolts
formerly used. This procedure overcomes the
necessity of reaming special tapered holes.
Tighten the nuts alternately and evenly until each
is tightened 35 to 41 lb-ft. [4,8 a 5,7 kg-m.].
After installation check the run-out of the flywheel
with a dial indicator attached to the engine plate
as illustrated in Fig. D-38. Mount the dial indicator
with the contact button of the indicator resting
against the clutch face of the flywheel. Set the
indicator at zero and rotate the flywheel. Maximum
allowable run-out is .008" [0,203 mm.] near the
outer edge of the rear face of the flywheel.
With the flywheel housing installed temporarily,
the alignment can be checked with a dial indicator.
Without the clutch installed on the flywheel, a
dial indicator can be mounted on one of the flywheel
bolts. Set the dial indicator with the button resting
against the rear face of the flywheel housing. Rotate the flywheel, noting the run-out on the indicator. Maximum allowable run-out is .005" [0,127
mm.]. Relocate the dial indicator so that the
button is against the side of the rear opening to
check the radial run-out. Rotate the flywheel and
note the run-out which should not exceed .006"
[0,152 mm.].
D-88. Install Flywheel Housing
Be certain that the mating surfaces of the flywheel
housing and cylinder block are clean and smooth.
Place the flywheel housing in position and attach
to the cylinder block and engine rear plate. The
long bolts through the lugs on the engine crankcase
D-90. Install Valves and Springs
Oil the valve stems. Insert all intake and exhaust
valves in the valve guides from which they were
removed.
Install one exhaust valve spring and exhaust valve
spring retainer (Roto Cap) for each exhaust valve.
Slip the top end of the spring onto the bottom end
of the valve guide and, with a large screwdriver,
snap the spring and retainer over the tappet adjusting screw. Make certain that the two closely
wound coils of each spring are at the top (placed
up to seat against the block.) See Fig. D-39.
Turn the crankshaft as necessary to bring each
exhaust valve tappet to its lowest position. Using a
valve spring lifter, compress each exhaust valve
spring, while holding the valve down, so that the
stem extends through the valve spring retainer
far enough to permit installation of the valve
spring locks. Heavy lubricating oil or grease
placed on the inside surface of the valve locks will
help to hold the locks on the valve stem until the
valve spring lifter can be removed. When installation of exhaust valves is complete, remove any
cloths used to block the valve compartment floor
openings. Install the intake valves and springs in
the cylinder head placing the ends of the springs
having the closed coils down against the cylinder
head.
FIG. D-39—VALVE TAPPETS AND SPRINGS
65
D
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
F I G . D-40—TIMING GEARS
Be sure to install a new rubber oil seal ring on each
intake valve stem before installing the retainer
locks. With the retainer and spring compressed
position a seal ring on the valve stem just above the
lock recess, then install the locks and release the
spring.
Adjust the valve tappets to the proper specified
clearance. Refer to Par. D-108, and specifications
at the end of this section for specifications and
adjustment procedure.
D-91. Install C a m s h a f t T i m i n g Gear
Turn the camshaft or crankshaft as necessary so
that the timing marks on the two gears will be
together after the camshaft timing gear is installed.
Refer to Fig. D-40. Install the woodruff key in the
key way on the front end of the camshaft. Start the
large timing gear on the camshaft with the timing
mark facing out. Do not drive on the camshaft
gear, or the camshaft may dislodge the plug at the
rear of the cylinder block causing an oil leak.
Install the camshaft gear retaining screw and
torque it 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.] drawing
the gear onto the camshaft in the process. Standard
running tolerance between the timing gears is
.000" to .002" [0 a 0,051 mm.] which should be
checked with a dial indicator.
D-92. Install T i m i n g Gear Oil J e t
Install the timing gear oil jet in the tapped hole
in the front of the cylinder block. Position the oil
hole in the side of the oil jet so that it will direct the
oil stream against the camshaft driven gear just
ahead of the point of engagement with the crankshaft drive gear.
D-93. Install O i l P u m p
The oil pump is driven from the camshaft by
means of a spiral (worm) gear. The distributor, in
turn, is driven by the oil pump by means of a
tongue on the end of the distributor shaft which
engages a slot in the end of the oil pump shaft.
Because the tongue and the slot are both machined
66
off center, the two shafts can be meshed in only
one position. Since the position of the distributor
shaft determines the timing of the engine, and is
controlled by the oil pump shaft, the position of
the oil pump shaft with respect to the camshaft is
important.
Turn the crankshaft to bring together the timing
marks on the crankshaft and camshaft gears. See
Fig. D-4 0. Install the oil pump mounting gasket on
the pump. With the wider side of the shaft on top
(nearer the top of the cylinder block), start the
oil pump drive shaft into the opening in the left
side of the cylinder block with the mounting holes
in the body of the pump in alignment with the holes
in the cylinder block. Insert a long-blade screwdriver into the distributor shaft opening in the
opposite side of the block and engage the slot in
the oil pump shaft. Turn the shaft so that the slot
is positioned at what would be roughly the ninethirty position on a clock face.
Remove tne screwdriver and, looking down the
distributor shaft hole with a flashlight, observe the
position of the slot in the end of the oil pump shaft
to make certain it is properly positioned. Replace
the screwdriver and, while turning the screwdriver clockwise to guide the oil pump drive shaft
gear into engagement with the camshaft gear, press
against the oil pump to force it into position.
Remove the screwdriver and again observe the
position of the slot. If the installation was properly
made, the slot will be in a position roughly equivalent to eleven o'clock position on a clock face with
the wider side of the shaft still on the top. If the
slot is improperly positioned, remove the oil pump
assembly and repeat the operation.
Coat the threads of the capscrews with gasket
cement and secure the oil pump in place with two
lockwasher-equipped capscrews installed through
the body of the oil pump and into the cylinder block
and one lockwasher-capscrew installed through
the oil pump mounting flange.
D-94. Install T i m i n g Gear Cover
Apply a thin coat of gasket paste to the timing
gear cover. Position the gasket on the cover and
carefully locate the cover on the front of the front
mounting plate. Attach the cover and timing
indicator and tighten the bolts.
D-95. Install Pistons and Connecting Rods
Before installing each piston and connecting rod
assembly in the cylinder block, generously lubricate
the entire assembly with engine oil. Space the ring
gaps around the piston so that no two gaps are
aligned vertically and are not located over the
T-slot in the piston skirt. Insert the assembly in
the correct cylinder with the connecting rod
identifying number toward the camshaft side of
the cylinder block. When installing each assembly,
rotate the crankshaft so that the crankpin is in
the down position. F i t a piston ring compressor
tightly around the piston rings. Reach up from the
bottom of the cylinder block and guide the end of
the connecting rod over the crankshaft journal as
the piston is tapped down into the cylinder bore
with hammer handle.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L SERIES S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Lubricate the connecting rod bearing surfaces
generously with engine oil and install the bearing
cap with the numbered side matched to the numbered side of the connecting rod. Torque the nuts
evenly 35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.]. The connecting rod cap nuts are locked with stamped nuts.
Used stamped nuts should be discarded and replaced with new ones. These locking stamped nuts
should be installed with the flat face toward the
connecting rod nut. Turn the locking nut finger
tight and then 34 turn more with a wrench. Refer
to Par. D-36 for detailed information on fitting
pistons and rings in the cylinder bores.
D-96. Install Crankshaft Pulley
Align the keyway in the pulley with the woodruff
key installed in the crankshaft. Drive the pulley
onto the crankshaft and secure it in place with
the crankshaft pulley nut. Insert a block of wood
between one of the counterweights on the crankshaft and the side of the cylinder block to prevent
the crankshaft from turning, then tighten the nut.
D-97. Install Oil Pan
Before installing the oil pan, make a final internal
inspection particularly making certain that the
inside of the cylinder block is clean. Apply a thin
coat of gasket paste on the oil pan. Place the new
oil pan gasket in position. Set the oil pan in position on the cylinder block and install the oil pan.
Torque the attaching bolts 12 to 15 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,1
kg-m.]. Install the oil pan drain plug and gasket
and tighten the plug securely.
D-98. Install Cylinder Head
Make certain that the entire top of the cylinder
block assembly, the lower surface of the cylinder
head, and the cylinder head gasket are clean. Blow
all dirt or carbon out of the blind tapped bolt holes
in the cylinder block before the cylinder head and
gasket are installed. Using aerosol spray sealer
Part No. 994757, spray a thincoat on both surfaces
of the head gasket, position the new cylinder head
gasket with the crimped edges of the gasket metal
down (See Fig. D-31). This gasket position allows a
positive seal along the narrow surfaces of the cylinder head between the combustion chambers and
eliminates the possibility of burning combustion
D
gases reaching an asbestos portion of the cylinder
head gasket. Install the cylinder head bolts. Tighten
the bolts with a torque wrench to 60 to 70 lb-ft.
8,3 a 9,7 kg-m.] in the sequence shown in Fig. D-41.
Do not overlook installing the cylinder head bolt
in the intake manifold directly under the carburetor opening.
D-99. Install Rocker A r m Assembly
a. Insert ball ends of the intake valve push rods
through the cylinder head and cylinder block and
seat them in the cupped head of the intake valve
tappets.
b. Install the rocker-arm assembly on the 'four
rocker-arm-mounting studs. Align the rocker arms
so that the ball ends of the intake valve tappet
adjusting screws fit into the cup ends of the push
rods.
c. Install the four rocker-arm-attaching nuts.
Thread each nut down evenly in sequence, one
turn at a time, until the torque is 30 to 36 lb-ft.
[4,1 a 5,0 kg-m.].
d. Cement a new gasket on the rocker arm cover.
Install the cover placing an oil seal then a flat
washer and nut on each cover stud. Cement a
new gasket on the exhaust valve cover. Install the
cover and crankcase ventilation fittings using a
new gasket back of the vent cover and new copper
ring gaskets under the attaching screw heads.
Torque the valve tappet cover nuts 7 to 10 lb-ft.
[1,0 a 1,4 kg-m.].
D-100. Install Distributor and Spark Plugs
To correctly install the distributor, it will be necessary to place No. 1 piston in the firing position.
To locate the firing position of No. 1 piston, first
turn the engine until No. 1 piston is moving up on
the compression stroke as indicated by compression
pressure being forced through the spark plug opening. Turn the engine slowly until the 5° before top
center mark on the timing gear cover is in alignment with the mark on the crankshaft pulley. Oil
the distributor housing where it bears on the cylinder block and install the distributor. Mount the
rotor on distributor shaft and turn the shaft until
the rotor points towards No. 1 spark plug terminal
tower position (when cap is installed, about 5
o'clock) with the contact points just breaking.
Move the rotor back and forth slightly until the
driving lug on the end of the shaft enters the slot
cut in the oil pump gear and slide the distributor
assembly down into place. Rotate the distributor
body until the contact points are just breaking.
Install the hold down screw.
Connect the core primary wire to the distributor.
Clean and adjust the spark plugs, setting the electrode gaps at .030" [0,762 mm.]. Install the plugs
to prevent any foreign matter entering the combustion chambers during the remaining operations.
Torque the spark plugs 25 to 30 lb-ft. [3,5 a 4,6
kg-m.].
10102
FIG. D-41—CYLINDER HEAD BOLT
TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
Install spark plug cables, placing them in the distributor cap terminal towers starting with No. 1
and installing in a counter clockwise direction of
the firing order sequence (1-3-4-2).
67
D
HURRICANE F4 E N G I N E
D-101. Install Manifold
If manifold studs were removed for replacement,
apply sealer on the stud threads before installing
a new stud.
See Section F l for exhaust emission controlled
engines.
Make certain that no foreign objects are inside the
manifold and that all passages are clear. Place a
new set of manifold gaskets in position on the side
of the cylinder block. Then, carefully slide the
manifold onto the studs and against the cylinder
block being careful not to damage the gaskets.
Torque all manifold attaching nuts evenly 29 to
35 lb-ft. [4,0 a 4,8 kg-m.].
D-102. Install Oil Filler T u b e
When installing the oil filler tube, be sure that the
beveled lower end is away from the crankshaft.
Place a piece of hard wood over the top of the tube
to prevent damage to the cap gasket seat.
D-103. Install Water P u m p
Make certain that the mating surfaces of the water
pump and the cylinder block are clean and smooth.
Install the gasket on the flange of the pump and
install the pump in position on the cylinder block.
Torque the water pump attaching bolts alternately
and evenly 12 to 17 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,3 kg-m.].
D-104. Install Water Outlet Fitting
Install the thermostat and the water outlet fitting.
Torque the water outlet fitting attaching bolts 20
to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].
D-105. E N G I N E I N S T A L L A T I O N
a. Install lifting sling to engine and using suitable
hoist raise the engine from its blocking or stand
and then slowly lower it into the engine compartment of the vehicle.
Note: When installing the Hurricane F4 Engine,
two % x 4 inch guide bolts or dowels should be
used to properly guide and align the engine to the
flywheel housing (See Fig. D-42).
b. Slightly tilt the engine downward and at the
same time slide the engine rearward while lining
up the transmission main gear shaft with the clutch
throw-out bearing and disc spline.
Note :The engine crankshaft may have to be turned
slightly to align the transmission main gear shaft
with the clutch disc spline.
c. Remove the guide bolts or dowels and secure
the engine to the housing.
d. Secure the front engine mounts to the frame
brackets and bolt ground cable to engine.
e. Remove lifting sling from engine.
f. Connect exhaust pipe to engine manifold flange.
g. Connect throttle and choke cables to carburetor.
h. Install fan to water pump pulley.
i. Connect fuel pump line to main fuel line,
j . Replace starting motor assembly.
k. Connect engine wiring harness connectors at
front of cowl.
I. Connect wires to starting motor assembly, water
temperature and oil pressure sending units and
alternator.
N O T E : ON E N G I N E S E Q U I P P E D W I T H E X HAUST EMISSION CONTROL, R E P L A C E
T H E A I R PUMP, A I R D I S T R I B U T O R MANIFOLD, AND ANTI-BACKFIRE ( D I V E R T E R )
VALVE. S E E SECTION F l .
m . Replace radiator and radiator grille support
rods and connect coolant hoses to engine.
Note: Replace heater hoses if vehicle is equipped
with hot water heater.
n. Fill radiator with coolant and engine with oil
(see Lubrication Chart).
o. Install air cleaner and connect carburetor air
hose.
p. Connect battery cables and start engine,
q. Install hood and road test vehicle.
FIG.
D-42—INSTALLING H U R R I C A N E F4
IN VEHICLE
1— Lifting Sling
2— Hoist Cable
3— Hurricane F4 Engine
4— Dowel Bolt
5— Flywheel Housing
68
ENGINE
D-103. F I N A L I N - V E H I C L E A D J U S T M E N T S
a. Clean battery terminals and check battery.
b. Check ignition terminals and check battery.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.
d. Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e. Check fuel lines.
f. Gap and install new spark plugs.
g. Check distributor points and capacitor; replace
if necessary.
'Jeep
9
UNIVERSAL SERIES S E R V I C E MANUAL
h. Check ignition (distributor) timing; reset if
necessary.
i. Check carburetor adjustments; reset if necessary,
j . With engine fully warmed up, tighten cylinder
head and manifold bolts and nuts to specified
torque. Check cylinder head gaskets and bolts for
air or coolant leaks.
Note: Tightness of cylinder head bolts should be
checked and corrected after 500 to 600 miles [800
a 960 km.] of normal operation.
k. Check fan belt tension; adjust if necessary.
I. Check for and correct any oil leak, fuel leak or
coolant leak.
D-107. V A L V E A D J U S T M E N T
Proper valve adjustment is important to prevent
burning of valves and poor engine performance.
This adjustment consists of obtaining a specified
lash in the valve mechanism. The exhaust valve
tappets and the intake valve rocker arms should
be adjusted to the proper clearance with the engine
cold (at room temperature). Valve clearance can
be properly adjusted only when the tappet is on the
heel or low portion of the cam.
INTAKE
OPENS
9° BTC?
D-108. Valve Adjustment Procedure
The exhaust valve tappets are adjusted by turning
the adjusting screw in or out of the tappet as necessary to obtain the proper clearance. Where special
wrenches can be obtained, they should be used to
facilitate the adjustment. The proper clearance is
.016" [0,406 mm.] between the end of the adjusting
screw and the bottom of the exhaust valve.
Crank the engine over to close a valve and check
the clearance with a feeler gauge. To adjust, hold
the tappet with one wrench and turn the adjusting
screw, with the other. Check and adjust each of
the tappets in proper sequence.
Adjust each intake valve by adjusting the rocker
arm screw at the push rod to obtain .018" [0,457
mm.] clearance between the rocker arm and the
valve stem with tappet on the heel of the cam.
D-109. Check Valve T i m i n g
To check the valve timing, carefully set the intake
valve rocker arm adjustment for No. 1 cylinder to
.026" [0,6604 mm.] between the rocker arm and the
valve stem. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until
the piston in No. 1 cylinder is ready for the intake
stroke. The intake valve opens 9° before top center
( B T C ) . Note the distance between the " T C " and
"5°" marks on the indicator on the timing gear
cover and estimate the 9° before top center position.
See Fig. D-43. With the crankshaft in this position,
timing is correct if the rocker arm is just tight
against the intake valve stem. Do not overlook
resetting the rocker arm adjustment to the correct
running clearance.
D-110. Positive Crankcase Ventilation
Be sure there are no air leaks at the tube connections between the air cleaner and the oil filler tube,
and that the oil filler tube cap gasket is in good
condition. Always keep the cap locked securely in
place. When tuning the engine or grinding valves,
remove the control valve and clean it thoroughly.
If the valve is blocked with carbon, the ventilating
system will not operate and, should the valve
fail to seat, it will be impossible to make the engine
idle satisfactorily. Refer to Par. C-6 for servicing.
10270
F I G . D-43- - V A L V E
TIMING
D-111. Oil Filter
The engine is equipped with a throw-away type
oil filter. This oil filter must be serviced periodically as outlined in the Lubrication Section.
69
D
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
D-112. SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Poor Fuel Economy
Ignition Timing Slow or Spark Advance Stuck
Carburetor Float High
Accelerator Pump Not Properly Adjusted
High Fuel Pump Pressure
Fuel Leakage
Leaky Fuel Pump Diaphragm
Loose Engine Mounting Causing High Fuel Level
in Carburetor
Low Compression
Valves Sticking
Spark Plugs Bad
Spark Plug Cables Bad
Weak Coil or Condenser
Improper Valve Tappet Clearance
Carburetor Air Cleaner Dirty
High Oil Level in Air Cleaner
Dragging Brakes
Front Wheels Out of Alignment
Tires Improperly Inflated
Inaccurate Odometer
Faulty Fuel Tank Cap
Clogged Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe
Lack of Power
Low Compression
Ignition System (Timing Late)
Improper Functioning Carburetor or Fuel Pump
Fuel Lines Clogged
Air Cleaner Restricted
Engine Temperature High
Improper Tappet Clearance
Sticking Valves
Valve Timing Late
Leaky Gaskets
Muffler Clogged
Bent Exhaust Pipe
Defective Spark Plugs—Clean or Replace
Defective Breaker Points—Replace Points
Incorrect Breaker Point Gap—Reset Points
Defective Condenser or Coil—Replace
Loose Electrical Connections—Locate and
Tighten
Broken Valve Spring—Replace Spring
Broken Piston or Rings—Replace
Defective Head Gasket—Replace Gasket
Cracked Distributor Cap—Replace Cap
Low Compression
Leaky Valves
Poor Piston Ring Seal
Sticking Valves
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder Scored or Worn
Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Piston Clearance too Large
Leaky Cylinder Head Gasket
Burned Valves and Seats
Sticking Valves or too Loose in Guides
Improper Timing
Excessive Carbon Around Valve Head and Seat
Overheating
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
70
Burned Valves and Seats—Continued
Valve Tappet Sticking
Valve Tappet Clearance Incorrect
Clogged Exhaust System
Valves Sticking
Warped Valve
Improper Tappet Clearance
Carbonized or Scored Valve Stems
Insufficient Clearance Valve Stem to Guide
Weak or Broken Valve Spring
Valve Spring Cocked
Contaminated Oil
Overheating
Inoperative Cooling System
Thermostat Inoperative
Improper Ignition Timing
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Carbon Accumulation
Fan Belt too Loose
Clogged Muffler or Bent Exhaust Pipe
Oil System Failure
Scored or Leaky Piston Rings
Popping-Spitting-Detonation
Improper Ignition
Improper Carburetion
Excessive Carbon Deposit in Combustion Chambers
Poor Valve Seating
Sticking Valves
Broken Valve Spring
Tappets Adjusted too Close
Spark Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in Fuel
Clogged Lines
Improper Valve Timing
Excessive Oil Comsumption
Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Worn or Broken
Piston Rings Improperly Fitted or Weak
Piston Ring Oil Return Holes Clogged
Excessive Clearance, Main and Connecting Rod
Bearings
Oil Leaks at Gaskets or Oil Seals
Excessive Clearance, Valve Stem to Valve Guide
(Intake)
Cylinder Bores Scored, Out-of-Round or Tapered
Too Much Clearance, Piston to Cylinder Bore
Misaligned Connecting Rods
High Road Speeds or Temperature
Crankcase Ventilator Not Operating
Bearing Failure
Crankshaft Bearing Journal Out-of-Round
Crankshaft Bearing Journal Rough
Lack of Oil
Oil Leakage
Dirty Oil
Low Oil Pressure or Oil Pump Failure
Drilled Passages in Crankcase or Crankshaft
Clogged
Oil Screen Dirty
Connecting Rod Bent
D
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
D-l 13. HURRICANE F4 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
MODEL:
ENGINE:
Type
Number of Cylinders
Bore
Stroke
Piston D i s p l a c e m e n t . . . . . . . . . . .
Bore Spacing (center to center):
1 and 2, 3 and 4
2 and 3
Firing Order
Compression Ratio
Compression Pressure... .
Number of Mounting Points:
Front
Rear
Horsepower ( S A E )
Horsepower (Max Brake)
Maximum Torque @ 2000 rpm.
PISTONS:
Material
Description
Length
,.
Diameter (near bottom of skirt).
Weight.
Clearance Limits:
Piston-To-Cylindcr Bore
Ring Groove Depth:
No. 1 and 2 Ring
No. 3 Ring
Ring Groove Width:
No. 1 Ring
No. 2 Ring
No. 3 Ring
Piston P i n Hole Bore
Cylinder Bore — S t a n d a r d . . . . .
— max. out of round
- max. taper..
- max. rebore.
PISTON RINGS:
Function:
No. 1 and 2
No. 3. .
Material:
No. 1. .
No. 2 and 3
Width;
No. 1 and 2
No. 3. . . .
G a p (Std. to .009 C y l . Bore).
Thickness:
No. 1 and No. 2 R i n g s . . . .
No. 3 R i n g
Side Clearance in Groove:
No. 1 R i n g
No. 2 Ring
No. 3 R i n g
PISTON PINS:
Material
Length
Diameter
Type
Clearance in Piston (selective fit).
ENGLISH
METRIC
F-Head
4
W
134.2 cu. in.
7,937 cm.
11,112 cm.
2199 cm*
8,729 cm.
12,542 cm.
3.437"
4.938"
1-3-4-2
6.7:1
120 to 130 psi.
8,4 a 9,2 kg-cm
2
1
15.63
75 @ 4000 rpm.
114 lb-ft.
15,77 kg-m.
2
Aluminum Alloy
Gam Ground, T-slot, T i n Plated
3.1225* to 3.1245*
13.5 oz.
9,525 cm.
7,9311 a 7,9362 cm.
382,7 gr.
Selective Feeler F i t
.1593" to .1655"
.1693" to .1755"
4,046 a 4,203 mm.
4,300 a 4,457 mm.
.0955" to .0965"
.095" to .096"
1875" to .1885"
.760" to .770"
3.125" to 3.127"
.005"
.005"
.040"
2,4257 a 2,4511 mm.
2,413 a 2,438 mm.
4,7625 a 4,7879 mm.
19,304 a 19,558 mm.
7,9375 a 7,9425 cm.
0,1270 mm.
0,1270 mm.
1,0160 mm.
Compression
Oil
Cast Iron, Chrome-plated Face
Cast Iron
.007" to .017"
2,38 mm.
4,76 mm.
0,178 a 0,432 mm.
.134" to .144"
.115" to .125"
3,403 a 3,657 mm.
2,821 a 3,175 mm.
.002" to .004"
.0015" to .0035"
.001" to .0025"
0,051 a 0,102 mm.
0,038 a 0,088 mm.
0,025 a 0,063 mm.
S A E 1016 Steel
2.781"
.8119"
Locked in Rod
.0001" to .0003"
70,637 mm.
20,6223 mm.
0,0025 a 0,0076 mm.
71
D
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
D - l 13 HURRICHNE F4 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)
MODEL:
CONNECTING RODS:
Material.
Weight
Length (center to c e n t e r ) . . . . . .
Bearing:
Type.
Material
Length Over A l l
Clearance Limits. . . . . . . . . . .
Undersize Bearings Available
E n d Play
Installation
Bore:
Upper
Lower
CRANKSHAFT:
Material....................
E n d Thrust
E n d Play
Main Bearings:
Type.
Material
Clearance
Undersize Bearings Available
Journal Diameter
Bearing Length:
Front.
No. 2. . .
No. 3
Out of round and out of taper limits
Direction of Cylinder O f f s e t . . . . . . . . . .
Amount of Cylinder Offset
Crankpin Journal Diameter
Flywheel R u n Out (max.)
CAMSHAFT:
Bearings:
Material..........
Number
Clearance.
Journal Diameter:
Front
Front Intermediate.
Rear Intermediate..
Rear
Bearing Diameter:
Front
Front Intermediate.
Rear Intermediate..
Rear
E n d Play
Drive:
Type.............
Crankshaft Gear. . .
Camshaft Gear
VALVE SYSTEM:
Valve Rotators
Tappets:
Clearance — Cold:
Intake
Exhaust
Clearance for Timing (intake).
72
ENGLISH
METRIC
S A E 1141 Forged Steel
32 oz.
9.187"
907 gr.
23,33 cm.
Removable
Steel-backed Babbitt
1.089" to 1.099"
.001" to .0019"
.001"
.002"
.010"
.012"
.020"
.030"
.004" to .010"
F r o m Above
2,766 a 2,791 cm.
0,025 a 0,0483 mm.
0,025 mm.
0,051 mm.
0,254 mm.
0,305 mm.
0,508 mm.
0,762 mm.
0,102 a 0,254 mm.
.8115" to .8125"
2.0432" to 2.0440"
20,612 a 20,637 mm.
5,1897 a 5,1917 cm.
S A E 1040 Forged Steel
Front Bearing
.004* to .006*
0,102 a 0,152 mm,
Removable
Steel-backed Babbitt
.0003" to .0029*
.001"
.002"
.010"
.012"
.020"
.030"
2.333" to 2.334"
0,0076 a 0,0736 mm.
0,025 mm.
0,051 mm.
0,254 mm.
0,305 mm.
0,508 mm.
0,762 mm.
5,9261 a 5,9286 cm.
4,16 cm.
4,36 cm.
4,21 cm.
0,025 mm.
1.64"
1.72"
1.66"
.001"
Right
.125"
1.9375" to 1,9383
.005"
3,175 mm.
4,9213 a 4,9233 cm.
0,127 mm.
Steel-backed Babbitt (Front only)
4
.001" to .0025"
0,025 a 0,063 mm.
2.1855"
2.1215"
2.0590"
1.6225"
5,5524
5,3911
5,2324
4,1224
a
a
a
a
2.1870" to 2.1890"
2.125" to 2.126"
2.0625" to 2.0635"
1.625" to 1.626"
.004* to .007"
5,5549
5,3975
5,2387
4,1275
0,101
a 5,5600 cm.
a 5,4000 cm.
a 5,2412 cm.
a 4,1300 cm.
a 0,178 mm.
2.1860"
2.1225"
2.0600"
1.6230"
to
to
to
to
5,5511
5,3886
5,2298
4,1211
Helical Gear
Cast Iron
Pressed Fiber-Steel H u b
On Exhaust Valve
.018*
.016*
.026"
0,461 mm.
0,406 mm.
0,660 mm.
cm.
cm.
cm.
cm.
D
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
D-l 13. HURRICANE F4 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)
MODEL:
V A L V E S Y S T E M : (Continued)
Timing:
Intake:
Opens
Closes
Duration
Exhaust:
Opens
Closes
Duration
Valve Opening Overlap
Valves:
Intake:
Material
Length Over A l l .
Head Diameter. . . . . . . . . .
Angle of Seat.
Stem Diameter
Stem-to-Guide Clearance..
Lift
Exhaust:
Material
Length Over All
Head Diameter
Angle of Seat
Seat Insert Material
Stem Diameter
Stem-to-Guide Clearance..
Lift
Springs:
Intake:
Free Length
Standard:
Pressure % Length:
Valve C l o s e d . . . . . . . .
Valve Open
Service Minimum:
Pressure @ Length:
Valve Closed
Valve Open
Exhaust:
Free Length
Pressure @ Length:
Standard:
Valve Closed
Valve Open
Service Minimum:
Valve Closed.
Valve Open
LUBRICATION SYSTEM:
Type of Lubrication:
Main Bearings
Connecting Rods
Piston Pins
Camshaft Bearings
Tappets
Timing Gears.'.
Cylinder Walls
Oil Pump:
Type
Drive
Minimum Safe Oil Pressure:
At Idle
At 2000 rpm. (35 mph.)..
Relief Valve Opens
Normal Oil Pressure
Oil Pressure Sending Unit
Oil Intake
Oil Filter System
ENGLISH
METRIC
9° B T C
50° A B C
239°
47° B B C
12* A T C
239°
21°
S A E 5150
4.781"
2*
46°
.3733" to .3738"
.0007" to .0022'
.260"
12,14 cm.
5,08 cm.
9,481 a 9,494 mm.
0,0178 a 0,0559 mm.
6,604 mm.
Uniloy 21-12
5.909"
1.47"
46°
Eatonite E M S 58
.371" to .372"
.0025" to .0045'
.351"
9,423 a 9,449 mm.
0,0635 a 0,1143 mm.
8,915 mm.
1.97"
5,003 cm.
73 lb. @ 1.66"
153 lb. @ 1.40*
33,1 kg. (i(< 4,216 cm.
69,4 kg. (a. 3,556 cm.
66 lb.
140 lb.
1.66*
) 1.40"
15,008 cm.
3,733 cm.
29,9 kg. (d 4,216 cm.
63,5 kg. ((i 3,556 cm.
6,350 cm.
53 lb. ( 2.109"
120 lb. \ 1.750*
24 kg. (a 5,356 cm.
54,3 kg. (a 4,445 cm.
47 lb. @2W
110 lb. @
l%*
21,3 kg. (n 5, 356cm.
49,9 kg. (« 4,445 cm.
Pressure
Pressure
Splash
Pressure
Splash
Nozzle
Nozzle
Internal Rotor
Camshaft Gear
6 psi.
20 psi.
40 psi.
35 psi. @ 2000 rpm.
Electric
Floating
Partial Flow
0,4
1,4
2,8
2,4 kg-cm
2
kg-cm
kg-cm
kg-cm
@ 2000 rpm.
2
2
2
73
Dl
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
DAUNTLESS V-6 ENGINE
Contents
SUBJECT
GENERAL . . . .
PAR.
..
Dl-1
ENGINE DESCRIPTION
Engine Mounts
D1-2
Dl-3
ENGINE REMOVAL
Dl-4
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
Dl-5
Alternator and Fan Belt
Dl-11
Camshaft . . . .
Dl-26
Cooling F a n and Water Pump. . . . . . . .Dl-12
Crankshaft Front Oil Seal
.Dl-21
Crankshaft Pulley
D1-17
Crankshaft Vibration Damper
Dl-18
Cylinder Head Assembly
Dl-24
Distributor
Dl-9
Exhaust Manifold
.Dl-8
Flywheel
Dl-28
Flywheel Housing and Clutch
Dl-27
Fuel Pump.
...
.
.Dl-10
Intake Manifold and
Carburetor Assembly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . D l - 7
Main Bearing and Crankshaft.
Dl-32
Mounting Engine on Engine Stand. . . . .Dl-6
Oil Dipstick.
Dl-16
Oil Filter
Dl-13
Oil Pan.. . . .
. . . . . . . .Dl-29
Oil Pressure Sending Unit
Dl-15
Oil Pump
Dl-19
Oil Pump Intake Pipe and Screen
Dl-30
Piston and Rod Assembly.
Dl-31
Push Rod and Valve Lifter.
.Dl-25
Rocker Arm Cover
Dl-23
Starter Motor
Dl-14
Timing Chain and Sprocket
Dl-22
Timing Chain Cover
Dl-20
ENGINE CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND R E P A I R
.
.
...
.Dl-33
Camshaft Cleaning and Inspection
Dl-55
Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
and Fitting
.Dl-49
Crankshaft Cleaning
Dl-38
Crankshaft Inspection and Repair
Dl-39
Crankshaft Main Bearing Cleaning
and Inspection
Dl-41
Crankshaft Main Bearings.
Dl-40
Crankshaft Pulley Inspection.
Dl-70
Crankshaft Vibration Damper Inspection. D1-69
Cylinder Block
.Dl-34
Cylinder Block Cleaning
Dl-35
Cylinder Block Inspection
Dl-36
Cylinder Block Repair.
.Dl-37
Cylinder Head and Valve Repair
.Dl-63
Cylinder Head and Valve Cleaning
and Inspection.. .
.Dl-62
Flywheel Cleaning and Inspection
Dl-52
Flywheel Housing Cleaning
and Inspection
Dl-54
Hydraulic Valve Lifter Leakdown Test. .Dl-57
Main Bearing Fitting or
Shim Stock
Dl-42, Dl-43
Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection
.Dl-51
PAR.
SUBJEC
and Inspection. . . . . .Dl-68
Oil Pump Cl(
Oil Pump Intake and Screen Cleaning. . .Dl-50
Piston and Rod Assembly. . . . . . . . . . . . .Dl-48
Piston and Rod Cleaning and Inspection.D1-45
Piston and Rod Disassembly
Dl-44
Piston Fitting
Dl-46
Piston Ring Fitting.
.Dl-47
Ring Gear Replacement.
.Dl-53
Rocker Arm Assembly.
Dl-60
Rocker Arm Cleaning and Inspection. . .Dl-59
Rocker Arm Cover Cleaning
and Inspection
D1-65
Rocker Arm Disassembly
.Dl-58
Timing Chain and Sprocket Inspection. . .Dl-66
Timing Chain Cover Cleaning
and Inspection.. .
Dl-67
Valve Installation
D1-64
Valve Lifter and Push Rod
Cleaning and Inspection. .
Dl-56
Valve Removal
Dl-61
ENGINE REASSEMBLY
Alternator and Fan Belt
Camshaft
Clutch and Flywheel Housing
Cooling Fan..
.
Crankshaft End Play Check. .
Crankshaft Front Oil Seal
Crankshaft Pulley
Crankshaft Vibration Damper
Cylinder Block and Crankshaft
Rear Oil Seals
Cylinder Head Assembly
Distributor
Exhaust Manifold
Flywheel
Fuel Pump.. . . .
Intake Manifold and Carburetor
Assembly
Main Bearing and
Crankshaft Installation
Oil Filter
Oil Level Dipstick
Oil Pan
Oil Pressure Sending Unit
Oil Pump..
Oil Pump Intake and Screen Assembly.
Piston and Rod Installation
Rocker Arm Cover.
Spark Plugs..
Starter Motor
Timing Chain and Sprocket. . . . . . . . . . .
Timing Chain Cover
Valve Lifter and Push Rod
Water Pump.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
Dl-71
Dl-96
Dl-80
Dl-79
.Dl-95
Dl-74
Dl-85
Dl-89
Dl-88
Dl-72
.Dl-82
Dl-99
Dl-98
.Dl-78
Dl-97
Dl-101
. Dl-73
Dl-93
Dl-90
Dl-77
Dl-91
.Dl-87
.Dl-76
Dl-75
Dl-83
Dl-100
Dl-92
.Dl-84
Dl-86
Dl-81
Dl-94
Dl-102
F I N A L I N - V E H I C L E A D J U S T M E N T S . D1-103
S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Dl-104
. .Dl-105
75
Dl
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
D M . GENERAL
This section describes service and repair of the
Dauntless V-6 engine. The engine code number
shown in Fig. A-4 is provided to identify the Dauntless V6-225 engine. The meaning of the coded
letters and numbers that are stamped on the right
front face of the crankcase, just below the rocker
arm cover, between exhaust manifold ports, is given
below.
Letter to
Designate Market
M — Military
E — Export
D — Domestic
Letter to
Designate Year Built
N
P
R
S
T
—
—
—
—
—
1967
1968
1969
1970
1971
Letter to Designate Engine and Compression Ratio
H—V6-225 9.0 to 1 C . R . (2 B b l . Carb.)
Y—V6-225 9.0 to 1 C . R . Marine ( L o w Profile) (2 Bbl.Carb.)
Z—V6-225 9.0 to 1 C . R . Marine (High Profile) (2 B b l . Carb.)
K—V6-225 7.6 to 1 C . R . (2 Bbl. Carb.)
L—V6-225 7.4 to 1 C . R . (2 B b l . Carb.)
Market
J
Service Engine "S"
Short Block " R "
Domestic —
-Oversize Bores " B "
Year "1967"
Engine
Day
Plus Chg. I f A n y -
Undersize Crank
& "A"
Rod Bearings
The identifying letter or letters follow the engine
letters are decoded as follows:
A—.010" Undersize Main and Connecting Rod
Bearings
B—.010" Oversize Pistons
AB—Combination of A and B
S—Service Engine
R—Short Block
All disassembly and assembly procedures are presented in logical order, assuming a complete engine
overhaul with engine removed from the vehicle.
However, many of these procedures can also be
performed as on-vehicle services if vehicle or engine
components are removed to gain access to parts
involved.
Note: Some engines are equipped with an exhaust
emission control system. Service information on
the components of this system is given in section F 2 .
Dl-2. ENGINE DESCRIPTION
The Dauntless V-6 engine has a displacement of
225 cubic inches. It has a compression ratio of
9.0 to 1, which permits use of regular-grade gasoline. See Figs. Dl-1 and D l - 2 .
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. Two banks
of cylinders (three cylinders per bank) are cast
at a 90-degree angle. The lower part of the cylinderblock extends below the centerline of the crankshaft, forming a continuous flat surface with the
rear crankshaft main bearing cap and the timing
chain cover. This design allows installation of an
76
oil pan with a one-piece gasket. The cylinders in
the left bank (as viewed from the driver's seat) are
numbered 1-3-5, from front to rear. The cylinders
in the right bank are numbered 2-4-6, from front
to rear.
The crankshaft is supported in the cylinder block
by four steel-backed full-precision bearings, all of
which have an identical diameter. Crankshaft main
bearings are numbered 1 to 4, front to rear. The
thrust bearing is flanged to maintain crankshaft
position and to compensate against crankshaft end
thrust The No. 2 bearing is the thrust bearing.
The crankshaft is counterbalanced by weights,
which are cast integral with the crank cheeks. The
weights are shaped to a contour which gives minimum clearance with cylinder barrels and piston
skirts to conserve space.
Connecting rods have I-beam sections with bosses
on each side. Metal is removed, as required, to
secure correct weight and balance. The lower end
of each connecting rod has a steel-backed precision bearing. The piston pin is a press fit into
the upper end. The outer ends of the piston pin
are a slide fit in the piston bosses.
The full-skirted, aluminum alloy pistons are cam
ground and tin plated. Two compression rings and
one oil control ring are installed above the piston
pin. The cast iron compression rings in the two
upper grooves of the piston have a groove or
bevel cut around the inner edge on one side. The
top compression ring is installed with this groove
or bevel up. The lower compression ring is installed
with bevel down. The oil ring, in the lower groove,
consists of two thin steel rails separated by a
spacer. It is backed by a hump-type spring-steel
expander.
V-6 engine cylinder heads are made of cast iron.
Their valve guides are cast integrally. Right and
left cylinder heads are identical and interchangeable. In service, however, it is good practice to
install the cylinder heads on the side from which
they were removed.
The valves are in line in each head, at an angle
10° above the centerline of the cylinder bores.
Each valve has a spring strong enough to ensure
positive valve seating throughout the operating
speed range of the engine. The valve rocker arm
mechanism is protected by a sheet metal cover.
This cover is seated on a raised surface of the
cylinder head. It is gasketed to prevent oil leaks.
The rocker arms for each bank of cylinders are
mounted on a tubular steel shaft, supported on
the cylinder head by brackets. The rocker arms
are made of aluminum. They have inserts at the
push rod socket and the valve stem contact face.
The camshaft is located above the crankshaft between the two cylinder banks; it is supported in
four steel-backed babbitt-metal bearings. The camshaft is driven at one-half crankshaft speed by
sprockets and a single outside-guide type chain.
Hydraulic valve lifters and one-piece push rods
operate overhead rocker arms and valves of both
banks of cylinders from a single camshaft. This
system requires no lash adjustment during assembly or in service.
In addition to its normal function of a cam follower,
each hydraulic valve lifter also serves as an auto-
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Dl
©©©©©©©©©
12697
F I G . Dl-1—DAUNTLESS V-6 ENGINE, S I D E SECTIONAL V I E W
1—F a n Blade
2—F a n Spacer
3 — F a n Pulley
4— Water Pump
5—Timing Chain Cover
6— Camshaft Sprocket
7—Thermostat Bypass Hose
8— Thermostat Housing
9— Thermostat
10—Carburetor
11—Intake Manifold
12—Rocker Arm Cover
13—Cylinder Block
14—Push Rod
15— Camshaft
16— Flywheel
17—Clutch Pressure Plate
18—Clutch Driven Plate
19—Clutch Pilot Bearing
20— Oil Seal Packing
21—Rear Main Bearing Shell
2 2 —Connecting Rods
23—Rear Center Main Bearing Shell
24— Oil Screen
2 5 —Oil Screen Pipe and Housing
26— Oil P a n
matic adjuster, to prevent lash in the valve operating linkage. Hydraulic valve lifters also provide
a cushion of oil to absorb operating shocks. As
shown in Fig. Dl-3, all parts of a hydraulic lifter
are housed in the body, which is the cam follower.
At the beginning of valve operation, the valve
lifter body rests on the camshaft base circle.
Plunger spring tension prevents lash clearances in
the valve linkage.
As the camshaft forces the valve lifter body upward, both oil in the lower chamber and check
ball spring tension firmly seat the check ball against
the plunger to prevent appreciable loss of oil from
the lower chamber. Oil pressure forces the plunger
upward, with the body, to operate the valve linkage.
As the camshaft rotates to closed-valve position,
27—Front Center Main Bearing Shell
28— Crankshaft
2 9 —Front Main Bearing Shell
30— Timing Chain
3 1 —Crankshaft Sprocket
3 2 —Oil Slinger
3 3 —Oil Shedder
34 Oil Shedder Packing
35—-Woodruff K e y
36— "Vibration Damper
37— Crankshaft Pulley
3 8 — Fan Belt
the valve spring forces the linkage and lifter downward. When the engine valve seats, the linkage
parts and plunger stop, but the plunger spring forces
the body downward .002" to .003" [0,050 a 0,076
mm.] until it again rests on the camshaft base
circle. Oil pressure then forces the check ball away
from its seat and allows passage of oil past the
check ball into the lower chamber. This replaces
the slight amount of oil lost by leakage. During
the valve opening and closing operation, a very
slight amount of oil escapes between plunger and
body, and returns to the crankcase. This slight
loss of oil (leak-down) is beneficial. It provides a
gradual change of oil in the valve lifter; fresh oil
enters the lower chamber at the end of each cycle
of operation.
77
01
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
14358
FIG. Dl-2—DAUNTLESS
1— Exhaust Valve
2—Exhaust Valve Spring
3 —Rocker A r m Cover
4——Exhaust Valve Spring Retainer
5—Exhaust Rocker Arm
6— Rocker A r m Shaft
7—p h Rod
8— Tappet
9— Tappet Cover
u s
V-6 E N G I N E , F R O N T S E C T I O N A L V I E W
10— Cylinder Head
11—Rocker A r m Shaft
12—Intake Rocker A r m
13—Intake Valve Spring Retainer
14— Intake Valve Spring
15—Intake Valve
16— Spark Plug
17—Water Passages
18—Exhaust Manifold
The engine is pressure lubricated. The oil pump
is located on the timing chain cover and discharges
oil through an oil filter into main oil galleries in
the crankcase to deliver oil to all crankshaft and
camshaft bearings. Piston pins are lubricated by78
19— Piston
20— Camshaft
21— Crankshaft
22—Main Bearing Cap
23—Oil Pan
24— Crankcase
25—Connecting Rod
splash. The timing chain is lubricated by splash
of an oil stream from which oil is directed to the
distributor drive gear from the fuel pump eccentric
on the camshaft. Rocker arms are lubricated from
the oil galleries in the cylinder block through pas-
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
12710
F I G . D1 - 3 — H Y D R A U L I C V A L V E L I F T E R
ASSEMBLY, CROSS-SECTIONAL VIEW
1 — Snap Ring
2 — Rod Seat
3 — Oil Inlets
4 — Plunger
5— Feed Hole
6 — B a l l Retainer
7—Plunger Spring
8 — L i f t e r Body
9—Bronzed Cap
sages in the block and cylinder head.
The water cooled system is pressurized to provide
efficient engine cooling. It consists of a centrifugaltype water pump, mounted on the timing chain
cover, and is driven by the engine fan pulley. The
pump provides coolant flow equally to both cylinder banks under control of a thermostat. Coolant
flow is around the cylinders and through the
cylinder head to dispel the heat of combustion in
the engine.
Dl-3. Engine Mounts
The engine-transmission unit is mounted to the
chassis at three points by rubber pads. The two
front mounts are bolted to the engine cylinder
block and the frame members. These mounts support most of the engine weight, and absorb vibration which would otherwise be caused by changes
in engine output torque. The single rear mount is
placed between the transmission and the transmission support. It supports part of the engine'
and transmission weight, and locates the rear of
the engine with respect to the centerline of the
vehicle.
Dl-4. ENGINE REMOVAL
To remove the engine from the vehicle follow the
procedurers listed below:
a. Remove hood.
b. Disconnect battery cables from battery and
engine.
Dl
c. Remove air cleaner.
d. Drain coolant from radiator and engine.
e. Drain engine oil.
f. Disconnect alternator wiring harness from connector at regulator.
cj. Disconnect the fuel evaporative purge line connected to the P.C.V. valve.
h. Disconnect upper and lower radiator hoses from
the engine.
i. Remove right and left radiator support bars,
j. Remove radiator from the vehicle.
k. Disconnect engine wiring harnesses from connectors located on engine firewall.
I. On engines equipped with exhaust emission control, remove the air pump, air distribution manifold,
and anti-backfire (gulp) valve. See Section F 2 for
procedure.
m. Disconnect battery cable and wiring from engine starter assembly.
n. Remove engine starter assembly from engine,
o. Disconnect engine fuel hoses from fuel lines at
right frame rail,
p. Plug fuel lines.
q. Disconnect choke cable from carburetor and
cable support bracket mounted on engine,
r. Disconnect exhaust pipes from right and left
engine manifolds.
s. Place jack under transmission and support transmission weight.
f. Remove bolts securing engine to front motor
mounts.
u. Attach suitable sling to engine lifting eyes and,
using hoist, support engine weight.
v. Remove bolts securing engine to flywheel
housing.
w. Raise engine slightly and slide engine forward
to remove transmission main shaft from clutch
plate spline.
Note: Engine and transmission must be raised
slightly to release the main shaft from the clutch
plate while sliding the engine forward.
x. When engine is free of transmission shaft raise
engine and remove from vehicle,
y. Place engine on suitable blocking or engine
stand and remove sling from engine.
Dl-5. ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
Engine disassembly is presented in the sequence to
be followed when the engine is to be completely
overhauled after removal from the vehicle. Some
of the operations of the procedure are also applicable separately with the engine in the vehicle,
provided that wherever necessary the part of the
engine to be worked on is first made accessible
by removal of engine accessories or other parts.
When the disassembly operations are performed
with the engine out of the vehicle, it is assumed,
in this procedure, that all of the accessories have
been removed prior to starting the disassembly and
the oil has been drained.
Dl
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
In addition to the instructions covering operations
for disassembling the engine out of the vehicle,
special instructions are given to cover different
operations required when disassembly is done with
the engine installed.
During disassembly operations, the engine should
be mounted in a suitable engine repair stand.
Where practicable, modify or adapt an existing repair stand as necessary to accommodate the engine.
If an engine repair stand is not used, take care to
perform disassembly operations in a manner that
will protect personnel against an accident and the
engine and its parts against damage.
Dl-6.
Mounting Engine On Engine Stand
Refer to Fig. Dl-4.
a. With the engine supported by a hoist, remove
the clutch housing and clutch. Match mark the
flywheel and the clutch cover before disassembly
to assure proper reassembly.
b. Position the engine on the engine stand.
c. Release some tension of the hoist cables and
secure engine to stand.
d. Make sure the position lock on the engine stand
is tight to prevent the engine from accidentally
inverting.
e. Release the hoist cables.
two distributor leads from ignition coil. Disconnect
wiring harness from coolant temperature sending
unit. Remove ten cap bolts which attach intake
manifold to cylinder heads. Remove intake manifold assembly and gaskets from engine.
Dl-8. Remove Exhaust Manifold
The engine has two exhaust manifolds. Remove
five attaching screws, one nut, and exhaust manifold from each cylinder head.
Dl-9.
Remove Distributor
Disconnect vacuum hose and wiring harness from
distributor. Disconnect spark plug cables from
spark plugs. Remove sparks plugs from engine. Pull
spark plug cable retainers from brackets on rocker
arm covers. Remove mounting screw, retainer
bracket, and distributor from timing chain cover.
If timing chain and sprockets are not to be removed from engine, note position of distributor
rotor so that it can be installed in identical position.
Dl-10. Remove Fuel Pump
Disconnect output fuel line from fuel pump. Remove two mounting bolts, fuel pump, and gasket
from timing chain cover.
Dl-11. Remove Alternator and Fan Belt
Disconnect wiring harness from alternator. Remove
nut and flat washer which fasten alternator to
adjustment bracket. Pivot alternator inward, toward engine cylinder block, to relieve fan belt
tension. Remove fan belt from pulleys. Remove
two attaching screws, mounting bracket, and alternator from right cylinder head of engine.
Dl-12. Remove Cooling Fan and Water Pump
Refer to Fig. Dl-5.
Remove four cap screws, lock washers, cooling fan,
fan hub, and fan drive pulley from flange of water
pump shaft. Remove nine attaching screws, water
pump, alternator adjustment bracket, and water
pump from timing chain cover.
Dl-13. Remove Oil Filter
Unscrew oil filter from engine oil pump.
Dl-14. Remove Starter Motor
Disconnect wiring harness from starter motor and
solenoid. Remove two attaching screws, starter
motor, solenoid, and motor attaching bracket from
engine flywheel housing and cylinder block.
Dl-15. Remove Oil Pressure Sending Unit
Disconnect wiring harness from oil pressure sending unit. Remove oil pressure sending unit from
engine cylinder block.
F I G . D1 - 4 — E N G I N E M O U N T E D O N S T A N D
1— Spacer J-8690-6
2 — Bolt, 3/a-NC x 4*/ "
3— Engine Mounting Stand
2
Dl-7.
A—Bolt, i / - N C x 3 i / "
5—Adapter 21316-J
2
2
Remove Intake Manifold and
Carburetor Assembly
Disconnect crankcase vent hose, distributor vacuum
hose, and fuel line from carburetor. Disconnect
80
Dl-16. Remove Oil Dipstick
Withdraw and remove oil level dipstick and dipstick tube from engine cylinder block.
Dl-17. Remove Crankshaft Pulley
Remove six attaching screws and crankshaft pulley
from crankshaft vibration damper.
Dl
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
13296
FIG. Dl-5—ENGINE LUBRICATION AND COOLING PARTS
1— Bolt and Lock Washer
2— F a n Assembly
3 — F a n and Alternator Belt
4— F a n Driven Pulley
5— Water Pump Assembly
6— Hose Clamp
7— Thermostat Bypass Hose
8—Hex Head Bolt
9— Water Outlet Elbow
10— Water Outlet Elbow Gasket
11— Thermostat
12— Water Pump Gasket
13— Impeller and Insert, Water Pump
14— Water Pump Seal
15— Dowel Pin % x Vfc"
16— Water Pump Cover
17— Bolt, 1/4-20 x 1"
18— Water Pump Shaft and Bearing
19—F a n Hub
20—- O i l Suction Pipe Gasket
21— Oil Suction Housing, Pipe and Flange
22— Bolt, y -20 x s/ "
23— Oil Pump Screen
24— Oil Dipstick
25— Oil Pan Gasket
26— Oil Pan Assembly
27— Drain Plug Gasket
28— Drain Plug
4
Dl-13. Remove Crankshaft Vibration Damper
Refer to Fig. Dl-6.
Remove cap screw and flat washer which attach
crankshaft vibration damper to crankshaft. Tap
vibration damper with a soft-headed hammer to
remove it from crankshaft.
Dl-19. Remove Oil Pump
Remove five screws, oil pump cover, and gasket
from right side of timing chain cover. Remove
two oil pump gears.
D1-20. Remove Timing Chain Cover
Refer to Fig. Dl-6.
Remove two bolts which attach oil pan to timing
chain cover. Remove five mounting bolts, timing
chain cover, and gasket from cylinder block of
engine.
Note: Water pump must be removed from timing
chain cover before timing chain cover is removed
from cylinder block.
8
29— Screw and Lock Washer #6-18
%
30— Oil Pump Shaft and Gear
3 1 — Oil Pump Cover Gasket
3 2 — Valve Bypass and Cover Assembly
3 3 — Oil Pressure Valve
34— Valve Bypass Spring
3 5 — Oil Pressure Valve Cap Gasket
36— Oil Pressure Valve Cap
37— Screw V -20 x lVg"
38— Screw 1/4-20 x
1W'
39— F a n Driving Pulley
40— Hex. Head Bolt,
x 1"
x
4
Dl-21. Remove Crankshaft Front Oil Seal
Refer to Fig. Dl-6.
Use timing cover aligner and oil seal remover tool
J-22248 to remove oil seal.
Dl-22. Remove Timing Chain and Spocket
a. Temporarily install vibration damper (Fig.
D l - 6 ) bolt and washer in end of crankshaft. Turn
crankshaft so sprockets are positioned with index
marks aligned as shown in Fig. Dl-7. This will
make it easier to install parts. Remove vibration
damper bolt and washer; rap the wrench handle
sharply to start the bolt without changing position
of sprockets.
Note: It is not necessary to remove timing chain
dampers unless they are worn or damaged and
require replacement.
b. Remove front crankshaft oil slinger.
c. Remove bolt and special washer which retain
camshaft distributor drive gear and fuel pump
eccentric at forward end of camshaft. Remove gear
and eccentric from camshaft.
81
Dl
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
d. Use two large screwdrivers to alternately pry
forward the camshaft sprocket and then the crankshaft sprocket, until the camshaft sprocket is pried
from the camshaft. Remove the camshaft sprocket,
sprocket key, and timing chain from the engine;
then pry the crankshaft sprocket from the crankshaft.
Dl-23. Remove Rocker Arm Cover
Refer to Fig. Dl-8.
Remove positive crankcase ventilator valve from
right rocker arm cover. Remove four screws which
attach each rocker arm cover to cylinder head.
Remove each rocker arm cover and gasket from
cylinder head.
14198
FIG. Dl-6—ENGINE CRANKCASE
1— Connecting Rod Assy.
2——Piston Pin
3 — Piston and P i n Assy.
4— Ring Set
5— Connecting Rod Bolt and N u t
6— Connecting Rod Bearing
7— Damper Spring
8— Damper Bolt
9— T i m i n g Chain Damper (Right)
10— Cylinder Block
11— Camshaft
12— Woodruff K e y
13—Camshaft Bearing ( N o . 1 F r o n t )
14— Camshaft Bearing ( N o . 2)
15— Camshaft Bearing ( N o . 3)
82
PARTS
16— Camshaft Bearing (No. 4 Rear)
17—Camshaft Plug (Rear)
18— Flywheel
19—R i n g Gear
20— Crankshaft Bearing Set
21— M a i n Bearing O i l Seal (Rear)
2 2—Crankshaft
23—Main Bearing Packing Oil Seal (Rear)
24— Bearing Cap Bolt
25—Woodruff Key
26— T i m i n g Chain Damper (Left)
27— Damper Bolt
28— Timing Chain
29— Camshaft Sprocket
30— Crankshaft Sprocket
31- —Crankshaft Slinger
32- —Crankshaft Shedder
33- —Crankshaft Packing (Front)
34- —Timing Gear Cover Gasket
35- —Timing Gear Cover
36- —Vibration Damper
3 7- - B o l t
28- -Washer
39- - B o l t
40- —Dowel P i n
41- -Camshaft Thrust Retainer and Bolt
42- —Washer
43- -Distributor Drive Gear
44- —Fuel Pump Eccentric
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Dl
clutch will be installed in identical position when
engine is assembled.
c. Remove six attaching screws and clutch assembly from flywheel.
D1-28. Remove Flywheel
Refer to Fig. Dl-6.
Remove six attaching bolts and flywheel from
engine crankshaft.
Dl-29. Remove Oil Pan
Refer to Fig. Dl-5.
To gain access to oil pan mounting bolts, invert
the engine. Remove mounting bolts, oil pan, and
gasket from engine cylinder block.
Dl-30. Remove Oil Pump Intake Pipe and Screen
Refer to Fig. Dl-5.
Remove two attaching screws, and oil pump intake
pipe and screen assembly from engine cylinder
block.
14028 j
Dl-31. Remove Piston and
Connecting Rod Assembly
a. Examine the cylinder bores. If bores are worn
so that shoulder or ridges exist at the top of piston
ring travel, remove the ridges with a ridge reamer.
FIG. D1-7—TIMING CHAIN AND
SPROCKET
ALIGNMENT
1 — Camshaft Sprocket
2 — Crankshaft
3 — T i m i n g Chain
Timing Marks
Dl-24. Remove Cylinder Head Assembly
a. Unscrew, but do not remove, three bolts (Fig.
Dl-8) which attach rocker arm assembly to cylinder
head. Remove rocker arm assembly, with bolts,
from cylinder head. See Section F2 for engines
equipped with exhaust emission control.
b. Remove eight cylinder head bolts, cylinder head,
and gasket from cylinder block.
Dl-25. Remove Push Rod and Valve Lifter
Refer to Fig. Dl-8.
Remove push rods and valve lifters from the cylinder block. Mark, or otherwise identify, each valve
lifter according to its cylinder and valve position.
Note: If valve lifters are not to be serviced, cover
valve lifters and camshaft with a clean cloth to
protect them from dirt
Dl-26. Remove Camshaft
Refer to Fig. Dl-6.
Carefully withdraw camshaft forward from bearing bores; avoid marring the bearing surfaces. Remove camshaft from cylinder block.
Dl-27. Remove Flywheel Housing and Clutch
a. If flywheel housing and clutch was not previously removed, remove six mounting bolts and
flywheel housing from cylinder block.
b. Mark clutch cover and flywheel to assure that
FIG. Dl-8- -CYLINDER HEAD, ROCKER A R M
AND COVER
1——Right Rocker A r m Cover14—Intake Valve
2— Rocker Arm Cover Bolt 15— Exhaust Valve
16— Dowel P i n
3 — Gasket
17—Valve Spring
4— Bolt
18—Valve Spring Cap
5 — Baffle
6— Left Rocker A r m Cover 19—Valve Spring Cap Key
2 0 — Cotter P i n
7—Rocker Arm Shaft
2 1 —Rocker A r m Shaft E n d Washer
8—Plug
22— Rocker A r m Shaft Spring
9—Rocker Arm Spring
23— Rocker A r m
10—Cylinder Head
24—Rocker A r m Shaft Bracket
11—Head Gasket
25— Bolt
12— Push Rod
13— Valve Lifter
83
Dl
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
This will prevent damage to piston rings or cracking piston lands during removal.
b. Use a silver pencil or quick-drying paint to mark
the cylinder number on all pistons, connecting rods,
and caps. Starting at the front end of the crankcase,
the cylinders in the right bank are numbered 2-4-6
and in the left bank are numbered 1-3-5.
c. Remove cap and lower connecting rod bearing
half from No. 1 connecting rod.
d. Push the piston and rod assembly away from
the crankshaft and remove it from top of cylinder
bore. Then install cap and lower bearing half on
connecting rod.
e. Remove each connecting rod and piston assembly as described in c and d, above.
Dl-33. ENGINE CLEANING, INSPECTION,
A N D REPAIR
The cleaning, inspection, and repair procedures
detailed herein are recommended to be followed
when a complete engine overhaul is to be made
with the engine out of the vehicle. These instructions can generally be applied individually with the
engine in the vehicle. Wherever the procedure differs due to the engine being in the vehicle, the
necessary special instructions are provided. Inspection and repair instructions are included to cover
the cylinder block, cylinder head, crankshaft and
bearings, connecting rods and bearings, oil pump,
valves and tappets, pistons and rings, flywheel,
timing gears, and the camshaft and bearings. In
addition, fitting operations for these engine components are included.
D1-34. Cylinder Block
The cylinder block must be cleaned thoroughly,
inspected, and repaired as necessary, as described
below.
Dl-35. Cylinder Block Cleaning
Steam-clean the cylinder block, or clean it with
a suitable cleaning solvent A scraper can be used
to remove hard deposits, but do not score machined
surfaces. Be certain that oil passages, valve chambers, crankcase, and cylinder walls are free from
sludge, dirt, and carbon deposits. After cleaning,
dry the cylinder block carefully with compressed
air.
FIG. D1-9—CRANKSHAFT MAIN B E A R I N G
CAPS
1—Thrust Bearing
D1-32. Remove Main Bearing and Crankshaft
a. This engine has four crankshaft main bearings.
Front to rear, they are numbered 1 to 4. Refer to
Fig. Dl-9. With a silver pencil or quick-drying
paint, mark the bearing number on each main
bearing cap.
b. Remove two bolts which secure first (front)
main bearing cap to engine cylinder block. With
a lifting bar, carefully pry the cap from the crankshaft and block. Be careful not to damage the cap,
block or crankshaft. Remove the bearing cap, with
lower main bearing half, from the cylinder block.
Keep bearing half and cap together. Similarly,
remove the next two main bearing caps with lower
main bearing halves. To remove rear main bearing
cap, use rear main bearing remover bolt W-323.
c. Remove the fabric seal from inside diameter of
fourth (rear) main bearing cap, and remove neoprene composition seal from outer surface of this
bearing cap. Discard both seals.
d. Lift and remove the crankshaft from engine
cylinder block. Do not remove upper main bearing
halves from block or lower main bearing halves
from caps at this time. Mount main bearing caps
in their original positions.
84
Dl-36. Cylinder Block Inspection
a. Inspect cylinder walls visually for scoring,
roughness, or ridges which indicate excessive wear.
Check cylinder bores for taper and out-of-round
with an accurate cylinder gauge. Measure eact
bore at top, middle and bottom, both parallel tc
and at right angles to the centerline of the engine
The diameter of the cylinder bores at any poin
FIG. Dl-10—MEASURING C Y L I N D E R
1—Telescope Gauge [90* From Piston P i n ]
BORE
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E
MANUAL
Dl
also furnished in .010" [0,254 mm.] oversize. All
service pistons are diamond bored, and selectively
fitted with piston pins; pistons are not furnished
without pins.
Caution: Do not attempt to cut down oversize pistons to fit cylinder bores as this will destroy the
surface treatment and affect the weight. The smallest possible oversize service pistons should be used
and the cylinder bores should be honed to size
for proper clearance.
12713
FIG. Dl-11—MEASURING T E L E S C O P E
GAUGE
1—Telescope Gauge
2— Micrometer
may be measured with an inside micrometer or
by setting the cylinder gauge dial at zero and measuring across the gauge contact points with an outside micrometer while the gauge is at same zero
setting. Refer to Figs. Dl-10 and Dl-11.
b. If a cylinder bore is moderately rough or slightly
scored, but is not out-of-round or tapered, it is
usually possible to remedy the situation by honing
the bore to fit a standard service piston, since
standard service pistons are high-limit production
pistons. If cylinder bore is very rough or deeply
scored, it may be necessary to rebore the cylinder
to fit an oversize piston in order to ensure satisfactory results.
c. If cylinder bore is tapered .005" [0,127 mm.]
or more or is out-of-round .003" [0,076 mm.] or
more, it is advisable to rebore for the smallest
possible oversize piston and rings.
d. Carefully inspect the cylinder block for small
cracks or fractures, and for porosity. Rust in any
cylinder bore may indicate a leak.
e. Inspect all machined surfaces for scoring and
burrs. With a straight edge and feeler gauge, check
each machined surface for distortion.
D1-37. Cylinder Block Repair
If one or more cylinder bores are rough, scored, or
worn beyond prescribed limits, it will be necessary
to correct bores and fit new pistons.
If relatively few bores require correction, it will
not be necessary to rebore all cylinders to the same
oversize in order to maintain engine balance, since
all oversize pistons are held to the same weights as
standard-size pistons. If conditions justify replacement of all pistons, however, all new pistons should
be the same nominal size.
Standard-size service pistons are high-limit, or
maximum diameter; therefore, they can usually
be installed after a slight amount of honing has
been done to correct slight scoring or excessive
clearances. This applies primarily to engines which
have relatively low mileage. Service pistons are
Before honing or reboring cylinders, measure all
new pistons with a micrometer, on an axis perpendicular to the piston pin. Select the smallest piston
for the first fitting. The slight variation usually
found between pistons in a set may provide for
correction in case the first piston tried is too
small.
If wear at top of cylinder does not exceed .005"
[0,127 mm.] excess diameter, or exceed .003"
[0,076 mm.] out-of-round, honing is recommended.
If wear or out-of-round exceeds these limits, the
bore should be reground with a boring bar of the
fly cutter type, then finish-honed.
When reboring cylinders, all crankshaft bearing
caps must be in place and tightened to proper
torque to avoid distortion of bores in final assembly. Always be sure the crankshaft is out of the
way of the boring cutter when boring each cylinder.
When boring, leave the diameter .001" [0,025 mm.]
undersize, then finish hone to obtain the required
clearance.
When honing cylinders, use clean sharp stones of
proper grade for the amount of metal to be removed. Refer to instructions supplied by the hone
manufacturer. Dull or dirty stones cut unevenly
and generate excessive heat. When using coarse
or medium grade stones, leave sufficient metal so
that all stone marks can be removed with the fine
stones used to finish-hone to proper clearance.
When finish-honing, pass the hone through the
entire length of cylinder at a rate of approximately
60 cycles per minute. This should produce the
desired 45-degree cross hatch pattern on cylinder
walls. A proper pattern will ensure maximum ring
life and minimum oil consumption.
After final honing and before the piston is checked
for fit, each cylinder bore must be washed thoroughly to remove all traces of abrasive, then dried
completely. The dry bore should be brushed clean
with a power-driven fibre brush. If all traces of
abrasive are not removed, rapid wear of new pistons
and rings will result.
Note: Wipe cylinder bores with a clean white
cloth, moistened with S A E 10 oil. Cleaning should
continue until this test shows no sign of dirt.
It is of the greatest importance that refinished
cylinder bores be true, with .0005" [0,013 mm.]
or less out-of-round or taper. Each bore must have
a smooth surface, without stone or cutter marks.
After final honing and cleaning, each piston must
be fitted individually to the bore in which it will
be installed. Once fitted, each piston should be
marked with its cylinder number to assure correct
installation.
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D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
Dl-38. Crankshaft Cleaning
Clean the crankshaft thoroughly with a suitable
cleaning solvent. Clean drilled oil passages in its
journals with a small rifle brush to remove all
sludge or gum deposits; dry passages with compressed air.
Dl-39. Crankshaft Inspection and Repair
If the crankshaft has not been removed from the
cylinder block for inspection, disconnect two connecting rods at a time from crankshaft. Inspect
the bearings and crankpin journals. While turning
crankshaft, it is necessary to temporarily reconnect
the rods to crankshaft to avoid possibility of damaging the journals through contact with unconnected rods.
Inspect the crankpins visually for excessive or irregular wear, and for scoring. Use an outside
micrometer to check crankpins for out-of-round.
Standard crankpin diameter is 2.0000" [5,080 cm.].
If crankpins are more than .0015" [0,0381 mm.]
out-of-round, new bearings cannot be expected to
have satisfactory life.
If the crankshaft has been removed from the cylinder block for inspection support it on V-blocks
at its main bearing journals 1 and 4. Inspect the
main bearing journals visually for excessive or irregular wear, and for scoring. Standard main bearing journal diameter is 2.4995" [6,349 cm.]. Total
indicator readings at each journal should not exceed .003" [0,076 mm.].
Check run out at all four journals and note high
spot (maximum eccentricity) of each journal. High
spot of each journal should come at the same
angular location. If high spots do not coincide,
crankshaft is misaligned and unsatisfactory for
service.
If crankpin or main bearing journals are scored,
ridged, or out-of-round, the crankshaft must be
replaced or reground to a standard undersize bearing diameter to ensure satisfactory life of bearings.
Slight roughness can be removed with a fine grit
polishing cloth thoroughly wetted with engine oil.
Burrs can be honed with a fine oil stone, so long as
bearing clearances will remain within specified
limits.
never be filed flush with parting surface of crankcase or bearing cap.
Crankshaft bearings are the precision type which
do not require reaming to size or other fitting.
Shims are not provided for adjustment since worn
bearings are readily replaced with new bearings
of proper size. Bearings for service replacement are
furnished in standard size and undersizes. Under
no circumstances should crankshaft bearing caps
be filed to adjust for wear in old bearings.
Dl-41. Crankshaft Main Bearing Cleaning
and Inspection
Clean main bearing surfaces. Inspect the bearings
visually for excessive or uneven wear, scoring, and
flaking. Visibly worn or damaged bearings must
be replaced. It is necessary to check radial clearance of each new or used crankshaft main bearing
before installation. This can be done by either of
two methods, which are described in Pars. Dl-42
and Dl-43.
a. The desired radial clearance of a new bearing
is .0005" to .0021" [0,0127 a 0,0534 mm.].
b. Replacement bearings are furnished in standard
size, and in several undersizes, including undersizes
for reground journals. If a new bearing is to be
installed, try a standard size; then try each undersize in turn until one is found that meets the
specified clearance limits.
Note: Each undersize bearing half has a number
stamped on its outer surface to indicate amount
of undersize. Refer to Fig. Dl-12.
Dl-40. Crankshaft Main Bearings
A crankshaft bearing consists of two halves which
are neither alike nor interchangeable. One half is
carried in the corresponding main bearing cap; the
other half is located between the crankshaft and
cylinder block. The upper (cylinder block) half
of the bearing is grooved to supply oil to the connecting rod bearings, while the lower (bearing cap)
half of the bearing is not grooved. The two bearing
halves must not be interchanged. All crankshaft
bearings except the thrust bearing and the rear
main bearing are identical. The thrust bearing
(No. 2) is longer and it is flanged to take crankshaft end thrust. When the bearing halves are
placed in cylinder block and bearing cap, the ends
extend slightly beyond the parting surfaces. When
cap bolts are tightened, the halves are clamped
tightly in place to ensure positive seating and to
prevent turning. The ends of bearing halves must
86
14288
FIG. Dl-12—LOCATION OF UNDERSIZE
ON B E A R I N G S H E L L
MARK
1 — Tang
2 — Undersize Mark
Dl-42. Main Bearing Fitting, Plastigage
Bearing clearance can be checked by use of Plastigage, Type PG-1 (green) which has a range of
.001" to .003" [0,025 a 0,076 mm.]. Refer to
Fig. Dl-13.
a. Place a piece of Plastigage lengthwise along
the bottom center of the lower bearing half, then
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Dl
crankshaft journal surface; wipe both surfaces carefully, and apply clean engine oil to both surfaces.
Position the bearing cap to the crankshaft journal
and cylinder block, and install two cap bolts loosely.
Tighten alternate cap bolts, a little at a time, to
final specified torque of 80 to 110 lb-ft. [11,1 a
15,2 kg-m.]. The crankshaft should now rotate
freely.
Dl-44. Piston and Connecting Rod Disassembly
A
8
j
13415
FIG. Dl-13—USING PLASTIGAGE T O M E A S U R E
BEARING CLEARANCE
1—Plastigage
2— Scale
A—Start
B—Flattened
install cap with shell and tighten bolts 80 to
110 lb-ft. [11,1 a 15,2 kg-m.] torque.
a. Remove two compression rings with a piston
ring expander. To remove oil ring, remove the two
rails and spacer-expander, which are separate pieces
in each piston third groove.
b. From Tool Set W-338 use support base J-6047-1
with collar J-6047-5 and driver J-6047-4 with an
arbor press to press piston pin from piston and connecting rod. Mount support base and collar in press.
Set driver in position and press out pin. Refer to
Fig. Dl-14.
Caution: Do not turn crankshaft with Plastigage
in bearing.
b. Remove bearing cap with bearing half. The
flattened Plastigage will adhere either to the bearing half or the journal. Do not remove it.
c. Using the scale printed on the Plastigage envelope, measure Plastigage width at its widest
point. The number within the graduation which
most closely corresponds to the width of Plastigage indicates the bearing clearance in thousandths
of an inch.
DI-43. Main Bearing Fitting, Feeler or Shim Stock
A small strip of feeler or shim stock can be used
to check main bearing clearance. The method is
simple, but care must be taken to avoid damage
to the bearing surface from excessive pressure
against the strip.
a. Cut a rectangular piece of feeler or shim stock,
.001" [.0254 mm.] thick, i / " [12,70 mm.] wide, and
Vs" [3,175 mm.] shorter than the bearing width.
Position the bearing cap to the crankshaft journal
and cylinder block, and install two cap bolts loosely.
b. Tighten alternate cap bolts, a little at a time,
until both have been tightened to 35 to 45 lb-ft.
[4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.] torque.
c. Turn the crankshaft by hand, no more than one
inch [2,5 cm.] in either direction.
2
Caution: If the crankshaft is turned too far, it will
embed the strip in the bearing surface. This will
damage the bearing and also cause a false indication of bearing clearance.
If bearing clearance is correct, the strip should
cause a light to heavy drag, or resistance to rotation.
If there is little or no drag, clearance is too great;
if the crankshaft cannot be turned, clearance is
insufficient. In either case, a different main bearing must be selected to obtain proper clearance.
d. Repeat steps a, b, and c, as necessary, to select
proper main bearing size. After a bearing has been
selected, remove the test strip from bearing on
FIG. Dl-14—PISTON PIN R E M O V A L
1—Arbor Press
2— Driver
3 — Piston and Rod Assembly
4— Collar
• 5—Support Base
Dl-45. Piston and Connecting Rod Cleaning
and Inspection
a. Clean carbon from piston surfaces and underside of piston heads, and remove all pistons rings.
Clean carbon from ring grooves with a suitable tool.
Remove any gum or varnish from piston skirts
with a suitable solvent.
b. Carefully examine pistons for rough or scored
bearing surfaces, cracks in skirt or head, cracked
or broken ring lands, chipping and uneven wear
87
Pi
DAUNTLESS ¥-6 ENGINE
which would cause rings to seat improperly or have
excessive clearance in ring grooves. Damaged or
faulty pistons should be replaced,
c. Inspect bearing surfaces of piston pins and check
for wear by measuring worn and unworn surfaces
with a micrometer. Rough or worn pins should be
replaced. Test fit the piston pins in piston bosses.
Occasionally, a pin will be tight due to gum or
varnish deposits. This may be corrected by removing the deposit with a suitable solvent. If piston
bosses are worn out-of-round or oversize, the piston
and pin assembly must be replaced. Oversize pins
are not practical, since the pin must be a press fit
in the connecting rod bore. Piston pins must fit the
piston with an easy finger push at 70°F. [21°C.].
They should have .0004" to .0007" [0,0178 a
0,0102 mm.] clearance.
Dl-46. Piston Fitting
If cylinder bores are rebored or heavily honed,
new and possibly oversize diameter pistons must be
installed. A new piston must be fitted to its cylinder
bore. A satisfactory method of fitting pistons is as
follows.
a. Expand a telescope gauge to fit the cylinder
bore at right angles to the piston pin and between
1 Vi" to 2" [3,7 a 5,1 cm.] from the top.
b. Measure diameter of the piston to be fitted, as
shown in Fig. Dl-15. The piston must be measured
at right angles to the piston pin, W [6,3 mm.]
below the oil ring groove. The piston must be be-
measured with a micrometer applied to the skirt
along a line perpendicular to axis of the piston pin.
Dl-47. Piston Ring Fitting
When new piston rings are to be installed without
reboring cylinders, the glazed cylinder walls should
be slightly dulled. However, cylinder bore diameter
should not increase more than necessary. Cylinder
walls should be honed with the finest grade of
stone to remove any glaze.
New compression rings must be checked for clearance in piston grooves and for gap in cylinder bores;
however, the flexible oil rings are not checked for
gap. The cylinder bores and piston grooves must
be clean, dry, and free of carbon and burrs.
With rings installed on piston, check clearance in
grooves by inserting feeler gauge between each ring
and its lower land. Any ring groove wear will form
a step at inner portion of the lower land. If the
piston grooves have worn enough that relatively
high steps exist on the lower lands, the piston
should be replaced because the steps will interfere
with proper operation of new rings and the ring
clearances will be excessive. Piston rings are not
furnished in oversize widths to compensate for ring
groove wear.
When fitting new rings to new pistons, the side
clearance of the compression rings should be .002"
to .0035" [0,051 a 0,089 mm.] for number one (1)
ring, .003" to .005" [0,076 a 0,127 mm.] for number
two (2) ring, and side clearance of the oil ring
should be .0015" to .0085" [0,038 a 0,220 mm.].
To check the end gap of a compression ring, place
it in the cylinder in which it will be used, square
it in the bore by tapping with the lower end of
a piston, then measure the gap with a feeler gauge.
A compression ring should not have less than
.015" [0,381 mm.] gap when placed in cylinder
bore. If gap is less than specified value, file the
end of the ring carefully with a fine file to obtain
proper gap.
Dl-48. Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly
Note: A connecting rod can spring out of alignment
in shipping or handling. Always check a new connecting rod for misalignment before installing piston and pin.
FIG. Dl-15—MEASURING PISTON
1—90°
tween .001" and .0015" [0,025 a 0,038 mm.]
smaller than the cylinder bore.
Note: Both cylinder block and piston must be at
very nearly the same temperature when measurements are made or errors due to expansion will
occur. A difference of 10°F. [ 5 , 6 ° C ] between parts
is sufficient to produce a variation of .0009"
[0,0023 mm.].
The pistons are cam-ground, which means that the
diameter at a right angle to the piston pin is
greater than the diameter parallel to the piston
pin. When a piston is checked for size, it must be
88
a. If a new connecting rod is to be installed, check
its alignment with an accurate rod alignment fixture.
b. If the piston and connecting rod assembly is
to be installed in the left cylinder bank, it must be
assembled as shown in Fig. Dl-16. If the piston and
connecting rod assembly is to be installed in the
right cylinder bank, it must be assembled as shown
in Fig. Dl-17. Note that these two assemblies are
mirror-images of each other.
c. Lubricate piston pin to avoid damage when
pressing through the connecting rod.
d. T o install piston pin in piston and connecting
rod, use Tool Set W-338. Install collar J-6047-5,
spring J-6047-3, and pilot J-6047-20 into the base
support J-6047-1 and place in arbor press. Using
driver J-6047-4 press piston pin into piston and
Dl
5
'Jeep U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
connecting rod until pin bottoms. Refer to Fig.
Dl-18.
e. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly
from press. Rotate piston on pin to be certain that
pin was not damaged during the pressing operation.
FIG. Dl-16—LEFT BANK PISTON
A N D R O D A S S E M B L Y (No. 1-3-5)
1— Oil Spurt Hole Up
2— Boss on Rod and Cap Rearward
3 — Notch on Piston Forward
13297
FIG. Dl-19—PISTON
RINGS
1— Compression Rings
2 — Expander
3 — Rail
4— Spacer
5— Oil Ring
12716
FIG. Dl-17—RIGHT BANK PISTON
A N D R O D A S S E M B L Y (No. 2-4-6)
1— Oil Spurt Hole Up
2 —Boss on Rod and Cap Forward
3 — Notch on Piston Forward
f. Install piston rings on piston as follows. Refer
to Fig. Dl-19. Position ends of piston ring expander
over piston pin. Install oil ring rail spacer and
oil ring rails. Position gaps in rails upward on same
side of piston as oil spurt hole in connecting rod.
Install compression rings in upper two grooves. If
a single chrome-plated compression ring is used,
the chrome ring must be installed in the top groove.
Note: All compression rings are marked with a
dimple, a letter "T", a letter "O", or word "TOP"
to identify the side of the ring which must face
toward the top of the piston. If a single chromeplated compression ring is used, the chrome ring
must be installed in the top groove.
Dl-49. Connecting Rod Bearing Inspection
and Fitting
14355
F I G . Dl-18—-PISTON P I N I N S T A L L A T I O N
1— Driver
2 —Piston Pin
3 — Piloi
4— Spring
5— Collar
6— Support Base
a. If connecting rod bearings are chipped or scored,
they should be replaced. If bearings appear to be
in good condition, check for proper radial clearance on crankpin. If radial clearance exceeds
.003" [0,076 mm.], it is advisable to install a new
bearing. However, if bearing appears to be in good
condition and does not cause noise, it will not be
mandatory to replace it. Radial clearance can be
checked either with Plastigage, as described in Par.
Dl-42, or with a strip of feeler or shim stock, as
described in Par. Dl-43. Connecting rod bearings
differ from crankshaft main bearings in that their
desired radial clearance is .0002" to .0023" [0,005
a 0,0585 mm.] and their cap bolts and nuts are
to be hand torqued to a 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,5
kg-m.] torque.
b. After each connecting rod bearing has been
properly fitted, attach bearing cap loosely with
two cap bolts and nuts to keep parts of each assembly together until installation.
89
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
Note: The rib on edge of cap and the conical boss
on web of connecting rod must be toward rear of
engine in all connecting rod assemblies of left cylinder bank and toward front of engine in all connecting rod assemblies of right cylinder bank.
Dl-50. Oil Pump Intake and Screen Cleaning
a. Pry screen from housing and examine for clogging due to deposit of sludge or other foreign
material.
b. Clean the screen and housing thoroughly in solvent; dry with compressed air.
c. Install screen in housing.
Dl-51. Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection
Inspect the oil pan for corrosion, dents, leaks, and
other damage. Inspect its mounting flange carefully
for damage or distortion to be certain that it will
give a good seal.
Dl-52. Flywheel Cleaning and Inspection
Clean the flywheel with suitable cleaning solvent;
dry with compressed air. Inspect clutch face for
burned or scuffed condition and for rivet grooves.
Inspection for run out or improper mounting is described in installation procedure.
Inspect teeth of the flywheel ring gear for burrs,
nicks, and minor distortion. If necessary and possible, use a small emery wheel to remove burrs
and reshape teeth. If gear teeth are broken, cracked,
seriously burred or deformed, the ring gear must
be replaced.
Dl-53. Ring Gear Replacement
a. Drill a hole between two ring gear teeth; then
split the gear with a cold chisel. Be careful not to
damage ring gear shoulder or seat surfaces of flywheel.
b. Polish several spots on the new ring gear to be
installed. With a hot plate or slowly moving torch,
heat the new ring gear until polished spots become
blue, about 600°F. [312°C.].
Caution: Do not heat the ring gear to a temperature
greater than 800°F. [424°C.]. Excessive heat will
destroy heat treatment given to ring gear during
manufacture.
c. Quickly install ring gear on flywheel. Chamfered
edge of ring gear must be toward ring gear shoulder
of flywheel. Be certain that ring gear is seated properly. Allow ring gear to cool slowly, so that it will
be held tightly in place.
Dl-54. Flywheel Housing Cleaning
and Inspection
Both flywheel and clutch are enclosed by a flywheel housing. Its front surface is bolted to the
engine cylinder block, and its rear surface acts as
front support to the transmission. Clean the flywheel housing with a suitable cleaning solvent; dry
with compressed air. Inspect front and rear surfaces
for distortion and improper alignment with each
other; these planes must be parallel to assure
proper alignment between engine and transmission.
90
Dl-55. Camshaft Cleaning and Inspection
Clean both camshaft and camshaft bearing surfaces
with a suitable cleaning solvent; dry with compressed air.
Note: The steel-backed babbitt-lined camshaft
bearings are pressed into the crankcase. From front
to rear, each bearing is .030" [0,76 mm.] smaller
in diameter than the preceding bearing. From front
to rear, each camshaft journal is correspondingly
smaller in diameter.
The camshaft bearings must be line reamed to
proper diameter after being pressed into crankcase.
Since this operation requires special reaming equipment, the original bearings should be retained unless they are severly damaged. Slightly scored camshaft bearings are satisfactory if the surfaces of
camshaft journals are polished, bearings are
polished to remove burrs, and radial clearance
between camshaft and bearings is within .0015"
to .004" [0,038 a 0,102 mm.].
Dl-56. Valve Lifter and Push Rod Cleaning
and Inspection
a. Examine the cam contact surface at lower end
of each valve lifter body. If surface is excessively
worn, galled, or otherwise damaged, discard the
valve lifter. Also examine the mating camshaft
lobe for excessive wear or damage.
b. Disassemble one or two valve lifters, as described below, and inspect them for dirt or varnish.
If they are dirty or have a varnish deposit, clean
and inspect all twelve valve lifters. Otherwise,
service only those valve lifters which do not operate
properly.
c. To disassemble each valve lifter, depress the
push rod seat with a push rod, and remove the
plunger retainer from the valve lifter body with
a retainer remover. Remove push rod seat and
plunger from valve lifter body. If plunger sticks
in valve lifter body, place body in large end of
a plunger remover tool, with plunger downward.
While holding lifter with thumb, rap the open end
of remover against a block of wood with just
enough force to jar the plunger from body. Refer
to Figs. Dl-20, Dl-22 and Dl-23.
d. Drain oil from valve lifter and remove the check
valve retainer, ball, valve spring, and plunger
spring.
e. Keep all parts of each valve lifter separated
during part cleaning and inspection. The valve
lifter body and plunger are selectively fitted to
each other and must not be interchanged with parts
of other valve lifters.
f. Rinse all valve lifter parts in kerosene to remove
as much oil as possible. This will reduce contamination of the cleaning solvent. Immerse all parts in
cleaning solvent for approximately one hour. The
time required will depend on varnish deposits and
effectiveness of the solvent. After the varnish has
dissolved or has softened sufficiently to permit removal by wiping, allow parts to drain. Varnish
can then be cleaned from the valve lifter body
with a brush. Rinse the parts in kerosene to dissolve
Dl
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
12751
FIG.
12712
FIG. D1-20—REMOVING PLUNGER
FROM VALVE L I F T E R BODY
1— Body
2 —Plunger
3—Support Tool
4—Wood Block
the cleaning solvent. Wipe all parts, as necessary,
to dry them and remove any traces of varnish.
Note: To promote cleanliness, it is advisable to
inspect and assemble each valve lifter before cleaning the next valve lifter.
g. Inspect inner and outer surfaces of valve lifter
body for blow holes and scoring. Replace valve
lifter assembly if body is roughly scored or grooved,
or if it has a wall blow hole which would permit oil
leakage from lower chamber. The prominent wear
pattern just above lower end of body is not a defect
unless it is definitely grooved or scored; it is caused
by side thrust of cam against body while the lifter
moves vertically in its guide. A valve lifter body
which has rotated in its guide will have a horizontal
wear pattern, while a non-rotating body will have
a square wear pattern with a very slight depression
near the center. Inspect the cam contact surface
on lower end of lifter body. Replace the valve lifter
assembly if this surface is excessively worn, galled
or otherwise damaged.
Note: Fig. Dl-21 illustrates the wear pattern of the
rotating and non-rotating valve lifters. The two
illustrations shown under B, "Normal Wear Patterns" are the conditions encountered under general
use and replacement is not warranted unless the
depth of the groove formed by the cam lobe is in
excess of .020" [0,51 mm.] or the lifters do not
operate properly. The two illustrations shown under
A, "Incorrect Wear Patterns" are normally accompanied by excessive wear or scoring of the respective camshaft lobe. This type of wear is unsatisfactory and lifter replacement is necessary.
h. Inspect outer surface of plunger for scratches
or score marks. Small score marks with rough
satiny finish will cause the plunger to seize when
D1-21—HYDRAULIC V A L V E
WEAR PATTERNS
A—Incorrect Wear Patterns
1— Galled and Pitted
2 — Soft
LIFTER
B—Normal Wear Patterns
3—Wear .020" Maximum
4—Rotating
5—Non-Rotating
hot but operate normally when cool. Using a magnifying glass, inspect the check ball seat for defects.
Defects in check ball seat, or scores or scratches on
outer surface of plunger which can be felt with
a fingernail, are reason to replace the valve lifter
assembly. This does not apply to the slight edge
which may sometimes be present when the lower
end of plunger extends below the ground inner surface of the body. This edge is not detrimental unless it is sharp or burred. A blackened appearance
is not necessarily a defective condition. Sometimes
such a discoloration gives the outer surface of
plunger a ridged or fluted appearance. If the condition does not cause improper operation, it may be
disregarded.
i. Replace the push rod seat if the area contacted
by the push rod is rough or otherwise damaged.
Replace any push rod which has a rough or damaged ball end.
j. Using a magnifying glass, carefully examine the
check valve ball for nicks, imbedded material or
other defects which would prevent proper seating.
Such defects would cause intermittently noisy
operation. Even though no defects are found, it is
always advisable to discard the old ball and use
a new one when reassembling the valve lifter,
k. Examine check valve spring for wear or damage.
Replace spring if it is distorted or shows evidence
of wear.
I. Replace a check valve retainer if cracked or if
it has heavily pounded area between the two holes.
A small bright spot where the ball contacts the
retainer is the normal condition.
m. Replace the plunger spring only if it is distorted
or damaged. Tests have shown the plunger springs
seldom break down in service.
n. Rinse lifter plunger in kerosene. Hold plunger
in vertical position with feed hole upward, then
91
Di
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
F I G . Dl-24—VALVE L I F T E R T E S T
Dl-58. Rocker Arm Disassembly
12721
F I G . D1-22—REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
OF V A L V E L I F T E R R E T A I N E R RING
A—Removal'
1 — Push Rod
2— Tool
T)
3 - -Retainer
B - -Installation
0 ©©
6
This engine has two rocker arm assemblies, each
of which is associated with one of its two cylinder
banks. Each rocker arm assembly is disassembled
as follows:
a. Remove cotter pin, flat washer, spring retaining
ring, and one rocker arm from each end of the
rocker arm shaft.
b. Withdraw two bolts from outer shaft supports
and rocker arm shaft. Remove outer supports, two
rocker arms, two spacer springs, and two remaining
rocker arms from shaft. Withdraw bolt from center
support and remove support from shaft.
Dl-59. Rocker Arm Cleaning and Inspection
F I G . D1-23—HYDRAULIC V A L V E L I F T E R
1— Body
2 — Spring
3— B a l l Retainer
4 — Ball
5—-Plunger
6— Push Rod Seat
7—-Retainer
rinse and install the check valve ball, check valve
spring, check valve retainer, plunger spring, and
valve lifter body over the plunger. Rinse push rod
seat and retainer ring in kerosene. Place these parts
in end of body and depress with a suitable tool to
cause retainer to engage groove in valve lifter
body.
o. Wrap the valve lifter in clean paper, or otherwise protect it from dirt, during cleaning and inspection of the other valve lifters.
Dl-57. Hydraulic Valve Lifter Leak-down Test
Check leak-down rate of hydraulic valve lifters
with valve lifter pliers W-324 or equivalent. Immerse the valve lifter in kerosene and grasp the
valve lifter with the pliers, as shown in Fig. Dl-24,
so that the push rod of the pliers engages the push
rod socket of the lifter. Squeeze and hold the pliers,
checking the time required for leak-down. Leakdown should take between 12 and 60 seconds.
Check a doubtful valve lifter three or four times.
Replace valve lifters that do not have a proper
leakdown rate.
92
a. With a wire brush and suitable cleaning solvent,
clean any sludge or dirt from hollow core and
oil ports of the rocker arm shaft, from bores of
shaft supports, and from oil passage in each rocker
arm. Dry these parts with compressed air. Clean
all other parts with cleaning solvent and dry with
compressed air.
b. Inspect the rocker arm shaft for scoring or
abrasion at the rocker arm bearing areas and, with
a surface plate, check for bent or distorted condition. Inspect the rocker arms for excessive wear,
scoring, or abrasion of bearing surfaces. Check for
loose or damaged valve stem or push rod inserts.
Inspect the spacer springs for breaks, deformity,
and loss of tension. Replace any visibly worn or
damaged parts. Inspect the mounting bolts for
damage. Repair damaged threads or replace as
necessary.
c. Measure rocker arm shaft diameter and bore
diameters of rocker arms. This clearance should
be .0017" to .0032" [0,0432 a 0,0812 mm.]. If
necessary, replace worn rocker arms, shaft, or both.
Dl-60. Rocker Arm Assembly
Note: All three shaft supports of each rocker arm
assembly are identical and interchangeable. In the
description to follow, "center" and "outer" refer
only to their position on the shaft.
Caution: There are two different types of rocker
arms, three of each type, in each rocker arm shaft
assembly. They are not interchangeable. One face
of each rocker arm has a notch; when installed on
the shaft, this notched face must touch a shaft
support.
Dl
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Caution: Oil ports of the rocker arm shaft must
coincide with oil return passages of the rocker
arms. If they do not, engine oil has no return path
from the cylinder head to the crankcase; in that
case, engine oil flows down the valve stems and
burns in the cylinders. There is a notch at one
end of each rocker arm shaft. When rocker arms
are properly installed on the shaft, this notch will
be at front of right rocker arm shaft and at rear
of left rocker arm shaft. Refer to Figs. Dl-25 and
Dl-26.
a. Position center support on rocker arm shaft;
insert one shaft assembly attaching bolt through
support and shaft to hold support in position.
b. Install center pair of rocker arms with notched
faces touching support. Install front and rear spacer
at each end of shaft; secure each of these with a
new cotter pin.
D1 -61. Valve Removal
a. Place cylinder head on clean, smooth surface.
b. Remove each valve assembly from cylinder
head as follows. Using suitable spring compressor,
compress valve spring and remove two valve retainers from valve stem. Release spring compressor,
and remove spring retainer and valve spring from
valve stem. Refer to Fig. Dl-27.
Note: Valve retainers are copper-colored for identification purposes only.
c. Withdraw valve from bottom of cylinder head.
Valves should be identified so they can be installed
in original location.
D1-62. Cylinder Head and Valve Cleaning
and Inspection
a. Remove carbon from combustion chamber of
cylinder heads, using care to avoid scratching the
head of valve seat surfaces. A soft wire brush is
suitable for this purpose.
b. Clean carbon and gum deposits from valve guide
bores with a standard-size valve guide reamer.
Refer to Fig. Dl-28.
c. Clean valves with a wire brush. Inspect valve
faces and seats for pits, burned spots or other evidence of poor seating.
FIG.
Dl-25—FRONT OF R I G H T
ROCKER ARM SHAFT
1—Alignment Notch
FIG.
Dl-26—REAR
OF L E F T ROCKER ARM
SHAFT
2—Alignment Notch
springs and one rocker arm each of front and rear
rocker arm pairs on shaft. Be certain that notched
faces of rocker arms are outward. Install outer
shaft supports on shaft; compress spacer springs
to position supports. Insert one shaft assembly bolt
through each support and shaft to hold supports in
position.
c. Install remaining rocker arms of front and rear
pairs, each with notched face touching shaft support. Install a spring retaining ring and flat washer
FIG.
D1 -2 7 — R E M O V I N G
1— Valve Stem
2— Valve Lock
VALVE RETAINERS
3—Valve Spring Retainer
4—Valve Spring
93
Dl
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
F I G . D1-28—CLEANING OR E N L A R G I N G
VALVE GUIDE
1—Reamer
d. Measure clearance of each valve stem in corresponding valve guide. For intake valves, this
clearance should be .0012" to .0032" [0,0305 a
0,0813 mm.]. For exhaust valves, this clearance
should be .0015" to .0035" [0,0381 a 0,0889 mm.]
at top of guide and .002" to .004" [0,051 a 0,102
mm.] at bottom of guide. If this clearance is excessive, valve guides must be reamed with .004"
[0,102 mm.] oversized reamer J-5830-1 and valves
replaced by new valves with oversize stems.
