Buell Lightning workshop manual
SECTION I–MAINTENANCE
SUBJECT
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
PAGE NO.
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Side Views. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fluid Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear Preload Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ignition Timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
4
6
7
8
9
This section explains procedures unique to 1997 model S1 Lightnings. Any procedures not found
in this supplement are covered in the 1996 S1 Lightning Service Manual (Part No. 99490-96Y).
1
NOTES
2
SPECIFICATIONS
I
DIMENSIONS
IN.
MM
55
1397
Spark plugs
Overall length
79.5
2019
Size
Overall width
30
762
Gap
Road clearance
5.2
132
Seat height
29.5
749
Wheel base
IGNITION SYSTEM
No. 6R12
12 mm
0.038-0.045 in.
TRANSMISSION
Type
Constant Mesh, Foot Shift
Speeds
CAPACITIES
0.97-1.14 mm
5 Forward
U.S.
LITERS
Fuel tank (including reserve)
4.0 gallons
15.14
Reserve
0.6 gallons
2.27
Engine
35
Oil tank
2.0 quarts
1.89
Clutch
56
Transmission
1.0 quart
0.95
Transmission
27
Rear wheel
61
Belt
128
WEIGHT
NUMBER OF SPROCKET TEETH
LBS.
KG
S1 shipping weight
446
202
TRANSMISSION GEAR RATIOS
GVWR
820
372
GAWR - Front
340
GAWR - Rear
480
FINAL*
OVERALL**
First (low) gear
2.69
9.717
154
Second gear
1.97
7.118
218
Third gear
1.43
5.180
Fourth gear
1.18
4.269
Fifth (high) gear
1.00
3.615
NOTE
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) (maximum allowable
loaded vehicle weight) and corresponding Gross Axle Weight
Ratings (GAWR) are given on an information decal located on
the front frame steering head.
ENGINE
PRESSURE
FOR SOLO
RIDING
PRESSURE
AT GVWR
Front-Dunlop Sportmax
Radial II 120/70 ZR 17
32 PSI
(2.2 bar)
36 PSI
(2.5 bar)
Rear-Dunlop Sportmax
Radial II 170/60 ZR 17
36 PSI
(2.5 bar)
38 PSI
(2.8 bar)
TIRE AND POSITION
Number of cylinders
2
Type
4-Cycle, 45 Degree V-Type
Bore
3.498 in.
88.849 mm
Stroke
3.8125 in.
96.838 mm
Piston displacement
73.4 cu. in.
1203 cc
Compression ratio
*Final gear ratios indicate number of mainshaft revolutions
required to drive output sprocket one revolution.
**Overall gear ratios indicate number of engine revolutions
required to drive rear wheel one revolution.
10.0 to 1
Horsepower @ RPM
91 @ 5800
Torque ft-lb @ RPM
87 @ 5200
1WARNING
Do not inflate any tire beyond its maximum inflation
pressure as specified on tire sidewall. Overinflation may
cause tire to suddenly deflate leading to personal injury.
3
SIDE VIEWS
6
5806
2
3
4
5
7
8
1
9
10
16
15
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Right rear turn signal
Tail/stop lamp
Rear brake master cylinder/
reservoir
Air cleaner cover
Fuel filler cap
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
14 13
12
11
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
Front brake master cylinder
Front brake hand lever
Right front turn signal
Headlamp
Front brake caliper
Timer cover
Rear shock absorber
Rear brake pedal
Rider footrest
Belt guard(s)
License plate light
Figure 1. 1997 S1 Lightning, Right Side View
5808
7
6
3 4
8
5
2
9
1
14
1.
2.
3.
4.
Rear axle adjuster nut
Rear sprocket and secondary
drive belt
Ignition module
Fuse block and spare fuse
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
13
12 11 10
Turn signal flasher
Remote idle adjuster
Front brake master cylinder
Front brake hand lever
Front brake caliper
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
Oil pump
Battery
Voltage regulator
Rider footrest
Passenger footrest
Figure 2. 1997 S1 Lightning, Right Side View (Body Removed)
4
5807
3
4 5
6
7
8
2
9
1
10
15
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Left front turn signal
Headlamp
Clutch hand lever
Fuel filler cap
Horn
14
13
Ignition/headlamp key switch
Fuel supply valve
Tail/stop lamp
Left rear turn signal
Rear brake caliper
12
11
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Passenger footrest
Rider footrest
Gear shift lever
Exhaust muffler
Oil filter
Figure 3. 1997 S1 Lightning, Left Side View
5809
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
15
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Steering head lock
Instruments
Clutch hand lever
Ignition coil
Enrichener knob
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
14
13
Starter relay
Oil filler plug/dipstick
Oil tank
Rear brake caliper
Rear axle adjuster nut
12
11
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Oil tank drain hose
Gear shift lever
Exhaust muffler
Oil filter
Speedometer drive
Figure 4. 1997 S1 Lightning, Left Side View (Body Removed)
5
FLUID REQUIREMENTS
GENERAL
United States System
Unless otherwise specified, all fluid volume measurements
in this Service Manual are expressed in United States
(U.S.) units-of-measure. See below:
●
●
●
1 pint (U.S.) = 16 fluid ounces (U.S.)
1 quart (U.S.) = 2 pints (U.S.) = 32 fl. oz. (U.S.)
1 gallon (U.S.) = 4 quarts (U.S.) = 128 fl. oz. (U.S.)
Metric System
Fluid volume measurements in this Service Manual include
the metric system equivalents. In the metric system, 1 liter
(L) = 1,000 milliliters (mL). Should you need to convert from
U.S. units-of-measure to metric units-of-measure (or vice
versa), refer to the following:
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
fluid ounces (U.S.) x 29.574 = milliliters
pints (U.S.) x 0.473 = liters
quarts (U.S.) x 0.946 = liters
gallons (U.S.) x 3.785 = liters
milliliters x 0.0338 = fluid ounces (U.S.)
liters x 2.114 = pints (U.S.)
liters x 1.057 = quarts (U.S.)
liters x 0.264 = gallons (U.S.)
FRONT FORK OIL
Use only WP FORK OIL, 5 WEIGHT.
FUEL
Use a good quality leaded or unleaded gasoline (91 pump
octane or higher). Pump octane is the octane number usually
shown on the gas pump.
ENGINE OIL
Use the proper grade of oil for the lowest temperature
expected before the next oil change.
Table 1. Recommended Oil Grades
HARLEYDAVIDSON TYPE
H.D. Multi-Grade
H.D. Multi-Grade
H.D. Regular Heavy
H.D. Extra Heavy
STEERING HEAD BEARING
GREASE
Use WHEEL BEARING GREASE (Part No. 99855-89).
BRAKE FLUID
1WARNING
D.O.T. 5 SILICONE HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID can cause
eye irritation. In case of contact with eyes, flush with
plenty of water and get medical attention. KEEP BRAKE
FLUID OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN!
Use only D.O.T. 5 SILICONE HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID
(Part No. 99902-77).
6
HARLEYVISCOSITY DAVIDSON
RATING
SAE
10W40
SAE
20W50
SAE
50
SAE
60
HD 240
HD 240
HD 240
HD 240
LOWEST
AMBIENT
TEMP.
COLD
WEATHER
STARTS
BELOW
50° F
Below 40°F
(4°C)
Excellent
40°
Above
(4°C)
60°
Above
(16°C)
80°
Above
(27°C)
Good
Poor
Poor
PRIMARY DRIVE/TRANSMISSION
LUBRICANT
Use only SPORT-TRANS FLUID (Part No. 98854-96 quart
size or Part No. 98855-96 gallon size).
CLUTCH
MODEL YEAR CHANGE
See Figure 5. All 1997 model year motorcycles use the new
style clutch release ramp introduced on late 1996 vehicles.
The clutch adjustment and lever freeplay procedures remain
the same. The change was made to provide additional clearance between the coupler and the primary cover.
5671
New style
Old style
Figure 5. Ramp Change
7
REAR PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
GENERAL
b0269xox
Rear suspension spring preload must be adjusted before any
other adjustments can be attempted. This adjustment assures
that the rear suspension has the proper amount of travel.
Rear turn signal
mounting bolt
Spring preload is the most important suspension adjustment
on the S1 Lightning. Improper preload will adversely affect
both the handling and motorcycle ride. Correct preload setting will result in motorcycle handling that suits the rider’s size
and weight.
Rear axle nut
ADJUSTMENT
You will need three people to carry out this adjustment.
1.
Verify correct front and rear tire pressure. See SPECIFICATIONS on page 3.
2.
Remove all accessories from motorcycle including tank
bag and/or saddlebags.
3.
Take the motorcycle off the side stand and bounce the
rear up and down a few times to be sure the suspension
is free and not binding.
4.
See Figure 6. Measure the distance from the center of the
rear axle nut to the rear turn signal mounting bolt without
rider/passenger/cargo/accessories on the motorcycle.
5.
Install items removed in Step 2. Load all cargo.
6.
Bounce a few times on the seat to be sure the suspension is free and not binding.
7.
With the help of an assistant, take the same measurement with the vehicle fully loaded (rider/passenger/luggage/cargo). The assistant should help balance the
motorcycle so the rider can keep both feet on the footrests.
8.
Subtract the second measurement from the first. The difference, which is the squat, should be 0.25-0.75 in. (6.419.1 mm). If it is not, you will have to adjust the spring
preload.
●
1CAUTION
Be sure to apply the same number of turns to each
preload adjusting nut to ensure that the drawing
rings do not become misaligned. Misaligned drawing
rings will cause the shock absorber spring to bind
against the adjustment rods
●
Be sure the drawing rings are parallel within 1/64 in.
(0.4 mm). Misaligned drawing rings will cause the
shock absorber spring to bind against the adjustment rods.
9.
See Figure 7. Change the spring preload by adjusting
both preload adjusting nuts (1) (metric) behind the rear
drawing ring (2).
8
Figure 6. Checking Rear Preload
a.
Increase the preload by tightening the nuts.
b.
Decrease the preload by loosening the nuts.
2
3
1
1.
2.
3.
Preload adjusting nut (2) (metric)
Rear drawing ring
Adjustment rod (2)
Figure 7. Adjusting Rear Preload
b0283x2x
IGNITION TIMING
MODEL YEAR CHANGE
5853
See Figure 8. All 1997 model year motorcycles have the
remote idle adjuster introduced on late 1996 vehicles. Using
this adjuster, it is no longer necessary to use the CARBURETOR IDLE ADJUSTMENT TOOL (Part No. HD-33413) and
TIP (SNAP-ON Part No. TMP23A) to adjust engine idle
speed.
NOTE
The new idle adjuster changes Step 4 of IGNITION TIMING,
INSPECTION in Section 1 the 1996 manual.
See REMOTE IDLE ADJUSTER on page 21 for more information.
Figure 8. Remote Idle Adjuster
9
NOTES
10
SECTION II–CHASSIS
SUBJECT
1.
2.
3.
4.
PAGE NO.
Vehicle Identification Number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front Brake Caliper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Swingarm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
13
14
15
16
This section explains procedures unique to 1997 model S1 Lightnings. Any procedures not found
in this supplement are covered in the 1996 S1 Lightning Service Manual (Part No. 99490-96Y).
11
NOTES
12
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER
MODEL YEAR CHANGE
An abbreviated V.I.N. is stamped on the front left side of the
crankcase.
See Figure 9. A 17-digit serial number, or Vehicle Identification Number (V.I.N.), is stamped on the right side of the steering head (ex., 4MZSS11J1V3200001). Also affixed to the
steering head at this location is an information decal bearing
the V.I.N. code.
NOTE
Always give the V.I.N. or abbreviated V.I.N. when ordering
parts or making inquiries about your Buell motorcycle.
Manufacturer: Buell Motorcycle Company
Type Designation
11 = World
56 = California
Engine
Horsepower Code
Model Year - 1997
Sequential Number
4
MZ
SS 11
*Varies - can be 0 thru 9 or X
J
*
V
32
00001-20000 = World
20001-25000 = California
00001
Sample V.I.N. as it appears on the steering head - 4MZSS11J1V3200001
Sample abbreviated V.I.N. as it appears on the left side crankcase- SS11V200001
Figure 9. Vehicle Identification Number (V.I.N.)
13
FRONT WHEEL
MODEL YEAR CHANGE
5874
See Figure 10. All 1997 model year motorcycles have new
fasteners on the front brake rotor/carrier assembly.
5
Separate the carrier from the rotor only when necessary. Use
new clips when reassembling.
2
NOTE
The new rotor/carrier assembly changes Step 4 of FRONT
WHEEL, REMOVAL and Step 2 of FRONT WHEEL, ASSEMBLY in the 1996 manual.
1
4
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 10. Remove and discard the clip (2).
2.
Remove the wave washer (3).
3.
Remove the drive pin (1). Repeat this procedure for the
other five fasteners to separate the carrier (4) from the
rotor (5).
4.
Assemble in reverse order. Use new clips upon assembly.
3
1.
2.
3.
Drive pin (6)
Clip (6)
Wave washer (6)
4.
5.
Carrier
Rotor
Figure 10. 1997 Rotor to Carrier Fastener
14
FRONT BRAKE CALIPER
TOOL INFORMATION
b0265x2x
Use the BRAKE CALIPER PISTON REMOVER (Part No. B42079) to simplify front caliper piston removal.
Banjo bolt hole
NOTE
The following instructions expand upon Step 9 of FRONT
BRAKE CALIPER, REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY in the 1996
manual.
1.
Attach caliper half to tool.
a.
See Figure 11. Attach outside caliper half using two
screws.
b.
See Figure 12. Attach inside caliper half using two
screws and two nuts.
1WARNING
When using air pressure to remove pistons from caliper,
pistons may be ejected with considerable force. Wear
safety glasses and heavy gloves to prevent personal
injury.
1CAUTION
Figure 11. Outside Caliper Half
b0266x2x
Exercise care to avoid dropping piston on hard surface.
Any damage requires piston replacement.
2.
If removing pistons from outside caliper half, place a
gloved finger over the banjo bolt hole.
3.
See Figure 13. Apply low pressure air to force the pistons
from the caliper bores.
Figure 12. Inside Caliper Half
b0297x2x
Figure 13. Using Air Pressure to Remove Pistons
15
SWINGARM
MODEL YEAR CHANGE
b0290a2x
All 1997 model year motorcycles use a revised swingarm
pivot assembly. The modifications allow preload to be
adjusted without using the PIVOT SHAFT BEARING
ADJUSTER (Part No. B-41175).
Threads
NOTE
See Figure 14. The threaded rod (1) replaces a pivot shaft
used on 1996 models. This new part changes the SWINGARM, ASSEMBLY and SWINGARM, INSTALLATION procedures in the 1996 manual.
6
3
2
ASSEMBLY
1.
See Figure 14. If necessary, draw new roller bearing
cups (5) into swingarm using BEARING INSTALLATION
BOLT (Part No. B-35316-5) and STEERING HEAD
BEARING RACE INSTALLER (Part No. HD-39302).
1
5
4
NOTE
Timkin roller bearing assemblies should be replaced as a
unit. Do not intermix components. Mark all components so
they may be correctly installed.
1.
2.
2.
Coat bearing components with WHEEL BEARING
GREASE (Part No. HD-99855-89) and assemble.
3.
3.
Install a new swingarm seal (3) flush to the swingarm.
4.
Slide swingarm assembly into position.
Threaded rod
Bearing adjustment
bolt, right
Swingarm seal (2)
4.
5.
6.
Roller bearing (2)
Bearing cup (2)
Bearing adjustment
bolt, left
Figure 14. Swingarm
b0294x2x
NOTE
See Figure 14. The left side bearing adjustment bolt (6) has
additional internal threads.
5.
Install both bearing adjustment bolts (2, 6) and the
threaded rod (1). Insert the rod from the air cleaner side
of the motorcycle.
6.
Tighten the left pinch screw on the swingarm mount
block. Do not tighten the right side pinch screw at this
time.
INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 15. Adjust swingarm preload by tightening
the threaded rod. Preload should measure 3.5-5.5 lbs
(1.6-2.5 kg).
2.
Follow the remaining installation instructions in the 1996
manual.
Figure 15. Adjusting Preload
16
SECTION III–ENGINE
All engine procedures in the 1996 S1 Lightning Service Manual (Part No. 99490-96Y) apply to
1997 models.
17
NOTES
18
SECTION IV–FUEL SYSTEM
SUBJECT
1.
2.
PAGE NO.
Remote Idle Adjuster. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Air Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
This section explains procedures unique to 1997 model S1 Lightnings. Any procedures not found
in this supplement are covered in the 1996 S1 Lightning Service Manual (Part No. 99490-96Y).
19
NOTES
20
REMOTE IDLE ADJUSTER
GENERAL
b0291xox
See Figure 16. The remote idle adjuster allows idle adjustments without use of tools. Idle speeds are listed in Table 2.
Increase
idle speed
REMOVAL
1.
Remove seat and fuel tank. See FUEL TANK, REMOVAL
in Section 4 of the 1996 manual.
2.
Remove cable strap holding adjuster to frame.
3.
See Figure 17. Unthread adjuster assembly from bracket
(4). Remove spring (3) and washer (2).
Adjuster
Decrease
idle speed
NOTE
If remote idle adjuster is permanently removed, install idle
adjuster screw, spring and two washers. See the 1996 S1
LIGHTNING PARTS CATALOG (Part No. 99571-96Y).
INSTALLATION
1.
2.
Figure 16. Idle Speed Adjuster
5900
See Figure 17. Thread remote adjuster (1), spring (3)
and washer (2) into bracket (4). Adjuster shaft (5) must
touch stop plate (6).
1
2
See Figure 18. Secure adjuster to frame with a figure-8
cable strap.
a.
Wrap cable strap around inside of frame, then up
and through the slot.
b.
Contine cable strap over adjuster.
c.
Run cable strap through the other side of the slot.
Strap should be tight enough that the adjuster turns
easily.
1WARNING
After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be
sure it is locked in position. If seat is loose, it could shift
during vehicle operation and startle the rider, causing
loss of control and personal injury.
3.
Install fuel tank and seat. See FUEL TANK, INSTALLATION in Section 4 of the 1996 manual.
4.
Start vehicle and warm engine to normal operating temperature.
5.
See Figure 16. Set idle speed by turning adjuster. See
Table 2.
a.
Turn clockwise to increase idle speed.
a.
Turn counterclockwise to decrease idle speed.
4
3
5
6
1.
2.
3.
Remote adjuster
Washer
Spring
4.
5.
6.
Bracket
Shaft
Stop plate
Figure 17. Removal/Installation
b0302x4x
Table 2. Engine Idle Speed
MODEL
World Model
REGULAR IDLE
FAST IDLE
Figure 18. Cable Strap
950-1050 RPM
2000 RPM
California
1150-1250 RPM
21
AIR CLEANER
MODEL YEAR CHANGE
5705
1
All 1997 model year motorcycles use a modified air cleaner
assembly. The new design increases serviceability.
REMOVAL
1CAUTION
Do not run engine without filter element in place. Debris
could be drawn into the engine causing damage.
1.
See Figure 19. Remove screw and nylon washer (1) on
top of air cleaner cover.
2.
Remove screw and locknut (2) at rear of air cleaner cover.
3.
See Figure 20. Remove cover (3) with attached filter box
(2) and filter (1).
4.
See Figure 21. Remove backplate hoses.
a.
Detach rear breather hose (4) from tee fitting (3).
b.
Detach snorkel breather hose (2) at snorkel (1).
c.
Remove hoses (2, 5) and tee fitting (3) from front
breather bolt (6).
d.
On California models, slide fresh air hose from canister through backplate.
5.
See Figure 22. Remove two screws and snorkel plate.
6.
Remove snorkel.
7.
See Figure 23. Remove screw with spacer and gasket.
8.
Remove backplate.
9.
a.
See Figure 24. Remove two bolts (1), washers (2)
and nuts (3).
b.
Draw rear breather hose through backplate.
c.
Remove front breather bolt. Detach backplate from
motorcycle.
If necessary, remove air cleaner support ring.
a.
Detach breather hose from rear cylinder head
breather bolt.
b.
Loosen rear bolt.
c.
Slide air cleaner support ring upward and remove.
NOTE
Air cleaner support ring fits around breather bolts. Fitting on
rear breather bolt may not clear the frame if bolt removal is
attempted. Do not remove rear breather bolt unless absolutely necessary.
2
1.
2.
Screw and nylon washer
Screw and locknut
Figure 19. Air Cleaner Cover
5883
2
3
1
4
1.
2.
Filter
Filter box
3.
4.
Cover
Rear mount
Figure 20. Inside of Air Cleaner Cover
5881
1
2
4
3
1.
2.
3.
Snorkel
Snorkel breather
Tee fitting
4.
5.
6.
6
Rear head breather
Front head breather
Front breather bolt
Figure 21. Breather Hoses
22
5
INSTALLATION
1.
5884
Install backplate.
a.
Apply HYLOMAR to threads of breather bolts.
b.
Install air cleaner support ring and backplate using
breather bolts. Tighten breather bolts to 10-15 ft-lbs
(13.6-20.3 Nm).
c.
Attach rear breather hose to rear breather bolt.
1
d.
2.
See Figure 24. Install two bolts (1), washers (2) and
nuts (3) through backplate into isolator mount.
See Figure 21. Install breather hoses.
a.
Slide rear breather hose through backplate.
b.
Attach front breather hose (5, with attached tee and
snorkel breather hose) to front breather bolt (6).
c.
Connect rear breather hose (4) to tee fitting (3).
d.
On California models, insert fresh air hose from canister through backplate.
3.
See Figure 23. Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242
(blue) to screw. Install ring with screw through backplate.
Tighten to 7-9 ft-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm).
4.
See Figure 22. Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242
(blue) to screws. Fasten snorkel tube with ring and two
screws. Tighten to 6-8 ft-lbs (8.1-10.8 Nm).
5.
Connect snorkel hose to snorkel tube.
6.
See Figure 20. Check air cleaner filter. Place filter inside
filter box. Place cover assembly over backplate.
7.
See Figure 19. Install screw and washer into top well nut.
8.
Install screw and locknut at rear mount. Tighten to 6-8 ftlbs (8.1-10.8 Nm).
1.
2.
3
1
2
Screw (2)
Snorkel plate
3.
Snorkel
Figure 22. Snorkel Ring
5897
2
1
1.
2.
Air cleaner spacer with gasket
Screw
Figure 23. Air Cleaner Spacer
5898
1
2
3
1.
2.
3.
Bolt (2)
Washer (2)
Nut (2)
4
4.
5.
5
Backplate
Isolator mount
Figure 24. Front Isolator Mount Attachment
23
NOTES
24
SECTION V–ELECTRIC STARTER
SUBJECT
1.
PAGE NO.
Starting System Diagnosis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
This section explains procedures unique to 1997 model S1 Lightnings. Any procedures not found
in this supplement are covered in the 1996 S1 Lightning Service Manual (Part No. 99490-96Y).
25
NOTES
26
STARTING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
— BATTERY TESTS —
●
●
VISUAL
●
VOLTAGE
LOAD
Check Connections at Battery
and Starter Components.
INOPERATIVE
Solenoid Clicks.
Continued on
Next Page
Nothing Clicks.
Relay
Clicks.
Perform Voltage Drop Tests
Between Battery and
“Relay” Terminal on
Solenoid. Less Than 1 Volt?
Test for Voltage at
Solenoid Terminal. Is
12V Present When
Starter Button is
Pressed?
NO
YES
NO
YES
2
Perform Voltage Drop 2
Tests from Battery
(Pos. +) to Starter
“Motor”Terminal.
Crank Engine. Is
Voltage Greater than
1 Volt?
Backtrack to
Pinpoint Poor
Connections or
Relay Contact
Problems Using
Voltage Drop
Tests.
Perform Voltage
Drop Tests from
Battery (Pos. +)
to Starter Motor
“M” (Battery)
Terminal. Crank
Engine. Is
Voltage Greater
than 1 Volt?
2
Does Starter
Motor Turn if
Jumped?
NO
YES
NO
Perform Voltage
Drop Test
Between Battery
(Neg. -) and Starter
Studs or Bolts.
Is Voltage Greater
than 1 Volt?
Replace
Solenoid.
Test Starter
Motor for
Opens,
Shorts or
Grounds.
YES
2
1
Test for Voltage
to Relay. Is 12V
Present on
Relay Terminal
NO
Repair
Connection
Between
Battery and
Starter.
Repair or
Replace
Solenoid
(Contacts).
Clean
Ground
Connections
Relay terminal
Test for Voltage
from Relay. Is 12V
Present on Relay
Terminal 87 When
Starter Button is
Pressed?
Repair Open on
R/BK Wire Feeding
Terminal 30 on
Starter Relay.
YES
NO
Repair Open
on GN Wire
Between Relay
and Solenoid.
Replace
Starter Relay.
Check for Battery Voltage
at Relay Terminal 86 From
Starter Button. Battery
Voltage Present?
YES
NO
Check for
Ground at Relay
Terminal 85.
Ground Present?
Check for Battery Voltage from Starter
Button BK/R Wire. Battery Voltage
Present With Starter Button Pressed?
YES
Substitute
Good Relay
or Test Relay.
Motor terminal
NO
NO
YES
YES
YES
Battery terminal
NO
5
Inspect Starter
Interlock
Circuit or
Correct Relay
Ground.
YES
NO
Repair Wiring
From Starter
Button to Relay.
Check for Battery Voltage to
Starter Button W/BK Wire.
Battery Voltage Present?
YES
NO
Replace
Starter Button.
Repair Wiring to
Starter Button.
27
Continued from
Previous Page
STARTER SPINS, BUT
DOES NOT ENGAGE
RUN-ON
Disconnect Solenoid
“Relay” Terminal from
Solenoid. Is 12V Present
at GN Wire Terminal with
Starter Button NOT
Pressed?
Remove Starter.
Disassemble Drive
Housing Assembly.
Inspect for Damage
to Armature Gear or
Idler Gear. Damage
Present?
YES
NO
Is 12V Present on
Starter Relay Terminal
86 with Starter Button
NOT Pressed?
Replace
Solenoid.
YES
NO
Replace Starter
Button.
Replace Starter
Relay.
YES
NO
Replace
Damaged Gear
and Armature.
Starter Clutch
Failure. Replace
Starter Clutch.
STARTER STALLS OR
SPINS TOO SLOWLY
2
2
Perform Voltage Drop
Tests from Battery (Pos. +)
to Starter “Motor” Terminal.
Crank Engine. Is Voltage Greater
than 1 Volt?
YES
NO
Perform Voltage Drop
Tests from Battery (Pos. +)
to Starter “Battery” Terminal.
Crank Engine. Is Voltage Greater
than 1 Volt?
Perform Voltage Drop Test
Between Battery
(Neg. -) and Starter Studs
or Bolts. Is Voltage Greater
than 1 Volt?
NO
YES
YES
NO
Repair Connection
Between Battery
and Starter.
Repair or
Replace
Solenoid
(Contacts).
3
Clean Ground
Connections.
4
Perform Starter Motor
Current Draw Test (on
Vehicle).
Perform Starter Motor
Free Draw Bench Test. Are
Test Results in Range?
NOTES
28
1
Remove starter motor and connect jumper wires as
described in Free Running Current Draw Test.
2
See Troubleshooting/Diagnostics- Voltage drops.
3
See Starter Current Draw Test.
4
See Free Running Current Draw Test.
5
See Starter Interlock Circuit Test
YES
NO
Inspect Engine or
Primary Drive.
Test Starter
Motor
for Opens,
Shorts or
Grounds.
SECTION VI–DRIVE/TRANSMISSION
All drive/transmission procedures in the 1996 S1 Lightning Service Manual (Part No. 99490-96Y)
apply to 1997 models.
29
NOTES
30
SECTION VII–ELECTRICAL
SUBJECT
1.
2.
3.
4.
PAGE NO.
Handlebar Switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Starter Interlock System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Horn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wiring Harness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
33
34
36
37
This section explains procedures unique to 1997 model S1 Lightnings. Any procedures not found
in this supplement are covered in the 1996 S1 Lightning Service Manual (Part No. 99490-96Y).
31
NOTES
32
HANDLEBAR SWITCHES
MODEL YEAR CHANGE
b0279x7x
All 1997 model year motorcycles use new handlebar
switches. The switches feature new icons, connectors and a
different pin numbering sequence.
Ignition ON
NOTE
All HANDLEBAR SWITCHES, REMOVAL and HANDLEBAR
SWITCHES, INSTALLATION procedures remain the same.
The new switch assemblies are interchangeable between
1996 and 1997 models if the corresponding connector on the
wiring harness is changed.
Ignition OFF
Electric starter
See WIRING HARNESS on page 37 for more information.
RIGHT HANDLEBAR
SWITCH CONNECTOR
P1
Right Handlebar Switch
See Figure 25. The right handlebar switch [P1] contains:
●
Engine stop switch (ignition ON or OFF)
●
Electric starter switch
IGN POWER
IGN MODULE
FROM (2)
TO STARTER
BE
W/R
GN/BK
Y/R
ACC POWER
TO STOPLIGHT
O/W
R/Y
GY
W/BK
W/BK
BK/R
4
3
2
1
P2
O/W
R/Y
1
2
BRAKE SWITCH
Left Handlebar Switch
See Figure 26. The left handlebar switch [P6] contains:
●
Passing lamp switch
●
Headlamp dimmer switch (headlamp HIGH or LOW
beam)
●
Turn signal switch
●
Horn switch
Figure 25. Right Handlebar Switch [P1]
b0274x7x
LEFT HANDLEBAR
SWITCH CONNECTOR
P6
LOW BEAM
LIGHT POWER
HIGH BEAM
W
BN
BK
GN
HORN
FROM FLASHER
BE
LEFT TURN
O
RIGHT TURN
LT.BE
HORN POWER
GY
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Y
BE
W
Y/BK
V/BN
V
BN
O/W
P5
FROM IGN RLY
TO GROUND
R/BE
BK
1
2
TN/GN
BK
CLUTCH SWITCH
Passing lamp
HIGH beam
LOW beam
Turn signals
Horn
Figure 26. Left Handlebar Switch [P6]
33
STARTER INTERLOCK SYSTEM
INSPECTION
NOTE
The starter interlock system is designed to prevent unintended start-up and/or forward motion of the motorcycle with
the vehicle’s side stand not retracted. Use the following two
tests to check the system for proper operation.
The STARTER CIRCUIT and IGNITION CIRCUIT tests
should be performed in one continuous operation. Conduct
both tests one after the other in the sequence given without
interruption
Starter Circuit
Raise rear wheel off floor using REAR WHEEL SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41174).
Remove GN wire from starter motor.
Connect a test light or voltmeter to the vehicle in series.
a.
Attach one end to starter wire terminal.
b.
Attach the other end to vehicle ground.
Set engine stop switch to RUN.
Turn ignition switch to IGN.
Place motorcycle in neutral.
Press starter button on right handlebar.
Is current present? (Current is present if test light illuminates or if voltmeter shows 12 VDC ± 1.0 VDC.)
Check neutral switch and circuit. See NEUTRAL INDICATOR SWITCH in Section 7 of the 1996 manual.
Repeat entire interlock circuit test when finished.
NO
YES
Place motorcycle in first gear.
Press starter button on right handlebar.
Is current present?
YES
Check neutral switch. See NEUTRAL INDICATOR
SWITCH in Section 7 of the 1996 manual. Repeat
entire interlock circuit test when finished.
NO
Check clutch switch. See STARTER INTERLOCK in
Section 7 of the 1996 manual. Repeat entire interlock
circuit test when finished.
YES
Check clutch switch. See STARTER INTERLOCK in
Section 7 of the 1996 manual. Repeat entire interlock
circuit test when finished.
NO
Disengage clutch lever by pulling lever in fully.
Press starter button on right handlebar.
Is current present?
YES
Release clutch lever.
Press starter button on right handlebar.
Is current present?
Starter circuit operating properly.
No
34
a.
Turn ignition switch to LOCK.
b.
Remove test light or voltmeter.
c.
Reattach starter motor wire.
Proceed to IGNITION CIRCUIT
on page 35.
Ignition Circuit
Remove W/BK wire from ignition coil.
Connect a test light or voltmeter to the vehicle.
a.
Attach one end to W/BK wire terminal.
b.
Attach the other end to vehicle ground.
Turn ignition switch to IGN.
Set engine stop switch to RUN.
Place motorcycle in neutral. Is current present?
YES
Check neutral switch and circuit. See NEUTRAL INDICATOR SWITCH in Section 7 of the 1996 manual.
Repeat entire ignition portion of interlock circuit test
when finished.
NO
Place motorcycle in first gear.
Is current present?
YES
Check neutral switch. See NEUTRAL INDICATOR
SWITCH in Section 7 of the 1996 manual. Repeat
entire ignition portion of interlock circuit test when finished.
NO
Check side stand switch. See STARTER INTERLOCK
in Section 7 of the 1996 manual. Repeat entire ignition
portion of interlock circuit test when finished.
NO
Check clutch switch. See STARTER INTERLOCK in
Section 7 of the 1996 manual. Repeat entire ignition
portion of interlock circuit test when finished.
NO
Retract side stand.
Is current present?
YES
Extend side stand.
Pull-in clutch lever. Is current present?
YES
Ignition circuit operating properly.
a.
Turn ignition switch to LOCK.
a.
Set engine stop switch to OFF.
b.
Remove test light or voltmeter.
c.
Reconnect W/BK wire to ignition coil.
d.
Remove REAR WHEEL SUPPORT STAND.
35
HORN
MODEL YEAR CHANGE
5882
See Figure 27. All 1997 model year motorcycles have a new
horn in a new location.
NOTE
For troubleshooting information, see HORN, TROUBLESHOOTING in Section 7 in the 1996 manual.
REMOVAL
1.
Remove seat and fuel tank. See FUEL TANK, REMOVAL
in Section 4 of the 1996 manual.
2.
See Figure 28. Detach horn wires.
3.
a.
Disconnect Y/BK power wire (5).
b.
Disconnect BK ground wire (6).
Remove bolt (1), lockwasher (2) and washer (3) to
detach horn and bracket from frame.
Figure 27. Horn Location
5875
INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 28. Attach horn assembly to frame using
bolt (1), lockwasher (2) and washer (3).
2.
Connect horn wires.
a.
Attach Y/BK power wire (5).
b.
Attach BK ground wire (6).
2
3
1
4
1WARNING
After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be
sure it is locked in position. If seat is loose, it could shift
during vehicle operation and startle the rider, causing
loss of control and personal injury.
3.
Install fuel tank and seat. See FUEL TANK, INSTALLATION in Section 4 of the 1996 manual.
6
5
1.
2.
3.
Bolt
Lockwasher
Washer
4.
5.
6.
Adjuster
Power wire (Y/BK)
Ground wire (BK)
Figure 28. Horn Attachment
36
WIRING HARNESS
MODEL YEAR CHANGE
The following changes were made to the wiring harness for
1997 model year motorcycles.
●
New connectors and a different pin numbering sequence
for the right handlebar switch [P1] and the left handlebar
switch [P6]. See HANDLEBAR SWITCHES on page 33.
●
Longer wires leading to the horn to accommodate the
new mounting position.
Table 3. Electrical Connectors
CONNECTOR
NUMBER
DESCRIPTION
COMPONENT(S)
[P1]
4-place connector
right handlebar switch housing-ignition power, module and starter
[P2]
2-place Amp Multilock
front brake switch
[P3]
12-place Amp Multilock
instruments and indicator lamps
[P4]
4-place Amp Multilock
headlamp
[P5]
2-place Amp Multilock
clutch switch
[P6]
8-place connector
left handlebar switch housing-horn, turn signals, lights
[P7]
2-place Deutsch
vacuum-operated electric switch
[P8]
4-place PED
ignition/headlamp switch
[P9]
4-slot fuse block
four 15 amp fuses-ignition, instruments, lights and accessories
[P10]
8-place Deutsch
ignition module
[P11]
8-place Amp Multilock
tail lamp and rear turn signals
[P12]
4-place relay
ignition relay
[P13]
4-place relay
starter relay
[P14]
2-place Amp Multilock
side stand switch
[P15]
2-place Amp Multilock
license plate light
[P16]
3-place Deutsch
timer and pickup
[P17]
2-place plug
voltage regulator
37
38
b0245a7x
BN
BK
RIGHT
TURN
FLASHER
VACUUM SWITCH
OIL
PRESSURE
TIMER AND PICKUP
BK
BK
O/W
HIGH BEAM
W
BK
LEFT TURN
V
BK
P7
2 1
BK
R/W
Y/BK
HORN
V/BN
TN
O
BK
V/W
NEUTRAL
BK
V/W
GN/W
PK
R/W
BK/W
W/BK
SPEEDOMETER
ELECTRONIC IGNITION
GN/Y
O
O/W
BK/W
R/Y
GN/Y
TN
GN/W
IGN POWER
IGN MODULE
FROM (2)
TO STARTER
BE
W/R
GN/BK
Y/R
GY
W/BK
W/BK
BK/R
4
3
2
1
P2
ACC POWER
O/W
TO STOPLIGHT R/Y
O/W
W/GN
BK
O
PK
TACHOMETER
O/W
R/Y
1
2
R/Y
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
BK
V/W
GN/W
PK
R/W
BK/W
W/BK
P1
P10
A B C
P16
NEUTRAL
SWITCH
P3
12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
OIL PRESSURE
SWITCH
REAR
STOPLIGHT
SWITCH
O/W
BK
BK
O
GN/Y
TN
PK
O
V
W
BN
BRAKE SWITCH
S8
BK
P14
RIGHT FRONT
TURN SIGNAL
R/BK
BN
BE
BK
TN/W
2 1
BK W
BN
BK
S6
RIGHT REAR
TURN SIGNAL
LT.BE
BE
SIDE STAND
SWITCH
POSITION LMP
HIGH BEAM
LOW BEAM
LMP GROUND
O/W
W
Y
BK
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
BN
O/W
V
BK
BK
R/Y
P4
O/W
W
Y
BK
S9
BK
BN
O/W
V
BK
BK
R/Y
TAIL LAMP
BK
R/Y
P11
BK
O/W
S2
P15
BE
BK
S4
HEADLAMP
1
2
BE
BK
Y
BK
LICENSE PLATE
LIGHT
LEFT FRONT
TURN SIGNAL
LT.BE
V
BE
BK
S1
S5
TN
S3
V
BK
S13
S11
S12
TN
TN/GN
S10
TN/GN
MASTER
30A CIRCUIT
BREAKER
Y
BE
W
BK
S7
Y/BK
V/BK
V
BN
O/W
TN/GN
S14
P5
FROM IGN RLY R/BE
TO GROUND
BK
1
2
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
S15
TN/GN
BK
GN
TN/W
GY
R
R/GY
R/BK
GN
BE
FROM FLASHER
LEFT TURN
O
RIGHT TURN
LT.BE
HORN POWER
GY
P13
PK
TN/W
P8
CLUTCH SWITCH
PK
VIEW FROM FUSE
INSERTION SIDE
P12
W/BK
TN/GN
BK/R
A
B
C
D
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
HORN
R
R/GY
R/B K
W
BN
BK
BK
R
TN/GN
P6
LOW BEAM
LIGHT POWER
HIGH BEAM
LEFT REAR
TURN SIGNAL
R/BK
BE
MAIN CHASSIS GROUND
GN
BK
BK
COIL
BK
IGNITION
GY/O
R/BK
15A
LT.BE
COLOR CODE:
R/BK
LIGHT BLUE
BE
BLUE
GY
GRAY
TN
TAN
BK
BLACK
O
ORANGE
V
VIOLET
BN
BROWN
PK
PINK
W
WHITE
GN
GREEN
R
RED
Y
YELLOW
GY/O
REAR PLUG
GY/O
GY/O
XX
XX
STRIPE COLOR
PIN CONNECTOR
SOCKET CONNECTOR
P17
R/BK
15A
86
DIODE
NO CONNECTION
CONNECTION
1 2
INSTRUMENTS
O
FRONT PLUG
85
87
TN/W
TN/W
LIGHTS
R/BK
86
BK/R
BE
87
R/BK
TN/GN
GN
KEY SWITCH
30
ACCESSORIES
O/W
O/W
85
BK
15A
GY
30
87A
CABLE COLOR
O
GY/O
R/GY
15A
87A
R/BK
BK
IGN
IGNITION RELAY
FUSE BLOCK
P9
STARTER RELAY
R/GY
R
OFF
LOCK
BATTERY
STATOR
1997 BUELL WIRING DIAGRAM
6/10/96
Figure 29. 1997 Wiring Diagram
FOREWORD
GENERAL
PREPARATION FOR SERVICE
This Service Manual Supplement has been prepared with two
purposes in mind. First, it will acquaint the user with the
construction of the 1997 Buell S1 Lightning and assist in the
performance of basic maintenance and repair. Secondly, it
will introduce to the professional Buell Technician the latest
field-tested and factory-approved major repair methods. We
sincerely believe that this Service Manual Supplement will
make your association with Buell products more pleasant and
profitable.
HOW TO USE YOUR SERVICE
MANUAL SUPPLEMENT
1.
Check the TABLE OF CONTENTS following this
FORWORD to find the desired subject.
2.
If the information you seek is not in this supplement, refer
to the corresponding section in the Buell 1996
S1 Lightning Service Manual (Part No. 99490-96Y).
Check the TABLE OF CONTENTS or INDEX to find the
desired subject.
3.
Information is presented in a definite order as follows:
Specifications
General/Model Year Change
Adjustment/Testing
Removal/Disassembly
Cleaning, Inspection, and Repair
Assembly/Installation
In figure legends, the number which follows the name of a
part indicates the quantity necessary for one complete
assembly.
NOTE
To avoid needless disassembly, carefully read all relative
service information before repair work is started.
1WARNING
Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive.
Always stop the engine when refueling or servicing the
fuel system. Do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks
near the work site. Inadequate safety precautions may
result in personal injury.
Good preparation is very important for efficient service work.
A clean work area at the start of each job will allow you to
perform the repair as easily and quickly as possible, and will
reduce the incidence of misplaced tools and parts. A
motorcycle that is excessively dirty should be cleaned before
work starts. Cleaning will occasionally uncover sources of
trouble. Tools, instruments and any parts needed for the job
should be gathered before work is started. Interrupting a job
to locate tools or parts is an unnecessary distraction and
causes needless delay.
SERVICE BULLETINS
In addition to the information presented in this Service
Supplement, Buell Distribution Corporation will periodically
issue Service Bulletins to Buell dealers. Service Bulletins
cover interim engineering changes and supplementary
information.
USE GENUINE
REPLACEMENT PARTS
1WARNING
When replacement parts are required, use only genuine
Buell parts or parts with equivalent characteristics
(which include type, strength and material). Failure to do
so may result in product malfunction and possible injury
to the operator and/or passenger.
To ensure satisfactory and lasting repairs, carefully follow the
instructions and use only genuine Buell replacement parts.
This is your assurance that the parts you are using will fit
right, operate properly and last longer.
i.
PRODUCT REFERENCES
1WARNING
Follow the directions listed on all products. Carefully
read all labels, warnings and cautions before use.
Inadequate safety precautions may result in personal
injury.
When reference is made in this Service Manual Supplement
to a specific brand name product, tool or instrument, an
equivalent product, tool or instrument may be substituted.
WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS
Statements in this supplement preceded by the word
“1WARNING” or “1CAUTION” are very important. Since
these items alert you to situations where the possibility of
personal injury or vehicle damage exists, please take special
notice of them.
1WARNING
A “WARNING” indicates the potential for personal injury,
whether to yourself or others.
1CAUTION
A “CAUTION” indicates that vehicle damage can occur.
Kent-Moore Products
All tools mentioned in this supplement with an “HD”, “J” or “B”
preface must be ordered through:
1WARNING
●
Proper service and repair is important for the safe,
reliable operation of all mechanical products. The
service procedures recommended and described in
this Service Manual are effective methods for
performing service operations. Some of these
service operations require the use of tools specially
designed for the purpose. These special tools should
be used when and as recommended. It is important
to note that some warnings against the use of
specific service methods, which could damage the
motorcycle or render it unsafe, are stated in this
Service Manual. However, please remember that
these warnings are not all-inclusive.
●
Since Buell could not possibly know, evaluate or
advise the service trade of all possible ways in which
service might be performed, or of the possible
hazardous consequences of each method, we have
not undertaken any such broad evaluation.
Accordingly, anyone who uses a service procedure
or tool which is not recommended by Buell must first
thoroughly satisfy himself that neither his nor the
operator’s safety will be jeopardized as a result.
●
Wear eye protection when using hammers, arbor or
hydraulic presses, gear pullers, spring compressors,
slide hammers and similar tools. Be especially
cautious when using pulling, pressing or
compressing equipment. The forces involved can
cause parts to fly outward with considerable force,
possibly resulting in personal injury.
Kent-Moore
SPX Corporation
29784 Little Mack
Roseville, Michigan 48066-2298
Telephone: 1-800-345-2233
Sealing and Threadlocking Products
LOCTITE PRODUCTS
Some procedures call for the use of Loctite® products. If you
have any questions regarding Loctite product usage or
retailer/wholesaler locations, please call Loctite Corp. at 1800-323-5106.
CONTENTS
All photographs and illustrations may not necessarily depict
the most current model or component, but are based on the
latest production information available at the time of
publication.
Since product improvement is our continual goal, Buell
reserves the right to change specifications, equipment or
designs at any time without notice and without incurring
obligation.
Buell products are manufactured under one or more of the following patents: U.S. Patents – 2986161, 2987934,
2998809, 3116089, 3144531, 3144860, 3226994, 3229792, 3434887, 3559773, 3673359, 3709317, Des. 225 626.
ii.
GENERAL
1
SERVICING A NEW MOTORCYCLE
1WARNING
Always follow the listed service and maintenance
recommendations, since they affect the safe operation of
the motorcycle and the personal welfare of the rider.
Failure to follow recommendations may cause personal
injury.
Service operations to be performed before customer delivery
are specified in the applicable model year PREDELIVERY
AND SETUP MANUAL.
The performance of new motorcycle initial service is required
to keep warranty in force and to ensure proper emissions
systems operation.
After a new motorcycle has been driven its first 500 miles,
and again at 2500 mile intervals, a Buell dealer should
perform the service operations listed in the REGULAR
MAINTENANCE INTERVALS chart on page 1-9.
SAFE OPERATING MAINTENANCE
A careful check of certain equipment is necessary after
periods of storage, and frequently between regular service
intervals, to determine if additional maintenance is required.
1CAUTION
●
Do not attempt to retighten engine head bolts.
Retightening can cause engine damage.
●
During the initial 500 mile (800 km) break-in period,
use only 20W50 engine oil. Failure to use the
recommended oil will result in improper break-in of
the engine cylinders and piston rings.
●
Do not lubricate the enrichment cable on C.V.
carburetors. The cable requires friction to operate
properly.
SHOP PRACTICES
Repair Notes
●
NOTE
General maintenance practices are given in this section.
●
Repair = Disassembly/Assembly.
●
Replace = Removal/Installation.
All special tools and torque values are noted at the point of
use.
All required parts or materials can be found in the appropriate
PARTS CATALOG.
Safety
Safety is always the most important consideration when
performing any job. Be sure you have a complete
understanding of the task to be performed. Use common
sense. Use the proper tools. Protect yourself and bystanders
with approved eye protection. Don’t just do the job – do the
job safely.
Removing Parts
Always consider the weight of a part when lifting. Use a hoist
whenever necessary. Do not lift heavy parts by hand. A hoist
and adjustable lifting beam or sling are needed to remove
some parts. The lengths of chains or cables from the hoist to
the part should be equal and parallel and should be
positioned directly over the center of the part. Be sure that no
obstructions will interfere with the lifting operation. Never
leave a part suspended in mid-air.
Always use blocking or proper stands to support the part that
has been hoisted. If a part cannot be removed, verify that all
bolts and attaching hardware have been removed. Check to
see if any parts are in the way of the part being removed.
When removing hoses, wiring or tubes, always tag each part
to ensure proper installation.
Check:
Cleaning
1.
Tires for abrasions, cuts and correct pressure.
2.
Secondary drive belt for proper tension and condition.
3.
Brakes, steering and throttle for responsiveness.
4.
Brake fluid level and condition. Hydraulic lines and
fittings for leaks. Also, check brake pads and rotors for
wear.
If you intend to reuse parts, follow good shop practice and
thoroughly clean the parts before assembly. Keep all dirt out
of parts; the unit will perform better and last longer. Seals,
filters and covers are used in this vehicle to keep out
environmental dirt and dust. These items must be kept in
good condition to ensure satisfactory operation.
5.
Cables for fraying, crimping and free operation.
6.
Engine oil and transmission fluid levels.
7.
Headlamp, passing lamp, tail lamp, brake lamp and turn
signal operation.
Clean and inspect all parts as they are removed. Be sure all
holes and passages are clean and open. After cleaning,
cover all parts with clean lint-free cloth, paper or other
material. Be sure the part is clean when it is installed.
Always clean around lines or covers before they are removed.
Plug, tape or cap holes and openings to keep out dirt, dust
and debris.
1-1
Disassembly and Assembly
Bushings
Always assemble or disassemble one part at a time. Do not
work on two assemblies simultaneously. Be sure to make all
necessary adjustments. Recheck your work when finished.
Be sure that everything is done.
Do not remove a bushing unless damaged, excessively worn
or loose in its bore. Press out bushings that must be replaced.
Operate the vehicle to perform any final check or
adjustments. If all is correct, the vehicle is ready to go back to
the customer.
REPAIR AND REPLACEMENT
PROCEDURES
Hardware and Threaded Parts
Install helical thread inserts when inside threads in castings
are stripped, damaged or not capable of withstanding
specified torque.
Replace bolts, nuts, studs, washers, spacers and small
common hardware if missing or in any way damaged. Clean
up or repair minor thread damage with a suitable tap or die.
Replace all damaged or missing lubrication fittings.
Use Teflon pipe sealant on pipe fitting threads.
Wiring, Hoses and Lines
Replace hoses, clamps, electrical wiring, electrical switches
or fuel lines if they do not meet specifications.
When pressing or driving bushings, be sure to apply pressure
in line with the bushing bore. Use a bearing/bushing driver or
a bar with a smooth, flat end. Never use a hammer to drive
bushings.
Inspect the bushing and the mated part for oil holes. Be sure
all oil holes are properly aligned.
Gaskets
Always discard gaskets after removal. Replace with new
gaskets. Never use the same gasket twice. Be sure that
gasket holes match up with holes in the mating part.
Lip Type Seals
Lip seals are used to seal oil or grease and are usually
installed with the sealing lip facing the contained lubricant.
Seal orientation, however, may vary under different
applications.
Seals should not be removed unless necessary. Only remove
seals if required to gain access to other parts or if seal
damage or wear dictates replacement.
Leaking oil or grease usually means that a seal is damaged.
Replace leaking seals to prevent overheated bearings.
Instruments and Gauges
Always discard seals after removal. Do not use the same seal
twice.
Replace broken or defective instruments and gauges.
Replace dials and glass that are so scratched or discolored
that reading is difficult.
O-Rings (Preformed Packings)
Bearings
Anti-friction bearings must be handled in a special way. To
keep out dirt and abrasives, cover the bearings as soon as
they are removed from the package.
Wash bearings in a non-flammable cleaning solution. Knock
out packed lubricant inside by tapping the bearing against a
wooden block. Wash bearings again. Cover bearings with
clean material after setting them down to dry. Never use
compressed air to dry bearings.
Coat bearings with clean oil. Wrap bearings in clean paper.
Be sure that the chamfered side of the bearing always faces
the shoulder (when bearings installed against shoulders).
Lubricate bearings and all metal contact surfaces before
pressing into place. Only apply pressure on the part of the
bearing that makes direct contact with the mating part.
Always use the proper tools and fixtures for removing and
installing bearings.
Bearings do not usually need to be removed. Only remove
bearings if necessary.
1-2
Always discard O-rings after removal. Replace with new Orings. To prevent leaks, lubricate the O-rings before
installation. Apply the same type of lubricant as that being
sealed. Be sure that all gasket, O-ring and seal mating
surfaces are thoroughly clean before installation.
Gears
Always check gears for damaged or worn teeth.
Lubricate mating surfaces before pressing gears on shafts.
Shafts
If a shaft does not come out easily, check that all nuts, bolts or
retaining rings have been removed. Check to see if other
parts are in the way before using force.
Shafts fitted to tapered splines should be very tight. If shafts
are not tight, disassemble and inspect tapered splines.
Discard parts that are worn. Be sure tapered splines are
clean, dry and free of burrs before putting them in place.
Press mating parts together tightly.
Clean all rust from the machined surfaces of new parts.
Part Replacement
●
Disconnect the air supply line to an air hammer before
attaching a bit.
●
Never point an air tool at yourself or another person.
CLEANING
●
Protect bystanders with approved eye protection.
Part Protection
Wrenches
Always replace worn or damaged parts with new parts.
Before cleaning, protect rubber parts (such as hoses, boots
and electrical insulation) from cleaning solutions. Use a
grease-proof barrier material. Remove the rubber part if it
cannot be properly protected.
●
Never use an extension on a wrench handle.
●
If possible, always pull on a wrench handle and adjust
your stance to prevent a fall if something lets go.
Cleaning Process
●
Never cock a wrench.
Any cleaning method may be used as long as it does not
result in parts damage. Thorough cleaning is necessary for
proper parts inspection. Strip rusted paint areas to bare metal
before repainting.
●
Never use a hammer on any wrench other than a
STRIKING FACE wrench.
●
Discard any wrench with broken or battered points.
Rust or Corrosion Removal
●
Never use a pipe wrench to bend, raise or lift a pipe.
Remove rust and corrosion with a wire brush, abrasive cloth,
sand blasting, vapor blasting or rust remover. Use buffing
crocus cloth on highly polished parts that are rusted.
Pliers/cutters/prybars
●
Plastic- or vinyl-covered pliers handles are not intended
to act as insulation; don’t use on live electrical circuits.
●
Don’t use pliers or cutters for cutting hardened wire
unless they were designed for that purpose.
●
Always cut at right angles.
●
Don’t use any prybar as a chisel, punch or hammer.
Bearings
Remove shields and seals from bearings before cleaning.
Clean bearings with permanent shields and seals in solution.
Clean open bearings by soaking them in a petroleum
cleaning solution. Never use a solution that contains chlorine.
Let bearings stand and dry. Do not dry using compressed air.
Do not spin bearings while they are drying.
Hammers
TOOL SAFETY
●
Never strike one hammer against a hardened object,
such as another hammer.
Air Tools
●
Always grasp a hammer handle firmly, close to the end.
●
Strike the object with the full face of the hammer.
●
Never work with a hammer which has a loose head.
●
Discard hammer if face is chipped or mushroomed.
●
Wear approved eye protection when using striking tools.
●
Protect bystanders with approved eye protection.
●
Always use approved eye protection equipment when
performing any task using air-operated tools.
●
On all power tools, use only recommended accessories
with proper capacity ratings.
●
Do not exceed air pressure ratings of any power tools.
●
Bits should be placed against work surface before air
hammers are operated.
1-3
Punches/chisels
●
Never use a punch or chisel with a chipped or
mushroomed end; dress mushroomed chisels and
punches with a file.
●
Hold a chisel or a punch with a tool holder if possible.
●
When using a chisel on a small piece, clamp the piece
firmly in a vise and chip toward the stationary jaw.
●
Wear approved eye protection when using these tools.
●
Protect bystanders with approved eye protection.
Screwdrivers
●
Don’t use a screwdriver for prying, punching, chiseling,
scoring or scraping.
●
Use the right type of screwdriver for the job; match the tip
to the fastener.
●
Don’t interchange POZIDRIV®, PHILLIPS® or REED
AND PRINCE screwdrivers.
●
Screwdriver handles are not intended to act as
insulation; don’t use on live electrical circuits.
●
Don’t use a screwdriver with rounded edges because it
will slip – redress with a file.
●
Always support the ratchet head when using socket
extensions, but do not put your hand on the head or you
may interfere with the action of its reversing mechanism.
●
When breaking loose a fastener, apply a small amount of
pressure as a test to be sure the ratchet’s gear wheel is
engaged with the pawl.
Sockets
●
Never use hand sockets on power or impact wrenches.
●
Select the right size socket for the job.
●
Never cock any wrench or socket.
●
Select only impact sockets for use with air or electric
impact wrenches.
●
Replace sockets showing cracks or wear.
●
Keep sockets clean.
●
Always use approved eye protection when using power
or impact sockets.
Storage Units
●
Don’t open more than one loaded drawer at a time. Close
each drawer before opening up another.
Periodically clean and lubricate ratchet mechanisms with
a light grade oil. Do not replace parts individually;
ratchets should be rebuilt with the entire contents of
service kit.
●
Close lids and lock drawers and doors before moving
storage units.
●
Don’t pull on a tool cabinet; push it in front of you.
Never hammer or put a pipe extension on a ratchet or
handle for added leverage.
●
Set the brakes on the locking casters after the cabinet
has been rolled to your work.
Ratchets and Handles
●
●
1-4
1996 S1 LIGHTNING SPECIFICATIONS
I
DIMENSIONS
IN.
MM
55
1397
Spark plugs
Overall length
79.5
2019
Size
Overall width
30
762
Gap
Road clearance
5.2
132
Seat height
29.5
749
Wheel base
IGNITION SYSTEM
No. 6R12
12 mm
0.038-0.045 in.
TRANSMISSION
Type
Constant Mesh, Foot Shift
Speeds
CAPACITIES
U.S.
LITERS
Fuel tank (including reserve)
4.0 gallons
15.14
Reserve
0.6 gallons
2.27
Oil tank
2.0 quarts
1.89
Transmission
1.0 quart
0.95
WEIGHT
LBS.
KG
S1 shipping weight
446
202
GVWR
820
372
GAWR - Front
340
154
GAWR - Rear
480
218
NOTE
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) (maximum allowable
loaded vehicle weight) and corresponding Gross Axle Weight
Ratings (GAWR) are given on an information decal located on
the front frame steering head.
ENGINE
NUMBER OF SPROCKET TEETH
Engine
35
Clutch
56
Transmission
27
Rear wheel
61
Belt
128
TRANSMISSION GEAR RATIOS
FINAL*
OVERALL**
First (low) gear
2.69
9.717
Second gear
1.97
7.118
Third gear
1.43
5.180
Fourth gear
1.18
4.269
Fifth (high) gear
1.00
3.615
*Final gear ratios indicate number of mainshaft revolutions
required to drive output sprocket one revolution.
**Overall gear ratios indicate number of engine revolutions
required to drive rear wheel one revolution.
PRESSURE
FOR SOLO
RIDING
PRESSURE
AT GVWR
Front-Dunlop Sportmax
Radial II 120/70 ZR 17
32 PSI
(2.2 bar)
36 PSI
(2.5 bar)
Rear-Dunlop Sportmax
Radial II 170/60 ZR 17
36 PSI
(2.5 bar)
38 PSI
(2.8 bar)
2
Type
4-Cycle, 45 Degree V-Type
Bore
3.498 in.
88.849 mm
Stroke
3.8125 in.
96.838 mm
Piston displacement
73.4 cu. in.
1203 cc
Compression ratio
5 Forward
TIRE AND POSITION
Number of cylinders
10.0 to 1
Horsepower @ RPM
91 @ 5800
Torque ft-lb @ RPM
87 @ 5200
0.97-1.14 mm
1WARNING
Do not inflate any tire beyond its maximum inflation
pressure as specified on tire sidewall. Overinflation may
cause tire to suddenly deflate leading to personal injury.
1-5
SIDE VIEWS
5745
6
2
3
4
5
7
8
1
9
10
15
14
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Right rear turn signal
Tail/brake lamp
Rear brake master cylinder
and reservoir
Air cleaner cover
Fuel filler cap
13
12
11
12.
13.
14.
15.
Front brake master cylinder
Front brake hand lever
Right front turn signal
Headlamp
Front brake caliper
Timer cover
Rear shock absorber
Rear brake pedal
Belt guard(s)
License plate light
Figure 1-1. 1996 S1 Lightning, Right Side View
5746
7
3 4
5
8
6
2
1
9
14
1.
2.
3.
4.
Rear axle adjuster nut
Rear sprocket and secondary
drive belt
Ignition module
Fuse block and spare fuse
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
13
12 11
10
Turn signal flasher
Horn
Front brake master cylinder
Front brake hand lever
Front brake caliper
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
Oil pump
Battery
Voltage regulator
Rider footrest
Passenger footrest
Figure 1-2. 1996 S1 Lightning, Right Side View (Body Removed)
1-6
5747
4
3
5
6
7
8
2
9
1
10
13
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Left front turn signal
Headlamp
Instruments
Clutch hand lever
Fuel filler cap
12
11
Ignition/headlamp key switch
Fuel supply valve
Tail/brake lamp
Left rear turn signal
Rear brake caliper
11. Gear shift lever
12. Exhaust muffler
13. Oil filter
Figure 1-3. 1996 S1 Lightning, Left Side View
5748
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
15
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Steering head lock
Instruments
Clutch hand lever
Ignition coil
Enrichener knob
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
14
13
Starter relay
Oil filler plug/dipstick
Oil tank
Rear brake caliper
Rear axle adjuster nut
12
11
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Oil tank drain hose
Gear shift lever
Exhaust muffler
Oil filter
Speedometer drive
Figure 1-4. 1996 S1 Lightning, Left Side View (Body Removed)
1-7
FLUID REQUIREMENTS
GENERAL
FRONT FORK OIL
United States System
Use only WP FORK OIL, 5 WEIGHT.
Unless otherwise specified, all fluid volume measurements
in this Service Manual are expressed in United States
(U.S.) units-of-measure. See below:
●
●
●
1 pint (U.S.) = 16 fluid ounces (U.S.)
1 quart (U.S.) = 2 pints (U.S.) = 32 fl. oz. (U.S.)
1 gallon (U.S.) = 4 quarts (U.S.) = 128 fl. oz. (U.S.)
Metric System
Fluid volume measurements in this Service Manual include
the metric system equivalents. In the metric system, 1 liter
(L) = 1,000 milliliters (mL). Should you need to convert from
U.S. units-of-measure to metric units-of-measure (or vice
versa), refer to the following:
●
●
●
●
●
fluid ounces (U.S.) x 29.574 = milliliters
pints (U.S.) x 0.473 = liters
quarts (U.S.) x 0.946 = liters
gallons (U.S.) x 3.785 = liters
milliliters x 0.0338 = fluid ounces (U.S.)
liters x 2.114 = pints (U.S.)
liters x 1.057 = quarts (U.S.)
liters x 0.264 = gallons (U.S.)
FUEL
Use a good quality leaded or unleaded gasoline (91 pump
octane or higher). Pump octane is the octane number usually
shown on the gas pump. See ENGINE in Section 3 for a
detailed explanation of alternative fuels.
ENGINE OIL
Use the proper grade of oil for the lowest temperature
expected before the next oil change.
Table 1-1. Recommended Oil Grades
VISCOSITY
HARLEYDAVIDSON
RATING
LOWEST
AMBIENT
TEMP.
COLD
WEATHER
STARTS
BELOW
50° F
H.D. Multi-Grade
HD 240
Below 40°F
(4°C)
Excellent
STEERING HEAD BEARING
GREASE
SAE
10W40
H.D. Multi-Grade
SAE
20W50
HD 240
Above 40°
(4°C)
Good
Use WHEEL BEARING GREASE (Part No. 99855-89).
H.D. Regular Heavy
SAE
50
HD 240
Above 60°
(16°C)
Poor
●
●
●
HARLEYDAVIDSON TYPE
H.D. Extra Heavy
BRAKE FLUID
1WARNING
SAE
60
HD 240
80°
Above
(27°C)
Poor
D.O.T. 5 SILICONE HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID can cause
eye irritation. In case of contact with eyes, flush with
plenty of water and get medical attention. KEEP BRAKE
FLUID OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN!
PRIMARY DRIVE/TRANSMISSION
LUBRICANT
Use only D.O.T. 5 SILICONE HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID
(Part No. 99902-77).
Use only SPORT-TRANS FLUID (Part No. 98854-96 quart
size or Part No. 98855-96 gallon size).
1-8
Table 1-2. Regular Maintenance Intervals
SERVICE OPERATIONS
AND SPECIAL TOOLS
P
r
e
r
i
d
e
Battery connections (page 1-13)
I
Engine oil (page 1-15)
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
2
3
2
5
7
0
2
5
7
0
2
5
7
0
5
5
0
5
0
5
0
5
0
5
0
5
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi
1
1
2
2
2
3
3
4
4
4
4
8
2
6
0
4
8
2
6
0
4
8
8
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
km km km km km km km km km km km km km
A
n
n
u
a
l
SERVICE DATA
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
Torque
30-40 in-lbs (3.4-4.5 Nm)-hold cables when tightening
R
I
R
I
R
I
R
I
R
I
R
I
R
R See Recommended Oil Grades on page 1-15.
Checking oil level
Check with vehicle at operating temperature, engine off, motorcycle upright
(not on side stand) on a level surface.
OIL FILTER WRENCH (Part No. HD-41215)
Oil level
Between upper and lower marks on dipstick (1/2 quart [0.47 liter] difference).
Oil capacity
2.0 quarts (1.9 liters)
Oil filter (page 1-16)
R
R
R
R
R
R
R
R Hand tighten filter 1/2-3/4 turn after gasket contacts surface.
Brake fluid level and condition (page 1-17)
I
I
I
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I
I
I
Fluid type
D.O.T. 5 SILICONE HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID
Front master cylinder level
Above LOW mark on sight glass or within 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) of molded boss
when cover is removed.
Rear master cylinder level
Between upper and lower marks on reservoir.
Rear brake pedal height adjustment and freeplay
(page 1-17)
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
Maximum freeplay
1/8 in. (3.2 mm)
Pedal action should be smooth and not binding.
I
Brake pads and rotors for wear (page 1-17)
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
Minimum brake pad thickness
1/16 in. (1.6 mm)
Minimum front rotor thickness
0.17 in. (4.4 mm)
Minimum rear rotor thickness
0.19 in. (4.8 mm)
Condition of rear brake caliper mounting pins and boots
IL
IL
1-9
Table Code:
A - Adjust.
I - Inspect, and if necessary, correct, adjust, clean or replace.
L - Lubricate with specified lubricant.
IL
IL
IL
IL
R - Replace or change.
T - Tighten to proper torque.
X - Perform.
1-10
SERVICE OPERATIONS
AND SPECIAL TOOLS
Tire pressure and inspect tire for wear/damage
P
r
e
r
i
d
e
I
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
2
3
2
5
7
0
2
5
7
0
2
5
7
0
5
5
0
5
0
5
0
5
0
5
0
5
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi
1
1
2
2
2
3
3
4
4
4
4
8
2
6
0
4
8
2
6
0
4
8
8
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
km km km km km km km km km km km km km
I
I
I
I
I
R
I
R
I
R
Wheel bearings (page 1-18)
I
I
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I
R
I
R
I
Primary chaincase/transmission lubricant (page 1-19)
I
I
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R
I
R
I
I
REAR WHEEL SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41174)
A
n
n
u
a
l
SERVICE DATA
See Tire Pressures on page 1-18.
I
Check for wear and corrosion. Replace in sets only.
Fluid type and amount
1.0 quart (0.95 liter) of SPORT-TRANS FLUID
(Part No. 98854-96)
Fluid level
Lubricant should reach bottom of clutch spring with motorcycle upright
(not on side stand).
Drain plug torque
14-21 ft-lbs (19-28 Nm)
A
Clutch adjustment (page 1-20)
A
A
A
A
A
A
Hand lever freeplay
1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2 mm)
Clutch inspection cover screw torque
7-9 ft-lbs (9-12 Nm)
I
Rear belt deflection (page 1-21)
A
I
I
I
I
I
I
BELT TENSION GAUGE (Part No. HD-35381)
Belt deflection with 10 lbs (4.5 kg) of upward force
7/8-1 in. (22.2-25.4 mm)
Rear axle nut torque
68-73 ft-lbs (89.5-98.9 Nm)
I
Primary chain (page 1-22)
I
I
I
I
I
I
Chain freeplay with hot engine
1/4-3/8 in. (6.4-9.5 mm)
Chain freeplay with cold engine
3/8-1/2 in. (9.5-12.7 mm)
Inspection screws torque
40-60 in-lbs (4.5-6.8 Nm)
Rear shock absorber (page 1-24)
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
Steering head bearing adjustment (page 1-25)
I
I
IL
I
IL
I
IL
FRONT WHEEL SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41395)
& S1 ADAPTER (B-41686)
Table Code:
A - Adjust.
I - Inspect, and if necessary, correct, adjust, clean or replace.
L - Lubricate with specified lubricant.
Check for bushing wear and loose mounting hardware.
Force to pull front wheel to center
3.5-5.5 ft-lbs (1.6-2.5 kg)
Lubricant
WHEEL BEARING GREASE (Part No. HD99855-89)
R - Replace or change.
T - Tighten to proper torque.
X - Perform.
SERVICE OPERATIONS
AND SPECIAL TOOLS
P
r
e
r
i
d
e
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
2
3
2
5
7
0
2
5
7
0
2
5
7
0
5
5
0
5
0
5
0
5
0
5
0
5
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi
1
1
2
2
2
3
3
4
4
4
4
8
2
6
0
4
8
2
6
0
4
8
8
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
km km km km km km km km km km km km km
Front fork oil (page 1-26)
R
R
R
FRONT WHEEL SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41395)
& S1 ADAPTER (B-41686)
A
n
n
u
a
l
SERVICE DATA
Fluid type
WP FORK OIL, 5 weight
Fluid level
4.33 in. (110 mm) from top with fork fully compressed
PRO-LEVEL OIL GAUGE (Part No. B-59000A)
Spark plugs (page 1-27)
I
R
I
R
I
R
Spark plug type
No. 6R12
Spark plug gap
0.038-0.045 in. (0.96-1.14 mm)
Lubricant
LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT
Torque
11-18 ft-lbs (15-24 Nm)
I
Air cleaner filter (page 1-28)
Throttle control grip sleeve, cables and speedometer cable (Section 2)
I
Front brake hand lever, throttle control cables, clutch control cable and
hand lever (Section 2)
L
R
R
R
R
R
R
Check more often in dusty conditions.
L
L
L
L
L
L
Check for damage and freeplay.
L
L
L
L
L
L
Check for damage and freeplay.
Operation of throttle and enrichener controls (page 1-29)
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
Controls must be smooth and not binding.
DO NOT lubricate the enrichener cable.
Engine idle speed (page 1-30)
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
Fast idle-all models
2000 RPM
CARBURETOR IDLE ADJUSTMENT TOOL
(Part No. HD-33413)
Regular idle-49 state models
950-1050 RPM
TIP (Snap-on Part No. TMP23A)
Regular idle-California models
1150-1250 RPM
Ignition timing (page 1-30)
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
Ignition timing set at regular engine idle speed (listed above).
TIMING MARK VIEW PLUG (Part No. HD-96295-65D)
INDUCTIVE TIMING LIGHT (Part No. HD-33813)
Vacuum-operated electric switch (V.O.E.S.) (page 1-32)
1-11
Table Code:
A - Adjust.
I - Inspect, and if necessary, correct, adjust, clean or replace.
L - Lubricate with specified lubricant.
R - Replace or change.
T - Tighten to proper torque.
X - Perform.
1-12
SERVICE OPERATIONS
AND SPECIAL TOOLS
P
r
e
r
i
d
e
Fuel supply valve, hoses and fittings for leaks (Section 4)
1
1
1
1
2
2
2
2
3
2
5
7
0
2
5
7
0
2
5
7
0
5
5
0
5
0
5
0
5
0
5
0
5
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi mi
1
1
2
2
2
3
3
4
4
4
4
8
2
6
0
4
8
2
6
0
4
8
8
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
km km km km km km km km km km km km km
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
Swingarm pivot bolt (Section 2)
I
I
I
I
I
I
Swingarm bearings (Section 2)
I
IL
I
IL
I
IL
I
Side stand (Section 2)
Engine mounts (Section 3)
I
I
I
X
X
All fasteners except engine head bolts
I
I
L
I
Operation of all electrical equipment and switches (Section 7)
Road test
I
I
I
I
I
X
X
T
I
I
L
I
I
I
X
X
T
I
I
L
I
I
I
X
X
T
I
I
X
X
I
I
L
I
I
T
Table Code:
A - Adjust.
I - Inspect, and if necessary, correct, adjust, clean or replace.
L - Lubricate with specified lubricant.
I
L
I
X
X
T
I
Lubricant
LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT
Lubricant
WHEEL BEARING GREASE (Part No. HD99855-89)
Check for leaks and loose connections.
L
I
I
SERVICE DATA
I
Fuel tank filter screen (Section 4)
Oil and brake lines (Section 2 and 3)
A
n
n
u
a
l
I
I
I
X
X
T
T
R - Replace or change.
T - Tighten to proper torque.
X - Perform.
1
BATTERY
GENERAL
●
●
1WARNING
Batteries contain sulfuric acid which can cause severe
burns. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing.
Batteries produce explosive hydrogen gas at all
times, especially when being charged. Keep cigarettes, open flame and sparks away from the battery
at all times. Ventilate area when charging battery.
Always protect hands and protect eyes with shield or
goggles when working near a battery or acid. KEEP
BATTERIES AND ACID OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN!
The battery is below the seat in the center of the vehicle. The
battery can be removed from the left side of the motorcycle
without removing the tail section or fuel tank.
1DANGER - EXPLOSIVE GASES
Cigarettes, flames or sparks could cause battery to
explode resulting in personal injury. Always shield
eyes and face from battery. Do not charge without
proper instruction and training. Securely connect
cables to the proper terminals.
POISON - CAUSES SEVERE BURNS
Contains sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes,
and clothing. In event of accident, flush with water and
call a physician immediately.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
Figure 1-5. Battery Warnings
b0188xox
12.9
Check the battery:
12.6
●
At every scheduled service interval.
●
When storing or removing the motorcycle for the season.
CHARGING
The sealed, low maintenance battery has a very slow discharge rate. See Figure 1-6. If you suspect a battery problem,
test as described below.
1.
Remove battery from motorcycle. See BATTERY,
REMOVAL on page 1-14.
2.
Test battery voltage using a multimeter.
3.
If battery voltage is below 12.66 Volts, use a 1-100 Amp,
12 Volt charger on battery. See Table 1-3.
Open Circuit Volts
The battery requires no additional fluid at any time.
12.3
12.0
11.7
11.4
0
20
40
60
80
100
State of Charge, %
Figure 1-6. Open Circuit Voltage vs. State of Charge
(No Charge Last 24 Hours)
Table 1-3. Charging Rates
CHARGER
OUTPUT
CURRENT
RATE
OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE
12.00 to
12.66 Volts
11.40 to
11.99 Volts
Less than
11.40 Volts
1 Amp
32 hours
48 hours
96 hours
2-5 Amps
16 hours
24 hours
48 hours
6-10 Amps
8 hours
12 hours
24 hours
1-13
REMOVAL
5548
1WARNING
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding. Always disconnect the negative cable first. If
the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
Locknut
Battery positive
terminal (metric)
1CAUTION
Battery negative
terminal (metric)
See Figure 1-8. Hold battery cable when loosening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable will cause
battery damage.
1.
Disconnect battery cables, negative cable first.
2.
Remove battery strap locknut using 7/16 in. flex socket
(SNAP-ON Part No. TMU141) and handle (SNAP-ON
Part No. TM62B).
Battery strap
Figure 1-7. Battery
b0189x7x
NOTE
On California models, detach carbon canister from bracket
before removing battery.
3.
Remove battery from left side.
Hold cable during
removal/installation
Tighten to 30-40 in-lbs
(3.4-4.5 Nm)
INSTALLATION
1.
Clean cable connectors and battery terminals using a
wire brush or sandpaper to remove any oxidation.
1WARNING
Always connect positive battery cable first. If the positive
cable should contact ground with the negative cable
installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion resulting in personal injury.
1CAUTION
Connect cables to correct terminals of battery or serious
damage to motorcycle electrical system will occur.
2.
Connect positive cable to positive (+) battery terminal.
Then, after positive cable has been connected to positive
terminal, connect negative cable to negative (-) battery
terminal.
1CAUTION
See Figure 1-8. Hold battery cable when tightening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable will cause
battery damage.
3.
Tighten battery hardware to 30-40 in-lbs (3.4-4.5 Nm).
4.
Apply light coat of petroleum jelly or corrosion-retardant
material to both terminals.
NOTE
On California models, attach carbon canister to bracket after
installing battery.
1-14
Figure 1-8. Checking Battery Terminals
ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM
CHECKING ENGINE OIL LEVEL
5582
Check engine oil level:
●
At least once every 500 miles (800 km).
●
At every service interval.
NOTE
If engine uses more oil than normal or if vehicle is operated
under harsh conditions, check oil more frequently.
Oil pressure
switch
When checking or changing engine oil:
●
Warm vehicle to normal operating temperature.
●
Turn engine off.
●
Hold motorcycle upright (not leaning on side stand) on a
level surface.
1.
Remove seat.
2.
See Figure 1-10. Remove filler cap/dipstick from oil tank.
Wipe dipstick clean.
3.
Install filler cap onto oil tank. Make sure cap is fully
seated on tank.
Oil filter
Figure 1-9. Oil Filter and Mount
5545
Lower mark
1CAUTION
Do not switch oil brands indiscriminately because some
oils interact chemically when mixed. Use of inferior oils
or non-detergent oils can damage the engine.
4.
Remove filler cap again and check oil level on dipstick.
Oil level should be between lower and upper dipstick
level marks. If oil level in tank is below lower mark of dipstick, add oil to tank. Install filler cap/dipstick.
Recommended viscosity depends upon ambient temperature. See Table 1-4.
NOTE
Difference between upper and lower dipstick marks is
0.5 quart (0.47 liter).
1WARNING
After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be
sure it is locked in position. If seat is loose, it could shift
during vehicle operation and startle the rider, causing
loss of control and personal injury.
5.
Upper mark
Oil tank
Install seat.
Figure 1-10. Checking Oil Tank Level
Table 1-4. Recommended Oil Grades
HARLEYDAVIDSON TYPE
H.D. Multi-Grade
H.D. Multi-Grade
H.D. Regular Heavy
H.D. Extra Heavy
HARLEYVISCOSITY DAVIDSON
RATING
SAE
10W40
HD 240
LOWEST
AMBIENT
TEMP.
COLD
WEATHER
STARTS
BELOW
50° F
Below 40°F
(4°C)
Excellent
40°
SAE
20W50
HD 240
Above
(4°C)
Good
SAE
50
HD 240
Above 60°
(16°C)
Poor
SAE
60
HD 240
80°
Above
(27°C)
Poor
1-15
CHANGING ENGINE OIL AND FILTER
5547
Change engine oil:
Drain hose
●
At the 500 mile (800 km) service interval.
●
At every 5000 mile (8000 km) service interval thereafter.
●
When storing or removing the motorcycle for the season.
Clamp
Drain plug
NOTE
The colder the weather, the shorter the recommended oil
change interval. A vehicle used only for short runs in cold
weather must have the engine oil drained more frequently.
1.
Place a suitable container under the motorcycle.
2.
See Figure 1-11. Compress clamp. Remove hose from
drain plug by pulling hose forward. Direct hose to container and completely drain oil tank.
3.
Install drain hose on drain plug. Tighten clamp.
4.
Remove oil filter using OIL FILTER WRENCH (Part No.
HD-41215).
5.
Clean filter gasket contact surface on crankcase. Surface
should be smooth and free of any debris or old gasket
material.
6.
See Figure 1-12. Apply a thin film of oil to gasket contact
surface on crankcase mounting plate and to new oil filter.
7.
Pour 4.0 ounces (0.12 liter) of clean oil into new filter
when changing oil.
8.
Screw filter onto adapter until gasket contacts mounting
plate surface. Apply another 1/2-3/4 turn by hand.
1WARNING
Be sure no oil gets on tires when changing oil and filter.
Traction will be adversely affected which may lead to a
loss of control and personal injury.
9.
Fill oil tank with an oil from Table 1-4. Oil tank capacity is
2.0 quarts (1.90 liters) plus the 4.0 ounces (0.12 liter)
added in Step 7.
10. Install filler cap onto oil tank. Make sure filler cap is fully
seated.
1WARNING
After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be
sure it is locked in position. If seat is loose, it could shift
during vehicle operation and startle the rider, causing
loss of control and personal injury.
11. Install seat.
12. Start engine. Verify that oil pressure signal light on dash
panel turns off when engine speed is 1000 RPM or
above.
13. Check for oil leaks at oil filter and drain hose.
14. Check oil level as described on page 1-15.
1-16
Figure 1-11. Oil Tank Drain Line
b0138aox
Apply a thin film of oil to new filter gasket
and crankcase mounting plate.
Figure 1-12. Oil Filter
BRAKES
GENERAL
5565
1WARNING
Bleeder valve
Brake fluid can cause irritation of eyes and skin, and may
be harmful if swallowed. If fluid is swallowed, induce
vomiting by administering two tablespoons of salt in a
glass of warm water. Call a doctor. In case of contact with
skin or eyes, flush with plenty of water. Get medical
attention for eyes. KEEP BRAKE FLUID OUT OF THE
REACH OF CHILDREN.
Check brake fluid level and condition:
●
At the 500 mile (800 km) service interval.
●
At every 5000 mile (8000 km) service interval thereafter.
●
When storing or removing the motorcycle for the season.
Figure 1-13. Front Brake Caliper Bleeder Valve
Front brake hand lever and rear brake foot pedal must have a
firm feel when brakes are applied. If not, bleed system as
described.
5566
Bleeder valve
(metric)
BLEEDING BRAKES
Protective
cap removed
NOTE
Hydraulic brake fluid bladder-type pressure equipment can be
used to fill brake master cylinder through the bleeder valve.
Remove master cylinder reservoir cover so that system cannot pressurize. Do not use pressure bleeding equipment
when the hydraulic system is sealed with master cylinder reservoir cover and gasket in place.
1.
2.
Install end of a length of plastic tubing over caliper
bleeder valve; place other end in a clean container.
Stand motorcycle upright.
a.
Front brake caliper-Figure 1-13.
b.
