Westfield AeroRace Build Manual

Westfield AeroRace Build Manual
Introduction
Aluminium
Paneling
Pedal Area
& Pipes
Wiring Loom
Suspension
& Steering
Differential &
Rear Brakes
Flexible Brake
Hoses
Fuel Tank &
Supply System
Prop Shaft &
Steering Column
Body Work
Rollcage
BUILD MANUAL
Engine &
Systems
Final
Fittings
Optional
Anti Rollbar
Suspension
Set-up
Pre Start
Checks
Westfield Sportscars Ltd
Unit One Gibbons Industrial Park
Dudley Road
Kingswinford
West Midlands
DY6 8XF
+44 (0) 1384 400077
Fax: +44 (0) 1384 288781
Published by Westfield Sportscars Ltd
First Published 2008
Copyright 2008
Westfield Sportscars Ltd
All rights reserved. Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of private study, research, criticism or
review, as permitted under the Copyright, Design and Patents Act 1988, no part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by means electronic, electrical,
chemical, optical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without prior written permission. All enquiries
should be addressed to the publisher.
Introduction I
Welcome
As you are reading this construction manual, either you are contemplating the purchase of a Westfield
Sports car or have already done so. In either case we would like to thank you for your interest in our
product which we firmly believe is the best available. To that end we are prepared to back up our claims
with a full warranty on every part bought from us.
Westfield Sportscars were established in 1982. Since then Westfield has produced many thousands of cars.
We lay claim to the title of “Europe’s biggest component car manufacturer”. Though an enviable title,
Westfield does not intend to rest on its laurels. We are constantly improving our cars, developing many
options and additions with which to further the desirability of our product.
At Westfield Sportscars we believe that much of the enjoyment of the car should be it its actual
construction. The whole point of the building a Westfield is to realise a vehicle what will fit the purpose for
which it is intended. With many thousands of satisfied owners, both here and abroad, we believe that at
Westfield we have accomplished that objective.
It is in our best interest to deliver to you the means of building a car, simply and quickly, with a minimum of
complication and a maximum amount of fun.
We sincerely hope you enjoy that experience
Julian Turner
Managing Director
Westfield Sportscars Ltd
This publication specifically covers the Westfield Aero Race model.
The manual is divided into chapters, each covering a different aspect of the vehicle build. We recommend
that you work through the build following the chapters in chronological order. Each chapter illustrates the
parts are required to complete the chapter along with a list of tools required. Tasks are broken down into
step by step instructions, supported by images of the build process. Notes are included along the way to
provide addition information or helpful tips on building.
Safety
II
Safety
You will not need to use welding or grinding equipment in the building of a Westfield sports car. However, it is very
important that you take ALL necessary SAFEY precautions.
1.
ALWAYS WEAR
Goggles or protective glasses when drilling.
Protective gloves when handling fibreglass.
2.
DO NOT guess at the torque settings.
Always refer to the torque settings.
If you do not own a torque wrench, then hire one form a good quality hire shop.
3.
IT IS ESSENTIAL that the supports placed under the chassis during the build process are suitable and
SAFE for use.
Westfield Sportscars manufacture chassis support frames that are designed specifically for the
purpose and are available from the factory.
4.
DO NOT use bricks, building blocks or wooden packing cases.
Bricks and building blocks are not suitable as they are liable to topple.
Wooden packing cases are not suitable as they are liable to crush as the weight of the car
increases during the build process.
5.
DO NOT connect the battery positive lead until the wiring loom has been fully installed and all earth
cables have been connected.
The battery must not be connected until all tests have been completed.
6.
DO NOT fill the fuel tank until the car is complete.
The fuel tank must not be filled until all of the “set-up” tests have been completed.
7.
PLEASE take care with brake fluid and brake fluid spillage.
8.
ALWAYS have a suitable fire extinguisher at hand.
Have FUN but please, be SAFE
Torque Settings
III
Torque Chart
Brake System
1
2
3
4
Component
3-way Brake Pipe Union
Brake Pressure Switch
Front Brake Calliper Mounting Bolts
Rear Brake Calliper Mounting Bolts
Thread
M10 x 1.0
M10 x 1.0
M12 x 1.75
M10 x 1.5
Lb/ft
5
5
40
35
Nm
7
7
54
47
Notes
Thread
7/16” UNF
7/16” UNF
M10 x 1.5
1/2" UNF
M12 x 1.5
7/16” UNF
Lb/ft
28
30
28
25
25
30
Nm
38
40
34
34
34
40
Notes
Thread
M8 x 1.25
M8 x 1.25
M8 x 1.25
9/16” UNF
Lb/ft
20
20
20
35
Nm
27
27
27
47
Notes
Thread
M10 x 1.0
M12 x 1.75
M12 x 1.75
7/16” UNF
M10 x 1.5
M8 x 1.25
M22 x 1.5
M20 x 1.5
Lb/ft
35
30
40
20
20
25
250
10
Nm
47
40
54
27
27
34
340
13
Notes
Thread
M8 x 1.25
M12 x 1.75
7/16” UNF
M12 x 1.25
Lb/ft
20
40
26
65
Nm
27
54
35
90
Notes
MAX
MAX
Loctite
Suspension
5
6
7
8
9
10
Component
Track Rd End Nuts To Steering Arm
Wishbone Securing Bolts To Chassis
Lower Ball Joint Securing Bolts to Wishbone
Lower Ball Joint Nut To Upright
Top Ball Joint Nut To Upright
Shock Absorber To Chassis Mounting Bolts
Steering
11
12
13
14
Component
Upper Steering Column Mounting Bolts
Steering Column Universal Joint
Steering Rack Mounts
Steering Wheel Nut
MAX
MAX
MAX
Transmission
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
Component
Propshaft To Differential Bolts
Differential Bolts To Chassis
Differential Studs To Chassis
Differential Stabiliser To Chassis
Stabiliser To Differential Setscrews
LOBRO Joint Allen Bolts
Driveshaft Hub Nut
Differential Filler Plug
Loctite
Loctite
Other
23
24
25
26
Component
Handbrake Lever Mounting Bolts
Roll Over Bar Bolts
Seat Belt Mounting Bolts
Wheel Nuts (Rimstock)
Loctite
It is important to remember that ALL suspension bolts and nyloc nuts will be torqued
tightened during the set-up stage. During assembly, all suspension bolts and nyloc nuts should
be “nipped “ only and not torque tightened.
Bolt Finder IV
Bolt Length – Actual Size
Metric Bolts
Imperial Bolts
4”
16mm
3 3/4"
20mm
3 1/2"
25mm
3 1/4"
30mm
3”
35mm
2 3/4"
40mm
45mm
2 1/2"
2 1/4"
50mm
2”
55mm
60mm
Plain Section
1 3/4"
1 1/2"
Threaded Section
1 3/8”
1 1/4"
1”
60mm
Bolt Diameter – Actual Size
M5
M6
M8
M10
M12
7/16”
Notes
The difference between a BOLT and a SETSCREW is that a bolt is only partially threaded and has a plain
upper section, whereas a setscrew is threaded along its whole length.
The length of a bolt or a setscrew is measures from the underside of the head.
The diameter of a bolt is measured across the plain non-threaded section, for a setscrew measure across
the top of the threads.
Getting Started V
Getting Started
If you have purchased the optional Westfield chassis support stands then, with the help of an assistant, lift and
position the chassis onto these supports.
If you have not purchases these stands, then ensure that the chassis is positioned onto suitable supports, which
allow the various parts to be fitted.
Important - Do not attempt to modify any of the items supplied without specific reference to the technical helpline
at the factory
Positioning – Throught the manual
Storage of bodywork
The bodywork must not be stored in plastic sheet, in damp or humid conditions.
Do not store bodywork in direct sunlight, in greenhouses or conservatories.
Westfield Sportscars will not accept warranty claims for damage to bodywork where the damage has been caused
by any of the above conditions.
Support
During your build you may from time to time require further support in addition to this manual. Westfield
Sportscars prides itself on its industry leading customer support. We recommend firstly visiting our website:
www.wsestfield-sportcars.co.uk. Our Support pages provide answers to frequently asked questions on a model by
model basis. If your answer is not available there we also offer a telephone support service on: 01384 400077.
Please follow the telephone menu instructions for support. Alternatively email [email protected]
Revision 33
Chapter 1
Aluminium Paneling
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING OF ALUMINIUM PANELS ..................................... 3
1
Panelling - Tunnel................................................ 3
2
Panelling – Rear Bulkhead .................................... 3
3
Panelling - Inner Footwell ..................................... 4
4
5
6
7
8
Panelling
Panelling
Panelling
Panelling
Panelling
-
Bulkhead ............................................ 4
Scuttle ............................................... 4
Exterior Side ....................................... 4
Floor Panels ........................................ 4
Tunnel Top ......................................... 4
INTRODUCTION
The aluminium panel kit is supplied flat packed and is protected in transit by a removable plastic film. All the panels are CNC cut and ready
drilled for easy installation. In some cases it may be necessary to trim or bend returns on some panels (usually the tunnel inner sections.) This
is not undertaken at the factory to prevent damage to the other panels during packaging. All the panels are attached to the chassis using 4.1
mm closed aluminium rivets and sealed using silicone sealant.
If you have ordered your vehicle with aluminium panels fitted then please proceed to chapter 2.
Tools Required
A. Rubber Mallet
B.
Pop Rivet Gun
C.
4.1mm Drill Bit
D. “G” Clamp’s
E.
De-burring Bit
F.
Metal Files
G. Tin Snips
H. Silicone Gun
I.
Silicone Sealer
J.
Drill
Aluminium Paneling
Parts Required
A. Inner Tunnel Panels
B.
Rear Bulkhead Panel
C.
Flat Floor Panels
D. Exterior Panels
E.
Bulkhead Panels
F.
Scuttle Panel
G. Drivers Side Inner Footwell Panel
H. Passenger Side Inner Footwell Panel
I.
Tunnel Top Panel
D
A
B
C
E
F
G
H
I
1•2
1•3 Aluminium Paneling
FITTING OF ALUMINIUM PANELS
6 Carefully place the panel on to the chassis
and place rivets in the holes ready for
final fitment (Fig 1.4).
Panel Positioning
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
Tunnel Sides
Rear Bulkhead
Floor Panels
Side Panels
Front Bulkhead
B
C
I
E
G
F
A
D
E
G.
H.
I.
Scuttle Panel
Inner Footwell
Tunnel Top Panel
1.4
7 Pull up the rivets with a rivet gun.
8 Remove any excess sealant with a clean
cloth and white spirit.
1 Panelling - Tunnel
1
Locate the two tunnel panels [A] from
your parts, place the panels in their
positions according to the positioning
diagram and carefully clamp in place (Fig
1.1).
2 Panelling – Rear Bulkhead
1
1.3
NOTE:
The front of the inner tunnel panel is bent
around the chassis using a soft mallet (see
image below).
1.1
2
Ensure the panel is secured firmly in
position then drill into the chassis using
the panel as your template (Fig 1.2).
The rear of the panel fits inside of the
chassis tubing so the rivets can be fixed from
inside of the tunnel (see image below).
1.2
3
4
5
When all the holes are drilled, remove
the clamps and the panel.
Remove any burs from the chassis with
a de-burring tool and a drill.
Apply silicone sealant to the surfaces of
the chassis that the panel will be in
contact with (Fig 1.3).
Fit the rear bulkhead panel [B],
repeating the process used for the
tunnel panels.
NOTE:
Note that the panel needs to be bent slightly
to get it in place, be careful to minimize
creasing (see image below).
Aluminium Paneling
3 Panelling - Inner Footwell
1
Fit the inner footwell panels [G,H],
repeating the process used for the
tunnel panels.
5 Panelling - Scuttle
1
Fit the scuttle panel [F], repeating the
process used for the tunnel.
1•4
NOTE:
This fitment is best done with the chassis
turned upside down (see image below).
NOTE:
NOTE:
Unlike the other tunnel panels, the inside
footwell panels are fitted to the inside of the
tunnel. This produces additional space
around the pedals.
This panel does not cover the driver’s
footwell (see image below).
The driver’s side footwell panel is a GRP item
with a molded footrest (see image below).
8 Panelling - Tunnel Top
1
6 Panelling - Exterior Side
1
4 Panelling - Bulkhead
1
Fit the bulkhead panels [E], repeating
the process used for the tunnel panels.
Fit the side panels [D], repeating the
process used in the tunnel panels.
NOTE:
Due to the size of the panel it is useful to use
panel clips to hold the panel during fitment
(see image below).
NOTE:
Note the panels are mounted from inside
the engine bay. Be sure to mount the panel
with the holes for the master cylinder on the
driver’s side (see image below).
7 Panelling - Floor Panels
1
Locate and fit the two floor panels [C],
repeating the process used for the
tunnel.
Fit the tunnel top panels [I], repeating
the process used for the tunnel.
NOTE:
The tunnel top is either provided as a single
panel or three panels. These are fitted from
the top of the tunnel (see image below). The
panel(s) may be fitted with rivets or selftapping screws (the latter allows for access
at a later date).
Revision 27
Chapter 2
Pedal Area and Pipes
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
Standard Parts ................................................................ 1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING OF PEDALS AND PIPES ....................................... 3
1
Fitting – Clutch Pedal ........................................... 3
2
Fitting – Brake Pedal ............................................ 3
3
4
5
6
7
Fitting
Fitting
Fitting
Fitting
Fitting
–
–
–
–
–
Accelerator Pedal.................................... 4
Front Brake Pipe ..................................... 5
Pressure Switch ...................................... 6
Rear Circuit ............................................ 6
Fuel Pipe ............................................... 7
INTRODUCTION
The floor mounted pedal assembly is designed to be used with two single master cylinders incorporating a brake bias bar. This allows the brake
proportioning (bias) to be adjusted from front to rear. The brake bias system requires two circuits, one for the front wheels and one for the
rear wheels. Brake bias set up is covered in chapter 14.
Tools Required
Standard Parts
A.
10mm spanner
A.
M8 x 70 stud
x1
B.
13mm spanners x2
B.
M8 x 50 Set Screw
x1
C.
22mm spanner
C.
M8 x 60 Set screw
x1
D.
5mm Drill Bit
D.
M8 x 70 Set Screw
x1
E.
4.1mm Drill Bit
E.
M8 x 30 Set Screw
x4
F.
Needle File
F.
M6 x 30 Set Screw
x1
G.
Mini Pipe Bender
G.
M8 Nyloc Nut
x9
H.
Copper Grease
H.
M6 Nyloc Nut
x3
I.
Rivet Gun
I.
M8 Washer
x6
J.
2.5mm Allen Key
J.
M6 Washer
x2
K.
M10 copper washer
x1
Pedal Area and Pipes
2•2
Parts Required
A. Brake Pedal & Bias Bar
B.
Master Cylinders
C.
Brake and Fuel Pipe Set
D. Accelerator Pedal
E.
Clutch Pedal
F.
Clutch Bush 31mm
G. Brake Bush 31mm
H. Accelerator Bush 21.5mm
I.
Clevis Pin 6mm x 20mm
J.
Split Pin 1.5 x 20mm
K.
Brake Pressure Switch
L.
Accelerator Trunnion
M. 3 Way brake Union
N. Clutch cable
A
F
K
D
c
B
C
G
H
L
M
E
N
I
J
2•3 Pedal Area and Pipes
FITTING OF PEDALS AND PIPES
1 Fitting – Clutch Pedal
1
Locate the clutch cable [N] and pedal [E]
from your parts. Trial fit the cable in its
mounting on the driver’s bulkhead. The
end with the rubber ‘donut’ goes
against the bulkhead.
NOTE
The aluminium bulkhead panel may require
enlarging slightly to allow fitment.
Locate the 20mm split pin [J] into the
clevis pin ensuring the washer is
between the pedal and the split pin.
6 Apply copper grease to the 31mm steel
bush [F].
7 Insert the bush into the pedal (Fig 1.2).
8 Locate 1 M8 x 70mm stud and screw an
M8 nyloc nut on to the end leaving
approximately 5 clear threads. Slide a
washer on to the stud pushing it up to
the flat side of the nut.
9 Offer up the pedal to the uppermost
hole on the clutch pedal bracket and
insert the stud.
10 Place another 8mm steel washer on the
stud.
11 Screw on 1 M8 nyloc nut, do not over
tighten, the clutch pedal should move
freely (Fig 1.3).
5
Be careful not to enlarge the hole in the
chassis as this may damage the chassis and
prevent correct function of the clutch.
2
3
Place the clutch cable through the
bulkhead hole and into the pedal end.
Secure the cable to the pedal with a
clevis pin [I] (Fig 1.1).
1.4
2 Fitting – Brake Pedal
1
Feed the two master cylinders [B]
through the bulkhead and attach using
two M8x30mm set screws per cylinder
(Fig 2.1). An 8mm steel washer is
required on each end of the bolt. Secure
using M8 nyloc nuts.
1.1
4
Place a 6mm plain washer over the
clevis pin.
1.3
12 Fit the clutch pedal stop M8x65mm set
screw and rubber foot grip (Fig 1.4).
1.2
2.1
Pedal Area and Pipes
Secure the pedal to the chassis with the
set screw pushing it through the bush.
9 Fit an M8 washer and secure with an M8
nyloc nut.
10 Place a locking nut on the push rods and
screw the push rods into the clevis
assembly on the balance bar. It may be
necessary to remove the master
cylinder dust clip to enable the push rod
to rotate (Fig 2.4).
2•4
8
NOTE:
Ensure that the master cylinders are
positioned as the image below. The set
screws securing the cylinders should have
nylocs on the cylinder (engine) side of the
bulkhead.