Dl-63. Cylinder Head and Valve Repair
a. If a valve stem has excessive clearance in its
guide, the guide must be reamed .004" [0,102 mm.]
oversize. Valves are available with oversize stems
to fit this valve guide diameter.
b. Grind valve faces or replace valves if necessary.
Valve faces must be ground at an angle of 45
degrees. If a valve head must be ground to a
knife edge to obtain a true face, the valve should
be replaced.
c. If necessary, grind valve seats at an angle of
45 degrees. Grinding a valve seat decreases valve
spring pressure and increases the width of the seat.
The nominal width of the valve seat is
[ 1,59
mm.]. If a valve seat is wider than %" [1,98 mm.]
after grinding, it should be narrowed to specified
width by the use of 20-degree and 70-degree stones.
Improper operation of a hydraulic valve lifter may
result if valve and seat are refinished to the extent
that the valve stem is raised more than .050"
[1,27 mm.] above normal height. In this case, it
is necessary to grind off the end of the valve
stetti or replace parts.
that a minimum of lapping will be required. E x cessive lapping will groove the valve face and prevent good valve seating.
e. Test valve seats for concentricity with guides,
and for proper valve seating. Coat a small segment
of the valve face lightly with Prussian blue pigment.. Insert the valve stem into its guide and
turn the valve face against the seat. If the valve
seat is concentric with the valve guide, a mark
will be made all around the seat. If the seat is
not concentric with the guide, a mark will be made
on only one side of the seat.
Clean all pigment from both valve and seat. .Next,
coat a small segment of the valve seat lightly with
Prussian blue pigment. Again insert the valve stem
into its guide and rotate the valve face against the
seat. If the valve face is concentric with the valve
stem, and if the valve is seating all the way around,
pigment will coat the valve face with a uniform
band around its entire perimeter. Both of these
tests are necessary to prove that proper valve seating is obtained.
f. Inspect the valve springs visually for corrosion,
breaks, and distortion. With a valve spring tester
check each valve spring for proper tension. When
a valve spring is compressed to a length of 1.640"
[4,166 cm.] (closed-valve condition), it should
have a tension of 64 lb. [29,03 kg.]. When a valve
spring is compressed to a length of 1.260" [3,200
cm.] (open-valve condition), it should have tension of 168 lb. [76,205 kg.]. Replace any valve
spring which is visibly damaged or does not meet
tension specifications.
Dl-64. Valve Installation
Lubricate valve stems with engine oil. Install
valves, valve springs, spring retainers, and valve
retainers on the cylinder head. Use the same
equipment and reverse procedure used for removal.
Install valve springs with closely wound coils toward the cylinder head. Refer to Fig. Dl-29.
Note: The normal height of the valve stem above
the valve spring seat surface of the head is 1.925"
[4,889 cm.].
d. Lightly lap the valves into seats with fine grinding compound. The refacing and reseating should
leave the refinished surfaces smooth and true so
94
FIG. Dl-29—VALVE SPRING
1— Spring
2— Close Wound Coils Toward Head
Dl
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Dl-65. Rocker Arm Cover Cleaning
and Inspection
a. Clean both rocker arm covers with suitable
cleaning solvent and dry thoroughly.
b. Inspect each rocker arm cover visually for
scratches, bends, dents, and tears. Replace cover
if unserviceable.
Dl-66. Timing Chain and Sprocket Inspection
Inspect the timing chain and both sprockets for
damage or excessive wear. Replace unserviceable
parts.
12719
FIG. Dl-31—OIL PUMP P R E S S U R E R E L I E F
Dl-67. Timing Chain Cover Cleaning
and Inspection
a. Clean the timing chain cover with suitable cleaning solvent and dry with compressed air.
b. Inspect the cover visually for breaks, cracks, and
other damage. With a straightedge, check cylinder
block, water pump, and oil pump faces for bends
and distortion.
c. Install oil pump gears in oil pump cavity of
timing gear cover. With a straightedge and feeler
gauge, check gear and clearance. Refer to Fig.
Dl-30. Clearance should be between .0023" [0,0584
mm.] and .0058" [0,1358 mm.]. If it is lower
than .0018" [0,0457 mm.], inspect thrust surfaces
of cover which touch gears for wear.
d. Replace the timing chain cover if unserviceable.
VALVE
1— Valve Cap
2— Gasket
3 — Spring
4—Valve
5—Oil Pump Cover
c. Wash valve parts thoroughly. Inspect the relief
valve plunger for wear or scoring. Check the spring
to see that it is not worn or collapsed. Replace any
relief valve spring that is questionable. Thoroughly
clean the screen staked in the cover.
d. Insert the relief valve plunger into its bore in
the cover. The plunger should have no more clearance than an easy slip fit. If there is any perceptible
sideways movement, the plunger and/or the cover
should be replaced.
e. Check oil filter bypass valve plunger for cracks,
nicks, or warping. The plunger should be flat and
free of nicks or scratches.
f. Lubricate and install pressure relief valve plunger and spring in bore of oil pump cover. Install
cap and gasket. Torque cap to 30 to 40 lb-ft.
[4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.]. Do not over-tig n.
1
Note: Pressure relief valve cap has no tapped hole
for installation of oil pressure switch.
H1 -69. Crankshaft Vibration Damper Inspection
Inspect the crankshaft vibration damper for
cracked, broken, distorted, or otherwise damaged
condition. If damaged, replace.
Dl-70. Crankshaft Pulley Inspection
Inspect the crankshaft pulley for damage or excessive wear. Replace if visibly worn or damaged.
FIG. Dl-30—CHECKING O I L PUMP
END CLEARANCE
GEAR
1— Feeler Gauge
2— Straight Edge
3 —Pump Body
4— Pump Gears
Dl-63. Oil Pump Cleaning and Inspection
a. Clean gears with suitable cleaning solvent and
dry thoroughly. Inspect for wear, scoring, and other
damage. Replace either or both gears if unserviceable.
b. Remove the oil pressure relief valve cap, spring
and plunger. Refer to Fig. Dl-31. Oil filter bypass
valve plunger and spring are staked in place and
should not be removed.
Dl-71. ENGINE REASSEMBLY
The engine assembly procedure in the following
paragraphs is given in the sequence to be followed
when the engine is being completely overhauled.
Individual inspection, repair, and fitting operations
previously covered in detail are made throughout
the assembly procedure. The assembly procedure
does not cover accessories. If a new cylinder block
fitted with pistons is used, many of the operations
will not be required.
Mount the cylinder block in an engine repair stand.
If an engine stand is not available, perform the
following assembly operation in a manner designed
to protect personnel against an accident, and the
engine and its parts against damage.
95
Dl
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
Note: During engine reassembly, use Perfect Seal
Aerosol Spray Sealer Part No. 994757 on all engine gaskets to ensure against vacuum, oil, gasoline
and water leaks. Apply to head gaskets, valve
covers, water pumps, oil pan gaskets, radiator and
heater hose connections, felt gaskets, gasoline and
oil line connections, stud bolts, spark plug threads,
and grease retainer washers. Refer to manufacturer's instructions on container for proper application procedure.
Dl-72. Cylinder Block and Crankshaft
Rear Oil Seals
Braided fabric seals are pressed into grooves of
cylinder block and rear main bearing cap, to rear
of the oil collecting groove, to seal against oil leakage at the crankshaft. Refer to Fig. Dl-32.
firmly in place. Dip the neoprene seals in kerosene
approximately IV2 minutes, then install seals into
bearing cap grooves. The protruding ends of the
seals are, again, squirted with kerosene, wiped off,
and peaned over with a hammer to be sure of a
seal at the upper parting line between the cap and
cylinder block.
Dl-73. Main Bearing and Crankshaft Installation
Refer to Fig. Dl-6.
This procedure assumes that crankshaft main bearings have been inspected and proven satisfactory,
or that new crankshaft main bearings of appropriate
size have been selected. If necessary, check or select
main bearings as described in Par. Dl-41 and Pars.
Dl-42 and Dl-43.
a. Install four upper main bearing halves in seats
of cylinder block so that prong of each bearing half
fits into corresponding notch of seat. Flanged thrust
bearing must be installed in the second seat from
front of engine. Install a new upper crankshaft
rear oil seal in the cylinder block as described in
Par. Dl-72.
Caution: Upper main bearing halves have an oil
groove, while lower halves are plain. They must
not be interchanged.
FIG. Dl-32—INSTALLING
CRANKSHAFT
REAR OIL SEAL
1—Neoprene Seal
2—Fabric Seal
A neoprene composition (stick) seal is installed in
grooves in the sides of the rear main bearing cap
to seal against leakage in the joints between the
cap and cylinder block. The neoprene composition
expands in the presence of oil and heat. This seal
is undersize when newly installed. Refer to Fig.
Dl-32.
a. The braided fabric seal can be installed in the
cylinder block only when the crankshaft is removed; however, the seal in the cap can be replaced
whenever the cap is removed. Remove oil seal and
place new seal in groove, with both ends projecting
above parting surface of cap. Force seal into groove
by rubbing down with hammer handle or smooth
stick until seal projects above the groove not more
than
[1,59 mm.]. Cut ends off flush with surface of cap, using sharp knife or razor blade.
Lubricate the seal with heavy engine oil just before
installation.
Caution: The engine must be operated at slow
speed when first started after new braided seal
has been installed.
b. The neoprene composition seal is slightly longer
than the grooves in the bearing cap. The seal must
not be cut to length. The seals are installed after
the bearing cap is installed in the block and torqued
96
b. Apply engine oil to upper bearing surfaces.
Install the crankshaft so that its four journals rest
in the upper bearing halves.
c. Seat all four lower main bearing halves in corresponding bearing caps. Install a new lower crankshaft rear oil seal and cylinder block rear oil seal
described in Par. Dl-72, a and b. Lubricate all lower
main bearing surfaces with engine oil. Position bearing caps to cylinder block and crankcase journals.
Install two cap bolts, loosely, at each cap.
d. It is necessary to align thrust surfaces of the
second main bearing whenever it has been removed
from the engine. To do this, pry the crankshaft
back and forth several times, throughout its entire
end travel, with cap bolts of second main bearing
only finger tight.
e. Tighten alternate cap bolts of each main bearing
cap, a little at a time, until they have been tightened to 80 to 110 lb-ft. [11,1 a 15,2 kg-m.] torque.
D1-74. Crankshaft End Play Check
To measure crankshaft end play, mount a dial
indicator on the cylinder block and index its plunger to either a front or rear face of one crankshaft
counterweight. Pry the crankshaft to one limit
of its end travel and adjust the dial indicator to
zero. Pry the crankshaft to its opposite end travel
limit and note end play as indicated by the dial
indicator. Crankshaft end play tolerances are .004"
to .008" [0,102 a 0,204 mm.]. If end play is too
great, it can be corrected only by replacement of
the second main (thrust) bearing.
Dl-75. Piston and Connecting Rod Installation
This procedure assumes that connecting rod bearings have been inspected and proven satisfactory,
or that new connecting rod bearings of appropriate
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Dl
size have been selected. If necessary, check or select
connecting rod bearings as described in Par. Dl-49.
Note: When a piston and connecting rod assembly
is properly installed, the oil spurt hole in the connecting rod will face the camshaft. The rib on the
edge of the bearing cap will be on the same side
as the conical boss on the connecting rod web;
these marks (rib and boss) will be toward the other
connecting rod on the same crankpin. The notch
on the piston will face the front of the engine.
a. Be certain that cylinder bores, pistons, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft journals are
absolutely clean. Coat all bearing surfaces with
engine oil.
b. Before installing a piston and connecting rod assembly into its bore, rotate the crankshaft so that
the corresponding crankpin is moved downward,
away from the cylinder bore.
c. Remove bearing cap from connecting rod. With
upper bearing half seated in connecting rod, install
connecting rod guides. These guides hold the upper
bearing half in place and prevent damage to the
crankshaft crankpin during installation of the connecting rod and piston assembly.
d. Be certain that the gap in the oil ring rails faces
upward, toward center of engine. Gaps of the compression rings shall not be aligned with each other
or with the oil ring rails.
e. Lubricate the piston and rings. Compress the
rings with a suitable piston ring compressor; install
the piston and connecting rod assembly from top
of cylinder bore. Refer to Fig. Dl-33.
f. Install bearing cap, with lower bearing half, on
connecting rod. Torque bolt nuts to 30 to 40 lb-ft.
[4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.].
g. Install all other piston and connecting rod assemblies in same manner.
h. Check end clearance between connecting rods
on each crankpin with a feeler gauge. Clearance
should be .005 to .012" [0,127 a 0,305 mm.].
FIG. Dl-33—INSTALLING PISTON AND
CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY
1—Ring Compressor
,/
Dl-76. Install Oil Pump Intake Pipe
and Screen Assembly
Check mating surfaces of oil pump intake pipe
and engine cylinder block to be certain that they
are clean. Secure the pipe and screen assembly,
with a new gasket, to engine cylinder block with
two attaching screws. See Fig. Dl-34. Torque
screws 6 to 9 lb-ft. [0,83 a 1,24 kg-m.].
Dl-77. Install Oil Pan
Refer to Fig. Dl-35.
Be certain the flange surface of oil pan and corresponding surface of engine cylinder block are
clean. Install a new oil pan gasket on the cylinder
block. Secure oil pan to cylinder block with mounting bolts. Torque bolts 10 to 15 lb-ft [1,4 a 2,1
kg-m.].
Dl-78. Install Flywheel
Refer to Fig. Dl-7.
a. Check flywheel flange of engine crankshaft and
corresponding surface of flywheel to be certain that
F I G . Dl-34-^-OIL P U M P I N T A K E P I P E A N D
SCREEN INSTALLATION
1—Pipe and Screen
97
Dl
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
14270
F I G . D1-35—OIL P A N A N D P U M P A S S E M B L Y
1— Oil Dipstick
2— Oil P a n Baffle
3 — Oil P a n Gasket
4—Oil P a n
5— Drain Plug Gasket
6— Drain Plug
7— Oil Pump Screen
8— Oil Suction Housing, Pipe and Flange
9— Oil Suction Pipe Gasket
98
10— Oil Pump Idler Gear
11— Valve By-Pass and Cover Assy.
12— Oil Pressure Valve
1 3 — Spring
14— Gasket
15— Oil. Pressure Valve Cap
16— Oil Filter
17— Oil Pump Cover Gasket
18— Oil Pump Shaft and Gear
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L
SERIES S E R V I C E MANUAL
both are clean. Any foreign material on either of
these surfaces will cause flywheel run out and engine vibration. Position flywheel to crankshaft and
secure with six mounting bolts. Torque mounting
bolts 50 to 65 lb-ft. [6,91 a 8,98 kg-m.].
Note: Flywheel mounting bolts are unevenly
spaced so that flywheel can be installed in only
one position. This assures correct balance of flywheel and crankshaft.
b. Mount a dial indicator on flywheel housing
flange of cylinder block and index its plunger to
the flywheel surface. Measure flywheel run out.
Maximum allowable run out is .015" [0,381 mm.].
Dl
Dl-82. Install Cylinder Head Assembly
Refer to Fig. D l - 9 .
a. Wipe cylinder head face of engine cylinder
block, and be certain no foreign material has fallen
into the cylinder bores, bolt holes, or in the valve
lifter area. It is good practice to clean out bolt
holes with compressed air.
b. Install a new cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block. Dowels in the block will hold the gasket
in position. Always handle gaskets carefully to
avoid kinking or damage to the surface treatment
of the gasket. Apply Perfect Seal Aerosol Spray
Sealer Part No. 994757 on cylinder head gaskets.
Dl-79. Install Clutch and Flywheel Housing
a. Note marks made on clutch assembly and flywheel during engine disassembly. Position clutch
assembly to flywheel, according to marks, and
fasten loosely with six attaching bolts. Torque
bolts in rotation, one turn at a time, to 30 to 40
lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.].
b. Engage fork of clutch linkage to clutch and
position flywheel housing to engine cylinder block.
Secure housing to block with six mounting bolts.
Torque bolts 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.].
D1-80. Install Camshaft
Insert camshaft into camshaft bearings of engine
cylinder block carefully to avoid damage to bearing surfaces. Make certain camshaft journals are
properly seated in bearings.
14203
FIG. Dl-37—CYLINDER HEAD BOLT
TIGHTENING
SEQUENCE
12695
FIG. D1-36—CAMSHAFT AND V A L V E
1—Rocker A r m
2— Push Rod
LINKAGE
3— Valve Lifter
4— Camshaft
D1-81. Install Valve Lifter and Push Rod
Make certain valve lifter guide holes and adjacent
area of cylinder block are clean. Liberally lubricate
the camshaft and valve lifter bores with engine
oil, and install valve lifters. Each valve lifter must
slide freely in its guide hole. See Fig. Dl-36.
c. Clean gasket surface of cylinder head and carefully place on the engine block dowel pins.
d. Clean and lubricate the cylinder head bolts with
a sealing compound (Part No. 994757, or equivalent).
e. Install, and alternately tighten the head bolts,
a little at a time, in the sequence shown in Fig.
Dl-37. Torque bolts 65 to 85 lb-ft. [9,0 a 11,8
kg-m.].
f. Tilt the rocker arms toward the push rods and
locate the top of each push rod in its rocker arm
seat.
g. Mount the rocker arm and shaft assembly,
tightening the bracket bolts a little at a time.
Torque the bracket bolts 25 to 35 lb-ft. [3,5 a 4,8
kg-m.]. Do not overtighten.
h. See Section F l and F 2 for engines equipped
with exhaust emission control.
Dl-83. Install Rocker Arm Cover
Install a new gasket on each rocker arm cover.
Secure each rocker arm cover to corresponding
cylinder head with four attaching screws. Install
the positive crankcase ventilation valve on right
rocker arm cover.
99
Dl
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
14262
F I G . D1-38—TIMING CHAIN, T I M I N G G E A R S AND C O V E R
1—Crankshaft Pulley
2 — Crankshaft Pulley Bolt
3 — Washer
4— Vibration Damper
5— Timing Gear Cover
6— Gasket
7—Dowel P i n
g—Woodruff K e y
9—Timing Chain Damper (Right)
10—Damper Bolt
11— Camshaft Sprocket
12— Fuel Pump Eccentric
13— Distributor Camshaft Gear
14—Washer
15— Special Bolt
16—-Thrust Spring
17—Thrust Button
D1-84. Install Timing Chain and Sprocket
a. Turn crankshaft so that No. 1 piston is at top
center.
b. Temporarily install sprocket key and camshaft
sprocket on camshaft. Turn camshaft so that index
mark of sprocket is downward. Remove key and
sprocket from camshaft.
c. Assemble timing chain and sprockets. Install
keys, sprocket, and chain assembly on the camshaft
and crankshaft so that index marks of both
sprockets are aligned as shown in Fig. Dl-39.
Note: It will be necessary to hold spring-loaded
timing chain damper out of the way while installing
timing chain and sprocket assembly.
100
18—Oil Shedder (Crankshaft)
19—-Crankshaft Packing (Front)
20—-Crankshaft Slinger •
21— Crankshaft Sprocket
22— Timing Chain
23— Damper Bolt .
2 A Timing Chain Damper (Left)
25 Spring
d. Install front oil slinger on crankshaft with inside diameter against sprocket (concave side toward front of engine).
e. Install fuel pump eccentric on camshaft and key
with oil groove of eccentric forward. See Fig. Dl-40.
f. Install distributor drive gear on camshaft. Secure
gear and eccentric to camshaft with retaining
washer and bolt. Torque bolt 40 to 55 lb-ft. [5,53
a 7,6 kg-m.]. Install camshaft thrust retainer assembly onto camshaft retaining bolt. Refer to items
16 and 17 Fig. Dl-38.
Dl-85. Install Crankshaft Front Oil Seal
From rear of timing chain cover, coil new packing
around crankshaft opening at cover so that ends
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
of packing are at top. Drive in a new shedder with
a suitable punch. Stake the shedder in at least
three places to secure it in position. Size the pack-
Dl
ing by rotating a hammer handle, or similar smooth
tool, around it, as necessary, to obtain clearance
for the crankshaft vibration damper hub.
Dl-86. Install Timing Chain Cover
Note:
chain
seven
cover
There are five bolts which attach the timing
cover directly to the cylinder block, and
bolts which attach both the timing chain
and water pump to the cylinder block.
a. If oil pump has not been removed from timing
chain cover, remove fine slotted attaching screws,
oil pump cover, gasket from timing chain cover.
Completely pack the space around the oil pump
gears with petroleum jelly. There must be no air
space left inside the pump. Secure oil pump cover
and a new gasket to timing chain cover with five
slotted attaching screws. Torque screws, alternately
and evenly, 8 to 12 lb-ft [1,10 a 1,66 kg-m.].
Note: Unless oil pump gears are packed with petroleum jelly, pump may not prime itself when engine
is started.
b. The gasket surfaces of the cylinder block and
timing chain cover must be smooth and clean. Install a new timing chain cover gasket and position
it correctly on the cylinder block.
Note: Two different timing chain cover gaskets
have been installed in production on V-6 engines.
At any time the timing chain cover gasket is
replaced, make sure the correct gasket is installed.
FIG. Dl-39—INSTALLATION OF TIMING
CHAIN AND SPROCKET
1— Camshaft Sprocket
2 — Crankshaft Sprocket
3—Timing Chain
4—Timing Marks
c. Position timing chain cover to cylinder block.
Use timing cover aligner and oil seal remover tool
J-22248. Be certain that dowel pins engage dowel
pin holes before installing bolts.
d. Lubricate bolt threads before installation. Install
the mounting bolts and torque 25 to 33 lb-ft. [3,5
a 4,6 kg-m.].
Note: Some timing chain covers have two additional
bolts, one in each upper corner. If the timing chain
cover being installed on a crankcase with these
two holes does not have matching holes, the holes
in the crankcase must be plugged with two hex
socket screw plugs. The plug should be driven past
the face of the case to prevent interference with
the timing chain cover. These bolts are not shown
in Fig. Dl-41.
D1-87. Install Oil Pump
a. Pack • oil pump gear pocket of timing chain
cover with petroleum jelly. Do not use chassis
lubricant.
b. Install gears so that petroleum jelly is forced
into every cavity of gear pocket and between the
teeth of the gears. Install a new oil pump cover
gasket.
FIG. Dl-40—FUEL PUMP ECCENTRIC AND
DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR
1— Fuel Pump Eccentric
2— Oil Groove
3—Camshaft
4—Distributor Drive Gear
Note: Unless the pump is packed with petroleum
jelly, it may not prime itself when the engine is
started.
c. Mount oil pump cover on timing gear cover
with five slotted attaching screws. Torque screws
101
Dl
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
Dl-93. Install Oil Filter
Install a new oil filter element at oil filter nipple,
at left side of timing chain cover. Torque 10 to
15 lb-ft. [1,38 a 2,07 kg-m.].
D1-94. Install Water Pump
Be certain that mating surfaces of the water pump
and timing chain cover are clean. Install a new
gasket on the pump flange. Secure the pump and
alternator adjustment bracket to the cover with
nine attaching bolts. Torque bolts 6 to 8 lb-ft.
[0,83 a 1,10 kg-m.]. Refer to Fig. Dl-41.
D1-9S. Install Cooling Fan
Secure the cooling fan, fan hub, and fan drive
pulley to the water pump shaft flange with four
attaching screws. Torque screws 17 to 23 lb-ft.
[2,35 a 3,18 kg-m.].
FIG. Dl-41—WATER PUMP AND T I M I N G
CHAIN COVER BOLT LOCATION
Cover Bolts
alternately and evenly 8 to 12 lb-ft. [1,10 a 1,66
kg-m.].
Dl-88. Install Crankshaft Vibration Damper
a. Lubricate the vibration damper hub before installation to prevent damage to the crankshaft
front oil seal during installation and when the
engine is first started.
b. Install the vibration damper on the crankshaft.
Secure it with its attaching flat washer and screw.
Torque the screw to a minimum of 140 lb-ft.
[19,35 kg-m.].
Dl-89. Install Crankshaft Pulley
Secure the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft
vibration damper with six screws. Torque screws
18 to 25 lb-ft. [2,5 a 3,4 kg-m.].
Dl-96. Install Alternator and Fan Belt
Mount the alternator and bracket assembly on
right cylinder head with two attaching screws.
Torque screws 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.].
Fasten the alternator loosely to its adjustment
bracket with attaching flat washer and nut. Install
the fan belt on its pulleys. Pivot the alternator
outward, away from cylinder block, to apply fan
belt tension. Adjust fan belt tension to 80 lb.
[36,2 kg.]; tighten alternator-to-adjustment bracket
nut to secure adjustment setting. Connect wiring
harness to alternator.
Dl-97. Install Fuel Pump
Install two mounting bolts and new gasket on
flange of fuel pump. Secure pump to timing chain
cover with screws; torque screws 17 to 23 lb-ft.
[2,35 a 3,8 kg-m.]. Connect output fuel line to
pump.
Dl-98. Install Exhaust Manifold
Secure each of two exhaust manifolds to corresponding cylinder head with five attaching screws,
and one nut. Torque screws and nut 15 to 20 lb-ft.
[2,07 a 2,8 kg-m.]. See Fig. Dl-42.
Dl-99. Install Distributor
Insert distributor drive gear into distributor mountDl-90. Install Oil Level Dipstick
Insert oil level dipstick into the dipstick tube.
Dl-91. Install Oil Pressure Sending Unit
Install oil pressure sending unit in cylinder block.
Connect electrical wiring harness to unit.
Dl-92. Install Starting Motor
Secure starting motor and solenoid assembly to
the flywheel housing and cylinder block with two
attaching screws. Torque screw, which attaches this
assembly to the flywheel housing, 30 to 40 lb-ft.
[4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.]. Torque screw, which attaches
bracket to cylinder block, 10 to 12 lb-ft. [1,4 a
1,7 kg-m.].
102
FIG. Dl-42—EXHAUST MANIFOLD INSTALLATION
1—Torque B o l t s — 1 5 to 20 lb-ft. [2,07 a 2,8 kg-m.]
'Jeep
1
FIG.
Dl-44—INTAKE MANIFOLD
GASKET INSTALLATION
1—Gasket
FIG.
D1-43—INTAKE
SEAL
MANIFOLD
INSTALLATION
1—Seal
Dl
UNIVERSAL SERIES S E R V I C E MANUAL
2—Cylinder Head
ing hole at left side of timing chain cover. If timing
chain and sprockets have not been removed from
engine, install distributor with rotor in position
noted during distributor removal. Fasten distributor
to timing chain cover with retaining bracket and
mounting screws. If distributor is aligned, torque
screw 18 to 20 lb-ft. [2,5 a 2,8 kg-m.].
2—Guides Bolts
aligned with ports of the head and manifold. One
gasket should be installed in position on the left
side, as shown in Fig. Dl-44, and its counterpart
reversed for right side installation.
c. Install manifold attaching bolt in open bolt
hole at right side of intake manifold. See Fig. Dl-46.
Open bolt hole is held to close tolerances, so that
the bolt in this location serves to locate the manifold front and rear.
d. Install remaining manifold-to-cylinder head
bolts, with longer bolts at forward location. Beginning with the number 1 and 2 bolts, see Fig. Dl-45,
tighten gradually and equally until both bolts are
snug. This will prevent the manifold from shifting
due to full torque being applied to only one bolt.
Then continue in the sequence illustrated in Fig.
Dl-45 until the rest of the bolts are also snug.
Finally, using the same sequence, torque all bolts
to 45 to 55 lb-ft. [6,2 a 7,6 kg-m.].
Dl-100. Install Spark Plugs
Install spark plugs in cylinder heads. Torque 25
to 33 lb-ft. [3,5 a 4,6 kg-m.]. Install spark plug
cable retainers on brackets welded to rocker arm
covers. Fit cables into retainers and connect to
spark plugs, as indicated by cable numbers molded
into distributor cap and by spark plug firing order
pressed into each rocker arm cover.
Dl-101. Install Intake Manifold and
Carburetor Assembly
a. Install a new rubber intake manifold seal at
front and rear rails of cylinder block. Be sure
pointed ends of seals fit snugly against block and
cylinder heads. See Fig. Dl-43.
b. Set intake manifold in place on cylinder block
between cylinder heads. Thread two cap bolts
through manifold into each cylinder head as guide
bolts. Lift the manifold slightly and insert each
of two gaskets into position between manifold
and corresponding cylinder head. Be certain that
the gasket is installed with its three apertures
12750
FIG.
Dl-45—INTAKE
TIGHTENING
MANIFOLD
SEQUENCE
BOLT
103
Dl
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
e. Connect electrical wiring harness to coolant
temperature sending unit. Connect two distributor
leads to ignition coil. Connect fuel line between
fuel pump and carburetor, vacuum hose between
distributor and carburetor, and crankcase vent hose
to intake manifold below rear of carburetor.
F I G . D1-46—-INTAKE M A N I F O L D
1—Long Bolt
INSTALLATION
2—Open Bolt Hole
Dl-102. ENGINE INSTALLATION
Install the engine in the vehicle in the following
procedure listed below:
a. Attach suitable sling to engine lifting eyes and,
using a hoist, lift the engine from blocks or engine
stand.
b. When engine is free of the stand lower it slowly
into the engine compartment of the vehicle.
Note: The engine and transmission must be lined
up to engage the main shaft and clutch plate spline
while sliding the engine rearward into the mounting
position.
c. Install and tighten up bolts securing engine to
flywheel housing.
d. Install and tighten front engine mounting bolts.
e. Remove sling from the engine.
I. Connect exhaust pipes to right and left engine
manifolds.
g. Connect choke cable support bracket to carburetor.
h. Connect engine fuel hoses and fuel lines at right
frame rail.
I. Connect fuel lines.
j. Mount engine starter motor assembly to engine.
104
k. Connect battery cable and wiring to engine
starter motor.
I. Connect engine wiring harnesses to connectors
located on engine firewall.
Note: On engines equipped with exhaust emission
control, replace the air pump, air distributor manifold, and anti-backfire (gulp) valve. See Section F 2 .
m. Replace radiator, and secure with bolts,
n. Replace and tighten right and left radiator support rods.
0. Connect upper and lower radiator hoses to the
engine.
p. Connect alternator wiring harness from connector at regulator,
q. Replace air cleaner.
r. Connect battery ground cable from the battery
to the engine and the engine ground strap,
s. Replace the hood.
After the engine is installed in the vehicle, fill
radiator with coolant and engine with oil (Refer
to Lubrication Section B ) , then perform an engine
Tune-up and road test (Refer to Tune-up Section C ) .
Dl-103. FINAL IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS
a. Clean battery terminals and check battery.
b. Check ignition wires and connections.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.
d. Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e. Check fuel lines.
f. Gap and install new spark plugs.
g. Check distributor points and capacitor; replace
if necessary.
h. Check ignition (distributor) timing; reset if
necessary.
1. Check carburetor adjustments; reset if necessary,
j. With engine fully warmed up, tighten cylinder
head and manifold bolts and nuts to specified
torque. Check cylinder head gaskets and bolts for
air or coolant leaks.
Note: Tightness of cylinder head bolts should be
checked and corrected after 500 miles [800 km.]
of normal operation and again at 1000 miles [1600
km.].
k. Check fan belt tension; adjust if necessary.
I. Check for and correct any oil leak, fuel leak or
coolant leak.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Dl
Dl-104. S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS
Poor Fuel Economy
Ignition Timing Late or Spark
Advance Inoperative
Carburetor Float Setting Too High
Accelerator Pump Improperly Adjusted
Fuel Pump Pressure High
Fuel Line Leakage
Fuel Pump Diaphragm Leakage
Cylinder Compression Low
Valves Do Not Seat Properly
Spark Plugs Defective
Spark Plug Cables Defective
Ignition Coil or Capacitor Defective
Carburetor Air Cleaner Dirty
Brakes Drag
Wheel Alignment Incorrect
Tire Pressure Incorrect
Odometer Inaccurate
Fuel Tank Cap Clogged or Defective
Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent
Lack of Power
Cylinder Compression Low
Ingitdon Timing Late
Carburetor or Fuel Pump Clogged
or Defective
Fuel Lines Clogged
Air Cleaner Restricted
Engine Temperature High
Valves Do Not Seat Property
Valve Timing Late
Intake Manifold or Cylinder Head
Gasket Leaks
Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent
Spark Plugs Dirty or Defective
Breaker Point Gap Incorrect
Breaker Points Defective
Ignition Coil or Capacitor Defective
Electrical Connection Loose
Broken Valve Spring
Broken Piston Ring or Piston
Cylinder Head Gasket Defective
Distributor Cap Cracked
Low
Compression
Valves Not Seating Properly
Piston Rings Seal Poorly
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Cylinder Scored or Worn
Piston Clearance Too Great
Cylinder Head Gasket Leaks
Burned Valves and Seats
Valves Stick or Are Too Loose in Guides
Valve Timing Incorrect
Valve Head and Seat Have Excessive Carbon
Engine Overheats
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Valve Lifter Seized or Collapsed
Exhaust System Clogged
Valves Sticking
Valve Stem Warped
Valve Stem Carbonized or Scored
Valve Stem Clearance Insufficient in Guide
Valve Spring Weak or Broken
Valve Spring Distorted
Oil Contaminated
Overheating
Cooling System Inoperative
Thermostat Inoperative
Ignition Timing Incorrect
Valve Timing Incorrect
Carbon Accumulation Excessive
Fan Belt Loose
Muffler or Exhaust Pipe Clogged or Bent
Oil System Failure
Piston Rings Worn or Scored
Popping, Spitting, Detonation
Ignition Timing Incorrect
Carburetion Improper
Carbon Deposit in Combustion
Chambers Excessive
Valves Not Seating Properly
Valve Spring Broken
Spark Plug Electrodes Burned
Water or Dirt in Fuel
Fuel Line Clogged
Valve Timing Incorrect
Excessive Oil Consumption
Piston Rings Stuck in Grooves, Weak,
Worn, Broken, or Incorrectly Fitted
Crankshaft Main Bearings or
Connecting Rod Bearings Have
Excessive Clearance
Gaskets or Oil Seals Leak
Cylinder Bores Worn, Scored,
Out-of-Round or Tapered
Pistons Have Too Great Clearance
to Cylinder Bores
Connecting Rods Misaligned
High Road Speed
High Temperature
Crankcase Ventilation System Inoperative
Bearing Failure
Crankshaft Bearing Journal
Rough or Out-of-Round
Oil Level Low
Oil Leakage
Oil Dirty
Oil Pressure Low or Lacking
(Oil Pump Failure)
Drilled Passages in Crankshaft or
Crankcase Clogged
Oil Screen Dirty
Connecting Rod Bent
105
Dl
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
E-105. DAUNTLESS V-6 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
ENGINE:
Type
Number of Cylinders
Valve Arrangement
Bore
Stroke
Piston Displacement
Firing Order
Compression Ratio
Number of Mounting Points:
Front.
Horsepower ( S A E )
Horsepower (max. brake)
Torque (max. 2400 rpm.)
Cylinder Numbers, Front to Rear:
Right Bank
Left Bank
Cylinder Block Material
Cylinder Head Material
PISTONS:
Material
Description
Clearance Limits:
Top L a n d
Skirt Top
Skirt Bottom
Ring Groove Depth*.
No. 1
No. 2, 3
Cylinder Bore:
Out-of-Round (max.).
Taper (max.)
PISTON RINGS:
Function:
No. 1 and No. 2 R i n g . .
No. 3 Ring
Location
Material:
No. 1 . . .
No. 2
No. 3.
Oil Ring Type
Oil Ring Expander
Width:
No. 1
No. 2. .
No. 3
Gap:
No. 1 and No. 2
No. 3
Side Clearance in Groove:
No. 1
No. 2
No. 3
PISTON PINS:
Material
Length
Diameter
Type
Clearance in Piston
Clearance in Connecting R o d .
Distance Offset Toward
High-Thrust Side of Piston.
English
Metric
90° V-6
6
I n head
3.750"
3.400"
225 cu. in.
1.6.5.4.3.2
*9.0:1
9,525 cm.
8,636 cm.
3,69 ltr.
2
33.748
160 @ 4200 rpm.
235 lb-ft.
2, 4, 6
1, 3, 5
Cast Iron
Cast Iron
Cast Aluminum Alloy
C a m Ground, T i n Plated
.0125" to .0295"
.0005" to .0011"
.0005" to .0011"
0,318 a 0,749 mm.
0,0127 a 0,0279 mm.
0,0127 a 0,0279 mm.
.1880" to .1995"
.1905" to .1980"
4,775 a 5,067 mm.
4,839 a 5,029 mm.
.003"
.005"
0,076 mm.
0,127 mm.
Compression
Oil Control
Above Piston Pin
Iron, Chrome Plated
Iron, Pre lubricated
Steel
Dual Rail, With Spacer
Humped Ring
.0785" to .0790"
.0770" to .0780"
.181" to .187"
1,993 a 2,007 mm.
1,956 a 1,981 mm.
4,60 a 4,75 mm.
.010" to .020"
.015" to .035"
0,25 a 0,51 mm.
0,38 a 0,89 mm.
.002" to .0035"
.003" to .005"
.0015" to .0085"
0,051 a 0,089 mm.
0,076 a 0,127 mm.
0,038 a 0,220 mm.
Steel, S A E 1018, S A E 1118
3.060"
.9394" to .9397"
Pressed in Connecting Rod
.0004" to .0007"
.0007" to .0017"
0,0102 a 0,0178 mm.
0,0178 a 0,0431 mm.
.040"
1,016 mm.
*State of California Exhaust Emission Control Engine 7.4 Compression Ratio.
106
32,49 kg-m.
7,772 cm.
23,861 a 23,868 mm.
Dl
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Dl-105. DAUNTLESS V-6 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS—Continued
Metric
English
C O N N E C T I N G RODS:
Material
Installation
Bearings:
Type........
Material.
Length
Clearance
E n d P l a y (total for two connecting rods)
CRANKSHAFT:
Material
,
E n d Thrust
E n d Play
Main Bearings:
Number
Type
Material:
Length, Over-All:
No. 1, No. 3, and No. 4
No. 2
Clearance
Main Journal Diameter.
Crankpin Journal Diameter
Flywheel R u n Out, max
CAMSHAFT:
Material
Bearings:
Number
Material
Clearance
Journal Diameter:
No. 1
No. 2
No. 3 .
No. 4
Location
Camshaft Drive
Chain L i n k s
Camshaft Sprocket Material
Crankshaft Sprocket Material
VALVE SYSTEM:
Valve Lifters
Diameter
Clearance in Cylinder Block
Leak-down Time (seconds)
Rocker Arms:
Ratio
Clearance on Shaft
Valves:
Intake:
Material
Head Diameter
Seat Angle
Stem Diameter
Stem Clearance in Guide
Exhaust:
Material
Head Diameter
Seat Angle
Stem Diameter
Stem Clearance in Guide
Valve Springs — Pressure at Length:
Valve Closed
Pearlitic Malleable Iron
F r o m Top of Cylinder Bore
Removable, Steel-Backed
Aluminum
.737"
.0020" to .0023"
.006" to .014"
18,72 mm.
0,0508 a 0,0584 mm.
0,153 a 0,356 mm.
Pearlitic Malleable Iron
Second Main Bearing
.004" to .008"
0,102 a 0,203 mm.
Removable
Moraine 100
.864"
1.057"
.0005" to .0021"
2.4995"
2.0000"
.015"
21,95 mm.
2,685 cm.
0,0127 a 0,0533 mm.
6,349 cm.
5,080 cm.
0,381 cm.
Cast Iron Alloy
Steel-Backed Babbitt
.0015" to .0040"
1.755" to 1.756"
1.725" to 1.726"
1.695" to 1.696"
1.665" to 1.666"
I n Cylinder Block, at Center of V
Chain and Sprocket
54
Aluminum, Nylon Coated
Sintered Iron
Hydraulic
.8422" to .8427"
.0015" to .0030"
12 to 60
1.6:1
.0017" to .0032"
Steel, S A E 1041
1.625"
45°
.3415" to .3427"
.0012" to .0032"
GM-N82152 (21-4N)
1.3750"
45°
.3402" to .3412"
.3397" to .3407"
.0015" to .0035" (top)
.002" to .004" (bottom)
1.640" at 59 - 64 lb.
1.260" at 168 lb.
0,0381 a 0,1016 mm.
4,458
4,382
4,305
4,229
a
a
a
a
4,460
4,384
4,307
4,231
cm.
cm.
cm.
cm.
21,39 a 21,40 mm.
0,0381 a 0,0762 mm.
0,0432 a 0,0812 mm.
4,128 cm.
8,674 a 8,704 mm.
3,4925 cm.
8,641
8,628
0,0381
0,051
a
a
a
a
8,666 mm.
8,653 mm.
0,0889 mm.
0,102 mm.
4,16 cm. at 26,76 - 29,03 kg.
3,20 cm. at 76,20 kg.
107
Dl
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
D1-10S. DAUNTLESS V-6 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS—Continued
English
LUBRICATION SYSTEM:
T y p e of Lubrication:
Main Beasings
Connecting R o d Bearings
Piston Pins.
Camshaft Bearings
Rocker Arms
Timing Chain
Cylinder Walls
Oil Pump:
Type
Drive
Normal Oil Pressure
Oil Pressure Sending U n i t . .
Oil Intake
Oil Filter System
Filter Type
Crankcase Capacity:
Without Filter
With Filter.
108
Metric
Pressure
Pressure
Splash
Pressure
Pressure
Splash and Nozzle
Splash and Nozzle
Gear
Camshaft Gear
33 psi. at 2400 rpm.
Electrical
Screened Tube
F u l l Flow Type
Throwaway Element and C a n
4 qt.
5 qt.
2
2,32 kg-cm at 2400 rpm.
3,8 ltr.
4,7 ltr.
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
E
F U E L SYSTEM
Contents
SUBJECT
GENERAL
F U E L EVAPORATIVE EMISSION
CONTROL SYSTEM
Canister
Demand Valve
Fuel Tank.
Inspection Test.
Sealed Gas Cap.
Servicing System
Vapor Separator or Expansion Tank
SUBJECT
PAR.
E-1
PAR.
.E-44
Dash Pot Adjustment
nal Carburetor A d j u s t m e n t s . . . . . . . . . E - 4 0
? * ^ Idle Adjustment
. E-43
System
. . .E-26
. Bowl Body Assembly
E-38
Fuel Bowl Body Disassembly
E-34
Idle System
E-27
Main Metering System
E-28
Power System
. E-29
Throttle Body Assembly
.E-37
Throttle Body Removal, and Disassembly. .E-35
r
..E-2
.E-3
E-4
.E-5
E-8
E-7
E-9
E-6
CARBURETOR — HURRICANE
F4 E N G I N E . . .
......
. . . . . , . . .E-10
Accelerating Pump S y s t e m . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-19
Accelerating Pump Maintenance
E-20
Carburetor Reassembly
E-2 2
Carburetor Disassembly
E-21
Choke System
E-17
Dash Pot Adjustment
E-44
Fast Idle Adjustment
E-18
Float Adjustment
E-12
Float System.
E-ll
High-Speed System
. .E-15
Idle Adjustment
.E-14
Low-Speed System
. E-13
Metering Rod Adjustment
E-16
F U E L PUMP — HURRICANE
F4 E N G I N E .
E-45, 54, 60
Cleaning and I n s p e c t i o n . . . . . . . . . . . . . .E-57, 63
Disassembly
E-46, 56, 62
Installation
E-59, 65
Reassembly
.E-47, 58, 64
Removal
E-55, 61
Testing.
E-49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 66
Vacuum Pump
E-48
CARBURETOR ~r DAUNTLESS
V-6 E N G I N E
.E-25
Accelerator Pump Adjustment
E-41
Accelerator Pump System.
. E-30
Air Horn Body Assembly
E-39
Air Horn Body Removal and Disassembly. E-33
Carburetor Cleaning and Inspection
E-36
Carburetor Removal
E-32
Choke System
E-31
Curb-Idle Speed and Mixture Adjustment. .E-42
F U E L TANK AND LINES
Float Unit
Fuel Lines
Fuel Tank
Fuel Tank Cap
Fuel Tank Installation.
Fuel Tank Removal
S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS
E-1. G E N E R A L
The fuel system of the Jeep Universal vehicle,
whether equipped with a Hurricane F4 or Dauntless V-6 Engine, consists of the fuel tank, fuel lines,
fuel pump, carburetor and air cleaner. Fig. E-1, E-2.
Vehicles equipped with a Fuel Evaporative Emission Control System also include a non-vent
pressure and vacuum sensitive gas cap, a liquid
expansion and vapor separator tank, a carbon filled
vapor storage canister, and a vapor purge line.
Service information pertaining to the Fuel Evaporative Emission Control System is outlined in
Par. E-2 through E-9. Refer to Figs. E-3 and E-4.
The most important attention necessary to the fuel
system is to keep it clean and free from water. It
should be periodically inspected for leaks.
gum in the units of the fuel system. Gum formation
is similar to hard varnish and may cause the fuel
pump valves or the carburetor float valve to become stuck or the filter screen blocked. Acetone
or commercial fuel system cleaners will dissolve
gum formation. I n extreme cases it will be necessary
to dissassemble and clean the fuel system. I n most
cases, however, a good commercial fuel system solvent used in accordance with the manufacturer's
instructions or one pint [0,6 ltr.] of acetone placed
in the fuel tank with about one gallon [4,5 ltr.]
of gasoline will dissolve any deposits as it passes
through the system with the gasoline.
CAUTION—Whenever a vehicle is to be stored for
an extended period, the fuel system should be completely drained, the engine started and allowed to
run until the carburetor is emptied. This will avoid
oxidization of the fuel, resulting in the formation of
F U E L PUMP — DAUNTLESS
V-6 E N G I N E
Removal
AIR C L E A N E R — CARBURETOR
ACCELERATOR LINKAGE
SPECIFICATIONS.
E-67
E-68
E-69
.E-70
E-71
. .E-76
E-77
. . .E-72
E-75
E-74
E-73
E-78
E-79
E-2. F U E L EVAPORATIVE EMISSION
CONTROL SYSTEM
Description and Operation
• Refer to Figs. E-3 and E-4.
The Fuel Evaporative Emission Control System
is designed to reduce fuel vapor emission that
109
E
FUEL
SYSTEM
F I G . E - 1 — F U E L S Y S T E M — E A R L Y MODEL—F-4
1 — Fuel Line T o Carburetor
2— Carburetor
3— Choke Cable
ENGINE
4—Accelerator Treadle
5—Fuel T a n k and Gauge
6—Fuel Pump
F I G . E - 2 — F U E L S Y S T E M — E A R L Y MODEL—V-6 E N G I N E
1— Fuel Line T o Carburetor
2— Carburetor
3— Choke Cable
4— Accelerator Treadle
normally vents to the atmosphere from the vehicle
fuel system.
The fuel vapor system consists of internal fuel tank
venting, a vacuum /pressure fuel tank cap, a vapor
separator or expansion tank, vapor canister, and
closed external carburetor venting. The same basic
system is used on all 'Jeep' vehicles, as shown in
Fig. E-3.
This system involves means of trapping the fuel
vapors through the use of a charcoal canister which
absorbs the vapor and stores it until it can be re110
5—Fuel
6—Fuel
7—Fuel
8—Fuel
T a n k and Gauge
Pump
Line T o Fuel Pump
R e t u r n Line
moved to be burned in the engine. This removal is
performed by drawing these vapors through the
purge line into the crankcase ventilation system
which in turn enters the intake manifold. In addition to the canister, the fuel tank requires a sealed
gas cap and extra vents to a liquid separator or
expansion tank. This prevents liquid gasoline from
entering the vapor system. Thus, as vapors are
generated in the fuel tank, they flow through the
liquid separator or expansion tank to the canister
and are routed to the intake manifold through the
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
FIG.
E
E-3—FUEL EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL S Y S T E M H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
A—Side View
1 — Charcoal Canister
2—Purge Line
3— Fuel Tank
4— Fuel Filler Hose
5— Non-Vented Gas Cap
crankcase vent system. The charcoal canister incorporates an integral demand valve which regulates vapors entering the canister as well as a limit
fill valve to control air trapping during tank fill.
The Fuel Evaporative Emission Control System
incorporates the following new or modified parts:
E - 3 . Canister
The canister used for the vapor control system has
provisions for containing activated charcoal granules. The material used for the canister body is a
special, fuel resistant, heat stabilized nylon. At the
top of the canister there is the demand valve which
has connections; one vents the vapor to the canister
while the other connection joins the canister to the
purge system. These tubes enter the canister on
opposite sides of a baffle which permits uniform
vapor distribution throughout the canister. The
B—Plan View
6—Vapor Separator or Expansion T a n k
7— Fuel Gauge
8— Fuel Line-to-Fuel Pump
9 — p . C . V . Crankcase Valve
10—Fuel Pump
bottom of the canister is fitted with a filter element
that allows fuel tank venting to atmosphere after
vapors are trapped in the activated charcoal.
E-4. Demand Valve
The demand valve is integral with the canister. It
is essenitally a combination pressure regulator and
vacuum relief valve. This valve regulates the rate
of vapor flowing from the fuel tank into the canister.
The valve consists of a housing, a spring loaded
diaphragm, a diaphragm cover, and a vacuum
relief valve. The operation of the unit is such that
as tank vent pressure increases the diaphragm lifts,
permitting vapor to enter the canister. The pressure under which this occurs is 4" to 6" H 2 O . This
action regulates the flow of vapors into the canister
under severe soak and operation conditions (temp,
changes), but generally prohibits the flow of vapor
111
E
FUEL SYSTEM
9
FIG. E-4—FUEL EVAPORATIVE EMISSION CONTROL
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
A—Side View
1— Charcoal Canister
2— P . C . V . Crankcase Valve
3— Purge Line
4— Fuel T a n k
5— Fuel Filler Hose
during normal temperature vehicle operation, thus
minimizing driveability problems. An additional
feature of this valve is a built-in vacuum relief
which allows inward air flow under negative fuel
tank pressure conditions. The valve housing contains the normal tank vent and purge connections.
E-5. F u e l T a n k
The fuel tank is external expansion type. Fuel
tank venting is accomplished by several vapor
lines which lead to the vapor separator or expansion tank. The vapor lines which lead from the
fuel tank are located at the front and rear so that
during any inclination of the vehicle, at least one
line will be open to vent at all times.
E-6. V a p o r Separator or E x p a n s i o n T a n k
The vapor separator is chambered so that the rear
112
©
SYSTEM-
B—Plan View
6— Non-Vented Gas Cap
7— Vapor Separator or Expansion Tank
g — F i Gauge
9—Fuel Line-to-Fuel Pump
10—Fuei Return Line
u e
fuel tank vent lines lead into a separate chamber
with a fuel shutofl valve. This prevents solid fuel
from flowing from the fuel tank to the vapor canister during uphill operation or parking of the
vehicle. A single vapor vent line leads from the fuel
vapor separator to the vapor collection canister
where fuel vapors are stored until they can be drawn
into the engine and burned.
The expansion tank allows expansion of the fuel as
required during temperature changes and simultaneously becomes a liquid trap that only allows
vapors to pass.
E-7. Sealed G a s C a p
The sealed gas cap is designed to allow no vapors to
discharge into the atmosphere under normal
operation of the system. I f the system becomes
plugged or a failure of the demand valve occurs
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
there is a relief valve that opens to reduce high
(dangerous) pressures in the fuel tank. I n conjunction with the pressure relief valve there is a
vacuum relief valve to stop collapse of the fuel
tank in case of a plugged system or failure of the
demand valve. When replacing the gas cap, the
same type must be used as originally installed.
E-8. System Inspection T e s t
The fuel emission vent system should be checked
carefully to ensure the absence of any leaks to the
atmosphere of either liquid or vapor which might
affect the accuracy, safety, or performance of the
control system.
To assure that the sealed system has been properly
installed, the following test procedure has been
developed.
Disconnect the vent line from the fuel tank system
to the activated charcoal canister, induce /i p.s.i.
air pressure. I f this pressure can be maintained for
a few seconds the vent system is assured to be
sealed. DO NOT add air pressure to the canister
because damage can occur to the demand valve if
care is not taken.
l
E - 9 . Servicing the System
Periodic Maintenance — Replace carbon canister
filter at 12,000 miles [19,200 km.] or 12 month intervals (more often for operation in dusty areas).
This is the only regular maintenance service
required.
Canister Filter Replacement — Disconnect hoses
from top of canister, remove canister from mount -
t
FIG. E-5—CARBURETOR—
F4 E N G I N E , E A R L Y M O D E L
1— Choke Clamp Bracket
2— Choke Shaft and Lever Assembly
3— Fuel Inlet Elbow
4— Bowl Vent Tube
5— Idle Air Adjusting Needle
6— Throttle Lever and Shaft Assembly
7— Idle Speed Adjusting Screw
8— Fast Idle Connector Rod
E
ing bracket. Remove cover from bottom of canister
by pulling it down to disengage clips. Remove and
discard polyurethane filter element (squeeze element out from under retainer bar). Install new
filter by squeezing element under retainer bar and
positioning it evenly around entire bottom of
canister with edges tucked under canister lip, snap
bottom cover in place, reinstall canister on bracket
and reconnect hoses.
Vapor line hoses used in this system are made of
special rubber material. Bulk hoses are available for
parts service. Ordinary rubber hose should not be
used to service vapor lines as they are subject to
deterioration and may clog the system. Liquid
vapor separators or expansion tanks and canisters
are serviced as complete units only. Canister air
filters, however, are serviced separately.
E-10. C A R B U R E T O R — H U R R I C A N E
F4 E N G I N E
A single-barrel manual choke, down-draft carburetor (Fig. E - 6 ) is used on the Hurricane F 4 engine.
The carburetor is internally vented by a tube
opening located in the air horn body of the carburetor. This opening is connected by a rubber
tube to the air outlet horn of the air cleaner thus
allowing only filtered atmospheric pressure air
to enter the float chamber for balance pressure
of the carburetor fuel.
Note: A carburetor with a specific flow characteristic is used for exhaust emission control. The
carburetor is identified by a number, and the correct
carburetor must be used, when replacement is
necessary.
Early production models CJ-3B, CJ-5, CJ-5A,
CJ-6, and CJ-6A have a Carter YF-938SD carburetor superseding the earlier YF-938SC, YF-938SA,
or YF-938S models.
Note." Conversion kits for changing earlier models
to S D models are available. See Par E-23. It is
recommended that when a carburetor is converted
that a tag be fashioned stamped with the new
model number and installed under one of the air
horn screws. Look for such a tag to determine if
the carburetor has previously been converted.
Carburetors listed above are all in the same Y F
series and have only minor differences. Descriptions
and repair procedures given in the following paragraphs apply equally to all YF-series carburetors.
YF-series carburetors employ manual and vacuum
control of the metering rod and accelerator pump.
The carburetor controls and vaporizes the fuel
through five separate systems: float system, lowspeed system, high-speed system, choke system,
and accelerating-pump system. A description of the
function and operation of each system provides an
over all description of the carburetor.
For identification, the series designation is stamped
on the body under the name Carter and the model
designation is stamped on a flange protruding
from the body.
Note: When checking for carburetor icing causes,
also check the vacuum-pump-to-manifold vacuum
line connector.
113
FUEL SYSTEM
E-11. Float System
The float system, Fig. E-7, consists of a float,
float pin, air horn gasket and the needle and seat
assembly. These parts control the fuel level in the
carburetor bowl, a supply being maintained for all
systems under all operating conditions. To prevent
float vibration from affecting the fuel level, the
inlet or float valve is spring loaded. Should the
needle and seat become worn, they must be replaced with a matched set, including the spring,
which is the only way they are supplied. When
reinstalling the float, be sure to install the float pin
with the stop shoulder on the side away from the
bore of the carburetor.
14261
FIG. E-6—CARBURETOR—
F4 E N G I N E , L A T E M O D E L
1— Choke Clamp Bracket
2— Throttle Lever and Shaft
3— Choke Shaft and Lever
4— Bowl Vent Tube
5— Fuel Inlet Elbow
6— Dash Pot Bracket
7— Throttle Lever
8— Dash Pot Plunger
9— Dash Pot Assembly
10— Lock Nut
11— Stop Pin
1 2—Idle Mixture Limiter Cap
13— Idle Speed Adjusting Screw
14— Fast Idle Connecting Rod
E-12. Float Adjustment
Correct float level setting is required for accurate
metering of fuel in both low- and high-speed jets.
To set the float, remove and invert the bowl cover.
Remove the bowl cover gasket. Allow the weight
of the float to rest on the needle and spring. Be
sure there is no compression of the spring other
than the weight of the float. Adjust the level by
bending the float arm lip that contacts the needle
(not the arm) to provide specified clearance between the float and cover. The specified clearance
of the float is 74\ [6,74 mm.] on current models
(including Exhaust Emission Control) and
[7,93 mm.] on early models shown as A in Fig. E - 8 .
L
F
7
FIG. E-8—FLOAT L E V E L
'.. j
io8Si i
GAUGING
E-13. Low-Speed System
Fuel for idle and early part-throttle operation is
metered through the low-speed system. The lowspeed system is illustrated in Fig. E-9. Liquid fuel
enters the idle well through the metering rod jet.
Low-speed jet measures the amount of fuel for
idle and early part-throttle operation. Air-by-pass,
economizer, and idle air bleed are carefully calibrated orifices which serve to break up the liquid
fuel and mix it with air as it moves through the
passage to the idle port and idle adjustment screw
port.
E-14. Idle Mixture A d j u s t m e n t
FIG. E-7—FLOAT SYSTEM
1— Float and Lever Assembly
2— Needle Valve and Seat Assembly
3—Vent
4—Float Bowl Cover
5—Float
114
Note: The idle mixture adjustment procedure for
the late model YF-4941S and YF-6115S Carter
Carburetor equipped with the External Idle
Mixture Limiter Cap is the same as outlined below
E
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
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FIG. E-9—LOW-SPEED SYSTEM
1— Body Flange
2—-Idle Adjustment Screw P o r t
3— Idle Port
4— Idle Well
5—L o w Speed Jet
6—Idle A i r Bleed
7—Air By-pass
8—Economizer
9—Metering R o d Jet
10—Idle Adjustment Screw
in Pars. "A" through "D"; however, because of the
Idle Limiter Cap, the idle mixture screw C A N N O T
be adjusted in the counter-clockwise (rich) direction. The adjustment is made from the rich stop
position and the mixture screw is turned in (clockwise) approximately % turn to "Lean Best Idle."
Refer to Fig. E - 6 .
The "Lean Best Idle" method of idle setting is as
follows:
a. Any scheduled service of ignition system should
precede this adjustment.
b. Connect tachometer or vacuum gauge to engine.
c. Warm up engine and stabilize temperatures.
d. Adjust engine idle to speed desired, using throttle idle speed adjusting screw.
e. Carburetors without Idle Limiter Cap turn idle
mixture screws out (counterclockwise) until a loss
of engine speed is indicated; then slowly turn mixture screw in (clockwise -leaner) until maximum
speed ( R P M ) is reached. Continue turning in
(clockwise) until speed begins to drop; turn mixture
adjustment back out (counterclockwise -rich) until
maximum speed is just regained at a "lean as
possible" mixture adjustment.
E-15. High-Speed System
Fuel for part-throttle and full-throttle operation
is supplied through the high-speed system shown
in Fig. E-10. A metering rod and metering rod
jet control the amount of fuel admitted through
the nozzle for high-speed operation. The lower
end of the metering rod is calibrated in size to
accurately meter the fuel required. As the rod
13346
FIG. E-10—HIGH-SPEED SYSTEM
1—Nozzle
2 —Metering Rod
3— Pump Lifter Link
4— Metering Rod Arm Assembly
5— Diaphragm Shaft
6 — Upper Pump Spring
7—Pump Diaphragm Spring
8—Diaphragm Assembly
9—Chamber
10—Metering R o d Jet
11—Carburetor Casting
12—Carburetor Bore
is automatically raised and lowered in the jet,
the opening in the jet is varied in size to supply
fuel proportionate to the requirements through the
higher speed and power range. The metering rod
is both mechanically and vacuum controlled and is
attached to the metering rod arm assembly.
During part-throttle operation, vacuum in chamber
pulls diaphragm down, holding metering arm
assembly against pump lifter link.
Movement of the metering rod is controlled by the
pump lifter link which is attached to the carburetor
throttle shaft. At all times vacuum in the chamber
is strong enough to overcome the tension of pump
diaphragm spring. Upper pump spring serves as
a bumper upon deceleration and as a delayed
action spring upon acceleration. Under any operating condition, when the pump diaphragm spring
overcomes vacuum in the chamber, the metering
rod will move toward the wide throttle (power)
position.
Note: Nozzle is pressed in and should not be
removed.
E-16. Metering Rod Adjustment
Check metering rod adjustment each time the
carburetor is reassembled. Before adjustment is
made, be sure that the flat of metering rod arm
is parallel to the flat of pump lifter link as shown
(Fig. E-10.). With the throttle valve seated in carburetor bore, press down on the upper end of
diaphragm shaft until the diaphragm bottoms
in the vacuum chamber. The metering rod should
now seat on casting with the metering rod
arm flat against the pump lifter link. If the metering rod does not seat on the casting (check by
115
E
FUEL SYSTEM
pressing downward on metering rod) or seats before the metering rod arm makes flat contact with
the pump lifter link, make adjustment by bending
the lip on the metering rod arm.
E-17. Choke System
The choke system consists of a manually-operated
choke valve, a fast-idle connecting rod, and a fastidle arm. The choke valve is offset-spring loaded
to prevent over-choking during the starting warmup period. When the choke valve is moved to a
closed position for starting, the fast idle connector
rod in Fig. E - l l revolves the fast idle link. This
action increases the engine idle speed to prevent
stalling during the warm-up period. A fast-idle
connector rod return spring prevents partial closing
of the choke valve.
FIG. E-ll—FAST IDLE
1—Fast Idle Connector Rod
Note: The pump jet (see insert drawing in Fig.
E-12) projecting into the air stream is permanently
pressed into the carburetor body and should not
be removed. Also, carburetor design makes it impossible to adjust the pump stroke.
ADJUSTMENT
2—Fast Idle L i n k
E-18. Fast Idle Adjustment
With the choke held in wide open position, lip
(No. 1) (Fig. E - l l ) on the fast-idle rod should contact the boss on the body casting. Adjust by bending the fast-idle link at offset as shown by (No. 2).
E-19. Accelerating P u m p System
The accelerating pump system shown in Fig. E-12
provides a measured amount of fuel for rapid
acceleration and smooth engine operation when
the throttle is opened at lower speeds. In operation,
vacuum is applied to the underside of diaphragm
at all times when the engine is running. Lower
and more uniform vacuum is provided by vacuum
restriction and vacuum bleed passage. When the
diaphragm is in its maximum down position at
low throttle resulting from high vacuum in chamber
the chamber above the diaphragm is full of fuel
which has been admitted through intake passage.
When the throttle is opened, vacuum drops in the
chamber and the diaphragm is initially forced
upward by the spring on the diaphragm shaft.
The upward motion is picked up by accelerator
116
pump lifter which is connected to the throttle.
This movement forces fuel from the chamber
above the diaphragm through discharge pump
check valve and discharge pump jet. This auxiliary
discharge of fuel supplies engine requirements for
quick acceleration and heavy loads. When the
throttle is closed, the diaphragm is again pulled
down by high vacuum and another measured
charge of fuel enters the chamber above the
diaphragm through the intake passage to be
available for the next cycle of operation.
|
FIG. E-12—ACCELERATING PUMP
1—Pump Fuel Passage
2— Discharge Pump Jet
3—P u m p Check Valve Ball
4—Bail Check Weight
5 — Pump Lifter Arm
13347
SYSTEM
6—Intake Passage
7—Diaphragm
8—Vacuum Chamber
9—Vacuum Restriction Jet
10—Vacuum Bleed Passage
E-20. Accelerating P u m p Maintenance
If engine acceleration is unsatisfactory, remove the
pump diaphragm and check the diaphragm for wear
or damage. Then remove the pump check retainer
ring located directly above the pump check weight
and pump ball check. Pump ball check must seat
properly as a leak will cause poor acceleration
performance. Inspect and replace all worn or
damaged parts. Clean and blow out all passages
with compressed air. Note that when testing the
pump for discharge volume with the carburetor
off the engine, only half of the maximum pump
capacity will be discharged. When the engine is
operating, vacuum controls the balance of discharge.
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
E
the unit and tap lightly to remove ball check valve
retainer and ball check valve.
e. Loosen the screw locking the throttle shaft arm
to the throttle shaft. Remove the throttle shaft
arm and pump connector link.
f. Remove diaphragm housing screws. Entire assembly can now be lifted out of the body. This
assembly can easily be disassembled and reassembled if necessary.
g. On early models carefully remove pump intake
strainer housing using tip of knife blade.
h. With the air horn in an upside-down position,
remove pin and float. Invert the air horn and
catch needle pin and needle pin spring.
i. Remove metering rod jet. Remove low-speed
jet.
Note: The Carter YF-6115S Carburetor has a
throttle return spring attached from the carburetor
main body to the carburetor throttle shaft. The
purpose of this spring is to return the throttle to
idle speed position should a linkage failure occur.
E-21. Carburetor Disassembly
• Refer to Fig. E-13.
a. Pry pin spring and clevis clip free and remove
fast-idle connector rod.
b- Remove air horn and bowl cover attaching
screws and lockwashers. Remove choke tube clamp
assembly.
c. Remove air horn assembly and gasket.
d. Remove ball check valve retainer ring. Invert
FIG.
E-13—CARBURETOR
1— Choke Shaft and Lever
2— Screw
3— Choke Lever Spring
4— Screw and Washer
5—Choke Valve Screw
6— Choke Valve
7—Screw and Washer
8—Air Horn
9— Needle Seat Gasket
10—Needle Spring and Seat
11—Needle Pin
12—Float Pin
13— Float
14— Gasket
15—Pump Spring
16—Metering Rod Arm
17—Pump L i n k
18—Pump Spring Retainer
19—Vacuum Diaphragm Spring
20—Screw and washer
21—Diaphragm Housing
22— Diaphragm
23—Body
24— Gasket
25—Idle Port Plug
26—Throttle Body Lever and Shaft Assembly
27—Pump L i n k Connector
28—Throttle Shaft Arm
29—Screw and Washer
30—Throttle Valve
31—Throttle Valve Screw
32—Fast Idle Arm
33—Adjusting Screw
34—Body Flange Plug
35— Clevis Clip
36—Idle Adjusting Screw
37—Idle Screw Spring
38—Fast Idle Connector R o d
39—Pin Spring
40— Ball Check Valve
41—Ball Check Valve Retainer Ring
42—Metering R o d Jet
43—Low Speed Jet
44— Metering Rod
45—Metering Rod Spring
46— Inner Pump Spring
47— Pump Spring Retainer
48—Bracket and Clamp Assembly
(Choke and Throttle)
5^—31
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1X892
117
E
FUEL
SYSTEM
Note: Do not remove pressed-in parts such as
nozzle, pump jet, or antipercolator air bleed.
C A U T I O N : Linkage must not bind in any throttle
position. If binding occurs, loosen clamp screw in
throttle arm, adjust slightly, then retighten screw.
j . Remove body flange attaching screws, body
flange assembly, and gasket.
k. Remove idle-adjustment screw, spring, idle
port rivet, throttle lever assembly, washer, fast
idle arm, throttle plate screws, throttle plate, and
throttle shaft.
1. Remove throttle shaft seal by prying out seal
retainer.
m. Install pump check disc, disc retainer, and lock
ring.
n. Install metering rod and pin spring. Connect
metering rod spring.
o. Check and if necessary correct meter ing rod
adjustment. Follow procedure of Par. E-16.
p. Install needle seat and gasket assembly, needle,
float and float pin. The stop shoulder on the float
pin must be on the side away from the bore of
the carburetor.
q. Set float level to specifications. Follow procedure of Par. E-12.
r. Install air horn gasket and air horn assembly.
Install attaching screws, lock washers, and choke
tube clamp assembly. Tighten center screws first,
s. Slide choke shaft and lever assembly into place
and connect choke lever spring. Install choke valve.
Center the valve by tapping lightly, then hold in
place with fingers when tightening screws,
t. Install fast-idle connector rod with offset portion
of rod on top and pin spring on outside. Install
fast-idle connecting rod spring.
Note: Do not remove pressed-in vacuum passage
orifice.
m . Remove choke valve screws and choke valve.
Unhook choke spring and slide shaft from housing,
n. Wash all parts in carburetor cleaning solution
and blow out passages with compressed air. Do not
immerse diaphragm or seals in cleaning solution.
Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Always use
new gaskets when reassembling.
E-22. Carburetor Reassembly
• Refer to Fig. E-13.
To expedite reassembly, it is advisable to group all
related parts by the circuit to which they belong.
a. Install throttle shaft seal and retainer in flange
casting.
b. Install fast-idle arm, washer, and lever assembly
on throttle shaft. Slide shaft into place and install
throttle valve.
c. Install idle port rivet plug and idle adjusting
screw and spring.
d. Attach flange assembly to body casting. Use
new gasket.
e. Install low-speed jet assembly.
f. Early production models install pump intake
strainer in pump diaphragm housing and carefully
press into recess.
Note: I f strainer is even slightly damaged, a new
one must be installed.
g. Install pump diaphragm assembly in diaphragm
housing. Then, install pump diaphragm spring
(lower) and retainer.
h. Install pump lifter link, metering rod arm, upper
pump spring, and retainer.
I. Install metering rod jet.
Note: No gasket is used with this jet.
j . Install diaphragm housing attaching screws in
the diaphragm housing, making sure that the
edges of the diaphragm are not wrinkled. Lower
into place and tighten screws evenly and securely,
k. Install throttle shaft seal, dust seal washer, and
shaft seal spring.
I. Install pump connector link in the throttle arm
assembly. Install throttle shaft arm assembly on
throttle shaft guiding connector link in pump lifter
link hole.
118
E-23. Correcting Acceleration Flat Spot
Early production Carburetor Models 938-S, 938SA, 938-SC
Inasmuch as a flat spot on acceleration or low speed
stumble can come from causes other than carburetor malfunction, it is recommended that engine
tuning be thoroughly checked before attempting
any actual carburetor work. Make sure that
ignition, compression, and timing are correct and
that fuel pump is supplying enough gas. Also,
the F-head engine employs a water-heated intake
manifold. Proper vaporization of the fuel depends
on correct intake manifold temperature. Since this
temperature is controlled by the cooling system
thermostat, include an operational check of the
thermostat when diagnosing the stumble. Operating
temperatures consistently below 155°F. can cause
stumble.
If the stumble persists, a YF-938-S, YF-938-SA,
or YF-938-SC carburetor can be converted to a
YF-938-SD carburetor by installing Special K i t
924161, consisting of a pump discharge check
needle, a metering rod, and a metering rod jet. If
this kit is installed, the pump discharge check
needle replaces the original ball, weight, and retainer and the small wire-type retainer used with
the ball check assembly must not be reinstalled.
When installing the kit, check the size of the pump
discharge jet, No. 2, Fig. E-14. Early production
YF-938S and YF-938SA carburetors have a .025"
[0,635 mm.] jet installed. If the carburetor being
converted has a .025" jet it must be opened up to
.031" [0,787 mm.] by running a No. 68 drill through
the jet as shown in Fig. E-14. The jet must be drilled
as it is a pressed in part and cannot be replaced.
Upon completing the installation of the conversion
kit, mark or tag the carburetor to indicate that it
is a YF-938SD.
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'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L SERIES S E R V I C E M A N U A L
E-25. C A R B U R E T O R — D A U N T L E S S V-6
ENGINE
A double-barrel, manual choke, down-draft carburetor (Fig. E-15) is used on the Dauntless V-6
engine.
Note: A carburetor with a specific flow characteristic is used for exhaust emission control. The
carburetor is identified by a number, and the
correct carburetor must be used, when replacement
is necessary.
FIG.
E-14—DRILLING CARBURETOR JET
1— D r i l l ( 68 size)
2— Accelerator Pump Discharge Jet
#
E-24. Steep-Grade Carburetor K i t
I n the field where a vehicle equipped with Carter
carburetor 938-S is required to idle on steep
slopes, flooding of the carburetor sometimes results.
A steep-grade carburetor k i t is available that will
allow satisfactory idle operation under this condition. This k i t (Part No. #94481, Carter # 75-960U)
contains a metering rod, a metering rod jet, and a
plug.
To install this kit, replace the standard metering
rod and metering rod jet w i t h those contained i n
the kit. Place the small brass plug in the accelerator
pump well. Exert finger pressure only when i n stalling this plug. Forcing the plug i n too far will
damage the accelerator jet. Make certain the metering rod and float level are set to specifications.
When reworking the carburetor to include this
steep-grade k i t , check to determine i f the seal
(Carter #121-172) and retainer (Carter #136-152)
are installed. I f these parts are not present, they
should be installed.
The carburetor fuel bowl is located forward of
the main bores. The carburetor is compact in design
in that all of the fuel metering is centrally located.
See Fig. E 16.
This carburetor uses a calibrated cluster design
w i t h main well tubes, idle tubes, mixture passages,
air bleeds and pump jets in one removable assembly. This cluster assembly can be easily removed for cleaning and inspection purposes. I t is
mounted on a flat portion of the carburetor bowl
in front of the main venturi. The idle and main
well tubes are precision pressed fit in the cluster
body. They cannot be serviced separately. The
main nozzles and idle tubes are suspended i n the
main wells of the float bowl.
The main metering jets are of the fixed type. A
system of calibrated air bleeds gives correct fuelair mixture throughout all operational ranges.
This carburetor has a vacuum-operated power system which supplies extra fuel when needed. Power
mixtures are regulated by drop i n engine manifold
vacuum, regardless of throttle opening. Thus, additional fuel is supplied for power mixtures according to engine demands.
The accelerator pump plunger has a vapor vent
ball i n its head. This ball and its seat form a valve
to vent any fuel vapors which form in the pump
well to the fuel bowl during hot-engine operation.
This ensures that the pump well and passages will
be primed with solid fuel at all times and improves accelerator pump action.
The carburetor is internally vented through a hole
in the air horn.
FIG. E - 1 5 — C A R B U R E T O R D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
1— Fuel Inlet
2— Choke
3— Choke Cable Bracket
4—Idle Speed Adjusting Screw
5—Idle Fuel-air Mixture Screws
FIG.
E-16—FUEL BOWL BODY—TOP
1—Pump Return Spring
2— M a i n Metering Jets
VIEW
3—Power Valve
4—Cluster Assembly
119
E
FUEL SYSTEM
There are six adjustments: curb idle speed, curb
idle mixture, float level, float drop, accelerator
pump, and fast idle.
This carburetor has six basic systems: float, low
speed, main metering, power, accelerator pump
and choke.
E-26. Float System
The float system controls fuel level in the carburetor fuel bowl. It maintains constant fuel level
to assure proper metering through all operating
ranges.
Fuel enters the carburetor through the inlet screen
and inlet valve. It flows past the valve needle and
into the fuel bowl. Fuel continues to flow until
increasing fuel level raises the float to a position
in which it forces the inlet valve needle into its
seat. This closes the inlet valve. As fuel is used
from the bowl, the float moves downward slightly.
This allows the valve needle to move away from its
seat. This again allows fuel to enter the fuel bowl
to maintain fuel level. In this manner, float level
maintains fuel level constant. See Fig. E-17.
12838
F I G . E-17—FLOAT S Y S T E M
1— Internal Bowl Vent
2— Float
3— Needle Pull C l i p
4—Float Tang
5—Float Needle
6—Needle Seat
A float prong, at the rear of the float arm between
the float hangers, prevents the float from moving
too far downward, yet allows it to move downward
far enough to allow maximum fuel flow into the
bowl. A pull clip connects the float arm to the valve
needle. This keeps the needle from sticking in the
seat because of dirt or gum formation.
E-27. Idle System
During engine idle operation, air flow through the
carburetor venturi is very low. It is insufficient to
cause fuel to flow from the main discharge nozzles.
Therefore, the idle system supplies fuel-air mixture
during idle and low-speed operation.
The idle system consists of the idle tubes, idle passages, idle air bleeds, idle mixture adjustment
needles, off-idle discharge slots and idle discharge
ports. See Fig. E-18.
120
F I G . E-18—IDLE S Y S T E M
1 — Idle A i r Bleed
6—Throttle Valve
2—Idle A i r Bleed
7—Idle Needle Hole
3— I d l e Restriction
8—Adjustment Needles
4—Lower Idle Restriction
9—Main Metering Jets
5—Off Idle Discharge Port
10—Idle Tube
A — T h r o t t l e Valve i n Off Idle Position
In idle speed position, each throttle valve is slightly
open. This allows a small amount of air to pass
between the carburetor bore wall and the throttle
valve. Since there is not enough air flow for venturi action, manifold vacuum draws fuel directly
from the fuel bowl through the idle system.
Fuel from the float bowl passes through each main
metering jet into the main well. A metered amount
of fuel flows through the idle tube restriction. I t
then passes up the idle tube to a passage where
it is mixed with air drawn through two calibrated
idle air bleeds. Fuel-air mixture then flows through
a calibrated restriction into a vertical passage. I t
passes through another calibrated restriction to
the off-idle discharge slot just above each throttle
valve. This injects additional air. It then flows
through the idle discharge port. The idle mixture
needle controls the amount of fuel-air mixture
which enters the carburetor bore at curb-idle position of the throttle valve.
As the throttle valve opens farther, more and more
of the off-idle discharge slot is exposed to manifold
vacuum. This slot supplies additional fuel-air mixture to meet off-idle engine requirements.
E-28. Main Metering System
As the throttle valve continues to open, its edge
moves away from the carburetor bore wall. This
reduces vacuum applied to the idle discharge port
and off-idle discharge slot, so that the idle system
ceases to supply fuel-air mixture.
With increased throttle opening, air velocity
through the venturi increases. This causes a decrease of pressure in the carburetor bore, which is
multiplied in the venturi. See Fig. E-19.
Since the low air pressure (vacuum) is in the
venturi at this time, fuel flows as follows:
Fuel from the float bowl passes through the main
metering jets into the main well and rises into
the main well tubes. Air enters the main well
through the main well air bleeds and mixes with
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
F I G . E-19— MAIN M E T E R I N G SYSTEM
1— M a i n Nozzle
2— M i x t u r e Passage
3— Boost Venturi
4— M a i n Venturi
5— T h r o t t l e Valve
6— M a i n
7— M a i n
8— M a i n
9— M a i n
M e t e r i n g Jet
Well Insert
Well Tube
Well A i r Bleed
fuel through calibrated holes in the main well tube.
Fuel-air mixture then moves upward into a channel
where another calibrated amount of air is injected
through the main air bleed. It then flows downward through the channel to the venturi, where it
is discharged into the air stream, and then to the
intake manifold.
E-29. Power System
A vacuum-operated power piston in the air horn
and a power valve in the bottom of the float bowl
enrich fuel-air mixture when more power is desired.
This system also operates during extreme high
speed driving. Through a vacuum passage from the
carburetor base to the power cylinder, the power
piston is exposed to manifold vacuum. See Fig.
E-20.
During idle and part throttle operation, relatively
high vacuum holds the power piston in upward
position against spring tension so that the power
valve remains closed.
Increase in engine load decreases manifold vacuum.
When vacuum decreases sufficiently, the spring
overcomes vacuum and the power piston moves
downward. This opens the power valve to allow
additional fuel to flow through calibrated restrictions into the main well.
As the engine load decreases, resulting higher
vacuum overcomes spring tension on the power
piston and draws the power piston upward. This
closes the power valve.
This carburetor has a two-stage power valve. I n
the first stage, fuel is metered by the valve itself.
This stage occurs under light load. During heavy
load, the valve is fully opened to the second stage;
in this position, the power valve supplies fuel to
be metered by power restrictions in the fuel channel to the fuel bowl.
The power piston cavity is connected to the main
air flow passage by a vacuum relief passage. This
passage prevents transfer of vacuum to fuel in the
float bowl. Any leakage of air past the piston will
be compensated for by this relief passage; hence it
will not affect carburetor metering.
E-30. Accelerator Pump System
When the throttle valve opens rapidly, air flow
and manifold vacuum change almost instantaneously. However, heavier fuel-air mixture does not flow
immediately. Thus, momentarily, the engine does
not have sufficient fuel. The accelerator pump provides additional fuel necessary for engine operation
during acceleration.
A double-spring loaded pump plunger supplies fuel
for acceleration. Top and bottom springs move the
plunger to furnish a smooth, sustained charge of
fuel for acceleration. See Fig. E-21.
Fuel is drawn into the pump well past the inlet
check ball during the plunger intake (upward)
stroke.
Downward motion of the pump plunger seats the
inlet check ball and forces fuel through the discharge passage. This unseats the pump discharge
check ball. Fuel then sprays through the discharge
12837
F I G . E-20—POWER SYSTEM
1— Piston Vacuum Chamber
2—V a c u u s * Relief Passage
3— Main Well
4—^Power Restrictions
5— Power Valve
6— Power Piston Spring
7— Power Piston
F I G . E-21—ACCELERATOR PUMP S Y S T E M
1— Pump Jets
2— Discharge Check Ball
3— Discharge Passage
4— Inlet Check Ball
5— Inlet Screen
6—Vapor Vent Check Ball
7— Pump Plunger
121
E
FUEL SYSTEM
port into the venturi.
The check ball in the pump plunger head is a vapor
vent for the pump well. Without this vent, vapor
pressure in the pump would force fuel from the
pump system into the engine manifold, causing
hard starting when the engine is hot.
There is another hole in the pump lever, into which
the accelerator pump rod can be inserted to provide quicker pump action. This adjustment setting
is used only in extreme cold temperature conditions. The pump discharge check ball in the discharge passage prevents discharge of fuel from the
pump nozzles when the accelerator pump is inoperative.
E-31. Choke System
The choke system consists of a manually-operated
choke valve, a fast-idle connecting rod, and a fastidle arm. The choke valve is offset-spring loaded
to prevent over-choking during the starting warmup period. When the choke valve is moved to a
closed position for starting, the fast idle connector
rod revolves the fast idle link. This action increases
the engine idle speed to prevent stalling during the
warm-up period. A fast-idle connector rod return
spring prevents partial closing of the choke valve.
E-32. Carburetor Removal
a. Remove attaching wing nut and air cleaner from
carburetor.
b. Remove throttle cable from ball stud on throttle
lever adapter.
c . Disconnect fuel line from carburetor inlet fitting.
d. Disconnect positive crankcase ventilator hose
from nipple on carburetor body.
e. Disconnect distributor vacuum line from throttle
body of carburetor.
f. Remove four attaching cap screws, carburetor,
and gasket from intake manifold.
E-33. Air Horn Body Removal and
Disassembly
a. Remove attaching screws, and carefully lift air
horn body upward to remove from fuel bowl body.
b. Place air horn body in inverted position on
bench. Remove float hinge pin and lift float assembly from cover. Remove inlet valve needle
from float arm. Remove needle seat, fiber gasket
and seat screen from air horn body; discard gasket.
See Fig. E-22.
c . Depress shaft and allow spring to snap repeatedly to remove power piston from air horn
body. This will force power piston retaining washer
from air horn body.
d. Remove retainer from end of accelerator pump
plunger shaft. Remove pump assembly from pump
inner arm. Loosen set screw on inner arm and remove outer lever and shaft from plunger. Remove
gasket from air horn body or fuel bowl body and
discard.
e. Remove two retaining screws and choke valve
plate from choke shaft. Withdraw choke shaft from
air horn body. Remove choke lever and collar from
choke shaft. Note position of choke lever in relation
122
12856
F I G . E-22—AIR
HORN
BODY
1 — Float
2— Power Piston
3— Pump Plunger
4— Choke Valve
to choke trip lever at end of the choke shaft for
ease in reassembly.
E-34. Fuel Bowl Body Disassembly
a. Remove return spring of pump plunger and
pump well from fuel bowl body. Remove small
aluminum check ball from bottom of pump well
by inverting fuel bowl body and shaking into hand.
Remove pump inlet screen from bottom of fuel
bowl.
b. Remove main metering jets from fuel bowl body
using Tool C-3748.
c . Remove power valve and fiber gasket from fuel
bowl body; discard gasket.
d . Remove three attaching screws, venturi cluster
assembly, and gasket from fuel bowl body. Center
screw has smooth shank and fiber gasket for the
accelerator pump fuel bypass and seal.
e. Using a pair of long nosed pliers, remove T shaped retainer, accelerator pump discharge spring
and steel discharge ball from fuel bowl body.
f. Remove two inserts from main well.
E-35. Throttle Body Removal and
Disassembly
a. Invert fuel bowl body; remove three attaching
screws, throttle body and gasket; discard gasket.
b. Remove idle mixture adjustment needles and
springs from throttle body.
Note: No further disassembly of the throttle body
is required. The throttle valves should never be
removed, as the idle and spark holes are drilled in
direct relation to the location of the throttle valves
and shaft. Removal of the throttle valves will upset
this alignment. The throttle body assembly is serviced only as a complete assembly with throttle
valves intact.
E-36. Carburetor Cleaning and Inspection
Dirt, gum, water, or carbon contamination on the
9
'Jeep U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
exterior moving parts of a carburetor are often
responsible for unsatisfactory performance. For this
reason, efficient carburetion depends upon careful
cleaning and inspection while servicing.
a. Thoroughly clean carburetor castings and metal
parts in carburetor cleaning solvent.
C a u t i o n : Accelerator pump plunger and any fiber
or rubber parts should never be immersed in carburetor cleaner. Wash pump plunger in cleaning
solvent.
b. Blow out all passages in the castings with compressed air. Dry all parts with compressed air.
Make sure all jets and passages are clean. Do
not use wire to clean fuel passages or air bleeds.
c. Check inlet valve needle and seat for wear. I f
wear is noted, the assembly must be replaced.
d . Check float hinge pin for wear and check float
for damage.
e. Check throttle and choke shaft bores for wear
and out-of-round.
f. Inspect idle mixture adjustment needles for burrs
or grooves; replace if damaged.
g. Inspect cup of accelerator pump plunger; replace if damaged, worn, or hardened. Inspect pump
well in bowl for wear or scoring.
h. Check filter screens for dirt or lint. Clean, and
if they remain clogged, replace.
i. I f for any reason parts have become loose or
damaged in the cluster assembly, the assembly
must be replaced.
N o t e : Use ijew gaskets whenever the carburetor
is disassembled.
E-37. T h r o t t l e Body Assembly
a . Install idle mixture adjustment needles and
springs in throttle body. Tighten finger-tight, then
unthread one turn as a preliminary adjustment
setting.
C a u t i o n : Do not force idle mixture adjustment
needles against seats or damage may result.
b. Invert fuel bowl body and place new throttle
body gasket on bowl. Fasten throttle body to bowl
body with three screws and lockwashers; tighten
securely.
E - 3 8 . Fuel Bowl Body Assembly
a . Drop steel discharge check tall of accelerator
pump into discharge hole. Install pump discharge
spring and T-shaped retainer. Stake retainer in
place.
N o t e : Top of retainer must be flush with flat
surface of fuel bowl body.
b. Install two inserts in main well. Align surface
on lip of insert with flat surface in recess on top
of main well. Install venturi cluster with gasket,
and tighten mounting screws evenly and securely.
Be certain that center screw is fitted with fiber
gasket, and that a special smooth shank screw is
used.
E
c. Install two main metering jets, power valve
gasket and power valve.
d . Install small aluminum inlet check ball in accelerator pump inlet at bottom of pump well. Insert pump return spring into well, and center by
pressing spring downward with finger.
e. Install pump inlet screen in bottom of fuel
bowl.
E-39.
A i r Horn Body Assembly
a . Install choke lever and collar on choke shaft.
Prong on choke lever must face away from air
horn body and be on top of choke trip lever.
b. Install choke shaft and lever assembly into the
air horn. Choke rod hole in the choke lever must
face fuel inlet side of carburetor.
c. Install choke valve plate in choke shaft so that
letters R P will face upward in finished carburetor.
Install two new valve plate attaching screws, but
do not tighten securely until valve plate is centered.
To center choke valve plate on choke shaft, hold
choke valve tightly closed, then slide choke shaft
inward to obtain approximately .020" [0,508 mm.]
clearance between choke trip lever and choke lever
and collar assembly. Tighten choke valve screws
securely, and stake lightly in place. Choke valve
will be perfectly free in all positions when installed
correctly.
d . Insert outer accelerator pump lever and shaft assembly into air horn body, with lever pointing toward choke shaft. Install inner pump arm, with
plunger hole inward, and tighten set screw securely.
Position pump plunger assembly on inner pump
arm, with pump shaft pointing inward, and install
retainer.
e. Install needle seat screen on inlet valve seat. Install seat and gasket in air horn body. Tighten seat
securely with a wide-blade screwdriver.
f. Install power piston into vacuum cavity. Lightly
stake piston retainer washer in place. Piston should
travel freely in cavity.
g. Install air horn gasket on air horn body, fitting
gasket over guide pin.
h. Attach inlet valve needle to float. Carefully
position float and insert float hinge pin. Drop tang
at rear of float arm downward toward air horn.
i. Install fuel inlet fitting, if removed.
j . With air horn assembly inverted, measure the
distance from the air horn gasket to top of float
at toe \%£ [27,78 mm.] for standard carburetors
and \%i [29,36 mm.] for exhaust emission control
equipped carburetors, as shown in Fig. E-23. Use
float level gauge J-5127-2. Bend float arm as required to adjust float level.
k. With air horn body held upright, measure distance from gasket to bottom of float pontoon at
outer end. Use a l /s" [47,625 mm.] float drop
gauge. Bend float tang, as required, to adjust float
drop. See Fig. E-24.
I. Carefully place air horn body on fuel bowl
body, making certain that the accelerator pump
plunger is properly positioned in the pump well.
Lower the cover gently, straight down; install air
f
7
123
FUEL SYSTEM
1-5/32
133S2
F I G . E-23—FLOAT L E V E L
l—Float
Arm
ADJUSTMENT
2—Float Scam
horn to fuel bowl with attaching screws. Tighten
screws evenly and securely.
Note: Longest air horn attaching screw goes in top
of pump housing.
m . Install choke rod into choke lever and fast-idle
cam. Install fast-idle cam screw and tighten securely. See Fig. E-25 for proper installation,
n. Insert accelerator pump rod through outer hole
and into throttle lever; fasten with retainer.
] 13354
FIG. E-25—CHOKE L I N K A G E — I N S T A L L E D VIEW
1— Choke Lever
2—Trip Lever
3— Choke Rod
4— Throttle Stop Screw
5— Pump Rod
A33S3
FIG. E-24—FLOAT DROP
1—Float Tang
2—Float Drop Gauge
3—Float
E-40. External Carburetor A d j u s t m e n t
All adjustments on the carburetor, except for float
adjustments, are made externally. For float level
and drop adjustments, see steps j and k of Par.
E-38, above.
E-41. Accelerator P u m p A d j u s t m e n t
Unthread curb-idle speed adjustment screw and
completely close throttle valves in bore. Place
pump gauge across top of carburetor air horn ring,
as shown, with 15^" [29,369 mm.] leg of gauge
pointing downwards, towards top of pump rod.
Lower edge of gauge leg should just touch the top
of the pump rod. Bend the pump rod, as required,
to obtain the proper setting. See Fig. E-26.
124
13355
ADJUSTMENT
FIG. E-26—ACCELERATOR PUMP
ADJUSTMENT
1—Pump Gauge
2—Pump Rod
3—Throttle Shaft — Closed Position
E-42. C u r b Idle Speed and Mixture
Adjustments
Adjust curb idle speed adjustment screw to obtain
engine idle speed as specified in Par. E-79. See Fig.
E-15.
When engine is at normal operating temperatures,
adjust idle mixture needle screws to obtain smoothest engine idle; readjust idle speed if necessary.
Note: Engine run on or "dieseling" is a condition
in which combustion continues to take place after
the normal ignition spark from the distributor has
been shut off by turning off the ignition switch. I t
E
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
is generally caused by excessive engine idle speed
in combination with retarded ignition timing,
engine heat soak or the use cf low octane fuel.
Should engine dieseling (engine running after
ignition key is turned off) be experienced on V-6
engine equipped vehicles, installation of Idle Stop
Valve K i t Part No. 991722 will correct the
difficulty.
E-43. Fast Idle Adjustment
No fast idle speed adjustment is required. Fast
idle is controlled by the curb idle speed adjustment
screw. If curb idle speed is correctly set and the
choke rod is properly adjusted, fast idle speed will
be correct;
E-44. Dash Pot Adjustment —
F4 and V-6 Engine
• Refer to Figs. E-27 and E-28.
Before adjusting the dash pot, the engine idle speed
and mixture should be correctly adjusted. With the
engine idling at normal operating temperature,
adjust the dash pot as follows:
The dash pot adjustment is made with the throttle
set at curb idle (not fast idle). Loosen dash pot lock
nut and turn the dash pot assembly until dash pot
plunger contacts the throttle lever without the
plunger being depressed. Then turn the dash pot
assembly 2 t u r n s against the throttle lever, depressing the dash pot plunger. Tighten the lock nut
securely. As a final check, open carburetor and
allow throttle to snap closed. Time dash pot delaying action from the point where the throttle lever
hits the dash pot to the point where the lever stops
moving. The dash pot should delay or cushion
closing action for two seconds by saying, "One
thousand and one, one thousand and two."
14204
FIG.
E-27—DASH POT A D J U S T M E N T — V 6
1— Throttle Lever
2— Plunger
ENGINE
3—Dash Pot
4—Lock Nut
E-45. F U E L P U M P ( D O U B L E - A C T I O N ) —
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
• Early Models
The double-action fuel pump consists of a metal
body, a rubber diaphragm, rocker arm, valves,
F I G . E-28—DASH POT A D J U S T M E N T — F 4
1— Throttle Lever
2— Plunger
ENGINE
3—Dash Pot
4—Lock Nut
springs, gaskets, and a glass sediment bowl complete
with strainer. The metal pump body provides a working housing for the diaphragm, lever, valves, and
springs. The fuel pump is mounted on the left side
of the engine and is actuated by an eccentric on the
camshaft. An air dome is cast into the metal cover
to relieve the carburetor needle valve and the fuel
pump diaphragm of excessive pressure when the
carburetor needle valve is closed.
Tracing pump operation from the beginning, the
camshaft eccentric forces the diaphragm up, overcoming spring pressure. This action creates a partial
vacuum in the pump chamber. Fuel from the main
tank is forced into the low-pressure pump chamber
through the open disc valve. Incoming fuel supplies
the force necessary to open the valve, which is
a one-way check valve. As the engine camshaft
continues to rotate, spring pressure forces the
diaphragm downward as the pump rocker arm
follows the camshaft eccentric to its low spot.
The downward action of the diaphragm closes
the intake valve and forces fuel to the carburetor
reservoir through the pump outlet valve. Both
intake and outlet valves are one-way check valves
opened and closed by fuel flow. No mechanical
components are required in the control of valve
operation.
Fuel is delivered to the carburetor only when the
float needle is off its seat. When the fuel level in
the carburetor bowl is high enough for the float to
force the needle against its seat, pressure backs up
to the fuel pump air dome and causes the diaphragm
to stop pumping. In this position, the pump is said
to be balanced because the pressure in the pumpto-carburetor line equals that of the diaphragm
spring. I n this way, fuel from the pump to the
carburetor is always under pressure. The carburetor
uses fuel, causing the float to drop and pull the
carburetor needle valve off its seat. Pressure in the
pump immediately drops as fuel is delivered to the
carburetor reservoir. Almost instantaneously the
diaphragm again starts operating to pump more
125
FUEL SYSTEM
|
FIG. E-29—FUEL AND VACUUM PUMP—F4 ENGINE, E A R L Y
1— Cover Screw
2— Lockwasher
3— Diaphragm Spring
4— Spring Seat
5— Diaphragm and Rod
6—Oil Seal
7— Valve Assembly
8— Body
9— Rocker Arm Pin Spring
10— Fuel Diaphragm
11—Oil Seal Retainer
12— Diaphragm and Rod
fuel. The diaphragm can start and stop many times
in each mile of vehicle operation, but the pump
actuating lihkage is always in operation while the
engine is running. The fuel pump incorporates a
pulsator and pulsator chamber to dampen the effect
of pump pressure pulsations on the carburetor
needle valve. This prevents high fuel level in the
reservoir that would result from the needle being
jarred away from its seat. Also, operating economy
would be affected because a high fuel level usually
results in an over-rich mixture.
