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Windows Vista Annoyances
David A. Karp
Beijing • Cambridge • Farnham • Köln • Paris • Sebastopol • Taipei • Tokyo
Windows Vista Annoyances
by David A. Karp
Copyright © 2008 O’Reilly Media, Inc. All rights reserved.
Printed in the United States of America.
Published by O’Reilly Media, Inc., 1005 Gravenstein Highway North, Sebastopol, CA 95472.
O’Reilly books may be purchased for educational, business, or sales promotional use. Online
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our corporate/institutional sales department: (800) 998-9938 or [email protected]
Editors: John Osborn and
Laurel R.T. Ruma
Production Editor: Rachel Monaghan
Proofreader: Rachel Monaghan
Indexer: Lucie Haskins
Cover Designer: Karen Montgomery
Interior Designer: David Futato
Illustrator: Robert Romano
Printing History:
December 2007:
First Edition.
Nutshell Handbook, the Nutshell Handbook logo, and the O’Reilly logo are registered
trademarks of O’Reilly Media, Inc. Windows Vista Annoyances, the image of a horned frog,
and related trade dress are trademarks of O’Reilly Media, Inc.
Many of the designations used by manufacturers and sellers to distinguish their products are
claimed as trademarks. Where those designations appear in this book, and O’Reilly Media,
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While every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this book, the publisher and
author assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use
of the information contained herein.
This book uses RepKover™, a durable and flexible lay-flat binding.
ISBN-10: 0-596-52762-4
ISBN-13: 978-0-596-52762-4
[M]
Table of Contents
Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xiii
1. Get Started with Windows Vista . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Editions of Vista
More Than This
Install Windows Vista
Install Vista on a New (Clean) System
Upgrade from a Previous Version
Potential Problems During Setup
Set Up a Dual-Boot System
Migration to Windows Vista
Sentimental Fool
1
4
6
7
12
15
15
20
20
2. Shell Tweaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Customize Windows Explorer
Force Explorer to Remember Its Own Settings
Start Explorer with Any Folder
Get to the Desktop
Save Your Desktop Layout
Quick Access to Control Panel
Who Doesn’t Love Keyboard Shortcuts?
Massage the Start Menu
Clean Up the Tray
Make Your Own Windows Startup Logo
24
30
32
34
36
38
44
50
57
59
v
Working with Files and Folders
Why It Takes So Long to Copy Files
Slicker Ways to Select Files
Take Charge of Drag-Drop
Copy or Move to a Specified Path
More Ways to Rename Files
Delete In-Use Files
Zip It Up
Customize Drive and Folder Icons
Search Tricks
60
60
62
64
67
68
71
73
75
77
3. The Registry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
The Registry Editor
The Structure of the Registry
The Meat of the Registry: Values
Registry Tasks and Tools
Search the Registry
Search and Replace Registry Data
Find the Registry Key That Does...
Create an Interface for a Registry Setting
Export and Import Data with Registry Patches
Prevent Changes to a Registry Key
Back Up the Registry
File Type Associations
Anatomy of a File Type
Change the Icon for All Files of a Type
Customize Context Menus for Files
Lock Your File Types
Expand the Scope of Your File Types
Customize Windows Explorer’s New Menu
Fix Internet Shortcuts
84
87
89
94
94
97
98
103
108
113
116
122
124
127
131
139
141
142
145
4. Working with Media . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Playing Video
Repair Broken and Incomplete Videos
Fix Other Playback Problems
Simplify Your Media Players
vi |
Table of Contents
148
151
153
157
Handling Online Video
Rewind or Fast-Forward Streaming Video
Control Video Buffering
Download Online Video Clips
Sound and Music
Get Sound Where There Is None
Get Windows to Listen
Fix Garbled Music
Crossfade Your Music
Extract Sound from Video
Convert Audio Files
Fix Music Tags
Photos, Pictures, Images
Choose a New Pictures Folder
Get Thumbnails for RAW Photos
Get Rid of the Windows Photo Gallery
Get Accurate Color Output
Sort Photos Chronologically
Media Center Annoyances
Watch TV on Your TV
Fix Broken TV Listings
CD and DVD Drives
Troubleshoot CD and DVD Playback Problems
158
160
160
161
167
168
172
173
174
175
176
178
180
184
185
186
187
191
195
196
198
200
202
5. Performance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Trim the Fat
Tame Mindless Animation and Display Effects
Make Menus More Mindful
Start Windows in Less Time
Start Windows Instantly (Almost)
Shut Down Windows Quickly
Start Applications Faster
Make Your Hardware Perform
Get Glass
Maximize the Windows Performance Rating
Improve Battery Life
Table of Contents |
205
205
211
211
215
222
224
225
226
232
235
vii
Manage IRQ Priority
Overclock Your Processor
Hard Disk
A Defragmentation Crash Course
If in Doubt, Throw It Out
Optimize Virtual Memory and Cache Settings
Choose the Right Filesystem
Advanced NTFS Settings
Transfer Windows to Another Hard Disk
Work with Partitions
239
240
242
242
246
249
254
255
258
263
6. Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
Crashes and Error Messages
Viruses, Malware, and Spyware
What to Do When Windows Won’t Start
Manage Startup Programs
Check Your Drive for Errors with Chkdsk
What to Do When a Program Crashes
What to Do When a Program Won’t Start
Green Ribbon of Death
Blue Screen of Death
Dealing with Drivers and Other Tales of
Hardware Troubleshooting
How to Add Hardware
Interpret Device Manager Errors
Go Back in Time with Restore Points and Shadow Copies
Test for Bad Memory (RAM)
Don’t Overlook the Power Supply
Fix USB Power Management Issues
Fix Printer Problems
Preventive Maintenance and Data Recovery
Patch Windows with Windows Update
Quick, On-the-Fly Backups
Back Up Your Entire System
Recover Your System After a Crash
viii |
Table of Contents
276
277
286
291
294
298
303
305
307
313
314
318
322
326
328
328
329
329
330
331
332
339
7. Networking and Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
Build Your Network
Terminology Primer
To Wire or Not to Wire
Set Up a Wireless Router
Sniff Out WiFi Hotspots
Troubleshoot Wireless Networks
Lock Out Unauthorized PCs
Connect to a Public Wireless Network
Add Wireless Support to Any Device
Get Bluetooth to Work
Troubleshoot Network Connections
Test an IP Address
Internet Me
Share an Internet Connection
Test Your Throughput
Do Download Accelerators Really Work?
Set Up Virtual Private Networking
Control Your PC Remotely
Manage the Nameserver (DNS) Cache
Secure Your Networked PC
Close Vista’s Backdoors
The Security Center and the Firewall
Set Up the Windows Firewall
Scan Your System for Open Ports
Web and Email
Lock Down Internet Explorer
Change Internet Shortcut Icons
Live with Firefox in an IE World
Fix Symbols in Web Pages
Fix Broken Pictures in Web Pages
Improve Any Web Site
Put an End to Pop Ups
Solve the Blank Form Mystery
341
342
346
350
357
362
367
372
376
379
382
387
388
390
395
398
399
403
410
412
413
415
417
425
428
428
432
434
436
436
437
439
440
Table of Contents |
ix
Stop Annoying Animations
Opt Out of Tabbed Browsing
Surf Anonymously
Change the Default Email Reader
Stop Spam
Send Large Files
Email Long URLs
441
443
444
448
450
454
455
8. Users and Security . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457
Manage User Accounts
Permissions and Security
Set Permissions for a File or Folder
Protect Your Files with Encryption
Control User Account Control
Logon and Profile Options
Hide the List of User Accounts
Log In Automatically
Reset a Forgotten Administrator Password
Prevent Users from Shutting Down
Log In As the Administrator
Customize the Welcome Screen Background
Customize the Default Profile for New Users
Rename Your Profile Folder
Change the Locations of Personal Folders
Share Files and Printers
Share a Folder
Access a Shared Folder Remotely
Turn Off Administrative Shares
Share a Printer
Use a Print Server Without Software
Stop Sharing Scheduled Tasks
x
|
Table of Contents
457
462
463
470
480
487
487
488
490
491
491
493
494
495
496
498
499
503
505
508
510
511
9. Scripting and Automation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512
Windows Script Host
Build a VBScript Script
Use Variables to Store and Manipulate Information
Give Your Scripts an Interface with the InputBox and
MsgBox Commands
Creating Interactive Scripts with Conditional Statements
Using Loops, Using Loops, Using Loops
Make Building Blocks with Subroutines and Functions
Object References
How to Run Applications
How to Access the Registry
How to Manipulate Files
How to Create Windows Shortcuts and Internet Shortcuts
How to Use the Network
How to Control Internet Explorer
How to Use Command-Line Parameters
How to Manage Windows Services
How to Write CGI Scripts for Web Servers
Decipher Script Errors
Find a Better Editor
Further Study
Make a Startup Script
Wacky Script Ideas
Quick and Dirty Backup Tool
Internet Fishtank
Quick SendTo Shortcut Creator
Rename Files with Search and Replace
Command Prompt Scripting
DOS Commands
Batch Files
Variables and the Environment
514
514
515
516
518
519
520
523
523
524
526
530
531
533
534
536
537
540
543
543
544
546
546
548
550
551
552
553
556
557
Table of Contents |
xi
Flow Control
Command-Line Parameters
Conditional Statements
Loops
Simulating Subroutines
Get to the Command Prompt Quickly
Windows PowerShell
CmdLets and Aliases
Pipelines
PowerShell Variables
PowerShell Scripts
Automate Scripts with the Task Scheduler
559
559
561
562
563
563
564
565
567
568
570
571
A. BIOS Settings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 575
B. TCP/IP Ports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 585
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 589
xii
|
Table of Contents
Preface
Why Am I Annoyed?
Imagine a windowless room in a nondescript office building. Inoffensive tan
carpet lines the floors, fluorescent lights hum softly overhead, and 20 seated
Microsoft employees flank a rectangular folding table in the center of the
room. On the table rests a Windows PC, and at its helm, a slack-jawed
cipher punches blindly at the controls in a vain attempt to carry out a task
requested by the team leader.
“OK, here’s the next exercise: find a picture of a badger on the Internet and
print it out on that printer there,” says the leader.
The observers—members of Microsoft’s Usability Research Group—diligently note each click, keypress, and hesitation, hoping they’ll learn the
answer to the industry’s big secret: why do so many people find computers
difficult to use?
Over the years, Microsoft has uncovered many startling facts about PC users
with this system, and the software has been changed accordingly. For
instance, people new to computers apparently have a hard time with the
concept of overlapping windows. (Did I say “startling”? I meant “idiotic.”)
So, Microsoft spent six years designing a “Glass” interface for Windows
Vista with translucent borders that sort of show stuff underneath. Of course,
most people new to PCs figure out the concept of stacking windows after
about 10 minutes of fiddling, so is this actually a solution to a genuine
usability problem, or just glitzy eye candy included to give those still using
XP a compelling reason to upgrade?
Here’s another one: lots of people seem to get lost searching through long
menus for the tools they need, so once again, Microsoft snapped into
action. The team’s first attempt was “personalized menus”—a feature
xiii
found in earlier versions of Windows (including XP) and Microsoft Office—
which caused about half the items in a menu to vanish so nobody could find
them. In Windows Vista, Microsoft took a different tack and removed the
menus altogether. The good news is that you’ll no longer get lost looking
through menus. Of course, you won’t be able to find anything, either.
Or take the fact that, for years, people have been complaining about the
time it takes to load Windows. Rather than making the operating system
leaner and cleaner so that it starts faster, Microsoft’s designers have continued to add features and complexity to the software, which results in longer
load times. The solution? Replace the Shut Down button in the Start menu
with a Sleep button, so once Windows starts, it’ll stay loaded in memory
even when you shut it off. Thereafter, it’ll take only a few seconds to get
your desktop back.
Truth be told, features like Sleep have been around for years, but they’ve
always sat on the sidelines, waiting for inquisitive people to discover them.
But thanks to Vista, Sleep is now the main dish, which means Windows
should start much faster now—whether you’re the inquisitive type or not—
and this should make a lot of people happy. The downside, of course, is that
it takes a constant supply of electricity to keep Windows loaded in memory,
causing your PC to suck power 24 hours a day, 7 days a week...even when
you’re not using it. This means shorter-lasting laptop batteries, higher electricity bills, and more pollution from the power plants that now have to
power millions of sleeping Vista PCs.
What most people don’t know is that Sleep is actually a hybrid of the old
Standby and Hibernate power-saving modes, which means you can now
completely power off your PC and still get it to load quickly. Once again,
only the inquisitive—you, presumably—will be in the know, leaving the
masses to leave their PCs on all night.
Probably the most substantive change in Vista’s interface is the prominence
of the Search tool. Rather than being a separate window, it’s now permanently lodged in the Start menu and at the top of every Explorer window.
What’s more, Windows now invisibly indexes most of your data, making
search results more or less instantaneous (a feat possible in earlier versions
of Windows only with free add-on desktop search software).
Unfortunately, that speed comes at a cost—namely, that your searches may
be out-of-date or incomplete, and you won’t even know it. In some cases,
you can search a folder full of JPEG images for *.jpg and get absolutely
nothing, or worse, a partial listing with no warning that it may be incomplete. And when you do get the search results you want, there’s no telling
whether or not your favorite Details columns will be present since Vista
seems incapable of saving your preferences from one session to the next.
xiv |
Preface
In short, the new Search feature shows promise, but its competence is limited by a company that values marketable features over usable ones.
Hundreds of design decisions are made this way. Take content protection,
Vista’s copy-protection initiative for so-called “premium content” like highdefinition movies from Blu-Ray and HD DVD discs. According to
Microsoft’s standards, software and hardware manufacturers are supposed
to disable “premium content” across all interfaces that don’t provide copy
protection. One such interface is the S/PDIF digital audio port—usually in
the form of a TOSlink optical plug—that comes on most high-end audio
cards. Since S/PDIF doesn’t support copy protection—meaning that you
could theoretically plug it into another PC and rip the soundtrack off an HD
movie—Vista requires that your TOSlink plug be disabled whenever you
play back that HD movie on your PC. As a result, you’ll only be able to use
your analog audio outputs when watching HD content, and that expensive
sound card you just bought is now trash. Why would Microsoft hobble an
important feature? For you, the consumer? Of course not. Vista’s contentprotection feature is intended to appease piracy-wary movie studios, so
Microsoft won’t be left behind as the home theater industry finds new ways
to rake in cash. And ironically, Microsoft boasts “content protection” as a
feature of Vista.
Would Microsoft be making decisions like these if it had to compete fairly
for your business? After Europe’s second-highest court upheld a ruling that
Microsoft had abused its market power and stifled innovation, Neelie Kroes,
the European Union competition commissioner, stated that “the court has
confirmed the commission’s view that consumers are suffering at the hands
of Microsoft.”
So that leaves us lowly Vista users with a choice: do we continue to suffer
with Windows’ shortcomings, or take matters into our own hands?
Of Bugs and Features
The point of this book is to help you solve problems. Sometimes those problems are the result of bad design, such as the aforementioned shortcomings
of Vista’s search tool, and sometimes the problems are caused by bugs.
Take the Blue Screen of Death, a Windows mainstay for more than a decade.
Yes, it’s still alive and well in Vista, but now it has a cousin: the Green Ribbon of Death. As explained in Chapter 6, the Green Ribbon of Death—
capable of bringing Windows Explorer to its knees—comes from a combination of poor design and bugs in its code. And thus the reason for distinguishing where an annoyance becomes clear: you need to know what you’re
dealing with in order to fix it.
Preface |
xv
The User Account Control (UAC) feature in Windows Vista is a perfect
example of a feature gone awry. Most of the time, UAC does precisely what it
was designed to do—prevent programs from doing harm to your PC, occasionally asking your permission when it deems it appropriate to do so—but
the result is a system that frequently bothers you with UAC prompts, while
intermittently breaking your applications without telling you why. Because
this behavior isn’t caused by a bug per se, fixing the problem is instead just a
matter of customizing the system so that it suits your needs.
This inevitably leads to an important conclusion: one person’s annoyance is
another’s feature. Although Microsoft may be motivated more by profit than
excellence, often leading to products designed for the lowest common
denominator, you’re not bound to that fate. In other words, you should not
be required to adjust the way you think in order to complete a task on your
computer; rather, you should learn how to adjust the computer to work in a
way that makes sense to you.
But I prattle on. Feel free to dive in to any part of the book and start eliminating annoyances.
How To Use This Book
Windows Vista Annoyances is not documentation; you can get that anywhere. Rather, it’s a unique and thorough collection of solutions, hacks, and
time-saving tips to help you get the most from your PC.
Most topics begin by describing the problem, annoyance, or task at hand,
and include something you don’t often find in technical references: why
you’d want to complete the particular solution (and sometimes, why you
wouldn’t). Of course, if you’re in a hurry, you can always skip ahead to the
actual solution, easily identifiable by subheadings and numbered steps.
Although you certainly don’t need to read the chapters in order, the solutions and chapters are arranged so that you can progress easily from one
topic to the next, expanding your knowledge and experience as you go. You
should be able to jump to any topic as you need it, but if you find that you
don’t have the proficiency required by a particular solution, such as familiarity with the Registry, you can always jump to the appropriate section
(Chapter 3, in the case of the Registry).
There are nine chapters and two appendixes, as follows:
xvi |
Preface
Chapter 1, Get Started with Windows Vista. Get the low-down on what’s
special about Vista, as well as what’s annoying. Learn how to install (or
reinstall) the operating system in a variety of scenarios.
Chapter 2, Shell Tweaks. Customize Windows Explorer, the desktop, the
Start menu, and the Search tool to be less annoying and more useful.
Then, learn a host of file management tricks to help you work with your
stuff more effectively.
Chapter 3, The Registry. Dive inside Windows’ giant database of settings
and system configuration data, and learn about the various tools you
can use to explore, hack, and manage this valuable resource.
Chapter 4, Working with Media. Improve your experience with videos,
pictures, and music in Vista, and solve problems with CDs and DVDs.
Chapter 5, Performance. Speed up your PC and get it to work better. Get
the new Glass interface working, and take care of your hard disk.
Chapter 6, Troubleshooting. Learn what to do when Windows won’t start,
when applications crash, and when Windows can’t set up your new
hardware. Deal with the Blue Screen of Death, fix the Green Ribbon of
Death, and prevent data loss by backing up your PC.
Chapter 7, Networking and Internet. Get your local network up and running, get your wireless working (safely), and connect to the Internet.
Once you’ve connected, close all of Vista’s backdoors, and then
improve your experience with the Web and email.
Chapter 8, Users and Security. Protect your privacy and your data with
permissions, encryptions, and user account management. Tame the
User Account Control (UAC) prompt, customize your login, and share
your files and printers with others on your network.
Chapter 9, Scripting and Automation. Automate Vista with scripts, Command Prompt Batch files, Task Scheduler, and the new Windows
PowerShell. Explore the good ol’ DOS commands still used in the
Command Prompt, not to mention the times when Windows won’t boot.
Appendix A, BIOS Settings. This is a brief glossary of the often-neglected
motherboard settings that can significantly affect the stability and performance of your PC.
Appendix B, TCP/IP Ports. Look up common network port numbers, used
to identify data travelling on a network (or over the Internet), and essential for configuring and securing your network.
Preface |
xvii
Conventions Used in This Book
The following typographical conventions are used in this book:
Constant width
Indicates text you’re supposed to type, output from a command-line
program, code examples, Registry keys, and paths to Registry keys.
Constant width italic
Indicates user-defined elements within constant-width text (such as filenames or command-line parameters). For example, Chapter 8 discusses
a file encryption utility, cipher.exe, which has a variety of command-line
options. A particular solution might instruct you to type:
cipher /r:filename
The italicized portion of this code, filename, signifies the element you’ll
need to replace with whatever is applicable to your system or needs. The
rest—the non-italicized portion—should be typed exactly as shown.
Bold
Identifies captions, menus, buttons, checkboxes, tabs, keyboard keys,
drop-down lists and list options, and other interface elements. Bolding
interface elements makes it easy to distinguish them from the rest of the
text. For example, you may wish to turn off the Force Windows to
crash option.
Window/dialog titles are typically not bolded, but some objects (such as
Control Panel contents) can appear as icons or menu items, and therefore typically appear bolded.
Italic
Introduces new terms, indicates web site URLs, and sets apart file and
folder names.
Italic is also used to highlight chapter titles and, in some instances, to
visually separate the topic of a list entry.
{Curly braces}
Denote user-defined elements in paths or filenames, e.g., C:\Users\
{username}\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Windows\Start Menu.
“Quotation marks”
Are used sparingly in this book, and are typically used to set apart topic
headings and emphasize new concepts. Note that if you see quotation
marks around something you’re supposed to type, you should type the
quotation marks as well (unless otherwise specified).
xviii |
Preface
Path Notation
Occasionally, the following shorthand path notation is used to show
you how to reach a given user-interface element or option. The path
notation is always presented relative to a well-known location. For
example, the following path:
Control Panel ➝ Date and Time ➝ Internet Time tab
means “Open Control Panel, then open Date and Time, and then
choose the Internet Time tab.”
Keyboard shortcuts
When keyboard shortcuts are shown, a hyphen (such as Ctrl-Alt-Del)
or a plus sign (Winkey+R) means that you should press the keys
simultaneously.
This is an example of a tip, often used to highlight a particularly useful hint or time-saving shortcut. Tips often point to
related information elsewhere in the book.
This is an example of a warning, which alerts you to a potential pitfall of the solution or application being discussed.
Warnings can also refer to a procedure that might be dangerous if not carried out in a specific way.
Request for Comments
Please address comments and questions concerning this book to the publisher:
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You can also send messages electronically. To be put on the mailing list or
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To comment or ask technical questions about this book, send email to:
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Preface
| xix
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Acknowledgments
I’d like to start by thanking the folks at O’Reilly Media, Inc. It’s a supreme
pleasure to work with people who are dedicated to quality and are passionate about their work. Special thanks to Tim O’Reilly for his enthusiasm,
support, and commitment to quality. Thanks to John Osborn, Laurel Ruma,
Kyley Caldwell, and Rachel Monaghan for helping me get this edition
together and out in time.
Thanks also to Debbie Timmins, Rob Cohen, and Tim Vander Kooi for their
comments, and thanks to everyone on the team who worked on this book.
I’d like to thank my family, friends, and well-wishers—in that they didn’t
wish me any specific harm—all of whom put up with my deadlines and latenight writing binges.
Bye bye, Maeby.
Finally, all my love to Torey Bookstein.
xx |
Preface
Chapter 1Making the Most of Vista
CHAPTER 1
Get Started with Windows Vista
Windows Vista is like a papaya: sleek on the outside, but a big mess on the
inside.
Love it or hate it, Vista is what Microsoft is serving up right now. Whether it
goes down smoothly or gives you heartburn is up to you.
On the plus side, Vista gives you a new, faster Search tool; the shiny, translucent “Glass” interface; and a revamped Windows Explorer. It’s also the
first version of Windows where you can get Tablet PC and Media Center in
the same package, which means you can use it to build a DVR (Digital Video
Recorder) without a keyboard. And Vista handles videos and pictures much
better than earlier versions of Windows, with improved thumbnail and
metadata support built right into Windows Explorer.
As for the minuses, Vista seems intolerably slow compared with its predecessors, and its reliability leaves something to be desired. The Green Ribbon
of Death is an everyday occurrence, bringing down Windows Explorer if you
so much as bat your eyes at it. And the horrendously annoying User Access
Control (UAC) prompt forces you to endure repeated prompts for even the
most mundane tasks in Control Panel.
Fortunately, you can deal with most of the minuses. For instance, to tame
UAC, see Chapter 8. Or, to fix the Green Ribbon of Death (or the Blue
Screen of Death for that matter), see Chapter 6. And to make Vista run
faster, check out Chapter 5. But if you want to take stock of what you have
and install the operating system on your PC, then Chapter 1 is for you.
Editions of Vista
Internally, Windows Vista refers to itself as Windows 6.0. When held up
against Windows 2000 (Windows 5.0) or XP (5.1), that means nothing more
than the fact that Microsoft considers Vista to be a major milestone, and the
1
basis for its operating systems for the next few years at least. (It’s been seven
years since Windows 2000.)
Windows Vista is available in several different editions, each of which is supposedly intended for a different market. They’re all the same version—effectively, the same software—differing only in the toys included in the box.
The top of the line is the Ultimate edition, available at more than twice the
cost of the baseline Home Basic edition. The Home Premium and Business
editions include most of the extras found in Ultimate, but at a cost only
slightly higher than Home Basic. On the fringe, you’ll find the Starter and
Enterprise editions, as well as Windows Home Server. See the “What Does 64Bit Vista Get Me?” sidebar, next, for details on the 64-bit versions of Vista.
What Does 64-Bit Vista Get Me?
More bits gets you access to more memory. The processor inside your PC
communicates with your system memory (RAM) with numeric addressing.
Thus the maximum amount of memory a 32-bit processor can address is 232
bytes, or 4 gigabytes. Newer 64-bit processors—not to mention the 64-bit
operating systems that run on them—can address 264 bytes of memory, or
17,179,869,184 gigabytes (16 exabytes) of RAM.
(17 million gigabytes may sound like a lot of space now, but it won’t be long
before you’ll be taking baby pictures with an 8-gigapixel digital camera.)
Windows NT, released in 1993, was Microsoft’s first fully 32-bit operating
system. But it took eight years before the platform, which had since evolved
into Windows 2000 and then XP, became mainstream. (For those keeping
track, Windows 9x doesn’t count because it was a hybrid OS that ran 32-bit
applications on a 16-bit DOS foundation, which was one of the reasons it was
so unstable.) 64-bit Windows became a reality in XP, but Vista is Microsoft’s
first serious attempt to make 64-bit computing mainstream. But the question
is, how mainstream is it?
While 64-bit Vista can run most 32-bit applications without a problem, it’s
not compatible with 32-bit hardware drivers or 32-bit utilities like Windows
Explorer extensions (e.g., context menu add-ons). This means that you need
a native 64-bit driver for every device on your PC. And since 64-bit Vista
won’t load unsigned drivers (see Chapter 6), finding support for all your hardware may be a bit of a challenge, at least presently. Since most Vista installations are still 32-bit, most manufacturers aren’t bothering to compile, test,
and support 64-bit drivers and software.
—continued—
2 |
Chapter 1: Get Started with Windows Vista
Get Started with
Windows Vista
Now, 64-bit software running on 64-bit Windows has been known to run as
much as 10% faster, which illustrates the other reason—aside from memory
addressing—that people find 64-bit Vista alluring. Just be prepared for lackluster industry support, at least for the next few years until Microsoft releases a 64bit-only OS.
It should also be noted that, at the time of this writing, most 64-bit antivirus
programs running on 64-bit Vista performed very poorly compared with their
32-bit counterparts. Of course, there aren’t a lot of 64-bit viruses out there
right now, but that doesn’t mean a 32-bit virus can’t do some harm.
All editions of Vista (except Starter) are available in both the 32-bit or 64-bit
varieties; the retail Ultimate edition even includes both 32-bit and 64-bit DVDs
right in the box. If you have 32-bit Vista (other than Ultimate), you can get
the 64-bit version of your edition (http://www.microsoft.com/windowsvista/
1033/ordermedia/), and assuming your license key checks out, you only pay
shipping. But beware: once you “convert” your key to work with the 64-bit
version, you won’t be able to use it to reinstall the 32-bit version, should you
decide to go back.
Regardless, all of the solutions in this book apply to both the 32-bit and 64bit versions of Windows Vista unless otherwise noted.
The differences among the editions are outlined in Table 1-1. See the next
section for ways you can make up the difference if you’re not using the Ultimate edition.
Table 1-1. What you get (and what you don’t) with the various editions of Windows
Vista
Home
Basic
Aero Glass interface
Back Up Files wizard
✓
Home
Premium
Business
Enterprise
Ultimate
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
Complete PC Backup and Restore
✓
✓
✓
Dual processor support
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
Backup scheduler
Encryption – BitLocker drive encryption
Encryption – file and folder encryption (EFS)
✓
✓
✓
Fax and Scan
✓
✓
✓
Group Policy Editor (gpedit.msc)
✓
✓
✓
Editions of Vista |
3
Table 1-1. What you get (and what you don’t) with the various editions of Windows
Vista (continued)
Home
Basic
IIS (Internet Information Services) 7.0
Web server
Home
Premium
Business
Enterprise
Ultimate
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
Join a corporate network domain
Local Security Policy Editor (secpol.msc)
✓
✓
✓
Local Users and Groups Manager (lusrmgr.msc)
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
Multi-Lingual User Interface
✓
Offline files and folders (sync with network
folders)
✓
Premium games (InkBall, Mahjong Titans,
Chess Titans)
✓
Remote Desktop
✓
✓
✓
Shadow Copies
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
Subsystem for UNIX-based Applications (SUA)
System Memory supported (64-bit only)
16 GB
128 GB
128 GB
128 GB
Tablet PC extras (Handwriting recognition,
pen flicks, Windows Touch technology)
8 GB
✓
✓
✓
✓
Windows DVD Maker
✓
✓
✓
Windows Media Center
✓
Windows Meeting Space
Join only
✓
✓
✓
✓
Windows Movie Maker high definition support
SD only
HD+SD
SD only
SD only
HD+SD
✓
✓
✓
✓
Windows SideShow support
Windows Ultimate Extras
✓
More Than This
Got Vista envy? Are you using the Home Basic, Home Premium, or Business editions, and wish you could have the benefits of Ultimate? Here are
the big-ticket differences among the editions, and, when applicable, how to
get the extra features at little or no extra cost:
Aero Glass
The translucent “Glass” interface is available on every edition except
Home Basic, although Vista’s basic Aero interface (without transparency effects) is available on all editions. See “Get Glass,” in Chapter 5,
for alternatives for Home Basic.
4 |
Chapter 1: Get Started with Windows Vista
BitLocker Drive Encryption
BitLocker, included only with the Ultimate and Enterprise editions, is a
method by which you can encrypt an entire drive, as opposed to the more
basic folder and file-level encryption features included in the Business,
Enterprise, and Ultimate editions. Freeware alternatives include FreeOTFE
(http://www.freeotfe.org/) and TrueCrypt (http://www.truecrypt.org/). See
Chapter 8 for the skinny on encryption.
Group Policy Object Editor
Several solutions in this book use the Group Policy Object Editor
(gpedit.msc) to change a few esoteric settings, but this tool isn’t included
in the Home Basic or Home Premium editions. If the gpedit.msc file isn’t
on your system, you can access most of these settings with Vista’s net
command-line tool (provided you open the Command Prompt in
administrator mode), as explained in Chapter 8.
Local Security Policy
The Local Security Policy tool (secpol.msc) provides access to advanced
settings, the useful ones relating mostly to Vista’s UAC feature; see
“Control User Account Control,” in Chapter 8, for details.
Local Users and Groups
The Local Users and Groups tool (lusrmgr.msc) duplicates some user
account management features found elsewhere in Windows, and offers
a few extras. See “Log In As the Administrator,” in Chapter 8, for a
workaround if you don’t have this tool.
Media Center
See Chapter 4 for free alternatives to the Media Center application
included with the Home Premium and Ultimate editions.
Remote Desktop
TightVNC, a freeware remote control application, works with any version of Windows, or for that matter, Mac OS X, Linux, and even Apple’s
iPhone. See “Control Your PC Remotely,” in Chapter 7, for details.
Shadow Copies
Vista’s Previous Versions tool, which can be used to automatically back up
files you’re working on, makes use of the Shadow Copies feature in the
Business, Enterprise, and Ultimate editions. See Chapter 6 for alternatives.
Editions of Vista |
5
Get Started with
Windows Vista
Backup and Restore Center
See “Preventive Maintenance and Data Recovery,” in Chapter 6, for
details on Windows’ various versions of its backup software, as well as
free alternatives.
Tablet PC
You can use a tablet with any edition of Vista, as long as its manufacturer provides a native Vista driver. But the Tablet PC subsystem, which
adds handwriting recognition and a few other gimmicks like gestures,
isn’t available in Home Basic. If you want handwriting in Home Basic,
you may be able to use the “Microsoft Windows XP Tablet PC Edition
2005 Recognizer Pack”; just go to http://search.microsoft.com/ and
search for TRPSetup.exe.
Windows Movie Maker
You can download Windows Movie Maker for all editions of Vista; just
go to http://search.microsoft.com/ and search for MM26_ENU.msi.
Install Windows Vista
Installing an operating system is not among the 10 “must have” experiences
in your life. Rather, it can be a slow, agonizing process, and can be unceremoniously aborted for a variety of reasons.
Depending on your hardware, just booting up the setup disc can be a headache. You then must sit and wait...and wait...for Windows to copy some
2,000 files to your hard disk and then go through the excruciating process of
“configuring” your computer. When it finally boots—assuming it even
makes it this far—you then have the unenviable task of having to download
and install more than a hundred megabytes’ worth of updates and fixes. And
when all is said and done, you still will need to go through and turn off all of
the annoying “features” littered throughout the interface and then fix the
myriad of problems that are sure to pop up.
But the worst part is the feeling you can’t shake: that you chose to install
Windows Vista on your machine, and now you’ve got to live with it. (Of
course, this may not apply to you if you got Vista preinstalled on a new PC,
at least not yet....)
Both the steps to begin the installation procedure and the procedure itself
can vary, depending on what’s already installed on your system (if anything) and how you choose to approach the task. If you’re installing over an
older version of Windows, use Table 1-2 to cross-reference the old version
with the edition of Vista you’re installing and determine whether or not
upgrading is an option.
6 |
Chapter 1: Get Started with Windows Vista
Vista
Home Basic
Vista
Home Premium
✓
✓
Windows XP Professional
Windows XP Home
Windows XP Media Center
Vista
Business
Vista
Ultimate
✓
✓
✓
✓
✓
Windows XP Tablet PC
Get Started with
Windows Vista
Table 1-2. Vista upgrade compatibility chart; a checkmark (✓) means you can upgrade
from within the older version, no checkmark means you need to perform a clean install
✓
✓
✓
Windows XP 64-bit
Windows 2000
Install Vista on a New (Clean) System
Use this method to set up Vista on a brand-new, empty hard disk, or if you
don’t want to upgrade an earlier version of Windows (discussed in the next
section). See the upcoming sidebar, “Reduce Vista’s Footprint,” before you
proceed if you want to customize the installation.
The Windows Vista installation disc is bootable, which means that you can
pop it in your drive, turn on the computer, and the installation process will
start automatically.
If your PC doesn’t boot off your Vista disc, you’ll need to do one of the
following:
BIOS setup
Enter your BIOS setup utility (discussed in Appendix A), navigate to the
Boot section, and change the boot device priority or boot sequence so
that your DVD drive appears before your hard disk. Save your changes
and exit BIOS setup when you’re finished.
Boot menu
Alternatively, some PCs provide a “boot menu” that lets you choose the
boot drive on the fly. Look for a message above or below the boot
screen right after you power on your PC; usually, all you do is press the
F12 key (before the beep; don’t dawdle), select your CD/DVD drive
from a list, and hit Enter.
When your PC detects a bootable disc, you’ll usually see this message for
three to four seconds:
Press any key to boot from CD or DVD...
Install Windows Vista
|
7
Reduce Vista’s Footprint
When you install Vista, the setup program basically unpacks a standard
installation from a disc image on the DVD. This is why there are so few questions asked during setup, no optional components to include, and no way to
exclude the tons of sample media files Vista includes. Sure, once Vista is
installed, you can subsequently go through it and thin out this bloated
behemoth, but wouldn’t it be easier to lighten the load before you install?
Fortunately, there’s vLite, a free utility available at http://www.vlite.net/,
which lets you customize your Vista installation before you install a single file
to your PC. It requires a functional PC (and a DVD burner) to run, but, of
course, you can always install Vista as-is first, and then wipe your hard disk
clean before you install the vLite version.
Using your original setup disc as a template, vLite walks you through the process creating a new, custom disc, allowing you to:
• Integrate available Windows updates, language packs, and hardware
drivers, so you don’t have to install them later (a great time-saver if
you’re setting up more than one PC).
• Remove unwanted components.
• Tweak default settings, like disabling UAC, enabling Hibernation, and
unhiding filename extensions in Windows Explorer.
• Split a DVD disc into CDs so you can install Vista on a PC without a
DVD reader, or consolidate a set of CDs into a DVD-based install to
save time.
• Embed your product key on the disc so you don’t have to type it each
time, or add other features to create an “unattended” installation.
When you’re done, vLite burns your custom installer to a DVD you can use
just like an ordinary Vista disc.
Press a key on the keyboard, and in a few moments, setup should load normally and display its Welcome screen. On the first screen, click Next to display the Install Windows screen shown Figure 1-1. From here, click Install
now to proceed.
On the next page, setup asks for your product key, which you can read off
the DVD sleeve or the sticker on your PC case. Mercifully, Microsoft now
allows you to skip this step—leave the field blank, click Next, and then
answer No—so you don’t have to waste time fishing around for the sticker
and typing the excruciating 25-digit key. This is a particularly nice time-saver
in the event that setup fails and you have to start over, or if you’re only setting up a temporary Vista installation for software testing or data recovery.
8 |
Chapter 1: Get Started with Windows Vista
Get Started with
Windows Vista
Figure 1-1. From this page, click “Install now” to begin setup, or “Repair your computer”
to use the repair tools explained in Chapter 6
If you complete setup without typing your key, make sure
you choose the edition of Vista you actually own. If you
choose the wrong edition, you won’t be able to change it
later without reinstalling from scratch. When Vista boots,
it’ll operate in a fully functional “evaluation mode” you can
use normally for 30 days. If you don’t enter a valid product
key for the edition you chose during setup in time—through
the System page in Control Panel—Vista goes into a lockdown mode. (See the next section, “Install clean with only
an upgrade disc,” for a way to extend this evaluation period.)
So, if this installation ends up being a keeper, don’t put this
step off, lest you risk making the data on your hard disk
more-or-less inaccessible.
A few pages later, you’ll be asked “Which type of installation do you
want?,” at which point you can select Upgrade or Custom (advanced). The
Upgrade option is only available if you install Vista from within a previous
version of Windows, as described later in this chapter. So, click Custom
(advanced) to advance to the “Where do you want to install Windows?”
page, and then click the Drive options link to reveal the partition editor
shown in Figure 1-2. See Chapter 5 for more information on partitions and
the tools included with Vista to manage them.
Install Windows Vista
|
9
Figure 1-2. Click the “Drive options” link to show these drive preparation and partition
editing tools
If the hard disk is clean, and you want to use the entire hard disk for your
Vista installation, just click Next to proceed. Otherwise, use Delete to wipe
out any existing partitions—as well as the data on them (warning: there’s no
undo here)—and New to create new partitions on the drive.
Follow the screens to complete setup. If setup crashes along the way, or
Vista won’t boot after you’re done, see “Potential Problems During Setup,”
later in this chapter.
Install clean with only an upgrade disc
So you thought you’d save a little money by purchasing the “upgrade” version of Vista, but now you find yourself in a bit of a jam. Your hard disk
crashed, and without a full backup (see Chapter 6), you need to rebuild your
system. Or perhaps you’ve decided against upgrading XP directly to avoid
passing on six years of accumulated junk to your new operating system.
Either way, you’ve undoubtedly discovered that your upgrade disc won’t
install if it can’t find an eligible Windows installation to upgrade.
10 |
Chapter 1: Get Started with Windows Vista
Instead, just follow these steps to get a fresh Vista installation from an
upgrade disc:
1. Use your Vista disc to boot your PC, as described in “Install Vista on a
New (Clean) System.”
2. When setup loads, click Install now and proceed normally.
3. When prompted for the product key, leave the field blank, and just click
Next.
4. Without the key, setup will ask you which edition of Vista you’d like to
install; make sure you choose the edition you’ve actually purchased.
5. When setup is complete, you’ll be operating in the 30-day evaluation
period, but you won’t be able to activate Vista until you enter your
product key.
To enter the product key, open a Command Prompt window in administrator mode, as explained in “Control User Account Control” in
Chapter 8, and then type this at the prompt:
cscript \windows\system32\slmgr.vbs -ipk xxxxx-xxxxx-xxxxx-xxxxx-xxxxx
where xxxxx-xxxxx-xxxxx-xxxxx-xxxxx is your Vista product key, taken
from the DVD sleeve or the sticker on your PC case. Press Enter to
proceed.
If this doesn’t work, you may need to temporarily deactivate
the UAC feature as described in Chapter 8, and then try
again. Then, reactivate UAC when you’re done (should you
so desire).
6. Next, activate Vista with this command:
cscript \windows\system32\slmgr.vbs –ato
and press Enter. To verify that activation was successful, type this:
cscript \windows\system32\slmgr.vbs –dlv
7. Type exit or close the Command Prompt window when you’re done.
Using a process known as rearming, you can extend Vista’s
evaluation period up to two or three times, for a total of 120
days. Just execute the slmgr.vbs script with the -rearm parameter. It will take 15–30 seconds to make the change, at
which point you’ll need to restart Windows.
Install Windows Vista
|
11
Get Started with
Windows Vista
In this scenario, Microsoft suggests that you install XP and then install Vista
over it. Not bloody likely.
Upgrade from a Previous Version
Microsoft suggests that anyone installing Vista on a PC that already has a
recent version of Windows on it should use the Upgrade feature; that is,
boot into the old Windows installation and start Vista setup from within.
There are a few reasons you may want to do this:
Preserve your programs. If you upgrade to Vista from within, you won’t
have to reinstall all your applications and their settings. Of course, most
of your programs will need to be updated or eventually reinstalled to
work with Vista, but at least you won’t have to do it all at once.
Preserve your settings. Some of your custom file type associations
(Chapter 3) and Windows Explorer settings (Chapter 2) will be preserved during the upgrade, as will most of the settings (custom toolbars, etc.) in your installed programs.
Preserve your drive letters. If you have more than one hard disk (or more
than one partition), the upgrade process preserves your drive letters.
Sure, you can reassign drive letters at any time, with the exception of the
Windows drive. When you do a “clean” install, setup insists on naming
the Vista drive C:, regardless of the partition you choose during setup
(see Figure 1-2, earlier).
Save time, sort of. It takes a lot less time, at least initially, to upgrade a previous version than to install Vista “clean” and subsequently install and
set up all your programs. Of course, down the road, you’ll spend a lot
more time troubleshooting your upgraded system than you would a
fresh install. And there’s also the fact that a freshly installed Vista will
easily outperform an upgraded one (more below).
It’s easier. Upgrading is easier, but again, only initially.
As you can see, it’s not all lollipops and rainbows. Here’s why you may want
to install fresh rather than upgrade a previous version:
Time for a little spring cleaning. How long have you been using that previous version of Windows? If you got XP when it came out, you’ve
amassed as much as six years of junk—drivers, software, spyware, video
codecs, and countless leftovers from software you don’t even use
anymore—that will continue to bog down Vista once you upgrade. If you
take this opportunity to start anew, you’ll have a leaner, faster PC when
all is said and done, even if it does take more time to set up at the outset.
Be free of old hardware drivers. Even if Vista updates every hardware
driver on your PC during an upgrade installation, pieces of the old drivers and support software—not to mention Registry settings from those
12 |
Chapter 1: Get Started with Windows Vista
It’s harder. OK, this may not seem like a selling point for a fresh install, but
why back away from a challenge? It’s not that much harder than
upgrading.
Set up a dual-boot system. You’ll need to install fresh if you want to keep
your old Windows installation intact; see “Set Up a Dual-Boot System,”
later in this chapter, for details.
Before upgrading or installing fresh on a hard disk containing data, you’d be wise to back up the entire system. But
make sure the backup software you use—not to mention the
backup device—will also operate in Windows Vista so you
can read the media after the install is complete; otherwise,
your backup will be worthless. See Chapter 6 for details on
restoring data from a backup made in an earlier version of
Windows.
So, if you want to proceed to upgrade your old software, just pop in the
Vista disc and start the setup program. See “Install Vista on a New (Clean)
System,” earlier in this chapter, for details on some of the screens you’ll
encounter, and some tips about the product key. Otherwise, the upgrade
pretty much takes care of itself. If setup crashes along the way, or Vista
won’t boot after you’re done, see “Potential Problems During Setup,” later
in this chapter.
Special case: Reinstall Vista
You may find yourself in a position where you’ll need to reinstall Windows
Vista, usually in an effort to solve a nasty problem or to repair a damaged
installation. The procedure you choose depends on the current state of your
computer.
If Vista won’t start, see “What to Do When Windows Won’t Start” in
Chapter 6. In most cases, you’ll need to use your Vista setup disc, but you
won’t need to reinstall.
If you’re able to start Vista and it’s working well enough to reliably access
your DVD drive, but poorly enough that you’re considering reinstalling,
then you’ll need to decide whether to reinstall (“upgrade” as Vista setup
puts it) or install a second copy on your PC.
Install Windows Vista
|
13
Get Started with
Windows Vista
old versions—will remain on your system and undoubtedly cause headaches down the road. Don’t be surprised if you can’t get your sound
card—or any sound card, for that matter—to work on an upgraded
Vista installation.
An in-place reinstallation is the easiest way to go, and despite the warnings
in the previous section, probably won’t make things any worse. Just pop the
DVD in your drive and follow the prompts. When asked what type of installation you want, select Upgrade and then follow the prompts.
But if your Vista installation is sufficiently munged, you may choose to install
Vista fresh without harming your existing installation, as described next.
Fresh install on a dirty drive
As opposed to a “clean” drive, a dirty drive in this context is one that already
has data on it. There are times you need to install Vista on a hard disk that
already has a Windows installation, yet you don’t want to perform an inplace upgrade or set up a dual-boot system.
For instance, if Vista won’t start, and none of the solutions in Chapter 6
help you fix the problem, then you can do what’s called a parallel installation, which allows you to start your PC and access your data. You may also
want to do this if you have a Windows XP installation you don’t want to
upgrade.
If you have more than one hard disk or partition, you can
install Vista on a drive other than the one currently containing Windows. See “Set Up a Dual-Boot System,” later in this
chapter, for details.
To install Vista fresh on a drive with data on it, follow these steps:
1. Insert a Vista disc in your drive and boot off the DVD, as described in
“Install Vista on a New (Clean) System,” earlier in this chapter.
2. When you see the “Install Now” page, click the Repair your computer
link at the bottom to get to the System Recovery Options window
shown in Figure 6-3 (in Chapter 6).
3. From the list, select Command Prompt.
4. When the Command Prompt appears, change to your Windows drive,
usually C:, by typing the drive letter and a colon (c:) and pressing Enter.
5. Rename the Windows folder to windows.old, like this:
ren windows windows.old
6. Rename the Program Files folder to programs.old, like this:
ren "program files" programs.old
7. Type exit or close the Command Prompt when you’re done.
8. Restart your PC and boot onto the Vista setup DVD again.
9. Install Vista onto your Windows drive, as described earlier in this chapter.
14 |
Chapter 1: Get Started with Windows Vista
Potential Problems During Setup
The most common cause of a failed installation of Windows Vista is an
out-of-date BIOS. If setup crashes, or if Vista won’t boot after you finish
installing, check with the manufacturer of your system or motherboard for
any BIOS updates, and update your BIOS if needed. Better yet, make sure
you have the latest BIOS before you begin installation, particularly if your
PC is more than a year old.
Another common stumbling block to a successful Windows Vista setup is
your video card (display adapter). If setup stops with an unintelligible error
message, reboots unexpectedly during setup, or just hangs at a blank screen,
your video card may be at fault. Unfortunately, setup will rarely, if ever,
warn you about such an incompatibility before you begin. If replacing the
video card permits Windows Vista to install, then the culprit is obvious.
Next, if you see an error that says something like “failed to open the windows image file,” this is an indictment of your DVD drive. Setup installs
Vista from a single, huge hard-disk image file, and some older drives can’t
handle files larger than 3 gigabytes in size. The solution is to replace the
drive, or, if you’re particularly attached to the drive and you’re not in a
hurry, purchase a copy of Vista setup on a stack of CDs (which Microsoft
calls “alternate media”) and try again.
Lastly, if it’s an older disc, the culprit might be nothing more than a little
dust; wipe the disk against your shirt and try again.
Set Up a Dual-Boot System
With a dual-boot (or multiboot) setup, you can install multiple operating
systems side-by-side on the same computer, and simply choose which one to
use each time you boot. So, why would you want to do this?
Both ends burning
If you rely on some software or hardware that won’t operate in Windows Vista, you can install Vista and the other OS on the same system
simultaneously. And there’s no reason you can’t install Vista alongside
Linux, or even (if you have an Intel-based Mac) alongside Mac OS X.
Or, if you’re using the 64-bit version of Vista, you might need to keep
that old XP installation around so you can run all that 16-bit software
you use every day (16-bit software won’t run on Vista-64).
Install Windows Vista
|
15
Get Started with
Windows Vista
When setup is complete, Vista will boot normally, at which point you’ll be
able to glean old files off of the Windows.old and Programs.old folders as
needed. Eventually, you can delete these relics.
Just testing
If you’re in the process of upgrading from an earlier version of Windows to Windows Vista, you may wish to test Vista with your existing
software and hardware without having to commit to the new OS until
you’re certain it will meet your needs. Of course, you can also do this with
Microsoft Virtual PC 2007, freely available from http://www.microsoft.com/
virtualpc/. Depending on your timing, you may even be able to download certain versions of Windows preinstalled on a Virtual Hard Disk
that you can run in place on your PC; see http://www.microsoft.com/vhd
for details.
Software testbed
Install two copies of Windows Vista on your system—one for normal
use, and one as a testbed for new software and hardware. That way, you
can try out a potentially buggy product without jeopardizing the main
OS on which you rely. Again, you can also use Virtual PC for this purpose, but it’s just so darn slow....
Backdoor
Got disk space to burn? Install Vista twice, and keep the second installation around to easily access your data in case your primary installation
fails.
For that matter, you can set up a dual-boot system after a Vista installation fails, and get to your valuable data without first having to repair
Windows.
Windows Vista comes with built-in support for a dual-boot system. The
dual-boot feature, called the Windows Boot Manager, is installed automatically when you install Vista, whether you set up a dual-boot system or not.
If, at the end of the installation, Windows Vista is the only operating system on your computer, it boots automatically without giving you a choice.
Otherwise, you’ll see a menu of installed operating systems, from which you
can choose the OS you wish to use.
To set up a dual-boot system, you’ll need at least two partitions: one for each
operating system. Install the first OS on any drive you like. Then, during
Vista setup, when you see the “Where do you want to install Windows?”
page (Figure 1-2), just select the empty drive, and setup will do the rest.
See Chapter 5 for more information on partitions, including
a way to divide your current single-partition drive into two
partitions without having to reformat.
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Chapter 1: Get Started with Windows Vista
Some other operating systems, such as FreeBSD and Windows 2000, have boot managers of their own, and can therefore be installed either before or after Vista is installed with
little additional fuss. However, those operating systems
without their own boot managers, such as Windows 9x/
Me, will break the Windows Vista boot manager if installed
subsequently.
Modify the Boot Manager configuration
The Windows Boot Manager is responsible for loading Vista, and, optionally, booting any other operating systems you may have installed.
The Boot Manager in both Windows XP and 2000 stored its configuration
in a tiny, easily editable file called boot.ini in the root folder of your C: drive,
but in Windows Vista, this file is no longer used. If you install Vista on an XP
system, and then open the boot.ini file left behind, you’ll see this message:
;Warning: Boot.ini is used on Windows XP and earlier operating systems.
;Warning: Use BCDEDIT.exe to modify Windows Vista boot options.
The BCDEdit (bcdedit.exe) tool that comes with Vista is a command-line
tool, and isn’t exactly user-friendly. Open a Command Prompt window (in
administrator mode, as described in Chapter 8), type bcdedit and press
Enter, and you’ll see output that looks something like this:
Windows Boot Manager
-------------------identifier
device
description
locale
inherit
default
displayorder
toolsdisplayorder
timeout
{bootmgr}
partition=C:
Windows Boot Manager
en-US
{globalsettings}
{default}
{ntldr}
{default}
{memdiag}
3
Install Windows Vista
|
17
Get Started with
Windows Vista
In most cases, the boot manager of the most-recently installed operating system is the one that will be used for all your operating systems, so the
sequence in which you install your operating systems is very important.
Most of the time, you’ll need to install older operating systems before newer
ones. For instance, on a PC with Windows 98, just install Vista on a different drive, and voilà: you’ll have a functional dual-boot system.
Windows Legacy OS Loader
-----------------------identifier
{ntldr}
device
partition=C:
path
\ntldr
description
Earlier version of Windows
Windows Boot Loader
------------------identifier
device
path
description
locale
inherit
osdevice
systemroot
resumeobject
nx
detecthal
{default}
partition=D:
\Windows\system32\winload.exe
Microsoft Windows Vista
en-US
{bootloadersettings}
partition=D:
\Windows
{70c7d34d-b6b4-12db-cc71-d30cdb1ce261}
OptIn
Yes
What a mess. In short, the first section describes the menu you see when you
first boot; the second section here— Windows Legacy OS Loader —describes the
older version of Windows (XP); and finally, the third section— Windows Boot
Loader —describes your new Vista installation.
If you type bcdedit /? at the prompt, you’ll see a bunch of command-line
parameters you can use to add or remove entries, choose a new default (the
OS that’s loaded if you don’t choose one before the timer runs out), or run a
variety of debugging tools.
But if all you want to do is choose a default and maybe change the timeout,
there’s a better tool. Open your Start menu, type msconfig in the Search box
and press Enter to open the System Configuration window, and choose the
Boot tab as shown in Figure 1-3.
Here, the easy options are truly self-evident, and the advanced options are at
least accessible. On the right, you can adjust the Timeout from its default of
30 seconds; type 5 here, and you’ll instantly shave off 25 seconds from your
unattended boot time. (Don’t use a value so small that you won’t have time
to change it, lest you set an inoperable installation as the default and have
no way to get around it.)
To choose the default OS, select it in the list and click Set as default. (See
“Make Your Own Windows Startup Logo,” in Chapter 2, for an example of
when you’d use the No GUI boot option.) When you’re done, click OK, and
then restart Windows to see your new settings.
18 |
Chapter 1: Get Started with Windows Vista
Get Started with
Windows Vista
Figure 1-3. The Boot tab of the System Configuration tool provides most of the features
of BCDEdit in a much more pleasant interface
Of operating systems and filesystems
When setting up a dual-boot system for day-to-day use, you’ll need to consider the matter of sharing files between your operating systems.
In order to share files between operating systems, both partitions must use
filesystems supported by at least one OS. For instance, if you have a dualboot setup with both Windows Vista and Windows 98, you’ll be able to see
both drives while you’re in Vista, but you’ll only be able to see the 98 drive
while 98 is running. (Although Vista can read drives formatted with the
FAT32 filesystem, it can’t be installed on one.) See Chapter 5 for details.
Now, if both your partitions use the NTFS filesystem—which is what you’d
likely get if you set up a dual-boot system with Vista and XP—you also may
have ownership problems to contend with. As explained in Chapter 8, every
file and folder on your PC has an “owner,” a user tied to a specific account on
your PC. If, for instance, you create a file in Windows XP and then attempt to
modify it in Vista, you may be denied permission until you “take ownership,”
as explained in “Protect Your Files with Encryption” in Chapter 8.
And in regards to protecting your data, encryption is also effective at preventing an intruder from reading your files by installing a second operating
system on your PC.
Install Windows Vista
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19
Migration to Windows Vista
Migration is typically a term used by system administrators to describe the
lengthy process of upgrading some or all the computers in an organization
to a new software product, but nearly all of the issues apply to anyone
upgrading to Windows Vista from an earlier version.
As you’ve probably discovered on your own, there are a number of hardware and software products that just won’t work with Vista (particularly if
you’re using the 64-bit version). Some of these products are simply awaiting
driver updates from their respective manufacturers, while others have been
abandoned because their manufacturers don’t want to invest the resources
into supporting retired products.
If you haven’t yet upgraded to Windows Vista, the easiest way to predict
what will work and what won’t is to use the Windows Vista Upgrade Advisor (UA), available at http://www.microsoft.com/vista. Although UA is
unlikely to give you any false positives—wherein it tells you something
works with Vista when in fact it won’t—it will construct a laundry list of
potential problems with which you can follow up on your own. (Unfortunately, UA won’t run on 64-bit XP.)
For instance, UA might bring to your attention that your printer, antivirus
software, backup software, CD burning software, and perhaps your Bluetooth adapter are all unsupported on Vista. So, this means you’ll definitely
need new versions of your antivirus and backup software (see Chapter 6)
and your CD burning software (Chapter 4). You’ll also need to check with
the manufacturers of your printer and Bluetooth adapter to see whether
they’ve released native Vista drivers; if not, and you don’t want to wait,
you’ll need to replace those devices.
Sentimental Fool
Disorientation is not an uncommon sensation among those users coming to
Vista from earlier versions of Windows. Here’s where you can find some of
the more elusive entities you may have grown accustomed to in Windows XP:
Add or Remove Programs
This is still in Control Panel, but now it’s called Programs and Features.
Address Bar
The path box in Windows Explorer doubles as an address bar, so if you
want to type a path or copy the current path to the clipboard, click just
to the right of the text, and Explorer will show you a familiar, backslashequipped folder path.
20 |
Chapter 1: Get Started with Windows Vista
File Types window
Sorry, you don’t get one of these in Vista. The best Microsoft could do
is the Default Programs page in Control Panel. If you want to edit your
context menus, you’ll need File Type Doctor, explained in Chapter 3.
Menus in Windows and Internet Explorer
Microsoft took the menus out of both Windows Explorer and Internet
Explorer, and replaced them with drop-down buttons that do pretty
much the same thing. But you can always press the Alt key on the keyboard to temporarily show the old, familiar menu bar in either application. See Chapter 2 if you want to make it permanent in Windows
Explorer.
Network Connections
As explained in Chapter 7, the Network Connections window has been
subjugated in Vista, and is now only accessible as a link on the left side
of the Network and Sharing Center page.
Shut Down button
The red button at the bottom of the Start menu doesn’t shut down Windows any more, but rather puts it to sleep. Click the tiny arrow to the
right of the red button to shut down, restart, or log off. To reconfigure
the red button to shut down instead, see Chapter 5.
System
The familiar System Properties window that has been around since
Windows 2000, and the only way to change your PC’s name on your
network, is now buried under the Advanced system settings link on
the System page in Control Panel. Alternatively, you can type
SystemPropertiesAdvanced.exe in the Start menu’s Search box and press
Enter to open this window.
Migration to Windows Vista
|
21
Get Started with
Windows Vista
Display Properties
Right-click an empty area of the desktop and select Personalize (or open
the Personalize page in Control Panel), and then click the Display Settings link at the bottom of the page.
Chapter
2efBasic
CHAPTER
2 Explorer Coping Skills
Shell Tweaks
What makes an ideal user interface? Of course, the phrase “easy to use”
springs to mind, but that could mean anything. Some of us find large, friendly
controls that need no explanation to be “easy,” while those more experienced
may consider smaller, less obtrusive controls to be easier to use on a daily
basis. And some might argue that the best interface is no interface at all.
At first glance, it seems like Microsoft messed around with the shell—the
desktop interface, including the Start menu and Windows Explorer—more
than anything else when assembling Windows Vista. Sure, Microsoft made
tons of changes under the hood (covered in subsequent chapters), but to those
familiar with, say, Windows XP, the most immediately apparent changes to
the operating system have been made to Windows Explorer and its cohorts.
As a result, the sensation most seasoned Windows users will likely experience when they open Vista’s Explorer for the first time is...disorientation.
Figure 2-1 shows Windows Explorer as it appears right out of the box.
The formal Windows Explorer shortcut is buried deep in the Start menu,
under All Programs ➝ Accessories, but you can open an Explorer window
by double-clicking any folder icon on the desktop or selecting one of the
locations on the righthand column of the Start menu (e.g., Documents, Pictures, Music, Games). Mercifully, Microsoft finally dropped the cutesy
“My” prefix used in earlier versions of Windows, so the My Pictures folder is
now merely Pictures.
While the basic layout is more or less the same as versions of Explorer dating back to 1995, the menu and the title bar are both gone, replaced with
many subtle—almost hidden—controls that surprisingly offer more functionality than any previous version. But that’s only the beginning. The righthand pane of the window more closely resembles a restaurant menu than a
list of files, which does end up making it look more friendly, if a little weird.
22
Shell Tweaks
Figure 2-1. Windows Explorer may have been gussied up for Windows Vista, but
everything you need is still within reach
And to the left, where you’d expect to find the folder tree, resides the Favorite Links pane (akin to the “Places” bar found in some file dialog windows
in Vista).
The folder tree sits at the bottom left of the Explorer window, filled with a
list of unfamiliar folders, such as Contacts, Downloads, and Saved Games.
The little plus [+] and minus [–] boxes, once used to identify expandable
branches in the folder tree, are now microscopic arrows: a right-pointing
arrow signifies a collapsed branch, and a downward arrow signifies an
expanded branch.
Across the bottom of the Explorer window is the preview
pane; it’s resizable, so you can enlarge it to show more information, or shrink it out of the way. If you lose the preview
pane and want to get it back, open the Organize drop-down
and select Layout ➝ Preview Pane.
Fortunately, the basic premise of the Explorer window remains the same:
click a location (i.e., folder) on the left side to see the folder’s contents on
the right. To make Explorer look more like earlier versions, expand the
Shell Tweaks
|
23
Folders pane by dragging the upper edge of the Folders title strip to the top
of the window, covering Favorite Links. Use the Views drop-down to
choose Details, or any other view more useful than Tiles. And if you want
your menu bar back, just press the Alt key, or open the Organize dropdown and select Layout ➝ Menu Bar. See Figure 2-2 for a visual rundown of
everything you can do in Windows Explorer.
History of folders
viewed in this window Click any folder name to jump to that folder
Click once to show control
Click the path arrows to jump to a different folder at that level
menu or double-click to
Click this area to type a path in the address bar
close window
When this turns to a red X,
click it to get rid of the Green Type here to begin
a search or press
Ribbon of Death
Ctrl-F to open
a separate search
window
Use these
checkboxes as
Extra tools
another way to
appropriate to
select files or go to
the current folder
Folder Options to
sometimes appear
hide this column
here
Use this narrow
handle just above
Click here to
the divider to resize
deselect files or
the panes; it’s the
right-click here to
only way to get rid
show options for
of the Favorite Links
the current folder;
pane
this is also where
you’d start drawing
a rubber band to
select files, and
where you can drag
files without risk of
Some of the details here
Use this to resize the Details
inadvertently
are editable, such as MP3
pane; enlarge to show more
dropping them on a
tags and photo EXIF data
details or shrink to hide it
program file or
subfolder
Figure 2-2. All of the subtle—and not so subtle—controls you can use to navigate folders
and manage your files in Windows Explorer
Now, with improved security (covered in Chapter 8), included backup software at long last (Chapter 6), and a handy-dandy new Search tool (later in
this chapter), Vista takes your stuff more seriously than any previous version
of Windows. But the tools Vista gives you (Explorer, et al.) to manage your
pictures, music, spreadsheets, email mailboxes, saved games, etc., fall short
in a lot of ways. Fortunately, with some of the tricks and adjustments in this
chapter, you should be able to transform the shell into a more useful tool
that—at the very least—you actually won’t mind using every day.
Customize Windows Explorer
Many aspects of the way Windows works can be controlled by changing settings scattered throughout the interface. When it comes to the look and feel
of Windows Explorer, and the way it displays and handles your files, the
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Chapter 2: Shell Tweaks
Folder Options window is a good place to start. In Explorer, open the Organize drop-down and select Folder and Search Options (or open Folder
Options in Control Panel).
Tasks
This misnamed option has nothing to do with the Tasks links shown in
some Control Panel pages. Rather, choose Use Windows classic folders
to turn on the menu bar that’s hidden by default, and hide the Preview
and Details panes. Of course, you can temporarily show the menu bar
at any time by pressing the Alt key, and customize all of Explorer’s
panes by selecting Layout from the Organize drop-down.
Browse folders
It doesn’t make any difference which option you select here, unless you
hide the folder tree in Windows Explorer by opening the Organize
drop-down and selecting Layout ➝ Navigation Pane.
Use the Ctrl key when double-clicking folder icons to override your choice here. Or, right-click any folder icon and
select Open (not the bolded Explore) to open the folder in a
new window.
Click items as follows
Set this to Single-click to open an item if you like the idea of navigating
most of Windows as though it were a web site—in other words, without ever having to double-click to open an item.
If you choose the single-click interface, you’ll no longer be
able to click an item twice slowly to rename it; instead, you
must either right-click and select Rename or carefully move
the mouse pointer so that it is hovering over the icon and
press the F2 key.
The point of double-clicking is to prevent you from accidentally opening a program or folder when you’re just trying to select, delete, move,
copy, or rename the file. If you don’t like double-clicking, but aren’t
comfortable with the single-click interface Explorer provides, most
pointing devices (mice, styli, trackballs) with more than two buttons
allow you to program the additional buttons to handle double-click
duty.
Customize Windows Explorer
|
25
Shell Tweaks
As explained in “Quick Access to Control Panel,” Microsoft didn’t finish
revamping Control Panel before shipping Windows Vista. As a result, we
have windows like Folder Options filled with holdover features that aren’t
really applicable anymore, such as these found under the General tab:
The View tab (Figure 2-3) contains settings that affect how much information Explorer shows you, arranged in alphabetical order.
Figure 2-3. The most useful Explorer settings are in the View tab
Unfortunately, the defaults are set in favor of a “simpler” (read dumbeddown) interface, which has the unfortunate and ironic side effect of making
many everyday tasks like organizing files, sharing folders over a network, or
even opening certain folders, more difficult. But probably the most annoying thing is that Vista provides no help whatsoever for these settings, so
they’re explained in detail here.
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Chapter 2: Shell Tweaks
Some of these options may not be available in all editions of
Windows. Also, the use of some of these options can be very
confusing, in that enabling them ends up turning something
off in the interface, or vice-versa. But that’s the nature of the
beast....
Always show menus. This self-explanatory option basically accomplishes
the same thing as selecting Use Classic Folders on the General tab. Of
course, you can display the menu bar at any time by pressing the Alt key.
Display file icon on thumbnails. Turn this off for cleaner-looking thumbnails, or turn it on if you want to more easily distinguish a JPG image
from a Photoshop document. Better yet, turn off the Hide extensions
for known file types option, described later in this section.
Display file size information in folder tips. Like many settings here, this
option doesn’t do exactly what it says. Turn it on, and the tool tip that
appears when you hover your mouse over a folder icon will include
information about the contents of the folder, including names of some
of its subfolders and the size of the files contained therein. Turn off the
option, and all you’ll get is the date and time of the folder. To turn off
folder tips altogether, use the Show pop-up description for folder and
desktop items option, described later in this section.
Display simple folder view in Navigation pane. The simple folder view
refers to the way the folder tree looks, and is turned on by default. Turn
it off to show dotted lines connecting folders, like the folder trees in
some earlier versions of Windows.
Display the full path in the title bar (Classic folders only). This setting does
not affect the Windows Explorer title bar, nor does it have anything to
do with “Classic” folders. Instead, it determines whether the full path or
only the bare folder name appears in the taskbar button and in the task
switcher (Alt-Tab window) for each open folder window.
Despite this setting, Explorer’s title bar never contains any
text at all, and the full path of the current folder is always
shown in the Address box at the top of the window. See
“Navigating files and folders,” later in this chapter, for more
information on the path box.
Customize Windows Explorer
|
27
Shell Tweaks
Always show icons, never thumbnails. This is a setting Windows has been
lacking for years. By default, Explorer automatically shows large thumbnails when a folder (or search results window) contains mostly image
files. Turn on this option to disable thumbnails except when you specifically select Thumbnails from the Views drop-down. See “Green Ribbon of Death,” in Chapter 6, for another reason to use this setting.
Hidden files and folders. Vista does not show hidden files by default in
Explorer. If you set this option to Show hidden files and folders, any
files with the hidden or system file attribute will be shown in Explorer,
but their icons will still appear semi-transparent.
To hide or unhide a file or folder, right-click it, select Properties, and change the Hidden option. For quicker access to a
file’s attributes, try the Change file attributes tool, part of
Creative Element Power Tools (http://www.creativelement.
com/powertools/).
Hide extensions for known file types. Some believe this feature to be one of
Windows’ biggest annoyances. Filename extensions—the last few letters after the dot in a file’s name—are hidden by default in Windows,
and have been in every Windows release since Windows 95. Filename
extensions (e.g., .txt, .jpg, .doc) determine how Windows interacts with
your documents, and hiding this information only makes it harder to
distinguish different files. See “File Type Associations,” in Chapter 3,
for a further explanation of why you’ll probably want to turn off this
option and leave it off.
Hide protected operating system files. When this option is turned on (the
default), files with the system file attribute are hidden in Explorer,
regardless of the Hidden files and folders option, discussed earlier. Socalled system files include most of the boot loader files discussed in
Chapter 1, the $RECYCLE.BIN and System Volume Information folders
found on every hard drive, the hiberfil.sys hibernation file (see
Chapter 5), and a handful of other files. Leave this option turned on to
protect these important files from accidental damage, or turn it off if
you want to see and mess around with them.
Launch folder windows in a separate process. By default, the desktop,
Start menu, and all open Explorer and single-folder windows are handled by the same instance of Explorer. That is, only one copy of the
Explorer.exe application is ever in memory. If you turn on this option,
each Explorer window will use a new instance of the program. Although
this takes slightly more memory and may slightly increase the time it
takes to open new Explorer windows, it means that if one Explorer window crashes—see “Green Ribbon of Death” in Chapter 6—it won’t
bring them all down.
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Chapter 2: Shell Tweaks
Shell Tweaks
To see this option in action, open a few Explorer windows.
Then, right-click an empty area of the taskbar, select Task
Manager, choose the Processes tab, and click the Image
Name column header to sort the list alphabetically. If you’ve
elected to launch folder windows in a separate process,
you’ll see multiple instances of Explorer.exe listed, one for
each open window and one for the desktop. (Note that a
problem that prevented Windows from reinstating a crashed
desktop in previous versions of Windows has been more or
less fixed in Vista.)
Remember each folder’s view settings. This option, when enabled, forces
Explorer to remember the “view” settings for the 20–30 most recently
opened folders, such as the sort order and icon size. This “memory”
overrides the default view settings, but only for the folders you’ve
recently customized.
Unfortunately, this feature does cause problems from time to time. If
you ever encounter a folder missing all its Details columns, for instance
(only the Name column appears), then turn off this option temporarily
to force Windows to forget the settings for the folder. Leave this option
off if you want your folders to always be shown with your chosen
default view settings.
To change the defaults used by all folders, click the Apply to
Folders button at the top of the Folder Options window, as
described in the section “Force Explorer to Remember Its
Own Settings,” next.
Restore previous folder windows at logon. Turn this option on if you want
Windows to remember which folders are open when you shut down or
log out, and then reopen them the next time you log in. Another way to
do this is to not shut down at all, but rather use Vista’s Sleep feature,
explained in “Start Windows Instantly (Almost)” in Chapter 5.
Show drive letters. Turn this off to hide drive letters (e.g., C:, D:, N:) from
Explorer’s folder tree.
Show encrypted or compressed NTFS files in color. Among the additional
services provided by the NTFS filesystem (see Chapter 1) are support for
on-the-fly encryption and compression. Turn on this option to visually
distinguish encrypted and compressed files and folders by displaying
their names in blue. See “Protect Your Files with Encryption,” in
Chapter 8, for a way to customize the colors used for these files.
Customize Windows Explorer
|
29
Show pop-up description for folder and desktop items. Commonly referred
to as “tool tips,” pop-up descriptions show additional details about the
file or folder underneath the mouse pointer. Turn off this option to hide
these tool tips. See also the Display file size information in folder tips
option, earlier in this section, for a related setting.
Show preview handlers in preview pane. When the Preview pane is visible
(open the Organize drop-down and select Layout ➝ Preview Pane),
Windows shows a thumbnail preview on the left unless this option is
turned off.
Use check boxes to select items. If you enable this option, you’ll be able to
select multiple files without having to drag a rubber band or use the keyboard. See “Slicker Ways to Select Files,” later in this chapter, for tips
involving this feature.