3.1
NOTE:
Be careful not to enlarge the hole in the
chassis as the cable could pull through it.
This operation is done from the engine bay
(see below).
2
3
Fit the bias bar in to the pedal by
removing one of the clevises and sliding
it in to the tube on the pedal.
Refit the clevis and locking nut. For now
set it up so that the ball of the bias bar is
in the middle (Fig 2.2).
2.4
NOTE:
The locking nut is used to screw the
pushrods in or out of the clevises. Screw the
nut on until it locks against the shank of the
pushrod. A spanner can then be used to
rotate the push rod and thus screw it in to
the clevis.
2.2
4
5
6
7
Apply copper grease to the 31mm brake
pedal bush.
Insert the bush into the pedal, as per
the clutch pedal (Fig 1.2).
Line the pedal assembly up to the
mounting hole in the chassis (Fig 2.3).
Locate an M8x60mm set screws from
your parts. Fit an M8 washer to the set
screw.
11 Hold a straight edge against the brake
and clutch pedal rubbers, adjust the
pushrods until the brake and clutch
pedals align (Fig 2.5).
12 Tighten the lock nuts against the clevis
when they are correctly aligned.
3
Fit the accelerator cable through the
chassis from inside the engine bay and
pull the inner through so that the
trunnion [L] can be fitted.
Fit the trunnion into the pedal (Fig 3.2).
3.2
NOTE:
2.5
3 Fitting – Accelerator Pedal
1
2.3
2
Using a 5mm bit, from the inside of the
footwell, drill through the lower throttle
cable hole (Fig 3.1).
Due to varying sizes of cables it may be
necessary to enlarge the hole in the trunnion
slightly.
Pedal Area and Pipes
4
5
6
2•5
Slide the inner cable through the hole in
the trunnion and lightly tighten the 2.5
mm grub screw.
Attach the accelerator pedal [D] to the
chassis using M8x50mm set screw, place
a washers either side and M8 nyloc to
secure the bolt.
Fit the M8x 70mm throttle pedal stop to
the chassis.
NOTE:
All pedal stops and accelerator cable
position are only temporary at this stage
final adjustment will be possible when the
engine is fitted.
4 Fitting – Front Brake Pipe
NOTE:
Two styles of pipe clips are used. The clip in
style are used in the engine bay and rear of
the car. P-clips and rivets are used in the
tunnel.
P Clip
2
Secure to the chassis with a M6 nyloc
nut. 7 Nm (5 ft/lbs) maximum torque.
NOTE
The pipe runs along the round tubular
triangulation brace. Secure with four push in
‘style clips’
Clip in
3
4
Route the long front pipe from the front
master cylinder to the middle of the
front union.
When shaping pipes to follow the line of
the chassis lay the pipe against the
chassis and use your thumb to bend the
pipe (Fig 4.2).
P clips are secured with a 4.1mm closed
rivet.
1
Position the front 3-way union to the
underside of the front chassis cross
member (Fig 4.1).
The pipe then runs along upper cross
member to the front 3 way union.
4.2
5
6
4.1
To secure the pipe in place use a ‘clip in
style’ of pipe fixing.
Drill the chassis using ¼” drill in the
desired position for routing pipe (Fig
4.3).
Pedal Area and Pipes
9
Repeat the procedure for the right hand
side.
5 Fitting – Pressure Switch
2•6
NOTE:
When correctly fitted the copper washer
should be slightly squashed as this will seal
the union and prevent fluid loss.
NOTE:
4.3
7
The brake pressure switch operates the
brake lights when the brakes are applied. It
is mounted underneath the master cylinders
on a mounting bracket welded to the
chassis.
Using a rubber mallet, gently tap the clip
into the hole and remove the brake
pipe.
6 Fitting – Rear Circuit
NOTE:
The rear brake line runs through the tunnel
and requires P-clips. It is worth noting that
this method of fixing can only be done when
the pipes are routed in their final position.
1
NOTE
Take CARE when forming the brake pipes.
We would prefer you to practice on a piece
of scrap pipe.
Do not attempt to RE-BEND or RE-MAKE
incorrectly formed brake pipe bends as
premature failure of the brake, due to
fracture, may occur.
When a bend is required close to the brake
pipe union, a useful method is to use a
13mm spanner over the union and bending
the pipe around your thumb.
1
2
Place 1x10mm copper washer on to the
thread of the pressure switch.
Screw the brake pressure switch into
the middle of the three way brake union
applying a maximum torque of 7 N/m (5
ft/lbs) (Fig 5.1).
Position the rear 3 way union on the flat
plate located to the right of the tunnel
and behind the rear bulkhead (Fig 6.1).
6.1
2
Fix the union to the M6x30mm chassis
stud with M6 nyloc nut placing a washer
either side of the union (Fig 6.2).
5.1
8
Route the left hand pipe from the front
union to the left hand side flexible pipe
bracket (Fig 4.4).
3
Fit the union to the chassis using an
M6x30mm set screw. and a 6mm steel
washer either side of the union.
6.2
3
4.4
5.2
From the (rear) master cylinder, route
the small section of pipe to the nearest
part of the pressure switch union (Fig
6.3).
Pedal Area and Pipes
2•7
7 Fitting – Fuel Pipe
NOTE:
The fuel pipe used measures 8mm diameter.
They are routed through the tunnel with the
rear brake line. Two hard lines required,
providing a return feed and return.
8
The left and right rear brake pipes run
down the upper surface of the top
chassis rails (Fig 6.5).
The pipes are held in place using the 8mm Pclips. Remember that the P-clips can only be
fitted when the fuel line is in the correct
position.
To bend the fuel pipes a mini pipe bender
will be required (see below).
6.3
4
From the pressure switch union route
the pipe to the rear brake union.
Through the tunnel (Fig 6.4).
6.5
9
NOTE:
Fix the pipe through the tunnel using P-clips
not push in clips.
Use ‘Push in clips’ to secure placing
them at 150mm apart.
1
2
3
4
Get one of the two fuel pipes and put a
mark 100mm from one end. This is the
lower of the pipes.
Bend the pipe 33°, this bend is
considered the vertical plane (Fig 7.1).
Create a mark at 355mm and bend at
57° in the vertical plane.
Create a mark 470mm from the
previous one and bend at 8° towards
you in the Horizontal plane.
6.6
6.4
5
6
7
Place P-clips over the brake pipe to be
routed and drill the chassis with a
4.1mm drill bit in the desired position.
Position a 4.1mm rivet in to the hole
through the P-clip.
Pull the rivet up with a rivet gun to
finally secure the pipe.
10 The final clip should be mounted 35mm
away from the upper wishbone mounts
on the top face of the chassis rail (Fig
6.6).
7.1
Pedal Area and Pipes
2•8
7.5
20 Repeat the process until the pipes are
secured.
5
6
7
Create a mark 470mm from the
previous one and bend at 8° towards
you in the Horizontal plane.
Create a mark 675mm from the
previous and bend towards you at 90°
Bend the pipe 90° in the opposite
direction as close to the end of the
previous bend as possible. The result
should be a kink towards you of
approximately 25mm, with the pipe
traveling in the same direction as before
the previous bend (Fig 7.2).
7.2
8
9
Make a final mark 70mm from the end
of the previous bend.
Bend 90° towards you. This finishes
pipe 1 (Fig 7.3).
10 Get the other fuel pipe and put a mark
80mm from one end and bend at 33°
this is the vertical plane.
11 Put a mark 340mm from the previous
and bend in the same plane and
direction at 57°.
12 Put a mark 460mm from the previous
and bend at 8° in the horizontal plane
towards you.
13 Put a mark 680mm and bend 90°
towards you.
14 Bend the pipe 90° in the opposite
direction as close to the end of the
previous bend as possible. The result
should be a kink towards you of
approximately 25mm, with the pipe
traveling in the same direction as before
the previous bend.
15 Put a mark at 100mm and bend at 90°
towards you. This finishes pipe 2.
16 Position both fuel pipes in their correct
location, tape can be used as a
temporary fixing while holes are being
drilled.
17 Place an 8mm P-clip over the fuel pipe
and position as required (Fig 7.4).
7.4
7.3
18 Drill the chassis using a 4.1mm drill bit.
19 Position a 4.1mm rivet in position and
pull up using a rivet gun (Fig 7.5).
Revision 94
Chapter 3
Wiring Loom
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
Standard Parts ................................................................ 1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING OF WIRING LOOM .............................................. 6
Loom Fixing Method ..................................................... 6
1
Positioning- Tunnel Saddles .................................. 6
2
Positioning- Front Loom saddles. ........................... 6
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Positioning- Rear Loom saddles. ........................... 7
Fitting-Fuse Box .................................................. 7
Fitting-Rear Loom ............................................... 7
Fitting-Engine Loom ............................................ 8
Fitting-Dash & Instruments .................................. 9
Fitting-Digital Dash ............................................ 10
Fitting-Battery Cables ........................................ 10
INTRODUCTION
When routing the wiring loom care must be taken not to route it in such a way that damage from sharp edges or heat may occur. The loom
saddle positioning and spacing must be so the cabling is secure and not loosely fitting around the engine bay or tunnel area. Around the
chassis, saddle spacing should be approximately 100mm-150mm. In the tunnel sections spacing should be 150mm but again as the loom exits
the rear of the tunnel spacing distance must be reduced so the loom is fitted securely.
Please note Westfield Sportscars accept no responsibility for damage caused by modification to supplied STD looms. Modifications to wiring
looms are done at the customer’s discretion and alteration of supplied Westfield parts voids any warranty associated with the product.
Before you start remove the loom from its packaging (taking care not to lose the connectors supplied). The fuse box comes pre-wired. Care
should be taken not to disconnect any wires from the fuse box before marking their position. The best way to do this is mark the terminals
using a permanent marker, then put masking tape around the fuse box and mark the terminal positions.
Two different instrument looms exist depending on whether you have an Analog or Digital dash.
Tools Required
Standard Parts
A.
Pop Rivet Gun
A.
M5 x 25mm Dome Headed
x2
B.
4.1mm and 7mm Drill Bit
B.
M5 x 16mm Dome Headed
x5
C.
Pliers
C.
M5 Rivserts
x5
D.
13mm Spanner
D.
M4 x 20mm Dome Head
x3
E.
Rivsert Tool
F.
Possi Driver
G.
3mm Allen Key
Wiring Loom
Parts Required
A. Wiring loom
B.
Engine Loom
C.
Dash Loom
A
D. Sub Loom
E.
4.1mm Rivets
F.
Cable Ties
G. Loom saddle’s
H. Starter Cable
I.
Battery Cable
J.
Earth Cable
K.
Dash Board
L.
Digital Dash
B
C
M. Analog Clock Set
N. Webcon Engine Harness
D
E
J
L
G
M
I
H
K
N
3•2
Wiring Loom
3•3
Wiring Schematics
Main Chassis
HarnessHarness
WIRE COLOUR CODING
G
GREEN
WG
WHITE/GREEN
N
BROWN
LGW
LIGHT GREEN/WHITE
B
BLACK
WN
WHITE BROWN
R
RED
GU
GREEN/BLUE
W
WHITE
NY
BROWN/YELLOW
U
BLUE
RU
RED/BLUE
P
PURPLE
WR
WHITE/RED
WB
WHITE/BLACK
GP
GREEN/PURPLE
RU
RED/BLUE
Wiring Loom
Wiring Schematics
Westfield Zetec Harness
Analogue Dash Harness
3•4
Wiring Loom
3•5
Wiring Schematics
Analogue Dash Harness
Ignition / Starter Harness
Digital Dash Harness
Digital Dash Harness
WIRE COLOUR CODING
G
GREEN
WG
WHITE/GREEN
N
BROWN
LGW
LIGHT GREEN/WHITE
B
BLACK
WN
WHITE BROWN
R
RED
GU
GREEN/BLUE
W
WHITE
NY
BROWN/YELLOW
U
BLUE
RU
RED/BLUE
P
PURPLE
WR
WHITE/RED
WB
WHITE/BLACK
GP
GREEN/PURPLE
RU
RED/BLUE
Wiring Loom
3•6
FITTING OF WIRING LOOM
2
Drill and rivet three saddles to the
[section 2] of the tunnel (Fig 1.2).
3
Drill and rivet two saddles on the
[section 3] of the tunnel (Fig 1.3).
1.3
2 Positioning -Front Loom
Saddles.
Loom Fixing Method
NOTE:
NOTE:
All the saddle fixings are mounted on the
right hand side of the tunnel. Black dots
show position of the saddles. See below
The loom is fixed using ‘loom saddles’ which
are fixed to the chassis with 4mm rivets.
1
2
3
4
5
Mark where the loom saddle is to be
positioned.
Drill a 4.1mm hole in to the chassis
Push a rivet through the saddle and into
the chassis
Pull up with a rivet gun.
Feed a ‘cable tie’ through the saddle,
wrap around the loom and pull tight to
secure the loom in position (Fig 0.1).
2.1
1
Starting at the driver’s side bulkhead.
Drill and position four saddles on the
right hand side chassis strengthening
bar (Fig 2.2).
1.1
0.1
1 Positioning -Tunnel
Saddles
1
2.2
2
Drill and rivet three saddles on to the
underside of the tunnel [section 1] they
are mounted on the driver’s side (Fig
1.1).
1.2
Drill and rivet four saddles across the
chassis tube on the front bulkhead (Fig
2.3).
Wiring Loom
3•7
1
4
Position the 16 saddle clamps required
on the rear drivers side section
according to the diagram (Fig 3.1).
8
Push the screws through the fuse box
holes, fit the spacer and secure to the
rivserts (Fig 4.3).
Fitting -Fuse Box
NOTE:
2.3
3
Fit two saddles to the passenger side
bulkhead (Fig 2.4).
As mentioned at the beginning of the
chapter, make sure that all the fuse box
conections have been noted to their related
wires.
1
Disconnect the fuse box from the loom
and pass the connectors through from
the underside of the scuttle panel
pushing the grommet in to the panel
(Fig 4.1).
4.3
5
Fitting -Rear Loom
NOTE:
With the fuse box in place the loom can be
orientated in its correct position, use the
wiring diagram as a guide to locate relevant
plug position e.g. Headlamp rear lamp etc.
The longest section of the loom is the rear
part and this should be routed along the
tunnel.
2.4
4
Fit two saddles across the top of the
passenger side bulkhead and two down
the right hand side of the nearside
bulkhead (Fig 2.5).
1
4.1
2
3
4
5
2.5
6
3 Positioning -Rear Loom
saddles.
Reconnect the fuse box connecting the
spade connectors back to their original
locations.
Position the fuse box next to the
grommet, ensure the wires are not
stretched.
Using the fuse box as a guide mark the
position of the holes on to the scuttle
panel.
Drill two 7mm holes in the position
marked.
Secure two M5 rivserts into the scuttle
panel (Fig 4.2).
Run the long section of the loom
through the tunnel, fixing with cable ties
to the saddles fitted in section 1 (Fig5.1).
5.1
2
As the loom exits the tunnel it bends
round to the drivers side of the chassis
towards the saddle clamps fitted earlier.
Attach the loom with cable ties as used
in the tunnel (Fig 5.2).
3
4
4.2
3.1
7
Locate two M5x20mm dome headed
screws from your parts along with two
spacers M5 IDx10mm long.
5
5.2
Wiring Loom
3•8
NOTE:
NOTE:
NOTE:
The numbers on Fig 5.2 correspond to the
steps bellow.
Do not attach the cable ties to the three
saddles fitted under the tunnel cross
member until other parts of the loom have
been attached.
Do not run this cable down the passenger
bulkhead as it stays at the top just below the
scuttle panel.
3
4
5
6
Run the loom under and along the
upper rear wishbone mounts (Fig 5.2).
Run the loom down the upright chassis
section between the upper and lower
arm brackets (Fig 5.2).
The loom now runs to right hand corner
and then along the rear cross member
to the center of the car (Fig 5.2).
The plugs for the rear lights should sit in
the center and there should be two
wires which reach the fuel pump (Fig
5.3).
5
Locate the ECU plug on the engine
harness (Fig 6.4).
6.1
2
Pump
Separate the wires for the starter
solenoid (Brown, Black and White), and
crank position sender (black sheathed)
from the rest of the harness (Fig 6.2).
6.4
6
7
Lights
Push the wires through the hole in the
scuttle panel situated on the drivers
side.
Secure the grommet to the scuttle panel
(Fig 6.5).
5.3
6
Fitting -Engine Loom
NOTE:
You may prefer to fit the rest of the wiring
later on in the build. Ensure that all the
required saddle clamps are fitted before
engine installation.
ump
6.2
3
4
Run them down the tunnel side of the
passenger bulkhead and attach to the
saddle clamps, pull the wires through to
leave as much slack as possible.
The water temperature sender (Green
and Black) for the instruments is
situated on the passenger side this
connects to the thermostat housing (Fig
6.3).
6.5
8
9
Locate from the engine loom the
alternator
wires
(Brown
and
Brown/Yellow), oil pressure (White) and
water temperature sender for the ECU
(Blue and Black)
Run them down the driver’s side attach
to saddles fitted in section 2.1. Use the
full length of the wire so that it can
connect to the alternator (Fig 6.6).
The installation of the dash is best done
after the body is fitted. It can be fitted now
and then unplugged until required.
1
Connect the engine harness to the main
harness. The two are joined by three
plugs as can be seen on the wiring
diagram (Fig 6.1).
6.3
6.6
Wiring Loom
3•9
10 Locate the brake light switch wires
(Green x2) and run them down the
driver’s side bulkhead to the brake
pressure switch fitted in chapter two.
11 Fit the large blue fuse on the driver’s
side of the tunnel just above the
bulkhead (Fig 6.7).