The actuating linkage has its own spring to ensure
continuous contact of the lever to the camshaft
eccentric.
This fuel pump has a sediment bowl and filtering
screen which is attached to the top of the pump by
a wire clamp and thumb nut. The screen and sediment bowl should be cleaned at least twice yearly
to prevent trouble due to a blocked screen or water
freezing. The bowl should be washed and wiped
dry and the screen dried and then cleaned with a
stiff brush. When reassembling the bowl make certain that the cork gasket is not broken; reverse it
126
13— Valve Retainer
14— Cover
15—Gasket
16—Screen
17— Bow!
18— Bail
11893
MODELS
19— Gasket
20— Screw
21— Rocker Arm Spring
22— Link Spacer
23— Rocker Arm
24— Washer
25— Body
and position it flat on the seat, then install the
bowl and tighten the thumb nut securely. After
cleaning, start the engine and carefully inspect the
bowl for leakage.
E-46. Disassembly
Remove the cover plate, gasket, and screen or
bowl clamp, sediment bowl, gasket and screen if
so equipped. Mark the two castings with a file to
ensure positioning in the same relation upon
assembly. Remove the screws attaching the fuel
cover to the pump body. Remove the cover,
diaphragm, and spring. Remove rocker arm pin,
rocker arm, and rocker arm spring. Remove the
valve plate screw and separate the valve plate
retainer, valve gaskets, and valves.
Clean all parts in cleaning solvent and blow out
with compressed air. Valves should not be removed
from the valve housing assembly. Check all parts
to see that they have not been cracked or broken
and that screw threads have not been stripped or
cross threaded. Refer to Par. E-49 for fuel pump
testing.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
E-47. Reassembly
• Refer to Fig. E-29.
Install the valve gaskets, valves, valve retainer and
secure them with the valve retainer screws. Make
sure that the inlet and outlet valves are in their
proper positions. Place the diaphragm spring retainer in position on the diaphragm pull rod
and install diaphragm spring. Position the diaphragm assembly in pump body and attach the
cover to pump body, with file marks aligned, with
the six attaching screws. Do not draw the screws
up tight. Install rocker arm spring, rocker arm
pin washers, rocker arm and rocker arm pin. With
rocker arm positioned on the diaphragm rod, draw
the six pump body screws up evenly and securely.
Install the filter screen, cork gasket and sediment
bowl and secure them firmly with the thumb screw
on the bowl clamp.
E-48. V a c u u m P u m p
The double-action fuel pump resembles two singleaction pumps placed one above the other. A single
fuel pump rocker arm actuates the two separate
diaphragms. One diaphragm is part of the fuel
delivery pump and operates as described in Par.
E-45. The other diaphragm is part of the vacuum
pump and operates as described here.
As the actuating lever forces the diaphragm upward
against spring pressure, air is forced through the
outlet port into the engine's intake manifold. On
the return stroke, spring pressure forces the diaphragm downward, creating a partial vacuum and
opening the inlet valve. I n this manner, air is
pumped out of the windshield wiper motor and into
the intake manifold. When the wiper motor is shut
off, manifold vacuum holds the diaphragm against
its spring so that the full motion of the actuating
lever is not accompanied by a complete up-anddown motion of the diaphragm.
When the windshield wiper motor is turned on, but
manifold vacuum is greater than the vacuum
created by the booster pump, air flows from the
wiper motor through both valves of the vacuum
booster. As manifold vacuum drops off as a result
of the engine operating under low speed and high
load, the vacuum created by the vacuum booster
will be greater than engine intake manifold vacuum
and the pump will operate the wiper motor when
the wiper control switch is turned on.
• Refer to Fig. E-29.
Remove the eight cover attaching screws and
lockwashers, and remove the cover, diaphragm
spring and spring seat. Detach the diaphragm rod
from the rocker arm and remove the diaphragm.
The valve assemblies are pressed into the cover
and body and lightly staked. They may be removed
with the point of a knife blade. If installing new
valves be sure the inlet and outlet valves are
correctly positioned and stake them lightly with
a small punch.
Assemble the vacuum pump in the reverse order
of disassembly, drawing the cover attaching screws
up evenly and tightly.
E-49. F u e l P u m p T e s t i n g
Four tests are presented in following paragraphs to
E
test for proper operation of the fuel pump. In addition, check the following:
a . Check for secure mounting of the fuel pump.
The rocker arm may be working the entire pump
up and down, rather than just the pump diaphragms.
b. Remove and clean the fuel sediment bowl.
c. Check all fuel lines.
E-50. V o l u m e C h e c k
To measure fuel pump capacity (amount of fuel
delivered in a given time) disconnect the pump-tocarburetor line at the carburetor end. Place the
open end of the line in a suitable container. Start
the engine and operate at normal idle speed.
Delivery should be one quart U.S. [1 ltr.] within
one minute.
E-51. Pressure Check
To measure fuel pump pressure (force of fuel delivery) disconnect the pump-to-carburetor line
at the carburetor end. Plug a pressure gauge and
T-fitting into the open end of this line and into the
carburetor. Start the engine and operate at normal
idle speed. Pressure should be 2J4 to 3% psi.
[0,716 a 0,264 kg-cm ] at 1800 rpm. and at 16"
[406 mm.] above the outlet.
2
E-52. V a c u u m C h e c k
To measure fuel pump vacuum (pull of. the pump
at the inlet side) disconnect the pump-to-fuel-tank
line at the fuel pump. Attach a vacuum gauge to
the fuel pump inlet. Start the engine, accelerate to
specified speed, and hold this engine speed while
taking a gauge reading. Permissible gauge reading
is 8* [203 mm.] of mercury [Hg] at 1200 rpm. and
10j^' [267 mm.] at 1800 rpm.
E-53. V a c u u m Booster C h e c k
To test the condition of the vacuum booster pump,
disconnect both inlet and outlet lines at the pump.
Attach a vacuum gauge to the windshield wiper
connection at the pump. Start the engine, accelerate
to 2000 rpm., and hold this engine speed while
taking a gauge reading. Permissible gauge reading
is 10* to 14" [254 a 356 cm.] of mercury [Hg].
E-54.' F U E L P U M P ( S I N G L E - A C T I O N ) —
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
• Early Models.
Vehicles with electric windshield wiper motors are
equipped with a single-action fuel pump (Fig.
E-30). The fuel pump cam lever is activated by an
eccentric on the engine camshaft. When the carburetor float needle valve closes, accumulation of
fuel in the pump extends the diaphragm spring.
This action causes the rocker arm linkage to become inoperative until the pressure on the diaphragm and spring is reduced. The fuel pump discharge pressure is thus controlled by the diaphragm
spring. This provides a steady supply of fuel to the
carburetor at a fairly constant pressure.
127
E
E-55.
FUEL SYSTEM
Fuel P u m p Removal
To remove the fuel pump from the engine, disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel lines. Remove
the two fuel pump body attaching nuts, lock
washers, and washers, and pull the fuel pump and
gasket free of the engine.
E-56.
Fuel P u m p Disassembly
Note: The fuel pump is serviced with a repair kit.
Individual service parts are also available. The
valves are not replaceable but are serviced as part
of the valve housing.
a . Before disassembly of the fuel pump, mark the
three castings (see Fig. E-30) to ensure positioning
in the same relation upon assembly.
b. Remove the inlet and outlet fuel fittings from
the pump.
c. Remove the screws and washers and separate
the housing from the pump body.
d. Remove cover screws and lock washers and
then remove housing cover, dome diaphragm and
strainer.
e. Remove cam lever return spring and lever seal
shaft plug.
f. Remove retainer pin, cam lever pin and cam
lever.
g. Remove main diaphragm.
N o t e : Do not remove valves from housing as they
are serviced with the housing.
N o t e : The oil seal (at top of spring in diaphragm
assembly) seals the spring side of the fuel diaphragm from the crankcase. Any deposit, in excess
of a few drops, of oil on the diaphragm, indicates
leakage past the oil seal. Be sure the seat for the
seal in the pump body is clean and smooth.
E-57.
Fuel P u m p Cleaning a n d Inspection
C a u t i o n : Do not immerse valves or diaphragm in
-cleaning solvent; wipe clean.
Clean all metal parts of the fuel pump in solvent.
Brush with a stiff-bristled brush. Dry with compressed air. Check all parts to see that they are not
cracked or broken and that the screw threads are
not damaged.
E-58.
F I G . E-30 — F U E L P U M P — H U R R I C A N E
F4 E N G I N E , E A R L Y M O D E L S
1— Housing Cover
2— Air Dome Diaphragm
3— Strainer
4— Screw and Washer
5— Housing
6— Cover Screw and Lock Washers
7— Main Diaphragm
8— Pump Body
9— Cam Lever Return Spring
10— Pin Retainer
11— Cam Lever
12— Cam Lever P i n
13— Lever Seal Shaft Plug
128
Fuel P u m p Reassembly
a . Position the new main diaphragm on pump body
and hold it in position while installing cam lever
in position.
b. Install cam lever pin, pin retainer and lever
seal shaft plug.
c. Install cam lever return spring.
d. Position strainer, air dome diaphragm and housing cover on housing and secure with screw and
lock washers.
e. Position housing on pump body and secure with
screw and washers. First start all screws one or
two turns: Then tighten the screws alternately and
securely.
N o t e : Before placing housing on pump body note
position of align marks made before disassembly.
f. Install the fuel inlet and outlet fittings.
N o t e : Lubricate forked end of cam lever and cam
lever pin.
C a u t i o n : Do not overtighten screw.
9
'Jeep U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
E-59. Fuel P u m p Installation
a. Make certain mating surfaces of fuel pump and
engine cylinder case are clean. Cement a new gasket
to mounting flange of fuel pump.
b. Position fuel pump on cylinder block, so that
cam lever of pump rests on fuel pump cam of camshaft. Secure pump to block with two cap screws
and lock washers.
c. Connect intake and outlet fuel lines to fuel
pump.
E-60. F U E L P U M P ( S I N G L E - A C T I O N ) —
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
• Late Models.
The Hurricane F4 engine is equipped with a singleaction fuel pump (Fig. E-31). The fuel pump cam
lever is activated by an eccentric on the engine
camshaft. When the carburetor float needle valve
closes, accumulation of fuel in the pump extends
the diaphragm spring. This action causes the rocker
arm linkage to become inoperative until the pressure on the diaphragm and spring is reduced. The
fuel pump discharge pressure is thus controlled by
the diaphragm spring. This provides a steady supply of fuel to the carburetor at a fairly constant
pressure.
washers, and washers, and pull the fuel pump and
gasket free of the engine.
E - 6 2 . Fuel P u m p Disassembly
Note: The fuel pump is serviced with a repair kit.
Individual service parts are also available. The
valves are not replaceable but are serviced as part
of the valve housing.
• Refer to Fig. E-32.
a. Remove filter bail assembly, bowl, element,
spring, and gasket from filter cover.
b. File a locating mark on the edges of the valve
housing and the pump body. Remove the six at-
E-61. Fuel Pump Removal
To remove the fuel pump from the engine, disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel lines. Remove
the two fuel pump body attaching nuts, lock
14280
FIG. E-32—FUEL PUMp—
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E , L A T E M O D E L S
12988
FIG. E-31—FUEL . P U M P H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E , L A T E M O D E L S
1— Bail
2—Bowl
3— Spring
4— Filter
5—Gasket
6—Pump Body
7—Gasket
8— Valve Assembly
9—Screws
10—Valve Housing
11—Valve Assembly
12— Screws
13— Diaphragm and Oil Seal
14—Pump Body
15— Cam Lever Spring
16— Cam Lever
17— Gasket
18— Cam Lever Pin and Plug
129
E
FUEL
taching screws and valve housing from the fuel
pump body.
c. Remove the two screws in the valve housing
and separate the filter cover and air dome diaphragm.
d. Remove the cam lever return spring, plug,
cam lever pin, and cam lever from the pump body.
Tap the cam lever pin out of body, using a drift
inserted through the small hole in the pump body.
e. Remove diaphragm from pump body.
f. Under normal service, the pump may be cleaned
without further disassembly.
Note: The oil seal (at top of spring in diaphragm
assembly) seals the spring side of the fuel diaphragm from the crankcase. Any deposit, in excess
of a few drops, of oil on the diaphragm indicates
leakage past the oil seal. Be sure the seat for the
seal in the pump body is clean and smooth.
E-63.
Fuel P u m p Cleaning and Inspection
C a u t i o n : Do not immerse valves or diaphragm
in cleaning solvent; wipe clean.
Clean all metal parts of the fuel pump in solvent.
Brush with a stiff-bristled brush. Dry with compressed air. Check all parts to see that they are not
cracked or broken and that the screw threads are
not damaged.
E-64. Fuel P u m p Reassembly
• Refer to Fig. E-32.
a. Assemble the valve housing and filter cover,
using a new air dome diaphragm. The opening
in the air dome diaphragm is located over the
intake valve. The filter cover is positioned correctly when the inlet passage in the cover aligns
with the inlet valve. Tighten the attaching screws
alternately and securely.
b. Lubricate diaphragm assembly shaft, around
oil seal, with engine oil. Position diaphragm assembly on valve housing and thread all the attaching screws through diaphragm. (This helps avoid
damage to the screw holes in diaphragm.)
c. Place diaphragm assembly and valve housing
in position on pump body (align marks made
before disassembly). First start all screws one
or two threads; then tighten the screws alternately
and securely.
d. Lubricate forked end of cam lever, pin bore
of body, and corresponding hole in lever, and the
pin itself with engine oil.
SYSTEM
Place bail assembly in ears on cover and swing
to one side. Install spring and new filter element in
bowl and install bowl on pump. Position bail assembly under bowl; tighten retainer screw.
C a u t i o n : Do not overtighten screw.
E-65. Fuel P u m p Installation
a. Make certain mating surfaces of fuel pump and
engine cylinder case are clean. Cement a new gasket
to mounting flange of fuel pump.
b. Position fuel pump on cylinder block, so that
cam lever of pump rests on fuel pump cam of camshaft. Secure pump to block with two cap screws
and lock washers. Torque bolts 13 to 17 lb-ft. [1,8
a 2,3 kg-m.].
c. Connect intake and outlet fuel lines to fuel
pump.
E-66. Fuel P u m p Testing
Whenever the fuel pump is to be checked for pressure or volume, follow the procedure outline in
Par. C-23 of this manual. Fuel pump pressure is
important for low pressure will seriously affect engine operation and high pressure can cause excessive fuel consumption and flooding of the carburetor. Should there be any doubt of normal operation, check the procedure as outlined in Par. C-23.
In addition to proper fuel pressure, volume of the
pump is also important. When testing for proper
pump pressure, be certain to also test for volume
as the pump may build up sufficient pressure, but
fail to produce sufficient volume.
E-67.
F U E L PUMP — D A U N T L E S S
V-6 E N G I N E
Jeep vehicles equipped with the Dauntless V6-225
engine have a special fuel pump which has a
metering outlet for a vapor return system. Any
vapor which forms is returned to the fuel tank
along with hot fuel through a separate line alongside the fuel supply line. This greatly reduces any
Note: Forked end of lever goes around diaphragm
shaft. Be sure loose bumper washer on diaphragm
shaft is on top of lever and between lever and
fixed washer on shaft.
e. Install lever and pin. To install pin, use a drift
and tap pin into the hole in the body until it hits
the stop on the bottom of the hole; move the lever
while tapping, to align hole in lever with the pin;
then install plug. Install lever return spring.
f. Install a new filter bowl gasket in filter cover.
130
FIG.
E-33—FUEL PUMP—DAUNTLESS
1 —Fuel Outlet
2—Vapor Return
V-6
ENGINE
3—Fuel Inlet
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L
E
SERIES S E R V I C E MANUAL
possibility of vapor lock by keeping cool fuel from
the tank constantly circulating through the fuel
pump.
Fuel pump pressure at carburetor (inlet) on Dauntless V6-225 engine should be 3% lbs. [0,264 kgmcm ] minimum at idle with the vapor return hose
squeezed off. With the vapor return hose open
pump pressure should be 2 j ^ lbs. [0,176 kg-cm ]
minimum.
The Dauntless V-6 engine is equipped with a sealed
unit, non-repairable, single-action fuel pump (Fig.
E-33).
2
2
Note: All Dauntless V-6 engines are equipped with
a throw-away can-type gasoline filter installed in
the fuel line between the fuel pump and the carburetor. This unit must be replaced every 12,000
miles [19.200 km.] of vehicle operation.
E-68. Fuel Pump Removal
To remove the fuel pump from the Dauntless V-6
engine, disconnect the fuel inlet, fuel outlet and
fuel return lines from the pump. Remove the two
fuel pump body attaching cap screws and lock
washers. Pull the fuel filter bracket free and remove
the pump and gasket. Discard pump and gasket.
Install new pump in reverse procedure of removal.
E-69. A I R C L E A N E R
Servicing of the air cleaner is properly taken care
of as part of the periodic lubrication and servicing
of the vehicle. For this reason, air cleaner servicing
information is given in the Lubrication Section.
Refer to and follow the instructions given there.
E-70. A C C E L E R A T O R L I N K A G E
The accelerator linkage is properly adjusted when
the vehicle leaves the factory. However, in time
components parts will become worn and require readjustment to maintain a smooth even control of
engine speed. On Models equipped with F 4 engines
the adjustment is made at the adjusting block,
Fig. E-34. Loosen the lock nuts, and adjust the
length of the accelerator rod so that when the carburetor throttle valve is wide open the accelerator
treadle will just strike the toe board. After correct
adjustment is made tighten both lock nuts firmly.
To adjust the accelerator linkage on V6 engines
loosen the lock nuts securing the accelerator rod
housing to its securing bracket and adjust the length
of the accelerator rod so that when the carburetor
throttle valve is wide open the accelerator treadle
will just strike the toe board. After correct adjustment is made, tighten lock nut firmly, see Fig. E-35
for Dauntless V-6 engine.
E-71. F U E L T A N K A N D F U E L L I N E S
The following paragraphs (E-70 through E-73)
describe the removal, installation and services to
be performed when replacing the fuel tank or
servicing the fuel system.
FIG. E-34—ACCELERATOR
L I N K A G E , F4 E N G I N E
1— Grommet
2—Nut and Lockwasher
3— Throttle Control
4— Choke Control
5—Treadle Rod Seal
6— Accelerator Treadle
7—Treadle Hinge Pin
8—Treadle Hinge
9—Nut and Lockwasher
10—Screw
11—Accelerator R o d
12—Nut
13—Adjusting Block
14— Retracting Spring
15—Cotter Pin
16—Lower Beilcrank
17—Washer
18— Beilcrank Link Rod
19—Bracket
20—Throttle Wire Stop
21—Beilcrank Spring
22— Rod
23—Upper Beilcrank
24—Wesher
10731
131
FUEL
SYSTEM
14417
FIG. E-35—ACCELERATOR LINKAGE—V-6 ENGINE
1—Lever Assembly
5—Accelerator Mounting Bracket
2— Choke Rod
3—-Accelerator Rod (Upper)
4—Choke Control Cable
E-72. Fuel T a n k
The fuel tank on early model 'Jeep* Universal
vehicles has a capacity of 10}4 gals. [38,75 ltr.] and
is mounted under the driver's seat. The tank is
secured to the front floor panel by a hold down
strap and two bolts.
The fuel tank on all late model 'Jeep* vehicles has a
capacity of 16 gal. [60,56 ltr.] and is mounted to
three frame rail brackets at the rear and center of
the frame. The tank is secured to the brackets by
three bolts and six rubber shock insulators. A fuel
tank skid plate is attached to the rear frame crossmember to protect the bottom of the tank from
damage.
E-73. F u e l T a n k R e m o v a l
When removing the fuel tank on early model
vehicles, first drain the tank of all fuel. Remove the
driver's seat, then remove the tank hold down
straps. Disconnect fuel line(s) and sending unit
132
6—-Accelerator Boot
7— Accelerator Rod (Lower)
8—Accelerator Treadle
wire from the tank. Remove the filler neck rubber
grommet and remove the tank assembly from the
vehicle.
When removing the fuel tank, on late model
vehicles first drain the tank of all fuel, then remove
the fuel tank skid plate. Loosen the filler neck and
vent tube hose clamp and disconnect hoses from
fuel tank. Remove the three mounting bolts and six
washers and rubber insulators that secure the tank
to the frame brackets. Loosen frame brackets to
give clearance for tank removal. Lower tank
slightly allowing space for disconnecting fuel and
vent lines and sending unit wire from tank. Lower
tank and remove from underside of vehicle.
E-74. F u e l T a n k I n s t a l l a t i o n
N o t e : On vehicles equipped with the Dauntless
V-6 engine two luel lines are connected to the fuel
tank; a fuel out line and a fuel return line. It is im-
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
E
portant that these lines are not accidentally reversed.
type of cap is to be used on vehicles having this
type system.
When installing the fuel tank on late model
vehicles, position the tank between the frame rail
to allow space to connect the fuel line(s), vent hose
and sending unit wire. After connecting these
items, align and secure tank to frame brackets.
Position filler hose on tank filler neck and tighten
hose clamp. Fill tank with fuel and check for leaks.
When installing the fuel tank on early model
vehicles, reverse the order of removal as given in
Par. E-73.
E-76. Fuel Gauge Float Unit
The fuel tank gauge float unit is mounted in the top
of the fuel tank and consists of a housing enclosing
a rheostat that is actuated by the float arm, and a
float which moves with the fuel level in the tank.
On V-6 and current production F 4 engine equipped
vehicles, the fuel outlet pipe is integral with the
float unit. The fuel outlet pipe has a mesh filter on
the inner end.
E-75. Fuel T a n k C a p
A surge pressure type fuel tank filler cap is used on
all models. This is necessary to prevent fuel leakage
from the cap vent opening when the vehicle is on a
side slope. Two spring loaded relief valves which
open when venting is required are built into the
cap. Should the pressure valve fail to open, pressure
in the tank may force fuel by the carburetor inlet
valve causing flooding. Failure of the vacuum valve
may prevent flow of fuel to the carburetor. Should
the valves fail to vent install a new cap.
Note: Vehicles having a Fuel Evaporative Emission System are equipped with a non-vent sealed
gas cap. The sealed cap is designed to allow no
vapors to discharge to the atmosphere. No other
Note: Under no circumstances should a fuel tank
gauge be installed without a mesh filter element.
The filter, outlet pipe, and float unit are locked as
an assembly to the top of the fuel tank. To remove,
turn the lock plate that secures the float unit
assembly.
E-77. Fuel Lines
Check lines and connections occasionally for leaks,
and for severe kinks that might restrict the flow of
fuel. I f an excessive amount of dirt is found in the
carburetor or fuel pump, the fuel tank should be
drained and the fuel lines blown out with compressed air.
All rubber fuel lines and their respective clamps
should be checked occasionally to be certain they
are correctly positioned and not leaking.
133
E
FUEL SYSTEM
E-78. SERVICE DIHGNOSIS
Symptoms
Probable Remedy
Excessive Fuel Consumption:
Tires improperly inflated
Brakes drag
Engine operates too cold
Heat control valve inoperative
Leak in fuel line
Carburetor float level high.
Accelerator pump not properly adjusted
Leaky fuel pump diaphragm
Loose engine mountings causing high carburetor fuel level
Ignition timing slow or spark advance stuck
Low compression.
Air cleaner dirty
Inflate
Adjust
Check thermostat
Check thermostatic spring
Check all connections
See "Carburetor" section
Adjust
Replace
Tighten
See "Distributor" section
Check valve tappet clearance
. Remove and clean
Engine Hesitates on Acceleration:
Accelerator pump does not function perfectly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carburetor float level.
...
Spark plugs
Low compression
Distributor points—dirty or pitted
Weak condenser or coil
Carburetor jets restricted
Excessive engine heat
.Replace piston and rod or adjust
.Adjust
Replace or clean and adjust
Check valves
Replace
Replace
Remove and clean
See "Engine" section
Engine Stalls—Won't Idle:
Improper condition of carburetor
Low speed jet restricted
Dirty fuel sediment bowl screen
Air cleaner dirty
Leaky manifold or gasket
Fuel pump diaphragm porous.
Loose carburetor.
Water in fuel
Improper ignition.
Spark plugs
Valves sticking.
134
See "Carburetor" section
Remove and clean
Remove and clean
Remove and clean
Replace
Replace
Tighten flange nuts
Drain and clean system
.See "Distributor" section
Clean and adjust
Grind valves
E
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
E-79. F U E L S Y S T E M SPECIFICHTIONS
CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS
H U R R I C A N E F4 (See Note)
Make
Model.
Throttle Bore
Main Venturi.
Low Speed Jet
Main Metering Jet
Idle Port
Nozzle Bleed I n Body
Pump Jet
Float Setting
Engine Idle R P M
Dash Pot Setting
.
......
Without Exhaust Emission Control
Carter
YF-938SD
lY
[3,81 cm.]
1M" [3,18 cm.]
.028" [0,711 mm.]
.0935" dia. [2,375 mm.]
.184" x .030" [4,70 a 0,765 mm.]
.0225 "[0,571 mm.]
.031" [0,787 mm.]
Vk" [7,39 mm.]
600
n
2
CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS
H U R R I C A N E F 4 (See Note).
Make
Model
Throttle Bore
Main Venturi
Low Speed Jet
Main Metering Jet
Idle Port
Nozzle Bleed I n Body
Pump Jet.
Float Setting
Engine Idle R P M
Dash Pot Setting
CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS
D A U N T L E S S V-6 (See Note)
Make
Model Designation
Code Number
Choke
Number of Barrels
Throttle Bore
Main Metering Jet:
Production
..
High Altitude — over 5000 ft
— over 10,000 ft... .
Float Level Adjustment*
Float Drop Adjustment
Pump R o d Adjustment**
Engine Idle R P M
Initial Idle Speed Setting
Initial Idle Mixture Setting.
Dash Pot Setting
Without Exhaust Emission Control
Carter
YF-4002-S
\y " [3,81 cm.]
1M" [3,18 cm.]
.031" [0,794 mm.]
.091" dia. [2,311 mm.]
.184" x .030" [4,70 a 0.765 mm.]
.028" [0,713 mm.]
.025" [0,635 mm.]
W
[6,74 mm.]
650 — 700
%
l
With Exhaust Emission Control
Carter
YF-4366-S, YF-4941-S, YF-6115-S
IV " [3,81 cm.]
1M* [3,18 cm.]
.035" [0,889 mm.]
.089" dia. [2,261 mm.]
.184" x .030" [4,70 a 0.765 mm.]
.028" [0,713 mm.]
.024" [0,609 mm.]
W [6,74 mm.]
700 - 750
Y " ]3,75 mm.]
2
1
%
Without Exhaust Emission Control
Rochester
2G
7026082
Manual
2
Wy? [3,65 cm.]
.051" - 60° [1,29 mm.]
.049" - 60° [1,24 mm.]
.047" - 60° [1,29 mm.]
Hit" [27,78 mm.]
V/ " [4,76 cm.]
IH2" J2.94 cm.]
650 -— 700
3 turns in
2 turns out
W [3,75 mm.]
%
With Exhaust Emission Control
Rochester
2G
7027082-7041185
Manual
2
[3,65 cm.]
.051" - 60° [1,29 mm.]
.049" - 60° [1,24 mm.]
.047" - 60° (1,29 mm.]
l% " [29,36 mm.]
V/£" [4,76 cm.]
\W ]2,94 cm.[
650 — 700
3 turns in
2 turns out
[3,75 mm.]
2
*From air horn gasket to top of float at toe.
**From air cleaner ring to top of pump rod.
N O T E : Carburetor specifications for engines equipped with exhaust emission control are also shown in section F l for
the F4-134 Hurricane engine, and in section F 2 for the V6-225 Dauntless engine.
135
E
FUEL SYSTEM
E-79. F U E L S Y S T E M SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)
MODEL
AIR CLEANER:
Type
FUEL
AIR CLEANER:
Type...
F U E L TANK:
Capacity
F U E L PUMP:
Make.
Model. .
Type
136
Oil B a t h
1 0 H gal. [39,75 ltr.]
Under Driver's Seat
10 A gal. [39,75 ltr.]
Under Driver's Seat
AC
or Carter
5594032
21955
Diaphragm, serviceable unit
A.C.
6440515
Disposable unit
T a n k unit only
Left side of engine, plus tank unit
LATE MODEL
H U R R I C A N E F4
LATE MODEL
D A U N T L E S S V-6
Oil B a t h
Dry Type
16 gal. [60,57 ltr.]
Between frame rails, rear of vehicle
16 gal. [60,57 ltr.]
Between frame rails, rear of vehicle
Carter
4574-S
Diaphragm, serviceable unit
A.C.
6440515
Disposable unit
Left side of engine, plus tank unit
Left side of engine, plus tank unit
l
FILTER:
MODEL
FUEL
Oil B a t h
PUMP:
Model
Type..
FUEL
EARLY MODEL
D A U N T L E S S V-6
TANK:
Location
FUEL
EARLY MODEL
HURRICANE F4
FILTER:
F
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
EXHAUST S Y S T E M
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL
.F-l
Dauntless V-6 Engine Exhaust S y s t e m . . . . F-3
Hurricane F 4 Engine Exhaust S y s t e m . . . . F-2
MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS
F-4
EXHAUST SYSTEM SERVICING
F-5
F-L GENERAL
The major components of the exhaust system (Figs.
F - l , F-2 and F-3) are the exhaust manifold(s), exhaust pipe(s), muffler and tail pipe. Differences in
the exhaust system occur depending on whether
the vehicle is equipped with the Hurricane F 4 or
Dauntless V-6 engine.
Note: For service information on exhaust emission
control systems, refer to Section F l and F 2 of this
manual.
SUBJECT
Exhaust Manifold Installation.
Exhaust Pipe(s) Replacement
Heat Control Valve Replacement
Muffler Replacement
Tail Pipe Replacement
.F-6
F-8
F-7
F-9
F-10
E X H A U S T S Y S T E M S P E C I F I C A T I O N S . . F-11
F-2. Hurricane F4 Engine Exhaust System
On the Hurricane F 4 engine, the exhaust and intake manifolds are separate units. The intake manifold is cast as an integral part of the cylinder head
and is completely water jacketed. This construction
transfers heat from the cooling system to the intake riser and assists in vaporizing the fuel when
the engine is cold.
With this construction, there is no heat control
valve on the engine and the only function of the
exhaust manifold is to gather and direct the exhaust
FIG. F-l—HURRICANE F4 ENGINE E X H A U S T S Y S T E M — E A R L Y
1—Exhaust Pipe
2— Clamp
3 — Exhaust Pipe Extension
4— Clamp
5— T a i l Pipe
6— Muffler
7— Clamp
8—Support Strap
9—Bolt
10—Support Strap
PAR.
MODEL
11—Bracket
12— Insulator
13— Bracket
14—Nut and Lockwasher
15— Washer
16—Bolt
17— Gasket
18— Bolt
19— Nut
137
F
EXHAUST SYSTEM
12844
F I G . F-2—DAUNTLESS V-6 E N G I N E E X H A U S T S Y S T E M — E A R L Y M O D E L
1 —Right Exhaust Pipe
2 — T a l l Pipe
3 —Bolt
4 —Bolt
5 —Muffler
6—Exhaust Pipe Extension
7 —Crossover Exhaust Pipe
8— Bracket
9 —Lockwasher
1 0 —Nut
1 1 — Saddle
1 2 —Washer
13—Bolt
1 4 —Bracket
1 5 —Reinforcement
1 6 —Nut
1 7 —Lockwasher
1 8 —Nut
gases into the exhaust pipe.
When assembling the manifold, to the
block (Fig. F - 4 ) new gaskets should be
and the nuts drawn up evenly until they
to avoid leakage. Torque manifold nuts
lb-ft [4,0 a 4,84 kg-m.].
cylinder
installed
are tight
to 29-35
F-3. Dauntless ¥ - 6 Engine Exhaust System
Each of two cylinder banks of a Dauntless V-6
engine has an exhaust manifold. On late production
engines the right exhaust manifold is equipped
with a heat collector manifold which supplies
heated air to the air cleaner. See Fig. F-5. Each
cylinder exhausts through its own individual port
into a branch of its exhaust manifold. These
138
19—Lockwasher
20—Bolt
21—Bracket
22—Insulator
23—Nut
24—Bolt
25—Clamp
26—U-Bolt
27—Saddle
28—U-Bolt
29—Saddle
30—Insulator
31—U-Bolt
32—Nut
3 3—Lockwasher
34—U-Bolt
35—Saddle
branches conduct exhaust gases into the main manifold branch which connects the exhaust pipe to
the muffler. A thermally-actuated heat control
valve is located at the rear of the right exhaust
manifold. This valve has a bimetal thermostatic
spring which holds it closed when the engine is
cold.
In closed position, the valve deflects exhaust gases
upward through a passage in the intake manifold
to the left exhaust manifold. This aids in vaporizing
fuel, speeds engine warm-up, and reduces oil
dilution.
Since the valve plate is offset-mounted, the valve
will be forced partially open at higher engine speed
and load. This prevents excessive back pressure.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
©
1
1
IT
T"
©-
I
FIG.
F-3—EXHAUST SYSTEM — LATE
MODEL
A—Hurricane F 4 Engine
B—Dauntless V6 Engine
1— Exhaust Pipe F 4 Engine
2 — Exhaust Pipe Extension — F 4 Engine
3 — Muffler
4— Tail Pipe
5— Right Exhaust Pipe V6 Engine
6—Left Exhaust Pipe V6 Engine
7—Exhaust Pipe Clamp
8— Front and Rear Muffler Clamp
9 —Tail Pipe Clamp
As the engine increasingly warms up the thermostatic spring tension decreases until it allows the
valve to open completely. That restores usual exhaust operation.
As part of regular tune-up procedure the valve
operation should be checked. Valve plate should
move freely, without binding or excessive play.
If necessary to replace the heat control valve (Fig.
F-6), disconnect exhaust pipe from valve. Remove
two attaching bolts and valve from exhaust manifold. Fasten replacement valve to manifold with
two bolts. Torque bolts 15 to 20 lb-ft [2,1 a 2,8
kg-m.]. No gasket is required between valve and
manifold. Connect exhaust pipe to valve.
To remove the exhaust manifolds, disconnect the
heat riser tubes and the exhaust pipe or the heat
control valve from the manifold. Remove the cap
screws that secure the manifold to the cylinder
head; remove the manifold.
Install the exhaust manifold(s) and torque cap
screws 15 to 20 lb-ft. [2,07 a 2,8 kg-m.]. Refer
to Fig. Dl-42.
F-4. MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS
The exhaust system must be free of exhaust gas
leaks and vibration. The system should be checked
periodically and all loose or broken hanger supports
should be tightened or replaced. In addition, check
for dents or restrictions in the tail pipe, exhaust
pipe, or muffler as such restrictions can cause faulty
engine performance. Exhaust gas leaks in the system are dangerous as well as being noisy.
Occasionally, vibrations may be the result of misaligned hanger supports. These vibrations can be
eliminated by loosening the clamps and changing
position so that the exhaust pipe, muffler, and tail
pipe will be in proper alignment, free of contact
with the frame or body.
139
F
EXHAUST SYSTEM
FIG. F-4—EXHAUST MANIFOLDHURRICANE F4 ENGINE
1— Stud Nut
2—End Gasket
3— Stud
4— Manifold
5— Center Gasket
6— Stud
7— Gasket
J666S
F-5. EXHAUST SYSTEM SERVICING
The following paragraphs (F-6 through F-10)
describe the service that may be performed on the
exhaust system on the 'Jeep' vehicles.
F-6. Exhaust Manifold Installation
When assembling the exhaust manifold to the cylinder block on the F 4 engine, install a new gasket.
Before installing the manifold, have the mating surfaces clean and smooth. If stud threads on the Hurricane F 4 engine are damaged, correct the condition
with a thread die or replace the studs.
When installing the exhaust manifold, there should
be no bind between the manifold studs and stud
holes. Where such a condition is experienced, the
stud hole at either end of the manifold must be
enlarged only enough to relieve the binding condition.
Torque exhaust manifold attaching nuts 29 to 35
lb-ft. [4,0 a 4,8 kg-m.] on F4-134 engine, 15 to 20
lb-ft. [2,1 a 2,8 kg-m.] on V-6 engine (as described
in Par. C-5).
F-7. Heat Control Valve Replacement
Refer to Par. F-3.
14287
FIG. F-5—EXHAUST MANIFOLD L E F T S I D E V6 E N G I N E
1— Manifold
2— Manifold Heat Collector
140
FIG. F-6—HEAT CONTROL VALVE
DAUNTLESS V6 E N G I N E
1— Weight Forward — Valve Open
2 —Weight Vertical — Valve Closed
F
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
F-8. Exhaust Pipe Replacement
When replacing the exhaust pipe(s) refer to Figs.
F l , F 2 and F-3. Remove the nuts securing the exhaust pipe(s) to the exhaust manifold(s), loosen
and disconnect mounting clamp (s) as necessary,
loosen clamp securing exhaust pipe to muffler and
remove exhaust pipe(s).
Note: Always use new gasket(s) between exhaust
pipe(s) and exhaust manifold(s). After installation
of exhaust pipe(s), check the exhaust system for
alignment and leaks.
F-9. Muffler Removal and Replacement
Disconnect the support bracket and clamps on each
side of the muffler. Loosen the tail pipe support
clamp bolt and pull the tail pipe to the rear until
it is free of the muffler. Remove the muffler. To
install the muffler, reverse the above steps and
properly align the complete system, then tighten
connecting support brackets securely. Operate the
engine and check for possible leaks.
F-10. Tail Pipe Removal and Replacement
Refer to Figs. F - l , F-2 and F-3.
Disconnect the support bracket and clamps both
at the rear of the muffler and also at outlet end of
the tail pipe. Free the tail pipe from the muffler. To
assemble, position tail pipe to the muffler and
secure clamps, being careful to align the exhaust
system so it doesn't contact body or frame. Check
system for exhaust gas leaks.
F - l l . EXHAUST S Y S T E M SPECIFICATIONS
TYPE:
Muffler:
Type
Exhaust Pipe:
Wall Thickness
T a i l Pipe:
EARLY MODEL
HURRICANE F4 E N G I N E
EARLY MODEL
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
Single
Single With Cross-Over
Reverse Flow
Reverse Flow
1.625* [4,13 cm.]
.065* [1,6 ram.]
2.00* [5,08 cm.]
.065* [1,6 mm.]
1.625* [4,13 cm.]
2.00* [5,08 cm.]
Crossover Pipe
Diameter
Wall Thickness
TYPE:
Muffler:
2.00* [5,08 cm.]
.065* [1,6 mm.]
LATE MODEL
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
LATE MODEL
D A U N T L E S S V6 E N G I N E
Single
Reverse Flow
2.005* [5,09 cm.]
1.755* [4,46 cm.]
Single with Cross-Over
Reverse Flow
2.005* [5,09 cm.]
1.755* [4,46 cm.]
1.625* [4,13 cm.]
.065* [1,6 mm.]
2.00* [5,08 cm.]
.065* [1,6 mm.]
Exhaust Pipe:
Wall Thickness
Exhaust Pipe Extension:
Wall Thickness
Crossover Pipe:
1.629* [4,14 cm.]
2.00* [5,08 cm.]
.065* [1,6 mm.]
2.00* [5,08 cm.]
.065* [1,6 mm.]
Wall Thickness
T a i l Pipe
1.753* [4,45 cm.]
1.753* [4,45 cm
1
141
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Fl
EXHHUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM
Contents
H U R R I C A N E F4-134 E N G I N E
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL
Fl-1
AIR PUMP
Fl-2
PUMP AIR F I L T E R
Fl-3
AIR D E L I V E R Y MANIFOLD
Fl-4
AIR INJECTION T U B E S .
Fl-5
ANTI-BACKFIRE D I V E R T E R VALVE. .Fl-6
ENGINE COMPONENTS
Carburetor
.
Distributor
Exhaust Manifold
. .Fl-7
.Fl-8
. . . . . . . . .Fl-9
Fl-10
MAINTENANCE
Carburetor
Fl-12,
Distributor
Anti-Backfire Diverter Valve. . . . . . . . . .
Check Valve
Fl-11
Fl-13
Fl-14
.Fl-15
Fl-16
Fl-1. GENERAL—F4-134 Engine
The Hurricane F4-134 engine Exhaust Emission
Control System consists of a belt driven air pump
which directs compressed air through connecting
hoses to a steel distribution manifold into stainless
steel injection tubes in the exhaust port adjacent
to each exhaust valve stem. This air with its normal
oxygen content, reacts with the hot but incompletely burned exhaust gases and permits further
combustion in the exhaust port or manifold.
Fl-2. AIR PUMP
The air injection pump is a positive displacement
vane type which is permanently lubricated and
requires no periodic maintenance.
The pump contains an integral relief valve which
controls the air supplied to the engine exhaust ports
during high speed operation to limit maximum exhaust system temperatures.
Fl-3. PUMP AIR FILTER
The air filter attached to the pump is a replaceable
element type constructed of conventional pleated
paper with steel end plates.
The filter should be replaced every 12,000 miles
[19,200 km.] under normal conditions or sooner
under adverse weather or driving conditions.
Fl-4. AIR DELIVERY MANIFOLD
The air delivery manifold, constructed of cold
rolled steel with a zinc plating, distributes the air
from the pump to each of the air delivery tubes
in a uniform manner.
A check valve is attached to the air delivery
SUBJECT
Air Pump
Carburetor Air Cleaner
PAR.
Fl-17
Fl-18
REMOVAL PROCEDURES
Air Pump
Anti-Backfire Diverter Valve
Air Distribution Manifold,
And Air Injection Tubes
.Fl-19
Fl-20
Fl-21
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT
.Fl-23
Fl-22
REPLACEMENT PARTS
Fl-24
WARRANTY
Fl-25
DIAGNOSIS G U I D E
Fl-26
MAINTENANCE CHART
Fl-27
CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS
Fl-28
DISTRIBUTOR SPECIFICATIONS
Fl-29
SPARK P L U G GAP
.Fl-30
manifold. Its function is to prevent the reverse flow
of exhaust gases to the pump should the pump
drive fail. This reverse flow would damage the air
pump and connecting hose.
Fl-5. AIR INJECTION TUBES
The air injection tubes of stainless steel are inserted
into machined bosses of the exhaust manifold. The
tubes project into the exhaust ports directing air
into the vicinity of the exhaust valve stem.
Fl-6. ANTI-BACKFIRE DIVERTER VALVE
The anti-backfire diverter valve prevents engine
backfire by briefly interrupting the air being injected into the exhaust manifold during periods of
deceleration (rapid throttle closure).
Fl-7. ENGINE COMPONENTS
The following items vary in design or specifications
from those on vehicles not equipped with the E x haust Emission Control System.
Fl-8. Carburetor
A carburetor with a specific flow characteristic is
used for exhaust emission control.
A carburetor dashpot is provided to control the
throttle closing speed.
Fl-t. Distributor
The ignition distributor used with the exhaust
emission system requires a different advance curve
from that used on the F4-134 engine prior to the
introduction of exhaust emission systems.
143
Fl
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
12793
F I G . F l - 1 — H U R R I C A N E F4-134 E N G I N E E X H A U S T EMISSION CONTROL S Y S T E M
1— Anti-Backfire Diverter Valve
2—Air Pump
3 — Pump A i r Filter
Ignition timing must be set at 0 or at top dead
center.
Fl-10. Exhaust Manifold
The exhaust manifold is provided with a boss that
is drilled and tapped at each cylinder to accept the
air delivery manifold and injection tubes.
Fl-11. MAINTENANCE
Efficient performance of the exhaust emission control system is dependent upon precise maintenance.
In addition to the air pump and connecting hoses
and tubes, this system's efficiency is dependent
upon special carburetor calibration, distributor centrifugal advance curve and ignition timing setting
which must be adjusted at 0 or top dead center.
Road test is a factory recommended optional service every 6,000 miles [9,600 km.] to evaluate overall performance.
The following procedure is recommended to assist
in diagnosing performance and/or emission level
problems that are peculiar to Exhaust Emission
Control System equipped vehicles.
Fl-12. Carburetor
Check carburetor number for proper application.
144
Injection Tube(s) (Inside Manifold)
5—Air Delivery Manifold
6— Check Valve
(Specifications are listed at the end of this section)
Check the dash pot and adjust as required.
Proper carburetor idle mixture adjustment is imperative for best exhaust emission control.
The idle adjustment should be made with the engine at normal operating temperature and air
cleaner in place. Adjust the throttle stop screw to
idle the engine at specified R P M . All lights and
accessories must be turned off.
Fl-13. Carburetor Idle Setting
NOTE: The idle mixture adjustment procedure for
the late model YF-4941S and YF-6115S Carter
Carburetor equipped with the External Idle Mixture Limiter Cap is the same as outlined below
in Pars. "A" through "D"; however, because of the
Idle Limiter Cap, the idle mixture screw C A N N O T
be adjusted in the counter-clockwise (rich) direction. The adjustment is made from the rich stop
position and the mixture screw is turned in (clockwise) approximately % turn to "Lean Best Idle."
Refer to Section E , Fig. E-6.
The "Lean Best Idle" method of idle setting is
as follows:
a. Any scheduled service of ignition system should
precede this adjustment.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
b. Connect tachometer to engine.
c. Warm up engine and stabilize temperatures.
d. Adjust engine idle to speed desired, using throttle idle speed adjusting screw.
e. Carburetors without Idle Limiter Cap turn idle
mixture screws out (counterclockwise) until a loss
of engine speed is indicated; then, slowly turn mixture screw in (clockwise-leaner) until maximum
speed ( R P M ) is reached. Continue turning in
(clockwise) until speed begins to drop; turn mixture
adjustment back out (counterclockwise-richer) until maximum speed is just regained at a "lean as
possible" mixture adjustment.
Fl
are to be replaced only when damaged as a result
of handling or in the event the relief valve was
tampered with.
Fl-18. Carburetor Air Cleaner
Every 6000 miles [9,600 km.] clean the inside surface at the sump and refill to indicated oil level
with S A E 40 or 50 engine oil above 32 F ; S A E 20
below 32 F . Wash filter element in kerosene and
drain. Reassemble the air cleaner.
More frequent cleaning and replacement is advisable when the car is operated in dusty areas or on
unpaved roads. Accumulated dirt restricts air flow,
reducing fuel economy and performance.
Fl-14. Distributor
Check the distributor number for proper application. Check the distributor cam dwell angle and
point condition and adjust to specifications or replace as required. (Specifications listed at the end
of this section) Check ignition timing and set at
0° or T D C .
Fl-15. Anti-iackfire Diverter Valve
The anti-backfire valve remains closed except when
the throttle is closed rapidly from an open position.
To check the valve for proper operation, accelerate
the engine in neutral, allowing the throttle to close
rapidly. The valve is operating satisfactorily when
no exhaust system backfire occurs. A further check
to determine whether the valve is functioning can
be made by removing from the anti-backfire valve
the large hose Which connects to the check valve.
Accelerate the engine to allow the throttle to close
rapidly. The valve is operating satisfactorily if a
momentary interruption of rushing air is audible.
Fl-16. Check Valve
The check valve prevents the reverse flow of exhaust gases to the pump in the event the pump
should, for any reason, become inoperative or
should exhaust pressure ever exceed pump pressure.
To check this valve for proper operation, remove
the air supply hose from the pump at the distribution manifold. With the engine running, listen
for exhaust leakage at the check valve which is
connected to the distribution manifold.
Fl-17. Air Pump
Check for proper drive belt tension with belt tension
gauge W-283. The belt strand tension should be
50-60 pounds on a belt with previous service, measured on the longest accessible span between two
pulleys. When installing a new belt, adjust the
tension to 60-80 pounds tension. D O N O T P R Y
ON T H E D I E C A S T P U M P HOUSING.
To check the pump for proper operation, remove
the air outlet hose at the pump. With the engine
running, air discharge should be felt at the pump
outlet opening. The pump outlet air pressure, as
determined by the relief valve, is preset and is not
adjustable.
The air pump rear cover assembly, housing the
pressed in inlet and discharge tubes, and the pressure relief valve are the only pump components
recommended for service replacement. These parts
Fl-19. REMOVAL PROCEDURES
The following paragraphs give the procedures for
removing the major units of the Exhaust Emission
Control System and the required equipment
needed.
Fl-20. Air Pump
Loosen the air pump adjusting strap to facilitate
drive belt removal. Remove the air pump air discharge hose(s) and air filter attachment. Separate
the air pump from its mounting bracket. At time
of installation, torque tighten the air pump mounting bolts to 30-40 lbs-ft. [4,15 a 5,53 kg-m.]. Adjust
the belt strand tension to 50-60 pounds on a belt
with previous service and 60-80 pounds on a new
belt.
Fl-21. Anti-Backfire Diverter Valve
The anti-backfire diverter valve removal requires
disconnecting the hoses and bracket to engine attaching screws.
Fl-22. Air Distribution Manifold and
Injection Tubes
In order to remove the air distribution manifold
without bending the tubing, which could result in
fractures or leakage, it is necessary to remove the
exhaust manifold as an assembly from the engine.
After the exhaust manifold assembly is removed
from the engine, place the manifold in a vise and
loosen the air distribution manifold tube retaining
nuts at each cylinder exhaust port. Tap the injection tubes lightly to allow the air distribution manifold to be pulled away partially from the exhaust
manifold. The stainless steel injection tubes in the
exhaust manifold may have become partially fused
to the air distribution manifold and, therefore, may
require application of heat to the joint in order to
separate. While applying heat to the joint, rotate
the injection tubes with pliers being careful not to
damage the tubes by applying excessive force.
At time of installation, the air injection tubes must
be positioned into the exhaust manifold prior to
placing the exhaust manifold assembly on the engine.
Note: Two different length injection tubes are used.
The shorter length injection tubes must be inserted
into cylinders 1 and 4.
145
Fl
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
The air distribution manifold should be installed
after the exhaust manifold assembly is torqued
to the cylinder head. The recommended procedure
for exhaust manifold assembly installation is as
follows: Clean the mating surface of both the
manifold and cylinder head. Install the exhaust
manifold to the cylinder head using a new gasket.
Tighten the manifold to cylinder head, attaching
bolts down evenly. Finish torque tightening to 29
to 35 ft. lbs. [3,4 a 4,8 kg-m.].
Fl-23. REQUIRED EQUIPMENT
Each station licensed to perform repair and maintenance on the Exhaust Emission Control System
must be equipped with that equipment necessary
for major engine tune-up analysis which shall include at least the following or equivalent.
Ignition Analyzer Oscilloscope
Ammeter
Ohmmeter
Voltmeter
Tachometer
2 Vacuum Gages
Pressure Gage (0-10 psi.)
Cam Angle Dwell Meter
Ignition Timing Light
Engine Exhaust Combustion Analyzer
Compression Tester
Fl-24. REPLACEMENT PARTS
Parts necessary to repair and/or maintain the
Exhaust Emission Control System are available
through any Jeep S A L E S C O R P O R A T I O N warehouse.
Fl-25. WARRANTY
All parts of the Exhaust Emission Control System
are covered by the Manufacturer's Warranty as
stated in the Warranty Service and 'Jeep' Quality
Maintenance Plan booklet.
Fl-26. EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
Pump Noisy
Hoses Touching Other Parts of Engine or Body
(Hood).
Note: The air pump is not completely noiseless.
Under normal conditions, pump noise rises in pitch
as engine speed increases. It is also desirable to
allow for normal break-in wear of the pump prior
to replacement for excessive noise.
Pump Seized
Pump Inoperative
Loose Belt — tighten belt — do not pry on housing.
Filter Plugged — replace.
Exhaust Backfire
Check for vacuum leaks — correct as necessary.
Check air filter for excessive restriction — replace
as necessary.
Check anti-backfire valve — replace as necessary.
Replace pump.
Leak In Hose
Induction System Backfire
Check for leaks; using soap and water — tighten
clamps or replace hoses.
Verify engine timing and distributor dwell.
Verify accelerator pump charge.
146
Fl
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Fl-27. EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL S Y S T E M MAINTENANCE CHART
Efficient performance of the Exhaust Emission
Control System is dependent upon precise maintenance. As indicated in the following chart, it is
very important that all of the maintenance requirements listed are performed with extreme care at
the specific intervals indicated.
Thousands of miles* or
number of months whichever
occurs first
OPERATION
Inspect engine-driven belts for condition and tension...
Replace positive crankcase ventilation valve ( P C V )
Replace filter on exhaust emission control system
Clean carburetor air cleaner
Engine tune-up
Check engine timing
Adjust carburetor idle speed and mixture
Perform factory-recommended road test for evaluation
of overall performance and handling
R — Required Services
2
6
12
R
R
R
O
o
O
R
R
O
o
24
R
R
R
O
O
o
o
o
o
o
18
30
O
o
o
o
O
o
O — Optional Services
Kilometers
3,200
9,600
19,200
28,800
38,400
48,000
Miles
2,000
6,000
12,000
18,000
24,000
30,000
Fl-28. EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM
CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS
Carter — Single Bore
Make
Models
Part Number
Throttle Bore
Main Venturi
Low Speed Jet
Main Metering Jet
Idle Port
Nozzle Bleed in Body
Pump Jet
Float Level
Dash Pot Setting
Engine Idle R P M : with Distributor Model I A Y - 4 4 0 1 A .
with Distributor Model I A Y - 4 4 0 1 B .
^
an H
4366S
a
n
Y
F
a
4941S, 6115S
1M" [3,81 cm.]
IX" [3,18 cm.]
.035" [0,889 mm.]
.089" [2,26 mm.]
.184" x .030" [4,70 a 0,765]
.028" [0,713 mm.]
.024" [0,610 mm.]
W
[6,74 mm.]
%" [3,75 mm.]
650 — 700
700 — 750
l
Fl-29. EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL S Y S T E M
DISTRIBUTOR SPECIFICATIONS
Engine
Make
Models
Rotation
Point Opening
Breaker Lever Tension..
C a m Angle (Dwell)
Condenser Capacity
Dist. Degrees and R P M :
Start..
Intermediate
Maximum
TIMING:
Crankshaft
Mark Location
Firing Order
F4-134
Prestolite
IAY-4401A
C C W Rotor E n d
.020" [0,508 mm.|
17 — 20 ozs. [482 a 567 gr.l
42°
.25 — .28 mfd.
Prestolite
IAY-4401B
C C W Rotor E n d
.020" [0,508 mm.]
17 — 20 ozs. [482 a 567 gr.
42°
.25 — .28 mfd.
0° — 300
3° — 375
13.5° — 1700
0° — 450
4.5° — 550
13.5° — 1700
0° T D C @ Idle
Crankshaft Pulley
1-3-4-2
0° T D C @ Idle
Crankshaft Pulley
1-3-4-2
Fl-30. SPARK PLUG GAP
Spark Plug G a p .
.030" [0,765 mm.]
147
Fl
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
IMPORTANT NOTICE
The Exhaust Emission Systems covered in this publication meet State and
Federal requirements for hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide emissions.
T o assure continued proper operation, these systems must be inspected
regularly, parts must be replaced at factory-recommended intervals and engine
tune-up services performed at intervals specified in the Exhaust Emission Control System Maintenance charts.
For the above reasons, these systems must not, under any circumstances, be
altered to anything other than required specifications provided in this publication.
Further, the Exhaust Emission Control System, or any of its components, must
not be physically altered or modified in any respect.
DHTfl T A G
For the serviceman's guidance, each vehicle equipped with exhaust emission
control will have data tag permanently affixed to the radiator shroud—-in
example:
VEHICLE EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION
MODEL F4-134 C.I.D.
• ENGINE AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE
• LIGHTS AND ALL ACCESSORIES OFF
• IDLE MIXTURE . . . LEAN BEST IDLE
• IGNITION TIMING 0* (TDC)
• SPARK PLUG GAP . . . .030
• DWELL . . . 42* (.020 POINT GAP)
• IDLE SPEED . . . 700-750 RPM
TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL DURING TUNE UP
S E E S E R V I C E MANUAL F O R A D D I T I O N A L INFORMATION
THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO U.S. DEPT. OF H.E.W. REGULATIONS
APPLICABLE TO 1971 MODEL YEAR NEW MOTOR VEHICLES
Jeep CORPORATION
14401
Important: Always refer to the data tag when checking or re-adjusting ignition
timing, idle speed, and idle mixture.
148
Fl
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM
Contents
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL
.F2-1
HEATED AIR SYSTEM. .
F2-2
Testing Thermo Air Cleaner
F2-4
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve. . . .F2-6
Vacuum Motor Replacement
. .F2-8
Air Cleaner Sensor Replacement
F2-9
Replacement Procedures
F2-7
AIR PUMP
.F2-10
AIR F I L T E R .
F2-11
AIR D E L I V E R Y MANIFOLD.
F2-12
AIR INJECTION T U B E S .
F2-13
ANTI-BACKFIRE VALVE..
.F2-14
E N G I N E COMPONENTS
.F2-15
MAINTENANCE
.F2-3
Carburetor
F2-16, F2-17
Distributor
F2-18
Anti-Backfire Valve
.
.
F2-19
Check Valve..
F2-20
F2-1. GENERAL — V - 6 Engine
The Dauntless V-6 engine Exhaust Emission Control System consists of a belt-driven air pump
which directs compressed air through connecting
hoses to a steel distribution manifold into stainless
steel injection tubes in the exhaust port adjacent
to each exhaust valve. This air, with its normal
oxygen content, reacts with the hot but incompletely burned exhaust gases and permits further
combustion in the exhaust port or manifold.
The Exhaust Emission System on V6-225 engines
limits the hydrocarbon and carbonmonoxide emissions from the exhaust system. The system includes
an engine designed for low emissions and lean
carburetor calibration at idle and part throttle.
The lean carburetion is possible because of the
heated air system that is part of the Emission
System. See Fig. F2-2. With the heated air system
operating, inlet air temperature is around 115°F.
[ 4 6 ° C ] , after the first few minutes of operation.
This makes the use of lean (hot weather) calibration possible, and the vehicle still responds and
drives well in cold weather.
The engine has a "ported" spark advance, with the
vacuum take-off just above the throttle valve, so
that there is no vacuum advance at closed throttle,
but there is vacuum advance as soon as the throttle
is opened slightly. T o reduce emissions at idle and
at lower engine speeds, the engine timing is such
that the distributor will not have centrifugal advance until about 900 R P M .
F2-2. HEATED AIR SYSTEM
The heated air system on late model V6 engines,
consists of a manifold heat collector, a heated-air
SUBJECT
PAR.
Air Pump
Intake Manifold
Carburetor Air Cleaner
REMOVAL PROCEDURES
Air Pump.
Anti-Backfire Valve..
Air Distribution Manifold,
And Air Injection Tubes
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT.. .
R E P L A C E M E N T PARTS..
F2-21
F2-22
F2-5, F2-23
.
F2-24
F2-25
. .F2-26
F2-27
F2-28
.F2-29
WARRANTY
F2-30
DIAGNOSIS G U I D E
F2-31
MAINTENANCE CHART.
F2-32
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
F2-33
C A R B U R E T O R S P E C I F I C A T I O N S . . . . . .F2-34
DISTRIBUTOR SPECIFICATIONS
. .F2-35
S P A R K P L U G GAP
F2-36
pipe, a adapter elbow and an air cleaner containing temperature control doors operated by vacuum
through a temperature sensor. The heat stove is a
sheet metal cover, shaped to and bolted on with
the right exhaust manifold. Air drawn in along
the lower edge of the stove passes across the manifold surface, picking-up heat. The heated air is
drawn out from the front of the manifold, through
the heated air pipe and adapter elbow into the
snorkel of the air cleaner.
The temperature control air cleaner is designed to
mix this heated air with cold air from under the
hood so that carburetor inlet air temperature averages about 115°F. [46°C.]. This mixing is done
by two air doors, a cold air door and a hot air door,
which move together so that when the cold air
door is closed, the hot air door is open and vice
versa. Most of the time, both doors will be partially
open as required to control the temperature. When
the underhood temperature reaches about 135 °F
[ 5 7 ° C ] the cold air door will open wide and the
hot air door will close tight See Fig. F2-3. Obviously, if underhood temperatures rise above
135°F. [ 5 7 ° C ] the air cleaner will no longer be
able to control temperatures and the inlet air temperature will rise with underhood temperature.
The temperature doors are moved by a diaphragm
type vacuum door. When there is no vacuum present in the motor, the diaphragm spring forces the
cold air door open and the hot air door closed.
Whenever the engine is running, the amount of
vacuum present in the vacuum motor depends on
the temperature sensor in the air cleaner which
is located in the vacuum line between the intake
manifold and the vacuum motor. In the sensor, a
149
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
bi-metal temperature sensing spring starts to open
a valve to bleed more air into the vacuum line
whenever the temperature in the air cleaner rises
above about 115°F. [46°C.]. Whenever the temperature falls below about 115°F. [ 4 6 ° C ] the
sensing spring starts to close the air bleed into the
vacuum line, allowing more manifold vacuum to
reach the vacuum motor. Whenever there is 9
inches [22,8 cm.] or more of vacuum in the vacuum
motor, the diaphragm spring is compressed, the
cold air door is closed and the hot air door is
opened.
When the engine is not running, the diaphragm
spring will always hold the cold air door open and
the hot air door closed. However, when the engine
is running, the position of the doors depends on the
air temperature in the air cleaner.
When starting a cold engine (air cleaner temperature under 95° F . [35° C.]), the cold air door will
close and the hot air door will open immediately.
150
See Fig. F2-4. This is because the air bleed valve
in the sensor is closed so that full manifold vacuum
is applied in the vacuum motor. The cold air door
will remain tightly closed only a few minutes, however. As soon as the air cleaner starts receiving
hot air from the heat stove, the sensor will cause
the cold air door to open partially, mixing cold air
with the hot air as necessary to regulate air cleaner
temperature within 20° of the ideal 115°F. [ 4 6 ° C ]
air inlet temperature. See Fig. F2-5.
If underhood air temperature rises to 135° F .
[57° C ] the air to the vacuum bleed valve in the
sensor will be wide open so that vacuum motor
approaches zero. The diaphragm spring in the vacuum motor will hold the cold air door wide open
and close the hot air door tightly. If underhood
temperature rises above 135° F . [57° C ] carburetor inlet air temperature will also rise above
135° F . [57° C . ] .
While air cleaner temperature is being regulated,
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
F2
F I G . F 2 - 2 — D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E E X H A U S T E M I S S I O N H E A T E D A I R S Y S T E M
1— Air Cleaner
2— Vacuum Motor
3— Control Damper and Linkage
4—Adapter Elbow and Hose
5—Manifold Heat Collector
accelerating the engine hard will cause the vacuum
level in the intake manifold and in the vacuum
motor to drop. Whenever vacuum drops below 5
inches [12,7 cm.] the diaphragm spring will open
the cold air door wide in order to get the maximum
air flow required for maximum acceleration.
overall performance.
The following procedure is recommended to assist
in diagnosing performance and/or emission level
problems that are peculiar to Controlled Combustion Equipped vehicles.
F2-3. MAINTENANCE
Since failure of the air cleaner will generally result
in the snorkel cold air door staying open, failure
will probably go unnoticed in warm or hot weather.
In cold weather, however, owners will complain of
leanness, hesitation, sag, surge or stalling. When any
type of lean operation complaint is received, always
test the heated air system for proper functioning
before doing any work on the carburetor.
Note: Always perform checks in the same order
as listed below.
Efficient performance of the Exhaust Emission
System is dependent on precise maintenance. I n
addition to the heated air system, air pump, connecting hoses and tubes, it is essential that the
carburetor and ignition distributor be properly adjusted to specifications listed at the end of this
section.
Road test is a factory-recommended optional service every 6,000 miles [9,600 km.] to evaluate
F2-4. Testing Thermo Air Cleaner Operation
151
F2
E X H A U S T EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
<3>
FIG.
F2-3—COLD
1—Linkage
2 — Motor
3 — Air Cleaner
4— Sensor
5—Temp Sensing Spring
6—Air Bleed Valve
7—Hot Air Pip®
Give the system a general check as follows:
1. Check all hoses for proper hook-up. Check
for kinked, plugged or damaged hoses.
2. With engine off, make sure cold air door is
wide open.
3. With engine running, check operation of vacuum motor by connecting a test hose directly
from intake manifold to vacuum motor. Cold
air door should close. If door fails to close,
determine if motor linkage is properly connected to door or if a bind is present; if linkage is satisfactory, then vacuum motor must
be replaced.
Give the system a quick operational check as
follows:
152
AIR DOOR
OPEN
8—Diaphragm Spring
9—Diaphragm
10—Control Damper
11—Air Inlet
12—Vacuum Chamber
1 3 — Snorkel Tube
1. Start test with engines cold, air cleaner at a
temperature below 85° F . [29.4° C . ] . If the
engine has been in recent use, allow it to cool.
2. Observe the cold air door before starting the
engine; it should be wide open.
3. Start the engine and allow it to idle. Immediately after starting the engine, the cold
air door should close.
4. As the engine warms up, the cold air door
should start to open and the air cleaner
should become warm to the hand.
5. The system is operating normally as described above. If the air cleaner fails to
operate as above or if correct operation of
the air cleaner is still in doubt, proceed to
the thermometer check.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
FIG. F2-4—HOT A I R DOOR
1— Linkage
2 — Motor
3— Air Cleaner
4— Sensor
5— Temp Sensing Spring
6— Air Bleed Valve
7—Hot Air Pipe
To perform the thermometer check, proceed as
follows:
1. Start test with air cleaner temperature below
85° F . [29.4° C . ] . If engine has been run
recently, allow it to cool down. While engine
is cooling, remove air cleaner cover and
install a temperature gage next to sensor.
Reinstall air cleaner cover. Do not install
wing nut. Let car stand idle for V2 hour or
more before proceeding to step 2.
2. Start engine. Cold air door should close immediately if engine is cool enough. When
cold air door starts to open (in a few minutes), remove air cleaner cover and read
temperature gage. It must read 115° F .
[46° C ] ± 2 0 ° .
F2
OPEN
8— Diaphragm Spring
9 — Diaphragm
1 0 —Control Damper
11— Air Inlet
1 2 —Vacuum Chamber
1 3 — Snorkel Tube
3. If cold air door does not start to open at
temperature indicated, temperature sensor is
defective and must be replaced.
F2-5. Carburetor Air C l e a n e r — D r y Type
Every 24,000 miles [38,400 km.] (or more frequently in dusty territory) replace the air cleaner
element. T o do this, remove the wing nut and cover
from the air cleaner housing. Lift out the air cleaner
element. Wipe the inside of the housing clean.
Service the positive crankcase valve filler as outlined in paragraph F2-6. Make sure the air cleaner
gasket is in good condition and properly located
on the carburetor flange. Install a new element, the
cover and wing nut. Tighten the wing nut by hand.
Tighten to make sure the air cleaner remains
153
F2
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
FIG. F2-5—COLD AND H O T A I R DOORS P A R T I A L L Y
1— Motor
2 —Air Cleaner
3— Sensor
4— Temp Sensing Spring
5— Air Bleed Valve
6— Hot A i r Pipe
7—Diaphragm Spring
stationary and to make sure the gasket
properly.
seals
F2-6. Positive Crankcase Ventilator Valve
Every 12,000 miles [19,200 km.] replace the positive crankcase ventilator valve. Also, remove the
P C V filter from inside the air cleaner. Wash filter
in suitable solvent and dry by blowing lightly
with an air hose. Oil with engine oil; shake out
excess oil. Reinstall the filter. After installing new
valve, always readjust engine idle.
F2-7. Replacement Procedures
Should the test performed in paragraph F2-4
indicate necessary replacement of the heated air
154
OPEN
8— Diaphragm
9— Control Damper
10— Linkage
1 1 —Air Inlet
1 2 — Vacuum Chamber
1 3 — Snorkel Tube
system vacuum motor or sensor, use the procedure
outlined in the following paragraphs.
F2-8. Replacement of Vacuum Motor
a. Drill center of two spot welds using a ]f inch
[1,59 mm.] drill. Do not center punch.
b. Enlarge two holes using a j& inch [3,96 mm.]
drill.
6
Caution: Use extreme care not to damage the ail
cleaner snorkel.
c. Remove vacuum motor retainer strap. See Fig.
F2-6.
d. Lift vacuum motor, cocking it to one side to
unhook motor linkage at the control door.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
F2
damage to the temperature sensing spring. See
Fig. F 2 - 7 .
f. Reinstall vacuum hoses.
F2-10. AIR PUMP
The air injection pump is a positive displacement
vane type which is permanently lubricated and
requires no periodic maintenance.
The pump contains an integral relief valve which
controls the air supplied to the engine exhaust ports
during high speed operation to limit maximum
exhaust system temperatures.
F2-11. AIR FILTER
The air injection system draws clean air from the
carburetor air filter through an inlet hose, into the
air pump and from the pump through two outlets
(one for each cylinder head).
14043
F2-12. AIR DELIVERY MANIFOLD
FIG. F2-6—REPLACING VACUUM
MOTOR ASSEMBLY
A — D r i l l VW Hole
1—Motor
B—Sensor Unit Replacement Position
3—Sensor Unit
2 — Spot Welds
4—Retaining Strap
•e. Drill a %j inch [2,78 mm.] hole in snorkel tube
at point "A" as shown in Fig. F 2 - 6 .
f. Use the motor strap retainer and the sheet metal
screw provided in the motor replacement kit to
secure the retainer and motor to the snorkel tube.
g. Make sure the screw does not interfere with the
operation of the damper assembly. Shorten screw
if required.
F2-9. Replacement of Air Cleaner Sensor
a. Remove two sensor retaining clips by prying. See
Fig. F 2 - 7 .
b. Pull vacuum hoses from sensor.
c. Note carefully the installed position of the sensor
so that you can install new sensor in same position.
Then remove sensor.
d. Install sensor and gasket assembly in air cleaner
m same position as noted in step c. This is to
eliminate the possibility of interference with the air
filter element.
e. Install sensor retaining clip, meanwhile supporting sensor at B around the outside rim to prevent
T h e air delivery manifolds constructed of cold
rolled steel with a zinc plating, distribute the air
from the pump to each of the air delivery tubes in
a uniform manner.
Two check valves are included to prevent the
reverse flow of exhaust gases to the pump should
the pump drive fail. This reverse flow would damage the air pump and connecting hose.
F2-13. AIR INJECTION TUBES
The air injection tubes of stainless steel are inserted into machined bosses of the cylinder head.
The tubes project into the exhaust ports directing
air into the vicinity of the exhaust valve stem.
F2-14. ANTI-BACKFIRE VALVE
The anti-backfire valve is used to provide a "gulp"
of air into the engine induction system during rapid
throttle opening and subsequent closure. During
rapid throttle closure, the valve opens for approximately one (1) second and bleeds air into the
intake manifold through a fitting in the carburetor.
Its function is to bleed an adequate amount of
air below the carburetor throttle plate to compensate for the overrich fuel mixture normally inducted
into the combustion chamber during rapid throttle
closure.
Filtered air from the pump is provided to the
anti-backfire valve by means of a connecting hose.
An exhaust system backfire will result if the valve
fails to function properly.
F2-15. ENGINE COMPONENTS
The following item varies in design or specifications
from those on vehicles not equipped with the E x haust Emission Control System.
F2-16. Carburetor
14042
FIG. F2-7—REPLACING SENSOR
1—Sensor Retaining Clip
ASSEMBLY
Check carburetor number for proper application.
Specifications are listed in this section.
Proper carburetor idle mixture adjustment is imperative for best exhaust emission control.
The idle adjustment should be made with the engine at normal operating temperature, lights and
accessories off and the air cleaner in place. Adjust
155
F2
EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
the throttle stop screw to idle the engine at 650
to 700 rpm.
F2-17. Carburetor Idle Setting
The "Lean Best Idle" Method of Idle Setting is as
follows:
a. Any scheduled service of ignition system should
precede this adjustment
b. Connect tachometer to engine.
c. Warm up engine and stabilize temperatures.
d. Adjust engine idle to speed desired, using throttle idle speed adjusting screw.
e. Turn idle mixture screws out (counterclockwise)
until a loss of engine speed is indicated; then
slowly turn mixture screws in (clockwise-leaner)
until maximum speed (rpm) is reached. Continue
turning in (clockwise) until speed begins to drop;
turn mixture adjustment back out (counterclockwise-richer) until maximum speed is just regained
at a "lean as possible" mixture adjustment.
F2-18. Distributor
The ignition distributor used with the Exhaust
Emission Control System is the same as that used
on engines without Exhaust Emission Control.
Check the distributor cam dwell angle and point
condition. Check ignition timing and adjust to
specifications shown on the last page of this section.
F2-19. Anti-Backfire Valve
The anti-backfire valve remains closed except when
the throttle is closed rapidly from an open position.
To check the valve for proper operation, accelerate
the engine in neutral, allowing the throttle to close
rapidly. The valve is operating satisfactorily when
no exhaust system backfire occurs. A further check
to determine whether the valve is functioning can
be made by removing from the anti-backfire valve
the large hose which connects the valve to the
pump. With a finger placed over the open end of
the hose (not the valve), accelerate the engine and
allow the throttle to close rapidly. The valve is
operating satisfactorily if a momentary air rushing
noise is audible.
F2-20. Check Valve
The check valves in the lines to the air distribution
manifolds prevent the reverse flow of exhaust gases
to the pump in the event the pump should, for
any reason, become inoperative or should exhaust
pressure ever exceed pump pressure.
To check this valve for proper operation, remove
the air supply hose from the pump at the check
valve. With the engine running, listen for exhaust
leakage at the check valve which is connected to
the distribution manifold.
F2-21. Air Pump
Check for proper drive belt tension with belt tension
gauge W-283. The belt strand tension should be
60 pounds measured on the longest accessible span
between two pulleys. D O N O T P R Y O N T H E
D I E CAST P U M P HOUSING.
156
To check the pump for proper operation, remove
the air outlet hose at the pump. With the engine
running, air discharge should be felt at one of
the pump outlet openings. The pump outlet air
pressure, as determined by the relief valve, is preset
and is not adjustable.
The air pump rear cover assembly, housing the
pressed in inlet and discharge tubes, and the pressure relief valve are the only pump components
recommended for service replacement. These parts
are to be replaced only when damaged as a result
of handling or in the event the relief valve was
tampered with.
F2-22. Intake Manifold
Intake manifold leaks must not be overlooked. Air
leakage at the intake manifold may be compensated for by richer idle mixture setting, however,
this will usually cause uneven fuel-air distribution
and will always result in loss of performance and
exhaust emission control. T o check for air leakage
into the intake manifold, apply kerosene or naphtha, on the intake manifold to cylinder head joints
and observe whether any changes in engine rpm
occur. If an air leak is indicated, check the manifold to cylinder head bolt torque. The correct
torque is 25-35 lbs. ft. [3,46 a 4,84 kg-m.]. If the
leak is still evident, loosen the manifold assembly
and torque-tighten the bolts evenly. Start from the
center and use proper torque values. Replace the
manifold gasket if the leak still exists. Clean both
mating surfaces and check for burrs or other irregularities.
Always torque the bolts evenly to the specified
torque value to prevent warpage.
F2-23. Carburetor Air Cleaner — O i l Bath
Every 6,000 miles [9,600 km.] disconnect attaching hoses and unscrew the wing nut from the top
of the air cleaner and lift it off the carburetor.
Lift the cover and filter element off the oil sump.
Clean the inside surface of the sump and refill to
indicated oil level with S A E 40 or 50 engine oil
above 32 F ; S A E 20 below 32 F . Wash filter
element in kerosene and drain. Reassemble the air
cleaner and install on carburetor.
More frequent cleaning and replacement are advisable when the car is operated in dusty areas or on
unpaved roads. Accumulated dirt restricts air flow,
reducing fuel economy and performance.
F2-24. REMOVAL PROCEDURES
The following paragraphs give the procedures for
removing the major units of the exhaust emission
control system and the required equipment needed.
F2-2S. Air Pump
Loosen the air pump mounting bracket bolts. Remove the air pump air hose(s). Separate the air
pump from its mounting bracket. At time of installation, torque tighten the air pump mounting bolts
to 30-40 lbs.-ft [4,15 a 5,53 kg-m.]. Adjust the
belt strand tension to 60 pounds.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
F2-26. Anti-Backfire Valve
The anti-backfire valve removal requires disconnecting the hoses and bracket to engine attaching
screws.
F2-27. Air Distribution Manifold and
Injection Tubes
The air distribution manifolds can be removed
from the cylinder heads without removing the
cylinder head assemblies.
Disconnect the air delivery hose from the pump at
the distribution manifold inlet (check valve).
Loosen the distribution manifold tube attaching
nuts from the cylinder head and carefully work the
distribution manifold away from the cylinder head.
The air injection tubes can be removed from the
cylinder head with head on the engine.
Insert an easy-out through the boss opening on the
cylinder head into the injection tube and twist
the tube out gradually. Some interference to removal may be encountered due to normal carbon
build-up on the tubes. Injection tubes removed in
this manner should be replaced.
The injection tubes used are all of the same diameter and length.
F2-28. REQUIRED EQUIPMENT
Each station licensed to perform repair and main-
F2
tenance on the Exhaust Emission Control System
must be equipped with that equipment necessary
for major engine tune-up analysis which shall include at least the following or equivalent:
Ignition Analyzer Oscilloscope
Ammeter
Ohmmeter
Voltmeter
Tachometer
2 Vacuum Gauges
Pressure Gauge (0-10 psi.)
Cam Angle Dwell Meter
Ignition Timing Light
Engine Exhaust Combustion Analyzer
Compression Tester
F2-29. REPLACEMENT PARTS
Parts necessary to repair and/or maintain the E x haust Emission Control System are available
through any Jeep S A L E S C O R P O R A T I O N warehouse.
F2-30. WARRANTY
All parts of the Exhaust Emission Control System
are covered by the Manufacturer's Warranty as
stated in the Warranty Service and 'Jeep' Quality
Maintenance Plan booklet.
157
F2
E X H A U S T EMISSION CONTROL
SYSTEMS
F2-3L EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL S Y S T E M DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
Pump Noisy
Hoses Touching Other Parts of Engine or Body
(Hood).
Note: The Air Pump is not completely noiseless.
Under normal conditions, pump noise rises in pitch
as engine speed increases. It is desirable to allow
for normal break-in wear of the pump prior to replacement for excessive noise.
Leak In Hose
Check for leaks; using soap and water, tighten
clamps or replace hoses.
Pump Inoperative
Loose Belt — tighten belt - - do not pry on housing.
Filter Plugged — replace.
Exhaust Backfire
Check for vacuum leaks — correct as necessary.
Check anti-backfire valve — replace as necessary
Induction System Backfire
Verify engine timing and distributor dwell.
Verify accelerator pump charge.
Pump Seized
Replace pump.
F2-32. EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL S Y S T E M MAINTENANCE CHART
Efficient performance of the Exhaust Emission
Control System is dependent upon precise maintenance. As indicated in the following chart, it is
very important that all of the maintenance requirements are performed with extreme care at the
specific interval indicated.
Thousands of miles* or
number of months whichever
occurs
first
OPERATION
Inspect engine-driven belts for condition and tension
Replace positive crankcase ventilation valve ( P C V )
Check for free operation of exhaust manifold heat control valve
Clean carburetor air cleaner — Oil B a t h
Replace carburetor air cleaner element — D r y Type
Check heated air system
Engine tune-up
Check engine timing
Adjust carburetor idle speed and mixture
Perform factory-recommended road test for evaluation of overall
performance and handling
R — Required Services
* Miles
Kilometers
2,000 — 3,200
6,000 — 9,600
12,000 — 19,200
18,000 — 28,800
24,000 — 38,400
30,000 — 48,000
2
6
12
O
O
R
R
O
O
18
O
O
O
O
R
R
O
O
O
O
O
F2-33. GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
60 lb.
37 lb-in.
10 lb-ft.
1 \i to 1
.
F2-34. EXHAUST EMISSION CONTROL S Y S T E M
CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS
Make
Model Designation
Code Number
Choke
Number of Barrels
Throttle B o r e . . .
M a i n Metering Jet
Production
High Altitude — over 5000 ft
— over 10,000 ft
Float Level Adjustment*
Float Drop Adjustment
Pump Rod Adjustment**
Engine Idle R . P . M . ( I n Neutral)
Initial Idle Speed-screw setting
Initial Idle Mixture-screw setting
D a s h Pot Setting.
*From air horn gasket to top of float at toe.
**From air cleaner ring to top of pump rod.
158
R
R
O
O
O
O
O
O
O
O — Recommended Services
Air Pump Belt Tension
Rotor Ring Screw Torque
Housing Cover Bolt Torque
Speed Ratio, Air Pump to Engine
24
Rochester
2G
7027082 — 7041185
Manual
2
\W [3,65 cm.]
.051" - 60° [1,29 mm.]
.049" - 60° [1,24 mm.]
.047" - 60° [1,19 mm.]
1%," [2,94 cm.]
l%" [4,76 cm.]
1%" [2,94 cm.]
650 to 700
3 turns in
2 turns out
Y [3,75 mm.]
w
%
30
O
O
O
O
O
O
F2
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
F2-35. EXHAUST EMISSION CONTOL S Y S T E M
DISTRIBUTOR SPECIFICATIONS
Distributor:
Make
Model...
Breaker Point Gap
Breaker A r m Tension
C a m Angle.
Max. Auto Advance
(Crankshaft Degrees).
Delco-Remy
1110376
.016" [0,406 mm.]
19 to 23 oz. [538 a 652 gr.]
29° to 31°
Prestolite
IAT-4501 or IAT-4502
.016" [0,406 mm.]
17 to 22 oz. [482 a 623 gr.]
29° + 3°
Prestolite
IAT-4502A
.016" [0,406 mm.]
17 to 22 oz. [482 a 623 gr.]
29° ± 3°
13° to 15° at 1,950 rpm.
16° (& 1800 rpm.
26° @ 4200 rpm. (Max.)
21° @ 1800 rpm.
32° @ 4200 rpm. (Max.)
8°
.18 to .23 mfd.
8°
.25 to .28 mfd.
8°
.25 to .28 mfd.
5° ( B T C ) @ Idle
Crankshaft Pulley
1-6-5-4-3-2
5° ( B T C ) © Idle
Crankshaft Pulley
1-6-5-4-3-2
0° ( T D C ) © Idle
Crankshaft Pulley
1-6-5-4-3-2
Max. V a c . Advance
(Distributor Degrees)
Condenser Capacity.
Timing:
Crankshaft
M a r k Location
Firing Order
F2-36. SPARK PLUG GAP
Spark Plug G a p .
.035" [0,889 mm.]
IMPORTANT NOTICE
The Exhaust Emission Systems covered in this publication meet State and Federal
requirements for hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide emissions.
To assure continued proper operation, these systems must be inspected regularly,
parts must be replaced at factory-recommended intervals and engine tune-up services
performed at intervals specified in the Exhaust Emission Control System Maintenance
charts.
For the above reasons, these systems must not, under any circumstances, be altered
to anything other than required specifications provided in this publication. Further,
the Exhaust Emission Control System, or any of its components, must not be physically altered or modified in any respect.
DATA T A G
For the serviceman's guidance, each vehicle equipped with exhaust emission control
will have data tag permanently affixed to the radiator shroud — in example:
V E H I C L E EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION
MODEL V6-225 C.I.D.
•
•
•
ENGINE AT NORMAL O P E R A T I N G T E M P E R A T U R E
L I G H T S AND A L L ACCESSORIES O F F
I D L E MIXTURE . . . L E A N B E S T I D L E
•
IGNITION TIMING 0* (TDC)
•
DWELL . . . 30* (.016 POINT GAP)
• I D L E S P E E D . . . 6 5 0 - 700 RPM
TRANSMISSION IN N E U T R A L DURING TUNE UP
* SPARK P L U G GAP
S E E S E R V I C E MANUAL FOR ADDITIONAL
THIS VEHICLE
APPLICABLE
CONFORMS
Jeep
INFORMATION
TO U.S. DEPT. OF H.E.W.
TO 1971 MODEL YEAR
035
NEW MOTOR
REGULATIONS
VEHICLES
CORPORATION
14400
N O T E : The above tag applies to vehicles equipped with Distributor Model IAT-4502A.
On vehicles equipped with Distributor Models 1110376, IAT-4501 and IAT-4502 the tag is the same
except that Ignition Timing is 5° T . D . C .
Always refer to the data tag when checking or re-adjusting ignition timing, idle speed, and idle mixture.
159
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
COOLING SYSTEM
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL
.G-l
Antifreeze Solutions.
.G-l6
Cylinder Block.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-8
Draining Cooling S y s t e m . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G-3
Engine Overheating.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-19
Fan B e l t . . . . . . . . . .
.........
.G-18
Filling Cooling S y s t e m . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G-2
Inhibited Coolant Solution
.G-l7
Temperature Sending Unit. . . . . . . . . . . . . G - l 0
Thermostat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G-9
RADIATOR
.G-5
Radiator and Heater H o s e s . . . . . . . . . . . . . G-7
SUBJECT
PAR.
Radiator Pressure C a p . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G-4
Radiator Removal and Replacement..... G-6
WATER
Water
Water
Water
Water
PUMP. .
. .G-ll
Pump Disassembly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . G - 1 3
Pump Inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-12
Pump Reassembly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G-14
Pump Removal and Replacement. . G - l 5
S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS.
.G-20
SPECIFICATIONS
A N T I F R E E Z E CHART.
. .G-21
.....
. . . .G-22
G - l . GENERAL
a. The satisfactory performance of the Hurricane
F 4 engine is controlled to a great extent by the
proper operation of the cooling system. The engine
block is full length water jacketed which prevents
distortion of the cylinder walls. Directed cooling
and large water holes, properly placed in the cylinder head gasket cause more water to flow past the
valve seats (which are the hottest parts of the
block) and carry the heat away from the valves,
giving positive cooling of valves and seats.
Minimum temperature of the coolant is controlled
by a thermostat mounted in the outlet passage of
the engine. When the coolant temperature is below
thermostat-rated temperature, the thermostat remains closed and the coolant is directed through
the radiator-bypass hose to the water pump. When
the thermostat opens, coolant flow is directed to
the top of the radiator. The radiator dissipates the
excess engine heat before the coolant is recirculated
through the engine.
The cooling system is pressurized. Operating pressure is regulated by the rating of the radiator cap
which contains a relief valve,
b. The Dauntless V-6 engine efficiency and performance is controlled to a great extent by proper
operation of the cooling system. The cooling system
does more than cool the engine. It also directs
the flow of coolant to provide the best operating
temperature range for each part of the engine.
In the Dauntless V-6 engine coolant is forced by
the water pump into two main passages that run
the length of the block on each side (Fig. G - l ) .
F I G . G-1—COOLANT FLOW T H R O U G H T H E DAUNTLESS V-6 E N G I N E
161
COOLING S Y S T E M
14263
F I G . G - 2 — C O O L I N G S Y S T E M C O M P O N E N T S V-6 E N G I N E
1— Radiator Pressure Cap
2 — Hose Clamp
3 — Radiator Hose (Inlet-Upper)
4— Radiator Hose (Outlet-Lower)
5— Bolt
6— Water Pump Assembly
7— Cap
8—Thermostat By-Pass Hose
g—Water Outlet Elbow
10— Gasket
11—Thermostat
12—Water Pump Gasket
1 3 — Dowel P i n
1 4 —Radiator Shroud (Heavy Duty Cooling)
From these main passages, the coolant flows around
the full length of each combustion chamber.
After cooling the block, the coolant passes through
ports between the block and each cylinder head.
These ports direct most of the coolant flow around
the exhaust valve area to prevent hot exhaust gases
from overheating the exhaust ports.
From the cylinder heads, the water passes into a
water manifold between each of the heads and the
water pump. If the thermostat is closed, the coolant
is ported back to the pump where it is recirculated
back into the pump and into the engine. After the
coolant heats enough to open the thermostat, the
coolant is directed from the water manifold through
a hose to the top of the radiator and then through
the radiator which acts as a heat exchanger to cool
162
1 5 —Pulley
1 6 —F a n Spacer
1 7 —F a n and Alternator Belt
18—Fan
1 9 — Lockwasher
20— Radiator
21—Drain Cock
the fluid. The coolant is then ported through a hose
from the bottom of the radiator to the pump, which
recirculates it back to the engine.
The cooling system is pressurized. Operating pressure is regulated by a relief valve in the radiator
cap.
The heater inlet hose is connected to a port on
the right bank cylinder head. The outlet hose is
connected to the heater adapter tube on the water
pump.
c. It is recommended when using water for coolant
that the cooling system be flushed and checked for
leaks twice a year, preferably in the fall before
antifreeze is added and in the spring when the
antifreeze is drained.
Reverse flushing will aid greatly in removing rust
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
and scale, especially when used with a flushing
solution. A cleaning solution should be used to
loosen the rust and scale before reverse flushing
the cooling system.
Flushing is accomplished through the system in a
direction opposite to the normal coolant flow. This
action causes the water to get behind the corrosion
deposits and force them out. To do this, remove
the upper and lower radiator hoses. Then attach a
drain hose at the top of the radiator. Attach a new
piece of hose to the radiator outlet at the bottom
and insert the flushing gun. Connect the water hose
to the flushing gun to a water outlet and the air
G
hose to an air line. Turn on the water and when
the radiator is full, apply the air in short blasts,
allowing the radiator to fill between blasts. Continue this flushing operation until the water runs
clear through the top hose.
With the thermostat removed, attach a leadaway
hose to the water hose inlet. Also attach a length
of new hose to the water outlet connection at the
top of the engine. Turn the water on and fill the
water jacket and then apply air in short blasts.
Continue this flushing until the water runs clear.
Also do the hot water heater. Remove heater water
outlet hose from heater core. Remove inlet from
163
G
COOLING
engine connections. Insert flushing gun and flush
heater core. Care must be taken when applying air
pressure to prevent damage to the heater core.
G-2. Filling Cooling System
To fill the cooling system, remove the fill cap and
fill the tank to the top. Replace the cap and run
the engine at medium speed for approximately one
minute. Remove the cap and recheck the coolant
level. Add more coolant if necessary to bring the
level back to the top of the tank. If the cooling
system is filled when the engine is cold, recheck the
coolant level after the engine has warmed up. This
will ensure that the thermostat has opened allowing complete cooling system circulation.
Always correct any cooling system leaks before
installing antifreeze. A corrosion inhibitor should
be used in the cooling system to prevent the formation of rust and scale. A quality brand antifreeze
containing a corrosion inhibitor should be used.
When the antifreeze is drained in the spring, a
corrosion inhibitor should be added with the water.
Note: Cooling system components for both V6 and
F4 engines are shown in Figs. G-2 and G-3.
G-3. Draining Cooling System
To completely drain the cooling system, open the
drain in the bottom of the radiator and also a
drain on the right side of the cylinder block on
the Hurricane F 4 engine. The Dauntless V-6 engine
has two drain plugs, one located on each side of
the cylinder block. Both plugs must be removed to
completely drain the cooling system.
Remove the radiator cap to break any vacuum
that may have developed.
Should the cooling solution be lost from the system
and the engine become overheated do not refill
the system immediately but allow the engine to
cool or refill slowly while the engine is running. If
cold solution is poured into the radiator while the
engine is overheated there is danger of cracking the
cylinder block and/or cylinder head.
G-4. Radiator Pressure Cap
All radiators are equipped with pressure caps which
reduce evaporation of cooling solution and make
the engines more efficient by permitting slightly
higher operating temperatures. When operating
properly, the pressure cap permits pressure build-up
in the cooling system during periods of severe heat
load. This pressure increases the boiling point of
the coolant and thus reduces overflow losses. The
effectiveness of the cap is limited by its opening
pressure and the boiling point of the coolant (see
note below). The pressure cap employs a springloaded, rubber-faced pressure seal which presses
against a seat in the radiator top tank. Spring pressure determines the opening pressure of the valve.
A typical pressure cap is shown in Fig. G-5.
Note: Refer to cooling system specifications (Par.
G-21) for opening (relief) pressure when the vehicle is equipped with either the Hurricane F 4
or Dauntless V-6 engine. If a new cap is required,
always install a cap of the same type and pressure
164
SYSTEM
rating specified. It should never be altered or replaced by a plain cap.
A vacuum release valve (Fig. G-5) is employed to
prevent undesirable vacuum build-up when the
system cools down. The vacuum release valve is
held against its seat under light spring pressure.
Vacuum in the system is relieved by the valve
which opens at V2 to 1 psi. [0,035 a 0,07 kg-cm ]
vacuum. A pressure tester can be used to check and
test the vacuum pressure rate (see Fig. G-6).
Although the mechanism of the pressure cap requires no maintenance, the cap should be inspected
periodically for cleanliness and freedom of operation. The pressure cap gasket and radiator filler
neck seat should also be inspected to be sure they
are providing a proper seal. If the rubber face of
the valve is defective, a new cap should be installed.
Filler neck reseating tools are commercially available to correct minor defects at the surface of the
seat. Follow instructions of the reseating tool manufacturer.
To remove the radiator pressure cap when the
engine coolant temperature is high or boiling, place
a cloth over the pressure cap and turn counterclockwise about Vi turn until the first (pressure
release) stop is reached. Keep the cap in this position until all pressure is released. Then push cap
down and turn still further until cap can be removed. To install the pressure cap, place it in position and turn it clockwise as far as it will go.
2
Caution: Use extreme care in removing the radiator
pressure cap. I n overheated systems, the sudden
release of pressure can cause a steam flash and this
flash, or the loosened cap can cause serious personal
injury.
G-5. RADIATOR
Maintenance of the radiator consists of keeping
the exterior of the radiator core clean, the interior
free from rust and scale, and the radiator free from
leaks. Check the cooling system fluid level and for
leaks each 2000 miles [3.200 km.] or every 30
days, whichever occurs first. This exterior of the
radiator core should be cleaned and the radiator
inspected for leaks each 6000 miles [9.600 km.]
of normal service of the vehicle. Cleaning should
be performed by blowing out with air stream or
water stream directed from the rear of the radiator.
Visual inspection is not sufficient as the accumulation of small particles of foreign material on core
surfaces can restrict cooling without closing the core
openings.
Radiator leakage occasionally results from corrosion perforation of the metal but most leakage
results from mechanical failure of soldered joints
when too much strain has been put on the joint.
Fractures occur most often at the joint where the
radiator inlet and outlet pipes are attached to the
tanks. When the seams break, the entire soldered
joint is exposed and can corrode, but breakage
rather than corrosion is the primary cause of seam
leakage. Examine the radiator carefully for leaks
before and after cleaning. Cleaning may uncover
points of leakage already existing but plugged with
rust. White, rusty, or colored leakage stains indicate
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
FIG. G-4—PRESSURE
G
T E S T I N G COOLING S Y S T E M
1—Pressure Tester C-3499
previous radiator leakage. These spots may not be
damp if water only or methyl-alcohol-base antifreeze is in the cooling system since such coolants
evaporate readily. An ethylene-glycol-base antifreeze shows up existing leaks as it does not evaporate. The radiator may be tested for leaks by using
a Pressure Tester Tool C-4080, as shown in Fig.
G-2.
When the pressure cap opens, the sudden surge of
vapor or liquid must blow out through the overflow
pipe. If the overflow pipe is dented or clogged,
the pressure caused by obstruction may cause damage to the radiator or hose connections in the cool1
FIG. G-6—TESTING RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
1— Radiator Pressure Cap
2— Adapter
3 — Pressure Tester C-3499
ing system. To remove clogging material, run a
flexible wire through the overflow pipe.
G-6. Radiator Removal and Replacement
a. Drain the radiator by opening the drain cock
and removing the radiator pressure cap.
b. Remove the upper and lower hose clamps and
hoses at the radiator.
c. Remove the four cap screws, lock washers and
flat washers that secure the radiator to the radiator
body support. Remove the radiator.
d. To replace the radiator, reverse the removal
procedure.
G-7. Radiator Hoses and Heater Hoses
FIG. G-5—RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP
1—Pressure Cap
2— Overflow Tube
3 — Pressure Seal
4— Vacuum Release Valve
5— Radiator Neck
Air, heat, and water deteriorate radiator and heater
hoses in two ways: by hardening or cracking which
destroys flexibility and causes leaks; by softening
and swelling which produces lining failure and hose
rupture and clogging. Examine hoses spring and
fall for possible need of replacement or tightening.
If hoses are collapsed, cracked, or indicate a soft
condition on the inside they should be replaced.