Rear brake caliper-Figure 1-14.
Add D.O.T. 5 SILICONE HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID to
master cylinder reservoir. Do not reuse brake fluid.
a.
Bring fluid level to within 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) of molded
boss for front master cylinder reservoir.
b.
Bring fluid level between upper and lower marks for
rear master cylinder reservoir.
3.
Depress and hold brake lever/pedal to build up hydraulic
pressure.
4.
Open bleeder valve about 1/2-turn counterclockwise;
brake fluid will flow from bleeder valve and through tubing. When brake lever/pedal has moved 1/2-3/4 of its full
range of travel, close bleeder valve (clockwise). Allow
brake lever/pedal to return slowly to its released position.
5.
Repeat Steps 2-4 until all air bubbles are purged.
6.
Tighten bleeder valves.
Figure 1-14. Rear Brake Caliper Bleeder Valve
PADS, ROTORS AND LINKAGE
Check brake pads and rotors for minimum thickness. See
Table 1-5. See Section 2 for replacement procedures.
●
At the 500 mile (800 km) service interval.
●
At every service interval thereafter.
Check rear brake pedal height and freeplay. See Table 1-5.
See Section 2 for adjustment procedures.
●
Before every ride.
●
At the 500 mile (800 km) service interval.
●
At every 5000 mile (8000 km) service interval thereafter.
Table 1-5. Brake System Components
a.
Front bleeder valve to 4-6 ft-lbs (5.4-8.1 Nm).
SPECIFICATION
FRONT
REAR
b.
Rear bleeder valve to 6-9 ft-lbs (8.1-12.2 Nm).
Minimum rotor thickness
0.17 in.
(4.4 mm)
0.19 in.
(4.8 mm)
7.
Verify master cylinder fluid level as described in Step 2.
8.
Tighten master cylinder reservoir cover screws to 9-13
in-lbs (1.0-1.5 Nm). Install cover on rear reservoir.
Minimum pad thickness
Hand lever/pedal freeplay
1/16 in. (1.6 mm)
1/8 in. (3.2 mm) maximum
1-17
TIRES AND WHEELS
TIRE INFLATION
1WARNING
WHEEL BEARINGS
Check wheel bearings:
Do not inflate any tire beyond its maximum inflation pressure as specified on tire sidewall. Overinflation may
cause tire to suddenly deflate leading to personal injury.
●
Every time the wheel is removed.
●
At every 10,000 mile (16,000 km) service interval.
●
When storing or removing the motorcycle for the season.
Check tire pressure and tread:
●
Before every ride.
●
At the 500 (800 km) mile service interval.
●
At every scheduled service interval.
Check wheel bearings and axle spacers for wear and corrosion. Excessive play or roughness indicates worn bearings.
Replace bearings in sets only.
Check for proper front and rear tire pressures when tires are
cold. Compare pressure against Table 1-6.
SPEEDOMETER CABLE
Check speedometer cable:
Table 1-6. Tire Pressures
●
Inspect before every ride.
●
Lubricate at every 5000 mile (8000 km) service interval.
TIRE AND POSITION
PRESSURE
FOR SOLO
RIDING
PRESSURE
AT GVWR
Front-Dunlop Sportmax
Radial II 120/70 ZR 17
32 PSI
(2.2 bar)
36 PSI
(2.5 bar)
Examine speedometer cable housing (outer sheath) for kinks
or other damage. Replace entire cable assembly if any damage is noted.
Rear-Dunlop Sportmax
Radial II 170/60 ZR 17
36 PSI
(2.5 bar)
38 PSI
(2.8 bar)
Lubricate inner cable with a good quality graphite grease.
Wipe off excess grease.
1-18
CLUTCH
TRANSMISSION FLUID
5592
Check transmission fluid:
●
Replace at the 500 mile (800 km) service interval.
●
Inspect level at every 2500 mile (4000 km) service interval.
●
Replace at every 5000 mile (8000 km) service interval.
Torx screw with
washer (4)
Primary chaincase lubricant capacity is approximately 1.0
quart (0.95 liter). For best results, drain lubricant while hot.
1.
Raise rear of vehicle off the floor using REAR WHEEL
SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41174) to prevent chaincase lubricant from draining out of clutch cover opening
when refilled.
2.
Remove muffler. See EXHAUST SYSTEM in Section 2.
3.
See Figure 1-15. Position a suitable container under
transmission lubricant drain plug. Remove drain plug and
drain lubricant.
Clutch inspection
cover
Drain plug
4.
5.
Remove foreign material from magnetic drain plug.
Reinstall plug and tighten to 14-21 ft-lbs (19-28 Nm).
Figure 1-15. Primary Cover
b0190x6x
Clutch adjusting screw
Remove four TORX screws with washers from clutch
inspection cover. Remove clutch inspection cover from
primary cover. Do not damage or dislodge Quad ring
from primary cover.
Quad ring
Diaphragm spring
1CAUTION
Do not overfill the primary chaincase with lubricant.
Overfilling may cause rough clutch engagement and
incomplete disengagement (or clutch drag).
6.
Add SPORT-TRANS FLUID (Part No. 98854-96 quart
size; Part No. 98855-96 gallon size) as required until
lubricant is even with bottom of clutch diaphragm spring.
See Figure 1-16.
Lubricant level
Figure 1-16. Lubricant Level
5671
New style
7.
Install clutch inspection cover using four TORX screws
with washers. Tighten screws in a crosswise pattern to 79 ft-lbs (9-12 Nm).
8.
Install muffler. See EXHAUST SYSTEM in Section 2.
Old style
PRODUCTION CHANGE
See Figure 1-17. Beginning with motorcycles built in early
January 1996, the outer clutch release ramp has been
changed. The clutch adjustment and lever freeplay procedures remain the same. The change was made to prevent any
possible contact between the coupler and the primary cover.
Figure 1-17. Ramp Change
1-19
ADJUSTMENT
5594
1
Check clutch adjustment:
●
At the 500 mile (800 km) service interval.
●
At every 5000 mile (8000 km) service interval thereafter.
2
3
If clutch slips under load or drags when released, first check
control cable adjustment. If cable adjustment is within specifications, adjust clutch mechanism as described below.
4
When necessary, lubricate cable with LUBIT-8 TUFOIL®
CHAIN AND CABLE LUBE (Part No. HD-94968-85TV).
1.
Raise rear of vehicle off the floor using REAR WHEEL
SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41174).
2.
See Figure 1-18. Slide rubber boot (1) upward to expose
adjuster mechanism. Loosen jam nut (3) from adjuster
(4). Turn adjuster to shorten cable housing until there is a
large amount of freeplay at clutch hand lever.
3.
See Figure 1-19. Remove TORX screws with washers (1)
from clutch inspection cover (2). Remove clutch inspection cover from primary cover, but leave Quad ring (3) in
place.
1.
2.
Rubber boot
Cable end
3.
4.
Jam nut
Adjuster
Figure 1-18. Clutch Cable Adjuster Mechanism
b0152x6x
NOTE
6
Quad ring removed from primary cover for illustrative purposes only in Figure 1-19.
4.
Remove spring (4) and adjusting screw lockplate (5).
Turn adjusting screw counterclockwise until it lightly bottoms.
5.
Turn clutch adjusting screw (6) clockwise 1/4 turn. Install
lockplate (5) and spring (4) on adjusting screw flats. If
hex on lockplate does not align with recess in outer ramp,
rotate adjusting screw clockwise until it aligns.
6.
Squeeze clutch lever to maximum limit three times to set
ball and ramp mechanism. Pull outer cable conduit and at
the same time adjust cable adjuster to provide 1/16-1/8 in.
(1.6-3.2 mm) freeplay at hand lever. Adjust as follows.
a.
See Figure 1-20. Pull clutch cable ferrule (end of
cable housing) away from clutch hand lever bracket.
Gap between ferrule and bracket should be 1/16-1/8
in. (1.6-3.2 mm).
b.
See Figure 1-18. Adjust freeplay by turning cable
adjuster (4).
c.
Tighten jam nut (3) against adjuster (4).
d.
Slide boot (1) over cable adjuster mechanism.
7.
Change or add transmission fluid if necessary.
8.
Install clutch inspection cover (2). Tighten TORX screws
with washers (1) in a crosswise pattern to 7-9 ft-lbs (912 Nm).
9.
Check clutch cable freeplay. See Step 6 above.
1-20
2
1
4
5
3
1.
2.
3.
Torx screw with washer
Clutch inspection cover
Quad ring
4.
5.
6.
Spring
Lockplate
Adjusting screw
Figure 1-19. Clutch Release Mechanism
5595
Adjust for 1/16-1/8 in. (1.6-3.2 mm)
gap between ferrule and bracket
Figure 1-20. Adjusting Clutch Freeplay
REAR BELT DEFLECTION
INSPECTION
b0086x6x
Check rear belt deflection:
●
Inspect before every ride.
●
Adjust at the 500 mile (800 km) service interval.
●
Adjust at every 5000 mile (8000 km) service interval
thereafter.
The secondary drive belt should be checked for unusual
wear, cracking or loss of teeth. Check the belt sprocket for
unusual wear, broken teeth or damaged flange. When checking deflection, have:
●
No rider or cargo weight on motorcycle.
●
Transmission in neutral.
●
Belt and sprockets at room temperature.
●
Motorcycle upright (not on side stand).
1.
See Figure 1-21. At the lower strand, position “A”, midway between transmission sprocket and rear wheel
sprocket, apply 10 Ibs (4.5 kg) of upward force on lower
span of rear belt using BELT TENSION GAUGE (Part No.
HD-35381).
2.
Measure belt deflection “B” several times, each time with
belt moved (by rotating rear wheel) to a different position
on sprockets. With sprockets rotated to tightest belt position, belt deflection “B” (measured at position “A”) should
be 7/8-1 in. (22.2-25.4 mm).
A
B
Apply 10 lbs (4.5 kg)
of upward force
Belt deflection should be
7/8-1 in. (22.2-25.4 mm)
Figure 1-21. Checking Belt Deflection
5574
Axle adjuster nut
ADJUSTMENT
1.
Adjust shock absorber spring preload. See REAR PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT on page 1-23.
2.
See Figure 1-22. Loosen rear axle nut (metric), if not
already performed.
NOTE
After you loosen the axle nut, turn the axle and nut so the rearmost flat on each side is parallel with the ends of the swingarm.
Rear axle nut
Figure 1-22. Rear Axle
5585
Check to be sure rear wheel axle is parallel with swingarm
pivot shaft.
3.
See Figure 1-23. Measure each side from the flat to the
end of the swingarm, to be sure rear axle is correctly
located.
4.
Turn axle adjuster nuts (metric) on each side of swingarm to adjust belt deflection.
a.
Turn clockwise to decrease deflection (increase tension).
b.
Turn counterclockwise to increase belt deflection
(decrease tension).
Turn each adjuster nut exactly the same number of turns
to maintain rear wheel alignment
5.
Tighten axle nut (metric) to 66-73 ft-lbs (89.5-98.9 Nm).
Measure each side to
check wheel alignment
Figure 1-23. Checking Rear Wheel Alignment,
Right Side Shown
CLEANING
Keep dirt, grease, oil, and debris off the belt and sprockets.
Clean the belt with a rag which is slightly damp with light
cleaning agent.
1-21
PRIMARY CHAIN
INSPECTION
5583
Primary chain
inspection cover
Check primary chain:
●
At the 500 mile (800 km) service interval.
●
At every 5000 mile (8000 km) service interval thereafter.
Check primary chain for correct tension by measuring its vertical freeplay through the primary chain inspection cover
opening located near the top of the primary cover.
1.
See Figure 1-24. Remove two screws from primary chain
inspection cover.
2.
Remove primary chain inspection cover.
3.
See Figure 1-25. Check primary chain tension by measuring vertical freeplay (measuring midway between
sprockets) several times, each time with primary chain
moved (by rotating engine) to a different position on
sprockets.
4.
Check primary chain tension against Table 1-7. If necessary, adjust as described below.
Screws
NOTE
Measurements are taken with sprockets rotated to tightest chain position.
●
Figure 1-24. Primary Chain Inspection Cover
b0085x6x
The initial primary chain vertical freeplay specification
used at the assembly plant is 1/4-1/2 in. (6.3-12.7 mm)
with a cold engine. The 1/4 in. (6.3 mm) minimum is only
allowed at the absolute tightest point in the drive, as
measured with specialized factory equipment. If a chain
has less than 1/4 in. vertical freeplay (with a cold
engine), adjust freeplay to the “field” specification of 3/81/2 in. (9.5-12.7 mm).The looser specification will avoid
overtightening, which might otherwise occur during
adjustment using “non-factory” equipment and methods.
●
Front sprocket
Rear sprocket
Figure 1-25. Measuring Primary Chain Tension
Table 1-7. Primary Chain Tension
ENGINE TEMPERATURE
FREEPLAY
5592
Cold
3/8-1/2 in.
(9.5-12.7 mm)
Hot (normal running temperature)
1/4-3/8 in.
(6.4-9.5 mm)
5.
Locknut
Adjusting screw
Install primary chain inspection cover. Tighten screws to
40-60 in-lbs (4.5-6.8 Nm).
ADJUSTMENT
NOTE
If vertical freeplay cannot be set within the limits specified,
then primary chain and/or chain adjuster are worn beyond
adjustment limits. Replace parts as necessary. See Section 6.
1.
See Figure 1-26. Loosen locknut and turn adjusting
screw:
a.
Turn clockwise (inward) to reduce freeplay.
b.
Turn counterclockwise (outward) to increase freeplay.
2.
1-22
Tighten locknut to 20-25 ft-lbs (27.1-33.9 Nm).
Figure 1-26. Primary Chain Adjustment
REAR PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
GENERAL
5540
Adjust rear preload:
●
When a new rider buys the motorcycle.
●
When there is a change in load (luggage, etc.)
●
Before changing front fork or rear shock suspension
settings.
Rear turn signal
mounting bolt
Rear suspension spring preload assures that the rear suspension has the proper amount of travel.
Spring preload is the most important suspension adjustment
on the S1 Lightning. Improper preload will adversely affect
both the handling and motorcycle ride. Correct preload setting will result in motorcycle handling that suits the rider’s size
and weight.
ADJUSTMENT
Rear axle nut
Figure 1-27. Checking Rear Preload
You will need three people to carry out this adjustment.
1.
Verify correct front and rear tire pressure. See TIRES
AND WHEELS on page 1-18.
2.
Remove all accessories from motorcycle including tank
bag and/or saddlebags.
3.
Take the motorcycle off the side stand and bounce the
rear up and down a few times to be sure the suspension
is free and not binding.
4.
See Figure 1-27. Measure the distance from the center
of the rear axle nut to the rear turn signal mounting bolt
without rider/passenger/cargo/accessories on the motorcycle.
5.
Install items removed in Step 2. Load all cargo.
6.
Bounce a few times on the seat to be sure the suspension is free and not binding.
7.
With the help of an assistant, take the same measurement with the vehicle fully loaded (rider/passenger/luggage/cargo). The assistant should help balance the
motorcycle so the rider can keep both feet on the footrests.
8.
Subtract the second measurement from the first. The difference, which is the squat, should be 0.25-0.75 in. (6.419.1 mm). If it is not, you will have to adjust the spring
preload.
●
Preload adjusting
nuts (metric)
Figure 1-28. Adjusting Rear Preload
1CAUTION
Be sure to apply the same number of turns to each
mechanical preload adjusting nut to ensure that the
end plates do not become misaligned. Misaligned
end plates will cause the shock absorber spring to
bind against the adjustment rods.
●
Be sure the plates are parallel within 1/64 in. (0.4 mm).
Misaligned end plates will cause the shock absorber
spring to bind against the adjustment rods.
9.
See Figure 1-28. Change the spring preload by adjusting
the mechanical preload adjusting nuts (metric) on the
rods that connect the end plates.
a.
Increase the preload by tightening the nuts.
b.
Decrease the preload by loosening the nuts.
1-23
SUSPENSION
ADJUSTMENT
5542
Adjust front forks by first turning the slotted dial clockwise with
a screwdriver until it stops. Then turn the dial counterclockwise the recommended 12 or 20 positions. A higher number
of clicks increases damping.
NOTE
Rear spring preload must be set before adjusting any other
suspension settings. See REAR PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
on page 1-23.
Front fork rebound
damping adjuster
Table 1-8. Suspension Settings
RANGE IN
CLICKS
FACTORY
SETTING
SEE
FIGURE
Front fork
compression
28
20
1-29
Front fork
rebound
28
12
1-29
Rear shock
rebound
7
3
1-30
Rear shock
compression
11
5
1-31
ADJUSTMENT
Front fork compression
damping adjuster
Figure 1-29. Front Fork Adjustments
5572
Rear shock rebound
damping adjuster
Figure 1-30. Rear Shock Rebound Adjuster
REAR SHOCK
5571
Check rear shock:
●
At the 500 mile (800 km) service interval.
●
At every 5000 mile (8000 km) service interval thereafter.
Rear shock compression
damping adjuster
Inspect the rear shock absorber for loose mounting hardware,
leaks or rod-to-spring contact. Tighten the front and rear
mounts 40-45 ft-lbs (54.2-61.0 Nm).
Figure 1-31. Rear Shock Compression Adjuster
1-24
FRONT FORK
STEERING HEAD BEARINGS
5591
Check steering head bearings:
●
At the 500 mile (800 km) service interval.
●
At every 5000 mile (8000 km) service interval thereafter.
●
Lubricate every 10,000 mile (16,000 km) service interval.
1.
See Figure 1-32. Lift motorcycle using FRONT WHEEL
SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41395) and S1 LIFT
ADAPTER (Part No. B-41686) so front wheel is off the
ground.
2.
Turn front wheel to full right lock.
3.
Hook a spring scale into the axle hole and pull front
wheel to center position.
3.5-5.5 lbs
(1.6-2.5 kg)
It should take 3.5-5.5 lbs (1.6-2.5 kg) to pull front wheel
to center.
NOTE
Figure 1-32. Checking Steering Head Bearings
b0031a2x
Check that clutch and throttle cables do not bind when measuring bearing resistance.
1
2
Lubrication
At 10,000 miles (16,000 km) and every 10,000 miles
(16,000 km) thereafter, grease the steering head bearings
with WHEEL BEARING GREASE (Part No. 99855-89).
3
4
See FORK STEM AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY in Section 2
for lubrication procedure.
5
ADJUSTMENT
1.
Raise front wheel off floor using FRONT WHEEL SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41395) and S1 LIFT
ADAPTER (Part No. B-41686).
2.
Turn front wheel to full right lock.
3.
See Figure 1-32. Hook spring scale into front axle hole.
Pull front wheel to center position. It should take 3.5-5.5
lbs (1.6-2.5 kg) to pull front wheel to center.
4.
Loosen pinch screws (7) on upper and lower triple
clamps.
5.
See Figure 1-33. Tighten or loosen fork stem bolt (1) to
set proper tension.
6.
Recheck tension using spring scale. See Step 3.
7.
Tighten triple clamp pinch screws (7) to 18-20 ft-lbs (24.427.1 Nm).
5
4
3
9
8
6
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Fork stem bolt
Upper triple clamp
Dust shield (2)
Roller bearing (2)
Bearing cup (2)
7
6.
7.
8.
9.
Lower triple clamp
Screw (5)
Steering head lock
Steering lock key
Figure 1-33. Steering Head Assembly
1-25
FORK OIL CHANGE
5750
Replace fork oil:
Outer tube
●
At every 10,000 mile (16,000 km) service interval.
●
If fork should be submerged in water.
1.
Remove and disassemble front forks. See FRONT FORK
in Section 2.
9 in. (229 mm)
maximum
NOTE
If fork oil is emulsified, aerated or light brown in color, then it
has been contaminated by water. If this happens, replace the
fork oil seals.
2.
Drain forks of oil.
3.
With fork in fully compressed stage, add WP FORK OIL,
5 WEIGHT to above red retaining cap.
1CAUTION
Figure 1-34. Maximum Outer Tube Lift
5758
Damper
assembly
See Figure 1-34. Raise outer tube no higher than 9 in.
(229 mm) or fluid loss will occur.
4.
See Figure 1-35. Grasp damper assembly by the
adjuster. Pull damper assembly through several full
strokes to bleed air from the fork.
5.
With front fork fully compressed, clamp vertically in
FRONT FORK HOLDING TOOL (Part No. B-41177).
6.
Measure distance from fork oil surface to top of tube
using PRO-LEVEL OIL GAUGE (Part No. B-59000A).
Add or drain fork oil as needed until distance from top of
fork tube to oil surface measures 4.33 in. (110 mm). See
Figure 1-36.
7.
Assemble front fork and install. See FRONT FORK in
Section 2.
Figure 1-35. Bleeding Fork
b0038bx2x
1
2
Correct fork oil level is
4.33 in. (110 mm) below
top of fork tube
Use only
WP FORK OIL, 5 WEIGHT
3
4
1.
2.
Outer tube
Adjuster
3.
4.
Damper assembly
Fork oil level
Figure 1-36. Correct Fork Oil Level
1-26
SPARK PLUGS
INSPECTION
4636
Check spark plugs:
●
Inspect at every 5000 mile (8000 km) service interval.
●
Replace every 10,000 mile (16,000 km) service interval.
1.
Disconnect cables from both spark plugs.
2.
Remove spark plugs.
3.
See Figure 1-37. Compare your observations of the plug
deposits with the descriptions provided below.
a.
A wet, black and shiny deposit on plug base, electrodes and ceramic insulator tip indicates an oil
fouled plug. The condition may be caused by one or
more of the following: worn pistons, worn piston
rings, worn valves, worn valve guides, worn valve
seals, a weak battery or a faulty ignition system.
b.
A dry, fluffy or sooty black deposit indicates a carburetor air-fuel mixture that is too rich, engine idling for
excessive periods of time and/or enrichener usage
for excessive periods of time.
c.
A light brown, glassy deposit indicates an overheated plug. This condition may be accompanied by
cracks in the insulator or by erosion of the electrodes and is caused by an air-fuel mixture that is
too lean, a hot-running engine, valves not seating or
improper ignition timing. The glassy deposit on the
spark plug is a conductor when hot and may cause
high-speed misfiring. A plug with eroded electrodes,
heavy deposits or a cracked insulator must be
replaced.
d.
4.
A plug with a white, yellow, tan or rusty brown powdery deposit indicates balanced combustion. Clean
off spark plug deposits at regular intervals.
If the plugs require cleaning between tune-ups, proceed
as follows:
a.
b.
Degrease firing end of spark plug using ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER. Dry plug with compressed air.
Figure 1-37. Typical Spark Plug Deposits
5581
Tighten to 11-18
ft-lbs (15-24 Nm)
Figure 1-38. Spark Plugs
Use a thin file to flatten spark plug electrodes. A
spark plug with sharp edges on its electrodes
requires 25%-40% less firing voltage than one with
rounded edges.
5.
If the plugs cannot be cleaned, replace with No. 6R12
spark plugs.
6.
Check electrode gap with a wire-type feeler gauge. Gap
should be 0.038-0.045 in. (0.96-1.14 mm).
7.
See Figure 1-38. Apply LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE to plugs.
Install and tighten spark plugs to 11-18 ft-lbs (15-24 Nm).
8.
Connect spark plug cables. Verify that cables are
securely connected to coil and spark plugs.
1-27
AIR CLEANER FILTER
REMOVAL
5705
1
Check air cleaner filter:
●
Inspect at the 500 mile (800 km) service interval.
●
Replace at every 5000 mile (8000 km) service interval
thereafter.
NOTE
Service air cleaner more often if the motorcycle is run in a
dusty environment.
1CAUTION
Do not run engine without filter element in place. Debris
could be drawn into the engine causing damage.
1.
See Figure 1-39. Remove screw and nylon washer on
top of air cleaner cover.
2.
Remove screw, nylon washer and locknut at rear of air
cleaner cover. Remove cover.
3.
See Figure 1-40. Remove filter box from snorkel tube.
4.
Remove filter from filter box.
2
1.
2.
Screw and nylon washer
Screw, nylon washer and locknut
Figure 1-39. Air Cleaner Cover
5749
2
INSTALLATION
1.
3
Replace filter element if damaged or if filter media cannot
be adequately cleaned.
1
1WARNING
●
Low pressure air can blow debris in your face and
eyes. Not wearing eye protection or a face shield
when using pressurized air may result in personal
injury.
●
Do not use gasoline or solvents to clean the filter element. Volatile/flammable cleaning agents may cause
an intake system fire which may result in personal
injury.
2.
Wash element in luke warm water with a mild detergent.
Dry the filter element using low-pressure (32 psi/221 kPa
maximum) compressed air. Rotate element while moving
air nozzle up and down the element interior. Do not rap
the element on a hard surface.
Hold filter element up to strong light source. The element
can be considered sufficiently clean if light is uniformly
visible through the element.
3.
Thoroughly clean backplate, filter box and inside of
cover.
4.
See Figure 1-40. Place filter in filter box. Attach filter box
to snorkel tube.
5.
See Figure 1-39. Place cover over backplate assembly.
Install top screw and nylon washer.
6.
Install screw, nylon washer and locknut on rear mount.
Tighten to 6-8 ft-lbs (8.1-10.8 Nm).
1-28
1.
2.
3.
Filter element
Filter box
Snorkel tube
Figure 1-40. Snorkel Tube
CARBURETOR
CABLE ADJUSTMENT
1WARNING
5587
Throttle cables must not pull tight when handlebars are
turned fully to left or right fork stops. Be sure wires and
throttle cables are clear of fork stops at steering head so
they will not be pinched when fork is turned against stops.
Steering must be smooth and free with no binding or interference. Anything interfering with carburetor operation
may cause loss of vehicle control and personal injury.
4
Check throttle cable adjustment:
●
Before every ride.
●
At every scheduled service interval.
Check throttle cable adjustment with engine running. Turn
handlebars through full range of travel. If engine speed
changes during this maneuver, adjust throttle cables as follows:
1.
Remove air cleaner. See AIR CLEANER, REMOVAL in
Section 4.
2.
See Figure 1-41. Slide rubber boot (4) off cable
adjusters (3).
3.
Loosen jam nut on each adjuster.
3
5609
1
6
NOTE
Cable adjusters (3) and jam nuts are metric.
4.
Turn adjusters in direction which will shorten cable housings to minimum length.
5.
Point front wheel straight ahead. Twist throttle control grip
to fully open position; hold in position.
6.
Turn adjuster (3) on throttle control cable (1) until throttle
cam stop (5) touches carburetor stop plate (6). Tighten
jam nut on throttle control cable (1) adjuster (3); release
throttle control grip.
7.
Turn handlebars fully to right. Turn adjuster (3) on idle
control cable (2) until end of cable housing just touches
the carburetor cable guide.
8.
Twist and release throttle control grip a few times. Carburetor throttle must return to idle position each time throttle grip is released. If this is not the case, turn adjuster (3)
on idle control cable (2) (shortening cable housing) until
throttle control functions properly.
9.
Tighten jam nut on idle control cable (2) adjuster (3).
Recheck operation of throttle control (Step 7).
10. Slide rubber boot (4) over each cable adjuster (3).
Recheck engine slow idle speed; adjust if required.
1
2
5
1.
2.
3.
Throttle control cable
Idle control cable
Cable adjuster
4.
5.
6.
Rubber boot
Throttle cam stop
Carburetor stop plate
Figure 1-41. Carburetor
11. Install air cleaner. See AIR CLEANER, INSTALLATION
in Section 4.
IDLE ADJUSTMENT
Check idle adjustment:
●
Before every ride.
●
At every scheduled service interval.
See IGNITION TIMING on page 1-30.
1-29
IGNITION TIMING
INSPECTION
x0001c2x
Check ignition timing:
●
At every 5000 mile (8000 km) service interval.
Check for proper RPM and ignition timing as follows:
1.
See Figure 1-42. Thread TIMING MARK VIEW PLUG
(Part No. HD 96295-65D) into timing inspection hole. Be
sure view plug does not touch flywheel.
Inspection hole
2.
Connect leads of INDUCTIVE TIMING LIGHT (Part No.
HD-33813) to front spark plug cable, to battery positive
terminal and to ground.
Timing mark
3.
Be sure vacuum hose is properly installed at carburetor
and at vacuum-operated electric switch (V.O.E.S.).
4.
Start engine. Set engine speed by turning idle adjustment screw clockwise to increase speed or counterclockwise to decrease speed. Use CARBURETOR IDLE
ADJUSTMENT TOOL (Part No. HD-33413) and TIP
(SNAP-ON Part No. TMP23A) as shown in Figure 1-43.
a.
On world models, idle speed is 950-1050 RPM.
b.
On California models, idle speed is 1150-1250 RPM.
5.
Timing light will flash each time ignition spark occurs.
Aim timing light into timing inspection hole. Front cylinder
advance timing mark should be centered in timing
inspection hole. If not, see ADJUSTMENT on page 1-31.
6.
Set engine slow idle speed as described in Step 4 with
engine running at normal operating temperature and with
enrichener control knob pushed in fully.
●
●
NOTE
Buells have an enrichener circuit that will cause the
engine to idle at approximately 2000 RPM with the
engine at normal operating temperature and the
enrichener knob pulled out fully. The increase in idle
speed is intended to alert the rider that the engine is
warmed up to normal operating temperature and that the
enrichener knob should be pushed in all the way. Continuing to use the enrichener circuit when the engine is at
normal operating temperature will cause fouled plugs.
Be sure the engine is warmed up to normal operating
temperature and the enrichener knob is pushed all the
way in before adjusting engine idle speed. Be aware that,
because there are variations in individual components, it
is possible for a properly warmed-up engine to idle at
2000 RPM with the enrichener knob pulled out partially.
1-30
Figure 1-42. Timing Inspection Hole
5599
1
1.
2.
2
Carburetor idle adjustment tool
(Part No. HD-33413)
Tip (Snap-On Part No. TMP23A)
Figure 1-43. Adjusting Idle Speed
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Pop rivet (2)
Timer cover
Screw (2)
Inner cover
Ignition gasket
Timer plate stud (2)
Bolt
Sensor assembly
Trigger rotor
Seal
Gearcase cover
Spark plug (2)
Ignition coil
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
Front spark plug cable
Rear spark plug cable
V.O.E.S. connector [P7]
V.O.E.S.
Cable strap
Terminal pin
Timer connector [P16]
Secondary lock
Ignition module connector [P10]
Ignition module
Washer (2)
Screw (2)
17
22
16
23
14
15
18
24
19
25
21
13
12
10
20
9
8
11
3
7
6
1
5
4
b0223x7x
2
Figure 1-44. Ignition System Components
ADJUSTMENT
1.
2.
3.
See Figure 1-44. Remove outer cover pop rivets (1),
outer timer cover (2), inner cover screws (3), inner cover
(4) and gasket (5).
With timing light aimed into inspection hole, rotate sensor
assembly (8) until front cylinder advance timing mark is
centered in timing inspection hole.
4.
Tighten timer plate studs (6).
5.
Loosen timer plate studs (6) just enough to allow sensor
assembly (8) to be rotated using a screwdriver in the
plate’s notch.
Install gasket (5), inner cover (4), inner cover screws (3),
timer cover (2) and new outer cover rivets (1).
6.
Remove TIMING MARK VIEW PLUG from timing inspection hole. Install hex socket timing plug.
1-31
VACUUM-OPERATED ELECTRIC SWITCH (V.O.E.S)
ADJUSTMENT/TESTING
2855
3
Timing Mark Method
5
1
Verify engine ignition timing. See IGNITION TIMING on
page 1-30. Adjust ignition timing, if necessary, and then perform the following V.O.E.S. check:
1.
2.
3.
Run engine at regular idle. Disconnect V.O.E.S. vacuum
hose from carburetor fitting. See VACUUM-OPERATED
ELECTRIC SWITCH (V.O.E.S) in Section 7.
a.
On world models, idle speed is 950-1050 RPM.
b.
On California models, idle speed is 1150-1250 RPM.
Temporarily plug the open carburetor fitting. Ignition timing should retard (front cylinder advance timing mark disappears from view in timing inspection hole) and engine
RPM should decrease.
Connect V.O.E.S. vacuum hose to carburetor fitting. Timing mark should reappear and engine speed should
increase to previous RPM.
If speed does not first decrease and then increase as
described, check V.O.E.S. wire connection to ignition module.
Ohmmeter and Vacuum Pump Method
The V.O.E.S. can also be checked using an ohmmeter and a
VACUUM PUMP (Part No. HD-23738).
1.
Remove V.O.E.S. from vehicle. See VACUUM-OPERATED ELECTRIC SWITCH (V.O.E.S) in Section 7.
2.
See Figure 1-45. Connect two ohmmeter leads to the two
V.O.E.S. leads.
3.
Connect vacuum pump to V.O.E.S. vacuum fitting.
4.
Slowly squeeze vacuum pump handle. Observe vacuum
gauge and ohmmeter readings. Ohmmeter should indicate switch closed (zero ohms) with an applied vacuum
of 5.0-6.0 in. (127.0-152.4 mm) mercury (Hg). If a vacuum reading of more than 6.0 in. (152.4 mm) Hg or less
than 5.0 in. (127.0 mm) Hg is required to close the
switch, then the switch must be replaced.
5.
Install V.O.E.S. See VACUUM-OPERATED ELECTRIC
SWITCH (V.O.E.S) in Section 7.
1-32
4
2
1.
2.
3.
V.O.E.S.
V.O.E.S. leads
Ohmmeter
4.
5.
Ohmmeter probes
Vacuum pump
Figure 1-45. Checking V.O.E.S. Using Ohmmeter
and Vacuum Pump
HANDLEBARS
INSPECTION
5589
Check handlebar adjustment:
●
Before every ride.
1.
See Figure 1-46. Check steering motion range to both
fork stops. Each handlebar should be spaced equally
between the windscreen and fuel tank and parts should
not make contact.
2.
Handlebars should be equally spaced between outside
edge of handlebar clamp and inside edge of mirror
mounts.
If necessary, adjust handlebars as described below.
5590
ADJUSTMENT
1CAUTION
Never adjust handlebars using excessive force or damage to handlebars might result.
NOTE
Windscreen and instrument support must be removed to
access front clamp screws.
1.
Remove windscreen. See WINDSCREEN in Section 2.
2.
Remove instrument support. See SPEEDOMETER AND
TACHOMETER in Section 2.
3.
See Figure 1-47. Loosen clamp screws.
4.
Move handlebar to desired position.
5.
Tighten clamp screws to 10-12 ft-lbs (13.6-16.2 Nm).
Figure 1-46. Testing Handlebars
5576
NOTE
Tighten front clamp screws first.
6.
Install instrument support. See SPEEDOMETER AND
TACHOMETER in Section 2.
7.
Install windscreen. See WINDSCREEN in Section 2.
8.
Check steering motion range to both fork stops. Each
handlebar should be spaced equally between windscreen and fuel tank and parts should not make contact.
Clamp
Figure 1-47. Adjusting Handlebars
If handlebar needs further adjustment, repeat ADJUSTMENT beginning with Step 1.
1-33
HEADLAMP
INSPECTION
b0008b7x
35 in.
(889 mm)
1WARNING
Do not modify ignition wiring to permit motorcycle operation with headlamp off. Operating with headlamp off may
reduce your visibility to other motorists and could cause
an accident resulting in personal injury.
Check headlamp alignment:
●
When a new rider buys the motorcycle.
●
When there is a change in load (luggage, etc.)
25 ft
(7.62 M)
Check headlamp beam for proper height and lateral alignment as follows:
1.
Verify correct front and rear tire inflation pressure. See
TIRES AND WHEELS on page 1-18.
2.
Place motorcycle on level floor (or pavement) in an area
with minimum light.
3.
See Figure 1-48. Point front of motorcycle toward a
screen or wall which is 25 ft (7.62 M) away from front tire
contact patch on floor (i.e., directly below front axle).
4.
Draw a horizontal line, on screen or wall, which is 35 in.
(889 mm) above floor.
5.
Have a person whose weight is roughly the same as that
of the principal rider sit on motorcycle seat. Weight of
rider will compress vehicle suspension slightly.
6.
Stand motorcycle upright with both tires resting on floor
and with front wheel held in straight alignment (directly
forward).
7.
Turn ignition switch to IGN. Set handlebar headlamp
switch to HIGH beam position.
8.
Check light beam for proper height alignment. Main
beam of light (broad, flat pattern of light) should be centered on horizontal line on screen or wall (i.e. equal area
of light above and below line).
9.
Check light beam for proper lateral alignment. Main
beam of light should be directed straight ahead (i.e.
equal area of light to right and left of center).
ADJUSTMENT
If headlamp requires adjustment, perform the following:
1.
See Figure 1-49. Loosen both adjuster screws (metric).
2.
See Figure 1-48. Tilt headlamp up or down to aim it in
relation to the horizontal line. At the same time, turn
headlamp right or left to direct light beam straight ahead.
3.
Tighten both adjuster screws (metric) to 6-8 ft-lbs (8.110.8 Nm).
1-34
Figure 1-48. Checking Headlamp Alignment
5601
Headlamp adjuster
screw (metric)
Figure 1-49. Adjusting Headlamp
STORAGE
1WARNING
GENERAL
If the motorcycle will not be operated for several months, such
as during the winter season, there are several things which
should be done to protect parts against corrosion, to preserve
the battery and to prevent the buildup of gum and varnish in
the carburetor.
This work should be performed by your local Buell dealer
following Service Manual procedures.
Do not apply any oil to brake rotors or brake pads. Oil on
brake pads degrades braking efficiency and can result in
an accident causing personal injury.
7.
Wash painted and chrome-plated surfaces. Apply a light
film of oil to exposed unpainted surfaces.
8.
If motorcycle is to be covered, use a material that will
breathe, such as light canvas. Plastic materials that do
not breathe promote the formation of condensation.
1WARNING
Gasoline is flammable. Do not store motorcycle having
gasoline in tank within the home or garage where open
flames, pilot lights, sparks or electric motors are present.
Inadequate safety precautions may cause an accident
resulting in personal injury.
1.
Fill fuel tank and add a gasoline stabilizer. Use one of
the commercially available gasoline stabilizers following
the manufacturer’s instructions.
Run engine until
gasoline has had a chance to reach carburetor float
bowl. Turn fuel supply valve OFF.
2.
Fill the oil tank. Pinch off (or remove and plug) the line
leading from the oil tank bottom to the oil pump feed
fitting. This prevents oil from seeping past the check ball
into the oil pump and filling the engine flywheel
compartment.
3.
Remove the spark plugs, inject a few squirts of engine oil
into each cylinder and crank the engine 5-6 revolutions.
Reinstall spark plugs.
4.
Adjust primary chain.
5.
Adjust secondary drive belt.
6.
Check tire inflation. If the motorcycle will be stored for an
extended period of time, securely support the motorcycle
under the frame so that all weight is off the tires.
REMOVAL FROM STORAGE
1WARNING
After extended periods of storage and prior to starting
vehicle, place transmission in gear, disengage clutch and
push vehicle back and forth a few times to ensure proper
clutch disengagement. Improper clutch disengagement
could result in personal injury.
1.
Remove and inspect spark plugs. Replace if necessary.
2.
Clean air filter element and lubricate if necessary.
3.
If fuel tank was drained, fill fuel tank with fresh gasoline.
4.
If oil feed line was pinched off or plugged, unplug it and
reconnect.
5.
Start the engine and run until it reaches normal operating
temperature. Check fluids and refill to proper levels if
required.
6.
a.
Check engine oil level.
b.
Check the transmission lubricant level.
Perform all of the checks in the PRE-RIDING CHECK
LIST in the Owner’s Manual.
1-35
TROUBLESHOOTING
GENERAL
Starts But Runs Irregularly or Misses
The following check list can be helpful in locating most
operating troubles. Refer to the appropriate sections in this
Service Manual for detailed procedures.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
ENGINE
Starter Motor Does Not Operate or Does
Not Turn Engine Over
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Engine stop switch in OFF position.
Ignition key switch not ON.
Discharged battery or loose or corroded connections.
(Solenoid chatters.)
Starter control relay or solenoid not functioning.
Electric starter shaft pinion gear not engaging or overrunning clutch slipping.
Engine Turns Over But Does Not Start
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
Fuel tank empty.
Fuel supply valve turned OFF.
Fuel supply valve or filter clogged.
Discharged battery, loose or broken battery terminal
connections.
Fouled spark plugs.
Loose or shorting spark plug cables or connections.
Ignition timing badly out of adjustment.
Loose wire connection at coil or battery connection or
plug between ignition sensor and module.
Ignition coil not functioning.
Ignition module not functioning.
Ignition sensor not functioning.
Sticking or damaged valve or valves.
Engine flooded with gasoline as a result of overchoking.
Engine oil too heavy (winter operation).
Starts Hard
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Spark plugs in bad condition, have improper gap or are
partially fouled.
Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting.
Battery nearly discharged.
Loose wire connection at one of the battery terminals, at
coil or at plug between ignition sensor and module.
Carburetor controls not adjusted correctly.
Ignition coil not functioning.
Engine oil too heavy (winter operation).
Ignition not timed properly. See dealer.
Vapor vent valve plugged or carburetor fuel line closed
off restricting fuel flow.
Water or dirt in fuel system and carburetor.
Enrichener valve inoperative.
Air leak at intake manifold.
Valves sticking.
1-36
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting.
Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
Ignition coil not functioning.
Ignition module not functioning.
Ignition sensor not functioning.
Battery nearly discharged.
Damaged wire or loose connection at battery terminals
or coil.
Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire insulation.
Water or dirt in fuel system and carburetor or filter.
Fuel tank filler cap vent plugged or carburetor float bowl
vent closed off.
Carburetor controls improperly adjusted.
Air leak at intake manifold or air filter.
Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
Weak or broken valve springs.
Incorrect valve timing.
Spark Plug Fouls Repeatedly
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Incorrect spark plug.
Piston rings badly worn or broken.
Fuel mixture too rich for conditions (see CARBURETOR
TROUBLESHOOTING).
Valve stem seals worn or damaged.
Valve guides badly worn.
Pre-Ignition or Detonation
(Knocks or Pings)
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Excessive carbon deposit on piston head or combustion
chamber.
Incorrect heat range spark plug.
Spark plugs not firing.
Ignition timing advanced.
Fuel octane rating too low.
Intake manifold vacuum leak.
Overheating
1.
2.
3.
4.
Insufficient oil supply or oil not circulating.
Leaking valves.
Heavy carbon deposit.
Ignition timing retarded.
Valve Train Noise
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Hydraulic lifter not functioning properly.
Bent push rod.
Cam, cam gears or cam bushings worn.
Rocker arm binding on shaft.
Valve sticking in guide.
Excessive Vibration
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Engine tie-bars loose, broken or improperly spaced.
Lower mounting bolts loose.
Broken frame.
Primary chain badly worn or links tight as a result of
insufficient lubrication.
Wheels not aligned and/or tires worn.
Internal engine problem.
ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM
Oil Does Not Return To Oil Tank
1.
2.
3.
4.
Oil tank empty.
Return pump gears damaged.
Oil feed pump not functioning.
Restricted oil lines or fittings.
FUEL
Carburetor Floods
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
TRANSMISSION
Shifts Hard
1.
2.
3.
1.
2.
1.
2.
3.
3.
4.
Engine Leaks Oil From Cases, Push Rods,
Hoses, Etc.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Loose parts.
Imperfect seal at gaskets, push rod cover, washers, etc.
To aid locating leaks, use BLACK LIGHT LEAK
DETECTOR (Part No. HD-35457).
Restricted oil return line to tank.
Restricted breather passage(s) to air cleaner.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Alternator Does Not Charge
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Regulator-rectifier module not functioning.
Rectifier not grounded.
Engine ground wire loose or broken.
Loose or broken wires in charging circuit.
Stator not functioning.
Rotor not functioning.
Alternator Charge Rate Is Below Normal
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Regulator-rectifier module not functioning.
Stator not functioning.
Rotor not functioning.
Weak battery.
Loose connections.
Clutch dragging slightly.
Shifter forks (inside transmission) damaged.
Corners worn off shifter clutch dogs
transmission).
(inside
Jumps Out of Gear
Engine Uses Too Much Oil or
Smokes Excessively
Piston rings badly worn or broken.
Valve stem seals worn or damaged.
Valve guides worn.
Excessive “pumping” of throttle control grip.
Inlet valve sticking.
Inlet valve and/or valve seat worn or damaged.
Dirt or other foreign matter between valve and its seat.
Float misadjusted or filled with fuel.
Shifter pawl improperly adjusted.
Shifter engaging parts (inside transmission) badly worn
and rounded.
Shifter forks bent.
Damaged gears.
CLUTCH
Slips
1.
2.
Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
Worn friction plates.
Drags or Does Not Release
1.
2.
Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
Clutch plates excessively warped.
Chatters
1.
Friction or steel plates worn, warped or dragging.
CHASSIS
Irregular/Inadequate Brake Action
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Master cylinder low on fluid.
Brake line contains air bubbles.
Master or wheel cylinder piston worn.
Brake pads covered with grease or oil.
Brake pads badly worn (1/16 in. (1.6 mm) minimum lining
thickness).
Brake rotor badly worn or warped.
Brake pads dragging or excessive braking (brake fades
due to heat buildup).
Insufficient brake pedal or hand lever freeplay (brake
drags).
1-37
Handling Irregularities
7.
Irregular or peaked front tire tread wear.
1.
8.
Tire and wheel unbalanced.
9.
Steering head bearings improperly adjusted. Correct
adjustment and replace pitted or worn bearings and
races. See FORK STEM AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY in
Section 2.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Tires improperly inflated. Check TIRES AND WHEELS
on page 1-18. Do not overinflate.
Loose wheel axle nuts. Tighten front nut to 48-53 ft-lbs
(65.1-71.9 Nm). Tighten rear nut to 66-73 ft-lbs (90-99
Nm).
Excessive wheel hub bearing play.
Rear wheel out of alignment with frame and front wheel.
Rims and tires out-of-true sideways (tire runout should
not be more than 0.080 in. (2.03 mm)).
Rims and tires out-of-round or eccentric with hub (tire
runout should not be more than 0.090 in. (2.29 mm)).
1-38
10. Shock absorber not functioning normally.
11. Heavy front end loading. Non-standard equipment on the
front end (such as heavy radio receivers, extra lighting
equipment or luggage) tends to cause unstable handling.
2
SPECIFICATIONS
DIMENSIONS
IN.
MM
55
1397
Overall Length
79.5
Overall Width
Wheel Base
Seat Height
CHASSIS
U.S.
LITERS
Fuel Tank (including reserve)
4.0 gallons
15.14
2019
Reserve
0.6 gallons
2.27
30
762
Oil Tank
2.0 quarts
1.89
29.5
749
Transmission
1.0 quart
0.95
IN.
MM
Road Clearance
5.2
132
Front Wheel Travel
4.7
119.4
Rear Wheel Travel
4.9
124.5
Trail
3.9
99
Rake
25 degrees
CAPACITIES
PRESSURE
FOR SOLO
RIDING
PRESSURE
AT GVWR
Front-Dunlop Sportmax
Radial II 120/70 ZR 17
32 PSI
(2.2 bar)
36 PSI
(2.5 bar)
Rear-Dunlop Sportmax
Radial II 170/60 ZR 17
36 PSI
(2.5 bar)
38 PSI
(2.8 bar)
TIRE AND POSITION
1WARNING
WEIGHT
LBS.
KG
S1 Shipping weight
446
202
GVWR
820
372
GAWR - Front
340
154
GAWR - Rear
480
218
NOTE
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) (maximum allowable
loaded vehicle weight) and corresponding Gross Axle Weight
Ratings (GAWR) are given on an information decal located on
the front frame steering head.
Do not inflate any tire beyond its maximum inflation pressure as specified on tire sidewall. Overinflation may
cause tire to suddenly deflate leading to personal injury.
BRAKE ROTORS
IN.
MM
Front rotor minimum thickness
0.17
4.3
Rear rotor minimum thickness
0.19
4.8
2-1
ITEM
Clutch cable, primary
cover fitting
TORQUE
NOTES
3-5 ft-lbs
4-6.87 Nm
turn clockwise to install, page 2-45
Clutch clamp screw
30-33 in-lbs
3.4-4.0 Nm
metric, page 2-45
Drive support fastener
30-35 ft-lbs
40.7-47.4 Nm
page 2-53
Exhaust manifold nuts
6-8 ft-lbs
8.1-10.8 Nm
page 2-50
Fender mounting screw, lower
10-15 in-lbs
1.1-1.7 Nm
page 2-54
Fender mounting screw, upper
20-25 in-lbs
2.3-2.8 Nm
metric, page 2-54
Front axle nut
48-53 ft-lbs
65.1-71.9 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue), metric,
page 2-6, page 2-10
Front axle pinch screw
13-15 ft-lbs
17.6-20.3 Nm
metric, page 2-10
Front brake caliper screw
26-28 ft-lbs
35.2-38.0 Nm
2 sizes, page 2-21
Front brake carrier screw
7.5-8.5 ft-lbs
10.2-11.5 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue), page 2-9
Front brake line clamp screw
30-35 in-lbs
3.4-4.0 Nm
page 2-22
Front brake master cylinder
clamp screw
80-90 in-lbs
9.0-10.2 Nm
metric, page 2-19
Front brake rotor carrier screw
20-22 ft-lbs
27.1-29.8 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue), page 2-9
Front caliper banjo bolt
16-20 ft-lbs
21.7-27.1 Nm
page 2-21, page 2-22
4-6 ft-lbs
5.4-8.1 Nm
page 2-22
Front caliper center bolt
11-13 ft-lbs
14.9-17.6 Nm
page 2-21
Front caliper mounting bolt
30-33 ft-lbs
40.7-44.7 Nm
page 2-21
Front fork triple clamp screw
18-20 ft-lbs
24.4-27.1 Nm
LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE, page 2-31
Front master cylinder
banjo bolt
17-20 ft-lbs
23.0-27.1 Nm
metric, page 2-19, page 2-22
Front master cylinder
cover screw
9-13 in-lbs
1.0-1.5 Nm
Fuel tank screw
9-11 ft-lbs
12.2-14.9 Nm
page 2-55
Handlebar bolt, lower clamp
30-33 ft-lbs
40.7-44.7 Nm
page 2-49
Handlebar screw, upper clamp
10-12 ft-lbs
13.6-16.2 Nm
page 2-49
Header tiebar screw
5-7 ft-lbs
6.8-9.5 Nm
page 2-50
Headlamp adjusting screw
6-8 ft-lbs
8.1-10.8 Nm
metric, page 2-56
Instrument support screw
7-9 ft-lbs
9.5-12.2 Nm
page 2-46
Muffler clamp
50-55 ft-lbs
67.8-74.6 Nm
discard after use, page 2-50
Muffler mounting bolt, front
22-25 ft-lbs
29.8-33.9 Nm
page 2-50
Muffler mounting bolt, rear
22-25 ft-lbs
29.8-33.9 Nm
page 2-50
Muffler support mounting
bolt, front
30-33 ft-lbs
40.7-44.7 Nm
page 2-50
Muffler support mounting
bolt, rear
12-15 ft-lbs
16.3-20.3 Nm
page 2-50
Front caliper bleeder valve
2-2
page 2-19, page 2-21
ITEM
Rear axle nut
TORQUE
NOTES
66-73 ft-lbs
89.5-98.9 Nm
metric, page 2-6, page 2-13
9.5-12.5 ft-lbs
12.9-17.0 Nm
metric, page 2-26, page 2-27
Rear brake caliper
bleeder valve
6-9 ft-lbs
8.1-12.2 Nm
metric, page 2-26, page 2-27
Rear brake caliper
mounting screw
18-22 ft-lbs
24.4-29.8 Nm
metric, page 2-26
7-8 ft-lbs
9.5-10.8 Nm
LOCTITE SEALANT WITH TEFLON, page 2-27
10-12 ft-lbs
13.6-16.2 Nm
page 2-27
Rear brake reservoir
mounting screw
12-15 in-lbs
1.4-1.7 Nm
page 2-24
Rear brake rotor screw
35-40 ft-lbs
47.5-54.2 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue), metric,
page 2-12
Rear master cylinder banjo bolt
10-12 ft-lbs
13.6-16.2 Nm
metric, page 2-24, page 2-27
Rear master cylinder
mounting screw
8-10 ft-lbs
10.8-13.6 Nm
page 2-24
Rear master cylinder rod to
brake pedal screw
10-12 ft-lbs
13.6-16.2 Nm
page 2-24
Rear shock mounting screw
40-45 ft-lbs
54.2-61.0 Nm
metric, page 2-37
Sprocket bolt
55-65 ft-lbs
74.6-88.1 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 272 (red), page 2-12
Sprocket cover mounting screw
12-17 in-lbs
1.4-1.9 Nm
page 2-53
Sprocket cover screw
4-6 ft-lbs
5.4-8.6 Nm
page 2-53
Swingarm pinch screw
27-30 ft-lbs
36.6-40.7 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue), page 2-34
Swingarm/drive support screw
20-25 ft-lbs
27.1-33.9 Nm
page 2-53
Switchgear housing screws,
left side
25-33 in-lbs
2.8-3.7 Nm
metric, page 2-45
Switchgear housing screws,
right side
12-17 in-lbs
1.4-1.9 Nm
metric, page 2-43
Tie bar bolt
30-33 ft-lbs
40.7-44.7 Nm
page 2-34
Valve stem nut
42-44 in-lbs
4.7-5.0 Nm
page 2-16
Rear brake caliper banjo bolt
Rear brake lamp switch
Rear brake line clamp screw
2-3
TIRE SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL
1WARNING
Tires must be correctly matched to wheel rims. Only the
tires listed in the fitment tables below can be used for
replacement. Mismatching tires and rims can cause damage to the tire bead during mounting. Using tires other
than those specified can adversely affect motorcycle
handling and may result in personal injury.
Tire sizes are molded on the sidewall. Rim size and contour
are marked on the rim’s exterior surface.
Example: MT 3.5 x 17.0 DOT
MT designates the rim contour. The 3.5 is the width of the
bead seat measured in inches. The 17.0 is the normal diameter of the rim in inches, measured at the bead seat diameter.
DOT means that the rim meets Department of Transportation
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.
See the tables below.
Table 2-1. Tire Fitment – Tubeless Cast Marchesini Wheels
WHEEL SIZE
& POSITION
CONTOUR &
RIM SIZE
RIM VALVE
HOLE DIAMETER
DUNLOP SPORTMAX RADIAL II
TIRE SIZE
17 in. – Front
MT 3.5 x 17.0 DOT
0.33 in.
120/70 ZR17
17 in. – Rear
MT 5.0 x 17.0 DOT
0.33 in.
170/60 ZR17
Table 2-2. Tire Fitment – Tubeless Aluminum P/M Wheels
2-4
WHEEL SIZE
& POSITION
CONTOUR &
RIM SIZE
RIM VALVE
HOLE DIAMETER
DUNLOP SPORTMAX RADIAL II
TIRE SIZE
17 in. – Front
MT 3.5 x 17.0 DOT
0.33 in.
120/70 ZR17
17 in. – Rear
MT 5.5 x 17.0 DOT
0.33 in.
170/60 ZR17
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER
GENERAL
5711
A 17-digit serial number, or Vehicle Identification Number
(V.I.N.), is stamped on the right side of the steering head (ex.,
4MZSS11J1T3200001). Also affixed to the steering head at
this location is an information plate bearing the V.I.N. code.
See Figure 2-1. An abbreviated V.I.N. is stamped on the front
left side of the crankcase.
NOTE
Always give the V.I.N. or abbreviated V.I.N. when ordering
parts or making inquiries about your Buell motorcycle.
Figure 2-1. Abbreviated V.I.N. Location
Motorcycle Made in U.S.A.
Manufacturer and Make: Buell Motorcycle Company
Model Designation: SS = S1 Lightning
11 = 49 state
56 = California
Engine
Horsepower Code
Factory Check Digit: Can be 0-9 or x
Year of Manufacture: T = 1996
20 = World
Market Designation 22 = California
See Note
Sequential Number
4
MZ
SS
11
J
*
T
3
20
0001
*Varies - can be 0 through 9 or X
Sample V.I.N. as it appears on the steering head - 4MZS S 11J1T3200001
Sample abbreviated V.I.N. as it appears on the left side crankcase- S S 11T200001
NOTE
Two market destination characters have been used beginning with sequential number 38.
Figure 2-2. Vehicle Identification Number (V.I.N.)
2-5
WHEELS
GENERAL
b0195x2x
Good handling and maximum tire mileage are directly related
to the care of wheels and tires. Regularly inspect wheels and
tires for damage and wear. If handling problems occur, check
the TROUBLESHOOTING guide in Section 1 or see the table
below for a list of probable causes.
See TIRES AND WHEELS in Section 1. Keep tires inflated to
the recommended air pressure. Always balance the wheel
after replacing a tire.
1WARNING
Do not inflate any tire beyond its maximum inflation pressure as specified on tire sidewall. Overinflation may
cause tire to suddenly deflate leading to personal injury.
TROUBLESHOOTING
See Figure 2-3. Check tire inflation pressure at least once
each week. At the same time, inspect tire tread for punctures,
cuts, breaks and other damage. Repeat the inspection before
long trips.
Figure 2-3. Checking Tire Inflation Pressure
Table 2-3. Wheel Service
CHECK FOR
REMEDY
1.
Loose axle nuts.
Tighten front axle nut (metric) to 48-53 ft-lbs (65.1-71.9 Nm). Tighten rear
axle nut (metric) to 66-73 ft-lbs (89.5-98.9 Nm).
2.
Excessive side-play or radial (up-anddown) play in wheel hubs.
Replace wheel hub bearings.
3.
Alignment of rear wheel in frame or
with front wheel.
Check WHEEL BALANCING on page 2-17 or repair swingarm as described
under SWINGARM on page 2-33.
4.
Rims and tires out-of-true sideways;
should not be more than 0.080 in.
(2.03 mm).
Replace rims. See TIRES, INSTALLATION on page 2-16.
5.
Rims and tires out-of-round or eccentric with hub; should not be more than
0.090 in. (2.29 mm).
See Item 4 above.
6.
Irregular or peaked front tire wear.
Replace as described under FRONT WHEEL (page 2-8), REAR WHEEL
(page 2-11) and TIRES (page 2-15).
7.
Correct tire inflation.
Inflate tires to correct pressure. See SPECIFICATIONS on page 2-1.
8.
Correct tire and wheel balance.
Static balance may be satisfactory if dynamic balancing facilities are not
available. However, dynamic balancing is strongly recommended.
9.
Steering head bearings.
Correct adjustment and replace pitted or worn bearings. See FORK STEM
AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY on page 2-32.
10. Damper tubes.
Check for leaks. See FRONT FORK on page 2-28.
11. Shock absorbers.
Check damping action and mounts. See SWINGARM on page 2-33.
12. Swingarm bearings.
Check for looseness. See SWINGARM on page 2-33.
2-6
1WARNING
To prevent personal injury, use the following guidelines
when installing a new tire or repairing a flat:
1.
Always locate and eliminate the cause of the original
tire failure.
2.
Do not patch or vulcanize a tire casing. These procedures weaken the casing and increase the risk of a
blowout.
3.
The use of tires other than those specified can
adversely affect handling resulting in personal injury.
4.
Tires and wheels are critical safety items. Since the
servicing of these components requires special
tools and skills, Buell recommends that you see your
dealer for these services.
1WARNING
Excessively worn tires adversely affect motorcycle traction, steering and handling and could result in personal
injury.
At regular intervals of 5000 miles (8000 km) or whenever handling irregularities are noted, perform the recommended service checks. See Table 2-3.
If tires must be replaced, same as original equipment tires
must be used. Other tires may not fit correctly and may be
hazardous to use.
2-7
FRONT WHEEL
REMOVAL
5680
1.
See Figure 2-4. Raise front wheel off floor using FRONT
WHEEL SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41395) and S1
LIFT ADAPTER (Part No. B-41686).
2.
Remove front brake caliper. See FRONT BRAKE CALIPER, REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY on page 2-20.
NOTE
Do not operate front brake lever with front wheel removed or
caliper pistons may be forced out. Reseating pistons requires
caliper disassembly.
3.
See Figure 2-5. Insert screwdriver/rod through hole in
axle (1) and loosen front axle nut (4) (metric).
4.
Loosen pinch screws (2) (metric).
5.
Remove front axle nut (4) and washer (3). Pull front axle
out of hub while supporting front wheel.
6.
See Figure 2-6. Detach speedometer drive spacer (3)
and speedometer drive (4) from left side of wheel.
Remove front wheel.
Figure 2-4. Front Wheel Support Stand (Part No. B-41395)
with S1 Lift Adapter (Part No. B-41686)
5710
DISASSEMBLY
1.
See Figure 2-6. Move wheel to bench area. On the side
of the wheel opposite the brake rotor, remove left axle
spacer (5).
2.
On brake rotor side of wheel, remove right axle
spacer (12).
3.
Remove wheel bearings (6, 11) using BUSHING AND
BEARING PULLER (Part No. HD-95760-69A) and 3/4 in.
COLLET (Part No. HD-95767-69A).
4.
Remove six locknuts (14), washers (21), spring washers
(20), screws (19) and brake drive pins (18). Remove
brake rotor (17).
5.
Remove five screws (16) and front brake carrier (15).
6.
Remove tire. See TIRES, REMOVAL on page 2-15.
CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
1.
Thoroughly clean all parts in solvent.
1WARNING
Never use compressed air to “spin-dry” bearings. Very
high bearing speeds can damage unlubricated bearings.
Spinning bearings with compressed air can also cause a
bearing to fly apart, which may result in personal injury.
2.
Inspect all parts for damage or excessive wear.
3.
Inspect brake rotor. Replace rotor if warped or badly
scored. Measure rotor thickness for excessive wear. Minimum rotor thickness is 0.17 in. (4.4 mm).
2-8
2
1
1.
2.
Hole in front axle
Pinch screws (4)
(metric)
3
3.
4.
4
Washer
Front axle nut (metric)
Figure 2-5. Front Wheel Mounting
b0196x2x
3
5
2
1
4
6
8
7
10
12
9
11
1.
2.
3.
14
20
21
13
18
16
15
19
17
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
Nut (metric)
Washer
Speedometer drive
spacer
Speedometer drive
Left axle spacer
Wheel bearing
Wheel
Valve stem
Wheel weight
Spacer
Wheel bearing
Right axle spacer
Front axle
Locknut (6)
Front brake carrier
Screw (5)
Front brake rotor
Brake drive pin (6)
Screw (6)
Spring washer (6)
Washer (6)
Figure 2-6. Front Wheel
ASSEMBLY
1WARNING
Do not allow brake fluid, bearing grease, lubricants, etc.
to contact brake rotor or reduced braking ability will
occur, possibly resulting in personal injury.
1.
2.
See Figure 2-6. Verify that the front brake carrier is thoroughly clean. Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242
(blue) to each screw (16). Install carrier (15) on hub with
five screws. Tighten to 20-22 ft-lbs (27.1-29.8 Nm).
Verify that the brake rotor is thoroughly clean. Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue) to each screw (19).
Install rotor on front brake carrier with six screws, brake
drive pins (18), spring washers (20), washers (21) and
locknuts (14). Tighten to 7.5-8.5 ft-lbs (10.2-11.5 Nm).
3.
Install spacer (10).
4.
Install new wheel bearings (6, 10) into hub using suitable
driver. Press on outer race only.
5.
On the side of the wheel opposite the brake rotor insert
left axle spacer (5) into hub until it seats in bore. Spacer
sleeve must not be cocked or tilted in bore.
6.
On the right side of the wheel insert right axle spacer
(12) into hub until it seats in bore. Spacer sleeve must
not be cocked or tilted in bore.
7.
Install tire, if removed. See TIRES, INSTALLATION on
page 2-16.
8.
Verify that wheel and tire are true. See CHECKING
CAST RIM RUNOUT on page 2-14.
2-9
INSTALLATION
1.
Apply LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT to axle.
2.
Position wheel between forks with brake rotor on right
side of vehicle. With pinch screws (metric) loose, insert
threaded end of axle through right side fork. Push axle
through fork and wheel hub until axle begins to emerge
from left side of hub.
b0197x2x
Speedometer
drive tab
Speedometer drive
1CAUTION
Speedometer drive tab must be properly inserted or damage to the unit will occur. If drive tab is damaged, it must
be replaced.
3.
See Figure 2-7. Align speedometer drive tab and wheel
hub. Push axle through speedometer drive, speedometer
drive spacer and left fork leg.
4.
Compress the front suspension to make sure it is free
and not binding.
5.
See Figure 2-6. Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242
(blue) to axle nut. Install washer (2) and axle nut (1) (metric) over threaded end of axle. Insert screwdriver or steel
rod through hole in axle on right side of vehicle. While
holding axle stationary, tighten axle nut to 48-63 ft-lbs
(65.1-71.9 Nm).
6.
See Figure 2-5. Tighten the four front axle pinch screws
(2) (metric) to 13-15 ft-lbs (17.6-20.3 Nm).
7.
Install front brake caliper. See FRONT BRAKE CALIPER, INSTALLATION on page 2-21.
2-10
Figure 2-7. Speedometer Drive
REAR WHEEL
REMOVAL
1.
5574
Raise rear wheel off floor using REAR WHEEL SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41174).
2.
Remove rear fender. See FENDERS, REMOVAL/
INSTALLATION on page 2-54.
3.
Remove rear brake caliper. See REAR BRAKE CALIPER, REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY on page 2-25.
Rear axle
nut (metric)
NOTE
Do not operate rear brake pedal with rear wheel removed or
caliper piston may be forced out. Reseating piston requires
caliper disassembly.
4.
See Figure 2-8. Loosen rear axle nut (metric).
5.
Loosen rear axle adjuster nuts. Push wheel as far forward as possible.
6.
Slip secondary drive belt from bottom of rear wheel
sprocket and remove.
7.
See Figure 2-9. Remove rear axle nut (14) (metric), lockwasher (13), and washer (12). Pull axle (3) and washer
(4) out from left side and remove wheel.
Axle adjuster nut
Figure 2-8. Rear Wheel Mounting
b0013a2x
1
2
17
3
15
16
4
5
6
10
7
8
9
12
11
13
14
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
Screw (4) (metric)
Rear brake rotor
Rear axle
Washer
Wheel bearing
Spacer sleeve
Wheel
Valve stem
Wheel weight
Bearings (2)
Right axle spacer
Washer
Lockwasher
Axle nut (metric)
Belt sprocket
Washer (5)
Bolt (5)
Figure 2-9. Rear Wheel
2-11
DISASSEMBLY
1.
See Figure 2-10. Move wheel to bench area. On the
brake rotor side of the wheel, remove bearing using
BUSHING AND BEARING PULLER (Part No. HD95760-69A) and 1 1/8 in. COLLET (Part No. HD-9576969).
2.
Remove two bearings from sprocket side of wheel.
3.
See Figure 2-9. Remove four screws (1) (metric) to
remove rear brake rotor (2) from hub.
4.
Remove five bolts (17) and washers (16) on belt sprocket
(15). Remove belt sprocket from wheel.
4878
CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
1.
Thoroughly clean all parts in solvent.
1WARNING
Never use compressed air to “spin-dry” bearings. Very
high bearing speeds can damage unlubricated bearings.
Spinning bearings with compressed air can also cause a
bearing to fly apart, which may result in personal injury.
2.
Inspect all parts for damage or excessive wear.
3.
Inspect brake rotor. Replace rotor if warped or badly
scored. Measure rotor thickness for excessive wear. Minimum acceptable thickness (0.19 in. (4.8 mm)) is
stamped on side of rotor.
ASSEMBLY
1WARNING
Do not allow brake fluid, bearing grease, lubricants, etc.
to contact brake rotor or reduced braking ability will
occur, possibly resulting in personal injury.
1.
See Figure 2-9. Verify that brake rotor (2) is thoroughly
clean. Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue) to
each screw (1) (metric). Fasten rotor to hub with four
screws. Tighten to 35-40 ft-lbs (47.5-54.2 Nm).
Figure 2-10. Removing Wheel Bearing Using Bushing/
Bearing Puller (Part No. HD-95760-69A) and
1 1/8 in. Collet (Part No. HD-95769-69)
3.
On the sprocket side of the wheel, insert two bearings
(10) into hub until they contact shoulder for spacer
sleeve. Press bearings in separately, pressing on outer
race only.
4.
Insert spacer sleeve (6) into hub.
5.
On the brake rotor side of the wheel, insert bearing (5)
into hub until it contacts end of spacer sleeve. Press on
outer race only.
6.
Install tire, if removed. See TIRES, INSTALLATION on
page 2-16.
7.
Verify that wheel and tire are true. See CHECKING
CAST RIM RUNOUT on page 2-14.
NOTE
P/M wheels use a nut (not shown) with each screw (1).
2.
Apply two drops of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 272
(red) to threads of each sprocket bolt (17). Install belt
sprocket (15) using five bolts (17) and washers (16).
Tighten bolts to 55-65 ft-lbs (74.6-88.1 Nm).
2-12
INSTALLATION
1.
Place wheel centrally in the swingarm with the brake
rotor in the caliper. Slide wheel far enough forward to slip
belt over sprocket and then slide wheel back.
2.
See Figure 2-9. Apply LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT to axle (3).
3.
Insert axle (3) through washer (4), left side of swingarm,
rear brake caliper mount, wheel assembly, spacer (11)
and right side of swingarm.
4.
Install washer (12), lockwasher (13), and axle nut (14)
(metric) on right side of axle. Do not fully tighten rear axle
nut at this time.
5.
Install rear brake caliper. See REAR BRAKE CALIPER,
INSTALLATION on page 2-26.
6.
Check for proper belt tension and wheel alignment. See
REAR BELT DEFLECTION in Section 1.
7.
Tighten rear axle nut (14) (metric) to 66-73 ft-lbs (89.598.9 Nm).
8.
Install rear fender. See FENDERS, REMOVAL/INSTALLATION on page 2-54.
2-13
CHECKING CAST RIM RUNOUT
GENERAL
f1378x2x
Check wheels for lateral and radial runout before installing a
new tire.
Wheel Truing and Balancing
Stand (Part No. HD-99500-80)
Rim Lateral Runout
1.
See Figure 2-11. Install truing arbor in wheel hub and
place wheel in WHEEL TRUING AND BALANCING
STAND (Part No. HD-99500-80).
2.
Tighten arbor nuts so hub will turn on its bearings.
3.
Check rim lateral runout by placing a gauge rod or dial
indicator near the rim bead. Replace wheel if lateral
runout exceeds specification shown in Table 2-4.
Gauge rod
Rim Radial Runout
Figure 2-11. Checking Cast Rim Lateral Runout
1.
See Figure 2-12. Install truing arbor in wheel hub and
place wheel in WHEEL TRUING AND BALANCING
STAND (Part No. HD-99500-80).
2.
Tighten arbor nuts so hub will turn on its bearings.
3.
Check radial runout as shown. Replace wheel if runout
exceeds specification shown in Table 2-4.
f1379x2x
Wheel Truing and Balancing
Stand (Part No. HD-99500-80)
Table 2-4. Wheel Runout
WHEEL TYPE
Cast Marchesini
Aluminum P/M
MAXIMUM
LATERAL
RUNOUT
MAXIMUM
RADIAL
RUNOUT
0.040 in.
(1.02 mm)
0.030 in.
(0.76 mm)
0.020 in.
(0.51 mm)
0.020 in.
(0.51 mm)
Gauge rod
Figure 2-12. Checking Cast Rim Radial Runout
2-14
TIRES
GENERAL
b0198x2x
Tires should be inspected for punctures, cuts, breaks and
wear at least weekly.
1WARNING
Always check both tire sidewalls for arrows indicating
forward rotation. Some tires require different tire rotation
depending on whether tire is used on front or rear wheel.
Installing a tire with the wrong rotation could result in
personal injury.
Some tires have arrows molded into the tire sidewall. These
tires should be mounted on the rim with the arrow pointing in
the direction of forward rotation. The red circle on the sidewall
is a balance mark and should be located next to the valve
stem hole.
Figure 2-13. Loosening Beads from Rim Flange
REMOVAL
1.
A bead breaker machine
simplifies tire removal
Remove wheel from motorcycle. See FRONT WHEEL,
REMOVAL on page 2-8 or REAR WHEEL, REMOVAL
on page 2-11.
2.
Deflate tire.
3.
See Figure 2-13. Loosen both tire beads from rim flange.
b0199x2x
Pry bead over rim edge and
remove tire from rim
1WARNING
Do not use excessive force when starting bead over rim.
Excessive force may damage tire or rim and adversely
affect handling resulting in personal injury.
4.
5.
If a bead breaker machine is not available, attach RIM
PROTECTORS (Part No. HD-01289) to the rim. Using
tire tools (not sharp instruments), start upper bead over
edge of rim at valve. Repeat all around rim until first bead
is over rim.
See Figure 2-14. Push lower bead into rim well on one
side and insert tire tool underneath bead from opposite
side. Pry bead over rim edge. Remove tire from rim.
6.
Remove valve stem if it is damaged or leaks.
7.
Mount tire on TIRE SPREADER (Part No. HD-21000) for
inspection and repair procedures.
Figure 2-14. Starting Tire Off RIm
b0200x2x
Lubricate rim flange and both
beads before installation
CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
1.
Clean inside of tire.
2.
If rim is dirty or corroded, clean with a stiff wire brush.
3.
Inspect tire for wear and damage. Replace worn tires.
Use TIRE REPAIR KIT (Part No. HD-20000) for tire
repair. Follow the kit manufacturer’s instructions.
Figure 2-15. Starting Bead on Rim
2-15
INSTALLATION
●
●
b0087x2x
1WARNING
Only install original equipment (stock) tire valves
and valve caps. A valve or valve and cap combination that is too long may interfere with (strike) adjacent components, damage the valve and cause rapid
tire deflation. Rapid tire deflation could cause loss of
control and personal injury.
Tire lateral
runout 0.080 in.
(2.03 mm)
maximum
Also, aftermarket valve caps that are heavier than the
stock cap may have clearance at slow speeds; but, at
high speed the valve/cap will be moved outward by
centrifugal force. This outward movement could
cause the valve/cap to strike the adjacent components, damage the valve and cause rapid tire deflation. Rapid tire deflation could cause loss of control
and personal injury.
1.
Damaged or leaking valve stems must be replaced.
Place rubber grommet on valve stem with shoulder in
recess of the valve stem head.
2.
Install and tighten nut to 42-44 in-lbs (4.7-5.0 Nm).
3.
Thoroughly lubricate rim flanges and both beads of tire
with tire lubricant.
4.
See Figure 2-15. Starting at the valve stem, start first
bead into the rim well using a bead breaker machine. If
no machine is available, work bead on as far as possible
by hand. Use a tire tool to pry the remaining bead over
rim flange.
5.
Start 180° from valve stem hole and place second bead
on rim. Work bead onto rim with tire tools, working
toward valve in both directions.
Gauge
Figure 2-16. Checking Tire Lateral Runout
b0088x2x
Tire radial
runout 0.060
(1.52 mm)
maximum
1WARNING
Do not inflate over 40 psi (2.8 bars) to seat the beads.
Inflating the tire beyond 40 psi (2.8 bars) to seat the
beads can cause the tire rim assembly to burst with force
sufficient to cause personal injury. If the beads fail to
seat to 40 psi (2.8 bars), deflate and relubricate the bead
and rim and reinflate to seat the beads, but do not exceed
40 psi (2.8 bars).
6.
Gauge
Apply air to stem to seat beads on rim. It may be necessary to use a TIRE BEAD EXPANDER (Part No. HD28700) on the tire until beads seal on rim.
Figure 2-17. Checking Tire Radial Runout
Checking Tire Lateral Runout
1.
See Figure 2-16. Turn wheel on axle and measure
amount of displacement from a fixed point to tire sidewall.
2.
Checking Tire Radial Runout
1.
See Figure 2-17. Turn wheel on axle and measure tread
radial runout.
Tire tread lateral runout should be no more than 0.080 in.
(2.03 mm). If runout is more than 0.080 in. (2.03 mm),
remove tire from rim.
2.
Tire tread radial runout should not be greater than 0.060
in. (1.52 mm). If runout exceeds specification, remove
tire from rim.
3.
Check rim bead side runout. See CHECKING CAST RIM
RUNOUT on page 2-14. Replace rims not meeting specifications.
3.
Check rim bead runout. See CHECKING CAST RIM
RUNOUT on page 2-14. Replace rims not meeting specifications.
4.
Install tire and check again for tire tread lateral runout.
4.
Install tire and check tire tread radial runout again.
2-16
ADJUSTMENT
Wheel Balancing
Wheel balancing is recommended to improve handling and
reduce vibration, especially at high road speeds.
In most cases, static balancing using WHEEL TRUING AND
BALANCING STAND (Part No. HD-99500-80) will produce
satisfactory results. However, dynamic balancing, utilizing a
wheel spinner, can be used to produce finer tolerances for
best high-speed handling characteristics. Follow the instructions supplied with the balance machine you are using.
The maximum weight permissible to accomplish balance is
1 oz. (28 g) (total weight applied to the rim). Wheels should
be balanced to within 1/4 oz. (7 g) at 60 MPH (97 KM/H).
These weights are applied to the flat surface of the wheel rim
according to the following procedures.
1.
Make sure that area of application is completely clean,
dry, and free of oil and grease.
2.
Remove paper backing from weight. For additional adhesive strength, apply three drops of LOCTITE SUPERBONDER 420 to adhesive side of weight. Place weight
on flat surface of wheel rim. Press weight firmly in place
and hold for ten seconds.
3.
Allow eight hours for adhesive to cure completely before
using wheel.
WEIGHTS FOR CAST WHEELS
Buell specifies WHEEL WEIGHTS (Part No. 43692-94Y)
which have special self-adhesive backings.
2-17
BRAKES
1WARNING
GENERAL
●
Clean brake system components using denatured
alcohol. Do not use mineral-base cleaning solvents,
such as gasoline or paint thinner. Use of mineralbase solvents causes deterioration of rubber parts
that continues after assembly. This could result in
improper and unsafe brake operation which may
cause personal injury.
●
Always test motorcycle brakes at low speed after
servicing or bleeding system. To prevent personal
injury, Buell recommends that all brake repairs be
performed by a Buell dealer or other qualified
mechanic.
●
Exercise caution when handling brake fluid. Brake
fluid can cause irritation of eyes and skin and may be
harmful or fatal if swallowed. If swallowed, administer two tablespoons of salt in a glass of warm water
to induce vomiting. Call a doctor immediately. In
case of contact with skin or eyes, flush with plenty of
water. Get medical attention for eyes. KEEP BRAKE
FLUID OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN.
The front and rear brakes are fully hydraulic disc brake systems that require little maintenance. The front brake master
cylinder is an integral part of the brake hand lever assembly.
The rear brake master cylinder is located on the right side of
the motorcycle near the brake pedal.
Check the master cylinder reservoirs for proper fluid levels
every 5000 miles (8000 km). See BRAKES in Section 1.
Check brake pads and rotors for wear every 2500 miles (4000
km). Replace brake pads if friction material is worn to 1/16 in.
(1.6 mm) or less. Replace brake rotors not meeting minimum
rotor thickness. See BRAKES in Section 1.
If determining probable causes of poor brake operation, see
Table 2-5.
Table 2-5. Brake Troubleshooting
CONDITION
CHECK FOR
REMEDY
Excessive lever/pedal travel or
spongy feel.
Air in system.
Master cylinder low on fluid.
Bleed brake(s).
Fill master cylinder with approved
brake fluid.
Chattering sound when brake is
applied.
Worn pads.
Loose mounting bolts.
Warped rotor.
Replace brake pads.
Tighten bolts.
Replace rotor.
Ineffective brake –
lever/pedal travels to limit.
Low fluid level.
Fill master cylinder with approved
brake fluid, and bleed system.
Rebuild cylinder.
Piston cup not functioning.
Ineffective brake –
lever/pedal travel normal.
Brake pads drag on rotor –
will not retract.
2-18
Distorted or glazed rotor.
Distorted, glazed or contaminated
brake pads.
Replace rotor.
Cup in master cylinder not uncovering
relief port.
Rear brake pedal linkage out of
adjustment.
Inspect master cylinder.
Replace pads.
Adjust linkage.
FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
REMOVAL
1
NOTE
The front master cylinder contains no user serviceable parts.
Do not remove the master cylinder unless problems are being
experienced. Replace the entire assembly when necessary.
1.
Remove mirror mounting hardware (metric, left hand
threads).
2.
Open bleeder nipple cap on front caliper. Install end of a
length of plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valve, while
placing free end in a suitable container. Open bleeder
valve about 1/2-turn. Pump brake hand lever to drain
brake fluid.
3.
See Figure 2-18. Remove banjo bolt (6) (metric) and two
gaskets (4) to disconnect brake line from master cylinder.
Discard gaskets.
4.
Remove screw (10), lockwasher (9) and washer (8) to
detach brake lamp switch (7).
7
10
2.
3.
Remove two screws (1) (metric) and clamp to free master cylinder assembly from handlebar.
4.
5.
INSTALLATION
2.
3.
Attach brake lamp switch (7) with screw (10), lockwasher
(9) and washer (8).
4.
Remove both master cylinder cover screws (3) and cover.
5.
With the master cylinder in a level position, add D.O.T. 5
SILICONE HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID. Bring fluid level
to within 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) of molded boss inside front master cylinder reservoir.
Clamp screws (2)
(metric)
Clamp
Master cylinder
cover screws (2)
Gaskets (2)
Brake line
6.
7.
Banjo bolt (metric)
Front brake lamp
switch
8. Washer
9. Lockwasher
10. Screw
Figure 2-18. Front Master Cylinder Banjo Bolt
See Figure 2-18. Fasten master cylinder to handlebar by
installing clamp (2) and screws (1) (metric). Tighten
screws to 80-90 in-lbs (9.0-10.2 Nm).
Place new gaskets on each side of the hydraulic brake
line. Install banjo bolt through gaskets and brake line fitting into master cylinder. Tighten banjo bolt (6) (metric) to
17-20 ft-lbs (23.0-27.1 Nm).
9
8
5.