Use Sharing Wizard. Disable this option to use the Advanced Sharing window instead of the feeble Sharing Wizard each time you right-click a
folder or drive and select Share. Despite the fact that Microsoft apparently recommends that you use this feature, only the Advanced Sharing
window lets you specify sharing permissions to properly protect your
data. See Chapter 8 for details.
When typing into list view. See “Who Doesn’t Love Keyboard Shortcuts?,”
later in this chapter, for tips involving this setting.
What it comes down to, of course, is that you should use what works best
for you. Don’t blindly accept the defaults just because they came out of the
box that way.
The Search tab in this window is dissected in excruciating detail in “Search
Tricks,” later in this chapter.
Force Explorer to Remember Its Own Settings
One of the most common annoyances with Windows Explorer is, well,
annoying, because it should’ve been so simple for Microsoft to get it right.
How many times have you selected the Details view in Explorer, only to find
that it has reverted to the Large Icons view the next time you open the folder?
For the most part, Windows Explorer’s apparent inability to remember its
own settings is the result of a battle among three opposing forces: your
saved settings, Vista’s propensity to show thumbnail previews for media
files, and some poor coding on Microsoft’s part.
First, open the Folder Options window, turn on the View tab, turn on the
Remember each folder’s view settings option, and click OK. Thereafter,
Windows Explorer will temporarily save the settings for roughly 30 of the
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Chapter 2: Shell Tweaks
most recently viewed folders. Most of the time, these saved settings override
your saved defaults. But how do you change the defaults?
Shell Tweaks
Your choices are stored in the Registry (discussed in
Chapter 3) rather than in the folders themselves, which not
only explains the limit on the number of folders Explorer can
remember, but exposes a rather annoying flaw in the system. Say you choose the view settings for a folder called
Lenny. When you close and reopen Lenny right away, your
settings will remain. However, if you rename the Lenny folder
to, say, Karl, it will instantly revert to Explorer’s defaults and
forget the settings you made only seconds earlier.
If you’re tired of constantly having to go back to Explorer’s View dropdown to change the icon size, or having to click the column headers to sort
file listings, you can set your own defaults. But Explorer’s use of your
defaults won’t make much sense until you figure out Vista’s clandestine
template system.
A template is a collection of folder display settings that includes the view (e.g.,
Large Icons, Details, etc.), the sorting method, and the columns displayed.
Each time you open a folder, Vista automatically picks one of the five preset
templates, and uses those settings to configure the view. And herein lies the
source of the problem: Vista is no good at picking the default template. You
might open a folder full of HTML web page documents, and Explorer will
choose the template for music files. Or, a folder with nothing but photos
will show up in the Details view, rather than thumbnails (Large Icons).
Unfortunately, there’s nothing you can do to change how Vista chooses its
templates, nor can you remove or create your own templates. But you can
customize the view settings for each template so that when Windows
Explorer does get it right, you’ll get the view you need. To choose a template for a folder and then customize it, see “Photos, Pictures, Images” in
Chapter 4.
But you may soon realize that Windows gets it wrong too often, and customizing the templates just isn’t enough. In this case, the solution is to
duplicate your favorite view settings across every template, so no matter
which template Windows picks, you’ll get the view you need:
1. Open Windows Explorer and navigate to any folder with files in it. (This
won’t work with drives, so make sure the folder isn’t a root folder.)
2. Right-click the folder in the tree, select Properties, and choose the Customize tab. Or right-click an empty area of the folder background and
select Customize This Folder. (See the “Missing the Customize Tab?”
sidebar, next, if these options aren’t present.)
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Missing the Customize Tab?
If you don’t see the Customize tab in the Properties window for a folder, all
you need is a quick Registry hack to fix the problem.
Open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3) and expand the branches to HKEY_
CLASSES_ROOT\Directory\shellex\PropertySheetHandlers. Look for a subkey
named {ef43ecfe-2ab9-4632-bf21-58909dd177f0}; if it isn’t there, create a
new key with that name by going to Edit ➝ New ➝ Key.
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\
Navigate
to
CurrentVersion\Policies\Explorer. Double-click the NoCustomizeThisFolder
value in the right pane, type 0 (zero) in the Value data field, and click OK. Do
the same for the NoCustomizeWebView and ClassicShell values. (If any of these
values are absent, skip ’em.)
And finally, navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Microsoft\Windows\
CurrentVersion\policies\Explorer, and if the Explorer key is present, set the
same three values to 0 (zero). Close the Registry Editor when you’re done,
restart Windows, and try again.
3. From the Use this folder type as a template listbox, select the first entry,
All Items, and then click OK.
4. Set your view settings, column headers, and sorting to your taste.
5. Open the Organize drop-down, select Folder and Search Options, and
then choose the View tab.
6. Click the Apply to Folders button, answer Yes, and then click OK.
7. Repeat steps 3–6 for each of the other four templates: Documents, Pictures and Videos, Music Details, and Music Icons.
That’s it; now you have five identical templates, and you no longer need to
care whether or not Vista knows what kind of files are in each folder.
Start Explorer with Any Folder
For the most part, you get the same window when you double-click a folder
icon on your desktop as when you use the Windows Explorer shortcut in
your Start menu. But the latter, without a target, simply dumps you in your
home folder.
To customize the folder that Windows Explorer opens by default, you need
to create a custom Windows Shortcut. To start, right-click an empty space
on your desktop and select New ➝ Shortcut.
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Shell Tweaks
If you’ve removed Windows Shortcut from Explorer’s New
menu, another way to make one is to open your Start menu
and type explorer.exe in the Search box (the .exe extension
is necessary). Using the right mouse button, drag the
explorer.exe entry from the search results onto an empty area
of your desktop, and then select Create Shortcuts Here from
the menu that appears. Right-click on the newly created
explorer.exe - Shortcut, select Properties, and choose the
Shortcut tab.
Next, type the following text into the Target field:
explorer.exe d:\myfolder
where d:\myfolder is the full path of the folder you want Explorer to open.
You might see the text %SystemRoot% in front of explorer.exe, which can be
left alone or removed as desired.
Click OK when you’re done, and then double-click the new shortcut to
try it out. There are actually a bunch of different parameters you can use,
should you feel the need to fine-tune the appearance of the folder tree.
The full syntax is as follows:
explorer.exe [/n][,/e][,/root,object][[,/select],subobject]
The square brackets ([...]) show the optional nature of each of the parameters. Note that the syntax here isn’t like most other programs that take
command-line parameters; for instance, the parameters must be in order
and separated by commas. However, unlike earlier version of Windows,
you don’t have to include the commas for omitted parameters.
/n This opens a new window even if the folder is already open elsewhere.
/e This shows the folder tree pane in the event you’ve turned it off.
/root,object
The /root,object parameter lets you choose what appears as the root of
all folders in the new window, which is useful if you want an abbreviated
tree for security reasons. The default, of course, is the desktop. You can
specify an ordinary folder to be the root of the tree (i.e., /root,c:\stuff),
or a system object by specifying its Class ID (see Chapter 3).
/select
If you include the /select switch along with a folder path (subobject,
discussed next), Explorer opens the folder’s parent and selects it in the
right pane. Only if you omit /select does Explorer actually open the
folder you specify. See the subobject entry, next, for an example of
when this is useful.
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subobject
This is the path to open, shown in the first example. Unless you use the
/select option, Explorer highlights subobject in the tree and shows its
contents in the right pane.
For example, if you want Explorer to open to the Computer folder so that no
drive branches are initially expanded—which is handy if you have several
drives and you want to see them all on equal footing—type this:
explorer.exe /n,/e,/select,c:\
Or, to display an Explorer window rooted at C:\, use this:
explorer.exe /n,/e,/root,c:\
In addition to launching Explorer with these parameters, you can open an
Explorer window in the context of any object on the screen and Windows
will send you to the right place.
For example, you can right-click on any visible folder icon (on your desktop, in an open folder, and even in the tree pane of another Explorer window) and select Explore to open a new Explorer window with the folder in
question highlighted. You can also explore from various system objects by
right-clicking and selecting Explore. This works on the Start button, any
folder in your Start menu, and folders in your file dialogs.
Get to the Desktop
If you have to reach over a pile of papers just to reach your keyboard, then
you’re the type who likes surfaces. The Windows desktop is no exception,
and yours is probably full of files you need. Problem is, they’re always
underneath everything else.
Here are some ways to get to the stuff on your desktop without much hassle:
Minimize everything
Hold the Windows logo key (which we’ll call Winkey, just to be cute)
and press D to quickly show the desktop. Press Winkey-D again to
restore your windows (although not necessarily in the same sequence). Do
this many times to give yourself a headache. (If your keyboard has no Winkey, see “Who Doesn’t Love Keyboard Shortcuts?,” later in this chapter.)
Show Desktop
Don’t want to use the keyboard? Just locate the Quick Launch toolbar,
the little row of tiny buttons on the far left of your taskbar, and click the
Show Desktop button (the blue rectangle in Figure 2-4). Give the button another click to restore the windows.
If the Quick Launch toolbar isn’t there, right-click an empty area on
your taskbar and go to Toolbars ➝ Quick Launch. If you don’t see the
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Show Desktop button, it may be buried inside the tiny white arrows;
otherwise, see the “Make a Show Desktop Button” sidebar for tips.
You can also right-click an empty area of the Taskbar, and select Show
the Desktop to do the same thing as the button. Then, to restore your
windows, right-click the taskbar again and select Show Open Windows.
Shell Tweaks
Figure 2-4. Use this handy button to show the Windows desktop without having to
manually minimize all your windows
Make a Show Desktop Button
By default, the Quick Launch toolbar comes with a Show Desktop button,
which allows you to quickly hide all open windows and access stuff on your
desktop, and then quickly bring them all back when you’re done. But what if
your Quick Launch toolbar doesn’t have one?
Unlike most other toolbar buttons, the Show Desktop button isn’t a Windows Shortcut. Rather, it’s a Shell Command File (.scf), which is really just a
plain-text file containing a special command Windows understands. To create a new .scf file, open your favorite plain-text editor (or Notepad), and type
the following five lines:
[Shell]
Command=2
IconFile=explorer.exe,3
[Taskbar]
Command=ToggleDesktop
Save the file as Show Desktop.scf (or any other name, provided that you
include the .scf filename extension) anywhere you like, including your desktop. To have the icon appear on your Quick Launch toolbar, place the file in
this folder:
C:\Users\{user}\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Quick
Launch
If you like the Show Desktop button, but you don’t like the clutter of the
Quick Launch toolbar, you can simply eliminate the buttons you don’t use by
right-clicking each one and selecting Delete.
Next, right-click an empty area of the Taskbar, turn off the Lock the Taskbar
option, and then shrink down the newly sanitized Quick Launch toolbar so
it’s no larger than the remaining button, like the example in Figure 2-4. When
things are the way you like them, turn Lock the Taskbar back on.
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Open Windows Explorer
Another approach is to simply open a Windows Explorer window and
navigate to the Desktop folder at the top of the tree. That way, you can
leave your open programs intact, making it easier to drag files onto
them from the desktop.
You can also drag files onto a minimized application, provided you have a steady hand and some patience. Just drag
down to the taskbar and hover the file over the minimized
application button you want to restore. Although you can’t
drop files on the buttons themselves, if you wait a second or
two, Windows will restore the application window, at which
point you can drag the file over to the window and drop it.
Icons on the taskbar
Right-click an empty area of the taskbar, select Toolbars, and then
select Desktop. By default, the toolbar will probably be smushed up
against the notification area (tray) and the clock, so right-click the taskbar again and turn off the Lock the Taskbar option so you can move the
Desktop toolbar around. Next, right-click the Desktop title and select
the Show Text option to fit more icons on the bar. It’s not the most
convenient interface, especially if you have a lot on your desktop, but
it’s there if you need it.
Save Your Desktop Layout
Let me guess: you sneezed and Windows rearranged your desktop icons.
This happens for a variety of reasons, most commonly any time Windows
changes the screen resolution (often for games), when you update your display settings, or when you install a new video card driver. But it’ll also happen whenever you use the Magnifier tool that comes with Vista, or when
you change the desktop icon size (discussed next). Regardless of the trigger,
it’s a petty annoyance we all could do without.
There are a variety of tools designed to combat this problem, but most have
died out for one reason or another. The quick and dirty—not to mention
free—solution is to use an add-on released by Microsoft several years ago;
with a little tweak, it works just fine in Vista (32-bit edition only). Here’s
how you install and use it:
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1. Go to http://www.annoyances.org/exec/software/layout and download
the layout.zip file, saving it to your desktop.
2. Open layout.zip, and inside you’ll find two files. The .dll file you can
find elsewhere on the Web, but the other (the .reg file) has been specifically modified for this book to work with Vista.
4. Double-click the other file, install.reg, and answer Yes when asked
whether you want to continue. (See Chapter 3 for more information on
.reg files.)
5. Next, right-click an empty area of your desktop and select Save Desktop Icon Layout.
6. The next time Windows messes up your icons, just right-click an empty
area of your desktop and select Restore Desktop Icon Layout.
Now, if Windows isn’t spontaneously rearranging your desktop icons, but
refuses to let you put them where you want them, there’s a fix for that, too.
This problem is caused by either one of two mechanisms designed to help
keep your desktop icons tidy, and you’ll have to turn at least one of them off
to more freely place your desktop icons. Right-click an empty area of the
desktop, select View, and turn off the Auto Arrange option. The other,
Align to Grid, is discussed next.
Control the space between desktop icons
As any green grocer will tell you, the most efficient way to stack oranges is
the face-centered cubic arrangement, wherein each piece of fruit is placed in
the cavity formed by three adjacent oranges in the lower plane. (For more
information, Google “Kepler Conjecture.”) Sadly, Windows Vista doesn’t
have this option, but if you’re content with Windows’ rectilinear arrangement, you can fine-tune row and column spacing on the desktop.
Also in the aforementioned View menu is the Align to Grid option. Leave it
on, and your icons will always appear lined up in rows and columns; turn it
off to have complete flexibility when dragging your icons around the desktop.
To change the spacing, right-click an empty area of the desktop, select Personalize, and then click Window Color and Appearance. Click the Open classic
appearance properties for more color options link, and then click Advanced.
(Or, if you’re not using Vista’s Aero interface, just click Advanced here.)
From the Item drop-down menu, choose Icon Spacing (Horizontal) and
adjust the spacing by changing the Size value to indicate the number of pixels between the edges of adjacent icons.
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Shell Tweaks
3. Copy the layout.dll file to your C:\Windows\System32 folder.
A good value is approximately 1.3 to 1.5 times the width of an icon. To find
the size of your desktop icons, right-click an empty area of the desktop and
select View. If Medium Icons (the default) is checked, your icons are 44 × 44.
For Classic Icons, they’re the standard 32 × 32; for Large Icons, they’re 86 × 86.
So, if you’re using classic icons, specify 40 in the Advanced Appearance window to pack them pretty closely, or 50 to spread them apart. Next, change
the Icon Spacing (Vertical) value; use the same number for both the horizontal and vertical measurements, and the result will look pretty good.
Quick Access to Control Panel
A lot of the clicking and scrounging in this book takes place in Control
Panel, a window that provides links to many settings that affect the way
Vista looks, sounds, and behaves. It’s a hodge-podge of modern web-like pages
and older, pre-Vista tabbed dialog windows. Some of the dialog windows date
back more than a decade to Windows 95, and are still present merely because
Microsoft presumably doesn’t want to invest the resources to update or replace
all their settings. (For examples, see the beginning of this chapter.)
As a result, it can be hard to find specific settings in Control Panel, and
time-consuming to repeatedly return to dialogs to change certain settings.
Fortunately, there are a few tricks that will help you find and change settings faster.
First, open Control Panel, and click the Classic View link on the left to
show a complete list of all the top-level Control Panel pages and windows.
Next, click the little path arrow to the right of the Control Panel text in the
address bar, as shown in Figure 2-5. As you can see, this list is considerably
shorter than the one in the main window.
Why? Because clicking the path arrows shows only the web-style Control
Panel pages, not the older tabbed dialog windows. It seems as though
Microsoft made an effort to convert Control Panel to the new, easier-to-use
format, but didn’t get around to finishing the job; it’s estimated that only
about 60% of the conversion was completed in time for the release of Windows Vista. Ultimately, this is more or less inconsequential, but once you
understand the makeup of the program, it’ll be a lot easier to navigate.
Search in Control Panel
Control Panel has a brand-new Search feature, and it actually works. Just
click the Control Panel Home link on the left (in Classic View, search only
looks through icon captions), and then type a word into the Search box on
the upper right to find matching settings (see Figure 2-6). Then, just click a
link in the search results to jump to the window with that setting.
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Shell Tweaks
Figure 2-5. Use the path arrows in the address bar to quickly jump to a Control Panel page
Control Panel’s Search feature is slick, but not as comprehensive as Windows Explorer’s Search tool. In other words, your search is conducted
against a pre-programmed index of common settings referring only to
Vista’s own settings. This means that advanced settings like “Icon Spacing”
(see “Save Your Desktop Layout,” earlier in this chapter) and any settings in
third-party Control Panel windows, such as QuickTime window (present if
you’ve installed Apple iTunes) won’t show up in search results.
Shortcuts to Control Panel pages
Many windows are buried several levels deep in Vista’s Control Panel, so it
can be a bit of a pain to make your way around the program. If you find
yourself returning to the same spot often, there are several ways to make
shortcuts and save yourself some time in the future.
The easiest way to make a shortcut is with drag-drop. If you’re using the
Control Panel Home (category) view, drag any link onto the desktop to
make a shortcut, but don’t be surprised if the shortcut doesn’t take you as far
as you wanted to go. For instance, drag the Change desktop background link,
and you’ll get a shortcut to the Appearance and Personalization page only.
You can get a little more control in the Classic View of Control Panel; just
drag an icon to the desktop to make a shortcut.
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Figure 2-6. Search for a setting in Control Panel, but be aware that you may not see all
the settings available
But if you want to get to a specific page or tab more directly, you can use
any of the available command-line alternatives to open Control Panel pages
and windows from shortcuts, the Start menu, or even from the Start ➝ Run
dialog. For example, you can open the Advanced tab in the Advanced System Properties window with this old-school syntax (around since the days of
Windows 3.x in the 1980s, if you can believe it):
control.exe sysdm.cpl ,3
Or, you can use this new standalone executable to accomplish the same
thing:
SystemPropertiesAdvanced.exe
For a complete list of these shortcuts, see Table 2-1.
Table 2-1. Command line access to Control Panel pages and tools
Control Panel
Command line
Add Hardware Wizard
hdwwiz.cpl
Administrative Tools
control admintools
Advanced System Properties ➝
Advanced tab
SystemPropertiesAdvanced.exe
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Table 2-1. Command line access to Control Panel pages and tools (continued)
Control Panel
Command line
Advanced System Properties ➝
Computer Name tab
sysdm.cpl
or
SystemPropertiesComputerName.exe
SystemPropertiesDataExecutionPrevention.exe
Advanced System Properties ➝
Hardware tab
SystemPropertiesHardware.exe
Advanced System Properties ➝
Advanced tab ➝ Performance
Options
SystemPropertiesPerformance.exe
Advanced System Properties ➝
System Protection tab
SystemPropertiesProtection.exe
Advanced System Properties ➝
Remote tab
SystemPropertiesRemote.exe
AutoPlay
control /name Microsoft.AutoPlay
Backup and Restore Center
control /name Microsoft.BackupAndRestoreCenter
Backup and Restore Center ➝
Backup Status and Configuration
sdclt.exe
BitLocker Drive Encryption
control /name Microsoft.BitLockerDriveEncryption
Bluetooth Devices
bthprops.cpl
Date and Time
timedate.cpl
Shell Tweaks
Advanced System Properties ➝
Advanced tab ➝ Performance
Options ➝ Data Execution
Prevention tab
or
control date/time
Display Settings
desk.cpl
Default Programs
control /name Microsoft.DefaultPrograms
Device Manager
devmgmt.msc
Disk Manager
diskmgmt.msc
Ease of Access Center
access.cpl
or
Utilman.exe
Folder Options
control folders
Fonts
control fonts
Game Controllers
joy.cpl
Indexing Options
control /name Microsoft.IndexingOptions
Internet Options
inetcpl.cpl
Keyboard Properties
control keyboard
Mouse Properties
main.cpl
or
control mouse
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Table 2-1. Command line access to Control Panel pages and tools (continued)
Control Panel
Command line
Network and Sharing Center
control /name Microsoft.NetworkandSharingCenter
Network Connections
ncpa.cpl
or
control netconnections
Offline Files
control /name Microsoft.OfflineFiles
Parental Controls
control /name Microsoft.ParentalControls
Pen and Input Devices
TabletPC.cpl
People Near Me
collab.cpl
or
p2phost.exe
Performance Information
and Tools
control /name Microsoft.
PerformanceInformationandTools
Personalization
control desktop
Personalization ➝ Window
Color and Appearance ➝ Classic
Appearance Settings
control color
Phone and Modem Options
telephon.cpl
or
control telephony
Power Options
powercfg.cpl
Printers
control printers
Problem Reports and Solutions
wercon.exe
Programs and Features
appwiz.cpl
Programs and Features ➝ Turn
Windows features on or off
OptionalFeatures.exe
Regional and Language Options
intl.cpl
or
control international
Scanners and Cameras
sticpl.cpl
Secure Online Key Backup
control /name Microsoft.SecureKeyBackup
Security Center
wscui.cpl
Sound
mmsys.cpl
Speech Recognition Options
control /name Microsoft.SpeechRecognitionOptions
Sync Center
mobsync.exe
System
control /name Microsoft.System
Tablet PC Settings
control /name Microsoft.TabletPCSettings
Task Scheduler
control schedtasks
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Table 2-1. Command line access to Control Panel pages and tools (continued)
Control Panel
Command line
Text to Speech
sapi.cpl
or
control speech
User Accounts
nusrmgr.cpl
Shell Tweaks
or
Netplwiz.exe
or
control userpasswords
User Accounts (advanced)
control userpasswords2
Volume Mixer
SndVol.exe
Welcome Center
control.exe /name Microsoft.WelcomeCenter
Windows Defender
MsAsCui.exe
Windows Firewall
Firewall.cpl
or
FirewallControlPanel.exe
Windows Firewall Settings
FirewallSettings.exe
Windows Sidebar Properties
control.exe /name Microsoft.WindowsSidebarProperties
Windows SideShow
control.exe /name Microsoft.WindowsSideshow
Windows Update
control.exe /name Microsoft.WindowsUpdate
Cascading Control Panel menu
Another way to get to a specific Control Panel page quickly is to add a menu
with all its contents to the Start menu:
1. In Control Panel, open Taskbar and Start Menu and then choose the
Start Menu tab.
2. Click the currently enabled Customize button.
3. If you’re using the modern, two-column Start menu (Start menu in the
last window), find the Control Panel branch, and then select the Display as a menu option.
If you’re using the Classic Start menu, turn on the Expand control panel
option in the Advanced Start menu options list.
4. Either way, click OK when you’re done.
Now, instead of a single menu item in the Start menu, all the Control Panel
icons are listed individually. To open the standalone Control Panel folder
window from this interface, simply right-click Control Panel and select
Open.
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Unwanted icons and the Green Ribbon of Death
Does it take an inordinately long time to show Control Panel in Classic
View? If you upgraded your PC from a previous version of Windows, there’s
a bug in Vista that can cause the Green Ribbon of Death (explained in
Chapter 6). This bug, incidentally, is related to a specific “legacy” feature
that lets you hide certain Control Panel icons; see the “Hide Unwanted Control Panel Icons” sidebar, next, for details.
Hide Unwanted Control Panel Icons
You can hide certain types of icons in Control Panel’s Classic View with a
quick Registry hack. Just open the Registry Editor (explained in Chapter 3),
and expand the branches to HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel\don't load.
Then, create a new string value for each icon you want to hide. For the name,
type the filename of the .cpl file responsible for the icon (see “Shortcuts to
Control Panel pages,” earlier in this chapter). Then, double-click the new
value, type No for its data, and click OK.
Refresh the Control Panel window by pressing the F5 key to see the change.
Now, there’s a bug in Windows Vista that can crash Control Panel—or at
least cause it to take a long time to load all its icons—if there’s an errant entry
in the don't load Registry key. If you’re seeing the Green Ribbon of Death (see
Chapter 6) whenever you open Control Panel, delete all the values in the
don't load key and then try again.
Who Doesn’t Love Keyboard Shortcuts?
Despite the fact that Microsoft has excised those little underlined letters—
the ones that show you which letter you have to press while holding the Alt
key to jump to that control—the keyboard is alive and well in Vista. In fact,
there are tons of useful keyboard shortcuts that can be real time-savers in
Windows, some even used in conjunction with the mouse. Following are
some of the best ones.
Navigating files and folders
Properties
Hold the Alt key while double-clicking on a file or folder to view the
Properties sheet for that object. Or, press Alt-Enter to open the Properties window for the selected item without using the mouse at all.
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History
Press Backspace in an open folder window to go back one step in the
window’s history to the last folder you looked at, which is not necessarily the parent folder.
Refresh/Reload
Press F5 in almost any window (including web browsers and even
Device Manager) to refresh the current view.
Folder tree
With the focus on Explorer’s folder tree, press Enter to view the contents of the highlighted folder in the right pane. Also, use the left and
right arrow keys (or + and –) to collapse and expand folders, respectively, or press the asterisk key (*) to expand all the folders and their
subfolders in the current branch.
Jump to an item
With the focus on the right pane, press a letter key to quickly jump to the
first file or folder starting with that letter. Continue typing to jump further.
For example, pressing the T key in your \Windows folder will jump to the
Tasks folder. Press T again to jump to the next object that starts with T.
Or, press T and then quickly press A to skip all the Ts and jump to
taskman.exe. If there’s enough of a delay between the T and the A keys,
Explorer will forget about the T, and you’ll jump to the first entry that
starts with A.
If you’d rather, you can have Windows Explorer begin a formal search as soon as you start typing. Open the Organize
drop-down, select Folder and Search Options, and then
choose the View tab. Scroll to the bottom of the Advanced
settings list, and under the When typing into list view
branch, click Automatically type into the Search Box.
New Explorer window
Press Ctrl-N to open another Explorer window at the same folder. Or, if
you prefer, you can use Ctrl-N to create a new folder on the spot—
something you can’t otherwise do easily with the keyboard—by installing Creative Element Power Tools (http://www.creativelement.com/
powertools/) and turning on the Quickly create new folders tool.
You can also press Winkey+E to open a new Windows Explorer window, even when you’re not currently in Explorer.
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Shell Tweaks
You can also press the left or right arrow keys while holding Alt to go
back and forth through the folder history; these work just like the two
round arrow buttons in the upper left of any Explorer window.
Search
In Windows Explorer or on the desktop, press Ctrl-F or F3 to open a separate search window so you can search without losing the current view.
Or, press Winkey+F to open a search window no matter where you are.
See “Search Tricks,” later in this chapter, for other ways to improve search.
Show hidden context menu items
Hold the Shift key while right-clicking a file to show three new items in
the file’s context menu: Pin to Start Menu (normally shown only for
programs), Add to Quick Launch, and Copy as Path (used to copy the
full path of the item to the clipboard).
Address bar
Press F4 to jump to the address bar so you can type or flip through
recently visited folders. While you’re there, press Esc twice to revert to
the new-style path box so you can navigate parent folders without typing.
Cycle through all the controls
Press the Tab or F6 keys to jump among the file pane, the file pane column headers, the address bar, the Search box, the Favorites pane (if it’s
visible), the folder tree divider, and then finally the folder tree itself.
Selecting and managing files
Select all
Press Ctrl-A to quickly select all of the contents of a folder, both files
and folders.
Select range
Select one icon, then hold the Shift key while clicking on another icon
in the same folder to select it and all the items in between.
Select multiple items
Hold the Ctrl key to select or deselect multiple files or folders, one by
one. Note that you can’t select more than one folder in the folder tree
pane of Explorer, but you can in the right pane.
You can select multiple files without using the keyboard by
dragging a rubber band around them. Start by holding down
the left mouse button in a blank portion of a folder window,
then drag the mouse to the opposite corner to select everything that appears in the rectangle you just drew.
You can also use the Ctrl key to modify your selection. For example, if
you’ve used the Shift key or a rubber band to select the first five objects
in a folder, you can hold Ctrl while dragging a second rubber band to
highlight additional files without losing your original selection.
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Delete files
Select a file or folder and press Del to delete it. Or, press Shift-Del to
delete it permanently without sending it to the Recycle Bin.
Rename
Press F2 to rename the currently selected item.
Start menu
Press the Windows logo key (Winkey) to open the Start menu, and then
navigate with your arrow keys. You can also open the Start menu by
pressing Ctrl-Esc. See the upcoming “Hack the Windows Logo Key”
sidebar if you don’t have a Windows logo key.
Switch to a different window
Press Winkey+Tab to show the fancy Flip 3D Rolodex-style task
switcher, or Alt-Tab to show the classic means of switching from one
open window to another. See “Get Glass,” in Chapter 5, for a good
alternative. Hold Shift (Shift-Alt-Tab or Shift-Winkey+Tab) to go
backward.
If you’re using an application with more than one document, press CtrlTab to switch among the open documents. Or, press Ctrl-Tab to cycle
through tabs in a tabbed window.
Drop the current window to the bottom of the pile
Press Alt-Esc to move the active window to the bottom of the stack and
activate the one underneath it. Hold Shift to go backward.
Run
Press Winkey+R to open the Start menu Run box.
Minimize all windows
Press Winkey+D to show or hide the desktop, Winkey+M to minimize
all open windows, or Shift-Winkey+M to restore minimized windows.
See “Get to the Desktop,” earlier in this chapter, for related tips.
Windows Explorer
Press Winkey+E to open a new Windows Explorer window.
Task Manager
Press Ctrl-Shift-Esc to open Task Manager (see Chapter 6).
Task bar
Press Winkey+T to send the keyboard focus to the taskbar, or press
Winkey+B to send the focus to the notification area (tray).
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Starting and switching programs
Hack the Windows Logo Key
What if your keyboard has no Winkey? Strictly speaking, you don’t really
need it, but there are a bunch of nifty keyboard shortcuts you can only do
with the Winkey, such as Winkey+D to show the desktop, Winkey+R to run
a program, and Winkey+Tab to use the Flip 3D task switcher.
To give your keyboard a Winkey, or any other key it doesn’t have, you need
a keyboard remapping tool. Most tools use an obscure feature already built in
to Windows, such as Sharpkeys (free, http://www.randyrants.com/sharpkeys/),
KeyTweak (free, http://webpages.charter.net/krumsick/), and Microsoft’s
own Microsoft Keyboard Layout Creator (http://www.annoyances.org/exec/
software/mklc).
First, pick a key on your keyboard you don’t use—the righthand Alt key is
usually a good candidate for the Windows Logo Key—and remap it to the
key you want Windows to think you pressed. In SharpKeys, for instance,
click Add, select Special: Right Alt from the Map this key list, select Special:
Left Windows from the To this key list, and click OK. Back in the main window, click Write to Registry, and then log out and back in again for the
change to take effect.
Of course, the Winkey isn’t for everyone. On most keyboards, it’s right next
to the Space bar, which means it’s easy to hit by accident. And since it’s one
of the few keys that takes the focus away from the active window, it can be
decidedly inconvenient if you press it while you’re typing.
To disable Winkey, all you do is use one of the aforementioned keyboard
remapping tools to remap Winkey to something innocuous, like Ctrl or
Pause/Break. Or, if you have the MyExpose task switcher installed (see “Get
Glass” in Chapter 5), you can remap the Winkey to activate MyExpose
instead.
While you’re at it, you can likewise disable some other nuisance keys like
Insert (Ins), so you’ll never again inadvertently delete text as you type.
If you want to keep your Windows logo key, but you don’t like the Winkey hotkey combinations (e.g., Winkey+R), you can turn those off with a quick Registry hack. Open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3) and expand the branches to
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\
Explorer. Create a new DWord value by selecting Edit ➝ New ➝ DWord
Value (32-bit), and then name the new value NoWinKeys. Double-click the new
value, type 1 for its data, and click OK. You’ll need to log out and then back in
again for the change to take effect.
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Quick Launch toolbar
Press the Windows logo key and a number key to open the Quick
Launch icon at that position. For instance, press Winkey+1 to open the
first icon, Winkey+2 to open the second, and so on.
View System Information
Press Winkey+Pause/Break to open the System page in Control Panel.
Get Windows Help
Press Winkey+F1 to open Windows Help and Support.
Everything else
Clipboard
Press Ctrl-C to copy the selected item to the clipboard, Ctrl-X to cut
(copy and then delete), and Ctrl-V to paste the item anywhere else.
Undo
Press Ctrl-Z to undo the last text edit, file operation, deletion, etc.
Menus
Press Alt or F10 to jump to the menu bar (or show the menu if it’s
hidden).
Drop-down listboxes
Use the up and down arrow keys to flip through items in a drop-down
box, or press Alt-down arrow to open the listbox.
Accessibility tools
Press Winkey+U to open the Ease of Access Center page in Control
Panel. Press Shift five times to toggle StickyKeys on and off. Hold Shift
for eight seconds to toggle FilterKeys on and off. Hold Num Lock for
five seconds to toggle ToggleKeys on and off. Press Alt-LeftShift-Num
Lock to toggle MouseKeys on and off. Press Alt+LeftShift+Print Screen
to toggle high contrast mode on and off.
Log off
Press Winkey+L to log off Windows.
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Close the window
Press Alt-F4 to close the current application, or Ctrl-F4 to close the current document (if it’s the type of program that can hold multiple documents). Press Alt-F4 while the keyboard focus is on the desktop or
taskbar to shut down windows.
Massage the Start Menu
The Start menu has gotten a face-lift for Vista, and not a moment too soon.
It’s easier to configure and its arrangement makes quite a bit more sense
than its predecessor, and if you find it too cluttered, you can get rid of just
about anything you don’t use.
Unfortunately, each element—or rather, elements in each region—are configured in slightly different ways, as shown in Figure 2-7.
Internet and E-mail
(set in Taskbar and
Start Menu Properties)
Pinned items
(set in Windows Explorer)
Recently opened programs
(set in Taskbar and
Start Menu Properties)
All Programs
(set in Windows Explorer)
Search field
(set in Folder Options,
Indexing Options,
and Taskbar and
Start Menu Properties)
Picture
(set in User Accounts)
Righthand column
(set in Taskbar and
Start Menu Properties)
Shut Down, Lock buttons
(set in Power Options)
Figure 2-7. Each region of the Start menu gets configured in a different place
The contents of Vista’s standard Start menu are divided into seven sections:
Pinned items
At the top of the lefthand column, above the horizontal line, is a list of
programs you can customize. Right-click any application executable (.exe
file) and select Pin to Start Menu to add it to the list (the command isn’t
available if you’re using the “classic” Start menu discussed later). You can
also drag shortcuts to add them to the list, right-click unwanted items
and select Remove from this list to delete them, or drag the entries to
rearrange them.
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The pinned items list is peculiar because, unlike the All Programs folders and the Quick Launch toolbar, the pinned items aren’t shortcuts on
your hard disk. Rather, the pinned items are stored in the Registry (see
Chapter 3) in a format that makes them impractical to edit by hand.
This means that application installers can’t litter your pinned items list
with unwanted icons, but it also introduces some annoying limitations
for day-to-day use.
For example, if you rename a pinned item, Windows renames the target
file! This means that if you pin Photoshop.exe or diskmgmt.msc—the
executables for Adobe Photoshop and the Disk Management console
file discussed in Chapter 5, respectively—and then remove the filename extensions to pretty up the pinned entries, you’ll render the programs inaccessible. To work around this, create shortcuts to these items
somewhere out of the way—perhaps a subfolder of All Programs, discussed shortly—and then pin the shortcuts instead.
Recently used applications
Below the pinned items on the left side is a dynamic list of recently
used programs. The problem with this list is that it is always changing,
making it a poor choice to store shortcuts to programs you need to use
frequently.
To remove the list entirely, right-click an empty area of the Start menu,
select Properties, and turn off the Store and display a list of recently
opened programs option. Or, to change the size of the list, click the
Customize button here, and in the Start menu size box toward the bottom, adjust the Number of recent programs to display value. (If the section is grayed out, it’s because the aforementioned Store and display
option is turned off.)
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At the top of the list, you’ll see two special entries—Internet
and E-Mail—that aren’t actually “pinned,” but rather put in
place by special settings in the Taskbar and Start Menu window in Control Panel. To get rid of them, right-click each
one and select Remove from this list. You can replace them
with ordinary pinned items, or use the settings designed for
this purpose by right-clicking an empty area of the Start
menu, selecting Properties, and then clicking Customize.
All Programs
At the very bottom of the left column is a single entry, All Programs,
which contains the icons for the applications you’ve installed on your
PC, and is the most customizable area of the Start menu.
The items in the All Programs menu are shortcuts on your hard disk,
compiled from two sources. First, there are your personal shortcuts here:
C:\Users\{username}\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Windows\Start
Menu\Programs
and then there’s the common (or “All users”) folder here:
C:\ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows\Start Menu\Programs
Although you can drag and drop shortcuts in this list, it’s usually a
whole lot easier to work with the folders directly in Windows Explorer,
especially if you have a lot of things to change.
Resist the temptation to consolidate your personal Start
menu shortcuts and the All Users shortcuts. Among other
things, this can mess with applications that place shortcuts
in these locations automatically, and can cause problems like
the same program being run more than once each time you
start windows. Instead, just delete unwanted items from
both places, and add your own items only to your personal
Programs folder.
To remove the All Programs item from the Start menu, open the Group
Policy Object Editor (gpedit.msc, which is not present on the Vista
Home editions), and expand the branches to User Configuration\
Administrative Templates\Start Menu and Taskbar. Double-click Remove
All Programs list from the Start menu, select Enabled, and click OK.
You’ll have to log out and then log back in for this change to take effect.
You can customize some of the aspects of this menu by right-clicking an
empty area of the Start menu, selecting Properties, and then clicking
Customize. If you turn on the Enable context menus and dragging and
dropping option, you’ll be able to drag shortcuts and even right-click
them to customize them; turn off this option if you want them to stay
put. Next, turn on the Sort All Programs menu by name option to keep
the list sorted; or, if you turn it off, you can sort a single folder on the fly
by right-clicking any entry and selecting Sort by Name.
Search box
This is more than just a Search box; it’s also a quick and dirty replacement for the Run window. You can type any program here—either the
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application name or the executable filename—and press Enter to run
the program. Or, type the first few letters of the program to launch, and
then click the desired entry in the search results above.
If you’ve started a search you want to cancel, click the blue × button to
the right of the search text field to get your Start menu back.
Also in the Customize Start Menu window, you’ll find three other
search-related options. The first, Search, allows you to show or hide the
Search entry in the righthand column of the Start menu (discussed
shortly). The second, Search communications, includes email mailboxes and contacts from the Windows Mail program, and the third,
Search favorites and history, adds Internet Explorer bookmarks and
recently visited web sites to your searches. Turn off the latter two
options to speed up searches made from your Start menu.
The Picture Box
To change the picture, open the User Accounts page in Control Panel
(or just click the picture), and then click Change your picture. There’s
no way to remove the picture box—it’s also used to provide visual feedback as you hover the mouse over items in the righthand column, as discussed next—but you can click Browse for more pictures and then
choose a .bmp, .jpg, or .gif file of a solid color box if you want to deemphasize it.
You can, however, remove your name from beneath the picture by rightclicking an empty area of the Start menu, selecting Properties, and then
clicking Customize. Under the Personal folder branch, select Don’t display this item, and then click OK.
Righthand column
You have control over everything in the right column, but not directly.
To get rid of any unwanted entries, right-click an empty area of the Start
menu, select Properties, and then click Customize. In the list you’ll find
each of these items—there are 15 in all—interspersed with settings that
affect other aspects of the Start menu. In most cases, just clear the
checkbox for the item, or if it’s shown as a folder here, just select Don’t
display this item to get rid of it.
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By default, search results here are limited to your personal documents,
items in your All Programs menu, and special locations like Control Panel.
To broaden your searches to include the entire index, right-click an empty
area of the Start menu, select Properties, and then click Customize. Scroll
down the list to the Search files branch, and select Search entire index. See
“Search Tricks,” later in this chapter, for details on the index.
The only right-column entry you won’t see in the Customize
Start Menu window is Recent Items. To get rid of this entry,
close the Customize Start Menu window, and turn off the
Store and display a list of recently opened files option,
something you may want to do anyway for privacy and security purposes.
Among these items is also the Run command, which you may choose to
hide even if you frequently use this feature. For one, the Search box,
discussed earlier in this section, is a more convenient “run” tool; just
type the filename or command you wish to run, and press Enter. Or, if
you want the drop-down list of recently run items, you can hold the
Windows logo key and R (Winkey+R) to open the Run window, even if
Run isn’t present in your Start menu.
Shut Down button
Last but not least is the red Shut Down button, which appears at the
bottom of the right column along with a Lock this computer button and
the tiny arrow that lets you switch users, restart, log off, put your PC to
sleep (see Chapter 5), and shut down.
By default, Windows puts your PC to sleep when you click
the red button. If you’d rather use this button to shut
down your PC, see “Start Windows Instantly (Almost)” in
Chapter 5.
To remove the Shut Down button et al., open the Group Policy editor
(gpedit.msc, which is not present on the Vista Home editions), and
expand the branches to User Configuration\Administrative Templates\
Start Menu and Taskbar. Double-click Remove and prevent access to the
Shut Down, Restart, Sleep, and Hibernate commands, select Enabled,
and click OK. You’ll have to log out and then log back in for this change
to take effect. Of course, once that’s done, the only way to shut down or
restart (necessary to undo the change) is to use the shutdown commandline tool described in “Control Your PC Remotely,” in Chapter 7, or
press the physical power switch on your PC.
When all is said and done, you’ll have a leaner, cleaner Start menu that contains only the items you actually want and use. If you like, you can basically
wipe the Start menu completely clean so that it looks like the one in
Figure 2-8, adorned only with the Search box and your custom picture.
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Shell Tweaks
Figure 2-8. Minimalists may appreciate a clean, uncluttered Start menu like this one
Customize the Classic Start menu
The Classic Start menu style is not quite as flexible as the standard Vista
Start menu in terms of the items that can be removed, but it’s more flexible
in the custom items you can add to the top level. The Classic Start menu is
also simpler and smaller, and will feel more familiar to those coming from
Windows 2000 or Windows 98. Figure 2-9 shows a somewhat slimmeddown Classic Start menu.
The Classic Start menu is divided into only three sections:
Custom programs
The space above the horizontal bar is a fully customizable free-for-all,
and somewhat of a saving grace for the Classic Start menu. In
Figure 2-9, there’s a single shortcut to Explorer, but you can place any
type of shortcut here, and even include folders for further organization.
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Figure 2-9. The Classic Start menu is simpler and cleaner than Vista’s standard Start
menu, but relies more heavily on overly jumpy cascading menus
These entries are merely the shortcuts stored in your personal Start
Menu folder:
C:\Users\{username}\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Windows\Start
Menu
and the common (or “All users”) folder here:
C:\ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows\Start Menu
To get to these folders quickly, right-click the Start button and select
Explore. Inside each of these locations is a Programs folder, containing
the items shown in the Programs menu, discussed next.
Programs
At the top of the lower section is a single entry, Programs, which is the
“classic” counterpart to the All Programs menu covered in the previous
section.
When there are too many items in the Programs menu to fit on the
screen, one of two things can happen. Either the menu “scrolls,” which
means you have to use the tiny arrows at the top and bottom of the menu
to navigate, or the items are clumsily spread across multiple columns. To
change this, right-click the Start button, select Properties, click Customize, and turn on or off the Scroll programs option. While you’re here, you
can also turn off the Use Personalized Menus option, which instructs
Windows to stop hiding program icons you haven’t used recently.
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Windows items
The remaining entries in the lower part of the Start menu are all seemingly “hardcoded,” in that you can’t easily customize or hide most of
them.
If you hide the Documents menu, you may also want to
double-click the Do not keep history of recently opened
documents entry and select Enabled; this not only stops
Windows from tracking what you do on your PC, but it
clears the history lists shown in some applications’ File ➝
Open and File ➝ Save windows.
Close the Group Policy Object Editor when you’re done, and log out
and then back in again for the changes to take effect.
Clean Up the Tray
The notification area as Microsoft calls it—or more commonly, the tray—is
the box full of tiny icons on the far right side of your taskbar, next to the clock.
It made its first appearance in Windows 95, but it didn’t take long for most
trays to get cluttered with junk from every program installed on your PC.
And since Microsoft wasn’t too careful about establishing standards for the
icons put there, applications weren’t too careful about giving their customers
control over those icons. As a result, many applications won’t let you remove
their icons, and of those that do, the process is different for each one.
Microsoft snapped into action to solve the problem, and five years later
came up with the Hide inactive icons feature. To clean up your tray, rightclick an empty area of the taskbar, select Properties, and choose the Notification Area tab. Turn on the Hide inactive icons option, and then click
Customize to open the Customize Notification Icons window shown in
Figure 2-10.
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To hide the Favorites or Log Off entries, right-click the Start button,
select Properties, click Customize, and turn off the Display favorites or
Display log off options, respectively. To remove any other entries here,
like Search or Run, open the Group Policy Object Editor (gpedit.msc,
which is not present on the Vista Home editions), and expand the
branches to User Configuration\Administrative Templates\Start Menu
and Taskbar. For instance, to remove the Documents menu, double-click
the Remove Documents icon from Start Menu entry, select Enabled,
and click OK.
Figure 2-10. If you don’t want to hide the tray completely, use this window to bury
unwanted clutter under a collapsible panel
The active icons in your tray appear under Current Items, while those that
have come and gone show up further down, under Past Items. To hide an
icon, highlight it in the list, and then select Hide in the Behavior column.
Click OK when you’re done; the change takes effect right away.
If you’ve hidden at least one icon, a little white arrow appears to the left of
the tray (meaning that you won’t save any space if you hide only one icon).
Just click the arrow to temporarily show hidden tray icons; move the mouse
away, and the arrow hides them again.
Tired of dealing with tray icons on a one-by-one basis? If you’re using the
Vista Business or Ultimate edition, you can turn off the tray completely.
Open the Group Policy Object Editor (gpedit.msc, which is not present on
the Vista Home editions), and expand the branches to User Configuration\
Administrative Templates\Start Menu and Taskbar. Double-click Hide the
notification area, select Enabled, and click OK. You’ll have to log out and
then log back in for this change to take effect.
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Make Your Own Windows Startup Logo
The pompous Microsoft Windows Vista logo that appears for the 30 seconds or so it takes to boot your computer can be replaced with any image
you choose; it just takes a little hacking.
Next, download and install the free Vista Boot Logo Generator from http://
www.computa.co.uk/staff/dan/. (Note that at the time of this writing, this
program only works with the 32-bit edition of Vista.) Start the program,
click Browse for image on the left side, and locate the 800 × 600 .bmp file
you just made. Then, click Browse for image on the right side, and locate
the 1024 × 768 version. When that’s done, select File ➝ Save Boot Screen
File As, name the file winload.exe.mui (the default) and save it to your desktop, and then close the Vista Boot Logo Generator.
Open Windows Explorer and navigate to the C:\Windows\System32\en-US\
folder (if you’re not using the United States–English edition of Windows
Vista, choose the appropriate folder in place of en-US). Take ownership of
the winload.exe.mui file in this folder, as described in “Set Permissions for a
File or Folder” in Chapter 8, and then rename it to winload.exe.mui.backup.
Now that the original file is out of the way, drag your custom winload.exe.mui
file into the C:\Windows\System32\en-US\ folder.
There’s one more step: open the Start menu, type msconfig in the Search
box, and press Enter to open the System Configuration window. Choose the
Boot tab, and from the Boot options section, turn on the No GUI boot
option. Click OK and then close the System Configuration window when
you’re done.
To try out your new boot screen, restart Windows!
See “Start Windows Instantly (Almost),” in Chapter 5, for other settings that
determine how long the startup logo appears on screen, and “Customize the
Welcome Screen Background,” in Chapter 8, for a related hack.
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First, find an image you’d like to use. It can be a photo you took with a digital camera or a picture you got off the Web. When you’ve got one, use your
favorite image-editing application—or, barring that, Vista’s Paint program
(mspaint.exe)—to convert the file to the .bmp format. You’ll actually need
two .bmp files, one resized to 800 × 600 and the other resized to 1024 × 768,
but both must have a 24-bit color depth. (If your photo doesn’t conform to
the 4:3 aspect ratio, you’ll need to crop it or add padding so that it does.)
Working with Files and Folders
What is Windows Explorer if not a file manager at heart? Sure, the Start
menu is a home-base of sorts, but the desktop and your folders are basically
there to store your stuff. When it comes to copying, moving, renaming,
deleting, and opening files, Explorer is where it’s at. The rest of this chapter
includes topics on tweaking Vista’s file management features so you can
work with your stuff without getting so annoyed.
Why It Takes So Long to Copy Files
Most people first realize that something is wrong with Vista when they try to
copy or move files, and they see the little green progress window shown in
Figure 2-11. It’d be understandable to see this window on screen for a
minute or two if you’re copying a lot of data, but should it really take three
full minutes to move one small file, or eight minutes to delete another?
Figure 2-11. Seen this window a lot lately? This tiny “Green Ribbon of Death” is one of
the signs that not all is right in the world of Vista
This is one of two “Green Ribbons of Death” in Windows Vista, the other
being the larger progress bar—the one dissected in Chapter 6—that
appears at the top of the Windows Explorer window in the address bar/path
box. So, what’s going on?
It turns out that several things can cause Windows Explorer to take a long time
copying, moving, or deleting files, and some of them are actually legitimate.
First, Windows Explorer takes time to examine the files and folders you’re
copying, moving, etc., and checks—ahead of time—to see whether there
are any conflicts, such as existing files in the destination folder or security
issues that need your attention. That’s why you’ll see Vista’s nifty confirmation window (Figure 2-12) just once for 34 conflicts, rather than the 34 individual confirmations you’d have to endure in earlier versions of Windows.
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Shell Tweaks
Figure 2-12. This handy new confirmation window lets you deal with all the conflicts at
once, rather than having to click through a bunch of windows, but it ends up causing
other problems
The confirmation window in Figure 2-12 is actually quite
nice because of all the choices you get. If you’re copying
media files (e.g., photos, videos, PDF documents), you’ll see
thumbnail previews to aid your decision; you can even rightclick the thumbnails directly in this window if you want to
work with the files without interrupting the file operation.
What’s more, you can choose to copy or move the file without replacing the original, renaming it instead to avoid the
conflict.
The downside is that Explorer must delay your file operation while it prepares the confirmation window; depending on what it encounters along the
way, this can take forever.
One of the main reasons for the delay is a side effect of User Account
Control, the same security “feature” that turns the screen black for an
moment before asking your permission to make a change to your system.
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Naturally, Vista has to examine each file you’re copying to make sure you
have permission to copy it, and then examine the destination to make
sure you have permission to put the file there. See “Control User Account
Control,” in Chapter 8, for some ways to ease up the restrictions.
Likewise, if you’re copying files over a network, Windows has to do some
security reconnaissance, and depending on the speed of your network connection, this can take even longer.
But security checks alone aren’t responsible for Vista’s abysmal performance in this area; there’s also the matter of thumbnails. As described in
“Green Ribbon of Death” in Chapter 6, there are a few common problems
that can cause Windows Explorer to hang or even crash, and if one of these
things hobbles the instance of Explorer you’re using, the progress dialog
(shown previously in Figure 2-11) can just sit there for what seems like an
eternity. Once you’ve fixed the problems outlined in Chapter 6, the copying, moving, or deleting should go much faster.
Slicker Ways to Select Files
Why drag 17 files individually when you can select and drag them all at
once? For one, it’s tremendously aggravating to select the first 16 files, and
then lose the selection with an errant click in the wrong place.
Selecting files is an art form, or at least it would be in a much more boring
world than ours. Here are some slick ways to select multiple files in Windows
Explorer:
Rubber bands
Need to select a cluster of files? Click in an empty area near the first file
and then draw a box around the others to select them all in a single
swoop, as shown in Figure 2-13.
Keyboard and mouse
As described in “Who Doesn’t Love Keyboard Shortcuts?,” earlier in
this chapter, you can hold the Ctrl key to select files one-by-one, or hold
the Shift key to select a range of files. Just be careful not to drag the files
while holding Ctrl, lest you inadvertently create copies of them all.
Keyboard alone
While holding the Ctrl key, move through a list of files with the up and
down arrow keys. When the dotted rectangle surrounds a file you want,
press the Space bar to select it.
Or, to select a range of files, use the arrow keys to find the first file; then,
hold Shift while you expand the selection with the arrow keys. Thereafter,
you can even use the Ctrl key to select and deselect individual items.
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Shell Tweaks
Figure 2-13. It’s dead simple, but rubber bands—or “selection rectangles,” as they like to
be called—allow you to select a cluster of files in one quick step
Filespec
In the Search box in the top-right of the Explorer window, type a
filespec—a pattern you choose—to filter the list and show only the
matching files. Filespecs typically contain ordinary characters (letters
and numbers) along with wildcards, like the question mark (?) and the
asterisk (*), which represent any single character or any number of characters, respectively.
For instance, type *.txt to show only files with the .txt filename extension, or v??.* to show files of any type that start with v and have only
three letters in the filename.
In a moment or two, Windows Explorer will show only the files that
match your filespec, at which point you can press Ctrl-A to select them
all. Most of the time, this is a whole lot faster—not to mention more
accurate—than trying to select the files by hand. See “Search Tricks,”
later in this chapter, for more information.
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Checkboxes
You like clicking checkboxes? In Windows Explorer, click the Organize
drop-down, select Folder and Search Options, and then turn on the Use
check boxes to select items option. Click OK, and your folder now
looks like Figure 2-14; then, click the checkbox next to any file to select
it without holding down any keys or worrying about clicking in the
wrong place.
Figure 2-14. Windows Explorer lets you use checkboxes to select items
Take Charge of Drag-Drop
The “desktop metaphor” used as the basis for the interface in Windows Vista
revolves around a handful of concepts, one of the most basic being that you
can drag an item with the mouse to move it from one place to another.
But when dragging produces inconsistent results, the whole system starts to
break down; unfortunately, that’s the case in Vista.
Depending on where the item currently lives and where you’re trying to put it,
a variety of things can happen. The good news is that with an understanding of
what’s happening, combined with the visual cues you get from Windows
Explorer, you can predict what will happen every single time you drag and
drop. What’s more, you can use some basic tricks to change what happens.
Here are the basic drag-drop rules by which Vista lives:
• If you drag an object from one place to another on the same physical
drive (C:\docs to C:\files), Windows moves the object.
• If you drag an object from one physical drive to another physical drive
(C:\docs to D:\files), Windows copies the object, resulting in two identical files on your PC.
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• If you drag an object from one place to another in the same folder, Windows does nothing.
• If you drag an object into the Recycle Bin, Windows moves the file into
the Recycle Bin folder, where it is eventually deleted.
• If you drag certain system objects, such as Control Panel icons, anywhere else, Windows makes shortcuts to those items.
• If you drag any file onto an application executable (.exe) file, Windows
opens the target application and then sends a signal to the application
to open the dropped document. See “File Type Associations,” in
Chapter 3, for details.
That’s about it. It used to be that Windows did different things with different types of files, such as creating a shortcut any time you dragged an .exe
file, but thankfully, those days are over.
Now, here’s how to override those rules:
Always copy. To copy an object, hold the Ctrl key while dragging. If you
press Ctrl before you click, Windows assumes you’re still selecting files
(explained in the previous section), so make sure to press it only after
you’ve started dragging but before you let go of the mouse button. (The
exceptions are system objects, like Control Panel icons, that cannot be
copied.)
Duplicate an object. Hold the Ctrl key while dragging an object from one
part of a folder to another part of the same folder.
Always move. To move an object, hold the Shift key while dragging. Likewise, if you press Shift before you click, Windows assumes you’re still
selecting files, so make sure to press it only after you’ve started dragging but before you let go. (Of course, system objects and read-only
files, like those on a CD, cannot be moved.)
Always create a shortcut. To create a shortcut to an object under any situation, hold the Alt key while dragging.
Choose on the fly. To choose what happens to dragged files each time without having to press any keys, drag your files with the right mouse button, and a special menu like the one in Figure 2-15 will appear when
you drop the files. This context menu is especially helpful, because it
will display only options appropriate to the type of object you’re dragging and the place where you’ve dropped it.
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• If you drag an object into a ZIP folder anywhere, Windows copies the
file. (See “Zip It Up,” later in this chapter.)
Figure 2-15. Drag files with the right mouse button for more control
To help you predict what will happen, even if you haven’t memorized the
rules, Windows changes the mouse cursor to indicate what it intends to do.
While dragging an item, press and release the Ctrl, Shift, and Alt keys and
watch Windows change the cursors in real time. As illustrated by
Figure 2-16, you’ll see a small plus sign whenever you’re copying, a straight
arrow when moving, or a curved arrow when creating a shortcut. This visual
feedback is very important; it can eliminate a lot of stupid mistakes if you
pay attention to it.
There’s no way to set the default action for dragging and therefore no way to
avoid using keystrokes or the right mouse button to achieve the desired
results. Even if there were a way to change the default behavior, you probably wouldn’t want to do it; imagine if someone else sat down at your computer and started dragging icons: oh, the horror.
Make a mistake? Press Ctrl-Z to undo most types of file operations. If you’re
not sure what the last file operation was, open Windows Explorer. Then
right-click an empty area of the folder and hover the mouse over the Undo
menu item. Depending on the last action you took, the menu item will read
Undo Copy, Undo Move, Undo Rename, or Undo Delete. Additionally, if
you have the Status bar visible (press the Alt key to show the menu and then
select View ➝ Status bar), Explorer will usually explain what you’re about
to undo.
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Shell Tweaks
Figure 2-16. Windows Explorer provides visual feedback to let you know what’s going to
happen when you drop a file
Copy or Move to a Specified Path
Dragging and dropping is generally the quickest and easiest way to copy or
move files and folders from one place to another. Typically, though, it helps
if the source and destination folders are both visible at the same time. But
what if they’re not?
Solution 1: Drag patiently
In Windows Explorer, navigate to the source folder. Next, drag one or more
items over the tree pane on the left, then hover the mouse cursor over the
visible branch of the destination folder, and Explorer will automatically
expand the branch. You can also hover near the top or bottom of the Navigation pane to scroll up or down, respectively.
If the destination folder you’re looking for is buried several layers deep,
you’ll have to wait for Explorer to expand each level. This requires a steady
hand and a lot of patience.
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Solution 2: Use cut, copy, and paste
Select the file(s) you want to copy, right-click, and select Copy to copy the
items or Cut to move them. (Or, to use the keyboard, press Ctrl-C or Ctrl-V,
respectively, as described in “Who Doesn’t Love Keyboard Shortcuts?,” earlier.
When you cut a file, its icon appears faded (as though it were
a hidden file) until you paste it somewhere, or abandon the
operation. (Abandoning a cut operation does not delete the
file, by the way.) Explorer makes no visual distinction for
files you copy.
Next, open the destination folder, right-click an empty area, and select Paste
(or press Ctrl-V).
Solution 3: Use a third-party add-on
If you’re not satisfied with the tools Windows Explorer provides, you can
use one of the tools that comes with Creative Element Power Tools (http://
www.creativelement.com/powertools/). In the Creative Element Power Tools
Control Panel, turn on the Copy or Move files anywhere tool, and click
Accept.
Then, right-click any file or folder, select Move To or Copy To, and then
type or point to the destination folder. You can also create new folders on
the fly and duplicate paths in the destination folder; the software even
remembers the last dozen destinations you specified.
More Ways to Rename Files
Renaming files is just as common as copying or moving, but it can end up
being a much more tedious task in Windows Explorer.
In its simplest form, Explorer’s rename feature works like this: highlight a
file, wait a fraction of a second to avoid double-clicking, then click the filename. When the text field appears, type a new name and then press Enter to
rename the file. You can also right-click and select Rename, or highlight the
object and press the F2 key.
Then, do it 39 more times to rename all 40 files.
Solution 1: Select multiple files in Explorer
If you press F2 when more than one file is selected in Windows Explorer,
only one file—the active file—gets a text field for you to type in. Nothing
will happen to the other selected files, at least not yet.
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The active file is important, since its name is used as a template to rename
the other selected files. If the file marked as active is not the one you want to
use, hit Esc, and then hold the Ctrl key while clicking another file. If the
new file was highlighted, it will become deselected—in this case, just Ctrlclick the file once more to reselect it. Then, press F2 again to show the text
field.
Table 2-2. What happens when you try to rename multiple files in Explorer
Old filename
New filename
My file.doc (the active file)
The Penske File.rtf
Grandma.jpg
The Penske File (1).jpg
Readme.1st
The Penske File (2).1st
Purchases.mdb
The Penske File (3).mdb
Chapter 2 (a folder)
The Penske File (4)
Although Explorer doesn’t show you a preview of your new filenames, you
can undo a multiple rename operation as easily as a single rename operation
by pressing Ctrl-Z once for each file that was renamed. Want to undo a single rename of 17 files? You’ll need to press Ctrl-Z 17 times.
Solution 2: Use the Command Prompt
An alternative is to use the ren command (see Chapter 9), either directly from
the Command Prompt (cmd.exe), or from a batch file or PowerShell script.
First, use the cd command, also explained in Chapter 9, to change the working directory to the folder containing the files you wish to rename. For
example, type:
cd c:\stuff
to change to the C:\stuff folder. If the folder name contains a space, enclose
it in quotation marks, like this:
cd "c:\Progam Files\stuff"
Next, use the ren command to rename the file; the general syntax is:
ren source destination
where both source and destination can be any combination of permissible
characters and wildcards. Two wildcards are allowed: an asterisk (*), which is
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Rename the active file as desired, and press Enter when you’re done. The
active file keeps its new name, and then Explorer assigns the same name—
plus a number, in parenthesis—to all the other files. Table 2-2 shows what
happens when you rename files this way.
used to match any number of characters, and a question mark (?), which
is used to match only a single character. For example:
Rename a single file
ren oldfile.txt newfile.txt
Change the extension of all .txt files to .doc
ren *.txt *.doc
Rename the first part of a filename without changing the extension
ren document.* documentation.*
Remove the extensions of all files in the folder
ren *.* *.
Change the first letter of all files in a folder to “b”
ren *.* b*.*
Add a zero in front of numbered chapter files (note the quotation marks)
ren "chapter ??.wpd" "chapter0??.wpd"
Rename all files with an “s” in the fourth position so that a “t” appears there
instead
ren ???s*.* ???t*.*
Truncate the filenames of all files in the folder so that only the first four characters are used
ren *.* ????.*
Now, using wildcards takes a bit of practice and patience. The more you do
it, the better intuitive sense you’ll have of how to phrase a rename operation. To make things simpler, try issuing several successive ren commands
instead of trying to squeeze all your changes into a single step.
If a naming conflict occurs, the ren command never overwrites a file. For
example, if you try to rename Lisa.txt to Bart.txt, and there’s already
another file called Bart.txt, ren just displays an error.
Solution 3: Use a third-party add-on
Got a lot of files to rename? Use Power Rename, part of Creative Element
Power Tools (http://www.creativelement.com/powertools/). To use the tool,
open the Creative Element Power Tools Control Panel, turn on the Rename
files with ease option, and click Accept.
Then, highlight any number of files to rename, right-click, and select Power
Rename. Or, open the Power Rename utility (Figure 2-17) and drag-drop
the files onto the window.
Select the renaming criteria to your right. The first option, As Specified, allows
you to type a file specification with wildcards, as described previously, but the
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Shell Tweaks
Figure 2-17. Power Rename makes it much easier to rename many files at once
real power lies in With Operation, and the operations that follow. For
instance, you can insert text anywhere, remove text (crop), search and
replace text, add numbering, and even fix numbered codes in files downloaded from the Web.
Turn on the Show what files will look like option to see a live preview of the
filenames as you adjust the options. When you’re done, click Accept to
rename the files.
Delete In-Use Files
Sometimes Vista won’t let you delete a file, which is stupid because it’s your
PC and you should be able to delete anything you want. So there.
Of course, there are times when Vista does know better than you, and prevents you from deleting files that are currently in use to avoid causing
crashes or data loss. An in-use file could be a document that’s currently
open, a program executable that’s currently running, or a folder locked by a
running application.
Most of the time, you can get around this by closing the application or
restarting Windows, but it’s not always that easy.
For instance, if the program has crashed, you’ll need to use Task Manager to
end the process; see “What to Do When a Program Crashes,” in Chapter 6,
for details. Or, if the program is actually a Windows service, you’ll need to
use the Services window (services.msc) to stop the service before you’ll be
allowed to delete the file.
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There are times when Windows won’t let you delete a file,
not because it’s in use, but because you don’t have permission. See “Permissions and Security,” in Chapter 8—particularly the section on taking ownership of a file—for details.
But what if the file you’re trying to delete is part of a virus? Or what if you
know the file isn’t open, but Vista still won’t let you delete it?
Solution 1: Use the Command Prompt
Windows Vista has a special way to get to the Command Prompt without
loading most of the rest of the operating system, not to mention any applications or services (or viruses) that can come along for the ride. See “What to Do
When Windows Won’t Start,” in Chapter 6, for details on getting to the Safe
Mode with Command Prompt, one of the options in Windows’ F8 menu.
Once you’re there, use the del command (see Chapter 9) to delete the file.
When that’s done, close the Command Prompt window, or type exit and
press Enter to restart your PC and load Windows.
Solution 2: Use Wininit.ini
If you don’t want to use the Command Prompt, you can use another littleknown trick that takes advantage of a feature used by application installers
to replace program files.
First, open Windows Explorer and navigate to your C:\Windows folder.
Double-click the Wininit.ini file to open it in Notepad (or any other standard plain-text editor).
If the file isn’t there, just create a new empty text file, name it Wininit.ini,
and type the following line at the top:
[rename]
(In most cases, the Wininit.ini file will exist but will be empty, with the
exception of the [rename] line; any other lines you see here would’ve been
added by a recent application installation.)
Under the [rename] section header, type the following line:
NUL=c:\folder\filename.ext
where c:\folder\filename.ext is the full path and filename of the file you wish
to delete. You can specify as many files here as you want, one on each line.
To replace a file rather than simply deleting it, the syntax is a little different:
c:\folder\existing.ext=c:\folder\replacement.ext
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where c:\folder\existing.ext is the full path and filename of the file you’re
trying to replace, and c:\folder\replacement.ext is the full path and filename of the new file to take its place. If the file specified on the right side of
the equals sign doesn’t exist, then the existing.ext file will be moved/
renamed to c:\folder\replacement.ext.
Zip It Up
The late Phil Katz conceived of the ZIP file format at his mother’s kitchen
table in 1986, and soon thereafter wrote a little program called PKZip.
Although his program, capable of encapsulating and compressing any number of ordinary files and folders into a single archive file, was not the first of
its type, it quickly became a standard and ended up revolutionizing the
transfer and storage of computer data.
ZIP files work somewhat like folders in that they “contain” files, so it’s not
surprising that they’re represented as folders in Windows Explorer. But a
ZIP file is typically smaller than the sum of its contents, thanks to the ZIP
compression scheme. (Of course, other standards, like RAR, offer much better compression, but Vista doesn’t support .rar files without a third-party
utility.)
For example, a folder with 10 spreadsheet documents might consume 8 MB
of disk space, but when zipped, might only consume 3 MB (or even less).
The level of compression varies with the type of data being compressed;
zipped text documents can be as small as 4 or 5% of the size of the original
source files, but since movies and images are already compressed, they’ll
only compress to 95 to 98% of their original size, if that.
This compression makes ZIP files great for sending over the
Internet, since smaller files can be sent faster. The ZIP
archive format also has built-in error checking, so if you find
that certain files are getting corrupted when you email them
or send them through a web site, try zipping them up to
“protect” them.
To open a ZIP file, just double-click it. You can extract files from ZIP
archives by dragging them out of the ZIP folder window. You can also rightclick a ZIP file and select Extract All, but you’ll have to deal with a more
cumbersome wizard interface.
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When you’re done, save the file, close Notepad, and restart Windows. The files
will be deleted or replaced as you’ve specified during the startup procedure.
Create a new ZIP file by right-clicking on an empty portion of the desktop or
any open folder, and selecting New ➝ Compressed (zipped) folder. (The
name here is actually misleading, since ZIP archives are actually files and not
folders.) Then, add files or folders to the ZIP by simply dragging them onto
the icon or the open ZIP window.
Another way to do this is to right-click a folder or a group of files, select
Send To, and then select Compressed (zipped) folder. This is especially
convenient, as there’s no wizard or other interface to get in the way: if you
send the CompuGlobalHyperMegaNet folder to a ZIP file, Windows compresses the folder’s contents into a new CompuGlobalHyperMegaNet.zip file,
stored alongside the source folder.
All of this is possible because Windows Vista supports the ZIP format right
out of the box. (For years, this wasn’t the case because Katz reportedly
despised Windows, which may explain why Windows XP, released a year
after his death, was the first version of Windows to support ZIP files without a third-party program.)
Unfortunately, there are drawbacks to Windows Explorer’s built-in support
for ZIP files. For example, it can interfere with searches, as described in
“Search Tricks,” later in this chapter. It can also interfere with third-party
ZIP tools like WinZip (http://www.winzip.com), which adds more features
and, ironically, better integration with Explorer’s own context menus. But
the biggest problem is that, by default, Vista displays each ZIP file like a
folder, which can make a big mess if you have a folder full of ’em.
Unfortunately, there’s no way to get Windows Explorer to treat ZIP files like
files without disabling the ZIP feature altogether. But if you want to do it,
here’s how.
Turn off ZIP support (the easy way)
Download the vistaunzip.reg file at http://www.annoyances.org/exec/download/
vistaunzip.reg, and save it to your desktop. Double-click the vistaunzip.reg
file, click Continue (if prompted), then click Yes, and then click OK in the
final confirmation window. Restart Windows for the change to take effect.
If you want to turn ZIP support back on, download vistazip.reg from http://
www.annoyances.org/exec/download/vistazip.reg, and double-click it as just
described.
If you’re interested in trying out the Registry hack by hand, see the “Turn
Off ZIP Support (the Hard Way)” sidebar, next.
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Turn Off ZIP Support (the Hard Way)
If you’d rather disable Vista’s built-in ZIP support by hand than have to
download files, follow these steps:
Shell Tweaks
1. Open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3).
2. Expand the branches to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\CLSID.
3. Delete these two keys in this branch:
{E88DCCE0-B7B3-11d1-A9F0-00AA0060FA31}
{0CD7A5C0-9F37-11CE-AE65-08002B2E1262}
4. When you’re done, close Registry Editor and then restart Windows for
the change to take effect.
Customize Drive and Folder Icons
There may come a time when you get a little sick of the generic icons used for
drives and folders in Windows Explorer. Now, you’ve probably figured out
that you can create a shortcut to any drive or folder, choose a pretty icon, and
place it on the desktop or in another convenient location. Unfortunately, the
icon you choose is just for the shortcut; the target object always looks the same.
Here are some ways to give your folders and drives a more custom look.
Solution 1: Choose an icon for a drive
Using the functionality built in to Windows’ CD auto-insert notification feature—functionality that allows Windows to determine the name and icon of
a CD as soon as it’s inserted in the reader (see “Search Tricks,” later in this
chapter)—there’s a simple way to customize the icons of all your drives,
including flash drives and USB hard disks:
1. Open a plain-text editor, such as Notepad.
2. Type the following:
[autorun]
icon=filename, number
where filename is the name of the file containing the icon, and number is
the index of the icon to use (leave number blank or specify 0 [zero] to use
the first icon in the file, 1 for the second, and so on).
3. Save the file as Autorun.inf and place it in the root directory of the hard
disk, flash drive, or CD/DVD you wish to customize.
4. This change will take effect the next time you view it in Windows
Explorer; press the F5 key to refresh the display and read the new icons.