Correct installation of a new heater hose is important to prevent contact between the hose and the
exhaust manifold. On the Hurricane F 4 engine the
molded curved end of the hose connects to the
hot water intake of the heater; the flexible end to
the hot water valve on top of the cylinder head.
On the Dauntless V-6 engine the heater inlet hose
is connected to the rear of the intake manifold
165
G
COOLING
SYSTEM
and the outlet hose is connected to the water pump
housing.
When installing a new hose, clean the pipe connections and apply a thin layer of nonhardening sealing compound. Hose clamps should be properly
located over the connections to provide secure
fastening. The pressurized cooling system pressure
can blow off improperly installed hoses.
G-8. Cylinder Block
Any coolant leaks at the engine block water joints
are aggravated by pump pressure in the water
jacket and by pressure developed in the cooling
system when the pressure cap is in place. Small
leaks showing up only as moist spots often cannot
be detected when the engine is hot except by the
appearance of rust, corrosion, and dye stains where
leakage evaporated. Also, expansion and contraction of the engine block resulting from extreme
temperature changes can aggravate leaks. For these
reasons, when checking for coolant leaks inspect
the block when it is cold and while the engine is
running.
A leaking drain cock or plug that cannot be stopped
leaking by tightening should be replaced. Leaking
core-hole expansion plugs should be replaced.
If tightening gasketed joints will not correct leakage, install new gaskets. Use a sealing compound
where recommended.
G-9. Thermostat
a. The cooling system of the engine is designed
to provide adequate cooling under most adverse
conditions. However, it is necessary to employ some
device to provide quick warming and to prevent
overcooling during normal operation. Automatic
control of engine operating temperature is provided
by a water flow control thermostat installed in the
water outlet of the Hurricane F 4 engine. The thermostat is a heat-operated valve. It should always
be maintained in working order and the vehicle
should never be driven without one installed as
there would then be no control of engine temperature. The temperature at which the thermostat
opens is preset and cannot be altered.
b. The thermostat on the Hurricane F 4 engine is
located in a housing on the top front of the cylinder
head. On the Dauntless V-6 engine it is located
in the thermostat housing of the air intake manifold.
The standard engine thermostat for the Hurricane
F4 and Dauntless V-6 engine has a normal rating
of 190°F. [ 8 7 . 8 ° C ] and should begin to open at
a coolant temperature between 180°F. [ 8 2 ° C ] to
192°F. [ 8 9 ° C ] and be fully open at 202°F.
[94°C.]. See Fig. G-7 for method of testing.
When the thermostat is not operating properly,
the engine may run too hot or too cold. Overheating
may damage the thermostat so that its valve will
not function properly, and a cold engine will not
achieve full efficiency. Rust can also interfere with
thermostat operation. To test the thermostat, place
it in water heated approximately 25°F. [ 1 7 ° C ]
above the temperature stamped on the thermostat
valve. Submerge the bellows completely and agitate
the water thoroughly. The valve should open fully.
Next, place the thermostat in water heated approxi166
FIG. G-7—THERMOSTAT
TEST
mately 10°F. [ 1 1 ° C ] below the temperature
stamped on the thermostat valve. Submerge the
bellows completely and agitate the water thoroughly. The valve should close completely. If the thermostat fails either of these tests, it should be replaced with a new one of the same type and rating.
G-10. Temperature Sending Unit
The sending unit incorporates a temperature sensing element that when it is surrounded by cold
engine coolant, the unit provides the highest resistance in the temperature gauge indicator circuit.
Resultant low current flow in the circuit causes the
indicator on the instrument panel to read at the
low ( C ) end of the gauge. As engine coolant temperature increases, the resistance of the unit is
decreased allowing an increased current flow in
the circuit, making the instrument panel gauge
register in proportion to the temperature of the
engine coolant.
To test the sending unit, first run the engine until
it has had time enough to warm up.
If no reading is indicated on the gauge, check the
sending unit to gauge wire by removing the wire
from the sending unit and momentarily grounding
the wire. If the gauge now indicates, the sending
unit is faulty. If the gauge still does not indicate,
the wire is defective. Repair or replace the wire,
a. Hurricane F 4 Engine.
The thermo-couple coolant temperature sending
unit is mounted in the right rear of the cylinder
head (Fig. G-8) and is connected by a single wire
to the dash unit of the instrument cluster.
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
The impeller and the pulley hub are pressed on
the shaft under high pressure,
b. Dauntless V-6 Engine.
A centrifugal-type water pump, shown in Fig. G-10,
circulates coolant through the Dauntless V-6 engine
and its cooling system. This pump is mounted on
the timing chain cover. Similar to the engine cooling
fan mounted on its hub, the pump is driven through
a V-belt from the crankshaft pulley.
Coolant enters the water pump at its center. Centrifugal force then forces coolant radially outward,
through vanes of the pump impeller, and backward
through two discharge passages in the timing chain
cover. These passages conduct an equal amount of
coolant to each cylinder bank water jacket. This
water pump has a sealed double row ball bearing
and a ceramic water seal, neither of which can be
serviced. In event of bearing or water seal failure,
the entire water pump assembly must be replaced.
G-l2. Water Pump Inspection
FIG. G-8—TEMPERATURE SENDING
HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
UNIT-
1—Temperature Sending Unit
b. Dauntless V-6 Engine.
The thermo-couple coolant sending unit is mounted
in the left rear area of the intake manifold and is
connected by a single wire to the dash unit of
the instrument cluster.
G-ll.
WATER PUMP
a. Hurricane F 4 Engine.
The water pump on the Hurricane F 4 engine is a
centrifugal impeller type of large capacity to circulate water in the entire cooling system. The
double row ball bearing (Fig. G-9), is integral with
the shaft and is packed at assembly with a special
high melting point grease which will last the life of
the bearing. The bearing is sealed to retain the
lubricant and prevent dirt and dust from entering.
The bearing and shaft are retained in the water
pump body by the bearing retaining wire. The
water seal bears against the ground seat on the
pump body and the inside of the impeller, maintaining a constant pressure against both and preventing
water leakage. A drain hole in the bottom of the
pump body precludes any water seepage past the
seal from entering the bearing.
Check the water pump for leaks, and excessive
end play or looseness of the shaft in the pump. A
quick way to check is to work the fan blades up
and down by hand. If any play is noticed, this
indicates that the bearings are rough. Rough bearings should be checked to see if the water pump
should be replaced or rebuilt.
G-13. Water Pump Disassembly —
Hurricane F4 Engine
• Refer to Fig. G-9.
a. Remove the fan belt, fan blades, and fan pulley.
b. Remove the bolts attaching the water pump
to the block. Remove the pump.
c. Remove the bearing retainer spring.
d. Remove the pump impeller and pulley with a
suitable puller.
e. Remove the pump seal, bearing and shaft, and
bearing slinger.
G-l4.
Water Pump Reassembly —
Hurricane F4 Engine
• Refer to Fig. G-9.
Before assembling the water pump, examine water
seal seat in the pump body and should it be rough,
install a new pump body.
To reassemble the unit, insert the long end of the
shaft into the pump body from the front end until
the outer end of the bearing is flush against the
FIG. G-9—WATER P U M P HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
1—F a n and Pump Pulley
2— Bearing and Shaft
3 — Bearing Retainer Spring
A—Pipe Plug
5— Pump Body
6— Seal Washer
7—Pump Seal
8— Impeller
9— Gasket
167
G
COOLING
SYSTEM
have either a methanol or ethylene glycol base,
and contain corrosion inhibitors. The only antifreeze recommended for the cooling system of
'Jeep' vehicles is ethylene glycol (permanent type).
Methanol base antifreeze evaporates with the water
when the vehicle is operated at warmer temperatures and requires more attention to avoid loss of
protection. Ethylene glycol base antifreeze seldom
evaporates at normal operating temperatures.
Methanol solution is injurious to vehicle finishes.
Should any be spilled on the vehicle, it should be
washed off immediately with a good supply of
cold water without wiping or rubbing. Under ordinary conditions, ethylene glycol is not injurious to
vehicle finishes.
Warning.* Drinking ethylene glycol antifreeze or its
solutions can be harmful or fatal. Do not use antifreeze containers for food or beverages.
12761
FIG. G-10—WATER PUMP—
C R O S S - S E C T I O N A L V I E W — D A U N T L E S S V-6
1— Hub
2——Shaft and Bearing
3— Cover
4— Impeller
5— Ceramic Seal
6— Seal Assembly
front end of the pump body. Position the seal,
washer, and pump seal on shaft flush against the
ground seat in the water pump body. Place the
impeller on an arbor press and press the long end
of the shaft into the impeller until the end of the
shaft is flush with the hub of the impeller. Support
the assembly on the impeller end of the shaft and
press the pulley hub on the shaft until the shaft
end is flush with the pulley hub. Move the shaft
in the pump body to align the retaining wire
grooves in the bearing and pump body and place
the bearing retaining wire in position.
G-l 5. Water Pump Removal and Replacement —
Dauntless V-6 Engine
Drain the cooling system. Remove the fan belt and
remove the cooling fan and pulley from the hub on
the water pump. Disconnect the hoses from the
water pump. Remove the cap screws that secure
the water pump to the timing chain cover; remove
the water pump. Do not disassemble the water
pump; it is serviceable only as an assembly. When
replacing the water pump, torque the water pump
cap screws 6 to 8 lb-ft. [0,829 a 1,106 kg-m.].
G-16. Antifreeze Solutions
When water freezes it expands approximately 9%
in volume. When water, confined in a cooling system, freezes it exerts tremendous pressures causing
serious damage. To prevent freezing, antifreeze can
be added to the water to lower its freezing point.
The two types of antifreeze commonly used today
168
A table in Par. G-2 2 gives the protection obtained
by the addition of various amounts cf ethylene
glycol.
Before installing antifreeze, inspect the cooling system to be sure it is clean, leak-proof, and otherwise
in proper operating condition. Drain the cooling
system, see Par. G-3. Pour in 3 quarts [3 ltr.] of
clean water, add the required quantity of antifreeze, then add clean water to within 1" [2,54 cm.]
of the top of the overflow pipe to allow for expansion when hot. Run the engine until it is warm.
Then recheck the solution level. Check the antifreeze protection with a hydrometer reading.
G-l7. Inhibited Coolant Solutions
All 'Jeep vehicles equipped with either the Hurricane F 4 or Dauntless V-6 engine should use only
inhibited year-round, permanent-type engine coolant solutions that are formulated to withstand two
full calendar years of normal operation without
draining or adding inhibitors. The engine cooling
system should be completely drained and the recommended coolant installed every two years. Befo a installing the permanent-type solution, inspect
the cooling system to be sure it is clean, leakproof,
and in proper operating condition.
5
Note: Water alone, methanol, or alcohol-type antifreeze is definitely not recommended for 'Jeep*
Vehicles.
G-l8. Fan Belt
The fan, water pump, generator or alternator are
driven by a V-belt. The drive of the V-belt is on
the side of the V. A fan belt that is too tight will
cause rapid wear of the alternator or generator and
water pump bearings. If the belt is too loose, it may
slip preventing the water pump from properly cooling the engine or the generator or alternator from
properly charging the electrical circuit. Use fan belt
tension gauge Tool W-283 to properly adjust belt.
The fan belt is properly adjusted when it can be
deflected Vi" [13 mm.] with strong thumb pressure applied midway between the fan and alternator pulleys. Check this adjustment and inspect
the condition of the fan belt at each engine lubri-
'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES S E R V I C E MANUAL
cation period. It is good preventive maintenance to
replace a badly frayed, worn or cracked fan belt
before it breaks in operation.
To replace the fan belt, loosen the attaching bolts
at each generator or alternator brace-to-engine
mounting and pivot the alternator or generator toward the engine to gain slack needed to install the
new belt Remove the old belt. Position the new
belt over the fan pulley, over the crankshaft pulley,
then over the generator or alternator pulley. Pull
the generator or alternator away from the engine
until belt tension is firm. Then tighten the generator
or alternator mounting bolts and check the tension
as indicated above. Reset the generator or alternator
as necessary for correct belt tension. Finally, torque
the generator or alternator mounting bolts 25 to
35 lb-ft. [3,4 a 4,8 kg-m.].
Note: On the Dauntless V-6 engine when adjusting
the fan belt tension, the alternator mounting bolts
should be torqued 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,14 to 5,53
kg-m.]. If a fan belt tension gauge (W-283) is available, proper tension should be 80 pounds [36,2 kg.].
G-l 9. Engine Overheating
An engine will not be damaged by high coolant
temperatures unless the coolant boils. The pressurized cooling system on the 'Jeep' vehicles raises
G
the boiling point of the coolant solution. Should
overheating be encountered, and the fault is believed to be in the cooling system check for the
following:
a. Proper coolant level. See Filling Cooling System Par. G-2.
b. Poor air flow. Check for dirty radiator core.
(See Radiator Par. G-5). Check for faulty belt
pulley operation, worn or loose fan belt, or damaged fan. Clean, repair, replace or adjust as necessary.
c. Foaming coolant. Check for air leaks at water
pump, hose connection and filler cap. Tighten, repair or replace as necessary.
d. Surging or "after boil". Check pressure cap and
replace if valves or gasket are faulty.
e. External leaks. Check the following for leaks:
Hoses and clamps, water pump, radiator, head gasket, core plugs and drain cocks, as well as the cylinder head or block for cracks.
f. Internal leaks. Check for faulty head gasket,
cracked cylinder head or block.
g. Poor coolant flow. Check hose condition, water
pump, fan belt, and repair or replace as necessary.
Inspect block for rust or scale, and clean and flush
the system, if necessary.
h. Check the temperature gauge.
169
G
COOLING SYSTEM
G-20. SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE REMEDY
Overheating:
Lack of Coolant
Thermostat inoperative
Water pump inoperative.
Incorrect ignition or valve timing.
Excessive piston blowby
Fan belt broken or badly worn
Radiator clogged
Air passages in core clogged
Excessive carbon formation.
Muffler clogged or bent exhaust pipe
Loss of Cooling Liquid:
Loose hose connections
Damaged hose
Leaking water pump
Leak in radiator
Leaky cylinder head gasket
Crack in cylinder block.
.
Refill radiator
Replace thermostat
Overhaul or replace
Set engine timing
Check pistons, rings and cylinder walls
Replace belt
Reverse flush and clean
Clean with water and air pressure
Remove carbon from cylinder head(s)
Replace damaged part
Tighten connections
Replace hose
Overhaul or replace
Remove and repair
Replace gasket
Small crack can be closed with
Radiator or Block Sealer
G-21. COOLING S Y S T E M SPECIFICATIONS
HURRICANE
A
l
Radiator C a p :
Relief Pressure
Vacuum Valve Release.
Thermostat:
Rating
Starts to Open
F u l l y Open
Water Pump:
Type.
Drive
Radiator:
Type
Cooling System Capacity:
Without Heater
W i t h Heater..
Fan:
Number of Blades
Diameter
Drive Belt:
Angle of V
Length
Width
DAUNTLESS
F4
V-6
2
7 and 15 psi. [0,5 kg-cm and 1,05 kg cm ]
to 1 psi. [0,04 a 0,07 kg-cm ]
15 psi. [1,05 kg-cm ]
1 psi. [0,07 kg-cm ]
190°F. [87,8°C]
180°F. [ 8 2 ° C ]
202°F. [ 9 4 ° C ]
190°F. [87,8°C]
180°F. [82°C]
202°F. [94°C]
Centrifugal
V-Belt
Centrifugal
V-Belt
2
2
2
2
Tube 8s F i n
Tube & F i n
11 qt. [10,4 ltr.]
12 qt. [11,5 ltr.]
9 qt. [8.5 ltr.]
10 qt. [9,4 ltr.]
4
15" [38 cm.]
b
\S A"
38°
42%" [108 cm.]
[1,74 cmJ
[39,7 cm.]
38°
43.92" [111,5 cm.]
Vg" [0.952 cm.]
G-22. ANTIFREEZE CHERT
Quarts
U.S.
i
m
2
3
4
5
6
2V
3H
2
170
Ethylene Glycol
Liters
10-Quart
2
2%
2H
4M
5
1
m
I
!
1
3H
4M
5
Fahr.
Cent.
16°
4°
-12°
-34°
-62°
- 8.8°
-15.5°
-24.4°
-36.6°
-52.2°
18°
8°
- 6°
-23°
-47°
- 7.6°
-13.3°
-21.1
-30.5°
-43.8°
System
4M
5Vs
5
2
3
4
5
6
2
3
4
5
6
Quarts
Imperial
11-Quart
2
2%
3%
4M
SVs
System
12-Quart
2
2*A
3M
4^
5%
System
1
:
19°
10°
0°
-15°
-34°
:
;
!
;
s
0
- 7.2°
-12.2°
-17.7°
-26.1°
-36.6°
H
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
E L E C T R I C A L SYSTEM
Contents
SUBJECT
GENERAL
Alternator Charging System
Battery. .
Electrical Instruments.
Ignition System
Lighting System
Primary Circuit. ..
Secondary Circuit
SparkPlugs
Starting System
PAR.
.-H-l
H-6, 63
. .H-2
H - l 11
H-3
H-8, 125
H-4
H-5
H-33
H-7, 88
DISTRIBUTOR —
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
H-9
Coil
H-19
Condenser
.H-l 2
Disassembly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .H-16
Distributor Cap
H-10
Distributor Points
H-13
Governor Mechanism
H-l4
Inspection
H-l7
Installation and Timing
H-18
Removal
H-15
Rotor
H-ll
DISTRIBUTOR —
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
Ballast Resistor.
Centrifugal Advance
Cleaning and Inspection
Coil
Condenser
Disassembly.
Distributor Cap
Distributor Points
Installation and Timing. .
Reassembly.
Removal
Rotor
H-20
H-32
H-25
H-28
H-31
H-23
H-27
H-21
H-24
.H-30
H-29
H-2 6
H-2 2
GENERATOR CHARGING
SYSTEM SERVICE
Generator Armature
Generator Assembly.
Generator Brush Holders
Generator Disassembly
Generator Field Coils.
Generator Maintenance
Generator - Current - Voltage Regulator. .
Generator Regulator Quick C h e c k s . . . . . .
Generator Regulator Test Procedure
H-34
H-3 7
H-40
H-39
H-36
H-38
H-35
.H-41
.H-48
H-47
ALTERNATOR PRECAUTIONS.
H-64
A L T E R N A T O R C H A R G I N G S Y S T E M . . .H-63
Alternator On-Vehicle Tests.
.H-67
Alternator Output Test.
.H-70
Isolation Diode Test
H-69
Regulator Test
.H-71
Removal and Installation of
Voltage Regulator.
H-72
SUBJECT
PAR.
Service Diagnosis
Test Equipment
Alternator Field Circuit Test
Brush Insulation and Continuity Test
Brush Removal and Inspection
Rotor In-Vehicle Tests
H-66
H-68
H-73
H-75
H-74
H-76
ALTERNATOR BENCH TESTS.
.H-77
ALTERNATOR REMOVAL
Alternator Disassembly
Alternator Installation.
Assembling Alternator
General Inspection
Diode Test
Out-Of-Circuit Rotor Test.
Out-Of-Circuit Stator Leakage Test.. .
Rotor Tests
Stator Coil Leakage and Continuity Test.
H-78
H-80
H-87
H-86
H-81
H-85
.H-82
H-83
H-79
.H-84
S T A R T I N G M O T O R — P R E S T O L I T E . . .H-92
Armature
. H - l 00
Bench Test
H-l04
Bendix Folo-Thru Drive
H-105
Brush Holder Inspection.
.H-102
Brushes
H-98
Commutator
H-95, 99
Disassembly
H-9 7
Field Coils
H-101
Lubrication of Folo-Thru Drive
H-l06
Maintenance Procedure
H-93
Overhaul Procedure
H-96
Reassembly of Starting Motor. .
H - l 03
Starter Solenoid Switch
H-10 7
Starter Ignition Switch.
.H-89
Wiring. . . .
H-94
S T A R T I N G MOTOR — D E L C O
Armature
Brush Holder Inspection
Brushes
Commutator
Field C o i l s . . . . . . . .
Locked Armature Test. . .
Solenoid Coils
Starting Motor Reassembly
Starting Motor Cleaning and Inspection.
Starting Motor Disassembly
Starting Motor No-Load Test
Starting Motor Test — General
Starter Switch — Solenoid Type.
Starter Ignition Switch.
ELECTRICAL INSTRUMENTS
Testing Instrument Gauges
LIGHTING SYSTEM
Aiming Head Lamps
Backup Lamps
(continued
H-108
H-101
H - l 15
H lll
H-112
H-114
H-l20
H - l 16
H - l 17
. H - l 10
.H-109
H-119
H - l 18
H-l21
.H-89
:
H-122
H-l24
H-l25
H-132
H-135
on next page)
171
H
ELECTRICAL
SUBJECT
SUBJECT
PAR.
Directional Signal Lamps
Hazard Warning Lamps
Head Lamp Replacement
Head Lamp Aiming Procedure
Headlight Dimmer Switch
License Plate Lamp
Main Light Switch.
Marker Lights
Parking and Turn Signal Light
Stop Light Switch.
Tail, Stop and Turn Signal Lamp
H-138
H-139
H-130
H-131
H-127
H-136
H-126
.H-l40
H-133
H-l28
.H-134
H-1. G E N E R A L
All 'Jeep' Universal vehicles are equipped with 12volt electrical systems. Use caution around the
higher voltage of the 12-volt system as accidental
short circuits are more capable of damaging electrical units. Also, arcs around the 12-volt battery are
more apt to ignite any gas that may be escaping
from it. I n the following paragraphs will be found
information about the battery, distributor, coil,
generator, alternator, voltage regulator and starting motor. These units with the connecting wires,
make up the engine electrical system. The wiring
diagram will show the different circuits of the engine electrical system and the various units which
make up those circuits.
With plastic-covered wiring harnesses use only
rubber-insulated wiring clips.
C a u t i o n : All current production vehicles are 12volt, negative ground. Whenever servicing a 12volt electrical system, use caution, as an accidental
short circuit is capable of damaging electrical units.
Disconnect battery ground cable before changing
electrical components.
H-2. Battery
The battery is a storage reservoir for electrical
energy produced by the alternator or generator.
The battery should store sufficient energy for
operation of the entire electrical system when the
alternator or generator is not pr cing output,
such as when the ignition is first turned on. Of
particular importance is maintaining the electrolyte
at the correct level, regularly checking with a
hydrometer, and maintaining clean, tight cable
connections.
Battery service information is given in this section.
1,s
C a u t i o n : Do not allow flames or sparks to be
brought near the vent openings of the battery since
hydrogen gas may be present in the battery and
might explode.
N o t e : The liquid in the battery (electrolyte) is a
solution of sulphuric acid which, on contact, can
injure skin or eyes, or damage clothes. I f it is spilled
on the skin or spattered in the eyes, promptly flush
it away with quantities of clear water only. I f the
acid is spilled on clothes, wet it thoroughly with a
weak solution of ammonia, or with a solution of
sodium bicarbonate or baking soda.
172
SYSTEM
PAR.
HORN
H-137
E L E C T R I C A L COMPONENT
REPLACEMENT
H-150
WINDSHIPLD WIPER
SYSTEM
H-141 thru 149
S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS.
. .H-151
E L E C T R I C A L SPECIFICATIONS
H-152
C a u t i o n : When installing the battery, the negative terminal must be grounded. Reverse polarity of
the battery can cause severe damage to the charging system.
Battery Inspection
a . Check the specific gravity of the electrolyte in
each cell of the battery. A hydrometer reading of
1.260 indicates that the battery is fully charged.
If the reading is 1.225 or below, the battery needs
recharging. I f one or more cells is 25 "points"
(.025) or more lower than the other cells, this indicates that the cell is shorted, the cell is about to
fail, or there is a crack in the battery partition in
the case. Unless the battery is repaired or replaced,
battery trouble will soon be experienced.
b. Check the electrolyte level in each cell, add
distilled water to maintain the solution
[9,5
mm.] above the plates. Avoid overfilling. Replace
the filler caps and tighten securely. I t is important
to keep the electrolyte level above the plates at all
times because plates that are exposed for any
length of time will be seriously damaged.
c. Check the wing nuts on the hold-down frame
for tightness. Tighten them only with finger pressure, never with pliers or a wrench. Excessive
pressure could damage the battery case.
d. Clean the battery terminals and cable connectors. Prepare a strong solution of baking soda
and water and brush it around the terminals to
remove any corrosion that is present. The cell caps
must be tight and their vents sealed to prevent
cleaning solution entering the cells. After cleaning,
connect cables to battery and coat the terminals
with heavy grease.
e. Inspect the battery cables and replace if badly
corroded or frayed. Check tightness of terminal
screws to ensure good electrical connections. Check
the tightness of the negative ground cable connection at the frame to ensure a good ground
connection.
f. Load test the battery. Connect a voltmeter
across the battery. Run the starting motor for
15 seconds. If the voltage does not drop below 10
volts the battery is satisfactory. If the voltage falls
below the figure given, yet the specific gravity is
above 1.225, the condition of the battery is
questionable.
g. Be sure the engine ground strap connection,
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
H-4. P R I M A R Y
H
CIRCUIT
Before testing the primary circuit, make certain
that the battery is satisfactory or install a fully
charged battery for the primary circuit tests. Also,
check the starter motor for excessive voltage drop
and check the starter motor itself for excessive
draw.
a. Measure the voltage at the coil primary terminals while cranking the engine with the starter
motor. If the voltage is less than 9 volts the trouble
will be found in the primary circuit. If there is no
voltage at all, check for a break in the primary
circuit, possibly in the coil primary winding.
b. To check the primary circuit, turn the ignition
on, turn the engine until the points are closed, and
then measure the voltage drop across each portion
of the circuit with a voltmeter.
FIG.
H-l—ENGINE
GROUND
STRAP—F4
ENGINE
Fig. H - l , is tight at both connections. If these
connections are loose - or dirty, hard starting or
failure to start may result.
H-3. Ignition System
The ignition system consists of the battery, ignition
switch, ignition coil ballast resistor (V-6 engine
only), ignition coil, ignition distributor, spark plugs,
and the low and high tension wiring. Electrical
energy is obtained from the battery while cranking
and from the alternator after the engine is running.
These supply circuits must be considered part of
the ignition system.
The ignition system furnishes the spark -for the
spark plugs. The spark must occur in each cylinder
at exactly the proper time. To accomplish this, the
following units are required.
a. The battery, supplying the electrical energy.
Note: 'Jeep* vehicles equipped with Dauntless
V-6 engines have a ballast resistor connected between the ignition switch and the positive ( + )
terminal of the coil. The ballast resistor limits to
a safe maximum the primary current flow through
the coil and the distributor contact points.
b. The ignition coil, transforming the battery low
tension current to high tension current that jumps
the spark plug gap in the cylinders under compression.
c. The distributor, delivering the spark to the
proper cylinders and incorporates the mechanical
breaker, that opens and closes the primary circuit
at the exact time.
d. The spark plugs, providing the gap in the engine
cylinders.
e. The wiring, connecting the various ignition
units.
f. The ignition switch controling the battery
current when it is desired to start or stop the engine.
g. The firing order for the Hurricane F4 engine is
1-3-4-2. Cylinder No. 1 is the cylinder closest to the
radiator.
h. The firing order for the Dauntless V-6 engine
is 1-6-5-4-3-2. Cylinders 1-3-5 are on the left bank
and cylinders 2-4-6 are on the right bank.
Note: Most voltage drops will be found at the connections of wires to terminals as dirt, oxidation
etc. can cause excessive resistance at these points.
Measure voltage drops in wires to take this into
account.
c. Connect the voltmeter from the battery cable
terminal on the starter solenoid to the battery
terminal of the coil primary. If the voltmeter reads
more than 0.2 volt, perform the checks given in
steps, d, e, and f following.
d. Connect the voltmeter from the solenoid terminal to the battery terminal of the ignition switch.
If the voltmeter reads more than .05 volt, check
and clean the connections at solenoid, light switch,
and ignition switch.
e. I f the voltmeter reading in step d is less than
.05 volt, connect the voltmeter from the battery
terminal to the ignition terminal on the ignition
switch. If the voltage drop is more than 0.1 volt,
repair or replace the ignition switch.
f. If the voltage drop in step e is not more than
0.1 volt, connect the voltmeter from the ignition
terminal of the ignition switch to the battery terminal of the coil primary. If the voltmeter reads more
than .05 volt, clean and tighten the connections
and check again. If the voltmeter again reads more
than .05 volt, replace the wire.
g. Connect the voltmeter from the distributor
primary terminal on the coil to the coil terminal on
the distributor. Voltage drop should not exceed .05
volt. Clean and tighten connections if necessary.
h. Connect the voltmeter from the coil terminal
on the distributor to a clean, paint- free spot on the
distributor body. The reading should not exceed .05
volt. If more, it indicates excessive resistance
through the points or in the distributor internal
connections. Clean and align the points and make
sure the breaker arm connection to the primary
terminal as well as the stationary contact point
mounting in the body is clean and tight.
i. Open the points and check the voltmeter. It
should read close to peak voltage. Low voltage indicates that a circuit through the distributor (a
short) exists while the points are open.
j . Disconnect the condenser lead and open the
points. A jump to full voltage indicates a short in
173
H
ELECTRICAL
the condenser. Replace the condenser. If there is
no jump to full voltage, overhaul or replace the
distributor.
k. With the points closed, connect the voltmeter
from a clean, paint-free post on the distributor
body to the negative post of the battery. The voltage drop should be practically zero, a hardly
readable deflection on the voltmeter. I f the voltmeter registers a voltage drop, perform the checks
in steps 1 and m following.
I. Check for voltage drop in the battery ground
cable. Clean the battery post, cable terminals, and
contact surface on the bellhousing, or on body if
a noticeable deflection of the voltmeter occurs,
m. Check for any voltage drop between the distributor body and a clean, paint-free spot on the
cylinder block. If there is any voltage drop, remove
the distributor and clean the mounting surfaces of
distributor body and cylinder block.
H-5. S E C O N D A R Y C I R C U I T
If satisfactory ignition is not obtainable with correct point gap and tension; satisfactory condenser;
sufficient primary voltage; and correctly cleaned,
gapped, and installed spark plugs; the secondary
circiut should be investigated.
a. Test the coil. Bring the coil up to operating
temperature using the coil heat feature of a coil
tester, if available. Refer to the coil tester manufacturer's instructions for specific hook-ups for
performing the checks given in steps b, c, and d
following.
b. Connect the positive lead of the tester to the
battery terminal of the coil primary winding. Connect the tester ground lead to the coil tower. Measure the resistance of the secondary winding. If the
resistance is more than 20,000 ohms, a fault in the
secondary winding is indicated.
c. Check for a grounded secondary by touching
the tester ground lead to the coil cover. If resistance
is not over 100,000 ohms, the secondary is grounded
to the cover.
d. If the secondary winding is satisfactory, measure the primary current draw in accordance with
the instructions of the test equipment manufacturer.
e. Check the secondary circuit for leakage. With
the coil primary in the circuit with the breaker unit
of the tester, connect a long, high-tension test lead
to the coil tower. Check the secondary circuit for
leakage by performing the checks given in steps
f. g, h, and i following.
Note: In the following tests, a slight sparking and
meter deflection will usually be seen just as contact
is made. This is caused by capacitance and does not
indicate defective insulation.
f. Check distributor cap. Remove the coil lead from
the cap and touch the test lead to the center contact
inside the cap. I f the meter reading drops when the
contact is touched or if sparking is seen, a leakage
path is present between the center contact and one
of the plug towers. This leakage path will be in the
form of a crack or carbon track in the cap. Discon174
SYSTEM
nect the spark plug wires from the cap one at a
time and test each plug contact with the highvoltage lead and with all other plug wires connected. Any sparking or meter drop indicates that
a leakage path exists between that particular contact and an adjacent one. Testing the adjacent
contacts will determine which pair is at fault,
g- Check distributor rotor. Touch the test lead to
the spring contact in the center of the distributor
rotor. Any leakage in the rotor insulation between
the contact and the shaft will cause a drop in the
meter reading and usually sparking will be seen.
h. Check spark plug wires. Disconnect the spark
plug wires from the plugs and test the plug terminal
of each. The meter reading should not drop below
the open secondary value (value before making
contact). If it does or if a large spark occurs when
the test lead and the plug wire are separated, there
is a break in the insulation on that wire.
i. Check the coil tower insulation. Remove the
high-tension test lead from the coil tower and touch
the ground lead of the coil tester to several points
around the base of the tower. Any sparking or
deflection of the meter indicates a leakage path in
the tower insulation.
H-6. Alternator Charging System
All Jeep Universal Series vehicles have, as standard
equipment a 35-amp., 12-volt, negative ground
alternator and a transistorized voltage regulator.
For repairing the alternator, many of its major
components are furnished as complete assemblies
including: complete brush assembly which requires
no soldering or unsoldering of leads; two complete
rectifying diode assemblies which eliminate the
need for removing and replacing individual diodes;
a complete isolation diode assembly; and a rotor
assembly complete with shaft, pole pieces, field coil,
and slip rings.
The transistorized voltage regulator is an electronic
switching device. I t senses the voltage appearing
at the auxiliary terminal of the alternator and
supplies the necessary field current for maintaining
the system voltage at the output terminal. The output current is determined by the battery electrical
load; such as headlights, heater, etc.
The transistorized voltage regulator is a sealed unit,
has no adjustments, and must be replaced as a
complete unit.
H-7. Starting System
The operation of the starter motor is controlled by
the ignition switch. The starter is made up of a
frame, field coil, armature, and brushes.
The starter solenoid electrically closes the circuit
between the battery and the starter motor. When
the ignition key is turned to its extreme right, the
solenoid is energized and closes the battery-tostarter-motor circuit.
Note: All Jeep Universal Series vehicles have the
starter solenoid switch secured to the starter motor
assembly. The Hurricane F 4 and Dauntless V-6
engine Prestolite starter drive is of the inertia type
(rexr continued on page 176)
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
H
11514
F I G . H - 2 — W I R I N G D I A G R A M — M O D E L CJ-3B
(Serial No. 35522 and after)
1—Left Headlamp
2— Left Parking and Signal Lamp
3— Right Parking and Signal Lamp
4— Right Headlamp
5—Battery Ground Strap
6— Generator
7— Ignition Coil
8—Junction Block
9— Horn
10— Distributor
11— Battery
12—Voltage Regulator
13— Starting Motor
14— Oil Pressure Signal Switch
15— Temperature Sending Unit
16—Solenoid Switch
17— Foot Dimmer Switch
18— Stop Light Switch
19— Directional Signal Flasher
20— Fuse
21— Light Switch
22— Directional Signal Switch
23— Horn Button
24—Ignition and Starter Switch
25—Instrument Cluster
A—Upper Beam Indicator
B — T u r n Signal Indicator
C—Instrument Lights
D—Oil Pressure Indicator
E—Charging Indicator
F—Temperature Gauge
G—Fuel Gauge
H—Instrument Voltage Regulator
25—Fuel Gauge T a n k Unit
27—Left Tail and Stop L a m p
28—Right Tail and Stop Lamp
175
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
11474
F I G . H - 3 — W I R I N G D I A G R A M — M O D E L S CJ-5, CJ-6, DJ-5 A N D DJ-6—F4 E N G I N E
(Model C J - 5 after Serial No. 49248, Model C J - 6 after Serial No. 12577)
1— Left Headlamp
2—Left Parking and Directional Lamp
3—Right Parking and Directional Lamp
4—Right Headlamp
5— Battery Ground Cable
6—Generator
7— Distributor
8—Ignition Coil
9— Starting Motor
10—Voltage Regulator
11—Instrument Cluster
A—Upper Beam Indicator
B — T u r n Signal Indicator
C—Instrument Lights
D — O i l Pressure Indicator
E—Charging Indicator
F—Temperature Gauge
G — F u e l Gauge
H—Instrument Voltage Regulator
12—Right Tail and Stop L a m p
13—Left Tail and Stop Lamp
14—Fuel Gauge Tank Unit
15—Ignition and Starter Switch
16—Horn Button
whereas the Dauntless V-6 engine Delco starter
drive is of the clutch type.
The starter circuit is opened when the ignition key
is allowed to return to the "Ignition On" position.
No repairs or adjustments can be made to the
176
17—Directional Signal Switch
18—Light Switch
19—Stop Light Switch
20—Foot Dimmer Switch
21—Directional Signal Flasher
22—Fuse
23—Solenoid Switch
24—Temperature Sending Unit
25—Oil Pressure Signal Switch
26—Horn
27—Junction Block
ignition switch. If trouble develops in this switch,
it must be replaced.
The ignition switch serves both to energize the
ignition system and also to engage the starter solemiod switch. With the key in the vertical position,
the electrical system is off. This is the only position
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
H
12968
F I G . H - 4 — W I R I N G D I A G R A M — M O D E L S CJ-5, CJ-6, DJ-5, DJ-6 L A T E F 4 E N G I N E
1— Left Headlamp
2—Left Parking and Signal Lamp
3— Right Parking and Signal Lamp
4— Right Headlamp
5— Generator
6— Ignition Distributor
7—Oil Pressure Sending Unit
8—Junction Block
9— Horn
10— Foot Dimmer Switch
11— Stop Light Switch — Front
12— Temperature Sending Unit
13—Ignition Coil
14—Starting Motor
15— Battery Ground Cable
16— Battery
17—Voltage Regulator
18— Fuse
19— Instrument Cluster
A—Hi-Beam Indicator
B—Auxiliary
C—Instrument Lights
D—Oil Pressure Indicator
E—Charging Indicator
F—Temperature Indicator
G—Fuel Gauge
H—Instrument Voltage Regulator
20— Ignition and Starter Switch
in which the key can be removed. Turning the key
to the left energizes auxiliary equipment such as
windshield wipers, radio, and heater. The turn
signal lights will operate with the ignition key in
either the left or right position. The ignition switch
is held in position by a tension spring on the back
of the instrument panel and a notched bezel on
the front of the instrument panel.
21— Flashei (Directional Signal)
22—Horn Button
23— Directional Signal Switch
24— 4-Way Flasher Switch
25— Flasher (4-Way)
26—Fuse
27— Main Light Switch
28— Stop Light Switch — Rear
29— Fuel Gauge Tank Unit
30—Back-Up Light Switch
31— Right Tail and Stop Lamp
32—Right Back-Up Lamp
33— Left Back-Up Lamp
34—Left Tail and Stop Lamp
H-8. Lighting System
The wiring for the lighting system is shown in the
wiring diagrams, Figs. H-2 thru H-7 of the manual,
which indicate the various units in relation to their
position in the vehicle. The lighting circuit is protected by an overload circuit breaker mounted on
the rear of the light switch.
The main light switch controls the lighting system
177
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
14365
FIG. H-5—WIRING DIAGRAM—F4 E N G I N E C U R R E N T
1— Left Headlamp
2— Left Parking and Signal Lamp
3— R i g h t Parking and Signal Lamp
4— R i g h t Headlamp
5— Marker Lamp — Amber
6— Generator
7— Distributor
8— I g n i t i o n Coil
9— Starting M o t o r
10— Battery Ground Cable
1 1 — 12 V o l t B a t t e r y
12— Flasher (Directional Signal)
13— I n s t r u m e n t Cluster
A — H i - B e a m Indicator
B—Auxiliary
C—Instrument Lights
D — O i l Pressure Indicator
E—Charging Indicator
F—Temperature Indicator
G—Fuel Gauge Indicator
H — I n s t r u m e n t Voltage Regulator
14— I g n i t i o n and Starter Switch
15— H o r n B u t t o n
16— Directional Signal Switch
17— 4-Way Flasher Switch
18— Flasher ( 4 - W a y )
19— Windshield Wiper M o t o r Switch
20— M a i n L i g h t Switch
2 1 — Fuel Gauge T a n k U n i t
22— Back-Up L i g h t Switch
23— Marker L a m p — Red
through a two-position push-pull switch located on
the left side of the control panel.
The foot-operated headlight dimmer switch is
mounted on the floorboard to the left of the steering
column.
H-9. P R E S T O L I T E D I S T R I B U T O R —
D A U N T L E S S V-6 a n d
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
The Prestolite distributor on the F 4 engine is
mounted on the right side of the engine and is operated by a coupling on the oil pump shaft, see Fig.
D - l , which is driven by a spiral gear on the camshaft. The spark advance is fully automatic, being
controlled by built-in centrifugal weights. The Prestolite distributor on the V-6 engine (Fig. H-8) is
mounted at the left front of the engine on the timing chain cover. It is driven by a spiral gear on the
camshaft. The spark advance is fully automatic,
being controlled by built-in centrifugal weights,
and by a vacuum advance system. While some
parts of the distributor may be checked or replaced
with the unit mounted on the engine, it is best to
periodically remove it for a thorough check. Infor178
MODEL
24—Right Tail and Stop Lamp
25— Right Back-Up L a m p
26— Left Back-Up Lamp
27—R i g h t T a i l and Stop L a m p
28— Marker L a m p — Red
29— Stop L i g h t Switch
30— Foot Dimmer Switch
3 1 — Windshield Wiper M o t o r Assembly
32— Voltage Regulator
33— Temperature Sending U n i t
34— Oil Pressure Sending U n i t
3 5 —Spark Plugs & Cables
36— H o r n
3 7 — Junction Block
3 8 — Marker Lamp — Amber
mation covering the parts which can be serviced
without removal is given below.
The Prestolite distributor installed on the V-6 engine is similar in construction to the distributor installed on the F4 engines except for the addition of
a vacuum advance mechanism.
The same checking procedures outlined in Par. C 10a, are used for the Prestolite V-6 distributor with
exception of specifications.
H-10. Distributor C a p
The distributor cap should be inspected for cracks,
carbon runners and evidence of arcing. If any of
these conditions exists, the cap should be replaced.
Clean any corroded high tension terminals.
H-11. Rotor
Inspect the rotor for cracks or evidence of excessive
burning at the end of the metal strip.
After a distributor rotor has had normal use the
end of the rotor will become burned. If burning is
found on top of the rotor it indicates the rotor is
too short and needs replacing. Usually when this
condition is found the distributor cap segment will
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
H
12967
F I G . H - 6 — W I R I N G D I A G R A M — L A T E V6 E N G I N E
1—Left Headlamp
2—Left Parking and Signal Lamp
3— Right Parking and Signal Lamp
4 — R i g h t Headlamp
5— Voltage Regulator
6—Alternator
7—Oil Pressure Sender
8—Temperature Sender
9—I g n i t i o n Distributor
10—Junction Block
11— Horn
12— I g n i t i o n Coil
13—Starting M o t o r
14—B a t t e r y Ground Cable
15— Foot Dimmer Switch
16— Stop L i g h t Switch — F r o n t
17—Ballast
18— Flasher (Directional Signal)
19— Fuse
20— Instrument Cluster
A — H i - B e a m Indicator
B—Auxiliary
C—Instrument Lights
D — O i l Pressure Indicator
E—Charging Indicator
F—Temperature Indicator
G—Fuel Gauge
H — I n s t r u m e n t Voltage Regulator
be burned on the horizontal face and the cap will
also need replacing.
H-12. Condenser
The condenser prolongs the life of the distributor
points by preventing arcing at the contacts. It also
21- - I g n i t i o n and Starter Switch
22- - H o r n B u t t o n
23- -Directional Signal Switch
24- -4-Way Flasher Switch
25- -Flasher (4-Way)
26- -Fuse
27- - M a i n L i g h t Switch
28- -Stop L i g h t Switch — Rear
29- -Fuel Gauge T a n k U n i t
30- -Back-Up L i g h t Switch
31- - R i g h t T a i l and Stop L a m p
32- - R i g h t Back-Up L a m p
33- - L e f t Back-Up L a m p
34- - L e f t Tail and Stop Lamp
provides a hotter spark by creating a reverse surge
of current which rapidly breaks down the magnetic
field of the coil by demagnetizing the core. Should
the condenser be leaky, a weak spark will result.
Check the condenser lead for broken wires or
frayed insulation. Clean and tighten the connec179
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
ffKHs)
3
FIG. H-7—WIRING DIAGRAM—V6 E N G I N E CURRENT
1— Left Headlamp
2—Left Parking and Signal Lamp
3—Right Parking and Signal L a m p
4—Right Headlamp
5—Marker Lamp — Amber
6— Alternator
7—Voltage Regulator
8—Starting Motor
9—Battery Ground Cable
10— 12 Volt Battery
11—Flasher (Directional Signal)
12— Instrument Cluster
A—Hi-Beam Indicator
B—Auxiliary
C—Instrument Lights
D — O i l Pressure Indicator
E—Charging Indicator
F—Temperature Indicator
G — F u e l Gauge Indicator
H—Instrument Voltage Regulator
13— Ignition and Starter Switch
14— Horn Button
15— Directional Signal Switch
16— 4-Way Flasher Switch
17— Flasher (4-Way)
18— Windshield Wiper Motor Switch
19— Main Light Switch
20— Fuel Gauge T a n k Unit
21— Back-Up Light Switch
22— Marker L a m p — Red
23— Right Tail and Stop Light
lions on the terminal posts. Be sure condenser is
mounted firmly on the distributor for a good ground
connection.
Should a condenser tester be available the capacity
for both F 4 and Prestolite V6 condenser should
check from .25 to .28 microfarads. I n the absence
of tester, check by substituting a new condenser.
H-13. Distributor Points
a. Examine the distributor points. I f they show
wear, poor mating, transferred metal, or pitting,
then new ones should be installed. Clean the points
with a suitable solvent and a stiff bristled brush.
b. Check the alignment of the point for a full,
square contact. If not correctly aligned, bend the
stationary contact bracket slightly to provide alignment.
c. The contact gap should be set at .020" [0,508
mm.], on the F4 and .016" [0,406 mm.] on the
Prestolite V6. Adjustment of the gap is accomplished by loosening the lock screw and turning
180
—<§)
MODEL
24— Right Back-Up L a m p
25—Left Back-Up L a m p
26— Left Tail and Stop Light
27— Marker L a m p — Red
28— Stop Light Switch
29— Foot Dimmer Switch
30— Windshield Wiper Motor Assembly
31—Ballast Resistor
32— Ignition Coil
33— Spark Plugs and Cables
34—Temperature Sending Unit
35—Oil Pressure Sending Unit
36— Horn
37—Junction Block
38— Marker L a m p — Amber
adjusting eccentric screw until correct gap is
secured. Be sure that the fiber block on the breaker
arm is resting on the highest point on the cam while
the adjustment is being made. Recheck the gap
after locking the adjustment.
d. Apply a thin film of cam lubricant to the cam
to lessen fiber block wear.
e. Using Tool C-4094, check point contact spring
pressure, which should be between 17 and 20
ounces [0,487 a 0,567 kg.] on the F4 and 17 to
22 oz. [0,487 a 0,624 kg.] on the Prestolite V6.
Check with a spring scale hooked on the breaker
arm at the contact and pull at right angle to the
breaker arm. Make the reading just as the points
separate. Adjust the point pressure by loosening
the stud holding the end of the contact arm spring
and slide the end of the spring in or out as necessary. Retighten the stud and recheck the pressure.
Too low a- pressure will cause engine missing at
high speeds. Too high a pressure will cause rapid
wear of the cam, block, and points.
H
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
12955
FIG.
H - 8 — P R E S T O L I T E D I S T R I B U T O R — D A U N T L E S S V-6
1— Cap
2— Rotor
3— Lubricating Wick
4— Snap Ring
5— Condenser
6— Contact Set
7— Breaker Plate
8— Cam and Stop Plate
9— Spring (2)
10— Governor Weight
11— Cam Spacer
12— Gear
H-14. Governor Mechanism
The centrifugal advance mechanism consists of
an automatic cam actuated by two spring controlled centrifugal weights. As the speed of the
distributor shaft increases with engine speed, the
weights are thrown outward against the pull of the
springs. This advances the cam causing the contact
points to open earlier and thus advancing the
spark. The centrifugal type governor should be
checked for free operation. Hold the governor shaft
and turn the cam to the left as far as possible
and release it. The cam should immediately return
to the original position without drag.
Should a distributor test fixture be available it is
best to make a check through the entire advance
range, following the instructions of the fixture
manufacturer.
The vacuum control unit is mounted separately
on the outside of the distributor housing on the
V6 Prestolite distributor.
The vacuum control unit consists of an enclosed
spring-loaded diaphragm linked mechanically to
the distributor. The air-tight side of the diaphragm
is connected to the intake manifold side of the
carburetor. Under part throttle operation, the intake manifold vacuum is sufficient to actuate the
diaphragm and cause the distributor to rotate in
its mount, thus advancing the spark and increasing
fuel economy. During acceleration or when the
13— Gear Pin
14—Washer
15— O-Ring Seal
16—Bushing
17— Distributor Housing
18—Vacuum Chamber
ENGINE
19— Washer (Nylon)
20——Cap Clamp and Rings
21——Primary Lead
22— Washer (outer upper,
23— Washer (inner upper)
2".—Drive Shaft
engine is pulling heavily, the vacuum is not sufficient to actuate the diaphragm and the distributor
is held in the retarded position by a calibrated
return spring which bears against the vacuum
diaphragm.
H-15. Distributor Removal
a. Remove high-tension wires from the distributor
cap terminal towers, noting the order in which they
are assembled to ensure correct reassembly.
b. Remove the primary lead from the terminal
post at the coil.
c. Unlatch the two distributor cap springs and remove the cap.
d. Note the position of the rotor in relation to the
base. This should be remembered to facilitate reinstalling and timing.
e. Remove the screw holding the distributor to the
crankcase and lift the assembly from the engine.
H-16. Prestolite Distributor Disassembly
Refer to Fig. H-8 and H-9.
a. Remove the rotor.
b. Remove the condenser.
c. Remove the distributor points.
d. Remove nylon washer attaching vacuum advance arm to breaker plate, V6 only. Remove two
181
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
bearing before installing the drive shaft. Refer
to Fig. H-8 item 16.
At assembly, apply a film of grease to the upper
drive shaft washer and put a small amount of
grease in the bearing bore just above the bearings.
Lubricate the governor mechanism sparingly with
medium grade engine oil in the oiler mounted on
the side of the housing and 5 drops on the left
located in the center opening of the cam directly
below the rotor. Place a very light smear of grease
on the cam and 1 drop of oil on the breaker arm
pivot.
Before installing the distributor, check the friction
spring mounted on the lower end of the drive shaft
and replace it if worn or damaged.
Inspect rod end of vacuum advance mechanism
for excessive wear. Push rod into unit as far as
possible, hold finger tightly over nipple, then
release rod. After about 15 seconds, remove finger
from nipple, and notice if air is drawn into unit.
If not, diaphragm is leaking and unit must be
replaced.
FIG.
H-9—DISTRIBUTOR
ASSEMBLYH U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
1— Cap
2— Rotor
3— Primary Wire
4—Breaker Plate
5— Governor Weights
6—Advance Plate Lock Screw
7—Oiler and Felt Wick
8—Drive Shaft
9—Drive Shaft Collar and Thrust Washer
attaching screws; remove vacuum advance unit
from housing.
e. Remove the two clamp hinge to breaker plate
screws; remove breaker plate from housing.
f. Remove the shaft assembly. To do this, file off
the upset end of the pin which is placed through
the collar and shaft at the lower end of the housing
and drive out the pin with a suitable punch. Remove the collar and washer. Pull the shaft from
the housing.
g. Should it be necessary to remove the cam assembly, first remove the felt wick from the upper
end. Use long-nose pliers to compress and remove
the spring locking clip located at the bottom of the
drilled center opening of the cam. Remove the cam.
H-17. Distributor Inspection
If the shaft and bearings are worn sufficiently
to allow .005" or more looseness of the shaft, they
must be replaced. Before installing new bearings,
soak them in medium grade engine oil and allow
them to drain. Wipe all oil from the upper part of
the housing.
Important: After new bearing installation, drill a
y%" [3,2 mm.] lubrication hole through the upper
182
H-18. Installation and Ignition T i m i n g
If the engine crankshaft has been rotated, with the
distributor off, it will be necessary to place No. 1
piston in firing position to correctly install the
distributor. Refer to Pars. C-10 and C - l l .
Oil the distributor housing where it bears in the
cylinder block and install the distributor on the
cylinder block. Mount the rotor on distributor shaft
and turn the shaft until the rotor points towards
No. 1 spark terminal tower position (when cap is
installed) with the contact points just breaking.
Move the rotor back and forth slightly until the
driving lug on the end of the shaft enters the slot
cut in the oil pump gear and slide the distributor
assembly down into place. Rotate the distributor
body until the contact points are just breaking.
Install the hold down screw.
H-19. Ignition Coil — F4 Engine
The sealed coil does not require any special service
other than keeping the terminals and wire connection clean and tight.
The positive ( + ) terminal of the coil is connected
to the ignition switch and is also connected directly
to the starter solenoid to by-pass the resistance
during cranking of engine.
The negative (—) terminal is connected to the
distributor. The secondary (High tension) terminal
is connected by a short cable to the center terminal
in the distributor cap.
Note: Always make certain the coil wires are connected to the proper coil terminals to ensure correct coil polarity.
H-20.
DELCO DISTRIBUTOR —
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
The distributor (Fig. H-10) is mounted at the left
front of the engine on the timing chain cover. It
is driven by a spiral gear on the camshaft. The
spark advance is fully automatic, being controlled
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L SERIES S E R V I C E M A N U A L
H
H-23. Condenser
The condenser prolongs the life of the distributor
points by preventing arcing at the contacts. I t also
provides a hotter spark by creating a reverse surge
of current which rapidly breaks down the magnetic
field of the coil by demagnetizing the core. Should
the ccnaenser be leaky a weak spark will result.
Check the condenser lead for broken wires or
frayed insulation. Clean and tighten the connections
on the terminal posts. Be sure the condenser is
mounted firmly on the distributor for a good ground
connection.
Should a condenser tester be available the capacity
should check from .18 to .23 microfarads. I n the
absence of a tester check by substituting new condenser.
H-24. Distributor Points
a- Examine distributor points. Using Tool C-4094,
check point contact spring pressure, should be
19 to 23 oz. [0,538 a 0,652 kg.]. Install new points
if they are worn, pitted, mate poorly, or show signs
of metal transfer. Should premature ignition point
failure occur because of dust entering the distributor cap and causing excessive wear to the ignition
point fiber block, perform the following corrections after installing new distributor points.
|
13399
F I G . H-10—DELCO DISTRIBUTOR—
DAUNTLESS V-6 E N G I N E
1 — Rotor
2— Window
3—A l l Weather Cap
4 — Cap L a t c h
5 — Rotor M o u n t i n g Screw
6—Lock Washer
7— Advance Mechanism
8—Vacuum U n i t
9—Breaker Cam
10—Drive Gear
11—Primary Lead
12—Contact Set
13—Condenser
by built-in centrifugal weights, and by a vacuum
advance system. Contact point opening is adjusted
through a window i n the distributor cap while the
engine is idling. Some parts of the distributor may
be checked or replaced with the distributor mounted on the engine, but i t is best to remove i t periodically for a thorough check. Information on parts
which can be serviced without removal is given
below.
Note: Prestolite and Delco distributors are interchangeable on V-6 engine equipped vehicles.
H-21. Distributor Cap
The distributor cap should be inspected for cracks,
carbon runners and evidence of arcing. I f any of
these conditions exist, the cap should be replaced.
Clean any corroded high tension terminals.
H-22. Rotor
Inspect the rotor for cracks or evidence of excessive burning at the end of the metal strip.
After a distributor rotor has had normal use, the
end of the rotor will become burned. I f burning is
found on top of the rotor i t indicates the rotor is
too short and needs replacing. Usually when this
condition is found the distributor cap segment will
be burned on the horizontal face and the cap will
also need replacing.
F I G . H-l 1—SEALING DISTRIBUTOR CAP
1—Caulking Compound
183
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
b. To adjust breaker point cam dwell, refer to
Par. C-10.
H-25. Centrifugal Advance
Refer to Fig. H-13.
Inspect for excessive wear between centrifugal
weights and advance cam, or pivot pins. Turn
weight base plate in a clockwise direction until
weights are fully extended, then release and allow
springs to return to retard position. Repeat several
times. Springs should return weights to stop without sticking and there should be no excess free
movement in the retard position.
H-26. Distributor Removal
a. Disconnect the distributor primary wire from
coil and disconnect hose from vacuum advance
mechanism of distributor. Insert a screwdriver in
upper slotted end of two distributor cap retainers.
Press downward, and turn 90 degrees counterclockwise to release. Remove cap from distributor housing.
b. Make an index mark on distributor housing
(Fig. H-14) in line with center of rotor. Carefully
note the direction the vacuum unit points in relation to engine so that the distributor can be installed in the same position after it is serviced.
C a u t i o n : If engine is turned over while distributor
is removed, complete ignition timing procedure
must be followed upon distributor installation.
14237
FIG. H-l2—DRILLING DISTRIBUTOR CAP
1—%' Vent Hole Location
Seal the distributor cap access window and the
area beneath the distributor cap with caulking
compound as shown in Fig. H - l l . At approximately
180° from the distributor cap access window, drill
a
[2,38 mm.] vent hole
[31,75 mm.]
from the bottom of the distributor cap as shown
in Fig. H - l 2 .
FIG. H-13—CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE
MECHANISM (DELCO)
A — N o Advance
1—Advance Weights
2— Advance C a m
184
B — F u l l Advance
3—Full Advance
c. Remove attaching cap screw and distributor
clamp from timing chain cover. Lift distributor upward and remove it from timing chain cover.
H-27. Distributor Disassembly (Delco)
Refer to Fig. H - l 5 .
a. Remove rotor, breaker point assembly, and
capacitor from distributor.
FIG. H-14—DELCO DISTRIBUTOR
ROTOR POSITION
1 —Rotor T i p Lined U p With Notch
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
H
FIG. H-l 5 - D E L C O
DISTRIBUTOR—
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
1— Cap Assembly
2— Rotor
3 —Governor Weight
4— Rotor M o u n t i n g Screw
5— Lock Washer
6— Weight Spring (Governor)
7— Shaft
8— Cam Assembly
9 — Gear Pin
10— Drive Gear
11— Spacer Washer
12— Housing
13— Vacuum Control
14— Lock Washer
15— Control M o u n t i n g Screw
16— Primary Lead
17— Lead Gromet
18— Washer
19— Breaker Plate
20— Condenser
21— Retaining Spring
22— Ground Lead
23— Condenser C l s m p
24— Contact Set
25— Clamp Screw
26— Lock Washer
27— Contact Screw
28— Insulator
29— Spring Clip
30— Screw
13400
b. Remove and discard O-ring seal from distributor
housing.
c. Remove two attaching screws; remove vacuum
advance from housing.
d . Drive pin from driven gear and shaft, using a
y%" [3,2 mm.] straight punch. See Fig. H-l6.
C a u t i o n : Be careful not to bend distributor shaft
or damage gear when driving pin out.
e. Remove gear and thrust washer from shaft; pull
the shaft, breaker cam, and centrifugal advance
mechanism from the housing.
f. Remove two springs and centrifugal advance
weights from the integral weight base plate and
breaker cam. Remove plate from end of shaft.
g. Remove retainer breaker plate, and felt washer
from upper bushing.
N o t e : Lubricant reservoir contains sufficient lubricant for the life of the distributor. Do not move
plastic reservoir cover from housing. Do not degrease bore of housing.
h. Remove distributor primary lead and grommet
from housing.
C a u t i o n : Do not attempt to replace the shaft
bushings in the housing; the housing and bushings
are serviced only as an assembly.
H-28.
FIG. H-l6—DISTRIBUTOR GEAR AND
SHAFT PIN REMOVAL (DELCO)
1— H' Punch
2—Spring Pin
Distributor Parts Cleaning a n d
Inspection
a . Wash the distributor housing, shaft, gear, breaker plate, and weight base and cam in suitable cleaning solvent. Hold housing in horizontal position to
avoid getting cleaning solvent into the lubricant
reservoir. Dry parts thoroughly.
b. Wipe distributor cap with a clean cloth. Inspect
it for chips, cracks, and carbonized paths which
would allow high-voltage leakage. Such defects require replacement of cap. Clean loose corrosion
from surfaces of terminal segments inside the cap.
Do not use emery cloth or sandpaper. If segments
are deeply grooved, the cap should be replaced.
Pull cables from terminal sockets and inspect
sockets for corrosion. Clean sockets, using a stiff
wire brush to loosen corrosion.
c. Inspect rotor for wear and damage. I f rotor is
cracked, spring contact is badly worn, or rotor tip
is badly burned, rotor must be replaced.
185
ELECTRICALJ SYSTEM
d. Inspect for excessive wear between centrifugal
weights and advance cam and pivot pins. Turn
weight base plate i n a clockwise direction until
weights are fully extended. Release and allow
springs to return weights to retard position. Repeat
several times. Springs should return weights to stop
without sticking and there should be no excessive
free movement in the retard position. Inspect
springs for distortion and fatigue.
e. Inspect cam lobes for scoring or excessive wear.
Check weight base plate for binding or excessive
looseness on distributor shaft.
f. Check breaker plate for excessive looseness on
outside diameter of upper distributor shaft bushing.
Check breaker plate ground lead for poor spot we Id
at plate end and for loose or frayed terminal connections.
g. Check for excessive wear between distributor
shaft and bushings in housing. Inspect shaft for
distortion. Inspect gear for scoring of teeth or
excessive wear.
h. Inspect rod end of vacuum advance mechanism
for excessive wear. Push rod into unit as far as
possible, hold finger tightly over nipple, then release rod. After about 15 seconds, remove finger
from nipple, and notice i f air is drawn into unit.
If not, diaphragm is leaking and unit must be
replaced.
H-29. Distributor Reassembly
Refer to Fig. H-l5.
a. Install distributor primary lead and rubber
grommet in distributor housing. Mount vacuum
advance unit on housing with two slotted attaching
screws; insert ground lead terminal of breaker plate
under outer mounting screw.
b. Install felt washer over upper shaft bushing of
distributor housing and apply a few drops of light
oil. Secure breaker plate to upper bushing with retainer. See Fig. H-17.
c. Install distributor cam and weight base plate
on distributor shaft.
d. Insert distributor shaft into distributor housing.
Install centrifugal advance weights and springs on
cam and weight base plate.
e. Fasten driven gear to shaft with pin. Be careful not to damage gear.
f. Secure condenser and bracket to breaker plate
with slotted screw.
g. Install breaker point assembly over boss on
breaker plate; secure with two slotted screws and
lock washers. Apply one drop of light oil to breaker
arm pivot. Connect condenser and coil primary
leads to breaker point assembly.
h. Apply a small amount of high temperature cam
and ball bearing lubricant to a clean cloth; hold
cloth against distributor cam while turning distributor shaft.
C a u t i o n : Do not apply excessive grease. Petroleum jelly is not suitable as a distributor cam lubricant.
i. Make preliminary adjustment of breaker point
gap, as described in Par. C-10.
] . Secure rotor to centrifugal timing advance mechanism with two screws, lock washers, and flat
washers.
Note: The square and round lugs on the rotor must
be positioned in the corresponding holes in the
weight base plate.
k. If a reliable distributor tester is available, check
the distributor to make certain that the centrifugal
and vacuum advance mechanisms are operating
according to specifications.
Note: Mount distributor in tester with all end play
of the distributor shaft in upward position; this
will eliminate any possible drag between the centrifugal advance cam and weight base plate.
I. Install new O-ring seal on distributor housing.
H-30.
12767
FIG. H-17—INSTALLING B R E A K E R P L A T E
ON D I S T R I B U T O R H O U S I N G ( D E L C O )
1— Breaker Plate
2—Retainer
3— Retainer Groove
4— Lubricant Reservoir
186
Distributor Installation and Timing
a. Insert distributor shaft into timing gear cover
of engine so that rotor is pointing to mark made on
distributor base (Fig. H-14), with vacuum advance
unit pointing in exact, original direction (Fig.
H-18).
b. Install distributor clamp and bolt with lock
washer, leaving bolt just loose enough to permit
movement of the distributor with heavy hand
pressure.
C. Connect primary wire to distributor side of coil.
Install distributor cap on distributor housing. Press
screwdriver into upper slotted ends of two cap
retainers. Turn retainers clockwise to secure cap to
distributor.
d. If spark cables were disconnected from distributor cap, connect them. Wires must be pushed
all the way down into the distributor cap terminals
and onto the spark plugs. Nipples must be pushed
firmly over the terminals; boots must be pushed
firmly over the spark plugs.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
H
The only test required of the ignition ballast resistor is a continuity check. Characteristics of the
ballast produce wide variations in resistance with
changes in ballast temperature. Therefore, checking voltage drop across the ballast would be misleading.
C a u t i o n : Never make a connection that connects
the ballast across the battery as this will burn the
ballast resistor winding.
12746
FIG. H-l8—VACUUM ADVANCE
MECHANISM (DELCO)
A—Full Advance
B—No Advance
1—Vacuum Pull Rod
e. To adjust breaker point cam dwell and set timing of engine, refer to Pars. C-10 and C - l l .
H-31. C o i l — V-6 Engine
The sealed coil does not require any special service
other than keeping the terminals and wire connections clean and tight.
The positive ( + ) terminal of the coil is connected
to the ignition switch through the ballast resistor,
and is also connected directly to the starter solenoid to by-pass the resistance during cranking of
engine.
The negative (—) terminal is connected to the
distributor. The secondary (high tension) terminal
is connected by a short cable to the center terminal
in the distributor cap.
Always make certain the coil wires are connected
to the proper coil terminals to ensure correct
coil polarity.
N o t e : The ignition coil and ballast resistor must
be of the same manufacturer. Ballast resistors
and ignition coils of one manufacturer are interchangeable with both units of the other.
H-32.
Ballast Resistor
• V-6 Engine.
An ignition ballast resistor is in series with the
primary winding of the coil. The ballast resistor
helps regulate the flow of primary current throughout the speed range. At low speeds when the contacts remain closed longer, the ballast heats and
increases in resistance, thereby limiting the flow of
primary current. At higher speeds when the contacts remain closed for shorter periods of time, the
ballast cools and thereby decreases in resistance
to allow more primary current and reduce the fall
off in available voltage. During starting, the resistor
compensates for the lowered battery voltage resulting from the starter load and permits an increase in primary current, resulting in a higher
secondary voltage for starting.
H-33. Spark Plugs
Clean and gap spark plugs as described in Par. C-4.
Inspect them for excessive burning and erosion of
electrodes, blistering of porcelain at the firing tip,
black deposits, or fouling. These conditions indicate
that the plugs have not been operating at the correct temperature.
N o t e : Prolonged idling just before removing and
checking the plugs should be avoided as it may
produce false indications.
Spark plug operating temperatures may have been
too hot, too cold, or normal as described.
a . At too hot a temperature, the tip of the insulator
will show dark spots and blisters after fairly short
service. As high-temperature operation is continued, the whole insulator nose will discolor, showing fused and blistered deposits near the electrode
as well as considerable erosion and burning of the
electrodes. After extreme service, the porcelain itself may be fused, cracked, and blistered at the tip.
The electrodes will show extreme erosion and burning and possibly even surface cracking.
N o t e : If such cracking appears on certain plugs
after fairly short service, it may be caused by water
leaks in the associated cylinders.
b. At too cold a temperature plug operation, in
the early stages, will result in a dull black sooting
of the plug. This condition frequently is found in
new vehicles during the break-in period and is no
indication of trouble in this case. As the condition
progresses, black deposits of oil and carbon build
up on the base of the shell and on the insulator
until, in extreme cases, the space between insulator
and shell may be almost completely filled. Excessive
electrode erosion will seldom be found in cases of
cold plug operation. These indications can be produced by the use of an excessively rich air-fuel
mixture and the carburetor should be checked if
this condition is suspected. Fouling will also be
caused by leaking rings or intake valve guides that
permit excessive oil to reach the combustion
chambers. The use of a hotter plug will help burn
away some of this fouling but the mechanical condition of the engine should be corrected.
c. In normal temperature operation the plug will
accumulate grayish-tan to reddish-brown deposits
with fairly uniform discoloration of the insulator
nose and slight, localized electrode erosion. If the
insulator shows any blotches, blisters, irregular discoloration, etc., look for hot-plug symptoms. Too
hot or too cold plug operation may be caused by
the use of plugs of other than the specified heat
rating but if the plugs are as specified a hotter or
187
H
ELECTRICAL
colder plug may be desirable. However, under- or
over-heating is usually caused by factors other than
the type of spark plugs and the cause should be
determined before changing plugs. The design of
the engine calls for plugs equivalent to Champion
J-8 for F 4 engines and A . C . 44S or UJ12Y Champion for the V6 engines, (as installed in production)
though any factor that consistently affects engine
operating temperature may cause this requirement
to change. Overheating may be caused by insufficient tightening of the plug in the head, which
interferes with the flow of heat away from the firing
tip. I f this is the case, the plug gasket will show very
little flattening. Over-tightening, in turn, will produce too easy a heat flow path and result in cold
plug operation. This will be evident by excessive
flattening and deformation of the gasket. Prevailing
temperatures, condition of the cooling system, and
air-fuel mixture can affect the engine operating
temperature and should be taken into consideration.
H-34.
G E N E R A T O R — F4
ENGINE
The generator is an air-cooled, two-brush unit
which cannot be adjusted to increase or decrease
output. For replacement, voltage regulator and
generator must be matched for voltage and capacity, polarity, and common source of manufacture.
Otherwise, either a loss of ampere capacity or a
burned out generator will result. Generators for
these vehicles are 12-volt. Par. H - l explains the
12-volt system. Refer to the specifications at the
end of this section for information on correct
generator rating for a specific model series.
The circuit breaker, voltage regulator, and currentlimiting regulator are built into one combination
unit. Because the regulator and battery are part
of the generator circuit, the output of the generator
depends upon the state of charge and temperature
of the battery. With a discharged battery, the
output will be high, decreasing proportionally as
the battery becomes charged. For service information covering current regulator see Par. H-41.
H-36.
Generator Maintenance
A periodic inspection should be made of the charging circuit, Fig. H - l 9 . The interval between these
checks will vary depending upon type of service.
Dust, dirt and high speed operation are factors
10541
FIG. H-19—CHARGING CIRCUIT
1— Battery
2— Voltage Regulator
3— Generator
188
4-—Starter Switch
5-—Charge Indicator
SYSTEM
which contribute to increased wear of bearings
and brushes.
Under normal conditions a check should be made
each 6000 miles [9.600 km.].
A visual inspection should be made of all wiring,
to be sure there are no broken or damaged wires.
Check all connections to be sure they are tight and
clean.
Should the commutator be rough or worn the
armature should be removed and the commutator
turned and undercut. See Par. H-37.
The brushes should slide freely in their holders.
Should they be oil soaked or if they are worn to
less than one-half their original length they should
be replaced. When new brushes are installed they
should be sanded to provide full contact with the
commutator. Generators should not be checked for
output until the brushes are seated.
Brush spring tension is important. High tension
causes rapid brush and commutator wear while
low tension causes arcing and reduced output.
Test the tension with a spring scale. Check the
specifications section at end of this section for
correct spring tension for generator in question.
H-36.
Generator Disassembly
• Refer to Fig. H-20:
Before beginning disassembly of the generator to
correct electrical system malfunctions proceed with
inspection and test procedures as detailed in Par.
H-46 thru H-62. I f it is definitely determined that
trouble exists within the generator, which necessitates dismantling, proceed as follows.
Remove the two frame screws in the commutator
end plate and remove the end plate assembly.
Next pull the armature and drive head complete
from the generator housing. Remove the generator
pulley from the armature by removing the nut
and washer. Do not lose the Woodruff key when
the pulley is removed. After this, remove the drive
end head assembly which includes the oil seal and
bearing. To remove the bearing, remove the three
screws and lockwashers in the grease retainer and
remove the retainer and felt washer, after which,
remove the bearing, oil guard and felt washer.
H-37.
Armature
If the commutator is rough or worn, turn it down
in a lathe. After turning, the mica insulation between the segments should be undercut to a
depth of 34* [0,8 mm.].
To test the armature for a ground, connect one
prod of a test lamp to the core or shaft (not on
bearing surface) and touch each commutator segment with the other prod. I f the lamp lights, the
armature segment is grounded and the armature
must be replaced.
To test for short in armature coils, a growler,
Fig. H-21, is necessary. Place the armature on the
growler and lay a thin steel strip on the armature
core. The armature is then rotated slowly by hand
and if a coil is shorted, the steel strip will vibrate.
Should a coil be shorted the armature must be
replaced.
If precision test equipment is available, the customary accurate tests can be made in accordance
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
H
U029p
FIG. H-20—GENERATOR
1—Oil Retainer
2— Bearing
3—-Felt Wick
4—Oiler
5—Commutator E n d Head
6—Brush Lead Screw
7— Lockwasher
8—Brush Set
9—Brush Spring
10—Brush Arm
11—Frame
12—Insulating Bushing
13—Washer
14—Lockwasher
15—Hex Nut
16—Lockwasher
17— Hex Nut
18— Ground Screw
19— Lockwasher
20— Hex Nut
21 —Lockwasher
22— Hex Nut
23—Lockwasher
24— Washer
25— Insulating Washer
26— Insulating Bushing
27— Stud
28— Left and Right Field Coil
29— Pole Shoes
30— Pole Shoe Screw
31— Drive Pulley and F a n Assembly
3 2—Lockwasher
33— Shaft Nut
34— Drive E n d Head
35— Felt Washer
36— Felt Washer Retainer
37—Ball Bearing
38— Gasket
39—Bearing Retainer
40—Lockwasher
41— Retainer Screw
42—-Felt Washer
43— Woodruff K e y
44—Armature
45—Thru Bolt
4 6—Lockwasher
with instructions furnished with the testing equipment.
coils, set the pole piece screws by staking with a
center punch.
H-38. Field Coils
Inspect the field coils for chafed wires and using
test lamp prods check for both open and grounded
circuits. To test for open coil, connect the prods
to the two leads from each coil. If the lamp fails
to light, the coil is open and must be repaired or
replaced.
To test for ground, place one prod on ground and
the other on the field coil terminal. If a ground is
present the lamp will light and the coil must be
repaired or replaced.
If accurate test equipment is available, check the
field coils for current draw which should be within the limits of 1.2 to 1.3 amperes at 10 volts for
both coils.
A shorted coil will of course show a much higher
draw, while an open coil will show no draw. In
either case the generator output will be below
normal.
To replace a field coil, disconnect the field terminals, use a heavy screwdriver to remove the field
pole piece screws, then the coils together with the
pole pieces may be removed. When replacing the
H-39. Brush Holders
With test prods check the insulated brush holder
to be sure it is not grounded. Touch the brush
holder with one prod and the frame with the
other prod. If the lamp lights, a grounded brush
holder is indicated.
Inspect the brush holders for cracks, distortion and
improper alignment. The brushes should slide freely
and should be in perfect alignment with the commutator segments.
H-40. Assembling Generator
Install the felt grease retainer and washer in the
drive end head. See Fig. H-20. Check the bearing
to be sure it is clean and fill it one-half full with
a high melting point grease. Install the bearing
and also install the inside felt washer and attach
the bearing retainer with the lockwashers and
screws. Place the drive end head over the front end
of the armature shaft. Install the Woodruff key in
the armature shaft and install the drive pulley,
being sure the key is in position. Secure in position
with the washer and nut. Place the assembly on
189
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
that as the contacts open and close a slight wiping
action is produced.
The electromagnet of the circuit breaker has two
windings, one, the shunt coil which is connected
across the generator output like a voltmeter and
the other a series coil connected in series with the
generator output like an ammeter.These two coils
are wound in the same direction so that when the
generator is charging the battery, the magnetism
of the series coil increases the total magnetism.
When the battery discharges back through the
generator, the magnetism of the series coil is reversed and the magnetism of the two coils is
opposed. This results in a decreased pull on the
armature and spring action opens the contacts.
FIG.
H-21—GROWLER
end so it rests on the pulley with the commutator
end up.
While holding brushes clear of commutator with
the thumbs, place generator housing and field
coils assembly in position, turning front end
bracket so the dowel pin in housing enters hole in
end head. Place commutator end plate on shaft
and install long frame screws.
When reinstalling the generator on the engine, the
bracket bolt torque wrench reading is 25 to 35
lb-ft. [3,4 a 4,8 kg-m.].
H-41. CURRENT-VOLTAGE
• F4 Engine
REGULATORS
H-42. Description and O p e r a t i o n
For replacement, voltage regulator and generator
must be matched for voltage and capacity, polarity,
and common source of manufacture. Otherwise,
either a loss of ampere capacity or a burned out
generator will result.
These regulators are used with shunt-type generators and have three units each with a separate
function to perform. These units are the circuit
breaker unit, the voltage regulator unit, and the
current limiting regulator unit.
H-43. C i r c u i t Breaker
It consists of an electromagnet and a set of contacts.
The contacts are mounted with one on a stationary
bracket, and the other on a movable armature
which is controlled by the electromagnet. The
movable contact is mounted on a spring arm so
190
10240
FIG. H-22—PRESTOLITE
VOLTAGE
REGULATOR
1— " A R M " Terminal
2— " F L D " Terminal
3— " B A T " Terminal
The sequence of operation of the circuit breaker is
as follows:
When the generator is not running, the contacts
are open. When the generator is started, the voltage
builds up at the armature terminal and in the shunt
coil and as soon as it reaches the value for which
the circuit breaker is calibrated, there is sufficient
magnetism created by the shunt coil to pull down
the armature, closing the contacts which automatically connects the generator to the battery.
With the contacts thus closed the current in the
series coil is flowing from the generator to the
battery or in the same direction as the current in
the shunt coil, so that the pull on the armature is
increased by the magnetism of the series coil.
When the engine is stopped and the generator loses
speed, the voltage falls, and as soon as the generator voltage drops below the battery terminal voltage, the current flows from the battery to the
generator, reversing the direction of current in the
series coil so that the magnetism created by the
series coil opposes and reduces the magnetism of
the shunt coil. This reduces the pull on the armature
to a point where spring action opens the contacts.
H-44.
Voltage Regulator
The function of the voltage regulator is to hold
the generated voltage at a predetermined value as
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
long as the circuit values allow the voltage to build
up to the operating voltage.
The electromagnet of the voltage regulator unit has
a winding of many turns of fine wire and is connected across the charging circuit so that the system voltage controls the amount of magnetism.
The contacts of the voltage regulator unit are connected in the generator field circuit so that the field
circuit is completed through the contacts when they
are closed and through a resistor when the contacts
are opened.
When the voltage rises to a predetermined value
there is sufficient magnetism created by the regulator winding to pull the armature down. This opens
the contacts and inserts resistance in the field circuit of the generator thus reducing thefieldcurrent.
The generated voltage immediately drops, which
reduces the pull on the armature to the point where
the spring closes the contacts. The output again
rises and the cycle is repeated.
These cycles occur at high enough frequencies to
hold the generated voltage at a constant value and
will continue as long as the voltage of the circuit
is high enough to keep the voltage regulator unit
in operation. With the addition of a current load
great enough to lower the battery voltage below
the operating voltage of the unit, the contacts will
remain closed and the generator will maintain a
charging rate as limited by its speed or the current
limiting regulator.
Due to the effect of heat on the operating characteristics of regulator windings it is necessary to
compensate for the changes in coil resistance when
the regulator is operating under varying temperature conditions. This is accomplished through the
use of a nickel iron magnetic by-pass on the voltage regulator unit. This shunt by-passes some of
the magnetic flux when the unit is cold and allows
most of the flux to act on the armature when the
unit is hot. Thus when the coil is hot and not as
efficient, the magnetic shunt reduces the amount of
flux needed to vibrate the armature.
The compensation is usually more than enough to
offset the changes in regulator coil resistance due
to heat. The excess compensation allows the regulator to operate at higher voltage under cold
operating conditions than under hot conditions.
This is necessary as it requires a higher voltage to
charge a battery with its internal resistance increased by low temperatures.
H-45. C u r r e n t - L i m i t i n g Regulator
The function of the current-limiting regulator is
to limit the output of the generator to its maximum safe output.
The electromagnet of the current regulator unit
consists of a winding of heavy wire that is connected
in series with the generator output. When the generator output reaches a predetermined value, the
current in the winding produces enough magnetism
to overcome the spring tension and pull the armature down. This opens the contacts and inserts resistance in the field circuit of the generator. With
the field current reduced by the resistance, the
generator output falls and there is no longer enough
magnetism to hold the contacts open. As soon as
the spring closes the contacts, the output rises and
H
the cycle is repeated. These cycles occur at high
enough frequencies to limit the output to a minimum fluctuation.
H-46. Preliminary Inspection
a. Wiring—Check the wiring to see that it is properly connected to the generator.
b. Generator Performance—Make sure the generator operates correctly without the regulator in the
circuit. Remove the armature and battery leads
from the regulator and connect an ammeter between them. Remove the field lead from the regulator and while operating at idle speed touch the
field lead to the regulator base. Increase the speed
slowly noting the charging rate.
C A U T I O N : Do not increase the output above
the rated output of the generator.
If the generator output will not build up inspect
the wiring harness for shorts and opens and remove
the generator for an overhaul. To check the generator circuit when a suitable ammeter is unavailable,
Fig. H-19, disconnect the armature cable at the
regulator. Connect one lead of a 12v test lamp to the
regulator terminal marked "armature" and with
the engine running, ground the other lead. Should
the test light fail to burn there is a fault either in the
generator or regulator. To localize the fault, disconnect both the "Field" and "Armature" cables at
the generator. Connect a wire from the "Field" terminal to ground and use a 60 watt, 110 volt test
lamp to ground the "Armature" terminal. I f the
generator is charging satisfactorily the test lamp
will glow at approximately 1500 rpm. engine speed
and the fault will be definitely localized in the
regulator.
c. Incorrect Regulator—Make sui
he regulator
is the correct type for use with the generator.
d. Battery—Check the specific gravity and terminal voltage of the battery. I f the \ ttery is not up
to specifications substitute temporarilyfortest purposes a fully charged battery of the same type and
capacity.
e. High Resistance Connections—Inspect the wiring between the generator, regulator and battery
for broken wires and high resistance connections.
Pay special attention to the ground connections at
all three units. Connect a reliable ammeter with
1-ampere graduations in series with the regulator
B-terminal and the lead removed from this terminal.
Run the generator at a medium speed and turn on
the lights or accessories until the ammeter shows a
10-ampere charging rate. At this charging rate
measure the voltage drop between the following
points using an accurate voltmeter graduated in
,1-volt divisions. The voltmeter should not show
a reading above the maximum noted.
Generator "A" terminal to regulator "A" terminal
—.1-volt maximum.
Generator " F " terminal to regulator " F " terminal
—.05-volt maximum.
Battery terminal to regulator " B " terminal—
.1-volt maximum.
Regulator ground screw to generator frame—
.03-volt maximum.
191
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Regulator ground screw to battery ground post
—.03-volt maximum.
Generator frame to battery ground post—.03-volt
maximum.
H-47. T e s t Procedure
a. Circuit Breaker—Connect an ammeter in series
between the regulator B-terminal and the lead
wire removed from that terminal. Connect a
voltmeter between the regulator A-terminal and the
regulator mounting base. Disconnect the field lead
from the regulator F-terminal and insert a variable
resistance (3 amp., 50 ohm capacity) between the
lead and the regulator terminal. Run the generator
at about 1000 generator rpm. Insert all the resistance in the field circuit, then slowly reduce the
resistance noting the voltage reading just before
the change caused by the closing of the circuit
breaker. Increase the charging rate to the figure
specified for the regulator being tested then reduce
the charging rate by inserting resistance in the
field circuit. Note the voltmeter and ammeter
reading just before the circuit breaker opens and
the ammeter reading drops to zero. The closing
voltage and the opening voltage or current should
be within the limits specified. An accurate method
for noting the exact instant of the opening or closing
of the circuit breaker is to connect a headphone
(2000 ohms or higher) to the battery and armature
terminals of the regulator. When the contacts
open or close a click will be heard in the headphones.
To adjust the closing voltage change the armature
spring tension by bending the hanger at the lower
end of the spring. Increase the spring tension to
raise the closing voltage or decrease the tension
to lower the closing voltage. To adjust the opening
voltage raise or lower the stationary contact
keeping the contacts perfectly aligned. Increasing
the contact gap lowers the opening ' voltage.
Change the contact gap by expanding or contracting the stationary contact bracket, keeping the
contacts aligned. Do not adjust the gap between
the contacts to less than the specified minimum.
b. Voltage Regulator—Connect the ammeter as in
step a. Connect the voltmeter between the regulator
B-terminal and the regulator base. Remove the
variable resistance from the field circuit. Run the
generator at half output for 15 minutes to bring
the regulator to normal operating temperature.
Keep the cover on the regulator during the warmup period and also when taking readings.
Stop the engine then bring it up to approximately
2500 generator rpm. Adjust the amperage to half
maximum output by turning on lights or accessories and then note the voltmeter reading. This reading should be within the limits specified for the
voltage regulator operation. To adjust the operating voltage change the armature spring tension by
bending the hanger at the lower end of the armature spring. After each adjustment stop the engine
then restart it. Bring it up to speed and adjust the
current before taking a reading. I n order to obtain
an accurate indication of the operation of the voltage regulator unit connect a headphone (2000 ohm
or higher) between the F-terminal and ground to
pick up the sound of the opening and closing of the
contacts. The clicks should be regular and clear
192
without irregularities or missing. I f the tone is not
clear and regular remove the regulator cover and
inspect the contacts. The contacts should be flat
and not burned excessively and should be aligned
to make full face contact. I f the contacts need
cleaning refer to paragraph d for the method.
c. Current Regulator—Connect the regulator and
the test equipment as in step b. Running the
generator at approximately 3000 generator rpm.,
turn on lights and accessories so that the generator
must charge at maximum rate. The ammeter should
give a reading within the limits specified.
To adjust opening amperage, change the armature
spring tension by bending the hanger at the lower
end of the armature spring. After each adjustment,
stop the engine, then restart it. Bring the engine
up to speed and take an ammeter reading. Keep
the cover on the regulator when taking these
readings.
Connect a headphone (2000 ohms or higher) between the regulator F-terminal and ground to pick
up the sound of opening and closing of the contacts.
Clear, regular clicks should be heard over the
headphones; they should not be irregular or missing.
If the tone is not clear and regular remove the
regulator cover and inspect the contacts. The
contacts should be flat and not burned excessively
and should be aligned to make full face contact. I f
the contacts need cleaning refer to paragraph d.
below for the method.
d. Contacts—Inspect the contacts on all three
units. I n normal use the contacts will become
grayed. If the contacts are burned or dirty or if
they are not smooth, file the contacts with a # 6
American, Swiss cut, equalling file. Move the file
parallel and lengthwise to the armature. File just
enough so that the contacts present a smooth surface toward each other. I t is not necessary to
remove every trace of pitting. After filing, dampen
a piece of linen or lintless bond tape in refined
carbon tetrachloride and draw the tape between
the contacts. Repeat with a dry piece of tape. Use
clean tape for each set of contacts.
e. Recheck—Operate the unit at half maximum
output for five minutes with the cover on the regulator. Repeat the testing procedure for all units as
described in a, b, c above. Be sure cover is on regulator when taking readings.
H-48. Quick Checks
H-49. Low Charging Rate with a Fully
Charged Battery
A fully charged battery and a low charging rate
indicates normal regulator operation.
A further check of the regulator operation can be
made by using the starting motor for 5 to 10
seconds with the ignition switch in the "off" position. Then start the engine and operate at a generator speed of 2500 to 3000 rpm. The charging rate
should rise to its maximum value then taper off to
a minimum charge as the battery becomes charged.
H-50. High Charging Rate with a Fully
Charged Battery
This is usually an indication that the voltage regulator is not operating correctly. The high voltage
1
'Jeep U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
will cause the battery to gas excessively and will
shorten the life of the ignition contacts and, in
general, will have a detrimental effect on all connected load.
Connect an ammeter in series with the regulator
" B " terminal and the lead removed from the terminal. Run the generator at a medium speed and perform the following operation. After each test is
completed reconnect whatever leads have been
opened.
H
H-56. Cleaning of Contacts
Clean the voltage regulator contacts with a #6
American Swiss cut equalling file. File lengthwise
and parallel to the armature and then clean the
contacts with clean linen tape. First draw a piece
of tape that has been wet with carbon tetrachloride between the contacts then follow with dry
tape. Reset the regulator operation as in the operation test, Par. H-47.
H-57.
H-51. T e s t One
Disconnect the field lead at the generator.
a. Output drops to zero—shorted field circuit in
regulator or in wiring harness. See test 2.
b. Output does not drop—shorted field circuit in
generator. Inspect generator.
H-52. T e s t T w o
Disconnect the field lead at the regulator.
a. Output drops to zero—shorted field in regulator.
See test 3.
b. Output does not drop—shorted wiring harness.
Repair or replace wiring harness.
H-53. T e s t Three
Remove the regulator cover and hold the voltage
regulator contacts open.
a. Output drops to zero—regulator contacts sticking, regulator out of adjustment, or regulator inoperative. Check operation (test 5), check for high
resistance (test 4), and clean contacts per instructions in Par. H-56.
b. Output does not drop—shorted field circuit in
the regulator. Clean the regulator contacts and inspect the regulator visually for incorrect wiring between units and shorted leads.
H-54. T e s t Four
Operate the units at 10 amperes output and measure the voltage drop from the regulator base to
the generator frame.
a. Voltage reading below .03 volts—ground circuit is satisfactory. See test 5.
b. Voltage reading above .03 volts—Inspect ground
circuit for poor connections and eliminate the high
resistance. See test 5.
H-56. T e s t Five
Connect a headphone from the regulator field terminal to the base and hold the current regulator
contacts closed.
a. A steady beat is heard—voltage regulator operating. Reset regulator as in the operation test,
Par. H-47.
b. An unsteady beat is heard—dirty or sticking
contacts. Clean contacts per instructions in Par.
H-56.
c. No beat is heard—inoperative voltage regulator
unit. Adjust regulator operation as in the operation
test. I f the regulator cannot be adjusted within
limits, remove for overhaul.
Low Battery and a Low or
No Charging Rate
Check all wiring for loose connections, frayed insulation and high resistance connections and correct any fault.
Make sure the generator operates correctly without the regulator in the circuit. Remove the "A"
and " B " leads from the regulator and connect an
ammeter between them. Remove the field lead from
the regulator and while operating at idle speed
touch the field lead to the regulator base. Increase
the speed slowly noting the charging rate. Do not
increase the output above the rated output of the
generator. I f the generator output will not build
up, inspect the wiring harness for shorts and opens
and remove the generator for an overhaul.
Connect an ammeter between the battery lead and
the regulator " B " terminal. Connect the field lead
to the regulator " F " terminal and connect the
armature lead to the regulator "A" terminal. Connect a voltmeter from the regulator "A" terminal to
the regulator base. Operate the generator at a
medium speed and perform the following tests:
H-58. Test Six
Read the voltmeter.
a. Voltage builds up—open series circuit. See test 7.
b. Voltage does not build up—regulator out of adjustment, field circuit open, grounded series circuit.
See test 8.
H-59. Test Seven
Remove the regulator cover and with the generator
operating at a medium speed hold the circuit
breaker contacts closed.
a. Ammeter shows no charge—open circuit breaker
shunt winding, incorrect setting of circuit breaker,
or dirty contacts. Clean contacts and reset circuit
breaker as in Par. H-47d. If the circuit breaker cannot be set, the shunt coil is open and the regulator
should be removed for overhaul.
b. No generator output—clean the circuit breaker
contacts and try the test again. If there is still no
charge the series windings are open and the regulator should be removed for overhaul.
H-60. Test Eight
Run the generator at idle speed and momentarily
connect a jumper from the F-terminal to the regulator base.
a. Voltage builds up—open field circuit or regulator out of adjustment. See test 9.
b. Voltage does not build up—grounded series circuit. Remove regulator for overhaul.
193
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
H-61. Test Nine
Operate at a medium speed with the jumper removed. Remove the regulator cover and hold the
voltage regulator contacts closed.
a. Voltage builds up—voltage regulator contacts
burned or dirty or incorrect regulator setting.
Clean the contacts and adjust the regulator as in
Par. H-47d.
b. Voltage does not build up—clean contacts and
repeat test. I f the voltage still does not build up,
see test 10.
H-62. Test T e n
Remove the regulator cover and hold the current
regulator contacts closed.
a. Voltage builds up—current regulator contacts
burned or dirty or incorrect regulator setting.
Clean the contacts and adjust the regulator as in
Par. H-47d.
b. Voltage does not build up—clean the contacts
and repeat the test. I f the voltage still does not
build up remove the regulator for an overhaul.
H-63. A L T E R N A T O R C H A R G I N G S Y S T E M
Most vehicles have, as standard equipment, a 35amp., 12-volt, negative ground alternator and a
transistorized voltage regulator.
The alternator charging circuit consists of the
battery, alternator, voltage regulator, ignition
switch, and charge indicator light.
An alternator differs from a conventional D C
shunt generator in that the armature is stationary,
and is called the stator, while the field rotates,
and is called the rotor. With the alternator construction, the higher current values involved in
the stator may be conducted to the external circuit
through fixed leads and connections, rather than
through a rotating commutator and brushes, as in
the D C generator.
The alternator employs a three-phase stator
winding. The rotor consists of a field coil encased
between six poled interleaved sections, producing
a twelve pole magnetic field with alternator north
and south poles. B y rotating the rotor inside the
stator, an alternating current is induced in the
stator windings. This alternating current is
changed to direct current by diodes and conducted
to the output terminal of the alternator.
Six silicon diode rectifiers act as electrical one-way
valves. Three of the diodes have negative polarity
and are grounded. The other three diodes have
positive polarity and connected to the output
terminal. I n all alternators discussed in this
manual, the diodes are pressed into heat sinks.
There are two heat sinks, one positive and the
other negative.
Since the diodes have a high resistance to the
flow of current in one direction and a low resistance
in the opposite direction, they are connected in a
manner which allows current to flow from the
alternator to the battery in the low resistance
direction. The high resistance in the opposite
direction prevents the flow of current from the
battery to the alternator. Because of this feature,
no circuit breaker is required between the alternator
and the battery.
194
Residual magnetism in the rotor field poles is
negligible. Therefore the starting field current
must be supplied by the battery. I t is connected
to the field winding through the ignition switch
and charge indicator lamp.
As in the D C shunt generator, the alternator
voltage is regulated by varying the field current.
In these alternator systems, this is accomplished
electronically in the transistorized voltage regulator. No current regulator is required since all
alternators have self-limiting current characteristics.
The entire D C output of the alternator has to pass
through the isolation diode. The isolation diode is
not essential for rectification. Its purpose is
threefold.
It provides automatic solid state switch for illuminating the alternator charge - discharge indicator
light when the alternator is not charging properly.
It automatically connects the voltage regulator to
the alternator and battery when the alternator is
operating.
It eliminates electrical leakage across the alternator
diodes so that leakage is negligible when the vehicle
is not in use.
The isolation diode is mounted in a separate aluminum heat sink. The 35-amp. alternator has a single
silicon diode. The alternator is designed to supply
the electrical demands of the battery and the
accessory circuits through a wide range of engine
speeds. The alternator is lighter and more compact
than a conventional D C shunt generator of comparable electrical size.
The principal components of the alternator are
the stator, the rotor, the slip ring end head, the
drive end head, the diode rectifiers, and the isolation
diode.
a. The stator consists of a laminated iron core on
which the three-phase windings are wound in slots
around the inside circumference. A pair of leads
are connected to each of the three points of the
winding. One of each pair of leads connects to a
negative diode rectifier and one to a positive diode
rectifier.
b. The rotor consists of a single field coil encased
between two six-fingered, interleaved iron sections
assembled to the shaft. The two ends of the field
coil are connected to two slip rings which are insulated from each other and from the shaft.
c. The slip ring end head supports the rectifier
heat sinks; a prelubricated sealed ball bearing, in
which the rotor shaft rotates; and the brush holders
and brushes.
d. The drive end head supports a prelubricated
sealed ball bearing in which the drive end of the
rotor shaft rotates.
e. The diode rectifiers are pressed in the rectifier
brackets or heat sinks and are connected to the
stator leads.
f. The isolation diode is pressed in the aluminum
heat sink mounted to the rear of the alternator. The
complete assembly is covered with a red insulating
coating.
For repairing the alternator, many of its major
components are furnished as complete assemblies
including: complete brush assembly which requires
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
no soldering or unsoldering of leads; two complete
rectifying diode assemblies which eliminate the need
for removing and replacing individual diodes; a
corpplete isolation diode assembly; and a rotor
assembly complete with shaft, pole pieces, field
coil, and slip rings.