NOTE:
Any earthing straps that do not reach a
specific earthing point should be fixed to a
convenient point on the chassis with a cap
screw and rivsert into the chassis.
6.9
6.7
12 Locate the ‘coil’ plug on the loom and
temporally position it near the blue fuse
it does not need to be connected or
secured until the engine is fitted (Fig
6.8).
14 Locate the earthing eyelet and mount it
on to the stud welded to the chassis
brace in front of the passenger side
bulkhead (Fig 6.10).
15 Locate the Master switch wires on the
main chassis harness (green x2 and
Black). There position should be on top
of the scuttle panel. If not run them up
through one of the grommets.
7 Fitting -Dash &
Instruments
NOTE:
Proceed to step 8 for digital dash fitment.
Locate the dashboard from your parts
along with the clock set or digital dash
depending on what you have chosen
(Fig 7.1).
1
6.10
6.8
13 Locate and separate the fuel injection
signal wires from the loom place them
over to the driver’s side not securing
until the engine is fitted (Fig 6.9).
A.
Master Switch
B.
Battery
C.
Starter Motor
D.
Chassis Earth
16 Run the three master switch wires to
the driver’s side of the scuttle (GRP
body part). Along the scuttle panel. (see
wire loom layout at the beginning of the
chapter).Secure with saddle clamps and
cable ties.
7.1
Mount the gauges in to the dash, the
smaller ones have a screw on cap, the
large one a clamping bracket (Fig 7.2).
2
A
D
7.2
3
C
B
4
Fit the ON, OFF and FOG switches to
the dash, and warning lights.
Locate the dash harness from your
parts and connect up to the back of
Wiring Loom
the clocks. Refer to the wiring diagram
(Fig 7.3).
3•10
scuttle panel to the master switch (Fig
9.2) and (Fig 9.3)
8.2
6
7.3
Connect the dash harness to the
ignition/starter harness. With the 16 pin
plug.
6 Connect the starter harness to the main
chassis harness. Using the 12 pin plug
7 Secure the wires neatly with cable ties
and saddle clamps where required.
8 Secure dash panel to the scuttle by
drilling five 5mm holes through the dash
panel and into the scuttle.
9 Enlarge the holes in the scuttle to 7mm
10 Fit five M5 rivserts into the scuttle.
11 Secure the dash with M5 x 16mm dome
head screws.
7
5
8
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
Fitting -Digital Dash
9
Fit the ON, OFF and FOG switches to the
dash, and warning lights.
Connect the Ignition/start harness to
the ON, OFF and FOG switches.
Connect the dash harness to the
ignition/start harness with the 16 pin
plug.
Connect the Ignition/start harness to
the main chassis harness with the 12 pin
plug.
Offer the dash board up to the scuttle
and temporarily fix in place.
Secure dash panel to the scuttle by
drilling five 5mm holes through the dash
panel and into the scuttle.
Enlarge the holes in the scuttle to 7mm
Fit five M5 rivserts into the scuttle.
Secure the dash with M5 x 16mm cap
screws.
9.1
9.2
3
Run the earth cable from the battery
negative through the passenger
bulkhead to the earthing position in the
engine bay (Fig 9.4).
Fitting -Battery Cables
NOTE:
The battery is mounted in the passenger
footwell and the battery master cut off
switch is mounted on the driver’s side of the
scuttle. Do Not fit the switches now, this is
done in chapter 9.
9.3
8.1
1
2
3
4
5
Locate the digital dash from your parts
along with the dash board.
Remove the dust caps from the
connectors on the back of the digital
unit.
Position the unit on to the dash board
(Fig 8.1) and secure at the back with
three M4x10mm cap head screws (Fig
8.2).
Plug the two round connectors of the
dash harness to the digital dash.
Fit the four menu switches in there
holes on the dash board and plug them
into the dash harness.
1
2
Mount the starter cable from the starter
motor to the master switch possition,
through the passenger bulkhead,
through the scuttle panel and along the
top of the scuttle panel (Fig 9.1).
Run the shorter battery cable from the
battery up through the grommet in the
9.4
4
The wires for the master switch need to
be run along the top of the scuttle panel
to the right hand side of the scuttle (Fig
9.5).
Wiring Loom
3•11
9.5
NOTE:
The fitting of the ECU and connection of the
sender wires will be covered in the engine
chapter.
Fitment and connection of the light units
and master switch will be covered in the
body work chapter
Revision 74
Chapter 4
Suspension & Steering Rack
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
Standard Parts ................................................................ 1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING OF SUSPENSION AND STEERING ......................... 3
1
Fitting-Steering Rack............................................ 3
2
Fitting-Front Wishbones ....................................... 3
3
Fitting-Springs/Dampers ....................................... 5
4
5
6
7
8
9
Fitting-Front Uprights .......................................... 5
Preparing-Rose Joints .......................................... 6
Fitting-Rear Lower Arms ...................................... 6
Fitting-Rear Upper Arms ...................................... 7
Fitting-Rear Dampers & Springs ............................ 7
Fitting-Rear Uprights ........................................... 7
INTRODUCTION
The Westfield Aero Race Car comes with fully independent front and rear suspension, featuring unequal length adjustable wishbones,
aluminium uprights, adjustable dampers and ride height.
Tools Required
Standard Parts
A. 5/8” Spanner x2
A. M8 x 25 Set Screw
x5
B.
13mm Spanner x2
B.
M10 x 25 Set Screws
x4
C.
17mm Spanner x2
C.
7/16” x 2 ½” Bolt
x18
D. 19mm Spanner x2
D. 7/16” x 4” Bolt
x2
E.
26mm Spanner x2
E.
7/16” x 4 ¾”” Bolt
x4
F.
13mm Socket x2
F.
7/16” x 9 ½” Stud
x2
G. 17mm Socket x2
G. M8 Washers
x8
H. 19mm Socket x2
H. 7/16” Washers STD
x56
I.
26mm Socket x2
I.
7/16” Washers Large
x8
J.
5/8” Socket x2
J.
M8 Nyloc Nut
x4
K.
Torque Wrench
K.
7/16”Nyloc Nut
x26
L.
Ratchet
L.
M10 Metalock Nuts
x6
M. Thread Lock
N. Ruler/Tape Measure
M. M12 Metalock Nut
x2
Suspension & Steering Rack
Parts Required
A. Lower Front Wishbone x2
B.
Upper Front Wishbone x2
C.
Lower Ball joints
A
B
D. Upper ball joints
E.
Track Rod Ends
F.
Front Damper x2
G. Front Spring x2
H. Steering Rack
I.
Track Rod Lock Nut x2
J.
Rack Mounts
K.
Rack Rubbers
L.
Front Upright Assembly
C
M. Lower Rear Wishbone x2
E
F
D
N. Upper Rear Wishbone x2
O. Rose Joints & Inserts x4
P.
Rear Damper Unit x2
Q. Rear Uprights
H
I
K
N
L
J
M
O
P
Q
G
4•2
4•3 Suspension & Steering Rack
FITTING OF SUSPENSION AND STEERING
1 Fitting -Steering Rack
1
Place the racks rubber mounts [K] on to
the Steering Rack [H].
NOTE:
The mounts are sided, with one mount being
larger than the other.
2
3
Slide the pressed steel mounts [J] over
the rubbers. If they are tight some spray
grease can be used to ease fitting.
Position the rack on its mounts at the
front of the chassis (Fig 1.1).
1.1
4
Using four M8x25mm set screws, four
M8 nylocs and eight M8 washers secure
the rack to its mounts. Finally tighten to
27Nm (20 ft/lbs).
NOTE:
Progressively tighten the bolts for each
mount rather than fully tightening one at a
time.
5
6
Screw track rod lock nuts [I] on both
sides of the rack arms.
Screw the track rod ends [E] on to the
arms until there is about four or five
threads left showing on the arm (Fig
1.2).
NOTE:
NOTE:
Do not tighten locking nut at this stage.
With the wishbone positioned correctly the
mounting bracket for the damper should be
at the top of the wishbone. See exploded
diagram above.
2 Fitting -Front Wishbones
1
Position the front lower wishbone [A] on
to its mounts at the front of the chassis
(Fig 2.1).
2
3
Locate two 7/16” x 2 ½” bolts from your
parts. Place a standard washer on each
bolt.
Insert the bolts through the chassis
brackets securing the wishbone to the
chassis.
NOTE:
Insert the bolts so as the nuts are on the
inside of both brackets. At this stage do not
fully tighten the bolts.
1.2
2.1
Suspension & Steering Rack
4
Place a standard washer on each bolt
and secure with a 7/16” nyloc nut (Fig
2.2).
2.2
5
6
Locate the lower ball joint [C] from your
parts.
Fit the lower ball joint [C] to the lower
wishbone using M10x25mm bolts
securing with M10 metaloc nuts. The
nuts should be on the bottom of the
wishbone. Torque to 38Nm (28ft/lbs)
(Fig 2.3).
2.3
7
Position the front upper wishbone [B]
on to the chassis brackets.
NOTE:
The upper wishbone is not symmetrical. It
should be fitted so that the ball joint tube is
off set towards the rear.
8
Locate two 7/16”x2 ½” bolts from your
parts, place a standard washer on each
bolt.
4•4
Suspension & Steering Rack
4•5
Insert the bolts through the chassis
brackets securing the wishbone to the
chassis.
10 Place a washer on each bolt and secure
with 7/16” nylocs.
9
NOTE:
4 Fitting -Front Uprights
Position the damper with its adjustment
knob on the inside and the adjustment
thread at the lower wishbone end.
NOTE:
4
NOTE:
Insert the bolt so as the nuts are on the
inside of both brackets. At this stage do not
fully tighten the bolts.
11 Locate the front upper ball joint [D] and
its locking nut. Screw the locking nut to
the ball joint almost to the end of the
thread.
12 Apply copper grease to the thread and
fit the upper ball joint [D] to the upper
arm [B]. Temporarily set it in a position
so that the face of the wishbone is
55mm from the center of the ball joint
(Fig 2.4).
Fit a washer on each bolt and secure
with a nyloc nut do not fully tighten at
this stage (Fig 3.1).
The uprights are supplied as a complete
assembly with hub disc and calipers. Cast
into the upright is either RH or LH behind the
bottom ball joint.
1
2
3
Identify the correct upright for the given
side and locate it to the lower ball joint
thread [C] see exploded view.
Place the M12 safety washer on to the
ball joint thread.
Secure with an M12 metaloc supplied
on the ball joint. Torque to 34Nm (25
ft/lbs) (Fig 4.1).
3.1
5
With the second bolt, position the lower
mount of the damper to the lower
wishbone repeating the process for the
upper mount (Fig 3.2).
4.1
NOTE:
Ensure that the safety washer is fitted in the
recess cast into the upright.
2.4
4
13 Repeat the process for the other side of
the car.
3 Fitting -Springs/Dampers
NOTE:
Locate the upright into the top ball joint
[D] and secure with a metaloc nut.
3.2
NOTE:
6
Repeat the process for the other side of
the car.(Fig 3.3).
Direct pressure to the ball joint top may be
required to stop the ball spinning in its
housing. Torque to 34Nm (25 ft/lbs).
Firstly identify the correct front suspension
dampers and springs. Front dampers come
in a box with a part number 1105 on the
side. Rear dampers come with the part
number 1106. The rear dampers are longer
as are the rear springs.
1
2
3
Locate two 7/16”x2 ½” bolts from your
parts and place a washer on each.
Position the damper [F] between the
upper chassis bracket
Insert the bolts and at the same time
place a washer between the damper
bush and the chassis bracket. See
exploded view.
3.3
5
Fix the track rod end [E] to the steering
arm, the ball joint pin should go up
through the steering arm. Attach with
M10 metaloc nut supplied with the
track rod end. Torque to 38Nm
(28ft/lbs) (Fig 4.2).
Suspension & Steering Rack
4•6
4.2
5 Preparing -Rose Joints
NOTE:
On all rear wishbones there is a rose joint
that mounts to the upright and allows
adjustment for setting the rear camber and
toe. These rose joints require a reducing
bush to be pressed into the spherical
bearing.
1
Push the reducer in by hand. If the bush
will not go in use a vice to gently push it
in. Ensure the bush goes in square (Fig
5.1).
5.1
2
3
6 Fitting -Rear Lower Arms
Put a lock nut on to the rose joint
thread.
Screw a rose joint into each lower
wishbone [M] complete with locking
nut, until there are four threads
showing (Fig 5.2).
1
2
5.2
Position the lower wishbone between
the lower chassis brackets (Fig 5.2). The
rose
joint is at the back of the car if the
wishbone is positioned correctly.
Locate from your parts two 7/16”x2 ½”
bolts and place a standard washer on
each.
Suspension & Steering Rack
3
4•7
Insert the bolts through the bushes. The
forward bolt is passed through the rear
bulkhead (Fig 6.1).
1
Place the rear damper unit [P] in its top
mount, behind the rear bulkhead.
1
NOTE:
The thread for the adjustable ride height
should be at the bottom.
2
3
The rear upright [Q] is attached to the
lower wishbone [M] first; use a 9 ½” x
7/16” stud with a standard washer on
either side and two small washers
between the arm and the upright (Fig
9.1).
Locate two 7/16” x2 ½” bolts from your
parts, place a standard washer on each
Insert the bolt through the bush placing
washers between the damper and the
bracket. See exploded view. (Fig 8.1).
6.1
4
5
Fit a washer on each bolt and secure the
bolts with 7/16” nyloc nuts.
Repeat the process for the other side.
9.1
2
7 Fitting -Rear Upper Arms
1
2
3
4
5
Fit a rose joint [O] to each of the upper
wishbones, complete with locking nuts
(see exploded view).
Position the rear upper wishbone [N]
between the mounts on the upper
section of the chassis.
Locate two 7/16”x4¾” bolts from your
parts and fit a standard washer to each.
Insert two bolts through the bushes,
facing inwards towards each other. The
front bolt is pushed in through the rear
bulkhead (Fig 7.1).
Secure the bolts with 7/16 nyloc nut. Do
not tighten at this stage.
3
8.1
4
5
Secure the bolts with 7/16” nyloc nuts,
do not fully tighten at this stage.
Repeat the process for the other side.
Secure with 7/16” nyloc nut, lightly
tighten the bolt for now and torque
when the car is sitting on its wheels.
Attach the top of the upright to the
upper wishbone [N], using a 4”x7/16”
bolt. The same bolt is used for the
bottom damper mount. Two standard
washers are used on the outside and
two small washers are fitted either side
of the upright (Fig 9.2).
NOTE:
The bottom of the damper is not attached at
this stage.
9 Fitting -Rear Uprights
NOTE:
The Westfield uprights are supplied as an
assembly with the hubs pre fitted. They have
casting marks on them for Left and Right as
are shown below.
9.2
4
Repeat the process for the other side.
NOTE:
7.1
NOTE:
The bolts will appear too long, this is for
mounting the fuel tank cage in chapter 7.
6
Repeat the process for the other side.
8 Fitting -Rear Dampers &
Springs
The suspension bolts should not have been
tightened yet. This is to be done when the
car is sitting on the ground and bearing the
weight of its components. See chapter 14
(Vehicle Set up).
Revision 37
Chapter 5
Differential and Rear Brakes
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
Standard Parts ................................................................ 1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
1
Fitting - Differential.............................................. 3
2
3
4
Fitting – Drive Shafts ........................................... 3
Fitting – Disk & Calliper........................................ 4
Fitting – Rollcage Supports ................................... 4
INTRODUCTION
Differential and Drive Shafts
The differential unit is fitted to the chassis via four metalastic bushes that are pre-fitted to the chassis. A stabilizing bracket is also used to
secure the differential housing.
The differential casing has been modified to allow it to fit into the chassis. This is worth noting if for any reason you need to source another
differential or if you supply your own.
Rear Braking System
The rear calipers used are a twin pot type and are not equipped with a hand brake mechanism.
Rollcage Support Side Impact.
The full rollcage fitted requires 18 mounting points. Four of these points do not intersect the chassis so in order to fit the cage, two additional
support bars are required. The nature of the fitment means that they must be fitted before the body work is fitted. Hence the reason for fitting
them in this section not the rollcage section.
Tools Required
Standard Parts
A. 5/8 Spanner x2
A. M12 x 65 Bolt
x2
B.
13mm Spanner x2
B.
M12 x 300 Stud
x1
C.
17mm Spanner x2
C.
M10 x 25 Set Screw
x2
D. 19mm Spanner x2
D. M10 x 45 Cap Screw
x4
E.
5/8 Socket x2
E.
M10 x 40 Cap Screw
x4
F.
13mm Socket x2
F.
M8 x 50 Cap Screw
x24
G. 17mm Socket x2
G. 7/16” x 2 ½”
x1
H. 19mm Socket x2
H. M12 Nyloc Nut
x2
I.
Torque Wrench
I.
M10 Nyloc Nut
x4
J.
Ratchet
J.
7/16” Nyloc Nut
x1
K.
Thread-Lock
K.
M12 Washer
x10
L.
Copper Grease
L.
M12 Spring Washer
x4
M. M10 Spring Washer
x4
M. 10mm Allen Key Driver
N. 8mm Allen Key Driver
O. 6mm Allen Key Driver
Differential and Rear Brakes
Parts Required
A. Rear Brakes Discs
B.
Rear Calipers
C.
Differential Unit
D. Left Drive Shaft
E.
Right Drive Shaft
F.
Stabilising Bracket
G. Rollcage Support
A
E
B
D
C
F
5•2
Revision 37
Differential and Rear Brakes
5•2
5•3 Differential and Rear Brakes
FITTING OF DIFFERENTIAL AND REAR BRAKES
1 Fitting - Differential
1
2
Locate two M12x65mm bolts from your
parts and fit a spring washer followed by
a standard washer to each.
