French Country Cooking
French Country Cooking
Authentic Recipes from Every Region
180 delicious recipes from the foundations
of French gastronomy
F ra n ç o i s e B ra n g e t
t ra n s l a t e d fr o m t h e fre n c h b y
J ea n n e t t e Sea v er
ARCADE PUBLISHING • NEW YORK
Contents
Amuse Bouche: A Little Taste of What Is to Follow Notes from the American Editor and Translator 2
Copyright © 2011 by Le Cherche Midi Editeur
English-language translation copyright © 2012 by Jeannette Seaver
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10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available on file.
ISBN: 978-1-61145-693-6
Printed in China
1
Hare from the Mothers Blanc
Lièvre des mères Blanc 4
Bresse Chicken in Vin Jaune Sauce with Rutabaga Purée
Poulet de Bresse au vin jaune et purée de rutabagas au
comté 6
Maroilles Cheese Tart
Tarte au maroilles 7
Potato and Cream Pâté
Pâté bourbonnais aux pommes de terre 10
Lamb’s Feet and Stomach Parcels, Sisteron Style
Pieds et paquets 14
Two-Cheese Quenelles
Moines 16
Sheep Cheese and Potato Pastries
Tourtons du Champsaur “maison” à la tomme de brebis Chickpea Galette
Socca 20
Roasted Red Peppers in Olive Oil
Poivrons grillés 22
Pie of Swiss Chard, Apples, Pine Nuts, Raisins, and Cheese
Tourta de bléa 23
Baked Eggs with Morels
Oeufs cocotte aux morilles 24
Cream of Chestnut Soup
Cousina 25
Cooked Wilted Salad with Lardons and Fingerling Potatoes
Salade au lard ardennaise 28
Fricassée of Potatoes with Bacon
Cacasse à cul nu 29
Cabbage Soup with Smoked Pork and Sausage
Asinat ariégeois 30
17
Salmon Steamed over Cabbage
Saumon servi avec son chou 32
Castelnaudary Cassoulet
Cassoulet de Castelnaudary 33
Flan in a Pie Crust
Flaune aveyronnaise 36
Mashed Stockfish and Potatoes
Estofinado 38
Beef Stew Provençal
Daube provençale 39
Cod and Vegetables with Aioli
Cabillaud et légumes à l’aïoli 40
Traditional Provençal Bean and Vegetable Soup with Pesto
Soupe au pistou 42
Rock Lobster à l’Américaine
Langoustes à l’américaine 43
Monkfish in a Sauce of Normandy Apple Wine
Lotte au pommeau de Normandie 45
Galette of Andouille Sausage on a Bed of Braised Leeks
Andouille de Vire sur fondue de poireaux 46
Smashed Potatoes with Cheese and Lardons
Truffade 47
Snails in the Charente Manner
Cagouilles charentaises 51
Lamprey, Charente Style
Lamproie à la charentaise 52
Mussels in a Curry Sauce
Mouclade au Curry 53
Mussels from La Rochelle
Mouclade rochelaise 54
Champagne Oysters
Huîtres au champagne 56
Mamelie’s Bread Pudding
Gâteau de pain de Mamelie 57
Potato Dumplings
Farcidure corrézienne 60
Potato Galettes with Swiss Chard and Leek
Farcidure grillée du pays d’Égletons (Milhassou) 61
Potato Galettes with Swiss Chard and Leek 63
Stuffed Eggplant
Aubergines farcies à la bonifacienne 64
Quenelles of Swiss Chard and Cheese
Storzapreti 65
Oysters Stuffed and Baked in Lettuce with Tomato Coulis
Petits tian d’huîtres Nustrale 66
Snails in a Mustard Sauce
Escargots à la moutarde 68
Coq au Vin from Burgundy
Coq au pinot de Bourgogne 69
Eggs Poached in a Burgundy Wine Reduction
Oeufs en meurette 70
Burgundy Fish Soup
Pochouse 72
Gateau of Crepes with a Lemon Cream
Gâteau de crèpes au citron “Nathalie” 73
Hazelnut Cake