The transistorized voltage regulator is an electronic
switching device. It senses the voltage appearing
at the auxiliary terminal of the alternator and
supplies the necessary field current for maintaining
the system voltage at the output terminal. The
output current is determined by the battery electrical load; such as headlights, heater, etc.
The transistorized voltage regulator is a sealed
unit, has no adjustments, and must be replaced
as a complete unit.
H-64. A L T E R N A T O R P R E C A U T I O N S
The following precautions must be observed to
prevent damage to the alternator and regulator.
a. Never reverse battery connections. Always
check the battery polarity with a voltmeter before
any connections are made to be sure that all connections correspond to the battery ground polarity
of the vehicle.
b. Booster batteries for starting must be properly
connected. Make sure that the negative cable of
the booster battery is connected to the negative
terminal of the battery in the vehicle. The positive
cable of the booster battery should be connected
to the positive terminal of the battery in the
vehicle.
c. Disconnect the battery cables before using a
fast charger.
d. Never use a fast charger as a booster for
starting the vehicle.
e. Never disconnect the voltage regulator while
the engine is running.
f. Do not ground the alternator output terminal.
g . Do not operate the alternator on an open circuit
with the field energized.
h . Do not attempt to polarize an alternator.
These precautions are stated here as an aid to
service personnel. They are also restated at appropriate places in the text of this section of the manual.
H-65.
ALTERNATOR
SERVICE
CHARGING
SYSTEM
I m p o r t a n t : All alternator tests for the 35, 40 and
55 amp alternator are the same, however, there is a
difference between the location of the various terminals and field current specifications. The field
current of the 35 amp alternator should be 1.7 to
2.3 amps, 40 and 55 amp alternators should be 1.8
to 2.4 amps, with full battery voltage applied to
the filed coil. Disassembly and assembly procedures
are the same for all three alternators. Terminal
locations and wire harness color codes for the 35,
40 and 55 amp alternator are shown in Fig. H-38.
H-66. Service Diagnosis
In diagnosing a suspected malfunction of the
alternator charging system, consideration must
be given to the complete electrical power plant of
H
the vehicle; including the alternator, regulator,
ignition switch, charge indicator lamp, battery,
and all associated wiring. I f it is suspected that the
alternator is not fully charging the battery and
fulfilling the electrical requirements of the electrical
system, several checks should be made before
checking the alternator itself:
N o t e : Whenever service is required in connection
with an alternator problem, the first step should be
to verify that the wiring harness hook-up is correct
as indicated in Fig. H-38.
a . Test the condition of the battery and state of
charge (Par. H-2). I f the battery is not fully charged
and in good condition, use a replacement battery
for making alternator system tests.
C a u t i o n : Make certain that the negative battery
post is connected to ground when making the
battery installation. Serious damage to the alternator can result if battery polarity is reversed.
b. Check fan belt for proper tension (Par. C-27).
C a u t i o n : To increase belt tension, apply pressure
to alternator front housing only as permanent
damage can result if pressure is applied to rear
housing.
H-67. Alternator In Vehicle Tests
The following tests are made with the alternator
in the vehicle with output and regulator connections maintained to the alternator except as noted
in Fig. H-27 and H-28. The field plug and voltage
regulator are disconnected for these tests. The
tests are given in proper order and detail in the
following paragraphs.
a . Isolation Diode Test: To determine if the isolation diode is open or shorted, refer to Par. H-69.
b. Alternator Output Test: To isolate the trouble
to the alternator or regulator, refer to Par. H-70.
c. Alternator Field Circuit Test: To determine the
condition of the field circuit (brushes and rotor),
refer to Par. H-73.
d. Brush Insulation and Continuity Test: To determine the condition of the brush, refer to Par. H-75.
e. Rotor In-Vehicle Test: To determine whether
the rotor coil is open or shorted, refer to Par. H-73.
f. Any further tests must be conducted with the
alternator removed and disassembled. When this
is done, the condition of the rotor, the rectifying
and isolation diodes, and the stator can be further
tested.
A commercial alternator tester Sun Electric Model
VAT-20 or equivalent can be used to make all
necessary tests on the alternator system. I f a commercial tester is used, follow the recommended
testing procedure outlined by the tester manufacturer.
If a commercial tester is not available, follow the
testing procedure as outlined in this manual.
H-68. T e s t Equipment
a . Volt Ampere Tester such as Sun Electric Model
VAT-20 or equivalent with meter ranges as shown
in the following list can be used.
195
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
D C ammeter
D C ammeter
D C voltmeter
Rheostat
—
—
—
—
0 to 60 ampere
0 to 5 ampere
0 to 16 volt
40 ohm capable of
handling 3 amps.
Carbon Pile — 45 amperes
b. Diode Rectifier Tester C-3829.
c. 12-volt D C test lamp.
d. Ohmmeter of any commercial type is not absolutely necessary but can be helpful.
H-69. Isolation Diode Check
With the ignition key in the off position the correct
voltage at the auxiliary terminal is zero volts. I f
voltage measured at auxiliary terminal is the same
as voltage at output terminal, the isolation diode
is shorted. I n most cases, the charge indicator lamp
would be glowing with the ignition off if the isolation diode were shorted. Refer to Fig. H-23.
indicator lamp glowing when the engine is running.
Refer to Fig. H-24.
If the isolation diode is shorted or open, the heat
sink and diode should be replaced as an assembly.
At the time of manufacture, the diode is pressed
into the heat sink and the complete assembly is insulated from the alternator housing.
H-70. Alternator O u t p u t T e s t
This test excludes the regulator from the alternator
system, thereby isolating the problem to either the
regulator or alternator.
Disconnect field and voltage regulator plug and
connect jumper from auxiliary terminal to field
terminal. Start engine and run at idle. Refer to
Fig. H-25.
GREEN
DC VOLTS
13403
DC VOLTS
FIG. H-25—ALTERNATOR
13401
F I G . H-23—ISOLATION D I O D E
SHORTED DIODE
TEST-
With the engine running the correct voltage at the
auxiliary terminal is 15.4 volts and at output terminal is 14.4 volts. I f voltage of auxiliary terminal
is 15.4 volts, while at output terminal it is 12 volts
or battery voltage, the isolation diode is open. I n
most cases, this would be indicated by the charge
VOLT
REG
BLACK
1
If voltage at auxiliary terminal rises to 15 or 16
volts now, when it did not with voltage regulator
connected, then defect is in regulator and it should
be replaced. I f voltage does not rise at auxiliary
terminal, defect is in alternator stator or rectifier
diodes, if field circuit checked out properly. For
defects in stator or diodes, remove alternator from
vehicle.
If rated current output is obtained with at least 13
volts but less than 15 volts at the output terminal,
the alternator is functioning properly.
If rated current output cannot be obtained, proceed
with the tests and checks given in the following
paragraphs and isolate the cause.
Note: The system is designed to produce slightly
more output at low operating temperatures and less
at higher temperatures to accommodate the varying
demands of electrical power normally consumed at
these temperatures.
15.4 VOLTS
DC VOLTS
BATTERY
DC VOLTS
F I G . H-24—ISOLATION D I O D E
OPEN DIODE
196
TEST
C a u t i o n : Do not exceed rated current output of
alternator by increasing load on alternator.
GREEN
TO CHARGE
INDICATOR LAMP
OUTPUT
TEST-
H-71. Regulator T e s t
The regulator should be checked with an alternator
that is functioning properly. I f the alternator is
questionable, perform the Alternator Output Test
(Par H-70) which excludes the regulator from the
charging system and, therefore, tests the condition
of the alternator alone.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L
H-72.
H
SERIES S E R V I C E MANUAL
R e m o v a l a n d I n s t a l l a t i o n of
Voltage Regulator
The transistorized voltage regulator is a sealed unit.
It cannot be disassembled or adjusted. If found to
be defective in any way, it must be replaced as
a unit.
The transistorized voltage regulator is mounted on
the fender dust shield by three mounting screws.
Wiring connections to the charging circuit are
made through a three-prong connector.
To remove the regulator, disconnect the three prong connector and remove the three mounting
screws. Installation of the regulator is the reverse
of the removal. (Refer to Fig. H-26.)
If voltage reads zero volts at auxiliary terminal,
check charge indicator lamp and associated circuit.
If this voltage is not correct, continue with the following test described in paragraph b.
Amperage Test — Refer to Fig. H-28.
b. This test evaluates complete field circuit, independent of voltage regulator. Circuit is through
brushes, slip rings, rotor to ground. With ignition
switch off, current should be 2 to 2.5 amps. If less
than this, check brushes and slip rings. It is desirable to use a field rheostat in series with meter
for protection of the meter. If field is shorted, excessive current will flow through meter and damage may result.
GREEN FIELD WIRE
DISCONNECTED
13405
FIG. H-28—FIELD CIRCUIT T E S T AMPERAGE DRAW
H-74.
F I G . H-26—VOLTAGE
REGULATOR
H-73. A l t e r n a t o r F i e l d C i r c u i t T e s t
Voltage Test — Refer to Fig. H-27.
a . With the ignition key on and engine n o t running, the correct voltage at the auxiliary terminal is
approximately 1.5 volts. If the voltage at auxiliary
terminal is higher than 2 volts, field circuit is
defective — check brushes.
Brush Removal a n d Inspection
Refer to Fig. H-29.
The brushes can be removed and inspected while
the alternator is in the vehicle.
a . Disconnect the plug to the field terminal.
b. Remove the two screws and brush cover.
c. Remove brushes.
d . Inspect brushes for excessive wear and proper
tension. The brushes can be installed by reversing
the above procedure.
H-75.
Brush Insulation and Continuity Test
Refer to Fig. H-30.
a . Connect leads of a 12-volt test lamp to field
GREEN
F I G . H-29—BRUSH
13404
FIG. H-27—FIELD CIRCUIT
TEST—VOLTAGE
REMOVAL
1— Screw
2— Cover
3— Brush and Holder Assembly
4—Alternator
197
H
ELECTRICAL
terminal and bracket. Test lamp should not light.
If it does, the brush is shorted and must be replaced,
b. Connect one lead of an ohmmeter to field terminal and the other lead to insulated brush. Resistance reading should be zero. Move brush and
brush lead wire to make certain that the brush
lead wire connections are not intermittent. Resistance reading should not vary when brush and lead
wire are being moved.
C. Connect ohmmeter leads to bracket and
grounded brush. Resistance reading should be zero.
Repeat same test on brush lead wire as described
in step b above.
SYSTEM
b. Remove nut and bolt at alternator support
bracket. Remove nut, bolt, washer, and adjustment
bracket. Remove belt from alternator pulley. The
alternator is now free to be removed from the
vehicle.
H-79.
Rotor Tests — Bench
This test checks the condition of the rotor (field
coil) for open or shorted field winding, excessively
worn or sticky brushes, and open connections. I t
should be performed with the brush assembly installed in the alternator.
a . The field coil is checked for a short circuit
by connecting a fully charged battery and an
ammeter in series with the two slip rings.
A rheostat is placed in series in the circuit to protect
the instruments and components of the alternator.
Set rheostat to maximum resistance (40 ohms)
before making connections.
b. Slowly reduce resistance of rheostat to zero.
Then take reading on ammeter. With full battery
voltage applied to the field coil, the field current
of the 35-amp. alternator should be 1.7 to 2.3 amp.
N o t e : The field current of the 40 and 55 amp.
alternator should be 1.8 to 2.4 amps with full
battery voltage applied to the field coil.
F I G . H-30—INSULATION A N D C O N T I N U I T Y
T E S T POINTS
1^-Brackct
2—Field Terminal
3— Grounded Brush
4—Insulated Brush
H-76.
Rotor In-Vehicle Tests
a . Reference Par. H-73, Fig. H-28.
b. To check for a short circuit in the rotor windings, the alternator should be removed. Refer to
Par. H-79 for rotor bench tests.
H-77.
ALTERNATOR BENCH
TESTS
When the various tests given in Par. H-69 through
H-76 have determined a fault within the alternator
itself, the alternator should be removed from the
vehicle and the following tests given in sequence
to isolate the trouble to a particular component
of the alternator. Note that certain tests can be
performed after the alternator is removed and
before it is disassembled.
H-78.
ALTERNATOR REMOVAL
Note: Brushes and isolation diode can be removed
from alternator without removing unit from vehicle.
a . Disconnect all lead connections at alternator.
198
c. Turn rotor by hand, noting reading. Rotating
rotor will indicate if brushes are making good electrical contact. A slight fluctuation of reading (0.2
amp.) is to be expected.
If field current is not within limits, inspect brushes
and slip rings for excessive dirt, sticky, or broken
brushes, and bad connections. Check brush assembly for short and continuity (Par. H-75). Make
same test to slip rings. Reinstall repaired or known
good brush assembly and repeat test.
If the field current is above the maximum value
specified, it indicates that the field coil is either
shorted to rotor or field coil has shorted windings.
If the field current is zero, it indicates that the field
coil or coil-to-slip ring connection is open. I f the
field current is considerably less than the value
specified, it indicates a poor coil-to-slip ring connection or poor brush-to-slip ring connection.
d. To check continuity of the rotor, disconnect the
battery and connect an ohmmeter directly across
the field. Resistance between field terminal and
ground terminal should be approximately 6 ohms.
If resistance is high, field coil is shorted.
e. I f rotor is found to be defective in above tests,
repeat the above tests when the rotor is removed
from the alternator by connecting the test circuit to
rotor slip rings to ascertain findings. Field current
will be approximately 0.2 amp. higher than the
maximum value because of the normal brush-toslip-ring contact resistance that reduces field
current slightly. I f the rotor is found to be defective, it should be replaced.
H-80.
Alternator Disassembly
Refer to Fig. H-31.
a . Remove brush assembly by removing two tapping screws and cover. Then pull the brush as-
H
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
©
©
©
®
(a
11485
FIG. H-31—ALTERNATOR
1— Bolt
2— Cap Screw
3— Brush Assembly Cover
4—Brush Assembly
5—Locknut
6—Isolation Diode
7— N u t
8—Insulated Washer
9—Rear Housing
10—Slip Ring
11—Insulated Washer
12—Negative Diode Assembly
13— Positive Diode Assembly
14—Stator
15—Rear Bearing
16—Rotor
17—Retaining Clip
18—Front Bearing
19—Front Housing
20— Nut
21— Fan
22—Pulley
23— Lock Washer
24— Nut
25—Woodruff K e y
26— Bushing
27— Insulated Sleeve
28— Nut
sembly straight out until the brushes are clear of
rotor assembly. Lift the brush assembly out of the
housing.
b. Remove the isolation diode assembly by removing nuts.
c. Remove fan, pulley, lock washer, nut and spacer.
With the nut removed, remove pulley using Puller,
the other parts can then be removed easily from the
rotor shaft. The spacer will not come off until the
key is removed.
d . Separate front housing from rear housing by
removing bolts and nuts. Then insert blade of
a small screwdriver in the stator slots between the
stator and the front housing. Wedge apart the
halves of the alternator.
C a u t i o n : Take care not to insert the screwdriver
blade deeper than J/f " [0,16 cm.] below a stator.
Otherwise damage to the stator windings may
result. It may be necessary to apply pressure at
several points around the stator to extract rotor
and front housing as an assembly. Be careful not
to burr the stator core as this would make reassembly difficult.
6
e. Remove the two rectifying diode heat sink assemblies and the stator as a complete unit from
the rear housing by removing nuts and locknuts.
Note that the positive diode assembly is insulated
from the alternator housing by insulated washers
and insulated sleeves.
f. The diode and stator assemblies may now be
tested as outlined in Par. H-83. For additional testing (Pars. H-84 and H-85) or to replace a diode heat
sink assembly, unsolder the three soldered connections at the diodes to separate heat sink from
stator.
C a u t i o n : When unsoldering the stator wires from
the rectifier diode assembly, provide a heat sink
to the diode terminal using a pair of long-nosed
pliers to dissipate the heat away from the diodes.
g. To remove the rotor assembly from the front
housing remove the woodruff key and split spring
washer (bearing retainer).
FIG. H-32—REMOVING FRONT B E A R I N G
1—Front Bearing Remover C-4068
h . With the woodruff key removed and the split
spring washer loose, the rotor may be removed
from the front housing by tapping the rotor shaft
on a soft wood surface.
i. Remove the front and rear bearings from the
rotor shaft by using Bearing Remover C-4068 for
the front bearing, as shown in Fig. H-32, and Bearing Remover C-3936 for the rear bearing, as shown
in Fig. H-33.
H-81.
General Inspection
a . All parts should be wiped clean and visually
inspected for wear, distortion, and signs of overheating or mechanical interference.
b. Check the bearings for roughness or excessive
clearance. They should be replaced if found
defective.
N o t e : New bearings are prelubricated. Additional
lubrication is not required.
199
H
ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
Resistance reading should be infinite or test lamp
should not light. I f resistance reading is not infinite
or test lamp lights, high leakage or a short exists
between stator winding and stator. In either case,
the diode heat sinks should be separated from the
stator (Par. H-80) to ascertain whether the stator
should be replaced (Par. H-84).
H-84.
Stator Coil Leakage and
C o n t i n u i t y Test
This test checks for shorts or leakage between
stator coil windings. To conduct the test, the winding junctions must be separated as shown in Fig.
H-35. An ohmmeter or 12-volt test lamp may be
used.
|
FIG.
H-33—REMOVING R E A R
lists >
BEARING
1— Rear Bearing
2— Rear Bearing Remover C-3936
The alternator end housing may be wiped clean
with a cloth dampened i n solvent i f excessively
dirty but should not be buffed as this will destroy
special treatment given to inhibit corrosion.
H-82. O u t - O f - C i r c u i t Rotor T e s t
Refer to Pars. H-76 and H-79 for tests to be performed on the rotor. If these tests were not performed while the alternator was assembled, they
can be performed with the alternator removed by
following the procedure given in these paragraphs.
H-83. O u t - O f - C i r c u i t Stator Leakage Test
Disassemble alternator and remove the rectifier
diode plates and stator as shown in Fig. H-34 as
an assembly.
An ohmmeter or 12-volt test lamp may be used,
a. Connect one ohmmeter or test lamp probe to
one of the rectifier diode terminals and the other
to the stator as shown in Fig. H-34.
| .11521 •
FIG.
FIG.
H-34—STATOR L E A K A G E T E S T
1—Stator
2— Diode Terminal
200
POINTS
H-35—STATOR L E A K A G E AND
CONTINUITY T E S T POINTS
1— Test Point
3—Test Point
5—Test Point
2 — Test Point
4—Test Point
6—Test Point
a. Connect one of the ohmmeter or test lamp
probes to test point 4 as shown in Fig. H-35. Connect the other test probe to test point 5 and then to
test point 6. Resistance should be infinite or test
lamp should not light.
b. Connect one test probe to point 1 and the other
to point 3 and then point 2. Resistance should be
infinite or test lamp should not light.
In either test, if the resistance reading is not infinite
or the test lamp lights, high leakage or a short
exists between stator windings. Stator should be
replaced.
c. Measure resistance of each winding in stator
between test points 4 and 1, 5 and 3, and 6 and 2,
in Fig. H-35.
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Resistance should be approximately 0.1 ohm.
An extremely accurate instrument would be necessary to ascertain shorted turns. Only an open condition can be detected with a commercial ohmmeter.
If the alternator has been disassembled because of
an electrical malfunction, replace stator only after
all components have been checked and found to
be satisfactory.
H-85. O u t - O f - C i r c u i t Rectifier Diode Test
With the rectifier diode heat sinks disconnected
from the stator assembly (Par. H-80), the diodes
can be individually checked with the Diode Tester
C-3829.
H
H-86. A s s e m b l i n g A l t e r n a t o r
Refer to Fig. H-31.
a . To install front bearing in front housing, press
the bearing into place on an arbor press using
Bearing Installer C-3858. Position the split spring
washer in the front bearing housing oh top of
the bearing.
b. Install the rear bearing on the rotor shaft front
end using Bearing Installer C-3935 as shown in
Fig. H-37.
FIG. H-37—INSTALLING R E A R ROTOR
BEARING
1— Rear Bearing Installer C-3935
2— Rotor Shaft
FIG. H-36—RECTIFIER DIODE TEST POINTS
1— Diode Plate Stud
2— Diode Terminals
Fig. H-36 shows the test point location for either
positive or negative diode.
Plug Tester C-3829 into a 110-volt A C outlet.
Connect alligator clip to diode plate stud, and the
probe of the tester to each of the three diode terminal's test points. Negative diodes will give a
negative deflection of the needle and positive
diodes will give a positive deflection. The meter
reading should be the same for each of the diodes
and should be 2 or over for a good diode. If a
diode is faulty, replace the entire diode heat sink
assembly.
C . Place the rotor assembly into position in the
front housing by tapping rotor shaft on a soft
wood surface.
d. Position diode assemblies and stator as a unit
into the rear housing. Make certain that insulator
washers and insulator sleeves are correctly positioned on the positive diode assembly.
e. To assemble the subassembly halves of the
alternator (front housing and rear housing). Slide
the front housing over the stator. Install the bolts
and nuts.
f. Position first the spacer, then the woodruff key
on the rotor shaft and slide on the fan. Carefully
position the alternator in a vise with the clamps
of the vise held to the pulley. Position the pulley
so it is just starting to slide over the woodruff
key. Press it into position by tightening nut with
a wrench. When the pulley is properly positioned,
remove the nut, place the lock washer on the
rotor shaft, and again replace the nut.
g. Install the isolation diode assembly and secure
with locknuts.
h. Install the brush housing in position in the rear
housing. Install the brush housing cover and the
tapping screws.
i. Turn the rotor by hand listening carefully to
make certain there is no interference between the
rotor and the stator winding.
H-87. A l t e r n a t o r I n s t a l l a t i o n
To install the alternator, reverse the procedure
201
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
F I G . H-38—WIRE COLOR C O D E A N D
LOCATIONS F O R ALTERNATOR
HOOK-UP
1— Regulator (Auxiliary) Terminal (Cable — Grey)
2— Output Terminal: (Red)
3— Regulator Terminal (Cable — Grey)
4— Ground Terminal (Cable — Black-White Tracer)
5— Field Terminal (Cable — Green-White Tracer)
6— Ground (Optional) Terminal (Cable — Black-White
Tracer)
REAR VIEW
REAR VIEW
35 AMP. A L T E R N A T O R
40 & 55 AMP. A L T E R N A T O R
given in Par. H-78, adjusting the fan belt to its
proper tension after the alternator is mounted, as
described in Par. C-27. Wires should be connected
as shown in Fig. H-38.
When the vehicle is equipped with a radio, a .55
mfd. capacitor is required on the alternator. Mount
the capacitor strap to a ground terminal and connect the lead to the output terminal.
H-88. S T A R T I N G S Y S T E M
H-89.
SERVICE
Ignition Switch
The ignition switch serves both to energize the
ignition system and engage the starter switch.
The ignition switch has four positions: (1) A C C E S S O R Y , (2) L O C K , (3) O N , and (4) S T A R T .
The key must be in the switch to turn it to any
position other than L O C K , and the key can be
removed only in the L O C K position.
I n " A C C " , a connection is made from the battery
terminal to the accessory terminal of the switch to
allow accessories such as the radio, blower and/or
windshield wiper to be operated with the ignition,
fuel gauge and indicator light circuits off.
In " L O C K " , no accessory supplied through the
ignition switch can be operated. Also, the ballast
resistor (V-6 engine only) circuit to the ignition
coil ( I G N ) is grounded.
In "ON", a connection is made from the battery
terminal to the accessory terminal so that all
ignition switch supplied accessories can be operated.
Also the battery is connected to the ballast resistor
(V-6 engine only) leading to the ignition coil
( I G N ) . From this same terminal, a lead into the
instrument cluster energizes the fuel gauge and
indicator lights.
In " S T A R T " , all ignition switch supplied accessories are temporarily disconnected. A connection
is made to the starter solenoid lead. The charge
and oil indicator lamps will light until the engine
is started.
H-90.
Ignition Switch Removal
a . Remove the bezel nut and pull back the main
switch body. Lower the switch body from under the
202
instrument panel so that the wiring harness plug
can be removed from the prong connection,
b. I f the lock cylinder is to be removed, turn the
ignition key to the right and insert a short piece
of wire or end of a paper clip into the lock release
hole in the switch body. Pressing on the lock cylinder retainer will allow the cylinder to be removed.
H-91.
Ignition Switch Installation
Before installing the lock cylinder into the main
switch body, note the position of the lock cylinder
retainer.
a . Place the lock cylinder into the main switch
body with the highest part of the lock cylinder
retainer in line with the lock release hole in the
main switch body.
b. Compress the lock cylinder retainer so that the
lock cylinder can be installed all the way into the
main switch body or until the retainer can be
seen through the pin hole.
c. Install wiring harness plug onto switch body
prong connection.
d . Install this main switch body into the instrument panel opening from the rear.
e. To make sure that the switch is in its correct
position, install the ignition key in the off position.
Then turn the switch body until the key is straight
up and down. Remove the key, install the bezel
nut and secure.
H-92.
PRESTOLITE STARTING MOTOR
D A U N T L E S S V-6 and
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
The Prestolite starting motor on the V6 engine is
similar in construction (with exception of pinion
housings) to the starting motor installed on F 4
engines.
The starter solenoid switch is bolted to the starter
frame.
The starter is equipped with sealed-type absorbent
bronze bearings and no lubricant is required.
Service procedures for the Prestolite starter are
given in Pars. H-93 to H-107.
H
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
13406
FIG. H-39—STARTING
1— Ground Cable
2— Battery
3— Positive Cable
4—Alternator Wire
5—Alternator
6—Ignition Switch Wire
H-93. Maintenance Procedure
A periodic inspection should be made of the starting circuit. Since the interval between these checks
will vary according to the type of service, it should,
under normal conditions, be made every 500 hours
of operation. Inspect all starting circuit wiring for
damage. Check for loose or corroded terminals and
for dependable operation of the starting motor.
CIRCUIT
7— Ignition Switch
8— Solenoid Wire
9— Starter
10— Solenoid
11— Connector Strap
the commuator be rough or worn, it should be
removed for cleaning and reconditioning.
H-96. Overhaul Procedure
At periodic intervals the starting motor circuit
should be thoroughly checked and the motor removed from the engine for cleaning and checking.
H-94. Wiring
Refer to Fig. H-39.
Inspect the starting circuit to make sure that all
connections are clean and tight. Check for worn or
damaged insulation on the wires. Perform a voltage-loss test to make sure there is no loss of starting motor efficiency resulting from high resistance
connections. Voltage loss from the battery terminal to the starting motor terminal should not
exceed .30 volts for each 100 amperes. Voltage
loss between the battery ground post and the starting motor frame should not exceed .10 volts for
each 100 amperes. I f the voltage loss is greater
than these limits, measure the voltage loss over
each part of the circuit until the resistance causing
the voltage loss is located and corrected.
H-97. Removal and Disassembly
Refer to Fig. H-40 and H-41.
To remove the starting motor from the engine, disconnect the leads and cover the battery lead terminal with a piece of hose or tape to prevent short
circuiting. Remove the flange bolts holding the
starting motor to the flywheel housing. Remove
the starting motor from the vehicle.
Each part of the starting motor should be removed,
cleaned, and inspected for evidence of wear or
damage. The Bendix Folo-Thru Drive should be
cleaned and inspected for evidence of wear or a
distorted spring. Bearings should be checked for
proper clearance and fit. All insulation should be
free of oil and in good condition. The armature,
field coils, and brushes should be checked for good
ground and lack of open circuits.
H-95. C o m m u t a t o r
Sluggish starting motor operation may be caused
by a dirty commutator or worn brushes. The commutator cannot be cleaned while the. starting motor
is mounted on the engine and it will be necessary
to remove it and proceed as for an overhaul. Should
H-98. Brushes
a. The brushes should slide freely in their holders
and make full contact on the commutator. Worn
brushes should be replaced.
b. Check brush spring tension with a spring scale.
Hook the scale under the brush spring near the
203
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
11035
F I G . H-40—PRESTOLITE S T A R T I N G MOTOR—F4
1— End Plate
2— Plug
3— Thrust Washer
4— Brush Plate Assembly
5—Screw
6——Lock Washer
7—Insulating Washer
8— Terminal
9—Field Coil and Pole Shoe Set
10— Frame
1 1 —Insulating Washer
12— Washer
13— N u t
14— L o c k Washer
15— Insulating Bushing
16— Pole Shoe Screw
17— Sleeve Bearing
18— D r i v e E n d Frame
brush and pull On a line parallel with the side of
the brush. Take the reading just as the spring leaves
the brush. I t is important that the brush spring
tension be kept within the limits specified at the
end of this section. If the tension is too low, there
will be a loss of efficiency from poor brush contact.
Too great a tension will cause excessive brush and
commutator wear. To change the tension, twist the
spring at the holder with long-nosed pliers,
c. Worn brushes should be replaced. Brushes that
are soldered to the field coil should be unsoldered
and the loop in the field coil lead should be opened.
Insert the new brush pigtail to its full depth in the
loop. The new brush lead should be tightly clinched
in the terminal and then soldered to make a strong,
low-resistance connection.
H-99. C o m m u t a t o r
Check the commutator for wear and discoloration.
I f the commutator is rough or worn the armature
204
ENGINE
19— Intermediate Bearing
20— Bendix D r i v e
2 1 — Screw
22— L o c k Washer
23— T h r u s t Washer
24— K e y
25— A r m a t u r e
26— T h r u B o l t
27— Insulator
should be removed and the commutator turned
down in a lathe. A discolored commutator should
be cleaned with carbon tetrachloride. Never use
emery cloth.
H-100. A r m a t u r e
Visually inspect the armature for mechanical
defects before checking for shorted or grounded
coils. Use a set of test probes for testing armature
circuits. To test the armatures for grounds, touch
one point of the test probes to a commutator segment and touch the other point to the core or shaft.
Do not touch the points to the bearing surface or
to the brush surface as the arc formed will burn
the smooth finish. I f the lamp lights, the coil connected to the commutator segment is grounded.
To test for shorted armature coils, a growler as
shown-in Fig. H-42 is necessary. The armature is
placed against the core and a steel strip is held
on the armature. The growler is then energized
<j » U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E MANUAL
eep
t
H
^
12956
F I G . H-41—PRESTOLITE S T A R T I N G MOTOR—V-6 E N G I N E
1— E n d Plate
2—Oiling Pad
3— Thrust Washer
4—Brush Plate Assembly
5— Screw
6—Lock Washer
7— Insulating Washer
8— Terminal
9— Field Coil and Pole Shoe
10—Frame
11— Insulating Washer
12—Washer
13— Nut
14 —Lockwasher
15—Insulating Bushing
16—Pole Shoe Screw
17—Bearing, Outer
18— Drive E n d Frame Pinion Housing
19— Intermediate Bearing Housing
20— Lock Washer
and the armature rotated slowly by hand. If a
shorted coil is present, the steel strip will become
magnetized and will then vibrate.
H-101- Field Coils
Using test probes, check the field coils for both
ground and open circuits.
a . To test for ground, place one probe on the motor
frame or pole piece and touch the other probe to
the field coil terminals. I f a ground is present, the
lamp will light.
b. To test for open circuits, place the probes on
the field coil terminal and on an insulated brush.
If the light, does not light, the coil is open circuited.
H-102. Brush Holder Inspection
Using test probes, touch the insulated brush holder
with one probe and a convenient ground on the
commutator end head with the other probe. If the
lamp lights, it indicates a grounded brush holder.
21—Screw
22—Bendix Drive
23—Thrust Washer
24—Pin
25—Armature
2 6—Commutator
27—T h r u Bolt
28—Insulator
29—Bearing, Intermediate
H-103. S t a r t i n g M o t o r R e a s s e m b l y
Refer to Fig. H-40 and H-41.
a . When assembling absorbent bronze bearing
found in the end plate and drive end frame, always
use the proper arbor designed to give the proper
bearing fit. Soak the bearings in oil before assembling in the bearing bore. Give the bearing seats
a light coating of oil.
N o t e : At assembly, the outer pinion housing bearing must be flush with the bearing bore on the
inside of the housing; the intermediate bearing
must be flush with the bearing bore on the side
toward the armature.
b. Brushes should be correctly installed and connected as outlined in Par. H-98 in order to be sure
of proper starting motor efficiency.
c. Assemble the armature bearing plate and Bendix
Folo-Thru Drive to the drive end frame. Install
the two holding cap screws and lock washers.
Tighten them securely.
205
H
ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
and the internal connection of the motor for high
resistance. The Bendix Folo-Thru-Drive should be
checked for correct operation. The Bendix pinion
should be checked to see that it shifts when the
motor is operated under no load.
H-105. B e n d i x F o l o - T h r u D r i v e ( P r e s t o l i t e )
The Bendix Folo-Thru Drive is designed to overcome premature demeshing of the drive pinion
from the flywheel ring gear until a predetermined
engine speed is reached. See Fig. H-43.
No repairs or adjustments are possible on this
drive and a complete new unit must be installed
if trouble develops.
H-106. L u b r i c a t i o n o f F o l o - T h r u D r i v e
FIG. H-42—GROWLER
d . Install the armature in starter motor frame,
using care to align the four brushes and brush
springs on the commutator so that they are free to
move and are square on the commutator.
e. Install the thrust washer on the shaft. Lubricate
the plug and bearing in the end plate. Install the
end plate. Install the two through bolts and tighten
securely.
f. On Prestolite V6 starting motors, check pinion
position by measuring from the centerline of the
pinion housing mounting bolt holes to the outside
edge of the pinion. Correct measurement with the
Bendix drive retracted is
[19,05 mm.] to
% " [22,23 mm.]; with drive extended, 1%"
[34,93 mm.] to 1^" [38,10]. Adjust by installing
thrust washers just inside the commutator end
head or intermediate bearing as required. The
Bendix drive retaining pin must not project
beyond the outside diameter of the pinion sleeve.
H-104. Bench T e s t
The motor should first be checked to see that the
free running voltage and current are within specifications. To test, connect the motor to a battery,
ammeter and voltmeter. I f the current is too high
check the bearing alignment and end play to make
sure there is no binding or interference. Using a
spring scale and torque arm check the stall torque
to see that the motor is producing its rated cranking power. The stall torque will be product of the
spring scale reading and the length of the arm
in feet. I f the torque is not up to specifications
check the seating of the brushes on the commutator
206
A periodic cleaning and relubrication of the drive
is advisable, the frequency of which will depend on
the type of service to which the vehicle is subjected and the locale of operation.
a . Remove the starting motor from the engine and
take off the outboard housing. The pinion and
barrel assembly will be in the demeshed position
on the screwshaft. D o n o t move it forward u n t i l
a f t e r that portion of the armature shaft ahead
of the pinion has been cleaned. I f accidentally rotated to the outer end of the screwshaft it will
lock in that position and cannot be forced back.
b. Do not disassemble the drive for any reason.
c . Do not dip or wash the drive in any cleaning
solution.
d . Do not remove the drive from the armature
shaft. Remove excess oil, grease or foreign matter
from the armature shaft by wiping it with a clean
cloth.
3
10859
FIG. H-43—BENDIX FOLO-THRU
DRIVE
Dampen the cloth with kerosene if necessary. A
light film of S A E 10 oil may then be applied to the
shaft.
e. Now rotate the pinion and barrel assembly to the
fully extended position, thereby exposing the screwshaft triple threads. Use a cloth dampened with
kerosene to wipe them clean. D o n o t u s e g a s o l i n e o r a n y c o m m e r c i a l c l e a n e r . I f the dirt is
thick and gummy, apply the kerosene with a small
brush. Tilt the starting motor so that a small
amount will run under the control nut. Relubricate
with a thin film of S A E 10 oil. Use S A E 5 at extremely low temperatures.
f. Reassemble the starting motor to the engine with
the drive in the extended position. Carefully mesh
the pinion with the flywheel ring gear before
tightening the starter motor mounting bolts. I t may
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
H
require a slight rotation of the pinion to index it
into the ring gear. When the engine starts the drive
pinion will automatically demesh from the ring
gear and return to its normal position.
H-107. Starter Solenoid Switch (Prestolite)
• Refer to Figs. H-44 and H-45.
Should a starting motor fail to deliver maximum
power the fault may be due to voltage drop at the
starting switch contacts due to corrosion or burning. Check the switch by comparing the voltage
at the battery terminals and that at the starting
FIG. H-46—PRESTOLITE STARTER
AND SOLENOID—V-6 E N G I N E
13407
FIG.
H-44—STARTER
SOLENOID—HURRICANE
F4
switch terminals. The voltage drop should not
exceed .05 volts per 100 amperes.
Should it be impossible to file the switch contact
plates to obtain a clean full surface contact the
switch should be replaced.
Current model starting switches are of the
solenoid type, mounted directly on the starting
motors. This type switch is energized by turning
the ignition key to the extreme right position.
Should a solenoid switch fail in service it is necessary to install a new solenoid assembly,
a. To remove the solenoid switch first remove the
nut and lock washer securing the solenoid strap to
the starter post. Then remove nut and lock washer
securing battery positive cable to solenoid post.
Tape end of battery cable to eliminate the pos-
207
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
sibility of the cable shorting at the engine or frame.
Remove nut and lock washer securing the ignition
wire to the solenoid post and remove the two
screws and lock washers securing the solenoid to
the starter frame. Remove the switch,
b. To install the solenoid switch reverse the removal procedure given above.
H-10S. S T A R T I N G M O T O R — D E L C O
DAUNTLESS V-6 E N G I N E
Refer to Fig. H-45.
The starting motor used on the Dauntless V-6 engine has an integral solenoid switch and enclosed
shift lever which first shifts the overrunning clutch
pinion into engagement with the ring gear on the
flywheel of the engine and then closes the electrical
circuit to cause engine cranking. When the engine
starts, the overrunning clutch disengages to prevent transfer of engine speed to the starting motor.
retainer toward armature to expose snap ring as
shown in Fig. H-47. Remove snap ring from groove
in shaft; slide retainer and pinion drive assembly
from shaft. Remove assist spring from shaft,
f. Remove two screws holding solenoid switch to
drive housing remove switch. Remove small nut
and insulating washer from the solenoid S terminal.
Remove nut and insulating washer from the solenoid battery (large) terminal. Remove two screws
that attach switch cover to solenoid and remove
cover for inspection of switch parts. Remove shift
lever fulcrum bolt and remove shift lever, plunger,
and return spring.
N o t e : Should a service replacement starter motor
be required the factory recommends replacement
with original equipment parts; however, should the
need arise an existing starter motor (Delco or
Prestolite) could be replaced with the current
Delco-Remy starter, model 1108375, with the
following modifications to the wiring harness. If
the existing starter motor wiring harness does not
provide a 12 ga. purple conduit wire, (connects the
ignition switch to the starter motor) then a 12 ga.
purple conduit wire 70 inches long, must be installed. Should the existing starter motor wiring
harness contain a 16 ga. light blue conduit wire,
(connects the ignition switch and starter motor)
bend this wire back and tape out of the way.
H-109. S t a r t i n g M o t o r D i s a s s e m b l y
a . Before removing the starting motor from the
engine, disconnect leads and cover battery lead
terminal with piece of hose or tape to prevent
short circuiting. Note locations of wiring connections to assure proper reconnection. Remove the
cap screw that secures the starting motor to the
angle bracket on the side of the engine. Remove
the two cap screws that secure the drive end of
the starting motor to the cylinder block; remove
the starting motor.
b. Remove terminal nut and disconnect field lead,
which passes through grommet at top of motor,
from motor terminal of solenoid. Remove two thru
bolts from motor. Remove commutator end frame
and field frame assembly from solenoid and drive
assembly.
e. Pull out pivot pins of brush holders and remove
each of two brush holder and spring assemblies
from field housing. Remove screws which attach
brushes and leads to holders.
d . Remove armature and drive assembly from
drive housing. Remove thrust collar from pinion
end of armature shaft. Remove leather thrust
washer from opposite end of shaft.
e. To separate drive assembly from armature, place
a metal cylinder of proper size (J^" [12,7 mm.]
pipe coupling is satisfactory) over end of armature
shaft to bear against the pinion stop retainer. Tap
208
12765
FIG. H-47—REMOVING PINION D R I V E ASSEMBLY
FROM ARMATURE SHAFT
X
1— A ' Pipe Coupling
2— Snap Ring and Retainer
3— Armature Shaft
4— Drive Assembly
H-110. Starting M o t o r Cleaning and
Inspection
a. Wipe all parts clean with clean cloths. The armature, field coils, and drive assembly must not be
cleaned by any degreasing or high temperature
method. This might damage insulation so that a
short circuit or ground would subsequently develop.
It would also remove lubricant originally packed
in the overrunning clutch so that clutch would
soon be ruined.
b. Carefully inspect all parts visually for wear or
damage. Make necessary repairs or replace unserviceable parts. Any soldering must be done with
rosin flux.
N o t e : Never use acid flux when solding any electrical connections and never use emery cloth to
clean armature commutator or other electrical units.
H
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
H-111. Brushes
Check brush length. I f brushes are worn to onehalf their original length, replace them. Also check
for cracks, chips, damaged mounting holes, oil
saturation, or other damage; replace brushes.
H-112. C o m m u t a t o r
Check the commutator for wear and discoloration.
If the commutator is rough or worn the armature
should be removed and the commutator turned
down in a lathe. A discolored commutator should
be cleaned with carbon tetrachloride and inspected.
Scratches on the commutator may be removed
with sand paper. Use compressed air to remove
sand particles after cleaning.
H-113. Armature
Visually inspect the armature for mechanical
defects before checking for shorted or grounded
coils. Use a set of test probes for testing armature
circuits. To test the armature for grounds, touch
one point of the test probes to a commutator segment and touch the other point to the core or shaft.
Do not touch the points to the bearing surface or
to the brush surface as the arc formed will burn
the smooth finish. If the lamp lights, the coil connected to the commutator segment is grounded.
H-114. Field Coils
Using test probes, check the field coils for both
ground and open circuits. To test for ground, place
one probe on the motor frame or pole piece and
touch the other probe to the field coil terminals.
If a ground is present, the lamp will light.
To test for open circuits, place the probes on the
field coil terminal and on an insulated brush. If
the light does not light, the coil is open circuited.
H-115. Brush Holder Inspection
Inspect brush holders for distortion, wear, and other
damage. Check that brush holders pivot freely on
their pivot pins. Check brush spring tension with
a spring scale. Hook the spring scale under the
brush holder at the brush and pull on a line parallel to the side of the brush. Note scale reading just
as brush leaves commutator. Tension must be 35
oz. [9,925 kg.] minimum. Replace brush springs
if tension is insufficient.
H-116. Solenoid Coils
Check solenoid coil as follows:
a. Remove screw from motor terminal of solenoid
and bend field coil leads away from terminal. Connect terminal to ground with a heavy jumper wire.
See Fig. H-48.
b. Connect a 12-volt battery, a high-current variable resistance, and an ammeter of 100 amperes
capacity in series between S terminal of solenoid
and ground; battery negative is to be connected
to ground. Connect a heavy jumper wire from
solenoid base to ground terminal of battery. Connect a voltmeter between base of solenoid and
small S terminal of solenoid. Refer to Fig. H-48.
12455
F I G . H-48—TEST CONNECTIONS,
STARTER SOLENOID COIL
1— S Terminal
2— Solenoid
3— Ground Connection
4—Voltmeter
5—Ammeter
6— 12-Volt Battery
7—Ground Connection*
c. Slowly decrease resistance until voltmeter reading increases to 10 volts. Note ammeter reading.
This is current drawn by both windings in parallel ;
it should be 42 to 49 amperes at 10 volts, with
solenoid at room temperature.
d. Disconnect jumper wire from motor terminal
of solenoid. Increase resistance until voltmeter
reads 10 volts; note ammeter reading. This is current drawn by hold-in winding only; it should be
10.5 to 12.5 amperes at 10 volts, with solenoid at
room temperature.
e. If solenoid windings do not rest within specifications given, replace solenoid switch assembly.
H-117. Starting Motor Reassembly
a. Lubricate shift lever linkage and fasten in drive
housing with lever stud.
C a u t i o n : Do not lubricate solenoid plunger or
solenoid cylinder.
b. Install return spring on solenoid plunger and
insert plunger into solenoid cylinder. Apply sealing
compound on both sides of solenoid flange where it
extends between drive housing and field frame.
Attach plunger to shift lever with fulcrum pin.
Fasten solenoid to drive housing with two mounting screws.
c. Lubricate armature shaft with silicone grease.
Install assist spring and drive assembly on shaft
with pinion outward.
d. Install pinion stop retainer on armature shaft
with recessed side outward. Place a new snap ring
on drive end of shaft and hold it in place with a
hard wood block. Strike block with hammer to
force snap ring over end of shaft; slide the ring
down into groove in shaft. See Fig. H-49, left hand
view.
209
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
FIG. H-49—INSTALLING PINION
STOP R E T A I N E R A N D T H R U S T
COLLAR ON A R M A T U R E SHAFT
1— Retainer
2—Snap Ring
3—Thrust Collar
4— Drive Assembly
5—Retainer
6—Groove in Armature Shaft
7—Snap Ring
e. Place thrust collar on armature shaft with
shoulder next to snap ring. Move the retainer
into contact with ring. Using pliers on opposite
sides of shaft, squeeze retainer and thrust collar
together until snap ring is forced into the retainer.
See Fig. H-49, right hand view.
f. Lubricate bearing of drive housing with silicone
grease and install armature and drive assembly
in housing.
g. If field coils were removed from field frame,
position coils of replacement field coil assembly
on pole shoes and mount each pole shoe in field
frame with a pole shoe screw. Use care in tightening screws to avoid distortion of parts. Be certain
that screws are securely tightened. Insert ends of
field coil leads through rubber bushing in field
frame.
h . Position field frame assembly over armature assembly so that its dowel pin engages the hole in
drive housing. Use care to prevent damage to
brushes and brush holders. Make sure that brushes
are properly sealed on commutator.
i. Install leather thrust washer on commutator end
of armature assembly. Lubricate bearing in commutator end frame with silicone grease and position
end frame to field frame so that armature shaft
enters bearing. Secure field frame and end frame
to drive housing with two thru bolts. Connect field
leads to motor terminal of solenoid with connecting nut.
j . Whenever the starting motor is disassembled
and reassembled, the pinion clearance should be
checked. This is to make sure that proper clearance exists between the pinion and the pinion
stop retainer when pinion is in cranking position.
Lack of clearance would prevent solenoid starter
switch from closing properly; too much clearance
would cause improper pinion engagement in ring
gear.
k. Supply 6 volts (3 battery cells or a 6-volt battery) between S terminal of the solenoid and
ground (starter frame).
210
C a u t i o n : Do not supply more than 6 volts or the
motor will operate. As a further precaution to
prevent motor operation, connect a heavy jumper
wire from the solenoid motor terminal to ground.
I. After energizing the solenoid, push the drive assembly away from the stop retainer as far as possible and use a feeler gauge to check clearance
between pinion and retainer. See Fig. H-50. I f
pinion clearance is not .010" to .140" [0,25 a 3,55
mm.], there is either excessive wear or improper assembly of solenoid linkage or shift lever mechanism.
12771
FIG. H-50—MEASURING
PINION C L E A R A N C E
1—Press Rearward
2— Pinion
3—Retainer
4— .010* to .140* Clearance
5—Feeler Gauge
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Note: Pinion clearance cannot be adjusted. If
clearance is not correct, motor must be disassembled and checked for the above mentioned defects.
Any defective parts must be replaced.
H-118. Starting Motor T e s t — Genera!
To obtain full performance data on a starting
motor, or to determine the cause of abnormal
operation, the motor should be submitted to noload and locked armature tests, with equipment
designed for such tests. A high-current variable
resistance is required to obtain the specified voltage at the starting motor. This is necessary since
a small variation in the voltage will produce a
marked difference in the current drawn.
H-119. Starting Motor No-Load Test
This test requires a D C voltmeter capable of reading voltages in a 12-volt circuit, a D C ammeter
with maximum range of several hundred amperes,
a high-current variable resistance, an rpm. indicator, and a fully-charged, 12-volt battery.
a. Connect a jumper lead between S terminal
and large battery terminal of starter solenoid. Connect voltmeter between either of these terminals
(positive) and motor frame (negative, ground).
Connect ammeter and variable resistance in series
between positive terminal of battery and battery
terminal of solenoid. Set up rpm. indicator to show
starting motor speed.
b. Initially, adjust variable resistance to a value of
approximately .25 ohm. To complete the circuit,
connect negative terminal of battery to motor
frame. Adjust variable resistance to obtain a voltmeter reading of 10.6 volts; note speed of starting
motor and ammeter reading. Motor speed should
be 6750 to 10,500 rpm.; ammeter reading should
be 50 to 80 amperes.
c. Rated speed and current indicate normal condition of the starting motor. Low speed and high current may show friction; this could be caused by
tight, dirty, or worn bearings, bent armature shaft,
or a loose field pole shoe dragging against the
armature. It could also be caused by a short-circuited armature, or by grounded armature or field
coils.
d. Failure to operate and high current indicates
a direct short circuit to ground at either the battery
terminal or field coils.
e. Failure to operate and no current are usually
caused by broken brush springs, worn brushes, high
insulation between commutator bars, or some other
condition preventing good contact between the
brushes and commutator. I t can also be caused by
open circuit in either the field coils or armature
coils.
f. Low speed and low current show high resistance
due to poor connections, defective leads, dirty commutator, or one of the conditions mentioned in e,
above.
g. High speed and high current indicates a short
circuit in the field coils.
H
H-120- Locked Armature Test
This test requires a D C voltmeter with range appropriate to read voltages in a 12-volt circuit, a D C
ammeter with maximum range of several hundred
amperes, a high-current variable resistance, a
clamping fixture to lock together the motor shaft
and case, and a fully-charged 12-volt battery.
a. Connect a jumper lead between S terminal and
large battery terminal of starter solenoid. Connect
voltmeter between either of these terminals (positive) and motor frame (negative, ground). Connect
ammeter and variable resistance in series between
positive terminal of battery and battery terminal
of solenoid. Install clamping fixture to lock motor
shaft and case together securely.
b. Initially, adjust variable resistance to approximately .05 ohm. To complete the circuit, connect
negative terminal of battery to motor frame. Adjust variable resistance to obtain a voltmeter reading of 4.0 volts. Ammeter reading should be 280
to 320 amperes.
H-121. Solenoid Starter Switch — Delco
The solenoid-type switch is mounted directly on
the starting motor. This type of switch is energized
by turning the ignition key to the extreme right
position. Should the solenoid switch fail in service
it is necessary to install a new assembly.
Should a starting motor fail to deliver maximum
power the fault may be due to voltage drop at the
starter switch contacts due to corrosion or burning.
Check the switch by comparing the voltage at the
battery across the terminals. The voltage drop
should not exceed .05 volts per 100 amperes.
In order to remove the starter solenoid, it is necessary to remove the starter assembly.
H-122. E L E C T R I C A L I N S T R U M E N T S
H-123. Fuel Gauge — C J - 3 B
The fuel gauge circuit is composed of the indicating
unit, mounted on the instrument panel, and the
fuel tank unit, connected by a single wire through
the ignition switch.
Should the gauge fail to register, check all wire connections to be sure they are tight and clean; also
be sure both units are well grounded. If, after this
check, the gauge does not indicate properly, remove
the wire from the tank unit and connect it to a
new tank unit which must be grounded to the tank
or frame for test. Turn the ignition switch " O N "
and move the float arm through its range of travel,
watching the dash unit to determine if it indicates
correctly. If it fails to do so the trouble is probably
in the dash unit and it should be replaced.
Should a new tank unit be unavailable for this test,
disconnect tank unit wire at the instrument panel
gauge. Connect one lead of a 12 V, 1 C P test light
to the instrument panel unit terminal and with the
ignition switch "ON" ground the other lead. I f the
unit is operating correctly the pointer will move
approximately three-quarter across the dial.
Do not attempt to repair either unit; replacement
is the only precedure.
211
H
ELECTRICAL
H-124. Testing Indicators and Gauges
Two gauges (fuel and temperature) and two indicators (oil pressure and battery charge) that are
located in the instrument cluster are electrically
operated.
The fuel gauge is connected by a single wire to a
float-and-slide-rheostat sending unit in the fuel
tank.
The temperature gauge is connected by a single
wire to a resistance-type sending unit mounted
on the engine.
The battery charge indicator operates when there
is a difference in potential between the generator
and the battery .The battery charge indicator lights
when the generator is not charging the battery. The
indicator light goes out when the generator begins
to charge the battery.
The oil pressure indicator is connected by a single
wire to a diaphragm switch located on the engine.
When engine oil pressure is low or zero and the
ignition switch is on, the oil pressure indicator will
light. When engine speed is increased slightly above
idle speed, raising the oil pressure to approximately
6 psi. [0,2 kg-cm ], the diaphragm switch will
open the circuit and the indicator light will go out.
A voltage regulator maintains a constant voltage to
the gauges in normal operation. On early vehicles,
this voltage regulator was mounted on the rear of
the instrument cluster. On current vehicles, the
voltage regulator is integral with the fuel gauge.
Should trouble develop in the gauges, first check the
regulator (fuel gauge on current production
vehicle). I f the voltage to the regulator is below
10 volts system low gauge readings will result.
Voltage in excess of 16 volts will not affect gauge
readings but may result in premature wear of the
regulator contacts. I f the voltage to the regulator is
within the above limits, check the electrical connections to the regulator (or fuel gauge), especially
the ground connection. I f the readings of all the
gauges is too high, or they all read too low, replace
the regulator (or fuel gauge).
2
If the temperature gauge or heat indicator in the
instrument cluster have failed, the cause may
originate from the jumper bar shorting out against
the instrument case. Check the jumper bar between
the temperature gauge and heat indicator at the
rear of the instrument case. On later production
vehicles, the jumper bar is covered with an insulating sleeve to protect it from shorting out
against the instrument case. I f the jumper bar
does not have this sleeve, either install one or
wrap the bar with plastic electrical tape to half
an inch [12,7 mm.] from each end. When installing
the jumper bar, be sure the curved segment is
closest to the fuel gauge.
Should only one of the two gauges register incorrectly, check the lead wire from the gauge to the
sending unit for shorts or open connections. Next
disconnect the gauge from the sending unit, and
connect the gauge to a new fuel tank sending unit
which has been grounded to the vehicle. If the gauge
registers incorrectly when operating the new unit,
replace the gauge; if correctly, replace the sending
unit.
Should a new fuel tank unit not be available for
212
SYSTEM
testing, use a 12-volt test light in its place. When
the gauge is operating correctly, the pointer will
move approximately three-quarters across the dial.
On some vehicles, the temperature gauge may
register on or close to the H (hot) mark when
coolant temperature is 190°F. to 200°F. [88°C. a
93°C.]. I n such cases, a 25-ohm, 1-watt resistor
may be installed on the temperature gauge which
will place the pointer just beyond the center mark
at a coolant temperature of 190°F. to 200°F. Install
the resistor between the two terminals on the back
of the gauge. Insulate the exposed leads of the
resistor with electrical tape.
If the oil pressure indicator does not indicate correctly, first check the light bulb. Next check all
connections and lead wires. If, after all possible
defects are corrected, the indicator light does not
go on and off properly, then the diaphragm type
switch in the cylinder block should be replaced.
H-12S. L I G H T I N G S Y S T E M
The wiring of the lighting systems is shown in
the wiring diagrams, which indicate the various
units in relation to their positions in the vehicle.
The wires in the various circuits are of different
colors or are marked by tracers to aid when checking individual circuits.
The lighting circuits of all models are protected by
an overload circuit breaker mounted on the back
of the main light switch and no replaceable fuse is
required.
The upper and lower headlight beams are controlled by a foot switch located on the toe board
to the left of the clutch pedal.
H-126. Main Light Switch
This switch is a dual functioning unit having two
push-pull positions and a rotary action. When
pulled out to the first position, the front parking
and tail lights are turned on. When pulled all the
way out to the second position, the headlights and
tail lights are turned on. Rotating the switch to
the right dims the instrument cluster lighting.
The switch may be removed from the instrument
panel by first loosening the set screw in the control
knob and removing the knob. The retaining nut
may then be removed and the switch removed
through the rear of the instrument panel.
FIG.
H-51—MAIN L I G H T S W I T C H ( E A R L Y )
1—Battery
4—Parking Lights
2— Rear Lights
5—Auxiliary
3— Head Lights
H
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
H-128. S t o p L i g h t S w i t c h
The stop light switch is of the diaphragm type.
Should the switch become inoperative, it is necessary to install a new one. Current production
vehicles are equipped with two stop light switches
that operate independently of each other. Both
switches are located along the left side of frame, in
the front and rear brake lines.
F I G . H-52—MAIN L I G H T SWITCH
(LATE)
1— Circuit Breaker
2— L i g h t Switch
3— Rear Lights
4—Head Lights
5—Parking Lights
C a u t i o n : Do not apply the brakes while making
this exchange as air may enter the hydraulic line.
Bleed the brakes after replacing the switch.
Fig. H-54 shows the wiring of the stop light circuit.
The light switch shown in Fig. H-51 was superseded
by the one shown in Fig. H-52.
H-127. H e a d l i g h t D i m m e r S w i t c h
To remove the headlight dimmer switch, first raise
the hood and disconnect the wires attached to the
switch. Then remove the two screws that hold the
dimmer switch to the floor board. Remove the
switch. Check the operation of the dimmer switch
with a test light. A circuit across two different pairs
of contacts (one to headlights, the other to the
high-beam indicator light) should alternately light
the test lamp when the switch is operated.
F I G . H-54—STOP L I G H T
CIRCUIT
1—Stop Light Switch
2— Light Switch
3— Tail Light
H-129. H e a d L a m p S e r v i c e
H-130. H e a d L a m p R e p l a c e m e n t
11500
F I G . H-53—STOP L I G H T
SWITCH
Refer to Fig. H-59.
Each sealed beam head lamp can only be replaced
as a complete unit.
A sealed beam unit may be replaced by the following procedure:
a . Remove door screw.
b. Remove door.
c . Remove retaining screws and retaining ring.
d . Remove sealed beam unit.
Installation of sealed beam unit is the reverse of
above procedure. When replacing head lamps,
check lamp aim following procedures described in
Par. H-132.
F I G . H-55—PARKING
LIGHT (EARLY)
1— Bezel
2— Lens
3— Bulb
4—Gasket
5— Housing and Cable
6— Screw
213
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
14379
FIG. H-56—PARKING AND
1— Screw
2—Lens
SIGNAL LIGHT (LATE)
5— Cable
3—Gasket
6— Housing
4— Bulb
H-131. Head L a m p Aiming Preparation
All Jeep Universal-series lamps must be aimed on
the low beam. Lamps may be aimed either with
mechanical aimers or by using a screen. I f mechanical aimers C-3674 are used, follow instruction
supplied with the aiming equipment. I f a screen is
to be used, preparation for aiming is as follows:
a. Locate the vehicle in a darkened area with a
level floor area and with a screen (may be a wall)
having a nonreflecting white surface. A reference
line should be marked on the floor 25 feet [7,62 m.]
away from and parallel to the screen. Position the
vehicle perpendicular to the screen and with the
front head lamps directly over the reference line.
b. Locate the middle tape on the screen so that
it is aligned with the center line of the vehicle.
c. Equalize all tire pressures.
d. Rock the vehicle from side to side to equalize
springs and shock absorbers.
e. Measure the distance between vehicle head lamp
centers. Then, position marker tapes vertically on
the screen to the right and left of the middle tape
at half this distance.
f. Measure the distance from the center of each
lamp to the surface on which the vehicle rests.
Position a marker tape horizontally on the screen
F I G . H-57—TAIL, STOP
AND
DIRECTIONAL LIGHT
1— Screw
2— Lens
3—Gasket
4— Bulb
5— Housing and Cable Assembly
6— Nut and Lockwasher
F I G . H-58—TAIL
AND
STOP L I G H T ( E A R L Y )
1 —Ring
2—Lens
3— Gasket
4—Retainer
5—Bulb
6— Gasket
7—Housing and Socket
10441
214
H
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
F I G . H-59—HEAD L A M P
1— Door
2— Retaining Screw
3— Retaining Ring
4— Sealed Beam Unit
5—Mounting Ring
6—Adjusting Screw
7— Housing
8— Wires
9—Door Screw
310669
to
of
g.
h.
cross the vertical tapes at the measured height
each lamp center respectively.
Remove the head lamp doors.
Clean the head lamps.
H-132. A i m i n g H e a d L a m p s
a . Turn the headlights on low beam. Cover the
lamp not being aimed. Be sure to use the horizontal
reference line on the screen that is the same dimension as the vehicle lamp height.
b. Turn the vertical aiming screw counterclockwise until the lamp beam is considerably lower
than the horizontal reference line on the screen.
Then, turn the screw clockwise until the top edge
of the high intensity area is even with the horizontal
line. See Fig. H-60.
(T)
JT)
I
screw clockwise until the left edge of the high
intensity area is 2" [5,08 cm.] to the right of the
lamp center line. See Fig. H-60.
d . Cover the lamp that has been aimed and aim
the other lamp using the same procedure.
e. Carefully reinstall the head lamp doors.
H-133. P a r k i n g a n d T u r n S i g n a l L i g h t
The parking lights are mounted in the radiator
guard panel just below the headlights. These lights
are on only when the main switch control knob is
pulled out to the first notch.
To replace a parking lamp, remove two screws
allowing the lens and colored reflector to be removed. Replace the lamp, which is recessed back
in the housing.
If the complete parking light assembly is to be
removed for service or replacement, disconnect the
wire plug at the back of the housing. Then remove
the nuts and lock washers securing the parking
light assembly and remove out the front of the
panel.
H-134. T a i l , S t o p a n d T u r n S i g n a l L i g h t
1'.' | '':'
11460
FIG. H-60—HEADLIGHT AIMING CHART
1—Vertical Tape, Left Lamp Center
2— Vehicle Centerline
3——Vertical Tape, Right Lamp Center
4—Zone of Greatest Intensity
5— 2 * (Two Inches)
6— 25'0 '
7— 2 * (Two Inches)
8—Height of Lamp Centers
9—Horizontal Tape
N o t e : Always bring the beam into final position
by turning both aiming screws clockwise so that
the unit is held under proper tension when the
operation is complete.
c. Turn the horizontal aiming screw counterclockwise until the beam is off. Then, turn the same
Refer to Fig. H-57 and H-58.
The tail lights are mounted in the rear corner posts
of the body. They are on whenever the main switch
control knob is pulled out to any position.
a . To replace a lamp, remove the snap ring on
early models and remove the lens; on late models
remove lens screws, lens and gasket. Clean lens
and reflector before replacing.
b. To remove the parking and tail light housing,
disconnect wiring, remove the two nuts and lock
washers securing tail light assembly to body and
remove from rear of body.
H-135- B a c k u p L i g h t s
• Refer to Fig. H-61.
The backup lights on late production vehicles are
located on the rear of the vehicle directly below
the tail light. The backup lights are actuated
through a switch when the ignition is on and the
transmission is in reverse.
215
ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM
14385
FIG.
H-61—BACK-UP
LIGHT
1— Snap Ring
2— Lens
3— Gasket
4— Bulb
5— Housing and Cable
11087
On late production T14A transmissions the backup
light switch is threaded into the right rear corner
of the cover housing and is activated by the movement of the reverse shift rail.
The backup light switch is not serviceable and
must be replaced if defective.
Bulbs can be replaced by removing the snap ring,
lens and gasket from the assembly.
H-136. License Plate Light
On CJ-5A, CJ-6A and current production vehicles
the license plate light is attached to the tailgate
and is of the swing-type design to enable the
license plate to be visible when the tailgate is in
the down psoition. The bulb can be changed by
removing the clear plastic lens. On early production
vehicles the license plate light is integral with the
tail light assembly.
H-137. H o r n
The horn is mounted under the hood on the left
front fender. The horn is sounded by pressing the
button located at the top center of the steering
wheel.
To remove the horn wire, disconnect the wire at
the snap connection at the base of the steering
column. Pull off the rubber horn button cap and
the brass contact cap from the steering wheel nut.
This will expose the contact tip of the horn wire.
Pull the wire out of the steering column from the
top. Refer to Fig. H-62.
FIG.
H-62—HORN
BUTTON
1— Cap
2— Nut
3 — Horn Button Spring Cup
4—Ferrule
5— Horn Cable
6— Contact Disc
7—Steering Wheel
8— Cup
9—Bearing Spring Seat
10—Steering Column
11— Tube
12— Bearing
13— Bearing Spring
14—Horn Button Spring
15— Retainer Spring
When trouble in the signal switch is suspected it
is advisable to make the following test to definitely
locate the trouble before going to the effort of
removing the signal switch. If, for example, the
right rear stop light and right front parking light
are inoperative and switch failure is indicated,
first put the control lever in neutral position. Then
disconnect the wire to the right side circuit and
touch it to or bridge it to the " L " terminal, thus
by-passing the signal switch. I f the right side cir-
H-13S. D i r e c t i o n a l S i g n a l s
Fig. H-63 shows the wiring of a composite directional signal circuit. The most frequent causes of failure
in the directional signal system are loose connections and burned-out bulbs. A flashing rate
approximately twice the normal rate usually indicates a burned-out bulb in the circuit.
216
10609
FIG.
H-63—DIRECTIONAL SIGNAL
1— Flasher
2— Ignition Switch
3— Control
CIRCUIT
4—Light Switch
5—Stop Light Switch
H
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
cuit lights, the signal switch is inoperative and
must be replaced.
H-139. Hazard Warning Lights
All current production vehicles are equipped with
a four-way flasher warning system. The control
switch is located on the instrument panel left of
the steering column. With the switch pulled out,
the two front and two rear turn signal lights flash
on and off simultaneously, as do both turn signal
indicator lights on the instrument clusters.
H-140. Marker Lights and
Reflector Assembly
The marker lights and reflector assemblies on
current production vehicles are mounted on the
side of the front fender and on the side of the rear
quarter panel. The spare wheel also mounts a
marker light. Some earlier production vehicles have
reflex reflectors mounted on the side of the hood and
on the side of the rear quarter panel.
H-141. Windshield Wiper System
Early production vehicles equipped with the
Dauntless V-6 engine have two single speed windshield wiper motors mounted above the windshield
inside the vehicle. The wiper motors are operated
and controlled by a switch located on the instrument panel.
Current production vehicles with stationary windshield have a two-speed electric windshield wiper
motor mounted below the windshield outside the
vehicle on the driver's side. The wiper motor switch
is located on the instrument panel to the left of
the steering column.
determine if dash wiper switch or wiring is at fault,
disconnect wiring harness from wiper motor and
try operating wiper independently of dash switch.
If still inoperative see procedure under Par. H-145.
b. Wiper will not shut off — Determine if wiper
has both low and high speeds, slow speed only, or
high speed only. I t is important that the wiper
operates at low speed during parking cycle. Disconnect wiring harness from wiper motor and try
operating wiper independently of dash switch. I f
wiper shuts off correctly with crank arm in park
position and wiper has both speeds, check the lead
between terminal and dash switch ground and
check for defective dash switch. I f wiper shuts off
correctly, but has high speed only, check lead between wiper terminal and dash switch for an open
circuit and check for defective dash switch. I f still
inoperative, see Par. H-145.
c. Wiper has only fast speed. Check for defective
dash switch or open lead between terminal and
dash switch.
PARK
BLACK
PARKING
SWITCH
GREEN * -
LOW
m~
HIGH
RED
< ^ ^ >
V ^ - O * '
F I G . H-64—WIRING D I A G R A M
H-142. Two-Speed Wiper Motor
The two-speed electric wiper motor is operated and
controlled by a turn type, three poled, dash switch,
containing a 6 amp. circuit breaker. Current flow
is directed from the battery through the ignition
switch to the wiper dash switch assembly to the
two-speed wiper motor, which passes current from
the designated motor brush (high, low or park) to
the armature circuit to ground.
H-143. Troubleshooting Procedure
Troubleshooting procedures are divided into two
categories: wiper troubleshooting in vehicle; wiper
troubleshooting on bench. Fig. H-65 and H-66
illustrates connecting leads of the two-speed wiper
for either bench operation or to run wiper independently of dash switch and vehicle wiring when
installed in the vehicle.
H-144. Wiper Troubleshooting in Vehicle
Typical wiper troubles and remedies are as follows :
a. Wiper is inoperative — Check wiper switch circuit breaker; wiring harness connection at wiper
motor and wiper switch; wiper motor feed wire
from ignition starter switch to wiper switch; and
check wiper on switch to be securely mounted.
With ignition switch on, check for 12 volts at harness terminal that connects to wiper terminal. To
FIG. H-65—WINDSHIELD WIPER
SWITCH ASSEMBLY (EARLY)
1. P a r k ( b l a c k )
2. Low (green)
3. High (red)
d. Wiper has only slow speed and shuts off with
dash switch in high speed position. Reverse harness
leads that connect to wiper terminals.
e. I f blades do not return to park position when
wiper is turned off, check wiper ground connection
to vehicle body. Remove wiper from vehicle and
check for dirty, bent, or broken park switch contacts.
f. I f wiper speed is normal in slow, but too excessive in fast speed, check for an open terminal.
217
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
FIG. H-66—WINDSHIELD WIPER
SWITCH ASSEMBLY (LATE)
B—Battery
1— Wiper 1
2— Wiper 1
3— Wiper 2
4—Wiper 2
5— Park
La
Hi
Lo
Hi
Speed
Speed
Speed
Speed
g. If wiper operates erratically, check for loose
wiper ground connection or loose dash switch
mounting.
H-145. Wiper Troubleshooting on Bench
Using ammeter, capable of reading at least 30
amperes, check feed wire circuit for open circuit.
a . I f wiper is inoperative, connect wiper to operate
in low speed and observe current draw. I f the reading is zero amp., check for loose solder connection
at wiper terminal or loose splice joints. If reading is
1 to 1.5 amp., check for open armature, sticking
brushes, or loose splice joint. I f reading is 11 amp.,
check for broken gear seized shaft or some other
condition that will stall the wiper.
b. I f wiper will not shut off, this condition may
exist if wiper has one or both speeds. I f wiper has
both speeds, check for park switch contacts not
opening or internal wiper motor lead that connects
to wiper terminal being grounded. I f wiper has low
speed only, check for internal wiper motor lead that
connects to wiper terminal being grounded. I f
wiper has high speed only, check for internal wiper
motor lead that connects to wiper terminal being
open.
c . I f wiper crank arm does not return to park
position when wiper is turned off, check for dirty,
bent to broken park switch contacts.
d . I f wiper operates erratically, check for sticky
brushes or loose splice joints.
e. I f the wiper will not shut off, or wiper crank arm
fails to stop in park position when jumper wire is
removed from terminal, check that park switch
contacts are opening. Also check for ground in internal motor lead that connects to terminal.
H-146. D i s a s s e m b l y of T w o - S p e e d
Wiper Motor
Refer to Fig. H-67.
a . Remove windshield wiper motor cover.
b. Disconnect drive arm from wiper linkage.
c . Disconnect wiring from wiper dash switch.
d . Remove wiper motor.
e. Loosen drive arm hardware and pry drive off
drive shaft.
218
f- Remove fastening screws, cover plate assembly
and gasket.
g. Remove parking plate and gear assembly.
h. Remove parking brushes, spring and bowed
washer from gear assembly.
i. Remove the two through bolts and mounting
bracket.
j . Remove the magnet housing, armature and end
cap as an assembly.
k. Tap end of armature shaft to loosen end cap
assembly and remove cap from armature shaft. Be
careful not to lose thrust disc, which is in end cap
bearing bore.
I. Remove armature from magnet housing. Care
should be taken to protect armature shaft bearing
journals.
m . Remove brushes and brush spring from brush
holders.
H-147. C l e a n i n g o f T w o - S p e e d W i p e r M o t o r
a . Clean magnet housing and armature with a cloth
dampened in cleaning solvent.
b. The following bearing equipped parts should
n o t be immersed in cleaning fluid:
1. Cover plate assembly.
2. Gear housing assembly.
3. E n d cap assembly.
The metal surfaces of these assemblies should be
cleaned with a brush dipped in cleaning solvent,
making certain that cleaning fluid does not contact
bearings.
c . Clean remaining parts with a brush and cleaning
solvent.
H-148. R e a s s e m b l y of T w o - S p e e d
Wiper Motor
Refer to Fig. H-67.
To reassemble motor, reverse the steps given in
Par. H-146.
When reassembling motor, fingers must be clean
when handling brushes. Hold brushes in the holders
by applying paper clips to brush shunts. Apply a
light film of lubricant to armature shaft ends,
armature worm gear and gear assembly shaft ends.
Remove paper clips after assembling armature to
gear housing. Align marks on magnet housing and
gear housing. Armature end play should be .002 .010".
Be sure to operate wiper to park position prior to
installing drive arm.
H - 1 4 9 . No L o a d T e s t i n g
Test the motor to meet the following specifications:
LOW S P E E D
HIGH
SPEED
R.P.M.
Ampere
Draw
(Max.)
R.P.M.
Ampere
Draw
(Max.)
42
2.75
62
3.75
H
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L SERIES SERVICE M A N U A L
a
F I G . H-67—-TWO-SPEED W I P E R
1 — B r u s h , Commutator — Grounded includes Terminal
2—Spring, brush — Commutator
3— Insulation Grommet, Cable
4— N u t , Locking — Set Screw
5— Screw, Set — armature E n d Play
6— Bearing, Gear Shaft
7— Spring, Parking Brush
MOTOR
8— Brush, Parking
9— N u t & Lockwasher, D r i v e A r m
10— Screw, Securing — D r i v e A r m
1 1 —A r m , D r i v e
12—Screw, Fastening — M o u n t i n g Plate
13— Gasket, M o u n t i n g Plate
14— Plate Assembly, Parking
15— Washer, Bowed
H-150. Major Electrical Component
Replacement
• Prestolite and Delco-Remy Components
a. Some Prestolite and Delco-Remy electrical
components may be intermixed on a vehicle as an
approved production practice. No attempt should
be made to convert to a complete Prestolite or
Delco-Remy system. Prestolite components should
be replaced by Prestolite components and DelcoRemy components should be replaced by DelcoRemy components insofar as availability of re-
0"—®
16— Gear Assembly
17— Brush, Commutator — Insulated
18—Armature Assembly
19—T h r u B o l t , Fastening — M o t o r Assembly
20— Cap Assembly, E n d — includes Bearing
2 1 — Disc, T h r u s t
placement components will allow. I n those cases,
however, where a component is being replaced w i t h
one produced by the other manufacturer, make
certain factory approved service instructions are
followed during these installations.
b. Distributor — No special instructions are required for interchanging Prestolite and DelcoRemy distributors on V6 models.
c. Starting Motor — Special instructions are required for interchanging Prestolite and DelcoRemy starting motors. See note following Par.
H-108.
219
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
H-15L SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
SYMPTOMS
Battery Discha rged:
Shorted Cell in Battery.........
Short in Wiring.. •
Generator Not Charging
,
Loose or Dirty Terminals
Excessive Use of Starter
Excessive Use of L i g h t s . . . . . .
Insufficient D r i v i n g . . . . . . . . .
Low Regulator S e t t i n g . . . . . . .
Stuck Cut-out in Regulator. . .
Low Electrolyte Level in Cells
Alternator:
FAILS TO C H A R G E :
Belt Loose
Open or High Resistance in
Charging or Ground Return
Circuit or Battery C o n n e c t i o n s . . . . . . . . . . . .
Excessively Worn, Open, or
Defective Brushes.
Open Isolation Diode.
Open Rotor (Field Coil)
LOW OR U N S T E A D Y C H A R G I N G R A T E :
Belt L o o s e . . . .
Intermittent or High Resistance
Charging or Ground Return
Circuit or Battery Connections
Excessively Worn, Sticky, or
Intermittent Brushes
Shorted or Open Rectifier Diode
Grounded or Shorted Turns in
Rotor (Field Coil)
Open, Grounded, or Shorted Turns
in Stator
PROBABLE REMEDY
Replace Battery
Check Wiring Circuit
Inspect Generator and Fan Belt
Clean and Tighten
Tune Engine
Check Battery
Recharge Battery
Correct Setting
Correct
Add Distilled Water
Tighten to Specifications
Test and Correct
Test Brushes and Replace if Necessary
Test and Replace if Necessary
Test and Replace if Necessary
Tighten to Specifications
Test and Correct
Test and Replace if Necessary
Test and Replace if Necessary
Test and Replace if Necessary
Test and Replace if Necessary
EXCESSIVE CHARGE RATE:
Loose Connections on A l t e r n a t o r . . . . . . . . . . .
Faulty Regulator
Check and Correct
Check and Correct
NOISY ALTERNATOR:
Defective or Badly Worn Belt
Misaligned Belt or Pulley
Loose Pulley
Worn Bearings.
Shorted Rectifiers
Replace
Align, Replace Parts as Necessary
Tighten
Replace Bearings as Necessary
Test and Replace as Necessary
Generator:
Low Charging Rate—
Dirty Commutator
Poor Brush Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Regulator Improperly A d j u s t e d . . . . . . .
High Resistance in Charging Circuit...
Ground Strap Engine to Frame Broken
Loose or Dirty Terminals
Slipping Generator Belt
Worn Out Brushes
Weak Brush Spring T e n s i o n . . . . . . . . . .
Out of Round Commutator
220
Clean Commutator
Repair or Install New Brushes
Adjust
Clean and Tighten Terminals
Replace
Clean and Tighten
Adjust Belt
Install New Brushes
Replace
Repair
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
H
H-151. SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—Continued
PROBABLE REMEDY
SYMPTOMS
Generator: (continued)
Fails To C h a r g e Open Charging Circuit
Sticking Brushes
Dirty or Burned Commutator
Grounded Commutator
Open Circuit in Field
Weak Soldering on Armature. .
Grounded Wiring
Defective Regulator. . .
...
.
Too High Charging Rate—
Regulator Improperly Adjusted
Short in Armature
Grounded Field-to-regulator Wire
Shorted Cell in B a t t e r y . . .
Correct
Repair or Replace
Clean Commutator
Replace
Replace
Repair
Repair
Replace Regulator
Adjust or Replace
Replace
Correct
Replace Battery
Starting Motor:
Slow Starter Speed—
Discharged Battery or Shorted Cell
Ground Strap Engine to Frame.
Loose or Dirty Terminals
Dirty Commutator
Worn Out Brushes
Weak Brush Spring Tension
Worn Bearings
Burned Starter Switch Contacts
Recharge or Repair
Clean Terminals and Tighten
Clean and Tighten
Clean with No. 00 Sandpaper
Install New Brushes
Replace
Replace
Replace Switch
Will Not Turn Engine—
Open Circuit at Starter
Solenoid Open or Stuck
Starter Switch Defective
Starter Drive Broken or Stuck.
Battery Discharged
Correct
Replace Solenoid
Replace Switch
Repair or Replace
Recharge Battery
Distributor:
Hard Starting—
Distributor Points Burned or Pitted
Breaker Arm Stuck on Pivot P i n . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Breaker Arm Spring Weak
Points Improperly Adjusted
Spark Plug Points Improperly Set
Spark Plug Wire Terminals in Distributor
Cap Corroded
Loose Terminals
Loose or Dirty Terminals on Ground Strap—
Engine to Frame.
Condenser Faulty
Improper Ignition Timing
Clean Points or Replace (Adjust)
Clean and Lubricate
Replace
Adjust
Adjust
Clean
Check Circuit
Clean and Tighten
Replace
Set Timing
Lights:
Burn Dim—
Loose or Dirty T e r m i n a l s . . . . . . .
Leak in Wires.
Poor Switch Contact
Poor Ground Connection
Aim Headlamp Beams.
........
Clean and Tighten
Check Entire Circuit for Broken Insulation
Install New Switch
Clean and Tighten
Use Aiming Chart
221
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
H-151. SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—Continued
SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE REMEDY
Horn Fails to Sound:
Broken or Loose Electrical Connection
Battery Low or Dead
Contact Points Burned or Broken Off.
Check Wiring and Connections at Horn Button and
Battery—Clean and Tighten
Check Battery
Replace Parts Necessary
Horn Sounds Unsatisfactory Tone:
Poor Electrical Connection
Battery Low
Loose Cover and Bracket Screws
Voltage at Horn too High or too Low
222
Check Connections at Horn, Horn Button, Battery
Check with Hydrometer
Tighten Bracket Bolts at Horn
Check with Voltmeter
H
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
H-152. E L E C T R I C A L SPECIFICATIONS
MODEL
HURRICANE
F4 E N G I N E
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
BATTERY:
Make
Model
Hour Rating.
Voltage
Terminal Ground
Prestolite
H S 11-50
50 Ampere-hour
12-volts
Negative
Prestolite
H S 11-50
50 Ampere-hour
12-volts
Negative
1.260
1.225
Engine CompartmentRight Rear
1.260
1.225
Engine CompartmentRight Rear
Prestolite
GJP-7402A
Negative
35 amp.
C V Regulator
.003" to .010"
[0,076 a 0,25 mm.]
2
18 to 36 oz.
[510 a 1020 gr.]
Prestolite
GJP-7402A
Negative
35 amp.
C V Regulator
.003" to .010"
[0,076 a 0,25 mm.]
2
18 to 36 oz.
[510 a 1020 gr.]
SPECIFIC GRAVITY:
F u l l y Charged
Recharged A t
Location
GENERATOR:
Make.
Model
Ground Polarity
Controlled Output
Control
Armature E n d P l a y
Brushes
Brush Spring Tension
REGULATOR:
Make
Model:
For G J P 7202, G J P 7402A
Type
Cutout Relay:
Closing Voltage @
Generator r p m . . . . . . . . . .
Reverse Current to Open.
Regulated Voltage
Regulated Current
ALTERNATOR:
Make
Model
Ground Polarity
Rated Output
Rated Field Coil Draw
At 70°F. and 10-volt
Capacitor Capacity
REGULATOR:
Make
Model
Type
STARTING MOTOR:
Make
Model
Brush Spring Tension
LOCK TEST:
Temperature
Amp. (Max.)
Volt
Stall Torque (Min.)
NO L O A D T E S T :
Tempesature
Amp. (Max.)
Volt
Rpm. (Min.)
DRIVE:
Type
COIL:
Make.
Model
Primary Resistance
Secondary Resistance
Prestolite
Prestolite
VBO-4201E-4A
Vibrator
VBO-4201E-4A
Vibrator
12.6 to 13.6 @ 1325
3 to 5 amp.
14.2 to 14.4
36 amp. max.
12.6 to 13.6 @ 1325
3 to 5 amp.
14.2 to 14.4
36 amp. max.
Motorola
A12 N W 526
Negative
35 amp.
Motorola
A12 N W 528
Negative
35 amp.
1.7 to 2.3 amp.
.1 mfd.
1.7 to 2.3 amp.
.1 mfd.
Motorola
R-2-K-1
Transistor
Motorola
R-2-K-1
Transistor
Prestolite
MDU-7004
32 to 40 oz. [907 a 1134 gr.]
Delco-Remy
1107391, 1108366, 1108375
32 to 40 oz. [907 a 1134 gr.]
Prestolite
MHA-7008
32 to 40 oz. [907 a 1134 gr.]
70°F. [ 2 1 ° C ]
295
4
6 lb-ft. [0,83 kg-m.]
Not Applicable
Not Applicable
70°F. [ 2 1 ° C ]
200
4
3 lb-ft. [0,41 kg-m.]
70°F. [21°C.;
50
10
5300
70°F. [ 2 1 ° C ]
75
10.6
6200
70°F. [ 2 1 ° C ]
43
10.0
9000
Bendix Folo-Thru
Overrunning Clutch
Bendix Folo-Thru
Prestolite
200691
3.9 to 4.2 ohms
9400 to 11,700 ohms
Delco-Remy
1115247
1.28 to 1.42 ohms
7200 to 9500 ohms
Prestolite
201700
4.25 to 4.60 ohms
5200 to 6100 ohms
223
H
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
H-152. E L E C T R I C A L SPECIFICATIONS—Continued
-
MODEL
IGNITION COIL BALLAST
]Make
Model
Ohms
• •
HURRICANE
F4 E N G I N E
None
D A U N T L E S S V-6
ENGINE
EARLY MODELS
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
LATE MODELS
Delco-Remy
1957154
1.80 @ 80°F.
Prestolite
P U 5003
.495 - .605 @ 75°F.
.638 - .835 @ 212°F.
Prestolite
P U 5003
.495 - .605 @ 75°F.
.638 - .835 @ 212°F.
Delco-Remy
1110376
Prestolite
I A T 4501 or
I A T 4502
.016" [0,406 mm.]
17 to 22 oz.
[482 a 624 gr.]
29° ± 3 °
Prestolite
I A T 4502A
.016" [0,406 mm.]
17 to 22 oz.
[482 a 624 gr.]
29° ± 3 °
DISTRIBUTOR:
• (a)
(b)
Model
Breaker Point Gap
Breaker Arm Tension. . . . . .
Max. Auto Advance
(Crankshaft Degrees)
•(a)
(b)
Max. Vac. Advance
(Distributor Degrees)., . .
Condenser Capacity. .
TIMING:
Crankshaft
Mark L o c a t i o n . . . . . . . . . . . .
Firing Order
SPARK PLUGS:
Make
Thread
Thread Reach
Gap
LAMP BULB T R A D E
NUMBERS:
Headlight
Parking and Directional Signals.
License Plate L i g h t . . . . . . . .
Marker and Reflector
INDICATOR
Prestolite
L A Y 4012, 4401
I A Y 4401A, 44011
.020" [0,508 mm.]
17 to 20 oz.
[482 a 567 gr.]
42°
.016" [0,406 mm.]
19 to 23 oz.
[538 a 652 gr.]
29° to 31°
11° @ 1,700 rpm.
13.5° @ 1,700 rpm.
13° to 15° at 1,950 rpm.
16° @ 1,800 rpm.
26° @ 4200 rpm.
21° (2 1,800 rpm.
32° @ 4200 rpm.
None
.25 to .28 mfd.
8°
.18 to .23 mfd.
8°
.25 to .28 mfd.
.25 to .28 mfd.
See Note
Crankshaft Pulley
1-3-4-2
See Note
Crankshaft Pulley
1-6-5-4-3-2
See Note
Crankshaft Pulley
1-6-5-4-3-2
See Note
Csankshaft Pulley
1-6-5-4-3-2
Champion
J8
14 mm.
Vz" [9,47 mm.]
.030" [0,762 mm.]
A.C.
44S
14 mm.
%" [9,47 mm.]
.035" [0,900 mm.]
A . C . or Champion
44S or U J 12Y
14 mm.
¥%" [9,47 mm.]
.035" [0,900 mm.]
A . C . or Champion
44S or U J 12Y
14 mm.
V8" [9,47 mm.]
.035" [0,900 mm.|
6012
1157NA
1155
194
6012
1157NA
1155
194
6012
1157NA
1155
194
6012
1157NA
1155
194
57
57
57
57
1156
57
57
57
57
57
57
57
1156
57
57
57
57
57
57
57
1156
57
57
57
57
57
57
57
1156
57
57
57
LIGHTS:
Directional S i g n a l s . . . . . . . .
Charge
Instrument Cluster
Warning — 4 Way Flasher. .
Brake Warning Light
FUSE DATA:
Heater
Backup
WS/Wiper.
Directional Signal
4-Way Flasher
Brake Warning Light
FLASHER DATA:
Directional Signals.
Hazzard Warning.
9
14
14
9
14
9
amp.
amp.
amp.
amp.
amp.
amp.
144
170
9
14
14
9
14
9
amp.
amp.
amp.
amp.
amp.
amp.
144
170
9
14
14
9
14
9
amp.
amp.
amp.
amp.
amp.
map.
144
170
N O T E : 0° T . D . C . on Distributor models I A Y 4401A, I A Y 4401B, I A T 4502A.
N O T E : 5° B . T . C . on Distributor models I A Y 4012, I A Y 4401, I A T 4501, I A T 4502, 1110376.
224
go
9
14
14
9
14
9
amp.
amp.
amp.
amp.
amp.
amp.
144
170
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
CLUTCH
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL
.1-1
Clutch Maintenance
1-2
Clutch Pedal Linkage and Adjustment.... 1-3
Pilot Bushing Inspection and
Replacement
1-8
C L U T C H — H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E . . .
Clutch Removal.
Clutch Pressure Plate and Disc Inspection.
Clutch Pressure Plate Adjustment
Clutch Installation
.1-4
1-5
. 1-6
1-7
1-9
C L U T C H — D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E ,
DIAPHRAGM SPRING T Y P E
1-10
Clutch Removal.
. . . . . . . . .1-11
Clutch Inspection,
Diaphragm Spring Type. .
1-12
Clutch Installation
1-27
SUBJECT
PAR.
SERVICING COIL SPRING
TYPE CLUTCH
. .1-13
Pressure Plate Adjustment.
1-14
Pressure Plate Disassembly. . . . .
1-15
Inspection of Parts
1-16 thru 1-20
Pressure Plate Reassembly. . . . .1-21 thru 1-23
Clutch Lever Adjustment
1-24
Clutch Fitxure
. .1-26
CLUTCH THROWOUT RELEASE
BEARING
1-25
S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS
1-28
CLUTCH SPECIFICATIONS
1-29
CLUTCH ADJUSTING
F I X T U R E DATA
1-30
FIG. I-1—CLUTCH LINKAGE
AND A D J U S T M E N T , CROSS
SHAFT T U B E AND L E V E R T Y P E
1— Clutch Release Bearing
2 —Carrier Spring
3 — Bracket
4— Dust Seal
5— Ball Stud
6— Pad
7— Retainer
8— Control Tube Spring
9 — Control Lever and Tube
1 0 —Ball Stud and Bracket
11— Frame Bracket
1 2 — Ball Stud Nut
1 3 —Yoke Lock Nut
14—Adjusting Yoke
15— Bolt
16—Pedal Release Rod
1 7 —Pedal Clamp Bolt
18— Control Cable
1 9 —Clutch Pedal
2 0 — Screw and Lockwasher
2 1 —Draft P a d
2 2 — Pedal Pad and Shank
2 3 — Retracting Spring
2 4 —Pedal to Shaft K e y
2 5 —Washer
2 6 — Pedal Shaft
2 7 —Master Cylinder T i e B a r
2 8 —Control Lever
2 9 —Bearing Carrier
10734
225
I
CLUTCH
1-1. GENERAL
The clutch on current 'Jeep' vehicles is either
Auburn or Borg and Beck manufactured. Vehicles
equipped with F4-134 engines have an Auburn
9.25" [23,4 cm.] single plate dry-disc clutch. The
pressure plate has three coil pressure springs and
three levers or fingers.
The V6-225 engine is equipped with a 10.4" [26,4
cm.] Borg and Beck single plate dry-disc clutch.
The pressure plate utilizes either a finger-type
diaphragm spring, or a coil type spring pressure
plate for clutch release.
The driven plates of all models are built with vibration damper springs and have two flexible facings
which provide smooth engagement of the engine
power.
Early 'Jeep' vehicles equipped with a Dauntless
V-6 engine use a 10.4" [26,4 cm.] single plate, drydisc clutch, incorporating a diaphram-type spring
assembly.
The clutch is of the centrifugal single dry disc type
and consists of the clutch disc, pressure plate and
the clutch release bearing.
The clutch is actuated by a clutch pedal and a
series of mechanical linkage.
When the clutch pedal is in the engaged position,
the clutch disc facings are clamped between the
friction surface of the engine flywheel and the
face of the clutch pressure plate, thereby connecting engine power to the transmission. Depressing
the clutch pedal actuates the clutch release shaft
fork which moves the clutch release bearing against
the clutch fingers. This, in turn, moves the pressure
plate away from the clutch disc. Since the disc is
splined to the transmission input shaft, the clutch
disc and transmission input shaft will stop when
the clutch is disengaged, thereby disconnecting
engine power from the transmission.
1-2. Clutch Maintenance
To obtain normal life and satisfactory performance
from any clutch it must be correctly operated and
properly maintained. Two conditions which shorten
clutch life are continuous operation of the clutch
release bearing and clutch slippage.
The clutch release bearing is designed for intermittent use. If run continuously the bearing lubricant will become exhausted causing the bearing to
become dry, noisy, or will seize, resulting in clutch
finger or diaphragm wear. The clutch must be
properly adjusted so that the release bearing is
free of the clutch fingers or diaphragm at all times,
except when the clutch pedal is depressed.
Excessive clutch slippage often occurs when the
vehicle is overloaded, the vehicle load is applied
too quickly, or when the pressure of the clutch
fingers or diaphragm is only partially applied to
the clutch plate. Friction between the clutch facing
and flywheel produces excessive heat causing
burned, glazed and worn linings, resulting in
shortened clutch life. Avoid clutch slippage under
heavy loads by using a lower gear or reducing
the load.
1-3. Clutch Pedal Linkage and Adjustment
Adjust the clutch pedal free travel whenever the
clutch does not disengage properly, or when new
clutch parts are installed. Improper adjustment of
the clutch pedal free travel is one of the most frequent causes of clutch failure and can be a contributing factor in some transmission failures.
As the clutch facings wear the free travel of the
clutch pedal diminishes. When sufficient wear occurs the pedal clearance must be adjusted.
Two types of clutch linkage have been used on
Jeep vehicles, a cross shaft tube and lever type
shown in Fig. 1-1, and a clutch control cable type
shown in Fig. 1-2. The clutch pedal adjustment
procedures for both type linkages are as follows.
• Cross Shaft Lever and Tube Type
Refer to Fig. 1-1.
Note: Two different Clutch Control Lever and
Tube Assemblies have been installed on 'Jeep*
Universal vehicles equipped with a V-6 engine and
T14A transmission.
Should difficulty in shifting the transmission be
noted, check the length of the clutch release pedal
rod, item (16) in Fig. 1-1. Measure the distance
between the centerlines of the cotter key holes.
FIG. 1-2—CLUTCH LINKAGE
AND A D J U S T M E N T ,
CONTROL CABLE T Y P E
A — T o p View, Cable to Clutch Fork
1— Retracting Spring (Clutch Fork)
2 — Clutch Fork
3 — Ball Adjusting Nut
4— Lock Nut
5 — Clutch Cable
B — S i d e View, Cable to Clutch Pedal
6— Clutch Cable Support Bracket
7— Clutch Cable Housing
8— Anchor Bracket-to-Frame Side R a i l
9 — Retracting Spring (Clutch Pedal)
10—Clutch Pedal Assembly
*
©
©
©
1437S
226
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L
SERIES S E R V I C E MANUAL
The correct distance should be 10%" [26,04 cm.].
If the length of the clutch release pedal rod is
other than 10 W [26,04 cm.], the vheicle is
equipped with the early type Clutch Control Lever
and Tube Assembly, which should be removed,
and^trie latest designed parts should be installed.
The free pedal clearance is adjusted by lengthening
or shortening the" clutch fork cable. To make this
adjustment, loosen the jam nut on the cable clevis
and lengthen or shorten the cable to obtain %"
[19,05 mm.] free travel at the pedal pad, then
tighten the jam unit.
• Clutch Control Cable Type
Refer to Fig. 1-2.
a. With the clutch pedal pad against the floor
panel, (pedal up, clutch engaged) adjust ball adjusting nut until slack is removed from the cable
and the clutch throwout bearing contacts the clutch
pressure plate, release levers or diaphragm plate.
b. Back-off ball adjusting nut 2 V2 turns to obtain
approximately % " [19,05 mm.] free travel. Lock
hex nut.
procedures outlined in Section J for the removal
of the transmission and transfer case from the
vehicle. Then remove the flywheel housing and use
the following procedures for removing the clutch
assembly.
Note: The F 4 engine may be removed from the
vehicle when inspecting or replacing the clutch.
Refer to Section D for Hurricane F 4 engine removal and then follow the instructions given below
to remove the clutch assembly.
a. Mark the clutch pressure plate and engine flywheel with a center punch so the clutch assembly
may be installed in the same position after adjustments or replacement are completed.
b. Remove the clutch pressure plate bracket bolts
equally, a little at a time, to prevent distortion and
to relieve the clutch springs evenly.
c. Remove the pressure plate assembly and driven
plate from the flywheel.
1-6. Clutch Pressure Plate and Disc Inspection
Inspect the pressure plate face for cracks, chips,
and warpage. Check the pressure plate levers for
excessive wear and the springs for breaks. If any
of the above conditions exist, the complete pressure
plate must be replaced. Check the clutch disc for
excessive wear, loose or damaged facings, broken
vibration damper springs and evidence of grease
or oil. If any of the above conditions exist, replace
the clutch disc.