Place the M12x65mm bolt into each of
the two top mounts (Fig1.1).
1.1
3
4
Before positioning the differential [C] a
washer needs to be fitted on the bolts,
the washer will sit between the
differential and the chassis bush.
Lift the differential into position taking
care not to knock the washers off the
inside of the bolts (Fig 1.2).
1.3
1.2
Screw in the top two bolts do not
tighten at this stage.
6 Locate from your parts the M12x300mm
stud
7 Position the stud into the lower chassis
bush differential mount.
8 Place a washer between the lower
mount of the differential casing and the
chassis bush and push the 300mm stud
partially into the differential housing.
9 Place a washer between the differential
and the other lower chassis bush.
10 Push the 300mm stud all the way
through.
11 Place a M12 washer on to both ends of
the lower differential stud.
12 Secure with M12 nyloc nuts. Torque to
54Nm (40 ft/lbs) and torque the top
bolts to 40Nm (30 ft/lbs) (Fig 1.3).
5
15 Locate a 7/16”x2 ½” bolt. Put a plain
washer on the bolt.
16 Insert the bolt through the chassis
bracket securing the stabilising bracket
to the chassis.
17 Place a washer on the end of the bolt
and secure with a nyloc nut. Touque to
27Nm (20 ft/lbs).
18 Undo the oil filler plug with a 10mm
allen key and fill the differential with
(type EP 80/90) oil (Fig 1.5).
13 Locate the stabilizing bracket [F] from
your parts. It is mounted on the rear of
the differential housing and is secured
to the chassis via a metalastic bush (Fig
1.4).
14 Attach the bracket to the differential
using two M10x25 set screws and spring
washers. The bracket should be
positioned so that the bush is at the
bottom. (torque to 27Nm (20 ft/lbs)
1.5
2 Fitting – Drive Shafts
NOTE:
The driveshaft’s are sided, with the right
hand one being slightly longer. They are also
marked LH and RH.
1.4
It may be necessary to undo the upper rose
joint of the upright to get the driveshaft into
position.
Differential and Rear Brakes
1
Place the drive shaft [D/E] on the hub of
the differential (Fig 2.1).
3.1
2
2.1
2
5•4
Offer the caliper [B] up to the hub
ensuring that the bleed nipple is at the
top (Fig 3.2).
4.1
3
The driveshaft’s are fixed using twelve
M8x50mm cap screws, which require
thread lock.
Fix the bars to the chassis with M10 x 40
cap screws secured with nyloc nuts on
the outside. The nuts will not be seen
once the body is on (Fig 4.2).
NOTE:
Tighten the cap screws progressively by
hand then torque up to34Nm (25ft/lbs)
3
Insert the cap screws into the wheel hub
(upright) fixing the driveshaft into
position put locktight onto the cap
screws.
3.2
4.2
3
4
Locate two M10x45 cap headed set
screws from your parts, place a M10
spring washer on each.
Insert the two set screws with thread
lock on each. Torque to 47Nm (35 ft/lbs)
(Fig 3.3).
2.2
4
Torque up the cap screws to 34Nm
(25ft/lbs), to do this the hub will need to
be held to stop it rotating, use a suitable
lever to do so (Fig 2.2).
3.3
3 Fitting – Disk & Calliper.
NOTE:
The discs have a protective coating on them
that must be removed before fitment. Use
white spirit or a proprietary brake cleaner if
preferred. Ensure the disc is completely
clean and dry before fitting the calipers.
1
Position the brake disc over the wheel
studs and against the hub (Fig 3.1).
4 Fitting – Rollcage Supports
1
2
Locate the support bars [G] from your
parts. They are handed so ensure when
fitting that you have the correct side.
They are fitted to the chassis in the
cockpit to either side of the seats
(Fig4.1).
4
Torque the bolts to 38Nm 28ft/lbs and
repeat the process for the other side.
Revision 20
Chapter 6
Flexible Brake Hoses
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING OF FLEXIABLE BRAKE LINES ............................... 3
1
2
Fitting – Front Lines ............................................ 3
Fitting – Rear Lines ............................................. 3
INTRODUCTION
The flexible brake hoses come in pairs, two front and two rear. The rear hoses are longer than the front two. The hoses are supplied with
locking nuts attached. The hoses fit directly into the calipers and do not require any adapters or hard lines. Copper washers are required to
create a seal between the caliper and the lines.
Tools Required
A.
13mm Spanners x2
B.
½” Spanner
C.
7/16” Spanner
Flexible Brake Hoses
Parts Required
A. Flexible Rear Brake hoses
B.
Flexible Front Brake hoses
A
B
6•2
6•3 Flexible Brake Hoses
FITTING OF FLEXIABLE BRAKE HOSES
1 Fitting – Front Hoses
1
2
3
5
Locate the two front hoses [B] from
your parts. The end of the hose without
locking nuts are the ends that fit into
the caliper.
Remove the dust caps and ensure that
the copper washers are on the threads.
Screw one of the front hoses into the
caliper. Thread it on by hand and do up
pinch tight with a 13mm spanner (Fig
1.1).
Position the other end of the hose into
the mounting hole in the chassis (Fig
2.3).
1.3
NOTE:
Do not over tighten. It is better to have it too
loose at first and then tighten more later if a
leak is detected.
8
2.3
6
Repeat the process for the other side of
the car.
Use the removed lock nut to fit the hose
to the chassis before connecting the
hard steel line to the flexible (Fig 2.4).
2 Fitting – Rear Hoses
1
1.1
NOTE:
Do not over tighten. It is better to have it too
loose at first and then tighten more later if a
leak is detected.
4
5
2
Locate the two rear hoses [A] from your
parts. The end of the hose without
locking nuts are the ends that fit into
the caliper.
Remove the dust caps and ensure that
the copper washers are fitted (Fig 2.1).
2.4
Remove the locking nut from the outer
end of the brake hose.
Position the other end of the of the
hose into the mounting hole in the
chassis (Fig 1.2).
7
Bend the hard steel line into position so
that the flared end mates with flexible
hose. Thread the union on to the
flexible line and do up pinch tight.
NOTE:
2.1
3
Screw one of the rear hoses into the
caliper. Thread it on by hand and do up
pinch tight with a spanner (Fig 2.2).
1.2
6
7
Use the removed lock nut to fit the hose
to the chassis before connecting the
hard steel line to the flexible (Fig 1.3).
Bend the hard steel line into position so
that the flared end mates with the
flexible line. Thread the union on to the
flexible line and do up pinch tight.
2.2
4
Remove the locking nut from the outer
end of the brake hose.
Do not over tighten. It is better to have it too
loose at first and then tighten more later if a
leak is detected.
8
Repeat the process for the other side of
the car.
Revision 82
Chapter 7
Fuel Tank & Supply System
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
Standard Parts ................................................................ 1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING FUEL SYSTEM .................................................... 3
1
Fitting – Tank Frame ............................................ 3
2
Fitting – H/P Pump & Filter ................................... 3
3
4
5
6
7
8
Fitting – Swirl Pot ................................................ 4
Fitting – L/P Pump............................................... 4
Fitting – Fuel Hose .............................................. 5
Assembly – Fuel Tank .......................................... 5
Fitting – Fuel Tank .............................................. 5
Fitting - Fuel Hose ............................................... 6
INTRODUCTION
The fuel system consists of a fuel tank for fuel storage. A low pressure pump is used to deliver fuel to the 1 liter capacity swirl pot. A fuel
injection pump then delivers fuel to the engine from the swirl. Any unused fuel is returned to the swirl pot via a return line. The car is not
equipped with a sender gauge as standard.
When fitting these components, care needs to be taken in order to prevent damage or leaks from the parts. It is also essential that the fuel
hoses used confirm to the British Standard BS AU108/2L4/C4/R. The Tank is fitted to a frame. This frame is mounted to the upper rear
wishbone mounts. The fuel pump and filter are mounted at the rear of the car behind the fuel tank .Do not use metal clips to attach fuel hose
to the chassis, make sure that fuel hose is kept away from sharp edges and moving parts.
Tools Required
Standard Parts
A. 5/8” Spanner
A. M5 x 16 Dome Headed Screws
x4
B.
8, 10, 14 and 30mm Spanner
B.
M6 x 16 Set Screws
x4
C.
5/8” Socket x2
C.
M6 Washer STD
x4
D. Ratchet
D. M5 Rivserts
x4
E.
Rivsert Tool
E.
M6 Rivserts
x4
F.
3mm Allen Key
F.
Jubaliee Clips
x11
G. 4.1mm 7mm & 5mm Drill bits
H. Rivet Gun
I.
Flat Blade Screw Driver
J.
PTFE Tape
K.
Sharp Knife or Pipe Cutter
Fuel Tank & Supply System
Parts Required
A
A. Fuel Tank
B.
Tank Mounting Frame
C.
Tank Mount Straps x2
D. Screw in Pipe Unions
E.
H/P (High Pressure) Fuel Pump
F.
Fuel Filter
G. Flexible Fuel Pipe
H. Foam Tape
I.
Aluminium Boss &’O’ Ring
J.
Ventilation Union
K.
Gauze Filter
L.
Fuel Pump Bracket
B
M. Fuel filter Bracket
N. Swirl Pot
O. L/P (low Pressure) Pump
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
O
M
N
O
7•2
7•3 Fuel Tank & Supply System
FITTING FUEL SYSTEM
1 Fitting – Tank Frame
Fuel Tank Mounting Frame [B]
NOTE:
If you are fitting anti roll bars see chapter 15
before fitting the fuel tank frame.
1
Locate the frame [B] from your parts
and note its location behind the rear
bulkhead as shown in the diagram on
the previous page (Fig 1.1).
4
1.1
2
3
4
Remove the nyloc nut securing the
th
7/16 bolt for the upper wishbone.
Knock the bolts partially out so the cage
can be slid into position.
Knock the bolts back into position and
secure with nyloc nuts and a washer.
2 Fitting – H/P Pump & Filter
1
2
Locate the alluminium bracket [L] for
fitting the fuel pump.
Mark two points 10mm from the edges
across the center line of the flat of the
bracket (Fig 2.1).
5
6
7
Drill two 5mm holes at the points
marked.
10 Fit two M5 rivserts into the holes drilled.
11 Secure the filter to the fuel tank
mounting frame with M5x16mm dome
headed setscrews.
NOTE:
The filter is mounted to the tank mounting
frame [B]. And the H/P (high pressure) pump
[E] is mounted on the upper chassis rail.
8
Mark two points 82mm apart on the
underside of the tank mounting frame
80mm from far left of the mounting
frame (Fig 2.2 & 2.3).
2.2
2.1
3
Locate the fuel pump [E] and filter [F]
from your parts.
Wrap both the filter and the pump with
foam tube.
Place the bracket [L] over the pump.
Place the bracket [M] over the fuel
filter.
9
Drill two 7mm holes at the points
marked
2.3
12 Position the H/P pump on the chassis
cross member 120mm from the upper
left hand wishbone mount (Fig 2.4).
13 Use the holes in the alluminium bracket
as a guide to mark the position of the
holes.
14 Drill two 7mm holes at the points
marked.
15 Fit two M5 rivserts into the holes.
16 Secure the H/P pump to the rivserts
with
M5x16mm
dome
headed
setscrews.
Fuel Tank & Supply System
7•4
2.4
17 Connect the fuel pump wires to the fuel
pump (Fig 2.5).
2.5
9
3 Fitting – Swirl Pot
1
Locate from your parts the swirl pot [N]
and three rubber mounting bushes.
4 Fitting – L/P Pump
1
NOTE:
The swirl pot sits behind the fuel tank and is
attached to the fuel tank frame and the
lower chassis.
3.1
5
2
3
4
Mark two points on the top rail of the
tank mounting frame 90mm apart and
80mm from the right hand edge of the
frame (Fig 3.1).
Drill two 7mm holes at the points
marked and fit two M5 rivserts into
them.
Screw two of the rubber bushes into the
rivserts.
Position the swirl pot on to the three
mounting bushes and secure with nyloc
nuts.
6
7
8
Mark the position of the lower
mounting hole on the longitudinal
chassis rail according to (Fig 3.2).
Locate from your parts the Facet L/P
pump and two rubber mounting bushes
and earth strap.
NOTE:
An earthing strap needs to be fitted to the
chassis tag before fitting the rubber
mounting bush.
3.2
2
Drill a 7mm hole at the point marked
and secure an M5 rivsert into the hole.
Screw the remaining rubber bush into
the rivsert.
Locate three M5 nyloc nuts from your
parts.
3
Secure the two rubber bushes to the
two tags welded to the chassis near the
upper wishbone mount, using M5 nyloc
nuts.
Possition the pump to the rubber
bushes, fit the earth strap over the
threaded part of the rubber bush. (Fig)
Fuel Tank & Supply System
7•5
2
aluminium boss [I], ‘O’ ring and gauze
filter [K].
Wrap PTFE tape round the small union
[D] and thread it into the small threaded
insert on the swirl pot (Fig 6.1).
6.4
4.1
4
Secure the pump with two M5 nyloc
nuts.
6
Wrap PTFE tape round the larger union
[D] and screw it in to the aluminium
boss [I] using a 14mm spanner (Fig 6.5).
5 Fitting – Fuel Hose
6.1
NOTE:
Use the fuel system layout on page 7.4 to
familiarize yourself with the layout of the
hoses. Fit all the fuel tube before the tank is
fitted apart from the feed from the tank and
the return to it.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Position three saddle clamps along the
right hand side of the fuel tank
mounting frame. Two 10mm from each
corner and one in the centre.
Position two saddles on the left hand
side of the mounting frame 100mm
apart with the first saddle 10mm from
the rear of the mounting frame.
Use the fuel system layout on page 7.4
to route the fuel lines.
Connect some flexible hose to the union
on the bottom of the swirl, rout the
hose along to the H/P pump and cut to
the length so that the hose is routed as
per the diagram on page 7.4.
Place two jubilee clips on to the hose
and push the hose on to the H/P pump
union.
Possition the jubilee clips over the
unions and tighten to secure the hose to
the union.
Repeat the process for the remaining
hoses following the diagram on page
7.4.
NOTE:
The hard lines were fitted in chapter 2
section 7. Use the lower line for the FEED
and the upper for the RETURN
6 Assembly – Fuel Tank
1
Locate the fuel tank [A] from your parts
along with the two unions [D/J], the
3
Insert the gauze filter [K] into the swirl
pot, it needs to be screwed in at the end
(Fig 6.2).
6.5
7
Wrap PTFE tape round the ventilation
union [J] and screw it into the threaded
insert on the top right hand side of the
tank (Fig 6.6).
6.2
4
Insert the ‘O’ ring into the insert which
seals the filter and alluminium boss (Fig
6.3).
6.6
7 Fitting – Fuel Tank
NOTE:
6.3
5
Screw in the alluminium boss [I] by hand
and pinch tighten with a 30mm spanner,
being careful not to damage the ‘O’ ring
(Fig 6.4).
The fuel tank is positioned centrally on its
frame. The back of the tank sits against the
raised section of the frame
1
2
3
Position the fuel tank on to the frame
and note the sections of the frame that
the tank sits on or against.
Remove the fuel tank and apply foam
tape [H] to the contact areas.
Place the tank on the frame noting its
orientation, the ventilation union should
Fuel Tank & Supply System
be on the right hand side and the filler
neck topside (Fig 7.1).
7.3
8 Fitting - Fuel Hose
7.1
1
4
Locate the tank straps [C] from your
parts and place them over the tank
lining them up with the rivserts
mounted in the chassis and on the
frame (Fig 7.2).
2
Fit a length of fuel hose from the large
union on the tank to the free side of the
L/P fuel pump, ensuring there is enough
length to secure the hose to the chassis.
Fit a length of fuel hose from the small
union on the tank to the RETURN from
the swirl pot (the upper most outlet on
the swirl pot.
Secure a 400mm length of fuel hose to
the breather outlet and route to the roll
cage.
NOTE:
7.2
Mark the position of the rivsert onto the
strap and drill with a 7mm bit.
6 Fix the top mount with a M6 bolt, spring
washer and repair washer.
7 The lower mount has to be drilled. Mark
a center point in the middle of the
aluminium and along the center of the
chassis tube.
8 Drill with a 7mm bit through the
aluminium and into the front face of the
chassis tube (not all the way through).
9 Remove the strap and enlarge the hole
to 9mm.
10 Fit an M6 rivsert into the hole and
secure.
11 Refit the strap with M6x25 bolts, spring
washer and standard washer (Fig 7.3).
5
Secure the hose by riveting saddle clamps on
the chassis, then use cable ties. Be careful
not to tighten too much as you may squash
the hose
7•6
Revision 34
Chapter 8
Prop Shaft & Steering Column
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
Standard Parts ................................................................ 1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING OF PROPSHAFT & STEERING COLUMN ................. 3
1
2
3
Fitting - Propshaft ............................................... 3
Fitting – Steering Column ..................................... 3
Fitting – Steering Wheel....................................... 4
INTRODUCTION
The propshaft must be fitted prior to fitment of the engine and gearbox. The propshaft has a sliding joint and four-bolt flange. The end with a
four-bolt flange connection is fitted to the differential. The sliding coupling will be fitted onto the gearbox output shaft during the engine and
gearbox installation.
The steering column consists of two separate bearings mounted to the chassis, which support the column.
Tools Required
Standard Parts
A. 13mm Spanner x2
A. M8 x 35mm Set Screw
x2
B.
8mm Spanner
B.