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Solution 2: Chose an icon for a folder
You can customize the icon for an individual folder with this procedure:
1. Open a plain-text editor, such as Notepad.
2. Type the following:
[.ShellClassInfo]
IconFile=filename
IconIndex=number
where filename is the name of the file containing the icon, and number is
the index of the icon to use; leave the IconIndex line out or specify 0
(zero) to use the first icon in the file, 1 for the second, and so on. Note
the dot (.) in [.ShellClassInfo].
3. Save the file as desktop.ini and place it directly in the folder you wish to
customize.
If there’s already a file by that name, you can replace it with
your version, but it’s better to open the existing file and add
the [.ShellClassInfo] text to it.
4. Next, open a Command Prompt window (cmd.exe), and type the following at the prompt:
attrib +s foldername
where foldername is the full path of the folder containing the desktop.ini
file (i.e., C:\docs). This command turns on the System attribute for the
folder (not the desktop.ini file), something you can’t do in Explorer; see
Chapter 9 for details.
5. Close the Command Prompt window when you’re done. You’ll have to
close and reopen the Explorer or single-folder window to see the change
(pressing F5 usually won’t do it).
Solution 3: Choose the default icon for all folders
The more global and far-reaching a change is, the more likely it is to be difficult or impossible to accomplish without some serious tinkering in the Registry. An example are the icons used by some of the seemingly hardcoded
objects in Windows, such as the icons used for ordinary, generic folders.
1. Open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3).
2. Expand the branches to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\Folder\DefaultIcon (you
can also choose a generic drive icon by going to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\
Drive\DefaultIcon).
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3. Double-click the (Default) value in the right pane. This value contains
the full path and filename of the file containing the icon, followed by a
comma, and then a number specifying the index of the icon to use (0
being the first icon, 1 being the second, and so on). The file you use can
be an icon file (.ico), a bitmap (.bmp), a .dll file, an application executable (.exe), or any other file containing a valid icon.
Shell Tweaks
The default icon for folders is %SystemRoot%\System32\
shell32.dll,3, and the default for drives is %SystemRoot%\
System32\shell32.dll,8.
4. When you’re done, close the Registry Editor. You may have to log out
and then log back in for this change to take effect.
Search Tricks
Most of us rely on the Windows Search tool on a daily basis to find and
organize files. It’s a tremendously powerful tool, but if you leave its defaults
intact, you’ll be missing out on a lot of its potential.
Vista’s Search tool is easy to use: just click the Search box in the upper-right
corner of any Windows Explorer window and type a few letters of what
you’re seeking; the search results will show up below in a few moments.
When you initiate a search, Windows doesn’t start looking through all of
your folders and files. Rather, it merely runs your query against its own
index of files, much like Internet search engines such as Google or Yahoo!.
But, just like search engines, Vista’s search results can be out of date, to the
point of omitting some files or including others that have since been deleted.
The good news is that you can customize Vista’s Search feature to include
more files, get your results sooner, and even make search results more
accurate.
The bad news is that the settings that affect searches are scattered across five
different windows, so it’s somewhat difficult to see the big picture when
choosing search options.
Build a good index
If you want to improve your searches, the best place to start is with the
indexing feature itself. In Control Panel, open the Indexing Options window to show the folders in which Windows currently looks for files. Click
Modify to open the Indexed Locations window shown in Figure 2-18.
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Figure 2-18. Use the Indexed Locations window to instruct Windows to include more
folders in your searches
Here, place a checkmark next to each folder to include in the index; you can
index an entire drive, or use the tiny arrows to expand branches and index
only certain subfolders. (If the Show all locations button is available at the
bottom of the window, click it now to have full reign over your hard disk.)
By default, only your personal files are indexed. But if you plan on hacking
up Vista as described elsewhere in this book, you may want to index your
entire drive. This will make it easier to find .exe files in the Windows folder,
for instance, but doing so will increase the size of the index, which may slow
down the rest of your searches.
For privacy purposes, you may wish to exclude certain folders by clearing
their checkboxes. You can further speed up searches by also excluding folders you don’t need to search. All the folders you’ve included or excluded
appear in the Summary of selected locations section.
Click OK when you’ve selected folders to index, but you’re not done yet.
Next, click the Advanced button to open the Advanced Options window.
Most of the options shown here are fairly self-explanatory, but what may
not be obvious is that Windows won’t index many file types unless you
select them by hand in the File Types tab, shown in Figure 2-19.
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Shell Tweaks
Figure 2-19. Windows won’t index many types of files unless you specifically enable
indexing for them here
Just place a checkmark next to each file type you want to index; if you’re
serious about getting complete results, you’ll want to check them all. Why?
Say you’re looking for a DLL file in the Windows\System32 folder and you
decide to use the Search tool to find the file. So, you click the Search box
and type, say, mapi32.dll. Now, if DLL files aren’t indexed, the search
results will be empty, erroneously indicating that the file doesn’t exist!
Of course, the more file types you index, the larger the index becomes, and
the longer your searches might take. One way to mitigate this is to select the
Index Properties Only option, but this will only take you so far.
You see, the Filter Description column shows you exactly how much Vista
knows about any particular file; if it says File Properties filter or Null filter—
as it does for DLL files — Windows is able to index the file’s name, date,
and size, but not much else. Only if it says something more specific, such
as Plain Text filter for text files, or Microsoft Office Filter for Excel
spreadsheets, will Windows bother opening the file to index its contents.
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So, even if you select the Index Properties and File Contents option here,
you won’t be indexing the contents of that many files.
When you’re done, click OK, and then close the Indexing Options window.
Although the settings will take effect right away, it’ll take some time for
Windows to rebuild the index to the point where these settings will make
any difference in search results. (It could be minutes or days, depending on
what you’ve selected.)
Search outside the index
Vista’s search index makes searches much faster, but at a price: the search
results are often incomplete. This is particularly true on removable drives;
even though you may’ve instructed Windows to index these drives, it won’t
do so when they’re not connected, and may even purge the index of their
contents when you disconnect them.
Not that big a deal, right?
Wrong. When you conduct a search on a location that’s supposed to be in
the index, yet contains no indexed files, your searches will turn up empty.
This means you can be looking at a folder full of files, say, that start with s,
but when you type s*.* in the Search box, you get nothing.
The solution is to click the Advanced Search button under the Search box.
You don’t see Advanced Search? When the search is complete, scroll to the
bottom of the search results, and under Did you find what you were searching for?, click Advanced Search. Or, if you don’t want to wait for the search
to finish, click the Search Tools drop-down, select Search Pane, and then
click Advanced Search.
Once the Advanced Search pane (Figure 2-20) is open, turn on the Include
non-indexed, hidden, and system files (might be slow) option, and then
watch as Windows populates your window with up-to-date search results.
Unfortunately, there’s no way to instruct Windows to automatically search
non-indexed files when you’re looking at an indexed location, but there are
two different workarounds. For one, you can tell Windows to abandon the
index altogether; in Control Panel, open Folder Options, choose the Search
tab, and turn on the Don’t use the Index when searching the file system
(might be slow) option.
But a better choice is to simply exclude removable drives and folders from
your index, as described earlier in this section. When you search an explicitly excluded folder, Windows automatically skips the index and searches
the actual files therein.
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Shell Tweaks
Figure 2-20. Open the Advanced Search pane so you can search outside the index and get
more complete search results
Other search tips
Who’s in the mood for some advanced search syntax? Here are some helpful shortcuts you can type right in the Search box.
To accomplish this:
Type this in the Search box:
Find files containing multiple terms in any order
bottomless peanut bag
Find files containing an exact phrase
“bottomless peanut bag”
Find files with at least one of the search terms
peanuts OR pecans OR cashews
Exclude a search term
peanuts NOT filberts
Combine operators
(peanuts OR filberts) AND (almonds OR hazelnuts) NOT
cashews
Look only in filenames, not file contents
name: shiny
Search by filename extension
*.jpg
Show all files in all subfolders
*.*
Find files newer than a certain date
modified: >01/12/1997
Find files in a date range
(modified: >09/20/2002) AND (modified: <12/20/2002)
Find files matching a general date
modified: 2007
Find files of a certain size
(size: >10 MB) AND (size: <20 MB)
Search metadata
author: “Hoban Washburne”
Search music by tag
kind: music artist: (“Carbon Leaf” OR “Nerf Herder”)
Note that Boolean operators AND, OR, and NOT must
appear in uppercase. Also, as you can see, the AND operator is more or less optional; it’s used here mostly for clarity.
Working with Files and Folders
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By default, Windows looks inside compressed archives like .zip and .cab files
for other files to index, and this can lead to a rather strange phenomenon. If
a search finds a file that happens to be inside a .zip archive, the search
results won’t tell you this; instead, the Folder and Folder path columns will
just be blank. If you get tired of seeing extraneous, unlabeled results in your
searches, disable Vista’s built-in .zip support, as described in “Zip It Up,”
earlier in this chapter.
As you work, Windows indexes your files in the background. In theory, this
should happen only when the computer is idle, but in practice, it’s not
unusual to hear the hard disk thrashing while seeing SearchIndexer.exe consuming more than a trivial percentage of processor cycles in Task Manager
(see Chapter 5). If you need to complete a processor-intensive task as
quickly as possible, or if you just want better performance in a game, you
can temporarily stop the search indexer task without disabling the search
index altogether. Just open the Services window (services.msc), find Windows Search in the list, right-click and select Stop. It will start up again
automatically the next time you load Windows, or you can start it manually
by right-clicking the service again and selecting Start.
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Chapter 3The RegistryThe Registry
CHAPTER 3
The Registry
The Registry is deceptive. At first glance, it’s a massive collection of esoteric
settings and cryptic codes. But once you get cozy with it, you’ll find most of
the Registry well-organized, in plain English, and with many of its components illustrating their own structure.
It’s also deceptive in its scope. Much of what seems hardcoded in Windows
Vista is indeed governed by data in the Registry: delete a certain key, and an
icon disappears from the Computer folder. But as you dig deeper, you’ll find
certain things (like parts of the “file types” system) have been jury-rigged to
act a certain way despite what’s in the Registry.
In essence, the Registry is a database containing all the settings for Windows and most of the applications installed on your system. All of your file
type associations—the links between your documents and the applications
that created them—are built from Registry data. Your network settings,
your hardware settings, each of your applications’ customizable toolbars,
and even Windows’ own Control Panel settings are all stored in the Registry. And the various software components, the building blocks of nearly all
your programs (not to mention Windows itself), are “registered” in your
Registry.
But who cares? Is the storage mechanism nearly as important as the settings
themselves?
The value of diving into the Registry is in discovering the things in the Registry that can only be changed by editing it directly. You can fix misbehaving
applications, uncover hidden features, and turn off annoying habits of Windows you thought you had to live with. Indeed, a lot of the solutions in this
book take advantage of a little Registry hacking.
83
Now for the obligatory warning. You can irreversibly disable certain components of Windows Vista—or even prevent Windows from loading altogether—
by changing certain settings in the Registry. Sure, most modern software is
designed to repair broken settings, but it’s assured that very few software
developers have taken the time to anticipate all the weird things you’ll
undoubtedly do to your PC. I’m certainly not suggesting that you run and
hide, but rather that you employ some of the safeguards described on these
pages—such as backing up—before you start hacking the Registry to bits.
For instance, take a few moments to create a Registry patch—explained later
in this chapter—before you change a setting, and you’ll thank me later.
The Registry Editor
Most of the changes to the Registry are performed behind the scenes by the
applications that you run, as well as by Windows—settings and other information are read from and written to the Registry constantly. But the primary means of editing Registry keys and values directly is the Registry Editor
(open the Start menu, type regedit, and then press Enter), included with all
editions of Windows Vista.
Although the Registry is stored in multiple files on your hard disk, it is represented by a single logical hierarchical structure, similar to the folders on
your hard disk. When you open the Registry Editor, you’ll see a window
divided into two panes (as shown in Figure 3-1). The left side shows a tree
with folders, and the right side shows the contents of the currently selected
folder. Now, these aren’t really folders—this is just a convenient and familiar
method of organizing and displaying the information stored in your Registry.
Figure 3-1. The Registry Editor lets you view and change the contents of the Registry
Each folder-like object is called a key. Each key can contain other keys, as
well as values. Values contain the actual information stored in the Registry,
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while keys are used only to organize the values. Keys are shown only in the
left pane; values are shown only in the right pane (unlike Windows
Explorer, where folders are shown in both panes).
To display the contents of a key (folder), just click the desired key name on
the left, and the values contained therein will be listed in alphabetical order
on the right side. To expand a certain branch to show its subkeys, click the
tiny arrow to the left of any folder (or double-click the folder name).
Editing the Registry generally involves navigating down through branches to
a particular key and then modifying an existing value or creating a new key
or value. For instance, this following Registry path:
points to the location of the Windows key, which you can get to by expanding the HKEY_CURRENT_USER branch, then Software, then Microsoft, and then
finally clicking Windows to show its contents on the right.
If you find yourself returning to the same Registry path over
and over, use the Favorites menu to bookmark the item. Better yet, to view two different Registry locations simultaneously, start a second instance of Registry Editor by typing
regedit /m in the Start menu Search box and pressing Enter.
Once the key is open, you can modify the contents of a value by doubleclicking it. See “The Meat of the Registry: Values,” later in this chapter, for
the skinny on value types and how to edit them.
You can also rename any key or value just like you’d rename a file in Windows Explorer: click twice slowly, right-click and select Rename, or highlight and press F2. Likewise, you can delete a key or value by highlighting
it and pressing the Del key or by right-clicking it and selecting Delete.
(Note that deleting a key will also delete all the values and subkeys it contains.)
You can’t drag-drop keys or values here as you can with files
in Windows Explorer. Of course, there’s very little reason to
move a key or value from one place to another in the Registry, as the settings are totally location-dependent. A value in
one key will almost always have a different meaning than the
same value in a different key.
There are times, however, when you’ll need to duplicate a
key and all its contents (such as a file type key), which is
something you can do with Registry patches, described later
in this chapter.
The Registry Editor |
85
The Registry
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows
To add a new key or value, select New from the Edit menu, select what type
of object you want to add (Figure 3-2), type a name, and press Enter.
Figure 3-2. Select New from the Edit menu to add a new key or value to any part of the
Registry
You can create a value (or key) almost anywhere in the Registry and by any name and type that suits your whim. However, unless Windows or an application is specifically
designed to look for the value, it will be ignored, and your
addition will have absolutely no effect.
So far, the Registry Editor should seem pretty straightforward. But you’ll
find that the hard part is that you can’t change something in the Registry
until you know what to change, and that’s what the rest of this chapter is
about.
First, the Registry Editor has a Search feature (Edit ➝ Find or press Ctrl-F),
but you’ll quickly find that it pretty much sucks. See “Search the Registry,”
later in this chapter, for search tips, as well as better search tools you can
use. There’s also “Find the Registry Key That Does...,” which is useful if
you don’t know what to search for. But as I said earlier, the stuff in the Registry is basically location-dependent, which means you need to be
acquainted with the structure of the Registry before you’ll know where to go
to make a specific change.
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The Structure of the Registry
There are five primary, or “root,” branches, each containing a specific portion of the information stored in the Registry. These root keys can’t be
deleted, renamed, or moved, because they are the basis for the organization
of the Registry. They are:
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT
This branch contains the information that comprises your file type associations and the registered software components (called classes) used by
Windows and many of your applications.
HKEY_CURRENT_USER
This branch simply points to a portion of the HKEY_USERS root key (later
in this section) representing the currently logged-in user. This way, any
application can read and write settings for the current user without having to know which user is currently logged in.
In each user’s branch are the settings for that user, such as Control
Panel settings and Explorer preferences. Most applications store userspecific information here as well, such as toolbars, high scores for
games, and other personal settings.
The settings for the current user are divided into several categories, such
as AppEvents, Control Panel, Identities, Software, and System. The most
useful of these branches, Software, contains a branch for almost every
application installed on your computer, arranged by manufacturer. Here
and in HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE (discussed later) can be found all of
your application settings. As though Windows was just another application on your system, you’ll find most user-specific Windows settings in
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows.
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE
This branch contains information about all of the hardware and software installed on your computer that isn’t specific to the currently
logged-in user. The settings in this branch are the same for all users on
your system.
* A symbolic link is different from a Windows shortcut you’d find on your hard disk. Information
in a linked branch appears twice and can be accessed at two different locations, even though it’s
stored only once. This means that Find may stop in both places if they contain something you’re
looking for and, as you might expect, changes in one place will be immediately reflected in the
mirrored location.
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The Registry
This entire branch is a symbolic link,* or “mirror,” of HKEY_LOCAL_
MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Classes, but is displayed separately here for convenience and, of course, to confuse you.
The sub-branch of most interest here is the SOFTWARE branch, which contains all of the information specific to the applications installed on your
computer. Both this branch and the aforementioned HKEY_CURRENT_USER\
Software branch are used to store application-specific information.
Those settings that are specific to each user (even if your computer has
only one user), such as toolbar configurations, are stored in the aforementioned HKEY_CURRENT_USER branch; those settings that are not userdependent, such as installation folders and lists of installed components,
are stored in the HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE branch. You’ll want to look in both
places if you’re trying to find a particular application setting, because
most manufacturers (even Microsoft) aren’t especially careful about
which branch is used for any given setting.
HKEY_USERS
This branch contains a sub-branch for the currently logged-in user, the
name of which is a long string of numbers that looks something like this:
S-1-5-21-1727987266-1036259444-725315541-500
This number is the SID (security identifier), a unique ID for each user
on your system (yours will be different than this one). See Chapter 8 for
more information on SIDs.
While it may sound like a good idea to edit the contents of this branch,
you should instead use the HKEY_CURRENT_USER branch described earlier,
which is a symbolic link (mirror) of this branch:
HKEY_USERS\S-1-5-21-1727987266-1036259444-725315541-500
No matter which user is logged in, HKEY_CURRENT_USER will point to the
appropriate portion of HKEY_USERS.
Because Windows only loads the profile (this portion of the
Registry) of the currently logged-in user, only one user
branch will ever be shown here. However, there will be a few
other branches here, such as .default (used when nobody is
logged in), and a few other branches that are of little interest
to most users.
HKEY_CURRENT_CONFIG
This branch typically contains a small amount of information, most of
which is simply symbolic links (mirrors) of other keys in the Registry.
There’s usually little reason to mess with this branch.
You’ll eventually find that everything you’ll want to do with the Registry can
be done in either HKEY_CURRENT_USER or HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE.
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The Meat of the Registry: Values
Values are where Registry data is actually stored (while keys are simply used
to organize values). The Registry uses several types of values—eight in all—
each appropriate to the type of data it is meant to hold. Each type is known
by at least two different names, the common name and the symbolic name
(shown in parentheses in Table 3-1).
Table 3-1. Value types visible in the Registry Editor
Icon used
in RegEdit
Value type
Can be created
in RegEdit?
Yes
Multistring/string array (REG_MULTI_SZ)
Yes
Expandable string (REG_EXPAND_SZ)
Yes
Binary (REG_BINARY)
Yes
DWORD 32-Bit (REG_DWORD)
Yes
DWORD 64-Bit (REG_QWORD)
Yes
DWORD (REG_DWORD_BIGENDIAN)
No
Resource List (REG_RESOURCE_LIST, REG_RESOURCE_REQUIREMENTS_LIST,
or FULL_RESOURCE_DESCRIPTOR)
No
The Registry
String (REG_SZ)
Although the Registry Editor allows you to view and edit all eight types of
values, it is only capable of creating the six most common (and not surprisingly, most useful) types. In practice, you’ll typically only create string,
binary, and DWORD values.
String values
String values contain strings of characters, more commonly known as
plain text. Most values of interest to you will end up being string values; they’re the easiest to edit and are usually in plain English. To edit a
string value, just double-click, type a string of text into the text field
(Figure 3-3), and click OK when you’re done.
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Figure 3-3. Edit a string value by typing text into this box
In addition to standard strings, there are two far less common string
variants, used for special purposes:
• Multistring/string array values contain several strings, concatenated
(glued) together and separated by null characters. Although the
Registry Editor lets you create multistring values, it’s impossible to
type null characters (character #0 in the ASCII character set) from
the keyboard. The only way to place a null character into a Registry
value is either through a programming environment (see Chapter 9)
or via cut-and-paste from another application.
• Expandable string values contain special variables, into which Windows substitutes information before delivering to the owning application. For example, an expandable string value intended to point
to a sound file may contain %SystemRoot%\Media\doh.wav. When
Windows reads this value from the Registry, it substitutes the full
Windows path for the variable, %SystemRoot%; the resulting data then
becomes (depending on where Windows is installed) c:\Windows\
Media\doh.wav. This way, the value data is correct regardless of the
location of the Windows folder.
If you were to type data intended for an expandable string
value into an ordinary string value, the variables wouldn’t
necessarily be expanded when read by an application.
Binary values
Similar to string values, binary values hold strings of characters. The difference is the way the data is viewed and edited. Instead of a standard
text box, binary data is entered with hexadecimal codes in an interface
commonly known as a hex editor. Each individual character is specified
by a two-digit number in base-16 (e.g., 6E is 110 in good-ol’ base 10),
which allows characters not found on the keyboard to be entered. See
Figure 3-4 for an example.
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You can type hex codes on the left side or normal ASCII
characters on the right, depending on where you click with
the mouse.
The purpose of binary values is to hold data that couldn’t be easily represented by ordinary string values. As such, binary values are much less
likely to contain readable text (despite the example value in Figure 3-4),
but rather simply raw data. Of course, the format and purpose of the
data in any given binary value depends entirely on the application that
created it.
The Registry
Figure 3-4. Binary values are entered differently from the common string values, but the
contents are sometimes nearly as readable
DWORD values
Essentially, a DWORD is a number. Often, the contents of a DWORD
value are easy to understand, such as 0 for no and 1 for yes, or 161 for
the number of seconds it took you to solve your best game of Sudoku. A
DWORD value is used where only numerical digits are allowed,
whereas a string or binary value can contain anything.
In the DWORD value editor (Figure 3-5), you can change the base of
the number displayed (think back to your grade-school math). For
instance, the number 64 in hexadecimal (also known as base 16) is equal
to 100 in decimal (base 10).
The Structure of the Registry
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91
Type the number in the wrong base, and you’ll unwittingly
be entering the wrong value. (The Base option doesn’t matter for any value of 9 or less.)
In most cases, you’ll want to select Decimal (even though Microsoft
didn’t bother to make it the default), since decimal notation is what
most humans use for ordinary counting numbers. Note that if there’s
already a number in the Value data field, switching the Base converts
the number in real time, which incidentally is a good way to illustrate
the difference between the two settings.
Figure 3-5. DWORD values are just numbers, but they can be represented in decimal or
hexadecimal notation
The application that creates each value in the Registry solely determines the
particular type and purpose of the value. In other words, no strict rules limit
which types are used in which circumstances or how values are named. A
programmer may choose to store, say, the high scores for some game in a
binary value called High Scores or in a string value called Lard Lad Donuts. All
you have to do in your role as Registry hacker is provide the values in the
format expected by a given application.
An important thing to notice at this point is the string value named
(default) that appears at the top of every key.* The default value cannot be
removed or renamed, although its contents can be changed; an empty
default value is signified by value not set. The (default) value doesn’t necessarily have any special meaning that would differentiate it from any other
* In the more simplistic Registry found in Windows 3.1 and Windows NT 3.x, each key had only
one value. Starting in Windows 95, a key could contain any number of values; the default value
simply took the place of the lone value from previous versions, allowing compatibility with older
applications that were written before the change took effect. In fact, many things you’ll find in the
Registry are designed with such “legacy” support in mind.
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value, apart from what might have been assigned by the programmer of the
particular application that uses the key.
When Is a Number Not Just a Number?
Sometimes the number stored in a DWORD value is actually made up of several components, all glued together with the binary arithmetic we were supposed to have learned in the seventh grade.
The Registry
The term “DWORD” is an abbreviation for “Double Word,” which means
that it can store two 16-bit values (known as “Words” in geekspeak). A 16-bit
value is basically a whole number (integer) that can be stored in 16 bits, which
means it can be no larger than 216, or 65,536. So, a DWORD value can be used
to store two of these, or one 32-bit number (up to 232, or 4,294,967,296), or
even thirty-two 1-bit numbers (each of which can be 1 or 0).
Windows Vista also supports the 64-bit DWORD value, which is available
even if you’re using the 32-bit edition of Vista. A 64-bit DWORD—equivalent to a QWORD (Quadruple Word)—can hold sixty-four 1-bit values, four
16-bit values, two 32-bit values, or one 64-bit value (which can be up to about
1.8 × 1019).
(Strangely, 64- and 32-bit DWORD values are indistinguishable in the Registry Editor except in the DWORD editor (Figure 3-5). Presumably, you’d only
want to use a 64-bit value with a 64-bit application, for which you’d need the
64-bit edition of Windows Vista.
So, the question that’s probably on your mind is, “Huh? How can this knowledge possibly help me with my love life?”
The answer is that it can’t. In fact, it’ll probably just make things worse. But
it’ll be invaluable when you come across a DWORD value that’s made up of
a bunch of smaller components. For instance, say you flip a switch in some
application and you witness a DWORD value change from 16 to 8. What
you’ve uncovered is that the aforementioned switch is stored as the fourth bit
(the first being 1, the second being 2, and the third being 4) in this value. (If
you’re confused, look up “Binary numeral system” in Wikipedia for help with
the concept.)
To make things more complicated, there’s also the BIGENDIAN variant of
the DWORD value (REG_DWORD_BIGENDIAN). This is basically the
same as an ordinary 32-bit DWORD, except that the two 16-bit words are
stored in the opposite order (the larger one coming first).These are rare, but
you might run into trouble if you replace one with an ordinary DWORD
value.
The Structure of the Registry
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Registry Tasks and Tools
So, that’s it for Registry basics. The real fun begins with the various Registry
tools you can use, and what you can do with them.
Search the Registry
The Registry Editor has a simple (to a fault) Search feature, allowing you to
search through all the keys and values for text. Just select Find from the Registry Editor’s Edit menu, type the desired text (Figure 3-6), and click Find Next.
Figure 3-6. Use Registry Editor’s Search feature to find text in key names, value names,
and value data
The Registry Editor’s Search feature is pretty terrible. For one, it’s hopelessly slow, and doesn’t show a history of past searches. But its biggest
drawback is that it only shows one match at a time; you have to click Find
Next repeatedly to cycle through all the search results, one by one. And if
you accidentally double-click Find Next, there’s no going backward. Finally,
there’s no search-and-replace feature, but more on that later.
Press Ctrl-F or select Edit ➝ Find to begin a search at the selected key. (Scroll
to the top and select Computer beforehand to search the entire Registry.)
In the Find window, make sure that all three options in the Look at section are
checked, unless you know specifically that what you’re looking for is solely a
Key, a Value (value name), or Data (value contents). You’ll also usually want
the Match whole string only option turned off, unless you’re searching for text
that commonly appears in other words; searching for handle might otherwise
trigger entries like PersistentHandler and TeachAndLearn.
The Registry Editor stops once it finds the first match to
your search term; just press F3 to continue searching for the
next match. If you want to show all the matches at once, use
Registry Agent, introduced in the next section.
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You may need to employ some tricks to find certain types of things in the
Registry, such as:
Text searches are not case-sensitive, so you don’t have to
worry about capitalization when typing your search terms.
File and folder names
Despite the fact that long filenames (those longer than the archaic 8-dot-3
standard left over from the early days of DOS) had been in wide use
on the PC platform for well over a decade before Windows Vista was
released, short filenames* still have a role in modern Windows computing, particularly in the Registry. Specifically, a folder path like C:\
Program Files may be occasionally represented in its short 8.3 form:
C:\PROGRA~1.
Why, even Microsoft still uses short filenames; a fresh installation of Office
2007 (introduced alongside Windows Vista) placed a reference in the Registry to C:\PROGRA~1\MICROS~2\Office12\1033\ACCESS12.ACC.
Unfortunately, this means you need to search for both the long and
short versions of a file or folder name if you want to find them all. For
example, say you want to move your Program Files folder from one
drive to another. When you install Windows, any settings pertaining to
this folder may be stored in the Registry as C:\Program Files or C:\
Progra~1. Make sure you search for both.
* See “Advanced NTFS Settings,” in Chapter 5, for more information on short-filename generation.
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The Registry
Context menu items
Context menu items are usually stored in the HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT branch
(see “File Type Associations,” later in this chapter). When searching for
any menu items, keep in mind that most of them have underlined characters to signify keyboard shortcuts, even though, ironically, Windows
Vista doesn’t display them by default. For instance, the Datasheet
action associated with Access Form Shortcuts in Microsoft Office 2007
is actually stored as Data&sheet in the Registry. This allows it to be displayed as Datasheet if you manage to open the menu with the keyboard
(an increasingly difficult task in Windows Vista). The & character in
Data&sheet instructs Windows to underline the character that follows it
(the s in this case), and since it’s present in the Registry value, you’ll
need to include the & character in your searches; if you don’t, the Search
tool won’t find it.
Now, when searching the Registry for both Program Files
and Progra~1, it may occur to you to just search for progra,
which will indeed catch both variations. Because this will
stumble upon other instances of the word program, try limiting the results by placing a backslash (\) in front of the text
(e.g., \progra) to limit the search to only directory names
beginning with those letters. Neato.
DLLs, classes, components, extensions, and CLSIDs
Windows and all your applications are constructed from smaller building blocks, sometimes referred to as classes, extensions, or objects. I’ll
spare you a tirade on COM components, .NET architecture, and a
bunch of other developer jargon (sorry). Suffice it to say, the majority of
these building blocks are registered in the HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\CLSID
branch of your Registry, and are identified by a 32-digit (16-bit hex)
code called a Class ID, or CLSID. CLSIDs are formatted like this:
{AC0EEBCA-73FA-4EB3-87FF-96E58401FA1F}
Why is this important? It means that you can track down where a class
is referenced (in other words, where in Windows it’s used) as well as
where it’s registered, all by searching the Registry for the CLSID.
For instance, configuration data for the aforementioned class is located in:
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\CLSID\{AC0EEBCA-73FA-4EB3-87FF-96E58401FA1F}
If a component isn’t working, odds are you can fix the problem, or at
least help diagnose it, by fussing with the values in this key. Or, delete
the key altogether to effectively unregister the class with Windows. For
instance, to turn off Vista’s support for “compressed folders” (ZIP files
appearing as folders in Windows Explorer), you need to delete two such
CLSID branches, as described in Chapter 2.
Windows comes with a utility, regsvr32.exe, that you can
use to register or unregister DLL files manually. For instance,
you can repair a CLSID branch for a specific component by
opening a Command Prompt window (in administrator
mode; see Chapter 8) and typing regsvr32 "c:\program files\
my app\some file.dll" and pressing Enter. Or, to remove all
the entries used by a DLL, type regsvr32 /u "c:\program
files\my app\some file.dll" and press Enter. See “Playing
Video,” in Chapter 4, for an example of regsvr32 in action.
If a CLSID is found elsewhere (even within another key under HKEY_
CLASSES_ROOT\CLSID), it means that the program that owns the key is
using said component. Delete the reference, and the link is broken. See
Chapters 6 and 8 for some examples.
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Search and Replace Registry Data
The Registry Editor has no search-and-replace feature, seemingly with good
reason: a single poorly chosen replace operation could make Windows
inoperable. But there are times when you do need to replace all occurrences
of, say, a folder name like C:\Program Files\My Program with another folder
name like D:\My Folder. Depending on the number of occurrences, such an
operation could take hours.
1. Open Registry Agent.
2. Type text to search (e.g., c:\program files\acme), and click Find Now.
3. The results are shown in a list (Figure 3-7) with three columns. The left
column shows the location (key) where the text was found; you can
click it to open the Registry Editor at that location. The middle and
righthand columns show the value name and contents, respectively.
4. Choose the Replace tab.
Figure 3-7. Use Registry Agent for a faster Registry search, as well as for search-andreplace operations
Replacing a common word like Microsoft in your Registry is a
really bad idea. Don’t try it at home. I mean it. Ordinary
searching with Registry Agent is harmless, but the Replace feature can be as dangerous as it is handy if you’re not careful.
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Registry Agent (part of Creative Element Power Tools, available at http://
www.creativelement.com/powertools) not only gives you a better way to
search the Registry (search results are shown in a list, instead of one at a
time), but supports search-and-replace operations as well. Here’s how to
move an application from one drive to another without having to reinstall it:
5. Place a checkmark next to the found items you wish to replace. Use the
checkmark at the top of the list to check or uncheck all of them.
6. Type the new text—which will replace the old text in each selected item
in the search results—in the With field (e.g., d:\new acme).
You don’t have to replace the same text you searched. For
instance, you can search for c:\program files\acme, and then
do a search and replace within these results for anything you
like, such as acme by itself, or even portmeirion.
7. Choose which types of text you’d like to replace by checking or
unchecking the Keys, Values, and Data options. Note that the Keys
checkbox is grayed-out (disabled) by default for safety reasons; click
Help for instructions to lift this restriction.
The Replace tool has no “undo” feature, which means that if
you screw up something here, the only way to recover is to
restore your Registry from a backup. Want a shortcut? Use
the Export tab to create a Registry patch (described later in
this chapter) containing the selected values, which can be
used as a quick and dirty backup.
8. Click the Replace button to perform the search and replace.
Even if you don’t use the search-and-replace feature, Registry Agent is a pretty
slick searching tool, as it overcomes the annoying hunt-and-peck approach of
the Registry Editor’s Search feature and ends up being much faster, too.
Find the Registry Key That Does...
So, now you know how to change an item in the Registry, but how do you
find which item to change?
Sometimes it’s obvious. Say you want to reduce the time it takes to load
your favorite application, and it occurs to you that maybe you could disable
the program’s splash screen (the friendly logo you stare at while the program loads, which takes time to load itself). Sure enough, there’s a value
called ShowSplashScreen in the application’s Registry key in HKEY_Current_
User\Software. Set it to 1 (one) to turn it on, or 0 (zero) to turn it off.
Zero and one, with regard to Registry settings, typically
mean false and true (or off and on), respectively. However,
sometimes the value name negates this—if the value in the
example were instead called DontShowSplashScreen, then a 1
(one) would most likely turn off the feature.
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Other times it’s not so easy. You might see a long, seemingly meaningless
series of numbers and letters, or perhaps nothing recognizable at all.
Although there are no strict rules as to how values and keys are named or
how the data therein is arranged, there’s a trick you can use to uncover how
a particular setting—any setting—is stored in the Registry.
What’s the point? Once you find the Registry value(s) responsible for a particular setting, you can:
Find hidden settings. Not all application settings have tidy little checkboxes in a Preferences dialog window; some things can only be changed
in the Registry. By finding out where an application saves its settings,
you can uncover others nearby and even learn how they work.
Enter values not permitted by the software. For instance, say you’ve configured a virus scanner to scan your system once a week. You’d rather
have it perform a scan every 10 days, but the program only lets you
choose a multiple of 7. If you find the Registry value responsible, you
may be able to enter any arbitrary number.
Fix bugs in software. If an application won’t save a particular setting properly in the Registry, you can fix it by hand if you know where it’s stored.
Prevent changes to certain settings. Some programs—including Windows
Vista itself—have a habit of “forgetting” certain settings, reverting them
to their default values for no apparent reason. Once you know where
the setting is stored, you can change the permissions (more on that
later) to prevent further changes without your consent.
The idea is to take “snapshots” of your entire Registry before and after you
make a change in Windows. By comparing the two snapshots, you can easily see which Registry keys and values were affected. Here’s how you do it:
1. Close all applications except the one you wish to examine. Any unnecessary running applications—including those in the system tray/notification
area—could write to the Registry at any time, adding unexpected changes.
2. Open the Registry Editor, and select the HKEY_CURRENT_USER branch.
3. Select Export from the Registry menu. Type User1.reg for the filename,
select your desktop or another convenient location to put the file, and
click Save to export the entire branch to the file.
4. Next, select the HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE branch and repeat step 3, exporting it instead to Machine1.reg.
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Reproduce settings. By finding the Registry keys and values responsible for
one or more settings, you can consolidate them into a Registry patch file
(described later in this chapter), and then apply them to any number of
other PCs. This is particularly useful for network administrators and
software developers.
Although the Registry has five main branches, the others are
simply “mirrors,” or symbolic links of portions of HKEY_
CURRENT_USER and HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE. See “The Structure of
the Registry,” earlier in this chapter, for details.
5. Now make the change you want to track.
For instance, say you want to find the value responsible for showing
hidden files in Windows Explorer. In this case, you’d go to Control
Panel ➝ Folder Options, choose the View tab, and in the Advanced Settings list, turn on the Hidden Files and Folders option. Click OK when
you’re done.
6. Immediately—and before doing anything else—switch back to the Registry Editor, and re-export the HKEY_CURRENT_USER and HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE
branches into new files named User2.reg and Machine2.reg, respectively,
as described earlier in steps 2 and 3.
What you now have is a snapshot of the entire Registry taken before and
after the change was made. It’s important that the snapshots be taken
immediately before and after the change, so that other trivial settings,
such as changes in window positions, aren’t included with the changes
you care about.
7. All that needs to be done now is to distill the changed information into a
useful format. Windows comes with the command-line utility File Compare ( fc.exe), which quite handily highlights the differences between the
before and after files.
There are several Windows-based third-party alternatives
that are easier to use or offer more features than fc.exe, such
as UltraEdit (available at http://www.ultraedit.com); even
Microsoft Word can do text comparisons (although you’ll
need to remember to save the results as plain text).
Open a Command Prompt window (type cmd in the Start menu Search
box and press Enter), and then at the Command Prompt, use the cd
command (Chapter 9) to change to the directory containing the Registry patches. For instance, if you saved them to your desktop, type:
cd %userprofile%\desktop
8. To perform the comparison, type the following two lines:
fc /u user1.reg user2.reg > user.txt
fc /u machine1.reg machine2.reg > machine.txt
At this point, the File Compare utility scans the two pairs of files and
spits out only the differences between them. The > character redirects the
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output, which normally would be displayed right in the Command Prompt
window, into new text files: user.txt for the changes in HKEY_CURRENT_USER
and machine.txt for the changes in HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE.
9. Examine the results. The user.txt file should look something like this:
Comparing files user1.reg and USER2.REG
The Registry
***** user1.reg
[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\
Explorer\Advanced]
"Hidden"=dword:00000001
"ShowCompColor"=dword:00000000
***** USER2.REG
[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\
Explorer\Advanced]
"Hidden"=dword:00000002
"ShowCompColor"=dword:00000000
*****
From this example listing, you can see that the only applicable change
was the Hidden value, located deep in the HKEY_CURRENT_USER branch.
(There may be some other entries, but if you inspect them, you’ll find
that they relate only to MRU lists from RegEdit and can be ignored.)*
Note that for the particular setting explained in step 5, no changes were
recorded in the HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE branch, so machine.txt ends up with
only the message, "FC: No differences encountered". This means that
the changes were made only to keys in the HKEY_CURRENT_USER branch.
10. The lines immediately preceding and following the line that changed
are also included by FC as an aid in locating the lines in the source files.
As luck would have it, one of the surrounding lines in this example happens to be the section header (in brackets), which specifies the full path
of the Registry key in which the value is located.
In this case, the value that changed was located in HKEY_
CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\.
If you take a peek in that key, you’ll find that it contains
other settings, some of which aren’t included in the Folder
Options dialog box. Experiment with some of the more
interesting-sounding values, such as CascadePrinters and
ShowSuperHidden. Or, search the Web for the value name to
see what others have discovered about it.
* MRU stands for Most Recently Used. Windows stores the most recent filenames typed into file
dialog boxes; from this example, you’ll notice several references to the filenames you used to save
the Registry snapshots.
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If you don’t see the line in square brackets, you’ll have to do a little more
reconnaissance. To find out where the value is located, open one of the
source files (User1.reg, User2.reg, Machine1.reg, or Machine2.reg) and
use your text editor’s Search tool to find the line highlighted in step 9.
For this example, you’d search User2.reg for "Hidden"=dword:00000002
and then make note of the line enclosed in square brackets ([...]) most
immediately above the changed line. This represents the key containing
the Hidden value.
Sometimes, changing a setting results in a Registry value (or
key) being created or deleted, which could mean an entire section may be present in only one of the two snapshots. Depending on the change, you may have to do a little digging, or
perhaps try the document comparison feature in your favorite
word processor for an easier-to-use comparison summary.
11. This last step is optional. If you want to create a Registry patch that activates the Registry change, you can either convert FC’s output to the correct format (described here), or return to Registry Editor and export the
appropriate key, as described in “Export and Import Data with Registry
Patches,” later in this chapter).
Because the FC output is originally derived from Registry patches, it’s
already close to the correct format. Start by removing all of the lines
from user.txt, except the second version of the changed line—this would
be the value in its after setting, which presumably is the goal. You’ll end
up with something like this:
"Hidden"=dword:00000002
Next, paste in the key (in brackets) immediately above the value. (In the
case of our example, it was part of the FC output and can simply be left
in.) You should end up with text that looks like this:
[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\
Explorer\Advanced]
"Hidden"=dword:00000002
Finally, add the text Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00 followed by a
blank line at the beginning of the file, like this:
Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00
[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\
Explorer\Advanced]
"Hidden"=dword:00000002
When you’re done, save this as a new file with the .reg filename extension (e.g., User-final.reg).
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If the settings you’ve changed also resulted in changes in the
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE branch, simply repeat this step for the
machine.txt file as well. You can then consolidate both files
into one, making sure you have only one instance of the
Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00 line.
For some settings (such as the one in this example), you may want to make
two patches: one to turn it on, and one to turn it off. Simply double-click the
patch corresponding to the setting you desire.
See Chapter 9 for a way to use Windows Script Host to automate changes to
the Registry without using Registry patches.
Create an Interface for a Registry Setting
The whole point of messing around in the Registry is to view and modify
settings that are otherwise inaccessible in Explorer, Control Panel, or the
hundreds of dialog boxes scattered throughout the operating system. However, there is a way to patch into the interface and add checkboxes and radio
buttons that are linked to whatever Registry settings you want.
Why would you want to do this? Perhaps there’s a Registry setting you
change frequently, or maybe you administer a building full of PCs and
there’s a feature you want to expose to your users without having them mess
around with the Registry themselves.
Start by going to Control Panel ➝ Folder Options ➝ View menu. At first
glance, the Advanced settings list in this dialog box is presented in a somewhat awkward format, apparently to accommodate the large number of
options. However, the less-than-ideal presentation is actually designed to
allow customization, permitting Microsoft (or you) to easily add or remove
items from the list. See Figure 3-8 for an example of a customized version of
this window.
You’ve probably guessed that Microsoft didn’t make this list of options customizable for you. Rather, it was designed to accommodate different settings for different versions of Windows (the actual options present on your
PC, for instance, depend on your edition of Vista). But that doesn’t mean
you can’t change it around to suit your needs.
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There are some caveats to this approach, mostly in that the File Compare
utility will often pull out more differences than are relevant to the change
you wish to make. It’s important to look closely at each key in the resulting
Registry patch to see whether it’s really applicable and necessary.
Figure 3-8. The Advanced Folder Options dialog box is a flexible, customizable list
of Registry settings
The idea is that you link up a checkbox or radio button to a value—any
value you choose—in your Registry. This would, for example, allow you to
make certain Registry changes accessible to yourself or others (such as users
of other PCs you administer), reducing the need for them to mess around in
the Registry. Or, if you’re a software developer, you can add your own program’s options to this window. Or, maybe you just want easier access to a
hidden Microsoft setting you find yourself changing often.
The format is actually quite remarkable, because you don’t have to be a programmer to utilize this feature. You can add new options to a certain portion of the Registry and then tie those options to values you choose
anywhere else in the Registry. The downside is that it’s a little cumbersome
to type it all out, and the options are rather limited. Here’s how you do it:
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1. Open the Registry Editor.
2. Expand
the branches to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Microsoft\
Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\Advanced\Folder.
Take a look at the keys inside of the Folder key. The structure of the
hierarchy in the Folder Options window is reproduced here in the Registry, although the list items will appear in a different order than their
corresponding Registry entries. This is because the captions in the
Folder Options list aren’t necessarily the same as the names of the corresponding Registry keys here, yet both collections are sorted alphabetically. For example, the Remember each folder’s view settings option is
represented by the ClassicViewState key in the Registry.
4. At this point, you can remove any unwanted entries by deleting the corresponding keys from this branch; the Text value in each key should be
enough to explain what each key is for.
5. To add a new item, start by simply creating a new subkey in the
Advanced key. Name the key anything you want, as long as it doesn’t
conflict with a existing key name. Bonus points for a nice, descriptive
key name.
Some settings are divided into groups, such as Hidden files
and folders, which contains two radio buttons. You can create a new group using the existing Hidden key as a template.
Then, add new entries to your group by placing subkeys
inside your new group key.
6. The values inside each key determine the properties of the corresponding setting. Feel free to fish around the existing keys for examples.
Start by adding a new string value to your key named Text, and then
double-click it to enter the caption of the new entry. When you’re done,
add another string value named Type, and type either group, checkbox, or
radio as the value’s contents. These two values, plus the others that
determine how your new setting looks in the Folder Options window,
are explained in Table 3-2.
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3. Take this opportunity to back up the entire branch by highlighting the
Advanced key and selecting Export from the File menu. This way, you’ll
be able to easily restore the defaults without having to reinstall Windows.
Table 3-2. Visual properties of Folder Options items
a
Value name
Datatype
Description of value contents
Type
String
This can be set to either group, checkbox, or radio, representing a
folder, checkbox, or radio button, respectively. Checkboxes are square
options and can be either on or off. Radio buttons are round options that
are linked to other radio buttons in the same folder, in that only one at a
time can be selected (you can have multiple groups of radio buttons).
And folders, of course, are used to organize the various other options.
This parameter is required by all items.
Text
String
This is the actual caption of the option as it will appear in the dialog box.
This can be as long as you want (better too descriptive than too vague),
but the paradigm dictates that only the first word be capitalized and
that there be no period. This parameter is required by all items.
Bitmap
String
This specifies the icon, used for folder items only. If omitted, it’s a rather
ugly bent arrow. The syntaxa is filename,index, where filename
is the full path and filename of the file containing the icon, and index
is the icon number (starting with zero), if the file contains more than
one icon. To specify the familiar yellow folder, type %SystemRoot%\
system32\Shell32.dll,4 here. This parameter is optional for all
folders, and has no effect on checkboxes and radio buttons.
HelpID
String
This is the filename and optionally the help context ID, pointing to the
documentation for this item. If the user selects the item and presses the
F1 key, this specifies the help note that will appear. The syntax is
filename#id, where filename is the name of a .hlp or .chm file,
and id is the numeric help context id (commonly used by programmers)
of the topic you want to display. Omit id to simply show the index page
of the specified help file. This parameter is optional.
The Bitmap value uses the same syntax as the DefaultIcon property for file types, as documented in “File Type Associations,” later in this chapter.
7. Next, add values—explained in Table 3-3—to specify what happens
when a specific item is turned on or off in the Folder Options window. For
radio and checkbox items, you’ll need the following values: HKey-Root,
RegPath, ValueName, and CheckedValue. (This step isn’t necessary if your
item is a group.)
Table 3-3. Registry-related properties of Folder Options items
Value name
Datatype
Description of value contents
HKeyRoot
DWORD
This is an eight-digit number representing the root of the Registry
path containing the target Registry setting. Use the hexadecimal
number 80000000 for HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT, 80000001 for
HKEY_CURRENT_USER, 80000002 for HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE,
80000003 for HKEY_USERS, or 80000005 for HKEY_CURRENT_
CONFIG. For some reason, it must be separated from the rest of the
Registry path, specified in RegPath, discussed next. This parameter
is required for all checkbox and radio items.
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Table 3-3. Registry-related properties of Folder Options items (continued)
Value name
Datatype
Description of value contents
RegPath
String
This is the path specifying the location of the target Registry setting, not
including the root (see HKeyRoot, earlier). For example, for HKEY_
CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\
CurrentVersion, you would only enter Software\Microsoft\
Windows\CurrentVersion here. This parameter is required for all
checkbox and radio items.
String
This is the name of the target Registry value. This value is where the setting data is stored when the option is turned on or off in the Folder
Options window. The key containing said value is specified by the
RegPath and HKeyRoot parameters, listed earlier. This parameter is
required by all checkbox and radio items.
CheckedValue
Should match target value datatype
This holds the data to be stored in the target Registry value (specified by
the RegPath and ValueName parameters earlier), when said option
is turned on. If you’re configuring an option to be used on both Windows
9x/Me and Windows Vista/2000 systems, use both the
CheckedValueW95 and CheckedValueNT parameters instead of
this value. This parameter is otherwise required by all checkbox and
radio items.
CheckedValueW95
Should match target value datatype
Use this instead of CheckedValue, above, if you’re configuring an
option to be used on both Windows 9x/Me and Windows Vista/2000
systems. This value contains the data that will be applied if the system is
running Windows 9x/Me. Used in conjunction with
CheckedValueNT, discussed next.
CheckedValueNT
Should match target value datatype
Use this instead of CheckedValue, discussed earlier, if you’re configuring an option to be used on both Windows 9x/Me and Windows Vista/
2000 systems. This value contains the data that will be applied if the system is running Windows Vista, 2000, or NT. Used in conjunction with
CheckedValueW95, later.
UnChecked
Value
Should match target value datatype
This holds the data to be stored in the target Registry value, when said
option is turned off. This value is optional; if omitted, it is assumed to be
0.
DefaultValue
Should match target value datatype
This is the default value, used only if the target Registry value does not
already exist. As soon as the option in the Folder Options window is
turned on or off at least once, this parameter is ignored, and Windows
instead reads the state of the target value, comparing it to
CheckedValue and UnCheckedValue to determine if the option
should appear checked or unchecked. This value is optional; if omitted, it
is assumed to be 0.
The
value
type
(String,
Binary,
DWORD)
of
the
CheckedValue, UnCheckedValue, and DefaultValue parameters
all depends on what the target value requires. For example, if
the target value you’re changing is a DWORD value, then all
three of these parameters must also be DWORD values.
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ValueName
8. After you’ve created keys and entered the appropriate property values,
your Registry should look something like Figure 3-9, and the resulting
Folder Options dialog box should look like Figure 3-8, shown earlier. If
Folder Options is open, you’ll have to close it and reopen it for the
changes to take effect.
If you add a setting and it doesn’t show up in the Folder
Options window (after closing and reopening it), most likely
one or more required values are missing.
9. Close the Registry Editor when you’re finished.
Figure 3-9. Settings that appear in the Advanced Folder Options list are configured
in the Registry
When the Folder Options dialog box is first displayed, the current data
stored in each target value is compared with the corresponding CheckedValue
and UnCheckedValue, and the option in the Advanced settings list is set
accordingly. In other words, if you did everything right, each option in
Advanced settings should reflect its own current state. Change a setting and
click OK, and the corresponding options are written to the Registry.
To reproduce a setting elsewhere in the Windows interface or the interface
of another application, you’ll first need to find the respective Registry setting as described in “Find the Registry Key That Does...,” earlier in this
chapter.
Export and Import Data with Registry Patches
Typing in Registry data gets awfully tedious, particularly when the N key
breaks on your keyboard. Thankfully, it’s not the only way to add keys and
values to the Registry.
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A Registry patch is a plain-text file with the .reg filename extension that contains one or more Registry keys or values. Double-click on a .reg file, and
Windows runs the Registry Editor, which “applies” the patch to the Registry, meaning that its contents are merged with the contents of the Registry.
Patch files are especially handy for backing up small portions of the Registry, distributing Registry settings to other PCs, and duplicating keys.
Or, perhaps you’ve spent the last six months gradually customizing your file
types (covered later in this chapter), only to find that a newly installed application or a Windows upgrade erased all your hard work and reset all your
context menus. All you need to do is to make a Registry patch containing all
your saved file types, and then reapply it should the need arise.
Create a Registry patch
1. Open the Registry Editor, and select a branch you wish to export.
The branch can be anywhere from one of the top-level
branches to a branch a dozen layers deep. Registry patches
include not only the branch you select, but all of the values
and subkeys in the branch. Don’t select anything more than
what you absolutely need.
2. From the File menu, select Export, type a filename and choose a destination folder, and click OK. All of the values and subkeys in the selected
branch will then be stored in the patch file. Make sure the filename of
the new Registry patch has the .reg extension.
Clearly, there’s not much to making Registry patches with the Registry Editor. But it gets a little more interesting when you modify them, or even create them from scratch to automate Registry changes.
Edit a Registry patch
Since a Registry patch is just a plain-text file, you can edit it with any decent
plain-text editor, or lacking that, Notepad (notepad.exe). The contents of the
Registry patch will look something like the text shown in Example 3-1.
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For example, say you spend an hour or so customizing the toolbars in a particular application used by many employees in your office. Since most programs store their toolbar settings in the Registry, you can use a Registry
patch to not only back up the completed toolbar setup—and thus save an
hour of reconfiguring should your PC subsequently burst into flames—but
to quickly copy the toolbar to all the other PCs in your office.
Example 3-1. Contents of a Registry patch created from HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.txt
Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.txt]
@="txtfile"
"PerceivedType"="text"
"Content Type"="text/plain"
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.txt\ShellNew]
"ItemName"="@%SystemRoot%\\system32\\notepad.exe,-470"
"NullFile"=""
The first line, Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00, tells Windows that this
file is a valid Registry patch; don’t remove this line. The rest of the Registry
patch is a series of key names and values.
Backward Compatibility
Registry patches created in Windows 95, 98, or Me can be imported into the
Windows Vista Registry without a problem (that is, not taking into account
the screwy settings contained therein).
However, the same is not true the other way around. Patch files made in Windows Vista, XP, 2003, and 2000 are encoded with the Unicode character set,
and as you’ve seen, bear a header indicating the 5.0 version number that will
choke the older Registry Editor. To use a Vista-created .reg file in Windows
9x/Me, you’ll need to deal with both of these issues.
First, replace the Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00 header line with
REGEDIT4. Whew, that was hard.
Next, to convert the Unicode .reg file into an ASCII-encoded file, those earlier
versions of Windows can understand, open the file in Notepad. Then, from
the Notepad’s File menu, select Save As and choose a new filename, and from
the little Encoding drop-down listbox at the bottom of the window, select
ANSI. Click Save, and your patch is now backward-compatible.
The key names appear in brackets ([...]) and specify the full path of the
key, thus indicating where the values that follow are to be stored. On each
subsequent line until the next key section begins, the name of a value is
given first (in quotation marks), followed by an equals sign, and then the
data stored in the value (also in quotation marks). A value name of @ tells
the Registry Editor to place the value data in the (Default) value (as shown
in the fourth line of the example).
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You can go ahead and make changes to anything in the Registry patch file as
long as you keep the format intact. Of course, those changes won’t take
effect in the Registry until the Registry patch is merged back into the Registry, a process described in the next section.
So, why would you want to edit a Registry patch file? Modifying a large
number of Registry values often turns out to be much easier with a text editor than with the Registry Editor, since you don’t have to open—and then
close—each individual value.
The Registry
It may be tempting to perform a quick search and replace in
the text editor, and then apply your changes back to the Registry. But be careful, as the effect may not be what you
expected. If you replace any text in the name of a value (to
the left of the equals sign) or even the name of a key (the
lines in brackets), Registry Editor will create new values and
keys with those names when you apply the patch, leaving the
old values and keys intact. A better choice is to use a tool like
Registry Agent (see “Search and Replace Registry Data,” earlier in this chapter).
There’s no requirement that the keys in a Registry patch file need to have
lived next to one another in the Registry, or that they be in any particular
order. This means you can combine several separate patch files into one,
and use it to restore any number of keys in one step. All it takes is a little
copy and paste between side-by-side Notepad windows. The only thing
you need to do, besides making sure all the keys and values remain intact,
is to remove any extraneous Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00 header
lines.
If you’re creating a Registry patch to be used on other PCs, make sure you
fix any references to absolute pathnames before you distribute the file. If,
for example, your patch file references D:\Windows\notepad.exe, it’ll
cause a problem on any PC where notepad.exe is located in C:\Windows\.
The best solution is to use expandable string values, as described earlier
in this chapter, along with the appropriate system variables, like this:
%SystemRoot%\notepad.exe. Now, since expandable string values are
stored like Binary values in Registry patch files, such an entry would look
like this:
"Open"=hex(2):26,00,53,00,79,00,73,00,74,00,65,00,6d,00,52,00,6f,00,6f,\
00,74,00,25,00,5c,00,6e,00,6f,00,74,00,65,00,70,00,61,00,64,00,2e,00,65,00,\
78,00,65,00,00,00
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Now, as you may’ve guessed, it’s considerably easier to edit expandable
string (and binary) values in the Registry Editor than in any text editor, so
you’ll probably want to make such corrections before you export the key to
a patch file. If you need to add a binary or expandable string value to a Registry patch file you’ve already started editing, though, all you have to do is
return to the Registry Editor, create a temporary key somewhere, and then
create your new value. When you’re done, just export the key to a new file,
delete the key from the Registry, and then copy and paste the value to your
other Registry patch file.
Delete keys and values from a Registry patch
Although the Registry Editor won’t ever create a patch that deletes Registry
keys or values, it’s easy enough to make one by hand. To delete a key with a
Registry Patch, place a minus sign before the key name, like this:
-[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel\don't load]
This patch, when applied, deletes the specified key and all of its values, as
well as any subkeys. To delete a single value from a key, place a minus sign
after the equals sign, like this:
[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel\don't load]
"desk.cpl"=-
Of course, these tricks only work if you have sufficient permission to
delete those keys. See “Prevent Changes to a Registry Key,” later in this
chapter, for more information.
Apply a Registry patch
To copy the stuff from a Registry patch file back into your Registry, you
need to apply it. The easiest way is to double-click the file (it doesn’t matter
if the Registry Editor is running or not).
If you see a UAC prompt at this point, click Continue. Then answer Yes
when asked whether you’re sure you want to add the information in the .reg
file to the Registry, and finally, click OK when you see the “Information in
MyPatch.reg has been successfully entered into the Registry” message. (You
can also apply a patch from within the Registry Editor: from the File menu,
select Import, select the patch file to apply, and click OK.)
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To apply a Registry patch without any other warning messages (except for the UAC prompt; see Chapter 8 to get rid
of that), you need to use the command line. Either from an
open Command Prompt window or from Start ➝ Run, type
the following:
regedit /s c:\folder\mypatch.reg
where c:\folder\mypatch.reg is the full path and filename of
the patch file to import. Or, if you want to get rid of the confirmation messages when you double-click a .reg file, add the
/s switch (as shown here) to the .reg file type, as described
later in this chapter.
When you apply a Registry patch, you merge the keys and values stored in a
patch file with those in the Registry. Any keys and values in the applied
patch that don’t already exist will be created. If a key or value already exists,
only its contents will be changed. It’s important to understand that if a key
you’re updating already contains one or more values, those values will be left
intact if they’re not explicitly modified or deleted by the patch.
See Chapter 9 for another way to automate changes to the
Registry from files.
Prevent Changes to a Registry Key
Security has always been one of Microsoft’s favorite marketing buzzwords,
and never more so than when Windows Vista was introduced. But as it
turns out, Vista’s security features are quite a bit more useful for protecting
your PC from itself than from any alleged intruders.
The permissions system covered in Chapter 8 doesn’t just protect files and folders, it restricts who can read and modify Registry entries. This feature is tremendously important, yet most people don’t even know it’s there. It means
you can lock a Registry key to prevent employees from installing software on a
company PC, or prevent kids from disabling parental controls on a family PC.
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The Registry
If the Registry Editor is already open and one of the keys modified by a
patch that was just applied is currently open, RegEdit should refresh the display automatically to reflect the changes. If it doesn’t, press the F5 key or go
to View ➝ Refresh.
Permissions also let you lock file type associations (covered later in this chapter), preventing other applications from changing them. And by locking certain other keys, you can help protect your PC from viruses and spyware.
Here’s how you do it:
1. Open the Registry Editor, and navigate to the key you want to protect.
You can’t protect individual values, but rather only the keys
that contain them. This means that if you lock a key to protect one of its values, none of its values can be modified. You
can, however, choose whether or not your changes are made
to the subkeys of the selected key.
2. Right-click the key, and select Permissions. For details on how to use
this window, see Chapter 8.
3. Click Advanced, and then click Add.
If the Add button is disabled (grayed out), you’ll have to take
ownership of the key, close the Permissions window, and
then reopen it before you can make any changes to the permissions of this object. See Chapter 8 for details.
4. In the Enter the object names to select field, type Everyone, and then
click OK. (The “Everyone” user encompasses all user accounts, including those used by Windows processes and individual applications when
they access the Registry.)
5. In the next window, “Permission Entry for...”, click the checkbox in
the Deny column, next to the actions you want to prohibit, as in
Figure 3-10. See below for examples.
6. When you’re done, click OK in each of the three open dialog windows.
The change will take effect immediately.
Now, you may be tempted to remove Allow permissions for a particular
user (or even all users), rather than add the Deny entry shown here. The
problem is that doing so wouldn’t prevent an application or Windows from
taking ownership or adding the necessary permissions and breaking your
lock. Furthermore, it would make it much more difficult to restore the old
permissions should you need to remove the lock; using this procedure, all
you need to do is remove the Deny rule and you’re done.
This works because Windows gives Deny rules priority over Allow rules,
which means you can lock a key even if there’s another Allow rule that
expressly gives a user permission to modify the item.
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The Registry
Figure 3-10. Lock a Registry key to prevent applications or Windows from modifying it
So, which keys do you lock, and which actions do you forbid? Here are
some examples:
Make a read-only key. To lock a value yet still allow applications and Windows to read it, place a Deny checkbox next to Set Value, Delete, and
Write Owner, as in Figure 3-10.
Create a complete lock-out. To prevent all applications from reading, modifying, or deleting a value, place a Deny checkbox next to Full Control.
Keep away ShellNew. To prevent applications from making new keys
under the selected key, place a Deny checkbox next to Create Subkey.
For instance, you can do this to file type keys (explained later in this
chapter) to prevent applications from adding themselves to Windows
Explorer’s New list.
Enforce security policies. To prevent another user from modifying a security policy (such as those covered in Chapter 8), use the procedure in
“Find the Registry Key That Does...,” earlier in this chapter, to locate
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the corresponding key in the Registry. Then, instead of adding a Deny
rule to the key as described above, remove any permissions that allow
anyone other than an administrator to delete, modify, or add subkeys to
the key. Make sure that there’s still at least one rule for the Administrators group (or at least your own administrator-level account) that
affords Full Control.
Lock file types. The File Type Doctor utility mentioned in “File Type Associations,” later in this chapter, has a feature that uses permissions to
lock file types, thus preventing applications from “stealing” them.
See Chapter 8 for more information on the various security systems in Windows Vista.
Back Up the Registry
In a way, the Windows Registry is a weak link in the operating system’s stability and robustness. It’s remarkably easy to damage, but very difficult to
repair. And unless you go to the trouble of making your own backup copy,
it’s not necessarily easy to replace it if it’s damaged (unlike, say, DLLs, which
can be pulled right off the Vista CD). A broken Registry—either due to physical corruption or errant data—might cause Windows to behave eratically
(or more so than usual) or it may prevent Windows from starting at all.
The System Protection feature (also known as System
Restore, and discussed further in Chapter 6) is found in
Control Panel ➝ System ➝ Advanced system settings ➝
System Protection tab. Windows automatically creates a
restore point once a day, plus each time you install an application, device driver, or any update from Windows Update.
Restore points contain essential Windows system files and
Registry settings, although it’s not clear how much of the
Registry is backed up, nor is it possible to restore all or part
of the Registry alone.
So, what’s the big problem? Why not just zip up the Registry files or copy
them to a CD? The files that contain your Registry data (called hives) are
constantly being read from and written to, so Windows locks them to
ensure they can’t be modified, deleted, or even read directly.*
* Actually, there is a way around this. You can copy the hive file containing HKEY_CURRENT_USER if
you log out and log in as a different user. And you can access all of the hive files if you have a dualboot setup (see Chapter 1) and you start one of the other operating systems installed on your PC.
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This means you have to use a procedure like the following if you want a
backup you can create and restore at will. You may want to do this, for
instance, just before you install a new program or device driver.
1. Open Registry Editor, and collapse all the branches so only the five
main root keys are showing.
2. Highlight HKEY_CURRENT_USER.
3. From the File menu, select Export.
4. From the Save as type list, choose Registry Hive Files (*.*).
6. Choose a folder to store the backup, and click Save.
7. Next, highlight HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE, and repeat steps 3–6. Make sure to
choose a different filename for this branch (e.g., hkey_local_machine.hive).
8. To restore either or both of these backups, and replace the current Registry with the data in your backup hive files, select Import from the Registry
Editor’s File menu. Select Registry Hive Files (*.*) from the unlabeled
listbox next to the File name field, select the .hive file to import, and
click Open.
There are two things worth noting about this backup procedure. First, it
makes use of Registry hive files, which are binary files, and the same type of
file Windows uses to store the Registry it uses day-to-day. If you were to
instead export ordinary Registry patch files—which is what you’d get if
Registration Files (*.reg) was selected in step 4—then you’d end up with
files that couldn’t be easily restored back into the Registry. This is because
the Registry Editor only merges patch files with existing Registry data, which
can leave errant data intact, as described in “Export and Import Data with
Registry Patches,” earlier in this chapter. When the Registry Editor imports
hive files, however, it deletes the existing keys from the Registry before
bringing in the new (backed-up) data.
Registry patches can be handy for backing up individual
keys, as explained in the upcoming sidebar, “The Local
Backup.”
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The Registry
5. Type a filename, and give it the .hive filename extension (e.g., hkey_
current_user.hive). RegEdit won’t do this for you, nor will Windows recognize the .hive extension by default, but it will make the files much easier for you to identify than if they have no extension, which is the
default. See “File Type Associations,” later in this chapter, to see how to
properly register a new file type.
The Local Backup
The easiest type of Registry backup to make is the local backup, akin to the
local anesthetic. Rather than backing up the entire Registry, you simply back
up the portion you’ll be working on. If you screw up, you can quickly and easily restore the affected keys without touching anything else.
Say you want to make some changes to the key, HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\
Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run, which happens to be responsible for
running programs when Windows starts. Just open the Registry Editor, navigate to this key, and select File ➝ Export. Type a filename and save the Registry patch file on your Desktop. (See “Export and Import Data with Registry
Patches,” earlier in this chapter, for more information on this feature.)
Make a mistake and want to restore the backup? Just delete the key(s) you
changed, and double-click the Registry patch to load it back in.
Of course, Registry patch files can be hard to keep track of, particularly if you
change a setting and only discover two weeks later that it’s caused a problem.
In this case, you can make an easy-to-find backup right in the Registry.
Before you make any changes to the Registry, make a patch file as just described.
Then, rename the key in which you’ll be working by adding .backup to the end
of the key name. For instance, if you want to make a change to:
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run
Highlight the Run key, press the F2 key (or right-click and select Rename),
and change the name to:
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run.backup
Then, immediately reimport the Registry patch you just made, and delete the
.reg patch file. You’ll end up with two identical keys right next to each other:
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run.backup
At this point, you can go ahead and mess with the Run key to your heart’s content, and even use the nearby Run.backup key as a handy reference. If you ever
need to restore your backup—either today or six months from now—just
delete the Run key and then rename Run.backup to Run.
See Chapter 2 for a quick way to make a local backup of files you’re working on.
Second, notice that only HKEY_CURRENT_USER and HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE are
backed up here, leaving HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT, HKEY_USERS, and HKEY_CURRENT_
CONFIG seemingly unprotected. This is done because the data in HKEY_
CLASSES_ROOT and HKEY_USERS is duplicated in the first two root keys (HKLM
and HKCU, respectively) and HKEY_CURRENT_CONFIG is dynamically generated
and not stored on the hard disk at all. See “The Structure of the Registry,”
earlier in this chapter, for details.
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Now, other than saving time by not exporting more than you have to, why is
it important to know how Windows stores the Registry data? Because if you
use a slightly more advanced approach when you back up the Registry,
you’ll have a backup you can restore even if Windows won’t start. Here’s
how you do it:
1. Open a plain-text editor (e.g., Notepad).
2. Type the following into a blank document:
exist
exist
exist
exist
exist
exist
C:\Backups\COMPONENTS.OLD del C:\Backups\COMPONENTS.OLD
C:\Backups\SAM.OLD del C:\Backups\SAM.OLD
C:\Backups\SECURITY.OLD del C:\Backups\SECURITY.OLD
C:\Backups\SOFTWARE.OLD del C:\Backups\SOFTWARE.OLD
C:\Backups\SYSTEM.OLD del C:\Backups\SYSTEM.OLD
C:\Backups\NTUSER.OLD del C:\Backups\NTUSER.OLD
ren
ren
ren
ren
ren
ren
C:\Backups\COMPONENTS COMPONENTS.OLD
C:\Backups\SAM SAM.OLD
C:\Backups\SECURITY SECURITY.OLD
C:\Backups\SOFTWARE SOFTWARE.OLD
C:\Backups\SYSTEM SYSTEM.OLD
C:\Backups\NTUSER.DAT NTUSER.OLD
REG
REG
REG
REG
REG
REG
SAVE
SAVE
SAVE
SAVE
SAVE
SAVE
The Registry
if
if
if
if
if
if
HKLM\COMPONENTS C:\Backups\COMPONENTS
HKLM\SAM C:\Backups\SAM
HKLM\SECURITY C:\Backups\SECURITY
HKLM\SOFTWARE C:\Backups\SOFTWARE
HKLM\SYSTEM C:\Backups\SYSTEM
HKCU C:\Backups\NTUSER.DAT
3. Save the file somewhere convenient, such as your desktop, and give it
the .bat filename extension (e.g., back up registry.bat).
4. Open Windows Explorer, open the Computer branch, and select drive
C:. Create a new folder in C:\ named Backups. If you want to store the
backup hive files in a different location, replace all 24 instances of C:\
Backups in the listing in step 2 with the full path of your backup folder.
5. To run the backup, just right-click the back up registry.bat file and select
Run as administrator. (See Chapter 8 for an explanation of why you
can’t just double-click the file to run it.)
To run this backup automatically every time you start Windows, create a shortcut to the back up registry.bat file in your
Startup folder in your Start menu. Or, if you typically hibernate your PC instead of shutting down, use the Scheduled
Tasks feature (Chapter 9) to schedule the backup to run at
regular intervals, say, once every three days.
6. At this point, you can be extra compulsive and copy the backed-up hive
files to a CD or network drive for safekeeping.
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So, what’s different about this second procedure? For one, it’s automated,
using the little-known REG.exe command-line Registry tool instead of the
Registry Editor to create the hive files. (To learn more about REG.exe, open
a Command Prompt window, type reg /? and press Enter.) Also, it automatically archives the last backup, thus maintaining two sets of backup files at
all times, a feat accomplished by some simple batch-file commands (see
Chapter 9 for more on batch files).
Most importantly, though, it creates five separate hive files from the HKEY_
LOCAL_MACHINE branch—one for each sub-branch except HARDWARE, which is
dynamically generated—instead of just one. As a result, the backup files
you’ll end up with are the same as those Windows normally uses to store the
Registry on your hard disk.
Windows stores the active hive files—those for HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE, at least—
in the \Windows\System32\Config folder. The exception is the HKEY_CURRENT_
USER branch, stored in the NTUSER.DAT file located in the user’s home
directory (usually \Users\{username}). See Chapter 8 for more on user accounts.
In your snooping, you might discover the \Windows\
System32\config\RegBack folder. Check the dates of the files
in the RegBack folder, and sure enough, you’ll see that
they’re recent—perhaps with yesterday’s or today’s date—
backups of your HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE hive files.
Although Vista indeed regularly creates these backups,
they’re neither complete (the HKEY_CURRENT_USER branch isn’t
included) nor as useful as a backup you make yourself. For
instance, a problem that prevents Windows from loading is
likely to have made its way to the automatic backups, but
not the manual backup you made three days ago, just before
you installed an application.
All of this means that you can restore your Registry from the backup in a
variety of ways. Of course, you can always use File ➝ Import in Registry
Editor, as described earlier in this section, but that only works if Windows is
running. If Windows won’t start, though, here’s how to restore your Registry from the six hive backups:
1. Insert your Windows Vista setup disc in your drive, and start your PC.
See Chapter 1 if your PC doesn’t boot off your CD, or if you
only have a “recovery disc” provided by your PC manufacturer.