Gâteau creusois 77
Duck Pot-au-Feu and Cabbage Leaves Stuffed with Foie Gras
Pot-au-feu de canard et sa feuille de chou farcie au foie
gras 78
Morteau Sausage with Smoked Pork and Haricots Verts
Une recette toute simple avec la saucisse de Morteau 80
Montbéliard Sausage and Potatoes in Sauce
Pépéfier 81
Creamed Morels on Toast
Croûte aux morilles 82
Lamb’s Feet and Stomach Parcels, Crest Style
Défarde crestoise 84
Apricot Tart with Montélimar Nougat
Tarte à l’abricot et au nougat de Montélimar 85
Stuffed Turkey Escalopes in Cider and Cream
Paupiettes au cidre 88
Duck and Foie Gras Pâté from Chartres
Pâté de Chartres 89
Meat and Vegetable Soup with Boiled Bread Pudding
Kig ar farz de Plounévez-Lochrist 92
Breton Apple Cake
Far four 93
Lobster, Breton Style
Homard à l’armoricaine 94
Eggplant Caviar
Caviar d’aubergines 95
Stuffed Squid
Encornets farcis à la Yvette Laïck 96
Monkfish Stew from Le Grau-du-Roi
Bourride de lotte graulenne 97
Chicken and Vegetables with Red Pesto
Galinette au pistou rouge 99
Foie Gras in a Madeira Sauce
Escalopes de foie gras au madère 100
Filet of Lamb with Rosemary and Garlic
Canon d’agneau rôti au romarin et jus aillé 102
Gratin of White Asparagus
Gratin d’asperges du Blayais 103
Stuffed Calamari
Calamars farcis 106
Cuttlefish with Red Aioli
Rouille de seiche façon palavasienne 108
Offcuts in a Pot (Pie) (Stewed Scrapes, Soubès Style)
Entrée de Soubès 109
Broiled Lobster with Cream
Homard grillé sauce à la crème 110
Mashed Potato and Cheese Pie
Marianne 112
Pike in Beurre Blanc and Vouvray Sauce
Dos de sandre de Loire au beurre blanc, au vin de
Vouvray 113
Pike in Beurre Blanc and Vouvray Sauce 115
Foie Gras on Lacquered Pork with an Emulsion of Creamed
Celeriac
Foie gras poêlé sur rillons laqués, emulsion de crème de
céleri-rave 116
Heirloom Organic Chicken from the Touraine
Géline de Touraine 117
Meat and Mushroom Pie
Tourte muroise 118
Potato Gratin
Gratin dauphinois 119
Snails Vienne Style
Escargots à la viennoise 120
Trout with Vin Jaune Sauce
Truite au vin jaune 123
Chicken Slivers in Comté Cheese and White Wine Sauce “Val
d’Amour”
Émincé de poulet et sa sauce au comté et au vin blanc,
façon Val d’Amour 124
Cake from the Landes Country
Pastis landais 125
Pistachio Macaroons with a Raspberry Coulis
Macarons pistache framboise 126
Puff Pastry with Blue Cheese and Pear
Feuilleté à la fourme et poire 127
Fondue in a Fourme de Montbrison
Fondue à la Fourme de Montbrison 128
Salmon Filets with Sorrel
Escalopes de Saumon à l’oseille 130
Creamed Mushrooms
Marinière de charbonniers 131
Oysters Four Ways, from the Pays de Retz
Huitres des quatre saisons du pays de Retz 134
Praline Ice Cream
Glace “Au duc de Praslin” 135
Almond Cake
Pithiviers fondant 136
Pike in a Vinegar Sauce
Sandre de Loire au vinaigre d’Orleans 137
Pastry Rolled around Pear and Apple
Pastis du Quercy 141
Poached Chicken with Stuffing and Rich Rice
Poule au pot et sa farce avec du riz au gras 142
Agen Prunes on Coconut Cream with Armagnac
Pruneau d’Agen au plat 143
Prune Pudding
Coupétado 146
White Mousse with Raspberry Coulis
Crémet d’Anjou 147
Chicken Poached and Sauteed with Chanterelles
Volaille d’Anjou “pochée rôtie”aux girolles des bois de
Beaufort 148