M8 x 25mm Set Screw
x2
C.
13mm Socket x2
C.
M5 x 16mm Cap Head
x3
D. Ratchet
D. M8 Nylocs
x4
E.
Torque Wrench
E.
M6 Nylocs
x3
F.
6mm Drill Bit
F.
M8 STD Washer
x8
G. 3mm Allen Key
H. Wheel Chocks
I.
Masking Tape
J.
Pair of Compases
Prop Shaft & Steering Column
Parts Required
A. Propshaft
B.
Steering Column
C.
Spacer Plate
D. Bushes
E.
Bush Housing
F.
Steering Wheel
A
C
B
D
E
F
8•2
8•3 Prop Shaft & Steering Column
FITTING OF PROPSHAFT & STEERING COLUMN
1 Fitting - Propshaft
1
Locate the propshaft [A] from your parts
and position the flanged end against the
differential input, feeding the propshaft
in (Fig 1.1).
1.1
2
4
Twist the propshaft round until the
holes in the propshaft line up with the
holes in the differential.
Temporarily secure the other end with a
cable tie until you are ready to fit the
gearbox (Fig 1.3).
4
5
NOTE:
The flange holes in the differential are not
symmetrical. The prop shaft and the
differential also locate on a spigot to make
sure the two are concentric.
3
Apply loctite to the propshaft bolts
before inserting them. Torque down to
47Nm (35 lbs/ft) (Fig 1.2).
between the chassis and the bush. Use
M8x35mm Set Screws (Fig 2.1).
Secure with M8 nyloc nuts. The nuts
should be on the bottom with the bolts
pushed through from above.
Position the other bush and housing on
the top column mount, situated on the
19mm tube section that sits under the
scuttle. Mount using M8x25mm bolts
(Fig 2.2).
1.3
2 Fitting – Steering Column
1
2
Locate the steering column [B] from
your parts along with the spacer [C] and
bolts required.
Locate from your parts the column
bushes [D] and the bush housings [E].
The bushes need to be pressed into the
housing. If it is not possible to do this by
hand then gently press them in with a
vice.
1.2
2.2
6
7
NOTE:
In order to tighten the propshaft bolts, the
rear wheels must be locked. This would
normally be done by applying the hand
brake; as this is not possible on the race car
as there is no hand brake. Do this by
lowering the rear of the car with the wheels
on and using chocks to stop rotation. If you
are working under the car ensure it can not
fall of its stands!
Secure the Set Screws with M8 nyloc
nuts. The nuts should be on the top of
the bracket with the bolts pushed
through from the bottom.
Now slide the column through the
bushes. The end with the flange is the
steering wheel end (Fig 2.3).
2.1
3
Mount the lower bush and housing to
the chassis, putting the spacer plate
2.3
Prop Shaft & Steering Column
3 Fitting – Steering Wheel
NOTE:
The steering wheel is supplied with no holes
drilled. Three holes need to be drilled
according to the manual.
1
2
3
4
5
6
Locate the steering wheel from your
parts. The wheel has a center mark
punched into the rear face of the wheel.
Cover the rear face of the wheel with
masking tape leaving a small patch for
the center point to be left showing.
Using the diagram below mark a 50mm
PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter) with three
holes evenly spaced
Drill three 6mm holes through the
steering wheel. Be careful to drill the
holes accurately.
Repeat the process for the flange on the
steering column being careful to get it
centered correctly.
With both holes drilled bolt the steering
wheel to the column using M5x16mm
cap head bolts with nyloc nuts.
8•4
Revision 100
Chapter 9
Body Work
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
Standard Parts ................................................................ 1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING OF GRP BODY WORK .......................................... 3
1
Placement – Rear Section ..................................... 3
2
Placement – Scuttle & Bonnet ............................... 3
3
Fixing – Rear panel .............................................. 3
4
Fixing – Rear panel .............................................. 4
5
Fixing – Scuttle ................................................... 4
6
Fixing – Rear Arches ............................................ 5
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Fixing – Bonnet & Nose ....................................... 5
Fixing – Bonnet Catch .......................................... 6
Fixing – Lower Body ............................................ 6
Fixing – Lighting.................................................. 6
Cut off switches .................................................. 7
Exhaust – Cut Out ............................................... 7
Fitting-Closing Panels .......................................... 8
Fitting – Boot Panels ............................................ 8
Cutting – Cooling Vent ......................................... 9
INTRODUCTION
The body work supplied is a GRP composite which has been lightened specifically for the race car. The separate sections of the body are
located with blocks moulded in. This makes lining up the different sections much easier.
The external finish on the GRP is known as gel coat. Scratches can be polished out as with conventional painted finishes or if the scratch is
deep additional gel coat can be added and blended into the original by sanding and polishing.
The body can be waxed as with conventional finishes to help protect it from the elements.
Tools Required
Standard Parts
A. 4.1mm Drill Bit
A. M8x16mm Set Screw
x3
B.
5mm Drill Bit
B.
M6 x 45mm Set Screw
x2
C.
6mm Drill Bit
C.
M6 x 20mm Set Screw
x30
D. 8mm Drill Bit
D. M4 x 16 Dome Headed Screws
x4
E.
10mm Drill Bit
E.
M6 Nyloc Nut
x26
F.
12mm Drill Bit
F.
M4 Nyloc Nut
x4
G. 85mm Hole Saw
G. M4 Repair Washer
x4
H. 55mm Hole Saw
H. M6 Repair Washer
x52
I.
22mm Hole Saw
I.
M6 Spring Washer
x4
J.
7mm Spanner
J.
M6 STD Washer
x4
K.
8mm Spanner
K.
M8 Spring Washer
x3
L.
10mm Spanner
L.
M8 STD Washer
x3
M. 13mm Spanner
N. Marking Tools
O. Masking Tape
P.
Selection of Clamps
Q. Jig Saw and Fine Blade
R.
Wet & Dry 180/240/400/800 grit
S.
Rivsert Tool
T.
3mm Allen Key
U. Flat Blade Screw Driver
Body Work
Parts Required
A. Rear Section
B.
Rear Arches x2
C.
Scuttle
D. Bonnet
E.
Nose Cone
F.
Nose Cone Bracket
A
G. Over Center Catch x4 (Bonnet Catch)
H. Rear Light x2
I.
Dzus Fastener x2
J.
Rear closing panels
B
C
E
F
G
H
I
J
D
9•2
Body Work
9•3
FITTING OF GRP BODY WORK
1 Placement – Rear Section
1
2
3
4
With the help of an assistant position
the rear section [A] over the chassis. It is
best done by tilting the front up in the
air at about 45°.
It should be possible to hook the lower
rear edge under the rear of the chassis
rail.
Lower the front down carefully over the
chassis, listen for interference so as not
to damage any panels.
The body sides then clip over the chassis
side rails.
NOTE:
If the panels are not fitting correctly, loosen
the clamps and reposition as required. It
pays to take the time to get this just right
before fixing anything.
2.1
2
Place the bonnet [E] on to its locating
blocks (Fig 2.2).
NOTE:
The 400mm offset from the bulkhead is a
guide. Check the shut lines of the panels are
correct. 400mm dimension can be ( + - 5mm)
5
2.3
4
With the body resting on the chassis,
adjust the body to achieve a 400mm
offset from the front edge of the rear
bulkhead to the inside lip of the rear
panel and clamp in position.
3 Fixing – Rear panel
2.2
3
NOTE:
Do not fit any rivets at this stage, just use
clamps to temporarily hold the panels down.
Check the fit and gaps of the panels to
each other, also check that the all the
panels are centered to the chassis (Fig
2.3).
Guide dimension offset for
rear body section
2 Placement – Scuttle &
Bonnet
1
Place the scuttle [D] in position onto its
mounting blocks. There are two on each
side of the side panels (Fig 2.1).
Finally recheck the 400mm offset from
the rear bulkhead to the front lip of the
rear panel.
1
Remove the bonnet and drill a 4.1mm
hole through the pre-drilled hole in the
front upper face of the side panels into
the chassis. The rear hole is not pre
drilled; position it about 25mm forward
from the scuttle face (Fig 3.1).
400mm
Body Work
9•4
NOTE:
The section of the body that covers the
upper rollcage mount needs to be cut off to
allow fitment of the cage
6
Remove the section of the rear body
work with a jig saw or similar, using a
fine blade (Fig 3.4).
3.1
2
4.1
Counter sink the holes drilled and fit
4mm countersunk rivets into the holes
and pull up with a rivet gun.
2
Drill the remaining two holes in the
chassis, through the pre drilled holes in
the body, just before the rear scuttle
mounting block (Fig 3.5).
NOTE:
Do not remove the scuttle until the rivets are
secured.
3.4
3
The panel may require pulling down to
meet the chassis top rail. If this is
required use a G clamp and a piece of
wood to pull the two together (Fig 3.2).
7
Working on the side panels drill four
4.1mm holes along both sides of the
engine bay, space at about 230mm (Fig
3.5).
4.2
3
Counter sink the holes and secure with
two 4mm counter sunk rivets.
5 Fixing – Scuttle
1
3.2
4
Drill two 4.1mm holes into the side of
the chassis through the body (Fig 3.3).
2
8
Counter sink the holes drilled and
secure with 4mm counter sunk rivets.
3
NOTE
Check the body for center alignment and the
400mm offset before drilling
5
3.5
Counter sink the holes and secure with
4mm counter sunk rivets.
4 Fixing – Rear panel
4
NOTE:
Before removing the scuttle it is advisable to
mark the position of the front edge on the
side panel.
Place the scuttle back onto its mounting
blocks. Mark the position of the rivserts
onto the scuttle.
Drill two 6.5mm hole in the scuttle
flange for the fitting bolts that secure to
the chassis rivserts.
Locate two M6x20mm setscrews from
your parts along with two M6 repair
washers and two M6 spring washers
Place the spring washer on the
setscrews followed by the repair washer
secure the scuttle to the chassis (Fig
5.1).
Use either masking tape to draw on or use a
china graph pencil to mark the body work.
Do not use felt tip pen on the body panels.
1
3.3
Remove the scuttle. Create 16mm
clearance holes through the side panels
so that the rivserts for attaching the
scuttle have sufficient clearance (Fig
4.1).
5.1
Body Work
5
9•5
Repeat the process for the other side of
the scuttle.
25mm but the flex in the body will allow
this (Fig 6.3).
6 Fixing – Rear Arches
NOTE:
NOTE:
The body must clamp up against the two
sections of tube that are welded to the
bottom of the rear cross member.
The rear arches are self positioning on the
rear section. The rear of the arch has a flat
for mounting the lights, ensure this is facing
rearwards.
1
2
3
4
5
Place an arch [B] against the rear section
locating it on the blocks.
Clamp in position and drill twelve 6mm
holes around the flanges, one each side
of the locating blocks.
Locate twelve M6x20 setscrews, twelve
M6 nyloc nuts and twenty four repair
washers from your parts.
Place a repair washer on each setscrew
and insert into the twelve holes drilled.
Place another repair washer on the
other side of each setscrew and secure
with nyloc nuts (Fig 6.1).
5
Place an M6 washer on each setscrew
and secure with an M6 nyloc nuts (Fig
7.2).
Clamp here
before riveting
7.2
NOTE:
6.3
9
Check the concentricity of the rear arch
to hub centre.
The nose cone [F] is fixed to the front upper
chassis rails by two M6 setscrews fixed into
rivserts. The rivserts require fitting. The
bottom of the nose is secured by one central
M8 bolt fixed to a bracket at the front.
NOTE:
It is ultimately best to fit the rear wheels to
gain a full perspective of the fit.
10 Drill six 4.1mm holes spaced at 40mm
through the body in to the sections of
tube welded to the bottom of the
chassis cross member.
11 Secure with six 4x16mm large headed
body rivets
6
6.1
6
7
Repeat the process for the other side of
the car.
Line the arch up to the center of the
hub. Now that the arch is fixed to the
side panels all must be moved to center
it (Fig 6.2).
7 Fixing – Bonnet & Nose
1
2
3
4
Locate the bracket [G] for the lower
nose cone from your parts.
Locate two M6x45mm setscrews and
four M6 washers from your parts.
Place a washer on each setscrew.
Secure the bracket to the chassis
through the two inserts welded into the
lower cross member (Fig 7.1).
7
Place the bonnet [E] and the nose cone
[F] on the body. Align the two together
correctly checking the gaps and
alignment to the chassis center line (Fig
7.3).
Fix the nose cone into position with tape
or clamps, so that the bonnet may be
removed without disturbing the position
of the nose.
7.3
6.2
8
Clamp the underside of the rear body
panel to the rear chassis cross member.
It may have to be lifted up as much as
8
7.1
9
Remove the bonnet and drill a pilot hole
in each side through the nose cone and
into the chassis (Fig 7.4).
Remove the nose and drill out the two
holes in the chassis with an 11mm drill
bit (Fig 7.5).
Body Work
slacken of the bolts and readjust if
necessary.
8 Fixing – Bonnet Catch
1
7.4
6
Repeat the process for the other three
corners. Space the fronts 50mm from
the front edge of the bonnet.
9 Fixing – Lower Body
Replace the bonnet on to the car.
ensuring that it is correctly positioned
on the location blocks (Fig 8.1).
NOTE:
The bonnet is held on with four over center
latches, as well as sitting on two mounting
blocks moulded in to the side panels. The
large part of the latch is positioned at the
bottom.
NOTE:
The side panels that were fitted earlier now
need finally securing on the underside. They
are secured with twenty 4mm rivets.
1
2
3
4
7.5
10 Fit M8 rivserts into the holes and
enlarge the pilot holes in the nose cone
to 8mm.
11 Locate from your parts two M8x16mm
setscrews, two M8 washers and two
spring washers.
12 Place a spring washer followed by a
standard washer on each setscrew.
13 Secure the nose cone with M8
setscrews.
9•6
Re-check the alignment of the front
body panels.
Clamp the under edge of the side panel
to the chassis to secure it while drilling.
Drill ten 4.1mm holes on the lower edge
of the body at 200mm intervals with the
first rivet 50mm from the front. Drill the
holes through both body and chassis at
the same time.
Secure with 4mmx16mm large head
rivets (Fig 9.1).
8.1
2
3
4
Tape the areas where the over latches
are to be positioned, to prevent
scratching of the panels.
Using a catch as a template mark the
five holes to be drilled.
Remove the catch and drill five 4.1mm
holes.
9.1
NOTE:
NOTE:
The top of the catch unit needs to be level
with the top edge of the side panels. Ensure
there is sufficient tension in the catch to
hold the bonnet securely. The catch should
also be fitted 50mm from the edges of the
bonnet.
10
Fixing – Lighting
NOTE:
There are only two lights to be fitted. There
is a fog light and a brake light on the rear of
the car.
7.6
14 Clamp the lower part of the nose to the
lower bracket and drill a pilot hole
through the nose using the rivsert as a
guide (Fig 7.6).
15 Remove the nose and enlarge the hole
in the nose with an 8mm drill.
16 Locate an M8x16mm setscrew one
washer and one spring washer.
17 Place a spring washer on the setscrew
followed by a standard washer.
18 Refit the nose with the M8 setscrew,
Check the alignment for the final time,
It is normal for a small amount of distortion
to occur when the rivets are pulled up.
50mm
5
Using 4x16mm rivets, secure the catch
to the panels.
Body Work
1
9•7
Tape up the center of the rear panel, so
that markings can be made to cut holes
for the rear lights.
clamp the light between the rear panel.
They need to be bent in a vise to enable
fitment (Fig 10.3).
340mm
11.1
7
80mm
10.3
10.1
2
Draw a vertical center line from top to
bottom. Then draw a line across the
center line 80mm from the bottom of
the rear panel. Draw another line
340mm from the bottom of the rear
panel (Fig 10.1).
6
Repeat the process for the other light
unit ensuring they are fitted the correct
way up, this is denoted from the text on
the lens.
11
Cut off switches
Remove the lock nut from the cord,
insert the cord through the hole and
secure with lock nut.
12
Exhaust – Cut Out
NOTE:
The exhaust exits the car through the
passenger GRP side panel .A cut out is
required before the exhaust manifold can be
fitted in chapter 11.
NOTE:
The Race Car requires a battery master cut
off switch and fire extinguisher pull cord.
They are mounted to the driver’s side of the
scuttle.
1
2
Tape up a section of the side panel.
200mm from the front of the side panel,
200mm long and 160mm high.
Mark on the tape a square box (120mm
x120mm) 300mm from the front edge
and 20mm from the bottom of the
panel (Fig 12.1).
10.2
3
4
Two holes need to be cut of 85mm
diameter. This should be done using a
hole saw (Fig 10.2).
Push the lights into their holes and
check there is sufficient clearance.
300mm
20mm
NOTE:
There is a small tab on the back of the light
which will need to be removed to allow the
light to sit flush. Do this with a file or a hack
saw.
1
2
3
4
5
6
Tape off the area where the master
switch is to be fitted with masking tape.
Using the master switch as a template
mark out the positions of the holes.
Using a 22mm hole saw drill the center
hole and an 8mm hole to drill the fixing
holes.
Secure the master switch with
M6x20mm setscrews and nyloc nuts.
Mark the position for the extinguisher
pull cord, ensuring there is sufficient
clearance from the rollcage (Fig 11.1).
Drill a 12mm hole for the cord. You may
prefer to fit the cord now or later.
12.1
3
Mark a point 5mm in from each corner.
Drill a 10mm hole in each corner at the
point marked (Fig 12.2).
10mm O/D
5mm
5mm
120mm
120mm
5
Secure the lights with M4 bolts and
nyloc nuts. The washers are required to
12.2
Body Work
4
5
9•8
Using a jig saw with a fine blade
carefully cut between the holes to
achieve a square with 5mm radius
corners.