2. Click Next on the first Install Windows screen, and then click Repair
your computer on the second page.
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3. On the System Recovery Options window, select Microsoft Windows
Vista in the list and then click Next.
4. Click Command Prompt.
5. In the Command Prompt window that appears, type the following commands to rebuild your Registry from your hive files:
REG
REG
REG
REG
REG
REG
RESTORE
RESTORE
RESTORE
RESTORE
RESTORE
RESTORE
HKLM\COMPONENTS C:\Backups\COMPONENTS
HKLM\SAM C:\Backups\SAM
HKLM\SECURITY C:\Backups\SECURITY
HKLM\SOFTWARE C:\Backups\SOFTWARE
HKLM\SYSTEM C:\Backups\SYSTEM
HKCU C:\Backups\NTUSER.DAT
The Registry
You can omit one or more of these lines if you only want to
restore part of the Registry.
6. When you’re done, pop out your Vista setup disc and restart your PC.
With any luck, Windows should start normally. If it doesn’t, either your
most recent backup is defective, or the problem lies elsewhere. If you suspect that an older backup may work where the newer one failed, add the .OLD
filename extension to each filename in step 5 above, like this:
REG RESTORE HKLM\COMPONENTS C:\Backups\COMPONENTS.OLD
If Windows still won’t start at this point, try reinstalling Windows (see
Chapter 1).
Now, there’s a chance that the REG.exe tool won’t work, which might happen
if your Registry is sufficiently corrupted or if the REG.exe file itself is damaged.
In this case, try replacing the active hive files with your backups, like this:
1. Open the Command Prompt as instructed in steps 1–4 above.
2. Type these commands to copy the files:
copy
copy
copy
copy
copy
copy
C:\Backups\COMPONENTS C:\Windows\System32\Config
C:\Backups\SAM C:\Windows\System32\Config
C:\Backups\SECURITY C:\Windows\System32\Config
C:\Backups\SOFTWARE C:\Windows\System32\Config
C:\Backups\SYSTEM C:\Windows\System32\Config
C:\Backups\NTUSER.DAT C:\Users\your_user_folder
where your_user_folder (on the last line) is the name of your user
folder, which may or may not be the same as your user name. If you
don’t know the folder name, type dir c:\users to list all the user folders
on your PC. If your user folder name has spaces in it, add quotation
marks, like this:
copy C:\Backups\NTUSER.DAT "C:\Users\Phillip J. Fry"
3. When you’re done, pop out your Vista setup disc and restart your PC.
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See Chapter 6 for more information on backup software that copies your full
Registry along with all of your system files. And check out the “How Else
Windows Backs Up the Registry” sidebar, next, for some other features in
Windows Vista.
How Else Windows Backs Up the Registry
The aforementioned automatic hive file backups stored in the \Windows\
System32\config\RegBack folder represent just one of several fail-safe systems
built in to Windows Vista.
There’s also a way to undo a bad hardware driver installation without backing up or restoring the Registry at all. Just open Device Manager, right-click
the cranky device, select Properties, choose the Driver tab, and click Roll
Back Driver. If that doesn’t work, right-click the device and select Uninstall.
When prompted, confirm that you want to delete the driver files. Then, disconnect and reconnect the device, or restart Windows if reconnecting isn’t
practical.
You can remove petulant software with the Programs and Features tool in
Control Panel, but only if the program’s uninstaller behaves itself. Otherwise,
search the Web for the program name and the word “uninstall” to see
whether there are any special removal tools or procedures for the program
you’re trying to remove.
Of course, neither of these tools will do you much good if Windows won’t
start. There’s also an entry called Last Known Good Configuration in the
Vista startup menu (covered in Chapter 1), typically shown if Windows
didn’t shut down properly last time, or if you press the F8 key before Windows starts loading. In theory, this feature starts Windows with an earlier collection of hardware drivers and settings taken from the last successful boot.
In practice, however, Vista seems to have a hard time defining “good” (with
respect to the Last Known Good moniker), and is usually unable to find an
earlier configuration that either solves the problem or works at all. It’s worth
trying if you don’t have a valid Registry backup, but don’t expect miracles.
File Type Associations
File type associations are the links between your documents and the applications that use them. The most apparent use of this feature is that, for example, Windows knows to open Notepad when you double-click a text
document on the desktop or show you an online advertisement for anatomical enhancement if you click the link in a spam email message.
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One might assume that the aforementioned text file somehow knows it’s a
Notepad document, but that isn’t the case. Instead, Windows determines
how to handle a file based solely on the filename extension. The extension is
the group of letters—usually three—that follow the period in most filenames. For example, the extension of the file Readme.txt is .txt, signifying a
plain-text file. Likewise, the extension of Resume.docx is .docx, which means
it’s a word processor document in the Microsoft Word 2007 file format.
The Registry
There are a number of filename extension databases on the
Web, which is useful if you encounter a file you can’t open
and don’t recognize. Some of the better resources include
http://wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_file_formats and http://filext.
com. Alternatively, you can double-click the unknown file
and when Windows asks you what you want to do
(Figure 3-11), select Use the Web service to find the correct
program, and click OK. Just don’t be surprised if you don’t
get a satisfying response.
Figure 3-11. If you see this window, the selected file’s filename extension isn’t currently
registered on your PC
It may seem silly that so much of Windows’ ability to open files rests on
something as easy to break as the filename, but the design does have its
advantages. For instance, it’s fairly easy to change the program used to open
all your digital photos without having to modify all your .jpg files to do it.
The biggest flaw in the system is that Windows hides filename extensions by
default, which is why Windows Explorer shows only Readme instead of
Readme.txt. Fortunately, this is easy enough to change; just open Folder
Options in Control Panel (or click Organize ➝ Folder and Search Options
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in Windows Explorer). In the Folder Options window, choose the View tab,
turn off the Hide extensions for known file types option, and click OK.
If you have Windows show filename extensions, it’s easier to determine
what kind of files you’re dealing with. Instead of merely a file named recipe,
you might see recipe.tif if it’s a scan of a recipe, recipe.pdf if it’s an Acrobat
file with a recipe inside, or recipe.exe if it’s a Trojan horse you just received
via email. Sure, you’ll have to open the file to see whether you’re making
cookies or explosives, but at least you can anticipate which application will
appear, and will know whether or not you’ll have to convert it to a different
format before posting it on your Chocolate Chip Anarchist blog.
Having extensions visible also means you can change Windows’ perception
of the type of a file by merely renaming its extension. (Note that changing a
file’s extension doesn’t actually change the contents or the format of the file,
only how Windows interacts with it.)
Now, Microsoft started hiding filename extensions back in Windows 95 (in
a vain attempt to make Windows easier to use), but it’s never been handled
well. For instance, if you have more than one file, side-by-side, with the
same name, having your extensions hidden just makes things more confusing. Rather than recipe.jpg, recipe.wpd, and recipe.txt, you’ll just see recipe,
recipe, and recipe, with only a miniscule icon to distinguish them.
And since only registered filename extensions are hidden, recipe.pdf would
normally appear as recipe.pdf until you install Adobe Acrobat Reader. Once
Acrobat registers the .pdf file type, the .pdf extensions vanish, and the file
will be shown merely as recipe...unless you elect to make file extensions visible as described above. But what does it mean to register a file type?
Anatomy of a File Type
A registered file type is constructed out of a handful of keys and values in
the Registry that Windows reads in real time to handle your documents
appropriately. Register a new file type, and Windows will know what to do
with files of that type right away.
Usually it’s an installer or an application that registers new file types, but
anyone (or any program, for that matter) can add new ones or modify existing file type associations. Customizing your PC’s file types is one of the most
effective ways to save time and reduce annoyances in Windows, but Vista
doesn’t make it easy, so you’ve got to know what makes them tick first.
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It starts with a single key in HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT, named for a filename extension (including the dot). The (Default) value in that key contains the name
of another key that has all the file type’s meat in it. For instance, open up
the Registry Editor and peer into these keys:
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.log
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.scp
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.txt
Each one has a (Default) value that contains the word txtfile. Thus, each
filename extension points to the txtfile file type, which is located in HKEY_
CLASSES_ROOT\txtfile. And it’s the txtfile key that has all the good stuff.
See the “Special File Type Keys” sidebar for some catch-all file types.
The Registry
Special File Type Keys
There are a few special file type keys in the Registry, each of which work like
standard file types, despite having much greater scope. They are:
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\*
The asterisk (*) Registry key, conveniently placed at the top of the
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT tree in the Registry Editor, defines actions and exten-
sions for all files. If there’s a context menu item you’d like to eliminate,
odds are it’s in the Shell or ShellEx subkeys of the * key.
By adding a new action key to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\*\Shell, you can add
a context menu item for all the files on your PC. For instance, you could
add a key named OpenInNotepad, type Open in Notepad into the key’s
(Default) value, and then add a command key that points to notepad.exe,
as described later in this section. When you’re done, right-click any file
and select Open in Notepad to view the file in a new Notepad window.
See “Customize Context Menus for Files,” later in this chapter, for
details.
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\Unknown
This key is used to define the behavior of all files with unregistered file
extensions. By default, there’s only one file type here, openas, which is
responsible for the dialog window in Figure 3-11. You can, of course,
add new actions or even change the default action here. For example,
you may work with a bunch of different types of documents Windows
doesn’t recognize, and wish to open them all in your favorite text editor
without having to register them all first.
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The system Windows uses to keep track of its file types has
been around for years and has survived a bunch of different
Windows versions. As a result, you’ll see a lot of inconsistencies. Sometimes, for instance, the meat of a file type is actually in the extension key (e.g., HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.scp)
rather than the file type key. Because Windows still allows
this, some developers still do it this way, and in turn, you’ll
have to deal with it. Although most file types do follow the
structure laid out on these pages, don’t be surprised if you
see something that doesn’t belong and still works.
A typical file type key (e.g., HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\txtfile) has a few values and
subkeys, most of which appear in Figure 3-12.
Figure 3-12. A file type key has values and subkeys that determine how Windows treats
associated files
First, the (Default) value contains the name of the type, the text that
appears in Windows Explorer’s Type column.
If a value named AlwaysShowExt is present in this key, the extension for this
file type will be displayed in Explorer, even if you’ve elected to hide your
filename extensions (a setting explained at the beginning of this section). A
related value, NeverShowExt, appears in a few file type keys—such as those
for Windows Shortcuts (.lnk files), Internet Shortcuts (.url files), and
Explorer Commands (.scf files)—and instructs Explorer to always hide the
extensions for these files, regardless of your preferences.
You’ll also see some other values such as EditFlags, FriendlyTypeName, and
InfoTip that are fairly inconsequential, but it’s the stuff in the following
three subkeys that’s responsible for most of the magic:
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DefaultIcon
The (Default) value in this key contains the full path and filename of
the file containing the icon used for all files of this type. See the next section, “Change the Icon for All Files of a Type,” for details.
Shell
Each subkey of Shell corresponds to an item (called an action) in the
file’s context menu. See “Customize Context Menus for Files,” later in
this chapter, to find out how this branch is structured.
ShellEx
Once you know where all the essential keys are, you can use Registry Editor
or one of the other tools mentioned in the upcoming sections to do just
about anything you want with Vista’s file types system. When you have
everything the way you want it, don’t forget to take some steps to protect
your customized file types from overzealous application installers, as
described in “Lock Your File Types,” later in this chapter.
Change the Icon for All Files of a Type
Every file type has a default icon, the icon shown for all files with filename
extensions linked to that type. Yet Vista offers no way to choose your own
icons—apart from editing the Registry directly—despite the fact that you
could do this right in Windows Explorer in previous versions of Windows.
The (Default) value in the DefaultIcon key mentioned in the previous section contains the full path and filename of the file containing the default icon.
Often it points right to the application executable that uses the file (e.g.,
excel.exe for .xls files), but sometimes it references a .dll or .ico file containing a
bunch of icons. The filename is then followed by a comma and then a number
(called the index) that indicates which icon to use. For example:
C:\Program Files\Photoshop\Photoshop.exe,15
points to the file Photoshop.exe, located in the C:\Program Files\Photoshop
folder, and references the 16th icon in that file (0 or no number indicating
the first icon, 1 indicating the second, and so on).
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The Registry
The ShellEx branch lists Windows Explorer extensions, add-on programs designed to interact with Explorer and add features. This branch
is covered in the “Fix Wonky Shell Extensions” sidebar, later in this
chapter.
Occasionally, you may see something like this in the DefaultIcon key:
%SystemRoot%\system32\wmploc.dll,-731
Here, %SystemRoot% is a variable that represents the Windows folder (usually
C:\Windows). When the (Default) value in which this information is stored
is an expandable string value (described in “The Meat of the Registry: Values,” earlier in this chapter), Windows converts the filename to C:\Windows\
System32\wmploc.dll before retrieving the icon. You may also sometimes
notice a negative value following the filename (-731, in this case) which represents the resource ID of the icon to use—as opposed to a positive value
indicating the index (position) of the icon as described earlier.
In most cases, you can specify your own icon for a given file type by placing
the full path to an .exe, .dll, .ico, or .bmp file in the DefaultIcon key’s
(Default) value. (Hint: there are some nice icons in \Windows\System32\
shell32.dll.) Include a number to indicate which icon to use, or leave out the
number to use the first icon in the file. In some cases, Windows Explorer
will recognize the change right away, although due to the way Vista caches
icons, you may need to restart Windows for your change to fully take effect.
The easiest way to change an icon for a file type is with a
third-party tool like File Type Doctor, discussed in the next
section.
The only time when Windows won’t pay attention to the icon specified in
the DefaultIcon key is when an IconHandler is defined. IconHandlers generate dynamic icons on the fly (Figure 3-13), typically showing thumbnails of
the files’ contents in lieu of static icons.
An IconHandler is a program—typically a .dll file in the program folder of
the application with which the file is associated—that understands the file
format. For instance, Adobe Acrobat (version 7.0 and later) makes use of
this feature to facilitate thumbnail previews for .pdf files in Windows
Explorer. For the .pdf filename extension, Acrobat’s IconHandler could be
referenced in any of these Registry keys:
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.pdf\ShellEx\IconHandler
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.pdf\ShellEx\{BB2E617C-0920-11D1-9A0B-00C04FC2D6C1}
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\AcroExch.Document.7\ShellEx\IconHandler
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\AcroExch.Document.7\ShellEx\{BB2E617C-0920-11D1-9A0B00C04FC2D6C1}
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\SystemFileAssociations\.pdf\ShellEx\IconHandler
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\SystemFileAssociations\.pdf\ShellEx\{BB2E617C-0920-11D19A0B-00C04FC2D6C1}
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\SystemFileAssociations\image\ShellEx\IconHandler
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\SystemFileAssociations\image\ShellEx\{BB2E617C-0920-11D19A0B-00C04FC2D6C1}
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The Registry
Figure 3-13. If an IconHandler is defined for a file type, Windows generates icons
dynamically for each file instead of using the static icon referenced in the DefaultIcon key
As it turns out, Adobe chose the fourth key to register its IconHandler. The
(Default) value in that key contains a 38-digit class ID that points to an
entry in HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\CLSID, which in turn contains all the details
about the .dll file.
If the reference to the IconHandler is contained in one of the
keys named IconHandler, the .dll is responsible for the
dynamically generated icon. But newer programs will use the
{BB2E617C-0920-11d1-9A0B-00C04FC2D6C1} key, which facilitates image previews for the Preview pane in Windows
Explorer, as well as dynamic icons. See “Expand the Scope
of Your File Types,” later in this chapter, for more information on the SystemFileAssociations key.
Once you find the reference to the IconHandler, you can delete the key—
either the IconHandler key or the {BB2E617C-0920-11d1-9A0B-00C04FC2D6C1}
key—to disable the IconHandler and allow Windows Explorer to use the
static icon defined in the DefaultIcon key.
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But what if you want to fix a broken file type for which icon previews have
stopped working? Often it’s easier to just reinstall the associated application
to repair the IconHandler keys, but if that application is Windows itself,
then you’ll probably want to follow these steps to reinstate icon previews on
your PC:
1. Open the Registry Editor.
2. Navigate to the Registry key for the filename extension you want to
modify. For instance, if you want to enable icon previews for TIFF files,
go to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.tif.
3. Look for a PerceivedType value inside the .tif key. If it’s not there,
select Edit ➝ New ➝ String Value, and type PerceivedType for its name.
4. Double-click the PerceivedType value, type image for its contents, and
click OK.
5. Next, navigate to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\SystemFileAssociations\image. As
described in “Expand the Scope of Your File Types,” later in this chapter, this key provides common properties for all image files, such as .jpg,
.bmp, and .tif files.
6. Open the ShellEx key, and look for a key named {BB2E617C-0920-11d19A0B-00C04FC2D6C1}. If it’s not there, select Edit ➝ New ➝ Key, and type
{BB2E617C-0920-11d1-9A0B-00C04FC2D6C1} for the name of the new key.
7. Open the {BB2E617C-0920-11d1-9A0B-00C04FC2D6C1} key, and double-click
the (Default) value. Type {3F30C968-480A-4C6C-862D-EFC0897BB84B} for
its contents, and click OK when you’re done.
Of the two Class IDs mentioned here, {BB2E617C-0920connects the file type to
Windows Explorer’s Preview pane, and {3F30C968-480A4C6C-862D-EFC0897BB84B} points to Windows’ own
PhotoMetadataHandler.dll, the .dll file responsible for generating icon previews for all supported photo file formats.
11d1-9A0B-00C04FC2D6C1}
8. The change should take effect immediately; if not, restart Windows to
see the new icons.
IconHandlers are most likely to be broken by misbehaving installers for
graphics applications, so if you don’t want to have to repeat these steps, use
the solution in “Lock Your File Types,” later in this chapter.
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Customize Context Menus for Files
A context menu (sometimes called a shortcut menu) is the little menu that
appears when you use the right mouse button to click on a file, folder, application title bar, or nearly any other object on the screen. Most of the time,
this menu includes a list of actions appropriate to the object on which
you’ve clicked. In other words, the options available depend on the context.
In the case of .html files, for example, you could add an Edit action to open
your favorite web page editor, a View with Firefox action, and a View with
Internet Explorer action—all in addition to the default Open action.
Sounds great, right? Unfortunately, the File Types window—the tool found
in earlier versions of Windows that lets you edit context menus from within
Windows Explorer—is completely absent in Windows Vista. In its place is
the extremely dumbed-down Set Associations window shown in
Figure 3-15. Here, you can only choose default applications for your various
file types, and in doing so, obliterate your applications’ defaults or any custom context menus you’ve built (more on that later).
So, you’re left with two options if you want to customize your context
menus: either hack the Registry or use a third-party program. Given that this
is the Registry chapter, let’s have some fun digging through keys and values.
As described in “Anatomy of a File Type,” earlier in this chapter, there’s a Registry key named Shell inside the file type key where all the magic happens.
Each subkey of Shell corresponds to a single action in the file’s context menu.
The text that appears in the context menu (the label) is defined in the action
key’s (Default) value; if the (Default) value is empty, Windows Explorer just
uses the name of the key (e.g., Open). Unfortunately, Windows Vista has two
competing systems that determine the default actions for your file types; see the
upcoming sidebar, “The Evils of UserChoice,” for details.
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The Registry
The context menu for files, shown in Figure 3-14, is an assortment of standard actions common to all files (e.g., Copy, Paste, Delete, Rename, and
Properties) plus one or more custom actions depending upon the type of file
selected. Each of the custom actions is linked to an application: if you rightclick a .txt file and select Open, Windows launches Notepad (by default) and
instructs it to open the selected file. The default action—the action that is carried out when you double-click the file—appears in bold text in the context
menu, and the rest of the actions are listed below. Among other things, this
means you can have more than one program associated with a single file type.
Figure 3-14. Right-click a file to show its context menu; Windows Vista doesn’t make it
easy to customize the items you see here
Say you right-click a Microsoft Excel document (.xlsx file), and at the top of
the menu that appears you see Open (in bold), New, and Print. If you open
the Registry, you’ll see that HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.xlsx points to HKEY_CLASSES_
ROOT\Excel.Sheet.12, so you proceed to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\Excel.Sheet.12\
Shell. Inside the Shell key, you’ll see three subkeys named—you guessed it
— New, Open, and Print. Add a new subkey to Shell, followed by the subkeys described shortly, and you’ll get a new entry in the context menu for all
files of the selected type.
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The Registry
Figure 3-15. The Set Associations window—accessed through Control Panel ➝ Default
Programs ➝ Associate a file type or protocol with a program—just plain sucks
See a context menu item you want to get rid of? Just delete
the corresponding key here, and it’ll disappear immediately.
If you don’t see the key here, it may be listed in one of five
other places:
• Look for a second Shell subkey in the extension key (e.g.,
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.xlsx\Shell).
• The ShellEx\ContextMenuHandlers branch, discussed
later in this section.
• The * key covered in the “Special File Type Keys” sidebar, earlier in this chapter.
• The nasty UserChoice key described in the upcoming
sidebar, “The Evils of UserChoice.”
• The SystemFileAssociations branch explained in
“Expand the Scope of Your File Types,” later in this
chapter.
The action shown in bold (usually Open) is called the default, and is the one
carried out when you double-click the file. The (Default) value in the Shell
key determines which action is the default; if (Default) is empty and there’s
more than one action, Windows assumes it’s the one named Open. Otherwise,
Windows just takes its best guess. You can, of course, change the default by
setting the (Default) value to the name of any action key shown here.
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The Evils of UserChoice
This is a new addition to Windows Vista, and a nasty one at that. If you rightclick a file, select Open With, and then select a default application (or if you use
Vista’s own File Types tool, discussed later in this chapter), Windows doesn’t
actually change the file type. Instead, Vista creates a new key for the filename extension in HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\
CurrentVersion\Explorer\FileExts\, and then in that key, a UserChoice key
with the full path of the program you’ve chosen, like this:
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\
FileExts\.wav\UserChoice
The point of the UserChoice key is to prevent applications from changing your
defaults without your permission; as long as that UserChoice key exists, Windows ignores all the actions defined in the ordinary file type key.
Like so many other patchwork features in Windows, the UserChoice system
just doesn’t work that well. For one, any custom context menu items you’ve
defined for a file type vanish if the corresponding extension ever shows up in
the UserChoice key, with no means of retrieval without you having to manually edit the Registry. And the old trick of reinstalling an application to restore
its file types won’t work if the UserChoice key is involved (unless the installer
is smart enough to deal with the UserChoice key).
The solution is to open the Registry Editor, navigate to HKEY_CURRENT_USER\
Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer, and delete the
FileExts key altogether. This will eliminate all UserChoice keys while leaving
your file types intact. Thereafter, refrain from using the Open With menu or
Control Panel to modify your file types, and your file associations will continue to behave as you expect.
Now, there’s another, less obvious facet to the UserChoice key, one that may
be a possible benefit for PCs with more than one user account. Traditional file
types are stored in the HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT key, which is a subset of HKEY_
LOCAL_MACHINE; this means your file types are the same for all users on your
PC. But the UserChoice keys are buried in HKEY_CURRENT_USER branch, allowing
each user to to have his or her own set of overrides. Of course, you can still
delete your own FileExts key without affecting another user’s overrides, but
any subsequent changes you make to the file types in HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT will
be put into action for all users right away.
Inside each action key is a subkey named command (and perhaps another
named ddeexec). Inside the command key is a (Default) value that specifies the
full path and filename of the program to run. Right-click an .xlsx file and
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select Open, and Windows runs the program listed in HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\
Excel.Sheet.12\shell\Open\command. For example:
"C:\Program Files\Microsoft Office\Office12\EXCEL.EXE" /e
The quotes around the full path and filename of the application accommodate
the spaces, and tell Windows where the filename ends and the command-line
options (such as /e, here) begin. Most of the time, though, the commandline contains a placeholder, %1, for the selected filename, like this:
"C:\Program Files\UltraEdit\UEDIT32.EXE" "%1"
When Windows opens this program, it passes the full path and filename of
the selected file to the program by putting it in place of %1, like this:
Now, that little option, %1, is the cause of a lot of problems in Windows’ file
types system, such as:
Application displays “not found” error. The quotation marks are missing
around the "%1" and the document you’re trying to open has a space in
its file- or pathname. Just add the quotes and try again.
Older application displays a “bad command line” error or something
similar. Not all programs respond well to the quotation marks around the
"%1" parameter. Try taking them out if this happens.
Application doesn’t open the file at all. The "%1" parameter is missing altogether, or the application requires a different syntax. For instance, the
Mozilla SeaMonkey web browser requires the -url parameter in front of
%1, like this:
C:\Program Files\Mozilla SeaMonkey\seamonkey.exe -url "%1"
If you’re not sure what your application needs, check the documentation or search Google for the application name and the words “command line.”
Application only opens a document if the application isn’t already
running. This problem (and the next one) are caused by a background
technology called Dynamic Data Exchange, or DDE, that allows Windows programs to communicate with one another. Windows sends a
DDE signal to an application that’s already running to instruct it to
open the document. (If the application isn’t already running, Windows
launches it just like any other.) The specific DDE commands that the
application needs are stored in the ddeexec Registry key, alongside the
aforementioned command key (shown previously in Figure 3-12). If the
ddeexec key is missing, Windows won’t send the signal, and the program won’t open your document. You can try rebuilding the ddeexec
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The Registry
"C:\Program Files\UltraEdit\UEDIT32.EXE" "C:\Users\Janeane\Desktop\readme.txt"
key if you can find documentation, but it’s usually easier to just reinstall
the application that owns the key. (Not all programs use DDE; don’t
bother creating the ddeexec key unless you are having this specific
problem.)
Application opens the document twice. The ddeexec key just described
often causes more problems than it solves. Sometimes Windows sends
the aforementioned DDE message and launches another copy of the
program, which opens two document windows. If this happens, rename
the ddeexec key to ddeexec.backup.
If an application has stopped responding (in other words, it
crashed), it won’t respond to Windows’ DDE instructions to
open your document, nor will Windows open a second copy
of the program. To find out whether this is happening, rightclick an empty portion of your task bar, select Task Manager,
and click the Processes tab. If the program you’re troubleshooting is there, highlight it and click End Process, and then
try opening your document again.
At this point, you’re probably thinking, “so, I have to type all these Registry
keys by hand if I want the least bit of control over my file types?” If so, I
laugh at you.
File Type Doctor, part of Creative Element Power Tools (available at http://
www.creativelement.com/powertools/) and shown in Figure 3-16, lets you
customize your context menus, change file type icons, and choose defaults.
In the File Type Doctor window, file types are organized by their names
(shown in the righthand column) and by their corresponding filename
extensions (shown in the lefthand column); click either column header to
sort the list accordingly. The properties of the currently selected file type are
shown on the right side of the window.
You can also right-click any file in Windows Explorer or on
your desktop and select Edit File Type to customize the file’s
context menu in File Type Doctor on the fly.
Edit the name of the type—the text that appears in Windows Explorer’s
Type column and in the file’s Properties window—by typing in the Name
textbox at the top-right of the window. Click the Change button to choose
an icon for all files of this type, or double-click the icon itself (to the left of
the Change button) to choose from the icons in the default application executable (shown in bold in the Actions in right-click menu list).
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The Registry
Figure 3-16. File Type Doctor gives you the complete control over your file associations
that Vista doesn’t
File Type Doctor saves changes automatically as you make
them. This makes it easy to test your context menus as you
go, but it also means that most changes cannot be easily
undone.
The Actions in right-click menu list on the right side shows all the context
menu items registered for the selected file type. Click New to add a new
item or click Edit (or double-click the item in the list) to modify the associated application and its options.
You can also remove unwanted context menu items by highlighting them
here and clicking Remove. The list shows everything registered for the
selected file type, as well as the perceived type, explained in “Expand the
Scope of Your File Types,” later in this chapter. Shell extensions, explained
in the upcoming sidebar,“Fix Wonky Shell Extensions,” are shown in italicized font; these can be removed but not modified in the traditional sense.
The only items not shown in the Actions in right-click menu
list are those actions registered for the * file type discussed in
the “Special File Type Keys” sidebar, earlier in this chapter.
If you’re trying to remove clutter from your context menus
and you don’t see an item you’re looking for, try selecting
the * (all files) entry at the very top of the list of file types.
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Fix Wonky Shell Extensions
Shell extensions are programs—usually .dll files—that add features to Windows Explorer. When they work, they’re great, but when they falter, they can
cause poor performance, crashes, and other problems. You can disable shell
extensions by unregistering them (deleting their Registry keys) or by simply
disconnecting them from their associated file types, as described here.
The shell Registry key dissected in “Customize Context Menus for Files,”
houses the keys responsible for the static items in a file’s context menu. But
context menu shell extensions—ones that can dyamically generate context
menu items—are located in the shellex\ContextMenuHandlers Registry key.
Each subkey of ContextMenuHandlers usually contains nothing more than a
cryptic, 38-character code that looks like this:
{E88DCCE0-B7B3-11d1-A9F0-00AA0060FA31}
This 32-digit hex code (a.k.a. 16-bit number) is a Class ID (or CLSID for
short) that points to a subkey of the same name in HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\CLSID\
{class_id}. Class IDs are the means by which shell extensions—not to mention components used in all types of software—are registered in Windows
and connected to the programs that use them.
In addition to ContextMenuHandlers, you’ll find these other keys inside the
shellex key:
DropHandler
Extensions in this branch are activated when you drag files of this type
or drop other files onto files of this type.
IconHandler
This key points to a program that dynamically generates an icon —
usually a preview of the contents of the file — to be used instead of a
static icon. See “Change the Icon for All Files of a Type,” earlier in this
chapter, for details.
PropertySheetHandlers
These extensions add extra pages (tabs) to the window that appears
when you right-click a file of this type and select Properties.
Of course, the keys in the shellex branch aren’t always so neatly organized;
sometimes you’ll find keys named for a Class ID, with another Class ID in its
(Default) value. See “Search the Registry,” earlier in this chapter, for some
tools you can use to help track down Class IDs.
—continued—
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File Type Doctor shows context menu shell extensions associated with the
selected file type in italicized font. Although you can’t edit them (you’ll need
their source code and development software like Visual Studio for that), you
can remove their context menus by selecting them and clicking Remove. This
won’t unregister the extension, it’ll just disconnect it from the selected file
type, and likely fix the problem you’re having. (Or, just do it to remove clutter.) You can also right-click a shell extension in File Type Doctor to search
the Registry or the Web for its Class ID or other related information to learn
more about it.
To list all the shell extensions installed on your PC, use ShellExView, available for free from http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/shexview.html.
Lock Your File Types
Tech companies used to spend millions trying to get you to buy their products (OK, they still do), but now the race is on to be “the default.” Microsoft
wants its Live Search web site to be the default search engine in IE, and Google sued Microsoft to try to prevent this before Windows Vista shipped.
Companies pay PC manufacturers to preinstall trial versions of their software on all their machines so their products can be the default. And when
you install an application on your PC, the installer invariably makes the new
program the default for all the file types it supports.
Why is being the default so important? Because people don’t change the
defaults.
As a result, software companies—Microsoft included—make a habit out of
steamrolling over your preferences to promote their own products. Luckily,
you have a defense, and it takes place in the Registry.
There are basically two approaches to protecting your file types: you can
back them up so they can be restored in case they’re ever overwritten, and
you can “lock” them, preventing such changes in the first place.
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The Registry
One of the most useful features of File Type Doctor is the Lock feature,
described next.
There’s actually a third way to protect your file types, by way
of Vista’s UserChoice feature explained the “The Evils of
UserChoice” sidebar, earlier in this chapter. It’s not a great
solution, but it may be effective in some circumstances.
The easiest way to back up your file types is to create Registry patches as
explained in “Export and Import Data with Registry Patches,” earlier in this
chapter. To make the backup effective, you have to include all the keys laid
out in “Anatomy of a File Type,” also earlier in this chapter. For instance, if
you’re backing up the file type for plain-text (.txt) files, your Registry patch
should include all of these keys:
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.txt
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\txtfile
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\SystemFileAssociations\text
That last one—the one in the SystemFileAssociations branch—is described
in the next section, “Expand the Scope of Your File Types.” And if you want
to include other related filename extensions, such as .log, .ini, and .csv (to
name a few), you’ll want to include those keys as well.
So, if your file type associations for text files ever get wiped out, just doubleclick your Registry patch backup to restore them.
But a slicker solution is to lock your file types by setting restrictive permissions on the aforementioned keys as described in “Prevent Changes to a
Registry Key,” earlier in this chapter. That way, no application, no installer,
and not even Windows itself can change them unless you unlock them first.
If you want a shortcut, you can use File Type Doctor, introduced in the previous section. Just highlight the file type you want to lock and click the Lock
button. File Type Doctor will not only protect the selected filename extension and associated file type with one click, but all linked filename extensions as well.
Most programs and installers won’t have a problem with
locked file types; they’ll likely just ignore the error and move
on. But it’s not beyond the realm of possibility that an application may crash or refuse to continue until it has all the
Registry access it needs. In this case, you may need to unlock
the affected file types first, so you’ll want to back them up as
described earlier in this section.
To remove the lock, just select a locked file type (you can click the leftmost
column header to group all locked file types together) and click the Unlock
button.
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Expand the Scope of Your File Types
To every rule there’s an exception, and in Windows Vista, doubly so. In
“Anatomy of a File Type,” earlier in this chapter, the basic file types system
is laid out, with a collection of keys named for filename extensions (e.g.,
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.jpg) and the corresponding file type keys (such as HKEY_
CLASSES_ROOT\jpegfile). As it turns out, there’s yet another connection in
the Registry that affects your file types.
Say you just installed a new image-resizing utility that you’d like to use with
a variety of photo formats. But rather than make it the default for those file
types, you decide to add a context menu item for each supported file format
(e.g., .jpg, .bmp, .png, and so on). Sure, you can do this for each of the 10 or
so graphic formats it supports, but it turns out that all you need to do is add
it to this key to affect all your image files at once:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Classes\SystemFileAssociations\image\shell\my_
new_program
By default, the image key shown here is linked to all filename extensions
with a PerceivedType set to image, namely .bmp, .dib, .emf, .gif, .ico, .jfif, .jpe,
.jpeg, .jpg, .png, .rle, .tif, .tiff, .wdp, and .wmf.
Windows Vista comes with only five perceived type keys (audio, image,
system, text, and video) out of the box, but you can add your own to the
SystemFileAssociations branch at any time, provided you then link at least
one file extension to it by adding a PerceivedType value pointing to your new
key. The benefit is that you can use this key to add a custom context menu
item that affects a large number of different file types at once. The drawback
is that it’s one more place you’ll have to look to track down a misbehaving or
unwanted context menu item.
To break the connection between a filename extension and a perceived type,
just delete the PerceivedType value from the extension key. Or, to link up a
file type with an existing PerceivedType, create a new string value named
PerceivedType in the extension key, and set its contents to the name of the
matching perceived type key in the SystemFileAssociations branch.
File Type Doctor (see “Customize Context Menus for Files,” earlier in this
chapter) also supports perceived types through its “scope” and “affiliation” features. For instance, if you try to delete a context menu action
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Many extension keys—like HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.jpg —contain values named
PerceivedType, which point to subkeys of HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\
Classes\SystemFileAssociations. The keys therein work like ordinary file
type keys, but they’re much broader in scope. Instead of being linked to one
or two filename extensions, a perceived type key could be linked to dozens.
that’s connected through a perceived type, File Type Doctor displays a confirmation box that lists the other filename extensions that will be affected by
the change. Likewise, when creating a new action, you can choose the
scope; click the Properties button next to the Scope list to display all the
extensions tied to the current selection.
While you’re digging around the HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\SystemFileAssociations
branch in the Registry, you may find some file extension keys here as well,
like HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\SystemFileAssociations\.png. These look and work
just like the extension keys and file type keys in HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT, discussed earlier in this chapter, but they’re used primarily to reference the
Windows Explorer extensions that were preinstalled with Windows. Why
they’re here instead of in HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT with the rest of the extensions is
not entirely clear, but what is clear is that the SystemFileAssociations
branch is yet another place to look for Registry keys that affect file types.
Customize Windows Explorer’s New Menu
If you right-click an empty area of the desktop or any open folder window
and select New, you’ll see special list of registered file types that can be created on the spot. Choose one, and Explorer will create a new (usually empty)
file with the appropriate filename extension right there. Not surprisingly, you
can edit that list, and even make it do more than just create empty files.
Here’s the easiest way to remove unwanted items from Explorer’s New
menu:
1. Install Creative Element Power Tools (introduced earlier in “Customize
Context Menus for Files”), turn on the Edit file type associations option
in the Creative Elements Power Tools Control Panel, and click Accept.
2. Right-click an empty area of your desktop, select New, and then select
one of the entries you’d like to remove.
3. Right-click the new file and select Edit File Type.
4. Remove the checkbox next to the Show in Explorer’s New menu
option.
5. The change will take effect immediately; right-click the desktop again
and select New to check it out.
If you want to do it by hand, you’ll need to look in a few different places in
the Registry:
1. Open the Registry Editor.
2. Navigate to the key named for the filename extension you’d like to
remove from Windows Explorer’s New menu. For the .txt extension,
you’d go to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.txt.
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3. If you see a subkey here named ShellNew, rename it to Shellnew(Shellnew followed by a hyphen).
4. Next, look at the (Default) value of the extension key, and then look for
a subkey that matches the contents of the (Default) value. Again, for
the .txt extension, you’d go to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.txt\txtfile.
5. As in step 3, if you see a subkey here named ShellNew, rename it to
Shellnew- (Shellnew followed by a hyphen).
6. The change will take effect once you close the Registry Editor; rightclick the desktop and select New to check it out.
To get a list of all the potential entries to appear in the New
menu, fire up Registry Agent (see “Search and Replace Registry Data,” earlier in this chapter), and search the entire Registry for ShellNew. (If you want to weed out erroneous
matches, turn on the Keys option, uncheck the Values and
Data options, and then turn on Match whole word.)
Now, there are some nifty hacks you can use on the ShellNew keys you
choose to leave intact. A standard ShellNew key has only one value
(NullFile, described in the upcoming list), but if you add any of the other
following values to the ShellNew key, you’ll change how Windows Explorer
behaves when you select the corresponding items from its New menu. All
values are string values unless otherwise specified:
Command
If you include the full path and filename of a program executable (.exe
file), Explorer will launch the program instead of creating a new file.
Make sure to include the "%1" parameter (see “Customize Context
Menus for Files,” earlier in this chapter) so the target program knows
where to create the new file, like this:
c:\windows\system32\notepad.exe "%1"
Consult your application’s documentation to see whether any other
command-line parameters are needed to create the new document; otherwise, the program may just open and complain that it can’t find the
(as yet nonexistent) file.
Data
Any text stored in this binary value will be placed into the new file. For
instance, the Data value for .rtf files (in HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.rtf\
ShellNew) contains the text, {\rtf1}, which ensures that the new .rtf file
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As you can see, it’s merely the presence of a ShellNew key that determines
whether a file type shows up in Windows Explorer’s New menu. (Actually,
it’s a little more complicated than that, but more on that subject later.)
is readable by whatever program you use to open it. Explorer ignores
the Data value if either FileName or NullFile is specified.
FileName
This is the full path and filename of a template file—a file to be copied
and used for each new document you create—in lieu of creating an
empty (zero-byte) file. If you don’t include the path, Windows looks in
C:\Users\{your_user_name}\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Templates as well
as C:\Windows\ShellNew for the template file.
Handler
The Class ID (e.g., {CEEFEA1B-3E29-4EF1-B34C-FEC79C4F70AF}) of the
shell extension used to create the new file. For example, Windows
Shortcuts (.lnk files) use a handler.
IconPath
The full path and filename (plus the icon index) of the icon that appears
next to the item in Windows Explorer’s New menu. If you leave this
out, Explorer uses the file type’s default icon. See “Change the Icon for
All Files of a Type,” earlier in this chapter, for the syntax.
ItemName
By default, the name of the new file you create is the name of the file
type, preceded by the word “New” and followed by the appropriate filename extension; for instance: New Text Document.txt. This value determines the name of the new file, but like MenuText, described next, it
must point to a text resource in a .dll file.
MenuText
Unfortunately, this is not what it looks like. Yes, it determines the text
that appears in Explorer’s New menu, but you can’t just type the text
here. Instead, it must be a reference to a text resource in a .dll file, such
as @%systemroot%\system32\mspaint.exe,-59414.
NullFile
This instructs Explorer to create an empty (zero-byte) file. If none of
these other values are present, you need to include the NullFile value,
or the file type won’t show up in Explorer’s New menu.
So, how do you keep applications from recreating the ShellNew keys and
continuously cluttering up Explorer’s New menu? Adobe Photoshop does
this every time it starts, but all it takes is a quick change to the Registry to
prevent it from happening again:
1. Open the Registry Editor.
2. Navigate to the extension key you want to permanently exclude from
the New menu. For Photoshop documents, you’d go to HKEY_CLASSES_
ROOT\.psd.
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3. Delete any ShellNew keys you find here; see the solution spelled out earlier in this section for details.
4. Right-click the extension key (e.g., .psd), and select Permissions.
5. In the Permissions window, click the Advanced button, and then in the
Advanced Security Settings window, click Add.
6. Next, in the Select User or Group window, type everyone into the Enter
the object name to select field, and then click OK.
7. Finally, in the Permission Entry window, place a checkmark in the Deny
column for Create Subkey, and then click OK when you’re finished.
9. The change will take effect immediately. Test it out by starting the
application; you can press F5 in the Registry Editor to refresh the view
and confirm that no new ShellNew subkey has been added.
You can accomplish pretty much the same thing with File Type Doctor’s
Lock feature (covered earlier in “Lock Your File Types”), but that may be
overkill if all you want to do is keep unwanted items out of Explorer’s New
menu. See “Prevent Changes to a Registry Key,” earlier in this chapter, for
other things you can do with Registry permissions.
Fix Internet Shortcuts
Customization is fun, but sometimes all you need to do to a file type is fix it
when it breaks. Most of the time you can just reinstall the application that
originally created it—unless a UserChoice key is in effect, explained in the
“The Evils of UserChoice” sidebar—but that doesn’t always work.
One file type that’s always getting munged is the .url (Internet Shortcut)
type, and repairing it can be a little tricky. For one, .url files don’t launch
your web browser directly; instead, they activate a Windows .dll that does
the launching. In essence, it’s a two-step process that employs two different
file types; the following sequence of Registry keys shows how it works.
By default, the keys discussed here are all locked to prevent
casual changes, a fact that should’ve prevented them from
being corrupted in the first place. (Alas, such things seem to
happen anyway.) If Windows won’t let you make changes to
any of these keys, you’ll need to take ownership of them
first, as described in “Prevent Changes to a Registry Key,”
earlier in this chapter, and in Chapter 8.
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8. Click OK, then click Yes when asked whether you’re sure you want to set
a “deny permissions entry,” and then click OK to close the final window.
1. Go to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.url, and confirm that the (Default) value is
set to InternetShortcut.
2. Next, go to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\InternetShortcut\Shell\Open\Command,
and make sure the (Default) value here is set to:
rundll32.exe shdocvw.dll,OpenURL %l
This command instructs Windows to crack open the selected
Internet Shortcut file, read the URL stored inside (which you
can also do with Notepad, by the way), and then launch the
program appropriate to the variety of URL. Notice that the
default web browser (e.g., Internet Explorer, Firefox, etc.)
isn’t yet part of the equation.
3. Internet shortcuts also use an “icon handler” by default (explained in
“Change the Icon for All Files of a Type,” earlier in this chapter), which
chooses an icon for each file depending on the type of URL inside. So,
this key:
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\InternetShortcut\ShellEx\IconHandler
should be set to {FBF23B40-E3F0-101B-8488-00AA003E56F8}. Of course, if
you want to disable the icon handler and choose your own static icon
instead, just rename the IconHandler key to IconHandler.backup, and
then specify your icon file in the DefaultIcon key.
4. Once Windows has determined what type of URL it’s dealing with, it
executes the Open command in the key named for the protocol being
used. For instance, the URL http://www.annoyances.org/ uses the http://
protocol, so its default application is stored in this Registry key:
HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\http\shell\open\command
There are similar keys for the other protocols, like https://,
file://, ftp://, news://, nntp://, snews://, telnet://, and
mailto:. (In File Type Doctor, the protocol file types are
found at the bottom of the list.) These keys aren’t just used
for Internet Shortcuts; they control Vista’s behavior whenever you try to open a web address by clicking a hyperlink in
an email message or typing a URL into the Start menu’s
Search box.
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5. The (Default) value of the protocol’s command key should be set to the
full path and filename of your default web browser. Vista’s default is, of
course, Internet Explorer:
"C:\Program Files\Internet Explorer\iexplore.exe" -nohome
Or, if you want Mozilla SeaMonkey to be your default browser, you’d use:
C:\Program Files\Mozilla SeaMonkey\seamonkey.exe -url "%1"
Or, if you’re using Mozilla Firefox:
C:\Program Files\Mozilla Firefox\firefox.exe %1
6. The change takes effect immediately. Double-click any applicable Internet Shortcut to try out your new settings.
As you can see, there are a lot of Registry keys responsible for something as
seemingly simple as opening a web address, and all it takes is one missing
key, one misplaced quotation mark, or one mangled class ID to break the
whole system. And so it goes with the Registry in Windows Vista.
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See “Customize Context Menus for Files,” earlier in this chapter, for
details on the command key, command-line parameters, and the sometimes necessary ddeexec key.
Chapter
4 4
CHAPTER
Working with Media
In the old days, media problems meant using a butter knife to pry a tape out
of your VCR. Today, it means tracking down obscure drivers, repairing corrupt media files, hassling with overblown media players, and deciphering
incoherent CD burning errors.
Microsoft wants you to think that Vista handles videos, pictures, music, and
other media better than any previous version of Windows, and in some
ways, it does. For one, Vista’s hefty hardware requirements mean that your
PC—should it be capable of running Vista—will have the power to handle
any media task you throw at it. Windows Explorer recognizes photo, video,
and audio files, and displays their embedded information alongside other
details, like the file size and date. And Vista recognizes more media file formats and graphics hardware out of the box than, say, Windows XP. But as
they say, the devil is in the details, and, as it turns out, in the codecs as well.
Playing Video
Ever encounter a video file Windows won’t play? Unlike most other types of
files, the filename extension alone doesn’t dictate the encoding scheme. All .jpg
image files use standard JPEG compression, but a given .mpg movie file may
employ any one of dozens of available compression standards, called codecs.
Without the proper codec for a video file, you won’t be able to play the
video or even convert it into another format.
A codec (which stands for compressor/decompressor) is software installed
on your PC, akin to a device driver, with all the pitfalls and frustrations that
implies. Codecs are frequently buggy, causing video distortion or even
crashes. Vista only includes codecs for a few common standards; need anything else, and you’re on your own. And, of course, the More Information
link Media Player shows you when it can’t play a video doesn’t provide anything one would recognize as useful information.
148
To play a particular video, you need to install the same codec that was used
to create (compress) the video in the first place, regardless of the player
application you’re using. To determine which codec was used, you’ll need a
program like GSpot (http://www.headbands.com/gspot/) or AVIcodec (http://
avicodec.duby.info), both of which are free. Just drag-drop the video file onto
GSpot (Figure 4-1) or AVIcodec, and the program will display the file’s
video codec, audio codec, and other statistics.
Working with
Media
Figure 4-1. Use GSpot to find the software necessary to play a given video clip
The codec utility may indicate that the required codec is
already installed. As comforting as that may be, you might
still need to download and install the latest version of the
codec to play the troublesome video. Otherwise, you may
not have all the latest bugs...er, fixes.
If one of these tools can’t identify the codec, the file is probably corrupted or
encoded with a nonstandard scheme. Provided you’re not able to ask whoever created the file for information about the software used, the easiest trick
is to open the file in a standard text editor and look for the four-digit 4CC
code near the beginning. Figure 4-2 shows the code buried in a file, DIVX in
this case, which indicates that the DivX decompressor is needed to play this
video.
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Figure 4-2. A hex editor or text editor will show you the 4CC code embedded in the
beginning of most movie files
Armed with the name (or 4CC code) of the codec, proceed to http://www.
fourcc.org/fcccodec.htm, and download the codec installer from the list. If
the 4CC code isn’t there, a quick Google search (along with the word
“codec”) should turn up some useful leads.
Installing and Managing AX Codecs
In an attempt to find the right codec to play a video, you might come across
a lone .ax file with no installer. This is indeed a codec, albeit not a friendly
one.
To install the codec, just copy the .ax file to your \Windows\System32 folder.
Next, right-click the .ax file, select Properties, and then click the Change button (under the General tab). Click Browse, navigate to your \Windows\
System32 folder, select regsvr32.exe, click Open, and then click OK. Thereafter,
you can simply double-click .ax files to register them.
Alternatively, you can open a Command Prompt window (cmd.exe), type cd
\Windows\System32 to change to that folder, and then type regsvr32
FLVSplitter.ax to register the file. (Or, type regsvr32 /u FLVSplitter.ax to
unregister/uninstall it.)
If you see a message like “DLLRegisterServer in C:\Windows\System32\
FLVSplitter.ax succeeded,” then the new codec is installed and ready to use.
The SLD Active Codec Selector (free, www.skynet4ever.tk) is
a handy tool you can use to list registered codecs on your PC
and even selectively disable codecs you suspect might be
causing problems.
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Once you’ve installed the codec, try playing the video again. Keep in mind
that there are often multiple versions of a single codec available—sometimes from different vendors—so you may need to install several codecs
before you find the one that works.
After a bit of searching, you’ll probably figure out how widespread this
video codec problem really is. Fortunately, some enterprising individuals
have created codec packages, large installers that include several, if not dozens, of the codecs that people seem to need most. One good example,
known simply as the Vista Codec Package, is available for free from http://
www.jtow.net/users/triess/.
Some of these packages are better than others, and depending on what’s included (or what isn’t), some may cause more
problems than they solve. For best results, remove any separate, standalone codecs you’ve installed before trying out a
codec package.
For instance, on one PC, Vista lost the ability to play back .avi files: Media
Player crashed each time one was opened, and Windows Explorer displayed
an error message whenever it attempted to render thumbnails for the videos. To fix a problem like this, open the FFDShow Video Decoder Configuration tool, select Codecs on the left, and then find the codec that’s causing
the problem in the right pane. Then, in the Decoder column, use the dropdown listbox to choose a different decoder from the list. Click OK when
you’re done; the change should take effect immediately.
Repair Broken and Incomplete Videos
There are reasons that Windows Media Player might have trouble playing a
video other than a missing or broken codec—namely, problems with the video
file itself. First, make sure your video file is complete; if you downloaded it
from the Web, try clearing your browser cache and downloading the file again.
If you’re unable to obtain an intact version of the video, you may be able to
repair it with the free MPEG Header Corrector, available at http://www.
vcdhelp.us/html/tutmpegheadercorrector.html, although this typically only
works on true .mpg files. Need to repair an .avi file? Use DivFix (free, http://
divfix.maxeline.com).
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Media
If, after installing an individual codec or codec package, some of your videos no longer play (or their thumbnails no longer show up), there’s a little
trick you can try before you uninstall and give up. The FFDShow Video
Decoder Configuration tool, included with many codec packages and shown
in Figure 4-3, helps you troubleshoot specific codec problems.
Figure 4-3. When more than one codec is installed for a specific video format, you can
choose which one to use with FFDShow Video Decoder Configuration Tool
OK, I know I just said that the filename extension doesn’t dictate the codec,
but it does determine how the video data is organized in the file. See the
“Does It Have the Right Extension?” sidebar, next, if you suspect a video file
has been misnamed.
Does It Have the Right Extension?
Of course, there’s a chance someone gave your file the wrong filename extension; before you attempt to repair that video, make sure it has the correct
extension. To check whether that .mpg file is really an .mpg file, open the file
in a text or hex editor. The header (before the aforementioned 4CC code) will
read RIFF if it’s an .avi file, RMF if it’s an .rm (Real Media) file, MOOV if it’s a .mov
(Apple Quicktime) file, FLV if it’s an .flv (Flash Video) file, or W.M.F.S.D.K if
it’s a Microsoft .asf or .wmv file. If you see no header (only junk), it’s likely an
.mpg file.
See Chapter 3 for more information on file types, and Chapter 2 to find out
how to show filename extensions in Windows Explorer. Once extensions are
visible, you can change a file’s extension merely by renaming the file and typing a new one.
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But what if you’re in the middle of downloading a video from the Web?
Eventually, it’ll be intact and playable, but if you want to start playing it
before the download is complete, you’ll need to employ a few tricks.
First thing to know: Windows Media Player (and many other players) won’t
play most kinds of videos while they’re in use; that is, while they’re currently being saved by another program (e.g., your browser). The big exception to this rule is streaming video, commonly found in files with the .asf or
.wmv extension (Quicktime .mov files, too); by design, these files can be
played even while in use by other applications.
To get around this limitation, open the folder containing the file, and create
a duplicate of the partially downloaded file. Using the right mouse button,
drag the file to an empty area in the same folder, and select Copy Here from
the menu that appears. Thereafter, you should be able to open the duplicate
file with no problems.
Working with
Media
You may have to change the filename extension when playing videos that are in the midst of downloading. For instance,
if you’re downloading a video with Pando named skiing.mpg,
the intermediate filename will be skiing.mpg.downloading,
and thus the filename of the duplicate you create will be
skiing.mpg-Copy.downloading. Just rename the file to
skiing.mpg-Copy.downloading.mpg (or simply skiing.mpg)
and then double-click the file to play it.
With some video formats, particularly .avi files, there’s a catch: the index,
essential information about the sequence of frames in the video, is located at
the end of the file instead of the beginning. Thus an incomplete .avi file thus
won’t have an index, and can’t be played at all. The solution is to use a reindexing utility to rebuild this data and make the file playable. DivFix (free,
http://divfix.maxeline.com), shown in Figure 4-4, does this quite nicely, but
only works on true .avi files (discussed earlier in this section). If DivFix can’t
repair your file, the Windows Media Encoder (free, http://www.microsoft.com/
windows/windowsmedia/forpros/encoder/default.mspx) is capable of indexing
video files, albeit requiring a bit more work to navigate the complex interface.
Fix Other Playback Problems
So, what if your video plays, but just doesn’t play well? Problems like
stretched or squashed video (too wide or too tall), bad color, and choppy
playback can all be caused by buggy or misconfigured video codecs. Just
track down and install the latest version of the codec required by the misbehaving video, as described at the beginning of this chapter, and try
again. If that doesn’t help, there are some other fixes, as follows.
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Figure 4-4. Use DivFix to re-index incomplete videos so you can play what you’ve
downloaded so far
Change the aspect ratio. If all your videos seem squashed (too narrow) or
stretched out (too wide), you may have to correct your display’s aspect
ratio setting. Open Windows Media Player, click the Now Playing button, and select More Options. Choose the Devices tab, highlight Display in the list, and then click Properties. Move the slider until the oval
looks like as close to a true circle as possible, and then click OK.
On the other hand, if only a single video clip has an incorrect aspect
ratio, it may’ve been encoded that way. To fix the file, you’ll have to
open the file in a video-editing program that can resize video frames.
Although the aforementioned Windows Media Encoder can crop
frames, it can’t stretch or shrink video. To change the aspect ratio of a
video clip, use River Past Video Perspective (http://www.riverpast.com),
Open Video Converter (http://www.009soft.com), or a more advanced
video application like Adobe Premiere (http://www.abobe.com).
The hardest part is the math, but it’s not that hard. Most video has a 4:3
aspect ratio, which means the width is four-thirds the height. (HD television and some feature films typically have a 16:9 aspect ratio, while
wider “anamorphic” feature films have a 2.39:1 aspect ratio.) If your
botched video clip has, say, a resolution of 400 × 400 (giving you a 1:1
aspect ratio and a square video frame), you can either increase the width to
600 (400 × 4/3) or decrease the height to 300 (400 divided by 4/3). Of the
two choices, decreasing the height will usually give you a sharper-looking
video, since compressed pixels always look better than stretched pixels.
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Synchronize audio and video. Does this happen with all videos, or just
one? If only a single video clip is out of sync, then you’ll need to repair it
using a timeline-based video-editing application like Adobe Premiere
(www.adobe.com). (Windows Movie Maker, which comes with Vista,
won’t do.) Drag your video to the timeline, then drag the audio portion
of the clip slightly to the left or right until it’s synced up with the video.
(Naturally, this will take some trial and error, so I hope it’s not too boring of a clip.) When you’re done, export the project into a new movie
file. Consult the documentation that comes with your video application
for details.
If you’re watching a DVD and the audio is out of sync, try
pausing playback, waiting a few seconds, and then starting
up again. Sometimes that’s all it takes to get a movie back on
track.
If new drivers don’t fix the problem, open Windows Media Player, and
click the Now Playing button. Select More Options, and then click the
Performance tab. Turn on the Drop frames to keep audio and video
synchronized option, and then click OK.
Speed it up or slow it down. Is a video playing too fast or too slow? In Windows Media Player, click the Now Playing button, select Enhancements, and then select Play Speed Settings (Figure 4-5). Adjust the
slider until the video plays at the correct speed.
Fix bad color. If some of your videos seem to have messed-up color, open
Windows Media Player, click the Now Playing button, select Enhancements, select Video Settings, and then click the Reset link. Next, click
the little arrows until you see Color Chooser, and click the Reset link
here as well. Now, play a video to try it out; if the colors are still off, you
may have to play with the Video Settings and Color Chooser sliders to
fine-tune the color.
If that doesn’t do the trick, or if you see colored lines running through
your videos, you can usually correct the problem by updating your display drivers.
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If all your videos are out of sync, it’s usually caused by a problem with
your hardware drivers. Go ahead and install the latest drivers for your
video card and sound card, and then run Windows Update to make sure
you have the latest video-related updates.
Figure 4-5. Play any video faster or slower with the Play Speed Settings panel in
Windows Media Player
Shed light on blank videos. Ever feel like Sergeant Schultz from Hogan’s
Heroes?* You might hear something, but you definitely see nothing when
you play most videos.
If so, it’s likely a video overlay problem.
When you play video, Windows usually paints a special rectangle on
your screen, and your video driver is responsible for superimposing the
moving video over it. This overlay scheme allows your display adapter
(video card) to handle the burden of playing the video rather than your
CPU, which affords better performance and smoother video. Unfortunately, it can also be the source of problems in some cases, usually manifesting itself as a black rectangle where video should appear.
* I would’ve also accepted Billy Wilder’s Stalag 17 (1953).
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First, conduct a little test to see whether you indeed have an overlay
problem. Try maximizing or resizing the Windows Media Player window, or cover it with another window and then bring it to the front. If
this makes the video play, or if you see pieces of windows left behind in
the black rectangle, your video card driver may be to blame. Visit your
video card manufacturer’s web site and download the latest driver. Also,
pay a visit to the company’s support web site and look for recommended BIOS settings (see Appendix A).
In previous versions of Windows Media Player, one was able to downgrade Windows’ support for video overlays to solve this problem.
Unfortunately, Microsoft eliminated this option in Media Player 11, perhaps because Vista’s requirements for video hardware are so much heftier than Windows XP’s that Microsoft thought it inconceivable that
modern video drivers would have any problems playing video.
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To disable video overlays in RealOne Player, go to Tools ➝
Preferences ➝ Hardware ➝ Video card compatibility. Move
the slider to the left until Enabled optimized video and disable overlays appears beneath.
Simplify Your Media Players
The Windows Media Player has lots of interesting features and gadgets,
most of which just get in the way when all you want to do is play a simple
video. Of course, it looks downright minimalistic compared with Real Networks’ cumbersome RealPlayer. Fortunately, you have a few choices.
To switch to the simpler Windows Media Player window, just press Ctrl-2 to
switch to Skin Mode. (Or, press Alt to show the normally hidden menu, and
then select View ➝ Skin Mode.) The default skin is “Corporate,” but you can
choose another skin by clicking Alt and selecting View ➝ Skin Chooser.
Alternatively, Media Player Classic, available for free at http://sourceforge.net/
projects/guliverkli/, can take the place of Windows Media Player, RealPlayer,
and QuickTime Player. It has a slimmed-down interface (shown in Figure 4-6),
doesn’t need to be installed (it’s just a standalone .exe file), and plays just about
any video format. (Really, it’s just replacement “shell” that ties into the playback engines that come with the aforementioned media player applications.)
Aside from the streamlined interface and its ability to handle just about any
video format, Media Player Classic has several features that make it worth
using. For instance, you can play more than one video at once, something Windows Media Player won’t let you do. And it’s kind enough to show detailed
error messages with enough information to solve the problem, such as listing any missing codecs.
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Figure 4-6. Media Player Classic is an alternative to the overblown Windows Media
Player and messy RealPlayer applications
Handling Online Video
Ideally, video should be no different than any other web content, but when
was the last time you had trouble viewing static text and still images, or even
hearing audio, in web pages? But videos are different, and for several reasons:
• The enormous size of video files forces web publishers to employ a series
of tricks, such as nonstandard streaming protocols, dedicated video servers, and special browser plug-ins, to bring video to your desktop.
• The large number of competing formats means that you must have at
least a half-dozen browser plug-ins—not to mention all the required
codecs, described earlier in this chapter—in order to play most online
video.
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• The aforementioned plug-ins and codecs must be updated to keep up
with the technology.
• Online video publishers—particularly news organizations—often juryrig their content to make it difficult or impossible to download to your
hard disk. This means they rely more heavily on special plug-ins, JavaScript, and other hand-waving, all of which increase the likelihood that
you’ll run into a problem when you watch their videos.
All of this simply means that playing and downloading online video can be a
frustrating experience if you don’t know about a few tools and tricks.
First and foremost, make sure you have the latest versions of these four
major plug-ins installed in each web browser you use.
Filename(s) for Firefox
and SeaMonkey
Download from
Filename(s) for IE
Quicktime
www.quicktime.com
qtplugin.ocx
npqtplugin.dll
npqtpluginx.dll
RealPlayer
www.real.com
rmoc3260.dll
nppl3260.dll
nprpjplug.dll
Shockwave Flash
www.adobe.com
flash9.ocx
npswf32.dll
Windows Media Player
www.microsoft.com
wmp.dll
msdxm.ocx
npdsplay.dll
npwmsdrm.dll
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Plug-in
To see a list of plug-ins that are installed in Internet Explorer, open IE, click
the Tools drop-down, and select Internet Options. Choose the Programs
tab, click Manage add-ons, and then from the Show drop-down, select Addons that run without requiring permission. In the Settings box, you can
also disable any plug-in you suspect might be causing playback problems,
or, if you’re lucky, you may be able to go to Control Panel ➝ Programs and
Features to uninstall the plug-in completely.
In Mozilla Firefox (and Mozilla SeaMonkey), just type about:plugins in the
address bar and press Enter to see a list of installed plug-ins. (Note that
plug-ins, used to view embedded content, are indeed different from extensions, which only add features to the browser interface.) Like IE, Mozilla
plug-ins can be uninstalled from Control Panel.
You can also try installing the latest version of each of the plug-ins listed
here to solve most playback problems with web-based video.
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Rewind or Fast-Forward Streaming Video
You’ve probably encountered a video on the Web that won’t let you rewind
(without starting over) or fast-forward to skip ahead. It’s not such a big deal
with 20-second clips, but when you’re watching a half-hour broadcast
mostly featuring a talking head, it can be infuriating that you can’t just skip
ahead to the car chase.
Usually, this is a limitation of the video file (or of the player), and not simply
an option that can be turned on or off. A lot of streaming video clips have
this problem, particularly .wmv and .asf videos. To rewind or fast-forward
these videos, they must be indexed, something you can only do if the video
file is stored on your hard disk. If there’s a web-based video you want to
index, you’ll need to download it to your hard disk first—as described in
“Download Online Video Clips,” later in this chapter.
To index a .wmv file, download the free Windows Media Encoder from http://
www.microsoft.com/windows/windowsmedia/forpros/encoder/default.mspx and
open the Windows Media File Editor. Drag-drop the video onto the Editor
window, and from the File menu, select Save and Index. Thereafter, you’ll be
able to rewind and fast-forward the clip to your heart’s content.
Control Video Buffering
Most online video clips are designed to stream, allowing you to start watching before your PC has finished downloading. To keep the video playing
smoothly, video players often download a few seconds of video ahead of the
playback, a technique called buffering (or caching), and sometimes this
means you have to wait. The good news is that you can choose when to
wait: now, or later.
In Windows Media Player, click the Now Playing button, select More
Options, and then choose the Performance tab. Select Buffer [5] seconds of
content, the second option in the Network buffering section.
To shorten the lead time so that videos will start playing sooner, enter a
small number, say 3. Depending on the speed of your Internet connection
and number of visitors the web server is currently juggling, those 3 seconds
of content could take anywhere from 2 seconds to 20 minutes to download.
(Obviously, upgrading to a faster Internet connection will minimize the
waiting most of the time.)
Unfortunately, entering a small number means that Media Player has to stop
playback more often to buffer more content. If you find that Media Player
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frequently stops playing to buffer more data, raise the buffer number to 10
or 20 seconds. You’ll get smoother playback, but you’ll have to wait longer
before your online videos play.
The buffering settings discussed here have no effect on video
clips stored on your hard disk, nor on video handled by
other players (e.g., Flash, Quicktime, and RealOne). To
eliminate buffering messages altogether, see “Download
Online Video Clips,” next.
Download Online Video Clips
What happens when the publisher takes down a video or moves it to a
subscription-based archive before you have a chance to watch it? What if
the server is too busy, and your PC isn’t able to stream it smoothly? What if
you want to save the video to watch later, or if you want to index it (as
described earlier in this section) so you can rewind and fast-forward it?
What if the video is long, and you want to watch it on your handheld PC or
video-enabled iPod? What if you just want to needlessly fill up your hard drive?
Saving online video into a file on your hard disk can be tricky for several reasons, not the least of which is that there are a bunch of different ways video
can be delivered on the Web. And, of course, each format has its own download procedure.
Before you start mucking around, look for the simplest solution. Some sites, such as Google Video, include a download
link right on the page. Or, if the video is all by itself, centered in the browser window, and the URL ends with a filename extension commonly associated with video files (e.g.,
.mpg, .mov, .wmv), then you can often just save the file by
pressing Ctrl-S. (Or, go to Page ➝ Save As in IE.) Or, if the
clip is playing in a separate Windows Media Player or QuickTime window, try saving it there. Of course, most video publishers will disable the Save As feature, but it’s worth a shot.
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Most online video publishers don’t make it easy to download video files to
your hard disk, and for good reason. For one, they want you to watch their
videos only on their own web sites, where they can show you advertising,
sell you products and services, or just keep you lingering around their sites a
little longer. They also don’t want to pay to host videos embedded on your
web site, nor do they want you to take their copyrighted material and
upload it to YouTube. That’s all well and good, but who’s looking out for
your needs?
The first step is to find out what kind of video file you’re dealing with, and
the easiest way to do that is to right-click the center of the video frame in the
browser window. The context menu that appears should indicate the plugin being used, most notably, the About entry (if there is one). How you proceed depends on the plug-in:
Adobe Flash Player/Macromedia Flash Player
Flash-based videos typically come in two parts: the player module and
the video file. The Flash plug-in first loads the player module (an .swf
file), which in turn downloads and controls the video source (an .flv file);
the .flv file is what you want. (This isn’t always the case; if there’s no separate .flv file, then the video is likely embedded in the main .swf file.)
As soon as the player has finished downloading the entire .flv file, you
can find it in your web browser cache; see the upcoming sidebar, “Pull
Files Out of Your Browser Cache,” for details.
Windows Media Player can’t play .flv files unless you install
a special codec, as described in the “Installing and Managing AX Codecs” sidebar, earlier in this chapter. Now, odds
are, you won’t be able to find a WMP codec that actually
works, so you’ll need to seek out a dedicated .flv file player
instead. There are several choices, but the best one is simply called FLV Player, and is available for free from http://
www.martijndevisser.com.
If you don’t feel like digging through your cache folder, or if the cached
file doesn’t seem to be playable, you can use one of these handy browser
add-ons designed to provide direct links to .flv files on the most popular Flash-based video web sites:
Bookmarklet (Firefox, SeaMonkey, or Opera). Go to http://1024k.de/
bookmarklets/video-bookmarklets.html and drag the “All-In-One
Video Bookmarklet” link from the page onto your browser’s Links
toolbar. Then, navigate to a video page and click the bookmarklet
to open a pop-up window with a download link.
Bookmarklet (Internet Explorer). Since IE7 doesn’t support bookmarklets longer than 2,083 characters, you won’t be able to use the
aforementioned “All-In-One” link. Instead, use the “old” bookmarklets listed at http://1024k.de/bookmarklets/video-bookmarklets.html;
you’ll need to install a bookmarklet for each web site you use (e.g.,
YouTube, Google Video, etc.).
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Greasemonkey User Script (Greasemonkey extension plus Firefox/
SeaMonkey). If you have the Greasemonkey extension (available from
http://greasespot.net), go to http://1024k.de/bookmarklets/videobookmarklets.html, click the “All-In-One Video Script” link, and
then click Install. Next, navigate to a video page, and click the yellow bar that appears to display the download link.
Firefox Extension (Firefox only). First, install the VideoDownloader
extension from http://videodownloader.net/, and then restart Firefox.
Next, navigate to a video page, and click the VideoDownloader status bar icon to display a pop-up window with the download link.
Pull Files Out of Your Browser Cache
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Web browsers store copies of recently viewed pages and all associated media
(images, audio, and video) in a folder on your hard disk, called the cache. This
improves performance when you’re surfing, but also makes it easy to grab
copies of media files—such as Flash videos (.flv files)—for storage elsewhere.
Internet Explorer’s cache folder is \Users\{username}\AppData\Local\
Microsoft\Windows\Temporary Internet Files. (In IE, go to Tools ➝ Internet
Options, click Settings in the Browsing history section, and then click View
files.) Sort the list by file type to group all the .flv files together, and then drag
the file out of the folder or double-click it to play it.
Neither Mozilla Firefox nor Mozilla SeaMonkey assign filename extensions
for their cached files, so you’ll have to do a little detective work to find a
recently viewed .flv file. If you’re using Mozilla Firefox, open the Cache subfolder of \Users\{username}\AppData\Local\Mozilla\Firefox\Profiles, and sort
the listing by date. If you see a particularly large file with a date sometime in
the last few minutes, try adding the .flv extension to its filename, and then
double-click it to view it. If the video plays (provided you have an FLV player
installed), go ahead and drag the file out of the cache; otherwise, undo the
rename and try again with a different file.
Apple QuickTime
QuickTime files are typically the easiest videos to deal with. If the video
file is playing by itself in the center of the browser window, select Page
➝ Save As in Internet Explorer (or File ➝ Save As in any other browser).
If the video is playing in a standalone QuickTime window, you can select
File ➝ Save As and save the file right on the spot, but only if you’re using
QuickTime Pro (the extra-cost upgrade to the free QuickTime player).
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If the video is embedded in a web page, you’ll need one of these add-ons
to yank it out:
Bookmarklet (Internet Explorer, Firefox, SeaMonkey). Go to http://
plasmasturm.org/code/bookmarklets/ and drag the “unembed” link
from the page onto your browser’s Links toolbar. Then, navigate to a
video page and click the bookmarklet to download the embedded
video.
Greasemonkey User Script (Greasemonkey extension plus Firefox/
SeaMonkey). If you have the Greasemonkey extension (available at http://
greasespot.net), go to http://neugierig.org/software/greasemonkey/, and
install the “unembed” user script. This adds a download link next to
any embedded video; just click the link to download the video file.
Firefox/SeaMonkey Extension (Firefox or SeaMonkey). Get the AdBlock
Plus extension from http://adblockplus.org/, and then restart your
browser. Open the Adblock Plus Preferences window, select Options,
and turn on the Show tabs on Flash and Java option. Thereafter, a
small tab will appear just above embedded videos; click the tab to
view the URL, highlight the URL text and copy it to the clipboard,
and then click Cancel. Armed with the URL of the source video file,
download the file as described in the upcoming “Download Files
Without Viewing Them” sidebar.