To avoid leakage, verify that gaskets, banjo bolt, hydraulic brake line and master cylinder bore are completely
clean.
5
6
1.
1CAUTION
2
4
NOTE
The individual parts of the brake lamp switch are not serviceable. Replace switch upon failure.
1.
3
b0203a2x
1WARNING
A plugged or covered relief port can cause brake drag or
lockup, which may result in loss of vehicle control and
possible personal injury.
6.
Verify proper operation of the master cylinder relief port.
Actuate the brake lever with the reservoir cover removed.
A slight spurt of fluid will break the surface if all internal
components are working properly.
7.
Install master cylinder cover screws (3) and cover.
Tighten cover screws to 9-13 in-lbs (1.0-1.5 Nm).
8.
Bleed brake system. See BRAKES in Section 1.
9.
Install mirror parallel to handlebars. Mirror mount has
metric, left hand threads.
10. Test brake lamp operation with the brake hand lever
applied and the ignition/headlamp switch turned to IGN.
2-19
FRONT BRAKE CALIPER
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
5712
NOTE
Step 1 (draining fluid) is not required for caliper removal.
Drain brake fluid only when disassembling caliper.
1.
See Figure 2-19. Remove banjo bolt (4) and gaskets to
disconnect brake line from caliper. Drain brake fluid into a
clean, suitable container. Discard gaskets.
2.
Remove cotter and support pins (1).
3.
Remove center caliper bolt (2) and spacer.
4.
Remove brake pads from front brake caliper. Pads must
be removed in order to remove caliper from rotor.
3
5
4
2
1
5.
Remove both caliper mounting bolts (3).
6.
Free caliper from front brake rotor.
7.
Move caliper assembly to bench area.
1.
8.
See Figure 2-20. Remove screws (13, 14) to separate
caliper halves (7, 12). Remove O-rings (11) and discard.
2.
Cotter and
support pins
Center caliper bolt
3.
4.
5.
Caliper mounting bolts
Banjo bolt
Wire guide
Figure 2-19. Front Brake Caliper Mounts
Front caliper rebuild kit,
Part No. 44148-94Y
b0016a2x
14
15
16
13
5
6
2
11
10
8
3
12
9
7
1
4
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Support pins (2)
Cotter pins (2)
Center caliper bolt
Caliper mounting bolts (2)
Banjo bolt
Gaskets (2)
Right caliper half
Bleeder valve
Figure 2-20. Front Brake Caliper
2-20
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
O-ring (3 sizes, 2 each)
Pistons (3 sizes, 2 each)
O-ring (2)
Left caliper half
Screw
Screw (3)
Brake pads (2)
Spacer
1WARNING
When using air pressure to remove pistons from caliper,
pistons may be ejected with considerable force. Wear
safety glasses, heavy gloves and hold caliper with heavy
towel to prevent personal injury.
5737
1CAUTION
Exercise care to avoid dropping piston on hard surface.
Any damage requires piston replacement.
9.
See Figure 2-21. Use BRAKE CALIPER PISTON
REMOVER (Part No. B-42079) to remove caliper pistons.
10. See Figure 2-20. Pry O-rings (9) out of their respective
grooves on each side of caliper. Discard O-rings.
CLEANING, INSPECTION AND
REPAIR
1WARNING
Clean brake system components using denatured alcohol. Do not use mineral-base cleaning solvents, such as
gasoline or paint thinner. Use of mineral-base solvents
causes deterioration of rubber parts that continues after
assembly. This could result in improper and unsafe brake
operation which may cause personal injury.
4.
Install center caliper bolt (3) and spacer (16). Tighten
center caliper bolt to 11-13 ft-lbs (14.9-17.6 Nm).
5.
Install two support pins (1) and new cotter pins (2).
1.
Thoroughly clean brake system components using denatured alcohol. Blow dry using compressed air. Carefully
inspect all components. Replace any parts that appear
damaged or worn. Do not hone caliper piston bore.
6.
Connect brake line to caliper using new gaskets. Tighten
banjo bolt (5) to 16-20 ft-lbs (21.7-27.1 Nm).
7.
2.
Inspect brake rotor. Replace if warped or badly scored.
Measure rotor thickness for excessive wear. Replace
rotors less than 0.17 in. (4.3 mm) thick.
With the master cylinder in a level position, verify that the
brake fluid level is 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) from molded boss
inside reservoir. Add D.O.T. 5 SILICONE HYDRAULIC
BRAKE FLUID if necessary.
1WARNING
Always replace brake pads in complete sets for correct
and safe brake operation. Never replace just one brake
pad. Failure to install brake pads as a set may cause personal injury.
3.
Inspect brake pads for damage or wear. Replace both
pads as a set if the friction material of either pad is worn
to 1/16 in. (1.6 mm) or less.
Figure 2-21. Removing Brake Caliper Pistons Using
Brake Caliper Piston Remover (Part No. B-42079)
1WARNING
A plugged or covered relief port can cause brake drag or
lockup, which may result in loss of vehicle control and
possible personal injury.
8.
Verify proper operation of the master cylinder relief port.
Actuate the brake lever with the reservoir cover removed.
A slight spurt of fluid will break the surface if all internal
components are working properly.
9.
Install cover gasket, cover and screws. Tighten screws to
9-13 in-lbs (1.0-1.5 Nm).
ASSEMBLY
1.
See Figure 2-20. Install new O-rings (11) in groove of
each caliper half (7, 12). Install new O-rings (9) in groove
of piston bores.
2.
Install pistons (10) in each caliper piston bore.
3.
Tighten caliper halves together with four screws (13, 14).
Smallest screw (13) is placed on top next to bleeder
valve (8). Tighten screws to 26-28 ft-lbs (35.2-38.0 Nm).
INSTALLATION
1.
Fit caliper on front brake rotor without brake pads.
2.
See Figure 2-20. Tighten both caliper mounting bolts (4)
to 30-33 ft-lbs (40.7-44.7 Nm).
3.
Insert brake pads (15) from top.
10. Depress front brake lever several times to set brake pads
to proper operating position within caliper. Bleed brake
system. See BRAKES in Section 1.
11. Test brake lamp operation with the brake hand lever
applied and the ignition/headlamp switch turned to IGN.
NOTE
To allow new brake pads to “wear in” properly with the brake
rotor, avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km).
2-21
FRONT BRAKE LINE
REMOVAL
1.
b0203x2x
Top right sidemaster cylinder
Open bleeder nipple cap on front brake caliper. Install
end of a length of plastic tubing over caliper bleeder
valve, while placing free end in a suitable container.
Open bleeder valve about 1/2-turn. Pump brake hand
lever to drain brake fluid.
2.
See Figure 2-22. Remove screw (4) to detach brake line
clamp (5) from lower triple clamp (right side).
3.
Slide brake line out of wire guide (6) on front fender.
4.
Remove master cylinder banjo bolt (1) (metric) and two
gaskets (2) to detach brake line from master cylinder
body. Discard gaskets.
5.
Remove caliper banjo bolt (7) and two gaskets (8) to
detach brake line from front brake caliper. Discard gaskets.
6.
Carefully inspect the brake line for dents, cuts or other
defects. Replace the brake line if any damage is noted.
3
2
INSTALLATION
1.
2.
4
See Figure 2-22. Position new master cylinder gaskets
(2) on each side of the banjo fitting. Insert banjo bolt (1)
(metric) through gaskets and banjo fitting. Loosely install
bolt into master cylinder.
5
From the master cylinder, the brake line runs downward
in front of the right handlebar, where it turns inboard at
the upper triple clamp. Loosely install clamp (5), and
screw (4) to attach front brake line to right side of lower
triple clamp.
3.
Place brake line inside wire guide (6) on front fender.
4.
Position new gaskets (8) on each side of banjo fitting at
free end of brake line. Insert caliper banjo bolt (7)
through gaskets. Loosely install bolt into caliper.
5.
Tighten clamp screw (4) on lower triple clamp to 30-35
in-lbs (3.4-4.0 Nm).
6.
Tighten master cylinder banjo bolt (1) (metric) to 17-20 ftlbs (23.0-27.1 Nm).
7.
Tighten brake caliper banjo bolt (7) to 16-20 ft-lbs (21.727.1 Nm).
8.
Install bleeder valve if removed. Refill master cylinder
and bleed brakes. See BRAKES in Section 1.
9.
Test operation of brake lever.
10. Tighten front bleeder valve to 4-6 ft-lbs (5.4-8.1 Nm).
Install bleeder cap.
11. Test brake lamp operation with the brake hand lever
applied and ignition/headlamp switch turned to IGN.
2-22
1
7
6
Lower right sidebrake caliper
1.
2.
3.
Master cylinder
banjo bolt (metric)
Master cylinder
gasket (2)
Brake line
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
8
Screw
Clamp
Wire guide
Caliper banjo bolt
Caliper gasket (2)
Figure 2-22. Front Brake Line
REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
ADJUSTMENT
5569
Brake Pedal
1.
See Figure 2-23. Brake pedal must have 1/8 in. (3.2 mm)
pushrod freeplay. If adjustment is necessary, hold pushrod (1) and loosen locknut (2) (metric).
2.
Rotate pushrod to increase or decrease freeplay.
3.
Tighten locknut.
1
2
NOTE
If you alter pedal height, always check pushrod freeplay.
6
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
NOTE
Do not disassemble the master cylinder unless problems are
experienced. Discard all seals during the disassembly procedure. Install a complete rebuild kit upon assembly.
1.
Open bleeder nipple cap on rear caliper. Install end of a
length of plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valve, while
placing free end in a suitable container. Open bleeder
valve (metric) about 1/2-turn. Pump brake pedal to drain
brake fluid.
5
3
4
1.
2.
3.
4.
Pushrod
Locknut (metric)
Screw and locknut
Male end of pushrod
5.
6.
Pedal height
adjustment screw
Brake pedal
Figure 2-23. Brake Pedal
5721
2.
See Figure 2-23. Remove screw and locknut (3) to
detach male end of push rod (4) from brake pedal.
Remove push rod.
1
2
1CAUTION
Damaged banjo seating surfaces will leak when reassembled. Prevent damage to seating surfaces by carefully
removing brake line components.
3.
See Figure 2-24. Remove banjo bolt (metric) (3) and two
gaskets (4) from rear master cylinder. Discard gaskets.
4.
Remove two screws and locknuts (5) holding the rear
brake master cylinder to frame.
5.
Remove reservoir hose clamp from rear master cylinder.
6.
Remove screw on reservoir assembly.
3
4
5
CLEANING, INSPECTION AND
REPAIR
6
1WARNING
Clean brake system components using denatured alcohol. Do not use mineral-base cleaning solvents, such as
gasoline or paint thinner. Use of mineral-base solvents
causes deterioration of rubber parts that continues after
assembly. This could result in improper and unsafe brake
operation which may cause personal injury.
1.
2.
Thoroughly clean master cylinder and all brake system
components. Examine walls of master cylinder reservoir
for scratches and grooves. Replace if damaged. Verify
that vent holes on master cylinder are completely open
and free of dirt or debris. Stand master cylinder on
wooden block or towel to protect seating surfaces.
1.
2.
3.
Master cylinder
reservoir
Screw
Banjo bolt (metric)
4.
5.
6.
Gaskets (2)
Screws and locknuts
Hose clamp
Figure 2-24. Rear Master Cylinder
Inspect cover gasket on front of master cylinder for cuts,
tears or general deterioration. Replace as necessary.
2-23
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
1.
2.
See Figure 2-24. Mount reservoir assembly on frame
with screw. Tighten screw to 12-15 in-lbs (1.4-1.7 Nm).
Clamp reservoir hose to rear master cylinder with a new
clamp and HOSE CLAMP PLIERS (Part No. HD-41137).
5559
Upper mark
Lower mark
Attach rear master cylinder to frame with two screws and
locknuts. Tighten to 8-10 ft-lbs (10.8-13.6 Nm).
1CAUTION
To avoid leakage after assembly, verify that gaskets,
banjo bolt, rear brake line and bore of master cylinder are
completely clean.
3.
Position new gaskets on each side of rear brake line at
master cylinder. Insert banjo bolt (metric) through gaskets and brake line. Thread banjo bolt (metric) into rear
brake master cylinder and tighten to 10-12 ft-lbs (13.616.2 Nm).
4.
See Figure 2-23. Place push rod into rear master cylinder.
Install male rod end behind brake pedal with screw and
locknut. Tighten screw to 10-12 ft-lbs (13.6-16.2 Nm).
5.
Adjust brake pedal freeplay.
6.
See Figure 2-25. With the master cylinder in a level position, check that the brake fluid level is between the upper
and lower marks on reservoir. Add D.O.T. 5 SILICONE
HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID if necessary. Be sure cap is
securely screwed on.
1WARNING
A plugged or covered relief port can cause brake drag or
lockup, which may result in loss of vehicle control and
possible personal injury.
7.
Bleed brake system. See BRAKES in Section 1.
8.
Test brake lamp operation with the rear brake pedal
applied and the ignition/headlamp switch turned to IGN.
2-24
Figure 2-25. Proper Rear Brake Fluid Level
REAR BRAKE CALIPER
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
NOTE
Do not remove piston from caliper unless there are signs of
hydraulic fluid leakage or piston is not operating properly. If
piston must be removed, proceed to Step 7.
NOTE
Step 1 (draining fluid) is not required for caliper removal.
Drain brake fluid only when disassembling caliper.
1.
See Figure 2-26. Open bleeder nipple cap on rear caliper. Install end of a length of plastic tubing over caliper
bleeder valve (2), while placing free end in a suitable
container. Open bleeder valve (metric) about 1/2-turn.
Pump brake pedal to drain brake fluid.
2.
Remove both caliper mounting screws (11) (metric) and
washers (10) to free caliper from caliper mount.
3.
Pump brake pedal until piston reaches its full travel.
Remove banjo bolt (1) (metric) and two gaskets (3) to
disconnect brake line from caliper. Discard gaskets.
4.
Remove slave pad from rear pad bracket (9).
5.
Remove rear pad bracket and dust boots (12, 13) from
rear caliper assembly (4).
6.
Remove master brake pad (7) from piston (6).
1WARNING
When using air pressure to remove piston from caliper,
piston may be ejected with considerable force. Wear
safety glasses, heavy gloves and hold caliper with heavy
towel to prevent personal injury.
1CAUTION
Exercise care to avoid dropping piston on hard surface.
Any damage requires piston replacement.
7.
Hold caliper with piston facing downward. Place a clean
shop towel under piston. Apply low air pressure to
hydraulic brake line inlet hole until piston is forced out
caliper bore. If piston is tight in bore, tap lightly around
caliper while applying air pressure.
8.
Remove and discard O-ring (5) from groove within piston
bore.
Rear caliper rebuild kit,
Part No. 44149-94Y
b0017a2x
12
13
11
10
1
2
9
8
7
6
5
3
4
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Banjo bolt (metric)
Bleeder valve (metric)
Gaskets (2)
Rear caliper assembly
O-ring
Piston
Master brake pad
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Slave brake pad
Rear pad bracket
Washer (2)
Screw (2) (metric)
Large dust boot
Small dust boot
Figure 2-26. Rear Brake Pads and Caliper
2-25
CLEANING, INSPECTION AND
REPAIR
1WARNING
Clean brake system components using denatured alcohol. Do not use mineral-base cleaning solvents, such as
gasoline or paint thinner. Use of mineral-base solvents
causes deterioration of rubber parts that continues after
assembly. This could result in improper and unsafe brake
operation which may cause personal injury.
1.
2.
Clean brake system components using denatured alcohol. Blow dry using compressed air. Carefully inspect all
components. Replace any parts that appear damaged or
worn. Replace rubber dust boots (12, 13) if damaged or
worn. Do not hone caliper piston bore.
INSTALLATION
1.
With friction material facing brake rotor, align rear caliper
assembly on mounting bracket.
2.
See Figure 2-26. Install washers and screws (metric) to
fasten rear caliper assembly to mounting bracket.
Tighten screws to 18-22 ft-lbs (24.4-29.8 Nm).
3.
Install bleeder valve (metric) if removed. Tighten valve to
6-9 ft-lbs (8.1-12.2 Nm). Install bleeder cap.
4.
Position new gaskets on each side of banjo fitting. Insert
banjo bolt (metric) through gaskets and banjo fitting into
caliper. Tighten banjo bolt (metric) to 9.5-12.5 ft-lbs
(12.9-17.0 Nm).
5.
With the master cylinder in a level position, check that the
brake fluid level is between the upper and lower marks
on reservoir. See Figure 2-25. Add D.O.T. 5 SILICONE
HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID if necessary. Be sure cap is
securely screwed on.
Inspect brake rotor. Replace rotor if warped or badly
scored. Measure rotor thickness for excessive wear.
Replace rotors less than 0.19 in. (4.8 mm) thick.
1WARNING
Always replace brake pads in complete sets for correct
and safe brake operation. Never replace just one brake
pad. Failure to install brake pads as a set may cause personal injury.
3.
Inspect brake pads for damage or excessive wear.
Replace both pads as a set if friction material of either
pad is worn to 1/16 in. (1.6 mm) or less.
1WARNING
A plugged or covered relief port can cause brake drag or
lockup, which may result in loss of vehicle control and
possible personal injury.
ASSEMBLY
1.
See Figure 2-26. Install new O-ring (5) within groove in
piston bore of rear caliper assembly (4).
2.
Apply light coat of D.O.T. 5 SILICONE HYDRAULIC
BRAKE FLUID to piston OD, including chamfer. Apply a
light coat to caliper piston bore (6) and ID of installed piston O-ring (5). Install piston into caliper piston bore. Use
a “C” clamp to press in piston, if necessary.
6.
Depress rear brake pedal several times to set brake pads
to proper operating position within caliper. Bleed brake
system. See BRAKES in Section 1.
7.
Verify proper reservoir fluid level as described in Step 5.
8.
Test brake lamp operation with the rear brake pedal
applied and the ignition/headlamp switch turned to IGN.
NOTE
To ensure proper brake pad-to-brake rotor clearance when
the caliper is installed, piston must be pressed all the way into
the bore whenever new brake pads are used.
3.
Install master brake pad (7) on piston (6).
4.
Install dust boots (12, 13) and rear pad bracket (9) into
rear caliper assembly.
5.
Install slave brake pad (8).
2-26
NOTE
To allow new brake pads to “wear in” properly with the brake
rotor, avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km).
REAR BRAKE LINE AND SWITCH
REMOVAL
1.
Open bleeder nipple cap on rear caliper. Install end of a
length of plastic tubing over caliper bleeder valve, while
placing free end in a suitable container. Open bleeder
valve (metric) about 1/2-turn. Pump rear brake pedal to
drain brake fluid.
2.
See Figure 2-27. Remove banjo bolt (metric) and two
gaskets to detach brake line from rear brake caliper. Discard gaskets.
3.
See Figure 2-28. Remove banjo bolt (metric) and two
gaskets to detach brake line from rear master cylinder.
Discard gaskets.
4.
See Figure 2-29. Remove screw and clamp to detach
brake line clamp from frame.
5.
Remove brake line from clamp under oil tank.
6.
Pull terminal sockets from spade connections at top of
brake lamp switch. Unthread switch from tee nut.
5560
Bleeder valve
(metric)
Banjo bolt
(metric)
Figure 2-27. Rear Brake Caliper Banjo Bolt
5521
Banjo bolt
(metric)
INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 2-29. Coat brake lamp switch threads with
LOCTITE PIPE SEALANT WITH TEFLON. Thread brake
lamp switch to tee nut of brake line. Tighten switch
assembly to 7-8 ft-lbs (9.5-10.8 Nm). Install terminal
sockets on switch spade connections.
2.
From left side of vehicle, feed new brake line from rear
brake caliper mount forward to frame mount. Thread
brake line right to rear master cylinder.
3.
Install screw and clamp to secure rear brake line to frame.
Tighten clamp screw to 10-12 ft-lbs (13.6-16.2 Nm).
4.
Attach brake line to clamp under oil tank.
5.
See Figure 2-28. Position new gaskets on each side of
master cylinder banjo fitting. Insert banjo bolt (metric)
through gaskets and banjo fitting. Thread bolt into master
cylinder and tighten to 10-12 ft-lbs (13.6-16.2 Nm).
6.
See Figure 2-27. Position new gaskets on each side of
caliper banjo fitting. Insert banjo bolt (metric) through
gaskets and banjo fitting into caliper. Tighten banjo bolt
to 9.5-12.5 ft-lbs (12.9-17.0 Nm). Install bleeder valve if
removed. Refill master cylinder and bleed brakes. See
BRAKES in Section 1.
7.
Tighten bleeder valve (metric) to 6-9 ft-lbs (8.1-12.2 Nm).
Install bleeder cap.
8.
Test brake lamp operation with the rear brake pedal
applied and the ignition/headlamp switch turned to IGN.
Figure 2-28. Rear Master Cylinder Banjo Bolt
5559
Brake lamp
switch
Clamp
Figure 2-29. Brake Line and Switch
2-27
2
FRONT FORK
GENERAL
5761
The front fork consists of two telescoping outer tube/inner
slider assemblies. Each tube/slider assembly has an internal
compression spring which supports the forward weight of the
vehicle/rider. The compression spring extends and retracts to
cushion the ride over rough or irregular road surfaces. An oilfilled damping mechanism controls the telescoping action of
each tube/slider assembly.
See FRONT FORK in Section 1 for fork oil change procedure.
REMOVAL
1.
Raise front wheel off floor using FRONT WHEEL SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41395) and S1 LIFT
ADAPTER (Part No. B-41686).
2.
Remove front brake caliper. See FRONT BRAKE CALIPER, REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY on page 2-20.
3.
Remove front wheel. See FRONT WHEEL, REMOVAL
on page 2-8.
4.
Remove front fender. See FENDERS, REMOVAL/
INSTALLATION on page 2-54.
5.
Loosen left and right headlamp brackets. See HEADLAMP, REMOVAL in Section 7.
6.
Loosen all five pinch screws on both the upper and lower
triple clamps.
7.
Remove front forks.
Front Fork Holding Tool,
(Part No. B-41177)
Figure 2-30. Front Fork Holding Tool
b0206x2x
R
EB
C
OM
DISASSEMBLY
1.
See Figure 2-30. Clamp the fork vertically in a vise using
FRONT FORK HOLDING TOOL (Part No. B-41177).
2.
See Figure 2-31. Turn adjuster to full slow position (completely clockwise).
3.
See Figure 2-32. Remove fork cap (2) (metric), O-ring (3)
and washer (4).
4.
Reduce spring pressure and remove both retaining
clips (5).
5.
Remove preload shim(s) (6) and steel washer (7).
6.
Remove fork spring (8).
7.
Invert fork and drain fork oil.
8.
Clamp fork outer tube (9) horizontally using FRONT
FORK HOLDING TOOL (Part No. B-41177). Loosen fork
seal retaining ring (14) and spacer ring (13).
9.
Using ROBINAIR HEAT GUN (Part No. HD-25070) heat
bottom of outer tube. When the tube has sufficiently
expanded, drive inner tube (18) from outer tube with a
slide hammer action. Inner tube will retain fork oil seal
(12) and support ring (11) in place.
10. Spread red retaining cap (15) and remove. Remove
upper DU bushing (16) and washer (17).
11. Remove retaining ring (14) and spacer ring (13).
2-28
Left fork leg adjusterRebound damping
Right fork leg adjusterCompression damping
FORK ADJUSTMENTS
Increase rebound/compression (slower):
Turn appropriate adjuster clockwise.
Decrease rebound/compression (faster):
Turn appropriate adjuster counterclockwise.
Figure 2-31. Fork Adjusters
12. Remove lower DU bushing (10), support ring (11) and
fork oil seal (12). Discard fork oil seal and support ring.
13. Invert fork. Hold damper assembly and remove bolt (20)
(metric) and copper washer (19). Discard copper washer.
14. Remove damper assembly (22).
NOTE
The damper assembly (22) contains no user serviceable
parts.
b0033a2x
2
●
3
●
Left leg controls rebound damping. Right leg
controls compression damping.
●
Number of preload shims (6) may vary
between fork assemblies.
4
5
6
NOTE
Quantities are listed per individual fork leg.
7
8
1
15
16
17
9
22
18
10
11
12
19
20
13
21
14
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Front fork assembly
Fork cap
O-ring
Washer
Retaining clip (2)
Preload shim
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Steel washer
Spring
Outer tube
DU bushing (lower)
Support ring
Fork oil seal
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
Spacer ring
Retaining ring
Retaining cap (red)
DU bushing (upper)
Washer
Inner tube
19.
20.
21.
22.
Copper washer
Bolt (metric)
Bolt (2) (metric)
Damper assembly
Figure 2-32. Front Forks
2-29
CLEANING, INSPECTION AND
REPAIR
1.
Thoroughly clean and inspect all parts. Replace any
parts that are bent, broken or damaged.
2.
Inspect the O-rings for damage, wear or general deterioration; replace as necessary. Replace all other removed
seals.
3.
See Figure 2-32. Check inner tube (18). Tube surface
should be shiny, smooth and free of scoring or abrasions.
5760
Slide fork seal
over installer
ASSEMBLY
1.
Install new fork seal retaining ring (14) and spacer ring
(13) on inner tube.
2.
See Figure 2-33. Using FRONT FORK BUSHING/SEAL
INSTALLER (Part No. B-41176), install new fork oil seal
on inner tube. External spring on fork oil seal faces bottom of fork leg.
3.
See Figure 2-32. Install new support ring (11).
4.
Install upper DU bushing (16) with large end towards the
bottom of the fork leg. Install washer (17) and lower DU
bushing (10). Install red retaining cap (15).
NOTE
Inspect both DU bushings upon assembly. Bushings are
bronze with a Teflon layer. A DU bushing should be replaced
when 20-30% of the Teflon layer has been worn through. In
this circumstance, a visual inspection will show 20-30% of the
bronze base. Also replace bushings if bushing interiors show
any small grooves. Such grooves will damage the outside surface of the inner tubes.
5.
Clamp outer tube (9) upside down using FRONT FORK
HOLDING TOOL (Part No. B-41177).
6.
See Figure 2-34. Place inner tube assembly inside outer
tube. Using bushing side of FRONT FORK BUSHING/
SEAL INSTALLER (Part No. B-41176), drive in DU bushings until fully seated.
7.
Reverse FRONT FORK BUSHING/SEAL INSTALLER.
(Part No. B-41176). Seat fork oil seal with seal side of
tool. Drop seal retaining ring in place. Fully seat retaining
ring.
8.
See Figure 2-32. Clamp fork in a horizontal position.
Install damper assembly (22) using bolt (20) (metric) and
a new copper washer (19). Tighten bolt to 18-23 ft-lbs
(24.4-31.2 Nm).
9.
Clamp fork upright in the fully compressed stage.
10. Fill fork with oil. See FRONT FORK in Section 1.
11. Install fork spring (8).
12. Pull damper assembly above fork spring. Place steel
washer (7) and preload shim(s) (6) on top of spring.
13. Installing the retaining clips (5) requires two people.
Have one person compress the spring, steel washer and
preload shim(s). At the same time, have the second person install both retaining clips.
14. Install washer (4), new O-ring (3) and fork cap (2) (metric).
2-30
Figure 2-33. Installing New Fork Seal Using Front Fork
Bushing/Seal Installer (Part No. B-41176)
5759
Use tool to fully
seat DU bushings
Figure 2-34. Installing Bushings and Seals Using Front
Fork Bushing/Seal Installer (Part No. B-41176)
INSTALLATION
1.
5517
Insert fork assembly through front fork triple clamps and
headlamp brackets.
Flush
NOTE
When installing the front forks, use a screwdriver to pry apart
the triple clamps.
2.
See Figure 2-35. Position fork tubes so that top of each
fork cap fits flush with the top surface of upper triple
clamp.
3.
Spread LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE on the last three threads
of all five front fork triple clamp pinch screws. Tighten
screws to 18-20 ft-lbs (24.4-27.1 Nm).
4.
Position headlamp bracket 2.375 in. (60.3 mm) above
lower triple clamp. Tighten headlamp bracket screws.
5.
Install front fender. See FENDERS, REMOVAL/INSTALLATION on page 2-54.
6.
Install front wheel. See FRONT WHEEL, INSTALLATION
on page 2-10.
7.
Install front brake caliper. See FRONT BRAKE CALIPER, INSTALLATION on page 2-21.
8.
Set rebound and compression adjusters to the desired
settings.
2.375 in. (60.3 mm)
Figure 2-35. Aligning Front Forks
2-31
FORK STEM AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
1.
Remove fork assemblies. See FRONT FORK, REMOVAL
on page 2-28.
2.
See Figure 2-36. Remove fork stem bolt (1) and upper
triple clamp (2).
3.
Remove upper dust shield (3) and upper roller
bearing (4).
4.
Lower the lower triple clamp (6). The lower bearing cone
is a press fit on fork stem. Chisel through outer bearing
cage to allow rollers to fall free. Apply heat to remove the
remaining portion of bearing cone. Continuously move
flame around its entire circumference until bearing falls
free. Remove lower dust shield (3).
5.
b0031a2x
1
2
3
4
5
5
4
3
If replacement of bearing cups (5) is necessary, drive
cups from steering head using STEERING HEAD BEARING RACE REMOVER (Part No. HD-39301A) and UNIVERSAL DRIVER HANDLE (Part No HD-33416).
9
CLEANING, INSPECTION AND
REPAIR
8
6
See FRONT FORK in Section 1 for adjustment procedures.
1.
See Figure 2-36. Clean the dust shields (3), bearing
cups (5), fork stem and lower triple clamp (6) and frame
with solvent.
2.
Carefully inspect bearing races and assemblies for pitting, scoring, wear and other damage. Replace damaged
bearing as a set.
3.
Check the fork stem and lower triple clamp (6) for damage. Replace damaged fork stem.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Fork stem bolt
Upper triple clamp
Dust shield (2)
Roller bearing (2)
Bearing cup (2)
7
6.
7.
8.
9.
Lower triple clamp
Screw (5)
Steering head lock
Steering lock key
Figure 2-36. Bearing Cup Removal
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 2-36. If removed, install new bearing cups (5)
into frame steering head using STEERING HEAD BEARING RACE INSTALLER (Part No. HD-39302).
5.
Install the upper triple clamp (2) and loosely install fork
stem bolt (11).
2.
Liberally coat the bearing cones (4) with grease using
WHEEL BEARING PACKER TOOL (Part No. HD-33067).
Work the grease into the rollers.
6.
Install fork assemblies. See FRONT FORK, INSTALLATION on page 2-31.
3.
Place lower bearing dust shield (3) over fork stem. Find a
section of pipe having an inside diameter slightly larger
than the outside diameter of the fork stem. Press bearing
cone (4) onto fork stem and bracket (1) using the pipe as
a press on tool.
7.
Tighten the fork stem bolt (1) until the bearings have no
freeplay. Make sure the fork stem turns freely, then
tighten the fork stem clamp screw (rearmost pinch screw
on upper triple clamp).
4.
Insert lower triple clamp (6) through the steering head.
Install the upper bracket bearing (4) and dust shield (3)
onto fork stem.
8.
Check bearing adjustment.
ADJUSTMENT in Section 1.
2-32
See
FRONT
FORK,
SWINGARM
REMOVAL
16. Detach tie bars from frame mounts in the following
sequence. Do not remove tie bars from engine.
NOTE
Mark all hardware as it is removed so that it may be returned
to its original location.
1.
Swingarm removal requires motorcycle to be supported
in several areas. First, secure front wheel and then raise
rear wheel off ground with REAR WHEEL SUPPORT
STAND (Part No. B-41174).
1WARNING
a.
Rear tie bar. Use a swivel socket.
b.
Top tie bar.
c.
Front tie bar and clutch cable clamp.
17. See Figure 2-37. Remove isolator screws (9) and washers on each side.
18. Slowly raise floor hoist until rubber isolators (10) can be
removed. Frame will rise while engine and swingarm
remain secured to lift by crating strap.
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding. Always disconnect the negative cable first. If
the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
19. Loosen one pinch screw (8) on the swingarm mount
block (7).
1CAUTION
21. Loosen the remaining pinch screw. Extract pivot shaft (5)
and second adjuster as an assembly.
20. Remove bearing adjusting bolt (1) on that side with
PIVOT SHAFT BEARING ADJUSTER (Part No. B41175).
Hold battery cable when loosening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
22. Remove swingarm.
2.
Disconnect both battery cables, negative cable first.
DISASSEMBLY
3.
Remove seat, fuel tank and tail section. See TAIL SECTION, REMOVAL on page 2-55.
4.
Drain oil tank and remove filter. Detach feed, vent and
return hoses from oil tank. See ENGINE LUBRICATION
SYSTEM in Section 1.
1CAUTION
Carefully mark all bearing components as they are
removed, so that they may be returned to their original
locations. Do not intermix bearing components.
5.
Support motorcycle frame with a floor hoist such as the
CENTRAL HYDRAULICS FOLDING CRANE (Model T5466).
6.
Remove rear fender. See FENDERS, REMOVAL/
INSTALLATION on page 2-54.
7.
Remove rear brake caliper assembly from swingarm.
See REAR BRAKE CALIPER, REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY on page 2-25.
8.
Remove rear wheel. See REAR WHEEL, REMOVAL on
page 2-11.
9.
Remove rear shock. See REAR SHOCK ABSORBER,
REMOVAL on page 2-36.
10. Remove rider footrests. See FOOTRESTS, REMOVAL
on page 2-52.
1.
See Figure 2-37. Remove and discard swingarm seal (2).
2.
Remove roller bearings (3).
NOTE
Remove roller bearing cups (4) only if replacement is
required. The complete bearing assembly must be replaced
as a unit when replacement is necessary. Do not intermix
bearing components.
3.
CLEANING/INSPECTION
1.
Clean all components in solvent and blow dry. Carefully
inspect all bearing components for wear and/or corrosion. Replace complete bearing assembly if any component is damaged.
2.
Check that swingarm is not bent or twisted. Replace if
damaged.
11. Remove air cleaner assembly. See AIR CLEANER,
REMOVAL in Section 4.
12. Remove carburetor. See CARBURETOR, REMOVAL in
Section 4.
13. Remove muffler and exhaust header. See EXHAUST
SYSTEM, REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY on page 2-50.
14. Support engine under crankcase. Avoid pushing tie bar
assembly upward.
15. Place a crating strap between the engine cylinders and
around the lift. Tighten crating strap until snug.
See Figure 2-38. Carefully press roller bearing cups (4)
from swingarm using STEERING HEAD BEARING
RACE REMOVER (Part No. HD-39301A) and UNIVERSAL DRIVER HANDLE (Part No. HD-33416).
ASSEMBLY
1.
See Figure 2-39. If necessary, draw new roller bearing
cups (4) into swingarm using BEARING INSTALLATION
BOLT (Part No. B-35316-5) and STEERING HEAD
BEARING RACE INSTALLER (Part No. HD-39302).
2-33
b0210x2x
6
5
1
2
3
4
7
9
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
8
Bearing adjusting bolt (2)
Swingarm seal (2)
Roller bearing (2)
Roller bearing cup (2)
Pivot shaft
Swingarm
Swingarm mount block
Pinch screw (2)
Isolator screw (2)
Rubber isolator (2)
Figure 2-37. Swingarm Assembly and Swingarm Mount Block
NOTE
INSTALLATION
Timkin roller bearing assemblies should be replaced as a
unit. Do not intermix components. Mark all components so
they may be correctly installed.
1.
Adjust swingarm preload. Using a scale as shown in Figure 2-40. Preload should measure 3.5-5.5 lbs (1.62.5 kg).
2.
2.
Remove both pinch screws (8). Apply LOCTITE
THREADLOCKER 242 (blue) to pinch screw threads.
1CAUTION
3.
Check that swingarm is centered between mounts.
Torque pinch screws (8) to 27-30 ft-lbs (36.6-40.7 Nm).
Pivot shaft (5) must be installed between inner races (3)
or bearing failure can result.
4.
Install rubber isolators and bolts. See SECONDARY
DRIVE BELT in Section 6.
3.
Install a new swingarm seal (2) flush to the swingarm.
5.
Attach tie bars to the frame in the following order. Torque
to 30-33 ft-lbs (40.7-44.7 Nm)
4.
Apply LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT to pivot shaft
threads.
a.
Front tie bar. Clutch cable clamp holds cable on air
cleaner side of motor.
5.
Install one bearing adjustment bolt (1) into pivot shaft (5).
Bottom out the adjustment bolt.
b.
Top tie bar.
c.
6.
Slide swingarm assembly into position.
Rear tie bar. Tie bar must be horizontal and below
frame tab.
7.
Slide pivot shaft assembly through mount block and
swingarm. Install the opposing bearing adjustment bolt
(1) using PIVOT SHAFT BEARING ADJUSTER (Part No.
B-41175).
6.
Install carburetor. See CARBURETOR, INSTALLATION
in Section 4.
7.
Install muffler and exhaust header. See EXHAUST SYSTEM, ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION on page 2-50.
Tighten one pinch screw (8) into swingarm mount block.
Do not tighten the other pinch screw (8) at this time.
8.
Install air cleaner. See AIR CLEANER, INSTALLATION in
Section 4.
8.
Coat bearing components with WHEEL BEARING
GREASE (Part No. HD-99855-89) and assemble.
2-34
5702
5701
Figure 2-38. Removing Roller Bearing Cups
9.
Install rear shock. See REAR SHOCK ABSORBER,
INSTALLATION on page 2-37.
Figure 2-39. Installing Bearings into Swingarm
b0250x2x
10. Install rear brake caliper assembly. See REAR BRAKE
CALIPER, INSTALLATION on page 2-26.
11. Install rear wheel. See REAR WHEEL, INSTALLATION
on page 2-13.
Acceptable preload is
3.5-5.5 lbs (1.6-2.5 kg)
12. Install rider footrests. See FOOTRESTS, INSTALLATION
on page 2-52.
13. Install rear fender. See FENDERS, REMOVAL/INSTALLATION on page 2-54.
14. Connect and fill lubrication system. See ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM in Section 1.
1WARNING
Always connect positive battery cable first. If the positive
cable should contact ground with the negative cable
installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion resulting in personal injury and/or property damage.
Pivot Shaft Bearing
Adjuster (Part No. B-41175)
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when tightening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
15. Connect battery cables, positive cable first.
1WARNING
After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be
sure it is locked in position. If seat is loose, it could shift
during vehicle operation and startle the rider, causing
loss of control and personal injury.
Figure 2-40. Adjusting Swingarm Preload
16. Install tail section, fuel tank and seat. See TAIL SECTION, INSTALLATION on page 2-55.
2-35
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
GENERAL
5541a
2
See Figure 2-41. The rear suspension features a WP Suspension shock absorber. The shock adjusts for compression and
rebound damping as well as spring preload.
3
1
The most important rear shock adjustment is the preload setting. Before making any suspension adjustments, set the
proper preload. This procedure can be found under SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTSon page 2-39.
NOTE
Rear shock absorber contains no user serviceable parts.
REMOVAL
1.
Lift rear wheel off ground using REAR WHEEL SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41174).
2.
Remove seat, fuel tank and tail section. See TAIL SECTION, REMOVAL on page 2-55.
3.
Support motorcycle frame with a floor hoist such as the
CENTRAL HYDRAULICS FOLDING CRANE.
4.
See Figure 2-41. Use a flex socket and extension to
remove allen screw on front reservoir clamp (3).
5.
Remove allen screw and locknut (4) (metric) on front
mounting point.
6.
Remove allen screw and locknut (1) (metric) on rear
mount while supporting shock absorber.
7.
Loosen rear reservoir clamp (2).
8.
Remove shock absorber assembly.
4
1.
2.
3.
4.
Rear allen screw and locknut (metric)
Rear reservoir clamp
Front reservoir clamp
Front allen screw and locknut (metric)
Figure 2-41. Rear Shock Mounting Hardware
5129a
Hydraulic press
Rear Shock Compressing
Tool (Part No. B-41178-A)
DISASSEMBLY
1WARNING
The following steps require using a press. Wear eye protection and make certain set-up is stable. The force
involved could cause parts to “flyout” at great speeds
causing personal injury.
1.
See Figure 2-42. Place rear shock absorber in a hydraulic press with REAR SHOCK COMPRESSING TOOL
(Part No. B-41178-A) on rear drawing ring.
2.
Apply pressure to compress shock spring. Loosen and
remove preload adjusting nuts (metric).
3.
Release pressure. Remove REAR SHOCK COMPRESSING TOOL (Part No. B-41178-A) and shock from
press.
4.
See Figure 2-43. Remove rear drawing ring (2).
5.
Remove support ring (3) and bump rubber (4).
6.
Remove circlip (5) on end of shock cartridge.
7.
Remove steel spring retainer (6).
8.
Remove spring (7).
2-36
Rear drawing
ring
Preload adjusting
nuts (metric)
Front drawing ring
Figure 2-42. Compressing Rear Shock
ASSEMBLY
INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 2-43. Install spring (7).
1.
See Figure 2-41. Loosely install reservoir clamps (2, 3).
2.
Install steel spring retainer (6).
2.
3.
Install circlip (5) on end of shock cartridge.
With banjo bolt facing upward, place shock in mounts and
loosely install front allen screw and locknut (4) (metric).
4.
Install bump rubber (4) and support ring (3).
3.
Loosely install rear allen screw and locknut (1) (metric).
Tighten reservoir clamp hardware (2, 3).
4.
Tighten front and rear allen screws (1, 4) (metric) to 4045 ft-lbs (54.2-61.0 Nm).
1WARNING
The following steps require using a press. Wear eye protection and make certain set-up is stable. The force
involved could cause parts to “flyout” at great speeds
causing personal injury.
5.
See Figure 2-42. Place rear shock absorber in a hydraulic press with REAR SHOCK COMPRESSING TOOL
(Part No. B-41178-A) on rear drawing ring.
6.
Apply pressure to compress shock spring. Install rear
preload adjusting nuts (metric).
7.
Release pressure. Remove REAR SHOCK COMPRESSING TOOL (Part No. B-41178-A) and shock from
press.
1WARNING
After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be
sure it is locked in position. If seat is loose, it could shift
during vehicle operation and startle the rider, causing
loss of control and personal injury.
5.
Install tail section, fuel tank and seat. See TAIL SECTION, INSTALLATION on page 2-55.
6.
Check rear shock preload. See SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS on page 2-39.
1
2
8
3
4
5
15
14
1.
6
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
13
7
3
12
9
10
12
16
11
17
b0213x2x
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
Preload adjusting nut
(2) (metric)
Drawing ring, rear
Support ring
Bump rubber
Circlip
Spring retainer (steel)
Spring
Rod (2)
Spring retainer (nylon)
Drawing ring, front
Shock mount and
hardware
Seal (4)
Bushing (2)
Heim joint (2)
Adaptor bushing (2)
Clamp
Clamp w/nut and
washer
Figure 2-43. Rear Shock
2-37
SUSPENSION THEORY
DEFINITIONS
5572
●
Compression: Suspension is compressed when the
wheel moves upward.
●
Damping: Resistance to movement. Damping affects
how easily the suspension can move and limits oscillation of the system once movement has begun.
●
Preload: The spring is compressed somewhat during
assembly. This initial compression provides a “loaded”
condition in the spring. This compression is referred to as
preload.
●
7 adjustments
Rebound: The suspension is rebounding when it is moving back from being compressed.
Figure 2-44. Rear Shock Rebound Adjuster
5571
GENERAL
12 adjustments
1WARNING
Before evaluating and adjusting suspension settings,
check the motorcycle’s tires. Tires must be in good condition and properly inflated. Failure to check the tires
may cause personal injury.
See Figure 2-44 and Figure 2-45. The rear suspension features a WP Suspension shock absorber that adjusts for compression and rebound damping as well as spring preload.
Figure 2-45. Rear Shock Compression Adjuster
5542
See Figure 2-46. The front suspension uses WP Suspension
inverted forks that adjust for compression and rebound damping. These forks offer strength and stiffness for improved sliding action, better shock absorption and compliance with the
road.
If the preload adjustment is correct, and you have the
rebound and compression damping set at the factory recommended points the motorcycle should handle and ride properly. If you are unhappy with these settings they can be
changed according to the following procedures.
NOTE
Evaluating and changing the rebound and compression
damping is a very subjective process. Many variables affect
motorcycle handling under different circumstances. Changes
should be approached carefully.
2-38
Front fork rebound
damping adjuster
Front fork compression
damping adjuster
Figure 2-46. Front Fork Adjusters
SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS
REAR SHOCK PRELOAD
Rear shock spring preload must be adjusted before any other
adjustments can be attempted. This adjustment assures the
rear suspension has the proper amount of travel for the rider’s
weight. This setting should be made before the motorcycle is
ridden any distance. Your Buell dealer can assist you with rear
shock spring preload settings.
5540
Rear turn signal
mounting bolt
Improper preload will adversely affect both the handling and
the ride of the motorcycle. Correct setting of preload will
result in a motorcycle that suits the rider’s size and weight.
You will need three people to carry out this adjustment.
1.
Verify correct front and rear tire pressure. See SPECIFICATIONS on page 2-1.
2.
Remove all accessories from motorcycle including tank
bag and/or saddlebags.
3.
Take the motorcycle off the side stand and bounce the
rear up and down a few times to be sure the suspension
is free and not binding.
4.
See Figure 2-47. Measure the distance from the center
of the rear axle nut to the rear turn signal mounting bolt
without rider/passenger/cargo/accessories on the motorcycle.
5.
Install items removed in Step 2. Load all cargo.
6.
Bounce a few times on the seat to be sure the suspension is free and not binding.
7.
With the help of an assistant, take the same measurement with the vehicle fully loaded (rider/passenger/luggage/cargo). The assistant should help balance the
motorcycle so the rider can keep both feet on the footrests.
8.
●
Rear axle nut
Figure 2-47. Checking Rear Preload
Preload adjusting
nuts (metric)
Figure 2-48. Adjusting Rear Preload
Subtract the second measurement from the first. The difference, which is the squat, should be 0.25-0.75 in. (6.419.1 mm). If it is not, you will have to adjust the spring
preload.
1CAUTION
Be sure to apply the same number of turns to each
mechanical preload adjusting nut to ensure that the
end plates do not become misaligned. Misaligned
end plates will cause the shock absorber spring to
bind against the adjustment rods.
●
Be sure the plates are parallel within 1/64 in. (0.4 mm).
Misaligned end plates will cause the shock absorber
spring to bind against the adjustment rods.
9.
See Figure 2-48. Change the spring preload by adjusting
the mechanical preload adjusting nuts (metric) on the
rods that connect the end plates.
a.
Increase the preload by tightening the nuts.
b.
Decrease the preload by loosening the nuts.
2-39
ADJUSTMENTS
b0206x2x
Evaluating and changing the rebound and compression
damping is a very subjective process. A good performing suspension finds a proper balance between spring, spring preload, damping, track conditions and riding speed. However,
all settings are at best a compromise. If a rider fails to find a
good set-up, go back to the factory recommended settings
and start over again.
Make all suspension adjustments in one or two click increments. Adjusting more than one or two clicks at a time may
cause you to skip the best adjustment. Test ride after each
adjustment. When an adjustment makes no difference, return
to the previous adjustment and try a different approach.
To find the optimum settings you will need the preload properly adjusted, the tires properly inflated and a familiar bumpy
road. It is useful if the road contains a variety of different
bumps from small sharp bumps such as potholes or frost
heaves to large undulations. Begin the process by putting all
the damping adjustments at the factory recommended settings. Ride the bike over a variety of different surfaces and
bumps at different speeds. When the suspension is set properly the motorcycle will be stable and comfortable.
Rear Suspension Adjustments
Beyond the rear preload adjustment, the rear shock can also
be adjusted for rebound and compression damping. However,
it is important to note the rear preload must be set correctly
before performing any other adjustments.
See Table 2-6. The compression damping adjuster has 11
possible settings. Adjust compression damping by using the
black dial at the rear of the shock. Position #1 sets the minimum amount of compression damping. This is the softest setting. Position #11 maximizes compression damping. The
factory recommended setting is Position #5.
The rebound damping adjuster has 7 possible settings.
Changes are made using the dial on the remote nitrogen reservoir. When set to Position #1, the rear shock exhibits minimum rebound damping. At this setting, the shock will have a
very fast rebound. Position #7 sets the rear shock to maximum rebound damping. The factory recommended setting is
Position #3.
Front Suspension Adjustments
See Table 2-6. The fork compression damping adjuster on
right fork leg has 28 positions. Position #20 is the factory recommended setting.
The fork rebound adjuster on the left fork leg has 28 positions.
Position #12 is the factory recommended setting.
See Figure 2-49. To set the forks to their factory recommended setting, turn the adjusters clockwise until they lock.
Then turn the knobs counterclockwise the recommended 12
or 20 positions. A higher number of clicks increases damping.
2-40
R
EB
C
Left fork leg adjusterRebound damping
OM
Right fork leg adjusterCompression damping
FRONT FORK ADJUSTMENTS
Increase rebound/compression (slower):
Turn appropriate adjuster clockwise.
Decrease rebound/compression (faster):
Turn appropriate adjuster counterclockwise.
Figure 2-49. Fork Adjustments
TROUBLESHOOTING
The following tables list possible suspension and operating
troubles and their probable causes. Use the tables to keep
your motorcycle in good operating condition.
When making adjustments, remember there are two mediums in setting up a bike, geometry and suspension. Both
components work together because suspension is a part of
geometry. In order to solve handling problems, it is important
to diagnose the problem’s true nature. Chattering, sliding or
an uncomfortable feeling are suspension problems. Handling
and a swinging fork are geometric problems, but often these
problems can be solved by suspension adjustments.
1WARNING
This section is intended solely as a guide to diagnosing
problems. Carefully read the appropriate sections of this
manual before performing any work. Improper suspension adjustments may cause loss of control and personal
injury.
Table 2-6. Factory Recommended
Suspension Settings
RANGE IN
CLICKS
FACTORY
SETTING
SEE
FIGURE
Rear shock
rebound
7
3
Figure 2-44.
Rear shock
compression
11
5
Figure 2-45.
Front fork
rebound
28
12
Figure 2-46.
Front fork
compression
28
20
Figure 2-46.
PART
Table 2-7. General Suspension Problems
TROUBLESHOOTING CONDITION
ADJUSTMENT SOLUTION
Bike wallows through turns.
Feels loose or vague after bumps.
Wheel tends to “pogo” after passing over a bump. This is noticeable
by watching the bike continue to bounce as it travels over multiple
bumps.
Increase rebound damping.
Wheel responds to bump, but doesn’t return to ground quickly after
bumps. This is more pronounced over a series of bumps and is
often referred to as “packing down.”
Reduce rebound damping.
The bike bottoms out or dips while cornering.
Bike has excessive brake dive.
Increase compression damping.
Harsh ride particularly over washboard surfaces.
Bumps kick through handlebars or seat.
Suspension seems not to respond to bumps. This is evidenced by
tire chattering (a movement with short stroke and high frequency)
through corners or by jolting the rider over rough roads.
Reduce compression damping.
Table 2-8. Rear Suspension Problems
TROUBLESHOOTING CONDITION
ADJUSTMENT SOLUTION
“Pumping on the Rear” occurs when you are accelerating out of a
corner. This problems occurs in two varieties.
1. The first type has a movement with a long stroke and a high
frequency.
1.
The shock is too soft. Increase compression
damping. If the adjuster is already set to the maximum, add more preload to the spring (one turn
maximum).
2.
2.
In this case the shock is too hard. Decrease compression damping.
The second version has a movement with a short stroke and
high frequency.
Chattering during braking.
Decrease the compression damping. If the problem
persists, decrease rebound damping for a faster
rebound rate. Less spring preload may also help.
Lack of tire feedback.
The suspension is too soft. Increase compression
damping.
Sliding during cornering. Sliding may occur going into the corner or
accelerating out of the corner.
The suspension is too hard. Decrease compression
damping.
Table 2-9. Front Suspension Problems
TROUBLESHOOTING CONDITION
ADJUSTMENT SOLUTION
Not absorbing bumps.
A good suspension is a balance between damping and
track condition. Finding this balance requires exploring
all possible compression settings.
Lack of tire feedback.
Increase compression damping.
Tire slides.
Decrease compression damping.
2-41
Table 2-10. Rider Suspension Preferences
NOTE
All adjustments require rear shock preload to be properly adjusted for the rider’s size and weight. For information on setting rear
shock preload, see SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS, REAR SHOCK PRELOAD in this section.
DATE
FRONT FORK
REBOUND
Position #12
2-42
FRONT FORK
COMPRESSION
REAR SHOCK
COMPRESSION
Position #20
Position #5
REAR SHOCK
REBOUND
Position #3
RESULTS
Factory recommended
settings.
THROTTLE CONTROL
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
1.
See Figure 2-50. Slide rubber boot (5) off the cable
adjusters (2). Loosen jam nut (metric) on each adjuster.
2.
Remove two screws (1) (metric). Separate housings from
handlebar.
3.
See Figure 2-51. Unhook ferrules (7) from cable wheel (8).
4.
Remove cables from under cable guide (6).
5.
Remove cables from housings (5, 9) by loosening cable
adjusters (2) (metric).
6.
Remove air cleaner assembly. See AIR CLEANER,
REMOVAL in Section 4.
7.
Disconnect cables from carburetor.
8.
Remove cables from motorcycle.
CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
5587
1
5
2
1.
2.
3.
Screws (2) (metric)
Cable adjusters (2)
Idle control cable
Clean all parts in a non-flammable cleaning solvent. Blow dry
with compressed air. Replace cables if frayed, kinked or bent.
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
1.
Run cables in grooves on cable guide (6).
3.
Attach ferrules (7) to cable wheel (8). When properly
assembled, notches for ferrules will be at 12 o’clock.
4.
Position housings on right handlebar by engaging locating pin (10) on front housing with hole in handlebar.
Attach housings with screws (1) (metric). Tighten to 1217 in-lbs (1.4-1.9 Nm).
5.
4.
5.
Throttle control cable
Rubber boot
Figure 2-50. Throttle Control Cables
5719
3
See Figure 2-51. Screw cable assemblies (3, 4) into
housings (5, 9). Throttle control cable (4) has a larger fitting end and is positioned inside the front housing (5).
Idle control cable (3) has a smaller fitting end and is positioned inside the rear housing (9).
2.
4
3
10
4
2
9
1
6
8
5
7
Route idle and throttle control cables.
a.
Cables must be routed forward from throttle control
grip, forward of upper triple clamp and down and to
the left.
b.
Continue between side of frame steering head and
left frame tube. Cables should be above and to the
left of the D-shaped washer behind the steering
head.
c.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Screws (2) (metric)
Cable adjusters (2)
Idle control cable
Throttle control cable
Front housing
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Cable guide
Ferrules
Cable wheel
Rear housing
Locating pin
Figure 2-51. Cable Connections
Route cables below the fuel tank and above the horn
mount. Continue downward to carburetor.
6.
Install idle control cable into longer, inboard cable guide
on carburetor.
7.
Install throttle control cable into shorter, outboard cable
guide on carburetor.
8.
Adjust throttle cables. See CARBURETOR, CABLE
ADJUSTMENT in Section 1.
9.
Install air cleaner. See AIR CLEANER, INSTALLATION
in Section 4.
2-43
CLUTCH CONTROL
ADJUSTMENT
Clutch Hand Control
See CLUTCH in Section 1.
1.
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
See Figure 2-53. Detach clutch switch (7) as follows.
a.
Remove screw (8).
b.
Depress clutch lever and hold.
c.
Detach switch by depressing switch trigger button
and pulling switch towards the end of the handlebar.
Clutch Cable – Lower
1.
Raise rear wheel off floor using REAR WHEEL SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41174).
NOTE
The individual parts of the clutch switch are not serviceable.
Replace switch upon failure.
2.
See Figure 2-52. Remove four TORX screws (1) with
washers and clutch inspection cover (2). Do not damage
or dislodge quad ring (14) in primary cover (11).
2.
Remove bolt (2) (metric) and nut (6) (metric).
3.
Remove handlever from clutch clamp (5). Detach clutch
cable from handlever.
4.
Slide clutch cable out of wire guide (10) on right fork leg.
5.
Remove clutch cable clamp (11) from frame.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Slide spring (3) with attached hex lockplate (4) from flats
of adjusting screw (12).
Turn adjusting screw clockwise to release ramp and coupling mechanism. As the adjusting screw is turned, ramp
assembly moves forward. Unscrew nut (5) from end of
adjusting screw.
6.
Remove hook of ramp (6) from button at the rear of cable
end coupling (16). Remove cable end (10) from slot in
coupling.
Turn cable end fitting (9) counterclockwise to remove
clutch cable lower section from primary cover (11).
Remove O-ring (8) from cable end fitting.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
TORX screw with washer (4)
Clutch inspection cover
Spring
Adjusting screw lockplate
Nut
Outer ramp
Ball (3)
O-ring
Cable end fitting
Clutch cable end
Primary cover
Clutch adjusting screw
assembly
Retaining ring
Quad ring
Inner ramp
Coupling
2
Remove clutch clamp as follows.
a.
Cut off left handgrip.
b.
Remove left handlebar switch housing. See HANDLEBAR SWITCHES in Section 7.
c.
Detach mirror mounting hardware (metric, left hand
threads).
d.
Remove clamp screw (4) (metric). Slide clamp off
the end of the handlebar.
b0131x6x
11
12
10
9
8
6
3
4
7
5
13
1
15
16
NOTE
Outer ramp (6) and coupling (16) configuration may vary. See CLUTCH in Section 1.
Figure 2-52. Clutch Release Mechanism
2-44
14
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
b0221x2x
Clutch Cable – Lower
1.
See Figure 2-52. Install O-ring (8) over cable end fitting
(9) of clutch cable lower section. Turn fitting clockwise to
install into primary cover (11). Tighten fitting to 3-5 ft-lbs
(4.0-6.8 Nm).
2.
Fit coupling (16) over cable end. Place hook of ramp
around coupling button and rotate assembly counterclockwise until tang on inner ramp (15) fits in slot of primary cover (11).
3.
4.
5.
6.
3
Thread nut (5) on adjusting screw (12) until slot of screw
is accessible with a screwdriver. Fit nut hex into recess of
outer ramp (6) and turn adjusting screw counter-clockwise.
1
2
4
If not yet performed, route clutch cable from hand grip
across front of upper triple clamp to right side, down
between right fork leg and steering neck above lower triple clamp. Continue down to left side of bike through
clamp along primary chaincase to clutch.
5
With clutch cable upper section connected to clutch
lever, adjust primary chain tension. See PRIMARY
CHAIN in Section 1.
6
9
7
ve
mo
e
R
7)
h(
c
t
i
sw
8
Adjust clutch. See CLUTCH in Section 1.
Clutch Hand Control
1.
See Figure 2-53. Attach clutch clamp (5) as follows.
a.
Slide clamp over handlebar.
b.
Install left switchgear housing. See HANDLEBAR
SWITCHES in Section 7.
c.
Place clamp next to switchgear housing. Fasten to
handlebar with screw (4) (metric). Tighten screw to
30-35 in-lbs (3.4-4.0 Nm).
d.
Install mirror parallel to handlebars. Mirror mount
has metric, left hand threads.
e.
Install a new left handgrip. See HANDLEBAR,
INSTALLATION on page 2-49.
2.
Connect end of clutch cable upper section to clutch handlever. Position lever within clutch clamp.
3.
Apply small amount of LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT to bolt (2). Secure handlever with bolt (2) (metric)
and nut (6) (metric).
4.
Attach clutch switch (7) with screw (8).
5.
If not yet performed, route clutch cable from hand grip
across front of upper triple clamp to right side, down
between right fork leg and steering neck above lower triple clamp. Continue down to left side of bike through
clamp along primary chaincase to clutch.
6.
With clutch cable lower section connected to primary
cover, adjust clutch. See CLUTCH in Section 1.
11
10
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Clutch handlever
Bolt (metric)
Mirror assembly
Screw (metric)
Clutch clamp
Nut (metric)
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Clutch switch
Screw
Clutch cable
Wire guide
Cable clamp
Figure 2-53. Clutch Hand Control
2-45
SPEEDOMETER AND TACHOMETER
GENERAL
5716
2
Replace the speedometer or tachometer if the unit is not
working properly. These instruments are not repairable. However, before replacing the instrument check that the problem
is not caused by a faulty cable or loose wire connection.
1
4
REMOVAL
3
Speedometer
1.
Detach windscreen from mounts. See WINDSCREEN,
REMOVAL on page 2-56.
2.
See Figure 2-54. Loosen and remove the speedometer
cable (5) from the speedometer.
3.
Remove nuts and lockwashers (4) from speedometer
cover (1).
4.
Straighten reset cable cotter pin and remove. Discard
pin. Detach reset cable assembly from speedometer.
5.
Remove cover. Remove wires from clamp inside cover.
6.
Detach ground wire.
7.
See Figure 2-55. Disconnect wire terminals from back of
speedometer. Pull bulbs (3) from bores.
8.
Remove speedometer (1) through front of instrument
support (8).
5
6
1.
2.
3.
Speedometer cover
Tachometer cover
Windscreen mount
4.
5.
6.
Nut and lockwasher (3)
Speedometer cable
Odometer reset cable
Figure 2-54. Instruments
2.
Attach ground wire with screw and lockwasher.
3.
Connect wire terminals on back of speedometer. Insert
bulbs into bores at back of speedometer.
4.
See Figure 2-54. Using a new cotter pin, connect reset
cable assembly (6) to speedometer.
Tachometer
1.
Detach windscreen from mounts. See WINDSCREEN,
REMOVAL on page 2-56.
5.
Place speedometer cover over speedometer. Tighten
nuts and lockwashers (4).
2.
See Figure 2-54. Remove nut and lockwasher (4) from
tachometer cover (2).
6.
Connect speedometer cable (5) to speedometer.
7.
3.
Remove nut on windscreen mount (3). Remove windscreen mount from tachometer cover.
Attach windscreen. See WINDSCREEN, INSTALLATION
on page 2-56.
4.
Remove tachometer cover.
Tachometer
5.
Remove ground wires from bottom stud.
1.
6.
See Figure 2-55. Disconnect wire terminals from back of
tachometer. Pull bulbs (3) from bores.
See Figure 2-55. If removed, install instrument support
(8). Slide tachometer into instrument support (8).
2.
7.
Remove tachometer (2) through front of instrument support (8).
Connect wire terminals on back of tachometer. Insert
bulbs into bores.
3.
Attach ground wire.
4.
See Figure 2-54. Slide tachometer cover (2) over
tachometer. Install nut and lockwasher (4).
5.
Install windscreen mount (3) with nut.
6.
Attach windscreen. See WINDSCREEN, INSTALLATION
on page 2-56.
Instrument Support
1.
Remove speedometer and tachometer.
2.
See Figure 2-55. Remove knurled nut (5), washer (6) and
odometer reset cable.
3.
Pull indicator lights assembly (4) out towards the headlamp. Pull bezel (19) out towards the tail lamp.
4.
Remove two screws (7).
5.
Remove instrument support.
Instrument Support
1.
See Figure 2-55. Attach instrument support to mounts
using two screws (7). Tighten screws to 7-9 ft-lbs (9.512.2 Nm).
2.
Install odometer reset cable using washer (6) and
knurled nut (5).
3.
Insert bezel (19) through instrument support. Attach indicator lights assembly (4) to bezel.
INSTALLATION
Speedometer
1.
See Figure 2-55. If removed, install instrument support
(8). Slide speedometer into instrument support.
2-46
b0214x2x
1
3
2
4
5
8
6
11
19
9
12
11
7
17
14
10
13
15
18
16
14
15
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Speedometer
Tachometer
Bulb
Indicator light assembly
Knurled nut
Washer
Screw (2)
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
Instrument support
Odometer reset cable
Cotter pin
Rubber cushion (2)
Speedometer cover
Tachometer cover
Lockwasher (3)
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
Nut (2)
Wire guide
Speedometer drive
Speedometer cable
Indicator lamp bezel
Figure 2-55. Speedometer and Tachometer
2-47
SPEEDOMETER CABLE
5575
Cable Cleaning, Inspection
and Lubrication
Clean, inspect and lubricate speedometer cable every 5000
miles (8000 km). Proceed as follows:
1.
See Figure 2-56. Examine speedometer cable housing
(outer sheathing) for kinks or other damage. Replace
entire cable assembly if any damage is noted.
2.
Detach windscreen from mounts. See WINDSCREEN,
REMOVAL on page 2-56.
3.
Loosen and remove the speedometer cable assembly
from the speedometer.
4.
Carefully withdraw inner speedometer cable from its
housing. Exercise caution to avoid stretching coils of
inner cable. Outer cable housing remains attached to
speedometer drive unit.
5.
Carefully wipe off old lubricant from inner cable. Inspect
cable coils for bends, bulges, discoloration or other
defects. Replace entire cable assembly if any damage or
defect is noted.
6.
Apply a good quality graphite grease to entire length of
inner cable. Wipe off excess grease.
7.
Insert inner cable fully into its housing, rotating inner
cable somewhat to allow its lower end to engage with
speedometer drive unit. Inner cable will no longer rotate
once engaged with drive unit.
8.
Insert pin of speedometer cable into receptacle at back
of speedometer. Tighten to secure cable.
9.
Attach windscreen. See WINDSCREEN, INSTALLATION
on page 2-56.
Speedometer Drive Unit
See the procedures listed under FRONT WHEEL starting on
page 2-8.
2-48
Clip on headlamp
Wire guide
Speedometer
cable housing
Figure 2-56. Speedometer Cable
HANDLEBAR
REMOVAL
1.
Remove front brake master cylinder. See FRONT
BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER, REMOVAL on page 2-19.
2.
Remove left and right handlebar switch housings. See
HANDLEBAR SWITCHES in Section 7.
3.
Cut left handlebar grip and remove.
4.
Remove instrument support. See SPEEDOMETER AND
TACHOMETER on page 2-46.
5.
Loosen four screws (1) on upper handlebar clamp (2).
6.
Move handlebar towards the air cleaner to increase clutch
cable freeplay. Remove clutch control. See CLUTCH
CONTROL, REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY on page 2-44.
7.
8.
1
2
3
5
4
Remove four screws (1), upper handlebar clamp (2) and
handlebars (3).
Remove four bolts (8), lockwashers (7) and washers (6)
to detach lower handlebar clamps (4, 5) from upper triple
clamp.
INSTALLATION
1.
Install lower handlebar clamps (4, 5) with four bolts (8),
lockwashers (7) and washers (6). Tighten to 30-33 ft-lbs
(40.7-44.7 Nm).
2.
Install clutch control. See CLUTCH CONTROL, ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION on page 2-45.
3.
Install handlebar (3) using upper handlebar clamp (2)
and four screws (1). Tighten screws to 10-12 ft-lbs (13.616.2 Nm).
4.
Install instrument support. See SPEEDOMETER AND
TACHOMETER on page 2-46.
5.
Install left and right handlebar switch housings. See
HANDLEBAR SWITCHES in Section 7.
6.
Install a new left handgrip.
7.
b0220x2x
a.
Clean end of handlebar with M600.
b.
Place LOCTITE 411 ADHESIVE around inside of
grip.
c.
Push grip onto handlebar end. Twist grip on bar until
end touches left switchgear housing.
d.
Wipe off excess adhesive with a rag.
6
7
8
1.
2.
3.
4.
Screw (4)
Upper handlebar
clamp
Handlebar
Lower right handlebar
clamp
5.
6.
7.
8.
Lower left handlebar
clamp
Washer (4)
Lockwasher (4)
Bolt (4)
Figure 2-57. Handlebars
Install front brake master cylinder. See FRONT BRAKE
MASTER CYLINDER, INSTALLATION on page 2-19.
2-49
EXHAUST SYSTEM
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
Muffler
1.
See Figure 2-58. Remove bolts (2), locknuts (9) and
washers (6) from rear muffler supports (19).
2.
Remove bolt (3) and locknut (9) from muffler support (15).
3.
Loosen muffler clamp (14).
4.
Loosen screw (1) on header tiebar (26).
5.
Remove muffler (13) and muffler clamp. Discard clamp.
6.
Remove muffler/header supports (15, 19) as follows:
a.
Remove bolts (4), locknuts (9) and washers (21).
b.
Remove rear muffler mounts (24) and mount spacers (20).
c.
Remove bolts (5), locknuts (10) and washers (7).
d.
Remove muffler support (15). Remove front muffler
mounts (25) and mount spacer.
Exhaust Header
1.
See Figure 2-58. Remove muffler as described above.
2.
Remove screw (1), locknut (11) and washers (27) from
header tiebar (26).
3.
3.
Coat inside of muffler inlet with PERMATEX ULTRACOPPER HIGH TEMP RTV SILICON GASKET material.
4.
Place a new muffler clamp (14) over slotted end of muffler. Place muffler and clamp on end of exhaust header.
Loosely tighten clamp.
NOTE
If necessary, use a fiber hammer to fit muffler on header.
5.
Install bolt (3) and locknut (9). Tighten to 22-25 ft-lbs
(29.8-33.9 Nm).
1WARNING
Before tightening muffler hardware, position muffler to
provide adequate clearance from rear shock absorber
and side stand spring post. Failure to provide adequate
clearance may cause personal injury during motorcycle
operation.
6.
Install rear mounting bolts (2), washers (6), and locknuts
(9). Tighten to 22-25 ft-lbs (29.8-33.9 Nm).
Using a SNAP-ON SWIVEL SOCKET (Part No.
PFSX916), remove nuts (8) from front and rear cylinder
head exhaust studs.
7.
Tighten muffler clamp (13) to 50-55 ft-lbs (67.8-74.6 Nm).
4.
Remove exhaust header clamps (18), exhaust clamp
retaining rings (17) and exhaust port gaskets (16).
Exhaust Header
5.
Remove exhaust header (12).
6.
Remove heat shield clamps (23) and heat shield (22)
from exhaust header.
1.
See Figure 2-58. Install new exhaust port gaskets (16),
exhaust clamp retaining rings (17), exhaust header
clamps (18), and nuts (8). Loosely tighten nuts with
SNAP-ON SWIVEL SOCKET (Part No. PFSX916).
2.
Install screw (1) with washers (27) and locknut (11).
Tighten to 5-7 ft-lbs (6.8-9.5 Nm).
3.
Place a new muffler clamp (14) over slotted end of muffler. Place muffler and clamp on end of exhaust header
(20). Loosely tighten clamp.
4.
Tighten manifold nuts (8) to 6-8 ft-lbs (8.1-10.8 Nm).
5.
Tighten muffler clamp (13) to 50-55 ft-lbs (67.8-74.6 Nm).
6.
If removed, install heat shield (22) with heat shield
clamps (23).
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
Muffler
1.
See Figure 2-58. If removed, install exhaust header (12).
2.
If removed, install muffler/header supports (15, 19).
a.
Hold rear muffler mounts (24), mount spacers (20)
and muffler supports (19) in place. Fasten with bolts
(4), locknuts (9), washers (21). Tighten to 12-15 ftlbs (16.3-20.3 Nm).
b.
Fasten muffler support (15) to crankcase with bolts
(5), washers (7) and locknuts (10). Tighten to 30-33
ft-lbs (40.7-44.7 Nm).
c.
Install front muffler mounts (25) and mount spacer.
2-50
b0212x2x
24
9
19
21
20
21
4
15
7
5
7
6
9
6
2
25
10
25
20
3
9
16
13
17
18
8
14
22
11
26
27
23
12
27
1
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Screw
Bolt (2)
Bolt
Bolt (2)
Bolt (2)
Washer (4)
Washer (5)
Nut (4)
Locknut (5)
Locknut (2)
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
Locknut
Exhaust header
Muffler
Muffler clamp
Muffler support
Exhaust port gasket (2)
Exhaust clamp retaining
ring (2)
18. Exhaust header clamp (2)
19. Muffler support (2)
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
Mount spacer (3)
Washer (4)
Heat shield
Heat shield clamp (2)
Rear muffler mount (2)
Front muffler mount (2)
Header tiebar
Washer (2)
Figure 2-58. Exhaust System
2-51
FOOTRESTS
REMOVAL
b0215x2x
1.
See Figure 2-59. Remove locknut (1) and bolt (2).
2.
Remove footrest.
a.
Detach passenger footrests (3) from frame.
b.
Detach rider footrests (4) from footrest mounts (5).
1
3.
If necessary, remove bolts (10) and washers (9) to
remove footrest mounts from frame.
NOTE
Brake pedal and shift lever must be removed with footrest
mounts. See REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER in this section and PRIMARY COVER in Section 6 or more information.
2
3
8
1
5
10
9
INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 2-59. Install passenger footrests with bolts (2)
and locknuts (1). Tighten securely.
NOTE
Tighten bolts (2) so footrests are tight, but not binding.
2.
If removed, install footrest mounts (5).
a.
Assemble brake pedal with bushing (8) on the inside
and thrust washer (6) on the outside. Fasten brake
pedal to frame with bolt (10), washer (9) and footrest
mount.
b.
Assemble shift lever with bushing on the inside and
thrust washer on the outside. Fasten shift lever to
frame with bolt, washer and footrest mount.
3.
Install rider footrests with bolts (2) and locknuts (1).
Tighten securely.
4.
Adjust shift lever and brake pedal for smooth operation.
2-52
4
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
2
Locknut (4)
Bolt (4)
Passenger footrest (2)
Rider footrest (2)
Footrest mount (2)
6
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
7
Thrust washer (2)
Rear brake pedal
Bushing (2)
Washer (2)
Bolt (2)
Figure 2-59. Footrests, Right Side
SPROCKET COVER
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
1.
See Figure 2-60. Remove nut (1) and washer (2).
2.
Remove two screws (3).
3.
Remove sprocket cover screw (5), washer (6) and
spacer (8).
4.
Remove swingarm drive/support (4) and sprocket cover
(7) as an assembly.
5.
Remove two screws (9) to separate sprocket cover from
swingarm/drive support.
b0204x2x
9
8
6
5
7
3
4
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 2-60. If removed, attach sprocket cover to
swingarm/drive support with two screws (9). Tighten
screws to 12-17 in-lbs (1.4-1.9 Nm).
2.
Install sprocket cover assembly with screw (5), washer (6)
and spacer (8). Tighten screw to 4-6 ft-lbs (5.4-8.6 Nm).
3.
Install screws (3). Tighten to 20-25 ft-lbs (27.1-33.9 Nm).
4.
Install nut (1) and washer (2). Tighten nut to 30-35 ft-lbs
(40.7-47.4 Nm).
2
1
1.
2.
3.
4.
Nut
Washer
Screw (2)
Swingarm/drive
support
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Sprocket cover crew
Washer
Sprocket cover
Spacer
Screw (2)
Figure 2-60. Sprocket Cover
2-53
FENDERS
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
b0216x2x
Front Fender
1.
1
Raise front wheel off ground with FRONT WHEEL SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41395) and S1 LIFT
ADAPTER (Part No. B-41686).
2.
Remove front brake caliper. See FRONT BRAKE CALIPER, REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY on page 2-20.
3.
See Figure 2-61. Remove lower fender mounting screws
(8) (metric), washers (9) and plastic spacers (6).
4.
Remove upper fender mounting screws (3), washers (4),
wire guides (5), plastic spacers (6) and locknuts (7).
5.
Carefully remove fender (1) from between front forks.
6.
Install in reverse order.
a.
Tighten upper fender mounting screws (3) to 20-25
in-lbs (2.3-2.8 Nm).
b.
Tighten lower fender mounting screws (8) (metric) to
10-15 in-lbs (1.1-1.7 Nm).
2
5 6
7
3
9
6
8
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Front fender
Reflector (2)
Screw (2)
Washer (2)
Wire guide (2)
Rear Fender/Lower Belt Guard
1.
See Figure 2-62. Unplug connector (10)
2.
Remove screws (13) and nylon washers (2) on right side
to detach lower belt guard (11).
3.
Remove shoulder bolts (7), washers (8) and grommets
(9) on left side.
4.
Remove rear fender (6) from swingarm.
5.
Install in reverse order.
4
6.
7.
8.
9.
Plastic spacer (4)
Locknut (2)
Screw (2) (metric)
Nylon washer (2)
Figure 2-61. Front Fender
b0218x2x
3
2
4
1
5
6
7
Frame Heat Shield
1.
Remove seat and tail section. See TAIL SECTION,
REMOVAL on page 2-55.
2.
See Figure 2-62. Remove screws (1), nylon washers (2)
and locknut (4).
3.
Remove frame heat shield (5).
4.
If necessary, remove clamp (3).
5.
Install in reverse order.
8
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Torx screw (3)
Nylon washer (5)
Clamp
Locknut
Frame heat shield
Rear fender
Shoulder bolt (2)
Washer (2)
Grommet (2)
Connector
Lower belt guard
Well nut (3)
Torx screw (3)
9
13
2
11
12
Figure 2-62. Rear Fender, Lower Belt Guard
and Heat Shield
2-54
10
TAIL SECTION
REMOVAL
1.
b0217x2x
See Figure 2-63. Loosen seat wing screw (1). Remove
seat by pulling up and back.
2.
Remove two screws (4) and nylon washers (3).
3.
Loosen fuel tank screw (6).
4.
Lift fuel tank (8) and withdraw tail section.
4
2
5
3
6
7
NOTE
See FUEL TANK, REMOVAL in Section 4 for information on
removing fuel tank from frame.
1
8
INSTALLATION
1.
Place tail section on frame so mounting holes align with
holes on frame.
2.
See Figure 2-63. Install two screws (4) and nylon washers (3).
1.
2.
3.
4.
Seat wing screw
Tail section
Nylon washer (2)
Torx screw (2)
5.
6.
7.
8.
Seat
Screw
Washer
Fuel tank
Figure 2-63. Tail Section
NOTE
If fuel tank was removed, see FUEL TANK, INSTALLATION in
Section 4.
3.
Tighten screw (6) to 9-11 ft-lbs (12.2-14.9 Nm).
1WARNING
After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be
sure it is locked in position. If seat is loose, it could shift
during vehicle operation and startle the rider, causing
loss of control and personal injury.
4.
Place seat on tail section. Tighten wing screw.
2-55
WINDSCREEN
REMOVAL
1.
See Figure 2-64. Remove two screws and nylon washers
on each side.
2.
Detach windscreen from center bracket on tachometer
cover. Remove windscreen.
3.
If necessary, remove the three windscreen brackets.
a.
See Figure 2-65. Remove center windscreen
bracket by removing nut on tachometer cover.
b.
While holding headlamp, remove left and right headlamp adjusting screws (metric). Slide windscreen
brackets from between headlamp housing and
headlamp brackets.
5724
Screws and
nylon washers
Figure 2-64. Windscreen, Right Side
INSTALLATION
1.
If removed, install the three windscreen brackets.
a.
See Figure 2-65. Install center bracket using nut.
b.
Install left and right brackets between headlamp
housing and headlamp brackets. Tighten headlamp
adjusting screws (metric) 6-8 ft-lbs (8.1-10.8 Nm).
2.
Align windscreen on right, left and center brackets.
Attach windscreen to center bracket velcro strip.
3.
See Figure 2-64. Install two screws and nylon washers
on each side.
5723
1
2
1.
Center bracket with
nut and velcro strip
3
2.
3.
Right bracket
Left bracket
Figure 2-65. Windscreen Brackets
2-56
SEAT
REMOVAL
5725
1.
See Figure 2-66. Detach seat from frame by loosening
the wing screw underneath the tail section.
2.
Remove seat by pulling up and back.
INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 2-67. Install seat by sliding the metal locating
tab on the underside of the seat into the opening on the
motorcycle.
Figure 2-66. Seat Wing Screw
1WARNING
After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be
sure it is locked in position. If seat is loose, it could shift
during vehicle operation and startle the rider, causing
loss of control and personal injury.
2.
5722
See Figure 2-66. Fasten seat to frame with wing screw.
Tighten securely.
Tab
Opening
Figure 2-67. Seat Mount
2-57
SIDE STAND
GENERAL
b0219x2x
The side stand is located on the left side of the motorcycle.
The side stand swings outward to support the motorcycle for
parking.
3
Test the side stand in the following manner. Without vehicle
weight resting on it, side stand should move freely into
extended (down) and retracted (up) positions.
2
1
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
1.
See Figure 2-68. Remove spring (6) from side stand and
spring pin (5).
2.
Remove retaining clip (7) and pivot pin (8). Detach side
stand from frame.
3.
Remove screw (2) and side stand dragger (1).
4.
Remove bumper (3) from frame.
8
4
6
7
5
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 2-68. Attach bumper (3) to frame.
2.
Attach side stand dragger (1) to side stand with screw (2).
3.
Install side stand using pivot pin (8) and retaining clip (7).
4.
Connect spring (6) to side stand and spring pin (5).
●
1WARNING
If the side stand is not in the full forward position
when vehicle weight is rested on it, the vehicle could
fall over, possibly causing personal injury.
●
Always park motorcycle on a level, firm surface.
Vehicle weight could cause motorcycle to fall over,
possibly causing personal injury.
●
Be sure side stand is fully retracted before riding the
motorcycle. If side stand is not fully retracted during
vehicle operation, it could contact the road surface
causing a momentary disturbance before retracting.
This momentary disturbance could distract the rider,
possibly causing loss of vehicle control and personal injury.
2-58
1.
2.
3.
4.
Side stand dragger
Screw
Bumper
Side stand
5.
6.
7.
8.
Spring pin
Spring
Retaining clip
Pivot pin
Figure 2-68. Side Stand
3
SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL
ENGINE IGNITION SPECIFICATIONS
Number of cylinders
2
4-cycle, 45°V Twin
Type
Horsepower
91 @ 5800 RPM
Torque (foot-pounds)
87 @ 5200 RPM
Compression ratio
10.0 to 1
5° BTDC
Timing with engine at
RPM listed below and
V.O.E.S. connected
20° BTDC
Regular idle
Bore
3.500 in.
88.9 mm
Stroke
3.812 in.
96.82 mm
Piston displacement
73.4 in.3
1203 cc
2.1 quarts
1.90 liters
Oil tank capacity with filter
Timing during engine
cranking
950-1050
RPM
(49 State)
Fast idle (all models)
Spark plug gap
1150-1250
RPM
(Calif.)