Finish the edges off with sand paper
being careful not to scratch the gel coat.
Use no coarser then 800 grit on gel coat
(Fig 12.3).
13.2
14
14.1
Fitting – Boot Panels
NOTE:
There are three alluminium boot panels
required to cover the boot area, the outer
two are riveted in place and the center panel
is secured with Dzus fastners.
12.3
13
Fitting-Closing Panels
1
NOTE:
The rear closing panels are fitted inside the
rear wheel arch. They stop mud, water etc
making its way between the body and the
chassis side panels.
2
3
Before fitting the rear closing panels and
after fitting the front. Fill the gap between
the body side panel and the aluminium side
panel with expanding foam supplied in the
kit.
They are aluminium panels not GRP but
must be fitted at this stage rather than with
the rest of the panels.
1
Fit the closing panel into the gap
between the arch and the side panel.
Seal with silicone sealant and rivets (Fig
13.1).
4
Position the pre cut boot cover panels
on to the rear top section of body work.
Align them so that they are equally
gaped.
Secure the outer two panels one at a
time to the GRP rear section with
clamps.
Drill four holes round the lip of each
alluminium panel through the GRP rear
section.
Secure in place with 4mm large head
rivets.
14.2
9
10
11
12
NOTE:
The middle panel requires a strip of
aluminium along the rear bulkhead. The
middle panel slots under the lip.
5
6
7
Position the lip over the rear bulk head
and note the rivets required to hold it in
place are already fitted to the bulkhead
panel.
Drill out the required rivets and secure
with standard 4mm rivets (Fig 14.2).
Position the center panel under the lip
and centre to the other panels.
13
14
Remove the aluminium panel and drill
out the pilots to 10mm. Place the Dzus
fastener in place and using it as a
template drill two holes for the rivets in
each fastener
Secure to the panel with two 4mm
rivets for each fastener.
Drill out the pilot hole in the GRP rear
section to 10mm.
Position the spring part of the Dzus
fastener under the GRP panel so that
the spring wire runs through the middle
of the 10mm hole.
Secure the spring clip in place with two
rivets. Repeat the process for the other
spring clip.
Position the middle panel back on the
rear section and attach with the Dzus
fasteners.
Dzus fastener layout
(Cross Section)
NOTE:
13.1
2
Fit the front closing panel between the
front bulkhead and the body side. Some
of the driver’s bulkhead panels rivets
will require drilling out.
The center panels over lap the outer panels.
The Dzus fasteners secure where the panels
over lap.
14.3
8
The rear of the panel is secured with
two Dzus fasteners. Drill a pilot hole
through both panels in the desired
location of the Dzus fasteners.
Body Work
15
9•9
Cutting – Cooling Vent
NOTE:
The bonnet requires two cut outs towards
the rear to lower under bonnet temperaturs.
1
2
3
Remove the bonnet from the car.
Cover the rear section of the bonnet
with masking tape.
Mark out the cut required according to
the diagram (Fig 15.1).
15.1
4
5
6
Using a 50mm hole saw cut the four
holes required in the bonnet according
to the diagram.
Remove the material between the holes
using a jig saw or similar with a fine
blade.
Finish the edges off with 400 grit wet
and dry paper.
Revision 38
Chapter 10
Rollcage
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
Standard Parts ................................................................ 1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING OF ROLLCAGE .................................................... 3
1
2
3
4
Preparation – Body Sides ..................................... 3
Positioning – Rollcage .......................................... 3
Fitting – Rear Steadies ......................................... 3
Fitment – Final .................................................... 4
INTRODUCTION
The roll cage is a FIA approved racing cage. It is bolted to the chassis at 18 points with high grade M10 bolts. It is bolted directly to the top of
the rear bulkhead and to the side of the chassis through spacer tubes to clear the body work. The cage is also fitted to the lower rear chassis
via adjustable rose joints to ease fitting.
Tools Required
Standard Parts
A. 5mm Drill Bit
A. M10 x 90mm Set Screw
x4
B.
11mm Drill Bit
B.
M10 x 75 Set Screw
x4
C.
Marking Tools
C.
M10 x 25 Set Screw
x8
D. Masking Tape
D. 7/16” x 2 ½” Set Screw
x2
E.
17mm Socket x2
E.
M10 Nylocs
x16
F.
5/8” Socket x2
F.
7/16” Nylocs
x2
G. Touque Wrench
H. Ratchet
Rollcage
Parts Required
A. Rollcage Kit
10•2
Rollcage
10•3
FITTING OF ROLLCAGE
1 Preparation – Body Sides
6
NOTE:
7
The initial fitting of the rollcage is a two
person job. It is not recommended trying on
your own.
1
8
Where the front of the rollcage secures,
there are two fixings on each side of the
car (Fig 2.2). There are tube inserts
welded into the chassis. Located under
the scuttle for these fixings (Fig 1.1).
From the outside enlarge the holes to
11mm.
Locate from your parts two M10x90mm
setscrews along with two M10 standard
washers.
Place the washers on to the setscrews
and partially insert in to the center
rollcage sleeves. (Fig 1.3).
7
The forward most mounting points
should line up with the holes drilled in
the body (Fig 2.2).
2.2
NOTE:
1.3
9 Fit two spacers on to the setscrews.
10 Repeat the process for the other side.
1.1
2
3
4
Drill a 5mm pilot hole through the
center line of the insert and through the
body work from inside the footwell, use
the inserts as a guide. Take care to
center the drill bit to the insert.
From the outside, enlarge the pilot hole
to 11mm using the pilot hole and chassis
inserts as a guide.
Repeat the process for the other side.
9
1
2
The hole is drilled from the outside of the
body to prevent the gel coat from chipping.
5
8
2 Positioning – Rollcage
3
4
NOTE:
If the holes do not line up, then slacken the
eight upper mounts to allow the cage to
move slightly.
Insert two M10x75mm setscrews on
one side, from inside of the chassis in
the holes drilled in section 2&3 of the
previous section.
Fit a spacer on to each bolt to stop the
body being squashed when tightening,
position the bolts so they are flush with
the side panel for now.
Repeat the process for the other side.
With the aid of another person lower
the cage over the car. The horizontal flat
plates on the rollcage locate to the flat
plates behind the bulkhead (Fig 2.1).
10
11
12
13
14
3 Fitting – Rear Steadies
Drill two 5mm pilot holes from inside
the body through the side impact bar
fitted earlier in chapter five, be carefull
to center the pilot hole to the impact
bar. (Fig 1.2).
1
2
3
4
2.1
5
1.2
Push the set screws that were
positioned flush with the body all the
way through so they come through the
mounting holes in the rollcage.
Fit nyloc nuts on the outside. No
washers are required.
Repeat the process for the other side of
the car.
Loosely tighten the bolts for now, along
with the upper mountings if slackened
earlier.
Push the two side impact setscrews all
the way through.
Place a washer on each bolt and secure
with a nyloc nut.
Repeat the process for the other side of
the car.
6
Locate four M10x25mm setscrews,
place a standard washer over each
setscrew.
Insert the four setscrews in each side
and temporarily tighten with nyloc nuts.
5
6
7
Locate the a rose joint from your parts
along with the locking nuts.
Screw the locking nuts on to the rose
joint
Screw the rose joint into the bottom of
the rear steadies.
Adjust the rose joint so that it lines up
with the chassis bracket.
Locate a 7/16”x2 1/2” setscrew from
your parts, place a washer on the end
Locate two small spacers from your
parts and fit between the rose joint and
the chassis bracket.
Insert the setscrew through the bracket
securing the rose joint.
Rollcage
8
Place a washer on the end of the
setscrew and secure with a nyloc nut.
3.1
9
Repeat the process for the other side.
4 Fitment – Final
1
2
Check the alignment of the cage and all
of the bolts to ensure they are correctly
fitted.
Now that all the bolts are fitted torque
them up to 38Nm (28ft/lbs).
10•4
Revision 91
Chapter 11
Engine & Associated Systems
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
Standard Parts ................................................................ 1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING OF ENGINE AND SYSTEMS .................................. 3
1
Fitting – Chassis Mount ........................................ 3
2
Assembly – Radiator ............................................ 3
3
Fitting – Radiator Brackets ................................... 3
4
Preparing – Engine .............................................. 3
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
Fitting – Engine ................................................... 4
Fitting – Cooling System ...................................... 4
Fitting – Expansion Tank ...................................... 5
Fitting – Sender Wires ......................................... 6
Fitting – ECU & Relays ......................................... 8
Fitting – Oil Catch Tank ....................................... 8
Fitting – Fuel Hose .............................................. 9
Fitting- Exhaust ................................................... 9
INTRODUCTION
A 2000cc Zetec engine is supplied along with throttle bodies, ECU and a type 9 gear box. The engine is supplied complete and ready to fit. This
chapter also covers fitting of the cooling system, engine wiring harness/ECU and exhaust system.
The cooling hoses supplied require cutting to length this can be achieved with a hack saw.
Tools Required
Standard Parts
A. Engine Hoist
A. M8 x 25mm Set Screws
x4
B.
13mm Socket x2
B.
M6 x 16mm Set Screws
x4
C.
17mm Socket x2
C.
M6 x 20mm Set Screws
x4
D. 8mm Spanner
D. M5 x 16mm Set Screws
x9
E.
Rivet Gun
E.
M10 x 50mm Set Screw
x1
F.
Torque Wrench
F.
M10 x 25mm Set Screw
x2
G. Ratchet
G. M6 Spring Washer
x2
H. Flat Blade Screw Driver
H. M5 STD Washer
x2
I.
Rivsert Tool
I.
M5 Nyloc Nut
x7
J.
4.1mm, 5mm, 7mm, 10mm Drill Bits
J.
M6 Nyloc Nut
x4
K.
3mm Allen Key
K.
M10 Nyloc Nut
x2
L.
40mm Jubaliee Clips
x8
M. 30mm Jubaliee Clips
x1
N. 25mm Jubaliee Clips
x5
O. 10mm Spacer Tubes
x6
Engine & Associated Systems
Parts Required
A
B
C
D
A. Engine Mounting Plate
B.
Radiator Bracket x2
C.
Radiator
D. Complete Engine & Gearbox
E.
Webcon Wiring Harness
F.
ECU
G. ECU Brackets
H. Oil Catch Tank
I.
Expansion Tank
J.
Kinked Water Hose
K.
90° Water Hose
L.
Aluminium Water Pipe (long)
F
M. Aluminium Water Pipe (short)
E
G
N. Large ‘P’ Clips x2
O. Jubilee Clips x8
P.
Exhaust Manifold
Q. Silencer
R.
Fan
S.
Fan Mounting Bracket
T.
Fan Switch
H
I
L
N
U. Reducing hose
V. Small Bore Hose
J
K
M
O
P
N
S
T
R
Q
O
U
V
11•2
Engine & Associated Systems
11•3
FITTING OF ENGINE AND SYSTEMS
1 Fitting – Chassis Mount
1
2
3
4
Locate the passenger side chassis engine
mount from your parts [A].
Position the bracket on the flat plate
welded to the chassis.
Secure using M8x25mm bolts with plain
washers on both sides and nyloc nuts
(Fig 1.1).
1.1
2 Assembly – Radiator
1
2
5
NOTE:
The fan mounting bracket is clamped
between the radiator and the radiator
mounting brackets that are fitted in part 3
6
7
Spacers are fitted between
assembly and the chassis brackets
5
Locate from your parts the radiator [C]
the fan [R] and its mounting bracket [S].
Secure the fan to its mounting bracket
using four M6x20mm set screws and
four M6 nyloc nuts (Fig 2.1).
Place the fan and its mounting bracket
on to the back of the radiator.
6
radiator
3.2
Align the holes in the mounting bracket
with the lugs moulded to the radiator.
Proceed to part three (fitting radiator
brackets)
3 Fitting – Radiator Brackets
1
2
3
screw one spring washer and one plain
washer.
Position the radiator so that it is sitting
level to the chassis.
Using the aluminium brackets as a
template drill six 4.1mm holes in the
upper face of the chassis cross member
(not all the way through).
Secure with six 4.1mm rivets (Fig 3.2).
Locate from your parts the two
aluminium radiator brackets [B], along
with two M6x16 dome head set screws.
Place a spring washer on each set screw.
Fit the aluminium brackets to the
radiator with one M6x16 cap head
screw for each bracket (Fig 3.1).
4 Preparing – Engine
NOTE:
Your engine will be supplied to you ready to
fit with a gearbox throttle bodies and
senders fitted.
Be careful when lifting the engine into the
car, take your time and use proper lifting
equipment
Do not position yourself under a suspended
engine or torque any bolts.
2.1
3
Fit the fan switch to the radiator it
locates in the hole on the passenger side
of the radiator (Fig 2.2).
1
3.1
2
NOTE:
The aluminium brackets need to be fitted to
the radiator before they are riveted to the
car.
4
2.2
Attach the radiator to the lower
mounting brackets welded to the
chassis. Fix using M6x16 dome head set
To fit the engine the gear stick needs to
be removed to clear the tunnel (Fig 4.1).
Remove the three bolts securing the
gearstick. Note how the stick fits the
detent in the box for refitting (Fig 4.2).
Engine & Associated Systems
3
4
The engine is a tight fit in a race car
chassis and will require a bit of
maneuvering getting it into position.
Attach the gearbox mount first then
lower the engine down onto its engine
mounts (Fig 5.2).
5
Fit the nyloc nuts on to the engine
mounts with a plain washer and tighten
to 47Nm (35ft/lbs).
6 Fitting – Cooling System
1
2
4.1
11•4
Locate the hoses [J/K] and aluminium
pipes [L/M] from your parts ready to
hand.
Cut a 100mm length of large flexible
water hose. Push the hose on to the
thermostat housing (A) at the back of
the engine (Fig 6.1).
5.2
NOTE:
4.2
3
The mounts come with the nyloc nuts fitted
to them, so they need removing before
lowering the engine on to its mounts.
Connect the engine securely to your
hoist; it is preferable to have an engine
stabilizer rather than using rope.
6.1
3
NOTE:
Two people are required to fit the engine
safely.
4
5
5 Fitting – Engine
5.3
1
Lift the engine up high enough so as the
gearbox output shaft will clear the
chassis with the engine at an angle
2
Push the engine in towards the chassis
with one person manning the hoist and
one on the end of the gearbox, pushing
it down to clear the top of the tunnel
(Fig 5.1).
5.1
Place two 40mm jubilee clips [O] over
the hose. Position one of the clips over
the thermostat housing and tighten
Locate the long section of aluminium
water pipe [L], it has a large curve bent
into one end.
Push the end with the bend into the
flexible hose connected to the
thermostat housing. Position the jubilee
Engine & Associated Systems
6
7
8
clip over the aluminium pipe and tighten
to secure the two together.
Cut a 170mm length of flexible water
hose and connect it to the alluminium
pipe just fitted.
Place two 40mm jubilee clips on to the
hose and tighten one down securing the
hose and the alluminium pipe together
(Fig 6.2).
Push the remaining end of the hose
onto the upper hose of the radiator
secure with the remaining jubilee clip.
11•5
18 Enlarge the hole to 7mm, fit a M5 rivsert
into the hole.
19 Secure the clip down with an M5x16mm
dome headed screw and 10mm spacer
tube (Fig6.7).
20 Position another P-clip over the lower
aluminium pipe (Fig 6.8).
6.4
6.8
6.5
6.2
Locate the flexible hose [K] with 90°
bend, push it on to the water pump
located at the front nearside of the
engine.
10 Place two 40mm jubilee clips [O] on to
the hose. Tighten one jubilee clip to the
water pump outlet securing the hose to
the pump (Fig 6.3).
9
14 Push the end of the kinked pipe on to
the lower radiator outlet. Secure with
the remaining jubilee clip.
15 The two aluminium pipes require
securing to the chassis, this is done with
large ‘P’ clips [N].
16 Position a P clip over the upper hose
near to the nose end of the nose cone
(Fig 6.6).
21 Line it up with the center of the chassis
down tube that can be seen behind the
front nearside wheel.
22 Repeat the process used for the other P
clip.
7 Fitting – Expansion Tank
1
2
Locate the expansion tank [I], small bore
aluminium pipe, reducer hose and small
bore kinked hose from your parts.
Mount the aluminium bracket to the
scuttle. Position the lower two holes
15mm from the bottom of the scuttle
and 300mm from the bottom left of the
scuttle (Fig 7.1).
NOTE
6.3
11 Locate the small straight section of
aluminium pipe [M] with a tee piece on
it. Push it on to the 90° hose and secure
it to the hose with the remaining jubilee
clip (Fig 6.4).
12 Locate the kinked hose [J] and push it on
to the end of the section of pipe just
fitted.
13 Place two 40mm jubilee [O] clips onto
the hose. Tighten one of the clips
securing the hose to the alluminium
pipe (Fig 6.5).
6.6
The expansion tank is mounted to the
offside of the scuttle. It is secured to the
scuttle in two places. One mount is straight
through the left hand mounting tab. The
right hand mounts to an aluminium bracket
which is riveted to the scuttle.
17 Line the hole in the P-clip up with the
center of the cross member and drill a
5mm hole into the chassis.
3
6.7
Drill the lower two holes according to
the diagram. Secure with rivets.
Engine & Associated Systems
2
11•6
Plug the connector in to the coil which is
located at the rear of the engine rocker
cover (Fig 8.2).
15mm
300mm
4
5
6
7
7.1
7.4
Drill the other two holes using the
bracket as a guide and rivet in position.
Secure the expansion tank to the
bracket with an M5x16mm dome
headed set screw and nyloc nut. Place a
washer either side of the cap screw.