Real Player
If the video is embedded in a web page (including a small pop-up web
page), try right-clicking the video itself. Select Play in RealPlayer to
open the clip in a standalone window, and then in Real Player, select
File ➝ Clip Properties ➝ View Clip Info. Armed with the URL of the
file, download it as described in the upcoming “Download Files Without Viewing Them” sidebar.
The file you download likely won’t be the video itself, but rather only an
.ram file, a playlist of sorts that points to one or more videos stored on a
server somewhere. Open Notepad and drag the .ram file into it to view
the URL inside. If the URL begins with http://, you can probably
download it normally, again following the routine in the “Download
Files Without Viewing Them” sidebar. On the other hand, if the URL
begins with rtsp:// (which stands for Real Time Streaming Protocol),
you’ll need a special program capable of downloading the stream to a file.
Copy the URL (highlight and press Ctrl-C) and paste it (Ctrl-V) into a
program like CoCSoft Stream Down (http://stream-down.cocsoft.com),
shown in Figure 4-7, or WMRecorder (http://www.wmrecorder.com).
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Download Files Without Viewing Them
Type a URL into your browser’s address bar and hit Enter, and the browser
will attempt to display the file in its own window or launch the associated
player. Only if the file can’t be displayed (such as a .zip or .exe), will you get
a standard Save As dialog. But what if you want to save (download) a file the
browser wants to open, such as a video?
If you’re using Mozilla SeaMonkey, this is easy. Instead of pressing the Enter
key in the address bar, press Shift-Enter to save the file instead of opening it.
This won’t work in Internet Explorer or Firefox, though, so you’ll need a
slightly trickier method for those browsers.
Open Notepad and paste the URL of the file you want to download. In front
of the URL, add this text:
<a href="
and then after the URL, add this:
">download</a>
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Save the file on your desktop as download.html, and then double-click the
new file to open it in your browser. Right-click the lone download link on the
page, and select Save Target As.
Alternatively, you can use Bulk Downloader, available at http://www.
creativelement.com/powertools/. Just choose the List Manually tab, paste the
URL (or URLs) into the box, and then click Download.
Figure 4-7. Use a program like CoCSoft Stream Down to download streaming video clips
to your hard disk
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If all goes well, you should have a file on your hard disk in about the
same amount of time as it would take to watch the video from start to
finish; just double-click the file icon to play the clip.
Windows Media Player
Windows Media Player videos are a pain in the neck because of the
wide variety of tricks publishers must use to get the videos to appear in
web pages. If you encounter one of these beasts, first try the bookmarklets and extensions for QuickTime videos, listed earlier in this section. If
none of those work, you’ll need to do some digging to get the URL of
the source file.
If the video is playing in a standalone Windows Media Player window,
getting the URL is not too hard: from the File menu, select Properties,
and it will be shown in the Location field (see Figure 4-8).
Figure 4-8. Get the URL of an online Windows Media Player video clip
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If the video is embedded in a web page, getting the URL is a little trickier.
If you’re using Firefox or SeaMonkey, right-click an empty area of the
web page and select View Page Info. Click the Media tab, and then
scroll down the list until you see the URL of the video, which is often
the only entry that isn’t an image file (.jpg, .gif, etc.).
Firefox and SeaMonkey users can also use the AdBlock Plus
extension, described in the Apple QuickTime portion of this
section, to get the URL of an embedded Media Player video
file.
Sound and Music
Microsoft revamped the audio subsystem in Windows Vista in order to solve
a series of problems it maintains caused stability and quality shortcomings
in earlier versions. For one, Microsoft moved most of the code that handles
sound out of the drivers and into another echelon of Vista’s architecture. In
short, this is why your sound doesn’t work.
Next, Microsoft redesigned the tools you use to manage sound in Vista,
such as the Volume Control and the Sound dialog in Control Panel. This is
why you can’t find anything.
As a result, manufacturers of sound cards simply discontinued their older
products rather than trying to make them Vista-compatible. This is why you
have to throw out your old sound card, and why you shouldn’t spend too
much on a new one.
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If you’re using Internet Explorer, right-click an empty area of the web
page and select View Source (this works in Firefox and SeaMonkey,
too); some familiarity with HTML will make this task much easier.
Press Ctrl-F and search the code for text that would likely appear in a
video clip URL, such as .asf, .asx, .wmv, or rstp:. Somewhere in the
code, you’ll hopefully find a full (or partial) URL for the source video clip
that looks something like rstp://www.some.server/videos/penguin.asx.
If you’re lucky enough to find the URL, you can proceed to download it
by following the instructions for Real Player, previously in this section.
Otherwise, you may be out of luck.
Get Sound Where There Is None
Sound in Windows Vista is quite a bit more complicated than it needs to be,
so troubleshooting sound problems is a real chore. The best way to fix a PC
that won’t play sound is with a systematic approach.
Start with the obvious. If you’re using external speakers, make sure they’re
plugged in, turned on, and turned up. Try plugging the speakers into an iPod,
home stereo, or other audio source to make sure they’re actually working.
Using a laptop with integrated speakers? Most laptops have their own independent volume controls, and some are unlucky enough to have two or three.
The first type is the old-school walkman-esque dial, usually found right next
to the headphone/speaker jack (sometimes these dials only control external
audio, but not always). The second type is usually found on the keyboard,
accessed by holding the Fn key while pressing another key decorated with a
speaker icon. The third type is found on newer laptops, in the group of media
quick-access buttons. Make your best effort to turn all these controls up.
Sometimes the push-button volume controls on laptops
operate the system volume directly, and sometimes they
merely send signals to a Windows application that, in turn,
controls the volume. If your laptop’s volume controls don’t
seem to be working, the application with which they communicate may not be installed or running. You can usually
download the media access software from the PC manufacturer’s web site.
If hardware volume controls are a dead end, open the Vista’s Volume Mixer
(sndvol.exe*), and then open the Device menu. If there’s more than one
device listed, make sure the one you want to use has a checkmark next to it.
Turn up the Device volume control as high as it will go. Also check the subordinate volume controls to the right, one for each open sound-enabled
application and one for Windows itself, and make sure they’re all turned up.
Next, go to Control Panel ➝ Sound, and choose the Playback tab
(Figure 4-9). If, again, there’s more than one device listed here, highlight the
one you want to use and click the Set Default button.
* Note that it’s no longer sndvol32.exe, as it was in earlier versions of Windows.
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Figure 4-9. More than one sound device on your PC? If so, you may have been setting the
volume on the wrong card all this time
Note that a single hardware device, such as a sound card,
may be responsible for multiple sound devices shown in
Control Panel. For instance, most higher-end audio cards have
both analog (headphone jack) and digital (coax or optical/
SPDIF) outputs, so make sure the one you’re using is set as the
default, and is marked with the little green checkmark icon.
With the sound device you want to use highlighted in the Playback window, click the Properties button, and choose the Custom tab, and make
sure the Digital Output Only option is turned off. Then choose the Levels
tab, and make sure all the volume controls here are turned up, and none are
muted. (Muted levels have small red symbols on the blue speaker buttons,
as shown—albeit in black and white—in Figure 4-10.)
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Figure 4-10. The volume controls for your sound card’s inputs and outputs are buried in
Control Panel, not in the Volume Mixer
Next, choose the Advanced tab. Click Test to play three tones in the left
channel, followed by three in the right (more if you have a 5.1 or 6.1 setup).
• If you don’t hear anything, and you don’t see an error message at this
point, there’s likely a problem with your speaker jack, cable, or speakers.
• If you hear only three tones, it means only one stereo channel is working; either the left or right channel (or speaker) is out. The left channel
tones decrease in frequency (higher to lower), while the right channel
tones increase (lower to higher).
• If you have more than two speakers, but don’t hear sound out of all of
them, close the Properties window and click Configure to show the
Speaker Setup page. Follow the prompts to tell Windows how many
speakers you have.
• If you hear sound in some applications and not others, it could be the
fault of the Exclusive Mode options in the Properties window. Try turning off one or both of the options here, click Apply, and try again.
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• If you hear the tones, but you can’t hear music played from an audio
CD, the analog audio cable that typically connects CD drives in desktop PCs to sound cards might be missing, or plugged into the wrong
connector. (Laptops and newer SATA drives don’t usually use these
cables.) It’s a thin cable with small, plastic, three- or four-conductor
plugs, and is found inside your PC case. Unless you’re using an add-on
sound card, this cable should be plugged into your motherboard; if
there’s more than one port, try the others until you get sound.
• If you see the message, “Failed to play test tone,” it means there’s a problem with the driver. Either it’s the wrong driver for the device, the driver
isn’t Vista compatible, or the device itself is not Vista compatible. Solutions are discussed shortly
If you have more than one audio device, and the current default won’t produce any sound, try the others, if possible. For instance, if your add-on
sound card doesn’t work, but the sound outputs on your motherboard do,
then you know your sound card is the problem.
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Trying to get the sound adapter built in to your motherboard
(desktop or laptop) to work? Check your BIOS settings and
make sure the adapter is enabled, as described in Appendix A.
If none of the tools in Control Panel or the Volume Mixer seem to help, it’s
time to start looking at your sound device. Open Control Panel ➝ Device
Manager (or launch devmgmt.msc), and expand the Sound, video and game
controllers branch. If your device isn’t listed, then Windows hasn’t detected
it, and hasn’t loaded a driver for it. If it’s listed, but its icon is covered with a
red X, then it’s just disabled; right-click the device and select Enable.
If the device icon is covered with a yellow exclamation point, then there’s
something wrong with the driver or the device. The first course of action is
to right-click the device and select Uninstall. Check the Delete the driver
software for this device option, and click OK. When the uninstallation is
complete, restart Windows, and Vista should redetect the device and install
new drivers by itself. If this doesn’t work, visit the sound card manufacturer’s web site and download the latest drivers for your card.
Now, if none of your sound devices work, including ones that are supposed to
be Vista-compatible, you may have stumbled upon a nasty problem that sometimes affects Vista when it’s been installed over an earlier version of Windows.
If this is the case with your PC, you should spend some time and remove any
remnants of old audio drivers. But be prepared for the possibility that Vista will
never produce sound reliably until it has been reinstalled from scratch. To test
this hypothesis, try installing another copy of Vista alongside your current
installation; see Chapter 1 for details on setting up a dual-boot system.
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Get Windows to Listen
Want to transfer those old vinyl LPs to MP3s? Want to use voice dictation
software? Want to record video, and need to send the audio track through
your sound card? Want to use your PC as a makeshift karaoke machine?
Getting Vista to record that sound may not be so easy.
Vista allows more than one audio device, a “feature” that usually makes
troubleshooting audio problems needlessly complicated (as evidenced by the
previous section). This is particularly true when recording sound, given that
Windows can only record from one source at a time.
A single audio device may have two or three audio inputs: an analog (mono)
microphone input, an analog stereo “Line-In” or auxiliary input, and sometimes a digital S/PDIF input. And special devices, like voice dictation headsets and TV tuner cards, have their own inputs. All the inputs for all your
audio devices are listed in Control Panel ➝ Sound ➝ Recording tab, shown
in Figure 4-11. (Most desktop sound cards also have internal inputs for CD
audio, discussed in the previous section, but these almost never show up in
Control Panel.)
To choose the default audio source, highlight the device you want to use
and click Set Default. Most applications will automatically use the default
device to record sound, but some (particularly voice-dictation software)
require that you choose a source separately in the application itself.
If you have a USB audio device, such as a voice-dictation
headset, Windows may set it as the default recording and
playback device each time you plug it in. This will make it
look like your sound stops working each time you use the
headset; of course, all you have to do is change the default
playback device, as described in the previous section.
Next, you’ll need to set the recording level (volume) of the device; most of
the time, the default level is 0 (off), which won’t produce any sound at all.
With the device highlighted, click Properties, choose the Levels tab and
move the slider to the right until the level is at least 50. While you’re here,
choose the Custom tab, and make sure the Do Not Monitor option is
turned off. Click OK when you’re done.
If you’re setting up a voice-dictation microphone, you may have to complete a separate wizard in the software itself to set the input source and its
recording level. For instance, if you’re using Vista’s built-in speech recognition feature, go to Control Panel ➝ Ease of Access ➝ Speech Recognition
Options ➝ Set up microphone.
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Figure 4-11. Most recording problems are caused by incorrect settings on this Control
Panel page
For best results when using voice-dictation software, use a
USB microphone/headset instead of the conventional type
that plugs directly into your sound card. Not only will the
quality and clarity improve, but you’ll effectively bypass the
often troublesome sound card drivers in favor of a more
direct link.
Fix Garbled Music
Your music not sounding its best? The most likely candidate is an “enhancement” in your music player; sometimes these just don’t play nice with
Vista’s audio drivers.
In Windows Media Player, press the Alt key to open the menu, and select
View ➝ Enhancements ➝ Graphic Equalizer. In the Enhancements pane
that appears, click the Turn off link that appears (if the link says Turn On,
the equalizer is already turned off). Next, return to the Enhancements
menu, select SRS WOW Effects, and click the Turn off link there as well.
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If you’re having this problem in iTunes, select View ➝ Show Equalizer, and
clear the checkbox next to the On option. Next, select Edit ➝ Preferences,
choose the Playback tab, and turn off the Sound Enhancer option. Click OK
when you’re done.
Or, in WinAmp, select Options ➝ Equalizer, and if there’s a checkbox next
to EQ enabled, turn it off.
Whether or not this adjustment fixes the problem, this is not a problem a
fully functional sound card should have. Make sure you have the latest drivers, and consider replacing the card if nothing else seems to work.
Crossfade Your Music
Crossfading is a feature present in Windows Media Player and other music
players that eliminates the gaps between songs by gradually overlapping
adjacent tracks. (Radio DJs do this, but they undoubtedly have better equipment than you do.) To enable crossfading, open Windows Media Player, go
to View ➝ Enhancements ➝ Crossfading and Auto Volume Leveling. On
the Enhancements pane that appears, click the Turn on Crossfading link
(Figure 4-12), and then adjust the amount of overlap to your liking.
Figure 4-12. Crossfading, which overlaps songs to reduce dead air, works only in certain
circumstances
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Crossfading only works on data files (such as MP3 or WMA), and then only
when the two songs are encoded with the same sampling rate (e.g., 192
Kbps or 256 Kbps). Crossfades won’t work if you are playing an ordinary
audio CD, or, for some reason, a data CD that was originally burned with
Windows Media Player.
Now, it’s possible that crossfading is actually working, but
you can’t tell because your music files have more than a few
seconds of silence at the beginning or end. To test the feature, try playing a few songs that don’t begin or end in a
fade. And try increasing the amount of overlap by moving
the crossfade slider to the right.
To enable crossfading in iTunes (which, ironically, is not something you can
do with an iPod), select Edit ➝ Preferences, choose the Playback tab, and
turn on the Crossfade playback option.
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Crossfading is really annoying when you’re listening to
spoken-word tracks or dialog from movie soundtracks. Try
it; you’ll see what I mean.
Extract Sound from Video
You’d think that sound and video are easily separable, especially given the
fact that they’re shown as separate entities in the timeline view in Windows
Movie Maker. No such luck, but it is possible with the right software.
The Windows Media Stream Editor, a component of the free Windows Media
Encoder (available from http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowsmedia/
forpros/encoder/default.mspx), can extract the audio from a .wmv video file and
save it into a standalone Windows Media Audio (.wma) file:
1. First, open the Windows Media Stream Editor and click Add Source.
Locate a .wmv or .asf file, and click Open.
2. Expand the branches by highlighting the file in the list and pressing the
asterisk (*) key, place a checkmark next to the Audio entry, and then
click Add.
3. Then, click Create File, specify an output filename, and click Save.
4. When you’re ready, click Start to begin the extraction.
When the process is complete, you’ll have a standard .wma file; see the next
section for ways to convert it to MP3 or any other format.
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To yank out the audio track from non-Microsoft video formats, you’ll need
a different program. A full-blown video editing application like Adobe Premiere (http://www.adobe.com) can do this handily, as can Blaze Media Pro
(http://www.blazemp.com), but if you want to do it for free, try the AoA
Audio Extractor (http://www.aoamedia.com/audioextractor.htm).
Convert Audio Files
You’d think after all these years, the tech industry would learn its lesson.
They put us through the Beta versus VHS battle in the 80s, the Netscape versus Internet Explorer battle in the 90s, and the HD DVD versus Blu-Ray battle in the naughts. On the computer front, the battle of the formats is
everywhere, including digital music.
It wasn’t always this way. At the beginning of the digital music revolution, it
was the compact file size and reasonably good quality of the MP3 file format that popularized portable digital players like the iPod (not to mention
P2P file sharing and the like, but that’s a different story). But now we have
Apple’s M4A, M4P, and lossless AAC formats; Microsoft’s various versions
of the WMA format; OGG Vorbis; Sony’s bygone ATRAC; and so on.
Granted, most of these formats have risen from the need to copy-protect
downloadable music, as well as offer audiophiles better fidelity, but the lack
of a single standard is nothing more than a pain in the neck to music lovers
everywhere.
Music purchased from Apple’s iTunes music store can only be played by
Apple iPods (and some Motorola phones). Very few players are compatible
with audio files from Microsoft’s URGE music store; even some of
Microsoft’s own Zune players can’t play URGE files! And there’s no music
player that’ll play all the commercially available formats.
So, in order to play all the music you have on any particular player, you may
have to convert some of it to the proper format, and that’s easier said than
done.
For one, converting anything other than lossless audio to your desired format will reduce the quality of the music. (Examples of lossless audio include
WAV files, Apple’s lossless AAC, and, of course, audio CD tracks.) Also,
most music purchased online is distributed in protected formats (like
iTunes’ M4P and Microsoft’s protected WMA), and neither Apple nor
Microsoft want you converting their content to an unprotected format. But
the good news is that where there’s a will, there’s a way.
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Apple’s iTunes software, (http://www.apple.com/itunes/) is free even if you
don’t have an iPod or any intention of buying music from the iTunes Music
Store, and it can convert songs easily and quickly. It supports MP3 (all
bitrates), AAC (.m4p, .m4a, and .m4b), AIFF, lossless AAC, and .wav files.
Here’s how to do it:
1. Start iTunes, and select Music from the Library section on the left.
2. If all your music isn’t already in the iTunes library, drag-drop your
music files onto the iTunes window.
If you move the files into your iTunes music folder before
dragging them into the iTunes application, iTunes will, by
default, organize them into folders based on their embedded
tag information. If the files are located elsewhere, they’ll be
left in their current locations.
4. Finally, highlight one or more songs in your music library, right-click,
and select Convert Selection to MP3 (or AAC, or whatever). Shortly
thereafter, iTunes will place the newly converted file alongside the original—both in the library and in same folder on your hard disk—while
leaving the original file intact.
Of course, neither iTunes nor Windows Media Player will let you convert
protected files, but they’ll both let you burn protected music to an audio
CD. Then, all you have to do is rip the CD back into an unprotected format. In fact, NoteBurner (http://www.noteburner.com) creates a virtual CDRW drive on your system specifically for this purpose, allowing you to burn
and rip your protected songs without wasting any discs. Unfortunately, the
burn-rip process will completely obliterate the embedded tags (meaning that
you’ll have to retype the track names and other information by hand).
By default, Windows Media Player adds DRM copy protection to all music files you rip from CDs. To turn this off,
open Windows Media Player, select Tools ➝ Options,
choose the Rip Music tab, and turn off the Copy protect
music option.
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3. Next, select Edit ➝ Preferences, choose the Advanced tab, and then
choose the Importing subtab. Select the file format you want to use
from the Format Using listbox (i.e., choose MP3 Encoder to convert to
the MP3 format), and then select a compression level from the Setting
listbox. (If you don’t know which settings to use, MP3 at 192kbps is a
good compromise among quality, flexibility, and resulting file size, and
the files you create can be played anywhere.) Click OK when you’re done.
To convert protected files and preserve your tags, you’ll need one of the dozens of different DRM removal tools available, such as Tunebite (http://www.
tunebite.de/) or MyFairTunes (http://www.hymn-project.org/).
Of course, no matter how you do it, there will always be a loss in quality
when you’re converting from one compressed format to another. The exception is when you convert a protected file to an unprotected file of the same
format, such as .m4p to .m4a or protected .wma to unprotected .wma, provided the software you use supports lossless conversion.
Fix Music Tags
Most music players, including both Windows Media Player and Apple
iTunes, pay no attention to the filenames of your music files, but rather read
the information (called tags) that are embedded therein. Most audio formats support tags for the artist, track, album, year, genre, and about a hundred other things. To get your music player to display and organize your
music properly, the tags in your music files must be correct, and unless all
your music came from the same source, some tag cleaning is often in order.
Most music library programs allow you to edit the tags of your music files.
Windows Media Player (via the Advanced Tag Editor feature) as well as
iTunes (discussed earlier in this chapter) even let you modify the tags of several files at once. You can even edit tags for individual files right in Windows Explorer (see Chapter 2), or multiple files if you install the AudioShell
extension (http://softpointer.com/).
But what if you have a lot of music files without any tags at all? Try to
import those files into a program like iTunes, and you’ll just end up with
countless tracks labeled “Unknown Artist.” The solution is to use the filenames to generate the tags, and for this, you can use Ultra Tag Editor (http://
www.atelio.com/):
1. Open Ultra Tag Editor, use the tree to navigate to the folder containing
your files, and place checkmarks next to the specific files you want to
fix.
2. Below, choose the Ultra Tagger tab, and then, from the Action listbox,
select Generate Tag from Filename (Figure 4-13).
3. Now, Ultra Tag Editor needs you to tell it where in your songs’ filenames to find the artist name, track title, track number, album name, and
so on, so you’ll need to examine the filename of a typical music file on
your hard disk, which might look something like Artist–Album–Title.mp3.
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Figure 4-13. Use the Ultra Tag Editor to generate MP3 tags from filenames
Although programs like Ultra Tag Editor are flexible, they do
require that your filenames be uniform (i.e., all using the
“Artist–Track.mp3” format, for instance). Since you likely
have a mish-mash of different filenames, you’ll need a program like Power Rename (part of Creative Element Power
Tools, http://www.creativelement.com/powertools/) to fix up
your filenames with ease, without resorting to manually
renaming individual files.
First, determine the delimiter used to separate the information in your
filenames (a hyphen, –, in this case), and type it into the Delimiters
field. Next, type %1 into the field containing the first piece of information (e.g., Artist), %2 into the field containing the second (e.g.,
Album), %3 for the third (e.g., Title), and so on. (Imagine your files
look like %1-%2-%3-%4....mp3).
4. When you’re done, click the Generate button to preview the new tags,
and click Write Tags to commit your changes.
Ultra Tag Editor can also go the other direction—that is, to generate filenames based on tags. Better yet, both Windows Media Player and Apple
iTunes can organize your music into folders (e.g., \Music\Artist\Album)
based on the embedded tag information.
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Photos, Pictures, Images
To Microsoft’s credit, Vista’s built-in support for photos is much better than
XP’s, and it’s about time. It would be even better if it all worked properly.
For instance, Windows Explorer has a nifty thumbnail display, along with
the handy Views pull-down that lets you quickly scale the thumbnails or
switch to the Details view (Figure 4-14). Now, Explorer is supposed to
choose the default view for each folder based on its contents, but the chimpanzee who wrote the code should’ve been better trained. It’s not unusual to
see a folder full of Microsoft Access .mdb files shown as thumbnails, while a
folder full of photos is shown in the Details view!
Figure 4-14. Vista has a much-improved thumbnail display but has trouble remembering
when to use it
When Explorer gets it wrong, it’s easy enough to click the Views button to
cycle through the various display modes (or click the arrow to choose a view
from the list), but it’s more effective to change Windows Explorer’s perception of the folder. Right-click the folder, choose the Customize tab
(Figure 4-15), and from the Use this folder type as a template list, choose
one of the five available templates.
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Figure 4-15. Use the Customize tab to choose a display template for the selected folder,
but don’t forget to customize the template
Here’s where it gets a little confusing. First, a template is a collection of
folder display settings that includes the view (e.g., Large Icons, Details, etc.),
the sorting method, and the columns displayed. But you can’t change any of
these settings here. Nor can you add or remove templates or change the
rules Windows uses when it picks a template automatically (hence the problems just outlined).
Next, the templates themselves don’t make a whole lot of sense:
All Items
Basically the default view, Explorer uses this template when there’s no
specific reason to use one of the others. The columns shown by default
are Name, Date Modified, Type, and Size.
Documents
Used for the Documents folder and all of its subfolders, this template is
identical to the All Items template, except for the addition of the Tags
column.
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Pictures and Videos
A thumbnail display by default, this template is shown for folders containing photo and video files. The columns shown are predominantly
for photos, though: Name, Date Taken, Tags, Size, and Rating. (If you
want columns useful for video files, such as Duration and Frame rate,
you’ll have to add them yourself.)
Music Details
Shown by default for music files (e.g., MP3 and WMA files), this shows
files in Details view, making Explorer look somewhat like iTunes’ music
library listing. The default columns are Name, Artists, Album, #,
Genre, and Rating. (Most of the columns get their information from the
tags embedded in the music files, as described in “Fix Music Tags,” earlier in this chapter.)
Music Icons
This is exactly the same as Music Details, except the files are shown as
thumbnails (Large Icons) by default. Why Microsoft felt the need to
have two different music templates, yet only a single template for both
photos and video files, is anybody’s guess.
So, how do you put these to use? The key is to not accept Vista’s defaults,
but rather to customize each template so that the view Explorer shows you
is more likely to be the one you’ll want. Here’s how you do it:
1. Find a folder with files that are uniquely representative of a certain kind
of content, like a bunch of photos or a collection of music files, and
open it in a new window.
2. Right-click the folder in the tree to your left, select Properties, and then
choose the Customize tab.
3. Choose a template that most closely matches the contents of the selected
folder (i.e., Pictures and Videos for a folder containing .jpg files).
The Also apply this template to all subfolders option here is
particularly handy in that it allows you to customize an
entire branch of folders. For instance, you might store all
your digital photos in various subfolders of the Pictures
folder, but this option ensures that they’re all shown as
thumbnails while preserving the more useful Details view for
other types of content.
4. Click OK to close the Properties window.
5. Use the Views drop-down to set a view you find suitable for the files in
this folder (e.g., Large Icons for photos).
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6. Right-click the column headers in the right pane, select More, and then
place checkmarks next to all the columns you’d like shown. When
you’re done, click OK, and then use your mouse to rearrange and resize
the columns to taste.
7. Sort the listing by clicking the appropriate column; click a second time
to reverse the sort order.
8. When the folder looks the way you want all folders of this kind to look,
click Organize and then select Folder and Search Options.
9. Choose the View tab, click Apply to Folders, answer Yes, and then
click OK.
This will save your changes to the active template so that the next folder you
view with similar content (at least in theory) will be displayed with the same
view settings. This change won’t affect any other templates.
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Aside from templates, Windows Explorer can remember the
view settings for the 30 or so most recently viewed folders. In
Explorer, click Organize and then select Folder and Search
Options. Choose the View tab, turn on the Remember each
folder’s view settings option, and then click OK. Of course,
if you want to make sure your templates are always used,
then turn off this option.
Although Vista is very good about remembering your customizations to each
of its templates, it’s not very good about remembering which template to use
for a given folder, nor will it reliably choose the appropriate template based
on the contents. There are two ways around this.
First, if you don’t foresee the need for thumbnails or special columns for
music or other media, then you may just as well customize each of the five
templates exactly the same way. That is, repeat the nine steps earlier in this
section for each template, choosing the same view, sort, and column settings each time. That way, no matter which template Windows picks, you’ll
get the view you want every single time.
The other way you can help Windows choose templates appropriately is to
be diligent about where you store your media files. For instance, if you put
all your digital photos in the Pictures folder—or, designate the folder where
your pictures are stored as the official Pictures folder, as described in the
next section—then Windows Explorer will be more likely to use the correct
template. Of course, it isn’t foolproof, but in Windows Vista, what is?
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Choose a New Pictures Folder
One way Windows helps you organize your files is to direct different kinds
of content to different locations. There’s a Music folder, a Videos folder, a
Saved Games folder, and a Pictures folder. Put all your digital pictures in
your Pictures folder, for example, and that’s where most photo applications
will prompt you to open and save your files. And as explained in the previous section, Windows Explorer will be more likely to display your pictures
as thumbnails if they’re in the Pictures folder (or a subfolder thereof). But
what if you don’t want to put your pictures there?
Since years of digital photos can take up gobs of hard disk space, many people have started storing their pictures (as well as their music) on second hard
disks, and it can be a pain to have to manually switch to the new location
each time you need to open or save a file.
The solution is to tell Windows where your Pictures folder ought to be, a
task that requires a quick Registry modification:
1. Open the Registry Editor (described in Chapter 3).
2. Expand
the branches to HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\
Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\User Shell Folders.
Also in the Explorer branch of the Registry is the Shell
Folders key. According to Microsoft, the key is no longer
used in Vista, although you may want to update it as well for
good measure. (You never know which applications may still
be reading from it.)
3. Double-click the My Pictures value in the right pane, and type (or paste)
the full path of the folder you want to use (e.g., d:\Photos). (The default
here is %USERPROFILE%\Pictures, which is an expandable string value that
points to the Pictures subfolder of your personal profile folder.)
4. Click OK and then close the Registry Editor when you’re done.
5. Next, open Windows Explorer, open your profile folder (the one matching your user name at the top of the tree), and select the Pictures folder
inside.
6. Right-click the desktop.ini file and select Copy. (This file is hidden; see
Chapter 2 for details on setting up Windows Explorer to show hidden
files.)
7. Navigate to your new pictures folder (e.g., d:\Photos), right-click an
empty area of the folder, and select Paste.
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The change should take effect immediately, but you may have to restart any
open applications before they’ll recognize the new location. (Strictly speaking, the copying of desktop.ini in steps 5–7 is optional, but it does help Windows Explorer display the folders properly.) To test the change, open
Microsoft Paint (mspaint.exe), and select File ➝ Open. If the folder that
appears is the folder you chose, then you’re all done.
You can change the locations of other “special” folders with the same technique. For instance, put the location of your MP3 collection into the My
Music value. Or, put the location of your Media Center recordings into the
My Video value.
Get Thumbnails for RAW Photos
Windows understands a bunch of common image and movie formats out of
the box, and can produce thumbnails for your files in Medium, Large, and
Extra Large Icons views. To get Windows to recognize a new format,
though, you need to install the appropriate Windows Imaging Component
(WIC) codec.
Once you’ve set up your digital SLR camera to produce “RAW” images (as
opposed to the lesser JPEG or TIFF formats), you can install one of these
codecs to get Windows to display thumbnails for your files:
Canon CR2
http://www.usa.canon.com/opd/controller?act=OPDSupportVistaAct
Nikon NEF
http://www.nikonimglib.com/nefcodec/
Olympus ORF
http://www.olympus.co.jp/en/support/imsg/digicamera/download/
software/codec/
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Of course, sometimes you’ll have to make a few other changes, depending
on the applications you have installed. A classic example is Apple’s iTunes
software. Now, to Apple’s credit, you can change the location of your music
folder easily by going to Edit ➝ Preferences ➝ Advanced tab, but iTunes will
continue to store your music library files in your official Music folder. To
convince it to put everything in your preferred location, open up the Registry Editor, expand the branches to HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Apple
Computer, Inc.\iTunes, double-click the Win2KMyMusicFolder value, and type
(or paste) the full path to your new music folder. See Chapter 3 for a way to
quickly search the Registry for other occurrences of %USERPROFILE%\Music
that might be present, in order to completely commit Windows to the new
location.
Pentax PEF
http://www.pentax.co.jp/english/support/digital/rawcodec_vista.html
Sony SRF
http://support.d-imaging.sony.co.jp/www/cyber-shot/download/raw_
driver_e/
If your camera isn’t supported, or if the appropriate codec doesn’t work, try
the free ArcSoft RAW Thumbnail Viewer, available at http://www.arcsoft.com/
products/rawviewer/. It adds thumbnail support to Vista for RAW formats
from Canon, Hasselblad, Kodak, Leica, Mamiya, Nikon, Olympus, Pentax,
Ricoh, Samsung, Sigma, and Sony, and even works with Adobe Digital Negative (DNG) files.
The alternative is to use a separate picture viewer with its own thumbnail
display, like Google’s free Picasa manager (http://picasa.google.com/), or
commercial products like Adobe Photoshop Elements (http://www.adobe.com/)
and DxO Optics Pro (http://dxo.com/).
To add thumbnail support for new video formats, just install the latest video
codecs, covered later in this chapter, and Vista will do the rest.
Get Rid of the Windows Photo Gallery
Like the Windows Picture and Fax Viewer found in Windows XP, Vista’s
own Windows Photo Gallery application is not easy to get rid of. You can
install a new application that makes itself the default for your image files,
and in some cases, the Windows Photo Gallery will still appear when you
double-click image files.
If you want to use another image viewer without making any
changes to your system, there are ways to open images other
than double-clicking. For instance, you can drag-drop an
image file onto the window of any viewer to open it, or even
right-click an image file and select Open With to choose
another program.
To choose a different application as the default for photos, you may have to
disable the Windows Photo Gallery:
1. Open the Registry Editor (described in Chapter 3).
2. Expand the branches to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\SystemFileAssociations\.ico\
ShellEx\ContextMenuHandlers\ShellImagePreview.
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3. Highlight the ShellImagePreview key, select File ➝ Export, type a filename, and click Save to back up this Registry key. (See Chapter 3 for
details.)
4. Delete the ShellImagePreview key and close the Registry Editor when
you’re done.
If you don’t want to mess around in the Registry, you can also do this with
Creative Element Power Tools (http://www.creativelement.com/powertools/):
1. Open the Creative Element Power Tools Control Panel, turn on the Edit
file type associations option, click Accept, and then close the Control
Panel.
2. Right-click any image file and select Edit File Type.
3. On the right side, right-click Windows Photo Gallery Viewer Image
Verbs, and select Open Registry Editor here.
5. With Windows Photo Gallery Viewer Image Verbs still highlighted,
click the Remove button.
To re-enable the Windows Photo Gallery at any time, just double-click the
Registry patch you created.
Microsoft in its infinite wisdom created a new image file format to be released along with Windows Vista, called HD
Photo. (I think that makes about 60 formats we now get to deal
with.) Unfortunately, very few applications support this format, so if you need to routinely view these files (with the .hdp
filename extension), you may want to keep Windows Photo
Gallery intact for this purpose. Of course, you could always
manually edit the .hdp file type and add the
ShellImagePreview key to its ContextMenuHandlers key, allowing you to freely disable Windows Photo Gallery for all other
formats. See Chapter 3 for details on the structure of file
types.
Get Accurate Color Output
Ever notice that the colors in digital photos you view on your PC don’t quite
match the real thing, or even the colors on the little screen on the back of
your digital camera? Or, have you noticed that the colors your printer
reproduces don’t match those on your monitor?
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4. In the Registry Editor, select File ➝ Export, type a filename, and then
click Save to back up this Registry key. Close the Registry Editor to
return to File Type Doctor.
This is a common problem, and one, unfortunately, without a clear-cut,
foolproof solution. The problem is that your monitor, printer, scanner, and
digital camera all handle color a little differently. It’s up to you to calibrate
Windows so that all of these devices know what subtle adjustments they
need to make to preserve your colors without botching your photos too
badly.
Before you do anything, make sure your display adapter
(video card) is set to the highest color depth it supports.
Right-click an empty portion of the desktop, select Personalize, and then click Display Settings. From the Colors dropdown list, select Highest (32 bit). If the Resolution slider to
the left drops when you do this, see Chapter 5.
First, you’ll need to gamma-correct your monitor, which helps ensure that
its brightness and color balance are optimized for your setup. Many higherend monitors have gamma adjustment features, but barring that, you can
use the free QuickGamma utility (Figure 4-16), available at http://
quickgamma.de/indexen.html. (A similar utility also comes with Adobe Photoshop, although the author of QuickGamma claims that it’s more accurate.)
The process essentially involves adjusting a few controls until two different
grayish regions appear indistinguishable when you squint. If you’re a perfectionist, you should elect to adjust red, green, and blue values independently.
Next, open Control Panel and then Color Management. Each imaging
device on your system should be accompanied by a matching International
Color Consortium (ICC) profile, and the Color Management window,
shown in Figure 4-17, is where you manage these files.
Start with your monitor; select it from the Device list, and then click Add. If
you’re lucky, you’ll see a matching profile in the list (having been installed
with your driver); otherwise, you’ll have to dig up the correct ICC profile
from the manufacturer of your monitor and then install it by clicking the
Browse button here.
If you have trouble finding ICC profiles from the manufacturers of your monitor, scanner, printer, or camera, try a site like
Chromix (http://www.chromix.com) or IPhotoICC (http://
www.littlecms.com/iphoto/profiles.htm). Of course, you can
also search Google for your specific product and model, like
this: Epson 1520 ICC.
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Figure 4-16. Use QuickGamma to adjust your monitor so colors are displayed more
accurately
In some cases, you may find more than one ICC profile for your device, each
differentiated with a numeric code like D93 or 6500K. These numbers indicate the color temperature, a number that describes the color of light emitted by the light source, specifically a theoretical object called a blackbody
radiator. (In the real world, the closest analog is the sun.) The K numbers
indicate temperatures in degrees Kelvin (e.g., 5000K, 6500K, 9300K) while the D
numbers indicate standard illuminants (colors of light) corresponding to
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Figure 4-17. The Color Management window is a new, central interface for installing and
configuring ICC profiles in Windows Vista
specific correlated color temperatures (CCT). If in doubt, choose 5000K or
D50, both of which correspond to “soft daylight.”
When the new ICC profile shows up in the Profiles associated with this
device list, highlight it and click Set as Default Profile.
When you’re done with your monitor, repeat the process for your printer(s)
and scanner(s). In most cases, you’ll want to use the same color temperature (D or K value) for each ICC profile you use.
Now, your digital camera does things a little differently. If it’s like most
cameras, it should store the appropriate ICC information in the EXIF data
(discussed in the next section) embedded into each photo file you shoot.
And most high-end applications, such as modern versions of Adobe Photoshop, should be capable of reading these tags and putting them to use. But
in the unlikely event that your camera is included in the Device list, and you
have an ICC profile provided by your camera’s manufacturer, then you can
go ahead and install it just like the others.
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Now, playing with gamma correction and color profiles will only take you
so far. Variations in ink or toner, as well as paper, can all affect color
reproduction on a printer, and the lighting in your room can affect how
color looks on your monitor, so you’ll have to employ a little trial and error
to get the desired results. Professionals use more sophisticated tools, such as
colorimeters, to get better color matching, not to mention higher-quality
monitors, printers, and scanners. So, don’t be surprised if you don’t get perfect color every time.
Sort Photos Chronologically
Let me guess. You just had this big party (say, a wedding or commitment
ceremony), and you’ve gotten hundreds of photos from a dozen different
people. But when you stick them all in the same folder and sort them by
date, they’re all out of order.
But aren’t you lucky you live in an enlightened age of obsessive photographers and feature-laden gadgets? Embedded in each digital photo is a goldmine of information stored by the camera as part of the EXIF (EXchangeable
Image File) format used in .jpg files, .tif files, and raw formats like Nikon’s
.nef files. EXIF data includes the date and time the photo was taken, the
camera settings used (f-stop, exposure, metering mode), the photographer’s
name (sometimes), and the dimensions of the image. If the camera supports
it, even GPS data indicating the exact geographical location of the camera
when the photo was shot can be included.
To view EXIF data for a single photo, highlight the image file in Windows
Explorer, and then stretch the Details pane until it looks like Figure 4-18.
If you don’t see a Details pane, click the Organize drop-down and select
Layout ➝ Details Pane.
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The Date Modified column in Windows Explorer (go to View ➝ Details if
you don’t see it) probably won’t reliably sort your photos. If the photographer did any post-processing (e.g., color correction, cropping, retouching) in
a program like Photoshop, the file’s date will reflect the last time the file was
saved, not when the photo was originally shot. Also, file dates and times are
typically set when a digital camera saves photos to its memory card, not necessarily when the photos are taken. (The discrepancy occurs because many
high-end cameras hold the shots in memory before saving them.)
Figure 4-18. Windows Explorer shows all the EXIF information embedded in your digital
photos, if you know where to look
Of course, you won’t find EXIF data in scans of film, nor in
digital photos that were modified by software that doesn’t
support the format. For the record, recent versions of Adobe
Photoshop and Paint Shop Pro, and even Vista’s measly little Paint program, retain all EXIF data in most circumstances, but many older programs and image converters do
not. If in doubt, run a little test before you modify any precious photos: open a photo in your program and save it to a
new filename. If the information shows up in Windows
Explorer when you highlight the new file, then your software is safe to use.
If you select more than one file, Explorer will only show the data the
selected files have in common in the Details pane. To view selective EXIF
data for a bunch of photos at once, right-click the column header bar in
Windows Explorer and select More. Place a checkmark next to any new
details you’d like to display, and click OK. Unfortunately, the details aren’t
organized at all here; the EXIF data is mixed in with MP3 tags, and other
things like Search ranking and Parental rating reason. But with a little digging, you should be able to find the relevant bits, like Dimensions, Camera
model, and, thankfully, Date Picture Taken.
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Now, sort the photos chronologically by clicking the Date Picture Taken
column header. Voilà!
But what if you want to make this sorting more permanent? Use the free
Stamp utility (http://www.snapfiles.com/get/stamp.html) to rename your files
with their EXIF dates. After you do this, your photos will appear in chronological order even when sorted alphabetically.
What Stamp doesn’t do, unfortunately, is allow you to compensate for the
differences among the various cameras’ internal clocks. The discrepancies
might be as small as three or four minutes among your local guests, or several hours for the party guest who last set up his or her camera in a different
time zone. As a result, your photos won’t sort properly even after you use
Stamp, a problem requiring the following three-part fix:
1. First, download the free trial of Creative Element Power Tools (available at http://www.creativelement.com/powertools/), and turn on the
Change file dates and Rename files with ease options.
3. Choose the Date/Time from file metadata option, select Date & time
photo taken by digital camera from the list, and then click Accept. This
will change all the file dates so they exactly match the dates and times
the photos were taken.
4. Next, you’ll need to determine the discrepancies among your photographers. Pick one photographer to use as the baseline, and then figure out
how far off every other photographer is from that baseline. To do this,
you’ll need to find common points of reference: one or two representative photos of the same instant by each of your photographers. (The
more photos you have, the easier this will be.) After a minute or so of
studying, you might find that, say, Kathryn’s camera was about 3 hours
faster than the baseline, while Henry’s camera was 6 minutes, 11 seconds slower. (If you’re not as compulsive as I am, you don’t necessarily
need to get it down to the exact second.)
5. To fix the dates, pick a photographer (other than the baseline you chose
in step 4), and highlight all of that person’s photos. Right-click the files
and select Change Date.
6. This time, choose the Relative Date/Time option and then make your
adjustments with the controls below, like the example in Figure 4-19.
Click Accept when you’re done.
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2. Highlight all the photos you want to fix, right-click, and select Change
Date.
Figure 4-19. Use the Change Date tool to fix discrepancies among the times of different
photographers’ digital photos
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 for everyone else’s photos. When you’re done, the
photos should be in perfect order when sorted by Modified Date (but
not Date Taken, at least not yet).
8. To update the EXIF data with your new dates, use AttributeMagic Pro
(http://www.attributemagic.com/). Select the recently modified files in
the main window, use the Change Dates feature, and instruct it to set
“date taken” (exif) to “modified” (file system).
If you don’t feel comfortable messing with your photos’ valuable EXIF
tags, you can alternatively change only the filenames, as described next.
At this point, all your photos should appear in chronological order when
sorted by modified date or date taken, but depending on what you plan to
do with your pictures, this may not be enough.
Are you uploading your photos to an online photo sharing/printing service?
Or perhaps you’re handing them off to someone else to sift through and
possibly modify them? If you want to make sure your careful date manipulations remain intact, you may want to tag your filenames as well.
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You can do this with Stamp, as described earlier, but only if you’ve updated
the EXIF dates as described in step 8, previously. But if you want to rename
your photos without changing any EXIF data, you’ll need Power Rename
(also part of Creative Element Power Tools) to tag the filenames with their
modified dates. To do this, highlight all the photos, right-click, and select
Power Rename.
If you’ve already renamed the photos with Stamp, place a
checkmark next to Power Rename’s Crop option, select
from beginning, and type a number representing the amount
of text to remove. This will get rid of Stamp’s addition to the
filename and make room for Power Rename’s own Add
stamp feature.
yyyy-mm-dd_hh-mm-ss
For example, Power Rename would take a file with the date August 28, 2005
at 4:53:06 pm and add this to the beginning of the filename:
2005-08-28_16-53-06
Click OK and then the Accept button to rename the files. With all your photos date- and time-corrected and renamed accordingly, they’ll appear in
chronological order in almost any circumstance.
Media Center Annoyances
If you have the Home Premium or Ultimate edition of Windows Vista, then
you also have the Windows Media Center component, which allows you to
use your PC and some sort of TV tuner card as a DVR (Digital Video
Recorder). Commonly known as a TiVo™ (just as a novelty flying disc is
commonly known as a Frisbee™), a DVR lets you pause, rewind, and record
live television broadcasts.
Of course, you don’t have to stick with Media Center. If you don’t like the
program, if it crashes too often, or if you have only the Home Basic, Business, or Enterprise edition of Vista, you can try any of several alternatives.
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In Power Rename, place a checkmark next to the Add stamp option, select
file date & time, and then click the Format button. From the Choose a format list, select Custom format and then use the date/time placeholders from
the list to assemble a date format conducive to sorting. Your best bet is to
start with the year (yy or yyyy), followed by the month, day, hour, minute,
and finally, the second, like this:
Free DVR software includes GB-PVR (http://www.gbpvr.com) and MediaPortal
(http://mediaportal.sourceforge.net). Commercial products, while not necessarily better than their free counterparts, include Meedio (http://www.
meedio.com), SnapStream BeyondTV (http://www.snapstream.com), and
SageTV (http://www.sage.tv).
Each product has its advantages and disadvantages. When choosing a media
center application, the most important consideration is an on-screen interface you like. Aside from that, it should support HD programming and DVD
burning, work with a wide variety of remote controls, accept plug-ins or
extensions that add functionality (such as news readers and weather forecasters), and not crash.
Watch TV on Your TV
Unless you like watching TV on a 16-inch screen while sitting at your desk,
you probably want to hook up your Media Center PC to a real television set.
Unfortunately, this is not always as easy as it sounds.
When you connect a TV to your computer (or is it the other way around?),
you should see your entire desktop, Start menu, et al., on the big screen. If
you see nothing at all, your video card’s TV port may be disabled. If you’re
using a laptop, you may have to press a special keystroke combination to
“activate” the TV-out and external VGA ports. On some Dell laptops, for
instance, hold the Fn key while pressing F8 to switch between the internal
display, the external display, and both; consult your computer’s documentation for details. Press these keys repeatedly until you see a picture.
If you see everything except the video rectangle on the big
screen, then you have a video overlay problem. See “Fix
Other Playback Problems,” earlier in this chapter, for details.
Next, make sure you’re using the right kind of cable, and with cabling,
there’s certainly no shortage of possibilities.
The first rule of mating a PC to a TV is to keep it all digital, if you can. If
your PC has a DVI port (standard on all new desktop PCs and upscale laptops) and you have a high-definition television set, you can do precisely that.
If your computer doesn’t have a DVI port, you’ll need to replace your video
card with one that does. If you’re using a laptop, you’ll need a DVIequipped video card for your ExpressCard slot (or PC Card, if it’s an older
model), and these can be very spendy.
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Now, any modern HD television set will either have a DVI or HDMI plug
(tired of acronyms yet?). If it’s DVI, then it’s a simple matter of connecting
your PC to your TV with an ordinary DVI monitor cable. HDMI, luckily,
is basically the same thing as DVI, albeit with audio, and you can get
HDMI-to-DVI adapters readily from small, mom-and-pop computer stores
or on eBay.
As you’re setting up your nifty, all-digital home theater PC
system, you may hit a roadblock in the form of HDCP
(High-bandwith Digital Content Protection). HDCP is a
nasty form of copy protection imposed upon high-definition
content, such as that from an HD DVD or Blu-Ray drive, or
HD cable signal. (For those interested, there’s a rant about
this in the preface.) An in-depth discussion of HDCP is
beyond the scope of this book, but suffice it to say, it may be
the reason you’re getting a black screen instead of the movie
you’re trying to play.
Many HDTVs have only a single digital (HDMI or DVI)
input, which may already be occupied (if you’re lucky) by a
DVD player with a digital output. If you don’t want to settle
for an analog connection between your PC and TV, you’ll
need a HDMI or DVI switch, the best examples of which can
be found in some high-end digital home theater receivers.
If your TV is not high-def, or if for whatever reason digital just isn’t going to
work, then you’ve got to go analog.
If your PC has a TV-out port, it might accept a standard S-Video plug, or
barring that, an ordinary RCA plug. (If it has a proprietary connector, you
may need a special adapter from your PC manufacturer—at extra cost, of
course.)
If your computer lacks a dedicated TV-out port, see whether your TV has a
15-pin analog VGA port, in which case you can simply use a VGA-to-VGA
cable and connect your TV like a monitor. Otherwise, your PC may support
TV-out directly through its VGA port (an admittedly uncommon feature), in
which case you can get a VGA-to-RCA or VGA-to-S-Video adapter pretty
cheaply on eBay.
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If your TV has no digital video inputs—or if they’re already being used—
your next-best option is to use a DVI-to-composite adapter (also available
on eBay). Although your TV’s composite inputs are analog (not digital), they
do support 16:9 wide format and progressive-scan video, which will still
look a lot better than S-Video or (gasp) RCA connectors.
So, to sum up, here are the connection methods you can try, in order from
best to worst.
Computer side
Television side
Signal
16:9 supported?
DVI
DVI or HDMI
Digital
Yes
DVI
composite
Analog
Yes
VGA or DVI-to-VGA
VGA
Analog
Maybe
S-Video
S-Video
Analog
No
RCA
RCA
Analog
No
Once you’ve got the cabling in order, the next step is to set the resolution on
your PC to optimize the picture quality. Set it too low, and it’ll look pixelated;
set it too high, and you might have overscanning problems (where the video
runs off the screen). If in doubt, try a few standard resolutions until you
have one that looks good; 1024 × 768 usually works pretty well. If you still
have trouble, use PowerStrip (http://entechtaiwan.net/util/ps.shtm) to find the
optimal resolution and timing settings for your TV.
Fix Broken TV Listings
A DVR without up-to-date TV listings is nothing more than a playback
device; to record your favorite programs, your PC needs to download program data at least once a day. Windows Media Center and other DVR applications do this automatically, but only after you’ve set them up properly. If
you’re not getting updated listings, or if your listings are wrong, here are
some things you can do to fix the problem.
First, make sure your PC’s clock is set correctly: open Control Panel ➝ Date
and Time, and set the clock if needed. Click Apply and then choose the
Internet Time tab, click Change settings, and make sure the Synchronize
with an Internet time server option is turned on.
Next, your zip code in Media Center might be wrong, thus the program data
you’re receiving is intended for a different region. Or you may be using an
antenna, yet downloading programming data intended for cable or satellite
broadcasts. In Media Center, choose Settings ➝ General ➝ Media Center
Setup ➝ Set Up TV Signal, and follow the prompts. When asked whether
you’d like to configure your TV signal automatically, select the I will manually configure my TV signal option. On the next page, choose whether your
signal comes from cable, satellite, or antenna (terrestrial broadcast), after
which you’ll be prompted to set up your TV Program Guide. When
prompted, type your zip code, and then click Next to confirm your choices
and download the programming data for your area.
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Capture HDTV Programming
So, you’ve managed to cobble together a pure digital video signal from your
PC to your high-definition television, but your broadcast programming still
looks like a 20-year-old VHS recording.
Most TV tuners can only receive standard-definition signals. If you want
high-def programming, you’ll need a few things, starting with a true HDTV
tuner card.
In North America, you’ll need an ATSC tuner; in Japan, the standard is ARIB,
and in Europe, it’s DVB. These HD tuner cards will receive terrestrial (over
the air) broadcasts, but not necessarily cable or satellite broadcasts. For that,
you’ll likely need an HD tuner with a cable card slot or a QAM tuner; contact
your cable/satellite provider for details.
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While the tuner is the most important component, there are other pieces of
the HD puzzle. For instance, HD broadcasts use a lot more data, which
means you’ll need a fast processor (at least 2.4 Ghz or equivalent) for simultaneous capture and playback, required for basic timeshifting of HD programming. And you’ll need a larger hard disk, too; while an hour of standard
definition (SD) programming typically consumes 1 GB of disk space, that
same hour of HD programming will eat up about 10 times as much space.
Thus that shiny new 300 GB hard disk will only get you about 25–30 hours
of HD storage.
Finally, don’t expect just any video card to be capable of displaying highdefinition, full-motion video on a high-resolution display. If your HD video
plays smoothly in a video, but is jerky when shown full-screen, it’s time for
a display adapter upgrade.
Of course, it’s possible that all your settings are correct, but you’re still getting bad data. In this case, you’ll need to determine the severity of the problem. If only a single program or a single channel is off, it could be a
temporary glitch or last-minute programming change. Try manually downloading the latest programming data to iron out any such discrepancies.
From the main Media Center menu, choose Settings ➝ TV ➝ Guide ➝ Get
Latest Guide Listings.
But if all your program data is off, you’ll have to be a bit sneaky about it.
The simplest solution is to spoof a different location by entering an adjacent
zip code to your own; you may have to try a few different codes to find the
one that delivers the data you need. If all else fails, try different DVR software (listed at the beginning of this section), which may get its data from a
different source.
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CD and DVD Drives
The first CD burner I ever saw was the size of a small microwave oven. It
took 68 minutes to fill a 68-minute CD, and it produced more coasters than
Six Flags. Suffice it to say, things have improved, although after a few minutes of trying to burn a disc in Vista, you’d be hard pressed to tell.
I’ll just come out and say it: the CD/DVD burning feature built into Windows Vista just doesn’t work. Sure, I’ll get some bafflingly defensive emails
from a handful of readers, but if you can show me a CD-R with readable
data created by Windows Vista, I’ll eat my hat.
In theory, it goes like this:
1. Open Windows Explorer.
2. Place a blank disc in your burner, and close the drawer.
3. Highlight your CD/DVD drive in the tree, and the Burn a Disc window
appears. Click Show formatting options to show the expanded window
in Figure 4-20.
Figure 4-20. Open this window each and every time you make a CD in Vista, or the disc
you make may not be readable
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4. Select the Mastered option and click Next to make the Burn a Disc window go away.
Unless you’re absolutely certain you’re only going to be
using this disc on Vista PCs, don’t ever use the Live File System. Despite Microsoft’s overly optimistic language here,
discs formatted with the “Live” filesystem (also known as
UDF) won’t be readable on older PCs, Macs, or just about
anything else. And if you skip steps 3 and 4 here, and instead
just start dragging files onto your disc, Windows will use the
Live File System without asking. (Naturally, there’s no way
to change the default.)
5. Drag some files or folders onto your CD/DVD drive.
6. When you’re done dragging files, click the Burn to disc button (or rightclick the CD/DVD drive and select Burn to disc), and then follow the
prompts.
If this is happening to you, do yourself a favor and skip the part where you
try to diagnose the problem. Instead, just use any other CD/DVD burning
software to make your discs, and you’ll never look back:
• You can burn ordinary data CDs and data DVDs with Express Burn,
available for free from http://www.nch.com.au/. If you want more pizzazz,
try a commercial solution, such as Roxio Easy Media Creator (http://
www.roxio.com/), Ashampoo Burning Studio (http://www.ashampoo.
com/), or Nero (http://www.nero.com/).
• You can make audio CDs right in Windows Media Player, as well as
Apple iTunes, by creating a custom playlist, and then burning the playlist to a disc.
• You can make DVD movies from your TV recordings from within Windows Media Center.
• To burn discs from ISO image files, as well as create ISO files from
discs, use ISO Recorder (free; http://isorecorder.alexfeinman.com).
With the proper disc burning software, now all that can go wrong is everything else.
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At this point, Windows Explorer will crash. Or, maybe you’ll get lucky, and
nothing at all will happen (no CD, no messages, nothing).
Troubleshoot CD and DVD Playback Problems
Not getting the quality and reliability you expect from your audio CDs and
video DVDs? Here are some common problems and possible solutions:
Poor audio CD quality
If you hear pops, squeaks, or clicks in your audio CDs, check your source
music files to make sure they sound OK. If the tracks are originally from a
CD, re-rip any songs that have pops, squeaks, or any quality problems.
Another cause of poor sound quality on audio CDs is a mismatch between
the rated speed of your discs and the actual speed at which you burned
your music. If you’re using 4X-rated CDs in an 24X burner, or vice-versa,
you could have problems. Again, higher-quality media is less likely to suffer from this problem, but if all else fails, get slower CDs or a faster burner.
Volume inconsistencies
If your audio CD plays, but the songs all seem to be different volumes,
there’s not necessarily anything wrong. This is merely a fact of life when
you mix audio files from different sources; some songs will naturally be
louder than others. The best solution is to use the volume-leveling feature in your media player software.
In Windows Media Player, press the Alt key, select Tools ➝ Options,
choose the Burn tab, and turn on the Apply volume leveling across
tracks on the CD option. Or, in iTunes, select Edit ➝ Preferences,
choose the Advanced tab and then the Burning subtab, and turn on the
Use Sound Check option.
Smudged DVD subtitles
Illegible subtitles on video DVDs (even store-bought discs) are usually
caused by a video resolution that is set too low. If your display is set to
640 × 480 or 800 × 600, raise the display resolution to at least 1024 × 768.
Disc won’t play in standalone player
Low-quality discs commonly cause playback problems in standalone CD
and DVD players. If the disc won’t play, or if the audio quality is bad, try a
different brand of disc. Avoid the el-cheapo blank discs in the bargain bin
at your local computer store, and instead spend the extra nickel on some
brand-name discs (I’ve found Verbatim discs to be consistently reliable).
Another problem that affects standalone DVD players is that of incompatible disc formats. Some older players can’t read movies burned to
DVD+R/RW or DVD-R/RW discs, so you may need to buy a new player,
or settle for movies played through your PC. (The format that seems to be
the most widely supported is DVD+R, although your mileage may vary.)
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PC can’t read disc
Does Windows Explorer hang when you try to copy files off an old disc?
The most common cause of this is simply dust. Try gently wiping the
disc with a clean, soft, dry cloth, or barring that, your shirt. (Wipe in a
straight line, from the center of the disc out to the edge; don’t rub in a
circular motion.)
The other possibility is that you’re reading the disc with an old CD drive
that doesn’t support multisession CDs. (Each time you burn files to a
disc, you’re creating another “session,” or track, on that disc.) In this
case, there’s little you can do to make the earlier sessions readable, short
of replacing the drive. Luckily, brand-new CD/DVD readers are cheap
and plentiful!
Windows Media Player complains about insufficient space
Assuming your arithmetic skills are up to par, and the total length of all
the tracks you’re trying to burn to an audio CD doesn’t exceed the
capacity of the disc, it’s possible that it’s a hardware problem. If you
have more than one CD or DVD drive connected to the same IDE controller, they can fight for system resources. To fix the problem, make
sure that your burner is the only CD or DVD writer on the chain; if one
drive is connected to the primary IDE controller, make sure the other
one is plugged into the secondary controller, and that neither is in conflict with another device (such as the hard disk, usually occupying the
primary master slot).
None of your discs are readable anywhere
Visit your CD/DVD burner manufacturer’s web site and see whether
there’s a firmware update. Sometimes, a firmware bug will prevent otherwise good discs, written with a good burner, from playing on a perfectly good player. And that’s not good.
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Media
Files missing on a data disc
Can’t see all the files you burned to a disc, particularly if you’ve burned
the disc more than once? You may’ve deleted the old files when you
added the latest batch of files. The good news is that—unless you
erased a rewritable disc—the “deleted” files are still there, only hidden.
To retrieve them, you’ll need an application that can create a disk image
from a single track, such as ISO Recorder (free, http://isorecorder.
alexfeinman.com). Once you’ve created the disc image file, you can
either burn it to another disc (by itself), or you can open it with IsoBuster (http://www.isobuster.com) and extract the files by dragging and
dropping.
Chapter
5PerformanceMaximizing
Performance
CHAPTER
5
Performance
Windows Vista is by no means “fast.” Running on a high-end PC, at least by
the standards of the time of the product’s release, Vista seems sluggish and
overburdened by its own weight.
This is nothing new. While the above statement may sound like an indictment of Vista, Windows 95 was much worse 12 years earlier on the hardware of its time. But put 95 on a PC of today, and it will fly.
Of course, Vista does more with its hardware, right? Well, there’s the Glass
interface, covered later, which certainly sucks up a lot of processor cycles.
And sure, it takes longer to copy or move files than, say, XP, but as
explained in Chapter 2, Vista is doing more in the background, which is
why you now get a single window warning you of 27 upcoming conflicts
rather than 27 individual warnings. And there’s the indexing service, also
discussed in Chapter 2, which keeps your hard disk busy much of the time.
These are all nice toys to have, but how vital are they? Are they more important than a snappy, responsive computer, particularly after you’ve just laid
down a thousand bucks for new hardware?
Perhaps a better question: if you get a new PC with hardware that’s twice as
fast as your old machine, yet put Vista on it and end up with one that feels
slower than Windows XP did on the old hardware, is that progress?
Your PC truly spends most of its time—something like 99.9%—waiting for
you to do something. That leaves only 0.1% of the time when you really
don’t want Windows to be doing anything other than fulfilling your request.
But it’s precisely the moment you start a program, move a window across
the screen, or apply a filter in Photoshop, that you want your PC to perform; and of course, it’s at this moment when Windows has the most work
to do.
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This is why your PC is full of caching technologies, such as Vista’s search
indexing service. While your PC is idle, Windows uses that latent power to
read through all the documents on your hard disk, making the Windows
Explorer’s Search feature much more responsive at the moment you actually need a response. Of course, this means that search results are sometimes out of date, but that’s the price you pay for speed.
So, it usually comes down to finding a balance; do you want snappy windows or do you want the Glass interface? Do you want quick file searches,
or would you rather Windows use that time to defragment your hard disk?
Do you want Windows to start up and shut down quickly, or do you want
to save power at night by shutting it down completely?
That’s what this chapter—and the whole book, really—is about: overcoming
the “try to please everybody” approach Microsoft took when it designed Vista,
by turning off the stuff you don’t need and customizing the stuff you do.
Trim the Fat
Surprise: Windows Vista is not configured for optimal performance right
out of the box. Rather, it was built to showcase all the features Microsoft
included with the product to help sell it.
Tame Mindless Animation and Display Effects
Windows Vista animates almost every visual component that makes up its
sparkling new interface. While these affectations may be cute, they create
two performance problems. For one, they slow down the motion, causing
windows, menus, and listboxes to take longer to open and close, all of
which makes your PC feel sluggish. Second, they consume CPU cycles that
would otherwise be used to handle processor-intensive tasks like virtual
memory and gameplay.
There are settings that affect performance scattered throughout Windows,
but the ones that control display effects are the easiest to change, and go the
furthest to make Vista feel faster and more responsive.
In Control Panel, open System, and click the Advanced system settings link
on the left side (or run SystemPropertiesAdvanced.exe). In the Performance
section, click Settings. The Visual Effects tab, shown in Figure 5-1, contains 20 settings, all explained later.
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Fortunately, there are a bunch of things you can do right now to speed
things up without spending a dime.
Figure 5-1. The Performance Options window is a good place to start looking for fat to
trim
Unfortunately, the four selections above the list are a bit misleading. For
example, the Let Windows choose what’s best for my computer option
reverts all settings to the defaults chosen by a marketing committee at
Microsoft to best showcase Vista’s features. The Adjust for best appearance
option simply enables all features in the list, while the Adjust for best performance option just disables them.
Now, depending on the prowess of your video hardware, some of these settings may make more of a difference than others. And of course, some
options may not be present in your edition of Vista.
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Animate controls and elements inside windows. Turn this off to nix the
slow-fade effect on buttons and tabs in dialog boxes, the cyclic pulsating effect on the default button, and the fading scrollbar arrows. Buttons will still glow blue as you roll over them with the mouse, but they’ll
do it sans the delay.
Animate windows when minimizing and maximizing. This controls the
squeezing and stretching that happens to windows when you minimize,
restore, and maximize them. Leave it on to see where a window went
when you minimize it, or turn it off to minimize windows without the
wait.
This option also affects the disappearing/reappearing taskbar if you have both the Auto-hide the taskbar setting in
Taskbar and Start Menu Properties and the Show window
contents while dragging option (described later) enabled.
Enable transparent glass. One of the few self-explanatory options here,
this option is covered in “Get Glass,” later in this chapter.
Fade or slide menus/ToolTips into view. Turn this off to have menus and
tool tips “snap” open.
By default, there’s a short delay between the instant you
click a menu and the moment the menu actually opens; see
“Make Menus More Mindful,” later in this chapter, to adjust
this.
Show shadows under menus/mouse pointer. This feature has a negligible
effect on the performance of most Vista-class PCs, particularly those
with fast video cards.
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Enable desktop composition. This vaguely named option is probably the
biggest performance drain you can adjust here, but it’s required if you
want the glass effect (described next). Desktop composition is the
behind-the-scenes scheme—run by the Desktop Window Manager
(DWM)—that keeps a snapshot of each open window in memory. Turn
it off, and Vista draws each window directly to the screen just like XP
and earlier versions did. Without it, you can’t have the Glass interface
or the thumbnail previews on the taskbar and the Alt-Tab window, but
the Windows interface will feel snappier and more responsive.
Show thumbnails instead of icons. It takes a lot of processor power to open
all the media files in a folder and generate thumbnail images, so this
option can potentially have a big effect on your PC’s performance (at
least while you’re using Windows Explorer). Among other things,
thumbnail generation is usually responsible for the slowly moving green
progress bar in Windows Explorer’s address bar, so you should definitely turn this off if you don’t care about thumbnails for your images,
videos, and PDF files.
If an installer window appears briefly or if Windows
Explorer crashes each time you view a folder full of video
files, it means that one of your video codecs is damaged.
Turn off the Show thumbnails instead of icons option to
bypass the problem, or see “Playing Video,” in Chapter 4, to
fix it.
Show translucent selection rectangle. The translucent selection rectangle—
referred to as a “rubber band” in Chapter 2—is what you see when you
drag the mouse and make a box to select multiple files in Windows
Explorer and on your desktop. It should have no discernable effect on
performance, but since it uses alpha channels (an advanced function
provided by your display driver), you may want to turn this off if you
have any problems using the feature on your PC.
Show window contents while dragging. Turn off this option to show only
window outlines when moving and resizing windows; consider it a
throwback to the early days of Windows. You probably won’t notice
much of a performance hit with this feature turned on, unless you’re
using the Glass interface on a PC with a weak graphics engine (display
card). In fact, Vista may seem more responsive with this feature enabled,
as windows will appear to respond immediately to dragging, as opposed
to sitting still until you let go of the mouse button.
Slide open combo boxes. This option controls the animation of drop-down
listboxes, similar to the Fade or slide menus option described earlier.
Slide taskbar buttons. When you close a window, its button disappears
from the taskbar, and the adjacent buttons on the right slide to the left
to close the gap. Since this animation doesn’t cause any delays, you’re
unlikely to achieve any performance gains by disabling it. However, I
find the taskbar animation rather annoying, and personally prefer to
have this one turned off.
Smooth edges of screen fonts. Using a process called anti-aliasing, Windows fills in the jagged edges of larger text on the screen with gray pixels, making the edges appear smooth. Turn off this option to slightly
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improve the speed at which larger fonts are drawn on the screen,
although the speed difference shouldn’t be noticeable on faster PCs.
If you’re using a flat-panel display (laptop or otherwise), you
may find text slightly more difficult to read if font smoothing is turned on. But before you simply turn it off, try the
alternate anti-aliasing method. In Control Panel, open the
Personalization page, click Window Color and Appearance,
and then click Open classic appearance properties for more
color options. Click Effects and then choose between the
Standard and Clear Type smoothing methods; experiment
with this setting to see which one looks best on your display.
Smooth-scroll list boxes. Despite the fact that they don’t open or close,
ordinary listboxes are animated, too. If you’ve ever noticed a listbox
that scrolls slowly, this option is the reason; turn it off to make listboxes scroll faster.
There’s a nearly identical option in Internet Explorer that
makes web pages scroll more slowly. In IE, click the Tools
drop-down, select Internet Options, and then choose the
Advanced tab. At the end of the Browsing section, turn off
the Use smooth scrolling option and click OK.
Use drop shadows for icon labels on the desktop. This setting affects more
than just the shadows behind icon captions; it makes the text background transparent. If you’re using desktop wallpaper (as opposed to a
solid color background), and you turn off this option, small swaths of
the current solid background color will show through the captions of
your desktop icons.
Use visual styles on windows and buttons. Turn off this setting to make
Vista’s interface look more or less like Windows 98/2000. It’s the same
as selecting Windows Classic style in the Window Color and Appearance page in Control Panel.
That’s it for this window; click Apply to test your changes, and then OK
when you’re done.
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Use a background image for each folder type. Get rid of the watermark
picture shown behind certain system folders like Control Panel and
Pictures, and those folders will open a little more quickly (and the text
will likely be more readable, to boot). Strangely, this feature doesn’t
seem to be present in Vista at all, making this option totally pointless,
although your experience may differ.
Next, if you’ve noticed that Windows has been slow to update desktop
icons, and you have a lot of them, there is a setting that may help. Rightclick an empty area of the desktop, select View, and then select Classic
Icons. Your desktop icons will shrink somewhat, returned to the standard
32 × 32 pixel size used in earlier versions of Windows. When Windows
draws larger icons—Medium Icons, the default in Vista—it has to stretch
most application icons to the new size, and this can take a little time on
slower PCs. (Note that the icons included with Vista all come in larger sizes
and don’t need stretching.)
Fine-tune video settings
If you’re interested in tinkering further with display settings that can affect
performance, right-click an empty area of your desktop, select Personalize,
and then click the Display Settings link.
On older PCs, the speed at which a video card can draw to
your screen is somewhat dependent on the current color
mode and resolution, as described in “Video Cards (Display
Adapters)” in Chapter 6. If your games, or Windows itself,
for that matter, are running slowly, try reducing the color
depth and resolution. Newer high-end video cards will not
show any performance hit when run at higher resolutions or
color depths.
In the Display Settings window, click Advanced Settings and then choose
the Troubleshoot tab. Here, the Change settings button lets you fine-tune
some of the performance features of your display driver, all of which vary
with the make, model, and driver version. If the Change settings button is
grayed-out, look for extra tabs in this window; any tab to the right of Color
Management is a special feature of your display driver, and can be used to
change video settings.
Now, most high-end video cards allow you to modify or disable certain 3D
features, such as 8-bit palletized textures, gamma adjustment, zbuffer, and
bilinear filter. In most cases, these settings won’t have any effect on Windows outside 3D games, with the possible exception of the Flip 3D application (Winkey+Tab). But look for other features you can turn off, such as
custom shortcut menus, special effects for your windows, or a virtual desktop feature, all of which may slow down your PC when enabled.
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Make Menus More Mindful
Ever noticed the half-second or so delay between the instant you move the
mouse over a menu item and the moment the menu is opened? By default,
Vista waits 400 milliseconds (just under a half-second) before opening
menus, but if you eliminate the delay, menus will open instantaneously, and
your PC will feel a little more alert.
1. Open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3).
2. Expand the branches to HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel\Desktop.
3. Double-click the MenuShowDelay value. If it’s not there, go to Edit ➝ New
➝ String Value, and type MenuShowDelay for the name of the new value.
4. The numeric value you enter here is the number of milliseconds (thousandths of a second) Windows will wait before opening a menu. Enter 0
(zero) here to eliminate the delay completely.
If you ever have trouble holding your mouse perfectly still,
you’ve probably found it frustrating to navigate menus—
particularly those in the Start menu—in Windows Vista. Try
typing a very large value (65534 is the maximum) here to stop
menus from automatically opening altogether, which should
make them easier to use.
Note that another way to navigate touchy menus is to use the keyboard. In
any application, press the Alt key by itself to jump to the menu bar (or press
Ctrl-Esc or the Windows logo key to open the Start menu), and then use the
arrow keys to navigate.