1-7. Clutch Pressure Plate Adjustment — Auburn
The clutch pressure plate must be checked before
installing a new or reconditioned clutch. The proper
FIG.
1-3—AUBURN C L U T C H A S S E M B L Y —
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
1— Driven Plate and Hub
2— Pressure Plate
3 — Pivot Pin
4— Bracket
5 — Spring Cup
6— Pressure Spring
7—Release Lever
8— Return Spring
9— Adjusting Screw
10—Jam Nut
11— Washer
Note: Some older 'Jeep' vehicles may develop side
movement of the clutch and brake pedals resulting
from wear of the pedals, shafts, and bushings. One
way to compensate for this wear is to install a pedal
slack adjuster kit
1-4. CLUTCH — HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
• Auburn
Vehicles equipped with the Hurricane F 4 engine
have a 9.25" [23,4 cm.] driven plate. The auburn
clutch driving (pressure) plate assembly (Fig. 1-3)
has three pressure springs and three levers or
fingers.
1-5. Clutch Removal
When necessary to remove the clutch, follow the
11339
FIG.
1-4—CHECKING AUBURN C L U T C H
ADJUSTMENT
LEVER
1—Adjustment Gauge
2— Fixture Mounting Bolt
3 — Clutch Fixture
227
CLUTCH
©—*
11378
F I G . 1-5—ADJUSTING A U B U R N
CLUTCH LEVERS
1 —Gauge
2 —Clutch Lever
3 — Adjusting Screw
4 —Locknut
5—Mounting Bolt
6—Clutch Pressure Plate
7—Thickness Spacer
8—Clutch Adjusting Fixture
spacer thickness and gauge length is listed in
Par. 1-30. Use Clutch Adjusting Fixture W-296
and proceed as follows:
a. Place the thickness spacers between the pressure
plate face and clutch adjusting fixture. Locate the
spacers under the pressure plate levers and at the
center of the pressure plate face, see Fig. 1-5.
b. With the spacers properly installed, bolt the
pressure plate to the adjusting fixture. Draw the
bolts down evenly a little at a time until they are
tight.
c. Using the proper gauge length check the lever
adjustment as shown in Fig. 1-4.
d. Lever adjustment can be altered by removing
the lever clips, loosening the locknut and turning
the adjusting screw (Fig. 1-5) in or out as required.
1-8. Pilot Bushing Inspection and Replacement
• F 4 and V-6 Engine.
Inspect the transmission main shaft pilot bushing
which is pressed into the center of the flywheel on
the Hurricane F 4 engine and in the center of the
crankshaft on the Dauntless V-6 engine. If the
bushing is worn or damaged, it should be removed,
using a pilot bushing remover. Screw the tapered
end of the tool into the damaged bushing, allowing
the tool to cut its own threads until a solid grip
is obtained. Insert the puller screw and rotate it
until bushing is forced out of flywheel, Fig. 1-6 or
crankshaft.
To install a new bushing, slide the bushing onto
the end of a pilot bushing installing and burnishing
tool and insert the bushing into flywheel or crankshaft. A soft hammer can be used against the tool
to help drive the bushing in place. When the tool
is removed (by tightening the cap and pressure
nut as shown in Fig. 1-7), the bushing will be
burnished to correct size. Apply a small amount of
lubricant to the bushing bore.
FIG. 1-7—INSTALLING PILOT
BUSHING
1— Pilot Bushing Installing and Burnishing Tool
2 — Flywheel
FIG. 1-6—REMOVING
PILOT
BUSHING
1— Flywheel
2 —Pilot Bushing
3 — Pilot Bushing Remover
228
1-9. Clutch Installation
a. Inspect Clutch Disc
Before the clutch disc is installed, it should be
carefully inspected for warpage. If grease or oil
is evident on the friction facings, the facings should
be replaced and the cause of oil accumulation corrected. Excessively worn facings should also be
replaced with factory recommended parts.
b. Inspect Clutch Release Bearing and Sleeve
The clutch release bearing and sleeve are attached
to the front facing of the transmission case by a
spring. Check the bearing and sleeve for evidence
of grease leaks from within the bearing or for wear
and looseness. Replace parts as necessary.
I
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Note: The clutch release bearing is lubricated at
time of assembly and no attempt should be made
to lubricate i t Refer to Fig. 1-23 when lubricating
the clutch throwout bearing collar.
c. Reassembly
To assemble the clutch to the flywheel, first put
a small amount of light cup grease in the flywheel
pilot bushing, install the driven plate, with short
end of hub toward the flywheel, then place the
pressure plate assembly in position. With a clutch
plate aligning arbor or a spare transmission main
shaft, align the driven plate splines leaving the
arbor in position while tightening the pressure plate
screws evenly.
Next, assemble the flywheel housing to the engine
and reinstall the transmission and transfer case or
install the engine in the vehicle, depending on the
procedure of removal. Make sure that the clutch
release bearing carrier return spring is hooked in
place. For the remainder of the assembly reverse
the operations that were used in removing the
transmission and transfer case or the engine
referring to the instructions given in Section J
for the transmission and Section D and D l for the
engine.
d. Adjust the clutch control cable so there is A"
[19,05 mm.] free pedal travel. (Refer to Par. 1-3)
3
1-10.
CLUTCH — DAUNTLESS V-6 ENGINE
• Diaphragm Spring Type (Early Models)
*Jeep' vehicles equipped with a Dauntless V-6 engine use a 10.4" [26,4 cm.] single-plate, dry-disc
clutch, incorporating a diaphragm-type spring assembly.
When the clutch pedal is depressed, it moves the
clutch fork in the direction shown in Fig. 1-8. The
clutch fork, pivoting on a ball stud, acts upon the
throwout bearing. The bearing then forces the
prongs of the diaphragm spring in the direction
shown in Fig. 1-8. The diaphragm spring is mounted
so that it pivots on its retaining rings. This reverses
the direction of force. Force is applied directly to
the three retracting springs which then move the
pressure plate rearward, away from the driven
plate.
The clutch driven plate assembly slides freely on
the transmission main drive gear splined shaft. It
is keyed to the gear shaft by ten splines. The
front end of the main drive gear shaft is piloted
by a bushing pressed into a recess in the rear end
of the engine crankshaft. See Fig. 1-8.
The outer area of the driven plate is divided into
segments formed in low waves to provide springs
between the plate facings and cushion engagement
of the clutch. A molded facing is riveted to each
side of every segment. When the clutch is fully
released, the waved segments cause the facings to
spread approximately .045" [1,14 mm.]. Pressure
plate movement provides an additional clearance
of approximately .030" [0.76 mm.] to assure full
release of the driven plate. See Fig. 1-8.
The driven plate assembly is designed to prevent
torsional fluctuation of the engine from being
transmitted to the transmission gears. Its hub is
FIG. 1-8—CLUTCH R E L E A S E ACTION
1—Pressure Plate
2 — Throwout Bearing
3 — Pivot Point
4— Clutch Fork
5—Engine Crankshaft
6—Pilot Bearing
7—Flywheel
8—Driven Plate
driven through torsional coil springs; additional
frictional dampening is supplied by molded frictional washers.
1-11. Clutch Removal
a. Remove transmission as described in Section J .
b. Remove clutch throwout bearing and pedal return spring from clutch fork.
c. Remove flvwheel housing from engine.
d. Disconnect clutch fork from ball stud by forcing it toward the center of the vehicle.
e. Mark clutch cover and flywheel with a center
punch so that cover can later be installed in the
same position on the flywheel. This is necessary to
maintain engine balance.
f. Loosen the clutch attaching bolts alternately,
one turn at a time, to avoid distorting the clutch
cover flange, until diaphragm spring is released.
g. Support the pressure plate and cover assembly
while removing last bolts; remove pressure plate
and driven plate from flywheel.
Caution: Use extreme care to keep clutch driven
plate clean.
h. If it is necessary to disassemble pressure plate,
remove three drive strap-to-pressure plate bolts
and retracting springs. Remove pressure plate from
clutch cover.
Note: When disassembling, note position of grooves
on edge of pressure plate and cover. These marks
must be aligned in assembly to maintain balance.
i. The clutch diaphragm spring and two pivot rings
are riveted to the clutch cover. Inspect spring, rings
and cover for excessive wear or damage. If there
is a defect, replace the complete cover assembly.
1-12. Clutch inspection
Wash all metal parts of clutch, except release bearing and driven plate, in suitable cleaning solution
to remove dirt and grease. If solvent seeps into
bearing, lubricant may be dissolved. Cleaning solvent will also damage the facings of driven plate,
a. Inspect friction surfaces of flywheel and pressure plate for scoring or roughness. Slight roughness
may be smoothed with fine emery cloth. If surface
229
CLUTCH
is deeply scored or grooved, the part should be
replaced.
b. Inspect driven plate for wear or damage to facings, loose rivets, broken or loose torsion springs,
and flattened cushion springs. If facings are worn
near rivets or are oily, replace the plate assembly.
A slight amount of oil on clutch facings will cause
clutch grab and chatter; excessive oil on facings
will cause slippage. It is not practical to remove
oil with solvents or by buffing since oil will continue to bleed from facing material when hot. If
oil is found on driven plate facings, examine transmission drainback hole, pilot bushing, engine rear
main bearing and other points of possible oil
leakage. Test the fit of driven plate hub on transmission main drive gear for an easy sliding fit.
c. Inspect clutch release bearing for scoring or excessive wear on front contact face. Test for roughness of balls and races by pressing and turning
front race slowly. Inspect main drive gear pilot
bushing in crankshaft. Replace bushing if it is
rough or worn. Regardless of whether the old plate
or a new plate is to be installed, check the plate
for runout. Slide the driven plate, front side first,
over the transmission main drive gear shaft so that
it is tight on the spline. Index a dial indicator to
the plate facing as shown in Fig. 1-9. While holding
firmly against front end of main drive gear, to
take up play in main drive gear bearing, slowly
rotate driven plate and observe the amount of runout shown by indicator. If runout of front facing
exceeds .025" [0,635 mm.], replace the plate. It
is not practical to correct excessive runout by
bending.
1-13. SERVICING CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE AND
DISC — BORG & BECK V6 (Late Models)
The Borg & Beck clutch is a single plate, dry disk
type. It provides smooth engagement of engine
power to the wheels. The clutch consists of a pressure plate assembly with pressure springs and
release levers, and driven plate assembly. The
driven plate assembly uses spring center vibration
neutralizes and two flexible facings.
The clutch driven plate is spring cushioned with a
facing riveted to both sides. The coil springs around
the hub absorb the power shocks and cushion the
driving mechanism. The clutch throw-out bearing
is of the ball type, packed at time of manufacture,
and requires no further lubrication.
No adjustment for wear is provided in the clutch
itself. An individual adjustment is built into the
clutch cover to adjust the height of the release
levers. This adjusting nut is locked in position
and should never be disturbed unless the clutch
assembly has been disassembled for the replacement of worn parts or to correct the height of the
release levers.
When the clutch pedal is depressed (disengaged),
the release bearing is moved toward the flywheel
and contacts the inner ends of the release levers.
Each lever is pivoted on a floating pin which remains stationary in the lever and rolls across a
short flat portion of the enlarged hole in the eyebolt. The outer ends of the eyebolts extend
through holes in the stamped cover and are fitted
with adjusting nuts to secure the levers in the
correct position. The outer ends of the release levers
engage the pressure plate lugs by means of fulcrums, which provide knife-edge contact between
the outer ends of the levers and the lugs as shown
in Fig. I-10.
12190
FIG. MO—CLUTCH L E V E R
12769
F I G . 1-9—RUNOUT C H E C K — C L U T C H
PLATE
1—Front Facing (Flywheel Side)
2 —Dial Indicator Set
d. Check clutch pilot bushing for excessive wear
or damage. Replace pilot bushing, if necessary, with
special removal and installation tools. (See Figs.
1-6 and 1-7).
230
POSITIONS
A—Clutch Engaged
B — C l u t c h Disengaged
1-14. Clutch Pressure Plate Adjustment
The clutch pressure plate adjustment must be
checked before installing a new or reconditioned
clutch. The proper spacer thickness and gage
length for a particular clutch is listed in Par. 1-30.
Use Clutch Adjusting Fixture W-296. If the W-296
fixture is not available one can be fabricated as
described in Par. 1-26.
I
1
'Jeep U N I V E R S A L SERIES S E R V I C E M A N U A L
sure plate. Have the block of such a length that
the cover can move down and not interfere with
the block. Place a wood block across the top of
the cover so that i t rests on the spring bosses and
does not interfere with the eyebolt adjusting nuts
as shown in Fig. 1-12.
Compress the clutch cover i n the press until the
clutch release levers are free. Remove the adjusting nuts. Release the press slowly to prevent the
springs from flying out.
Remove felt grease pads.
14172
F I G . 1-11—CLUTCH M O U N T E D ON
ADJUSTING F I X T U R E
1—Mounting Bolt
2 — Gauge
3 — Lever
4—Adjusting Nut
5—Pressure Plate
6— Spacer
7— Clutch Fixture W-296
a. Place the proper thickness spacers between the
pressure plate face and the clutch adjusting fixture.
Locate the spacers under the pressure plate fingers
and at the center of the pressure plate face as
shown i n Fig. I-11.
b. W i t h the spacers properly installed, bolt the
pressure plate to the adjusting fixture. Draw the
bolts down evenly, a little at a time, until they are
tight.
e. Using the proper gage length, check the lever
adjustment.
d. Lever adjustment can be altered by removing
the lever clips loosening the lock nut and turning
the adjusting screw i n or out as required.
Caution: When relieving the spring pressure, be
sure the cover does not stick on the pressure plate
bosses.
1-16. INSPECTION OF CLUTCH PARTS
1-17. Inspect Clutch Pressure Springs
A thorough inspection of the clutch springs should
always be made. They should be tested for spring
tension when the spring is compressed to a given
length.
On the clutch for the V 6 engine, springs with black
color markings, used adjacent to the clutch levers,
must exert a force of 240 lb. ± 5 lb. [100,8 kg.
± 2 , 3 kg.] when compressed to 1%" [3,7 cm.].
Springs with yellow markings, used between springs
adjacent to the clutch levers, must exert a force of
145 lb. ± 5 lb. [65,6 kg. ± 2 , 3 kg.] when compressed to 1%" [3,7 cm.].
1-18. Inspect Clutch Adjusting Levers
A thorough inspection should be given the levers,
the eyebolt pin, and the fulcrum. I f they show
any wear, replace them. To remove the release
levers, grasp a lever and eyebolt between the
thumb and fingers so that the inner end of the
1-15. Clutch Disassembly
The clutch cover and pressure plate are under
spring tension at all times. Therefore, care must be
exercised when a clutch cover assembly is disassembled. Place the clutch cover assembly i n an
arbor press with a hard wood block under the pres-
F I G . 1-12—COMPRESSING SPRING
TO R E M O V E NUTS
FIG. 1-13—REMOVING ADJUSTING
l—Eyebolt
2—Fulcrum
LEVERS
3—Lever
231
CLUTCH
1-20.
Inspect Transmission Clutch Shaft
Slide the clutch driven plate onto the transmission
clutch shaft to make sure that it is free on the
splines. If the splines on the transmission clutch
shaft are burred, remove the burrs with a fine
file or stone. If the movement of the clutch driven
plate is not free on the splines, the result will be
clutch drag and hard shifting of transmission gears.
1-21. CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE ASSEMBLY
AND ADJUSTMENT
F I G . 1-14—LIFTING L E V E R AND E Y E B O L T
FROM PRESSURE PLATE
1— Lever
2— Eyebolt
3 — Fulcrum
A Pressure Plate
lever and the upper end of the eyebolt are as
near together as possible. Keep the eyebolt pin
seated in its socket in the lever as shown in Fig.
1-13. Lift the fulcrum over the ridge on the end
of the lever. Lift the lever and eyebolt off the
pressure plate as shown in Fig. 1-14.
1-19. Inspect Pressure Plate and Disc
Inspect the pressure plate to make sure that it
is not cracked or scored. Check on a surface plate
for a warped condition, as a pressure plate out
of alignment will result in clutch chatter. Machining or grinding the face of a warped pressure
plate is not recommended. If a warped condition
exists, replace the pressure plate. A new plate
should be installed if the plate or cushion springs
appear to be defective. The cushion springs must
not be bent out of shape or flattened.
The clutch discs for the nine or twelve spring
clutches are designed for operation with their
respective clutches. Difference in general appearance of the discs may be noted in the method of
housing the six torque dampening springs and in the
hub design.
After removal of the clutch assembly, the disc
should be inspected. The presence of grease or oil
on the friction facing can cause the clutch to chatter
and grab during engagement and slip at higher
speeds. If this condition is evident, the facings or
disc should be replaced and the cause of oil accumulation corrected. Excessively worn facings
should be replaced. The clutch disc must be installed with the long end of the hub toward the
transmission.
232
1-22. Assemble Clutch Levers
Prior to assembly, apply a small amount of petrolatum to each slide of the pressure plate lug.
a. L a y the pressure plate on the block in the
press.
b. Assemble a lever, eyebolt, and pin holding the
lever and eyebolt as close together as possible.
With the other hand, grasp the fulcrum as shown
in Fig. 1-15.
c. Insert the fulcrum in the slots of the pressure
plate lug. Lower slightly and tilt the lower edge
until it touches the vertical milled surface of the
lug. Insert the lower end of the eyebolt in the
hole in the pressure plate. The short end of the
lever will then be under the hook of the lug and
near the fulcrum.
d. Slide the fulcrum upward in the slots of the
lug. Lift it over the ridge on the short end of the
lever and drop it into the groove in the lever
(Fig. 1-15).
1-23. Assemble Clutch Spring and Cover
a. After all levers are installed, place the felt
grease pads over the eyebolts. Lubricate pads
sparingly with light engine oil. Then place the
clutch pressure springs in a vertical position on
the spring bosses.
F I G . 1-15—INSTALLING C L U T C H
1— Lover
2— Eyebolt
3— Fulcrum
4— Pressure Plate
LEVERS
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E
b. Check the anti-rattle springs in the clutch cover
and place the cover on top of the pressure plate
assembly. The top of each pressure spring must
enter its spring seat in the cover. Line up punch
marks on cover and pressure plate for balance.
c. Slowly compress the cover making sure that
the eyebolts and pressure plate lugs are guided
through the proper holes in the cover.
d. Hold the clutch under compression and screw
down the adjusting nuts until they are flush with
the tops of the eyebolts. Release the spindle of
the press.
MANUAL
Mount the cover assembly, center the plate and
line up the three machined lands on the gauge
plate directly under the levers, as shown in Fig. 1-16.
Tighten the cover screws in rotation, one to two
turns at a time, to avoid distortion of the cover.
1-24. Clutch Lever Adjustment
Important: Always inspect release lever height
adjustment when installing a new clutch drive
plate.
Place a clutch gauge plate on the flywheel in the
position normally occupied by the driven plate.
FIG. 1-18—CLUTCH H E I G H T A D J U S T M E N T
Each lever should be depressed several times before checking. This will seat the levers in their
operating positions, as shown in Fig. 1-17.
Place the gauge on the hub as shown in Fig. 1-18.
T o adjust the levers, turn the lever adjustment
nut until the levers are %{' to %6" [0,93 a 1,59 mm.]
above the hub. Before staking the adjusting nuts
to lock them in place, work the lever up and down
and recheck lever adjustment again. Stake the
nut with a dull punch, as shown in Fig. 1-19.
F I G . 1-16—CLUTCH W I T H G A U G E P L A T E
1—Machined Land
2—Gauge Plate
F I G . 1-19—LOCKING A D J U S T I N G
F I G . 1-17—CHECKING L E V E R S F O R
F R E E MOVEMENT
NUTS
1-25. Clutch Throwout Release Bearing
The clutch throwout or release mechanism consists
of a forked lever which pivots on a ball pivot
threaded into the clutch housing. A throwout lever
return spring is anchored to a clip under the ball
pivot and holds the lever in contact with the ball
pivot. The clutch throwout bearing, which is a
pre-lubricated unit, is attached to the forked end
of the throwout lever.
Never wash the clutch throwout release bearing in
gasoline or any solvent that will dissolve the lubricant. It is neither necessary nor possible to lubricate this bearing at any time. Connect linkage
to the throwout release lever. Adjust free-play as
directed in Par. 1-3.
233
CLUTCH
1-26. FABRICATING CLUTCH FIXTURE
Where a Clutch Rebuilding and Adjusting Fixture
W-296 is not available, one can be fabricated if
desired. It is necessary to make a mounting fixture,
nine spacers, and a gauge as shown in Fig. 1-20.
Proceed as follows:
a. For the mounting fixture, select a flat steel
plate 1" x 12" x 12" [2,54 x 3,05 x 3,05 cm.]. As
shown in Fig. 1-21, drill and tap six equally spaced
holes / "-16 thread on the l l - / " [29,6 cm.] diameter bolt circle; and %"-18 thread on the 10-%"
[27,1 cm.] diameter bolt circle. Drill and tap six
Jf "-18 thread holes as indicated on the 9-%"
[24,10 cm.] diameter bolt circle. Hole spacing and
bolt circle tolerances should be held to plus or
minus .002" [.050 mm.]. Countersink all holes to a
depth of %" [8 mm.]. Drill and tap the holes all
the way through the plate.
b. From steel bar stock any size from V 2 " [12
mm.] to 1V2" [2,86 cm.], make 3 spacers in each
3
s
8
8
6
FIG. 1-20—CLUTCH R E B U I L D I N G AND
A D J U S T I N G F I X T U R E W-296 P I E C E S
1—Mounting Fixture
2—Spacers
3—Gauge
11612
F I G . 1-21—MOUNTING F I X T U R E H O L E
-B
^
C
A
DIMENSIONS
D-
10347
F I G . 1-22—GAUGE F A B R I C A T I N G D I M E N S I O N S
A — 1 / 2 " [12,7 mm.]
D — 2 " [5,08 cm.] ± . 0 1 0 "
B — 1 % " [4,92 cm.] t.010"
£ — 1 " [2,54 cm.]
" "' [2,54 cm.]
234
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
thickness: .285" [0,724 cm.], .305" [0,775 cm.].
Each spacer should be hardened and ground to
size, and then have the dimensional thickness
stamped thereon.
c. From flat bar stock at least Vfe" [3 mm.] thick,
make a gauge as shown in Fig. 1-22. Harden, grind
to size, and stamp sizes on the gauge.
1-27. Clutch Installation
a. Very sparingly, apply wheel bearing lubricant
to inner surface of pilot bushing in crankshaft.
Caution: If excessive lubricant is applied to pilot
bushing, it will run out on face of flywheel when
hot and ruin the driven plate facings.
b. Make sure that splines in the driven plate hub
are clean; apply a light coat of lubricant to splines
of hub and transmission drive gear shaft. Slide
plate over gear shaft several times; remove plate
from shaft and wipe off excess lubricant.
Caution: Driven plate facings must be kept clean
and dry.
c. Fill groove in throwout bearing collar with
wheel bearing lubricant. See Fig. 1-23. Make sure
that front bearing retainer of transmission is clean;
apply a light coat of wheel bearing lubricant. Slide
throwout bearing over bearing retainer several
times. Remove bearing from retainer and wipe off
excess lubricant.
I
d. Clean and apply wheel bearing lubricant to ball
stud in flywheel housing and to the seat in clutch
fork.
e. If disassembled, install pressure plate in the
cover assembly, lining up the groove on its edge
with the groove on the edge of the cover. Install
pressure plate retracting springs, and the three
drive strap-to-pressure plate bolts and lock washers.
Torque bolts 11 lb-ft. [1,51 kg-m.].
Note: The diaphragm type clutch assembly is factory calibrated and requires no adjustment before
installation. Refer to Par. 1-14 to adjust Borg and
Beck coil spring type clutch assembly.
f. Install the pressure plate and driven plate on
flywheel. Support both assemblies with a spare
main drive gear.
Note: Be certain that mark on clutch cover is
aligned with the mark made on the flywheel during
clutch removal.
g. Install clutch attaching bolts and tighten alternately so that clutch is drawn squarely into position
on flywheel. Each bolt must be tightened one turn
at a time to avoid bending the clutch cover flange.
Torque bolts 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,5 kg-m.].
h. Lubricate the ball stud and clutch fork with
wheel bearing lubricant and install clutch fork.
Note: Be certain that fork retaining spring is tight
on pivot ball stud.
i. Install flywheel
block.
housing on engine cylinder
Caution: Be certain that dowel pins are installed
in cylinder block.
j. Lubricate the recess on the inside of the throwout bearing collar. Be careful not to use too much
lubricant. See Fig. 1-23.
Caution: Make certain that the lips of the spring
retainer (attached to the clutch fork) are in groove
of the bearing. See Fig. 1-24.
12736
F I G . 1-23—LUBRICATION POINTS —
CLUTCH THROWOUT BEARING COLLAR
1—Coat This Groove
2—Pack This Recess
k. Install throwout bearing assembly and connect
clutch linkage.
I. Install transmission as described in Section J .
m. Adjust clutch for %" [19,05 mm.] free travel,
see Par. 1-3.
235
CLUTCH
Note: Should clutch chatter in reverse develop on
a vehicle equipped with the V-6 engine, installation
of Anti-Clutch Chatter Kit, Part No. 992824, will
correct the difficulty. Make certain that the clutch
linkage is tight and in proper adjustment.
Note: Should a noise occur at the clutch control
lever and tube assembly when the clutch pedal is
depressed, remove the existing washer, located
inside the tube at the end of the ball stud mounted
on the transfer case, and add a second dust shield
over the ball stud as shown in Fig. 1-25.
236
I
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
1-28. SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE REMEDY
Slipping:
Improper Pedal Adjustment
Weak Pressure Springs
Lining Oil Soaked
Worn Linings or Torn Loose from Plate
Burned Clutch
Adjust Pedal Free Travel
Replace
Install New Driven Plate
Install New Driven Plate
Replace
Grabbing or Chattering:
Gummy or Worn Linings
Loose Engine Mountings
Scored or Broken Pressure Plate
Improper Clutch Finger A d j u s t m e n t . . . . . . . . . . . .
Clutch Plate Crimp or Cushion Flattened O u t . . . .
Dragging:
Too Much Pedal Play.
Improper Finger Adjustment.
Pressure Plate Binds in Bracket
Warped Pressure or Driven Plate
Torn or Loose Clutch Facing.
Install New Driven Plate
Tighten
Install New Pressure Plate
Readjust
Replace Driven Plate
Adjust
Readjust
Adjust
Replace
Replace
Rattling:
Broken or Weak Return Springs in Driven Plate..
Worn Throwout Bearing
Fingers Improperly Adjusted
Worn Driven Plate Hub of
Transmission Main Gear S h a f t . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pilot Bushings in Flywheel Worn. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pilot Bushing in Crankshaft Worn
Replace
Replace
Readjust
Replace
Replace
Replace
1-29. CLUTCH SPECIFICATIONS
ENGINE
HURRICANE F4
D A U N T L E S S V-6
EARLY MODELS
D A U N T L E S S V-6
LATE MODELS
Auburn
Single D r y Plate
3
1150 lb. [521,6 kg.]
G.M.
Single Plate, D r y Disc.
Diaphragm T y p e
1600 lb. [725 kg.]
Borg and Beck
Single Plate, D r y Disc.
Coil Spring Type (9)
1765 lb. [800 kg.]
Auburn or Borg & Beck
Woven Asbestos
9.25" [23,4 cm.]
.125" [3,17 mm.]
216 lb-ft. [29,87 kg-m.]
G.M.
Woven Asbestos
10.4" [26,4 cm.]
.135" [3,38 mm.]
246 lb-ft. [34.01 kg-m.]
Borg and Beck
Woven Asbestos
10.4" [26,4 cm.]
.135" [3,38 mm.]
250 lb-ft. [34,57 kg-m]
Sealed Ball Bearing
Prelubricated
Sealed B a l l Bearing
Prelubricated
Sealed Ball Bearing
Prelubricated
Pressure Plate;
Type
No. of Springs
Total Plate Pressure
Driven Plate
Make
Facings
Diameter
Thickness
Torque Capacity
Clutch Release Bearing:
. Type
Clutch Pilot Bushing:
Material
Size.
Clutch Pedal Adjustment. . .
I n Flywheel
Bronze
I . D . .628" [15,9 mm.]
W [19,05 mm.]
I n Crankshaft
Bronze
I . D . .592" [18,05 mm.]
% [19,05 mm.]
n
I n Crankshaft
Bronze
I . D . .592" [18,05 mm.]
% [19,05 mm.]
n
1-30. CLUTCH ADJUSTING F I X T U R E DATA
Manufacturer
Disc Diameter
Spacer Thickness
Gauge Length
Auburn
9 j £ " [23,4 cm.]
10.4" [26,4 cm.]
.285" 0,723 cm.]
.305" 0,774 cm.]
mtf [4,9 cm.]
2.0" [5,08 cm.]
J
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
T H R E E - S P E E D TRANSMISSION
Contents
SUBJECT
GENERAL
J-l
T R A N S M I S S I O N S H I F T I N G C O N T R O L . . J-2
TRANSMISSION R E M O T E
CONTROL ADJUSTMENT
J-3
R E M O T E CONTROL DISASSEMBLY
J-4
R E M O T E C O N T R O L R E A S S E M B L Y . . . . . J-5
TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
J-6
SEPARATING TRANSMISSION
AND T R A N S F E R CASE
J-7
J-1.
GENERAL
A three speed synchromesh transmission is standard
equipment on all 'Jeep' Universal vehicles.
The models T90 and T96 transmissions are used
with the Hurricane F 4 engine, and models T86AA
and T14A transmissions are used with the Dauntless V-6 engine. All model transmissions are similar
in design with exception of the T14A which is a
fully synchronized (all forward gears) transmission
with helical drive gears throughout.
The transmission assembly is attached to the rear
face of the flywheel bell housing and is supported
on a rubber insulator at the frame center cross
member which forms the rear engine support.
All 4-wheel-drive vehicles are equipped with a
transfer case attached to the rear of the transmission. Transfer case service and repair procedures
are described in Section K .
Models CJ-5A, and CJ-6A are equipped with the
same transmission, but with a remote control shift.
Models DJ-5 and DJ-6 are equipped with a similar
transmission, however, the construction is somewhat different because it is not designed to
receive a transfer case for four-wheel drive.
For DJ-5 and DJ-6 2WD vehicles, the transmission repair procedures begin with Par. J-12.
J-2. T R A N S M I S S I O N S H I F T I N G
SUBJECT
PAR.
CONTROL
The shift of the three-speed transmission is smooth
and positive. The cane control lever shifts the transmission gears direct from the shift control housing
mounted to the top side of the transmission housing.
The remote control lever shifts the transmission
gears through remote control rods attached to the
adjusting levers of the shift shafts protruding from
the left side of the transmission housing. Poppet
balls and springs retain the transmission gears in
mesh and an interlocking mechanism prevents
shifting into two gears at the same time.
J-3. Transmission Remote Control
Adjustment
• Early CJ-5A, CJ-6A
First disconnect the transmission shift rods from
PAR.
DISASSEMBLY OF CANE
S H I F T TRANSMISSION
Transmission Cleaning and
Inspection
Transmission Interlocking
Sleeve Inspection
J-8, J-12, J-16
J-10, J-18
J-9
REASSEMBLY OF CANE SHIFT
TRANSMISSION
J - l l , J-14, J-19
S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS
J-20
TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS
J-21
the remote control levers. Check for binding of
the remote control shaft on the steering column
and make the necessary corrections to eliminate
any binding condition.
If the shift is not smooth and positive, first make
sure the gears are in neutral position then remove
the shift rods at the transmission by removing
clevis pins, Fig. J - l No. 17, and slip a short piece
of snug fitting 34" [6,35 mm.] aligning rod, through
the gearshift levers and housing as shown in insert
drawing.
This places the clutch and shift lever assemblies
in the neutral position. Adjust the shift rod yokes
at the transmission end, so clevis pins can be installed freely without moving the shift levers on the
transmission after which remove alignment pin.
If shifting from first to second is difficult or transmission hangs in first gear, shorten the low and
reverse shift rod one turn at a time until the condition is corrected. Usually three turns are required.
Should the fault continue after completing the
above adjustment, check further as outlined below.
First remove the lubricating fitting. Use a narrow
feeler gauge which will enter the opening for the
lubricator and check the clearance between the
faces of the shifting clutches. This clearance should
be .015" to .031", [W to W] [0,397-0,794 mm.]. I f
this clearance is greater the assembly must be
removed for adjustment. The shift dog, which
engages the clutch slots, should not have more than
.009" [0,229 mm.] clearance in the slots. I f the clearance between the clutch grooves and cross pins is
too great, these parts must be replaced.
J-4.
R e m o v a l of R e m o t e C o n t r o l
m Early CJ-5A, CJ-6A
• Refer to Fig. J - l
To remove the remote control the following procedure is suggested:
a . Remove shifting rods from the transmission
and also from the steering remote control clutch
levers.
239
T H R E E - S P E E D TRANSMISSION
FIG. J-l—TRANSMISSION
R E M O T E C O N T R O L C J - 5 A, C J - 6 A
1—Stop Screw
2—Bias Spring
3— Gearshift Lever
4—Lever Ball
5— Steering Wheel
6—Horn Button
7— Column and Bearing
8—E n d Huts
9—Shift R o d Ends
10—Shift R o d
11—Shift Rod
12—Cross-Shift Bracket
13—Control Shaft
14— Lubrication Fitting
15— Lever and Clutch
16—Adjusting Yoke
17—Aligning Rod
11706
b. Remove gearshift lever fulcrum pin and the
gearshift lever.
c. Remove plates on the toe board at the steering post.
d. Remove two screws holding remote control
housing to the steering post and lift the housing
from the positioning pin.
e. Remove the assembly down through the floor
pan.
f. Remove the lower clutch and shift lever from
the housing by turning counterclockwise.
g. Remove upper clutch and shift lever in the same
manner.
h. Wash all parts in a suitable cleaning solution.
J - 5 . Reassembly of R e m o t e Control
• Refer to Fig. J - l
Check clearance of shift dog which engages in slot
of clutches, and if found to be greater than .009"
[0,229 mm.] clearance, replace the worn parts.
Assemble upper clutch lever assembly in housing
making sure that the alignment hole in the housing
faces toward the engine. Turn the upper lever assembly in as far as it will go and then back off one
full turn until the hole in the clutch lever aligns
with hole in the housing.
Assemble the lower clutch lever assembly in housing until faces of clutches contact then back off
not more than one-half turn which should bring
the aligning hole in the lever in line with the hole
240
in the housing. If the one-half turn does not bring
the alignment hole in proper position, it will be
necessary to grind off (square with axis not to
exceed .015") [0,397 mm.] the face of the lower
clutch; in other words, backing off not more than
one-half turn from face to face contact gives the
proper clearance of .015" to .031" [0,397-0,794 mm.]
between the two clutches.
Assemble the unit to the steering post in reverse
order of dismantling and adjust remote control
rods.
After assembly, if the shift dog catches on the edge
of the slot in the clutch when moving the lever up
and down, disconnect the shift rod at the
transmission end and either lengthen or shorten it
slightly to correct this condition.
J-6. TRANSMISSION R E M O V A L
The following repair procedures given in Par. J-7
through J - l l for the standard 3-speed transmission
apply in general to all models listed. Minor differences between models that affect the procedure
are noted. Procedure for the optional 4-speed transmission begins with Section J - l .
Removal is as follows:
a. Drain the transmission and transfer case. Replace the drain plugs.
b. Remove the floor pan inspection plate.
c. Remove the shift lever and shift housing assembly and its gasket from the transmission. On
J
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
10489
F I G . J - 2 — T H R E E - S P E E D T R A N S M I S S I O N — T90
1— Main Drive Gear
2—Main Drive Gear Bearing Retainer
3—Main Drive Gear Bearing Retainer Oil Seal
4—Main Drive Gear Snap Ring
5— Main Drive Gear Bearing Snap Ring
6—Main Drive Gear Bearing
7—Synchronizer Shifting Plate
8—Shift Rail Cap
9 —Shift Rail—High and Intermediate
10—Shift Rail Poppet Ball
11—Shift Rail Poppet Spring
12—Shift Fork—High and Intermediate
13— Control Housing
14— Control Lever Support Spring
15— Control Lever Housing Pin
16— Control Lever Fulcrum Ball
17—Gear Shift Lever
18—Shift Fork—Low and Reverse
19—Sliding Gear—Low and Reverse
20—Main Shaft Bearing Adapter
21—Main Shaft Bearing
CJ-5A, CJ-6A models, remove the remote control
rods.
d. Remove the set screw from the transfer case
shift lever pivot pin. Remove the pivot pin, shift
levers, and shift lever springs. On models CJ-5A,
and CJ-6A remove pivot pin cotter key and the
adjusting rod attaching nut to remove shift lever.
See Fig. J - l .
e. I f the vehicle is equipped with power take-off,
remove the shift lever plate screws and lift out the
lever.
f. Disconnect the front and rear propeller shafts
from the transfer case, following the procedure detailed in Section L . Should the vehicle be equipped
with power take-off, disconnect the transfer case
end of the power take-off drive shaft.
g. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transfer
case.
h. Disconnect the hand brake cable.
i. Disconnect the clutch release cable at beilcrank
yoke end.
22—Main Shaft Washer
23—Main Shaft Nut
24—Main Shaft
25— Idler and Countershaft Lock Plate
26—^Countershaft Gear Bearing Rollers
2 7—Countershaft
28— Countershaft Thrust Washer Rear—Steel
29— Countershaft Thrust Washer Rear—Bronze
30— Countershaft Gears
31—Transmission Case
32— Main Shaft Second Speed Gear
33— Countershaft Bearing Spacer
34— Synchronizer Blocking Ring
35— Countershaft Thrust Washer Front—Bronze
36— Countershaft Bearing Washer
37— Intermediate and High Speed Clutch Sleeve
38— Intermediate and High Clutch Hub
39— Synchronizer Spring
40— Intermediate and High Clutch Hub
Snap Ring
41— Main Shaft Pilot Bearing Roller
j . Place jacks under the transmission and engine,
protecting the engine oil pan with a block of wood,
k. Remove the nuts holding rear mounting to
frame cross member.
I. Remove the transfer case snubbing rubber bolt
nut at cross member.
m . Remove bolts holding frame center cross member to frame side rail and remove cross member,
n. Remove bolts holding transmission to flywheel
bellhousing.
o. Force transmission to right to disengage clutch
control lever tube ball joint.
p. Lower jacks under engine and transmission.
Slide transmission and transfer case assemblies
toward rear of vehicle until the clutch shaft clears
the flywheel housing.
q. Lower jack under transmission. Remove transmission and transfer case as an assembly from
under the vehicle.
r. For separation of the transmission and transfer
case, refer to Par. J-7.
241
T H R E E - S P E E D TRANSMISSION
F I G . J - 3 — T H R E E - S P E E D T R A N S M I S S I O N — T86AA
1— Main Drive Gear
2— Main Drive Gear Bearing Retainer
3 —Main Drive Gear Bearing Retainer
Oil Seal
4— Main Drive Gear Snap Ring
5—Main Drive Gear Bearing Snap Ring
6—Main Drive Gear Bearing
7—Synchronizer Shifting Plate
8—Shift Rail Cap
9—Shift Rail — High and Intermediate
10—Shift Rail Poppet Ball
11—Shift Rail Poppet Spring
12—Shift Fork — High and Intermediate
13— Control Housing
14— Control Lever Support Spring
15—Control Lever Housing P i n
16— Control Lever Fulcrum Ball
17—Gear Shift Lever
18— Shift Fork — Low and Reverse
19— Sliding Gear — L o w and Reverse
20—Main Shaft Bearing Adapter
21— Main Shaft Bearing
22—Rear Bearing Snap Ring
23—Transfer Case Driving Gear
24—Main Shaft Washer
25—Main Shaft Nut
26—Main Shaft
27—Idler and Countershaft Lockplate
28— Countershaft Gear Bearing Rollers
29—Countershaft
30— Countershaft Thrust Washer
Rear — Steel
J-7. Separating T r a n s m i s s i o n and
Transfer Case
a. Remove the six screws and lockwashers attaching the transfer case rear cover and remove the
cover. Or, should the vehicle be equipped with a
power take-off, remove the power take-off shift
unit which replaces the cover.
b. Remove cotter pin, nut, and washer which
hold the transfer case main drive gear on the rear
end of the transmission mainshaft. If possible at
this point, remove the main drive gear. I f not
possible, see steps d and e below.
c. Remove the transmission-to-transfer-case screws.
d . Separate the transfer case from the transmission.
When separating the two units, use care that the
transmission mainshaft bearing, which bears in
242
31— Countershaft Thrust Washer
Rear — Bronze
32— Countershaft Gears
33—Transmission Case
34—Main Shaft Second Speed Gear
35— Countershaft Bearing Spacer
36—Synchronizer Blocking Ring
37— Countershaft Thrust Washer
Front — Bronze
38— Countershaft Bearing Washer
39— Intermediate and High Clutch Sleeve
40—Intermediate and High Clutch Hub
41 —Synchronizer Spring
42—Intermediate and High Clutch Hub
43— Main Shaft Pilot Bearing Roller
both housings, remains in the transmission housing.
To separate the two units if the transfer case main
drive gear was not removed in step b above, follow
the procedure in step e below.
e. Install transmission mainshaft retaining plate,
tool W-194, as shown in Fig. J-6 to prevent the
mainshaft from pulling out of the transmission
case. Should this tool be unavailable, loop a piece
of wire around the mainshaft directly back of the
mainshaft second-speed gear. Install the transmission shift housing right and left front attaching
screws part way into the transmission case. Twist
the wire and attach each end to one of the screws.
Draw the wire tightly. With the mainshaft securely
in place, support the transfer case and, with a
rawhide mallet or brass drift and hammer, tap
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
243
J
1— Retainer Screw
2—Retainer Screw Gasket
3—Main Drive Gear Bearing Retainer
4—Oil Seal
5—Bearing Snap Ring
6—Main Drive Gear Snap Ring
7— Main Drive Gear Bearing
8— Main Drive Gear
9—Mainshaft Pilot Bearing Rollers
10—Retainer Gasket
11—Case Cover Gasket
12—Transmission Case Cover
13—Cover Screw
14— Transmission Case
15— Synchronizer Blocking Ring
16—Synchronizer Spring
17—Synchronizer Shifting Plate
18—Intermediate and High Clutch Hub
19—Intermediate and High Clutch Sleeve
2 0 — Intermediate and High Shift Fork
21— Second Speed Gear
2 2 — Mainshaft
23—Low and Reverse Sliding Gear
24—Low and Reverse Shifting Shoe
2 5 — Mainshaft Bearing Spacer
26— Mainshaft Bearing Adapter
27— Mainshaft Bearing
2 8 — Mainshaft Washer
29—Mainshaft Nut
30—Lock Plate
3 1 — Countershaft
32—Steel Thrust Washer
3 3 — Bronze Thrust Washer
34— Countershaft Bearing Spacer
3 5 — Countershaft Bearing Center Spacer
36—Countershaft Bearing Rollers
3 7 — Reverse Idler Gear Shaft
38—Reverse Idler Gear Assembly
39— Countershaft Gear
40— Countershaft Front Thrust Washer
4 1 — Lockwasher
42— Nut
43— Control Lever Washer
44—Low and Reverse Control Lever
45— Low and Reverse Shift Lever
4 6 — Shift Lever Interlock Pin
47—Shift Lever Poppet Spring
48—Shift Lever Poppet Ball
49— Intermediate and High Control Lever
50—Interlock Shift Lever Sleeve
51—High and Intermediate Shift Lever
52—Oil Seal
53—Plug
54— Clutch Hub Snap Ring
55—Taper Pin
56—Front Oil Retaining Washer
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S ' S E R V I C E M A N U A L
lightly on the end of the mainshaft to loosen the
gear and separate the two units.
J - 8 . D i s a s s e m b l y — T 9 0 , T86AA
® Refer to Fig. J-5, J-7
a. If the transfer case is attached, separate it from
the transmission as outlined in Par. J-7.
b. Remove the shift housing and gasket from the
top of the transmission case. The shift housing can
be disassembled, if necessary, at this point by removing the shift rails and forks from the shift
housing. Use care not to lose the poppet balls and
springs.
Note; On CJ-5 A and C J-6A models equipped with
side-shift remote-control transmission it is necessary to remove the main drive gear before the shift
forks can be removed.
e. Remove the three screws and washers attaching
the front main drive gear bearing retainer to the
transmission. Remove the retainer and gasket,
d. Remove the two socket-head screws from the
front end of the transmission case. These screws
support the oil collector inside the case.
N o t e : The oil collector has been discontinued in
late production transmission assemblies.
11881
F I G . J-6—MAIN SHAFT R E T A I N I N G
PLATE
13321
F I G . J-7—T86AA T H R E E - S P E E D T R A N S M I S S I O N — C A N E S H I F T
1—Bearing Retainer Screws
2—Main Drive Gear Bearing Retainer
3—Bearing Retainer Oil Seal
, 4—Bearing Snap Ring
5 — Main Drive Gear Snap Ring
6—Main Drive Gear Bearing
7— Front Bearing Oil Retaining Washer
8—Main Drive Gear
9—Pilot Roller Bearing
10— Shift Rail Cap
11—Poppet Ball
12—Poppet Spring
13— Lock Washer
14—Shift Housing Bolt
15—Control Housing
16—Interlock Plunger
17—Shift Lever Spring
18—Shift Tower Gasket
19—Blocking Ring
20— Clutch Hub Snap Ring
21—Synchronizer Spring
22—Synchronizer Plate
23— Clutch Hub
24— Clutch Sleeve
25—High and Intermediate Clutch Fork
26— Shift Fork Pin
27—High and Intermediate Shift Rail
28— Second Speed Gear
29—Main Shaft
30—Low and Reverse Sliding Gear
31—Low and Reverse Shift Fork
32—Low and Reverse Shift Rail
33—Bearing Spacer
34——Rear Bearing Adapter
35—Rear Bearing
36—Rear Bearing Snap Ring
37— Nut
38—Washer
39—Transfer Case Drive Gear
40—Lock Plate
41 —Countershaft
42—Rear Countershaft Thrust
Washer (steel)
43— Rear Countershaft Thrust
Washer (bronze)
44—Countershaft Bearing Washer
45— Countershaft Bearing
46— Countershaft Center Bearing Spacer
47—Reverse Idler Gear Shaft
48—Reverse Idler Gear Bearing Washer
49— Reverse Idler Gear Roller Bearings
50—Reverse Idler Gear
51— Countershaft Gear
52— Countershaft Front Thrust Washer
53—Plug
54— Shift Lever
55—Transmission Case
56—Retainer Gasket
245
J
THREE-SPEED
FIG. J-8—SHAFT L O C K P L A T E
TRANSMISSION
FIG. J-l0—COUNTERSHAFT
BEARING SPACERS
e. Tap lightly on the front end of the countershaft
to loosen the lock plate. Remove the lock plate
from slots cut in the rear ends of the countershaft
and reverse idler shaft. Refer to Fig. J-8.
f. Using special tool No. W-166 or a brass drift,
drive the countershaft toward the rear of the case
and remove it. The countershaft gear set will drop
to the bottom of the transmission case. I f the
special tool is used, the needle bearing rollers will
remain in the countershaft gear hub and the gears
and bearings may later be removed as an assembly.
g. Remove the mainshaft rear bearing adapter.
h. Remove the mainshaft and gears from the case.
The mainshaft assembly with the gears still in place
may be removed through the rear bearing adapter
opening. Do not lose pilot roller bearing when
separating shafts.
i. On early production transmissions drive the main
drive gear into the case enough to remove the oil
collector. Remove the oil collector from the transmission case.
j . Remove the main drive gear,
k. Remove the countershaft gear set and the three
thrust washers. Remove the washers, needle bearing rollers, and spacer from the assembly.
1, Remove the reverse idler shaft and gear by
driving the shaft into the case using a brass drift,
m. This completes the disassembly of the transmission on those models with a cane shift,
n. On CJ-5 A and CJ-6 A models equipped with a
remote shift transmission, inspect the poppet and
interlock assembly which floats between the shift
lever assemblies described in Par. J-9.
J-9- Transmission Interlocking Sleeve
I inspection
a. The interlock sleeve and poppet assembly
should be carefully checked. Should the assembly
be too long, it will be impossible to shift gears and
if it is too short, it will fail to function as an interlock to prevent shifting into two gears at one time.
Locate the intermediate-and-high control arm for
second gear position. Use a feeler gauge to measure
the clearance between the ends of the interlock
sleeve and the notched surface of each shift lever
as shown in Fig. J - l 1.
Clearance must be from .001" to .007" [0,025 a
0,178 mm.] on each side of the interlock sleeve.
To obtain correct clearance, interlock sleeves are
available for selective fit.
The different lengths can be identified by a letter
at the end.
1.287" [3,269 cm.] — etched C
1.291" [3,279 cm.] — etched B
1.295" [3,289 cm.] — etched A
1.299" [3,299 cm.] — no mark
1.303" [3,309 cm.] — etched D
Should an interlock sleeve need replacing, proceed
as follows:
Where necessary drive out the taper retaining pins
from the bottom of the shift lever bosses. Remove
the nuts, lock washers, and flat washers from the
FIG. J-9—COUNTERSHAFT G E A R BEARING ARBOR
FIG. J-l 1—INTERLOCK S L E E V E C L E A R A N C E
246
4
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L SERIES S E R V I C E M A N U A L
control levers and remove arms. Remove the shift
levers and then remove the sleeve, poppet balls,
spring, and interlock pin. Check the oil seal carefully for oil leakage and replace if necessary,
b. If it is evident that a minimum clearance of
.001" to .007" [0,025 a 0,178 mm.] cannot be
obtained between the end of the interlock sleeve
and the shift levers, even though the longest sleeve
has been installed, replace the existing sleeve with
an Interlock Sleeve Service K i t .
When assembling the interlock sleeve be sure that
the shift lever poppet spring works freely inside the
interlock sleeve and that the interlock pin is not
omitted from inside the spring.
If the notched surfaces of the shifting lever are
dirty or rough, they should be cleaned and
smoothed. If notched surfaces are scored or damaged, the lever should be replaced.
Each time an interlock sleeve or shift lever is
replaced, check the clearance between the interlock sleeve and the shift lever.
J-10. T r a n s m i s s i o n I n s p e c t i o n
a. Wash the transmission case thoroughly inside
and outside with cleaning solvent.
b. Check bearing and shaft bores. Inspect the case
for cracks. Check the front and rear faces and dress
off any burrs with a fine mill file. If cracks are found
or the bores are not true, replace the case.
c. Clean and inspect all gears and bronze blocking
rings for cracks, chipped or cracked teeth, or excessive wear of the teeth.
d. Inspect all bushings and bearings for wear or
damage.
e. Check first and reverse sliding gear for freedom
of movement on the mainshaft.
f. Check the clutch sleeve to see that it slides
freely on the hub.
g. Check the condition of the bearing retainer oil
seal.
J-11. T r a n s m i s s i o n R e a s s e m b l y —
T90, T86AA
• Refer to Fig. J-5, J-7
Assemble the unit in the reverse order of disassembly, noting the following points:
a. Oil circulation is provided between the transmission and transfer case by the addition of drilled
passages between the two units. The rear face of
the transmission case is drilled with two %"
11,11 mm], holes and two
[6,35 mm.] holes.
The front face of the transfer case is drilled with
two %" [11,11 mm.] holes to register with those
drilled in the transmission case. When making replacement of either unit or case, it is important that
mating parts be installed, that is, if a transmission
case is drilled use a drilled transfer case. It is important that the correct gasket, having openings for
oil passage, be used with the drilled cases.
b. Position the reverse idler gear in the case and
install the shaft using care that the slot at the shaft
end is correctly aligned to receive the lock plate.
c. Assemble the spacer, six washers, and four
J
countershaft needle bearings in the countershaft
gear hub, using special tool W-166 with loading
sleeve, as shown in Fig. J-9 and J-10. Place the
spacer inside the hub and insert the special tool in
the spacer. Place a washer at each end of the spacer
and load a set of bearing rollers at each end. Then
add a washer, a set of bearing rollers, and finally
another washer at each end to complete the assembly. Place the countershaft gear assembly in
the case but do not install the countershaft until
the mainshaft and main drive gear are installed.
d. When assembling the mainshaft gears, the low
and reverse sliding gear is installed with the shift
shoe groove toward the front of the transmission.
e. The sequence of assembly of the synchronizer
unit is shown in Fig. J-4. First install the two
springs in the high and intermediate clutch hub
with the spring tension opposed. Place the right
lipped end of one spring in a slot of the hub and
place the spring in the hub. Turn the hub around
and make exactly the same installation with the
other spring, starting with the same slot. Install the three synchronizer shifting plates in the
three slots in the hub with the smooth side of the
plates out. Hold the plates in position and slip the
second and direct speed clutch sleeve over the hub
with the long beveled edge toward the long part
of the clutch hub. Install the two blocking rings
one on each side of the hub. Install the completed
assembly on the mainshaft with the beveled edge
of the clutch sleeve toward the front end of the
shaft.
f. Install main drive gear bearing onto the main
drive gear shaft, using tool KF-128A.
g. When installing the mainshaft, use care that
the needle bearing rollers in the main drive gear
are correctly positioned. Use heavy grease to hold
them in position for assembly.
h. The countershaft gear set, when assembled in
the case, should have .012" to .018" [0,305 a 0,457
mm.] end play. This clearance is obtained by
selective thickness of the rear steel thrust washer
which is available in .0555" and .0625" [1,410 a
1,587 mm.] thickness.
After installation of the front and rear bearing
retainers on the mainshaft, turn the transmission
over to allow the gears to mesh and also to permit
alignment and installation of the countershaft.
i. To install the countershaft gear set in the
case, first install the large bronze thrust washer
at the front of the case with the lip of the washer
entered in the slot of the case. Use heavy grease
to hold this washer in position. Next, install the
steel thrust washer at the rear of the case. Start
the countershaft into the case just enough to hold
this washer in place. Align the slot in the countershaft with the slot in the reverse idler gear shaft
to permit installation of the lock plate. Be sure the
thrust washers are correctly positioned. Then
position the bronze-faced washer against the rear
end of the gear and place the gear in its running
position. Tap the countershaft through the countershaft gear set and the case, forcing out the special
tool W-166.
j . Attach the transfer case to the transmission
247
J
T H R E E - S P E E D TRANSMISSION
before the unit is installed in the vehicle. When
doing this, use care that the countershaft and
reverse idler shaft lock plate shown in Fig. J-8
is correctly positioned in the recess in the transfer
case housing. Three \ Y%" long [2,86 cm.] screws and
two 1" long [2,54 cm.] screws are used to attach the
transfer case housing to the transmission housing.
Install the 1" long [2,54 cm.] screws in the lower
left and lower right mounting holes.
F I G . J-12—SYNCHRONIZER SPRINGS
J-12. Transmission — T96
• Model DJ-5, DJ-6
a. Remove the shift housing and gasket from the
top of the transmission case if it has not been previously removed. The shift housing can be disassembled, if necessary, at this point by removing the
shift rails and forks from the shift housing. Use
care and do not lose the poppet balls and springs.
b. Drain the lubricant from housing and wash
the assembly with a suitable solvent.
c. Remove the screws from the front main bearing
retainer and remove retainer.
d. Remove nut which attaches the companion
flange to the main shaft; also the flat washer and
lock washer.
e. Remove the companionflangewith special puller
tool W-172.
f. Remove the screws attaching the rear bearing
retainer to case and remove retainer and gasket.
g. Remove oil seal speedometer drive gear and
main shaft rear bearing from the bearing retainer.
h . Remove the reverse idler and countershaft
lock plate.
i. Using tool W-193 or a soft drift, drive the
countershaft out through the rear of the case allowing the counterhsaft gears to drop to the bottom
of the case.
j . Remove the main drive gear with bearing
through the front of the case. Note that this gear
cannot be removed when the countershaft gears are
248
in position. Take care when removing this gear not
to misplace the thirteen needle type rollers in the
gear end of the shaft which make up the main shaft
pilot bearing.
k. Remove the main shaft snap ring, the main
shaft bearing snap ring and the mainshaft bearing
which is grooved, from the main shaft.
I. Remove the bronze blocking ring then remove
the clutch hub and synchronizer assembly through
the top.
m . Remove the low and reverse sliding gears and
the constant mesh gear and main shaft in one unit,
through the top.
n. Remove the countershaft gears through the
top. Take care not to misplace the twenty rollers
at each end of the long spacer as well as the two
thrust washers and the two roller spacer bearings,
o. Using a soft drift, drive the reverse idler shaft
out toward the rear and remove the gear.
J-13. Transmission Cleaning and Inspection
Refer to Fig. J-7.
a. Wash the transmission case inside and outside
with cleaning solvent.
b. Check bearing and shaft bores. Inspect the case
for cracks. Check the front and rear faces and
dress off any burrs with a fine mill file. If cracks
are found or the bores are not true, replace the case.
c. Clean and inspect all gears and bronze blocking
rings for cracks, chipped or cracked teeth, or excessive wear of the teeth.
N o t e : Whenever any transmission gear requires
replacement, the gear with which it meshes should
also be replaced.
d. Inspect all bushings and bearings for wear or
damage.
e. Check low-and-reverse sliding gear for freedom
of movement on the main shaft.
f. Check the intermediate-and-high clutch sleeve
to see that it slides freely on the intermediate-andhigh clutch hub.
J-14. Transmission Reassembly —- T96
a. Position the reverse idler gear in the case and
install the shaft using care that the slot at the shaft
end is correctly aligned to receive the lock plate.
b. To assemble the countershaft gear, it is necessary to use Tool W-193 or equivalent Fig. J-9. Place
the special tool through the gear set and insert the
long spacer positioning it at the center of the gear
set. Place a set of twenty rollers at each end of the
spacer followed by a spacing washer at each end.
A small amount of grease will hold the spacing
washer in position. Place the assembled countershaft gear set in the bottom of the case with the
large gear toward the front.
C* Install the rear main shaft bearing on the main
shaft with the closed side of the bearing toward
the front or low end of the shaft. Replace the bearing snap ring and main shaft snap ring,
d. Pass the front end of the main shaft through
the rear bearing opening and assemble the low and
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
reverse sliding gear on the shaft with the shifting
fork groove toward the rear.
e. Assemble the second speed gear on the shaft
with the teeth which engage in the clutch sleeve
toward the front of the case.
f. Next, assemble the synchronizer unit. The assembly sequence of the synchronizer is shown in
Fig. J-12. First install the two springs in the high
and intermediate clutch hub. These springs must
be installed with the spring tension opposed. Place
the right lipped end of a spring in a slot of the
hub and place the spring in the hub. Turn the hub
around and make exactly the same installation
with the other spring starting with the same slot.
Fig. J-5. Install the three synchronized shifting
plates in the three slots in the hub with the smooth
side of the plates out. Hold the plates in position
and slip the second and direct speed clutch sleeve
over the hub. Install the two blocking rings one
one each side of the hub.
g. Place some heavy grease in the main shaft
pilot and position the thirteen needle type roller
bearings.
h. Install the main drive gear. If the bearing has
been removed, note that the closed side is assembled
toward the inside of the case.
i. Enter the main shaft bearing in the case and
assemble the shaft in position.
j . Install the front bearing retainer.
k. For ease in installing the countershaft, turn the
transmission case over to allow the gears to mesh.
With the countershaft thrust washers correctly
positioned, start the countershaft through the rear
of the case with the lock plate slot toward the rear
and the slot in alignment with the slot in the
12879
F I G . J-13—T14A T H R E E - S P E E D
1— Retainer Screws
2—Main Drive Gear Bearing Retainer
3— Retainer Gasket
4— Oil Seal
5— Snap Ring (small)
6— Snap Ring (large)
7—Main Drive Gear Bearing
8—Oil Retaining Washer (slinger)
9— Main Drive Gear
10—Mainshaft Pilot Bearing Rollers
11— Case
12— Nut
13—Flatwasher
14— Spacer
TRANSMISSION
15— Bearing Adapter
16— Snap Ring
17— Mainshaft Bearing
18—Reverse Gear
19— Snap Ring
2 0 — Low Synchronizer Assembly
21— Synchronizer Blocking Ring
22—Low Gear
23— Mainshaft
24—Second Gear
25—Synchronizer Blocking Ring
26—Second-Third Synchronizer Assembly
2 7 — Synchronizer Blocking Ring
2 8 — Snap Ring
2 9 — Countershaft Front Thrust Washer (large)
3 0 — Countershaft Gear
31—Reverse Idler Gear Bearing Washer
32—Reverse Idler Gear Roller Bearings
33—Reverse Idler Gear
34— Countershaft Rear Thrust Washer (small)
35—Countershaft Bearing Spacer Washer*
36—Reverse Idler Shaft
37— Countershaft Roller Bearings
38— Spacer Washer
39— Countershaft
40— Lockplate
249
T H R E E - S P E E D TRANSMISSION
14271
F I G . J-14—-CANE S H I F T C O N T R O L H O U S I N G A S S E M B L Y
1— Shift Lever Knob
2 — Shift Lever
3 — Control Housing
4— Plug
5— Shift R a i l (Second-Third)
6— Shift R a i l Cap
7— Interlock Plunger
8— Shift R a i l (Low-Reverse)
9 — Shift Lever Fulcrum B a l l
10—-Pin
11— Shift Lever Support Spring
12— Shift Fork
reverse idler gear shaft. Press the shaft through
the gears and into the front of the case, forcing
out Tool W-193.
I. Locate the lock plate in the slots of the reverse
idler gear shaft and countershaft. Tap the two
shafts until lock plate is tight against case,
m . Install rear bearing snap ring and rear mainshaft bearing on shaft.
250
13—Poppet Ball
14—Poppet Spring
15— Gasket
16— Lockwasher
17—Bolt
n. Attach rear bearing retainer and gasket to the
transmission case. Tighten cap screws evenly and
securely.
o . Install speedometer drive gear on shaft with
the shoulder of gear toward the front. Check
the oil seal which is installed next and replace with
new one if necessary.
p. Install the companion coupling flange with the
J
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
flat washer, lock washer and nut.
q. Check the complete transmission for operation.
r. Install transmission case cover.
J-15. T 1 4 A T R A N S M I S S I O N
The T14A is a three speed fully synchronized (all
forward gears) transmission with helical drive gears
throughout.
The main drive gear is supported by a ball bearing
at the front end of the transmission case and is
piloted at its front end in an oil impregnated bushing mounted in the crankshaft.
The front end of the mainshaft is piloted in a row
of roller bearings set into the hollow end of the main
drive gear and the rear end is carried by a ball
bearing mounted in the rear transmission case.
The counter gear is carried on a single row of
rollers at both ends. The reverse idler gear is carried
on a single row of rollers in the center. Thrust is
taken on thrust washers located between the ends
of the counter and reverse idler gear and the thrust
bosses in the case.
The three forward gears (low, second, third) are
fully synchronized. The synchronizer assemblies
consist of clutch hubs, clutch sleeves, clutch springs,
and three synchronizer plates and are retained on
the mainshaft by a select fit snap ring.
The shift is manual through a cane shift lever and
interlock assembly to the rearward shift fork
operating low and reverse gear and to the forward
shift fork operating second and third gear.
12885
FIG. J-16—REMOVING MAIN
GEAR BEARING
DRIVE
1—W-329 Puller
d. Remove main drive gear bearing retainer and
gasket.
e. Remove main drive gear and mainshaft bearing
snap rings.
f. Remove the main drive gear and mainshaft
bearings using bearing puller set W-329. Refer to
Figs. J-16 and J - l 7 .
J-16. T R A N S M I S S I O N D I S A S S E M B L Y —
T14A
Refer to Fig. J-13.
a. If the transfer case is attached, separate it from
the transmission by removing the five capscrews
and lockwashers.
b. Remove cane shift housing cover and gasket
from top of transmission case. The shift housing
cover can be disassembled if necessary, at this
point, by removing the shift rails, poppet balls,
springs, and shift forks. Refer to Fig. J-14.
c. Remove nut and flat washer securing transfer
case drive gear on the mainshaft. Remove transfer
case drive gear, adapter, and spacer. Refer to
Fig. J-15.
FIG. J-17—REMOVING MAINSHAFT B E A R I N G
1—W-329 Puller
F I G . J-15—TRANSFER CASE D R I V E
GEAR ASSEMBLY
1—Bearing Adapter
2—Bearing Spacer
3—Transfer Case Drive Gear
4—F l a t Washer
5—Nut
g. Remove main drive gear from transmission case.
h. Remove mainshaft and gears as an assembly,
through the case cover opening as shown in Fig.
J-18.
i. Remove the lockplate by tapping lightly on the
front end of the countershaft and reverse idler
shaft. Remove lockplate from slots in shafts. Refer
to Fig. J-19.
j . Using Tool W-335, drive the countershaft rearward, out of the case, as shown in Fig. J-20. The
countershaft gear assembly will drop to the bottom
of the case. Using Tool W-335 will ensure that the
roller bearings will remain in the countershaft gear
hub and may be removed as an assembly.
251
J
T H R E E - S P E E D TRANSMISSION
FIG. J-21—REMOVING-INSTALLING
REVERSE IDLER GEAR
1— Washer
2—Arbor Tool W-336
3— Reverse Idler Gear
4—Reverse Idler Shaft
12866
FIG. J-l8—REMOVING-INSTALLING
MAINSHAFT GEAR ASSEMBLY
k. Remove the countershaft gear assembly and the
two thrust washers. Remove spacer washers, bearing rollers, and spacer from the countergear hub
assembly for inspection.
I. Using Tool W-336 drive the reverse idler shaft
rearward, out of the case. Remove reverse idler
gear, washers, and roller hearings as an assembly.
Refer to Fig. J-21.
m . Remove the clutch hub snap ring and the
second-third synchronizer assembly from the mainshaft. Refer to Fig. j-22.
1285S
FIG. J-19—REMOVING-INSTALLING
V
LOCKPLATE
1— Reverse Idler Shaft
2— Lockplate
3— Countershaft
^^r"***
12852
FIG. J-22—REMOVING-INSTALLING SECONDT H I R D C L U T C H H U B SNAP R I N G
1— Second-Third Synchronizer Assembly
2— Snap Ring
3— Mainshaft
12884
FIG.
J-20—REMOVING-INSTALLING
COUNTERSHAFT
1—Arbor Tool W-335
2 —Counter gear
3—Countershaft
252
n. Remove second speed gear from mainshaft.
o. Remove reverse gear from mainshaft.
p. Remove the clutch hub snap ring, and the low
synchronizer assembly from the mainshaft. Refer
to Fig. J-23.
q. Remove low speed gear from mainshaft.
r. This completes the transmission disassembly.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
FIG.
J-23—REMOVING-INSTALLING
LOW C L U T C H HUB SNAP R I N G
Refer to Fig. J-24.
Second-Third Synchronizer Unit.
a. Remove springs (one on each side of unit).
b. Mark sleeve and hub before separating to ensure proper installation at time of assembly.
c. Remove hub from sleeve.
d. Remove the three synchronizer plates from third
speed side of the hub.
e. Clean and inspect synchronizer assembly parts.
f. Assemble synchronizer in reverse order of disassembly, making certain the two synchronizer
spring openings are installed 120° of each other,
with spring tension opposed.
Low Synchronizer Unit.
Refer tc- Fig. J-25.
The low synchronizer assembly is serviced in the
same manner as second-third with exception of one
synchronizer spring.
1— Mainshaft
2— Snap Ring
3— Snap Ring Groove
4—Low Synchronizer Assembly
J-17.
DISASSEMBLY SYNCHRONIZER
ASSEMBLIES
Important: Should a synchronizer assembly
(either low-and-reverse or second-and-high) be replaced for any reason on a cane shift transmission,
the shift fork that operates the synchronizer being
replaced must have an identifying letter "A" appearing just under the shaft hole on the side
opposite the pin. If the letter "A" does not appear
on the existing fork, it must be replaced with a fork
that has a letter "A" appearing thereon.
12853
FIG.
J-25- - L O W S Y N C H R O N I Z E R
ASSEMBLY
1 —Clutch Hub
2— Shifter Plate
3— Synchronizer Spring (1)
4— Clutch Sleeve
J-18. T R A N S M I S S I O N C L E A N I N G AND
INSPECTION
Refer to Fig. J-13.
a. Wash transmission case inside and outside with
cleaning solvent.
b. Check bearing and shaft bores. Inspect the case
for cracks. Check the front and rear faces and dress
off any burrs with a fine mill file. If cracks are
found and bores are not ture, replace the case.
c. Clean and inspect all gears and bronze blocking
rings for cracks, chipped or cracked teeth, or excessive wear of the teeth.
Note: Whenever any transmission gear requires
replacement, the gear with which it meshes should
also be replaced.
FIG.
J-24—SECOND-THIRD
SYNCHRONIZER
ASSEMBLY
1—Synchronizer Spring (2)
2— Clutch Hub
3— Clutch Sleeve
4—Shifter Plate
d. Inspect all bearings or bushings for wear or
damage.
e. Check the second-third, and low synchronizer
clutch sleeves making certain they slide freely on
the clutch hub.
253
J
THREE-SPEED TRANSMISSION
J-19. T R A N S M I S S I O N R E A S S E M B L Y —
T14A
N o t e ; Lubricate all internal transmission parts
before assembly using the proper lubricant.
a. Position reverse idler gear w i t h Arbor Tool
W-336, roller bearings, and thrust washers in the
case. Install reverse idler shaft forcing out Tool
W-336. Make certain the slot end of the idler shaft
is correctly aligned to receive the lockplate. Refer
to Fig. J-19.
FIG. J-26—COUNTERSHAFT
BEARING ARBOR
GEAR
1— Roller Bearings
2— Spacer
3—Arbor Tool W-335
b . Assemble the countergear center spacer, four
bearing spacers, and countershaft bearing rollers
in the countershaft gear hub assembly as follows,
using Arbor Tool W-335. Place the center spacer
inside the hub and insert Arbor Tool i n the spacer.
Place a bearing spacer at each end of the center
spacer and load a set of bearing rollers, and place
a bearing spacer at each end to complete the assembly. Refer to Fig. J-26 and J-27.
c . Install large countergear thrust washer in the
front of the case. Position small thrust washer on
the countershaft gear hub w i t h lip facing groove in
the case. Holding the countershaft gear assembly
in position, start the countershaft in the rear of the
case w i t h the lockplate slot toward the rear and the
slot i n alignment w i t h the slot i n the reverse idler
F I G . J-27—COUNTERSHAFT
BEARINGS
AND SPACERS I N S T A L L E D
1— Countershaft Gear
2— Countershaft Bearing Rollera
3— Countershaft
4 — Spacers
5 —Center Spacer
254
FIG. J-28—LOCKPLATE
INSTALLATION
1—Reverse Idler Shaft
2—Lockplate
3— Countershaft
gear shaft. Press shaft through the gear hub assembly and into the front of the case forcing out
Tool W-335.
d . Locate the lockplate i n the slots of the reverse
idler shaft and countershaft. Tap the two shafts
alternately until lockplate is tight against case.
Refer to Fig. J-28.
e. When assembling the mainshaft, first install
mainshaft low gear and bronze blocking ring. I n stall the low synchronizer assembly, then install
the select fit snap ring. Refer to Fig. J-23.
N o t e ; Mainshaft snap rings are select fit to eliminate clutch hub and main drive gear bearing
end play. Make certain correct snap ring is installed
at assembly.
f. Install the mainshaft second gear and bronze
blocking ring. Install the second-third synchronizer
assemblv, then install select fit snap ring. See
Fig. J-22.
g. Install reverse gear on mainshaft.
h. Install the mainshaft and gear assembly as a
unit, through the top cover opening of the transmission case. Refer to Fig. J-18.
i . Install bronze blocking ring onto the secondt h i r d synchronizer assembly.
j . Install main drive gear roller bearings using low
melting point grease to hold them in place. Refer
to Fig. J-29.
k. Install the main drive gear and oil retainer
washer (slinger) into the case w i t h the cutaway
portion of the gear positioned downward toward
the countergear assembly. Guide main drive gear
onto the mainshaft using care not t o drop the roller
bearings, as shown in Fig. J-30.
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L
J
S E R I E S S E R V I C E MANUAL
12882
FIG. J-31—INSTALLING MAIN
DRIVE GEAR BEARING
1— Tool SP-5364 Short Driver
2— Tool W-334 Thrust Yoke
3— Tool W-331 Long Driver
4— Wood Block
F I G . J-29—MAIN D R I V E G E A R
ROLLER BEARINGS INSTALLED
1— Roller Bearings
2— Cutaway M a i n Drive Gear
I. Install main drive gear and mainshaft bearings
using bearing installer set W-331 together with a
thrust yoke Tool W-334 to prevent damage to the
synchronizer clutch. Install thrust yoke Tool.W-334
into the second speed gear groove and between the
main drive gear (steel) clutch teeth and bronze
synchronizer ring. Use both bearing drivers
(W-331, SP-5364) and a backup block when driving
bearings into position, as shown in Figs. J-31
and J-32.
m . Install main drive gear and mainshaft bearing
snap rings.
Note: The mainshaft bearing snap ring is .010"
[0,254 mm.] thicker than the main drive gear bear-
FIG. J-30—INSTALLING MAIN
DRIVE GEAR ASSEMBLY
1— Oil Retainer Washer (Slinger)
2— Main Drive Gear
3— Mainshaft
FIG. J-32—INSTALLING MAINSF
BEARING
1— Wood Block
2—Tool W-331 Long D r i v e r
3— Tool W-334 Thrust Yok 4— Tool SP-5364 Short T
F I G . J-33—MAIN D R I V E G E A R B E A R I N G
RETAINER OIL SEAL
255
THREE-SPEED TRANSMISSION
ing snap ring. Care should be taken to install the
proper snap ring at these locations.
f l . Install the mainshaft rear bearing adapter,
spacer, transfer case drive gear, flat washer, and
nut. Torque nut 130 to 170 lb-ft. [17,9 a 23,5 kg-m.].
Refer to Fig. J-15.
o. Check the main drive bearing retainer oil seal.
I f seal is worn or damaged i t must be replaced.
Refer to Fig. J-33.
12857
F I G . J-35—MAINSHAFT GEAR T R A I N — N E U T R A L
1—Reverse Gear
2— L o w Synchronizer Assembly
3— L o w Gear
4—Second Gear
5 — Second-Third Synchronizer Assembly
6— M a i n D r i v e Gear
12858
F I G . J-34—INSTALLING MAIN D R I V E G E A R
BEARING RETAINER
-Gasket
-Bearing Retainer
p. Install main drive gear bearing retainer gasket,
and retainer assembly. Make certain the oil drain
hole slot in the retainer housing and gasket are
aligned. Install the three ferry type screws and
washers. Refer to Fig. J-34.
q. Install the transmission case cover gasket,
p. Position the transmission gear train and shift
cover housing assembly i n neutral. Enter the
shifter forks into the clutch sleeves and align cover,
case and gasket holes. Install capscrews and lockwashers and torque 8 to 15 lb-ft. [1,1 a 2,1 kg-m.].
Refer to Figs. J-35 and J-36.
S. This completes the transmission reassembly.
256
F I G . J-36—INSTALLING CANE SHIFT
COVER ASSEMBLY
1— Control Housing' Cover•''
2— Gasket
3— Second-Third Shift F o r k
4—Low-Reverse Shift F o r k
J
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
J-20 TRANSMISSION S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS
SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE REMEDY
Lock in T w o G e a r s
Replace Poppet or Shift Levers
Slips O u t of H i g h Gear
Align Transmission Case to Bellhousing
and Bellhousing to Engine
Tighten Front Retainer
Replace
Transmission Misaligned with Bellhousing
E n d Play in Main Drive Gear
Damaged Pilot Bearing or Front Bearing.
Slips O u t of Second
Worn Gear
Weak Poppet Spring
Replace
Replace
Noise i n L o w Gear
Gear Teeth Worn
Shifting Shoe Bent
Lack of Lubrication
Replace Gears
Replace Shoe
Drain and Refill
Grease Leak i n t o Bellhousing
Gasket Broken Front Bearing Retainer
Transmission Main Drive Gear Oil Seal
Replace
Replace
J-21. TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS
3-SPEED
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
Vehicle:
Make
Type
Speeds
Ratios: — First
Second
Third
Fourth
Reverse
Interlock Poppet Clearance. . .
CJ-3B, CJ-5, CJ-5A,
CJ-6, C J - 6 A
DJ-5, DJ-6
Warner
T90C
Synchronous Mesh
3 Forward — 1 Reverse
3.339 to 1
1.551 to 1
1.000 to 1
Warner
T96
Synchronous Mesh
3 Forward — 1 Reverse
2.605 to 1
1.630 to 1
1.000 to 1
3.798 to 1
3.536 to 1
.001" to .007"
[0,025 a 0,178 mmJ
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
Vehicle:
Make
Model
Type..
Speeds
Ratios: — First
Second
Third
Reverse
3-SPEED
CJ-5, CJ-6, CJ-5A, CJ-6A
DJ-5, DJ-6
Late C J - 5 , C J - 6
Warner
AS7 T 8 6 A A
Synchromesh
3 Forward — 1 Reverse
2.798 to 1
1.687 to 1
1.000 to 1
3.798 to 1
Warner
AS9 T 8 6 A A
Synchromesh
3 Forward — 1 Reverse
2.798 to 1
1.687 to 1
1.000 to 1
3.798 to 1
Warner
T14A
Synchromesh
3 Forward — 1 Reverse
3.100 to 1
1.612 to 1
1.000 to 1
3.100 to 1
257
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Jl
FOUR-SPEED TRANSMISSION
Contents
SUBJECT
PAF.
GENERAL.
Jl-1
SUBJECT
PAR.
Four-Speed Transmission Control Housing
Reasse mbly
FOUR-SPEED TRANSMISSION
REMOVAL.
Four-Speed Transmission Disassembly
Four-Speed Transmission Control Housing
Disassembly
Four-Speed Transmission Reassembly
Jl-6
Jl-2
Transfer Case Adapter Plate Oil Seal
. . Jl-8
. Jl-3
Four-Speed Transmission Installation
Jl-7
Jl-4
Jl-5
FOUR-SPEED TRANSMISSION
SPECIFICATIONS. .
S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS
. Jl-10
Jl-9
10771
FIG. Jl-1—FOUR-SPEED TRANSMISSION
1— Control Housing Gasket
2— Control Housing Assembly
3—Mainshaft Assembly
4— Thrust Washer
5—Thrust Washer
6—Reverse Shifting Shoe
7— Reverse Shifting Arm
8— C-Washer
9—Reverse Shifting Arm Pivot
1 0 — O-Ring
11—Reverse Idler Gear Assembly
12—Snap Ring
1 3 — Thrust Washer
14—Sleeve
15— Bearing Rollers
16— Spacer
17—Reverse Idler Gear
18—Pipe Plug
19—Countershaft Gears
20—Bearing Rollers
21— Spacer
22—Spacer
23— Thrust Washer
2 4 —Bellhousi ng-to-Transmission
Adapter Plate
25— Bearing Retainer
26—Bearing Retainer Bolt
27—Bearing Retainer Lockwasher
28—Bearing Retainer Gasket
29— Main Drive Gear
30—Bearing Rollers
31—Transmission Case
32—Adapter Plate Lockwasher
33—Adapter Plate Capscrew
34— Side Opening Cover Gasket
35— Side Opening Cover Bolt
36—Side Opening Cover Lockwasher
37— Side Opening Cover
38— Countershaft
39— Shifting Arm Pivot Taper Pin
40— Bearing
41— Snap Ring
42—Oil Seal
43— Spacer
44— Reverse-Idler Gear Shaft
45— Lock Plate
46— Lock Plate Lockwasher
47— Lock Plate Bolt
48— Gasket
49— Adapter Plate
50—Adapter Plate Lockwasher
51— Adapter Plate Bolt
52—Cotter K e y
53— Nut
54— Washer
55— Gasket
259
Jl
FOUR-SPEED TRANSMISSION
J1-1. G E N E R A L
A model T-98 four-speed transmission with a canetype shift is optional on 'Jeep* Models CJ-5 and
CJ-6 equipped with the Hurricane F 4 engine. A
model T-18 four-speed transmission is optional on
the 'Jeep* Model CJ-5 equipped with the Dauntless
V6 engine. These transmissions provide four speeds
forward and one reverse with synchromesh engagement in second, third, and fourth speed.
For quick identification, the optional 4-speed
transmission is 11%" [30,16 cm.] long whereas the
standard 3-speed transmission is 8" [20,32 cm.]
long. However the instructions for removal and
installation of the two transmissions are the same.
J1-2. Four-Speed T r a n s m i s s i o n Removal
Use the procedure outlined under the heading,
" T R A N S M I S S I O N R E M O V A L " Section J Par.
J-6.
FIG. Jl-2—FOUR-SPEED TRANSMISSION
1—Snap Ring
2— Snap Ring
MAIN
3—Bearing
4—Washer
F I G . Jl-3—T-98 F O U R - S P E E D T R A N S M I S S I O N
1—Blocking Ring
2—Direct and Third Clutch Sleeve
3—Snap Ring
4—Spring
5—Shifting Plate
6—Direct and Third Clutch Hub
7—Third Speed Gear Assembly
8—Snap Ring
260
9—Thrust Washer
10— Bearing Rollers
11—Second Speed Gear
12—Spacer
13—Mainshaft
14—Blocking Ring
15—Shifting Plate
16— Poppet Spring
DRIVE GEAR
5—Main Drive Gear
6—Bearing Rollers
MAIN
SHAFT
17—Ball
18—Low and Second Clutch Hub
19—Retaining Ring
20—Low and Second Speed Gear
21—Second Speed Synchronizer Assembly
22— Direct and Third Synchroniser Assembly
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
Jl
1436S
FIG.
Jl-4—T-18 F O U R - S P E E D T R A N S M I S S I O N
1—Blocking R i rng
2— Direct and 1third Clutch Sleeve
3— Snap Ring
4—Spring
5—Shifting Platte
6— Direct and 1rhird Clutch Hub
7— Third Speed Gear Assembly
8 — S n a p Ring
9—Thrust Washer
10—Second Speed Gear
1 1 — Mainshaft
12—Blocking Ring
13—Shifting Plate
14—Poppet Spring
J1-3 4-Speed Transmission Disassembly
• Refer to Fig. J l - 1 .
Note; The models T-98 and T-18 four-speed
transmission are similar in design with exception of
the second speed gear-to-mainshaft arrangement.
In the model T-18 transmission, the second speed
gear is a slide fit on the mainshaft, whereas in the
model T-98 transmission roller bearings and a
spacer are required in this area. Refer to Figs. Jl-3
and J l - 4 .
a. Remove the transmission to transfer case
adapter plate and gasket. Remove the oil seal from
the plate and, if damaged, discard the seal.
b. Remove the transmission control housing assembly. Refer to paragraph Jl-4 for its disassembly.
c. To make certain the two blocking rings, directand-third clutch hub, and direct-and-third clutch
sleeve will be assembled in their original relationship, mark them with a quick drying lacquer or an
electric pencil. Also mark the blocking ring, lowand-second clutch hub, and the low-and-second
speed gear.
d. Slide the low-and-second speed gear toward
the rear of the transmission case.
e. Disengage the reverse shifting arm and reverse
shifting shoe from the reverse idler gear. Remove
the arm from the reverse shifting arm pivot.
f. Move the low-and-second speed gear into neutral
position.
g. Remove the bearing retainer and gasket.
Remove the snap rings from the main drive gear
and the outer race of the ball bearing.
h. With a bearing puller, remove the main drive
gear ball bearing.
MAINSHAFT ASSEMBLY
15—Ball
1 6 — L o w and Second Clutchi H u b
17—Retaining Ring
1 8 — L o w and Second Speed Gear
19—Second Speed Synchroniizer Assembly
20—Direct and Third Synchironizer Assembly
i. Remove the oil slinger.
j . Remove the snap ring from the outer bearing
race of the transmission mainshaft ball bearing.
k. With a bearing puller, remove the mainshaft
ball bearing.
Note: It may be necessary to drive the mainshaft
rearward by striking the end of the main drive
gear with a lead hammer to get sufficient clearance
to install the bearing puller plates.
I. Slide the direct-and-third clutch sleeve to the
rear (third speed) position. Separate the mainshaft
assembly from the main drive gear. Be careful
not to lose any of the mainshaft pilot bearing
rollers.
m . Lift the mainshaft assembly out of the top
of the transmission case.
n. Remove the main drive gear from the transmission case.
o. Remove the mainshaft bearing rollers from the
gear.
p. Mark relationship between synchronizer hubs
and the splines on the mainshaft.
q. Begin disassembly of the main shaft assembly
by removing the snap ring which holds the direct
and third synchronizer assembly on the mainshaft,
r. Remove the front blocking ring from the front
of the shaft.
s. Slide the direct-and-third-synchronizer assembly
and the third-speed-gear assembly off the mainshaft.
t. Remove the snap ring at the rear of the mainshaft. Slide the second synchronizer assembly and
the blocking ring off the mainshaft.
261
Jl
FOUR-SPEED TRANSMISSION
U. On the T-98 transmission remove the snap rings
holding the thrust washer, bearing rollers, secondspeed gear, and spacer on the mainshaft. Slide
these components off the shaft. Refer to Fig. Jl-3.
Note: The second speed gear in the T-18 transmission is a slide fit onto the mainshaft and does
not contain roller bearings or a spacer.
v. If the synchronizer assemblies are to be disassembled and serviced proceed as follows: Wrap
the second-speed synchronizer assembly in a cloth
to prevent losing the lock balls and springs. Push
the clutch hub out of the low-and-second-speed
gear in a direction opposite the shift fork groove.
Remove the cloth. Lift the balls, springs, and
plates out of the hub.
w. Remove the lockplate for the countershaft and
reverse idler gear shaft.
x. Use a pry bar in the slot of the reverse idler gear
shaft to loosen the shaft. Then, slip the reverse
idler gear shaft out of the housing and gear. Lift the
reverse idler gear assembly from the transmission
case.
y. To remove the countershaft, use a heavy brass
drift and drive the countershaft toward the rear of
the transmission case. When the countershaft end
is just about even with the inside of the transmission case, use a dummy shaft to force it the
remainder of the way. (Since a dummy shaft is a
FIG. Jl -5—FOUR-SPEED TRANSMISSION CONTROL PARTS
1—Shift Lever
2— Control Housing Pin
3— Shift Handle
4— Control Housing Cap
5—Washer
6— Control Lever Spring
7—Breather Assembly
8— Reverse Shift Rail
9—Shift Rail Interlock Plunger
10—Expansion Plug
262
11—Low and Second Shift Rail
12—Shift Rail Interlock Pin
13— Direct and Third Shift Rail
14—Control Housing
15—Shift Rail Poppet Spring
16—Shift Rail Poppet Ball
17— Lockwire
18—Low and Second Shift Fork
19— Lock Pin
20— Shift Rail E n d
21— Direct and Third Shift Fork
22— Reverse Plunger
23— Reverse Plunger Spring
24— Reverse Rail E n d
25— Cotter Pin
26— Reverse Plunger Poppet Spring
2 7 — Reverse Plunger Poppet Ball
28— C-Washer
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
necessity for assembly, one should be made at this
time to assist on disassembly. One can be made by
using a \Y% [2,86 cm.] diameter steel rod cut to
9.850* {25,02 cm.] long. Break sharp edges with a
mill file.) Keep the dummy shaft in contact with
the countershaft at all times to prevent dropping
the bearing rollers or thrust washers,
z. With the dummy shaft in position, place the
transmission case on its side and carefully roll the
countershaft gear cluster out of the case,
a a . Complete the disassembly by removing the
dummy shaft, thrust washers, four sets of bearing
rollers, and spacers.
b b . To disassemble the reverse idler gear assembly,
remove one of the snap rings and tap out the
washers, both sets of bearing rollers, center spacer,
and sleeve. Remove the remaining snap ring.
N
J 1 - 4 . 4-Speed T r a n s m i s s i o n C o n t r o l
Housing Disassembly
• Refer to Fig. J l - 5 .
The gearshift lever, spring, and spring seat were
previously removed for removal of the transmission
from the vehicle.
a. Remove the lock pins from the gearshift forks
and gearshift rod ends. Remove the expansion plugs
from the front and rear of the gearshift lever base.
Remove back-up light switch.
b. Remove the center (third and high) gearshift
rod first. Drive this gearshift rod out the rear
of the gearshift lever base. As the gearshift rod is
withdrawn from the center section of the gearshift
base, remove the interlock pin from the crossover hole in the gearshift rod. Before the gearshift
rod is removed from the center section of the gearshift base, place a finger over the hole to prevent
loss of the ball and spring. Then remove the rod.
c» Remove the low- and second-speed gearshift rod
in the same manner.
d. Remove the gearshift rod lock balls and springs
and. with a piece of wire, push the two gearshift rod
interlock plungers out of the pockets in the center
section of the gearshift base.
In the reverse gearshift rod end is a spring-loaded
plunger which prevents the driver from accidentally
shifting into reverse gear. Should this part require
servicing, proceed as follows:
Remove the cotter key from the rod end assembly
and at the same time hold a finger over the hole
to prevent loss of the spring. Then shake out the
spring and ball. Compress the plunger and spring
until the C-washer groove just clears the end of
the casting. Remove the C-washer.
J1-5.
4-speed T r a n s m i s s i o n
Reassembly
• Refer to Fig. Jl-1.
Assemble the unit in the reverse order of disassembly noting the following points:
a . Assemble the countershaft assembly with the
fabricated dummy shaft. The bronze front thrust
washer and the steel backed bronze rear thrust
washer should be coated with stiff lubricant and
installed with the lugs engaged in the notches
in the end of the gear cluster. Place the assembly
Jl
in the transmission case and install the countershaft from the rear, keeping the countershaft and
dummy shaft in contact to prevent dropping
bearing rollers or washers. Tap the countershaft
lightly into position in the front of the case but
do not seat it until the reverse idler gear assembly
and shaft have been installed in the case.
b. Install the reverse idler gear shaft in the case
until the lock plate slot is adjacent to the slot in
the countershaft. Insert the lock plate in the slots
of the shafts making sure the plate ends are square
with the slots. Install the lock plate screw and
lockwasher to act as a pilot while tapping the
shafts alternately into position in the case. Tighten
the lock plate screw securely.
c . Begin assembly of the second speed synchronizer
assembly (see Fig. J l - 6 ) by installing the low-and second-speed clutch hub in the low-and-secondspeed gear. Install the retaining ring in the speed
gear. Install the retaining ring in the low and
FIG. Jl -6—ASSEMBLING SECOND-SPEED
SYNCHRONIZER
1— Low and Second Clutch Gear
2— Ball
3— Low and Second Clutch Hub
4— Shifting Plate
second speed gear. Slide the hub out of the gear
in the direction opposite the shift fork groove
until the holes in the hub are clear of the gear.
Install the shifter plates and springs. Push the
hub back into the gear until the springs touch the
internal teeth of the gear. Push one of the shifter
plates toward the center of the gear while installing
ball. See Fig. Jl-6 . This will hold the ball in position.
Install the other two balls in the same manner.
Be careful when rotating the assembly to prevent
the hub from slipping out of the gear. When the
balls are installed, push the hub into the gear
until the balls snap into the neutral position.
d . Assemble the direct - and - third synchronizer assembly in accordance with the instructions given
in Section J , Par. J - l l e .
e. Start assembly of the mainshaft assembly by
263
Jl
FOUR-SPEED
F I G . Jl-7—SNAP R I N G A N D THRUST
WASHER INSTALLATION—T-98 ONLY
1— Thrust Washer
2— Snap Ring
placing the shaft in a vise (with soft metal covering
the jaws) so that the threaded end of the shaft is
up. Install snap ring and thrust washer at the
forward end of the second-speed gear position.
See Fig. J l - 7 . Install thrust washer with the
recessed side covering the snap ring.
Note: The second speed gear in the T-18 transmission is a slide fit onto the mainshaft and does
not contain roller bearings or a spacer.
On model T-98 transmission, place a rubber band
around the second-speed gear bearing surface on
the shaft. Install the thirty-four bearing rollers Fig.
Jl-3 around the shaft. See Fig. Jl-8. Install spacer
on the shaft. With the tapered shoulder of the
second-speed gear up, slide gear on the shaft far
enough to hold the bearing rollers in place. Remove
the rubber band and slide the gear down onto the
thrust washer. Install the rear snap ring and the
blocking ring onto the tapered shoulder of the gear.
f. Install the second-speed synchronizer assembly
on the mainshaft. Line up the marks made at the
time of disassembly. Install the snap ring.
g. Install the third-speed gear assembly on the
shaft with the tapered shoulder to the front.
Slide the direct-and-third synchronizer assembly
onto the mainshaft, lining up the marks made at
the time of disassembly. Install snap ring.
h . Install main drive gear assembly with roller
bearings in place in front of case. Install mainshaft
264
TRANSMISSION
FIG. Jl-8—SECOND-SPEED GEAR
ASSEMBLY—T-98 ONLY
1— Spacer
2— Bearing Rollers
3—Rubber Band
4—Thrust Washer
assembly through top of case, making sure roller
bearings are not knocked out of place,
i. Temporarily install main drive gear bearing
retainer to support drive gear. Install snap ring
on mainshaft bearing and press bearing on shaft
and into case until snap ring is seated against case,
j - Remove the main drive gear bearing retainer,
install the oil slinger on the drive gear. Install the
snap ring on the main drive gear bearing. Then
press the bearing on the shaft and into the case.
Install the thickest of the four available snap
rings that will fit into the groove on the main
drive gear shaft.
k. Slide main drive gear bearing retainer on the
shaft and hold tightly against transmission. With
a feeler gauge, measure the distance between the
retainer and the case. Select gaskets that will be
.003" to .005" [0,076 a 0,127 mm.] thicker than
space between retainer and case. Install gaskets
and retainer.
I. Complete assembly of transmission. Check
condition of rear oil seal and gaskets.
J1-6. F o u r - S p e e d T r a n s m i s s i o n
Control
Housing Reassembly
Reassembly of the control housing is the reverse of
disassembly. Make sure lock pins are installed in
both shift forks. Install new expansion plugs in
base of the housing. Inspect the transmission
breather for damage and replace if necessary.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
FIG. Jl-9—INCORRECT O I L S E A L POSITION
J1-7.
Installing 4-Speed T r a n s m i s s i o n
Install the four-speed transmission in the reverse
order of the removal, noting the following points:
When installing the front adapter plate (Fig. J l - 1 ,
insert the bearing retainer in the adapter plate and
position the adapter plate against the flywheel
housing. With the adapter plate cap screws tight,
make sure the bearing retainer can be removed
freely. If not, relocate the adapter plate and tighten
again to test proper location of adapter plate.
When installing rear adapter plate, be sure cap
screw heads do not protrude beyond the adapter
plate face or interfere with transfer case fitting
tightly against rear adapter plate.
When installing transfer case gear on the trans-
Jl
FIG. Jl-10—CORRECT O I L SEAL POSITION
mission rear splined drive shaft tighten the large
gear nut securely and insert cotter pin. Sink cotter
pin well into nut slots so it will clear P.T.O. drive.
J1-8. Adapter Plate Oil Seal
It is important that the four-speed transmission
adapter plate oil seal be correctly installed to
prevent flow of lubricant from the transfer case
to the transmission. Should the lubricant level be
low in the transfer case and high in the transmission,
check the position of the oil seal. See Fig. J l - 9 and
Jl-10. Correctly positioned, the lip of the oil seal is
toward the transfer case. Always replace the oil
seal whenever it has been removed.
265
Jl
FOUR-SPEED TRANSMISSION
Jl-9. TRANSMISSION SER¥ICE DIAGNOSIS
PROBABLE REMEDY
SYMPTOMS
L o c k In Two Gears
Replace Poppet or Shift Levers
S l i p s O u t of High Gear
Transmission Misaligned with Bellhousing
E n d Play in Main Drive Gear
Damaged Pilot Bearing or Front Bearing.
Slips O u t of Second
Worn Gear
Weak Poppet Spring
Align Transmission Case to Bellhousing
and Bellhousing to Engine
Tighten Front Retainer
Replace
Replace
Replace
N o i s e i n Low G e a r
Gear Teeth Worn.
Shifting Shoe Bent
Lack of Lubrication
Replace Gears
Replace Shoe
Drain and Refill
Grease Leak into Bellhousing
Gasket Broken Front Bearing R e t a i n e r . . . . . . . . .