Norman Poached Chicken with Chestnuts
Poule au blanc à la normande 150
Ramequins of Andouille in Apple Wine and Camembert
Petites cocottes normandes à l’andouille de Vire, au
pommeau et camembert 151
Braised Beef, Tongue, Pork, Sausages, and Vegetables
Potée champenoise 154
Profiteroles Filled with Langres Cheese
Profiteroles de Langres 156
Apple Terrine in Cider Aspic with Caramel
Terrine de pommes au cidre et fine du Maine et son caramel
normand 157
Blue Cake
Gâteau bleu 158
Meat Pie from Lorraine
Tourte lorraine 160
Red Currant Tart with Meringue
Tarte meringuée aux groseilles de mon jardin 161
Flan Cake from Brittany
Far breton nature 163
Monkfish Roasted in Bacon
Rôti de lotte groisillonne 164
Greengage Tart
Tarte aux mirabelles 165
Veal Paupiettes with Ham and Eggs
Nids d’hirondelles 166
Pork Roast with Greengages
Rôti de porc aux mirabelles 168
Roasted Pike with Potatoes Boulangère and Roasted Tomato
Sandre rôti sur peau, boulangère de pommes de terre et
tomates confites 169
Beef Stew in Beer
Carbonade, frites et bière du Nord 171
Sugar Tart
Tarte au sucre 172
Rhubarb Tart
Tarte à la rhubarbe et vergeoise 173
Micheline’s Maroilles Tart
Flamiche au maroilles, façon Micheline 174
Terrine of Mixed Meats
Potjevlesch 175
Steamed Duck
Canard col-vert à l’étouffée 176
Tarte Tatin of Endives, Bacon, and Cheese
Tatin d’endives au rollot 178
Marinated Camembert with Pear-Apple Chutney
Camembert Mariné au poiré Domfront, chutney aux poires
et pommes 179
Boulogne Fisherman’s Chowder
Caudière à la boulonnaise—le vrai plat des pêcheurs
boulonnais! 181
Kermesse Custard Tart
Tarte à gros bords, ou Tarte à papin, ou Tarte de
ducasse 182
Rabbit Stewed in Wine
Lapin en civet 185
Apple in Puff Pastry
La pompe aux pommes 186
Basque Scrambled Eggs with Peppers and Tomatoes
Pipérade 187
Pyrenean Potage with Duck Confit
Garbure bigourdane 188
Partridge with Seville Oranges in Sauce
Perdreau à la sauce catalane 189
Catalan Meatballs with Olives in Tomato Sauce
Boles de picoulat 190
Sweet Yeast Dumplings
Pains soufflés à la vapeur (Dampfnüdle) 192
Alsatian Stuffed Pasta Rolls
Tranches farcies et roulées (Fleischschnaka) 194
Sweet Kugelhopf from Alsace
Kougelhopf sucré d’Alsace 195
Choucroute Garnie
Choucroute 196
Alsatian One-Pot Baked Dinner
Bäckeoffe 197
Crisp-Fried Marinated Carp
Carpe frite sundgauvienne 200
Pâté in a Puff Pastry Crust
Pâté vigneron en croûte 201
Cardoons with Marrow
Cardon 202
Chicken in Creamy Cheese Sauce
Poulet à la cancoillotte 203
Fougerolles Cherry Cake
Gâteau aux cerises de Fougerolles 204
Chicken in Cream Sauce “Mère Blanc”
Poulet de Bresse à la crème, façon “mère Blanc” 206
White Sausage with Apples
Boudin blanc aux pommes 208
Apple Cake
Gâteau aux pommes 209
Savoyard Bread Pudding
Farçon de Séez, ou Farcement 210
Sausages and Onions in White Wine
Diots au vin blanc 213
Tartare of Smoked and Fresh Lake Fish
Tartare de féra fumée et fraîche du lac Léman 214
Iced Gazpacho
Gaspacho glacé 216
Broiled Pig’s Inner Parts
Tentation de saint Antoine 217
Chocolate Cake
Gâteau au chocolat 219
Baked Endives and Ham
Endives au jambon 220
Filet Mignon with Brie
Filet mignon nappé de brie de Meaux 221
Poached Hen “Belle Gabrielle”
Poularde “Belle Gabrielle” 224