2000 RPM
0.038-0.045 in.
0.96-1.14 mm
NOTE
Service wear limits are given as a guideline for measuring components that are not new. For measurements not given under
SERVICE WEAR LIMITS, see NEW COMPONENTS.
ITEM
NEW COMPONENTS
SERVICE WEAR LIMITS
VALVE
Fit in
guide
Exhaust
0.0015-0.0033 in.
0.038-0.084 mm
0.0040 in.
0.102 mm
Intake
0.008-0.0026 in.
0.020-0.066 mm
0.0035 in.
0.089 mm
Seat width
0.040-0.062 in.
1.02-1.57 mm
0.090 in.
2.29 mm
Stem protrusion from
cylinder valve pocket
1.975-2.011 in.
50.17-51.08 mm
2.031 in.
51.59 mm
2.105-2.177 in.
53.47-55.30 mm
2.105 in. (min)
53.47 mm (min)
1.751-1.848 in.
(closed)
72-92 lbs
32.6-41.7 kg
1.286-1.383 in.
(open)
183-207 lbs
82.9-93.8 kg
1.751-1.848 in.
(closed)
72-92 lbs
32.6-41.7 kg
1.332-1.429 in.
(open)
171-195 lbs
77.5-88.3 kg
1.926 in. (min)
48.92 mm (min)
OUTER VALVE SPRING
Free length
Intake
Exhaust
INNER VALVE SPRING
Free length
Intake
Exhaust
1.926-1.996 in.
48.92-50.70 mm
1.577-1.683 in.
(closed)
38-49 lbs
17.2-22.2 kg
1.112-1.218 in.
(open)
98-112 lbs
44.4-50.7 kg
1.577-1.683 in.
(closed)
38-49 lbs
17.2-22.2 kg
1.158-1.264 in.
(open)
91-106 lbs
41.2-48.0 kg
3-1
ITEM
NEW COMPONENTS
SERVICE WEAR LIMITS
ROCKER ARM
Shaft fit in bushing (loose)
0.0005-0.0020 in.
0.013-0.051 mm
0.0035 in.
0.089 mm
End clearance
0.003-0.013 in.
0.08-0.33 mm
0.025 in
0.64 mm
Bushing fit in rocker arm (tight)
0.004-0.002 in.
0.10-0.05 mm
0.0007-0.0022 in.
0.018-0.056 mm
0.0035 in.
0.089 mm
0.007-0.020 in.
0.18-0.51 mm
0.032 in.
0.81 mm
ROCKER ARM SHAFT
Shaft fit in rocker cover (loose)
PISTON
Compression ring gap
(top and 2nd)
Oil control ring rail gap
0.009-0.052 in.
0.23-1.32 mm
0.065 in
1.65 mm
Top
0.0020-0.0045 in.
0.051-0.114 mm
0.0065 in.
0.165 mm
2nd
0.0016-0.0041 in.
0.041-0.104 mm
0.0065 in.
0.165 mm
Oil control ring side clearance
0.0016-0.0076 in.
0.041-0.193 mm
0.0094 in.
0.239 mm
Pin fit
(loose, at room temperature)
0.00005-0.00045 in.
0.0013-0.0114 mm
0.00100 in.
0.0254 mm
Valve guide in head (tight)
0.0033-0.0020 in.
0.084-0.051 mm
Valve seat in head (tight)
0.0035-0.0010 in.
0.089-0.025 mm
0.006 in. total
0.15 mm total
0.006 in. total
0.15 mm total
Taper
0.002 in.
0.05 mm
Out of round
0.003 in.
0.08 mm
0.006 in.
0.15 mm
Compression
ring side
clearance
CYLINDER HEAD
Head gasket surface (flatness)
CYLINDER
Warpage
(gasket surfaces)
Top
0.008 in.
0.20 mm
Bore diameter
± 0.0002 in.
Standard
3.4978 in.
88.844 mm
3.5008 in.
88.920 mm
0.005 OS
3.502 in.
88.95 mm
3.505 in.
89.03 mm
0.010 OS
3.507 in.
89.08 mm
3.510 in.
89.15 mm
0.020 OS
3.517 in.
89.33 mm
3.520 in.
89.41 mm
0.030 OS
3.527 in.
89.59 mm
3.530 in.
89.66 mm
0.00125-0.00175 in.
0.0318-0.0445 mm
0.00200 in.
0.0508 mm
OS=over size
Base
CONNECTING ROD
Piston pin fit (loose)
Side play between flywheels
0.005-0.025 in.
0.13-0.64 mm
0.030 in.
0.76 mm
0.0004-0.0017 in.
0.010-0.043 mm
0.0027 in.
0.069 mm
Fit in guide
0.0008-0.0023 in.
0.020-0.058 mm
0.003 in.
0.08 mm
Roller fit
0.0006-0.0013 in.
0.015-0.033 mm
0.008-0.022 in.
0.203-0.599 mm
0.026 in.
0.660 mm
1000 RPM
7-12 PSI
0.5-0.8 kN/cm2
2500 RPM
10-17 PSI
0.7-1.2 kN/cm2
Shaft to pump clearance
0.0025 in.
0.064 mm
Feed/scavenge inner/outer
gerotor clearance
0.003 in.
0.08 mm
0.004 in.
0.10 mm
Fit on crankpin (loose)
TAPPET
Roller end clearance
OIL PUMP
Oil pressure at
normal operating
temperature
3-2
ITEM
NEW COMPONENTS
SERVICE WEAR LIMITS
GEARCASE
Cam gear shaft in
bushing (loose)
0.0007-0.0022 in.
0.018-0.056 mm
0.003 in.
0.08 mm
Cam gear shaft end play
(min) (except rear intake)
0.005-0.024 in.
0.13-0.61 mm
0.025 in.
0.64 mm
Rear intake cam gear shaft
end play (min)
0.006-0.024 in.
0.15-0.61 mm
0.040 in.
1.02 mm
Flywheels at rim
0.000-0.010 in.
0.00-0.25 mm
0.010 in.
0.25 mm
Shaft at
flywheel end
0.000-0.002 in.
0.00-0.05 mm
0.002 in.
0.05 mm
0.001-0.005 in.
0.025-0.13 mm
0.005 in.
0.13 mm
Outer race fit in
crankcase (tight)
0.0004-0.0024 in.
0.010-0.061 mm
Bearing inner race fit
on shaft (tight)
0.0002-0.0015 in.
0.005-0.038 mm
Pinion shaft jounal diameter
1.2496-1.2500 in.
31.740-31.750 mm
1.2496 in. (min)
31.375 mm (min)
Outer race diameter in
right crankcase
1.5646-1.5652 in.
39.741-39.756 mm
1.5672 in. (max)
39.807 mm (max)
0.00012-0.00088 in.
0.0030-0.0224 mm
0.0023-0.0043 in.
0.058-0.109 mm
0.0050 in.
0.127 mm
FLYWHEEL
Runout
End play
SPROCKET SHAFT BEARING
PINION SHAFT BEARINGS
Bearing running clearance
Fit in cover bushing
(loose)
3-3
ITEM
TORQUE
NOTES
Crank pin nut
150-185 ft-lbs
203-251 Nm
LOCTITE 620 RETAINING COMPOUND, page 3-59
Crankcase 1/4 in. screws
70-110 in-lbs
7.9-12.4 Nm
page 3-63
Crankcase 5/16 in. screws
15-18 ft-lbs
20-24 Nm
page 3-63
80-110 in-lbs
9.0-12.4 Nm
Crankcase cover screws
Cylinder head screws
Cylinder studs
See note
special pattern to tighten, page 3-46
special pattern to tighten, page 3-20
10 ft-lbs
13.6 Nm
Front isolator to
cylinder head bolt
73-78 ft-lbs
98.9-105.7
Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red), page 3-19
Front sprocket nut
150-165 ft-lbs
203-224 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red), page 3-63
Isolator bolt, front
100-110 ft-lbs
135.6-149.1
Nm
page 3-10
Isolator bolts, side
100-110 ft-lbs
135.6-149.1
Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red), page 3-10
8-12 ft-lbs
11-16 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue), page 3-37
5-7 ft-lbs
7-9 Nm
page 3-37
4-10 in-lbs
0.4-1.1 Nm
page 3-37
Oil pump cover screws
125-150
in-lbs
14.1-16.9 Nm
page 3-36
Oil pump mounting screws
125-150
in-lbs
14.1-16.9 Nm
page 3-36
Pinion shaft nut
35-45 ft-lbs
47-61 Nm
Rocker box bolts
10-13 ft-lbs
13.6-18 Nm
page 3-21
Rocker box cover screws
10-13 ft-lbs
13.6-18 Nm
page 3-21
90-120 in-lbs
10.2-13.6 Nm
page 3-21
Rocker box to head bolts
15-18 ft-lbs
20-24 Nm
2 sizes, page 3-21
Swingarm mount
block bolts, lower
68-75 ft-lbs
92.2-101.7
Nm
page 3-10
Swingarm mount
block bolts, upper
41-45 ft-lbs
55.6-61.0 Nm
page 3-10
Tappet plate screw
80-110 in-lbs
9.0-12.4 Nm
page 3-20, page 3-39
Tappet retainer screw
11-15 ft-lbs
20-24 Nm
page 3-20, page 3-39
Tie bar bolts
30-33 ft-lbs
40.7-44.7 Nm
Oil filter adapter
Oil pressure signal light switch
Oil pressure switch wire nut
Rocker box screws
3-4
install shoulder end down, page 3-63
LOCTITE THREAD-LOCKER 262 (red), page 3-46
front tie bar uses LOCITITE PST SEALANT, page 3-10
ENGINE
GENERAL
FUEL
The V2 EvolutionTM engine is a two-cylinder, four-cycle, aircooled, overhead-valve V-twin. It has three major component
assemblies.
Gasoline/alcohol Blends
Cylinder
The cylinder assembly includes cylinder head, valves, rocker
arm cover, rocker arms and piston. Cylinders mount on the
crankcase in a 45 degree “V” with both connecting rods connected to a single crank pin.
Crankcase
The up-and-down motion of the piston in the cylinder is converted to circular motion in the crankcase. The multi-piece
crankshaft consists of a crank pin mounted between two
counterweighted flywheels, which rotate on two end shaft
bearings. The lower end of the rear cylinder connecting rod is
forked to fit around the single-end front cylinder connecting
rod, allowing a single connecting rod crank pin connection to
the flywheel.
Gearcase
The gearcase is located on the right side of the crankcase.
The gearcase houses the gear train, which operates and
times the valves and ignition. The cam gear train, consisting
of four cam shafts with one cam lobe on each shaft, is gear
driven. The engine valves are opened and closed through the
mechanical linkage of tappets, push rods and rocker arms.
Hydraulic lifters, located in the tappets, automatically compensate for heat expansion to maintain the no-lash fit of valve
train components. Tappets serve to transmit the cam action to
the valve linkage. Valve timing is obtained by aligning timing
marks when installing cam gears.
Ignition spark is produced by the operation of a microprocessor-controlled electronic ignition module, ignition coil, and
spark plugs. Spark timing is determined by a trigger rotor,
magnetic sensing unit and vacuum-operated electric switch.
The trigger rotor has two openings which time the cylinders.
Both spark plugs fire simultaneously each crankshaft revolution. The spark plug in the front cylinder will fire at the end of
that cylinder’s compression stroke, igniting the air/fuel mixture
in the front cylinder. At the same instant, however, the spark
in the rear cylinder will fire ineffectually during the end of that
cylinder’s exhaust stroke. During the next engine revolution,
the simultaneous firing of the spark plugs will occur during the
middle of the front cylinder’s exhaust stroke and at the end of
the rear cylinder’s compression stroke (igniting the air/fuel
mixture in the rear cylinder).
Buell motorcycles were designed to obtain the best performance and efficiency using unleaded gasoline (91 pump
octane or higher). Some fuel suppliers sell gasoline/alcohol
blends as a fuel. The type and amount of alcohol added to the
fuel is important.
●
DO NOT USE GASOLINES CONTAINING METHANOL.
Using gasoline/methanol blends will result in starting and
driveability deterioration and damage to critical fuel system components.
●
ETHANOL is a mixture of 10% ethanol (Grain alcohol)
and 90% unleaded gasoline. Gasoline/ethanol blends
can be used in your motorcycle if the ethanol content
does not exceed 10%.
●
Gasolines containing ETHER: Gasoline/ether blends are
a mixture of gasoline and as much as 15% ether. Gasoline/ether blends can be used in your motorcycle if the
ether content does not exceed 17%.
●
REFORMULATED OR OXYGENATED GASOLINES
(RFG): “Reformulated gasoline” is a term used to
describe gasoline blends that are specifically designed to
burn cleaner than other types of gasoline, leaving fewer
“tailpipe” emissions. They are also formulated to evaporate less when you are filling your tank. Reformulated
gasolines use additives to “oxygenate” the gas. Your
motorcycle will run normally using this type of gas. Buell
recommends you use it when possible, as an aid to
cleaner air in our environment.
Because of their generally higher volatility, these blends may
adversely affect the starting, driveability and fuel efficiency of
your motorcycle. If you experience these problems, Buell recommends you operate your motorcycle on straight, unleaded
gasoline.
LUBRICATION
The engine has a force-feed (pressure) type oiling system,
incorporating oil feed and return pumps in one pump body,
with one check valve on the oil feed side. The feed pump
forces oil to the engine, lubricating lower connecting rod bearings, rocker arm bushings, valve stems, valve springs, push
rods and tappets. Cylinder walls, pistons, piston pins, timing
gears and bushings and main bearings are lubricated by oil
spray thrown off connecting rods and crankshaft, and by oil
draining from each rocker box through an internal drain passage in each cylinder and each tappet guide. A small amount
of oil is sprayed through an oil galley jet onto the rear intake
cam gear in the gearcase; oil is transferred to the teeth of all
the cam gears by way of the gear meshing action. The oilscavenging section of the pump returns oil to the tank from
the engine. See LUBRICATION SYSTEM on page 3-28 for
further information.
3-5
ADJUSTMENT/TESTING
Combustion chamber leakage can result in unsatisfactory
engine performance. A compression test can help determine
the source of cylinder leakage. Use CYLINDER COMPRESSION GAUGE (Part No. HD-33223-1).
General
When an engine needs repair, it is not always possible to
determine definitely beforehand whether repair is possible
with only cylinder heads, cylinders and pistons disassembled
or whether complete engine disassembly is required for
crankcase repair.
Most commonly, only cylinder head and cylinder repair is
needed (valves, rings, piston, etc.) and it is recommended
procedure to service these units first, allowing engine crankcase to remain in frame.
See DISASSEMBLING ENGINE FOR CYLINDER HEAD
REPAIR on page 3-8 to strip motorcycle for removal of cylinder heads, cylinders, and pistons.
After disassembling “upper end” only, it may be found that
crankcase repair is necessary. In this situation, remove the
engine crankcase from the chassis. See REMOVING ENGINE
CRANKCASE OR COMPLETE ENGINE on page 3-8.
1CAUTION
If engine is removed from chassis, do not lay engine on
primary side. Placing engine on primary side will damage
clutch cable end fitting. If fitting is damaged, clutch cable
must be replaced.
Symptoms indicating a need for engine repair are often misleading, but generally, if more than one symptom is present,
possible causes can be narrowed down to make at least a
partial diagnosis. An above-normal consumption of oil, for
example, could be caused by several mechanical faults. See
TROUBLESHOOTING in Section 1. However, when accompanied by blue-gray exhaust smoke and low engine compression, it indicates the piston rings need replacing. Low
compression by itself, however, may indicate improperly
seated valves, in addition to or in lieu of worn piston rings.
Most frequently, valves, rings, pins, bushings, and bearings
need attention at about the same time. If the possible causes
can be narrowed down through the process of elimination to
indicate any one of the above components is worn, it is best
to give attention to all of the cylinder head and cylinder parts.
3-6
Compression Test Procedure
A proper compression test should be performed with the
engine at normal operating temperature when possible. Proceed as follows:
1CAUTION
After completing the compression test(s), make sure that
the throttle plate is in the closed position before starting
engine. Engine will start at an extremely high RPM if
throttle plate is left open.
1.
Disconnect spark plug wires. Clean around plug base
and remove plugs.
2.
Connect compression tester to front cylinder.
3.
With carburetor throttle plates in wide open position,
crank engine continuously through 5-7 full compression
strokes.
4.
Note gauge readings at the end of the first and last compression strokes. Record test results.
5.
Connect compression tester to rear cylinder.
6.
Repeat Steps 3 and 4 on rear cylinder.
7.
Compression is normal if final readings are 120 psi
(8.4 kgN/cm2) or more and do not indicate more than a
10 psi (0.7 kgN/cm2) variance between cylinders. See
Table 3-1.
8.
Inject approximately 1/2 oz. (15 ml) of SAE 30 oil into
each cylinder and repeat the compression tests on both
cylinders. Readings that are considerably higher during
the second test indicate worn piston rings.
Table 3-1. Compression Test Results
DIAGNOSIS
TEST RESULTS
Ring trouble.
Compression low on first stroke;
tends to build up on the following
strokes but does not reach normal;
improves considerably when oil is
added to cylinder.
Valve trouble.
Compression low on first stroke;
does not build up much on following strokes; does not improve considerably with the addition of oil.
Head gasket leak.
Same reaction as valve trouble.
Cylinder Leakage Test
The cylinder leakage test pinpoints engine problems including
leaking valves, worn, broken or stuck piston rings and blown
head gaskets. The cylinder leakage tester applies compressed air to the cylinder at a controlled pressure and volume, and measures the percent of leakage from the cylinder.
Table 3-2. Air Leakage Test
AIR LEAK LOCATION
POSSIBLE CAUSES
Carburetor intake.
Intake valve leaking.
Exhaust pipe.
Exhaust valve leaking.
Use a CYLINDER LEAKDOWN TESTER (Part No. HD35667) and follow the specific instructions supplied with the
tester.
Timing inspection hole.
Piston rings leaking.
Worn or broken piston.
Worn cylinder.
The following are some general instructions that apply to
Buell motorcycle engines:
Head gasket.
Leaking gasket.
1.
Run engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
2.
Stop engine. Clean dirt from around spark plugs and
remove spark plugs.
3.
Remove air cleaner and set carburetor throttle in wide
open position.
4.
Remove timing inspection plug from crankcase.
5.
The piston, in cylinder being tested, must be at top dead
center of compression stroke during test.
6.
To keep engine from turning over when air pressure is
applied to cylinder, engage transmission in fifth gear and
lock the rear brake.
7.
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, perform a cylinder leakage test on the front cylinder. Make a note of
the percent leakdown. Any cylinder with 12% leakdown,
or more, requires further attention.
8.
Listen for air leaks at carburetor intake, exhaust, head
gasket and timing inspection hole. See Table 3-2.
Diagnosing Smoking Engine or High Oil
Consumption
Perform Compression or Cylinder Leakdown Test as
described previously. If further testing is needed, remove suspect head(s) and inspect the following:
●
●
●
●
Valve guide seals.
Valve guide-to-valve stem clearance.
Gasket surface of both head and cylinder.
Oil return passages for clogging.
NOTE
If air is escaping through valves, check push rod length.
9.
Repeat procedure on rear cylinder.
1CAUTION
After completing the compression test(s), make sure that
the throttle plate is in the closed position before starting
engine. Engine will start at an extremely high RPM if
throttle plate is left open.
3-7
STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR ENGINE REPAIR
DISASSEMBLING ENGINE FOR
CYLINDER HEAD REPAIR
1.
5673
Lift and secure the motorcycle.
a.
Place vehicle on a lift and anchor front wheel in
place. Raise lift so the top of the cylinder head is
easy to access.
b.
Raise rear wheel off lift using REAR WHEEL SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41174).
Attach straps
to frame
Floor hoist
1WARNING
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding. Always disconnect the negative cable first. If
the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when loosening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
Figure 3-1. Floor Hoist
8.
Drain oil tank and remove oil filter. See ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM in Section 1.
9.
Disconnect wire to oil pressure signal light switch. See
OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL LIGHT SWITCH on page 3-31.
2.
Disconnect both battery cables, negative cable first.
3.
Remove seat and fuel tank. See FUEL TANK in Section 4.
4.
Remove air cleaner assembly. See AIR CLEANER,
REMOVAL in Section 4.
10. Detach feed, vent and return hoses from oil tank. See
OIL TANK on page 3-30.
5.
Remove exhaust header. See EXHAUST SYSTEM in
Section 2.
11. Remove both rider footrests from frame. See FOOTRESTS in Section 2.
6.
Remove carburetor and manifold. See CARBURETOR,
REMOVAL in Section 4.
12. Remove rear shock mounting bolt (metric) from swingarm. Allow rear shock to hang from front mount.
7.
If removing front cylinder, remove ignition coil and horn.
See IGNITION COIL in Section 7.
13. Disconnect wiring. See Section 7.
8.
Disconnect spark plug cables.
NOTE
At this stage, the lower rocker boxes, the cylinder heads and
the cylinders may be removed. See CYLINDER HEAD on
page 3-11.
REMOVING ENGINE CRANKCASE
OR COMPLETE ENGINE
1.
Perform the steps listed above.
2.
Remove tail section. See TAIL SECTION, REMOVAL in
Section 2.
3.
See Figure 3-1. Place a floor hoist behind the lift. Attach
straps to frame and hoist. Raise hoist until straps tighten.
4.
Detach clutch cable from handgrip.
5.
Remove REAR FENDER/LOWER BELT GUARD and
SPROCKET COVER. See Section 2.
6.
Remove rear caliper. See REAR BRAKE CALIPER in
Section 2.
7.
Detach belt from rear sprocket and remove rear wheel.
See REAR WHEEL in Section 2.
3-8
a.
Disconnect neutral switch wire from crankcase.
b.
Unplug ignition timer plate wires from wiring harness.
c.
Disconnect 18-gauge green wire from starter motor.
d.
Disconnect regulator/rectifier from the alternator stator at the plug near the regulator. See VOLTAGE
REGULATOR in Section 7.
e.
Disconnect V.O.E.S. wire from ignition module.
14. Remove muffler. See EXHAUST SYSTEM in Section 2.
15. See Figure 3-2. Place a wooden cradle underneath the
crankcase.
16. Place a crating strap between the engine cylinders and
around the lift. Tighten crating strap until snug.
17. See Figure 3-3. Remove engine ground strap (1) from
swingarm mount block.
18. Detach tie bars from frame mounts.
a.
Remove rear tie bar using a swivel socket.
b.
See Figure 3-4. Remove front tie bar (1) and clutch
cable clamp.
19. Remove front isolator bolt (6), nut (9), D-washer (8) and
washers (7).
b0202x3x
b0251x3x
2
1
1.
2.
3.
3
Crating
strap
4.
4
6 5
7
5.
6.
7.
Ground strap
Rear isolator
Swingarm mount
block bolts
(2, upper)
Swingarm mount
block bolts
(2, lower)
Rubber isolator (2)
Lockwashers (2)
Isolator bolts (2)
Figure 3-3. Rear Tie Bar Assembly
Figure 3-2. Supporting the Engine
20. See Figure 3-3. Remove isolator bolt (7) and lockwasher
(6) on each side.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
9
8
21. Slowly raise floor hoist until rubber isolators (5) can be
removed. Frame will rise while engine remains secured
to lift by crating strap.
7
Front tie bar
Spacer
Washer
Lockwasher
Tie bar bolt
Front isolator bolt
Washer (2)
D-washer
Nut
NOTE
Rubber isolators align with a frame mounted metal pin.
22. Raise frame and walk forward over and away from the
engine.
23. If necessary, remove rear swingarm. See SWINGARM in
Section 2.
24. If necessary, detach swingarm mount block from powertrain by removing bolts (3, 4), washers and locknuts.
1
2
3
4
b0201x3x
5
7
6
Figure 3-4. Front Tie Bar Assembly
3-9
INSTALLING THE ENGINE
ENGINE CRANKCASE INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 3-2. Place engine crankcase on supports so
frame may be installed over the top of the engine.
2.
See Figure 3-3. If removed, attach swingarm mount block
to engine. Install upper bolts (3), washers and locknuts
finger tight. Install lower bolts (4), washers and locknuts
finger tight. Tighten upper bolts to 41-45 ft-lbs (55.6-61.0
Nm) and lower bolts to 68-75 ft-lbs (92.2-101.7 Nm).
3.
19. Attach disconnected wires. See Section 7.
If removed, install swingarm. Adjust swingarm bearing
preload. See SWINGARM in Section 2.
4.
Remove oil filter (if installed). Walk frame over powertrain.
5.
See Figure 3-4. Install front isolator bolt. Attach front isolator mount with bolt (6), washers (7), D-washer (8) and
locknut (9). Tighten bolt finger tight.
1CAUTION
Isolator bolts must be tightened within 30 minutes of
applying LOCTITE THREADLOCKER. Failure to tighten
bolts within 30 minutes may cause LOCTITE to set.
6.
18. Install rear brake caliper. See REAR BRAKE CALIPER in
Section 2.
See Figure 3-3. Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262
(red) to side isolator bolts (7). Align pins on frame into
holes in rubber isolators. Install bolts (7) and lockwashers (6) finger tight.
a.
Connect 18-gauge green wire to starter motor.
b.
Plug ignition switch assembly into main harness
plug.
c.
Plug regulator/rectifier into stator connection.
d.
Attach ignition sensor to wire harness.
e.
Connect V.O.E.S. to ignition module.
f.
Connect neutral switch.
g.
Connect oil pressure switch wire.
20. Install REAR FENDER/LOWER BELT GUARD and
SPROCKET COVER. See Section 2.
21. Install footrests. See FOOTRESTS in Section 2.
22. Continue with the steps listed below.
ENGINE INSTALLATION AFTER
CYLINDER HEAD REPAIR
1.
Install new oil filter, engine oil, and primary chaincase
lubricant as necessary. See Section 1.
1CAUTION
Do not adjust tie bar assemblies. Tie bar tension is set at
the factory. Any attempt at adjusting tension will cause
damage to tie bars. Damaged tie bars must be replaced.
2.
Install carburetor with intake manifold. See CARBURETOR, INSTALLATION in Section 4.
3.
Install exhaust system as described under EXHAUST
SYSTEM in Section 2.
7.
4.
Install air cleaner assembly. See AIR CLEANER,
INSTALLATION in Section 4.
5.
If removed, install horn and ignition coil. See Section 7.
6.
Connect spark plug cables. See SPARK PLUG CABLES
in Section 7.
8.
9.
See Figure 3-3. Attach rear tie bar assembly (2). Install
bolt, lockwasher, and washer on swingarm mount block.
Install bolt and locknut on frame. Tighten bolts to 30-33
ft-lbs (40.7-44.7 Nm).
Attach top center tie bar assembly. Install bolt, washer,
front tie bar spacer and locknut on ignition mount. Install
bolt and locknut on frame. Tighten bolts to 30-33 ft-lbs
(40.7-44.7 Nm).
See Figure 3-4. Attach front tie bar assembly to engine.
Install bolt (5), lockwasher (4), washer (3) and front tie
bar spacer (2).
10. See Figure 3-3. Tighten the two side isolator bolts (7) to
100-110 ft-lbs (135.6-149.1 Nm).
11. See Figure 3-4. Tighten front isolator bolt (6) to 100-110
ft-lbs (135.6-149.1 Nm).
1WARNING
Always connect positive battery cable first. If the positive
cable should contact ground with the negative cable
installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when tightening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
7.
Install battery. Connect battery cables, positive first.
12. Connect feed, return and vent lines to oil tank. See OIL
HOSE ROUTING on page 3-29. Use new hose clamps.
8.
Install tail section, fuel tank and seat. See TAIL SECTION in Section 2.
13. Attach battery ground strap to swingarm mount block.
9.
If engine crankcase installation was performed:
14. Attach clutch cable to handlebar lever.
a.
15. Remove strap from between engine cylinders. Using a
floor hoist, lift motorcycle by the frame and remove the
wooden cradle from underneath the crankcase.
Adjust belt according to REAR BELT DEFLECTION
in Section 1.
b.
Adjust rear shock spring preload. See REAR PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT in Section 1.
16. Install rear shock. See REAR SHOCK ABSORBER,
INSTALLATION in Section 2. Remove floor hoist straps.
17. Install rear wheel and attach secondary drive belt. See
REAR WHEEL, INSTALLATION in Section 2.
3-10
c.
Adjust clutch lever. See CLUTCH in Section 1.
d.
Check rear brake pedal freeplay. See BRAKES in
Section 1.
10. Check all electrical components for proper operation.
CYLINDER HEAD
Before removing the cylinder head assembly, see DISASSEMBLING ENGINE FOR CYLINDER HEAD REPAIR on
page 3-8. The rocker arm covers and internal components
must be removed before removing cylinder heads.
1CAUTION
All washers and fasteners used in the V2TM engine are
hardened. Do not mix or replace hardened washers and
fasteners with unhardened parts. Do not reuse fiber
cover seals. These actions may result in accelerated wear
and increased noise.
1.
2.
REMOVAL
See Figure 3-5. Remove screws (1) and fiber seals (2).
Discard fiber seals.
Remove top (4) and middle (5) sections of rocker box.
Remove and discard gaskets (6, 7 and 8).
xlhrock
1
2
4
3
6
5
7
12
19
8
10
14
13
11
18
9
15
17
16
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
Screws (4)
Fiber seal (4)
Umbrella Valve (2)
Upper rocker cover
Middle rocker cover
Gasket
Gasket
Gasket
Rocker arm shafts
Rocker arm
Rocker arm
Bolt and washer (2)
Bolt and washer (2)
Screw and washer (2)
Bolt and washer (3)
Gasket
Gasket
Lower rocker arm cover
Rocker arm bushing (8)
Figure 3-5. Rocker Arm Cover
3-11
3.
Rotate crankshaft until both valves are closed on head
being repaired.
4.
Remove two 5/16 in. rocker arm retaining bolts (12) at
push rod end.
5.
Remove remaining fasteners and washers (13, 14 and
15) holding lower rocker arm cover to cylinder head.
6.
Remove lower rocker cover (18).
5698
Position of rocker
arm retaining bolts
NOTE
Retaining notch
Remove lower rocker boxes as an assembly; then disassemble as required.
1CAUTION
Mark rocker arm shafts for reassembly in their original
positions. Valve train components must be reinstalled in
their original positions to prevent accelerated wear and
increased valve train noise.
7.
8.
See Figure 3-6. Remove rocker arm shafts by tapping
them out using a hammer and a soft metal punch.
Figure 3-6. Removing Rocker Arm Shafts
5740
See Figure 3-5. Remove rocker arms (10, 11); mark
them for reassembly in their original locations.
1CAUTION
Distortion to the head, cylinder and crankcase studs may
result if head screws are not loosened (or tightened)
gradually in the sequence shown in Figure 3-8.
9.
See Figure 3-8. Loosen each head screw 1/8-turn following the sequence shown.
1CAUTION
See Figure 3-7. Do not attempt to remove the front isolator mount from front cylinder head. Isolator mount is an
integral component and is not meant to be removed
unless absolutely necessary. Repeated removals and
installations will damage cylinder head threads.
5112
Figure 3-7. Front Isolator Mount Warning
2857a
1
1
3
2
2
4
4
Front cylinder
Figure 3-8. Head Screw Loosening/Tightening Sequence
3-12
3
Rear cylinder
.
xlhcylhead
7
8
5
6
11
9
1
7
8
16
5
6
5
11
9
16
2
17
18
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
10
Head screw, long (2)
Head screw, short (2)
Arrow, piston direction
Head gasket
Inner valve spring (2)
Outer valve spring (2)
Valve keeper (4)
Upper collar (2)
Lower collar (2)
Valve (1 intake, 1 exhaust)
Valve stem seal (2)
Stud (4)
Base gasket
O-ring (2)
Insert/Dowel (2)
Valve guide (2)
Valve seat (2)
Cylinder head
Cylinder
Piston
17
4
10
14
12
15
3
19
20
13
Figure 3-9. Cylinder Head, Cylinder and Piston
10. Support motorcycle under front header mount. Do not
allow engine to drop when performing Step 11.
DISASSEMBLY
11. Continue loosening in 1/8-turn increments until screws
are loose. Remove screws and thick washers.
NOTE
Disassembly of front cylinder exhaust valve components
requires front isolator mount removal.
12. See Figure 3-9. Remove cylinder head (18), head gasket
(4), and O-rings (14).
NOTE
Front cylinder must be removed through upper triangular
frame members with front isolator mount attached.
13. See Figure 3-10. Remove socket screws (11), washers
(13), and retainers (9). Remove push rod covers (7),
seals (8), O-rings (10) and push rods (12). Mark the location and orientation (top and bottom) of each push rod.
14. Remove socket screw (5), washer (14) and plate (4).
Remove O-rings (3) from ends of pins (2). Grasp pins (2)
and pull from crankcase. Use a pliers if necessary.
Remove lifter from crankcase bore.
15. Repeat Steps 1-13 for the other head.
1.
See Figure 3-9. Compress valve springs (5, 6) with
VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR (Part No. HD-34736B)
(as shown in Figure 3-11.)
2.
Remove keepers (7), upper collar (8) and springs (5, 6).
Mark keepers for reassembly in original position.
3.
Use a fine tooth file to remove any burrs on the valve
stem at the keeper groove.
4.
Mark valve to ensure that it will be reassembled in the
same head. Remove valve (10), valve stem seal (11) and
lower collar (9).
5.
Repeat Steps 1-5 for the other valve.
6.
Disassemble the other head following Steps 1-6.
3-13
b0134x3x
5694
8
7
12
10
6
1
11
Valve Spring Compressor
(Part No. HD-34736B)
13
Figure 3-11. Compressing Valve Springs
9
4
2767a
15
14
5
2
3
1.
Right
crankcase half
Pin (2)
O-ring (2)
Plate
Screw
Tappet lifter (2)
Push rod cover (2)
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Seal (2)
Retainer (2)
O-ring (2)
Screw (2)
Push rod (2)
Washer (2)
Washer
Locating pin (2)
Figure 3-10. Middle Valve Train Components
(Quantities per Engine Cylinder)
CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
1.
Bead blast or scrape carbon from head, top of cylinder
and valve ports. Be careful to avoid scratching or nicking
cylinder head and cylinder joint faces. Blow off loosened
carbon or dirt with compressed air.
2.
Soak cylinder head in an aluminum-compatible cleaner/
solvent to loosen carbon deposits.
3.
Wash all parts in non-flammable solvent, followed by a
thorough washing with hot, soapy water. Blow out oil passages in head. Be sure they are free of sludge and carbon particles. Remove loosened carbon from valve head
and stem using a wire wheel. Never use a file or other
hardened tool which could scratch or nick valve. Polish
valve stem with very fine emery cloth or steel wool.
4.
Check each rocker arm, at pad end and push rod end, for
uneven wear or pitting. Replace rocker arm if either condition exists.
3-14
Figure 3-12. Measuring Rocker Arm Shaft Diameter
(Rocker Cover Position)
5.
See Figure 3-12 and Figure 3-13. Measure rocker arm
shaft diameter at the positions where shaft fits in lower
rocker arm cover and where rocker arm bushings ride.
Record the measurements.
6.
See Figure 3-14 and Figure 3-15. Measure rocker arm
shaft bore diameter in lower rocker cover and rocker arm
bushing inner diameter. Record the measurements.
7.
Check the clearances and measurements obtained in
Steps 5 and 6 against the SERVICE WEAR LIMITS.
Repair or replace parts exceeding the SERVICE WEAR
LIMITS.
8.
Assemble rocker arms and rocker arm shafts into lower
rocker cover.
2768a
2770a
Figure 3-13. Measuring Rocker Arm Shaft Diameter
(Rocker Arm Bushing Position)
Figure 3-15. Measuring Rocker Arm Bushing
Inner Diameter
5699
diameter and valve guide inner diameter. Check measurements against SERVICE WEAR LIMITS.
15. Inspect spark plug threads for damage. If threads in head
are damaged, a special plug type insert can be installed
using a 12 mm spark plug repair kit.
16. Inspect valve springs for broken or discolored coils.
17. See Figure 3-16. Check free length and compression
force of each spring. Compare with SPECIFICATIONS. If
spring length is shorter than specification, or if spring
compression force is below specification, replace spring.
Figure 3-14. Measuring Rocker Arm Shaft Bore
Diameter in Lower Rocker Cover
9.
Check end play of rocker arm with feeler gauge.
10. Replace rocker arm or lower cover or both if end play
exceeds 0.025 in. (0.63 mm).
11. Valve heads should have a seating surface width of
0.040-0.062 in. (1.02-1.57 mm), and should be free of pit
marks and burn spots. The color of carbon on exhaust
valves should be black or dark brown. White or light buff
carbon indicates excessive heat and burning.
12. Valve seats are also subject to wear, pitting, and burning.
They should be resurfaced whenever valves are refinished.
13. Clean valve guides by lightly honing with VALVE GUIDE
HONE (Part No. HD-34723).
14. Scrub guides with VALVE GUIDE BRUSH (Part No. HD34751) and hot soapy water. Measure valve stem outer
18. Examine push rods, particularly the ball ends. Replace
any rods that are bent, worn, discolored, or broken.
19. See Figure 3-17. Check head gasket surface on head for
flatness. Machine or replace any head which exceeds
SERVICE WEAR LIMIT of 0.006 in. (0.15 mm).
Rocker Arms and Bushings
1.
See Figure 3-18. To replace worn bushings, press or
drive them from the rocker arm. If bushing is difficult to
remove, turn a 9/16-18 tap into bushing. From opposite
side of rocker arm, press out bushing and tap.
2.
Press replacement bushing into rocker arm, flush with
arm end, and split portion of bushing towards top of arm.
3.
Using remaining old bushing as a pilot, line ream new
bushing with ROCKER ARM BUSHING REAMER (Part
No. HD-94804-57).
4.
Repeat for other end of rocker arm.
3-15
2771a
2411a
9/16 in. -18 tap
Figure 3-16. Checking Spring Free Length
5700
Gasket surface flat
within 0.006 in. (0.15 mm)
Figure 3-18. Removing Rocker Arm Bushing
3.
Measure outer diameter of a new standard valve guide.
The guide diameter should be 0.0020-0.0033 in. (0.0510.084 mm). larger than bore in head. If it is not, select
one of the following oversizes: +0.001 in., +0.002 in., or
+0.003 in. (+0.025, +0.05 +0.08 mm) (intake and
exhaust).
4.
See Figure 3-19. Install shoulderless guides using
VALVE GUIDE INSTALLATION TOOL (Part No. HD34731) and DRIVER HANDLE (Part No. HD-34740).
Press or drive guide until the tool touches the machined
surface surrounding the guide. At this point, the correct
guide height has been reached.
5.
Ream guides to final size or within 0.0010 in. (0.025 mm)
of final size using VALVE GUIDE REAMER (Steel, Part
No. HD-39932 or Carbide, Part No. HD-39932-CAR).
Use REAMER LUBRICANT (Part No. HD-39964) or liberal amounts of suitable cutting oil to prevent reamer
chatter.
6.
See Figure 3-20. Apply the proper surface finish to the
valve guide bores using the VALVE GUIDE HONE (Part
No. HD-34723). Lubricate hone with honing oil. Driving
hone with an electric drill, work for a crosshatch pattern
with an angle of approximately 60°.
Figure 3-17. Checking Gasket Surface
Replacing Valve Guides
Valve guide replacement, if necessary, must be done before
valve seat is ground. It is the valve stem hole in valve guide
that determines seat grinding location. Valve stem-to-valve
guide clearances are listed in Table 3-3. If valve stems and/or
guides are worn beyond service wear limits, install new parts.
Table 3-3. Valve Stem Clearances
and Service Wear Limits
VALVE
CLEARANCE
SERVICE WEAR
LIMIT
Exhaust
0.0015-0.0033 in.
0.0040 in.
Intake
0.008-0.0026 in.
0.0035 in.
1.
To remove shoulderless guides, press or tap guides
toward combustion chamber using DRIVER HANDLE
AND REMOVER (Part No. HD-34740).
2.
Clean and measure valve guide bore in head.
3-16
NOTE
The hone is not intended to remove material.
7.
Thoroughly clean valve guide bores using VALVE GUIDE
BRUSH (Part No. HD-34751) and hot soapy water.
5692
5695
Driver Handle
(Part No. HD-34740)
Valve Guide Brush
(Part No. HD-34751)
Valve Guide Installation
Tool (Part No. HD-34741)
Cylinder Head Holding
Fixture (Part No. HD-39786)
Figure 3-20. Honing Valve Guides
b0169x3x
Cylinder Head Stand
(Part No. HD-39782)
Head
Seat
60°
Figure 3-19. Installing Shoulderless Valve Guide
Grinding Valve Faces and Seats
0.040-0.062 in.
(1.02-1.57 mm)
Valve
After installing valve guides, valve seats must be refaced to
make them concentric with guides.
31°
Valve face angle is 45° for both intake and exhaust valves. If a
valve refacing grinder is used, it must be adjusted exactly to
this angle. It is important to remove no more metal than is
necessary to clean up and true valve face. Install a new valve
if grinding leaves the valve edge (the margin) with a width of
less than 1/32 in. (0.8 mm). A valve with too thin a margin
does not seat normally, burns easily, may cause pre-ignition
and can also lead to valve cracking. Valves that do not clean
up quickly are probably warped or too deeply pitted to be
reused. Replace the valve if end of valve stem shows uneven
wear. After valves have been ground, handle with care to prevent damage to the ground faces.
The valve seats may be refinished with cutters or grinders.
Cut seats to a 46° angle or grind seats to a 45° angle. Valve
seat tools and fixtures are available commercially. Seat each
valve in the same position from which it was removed.
The correct 3-angle valve seat angles are shown in Figure 321. Use a NEWAY VALVE SEAT CUTTER (Part No. 444-HDF;
part of NEWAY VALVE SEAT CUTTER SET, Part No. HD35758) to cut the seats. Always grind valves before cutting
seats.
1.
Cut 46° (or grind 45°) valve seat angle first. Use cutting
oil to avoid chatter marks. Cut or grind only enough to
clean up the seat.
46° Cutting
45° Grinding
Margin
Figure 3-21. Valve Seat Angles
2.
Apply a small amount of lapping compound to the valve
face. Rotate valve against seat using VALVE LAPPING
TOOL (Part No. HD-96550-36A).
3.
See Figure 3-21. Check the contact pattern on valve
face. It should be 0.040-0.062 in. (1.02-1.57 mm) wide,
and its center should be positioned 2/3 of the way toward
the outside edge of face.
4.
If valve seat pattern is too close to the stem side of valve
face, cut 60° angle in order to raise seat. If pattern is too
close to the edge of valve face, cut 31° angle in order to
lower seat.
5.
After cutting either or both 31° or 60° angles to position
seat, final cut 46° (or grind 45°) seat angle to obtain
proper 0.040-0.062 in. (1.02-1.57 mm) width.
6.
Recheck valve seat width and location with lapping compound as described in Step 2.
7.
To achieve a smooth even finish, place a piece of 280 grit
emery paper under the cutter head and rotate cutter.
3-17
1CAUTION
Do not grind valve to shorten. Grinding will remove the
case hardening and expose the stem’s mild steel core
resulting in rapid end wear.
8.
See Figure 3-22. Wipe valve seats and valve faces clean.
Measure valve stem protrusion. If valve stem protrudes
more than 2.034 in. (51.66 mm), replace valve seat or
cylinder head. If valve stem protrusion is within the
acceptable range, valves and seats are ready for lapping.
5696
Valve stem must not protrude
more than 2.034 in. (51.66 mm)
Replacing Valve Seats
Replacing a valve seat is a complex operation requiring special equipment. If the seat is loose or is not fully seated in the
head, then seat movement will prevent the proper transfer of
heat from the valve. The seat surface must be flush with (or
below) the head surface. See SPECIFICATIONS for valve
seat-to-cylinder head fit.
To remove the old seat, lay a bead of weld material around
the inside diameter of the seat. This will shrink the seat outside diameter and provide a surface for driving the seat out
the port side.
Lapping Valve Faces and Seats
Figure 3-22. Measuring Valve Stem Protrusion
NOTE
If valve faces and seats have been smoothly and accurately
refaced, very little lapping will be required to complete the
seating operation.
1.
See Figure 3-23. Apply a light coat of fine lapping compound to valve face. Insert valve in guide. Position one
rubber cup end of VALVE LAPPING TOOL (Part No. HD96550-36A) onto head of valve. Holding lapping tool as
shown, apply only very light pressure against valve head,
and rotate lapping tool and valve alternately clockwise
and counterclockwise a few times.
2.
Lift valve and rotate it about 1/3 of a turn clockwise.
Repeat lapping procedure in Step 1.
3.
Repeat Step 2. Then, remove valve.
4.
Wash valve face and seat; dry with a new, clean cloth or
towel.
5.
If inspection shows an unbroken lapped finish of uniform
width around both valve and seat, valve is well seated. If
lapped finish is not complete, further lapping (or grinding
and lapping) is necessary.
3-18
5118
Valve Lapping Tool
(Part No. HD-96550-36A)
Cylinder Head Holding
Fixture (Part No. HD-39786)
Figure 3-23. Lapping Valves
ASSEMBLY
b0172x3x
1CAUTION
2
Make sure all lapping compound is removed from cylinder head and valves after lapping is completed. If lapping
compound contaminates any internal engine components or engine oil, excessive engine wear and damage
may result.
1.
Wash cylinder head and valves in warm, soapy water to
remove all lapping compound.
2.
Scrub valve guide bores with VALVE GUIDE BRUSH
(Part No. HD-34751) and hot, soapy water.
3.
Blow dry with compressed air.
4.
Apply a liberal amount of engine oil to the valve stem.
5.
See Figure 3-24. Insert valve into guide and install lower
collar (4).
6.
1
3
4
5
See Figure 3-25. Place a protective sleeve over the valve
stem keeper groove. Coat the sleeve with oil and place a
new seal over the valve stem.
1CAUTION
●
Always use a protective sleeve on the valve stem
keeper groove when installing valve stem seal. If the
seal is installed without using the protective sleeve,
the seal will be damaged.
●
Do not remove valve after seal is installed. Otherwise, sharp edges on keeper groove will damage
seal.
7.
See Figure 3-24. Tap the seal onto the guide using the
VALVE SEAL INSTALLATION TOOL (Part No. HD34643A) and DRIVER HANDLE (Part No. HD-34740).
The seal is completely installed when the tool touches
the lower collar (4).
8.
9.
See Figure 3-9. Install valve springs (5, 6) and upper collar (8).
1.
Valve seal
installation tool
Driver handle
2.
3.
4.
5.
Valve stem seal
Lower collar
Valve guide
Figure 3-24. Valve Seal Installation
5686
Protective sleeve
Compress springs with VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR
(Part No. HD-34736B).
10. Insert keepers (7) into upper collar (8), making sure they
engage groove in valve stem. The keeper gaps should be
equal.
11. Release and remove VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR.
12. Repeat Steps 4-11 for the remaining valve(s).
NOTE
If front isolator mount was removed from front cylinder, reinstall in the following manner.
Figure 3-25. Valve Guide Seal Protector Sleeve
13. Coat new bolts with LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262
(red). Tighten bolts to 73-78 ft-lbs (98.9-105.7 Nm).
3-19
INSTALLATION
If only cylinder head work was needed, reinstall cylinder head
following these instructions. If further repair is required, see
CYLINDER AND PISTON on page 3-22.
1.
See Figure 3-9. Coat mating surfaces of cylinder studs
(12) and head screws (1, 2) with parts cleaning solution.
2.
Scrape old oil and any carbon deposits from threads by
using a back-and-forth motion, threading each head
screw onto its mating cylinder stud.
3.
Remove head screws from studs. Wipe or blow dry
thread surfaces.
4.
Apply oil to stud threads and to the underside of the head
screw shoulder.
1CAUTION
Only oil film must remain on the head screw surfaces.
Too much oil will pool in the head screw sleeve. Pooled
oil may prevent proper torque application and full thread
engagement.
5.
Blow or wipe off excess oil from head screws.
6.
Thoroughly clean and dry the gasket surfaces of cylinder
(19) and cylinder head (18).
7.
Install a new O-ring (14) on each dowel (15).
1CAUTION
O-rings (14) help to properly position the head gasket (4).
O-rings must be installed before the head gasket.
8.
Install a new head gasket (4) to cylinder.
9.
Carefully lower cylinder head over studs and position on
dowels. Use great care so as not to disturb head gasket.
10. Install head screws (1, 2) finger tight.
1CAUTION
The procedure for tightening the head screws is critical
to proper distribution of pressure over gasket area. It prevents gasket leaks, stud failure, and head and cylinder
distortion.
11. See Figure 3-8. For each cylinder head, start with screw
numbered one, as shown. In increasing numerical
sequence (i.e. – 1, 2, 3 and 4), tighten head screws in
three stages:
FIRST STAGE:
Tighten each screw to 7-9 ft-lbs
(9-12 Nm).
SECOND STAGE:
Tighten each screw to 12-14 ft-lbs
(16-19 Nm).
THIRD STAGE:
See Figure 3-26. Mark cylinder head
and head screw shoulder with a line as
shown (View A). Tighten each screw a
1/4-turn (90°) (View B).
12. See Figure 3-10. Rotate engine so that both tappets (6),
from the cylinder being serviced, will be installed on the
base circle (lowest position) of the cam.
3-20
b0094x3x
View
A
View
B
Tighten head screws 1/4-turn in
the third stage of installation
Figure 3-26. Tightening Head Screws
13. Apply a liberal amount of engine oil to tappet assembly
(especially roller needles) for smooth initial operation.
14. Insert tappet (6) into bore in crankcase (1). Rotate tappet
so that flats at upper end of tappet face the front and rear
of the engine. If the tappet is installed incorrectly, pins (2)
cannot be inserted.
15. Insert pins (2) in the holes in crankcase. Place new Orings (3) over ends of pins. Install plate (4) using screw
(5) with washer (14). Tighten screw (5) to 80-110 in-lbs.
(9.0-12.4 Nm).
16. Slide new seal (8), and place retainer (9), over top of
push rod cover (7). Position new O-ring (10) at top of
push rod cover. Hold cover at an angle and insert top
through hole in cylinder head. Push up on cover while
aligning bottom of cover with tappet bore in crankcase.
Lower retainer (9) with seal (8) onto crankcase, aligning
locating pin (15) with hole in retainer.
17. Insert screw (11) with washer (13) through hole in
retainer (9), and thread into tapped hole in crankcase.
Tighten screw (11) to 15-18 ft-lbs (20-24 Nm).
18. Identify push rod color coding, length and respective push
rod positions in engine. See Table 3-4. Place intake and
exhaust push rods (1, 2) onto seat at top of tappet (6).
Table 3-4. Push Rod Selection Table
POSITION
Exhaust (Front & Rear)
Intake (Front & Rear)
COLOR CODE,
PART NUMBER,
LENGTH
3 Band - Pink,
17904-89,
10.800 in.
1 Band - Brown,
17897-89,
10.746 in.
19. See Figure 3-5. Install new gaskets (16, 17) with the
bead facing up. Place lower rocker box assembly (with
rocker arms and shafts) into position. Place push rods in
rocker arm sockets.
1CAUTION
Do not turn engine over until both push rods can be
turned with fingers. Otherwise, damage to push rods or
rocker arms may result.
20. See Figure 3-5. Install fasteners (12, 13, 14 and 15).
Slowly snug all fasteners in small increments (one turn at
a time). Use a cross pattern on the four large bolts (12,
13) that fasten the lower rocker box to head. This will
bleed the lifters. Tighten screws (14) to 90-120 in-lbs
(10.2-13.6 Nm). Tighten bolts (15) to 10-13 ft-lbs (13.618 Nm). Tighten bolts (12, 13) to 15-18 ft-lbs (20-24 Nm).
See Table 3-5.
NOTES
Tubular frame prohibits direct access to bolt (12) on right rear
cylinder. Use TORQUE ADAPTOR (SNAP-ON Part No.
FRDH 181) and TORQUE COMPUTER (Part No. SS-306G)
to correctly assemble.
21. Place new gasket (7), middle rocker cover (5), (with
breather valve on intake side) new gasket (6) and upper
rocker cover (4) on lower rocker box. Install screws (1)
with new fiber seals (2). Tighten screws (1) to 10-13 ftlbs (14-18 Nm).
Repeat above procedures for other cylinder.
Table 3-5. Rocker Arm Cover Hardware
ITEM
(NUMBER)
QTY
SIZE
TORQUE
Bolt (12)
2
5/16-18 X 2-3/4
Bolt (13)
2
5/16-18 X 2-1/2
15-18 ft-lbs
(20-24 Nm)
2
1/4-20 X 1-1/2
90-120 in-lbs
(10.2-13.6 Nm)
3
1/4-20 X 1-1/4
10-13 ft-lbs
(14-18 Nm)
Screw (14)
Bolt (15)
3-21
3
CYLINDER AND PISTON
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
1.
Strip motorcycle as described under DISASSEMBLING
ENGINE FOR CYLINDER HEAD REPAIR on page 3-8.
2.
Remove cylinder head as described under CYLINDER
HEAD, REMOVAL on page 3-11.
3.
Clean crankcase around base of cylinder to prevent dirt and
debris from entering crankcase while removing cylinder.
4.
See Figure 3-27. Turn engine over until one piston (3) is
at bottom of its stroke.
5.
Carefully raise cylinder just enough to permit placing
clean towel under piston to prevent any foreign matter
from falling into crankcase.
NOTE
If cylinder does not come loose, tap lightly with plastic hammer. Never try to pry cylinder up.
6.
b0056x3x
6
7
10
3
Carefully lift cylinder over piston and studs. Do not allow
piston to fall against cylinder studs. Discard cylinder base
gasket (5).
1
2
Install a 6 in. (150 mm) length of 1/2 in. (12.7 mm) ID
plastic or rubber hose over each stud. This will protect
the studs and the pistons.
1WARNING
The next step covers removing the piston pin retaining
rings. These rings are highly compressed in the ring
groove and may “fly out” with considerable force when
pried out of the groove. Safety glasses or goggles must
be worn while removing or installing retaining rings or
personal injury may occur.
1CAUTION
The piston pin retaining rings must not be reused.
Removal may weaken retaining rings and they may break
or dislodge. Either occurrence may damage engine.
8.
8
9
1CAUTION
With cylinder removed, be careful not to bend the studs.
The slightest bend could cause a stress riser and lead to
stud failure.
7.
7
Insert an awl in the recessed area below the piston pin
bore, and pry out the piston pin retaining rings. To prevent the ring from flying out, place your thumb over the
retaining ring.
3-22
4
5
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Cylinder
Dowel (2)
and O-ring (2)
Piston
Stud (4)
Gasket
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Ring set
Retaining ring (2)
Piston pin
Piston pin bushing
Connecting rod
Figure 3-27. Cylinder and Piston
NOTE
Since the piston pin is a loose fit in the piston, the pin will easily slide out. The pins have tapered ends to help seat the
round retaining rings. See Figure 3-28. 1200cc piston pins
are stamped with a V-groove at one end.
b0057a3x
CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
1.
Soak cylinder and piston in an aluminum-compatible
cleaner/solvent until deposits are soft, then clean with a
brush. Blow off loosened carbon and dirt particles and
wash in solvent.
2.
Clean oil passage in cylinder with compressed air.
3.
Clean piston ring grooves with a piece of compression
ring ground to a chisel shape.
4.
Examine piston pin to see that it is not pitted or scored.
5.
Check piston pin bushing to see that it is not loose in
connecting rod, grooved, pitted or scored. A piston pin
properly fitted to upper connecting rod bushing has a
0.00125 to 0.00175 in. (0.0317-0.0444 mm) clearance in
bushing. If piston pin-to-bushing clearance exceeds
0.00200 in. (0.0508 mm), replace worn parts. See CONNECTING ROD BUSHING on page 3-26.
6.
Clean piston pin retaining ring grooves.
7.
Examine piston and cylinder for cracks, burnt spots,
grooves and gouges.
8.
Check connecting rod for up and down play in lower
bearings. When up and down play is detected, lower
bearing should be refitted. This requires removing and
disassembling engine crankcase.
V-groove
Figure 3-28. Piston Pin and Piston Identification
9.
Mark each pin boss with either an “F” or an “R” to indicate front or rear cylinder, respectively. See Figure 3-28.
The arrow at the top of 1200cc pistons must always point
toward the front of the engine.
1CAUTION
Handle the piston with extreme care. The alloy used in
these pistons is very hard. Any scratches, gouges or
other marks in the piston could score the cylinder during
engine operation and cause engine damage.
10. Spread piston rings (6) outward until they clear grooves
in piston (3) and lift off.
Checking Gasket Surface
1CAUTION
If either cylinder gasket surface does not meet flatness
specifications, replace cylinder and piston. Proper tolerances will extend component life and prevent leaks.
1.
See Figure 3-29. Check that cylinder top (head) gasket
surface is flat within 0.006 in. (0.15 mm). Lay a straight
edge across the surface, then try to insert a feeler gauge
between the straightedge and the gasket surface.
2.
Check that the cylinder base gasket surface is flat within
0.008 in. (0.20 mm). Lay a straightedge across the surface, then try to insert a feeler gauge between the
straightedge and the gasket surface.
3-23
2781a
2782a
Gasket surface flat within
0.006 in. (0.15 mm)
Figure 3-29. Checking Gasket Surfaces
Measuring Cylinder Bore
1.
Remove any burrs from the cylinder gasket surfaces.
2.
See Figure 3-30. Install a head and base gasket, and
CYLINDER TORQUE PLATES (Part No. HD-33446A)
and TORQUE PLATE BOLTS (Part No. HD-33446-86).
Tighten the bolts using the same method used when
installing the cylinder head screws. See CYLINDER
HEAD, INSTALLATION on page 3-20.
NOTE
Torque plates, properly tightened and installed with gaskets,
simulate engine operating conditions. Measurements will vary
as much as 0.001 in. (0.025 mm) without torque plates.
3.
4.
5.
Take cylinder bore measurement in ring path, starting
about 1/2 in. (13 mm) from top of cylinder, measuring
from front to rear and then side to side. Record readings.
Repeat measurement at center and then at bottom of
ring path. Record readings. This process will determine if
cylinder is out-of-round (or “egged”) and will also show
any cylinder taper or bulge.
See Table 3-6. If cylinder is not scuffed or scored and is
within service limit, see FITTING CYLINDER TO PISTON on page 3-25.
NOTE
If piston clearance exceeds service limit, cylinders should be
rebored and/or honed to next standard oversize, and refitted
with the corresponding piston and rings. Do not fit piston
tighter than 0.0007 in. (0.018 mm) See SPECIFICATIONS.
3-24
Figure 3-30. Measuring Cylinder Bore Using Torque
Plates (Part No. HD-33446A)
Table 3-6. 1200cc Cylinder Bore
Service Wear Limits
BORE SIZES
IN.
MM
Standard Bore
3.5008
88.920
0.005 in. OS bore
(0.13 mm)
3.5050
89.027
0.010 in. OS bore
(0.25 mm)
3.5100
89.154
0.020 in. OS bore
(0.51 mm)
3.5200
89.408
0.030 in. OS bore
(0.76 mm)
3.5300
89.662
Measuring Piston
2747a
Because of their complex shape, the pistons cannot be accurately measured with standard measuring instruments.
2
The pistons have the typical elliptical shape when viewed
from the top. However, they also are barrel-shaped when
viewed from the side. This barrel shape is not symmetrical.
3
1
Any damage to the piston will change its shape, which will
lead to problems.
Fitting Cylinder to Piston
Since pistons cannot be accurately measured with standard
measuring instruments, the bore sizes must be observed.
Bore sizes are listed in Table 3-7. Example: A 0.005 in.
(0.13 mm) oversize piston will have the proper clearance with
a bore size of 3.502 in. ± 0.0002 in. (88.95 mm ± 0.005 mm)
for the 1200cc engine.
1.
2.
3.
Boring and Honing Cylinder
1.
2.
The cylinder must be bored with gaskets and torque
plates attached. Bore the cylinder to 0.003 in. (0.08 mm)
under the desired finished size.
Hone the cylinder to its finished size using a 280 grit rigid
hone followed by a 240 grit flexible ball hone. Honing
must be done with the torque plates attached. All honing
must be done from the bottom (crankcase) end of the cylinder. Work for a 60° crosshatch pattern.
Table 3-7. Final Cylinder Bore Sizes
BORE SIZES
Top compression ring – Install either side up
Second compression ring – Install dot toward top
Oil control rings
Figure 3-31. Piston Rings
Fitting Piston Rings
NOTE
Ring sets and pistons, 0.040 in. (1.02 mm) oversize, are not
available on 1200cc engines.
See Figure 3-31. Piston rings are of two types: compression
and oil control. The two compression rings are positioned in
the two upper piston ring grooves. The dot on the second
compression ring must face upward. Ring sets are available
to fit standard and oversize pistons.
Piston ring sets must be properly fitted to piston and cylinder:
IN.
MM
Standard bore*
3.4978 in.
88.844 mm
0.005 in. OS bore
(0.13 mm)
3.502 in.
88.95 mm
See Figure 3-32. Place piston in cylinder about 1/2 in.
(12.7 mm) from top. Set ring to be checked squarely
against piston as shown. Check end gap with thickness
gauge. See SPECIFICATIONS for tolerance.
0.010 in. OS bore
(0.25 mm)
3.507 in.
89.08 mm
NOTE
See SERVICE WEAR LIMITS for end gap dimensions. Do not
file rings to obtain proper gap.
0.020 in. OS bore
(0.51 mm)
3.517 in.
89.33 mm
0.030 in. OS bore
(0.76 mm)
3.527 in.
89.59 mm
1.
2.
*All bore sizes + 0.0002 in. (0.005 mm)
When cylinder requires oversize reboring to beyond 0.30 in.
(0.76 mm), the oversize limit has been exceeded and cylinder
must be replaced.
NOTE
The same piston may be used if cylinder bore was not
changed, unless it is scuffed or grooved. However, replace
rings and hone the cylinder walls with a No. 240 grit flexible
hone to facilitate ring seating.
See Figure 3-33. Apply engine oil to piston grooves. Use
TRANSMISSION SHAFT RETAINING RING PLIERS
(Part No. J-5586) to slip compression rings over piston
into their respective grooves. Be extremely careful not to
over expand, twist rings, or damage piston surface when
installing rings.
NOTE
Install second compression ring with dot towards top.
3.
See Figure 3-34. Install rings so end gaps of adjacent
rings are a minimum of 90° apart. Ring gaps are not to
be within 10° of the thrust face centerline.
4.
See Figure 3-35. Check for proper side clearance with
thickness gauge, as shown. See SPECIFICATIONS for
tolerance.
NOTE
If the ring grooves are clean and the side play is still not correct, replace the rings, the piston or both.
3-25
b0095x3x
2783a
Position ring end gaps at arrows–
minimum of 90° apart
FRONT
Piston
pin
REAR
Figure 3-34. Ring End Gap Position
2785a
Figure 3-32. Measuring Ring End Gap
2784a
Apply engine oil to piston
grooves to aid ring installation
Transmission Shaft Retaining
Ring Pliers (Part No. J-5586)
Figure 3-35. Measuring Ring Clearance in Groove
4.
Use two box wrenches and push worn bushing from connecting rod.
5.
Remove piston pin bushing tool from connecting rod.
6.
Remove bushing from receiver cup.
7.
See Figure 3-37. Attach PISTON PIN BUSHING TOOL
(Part No. HD-95970-32C) to connecting rod; place new
bushing between connecting rod and driver.
Figure 3-33. Installing Piston Rings
Connecting Rod Bushing
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
When connecting rod bushing is worn to excessive pin clearance (0.002 in. or more) (0.05 mm) it must be replaced.
1.
See Figure 3-37. Install plastic hoses over studs.
NOTE
The driver must be attached facing the opposite direction as it
was for removal of the bushing.
2.
Secure connecting rod with CONNECTING ROD
CLAMPING TOOL (Part No. HD-95952-33A).
8.
Clean up and size bushing to 0.0010-0.0005 in.
(0.025-0.013 mm) undersize using REAMER (Part No.
HD-94800-26A). Sizing bushing with less than 0.00125
in. (0.0317 mm) clearance can result in a bushing loosening and/or seized pin in rod.
9.
Hone bushing to final size using WRIST PIN BUSHING
HONE (Part No. HD-35102). Use a liberal amount of
honing oil to prevent damage to hone or bushing. Use
care to prevent foreign material from falling into the
crankcase.
NOTE
If CONNECTING ROD CLAMPING TOOL holes are too
small, enlarge the holes in the tool.
3.
See Figure 3-36. Attach PISTON PIN BUSHING TOOL
(Part No. HD-95970-32C) to the connecting rod (receiver
cup on one side of the rod and the driver on the opposite
side) as shown.
3-26
b0173x3x
2
4
3
1
5
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Receiver cup
Driver
Washer
Nut
Bolt
Figure 3-36. Piston Pin Bushing Tool Assembly for Bushing Removal
REPAIR
2786a
1CAUTION
Piston Pin Bushing Tool
(Part No. HD-95970-32C)
Replace bent connecting rods. Do not attempt to
straighten. Straightening rods by bending will damage
the bearing on the crank pin and the piston pin bushing.
Installing bent connecting rods will damage cylinder and
piston beyond repair.
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
1.
Install piston assembly over connecting rod.
NOTE
New 1200cc pistons must be installed with the arrow, at the
top of the piston, pointing towards the front of the engine.
2.
Install piston pin.
1CAUTION
Always use new retaining ring. Make sure retaining ring
groove is clean and that ring seats firmly in groove. If it
does not, discard the ring. Never install a used retaining
ring or a new one if it has been installed and then
removed for any reason. A loosely installed ring will
come out of the piston groove and damage cylinder and
piston beyond repair.
3.
Install new piston pin retaining rings with the PISTON
PIN RETAINING RING INSTALLER (Part No. HD34623A). Make sure the ring groove is clean and that the
ring is fully seated in the groove with the gap away from
the slot at the bottom.
4.
See Figure 3-34. Make sure the piston ring end gaps are
properly positioned as shown.
5.
Lubricate cylinder wall, piston, pin and rod bushing with
engine oil.
6.
Turn engine until piston is at top dead center.
Rod Clamping Fixture
(Part No. HD-95952-33A)
Figure 3-37. Installing New Piston Pin Bushing
7.
Compress the piston rings using PISTON RING COMPRESSOR (Part No. HD-96333-51B).
8.
Remove cylinder stud sleeves. Install a new cylinder
base gasket. Make sure the piston does not bump the
studs or crankcase.
9.
Install cylinder over piston.
10. Remove piston ring compressor.
11. Assemble and install cylinder head. See CYLINDER
HEAD, ASSEMBLY starting on page 3-19.
12. Install assembled engine. See
ENGINE on page 3-10.
INSTALLING THE
3-27
LUBRICATION SYSTEM
CHECKING AND ADDING OIL
Check engine oil level in oil tank at least once every 500 miles
(800 km). Check level more frequently if engine uses more oil
than normal or if vehicle is operated under harsh conditions.
Oil tank capacity is 2.0 quarts (1.9 liters).
See ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM in Section 1 for more
information.
CHANGING OIL AND FILTER
After a new engine has run its first 500 miles (800 km) and at
5000 mile (8000 km) intervals or annually thereafter, completely drain oil tank of used oil. Refill with fresh oil. If vehicle is
driven extremely hard, used in competition or driven on dusty
roads, change engine oil at shorter intervals. Always change
oil filter when changing engine oil.
See ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM in Section 1 for more
information.
3-28
WINTER LUBRICATION
Normal fuel combustion in a gasoline engine produces water
vapor and carbon dioxide along with other gases and particulates. When first starting and warming an engine, some of the
water vapor that gets into the engine crankcase condenses to
form liquid water. If the engine is driven long enough to thoroughly warm the crankcase, most of this liquid water is again
vaporized and exhausted through the crankcase breather
system.
A moderately driven vehicle making short runs may not be
able to vacate water vapors allowing liquid water to accumulates in the oil tank. This is especially true if the vehicle is
operated in cold weather. In freezing weather, an accumulation of water in the engine oil may become slush or ice, which
can block oil lines and lead to severe engine damage. Water
remaining in the engine oil for long periods of time can form
an acidic sludge that is corrosive to metal engine parts and
causes accelerated wear of moving components.
In winter the oil change interval should be shorter than normal. The colder the weather, the shorter the recommended oil
change interval. A vehicle used only for short runs in cold
weather must have the engine oil drained frequently.
OIL HOSE ROUTING
GENERAL
b0248x3x
4
See Figure 3-38. The oil tank has four hoses. The drain hose
(2) attaches to a fitting on the left side of the frame. From the
top of the tank, the vent hose (3) and the return hose (4) join
the bottom feed hose (1) near the battery tray. Cable straps
secure the hoses in place.
3
2
See Figure 3-39. The feed (1) and return hoses (3) run
together between the swingarm mount block and crankcase,
beneath the engine and forward to the oil pump. The feed
hose attaches to the rear most oil pump fitting; the return
hose connects forward and above.
After diverging from the feed and return hoses, the vent hose
is routed beneath the starter. The vent hose continues on to
the right side of the motorcycle and goes behind the gearcase
cover assembly where it connects to an elbow fitting.
1
1.
2.
3.
4.
Feed hose (3/8 in. ID by 5/8 in. OD)
Drain hose (3/8 in. ID by 5/8 in. OD)
Vent hose (1/4 in. ID by 1/2 in. OD)
Return hose (3/8 in. ID by 5/8 in. OD)
Figure 3-38. Oil Tank Hoses
5709
3
2
4
1
1.
2.
Feed hose
Oil pump
3.
4.
Return hose
Oil filter connection
Figure 3-39. Oil Pump Connections
3-29
OIL TANK
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
1.
Remove seat, fuel tank and tail section. See TAIL SECTION, REMOVAL in Section 2.
2.
Remove rear fender. See FENDERS in Section 2.
3.
Drain oil tank. See ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM,
CHANGING ENGINE OIL AND FILTER in Section 1.
The oil filter need not be removed unless it is due to be
replaced.
4.
b0247x3x
10
9
8
See Figure 3-40. Disconnect hoses from oil tank. Label
each hose upon removal.
a.
Remove worm clamp (3) from feed hose (4).
b.
Remove clamp (5) from drain hose (6).
c.
Remove clamp (8) from vent hose (7).
d.
Remove clamp (10) from return hose (9)
5.
Remove bolts and lockwashers from well nuts.
6.
Detach oil tank from frame.
6
1
2
3
See Figure 3-40. Place oil tank on frame and align
mounts. Loosely install bolts and lockwashers (1) at all
four mounting points.
NOTE
Starting at the top mounting points will simplify installation.
2.
Connect the four oil tank hoses. Tighten new clamps (5,
8 and 10) using HOSE CLAMP PLIERS (Part No. HD41137).
NOTE
Worm clamp (3) may be reused on feed hose (4).
3.
Fill oil tank. See ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM,
CHANGING ENGINE OIL AND FILTER in Section 1.
4.
Install rear fender. See FENDERS in Section 2.
1WARNING
After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be
sure it is locked in position. If seat is loose, it could shift
during vehicle operation and startle the rider, causing
loss of control and personal injury.
5.
Install tail section, fuel tank and seat. See TAIL SECTION in Section 2.
3-30
5
4
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
1.
7
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Bolt, lockwasher
and well nut (4)
Oil tank
Worm clamp, 3/8 in.
Feed hose
Hose clamp, 3/8 in.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Drain hose
Vent hose
Hose clamp, 1/4 in.
Return hose
Hose clamp, 3/8 in.
Figure 3-40. Oil Tank
OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL LIGHT SWITCH
GENERAL
5681
The oil pressure signal light switch is a pressure-actuated diaphragm-type switch. When oil is not circulating through the
system or when oil pressure is abnormally low, spring tension
holds the switch contacts closed, thereby completing the signal light circuit and causing the indicator lamp to illuminate.
Oil Pressure Gauge Adapter
(Part No. HD-96940-52A)
OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL LIGHT
The oil pressure signal light turns ON when:
●
Ignition switch is turned on prior to starting engine.
●
Oil is not circulating through the running engine.
●
Oil pressure is abnormally low on the running engine.
●
Engine is idling far below 1000 RPM.
Oil Pressure Gauge
(Part No. HD-96921-52A)
Figure 3-41. Checking Oil Pressure
5516
The oil pressure signal light turns OFF when:
●
Oil is circulating with adequate pressure through the
engine running at 1000 RPM or greater.
Troubleshooting information is listed in Table 3-8.
NOTE
Oil pressure
switch
Oil filter
If the ignition is turned back on immediately after the engine is
stopped, the oil light may not turn on right away because of oil
pressure retained in the filter housing.
OIL PRESSURE
See Figure 3-41. The oil pump is nonregulatory and delivers
its entire volume of oil under pressure to the oil filter mount.
When an engine is cold, the engine oil will be more viscous
(i.e., thicker). During start-up of a cold engine, oil pressure will
be higher than normal and oil circulation will be somewhat
restricted within the oiling system. As the engine warms to
normal operating temperature, the engine oil will warm up
and become less viscous — oil pressure decreases.
When an engine is operated at high speeds, the volume of oil
circulated through the oiling system increases, resulting in
higher oil pressure. As engine speed is reduced, the volume
of oil pumped is also reduced, resulting in lower oil pressure.
Figure 3-42. Oil Pressure Signal Light Switch
Table 3-8. Troubleshooting Oil
Pressure Signal Light
OIL
PRESSURE
SIGNAL LIGHT
Stays on at
speeds above
idle.
PROBABLE CAUSES
●
●
●
●
●
●
●
Empty oil tank.
Clogged feed line (ice and sludge,
freezing temperatures).
Air-bound oil line.
Grounded oil switch wire.
Malfunctioning signal switch.
Diluted oil.
Malfunctioning check valve (see OIL
FILTER MOUNT on page 3-37).
To check oil pressure, use OIL PRESSURE GAUGE (Part No.
HD-96921-52A) and OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ADAPTER
(Part No. HD-96940-52A). Remove oil pressure switch and
insert pressure gauge fitting. See Figure 3-42.
Flickers at idle.
●
Incorrect idle speed. Malfunctioning
or improperly installed check valve
(see OIL FILTER MOUNT).
Run engine until oil reaches normal operating temperature
(motorcycle should be driven at least 20 miles (32 km) at or
above 50 MPH (80 KM/H)). At 2500 RPM, oil pressure will
vary from 10-17 psi (69-117 kN/m2). At idle speed (950-1050
RPM), oil pressure will vary from 7-12 psi (48-83 kN/m2).
Does not glow
when ignition
is turned on
(prior to operating engine).
●
●
●
●
Malfunctioning signal switch.
Malfunction in wiring.
Burned-out signal bulb.
Dead battery (see NOTE above).
3-31
CRANKCASE BREATHING SYSTEM
GENERAL
See Figure 3-43. On piston downstroke, a mixture of crankcase
air and oil mist is vented up the push rod covers (1) through an
umbrella valve (3) in each middle rocker box section. The oil
mist separates from the crankcase air, collects and passes
through a small drain hole (2) where it eventually returns to the
crankcase. The crankcase air is routed through a passage in
each cylinder head. The crankcase air then travels through
each air cleaner breather bolt (4) into a hose leading into the
air cleaner.
b0143a3x
1
4
2
3
1.
2.
3.
4.
Push rod cover (2)
Oil drain hole
Umbrella valve
Breather bolt
Figure 3-43. Crankcase Breathing System – Typical Cylinder
3-32
OILING SYSTEM (COLOR FOLDOUT)
NOTE
The following paragraph numbers correspond with the numbered callouts in the INTERNAL ENGINE PASSAGES illustration.
1.
Oil is gravity-fed from the oil tank to the gerotor-style oil
pump through a feed hose. Oil enters the feed section
and fills a cavity located under the feed pump.
NOTE
A complete explanation of the gerotor pump is given under
OIL PUMP.
2.
The feed pump transfers oil from the inlet cavity through
the feed hose to the oil filter mount.
3.
Oil flows through the filter mount cavity to the oil filter.
4.
Oil enters the peripheral cavity of the oil filter, passes
through the filtering medium into the central cavity of the
oil filter, and flows into the filter adapter (fitting which connects filter to filter mount).
5.
Adequate oil pressure in the filter mount cavity activates
the oil pressure signal light switch and shuts off the oil
pressure signal light.
6.
Oil flowing from the filter adapter opens the check ball.
The check ball opens at 4-6 psi (28-41 kN/m2) oil pressure.
7.
With the check ball open, oil flows into the crankcase
feed galley.
8.
Oil flows through the feed galley in the crankcase to the
tappet blocks and hydraulic lifters. Cross-drilled passages intersect the main feed galley and carry oil to each
hydraulic lifter.
9.
Oil also enters an intersecting passage in the gearcase
cover. Oil flow is then routed to the crankshaft area.
10. Oil enters a hole in the end of the pinion gear shaft and
travels to the right flywheel where it is routed through the
flywheel to the crankpin. Oil is forced through the crankpin to properly lubricate the rod bearing assembly.
11. Oil flows up passages in the push rods to the rocker arm
shafts and bushings.
12. The valve stems are lubricated by oil supplied through
drilled oil holes in the rocker arms.
13. Oil collected in the push rod areas of the cylinder heads
flows down the push rod covers, through drain holes in
the tappet blocks and into the gearcase.
14. Feed oil to the rocker area is returned to the crankcase
through a passage in the head and cylinder.
15. Oil collected in the sump is splash-fed to the pistons, cylinder walls and flywheel components.
16. Oil collected in the sump area returns to the scavenge
section of the oil pump through a passage located in the
rear section of the sump. Oil flow to the pump is accomplished by the scavenging effect of the pump and by the
pressure created by the downward stroke of the pistons.
17. Return oil fills a cavity above the pump's return gears.
The return gears pump oil back to the oil tank.
18. A small amount of oil flows from the feed galley in the
right crankcase half through a restricted orifice, which
sprays the oil onto the rear intake cam gear in the gearcase. Oil is transferred to the teeth of all the cam gears
through the gear meshing action.
3-33
OIL PUMP
GENERAL
See Figure 3-44. The oil pump consists of two gerotor gear
sets, feed and scavenge (return), housed in one pump body.
The feed pump distributes oil to the engine, the scavenge
pump returns oil to the tank.
A gerotor-type gear set has two parts — an inner and an
outer gerotor. The inner gerotor has one less tooth than the
outer gerotor. Both gerotors have fixed centers which are offset to each other.
In a gerotor gear set, oil is transferred from inlet to outlet as it
is trapped between the rotating inner and outer gerotors. The
illustration below shows the principle of gerotor operation:
1.
2.
During the first 180° of rotation, the cavity between inner
and outer gerotors gradually increases in size until it
reaches its maximum size, equivalent to the full volume
of the “missing tooth.” The gradually enlarging cavity creates a vacuum into which oil flows from the inlet.
During the next 180° of rotation, the size of the cavity
decreases forcing oil into the outlet. See Figure 3-46.
Gravity-fed oil from the oil tank enters the pump through
fitting (5). It is forced by gerotor set (7) through a hose to
the oil filter. Return oil from the flywheel compartment is
drawn back into the pump and is forced by gerotor set (9)
back to the oil tank.
See INTERNAL ENGINE PASSAGES for oil passages within
the engine.
The oil pump seldom needs servicing. Before you disassemble an oil pump suspected of not producing adequate oil pressure, be absolutely certain that all possible related
malfunctions have been eliminated:
1.
Make sure all oil hose clamps are tight and that hoses
are not pinched or damaged.
2.
Check oil level and condition of oil in tank. Pressure will
be affected if oil is diluted. In freezing weather, proper circulation of oil can be affected if the oil feed hose
becomes clogged with ice and sludge.
3.
Check for a grounded oil pressure switch wire or faulty
switch if oil indicator light fails to go out with engine running.
b0098x3x
Inner gerotor
Oil drawn into cavity
between gerotor teeth
Outer gerotor
Oil inlet
Oil outlet
Oil trapped between
gerotor teeth
Oil inlet
1
2
Oil outlet
Oil forced out
Oil trapped between inner
and outer gerotor teeth
3
Figure 3-44. Principle of Gerotor Operation
3-34
4
Oil
outlet
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
b0055x3x
NOTE
Oil pump can be removed with engine in frame and without
removing gearcase cover.
1.
Drain oil from oil tank.
2.
See Figure 3-45. Detach clamp (6) from oil hose. Move
rear shock rebound canister aside.
3.
Disconnect feed
connection (5).
hose
(3)
and
oil
filter
10
9
mount
4.
Carefully remove screws (1) and washers that secure
pump to crankcase. Pump will drop with screws
removed. Discard mounting gasket.
5.
Remove clamp and return hose connection (4).
12
7
4
6
2
6
14
5709
3
8
11
NOTE
Loosen nut on oil filter mount connection (5) and then remove
pressurized hose.
1
5
13
3
5
4
15
2
16
1
1
1.
2.
3.
2
Mounting screw and
4.
washer (2)
Cover screw and
5.
washer (2)
Feed hose connection 6.
Return hose
connection
Oil filter mount
connection
Clamp
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Figure 3-45. Oil Pump Hardware
8.
6.
See Figure 3-46. Remove cover screws (2) and washers
(3). Lift cover (6) off body (12). Remove and discard Oring (14).
7.
Slide both pieces of feed gerotor set (7), separator plate
(8) and both pieces of scavenge gerotor set (9) off gear
shaft (11).
8.
Remove and discard retaining ring (16). Remove thrust
washer (15) and gear shaft (11).
Mounting screw, long (2)
Cover screw, short (2)
Washer (4)
Connector
Hose fitting
Cover, oil pump
Gerotor assembly,
feed pump
Gerotor separator plate
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
Gerotor assembly,
scavenge pump
Mounting gasket
Gear shaft
Body, oil pump
Elbow
O-ring
Washer, thrust
Retaining ring
Figure 3-46. Oil Pump
3-35
CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
1.
Clean all parts in cleaning solvent. Blow out holes and oil
passages with compressed air.
2.
See Figure 3-47. Inspect both gerotor sets for wear.