Transmission Main Drive Gear Oil Seal
Replace
Replace
Jl-10. TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS
H U R R I C A N E F4 E N G I N E
4-SPEED
Vehicle:
CJ-5, CJ-6
Type..
Ratios: — First
Second
Third
Fourth
D A U N T L E S S V-6 E N G I N E
Vehicle:
Model
Type
Ratios: — First
Second
Third
Fourth
Reverse
266
•
..
Warner
T98A
Synchronous Mesh
4 Forward — 1 Reverse
6.398 to 1
3.092 to 1
1.686 to 1
1.000 to 1
7.820 to 1
4-SPEED
Late C J - 5 Only
Warner
T-18
Synchromesh
4 Forward — 1 Reverse
4.02 to 1
2.41 to 1
1.41 to 1
1.00 to 1
4.73 to 1
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
ft
TRANSFER CASE
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL
. . .K-1
TRANSFER CASE REMOVAL
K-2
TRANSFER CASE DISASSEMBLY
Front Bearing Cap
K-3
K-4
Rear Bearing Cap
K-5
TRANSFER CASE REASSEMBLY.
. .K-6
TRANSFER CASE INSTALLATION
K-7
TRANSFER CASE LINKAGE
ADJUSTMENT
S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS
SPECIFICATIONS
K-1. GENERAL
All 4-wheel-drive models are equipped with a
transfer case to connect the power to the front
axle. It is essentially a two-speed transmission
located at the rear of the standard transmission
and provides a low and direct gear.
The transfer case gears are controlled by the driver
through one shift lever. Early 'Jeep' Universal
Models with the F4-134 Hurricane engine are
equipped with two transfer case shift control levers.
a. On vehicles equipped with one transfer case
shift lever, the transfer case shift lever has four
positions: 2WD High, 4WD High, Neutral, and
4WD low. The forward position of the lever 2WD
High allows the rear wheels only to drive. The
first rear position (4WD High) engages the 4wheel drive and provides high range 4-wheel drive.
The second rear position (Neutral) disengages all
power to the wheels and is used for stationary
power take-off operations. The last rear position
(4WD Low) provides low range 4-wheel drive.
b. On vehicles equipped with two transfer case
shift levers, the transfer case front axle drive lever
(left hand lever) gives a choice of 2-wheel or 4wheel drive. In the forward (out) position the
vehicle is in 2-wheel drive. Move the lever to the
rear (in) position for 4-wheel drive operation.
The 4-wheel-drive auxiliary-range shift lever (right
hand lever) has three positions; low, neutral, and
high. The forward position (low) gives low-range
4-wheel drive. The center position (neutral) disengages all power to the wheels and is used for
stationary power take-off operations. A built-in interlock prevents shifting into low range, 2-wheel
drive. This feature protects the rear axle from overload.
K-8
K-9
.K-10
K-2. Removal of Transfer Case
The transfer case may be removed from the vehicle
without removing the transmission. Where both
transmission and transfer case are to be removed
together, refer to Section J . To remove only the
transfer case from the vehicle, proceed as follows:
a. Drain transmission and transfer case and replace
drain plugs.
b. Disconnect the brake cable.
c. Disconnect front and rear propeller shafts at
the transfer case. See "Propeller Shafts and Universal Joints."
d. Disconnect speedometer cable at transfer case.
e. Disconnect the transfer case shift levers. On
vehicles equipped with two shift levers loosen
set screw and remove pivot pin. Use a screw driver
to pry shift lever springs away from shift levers.
Lift levers from transfer case. On models equipped
with a single shift lever remove pivot pin cotter
key, and the adjusting rod attaching nut to remove
shift lever. See Fig. K-4.
f. Remove cover plate on rear face of transfer case.
Remove cotter key, nut and washer from transmission main shaft.
g. If possible, at this point remove the transfer
case main drive gear from the transmission main
shaft. If not possible, see step j below.
h. Remove transfer case torque reaction support
bracket bolt and nut.
i. Remove transmission to transfer case bolts.
j. Remove transfer case. If the transfer case main
drive gear has not been removed in step g above,
proceed as follows: Brace the end of the transmission main shaft so that it cannot move in the
transmission, pull the transfer case to the rear to
267
TRANSFER CASE
FIG. K-1—TRANSFER CASE — TWO SHIFT
1— Companion Flange
2 — Brake D r u m
3 — Emergency Brake
4—Operating Lever
5 — Oil Seal
6— Lever Stud
7—-Rear Cap
8— Shims
9 — Screw
10— Lockwasher
1 1 —Bolt
12—-Rear Cover
13— Gasket
1 4 —Lock Plate
1 5 — Transfer Case
16— Shift R o d
1 7 —Poppet Plug
18—Poppet Spring
1 9 —Poppet B a l l
20— Interlock
21—Gasket
2 2 —Front Cap
2 3 —Breather
2 4 — Shift Lever Spring
2 6 — S h i f t Lever
25*A—Shift Lever (used with 4-speed
transmission)
268
26— Shift Lever Knob
2 7 — Shift Lever
2 7 A — S h i f t Lever (used with 4-speed
transmission)
2 8 — Pivot P i n
29— Lubrication Fitting
3 0 — Set Screw
3 1 — Oil Seal
3 2 — Front Yoke
3 3 — Gasket
34— Bolt
3 5—Lockwasher
3 6 — Shift Rod
3 7 — Shift Fork
3 8 — Shift Fork
3 9 — Filler Pipe Plug
40—Mainshaft Gear
41— plain Washer
4 2 — Thrust Washer
4 3 — Intermediate Gear
4 4 — Snap Ring
4 5 — Bearing
4 6 —Nut
4 7 —Washer
4 8 — Output Clutch Shaft
4 9 — Output Clutch Gear
5 0 — Snap Ring
LEVERS
5 1 — Thrust Washer
5 2 — Output Shaft Gear
5 3 — Sliding Gear
54— Bushing
5 5 —Output Shaft
5 6 —Cone and Rollers
5 7 — Bearing Cup
5 8 — Speedometer Gear
5 9 — Needle Bearings
60—Bearing Spacers
6 1 — Intermediate Shaft
6 2 — Drain Plug
6 3 —Gasket
64—Nut
6 5 — Bottom Cover
6 6 — Sleeve
6 7 —Speedometer Gear
6 8 — Bushing
6 9 —Gasket
70— Bolt
71—Bolt
7 2 —Hex Nut
72— Bolt
73— Bolt
74— Lockwasher
7 5 —Nut
7 6 — Output Shaft Seal
FIG. K-2—TRANSFER
1— Companion Flange and Oil Seal Guard
2— Emergency Brake Drum
3 — Emergency Brake
4— Brake Operating Lever
5—Bearing Cap Ofl Seal
6— Brake Operating Lever Stud
7—Rear Bearing Cap
8— Rear Bearing Cap Shim Set
9— Bolt
10— Lockwasher
11— Bolt
12—Transfer Case Hear Cover
13—Rear Gasket Cover
14—Intermediate Shaft Lock Plate
1 5 —Transfer Case
1G—Shift Rod
17—Poppet Plug
18—Poppet Spring
CASE — ONE SHIFT
19—Poppet Ball
20— Shift Rod Interlock
21— Bearing Cap Gasket
22— Front Bearing Shaft Cap
23— Breather
24— Shift Rod Oil Seal
25—E n d Yoke
26— Oil Seal Gasket
27— Bolt
2 8—Lockwasher
29— Shift Rod
3 0 — Front Wheel Drive Shift Fork
3 1 —Underdrive and Direct Shift Fork
3 2 — Filler Plug
3 3 — Mainshaft Gear
34— Mainshaft Washer
35—Thrust Washer
36— Intermediate Gear
LEVER
37— Bearing Shaft Snap Ring
3 8 — Output Clutch Shaft Bearing
39— Companion Flange Nut
40— Plain Washer
4 1 — Output Clutch Shaft
4 2 — Output Clutch Shaft Gear
43— Output Shaft Gear Snap Ring
4 4 — Thrust Washer
45— Output Shaft Gear
46— Output Shaft Sliding Gear
47— Pilot Bushing
48— Output Shaft
4 9 —Cone and Rollers
50— Output Shaft Bearing Cup
5 1 — Speedometer Drive Gear (6-T)
52— Needle Bearing
53— Bearing Spacer
54— Intermediate Shaft
55— Drain Plug
56— Bottom Cover Gasket
57— Mainshaft Nut
58— Transfer Case Bottom Cover
59— Speedometer Driven Gear Sleeve
60— Speedometer Driven Gear (15-T)
61— Speedometer Driven Gear Bushing
62—Backing Plate Gasket
63— Bolt
6 4 — Bolt
65— Bolt
66— Bolt
67— Lockwasher
68—Nut
69— Output Shaft Felt Seal
K
TRANSFER CASE
FIG. K-3—UNIVERSAL JOINT F L A N G E P U L L E R
1— U-Joint Flange Puller W-172
2— V-Joint Flange Holding Wrench C-3281
FIG. K-5—BEARING CONE REMOVING
WEDGE
1—Wedge W-139
2 — Cone and Roller
FIG. K-4—TRANSFER CASE SHIFT LINKAGE
CJ-5A, CJ-6A
1—Linkage Adjustment
loosen the gear and remove the gear. When separating the two housings, use care that the transmission
main shaft bearing, which bears in both housings,
remains in the transmission case.
K-3. Transfer Case Disassembly
• Refer to Fig. K-1, K-2.
To remove the gears and bearings from the transfer case on the bench, the following procedure is
recommended.
a. Remove output shaft nuts and washers using
Yoke Holding Wrench, C-3281. Remove rear output shaft companion flange with brake drum (if
270
so equipped) and front output shaft yoke, using
Tool W-172.
b. Remove cover bolts, lockwashers, and bottom
cover.
c. Remove the lockplate screw, lockwasher, and
lock plate.
d. Use a brass punch to drive out intermediate
shaft to the rear of the case. Do not lose the thrust
washers located at each end of the gear shaft.
e. Remove the intermediate gear, two thrust
washers, needle bearings, and spacers, thru the
bottom of the case.
f. Remove the poppet plugs, springs, and balls on
both sides of front bearing cap. Shift front wheel
shift lever to engaged position (shaft forward).
g. Remove the screws, lockwashers, holding the
front bearing cap. Remove the cap as an assembly
including the clutch shaft, bearing, clutch gear,
fork, and shift rod. Use care not to lose the interlock which floats between the shift rods.
h. Remove the screws, lockwashers holding the
brake backing plate assembly (if so equipped)
and rear output cap with speedometer gear assembly. Remove entire unit as an assembly.
i. Use a rawhide hammer to drive against the front
end of output shaft to drive the rear bearing cup
from the case. Use Tool W-139, as shown in Fig.
K-5, to wedge front bearing cone and roller assembly from its seat on the shaft. Place Tool
W-141, Fig. K-6, on the output shaft between the
front bearing and output shaft gear. Use a rawhide
hammer to drive against the rear end of the output
shaft to remove front bearing cup from the case.
Loosen snap ring and slide it forward on the shaft.
Drive the shaft thru the rear of the case. As the
shaft is removed, gears, snap ring, and thrust washer
will remain in the case and can be removed from
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L
S E R I E S S E R V I C E MANUAL
the bottom. Remove rear bearing cone and roller
assembly from the shaft by striking the end of the
shaft lightly against a wooden block,
j. Remove the set screw in sliding gear shift fork.
Remove shift rod.
See the following paragraphs for disassembly of
the front and rear bearing caps.
K-4. Front Bearing Cap Disassembly
• Refer to Fig. K-1, K-2.
The front bearing cap is a separate assembly which
may be removed for service. Should difficulty be
experienced in this section of the transfer case,
follow the sequence below for removal and disassembly.
a. Remove the output shaft yoke as outlined in
Par. K-3. Remove the poppet balls and move the
front wheel drive shift rod forward as outlined in
Par. K-3f.
b. Remove yoke oil seal with Tool W-251, as
shown in Fig. K-7. Remove shift rod oil seals with
Tool W-176, as shown in Fig. K-8.
c. Remove the front bearing cap assembly as
outlined in Par. K-3g.
FIG. K-9—SHIFT
ROD OIL SEAL
K
INSTALLER
1— Driver
2— Thimble
3 — Oil Seal
d. Remove the set screw from shifting fork and
shifting rod. The clutch gear and shifting fork can
be removed together.
e. Remove output clutch shaft assembly by carefully pressing it thru the bearing.
f. Remove bearing retainer snap ring and the
bearing.
K-5. Rear Cap Disassembly
• Refer to Fig. K-1, K-2.
The rear bearing cap is partially disassembled
during the dismantling of the transfer case. The
cap is, however, a separate assembly which may be
removed for service. Follow the sequence below
for removal and disassembly,
a. Remove the output shaft rear end yoke or
companion flange as outlined in Par. K-3 a. Separate
271
K
TRANSFER CASE
FIG. K-12—OUTPUT SHAFT O I L SEAL
DRIVER
1— Driver Tool W-143
2 — Seal
the brake drum and companion flange by removing bolts, lockwashers, and nuts.
b. Remove the oil seal with Tool W-251, as shown
in Fig. K-7.
c. Remove speedometer driven gear assembly.
d. Remove the cap screws attaching the cap and
brake backing plate to the case. Take precautions
not to lose or damage bearing adjusting shims
placed between the cap and the transfer case
housing.
e. Separate the rear cap and brake backing plate
assembly. See Section P for brake service procedures.
f. Remove speedometer driving gear.
K-6. Transfer Case Reassembly
• Refer to Fig. K-1, K-2.
Reassembly of the transfer case is reversal of the
foregoing procedure of disassembly. The output
shaft snap ring may best be installed with Tool
W-131, output shaft snap ring installing thimble
and driver, shown in Fig. K - l l . Use a piece of tubing for installing the bearing cone and roller assemblies on the output shaft to prevent damage
to the assemblies.
Early production transfer cases were equipped with
a lVs" [2,86 cm.] diameter intermediate shaft
and caged needle bearings. When installing the
intermediate gear in early production transfer cases,
insert the bearings in the gear, support the front
thrust washer with Pilot Pin Tool W-192, Fig. K-10,
position the gears and rear thrust washer, and
insert the shaft from the rear of the case.
Late production transfer cases were equipped with
a 1 Vi" [3,18 cm.] diameter intermediate shaft,
and bearings consisting of individual rollers and
spacers. A dummy shaft is required to install the
intermediate shaft. The dummy shaft should be
slightly smaller in diameter than the intermediate
shaft and a little shorter than the width of the
intermediate gear. To install the intermediate gear,
first load the bearing rollers and spacers in the
gear using the dummy shaft. Then supporting the
front thrust washer with the fingers, position the
gears and rear thrust washer and insert the shaft
from the rear of the case, driving out the dummy
shaft.
Should it be necessary to replace the speedometer
driven pinion bushing installation may be best
made with bushing installer Tool W-133, shown
in Fig. K-13. When the rear bearing cap assembly
is installed, check the end movement of the mainshaft which determines the adjustment of the
tapered roller bearings. For correct bearing adjust-
|
F I G . K-11—OUTPUT S H A F T SNAP
RING INSTALLER
1— Snap Ring
2 — Snap Ring Installer Tool W-131
272
FIG. K-13—SPEEDOMETER PINION
BUSHING DRIVER
1—Tool W-133
11S4S
K
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
ment, the shaft should have .004" to .008" [0,102
a 0,203 mm.] end play. Adjustment is made by
selective shim installation between the cap and the
case. Shims .003", .010" and .031" [0,076, 0,254,
0,787 mm.] in thickness are available for this adjustment. Do not install the rear cap oil seal until
the bearings are correctly adjusted. Both the front
and rear oil seals may be installed with oil seal
driver Tool W-143, shown in Fig. K-12.
When installing the end yokes on the output shafts,
inspect for the presence of felt seals in each oil
seal guard. (The oil seal guard is a part of each
yoke assembly.) Felt seals should be installed in
the oil seal guards if they are not present. When
installing the shift rail oil seals in the front bearing cap, it is necessary to protect the seals against
damage when passing over the shift rail notches.
Protect them with the thimble, and install them
with the driver, Tool W-130, shown in Fig. K-9.
K-7. Transfer Case Installation
The installation of the assembly in the vehicle is
the reverse of the removal operation covered in
Par. K-2.
If the transmission was removed from the vehicle,
lubricate the pilot bearing and also lubricate the
transmission and transfer case as outlined in the
"Lubrication Section". Be sure that the clutch
pedal has %" [19,05 mm.] free travel as outlined
in the "Clutch Section".
K-8. Transfer Case Linkage Adjustment
Adjust the link to provide h " [12,7 mm.] clearance between the floor pan and the shift lever
bend when operating in four wheel drive low
position. Refer to Fig. K-4.
x
K-3. T R E N S F E R C E S E S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS
SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE REMEDY
Slips Out of Gear (High-Low)
Shifting Lock Spring Weak
Bearing Broken or Worn
Shifting Fork Bent
Replace Spring
Replace
Replace
Slips Out of Front Wheel Drive
Shifting Lock Spring Weak.
Bearing Worn or Broken
End Play in Shaft. .
Shifting Fork Bent..
.
.....
Replace
Replace
Adjust
Replace
Hard Shifting
Lack of Lubricant
Shift Lever Stuck on Shaft
Shifting Lock Ball Scored
Shifting Fork Bent
Low Tire Pressure
Drain and Refill
Remove, Clean and Lubricate
Replace Ball
Replace Fork
Inflate
Grease Leak at Front or Rear Drive
Grease Leak at Covers.
Grease Leak between Transmission and Transfer Cases
Grease Leak at Output Shaft
Install New Gaskets
Install New Gaskets
Install New Oil Seal
K-10. TRANSFER C E S E SPECIFICATIONS
Transfer Case:
A l l Models
Spicer
18
On Floor
Gear Ratio:
1.00 to 1
2.46 to 1
273
L
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
PROPELLER SHAFTS AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL
Needle Bearing and Trunnion. . .
Snap Ring Type Assembly
Snap Ring Type Disassembly. .
U-Bolt Type Assembly
U-Bolt Type Disassembly
L-l
L-2
L-4
L-3
L-6
.L-5
P R O P E L L E R SHAFTS AND UNIVERSAL
JOINTS S P E C I F I C A T I O N S
L-7
L-1. G E N E R A L
The drive of 'Jeep* 4-wheel-drive Universal models
from the transfer case to the front and rear axles is
through two tubular propeller shafts, each shaft
having two cardan cross universal joints. The drive
of 'Jeep' 2-wheel-drive models from the transmission to the rear axle is through a tubular propeller shaft having two cardan cross universal
joints.
Propeller shafts and universal joints should be
checked for foreign matter around the shafts,
dented or bent shafts, and loose attaching bolts.
L-2.
Needle Bearing a n d T r u n n i o n
Universal Joint
Each shaft is equipped with a splined slip joint at
one end to allow for variations in length caused by
vehicle spring action. Some slip joints are marked
with arrows at the spline and sleeve yoke, Fig.
L-3. When installing, align the arrows in the
same plane. I f unmarked with arrows, align the
yokes at the front and rear of the shaft in the same
parallel plane. This is necessary to avoid vibration.
All the universal joints used are similar in construction except that some are of the "U"-bolt type and
10315
FIG. L-2—ARROW
10603
F I G . L - l — U N I V E R S A L JOINTS
1—Snap Ring
2—Journal
3—Bearing
4— Dust Cap
5—Washer
6— Rear Tube
7—Yoke E n d
8— Yoke E n d
9—Front Tube
10—" U " Bolt
11—Retainer
12—Gasket
13— " U " Bolt Nut
14—Sleeve
15—Front Yoke E n d
1 6 — Flange Yoke
MARKINGS
others of the "Snap Ring'* type. This difference
is in the attachment of the joints only.
These universal joints have needle bearings and
are so designed that correct assembly is a very simple matter. No hand fitting or special tools are
required.
L-3. S n a p R i n g T y p e Disassembly
This type joint is illustrated in Fig. L - l . To re-
FIG. L-3—PROPELLER SHAFT
AND UNIVERSAL JOINT
1— U-Bolt Nut
2 — U-Bolt Washer
3—U-Bolt
4— Universal Joint Journal
5 — Lubrication Fitting
6— Snap Ring
7— Universal Joint Sleeve Yoke
8— Rubber Washer
9— Dust Cap
10—Propeller Shaft Tube
11440
275
L
P R O P E L L E R SHAFTS A N D U N I V E R S A L JOINTS
move the snap rings, pinch the ends together with
a pair of pliers. I f the rings do not readily snap
out of the groove, tap the end of the bearing lightly
which will relieve pressure against the rings.
After removing the snap rings, press on the end of
one bearing until the opposite bearing is pushed
from the yoke arm. Turn the joint over and press
the first bearing back out of that arm by pressing
on the exposed end of the journal shaft. Use a soft
ground drift with a flat face about
[0,8 mm.]
smaller in diameter than the hole in the yoke arm
and drive it out, otherwise there is danger of damaging the bearing.
Repeat this operation for the other two bearings,
then lift out journal assembly by sliding it to one
side.
L - 4 . Snap Ring T y p e Assembly
Wash all parts in cleaning solvent and inspect the
parte after cleaning. Replace any parts that indicate
extensive wear. I t is advisable to install new gaskets
on the journal assembly regardless of the condition
of the old gaskets. Make certain that the grease
channel in each journal trunnion is open.
Pack the bearing cones one-third full of lubricant
and install the rollers.
Draw the bearings into the end yoke arm and seat
them firmly against the bearing shoulders. Hold
the bearings in a vertical position to prevent the
needles from dropping out until the joint is assembled. I f the joint binds when assembled, tap
the arms lightly to relieve any pressure on the bearings at the end of the journal.
L - 5 . U - B o l t Type Disassembly
Removal of the attaching "U"-bolt releases one set
of bearing races. Slide the propeller shaft into the
yoke flange to remove them using care not to lose
the rollers.
After the removal of the one set of bearing races,
release the other set by removing the snap rings
in the sleeve yoke by pinching the ends together
with a pair of pliers. Should the rings fail to snap
readily from the groove, tap the end of the bearing
lightly, which will relieve the pressure against them.
Press on the end of one bearing, until the opposite
bearing is pushed out of the yoke arm. Turn the
universal joint over and press the first bearing out
by pressing on the exposed end of the journal assembly. Use a soft ground drift with a flat face
about \{i [0,8 mm.] smaller in diameter than the
hole in the yoke arm and drive out the bearing. Lift
the journal out by sliding to one side. Clean all
parts and check for wear.
L-6. U-Bolt Type Assembly
Wash all parts in cleaning solvent and inspect the
parts after cleaning. Replace any parts that indicate
extensive wear. I t is advisable to install new gaskets
on the journal assembly regardless of the condition
of the old gaskets. Make certain that the grease
channel in each journal trunnion is open.
Pack the bearing cones one-third full of lubricant
and install the rollers.
Draw the bearings into the end yoke arm and seat
them firmly against the bearing shoulders. Hold the
bearings in a vertical position to prevent the
needles from dropping out until the joint is assembled. I f the joint binds when assembled, tap
the arms lightly to relieve any pressure on the
bearings at the end of the journal. Tighten the
U-bolts equally. U-bolt torque wrench reading is
15 to 20 lb-ft. [2,07 a 2,76 kg-m.].
When installing the assembly in the vehicle be sure
that the arrows on the propeller shaft and yoke
sleeve are in alignment as shown in Fig. L - 2 , or
that the unmarked joints are aligned with the
yokes in the same parallel plane.
SPECIFICATIONS
L-7. PROPELLER SHAFTS AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS
P R O P E L L E R SHAFTS:
SPICER
Make
Front
Dimensions:
Length
O.D.
F 4 Engine Vehicles:
C J - 5 , C J - 5 A — 3 Speed. . . . . . .
4 Speed
C J - 6 , C J - 6 A — 3 Speed
4 Speed
CJ-3B
DJ-5
DJ-6.
V-6 Engine Vehicles:
C J - 5 , C J - 5 A — 3 Speed.
C J - 6 , C J - 6 A — 3 Speed.
C J - 5 — 4 Speed
U N I V E R S A L JOINTS:
Make
Type
Bearing
276
Rear
1M"
1M*
\W
1M*
[3,175
[3,175
[3,175
[3,175
[3,175
cm.]
cm.]
cm.]
cm.]
cm.]
\W
\W
[3,175 cm.]
[3,175 cm.]
[3,175 cm.]
22^"
28H"
22M*
mW
33He"
[57,78
[72,39
[57,78
[72,39
[85,57
cm.]
cm.]
cm.]
cm.]
cm.]
21W
[55,25 cm.]
21%" [55,25 cm.]
2&*<if [68,10 cm.]
O.D.
Length
IK" [4,45 cm.]
1 M [4,45 cm.]
\ % " [4,45 cm.]
\ % " [4, 45cm.]
IW
[4,45 cm.]
1M* [4,45 cm.]
3* [7,62 cm.]
182£" [45,95 cm.]
WW [34,131 cm.]
3SJ4* [97,79 cm.]
3 3 % " [84,69 cm.]
19546* [50,64 cm.]
2 4 ^ " [61,60 cm.]
44M* [112,40 cm.]
2" [5,08 cm.]
2" [5,08 cm.]
19%? [50,64 cm.]
39* [99,06 cm.]
U%" [37,47 cm.l
#
l%"
[4,45 cm.]
Spicer
Cardan Cross
Antifriction
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
FRONT
m
fiXLE
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL.
M-l
4-WHEEL DRIVE FRONT A X L E .
Maintenance Requirements
M-2
M-3
FRONT A X L E REMOVAL
.M-4
A X L E SHAFT REMOVAL
M-5
REMOVING AND OVERHAULING
DIFFERENTIAL
.M-6
A X L E SHAFT UNIVERSAL
JOINT S E R V I C E
M-7
STEERING KNUCKLE SERVICE
Replacing Steering Knuckle Oil Seal
M-8
M-10
M-1. G E N E R A L
The front axle for all 'Jeep* Universal models,
which have 4-wheel drive, is described in Par. M-2.
The front axle for all DJ-5, DJ-6 models, which
have 2-wheel drive, is described in Par. M - l 5 .
M-2. 4 - W H E E L - D R I V E F R O N T A X L E
The front axle is a live driving unit with hypoid
type driving gears and spherical steering knuckles
mounted m pivot pins which ride on tapered roller
bearings for ease of steering. The drive is of the full
floating type through axle shafts built integrally
with cardan cross universal joints which revolve in
the steering knuckles. The steering knuckle tie rod
arm is made integrally with the knuckle. The
knuckles are connected by a divided tie rod to a
steering bell crank. A steering connecting rod connects the bell crank to the steering gear arm. The
divided tie rod is adjustable and the toe-in of each
front wheel is adjusted independently. Camber and
SUBJECT
PAR.
REASSEMBLY AND BEARING
PRELOAD
A X L E SHAFT INSTALLATION
M-9
M-ll
F R O N T A X L E I N S T A L L A T I O N . . . . . . . . .M-l2
Turning Angle Adjustment
. .M-14
Steering Tie Rod and Beilcrank
M-l3
2-WHEEL D R I V E FRONT A X L E
M-15
Removal of Solid Front Axle
M-l6
Steering Knuckle Service
M-l7
Steering Knuckle Pin Replacement. . . . . . . M - l 8
S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS
M-19
A X L E SPECIFICATIONS.
M-20
caster of the front wheels is preset. Camber cannot
be altered but caster can be adjusted by installing
caster shims between the axle pad and the springs.
For information on the steering geometry see
"Steering Section."
Service procedures given in this section include
the removal, installation, disassembly and assembly
of the Model 27AF front axle assembly, the axle
shafts, steering knuckles, and universal joints.
Note: All service replacement axle assemblies are
shipped from the factory without lubricant in the
differential. Lubricant must be added; use grade
and quantity as specified in the lubrication chart
(Section B ) .
M-3. Maintenance Requirements
A spring-loaded breather is located on the top of
the differential housing. Each time the differential
lubricant is checked, the breather should be
M
FRONT AXLE
FIG. M-2—FRONT A X L E
1— Nut
2— Lock Washer
3 — Bearing Lock Washer
4— Wheel Bearing Cup
5— Cone and Rollers
6—Oil Seal
7— Spindle
8— Spindle Bushing
9— Filler Plug
10—Right Knuckle and A r m
1 1 — Shims
12—Pivot Pin
13— Lock Washer
14— Cap Screw
15— Nut
16— Washer
1 7 — Universal Joint Yoke
18— Oil Seal
19— Oil Slinger
20— Cone and Rollers
21— Bearing C u p
22—Right Axle Shaft with Universal Joint
23— Knuckle Oil Seal Retainer
2 4 — Housing Breather
25— Front Axle Housing
26— Axle Shaft with Universal Joint
27—Oil Seal
28—Axle Shaft Guide
2 9 — Shim Pack
30— Bearing Cup
31— Cone and Rollers
32—Ring Gear and Pinion
33— Thrust Washer
3 4 — Thrust Washer
3 5 — Differential Gears
36— Housing Cover Gasket
37— Housing Cover
38— Fill Plug
39— Screw and Lock Washer
40— Bearing Cup
41— Cone and Rollers
42— Shims
43— Lock Pin
44— Pinion Shaft
45— Differential Case
47— Bolts
48— Nut
49— Oil Seal and Backing Ring
50— Thrust Washer
51— Snap Ring
52— Stop Bolt
53— Nut
54— Bearing Cup
55— Cone and Rollers
56— Gasket
checked, making sure it is clean and open.
The front wheel bearings should be checked every
12,000 miles. Refer to Section Q. Front wheel toein is adjustable by lengthening or shortening the
tie rod. However, standard caster and camber of
the front wheels are built into the axle. Wheel
caster can be adjusted by placing tapered shim
plates or wedges between the springs and spring
seats welded to the axle housing. Steering geometry
and front wheel adjustments are discussed in Section O.
The axle housing should be checked periodically
for weld cracks and/or other damage that may
cause misalignment of the front wheels or loss
of lubricant. The spring clips (U-bolts) should be
inspected and torqued every 12,000 miles. Torque
(spring clip) nuts 45 to 50 lb-ft. [6,2 a 6,9 kg-m.].
M-4. F R O N T A X L E R E M O V A L
a. Raise front end of vehicle arid safely support
the frame by placing stands under the frame at
the rear of the front spring rear hangers.
b. Place jack under front axle housing and relieve
axle weight from the springs.
c. Disconnect shock absorbers from spring clip
plates.
278
F I G . M-3—HUB C A P P U L L E R
d. Disconnect steering link from tie rod socketjoint assembly.
e. Disconnect hydraulic brake hoses from front
brake lines. Disconnect hoses from frame brackets.
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
m
f. Disconnect propeller shaft from the differential
companion flange.
g. Disconnect both front springs from front spring
hangers.
h. Remove spring clip and spring clip plates securing axle to front springs.
i. Remove front wheels from axle assembly.
j . Lower jack slightly and pull axle forward from
under vehicle.
M-5. F R O N T A X L E S H A F T
REMOVAL
Refer to Fig. M-2.
The following procedure applies to either right or
left front axle shaft.
Note: Axle shafts can be removed without removing the axle housing from the vehicle. Use the following procedure. First raise and support front end
of vehicle, and remove front wheels.
a. Remove drive flange snap ring.
b- Remove the hub cap with a puller as shown in
Fig. M-3.
c. Remove the axle shaft driving flange bolts.
d . Apply the foot brakes and remove the axle
shaft flange with puller W-163 as illustrated in
Fig. M-4.
FIG. M-5—WHEEL BEARING NUT WRENCH
1—Tool W-144
g . Remove the hydraulic brake tube and the
brake backing plate screws.
h . Remove the spindle.
i. Remove the axle shaft and universal joint assembly.
M-6. Removing a n d O v e r h a u l i n g Differential
Adjustment and overhaul of the front axle differential assembly is the same as that of a full floating
type rear axle. Information covering dismantling
and assembling of this type differential is contained
in Section N .
N O T E : All service replacement axle assemblies
are shipped from the factory without lubricant in
the differential. Lubricant must be added to the
differential before the axles are installed in vehicles.
Use the grade and quantity of lubricant specified
in the lubrication section.
After the axle has been installed in the vehicle,
check to be sure the lubricant level in the dfferential is level with the fill plug opening.
M-7. A X L E S H A F T U N I V E R S A L
JOINT SERVICE
FIG. M-4—AXLE SHAFT D R I V E F L A N G E
PULLER
1—Too! W-163
e. Release the locking lip on the lockwasher and
remove the outer nut, lockwasher, adjusting nut
and bearing lockwasher. Use wrench W-144, Fig.
M-5, for removal of the nut.
f- Remove the wheel hub and drum assembly
with the bearings. Be careful not to damage the
oil seal.
Refer to Fig. M-6 and M-7.
After the axle shaft and universal joint assembly
have been removed, the Cardan cross universal
joint can be disassembled and inspected as follows:
a . Remove the snap rings from the bearing cup
assemblies.
b. Press on the end of one bearing cup assembly
until the opposite bearing is pushed from the yoke
arm. Turn the yoke over and press the first bearing back out of that arm by pressing on the exposed
end of the journal shaft. To avoid damaging the
279
M
FRONT AXLE
FIG. M-6—CARDAN
CROSS U N I V E R S A L
JOINT
1—Axle Shaft Yoke Half
2-—Bearing C u p
3—Snap Ring
4—Axle Shaft Yoke Half
5—Roller Bearing
6— Bearing C u p
7— Bearing Cross Journal
10527
FIG. M-7—CARDAN CROSS UNIVERSAL
JOINT
1— Outer Axle Shaft Snap Ring
2—Outer Shaft
3—Bearing Retainer Snap Ring
4— Bearing Rollers
5— Bearing Retainers
6— Universal Joint Journal Assembly
7— Inner Shaft
FIG.
M-8—STEERING
1— Bearing Adjusting Nut
2— Lockwasher
3—Lockwasher
4—Bearing Cone and Rollers
5—Bearing Cup
6— Spindle
7— Bushing
8— Filler Plug
280
bearing, use a soft drift with a flat about
[0,8 mm.] smaller in diameter than the hole in the
yoke arm to drive out the bearing.
c. Repeat the above step for the other two bearings.
Then lift out the bearing cross journal by sliding
it to one side.
d. Wash all parts in cleaning solvent and inspect
the parts after cleaning. Replace any parts that
indicate extensive wear.
e. Pack the bearing cones one-third full of lubricant and install the rollers.
f. Insert the bearings into the end yoke arm and
seat them firmly against the bearing shoulders.
g. Holding the bearings in a vertical position to
prevent the needles from dropping out, reassemble
the joint in the reverse order of the disassembly.
K N U C K L E AND
WHEEL
9—Left Knuckle and A r m
10— Shims
11—Upper Bearing Cap
12— Lockwasher
13—Bolt
14—Oil Seal and Backing Ring
15—Thrust Washer
16— Axle Pilot
BEARINGS
17—Oil Seal
18—Bearing Cup
19—Bearing Cone and Rollers
20—Oil Seal
21— Retainer
22— Bolt
23—Lower Bearing Cap
2 4 — Lock Strap
25— Bolt
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
M
If the joint binds when assembled, tap the yoke
lightly to relieve any pressure on the bearings at
the end of the journal.
M-8- S t e e r i n g K n u c k l e Service
The steering knuckle pins pivot on tapered roller
bearings. Replacement of these bearings requires
removal of the hub and brake drum assembly,
wheel bearings, axle shaft, spindle, steering tie rod,
and steering knuckle. Disassemble the steering
knuckle as follows:
Remove the eight screws which hold the oil seal
retainer in place. Remove the four screws holding
the lower pivot pin bearing cap. Remove the four
screws holding the upper bearing cap in place. Remove the bearing cap. The steering knuckle can
now be removed from the axle. Wash all parts in
cleaning solvent. Replace any damaged or worn
parts. Inspect the bearing and races for scores,
cracks, or chips. Should the bearing cups be
damaged, they may be removed and installed with
Special Driver W-138, as shown in Fig. M-9.
M - 9 . Reassemble a n d B e a r i n g P r e l o a d
Reverse the procedure of Par. M-8 to reassemble
the unit. When reinstalling the steering knuckle,
sufficient shims must be installed under the top
bearing cap to obtain correct preload on the bearing. Shims are available in these thicknesses:
.003" [0,076 mm.]
.010" [0,254 mm.]
005" [0,127 mm.]
.030" [0,762 mm.]
Install one each of the above shims at the top only.
Install the bearing caps, lockwashers, and screws,
and tighten securely.
Check the preload on the bearings by hooking a
spring scale, Tool C-690, in the hole in the knuckle
arm for the tie rod socket. Take the scale reading
when the knuckle has just started its sweep.
The kingpin bearing preload should be 12 to 16 lb.
[5,43 a 7,24 kg.] with the oil seal removed. Remove
or add shims to obtain a preload within these limits.
FIG. M-9—SPINDLE PIN BEARING CUP DRIVER
1—Tool W-138
F I G . M-10—TURNING A N G L E STOP S C R E W
1—Stop Screw
M-10. Replacing Steering K n u c k l e Oil Seal
Remove the old steering knuckle oil seal by removing the eight screws which hold it in place. Earlier
production vehicles are equipped with seals consisting of two oil seal halves. Later production
vehicles are equipped with oil seal assemblies consisting of a split oil seal and backing ring assembly,
an oil seal felt, and two seal retainer plate halves.
Examine the spherical surface of the axle for
scores or scratches which could damage the seal.
Smooth any roughness with emery cloth.
Before installing the oil seal felt, make a diagonal
cut across the top side of the felt so that it may be
slipped over the axle. Install the oil seal assembly
in the sequence given above, making sure the
backing ring (of the oil seal and backing ring assembly) is toward the wheel.
After driving in wet, freezing weather swing the
front wheels from right to left to remove moisture
adhering to the oil seal and the spherical surface of
the axle housing. This will prevent freezing with
resulting damage to the seals. Should the vehicle be
stored for any period of time, coat these surfaces
with light grease to prevent rusting.
M-11. A X L E S H A F T I N S T A L L A T I O N
Refer to Fig. M-2.
Installation of the front right and left axle shaft
is the same and is given in the following paragraphs.
a . Clean all parts of dirt and foreign matter.
b. Enter universal joint and axle shaft assembly
in the axle housing, taking care not to knock out
the inner oil seal. Enter the splined end of the
axle shaft into the differential and push into place.
281
FRONT
AXLE
F I G . M-l 1—FRONT S T E E R I N G
KNUCKLE
(With Spicer Universal Joint)
1— Wheel Hub Cap
2— Driving Flange Cap Screw
3— Axle Shaft Drive Flange Gasket
4— Wheel Bearing Cup
5—Front Wheel Spindle
6—Brake Drum
7— Front Brake Cylinder
8— Brake Backing Plate
9— Pivot Pin Bearing Cap
10— Pivot Pin Bearing Cap Nut
11— Pivot Pin
12— Pivot Bearing Adjusting Shims
13— Pivot Pin Cone and Rollers
14— Steering Knuckle Oil Seal
15— Front Axle Universal Joint
16— Thrust Washer
17— Brake Backing Plate Screw
18— Brake Shoe and Lining
19— Hub Oil Seal
20—Wheel Hub Bolt Nut
21— Wheel Bearing Cone and Rollers
22—Wheel Bearing Washer
23— Wheel Bearing Retaining Nut
24— Wheel Adjusting Nut Lock Washer
25—Wheel Bearing Retaining Nut
26— Snap Ring
c . Install the wheel bearing spindle and bushing.
d. Install brake backing plate.
e. Grease and assemble wheel bearings and oil
seal. Install the wheel hub and drum on the wheel
bearing spindle. Install the wheel bearing washer
and adjusting nut. Tighten nut with Wrench W-144
as shown in Fig. M-5, until there is a slight drag on
the bearings when the hub is turned. Then back
off approximately one-sixth of a turn. Install lock
washer and nut, tightening nut into place, and then
bend lip of lock washer over on the locknut.
f. Install driveflangeand gasket on hub and attach
with six cap screws and lock washers. Install snap
ring on outer end of axle shaft.
g . Install hub cap.
h. Install the wheel, lug nuts, and wheel disc.
i. I f tube was installed with axle assembly on
vehicle, check front wheel alignment (Section O),
bleed brakes (Section P ) , and lubricate front axle
universal joints (Section B ) .
M-12. F R O N T A X L E I N S T A L L A T I O N
To install the front axle, reverse the procedures
described in Par. M-4 and then perform the following operations:
a . Torque spring clip plate (U-bolt) nuts securing
the axle to the front springs, (see Par. M-4).
b. Adjust and bleed the brakes (see Section P ) .
c . Check axle lubricant level and fill as necessary,
(see Section B ) .
d . Check front end wheel alignment (see Section
O).
e. Check wheel turning angle. Refer to Par. M-14.
M-13. S t e e r i n g T i e R o d a n d B e l l C r a n k
These parts of the front axle are covered in Section O.
282
M-14. 4-Wheel Drive T u r n i n g Angle
Adjustment and service information regarding
turning angles is covered in Section O.
M-15. 2 - W H E E L - D R I V E F R O N T A X L E
The front axle is of the reverse Elliot type. It is a
steel forging, heat treated for strength and machined to close limits. The steering knuckles are
mounted on pins which pass through openings
at each end of the " I " beam and are locked securely
in position with tapered pins and nuts. The knuckles
ride on ball thrust bearings for ease of steering.
See Figs. M-12, M-13.
The knuckles are connected by a tie rod which is
mounted on ball and socket connections. The tie
rod is adjustable to secure correct toe-in of the
front wheels. A steering connecting rod connects
the left knuckle arm with the steering gear arm.
Standard caster and camber of the front wheels
are built into the front axle. Wheel camber cannot
be changed however, caster can be adjusted by
placing tapered shims or wedges between the
springs and spring seats. For complete information
regarding the steering geometry refer to the
Section O.
M-16.
Removal of Solid Front Axle
Note: The procedure for removing the solid front
axle varies slightly, depending on whether the
springs are slung under or over the axle. These
variations are noted in the following procedure.
a. - Raise the front end of the vehicle and safely
support the frame behind the springs.
b. Remove the wheels by removing the wheel
discs and lug nuts.
c . Disconnect the steering connecting rod at the
ball and socket connection on the steering knuckle.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
M
F I G . M-12—FRONT A X L E — E A R L Y M O D E L DJ-5, DJ-6
1— Outer Bearing Cone and Rollers
2—Outer Bearing Race
3—Inner Bearing Cone and Rollers
4— Inner Bearing Race
5—-Wheel Brake Cylinder
6— Bleeder Screw
7— Upper Expansion Plug
8— Steering Knuckle Pin
9— Steering Knuckle Bushing
10— Lubrication Fitting Opening
11— Front Axle I-Beam
12— Steering Knuckle Pin Bearing
d. Disconnect the shock absorbers at the axle
mounting pads.
e. Disconnect the brake hydraulic hoses at the
connections between front brake lines and flexible
hoses.
f. Support the axle assembly on a jack, ready
for removal.
1 3 — Brake Backing Plate
14—Brake Drum
15—Brake Shoe
16— Wheel Hub Bolt
17— Spindle
18— Front Wheel Hub
1 9 — Spindle Nut
g. On vehicles with the springs slung over the axle,
remove the nuts from the spring to axle U-bolt clips,
remove the spring clip plates, and slide the axle assembly from underneath the vehicle.
On vehicles with the springs slung under the axle,
remove the nuts from the spring clips and remove
the spring clip plates. Then disconnect the spring
F I G . M-13—FRONT A X L E ,
L A T E M O D E L DJ-5, DJ-6
1— Steering Knuckle
2—Steering Knuckle Bushing
3— Key
4—Steering Arm
5—Lock Spring
6— Oil Seal Retainer
7—Oil Seal
8—Tapered Pin
9— Dust Cover
10— Nut
11—Cotter Pin
12— Tie Rod
13—Axle Tube
14— Plug
15—Steering Knuckle Pin
16— Shim
17—Thrust Bearing
18— Bolt
19— Nut
20— Nut
2 1 — Cotter Pin
11660
283
M
FRONT A X L E
from the spring shackles by removing the lower
spring shackle bolts. Lower the front springs to the
floor and slide the axle assembly from underneath
the vehicle.
M-17. S T E E R I N G K N U C K L E S E R V I C E
The following procedures are given for steering
knuckle service when the axle is installed on the
vehicle. With the axle removed, eliminate the appropriate steps.
M-18. Steering K n u c k l e Pin Replacement
Refer to Figs. M-12, M-13.
The only parts of the front axle, subjected to weir
which may require replacement are the steering
knuckle pins and bushings. To accomplish this replacement follow the procedure outlined below.
a. Jack up the front of the vehicle to free the
wheels. Install axle stands under the front axle for
safety.
b. Remove the hub cap and dust cap.
c. Remove the wheel retaining cotter pin, nut,
and washer.
d. Remove the wheel with hub, bearings, and oil
retainer.
e. Disconnect the hydraulic brake tube.
f. Remove the brake backing plate.
284
g. Remove the tapered steering knuckle pin lock.
h. Remove the upper steering knuckle expansion
plug on early models, or the lock spring on late
models.
i. Drive the Steering Kunckle Pin and lower expansion plug out through the bottom. When the
spindle is disassembled, do not lose the spacing
shim between the upper face of the axle and the
spindle.
j . Remove the thrust bearing and bushings,
k. Assemble in reverse order. Be sure the oil holes
in the bushings are aligned with the lubrication
fittings. Ream the bushings for running clearance
with the steering knuckle pin. Check the thrust
bearing to be sure it is not worn or damaged. When
installing the steering knuckle pin, align the notch
for the tapered retaining pin with the pin hole.
When assembling the knuckle, guard against lost
motion between the axle and inner face of the
knuckle. Adjustment is made by selective fitting
of the spacing shim between the upper face of the
axle and the inner face of the knuckle. Shims are
available in the following thicknesses:
.011" [0,279 mm.]
.035* [0,889 mm.]
.033* [0,838 mm.]
Do not overlook bleeding the brakes after the axle
end has been reassembled.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
M
M-19. S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS
SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE REMEDY
Hard Steering
Lack of Lubrication
Tires Soft.
Tight Steering.
.
Lubricate
Inflate
Adjust. See "Steering" Section
L o w Speed S h i m m y or W h e e l F i g h t
Spring Clips and Shackles Loose
Front Axle Shifted
Insufficient Toe-In
Improper Caster
Steering System Loose or Worn
Twisted Axle
Readjust or Replace
Broken Spring Center Bolt
Adjust
Reset
Adjust or Overhaul Steering Gear, Front Axle or
Steering Parts
Straighten or Adjust
H i g h S p e e d S h i m m y or W h e e l F i g h t
Check Conditions Under "Low Speed Shimmy"
Tire Pressures Low or not Equal
Wheel Out of Balance
Wheel Runout
Radial Runout of Tires
Wheel Camber
Front Springs Settled or Broken
Bent Steering Knuckle A r m . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Shock Absorbers not Effective
Steering Gear Loose on Frame
Front Springs too Flexible
Inflate
Balance
Straighten
Mount Properly
Same on Both Wheels
Repair or Replace
Straighten or Replace
Replace or Repair
Tighten
Over Lubricated
Tramp
Wheels Unbalanced
Check and Balance
Wandering
Improper Toe-in
Broken Front Spring Main Leaf
Axle Shifted
Loose Spring Shackles or Clips
Improper Caster
Tire Pressure Uneven
Tightness in Steering System
Loose Wheel Bearings
Front Spring Settled or Broken
Axle Noisy o n Pull
Pinion and Ring Gear Adjusted too Tight
Pinion Bearings Rough.
Adjust—Check for Bent Steering Knuckle Arm
Replace
Spring Center Bolt Broken
Adjust or Replace
Reset
Inflate
Adjust
Adjust
Repair or Replace
Readjust
Replace
Axle Noisy o n C o a s t
Excessive Back Lash at Ring and Pinion Gears.
E n d Play in Pinion Shaft. . .
Rough Bearing.
Readjust
Readjust
Replace
Axle Noisy o n C o a s t a n d P u l l
Ring and Pinion Adjusted too Tight
Pinion Set too Deep in Ring Gear
Pinion Bearing Loose or Worn
Readjust
Readjust
Readjust or Replace
Back Lash
Axle Shaft Universal Joint Worn
Axle Shaft Improperly Adjusted
Worn Differential Pinion Washers
Worn Propeller Shaft Universal Joints.
Replace
Readjust
Replace
Repair
Emergency
Where difficulty is experienced with front axle differential making the vehicle inoperative,
remove axle driving flanges. This will allow bringing vehicle in under its own power. Be sure
the transfer case shift lever is in the neutral (disengaged) position.
285
FRONT
AXLE
M-20. FRONT A X L E SPECIFICATIONS
MODEL:
Front Axle:
Make.
Model
Capacity
Description
Universal Joints:
Make
Type.
K i n g Pin Bearing Preload
Differential:
Drive Pinion Offset:
Number of Differential Pinions
Gear Ratio:
F 4 Engine
Standard
Optional
V-6 Engine
Standard
Optional
Ring Gear Pitch Diameter
Pinion Adjustment
Pinion Bearing Adjustment
286
Four Wheel Drive Models
Dana
27AF
2000 lb. [907 kg.]
Full-floating
Hypoid Gears
Spicer
Cardan Cross
12 to 16 lb. [5,44 a 7,25 kg.]
1.38* [35,05 mm.]
2
4.27:1
5.38:1
3.73:1
4.88:1
7.12' [19,05 cm.]
Shim
Shim
Two Wheel Drive Models
Clark
130097
2000 lb. [907 kg.]
Reverse Elliot
N
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
REAR A X L E
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL
N-l
R E A R A X L E SHAFT AND
BEARING REMOVAL
Semi-Float-Tapered Axle Shaft
Semi-Float-Flanged Axle Shaft
Semi-Float-Flanged Axle Shaft
Bearing Installation.
21*
POWR-LOK D I F F E R E N T I A L
Chatter
Dissasembly and Reassembly.
Torque Test
Trouble Symptoms
N-8
REAR A X L E ASSEMBLY
INSTALLATION
UNIT BEARING ASSEMBLY
N-4
Servicing Unit Bearing.
N-5
Lubricating Unit B e a r i n g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N-6
Unit Bearing Removal
. N-7
REAR A X L E ASSEMBLY
N-9
Cleaning and Inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N - 1 5
Differential Bearing Preload and Ring
Gear Backlash Adjustment. . . . . . . . . . . .N-l9
Differential Case Disassembly
N-l2
Differential Case Reassembly
N-l7
Differential Side Gear Adjustment. . . . . . .N-18
Inspection and Servicing
N-10
Pinion Bearing Cup Removal
.N-l4
Pinion Installation and Adjustments. . . . .N-l6
Pinion and Differential Bearing
Removal
N-13
Rear Axle Assembly Removal
N-ll
N-l. GENERAL
A semifloating rear axle assembly is standard on
all Jeep Universal Series vehicles. Two models of
similar design rear axles are used. See Specifications Chart, Par. N-38, for description and ratio.
The axle model number is cast into the housing as
N-20
.N-26
.N-23
.N-22
N-21
N-33
T R A C - L O K D I F F E R E N T I A L . . . . . . . . . . . .N-24
Lubrication
N-25
Trouble Symptoms
N-26
Unit Inoperative
N-2 7
Disassembly
N-28, N-29
Inspection
.N-30
Reassembly
.N-31
Trac-Lok Unit Replacement
.N-32
Backlash
N-35
T R O U B L E SHOOTING
DIFFERENTIAL
Rear Wheel Noise
N-34
.N-36
S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS
.N-37
REAR A X L E SPECIFICATIONS. .
N-38
Powr-Lok or Trac-Lok differential can be identified by a separate metal tag attached to the housing cover, as shown in Fig. N-2. Information for
wheel bearing adjustment is given in Section Q.
FIG. N-2—RATIO, POWR-LOK AND
TRAC-LOK DIFFERENTIAL IDENTIFICATION
1—Ratio T a g
FIG. N-l—AXLE MODEL
IDENTIFICATION
illustrated in Fig. N-l. A metal tag under two adjacent differential housing cover cap screws is
stamped to identify the number of teeth in the
drive gear and pinion and notes the axle ratio. A
2—Powr-Lok or Trac-Lok T a g
N-2. REAR AXLE SHAFT REMOVAL AND
INSTALLATION (Semi-Float Tapered Shaft)
Procedure for removing the rear axle shafts is as
follows:
a. Jack up the wheel and remove the hub cap.
b. Remove wheel.
287
FIG. N-3—SEMIFLOATING R E A R A X L E — T A P E R E D SHAFT
1— Differential Bearing Cup
2 — Differential Bearing Cone and Rollers
3 — Shims
4— Differential Case
5— Ring Gear and Pinion
6— Pinion Inner Bearing Cone and Rollers
7— Pinion Inner Bearing Cup
8— Pinion Shims
9— Axle Housing
10— Pinion Outer Bearing Cup
11— Pinion Outer Bearing Cone and Rollers
12— Oil Slinger
13— Gasket
14— Pinion Oil Seal
15— Dust Shield
16— Yoke
17— Flat Washer
18— Pinion Nut
19— Wheel Bearing Shims
20— Bearing Cup
21— Bearing Cone and Rollers
22— Oil Seal
c. Remove the axle shaft cotter pin, castle nut,
and flat washer.
d. Back off on brake adjustment eccentric.
23— Thrust Washer
24— Differential Pinion Gears
2 5 — Thrust Washer
26— Axle Shaft
27— Thrust Block
2 8 — Gasket
29——Housing Cover
30——Screw and Lock Washer
3 1 — Filler Plug
3 2 — Differential Shaft
3 3 — Lock P i n
34— Ring Gear Screw
e. Use Wheel Hub Puller C-319 to remove the
wheel hub as shown in Fig. N-4.
f. Remove the screws attaching the brake dust
protector, grease and bearing retainers, brake assembly, and shim to the housing.
g. Remove the hydraulic line from the brake assembly.
h. Remove the dust shield and oil seal.
i. Using Tool C-637 and Adapter Tool SP-342,
remove the axle shaft bearing cone, roller, and cup
as shown in Fig. N-5.
j. Should an axle shaft be broken, the inner end
can usually be drawn out of the housing with a
wire loop after the outer oil seal is removed. However, if the broken end is less than 8" [20,3 cm.]
long it will usually be necessary to remove the
differential assembly.
To remove the bearing from an axle shaft, use
Combination Bearing Puller W-104-B shown in
Fig. N-6.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Note: Place the hub and drum on the axle shaft
taper and then insert the axle shaft key in the
keyway. Never install the key in the keyway before
placing the hub and drum assembly on the axle
shaft Further, be sure that the axle shaft nut is
torqued to a minimum of 150 lb-ft. [21 kg-m.j.
FIG. N-4—WHEEL HUB PULLER
288
N
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
11465
FIG.
N-S—REMOVING T A P E R E D
1—Cone and Roller
2—Axle
AXLE
®
(30)
N-6—REMOVING A X L E SHAFT
TAPERED SHAFT
BEARING
—
SHAFT
3—Tool C-637
Check the shaft oil seal before installing the rear
axle. If replacement is necessary, use Axle Shaft
Oil Seal Driver W-186, Fig. N-l7.
Before installing the axle shaft nut cotter pin, adjust the wheel bearings as outlined in Section Q.
@
FIG.
N-3. Rear Axle Shaft Removal
(Sercii-Float-Flanged Shaft)
a. Jack up vehicle and remove wheels.
b. Remove brake drum.
c. Remove axle shaft flange cup plug by piercing
the center with a sharp tool and prying it out.
d. Using access hole in axle shaft flange remove
(29)
FIG.
N-7—SEMI-FLOAT
1— Differential Bearing Cup
2— Differential Bearing
3 — Shims
4— Differential
5— Ring Gear and Pinion
6—-Pinion Inner Bearing
7— Pinion Inner Bearing Cup
8— Pinion Shims
9— Axle Housing
10— Breather
11— Pinion Outer Bearing Cup
12—Pinion Outer Bearing
REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY — FLANGED
13— Oil Slinger
14— Pinion Oil Seal
15—Dust Shield
16— Yoke
17— Flat Washer
18— Pinion Nut
19— Axle Housing Oil Seal
20— Axle Shaft Retainer Ring
21— Axle Shaft Bearing
22— Axle Shaft Oil Seal
23— Axle Shaft Retainer Plate
24— Axle Shaft Cup Plug
SHAFT
2 5 — Axle Shaft
26— Thrust Washer
27— Differential Pinion Gears
28— Thrust Washer
29— Gasket
3 0 — Housing Cover
3 1 — Screw and Lockwasher
3 2 — Filler Plug
3 3 — Lock Pin
34— Differential Shaft
3 5 — Ring Gear Screw
289
N
REAR
AXLE
ing axle shaft and at the same time functions as a
static seal to prevent lubricant from escaping between the housing and the seal outside diameter.
It's important to note that the seal serves also as
a "spacer" or "filler" in the clamp-up of the bearing
in the axle housing.
Note: All Unit Bearings are manufactured with
built-in adjustment for axle shaft end play. No
adjustment shims are necessary when installing a
flange type axle shaft.
14153
FIG. N-8—REMOVING
FLANGED AXLE
SHAFT
1—Flange Adapter Tool W-343
2— Tool C-637
3 — Axle Flange
nuts attaching backing plate and retainer to axle
tube flange.
e. Attach axle shaft adapter tool W-343 and slide
hammer handle C-637 to axle shaft flange and remove axle shaft, as shown in Fig. N-8.
Caution: Should a bearing disintegrate on the
axle shaft because of inadequate lubrication, the
axle shaft and housing assembly must be carefully
inspected for possible damage before new parts are
installed.
If the bearing cone (inner race) is seized (cold
welded) onto the axle shaft due to excessive overheating, the axle shaft must be discarded and a new
axle shaft and bearing assembly installed.
Note: Make certain the bearing cup has been
removed from the axle housing.
f. Remove axle shaft oil seal from axle housing
tube using tool C-637.
g. Wipe axle housing tube seal bore clean and install a new oil seal using driver tool W-186, as
shown in Fig. N-l7.
N-4. UNIT BEARING
Basically, there are five parts to a Unit Bearing
assembly: the cup, or outer race, the cup ring,
the cone, or inner race, the tapered rollers which
roll freely between the cup and cone, and the cage
which serves as a retainer to maintain the proper
spacing between the tapered rollers grouped around
the cone.
When the bearing is manufactured, the cup and
rib ring are bonded together with an adhesive to
facilitate bearing handling and installation. Since
the cup and rib ring are clamped together in the
axle housing, there is no need for a permanent
bond. When the bearing is serviced the cup will
usually be separated from the rib ring.
The bearing is held on the shaft by the press fit
of the cone plus the press fit of the retainer ring.
The cup and rib ring are clamped together in the
axle housing through the outboard seal by the retainer plate. The outboard seal wipes on the rotat290
N-5. Servicing Unit Bearing
The Unit Bearing assembly should be serviced each
12,000 miles [ 19,200 km.] with bearing cleaning,
inspection and relubrication. The Unit Bearing requires little attention while in service if the bearings have been properly installed and are adequately lubricated.
• Cleaning and Inspection
a. The Unit Bearing assembly should not be removed from the axle shaft unless the outer seal is
defective, the retainer plate is distorted or damaged,
or the Unit Bearing is defective.
Should it be necessary to remove the Unit Bearing
from the axle shaft for any of these reasons, refer
to Par. N-7 for proper Unit Bearing removal.
b. Clean bearing cup with solvent and inspect cup
for any possible wear, nicks or damage.
c. The bearing assembly can be cleaned in place
on the axle shaft. Use cleaning solvent and a stiff
bristle brush to loosen the old grease. To assure
removal of old grease and any contamination that
might be present, use compressed air. Air should
be directed at the bearing assembly so that it goes
through the bearing from one end of the rollers
to the other. It is important not to "spin dry" the
bearing with compressed air. Spinning the dry bearing may score the raceways and rollers due to lack
of lubricant.
d. Use cleaning solvent to clean out the bearing
and oil seal bore in the housing. Wipe the area
clean making sure it is free from old grease or other
contamination that might be present.
FIG. N-9—LUBRICATING BEARING
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
N-6. Lubricating Unit Bearing
a. After the bearing has been inspected and approved for continued service, it must be relubricated prior to re-installation into the axle housing.
The Unit Bearing assembly can be hand packed
with grease on the axle shaft by the method outlined below. Lithium soap wheel bearing grease
Part No. 998386 should be used to relubricate Unit
Bearing assembly.
b. Push seal away from bearing and fill the area
or cavity between the seal and bearing with the
recommended grease. Refer to Fig. N-9.
c. After the cavity is full of grease, wrap tape
completely around the rib ring and seal to enclose
the cavity as shown in Fig. N-10.
N
e. Remove tape and apply additional grease to
the outside surfaces of the rollers and cage as
shown in Fig. N-l2.
FIG. N-12—APPLYING G R E A S E TO R O L L E R S
ff. Grease should also be applied to the inboard
grease seal in the axle housing and in the cavity
between the inboard grease seal and the bearing.
The bottom one-third of this cavity should be filled
with grease.
g. Install the axle shaft and bearing assembly into
axle housing as described in Par. N-8. This completes the servicing of the axle shaft Unit Bearing.
FIG. N-10—APPLYING T A P E T O BEARING
AND SEAL
d. With the tape in place, push the seal upward
toward the bearing assembly forcing the grease
between the rollers and through the bearing assembly, make certain the bearing assembly is
packed completely full of grease. Refer to Fig.
N-ll.
H-7. Unit Bearing Removal
If it is necessary to remove the Unit Bearing assembly from the axle shaft, the procedure outlined
below should be followed.
Caution: Under no circumstances should axle shaft
retaining rings or bearings be removed using a
torch, because heat fed into the axle shaft bearing
journal weakens this area.
a. Place the axle shaft assembly in a heavy vise.
Drill a Vi inch [6,35 mm.] hole in the outside
diameter of the retainer ring to a depth approximately A the thickness of the retainer ring. D O
N O T drill all the way through the retainer ring
because the drill could damage the axle shaft. After
drilling the retainer ring, use a chisel positioned
across the drilled hole and cut a deep groove into
the retainer ring. This will enlarge bore of retainer
ring or split the ring and permit it to be driven
off of the axle shaft. Refer to Fig. N-13.
b. Using a hacksaw, cut through the oil seal, being
careful not to damage the seal contact surface.
Remove oil seal from axle shaft.
3
FIG. N-ll—FORCING G R E A S E INTO BEARING
Important: Thoroughly lubricate W-343 puller bolts
and bolt contact points before attempting to remove
bearing from axle shaft D O N O T U S E P O W E R
O P E R A T E D I M P A C T T O O L S ON P U L L E R
BOLTS.
291
N
REAR AXLE
shaft seal seat. The outer face of the seal must be
toward the axle flange.
d. Pack the new bearing full of grease prior to
installation, using the proper lubricant.
e. Install the unit bearing on the axle shaft making
certain the cup rib ring is facing the axle flange.
f. Install the new bearing retainer ring on the
axle shaft.
g. Using puller tool W-343, press the new axle
shaft bearing and retainer ring on the axle shaft
simultaneously. Tighten puller bolts alternately
until the bearing and retainer ring are properly
seated against the shaft shoulder.
Refer to Fig. N-15 and N-16.
FIG. N-l3—NOTCHING BEARING
RETAINING RING
c. Attach puller tool W-343 to axle shaft flanged
end using the wheel lug nuts. Position puller bolts
against dimples of holding ring and alternately
tighten until bearing is pressed from shaft, as shown
in Fig. N-14.
14154
FIG. N-15—INSTALLING A X L E SHAFT
BEARING
1—Holding Ring
2— Adapter
3 — Flange Adapter
4— Bolt
Note: Make certain the old bearing cup has been
removed from the axle housing before the axle
shaft and new unit bearing is installed into the
axle housing.
14152
FIG. N-14—REMOVING A X L E SHAFT
BEARING
1— Bolt
2— Flange Adapter
3 — Dimple in Holding Ring
4 Holding Ring
5 —Adapter Plates
N-8. Rear Axle Shaft and Bearing Installation
(Semi-Float-Flanged Shaft)
a. Inspect the axle shaft oil seal journal for
scratches and polish with fine crocus cloth if
necessary.
b. Install retainer plate on the axle shaft
c. Apply grease to the new oil seal cavity between
the seal lips and carefully slide seal, on the axle
292
h. Install axle shaft through the backing plate
using care not to damage the axle housing tube
inner oil seal.
i. Apply a thin coating of lubricant to the outside
diameter of the bearing cup prior to installing in
the bearing bore.
j. Tap end of flanged shaft lightly with a rawhide
mallet to position the axle shaft bearing in the
housing bearing bore.
k. Attach the axle shaft retainer and brake backing plate to the axle tube flange. Secure with nuts
and lockwashers. Torque 25 to 35 lb. ft [3,4-4,8
kg-m.].
I. Install a new cup plug into the axle shaft flange
hole.
m. Install the brake drum, and rear wheel assembly.
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
N
11851 j
J
FIG. N-l8—REMOVING PINION SHAFT OIL S E A L
1—Tool W-251
FIG. N-l6—AXLE SHAFT BEARING
INSTALLED
1—Retainer Ring
2— Unit Bearing
3— Seal
4—Retainer Plate
5—Axle Shaft Flange
N-9. REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY
The following paragraphs (Pars. N-9 through N-19)
describe the removal, disassembly, assembly and
services performed on rear axle assemblies having
conventional differentials. Pars. N-20 through N-32
describe the services to be performed on rear axle
assemblies having Powr-Lok and Trac-Lok differentials.
Note: The full floating front axle differential assembly is similar to the rear axle differential and is
removed, inspected, disassembled, and assembled
in the same manner as the rear axle differential
covered in this section.
N-10. Inspection
Refer to Fig. N-3 and N-7.
Before disassembling the differential, it is advisable
to determine through inspection the cause of the
failure. Inspection procedure is as follows:
a. Drain lubricant and remove housing cover and
gasket.
b. Clean the differential parts thoroughly with solvent.
c. Carefully inspect all parts.
Should it be determined by inspection that the
differential requires overhauling, the axle must first
be removed from the vehicle.
Note: All service replacement axle assemblies are
shipped from the factory without lubricant in the
differential. Lubricant must be added to the differential before the axles are installed in vehicles.
Use the grade and quantity of lubricant specified
in the Lubrication Chart.
After the axle has been installed in the vehicle,
check to be sure the lubricant level in the differential is up to the filler plug opening.
N-l 1. Rear Axle Removal
To remove the rear axle, proceed as follows:
a. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a hoist. Safely
support the frame ahead of the rear springs.
b. Remove the wheels.
c. Disconnect the propeller shaft at the rear yoke.
d. Disconnect the shock absorbers at the axle
mounting.
F I G . N-l 7—OIL S E A L
DRIVER
Note: The pinion shaft oil seal is serviced in the
vehicle when replacement is necessary. Refer to
Fig. N-l8.
e. Disconnect the brake hydraulic hose at the tee
fitting on the axle just below the left frame side
rail. Tape ends of hose to keep out dirt.
f. Disconnect the parking brake cable at the frame
mounting. D J models only.
g. Support the axle housing on a jack.
h. Remove the axle U-bolts.
i. Slide the axle from under the vehicle.
293
N
REAR
AXLE
N-l2. Differential Case Disassembly
Refer to Fig. N-3 and N-7.
a. Remove the axle shafts. Refer to Par. N - l l for
rear axle removal and Par. M-4 for front axle removal.
b. Remove the housing cover and four cap screws
holding the two differential side bearing caps in
position. Make sure there are matching letters or
some type of identification marks on the caps and
housing so that each cap can be reinstalled in the
same position and location from which it is removed.
c. Use Spreader W-129, as shown in Fig. N-l9, to
spread the housing. Install Hold-Down Clamps
W-129-18. if available, to keep the spreader in
position. Clamp on a dial indicator. From the side,
measure the carrier spread. Do not spread the carrier more than .020" [0,508 mm.].
d. Remove the dial indicator.
FIG. N-20—REMOVING LOCK PIN
i. Remove the differential shaft and thrust block.
Note: Thrust block used with semi-float tapered
axle shaft only. Refer to Fig. N-3.
j. Carefully so as not to lose the thrust washers,
remove the differential pinion gears.
k. With Tool C-3281 to hold the shaft as shown
in Fig. N-21, remove the nut. With Puller W-172
remove the yoke as shown in Fig. N-2 2.
I. Using a rawhide hammer, drive on the end of
the pinion shaft to force the pinion out of the
differential housing.
FIG. N-19—DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER
T O O L W-129
SPREADER
1— Spreader W-129
2 — Dial Indicator and Pointer
3 — Dial Indicator Clamp
Note: When removing the axle differential from
the rear axle housing, use Spreader Tool No.
W-129.
e. Carefully pry the differential case loose, using
pry bars at the heads of the ring gear bolts and
carrier casting.
f. Remove spreader immediately to prevent the
possibility of the carrier taking a set.
g. Remove the screws holding the ring gear to the
differential case.
h. With a small punch, as shown in Fig. N-20, drive
out the lock pin.
294
F I G . N-21—END Y O K E H O L D I N G
WRENCH
1—Nut
2— Wrench C-3281
3 — Yoke
Note: Pinion bearing adjusting shims may remain
on the pinion shaft; stick to the bearing which is
still in the housing; or fall out loose. These shims
should be collected and kept for reassembly.
m. Remove outer pinion bearing cone, baffle and
oil seal by using a 2" x 2" piece of hardwood or a
length of pipe and drive out through the neck of
the carrier housing. Discard seal.
N
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L SERIES SERVICE M A N U A L
F I G . N-2 2 — E N D Y O K E
PULLER
FIG. N-24—PULLING PINION INNER
1— Puller Tool
2—-Adapters
BEARING
W-104-B
N-14. Pinion Bearing Cup Removal
Note: The differential carrier housing has recesses
in the casting to permit the use of a brass drift to
drive the inner and outer bearing cups from the
housing.
a. Using a brass drift, drive the pinion inner bearing cup and shims from the housing. Even if
mutilated, these shims should be kept for proper
assembly of differential.
b. Using a brass drift, drive the outer pinion cup
from the housing.
FIG. N-23—REMOVING CONE AND R O L L E R
WITH PULLER
N-13. Pinion and Differential Case
Bearing Removal
To remove the differential bearing cones and rollers
and pinion inner bearing cone and roller, use Bearing Puller W-104-B with proper adapters as shown
in Fig. N-23 and N-24. Use of the puller and
adapters assures easy removal of bearings without
damage to cone rollers as pulling pressure is applied
directly to the bearing cone. The information outlined below references the axle model and adpater
plate number used with Puller W-104-B when removing tapered roller bearings from the axle assembly components.
Axle Model
Axle Shaft Bearing
(Tapered Shaft)
Pinion Bearing
Differential
Side Carrier Bearing
27
# 41 Adapter
# 40 Adapter
# 39 Adapter with SP-1100
44
#13 Adapter
# 2 1 Adapter
# 18 Adapter with SP-1100
N-15. Cleaning and Inspection
a. Clean all parts in fast evaporating mineral
spirits or a dry cleaning solvent and with the exception of bearings, dry with compressed air.
b. Inspect differential bearing cones, cups and
rollers for pitting, galling or other visible damage.
c. Inspect differential case for elongated or enlarged pinion shaft hole. The machined thrust
washer surface areas and counterbores must be
smooth and without metal deposits or surface imperfections. If any of the above conditions exist,
satisfactory correction must be made or the case
replaced. Inspect case for cracks or other visible
damage which might render it unfit for further
service.
d. Inspect differential pinion shaft for excessive
wear in contact area of differential pinions. Shaft
should be smooth and round with no scoring or
metal pickup
e. Inspect differential side gears and pinions; they
should have smooth teeth with a uniform contact
pattern without excessive wear or broken surfaces.
The differential side gear and pinion thrust washers
should be smooth and free from any scoring or
metal pickup.
295
N
REAR A X L E
f. Inspect axle shaft thrust block for excessive
wear or visible damage. The wear surface on the opposite ends of the blocks, must be smooth.
Note: Thrust block used with semi-float tapered
axles only.
g. Inspect differential pinion shaft lock pin for
damage or looseness in case. Replace pin or case as
necessary.
h. Inspect drive gear and pinion for worn or
chipped teeth or damaged attaching bolt threads.
If replacement is necessary, replace both the drive
gear and drive pinion as they are available in
matched sets only.
i. Inspect drive pinion bearing cones, cups and
rollers for pitting, galling, excessive wear, or other
visible damage. If inspection reveals that either are
unfit for further service, replace both cup and cone,
j. Inspect differential carrier for cracks or other
visible damage which would render it unfit for
further service. Raised metal on the shoulder of
bearing cup bores incurred in removing pinion cups
should be flattened by use of a flat nose punch.
k. Inspect drive pinion for damaged bearings
journals and mounting shim surface or excessively
worn splines. If replacement is necessary, replace
both the drive pinion and drive gear as they are
available in matched sets only.
I. Inspect companion flange for cracks, worn
splines, pitted, rough or corroded oil seal contacting
surface. Repair or replace companion flange as
necessary.
m. Inspect drive pinion bearing shim pack for
broken, damaged or distorted shims. Replace if
necessary during establishment of pinion bearing
preload.
N-16. Pinion Installation and Adjustment
Refer to Fig. N-3 and N-7.
Adjustment of the pinion is accomplished by the
use of shims placed between the inner bearing cup
and the axle housing and between the pinion
shoulder and the outer bearing. The shims behind
F I G . N-2 5 — I N S T A L L I N G O U T E R B E A R I N G C U P
296
F I G . N-26—PINION B E A R I N G I N S T A L L I N G
SLEEVE
1—Sleeve
the inner bearing cup adjust the position of pinion
in relation to the ring gear. The shims behind the
outer bearing adjust the pinion inner and outer
bearing preload. Install the pinion as follows:
a. Install outer bearing cup using Tool W-264 on
model 27 and W-126 on model 44 axles, as shown
in Fig. N-25.
b. Install the inner bearing cup using Tool W-126
on model 27 axles, and Tool W-344 on model 44
axles to drive the cup into the housing.
c. Use Tool C-3095 to press the inner bearing cone
and roller onto the pinion shaft on axle Model 44.
Other models use Tool W-262 as shown in Fig.
N-26.
d. Place the pinion in the housing and install a
.065" [1,651 mm.] shim, the inner cone and roller*
sleeve SP-1997 from Tool W-162, and the pinion
nut.
e. Select the proper pinion adjusting gauge to
obtain the correct reading for the differential model.
The pinion adjusting fixture must first be set by
the use of a master gauge which is included in the
W-99 Kit. Gauge block W-101-A-24 or SP5433 is
stamped with the letter H which indicates it is used
to set the adjusting fixture on Model 27AF axle
differentials. Gauge block W-101-A-22 or SP5453
is stamped with the letters D, G, F , A, C, E and B.
Use the letter E for Model 44 axle differentials.
Tool SP-5264 is used with the dial indicator in
W-99 Tool Set for setting pinion.
After selecting the proper gauge, the adjusting fixture can be set as follows:
N
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
f. Place the gauge block against the machined surface of the dial indicator mount, as shown in Fig.
N-2 8.
g. Set the dial indicator on zero by rotating the
face.
h. Install the pinion adjusting fixture on the pinion
with the stationary guide pin and the adjustable
guide pin seated in pinion shaft lathe centers, as
shown in Fig. N-2 7.
j
FIG.
FIG.
N-2 7 — P I N I O N A D J U S T I N G
1— Dial Gauge Swing Arc
2 — Pinion
3 — Flange
4— Yoke
5—Thumb Screw
6— Guide Pin
FIXTURE
7— C-Clamp
8— Sleeve Bearing
9—Inner Bearing
10—Housing
11— Stationary Guide Pin
12—Pinion Housing
Note: Use the "C" type alignment fixture vertically as shown in Fig. N-29, so that weight of jig
assembly is always directly centered and supported
on pinion shaft center. The function of the fixture
is to accurately hold the dial indicator and its
N-29—CHECKING
PINION
11534
j
ADJUSTMENT
mount in alignment to the pinion shaft while it is
pivoted on the stationary guide pin. If a consistent
repeat dial reading cannot be obtained, look for
dirty or burred pinion centers or a bent or twisted
aligning jig. Keep jig flat in metal case when not
in use. Do not allow other tools to rest on i t Treat
the C-type fixture tool carefully as a precision instrument.
i. Seat the gauge mount firmly on the pinion head
and swing the dial indicator through the differential
bearing bore as shown in Fig. N-29.
j. The lowest reading indicates the center of the
differential bearing bore. At this point the dial indicator should read the same as mark etched on the
pinion head. If the reading does not agree, add or
remove the shims behind the bearing cup until
the readings agree.
k. The end of each pinion is etched with a plus
( + ) number, a minus (—) number or zero (0)
number to indicate the best running position for
each particular gear set. This dimension is controlled by shimming behind the inner pinion bearing cup. Therefore if a pinion is etched (-f-2), this
pinion would require .002" less shims than a pinion
etched "0". B y removing shims the mounting distance is increased which is just what a ( + 2 ) etching indicates. Or if a pinion is etched (—2), add
.002" more shims than would be required if the
pinion were etched "0". By adding .002" shims the
mounting distance is decreased which is just what
a (—2) etching indicates.
Note: To increase the dial reading decrease shims;
to decrease the dial reading increase shims.
Example: With a dial reading of minus .001" and
a pinion marking of plus .002" remove .003" shims
to obtain a higher dial reading of plus .002"
FIG. N-28—SETTING PINION G A U G E F O R
M O D E L 27AF A X L E D I F F E R E N T I A L
1— Dial Indicator
2 — Gauge Block
3 — Stationary Pin
4— C-Clamp
I. If the original ring and pinion set is to be reused, measure the old pinion shim pack and build a
new shim pack to this dimension. Collect shim pack
saved from teardown. Measure each shim separately
297
N
REAR A X L E
with a micrometer and add together to get total
shim pack thickness from original buildup. Note
the (-j-) or (—) etching on both the old pinion and
the new one, and adjust the thickness of new shim
pack to compensate for the difference between
these two figures. Refer to chart for example. If the
old pinion reads ( + 2 ) and the new pinion is (—2),
add .004" shims to the original pack dimension.
Now build a new shim pack to this resulting dimension.
m. When the correct adjustment is reached, remove
the pinion adjusting fixture and sleeve SP-1997.
Install outer bearing.
n. Install only the oil slinger, the yoke, the flat
washer, and the pinion nut Holding the yoke with
Flange Holder C-3281, torque the nut 200 to
220 lb-ft. [27,65 a 30,42 kg-m.].
o. Using Inch-Pound Torque Wrench W-297 on
the nut check the rotating torque. The rotating
torque should be 10 to 25 lb-in. [0,115 a 0,288
kg-m.].
p. Add or remove shims between the pinion outer
bearing and the pinion shaft to obtain correct
torque reading.
N-l7. Differential Case Reassembly
Procedure for assembling the differential case on
semifloating rear axles is as follows:
a. Reassemble the differential pinions, side gears,
thrust washers, and shaft in relative position shown
in Fig. N-3 and N-7. Make sure the spacers are
installed.
b. Install differential shaft lock pin.
Note: Disregard starting torque.
Old
Pinion
NEW PINION M A R K I N G
-4
-3
-2
_1
0
+4
+0.008
+0.007
+0.006
+0.005
+3
+0.007
+0.006
+0.005
+0.004
+0.003
+2
+0.006
+0.005
+0.004
+0.003
+0.002
+1
+0.005
+0.004
+0.003
+0.002
+0.001
0
+0.004
+0.003
+0.002
+0.001
0
_1
+0.003
+0.002
+0.001
0
-0.001
-2
+0.002
+0.001
0
-0.001
-0.002
-3
+0.001
0
-0.001
-0.002
-0.003
-4
0
-0.001
-0.002
-0.003
-0.004
Old
Pinion
Marking
NEW PINION M A R K I N G
+1
+2
+3
+4
+0.003
+0.002
+0.001
0
+3
+0.002
+0.001
0
-0.001
+2
+0.001
0
-0.001
-0.002
+1
0
-0.001
-0.002
-0.003
-0.001
-0.002
-0.003
-0.004
-1
-0.002
-0.003
-0.004
- 0 005
-2
-0.003
-0.004
-0.005
-0.006
-3
-0.004
-0.005
-0.006
-0.007
_4
-0.005
-0.006
-0.007
-0.008
0
+0.004
+4
FIG. N-30—DIFFERENTIAL
SHIM PACK LOCATIONS
298
N
9
'Jeep U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
c. Check side gear clearance as described in Par.
N-18.
d. Examine contacting surfaces of ring gear and
differential case for burrs or foreign matter.
e. Assemble ring gear on differential case with assembly hole on each lined up.
f. Tap ring gear into place with mallet.
g. Install ring gear screws. Torque 35 to 55 lb-ft.
[4,84 a 7,60 kg-m.].
N-18.
Adjustment of Differential Side Gears
Clearance between the differential side gears and
differential case should be .000" to .006" [0,000 a
0,192 mm.] Procedure for checking clearance is as
follows:
a. With the differential positioned as shown in
Fig. N-31, tap the differential lightly on a flat surface so the differential gears settle into proper
position.
b. Measure the clearance between side gears and
the case with leaf feeler gauge as illustrated.
c. If the clearance exceds .006" add shims between
the side gears and the case. To bring the clearance
within specified tolerance, shims in these thicknesses are available.
.004" [0,102 mm.], .006" [0,152 mm.], .008" [0,203
mm.]. If shims are required, at least one shim
should be placed on each side and the shim packs
kept as even as possible. After adding shims, repeat
the clearance check.
cup and the axle housing. There should be only
.001" to .002" [0,025 a 0,051 mm.] backlash
remaining with the feeler gauge inserted.
c. After the shim pack requirement for each bearing has been established remove the differential
assembly. Make up shim packs and keep them
separated.
d. Add an additional .015" [0,381 mm.] thickness:
of shims to the pack on the tooth side of the ring
gear.
e. Place the differential bearing shim packs on the
differential case under each bearing. Install bearings with Driver C-3716 for Model 27AF axles
and Driver W-188 for Model 44 axles. See Fig.
N-32.
Note: When overhauling the Model 27AF front
axle differential, check the axle inner oil seals.
Should new seals be required, install them using
Tool W-128 as shown in Fig. N-33. When installing
the axle differential in the axle housing, use
Spreader Tool W-129.
f. Attach the Carrier Spreader W-129, (see note
Par. N-12) install a dial indicator, (Fig. N-19) and
spread the carrier a maximum of .020" [0,508
mm.].
10009
FIG. N-31—CHECKING
SIDE GEAR
CLEARANCE
N-l9. Adjustment of Differential Bearing Preload
and Ring Gear Backlash
Refer to Fig. N-30.
The adjustment of the differential bearings is maintained by the use of shims placed betwen the differential case and the differential bearing. Procedure for adjusting bearing preload is as follows:
a. Install the differential case and bearings in the
axle housing without shims and with the bearing
cups snug.
b. Holding the ring gear in contact with the pinipn
and using a screwdriver blade to move the differential bearing cups toward the center, insert feeler
gauge on each side between differential bearing
FIG. N-32—DIFFERENTIAL
BEARING
DRIVER
299
N
REAR
AXLE
tween the two differential bearing shim packs until
correct backlash is obtained.
Note: Changing the position of a .005" [0,127 mm.]
shim from one side to the other will change the
amount of backlash approximately .003" [0,076
mm.].
11874
m. Check ring gear for runout. A reading in excess
of .006" [0,152 mm.] indicates a sprung differential
case, dirt between the case and the gear, or loose
ring gear screws.
n. I n order to assist in determining whether the
gears are properly adjusted, paint the bevel gear
teeth with red lead or prussion blue and turn the
bevel gear so the pinion will make an impression
on the teeth. The correct procedure to follow in the
event of an unsatisfactory tooth contact is shown
in Fig. N-35.
o. After the differential has been assembled and
adjusted, the pinion shaft oil seal should be installed.
FIG. N-33—INSTALLING INNER OIL SEALS —
M O D E L 27 F R O N T A X L E D I F F E R E N T I A L
g. Remove the indicator.
h. Lubricate bearings and place the differential in
the carrier.
i. Tap the unit carefully into place with soft mallet, making sure the ring gear teeth mesh with the
pinion teeth.
j. Install bearing caps, matching their markings
with those on the carrier.
k. Apply sealing compound to the screw threads.
Torque the screws 70 to 90 lb-ft. [9,68 a 12,44
kg-m.].
I. Install dial indicator to check ring gear backlash (Fig. N-34). Check backlash at two points.
Backlash must be held between .005" to .010"
[0,127 a 0,254 mm.]. If backlash does not fall within specifications, shims should be interchanged be-
THE HEEL OF GEAR TOOTH IS THE LARGE
END, AND THE TOE IS THE SHALL END.
WORKING
DEPTH
TOO MUCH BACK LASH
MOVE GEAR TOWARD PINION
MOVE PINION OUT
AWAY FROM RING GEAR
CORRECT
SETTING
TOO LITTLE BACK LASH
MOVE GEAR AWAY FROM PINION
MOVE PINION IN
TOWARD RING GEAR
COMPROMISE
SETTING
\: U S 3 3
10547
FIG.
300
N-34—CHECKING
RING GEAR BACKLASH
FIG.
N-35—GEAR T O O T H
CONTACT
N
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L SERIES SERVICE M A N U A L
13189
F I G . N-36—PINION S H A F T O I L S E A L I N S T A L L E R
1—Tool W-147
p. Remove the sleeve previously installed in place
of the yoke. Install the oil seal with Tool W-147
shown i n Fig. N-36.
q. Install the yoke with Flange Installer W-162,
as shown i n Fig. N-3 7.
r. Install pinion nut and cotter pin.
s. Install axle shafts and housing cover.
N-20. POWR-LOK DIFFERENTIAL
As optional equipment, Powr-Lok was previously
available on all Jeep Universal models equipped
with semi-float tapered axle shafts. The Powr-Lok
differential may be identified by a tag located on
the opposite side of the differential housing from
the ratio tag (Fig. N-2) and stamped with either
a " T " or with the words, "USE L I M I T E D SLIP
D I F F . L U B E ONLY." This differential is available
for rear axles only.
Whenever a replacement or conversion Powr-Lok
differential is to be installed in an axle which has
been previously i n service and acquired mileage,
be sure to record the amount of backlash between
the ring gear and pinion at the time of disassembly.
When the axle is again assembled the ring gear
and pinion must be set to this same amount of backlash.
Axle ratios and speedometer gear application is
very important. I n like model axles, the ratio may
be changed by simply changing to the desired ring
gear and pinion; except in the case of the 3.73:1
or higher ratios. When changing from a 3.73:1 or
higher to 3.54 or lower ratio, or vice versa, the
differential case must also be changed on a standard differential assembly, and the differential assembly, less ring gear and pinion, when a Powr-Lok
differential assembly is involved. When changing
from any ratio to another, i t will also be necessary
to change speedometer gears. Speedometer gears
for Powr-Lok and standard differentials of the
same ratio, are interchangeable. A complete rear
axle assembly replacement is necessary, if a conversion from one type of differential assembly to
another is desired.
Note: Powr-Lok differentials use a special lubricant. Refer to the Lubrication Chart.
N-21. Trouble Symptoms and Possible Causes
If noises such as chatter are detected, when turning
a corner, the probable reason for this is that incorrect gear lubricant has been installed in the axle.
Axles equipped with a limited slip differential
require special lubricant. Refer to Lubrication Section, Par. B-52.
Note: I t may be necessary to use an additive to
attempt to eliminate chatter. I f this is not successful then disassembly and inspection of the differential becomes necessary.
Warning: Extreme care must be exercised on a
Powr-Lok equipped vehicle to be sure the transmission is in the neutral position whenever the engine
is started with one wheel jacked up. Otherwise the
vehicle may lurch unexpectedly and fall off the
jack.
FIG. N-37—YOKE
INSTALLING TOOL
N-22. Torque Test
Procedure for testing torque Powr-Lok differentials
on Jeep Universal Series vehicles is as follows:
FIG. N-38—POWR-LOK
DIFFERENTIAL
1—Differential Case Flange Half
2—Disc and Plate Set
3 — Side Gear Ring
4— Side Gear and Pinion Mate Gear Set
5—Pinion Mate Cross Shaft
6—Differential Case Button Half
7—Axle Shaft Spacer
8—Axle Shaft Spacer Roll Pin
11564
301
N
REAR AXLE
a. Place the transmission in neutral.
b. Raise one wheel off the floor and place a block
in front and at the rear of the opposite wheel.
c. Apply a torque wrench to the axle shaft nut of
the elevated wheel.
d. Turn wheel with torque wrench. Disregard
breakaway torque and observe torque required to
continuously turn wheel smoothly. Torque should
read 40 lb-ft [5,53 kg-m.] or more.
N-23. Powr-Lok Differential Disassembly
/
and Reassembly
Refer to Figs. N-38 and N-39.
The procedure for overhauling disc type Powr-Lok
differentials is as follows:
a. Remove axle shafts following procedure described in Par. N-2.
b. Remove housing cover and gasket.
c. Remove the Powr-Lok differential from the axle.
Do not remove the ring gear or bearing cone and
rollers unless replacement is to be made. Mark
the hearing cups so they may later be reassembled
with the same bearing cones. Mark the differential
case halves for correct alignment at reassembly.
Each pinion mate cross shaft should also be marked
so that each pin cam surface will match with the
same V-ramp in the case when reassembled.
d. Separate the case halves.
e. Remove the disc and plate sets. The illustration
(Fig. N-39) shows the arrangement of plates and
discs. When reassembling unit, discs and plates
must be reinstalled in this arrangement. Be sure
to keep in mind which way the set will face toward
the case.
^®(j)(j)CD©
®
/'Ml
I
FIG.
N-39—PLATE ASSEMBLY
A—Model 44
1 —Case
2 — Belleville Plate
3 — Belleville Disc
4—Plate
302
11 1 1 v
ORPER
B—Model 27
5—Disc
6 — T h i n Plate
7—Sidegear Ring
8—Side Gear
f. Remove the pinion mate cross shafts, bevel
pinion mate gears, bevel side gears, and side gear
rings.
g. Clean all parts thoroughly in kerosene and dry
with compressed air.
h. Inspect all parts. Replace any items which appear to be worn or damaged.
i. Inspect the plate surfaces of the case halves, the
side gear rings, and the clutch friction plates and
discs for excessive wear or scoring.
j. Inspect the pinion mate shaft and ramp surfaces on the case for excessive wear and pitting,
k. Inspect the pinion gear races that bear on the
side gear rings.
I. Inspect the corresponding surfaces on the side
gear rings.
m. Inspect the clutch plates and discs for cracks
and distortion. In the event one or more of the
clutch plates or discs needs replacing, replace the
entire stack of plates and discs on each side of
the pinions. These stacks are supplied in sets.
The differential case halves are not serviced. Should
replacement be required, it is necesary to replace
the complete differential.
n. Assemble the clutch friction plates, clutch friction discs, and dished plates on the splined hub
of each bevel side gear. Make sure the plates and
discs are installed in the proper relationship as
shown in Fig. N-39. The dished plates in the plate
and disc set are always assembled with the convex
side toward the case. As each part is reassembled
in its proper position, it is necessary that it be
lightly coated with Powr-Lok lubricant,
o. Place each differential case half on its side and
install the side gear rings with the plates and discs
assembled. The side gear ring will rotate with a
slight drag when properly located in the case,
p. With the ring gear flange half of the differential
case in an upright position, assemble the bevel side
gears, pinion mate cross shafts, and bevel pinion
mate gears. Install the remaining case half on the
ring gear flange half. Make sure that all markings
coincide.
q. Install the differential case bolts and turn them
in a few threads.
r. Using axle shafts from the vehicle, align the
splines of the side gear, and the side gear ring,
s. With these axle shafts in position, tighten the
differential case bolts evenly. Torque 35 to 45 lb-ft.
[4,84 a 6,22 kg-m.].
t. Remove the axle shafts.
u. Check for proper assembly. Each pinion mate
cross shaft should be tight on its ramp. If there is
clearance between the cross shaft and the ramp,
the clearance should be no more than .005"
[0,127 mm.].
This clearance should be equal on all four cross
shaft ends.
v. Reinstall the unit in the axle.
w. Install axle shafts as described in Par. N-2.
Other service operations such as ring gear and
pinion replacement, or pinion and bearing adjustments, are performed in the same manner as de-
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
scribed in Pars. N - l l through N-l9 for standard
axles, with the exception of the following torque
recommendations. Torque the differential case
bearing cap screws 70 to 90 lb-ft. [9,7 a 12,4 kg-m.]
and the cover screws 15 to 25 lb-ft. [2,1 a 3,4
kg-m.]. The ring gear screws on axles with PowrLok differentials should be torqued as follows:
Model 30 and 44 axles 35 to 55 lb-ft. [4,84 a
7,60 kg-m.].
N-24. TRAC-LOK DIFFERENTIAL
As optional equipment Trac-Lok Model 44 differential is available on all Jeep Universal vehicles
equipped with semi-float flanged axle shafts.
A conventional differential transmits all of the
ring gear torque through the differential gears to
the axle shafts. Torque is at all times equal on the
axle shafts, and if one wheel slips, the other wheel
can only put out as much torque as the slipping
wheel.
The Trac-Lok differential is similar, except that
part of the torque from the ring gear is transmitted through clutch packs between the side gears
and differential case. The multiple disc clutches
with radial grooves on the plates and concentric
grooves on the discs are engaged by a preload
from Belleville springs, plus separating forces from
the side gears as torque is applied through the
ring gear.
The Trac-Lok construction permits differential
action when required for turning corners and transmits equal torque to both wheels when driving
straight ahead. However, when one wheel tries
to spin due to leaving the ground, a patch of ice,
etc., the clutch packs automatically provide more
torque to the wheel which is not trying to spin.
It can be seen then that the Trac-Lok differential
resists wheel spin on bumpy roads and provides
more pulling power when one wheel tries to slip.
In many cases of differences in traction, pulling
power will be automatically provided until both
wheels start to slip.
In diagnosis of vehicle operators' complaints, it
is important to recognize two things:
a. If, with unequal traction, both wheels slip, the
Trac-Lok has done all it can possibly do.
b. In extreme cases of differences in traction, the
wheel with least traction may spin after the TracLok has transferred as much torque as possible
to the non-slipping wheel.
N-25. Lubrication
The Trac-Lok differential requires a special lubricant and ordinary multipurpose gear lubricants
M U S T N O T be used. Use only 'Jeep* Differential
Oil, Part No. 94557.
Trac-Lok differential may be cleaned only by
disassembling the unit and wiping with clean rags.
Do not flush the Trac-Lok unit.
Note: The Trac-Lok differential is serviced at the
same time intervals as the standard differential.
N-26. Trouble Symptoms
If noises or roughness, such as chatter, are present
N
in turning corners, the probable cause is incorrect
or contaminated lubricant.
Before any differential is removed and disassembled for chatter complaints, the correctness of lubricant can and should be determined.
A complete lubricant drain, and refill with specified
Limited Slip Differential lubricant will usually
correct chatter.
The following procedure is recommended to ensure
complete removal of old lubricant.
a. Warm the lubricant by vehicle road operation,
or 5 minutes of operation in gear at 30 mph with
both wheels off the ground on a hoist.
Caution: Never place the transmission in gear with
the engine running when only one wheel of a
Limited Slip Differential equipped vehicle is raised.
The vehicle might drive itself off the jack and
produce damage or injury.
b. Drain lubricant while warm. Remove drain plug
or cover to drain completely. If cover is removed,
it may be necessary to replace gasket at this time.
c. Refill axle with specified Limited Slip Differential lubricant.
d. Operate the vehicle for approximately ten miles
[16,09 km.], making at least ten figure 8 turns
to flush the old lubricant out of the clutch packs.
e. Repeat steps b, c, and d, making sure to replace
the cover gasket if required in step c.
f. It is possible that slight chatter, requiring additional vehicle operation, may remain after step
e. If chatter persists after 100 miles [160,9 km.]
of vehicle operation, or remains severe after step
e above, disassembly and repair will be necessary.
N-27.