Macaroons from Niort
Macarons de Niort 225
Somme Bay Scallop Chowder
Coquillade de la baie de Somme 228
Leek Tart
Flamiche aux poireaux 230
Crepe Rolls with Ham and Mushrooms
Ficelle picarde 231
Water-Gardeners’ Vegetable Soup
Soupe des hortillons 232
Fava Bean Cassoulet
Févoulet avec sa crème d’ail rose de Lautrec 233
“Maw-Breaker” Buns
“Casse-Museaux” de Brassac 234
Foie Gras with Chasselas Grapes
Foie gras poêlé aux raisins de Chasselas 235
Tomato Tart
Tarte à la tomate 236
Fish Soup with Aioli
Bourride toulonnaise 237
Melon Tiramisu
Tiramisu au melon de Cavaillon 240
Rennet Pudding from the Vendée
Caillebottes 241
Ham with White Beans
Jambon aux mogettes 242
Sugar Galette
Broyé du Poitou 243
Cherry Clafoutis
Clafoutis aux cerises 244
Pâté from Lorraine
Pâté lorrain 246
Vosges Trout with Herbs
Truite des Vosges aux herbes 247
Cheese Puffs
Gougères 250
Spit-Roasted Pig’s Head
Tête de porc à la broche 252
Blueberry Tart
Tarte aux brimbelles 253
Cream of Tomato Soup
Velouté de tomates 256
Tagliatelle with Truffles and Foie Gras
Tagliatelles à la truffe et aux copeaux de foie gras 257
Curried Chicken
Poulet au curry 260
Flan Flambé
Flaugnarde 263
Braised Duck with Cherries
Canard braisé aux montmorency 264
Jellied Rabbit
Lapin en compote 266
Coconut Jam Cake
Tourment d’amour 267
Pâté of Lamb and Innards in a Casserole
Pâté en Pot, ou patte en pot 271
Curried Pork with Vegetables
Colombo de porc 272
Spicy Casserole of Cod with Garlic and Tomato
Rougail de morue 274
Twice-Cooked Sausage with Tomato in a Spicy Sauce
Rougail saucisses 276
Gratin of Halibut and Potato
Rôti de flétan 277
Casserole of Mackerel, Coconut Milk, Mango, and Tapioca
Mataba au poisson 278
Breadfruit in Coconut Milk
Sausau 279
Ceviche of White Fish Cubes in Coconut Milk
Poisson cru au lait de coco 281
Ceviche of Tuna Slices with Lemongrass
Filet de thon mariné à la citronelle 283
Amuse Bouche:
A Little Taste of What Is to Follow
Politics and cuisine?
While this might seem an unlikely combination at first glance, the two share singular affinities.
Ambassadors of their departments, French deputies represent their constituents at the Palais Bourbon, home of the National
Assembly—the forum where France conducts its politics. Beyond the political aspect of their role, however, these deputies all
enjoy good cuisine, and have agreed to share and exhibit with pride a sample of the gastronomy of their particular land—le
terroir. Each recipe, each dish is made with the prized products, meat and sea fare, identified with their district.
This book is the personal mirror of various culinary traditions born in the course of a long history, passed down through the
generations. Today each traditional cuisine, while retaining its authenticity, has traveled beyond its original borders and can be
enjoyed throughout all of France—and the world.
Like the scope of their politics, the various regional cuisines presented in this book can be modest or grand, innovative or
orthodox, stimulating or soothing. The one basic common denominator is the quality of the products and ingredients assembled
for each preparation. Combining flavors is the second act that will determine whether a magical dish appears on the table.