Mesh pieces of each set together as shown. Use a feeler
gauge to determine clearance.
b0097x3x
Inner gerotor
Wear limit
Outer gerotor
NOTE
The maximum allowable clearance between gerotors is
0.004 in. (0.10 mm). Replace gerotors as a set if clearance
exceeds this dimension.
Figure 3-47. Gerotor Wear Limits
3.
Measure thickness of feed gerotors with a micrometer. If
they are not the same thickness, replace as a set.
7.
Place new mounting gasket (10) in position.
4.
Check gear shaft (11) teeth for damage or wear. Replace
if necessary.
8.
See Figure 3-45. Attach return hose (4) to oil pump.
9.
Secure pump to crankcase with screws (1) and washers.
Tighten mounting screws to 125-150 in-lbs (14.116.9 Nm).
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 3-46. Install gear shaft (11) through body
(12). Position thrust washer (15) over end of shaft. Install
new retaining ring (16) into groove in shaft.
NOTE
Liberally coat all moving parts with clean engine oil to ensure
easy assembly and smooth operation at start-up.
10. Connect feed hose (3) and oil filter mount connection (5)
to oil pump.
NOTE
Use new hose clamps. If fittings were removed, use
TEFLON® PIPE SEALANT or HYLOMAR® on fitting threads.
2.
Insert inner gerotor of the scavenge gerotor set (9) over
gear shaft.
3.
Place outer gerotor over inner to complete scavenge
set (9).
4.
Position separator plate (8) into case and line up slots on
perimeter with tabs inside oil pump body (12).
5.
Place feed gerotor set (7) over gear shaft (11).
12. Prime oil pump. Loosen feed hose connection and start
engine. Operate at idle and allow about 2.0 ounces
(0.06 liter) of engine oil to be forced through hose connection. Stop engine and tighten hose connection.
6.
Install a new O-ring (14) into groove in cover (6). Place
cover onto pump body. Install cover screws (2) with
washers (3). Tighten cover screws (2) to 125-150 in-lbs
(14.1-16.9 Nm).
13. Check engine oil level in tank. Add oil to correct level if
needed. See ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM in Section 1.
3-36
11. Attach clamp (6) and canister to oil hose.
OIL FILTER MOUNT
GENERAL
b0170x3x
See Figure 3-48. Oil is pressure-fed from the oil pump to the
oil filter mount (4) via a hose connection (5). Oil travels
through the filter mount into the filter via outer filter holes.
4
Adequate oil pressure activates the oil pressure signal light
switch (6) in the filter mount, which turns off the oil pressure
indicator lamp.
3
2
The check ball (2) in the filter adapter (1) “opens” at 4-6 psi
(28-41 kN/m2) oil pressure. Filtered oil leaves the filter, flowing past the check ball.
1
DISASSEMBLY
1.
Remove oil filter adapter (1) from oil filter mount (4).
Remove check ball (2) and spring (3).
2.
Remove oil pressure signal light switch (6).
CLEANING/INSPECTION
Thoroughly clean all parts in cleaning solvent. Blow out holes
and passages using compressed air.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE
Use TEFLON PIPE SEALANT or HYLOMAR on all fittings
installed to oil filter mount.
1.
Install oil pressure signal light switch (6). Tighten to 57 ft-lbs (7-9 Nm).
2.
Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue) to the
threads on that end of the oil filter adapter (1) which is
installed into oil filter mount (4). Do not apply LOCTITE to
adapter threads on oil filter element side.
NOTE
The oil filter adapter (1) has identical ends; either end may be
installed into the oil filter mount.
3.
5
1.
2.
3.
4.
6
Oil filter adapter
Check ball
Spring
Oil filter mount (part of
right crankcase half)
5.
6.
Feed hose
Oil pressure signal
light switch
Figure 3-48. Oil Filter Mount
4.
Connect pressure switch wire. Tighten nut which secures
wire to 4-10 in-lbs (0.4-1.1 Nm).
5.
Pour about 4.0 ounces (0.12 liter) of clean engine oil into
filter. Apply a light coat of oil to oil filter gasket. Install oil
filter onto oil filter mount/adapter assembly; tighten filter
an additional 1/2-3/4 turn after gasket contacts filter
mount surface.
6.
Fill oil tank with proper oil. See ENGINE LUBRICATION
SYSTEM, CHANGING ENGINE OIL AND FILTER in
Section 1.
Place spring (3) and check ball (2) into threaded hole at
center of mount (4). Push adapter (1) against ball to
compress spring. Install threaded end (with LOCTITE)
into threaded hole at center of mount (4). Tighten adapter
to 8-12 ft-lbs (11-16 Nm).
3-37
VALVE TAPPETS
GENERAL
REMOVAL
See Figure 3-49. The tappet assembly consists of tappet and
roller. The tappet and roller, under compression force from
valve spring, follow the surface of the revolving cam. The upand-down motion produced is transmitted to the valve by the
push rod and rocker arm. The tappet contains a piston (or
plunger) and cylinder; it also contains a check valve, which
allows the unit to fill with engine oil, thereby reducing clearance in the valve train.
1.
Clean all dirt from around crankcase. Blow loose particles from area with compressed air.
2.
Remove the upper, middle, and lower rocker covers. See
CYLINDER HEAD, REMOVAL on page 3-11. Pull the
push rod upward through top of cylinder head.
3.
When a tappet is functioning properly, the assembly operates
with minimal tappet clearance. The unit automatically compensates for heat expansion to maintain a no-clearance
condition.
See Figure 3-50. Remove screw (11) and washer (13). Lift
retainer (9) and seal (8) upward a few inches on push rod
cover (7). Push upward on push rod cover while pulling
bottom of cover (7) clear of crankcase. Remove cover (7).
4.
Remove screw (5), washer (14), and plate (4). Pull Orings (3) off ends of pins (2) and discard. Grasp ends of
pins (2) and pull outward free of crankcase. A pliers is a
handy tool to free pins (2). With a thin-bladed screwdriver
in the retainer groove at the top of the tappet, pry upward
on the tappet until it extends above the gearcase and can
be pulled out by hand.
It is normal for tappets to click when engine is started after
standing for some time. Tappets have a definite leakdown rate
which permits the oil in the tappets to escape. This is necessary to allow units to compensate for various expansion conditions of parts and still maintain correct clearance operation.
Tappets are functioning properly if they become quiet after a
few minutes of engine operation.
CLEANING/INSPECTION
1.
Clean all parts, except roller/tappet assembly, thoroughly
in solvent. Blow dry with compressed air.
2.
Inspect valve tappets for excessive clearance in guide.
Clearance should be 0.0008-0.0020 in. (0.020-0.051 mm).
Accurately measure tappet bore inner diameter with a
gauge. Service wear limit is 0.0030 in. (0.076 mm).
Excessive tappet guide clearance is corrected by fitting a
new tappet and/or replacing crankcases.
b0174x3x
Piston
Oil
NOTE
Oil
Inside and outside micrometers used for measuring tappets
and tappet guides must be calibrated to ensure accurate
readings.
3.
Check tappet roller freeplay. Roller clearance on pin
should be within 0.0006-0.0010 in. (0.015-0.025 mm).
Recommended service practice is tappet replacement.
Service wear limit is 0.0015 in. (0.038 mm).
4.
Check tappet roller end clearance. Clearance should be
0.008-0.022 in. (0.203-0.559 mm). Service wear limit is
0.026 in. (0.660 mm).
5.
Tappets should be soaked in clean engine oil and kept
covered until assembly.
Check valve
Roller
Figure 3-49. Tappet Assembly
3-38
3
INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 3-50. Rotate engine so that both tappets (6),
from the cylinder being serviced, will be installed on the
base circle (lowest position) of the cam.
2.
Apply a liberal amount of engine oil to tappet assembly,
especially the roller needles, to ensure smooth initial
operation.
3.
Insert tappet (6) into bore in crankcase (1). Rotate tappet
so that flats at upper end of tappet face the front and rear
of the engine. If the tappet is installed incorrectly, pins (2)
cannot be inserted.
4.
5.
6.
7.
b0134x3x
8
7
12
Insert pins (2) in the holes in crankcase. Place new Orings (3) over ends of pins. Install plate (4) using screw
(5) with washer (14). Tighten screw (5) to 80-110 in-lbs
(9.0-12.4 Nm).
10
11
13
9
4
Insert screw (11) with washer (13) through hole in
retainer (9), and thread into tapped hole in crankcase.
Tighten screw (11) to 15-18 ft-lbs (20-24 Nm).
Install rocker covers. See CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION starting on page 3-20.
6
1
Slide new seal (8) and place retainer (9), over top of
push rod cover (7). Position new O-ring (10) at top of
push rod cover. Hold cover at an angle and insert top
through hole in cylinder head. Push up on cover while
aligning bottom of cover with tappet bore in crankcase.
Lower retainer (9) with seal (8) onto crankcase, aligning
locating pin (15) with hole in retainer.
15
14
5
2
3
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Right
crankcase half
Pin (2)
O-ring (2)
Plate
Screw
Tappet lifter (2)
Push rod cover (2)
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Seal (2)
Retainer (2)
O-ring (2)
Screw (2)
Push rod (2)
Washer (2)
Washer
Locating pin (2)
Figure 3-50. Valve Tappet Service
3-39
GEARCASE COVER AND CAM GEARS
GENERAL
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
1.
See Figure 3-51. Thoroughly clean area around gearcase cover (17) and tappets. Blow loose dirt from crankcase with compressed air.
2.
Remove any parts that will interfere with gearcase disassembly (i.e., exhaust header, footrest, air cleaner, etc.).
3.
Remove push rods as described under CYLINDER
HEAD, REMOVAL on page 3-11.
4.
Remove tappets. See VALVE TAPPETS, REMOVAL on
page 3-38.
Read the complete gearcase section carefully before you
begin any service work.
For the gearcase components to operate at their optimum, all
components must be properly fitted and matched. Changing
one component can affect many others. It is important to
know and understand all inspection procedures and how
components interact.
b0058a3x
13
10
4
8
13
3
7
12
5
16
13
9
17
2
11
15
13
1
14
6
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Rear exhaust cam gear
Rear intake cam gear
Front intake cam gear
Front exhaust cam gear
Pinion gear
Seal
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Front intake cam gear bushing
Front exhaust cam gear bushing
Gearcase cover gasket
Right crankcase half
Nut
Oil pump drive gear
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
Cam gear bushing (4)
Rear exhaust cam gear bushing
Rear intake cam gear bushing
Pinion shaft bushing
Gearcase cover
Figure 3-51. Gearcase and Valve Train Components
3-40
5.
Check for minimum cam gear end play. See page 3-46.
Record readings.
6.
Remove ignition system. See Section 7.
7.
Place a pan under gearcase to collect oil. Remove cover
screws. Carefully remove gearcase cover. Discard old
gasket (9).
2223a
NOTE
If cover does not come loose on removal of screws, tap lightly
with a plastic hammer. Never pry cover off.
8.
Remove cam gears (1, 2, 3 and 4). Carefully mark each
component to ensure correct installation.
NOTE
Nut (11) is secured by LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red)
on the nut threads.
9.
CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
1.
Gauge Pin Set
(Part No. HD-38361)
Remove nut (11). Slide pinion gear (5) and oil pump drive
gear (12) off pinion shaft.
Thoroughly clean gearcase compartment, gearcase
cover, and gears in solvent to remove oil and carbon
deposits.
2.
Blow out all cover oil passages and bushings with compressed air.
3.
Clean old gasket material from gearcase and cover faces
with cleaning solvent.
Figure 3-52. Measuring Gear Size
b0096a3x
Identify cams by
stamped number
Cam and Pinion Gear Identification,
Inspection, and Selection
See Figure 3-52. Cam lobes are stamped with the number “15”
followed by a number (1, 2, 3 or 4). The number “15” indicates
model year application; the number identifies the cam location/
function:
15-1 = rear exhaust
15-2 = rear intake
15-3 = front intake
15-4 = front exhaust
Use only “15” cams on 1996 models.
See Figure 3-53. Measure the gear diameter with a micrometer over 0.108 in. (2.74 mm) diameter gauge pins on opposite
sides of the gear. The pins are of the proper size to fit
between the contacting surfaces of the gear teeth. Gear
diameter should be measured in at least two places 90°
apart. Use GAUGE PIN SET (Part No. HD-38361) when measuring pinion and cam gear sizes.
Figure 3-53. Cam Identification
NOTE
On flywheel pinion shaft, a paint dot is located on the shaft
perimeter near the centerline of the keyway. This dot identifies
the pinion shaft inner race size. Do not use this dot to select
pinion gear size.
See Table 3-9. Compare the previously measured diameter of
each gear with the specifications (listed in inches) shown in
the table to determine amount of wear on gear teeth.
Cam and pinion gears are individually selected for each specific gear cover through sophisticated computer-aided measuring techniques in a controlled environment. Each gear is
assigned an individual color code based on its diameter
(measured with gauge pins). When cam and/or pinion gears
are replaced, always use the same color code as found on
gears being replaced to ensure that the gear operation
remains as quiet as possible. For location of cam and pinion
gear color codes, see Figure 3-54.
3-41
b0209x3x
2
3
4
1
5
1.
2.
3.
Rear exhaust cam gear (15-1)
Rear intake cam gear (15-2)
Front intake cam gear (15-3)
4.
5.
= Color code location on gear face
Front exhaust cam gear (15-4)
Pinion gear
Figure 3-54. Cam and Pinion Gear Color Code Location and Timing Mark Indexing
NOTE
Prior to changing any cam gears, check gear shaft fit within corresponding bushings. Worn bushings can cause excessive backlash.
Table 3-9. Cam and Pinion Gear Color Code and Diameter
GEAR NO. & POSITION
COLOR CODE
(1 paint dot)
BROWN
BLUE
RED
WHITE
GREEN
YELLOW
BLACK
3-42
1
2
INBOARD
2
OUTBOARD
3
4
5
Rear
Exhaust
Rear
Intake
Rear
Intake
Front
Intake
Front
Exhaust
Pinion
1.9005-1.9009
1.9035-1.9039
2.4021-2.4025
1.9005-1.9009
1.9035-1.9039
1.2753-1.2756
(48.272-48.283)
(48.349-48.359)
(61.013-61.023)
(48.272-48.283)
(48.349-48.359)
(32.393-32.400)
1.9010-1.9014
1.9030-1.9034
2.4026-2.4030
1.9010-1.9014
1.9030-1.9034
1.2749-1.2752
(48.285-48.295)
(48.336-48.346)
(61.026-61.036)
(48.285-48.295)
(48.336-48.346)
(32.382-32.390)
1.9015-1.9019
1.9025-1.9029
2.4031-2.4035
1.9015-1.9019
1.9025-1.9029
1.2745-1.2748
(48.298-48.308)
(48.323-48.333)
(61.038-61.049)
(48.298-48.308)
(48.323-48.333)
(32.372-32.380)
1.9020-1.9024
1.9020-1.9024
2.4036-2.4040
1.9020-1.9024
1.9020-1.9024
1.2741-1.2744
(48.310-48.321)
(48.310-48.321)
(61.051-61.061)
(48.310-48.321)
(48.310-48.321)
(32.362-32.369)
1.9025-1.9029
1.9015-1.9019
2.4041-2.4045
1.9025-1.9029
1.9015-1.9019
1.2737-1.2740
(48.323-48.333)
(48.298-48.308)
(61.064-61.074)
(48.323-48.333)
(48.298-48.308)
(32.352-32.359)
1.9030-1.9034
1.9010-1.9014
2.4046-2.4050
1.9030-1.9034
1.9010-1.9014
1.2733-1.2736
(48.336-48.346)
(48.285-48.295)
(61.076-61.087)
(48.336-48.346)
(48.285-48.295)
(32.341-32.349)
1.9035-1.9039
1.9005-1.9009
2.4051-2.4055
1.9035-1.9039
1.9005-1.9009
1.2729-1.2732
(48.349-48.359)
(48.272-48.283)
(61.089-61.099)
(48.349-48.359)
(48.272-48.283)
(32.331-32.339)
Bushing Inspection and Removal
1.
2806a
See Figure 3-51. Bushings (7, 8, 13, 14, 15 and 16) are
press fit in gearcase cover (17) and crankcase. Inspect
each bushing against its corresponding cam gear shaft
or pinion gear shaft. See Table 3-10.
Table 3-10. Gear Shaft Specifications
CORRECT
CLEARANCE
SERVICE WEAR
LIMIT
Cam
0.0007-0.0022 in.
(0.018-0.056 mm)
0.003 in.
(0.08 mm)
Pinion
0.0023-0.0043 in.
(0.058-0.109 mm)
0.005
(0.13 mm)
GEAR SHAFT
2.
See Figure 3-55. Use a BUSHING AND BEARING
PULLER (Part No. HD-95760-69A) to remove bushings
from gearcase cover and crankcase.
Bushing and Bearing Puller
(Part No. HD-95760-69A)
Bushing Installation
NOTE
Installing and reaming crankcase and gearcase cover bushings may alter the center distances between mating gears
and may result in an increase in gear noise. For quiet-running
gears, the gears should be matched to the center distances.
CAM GEAR BUSHINGS IN RIGHT
CRANKCASE HALF
1.
Figure 3-55. Removing Bushing
xlh0355
See Figure 3-57. Each cam gear bushing (1), to be
installed in right crankcase half (2), must be positioned in
crankcase bore with its oiling slot at exact top of bore (12
o’clock position).
2.
Using an arbor press, install each bushing in its crankcase bore so that bushing shoulder contacts crankcase
boss.
3.
After you install a new bushing in right crankcase half,
ream the bushing to correct size. See BUSHING REAMING on page 3-44.
Drill 5/32 in.
(3.97 mm)
Slot
CAM GEAR BUSHINGS (EXCEPT REAR INTAKE
BUSHING) IN GEARCASE COVER
1.
2.
See Figure 3-51. Using an arbor press, install each bushing (7, 8 and 14) in its gearcase cover (17) bore so that
bushing shoulder contacts cover boss. There is no need
to orient these particular bushings in any specific position
of rotation within gearcase cover bores.
After you install a new bushing in gearcase cover, lineream the bushing to correct size. See BUSHING REAMING on page 3-44.
1.
2.
Figure 3-56. Rear Intake Cam Gear Bushing
Installed in Gearcase Cover
2.
See Figure 3-56. Position bushing (1) over bore of gearcase cover (2) with chamfered edge downward and slot
upward. Align slot in bushing with slot in gearcase cover
boss. Press bushing into cover bore until bushing is flush
with cover boss.
3.
Drill a 5/32 in. (3.97 mm) diameter hole through bushing
using existing hole in gearcase cover as a guide.
4.
After you install a new bushing in gearcase cover, lineream the bushing to the correct size. See BUSHING
REAMING on page 3-44.
REAR INTAKE CAM GEAR BUSHING IN
GEARCASE COVER.
1.
See Figure 3-51. Rear intake cam gear bushing (15)
must be installed in its gearcase cover (17) bore using an
arbor press. You will need to orient the bushing in a specific position of rotation within the cover bore, and will
need to drill a lubrication hole in the bushing, according
to the following procedures
Rear intake cam gear bushing
Gearcase cover
3-43
b0089x3x
Oiling slot must be
at 12 o’clock position
3319a
1
2
Replacement bushing
requires dowel pin hole
1.
Cam gear bushing
2.
Right crankcase half
Figure 3-58. Drilling Dowel Pin Hole
Figure 3-57. Cam Gear Bushing Installed in Crankcase
PINION SHAFT BUSHING IN GEARCASE COVER
1.
2.
3.
4.
See Figure 3-51. Using an arbor press, install pinion
shaft bushing (16) in its gearcase cover (17) so that
bushing is flush with cover boss. There is no need to orient this particular bushing in any specific position of rotation within the gearcase cover bore.
Although the original pinion shaft bushing is not “pinned,”
the replacement bushing must be secured, from possible
rotation within the cover bore, by installation of a dowel
pin. See Figure 3-58. Drill a No. 31 hole, 0.281 in.
(7.14 mm) deep, at top side of boss (side toward top of
gearcase cover), centering the drill bit on the cover bore
circle (hole is drilled half in bushing OD and half in cover
bore ID).
Drive a new dowel pin no more than 0.20 in. (5.1 mm)
below the bushing face. Carefully peen edges of hole to
lock the pin in place.
After you install a new bushing in gearcase cover, lineream the bushing to the correct size. See BUSHING
REAMING.
NOTE
●
Installing and reaming crankcase and gearcase cover
bushings may alter the center distances between mating
gears and may result in an increase in gear noise. For
quiet-running gears, the gears should be matched to the
center distances.
●
Bushings in right crankcase half serve as pilots for reaming gearcase cover bushings and must, therefore, be
reamed to size first.
After reaming any bushing, check shaft fit in the bushing.
It may be necessary to make a second pass with reamer
to attain proper fit.
3-44
1.
Separate two halves of crankcase, if not already accomplished. Place right crankcase half on flat surface with
gearcase side upward. Bushing to be reamed must be
oriented as shown in Figure 3-57.
2.
See Figure 3-59. Position CAMSHAFT BUSHING
REAMER PILOT (Part No. HD-38871) onto gearcase
side of crankcase half; upper right and lower left indexing
holes in pilot must be placed over dowels in crankcase
half. Insert two bolts (supplied with pilot) through two
remaining holes in pilot, and into threaded holes of
crankcase half. Tighten bolts securely.
3.
Insert the 11/16 in. diameter reamer through pilot hole
and into bushing while turning reamer clockwise. Continue turning reamer clockwise through bushing until
smooth shank of reamer passes through hole in pilot.
4.
Detach reamer from handle. Pull reamer out opposite
side of crankcase half.
5.
Thoroughly clean right crankcase half, removing all metal
chips/shavings. Blow out all oil passages using compressed air.
CAM GEAR BUSHINGS (EXCEPT REAR INTAKE
BUSHING) IN GEARCASE COVER
Bushing Reaming
●
CAM GEAR BUSHINGS IN
RIGHT CRANKCASE HALF
NOTE
Newly installed cam gear bushings in the gearcase cover
must be line reamed, using the right crankcase half as a pilot
for the reamer, to establish correct clearance and to ensure
perfect alignment. If crankcase halves are not separated on
your motorcycle, use a spare right crankcase half to perform
the following line reaming procedures.
1.
See Figure 3-51. Bushings (7, 8 and 14) to be reamed
must be installed in gearcase cover (17) as described in
BUSHING INSTALLATION on page 3-43. Attach gearcase cover to right crankcase half (10), which has been
disassembled from left crankcase half, securing with a
minimum of three mounting screws.
1.
See Figure 3-51. Rear intake cam gear bushing (15)
must be installed in gearcase cover (17) as described in
BUSHING INSTALLATION on page 3-43.
2.
Identify the previously reamed rear intake cam gear
bushing (13) in right crankcase half (10), which has been
disassembled from left crankcase half. Insert the shank
end of REAR INTAKE CAMSHAFT BUSHING REAMER
(Part No. HD-94803-67) through gearcase side of this
bushing.
3.
With reamer inserted into bushing in right crankcase half,
attach gearcase cover to right crankcase half, securing
with a minimum of three mounting screws.
4.
Turn reamer clockwise through bushing in gearcase
cover until reamer bottoms. Then give reamer one complete clockwise turn to size the bushing. Continue turning
reamer clockwise while extracting reamer from bushing.
5.
Separate gearcase cover from right crankcase half.
Inspect bushing for proper cam gear shaft fit. Repeat line
reaming operation if necessary.
6.
Thoroughly clean gearcase cover, removing all metal
chips/shavings. Blow out all oil passages using compressed air.
3534a
Camshaft Bushing Reamer
Pilot (Part No. HD-38871)
PINION SHAFT BUSHING IN GEARCASE COVER
Figure 3-59. Reaming Cam Gear Bushing in Right
Crankcase Half
2.
Insert a standard 11/16 in. diameter reamer through the
previously reamed cam gear bushing (13) in right crankcase half, which is in line with one of the bushings to be
reamed in gearcase cover.
3.
Turn reamer clockwise through bushing in cover until
reamer bottoms. Then give reamer one complete clockwise turn to size the bushing. Continue turning reamer
clockwise while extracting reamer from bushing.
4.
Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for remaining two cam gear bushings (except rear intake bushing) in gearcase cover, if
required.
5.
Separate gearcase cover from right crankcase half.
Inspect bushings for proper cam gear shaft fit. Repeat
line reaming operation if necessary.
6.
Thoroughly clean gearcase cover, removing all metal
chips/shavings. Blow out all oil passages using compressed air.
NOTE
A newly installed pinion shaft bushing in the gearcase cover
must be line reamed, using both the right crankcase half and
Part No. HD-94812-87 as pilots for the reamer, to establish
correct clearance and to ensure proper alignment. If crankcase halves are not separated on your motorcycle, use a
spare right crankcase half to perform the following line reaming procedures.
1.
See Figure 3-51. Pinion shaft bushing (16) must be
installed in gearcase cover (17) as described in BUSHING INSTALLATION on page 3-43. Attach gearcase
cover to right crankcase half (10), which has been disassembled from left crankcase half, securing with a minimum of three mounting screws.
2.
See Figure 3-60. Install PINION SHAFT BUSHING
REAMER PILOT (Part No. HD-94812-87) into right
crankcase roller race. Insert PINION SHAFT BUSHING
REAMER (Part No. HD-94812-1) through the pilot.
3.
Turn reamer clockwise through bushing in gearcase
cover until reamer bottoms. Then give reamer one complete clockwise turn to size the bushing. Continue turning
reamer clockwise while extracting reamer from bushing.
4.
Separate gearcase cover from right crankcase half.
Inspect bushing for proper pinion shaft fit. Repeat line
reaming operation if necessary.
5.
Remove pilot from right crankcase roller race. Thoroughly clean gearcase cover, removing all metal chips/
shavings. Blow out all oil passages using compressed
air.
REAR INTAKE CAM GEAR BUSHING IN
GEARCASE COVER
NOTE
A newly installed rear intake cam gear bushing in the gearcase cover must be line reamed, using the right crankcase
half as a pilot for the reamer, to establish correct clearance
and to ensure perfect alignment. If crankcase halves are not
separated on your motorcycle, use a spare right crankcase
half to perform the following line reaming procedures.
3-45
3545a
Pinion Shaft Bushing Reamer
Pilot (Part No. HD-94812-87)
b0178x3x
Pinion Shaft Bushing Reamer
(Part No. HD-94812-1)
Timing mark at
centerline of
keyway
Pinion gear
Figure 3-61. Pinion Gear Timing Mark and Keyway
Figure 3-60. Line Reaming Pinion Shaft Bushing
b0166x3x
4
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 3-51. Install oil pump drive gear (12) and pinion gear (5) to pinion shaft. Note that timing mark on pinion gear tooth is aligned with keyway in ID of pinion gear,
as shown in Figure 3-61. See Figure 3-62. The timing
mark will allow you to easily position pinion gear (1) over
shaft key (2) and against oil pump drive gear (3) on pinion shaft (4).
2.
See Figure 3-51. Clean pinion shaft threads and nut (11)
threads. Apply several drops of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red) to threads of nut. Install nut to pinion
shaft, tightening to 35-45 ft-lbs (47-61 Nm).
3.
See Table 3-9 and Figures 3-53 and 3-54. Liberally apply
engine oil to bushings, shafts, and gears. Install all cam
gears into bushings of right crankcase half, properly
aligning timing marks of cam gears and pinion gear as
shown in Figure 3-54.
NOTE
Because of the larger diameter additional gear (which
meshes with the pinion gear) on the outboard end of the rear
intake (15-2) cam gear, the rear exhaust (15-1) and front
intake (15-3) cam gears must both be installed before the rear
intake (15-2) cam gear is installed.
4.
See Figure 3-51. Install a new seal (6) and new dry gasket (9) on gearcase cover (17).
5.
Install gearcase cover over all gears and onto right
crankcase half (10). Secure cover to crankcase half with
11 socket head screws. Tighten screws evenly to 80110 in-lbs (9.0-12.4 Nm) according to the torque
sequence shown in Figure 3-63.
3-46
2
3
1
1.
2.
Pinion gear
Shaft key
3.
4.
Oil pump drive gear
Pinion shaft
Figure 3-62. Oil Pump Drive Gear and Pinion Gear
Installed on Pinion Shaft
6.
Check cam gear end play for each cam gear as follows:
a.
Turn engine over until lobe of cam gear being
checked is pointing toward its respective tappet
guide hole.
b.
Using a flat blade screwdriver, gently pry the cam
gear toward gearcase cover.
c.
Using a feeler gauge, measure gap between bushing (in crankcase half) and cam gear shaft thrust
face (shoulder). This is cam gear end play.
d.
Compare your cam gear end play measurements
with the SPECIFICATIONS on page 3-3. Make
repairs as required if end gap is less than the minimum specified, or greater than the maximum specified (Service Wear Limits).
7.
Install valve tappets and push rods. See VALVE TAPPETS, INSTALLATION on page 3-39.
8.
Install ignition system. See Section 7.
9.
Install any components removed to gain access to gearcase (i.e. exhaust system components, air cleaner, etc.).
b0064a3x
8
3
1
9
7
10
11
6
4
2
5
Figure 3-63. Gearcase Cover Mounting Screw
Torque Sequence
3-47
CRANKCASE
GENERAL
4.
When rod bearings, pinion shaft bearing or sprocket shaft
bearing are in need of repair, the engine must be removed
from the chassis. See REMOVING ENGINE CRANKCASE
OR COMPLETE ENGINE on page 3-8. It is recommended
procedure to check and make repairs to cylinder heads, cylinders, gearcase and transmission at the same time (perform
entire engine overhaul).
1CAUTION
If engine is removed from chassis, do not lay engine on
primary side. Placing engine on primary side will damage
clutch cable end fitting. If fitting is damaged, clutch cable
must be replaced.
ADJUSTMENT/TESTING
Flywheel End Play
See Figure 3-64. Before completely disassembling crankcases, check flywheel end play.
3536a
Rotate and push on sprocket shaft while reading dial
indicator. Then rotate and pull on sprocket shaft while
reading dial indicator. If difference (end play) in indicator
readings is not 0.001-0.005 in. (0.025-0.13 mm), bearing
inner spacer (shim) (item 6, Figure 3-68.) must be
replaced. Choose spacer from Table 3-11. Use a thinner
spacer for less end play; use a thicker spacer for more
end play.
Table 3-11. Flywheel End Play
Spacers (Shims)
THICKNESS
PART
NUMBER
IN.
MM
9155
0.0975-0.0985
2.476-2.502
9142
0.0995 - 0.1005
2.527-2.553
9143
0.1015-0.1025
2.578-2.603
9144
0.1035 - 0.1045
2.629-2.654
9145
0.1055 - 0.1065
2.680-2.705
9146
0.1075 - 0.1085
2.730-2.756
9147
0.1095 - 0.1105
2.781-2.807
9148
0.1115 - 0.1125
2.832-2.857
9149
0.1135 - 0.1145
2.883-2.908
DISASSEMBLY
Crankcase Halves
1.
Figure 3-64. Checking Flywheel End Play
1.
After engine has been removed from chassis, securely
fasten it to a stand or workbench.
2.
Remove gearcase cover. Attach a dial indicator to gear
side crankcase with indicator stem on end of gearshaft.
3.
Sprocket shaft bearings must be preloaded to obtain an
accurate flywheel end play reading. A suitable tool can
be made by welding two handles to an old sprocket shaft
nut. Install the nut and sprocket. Tighten nut to 150165 ft-lbs (203-224 Nm).
3-48
Remove cylinder heads as described under CYLINDER
HEAD, REMOVAL on page 3-11.
1CAUTION
After removing cylinders, install plastic or rubber hose
over cylinder studs. Lifting or moving crankcase by
grasping studs will cause cylinder stud damage.
2.
Remove cylinders and pistons. See CYLINDER AND
PISTON, REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY on page 3-22.
3.
Remove oil pump as described under OIL PUMP,
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY on page 3-35.
4.
Remove gearcase components. See GEARCASE
COVER AND CAM GEARS, REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
on page 3-40.
5.
Remove clutch and primary drive components. See PRIMARY DRIVE/CLUTCH in Section 6.
b0069a3x
2
2
1
2
3
2
4
1.
2.
3.
4.
Crankcase
Upper case hex socket head screw – 5/16-18 X 2-1/2 in. long (4)
Bottom case hex head bolt – 1/4-20 X 3/4 in. long (3)
Muffler mount bolt – 3/8-16 X 5-1/2 in. long (2, with washers and locknuts)
Figure 3-65. Crankcase Hardware
6.
Remove starter motor as described under STARTER,
REMOVAL in Section 5.
7.
Remove transmission. See TRANSMISSION CASE in
Section 6.
8.
See Figure 3-65. Remove screws (2) and rear engine
mount bolt securing crankcase halves together.
9.
Position crankcase on work bench, gearcase side up.
Tap crankcase with plastic mallet to loosen top half and
separate the halves.
1WARNING
The following step requires using a press. Wear eye protection and make certain set-up is stable. The force
involved could cause parts to “fly out” and cause personal injury.
10. See Figure 3-66. Mount the left case half and flywheel
assembly on a press table, supporting crankcase on parallel bars. Press on end of sprocket shaft with arbor
press until flywheel assembly is free from case half. Do
not drive flywheel assembly from case half as flywheels
may be knocked out of alignment.
3-49
NOTE
See Figure 3-68. If it is necessary to remove either the pinion
shaft bearing (11) or sprocket shaft bearing (4 and 9), proceed as follows:
3528a
11. Pinion bearing (11) will remain on pinion shaft. Remove
retaining ring (10), and bearing (11) may be slipped off
pinion shaft.
12. See Figure 3-69. Pull sprocket shaft bearing with
WEDGE ATTACHMENT FOR CLAW PULLER (Part No.
HD-95637-46A) and ALL PURPOSE CLAW PULLER
(Part No. HD-95635-46) using bolts in place of jaws.
13. See Figure 3-67. Use CRANKSHAFT BEARING TOOL
(Part No. HD-94547-101) to remove sprocket shaft outer
races.
Press on end of sprocket
shaft with an arbor press
NOTE
See Figure 3-68. Do not remove retaining ring (7); the crankcase can easily be damaged during the removal process.
Removal of the retaining ring is not necessary for the removal
or installation of the outer bearing races.
Flywheels
1.
See Figure 3-70. Place flywheel assembly in holding fixture. Remove crank pin nut (1). Strike left flywheel with
soft metal mallet at about 90° from crank pin hole on
wheel periphery to loosen. Lift left flywheel (2) off crank
pin.
2.
Hold down crank pin bearing assembly (4) with a short
length of pipe or tubing so connecting rods (3) may be
slipped off bearings, then remove bearing assembly.
Secure bearings (4) together in set until they are washed
and refitted to crank pin.
3.
Figure 3-66. Pressing Flywheel from Crankcase
2809
Remove crank pin nut (9), then tap crank pin (6) out of
flywheel and remove key (7).
CLEANING/INSPECTION
1.
Wash all parts in solvent and blow dry with compressed
air. Examine crank pin for wear, grooving and pitting. If
the surface is at all worn, replace with new pin. Examine
flywheel washers. If either washer is worn or grooved, it
should be replaced. See REPLACING FLYWHEEL
WASHERS on page 3-51.
2.
Examine connecting rod lower races. If they appear
slightly grooved or shouldered where edge of bearing
rollers ride, they may be lapped out, and an oversize
crank pin and new bearing installed. If they appear badly
worn, grooved or pitted, new rods should be installed,
preferably as an assembly with new bearings and crank
pin.
3.
Inspect bearing for wear, pitting and heat discoloration.
Replace as required.
4.
Inspect crank pin, crank pin roller and connecting rods for
correct freeplay.
3-50
Crankshaft Bearing Tool
(Part No. HD-9457-101)
Figure 3-67. Sprocket Shaft Outer Race Removal
b0130x3x
3
4
6
5
1
13
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
10 11
Right crankcase half
Left crankcase half
Connecting rod and flywheel
assembly
Sprocket right bearing
Sprocket right outer race
Spacer
Retaining ring
12
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
2
7
8
9
Sprocket left outer race
Sprocket left bearing
Retaining ring
Pinion shaft bearing
Pinion shaft bearing inner race
Pinion shaft bearing outer race
Figure 3-68. Crankcase and Flywheel Assembly
Replacing Flywheel Washers
2810a
Replace worn flywheel washers as follows:
1.
1
See Figure 3-70. The washer (10) is a close fit in flywheel
recess and is secured originally by punching flywheel
metal tight against the washer at several points. It is usually necessary to drill a small hole (1/8 in. (3.2 mm) or
smaller) at the outer edge of the washer to permit prying
with a pointed tool.
2
NOTE
Drill hole only slightly deeper than thickness of washer. Avoid
removing more material than necessary.
2.
Before installing a new washer, scrape outer edge of
recess, where metal was punched against original
washer, so new washer will seat fully against recess bottom. If washer does not seat fully, forked rod will not have
necessary clearance (side play).
1CAUTION
Be sure stepped thrust washers are installed with step
facing crank pin bearing. Improper installation will damage washer and bearing set and cause accelerated wear
and increased noise.
3.
Carefully tap new washers into place and using a punch,
peen metal over edge to retain washer.
1.
2.
All purpose claw puller (Part No. H-D 95637-46)
Wedge attachment (Part No. H-D 95637-46A)
Figure 3-69. Removing Sprocket Shaft Roller
Bearing
3-51
1
b0059x3x
3
2
10
4
7
6
10
Counterbore for
stepped washer (10)
Under cut
(shaded area)
5
8
9
NOTE
Same configuration on both flywheels.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Crank pin nut (sprocket side)
Flywheel (sprocket side)
Connecting rods
Crank pin roller and retaining set
Flywheel (gear side)
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Crank pin
Crank pin key
Crank pin nut (gear side)
Pinion bearing inner race
Flywheel washer (2)
Figure 3-70. Flywheel and Connecting Rod Assembly
Lapping Connecting Rod Races
Connecting rod lower races that are likely to clean up within
range of oversize bearing rollers and are otherwise in serviceable condition, should be trued and sized with CONNECTING
ROD LAPPING ARBOR (Part No. HD-96740-36).
NOTE
A loose lap will BELL MOUTH bearing races, so lap must be
kept adjusted at all times.
4.
Start lathe and work rod back and forth, over full length of
lap. Hold rod as near race end as possible.
1.
Clean lap before using.
5.
2.
See Figure 3-71. Clamp lap into lathe chuck, carefully
load lap with #220 grit grinding compound, mixed with oil.
Adjust lathe to turn at approximately 150-200 RPM.
Check rod frequently. When rod is lapped true and all
traces of pit marks or grooves are cleaned up, wash and
blow rod dry.
6.
Repeat lapping procedure for other rod race.
7.
Bearing races should have a soft velvety appearance
and be free of shiny spots.
3.
Carefully slide connecting rod over lap. Adjust lap to a
dragging, but free, fit in rod race.
3-52
2182
3032a
Coat arbor with #220 grit
grinding compound and oil
Connecting Rod Lapping
Arbor (Part No. HD-96740-36)
Front rod bearing
Rear rod bearings
Figure 3-72. Crank Pin Bearing Set
Figure 3-71. Lapping Connecting Rod Races
3033a
Fitting Rod Bearings
See Figure 3-72. The new crank pin bearing set packages
are color coded with either a red or blue identification. This
color coding is used by the bearing manufacturer only. The
color coding DOES NOT indicate size selection for crank pin
bearing replacement.
1CAUTION
Either a red or a blue coded bearing set may be used. DO
NOT intermix bearings from a red and a blue bearing set
because this may cause excessive loading on one bearing, resulting in premature bearing failure.
The bearings consist of rollers retained in steel cages.
The wide bearing (male/front rod) retains rollers both
internally and externally. The two narrow bearings
(female/rear rod) only retain the rollers externally, so care
must be taken to slide the bearing set directly from the
inner sleeve onto the crank pin; this will prevent the rollers from dropping out of the cage.
Only one size replacement bearing set (standard, either
red or blue coding) is sold. Oversize bearings are not
available. Bearing clearance or fit is controlled by the
connecting rod race inside diameters and the crank pin
diameter. Two oversize crank pins are available.
1.
See Figure 3-73. Measure inside diameter (ID) of lapped
connecting rod races with a dial bore gauge that has
0.0001 in. (0.0025 mm) graduations. Measure the ID at
four places as shown. Record the four measurements. If
any race ID exceeds Service Wear Limit of 1.6270 in.
(41.326 mm), replace races or connecting rod set. If race
ID measurements are less than 1.6270 in. (41.326 mm),
continue procedure as follows:
b0179x3x
Measure ID of each race
at four locations
Figure 3-73. Measuring Connecting Rod Race
Inside Diameter
3-53
2.
Compare the measurements recorded in Step 1 with the
ranges given in Table 3-12. If the four measurements
taken in each race differ, use the smallest measurements.
NOTE
Front and rear rod race ID must be within the same tolerance
range given in the above table. The following example will
illustrate the procedure necessary if the lapped connecting
rod races on both rods do not fall in the same range.
Table 3-12. Race Diameter and
Crank Pin Size
CONNECTING ROD
RACE ID REQUIRED
CRANK PIN
REQUIRED
1.6245-1.6250 in.
(41.262-41.275 mm)
Standard
1.6255-1.6260 in.
(41.288-41.300 mm)
0.0010 in. oversize (0.025 mm)
1.6265-1.6270 in.
(41.313-41.326 mm)
0.0020 in. oversize (0.051 mm)
As an example, assign the following values to the measurements taken in Step 1.
Front connecting rod race diameter: 1.6255 in.
(41.288 mm)
Rear connecting rod race diameter: 1.6250 in.
(41.275 mm)
See Table 3-12. For the above example measurements, the
front connecting rod would require a 0.0010 in. (0.025 mm)
oversize crank pin, while the rear connecting rod could use
the standard sized crank pin. The rear connecting rod races
must be lapped so they have the same ID (within 0.0002 in.
(0.005 mm)) as the front rod.
4.
5.
See Figure 3-74. Oversize (OS) crank pins are available
in two oversizes: 0.0010 and 0.0020 in. (0.025 and 0.051
mm) OS crank pins will have a blue or red paint dot
applied to the ends of the pins. A blue dot indicates
0.0010 in. (0.025 mm) OS, a red dot indicates 0.0020 in.
(0.051 mm) OS. Standard size crank pins will not be
marked.
Before assembling the flywheel assembly, recheck connecting rods as follows:
3-54
Paint dot
Blue = 0.0010 in OS (0.025 mm)
Red = 0.0020 in OS (0.051 mm)
Figure 3-74. Oversize Crank Pin Identification
1CAUTION
After the appropriate connecting rod race ID range specified in RACE DIAMETER AND CRANK PIN SIZE table has
been achieved, verify that the following CONNECTING
ROD SPECIFICATIONS are also met:
CONNECTING ROD SPECIFICATION
Greater than 1.6270 in. Service Wear Limit exceeded.
(41.326 mm)
Replace races or connecting rod
set.
3.
b0061x3x
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Difference in ID of two races must not
exceed 0.0001 in. (0.0025 mm).
Front and rear . . . . . . Difference in ID of races in front and
rear connecting rods must not exceed
0.0002 in. (0.005 mm).
Front and rear . . . . . . Races must be round within
0.00025 in. (0.0064 mm). (Difference
between largest and smallest ID measurement in any race must not exceed
0.00025 in. (0.0064 mm)).
NOTE
Always use new bearings and crank pin after resizing (lapping) connecting rods to insure proper running clearance.
1CAUTION
Fitting components tighter than recommended may result
in seizing and bearing damage when heat expands the
parts. Such damage requires component replacement.
Fitting Sprocket Bearings
If flywheel end play is within tolerance, and if tapered roller
bearings and races pass visual check and have no apparent
wear, the same set may be reinstalled. Make certain all parts
of bearing are installed in exactly the same order in which
they were removed. If any part of bearing assembly is worn,
entire assembly should be replaced.
Fitting Pinion Bearings
See Figure 3-68. A pressed-in bushing in the right crankcase
half is the outer race (13). The inner race (12) is pressed on
the pinion shaft.
See Figure 3-75. To remove pinion shaft inner race, use TWO
CLAW PULLER (Part No. HD-97292-61), CENTER CAP (Part
HD-95652-43A), and BEARING SEPARATOR (SNAP-ON
TOOLS Stock No. CJ950). Apply heat to race to aid removal.
Four sizes of pinion bearings are available. Pinion bearing
selection at the factory, during engine rebuild, or replacement
of crankcase set or flywheel assembly is based on the largest
measured outside diameter (OD) of the inner race and the
smallest measured inside diameter (ID) of the outer race
(crankcase bushing). A running clearance of 0.00020.0008 in. (0.005-0.020 mm) is established during crankcase
set or flywheel assembly replacement and engine rebuild.
b0060x3x
Inner
race
Paint dot
See Figure 3-76. Installed inner races are identified at the factory as shown.
See Figure 3-77. Outer races are identified at the factory as
shown.
RACE OD
CLASS
IDENTIFICATION*
1.2498-1.2500 in.
(31.745-31.750 mm)
A
White
1.2496-1.2498 in.
(31.740-31.745 mm)
B
Green
3106a
* Paint dot on end of spline
Service Wear Limit: 1.2492 in.
1
Figure 3-76. Factory Inner Race Sizes
b0176x3x
Outer race
2
ID
Right crankcase half
3
Stamped
class no.
1.
2.
3.
Puller (Part No. HD-97292-61)
Center cap (Part No. HD-95652-43A)
Bearing separator (Snap-On Part No. CJ950)
Figure 3-75. Pulling Pinion Shaft Inner Race
RACE ID
CLASS
NO.
STAMPED
IDENTIFICATION*
1.5646-1.5648 in.
(39.741-39.746 mm)
1
1
1.5648-1.5650 in.
(39.746-39751 mm)
2
2
1.5650-1.5652 in.
(39.751-39756 mm)
3
3
* Stamped number inside crankcase near race
Service Wear Limit: 1.5672 in.
Figure 3-77. Factory Outer Race Sizes
3-55
NOTE
The different sizes of crankcase sets and flywheel assemblies
will not have separate part numbers. That is, a replacement
crankcase set may have a class 1, 2 or 3 pinion outer race.
Replacement flywheel assemblies will have either a class A
or B inner race.
b0065x3x
A – Roller OD cannot
be measured
to required accuracy with
micrometer
See Figure 3-78. Pinion bearings are identified as shown.
BEARING SELECTION
Select bearings using the identification information given for
inner and outer races and bearings. See Table 3-13.
NOTE
If either inner or outer race show wear, measure both races to
confirm correct bearing fit.
1.
Measure ID of outer race at four places with a dial bore
gauge. Take measurement on ID where bearing rollers
ride. Record the four measurements.
2.
If the largest measurement is larger than 1.5672 in.
(39.807 mm) or the required lapping to remove wear
marks would enlarge bore beyond 1.5672 in., continue at
Step 8.
3.
If the largest measurement is 1.5672 in. (39.807 mm) or
less, cover the cam bearings with masking tape to prevent debris from entering bearings. Assemble crankcase
halves.
ROLLER OD (A)
Largest
Smallest
See LAPPING ENGINE MAIN BEARING RACES on
page 3-58. Race must be lapped until all wear marks are
removed.
5.
Measure ID of race at four places and record the measurements.
6.
Check measurements against these specifications:
Largest ID measured: 1.5672 in. (39.807 mm) or less
Roundness of ID: within 0.0002 in. (0.005 mm)
Taper: within 0.0002 in. (0.005)
7.
If lapping increased bore ID to larger than 1.5672 in.
(39.807 mm), go to Step 8. If roundness or taper do not
meet specifications, continue lapping until specifications
are met. If all specifications are met, continue at Step 10
to remove and size inner race.
8.
Press the outer race from the right crankcase. Press new
outer race into crankcase flush with inside edge of castin insert.
See Figure 3-80. Dimensions are shown for fabrication of
tools used in pressing the outer race into or out of crankcase.
9.
The new outer race must be lapped slightly to true and
align with left case bearing and to meet the following
specifications. See LAPPING ENGINE MAIN BEARING
RACES on page 3-58.
ID: 1.5646 - 1.5652 in. (39.741 - 39.756 mm)
Roundness: within 0.0002 in. (0.005 mm)
Taper: within 0.0002 in. (0.005 mm)
Surface finish: 16 RMS
3-56
Red
Blue
White (Grey)
Green
Figure 3-78. Bearing Identification
b0165x3x
1.145 in.
(29.08 mm)
1.135 in.
(28.83 mm)
NOTE
The next step requires lapping the outer race. To keep
sprocket shaft and pinion shaft bearings aligned the lap must
be supported by an adaptor or pilot in the left crankcase half.
4.
IDENTIFICATION
(Package color)
2
1
1.
2.
Pinion shaft inner race
Flywheel (gear side)
Figure 3-79. Inner Race Location
Table 3-13. Pinion Shaft Bearing Selection
FACTORY
STAMPED
NUMBER
OUTER RACE ID
BEARING SIZE AS IDENTIFIED BY COLOR CODING
over 1.5672 in.
39.807 mm
Service Wear Limit Exceeded – Replace Outer Race and Resize
1.5670-1.5672 in.
39.802-39.807 mm
Red
1.5668-1.5670 in.
39.797-39.802 mm
1.5666-1.5668 in.
39.792-39.797 mm
Red
1.5664-1.5666 in.
39.787-39.792 mm
Red
Blue
Red
Blue
White-Gray
Red
Blue
White-Gray
Green
Red
Blue
White-Gray
Green
Red
Blue
White-Gray
Green
Red
Blue
White-Gray
Green
Red
Blue
White-Gray
Green
Green
1.5662-1.5664 in.
39.781-39-787 mm
1.5660-1.5662 in.
39.776-39.781 mm
1.5658-1.5660 in.
39.771-39.776 mm
1.5656-1.5658 in.
39.766-39.771 mm
1.5654-1.5656 in.
39.761-39.766 mm
1.5652-1.5654 in.
39.756-39.761 mm
3
1.5650-1.5652 in.
39.751-39.756 mm
Red
Blue
White-Gray
2
1.5648-1.5650 in.
39.746-39.751 mm
Blue
WhiteGray
Green
1
1.5646-1.5648 in.
39.741-39.746 mm
WhiteGray
Green
1.24961.2498 in.
1.24981.2500 in.
INNER
RACE OD (In)
1.25001.2502 in.
1.25021.2504 in.
1.25041.2506 in.
1.25061.2508 in.
1.25081.2510 in.
1.25101.2512 in.
1.25121.2514 in.
Red
Blue
Blue
White-Gray
White-Gray Green
Green
1.25141.2516 in.
1.25161.2518 in.
31.740
31.745
31.75031.75531.76031.76531.77031.77531.78031.7863.79131.745 mm 31.750 mm 31.755 mm 31.760 mm 31.765 mm 31.770 mm 31.755 mm 31.780 mm 31.786 mm 31.791 mm 31.796 mm
FACTORY COLOR CODE
Green
White
10. See Figure 3-75. Pull inner race from pinion shaft using
TWO CLAW PULLER (Part No. HD-97292-61), CENTER
CAP (Part No. HD-95652-43A), and BEARING SEPARATOR (SNAP-ON TOOLS Stock No. CJ950). Apply heat to
race to aid removal.
EXAMPLE:
11. See Figure 3-79. Press new inner race on pinion shaft as
shown. The new inner race must be ground by a competent machinist to OD dimension range given in the PINION SHAFT BEARING SELECTION TABLE, for the
finished lapped ID of the outer race. The finished inner
race must meet these specifications. For necessary
dimensions for constructing a press-on tool see Figure 380. When the tool bottoms against the flywheel, correct
inner race location is automatically established.
NOTE
Have machinist grind outer race to center or middle of
required OD range. This will prevent grinding outer race
undersize and gives a more easily achieved tolerance range.
Roundness: within 0.0002 in.
Taper: within 0.0002 in. (0.005 mm)
Surface finish: 16 RMS
12. The following example illustrates how to determine the
required inner race OD.
a.
If smallest measured ID of outer race is 1.5651 in.
(39.754 mm) Table 13 indicates an inner race OD
range of 1.2496-1.2504 in. (31.740 - 31.760 mm) is
required.
b.
Grind inner race. Measure OD at four places and
check that specifications in Step 11 are met.
c.
For example purposes, the largest measured OD of
inner race after grinding is 1.2499 in. (31.747 mm)
OD.
d.
See Table 3-13. With a 1.5651 in. ID outer race and
a 1.2499 in. (31.747 mm) OD inner race, a blue
bearing is required.
NOTE
Always use the smallest outer race ID measurement and the
largest OD inner race measurement when selecting bearings.
3-57
b0177x3x
Pinion outer race
installation
3546a
Crankcase Main
Bearing Lapping Tool
(Part No. HD-96710-40B)
2.00"
(50.8 mm)
.187" (4.75 mm)
5/16"
(7.94 mm)
DRILL
1.00
(25.4 mm)
1.560"
(39.62 mm)
Pinion outer race
removal
.187" (4.75 mm)
1.00"
(25.4 mm)
5/16"
(7.94 mm)
DRILL
1.560"
(39.62 mm)
1.50" (38.1 mm)
1.00"
(25.4 mm)
Pinion inner race
installation
Figure 3-81. Lapping Pinion Shaft Main Bearing
bushing surface has a dull, satin finish rather than a
glossy, smooth appearance. If necessary, flush off lap in
cleaning solvent, air dry and apply fresh, light coat of fine
lapping compound.
5.50" (139.7 mm)
ASSEMBLY
1.145" (29.08 mm)
1.135" (28.83 mm)
1.272" (32.31 mm)
1.262" (32.05 mm)
Flywheels
After correct connecting rod bearing fit has been attained,
clean and assemble parts as follows:
1.
Carefully clean all flywheel components using a nonpetroleum-based solvent, such as LOCTITE CLEANING
SOLVENT or electrical contact cleaner. Thoroughly dry
all components.
2.
See Figure 3-70. Apply two drops of LOCTITE 620
RETAINING COMPOUND to the crank pin threads, and
apply no more than two drops to the nut bearing faces.
Figure 3-80. Pinion Shaft Bearing Tools
Lapping Engine Main Bearing Races
1.
Secure right and left crankcase halves with three crankcase stud bolts (top center and bottom left and right). The
sprocket shaft bearing outer races and large spacer must
be installed in left crankcase.
2.
See Figure 3-81. Obtain CRANKCASE MAIN BEARING
LAPPING TOOL (Part No. HD-96710-40B). Assemble
CRANKCASE MAIN BEARING LAP (Part No. HD96718-87) to lapping handle. Assemble guide sleeve to
sprocket shaft bearing bushing. Sleeves, for use with
tapered bearing, are assembled to case with bearings
and small spacer collar. Finger-tighten the sleeve parts.
3.
4.
5.
Insert lap shaft with arbor assembled through pinion
bearing bushing and into guide sleeve. Tighten arbor
expansion collars using a length of 0.156 in. (3.96 mm)
rod as spanner until arbor begins to drag. Do not adjust
arbor snug in bushing or bushing will “bell,” a condition
where hole is larger at ends than it is in the center.
Withdraw arbor far enough to coat lightly with 220 grit
lapping compound. Do not apply a heavy coat. Reposition lap in bushing and turn handle at moderate hand
speed. Work lap back and forth in bushing, as it is
revolved, to avoid grooving and tapering.
At frequent intervals, remove lap from crankcase wash
and inspect bushing. Lapping is completed when entire
3-58
1CAUTION
Do not apply any LOCTITE THREADLOCKER COMPOUND or RETAINING COMPOUND to shaft tapers. Any
material on shaft tapers will cause component damage.
3.
Assemble crank pin (6) to gear-side flywheel (5) making
sure that key (7) is in proper position. Tighten crank pin
nut. See SPECIFICATIONS for proper torque.
4.
Position gear-side flywheel assembly in a flywheel fixture
with crank pin pointing up. Wipe crank pin taper clean.
5.
See Figure 3-82. Slip bearings, and connecting rods over
crank pin. Assemble angular boss of the female rod adjacent to large radius side of the male rod as shown. The
side of the male rod with the larger radius is narrower in
the area where it fits between the forks of the female rod.
6.
Verify that oil passages through pinion shaft, gear-side
flywheel and crank pin are clear by blowing compressed
air into oil galley at end of pinion shaft.
7.
Install sprocket-side flywheel. Lightly tighten nut.
8.
See Figure 3-83. Hold steel straightedge along outer face
of wheel rims at 90° from crank pin as shown. Tap outer
b0167x3x
Note position of boss
Male rod – assemble to front cylinder
Forked or female rod –
assemble to rear cylinder
Large radius
Note position
of radius
MALE ROD
Figure 3-82. Installing Connecting Rods
rim of top wheel until wheels are concentric. Tighten nut,
recheck with straightedge at frequent intervals.
xlh0381
NOTE
Use soft metal hammer to realign wheels.
9.
Tighten crank pin nut to 150-185 ft-lbs (203-251 Nm).
See Figure 3-85. Install flywheel assembly in FLYWHEEL
TRUING STAND (Part No. HD-96650-80) as shown.
Adjust so centers are snug. Wheels must turn freely;
however, shafts must not be loose in centers. If flywheel
assembly is either loose or squeezed, indicators will not
indicate accurately. Adjust indicators to take reading as
near to flywheels as possible, so pointers read at about
the middle of the scales.
10. Turn flywheels slowly and observe the movement of indicator pointers. Movement toward flywheels indicate high
points of shafts. Find highest point of each shaft and
chalk-mark flywheel rims at those points. Remove flywheel from stand and make corrections as follows:
11. See Figure 3-84. Flywheel may be out of true three ways,
A, B and C or a combination of two of the three ways.
12. When wheels are both out of true as indicated in A,
tighten C-clamp on rims or wheels opposite crank pin
and lightly tap the rim at the crank pin with lead or copper
mallet.
13. When wheels are both out of true as indicated in B, drive
a hardwood wedge between the wheels opposite the
crank pin and lightly tap the rims near the crank pin with
a lead or copper mallet.
14. When wheels are out of true as indicated in C, strike the
rim of the wheel a firm blow at about 90° from crank pin
on high side.
Figure 3-83. Squaring Flywheel Faces
15. When wheels are out of true in a combination of any of
the conditions shown, correct C first, tapping rim of
offending wheel only, and then correct condition A or B.
NOTE
The number of blows required and how hard they should be
struck depends on how far shafts are out of true and how tight
nuts are drawn. Always remove the flywheels from the stand,
and strike the flywheel rim only at 90° to the crank pin. Use
only a soft metal mallet. Never strike wheels a hard blow near
crank pin. This could result in a broken crank pin.
16. See Figure 3-85. Readjust centers, revolve wheels and
take reading from indicator. Repeat truing operation until
indicated shaft runout does not exceed 0.001 in.
(0.025 mm) (each graduation on indicator is 0.002 in.
(0.05 mm)).
3-59
17. If it is impossible to true wheels, check for a cracked flywheel, damaged or enlarged tapered hole or a sprocket
or pinion shaft worn out-of-round at surface where indicator reading is being taken.
xlh0383
18. See Figure 3-86. When wheels are true, check connecting rod side play with thickness gauge as shown. If it is
greater than tolerance shown in SPECIFICATIONS,
CONNECTING ROD draw up crank pin nuts until within
tolerance. Insufficient play between rods and flywheel
face is caused by one of the following conditions:
a.
Flywheels and crank pin assembled with oil on
tapers and nut over-tightened. Disassemble, clean
and reassemble.
b.
New flywheel washers installed and not fully seated.
Disassemble, inspect, replace deepest seating flywheel or crank pin. As last resort, grind down width
of forked rod.
c.
Taper holes enlarged as a result of having been
taken apart several times. Replace deepest seating
wheel.
d.
Cracked flywheel at tapered hole. Replace flywheel.
Crank pin
Hardwood wedge
Figure 3-84. Correcting Flywheel Alignment
19. After rod side play is checked and adjusted, check that
crank pin nut is tightened to specified torque, again
check wheel trueness on truing device. Correct any
runout as above.
4179
Flywheel Truing Stand
(Part No. HD-96650-80)
Figure 3-85. Truing Flywheel
3-60
2812a
b0168x3x
2
1
Sprocket Shaft Bearing Outer Race
Installation Tool (Part No. HD-39458)
6
5
3
4
Figure 3-86. Checking Connecting Rod Sideplay
Crankcase Halves
Lubricate all parts with Harley-Davidson 20W50 engine oil,
and proceed as follows:
1.
See Figure 3-87. The original retaining ring (3) is left in
place to avoid damaging the bearing bore of the left
crankcase half (6). Verify that gap in retaining ring is
aligned with oil supply hole in bearing bore of left crankcase half.
NOTE
See Figure 3-87. USE SPROCKET SHAFT BEARING
OUTER RACE INSTALLATION TOOL (1-2 Part No. HD39458) to install left and right outer races (4, 5) of sprocket
shaft tapered roller bearings into left crankcase half (6).
Always install left outer race (4) prior to installing right outer
race (5); the installer base (1) is usable only when you follow
this sequence of race installation.
2.
Insert “SPORTSTER” end of installer base (1) into
inboard side of left crankcase half (6) bearing bore until
base contacts installed retaining ring (3).
3.
Position left outer race (4) over bearing bore on outboard
side of left crankcase half (6).
4.
Insert shaft of installer plug (2) through left outer race (4)
and into installer base (1). Press race into bore until
firmly seated against retaining ring (3).
5.
Insert “SPORTSTER” end of installer base (1) into outboard side of left crankcase half (6) bearing bore until
base contacts outboard surface of installed left outer
race (4).
6.
Position right outer race (5) over bearing bore on inboard
side of left crankcase half (6).
7.
Insert shaft of installer plug (2) through right outer race
(5) and into installer base (1). Press race into bore until
firmly seated against retaining ring (3).
1.
2.
3.
Installer base
Installer plug
Retaining ring
4.
5.
6.
Left outer race
Right outer race
Left crankcase half
Figure 3-87. Installing Sprocket Shaft Bearing
Outer Races
NOTE
See Figure 3-88. Use SPROCKET SHAFT BEARING/SEAL
INSTALLATION TOOL (1 - 8, Part No. HD-37047A) to install
sprocket shaft tapered roller bearings and seal.
8.
See Figure 3-89. Place bearing cone (3), small end
upward, over end of sprocket shaft. Position spacer (2)
over sprocket shaft with (radius) rounded end downward.
Thread nut driver (1) on sprocket shaft. Turn nut driver
onto shaft until nut bottoms at end of threads. Remove
nut driver and spacer (2).
9.
See Figure 3-88. Repeat procedure using spacers (3, 4,
5 and 6) until bearing cone bottoms against the shaft
shoulder.
10. See Figure 3-90. Position left crankcase over sprocket
shaft so that the shaft is through the bearing cups in the
bearing bore. Place the spacer that determines end play
(item 6 in Figure 3-68.) over sprocket shaft. Position left
bearing cone over end of shaft with small end downward.
Place spacer (2) over sprocket shaft with flat end downward. Thread nut driver (1) on sprocket shaft. Turn nut
driver onto shaft until threads bottom. Remove nut driver
and spacer. See Figure 3-88. Install spacers (3, 4 and 5)
and nut driver (1) in same manner, and tighten until bearing cones and spacer are drawn together.
11. Remove nut driver and spacer.
3-61
xlhsprtl
3533a
1
2
5
6
7
4
8
3
2
1.
Nut driver
2.
Spacer
1
Figure 3-90. Installing Left Crankcase
1.
2.
3.
4.
Nut driver
Spacer (0.75 in.)
Spacer (1.2 in.)
Spacer (1.6 in.)
5.
6.
7.
8.
Spacer (2.06 in.)
Spacer (2.5 in.)
Seal/spacer driver
Driver handle
4600
Figure 3-88. Sprocket Shaft Bearing/Seal
Installation Tool
3320a
1
2
3
Spacer
Seal (open side)
Figure 3-91. Install Spacer in Seal
13. See Figure 3-92. Center seal/spacer driver over seal, so
that the sleeve (smaller OD) seats between seal wall and
garter spring. Fit the sleeve of the driver handle into the
recess at the top of the seal/spacer driver. Using a rubber or plastic mallet, drive the seal and spacer simultaneously into the bore until the spacer makes solid
contact with the Timken bearing cage. Remove the driver
handle and seal/spacer driver.
1.
2.
Nut driver
Spacer
3.
Bearing cone
Figure 3-89. Installing Bearing Cone
12. See Figure 3-91. Install spacer in seal ID. With the open
(lipped) side facing outward, center seal/spacer assembly over bearing bore.
3-62
1CAUTION
Do not remove the spacer after installation or the new
seal will have to be discarded and the procedure
repeated.
14. Apply a thin coat of DOW CORNING SILASTIC or 3-M
800 sealant to crankcase joint faces.
b0066x3x
4598a
Install this
end up
2
3
Shoulder
4
1
Figure 3-93. Cylinder Studs
1.
2.
Crankcase
Rubber mallet
3.
4.
Driver handle
Seal/spacer driver
3531a
Figure 3-92. Install Bearing Seal/Spacer
15. Assemble crankcase halves together. See Figure 3-65.
Install hardware to secure crankcase halves. Tighten 1/4in. fasteners to 70-110 in-lbs (7.9-12.4 Nm), and 5/16-in.
fasteners to 15-18 ft-lbs (20-24 Nm).
16. See Figure 3-68. Lubricate pinion shaft bearing (11) with
engine oil. Slip bearing (11) on pinion shaft and into outer
race in right crankcase. Install new retaining ring (10) in
groove of pinion shaft bearing inner race (12).
17. See Figure 3-93. The cylinder studs have a shoulder at
the lower end.
Install cylinder studs
shoulder end down
18. Pack clean towels into crankcase opening.
19. Place a steel ball into a head bolt, then place the
unpainted end of the stud into the head bolt.
20. See Figure 3-94. Install the stud in the crankcase with
the shoulder end down. Tighten to 10 ft-lbs (13.6 Nm).
21. See Figure 3-65. Install crankcase in chassis using hardware shown.
22. Install transmission mainshaft sprocket. See TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION AND SHIFTER PAWL ADJUSTMENT in Section 6.
23. Install starter. See STARTER, INSTALLATION in Section 5.
24. Install primary drive components, clutch and clutch
release mechanism. See PRIMARY DRIVE/CLUTCH in
Section 6.
25. Apply two or three drops of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER
262 (red) on threads of sprocket shaft. Tighten front
sprocket nut to 150-165 ft-lbs (203-224 Nm).
Figure 3-94. Install Cylinder Stud
NOTE
Be sure to refill transmission with lubricant. See CLUTCH,
TRANSMISSION FLUID in Section 1.
26. Install transmission. See TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION AND SHIFTER PAWL ADJUSTMENT in Section 6.
3-63
27. Install oil pump. See OIL PUMP, ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION on page 3-36.
28. Install cylinders and pistons. See CYLINDER AND PISTON, ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION on page 3-27.
29. Install cylinder heads. See CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION on page 3-20.
3-64
30. Install cam gears, gearcase cover, tappet guides and
tappets. See GEARCASE COVER AND CAM GEARS,
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION on page 3-46.
31. Refer to INSTALLING THE ENGINE on page 3-10 and
perform the applicable steps.
32. Install ignition system and check/adjust engine ignition
timing. See IGNITION SYSTEM in Section 7.
INTERNAL ENGINE PASSAGES
RETURN OIL
FEED OIL
RETURN OIL
FEED OIL
4
SPECIFICATIONS
CARBURETOR JET SIZES
CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS
Main jet
195
Slow jet
42
FUEL TANK CAPACITY
Engine fast idle speed
(using enrichener circuit)
GALLONS
LITERS
Total (including reserve)
4.0
15.14
Reserve
0.6
2.27
ITEM
2000 RPM
Engine speed for setting ignition
timing-world models
950-1050 RPM
Engine speed for setting ignition
timing-California models
1150-1250 RPM
TORQUE
NOTES
Air cleaner backplate screw
7-9 ft-lbs
9.5-12.2 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue), page 4-19
Air cleaner cover rear screw
6-8 ft-lbs
8.1-10.8 Nm
page 4-19
Air cleaner front support screw
3-5 ft-lbs
4.1-6.8 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue), page 4-19
Canister clamp screws
6-8 ft-lbs
8.1-10.8 Nm
page 4-25
Cylinder head breather bolts
10-15 ft-lbs
13.6-20.3 Nm
HYLOMAR, page 4-19
Fuel cap flange screws
22-25 in-lbs
2.5-2.8 Nm
special pattern to tighten, page 4-21
Fuel supply valve screws
34-37 in-lbs
3.8-4.2 Nm
page 4-22
Fuel tank screw
9-11 ft-lbs
12.2-14.9 Nm
page 4-21
Intake manifold screws
6-10 ft-lbs
8.1-13.6 Nm
page 4-17
Snorkel tube screw
6-8 ft-lbs
8.1-10.8 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue), page 4-19
Tie bar bolts
30-33 ft-lbs
40.7-44.7 Nm
page 4-17
Torx ignition bracket screw
25-30 ft-lbs
33.9-40.7 Nm
page 4-17
4-1
CARBURETOR
GENERAL
5609
See Figure 4-1. Buell motorcycles use a constant-velocity,
gravity-fed carburetor. This carburetor features a float-operated inlet valve, a variable venturi, a throttle stop screw (for
idle speed adjustment) and a fuel enrichment system (for
starting).
1
Idle and transfer ports provide a balanced fuel mixture during
the transition period from stop to mid-range. A vacuum piston
controls venturi opening.
The carburetor is specifically designed to control exhaust
emissions. All jets are fixed. The idle mixture has been preset at the factory. The idle mixture screw is recessed in the
carburetor casting. The opening is sealed with a plug
because it is intended that the idle mixture be non-adjustable.
NOTE
Adjusting mixture setting by procedures other than specified
in this section may be in violation of Federal or State regulations.
This system partially compensates for changes in the mixture
that are normally caused by changes in altitude. Because
atmospheric pressures drop as altitude increases, the pressure difference in the upper and lower chambers is reduced;
this results in less fuel being delivered to the engine, thereby
maintaining the correct air/fuel ratio for better engine performance and reduced exhaust emissions.
The carburetor has a drain for emptying the float chamber
during seasonal or extended periods of storage.
The carburetor is equipped with an accelerator pump. The
accelerator pump system uses sudden throttle openings
(rapid accelerations) to quickly inject raw fuel into the carburetor venturi; this provides extra fuel for smooth acceleration.
4-2
3
2
1.
2.
Vacuum piston chamber
Float chamber
3.
Accelerator pump
Figure 4-1. Carburetor
Table 4-1. Fuel System Troubleshooting
OVERFLOW
Remedy:
1. Correct restricted hose. Replace vapor vent valve.
2. Tighten screws.
3. Replace O-ring.
4. Replace float assembly.
5. Clean and clear cavity and fuel supply tract.
6. Clean or replace valve and clean seat.
7. Adjust float tab for correct fuel level.
Check for:
1. Restricted fuel tank vent system.
2. Loose float bowl screws.
3. Damaged float bowl O-ring.
4. Damaged or leaking float assembly.
5. Particle contamination in fuel inlet fitting cavity.
6. Worn or dirty inlet valve or seat.
7. Improper fuel level in float bowl.
POOR IDLING
Remedy:
1. Adjust operating idle speed.
2. Correct as required.
3. Tighten jet.
4. Clean, clear and correct as required.
5. Adjust, clean or replace.
6. Repair.
Check for:
1. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
2. Inlet system air leak (faster idling).
3. Loose low speed jet.
4. Contaminated or plugged low speed system.
5. Enrichener valve not seated or leaking.
6. Leaking accelerator pump.
POOR FUEL ECONOMY
Remedy:
1. Limit system use.
2. Adjust, clean or replace.
3. Clean or replace as required.
4. Correct restricted hose. Replace vapor vent valve.
5. Modify riding habits.
6. Adjust operating idle speed.
7. Tighten jets.
8. Adjust float tab for correct fuel level.
9. Clean and clear passages.
10. Replace needle or needle jet.
11. See Vacuum Piston Troubleshooting on page 4-4.
12. Clean, clear and correct as required.
13. Check and clean accelerator pump bypass orifice.
Check for:
1. Excessive use of enrichener system.
2. Enrichener valve not seated or leaking.
3. Dirty air cleaner filter element.
4. Restricted fuel tank vent system.
5. High speed riding style.
6. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
7. Loose jets.
8. Fuel level too high.
9. Plugged or restricted bowl vent.
10. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
11. Vacuum piston assembly malfunction.
12. Plugged air jets or passages.
13. Excessive accelerator pump output.
POOR ACCELERATION
Remedy:
1. Adjust throttle cables.
2. Correct as required.
3. Correct restricted hose. Replace vapor vent valve.
4. Correct and clear restriction.
5. Clean and clear passages.
6. Adjust, clean or replace.
7. Replace assembly.
8. See Vacuum Piston Troubleshooting on page 4-4.
9. Clean and clear as required.
10. Adjust float tab for correct fuel level.
11. Repair as necessary.
Check for:
1. Throttle cables misaligned.
2. Inlet system air leak.
3. Restricted fuel tank vent system.
4. Restricted fuel supply passages.
5. Plugged bowl vent or overflow.
6. Enrichener valve not seated or leaking.
7. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
8. Vacuum piston malfunction.
9. Plugged jets or passages.
10. Fuel level too low.
11. Accelerator pump leaking or no output.
HARD STARTING
Check for:
1. Enrichener system plugged, not properly functioning or
improperly operated.
2. Inlet system air leak.
3. Restricted fuel supply.
4. Fuel overflow.
5. Plugged slow jet or passages.
Remedy:
1. Clean, adjust or replace; or read Owner’s Manual.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Correct as required.
Correct fuel supply or passages.
See Overflow Troubleshooting on page 4-3.
Clean, clear and correct as required.
4-3
Table 4-1. Fuel System Troubleshooting (cont.)
POOR PERFORMANCE ON ROAD
Check for:
1. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
2. Inlet system air leak.
3. Restricted fuel tank vent system.
4. Dirty or damaged air cleaner element.
5. Enrichener valve not seated or leaking.
6. Restricted fuel supply tract.
7. Plugged bowl vent or overflow.
8. Loose or plugged fuel and air jets or passages.
9. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
10. Vacuum piston assembly malfunction.
11. Accelerator pump inoperative.
Remedy:
1. Adjust operating idle speed.
2. Correct as required.
3. Correct restricted hose. Replace vapor vent valve.
4. Clean or replace.
5. Adjust, clean or replace.
6. Correct and clear restriction.
7. Clean and clear passages.
8. Clean, clear and correct as required.
9. Replace assembly.
10. See Vacuum Piston Troubleshooting below.
11. Repair as required.
POOR HIGH-SPEED PERFORMANCE
Check for:
1. Inlet system air leak.
2. Enrichener valve not seated or leaking.
3. Restricted fuel tank vent system.
4. Restricted fuel supply tract.
5. Dirty or damaged air cleaner element.
6. Plugged bowl, vent or overflow.
7. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
8. Vacuum piston assembly malfunction.
9. Loose or plugged main jets or passages.
10. Improper fuel level.
11. Accelerator pump inoperative.
Remedy:
1. Clean or replace.
2. Adjust, clean or replace.
3. Correct restricted hose. Replace vapor vent valve.
4. Correct and clean restriction.
5. Clean or replace.
6. Clean and clear passages.
7. Replace assembly.
8. See Vacuum Piston Troubleshooting below.
9. Clean, clear and correct as required.
10. Adjust float level.
11. Repair as required.
Table 4-2. Vacuum Piston Assembly Troubleshooting
PISTON DOES NOT RISE PROPERLY
Check for:
1. Piston atmosphere vent blocked.
2. Diaphragm cap loose, damaged or leaking.
3. Spring binding.
4. Diaphragm pinched at lip groove.
5. Torn diaphragm.
6. Piston binding.
7. Piston vacuum passage plugged.
Remedy:
1. Clear vent.
2. Tighten or replace cap.
3. Correct or replace spring.
4. Reposition diaphragm lip.
5. Replace piston diaphragm assembly.
6. Clean piston slides and body or replace piston.
7. Clean and clear passage.
PISTON DOES NOT CLOSE PROPERLY
Check for:
1. Spring damaged.
2. Piston binding.
3. Piston diaphragm ring dirty or damaged.
4-4
Remedy:
1. Replace spring.
2. Clean piston slides and body or replace piston.
3. Clean or replace piston.
OPERATION
OMF3
Normal running position
Enrichener
The enrichener knob, next to the ignition switch, controls the
opening and closing of the enrichener valve at the carburetor.
Full out position
1CAUTION
1/2 way position
Avoid idling with the enrichener knob in the full out position for periods longer than 30 seconds. Such operation
may cause poor performance, erratic idle, poor fuel economy and spark plug fouling.
Figure 4-2. Enrichener Knob Positions
NOTE
The 1996 C.V. carburetor has an enrichener circuit that will
cause the engine to idle at approximately 2000 RPM with the
engine at normal operating temperature and the enrichener
knob pulled fully out.
COOL ENGINE
OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE WARMER THAN 50° F
1.
Set engine stop switch to RUN.
The increase in idle speed is intended to alert the rider that
the engine is warmed up to normal operating temperature
and the enrichener knob should be pushed all the way in.
2.
Raise side stand.
3.
Turn fuel supply valve ON.
Continuing to use the enrichener when the engine is at full
operating temperature WILL CAUSE FOULED PLUGS.
4.
Turn ignition key switch to IGN.
5.
BE SURE THROTTLE IS CLOSED. Pull enrichener knob
to full out position.
6.
Press electric starter switch to operate starter.
IMPORTANT NOTE
This motorcycle features a starter interlock. All the following conditions must be met to operate the engine
starter.
●
Engine stop switch on right handlebar control group
must be in the RUN (ignition ON) position.
●
Clutch must be disengaged before starting motorcycle in gear. Note that it is not necessary to disengage
clutch before starting the vehicle in neutral.
●
Side stand must be retracted before the clutch is
engaged if the motorcycle is in gear.
See STARTER INTERLOCK in Section 7 for troubleshooting information.
COOL ENGINE
OUTSIDE TEMPERATURE COOLER THAN 50° F
After starting the motorcycle, proceed as follows:
1.
After initial 15-30 second warm-up, ride for 3 minutes or
2 miles with enrichener knob in full out position.
2.
After 3 minutes or 2 miles, push enrichener knob in to the
1/2 way position. Ride 2 minutes or 2 miles.
3.
After 2 minutes or 2 miles, push enrichener knob fully in.
WARM OR HOT ENGINE
1.
Set engine stop switch to RUN.
2.
Raise side stand.
1.
Set engine stop switch to RUN.
2.
Raise side stand.
3.
Turn fuel supply valve ON.
3.
Turn fuel supply valve ON.
4.
Turn ignition key switch to IGN.
4.
Turn ignition key switch to IGN.
5.
BE SURE THROTTLE IS CLOSED. Pull enrichener knob
to full out position.
5.
DO NOT USE ENRICHENER. Open throttle 1/8-1/4.
6.
Press electric starter switch to operate starter.
6.
Press electric starter switch to operate starter.
After starting the motorcycle, proceed as follows:
1.
After initial 15-30 second warm-up, ride for 5 minutes or
3 miles with enrichener knob in full out position.
2.
After 5 minutes or 3 miles, push enrichener knob in to the
1/2 way position. Ride 2 minutes or 2 miles.
3.
After 2 minutes or 2 miles, push enrichener knob fully in.
NOTE
If the engine does not start after a few turns or if one cylinder
fires weakly but engine does not start, it is usually because of
an over-rich (flooded) condition. This is especially true of a
hot engine. If the engine is flooded, push the enrichener knob
fully in, turn ignition key switch to IGN and operate starter with
throttle wide open. Do not “pump” the throttle while starting.
4-5
Fuel Supply System
When fuel is used by the running engine, the fuel level in the
float chamber drops; this lowers the float and inlet valve,
thereby causing the valve to open and the fuel flow to resume.
See Figure 4-3. Fuel from the fuel tank passes through the
carburetor inlet valve into the carburetor float chamber. The
rising fuel level in the float chamber lifts the float, which in turn
lifts the attached inlet valve closer to the valve seat. When the
fuel reaches the level predetermined by the float level setting,
the float will lift the inlet valve into its seated position, thereby
closing the valve and stopping fuel flow to the float chamber.
The float chamber is vented to atmosphere through an air
passage in the carburetor body. The opening for the float
chamber vent passage is next to the carburetor main venturi
inlet, on the carburetor body surface to which the air cleaner
backplate is mounted.
Float bowl
vent
Fuel inlet
(from side)
Inlet valve
Float
AIR
FUEL
Drain line
AIR/FUEL
Figure 4-3. Fuel Supply System
4-6
Starting Circuit
See Figure 4-4. The starting circuit consists of a cable-actuated enrichener valve and converging fuel and air passages
in the carburetor body.
The enrichener air/fuel passage opens to the carburetor venturi, where low pressure exists when the engine is running.
Fuel in the carburetor float bowl and air in the enrichener air
inlet are vented to atmosphere and are at atmospheric pressure (greater pressure than in the carburetor venturi).
When the enrichener knob is pulled outward, the enrichener
valve opens the air/fuel passage to the low pressure carburetor venturi. Fuel in the float bowl, at atmospheric pressure,
flows upward through a metering enrichener jet and then
through a passage to the lower pressure enrichener valve
chamber. Air in the enrichener air inlet, at atmospheric pressure, also flows into the lower pressure enrichener valve
chamber and mixes with the incoming fuel. The resulting air/
fuel mixture flows through the air/fuel passage into the carburetor venturi, effectively increasing the amount of fuel delivered to the combustion chambers.
Enrichener
valve
Enrichener
air inlet
Air/fuel
passage
Enrichener
valve cable
Enrichener
jet
AIR
FUEL
AIR/FUEL
Figure 4-4. Starting Circuit
4-7
Idle- and Low-Speed Circuit
See Figure 4-5. At idle (with the throttle plate closed and the
main air stream obstructed), engine idle speed is maintained
by fuel metered through the slow jet. Air from the slow air jet
mixes with the fuel and is delivered to the idle port at the low
pressure side of the throttle plate.
At low-speed (with the throttle plate slightly open), the transfer
ports are exposed to the low pressure side of the throttle plate,
and additional fuel is directed to the barrel of the carburetor.