Start Windows in Less Time
One of the sure signs of a PC that’s been used for more than a few weeks is
that it takes a lot longer to start up than when it was new. The longer load
time isn’t fatigue, nor is it a sign that the PC needs a faster processor; it’s a
casualty of all the junk that Windows accumulates on a day-to-day basis.
One of the best ways to shorten startup times is to not shut
down. Rather, if you put your PC to sleep, as described next
in “Start Windows Instantly (Almost),” you can power it
back up in just a few seconds.
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5. Click OK and close the Registry Editor when you’re finished. Log off
and then log back in or restart Windows for this change to take effect.
Several factors can impact the amount of time it takes for your computer to
load Windows and display the desktop so you can start working, not the
least of which is anything left over from the previous version of Windows. If
you installed Vista over, say, Windows XP, then you potentially have years
of drivers, add-on services, startup programs, and other stuff clogging up
your PC. An upgraded PC can take two to four times as long to start as one
on which Vista has been installed clean. (See Chapter 1 for other reasons
Vista specifically doesn’t like inheriting a predecessor’s problems.) Unfortunately, wiping your hard disk and reinstalling is a whole lot easier said than
done, so here are some other things you can do to reduce Windows’ boot
time.
Eliminate unnecessary autostart programs
Probably the most common thing that slows down Windows’ loading time
is all of the programs that are configured to load at boot time. Not only do
they take a while to load, but they commonly eat up processor cycles while
they’re running, which in turn causes other programs to load more slowly.
There’s more running on your PC than the handful of icons in the notification area (tray) suggests, and there are several places where startup programs
are specified in addition to the Startup folder in your Start menu. Check out
“Manage Startup Programs,” in Chapter 6, for all the places to look.
Make more free disk space
You may not have enough free disk space for your virtual memory (swap
file) to operate comfortably. Windows uses part of your hard disk to store
portions of memory; the more disk space you devote to your swap file, the
easier it will be for Windows to store data there. See “Optimize Virtual
Memory and Cache Settings,” later in this chapter, for more information.
The easiest way to create more free disk space is to delete the files on your
hard disk that you no longer need; see “If in Doubt, Throw It Out,” also
later in this chapter, for a safe way to do this.
See also “Optimize Virtual Memory and Cache Settings” and
“A Defragmentation Crash Course,” both later in this chapter, for other things you can do to speed up your hard drive
and help Windows load more quickly.
Lastly, a new hard disk will give you dramatically more disk space, and a
faster hard disk can improve boot time considerably. If you’re on the fence
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about replacing that older drive, consider the performance boost as well as
the sorely needed space.
Clean out your Temp folder
Sometimes having too many files in Windows’ Temp folder can not only
slow Windows startup, but in extreme cases, can prevent Windows from
loading at all. Windows and your applications use this folder to temporarily
store data while you’re working with documents. When those applications
and documents are closed (or when the applications just crash), they often
leave the temporary files behind, and they accumulate fast.
By default, Vista has two Temp folders:
C:\Users\{your_user_name}\AppData\Local\Temp
C:\Windows\Temp
although the first is used almost exclusively by Windows and your applications. To clear out your old temporary files, open Windows Explorer, navigate to the Temp folder, and delete anything more than a day old. (Windows
won’t let you delete any files that are still in use.)
You can change the location of your Temp folder, making it
easier to locate and clean out by hand. In Control Panel,
open System, click the Advanced system settings link, and
under the Advanced tab, click Environment Variables.
Underneath the upper box, click New. Type TEMP for the
Variable name, put the full path of the folder you’d like to
use in the Variable value field, and click OK. Do the same
thing for the TMP variable (no “E” this time), and then click
OK when you’re done. Restart Windows for the change to
take effect.
Thin out your fonts
If you have more than 600 fonts installed on your system, it may be negatively impacting on the time it takes to load Windows. If you can survive
without 400 different decorative fonts (especially if all you ever use is Times
Roman), try temporarily removing them.
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Another way to clear out the Temp folder is to use the Disk Cleanup tool
(cleanmgr.exe); after selecting your Windows drive from the Drives list (usually C:), select Temporary files in the Files to delete list, and click OK. Or, if
you want your Temp folder cleaned automatically, use the Clear out the
Temp folder tool in Creative Element Power Tools (http://www.
creativelement.com/powertools/).
If you periodically need a lot of fonts, you might want to try font management software that lets you organize your collection and add or remove
fonts easily, such as:
• PigFontViewer (free, http://www.pigfontviewer.com/)
• Font Agent Pro (commercial, http://www.insidersoftware.com/)
• Suitcase Fusion (commercial, http://www.extensis.com/)
Tame antivirus software
Antivirus programs (see Chapter 6) are typically set up to not only load
automatically whenever you start Windows, but to check for updates, too.
For instance, the otherwise excellent (and free) Avast! Home Edition can
completely halt a Vista system for 15–20 seconds while it downloads and
installs necessary updates.
While you may not want to stop loading your antivirus software automatically, you can delay it by writing a simple startup script (see Chapter 9) that
loads the software after waiting, say, 45 seconds. This way, you can start
working while your antivirus program loads in the background.
Add more memory
Vista really isn’t happy with less than a gigabyte of memory; 2 GB is better.
Memory prices are always dropping, typically making it remarkably inexpensive to add more RAM to your system, and doing so will significantly
improve performance across the board. See “Make Your Hardware Perform,” later in this chapter, for details.
Networking
Windows polls each active wired network connection on your system while
it boots your system, and then polls your wireless adapter (if you have one)
for any networks in range. Each of these steps takes time, so if there are any
network adapters on your PC you don’t use, you can disable them to speed
things up. In the Network and Sharing Center in Control Panel, click Manage network connections, and then right-click on each network connection
you’re not using and select Disable.
Next, if you have any permanent mapped network drives (see “Access a
Shared Folder Remotely” in Chapter 8) you’re not using, open Windows
Explorer, right-click any unneeded mapped drives, and select Disconnect.
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Start Windows Instantly (Almost)
You can optimize Vista all you want, possibly shaving 15 or 20 seconds off
your boot time (see the previous topic), or you can approach the problem
from a different angle.
All modern PCs support a Standby mode that allows you to shut down Windows quickly, and more importantly, start it back up in only a few seconds.
Standby is a power-saving mode (known as the S3 sleep state) that maintains power to your system memory and a few other components, while cutting power to your hard disk, monitor, network adapters, and most of the
rest of the devices in your PC.
While it looks like it’s turned off, a PC in Standby mode still uses some electricity. If you remove the battery from your laptop or unplug your desktop
PC while it’s in Standby mode, the power to your system memory will be
cut, and you will likely lose data (just as though you unplugged it while it
was still on).
There’s a drawback to using any of these sleep states exclusively. Namely, Windows gets cranky when it has had too
much sleep: performance worsens, some features stop working properly, and applications are more prone to crashes.
The remedy is to shut down and restart Windows periodically, at least once or twice a week (more for heavy use),
which, of course, somewhat negates the overall time saved
by employing sleep features in the first place. Alternatively,
you may choose to avoid sleeping your PC altogether; you’ll
enjoy a more stable environment, but you’ll lose the convenience of the “instant on” feature.
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The Hibernate mode (the S4 sleep state) solves the power-off problem by
storing an image of your RAM on your hard disk and then shutting down
completely. This means you can cut power to your desktop PC with a separate power strip or remove the battery from your laptop, and still resume
your last Windows session in a fraction of the time it would take to start
Windows normally. The downside is that Hibernate takes a little longer to
shut down and start up than Standby, and you need a lot more free disk
space (at least as much as the amount of RAM in your PC). And then there’s
the small matter of the Hibernate feature being completely absent from
Windows Vista.
The solicitude of Sleep
Instead, Vista provides only a hybrid of Standby and Hibernate (discussed
next) which Microsoft calls Sleep mode. Basically, Sleep puts your PC in the
S3 power-saving mode just like Standby, but only after saving the stuff in
your PC’s memory to disk—somewhat like Hibernate—so you won’t lose
data if you cut power to your PC.
So, Sleep is the best of both worlds, right?
Not so fast. First of all, Sleep doesn’t work that well with some modern PCs;
cut power to your computer, and Windows may lose the saved state from
the last session after all, making it no better than Standby. Second, Sleep
doesn’t completely shut down your computer, which means that it’s still
using more electricity than it would if it were truly powered off.
If your Windows session doesn’t survive a Sleep, you might not have the
hybrid sleep feature enabled. Open the Power Options page in Control
Panel, click the Change plan settings link under the currently selected plan,
and then click the Change advanced power settings link. If necessary, click
the Change settings that are currently unavailable link. Expand the Sleep
branch, set the Allow hybrid sleep option to On, and click OK.
Conversely, if you’d prefer the quickest possible startup and shutdown, and
you’re willing to give up the benefits of hibernation, set the Allow hybrid
sleep option to Off. This effectively gives Vista a Standby feature; just don’t
be surprised when Windows can’t resume your previous session because
your PC lost power while it was asleep.
Hibernate, for real this time
If you’re not happy with Vista’s Sleep mode, you can instead use the true
Hibernate feature that’s hidden by default in Windows Vista.
Open a Command Prompt window in administrator mode: open the Start
menu, type command in the Search box, right-click the Command Prompt
icon that appears, and select Run as administrator. Then, type:
powercfg /hibernate on
at the prompt and press Enter. If the command returns you to the prompt
with no message, the change was successful, and you can type exit or close
the Command Prompt window. The change takes effect right away (see the
“What is hiberfil.sys?” sidebar, next, for evidence), but you’ll need to close
and reopen any Power Options windows (next) to see the new options.
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What is hiberfil.sys?
To avoid some of the drawbacks of Vista’s Sleep power-saving mode, you can
hibernate your PC. As described in “Start Windows Instantly (Almost),”
Hibernate saves a copy of everything in your PC’s memory (RAM) onto your
hard disk before it shuts down.
Windows uses the file hiberfil.sys, stored in the root folder of your hard disk,
to hold your hibernation data. Because it must hold everything in memory, its
size is the same as the amount of installed system memory. Have 2 GB of
RAM? You’ll see a 2 GB hiberfil.sys file on your hard disk that Windows
won’t let you delete.
Windows creates the hiberfil.sys file automatically when you turn on the
Hibernate feature; the only way to delete the file is to turn off Hibernate.
To do this, open a Command Prompt window in administrator mode (see
“The solicitude of Sleep,” earlier in this chapter, for details) and type this
command at the prompt:
powercfg /hibernate off
Then press Enter. If the command returns you to the prompt with no message, the change was successful, and hiberfil.sys should be gone.
Performance
If hiberfil.sys is still there, hibernation may’ve already been turned off, and the
file may be left over from an older version of Windows. Another way to delete
the file is to use the Disk Cleanup tool (cleanmgr.exe); just select the drive
containing the file, place a checkmark next to Hibernation File Cleaner in the
Files to delete list, and click OK.
Put your PC to sleep
The key to using Sleep or Hibernate is to set one of them up as the default
action to take when your PC would otherwise be shut down.
Now, regardless of your settings, you can choose to sleep your PC—or for
that matter, shut down, restart, or log off—at any time by clicking the tiny
arrow next to the red button in your Start menu, as shown in Figure 5-2.
But to change your PC’s shutdown settings, open the Power Options page in
Control Panel, and click the Change plan settings link under the currently
selected plan. Next, click the Change advanced power settings link to open
the Advanced Settings window, and then expand the Power buttons and lid
branch (Figure 5-3). If necessary, click the Change settings that are currently unavailable link (see “Control User Account Control,” in Chapter 8,
to get rid of this last step).
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Figure 5-2. Open the Start menu and then click the little arrow to choose how to shut
down
Figure 5-3. Power Options’ Advanced settings window lets you choose whether your PC
goes to sleep or shuts down when you press the power button or close the lid
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The options and choices vary depending on your PC’s capabilities, but in
most cases, you should see at least Power button action, which refers to
your PC’s main power switch, and Start menu power button, which refers
to the red button next to the Search box in your Start menu. You may also
see Sleep button action if your keyboard or PC has a formal Sleep button
(which looks like a crescent moon), and Lid close action if you’re using a
laptop.
At most, you’ll see four choices under each option: Do nothing, Sleep,
Hibernate, and Shut down. The Hibernate option only appears if hibernation is turned on, as described in the previous section. And if you don’t see
the Sleep option, your BIOS or video driver may not support it.
By default, the red power button in Vista’s Start menu is set
to Sleep. While this makes for quick startup and shutdown,
it also means that your PC will continue to suck electricity
even when it’s presumably off. And if your PC isn’t fully
compatible with Vista’s Sleep mode, you may lose data if
you cut power to your PC. To prevent this situation, set the
Start menu power button option to either Shut down or
Hibernate.
See “Improve Battery Life,” later in this chapter, for a way to automatically
change your power button and lid settings when you switch between AC
and battery power.
Time to wake up
While in Standby, Sleep, or Hibernate mode, your PC waits for you to hit
the power button—or optionally press a key or move the mouse—at which
point it powers up and resumes your previous Windows session.
All sorts of devices can be used to wake your PC when it’s asleep, such as
your keyboard, some kinds of mice, network adapters, and modems. But
first, you need to turn on a setting in Windows. Open Device Manager, and
expand the branch containing the device (e.g., Keyboards). Double-click
your device, choose the Power Management tab, turn on the Allow this
device to wake the computer option, and click OK.
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Next, scroll up just a bit and expand the Sleep branch. Here, you can use
the Sleep after and Hibernate after options to have your PC automatically
put itself to sleep after a certain period of inactivity. Think of these settings
as a more ecologically friendly—but less entertaining—alternative to the
screen saver.
Next, put your PC to sleep and test it out. If you’ve just enabled wake-up for
your keyboard, press the Space bar. Or, if you want to wake up the PC with
your mouse, give it a nudge.
If that doesn’t do it, you’ll need to dive into your BIOS setup screen, discussed in Appendix A. Look for a Power or APM Configuration category, in
which you’ll find settings like these:
Power Button Mode. This option lets you choose whether your power
switch shuts down your PC or puts it to sleep. Depending on your
BIOS, the setting you choose here may or may not be overridden by the
similar setting in the Windows Control Panel.
Power On By External Modems. This is also known as “Wake On Ring”
(WOR); if you have an internal modem in a PCI or PCIE slot, you can
use this feature to call your PC with a telephone to wake it up. (Despite
the name, this feature won’t work with serial-port or USB modems.)
Power On By PCI/PCIE Devices. Turn on this option to use the “Wake On
LAN” (WOL) feature, which lets you send a wake-up signal to your PC
from another PC on your local network. Some motherboards also
require that you install a jumper or use a specific type of network card,
so check your PC’s documentation for details.
Power On By PS/2 Keyboard or Mouse. Turn this on if you have an oldstyle keyboard or mouse that has a round connector. Most PCs should
wake up from newer USB keyboards or mice regardless of this setting.
Restore on AC Power Loss. This option lets you decide what happens after
you’ve cut power to your PC. Set this option to Always On if you want
to turn on your PC with a switch on an external power strip.
As you might’ve expected, some experimentation may be required at this
stage.
When you wake up your PC, Vista may require a password before it resumes
your previous session. To turn this off, return to the Advanced Settings window (Figure 5-3), expand the Additional settings branch, and set the
Require a password on wakeup to No.
Sleep and Hibernate troubleshooting
For the Standby, Sleep, or Hibernate modes to work properly in Windows
Vista, your PC has to cooperate. If it doesn’t, you might experience a problem such as:
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No sleep. Windows won’t go to sleep at all; either nothing happens when you
try to stand by, or the system just crashes in the middle of the process.
No wake up. Windows won’t wake up after going to sleep, or Windows
simply boots normally instead of resuming your previous session.
No more sleep. Windows goes to sleep or hibernates once, but once it
wakes up, it won’t go back to sleep until you restart it.
Features are unavailable. Some or all of the power management features
and settings discussed earlier are grayed-out (disabled) or missing.
Stuff stops working. Some features, like your wireless network, your cordless mouse, or your scanner stop working after waking up, at least until
you restart Windows. (Hint: look for new drivers or a firmware update
for your device.)
Unfortunately, all of these problems are quite common, mostly because of
the inconsistent support for Advanced Configuration and Power Interface
(ACPI) in the computer industry. The good news is that there are a few
things you can do to help improve your computer’s support for APM and
ACPI, should you be experiencing any of these problems:
BIOS out of date. Check with the manufacturer of your computer system
or motherboard for a BIOS update. Vista requires that your BIOS comply with the ACPI 2.0 specification.
Hybrid sleep not working. The second most common cause of sleep and
hibernation problems, behind an out-of-date BIOS, is a video card (display adapter) driver that doesn’t support Vista’s Hybrid Sleep feature.
Check with the manufacturer of your video card for a newer driver, or
try turning off Hybrid Sleep, as described in “The solicitude of Sleep,”
earlier in this section.
Wireless won’t connect after waking up. As with the video card, make sure
you have the latest driver and firmware for your wireless adapter. Also,
try changing the device’s power settings: in Device Manager, doubleclick your wireless network adapter. Choose the Power Management
tab, and turn off the Allow the computer to turn off this device to save
power option.
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ACPI/APIC not enabled in BIOS. Enter your BIOS setup screen, as
described in Appendix A, and make sure the ACPI APIC support setting is set to On or Enabled. If you see a setting referring to ACPI 2.0 or
some later version, try turning it on if it’s off, or vice versa. Reboot your
PC when you’re done. Depending on how ACPI-compliant your PC is,
it may take some trial and error to get Vista to sleep properly.
USB devices don’t work after waking up. This is a confirmed bug in Windows Vista, one fixed by Microsoft Hotfix #928631, available at http://
support.microsoft.com/kb/928631.
Out of free disk space. As explained earlier, the Hibernate feature creates an
image file on your hard disk equal in size to the amount of installed memory. If you have 2 GB of RAM, then Windows will need 2,147,483,648
bytes of free disk space for the hiberfil.sys file. If hibernation doesn’t
work, or if it’s exceedingly slow, try deleting the hibernation file as
described in the “What is hiberfil.sys?” sidebar, earlier in this section.
Then, defragment your hard disk, and re-enable hibernation.
Trouble recovering from Sleep. Go to http://www.passmark.com/products/
sleeper.htm and download the free PassMark Sleeper tool to help test
your computer’s ability to enter and recover from Sleep, Standby, and
Hibernate modes.
Keep in mind that you may never get your system to reliably go to sleep
and wake up, but if you are able to get this feature working, it can be very
convenient.
Shut Down Windows Quickly
Theoretically, when you shut down Windows, your computer should be
powered down in less than 15 seconds. The problem is that all of the
cleanup Windows tries to do before it considers it “safe” to power the system down can sometimes cause delays. This includes shutting down your
open applications, stopping any running services, and writing any pending
cache data to the disk.
During the course of using your computer, Windows sometimes postpones writing data to the disk to improve performance. This is called write caching, and as a consequence,
Windows must take a few seconds before you shut down to
make sure all data queued to be written is actually, physically written to the disk before power is lost. See the discussion of removable drives in Chapter 6 for a way to disable
this feature.
Of course, the most effective way to speed up shutdown is to not shut down
at all. Rather, put your PC to sleep, as described in “Start Windows
Instantly (Almost),” earlier in this chapter. That way, you won’t have to
close your documents, bookmark open web pages, or even quit your games;
they’ll all still be where you left them when you wake up and resume your
previous session.
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Of course, it’s good for Vista to shut down completely from time to time. If
you sleep your PC exclusively, it may mean you’ll be operating under the
same Windows session for weeks or even months, and that can cause Windows to slow down and become even more unreliable.
When shutting down, Windows attempts to stop all running tasks. If a task—
an application, service, or background program—doesn’t respond or refuses
to shut down, there’s a built-in delay before Windows will force the task to
end. This delay is called the timeout, and it can be shortened if you’re experiencing problems or unreasonable delays every time you shut down your
system.
1. Open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3).
2. Expand the branches to HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Control Panel\Desktop.
3. Double-click the WaitToKillAppTimeout value. (If it’s not there, select
Edit ➝ New ➝ DWORD Value (32-bit) and type WaitToKillAppTimeout
for the name of the new value.) This number controls the time to wait,
in milliseconds, before unresponsive applications are forced to close.
The default is 20000 (20 seconds), but you can type any value here; the
minimum is 1 millisecond, although it’s impractical to use any value
smaller than about 2000 (2 seconds) here.
5. Next, you can configure Vista to end hung applications automatically
and without asking. Select Edit ➝ New ➝ DWORD Value (32-bit) and
type AutoEndTasks for the name of the new value. Then, double-click
AutoEndTasks and enter 1 (one) to automatically end tasks or 0 (zero) to
prompt before ending tasks (the default).
6. Expand the branches to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\
Control.
7. Double-click the WaitToKillServiceTimeout value. This works the same
as the WaitToKillAppTimeout value described above, except that it
applies to services (managed in services.msc) instead of applications.
8. Close the Registry Editor when you’re done. You’ll have to restart Windows for the change to take effect.
These values also affect the timeouts at times other than just shutting down,
such as when you click End Process or End Task in Task Manager. In most
cases, however, these values won’t affect applications that delay shut down
merely because they’re waiting for you to save an open document.
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4. Also in this key is the HungAppTimeout value, which does pretty much the
same thing as WaitToKillAppTimeout; just enter the same number for
both values.
Start Applications Faster
One of the things we spend most of our time doing at a PC is waiting for
applications to start. Larger applications, particularly, can take what seems
like an eternity—OK, 10 to 15 seconds on a fast PC—before they’re ready
to use. And small programs, even though they load quickly, don’t always
“pop” on screen as quickly as one would like.
Windows has a lot to do when it loads a program. It has to suck the program
file data off your hard disk, something that a clean, optimized drive will handle
more quickly (discussed later in this chapter). It also has to make room in your
PC’s system memory (RAM) for the program, which means your virtual memory settings (see “Optimize Virtual Memory and Cache Settings,” later in this
chapter) play a significant part, and, of course, more RAM definitely helps.
And then there’s the program itself, which must read through all your fonts
(the fewer the better), load its own add-on components (DLLs, plug-ins, etc.),
and allocate its own section of your hard disk to store temporary files.
But there’s also something else at work here, something that isn’t strictly
necessary. Windows Vista includes an “Application Compatibility” system
that checks each program you run against a database of known issues, and
warns you if there’s a potential problem. This takes time and resources, and
is really only useful when you’re installing or running older programs not
specifically designed for Vista.
Once you’ve set up your PC and tested it with most of the software you’ll be
using on a daily basis, you really don’t need the Application Compatibility
system any more. Turn it off, and that’s one less thing Windows needs to do
each and every time you start a program.
Open the Start menu, type gpedit.msc into the Search box, and press Enter to
open the Group Policy Object Editor.* Expand the branches to Local Computer Policy ➝ Computer Configuration ➝ Administrative Templates ➝
Windows Components ➝ Application Compatibility. In the Application
Compatibility section, double-click the following settings to configure them:
Turn Off Program Compatibility Engine. Set this to Enabled to turn off
the system that checks each program you run, and allow programs to
start more quickly.
The downside is that some of the User Account Control (UAC) features
I’ll discuss in Chapter 8 may stop working with pre-Vista applications,
which may cause those older programs to stop working.
* The Group Policy Object Editor (gpedit.msc) is only available in the Business and Ultimate editions of Windows Vista; it’s not available in Home Basic and Home Premium.
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Turn Off Program Compatibility Assistant. The Assistant is the window
that pops up after you install a program or use it for the first time to
inform you that it may not have run correctly. Obviously, this is something you’re probably able to determine for yourself, so set this option
to Enabled to get rid of these prompts.
Remove Program Compatibility Property Page. This gets rid of the Compatibility tab in a program’s Properties window. If you’re setting the
other options here to Enabled, you might as well set this to Enabled, too.
When you’re done, close the Group Policy Object Editor and restart Windows
for the change to take effect. If one of your programs stops working, you’ll
need to come back here to re-enable the Application Compatibility engine.
See the “Keeping an Eye on Prefetch” sidebar, later in this chapter, for
another feature that can affect application startup times.
Make Your Hardware Perform
There’s no end to the tricks you can employ to squeeze more speed out of
your PC, but few—apart from the ones in this chapter, hopefully—will end
up making that much of a difference. Probably the most effective steps you
can take involve your hard disk, discussed later in this chapter.
Disclaimer: Keep in mind that there’s a certain point beyond which your
computer is going to turn into a money and time pit. The older your system
is, the less time and energy you’ll want to invest in making it run well, and
the more you should start looking to replace it. It’s easy to calculate the point
of diminishing returns: just compare the estimated cost of an upgrade—both
the monetary cost and the amount of time you’ll have to commit—with the
cost of a new system (minus what you might get for selling or donating your
old system). I stress this point a great deal, because I’ve seen it happen time
and time again: people end up spending too much and getting too little in
return. A simple hardware upgrade ends up taking days of troubleshooting
and configuring, only to result in the discovery that yet something else needs
to be replaced as well. Taking into account that whatever you end up with will
still eventually need to be further upgraded to remain current, it is often more
cost effective to replace the entire system and either sell or donate the old parts.
That said, the following sections detail some things you can do to make
Windows run faster and/or better.
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Paradoxically, this section’s first topic involves the Glass interface, a new feature that indeed makes Windows run more slowly. But making Vista perform
isn’t always about making it run faster; rather, performance is as much about
the quality of your experience as it is about raw, number-crunching speed.
Get Glass
Don’t tell me the moon is shining; show me
the glint of light on broken glass.
—Anton Chekhov
We’re all suckers for a pretty face. You may or may not think “Aero” Glass,
the translucent new interface in Windows Vista, is actually pretty, but you
can’t deny that it’s a welcome change from the homely, cartoonish look of
XP, and a convenient way to see what’s behind the window on top (see
Figure 5-4).
Figure 5-4. Glass—the shiny, translucent interface included with every edition of Vista
except Home Basic—is nice to look at, but may be hard to come by on older PCs
Glass also includes some flashy goodies, such as buttons that glow a cool
blue when you roll over them with the mouse, live thumbnail previews of
running tasks in the taskbar and the Alt-Tab window, and the silly Flip3D
Rolodex-style task switcher (Winkey+Tab).
If you got Windows Vista preinstalled on a new PC, and you’re using the
Home Premium edition or better, then you’re probably already using the
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Glass interface. But what if you’ve upgraded an older PC, or have the Home
Basic edition of Vista? Or what if Glass simply doesn’t work?
The problems with Vista’s Glass feature are twofold. First, Glass has somewhat hefty technical requirements, not the least of which is a fast video card
with at least 64 Mb of video memory (or more for higher resolutions), a
Vista-compatible video driver, and a 3D gaming feature called Pixel Shader
2.0 in hardware. And because Aero Glass guzzles CPU cycles, you’ll want a
fast processor and a fast video card to enjoy it.
Second, it can be a little tricky to get all the pieces in place so that Vista will
even give you the option of enabling the Glass interface.
So, without further ado, here’s a fairly foolproof procedure to get Glass on
your PC.
Part 1: Hardware
The number-one ingredient in a good Glass experience is a fast graphics
card with sufficient video memory onboard.
Modern desktop PCs take PCI-Express (PCIE) cards, and
while Glass-capable PCIE cards are common, it can be difficult to find a sufficiently powerful card designed for the AGP
slot in an older PC. But if you’re not adverse to scrounging
on eBay for a used or discontinued card, nVidia’s 6800 series
of AGP cards are up to the task, and supported by nVidia’s
frequently updated Vista drivers. If you’re looking for topnotch AGP performance, look for a card with the nVidia
6800Ultra chip and 256 Mb of onboard memory.
Video memory may be a different matter. In most cases, video memory is
permanently installed on your video card; unlike your PC’s system memory,
it can’t be upgraded unless you replace your card. But if you have a laptop
or low-end desktop, your video is likely built into your motherboard, and its
video memory is merely a portion of your PC’s system memory (which is
upgradable). This means that it may be possible to allocate more system
memory for your video (at the expense of memory Windows can use) by
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A faster card, which you can only get by spending money on a replacement
and installing it in your PC, will help offload the burden of the Glass interface, so your CPU is free to handle other tasks. (The exception is if you have
a video card with a chip that can be overclocked, akin to “Overclock Your
Processor,” later in this chapter.) The card must also support a 3D feature
called Pixel Shader 2.0 in its hardware (not software), and must be compatible with DirectX 9.
changing a setting or two in your system BIOS. See Appendix A for the
appropriate BIOS settings.
So, how much video memory do you need? It depends on your screen’s resolution, but a basic rule of thumb is that you need a minimum of about 48
bytes of video memory for each pixel on your screen, as shown in Table 5-1.
Table 5-1. The amount of video memory required to use Glass at common screen
resolutions
Resolution
Aspect ratio
# of pixels
Video memory required
800 × 600
4:3
480,000
32 MB
960 × 600
16:10
576,000
32 MB
1024 × 768
4:3
786,432
64 MB
1152 × 864
4:3
995,328
64 MB
1280 × 720
16:9
921,600
64 MB
1280 × 768
5:3
983,040
64 MB
1280 × 800
16:10
1,024,000
64 MB
1280 × 960
4:3
1,228,800
64 MB
1280 × 1024
5:4
1,310,720
64 MB
1360 × 768
16:9
1,044,480
64 MB
1600 × 1024
25:16
1,638,400
128 MB
1600 × 1200
4:3
1,920,000
128 MB
1920 × 1080
16:9
2,073,600
128 MB
1920 × 1200
16:10
2,304,000
128 MB
2560 × 1440
16:9
3,686,400
256 MB
2560 × 1600
16:10
4,096,000
256 MB
2560 × 1920
4:3
4,915,200
256 MB
As you can see, it may be possible to get Glass with as little as 32 MB of
video memory on some lower resolutions—and there are those who have
achieved this—but depending on your card and its driver, your mileage may
vary.
As for your PC, it’s a good idea to have at least 1 gigabyte of system memory (RAM). Although you can get away with less—and you may have to if
your video memory is being shared with your system memory as described
earlier—you may not find the performance acceptable on a PC with less
than 512 MB. See the next topic, “Maximize the Windows Performance Rating,” for ways to measure whether your processor and hard disk are also up
to running Glass.
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Part 2: Software
With the hardware elements in place, the next thing to worry about is your
video driver. Although Vista comes with drivers for most common display
adapters, the best driver you’re likely to get is the one provided by the maker
of the chip on your video card.
The most common video chips are nVidia GeForce (http://www.nvidia.com/)
and ATI Radeon (http://ati.amd.com/); if you’re not sure who makes the
video card in your PC, open Device Manager in Control Panel and expand
the Display adapters branch. Just make sure the driver supports the Windows Display Driver Model; in most cases, the driver must be expressly written for Windows Vista.
Once you’re certain you have the latest video driver, follow these steps to
enable Glass:
1. Update your Windows Experience Index, as described in “Maximize the
Windows Performance Rating,” later in this chapter, so that Windows
can reassess your video subsystem’s capabilities. You may need to
restart Windows if the Performance Information and Tools window
doesn’t update your score after a reasonable wait.
2. In Control Panel, open the System page, and click the Advanced system
settings link on the left side (or run SystemPropertiesAdvanced.exe).
4. Turn on the Enable desktop composition and Enable transparent glass
options, and then click OK and then OK again to close the two windows. (These options may not be present if you’re not using the Aero
interface.)
5. Back in Control Panel, go to the Personalization page, and click the Display Settings link.
If you know how much video memory is on your video card,
refer to Table 5-1, earlier in this section, to determine the
highest screen resolution you can use with Glass. If needed,
adjust the Resolution slider to the left to choose a lower
value; otherwise, if your card supports it, the resolution
should set as high as it goes.
6. From the Colors drop-down listbox, select Highest (32 bit) and then
click OK.
7. Back on the Personalization page, click the Window Color and Appearance link, and then click the Open classic appearance properties for
more color options link.
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3. In the Performance section, click the Settings button.
8. From the Color scheme list, select Windows Aero, and then click OK.
After a brief delay, the Glass interface should now be active.
9. Again on the Personalization page, click the Window Color and
Appearance link again, and turn on the Enable transparency option if
it’s not already on.
10. While you’re here, use the color blocks to choose a tint for the glass, or
click Show color mixer for more control. Adjust the Color intensity
slider to choose the opacity of the glass; move it to the left to make it
more transparent, or to the right to make it more opaque.
11. Click OK when you’re done.
If you still don’t have Glass at this point, either your video card or your
video driver is to blame. For instance, if the Windows Aero entry isn’t
present in the Color scheme list in step 8, or if selecting it shows an error
message, then Windows doesn’t believe your PC is Glass-capable.
If you’re using Vista Home Basic, see the “Part 3a: Vista Home Basic” section, later in this topic.
Part 3: Tweaks
It doesn’t take a degree from Art Center to notice that Microsoft took some
design cues from the Aqua interface in Mac OS X (not that Apple didn’t borrow some of its ideas, too). While Microsoft actually managed to outdo Apple
in a few areas—the minimize, maximize, and close buttons spring to mind—
the Flip 3D task switcher is no match for Exposé, the Mac’s all-at-once task
switcher. Luckily, you can mimic Exposé with My Expose, free from http://
www.annoyances.org/exec/software/myexpose, and shown in Figure 5-5.
If you find the aforementioned title bar buttons—minimize, maximize, and
close—too big (or not big enough), you can resize them. Open the Personalization page in Control Panel, click Window Color and Appearance, click
Open classic appearance properties for more color options, and then click
the Advanced button. From the Item list, select Active Title Bar, and then
use the Size control to the right to shrink or grow the title bar. The preview
shows the classic interface only, so take your best guess, and click OK to see
how it looks.
See “Improve Battery Life,” later in this chapter, for another tool you can
use with Glass.
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Figure 5-5. My Expose mimics the Exposé all-at-once task switcher from Mac OS X
Part 3a: Vista Home Basic
Vista Home Basic doesn’t support the Glass interface, and this is intentional; why else would you pay extra for Vista Home Premium?
Following the steps in “Part 2: Software,” the best you can get in Home
Basic is the Windows Vista Basic scheme, which looks strikingly like Glass,
sans the transparency effects.
If that won’t cut it, check out Stardock WindowBlinds (demo at http://
www.stardock.com/). And while there weren’t any themes that mimicked
Vista Aero Glass exactly at the time of this writing, there were quite a few
Vista-esque themes available from http://www.wincustomize.com/.
But that’s not all. To get the thumbnail previews that float over taskbar buttons in Home Basic, check out Visual Task Tips, free from http://www.
visualtasktips.com/.
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Now, there are a number of hacks floating around the Web that promise to
bring Glass to Home Basic with nothing more than a change to the Registry.
Unfortunately, these were all written for the beta and CTP (Consumer Technology Preview) versions of Vista that made the rounds in 2006. Unfortunately, the Glass interface is simply not present in Home Basic, but that
doesn’t mean you can’t still come close.
Maximize the Windows Performance Rating
With the introduction of the fancy new Glass interface in Vista (covered in
the last section), Microsoft is at last taking display performance seriously in
a non-gaming context.
Enter the Windows Experience Index, a numeric score that supposedly indicates the baseline performance level of your PC’s hardware. To view your
PC’s current score, open the Performance Information and Tools page in
Control Panel (Figure 5-6).
Figure 5-6. The Windows Experience Index is a performance score based on the weakest
performer in your PC
Here, you’ll see the five performance indexes that Vista calculates:
Processor
This measures your CPU’s number-crunching prowess; specifically, how
quickly it can compress and decompress data, encryption and decrypt
data, compute a hash, and encode a video stream. For perspective, here
are benchmarks from a handful of Processor scores culled from the
Web.
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Processor
Processor
subscore
Processor
Processor
subscore
Dual Intel Xeon 5160 @3.0Ghz
5.9
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ @2.2Ghz
4.9
Intel Core2 Duo 6600 @2.40GHz
5.4
AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ @2GHz
4.8
Intel Core2 Duo 6400 @2.13GHz
5.4
Intel T2500 Core Duo @2GHz
4.8
Intel Core2 Duo T7600 @2.33GHz
5.2
AMD Turion 64 X2 Mobile @1.6Ghz
4.7
AMD Athlon 64 X2 5200+ @2.6Ghz
5.1
Intel Pentium 4 @ 2.80GHz
4.1
Want to raise your Processor score without spending any money? Check
out “Overclock Your Processor,” later in this chapter.
Memory
This measures partly how fast your memory is, but also how much of it
your PC has (not including any shared as video memory). Here’s how
Vista limits the maximum memory benchmark you can attain, regardless of how fast your RAM is.
Amount of RAM
Max.
subscore
Amount of RAM
Max.
subscore
Less than 256 MB
1.0
513–704 MB
3.5
257–500 MB
2.0
705–960 MB
3.9
501–512 MB
2.9
961 MB–1.5 GB
4.5
Graphics
This value is the one most closely tied to your PC’s ability to render the
Glass interface (see “Get Glass,” earlier in this chapter), and also indicates your PC’s ability to play back video. The score is based on the
video bandwidth (the speed at which your video card can move data, as
well as the amount of video memory you have).
A video card that doesn’t support DirectX 9 automatically
earns a score no higher than 1.0. One for which you don’t
have a Windows Vista Display Driver Model (WDDM)
driver can’t receive a score higher than 1.9. To use the Glass
interface, you must have a Graphics score of at least 2.0.
Glass should run beautifully on a system ranked at 5.0 or
higher. An updated driver will usually raise your Graphics
score.
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Want a higher Memory score? Add more RAM. (It’ll have the meager
side effect of making your PC faster, too.)
Gaming graphics
This measures your video card’s 3D prowess, specifically the frames per
second it can attain in certain situations.
Like the Graphics benchmark, described previously, there
are minimum requirements for certain scores. If your video
card doesn’t support Direct3D 9, it earns a score no higher
than 1.0. If support for Pixel Shader 3.0 is absent, then you
won’t see a score higher than 4.9, regardless of other factors.
If you believe your card is capable of these things, yet your
score seems unfairly low, your driver is likely to blame.
Primary hard disk
This measures the transfer rate, the speed at which your PC can read
and write information to the drive on which Windows is installed. See
the “Hard Disk” section, later in this chapter, for things you can do to
increase this score.
Off to the right, you’ll see a Base score emblazoned on a Windows logo.
This score isn’t an average of the subscores to the left, but rather an indication of the lowest score—the weakest link in the chain, so to speak.
Don’t panic if your Processor score is a hair lower than your neighbor’s
down the street, even though you have a faster CPU. (Because your neighbor is probably worried about your slightly better Graphics score, even
though his video card cost $40 more than yours.)
Rather, use these scores only to provide quantitative feedback for the
upgrades or tweaks you’re doing. And keep in mind that these scores,
although based on calculations, aren’t quite as rigid as they seem. For
instance, refresh the index right after booting Windows, and you may see a
0.1 variance from a PC that has been scored after being on all day. Install a
new graphics driver, and your Graphics subscore may go up a few tenths
while Gaming graphics dives slightly.
Click the View and print details link to shed some more
light on exactly how Vista is calculating your PC’s score. You
can print the results here, or better yet, highlight everything
(Ctrl-A), copy the text to the clipboard (Ctrl-C), and then
paste into Notepad (Ctrl-V) to save the results to a file.
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Update my score
Click either the Refresh Now button on top or the Update my score link
down below to rescan your system and perform the benchmarks again. But
don’t be surprised when you don’t see any progress bar or other indication
that Windows is testing your system; other than periodic sluggishness in the
mouse, occasional screen flashes, or increased hard disk activity, you
shouldn’t notice much of anything happening.
But don’t let that fool you: to maximize your scores, make sure you close
any running applications (including background tasks like antivirus programs and anything that uses your network), let go of your mouse, and then
go get a cup of tea so you avoid doing anything that may interfere with the
scoring. It’s not unusual for scoring to take 10–30 minutes, even on a fast PC.
If see this error or something similar:
Cannot complete the requested operation.
An unknown error has caused WinSAT to fail in an unexpected way.
it either means you clicked the Refresh Now button while Vista was already
re-examining your system, or there’s a problem with your video driver that’s
causing the benchmark system to crash. Update your driver, restart Windows, and try again.
Priorities shift when you’re not tethered to an AC outlet. Suddenly, processor speed and the glitzy Glass interface just aren’t that important when your
laptop battery is going to die in 12 minutes. Now, there are things you can
do to reduce your laptop’s hunger for power, but the best power-saving features are the ones that engage automatically when you’re using the battery,
but revert to their high-performance settings whenever you plug in.
Start with the obvious: the Power Options page in Control Panel. Here,
you’ll find at least three plans: Balanced (the default), Power saver, and
High performance. It doesn’t really matter which one you choose, because
each can be configured any way you like.
Click the Change plan settings link under the currently selected plan. Next,
click the Change advanced power settings link to open the Advanced Settings window, and if it’s there, click the Change settings that are currently
unavailable link (see “Control User Account Control,” in Chapter 8, to get
rid of this last step).
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Improve Battery Life
The settings here that will have the most bearing on your battery life are:
Hard disk
Being a mechanical device, your hard disk eats up a lot of power. Set the
Turn off hard disk after option too low, and you’ll spend a lot of time
waiting for Windows to wake up your hard disk; set it too high, and
you’re just wasting power. A setting of 10 or 20 minutes is usually a
good compromise.
Processor power management
Your processor can run at different speeds; it runs fast when it’s needed,
but drops down to a slower speed when your PC is idle. The two settings here let you choose the upper and lower bounds of your processor’s speed. Unlike with your hard disk, you never have to wait for your
processor to be woken up, so there’s very little cost in keeping the Minimum processor state setting as low as possible.
It’s worth noting that the Maximum processor state is set to
only 50% in the Power saver plan by default; this means that
when this plan is active, your CPU will never run faster than
about half its rated speed. Of course, this does save power,
but as long as the Minimum processor state is set to, say,
5%, you probably won’t need to limit your CPU in this way.
Of course, processors vary, so experiment with this setting to
see how well yours manages its own power consumption.
Search and Indexing
As described in Chapter 2 (and later in this chapter as well), Windows
indexes the files on your PC to make searches faster. Of course, this uses
your hard disk heavily, so it’s best to set the Power Savings Mode to
Power Saver when you’re running on a battery.
Display
Use the Turn off display after setting as a battery-friendly alternative to
a screensaver. Since it takes very little time to wake up modern laptop
displays, set this to a small value like 5 minutes. Then set Adaptive display to On to have Vista automatically (and temporarily) give you a little
more time whenever you seem to be frequently waking up your display.
Click OK when you’re done; the changes take effect immediately.
To switch between power plans, just click the battery status icon in your
notification area (tray) and then click the one you want. Or, press Winkey+X to show the Windows Mobility Center, where you can also choose
the plan you want.
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Switch plans automatically
Problem is, you have to switch power plans by hand, and who remembers to
do that? Wouldn’t it be better to have the plan chosen automatically when
you switch between battery and AC power? Vista won’t do this, but the free
Vista Battery Saver (available at http://www.codeplex.com/vistabattery, and
shown in Figure 5-7) can.
Performance
Figure 5-7. Tired of having to change the power plans every time you switch between AC
and battery power? Increase your battery life by letting the Vista Battery Saver do it for
you
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Vista Battery Saver can also turn off the power-hungry Glass interface
when you switch battery power, a convenience that has been known to
cause huge gains in battery life. Also available is Aerofoil (free from http://
www.silentsoftware.co.uk/), a program that simply switches off Glass when
you’re mobile and then turns it back on when you’ve plugged in.
Want to know whether your power-saving measures are paying off? Check out the BatTrack tool (free, http://blogs.
microsoft.co.il/files/folders/tamir/entry23412.aspx), written by
the author of Vista Battery Saver, or the BattStat tool (also free,
http://users.rcn.com/tmtalpey/BattStat/).
What’s funny about all this is that in some of Vista’s beta-test versions, each
entry in the Power Options–Advanced Settings window had two settings:
one for On battery and the other for Plugged in. Microsoft actually removed
these settings from the final version, but if you have the Vista Business or
Ultimate edition, you can still use them by opening the Group Policy Object
Editor (gpedit.msc), and expanding the branches to Computer Configuration ➝
Administrative Templates ➝ System ➝ Power Management. As it turns out,
Vista Battery Saver is much easier to use, but if you don’t want to install any
third-party software, the Group Policy Object Editor is a workable alternative.
Disable devices, stop services
Don’t need that ethernet port right now? Not using your DVD drive? Turn
’em off and save some more power.
Open Device Manager, expand the branches to show your “expendable”
devices, and then right-click each one and select Properties. Choose the
Power Management tab, turn on the Allow the computer to turn off this
device to save power option, and click OK. Then, assuming the option was
available, right-click the device and select Disable (if the option wasn’t available, disabling the device won’t save any power).
Next, open the Services window (services.msc), and stop any unnecessary
services (don’t touch the ones you don’t understand). For instance, if you’ve
installed Apple’s iTunes on your PC, you’ll see at least two related services
here: Apple Mobile Device and iPod Service. If you have no plans to connect an iPod during the next few hours, right-click each service and select
Stop to give your PC one less thing to do while you’re running on precious
battery power.
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Cooler or hotter to save power
One of the most significant things you can do to increase battery life is to
take your laptop off your lap. Put it on a book, magazine, airline tray table,
tennis racket, pasta strainer, or any hard—and preferably ventilated—surface. If the bottom of your laptop is allowed to breathe, it won’t get so hot,
and the fan won’t have to work so hard to keep the processor cool. The
harder your fan works—and for that matter, the hotter your CPU gets—the
more power is drained from your battery.
If your laptop never seems to get that hot, even when it’s on your lap, you
may be able to experiment with some more lenient cooling settings. Using
your PC’s BIOS setup page (see Appendix A) or, optionally, a fan control
program like I8kfanGUI (free at http://www.diefer.de/i8kfan/), try increasing
the allowed temperature of your CPU by a degree or two, and see what happens. With luck, your fan should come on less often and your battery
should last a little longer, all without (hopefully) frying your processor.
Manage IRQ Priority
Vista lets you prioritize one or more IRQs (which translate to one or more
hardware devices), potentially improving the performance of those devices:
1. Start by opening the System Information utility (msinfo32.exe), and navigating to System Summary\Hardware Resources\IRQs to view the IRQs in
use on your system, and the devices using them.
2. Next, open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3), and navigate to HKEY_
LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\PriorityControl.
3. Create a new DWORD value in this key, and call it IRQ#Priority, where
# is the IRQ of the device you wish to prioritize (e.g., IRQ13Priority for
IRQ 13, which is your numeric processor).
4. Double-click the new value, and enter a number for its priority. Enter 1
for top priority, 2 for second, and so on. Make sure not to enter the
same priority number for two entries, and keep it simple by experimenting with only one or two values at first.
5. Close the Registry Editor and reboot your computer when you’re done.
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Most components directly attached to your motherboard—including PCI
slots, IDE controllers, serial ports, the keyboard port, and even your motherboard’s CMOS—have individual IRQs assigned to them. An interrupt request
line, or IRQ, is a numbered hardware line over which a device can interrupt
the normal flow of data to the processor, allowing the device to function.
Some users have gotten good results prioritizing IRQ 8 (for the system
CMOS) and the IRQ corresponding to the video card (found in the first
step).
Overclock Your Processor
The processor (CPU) is the highest-profile component in your PC, and
indeed, it does a lot of the heavy lifting in it. But processors also become
obsolete the fastest, and given how expensive they can be, it’s not always a
wise place to put your money. That’s where overclocking comes in; rather
than spending money on a slightly faster chip, you can simply change settings in your PC to squeeze a little extra speed out of the one you currently
have. (See the upcoming sidebar, “How Much the CPU Matters,” for a little
perspective.)
Overclocking is the process of instructing your processor to run at a higher
clock speed (MHz) than its rated speed. For example, you may be able to
modestly overclock a 2.40 GHz chip to run at 2.48 MHz, or your motherboard may offer overclocking at up to 30% of the rated speed, which would
give you more than 3 Ghz on that same old chip.
Supposedly, Intel and other chip makers have taken steps to prevent overclocking (theoretically prompting purchases of faster CPUs instead), but
some motherboard manufacturers have found ways to do it anyway.
To overclock your processor (assuming your motherboard supports it), go
to your BIOS setup page, as described in Appendix A, and use the controls
in the Overclock Options category. Make sure you consult the documentation that came with your motherboard or PC for some of the restrictions; for
instance, overclocking on your motherboard may be limited by the speed of
the installed system memory (RAM).
When you’re done, load up Windows and update your Windows Experience
Index, as described in “Maximize the Windows Performance Rating,” earlier in this chapter. Obviously, the Processor score should go up as you dial
up the overclocking.
Now, over-overclocking a CPU—overclocking past the point where it’s
stable—can cause it to overheat and crash frequently, and at the extreme,
damage the chip beyond repair. Thus, the most important aspect of overclocking your system involves cooling, so make sure you beef up your computer’s
internal cooling system before you start messing around with overclocking.
(Obviously, your options will be limited here if you’re using a laptop.)
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How Much the CPU Matters
A common misconception is that—with all else being equal—a computer
with a processor running at, say, 2.8 GHz, will naturally be faster than a 2.2
GHz system—and the company that just sold you that 2.8 Ghz PC wouldn’t
have it any other way. Sure, that new system you’re drooling over does seem
a whole lot faster than your one-year-old machine when you play with it in
the gizmo store, but how much is due merely to the processor’s clock speed,
and how much is determined by other factors?
Naturally, the increased processor speed is an obvious benefit in some specific circumstances, such as when you’re applying lens corrections to a few
hundred digital photos, creating a PDF from a 200-page document, or playing
a particularly processor-intensive game. But in most cases, a faster processor
alone won’t get you your email any faster, load a web site any sooner, or get
your book to the publisher when it’s actually due.
Performance
If you think about it, your qualitative assessment of your PC’s speed is based
on its ability to respond immediately to mouse clicks and keystrokes, start
applications quickly, open menus and dialog boxes without a delay, start up
and shut down Windows quickly, and display graphics and animations
smoothly. For the most part, all of these things depend on the amount of system memory (RAM) your PC has, the speed of your hard drive, and the prowess of your video card as much as—if not more than—the speed of your
CPU.
Probably the biggest drag on an older PC’s performance, and the main reason
it may seem so much slower than a new system—not to mention slower than
it might’ve been only last year—is the glut of applications and drivers that
have been installed. Any computer that has been around for a year or more
will likely suffer a slowdown, a problem that can either be remedied by some
of the tricks in the “Hard Disk” section later in this chapter, or by a thorough
cleansing and complete reinstallation of the operating system (see “Install
Windows Vista” in Chapter 1).
So, if you’re wondering how much faster your PC will be if you replace your
2.2 Ghz chip with a 2.4 Ghz chip, the answer is: don’t even bother unless
someone else is paying for it.
Increase your CPU’s speed in stages, if possible; don’t start
off with the fastest setting, or you may end up with a fried
processor and lightly singed eyebrows.
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If you feel that your system isn’t adequately cooled, don’t be afraid to add
more fans, but beware: do it wrong, and you could actually make things
worse. For instance, you need to consider airflow when installing and orienting fans; if the power supply, for instance, exhausts air through the vent in
the back of your PC, it must pull it in through the vent near your processor’s heatsink. So, make sure you orient the CPU fan so the airflow is as
smooth as possible.
Most fans in modern PCs connect directly to special plugs on your motherboard, and are activated when internal thermometers (thermocouples)
detect too high a temperature; these typically do a good job of moderating
their cooling duties so that they don’t produce too much noise. But you may
have to tinker with your BIOS settings to make your PC cooler (which can,
by itself, improve performance), even if it means a little more noise from
your box.
If you’re serious about cooling, there are a number of liquid cooling systems
that promise to keep hot systems cool. But they’re expensive, they work in
large desktop PCs only, and they don’t necessarily reduce noise.
Hard Disk
Your hard disk is more than just a storage device; it’s used to hold your
operating system and to supplement your system’s memory. The speed and
health of your hard disk is one of the most important factors in your computer’s performance, not to mention its reliability and security. Yet it’s also
the one component that requires the most attention and often is the most
neglected. Awww.
The following topics all deal with different aspects of your hard disk and
how you can get Windows to use it most effectively. Later in this section,
you’ll find tips on upgrading and repartitioning your hard disk, to allow you
to keep your disk and its data in tip-top shape.
A Defragmentation Crash Course
The best way to ensure maximum performance from your drive is to
regularly—weekly or biweekly—defragment it (also called optimizing).
Figure 5-8 shows how frequent use can cause files to become fragmented
(broken up), which can slow access and retrieval of data on the drive, as well
as increase the likelihood of lost data. And the fuller the drive, the more serious defragmentation becomes.
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Figure 5-8. File fragmentation on your hard disk can hurt performance and decrease
reliability
The good news is that Vista defragments your drives automatically; by
default, it’s scheduled to run at 1:00 a.m. every Wednesday morning from
now until the end of time.
Disk Defragmenter does its job by rearranging the files on your hard disk to
make them contiguous (not broken into pieces). It also defragments the free
space by consolidating your files as much as it can. When run automatically, it
has no interface to speak of, but rather runs invisibly in the background.
Now for the bad news.
In each successive version of Windows, Microsoft has further buried Disk
Defragmenter; in Vista, it’s basically invisible. For most Vista users, this is a
good thing, but its severely minimalist design prevents just about any
advanced tasks.
For instance, there’s no way to defragment the swap file (virtual memory),
the hibernation file (hiberfil.sys), or any other unmovable files. There’s no
disk map, so you won’t know if there’s a large file that won’t defragment. If
you have more than one hard disk (or partition), there’s no way to defragment all your drives in one pass unless you schedule it.
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PC not on in the middle of the night? Defragmenter will run the next morning while you’re working (when the PC is idle, anyway). Or, if you want to
run it by hand, open Windows Explorer, right-click your hard disk, select
Properties, choose the Tools tab, and click Defragment Now (Figure 5-9).
Figure 5-9. The only interface you’ll ever see to the mysteriously disappearing Disk
Defragmenter tool
Now, to be fair, these are some pretty niche features. If you miss the map,
advanced settings, or detailed reporting of the old-school defragmenters,
check out PerfectDisk (http://raxco.com/, shown in Figure 5-10). It’s not free,
but there’s a time-limited demo on the Raxco web site.
Figure 5-10. PerfectDisk provides the advanced features missing in Vista’s own Disk
Defragmenter
There’s not a whole lot in the way of free defragmenters, but Auslogics Registry Defrag (http://www.auslogics.com/registry-defrag/) promises to improve
Windows performance by shrinking and optimizing your Registry.
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Command-line defragmenter
As it turns out, Vista’s own Disk Defragmenter isn’t quite as feeble as it first
appears. Although it doesn’t offer anything close to the usability of PerfectDisk, there is a little-known command-line version (defrag.exe) that gives
you just a little more freedom than the one you access through Windows
Explorer.
Open a Command Prompt window in administrator mode (right-click the
Command Prompt icon in the Start menu and select Run as administrator),
and then type the following at the prompt:
defrag -a -v c:
and press Enter to generate a report like the one in Figure 5-11.
Performance
Figure 5-11. Defrag.exe lets you view reports and schedule more thorough defragmenting
than the Windows version
To perform a full defragmentation (the default is only a partial defrag), type:
defrag -w c:
Press Ctrl-C at any time to interrupt Defrag. Or, to perform a full defragmentation of all the drives on your PC, while forcing defragmentation on
nearly full volumes that would otherwise be skipped, type:
defrag -c -w -f
For more options, type defrag -? at the prompt and press Enter.
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Enable automatic boot defragments
Here’s a funny little setting in the Registry that seems as though it’s supposed to instruct Windows to defragment your hard disk automatically each
time it starts:
1. Open the Registry Editor (described in Chapter 3).
2. Expand the branches to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Dfrg\
BootOptimizeFunction.
3. Double-click the Enable value, and type Y for its data (or type N to disable it).
The funny part is that this setting is probably already enabled on your system (it’s enabled by default on most Vista systems). Now, have you ever
seen Windows run Disk Defragmenter at startup?
The reason you don’t see it is because it isn’t a full defragment. Instead, it’s
only a boot defragment, which affects only the files registered with Windows’ Prefetch feature (see the upcoming “Keeping an Eye on Prefetch” sidebar) and listed in the Layout.ini file (not a standard .ini file).
You can perform this boot defragment at any time by running the commandline Defrag tool with the undocumented -b option, like this: defrag -b c:.
If in Doubt, Throw It Out
Parkinson’s law states that work expands so as to fill the time available for
its completion. Along the same lines, it’s safe to say that files will quickly
expand to fill the amount of available space on your hard drive.
Low disk space doesn’t just make it harder to store files; without ample
room for virtual memory (discussed later) and temporary files, Windows
will slow to a crawl. Less free disk space also increases file fragmentation
as Windows scrambles to find places to put data; this in turn also lowers
performance. Keeping a healthy amount of free disk space is vital to a wellperforming system.
Additionally, removing drivers and applications that are no longer used
clears more memory and processor cycles for your other applications, which
can substantially improve overall system performance.
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Keeping an Eye on Prefetch
Prefetch is a new feature, introduced in Windows Vista, that stores specific
data about the applications you run in order to help them start faster. Prefetch
is an algorithm that helps anticipate cache misses (times when Windows
requests data that isn’t stored in the disk cache), and stores that data on the
hard disk for easy retrieval.
This data is located in \Windows\Prefetch, and, as the theory goes, periodically clearing out the data in this folder (say, once a month) will improve performance. As new applications are subsequently started, new prefetch data
will be created, which may mean slightly reduced performance at first. But
with older entries gone, there will be less data to parse, and Windows should
be able to locate the data it needs more quickly. Any performance gains you
may see will be minor (if you see any at all), but those users wishing to
squeeze every last CPU cycle out of their computers will want to try this one.
Note that deleting Prefetch data may increase boot time slightly, but only the
next time you boot Windows. Each subsequent boot should proceed normally, since the prefetch data will already be present for the programs Windows loads when it boots.
Performance
If you want to disable Prefetch, open your Registry Editor (Chapter 3), navigate
to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Session Manager\
Memory Management\PrefetchParameters, and change the EnablePrefetcher
value to 0. (Other supported values: 1 to Prefetch applications only, 2 to
Prefetch boot processes, and 3 to Prefetch both.)
If your PC is low on disk space, try NTFS compression.*
Right-click any folder, select Properties, click Advanced, and
turn on the Compress contents to save disk space option.
Note that this can degrade performance, so you’d be wise to
use it only for data that you don’t access or modify often.
Even before you install your first application, your hard disk is littered with
files from the Windows installation that you most likely don’t need. The
standard installation of Windows Vista Ultimate Edition places more than
39,000 files, consuming more than two gigabytes of disk space, on your PC.
* This feature is only available on NTFS-formatted drives. See “Choose the Right Filesystem,” later
in this chapter, for details. It’s also mutually exclusive of the Encrypt contents to secure data
option we’ll discuss in Chapter 8.
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Whether you need a particular file can be subjective; some might consider
the 11 MB of .wav files that Vista puts in your C:\Windows\Media folder to
be excessive, while others may scoff at the notion of worrying about such a
piddly quantity. (To put things in perspective, this is about the same size as
three photos from a 10-megapixel digital camera. It’s also slightly more than
the total capacity of my first hard disk back in 1983.)
Naturally, it makes sense to be cautious when removing any files from your system. The removal of certain files can cause some applications, or even Windows itself, to stop functioning. It’s always good practice to move any
questionable files to a metaphorical purgatory folder before committing to their
disposal. And I don’t have to tell you that backing up your entire hard disk
(Chapter 6) before you clean house is very important and not all that difficult.
The easiest way to delete the stuff Windows considers expendable is to run
the Disk Cleanup tool (cleanmgr.exe), discussed in the “Disable Disk
Cleanup” sidebar.
Disable Disk Cleanup
When your PC starts running out of disk space, Windows will prompt you to
run the Disk Cleanup Wizard, which presents a list of some of the files you
can delete to recover free disk space (the solutions in this book are much more
comprehensive).
The disable this annoying warning, open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3) and
expand the branches to HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\
CurrentVersion\Policies\Explorer. If it’s not already there, create a new
DWORD value (go to Edit ➝ New ➝ DWORD value) called
NoLowDiskSpaceChecks. Double-click the new value and type 1 for its data. Close
the Registry Editor when you’re done; the change will take effect immediately.
If in doubt
Before you delete any questionable file, there are several things you can do
to get a better idea of what the file contains:
Why not open it? Start by double-clicking a suspicious file to open it in its
default application. If you then see the Open With dialog box, it means
the specific filename extension has not yet been registered. In that case,
your best bet is to drag-drop the file into an open Notepad window.
Investigate. Right-click the file, and select Properties. If the file has a Version tab, it’s likely an application, driver, DLL, or other support file.
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Choose the Version tab to view the manufacturer, copyright date, and
possibly the application it accompanies.
Hide it first. If you’re not sure if something should be deleted but want to
try anyway, move it to another directory first to see whether everything
works without it for a week or so. If all is clear, toss it.
Check the date. Check the file’s Last Accessed date (right-click it and select
Properties). The more recent the date, the more likely it’s still being used.
For information on removing a particular application, contact the manufacturer of that application or refer to the application’s documentation.
Windows’ System Restore feature can consume up to 15% of
the total capacity of your hard disk for restore points and
shadow copies. To reduce its usage or turn it off entirely, see
“Go Back in Time with Restore Points and Shadow Copies,”
in Chapter 6.
Optimize Virtual Memory and Cache Settings
One of the most frustrating and irritating things about Windows is the way
that it can seize up for several seconds with seemingly random, pointless
disk activity. One of the causes of this behavior is the way Windows handles disk virtual memory by default.
Because your hard disk is so much slower than your physical memory, the
more swapping Windows has to do, the slower your computer gets. This is
why adding more memory speeds up your PC: it reduces Windows’ appetite for virtual memory. But regardless of the amount of installed physical
memory in your system, there are always things you can do to improve virtual memory performance.
Windows’ defaults here are rather conservative and can fortunately be modified for better performance. It’s important to realize, though, that some
experimentation may be required to achieve the best configuration for your
setup. Different hardware, software, and work habits require different settings; those with ample hard disks, for instance, can afford to devote more
disk space to virtual memory, while others may simply wish to use this procedure to place a cap on the disk space Windows is allowed to consume.
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Normally, Windows loads drivers and applications into memory until it’s
full, and then starts to use part of your hard disk to “swap” out information, freeing up more memory for higher-priority tasks. The file that Windows uses for this type of “virtual memory” is the paging file (a.k.a. swap
file), pagefile.sys, and it is stored in the root folder of your Windows drive.
Part 1: Virtual memory settings
One of the reasons the default settings yield such poor performance is that
the swap file grows and shrinks with use, quickly becoming very fragmented (as illustrated by Figure 5-8, earlier in this chapter). The first step is
to eliminate this problem by setting a constant swap-file size.
Note that making the swap file constant will also result in a more constant
amount of free disk space. If your hard disk is getting full, consider this solution to restrict Windows from using up every last bit of free space. (Or better yet, upgrade your hard disk.)
1. In Control Panel, open the System page and click the Advanced system
settings link (or run SystemPropertiesAdvanced.exe).
2. Under the Advanced tab, click the Settings button in the Performance
section.
3. On the Performance Options page, choose the Advanced tab, and then
click Change to open the Virtual Memory window shown in Figure 5-12.
Figure 5-12. Change the way Windows handles virtual memory to improve overall
system performance
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4. The virtual memory settings are set for each drive in your system independently. If you have only one drive, virtual memory will already be
enabled for that drive. If you have more than one drive or partition, virtual memory will be enabled only on the Windows drive by default.
Start by selecting the drive that currently holds your paging file (shown
in the righthand column) from the Paging file size for each drive list.
Another way to stop Windows from using the hard disk so
heavily is to disable virtual memory altogether, but the consequence of short-changing Windows of its resources will
easily outweigh any performance gains. A better choice is to
move the swap file to a different physical drive than the one
on which Windows resides; that way, when Vista accesses
virtual memory, it won’t suck the life out of your primary
drive.
5. To set a constant size for your virtual memory, select Custom size, and
then type the same value for both Initial size and Maximum size.
Important: after you’ve made a change for any drive, click Set to commit the change before moving on to another drive or clicking OK.
6. Press OK on each of the three open dialogs.
If you have only resized your swap file, the change will take effect immediately. But if you’ve added (or removed) a swap file on any drive, you’ll need
to restart Windows before it uses your new settings.
Part 2: Defragment the paging file
The steps in the previous section eliminate the possibility of your swap file
becoming fragmented, but they won’t cure an already fragmented one.
You’ll need to defragment your virtual memory for the best performance,
but the good news is that you only need to do it once if you have a constantsize paging file.
There are several ways to defragment your swap file:
Use PerfectDisk. Use an advanced defragmenter like PerfectDisk, discussed in “A Defragmentation Crash Course,” earlier in this chapter.
Just instruct it to defragment your system files, and it will schedule a
defragmentation for the next time you start Windows.
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The size, specified in megabytes, is up to you. If you have the space, it’s
usually a good idea to allocate two to three times the amount of
installed RAM (e.g., 4,096–6,144 MB of virtual memory for 2 GB of
physical memory), but you may wish to experiment with different sizes
for the one that works best for you.
Use another drive temporarily. If you have more than one partition or hard
disk in your system, start by moving your swap file to a different drive letter, as described in the previous section. Then, use the command-line Disk
Defragmenter to perform a thorough defragment of your Windows drive,
or whatever drive you’d like to use for virtual memory, by typing:
defrag -w -f c:
and pressing Enter. Again, see “A Defragmentation Crash Course,” earlier in this chapter, for details. When it’s done, move the swap file to its
new home, where it will rest nicely in the newly allocated contiguous
block of free space.
Turn off virtual memory temporarily. If you don’t have a second drive,
your other choice is to disable virtual memory altogether by clicking No
paging file and then Set in the Virtual Memory window (see
Figure 5-12, earlier). After restarting Windows, run Disk Defragmenter
as described previously to set aside a large chunk of contiguous free
space. When you’re done, go back to the Virtual Memory window, and
re-enable the paging file, making sure to set a constant size.
Clear the paging file automatically. See Part 3, next, for another way to
reduce fragmentation in your paging file.
Part 3: Clear the paging file on shutdown
It’s possible to have Windows delete your paging file each time you shut down
Windows. You may want to do this if you have a multiboot system (see
Chapter 1), wherein each operating system on your PC has its own virtual
memory settings. If the paging file from one OS is present while the other is
running, it may cause a conflict and will certainly waste a lot of disk space.
If your paging file becomes corrupted or highly fragmented, Windows may
load more slowly (or not at all). Deleting the paging file automatically forces
Windows to recreate it each time it starts, which may alleviate this problem.
(Naturally, if you’ve gone to the steps to defragment your paging file, as
described earlier in this topic, you probably won’t want to use this feature,
lest it become fragmented again when it’s recreated.)
1. Open the Local Security Policy console (secpol.msc). See Chapter 8 for
more information on the settings in this window.
2. Expand the Local Policies branch and click the Security Options folder.
3. In the right pane, double-click the Shutdown: Clear virtual memory
pagefile.
4. Select Enabled and then click OK. You’ll need to restart Windows for
the change to take effect.
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Part 4: Advanced settings for the adventurous
Like virtual memory settings, disk cache settings in Windows Vista aren’t
necessarily optimized for the best performance, but rather for the best compromise between performance and compatibility with older PCs.
You’ll probably need to experiment with different values
until you find the ones that work best for your system. Since
it’s possible to render Windows inoperable with incorrect
settings here, you’ll want to back up your PC before you
begin.
Start by opening the Registry Editor (described in Chapter 3), and expanding the branches to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\
Session Manager\Memory Management. Some of the more interesting values in
this key include the following:
DisablePagingExecutive
Values: 0 = disabled (default), 1 = enabled.
Enabling this setting will prevent Windows from paging certain system
processes to disk, which effectively will keep more of the operating system in the faster physical memory, in turn making Windows much more
responsive.
By default, Windows uses only 8 MB of memory for the filesystem
cache. Enabling this option will allow Windows to use all but 4 MB of
your computer’s memory for the filesystem cache. This will improve
Windows’ performance, but potentially at the expense of the performance of some of your more memory-intensive applications.
This option can also be changed by opening the System page in Control
Panel: click the Advanced system settings link, click Settings in the Performance section, and then choose the Advanced tab. The Memory
usage section has two settings: Programs and System cache, which correspond to the 0 and 1 values here.
Other values in this key include PagingFiles, which is more easily set in the
Virtual Memory window described in “Part 1: Virtual memory settings” and
ClearPageFileAtShutdown, more easily set in the Local Security Settings console, as described in “Part 3: Clear the paging file on shutdown.”
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LargeSystemCache
Values: 0 = standard (default), 1 = large.
Choose the Right Filesystem
The filesystem is the invisible mechanism on your hard disk that is responsible for keeping track of all the data stored on the drive. Think of it as a massive table of contents, matching up each filename with its corresponding
data stored somewhere on the disk surface. Vista supports three filesystem
types:*
FAT (File Allocation Table, 16-bit)
FAT is used for all drives under 512 MB, such as flash memory cards and
floppy disks. The largest drive supported by the FAT filesystem is 2 GB.
FAT32 (File Allocation Table, 32-bit)
Designed to overcome the 2 GB partition limit with the FAT system,
FAT32 is supported by every version of Windows since Windows 95
OSR2. Today, it’s used mostly for flash memory cards larger than 2 GB,
and on older PCs running Windows 98 and Windows Me. In addition
to the support for larger drives, it also supports smaller file clusters (see
the upcoming “Understanding Cluster Sizes” sidebar), so it stores information more efficiently than FAT.
NTFS (NT Filesystem)
NTFS, designed from the ground up to completely replace FAT/FAT32, is
the default filesystem on all Vista PCs. (Specifically, Vista supports NTFS
version 3.1.) It offers security features like encryption and permissions (see
Chapter 8), compression, and quotas. It’s typically faster and more reliable than FAT/FAT32, and supports drives up to 2 terabytes in size.
If Windows Vista is the only operating system on your computer, you
should be using NTFS—no question. The only compelling reason to use
another filesystem is if you have a dual-boot setup with a very old version of
Windows, in which case you’d need to choose a filesystem recognized by all
operating systems on your computer. Table 5-2 shows which filesystems are
supported by all recent versions of Microsoft Windows.
Table 5-2. Filesystems supported by recent versions of Windows
FAT
FAT32
NTFS
Windows Vista
✓ (data only)
✓ (data only)
✓ (v3.1)
Windows XP, 2003
✓
✓
✓ (v3.1)
Windows 2000
✓
✓
✓ (v3.0)
Windows Me, 98, and 95 ORS2
✓
✓
* There’s actually a fourth type, CDFS, used by CD-ROMs.
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Table 5-2. Filesystems supported by recent versions of Windows (continued)
FAT
Windows NT 4.0
✓
Windows 95
✓
FAT32
NTFS
✓ (v1.2)
Understanding Cluster Sizes
Clusters are the smallest units into which a hard disk’s space can be divided.
A hard disk formatted with the traditional FAT system, found in Windows 95
and an ancient operating system called “DOS,” can have no more than
65,536 clusters on each drive or partition. This means that the larger the hard
disk, the larger the size of each cluster.
Performance
The problem with large clusters is that they result in a lot of wasted disk
space. Each cluster can store no more than a single file (or a part of a single
file); if a file does not consume an entire cluster, the remaining space is
wasted. For example, a 2 GB drive would have a cluster size of 32 KB; a 1 KB
file on a disk with a 32 KB cluster size will consume 32 KB of disk space; a 33
KB file on the same drive will consume 64 KB of space, and so on. The extra
31 KB left over from the 33 KB file is called slack space, and it can’t be used
by any other files. With thousands of files (especially those tiny shortcuts littered throughout a Windows installation), the amount of wasted slack space
on a sizeable hard disk can add up to hundreds of megabytes of wasted space.
The NTFS filesystem used by Vista can handle more than four billion clusters,
resulting in much smaller cluster sizes. Now, four billion clusters, at 4 kilobytes each, gives NTFS a maximum partition size of 14.9 terabytes (15,259
GB). Of course, if this drive were commercially available, its manufacturer
would contend that 1 terabyte is equal to 1,000,000,000,000 bytes, and market the unit as a 16.4 TB (16,384 GB) drive.