Every five years, deputies in France stand for election, in a sort of grand electoral cook-off. Candidates may get roasted,
skewered, raked over the coals, stewed in their own juices, or grilled by their constituents, but at the end of day all are in the
same position, presented on the same platter. Both crusty veterans and young sprouts are subject to the electorate’s scrutiny,
and only the candidates best able to respond to the issues of the moment will get the thumbs-up and avoid the compost heap.
In French Country Cooking: Authentic Recipes from Every Region, for the first time, deputies representing every department of
metropolitan France, including our overseas territories, have contributed to a collective cookbook offering savory and sweet,
time-tested and timeless dishes.
It is with great pleasure that I invite you to share the panoply of gourmand moments with us. You will discover never-published
recipes, and will even be surprised by some new combinations of flavors.
My hope is that reading this book will inspire your own creativity, as well as ignite your curiosity to explore our rich and
multifaceted country.
Françoise Branget
Deputy of Doubs
Thanks 284
Index 285
1
Notes from the American
Editor and Translator
This book, an armchair travelogue of France with recipes emblematic of each district, will give the reader a rare opportunity of
discovering la France profonde, off the beaten track.
Endowed with landscapes as rich as they are diverse, fertile farmlands and orchards throughout, France’s singular patrimony is
its incredibly varied gastronomy—an art refined over centuries.
History points out that a great many of the dishes considered today part of our gastronomic glory trace their roots to a time when
rural France suffered extreme poverty. The only way for the countrymen to survive was to avail themselves of all the simple
elements growing nearby. Some plants they gathered from nature’s bounty, and some they grew themselves. Every possible
part was used, either to feed the family, to fertilize the fields, or to feed the livestock. And the animals—besides producing milk
or eggs or offspring—were in turn used for food from head to hoof. Driven by necessity, the rural householder learned how best
to utilize each part of the beef or lamb, pig or chicken, including delicacies made of the innards and the extremities.
The recipes in this book for the most part date from long ago, emanating from the rural terroir, the small villages of la France
profonde, from a time when farmers’ choices to feed themselves were limited to the produce of their own land—and when native
creativity and innate ingenuity arose to transform the most humble ingredients into delectable fare.
Most of the deputies in the French Parliament who contributed to this collection were handed down a recipe by a grandmother or
mother, secrets of family lore. Their sharing of their closely guarded treasures enables today’s reader to enjoy traditional cooking
and to survey the origins of French gastronomy.
From these timeworn memoranda, scribbled in patois or local dialect and for the most part fragmentary or imprecise, recipes
evolved into what is today our classic French cuisine.
For the reader’s convenience, and to avoid repetition, I include below a few basic components that are used over and over
throughout the book.—Tr.
—Jeannette M. Seaver
Crème fraiche
In a bowl, mix 1 cup heavy cream and 2 tablespoons sour cream. Cover and let sit overnight or a bit longer. Stir the crème fraiche
and refrigerate.
Aioli
2 garlic cloves, germ removed
1 large egg yolk
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 1/2 cups olive oil
pepper and salt
Put ingredients in the blender except for the oil. Turn blender on, and slowly trickle oil until mixture becomes firm. If you feel it
is too thick, add a few drops water. If too thin, add 1 slice bread (crust removed), and mix in blender for a few seconds.
Bouquet garni
To flavor a stock or other cooking liquid, a bunch of aromatic herbs is tied with string and immersed in the liquid. Usually the
bouquet consists of a few sprigs of parsley, thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, and chives, though the composition may vary. The
bundle is removed before using the stock.
Pâte brisée
2 ½ cups unbleached flour
2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
½ cup ice water
Pulse all ingredients in the food processor until it comes together. Remove from processor, and form a ball of dough with your
hands. Wrap and refrigerate at least one hour.
Stock
Stock can be made with the bones of beef, veal, chicken, or fish. Immerse the bones in a kettle of water with carrots, leeks,
onion, celery, bouquet garni, peppercorns, and salt, and simmer for at least an hour, or longer for a stronger stock. Strain,
discarding the solids, and refrigerate. A vegetable stock may be made without bones. For a dark stock, or fond brun, the bones
and vegetables are roasted before simmering. Fish stock, fumet de poisson, is made with white wine.