Unit Inoperative
Proper performance and capabilities of Limited
Slip Differentials are often misunderstood. No
precise methods of measuring Limited Slip Differential performance are generally available in
the field. A functioning unit can be determined by
relatively simple vehicle operational tests, as
follows:
a. Place one wheel on good dry pavement, and the
other on ice, mud, grease, etc.
b. Gradually increase engine rpm to obtain maximum traction prior to "break-a-way." The ability
to move the vehicle effectively will demonstrate
proper performance.
c. If extremely slick surfaces, such as ice or grease,
are used some question may exist as to proper performance at step b. In these extreme cases a properly performing Limited Slip Differential will provide greater "pulling" power by lightly applying
the parking brake.
N-23. Trac-Lok Differential Disassembly
and Reassembly
It is recommended that the complete axle assembly
be removed from the vehicle, when it becomes
necessary to remove the Trac-Lok from the housing. Refer to Par. N-3 and N-12 for removal of
axle shafts and differential case from axle housing.
303
N
REAR AXLE
With the Trac-Lok unit removed from the axle
housing, proceed as follows:
N-29. Disassembly
a. Place the axle shaft, which was removed from
the assembly, into a vise. Tighten shaft in vise
firmly. The spline end of the shaft is not to extend
beyond 2 A" [7 cm.] above the top of the vise.
This will eliminate the shaft from fully entering
into the side gear and causing interference with
the step plate tool during disassembly of the pinion
mate gears, etc. Refer to Fig. N-40.
3
FIG. N-42—REMOVING
RING
GEAR
the gear teeth from becoming nicked after it is
free from the case. Tap ring gear with a rawhide
hammer to free it from the case.
Note: It is recommended that whenever the ring
gear screws are removed they are to be replaced
with new screws.
FIG. N-40—AXLE SHAFT POSITIONED IN VISE
b. Assemble the differential case to the axle shaft
with the ring gear screw heads up. Assembling the
differential case onto the shaft will serve as a
holding device to remove the ring gear and to
disassemble the internal parts of the case.
d. Remove differential case from axle shaft and
remove ring gear.
e. All Trac-Loks are identified with a manufacturing date, and the complete part number stamped
on the barrel of the case. If the axle is equipped
with Trac-Lok Limited Slip Differential, it will
contain a tag requesting the use of Limited Slip
Lubricant.
FIG. N-43—TRAC-LOK IDENTIFICATION
FIG. N-41—DIFFERENTIAL POSITIONED
ON A X L E SHAFT
c. Remove the ring gear screws and ring gear. It
is necessary to remove the ring gear to allow
clearance for the removal of the cross pin. Place a
few shop towels over the top of the vise to protect
304
f. The Trac-Lok is identified with Vs" [3,18 m m j
high numbers stamped in the case. For example:
The numbers 8-5-69A is the manufacturing or build
date of the Trac-Lok and is interpreted as follows.
The first number is the month, second number is
the day of the month, third number is the year,
the letter is the shift. For example: August 5,
1969 first shift The number stamped above the
N
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
"S |
14342
FIG. N-46—INSTALLING S T E P P L A T E TOOL
F I G . N-44—REMOVING SNAP R I N G S
F R O M CROSS PIN
manufacturing date is the complete Trac-Lok assembly part number.
g. It is recommended that when referring to the
Trac-Lok, obtain the complete part number and
build date. T o do this it will be necessary to wipe
off the lubricant from the case. See Fig. N-43.
h. Reposition differential case onto axle shaft as
shown. Remove the two snap rings from the cross
pin. Use two screw drivers and push the rings free
from the cross pin. Place a shop towel behind
the case to prevent the snap rings from flying out
of the case. Refer to Fig. N-44.
FIG. N-45—REMOVING
V
14351
FIG. N-47—INSTALLING
GEAR ROTATING TOOL
CROSS PIN
i. Remove the cross pin. Use a hammer and punch
as shown to remove the cross pin from the case.
FIG. N-48—THREADING FORCING SCREW
INTO ROTATING TOOL
Note: A gear rotating tool C-4142 is required to
service the Trac-Lok diferential. The Tool consists
of four parts: a Handle, Pawl, Forcing Screw and
Step Plate.
I. Insert the forcing screw down through the top
of the case and thread into the gear rotating tool.
j. Assemble the step plate tool into the bottom
side gear, as shown in Fig. N-4 6.
k. Position the gear rotating tool into the top
side gear, as shown in Big. N-4 7.
Note: Before using the forcing screw be sure the
threads are lubricated with a fine coat of oil. Also
apply a small spot of grease to the centering hole
in the step plate before it contacts the forcing
screw.
305
N
REAR AXLE
the required load is applied to the Belleville springs
to allow the side gear and pinion mate gears to
rotate. Refer to Fig. N-50.
r. Retain the top side gear and clutch pack in
the case by holding hand on the bottom of the
rotating tool while removing forcing screw. Remove
rotating tool, top side gear, and clutch pack.
FIG. N-49—REMOVING PINION M A T E
WASHERS
m. Thread forcing screw so that it becomes centered into the step plate. Torque forcing screw
tight. This will move the side gears away from
the pinion mate gears, and relieve the load between
the gears, allowing only the pinion mate gears to
be loose.
n. Remove both pinion mate spherical washers. Use
a shim stock of .030" [0,762 mm.] thickness or an
equivalent tool to push out the spherical washers.
Relieve the tension of the Belleville spring by loosening the forcing screw. Refer to Fig. N-49.
o. Retighten forcing screw until a very slight movement of the pinion mate gears is detected.
F I G . N-50—-REMOVING PINION M A T E
GEARS
p. Insert the pawl rotating tool between one of
the side gear teeth as shown. Pull on handle so
the top side gear will rotate and also allow the
pinion mate gears to rotate. Also continue pulling
on tool until the gear hits the handle,
q. Remove pawl from between the gear teeth and
repeat the above until the pinion mate gears can
be removed through the large opening of the case.
Note: When attempting to rotate the side gear, it
will probably be necessary to adjust the forcing
screw by very slightly tightening or loosening until
306
F I G . N-51—-TRAC-LOK U N I T
DISASSEMBLY
s. Remove the differential case from the axle shaft.
Turn case with the flange or ring gear side up
and allow the step plate tool side gear and clutch
pack to be removed from the case. Remove the
retainer clips from both clutch packs to allow
separation of the plates and discs. Refer to Fig.
N-51.
N-30.
Inspection
N-31.
Reassembly
a. Plates and discs — If any one member of either
stack shows evidence of excessive wear or scoring,
then the complete stack is to be replaced on both
sides.
b. Side gears and pinion mate gears — The gear
teeth of these parts should be checked for extreme
wear or possible cracks. The external teeth of the
side gear which holds the clutch pack should also
be checked for wear or cracks. If replacement of
one gear is required due to wear, etc., then both
side gears, pinion mate gears, and washers are to
be replaced.
c. Cross pin — If excessive wear is evident, then
the cross pin should be replaced.
d. Clutch retainer clips — If wear is evident on
any one of the retainer clips, it is suggested that
all four clips be replaced.
e. Differential case — If scoring, wear, or metal
pick-up is evident on the machined surfaces, then
replacement of the case is necessary.
I. Example of radial groove plate ( A ) and the concentric groove disc ( B ) shown in Fig. N-52.
a. Assemble plates and discs in exactly the same
position as they were removed, regardless of
whether they are new parts or the original parts.
N
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
to the side gear splines and that the retainer clips
are completely seated into the pockets of the case.
T o prevent pack from falling out of the case i t will
be necessary to hold them i n place by hand while
assembling the case onto the axle shaft.
FIG. N-52—PLATE AND DISC IDENTIFICATION
FIG. N-55—INSTALL D I F F E R E N T I A L
ON A X L E S H A F T
I
FIG. N-S3—LUBRICATING TRAC-LOK
COMPONENTS
14340
b. Prelubricate the thrust face of the side gear,
assemble the plates and discs to the side gear
splines, prelubing each part as shown with the
specified lubricant. Both stacks. See Fig. N-53.
CASE
e. Assemble differential case onto the axle shaft
in the position as shown i n Fig. N-55.
Caution: When assembling the differential case onto
the axle shaft, be sure that the splines of the side
gears are lined up with those of the axle shaft.
Also make sure that the clutch pack is still properly
assembled into the case after assembling the case
onto the shaft.
f. Assemble the step plate tool into the side gear
as shown in Fig. N-4 6. Apply a small dab of grease
into the centering hole of the step plate tool.
FIG. N-54—INSTALLING P L A T E R E T A I N E R
CLIPS
c. Assemble the retainer clips to the ears of the
plates. Make sure both stacks are completely assembled or seated onto the ears of the plates.
d. W i t h the differential case positioned as shown,
assemble the clutch pack and side gear into the
case. Make sure the clutch pack stays assembled
FIG. N-56—INSTALLING C L U T C H PACK
AND SIDE G E A R
307
N
REAR AXLE
i. Keep side gear and rotating tool in position
by holding with hand. Insert the forcing screw down
through the top of the case, and thread into the
rotating tool. Refer to Fig. N-58.
j. Position both pinion mate gears exactly as
shown. Be sure the holes of the gears are lined up
with each other. Hold gears in place by hand. See
Fig. N-59.
k. Tighten forcing screw so that the Belleville
springs will compress and allow clearance between
the teeth of the pinion mate gears and side gears.
F I G . N-57—POSITIONING
GEAR ROTATING TOOL
g. Assemble the other clutch pack and side gear
exactly as shown. Be sure the clutch pack stays
assembled onto the side gear splines and that the
retainer clips are completely seated into the pockets
of the case. Refer to Fig. N-56.
h. Position the gear rotating tool into the top side
gear.
FIG. N-60—ROTATING PINION M A T E G E A R S
INTO POSITION
I. While holding the pinion mate gears in place,
insert the pawl of the rotating tool between one
of the side gear teeth as shown. Pull on handle
so that the top side gear will rotate and allow the
pinion mate gears to rotate and enter into the case.
Note: As mentioned before, it will probably be
necessary to adjust the forcing screw by very
slightly loosening or tightening until the required
load is applied to the Belleville plates or discs to
allow the side gear and pinion mate gears to rotate.
FIG. N-58—THREADING FORCING SCREW
INTO ROTATING TOOL
FIG. N-59—STARTING PINION M A T E G E A R S
INTO CASE
308
FIG. N-61—INSTALLING PINION M A T E W A S H E R S
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
m. Pull on tool until the handle hits the gear.
Remove pawl from between the gear teeth, reposition handle and pawl. Repeat the same operation
until the holes of both pinion mate gears are lined
up exactly with those of the case,
n. Prelubricate both sides of the pinion mate
spherical washers with the specified lubricant,
o. Apply torque to the forcing screw to allow
clearance to assemble the spherical washers,
p. Assemble washers into case. Use a very small
screw driver to push washers into place, as shown
in Fig. N-61.
Caution: Be sure the holes of the washers and gears
are lined up exactly with those of the case.
q. Remove forcing screw, rotating tool, and step
plate.
FIG. N-62—INSTALLING CROSS P I N
r. Prelubricate the cross pin with the specified
lubricant. Assemble cross pin into case. Use a
hammer as shown. Be sure the snap ring grooves
of the cross pin are exposed to allow assembly of
the snap rings. Refer to Fig. N-62.
s. Assemble snap rings.
FIG. N-63—TORQUING RING G E A R
SCREWS
N
t. Remove case from axle shaft. Assemble ring gear
to case.
u. Line up the ring gear screw holes with those
of the case. Assemble ring gear screws finger tight,
v. Reposition differential case onto axle shaft as
shown. Draw screws up evenly.
Note: Use new ring gear screws and torque to 4550 ft. lbs.
w. This completes the service procedure for the
Trac-Lok assembly. Install Trac-Lok differential
case assembly into axle housing. Follow the service
procedure given in Par. N-8 and N - l 7 through
N - l 9 , to complete the differential and axle assembly
servicing.
N-32. Complete Trac-Lok Assembly Replacement
a. If inspection reveals that the replacement of
the Trac-Lok as a unit is required, the following
steps should be followed.
b. Remove both differential bearing cones and
shims. Mark or tag each side bearing cone and
shim pack as it is removed to indicate from which
side of the case they were removed.
c. T o remove ring gear from case, follow the
same steps as illustrated in Fig. N-42.
d. Assemble ring gear to new Trac-Lok case. Follow the same steps as illustrated in Fig. N-63. Make
sure the gear flange on the differential case is free
of nicks, burrs, etc.
e. Inspect shims and bearings which were removed
from the old case. If shims on bearings show excessive wear or damage, they should be replaced.
Make sure they are used on exactly the same sides
of the new case as they were removed from the
old case. Assemble shims and differential bearing
cones. Use step plate on bottom bearing to protect
the bearing from becoming damaged during assembly of the top bearing. T o completely seat
the bearings use the proper bearing driver tool.
f. Prelubricate differential bearing cones with the
specified lubricant, and assemble case into axle
housing. Follow the service procedure given in
Par. N-8 and N - l 7 through N-19 to complete the
differential and axle assembly servicing.
N-33. INSTALLING REAR AXLE
All service replacement axle assemblies are shipped
from the factory without lubricant in the differential. Lubricant must be added to the differential
before the axles are installed in vehicles. Use the
grade and quantity of lubricant specified in the
Lubrication Chart.
When adding differential lubricant, suspend the
axle with the axle shafts horizontal and the yoke
end of the pinion housing hanging down, then turn
the pinion shaft several times to assure that the
lubricant gets into the pinion shaft bearings.
Procedure for installing the rear axle on Jeep
Universal Series vehicles is as follows:
a. Position the axle assembly under the vehicle.
b. Position springs to axle pads, and install spring
clips and nuts.
309
m
REAR A X L E
c. Attach the brake line hose at tee fitting on top
of housing.
d. Attach parking brake cables at rear of brake
backing plate. D J models only.
e. Connect the shock absorbers at the axle mounting pads.
f. Connect the propeller shaft at the rear universal
joint.
g. Adjust and bleed brakes. (See Section P ) .
h. Install wheels and lower vehicle to floor.
i. Check parking brake as described in Section P.
j. Fill the axle housing with the proper lubricant.
For correct lubricant refer to the Lubrication Chart.
N-34. TROUBLE SHOOTING
The following problems can be present with either
the conventional differential, Powr-Lok or TracLok differential.
N-35. Backlash
Excessive backlash in the vehicle drive line may
be the results of excessive backlash in the transmission, propeller shaft spline, universal joint, ring
gear and pinion, the axle shaft spline, or the differential.
N-37.
Excessive backlash in the differential may be measured as follows:
a. Jack up one rear wheel.
b. Put the transmission in gear.
c. Measure the travel of the jacked-up wheel on
a 10" [25,40 cm.] radius from the wheel center.
This total movement should not exceed I V i "
[3,17 cm.] in a new unit. In order to restrict the
backlash to the axles only, make sure that the
yoke of the propeller shaft does not move during
the check.
d. If all causes of backlash mentioned above have
been eliminated with the exception of the differential and that still exceeds the maximum allowable
movement, overhaul the differential.
N-36. Rear Wheel Noise
Looseness of the rear axle shaft nut on semifloating tapered rear axles may produce a clicking or
creaking noise. This noise can usually be stopped
by torquing the wheel hub nut 150 to 175 lb-ft.
[20,7 a 24,2 kg-m.]. If the condition has continued
for some time, slight wear may have resulted allowing the noise to persist. In this case, coat the hub,
key, and keyway on tapered axle shafts with white
lead and torque the nut as specified. If the noise
persists after this treatment, replace the worn parts.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
SYMPTOMS
Axle Noisy on Pull and Coast
Excessive Back Lash Bevel Gear and Pinion. . . . .
End Play Pinion Shaft
Worn Pinion Shaft Bearing
Pinion Set too Deep in Bevel Gear too T i g h t . . . . .
Wrong Lubricant Being Used
(Powr-Lok or Trac-Lok Differential)
.
PROBABLE
Adjust
Adjust
Adjust
Adjust
Replace
Axle Noisy on Pull
Pinion and Bevel Gear Improperly Adjusted
Pinion Bearings R o u g h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pinion Bearings Loose
Adjust
Adjust
Adjust
Axle Noisy on Coast
Excessive Back Lash in Bevel Gear and Pinion. . .
End Play in Pinion Shaft.
.
Improper Tooth Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rough Bearings
Adjust
Adjust
Adjust
Replace
Back Lash
Worn Differential Pinion Gear Washers
Excessive Back Lash in Bevel Gear and Pinion. . .
Worn Universal Joints
Adjust
Adjust
Replace
310
REMEDY
N
Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
N-38.
Make
Model
Description
D r i v e P i n i o n Offset ( V e r t i c a l )
N u m b e r of Differential P i n i o n s . . . . . . .
Gear Ratio:
V6 Engine:
Standard
Optional
F 4 Engine:
Standard
Optional
Ring Gear Pitch Diameter
Pinion Adjustment
Pinion Bearing Adjustment
REfiR flXLE SPECIFICATIONS
DJ MODELS
TAPERED
A X L E
SHAFT
CJ MODELS
TAPERED
AXLE
SHAFT
D J and C J M O D E L S
FLANGED
AXLE
SHAFT
Dana
27
Semifloating H y p o i d Gears
1.38" [35 m m . ]
2
Dana
44
Semifloating H y p o i d G e a r s
1.50" [38,0 m m . ]
2
Dana
Semifloating H y p o i d G e a r s
1.50" [38,0 m m . ]
2
3.73:1
4.88:1
3.73:1
4.88:1
3.73:1
4.88:1
4.56:1
4.27:1
5.38:1
4.56:1
5.38:1
7 . 7 5 " [19,68 c m . ]
Shim
Shim
8 . 5 0 " [21,6 c m . ]
Shim
Shim
8 . 5 0 " [21,6 c m . ]
Shim
Shim
44
311
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
STEERING SYSTEM
Contents
SUBJECT
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL......
O-l
Camber Adjustment
0-9
Caster Adjustment.
.0-10
Front Wheel Alignment Adjustments..... . 0-6
Front Wheel Shimmy
0-13
Front Wheel Turning Angle
Oil
Steering Knuckle Arm
O-l2
Steering Gear Function
0-2
Steering Linkage
0-3
Toe-in Adjustment
0-7, 8
STEERING LINKAGE SERVICE..
Drag Link or Connecting Rod
Tie Rod
Tie Rod Removal..
Beilcrank Service
O-l4
O-l5
0-16
O-l7
O-l8
PAR.
STEERING GEAR SERVICE
Reassembly of Steering Gear
Disassembly of Steering Gear
Installation of Steering Gear
Removal of Steering Gear
Steering Gear Adjustment. .
.0-22
0-25
0-24
0-26
0-23
0-5
STEERING COLUMN AND
W H E E L S E R V I C E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0-20
Steering Column Adjustments
0-4
Steering Wheel Installation
0-27
Steering Wheel Removal
0-21
S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS. .
0-28
.0-29
SPECIFICATIONS.
CJ-3B
0
<§>-
i©1
0
0
<B>
®
FIG. O-l—STEERING
1— Frame Cross Tube ( C J - 3 B )
2— Steering Beilcrank Bracket ( C J - 3 B )
3— Steering Beilcrank
4—Front Axle Assembly
5— Steering Connecting Rod ( D r a g L i n k )
6—Steering Gear Arm
7 — Steering Gear
8—Left Steering Knuckle and Arm
9—Left Shaft and Universal Joint
LINKAGE
10—Left Tie Rod Socket
11—Left Steering Tie Rod
12—Left Tie Rod Socket
13— Right Tie Rod Socket
14—Beilcrank Nut
15—Washer
16—Bolt
17—Beilcrank Bearing
18— Bearing Spacer (Early Model)
19— Washer
20—Beilcrank Shaft
21—Bearing Seal
22—Nut
23—Lockwasher
24— Right Steering Tie Rod
25— Right Shaft and Universal Joint
26— Right Steering Knuckle and Arm
313
STEERING SYSTEM
O-L
GENERAL
The steering system on all Jeep Universal vehicles
consists of the steering gear, steering wheel, steering
column and shaft, and steering linkage. This
section covers wheel alignment, steering linkage,
steering gear, steering column and steering wheel.
0-2. Steering Gear F u n c t i o n
The steering gear is a reducing gear. I t exchanges a
relatively large amount of movement with a small
force (applied by the driver at the steering wheel),
for a much smaller amount of movement with a
greatly increased force through a cam and lever
action type steering gear. The steering gear ratio
is 17.9 to 1 on vehicles equipped with the F 4 engine
and 19 to 1 with the V6 engine.
0-3. Steering Linkage
Refer to Fig. O - l .
The steering linkage consists of a steering arm attached to the steering gear, a steering connecting
rod, (drag link), connecting the steering arm to the
beilcrank, and a steering tie rod connecting the
beilcrank to the axle tie rod. The beilcrank pivots
on a pin mounted just to the left of the frame front
crossmember. The steering tie rod is connected to
the beilcrank and extends to the right ball joint as-
sembly of tie rod. The tie rod extends to the wheels,
being connected to their respective steering knuckle
arms at the wheels. With this linkage arrangement,
as the steering arm moves rearward, the front
wheels turn to the left. As the steering arm moves
forward, the wheels turn to the right.
Ball joints are used to secure the drag link, steering
connecting rod and tie rod ends. The ball joints
assist in maintaining good steering control and constant toe-in of the front wheels under all driving
conditions. If the ball joints become worn enough
to allow free motion in the linkage, they should be,
replaced.
Note: Ball joint replacement of the tie rod requires
resetting of the wheel toe-in adjustment.
0-4.
S t e e r i n g C o l u m n and Gear A l i g n m e n t
When adjusting a steering gear remove all loads
from the unit by disconnecting the steering connecting rod (drag link) from the steering arm and
also loosen the instrument panel bracket and the
steering gear to frame bolts to allow the steering
post to correctly align itself. When retightening the
steering gear to frame bolts use a torque wrench
pull of 45 to 55 lb-ft. [6,2 a 7,6 kg-m.] on the
Vk* bolts and 30 to 40 lb-ft. [4,15 a 5,5 kg-m.] on
the Vs" bolts.
10811
FIG. 0-2—STEERING GEAR
1—Nut
2 —Lockwasher
3— Steering Gear A r m
4— Lever Shaft Oil Seal
5— Outer Housing Bushing
6— Inner Housing Bushing
7—Filler Plug
8—Cover and Tube
9—B a l l Retaining Ring
10—Cup
314
11—Ball (Steel)
12—Tube and C a m
13—Shims
14—Upper Cover
15—Lockwasher
16—Bolt
17—Steering Wheel
18—Horn Button Retainer
19—Horn Button
20—Horn Button Cap
21—Nut
2 2 —Spring
23—Spring Seat
24—Bearing
25— Horn Cable
26—Horn Button Spring
27— Spring Cup
28— Steering Column
29—Oil Hole Cover
30— Clamp
31— Adjusting Screw
32—Nut
33— Bolt
34—Side Cover
35— Gasket
36— Shaft and Lever
37—Housing
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
N o t e : If the steering-gear-to-frame bolts are not
properly torqued, they will eventually loosen during operation of the vehicle. Loose bolts will result
in elongated bolt holes making maintenance of
bolt torque difficult, and may allow position of the
steering columns to be misaligned. Therefore,
proper torquing is extremely important.
Do not tighten the steering gear to dampen out
steering trouble. Adjust the steering gear only to
remove lost motion or play within the unit.
0 - 5 . Steering Gear Adjustment
The cam and lever steering gear is illustrated in
Fig. 0-2. It consists of a spiral cam, and a cross
shaft and lever assembly with two lever studs.
When the steering wheel is turned, the cam moves
the studs, causing rotary movement of the cross
shaft, which in turn causes angular movement of
the*steering arm.
Two adjustments of the steering gear are necessary:
up and down play of the steering shaft, and adjustment of the lever studs (tapered pins) in the
cam groove.
Adjustment of the ball thrust bearings to eliminate
up and down play of the steering shaft is accomplished by removing shims which are installed
between the steering gear housing and the upper
cover. Before making this adjustment loosen the
housing side cover adjusting screw to free the pins
in the cam groove. Loosen the housing cover to
cut and remove a shim or more as required. Install
the screws and tighten. Adjustment should be
made to have a slight drag but allow the steering
wheel to turn freely with thumb and forefinger
lightly gripping the rim.
Shims installed for adjustment are .002*, .003", and
.010" [.0508, .0762 and .254 mm.] in thickness.
Adjustment of the tapered pins in the cam groove
is accomplished by adjusting screw. Unlock the
adjusting screw and turn it in until a very slight
drag is felt through the mid-position when turning
the steering wheel slowly from one extreme position
to the other.
Backlash of the pins in the groove shows up as
end play of lever shaft, also as backlash of steering arm.
The cam groove is purposely cut shallow in the
straight ahead driving position for each pin. This
feature permits a close adjustment for normal
straight ahead driving and provides precision steering and permits take up of backlash at this point
after the wear occurs without causing a bind elsewhere. Always adjust within the high range through
the mid-position of pin travel. Do not adjust off
"straight ahead" position. Backlash in turned positions is not objectionable.
0-6.
Front W h e e l A l i g n m e n t A d j u s t m e n t s
To ensure correct alignment, a definite procedure
for inspection of the steering system is recommended. It is suggested that the following sequence
be used:
a. Equalize tire pressures and level vehicle.
O
b. Check steering gear to steering column alignment.
c. Inspect steering knuckle pivots, spindle, and
wheel bearing looseness.
d . Check wheel runout.
e. Test wheel balance and bearing adjustment.
f. Check for spring sag.
g. Inspect brakes and shock absorbers.
h. Check steering gear assembly adjustment and
steering connecting rod.
i. Check caster,
j . Check toe-in.
k. Check toe-out on turns.
I. Check camber.
m . Check tracking of front and rear wheels,
n . Check frame alignment.
The factors of alignment, caster, camber, and toein, are all interrelated and if one adjustment is
made, another adjustment may be affected. Therefore, after an alignment job is completed, make a
complete recheck of all the adjustments to be sure
the settings are within the limit. Be sure all front
suspension and steering system nuts and bolts are
all properly torqued before taking wheel alignment
readings.
Proper alignment of front wheels must be maintained in order to ensure ease of steering and satisfactory tire life.
The most important factors of front wheel alignment are wheel camber, axle caster and wheel
toe-in.
Wheel toe-in is the distance the wheels are closer
together at the front than at the rear.
Wheel camber is the amount the wheels incline outward at the top from a vertical position.
Front axle caster is the amount in degrees that the
steering pivot pins are tilted towards the front or
rear of the vehicle. Positive caster is inclination of
the top of the pivot pin towards the rear of the vehicle. Zero caster is the vertical position of the
pivot pin. Negative or reverse caster is the inclination of the top of the pin towards the front
of the vehicle.
These points should be checked at regular intervals, particularly when the front axle has been
subjected to a heavy impact. When checking wheel
alignment, it is important that wheel bearings and
knuckle bearings be in proper adjustment. Loose
bearings will affect instrument readings when
checking the camber, pivot pin inclination and
toe-in.
To accurately check camber and caster, use a wheel
aligning fixture. Camber and caster of the front
wheels are both preset. Camber cannot be altered
but caster can be adjusted by installing caster shims
between the axle pad and the springs. Wheel toe-in
may be adjusted. To measure wheel toe-in, use a
wheel aligning fixture or follow the procedure given
in Par. 0-8.
0-7. Front Wheel Toe-in
Toe-in as illustrated in Fig. 0-3, is necessary to offset the effect of camber as shown in Fig. Q-4.
315
o
STEERING
SYSTEM
11894FIG.
0-3—FRONT
WHEEL
TOE-IN
1— Toe-in Angle
2— Vertical Line
In the absence of a wheel aligning fixture, toe-in
may be set by measuring between the front wheels
at the edge of the rim, at the flange or at the tire
tread center. When making this adjustment the
wheels must be in a straight ahead position.
It is highly important that toe-in be checked regularly and if found to be out of adjustment, correction should be made immediately.
The correct toe-in of these models is found in the
specifications at the end of this section.
0-8. Toe-in Adjustment
The toe-in may be adjusted with a line or straight
edge as the vehicle tread is the same in front and
rear. To set the adjustment both tie rods must be
adjusted as outlined below:
Set the tie rod end of the steering bell-crank at
right angles with the front axle. Place a straight
edge or line against the left rear wheel and left
front wheel to determine if the wheel is in a straight
ahead position. I f the front wheel tire does not
touch the straight edge at both the front and rear,
it will be necessary to adjust the left tie rod by
loosening the clamps on each end and turning the
rod until the tire touches the straight edge.
Check the right hand side in the same manner, adjusting the tie rod if necessary, making sure that
the bell-crank remains at right angles to the axle.
When it is determined that the front wheels are in
the straight ahead position, set the toe-in by shortening each tie rod approximately one-half turn.
0 - 9 . Front Wheel Camber
The purpose of camber Fig. 0-4, is to more nearly
place the weight of the vehicle over the tire contact on the road to facilitate ease of steering.
The result of excessive camber is irregular wear of
tires on outside shoulders and is usually caused by
bent axle parts.
The result of negative or reverse camber, if excessive, will be hard steering and possibly a wandering condition. Tires will also wear on inside
shoulders. Negative camber is usually caused by
excessive wear or looseness of front wheel bearings,
axle parts or the result of a sagging axle.
Unequal camber may cause any or a combination
of the following conditions: unstable steering, wan316
FIG.
1—Vertical Line
0-4—WHEEL CAMBER
2—Camber Angle
dering, kick-back or road shock, shimmy or excessive tire wear. The cause of unequal camber is usually a bent steering knuckle or axle end.
Correct wheel camber is set in the axle at the time
of manufacture and cannot be altered by any adjustment. I t is important that the camber be the
same on both front wheels. Heating of any of these
parts to facilitate straightening usually destroys
the heat treatment given them at the factory. Cold
bending may cause a fracture of the steel and is also
unsafe. Replacement with new parts is recommended rather than any straightening of damaged
parts.
O-10. Axle Caster
Caster angle is established in the axle design by
tilting the top of the kingpin toward the rear and
the bottom of the kingpin forward so that an
imaginary line through the center of the kingpin
would strike the ground at a point ahead of the
point of tire contact.
FIG.
0-5—AXLE CASTER
1—Vertical Line
2— Caster Angle
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L
SERIES SERVICE MANUAL
The purpose of caster Fig. O-S, is to provide steering stability which will keep the front wheels in the
straight ahead position and also assist in straightening up the wheels when coming out of a turn.
Caster of the front wheels is preset. If the angle of
caster, when accurately measured, is found to be
incorrect, correct it to the specification given at
the end of this section by either installing new
parts or installing caster shims between the axle
pad and the springs.
If the camber and toe-in are correct and it is known
the the axle is not twisted, a satisfactory check
may be made by testing the vehicle on the road.
Before road testing, make sure all tires are properly
inflated, being particularly careful that both front
tires are inflated to exactly the same pressure.
If vehicle turns easily to either side but is hard to
straighten out, insufficient caster for easy handling
of vehicle is indicated. If correction is necessary, it
can usually be accomplished by installing shims
between the springs and axle pads to secure the
desired result.
0-11- Front Wheel T u r n i n g Angle
When the front wheels are turned, the inside wheel
on the turn travels in a smaller circle than the outside wheel, therefore, it is necessary for the wheels
to toe out to prevent the tire on the inside wheel
frOm being scuffed sideways. This angle for toe out
on turns is designed to permit both front wheels to
turn on a common center by having the ends of the
steering knuckle arms closer together than the kingpins.
To avoid possible damage to the universal joints
on the front axles of 4-wheel drive vehicles, it is
advisable to check the turning angle. Wearing away
of the upset edge on the spindle housing bolt which
10607
F I G . 0 - 6 — T U R N I N G A N G L E STOP
1—Stop Screw
SCREW
contacts the stop screw will increase the turning
angle to the point where the universal joints may
be damaged.
The Jeep Universal Series vehicles should have a
turning angle of not more than 2 7 ^ ° both left and
right. To adjust the stop screw, it is necessary to
loosen the locknut holding the stop screw. When
the adjustment has been made, tighten the locknut
on the screw to prevent any movement. Refer to
Fig. O 6.
The left steering knuckle arm controls the relationship of the front wheels on a left turn and the right
arm controls the relation on a right turn.
0-12. Steering Knuckle A r m
Should a steering knuckle arm become bent, the
knuckle housing must be replaced. I t is not safe to
straighten the knuckle arm.
0-13. Front Wheel S h i m m y
Wheel shimmy may be caused by various conditions in the wheels, axle or steering system, or a
combination of these conditions. Outlined below
will be found the usual corrections of this fault:
a. Equalize tire pressures and see that they are
according to specifications.
b. Check the wheel bearings for looseness. Be sure
that the inner wheel bearing race is not too loose
on the spindle.
c. Remove both steering knuckles and carefully
inspect the upper and lower king pin bearings.
Inspect the bearing cups for evidence of brinelling,
pitting, or fretting. Any bearings that show the
slightest imperfection must be replaced. Reassemble
and lubricate the front axle and steering linkage,
installing new steering knuckle oil seals if present
seals show any wear.
d. With full weight on the front wheels and one
man working the steering play with the steering
wheel, a second man should closely observe the
steering bell crank for any rocking motion and the
double tie rod socket for any rocking motion or
looseness at both points. Replace the complete bell
crank assembly if it has even the slightest rocking
motion. The same applies to the double tie rod
socket.
e. Check wheel run-out. This check should include
radial run-out and wheel looseness on the hub.
f- Test wheel balance—check for blowout patches,
uniform tire tread, vulcanized tires, mud on inside
of wheels, and tires creeping on the rims.
g. Try switching front wheels and tires to the rear,
criss-crossing them in this operation.
h. Check for front spring sag. Also check for broken
spring leaves, broken center spring bolt, loose spring
clips (or tight clips), over-lubrication of spring
leaves, spring shackle bracket loose on frame, and
loose rear spring shackle. Be sure that the shock
absorbers are operating properly to eliminate bobbing of the front end.
i. Check brakes to make sure that one does not
drag.
j . Check the steering assembly and steering connecting rod. This includes the up-and-down-play
of the steering worm shaft, end play of the cross
317
o
STEERING SYSTEM
10
10696
F I G . 0 - 7 — S T E E R I N G C O N N E C T I N G ROD (DRAG L I N K )
1—Cotter Pin
2>—Large Plug
3— Ball Seat
4 — Ball Seat Spring
5—Spring Plug
6—-Dust Cover
7— Dust Shield
8— Small Adjusting Plug
9—Lubrication Fitting
10—Connecting Rod
shaft, tightness of the steering gear in the frame,
tightness of steering gear arm, adjustment of the
steering connecting rod and condition of the steering tie rod ball joint ends. Adjust the steering connecting rod (drag link) to maximum safe tightness
at both ends. Examine the steering beilcrank
bearings, the shaft in the mounting bracket, and
the mounting bracket on the frame cross member,
k. Check front axle caster. This should be the same
on both sides, otherwise a locking brake may be
indicated causing a twisting action of the axle.
Correct caster is shown in specifications at the end
of this section.
I. Check the front wheel toe-in. See Specifications,
m . Check wheel toe-out on turns. This gives you
an indication of the proper angularity of the steering knuckle arms and tells whether or not they
have been bent and require replacing. These may
be checked by comparing them with new parts. If
an arm is bent, check for a bent tie rod.
n. Check wheel camber. This should be the same
on both wheels as shown on the Specifications,
o . Check the king pin inclination. See Specifications.
p. Check the tracking of the front axle and frame
alignment, which may be incorrect due to an
accident.
identical, the only difference between front and
rear end being the relative location of the springs.
The correct assembly of the steering connecting
rod is shown in Fig. 0-7. At the front or axle end,
the spring and spacer are assembled between the
rod and ball seat, while at the steering gear end,
spring and spacer are between the ball seat and the
end plug. In the illustration the front end is to the
left.
When removing springs and seats for any reason,
make sure they are reassembled as shown in the
illustration because this method of assembly relieves road shock from the steering gear in both directions. T o adjust the ball joint, screw in the plug
firmly against the ball, approximately 20 ft. lb.
[2,8 kg-m.] then back off one quarter turn and lock
with a new cotter pin inserted through holes in the
tube and the slot in the adjusting plug. To adjust
the ball joint at the steering gear arm, screw in the
end plug firmly against the ball, then back off one
full turn and lock with a new cotter pin inserted
through holes in the tube and the slot in the adjusting plug.
The above adjustments will give the proper spring
tension and avoid any tightness when swinging
the wheel from maximum left to right turn.
The ball joints must be tight enough to prevent end
play and yet loose enough to allow free movement.
0-14. S T E E R I N G L I N K A G E
0-16. T i e R o d
The tie rods are of three piece construction consisting of the rod and two ball and socket end assemblies. Ball and socket end assemblies are
threaded into each rod and locked with clamps,
around each end of the rod. Right and left hand
threads on tie rod end assemblies provide toe-in
adjustments without removing the tie rod ends from
the steering arm.
'Jeep' Universal models are equipped with a
divided tie rod connected to a bell-crank mounted
on the frame cross member. With this type construction the toe-in of each wheel is adjusted independently. See heading "Toe-in adjustment".
When wear takes place in the tie rod end ball and
socket, it will be necessary to replace the ball and
socket assembly and also the rubber seal.
SERVICE
The steering linkage must maintain constant toein and good steering control under all driving
conditions. This requires ball joints at each end
of the tie rods and steering connecting rod. All
joints in the steering linkage must be kept well
lubricated for easy operation and long life. Should
the joints be worn, allowing excessive free motion
in the linkage, the joints must be replaced. Whenever ball joints are replaced, toe-in must be reset.
Because some members of the steering system may
have become bent or distorted, a periodic inspection
should be made.
0-15.
Steering Connecting Rod (Drag Link)
The steering connecting rod is of the ball and socket
type. All ball seat springs and adjusting plugs are
318
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L SERIES S E R V I C E M A N U A L
D
©— 3
P
10789
FIG.
1— Cotter Pin
2— Nut
3— Dust Cover
4— Left Socket
5 — Nut
0-17.
0-8—STEERING T I E ROD
6—Lockwasher
7—Left Tie Rod
8—Lubrication Fitting
9—Left Socket (For Right Tie Rod)
10—Right Tie Rod
Tie Rod Removal
First disconnect and remove the steering tie rod
from the bellcrank. Refer to Fig. O - l . The tie
rod can then be removed by removing the cotter
pins and nuts at the ends. To remove the tie rod
from the steering knuckle arms, use a puller or
expansion fork. Then separate the joint seals and
fittings, i f necessary. The tie rod sockets can be
removed by loosening the nuts on the clamp bolts
and unscrewing the sockets from the tie rod tubes.
Refer to Fig. 0-8. When installing the components
of the steering linkage, new seals should be i n stalled as necessary. A l l nuts should be torqued 38
to 42 lb-ft. {5,2 a 5,8 kg-m.], and new cotter pins
installed. I f the bellcrank was removed, the steering bellcrank nut should be torqued 70 to 90 lb-ft.
[9,7 a 12,4 kg-m.].
0-18.
Steering B e l l c r a n k Service
Refer to Fig. 0-9.
The assembly and adjustment of this unit is extremely important; the information outlined below
must be followed carefully whenever servicing the
bellcrank assembly on late model vehicles.
11— Right Socket
12— Bolt
13— Tie Rod Clamp
A service k i t Part No. 991381 containing the bellcrank shaft, bearings, seals, bolt, nuts, and washer is
available for servicing this assembly. Be certain
that all parts are installed in their proper position.
When assembling the parts, be sure the new bearings in the bellcrank are positioned Y%" [3,175 mm.]
below the surface of the bellcrank face as shown.
The bearings have a light press" fit that will hold
them i n place after locating them i n the proper
position. Finally, when installing washers, the
chamfer on the washer must be installed toward
the bellcrank.
After completing the assembly, and before attaching the connecting rods to the bellcrank levers,
make your final adjustment to the assembly as
follows:
a . W i t h the W [11,113 mm.] diameter clamp bolt
loosened, adjust the locknut on the end of the bellcrank shaft until the bellcrank just rotates freely
without a bind.
N o t e : On early model vehicles using bellcrank k i t
Part No. 920556, torque the bellcrank shaft nut
(Fig. O - l # 1 4 ) 70 - 90 lb-ft. [9,7 a 12,4 kg-m.].
319
STEERING SYSTEM
FIG. 0-9—STEERING
BELLCRANK ASSEMBLY
5
1— s'-18 Stollock Lockout
2— Plain Washer
3— us"-20 2 l ' B o l t
4 — 1« *-20 Stollock Locknut
5 — Beilcrank Support
6— Special Ground Washer
7— Seal
8— Bearing
9— Beilcrank
10— Beilcrank Shaft
1 1 — Seals
12— Bearings
13— } *
7
x
2
7
s
b. Torque the Vfc" [11,113 mm.] diameter elamp
bolt to 50-70 lb-ft. [6,9 a 9,7 kg-m.].
c . Assemble the tie rod to the beilcrank lever,
making sure to tighten the nut to the proper
torque value of 38 to 45 lb-ft. [5,2 a 6,2 kg-m.].
d. Connect the drag link to the beilcrank arm,
adjust the ball joint by screwing in the plug
firmly against the ball, approximately 20 lb-ft.
[2,8 kg-m.], then back off one quarter turn and lock
with a new cotter pin.
b. Remove steering shaft nut.
c . Remove steering wheel and spring.
0 - 1 9 . Beilcrank Support B r a c k e t
Rivet Replacement
The procedure for replacing a rivet with a bolt
is as follows:
a . Drill a
[4,76 mm.] pilot hole up through
the front rivet.
b. Enlarge the
[4,76 mm.] hole with a % "
[8,73 mm.] drill.
c . Chisel off the bottom rivet head and drive the
remainder of the rivet upward and out, using
a punch and hammer.
d . Install a %" [9,53 mm.] bolt and lock nut,
torque to 30-45 lb-ft. [4,1 a 6,2 kg-m] and stake
the nut.
e. Clamp a metal plate to the frame to protect
the radiator, then drill and remove the remaining
two rivets, install bolts, lock nuts and torque as
specified.
0 - 2 3 . R e m o v a l of S t e e r i n g G e a r
O-20. S T E E R I N G C O L U M N AND
WHEEL
SERVICE
Jeep Universal Series vehicles use a one-piece steering shaft that is integral with the steering gear
assembly, as shown in Fig. 0-2. Alignment instructions in paragraph 0-4 apply.
0 - 2 1 . Steering W h e e l R e m o v a l
• Refer to Fig. 0-2.
a . Carefully pry the rubber horn cap from the
housing slot.
320
0-22. STEERING GEAR
SERVICE
N o t e : The steering gear can be adjusted when the
gear is mounted in the vehicle by first disconnecting
the drag link from the steering arm. Refer to Par.
Q-5.
• F4-Engine.
a . Remove the directional signal unit from the
steering column.
b. Remove the steering column bracket attached
at the instrument panel.
c . Remove upper section of the floor pan.
d . Disconnect shift rods from the shift levers at
lower end of the steering column if applicable.
e. Disconnect the horn wire at lower end of steering gear assembly.
f. Remove steering gear arm from the steering
gear assembly.
g. Remove bolts attaching the steering gear housing to the frame.
h. Remove the steering gear assembly by bringing
it up through the floor pan opening.
• V6 Engine.
a . Remove oil pan skid plate.
b. Remove left exhaust pipe.
c . Disconnect connecting rod (drag link) from
steering gear arm.
d . Disconnect steering gear assembly from frame.
e. Remove steering wheel from steering column.
f. Disconnect accelerator linkage.
g. Remove upper floor pan assembly.
h. Disconnect directional signal switch.
i. Jack-up vehicle, and remove steering gear and
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
column assembly down through the floor pan opening and out from under vehicle.
0-24.
Disassembly of Steering Gear
Refer to Fig. 0-2.
When the steering gear arm is installed on early
production vehicles, the line across the face of the
arm and the end of the shaft should be in alignment. On later production vehicles, blind splines
on the lever shaft and in the steering gear arm ensure correct positioning of the arm.
a. Remove the steering gear arm with a puller
C-3646.
C a u t i o n : Do not use a hammer or wedge to remove the steering arm from the shaft and lever.
This can cause damage to the shaft assembly.
b. Loosen the lock nut and unscrew the adjusting
screw two turns.
c. Remove the side cover screws and washers. Remove the side cover and gasket.
d. Remove lever shaft.
e. Remove upper cover plate screws. Remove cam,
wheel tube, and bearing assembly from the housing.
f. Clean all parts with suitable cleaning solvent and
wipe dry.
g . After dismantling as outlined above is completed, inspect cam grooves for wear, chipping and
scoring, also the ball races on the cam ends and the
separate ball cups. Existence of any of these conditions indicates the necessity for parts replacement.
h. Inspect the tapered stud mounted on the lever
shaft for flat spots and chipping. I n the case of
either, replacement is usually advisable. Inspect the
lever shaft for wear and test the fit of the shaft in
the bushings.
i. Inspect condition of the oil seal at outer end of
lever shaft and the bearing at top end of steering
column.
N o t e : New plastic retainer type cam bearings are
now available for the Ross steering gears. The new
bearings replace, and are interchangeable with,
the lock ring type cam bearings on gears equipped
with early type cams.
With adjusting shims in place, assemble upper
cover and adjust the cam bearings.
Assemble lever shaft in housing and with gasket
in place assemble the side cover and set adjusting
screw for a minimum backlash of the studs in the
cam groove, with the steering gear at the center
point of travel.
When assembling upper bearing spring and spring
seat in jacket tube make sure that the spring seat
is positioned correctly. It must be installed with
the lengthwise flange down against the bearing and
not up inside of spring coil.
0-26.
Reassembly of Steering Gear
e Refer to Fig. 0-2.
Reassemble all parts to wheel tube in reverse order
of dismantling. Assemble cam, wheel tube and
bearing assembly in housing, seating the lower
bearing ball cup in the housing.
Installation of Steering Gear
a. After the gear has been properly adjusted, as
outlined in Par. 0-5, install steering gear assembly
in chassis in the reverse order in which it was removed.
b. After installing the assembly in the vehicle,
jack up front of vehicle and place the front wheels
in the straight ahead position.
c. Temporarily install the steering wheel to locate
the mid-position of the steering gear. To locate the
mid-position, turn the steering wheel as far to the
right as possible and then turn in the opposite direction as far as possible, noting the total number
of turns. Turn the wheel back just ^ of the total
movement to place the gear in mid-position.
d. With the steering gear in mid-position and the
wheels in the straight ahead position install steering gear arm on lever shaft with the ball end down.
When installed the line across the face of the arm
and end of shaft should be in alignment.
0-27.
0-25.
O
Steering Wheel Installation
• Refer to Fig. 0-2.
a. Install steering wheel and spring on shaft.
Align scribe marks on shaft and hub of wheel.
b. Install steering shaft nut and torque 20 to 25
lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].
c. Install horn cap. Test horn.
321
o
STEERING SYSTEM
0-28. S B K F 1 C E D I A G N O S I S
SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE REMEDY
Hard Steering
Lack of Lubrication
Tie Rod Ends Worn.
Connecting Rod Ball Joints Tight.
Cross Shaft Improperly Adjusted
Steering Gear Parts W o r n . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Lubricate all Connections
Replace
Adjust
Adjust
Replace
S t e e r i n g Loose
Tie Rod Ends Worn
Connecting Rod Ball Sockets Worn
Steering Gear Parts Worn.
Steering Gear Improperly Adjusted.
Replace
Replace
Replace
Adjust
......
Road Shook;
Steering Connecting Rod too Tight; Axle Spring Clip
Loose; Wheel Bearings Loose; Poor Shock Absorber
Control,
Turning Radius
Short One Side
Center Bolt i n Spring Sheered Off, Axle Shifted,
Steering A r m Bent, Steering A r m not Properly Located
on Steering Gear.
0-29. S T E E R I N G S P E C I F I C A T I O N S
STEERING GEAR:
Make.
Type
Ratio..
Bearings:
Cam-Upper
Cam-Lower
Lever Shaft
Steering Column-Upper
Lever Shaft:
Clearance to Bushing
E n d Play
L a s h at C a m
(Straight Ahead)
Wheel Diameter.
Wheel T u r n s .
STEERING GEOMETRY:
K i n g P i n Inclination
Toe-In.
Camber
Caster
Turning Angle:
D J , C J Models
Turning Radius with 2 7 ^ ° Angle:
CJ-3B, CJ-5, CJ-5A.
CJ-6, CJ-6A
Outside Wheel Angle with
Inside Wheel at 20°:
322
F4 E N G I N E
V6 E N G I N E
Ross
C a m and Lever
17.9 to 1
Ross
C a m and Lever
19 to 1
Ball
Ball
Bushing
Ball
Ball
Ball
Bushing
Ball
.0005" to .0025" [0,0127 a 0,0635 mm.j
.000'
.0005* to .0025" [0,0127 a 0,0635 mm.]
.000"
Slight D r a g
17M* (438 mm.]
2.58
Slight Drag
17M* [438 mm.]
2.58
W
to
W
m°
U,2 a 2,3 mm.]
1° 30'
3°
W
to
W
I 72
[1,2 a 2,3 mm.]
1° 30'
3°
27K°
273^°
17' 6" [5,3 mm.]
22' 10" [7,0 mm.]
17' 6" [5,3 mm.]
22' 10" [7,0 mm.]
20°
20°
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
P
BRAKES
SUBJECT
SUBJECT
PAR
GENERAL. .
Brake Maintenance
Master Cylinder.
Parking Brake
Transmission Brake
P-l
P-5
P-2
P-3
P-4
BRAKE SERVICE
Bleeding Brakes
Brake Adjustments
Brake Hoses
Brake Shoe Initial Adjustment
Brake Shoe Installation
Brake Pedal Adjustment
Hand Brake.
Inspection
.P-6
P-7
P-14
P-8
P-l9
P-l8
P-9
P-10
P-17
P-1. G E N E R A L
A double-safety hydraulic brake system in conjunction with self-adjusting wheel brake units are
standard equipment on all current production
'Jeep* vehicles. The double-safety brake system
Is equipped with dual stop light switches that operate independently of each other, thus eliminating
possible stop light failure. Service information for
self adjusting brakes starts with Par. P-14.
All four-wheel-drive vehicles are equipped with a
transmission brake that operates in the drive line
and is mounted to the rear of the transfer case.
PAR
Brake Shoe Removal
Master Cylinder Reconditioned.
Parking Brake Adjustment
Relining Transmission Brake
Relining Wheel Brake
Transmission Brake Adjustment
Wheel Brake Units
Wheel Cylinder Reconditioning
P-l6
. P-20
.P-l 1
P-13
P-l5
.P-12
P-14
P-21
TROUBLESHOOTING
Squeaky Brakes
Rattles in Brakes
S E R V I C E DIAGNOSIS.
P-2 2
P-23
P-24
P-25
SPECIFICATIONS
P-2 6
Two-wheel-drive vehicles (DJ-5, DJ-6) are equipped
with a hand-operated parking brake that operates
at the rear wheels.
P-2.
Master Cylinder —
Double Safety-Brake System
The master cylinder (cast integrally with the reservoir) is the compensating type. Refer to Fig.
P-2 and P-13.
Action by the brake pedal moves the master cylinder piston which exerts pressure on the fluid in
the cylinder and lines.
12914
FIG.
P-l—DOUBLE
SAFETY BRAKE SYSTEM — LATE
1—Stop Light Switch and Tee ( F r o a t )
2—Line Tee (Front)
3— Master Cylinder (Dual System
4—Brake Pedal Assembly
5—Brake Hose
6—Line Tee (Rear)
MODELS
7—Wheel Cylinder (Left Rear)
8—Proportioning Valve (Early Models)
9——Stop Light Switch and Tee (Rear)
10—Wheel Cylinder (Left Front)
11—Front Brake Hoses
323
p
BRAKES
13264
FIG- P - 2 — D O U B L E SAFETY BRAKE
MASTER CYLINDER
W i t h the Double-Safety brake system type master
cylinder, failure i n one part of the brake system
does not result i n failure of the entire hydraulic
brake system. Failure i n the front brake system w i l l
leave the rear brake system still operative or failure
in the rear system w i l l leave the front brake system
operative.
A double hydraulic cylinder w i t h two outlets, two
residual check valves, two fluid reservoirs, and
two hydraulic pistons (a primary and secondary)
are operated i n tandem by a single hydraulic push
rod. The primary outlet is connected to the front
brakes w i t h the secondary outlet connected to the
rear brakes.
W i t h the master cylinder fluid reservoirs filled and
the front and rear brake system bled, there is a solid
column of fluid on the forward side of both the
primary and the secondary pistons.
Upon application of the brakes, through movement
of the brake pedal, fluid is displaced by the pistons
into the wheel cylinders to activate both front and
rear brakes. Upon release of the brakes, fluid returns from the rear wheel cylinders through the
secondary residual check valve to the secondary
portion of the master cylinder bore. Fluid also
returns from the front wheel cylinders through the
primary residual check valve to the primary
portion of the master cylinder bore.
P-3. Parking Brakes — D J - 5 , DJ-6
a. The parking brake is operated by a T-handle
lever mounted to the left of the steering column
and suspended from the instrument panel. When
the brake lever is pulled outward, tension is exerted
on the parking brake cable leading to the brake.
The amount of brake grip depends on the number
of notches the lever is pulled out. To set the parking brake, pull out on the parking brake control
T-handle. To release the brake, t u r n the handle
slightly and push i t forward.
0
F I G . P-3—PARKING B R A K E L I N K A G E — DJ-5, DJ-6
1— Cable and Conduit (Front)
2— Clip
3 — Grommet
4 —Hand Brake Handle Assembly
5— Cable and Conduit (Rear)
6—Retracting Spring
324
7—Retracting Spring Link
8—Nut
9—Nut
10—Equalizer
11—Adjusting R o d
12—Hand Brake Lever
13—Brake Lever Bracket
14—Clevis Pin
15—Cotter P i n
16—Clevis Pin
17—Cotter Pin
P
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
The standard parking brakes (Fig. P-3) consist of
cable-controlled linkage for applying the rear wheel
brake shoes mechanically. A single cable from the
parking brake control lever is connected, by means
of an equalizer, to cables leading to individual rear
brakes. A lever attached to the secondary shoe,
with a link acting against the primary shoe, expands
the shoes into contact with the drums.
P-4. T r a n s m i s s i o n B r a k e
The transmission brake is mechanically operated
by a hand lever through a cable and conduit and is
mounted at the rear output bearing housing on the
transfer case. The transmission brake and its
linkage are shown in Fig. P-4.
P-5. B r a k e M a i n t e n a n c e
No brake can be expected to work well when grease
or oil is allowed to leak into the drum from the rear
axle. Little braking friction can be obtained
between brakes and drums when the surface is
covered with grease and oil. For this reason, take
care not to over-lubricate wheel bearings, forcing
lubricant past seals. Also, check condition of seals
if leak is suspected or whenever brake drums
are pulled.
Whenever wheels are removed, it is advisable to
wash the drums with a suitable solvent so that all
grease and dirt are removed. Linings with any
evidence of grease or oil on them should be replaced.
The hydraulic system should be kept free of dirt
and moisture.
Use only S A E standard J-1703 Hydraulic Brake
Fluid.
C a u t i o n : Keep mineral oils, gasoline, or kerosene
out of the system as they cause rubber cups to
soften, swell, and distort, resulting in failure.
P-6. Brake Service
To service the brakes, follow the procedure below:
a. Check the fluid level in the brake master cylinder. See Lubrication Section, Par. B-40.
b. Check brake pedal adjustment. See Par. P-9.
c. Check brake pedal travel. I f the pedal travels
more than halfway to the floor, the brake system
must be checked and the self adjusting star wheel
mechanisms checked for binding, also the brake
linings should be inspected as they may be badly
worn. How much lining is left can only be determined by visually inspecting the linings. See Par.
P-l6 for relining brakes.
d. If the brakes pull to one side after adjustment,
check tire pressures. All tires must be inflated to
recommended pressures to ensure even braking. I f
the condition persists, examine the brake linings
for foreign material and clean as necessary. I f cleaning does not correct the condition the linings should
be replaced. If the side pull persists, check front
wheel alignment and balance.
e. Check the brake system for leaks by applying a
steady pressure on the brake pedal. A leak in the
system will allow the pedal to "fall away". If the
pedal "falls away" check for a leaking wheel cylinder. Remove wheels and drums and carefully check
each cylinder. Also examine all lines and fittings.
Rebuild or replace all wheel cylinders (Par. P-21)
if one is defective as they are all probably in poor
condition. I f the leak has allowed brake fluid to get
on the linings, the linings will have to be replaced.
f. A "spongy" brake pedal indicates the pressure
of air in the hydraulic system. This condition must
be corrected by bleeding the brakes. See Par. P-7.
g. Should the brakes become locked so that the
vehicle cannot be moved, the brakes may be released by opening the bleeder screw on any one of
the wheel cylinders. Before the vehicle is driven,
correct the cause of the condition. The cause may
3
14
15 16
17
18
4
10796
FIG. P-4—TRANSMISSION
1—Cable and Conduit
2—Hand Brake Clip
3— Hand Brake Bracket
4—Hand Brake Handle Assembly
5—Rear Cap
6—Drive Gear Bushing
7—Driven Gear
8—Driven Gear Sleeve
9—Backing Plate
10—Shoe and Lining
11—Lever E n d Return Spring
12—Brake Drum
13—Bolt
14—Rear Companion Flange
15— Washer
16— Nut
BRAKE
17— Propeller Shaft Flange Yoke
18—Rear Propeller Shaft
19—Adjusting E n d Spring
20—Adjusting Screw Bracket
21—Operating Lever
22—Clevis
23—Retracting Spring Clip
24—Retracting Spring L i n k
325
p
BRAKES
be either a defective master cylinder or the use of
low grade brake fluid which has expanded because
of heat. Use standard duty brake fluid conforming
to SAE-J1703 specification.
P-7. Bleeding Brakes
The hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever
a fluid line has been disconnected or air gets into
the system. A leak in the system may sometimes
be indicated by the presence of a spongy brake
pedal. Air trapped in the system is compressible
and does not permit the pressure, applied to the
brake pedal, to be transmitted solidly through to
the brakes. The system must be absolutely free
from air at all times. When bleeding brakes, bleed
at that wheel with the longest line from the master
FIG. P-5—BLEEDING
BRAKES
1—Bleeder Screw
cylinder first, the next longest second, etc. During
the bleeding operation the master cylinder must
be kept at least % full of hydraulic brake fluid.
To bleed the brakes, first carefully clean all dirt
from around the master cylinder filler plug. If
bleeder tank is used follow the manufacturers instructions. Remove the filler plug and fill the master
cylinder to the lower edge of filler neck. Clean off
all bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders.
Attach bleeder hose and fixture to right rear wheel
cylinder bleeder screw and place end of tube in a
glass jar, and submerged in brake fluid. Open the
bleeder valve one-half to three-quarters of a turn.
See Fig. P-5.
Depress the foot pedal, allowing it to return very
slowly. Continue this pumping action to force the
fluid through the line and out of the bleeder hose
which carries with it any air in the system. When
326
bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder
hose, close the bleeder valve and remove the hose.
After the bleeding operation at each wheel cylinder
has been completed, fill the master cylinder reservoir and replace the filler plug.
Do not re-use the liquid which has been removed
from the lines through the bleeding process because
of air bubbles and dirt.
P-8. B r a k e Hoses
a . Hydraulic lines (tubing and hose) are the means
of transmitting fluid under pressure between the
master cylinder and the wheel cylinders.
N o t e : On some vehicles a proportioning valve is
located in the rear brake line along the inside left
frame side rail. The valve is not serviceable and
must be replaced as an assembly.
Should replacement be necessary make certain the
valve is properly positioned with the centerline of
the hex plug (in the bottom of the valve) in the
vertical position. Refer to Fig. P - l .
The hoses are the flexible links between the wheels
or axles and the frame or body. The hoses must
withstand the fluid pressures without expansion
and must be free to flex during spring deflection
and wheel turns without causing damage to the
hose.
b. Hydraulic lines are subject to damage and
deterioration. Hoses should be inspected for cuts,
chafing, cracks, twists and loose frame supports.
Hydraulic tubing should be inspected for signs of
leakage (due to faulty flares or loose connections);
restrictions (due to dents or corrosion); and wear
(due to friction against other metal parts). Always
use correct type and size of wrench on fittings.
Avoid damage to female fittings by supporting fitting with tube nut during removal of assembly.
c. On fittings where gaskets are used, always use
a new gasket. Copper gaskets take a set and may
not form a good seal if reused.
d . When replacing hydraulic brake hose, attach
hose to wheel cylinder and securely tighten hose,
then attach opposite end to frame fitting or tubing.
Avoid twists in hose when assembling to frame
fitting or tubing. Hold hose end securely with
wrench while attaching tubing to hose. I f hose end
clip is used, make certain clip is assembled properly.
Check for interference during spring deflection or
rebound and during front wheel turns.
e. Check for any possible contact between front
brake hose and inner sidewall of tire when the front
wheels are in maximum turn position. Check for
sufficient but not excessive length of hose between
the clamp and the wheels by turning the wheels
from one extreme turn position to the otherl
f. Check that there is no possibility of any contact
between the tail pipe and rear brake hose under
all operating conditions.
P-9. B r a k e Pedal A d j u s t m e n t
There should always be at least W [12,7 mm.]
free pedal travel before the push rod engages the
master cylinder piston.
This adjustment is accomplished by shortening or
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L SERIES SERVICE M A N U A L
lengthening of the brake master cylinder eye bolt.
This is done so the primary cup will clear the bypass port when the piston is in the off position,
otherwise the compensating action of the master
cylinder for expansion and contraction of the fluid
in the system, due to temperature changes, will
be destroyed and cause the brakes to drag.
Note: Some older 'Jeep' vehicles may develop side
movement of the clutch and brake pedals resulting
from wear of the pedals, shafts, and bushings. One
way to compensate for this wear is to install a pedal
slack adjuster kit, Part No. 921936.
P
cate it. Rotate the brake drum until one pair of the
three sets of holes are over the shoe adjusting screw
wheels in the brake. Use the edge of the holes in
the brake drum as a fulcrum for suitable adjusting
tool or a screwdriver, rotate each notched adjusting
screw by moving the handle of the tool away from
the center of the drive shaft until the shoes are
snug in the drum. Back off seven notches on the
adjusting screw wheels to secure proper running
clearance between the shoes and the drum. Refer
to Fig. P-8.
P-13.
Relining Transmission Brake
Note: The condition of the brake lining on the
transmission brake can be visually checked through
the adjusting holes in the brake drum.
F I G . P-6—HAND B R A K E
P-10.
ADJUSTMENT
Hand Brake
On Model DJ-5 and DJ-6 vehicles the rear brake
shoes are operated through cables and conduits to
form the hand or parking brake. A brake cable
equalizer and adjusting rod, Fig. P-6, is located
directly back of the frame center cross member.
P-11.
Parking Brake Adjustment
• Model DJ-5, DJ-6.
The foot brakes must be satisfactorily adjusted before attempting adjustment of the hand brake.
To adjust the hand brake raise both rear wheels
free of the floor. Pull up three notches on the hand
brake lever and tighten the adjustment until the
rear brakes drag slightly. Release the hand brake
lever and check the rear wheels for drag. The
wheels must turn freely with the lever released.
P-12.
Transmission Brake Adjustment
The transmission brake is located on the propeller
shaft at the rear of the transfer case, see Fig. P-4.
The brake is operated by a cable connection from
the brake handle mounted on the instrument panel.
To adjust the transmission brake, the following
sequence should be followed:
Make sure that the brake handle on the instrument
panel is fully released. Give due attention to the
cable and operating linkage to see that they do
not bind. I f necessary free up the cable and lubri-
FIG. P-7—REMOVING TRANSMISSION
BRAKE DRUM
1— Tool W-172
2—Adapter
3—Brake Drum
a . To reline the brake shoes and make a major adjustment, first remove the four universal joint attaching nuts and lower the propeller shaft. Remove
the retracting spring clevis pin and the spring clip.
Remove the hug lock nut, the nut and washer from
the transfer case output shaft. Both the universal
joint companion flange and the brake drum may
be readily removed by using puller Tool No. W-172
which is illustrated in Fig. P-7. Remove the two
brake shoe retracting springs and the shoes.
b. Clean all parts with a suitable cleaning solution
and examine them for damage or wear.
Brake shoes may be distorted by improper lining
installation and the lining should be ground true
after installation on the shoes. For this reason it
is recommended that new or replacement shoe and
lining assemblies be installed.
c. To reassemble, first turn both adjusting screw
wheels away from the center to "all off" position.
Place a light film of grease on the brake actuating
cam and install the shoes. Install the black shoe return spring next to the cam and the yellow spring
next to the notch adjusting wheel screw. Place the
brake drum and universal joint flange in position
and install the transfer case output shaft washer,
nut and hug lock nut.
327
p
BRAKES
PIG. P-8—TRANSMISSION B R A K E
ADJUSTMENT
1— Bail Nut
2— ,6" 12,38 mm.I Clearance
3— Adjusting Screw
s
d . Rotate the drum u n t i l one pair of holes i n the
d r u m are opposite the two adjusting screw wheels
i n the brakes. Use the edge of the holes as a
fulcrum and w i t h a suitable tool or screwdriver for
adjusting, rotate the adjusting screw wheels, moving the handle of the tool away from the drum until
the shoes are snug i n the drum.
e. Examine the brake operating cable to be sure
that i t is not worn or damaged. Free i t up thoroughly and lubricate i t . Make sure the operating handle
on the instrument panel is fully released. Adjust
the clevis on the brake end of the operating cable
u n t i l the clevis pin will just go through the hole
i n the clevis and brake operating lever without
slack i n the cable. Tighten the clevis lock nut.
f. After the cable is connected back off seven
notches on each adjusting screw wheel which will
give the proper running clearance between the
lining and the drum.
g . Reconnect the propeller shaft. Install retracting
spring clip, clevis pin and the cotter pin, also, i n stall the retracting spring link and spring.
h. The position of the brake operating lever, F i g .
P-8, must be correctly set. The position of this
lever is determined by the adjustment of the cam or
brake operating link, which spreads the two shoes.
The operating link is adjusted b y means of the
special ball nut to set the operating lever w i t h
[2,38 mm.] clearance between the closest point
of the lever and the brake backing plate.
i . The position of this lever should be checked when
making a major adjustment or when relining the
brakes and i f found incorrect readjust i t t o give this
clearance before adjusting the brake cable clevis.
P-14.
Self-Adjusting Wheel Brake Units
Self-adjusting brakes are standard equipment on
a l l late production 'Jeep' vehicles.
The wheel brake units consist of a support plate,
two brake shoes, brake shoe return springs, selfadjusting operating parts, and a wheel cylinder.
The automatic adjuster continuously maintains
correct operating clearance between the brake lin328
ings and the drums by adjusting the brakes in small
increments in direct proportion to lining wear. This
continuous adjustment prevents gradual increase
i n the brake pedal travel as the linings wear. The
adjuster, therefore, adds the safety feature of maintaining adequate pedal reserve during the service
life of the lining.
After the lining wears enough to require adjustment, the adjusting cable or link will lift the lever
into engagement w i t h the next tooth of the star
wheel when the brake is applied. When the brake
is released, the shoes return to the anchor. The
self-adjuster utilizes the movement of the brake
shoes in a brake application to actuate the adjuster
lever.
This action will repeat on subsequent brake applications, i f necessary, u n t i l the shoe to lining clearance
is reduced to a point where the shoe movement
is not enough to cause the cable to lift the lever
to the next tooth.
The adjusting lever, adjusting screw assembly,
linkage rods and lever crank parts are left hand
or right hand parts, N O T interchangeable, and
M U S T be kept separated.
The automatic adjuster on the brake system consists of an adjusting screw assembly, adjusting
lever, two adjusting links, and a lever crank, (Fig.
P-10).
N o t e : I t is not necessary to remove the rear axle
shaft hubs to perform minor brake service.
When replacement of oil seals is also required, hubs
must be removed.
On vehicles equipped w i t h self-adjusting brake
assemblies, self-adjustment of the front wheel
brakes takes place during reverse wheel brake application and the rear wheel brake adjustment takes
place during forward vehicle brake application.
P-15. R e l i n i n g W h e e l B r a k e s
a . When necessary to reline the brakes, the vehicle
should be raised so that all four wheels are free.
b. T u r n the brake shoe star adjustment all the
way i n . Refer to Fig. P-12.
c . Remove the wheels, hubs and drums, which will
give access to the brake shoes (Fig. P-10, P-11).
d . Install Wheel Cylinder Clamps C-416 to retain the wheel cylinder pistons i n place and prevent
leakage of brake fluid while replacing the shoes.
P-16. B r a k e S h o e
Removal
• Removing the Front Brake Shoes.
• Refer to F i g . P-10.
a . Using Tool C-3785 or equivalent remove the
upper linkage rod and brake shoe return springs.
b. Remove the brake shoe retainer, spring and pins.
c. Remove the anchor pin plate.
d. Remove the primary and secondary brake shoe
assembly from the support.
e. Overlap the anchor ends of the primary and
secondary brake shoes and remove the adjusting
screw, adjuster lever, lower return spring, and
linkage rods.
P
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
it will be necessary to replace or recondition the
wheel cylinder (Par. P-21) and bleed the brake
lines (Par. P-7).
Whenever the brake lining is replaced in one front
or one rear wheel, be sure to perform the same
operation in the opposite front or rear wheel, using the same brake lining part number. Otherwise,
unequal brake action will result.
FIG. P-9—WHEEL HUB OIL SEAL
DRIVER
• Removing the Rear Brake Shoes.
• Refer to Fig. P - l l .
a. Using Tool C-3785 or equivalent remove the
upper linkage rod and brake shoe return springs.
b. Remove the brake shoe retainer, spring and pins.
c. Remove the anchor pin plate and tilt the brake
shoe assembly out from the backing plate.
d. On vehicles without a transmission brake,
spread the anchor ends of the primary and secondary shoes and remove the parking brake strut and
spring.
e. On vehicles without a transmission brake, disengage the parking brake cable from the parking
brake lever and remove the brake assembly.
f. Overlap the anchor ends of the primary and
secondary shoes and remove the adjusting screw,
adjusting lever, lower return spring, and linkage
rods.
P-17. Inspection
Inspect the oil seals in the wheel hubs. If the condition of any oil seal is doubtful, replace it. Install
the oil seal with an oil seal driver as shown in Fig.
P-9.
Brake shoes may be distorted by improper lining
installation and linings should be ground true. For
this reason it is recommended that new or replacement shoe and lining assemblies be installed.
Using brake drum micrometer C-3920 or equivalent, check all drums. Should a brake drum
be rough and scored, it may be reconditioned by
grinding or turning in a lathe. Do not remove more
than .030" [0,762 mm.] thickness of metal .060"
[1,52 mm.] overall diameter. If a drum is reconditioned in this manner, either the correct factorysupplied, oversize lining .030" [0,762 mm.] must be
installed or a shim equal in thickness to the metal
removed must be placed between the lining and
shoe so that the arc of the lining will be the same
as that of the drum.
If it is found when wheels are removed that there
is brake fluid leakage at any of the wheel cylinders,
F I G . P-10—STANDARD F R O N T W H E E L B R A K E
ASSEMBLY WITH LINK T Y P E ADJUSTER
1—Primary Shoe
2—Wheel Cylinder
3— Secondary Shoe
4—Adjuster Screw Assembly
5— Sleeve
6—Lever Plate
7—Linkage Rod (Upper)
8—Screw
9—Linkage Rod (Lower)
10—Adjuster Lever
P-18. Brake Shoe Installation
Refer to Fig. P-10.
I N S T A L L I N G T H E F R O N T B R A K E SHOES
To install the front brake shoes proceed as follows:
a. Match a primary with a secondary brake shoe
and place them in their relative position on a
work bench.
Note: Primary brake linings are color coded red
and green. Secondary brake linings are color coded
white and green.
b. Lubricate the threads of the adjusting screw
and install it between the primary and secondary
shoes. The star adjusting wheels are stamped " R "
and " L " indicating thread rotation. The left front
brake adjusting screw has right hand thread rotation and the right front brake adjusting screw has
left hand thread rotation.
329
p
BRAKES
c. To assemble the brake unit, place the shoes on
the backing plates and secure with the shoe hold
down pin and clip. Place the adjusting lever on the
secondary shoe web making sure the slot in the
lever engages to full depth with the slot in the shoe
web. The adjuster levers are painted R E D for
right hand brakes and B L U E for left hand brakes.
d. Install the adjusting screw assemblies. The star
wheel must be installed over the adjusting hole in
the backing plate.
Notes Interchanging adjusting screw assemblies
will cause shoe to retract rather than expand.
e. Assemble the lower spring that fastens to the
two shoe webs. T H E L O N G H O O K E N D should
be secured in the small hole in the secondary shoe
and should be U N D E R the shoe web. The short
hook end should be secured in the small hole in the
primary shoe. If the spring is installed correctly,
the long hook end will not interfere with either the
lever or the star wheel teeth.
f. Install the anchor block with arrow pointing in
the forward direction of the drum rotation. Place
the guide plate over the anchor pin and using Tool
C-3 785 install the shoe return springs (secondary
spring first) with the long hook end flat against the
guide plate.
g. Install the lever crank in the small hole on the
secondary shoe web, the left lever crank on the left,
and right lever crank on the right. A " L " or " R " is
located on the hexagon side of the crank for identification. Make certain the lever rotates freely on
the hexagon head screw.
fi. Assemble the short wire link with large hook by
first inserting the "S" shape offset end into the
lever crank hole which is closest to the hexagon
head and then snap the hook end of the link in the
top groove of the anchor pin.
i. Insert the long link with "S" shaped end in the
crank lever. Lift the adjuster lever up enough to
hook the link in the slot of the adjusting lever. The
adjusting lever will then engage the star wheel
teeth between M% [1,59 mm.] above or below the
centerline of adjusting screw assembly,
j . Lubricate the wheel bearings and install the
brake drum and adjust the wheel bearing to the
proper preload.
k. Adjust the brakes as described in Par. P-19.
I N S T A L L I N G T H E R E A R B R A K E SHOES
Refer to Fig. P - l l .
a. Inspect the platforms of the backing plates for
nicks or burrs. Apply a thin coat of lubricant to
the backing plates platforms.
b. On vehicles without a transmission brake,
attach the parking brake lever to the back side of
the secondary shoe.
c. Place the secondary and a primary shoe in their
relative position on a work bench.
Note: Primary brake linings are color coded red
and green. Secondary brake linings are color coded
white and green.
d. Lubricate the threads of the adjusting screw
and install it between the primary and secondary
shoes with the star wheel installed over the adjusting hole in the backing plate. The threaded ends of
the star adjusting wheels are stamped " R " and " L "
indicating thread rotation.
The left rear brake adjusting screw has left hand
thread rotation and the right rear brake adjusting
screw has right hand thread rotation.
e. Overlap the anchor ends of the primary and
the secondary brake shoes and install the lower
return spring.
'Jeep* U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
f. On vehicles without a transmission brake hold
the brake shoes in their relative position and
engage the parking brake cable into the parking
brake lever.
g. On vehicles without a transmission brake install the parking brake strut and spring between
the parking brake lever and the primary shoe.
h. Place the brake shoes on the backing plate and
install the retainer pins, springs and retainers.
i. Install the anchor pin plate.
j . Install the lever and sleeve on the primary shoe
then install the secondary return spring, then the
primary return spring.
Important: A " L " or " R " is located on the hexagon side of the lever crank for identification. The
lever crank marked " R " applies to the primary
shoe on the left rear brake assembly. The lever
crank marked " L " applies to the primary shoe on
the right rear brake assembly.
k. Place the upper linkage rod in the groove of the
anchor pin and engage the hook of the link rod into
the adjusting lever.
I. Install the brake drum. Install the wheel and
tire assembly.
m . Adjust the brakes as described below.
P-19. Brake Shoe Initial A d j u s t m e n t —
a. Should wheel brake units have been disassembled for any reason, an initial adjustment M U S T
be made before drum installation.
b. When the brake parts have been installed in
their correct position, initially adjust the adjusting
screw assemblies to a point where approximately
Y% [9,53 mm.] of threads are exposed between the
star wheel and star wheel nut.
Note: Following the initial adjustment and final
assembly, check brake pedal height to ensure
brake operation. Then drive the car in reverse and
P
forward, making 10 to 15 brake applications prior
to road testing. This action balances the adjustment of the four brake units and raises the brake
pedal.
c. Adjustment may be made manually by removing the access slot cover and using a brake adjusting tool or screw driver to rotate the star wheel
until the wheel is in the locked position. To tighten,
rotate the star wheel in the clockwise direction.
Then back off the star wheel at least 15 to 20
notches (clicks).
d. To back off the star wheel on the brake, insert
ice pick or thin blade screw driver in adjusting
screw slot to hold lever away from adjusting screw.
Back off on adjusting screw until wheel and drum
turn freely. Replace adjusting hole cover.
C a u t i o n : D O N O T attempt to back off on adjusting screw without holding adjuster lever away
from screw as adjuster will be damaged.
P-20. Master Cylinder Reconditioning —
Dual System
Refer to Fig. P-13.
DISASSEMBLY
a. Remove the filler cap and empty all fluid.
b. Remove the snap ring, push rod assembly, and
the primary and secondary piston assemblies. Air
pressure applied in the piston stop hole will help
facilitate the removal of the secondary piston assembly.
c. The residual check valves are located under
the front and rear fluid outlet tube seats.
d. The tube seats must be removed with the selftapping screws supplied in the repair kit to permit
removal of the check valves. Screw the self-tapping
screws into the tube seats and place two screw
driver tips under the screw head and force the
screw upward as shown in Fig. P-14.
e. Remove the expander in the rear secondary cup,
secondary cups, return spring, cup protector, primary cup, and washer from the secondary piston.
f. The primary piston, with the rubber cups installed, is supplied in the repair kit.
CLEANING
a. After disassembly, immersion of all metal parts
in clean brake fluid or a brake system cleaner is
recommended. Use air hose to blow out dirt and
cleaning solvent from recesses and internal passages. When overhauling a hydraulic brake unit,
use all parts furnished in the repair kit. Discard
all old rubber parts.
b. After cleaning, place all" hydraulic system parts
on clean paper or in a clean pan.
FIG.
P-12—BRAKE
SHOE
ADJUSTMENT
1— Star Wheel
2—Lever
3— Screwdriver
4— Brake Adjusting Tool
INSPECTION
Inspect all other parts for damage or excessive
wear. Replace any damaged, worn, or chipped
parts. Inspect hydraulic cylinder bore for signs of
scoring, rust, pitting, or etching. Any of these will
require replacement of the hydraulic cylinder.
331
BRAKES
12519
FIG.
1— Boot
2—Snap Ming
3"*—Piston Assembly
4—Backing Ring
5—Master Cylinder C u p
P-13—DOUBLE S A F E T Y MASTER
6— Master Cylinder Cup
7— Piston
8— Master Cylinder Cup
9— Cup Protector
10—Spring
REASSEMBLY
a. Prior to reassembly of the master cylinder, dip
all components in clean brake fluid and place on
clean paper or in a clean pan.
b. Install the primary cup washer, primary cup,
cup protector, and return spring on the secondary
piston.
c . Install the piston cups in the double groove end
of the secondary piston, so the flat j of the cups
face each other (lip of cups away from each other).
Install the cup expander in the lip groove of the
end cup.
cL Coat the cylinder bore and piston assemblies
with clean brake fluid before installing any parts
in the cylinder.
e. Install the secondary piston assembly first and
then the primary piston which is supplied in the
repair kit.
f. Install the push rod assembly, which includes
the push rod, boot, and rod retainer, and secure
with the snap ring. Install the primary piston stop.
g. Place new rubber check valves over the check
valve springs and install in the outlet holes, spring
first.
Note: When replacing a complete master cylinder
with a service unit, the original push rod must be
used. The push rod retainer and snap ring retainer
332
CYLINDER
11—Cylinder Housing
12— Cover Gasket
13—Cover
14—Washer Gasket
15—Washer
16— Cover Bolt
17— Check Valve Spring
18—Check Valve
19—Tube Seat
20—Piston Stop
12617
FIG.
P-14—REMOVING
TUBE
SEATS
1 —Screwdriver
2 —No. 6-32 Self-Tapping Screw
3— Tube Seat
must be removed and discarded. As the new unit
has the retainers installed it is only necessary to
install the push rod until a "snap" is heard and the
push rod is retained.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
h. Install the tube seats, flat side toward the check
valve, and press in with tube nuts or the master
cylinder brake pipe tube nuts.
BLEEDING
a. Before the master cylinder is installed on the
car, the unit must be bled.
b. Support the cylinder assembly in a vise and
fill both fluid reservoirs with approved brake fluid,
e. Loosely install a plug in each outlet of the
cylinder. Depress the push rod several times until
air bubbles cease to appear in the brake fluid.
d . Tighten the plugs and attempt to depress the
piston. The piston travel should be restricted after
all air is expelled.
e. Install the master cylinder on the car and bleed
the hydraulic lines at the wheel cylinder. Refer
to Par. P-7.
P
b. Remove the rubber dust covers on ends of
cylinder. Remove the pistons and piston cups and
the spring.
c. Wash the parts in clean alcohol.
d. Examine the cylinder bore for roughness or
scoring. Check fit of pistons to cylinder bore.
e. When reassembling the cylinder, dip springs,
pistons and piston cups in brake fluid. Install
spring in center of the wheel cylinder. Install
piston cups with the cupped surface towards the
spring so that the flat surface will be against
the piston. Install pistons and dust covers.
f. Install wheel cylinder to the backing plate and
connect brake line and install brake shoe return
spring.
g. Replace wheel, hub, and drum.
h. Bleed the brake lines (Par. P-7).
P-21. W h e e l C y l i n d e r R e c o n d i t i o n i n g
• Refer to Fig. P-15.
P-22.
N o t e : Make sure a replacement brake cylinder
has the same part number as the original cylinder.
FIG. P-15—WHEEL B R A K E
CYLINDER
1— Boot
2— Piston
3— Cylinder Cup
4—Cup Spring
5—Cylinder
6—Bleeder Screw
a. To remove a wheel cylinder, jack up the vehicle
and remove the wheel, hub, and drum. Disconnect
the brake line at the fitting on the brake backing
plate. Remove the brake shoe return spring which
will allow the brake shoes at the toe to fall clear
of the brake cylinder. Remove two screws holding
the wheel cylinder to the backing plate.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
P-23. Squeaky Brakes
In most cases, squeaks are entirely eliminated by
correct adjustment of the brakes. Squeaks may be
caused however, by glazed linings, lining wore thin
to the point of exposed rivets or by vibration. A
drum will not vibrate when the brake is securing
uniform contact over the entire lining surface, except when due to improper conditions such as the
linings becoming glazed. Glazed surface of the
brake linings may be removed by a stiff wire brush.
Occasionally squeaks are caused by roughened surface of the drum, which can usually be remedied
by rubbing down with emery cloth and by wiping
the brakings surface clean. In extreme cases it may
be necessary to reface the drum in a lathe. Should
this be done, do not remove a metal thickness
greater than .030" [0,762 mm.] - .060" [1,52 mm.]
overall diameter.
P-24. R a t t l e s i n Brakes
See that the tension of the springs in the brakes
and attached to the control system are sufficient to
return brakes and brake mechanism to their normal
position. Return springs are so placed that they
keep all slack out of the control system by tension
on all joints.
Brakes will not rattle inside the drum if the springs
holding the shoes are kept at the proper tension.
333
p
BRAKES
P-25. SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Brakes Drag
SYMPTOMS
PROBABLE
Brake Shoes Improperly Adjusted
Piston Cups Enlarged
..
•. «•
Mineral Oil or Improper Brake Fluid in System. . .
Improper Pedal Adjustment
Clogged Master Cylinder By-Pass Port...
One Brake Drags
Brake Shoe Adjustment Incorrect
v Brake Hose Clogged.
Return Spring Broken
Wheel Cylinder Piston 01 Cups D e f e c t i v e . . . . . . . . .
Loose or Damaged Wheel Bearings
REMEDY
Adjust
Flush all lines with Alcohol. Install new cups in
wheel and Master Cylinders
Adjust Master Cylinder E y e Bolt
Clean Master Cylinder
Adjust
Replace
Replace
Replace
Adjust or Replace
B r a k e G r a b s — V e h i c l e P u l l s to O n e S i d e
Grease or Brake Fluid on L i n i n g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Dirt Between Lining and Drum
Drum Scored or Rough
Loose Wheel Bearings.
.
Axle Spring Clips Loose
Brake Backing Plate Loose
Brake Lining
..
Brake Shoe Reversed
Tires Under-Inflated
Tires Worn Unequally
Glazed or Worn Lining
Restricted Brake Line
Replace Lining
Clean with Wire Brush
Turn Drum and Replace Lining
Adjust
Tighten
Tighten
Different Kinds on Opposite Wheels
Forward and Rear Shoes misinstalled
Inflate
Replace or Rotate
Replace Linings
Locate and Repair
Excessive Pedal Travel
Normal Lining Wear
Lining Worn Out
Leak in Brake Line.
Scored Brake Drums
Incorrect Brake Lining.
Air in Hydraulic System
... .
Adjust
Replace
Locate and Repair
Replace or Regrind
Replace
Fill Master Cylinder — Bleed Lines
Spongy Brake Pedal
Air in Lines.
Brake Shoe Adjustment Incorrect
Insufficient Brake Fluid
Excessive Pedal Pressure
Grease or Brake Fluid in Lining
Shoes Improperly Adjusted
Warped Brake Shoes
Distorted Brake Drums
Glazed or Worn Lining
Restricted Brake Line
Faulty Brake Cylinder
Insufficient Brake Fluid.
Squeaky Brakes
Shoes Warped or Drums Distorted
Lining L o o s e . . . . .
Dirt Imbedded in Lining
Improper Adjustment.
Oil or Grease on Lining
Glazed or Worn Lining.
Drum Scored
334
Bleed Lines
Adjust
Fill Master Cylinder
Replace Lining
Major Adjustment
\
Replace
\
Replace or Regrind
\
Replace Linings
*
Locate and Repair
Repair or Replace
Fill Master Cylinder
Replace
Replace
Wire Brush or Replace
Adjust
Replace Linings
Replace Linings
Turn Drum and Replace Linings
.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
WHEELS
Contents
SUBJECT
PAR.
GENERAL
Wheel Balancing.
Q-l
Q-2
SUBJECT
PAR.
REAR W H E E L MOUNTING
.Q-9
WHEEL BEARING SERVICE. . . . . . .
Q-3
Checking Front Wheel Bearings
Q-4
Checking Rear Wheel Bearings. . . . . . . . . Q-7
Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment.
Q-5
Rear Wheel Bearing Adjustment —
Flanged Axle
Q-6
Rear Wheel Bearing Adjustment —
Tapered Axle
Q-8
BRAKE DRUM SERVICE. . . . . . .
Q-l.
bearings are adjustable for wear and their satisfactory operation depends upon periodic attention
and correct lubrication.
GENERAL
Each front wheel of a Jeep vehicle is carried on
two opposed tapered roller bearings as shown in
Fig. Q-l and Q-2. Rear wheels are carried on a
single tapered roller bearing mounted on each axle
shaft as shown in Fig. Q-3, Q-4 and Q-5. These
TIRE SERVICE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tire Care
Tire Removal and Installation.
SPECIFICATIONS
. . .Q-10
.Q-ll
Q-l2
Q-l3
. .Q-14
Q-2. Wheel Balancing
Wheel balancing with the wheel on the vehicle is
18 17
10731
FIG.
1—Hub Cap
2—Snap Ring
3—Drive Flange
4—Gasket
5—Nut
6— Lockwasher
Q-l—FRONT W H E E L ATTACHING
7—Lockwasher
8—Cone and Rollers
9— Cup
10—Hub and Drum
11—Oil Seal
12—Left Front Brake
PARTS —
4-WHEEL-DRIVE
13—Spindle and Bushing
14—Left Knuckle and Arm
15—Thrust Washer
16—Universal Joint Shaft
17—Lockwasher
18—Bolt
19—Screw
20—Nut
21—Lockwasher
22— Bolt
335
Q
WHEELS
FIG. Q-2—FRONT W H E E L
ATTACHING PARTS —
2-WHEEL-DRIVE
1—Steering Knuckle
2— Brake
3— H u b Grease Seal
4—Inner Bearing Cone
5— Inner Bearing C u p
6— H u b and D r u m
7—Outer Bearing C u p
8—Outer Bearing Cone
9—Tongued Washer
10— Nut
11— Cotter Pin
12— Grease Cap
13— N u t
14— Lockwasher
15— B o l t
j 10703
is
ir
10730
FIG.
Q-3—REAR W H E E L
1— Oil Seal
2— Cone and Rollers
3— Cup
4— Shims
5— Bearing Retainer
ATTACHING PARTS — 4-WHEEL-DRIVE TAPERED
6— Brake Backing Plate
7— Gasket
8— Grease Retainer
9— Grease Protector
10—Bolt
11— H u b and D r u m
12— Shaft K e y
1 3 — Washer
1 4 —N u t
1 5 — Cotter Pin
AXLE
I f i — H u b Cap
17—Nut
18— Ixick Washer
19—Bolt
FIG. Q-4—REAR W H E E L
ATTACHING PARTS — 2-WHEELDRIVE-TAPERED AXLE
1—Oil Seal
2 — Bearing Cone
3 — Bearing Cup
4— Shim Set
5— Retainer and Seal
6— Brake
7— Nut
8—Hub and Drum
9—Axle Shaft K e y
10— Washer
11— Nut
12— Cotter Pin
1 3 — Lockwasher
14— Bolt
recommended with the exception that rear wheels
on vehicles having Trac-Lok or Powr-Lok axles
should always be removed for balancing.
Q-3. WHEEL BEARING SERVICE
Adjustment of the wheel bearings is critical because it establishes the running clearance of the
336
wheel bearings. Wheel bearing adjustment that is
too tight preloads the bearings and causes them
to run hot. Loose wheel bearings permit the drum
hub to shift its position on the bearings as thrust
loads vary with acceleration, braking, and cornering.
Loose bearings also cause erratic braking. T o check
the wheel bearings for adjustment, brakes must
be free and in fully released position.
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
FIG. Q-5—REAR W H E E L
ATTACHING PARTS —
FLANGED AXLE
1— Brake Backing Plate
2— Retainer Ring
3 — Unit-Bearing
4— Oil Seal
5—Retainer Plate
6— Brake Drum
7—Cup Plug
8— Flanged Axle Shaft
14284
Q-4. Checking Front Wheel Bearings
Raise the front end of the vehicle with a jack
so that the tires clear the floor.
Grip the tire and test sidewise shake of the wheel.
If bearings are correctly adjusted, shake of the
wheel will be just perceptible and wheel will turn
freely with no drag.
If bearing adjustment is too tight, the rollers may
break or become overheated. Loose bearings may
cause excessive wear and noise.
If this test indicates bearing adjustment is necessary, follow the procedure given in Par. Q-5. Loose
bearings will cause sidewise shake that is evident
around the entire circumference of the wheel. A
shake that is evident only when gripping the wheels
in a plane parallel to the ground, but not evident
around the entire circumference, probably indicates
looseness in the steering linkage.
Q-5. Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment
With the vehicle on the jack, the following procedure should be followed to adjust the front wheel
bearings on four wheel-drive vehicles.
a. Remove the hub cap, snap ring, capscrews, and
washers that attach the driving flange to the hub.
b. Using the Front Axle Shaft Drive Flange Puller
W-163, pull the driving flange.
c. Bend the lip of the nut lock washer so that the
locknut and lock washer may be removed.
d. Rotate the wheel and tighten the adjustment
nut until the wheel binds.
Note: Front tire and wheel must be rotated by
hand as the adjusting nut is tightened to ensure
positive seating of the bearing.
Then back off the adjusting nut about one-sixth
turn making sure that wheel rotates freely without
sidewise shake.
e. Replace the lock washers and locknut. Bend
over the lock washer lip.
f. Check the adjustment (Par. Q-4). Reassemble
the driving flange and hub cap. Make certain the
gasket is properly installed between the hub and
the flange.
• Model DJ-5, DJ-6
On two-wheel drive vehicles, remove the hub cap
and the wheel retaining nut cotter pin. Rotate the
wheel and tighten the wheel retaining nut until
the wheel binds. Then back off nut about one-sixth
turn or more if necessary making sure wheel rotates freely without sidewise shake. Replace the
cotter pin and hub cap.
Q-6. Rear Wheel Bearing Adjustment —
Flanged Axle Shaft
Vehicles equipped with the flange type rear axle
shaft require no wheel bearing adjustment. The
flanged axle shaft is equipped with a single row,
pre-adjusted, tapered roller unit-bearing capable of
accepting thrust in either direction. The unitbearing adjustment is built in at the factory making shimming or bearing adjustment unnecessary.
Refer to Fig. Q-6.
Q-7. Checking Rear Wheel Bearings —
Tapered Axle
Raise wheel on which adjustment is to be made
by placing a jack under the axle housing. With
hands, test sidewise shake and in and out play
of the wheel. If bearings are correctly adjusted,
shake of wheel will be just perceptible and the
337
Q
WHEELS
FIG.
Q-6—REAR WHEEL, FLANGED
AND B E A R I N G ASSY.
1—Retainer Plate
2— Oil Seal
3 — Unit Bearing
4— Retaining Ring
5— Axle Shaft
AXLE
wheel will turn freely with no drag. If adjustment
is necessary, follow the procedure given in Par. Q-8.
Q-8.
Rear Wheel Bearing Adjustment —
Tapered Axle
The bearing adjusting shims are placed between
the brake backing plate and axle flange as shown
in Fig. Q-7.
With wheel raised on jack, the following procedure
should be used to make the rear wheel bearing
adjustment.
a. Remove the hub cap with hub cap puller, the
cotter pin, axle shaft nut, and washer. Remove the
wheel hub and drum with a wheel puller.
b. Disconnect hydraulic brake line at wheel
cylinder.
c. Remove the bolts holding the brake dust shield,
grease and bearing retainer, and the brake backing
plate.
d. Remove or install shims to adjust the bearings
to provide .001" to .006" [0,025 a 0,152 mm.]
end float of the axle shaft.
Note: Before reassembly of the wheel make certain
the backing plate nuts are tight and torqued at
25 to 35 lb-ft [3,4 a 4,8 kg-m.].
e. Reassemble the wheel, adjust brakes, and check
the bearing adjustment (Par. Q-7).
0-9.
REAR WHEEL MOUNTING — TAPERED AXLE
Proper axle shaft key installation is accomplished
by placing the hub and drum on the axle shaft
taper and then inserting the axle shaft key in the
338
FIG.
Q-7—REAR W H E E L AND HUB BEARING —
TAPERED A X L E SHAFT
1—-Adjusting Shims
2—Inner Seal
3—Outer Seal
keyway. Never install the key in the keyway before
placing the hub and drum assembly on the axle
shaft. Be sure that the axle shaft nut is torqued
to a minimum of 150 lb-ft. [20,7 kg-m.].
O-10. BRAKE DRUM SERVICE
On rear wheels, the hub fits inside the brake drum
(Fig. Q-3). On front wheels, the hub is attached
to the outside of the brake drum (Fig. Q - l ) . The
brake drums are attached to the wheel hubs by
five serrated bolts. These bolts are also used for
mounting the wheels on the hub. To remove a
brake drum, press or drive out the serrated bolts
and remove the drum from the hub. When placing
the drum on the hub, make sure that the contacting
surfaces are clean and flat. Line up the holes in
the drum with those in the hub and put the drum
over the shoulder on the hub. Insert five new
serrated bolts through the drum and hub and drive
the bolts into place solidly. Place a round head
of the bolt in a vise. Next, place the hub and drum
assembly over it so that the bolt head rests on it.
Then swage the bolt into the countersunk section
of the hub or drum with a punch. The runout of
the drum face should be within .030" [0,76 mm.]
total indicator reading. If the runout is found to
be greater than .030" it will be necessary to reset
the bolts to correct the condition.
0-11. TIRE SERVICE
Refer to Fig. Q-8.
One of the most important factors of safe vehicle
operation is systematic and correct tire maintenance. Tires must sustain the weight of a loaded
vehicle, withstand more than ordinary rough serv-
Q
'Jeep' U N I V E R S A L S E R I E S S E R V I C E M A N U A L
ice, provide maximum safety over all types of
terrain, and furnish the medium on which the
vehicle can be maneuvered with ease. Although
there are other elements of tire service, inflation
maintenance is the most important and in many
instances the most neglected. The tire pressure
should be maintained for safe operation. An underinflated tire is dangerous as too much flexing can
cause breakage of the casing. Overinflation in time
may cause a blowout.
Upon careful inspection of tires, it may be found
that imp