You can see how much space is wasted by any given file by right-clicking on
the file icon, selecting Properties, and comparing the Size value with the Size
on disk value. The same works for multiple selected files and folders; highlight all the objects in your root directory to see the total amount of wasted space
on your drive. To find the current cluster size of your drive, just open the properties sheet for a small file you know will only consume a single cluster (such as
a Windows Shortcut); its Size on disk will be equal to the size of one cluster.
To find out which filesystem is currently being used by a particular drive on
your PC, just right-click the drive in Windows Explorer and select Properties. Or, open the Disk Management utility (diskmgmt.msc) to see an overview of all of your drives.
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Convert your drives to NTFS
If you’ve upgraded your PC from an earlier version of Windows, there’s a
chance you’re still using the FAT32 filesystem. Assuming you don’t need to
keep FAT32 for compatibility with other operating systems, you should convert your drive to NTFS. The process is easy, relatively quick, and won’t
harm your data (although you should back up beforehand just to be safe).
Windows Vista provides the FAT to NTFS Conversion Utility (convert.exe)
for this purpose. To convert drive C:, for example, just open a Command
Prompt window (cmd.exe) and type:
convert c: /fs:ntfs
Include the /v option to run in “verbose” mode, which provides more information as it does its job. Type convert /? for other, more esoteric options.
Note that this is a one-way conversion, at least when using the software
included with Windows Vista. If you need to convert an NTFS drive to
FAT32 for some reason, you’ll need a third-party utility such as Disk Director (http://www.acronis.com/).
Advanced NTFS Settings
The extra features of the NTFS filesystem discussed in the previous section
come at a price, namely a small amount of disk space and performance overhead. The following settings allow you to fine-tune NTFS to squeeze the
most performance out of your NTFS drive; experiment with these settings to
find the configuration that works best for you.
Start by opening the Registry Editor (Chapter 3) and expanding the branches to
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Filesystem.
Double-click any one of the following values to change its data. If the value
is missing, create it by going to Edit ➝ New ➝ DWORD Value, and then
typing the name exactly as shown.
NtfsDisable8dot3NameCreation
Values: 0 = enabled (default), 1 = disabled.
Early versions of Windows and DOS didn’t support so-called long filenames, but rather allowed only eight-character filenames followed by
three-letter filename extensions. Although Windows 95 and all subsequent versions of Windows more or less eliminated this restriction,
an eight-dot-three version of a filename is generated with each file you
create to maintain compatibility with older applications. For example,
the file A letter to Mom.wpd could also be referenced as alette~1.wpd.
If you don’t use older 16-bit programs, you can disable Vista’s creation
of these 8.3 aliases by changing this value to 1 (the default is zero).
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NtfsDisableLastAccessUpdate
Values: 0 = enabled (default), 1 = disabled.
Windows keeps a record of the time and date every file and folder on
your hard disk was created, as well as when it was last modified and last
accessed. You can stop Windows from updating the “last accessed” date
for folders every time they’re opened by changing the value to 1 (the
default is zero), which may improve drive performance. This setting has
no effect on files.
NtfsMftZoneReservation
Values: 1 = small (default), 2 = medium, 3 = large, 4 = maximum.
The core of the NTFS filesystem is the master file table (MFT), a comprehensive index of every file on the disk (including the MFT itself).
Since disk defragmenters can’t defragment the MFT (also known as
$mft), Windows reserves a certain amount of extra space for it to grow,
in an effort to reduce its eventual fragmentation. The more fragmented
the MFT gets, the more it will hamper overall disk performance.
The NtfsMftZoneReservation setting allows you to increase
the space reserved for the MFT. Although the default is 1,
values of 2 or 3 are probably better for most systems with
large hard disks; the maximum value of 4 is good for very
large drives with a lot of small files. Specify too small of a
value here, and the MFT will become fragmented more
quickly as it grows; too large of a value, and it will consume
(waste) too much disk space.
The problem is that changing this setting will not have any effect on
your drive’s current MFT, but rather only influence its future growth.
For this reason, the earlier this value is increased in the life of a disk, the
better. To defragment or rebuild the MFT on your Windows drive,
you’ll need to transfer your operating system to a new drive, as
described in the next section.
You’ll need to restart Windows for any of these changes to take effect.
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You can determine the current size and fragmentation level of the MFT
on any drive by using the command-line Disk Defragmenter tool
(defrag.exe) along with the -a parameter, as described in “A Defragmentation Crash Course,” earlier in this chapter. The numbers relating to
the MFT are shown at the end of the Volume Information report. Probably the most interesting statistic here, though, is Percent MFT in use.
The higher the number, the less space the MFT has to grow (and it will).
Transfer Windows to Another Hard Disk
Each new version of Windows consumes something like four times that of
its predecessor. That kind of bloat would cause an uproar if the sizes of
commercially available hard disks weren’t growing at an even faster rate.
Luckily, a new drive is an inexpensive way to improve performance as well
as get more space for your stuff. And there are basically two approaches:
Add a second drive. Hard drive manufacturers sell a lot of external USB
drives for this purpose. It’s the easiest approach, taking only a few minutes to hook up, but it does very little to improve performance. Why
run Windows on an aging 60 GB drive, while your photos sit happily on
a much faster 500 GB drive?
Replace the primary drive. Use this approach if you want to throw away
that old 60 GB drive, and use only the 500 GB drive for Windows and
all your data. Not only will this give you better performance, you’ll have
a lot less to worry about if you’re running Windows on a new drive
rather than one that’s seen thousands of hours of use. The downside is
that it’s more work to completely replace your old drive, and that’s
what this section is about.
Thanks to improvements in technology, rapidly dropping prices of new hard
disks, and a nifty new tool in Windows Vista, it’s easier than ever to replace
your old hard disk.
The procedure goes like this: first, connect your new drive to your PC alongside your old drive. Then, create an image of your old hard disk—a snapshot of every byte of data on the entire drive—and write the image to your
new hard disk. Finally, disconnect the old drive and put the new one in its
place.
Start by purchasing an SATA/IDE to USB 2.0 Adapter, like the $20 Vantec
unit shown in Figure 5-13. Alternatively, you can use an external hard drive
enclosure, although a unit like this may be a better investment, as it supports SATA, 3.5 desktop IDE, and 2.5 notebook IDE drives all from the
same cable.
Next, plug the drive into the adapter, plug the power supply into the drive,
and then plug the adapter into a free USB port on your PC.
Now, I know what you’re thinking: why don’t I just plug the drive directly
into my SATA or IDE controller? While it’s true that you can connect
your new drive to your motherboard’s controller, there are several reasons to use a USB adapter like this one instead. First, it’s quick and easy;
you don’t need to take your PC apart (yet) and you don’t have to leave the
new drive dangling from the side of your box while you transfer your data.
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Figure 5-13. Use a handy external USB adapter like this one to hook up your new drive
to your PC
Second, it’s great for laptops that may not have a way to connect two drives
at once. Third, it avoids the nasty problems you’d encounter if your PC tried
to boot to the wrong drive in the middle of the procedure. And last but not
least, when you’re done, you can use the adapter to clear off the old drive. A
device like this makes things so much easier.
On the first page of the New Simple Volume Wizard, click Next, and then
specify the size of the new partition.
You’ll need to make two partitions on the new drive: the primary partition
to become your new boot drive, and a secondary partition to temporarily
hold the backup of your existing data. The second partition needs to be no
larger than the capacity of your old hard disk, so set the primary partition to
the total size of the new drive minus the total size of the old drive. For
instance, if you’re replacing a 60 GB hard disk with a 500 GB hard disk, set
the first partition to 440 GB, and use the remaining 60 GB for the second.
So, at the prompt, type a value, in megabytes, for the size of the primary
partition (i.e., 440000 for 440 GB) and then click Next. Follow the prompts
to complete the wizard; make sure to format the drive with the NTFS filesystem, but don’t assign a drive letter at this time.
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When Windows detects and installs the new drive, it’ll show up in Disk
Drives branch in Device Manager (devmgmt.msc). (If it doesn’t, see
Chapter 6.) As soon as Windows finishes installing the necessary drivers,
open Disk Management (diskmgmt.msc), right-click the new drive in the
lower pane, and select New Simple Volume, as shown in Figure 5-14.
Figure 5-14. Use the Disk Management tool to prepare the new drive
Now, create the second partition in the remaining unused space, and have it
consume the rest of the drive. Again, format it as NTFS, but this time, assign
a drive letter (your choice).
At this point, you can copy your data to the new drive in either of two ways:
Use Complete PC Backup and Restore. If you have the Business, Ultimate,
or Enterprise edition of Vista, you can use the backup software built in
to Windows to back up your entire hard disk onto the second partition
you just created, as described in “Back Up Your Entire System,” in
Chapter 6.
Then, power down your PC, remove your old drive, connect the new one
to your primary controller, and then boot your PC. Follow the instructions in “Recover Your System After a Crash,” also in Chapter 6, to
restore your backup to the primary partition on the new drive.
When that’s done, and you’re able to boot Windows with the new
drive, use the Disk Management tool to delete the secondary partition
and extend the primary partition so that it consumes the whole drive, as
described in “Work with Partitions,” later in this chapter.
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Use third-party disk imaging software. If you’re using the Home Basic or
Home Premium edition and don’t have access to Complete PC Backup
and Restore—or if you just want to complete the whole process without
having to dig up your Windows installation disc—you can use third-party
software instead. Try DriveImage XML (http://www.runtime.org) or
HDClone Free Edition (http://www.miray.de), both free, or use a commercial product like Acronis True Image Home (http://www.acronis.com).
Use your disk-imaging software to create an image of your old hard disk,
and save it to the secondary partition of the new drive. Then use the
same software to restore the image to the new drive’s primary partition.
Next, open the Disk Management tool. Delete the secondary partition
and extend the primary partition so that it consumes the whole drive, as
described in “Work with Partitions,” later in this chapter. Then, rightclick the sole remaining partition and select Mark Partition as Active.
Shut down Windows and then unplug both drives. Set the old drive
aside and connect the new drive in its place.
Turn on your PC, and Windows should boot to the new drive. If it doesn’t,
see “What to Do When Windows Won’t Start” in Chapter 6.
What to look for in a new hard disk
Money is usually the deciding factor when choosing a drive, but with more
money, people usually just opt for more gigabytes. If you want the best performance, though, consider these factors to be at least as important:
RPM (revolutions per minute)
This is the speed at which the disk spins; higher numbers are faster.
Cheap drives spin at 5,400 RPM, but you shouldn’t settle for anything less
than 7,200 RPM. If you’re serious about performance, get a more expensive (and harder to find) 10,000 RPM (10k) or 15,000 RPM (15k) drive.
Buffer (measured in megabytes)
The buffer is memory (RAM) installed in the drive’s circuitry that allows
it to accept data from your computer faster than it is able to physically
write to the disk surface, and to read data from the disk surface faster
when your PC isn’t necessarily ready for it. A larger buffer is better;
don’t settle for less than 8 megabytes.
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The speed of your hard disk is a major factor of your system’s overall performance, at least as much as its capacity. After all, the faster it’s able to find
data and transfer it, the quicker Windows will load, the faster your virtual
memory will be, and the less time it will take to start applications and copy
files.
MTBF (measured in hours)
It doesn’t matter how fast a drive is if it dies on you. The higher the
MTBF—Mean Time Between Failures—the more reliable the drive is
supposed to be. Of course, this isn’t a guarantee, but rather merely an
indicator of the market for which the drive was designed. Hard disks
designed for servers tend to have much higher MTBF ratings than the
low-end disks available on most computer-store shelves.
If you’re buying a drive for use in a DVR (Digital Video
Recorder) or HTPC (Home Theater PC), it’s also wise to
seek out the quietest drive you can find. Although manufacturers offer very little in the way of useful, reliable noise data,
you can usually cull pretty good feedback from HTPC discussion groups on the Web.
Aside from the specs, you’ll also need to consider the interface, the connector on the back of the drive that must match the drive controller and cable
already in your PC. Here are your choices:
SATA (a.k.a. Serial ATA)
For most Vista users, SATA is probably your best bet. It’s faster than
IDE (next), supports hot-swapping (connecting and disconnecting while
the PC is on), and is easier to hook up (no jumpers or ribbon cables).
Look for a SATA 3.0 (also known as SATA II) drive with the NCQ
(Native command queuing) feature for the best performance.
The main drawback is that SATA connectors are flimsy and easily broken, so if you’ll be hot-swapping your drives, consider instead eSATA
(SATA with a stronger connector for external drives) or SCSI (described
shortly).
ATA (a.k.a. Parallel ATA or IDE)
This interface is now totally obsolete. Even if you have an older PC with
only an IDE controller on the motherboard, it’s usually a better idea to
get a SATA card ($20–$30) and a SATA drive than to invest in an older
IDE drive.
Consider IDE only if you have a laptop that just takes 2.5-inch IDE
drives, or if you need to set up a dual-boot system with an older version
of Windows that doesn’t support SATA.
SCSI/SAS
Ultra320 SCSI is still faster than SATA, and will likely be your only
choice if you want a super-fast 15K RPM drive. But given that SCSI controllers are unreasonably expensive, as are SCSI drives, consider this
option only if you absolutely need the fastest drive money can buy.
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USB/Firewire
If you’re buying an external drive—which is great for backups, as I’ll
explain in Chapter 6—you may be tempted to get a USB drive or enclosure. While USB 2.0 is reasonably fast at 480 mbps, and Firewire 800 is
slightly faster at 800 mbps, both of these standards will restrict the
speed of your drive. For faster backups and less time spent transferring
files, you’d be hard-pressed to beat eSATA (external SATA), which supports speeds up to 2,400 mbps. Most desktop PC and some higher-end
laptops include eSATA ports for this purpose, but if your PC doesn’t have
one, you can get an internal-to-external (SATA-to-eSATA) adapter for just
a few dollars, or a standalone eSATA controller for not much more.
Finally, there’s the form factor, and this one’s easy. Desktop PCs use socalled 3.5-inch drives, while laptops use 2.5-inch drives. If you’re getting an
external drive, you have a choice between the two; 2.5-inch drives are
smaller and lighter-weight, but you get much more speed and capacity for
your money with a 3.5-inch drive.
Work with Partitions
Most hard disks are known by a single drive letter, usually C:. However, any
drive can be divided into several partitions, each with its own drive letter.
But you also may want to chop up your drive into smaller partitions. For
example, if you have a 500 GB hard disk, you may choose to divide it up
into four 125 GB partitions, or perhaps a 300 GB partition and two 100 GB
partitions. There are a bunch of reasons why you might want to do this:
Organization
Use multiple partitions to further organize your files and make your stuff
easier to find. For example, put Windows on one drive, work documents
on another, games on another, and music and other media on yet another.
Isolation of system and data
You can use partitions to isolate your programs from your data. For
example, place Windows on drive C:, your personal documents on drive
D:, and your virtual memory (swap file) and temporary files on drive E:.
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Most PC manufacturers these days ship partitioned hard disks. In fact, your
drive may have one primary partition with all your data, plus another,
smaller partition containing your PC’s recovery data (to restore your hard
disk to the state it was in when you bought it), and sometimes a third EISA
Configuration partition (discussed later in this chapter). If you decide to nix
the other two partitions, you can combine them and finally start using all
the space on your drive.
This setup gives you the distinct advantage of being able to format your
operating system partition and reinstall Windows without touching
your personal data, and also makes it easier to back up just your data.
Performance
As illustrated in “A Defragmentation Crash Course,” earlier in this
chapter, the data on your hard drive can become badly fragmented with
use, which hurts performance and increases the chances of data corruption. Because files cannot become fragmented across partition boundaries, you can dramatically reduce fragmentation by separating
frequently accessed files, like those in the Windows and Program Files
folders, from frequently updated files, like your virtual memory (swap
file) and temporary files, as well as infrequently updated files like photos and music.
Dual-boot
To set up a dual-boot partition, described in Chapter 1, you’ll need to
create a separate partition for each operating system you install.
Server
If you’re setting up a web server (or other type of network file server) or
if you’re participating in peer-to-peer file sharing, it’s a good practice to
put the publicly accessible folders on their own partition. This not only
helps to secure the operating system from unauthorized access, but
allows the OS to be upgraded or replaced without disrupting the shared
folders and programs.
The Disk Management nickel tour
Windows Vista comes with several disk partitioning tools, but the most useful is Disk Management, shown in Figure 5-15. You can use Disk Management to view the partitions of any drive on your system, as well as create,
delete, and resize partitions, and even change the drive letters for any drives
or partitions on your PC. Open the Start menu, and in the Search box, type
diskmgmt.msc and press Enter.
The main Disk Management window is divided into two panes, each of
which shows the same information in different ways. (You can change the
arrangement of the panes by going to View ➝ Top or View ➝ Bottom, but
Disk Management won’t remember any of your settings for next time.)
The Graphical View, shown in the lower pane by default, is easily the most
useful, and is the subject of most of the rest of this section. The Volume
List, shown in the upper pane by default, shows only your hard disk drive
letters, and is a subset of the drive list in Windows Explorer. And the Disk
List is merely a list of the physical disk devices in your PC, somewhat like
the Disk Drives branch in Device Manager.
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Figure 5-15. Open the Disk Management utility to add or remove partitions, shuffle drive
letters, and even change the way volumes are mounted
By default, the boxes in the Graphical View representing
multiple partitions (volumes) are not displayed proportionally to their size; a 20 GB partition will appear to be roughly
the same size as a 100 GB partition. To fix this, go to View ➝
Settings, choose the Scaling tab, and select the According to
capacity, using linear scaling option in both sections. You
can also customize the program’s colors with the Appearance tab, but unless you follow the steps in the upcoming
“Save Settings in Disk Management” sidebar, your changes
will be lost as soon as you close the window.
Disk Management takes an active role in making drives available in Windows Explorer. Most of the time, as soon as you insert a flash memory card
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Save Settings in Disk Management
The Disk Management tool is actually what Microsoft calls a “snap-in” for
the Microsoft Management Console (mmc.exe). Other snap-ins include
Device Manager, the Services window, and the Group Policy Object Editor.
The .msc file you launch to open the Disk Management tool is not actually the
program, but rather just a small console file, which contains only the settings
for the current view. Although you can’t save your customizations to
diskmgmt.msc, you can create a new console file with the snap-ins you need,
and customize it to your heart’s content:
1. Open the Microsoft Management Console (mmc.exe). A new, blank
Console Root window will appear in the MMC window.
2. Go to File ➝ Add/Remove Snap-in, and then click Add.
3. Select Disk Management from the Available Standalone Snap-ins list,
and then click Add.
4. From the window that appears, select This Computer and then click
Finish.
5. You can add other snap-ins at this point, or just click OK when you’re
done.
6. If Disk Management is the only snap-in you selected, highlight the Disk
Management entry in the tree on the left to show the tool in the center
pane. Then go to View ➝ Customize, turn off the Console tree and
Action pane options, and click OK.
7. Now, you can customize Disk Management as you see fit. For instance,
to show only the Graphical View, select View ➝ Top ➝ Graphical
View and then View ➝ Bottom ➝ Hidden.
8. When you’re finished customizing, go to File ➝ Save to save your custom console view into a new .msc file such as Disk Management.msc.
The next time you use Disk Management, just open your custom .msc file
instead of diskmgmt.msc to use your customized tool.
into your card reader or pop in a CD or DVD, the new volume appears in
Disk Management and Explorer. But sometimes, Disk Management may fail
to acknowledge that you’ve connected a device (say, an external hard disk),
and as a result, its drive letter won’t appear in Explorer. To force Windows
to recognize your drive changes, press the F5 key or go to Action ➝ Rescan
Disks, and in a few seconds, the newly connected drive should appear in all
windows. If it doesn’t, open up Device Manager, and from the Action menu
there, select Scan for hardware changes.
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In the Graphical View, you’ll see different kinds of partitions; here are the
most common:
Primary partition
Most partitions are of this type. If you have more than one partition, the
first usable partition (one that can hold data) is almost always a primary. Primary partitions are marked with a dark-blue stripe by default.
The old-school approach is to have only one primary partition, followed by an extended partition (discussed next). This is no longer
needed for NTFS volumes; in fact, if you’re setting up a dual-boot system, each OS must have its own primary partition.
Extended partition
The extended partition is a holdover from earlier days, and was used
when a drive had two or more partitions. It doesn’t actually hold data, it
merely serves as a container for one or more logical drives (discussed
next). Extended partitions and logical drives are more or less obsolete
today (Vista’s Disk Management tool can’t even create them), but you
may see them on older partitioned drives. The extended partition is, by
default, shown as a dark-green outline surrounding any logical drives.
EISA Configuration
This is a tiny partition that holds configuration data for the rest of the
drive, and it is typically placed at the beginning of the disk. You’ll see
this on most RAID drives (see Chapter 6) and often on drives installed
in mass-produced PCs. Disk Management can’t delete EISA Configuration partitions, but Acronis Disk Director (see “Resize and move partitions,” later in this chapter) can.
Create and delete partitions
Every hard disk must be partitioned before it can be used, even if that disk
only gets a single partition. Here’s how to prepare a brand-new hard disk, an
unnecessary step when you decide to “Transfer Windows to Another Hard
Disk,” as explained earlier in this chapter.
First, open Disk Management (diskmgmt.msc), and make sure the Graphical View, shown by default in the lower pane, is visible. Enlarge the pane
and the window if necessary to see all your drives.
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Logical drive
If you have a drive with an extended partition, each volume inside is
called a logical drive. See the notes for primary and extended partitions,
earlier, for details. By default, logical drives are identified in light blue.
To create a new partition, right-click a region of your disk marked Unallocated, and select New Simple Volume. The steps in the New Simple Volume Wizard are pretty self-explanatory, and basically involve dialing in a
size for the new partition (use the maximum if you want to use the whole
drive), choosing a drive letter, and picking a filesystem (choose NTFS, as
described “Choose the Right Filesystem,” earlier in this chapter).
Or, to delete an existing partition, right-click the partition and select Delete
Volume.
If you delete a partition, all the data on that volume will be
permanently lost. This happens immediately, and there is no
undo. Data on other partitions of the same physical drive
won’t be affected. If you wish to make a partition smaller or
larger without erasing the data, see the “Resize and move
partitions” section, which follows.
In most cases, newly created or deleted partitions will appear (or disappear)
in Windows Explorer immediately.
Resize and move partitions
Say you just bought a laptop with an 80 GB hard disk and then discover that
Windows Explorer only sees about 70 GB of it. You open Disk Management and discover that there’s an extra partition, labeled “Recovery,” consuming about 8 GB. How do you get rid of the extra partition and reclaim
all that space for your data?
Or, perhaps you’ve decided to divide a 320 GB hard disk—one that’s currently holding an active Windows installation—into two 160 GB partitions.
How do you make space for the second partition without deleting the single
partition that’s currently using the whole disk?
The solution is to resize the partition, which—thanks to some improvements in Disk Manager since Windows XP—is not all that hard to do. And
you don’t even have to take the data off first. (Of course, despite this confident prose, it’s still wise to back up your entire drive before messing with
partitions.)
To begin, open Disk Management and expand the Graphical View pane so
you can see all your drives.
In the case of the unwanted “Recovery” partition, start by right-clicking it in
Disk Management and selecting Delete Volume.
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You can’t undo Delete Volume, so make sure you can live
without the “Recovery” partition before you proceed. In
most cases, it isn’t necessary to keep this volume unless you
plan on wiping your hard disk and reinstalling Vista without
the original installation DVD. If you don’t have a disc, check
with your PC’s manufacturer to see whether they can provide you with one.
Once the “Recovery” partition is gone, you’ll have a swath of empty space
marked Unallocated at the end of your drive. (If it’s at the beginning, you’ll
need a tool like Disk Director, discussed in the next section.) Now all you
have to do is right-click your primary partition and select Extend Volume to
resize the remaining partition so that it consumes the unused space.
If you want to do the opposite—that is, make room at the end of the disk for
a new partition—just right-click the primary partition and select Shrink Volume. After a bit of pondering, Disk Management will show the Shrink dialog (Figure 5-16), which will probably show you less “available shrink
space” than you thought you had coming.
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Figure 5-16. Use the Shrink Volume window to make space on your drive for new
partitions
Say you have about 150 GB of data on your 500 GB drive, but the Shrink
window says you can only reclaim about 75 GB (7,500 MB) of free space.
Why so stingy?
It turns out that Windows doesn’t necessarily store all your data at the
beginning of a partition, but rather scatters it around to help reduce fragmentation. As a result, there may be some data toward the end, serving as a barrier to prevent Disk Management from shrinking your drive past that point.
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The solution is to use the command-line Disk Defragmenter tool (defrag.exe)
with the -w parameter, as described in “A Defragmentation Crash Course,”
earlier in this chapter. When that’s done, return to Disk Management and
try Shrink Volume once more.
If the Shrink Volume feature in Disk Management still won’t give you as
much space as you need, you’ll need a more capable program like Disk
Director, covered next.
Alternatives to Disk Management
The Disk Management utility is not your only choice when it comes to
repartitioning drives, but as far as the tools included with Windows Vista
are concerned, it’s the best one.
The other usable alternative is Vista’s DiskPart utility (diskpart.exe), a way of
viewing, adding, and removing partitions from the Command Prompt; see the
upcoming sidebar “The DiskPart Command-Line Tool” for a walkthrough.
In the good old days—also known simply as the old days—the only way to
resize partitions without deleting the data on them was to use a program
called PartitionMagic. But since Symantec bought PartitionMagic and ruined
it, the best choice now is Acronis Disk Director (http://www.acronis.com/),
shown in Figure 5-17.
Figure 5-17. To move partitions, delete EISA Configuration volumes, and more, use
Acronis Disk Director
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The DiskPart Command-Line Tool
DiskPart is essentially the command-line equivalent to the Disk Management
tool, and can be useful in certain situations (such as when Windows won’t
start).
You’ll need to run DiskPart in administrator mode (see Chapter 8); one way
to do this is to open your Start menu, type diskpart in the Search box, and
then when diskpart.exe appears in the search results, right-click it and select
Run as administrator.
Once it’s running, type help at any time to see a list of commands. To get
started, here’s how to extend a volume in DiskPart:
1. At the DISKPART> prompt, type:
list disk
to display all the drives on your computer. Each drive will have a disk
number, starting with 0 (zero).
2. Unless you have only one drive, you’ll have to tell DiskPart which drive
to use, like this:
select disk n
where n represents the number of the disk to modify.
3. Next, at the DISKPART> prompt, type:
list volume
Performance
to display all the volumes on the selected disk. Likewise, each volume
has a volume number, starting with 0 (zero).
4. Regardless of the number of volumes on the drive, you’ll have to tell
DiskPart which one to use, like this:
select volume 2
5. Now that you’ve selected the partition to expand, go ahead and issue
this command:
extend
to extend the volume. The extend command takes no options and displays no warning message or confirmation. The process begins immediately after you press the Enter key, and should take only a few seconds.
6. When it’s done, type exit to quit the DiskPart utility.
See Chapter 9 for more information on the Command Prompt.
Among other things, Disk Director lets you move partitions, resize from the
left (beginning) or right (end), and delete otherwise undeletable partitions,
such as the EISA Configuration volumes discussed earlier in this section.
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Unfortunately, Disk Director costs money, and if it’s not something you’re
going to use every day, you may be interested in a free, albeit less convenient, solution. You can use QTParted, the partition editor that comes with
Linux. Now, you don’t have to install Linux, but rather only boot off a
Linux Live CD like the one available at http://iso.linuxquestions.org/mepis/. It
supports NTFS as well as FAT32, and lets you freely resize partitions without destorying data. (Of course, it’s always wise to back up first.)
Different ways to mount a volume
As explained earlier in this section, a hard disk can have one partition or
many. Other types of storage devices, such as CD and DVD drives, can only
have a single partition. These partitions, regardless of the nature of the physical device on which they’re located, are all recognized as volumes by the
Disk Management tool and by Windows Explorer.
Mounting is the method by which a volume is made accessible to Windows
Explorer and all your applications. In most cases, each volume has its own
drive letter, such as C: or D:. But a volume can also be accessed through a
folder on any other volume, called a mount point (available on NTFS drives
only). Finally, there can be volumes on your system that aren’t mounted at
all, such as those with filesystems Vista doesn’t support and those you don’t
want to show up in Windows Explorer.
You can change how any volume is mounted, except for the system volume
(the one containing your boot files) and the boot volume (the one on which
Windows is installed).
To change the drive letter of a hard disk volume, right-click the partition
itself in the right side of the Graphical View pane in Disk Management, and
select Change Drive Letter and Paths.
Or, to change the drive letter of a nonfixed disk, such as your DVD drive or
CompactFlash card reader, right-click the disk in the narrow lefthand column, and select Change Drive Letter and Paths.
In either case, you can choose a new drive letter (e.g., H:) by clicking the
Change button, shown in Figure 5-18. Click Remove if you don’t want the
drive to show up in Windows Explorer at all. Or, click Add to choose an
empty folder as a mount point (or pick a drive letter where there is none).
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Figure 5-18. You can change the drive letter for any device, as well as mount the volume
as a folder on another drive, using the Change Drive Letter and Paths dialog
Click OK when you’re done. For another way to hook up drives and folders, see the “Map a Network Drive” sidebar in Chapter 8.
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If you select Mount in the following empty NTFS folder,
click Browse to point to an existing, empty folder on a hard
disk that already has a drive letter. If you were to mount the
volume in the folder C:\backdoor, then the contents of the
newly mounted drive would be accessible in C:\backdoor. A
folder named some folder on the new drive would then
appear as D:\backdoor\some folder. You can view all of the
drives mounted in folders by going to View ➝ Drive Paths.
Chapter 6TroubleshootingTroubleshootingTroubleshootingTrouble- shooting
CHAPTER 6
Troubleshooting
So, what do you find most annoying about Windows Vista?
Is it the name? Maybe the Flip 3D task switcher? Too many sample videos
taking up space on your hard disk? Or perhaps it’s the softly glowing buttons in the interface that exude self-importance?
At the end of the day, though, it’s probably that Windows Explorer keeps
crashing. And that Vista can’t seem to find a driver for your USB card
reader, again. And the User Access Control (UAC) prompt that keeps popping up. And the fact that it seems to take forever to copy a handful of files
from one place to another. And the fact that Vista won’t let you retrieve
individual files from a full system backup (or maybe you haven’t discovered
that last one yet).
If these are the reasons you’re reading this book, then this chapter is for you.
(Actually, the UAC is covered in Chapter 8, but that one drives everyone nuts.)
Troubleshooting is the act of figuring out what’s wrong with a program or a
piece of hardware, and then fixing it. It used to be that we had error messages to help us, but Microsoft got rid of most of them in Windows Vista;
turns out, they weren’t that helpful anyway. Now, when something breaks,
it simply stops working.
Now, if you remember only two pearls of wisdom from this chapter, let
them be these:
• 99% of all computer problems are solved by rebooting. (Restart Windows, turn it off and then back on, press your PC’s reset button,
whatever.)
• Insanity can be defined as repeating the same actions over and over
again, expecting different results. (Or, worse: repeating the same actions
over and over again, knowing that you’ll never get different results.)
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Naturally, a corollary to these principles is that rebooting repeatedly will get
you nowhere. Herein lies the rub: what do you do during that remaining 1%
of the time when rebooting the first time doesn’t help?
Unfortunately, troubleshooting a Windows PC involves more than just
whining about it. One of the first things you need to do to solve a problem is
to find the right words to describe the problem; you’d be surprised at how
many people start with something like “it doesn’t work.” OK, what precisely is it that doesn’t work? Did you get an error message? Is there smoke
billowing out of the vents? Or did your program simply not do what you
expected it to?
Here’s a short checklist of questions to ask yourself to get you—or rather,
your PC—on the road to recovery:
Is this an isolated incident, or does this problem occur every time?
As much as Microsoft will deny it, crashing is a fact of life on a Windows system, even when you’re using Windows Vista (although some
clowns will swear up and down that their systems are “rock-solid”). An
isolated incident is often just that, and, if nothing else, is a good
reminder to save your work often. On the other hand, if a given error
message or crash occurs repeatedly at the same time, in the same place,
or as a result of the same mouse click, you need to isolate the trigger
mechanism if you hope to solve the problem.
Is the problem with a specific application or hardware device, or is it
Windows’ fault?
You can rule out a specific application if the problem occurs in more
than one program. You can rule out devices by unplugging them or disabling their drivers in Device Manager. And if you’re really motivated,
you can rule out your specific Windows installation by installing a second copy of the operating system on a different drive, as described in
Chapter 1.
But don’t forget that software products are a lot like pharmaceuticals:
interactions can cause problems when the products by themselves are
harmless.
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When did the problem start happening?
Sudden changes in your computer’s behavior are almost never spontaneous; if something suddenly stops working, you can bet that there’s a
culprit. If the day the problem surfaced is the same day you installed a
new application, or the day you asked Windows Update to install a new
driver, then you’ve got yourself a prime suspect.
Am I using the latest version?
Software and hardware manufacturers frequently release updates and
fixes, so it’s always a good idea to check their web sites for the latest
versions of all applications and drivers. See “Dealing with Drivers and
Other Tales of Hardware Troubleshooting,” later in this chapter, for
details.
How likely is it that someone else has encountered the same problem I have?
This is often the most useful question to ask yourself, because the odds
are that someone else not only has encountered the same problem (anything from an annoying software quirk to a deafening application
crash), but has already discovered a solution and written about it in
some online forum. For example, there’s a Windows Vista discussion
forum at http://www.annoyances.org for this specific purpose!
Am I asking the right people?
If you’re having trouble connecting to the wireless Internet at the airport, don’t call your plumber. On the other hand, the computer store
won’t be much help with a jammed pressure-balance valve. Again, it
comes down to isolating the source of a problem, and this is one of the
hardest things to do, particularly when the technical support representative on the phone is insisting that your problem is not his problem.
How much is my time worth?
This last tidbit of wisdom comes from years of experience. Some problems require hours and hours of fruitless troubleshooting and needless
headaches. In some cases, it makes more sense to replace the product
that’s giving you trouble than to try to fix it. Keep that in mind when it’s
four o’clock in the morning and Windows refuses to recognize your $15
flash memory card reader.
Thus endeth the Q&A portion of this evening’s programming. Stay tuned
for the feature presentation....
Crashes and Error Messages
Once you start peeking under Windows’ hood, you’ll notice some of the
tools that have been included to help the system run smoothly. Some of
these tools actually work, but it’s important to know which ones to use and
which ones are simply gimmicks.
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Viruses, Malware, and Spyware
Malware, or malicious software, is a class of software designed specifically to
wreak havoc on a computer—your computer. Malware includes such nasty
entities as viruses, Trojan horses, worms, and spyware.
If you’re experiencing frequent crashing, nonsensical error messages, pop-up
advertisements (other than when surfing the Web), or slower-than-normal
performance, the culprit may be one of the following types of malware (as
opposed to a feature authored by Microsoft):
Viruses
A virus is a program or piece of code that “infects” other software by
embedding a copy of itself in one or more executable files. When the
software runs, so does the embedded virus, thus propagating the “infection.” Viruses can replicate themselves, and some (known as polymorphic viruses) can even change their virus signatures each time to avoid
detection by antivirus software.
Unlike worms, defined next, viruses can’t infect other computers without
assistance from people (a.k.a. you), a topic discussed in detail in the next
section. One particular type of virus, a Trojan horse, spreads itself by masquerading as a benign application (as opposed to infecting an otherwise
valid file), such as a screensaver or even, ironically, a virus removal tool.
Spyware and adware
Spyware is a little different than the aforementioned viruses and worms,
in that its purpose is not necessarily to hobble a computer or destroy
data, but rather something much more insidious. Spyware is designed to
install itself transparently on your system, spy on you, and then send the
data it collects back to an Internet server. This is sometimes done to collect information about unsuspecting users, but most often to serve as a
conduit for pop-up advertisements (known as adware).
* The term worm is said to have its roots in J.R.R. Tolkien, who described dragons in Middle Earth
that were powerful enough to lay waste to entire regions. Two such dragons (Scatha and Glaurung)
were known as “the Great Worms.” The Great Worm, a virus written by Robert T. Morris in 1988,
was particularly devastating, mostly because of a bug in its own code. (Source: Jargon File 4.2.0.)
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Worms
A worm* is a special type of virus that can infect a computer without any
help from its user, typically through a network or Internet connection.
Worms can replicate themselves like ordinary viruses, but do not
spread by infecting programs or documents. A classic example is the
W32.Blaster.Worm, which exploited a bug in Windows XP, causing it
to restart repeatedly or simply seize up.
Many of these advertisements are pornographic in nature,
and will make no exceptions for the age or personal preference of those viewing them. The good news is that this type
of attack, whether designed to change your default home
page, display pop-up ads, or glean sensitive information from
your hard disk, is easily stoppable and clearly preventable.
Aside from the ethical implications, spyware can be particularly troublesome because it’s so often very poorly written, and as a result, ends up
causing error messages, performance slowdowns, and seemingly random crashing. Plus, it uses your computer’s CPU cycles and Internet
connection bandwidth to accomplish its goals, leaving fewer resources
available for the applications you actually want to use.
Now, it’s often difficult to tell one type of malicious program from another,
and in some ways, it doesn’t matter. But if you understand how these programs work—how they get into your computer, and what they do once
they’ve taken root—you can eliminate them and keep them from coming back.
How malware spreads
Once they’ve infected a system, viruses and the like can be very difficult to
remove. For that reason, your best defense against them is to prevent them
from infecting your computer in the first place.
The most useful tool you can use to keep malware off your computer is your
cerebral cortex. Just as malware is written to exploit vulnerabilities in computer systems, the distribution of malware exploits the stupidity of users.
Malware is typically spread in the following ways:
Email attachments
One of the most common ways viruses make their way into computers
is through spam. Attachments are embedded in these junk email messages and sent by the millions to every email address in existence, for
unsuspecting recipients to click, open, and execute. But how can people be that dumb, you may ask? Well, consider the filename of a typical
Trojan horse:
kittens playing with yarn.jpg
.scr
Since Windows has its filename extensions hidden by default (see
Chapter 2), this is how the file looks to most Vista users:
kittens playing with yarn.jpg
In other words, most people wouldn’t recognize that this is an .scr
(screensaver) file and not a photo of kittens. (The long space in the filename ensures that it won’t be easy to spot, even if extensions are visible.)
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And since many spam filters and antivirus programs block .exe files,
but not .scr files — which just happen to be renamed .exe files — this
innocuous-looking file is more than likely to spawn a nasty virus on
someone’s computer with nothing more than an innocent double-click.
So, how do you protect yourself from these? First, don’t open email
attachments you weren’t expecting, and manually scan everything else
with an up-to-date virus scanner (discussed later in this section). Next,
employ a good, passive spam filter (see “Stop Spam” in Chapter 7), and
ask your ISP to filter out viruses on the server side.
Where do these email attachments come from, you may ask?
As part of their objective to duplicate and distribute themselves, many viruses hijack your email program and use it to
send infected files to everyone in your address book. In
nearly all cases, these viruses are designed to work with the
email software most people have on their systems, namely
Microsoft Outlook and Windows Mail (formerly Outlook
Express). If you want to significantly hobble your computer’s susceptibility to this type of attack, you’d be wise to
use any other email software, such as Mozilla Thunderbird
(http://www.mozilla.com) or stick with web-based email like
Gmail (http://www.gmail.com) or Windows Live Mail (http://
mail.live.com).
One of the most common types of viruses involves macros, small scripts
(programming code) embedded in documents. By some estimates,
roughly three out of every four viruses is actually a macro written for
Microsoft Word or Excel. These macros are executed automatically
when the documents that contain them are opened, at which point they
attach themselves to the global template so that they can infect every
document you subsequently open and save. Both Word and Excel have
security features that restrict this feature, but these measures are clumsy
and most people disable them so they can work on the rest of their documents. In other words, don’t rely on the virus protection built in to
Microsoft Office to eliminate the threat of these types of viruses.
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Infected files
Viruses don’t just invade your computer and wreak havoc, they replicate themselves and bury copies of themselves in other files. This means
that once your computer has been infected, the virus is likely sitting dormant in any of the applications and even personal documents stored on
your hard disk. This not only means that you may be spreading the
virus each time you email documents to others, but that others may be
unwittingly sharing viruses with you.
Peer-to-peer (P2P) file sharing
Napster started the P2P file-sharing craze years ago, but modern file
sharing goes far beyond the trading of harmless music files. It’s estimated that some 40% of the files available on these P2P networks contain viruses, Trojan horses, and other unwelcome guests, but even these
aren’t necessarily the biggest cause of concern.
To facilitate the exchange of files, these P2P programs open network ports
(Chapter 7) and create gaping holes in your computer’s firewall, any of
which can be exploited by a variety of worms and intruders. And since
people typically leave these programs running all the time (whether they
intend to or not), these security holes are constantly open for business.
But wait...there’s more! If the constant threat of viruses and Trojan horses
isn’t enough, many P2P programs themselves come with a broad assortment of spyware and adware, intentionally installed on your system along
with the applications themselves. Kazaa, one of the most popular filesharing clients, is also the biggest perpetrator of this, and the likely culprit
if your system has become infected with spyware. (Note that other products like Morpheus, BearShare, Imesh, and Limewire do this, too, just in
case you were thinking there was a completely “safe” alternative.)
Web sites
It may sound like the rantings of a conspiracy theorist, but even the act of
visiting some web sites can infect your PC with spyware and adware. Not
that it can happen transparently, but many people just don’t recognize the
red flags even when they’re staring them in the face. Specifically, these are
the “add-ins” employed by some web sites that provide custom cursors,
interactive menus, or other eye candy. While loading a web page, you may
see a message asking if it’s OK to install some ActiveX gadget “necessary”
to view the page (e.g., Comet Cursor); here, the answer is simple: no.
Just as many viruses are written to exploit Microsoft Outlook,
most spyware and adware targets Microsoft Internet Explorer.
By switching to a browser like Firefox, you can eliminate the
threat posed by many of these nasty programs. See “Lock
Down Internet Explorer,” in Chapter 7, for the full story.
Network and Internet connections
Finally, your network connection (both to your LAN and to the Internet)
can serve as a conduit for a worm, the special kind of virus that doesn’t
need your help to infect your system. Obviously, the most effective way to
protect your system is to unplug it from the network, but a slightly more
realistic solution is to use a firewall. Vista comes with a built-in firewall,
although a router provides much better protection. See Chapter 7 for
details on both solutions.
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How to protect and clean your PC
The most popular and typically the most effective way to rid your computer
of malware is to use dedicated antivirus software and antispyware software.
These programs rely on their own internal databases of known viruses,
worms, Trojans, spyware, and adware, and as such, must be updated regularly (daily or weekly) to be able to detect and eliminate the latest threats.
Vista is the first operating system to include an antispyware tool, known as
Windows Defender (found in Control Panel and shown in Figure 6-1). The
best part about it is that, left to its own devices, Windows Defender will regularly scan your system and even keep its spyware definitions up to date.
Troubleshooting
Figure 6-1. Windows Defender is included with Vista to help protect your PC from the
myriad of spyware designed to exploit vulnerabilities in Windows
But Vista still doesn’t come with an antivirus tool, mostly to appease the
companies that make money selling aftermarket antivirus software (which is
ironic, since the best tools are free). Following is a list of the more popular
antivirus products.
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Avast Home Edition (http://www.avast.com)
Freeware, with a slick interface and good feature set.
Avira AntiVir Classic (http://www.free-av.com)
Freeware, with frequent updates, but only average detection rates.
AVG Anti-Virus (http://free.grisoft.com)
Freeware, a popular yet poor-performing antivirus solution.
Kaspersky Antivirus Personal (http://www.kaspersky.com)
Very highly regarded solution with an excellent detection record.
McAfee VirusScan (http://www.mcafee.com)
Trusted and well-established all-around virus scanner with an intuitive
interface and few limitations.
Panda Anti-Virus Titanium & Platinum (http://www.pandasecurity.com)
Lesser-known but capable antivirus software.
Symantec Norton AntiVirus (http://www.symantec.com)
Mediocre, slow antivirus software with a well-known name—but beware
of its expensive subscription plan to keep virus definitions updated.
Antispyware software is a more complex field, and as a result, you’ll have
the best luck using multiple tools in addition to Windows Defender. The top
antispyware products include:
Ad-Aware Personal Edition (http://www.lavasoft.de)
Ad-Aware is one of the oldest antispyware tools around, but its definitions are still updated frequently. The personal edition is free and very
slick, although it’s not usually as effective at removing spyware as Spybot or Spysweeper, both discussed next.
When using Ad-Aware, make sure you click Check for
updates now before running a scan. Also, to turn off the
awful, jarring sound Ad-Aware plays when it has found spyware, click the gear icon to open the Settings window, click
the Tweak button, open the Misc Settings category, and
turn off the Play sound if scan produced a result option.
Spybot - Search & Destroy (http://www.spybot.info)
Not quite as nice to look at as Ad-Aware, Spybot (Figure 6-2) excels at
purging hard-to-remove spyware. And while both Ad-Aware and Spybot remove tracking cookies (see “Surf Anonymously” in Chapter 7)
from Internet Explorer, Spybot supports Firefox as well.
Spy Sweeper (http://www.webroot.com)
This highly regarded antispyware tool, while not free like the first two,
is still a welcome addition to any spyware-fighter’s toolbox, and can
often remove malware that the others miss.
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Figure 6-2. Spybot - Search & Destroy is one of several antispyware tools that can be
used in conjunction with Windows Defender to help keep your PC malware-free
So, armed with proper antivirus and antispyware software, there are four
things you should do to protect your computer from malware:
• Place a router between your computer and your Internet connection, as
described in Chapter 7.
• Scan your system for spyware regularly, at least once or twice a month.
Do it more often if you download and install a lot of software.
• Use your head! See the previous section for ways that malware spreads,
and the next section for some of the things you can do to reduce your
exposure to viruses, spyware, adware, and other malware.
The perils of auto-protect
Antivirus software is a double-edged sword. Sure, viruses can be a genuine
threat, and for many of us, antivirus software is an essential safeguard. But
antivirus software can also be a real pain in the neck.
The most basic, innocuous function of an antivirus program is to scan files
on demand. When you start a virus scanner and tell it to scan a file or a disk
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• Scan your system for viruses regularly, and don’t rely entirely on your
antivirus program’s auto-protect feature (see the next section). Run a
full system scan at least every two weeks.
full of files, you’re performing a useful task. The problem is that most of us
don’t remember or want to take the time to routinely perform scans, so we
rely on the so-called “auto-protect” feature, where the virus scanner runs all
the time. This can cause several problems:
Performance hit
Loading the auto-protect software at Windows startup can increase
boot time; also, because each and every application (and document) you
open must first be scanned, load times can increase. Plus, a virus scanner that’s always running consumes memory and processor cycles, even
though you’re not likely to spend most of your time downloading new,
and potentially hazardous, files for it to scan.
Browser and email monitoring
Some antivirus auto-protect features include web browser and email
plug-ins, which scan all files downloaded and received as attachments,
respectively. In addition to the performance hit, these plug-ins sometimes don’t work properly, inadvertently causing all sorts of problems
with the applications you use to open these files.
Annoying and obtrusive messages
The constant barrage of virus warning messages can be annoying, to say
the least. For instance, if your antivirus software automatically scans
your incoming email, you may be forced to click through a dozen or so
messages warning you of virus-laden attachments, even though your
spam filter will likely delete them before you ever see them. And nearly
every antivirus program makes a big show each time it receives definition updates; while it’s nice to know the software is doing its job, it
would also be nice to have it do it quietly.
False sense of security
Most importantly, having the auto-protect feature installed can give you
a false sense of security (“Sure, I’ll open it—I have antivirus software!”),
reducing the chances that you’ll take the precautions listed elsewhere in
this section and increasing the likelihood that your computer will
become infected. Even if you are diligent about scanning files manually,
no antivirus program is foolproof, and is certainly no substitute for common sense.
Now, if you take the proper precautions, your exposure to viruses will be
minimal, if not nil, and you will have very little need for the auto-protect feature of your antivirus software. Naturally, whether you disable your antivirus
software’s auto-protect feature is up to you, but if you keep the following
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practices in mind, you should be able to effectively eliminate your computer’s susceptibility to viruses.
If you don’t download any documents or applications from the Internet, if
you’re not connected to a local network, if you have a firewalled connection
to the Internet, and the only type of software you install is off-the-shelf commercial products, your odds of getting a virus are pretty much zero.
Viruses can only reside in certain types of files, including application (.exe
and .scr) files, document files made in applications that use macros (such as
Microsoft Word), Windows script files (.vbs), and some types of application
support files (.dll, .vbx, .vxd, etc.). And because ZIP files (described in
Chapter 2) can contain any of the aforementioned files, they’re also susceptible.
Conventional wisdom holds that plain-text email messages,
text files (.txt), image files (.jpg, .gif, .bmp, etc.), video clips
(.mpg, .avi, etc.) and most other types of files are benign in
that they simply are not capable of being virus carriers. However, things aren’t always as they seem. Case in point: the
Bloodhound.Exploit.13 Trojan horse (discovered in 2004)
involved certain JPG files and a flaw in Internet Explorer
(and most other Microsoft products). The bug has since
been fixed, but it’s not likely to be the last.
Actually, it is possible to embed small amounts of binary
data into image files, which means, theoretically, that an
image could contain a virus. However, such data would have
to be manually extracted before it could be executed; a virus
embedded in an image file would never be able to spontaneously infect your system.
If you’re on a network, your PC is only as secure as the least-secure PC on
the network. If it’s a home network, make sure everyone who uses machines
on that network understands the concepts outlined here. If it’s a corporate
network, there’s no accounting for the stupidity of your coworkers, so you
may choose to leave the auto-protect antivirus software in place.
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You’ve heard it before, and here it is again: don’t open email attachments
sent to you from people you don’t know, especially if they are Word documents or .exe files. If someone sends you an attachment and you’re tempted
to open it, scan it manually beforehand, and then refrain from opening it.
Most antivirus software adds a context-menu item to all files, allowing you
to scan any given file by right-clicking on it and selecting Scan (or something similar).
What to Do When Windows Won’t Start
Unfortunately, Windows’ inability to load itself is a common problem, usually occurring without an error message or any obvious way to resolve it.
Sometimes you’ll just get a black screen after the startup logo, or your computer may even restart itself instead of displaying the desktop. Of the many
causes to this problem, many deal with hardware drivers, conflicts, or file
corruption—all of which are discussed elsewhere in this chapter.
But when Windows won’t start, how do you fix the problem? There’s no
Windows Explorer to delete files, no Internet to research solutions, no
Device Manager to check and uncheck boxes, and no Solitaire to while away
the time. You have only this book and the sound of your breath wafting over
your keyboard like an evening breeze over a dead mongoose.
Luckily, Microsoft has provided an out—actually, about a dozen of them.
Gone is the frustratingly limited Recovery Console found in Windows 2000
and XP; in its place are a handful of useful “recovery tools” on the Vista
setup disc, and several alternative ways to get into Windows that are already
on your hard disk (discussed later in this chapter).
Grab your Vista DVD
The best tools are on your Windows Vista setup disc, the location of which
has probably escaped your mind. If you don’t have one, and Vista came preinstalled on your PC, you may have a “recovery partition” as described in
Chapter 5; otherwise, contact your PC manufacturer and request the original Vista DVD (after all, you paid for it when you bought the machine).
Pop the Vista disc in the drive and turn on your computer. (If your PC won’t
boot off the disc, see Chapter 1.) When you see the “Install Now” page,
click the Repair your computer link at the bottom to get to the System
Recovery Options window shown in Figure 6-3.
Here’s how these options work:
Startup Repair
This is the first step you should take when Vista won’t start. This tool
repairs your hard disk’s master boot record (MBR) and partition boot
sector. If Vista still won’t start after using Startup Repair, read on.
System Restore
This reverts your Windows installation to an earlier incarnation, which is
useful if a recent driver installation has prevented Windows from booting.
But beware, depending on the age of the most recent restore point, this
may do nothing, or may go back too far. Use this option only if you don’t
have a more recent backup (discussed next). See “Go Back in Time with
Restore Points and Shadow Copies,” later in this chapter, for details.
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Figure 6-3. These recovery tools, available on your Vista setup disc, allow you to repair
your installation in the event that Windows won’t start
Windows Complete PC Restore
Use this option to wipe your hard disk clean and restore a backup you
made with the Backup and Restore Center that comes with the Business
and Ultimate editions of Windows Vista. (Sorry, Home Basic and Home
Premium users—apparently your data is not that valuable.) See
“Recover Your System After a Crash,” later in this chapter.
Troubleshooting
The fact that the Windows Complete PC Restore feature
wipes your hard disk clean is a strong case for having your
personal data on a separate partition from Windows, as
explained in “Work with Partitions” in Chapter 5.
Windows Memory Diagnostic Tool
This examines your PC’s system memory (RAM) for errors; see “Test for
Bad Memory (RAM),” later in this chapter. Unlike the other tools here,
this one makes no changes to your hard disk, so it’s safe to use at any time.
Command Prompt
Use this tool to open a Command Prompt window, from which you can
copy, delete, or rename files that may be preventing Windows from loading. Also available is the Safe Mode with Command Prompt, discussed
later in this section. See Chapter 9 for details on the Command Prompt,
including an overview of the commands you can type at the prompt.
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Use the F8 menu
It’s a pity that the recovery tools on the Vista disc aren’t available without
the disc itself. If you can’t find the Windows DVD (or CD disc 1), or your
PC manufacturer was too stingy to give you one, there are some lesser tools
you can use that are already on your hard disk. Just after you power up your
PC (and after it displays its own logo or POST screen), but before you see
the Windows logo, press the F8 key on your keyboard to invoke the
Advanced Boot Options menu shown in Figure 6-4.
Figure 6-4. Press F8 just before you see the Windows logo to display this menu, from
which you have access to several tools to help you get into Windows when it won’t load
normally
If you can’t get to the F8 menu, then your PC isn’t even trying to load Windows. At this point, you should use the
Startup Repair option on your Vista setup disc, followed by
the other choices on the System Recovery Options window.
If those don’t work, or if you don’t have the original Vista
disc, then your best bet is to remove your hard disk from
your PC and hook it up to another computer using the special USB tool extolled in “Transfer Windows to Another
Hard Disk” in Chapter 5. There, you should be able to determine the problem, or—worst case scenario—try to recover
whatever data you can, as described in “Recover Your System After a Crash,” later in this chapter.
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From the F8 menu, you’ll have these choices:
Safe Mode
This forces Windows to start up in a hobbled, semi-functional mode,
useful for troubleshooting or removing software or hardware drivers
that otherwise prevent Windows from booting normally. Use the next
option, Safe Mode with Networking, instead of Safe Mode, unless it
turns out that your network drivers are the ones responsible for breaking Windows.
Safe Mode with Networking
This is the same as Safe Mode, except that Windows loads your network drivers. This is vitally important if you want Internet access when
you get into Windows (useful for researching your problem).
Safe Mode with Command Prompt
Instead of loading Windows and your desktop, all you’ll see is a Command Prompt window, sort of like the one you can get to from the System Recovery Options window (Figure 6-3, earlier). See Chapter 9 for
help with the Command Prompt. To fix file errors on your hard disk
from the Command Prompt, see “Check Your Drive for Errors with
Chkdsk,” later in this chapter.
Troubleshooting
The Safe Mode with Command Prompt option is a good
choice if you suspect that a recent driver installation is to
blame for Windows’ inability to start. Once the Command
Prompt appears, type devmgt.msc at the prompt and press
Enter to start Device Manager. Then, find the driver in the
Device Manager window, right-click the entry, and select
Disable. Close Device Manager and restart Windows when
you’re done.
To get out of the Command Prompt cleanly and restart Windows, type exit at the prompt and press Enter. If typing exit
closes the Command Prompt window but leaves Windows
running, press Ctrl-Alt-Del and then click the tiny arrow
next to the red button at the bottom of the screen.
Enable Boot Logging
This starts Windows normally, except that a log of every step is
recorded into the ntbtlog.txt file, located in your \Windows folder. If
Windows won’t start, all you need to do is attempt to start Windows
with the Enable Boot Logging option at least once. Then, reboot your
PC, press F8 again, and choose one of the Safe Mode tools above (preferably, Safe Mode with Networking). When you’re back in Windows,
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read the log with Notepad; the last entry in the log is most likely the
cause of the problem.
Enable low-resolution video (640 × 480)
This starts Windows normally, but in VGA mode (640 × 480 resolution
at 16 colors). This helps you troubleshoot bad video drivers or incorrect
video settings by allowing you to boot Windows with the most compatible (and ugliest) display mode there is.
Last Known Good Configuration (advanced)
This starts Windows with the last set of drivers and Registry settings
known to work. Use this if a recent Registry change or hardware installation has caused a problem that prevents Windows from starting. See
“Go Back in Time with Restore Points and Shadow Copies,” later in this
chapter, for details.
Directory Services Restore Mode
Don’t bother with this unless the PC is a Windows NT domain controller.
Debugging Mode
This option, typically of no use to end-users, sends debug information
to your serial port to be recorded by another computer.
Disable automatic restart on system failure
Unlike the previous eight entries here, this option merely changes a setting so you can determine why Windows won’t start. By default, if Vista
crashes while it’s loading (see “Blue Screen of Death,” later in this chapter), it reboots your PC so fast, you can’t read the error message on that
infamous blue screen. Choose Disable automatic restart on system failure if you want to read the message and then reboot by hand.
Disable Driver Signature Enforcement
By default, the 64-bit edition of Windows Vista won’t allow you to
install any device drivers that haven’t been digitally signed (a bureaucratic requirement to get the Microsoft certification logo on a product’s
packaging). In theory, you should be able to choose Disable Driver Signature Enforcement to allow your PC to install nonsigned drivers, but
in practice, this never works. Instead, boot Windows normally, open a
Command Prompt window (in administrator mode; see Chapter 8), and
type the following:
bcdedit.exe -set loadoptions DDISABLE_INTEGRITY_CHECKS
and then press Enter. Close the Command Prompt and restart Windows for the change to take effect. If that doesn’t help, you may have to
forgo supporting a specific device until the manufacturer makes a
signed, native (64-bit) driver available.
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Repair your computer (not shown in Figure 6-4)
You may see this option if your PC came with Vista preinstalled and
your PC manufacturer was too cheap to include a real Windows installation disc. See “Recover Your System After a Crash,” later in this chapter, for details.
Start Windows Normally
Use this self-explanatory option to continue booting Windows normally, as though you never had invoked the F8 menu.
With these tools (and the referenced sections in this book), you should have
everything you need to get Windows running again. At the point you discover the grim fact that your repair mission has turned into a recovery mission, see “Recover Your System After a Crash,” later in this chapter.
Manage Startup Programs
The Startup folder in the Start menu is where most people go if they want
Windows to start an application automatically when it boots. Just drag a
shortcut to the program into the folder, and Windows will do the rest.
Or, if there’s a program you don’t want Windows to load—either because
it’s causing an error message or because Vista is booting too slowly—just
right-click the shortcut in the Startup folder and select Delete.
Trouble is, there are many ways to configure startup programs, and if you’re
trying to solve a problem or just reduce boot times, you need to look at
them all:
C:\Users\{username}\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Windows\Start
Menu\Programs\Startup
and programs listed therein will load automatically when you first log in
to your user account. Next, the “All Users” Startup folder here:
C:\ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows\Start Menu\Programs\Startup
lists the programs to load automatically when anyone logs into your PC.
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Startup folders
There are actually two of these on your hard disk, but shortcuts in both
places show up in the Startup menu (under All Programs in your Start
menu). If you have a lot of cleanup to do, you’ll find it’s easier to open
Windows Explorer than to repeatedly open the Start menu. First, your
personal Startup folder is located here:
Registry
There are several places in the Registry (see Chapter 3) in which startup
programs are specified. Installers add their programs to these keys for
several reasons: to prevent tinkering, for more flexibility, or—in the case
of viruses, Trojan horses, and spyware—to hide from plain view.
These keys contain startup programs for the current user (er, you):
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\RunOnce
These keys contain startup programs for all users:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\RunOnce
The naming of the keys should be self-explanatory. Programs referenced in either of the Run keys listed previously are run every time Windows starts, and are where you’ll find most of your startup programs.
An entry referenced in one of the RunOnce keys is run only once and then
removed from the key.
If you find yourself returning to the two Run keys frequently, use Registry Editor’s Favorites menu to create
shortcuts to each location, and name them accordingly (e.g.,
HKCU-Run and HKLM-Run).
Services
The Services window (services.msc) lists dozens of programs especially
designed to run in the background in Windows Vista. The advantage
that services have over the other startup methods here is that they
remain active, even when no user is currently logged in. That way, for
example, your web server can continue to serve web pages when the
Welcome/Login screen is displayed.
By default, some services are configured to start automatically with
Windows and others are not, and this distinction is made in the Startup
Type column. Double-click any service and change the Startup type
option to Automatic to have it start with Windows, or Disabled if you
never want it to start automatically. You can even group all the automatic
services together by clicking the Startup Type column to sort the list.
Changing the Startup type for a service won’t load (start) or
unload (stop) the service. Use the Start and Stop buttons on
the toolbar of the Services window, or double-click a service
and click Start or Stop.
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So, you’ve decided to scour your system for superfluous or dangerous
startup programs, and you’ve encountered one you don’t recognize. Before
you pull the plug on a particular entry, follow these steps to find out what
it’s for:
1. First, determine the name of the file involved. If it’s a Registry entry, the
filename (and usually the full path) is shown in the right column in the
Run/RunOnce key. For Startup folder items, right-click the shortcut icon
and select Properties to uncover the program filename. Or, if it’s a service, double-click the service and look at the Path to executable line
under the General tab.
2. Once you have the program filename, open Windows Explorer and navigate to the file’s location. (If the pathname wasn’t included, type the
filename into Explorer’s Search box, and be sure to look beyond the
index (see Chapter 2).
Right-click the program executable, select Properties, and choose the Version tab. The manufacturer name, and sometimes the product name, will
be listed here. If there’s no Version tab, it means the file has no version
information, a symptom typically indicative of a virus or some form of
malware (see “Viruses, Malware, and Spyware,” earlier in this chapter).
3. If the file itself doesn’t explain its own purpose, fire up a web browser
and search Google for the filename. In nearly all cases, you’ll find a web
site that describes what it’s for, and in the case of malware, how to
remove it.
If it’s a shortcut in your Startup folder, move the shortcut to a temporary folder rather than deleting it, which allows for easy retrieval if it
turns out to be necessary.
For entries in your Registry, create a Registry patch (see
Chapter 3) to back up the key, and then simply delete the
offending entry. Now, as a test, click another key in the Registry tree, and then flip back to the Run key where you just
made your change. Is the entry still gone? If not, you may be
dealing with malware that knows how to repair itself, and
you’ll likely have to use one of the tools listed in “Viruses,
Malware, and Spyware,” earlier in this chapter.
5. Restart your system, and look for abnormalities (as well as normalities).
If all is well, you can probably discard the removed entries.
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4. Still stumped? Some malware installers create new, random filenames for
their startup programs specifically so you can’t easily identify them. If you
have a hunch that an entry doesn’t belong, try temporarily relocating it.
If you don’t feel like looking in all these places separately, but you also don’t
feel comfortable ignoring them, open the Performance Information and
Tools page in Control Panel and click the Manage Startup Programs link on
the left to open the Windows Defender Software Explorer. You can also try
a program like Startup Control Panel, available for free from http://www.
mlin.net/StartupCPL.shtml. Among other things, it has a “Recycle Bin” of
sorts that lets you easily recover recently axed Startup programs.
Check Your Drive for Errors with Chkdsk
The Chkdsk utility—chkdsk.exe, pronounced “check disk” for those who
enjoy pronouncing program executable filenames—scans your hard disk for
errors and optionally fixes any it finds. To run Chkdsk, open a Command
Prompt window (cmd.exe), type chkdsk at the prompt, and press Enter.
File errors—one of the problems Chkdsk can detect and fix
—are also capable of preventing Windows from booting. If
Windows won’t start, use the Safe Mode with Command
Prompt startup option discussed in “What to Do When
Windows Won’t Start,” earlier in this chapter.
When you run Chkdsk without any options, you’ll get a report that looks
something like this:
The type of the file system is NTFS.
Volume label is SHOEBOX.
WARNING! F parameter not specified.
Running CHKDSK in read-only mode.
CHKDSK is verifying files (stage 1 of 3)...
156352 file records processed.
File verification completed.
433 large file records processed.
0 bad file records processed.
2 EA records processed.
54 reparse records processed.
CHKDSK is verifying indexes (stage 2 of 3)...
586626 index entries processed.
Index verification completed.
5 unindexed files processed.
CHKDSK is verifying security descriptors (stage 3 of 3)...
156352 security descriptors processed.
Security descriptor verification completed.
18159 data files processed.
CHKDSK is verifying Usn Journal...
36020056 USN bytes processed.
Usn Journal verification completed.
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Windows has checked the file system and found no problems.
105520148
58674344
60396
0
320208
65536
46465200
KB
KB
KB
KB
KB
KB
KB
total disk space.
in 134061 files.
in 18160 indexes.
in bad sectors.
in use by the system.
occupied by the log file.
available on disk.
4096 bytes in each allocation unit.
26380037 total allocation units on disk.
11616300 allocation units available on disk.
You can interrupt Chkdsk at any time by pressing Ctrl-C.
If Chkdsk finds any errors, it’ll say so in its report. However, as suggested by
the WARNING! F parameter message in the report, it won’t fix any problems it
finds unless you specifically instruct it to do so with the /f parameter, like
this:
chkdsk /f
The following terms describe most of the different types of problems that
Chkdsk might report:
Lost clusters
These are pieces of data that are no longer associated with any existing
files. They just need to be cleaned up.
You may have one or more bad sectors if you see gibberish
when you view the contents of a directory (with the dir command), or if Windows crashes or freezes every time you
attempt to access a certain file. Of course, this may also be
the work of the “Green Ribbon of Death,” covered later in
this chapter.
Cross-linked files
If a single piece of data has been claimed by two or more files, those files
are said to be cross-linked.
Invalid file dates or times
Chkdsk also scans for file dates and times that it considers “invalid,”
such as missing dates or those before January 1, 1980.
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Bad sectors
Bad sectors are actually physical flaws on the disk surface. Use the /r
option, explained shortly, to attempt to recover data stored on bad sectors. Note that recovery of such data is not guaranteed (unless you have
a backup somewhere).
By default, Chkdsk will only scan the current drive (shown
in the prompt— C:> for drive C:). To scan a different drive,
include the drive letter as one of the command-line options,
like this: chkdsk d: /f.
The other important options available to Chkdsk are the following:
/r The /r parameter is essentially the same as /f, except that it also scans
for—and recovers data from—bad sectors, as described earlier. This
just takes longer, and probably isn’t necessary unless /f is insufficient.
/b When Chkdsk finds a bad sector (as the result of an /r scan), it effec-
tively “fences off” the region so Windows can never store data there
again. Use the /b parameter to recheck those regions in the hopes that
they can be used once again. For obvious reasons, this is usually not a
good idea, and is pretty much a big waste of time.
/x Include this option to force Windows to dismount the volume before
scanning the drive, a useful step for drives with shared folders (see
Chapter 8). If you don’t include /x, and the drive is in use, Chkdsk usually has to schedule a scan during the next boot. The /x parameter
implies the /f option.
There are also the /i and /c options, which are used only to skip certain
checks in order to complete the scan more quickly; there’s usually no reason to use them.
To run Chkdsk from Windows Explorer, right-click any drive, select Properties, choose the Tools tab, and click Check Now. Here, the Automatically fix
file system errors option corresponds to the /f parameter, and the Scan for
and attempt recovery of bad sectors option corresponds to the /r parameter.
Unfortunately, this way, you don’t get the detailed report. And when Windows won’t start, the Command Prompt interface is basically your only choice.
Dirty drives and automatic scans
When a volume is marked “dirty,” Windows scans it with Chkdsk automatically during the boot process. A drive can become dirty if it’s in use when
Windows crashes, or Chkdsk schedules a scan when you attempt to check a
disk that is in use. A drive not considered dirty is marked “clean” (no surprise there).
You can use the Fsutil (Fsutil.exe) utility to manage dirty drives. Open a
Command Prompt window and type fsutil (without any arguments) to display a list of commands that can be used with the tool. As you might have
expected, the dirty command is the one that’s most relevant here. Here’s
how it works:
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To see whether drive G: is currently marked as dirty, type:
fsutil dirty query g:
To mark drive H: as dirty, so it will be scanned by Chkdsk the next time
Windows starts, type:
fsutil dirty set h:
Fsutil has been found to be unreliable when used on FAT or
FAT32 drives, so you may wish to use it only on more modern NTFS disks. (See “Choose the Right Filesystem” in
Chapter 5.)
Another utility, Chkntfs, is used to choose whether or not Windows runs
Chkdsk automatically at Windows startup, regardless of the so-called cleanliness of the drive. (It is not used to check NTFS drives, as its name implies,
however.) Here’s how it works:
To display a dirty/clean report about any drive (say, drive G:), type:
chkntfs g:
To exclude drive H: from being checked when Windows starts (which is not
the default), type:
chkntfs /x h:
To include (un-exclude) drive H: in the drives to be checked when Windows
starts, type:
chkntfs /c h:
To force Windows to check drive H: the next time Windows starts, type:
To include all drives on your system, thereby restoring Vista’s defaults, type:
chkntfs /d
Finally, when Windows detects a dirty drive, it starts a timed countdown
(10 seconds by default), allowing you to skip Chkdsk by pressing a key. To
change the duration of this countdown to, say, five seconds, type:
chkntfs /t:5
The Registry location of the timeout setting is stored in the
AutoChkTimeOut value in the HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\
CurrentControlSet\Control\Session Manager key.
You’ll have to restart Windows for any of these changes to take effect.
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chkntfs /c h:
fsutil dirty set h:
What to Do When a Program Crashes
Error messages are passé. When a program crashes, Windows doesn’t necessarily tell you that it has crashed. Rather, the program simply “stops
responding.” This means that you can’t click any of the controls in its interface, save your open document, nor (most importantly) close and reopen it
easily. Sure, Windows usually lets you move it around the screen, and sometimes even click the Close button, but that’s about it. But these are also
symptoms of an application that’s simply busy, caught up in the last task
you asked it to perform.
Either way, triggered by your first attempt to use a crashed or busy program, Windows turns the whole window a pale version of itself while trying
to communicate with it. If you want to know whether a program has
reached this state without triggering it with a click, just try moving the
mouse over the edges of the window; if the mouse cursor doesn’t change to
the familiar “resize” arrows (and given that it’s a resizable window), the program has probably stopped responding.
So, how do you tell the difference between a crashed program and a busy
one? Well, Vista can’t even do that reliably, instead showing you a window
that looks like the one in Figure 6-5 when you try to close it. The solution is
to be patient and use your best instincts.
Figure 6-5. When you see this message, it means that Windows doesn’t know whether the
program you’re trying to use has crashed, or is simply busy
But patience only gets you so far. After waiting an intolerable length of time,
say, three to four seconds, one has to wonder whether the program will ever
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start responding. If you’re through waiting, you can go ahead and elect to
close the program, a strategy that works some of the time.
If an application window is visible, it’s easy enough to click
the small × button on the application title bar to close it.
But if it’s minimized, or if the main window isn’t responding
at all, right-click the program’s button on the taskbar and
select Close.
If closing doesn’t help, or if, after closing a window, you can’t open another
one, then it’s time to pay a visit to Task Manager, shown in Figure 6-6.
There are three ways to start Task Manager:
Taskbar
Right-click an empty area of the taskbar and select Task Manager.
Keyboard
Press the Shift-Ctrl-Esc keys together.
Three-finger salute
If the taskbar and keyboard methods don’t work, then Windows itself is
crashed or busy. In this case, press Ctrl-Alt-Del to blank the screen and
show a special administrative menu, at which point you can click Task
Manager to launch it.
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Figure 6-6. Choose the Processes tab in Task Manager to list all the programs running on
your PC, a necessary step if one of them has crashed and you need to close it (the hard way)
Although the Applications tab is inviting and easy to understand, it’s not
too helpful for this purpose. Choose the Processes tab, turn on the Show
processes from all users option at the bottom (if it’s there), and then locate
the crashed program in the list.