2
3
Hare from the Mothers Blanc
01 AIN
Lièvre des mères Blanc
The department of Ain, situated at the eastern edge of France in the Rhône-Alpes region, is
named after the Ain River, which divides the department’s pastoral western half from the
mountains of the Jura that extend east to Switzerland.
Étienne Blanc, saluting his ancestresses in his recipe title, plays on the fact that the
region’s foremost chef, Georges Blanc, took over a restaurant already made famous by his
mother, La Mère Blanc.
“I discovered this old recipe on very yellowed, nearly transparent paper one day in my
family home as I was looking at a book dating from before the Revolution. It belonged to
an ancestor of mine.”
Étienne Blanc
Deputy of Ain
Serves 8
1 hare, about 4–5 pounds, cut up
in pieces, blood reserved
4 cups red wine
4 carrots, sliced
2 onions, finely chopped
1 bouquet garni (parsley, thyme,
bay leaf, chives)
Pepper and salt
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons flour
3 cups beef stock, from pot-aufeu (see Monday)
2 small blood sausages made
with onion
4
Beforehand:
 On a tray, leave hare outside in the open air, if you can, lightly covered with a thin cheesecloth,
for 3–4 days. Reserve blood and giblets in the refrigerator.
Monday:
 [While I share with the Blanc family a preference for making the traditional pot-au-feu, and
using its flavorful broth, these days one can find excellent ready-made beef stock in cartons or
cans.—Tr.]
Pot-au-feu
 In a large kettle, put a meaty beef shin bone, 3–4 short ribs, 2 marrow bones, 1 onion studded
with 3 cloves, celery, leek, 2 carrots, and parsley. Cover meat with water all the way to the top
of the kettle. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, add sea salt and peppercorns, cover, and continue
cooking 1 hour, skimming now and then with a slotted spoon to remove the scum.
 When the meat is tender, you must sit down and enjoy the pot-au-feu with some of its
rich broth. Bon appétit! The leftover stock will be used in the hare recipe on Thursday. Filter it
through a colander. You should have at least 3–4 cups. Refrigerate.
Tuesday:
 Remove and discard layer of fat formed on top of cold stock. Replace in refrigerator.
 In a bowl, mix wine, carrots, onions, bouquet garni, pepper, and salt. Transfer marinade into
a plastic bag along with the pieces of hare. Refrigerate 24 hours.
Wednesday:
 In a pan, heat 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil. Sauté neck, giblet, and head,
with chopped carrots and onion from the marinade, and garlic clove. Cook 1 hour. Deglaze the
pan with the balsamic vinegar. Reserve liver and heart.
 Discard the hare pieces. Press the vegetables and liquid through a sieve. Discard the solids
and save the jus.
Thursday:
 Remove meat from marinade. Dry with absorbent paper. Filter marinade. In a heavy pot, melt
the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons oil, and sauté meat until nicely golden.
Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons flour, pepper and salt. Pour in the filtered marinade, 1 cup beef broth,
and the reserved blood and jus. Stir. Cover. Cook over low heat 1 hour. Add stock as needed.
Friday:
 Finely chop the reserved liver and the heart. Add to the meat preparation, along with the pieces
of mashed blood sausage, bringing up to a simmer and stirring to incorporate well. Set aside.
Sunday:
 Bring the civet to a simmer and finish the cooking. Serve with flat noodles.
Maroilles Cheese Tart
Tarte au maroilles
Poulet de Bresse au vin jaune et purée de rutabagas au comté
With its legendary poulet from the Bresse region and its lush woods and meadows, the
department of Ain is often referred to as the farmyard of France. In 1957 the Agriculture
Ministry under President Coty granted the poulet de Bresse the rare and coveted AOC
(Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) designation, guaranteeing its place of origin. A chicken
with blue feet, it is the only fowl in the world to have received such distinction. Star of
all worthy grandes tables, the Bresse chicken is widely exported and can be found in good
American poultry shops.
Vin jaune too is of strictly local production, a characteristic Jura wine. Its bouquet is not
unlike that of sherry. In the absence of vin jaune, one can substitute with half white wine,
half sherry.