During the transition period from idle speed to mid-range, the
idle and transfer ports also supply some fuel to the carburetor
barrel; this allows for a smoother transition.
The venturi opening is reduced by the low position of the vacuum piston. This enables initial air stream velocities to be
higher than normally attainable with fixed-venturi carburetors.
The higher air stream velocities provide improved atomization
of fuel necessary for good acceleration and driveability.
Spring
Diaphragm
Throttle plate
Vacuum
Vacuum piston
piston
Transfer ports
Vacuum port
Idle port
Slow air jet
Idle mixture
screw
Slow jet
AIR
FUEL
AIR/FUEL
Figure 4-5. Idle- and Low-Speed Circuit
4-8
Mid-Range Slide Position
See Figure 4-6. As the throttle plate is opened, air flow
increases through the carburetor; this causes air pressure to
decrease in the carburetor venturi (near the needle jet) and in
the chamber above the diaphragm (which is vented to the
venturi through a vacuum port and passage in the vacuum
piston).
The chamber beneath the diaphragm is vented to higher atmospheric pressure by a passage to the carburetor inlet. The
higher air pressure at the underside of the diaphragm overcomes spring pressure and moves the vacuum piston upward
in proportion to the pressure difference between the chambers.
The tapered needle moves upward with the vacuum piston,
thereby opening the needle jet. With the needle jet open, the
main bleed tube is exposed to the lower pressure of the carburetor venturi. This causes fuel in the float bowl (at atmospheric pressure) to flow through the main jet and into the
main bleed tube. Air from the main air jet (at atmospheric
pressure) flows through the main bleed tube openings and
mixes with the incoming fuel. The air/fuel mixture is then
delivered through the needle jet into the main air stream of
the venturi.
Diaphragm
Spring
Vacuum piston
Vacuum port
Throttle
plate
Needle
Needle jet
Main air jet
Main bleed
tube
AIR
Main jet
FUEL
AIR/FUEL
Figure 4-6. Mid-Range Slide Position
4-9
High-Speed Circuit Slide Position
See Figure 4-7. As the throttle plate is opened, the pressure
difference between the chambers above and below the diaphragm increases and the vacuum piston moves further
upward.
The venturi opening increases and the needle is lifted further
out of the needle jet. The quantity of fuel and the volume of air
are simultaneously increased and metered to the proportions
of engine demand by the variable venturi and needle lift. With
the vacuum piston fully upward, the venturi opening is fully
enlarged and the needle jet opening exposure to the air
stream is at its maximum. Air and fuel supplies are now
available in quantities sufficient to meet maximum engine
demand.
Diaphragm
Spring
Vacuum piston
Vacuum
port
Needle
Throttle
plate
Needle jet
Main air jet
Main bleed tube
AIR
Main jet
FUEL
AIR/FUEL
Figure 4-7. High-Speed Circuit
4-10
Accelerator Pump System
See Figure 4-8. The accelerator pump system uses sudden
throttle openings (rapid acceleration) to quickly inject fuel into
the carburetor venturi; the extra fuel provides for smooth
acceleration. This fuel also assists engine operation during
cold engine warm-up when the enrichener is turned off prematurely.
Rapid throttle action, during the first third of throttle travel,
causes the accelerator pump rod to depress the accelerator
pump diaphragm. This forces fuel in the pump to flow through
a fuel passage (which has a “one-way” check valve), through
the pump nozzle, and then into the venturi. When the throttle
closes, the pump rod lifts up and away from the pump
diaphragm; a spring below the diaphragm pushes the
diaphragm upward, thereby causing the lower pump cavity to
refill with fuel from the float bowl. The check valve prevents
backflow of fuel from the pump nozzle/fuel passage during
this refilling phase.
Throttle
shaft
Venturi
Pump lever
Throttle
rod
Pump
nozzle
Spring
Pump
rod
Check
valve
FUEL
Diaphragm
Spring
Figure 4-8. Accelerator Pump System
4-11
ADJUSTMENT
3.
Install float and recheck setting.
4.
Install float bowl. Install carburetor as described in CARBURETOR, INSTALLATION on page 4-17.
Idle
See IGNITION TIMING in Section 1.
Enrichener Control
See Figure 4-9. Check enrichener operation. Enrichener knob
(1) should open (and remain open) and close without binding.
Plastic nut (2), next to the enrichener knob, controls the sliding
resistance of the enrichener control cable within the cable conduit. If adjustment is needed, perform the following:
1.
Loosen hex nut (5) at backside of mounting bracket.
2.
Move cable assembly free of slot in mounting bracket.
3.
Hold cable assembly at flats (4) with a wrench. Adjust
resistance until knob slides outward and remains fully
open without assistance. Knob must also slide inward
unaided.
4.
a.
Turn plastic nut (2) by hand counterclockwise
(reducing sliding resistance).
b.
Turn plastic nut clockwise (increasing sliding resistance).
OPERATION CHECK –
VACUUM PISTON
Opening Malfunction
1WARNING
While observing piston slide movement, be sure to maintain a safe distance from the carburetor and to wear suitable eye protection. An unexpected engine backfire could
cause personal injury.
1.
a.
Remove air cleaner cover and snorkel.
b.
Start engine running.
c.
Twist throttle control partially open and closed several times.
Observe whether or not vacuum piston has upward
movement. If piston does not rise, see VACUUM PISTON ASSEMBLY TROUBLESHOOTING on page 4-4.
Position cable assembly into slot in mounting bracket.
Tighten hex nut at backside of bracket.
NOTE
Do not lubricate the cable or inside of conduit. The cable must
have friction to work properly.
See Figure 4-10. Test vacuum piston as follows.
2.
b0090c4x
With engine not running, lift vacuum piston with finger.
Feel whether piston lifts fully and smoothly or whether
there is a binding condition.
5679
1
2
4
5
Vacuum piston
3
1.
2.
3.
Enrichener knob
Plastic nut
Lockwasher
4.
5.
Flat
Hex nut
Figure 4-9. Fuel Enrichener Control
Float Level
1.
Remove carburetor and place on a flat, clean surface on
engine manifold side. This is the “base.” Tilt carburetor
counterclockwise 15˚ to 20˚ from base until float comes
to rest. See Figure 4-11.
NOTE
If carburetor is tilted less than 15˚ or more than 20˚, your
measurements will be inaccurate.
2.
Use a vernier or dial caliper depth gauge to measure
from the carburetor flange face to the perimeter of the
float. Be careful not to push on float while measuring.
The
measurement
must
be
0.413-0.453
in.
(10.49-11.51 mm). If measurement is not within given
dimension, remove float and carefully bend tab in order
to reposition float at proper level.
4-12
Figure 4-10. Vacuum Piston
Closing Malfunction
1.
See Figure 4-10. With engine not running, lift vacuum
piston to full open position, then release. Observe
whether piston slides downward smoothly and fully to
stop.
2.
Observe position of piston slide at its lowest downward
point. Lower edge of slide should rest at horizontal
groove at lower end of slide track. See VACUUM PISTON ASSEMBLY TROUBLESHOOTING on page 4-4 if
problems are noted.
XLH0404
Start float position
Pin
Fuel inlet valve
Float
“Base”
Correct float position
Float
0.413-0.453 in.
(10.49-11.51 mm)
15 to 20˚
Incorrect float position
Pin return
spring collapsed
Float
Greater than 20˚
Figure 4-11. Carburetor Float Adjustment
4-13
REMOVAL
5751
3
Carburetor
1WARNING
Gasoline can be extremely flammable and highly explosive. Do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks when
refueling or servicing the fuel system. Inadequate safety
precautions may result in personal injury.
1.
Turn fuel supply valve OFF.
2.
Remove air cleaner cover and backplate. See AIR
CLEANER, REMOVAL on page 4-18.
3.
Loosen rear breather bolt. Remove front breather bolt
and washer. Remove air cleaner support ring.
1WARNING
A small amount of gasoline may drain from the fuel hose
when disconnected from the carburetor. Thoroughly wipe
up any spilt fuel immediately and dispose of rags in a
suitable manner. Gasoline can be extremely flammable
and highly explosive. Inadequate safety precautions may
result in personal injury.
4.
2
1
1.
2.
3.
Fuel hose
Canister vent hose (California models only)
V.O.E.S. connection (on back of carburetor)
See Figure 4-12. Disconnect fuel hose from carburetor.
Discard fuel hose clamp.
5.
Detach enrichener cable from bracket near ignition key
switch.
6.
Disconnect vacuum hose from carburetor V.O.E.S. fitting.
7.
Add freeplay to throttle cable adjusters (metric). Remove
throttle cables at carburetor.
8.
Pull carburetor free of intake manifold.
9.
Disconnect fuel drain hose from drain fitting. On California models, disconnect canister vent hose.
Figure 4-12. Carburetor Hoses
b0101x4x
Carburetor Manifold
1.
Remove carburetor as described above.
2.
Remove fuel tank. See FUEL TANK, REMOVAL on
page 4-20.
3.
Remove ignition key switch bracket.
a.
Remove bolt and locknut to detach top tie bar from
ignition key switch bracket.
b.
Cut cable strap holding ignition wires to main wiring
harness.
c.
Remove two TORX screws and washers from cylinder heads.
d.
Place bracket to the side.
4.
See Figure 4-13. Loosen two intake manifold screws (4)
on primary side of engine. Do not remove.
5.
Remove two manifold mounting screws (4) on gearcase
side of engine.
6.
Remove intake manifold (5) and seal ring (6). Slide both
mounting flanges (1, 2) over primary side screws (4).
Remove intake manifold seals (3).
4-14
1
4
6
5
2
6
5
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
3
Rear mounting flange
Front mounting flange
Intake manifold seal (2)
Screw (4)
Intake manifold
Seal ring
Figure 4-13. Intake Manifold
DISASSEMBLY
12. Clean all internal fuel/air passages and jets. Check that
all passages and jets are open and free of obstruction.
Vacuum Piston Chamber
13. Check needle jet holder (10). Clean bleed tube orifices.
Replace holder if damaged.
1.
See Figure 4-14. Remove screws (26, 25) and throttle
cable bracket (24).
2.
Remove three shouldered screws (2). Remove top cover
(1) and spring (3).
3.
Lift out vacuum piston (4) with jet needle (6) and spring
seat (5). Remove loose parts from vacuum piston.
Carburetor Body
1.
See Figure 4-14. Remove four screws and lockwashers
(18). Remove float bowl assembly (38).
2.
Remove pin (14), float (16) and fuel inlet valve (13).
3.
Back out main jet (11) and needle jet holder (10). Needle
jet (9) is free to be removed from bottom end of passage.
4.
Insert thin-bladed screwdriver into slow jet passage to
remove slow jet (12).
Accelerator Pump
1.
Remove three screws (49), lockwashers (48), accelerator
pump housing (42), spring (43) and diaphragm (44).
Remove O-ring (45) from housing.
14. Check float (16) for cracks or other leaks. Replace if
damaged.
15. Clean main jet (11) with carburetor cleaner and inspect
for damage. Replace if damaged.
Accelerator Pump
1.
See Figure 4-14. Inspect the accelerator pump diaphragm (44) for holes, cracks or deformation. Replace as
necessary.
2.
Replace the accelerator pump rod (51) if it is bent;
replace the boot (50) if cracked.
ASSEMBLY
Vacuum Piston Chamber
1.
See Figure 4-14. Place jet needle (6) through center hole
in vacuum piston (4). Place spring seat (5) over top of
needle.
CLEANING, INSPECTION AND
REPAIR
2.
Insert vacuum piston (4) into carburetor body. The slides
on the piston are off-center and the piston will fit into the
slide track grooves one way only. If piston does not fit,
rotate 180°.
Vacuum Piston Components
3.
Check to be sure diaphragm is seated evenly into groove
at top of carburetor body. Place spring (3) over spring
seat (5), and carefully lower top cover (1). Keep spring
straight while lowering top cover.
4.
After top cover (1) is seated, hold top cover while lifting
vacuum piston (4) upward. Piston should raise to top
smoothly. If piston movement is restricted, spring (3) is
cocked; lift up top cover, then lower carefully, keeping
spring coils straight.
5.
Once top cover is installed correctly, install three shouldered screws (2). Place throttle cable bracket (24) in
position with idle screw (27), resting on top of throttle
cam stop. Install body screw and washer (26) first, then
top screw (25) to prevent bending bracket or throttle cam.
1.
See Figure 4-14. Hold vacuum piston up to strong light.
Examine diaphragm at top of vacuum piston (4) for evidence of pinching, holes or tears. Replace if damaged.
2.
Examine vacuum passage through bottom of piston (4).
Clean passage if restricted.
3.
Examine spring (3) for stretching, crimping, distortion or
damage. Replace if necessary.
4.
Examine slide on sides of piston (4) to be sure surface is
smooth and clean. Clean or buff out any rough surfaces.
5.
Examine jet needle (6) for evidence of bending or damage. Needle should be straight; surface of taper should
be smooth and even.
6.
Check float bowl O-ring (53) for any distortion or damage. Replace if seating surfaces are damaged.
7.
Examine fuel inlet valve (13) and inlet valve seat. Clean
with carburetor cleaner. Replace if seating surfaces are
damaged.
8.
Clean slow jet (12) with carburetor cleaner. Check to be
sure all orifices are open.
9.
Check enrichener valve (22). Be sure needle guide is
clean, straight and undamaged. Check composition seating surface for wear or damage. Replace if damaged.
10. Check enrichener valve chamber. Clean with carburetor
cleaner. Check that all passages are open and free of
obstruction.
11. Clean needle jet (9). Replace if damaged.
Carburetor Body
1CAUTION
Slow jets from fixed-venturi carburetors look the same as
the slow jet of the C.V. carburetor. However, the air bleed
hole sizes are different on fixed-venturi carburetors and
they must not be installed on C.V. carburetors.
1.
See Figure 4-14. Thread slow jet (12) into slow jet passage with narrow-bladed screwdriver.
2.
Turn carburetor upside down. Place needle jet (9) in main
jet passage with needle passing through center hole. Be
sure end of jet with larger opening and chamfered surface enters passage first.
4-15
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
b0005b4x
2
3
1
5
21
Top cover
Shouldered screw (3)
Spring
Vacuum piston
Spring seat
Jet needle
Fitting (V.O.E.S.)
Fuel inlet fitting
Needle jet
Needle jet holder
Main jet
Slow jet
Fuel inlet valve
Pin
6
19
4
20
57
23
54
7
22
55
54
27
25
29
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
39.
40.
41.
Pump linkage
Float
Carburetor body
Screw w/ lockwasher (4)
Cable guide
Starter cap
Cable sealing cap
Enrichener valve
Spring
Throttle cable bracket
Screw
Screw and lockwasher
Idle speed adj. screw
Spring
Washer (2)
Drain hole
Drain hose
Clip
Washer
Cotter pin (2)
Washer (3)
Washer
Lever
Float bowl
E-clip
Accelerator pump nozzle
Spring
24
15
8
52
28
17
26
34 35
37
12
39
56
33
14
34
16
51
50
9
10
40
13
11
53
30
46
47
31
18
38
43
44
36
41
32
42
45
49
48
Figure 4-14. Constant-Velocity (C.V.) Carburetor
4-16
42.
43.
44.
45.
46.
47.
48.
49.
50.
51.
52.
53.
54.
55.
56.
57.
Pump housing
Spring
Diaphragm
O-ring
O-ring
Drain screw
Lockwasher (3)
Screw (3)
Boot
Accelerator pump rod
Collar
Float bowl O-ring
Clamp (2)
Hose
Washer
Vacuum hose
3.
4.
Insert needle jet holder (10) into main jet passage with
needle inserted into center of holder. Thread holder into
passage and tighten. Thread and tighten main jet (11) in
tapped hole in needle jet holder (10).
Carburetor
1.
Place float assembly (16) into position with fuel inlet
valve (13) inserted into valve seat and with pivot arm
aligned with holes in mounting posts (at bottom of carburetor body). Insert pin (14) through float pivot arm and
float mounting posts.
5.
Check float level setting and adjust if necessary. See
FLOAT LEVEL on page 4-12.
6.
Place float bowl (38) over float and onto carburetor body
flange. Bowl will only fit in one position. Install and tighten
screws and lockwashers (18).
Accelerator Pump
Install diaphragm (44), spring (43), O-ring (45) and pump
housing (42). Secure with screws (49) and lockwashers (48).
INSTALLATION
See Figure 4-13. Place mounting flanges (1, rear and 2,
front) on aluminum manifold (5).
2.
Place intake manifold seals (3) on each spigot of manifold
with chamfered edge against mounting flanges (1, 2).
3.
Place channel of seal ring (6) over inlet end of manifold.
4.
Position manifold against intake ports of cylinder head,
with slotted and round holes in flanges (1, 2) aligned with
holes in cylinder head. Manifold should slide over screws
on primary side of engine. Insert two screws (4) through
manifold flanges on gearcase side and loosely thread
into tapped holes in cylinder head. Tighten intake manifold screws (4) to 6-10 ft-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm).
5.
a.
Install idle control cable into longer, inboard cable
guide on carburetor.
b.
Install throttle control cable into shorter, outboard
cable guide on carburetor.
NOTE
The fit between the carburetor and the seal ring is tight. For
ease of installation, lubricate the mating surfaces, carburetor
body and seal ring with liquid dish soap or tire mounting lube
prior to assembly.
2.
See Figure 4-12. Connect fuel drain hose to drain fitting.
Connect vacuum hose to V.O.E.S. fitting. On California
models, connect canister hose to carburetor.
3.
Lubricate only the inside surface of seal ring that will be
in contact with the carburetor. Also apply a light coat of
lubricant to the spigot of the carburetor body. Push carburetor body into seal ring.
4.
Attach fuel hose to carburetor with a new clamp.
5.
Install enrichener cable on bracket and adjust. See
ENRICHENER CONTROL on page 4-12.
6.
Adjust throttle cables. See CARBURETOR in Section 1.
7.
Install air cleaner components. See AIR CLEANER,
INSTALLATION on page 4-19.
8.
Install fuel tank. See FUEL TANK, INSTALLATION on
page 4-21.
Carburetor Manifold
1.
Attach throttle cables to carburetor.
Install ignition key switch bracket.
a.
Fasten bracket to cylinder heads with two TORX
screws and washers. Tighten to 25-30 ft-lbs (33.940.7 Nm).
b.
Attach top tie bar to bracket. Tighten locknut to 3033 ft-lbs (40.7-44.7 Nm).
c.
Secure ignition wires to main wiring harness using a
new cable strap.
Carburetor Drain Hose Routing
Route fuel drain hose from the carburetor drain fitting downward and forward through the space between the engine rear
cylinder and the rear cylinder push rod covers (intake and
exhaust), and then downward through the space between the
engine crankcase and the oil pump.
4-17
4
AIR CLEANER
GENERAL
5705
1
The air cleaner prevents foreign material from entering the
carburetor and engine by trapping airborne dust and dirt in
the filter element.
Service air cleaner filter element every 5000 miles (8000 km)
or more often if the motorcycle is run in a dusty environment.
See AIR CLEANER FILTER in Section 1 for more information.
REMOVAL
1CAUTION
Do not run engine without filter element in place. Debris
could be drawn into the engine causing damage.
1.
See Figure 4-15. Remove screw and nylon washer on
top of air cleaner cover.
2.
Remove screw, nylon washer and locknut at rear of air
cleaner cover. Remove cover.
3.
See Figure 4-16. Detach backplate hoses.
a.
Detach cylinder head breather hoses from tee fitting.
b.
Detach snorkel breather hose at snorkel.
c.
On California models, slide fresh air hose from canister through backplate.
4.
See Figure 4-17. Remove two screws and snorkel plate.
5.
Remove snorkel and filter box.
6.
See Figure 4-18. Remove screw with spacer and gasket.
7.
See Figure 4-19. Remove screw under air cleaner support.
NOTE
Step 7 may require a cut down allen wrench.
8.
Draw breather hoses through backplate. Remove backplate.
9.
If necessary, remove air cleaner support ring.
a.
Detach breather hoses from cylinder head breather
bolts.
b.
Remove front breather bolt.
c.
Loosen rear bolt.
d.
Slide air cleaner support ring upward and remove.
NOTE
See Figure 4-20. Air cleaner support ring fits around breather
bolts. Fitting on rear breather bolt may not clear the frame if
bolt removal is attempted. Do not remove rear breather bolt
unless absolutely necessary.
2
1.
2.
Screw and nylon washer
Screw, nylon washer and locknut
Figure 4-15. Air Cleaner Cover
5707
2
1
3
5
1.
2.
3.
Snorkel
Snorkel breather
Rear head breather
4.
5.
Front head breather
Tee fitting
Figure 4-16. Breather Hoses
5678
1
4
3
2
1.
2.
Screw (2)
Snorkel plate
3.
4.
Screw
Snorkel tube
Figure 4-17. Snorkel Ring
4-18
4
INSTALLATION
1.
2.
3.
5679
See Figure 4-20. If removed, apply HYLOMAR to threads
of breather bolts. Install air cleaner support ring using
breather bolts and washer. Tighten breather bolts to 1015 ft-lbs (13.6-20.3 Nm).
2
1
See Figure 4-16. Attach breather hoses.
a.
If removed, attach hoses to breather bolts in cylinder
heads.
b.
Slide hoses through backplate.
c.
Connect hoses to tee fitting.
d.
On California models, insert fresh air hose from canister through backplate.
See Figure 4-19. Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242
(blue) to air cleaner front support screw. Install support/
backplate and tighten screw to 3-5 ft-lbs (4.1-6.8 Nm).
1.
2.
Air cleaner spacer with gasket
Screw
Figure 4-18. Air Cleaner Spacer
b0249x4x
NOTE
Front isolator mount
Step 3 may require a cut down allen wrench.
4.
See Figure 4-18. Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242
(blue) to screw. Install ring with screw through backplate.
Tighten to 7-9 ft-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm).
5.
See Figure 4-17. Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242
(blue) to screws. Fasten snorkel tube with ring and two
screws. Tighten to 6-8 ft-lbs (8.1-10.8 Nm).
6.
Check air cleaner filter. See AIR CLEANER FILTER in
Section 1. Attach filter box with filter to snorkel tube.
Air cleaner front
support
NOTE
Air cleaner backplate
not shown.
Screw
Figure 4-19. Air Cleaner Front Support
7.
Connect breather hose to snorkel tube.
8.
See Figure 4-15. Place cover over backplate assembly.
Install screw and washer into top well nut.
9.
Install screw, nylon washer and locknut at rear mount.
Tighten to 6-8 ft-lbs (8.1-10.8 Nm).
5752
Figure 4-20. Breather Bolts
4-19
FUEL TANK
GENERAL
b0254x4x
1WARNING
3
Verify that the fuel tank vent hose does not contact hot
exhaust or engine parts. The hose contains flammable
vapors that can be ignited if damaged, thereby resulting
in personal injury.
11
4
12
1
2
See Figure 4-21. The fuel tank is vented through a vent valve
assembly within the tank. A vent hose connects to the vent
valve fitting at the top of the fuel tank. The vent hose is then
cable strapped to the left side of the vehicle frame.
5
10
6
9
8
REMOVAL
1WARNING
Gasoline can be extremely flammable and highly explosive. Do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks when
refueling or servicing the fuel system. Inadequate safety
precautions may result in personal injury.
1.
Turn fuel supply valve OFF.
1WARNING
A small amount of gasoline may drain from the fuel hose
when disconnected from the carburetor. Thoroughly wipe
up any spilt fuel immediately and dispose of rags in a
suitable manner. Gasoline can be extremely flammable
and highly explosive. Inadequate safety precautions may
result in personal injury.
2.
Remove fuel hose and hose clamp from fuel supply
valve.
NOTE
Fuel tank can be removed from motorcycle without being
drained. Drain tank only when necessary.
3.
Drain fuel from tank.
a.
Attach an additional length of hose to fuel supply
valve. Place free end of drain hose into a proper,
clean container of adequate size.
b.
Turn supply valve to reserve (RES). Drain gasoline
from tank into container. Remove temporary drain
hose.
4.
See Figure 4-21. Remove cable strap (12) holding vent
hose (11) to vent valve fitting (10). Disconnect vent hose
from vent valve fitting.
5.
Remove seat.
6.
Remove fuel tank screw (1) and washer (2).
1CAUTION
Use caution when removing fuel tank. If tank should contact other chassis parts, tank finish may be damaged.
7.
4-20
Lift rear of tank from frame and remove.
7
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Screw
Washer
Fuel cap
O-ring
Screw (8)
Fuel cap boot
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Fuel tank
Vent valve
Fuel cap flange
Vent valve fitting
Vent hose
Cable strap
Figure 4-21. Fuel Tank
DISASSEMBLY/ASSEMBLY
1WARNING
5742
Even with the fuel tank completely drained, a small
amount of gasoline may leak from the bore when the fuel
supply valve is loosened or removed. Thoroughly wipe
up any spilt fuel immediately and dispose of rags in a
suitable manner. Gasoline can be extremely flammable
and highly explosive. Inadequate safety precautions may
result in personal injury.
1.
If the fuel supply valve requires cleaning or repair, see
FUEL SUPPLY VALVE, REMOVAL on page 4-22.
2.
See Figure 4-21. Remove fuel filler cap (3) and O-ring (4).
3.
Remove vent valve fitting (10) and vent valve (8).
4.
Remove self-tapping screws (5) from fuel cap flange (9).
5.
Remove fuel cap flange and fuel cap boot (6).
6.
Assemble in reverse order.
a.
Apply HYLOMAR to fuel cap boot, fuel cap flange
and top of fuel tank.
b.
See Figure 4-22. Tighten screws to 22-25 in-lbs
(2.5-2.8 Nm) in the order shown.
CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
1WARNING
INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 4-21. Place fuel tank on frame. Install fuel
tank screw (1) and washer (2). Tighten to 9-11 ft-lbs
(12.2-14.9 Nm).
7
2
1
8
4
5
Figure 4-22. Tightening Flange
1CAUTION
Avoid pinching wiring harness and vent hose between
fuel tank and frame during tank installation. Pinched
hoses will negatively affect vehicle operation.
2.
Connect vent hose (11) to vent valve fitting (10). Clamp
hose to fitting with a new cable strap (12).
3.
Connect fuel hose to fuel supply valve with a new clamp
and HOSE CLAMP PLIERS (Part No. HD-41137)
An open flame or spark may cause a fuel tank explosion
if all traces of fuel are not purged from the tank. Use
extreme caution when servicing fuel tanks. Inadequate
safety precautions may result in personal injury.
Clean tank interior with commercial cleaning solvent or a soap
and water solution. Plug fuel tank openings. Shake tank to agitate the cleaning agent. Thoroughly flush fuel tank after cleaning. Allow tank to air dry. Carefully inspect fuel hose for
damage, wear or general deterioration. Replace as necessary.
3
6
1WARNING
After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be
sure it is locked in position. If seat is loose, it could shift
during vehicle operation and startle the rider, causing
loss of control and personal injury.
4.
Install seat. See SEAT, INSTALLATION in Section 2.
5.
Fill fuel tank with fuel supply valve turned OFF.
6.
Open fuel supply valve and carefully inspect for leaks.
Turn valve OFF after the inspection is performed.
4-21
FUEL SUPPLY VALVE
GENERAL
b0029b2x
The fuel supply valve is located on the left side, below the fuel
tank. The gasoline supply to the carburetor is shut OFF when
the handle is in the vertical position. For gasoline main supply, turn the handle to the 3 o’clock position (horizontal rearward). For gasoline reserve supply, turn the handle to the 9
o’clock position (horizontal forward). Turn valve to OFF position (vertical) when engine is not running.
REMOVAL
1WARNING
Gasoline can be extremely flammable and highly explosive. Do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks when
refueling or servicing the fuel system. Inadequate safety
precautions may result in personal injury.
1.
See Figure 4-23. Turn fuel supply valve OFF.
1WARNING
Filter strainer
(shown unscrewed
from valve body)
A small amount of gasoline may drain from the fuel hose
when disconnected from the carburetor. Thoroughly wipe
up any spilt fuel immediately and dispose of rags in a
suitable manner. Gasoline can be extremely flammable
and highly explosive. Inadequate safety precautions may
result in personal injury.
2.
Remove fuel hose and clamp from fuel supply valve.
3.
Attach an additional length of hose to fuel supply valve.
Place free end of drain hose into a proper, clean container of adequate size. Turn supply valve to reserve
(RES). Drain gasoline from tank into container. Remove
temporary drain hose.
Screw
Screw
Handle in
RES(ERVE)
position
1WARNING
Handle in ON
position
Even with the fuel tank completely drained, a small
amount of gasoline may leak from the bore when the fuel
supply valve is loosened or removed. Thoroughly wipe
up any spilt fuel immediately and dispose of rags in a
suitable manner. Gasoline can be extremely flammable
and highly explosive. Inadequate safety precautions may
result in personal injury.
INSTALLATION
4.
1.
Remove two screws and fuel supply valve assembly.
CLEANING, INSPECTION AND
REPAIR
1.
Clean or replace filter strainer (located inside fuel tank
above fuel supply valve). Filter strainer threads into valve
body.
2.
Flush fuel tank to remove all dirt.
4-22
Handle in
OFF position
Figure 4-23. Fuel Supply Valve
See Figure 4-23. Attach fuel supply valve to tank with two
screws. Tighten to 34-37 in-lbs (3.8-4.2 Nm).
1CAUTION
Screws thread directly into plastic fuel tank. Overtightening screws will strip the tank threads and require a
replacement fuel tank to be installed upon subsequent
removal of the fuel supply valve.
2.
Connect fuel hose with a new clamp and HOSE CLAMP
PLIERS (Part No. HD-41137).
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS CONTROL
CALIFORNIA MODELS
GENERAL
Vapors to canister
Captured
check ball
Buell motorcycles sold in the state of California are equipped
with an evaporative (EVAP) emissions control system. The
EVAP system prevents fuel hydrocarbon vapors from escaping into the atmosphere and is designed to meet the California Air Resource Board (CARB) regulations in effect at the
time of manufacture.
Gasoline
The EVAP functions in the following manner:
●
●
See Figure 4-24. Hydrocarbon vapors in the fuel tank are
directed through the vent valve and stored in the carbon
canister. If the vehicle is tipped at an abnormal angle, the
vent valve closes to prevent liquid gasoline from leaking
out of the fuel tank through the vapor vent hose.
See Figure 4-25. When the engine is running, carburetor
venturi negative pressure (vacuum) slowly draws off the
hydrocarbon vapors from the carbon canister through the
vent hose. These vapors pass through the carburetor and
are burned as part of normal combustion in the engine.
The large diameter canister-to-air cleaner hose (canister
clean air inlet hose) supplies the canister with fresh air
from the air cleaner.
TROUBLESHOOTING
1WARNING
Verify that the evaporative emissions vent hoses do not
contact hot exhaust or engine parts. The hoses contain
flammable vapors that can be ignited if damaged, thereby
resulting in personal injury.
VEHICLE UPRIGHT
Hydrocarbon vapors
released to canister
through vent valve
VEHICLE TIPPED
Check balls stop liquid
gasoline from escaping
fuel tank
Vent valve and
check balls
b0258a4x
Figure 4-24. Vent Valve Operation
5753
4
The system has been designed to operate with a minimum of
maintenance. Check that all hoses are properly routed and
connected and are not pinched or kinked.
2
1
1.
2.
3.
4.
3
Overflow vent hose from fuel tank
Vent hose to carburetor
Fresh air inlet from air cleaner backplate
Cable strap around all three hoses
Figure 4-25. Carbon Canister
4-23
REMOVAL
b0255x4x
7
Vent Valve
6
1.
See Figure 4-26. The vent valve fitting (5) is screwed into
the top of the fuel tank.
2.
Remove vent hose cable strap. Disconnect hose (6) from
fitting. Remove fitting.
3.
Remove check balls (4, 3) from vent valve.
4.
Remove fuel filler cap and O-ring. Remove vent valve.
5.
If necessary, label overflow vent hose connected to canister and remove from canister fitting.
Canister
1.
See Figure 4-25. The canister assembly mounts on a
frame tube along the left side of the motorcycle.
2.
Label the three hoses connected to canister. Disconnect
hoses from canister.
3.
4.
5.
Depress locking tab at the front end of the canister
mounting bracket. Slide canister towards the front wheel
until it disengages from the bracket and remove.
5
4
3
2
1
1.
2.
3.
4.
Fuel tank
Vent valve
Steel check ball
Plastic check ball
5.
6.
7.
Vent valve fitting
Vent hose
Cable strap
Figure 4-26. Vapor Vent Valve
5754
3
See Figure 4-27. Remove screws, washers and locknuts
(5) to detach mounting plate (2) from clamps (1).
4
2
5
Remove countersunk screws and locknuts (4) to separate bracket (3) from mounting plate (2).
1
INSTALLATION
Vent Valve
1WARNING
Verify that the fuel tank vapor vent hose does not contact
hot exhaust or engine parts. The hose contains flammable vapors that can be ignited if damaged, thereby resulting in personal injury.
1.
See Figure 4-26. Screw vent valve (2) into fuel tank.
2.
Drop check balls (3, 4) into vent valve.
3.
Attach vent valve fitting (5).
4.
Install fuel cap and new O-ring.
5.
Attach overflow vent hose to fitting with a new cable
strap.
6.
Attach overflow vent hose to bottom fitting on canister if
disconnected.
4-24
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Clamp (2)
Mounting plate
Canister mounting bracket
Countersunk screw and locknut (2)
Screw, washer and locknut (2)
Figure 4-27. Carbon Canister Mounting
Canister
1.
2.
3.
4.
5757
See Figure 4-27. Install canister bracket (3) on mounting
plate (2) with countersunk screws and locknuts (4).
1
Install mounting plate assembly on frame by attaching
mounting clamps (1) using screws, washers and locknuts
(2). Tighten to 6-8 ft-lbs (8.1-10.8 Nm).
3
See Figure 4-25. Depress locking tab and slide canister
into locked position on canister bracket. Clip on canister
bracket must engage canister; bend clip outward somewhat if canister is not held securely.
4
2
Connect the three marked hoses to the canister.
HOSE ROUTING
1.
2.
V.O.E.S. hose
Canister vent hose
3.
4.
Fuel hose
Drain hose
Figure 4-28. Emissions Hose Routing at Carburetor
Carburetor
See Figure 4-28. Route the evaporative emissions control
hoses at the carburetor as shown. To gain access to the
V.O.E.S. and hoses, remove the fuel tank and/or air cleaner/
backplate assembly if necessary.
Canister Hose Routings
1.
See Figure 4-25. Connect one end of the canister clean
air inlet hose to the carbon canister.
2.
Connect overflow vent hose and canister vent hose to fittings on carbon canister. Canister vent hose attaches to
top fitting. Route both hoses towards fresh air hose on
rear of canister.
3.
Cable strap the three hoses where the hose connector
attaches the two pieces of fresh air hose.
4.
Route the smaller hoses forward along the top left frame
tube. The vent and overflow hoses run together until the
vent hose turns between the cylinders. Connect vent
hose to elbow fitting on carburetor. Connect overflow
vent hose to vent valve fitting using a new cable strap.
5.
Route fresh air hose upward and forward along the left
frame tube. Continue running hose to air cleaner backplate fitting. Secure hose using new cable straps.
4-25
5
SPECIFICATIONS
STARTER
SERVICE WEAR LIMITS
IN.
MM
Free speed
3000 RPM (min.) @ 11.5 V
Brush length minimum
0.433
11.0
Free current
90 amp (max.) @ 11.5 V
1.141
28.98
Stall current
400 amp (max.) @ 2.4 V
Commutator diameter
minimum
Stall torque
8.1 ft-lbs (11.0 Nm) (min.) @ 2.4 V
ITEM
TORQUE
Battery terminal hardware
30-40 in-lbs
3.4-4.5 Nm
Starter mounting bolts
13-20 ft-lbs
17.6-27.1 Nm
NOTES
hold cable when loosening/tightening, page 5-17
page 5-17
5-1
ELECTRIC STARTER SYSTEM
GENERAL
The starter is made up of an armature, field winding assembly, solenoid, drive assembly, idler gear and drive housing.
The starter motor torque is increased through gear reduction.
The gear reduction consists of the drive pinion on the armature, an idler gear and a clutch gear in the drive housing. The
idler gear is supported by rollers. The clutch gear is part of
the overrunning clutch/drive assembly.
The overrunning clutch is the part which engages and drives
the clutch ring gear. It also prevents the starter from overrunning. The field windings are connected in series with the
armature through brushes and commutator segments.
Wiring Diagrams
For additional information concerning the starting system circuit, see the wiring diagram at the end of Section 7, ELECTRICAL.
Starter Relay
The starter relay is a non-repairable part that must be
replaced as a unit if it fails.
5-2
OPERATION
See Figure 5-1. The starter relay is activated when the starter
switch is pushed. This allows battery current to flow into the
pull-in winding and also into the hold-in winding to ground. The
magnetic forces of the pull-in and hold-in windings in the solenoid push the plunger causing it to shift to the left. This action
engages the pinion gear with the clutch ring gear. At the same
time, the main solenoid contacts are closed, so battery current
flows directly through the field windings to the armature and to
ground. Simultaneously, the pull-in winding is shorted. The current continues flowing through the hold-in winding keeping the
main solenoid contacts closed. At this point, the starter begins
to crank the engine. After the engine has started, the pinion
gear turns freely on the pinion shaft through the action of the
overrunning clutch. The overrunning clutch prevents the clutch
ring gear (which is now rotating under power from the engine)
from turning the armature too fast.
When the starter switch is released, the current of the hold-in
winding is fed through the main solenoid contacts and the
direction of the current in the pull-in winding is reversed. The
solenoid plunger is returned to its original position by the
return spring, which causes the pinion gear to disengage
from the clutch ring gear.
b0164x5x
Armature
STARTER AT MOMENT STARTER SWITCH IS CLOSED
Field winding
Brush
Idler gear
Pinion gear
Ball bearing
Plunger
Main
contacts
Overrunning
clutch
Hold-in
winding
Pull-in
winding
Battery
Start circuit –
See wiring
diagram
Clutch ring
gear
Armature
STARTER DURING CRANKING
Field winding
Brush
Idler gear
Pinion gear
Ball bearing
Plunger
Main
contacts
Overrunning
clutch
Clutch ring
gear
Hold-in
winding
Pull-in
winding
Battery
Start circuit –
See wiring
diagram
Figure 5-1. Starter Operation
5-3
5-4
b0207x5x
TN
O
NEUTRAL
TN
P1
IGN POWER
BE
TO STARTER
Y/O
GY
1
2
3
4
BK/R
NEUTRAL
SWITCH
P3
O
TN
12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
BK
P14
TN/W
2 1
BK W
S2
SIDE STAND
SWITCH
S1
TN
S13
S11
TN/GN
MAIN CHASSIS GROUND
S12
TN
S10
TN/GN
R
TN/GN
BK
MASTER
30A CIRCUIT
BREAKER
S7
TN/GN
S15
R
GN
TN/W
GY
P13
TN/W
P8
VIEW FROM FUSE
INSERTION SIDE
P12
TN/GN
BK/R
R
CLUTCH SWITCH
A
B
C
D
TN/GN
BK
R/B K
1
2
R/BK
S14
P5
FROM IGN RLY R/BE
TO GROUND
BK
GN
BK
BK
IGNITION
GY/O
15A
LT.BE
COLOR CODE:
BE
BLUE
BK
BN
R/BK
LIGHT BLUE
GY
GRAY
TN
TAN
BLACK
O
ORANGE
V
VIOLET
BROWN
PK
PINK
W
WHITE
GY/O
DIODE
GN
GREEN
R
RED
Y
YELLOW
INSTRUMENTS
O
GY/O
NO CONNECTION
CONNECTION
15A
86
GY/O
85
87
GY/O
TN/W
TN/W
CABLE COLOR
XX
STRIPE COLOR
PIN CONNECTOR
SOCKET CONNECTOR
86
BK/R
15A
ACCESSORIES
15A
85
87
R/BK
GY
30
87A
XX
LIGHTS
TN/GN
GN
KEY SWITCH
30
87A
R/BK
IGN
IGNITION RELAY
FUSE BLOCK
P9
STARTER RELAY
R/GY
R
OFF
LOCK
BATTERY
1996 BUELL S1-LIGHTNING STARTING CIRCUIT
Figure 5-2. Electric Starting System Circuit
Table 5-1. Troubleshooting
PROBLEM
1.
Starter does
not run or runs
at very low
speeds.
SOURCE OF
PROBLEM
1.1 Battery.
PROBABLE CAUSE
SOLUTION
1.1.1
Voltage drop due to
discharged battery.
1.1.1
Charge battery.
1.1.2
Short-circuited or open
between electrodes.
1.1.2
Replace battery.
1.1.3
Poor contact condition of
battery terminal(s).
1.1.3
Clean and retighten.
1.2 Wiring.
1.2.1
Disconnection between
starter switch and solenoid
terminal.
1.2.1
Repair or replace wire.
1.3 Starting
switch or
starter relay.
1.3.1
Poor contact condition or
poor connection.
1.3.1
Replace.
1.4 Solenoid.
1.4.1
Poor contact condition.
caused by burnt contact.
1.4.1
Polish contact surface or
replace solenoid assembly.
1.4.2
Contact plate removed.
1.4.2
Repair.
1.4.3
Pull-in winding open or shortcircuited.
1.4.3
Replace solenoid assembly.
1.4.4
Hold-in winding open.
1.4.4
Replace solenoid assembly.
1.5.1
Poor contact condition of
brushes.
1.5.1
Check brush spring tension.
1.5.2
Commutator burnt.
1.5.2
Correct on lathe or replace.
1.5.3
Commutator high mica.
1.5.3
Correct by undercutting.
1.5.4
Field winding grounded.
1.5.4
Replace.
1.5.5
Armature winding grounded
or short-circuited.
1.5.5
Replace.
1.5.6
Reduction gears damaged.
1.5.6
Replace.
1.5.7
Insufficient brush spring
tension.
1.5.7
Replace.
1.5.8
Disconnected lead wire
between solenoid and field
windings.
1.5.8
Repair or replace lead wire.
1.5.9
Ball bearing sticks.
1.5.9
Replace bearing.
1.5 Starting motor.
5-5
Table 5-1. Troubleshooting (Continued)
PROBLEM
2.
3.
Pinion does not
engage with
ring gear while
starter is
running or
engine cannot
be cranked.
Starter does
not stop
running.
SOURCE OF
PROBLEM
2.1 Battery.
SOLUTION
2.1.1
Voltage drop due to
discharged battery.
2.1.1
Charge battery.
2.1.2
Short-circuited or open
between electrodes.
2.1.2
Replace battery.
2.1.3
Poor contact condition of
battery terminal(s).
2.1.3
Clean and retighten.
2.2 Wiring.
2.2.1
Disconnection between
starter switch and solenoid
terminal.
2.2.1
Repair or replace wire.
2.3 Overrunning
clutch.
2.3.1
Overrunning clutch
malfunction (rollers or
compression spring).
2.3.1
Replace overrunning clutch.
2.3.2
Pinion teeth worn out.
2.3.2
Replace overrunning clutch.
2.3.3
Pinion does not run in
overrunning direction.
2.3.3
Replace overrunning clutch.
2.3.4
Poor sliding condition of
spline teeth.
2.3.4
Remove foreign materials,
dirt, or replace overrunning
clutch.
2.3.5
Reduction gears damaged.
2.3.5
Replace overrunning clutch
and idler gear.
2.4 Ring gear.
2.4.1
Excessively worn teeth.
2.4.1
Replace ring gear.
3.1 Solenoid.
3.1.1
Return spring worn.
3.1.1
Replace solenoid.
3.1.2
Coil layer shorted.
3.1.2
Replace solenoid.
3.1.3
Contact plate melted and
stuck.
3.1.3
Replace solenoid.
3.2.1
Unopened contacts.
3.3.1
Replace starting switch or
starter relay.
3.2.2
Poor returning.
3.3.1
Replace starting switch or
starter relay.
3.2 Starting
switch or
starter relay.
5-6
PROBABLE CAUSE
BATTERY TESTS
• Visual
• Voltage
Check connections at battery
and starter components
INOPERATIVE
Nothing clicks
Test relay
Check for
power at relay
from button
NO
Relay clicks
Test wiring to
relay and
solenoid
Solenoid clicks
Perform voltage drop
tests between battery
and solenoid relay terminals (less than 1 volt)
High voltage
Check
for
power
at button
NO
Check
for
power to
button
Sticky
starter
button
YES
Test solenoid
Check
for
ground
at relay
YES
NO
YES
Test starter
motor
Correct
relay
ground
Back track to pinpoint
connections or switch
problems
STARTER SPINS, BUT
DOES NOT ENGAGE
RUN-ON
NO
Contaminated
switch (water
in button)
Sticking
relay
Starter clutch
failure. Replace
starter clutch
Does starter motor
turn if jumped?
YES
Perform
solenoid
hold-in &
pull-in tests
NO
Test starter
motor for
opens, shorts
or grounds
Substitute
good relay
NO
Repair wiring
YES
Replace switch assembly
5-7
Figure 5-3. Electric Starting System Diagnosis
Damaged gear &
armature.
Replace starter
STARTER STALLS OR
SPINS TOO SLOWLY
Perform voltage drop tests
from battery to solenoid,
solenoid to motor, battery
ground to motor ground
Starter motor current
draw test (on vehicle)
Starter motor
free draw (bench test)
Test starter
motor for
opens, shorts
or grounds
Inspect
engine,
primary
drive
STARTER ACTIVATION CIRCUITS
b0157x5x
ITEM A
Start
switch
0.1A
0.1A
0.1A
20A
Ignition
circuit
breaker
Ignition
switch
20A
Main
circuit
breaker
VDC
150A
Relay
Ignition
switch
OV
Main
circuit
breaker
VDC
150A
Solenoid
Battery
0.1A
20A
Ignition
circuit
breaker
Relay
ITEM B
Start
switch
20A
150A
Starter
150A
Solenoid
Battery
Starter
IDEAL CLOSED CIRCUIT
ITEM C
Start
switch
0.1A
Ignition
circuit
breaker
Ignition
switch
Main
circuit
breaker
0.1A
Ignition
circuit
breaker
Relay
12V
Ignition
switch
20A
150A
150A
Solenoid
OPEN CIRCUIT
20A
20A
Relay
VDC
OV
Main
circuit
breaker
VDC
Battery
0.1A
0.1A
20A
ITEM D
Start
switch
150A
Starter
Battery
150A
Solenoid
GROUND CIRCUIT
Figure 5-4. Typical circuity. Refer to wiring diagrams for more information.
5-8
Starter
DIAGNOSTICS/TROUBLESHOOTING
GENERAL
The TROUBLESHOOTING table, starting on page 5-5, contains detailed procedures to solve and correct problems. Follow the ELECTRIC STARTING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
diagram on page 5-7 to diagnose starting system problems.
The VOLTAGE DROPS procedure below will help you to
locate poor connections or components with excessive voltage drops.
7.
If the voltage drop is greater, back track through the connections until the source of the potential difference is
found.
The benefit of doing it this way is speed.
a.
Readings aren’t as sensitive to real battery voltage.
b.
Readings show the actual voltage dropped, not just
the presence of voltage.
c.
This tests the system as it is actually being used. It
is more accurate and will display hard to find poor
connections.
d.
This approach can be used on lighting circuits, ignition circuits, etc. Start from most positive and go to
most negative (the destination or component).
VOLTAGE DROPS
Check the integrity of all wiring, switches, circuit breakers and
connectors between the source and destination.
The voltage drop test measures the difference in potential or
the actual voltage dropped between the source and destination.
1.
See ITEM A in Figure 5-4. Attach your red meter lead to
the most positive part of the circuit, which in this case
would be the positive post of the battery.
2.
See ITEM B in Figure 5-4. Attach the black meter lead to
the final destination or component in the circuit (solenoid
terminal from relay).
3.
Activate the starter and observe the meter reading. The
meter will read the voltage dropped or the difference in
potential between the source and destination.
4.
An ideal circuit’s voltage drop would be 0 volts or no voltage dropped, meaning no difference in potential.
5.
See ITEM C in Figure 5-4. An open circuit should read 12
volts, displaying all the voltage dropped, and the entire
difference in potential displayed on the meter.
6.
Typically, a good circuit will drop less than 1 volt.
8.
See ITEM D in Figure 5-4. The negative or ground circuit
can be checked as well. Place the negative lead on the
most negative part of the circuit (or the negative battery
post). Remember, there is nothing more negative than
the negative post of the battery. Place the positive lead to
the ground you wish to check.
9.
Activate the circuit. This will allow you to read the potential difference or voltage dropped on the negative or
ground circuit. This is very effective for identifying poor
grounds due to powdered paint. Even the slightest connection may cause an ohmmeter to give a good reading.
However, when sufficient current is passed through, the
resistance caused by the powdered paint will cause a
voltage drop, or potential difference in the ground circuit.
5-9
STARTER SYSTEM TESTING
“ON-MOTORCYCLE” TESTS
b0208x5x
Starter Relay Test
1.
See Figure 5-5. Locate starter relay. The relay is
attached to the frame near the oil tank’s feed hose.
Unplug relay connector.
2.
To test relay, proceed to Step 3. If installing a new starter
relay, remove old relay. Secure new relay to frame using
screw and washer. Attach relay connector plug.
3.
See Figure 5-6. Obtain a 12 volt battery and a continuity
tester or ohmmeter. Connect positive battery lead to the
86 terminal. Connect negative battery lead to the 85 terminal to energize relay. Check for continuity between the
30 and 87 terminals. A good relay shows continuity, continuity tester lamp “on” or a zero ohm reading on the
ohmmeter. A malfunctioning relay will not show continuity
and must be replaced.
4.
If starter relay is functioning properly, proceed to
STARTER CURRENT DRAW TEST.
Starter relay
Figure 5-5. Starter Relay Location
b0159x5x
Ohmmeter
Starter Current Draw Test
NOTE
●
●
Engine temperature should be stable and at room temperature.
Battery should be fully charged.
Check starter current draw with an induction ammeter before
disconnecting battery. Proceed as follows:
1.
See Figure 5-7. Verify that transmission is in neutral. Disconnect spark plug wires from spark plug terminals.
2.
Clamp induction ammeter over positive battery cable
next to starter.
3.
With ignition key switch ON, turn engine over by pressing
starter switch while taking a reading on the ammeter.
Disregard initial high current reading which is normal
when engine is first turned over.
●
4.
Typical starter current draw will range between 140180 amperes.
If starter current draw exceeds 180 amperes, then the
problem may be in the starter or starter drive. Remove
starter for further tests. See STARTER, REMOVAL on
page 5-11.
OO
87
Battery
86
87A
85
30
1.
2.
3.
Attach battery positive lead to 86 terminal.
Attach battery negative lead to 85 terminal.
Test for continuity between 30 and 87 terminals.
A good relay shows continuity or 0 ohms.
Figure 5-6. Starter Relay Test
b0160x5x
Induction
ammeter
Battery
Typical starter current draw is 140-180 amperes.
Figure 5-7. Starter Draw Test
5-10
STARTER
REMOVAL
1WARNING
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before performing any of the following procedures. Always
disconnect the negative cable first. If the positive cable
should contact ground with the negative cable installed,
the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion
resulting in personal injury.
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when loosening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable will cause battery damage.
1.
Remove primary cover. See PRIMARY CHAIN in Section 6.
2.
See Figure 5-8. Remove the starter mounting bolts and
washers.
3550a
Mounting bolts
and washers
NOTE
A ball hex driver may be required to gain access to the starter
mounting bolts.
3.
Remove positive battery lead and solenoid wire from
starter.
4.
Remove starter and gasket from right side of motorcycle.
TESTING ASSEMBLED STARTER
Figure 5-8. Starter Mounting
b0161x5x
“C” terminal
“50” terminal
Starter Solenoid
NOTE
Do not disassemble solenoid. Before testing, disconnect field
wire from terminal “C,” as shown in Figure 5-9.
1CAUTION
Each test should be performed for only 3-5 seconds to
prevent damage to solenoid.
NOTE
The solenoid Pull-in, Hold-in, and Return tests must be performed together in one continuous operation. All three tests
are conducted one after the other in the sequence given without interruption.
Battery
Figure 5-9. Pull-In Test
Solenoid Pull-in Test
See Figure 5-9. Using a 12 volt battery, connect three separate test leads as follows:
a.
Solenoid housing to battery negative.
b.
Solenoid “C” terminal to battery negative.
c.
Solenoid “50” terminal to battery positive.
Starter pinion should pull in strongly if solenoid is working
properly. If pinion does not pull in, solenoid should be
replaced.
5-11
5
Solenoid Hold-in Test
See Figure 5-10. With test leads still connected in the manner
specified in the previous SOLENOID PULL-IN TEST, disconnect solenoid “C” terminal/battery negative test lead at
battery negative end only; reconnect loose end of this
test lead to battery positive, instead. If pinion remains in
pull-in position, solenoid is working properly. If pinion does
not remain in pull-in position, solenoid should be replaced.
DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
1.
See Figure 5-14. Remove field wire (22).
2.
See Figure 5-12. Remove thru-bolts.
b0162x5x
4860
“C” terminal
“50” terminal
Battery
Thru-bolts
Figure 5-10. Hold-In Test
Solenoid Return Test
Figure 5-12. Removing the Thru-Bolts
See Figure 5-11. With test leads still connected in the manner
specified at the end of the previous SOLENOID HOLD-IN
TEST, disconnect solenoid “50” terminal/battery positive
test lead at either end. If pinion returns to its original position, the solenoid is working properly. If pinion does not return
to its original position, solenoid should be replaced.
3.
See Figure 5-13. Remove two end cover screws, O-rings,
and end cover.
3548a
b0163x5x
“C” terminal
“50” terminal
End cover
screws (2)
Battery
End cover
Figure 5-11. Return Test
5-12
Figure 5-13. Removing End Cover
b0004o5x
23
3
4
2
5
7
1
23
3
6
22
8
14
13
15
17
11
18
12
16
9
10
21
19
20
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Thru-bolt (2)
End cover screw (2)
End cover
Brush holder
Brush spring (4)
Armature
7.
8.
9.
Field frame
Armature bearings
Drive housing mounting bolt
and lockwasher (2)
10. Drive housing
11. Solenoid housing
12. Drive assembly/overrunning
clutch
13. Idler gear
14. Idler gear roller (5)
15. Idler gear bearing cage
16. O-ring
17. Return spring
18. Ball
19. Gasket
20. Washer (2)
21. Mounting bolt (2)
22. Field wire
23. O-ring (2)
Figure 5-14. Starter Assembly
5-13
4.
5.
See Figure 5-15. Use a wire hook to pull upward on
brush springs, and lift brushes out of holder. Remove
brush holder.
3540a
Check brush length. Replace all four brushes if length of
any one brush is less than 0.433 in. (11.0 mm).
Replace brushes in sets of four only.
6.
See Figure 5-14. Remove armature (6) and field frame (7).
7.
Place armature in lathe or truing stand and check runout
of commutator. Commutators with more than 0.016 in.
(0.41 mm) of runout should be replaced, or machined on
a lathe. Commutators should be replaced when diameter
is less than 1.141 in. (28.98 mm).
Brush holder
Figure 5-15. Removing Brush Holder
b0136x5x
Segments
Mica must not be left with a
thin edge next to segments
Mica
Starting groove in mica
with 3 cornered file
Wrong way
Segments
Mica must be cut away
clean between segments
Commutator
Undercutting mica with piece
of hacksaw blade
Figure 5-16. Undercutting Mica Separators
5-14
Right way
Mica
1CAUTION
Do not use sandpaper or emery cloth to remove burrs on
commutator. Otherwise, abrasive grit may remain on
commutator segments; this could lead to excessive
brush wear. Use only the recommended crocus cloth.
8.
9.
1783a
Check depth of mica on commutator. If undercut is less
than 0.008 in. (0.20 mm), use an undercutting machine
to undercut the mica to 1/32 in. (0.79 mm) deep. The
slots should then be cleaned to remove any dirt or copper dust. See Figure 5-16. If an undercutting machine is
not available, undercutting can be done satisfactorily
using a thin hacksaw blade. After undercutting, lightly
sand the commutator with crocus cloth to remove any
burrs.
Armature
core
See Figure 5-17. Check for SHORTED ARMATURE with
a growler. Place armature on growler. Hold a thin steel
strip (hacksaw blade) against armature core and slowly
turn armature. A shorted armature will cause the steel
strip to vibrate and be attracted to the core. Replace
armatures if shorted.
Commutator
Replace armatures showing continuity
Figure 5-18. Grounded Armature Test
1782a
Growler
Thin steel strip
1784a
Commutator
Replace armature if no continuity at any test point
Replace armatures which vibrate
Figure 5-19. Open Armature Test
Figure 5-17. Shorted Armature Test Using Growler
10. See Figure 5-18. Check for a GROUNDED ARMATURE
with an ohmmeter or continuity tester. Touch one probe
to any commutator segment. Touch the other probe to
the armature core. There should be no continuity (infinite
ohms). If there is continuity, then the armature is
grounded. Replace grounded armatures.
3542a
Brush on
field coil
11. See Figure 5-19. Check for OPEN ARMATURE with an
ohmmeter or continuity tester. Check for continuity
between all commutator segments. There should be continuity (0 ohms) at all test points. No continuity at any test
point indicates armature is open and must be replaced.
12. See Figure 5-20. Check for GROUNDED FIELD COIL
with an ohmmeter or continuity tester. Touch one probe
to the frame. Touch the other probe to each of the
brushes attached to the field coil. There should be no
continuity (infinite ohms). If there is any continuity at
either brush, then the field coil(s) are grounded and the
field frame must be replaced.
Field frame
Replace field frames if continuity is found
Figure 5-20. Grounded Field Test
5-15
3538a
1787a
Field wire
Positive brush
holder (insulated)
Brush on
field coil
Replace field frame if no continuity is found
Figure 5-21. Open Field Test
13. See Figure 5-21. Check for OPEN FIELD COILS with an
ohmmeter or continuity tester. Touch one probe to the
field wire. Touch the other probe to each of the brushes
attached to the field coils. There should be continuity. If
there is no continuity at either brush, then the field coil(s)
are open and the field frame must be replaced.
Holder plate
Replace brush holder assembly if continuity is found
14. See Figure 5-22. Test BRUSH HOLDER INSULATION
with an ohmmeter or continuity tester. Touch one probe
to holder plate. Touch the other probe to each of the positive (insulated) brush holders. There should be no continuity (infinite ohms). If there is continuity at either brush
holder, replace the brush holder assembly.
Figure 5-22. Brush Holder Insulation Test
3549a
Drive housing
15. See Figure 5-14. Check armature bearings (8) and
replace if necessary.
16. See Figure 5-23. Remove two drive housing mounting
screws (with washers and lockwashers). Remove drive
housing from solenoid housing.
17. See Figure 5-24. Remove drive (1), idler gear (2), idler
gear bearing (3), and O-ring (4) from drive housing (Oring is located in drive housing groove).
ASSEMBLY
1.
See Figure 5-24. Clean, inspect and lubricate drive
assembly components. Lubricate parts with high temperature grease, such as LUBRIPLATE 110.
2.
See Figure 5-14. When installing drive assembly components, open end of idler bearing cage (15) faces toward
solenoid.
5-16
Solenoid housing
Figure 5-23. Removing Starter Drive Housing
3.
When installing drive housing (10) to solenoid housing
(11), use new O-ring (16). Be sure to install return spring
(17) and ball (18).
4.
Lubricate armature bearings (8) with high temperature
grease, such as LUBRIPLATE 110. Install armature (6)
and field frame (7) to solenoid housing (11).
5.
Install brushes and brush holder (4).
6.
Install end cover (3) with end cover screws (2) and Orings (23).
7.
Install thru-bolts (1).
8.
Install solenoid wire to terminal.
3530a
5
4
3
2
INSTALLATION
1.
Install starter and starter gasket from right side of motorcycle.
2.
Install positive battery cable and solenoid wire to solenoid.
3.
See Figure 5-8. Install the starter mounting bolts and
washers. Tighten mounting bolts to 13-20 ft-lbs (17.627.1Nm).
4.
Install primary cover. See PRIMARY CHAIN in Section 6.
5.
Fill primary chaincase/transmission with proper lubricant.
See CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION FLUID in Section 1.
1WARNING
1
1.
2.
3.
Drive
Idler gear
Idler gear bearing
4.
5.
O-ring
Drive housing
Figure 5-24. Starter Drive Assembly
Always connect positive battery cable first. If the positive
cable should contact ground with the negative cable
installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion resulting in personal injury.
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when tightening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable will cause battery damage.
6.
Connect battery cables, positive cable first. Tighten battery terminal hardware to 30-40 in-lbs (3.4-4.5 Nm).
5-17
STARTER SOLENOID
GENERAL
ASSEMBLY
See Figure 5-25. The starter solenoid is a switch that is
designed to open and close the starting circuit electromagnetically. The switch consists of contacts and a winding around a
hollow cylinder containing a movable plunger.
DISASSEMBLY
1.
See Figure 5-25. Remove screws (1) and clip (2).
2.
Remove cover (3) and gasket (4). Discard gasket.
3.
Remove plunger (5) from solenoid housing (6).
1.
See Figure 5-25. Replace wire connection hardware as
necessary.
2.
Install plunger (5) in solenoid housing (6).
3.
Install new gasket (4) onto cover (3).
4.
Position cover with gasket onto solenoid housing. Install
clip (2) and screws (1).
b0158x5x
1
3
4
2
6
5
1CAUTION
Do not tighten nut (7) without
removing items 1-5. Movement will
cause damage to the contact.
7
Figure 5-25. Starter Solenoid
5-18
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Screw (3)
Clip
Cover
Gasket
Plunger
Solenoid housing
Nut
6
SPECIFICATIONS
TRANSMISSION
Transmission Type
5 forward speed, foot shift
Engine sprocket
35 teeth
Wet – multiple disc
Clutch sprocket
56 teeth
Ratio
1.60: 1
Clutch Type
Clutch fluid capacity
PRIMARY DRIVE (ENGINE-TO-TRANSMISSION)
1.0 quart
0.95 liter
Fluid part no.-quart
98854-96
Fluid part no.-gallon
98855-96
TRANSMISSION GEAR RATIOS
FINAL DRIVE (TRANSMISSION-TO-REAR WHEEL)
FINAL*
OVERALL**
First (Low) Gear
2.69
9.717
Second Gear
1.97
7.118
Third Gear
1.43
5.180
Fourth Gear
1.18
4.269
Fifth (High) Gear
1.00
3.615
Transmission sprocket
27 teeth
Rear wheel sprocket
61 teeth
Secondary drive belt
128 teeth
Ratio
2.26:1
*Final gear ratios indicate number of mainshaft revolutions
required to drive output sprocket one revolution.
**Overall gear ratios indicate number of engine revolutions
required to drive rear wheel one revolution.
CLUTCH PLATE
THICKNESS
NUMBER
REQUIRED
NEW COMPONENTS
SERVICE WEAR LIMITS
IN.
MM
IN.
MM
Friction plate (fiber)
8
0.0866 + 0.0031
2.200 + 0.079
0.006
0.15
Steel plate
6
0.0629 + 0.0020
1.598 + 0.051
0.006
0.15
0.661
minimum
16.79
minimum
Clutch pack
NOTE
Service wear limits are given as a guideline for measuring components that are not new. For measurement specifications not
given under SERVICE WEAR LIMITS, see NEW COMPONENTS.
6-1
ITEM
TORQUE
NOTES
Access door mounting bolts
13-17 ft-lbs
18-23 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue), page 6-30
Clutch inspection cover
TORX screws with washers
7-9 ft-lbs
9-12 Nm
page 6-3
Clutch mainshaft nut
70-80 ft-lbs
95-108 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red), left hand
threads, page 6-13
Countershaft retainer
TORX screw
13-17 ft-lbs
18-23 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue), page 6-25
Engine sprocket nut
150-165 ft-lbs
203-224 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red), page 6-13
Isolator bolts
100-110 ft-lbs
135.6-149.1
Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red), page 6-7
Primary chain adjuster locknut
10-12 ft-lbs
14-16 Nm
on interior of chaincase, page 6-4
Primary chain adjuster locknut
20-25 ft-lbs
27-34 Nm
on exterior of chaincase, page 6-4
Primary chain inspection
cover screws
40-60 in-lbs
4.5-6.8 Nm
page 6-3
Primary cover bolts
80-110 in-lbs
9.0-12.4 Nm
3 lengths, page 6-5
40-45 ft-lbs
47.5-61.0 Nm
metric, page 6-7
100-120
in-lbs
11.3-13.6 Nm
page 6-5
90-110 in-lbs
10.2-12.4 Nm
same torque for top and bottom nuts, page 6-30
Tie bar bolts
30-33 ft-lbs
40.7-44.7 Nm
page 6-7
Transmission detent plate nut
13-17 ft-lbs
18-23 Nm
page 6-19
Transmission drain plug
14-21 ft-lbs
19-28 Nm
page 6-5
Rear shock mounting bolts
Shift lever pinch screw
Shifter shaft assembly nuts
Transmission sprocket nut
Transmission sprocket screws
6-2
See note
90-110 in-lbs
10.2-12.4 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red), left hand
threads, special torque turn method, page 6-30
replace after 3 removals, page 6-31
PRIMARY CHAIN
GENERAL
REMOVAL
An opening between the primary drive and transmission compartments allows the same lubricant supply to lubricate moving parts in both compartments.
Primary Cover
Since the primary chain runs in lubricant, little service will be
required other than checking lubricant level and chain tension. If, through hard usage, the primary chain does become
worn, it must be replaced. Remove and install the chain following the procedure under PRIMARY DRIVE/CLUTCH,
REMOVAL on page 6-10.
ADJUSTMENT/LUBRICATION
1WARNING
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding. Always disconnect the negative cable first. If
the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
1.
Raise rear wheel off floor using REAR WHEEL
SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41174).
2.
Remove muffler. See EXHAUST SYSTEM in Section 2.
3.
See Figure 6-1. Place a drain pan under the engine.
Remove drain plug (9) and drain lubricant from primary
drive.
4.
Remove shift lever assembly (12) and rubber washer
(13). Do not to scratch primary cover (15).
5.
Add freeplay to clutch cable. See CLUTCH in Section 1.
See PRIMARY CHAIN in Section 1 for inspection and adjustment procedures.
See CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION FLUID in Section 1 for complete lubrication service on the primary chain.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
b0152a6x
TORX screw with washers (4)
Clutch inspection cover
Spring
Lockplate
Nut
Coupling
Ramp assembly
Quad ring
Drain plug
Locknut
Chain adjuster screw
Shift lever assembly (includes
pinch screw and washer)
Rubber washer
Oil seal
Primary cover
Primary chain
inspection cover
Clutch adjusting screw
15
16
17
12
14
13
11
7
3
4
10
5
8
9
6
2
1
NOTE
Depending upon vehicle production date, configuration
of items 6 and 7 may vary. See CLUTCH in Section 1.
Figure 6-1. Primary cover
6-3
6.
Loosen locknut (10). Turn chain adjuster screw (11) counterclockwise (outward) to relax primary chain tension.
7.
Remove four TORX screws with washers (1) and clutch
inspection cover (2). Remove and discard Quad ring (2)
from groove in primary cover.
8.
Slide spring (3) with attached hex lockplate (4) from flats
of clutch adjusting screw (17).
9.
3547
1
Turn clutch adjusting screw (17) clockwise to release
ramp and coupling mechanism. As the adjusting screw is
turned, ramp assembly (7) moves forward. Unscrew nut
(5) from end of adjusting screw.
10. Remove hook of ramp from button to the rear of cable
end coupling (6). Remove cable end from slot in coupling. Remove coupling and ramp assembly.
4
6
5
2
3
1.
2.
3.
Primary cover
Locknut (exterior)
Chain adjuster screw
4.
5.
6.
Locknut (interior)
Plate
Shoe
Figure 6-2. Removing Primary Chain Adjuster
11. Remove screws which secure primary cover. Remove
cover and gasket. Discard gasket.
b0133x6x
Primary Chain Adjuster
1.
See Figure 6-2. Remove primary cover (1).
2.
Remove locknut (2) from chain adjuster screw (3). Turn
adjuster screw out of threaded boss in primary cover.
3.
4
7
5
3
Threaded
boss
Slide shoe (6) off plate (5) (shoe must be slid off plate
toward closed or blind side of shoe). Remove locknut (4)
and plate (5).
INSTALLATION
1
Primary Chain Adjuster
1.
See Figure 6-3. If shoe (6) is badly worn, replace it or
adjust assembly.
2.
Install plate (5) over top of chain adjuster screw (3).
Place spacer (7) over top of adjuster screw next to plate.
Secure plate and spacer to adjuster screw by threading
on locknut (4). Tighten locknut to 10-12 ft-lbs (14-16 Nm).
3.
Place plate into slots at open end of shoe (6). Slide shoe
over plate until locknut at top end of adjuster screw is
against closed (blind) side of shoe.
4.
Position adjuster inside primary cover (1) with closed
side of shoe against cover. Thread adjuster screw into
tapped boss at bottom of primary cover. At outside of
cover, install locknut (2) onto adjuster screw with nylon
sealing surface toward cover.
5.
Install primary cover.
6-4
6
Open
side
12. Remove and discard shift lever oil seal (14).
Nylon sealing
surface
1.
2.
3.
4.
Primary cover
Locknut (exterior)
Chain adjuster screw
Locknut (interior)
2
5.
6.
7.
Plate
Shoe
Spacer
Figure 6-3. Primary Chain Adjuster
Primary Cover
x0023a6x
1.
Remove foreign material from magnetic drain plug. Install
plug and tighten to 14-21 ft-lbs (19-28 Nm).
2.
Wipe gasket surface clean. Install new gasket on primary
cover.
3.
See Figure 6-4. Install primary cover and gasket onto left
crankcase half using mounting bolts. Tighten bolts to 80110 in-lbs (9.0-12.4 Nm).
1
2
1
2
2
4.
See Figure 6-1. Install new shift lever oil seal (14).
5.
Fit coupling (6) over clutch cable end. Place hook of
ramp (7) around coupling button and rotate assembly
counterclockwise until tang on inner ramp fits in slot of
primary cover.
6.
Thread nut (5) on adjusting screw (17) until slot of screw
is accessible with a screwdriver. Fit nut hex into recess of
outer ramp and turn adjusting screw counterclockwise.
7.
Fill transmission to proper level with fresh lubricant. See
CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION FLUID in Section 1.
8.
Adjust clutch. See CLUTCH, ADJUSTMENT in Section 1.
9.
Adjust primary chain tension. See PRIMARY CHAIN,
ADJUSTMENT in Section 1.
1
1.
2.
3.
3
1
1/4-20 x 1-3/4 in. bolt with washers (7)
1/4-20 x 2-1/4 in. bolt with washers (4)
5/16-18 x 3-1/2 in. bolt with washers (2)
Figure 6-4. Install Primary Cover Bolts
5583
Primary chain
inspection cover
Shift lever
10. Install rubber washer (13) and shift lever assembly (12).
Shift lever must bisect primary chain inspection cover.
See Figure 6-5. Tighten pinch screw to 100-120 in-lbs
(11.3-13.6 Nm).
11. Install muffler. See EXHAUST SYSTEM in Section 2.
Figure 6-5. Shift Lever
1WARNING
Always connect positive battery cable first. If the positive
cable should contact ground with the negative cable
installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when tightening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
12. Connect battery cables, positive cable first.
6-5
SECONDARY DRIVE BELT
GENERAL
5673
The secondary drive belt should be checked for unusual
wear, cracking or loss of teeth. Check the belt sprocket for
unusual wear, broken teeth or damaged flange.
Attach straps
to frame
See REAR BELT DEFLECTION in Section 1 for inspection,
adjustment and cleaning procedures.
Floor hoist
REMOVAL
Belt removal requires special lifts to support the motorcycle. If
you do not have the proper equipment, have your Buell dealer
perform the repair.
1.
2.
Lift and secure the motorcycle.
a.
Place vehicle on a lift and anchor front wheel in
place.
b.
Raise rear wheel off lift using REAR WHEEL SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41174).
Drain oil tank. See ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM in
Section 1.
Figure 6-6. Floor Hoist
5674
1WARNING
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding. Always disconnect the negative cable first. If
the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when loosening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
3.
Disconnect both battery cables, negative cable first.
4.
Remove rear fender. See FENDERS in Section 2.
5.
Remove rear caliper. See REAR BRAKE CALIPER,
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY in Section 2.
6.
Remove lower belt guard and sprocket cover. See
SPROCKET COVER and FENDERS in Section 2.
7.
Remove seat, fuel tank and tail section. See TAIL SECTION, REMOVAL in Section 2.
8.
Remove air cleaner assembly. See AIR CLEANER,
REMOVAL in Section 4.
9.
Detach belt from rear sprocket.
a.
Loosen rear axle nut (metric).
b.
Loosen both rear axle adjuster nuts on swingarm.
c.
Slide wheel forward.
d.
Remove belt from rear sprocket.
Jack under
crankcase
Crating strap
Figure 6-7. Crating Strap
13. Remove muffler and exhaust header. See EXHAUST
SYSTEM in Section 2.
14. Detach feed, vent and return hoses from oil tank.
15. See Figure 6-7. Place a jack underneath the rear swingarm and underneath the front of the crankcase.
16. Place a crating strap over swingarm and around lift.
Tighten crating strap until snug.
17. Detach tie bars from frame mounts in the following
sequence. Do not remove tie bars from engine.
10. Remove both rider footrests from frame.
a.
Rear tie bar. Use a swivel socket.
11. See Figure 6-6. Place a floor hoist behind the lift. Attach
straps to frame and hoist. Raise hoist until straps tighten.
b.
Top tie bar.
c.
Front tie bar and clutch cable clamp.
12. Remove rear shock mounting bolt (metric) from swingarm. Allow rear shock to hang from front mount.
6-6
18. Remove isolator bolts and washers on each side.
19. Slowly raise floor hoist until rubber isolators can be
removed. Frame will rise while swingarm and engine
remain secured to lift by crating strap.
NOTE
Rubber isolators align with a frame mounted metal pin.
20. Remove belt through gap between frame and swingarm
mount block.
INSTALLATION
1.
2.
Install new belt over sprockets.
Install rubber isolators.
a.
Align metal pin on frame with hole in isolator.
b.
Slowly lower floor hoist to drop frame and isolators
around swingarm mount block.
NOTE
If isolator fit is troublesome, place a flat tool such a disposable
putty knife between swingarm mount block and isolator. As
frame lowers, withdraw tool when edge of isolator slides
around edge of mount block.
3.
4.
Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red) to isolator
bolts. Install isolator bolts and washers through isolators
and into swingarm mount block. Tighten bolts to 100-110
ft-lbs (135.6-149.1 Nm).
10. Install muffer and exhaust header. See EXHAUST SYSTEM in Section 2.
11. Align belt and rear wheel. See REAR BELT DEFLECTION in Section 1.
12. Install rider footrests. See FOOTRESTS, INSTALLATION
in Section 2.
13. Install air cleaner. See AIR CLEANER, INSTALLATION in
Section 4.
14. Install sprocket cover and rear belt guard. See
SPROCKET COVER and FENDERS in Section 2.
15. Install rear fender. See FENDERS, REMOVAL/INSTALLATION in Section 2.
16. Install rear caliper. See REAR BRAKE CALIPER, INSTALLATION in Section 2.
1WARNING
After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be
sure it is locked in position. If seat is loose, it could shift
during vehicle operation and startle the rider, causing
loss of control and personal injury.
17. Install tail section, fuel tank and seat. See TAIL SECTION, INSTALLATION in Section 2.
1WARNING
Attach tie bars to frame in the following order.
a.
Place clutch cable clamp on front tie bar bolt. Clamp
should hold cable on air cleaner side of motor. Insert
bolt from front through frame and tie bar. Fasten with
flat washer and nut. Tighten to 30-33 ft-lbs (40.744.7 Nm).
b.
Insert bolt through top tie bar, washer, spacer and
frame tab. Secure with locknut. Tighten to 30-33 ftlbs (40.7-44.7 Nm).
c.
Rear tie bar must be horizontal and below frame tab.
Insert bolt upwards through tie bar and frame. Fasten with nut. Tighten to 30-33 ft-lbs (40.7-44.7 Nm).
5.
Remove crating strap from lift and swingarm.
6.
Remove jacks from underneath swingarm and crankcase.
7.
Attach rear shock to swingarm with bolt (metric) and nut.
Tighten to 40-45 ft-lbs (47.5-61.0 Nm).
8.
Remove floor hoist straps from frame.
9.
Connect and fill lubrication system. See ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM in Section 1.
Always connect positive battery cable first. If the positive
cable should contact ground with the negative cable
installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion resulting in personal injury.
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when tightening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
18. Connect both battery cables, positive cable first.
19. Perform the following tests.
a.
Check license plate lamp illumination.
b.
Check oil level after starting vehicle and allowing
motorcycle to reach normal operating temperature.
20. Remove supports.
a.
Remove REAR WHEEL SUPPORT STAND.
b.
Free front wheel and remove motorcycle from lift.
6-7
CLUTCH
GENERAL
See Figure 6-9. The purpose of the clutch is to smoothly disengage and engage the engine from the rear wheel for starting, stopping and shifting gears.
The clutch is a wet, multiple-disc clutch with six steel plates
(19), one spring plate (20), and eight fiber (friction) plates (18)
stacked alternately in the clutch shell (26). The order of plate
assembly, from inboard to outboard, is as follows:
F - St - F - St - F - St - F - Sp - F - St - F - St - F - St - F
(F = Friction plate, St = Steel plate, Sp = Spring plate)
The friction plates (clutch driving plates) are keyed to the
clutch shell (26), which is driven by the engine through the
primary chain. The steel plates (clutch driven plates) and the
centrally located spring plate (also a clutch driven plate) are
keyed to the clutch hub (23), which drives the rear wheel
through the transmission and secondary drive belt.
When the clutch is engaged (clutch lever released), the diaphragm spring (11) applies strong inward force against the
pressure plate (17); the pressure plate then presses the
clutch plates (18, 19 and 20) together, allowing no slippage
between the plates and causing the plates to turn as a single
unit. The result is that the rotational force of the clutch shell
(26) is fully transmitted through the “locked” clutch plates to
the clutch hub (23). As long as the transmission is set in a forward gear, power from the engine will be transmitted to the
rear wheel.
When the clutch is disengaged (clutch lever pulled to left handlebar grip), the pressure plate (17) is pulled outward (by
clutch cable action) against the diaphragm spring (11),
thereby compressing the diaphragm spring. With the pressure
plate retracted, strong inward force no longer squeezes the
clutch plates (18, 19 and 20) together. The friction plates (18)
are now free to rotate at a different relative speed than that of
the steel and spring plates (19, 20) (i.e. – slippage between
the clutch plates occurs). The result is that the rotational force
of the clutch shell (26) is no longer fully transmitted through
the “unlocked” clutch plates to the clutch hub (23). The engine
is free to rotate at a different speed than the rear wheel.
Table 6-1. Clutch Troubleshooting
SYMPTOM
CAUSE (CHECK IN FOLLOWING ORDER)
REMEDY
Clutch slips.
Incorrect clutch release adjustment.
Worn clutch plates.
Check and adjust clutch release mechanism.
Check service wear limits. Replace plates.
Clutch drags.
Incorrect clutch release adjustment.
Worn clutch release ramps or balls.
Warped clutch steel plates.
Blade worn or damaged clutch gear splines.
Overfilled primary.
Check and adjust clutch release mechanism.
Replace release ramps and/or balls.
Replace clutch steel plates.
Replace clutch gear or hub as required.
Drain lubricant to correct level.
6-8
CLUTCH RELEASE MECHANISM
ADJUSTMENT
CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
See CLUTCH, ADJUSTMENT in Section 1.
DISASSEMBLY
1WARNING
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding. Always disconnect the negative cable first. If
the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
1.
Pull clutch cable ferrule (end of cable housing) away from
clutch hand lever bracket. Gap between ferrule and
bracket should be 1/16-1/8 (1.6-3.2 mm). Adjust freeplay
by turning cable adjuster.
2.
See Figure 6-8. Remove four TORX screws with washers
(1) and clutch inspection cover (2).
3.
Slide spring (3) with attached screw lockplate (4) from
flats of adjusting screw (12).
4.
Turn adjusting screw (12) clockwise to release ramp and
coupling mechanism. As the adjusting screw is turned,
ramp assembly moves forward. Unscrew nut (5) from end
of adjusting screw.
5.
Remove hook of ramp from cable end coupling (16).
Remove cable end (10) from slot in coupling.
6.
Remove retaining ring (13) from ramp assembly to separate inner and outer halves. Remove three balls (7) from
ramp sockets.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
TORX screw with washer (4)
Clutch inspection cover
Spring
Adjusting screw lockplate
Nut
Outer ramp
Ball (3)
O-ring
Cable end fitting
Clutch cable end
Primary cover
Clutch adjusting screw
assembly
Retaining ring
2
Quad ring
Inner ramp
Coupling
1
1.
Thoroughly clean all parts in cleaning solvent.
2.
See Figure 6-8. Inspect three balls (7) of release mechanism and ball socket surfaces of inner and outer ramps
for wear, pitting, surface breakdown and other damage.
Replace parts as necessary.
3.
Check hub fit of inner (15) and outer (6) ramps. Replace
ramps if excessively worn.
4.
Check clutch cable for frayed or worn ends. Replace
cable if damaged or worn.
5.
Change or add transmission fluid if necessary. See
CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION FLUID in Section 1.
ASSEMBLY
1.
See Figure 6-8. Apply multi-purpose grease to balls (7)
and ramps (6, 15). Insert balls in sockets of outer ramp.
Install inner ramp on hub of outer ramp with tang 180°
from hook of outer ramp. Install retaining ring in groove of
outer ramp hub.
2.
Fit coupling (16) over cable end. Place hook of ramp
around coupling button and rotate assembly counterclockwise until tang on inner ramp fits in slot of primary
cover (11).
3.