Position the tank so that it is level. Drill a
hole for the other mounting through the
scuttle using the tank as a guide.
Secure with an M5 dome headed set
screw and nyloc nut. Fit a washer either
side of the screw (Fig 7.2).
10 Fit the small bore kinked hose to the
end of the small bore aluminium pipe
and secure with 25mm jubilee.
11 Place a jubilee clip on to the hose.
Secure the hose to the main water pipe
‘T’ piece. Secure with the remaining
25mm jubilee clip.
12 Secure the small bore aluminium pipe to
the large upper main pipe with cable
ties.
13 Locate the small silicon bung from your
parts.
14 Fit the bung to the spare union on the
thermostat housing. Secure with a
25mm jubilee clip (Fig 7.5).
8.2
3
NOTE:
Most sender plugs are mounted in a similar
way with a spring retaining clip.
4
5
6
7.2
8
9
Fit the reducing hose to the lower outlet
on the expansion tank and secure with
30mm jubilee clip (Fig 7.3).
Locate the aluminium pipe from your
parts. Fit to the reducing hose and
secure with a 25mm jubilee clip. It then
runs down to the ‘T’ in the main lower
aluminium water pipe (Fig 7.4).
The plug has a wire spring clip that
needs to be removed before fitting the
plug and then needs to be repositioned
to lock the plug in place.
Locate the crank position connector on
the wiring loom, it should run down the
nearside bulkhead with the starter
motor wires.
Plug the connector in to the sender
which is found at the lower near side of
the engine block just before the gearbox
(Fig 8.3).
Fit the retaining spring clip as done for
the coil connector.
7.5
8 Fitting – Sender Wires
1
Locate the coil plug on the wiring loom
it should be exiting the offside of the
tunnel and is marked coil (Fig 8.1).
8.3
7
8
7.3
8.1
Locate the water temperature wires
(green and black) the black wire has an
eyelet crimped to it, and the green wire
has a spade connector. They should exit
the tunnel on the nearside.
The sender is located on the thermostat
housing next to the engine water outlet
(Fig 8.4).
Engine & Associated Systems
11•7
Remove the temp sender from the
engine (comes with gauges if you don’t
have a complete kit) Refit the sender,
trapping the eyelet (black wire) behind
it (Fig 8.5).
10 Secure the green wire to the end of the
sender.
9
8.7
8.10
13 Connect the AirTemp plug to the air
temp sender which is mounted to the
air filter back plate (Fig 8.8).
17 Locate the water temp connector for
the ECU (Blue and Black). It should be
run along the offside of the chassis with
the alternator wires.
18 Connect the plug to the water temp
sender plug mounted to the head under
the inlet manifold, near the alternator
(Fig 8.11).
8.4
8.8
8.5
14 Connect the RED labeled plug to the
throttle position sensor (green wire)
that can be found near to the alternator
(Fig 8.9).
11 Locate the fuel injection wires, which
exit the offside of the tunnel and are not
secured at the moment. They are
labeled, INJ1, INJ2, INJ3, INJ4, AirTemp
and one with a RED label on it (Fig 8.6).
8.9
8.6
12 Connect the 4 injector pugs (INJ1 etc)
into the injectors on the throttle bodies
(Fig 8.7).
15 Locate the oil pressure wires (White
with black sheath) from the loom which
should be routed along with the
alternator wires.
16 Connect the eyelet to the oil pressure
sender mounted on the nearside of the
engine by unscrewing the plastic nut
(Fig 8.10).
8.11
19 Secure any loose wires on this side of
the engine and ensure that all
connection are as per the diagram.
20 Locate the alternator wires (Brown and
Brown/Yellow) they should run along
the offside of the chassis.
21 Connect the large brown wires (two
wires into one eyelet) to the left
connection on the back of the alternator
should be marked (B) (Fig 8.12).
22 Connect the brown/yellow wire to the
smaller terminal next to the large brown
wires.
8.12
Engine & Associated Systems
10
Fitting – Oil Catch
Tank
NOTE:
The alternator shown in the picture is a
bosh. This may be a different make. The
connection though is the same.
23 Locate the Lambda sender from the
wiring loom it should be routed across
the top of the nearside bulkhead and
then down to the bottom of the car.
Note its location as it will be fitted to
the exhaust manifold after the body
work has been fitted (Fig 8.13).
11•8
1
Locate the aluminium catch tank [H]
from your parts.
NOTE:
9.1
5
Drill the four 4.1mm holes and secure
with rivets (Fig 9.2).
The catch tank is mounted to the right
offside of the engine. The clearance between
the tank, master cylinders and steering shaft
is limited.
Don’t fit the tank until the master cylinders
and steering shaft are in place.
2
The tank sits on two pieces of
aluminium that bridge the two main
chassis rails (Fig 10.1).
8.13
9.2
9 Fitting – ECU & Relays
Locate the plastic relay mounting
bracket on the engine harness (it is pre
attached to the relays).
7 Find a suitable location under the
scuttle on the tunnel top panel where
the wires are not stretched
8 Mark the position of one of the pre
drilled holes in the bracket onto the
tunnel top.
9 Drill a 4.1mm hole in the tunnel top and
secure the plastic bracket to the tunnel
top with a rivet.
10 Fit the relays to the bracket and secure
any loose wiring with cable ties and
saddle clamps (Fig9.3).
6
1
Locate from your parts the ECU and its
mounting brackets.
NOTE:
The ECU is to be mounted in the passenger
foot well weather the car is right hand drive
left.
2
3
4
Secure the aluminium brackets to the
ECU. It is secured with two M5 dome
head set screws on each side with nyloc
nuts fitted on the bottom (Fig 9.1).
Plug the ECU into the engine harness
and position in the desired location.
Ensuring that the wires are not over
stretched.
Mark the positions of the brackets on
the tunnel of the passenger footwell.
10.1
3
4
5
Position the tank in place and check the
clearance to the parts surrounding it.
When a suitable position has been
decided mark where the tags on the
tank line up with the chassis rails.
Cut two pieces of scrap aluminium and
rivet them onto the chassis.
Drill a hole in each of the two tabs on
the catch tank (Fig 10.2).
10.2
9.3
6
NOTE:
Ensure that all the cables and wires are
secured properly, with adequate clips and
saddles.
7
Reposition the tank on the straps and
drill through the aluminium plate
previously fitted to the chassis.
Secure the catch tank with M5 dome
head screws and nyloc nuts fit repair
washers to each side (Fig 10.3).
Engine & Associated Systems
11•9
14 Push the remainder of the 20mm O/D
fuel hose on to the remaining pipe
exiting the catch tank. Fit a jubilee clip
and tighten.
15 Route the hose to the vacuum union on
the air filter back plate (Fig 10.6).
4
5
Secure the hose with a jubilee clip.
Locate the feed hose on the throttle
body, route it over to the hard feed line
(Fig 11.3).
10.3
Locate a length of 25mm O/D flexible
fuel hose and a length of 20mm O/D
flexible fuel hose.
9 Push the 25mm O/D fuel hose onto the
larger tube on top of the catch tank fit a
jubilee clip over the hose and tighten.
10 Run the hose over to the breather pipe
on the rocker cover cutting to the
required length (Fig 10.4).
8
11.3
10.6
11
1
Fitting – Fuel Hose
The Webcon throttle bodies come
complete with fuel hose attached
already. The hoses need to be attached
to the hard lines exiting the tunnel.
Offer the hose up to the feed hard line
and cut to length. Secure with a jubilee
clip.
12
Fitting- Exhaust
NOTE:
NOTE
The Exhaust should not be fitted until the
body has been fitted as it needs to exit
through the side panel.
As set up in chapter 7 the lower of the two
fuel lines is the feed to the engine.
1
2
10.4
11 Place a jubilee clip over the hose before
attaching it to the breather pipe.
12 Locate the 20mm O/D fuel hose, push
the hose on to one of the smaller pipes
exiting the catch tank. Fit a jubilee clip
over the pipe and tighten.
13 Route the hose round the coil to the
other side of the engine and connect the
hose to the crank case emission control
valve located at the rear near side of the
engine. Cut to length as required (Fig
10.5).
6
3
Locate the hose that is attached to the
fuel regulator, route it neatly under the
throttle bodies to the hard lines (Fig
11.1).
Offer the hose up to the return line and
cut to length (Fig 11.2).
2
Place the manifold [P] on to the exhaust
ports by feeding it through the body
work on the nearside of the car.
Bolt the manifold in place with the bolts
supplied with the engine (Fig 12.1).
12.1
3
11.1
Drill a 5mm pilot hole for the exhaust
mounting bracket from inside the
passenger compartment. Through the
M10 bush (Fig 12.2).
NOTE:
Make sure you drill through the correct
bush, NOT one of the 7/16 seatbelt bushes.
It is the third bush from the rear bulkhead.
10.5
11.2
Engine & Associated Systems
12.2
4
5
6
Using a 10mm drill bit drill through from
the outside using the pilot hole, do not
drill into the threaded bush as this
would damage the thread.
Locate the silencer bracket from your
parts and bolt it through the hole drilled
previously using M10x50 set screw.
Apply some silicone exhaust paste to
the end of the manifold (about 25mm),
feed the silencer [Q] on to the manifold
with the exhaust clamp fitted first (Fig
12.3).
12.3
7
Secure the silencer to the rubber mount
with the nut fitted to it. Be careful not
to twist the rubber mount when
tightening (Fig 12.4).
12.4
11•10
Revision 18
Chapter 12
Final Fittings
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
Standard Parts ................................................................ 1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FINAL FITTINGS .............................................................. 3
1
Fitting – Seat Belts .............................................. 3
2
Fitting – Seats ..................................................... 3
3
Fitting – Fire Extinguisher ..................................... 3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Fitting–Extinguisher Cord ..................................... 4
Fixing – Cycle Wings ............................................ 4
Fitting – Wheels .................................................. 5
Fitting – Wing Mirrors .......................................... 5
Fitting – Aero Screen ........................................... 5
Fitting – Nose Ducting ......................................... 5
INTRODUCTION
The seats supplied have been specially developed by cobra for this car. The wide Westfield harnesses are also supplied with the kit. The seats
are mounted via brackets that have adjustments built into them but require refitting to change the seating position as a seat runner cannot be
approved for racing.
A plumbed in fire extinguisher is also supplied in the kit. This is activated by remote pull cords mounted to the scuttle and on the dash so that
in the event of a fire a marshal or the driver can activate the extinguisher.
Tools Required
Standard Parts
A. Rivet Gun
A. M8 x 25mm Cap Head Set Screws
x8
B.
4.1mm Drill bit
B.
M6 x20mm Set Screws
x6
C.
5mm Drill bit
C.
M6 x 25mm Counter Sunk
x4
D. 10mm Drill bit
D. M5 x 16mm Dome Head Set Screws
x11
E.
5/8” Spanner
E.
M8 Nyloc Nut
x4
F.
10mm Spanner x2
F.
M6 Nyloc Nut
x4
G. 13mm Spanner x2
G. M5 Nyloc Nut
x11
H. Sharp Knife
H. M8 STD Washer
x8
I.
3mm Allen key
I.
x3
J.
4mm Allen key
K.
5mm Allen key
L.
6mm Allen key
M5 STD Washer
Final Fittings
Parts Required
A. Fire Extinguisher Set
B.
Seat x2
C.
Seat Bracket Bracket x4
D. Harnesses set x2
E.
Front Cycle Wings
F.
Wing Mirror x2
G. Mirror x2
H. Aero Screen
I.
Aloy Wheels x 4
J.
Ducted Nose Panels
A
B
C
D
E
F
F
N
G
H
H
J
O
I
12•2
Final Fittings
12•3
FINAL FITTINGS
1 Fitting – Seat Belts
2 Fitting – Seats
NOTE
NOTE
The upper straps are mounted via eyelets
and the straps clip onto them.
The seat brackets have adjustment for the
angle of the seat. The highest part of the
bracket is at the front of the seat.
The lower straps are bolted directly into the
chassis with 7/16” seat belt bolt.
1
2
Locate the seat belt eyelets from your
parts.4 are required in total.
Screw the eyelets into bushes welded to
the top of the chassis between the main
rollcage mounts (Fig 1.1).
7
Connect the upper straps to the eyelets
and feed them through the harness
holes in the seat (Fig 2.2).
Bolt the brackets to the seat and place on a
level floor and test the seat to see if it is at
the correct angle for you.
1
2
Locate the two seats [B] and four seat
brackets from your parts [C].
Bolt the seat brackets to the seat in the
desired location using M8 cap head
bolts and a washer on each (Fig 2.1).
2.2
3 Fitting – Fire Extinguisher
NOTE
The fire extinguisher is mounted in the
passenger footwell. It has two plumbed in
nozzles and is activated from the driver’s
side of the scuttle and dash via a pull cord.
1
1.1
3
4
Locate the waist straps on the harness
along with four 7/16” seatbelt bolt.
Bolt the waist straps to the bushes
welded to the chassis ensure the straps
are in the correct orientation (Fig 1.2).
2.1
NOTE
If you have fitted the roll cage you will have
to put the seat in at an angle, then feed the
lower harness straps in before the seat is
sitting fully on the floor.
3
4
1.2
5
6
Place washers on the bolts before fitting
the straps.
Repeat the process for both sides of the
car.
5
2
3
4
5
Position the extinguisher [A] in the
passenger footwell where it is not
interfering with any other part.
Mark the position of the bracket on the
floor of the car.
Remove the extinguisher and drill two
4.1mm holes through the bracket.
Secure the bracket to the floor with
rivets.
Refit the extinguisher and connect the
straps (Fig 3.1).
With the seat sitting on the floor of the
car position the seat and test its position
to see if you can operate the controls
properly.
Insert four M8 cap head bolts from
inside the car through the seat brackets
and through the floor. Fit a washer
before fitting the bolt.
Secure the bolts with Nyloc nuts and
washers.
3.1
NOTE
The rear bolts are tricky to get in as there is
not much space available.
6
Repeat the process for the other seat
you may wish to position the passenger
seat further back to allow for leg room
from the fire extinguisher.
NOTE
The pipe for the nozzles now has to be run.
One nozzle has to be fitted on the scuttle
inside the engine bay pointing at the engine.
The other is mounted in the cockpit pointing
at the driver.
Final Fittings
6
Mark the center of the scuttle at a
height equivalent to the top of the
engine (Fig 3.2).
12•4
Extinguisher Plumbing
Activation Cord
3.2
7
Drill a 10mm hole in the scuttle and fit
one of the nozzles, securing it at the
back with the nut supplied (Fig 3.3).
4 Fitting–Extinguisher Cord
NOTE
The fire extinguisher requires two remote
activation points, one on the driver’s side of
the scuttle and one on the dash within reach
of the driver.
The system uses two flexible cables that are
fitted to pull cords.
3.3
8
Mount the second nozzle on the scuttle
panel pointing at the driver (Fig 3.4).
4.2
Ensure the pin in not going to fall out of the
extinguisher.
4
The fitting method for the scuttle pull cord is
described in the body work chapter.
5
1
2
3
Locate the other pull cord from your
parts and mount it to the dashboard
where the driver can reach it (Fig 4.1).
Route the cables back to the
extinguisher from the pull cords.
Push the inner of the cable through the
union and then through the other part
of the handle.
6
Locate the outers in their unions. Pull
the inners tight and secure with the
collets supplied with the extinguisher.
There should be little or no slack in the
cables.
Secure the cables with ‘P’ Clips and or
cable ties.
NOTE
Leave the pin in the extinguisher at all times
unless on track.
5 Fixing – Cycle Wings
3.4
Route the plumbing pipe from the fire
extinguisher outlet to the center of the
scuttle panel.
10 Mount a T piece to the pipe.
11 From the T piece route two pipes to the
nozzles.
12 Secure the pipe with P-clips and rivets in
the desired location.
9
NOTE:
It is recommended that the wheels be fitted
to check for clearance and fit. It is necessary
to fit the bracket before fitting the wing
1
2
4.1
3
Locate the cycle wing brackets [F] from
your parts. There is a left and a right.
Offer up the bracket to the upright there
are three mounting points for each
bracket (Fig 5.2).
Secure with M6x20mm set screws and
spring washers.
Final Fittings
4
12•5
Position the wing [E] onto the brackets
according to (Fig 5.1) and draw a mark
onto the wing in the position of the
bracket.
7 Fitting – Wing Mirrors
1
20mm
Locate the two mirrors [F] from your
parts. And four M6x16mm counter sunk
setscrews, four M6 nyloc nuts and four
standard M6 washers
NOTE:
The mirrors are attached to the front of the
rollcage.
2
3
5.1
5
Offer the mirror up to the pre drilled
holes in the rollcage.
Insert the two M6x16 counter sunk set
screws through the mirror bracket and
rollcage (Fig 7.1).
8.1
4
5
Mark two points 100mm apart for the
mounting bolts along the line of the
bracket (Fig 5.3).
Locate three M5x16 dome headed
screws, three M5 washers and three M5
nyloc nuts.
Insert the dome headed screws into the
holes place a washer on the each screw
and secure with nyloc nuts(Fig 8.2).
7.1
4
5.2
Fit a M6 washer on to each setscrew
and secure with nyloc nuts (Fig 7.2).
8.2
9 Fitting – Nose Ducting
1
Locate from your parts the four ducted
nose panels [I].
NOTE:
The small panels form the sides of the
ducting and the larger two panels the top
and bottom.
100mm
5.3
6
7
8
9
Drill the four holes required in the wing.
Refit the wing on the bracket and
position. Drill down through the bracket.
Secure the wing with dome headed
screws and secure with nyloc nuts.