The Comté cheese, from the same region, is a dry, rich cheese with a hint of hazelnut
flavor.
“Our Michelin three-star chef, Georges Blanc, and all the fine restaurateurs of the Ain
have spotlighted our star product. Here is a traditional poulet de Bresse recipe to enjoy
with—or without—moderation.”
Xavier Breton
Deputy of Ain
Serves 8
2 Bresse chickens, plucked and
drawn
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup chopped parsley
3 tablespoons fresh thyme
1 tablespoon fresh marjoram
1 tablespoon fresh oregano
Pepper and salt
1 bottle vin jaune or Jura macvin
1 pound Comté cheese
1 cup walnuts, chopped
4 cups heavy cream
1 caul (your butcher will give
you one)
For the rutabaga purée:
1 pound rutabaga, peeled and
cubed
2 sticks butter
Pepper and salt
6
 Wash chickens, pat dry. Remove legs, cut them at the joint.
 In a pan, melt butter and oil, sauté legs until brown. Add herbs and seasonings. After 15
minutes, deglaze with wine, reserving 1 cup for the end. Continue cooking 30 minutes.
 Meanwhile, grate 1/2 pound of the Comté, set it aside, and cut the other 1/2 pound into
cubes. Cut the breasts off the chickens and cube the meat. In a large bowl, combine cubed
chicken breasts, cubed Comté, and walnuts. Add 2 cups cream, mix well.
 Preheat oven to 350°F.
 On a board, lay out the sheet of caul fat or crépine. Cut into 8 pieces/crépinettes. Place a
dollop of the chicken mixture in the center of each section of crépine and fold it into a neat
package. Set the 8 stuffed crépinettes in an ovenproof dish, seam side down.
 Bake at 350°F for 30 minutes.
 While the crépinettes are baking, start the rutabaga (below).
 When chicken legs are cooked, remove and keep warm. Strain the sauce into a saucepan,
reheating while stirring in the remaining 2 cups heavy cream. Gently stir in the 1/2 pound grated
cheese until it melts and thickens the sauce. Keep sauce warm, and stir in remaining 1 cup wine.
02 AISNE
01 AIN
Bresse Chicken in Vin
Jaune Sauce with
Rutabaga Purée
The two deputies from the Aisne department—whose name comes from the most central
of its three main rivers—have agreed to jointly contribute the same traditional recipe.
This tarte is prepared with a pâte levée, a yeasty dough characteristic of the region. Its
main ingredient, the Maroilles cheese, has been produced for centuries in Thiérache, the
vast region bordering Belgium, and takes its name from the village of Maroilles in the
Nord department just adjacent to Aisne. Square, with a perfectly edible smooth pink skin,
Maroilles is a soft cow’s-milk cheese that imparts a strong flavor.
The tarte aux maroilles is served hot as the main part of the meal, savored with a green
salad. This recipe was prepared by Xavier Bertrand and Isebelle Vasseur, deputies of Aisne.
 Preheat oven to 450°F.
 In a small cup, put yeast sprinkled with a little sugar. Add warm milk. Wait a few minutes
until it becomes foamy. In a bowl, mix yeast mixture with flour and salt. Add eggs and butter.
Knead 2 minutes until it becomes elastic and smooth. Cover. Let rise 1 hour.
 Punch risen dough down, roll it out, and line a tart mold with it. Let rise another 30 minutes.
 Scrape skin of Maroilles without removing it. Cut in thin slices. Line pie dough with cheese
slices. In the food processor, blend yolks and crème fraiche until smooth. Cover cheese with
the mixture.
 Bake 30 minutes.
Serves 6
For the dough:
1 envelope dry yeast
Pinch of sugar
1/4 cup warm milk
1 1/2 cups unbleached flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 eggs
4 tablespoons butter, softened
For the filling:
1 Maroilles cheese
2 egg yolks
6 ounces crème fraiche
1/4 teaspoon fresh pepper
Rutabaga
 In a pot half filled with boiling, salted water, cook rutabaga for 20 minutes. Drain. Purée in
the food processor or mash by hand, incorporating all the butter. Season to taste.