Thread nut (5) on adjusting screw (12) until slot of screw
is accessible with a screwdriver. Fit nut hex into recess of
outer ramp and turn adjusting screw counterclockwise
until resistance is felt.
4.
Adjust clutch release mechanism. See CLUTCH,
ADJUSTMENT in Section 1.
11
b0131x6x
12
10
9
8
3
4
5
6
7
13
15
16
14
NOTE
Depending upon vehicle production date,
configuration of items 6 and 16 may vary.
See CLUTCH in Section 1.
Figure 6-8. Clutch Release Mechanism
6-9
PRIMARY DRIVE/CLUTCH
REMOVAL
1WARNING
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding. Always disconnect the negative cable first. If
the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
NOTE
See Figure 6-9. If replacement of clutch pack (friction plates
[18], steel plates [19], and spring plate [20]) is the only service work to be performed, perform REMOVAL Step 1 only,
and then proceed to DISASSEMBLY, NOTE.
1.
Remove primary cover. See PRIMARY CHAIN on
page 6-3.
2.
Install SPROCKET LOCKING LINK (Part No. HD38362). Remove the engine sprocket nut. Loosen, but do
not remove, engine sprocket. If necessary, use the slotted portion of TWO CLAW PULLER (Part No. HD-9729261) and two bolts to loosen the engine sprocket.
1WARNING
See Figure 6-10. Do not attempt to disassemble the
clutch without SPRING COMPRESSING TOOL (Part No.
HD-38515-A), CLUTCH SPRING FORCING SCREW (Part
No. HD-38515-91) and proper eye protection. Otherwise,
the highly compressed diaphragm spring could fly out
with great force, possibly causing personal injury.
2.
Thread the CLUTCH SPRING FORCING SCREW (Part
No. HD-38515-91) (item 1, Figure 6-10.) onto the clutch
adjusting screw (item 16, Figure 6-9.) Place the bridge
(item 2, Figure 6-10.) of SPRING COMPRESSING TOOL
(Part No. HD-38515-A) against diaphragm spring (item
10, Figure 6-9.) Thread the tool handle (item 3, Figure 610.) onto end of forcing screw.
1CAUTION
See Figure 6-9. Turn compressing tool handle only the
amount required to remove spring seat (10) and snap
ring (9). Excessive compression of diaphragm spring
could damage clutch pressure plate.
3.
Remove retaining ring (12). Remove adjusting screw
assembly (13, 14, 15 and 16) from pressure plate (17).
See Figure 6-10. With a wrench on the clutch spring forcing screw flats to prevent the forcing screw from turning,
turn handle clockwise until tool relieves pressure on snap
ring (9) and spring seat (10).
4.
1CAUTION
Clutch hub nut (21) has left-hand threads. To prevent
damage, turn nut clockwise to loosen and remove from
mainshaft.
Remove snap ring (9) and spring seat (10) from the
groove in clutch hub (23) prongs. Remove the assembly
of diaphragm spring (11), pressure plate (17), adjusting
screw components, and compressing tool.
5.
Turn the compressing tool handle counterclockwise until
the clutch spring forcing screw disconnects from the
clutch adjusting screw (16). Remove snap ring (9), spring
seat (10), and diaphragm spring (11) from pressure plate
(17) assembly.
6.
DISASSEMBLY
Remove retaining ring (12) and adjusting screw assembly (13, 14, 15 and 16) from pressure plate (17). If necessary, disassemble adjusting screw assembly by removing
retaining ring (14), and then separating the remaining
adjusting screw components (13, 15 and 16).
7.
NOTE
See Figure 6-9. If replacement of clutch pack (friction plates
[18], steel plates [19], and spring plate [20]) is the only service work to be performed, perform DISASSEMBLY Steps 2,
3, 4, 5 and 7 only, and then proceed to INSPECTION AND
REPAIR, NOTE. Observe all 1WARNING and
1CAUTION statements which apply to the steps specified.
Remove the clutch pack, which consists of eight friction
plates (18), six steel plates (19), and a spring plate (20),
from the clutch hub (23).
1CAUTION
Due to the possible damage to the bearing (25), the
clutch hub (23) and shell (26) assembly should not be
disassembled unless the bearing, hub, or shell require
replacement. If the assembly is pressed apart, the bearing must be replaced.
1.
8.
Remove retaining ring (27) from inboard end of clutch
hub (23). Using an arbor press, separate clutch hub (23)
from assembly of clutch shell (26), bearing (25), and
retaining ring (24).
9.
Remove retaining ring (24) from groove in clutch shell
(26). Press on the inboard side of bearing (25) outer race
to remove bearing from clutch shell.
3.
4.
Remove nut (21) and washer (22). Remove the clutch
assembly, primary chain, and engine sprocket as an
assembly from the vehicle.
5.
If primary chain is damaged or excessively worn, remove
it from engine sprocket and clutch assembly; replace
original primary chain with a new one.
See Figure 6-9. With clutch assembly removed from primary chaincase, reinstall adjusting screw assembly (13,
14, 15 and 16) into pressure plate (17), noting that two
tabs on perimeter of release plate (13) must be inserted
into corresponding recesses in pressure plate (17).
Secure the adjusting screw assembly with retaining ring
(12).
6-10
b0009b6x
27
26
25
24
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
Spring
Locking plate
Well nut
Coupling
Outer ramp
Ball (3)
Inner ramp
Retaining ring
Snap ring
Spring seat
Diaphragm spring
Retaining ring
Release plate
Retaining ring
Bearing
Adjusting screw
7
5
3
2
1
6
4
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
Pressure plate
Friction plate (8)
Steel plate (6)
Spring plate
Mainshaft nut
Washer
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
Clutch hub
Retaining ring
Bearing
Clutch shell
Retaining ring
NOTE
Depending upon vehicle production date,
configuration of items 4 and 5 may vary. See
CLUTCH in Section 1.
Figure 6-9. Clutch Assembly
6-11
6.
Check the primary chain sprocket and the starter ring
gear on the clutch shell (26). If either sprocket or ring
gear are badly worn or damaged, replace the clutch
shell.
7.
Check the slots that mate with the clutch plates on both
clutch shell and hub. If slots are worn or damaged,
replace shell and/or hub.
8.
Check the diaphragm spring (11) for cracks or bent tabs.
Install a new spring if either condition exists.
3555
3
2
ASSEMBLY
NOTE
See Figure 6-9. If replacement of clutch pack (friction plates
[18], steel plates [19], and spring plate [20]) is the only service work to be performed, perform ASSEMBLY Steps 2, 5, 6,
7, and 8 only, and then proceed to INSTALLATION, NOTE.
Observe all 1WARNING and 1CAUTION statements
which apply to the steps specified.
1
1.
Clutch spring
forcing screw
2.
3.
1.
See Figure 6-9. If the assembly of the clutch hub (23)
and shell (26) was disassembled, press new bearing
(25) in clutch shell; secure bearing with a new retaining
ring (24). Press inboard end of clutch hub into shell bearing; secure with new retaining ring (27) on end of hub.
2.
Install the clutch pack, which consists of eight friction
plates (18), six steel plates (19), and a spring plate (20),
into the clutch hub (23). The order of plate assembly,
from inboard to outboard, is as follows:
Bridge
Tool handle
Figure 6-10. Compressing Clutch Diaphragm Spring
INSPECTION/REPAIR
NOTE
If replacement of clutch pack (friction plates [18], steel plates
[19], and spring plate [20]) is the only service work to be performed, perform all INSPECTION AND REPAIR steps (except
Step 5), and then proceed to ASSEMBLY, NOTE.
F-
St
-F-
St
-F-
St
-F-
Sp
-F-
St
-F-
St
-F-
St
-F
INBOARD ............................................................OUTBOARD
F
St
=
=
=
Friction plate
Steel plate
Spring plate
See Figure 6-9. Wash all parts, except the friction (driven)
plates (18) and bearing (25), in cleaning solvent. Blow dry
with compressed air. Examine the clutch components as follows:
If disassembled, assemble bearing (15) and adjusting screw
(16) in release plate (13); secure with new retaining ring (14).
1.
Check for worn lining surface.
3.
2.
Inspect for checked or chipped lining.
3.
Inspect each steel (drive) plate (19) for grooves. Also,
check each steel plate for flatness in several places using
a feeler gauge; the plate must be placed on a surface
plate or flat surface. Replace any plates that are damaged or that are warped more than 0.006 in. (0.15 mm).
Install adjusting screw assembly (13, 14, 15 and 16) into
pressure plate (17), noting that two tabs on perimeter of
release plate (13) must be inserted into corresponding
recesses in pressure plate (17). Secure the adjusting
screw assembly with retaining ring (12).
4.
Position diaphragm spring (11), with its concave side facing inboard (toward pressure plate), onto pressure plate
(17) assembly. Position spring seat (10), with its flat,
larger O.D. side facing inboard (toward diaphragm
spring), and a new snap ring (9) onto convex (outboard)
side of diaphragm spring (11).
5.
Thread the CLUTCH SPRING FORCING SCREW (Part
No. HD-38515-91) (item 1, Figure 6-10.) onto the clutch
adjusting screw (item 16, Figure 6-9.). Place the bridge
(item 2, Figure 6-10.) of SPRING COMPRESSING TOOL
(Part No. HD-38515-A) against diaphragm spring (item
10, Figure 6-9.). Thread the tool handle (item 3, Figure 610.) onto end of forcing screw. Do not tighten compressing tool against diaphragm spring at this time.
4.
5.
Wipe the lubricant from the eight friction plates, and
stack them on top of each other. Measure the thickness
of the eight stacked friction plates with a dial caliper or
micrometer. The minimum thickness must be 0.661 in.
(16.79 mm). If the thickness is less than specified, the
friction plates and steel plates must be discarded, and a
new set of both friction and steel plates must be
installed.
Check the bearing (25) for smoothness by rotating the
clutch shell while holding the clutch hub. If bearing is
rough or binds, it must be replaced.
6-12
Sp
6.
See Figure 6-9. Align square openings of pressure plate
(17) and diaphragm spring (11) so that the assembly can
be installed over prongs of clutch hub (23). Place assembly of spring seat, snap ring, diaphragm spring, pressure
plate, adjusting screw components, and compressing
tool onto clutch hub (23), and against clutch pack.
2.
1CAUTION
1CAUTION
Turn compressing tool handle only the amount required
to install spring seat (10) and snap ring (9). Excessive
compression of diaphragm spring (11) could damage
clutch pressure plate.
7.
8.
Place a wrench on the clutch spring forcing screw flats to
prevent the forcing screw from turning. Turn compressing
tool handle clockwise until diaphragm spring (11) compresses just enough to install spring seat (10) and snap
ring (9) into the groove in clutch hub (23) prongs. With
snap ring positioned against flange face (outboard side)
of spring seat, and fully seated in groove of clutch hub,
carefully loosen and remove compression tool.
Washer (22) must be installed with the word “out” facing
the mainshaft nut (21) or transmission may be damaged.
3.
Apply two or three drops of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER
262 (red) onto threads on end of mainshaft. Install
washer (22) and nut (21) (left-hand threads) on mainshaft. Tighten nut (21) to 70-80 ft-lbs (95-108 Nm).
4.
Install adjusting screw assembly (13, 14, 15 and 16) in
the pressure plate (17), noting that two tabs on perimeter
of release plate (13) must be inserted into corresponding
recesses in pressure plate (17). Secure assembly with a
new retaining ring (12).
5.
Install primary cover. See PRIMARY CHAIN on page 6-5.
Remove retaining ring (12). Remove adjusting screw
assembly (13, 14, 15 and 16) from pressure plate (17).
INSTALLATION
NOTE
See Figure 6-9.If replacement of clutch pack (friction plates
[18], steel plates [19], and spring plate [20]) was the only service work performed, perform INSTALLATION Step 5 only.
1.
Install the engine sprocket, clutch assembly, and primary
chain as a unit into primary chaincase.
Install SPROCKET LOCKING LINK (Part No. HD38362). Apply two or three drops of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red) onto threads of sprocket shaft. Install
the engine sprocket nut. Tighten nut to 150-165 ft-lbs
(203-224 Nm).
1WARNING
Always connect positive battery cable first. If the positive
cable should contact ground with the negative cable
installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion resulting in personal injury.
6.
Connect battery cables, positive cable first.
6-13
TRANSMISSION
GENERAL
LUBRICATION
See Figure 6-11. The transmission is a five-speed constantmesh type housed in an extension of the crankcase. The
transmission permits the rider to vary the ratio of engine
speed-to-rear driving wheel speed in order to meet the varying conditions of operation.
Drain transmission and refill to correct level with fresh, clean
lubricant at least once each year or every 5000 miles (8000
km), whichever comes first. For best results, drain lubricant
while hot.
The transmission is foot-operated by the gear shifter lever,
which transmits the force through a gear shifter shaft. The
shifter shaft actuates a pawl and a shifter fork drum. The
shifter fork drum moves shifter forks, which slide a series of
shifter clutch gears, on the mainshaft and countershaft, into
and out of mesh with the other gears.
6-14
See CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION FLUID in Section 1 for more
information.
XLH transpower flow
1st Gear
Neutral
Mainshaft
Mainshaft
4
1
3
2
Countershaft
5
4
Out
1
In
2nd Gear
In
4
1
Mainshaft
3
Countershaft
2 5
4
Out
1
3
2 5
Countershaft
In
5th Gear
4th Gear
Mainshaft
Mainshaft
Out
4
2 5
Countershaft
3rd Gear
Mainshaft
3
1
In
3
In
2 5
4
Countershaft
Out
1
3
2 5
Countershaft
– Sliding member
– Power flow
Figure 6-11. Transmission Power Flow
6-15
TRANSMISSION CASE
GENERAL
The rear compartment of the left and right crankcase halves
form the transmission case. An access cover (door) allows
removal of transmission components without removing the
engine or disassembling (splitting) the crankcase.
Axle nut (metric)
Axle adjuster nut
REMOVAL
1.
Raise rear wheel off floor using REAR WHEEL SUPPORT STAND (Part No. B-41174).
2.
Remove rear fender. See FENDERS in Section 2.
3.
See Figure 6-12. Loosen rear axle nut (metric). Reduce
tension on secondary drive belt by turning axle adjuster
nuts on each side of swingarm an equal number of turns
counterclockwise. Move rear wheel as far forward as
possible.
4.
Remove muffler. See EXHAUST SYSTEM in Section 2.
Place a drain pan under the engine. Remove drain plug
and drain lubricant from primary drive/transmission.
5.
Remove swingarm/drive support screws and retaining
nut. Remove sprocket cover, washer and spacer.
6.
See Figure 6-13. Place transmission in first gear.
Remove two socket head screws (5) and lockplate (4).
Figure 6-12. Secondary Drive Belt Adjustment
b0249x6x
1
2
1CAUTION
Transmission sprocket nut has left-hand threads. To prevent damage, turn nut clockwise to loosen and remove
from main drive gear shaft.
7.
Remove transmission sprocket nut (3) from main drive
gear shaft (1).
8.
Remove secondary drive belt from transmission sprocket
(2). Remove transmission sprocket from main drive gear
shaft (1).
9.
Remove primary cover. See PRIMARY CHAIN on page 6-3.
3
10. Remove clutch assembly, primary chain and engine
sprocket. See PRIMARY DRIVE/CLUTCH on page 6-10.
11. See Figure 6-14. Lock transmission in gear. Remove
countershaft TORX screw and retainer.
12. See Figure 6-15. Detach spring (1) from groove in
post (2).
13. Remove retaining ring (10) and detent plate (9). You will
need to use a new retaining ring for installation.
14. Remove two locknuts (3) and washers (11) which attach
shifter shaft assembly (6) to studs at transmission case.
Remove shifter shaft assembly.
15. Remove five access door bolts (7) and washers (8).
Remove transmission assembly by pulling it straight outward, away from transmission case.
6-16
5
1.
2.
3.
Main drive gear shaft
Transmission sprocket
Transmission sprocket
nut (left hand threads)
4.
5.
4
Lockplate
Socket head
screw (2)
Figure 6-13. Transmission Sprocket
b0153x6x
3557
Retainer
TORX screw
Figure 6-14. Countershaft Retainer
CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
Thoroughly clean transmission compartment with cleaning
solvent. Blow parts dry with compressed air. Inspect parts to
determine if any must be replaced. Replace all parts that are
badly worn or damaged.
7,8
5
3 11
6
10
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
9
4
1
Spring
Post
Locknut (2)
Detent arm screw
Pawl
Shifter shaft assembly
2
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
7,8
Bolt (5)
Washer (5)
Detent plate
Retaining ring
Washer (2)
Figure 6-15. Shifter Shaft Assembly
Neutral Indicator Switch
See Figure 6-16. The neutral indicator switch is threaded into
the transmission portion of the right crankcase half. See
NEUTRAL INDICATOR SWITCH in Section 7 for testing,
removal and installation procedures.
3553
Neutral indicator
switch
Figure 6-16. Neutral Indicator Switch
6-17
SHIFTER FORKS AND DRUM
DISASSEMBLY
1.
Remove transmission assembly. See TRANSMISSION
CASE, REMOVAL on page 6-16. Mount transmission
assembly in vise with protected jaws.
2.
See Figure 6-17. Remove nut (10), washer (14), screw
(18), drum lock plates (8, 9), detent arm (16), and
spring (17).
3.
Remove and discard the three fork cotter pins (4).
b0128x6x
1
5
Flat side
6
4
3
2
4
5
7
4
5
10
9
8
11
12
21
17
15
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
13
Shifter fork 3rd and 5th gear
Shifter fork 1st and 2nd gear
Shifter fork 4th gear
Cotter pin
Pin, shifter fork
Pin, neutral indicator
Shifter fork drum
16
19
20
18
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
Plate, shifter drum locating
Plate, reinforcing
Nut (2)
Shifter shaft assembly
Nut
Plate, detent
Washer
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
Figure 6-17. Shifter Mechanism
6-18
Bowed snap ring
Detent arm
Spring
Screw, detent
Bearing, mainshaft
Bearing countershaft
Washer
14
4.
5.
6.
Remove three shift fork pins (5). A small magnet is useful
in freeing the fork pins (5).
b0154x6x
7
11
8
Slide shifter drum (7) away from access door, through
shifter forks. The neutral switch pin prevents removal in
the other direction.
5
1.
See Figure 6-17. Clean all parts except bearings (19, 20)
with solvent.
2.
Inspect bearings (19, 20) and shifter drum ends. If ends
of shifter drum are pitted or grooved, replace the shifter
drum and bearings. If replacing bearings, see ACCESS
DOOR BEARINGS on page 6-28.
8
4
Inspect shifter drum (7) for cracks or wear. Replace if
necessary.
ASSEMBLY
See Figure 6-18 for shifter fork identification. See Figure
6-17. Lubricate the shaft bore in fork (1) with SPORTTRANS FLUID. Place 3rd and 5th gear shifter fork (1) in
the fork groove of mainshaft 2nd gear. Be sure the flat
side of fork is facing the access cover.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
1st and
2nd gear
10
2
3
5
Bowed snap ring
Plate, detent
Screw, detent
Spring
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Casting, detent
Post
Plate, shifter drum
Plate, reinforcing
Washer
Nut
Pin
Figure 6-19. Detent Plate Mounting
b0155x6x
4th gear
9
9 10
6
1
1.
7
Remove shift forks (1, 2 and 3).
CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
3.
b0156x6x
3rd and
5th gear
Align the hole through the top of each shifter fork with the
appropriate cam groove in the shifter drum. Lubricate
pins (5) with SPORT-TRANS FLUID. Drop pins (5)
through the holes in shifter forks. With a small screwdriver press on the pins while manipulating the forks back
and forth until the pin seats in the drum groove. Secure
pins in place with new cotter pins (4).
1CAUTION
The cotter pins must be inserted through the shifter forks
as shown in the inset of Figure 6-17 to prevent possible
damage to cotter pins (4).
NOTE
Figure 6-18. Shifter Fork Identification
2.
Lubricate the shaft bore in fork (2) with SPORT-TRANS
FLUID. Place 1st and 2nd gear shifter fork (2) in the fork
groove of countershaft 3rd gear. Be sure the flat side of
fork is facing away from the access door.
See Figure 6-19. Detent plate (2) and bowed snap ring (1) are
not installed at this time. These parts are installed during
transmission installation after the final shifter pawl adjustment
is made. See TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION AND
SHIFTER PAWL ADJUSTMENT on page 6-30.
3.
Lubricate the shaft bore in fork (3) with SPORT-TRANS
FLUID. Place 4th gear shifter fork (3) in the fork groove of
mainshaft 1st gear. Be sure the flat side of fork is facing
away from the access door.
6.
4.
See Figure 6-17. Position the shifter drum shaft so that
the neutral indicator switch activator pin (6) is upward.
The shaft is then in the neutral position. Insert the pin
end of drum shaft (7) through the hubs of shifter forks (1,
2 and 3) and through the bearing in access cover.
At the inside of the access door, place the shifter drum
plate (7) in the groove of the drum shaft. See inset Figure
6-19. Take care to correctly align the drum plates (7) and
(8) with the pin pressed in the drum plate. Take detent
screw (3) and insert it through detent arm (5), access
door, shift drum plate (7), drum reinforcement plate (8),
and washer (9). Thread nut (10) on detent screw and
tighten to 13-17 ft-lbs (18-23 Nm).
6-19
6
MAINSHAFT AND COUNTERSHAFT
DISASSEMBLY
3552
1.
Remove transmission assembly. See TRANSMISSION
CASE, REMOVAL on page 6-16. Remove shifter forks
and drum as described under SHIFTER FORKS AND
DRUM on page 6-18.
2.
See Figure 6-20. Clamp transmission assembly in vise,
with protective jaws, as shown, to work on disassembly.
Use protective jaws
when clamping in vise
Figure 6-20.
3559
NOTE
As the transmission runs, each part develops a certain wear
pattern and a kind of “set” with its mating parts. For this reason, it is important that each component be reinstalled in its
original location and facing its original direction.
3.
See Figure 6-21. As each component is removed, place
it on a clean surface in the exact order of removal.
Figure 6-21.
xlh0626
See Figure 6-22. Using RETAINING RING PLIERS (Part No.
J-5586) remove and discard retaining ring (5) next to countershaft 5th gear (12). Slide countershaft 5th (12), mainshaft 2nd
(22) and countershaft 2nd (11) off end of shafts. Remove split
bearing (7) that was under gear (11) and thrust washer (6) on
the countershaft.
6-20
Figure 6-22.
b0129x6x
14
15
16
17
18
19
37
13
30
20
21
20
22
5
5
5
12
6
11
7
6
23
7
5
24
5
25
6
7
26
6
10
27
5
9
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
Bearing
Door, access
Spacer, bevel
Gear, countershaft 4th
Ring, retaining (7)
Washer, thrust (6)
Bearing, split (4)
Gear, countershaft 1st
Countershaft
Gear, countershaft 3rd
Gear, countershaft 2nd
Gear, countershaft 5th
Bearing, closed (countershaft)
Sprocket, chain/belt
Seal, oil
Spacer (belt drive)
Ring, Quad
Ring, retaining
Bearing, ball
Bearing, needle
Gear, mainshaft 5th
Gear, mainshaft 2nd
Gear, mainshaft 3rd
36
5
6
8
7
28
6
4
29
35
3
2
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
Gear, mainshaft 1st
Gear, mainshaft 4th
Spacer
Mainshaft
Bearing
Ring, retaining
Seal
Retention collar
Torx screw
Ring, retaining
Nut, mainshaft
Washer, spring
Bushing
Bearing closed (shifter shaft)
1
33 31
34
32
Figure 6-23. Transmission Assembly
6-21
4.
See Figure 6-24. Remove retaining ring (5) next to countershaft 3rd gear (10). Slide countershaft 3rd gear (10)
off free end of shaft.
5.
At mainshaft, between mainshaft 1st gear (24) and mainshaft 3rd gear (23), expand retaining ring (5) and move
next to mainshaft 1st gear along with thrust washer (6).
Move mainshaft 3rd gear as far as possible toward mainshaft 1st gear (24). Expand retaining ring (5) at opposite
side of mainshaft 3rd gear and slide off end of shaft.
Remove mainshaft 3rd gear (23) and its split bearing (7).
6.
Slide thrust washer (6) off end of mainshaft. Expand
retaining ring (5), which is next to mainshaft 1st gear
(24), and slide off end of shaft.
xlh0628
Figure 6-24.
xlh0629
Press
Mandrel
7.
See Figure 6-25. Place COUNTERSHAFT GEAR SUPPORT PLATE (Part No. HD-37404) under countershaft
4th gear (4). Place assembly on press with suitable metal
blocks under the support plate. Place a socket or mandrel, smaller than inside diameter of bearing, and press
countershaft free of access cover. Slide mainshaft 1st
gear (24) off mainshaft.
Support
plate
Blocks
Figure 6-25.
xlh0630
8.
See Figure 6-26. Remove beveled spacer (3) and countershaft 4th gear (4).
9.
Expand retaining ring (5) located next to countershaft 1st
gear (8). Remove retaining ring (5) and thrust washer (6).
Slide countershaft 1st gear off end of shaft. Remove split
bearing (7).
10. Remove thrust washer (6). Expand remaining retaining
ring (5) and slide off shaft. This completes disassembly
of countershaft.
6-22
Figure 6-26.
11. See Figure 6-27. Place mainshaft and access door
assembly on arbor press with support under mainshaft
4th gear (25). Press on end of shaft until mainshaft is
free of access door bearing. Remove spacer (26),
mainshaft 4th gear (25) and split bearing (7).
xlh0631
Press
12. Remove thrust washer (6). Expand and remove remaining retaining ring (5).
Blocks
CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
1.
Clean all parts (except bearings) in cleaning solvent and
blow dry with compressed air.
2.
Check gear teeth for damage. If gears are pitted, scored,
rounded, cracked or chipped, they should be replaced.
3.
Inspect the engaging dogs on the gears. Replace the
gears if dogs are rounded, cracked, battered, chipped or
dimpled.
4.
Discard all retaining rings that were removed.
Figure 6-27.
xlh0632
ASSEMBLY
1CAUTION
During assembly, the split bearings (7) and the internal
bores of the gears must be lubricated with SPORTTRANS FLUID prior to assembly. Leaving these parts dry
could accelerate wear at start-up.
1.
Find a section of pipe that matches the inner race of
bearing (28). See Figure 6-28. Place the door assembly,
outside downward, on a press with the inner race of
bearing (28) resting on the section of pipe. Insert the
splined end of the shaft through the bearing and hold in a
vertical position. Press the shaft into the bearing until the
bearing bottoms against the shaft shoulder.
Press
Figure 6-28.
6-23
2.
See Figure 6-29. Place spacer (26) over mainshaft and
position next to bearing (28). Position split bearing (7)
into machined seat next to spacer (26). Locate mainshaft
4th gear (25), which can be identified by the two radial
grooves at one side. Slide gear (25) onto shaft with radial
grooves facing door. Position gear over bearing next to
spacer (26).
3.
Install thrust washer (6) and retaining ring (5) next to
gear (25). It will be necessary to push the retaining ring
into final position with a screwdriver.
4.
Slide mainshaft 1st gear (24) onto mainshaft with the
locking dogs facing gear (25).
5.
See Figure 6-30. Install retaining ring (5). Position retaining ring in the second ring groove from the end with internal threads. Install thrust washer (6) next to retaining
ring. Install split bearing (7) in seat next to washer (6).
xlh0633
2 grooves
Figure 6-29.
6.
Locate countershaft first gear (8). Gear (8) has a ring
groove at one side of the gear. Install gear (8) over split
bearing (7).
7.
Install thrust washer (6) and retaining ring (5) next to
gear (8).
8.
Locate countershaft 4th gear (4). This gear is splined and
has a single radial groove at one side. Position gear next
to retaining ring (5). Place beveled washer (3) over end
of shaft with beveled side away from gear (4).
xlh0634
1 groove
Figure 6-30.
xlh0635
Press
Mandrel
9.
See Figure 6-31. Stand countershaft assembly on press
with small end (end with threaded hole) upward. Place
access cover and mainshaft assembly on top of countershaft with bearing (1) in access cover over end of countershaft. Place a socket or section of pipe on inner race
of bearing (1). Hold assembly straight, making sure gear
teeth on countershaft are engaged with gear teeth on
mainshaft, and press bearing onto shaft until beveled
spacer bottoms against bearing.
NOTE
When correctly installed, countershaft 4th gear should have
zero end play.
6-24
Blocks
Figure 6-31.
10. See Figure 6-32. At mainshaft, install retaining ring (5)
and thrust washer (6). Install split bearing (7) in seat next
to thrust washer (6).
xlh0636
11. Install mainshaft 3rd gear (23) onto shaft over bearing
(7).
12. Install thrust washer (6) and retaining ring (5) next to
gear (23).
13. Install countershaft 3rd gear (10) onto shaft.
Figure 6-32.
xlh0637
14. See Figure 6-33. Install retaining ring (5) and thrust
washer (6). Install split bearing (7) into seat next to thrust
washer (6).
15. Install countershaft 2nd gear (11) over bearing (7).
16. Install mainshaft 2nd gear (22) onto shaft.
17. Install countershaft 5th gear (12).
Figure 6-33.
18. Expand retaining ring (5) and slide into groove next to
countershaft 5th gear (12).
3557
31
32
19. See Figure 6-34. At outside of access door, position
retention collar (31) next to end of countershaft with beveled side facing outward. Apply a few drops of LOCTITE
THREADLOCKER 242 (blue) to the threads of TORX
screw (32). Insert TORX screw (32) through retention
collar, and thread into end of shaft. Place transmission in
gear, and tighten TORX screw to 13-17 ft-lbs (18-23 Nm).
Figure 6-34.
6-25
MAIN DRIVE GEAR
REMOVAL
3563
1.
Remove transmission. See TRANSMISSION CASE,
REMOVAL on page 6-16.
2.
See Figure 6-35. From inside case tap out seal (3) at end
of mainshaft 5th gear (1). Discard seal (3).
3.
See Figure 6-36. Use MAIN DRIVE GEAR REMOVER
AND INSTALLER (Part No. HD-35316-A) with CROSS
PLATE (Part No. HD-35316-91). Take support bracket (1)
and insert pins, at one side, into holes which are now
exposed under access cover.
4.
See Figure 6-37. Insert bolt (2) through support bracket
(1) and 5th gear (3).
Cross Plate (Part
No. HD-35316-91)
1CAUTION
When removing the main drive gear, the gear is pressed
out against the resistance of the bearing inner race. Without any support at the inner race, the bearing is
destroyed. Whenever the main drive gear is removed the
main drive gear bearing will also have to be replaced.
5.
Figure 6-36. Support Bracket Mounting
At outside of case, place driver (4) and thrust washer (5)
over end of bolt (2). Install and tighten nut (6) until 5th
gear (3) is free.
xlh0639
For inner bearing
0.315-0.285 in.
(8.001-7.239 mm)
0.06-0.03 in.
(1.5-0.7 mm)
1.
2.
0.080 in.
(2.03 mm)
For outer bearing
For seal
Main drive gear
Needle bearing
3.
Seal
Figure 6-35. Main Drive Gear Assembly
6-26
xlh0641
1.
2.
3.
Support bracket
Bolt
5th gear
4.
5.
6.
Driver
Thrust washer
Nut
Figure 6-37. Removing Main Drive Gear
DISASSEMBLY
3554
Ram
Drive out needle bearings, from inside bore of main drive
gear. Do not reuse bearings after removal.
Main drive gear
ASSEMBLY
1.
Use INNER/OUTER MAIN DRIVE GEAR NEEDLE
BEARING INSTALLATION TOOL (Part No. HD-37842A).
See Figure 6-38. The tool is stamped 0.080 in. (2.032
mm) for the end of the tool to be used for driving the
bearing into the inner end and 0.315 in. (8.001 mm) for
the outer end bearing.
2.
Place main drive gear on a press. With the bearing installation tool, press in the outer bearing to a depth of 0.3150.285 in. (8.001-7.239 mm). Press in the inner bearing to
a depth of 0.080 in. (2.032 mm). The installation tool will
automatically bottom on the gear when the correct depth
is reached.
Needle bearing
installation tool
Figure 6-38. Needle Bearing Installation Tool
xlh0643
INSTALLATION
1.
Replace main drive gear bearing. See ACCESS DOOR
BEARINGS, INSTALLATION on page 6-28.
2.
Use MAIN DRIVE GEAR REMOVER AND INSTALLER
TOOL. See Figure 6-39. Take bolt (2) and place washer
(5) followed by main drive gear (4) over end of bolt. From
inside of case insert bolt and main drive gear through
inner race of ball bearing.
3.
Insert threaded end of bolt (2) through installer cup (3)
and thrust washer (1). Thread nut (6) onto end of bolt (2).
Tighten nut (6) until shoulder on gear (4) bottoms against
inner race of bearing.
1.
2.
3.
Thrust washer
Bolt
Installer cup
4.
5.
6.
5th gear
Washer
Nut
Figure 6-39. Main Drive Gear Installation
4.
See Figure 6-35. Tap in new seal (3) at threaded end of
5th gear.
6-27
ACCESS DOOR BEARINGS
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
Mainshaft and Countershaft Bearings
Mainshaft and Countershaft Bearings
1.
2.
3.
Remove transmission assembly. See TRANSMISSION
CASE, REMOVAL on page 6-16. Remove shifter forks
and drum as described under SHIFTER FORKS AND
DRUM on page 6-18. Remove countershaft and mainshaft. See MAINSHAFT AND COUNTERSHAFT starting
on page 6-20.
Inspect the mainshaft and countershaft ball bearings for
pitting, scoring, discoloration or other damage.
See Figure 6-40. If bearing replacement is required,
remove retaining rings (1, 2). Press out bearings (3, 4)
from the inside of the door.
1.
Lay access door on press with inside surface of door
downward.
2.
Lay bearing squarely over bore with printed side of bearing upward. Place section of pipe or tubing (slightly
smaller than outside diameter of bearing) against outer
race. Press bearing into bore until bearing bottoms
against shoulder.
3.
Install new retaining ring with beveled side facing away
from bearing.
Shift Drum Bushing
1.
Lay access door on press with outside surface of door
downward.
2.
See Figure 6-41. Lay bushing squarely over bore. Locate
socket or pipe that is slightly larger than diameter of
bushing. Place socket or pipe on bushing and press into
bore until bushing is flush with or 0.020 in. (0.51 mm)
below inside surface. If using a pressing tool larger than
diameter of bushing, the pressing tool will bottom against
door when bushing is flush with top surface.
Shift Drum Bushing
1.
Inspect the shifter drum bushing for pitting, scoring, discoloration or excessive wear. If bushing requires replacement press bushing out of door from either side.
b0181x6x
b0182x6x
1
Assemble bushing flush
to 0.020 in. (0.51 mm)
recess from this surface
3
2
4
1.
2.
Retaining ring
Retaining ring
3.
4.
Bearing, mainshaft
Bearing, countershaft
Figure 6-40. Ball Bearing Assembly
6-28
Shift drum bushing
Figure 6-41. Shift Drum Bushing Assembly
RIGHT TRANSMISSION CASE BEARINGS
REMOVAL
1.
Remove transmission assembly. See TRANSMISSION
CASE, REMOVAL on page 6-16. Remove main drive 5th
gear. See MAIN DRIVE GEAR on page 6-26.
2.
At outside of case remove seal next to 5th gear bearing
retainer. Remove retaining ring.
3.
From inside transmission case drive bearings (5th gear,
countershaft or shifter shaft) out of bores. Carefully tap
bearings free by working around bearing diameter to
keep bearing from skewing.
3563
Cross Plate (Part
No. HD-35316-91)
INSTALLATION
Mainshaft 5th Gear Ball Bearing
1.
Locate MAIN DRIVE GEAR REMOVER AND
INSTALLER (Part No. HD-35316-A). See Figure 6-42.
Place support bracket pins in appropriate holes in transmission case.
2.
See Figure 6-43. Insert bolt (2) through support bracket
(1), new bearing (3), driver (4) and thrust bearing (5).
Thread nut (6) on end of bolt. Tighten nut carefully until
bearing is started in bore squarely. Tighten nut (6) until
bearing is seated against shoulder in bore.
3.
At outside of case install beveled retaining ring in groove
inside bearing bore with beveled side facing outside of
case.
4.
Lubricate bearing with SPORT-TRANS FLUID.
Figure 6-42. Cross Plate Mounting
xlh0647
Countershaft Needle Bearing
1.
Find a suitable bearing driver 1-1/4 in. (31.75 mm) in
diameter.
2.
From the outside of the case place the needle bearing
open end first next to the bearing bore. Hold the driver
squarely against the closed end of the bearing and tap
the bearing into place. The bearing is properly positioned
when it is driven inward flush or 0.030 in. (0.76 mm)
below the outside surface of the case.
3.
Lubricate bearing with SPORT-TRANS FLUID.
Shift Drum Needle Bearing
1.
Find a suitable bearing driver 13/16 in. (20.64 mm) in
diameter.
2.
From the outside of the case place the needle bearing,
open end first, next to the bearing bore. Hold the driver
squarely against the closed end of the bearing and tap
the bearing into place. The bearing is properly positioned
when driven inward flush or 0.030 in. (0.76 mm) below
the outside surface.
3.
Lubricate bearing with SPORT-TRANS FLUID.
1.
2.
3.
Support bracket
Bolt
Bearing
4.
5.
6.
Driver
Thrust bearing
Nut
Figure 6-43. Installing Mainshaft Ball Bearing
6-29
TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION AND
SHIFTER PAWL ADJUSTMENT
Verify that all parts have been properly installed, as described
earlier in this section under RIGHT TRANSMISSION CASE
BEARINGS, MAIN DRIVE GEAR, MAINSHAFT AND COUNTERSHAFT, and SHIFTER FORKS AND DRUM.
1.
Carefully insert transmission into case opening. Position
the assembly so that the mainshaft enters fifth gear, and
so that the countershaft and drum shifter shaft enter their
respective bearings.
2.
See Figure 6-15. Apply a few drops of LOCTITE
THREADLOCKER 242 (blue) to the threads of the five
access door mounting bolts (7). Insert the bolts with
washers (8) through holes in access door, and thread
into tapped holes in right transmission case. Tighten
bolts to 13-17 ft-lbs (18-23 Nm).
3.
Lift pawl (5) over drum pins, and place shifter shaft
assembly (6) on studs at transmission case. Loosely
install a washer (11) and locknut (3) on each stud.
4.
Attach the loop of spring (1) over and into groove in post (2).
5.
Place detent plate (9) over drum pins. Rotate plate until
blind holes in plate align with pins in end of drum shaft.
Install new retaining ring (10) using SHIFT DRUM
RETAINING RING INSTALLER (Part No. HD-39151).
Verify that retaining ring is fully engaged with drum
groove.
6.
See Figure 6-44. Place transmission in third gear. Place
a No. 32 drill bit (0.116 in. dia.) through hole in detent
plate (3), and between pawl (2) and drive pin at end of
shifter drum shaft. Push down top of crank (4) to remove
all clearance between pawl and drill bit; this will correctly
align pawl to shift drum pins (do not push down with too
great a force, as this might cause the shifter drum to
rotate). With bit in place, tighten shifter shaft assembly
bottom nut (1) first to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm).
Then, tighten shifter shaft assembly top nut (1) to the
same torque. Remove drill bit.
7.
8.
9.
See Figure 6-23. Place new quad ring (17) over
threaded end of fifth gear (21), and position next to the
gear taper. Install spacer (16) over threaded end of fifth
gear with chamfered end toward quad ring. Slide spacer
up against bearing (19).
Coat lips of seal (15) with SPORT-TRANS FLUID. Position seal over spacer (16) with lips of seal toward case.
Gently tap seal into bore of case until the outside of seal
is flush with outer edge of bore. It is acceptable to recess
seal to about 0.030 in. (0.76 mm) below outer edge of
bore; seal recession will be limited by seal bottoming
against retaining ring (18).
See Figure 6-45. Install transmission sprocket (2) with
secondary drive belt onto main drive gear shaft (1).
10. Place transmission in neutral. Apply a few drops of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 262 (red) to the left-hand
threads of transmission sprocket nut (3). Position nut
with washer-faced side facing transmission sprocket.
6-30
b0135x6x
1
2
4
No. 32 drill bit (0.116 in. dia.)
2
3
5
Drill bit
1.
2.
3.
Nut
Pawl
Detent plate
4.
5.
Crank
Shifter drum pin
Figure 6-44. Shifter Shaft Assembly Alignment
11. Increase belt deflection by loosing rear axle and moving
rear wheel forward. Turn the nut counterclockwise to
install it onto main drive gear shaft.
a.
Use SPROCKET HOLDING TOOL (Part No. HD41321) and MAINSHAFT LOCKNUT WRENCH
(Part No. HD-94660-37B) and a torque wrench.
Tighten nut to 50 ft-lbs (68 Nm) INITIAL torque,
ONLY.
b.
See Figure 6-46. Scribe a line on the transmission
sprocket nut and continue the line on the transmission sprocket as shown.
c.
Tighten the transmission sprocket nut an additional
30°-40°.
d.
See Figure 6-45. Install lockplate (4) over nut (3) so
that two of lockplate’s four drilled holes (diagonally
opposite) align with sprocket’s (2) two tapped holes.
NOTE
b0249x6x
1
2
The lockplate has four screw holes and can be turned to
either side, so you should be able to find a position without
having to additionally tighten the nut. If you cannot align the
screw holes properly, the nut may be additionally TIGHTENED until the screw holes line up, but do not exceed 45° as
specified above. Never LOOSEN nut to align the screw holes.
e.
3
See Figure 6-46. If lockplate will not align with holes,
tighten nut to 45° maximum.
1CAUTION
Maximum allowable tightening of sprocket nut is 45° of
counterclockwise rotation, after initially tightening to 50 ftlbs. Do not loosen sprocket nut while attempting to align
the screw holes. If you cannot align lockplate and sprocket
screw holes, nut may be additionally tightened 45° as
specified above. Tightening too much or too little may
cause the nut to come loose during vehicle operation.
5
1.
2.
3.
Main drive gear shaft
Transmission sprocket
Transmission sprocket
nut (left hand threads)
12. If you cannot align lockplate and sprocket screw holes,
nut may be additionally tightened until screw holes align.
Lockplate
Socket head
screw (2)
Figure 6-45. Transmission Sprocket
i00077-
13. Install two socket head screws (5) through aligned holes
of lockplate and into tapped holes of sprocket. Tighten
screws to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm).
4.
5.
4
Transmission
sprocket nut
Transmission
sprocket
NOTE
The original equipment socket head screws (5) have threadlocking compound applied to them. Since this compound
remains effective for about three removal/installation cycles,
the original screws may be reused up to three times. After the
third removal/installation cycle, replace both screws with new
screws identical to the original.
45°
30°
14. Install the remaining removed components in the reverse
order of the removal procedures. See the procedures
listed in the respective component sections.
Line scribed on nut and sprocket
15. Adjust drive belt tension. See REAR BELT DEFLECTION
in Section 1.
Figure 6-46. Aligning Transmission Sprocket
16. Fill transmission to proper level with fresh lubricant. See
CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION FLUID in Section 1.
6-31
7
SPECIFICATIONS
BATTERY
IGNITION TIMING SPARK OCCURRENCE
Size
12 VDC
Type
Sealed
SPARK PLUGS
Size
12 mm
Style
6R12
Gap
0.038-0.045 in.
0.96-1.14 mm
11-18 ft-lbs
14.9-24.4 Nm
Torque value
V.O.E.S.
Idle
Connected
Disconnected
World models
950-1050 RPM
20˚ BTDC
Approximately
7.5˚ BTDC
California models
1150-1250 RPM
20˚ BTDC
Approximately
7.5˚ BTDC
IGNITION COIL RESISTANCE
Primary winding
2.5-3.1 Ohms
Secondary winding
10,000-12,500 Ohms
ALTERNATOR
AC voltage output
19-26 VAC per 1000 engine RPM
Stator coil resistance
0.2-0.4 Ohms
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
REGULATOR
AMPERES
Main circuit breaker
30
Ignition fuse
15
Light fuse
15
Voltage output @ 75°F
13.8-15 VDC
Accessory fuse
15
Amperes @ 3600 RPM
22 Amps
Instrument fuse
15
BULB CHART
Number Of
Bulbs Required
Specifications
High/low replaceable bulb
1
60 W/55 W
Position lamp
1
14 W
Tail/stop lamp
1
5 W/21 W
Turn signal lamp-front and rear, 1 bulb per lamp
4
10 W
License plate lamp
1
5W
High beam indicator
1
0.07 Amps/2 C.P.
Turn signal indicator
2
0.07 Amps/2 C.P.
Oil pressure indicator
1
0.07 Amps/4 C.P.
Neutral indicator
1
0.07 Amps/4 C.P.
Speedometer
2
0.22 Amps/2 C.P.
Tachometer
1
0.22 Amps/2 C.P.
Lamp Description (All Lamps 12 V)
Headlamp
Marker lamps
Indicator lamps on
instrument support
Instruments
7-1
ITEM
TORQUE
NOTES
Headlamp housing screws
5-7 ft-lbs
6.8-9.5 Nm
Ignition coil mounting screws
2-6 ft-lbs
2.7-8 Nm
page 7-17
12-20 in-lbs
1.4-2.3 Nm
page 7-15
3-5 ft-lbs
4.0-6.8 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue), page 7-42
90-110 in-lbs
10.2-10.4 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue), page 7-30
Spark plugs
11-18 ft-lbs
14.9-24.4 Nm
page 7-1
Stator mounting screws
30-40 in-lbs
3.4-3.5 Nm
T-27 Torx with retaining compound, replace after
removal, page 7-30
Switchgear housing screws,
left side
25-33 in-lbs
2.8-3.7 Nm
metric, page 7-40
Switchgear housing screws,
right side
12-17 in-lbs
1.4-1.9 Nm
metric, page 7-39
Timer plate studs
12-20 in-lbs
1.4-2.3 Nm
page 7-15
Trigger rotor bolt
75-80 in-lbs
8.5-9.0 Nm
LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue), page 7-15
Inner cover screws
Neutral indicator switch
Rotor mounting bolts
7-2
metric, page 7-34, page 7-37
IGNITION SYSTEM
GENERAL
Ignition Module
The vehicle uses a breakerless inductive-discharge ignition
system. The system has both a primary and secondary circuit. The primary circuit consists of the battery, ignition switch,
primary coil winding, computerized ignition timer and associated wiring. The secondary circuit consists of the secondary
coil, spark plugs and associated wiring. See Figure 7-1.
The ignition module is mounted to the vehicle frame under a
protective cover; it is located to the right of the battery. The
ignition module has two functions. First, it computes the spark
advance for proper ignition timing. Second, it opens and
closes the low-voltage circuits between the battery and ignition coil to produce high-voltage discharge to the spark plugs.
The computerized ignition system contains three assemblies.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Pop rivet (2)
Timer cover
Screw (2)
Inner cover
Ignition gasket
Timer plate stud (2)
Bolt
Sensor assembly
Trigger rotor
Seal
Gearcase cover
Spark plug (2)
Ignition coil
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
Front spark plug cable
Rear spark plug cable
V.O.E.S. connector [P7]
V.O.E.S.
Cable strap
Terminal pin
Timer connector [P16]
Secondary lock
Ignition module connector [P10]
Ignition module
Washer (2)
Screw (2)
17
22
16
23
14
15
18
24
19
25
21
13
12
10
20
9
8
11
3
7
6
1
5
4
b0223x7x
2
Figure 7-1. Ignition System Components
7-3
Vacuum-Operated Electric Switch
The vacuum-operated electric switch (V.O.E.S.) is attached to
the carburetor. The V.O.E.S. senses intake passage vacuum
through a carburetor hose connection. The switch is open
during acceleration and high engine load conditions (low vacuum) and is closed during deceleration and low engine load
conditions (high vacuum). The ignition module is programmed
with two spark advance curves to meet varying engine loads.
The high-vacuum curve, selected for maximum spark
advance under normal light-load cruising conditions, provides
improved fuel economy and performance. The low-vacuum
curve (retarded spark) minimizes spark knock while maintaining performance under high-load conditions (acceleration and
highway driving).
The ignition module selects the proper curve when it receives
an open or closed electrical signal from the V.O.E.S. This system ensures correct timing to suit starting and high-speed
requirements.
A single ignition coil fires both spark plugs simultaneously.
The spark plug in the front cylinder fires at the end of that cylinder’s compression stroke, thereby igniting the air/fuel mixture. At the same instant, the spark in the rear cylinder fires
ineffectually during the end of that cylinder’s exhaust stroke.
During the next engine revolution, the simultaneous firing of
the spark plugs will occur during the middle of the front cylinder’s exhaust stroke and at the end of the rear cylinder’s compression stroke (thereby igniting the air/fuel mixture in the
rear cylinder).
Rotor and Sensor Plate
The rotor and sensor plate are located in the gearcase cover
on the right side of the motorcycle. The rotor is mounted on
the camshaft and operates at one-half crankshaft speed. As
the rotor turns, slots in its outside diameter break the magnetic field of a Hall-effect device mounted on the sensor plate.
The output of the Hall-effect device is a logic-type signal that
corresponds to the timing information from the spinning rotor.
This technique gives accurate timing information down to “0”
speed.
The ignition system produces a spark near top dead center
(TDC) for starting. At RPM’s and loads above this, the system
produces a spark 5˚-40˚ before TDC. The whole timing program can be shifted by mechanical rotation of the sensor
plate. See IGNITION TIMING in Section 1.
The ignition module contains all the solid-state components
used in the ignition system. The dwell time for the ignition coil
is also calculated by the microprocessor and is dependent
upon engine speed. The programmed dwell is an added feature to keep battery drain to a minimum and to adequately
charge the coil at all speeds. The ignition module has added
protection against transient voltages, continuous reverse voltage protection and damage due to jump starts. The system
will operate down to 5.7 VDC. The ignition module is fully
enclosed to protect it from vibration, dust, water and oil. The
unit is not repairable–it must be replaced if it fails.
See the wiring diagrams at the end of this section for additional information on ignition system circuits.
7-4
TROUBLESHOOTING
Perform the following tests if the engine will not start, or if
hard starting or missing indicates a faulty operating ignition
system.
Check for Ignition Spark
1.
Disconnect spark plug cables from spark plugs. Check
condition of plugs and cables. Clean or replace as necessary.
2.
Insert a conductive adapter into spark plug cable end
and establish a 3/16 in. (4.8 mm) gap between adapter
and cylinder head. Turn on ignition and “engine stop”
switches. With transmission in neutral, press “engine
start” button. Check for a spark across plug electrode
gap. If a spark is produced, problem is not in electronic
system or coil – check carburetion, enrichener and spark
plugs. If no spark is produced, check battery voltage and
battery connection condition. Battery voltage must be 1113 VDC. Charge battery if voltage is low.
3.
Verify that the ground strap from swingarm mount block
to below the circuit breakers is in good condition. If there
is still no spark, then perform the tests under NO IGNITION SPARK below.
No Ignition Spark
See Figure 7-2. To conduct the following tests, it will be necessary to assemble a set of jumper wires. Cut two wires of
ample length to reach from a good ground connection to the
negative terminal of the coil primary. If a suitable capacitor is
not available, use a condenser (such as the type used in earlier breaker point ignition systems). When conducting Steps 3
and 5 of the following spark tests, connect a spare spark plug
to one of the plug wires and lay the spark plug on the engine
cylinder head. During the testing procedures, check for spark
across the spark plug electrodes.
xlhinsert1
0.33 MFD capacitor
16 ga. wire
Figure 7-2. Test Jumper
b0241x7x
ELECTRONIC IGNITION
VACUUM SWITCH
TIMER AND PICKUP
BK
BK
TN
NEUTRAL
2 1
BK
V/W
GN/W
PK
R/W
BK/W
W/BK
BK
V/W
P7
R/W
BK/W
TN
GN/W
P10
P1
BE
W/R
GN/BK
Y/O
GY
W/BK
W/BK
BK/R
1
2
3
4
BK
V/W
GN/W
PK
R/W
BK/W
W/BK
IGN POWER
IGN MODULE
FROM (2)
TO STARTER
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
A B C
P16
NEUTRAL
SWITCH
P3
TN
12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
S8
BK
P14
TN/W
2 1
BK W
SIDE STAND
SWITCH
S2
S1
TN
S13
S11
MAIN CHASSIS GROUND
S12
TN
TN/GN
S10
TN/GN
BK
R
TN/GN
MASTER
30A CIRCUIT
BREAKER
S7
TN/GN
S15
R
GN
TN/W
GY
P13
PK
TN/W
P8
VIEW FROM FUSE
INSERTION SIDE
P12
W/BK
COIL
TN/GN
BK/R
R
CLUTCH SWITCH
A
B
C
D
TN/GN
BK
R/B K
1
2
R/BK
S14
P5
FROM IGN RLY R/BE
TO GROUND
BK
GN
BK
BK
IGNITION
GY/O
R/BK
15A
LT.BE
COLOR CODE:
BE
BLUE
GY
GRAY
TN
TAN
BK
BLACK
O
ORANGE
V
VIOLET
BN
GN
BROWN
GREEN
PK
R
PINK
RED
R/BK
LIGHT BLUE
W
Y
GY/O
REAR PLUG
GY/O
GY/O
NO CONNECTION
CONNECTION
GY/O
WHITE
YELLOW
85
87
TN/W
TN/W
CABLE COLOR
XX
STRIPE COLOR
PIN CONNECTOR
SOCKET CONNECTOR
LIGHTS
R/BK
86
BK/R
15A
30
ACCESSORIES
85
87
R/BK
GY
87A
XX
R/BK
15A
FRONT PLUG
86
DIODE
INSTRUMENTS
TN/GN
GN
KEY SWITCH
30
87A
15A
R/BK
IGN
IGNITION RELAY
FUSE BLOCK
P9
STARTER RELAY
R/GY
R
OFF
LOCK
BATTERY
1996 BUELL S1-LIGHTNING WIRING DIAGRAM
4/18/96
7-5
Figure 7-3. Ignition System Circuit
Continuous or No Spark at Plug
STEP 1
1.
Ignition switch on.
2.
Multimeter red wire to white wire terminal,
black wire to ground.
3.
Meter should register 12 VDC ± 1.0 volt. If
meter is correct, proceed to STEP 2.
1.
STEP 2
Remove pink (module) wire from coil
terminal.
2.
Ignition switch on.
3.
Multimeter red wire alternately to white
wire terminal and to pink wire terminal.
4.
Meter should register 12 VDC at both
terminals. If meter is correct, proceed
to STEP 3.
1.
STEP 3
Pink (module) wire disconnected.
2.
Ignition switch on.
3.
Jumper wire – connect capacitor wire to
pink wire terminal.
4.
Connect both wires to common ground.
5.
Momentarily touch ground wire to pink wire
terminal. When you remove the wire, there
should be a spark at plug. If spark occurs,
proceed to STEP 4.
STEP 4
1.
Reconnect pink wire to coil.
2.
Ignition switch on.
b0077x7x
IF NO POWER
Check circuit breaker, ignition relay,
loose wires, switches.
To tach
b0078x7x
IF NO POWER
Check coil resistance. See COIL
later in this section.
If resistance is OK check spark.
See STEP 3.
b0079x7x
IF NO SPARK
Replace coil.
Jumper
x0043ax7x
B
A
IF NO POWER
3.
Disconnect sensor.
C
4.
7-6
Connector from module–multimeter red
wire to red wire socket and multimeter
black wire to black/white pin. Should register 12 VDC ± 0.5 volts. If meter is correct,
proceed to STEP 5.
A. Green
B. Black/white pin
C. Red from module
Check module ground and power
wire to module for loose connections. See Resistance Test which
follows. Check spark, STEP 5.
STEP 5
1.
Ignition on.
2.
Momentarily place screwdriver across
black/white and green connector pins.
Since the ignition module ignores the first
four sensor inputs, repeat this step six to
ten times.
3.
Strong evidence of spark at spark plug
when screwdriver is removed. If there is a
spark, sensor is suspect. Install known,
good sensor and test again.
b0044a7x
IF NO SPARK
A
B
Check module resistance. See
IGNITION RESISTANCE TESTIGNITION MODULE. Replace module if resistance is bad.
C
A. Red from module
B. Green
C. Black/white pin
Intermittent Ignition Problem–Vibration
1.
Check battery connections. Disconnect
module ground (scrape paint, add star
washer).
2.
Disconnect white wire at coil terminal
(not module feed).
3.
Connect 16 ga. jumper wire from battery
positive terminal to white wire.
4.
Operate vehicle to see if problem is
eliminated.
b0224x7x
PROBLEM NOT ELIMINATED
Problem is vibration, possibly loose
connections at safety switches or
defective ignition relay in starter
circuit.
NOTE
Vehicle no longer has an engine stop switch.
Engine must be stopped by removing jumper
wire.
Intermittent Ignition Problem–Temperature
1.
Remove outer timing cover.
2.
Remove inner timing cover and gasket.
3.
Start engine.
4.
Spray sensor plate with refrigerant (obtainable at electronic supply houses) to see if
engine kills.
5.
With engine hot, at operating temperature
and cover off, apply heat (blow dryer) to
nose of sensor and see if engine kills.
6.
Apply heat (blow dryer) to module and see if
engine kills.
d0018x8x
Sensor
IF ENGINE KILLS
Problem is temperature sensitive
sensor or module. Replace sensor
or module.
7-7
Ignition Resistance Test-Ignition Module
1CAUTION
If a resistance test is performed on a “live” circuit, the multimeter will be damaged. Turn off ignition and disconnect
the battery before doing a resistance test.
TEST
Check for
grounds
METER
SETTING
PROBE 1
PROBE 2
RX1
To black/white
wire in harness
To chassis
ground
METER READING AT MODULE
0-1 Ohm
Good
More than
1 Ohm
Check harness for opens. See next
page. If harness checks OK, replace
module.
2
b0080b3x
1
3
5
A
B
Chassis
ground
C
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
7-8
Ignition sensor plate
Ignition module
Ignition coil
Spark plug (2)
Vacuum-operated electric switch (V.O.E.S.)
V
W
4
4
Ignition Resistance Test-Ignition Module Harness
TEST CONDITIONS: Engine stop switch on right handlebar must be in OFF position and 8-place ignition module
connector [P10] and 3-place sensor connector [P16] must be disconnected for these tests. Shake or wiggle the
harness to detect any breaks in the wiring.
TEST
METER
SETTING
PROBE 1
PROBE 2
Check for
grounds
RX1
To pin 8 on
connector [P10]
To chassis
ground
Check for
grounds
RX1
All pins except
pin 8 on
connector [P10]
To chassis
ground
Continuity
RX1
All pins except
pin 8 on
connector [P10]
Opposite end of
each of the 6
leads
METER READING AT HARNESS
0-1 Ohm
Good.
More than
1 Ohm
Repair/clean ground connection.
Infinity
Good.
Any
resistance
Locate and repair short to ground.
0-1 Ohm
Good.
More than
1 Ohm
Repair broken wire or loose/dirty
connection
IGNITION MODULE CONNECTOR [P10]
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
PIN NO.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
COLOR CODE
W
BK/W
R
PK
GN
V/W
BK
open
Ignition sensor plate
Ignition module
Ignition coil
Spark plug
Vacuum-operated electric
switch (V.O.E.S.)
8-pin black ignition
module sensor [P10]
2
4
3
2
1
5
6
7
8
Chassis
ground
3-pin black ignition
sensor [P16]
Unplug
A
B
1
C
3
A. Red
B. Green
C. Black
4
5
f1143b8x
4
7-9
VACUUM-OPERATED ELECTRIC SWITCH (V.O.E.S)
ADJUSTMENT/TESTING
See VACUUM-OPERATED ELECTRIC SWITCH (V.O.E.S) in
Section 1.
b0225x7x
ELECTRONIC
IGNITION MODULE
BK
BK
P7
2 1
BK
V/W
GN/W
PK
R/W
BK/W
W/BK
BK
V/W
REMOVAL
Remove seat and fuel tank. See FUEL TANK, REMOVAL
in Section 4.
2.
See Figure 7-4. Disconnect V.O.E.S. connector [P7] from
main wiring harness.
3.
Remove V.O.E.S. from carburetor.
P10
1.
See Figure 7-4. Place a new V.O.E.S. on carburetor.
2.
Attach V.O.E.S. connector [P7] to main wiring harness.
BK/W
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
[P7] WIRE
INSTALLATION
R/W
GN/W
BK
V/W
GN/W
PK
R/W
BK/W
W/BK
1.
VACUUM
SWITCH
TIMER
AND PICKUP
A B C
P16
TERMINATION
1
Ignition module
2
Splice number one
Figure 7-4. V.O.E.S. Connector [P7]
1WARNING
After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be
sure it is locked in position. If seat is loose, it could shift
during vehicle operation and startle the rider, causing
loss of control and personal injury.
3.
Install fuel tank and seat. See FUEL TANK, INSTALLATION in Section 4.
7-10
IGNITION/HEADLAMP SWITCH
GENERAL
5755
2
1
1WARNING
3
DO NOT modify the ignition/headlamp switch wiring to
circumvent the automatic-on headlamp feature. Visibility
is a major concern for motorcyclists. Failure to have
proper headlamp operation could lead to personal injury.
4
See Figure 7-5. The three-position combination ignition/headlamp switch is not repairable. Replace the unit if it fails.
5
Switch positions are explained in Table 7-1.
1CAUTION
When turning off the ignition, verify that the key is
removed in the LOCK position or that the lights are not
left on. If the rider stops the engine and inadvertently
removes the key in the OFF position, the battery will be
drained of its charge if the vehicle is left standing too
long.
1.
2.
3.
LOCK position
OFF position
IGNITION position
4.
5.
Switch face nut
Ignition switch
bracket
Figure 7-5. Ignition/Headlamp Switch
NOTE
The key locks the ignition system and is removable in both the
LOCK and OFF positions. The OFF position is located
between the LOCK and IGNITION positions and allows the
rider to remove the key while leaving the lights on. When the
key is placed in the OFF position, several indicator markers
are or can be activated. See Table 7-2.
REMOVAL
1.
Remove seat and fuel tank. See FUEL TANK, REMOVAL
in Section 4.
Table 7-1. Ignition Positions
LABEL
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when loosening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
2.
Disconnect battery cables, negative cable first.
3.
Cut cable strap securing main wiring harness to frame.
4.
See Figure 7-6. Disconnect ignition connector [P8] from
main wiring harness.
5.
See Figure 7-5. Remove ignition switch face nut.
6.
Remove ignition switch.
IGN.
LAMPS
REMOVE
KEY
LOCK
locked
off
off
yes
OFF
markers
off
yes
IGN
ignition
on
See note &
Table 7-2.
1WARNING
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding. Always disconnect the negative cable first. If
the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
NAME
no
Table 7-2. Indicator Markers
ITEM
OFF
IGN
Headlamp position marker
on
on
Headlamp high/low beam
off
on
License plate lamp
on
on
Speedometer illumination lamp
on
on
Tachometer illumination lamp
off
on
Stop lamp
can be activated
Front and rear turn signals
can be activated
Horn
can be activated
7-11
1.
Insert ignition switch into hole of switch bracket. The
word “TOP” stamped on the switch body should face
upward toward the lettering on the switch position decal.
Loosely install face nut.
2.
See Figure 7-6. Attach ignition switch connector [P8] to
main wiring harness.
3.
Tighten face nut to secure switch within cover.
b0226x7x
R
R/GY
R/BK
INSTALLATION
R/BK
R/GY
R
R/GY
R/B K
4.
A
B
C
D
IGN
P8
Secure main wiring harness to frame with a new cable
strap.
OFF
R
LOCK
1WARNING
Always connect the positive battery cable first. If the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable
installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
KEY SWITCH
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when tightening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
5.
Install battery cables, positive cable first.
6.
Install fuel tank and seat. See FUEL TANK, INSTALLATION in Section 4.
1WARNING
Check for proper headlamp operation before riding
motorcycle. Visibility is a major concern for motorcyclists. Failure to have proper headlamp operation could
lead to personal injury.
7.
7-12
Check ignition/headlamp switch for proper operation.
[P8] WIRE
TERMINATION
A
Master circuit breaker
B
Accessories fuse in fuse block
C
Ignition fuse in fuse block
D
Empty
Figure 7-6. Ignition Switch Connector [P8]
IGNITION MODULE
GENERAL
5682
Ignition module
See Figure 7-7. The ignition module is located on a plate
which is a portion of the frame. The ignition module is not
repairable. Replace the unit if it fails.
See IGNITION SYSTEM on page 7-3 for information on the
function and testing of the ignition module.
REMOVAL
Remove seat and tail section. See TAIL SECTION,
REMOVAL in Section 2.
2.
Disconnect battery cables, negative cable first.
3.
Cut cable strap which secures main wire harness to side
frame member.
4.
See Figure 7-8. Disconnect ignition module connector
[P10] from main wiring harness.
5.
b0225x7x
ELECTRONIC
IGNITION MODULE
VACUUM
SWITCH
TIMER
AND PICKUP
BK
BK
P7
2 1
BK
V/W
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when loosening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
Figure 7-7. Ignition Module
BK
V/W
GN/W
PK
R/W
BK/W
W/BK
1WARNING
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding. Always disconnect the negative cable first. If
the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
R/W
BK/W
GN/W
P10
See Figure 7-7. Remove screws and washers to detach
module from frame.
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
BK
V/W
GN/W
PK
R/W
BK/W
W/BK
1.
A B C
P16
INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 7-7. Fasten module to frame using screws
and washers.
2.
See Figure 7-8. Attach ignition module connector [P10]
to main wiring harness.
[P10] WIRE
Secure main wiring harness to frame member with a
new cable strap.
1
Splice number eight
2
Timer and pickup
3
Timer and pickup
4
Coil
5
Timer and pickup
6
Vacuum-operated switch
7
Splice number two
8
Empty
3.
1WARNING
Always connect the positive battery cable first. If the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable
installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury and/or property damage.
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when tightening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
4.
Install battery cables, positive cable first.
1WARNING
After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be
sure it is locked in position. If seat is loose, it could shift
during vehicle operation and startle the rider, causing
loss of control and personal injury.
5.
Install tail section and seat. See TAIL SECTION, INSTALLATION in Section 2.
6.
Test engine for proper ignition system operation.
TERMINATION
Figure 7-8. Ignition Module Connector [P10]
7-13
IGNITION SENSOR PLATE AND ROTOR
GENERAL
REMOVAL
See Figure 7-9. The ignition sensor plate assembly (8) and
trigger rotor (9) are located in the gearcase cover (11) on the
right side of the vehicle. The rotor is mounted on the camshaft
and operates at one-half crankshaft speed. The sensor plate
wiring is connected to the ignition module (23) wiring harness. See IGNITION SYSTEM on page 7-3 for information on
the function, testing and adjustment of the ignition sensor
plate and trigger rotor assembly.
1WARNING
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding. Always disconnect the negative cable first. If
the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when loosening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
1.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Pop rivet (2)
Timer cover
Screw (2)
Inner cover
Ignition gasket
Timer plate stud (2)
Bolt
Sensor assembly
Trigger rotor
Seal
Gearcase cover
Spark plug (2)
Ignition coil
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
Disconnect battery cables, negative cable first.
Front spark plug cable
Rear spark plug cable
V.O.E.S. connector [P7]
V.O.E.S.
Cable strap
Terminal pin
Timer connector [P16]
Secondary lock
Ignition module connector [P10]
Ignition module
Washer (2)
Screw (2)
17
22
16
23
14
15
18
24
19
25
21
13
12
10
20
9
8
11
3
7
6
1
5
4
b0223x7x
2
Figure 7-9. Ignition Components
7-14
2.
3.
Remove sprocket cover. See SPROCKET COVER in
Section 2.
5630
Cut cable straps holding sensor plate wiring at the following locations:
a.
Top of starter.
b.
Edge of gearcase cover.
c.
Oil line.
4.
See Figure 7-9. Disconnect sensor plate (8) wiring at
connector (20) [P16] located below the starter motor.
5.
Note position of each sensor plate wiring terminal in plug
end of connector (20).
6.
Remove terminals. See DEUTSCH ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS on page 7-46.
7.
Drill off heads of outer timer cover pop rivets (1) using a
3/8 in. (9.525 mm) drill bit. Tap remaining rivet shafts
inboard through holes in timer cover (2) and inner cover
(4). Remove timer cover.
8.
Remove inner cover screws (3), inner cover (4) and ignition gasket (5). Carefully remove any remaining pieces of
rivets from gearcase cover timer bore.
9.
See Figure 7-10. To obtain approximate ignition timing
during installation, mark position of timer plate studs on
sensor plate.
Timer plate stud
Sensor plate wiring
Sensor plate
Timer plate stud
Figure 7-10. Marking Ignition Timing
5.
Install sensor plate wiring terminals into correct positions
in plug end of connector (20) [P16]. Red, green and black
wires of plug end (from sensor plate) must match same
color wires in receptacle end of connector (from ignition
module wiring harness). See Figure 7-4. Install terminals
following procedure outlined under DEUTSCH ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS on page 7-46.
6.
Connect sensor plate (8) wiring to wiring harness connector (20) [P16].
7.
Check ignition timing. See IGNITION TIMING in Section 1.
8.
Final tighten timer plate studs (6) to 12-20 in-lbs (1.4-2.3
Nm).
9.
Install gasket (5) and inner cover (4) using screws (3).
Tighten screws to 12-20 in-lbs (1.4-2.3 Nm).
10. See Figure 7-9. Remove timer plate studs. Carefully
remove sensor plate. Remove bolt (7) and trigger rotor (9).
11. Carefully remove camshaft oil seal (10) if damaged or if
there is any evidence of oil leakage past the seal.
INSTALLATION
1.
2.
3.
See Figure 7-9. With the lipped side facing inboard,
install new camshaft oil seal (10) into gearcase cover
(11), if removed. Press seal into position until flush with
surface of timer bore.
Position trigger rotor (9) onto end of camshaft aligning
notch with camshaft slot. Apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242 (blue) to bolt (7). Install bolt to secure
rotor. Tighten bolt to 75-80 in-lbs (8.5-9.0 Nm).
Install sensor plate (8) and timer plate studs (6). Rotate
sensor plate to its previously marked position to obtain
approximate ignition timing.
1CAUTION
Route sensor plate wires about 1-1/2 in. (38 mm) forward
of gearcase cover rear edge. If wires are routed too far to
the rear of this position, they could contact the moving
secondary drive belt and/or sprocket resulting in damage
to sensor plate wiring.
4.
Route sensor plate wiring leads.
1CAUTION
Use only H-D Part No. 8699 rivets to secure outer timing
cover. These rivets are specially designed so that no rivet
end falls off into the timing compartment. Use of regular
rivets can damage ignition system components and may
allow water to enter the timing compartment.
10. Secure timer cover (2) to inner cover using new rivets.
1WARNING
Always connect the positive battery cable first. If the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable
installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
a.
Downward through hole (7 o’clock position) in timer
bore of gearcase cover (11).
b.
Upward through bottom opening between right
crankcase half and rear of gearcase cover.
c.
Route wiring around tower shaft behind gearcase
cover. Route wires upward to starter motor.
Hold battery cable when tightening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
d.
Cable strap sensor plate wiring. See Step 3 of
REMOVAL.
11. Install battery cables, positive cable first.
1CAUTION
7-15
IGNITION COIL
GENERAL
dyn808
The ignition coil is mounted on the frame underneath the fuel
tank and behind the steering neck.
Ignition coil primary
circuit test
See Figure 7-9. The ignition coil (13) is a pulse-type transformer. Internally, the coil consists of primary and secondary
windings with a laminated iron core. The contents are sealed
in a waterproof insulating compound. The ignition coil is not
repairable. Replace the unit if it fails.
The low-voltage ignition primary circuit consists of the coil primary winding, ignition module (23) and battery. When the circuit is closed, current flows through the coil primary winding
creating a strong magnetic field in the iron core of the ignition
coil.
Ignition coil secondary
circuit test
When the ignition module receives a signal from the ignition
sensor plate (8) and trigger rotor (9), the ignition module interrupts (opens) the ignition primary circuit, which causes the
magnetic field in the coil core to collapse suddenly.
The collapsing magnetic field induces a high-voltage electrical discharge in the ignition secondary circuit, which consists
of the coil secondary winding, spark plug cables and spark
plugs (12). The high-voltage discharge produces a spark to
bridge the electrode gap of each spark plug.
The ignition coil fires both spark plugs simultaneously. In one
spark plug, the spark jumps from the center electrode to the
outer electrode, but on the other plug, the spark jumps in the
reverse direction (from the outer electrode to the center electrode).
Figure 7-11. Test Ignition Coil Resistance Tests
Table 7-3. Ignition Coil Winding Resistance
IGNITION COIL
WINDING
Primary
TROUBLESHOOTING
Follow the troubleshooting procedures listed under IGNITION
SYSTEM if the engine will not start, is difficult to start or runs
roughly. Also check condition of spark plug cables. Insulation
on cables may be cracked or damaged allowing high tension
current to short to metal parts. This problem is most noticeable when cables are wet.
If poor starting/running condition persists, check resistance of
ignition coil primary and secondary windings using an ohmmeter. See Figure 7-11. Resistance values should be within
the limits shown in Table 7-3.
7-16
Secondary
●
OHMMETER NORMAL RESISTANCE
SCALE
RANGE (IN OHMS)
RX1
2.5-3.1
RX1K
10,000-12,500
NOTE
A low resistance value indicates a short in the coil winding-replace coil.
●
A high resistance value might indicate that there is some
corrosion/oxidation of the coil terminals. Clean the terminals and repeat resistance test. If resistance is still high
after cleaning terminals, replace coil.
●
An infinite ohms (∞ or no continuity) resistance value
indicates an open circuit (a break in the coil winding)replace coil.
REMOVAL
5731
1WARNING
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding. Always disconnect the negative cable first. If
the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
2
3
1
1CAUTION
5
Hold battery cable when loosening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
1.
Disconnect battery cables, negative cable first.
2.
Remove seat and fuel tank. See FUEL TANK, REMOVAL
in Section 4.
3.
See Figure 7-12. Disconnect spark plug cables from ignition coil.
4.
Remove nuts and lockwashers to detach pink and white
wires from coil posts.
5.
Remove two screws (2). Mounting plate (3), coil (1), horn
bracket (4) and washer (7) will drop from frame.
4
7
1.
2.
3.
4.
Ignition coil
Screws (2)
Mounting plate
Horn bracket
6
5.
6.
7.
Pink wire coil post
White wire coil post
Washer
Figure 7-12. Ignition Coil
INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 7-12. Place horn mounting bracket (4) on top
of coil. Attach coil to frame with screws (2), washer (7)
and mounting plate (3). Tighten screws (1) to 4-6 ft-lbs
(5.4-8 Nm).
2.
Connect ring terminal of pink wires to forward post. Connect ring terminals of white wires to rear post. Secure
wires with nuts and lockwashers.
3.
Connect spark plug cables to ignition coil. Longer cable
attaches to rear post and rear cylinder spark plug.
1WARNING
After installing seat, pull upward on front of seat to be
sure it is locked in position. If seat is loose, it could shift
during vehicle operation and startle the rider, causing
loss of control and personal injury.
4.
Install fuel tank and seat. See FUEL TANK, INSTALLATION in Section 4.
1WARNING
Always connect the positive battery cable first. If the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable
installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when tightening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
5.
Install battery cables, positive cable first.
7-17
SPARK PLUG CABLES
GENERAL
INSPECTION
Resistor-type high-tension spark plug cables have a carbonimpregnated fabric core (instead of solid wire) for radio noise
suppression and improved reliability of electronic components. Use the exact replacement cable for best results.
1.
REMOVAL
1WARNING
Never disconnect a spark plug cable with the engine running. If you disconnect a spark plug cable with the
engine running, you may receive a potentially fatal electric shock from the ignition system.
Inspect spark plug cables. Replace cables that are worn
or damaged.
a.
Check for cracks or loose terminals.
b.
Check for loose fit on ignition coil and spark plugs.
2.
Check cable boots/caps for cracks or tears. Replace
boots/caps that are worn or damaged.
3.
Check spark plug cable resistance with an ohmmeter.
Resistance must be 1625-3796 ohms for 6-1/2 in. (165
mm) cable, and 5000-11,680 ohms for 20 in. (508 mm)
cable. Replace cables that do not meet resistance specifications.
1CAUTION
When disconnecting each spark plug cable from its
spark plug terminal, always grasp and pull on the rubber
boot at the end of the cable assembly (as close as possible to the spark plug terminal). Do not pull on the cable
portion itself. Pulling on the cable will damage the
cable’s carbon core.
Disconnect spark plug cables from ignition coil and spark plug
terminals.
7-18
INSTALLATION
Connect spark plug cables to ignition coil and spark plugs.
Make sure boots/caps are secured properly; this will provide
the necessary moisture-proof environment for the ignition coil
and spark plug terminals.
NOTE
See Section 1 for spark plug information.
STARTER INTERLOCK
GENERAL
Ignition Circuit
The starter interlock system is designed to prevent unintended start-up and/or forward motion of the motorcycle with
the vehicle’s side stand not retracted.
Two circuits make up the starter interlock system.
The ignition circuit prevents the motorcycle from operating
unless a ground is established at the ignition relay. If this
ground is not established, the ignition system will be not
turned on and the motorcycle will not run. Grounds may be
established three ways.
Starter Circuit
The starter circuit prevents the motorcycle from being started
unless a ground has been established at the starter relay.
This ground may come from one of two sources.
a.
By placing the motorcycle in neutral and grounding
through the neutral switch.
b.
By disengaging the clutch and grounding through
the clutch lever switch.
Once the starter circuit is grounded and the starter button
pushed, the starter relay can be energized. The energized
relay then permits the starter motor to crank the engine.
a.
By retracting the side stand and grounding through
the side stand switch.
b.
By placing the motorcycle in neutral and grounding
through the neutral switch.
c.
By disengaging the clutch and grounding through
the clutch lever switch.
Note that the ignition circuit allows operation in gear with the
side stand extended if the clutch is disengaged. However, if
the motorcycle is in gear with the side stand extended, and
the clutch is released, the ignition ground is lost and the ignition system is turned off. This system will prevent operation of
the vehicle if forward motion is attempted with the side stand
down.
See Figure 7-13.
Table 7-4. Starter Interlock Troubleshooting
PROBLEM
Electric starter will not crank.
CHECK FOR
CORRECTION
Battery problems.
See BATTERY in Section 1.
Inappropriate gear selected.
Place vehicle in neutral.
Clutch lever not disengaged.
Pull in clutch lever.
Starter relay problems.
Listen for starter relay “click”. If click is not heard,
perform starter relay tests.
Follow starter troubleshooting in Section 5.
Electric starter cranks, but vehicle
will not start.
Side stand not retracted.
Retract side stand.
Motorcycle will not start with side
stand retracted.
Clutch lever not disengaged.
Pull in clutch lever.
Motorcycle will not start with side
stand retracted or clutch disengaged.
Ignition relay problems.
Listen for relay “click”. If click is not heard, perform
ignition system tests.
Motorcycle will not start after starter
relay tests.
No spark at spark plug.
Check for 12 VDC at coil white/black wire.
Follow ignition system troubleshooting on page 7-6.
7-19
7-20
b0241x7x
ELECTRONIC IGNITION
VACUUM SWITCH
TIMER AND PICKUP
BK
BK
TN
NEUTRAL
2 1
BK
V/W
GN/W
PK
R/W
BK/W
W/BK
BK
V/W
P7
R/W
BK/W
TN
GN/W
P10
P1
BE
W/R
GN/BK
Y/O
GY
W/BK
W/BK
BK/R
1
2
3
4
BK
V/W
GN/W
PK
R/W
BK/W
W/BK
IGN POWER
IGN MODULE
FROM (2)
TO STARTER
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
A B C
P16
NEUTRAL
SWITCH
P3
TN
12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
S8
BK
P14
TN/W
2 1
BK W
SIDE STAND
SWITCH
S2
S1
TN
S13
S11
MAIN CHASSIS GROUND
S12
TN
TN/GN
S10
TN/GN
BK
R
TN/GN
MASTER
30A CIRCUIT
BREAKER
S7
TN/GN
S15
R
GN
TN/W
GY
P13
PK
TN/W
P8
CLUTCH SWITCH
VIEW FROM FUSE
INSERTION SIDE
P12
W/BK
COIL
A
B
C
D
TN/GN
BK
TN/GN
BK/R
R
1
2
R/B K
FROM IGN RLY R/BE
TO GROUND
BK
R/BK
S14
P5
GN
BK
BK
IGNITION
GY/O
R/BK
15A
LT.BE
COLOR CODE:
BE
BLUE
GY
GRAY
TN
TAN
BK
BLACK
O
ORANGE
V
VIOLET
BN
GN
BROWN
GREEN
PK
R
PINK
RED
R/BK
LIGHT BLUE
W
Y
GY/O
REAR PLUG
GY/O
GY/O
NO CONNECTION
CONNECTION
GY/O
WHITE
YELLOW
85
87
TN/W
TN/W
CABLE COLOR
XX
STRIPE COLOR
PIN CONNECTOR
SOCKET CONNECTOR
LIGHTS
R/BK
86
BK/R
15A
30
ACCESSORIES
85
87
R/BK
GY
87A
XX
R/BK
15A
FRONT PLUG
86
DIODE
INSTRUMENTS
TN/GN
GN
KEY SWITCH
30
87A
15A
R/BK
IGN
IGNITION RELAY
FUSE BLOCK
P9
STARTER RELAY
R/GY
R
OFF
LOCK
BATTERY
1996 BUELL S1-LIGHTNING WIRING DIAGRAM
4/18/96
Figure 7-13. Starter Interlock System
TESTING/REPLACEMENT
b0244x7x
Side Stand Switch
Side stand up
switch closed
(0 ohms)
See Figure 7-14. The side stand switch is a simple spring
loaded plunger. The switch completes a path to ground for the
ignition relay when the side stand is in the retracted position.
Test the switch as follows.
1.
Unplug the 2-place side stand switch connector [P14].
2.
Test the switch using an ohmmeter.
3.
a.
When the switch is open (side stand down), the
switch should show ∞ ohms (infinite ohms).
b.