Repeat the process for the other side.
6 Fitting – Wheels
1
2
Locate from your parts the four road
wheels. And sixteen wheel nuts.
Position wheels on to the hubs and
secure with the wheel nuts.
7.2
8 Fitting – Aero Screen
1
2
3
Locate the aero screen [H] from your
parts
Position the screen on to the scuttle so
that it sits against the lip moulded into
the scuttle.
Drill three 5mm holes in the aero screen
through the scuttle in the location
shown (Fig 8.1).
2
Rivet the panels together with sixteen
4mm rivets (Fig 9.1).
Final Fittings
9.1
3
4
5
6
Offer the assembled ducting up to the
front of the radiator.
Locate four M6x16mm dome head
screws along with four std M6 washers.
Place a washer on each set screw.
Fix the ducting to the radiator using the
set screws (Fig 9.2).
9.2
12•6
Revision 4
Chapter 13
Optional Anti Roll Bar
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING OF OPTIONAL ANTI ROLL BAR ............................ 3
1
2
3
Fitting – Front Roll Bar ......................................... 3
Fitting – Rear Roll Bar .......................................... 3
Torque Setting .................................................... 4
INTRODUCTION
An anti roll bar is available from Westfield Sportscars as an optional extra. If you wish to purchase this option please contact the parts
department for further information.
If you have not specified an anti roll bar proceed to the next chapter.
Tools Required
A. Metric spanner set x2
B.
Knife
C.
Sand paper
D. Copper grease
Optional Anti Roll Bar
Parts Required
A
A. Front Roll Bar 29650
B.
Rear Roll Bar 40402
C.
Mounting Blocks Rear
D. Mounting Blocks Front
E.
Steel Brackets
F.
Upper Clevis Front
B
G. Upper Clevis Rear
H. Drop Link
I.
Lower Clevis Front
J.
Lower Clevis Rear
C
D
F
G
E
H
I
J
13•2
13•3 Optional Anti Roll Bar
FITTING OF OPTIONAL ANTI ROLL BAR
1 Fitting – Front Roll Bar
1
2
3
Locate from your parts the clevises [I]
and the longer damper mounting bolts.
Jack the car up and remove the existing
bolt.
Refit the longer bolt with the clevis, and
loosely tighten.
10 Offer the assembly up to the wishbone
brackets and insert the longer bolts.
Fitting a spacer between the block and
the suspension mount.
11 The new bolt goes on the other way
around to the standard bolt.
12 Fit a washer and secure with a nyloc
nut.
16 Fit the drop links between the lower
clevis and the anti roll bar drop link
block with the bolts supplied.
4
5
6
7
8
Locate the front roll bar mounting
blocks [D] from your parts.
The blocks mount to the part of the anti
roll bar with no powder coat.
Cover the bare metal with copper
grease and assemble the blocks over the
roll bar.
Mount the aluminium blocks on the anti
roll bar [A], they are secured to the bar
by the smaller lower bolt.
Fit a washer and secure with a nyloc
nut.
13 Locate the upper clevis front [F] from
your parts.
14 Slide it on to the anti roll bar and
position it 158mm from the centre line
of the roll bar.
17 Repeat the process for the other side.
2 Fitting – Rear Roll Bar
1
2
3
9
Remove the two forward most upper
wishbone bolts.
15 Locate the drop links [F] from your
parts. Assemble them so as each rod is
fitted with two rose joints and a locking
nut at each end.
4
5
6
NOTE:
The longer of the drop links are the rear links
FRONT
= 130mm c-c
REAR
= 225mm c-c
Locate from your parts the rear steel
brackets [E].
Jack the car up and remove the rear
most upper suspension bolt.
Fit the steel bracket over the existing
suspension bracket.
Insert the longer bolt with a washer
either side and secure with a nyloc nut.
Position the aluminium blocks [D]
Offer up the rear roll bar assembly to
the brackets fitted and secure with the
nuts supplied.
Optional Anti Roll Bar
7
8
9
Locate the rear upper clevis [G] from
your parts.
Slide it on to the anti roll bar and
position it 121mm from the centre line
of the roll bar.
Fit the drop links [H] between the roll
bar and the lower wishbone. There is no
clevis required on the rear as the lower
wishbone has a mount built into it.
3 Torque Setting
10 When the anti roll bars have been fitted
sit the car on the ground
11 Torque the bolts up to the settings listed
in the torque chart at the beginning of
the manual.
13•4
Revision 4
Chapter 14
Suspension Set-up
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
SUSPENSION SET-UP ....................................................... 3
1
Tyre – Pressure ................................................... 3
2
Ride - Height ....................................................... 3
3
Front – Camber ................................................... 3
4
5
6
7
8
Rear – Camber .................................................... 3
Front – Toe ........................................................ 3
Rear – Toe ......................................................... 4
Notes ................................................................. 4
Brake Bias- Setup ................................................ 5
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations on completing your Westfield sports car. It is now time to set up your suspension, setting up your car can be time consuming
but is an important part of the build to get the most from your car.
The dimensions given are a base setting that we have developed. As you become accustomed to your car you may wish to alter the settings to
match your driving style.
If you do not own any equipment for setting up your car you may wish to purchase some or entrust Westfield Sports Cars to do the job for you.
Tools Required
A. Camber Gauge
B.
Wheel Alighnment Equiptment
C.
Spanner set
D. Tyre Pressure Gauge
E.
Soft Mallet
F.
Ball Joint Removal Tool
Suspension Set-up
N
O
14•2
Suspension Set-up
14•3
SUSPENSION SET-UP
1 Tyre – Pressure
3 Front – Camber
4 Rear – Camber
NOTE
NOTE
NOTE
Before setting the ride height the tyre
pressure must be set.
Camber affects the contact patch of the tyre
on the ground. It is normal on most cars to
have negative camber.
Rear Camber has the same effect as the
front.
You may think the tyre pressure seems very
low in comparison to a standard road car;
this is due to the car being very light weight
1
Using a tyre pressure gauge set the
correct tyre pressure as per the set-up
sheet.
2 Ride - Height
NOTE
The ride height must be set before any other
suspension settings are altered as the ride
height has an effect on camber and toe.
The reason for this is that tyres bend under
heavy cornering, which would affect the
contact patch of the tyre.
Adjustment is slightly different due to the
rose jointed rear suspension.
To compensate for this bending camber can
be set in to the upright to get a larger
contact patch under cornering.
Too much camber increases tyre wear.
Camber is adjusted by altering the length of
the top wishbone on a Westfield.
The suspension bush bolts should be slack
until the ride height is set.
1
Adjustment is made by raising or lowering
the spring platforms.
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
2
3
4
5
6
Screw the front spring platforms up to
raise or down to lower the car.
Check the dimension against the set-up
sheet on the previous page.
Screw the rear spring platforms up to
raise or down to lower the car.
Check the dimension against the set-up
sheet on the previous page.
Check all four corners and adjust as
necessary as per the set-up sheet.
12
13
Check the camber angle that is currently
set on your car.
Slacken the ball joint locking nut.
Remove the metaloc nut on the upper
wishbone ball joint.
Detach the ball joint from the upright.
Use of a ball joint removal tool may be
required.
Screw the ball joint in or out to adjust
the camber depending on what initial
setting of your car was.
The minimum adjustment on standard
wishbones is one full turn. On wide
track cars the adjustment is infinite.
Set the camber in accordance with the
set-up sheet on the previous page.
7
Check the camber angle that is currently
set on your car.
Slacken the rose joint locking nut.
Remove the 7/16” nyloc nut securing
the upper rose joint to the upright.
Knock the bolt through enough to
separate the rose joint from the upright.
Screw the rose joint in or out to adjust
the camber depending on what initial
setting of your car was.
Set the camber in accordance with the
set-up sheet on the previous page.
Refit the nyloc nut and ensure the large
washer is fitted.
5 Front – Toe
NOTE
Toe ‘Track’ is the angle of the wheels
relative to one another when viewed from
the top.
Suspension Set-up
NOTE
6 Rear – Toe
The toe is adjusted by altering the length of
the rack. This is done with the track rod ends
on the rack.
NOTE
3
The rear toe ‘track’ is set by adjusting the
lower rose joint on the lower rear wishbone.
One full rotation of the rose joint equates to
1.3mm of movement into or out of the
bottom wishbone
14•4
Adjust both sides of the car not just one
side.
Screw the rose joint in or out as
required to achieve the toe on the setup sheet listed on the previous page.
7 Notes
1
2
If you make any alterations to your
settings that you are happy with it pays
to right them down for reference.
Provided below is a blank set-up sheet
that you can add your own dimensions
too.
NOTE
1
2
3
4
Check the toe angle that is currently set
on your car.
Release the ball joint locking nut. Screw
the steering shaft clockwise for toe in
and anti clock wise for toe out.
Adjust both sides of the car not just one
side.
Adjust as necessary until the settings
listed are achieved.
Once the set-up is completed Torque all the
suspension bolts to the settings listed in the
torque chart at the beginning of the
manual.
1
2
Check the toe angle that is currently set
on your car.
Remove the lower upright bolt
connecting the wishbone to the upright.
Suspension Set-up
14•5
8 Brake Bias- Setup
NOTE
The brake bias system enables you to
change how much effort is transferred to
the front or the rear brakes.
1
2
3
Slacken off the locking nuts at the clevis
ends.
From the right hand side of the balance
bar. Turn Clock Wise for rear bias and
Anti Clockwise for Front Bias.
The diagram below shows the bias bar
set in the centre. This will allow equal
pressure to front and rear (Fig 8.1).
8.3
6
7
8
9
The brakes should ideally be set up on a
rolling brake test machine as used by
MOT stations.
The bias should be set in the central
position to start with.
When on track you will be able to fine
tune your brakes. For the specific
weather and track conditions.
Once the brake bias has been set refit
the locking nuts.
NOTE
8.1
4
The diagram below shows the front bias
with the bar screwed over towards the
front master cylinder. This will transmit
more force to the front brakes (Fig 8.2).
8.2
5
The diagram below shows rear bias with
the bias bar screwed over to the rear
master cylinder this will apply more
force to the rear brakes (Fig 8.3).
The adjustable bias is not legal for road use.
A fixed bar is available from Westfield
Sportscars. Part No.
Revision 37
Chapter 1
SVA Cover Set
Contents
INTRODUCTION .............................................................. 1
Tools Required ................................................................ 1
Parts Required ................................................................ 2
FITTING OF SVA COVER SET ............................................ 3
1
Front Bolt Covers ................................................. 3
2
Fog & Reverse Lights ........................................... 4
3
Windscreen posts ................................................ 4
4
Harness Buckle Covers ......................................... 4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Rear Number Plate .............................................. 4
Hood Mounting Covers......................................... 4
Steering Wheel Cover .......................................... 5
Head Lamp Covers .............................................. 5
Head Lamp Raiser ............................................... 5
Bonnet Catch Covers ........................................... 5
Damper Covers ................................................... 5
INTRODUCTION
To prepare your car for SVA there are several covers that require fitting in order to meet the requirements for external projections.
Tools Required
A. Sharp Knife
B.
Silicone Gun
C.
Silicone Sealer
SVA Cover Set
Parts Required
A
B
C,E,J,L,N,P
D
F
H
I
K
M
Q
R
A. Cap Damper Collett x2
B.
Cap Track Rod Cover x2
C.
M6 Hex Head Bolt Covers x12
D. Spacer Headlamp Raiser x2
E.
M18 Hex Head Bolt Covers x2
F.
Cover Headlamp bracket GRP x2
G. Rubber U Section
H. Cover Bonnet Catch x2
I.
Leveling Bracket Rev Fog Lamp x2
J.
M14 Hex Head Bolt Covers x2
K.
Cap Windscreen Cover x4
L.
M12 Hex Head Bolt Covers x8
M. Cap Hood Frame x2
N. M8 Hex Head Bolt Covers x4
O. M10 Hex Head Bolt Covers x10
P.
th
7/16 Hex Head Bolt Covers x4
Q. Harness Buckle Cover x2
R.
Steering Whell cover (Not in SVA kit) x1
1•2
1•3 SVA Cover Set
FITTING OF SVA COVER SET
1 Front Bolt Covers
1
2
NOTE:
Locate from your parts (six M6 Hex
Head Bolt Covers[C])
Position the four M6 covers [C] on the
anti roll bar clevises nuts and bolts, if
your car is running anti roll bars. The
covers are fixed by simply pushing them
on (Fig 1.1).
A cover is required to protect the ball joint
locking nut. If you have not already fitted
the steering arm cover it will be necessary to
remove the track rod end to fit the cover.
6
two bolts securing the lower ball joint to
the wishbone (Fig 1.7).
Remove the track rod end if necessary,
cut the closed end off the sleeve. (Fig
1.4)
1.7
NOTE:
If you have anti roll bars fitted the front
edge of the tube needs covering this is done
by bonding a bolt in place with silicone then
fitting a bolt cover.
1.1
3
Position one M6 cover [C] over the M6
bolt head on the forward mounting of
the cycle wing bracket (Fig 1.2).
7
1.2
4
Position one M8 bolt cover [O] over the
M8 bolt securing the steering arm to the
upright. The steering arm also requires a
cover [C] on the M6 bolt securing the
steering arm to the upright (Fig 1.3).
Slide the sleeve over the track control
arm and refit the track rod end (Fig 1.5).
11 Locate a spear M8 bolt from your parts
applie a liberal amount of silicon sealant
to the end and insert into the open
section of the anti roll bar (Fig 1.8).
1.5
1.8
Slide the cover over to protect the
locking nut.
Locate from your parts one M10 bolt
cover [O]. Fit the cover over the nut
securing the track rod ball joint to the
steering arm (Fig 1.6).
12 Carefully position an M8 bolt cover [N]
over the bolt head.
13 Locate one M18 bolt cover [E] from your
parts.
14 Cut the domed end off the bolt cover
leaving just the hex section. Also cut a
slit down the center so that the cover
can be spread apart.
15 Fit the M18 cover [E] over the upper
wishbone ball joint lock nut. Secure with
a cable tie (Fig 1.9).
1.4
8
9
1.3
5
Locate from your parts the track rod
cover [B]
1.6
10 Locate from your parts two M10 bolt
covers [O]. Position the covers over the
SVA Cover Set
1•4
3 Windscreen posts
NOTE:
Where the side screens locate on the A
posts, require covers fitting to meet external
projection requirements.
1
1.9
2
Locate the four A post covers [K] from
your parts.
Push the covers over the lugs on the A
post covers (Fig 3.1).
4.2
16 Repeat the process for the other side of
the car.
5
2 Fog & Reverse Lights
5 Rear Number Plate
1
2
3
4
Locate from your parts two aluminium
leveling brackets[I].
Cover the edges of the brackets in small
U section trim [G].
Remove the fog and reverse lamps if
fitted.
Reposition the lamps with the bracket
behind the lamp with the fold in the
aluminium at the top of the lamp (Fig
2.1).
1
2
Repeat the process for the other three
buckles.
Locate some U section tube [G] from
your parts.
Fit the tubing to the rear edge of the
number plate surround (Fig 5.1).
3.1
3
Repeat the process for the other three
lugs.
4 Harness Buckle Covers
NOTE:
The buckle covers require 15mm cutting off
the pointed end so they can slide over the
eyelet.
1
2
2.1
5
6
Locate the U section tubing [G] from
your parts.
Position the tubing round the edge of
the outer plastic case of the reverse and
fog lamps (Fig 2.2).
3
Locate from your parts the four harness
buckle covers.
If necessary remove the buckles from
the eyelets.
Push the small end of the cover over the
eyelet, turning it inside out as you do so
(Fig 4.1).
5.1
6 Hood Mounting Covers
1
2
Locate from your parts the two brown
rubber covers [M].
Push the covers over the brackets fitted
to the chassis for fitting the hood (Fig
6.1).
6.1
4.1
4
2.2
Reconnect the buckle, pull the cover
over the buckle (Fig 4.2).
3
Repeat the process for the other side.
SVA Cover Set
1•5
7 Steering Wheel Cover
1
NOTE:
2
3
The steering wheel requires a cover that is
deformable for SVA.
1
2
Locate the two spacers [D] from your
parts.
Remove the headlamps from the car.
Refit the head lamp with the spacer
positioned on the threaded section of
the mounting point (Fig 9.1).
Locate the steering wheel cover [R] from
your parts
Push the cover over the wheel locating
the three lugs into the wheel (Fig 6.1).
9.1
4
5
7.1
NOTE:
Some SVA centers do not have a problem
with the headlamp brackets although some
have failed the brackets. To counter this
problem there are two GRP covers supplied
in your set.
2
10
Bonnet Catch Covers
NOTE:
8 Head Lamp Covers
1
Secure with the original nut.
Repeat the process for the other lamp.
Locate one of the covers they are sided
L/H & R/H.
Place the cover at the back of the
bracket and cable tie to the steel
headlamp bracket (Fig 8.1).
Two covers are required for the bonnet
catches if you are not running locks. The
covers are similar to the ones used for the A
pillar but they are larger.
1
2
11
Two covers are supplied to cover the height
adjustment ring on the damper [A]. The
covers require the center cutting out to fit
them. They are only required on the front
dampers.
2
9 Head Lamp Raiser
NOTE:
The head Lamps require lifting slightly for
SVA, two spacers are supplied in the kit to
do this.
Damper Covers
NOTE:
1
8.1
Locate from your parts the two plastic
covers [H] from your parts.
Press the covers over the latches
3
Cut the center from the cover. Also put
a slit in the edge so that it can be fitted
without removing the damper.
Wrap the cover round the damper and
cable tie in position.
Repeat the process for the other
damper.
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