Place one crépinette along with a half chicken leg on each plate. Add a
dollop of rutabaga purée. Coat with the sauce, and serve.
7
“The pâté bourbonnais? A very local recipe in every way—its name, its ingredients,
the know-how necessary to make it, and especially what it is: un rien trublion, a little
troublemaker. As was considered the old province of the Bourbonnais, the land now called
the Allier, from early on was regarded as unruly by the government of the Auvergne,
which tried to annihilate it, unsuccessfully.
“The pâté bourbonnais is like that, mutinous. It goes against all the traditions of the
culinary canon. Potatoes? Encased in pastry? And flooded with heavy cream? Such an
unlikely union. Yet all who taste it are won over.
“Another confirmation of its local authenticity is that it is best eaten only with other
products of the Bourbonnais. The rougette or doucette lettuce grown in the mud of the
Allier banks, or the ham air-dried in our Bourbonnais mountains, and of course the white
Auvergne wine of Saint-Pourçain—a unique cépage that balances perfectly the richness of
our pâté.
“Omit or add any ingredient at your own risk. Beware of turning our pâté into a most
improbable pudding!”
Gérard Charasse
Deputy of Allier
“The potato pâté was born in the farming country between Target and Voussac in the
Allier in 1789, a time of great food shortage. In those days the farmers, all observing the
religious rules strictly, never ate meat on Fridays. To add to the privation, they were not
permitted to fish the ponds in the woodlands belonging to their Bourbon overlords. What
were they to do?
“With the few components they were able to scare up, they devised a new Friday meal
consisting of a potato-filled two-crust pie, cooked without liquid and then infused with
crème fraiche, an ingredient all farms had in good supply.
“This pâté bourbonnais has survived the years, and today many bakeries in the region as
well as local restaurants offer the potato pâté every Friday.”
 Preheat oven to 350°F.
 In a bowl, with your fingers, mix flour, oil, water, and salt until it forms a homogeneous
dough. Do not overmix. You may wish to add either a few more drops of water, if it appears too
dry, or some more flour or oil. The more oil, the more unctuous the dough will be.
 Divide dough into two equal balls. On a floured work surface, roll out the first ball and place
it in a 10-inch pie plate, letting extra dough hang over sides.
 In a bowl, mix potatoes with onions, herbs, nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Place potato slices in
a circular array in the piecrust, making sure to have more slices in the middle.
 Roll out the second ball of dough and place over potatoes. Crimp the two crusts together to
seal the pie. With a knife, cut out a cross in the middle and fold back the four corners to create a
chimney. For decorative effect, make light incisions all around. In a small bowl, lightly beat the
egg yolk with 2 tablespoons water. Brush top of pie with this egg wash. Bake 45–60 minutes.
 Remove from oven. Cut out a circle in the middle of the crust and pour the cream inside,
poking with a knife and tilting the pie to distribute the cream as best you can. (A little messy,
but worth it.) Replace the circle. Serve hot, warm, or cold.
Serves 6
For the crust:
3 cups unbleached flour
1/2 cup olive oil
6 tablespoons cold water
1/2 teaspoon salt
For the filling:
2 pounds potatoes, peeled and
cut into thin slices
1 large onion, minced
1/4 cup chives, finely chopped
1/2 cup parsley, finely chopped
1/2 cup chervil, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground
nutmeg
Freshly ground pepper
Pinch of fleur de sel
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons heavy
cream
1 egg yolk
03 ALLIER
03 ALLIER
Potato
and
Cream
Pâté
Pâté bourbonnais aux pommes de terre
Jean Mallot
Deputy of Allier
“Among the excellent recipes from the Auvergne, the most ubiquitous in the Allier is
without doubt this very pâté. All three of us agree that our pâté bourbonnais represents
the best that our region has to offer. This is the gourmet version, although some who
incline more toward gourmand may add ham, or even turn it into a dessert by substituting
pears.”
Bernard Lesterlin
Deputy of Allier
10
11
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