When the switch is closed (side stand up), the switch
should show 0 ohms or little resistance.
Side stand down
switch open
(infinite ohms)
Replace the assembly with a new switch if necessary.
Remove side stand switch from frame by turning counterclockwise.
Clutch Switch
Connector [P14]
See Figure 7-15. The clutch switch attaches to the clutch control lever bracket. The switch completes a path to ground for
the ignition relay and the starter relay when the clutch is disengaged. Test the switch as follows.
Figure 7-14. Side Stand Switch
b0243x7x
1.
Unplug the 2-place clutch switch connector [P5].
2.
Test the switch using an ohm meter.
3.
a.
When the switch is open (clutch engaged), the
switch should show ∞ ohms (infinite ohms).
b.
When the switch is closed (clutch disengaged), the
switch should show 0 ohms or little resistance.
Replace the assembly with a new switch if necessary.
a.
Remove small Phillips screw.
b.
Depress clutch lever and hold.
c.
Detach switch by depressing switch trigger button
and pulling switch towards the end of the handlebar.
d.
Install new switch.
Trigger button
Clutch disengaged
switch closed
(0 ohms)
Diodes
The main wiring harness contains two diodes along the left
side frame tube. The harness sheath has a white mark showing the location of the diodes. A diode acts as a one way
switch which permits current flow in one direction, but not in
the other. Test the diodes as follows.
Clutch engaged
switch open
(infinite ohms)
TESTING DIODE S12/S13
1.
Disconnect the following connectors:
a.
Instruments and indicator lamps [P3].
b.
Clutch switch [P5].
c.
Ignition relay [P12].
2.
Test for continuity in both directions between wire 1 (TN/
GN) on [P5] and wire 8 (TN) on [P3]. Ohmmeter should
show continuity in one direction, but not the other.
Replace the diode with a new diode if necessary.
3.
Attach connectors separated in Step 1.
Connector [P5]
Figure 7-15. Clutch Switch
7-21
TESTING DIODE S14/S15
5732
1.
2.
Disconnect the following connectors:
a.
Instruments and indicator lamps [P3].
b.
Clutch switch [P5].
c.
Ignition relay [P12].
Test for continuity in both directions between ignition
relay [P12] wire 85 (TN/W) and clutch switch [P5] wire 1
(TN/GN). Ohmmeter should show continuity in one direction, but not the other. Replace the diode with a new
diode if necessary.
3.
Ignition relay
Circuit breaker
Attach connectors separated in Step 1.
Ignition Relay
See Figure 7-16. The ignition relay is under the tail section
along the right side frame tube. Test the relay as follows.
1.
Remove seat and fuel tank. See FUEL TANK, REMOVAL
in Section 4.
2.
Remove mounting bolt to detach relay from frame.
3.
Disconnect the 4-place connector [P12].
4.
Test the relay in the same fashion as the starter relay.
See Section 5.
5.
Replace the relay with a new relay if necessary.
Figure 7-16. Ignition Relay and Circuit Breaker
b0242x7x
VIEW FROM FUSE
INSERTION SIDE
IGNITION
GY/O
R/BK
15A
O
INSTRUMENTS
O
Starter Relay
The starter relay is on the left side forward of the oil tank. See
STARTER SYSTEM TESTING in Section 5.
R/BK
15A
LIGHTS
R/BK
BE
15A
ACCESSORIES
Main Circuit Breaker
See Figure 7-16. Attached to the frame above the battery, the
main circuit breaker is between the ignition key switch and the
battery. The main circuit breaker can be removed as follows.
1.
Remove seat and fuel tank. See FUEL TANK, REMOVAL
in Section 4.
2.
Remove battery negative terminal from frame.
3.
Remove nuts and wire leads from circuit breaker studs.
4.
Remove circuit breaker from circuit breaker clip.
O/W
O/W
R/GY
15A
SPARE
FUSE
FUSE BLOCK
P11
NOTE
Depending upon vehicle production date, there may be
one or two blue wires exiting the LIGHTS socket of the
fuse block. Early 1996 vehicles have a blue wire without
a terminating connection.
Ignition Fuse
See Figure 7-17. The ignition fuse is in the fuse block under
the right side of the tail section. Always replace the fuse with
another 15 ampere fuse.
7-22
Figure 7-17. Fuse Block
7
CHARGING SYSTEM
GENERAL
5682
Voltage regulator
The charging system consists of the alternator and regulator.
See page 7-25 for charging system circuits.
Alternator
The alternator consists of two main components: the rotor
which is mounted on the engine sprocket shaft, and the stator, which is bolted to the engine crankcase.
Voltage Regulator
See Figure 7-18. The voltage regulator is a series regulator
with shunt control. The circuit combines the functions of rectifying and regulating.
Figure 7-18. Voltage Regulator
TROUBLESHOOTING
When the charging system fails or does not charge at a satisfactory rate, it is recommended that the following checks be
made.
Battery
Check for a weak or dead battery. See BATTERY in
Section 1. Battery must be fully charged in order to perform
any electrical tests.
Wiring
Check for corroded or loose connections in the charging circuit. See Figure 7-19.
Voltage Regulator Inspection
The voltage regulator base must have a clean, tight connection for proper grounding. Check by using an ohmmeter with
one lead on a known good ground, such as battery ground
cable, and the other on the regulator base.
Connector plug to engine crankcase must be clean and tight.
7-23
Charging System Troubleshooting
NOTE
Whenever a charging system component fails a test and is
replaced, the system must be re-tested to be sure problem
has been corrected.
SYMPTOM:
BATTERY BECOMES DISCHARGED
Test battery.
Charge or replace as required. See
BATTERY in Section 1.
Pass
Correct as required.
Inspect regulator.
See REGULATOR INSPECTION.
Fail
Pass
Replace regulator.
Test regulator.
See REGULATOR BLEED TEST.
Fail
Pass
Isolate damaged
component or wiring.
Fail
Perform MILLIAMP DRAW TEST (If applicable).
Pass
Isolate damaged wiring or
excessive accessories.
Fail
Perform TOTAL CURRENT DRAW TEST.
Record measurement.
Pass
Replace stator.
Fail
Perform
STATOR
CHECK.
Fail
Perform CURRENT OUTPUT TEST.
Record measurement and compare with
TOTAL CURRENT DRAW TEST before
proceeding.
Pass
Pass
Fail
Inspect
rotor.
Replace
rotor.
Pass
Fail
Perform VOLTAGE OUTPUT TEST.
Pass
Fail
Replace
regulator.
Pass
System tests good up to this point.
Replace
stator.
Damaged or
slipping rotor.
7-24
Perform
AC
OUTPUT
TEST.
Replace regulator.
Fail
Perform CURRENT OUTPUT
TEST.
Suspect:
1.
Accessories on for long periods when
vehicle is parked and not running.
2.
Accessories on when vehicle is ridden
very slowly for long periods.
3.
Battery self-discharge and/or accessory draw because vehicle was not
operated for a long period.
b0240x7x
BK
MASTER
30A CIRCUIT
BREAKER
BK
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
BK
BK
BK
1 2
P17
BK
BK
BATTERY
LT.BE
COLOR CODE:
STATOR
LIGHT BLUE
BE
BLUE
GY
GRAY
TN
TAN
BK
BLACK
O
ORANGE
V
VIOLET
BN
BROWN
PK
PINK
W
WHITE
GN
GREEN
R
RED
Y
YELLOW
DIODE
XX
CABLE COLOR
XX
STRIPE COLOR
NO CONNECTION
CONNECTION
PIN CONNECTOR
SOCKET CONNECTOR
Figure 7-19. Charging System Circuit
7-25
TESTING
3 milliamperes
maximum
flt0808
Voltage Regulator Bleed Test
Be sure regulator is connected to battery. Unplug regulator
connector to engine crankcase. Use a trouble light and touch
one probe to a known good ground and the other to the regulator pins, one at a time. If light glows, replace regulator.
Amp
12 VDC
battery
Milliampere Draw Test
Ignition
OFF
NOTE
Be sure accessories are not wired so they stay on at all times.
Check for this by connecting ammeter between negative battery terminal and battery.
Battery
negative
cable
Figure 7-20. Milliampere Draw Test
d0004x8x
See Figure 7-20. Connect ammeter between negative battery
terminal and battery. With this arrangement, you will also pick
up any regulator drain. With ignition switch and all lights and
accessories turned to LOCK, amperage reading should be 3
milliamperes maximum. A higher reading indicates excessive
current draw.
Load tester
Any accessories must be considered and checked for excessive drain.
This condition could drain battery completely if vehicle is
parked for a long time.
NOTE
A battery with a surface discharge condition could suffer a
static drain. Correct by cleaning battery case.
Total Current Draw Test
See Figure 7-21. If battery runs down during use, the current
draw of the motorcycle components and accessories may
exceed output of the charging system. To check for this condition, place load tester induction pickup or current probe
pickup over battery negative cable.
With ignition and all continuously running lights and accessories turned on (headlamp on high beam), wait 10 seconds,
and then read the total current draw. Compare this reading to
the reading obtained in CURRENT AND VOLTAGE OUTPUT
TEST. The current output should exceed current draw by 6.5
amps, minimum (3 amps for ignition and 3.5 amps for battery
maintenance). If not, there may be too many accessories for
the charging system to handle.
NOTE
Rider’s habits may require output test at lower RPM.
7-26
Figure 7-21. Check Current Draw (Ignition Switch On)
Current and Voltage Output Test
1.
d0005x8x
Load tester
See Figure 7-22. Connect load tester.
a.
Connect negative and positive leads to battery terminals.
b.
Place load tester induction pickup over positive regulator cable.
2.
Run the engine at 2000 RPM. Increase the load as
required to obtain a constant 13.0 VDC.
3.
The current output should be 19-23 amps. Make note of
measurement.
To circuit breaker
(DC output)
Voltage Output Test
See Figure 7-22. After removing the load, read the load tester
voltage meter. Voltage to the battery must not be more than
15 VDC. If voltage is higher, regulator is not functioning properly or connections are loose or dirty.
To stator
1CAUTION
Do not leave any load switch turned on for more than 20
seconds or overheating and tester damage are possible.
Figure 7-22. Current and Voltage Output Test
5683
Stator Check
1.
Turn ignition to LOCK.
2.
Disconnect stator wiring from voltage regulator wiring at
connector [P17].
3.
See Figure 7-23. Connect an ohmmeter on the RX1
scale between crankcase and either stator socket. Test
for continuity.
4.
a.
A good stator will show no continuity (∞ ohms)
across either test point.
b.
Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
See Figure 7-24. Check the resistance using an ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale.
a.
Resistance across the stator sockets or pins should
be 0.2-0.4 ohms.
b.
If the resistance is lower, the stator is damaged and
must be replaced.
Figure 7-23. Test for Grounded Stator
5684
Figure 7-24. Check for Stator Resistance
7-27
AC Output Check
1.
See Figure 7-25. Test AC output.
a.
Disconnect voltage regulator wiring at connector
[P17].
b.
Connect an AC voltmeter across both stator sockets.
c.
Run the engine at 2000 RPM. The AC output should
be 38-52 volts AC.
2.
3.
5685a
Compare test results to specifications.
a.
If the output is below specifications, charging problem could be a faulty rotor or stator.
b.
If output is good, charging problem might be faulty
regulator/rectifier. Replace as required.
Check the output again as described under Current and
Voltage Output Test.
7-28
Figure 7-25. Check Stator AC Voltage Output
ALTERNATOR
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
1WARNING
3558
Rotor
Blocking
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding. Always disconnect the negative cable first. If
the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when loosening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
1.
Disconnect battery cables, negative cable first.
2.
Remove primary cover. See PRIMARY CHAIN in Section 6.
3.
Remove clutch assembly, primary chain and engine
sprocket/rotor assembly as a unit. Refer to PRIMARY
DRIVE/CLUTCH in Section 6. Remove/disassemble
rotor and/or stator, as required. Refer to the following
procedures.
Sprocket
Figure 7-26. Removing Rotor From Sprocket
b0082x7x
1
Rotor
1.
Remove bolts which secure alternator rotor to engine
sprocket.
2.
See Figure 7-26. Position blocking under rotor. Press
sprocket free of rotor.
5
3
2
4
NOTE
Resistance to sprocket/rotor disassembly is due in part to the
magnetic force of the permanent rotor magnets.
Stator
1.
2.
3.
Stator
Torx screw (4)
Grommet
4.
5.
Stator wiring
Connector [P17]
Figure 7-27. Stator Assembly
1.
See Figure 7-27. Disconnect stator wiring (4) from voltage regulator wiring at connector (5) [P17].
2.
Remove cable straps holding stator wire to frame.
3.
Withdraw stator wiring (4) from below starter.
4.
Remove and discard the four Torx screws (2) which
secure stator (1) to left crankcase half.
1CAUTION
Stator TORX screws contain a thread locking compound.
Do not reuse existing screws. Always use new screws
with the proper thread locking compound. Loss of torque
on TORX fasteners could result in alternator damage.
5.
Remove stator wiring grommet (3) from left crankcase
half.
6.
Withdraw stator wiring (4) from grommet hole in left
crankcase half. Remove stator (1).
7-29
CLEANING, INSPECTION
AND REPAIR
3560
Pipe
section
Rotor
1CAUTION
Do not strike or drop alternator rotor or damage to magnet adhesive may occur. Magnet adhesive damage can
result in rotor failure.
1.
Clean rotor with a petroleum-base solvent. Remove all
foreign material from rotor magnets. Replace rotor if rotor
magnets are cracked or loose.
2.
Clean stator by wiping with a clean cloth.
3.
Examine stator leads for cracked or damaged insulation.
NOTE
The rotor and stator can be replaced individually if either is
damaged.
Sprocket
Figure 7-28. Pressing Rotor onto Sprocket
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
7.
Depending on whether the rotor, the stator, or both the rotor
and stator were removed/disassembled, perform the applicable procedures which follow:
1.
See Figure 7-27. Feed stator wiring (4) with attached
grommet (3) into open grommet hole in left crankcase
half.
2.
Apply a light coating of clean engine oil or chaincase
lubricant to grommet. Install grommet into hole in left
crankcase half.
1CAUTION
Stator TORX screws contain a thread locking compound.
Do not reuse existing screws. Always use new screws
with the proper thread locking compound. Loss of torque
on TORX fasteners could result in alternator damage.
3.
Position stator (1) on left crankcase half. Secure stator
using four new Torx screws (2). Tighten screws to
30-40 in-lbs (3.4-3.5 Nm).
4.
Route stator wiring (4) below starter to frame upright.
NOTE
Temporarily attach a thin flexible “feed” or mechanic’s wire to
the connector end of the stator wiring to assist in the routing
of the wiring
5.
Route stator wiring upward along side of frame upright.
Connect stator wiring connector [P17] to voltage regulator.
6.
Secure stator wiring, along with any other wires and
hoses routed in the same location, to frame using cable
straps.
7-30
See Figure 7-28. Attach rotor to sprocket.
a.
Position rotor on sprocket. Align holes in sprocket
with holes in rotor.
b.
Apply a drop of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242
(blue) to threads of each mounting bolt. Insert
mounting bolts through rotor and start bolts into
tapped holes in sprocket.
c.
Position a section of pipe with an inside diameter
larger than the sprocket mounting hub over center of
rotor. Press rotor onto sprocket. Tighten bolts to 90110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm).
8.
Install clutch assembly, primary chain and engine
sprocket/rotor assembly as a unit. See PRIMARY
DRIVE/CLUTCH in Section 6.
9.
Install primary cover. See PRIMARY CHAIN in Section 6.
1WARNING
Always connect positive battery cable first. If the positive
cable should contact ground with the negative cable
installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion resulting in personal injury.
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when loosening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
10. Connect battery cables, positive cable first.
11. Test charging system. See CHARGING SYSTEM on
page 7-23.
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
GENERAL
b0227x7x
The voltage regulator is on the right side next to the battery.
The voltage regulator is not repairable. Replace the unit if it
fails.
BK
R
MASTER
CIRCUIT
BREAKER
30A
BK
REMOVAL
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
1WARNING
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before proceeding. Always disconnect the negative cable first. If
the positive cable should contact ground with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
GN
BK
BK
BK
1 2
P17
BK
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when loosening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
BK
STATOR
BATTERY
1.
Disconnect battery cables, negative cable first.
1CAUTION
When disconnecting the alternator stator wiring, pull
apart the connector by firmly grasping both connector
halves. Do not pull on leads or damage to the wires and/
or terminals may result.
2.
See Figure 7-29. Disconnect voltage regulator connector
[P17] from alternator stator wiring.
3.
Disconnect charging wire (black) from gold terminal on
the main circuit breaker.
4.
See Figure 7-30. Remove screws (1, 3), washers (2) and
lockwasher (5). Detach and remove groundstrap from
long screw (1).
5.
Remove and discard voltage regulator (3).
INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 7-30. Install new voltage regulator with
longer screw (1) next to battery. Attach groundstrap
under voltage regulator mount.
2.
Connect voltage regulator connector [P17] to alternator
stator wiring.
3.
Route charging wire to gold post on main circuit breaker.
Attach wire to frame with new cable straps.
Figure 7-29. Voltage Regulator Connector [P17]
b0072a7x
8
1
2
3
7
4
5
1.
2.
3.
4.
6
Screw (long)
Washer (2)
Screw (short)
Voltage regulator
5.
6.
7.
8.
Lockwasher
Charging wire
Connector [P17]
Cable-strap
Figure 7-30. Voltage Regulator
1WARNING
Always connect positive battery cable first. If the positive
cable should contact ground with the negative cable
installed, the resulting sparks may cause a battery explosion resulting in personal injury.
1CAUTION
Hold battery cable when tightening battery terminal hardware. Failure to hold cable may cause battery damage.
4.
Connect battery cables, positive cable first.
5.
Test charging system. See CHARGING SYSTEM on
page 7-23.
7-31
BATTERY
GENERAL
●
●
b0228x7x
1WARNING
Batteries contain sulfuric acid which can cause severe
burns. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing.
1
3
Batteries produce explosive hydrogen gas at all
times, especially when being charged. Keep cigarettes, open flame and sparks away from the battery
at all times. Ventilate area when charging battery.
Always protect hands and protect eyes with shield or
goggles when working near a battery or acid. KEEP
BATTERIES AND ACID OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN!
2
8
7
5
See Figure 7-31. The battery is below the seat in the center of
the vehicle. The battery can be removed from the left side of
the motorcycle without removing the tail section or fuel tank.
NOTE
The battery requires no additional fluid at any time. See BATTERY in Section 1 for removal/installation and charging procedures.
6
1.
2.
3.
4.
4
Positive cable
Bolt
Negative cable
Battery strap
5.
6.
7.
8.
Locknut
Bottom pad
Battery
Rear pad
Figure 7-31. Battery
7-32
HEADLAMP
REMOVAL
b0231x7x
13
Headlamp and Bulbs
1.
See Figure 7-32. Loosen screw (10) at bottom of headlamp.
2.
Pry headlamp (9) from headlamp housing (13).
3.
See Figure 7-33. Press retaining clip (4) and remove
position lamp bulb (3) from headlamp. Twist bulb to
remove from harness.
3
4
12
5
11
7
1
1WARNING
8
2
6
The bulb contains Halogen gas under pressure. Handle
bulb careful and wear eye protech to avoid possible personal injury.
1CAUTION
Never touch the bulb with your fingers. Fingerprints will
etch the glass and cause the bulb to fail. Always wrap the
bulb in paper or a clean, dry cloth during handling.
4.
5.
Remove headlamp bulb (6).
a.
Detach headlamp bulb connector.
b.
Open the wire retaining latch (1).
c.
Pull bulb housing from headlamp housing.
10
9
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Screw (2) (metric)
Washer (2)
Locknut (4)
Bracket (2)
Bolt (4) (2 sizes)
Connector [P4]
Headlamp bulb
connector
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Headlamp bulb
Headlamp
Captured screw
Ground wire
Position lamp bulb
Headlamp housing
Figure 7-32. Headlamp Assembly
Disconnect ground wire from headlamp.
5733
Headlamp Housing and Brackets
1.
See Figure 7-32. Remove screw (1) (metric) and washer
(2) on each side.
2.
Detach speedometer cable from headlamp housing clip.
3.
Remove seat and fuel tank. See FUEL TANK, REMOVAL
in Section 4.
4.
2
5
See Figure 7-34. Cut as many cable straps as necessary
to access headlamp connector [P4] along right side
frame tube. Detach connector [P4] from wiring harness.
5.
Remove headlamp housing from vehicle.
6.
Remove headlamp brackets.
a.
Remove front turn signals. See TURN SIGNALS,
REMOVAL on page 7-37.
b.
Remove windscreen mounting brackets.
c.
See Figure 7-32. Remove four bolts (5) and locknuts
(3).
d.
Remove front forks and headlamp brackets (4). See
FRONT FORK, REMOVAL in Section 2.
1
6
3
4
1.
2.
3.
Wire retaining latch
Headlamp
Position lamp bulb
4.
5.
6.
Retaining clip
Ground connection
Headlamp bulb
Figure 7-33. Headlamp Bulbs
NOTE
Lower bolt on right headlamp bracket is longer than the three
other bolts. A wire guide and two washers are installed on this
bolt. The wire guide keeps cables away from the forks.
7-33
INSTALLATION
Headlamp Brackets and Housing
1.
a.
Install front forks through triple clamps and brackets.
See FRONT FORK, INSTALLATION in Section 2.
b.
See Figure 7-32. Install four bolts (5) and locknuts
(3). Wire guide and two washers go on lower bolt on
right headlamp bracket. Place wires into wire guide.
d.
3.
RIGHT FRONT
TURN SIGNAL
R/BK
BN
BE
BK
Install headlamp brackets.
c.
2.
b0229x7x
Place windscreen brackets on the inside of the
headlamp brackets.
Install front turn signals. See TURN SIGNALS,
INSTALLATION on page 7-37.
See Figure 7-34. Route headlamp wire harness between
front forks and along right side frame tube. Attach connector [P4] to wiring harness. Fasten wiring harness to
frame with new cable straps.
See Figure 7-32. Install headlamp housing using two
screws (1) (metric) and washers (2). Tighten to 6-8 ft-lbs
(8.1-10.8 Nm).
4.
Install fuel tank and seat. See FUEL TANK, INSTALLATION in Section 4.
5.
Attach speedometer cable to headlamp housing clip.
1WARNING
Check for proper headlamp operation before riding
motorcycle. Visibility is a major concern for motorcyclists. Failure to have proper headlamp operation could
lead to personal injury.
6.
Check ignition/headlamp switch for proper operation.
Headlamp and Bulbs
1WARNING
The bulb contains Halogen gas under pressure. Handle
bulb careful and wear eye protech to avoid possible personal injury.
1CAUTION
Never touch the bulb with your fingers. Fingerprints will
etch the glass and cause the bulb to fail. Always wrap the
bulb in paper or a clean, dry cloth during handling.
1.
See Figure 7-33. Install headlamp bulb (6).
a.
Align tabs on bulb housing with tabs on headlamp.
Insert bulb.
b.
Close the wire retaining latch (1).
c.
Connect the headlamp bulb connector.
NOTE
When replacement is required, see your Buell dealer. Not
using the specified bulb may cause charging system problems.
2.
Insert position lamp bulb (3).
3.
Connect ground wire (5).
4.
See Figure 7-32. Place headlamp in housing (13).
Tighten screw (10).
5.
Align headlamp. See HEADLAMP in Section 1.
7-34
HEADLAMP
CONNECTOR
POSITION LMP
HIGH BEAM
LOW BEAM
LMP GROUND
O/W
W
Y
BK
1
2
3
4
O/W
W
Y
BK
S9
P4
S4
HEADLAMP
LEFT FRONT
TURN SIGNAL
[P4] WIRE
LT.BE
V
BE
BK
S5
TERMINATION
1
Splice number six
2
Splice number nine
3
Splice number four
4
Splice number one
Figure 7-34. Headlamp Connector [P4]
TAIL LAMP
REMOVAL/DISASSEMBLY
b0234x7x
3
Tail Lamp
1.
1
See Figure 7-35. If necessary, remove tail lamp bulb (3).
a.
Remove two screws (1) to detach tail lamp lens.
b.
Turn bulb counterclockwise and remove.
2.
Remove two locknuts (7) (metric) and washers (6).
3.
Disconnect the three terminals and remove tail lamp.
4
2
5
6
Tail Lamp Bracket
1.
Remove seat and tail section. See TAIL SECTION,
REMOVAL in Section 2.
2.
See Figure 7-36. Cut cable straps holding tail lamp wiring
harness to rear frame. Detach connector [P11] from main
wiring harness.
3.
See Figure 7-35. Remove seat wing screw (9).
4.
Remove bolt (4) to detach bracket from frame.
5.
Remove turn signals. See TURN SIGNALS, REMOVAL
on page 7-37.
6.
Remove tail lamp.
7.
Remove reflectors (8).
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
Tail Lamp Bracket
1.
See Figure 7-35. Install reflectors (8).
2.
Install tail lamp with washers (6) and locknuts (7) (metric).
3.
Install turn signals. See TURN SIGNALS, INSTALLATION on page 7-37.
4.
Attach bracket (5) to frame with bolt (4) and seat wing
screw (9).
5.
Use new cable straps to secure tail lamp wiring harness
to rear frame. Attach connector [P11] to main wiring harness. See Figure 7-36.
6.
Install tail section and seat. See TAIL SECTION, INSTALLATION in Section 2.
7
8
9
10
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Screw (2)
Tail lamp
Tail lamp bulb
Bolt
Tail lamp bracket
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Washer (2)
Locknut (2) (metric)
Reflector (2)
Wing screw
Tail lamp connector [P11]
Figure 7-35. Tail Lamp
1WARNING
Check for proper tail lamp and turn signal operation
before riding motorcycle. Visibility is a major concern for
motorcyclists. Failure to have proper lamp operation
could lead to personal injury.
7.
Check tail lamp and turn signals for proper operation.
8.
Use new cable straps to bundle the tail lamp wiring harness under the tail section.
7-35
Tail Lamp
1.
b0230x7x
See Figure 7-37. Install the three tail lamp wires.
BN
BK
NOTE
Early 1996 models may have a blue wire in slot 7 of connector
[P11]. This wire does not have a terminating connection.
Cable strap this wire to the other harness wires.
2.
TAIL LAMP AND
REAR TURN SIGNALS
BK
Turn bulb clockwise to install.
b.
Install tail lamp lens with two screws (1).
BN
O/W
V
BK
BK
R/Y
BK
P15
BE
BK
1
2
BE
BK
Y
BK
LICENSE PLATE
LIGHT
TAIL LAMP
1WARNING
Check for proper tail lamp and turn signal operation
before riding motorcycle. Visibility is a major concern for
motorcyclists. Failure to have proper lamp operation
could lead to personal injury.
R/Y
BK
O/W
P11
S2
If removed, install tail lamp bulb.
a.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
BN
O/W
V
BK
BK
R/Y
See Figure 7-35. Attach tail lamp to bracket with two
locknuts (7) (metric) and washers (6).
3.
RIGHT REAR
TURN SIGNAL
LT.BE
BE
V
BK
[P11] WIRE
LEFT REAR
TURN SIGNAL
R/BK
BE
TERMINATION
1
Splice number four
4.
Check tail lamp and turn signals for proper operation.
2
Accessory fuse in fuse block [P9]
5.
Use new cable straps to bundle the tail lamp wiring harness under the tail section.
3
Splice number five
4
Splice number two
5
Splice number two
6
Rear stoplight switch
7
Unused
8
Splice number two
Figure 7-36. Tail Lamp Connector [P11]
b0246x7x
3
1
1.
2.
3.
2
Black
Orange with white tracer
Red with yellow tracer
Figure 7-37. Tail Lamp Bulb Wires
7-36
TURN SIGNALS
REMOVAL
b0232x7x
Front
1.
Remove headlamp mounting screws (metric) and washers.
2.
See Figure 7-38. Disconnect bullet connectors (5).
3.
Remove screws (1) (metric) and locknuts (6) (metric).
4.
Remove turn signals and standoffs (4).
8
Rear
1.
See Figure 7-38. Cut cable straps to access bullet connectors under tail section. Disconnect bullet connectors.
2.
Remove screws (9) (metric) and nuts (6) (metric).
3.
Remove turn signals from tail lamp bracket (7).
7
6
9
INSTALLATION
NOTE
New turn signal bulbs may be installed by removing screw on
turn signal lens.
5
1
4
Front
1.
3
See Figure 7-38. Install turn signals and standoffs using
screws (1) (metric) and nuts (6) (metric).
NOTE
Install turn signal with lens drain hole facing downward.
2
2.
Attach bullet connectors to wiring harness as shown in
Figure 7-34.
1.
2.
3.
3.
Install headlamp housing using two screws (metric) and
washers. Tighten to 5-7 ft-lbs (6.8-9.5 Nm).
4.
1WARNING
Check for proper turn signal operation before riding
motorcycle. Visibility is a major concern for motorcyclists. Failure to have proper turn signal operation could
lead to personal injury.
4.
Check turn signals for proper operation.
5.
See Figure 7-38. Install turn signals using screws (9)
(metric) and nuts (6) (metric).
NOTE
Install turn signal with lens drain hole facing downward.
2.
Attach bullet connectors to wiring harness as shown in
Figure 7-36.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Locknut (4) (metric)
Tail lamp bracket
Turn signal (left front or
right rear)
Screw (2) (metric)
Figure 7-38. Turn Signals
3.
Rear
1.
Screw (2) (metric)
Bulb (4)
Turn signal (right
front or left rear)
Turn signal standoff
(2, front signals only)
Bullet connectors
(2 per signal)
Cable strap turn signal wires into a bundle beneath the
tail section.
1WARNING
Check for proper turn signal operation before riding
motorcycle. Visibility is a major concern for motorcyclists. Failure to have proper turn signal operation could
lead to personal injury.
4.
Check turn signals for proper operation.
7-37
TURN SIGNAL FLASHER
REMOVAL
5682
NOTE
The turn signal flasher is not repairable. Replace the unit if it
fails.
1.
Remove seat and tail section. See TAIL SECTION,
REMOVAL in Section 2.
2.
See Figure 7-39. Remove screw from clamp.
3.
Remove turn signal flasher and detach both wires.
Flasher
INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 7-39. Connect both wires to flasher.
2.
Place flasher inside clamp so prongs on flasher face
inside and down.
3.
Install on flasher and clamp on frame with screw.
1WARNING
Check for proper turn signal operation before riding
motorcycle. Visibility is a major concern for motorcyclists. Failure to have proper turn signal operation could
lead to personal injury.
4.
7-38
Check turn signals for proper operation.
Figure 7-39. Turn Signal Flasher
HANDLEBAR SWITCHES
REMOVAL
b0235x7x
NOTE
The individual handlebar switches are not repairable. Replace
the switch assembly upon switch failure.
Right Side
1.
See Steps 1-5 of THROTTLE CONTROL, REMOVAL/
DISASSEMBLY in Section 2.
2.
Remove seat and fuel tank. See FUEL TANK, REMOVAL
in Section 4.
3.
See Figure 7-40. Cut as many cable straps as necessary
to access right handlebar switch connector [P1] along
right side frame tube. Detach connector [P1] from wiring
harness.
RIGHT HANDLEBAR
SWITCH CONNECTOR
P1
Left Side
1.
Remove three screws (metric) from handlebar switch.
2.
Separate switch housings and remove from handlebar.
3.
Remove seat and fuel tank. See FUEL TANK, REMOVAL
in Section 4.
4.
See Figure 7-41. Cut as many cable straps as necessary
to access left handlebar switch connector [P6] along right
side frame tube. Detach connector [P6] from wiring harness.
INSTALLATION
Right Side
1.
See Steps 1-3 of THROTTLE CONTROL, ASSEMBLY/
INSTALLATION in Section 2.
2.
Position housings on right handlebar by engaging stud
on front housing with hole in handlebar. Fasten housings
with two screws (metric). Tighten to 12-17 in-lbs (1.41.9 Nm).
3.
See Figure 7-40. Route switch housing wiring harness
between front forks and along right side frame tube.
Attach connector [P1] to wiring harness. Fasten wiring
harness to frame with new cable straps.
4.
Install fuel tank and seat. See FUEL TANK, INSTALLATION in Section 4.
5.
Adjust throttle cables as described under CARBURETOR, CABLE ADJUSTMENT in Section 1.
IGN POWER
IGN MODULE
FROM (2)
TO STARTER
BE
W/R
GN/BK
Y/O
ACC POWER
TO STOPLIGHT
O/W
R/Y
GY
W/BK
W/BK
BK/R
1
2
3
4
P2
1
2
O/W
R/Y
BRAKE SWITCH
[P11] WIRE
TERMINATION
1
Ignition relay [P12]
2
Splice number eight
3
Splice number eight
4
Starter relay [P13]
Figure 7-40. Right Handlebar Switch Connection [P1]
1WARNING
Check all handlebar switch operations before riding
motorcycle. Handlebar switches not operating properly
could lead to personal injury.
6.
Check handlebar switch for proper operation.
7-39
Left Side
1.
Attach switch housing to handlebar with three screws
(metric). Tighten screws to 25-33 in-lbs (2.8-3.7 Nm).
2.
See Figure 7-41. Route switch housing wiring harness
between front forks and along right side frame tube.
Attach connector [P6] to wiring harness. Fasten wiring
harness to frame with new cable straps.
3.
Install fuel tank and seat. See FUEL TANK, INSTALLATION in Section 4.
LEFT HANDLEBAR
SWITCH CONNECTOR
P6
LOW BEAM
W
HIGH BEAM
BK
LIGHT POWER
BN
RIGHT TURN
LT.BE
LEFT TURN
O
FROM FLASHER
BE
HORN
GN
HORN POWER
GY
Y
W
BE
BN
V
V/BN
Y/BK
O/W
P5
1WARNING
FROM IGN RLY
TO GROUND
Check all handlebar switch operations before riding
motorcycle. Handlebar switches not operating properly
could lead to personal injury.
4.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
R/BE
BK
1
2
TN/GN
BK
CLUTCH SWITCH
Check handlebar switch for proper operation.
[P6] WIRE
TERMINATION
1
Headlamp connector [P4]
2
Splice number nine
3
Splice number three
4
Splice number four
5
Splice number five
6
Turn signal flasher
7
Horn
8
Splice number six
Figure 7-41. Left Handlebar Switch Connection [P6]
7-40
HORN
REMOVAL
1.
Remove ignition coil to detach horn bracket from frame.
See IGNITION COIL, REMOVAL on page 7-17.
2.
See Figure 7-42. Remove power wire (6) from spade
connection.
3.
Detach ground wire (4) from horn by removing locknut (1)
(metric) and washer (3).
b0081a7x
6
1
INSTALLATION
1.
See Figure 7-42. Install horn on bracket with ground wire
(4), washer (3) and locknut (1) (metric).
2.
Attach power wire (6).
3.
Install horn and ignition coil. See IGNITION COIL,
INSTALLATION on page 7-17.
TROUBLESHOOTING
1.
2.
If the horn does not sound or fails to function satisfactorily, check for the following conditions.
a.
Discharged battery.
b.
Loose, frayed or damaged wiring leading to horn terminal.
3
4
5
1.
2.
3.
Locknut (metric)
Horn mounting
bracket
Ground connection
4.
5.
6.
Internal tooth washer
Horn
Power wire
Figure 7-42. Horn Assembly
If battery has a satisfactory charge and wiring appears to
be in good condition, check for the following.
a.
Poor ground to frame through mounting hardware or
ground wire (see Steps 3-5 below).
b.
Inoperative horn switch (see Steps 3-5 below).
3.
Remove terminal clips from connections.
4.
Connect a voltmeter as follows.
5.
2
a.
Positive (+) lead to wire terminal.
b.
Negative (–) lead to ground.
Turn ignition switch to IGN. Depress horn switch. If battery voltage is present, horn or horn grounding is faulty. If
battery voltage is not present, either horn switch or wiring
to horn is faulty.
a.
If horn is faulty, then it must be replaced as an
assembly. The horn is not repairable.
b.
If horn switch is faulty, replace left handlebar switch.
See HANDLEBAR SWITCHES, REMOVAL on
page 7-39.
7-41
NEUTRAL INDICATOR SWITCH
GENERAL
xlh0733
See Figure 7-43. The neutral indicator switch (1) is threaded
into the transmission portion of the right crankcase half (2); it
is immediately forward of the main drive gear shaft (3). The
sprocket cover must be removed to test the switch. If switch
requires replacement, secondary drive belt and transmission
sprocket must also be removed; there is not enough clearance to allow the removal of the switch without first removing
the transmission sprocket.
A pin on the shifter drum contacts the neutral indicator switch
plunger, completing the neutral indicator circuit. The switch is
not repairable. Replace the switch if it malfunctions.
3553
TESTING
1.
Remove sprocket cover. See SPROCKET COVER in
Section 2.
2.
See Figure 7-43. Disconnect wire lead from neutral indicator switch (1).
3.
With ignition switch ON, touch the neutral indicator wire
lead to a suitable ground.
4.
a.
If indicator lamp lights, then problem is at indicator
switch. Replace switch.
b.
If indicator lamp does not light, then problem is elsewhere in circuit (i.e. indicator lamp burned out, loose
connection, or faulty wiring).
c.
After testing, connect wire lead to indicator switch.
2
1
3
Install sprocket cover. See SPROCKET COVER in Section 2.
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
1.
Verify that the ignition/headlamp switch is turned to
LOCK.
2.
Remove sprocket cover. See SPROCKET COVER in
Section 2.
3.
See Figure 7-43. Place transmission in first gear.
Remove two socket head screws (7) and lockplate (6).
1CAUTION
Transmission sprocket nut has left-hand threads. Turn
nut clockwise to loosen and remove from main drive gear
shaft. Transmission sprocket nut will be damaged if
turned counterclockwise to remove.
1.
2.
3.
Neutral indicator
switch
Right crankcase half
Main drive gear
shaft
4.
5.
6.
7.
Transmission sprocket
Transmission sprocket
nut (LH threads)
Lockplate
Socket head screw (2)
Figure 7-43. Neutral Indicator Switch
7.
Apply a light coating of LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 242
(blue) to new neutral indicator switch (1) threads. Install
switch in crankcase, and tighten switch to 3-5 ft-lbs (4.06.8 Nm). Connect wire lead to switch.
8.
Install transmission sprocket (4) (with secondary drive
belt) onto main drive gear shaft (3). See TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION AND SHIFTER PAWL ADJUSTMENT in Section 6.
Install sprocket cover. See SPROCKET COVER in Section 2.
4.
Remove transmission sprocket nut (5) from main drive
gear shaft (3).
5.
Decrease secondary drive belt tension by loosening axle
adjusting nuts. See REAR BELT DEFLECTION in Section 1. Remove transmission sprocket (4) (with secondary drive belt) from main drive gear shaft (3).
9.
Remove wire lead from neutral indicator switch (1).
Remove switch from right crankcase half (2).
10. Adjust secondary drive belt tension. See REAR BELT
DEFLECTION in Section 1.
6.
7-42
FUSES AND CIRCUIT BREAKERS
GENERAL
5682
Fuse block
The S1 Lightning features two components which protect the
electrical system.
1WARNING
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible
personal injury, disconnect the battery cables before
servicing motorcycle. Always disconnect the negative
cable first. If the positive cable should contact ground
with the negative cable installed, the resulting sparks
may cause a battery explosion producing personal injury.
Spare fuse
Fuses
See Figure 7-44. Four replaceable fuses are located in the
fuse block on the right side of the frame. A spare fuse is
attached to the fuse block.
The ignition, lights and accessory circuit breakers are each
rated at 15 amperes.
Figure 7-44. Fuse Block
5732
Always investigate the cause of blown fuses before replacing
them. See your Buell dealer for more information.
Circuit Breakers
See Figure 7-45. The main circuit breaker is on the frame
beneath the tail section. The main circuit breaker is rated at
30 amperes.
Circuit breakers prevent electrical overload of a circuit. The
circuit breaker electrical contacts remain closed (completing
the circuit) as long as current (amperage) flowing through the
circuit does not exceed the ampere rating of the breaker. If
the circuit current exceeds the breaker ampere rating, then
the circuit breaker contacts open and the current flow in the
circuit is interrupted.
Circuit breaker
Figure 7-45. Circuit Breaker
Since the circuit breakers are of the automatic-reset type, the
bimetallic breaker contacts automatically close (completing
the circuit) once they have cooled down from the initial overload. If the overload condition still exists, the breaker contacts
will again open to interrupt current flow. This cycling effect, or
opening and closing of the breaker contacts, continues as
long as the current circuit overload condition exists.
7-43
ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS
GENERAL
The following table provides a brief description of the connectors found on the S1 Lightning. Approximate locations of each
connector are shown in Figure 7-46.
Connector numbers are listed in [brackets] in this manual.
Table 7-5. Electrical Connectors
CONNECTOR
NUMBER
7-44
DESCRIPTION
COMPONENT(S)
ALSO SEE
[P1]
4-place Amp Multilock
right handlebar switch housingignition power, module and starter
page 7-39
[P2]
2-place Amp Multilock
front brake switch
page 7-51
[P3]
12-place Amp Multilock
instruments and indicator lamps
page 7-51
[P4]
4-place Amp Multilock
headlamp
page 7-34
[P5]
2-place Amp Multilock
clutch switch
page 7-21
[P6]
8-place Amp Multilock
left handlebar switch housinghorn, turn signals, lights
page 7-40
[P7]
2-place Deutsch
vacuum-operated electric switch
page 7-10
[P8]
4-place PED
ignition/headlamp switch
page 7-12
[P9]
4-slot fuse block
four 15 amp fuses for ignition,
instruments, lights and accessories
page 7-43
[P10]
8-place Deutsch
ignition module
page 7-13
[P11]
8-place Amp Multilock
tail lamp and rear turn signals
page 7-36
[P12]
4-place relay
ignition relay
page 7-22
[P13]
4-place relay
starter relay
page 7-22
[P14]
2-place Amp Multilock
side stand switch
page 7-21
[P15]
2-place Amp Multilock
license plate light
page 7-36
[P16]
3-place Deutsch
timer and pickup
page 7-13
[P17]
2-place plug
voltage regulator
page 7-31
b0222x7x
28
NOTE
Only three wires are used to connect the tail lamp
(28). See TAIL LAMP, ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
on page 7-35.
27
Approximate diode location.
See DIODES on page 7-21.
26
29
22
25
24
20 19
21
23
18
17
16
15
14
30
13
31
12
11
1
2
3
10
6
4
8
5
7
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Voltage regulator/stator [P17]
Starter relay [P13]
Timer and pickup [P16]
Battery positive cable
Starter
Left handlebar switch
housing [P6]
7. Oil pressure switch
8. Neutral indicator switch
9. Right front turn signal
10. Left front turn signal
11. Right handlebar switch
housing [P1]
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
Brake switch [P2]
Vacuum switch [P7]
Horn power wire
Horn ground
Ignition coil
Instruments [P3]
Headlamp [P4]
Clutch switch [P5]
Ignition switch [P8]
Ignition relay [P12]
Master circuit breaker
Battery negative cable
Turn signal flasher
9
25. Ignition module [P10]
26. Tail lamp and turn
signals [P11]
27. Rear right turn signal
28. Tail lamp
29. Rear left turn signal
30. Fuse block
31. Rear brake lamp switch
Figure 7-46. Wiring Harness
7-45
DEUTSCH ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS
GENERAL
b0070x3x
The Deutsch Connector features a superior seal to protect
electrical contacts from dirt and moisture in harsh environments. The connector also provides better pin retention than
previous connectors.
REMOVING/INSTALLING SOCKETS
1.
2.
3.
4.
●
●
See Figure 7-47. Remove the secondary locking
wedge (6). Insert the blade of a small screwdriver
between the socket housing and locking wedge inline
with the groove (inline with the pin holes if the groove is
absent). Turn the screwdriver 90° to pop the wedge up
Gently depress terminal latches inside socket housing
(3) and back out socket terminals (1) through holes in
rear wire seal (2).
Fit rear wire seal (2) into back of socket housing, if
removed. Grasp socket terminal approximately 1 in.
(25.4 mm) behind the contact barrel. Gently push sockets through holes in wire seal into their respective chambers. Feed socket into chamber until it “clicks” in place.
Verify that socket will not back out of chamber; a slight
tug on the wire will confirm that it is properly locked in
place.
Install internal seal (5) on lip of socket housing, if
removed. Insert tapered end of secondary locking wedge
(6) into socket housing and press down until it snaps in
place. The wedge fits into the center groove within the
socket housing and holds the terminal latches tightly
closed.
NOTE
The conical secondary locking wedge of the 3-pin connector must be installed with the arrow pointing toward
the external latch. See Figure 7-48.
If the secondary locking wedge does not slide into the
installed position easily, verify that all terminals are fully
installed in the socket housing. The lock indicates when
terminals are not properly installed by not entering its
fully installed position.
7-46
7
6
10
5
9
Three and eight pin connectors are of similar construction
with one exception: eight pin connectors use two external
latches on the socket side.
NOTE
The DEUTSCH TERMINAL CRIMP TOOL (Part No. HD39965) is used to install Deutsch pin and socket terminals on
wires. If new terminals must be installed, follow the instructions included with the crimping tool or see CRIMPING
INSTRUCTIONS on page 7-47.
8
11
4
2
1
3
Socket Side
Pin Side
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Socket terminal
Wire seal
Socket housing
External latch
Internal seal
Secondary locking
wedge
Secondary locking
wedge
8. Latch cover
9. Pin housing
10. Wire seal
11. Pin terminal
Figure 7-47. 3-Pin Connector
REMOVING/INSTALLING PINS
1.
See Figure 7-47. Remove the secondary locking wedge
(7). Use the hooked end of a stiff piece of mechanic’s
wire or a needle nose pliers, whichever is most suitable.
2.
Gently depress terminal latches inside pin housing (9)
and back out pin terminals (11) through holes in wire seal
(10).
3.
Fit wire seal (10) into back of pin housing (9). Grasp
crimped pin approximately 1 in. (25.4 mm) behind the
contact barrel. Gently push pins through holes in wire
seal into their respective numbered locations. Feed pin
into chamber until it “clicks” in place. Verify that pin will
not back out of chamber; a slight tug on the wire will confirm that it is properly locked in place.
4.
Insert tapered end of secondary locking wedge (7) into
pin housing (9) and press down until it snaps in place.
The wedge fits in the center groove within the pin housing and holds the terminal latches tightly closed.
ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION
Insert socket housing (3) into pin housing (9) until it snaps in
place. To fit the halves of the connector together, the latch (4)
on the socket side must be aligned with the latch cover (8) on
the pin side.
CRIMPING INSTRUCTIONS
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
x0014x7x
See Figure 7-49. Squeeze the handles to cycle the
DEUTSCH TERMINAL CRIMP TOOL (Part No. HD39965) to the fully open position.
Raise locking bar by pushing up on bottom flange. With
the crimp tails facing upward and the rounded side of the
contact barrel resting on the concave split level area of
the crimp tool, insert contact (socket/pin) through middle
hole of locking bar.
Release locking bar to lock position of contact. If the
crimp tails are slightly out of vertical alignment, the crimp
tool automatically rotates the contact so that the tails
face straight upward. When correctly positioned, the locking bar fits snugly in the space between the contact band
and the core crimp tails.
Strip lead removing 5/32 in. (4.0 mm) of insulation. Insert
wires between crimp tails until ends make contact with
locking bar. Verify that wire is positioned so that short
pair of crimp tails squeeze bare wire strands, while long
pair folds over insulation material.
Pin
housing
Arrow points to
external latch
Socket
housing
Figure 7-48. 3-pin Locking Wedge Orientation
Squeeze handle of crimp tool until tightly closed. Tool
automatically opens when the crimping sequence is
complete. Raise up locking bar and remove contact.
NOTE
Inspect the quality of the core and insulation crimps. Distortion should be minimal.
1.
Insert contact through middle
hole of locking bar.
2.
Insert stripped lead until it
contacts locking bar.
3.
Close and squeeze crimp tool.
Locking bar
4.
Raise locking bar and
remove contact.
5.
Inspect quality of core and
insulation crimps.
Core crimp
Insulation crimp
x0007b7x
Figure 7-49. Deutsch Crimping Procedure
7-47
AMP MULTILOCK ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS
REMOVING SOCKET/PIN
TERMINALS
5.
1.
If necessary, cut any surrounding cable straps to gain
access to the connector.
2.
See Figure 7-50. Depress the button on the socket terminal side of the connector (plug) and pull apart the pin and
socket halves.
3.
Bend back the latch slightly and free one side of secondary lock, then repeat the step to release the other side.
Rotate the secondary lock outward on hinge to access
terminals in chambers of connector housing.
4.
Looking in the terminal side of the connector (opposite
the secondary lock), take note of the cavity next to each
terminal.
See Figure 7-51. With the flat edge against the terminal,
insert the pick (Snap-On TT600-3) into the cavity until it
stops. Pivot the end of the pick away from the terminal
and gently tug on wire to pull terminal from chamber. Do
not tug on the wire until the tang is released or the terminal will be difficult to remove. A “click” is heard if the tang
is engaged but then inadvertently released. Repeat the
step without releasing the tang.
NOTE
An AMP TERMINAL CRIMP TOOL (Part No. HD-41609) is
used to install Amp Multilock pin and socket terminals on
wires. If new terminals must be installed, see CRIMPING
INSTRUCTIONS on page 7-50.
f1292x2x
Secondary lock open
Pin terminal
Latch
Button
Secondary lock open
Latch
Pin housing
Socket housing
Latch
Secondary lock open
Figure 7-50. Amp Multilock Connector (Exploded View)
7-48
Socket terminal
INSTALLING SOCKET/PIN
TERMINALS
NOTE
For wire location purposes, numbers are stamped into the
secondary locks of both the socket and pin housings.
terminal (on the side opposite the crimp tails) must face
downward. On the socket side, tangs are at the top of each
chamber, so the socket terminal slot (on the same side as the
crimp tails) must face upward. Up and down can be determined by the position of the release button (used to separate
the pin and socket halves), the button always being the top of
the connector.
1.
2.
Gently tug on wire end to verify that the terminal is locked
in place and will not back out of chamber.
3.
Rotate the hinged secondary lock inward until tabs fully
engage latches on both sides of connector.
4.
Insert the socket housing (plug) into the pin housing
(receptacle) until it snaps in place.
5.
Secure wiring harness with new cable straps.
See Figure 7-51. From the secondary lock side of the
connector, insert the terminal into its respective numbered chamber until it snaps in place. For proper fit, the
slot in the terminal must face the tang in the chamber.
NOTE
The tang in the chamber engages the slot to lock the terminal
in position. On the pin side of the connector, tangs are positioned at the bottom of each chamber, so the slot in the pin
f1289x2x
Secondary lock open
4
Socket housing
Socket terminal
2
Pick tool
1
3
Secondary lock open
4
Pin terminal
1
2
Pick tool
3
Pin housing
1.
2.
3.
4.
Open secondary lock.
Insert pick into cavity on mating end of connector.
Pivot end of pick to release tang.
Gently tug on wire to remove terminal from housing.
Figure 7-51. Release Tang and Back Out Terminals
7-49
CRIMPING INSTRUCTIONS
1.
See Figure 7-53. Squeeze the handles to cycle the AMP
TERMINAL CRIMP TOOL (Part No. HD-41609) to the
fully open position.
2.
Raise locking bar by pushing up on bottom flange. With
the crimp tails facing upward, insert contact (socket/pin)
through locking bar, so that the closed side of the contact
rests on the nest (concave split level area) of the crimp
tool). Use the front nest for 20 gauge wire, the middle for
16 gauge and the rear for 18 gauge.
3.
Release locking bar to lock position of contact. When
correctly positioned, the locking bar fits snugly in the
space at the front of the core crimp tails.
4.
Strip lead removing 5/32 in. (4.0 mm) of insulation. Insert
wires between crimp tails until ends make contact with
locking bar. Verify that wire is positioned so that short
pair of crimp tails squeeze bare wire strands, while long
pair folds over insulation material.
5.
Squeeze handle of crimp tool until tightly closed. Tool
automatically opens when the crimping sequence is
complete. Raise up locking bar and remove contact.
6.
See Figure 7-52. Inspect the quality of the core and insulation crimps. Distortion should be minimal.
b0238x7x
1.
Raise locking bar and
seat contact on nest of
crimp tool. Release
locking tool.
2.
Insert stripped lead
until it contacts locking
bar.
3.
Close and
crimp tool.
4.
Raise locking bar and
remove contact
b0239x7x
1
2
Pin terminal
3
squeeze
4
1
1.
2.
3.
4.
2
3
4
Socket terminal
Insulation crimp tail
Core crimp tail
Locking groove bar
Tang slot
Figure 7-52. Crimps
7-50
Figure 7-53. Amp Multilock Crimping Procedure
b0245x7x
BN
BK
RIGHT
TURN
FLASHER
VACUUM SWITCH
OIL
PRESSURE
TIMER AND PICKUP
BK
BK
O/W
HIGH BEAM
W
BK
LEFT TURN
V
BK
P7
2 1
BK
R/W
Y/BK
HORN
V/BN
TN
O
BK
V/W
NEUTRAL
BK
V/W
GN/W
PK
R/W
BK/W
W/BK
SPEEDOMETER
ELECTRONIC IGNITION
GN/Y
O
O/W
BK/W
R/Y
GN/Y
TN
GN/W
BE
W/R
GN/BK
Y/O
GY
W/BK
W/BK
BK/R
1
2
3
4
P2
ACC POWER
O/W
TO STOPLIGHT R/Y
O/W
W/GN
BK
O
PK
TACHOMETER
O/W
R/Y
1
2
P10
R/Y
BK
V/W
GN/W
PK
R/W
BK/W
W/BK
P1
IGN POWER
IGN MODULE
FROM (2)
TO STARTER
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
A B C
P16
NEUTRAL
SWITCH
P3
12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
OIL PRESSURE
SWITCH
REAR
STOPLIGHT
SWITCH
O/W
BK
BK
O
GN/Y
TN
PK
O
V
W
BN
BRAKE SWITCH
S8
BK
P14
RIGHT FRONT
TURN SIGNAL
R/BK
BN
BE
BK
TN/W
2 1
BK W
BN
BK
S6
RIGHT REAR
TURN SIGNAL
LT.BE
BE
SIDE STAND
SWITCH
POSITION LMP
HIGH BEAM
LOW BEAM
LMP GROUND
O/W
W
Y
BK
1
2
3
4
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
BN
O/W
V
BK
BK
R/Y
P4
O/W
W
Y
BK
S9
BK
BN
O/W
V
BK
BK
R/Y
BK
R/Y
P11
BK
O/W
S2
P15
BE
BK
S4
HEADLAMP
1
2
BE
BK
Y
BK
LICENSE PLATE
LIGHT
LEFT FRONT
TURN SIGNAL
LT.BE
S1
S5
V
BE
TN
S3
V
BK
BK
S13
S11
TN
S10
MASTER
30A CIRCUIT
BREAKER
Y
W
BE
BN
V
V/BN
Y/BK
O/W
BK
S7
TN/GN
S14
GN
TN/W
GY
R
R/GY
R/BK
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
S15
TN/GN
BK
P13
PK
TN/W
P8
CLUTCH SWITCH
PK
VIEW FROM FUSE
INSERTION SIDE
P12
W/BK
TN/GN
BK/R
R
R/GY
R/B K
1
2
A
B
C
D
P5
FROM IGN RLY R/BE
TO GROUND
BK
BK
R
TN/GN
P6
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
LEFT REAR
TURN SIGNAL
R/BK
BE
MAIN CHASSIS GROUND
S12
TN/GN
TN/GN
LOW BEAM
W
HIGH BEAM
BK
LIGHT POWER
BN
RIGHT TURN
LT BE
LEFT TURN
O
FROM FLASHER
BE
HORN
GN
HORN POWER
GY
TAIL LAMP
GN
BK
BK
COIL
BK
IGNITION
GY/O
R/BK
15A
LT.BE
COLOR CODE:
BE
BLUE
GY
GRAY
R/BK
LIGHT BLUE
TN
GY/O
TAN
BK
BLACK
O
ORANGE
V
VIOLET
BN
BROWN
PK
PINK
W
WHITE
GN
GREEN
R
RED
Y
YELLOW
REAR PLUG
GY/O
NO CONNECTION
CONNECTION
GY/O
XX
XX
STRIPE COLOR
PIN CONNECTOR
SOCKET CONNECTOR
P17
R/BK
15A
86
DIODE
1 2
INSTRUMENTS
O
FRONT PLUG
85
87
TN/W
TN/W
LIGHTS
R/BK
86
BK/R
BE
TN/GN
87
R/BK
GN
KEY SWITCH
30
ACCESSORIES
O/W
O/W
85
BK
15A
GY
30
87A
CABLE COLOR
O
GY/O
R/GY
87A
15A
R/BK
BK
IGN
IGNITION RELAY
FUSE BLOCK
P9
STARTER RELAY
R/GY
R
OFF
LOCK
BATTERY
STATOR
1996 BUELL S1-LIGHTNING WIRING DIAGRAM
3/28/96
7-51
Figure 7-54. 1996 S1 Lightning Wiring Diagram
A
APPENDIX A–TOOLS
Part No. B-35316-5 12 Inch Bolt.
Used with Part No. HD-39302.
Part No. B-41177 Front Fork Holding Tool
Part No. B-41174 Rear Wheel Support Stand and
Part No. B-41174-2 Replacement Pad
Part No. B-41178-A Rear Shock Compressing Tool
Part No. B-41175 Pivot Shaft Bearing Adjuster
Part No. B-41395 Front Wheel Support Stand and
Part No. B-41686 S1 Lift Adapter
Part No. B-41176 Front Fork Bushing/Seal Installer
Part No. B-42079 Brake Caliper Piston Remover
A-1
A-2
Part No. B-59000A Pro Level Oil Gauge
Part No. HD-25070 Robinair Heat Gun
Part No. HD-01289 Rim Protectors
Part No. HD-28700 Tire Bead Expander
Part No. HD-21000 Tire Spreader
Part No. HD-33067 Wheel Bearing Packer
Part No. HD-23738 Vacuum Pump
Part No. HD-33223-1 Cylinder Compression Gauge
Part No. HD-33413 Carburetor Idle Adjustment Tool
Part No. HD-33813 Inductive Timing Light
Part No. HD-33416 Universal Driver Handle
Part No. HD-34623A Piston Pin Retaining Ring Installer
Part No. HD-33418 Universal Puller Forcing Screw
Part No. HD-34643A Shoulderless Valve Guide
Seal Installer
Part No. HD-33446A Cylinder Torque Plates
and Torque Plate Bolts Part No. HD-33446-86
Part No. HD-34723 Valve Guide Hone (8 mm)
A-3
Part No. HD-34731 Shoulderless Valve Guide
Installation Tool
Part No. HD-34813 Rowe Flywheel Rebuilding Jig
Part No. HD-34736B Valve Spring Compressor
Part No. HD-34816 Oil Pressure Switch Wrench
Part No. HD-34740 Driver Handle and Remover. Used with
HD-34643A and HD-34731.
Part No. HD-35102 Wrist Pin Bushing Hone (20 mm)
Part No. HD-34751 Nylon Valve Guide Brush
Part No. HD-35316-A Main Drive Gear Remover/Installer
and Main Drive Gear Bearing Installer
A-4
CYLINDER LEAKDOWN TESTER
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knsdl hlno hslnslnnsdl hlno hso[bho
knsdl hlno hslnslp pffb
odlbndpob npond bndb ndbno[bho
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hlno hslnslp
CYLINDER LEAKDOWN TESTER
Bdhgkjsbkdv ' ksjjlkn lk
knsdl hlno hslnsln nlslns finbp pffb
odlbndpob nponno[bho
knsdl hlno hslnsln nlslns finbp pklhb
odlbndpob npdb ndbno[bho
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Part No. HD-35381 Belt Tension Gauge
Part No. HD-35667 Cylinder Leakdown Tester
Part No. HD-35457 Black Light Leak Detector
Part No. HD-35758 Neway Valve Seat Cutter Set
Part No. HD-35500A Digital Multi-Meter (FLUKE 23)
Part No. HD-35801 Intake Manifold Screw Wrench
Part No. HD-35518 Internal/External
Retaining Ring Pliers
Part No. HD-37047A Sprocket Bearing/Seal Installer
A-5
Part No. HD-37404 Countershaft Gear Support Plate
Part No. HD-38125-8 Packard Terminal Crimp Tool
Part No. HD-37842A Inner/Outer Main Drive Gear
Needle Bearing Installer
Part No. HD-38361 Cam Gear Gauge Pin Set
(0.108 in. (2.74 mm) Diameter)
Part No. HD-38125-6 Packard Terminal Crimp Tool
(Sealed and non-sealed connectors)
Part No. HD-38362 Sprocket Locking Link
Part No. HD-38125-7 Packard Terminal Crimp Tool
(Sealed connectors)
Part No. HD-38515-A Clutch Spring Compressing Tool
and Part No. HD-38515-91 Forcing Screw
A-6
13
40
SP
OR
TS
TE
R
CC
Part No. HD-38871 Camshaft Bushing Plate Pilot
and Reamer
Part No. HD-39458 Sprocket Shaft Bearing Outer
Race Installer
Part No. HD-39151 Shift Drum Retaining Ring Installer
Part No. HD-39565 Engine Sound Probe
Part No. HD-39301A Steering Head Bearing
Race Remover
Part No. HD-39617 Inductive Amp Probe.
Use with HD-35500A.
Part No. HD-39302 Steering Head Bearing
Race Installer
Part No. HD-39621 Electrical Terminal Repair Kit
A-7
A-8
Part No. HD-39621-27 Socket Terminal Remover
Part No. HD-39800 Oil Filter Crusher, Small
Part No. HD-39621-28 Pin Terminal Remover
Part No. HD-39823 Oil Filter Crusher, Large
Part No. HD-39782 Cylinder Head Support
Part No. HD-39847 Universal Ratcheting Tap/
Reamer Handle
Part No. HD-39786 Cylinder Head Holding Fixture
Part No. HD-39932 (Steel) or HD-39932-CAR (Carbide)
Intake and Exhaust Valve Guide Reamer
Part No. HD-39964 Reamer Lubricant (Cool Tool)
Part No. HD-41025 Tool Organizational System
Part No. HD-39965 Deutsch Terminal Crimp Tool
Part No. HD-41137 Hose Clamp Pliers
Part No. HD-39969 Ultra-Torch UT-100
Part No. HD-41155 VHS Video Shelf
Part No. HD-39994 Paint Repair Kit
Part No. HD-41183 Shrink Attachment
A-9
A-10
Part No. HD-41185 Hose Cutting Tool
Part No. HD-41496 Main Drive Gear Seal Installer
Part No. HD-41185-1 Oil Hose Cutter
Part No. HD-41506 Crankshaft Locking Tool
Part No. HD-41215 Oil Filter Wrench
Part No. HD-41609 Amp Terminal Crimp Tool
Part No. HD-41321 Sprocket Holding Tool
Part No. HD-41675 Oil Pressure Sending Unit Wrench
600
200
Made in USA
PP-9606- 0001
Part No. HD-42376 Battery/Charging System
Load Tester
Part No. HD-94803-67 Rear Intake Camshaft
Bushing Reamer
Part No. HD-94547-101 Crankshaft Bearing Outer Race
Remover/Installer
Part No. HD-94804-57 Rocker Arm Bushing Reamer
Part No. HD-94660-37B Mainshaft Locknut Wrench
Part No. HD-94812-1 Pinion Shaft Bushing Reamer.
Use with HD-94812-87.
Part No. HD-94800-26A Connecting Rod Bushing
Reamers and Pilots
Part No. HD-94812-87 Pinion Shaft Reamer Pilot.
Use with HD-94812-1.
A-11
Part No. HD-95017-61 Large External Retaining
Ring Pliers
Part No. HD-95952-33A Connecting Rod
Clamping Tool
Part No. HD-95635-46 All-Purpose Claw Puller
Part No. HD-95970-32C Piston Pin Bushing Tool
Part No. HD-95637-46A Wedge Attachment for
Claw Puller. Use with HD-95635-46.
Part No. HD-96215-49 Small Internal Retaining
Ring Pliers
Part No. HD-95760-69A Bushing/Bearing Puller Tool Set.
Set includes items 1-7. Items 8 (HD-95769-69), 9 (HD95770-69) and 10 (HD-95771-69) are optional.
Part No. HD-96295-65D Timing Mark View Plug.
Use with HD-33813.
A-12
Part No. HD-96333-51B Piston Ring Compressor
Part No. HD-96718-87 Pinion Bearing Outer Race
Lapping Kit
Part No. HD-96550-36A Valve Lapping Tool
Part No. HD-96740-36 Connecting Rod Lapping Arbor
Part No. HD-96650-80 Flywheel Truing Stand
Part No. HD-96796-47 Valve Spring Tester
Part No. HD-96710-40B Crankcase Main Bearing
Lapping Tool
Part No. HD-96921-52A Oil Pressure Gauge
A-13
Part No. HD-96940-52A Oil Pressure Gauge Adapter.
Use with HD-96921-52A.
Part No. HD-99500-80 Wheel Truing
and Balancing Stand
Part No. HD-97087-65B Hose Clamp Pliers
Part No. J-5586 Transmission Shaft
Retaining Ring Pliers
Part No. HD-97292-61 Two Claw Puller
A-14
APPENDIX B–METRIC CONVERSIONS
<B=1>
Table B-1. Metric Conversions
MILLIMETERS to INCHES
(mm x 0.03937 = inches)
mm
in. mm
in. mm
INCHES to MILLIMETERS
(inches x 25.40 = mm)
in. mm
in. in.
mm in.
mm in.
mm in.
mm
15.240 1 15/16
49.21 3 5/16
84.14
.1
.0039 25
.9842 58
2.283
91
3.582 .001
.025 .6
.2
.0078 26
1.024 59
2.323
92
3.622 .002
.051
5/8
15.875 2
50.80 3 3/8
85.72
.3
.0118 27
1.063 60
2.362
93
3.661 .003
.076
11/16
17.462 2 1/16
52.39 3.4
86.36
.4
.0157 28
1.102 61
2.401
94
3.701 .004
.102 .7
17.780 2.1
53.34 3 7/16
87.31
.5
.0197 29
1.142 62
2.441
95
3.740 .005
.127
19.050 2 1/8
53.97 3 1/2
88.90
.6
.0236 30
1.181 63
2.480
96
3.779 .006
.152 .8
20.320 2 3/16
55.56 3 9/16
90.49
.7
.0275 31
1.220 64
2.519
97
3.819 .007
.178
13/16
20.638 2.2
55.88 3.6
91.44
.8
.0315 32
1.260 65
2.559
98
3.858 .008
.203
7/8
22.225 2 1/4
57.15 3 5/8
92.07
.9
.0354 33
1.299 66
2.598
99
3.897 .009
.229 .9
22.860 2.3
58.42 3 11/16
93.66
.0394 34
1.338 67
2.638 100
3.937 .010
.254
23.812 2 5/16
58.74 3.7
93.98
1
1/64
3/4
15/16
.397 1
25.40
2 3/8
60.32 3 3/4
95.25
4.016 .020
.508 1 1/16
26.99
2.4
60.96 3.8
96.52
2.756 103
4.055 .030
.762 1.1
27.94
2 7/16
61.91 3 13/16
96.84
1.496 71
2.795 104
4.094 1/32
.794 1 1/8
28.57
2 1/2
63.50 3 7/8
98.42
.2362 39
1.535 72
2.834 105
4.134 .040
1.016 1 3/16
30.16
2 9/16
65.09 3.9
99.06
7
.2756 40
1.575 73
2.874 106
4.173 .050
1.270 1.2
30.48
2.6
66.04 3 15/16 100.01
8
.3149 41
1.614 74
2.913 107
4.212 .060
1.524 1 1/4
31.75
2 5/8
66.67 4
101.6
9
.3543 42
1.653 75
2.953 108
4.252 1/16
1.588 1.3
33.02
2 11/16
68.26 4 1/16
102.19
10
.3937 43
1.693 76
2.992 109
4.291 .070
1.778 1 5/16
33.34
2.7
68.58 4.1
104.14
11
.4331 44
1.732 77
3.031 110
4.331 .080
2.032 1 3/8
34.92
2 3/4
69.85 4 1/8
104.77
12
.4724 45
1.772 78
3.071 111
4.370 .090
2.286 1.4
35.56
2.8
71.12 4 3/16
106.36
13
.5118 46
1.811 79
3.110 112
4.409 .1
2.540 1 7/16
36.51
2 13/16
71.44 4.2
106.68
3.175 1 1/2
38.10
2 7/8
73.02 4 1/4
107.95
2
.0787 35
1.378 68
2.677 101
3.976
3
.1181 36
1.417 69
2.716 102
4
.1575 37
1.456 70
5
.1968 38
6
1/8
14
.5512 47
1.850 80
3.149 113
4.449
15
.5905 48
1.890 81
3.189 114
4.488 3/16
4.762 1 9/16
39.69
2.9
73.66 4.3
109.22
16
.6299 49
1.929 82
3.228 115
4.527 .2
5.080 1.6
40.64
2 15/16
74.61 4 5/16
109.54
17
.6693 50
1.968 83
3.268 116
4.567 1/4
6.350 1 5/8
41.27
3
76.20 4 3/8
111.12
18
.7086 51
2.008 84
3.307 117
4.606 .3
7.620 1 11/16 42.86
3 1/16
77.79 4.4
111.76
19
.7480 52
2.047 85
3.346 118
4.645 5/16
7.938 1.7
43.18
3.1
78.74 4 7/16
112.71
9.525 1 3/4
44.45
3 1/8
79.37 4 1/2
114.30
45.72
3 3/16
80.96 4 9/16
115.89
11.112 1 13/16 46.04
3.2
81.28 4.6
116.84
12.700 1 7/8
47.62
3 1/4
82.55 4 5/8
117.47
14.288 1.9
48.26
3.3
83.82 4 11/16 119.06
3/8
20
.7874 53
2.086 86
3.386 119
4.685
21
.8268 54
2.126 87
3.425 120
4.724 .4
7/16
22
.8661 55
2.165 88
3.464 121
4.764
23
.9055 56
2.205 89
3.504 122
4.803 1/2
24
.9449 57
2.244 90
3.543 123
4.842
9/16
10.160 1.8
B-1
FASTENER TORQUE VALUES
Torque specifications for specific components are listed in each
section at the point of use. When converting to Newton-meters,
use the formulas given under the metric chart. For all other
steel fasteners, use the values listed in one of the tables below.
In the English table, torque figures are listed in ft-lbs, except
those marked with an asterisk (*), which are listed in in-lbs. In
the metric table, figures are listed in Newton-meters.
B-2
1WARNING
The quality fasteners used on Buell motorcycles have
specific strength, finish and type requirements to
perform properly in the assembly and the operating
environment. Use only genuine Buell replacement
fasteners tightened to the proper torque. Substitution
could cause fastener failure, which may result in vehicle
damage and/or personal injury.
Table B-2. English Torque Values
FASTENER
BODY SIZE OR OUTSIDE DIAMETER
MINIMUM
TENSILE
STRENGTH
MATERIAL
SAE 2
STEEL
74,000
PSI
LOW
CARBON
SAE 5
STEEL
120,000
PSI
MEDIUM
CARBON HEAT
TREAT
SAE 7
STEEL
133,000
PSI
SAE 8
STEEL
TYPE
2
3
# (number)
4
5
6
8
in. (inches)
1/2
9/16
5/8
3/4
7/8
1
32
47
69
96
155
206
310
33
54
78
114
154
257
382
587
25
44
71
110
154
215
360
570
840
14
29
47
78
119
169
230
380
600
900
14
29
47
78
119
169
230
380
600
900
70*
140*
18
29
43
63
100
146
22.2
25.4
1/4
5/16
3/8
7/16
6
12
20
10
19
MEDIUM
CARBON
ALLOY
13
150,000
PSI
MEDIUM
CARBON
ALLOY
SAE 8
STEEL
150,000
PSI
MEDIUM
CARBON
ALLOY
SOCKET
SET
SCREW
212,000
PSI
HIGH CARBON
QUENCHED
TEMPERED
14*
9*
STUDS
16*
10
22*
30*
Use SAE 2, 5 and 8 values when grade is known, with nut of sufficient strength.
*Torque values in in-lbs.
Table B-3. Metric Torque Values
FASTENER
TYPE
MINIMUM
TENSILE
STRENGTH
MATERIAL
SAE 2
STEEL
5,202
kg/cm2
LOW
CARBON
SAE 5
STEEL
8,436
kg/cm2
MEDIUM
CARBON HEAT
TREAT
SAE 7
STEEL
9,350
kg/cm2
SAE 8
STEEL
2
3
# (number)
4
5
6
8
BODY SIZE OR OUTSIDE DIAMETER
mm (millimeters)
10
6.4
7.9
9.5
11.1 12.7 14.3 15.9
8.3
16.6
27.7
44.3
65.0
132.8 214.4 283.5
428.7
13.8
26.3
45.6
74.7
107.9 157.7 213.0 355.4 528.3
811.8
MEDIUM
CARBON
ALLOY
18.0
34.6
60.8
98.2
152.1 213.0 297.3 497.9 788.3 1161.7
10,545
kg/cm2
MEDIUM
CARBON
ALLOY
19.4
40.1
65.0
107.9 164.6 233.7 318.1 525.5 829.8 1220.0
SAE 8
STEEL
10,545
kg/cm2
MEDIUM
CARBON
ALLOY
19.4
40.1
65.0
107.9 164.6 233.7 318.1 525.5 829.8 1220.0
SOCKET
SET
SCREW
14,904
kg/cm2
HIGH CARBON
QUENCHED
TEMPERED
8.1
16.1
24.9
40.1
STUDS
foot-pounds (ft-lbs)
x 1.356 = Newton-meters (Nm)
1.6
1.0
1.8
2.5
3.4
59.5
95.4
19.1
87.1
138.3 201.9
Use SAE 2, 5 and 8 values when grade is known, with nut of sufficient strength.
inch-pounds
(in-lbs) x 0.113 = Newton-meters (Nm)
B-3
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Adobe Acrobat Reader Online Guide
This online guide contains information to help you use the Acrobat Reader program. For installation instructions and system requirements, see the README
file accompanying your software. Click one of the following topics to go to an
explanation of that topic:
How to use this online guide
About Adobe Acrobat
The Acrobat Reader window
Status bar
Preferences
Using links
Using notes
Displaying documents in full-screen mode
Reading an article
How to upgrade
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How to use this online guide
Use these procedures to navigate through this guide:
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Distiller setu
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Compres
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About Adobe Acrobat
The Adobe Acrobat product family consists of three products designed to bring
electronic document solutions to a wide-range of users:
• Acrobat 2.0 – all the software a business user requires for creating electronic
documents from common applications. Included in Acrobat 2.0 are Acrobat
Exchange and PDF Writer for creating electronic documents. New in Acrobat
2.0 is Acrobat Search for full-text searches of indexed PDF files. Also includes
the Acrobat Reader for Macintosh, Windows, DOS and UNIX.
• Acrobat Pro – Acrobat 2.0 plus Acrobat Distiller. Acrobat Distiller converts
any PostScript language file into PDF. Set up Acrobat Distiller to convert PostScript files on a local Macintosh or Windows computer, or to monitor directories
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The Acrobat Reader window
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Status bar fields and controls
Tools and buttons
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Tools and buttons
The tool bar contains tools for selecting and viewing documents. Select a tool
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Use the zoom tools to magnify and reduce the page display by a
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Click the Fit Width button to scale the page width to fill the width of the
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The find tool searches for part of a word, a complete word, or
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Status bar fields and controls
The status bar contains the following fields and controls:
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Preferences
The Preferences items in the Edit menu allow you to set preferences that affect
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Displaying documents in full-screen mode
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Using links
Creators of PDF documents can create hypertext links that connect two parts of
a document. Links can also connect part of a PDF document to another PDF
document or to another application file, such as a spreadsheet or movie.
To use a link:
Click any text or graphics that is identified as a hypertext link. The pointer
changes to a pointing finger when positioned over a link.
To return from a link:
Click Go Back or choose Go Back from the View menu to return to the previous
page view.
12
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Using notes
When you encounter a note in a PDF document, double-click it to open the note
window. To find the next note in the document, choose Find Next Note from the
Tools menu.
To close the note window, click the close box in the upper left corner of the note
(Macintosh users can also press Command-W).
13
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Reading an article
Creators of PDF documents can define document articles that automatically
guide readers through sections of a document.
To read an article:
Select Articles from the View menu (the menu item is dimmed if no articles
exist in the document). The Articles dialog box appears.
Select the article you want to read from the title list and click View to go directly
to the beginning of the article, or click the beginning of the article with the hand
tool. Place the hand tool cursor on any box in the article.
If you start at the first article box, the cursor changes to Read Article, and
the status bar shows Read Article.
Click or press Enter to follow the article.
To return to the previous view of the article:
Hold down the Shift key and click.
To return to the beginning of the article:
Hold down Option/Ctrl and click.
14
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To exit an article at any time:
• Select any navigation method other than pressing Enter or Return.
• Go to another article or page.
• Click +Shift + Option (Macintosh) or Shift +Ctrl + Click (Windows).
Note: If you exit an article by going to a specific page using Go To Page or the
toolbar buttons, the page is displayed with the Default Magnification preference setting. The magnification in effect while you read the article is not used.
15
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How to upgrade
You’re using Acrobat Reader to view a Portable Document Format file created
by someone else. But you can do much better with Acrobat 2.0 for just $195
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Print or fax the order form to 1-408-655-6096. Or mail the order form to:
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16
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Order Information
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Adobe, the Adobe logo and Acrobat are trademarks of Adobe Systems
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Copyright © 1994 Adobe Systems Incorporated. All rights reserved.
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 1994 Adobe Systems Incorporated. All rights reserved.
Adobe Acrobat Exchange 2.0 Online Guide
This manual, as well as the software described in it, is furnished under license and may be used or copied only in accordance with the terms of such license. The content of this manual is furnished for informational use only, is subject to
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of Adobe Systems Incorporated, which may be registered in certain jurisdictions. Microsoft is a registered trademark
and Windows is a trademark of Microsoft Corporation. Pentium is a trademark of Intel Corporation. All other products
or name brands are trademarks of their respective holders.
1994 This software includes software licensed from RSA Data Security, Inc.
Written and designed at Adobe Systems Incorporated, 1585 Charleston Road, Mountain View, CA 94039-7900 Adobe
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18
MAINTENANCE
General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1996 S1-Lightning Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Side Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fluid Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Regular Maintenance Intervals (table) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Engine Lubrication System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tires and Wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear Belt Deflection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Primary Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1-1
1-5
1-6
1-8
1-9
1-13
1-15
1-17
1-18
1-19
1-21
1-22
Rear Preload Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Suspension. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front Fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Spark Plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air Cleaner Filter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Carburetor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ignition Timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Vacuum-Operated Electrical Switch (V.O.E.S.) . . . . . . . .
Handlebars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Headlamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Storage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1-23
1-24
1-25
1-27
1-28
1-29
1-30
1-32
1-33
1-34
1-35
1-36
CHASSIS
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tire Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Vehicle Identification Number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Checking Cast Rim Runout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front Brake Master Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front Brake Caliper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front Brake Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear Brake Master Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear Brake Caliper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear Brake Line and Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Front Fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fork Stem and Bracket Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2-1
2-4
2-5
2-6
2-8
2-11
2-14
2-15
2-18
2-19
2-20
2-22
2-23
2-25
2-27
2-28
2-32
Swingarm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear Shock Absorber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Suspension Theory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Suspension Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Throttle Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Clutch Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Speedometer and Tachometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Handlebars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Exhaust System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Footrests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sprocket Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fenders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tail Section . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Windscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Side Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2-33
2-36
2-38
2-39
2-43
2-44
2-46
2-49
2-50
2-52
2-53
2-54
2-55
2-56
2-57
2-58
ENGINE
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Stripping Motorcycle For Engine Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Installing The Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cylinder Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cylinder and Piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Lubrication System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil Hose Routing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3-1
3-5
3-8
3-10
3-11
3-22
3-28
3-29
3-30
Oil Pressure Signal Light Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Crankcase Breathing System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oiling System (Color Foldout) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil Filter Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Valve Tappets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Gearcase Cover and Cam Gears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Crankcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3-31
3-32
3-33
3-34
3-37
3-38
3-40
3-48
FUEL SYSTEM
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-1
Carburetor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-2
Air Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-18
Fuel Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-20
Fuel Supply Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-22
Evaporative Emissions Control-California Models . . . . . 4-23
ELECTRIC STARTER
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-1
Electric Starter System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-2
Diagnostics/Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-9
Starter System Testing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-10
Starter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-11
Starter Solenoid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-18
DRIVE/TRANSMISSION
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Primary Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Secondary Drive Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Clutch Release Mechanism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Primary Drive/Clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6-1
6-3
6-6
6-8
6-9
6-10
6-14
Transmission Case . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Shifter Forks and Drum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mainshaft and Countershaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Main Drive Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Access Door Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Right Transmission Case Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Transmission Installation and Shifter Pawl Adjustment .
6-16
6-18
6-20
6-26
6-28
6-29
6-30
ELECTRICAL
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ignition System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Vacuum-Operated Electrical Switch (V.O.E.S.) . . . . . . . .
Ignition/Headlamp Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ignition Module . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ignition Sensor Plate and Rotor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Ignition Coil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Spark Plug Cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Starter Interlock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Charging System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Alternator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Voltage Regulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7-1
7-3
7-10
7-11
7-13
7-14
7-16
7-18
7-19
7-23
7-29
7-31
Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Headlamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tail Lamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Turn Signals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Turn Signal Flasher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Handlebar Switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Horn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Neutral Indicator Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuses and Circuit Breakers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Electrical Connectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Deutsch Electrical Connectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Amp Multilock Electrical Connectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7-32
7-33
7-35
7-37
7-38
7-39
7-41
7-42
7-43
7-44
7-46
7-48
1997 INFORMATION
Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Fuel System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1
11
17
19
Electric Starter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Drive/transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Electrical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
25
29
31
APPENDIX
Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A-1
Metric Conversion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B-1
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