There’s a funky bug in Vista’s Task Manager, but fortunately,
it’s one that’s easy to fix. If your Task Manager appears with
no title bar, menu, or tabs, just double-click the thin gray border around the main list to bring them back. If that doesn’t
help, or if your mouse is unavailable, open the Registry Editor,
navigate to HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows
NT\CurrentVersion\TaskManager and delete the TaskManager
key.
To find the program to close, sort the list. You can sort the list alphabetically by filename (e.g., explorer.exe for Windows Explorer) by clicking the
Image Name column header. Or, sort by application title by clicking the
Description header.
But for most hung applications—also known as “frozen” or “locked up”—
it’ll be most entertaining to sort by exactly how busy the program is. Click
the CPU column header twice (so its little arrow is pointing down) to sort by
processor usage (a percentage from 0 to 99), and the crashed program will
usually leap to the top of the list. For instance, if Windows Explorer has
crashed—unfortunately, such a common occurrence in Vista that a new
term was invented for it, explained in “Green Ribbon of Death,” later in this
chapter—its CPU usage will usually be in the high 80s!
Just highlight the program in the list and click End Process. Only after you
do this will you be able to reopen the application.
Vista comes with another tool you can use to examine the
running processes: just open Windows Defender in Control
Panel, click the Tools button at the top of the window, and
then click the Software Explorer link. From the Category
list, choose Currently Running Programs, and then select
any task in the list to see its details on the right. It’s not as
powerful as the Task Manager (it won’t let you close
Microsoft applications, for instance), but it does offer more
details in the righthand pane, such as the executable file size,
version, and other details.
See “Shut Down Windows Quickly,” in Chapter 5, to configure how long
Windows waits for a busy application to respond before it considers it
crashed.
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Programs commonly running in the background
Windows is basically just a collection of components, and at any given time,
some of those components may be loaded into memory and listed as running processes in Task Manager. In fact, you’ll probably see more programs
running than you expected, especially after you turn on Task Manager’s
Show processes from all users option.
If you see a program you don’t recognize, don’t panic; it’s not necessarily
malware, but then again, it’s not necessary legitimate. See Table 6-1 for a list
of those items commonly found on most Windows Vista systems.
Table 6-1. Processes you should expect to find running on your system
Description
csrss.exe
Called the Client Server Runtime Process, csrss.exe is an essential Windows component, as
it handles the user-mode portion of the Win32 subsystem. It is also a common target for
viruses, so if this process appears to be consuming a lot of CPU cycles on your system, you
should update and run your antivirus software.
explorer.exe
This is simply Windows Explorer, which is responsible for your desktop and Start menu. If
this program crashes or is closed, Windows will usually start it again automatically. If you
see more than one instance of explorer.exe, it means that each folder window is being
launched as a separate process (see Chapter 2 for details).
lsass.exe
This is the Local Security Authority subsystem, responsible for authenticating users on
your system.
rundll32.exe
This program, the purpose of which is to launch a function in a DLL as though it were a
separate program, is used for about a million different things in Windows.
services.exe
This is the Windows NT Service Control Manager, and works similarly to svchost.exe,
described shortly. The difference is that services.exe runs services that are processes, and
svchost.exe runs services that are DLLs.
smss.exe
Called the Windows NT Session Manager, smss.exe is an essential Windows component.
Among other things, it runs programs listed in the HKEY_ LOCAL_MACHINE\
SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Session Manager key in the Registry.
spoolsv.exe
This handles printing and print spooling (queuing).
svchost.exe
This is the application responsible for launching most services (listed in services.msc). See
the upcoming “What Is Svchost?” sidebar for details. See also services.exe.
System
This is the System process, an essential Windows component.
System Idle Process
The “idle” process is a 16k loop, used to occupy all CPU cycles not consumed by other running processes. The higher the number in the CPU column (99% being the maximum), the
less your processor is being used by the currently running programs.
winlogon.exe
This process manages security-related user interactions, such as logon and logoff
requests, locking or unlocking the machine, changing the password, and the remote Registry service.
wmiprvse.exe
This is responsible for WMI (Windows Management Instrumentation) support in Windows
Vista, also known as WBEM. Like csrss.exe, above, wmiprvse.exe is a common target for
viruses, so if this process appears to be consuming a lot of CPU cycles on your system, you
should update and run your antivirus software.
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Process
Naturally, you shouldn’t interfere with the components
Windows requires to operate while you’re looking for errant
programs or programs you can get along without. And just
because something isn’t listed here doesn’t mean it isn’t
required by your system, so use caution when ending a process with which you’re unfamiliar.
What Is Svchost?
Svchost.exe and services.exe are responsible for launching the processes associated with the behind-the-scenes programs controlled by the Services window
(services.msc).
A single instance of svchost.exe may be responsible for a single service or several. You should never interfere with any instances of svchost.exe or services.exe
you might see listed in Task Manager. Instead, use the Services window to
start or stop a service or choose whether or not a service is started automatically when Windows starts.
If you’re using Windows Vista Professional edition, you can use the TaskList
utility (tasklist.exe) to see which services are handled by any given instance of
svchost.exe. Just open a Command Prompt window (cmd.exe), and type:
tasklist /svc
Then, match up the numbers in the PID column of TaskList’s output with
those in the PID column of Task Manager’s Processes tab.
See “Manage Startup Programs,” earlier in this chapter, for tips on researching and identifying processes and programs you don’t recognize.
Stop notifying Microsoft
There’s something comforting about Windows inviting you to share details
about your last application crash with Microsoft engineers—people who,
presumably, can use that information to help solve the problem. But if a
warm, fuzzy feeling isn’t as high of a priority as getting back to work after a
crash, you may choose to turn off the error reporting feature.
In Control Panel, open the Problem Reports and Solutions page. On the left
side, click the Change settings link, and then on the next page, click the
Advanced settings link. Finally, on the “Advanced settings for problem
reporting” page (Figure 6-7), select Off, and then click OK.
But turning off problem reporting doesn’t mean you necessarily have to
sever all connections with Microsoft’s automated support system, only that
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Figure 6-7. You can choose whether or not to notify Microsoft whenever a program
crashes
you don’t have to do it the instant a program crashes. There’s still a way to
get some satisfaction.
See “Blue Screen of Death,” later in this chapter, for another (rather nasty)
type of crash that doesn’t necessary follow any of the same rules of the
crashes discussed here.
What to Do When a Program Won’t Start
Ever double-click an icon on your desktop, only to see the mouse cursor
momentarily turn into the little spinning circle before it reverts to the arrow
pointer, with no newly opened application in sight? This is typically what
happens when a program won’t start, and this is not necessarily Windows’
fault.
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Back in the Problem Reports and Solutions page, click the See problems to
check link to open a history of unreported application crashes (Figure 6-8).
Here, place a checkmark next to any crash on which you’d like to follow up
(or use the Select all option), and then click Check for solutions.
Figure 6-8. Vista shows you a history of recent crashes, and gives you the opportunity to
share that information with Microsoft at a time that’s convenient for you
One of these four things is usually responsible for preventing a program (or
software installer) from loading in Windows Vista:
User Account Control (UAC)
As explained in Chapter 8, Vista’s UAC feature is designed to prevent
malicious or poorly written applications from harming your PC. Unfortunately, a program not specifically written for Vista won’t be aware of
UAC, and as a result, may close when UAC prevents it from doing
something like writing to its own folder in Program Files. The solution is
to run the program in administrator mode; see “Control User Account
Control,” in Chapter 8, for details.
Not written for Vista
Some programs—particularly those that interact with the operating system or rely on features only available in certain versions of Windows—
won’t load if your version of Windows isn’t on their preapproved list.
(This also applies to setup programs.) To get around this, right-click any
.exe file (or a shortcut to any .exe file), select Properties, and choose the
Compatibility tab. Turn on the Run this program in compatibility
mode for option, and from the list immediately underneath, choose a
Windows version you know to be supported by your software. Click
OK and then try running the program again. Note that just because the
program now thinks it’s running under, say, Windows XP with Service
Pack 2, doesn’t mean the program will actually function correctly in
Windows Vista. But much of the time, a little spoofing is all it takes.
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Missing file or setting
Most applications require a laundry list of different support files—not
to mention a few dozen Registry settings to be in place—for them to
function. If the program worked at one point, but no longer does, it
might need nothing more than to be reinstalled. (This is particularly
true of programs that were installed on a previous version of Windows,
and were simply left intact when you upgraded to Vista.)
It’s a piece of junk
OK, maybe this is too harsh, but don’t discount the possibility that
there’s simply a bug in the software that is preventing it from running.
Check the software publisher’s web site for an update, patch, or other
workaround.
Software is an ever-evolving landscape, so don’t be surprised if you have to
eventually retire an old favorite because it just won’t run anymore. Of
course, your favorite is likely someone else’s, too, so it’s worth a quick web
search to see whether anyone else has come up with a trick to get your program running on Vista.
Green Ribbon of Death
Don’t you just love it when something is so notorious for a particular shortcoming that a new term is invented to describe it? It happened with the Blue
Screen of Death, described in the next section. It happened with the Spinning
Beach Ball of Death in Mac OS X. And it happened with the odd-number
curse, referring to every other Star Trek film.
Figure 6-9. The Green Ribbon of Death, the harbinger of a Windows Explorer window
that has crashed
The green ribbon is basically a progress bar, a screen element Microsoft has
sadly gone to great pains to excise from Windows Vista. But this particular
progress bar is the harbinger of death for the active Windows Explorer window, which, unfortunately, is not uncommon in Vista.
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Now it has happened with Vista’s own Green Ribbon of Death, shown in
Figure 6-9.
The green progress bar inches across Windows Explorer’s address bar as
Windows attempts to assemble a list of files to show for the current folder.
Most of the time, it’s only visible for a few seconds, if it shows up at all. The
problem occurs when it doesn’t go away, at which point Windows Explorer
stops cooperating when you try to view another folder or cancel the progress
by clicking the little red × button next to the address bar.
What’s worse, if you try to open another Windows Explorer window, that
one is likely to malfunction, too, even if you closed the first one! The solution, temporary as it may be, is to close the seized explorer.exe process in
Task Manager, as described in “What to Do When a Program Crashes,” earlier in this chapter. But if you want to stop the Green Ribbon of Death from
visiting you again, you’ll have to take matters into your own hands.
There are basically four things that cause this problem:
Broken thumbnails
This is the most common cause of this problem, and also the easiest to
fix. Each time you view a folder containing photos (JPG, TIF files) or
movies (AVI, MPG, WMV files), Windows Explorer opens each one to
extract and build thumbnail previews for the file icons. If even one file
in the folder is corrupted, or if one of the files makes use of a corrupted
codec on your system, Windows Explorer crashes.
To fix this problem, you need to do two things. First, figure out which
file is crashing Explorer. Of course, since you can’t view the folder in
Explorer without it crashing, you’ll have to turn off the thumbnails feature first. On the System page in Control Panel, click Advanced system
settings, and then in the Performance box, click Settings. Turn off the
Show thumbnails instead of icons option, and click OK.
Next, open the folder and then test each of your media files. The video
that won’t play or the photo that won’t display is the likely culprit. Now
it’s just a matter of figuring out whether the file is corrupt, or the codec
needs to be fixed, as described in the beginning of Chapter 4.
Slow network access
When you open the Network folder to view other PCs on your LAN,
Windows Explorer sometimes takes a long time to show them all. See
Chapters 7 and 8, specifically “Stop Sharing Scheduled Tasks,” in
Chapter 8, for help troubleshooting network connections and shared
folders.
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Searching when files are changing
If you’re searching a folder, especially if you’re using the Include nonindexed option as described in Chapter 2, and another program is writing
files to that folder, the search results may repeatedly appear and disappear while you stare at the green progress bar. To solve this problem,
close the Search window (or select a real folder in the tree) while programs are saving files to your hard disk.
Copying files
Vista is hopelessly slow at copying files in certain situations, two in fact.
(More on this in Chapter 2.)
First, Vista’s UAC feature forces Windows Explorer to evaluate the
security impact of each file you copy, and this has far-reaching consequences, particularly when you’re copying files over a network. See
“Control User Account Control,” in Chapter 8, for more information.
And second, Vista notoriously has trouble copying files to and from
USB devices. So, if you copy a folder full of images from your USB card
reader directly to your external USB hard disk, or move document files
from a USB memory key to a shared network folder, Windows Explorer
may crash. There’s no easy fix to this one, but you can work around it
by copying files to your desktop first.
Blue Screen of Death
The Blue Screen of Death (BSoD) is aptly named. It’s blue, it fills the screen,
and it means death for whatever you were working on before it appeared.
Microsoft refers to BSoD errors as “Stop Messages,” a euphemism for the
types of crashes that are serious enough to bring down the entire system.
A single error is no cause for concern. Only if a BSoD error
happens a few times, or repeatedly, do you need to pursue
any of the solutions listed here.
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As explained above, you need to use Task Manager to close a crashed Windows Explorer window. But if you want to be able to close a crashed window and leave any other Explorer windows (and the desktop) intact, you’ll
need to make a change in Control Panel. Open Folder Options and choose
the View tab. In the Advanced settings list, turn on the Launch folder windows in a separate process option, and then click OK. From now on, when
you see the Green Ribbon of Death, it’ll only mean death for one of your
Windows Explorer windows, not all of them.
By default, Windows restarts your computer as soon as the BSoD appears,
leaving almost no time to read the error message before it vanishes. To
change this, open the System page in Control Panel and click the Advanced
system settings link on the left side. In the Startup and Recovery box, click
Settings, turn off the Automatically restart option, and click OK.
Or, if Windows won’t start, and you need to read the BSoD error message,
use the Disable automatic restart on system failure option, as described in
“What to Do When Windows Won’t Start,” earlier in this chapter.
Alphabetical list of BSoD errors
There are a whole bunch of possible BSoD messages; probably more than a
hundred. However, only about 20 happen frequently enough that they
might imply that an actual problem exists. More than likely, you’ve seen at
least one of the following stop messages on your own system:
Attempted Write To Readonly Memory (stop code 0X000000BE)
A faulty driver or service is typically responsible for this error, as is outdated firmware. If the name of a file or service is specified, try uninstalling the software (or rolling back the driver if it’s an upgrade).
Bad Pool Caller (stop code 0X000000C2)
Causes and remedies are similar to “Attempted Write To Readonly
Memory.” Additionally, this error might also be the result of a defective
hardware device.
If you encounter this message while upgrading to Windows Vista (see
Chapter 1), it may mean that one or more devices in your system are not
compatible with Vista. Try disconnecting unnecessary devices, or at
least look for updated drivers and firmware. Also, disable any antivirus
software you may have running.
Data Bus Error (stop code 0X0000002E)
This can be caused by defective memory (see “Test for Bad Memory
(RAM),” later in this chapter), including system RAM, the Level 2
cache, or even the memory on your video card. Other causes of this
error include serious hard disk corruption, buggy hardware drivers, or
physical damage to the motherboard.
Driver IRQL Not Less Or Equal (stop code 0X000000D1)
Drivers programmed to access improper hardware addresses typically
cause this error. Causes and remedies are similar to “Attempted Write
To Readonly Memory (stop code 0X000000BE),” earlier in this list.
Driver Power State Failure (stop code 0X0000009F)
This error is caused by an incompatibility between your computer’s power
management and one or more installed drivers or services, typically when
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the computer enters the Hibernate state (discussed at length in
Chapter 5). If the name of a file or service is specified, try uninstalling
the software (or rolling back the driver if it’s an upgrade). Or, try disabling Windows’ support for power management.
Driver Unloaded Without Cancelling Pending Operations (stop code
0X000000CE)
Causes and remedies are similar to “Attempted Write To Readonly
Memory (stop code 0X000000BE),” earlier in this section.
Driver Used Excessive PTEs (stop code 0X000000D8)
Causes and remedies are similar to “No More System PTEs (stop code
0X0000003F),” later in this section.
Hardware Interrupt Storm (stop code 0X000000F2)
This error occurs when a hardware device (such as a USB or SCSI controller) fails to release an IRQ, a condition typically caused by a buggy
driver or firmware. This error can also appear if two devices are incorrectly assigned the same IRQ (discussed later in this chapter).
Inaccessible Boot Device (stop code 0X0000007B)
You may see this error during Windows startup if Windows cannot read
data from the system or boot partitions (described in Chapter 1). Faulty
disk controller drivers are often to blame, but this problem can also be
caused by hard disk errors, or even a corrupted boot.ini file (also
described in Chapter 1).
If all is well with your drivers and your drive, and you haven’t been
messing with the boot.ini file (such as while installing multiple operating systems), check your system BIOS settings (described in
Appendix A).
Kernel Data Inpage Error (stop code 0X0000007A)
This error implies a problem with virtual memory (discussed in
Chapter 5), most often in the case that Windows wasn’t able to read
data from—or write data to—the swap file. Possible causes include bad
sectors, a virus, improper SCSI termination, bad memory, or physical
damage to the motherboard.
Kernel Stack Inpage Error (stop code 0X00000077)
Causes and remedies are similar to the previous entry, “Kernel Data
Inpage Error (stop code 0X0000007A).”
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If you encounter this message while upgrading to Windows Vista (see
Chapter 1), it may mean that one or more devices in your system are not
compatible with Vista. Try disconnecting unnecessary devices, or at
least look for updated drivers and firmware. Also, disable any antivirus
software you may have running.
Kmode Exception Not Handled (stop code 0X0000001E)
A faulty driver or service is sometimes responsible for this error, as are
memory and IRQ conflicts, and faulty firmware. If the name of a file or
service is specified, try uninstalling the software (or rolling back the
driver if it’s an upgrade).
If the Win32k.sys file is mentioned in the message, the cause may be
third-party remote control software (discussed in Chapter 7).
This error can also be caused if you run out of disk space while installing an application or if you run out of memory while using a buggy
application with a memory leak.
Mismatched Hal (stop code 0X00000079)
The currently installed Hardware Abstraction Layer (HAL) must match
the type of computer on which Windows Vista is installed, or you may see
this error. For example, if you use a HAL intended for a dual-processor
system on a single-processor motherboard, Windows may not start. The
best way to correct problems with the HAL is to reinstall Windows Vista.
This error can also be caused by out-of-date Ntoskrnl.exe or Hal.dll files,
so if you’ve recently attempted to repair these files on your system, look
for backups of the original versions.
No More System PTEs (stop code 0X0000003F)
Page Table Entries (PTEs) are used to map RAM as it is divided into
page frames by the Virtual Memory Manager (VMM). This error usually means that Windows has run out of PTEs.
Aside from the usual assortment of faulty drivers and services that can
cause all sorts of problems, this error can also occur if you’re using multiple monitors.
If you find that you’re experiencing this error often, you can increase
Windows’ allocation of PTEs with this procedure:
1. Open the Registry Editor (discussed in Chapter 3).
2. Then
expand the branches to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\
CurrentControlSet\Control\Session Manager\Memory Management.
3. Double-click the PagedPoolSize value, enter 0 for its value data, and
click OK.
4. Next, double-click the SystemPages value. If you’re using multiple
monitors, enter a value of 36000 here. Otherwise, enter 40000 if you
have 128 MB of system RAM or less, or 110000 if you have more
than 128 MB of RAM.
5. Click OK and then close the Registry Editor when you’re done. The
change will take effect when you restart Windows.
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NTFS File System (stop code 0X00000024)
This is caused by an problem reported by Ntfs.sys, the driver responsible for reading and writing NTFS volumes (see Chapter 5). If you’re
using the FAT32 filesystem, you may see a similar message (with stop
code 0X00000023).
Causes include a faulty IDE or SCSI controller, improper SCSI termination, an overly aggressive virus scanner, or errors on the disk (try testing
it with Chkdsk).
To investigate further, open the Event Viewer (eventvwr.msc), and look
for error messages related to SCSI or FASTFAT (in the System category), or Autochk (in the Application category).
Page Fault In Nonpaged Area (stop code 0X00000050)
Causes and remedies are similar to “Attempted Write To Readonly
Memory (stop code 0X000000BE),” earlier in this list.
Status Image Checksum Mismatch (stop code 0Xc0000221)
Possible causes for this error include a damaged swap file (see the discussion of virtual memory in Chapter 5), or a corrupted driver. See
“Attempted Write To Readonly Memory (stop code 0X000000BE),”
earlier in this section, for additional causes and remedies.
Thread Stuck In Device Driver (stop code 0X000000EA)
Also known as the infamous “infinite loop” problem, this nasty bug has
about a hundred different causes. What’s actually happening is that your
video driver has essentially entered an infinite loop because your video
adapter has locked up. Microsoft has posted a solution on its web site that
involves disabling certain aspects of video acceleration, but I’ve never
encountered an instance where this worked. Instead, try the following:
• Try upgrading your computer’s power supply. A power supply of
poor quality or insufficient wattage will be unable to provide adequate power to all your computer’s components, and may result in
a “brown out” of sorts in your system. Note that newer, more
power-hungry video adapters are more susceptible to this problem.
See “Don’t Overlook the Power Supply,” later in this chapter.
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Status System Process Terminated (stop code 0Xc000021A)
This error indicates a problem with either Winlogon.exe or the Client
Server Runtime Subsystem (CSRSS). It can also be caused if a user with
administrator privileges has modified the permissions (see Chapter 8) of
certain system files such that Windows cannot read them. To fix the
problem, you’ll have to install a second copy of Windows Vista (see “Set
Up a Dual-Boot System” in Chapter 1), and then repair the file permissions from there.
• Make sure you have the latest driver for your video card. If you
already have the latest driver, try “rolling back” to an older driver to
see whether that solves the problem.
• Make sure you have the latest driver for your sound card, if applicable. Also, make sure your sound card is not in a slot immediately
adjacent to your video card, lest the resulting interference or heat
disrupt the operation of either card.
• Make sure your video card is properly seated in its AGP or PCI slot.
If it’s a PCI card, try moving it to a different slot.
• Inspect your video card and motherboard for physical damage.
• Try messing with some of your system’s BIOS settings, especially
those concerning your AGP slot or video subsystem, as described in
Appendix A. For example, if your AGP slot is set to 2x mode, and
your video adapter only supports 1x AGP mode, then you’ll want to
change the setting accordingly.
• Make sure your computer—and your video card—are adequately
cooled. Overheating can cause your video card’s chipset to lock up.
• Check with the manufacturer of your motherboard for newer drivers for your motherboard chipset.
For example, the “infinite loop” problem is common among motherboards with VIA chipsets and nVidia-based video cards. Visit the
VIA web site (http://www.viaarena.com/?PageID=64) for updated
drivers and additional solutions.
• Try replacing your system’s driver for the Processor-to-AGP Controller. Open Device Manager (devmgmt.msc), expand the System
devices branch, and double-click the entry corresponding to your
Processor-to-AGP Controller. Choose the Driver tab, and click
Update Driver to choose a new driver. Unless you can get a newer
driver from the manufacturer of your motherboard chipset, try
installing the generic “PCI standard PCI-to-PCI bridge” driver
shown in the Hardware Update Wizard.
• If your motherboard has an on-board Ethernet adapter, try disabling the PXE Resume/Remote Wake Up option in your system
BIOS (see Appendix A).
• If you’re using a dual-processor motherboard, Windows Vista is probably loading a HAL (Hardware Abstraction Layer) for an MPS (Multiple Processor System). Such HALs support the I/O APIC (Advanced
Programmable Interrupt Controller), a method of accommodating
more than 15 IRQs in a single system. Unfortunately, APIC can cause
problems with AGP-based video cards. Try changing your HAL to
“Standard PC” to see whether that solves the problem.
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Unexpected Kernel Mode Trap (stop code 0X0000007F)
Typical causes of this error include defective memory, physical damage
to the motherboard, and excessive processor heat due to overclocking
(running the CPU faster than its specified clock speed).
Unmountable Boot Volume (stop code 0X000000ED)
This means that Windows was unable to mount the boot volume, which,
if you have more than one drive, is the drive containing Windows (see
Chapter 1 for more information on the boot and system volumes). This
can be caused by using the wrong cable with a high-throughput IDE
controller (more than 33 MB/second); try an 80-pin cable instead of the
standard 40-pin cable. See also “Inaccessible Boot Device (stop code
0X0000007B),” earlier in this list.
Dealing with Drivers and Other Tales of Hardware
Troubleshooting
A driver is the software that allows Windows and all of your applications to
work with a hardware device, such as a printer or video card. That way, for
example, your word processor doesn’t need to be preprogrammed with the
details of all available printers (as in the early days of PCs). Instead, Windows manages a central database of drivers, silently directing the communication among all your applications and whatever drivers are required to
complete the task at hand.
The other thing to be aware of is that some drivers may just not be the correct ones for your system. For example, when installing Windows, the setup
routine may have incorrectly detected your video card or monitor and hence
installed the wrong driver (or even a generic driver). A common symptom for
this is if Windows does not allow you to display as many colors or use as
high a resolution as the card supports. Make sure that Device Manager
(devmgmt.msc) lists the actual devices, by name, that you have installed in
your system.
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Problems arise when a driver is buggy or outdated, or one of the files that
comprise a driver is missing or corrupted. Outdated drivers designed either
for a previous version of Windows or a previous version of the device can
create problems. Additionally, manufacturers must continually update their
drivers to fix incompatibilities and bugs that surface after the product is
released. It’s usually a good idea to make sure you have the latest drivers
installed in your system when troubleshooting a problem. Furthermore,
newer drivers sometimes offer improved performance, added features and
settings, better stability and reliability, and better compatibility with other
software and drivers installed in your system.
Device drivers worth investigating include those for your video card, monitor,
motherboard chipset, network adapter, and any USB devices you may have. If
you’re not sure of the exact manufacturer or model number of a device
installed inside your computer, take off the cover of your computer and look,
or refer to the invoice or documentation that came with your system.
How to Add Hardware
Windows Vista comes with a huge assortment of drivers for hardware available at the time of its release, but as time passes, more third-party devices
are released, requiring drivers of their own. The first rule is to never use the
disc that comes with a device, but rather go straight to the manufacturer’s
web site for the latest version.
That said, hardware installation in Vista is pretty straightforward...that is,
when it works. When it doesn’t, Vista is no help.
Now, you’ve probably discovered the Add Hardware wizard in Control
Panel, and while it seems inviting enough, it’s a trap!
Any modern hardware that’s working properly will identify itself to Windows as soon as you connect it—or in some cases, as soon as you boot
Windows—at which point Windows will do the rest. Never try to do it the
other way around; it will always end in tears.
When to use the Add Hardware wizard
There is one reason—and one reason only—to use the Add Hardware wizard, and that is to find out whether Windows comes with a driver for a specific piece of hardware before you try to install it (or even before you
purchase it). Here’s how this works:
1. Double-click the Add Hardware icon in Control Panel, and click Next
on the first page.
2. On the next page, choose the second option, Install the hardware that I
manually select from a list (Advanced), and click Next.
3. Chose the category of the device, or just select Show All Devices if
you’re feeling lazy, and click Next.
4. The next page is essentially a list of every hardware device driver
included with Windows Vista. Choose a manufacturer from the list on
the left, and then the specific model number from the list on the right.
If the driver you seek is not listed and you don’t see a driver for a similar device
that might be usable, you’ll have to obtain a driver from the manufacturer.
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How to update a driver
In nearly all cases, Device Manager (devmgmt.msc, also in Control Panel)
will show an entry for the device you’re installing, whether it’s working or
not. If the device isn’t working, it either pops open automatically with a
teensy, yellow exclamation point over its icon, or shows up in the Unknown
Devices branch, as shown in Figure 6-10.
Troubleshooting
Figure 6-10. Here are two signs that Windows isn’t loading the driver for your device
These are often symptoms of a driver problem, and this can be fixed. (Of
course, it may also be an errant BIOS setting, as described in Appendix A, or
a problem with the hardware itself...but usually, it’s the driver.)
To see what driver a device is currently using, double-click the device in
Device Manager and choose the Driver tab. An easy (but certainly not
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foolproof) way to tell whether you’re using the driver that came with Windows Vista is to look at the driver date—it should be June 21, 2006 (for the
initial release, that is)—and its version number should be 6.0.6000.xxxxx. If
not, it probably came from another source, such as from a driver disk, from
the Web, from Windows Update, or from a previous installation of Windows. Drivers with newer dates are usually—but not always—more recent,
but the date alone is not a reliable indicator.
Click the Driver Details button to view the files in use by the
driver. Sometimes a driver won’t load merely because one of
the files listed here is missing or broken—a problem updating the driver, discussed next, doesn’t always fix. Instead,
uninstall and reinstall the device, as described later in this
chapter.
To install a new driver for a device, right-click the device in Device Manager
and select Update Driver Software. When prompted, point to the folder
containing the latest and greatest driver you’ve just obtained from the manufacturer’s web site and, if necessary, extracted from the ZIP file.
Or, to start over, right-click the device and select Uninstall. Then, from the
Action menu, select Scan for hardware changes.
When troubleshooting a device, don’t forget to update the firmware, too;
see the “Firmware: Software for Your Hardware” sidebar, next.
Firmware: Software for Your Hardware
User-upgradable firmware is a feature found in many modern devices. Firmware is software stored in the device itself, used to control most hardware
functions. Although it’s not possible to, say, increase a hard disk’s capacity
by upgrading its firmware, it is possible to improve performance and fix bugs
in devices like wireless routers, DVD recorders, motherboards, and even digital cameras.
The beauty of firmware is that if you purchase a peripheral and the manufacturer subsequently improves the product, you can usually update the firmware to upgrade the product.
When a device isn’t working or a driver won’t install, go to the hardware
manufacturer’s web site and look for a firmware update. Since there’s no
standard method of upgrading firmware, be sure to get the firmware upgrade
utility from the web site as well.
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What to do when Windows can’t find a driver
There’s a bug in Windows Vista that makes it seem like it has amnesia. You
plug in a device—even one you’ve used before—and after quite a long time
of thinking about it, Vista complains that it can’t find the driver. This is particularly disconcerting when it’s a common device like a hard disk or a USB
card reader. Fortunately, it’s fairly easy to fix.
The problem is that Vista maintains a cache of its driver locations, and for
reasons that aren’t entirely clear, Vista won’t abandon the cache when it
becomes corrupted. Such is the case here.
To clear the driver cache, open Windows Explorer, and navigate to the C:\
Windows\inf folder. If you see a file named INFCACHE.1, delete it immediately. If Windows won’t let you delete the file, see “Delete In-Use Files” in
Chapter 2.
When you’ve excised the file, try uninstalling and then reinstalling the misbehaving device to reinstall the driver. For real this time.
Stop Plug and Play from detecting devices
One of the problems with Plug and Play (PnP) is its tendency to detect and
load drivers for devices you don’t want to use. Although there is no way to
prevent Windows’ PnP feature from detecting and installing drivers for some
devices, you can disable most devices that may be causing conflicts.
Uninstall drivers for devices you no longer use
By default, Device Manager doesn’t show devices that aren’t connected to
your computer, even if the drivers for those devices are installed and loaded.
But why would you want to do this?
When you disconnect or remove a device from your system without first
right-clicking its entry in Device Manager and selecting Uninstall, its driver
will remain installed on your system. The only way to remove it is to either
reattach the device, or show hidden devices.
Now, in Device Manager, you can select Show hidden devices from the
View menu, but all this will add to the listing are non-PnP devices. To have
Device Manager show all hidden devices, follow these steps:
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To disable a device and prevent Windows from detecting it again, right-click
it in Device Manager (devmgmt.msc), and select Disable. A red × then
appears over the device’s icon to signify that it has been disabled. You can
later re-enable the device by right-clicking and selecting Enable.
1. Open the System page in Control Panel, and then click the Advanced
system settings link on the left.
2. Click the Environment Variables button.
3. In the lower System variables section, click New.
4. Type devmgr_show_nonpresent_devices for the Variable name, and enter
1 for the Variable value. Click OK when you’re done, and click OK to
close the System Properties window.
5. If Device Manager is open, close and reopen it.
6. In Device Manager, select Show hidden devices from the View menu.
Hidden devices (sometimes called ghosted devices) now appear in Device
Manager with grayed-out icons. Other than the fact that they represent nonpresent hardware, these hidden entries should behave normally, in that you
can uninstall them, change their properties, or update their drivers.
Interpret Device Manager Errors
From time to time, Device Manager will report a problem with one of your
devices by marking it with a yellow exclamation mark (!) or a red × . Doubleclick the device name, and you’ll likely see one of the following errors:
This device is not configured correctly (Code 1). This is a driver problem;
click Update Driver to install a new driver.
Windows could not load the driver for this device... (Code 2). Again, try
installing a new driver. If that doesn’t work, contact the manufacturer of
your motherboard for a BIOS update.
The driver for this device may be bad, or your system may be running low on
memory or other resources (Code 3). Try removing the device (right-click
and select Uninstall), restarting Windows, and then reinstalling the driver.
This device is not working properly because one of its drivers may be bad,
or your registry may be bad (Code 4). Of course, try updating the drivers.
(Laughably, Microsoft suggests running Scanregw.exe, a program
designed for Windows Me and not included in Windows Vista, to fix
this error.) If a new driver doesn’t fix the problem, try the solution for
Code 3, just discussed.
The driver for this device requested a resource that Windows does not know
how to handle (Code 5). Remove the device (right-click and select Uninstall) and then run the Add New Hardware wizard from Control Panel.
Another device is using the resources this device needs (Code 6). You’ll see
this error if you’ve installed a device that doesn’t support PnP.
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The drivers for this device need to be reinstalled (Code 7). Click
Driver to reinstall the drivers. Duh.
Update
This device is not working properly because Windows cannot load . . .
(Code 8). This may indicate a missing or damaged .inf file, located in the
\Windows\INF folder, which may make it difficult to reinstall the driver
for this device. If the Reinstall Device button doesn’t work (or isn’t
there), and installing drivers provided by the manufacturer fails, you
may have to run Windows setup again.
This device is not working properly because the BIOS in your computer is
reporting the resources for the device incorrectly (Code 9). This indicates a
problem with your motherboard’s support for ACPI power management (discussed in Chapter 5). Contact the manufacturer of your motherboard for a BIOS update. Next, try removing the device (right-click
and select Uninstall) and then restarting Windows.
This device is either not present, not working properly, or does not have all
the drivers installed (Code 10). If the device is a PCI or ISA card inserted in
your computer, make sure it’s firmly seated in its slot. Otherwise, make
sure it’s plugged in and powered up. If it’s an external device, try turning it off and then on again. Then, of course, try removing the drivers
(right-click and select Uninstall) and then run the Add New Hardware
wizard from Control Panel.
Windows stopped responding while attempting to start this device, and therefore will never attempt to start this device again (Code 11). Windows
may
disable devices that prevent it from loading. To re-enable this device,
right-click the device name and select Uninstall, and then restart
Windows.
This device is either not present, not working properly, or does not have all
the drivers installed (Code 13). See the solution for error code 10.
This device cannot work properly until you restart your computer (Code
14). Do I need to tell you what to do here?
This device is causing a resource conflict (Code 15). See the solution for
error code 10.
Windows could not identify all the resources this device uses
(Code 16). Right-click the device, select Properties, and then choose the
Resources tab. You may have to fill in some information provided by
your hardware documentation. See also the solution for error code 10.
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This device cannot find any free {type} resources to use (Code 12). See the
solution for error code 6.
The driver information file {name} is telling this child device to use a resource
that the parent device does not have or recognize (Code 17). You’ll need to
obtain and install newer drivers for this device.
The drivers for this device need to be reinstalled (Code 18). See the solution for error code 7.
Your registry may be bad (Code 19). This extremely helpful message will
appear if there is any corrupt data in your Registry pertaining to this
device. Note that if you restart Windows, it may revert to an earlier
copy of your Registry, which you may nor may not want to happen. See
Chapter 3 for help with backing up your Registry.
Windows could not load one of the drivers for this device
(Code 20). The driver you’re using is likely designed for an earlier version of
Windows; contact the manufacturer of the device for a driver written for
Windows Vista.
Windows is removing this device (Code 21). This temporary message will
appear immediately after you’ve attempted to uninstall a device. Close
the Properties window, wait a minute or two, and then try again. If it
doesn’t go away, try restarting Windows.
This device is disabled (Code 22, version 1). This means you’ve manually
disabled the device by right-clicking and selecting Disable. Click Enable
Device to re-enable the device. If you can’t enable the device, try removing it (right-click and select Uninstall) and then restarting Windows.
This device is not started (Code 22, version 2). Some devices can be
stopped, either manually or via their drivers. Click Start Device to reenable the device. If this persists, look for updated drivers, and see
whether the device has any power management features you can disable.
This display adapter is functioning correctly (Code 23). Despite the fact
that the message states the device is functioning correctly, there’s obviously a problem. This typically occurs in systems with two display
adapters (video cards), wherein one doesn’t fully support being installed
in a system with two display adapters. Try updating the drivers for both
cards, and look for an updated BIOS for either card.
This device is either not present, not working properly, or does not have all
the drivers installed (Code 24). See the solution for error code 10.
Windows is in the process of setting up this device (Code 25 and Code
26). You’ll see this if Windows is waiting until the next time it starts to
complete the installation of the drivers for this device. Restart Windows
to use the device. Note that you may have to restart twice. If that
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doesn’t help, remove the device (right-click and select Uninstall), restart
Windows one more time, and then try again.
Windows can’t specify the resources for this device (Code 27). See the solution for error code 16.
The drivers for this device are not installed (Code 28). Click Reinstall Driver
to install the drivers currently on your system, or obtain new drivers from
the manufacturer of the device.
This device is disabled because the BIOS for the device did not give it any
resources (Code 29). This message appears for devices on your motherboard—such as on-board hard disk controllers, network adapters, or
video adapters—that have been disabled in your computer’s BIOS
setup. See Appendix A for more information. (Note that this error may
also appear for the device’s firmware if it’s not on your motherboard; in
this case, refer to the hardware documentation.)
This device is using an Interrupt Request (IRQ) resource that is in use by
another device and cannot be shared (Code 30). See the solution for error
code 10.
This device is not working properly because {device} is not working properly
(Code 31). This means that the device is dependent on another device. For
instance, this message may appear for a joystick (game) port that is
physically installed on a sound card that’s having problems. To fix this
error, troubleshoot the hardware on which this device is dependent.
This device isn’t responding to its driver (Code 33). This may indicate a
problem with the hardware, or simply a bad driver. Start by removing
the device (right-click and select Uninstall), restarting Windows, and
then reinstalling the drivers. If that doesn’t help, you may have a dead
device on your hands.
Currently, this hardware device is not connected to the computer (Code
45). This message will appear for any hidden or ghosted device, shown
when you select View ➝ Show Hidden Devices in Device Manager. This
means the driver is installed, but the hardware has been physically disconnected or removed.
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Windows cannot install the drivers for this device because it cannot access
the drive or network location that has the setup files on it (Code 32). First,
restart your computer. If that doesn’t fix the problem, copy said drivers
directly to your hard disk, and try installing them again.
Go Back in Time with Restore Points and Shadow Copies
The System Restore service runs invisibly in the background, routinely backing up drivers, important system files, and certain Registry settings so that at
some point, you can roll back some or all of your computer’s configuration
to an earlier time. Plus, if you’re using the Business, Ultimate, or Enterprise
edition of Vista, you can extend this feature to include your personal documents, forming what are called shadow copies.
Windows maintains your PC’s restore points somewhat like
the Recycle Bin; old data is deleted invisibly in the background to make room for new restore points. For this reason, never rely solely on restore points to provide backups of
your documents.
There are several different ways to access restore points, each with its own
purpose and scope:
Roll Back Driver
In Device Manager (devmgmt.msc), expand a category, right-click a
device, and select Properties. Choose the Driver tab, and then click Roll
Back Driver to replace the current driver with an earlier version. If the
Roll Back Driver button is grayed out, then either you’ve loaded no earlier version of this driver, or the System Restore feature isn’t operational
(discussed later in this section). What’s nice about this feature is that the
scope of the change is crystal clear; when you click Roll Back Driver,
only the driver files and settings for the current device are affected.
System Restore
To open the System Restore wizard, open the Start menu, type rstrui
and press Enter. Click Next on the first page to show a list of the recent
restore points, and then select an entry and click Next to revert your
PC’s system files and configuration to an earlier state. (If you don’t see
any restore points, read on to see how to enable this feature.)
It’s best to think of this feature as neither an uninstall tool nor a time
machine, but rather something in between. Windows makes a restore
point when you install hardware drivers, when you install software
(most of the time), and occasionally at regular intervals. (You can also
create restore points manually in the System Protection window,
described later in this section.) But it’s never made clear what exactly
changes when you restore a restore point, making this a potentially dangerous tool. The good news is that you can return to the System Restore
wizard and undo your last change should something go wrong (assuming you can boot Windows thereafter).
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If all you’re trying to do is uninstall software, you should do
so through the Programs and Features page in Control Panel.
Likewise, to uninstall a hardware driver, open Device Manager (devmgmt.msc), right-click the device, and select Uninstall. With these features, at least the scope of your change
will be easily predictable.
Last Known Good Configuration
If a recent driver or software installation has prevented Windows from
loading, press F8 just after your PC powers up (see “What to Do When
Windows Won’t Start,” earlier in this chapter), and from the Advanced
Boot Options menu that appears, select Last Known Good Configuration (advanced).
If you’re lucky, the effect is more or less the same as choosing a recent
restore point in the System Restore wizard, allowing you to subsequently
start Windows. But in practice, this feature often has no effect, either
because the scope of the change isn’t great enough to fix whatever problem you’re having, or because Vista wasn’t set up to create restore
points in the first place (more on that shortly).
Previous Versions
Right-click a document you’ve been working on recently, select Properties, and choose the Previous Versions tab. What you see in the File
versions list here depends on several factors.
Next, if you have the Business, Ultimate, or Enterprise edition of Vista,
and the file is on a drive protected by System Restore, you should see at
least one entry marked Shadow copy in the Location column.
The Previous Versions feature relies on administrative (hidden) shares of your drives; if you’ve disabled them as
described in “Turn Off Administrative Shares,” in Chapter 8,
the File Versions list won’t appear. Furthermore, Windows
will never save previous versions of encrypted files (also covered in Chapter 8).
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First, if you’ve used the Back Up Files wizard described in “Back Up
Your Entire System,” later in this chapter, and that backup included the
file you right-clicked, you should see at least one entry marked Backup
in the Location column. (Thus the usefulness of this feature relies on
the scheduled backup system that comes with every edition of Vista
except Home Basic.)
To roll back a file to an earlier version, select the backup or shadow
copy you want, and click Restore. Better yet, click Copy (available for
shadow copies only) and restore the old version without overwriting the
new one. If you want to preserve the new one when restoring a backup,
you’ll either need to make a copy of the file before you click Restore, or
you’ll need to restore the backed-up file manually (explained later in
this chapter).
The biggest problem with the System Restore and Previous Versions features is that they often don’t work. If they’re not properly set up, the restore
points on which they rely don’t get made.
To fully enable restore points, start by opening the System Protection window. Open the Start menu, type SystemPropertiesProtection, and press
Enter. (Or, open the System page in Control Panel, click the Advanced system settings link on the left, and choose the System Protection tab.) Here,
place a checkbox next to drive C: and any other drive for which you want
to create restore points, and then click Apply. Unless those checkmarks
were already present, take this opportunity to save a restore point by clicking Create.
Next, open the Services window (services.msc), and find the Volume
Shadow Copy entry in the list. If it doesn’t say Started in the Status column, double-click the entry, and from the Startup type list, select Automatic. Click Start to get the service running, and then click OK. Do the
same for the Microsoft Software Shadow Copy Provider service as well.
Lastly, check your PC for utilities that may not be fully compatible with
Vista’s restore points. For instance, some Registry “cleaners,” like TuneUp
Utilities and CCleaner, have been known to interfere with restore points
(among other things). And Diskeeper 2007 (defragmenter software) and earlier versions were known to erase shadow copy data (Diskeeper 2008 fixes
this problem). If you’re having trouble getting shadow copies to work, try
disabling any “fix-it” utilities on your PC until you track down the culprit.
Choose how space is allocated for restore points
Restore points can consume as much as 15% of your hard disk’s total capacity; on a 320 GB drive, that means up to 48 GB can be sucked up by previous versions of your files, hardware drivers, and other detritus.
To find out how much space restore points are currently taking up, open a
Command Prompt window in administrator mode (see Chapter 8), type this
command:
vssadmin list shadowstorage
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and press Enter to produce a report that looks like this:
vssadmin 1.1 - Volume Shadow Copy Service administrative command-line tool
(C) Copyright 2001-2005 Microsoft Corp.
Shadow Copy Storage association
For volume: (C:)\\?\Volume{3b5ab54e-c86b-11cb-a2d6-306f6f6e7963}\
Shadow Copy Storage volume: (C:)\\?\Volume{3b5ab54e-c86b-11cb-a2d6306f6f6e7963}\
Used Shadow Copy Storage space: 11.706 GB
Allocated Shadow Copy Storage space: 12.286 GB
Maximum Shadow Copy Storage space: 13.83 GB
Here, restore points and shadow copies consume about 12 GB. The files
themselves are stored in the \System Volume Information folder, which is
hidden in Windows Explorer unless you turn off the Hide protected operating system files option covered in Chapter 2. (Regardless of the setting,
Windows will never let you view the files therein directly.)
Whether the amount of space restore points consume on your hard disk is
too much or not enough is up to you, but either way, it’s easy enough to
change. At the Command Prompt, type:
vssadmin resize shadowstorage /for=C: /on=C: /maxsize=5GB
(Replace C: with the drive you want to adjust, and 5GB with the actual
amount of space you wish to allocate.) If you want to release the limit for
shadow copy storage, omit the maxsize parameter, like this:
vssadmin resize shadowstorage /for=C: /on=C:
vssadmin add shadowstorage /for=C: /on=D:
to have the shadow data for drive C: stored on drive D:. (If C: is your primary Windows drive, putting your shadow data on D: should improve performance.) To rescind this order, delete the shadow storage “association”
with this command:
vssadmin delete shadowstorage /for=C: /on=D:
You can also delete shadow copy data without changing the associations:
vssadmin delete shadows /for=C: /all
Or, if you have a lot of drives and you want to clear the shadow data for all
of them at once, use this WSH script (see Chapter 9):
Set oWMI=GetObject("winmgmts:{impersonationLevel=impersonate}!\\.\root\
cimv2")
Set cVolumes = oWMI.ExecQuery("Select * From Win32_ShadowCopy")
For Each oVolume in cVolumes
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Now, you may have noticed that you need to indicate the drive letter twice.
This permits a nifty little hack: it turns out you can allocate space on one
drive to hold the shadow data from another drive. For instance, type:
oVolume.Delete
Next
See “Quick, On-the-Fly Backups,” later in this chapter, for a quick and dirty
alternative to shadow copies.
Test for Bad Memory (RAM)
Bad memory can manifest itself in anything from frequent error messages
and crashes to your system simply not starting. Errors in your computer’s
memory (RAM) aren’t always consistent, either; they can be intermittent
and can get worse over time.
Problems due to using the wrong kind of memory are not uncommon; to
find out which type of memory you should use, consult the documentation
that accompanies your computer or motherboard. If you have no such literature, check the web site of the computer or motherboard manufacturer and
find out for sure before you just jam something in there. Odds are, your
friend’s old memory modules not only won’t work in your system, but
they’re probably responsible for that burning smell, too.
The first thing you should do is pull out each memory module and make
sure there isn’t any dust or other obstruction between the pins and your
motherboard (use a dry tissue or lens-cleaning paper; don’t use any liquids
or solvents). Look for broken or bent sockets, metal filings or other obstructions, and, of course, any smoke or burn marks. Make sure all your modules are seated properly; they should snap into place and should be level and
firm (don’t break them testing their firmness, of course).
If all that is in order, there are three ways to determine whether your RAM is
actually faulty. The first way is to rely on your PC to do it for you; see
Appendix A for the BIOS setting that disables “quick start,” which is necessary to perform a full memory test each time you boot your PC.
The second is to use the Windows Memory Diagnostic Tool, mentioned in
“What to Do When Windows Won’t Start,” earlier in this chapter.
The third method of testing for bad memory is to go to your local computer
store and just buy more. It may only be necessary to buy a single additional
module, because most likely only one module in your system is actually
faulty (make sure you get the right kind). Next, systematically replace each
module in your computer with the one you’ve just acquired, and test the
system by turning it on. If the problem seems to be resolved, you’ve most
likely found the culprit—throw it out immediately. If the system still
crashes, try replacing the next module with the new one, and repeat the process. If you replace all the memory in your system and the problem persists,
there may be more than one faulty memory module, or the problem may lie
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elsewhere, such as a bad CPU or motherboard (or you may even find that
you’re not using the correct memory in the first place).
You can, of course, also take this opportunity to add more memory to your
system (possibly replacing all your existing modules). Adding memory is one
of the best ways to improve overall system performance; see the “How to
Buy Memory” sidebar, next, for more information.
How to Buy Memory
There are no two ways about it: the more memory, the better (at least up to a
point). Adding more memory to a computer will almost always result in better performance, and will help reduce crashes as well. Windows loads drivers,
applications, and documents into memory until it’s full; once there’s no more
memory available, Windows starts pulling large chunks of information out of
memory and storing them on your hard disk to make room for the applications that need memory more urgently. Because your hard disk is substantially slower than memory, this “swapping” noticeably slows down your
system. The more memory you have, the less frequently Windows will use
your hard disk in this way, and the faster your system will be. (See “Optimize
Virtual Memory and Cache Settings,” in Chapter 5, for more information on
this mechanism.)
The nice thing about memory is that it is a cheap and easy way to improve
performance. When Windows 3.x was first released, 32 MB of RAM cost
around a thousand dollars. The same quantity of memory (and a faster variety) available at the release of Windows Vista costs less than a ticket to the
movies.
Troubleshooting
The type of memory you should get depends solely on what your motherboard
demands—refer to the documentation that came with your motherboard or
computer system for details. There are many different brands of memory, and
some are simply known for better reliability and stability. Some motherboards require more expensive varieties (and some even demand certain
brands), so do your research before you buy.
That simply leaves one thing to think about: quantity. In short, get as much
memory as you can afford. Like everything else, though, there is a point of
diminishing returns. 1 GB (1,024 MB) is probably the lowest amount you
should tolerate on a Windows Vista system.
Lastly, memory comes in individual modules, which are inserted into slots on
your motherboard. The higher the capacity of each module, the fewer you’ll
need—the fewer modules you use, the more slots you’ll leave open for a
future upgrade. Sometimes, however, lower-capacity modules can be a better
deal (costing fewer dollars per megabyte).
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Don’t Overlook the Power Supply
Every time I encounter a problem that seems to have no reasonable explanation (on a desktop PC, that is), the culprit has been the power supply. I’m
beginning to think it’s a conspiracy.
Say, all of a sudden, one of your storage devices (hard disk, tape drive, etc.)
starts malfunctioning, either sporadically or completely. You try removing
and reinstalling the drivers (if any), you replace all the cables, and you take
out all the other devices. You may even completely replace the device with a
brand-new one—and it still doesn’t work. Odds are your power supply
needs to be replaced.
Your computer’s power supply runs all of your internal devices, as well as
some of your external ones (i.e., the keyboard, the mouse, and most USB
devices). If your power supply isn’t able to provide adequate power to all
your hardware, one or more of those devices will suffer.
The power supplies found in most computers are extremely cheap, a fact
that ends up being the cause of most power supply problems. This means
that it doesn’t make too much sense to replace one cheap unit with another
cheap unit, even if the replacement has a higher wattage rating.
Power supplies are rated by the amount of power they can provide (in
watts); most computers come with 200–300W supplies, but many power
users end up needing 350–400W. The problem with power ratings, however, is that most of those cheap power supplies don’t hold up under the
load. A cheap 400W unit may drop under 300W when you start connecting
devices, but better supplies can supply more than enough power for even
the most demanding systems, and will continue to provide reliable operations for years to come. A well-made power supply will also be heavy and
have multiple fans, as well as being a bit more expensive than the $20 landfill fodder lining most store shelves.
Possible exceptions are portable computers, which may not have userreplaceable power supplies. However, the need for increased power is
generally only applicable to a desktop system that can accommodate several additional internal devices, so the matter is pretty much moot.
Fix USB Power Management Issues
Power management is a common cause of USB problems; if Windows is able
to shut down your USB controller to save power, it sometimes won’t be able
to power it back up again, which will prevent some USB devices (especially
scanners) from working.
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To prevent Windows from “managing” power to your USB controller or
devices, follow these steps:
1. Open Device Manager (devmgmt.msc).
2. Expand the Universal Serial Bus controllers branch.
3. Double-click the USB Root Hub device, and choose the Power Management tab.
4. Turn off the Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power
option, and click OK when you’re done.
See “Start Windows Instantly (Almost),” in Chapter 5, for other power management issues.
Fix Printer Problems
A lot of people are having trouble printing in Vista, but nearly all their problems can be narrowed down to two areas: cables and drivers.
If you’re experiencing poor printing speed, errors, or garbled output, eliminate any USB hubs you might be using, and plug your printer directly into
your PC. If you’re out of USB ports, consider connecting your printer
directly to your network; see “Use a Print Server Without Software” in
Chapter 8.
Otherwise, many common printer problems involve incorrect paper: use
laser paper for laser printers, and inkjet paper for inkjet printers—avoid the
“multipurpose” junk. Also, the ink cartridges in inkjet printers are usually
cheaply made and therefore are one of the first things to fail; simply installing a new ink cartridge will fix many printing problems. Better yet, discard
your disposable inkjet printer and replace it with a nice, fast, color laser
printer.
Preventive Maintenance and Data Recovery
Face it: some sort of data loss is inevitable. Whether it’s a single lost file or a
dead hard disk—whether it’s tomorrow or 12 years from now—it will happen. On that happy note, there is plenty you can do about it.
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As for drivers, the problem that plagues many printers is that the drivers
provided by the printer manufacturer try to do too much, and as a result,
bog down your system (and your printing) with extraneous programs and
dialog boxes. If Windows Vista supports your printer out of the box, consider abandoning the fancy drivers that came with your printer in favor of
the plain-vanilla ones Microsoft provides.
First and foremost, there’s no better method of disaster recovery than having a good backup copy of all your data. Any stolen or damaged hardware is
easily replaced, but the data stored on your hard disk is not. Unfortunately,
hindsight is 20/20, and if you didn’t back up, there’s not much you can do
about it after the fact; even if your computer equipment is insured with
Lloyds of London, once your data is gone, it’s gone. Thus, a little preventative maintenance is in order.
Patch Windows with Windows Update
If software manufacturers waited until their products were completely bugfree before releasing them, then we’d all still be using typewriters.
Windows Vista has a fairly automated update system, wherein patches to
the operating system that Microsoft considers important are made available
on its web site, and, by default, automatically downloaded and installed on
your PC.
Just open Windows Update in Control Panel, and click the Check for
updates link on the left to compile a list of the updates you haven’t yet
installed. This is a fairly straightforward procedure, but largely unnecessary
because Windows does it for you. Or is it necessary after all?
Right out of the box, Vista asks you how you’d like to handle updates.
Microsoft recommends the Install updates automatically option, and even
goes so far as to alert you through Security Center (see Chapter 7) if you’ve
selected any other option (or none at all). But if you go this route, you’re setting yourself up to have your PC indiscriminately hijacked by Microsoft
whenever it needs to install an update. That means annoying pop-up
reminders to restart Windows while you’re trying to get your work done, or
worse: a long delay when you need to shut down in a hurry.
Of course, the other end of the spectrum is Never check for updates, which
some Windows users swear by. Sure, you never get the frequent bug fixes
for Internet Explorer, but that’s not such a big deal if you’re a Firefox user.
But the Download updates but let me choose whether to install them option
is the best of both worlds. This way, you can pick and choose your updates,
and more importantly, install them only when it’s convenient for you.
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The hardware drivers delivered along with the other Windows updates are a mixed bag, at best. Sometimes the driver
install fails, and other times, it succeeds and then breaks the
device. Update a driver only when you’re already using a
Microsoft driver (see “How to Add Hardware,” earlier in this
chapter), and to be safe, only if the device isn’t working. Fortunately, drivers installed through Windows Update can be
“rolled back,” but who wants to roll back drivers when you
don’t have to?
If, for some reason, you need to uninstall an update, you can do so sometimes. In Control Panel, open Programs and Features, and then click the
View installed updates link on the left. Highlight any update in the list and
click Uninstall to get rid of it.
If you’re using Microsoft Office or another high-profile Microsoft product,
you can update those products along with Windows. To do this, open Windows Update, click the Change settings link, and turn on the Use Microsoft
Update option.
Quick, On-the-Fly Backups
In its simplest form, a backup is simply a copy of your data. Now, a full system
backup, as described in the next topic, is obviously valuable, but often too
involved of a procedure to practice frequently enough to be entirely effective.
While you might perform a full backup once a week or once a month, you can
do a quick backup of your most important files several times a day. No special
software or hardware is required, and, best of all, it takes only a few seconds.
Solution 1: Simple copy
The next time you’ve put a few hours into a document, open the folder in
Explorer, and make a duplicate of the file by dragging it to another part of
the same folder with the right mouse button and selecting Copy Here.
Then, if you screw up a file you’re working on, if it gets accidentally deleted,
or if it gets corrupted by a system crash, you’ll have a fresh backup right in
the same folder.
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The following two solutions are remarkably simple, but the idea is sound,
and if you make a habit of making these quick, on-the-fly backups, it will
save you hours of work.
Solution 2: Simple ZIP
At the end of the day (or even several times a day), just right-click the folder
of a project on which you’ve been working, select Send To, and then select
Compressed (zipped) Folder. A new .zip file containing compressed versions of all of its contents will appear next to the folder in a few seconds.
If you then need to retrieve a file from the backed-up folder, just doubleclick the new .zip file.
If you’ve disabled Windows Vista’s built-in support for ZIP
files, and have instead installed a third-party utility, such as
WinZip (http://www.winzip.com), the procedure may be
slightly different. In the case of WinZip, all you’d have to do
is right-click the folder and select Add to foldername.zip.
See “Zip It Up,” in Chapter 2, for the scoop on this ubiquitous format.
Back Up Your Entire System
There are more ways to back up your data than to store it in the first place.
The sole purpose of a backup is to have a duplicate of every single piece of
data on your hard disk that can be easily retrieved in the event of a catastrophe (or even just an accidental deletion). Imagine if your computer were stolen and you had to restore a backup to a brand-new computer. Could you
do it? If the answer is no, you’re not backed up.
You need to be able to complete a backup easily and often, to store the
backup in a safe place (away from the computer) and to retrieve all your
data at any time without incident. If it’s too difficult or time-consuming,
odds are you won’t do it—so make it easy for yourself.
A bare-minimum backup could be little more than a single CD or USB memory key with your last three or four important documents on it. It’s better
than nothing, and it does protect your most recent work, but what about
your email, your web browser bookmarks, your digital photos, and the
thousands of documents you’ve written over the past six years?
I know what you’re thinking, because I’ve heard it a thousand times: nothing on my computer is really that important, so it’s really not worth the time to
back up. OK, assume that’s true—how long would it take you to reinstall
Windows and all your applications, install all your drivers, reconfigure all
your hardware, and customize all your toolbars? If you have a full backup of
your system, the answer is not only “not long,” but “no problemo” as well.
Ideally, you should be able to back up your entire hard disk on a single piece
of media. We won’t even entertain the idea of CDs (you’d need 57 of them
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to back up a full 40 GB hard disk), nor DVDs (you’d need nine standard or
five dual-layer discs). ZIP drives are a joke, and USB memory keys are too
slow and too small. Tapes are so far beyond passé, most Vista-compatible
backup software doesn’t even support tape drives.
The only choice for backing up a modern PC is a removable hard disk.
Shortly after the initial release of Vista, a 500 GB 3.5-inch hard disk cost
about $100, with a decent external enclosure adding only $30. (If you’re not
a do-it-yourselfer, prebuilt solutions are about 50% more.)
There are basically three software-based backup technologies included with
Windows Vista:
Back Up Files
The Back Up Files wizard attempts to make it easy to back up your personal data onto any drive—removable or otherwise—and restore individual files as needed. Just open the Backup and Restore Center
(Figure 6-11) and click the Back up files button.
Unfortunately, this feature is severely limited. For one, you can’t choose
which files to back up, but rather only which types of files to back up
(and there’s not much latitude there, either). Next, the Back Up Files
wizard tool won’t back up your system files, your Registry, or anything
else you’d need to quickly rebuild your PC in the event of a catastrophe; for that, you’ll need the Complete PC Backup and Restore tool (discussed next) or third-party backup software (such as that included with
some external hard disk products).
The automatic backup provided by the Back Up Files wizard
is an essential ingredient to the Previous Versions feature discussed in “Go Back in Time with Restore Points and Shadow
Copies,” earlier in this chapter.
The Back Up Files wizard is included with all editions of Windows Vista.
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But what’s most frustrating about Back Up Files is how easily it trips up.
The first time you use the Back Up Files wizard, it asks you to choose a
destination, select files to back up, and—in all editions except Home
Basic—schedule future backups. Thereafter, clicking Back up files will
start a backup immediately, and without any prompts. But if Windows
can’t find the previous backup archives—you’ve deleted them, switched
media, etc.—Windows won’t ask you to make it right; the backup will
just fail. To fix the problem, click the Change settings link, click
Change backup settings, and specify a new location to save the backup.
(Never mind if you don’t want to choose a different destination; just
change it and then change it back.)
Complete PC Backup and Restore
If you have the Business, Ultimate, or Enterprise edition of Windows
Vista, you have access to the handy Complete PC Backup and Restore
feature. This tool copies every last byte on your hard disk to the destination of your choice, making it possible to restore your PC easily in the
event of a hard disk crash or other catastrophe. Just open the Backup
and Restore Center (Figure 6-11), click the Back up computer button,
and follow the prompts to create image files of each of your hard disks.
Figure 6-11. The Backup and Restore Center, showing the Back Up Files wizard that
everybody gets, plus the Complete PC Backup and Restore tool only included with higherend editions of Vista
But as though Microsoft had plotted some cruel joke, you can’t restore
individual files from Complete PC backups, at least not without a little
hack demonstrated later in this section. (Microsoft’s advice, if you can
believe it, is to back up your data twice—once with Complete PC
Backup and once with the Back Up Files wizard—if you want complete
protection and the luxury of restoring individual files.)
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Shadow Copies/Previous Versions
The Shadow Copies feature, also known as previous versions, is only
available in the Business, Ultimate, and Enterprise editions of Vista. It’s
an extension of the System Restore feature, which stores older versions
of system files and hardware drivers in case Windows won’t start as the
result of a recent change. See “Go Back in Time with Restore Points and
Shadow Copies,” earlier in this chapter, for details.
Truth be told, there’s a fourth means of automated backup supported by
Vista; see the upcoming sidebar, “Protect Your Data with RAID,” for the
scoop.
Restore a Complete PC Backup
A saving grace of Vista’s Complete PC Backup and Restore is how simple it
is. True, a few more features and interactivity would’ve been nice (such as
the ability to restore individual files), but at least it works as advertised.
Restoring a Complete PC Backup involves erasing your hard
disk and replacing all your data with the data in the backup.
This means any data on your hard disk created or modified
since your last backup will be sucked into oblivion, so you’ll
likely only want to use this feature if your hard disk crashes.
If you’re restoring from within Windows, consider making
another, newer backup on different media before you restore
the older archive.
Restore individual files from a Complete PC Backup
The most egregious limitation of the Complete PC Backup tool is that
Microsoft made no provision for restoring individual files from backup
archives. Their solution? Create a second backup with the lesser Back Up
Files wizard and use it to restore individual files. Never mind that your backups will take twice as long to complete, consume much more disk space,
and provide individual file restoration only for personal documents. Why
Microsoft didn’t simply provide the following tools is anybody’s guess.
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There are two ways to restore a backup made by the Complete PC Backup
tool. The first method, useful when you’re rebuilding your PC with a new
hard disk or when Windows won’t start, is outlined in “Recover Your System After a Crash,” later in this chapter. The other method—the one Vista
doesn’t support out of the box—is explained next.
Protect Your Data with RAID
RAID, or Redundant Array of Inexpensive Disks, is a collection of two or more
hard drives that your PC (and Windows) treats as a single volume. Save your
data once, and it’s invisibly stored on two different physical disks simultaneously. If one of your drives fails, just swap it out for a new one and keep working while your RAID subsystem rebuilds the new drive in the background.
RAID comes in several varieties, but not all offer this vital redundancy. Raid 1
is the most common, safeguarding your PC by “mirroring” your data on your
multiple drives. Raid 0, on the other hand, spreads your data across multiple
drives to improve performance (called striping), yet offers no data redundancy. Raid 5 works similarly to Raid 0, but adds a “parity” mechanism to
safeguard your data, and requires at least three drives. Finally, Raid 10 offers
true mirroring (like Raid 1) and striping (like Raid 0)—the best of both
worlds—but requires four drives for the full effect. Raid 1 is the easiest to
implement and is the least expensive way to get data protection from RAID.
The first ingredient you need is a SATA RAID controller, one either built in
to your motherboard, or, barring that, an add-on RAID card. Next, you need
two SATA hard disks of the same capacity, preferably the same brand and
model, too.
To get started, plug your drives into ports 0 and 1, respectively, unless your
documentation says otherwise. (Some controllers have dedicated RAID
plugs.) To make room, you may need to relegate any other SATA devices,
such as DVD drives, to higher-numbered ports. To set up the drives, enter
your PC’s BIOS setup screen (see Appendix A), and make sure all of the
SATA ports you’re using are enabled. Next, disable any unused SATA ports
(some RAID controllers mistake unused ports for missing drives), and then
turn on the RAID feature if it’s not already on. Save your settings and reboot
when you’re done.
After the BIOS setup prompt but before Windows begins to load, look for a message from your RAID controller, and then press the required keystroke (e.g.,
Ctrl-I for the Intel Matrix Storage Manager) to enter your RAID configuration
utility. Use this screen to select drives and build your array. (Since this step
may erase any data on your drives, make sure they’re fully backed up before
you proceed.)
When you’re done, you can install Windows (see Chapter 1) or restore your
backup (if applicable) on the array as though it were only a single drive. Once
you’re back in Windows, install the RAID management software so you can
monitor the health of your array.
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There is one thing to gain by running both a Complete PC
Backup and a backup with the Back Up Files wizard: shadow
copies. If you have plenty of disk space to spare, create a second partition (see Chapter 5). Then use Back Up Files to
schedule routine backups of your personal documents on the
new parition. Once this is underway, you’ll be able to use
the Previous Versions feature, as described in “Go Back in
Time with Restore Points and Shadow Copies,” earlier in
this chapter.
Complete PC Backup creates its backups in the form of virtual hard disk
image (.vhd) files, the very same files used by Microsoft Virtual PC and Virtual Server to store data for virtual machines. Not only does this allow
Vista’s Complete PC Restore tool to rebuild a hard disk from a backup, but
it means that you can open a window to the past, so to speak, and operate a
virtual PC off your backup. It also means you can restore individual files...
with the right software.
First, download the latest version of Virtual Server 2005, freely available at
http://www.microsoft.com/virtualserver/. (Nevermind the version number;
the latest release at the time of this writing, R2 SP1, works just fine with
Vista.) Get either the 32-bit or 64-bit version, depending on your edition of
Vista, and save the setup.exe file in a new folder named virtualserver on your
desktop.
When the download is complete, open a Command Prompt window in
administrator mode (see Chapter 8) and use the cd command (Chapter 9) to
make the new folder the active folder, like this:
where username is your username. Now, if you wish, you can install the
entire Virtual Server application, but it’s not necessary for the purposes of
this solution. Instead, all you need are a handful of files. Start by extracting
the .msi installer file by typing this command at the prompt:
setup /c /t .
Make sure to put spaces between the parameters, and don’t forget the lone
dot at the end. Next, type this command to install the VHDMount utility
from the archive:
msiexec /i "Virtual Server 2005 Install.msi" /qn ADDLOCAL=VHDMount
Note that VHDMount is case-sensitive, so type the command exactly as shown.
When that’s done, close the Command Prompt window. If you like, you can
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cd \users\username\desktop\virtualserver
delete both setup.exe and Virtual Server 2005 Install.msi, although it may be
wise to hold on to setup.exe in case Microsoft decides to discontinue the
product, or worse, start charging for it.
The installer puts the VHDMount utility in the \Program Files\Microsoft
Virtual Server\Vhdmount folder. But since it’s a Command Prompt program, there’s one more thing to do to make it more easily accessible: download the vhdmount.reg Registry patch file from http://annoyances.org/
downloads/vhdmount.reg, or type the following into Notepad and save it as
vhdmount.reg:
Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\.vhd]
@="Virtual.Machine.HD"
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Classes\Virtual.Machine.HD\shell]
@="Mount"
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Classes\Virtual.Machine.HD\shell\Mount\command]
@="\"C:\\Program Files\\Microsoft Virtual Server\\Vhdmount\\vhdmount.exe\"
/p \"%1\""
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\Virtual.Machine.HD\Shell\Unmount-commit]
@="Unmount (commit changes)"
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\Virtual.Machine.HD\Shell\Unmount-commit\command]
@="\"C:\\Program Files\\Microsoft Virtual Server\\Vhdmount\\vhdmount.exe\"
/u /c \"%1\""
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\Virtual.Machine.HD\Shell\Unmount-discard]
@="Unmount (discard changes)"
[HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\Virtual.Machine.HD\Shell\Unmount-discard\command]
@="\"C:\\Program Files\\Microsoft Virtual Server\\Vhdmount\\vhdmount.exe\"
/u /d \"%1\""
If your Program Files folder is on a different drive than C:, edit the
vhdmount.reg file and change both occurrences of the VHDMount folder
path to the correct location. Double-click the vhdmount.reg file and answer
Yes to merge it with your Registry.
In theory, the aforementioned components are all you need,
but in practice, the VHDMount utility may not work until
you also install the full Microsoft Virtual PC package (not the
same as Virtual Server). You can get Virtual PC 2007 for free
from http://www.microsoft.com/virtualpc/. You don’t have to
use the program, only have it present on your system.
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Now that all the pieces are in place, open Windows Explorer and navigate to
the folder containing your backup. If you’re using an external hard disk
assigned to J: as your backup drive, your .vhd files are in J:\
WindowsImageBackup\{computername}\Backup {date}, where {computername}
is the name of your PC and {date} is the date of your last backup.
Right-click a .vhd file and select Mount. A Command Prompt window will
appear briefly with a message; leave it alone while it does its job. If you see
any Found New Hardware messages, click Locate and install driver software (recommended) and follow the prompts.
To confirm that all the drivers are in place, open Device
Manager (devmgmt.msc). In the Disk drives category, you
should see an MS Virtual Service SCSI Disk Device entry.
You should also see a Microsoft Virtual Server Storage
Devices category, with at least one entry by the same name.
If they’re not there, look in the Other devices category for
any Unknown device entries. See “What to do when Windows can’t find a driver,” earlier in this chapter, for help getting these drivers installed.
With all the drivers in place, you should see a new drive in Windows
Explorer, from which you can restore any individual files from your backup
by just dragging and dropping. If it’s not there, open Disk Manager
(diskmgmt.msc, discussed in Chapter 5), and if you see a drive in the lower
pane with no drive letter, right-click Change Drive Letter and Paths and
assign an unused drive letter to the virtual drive.
Recover Your System After a Crash
The purpose of backing up is to give you the opportunity to restore your system to its original state if something nasty should happen to your hard disk,
whether it be theft, fire, malfunction, termites, or just your own clumsiness.
You’d be surprised at how many people back up their systems without having any idea how to restore it later should the need arise. The backup doesn’t
do you any good if you can’t get at your files later, so it’s important to take
steps to make sure you can restore your system from scratch if necessary.
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When you’re done with the backup, return to the folder containing your .vhd
files, right-click the one you’ve mounted, and select Unmount (discard
changes). (Only use the other option, commit changes, if you made changes
to the virtual drive that you want to keep.) The drive should disappear from
Windows Explorer immediately.
So, assume your hard disk is completely dead, totally empty, or missing, and
you now need to restore your PC onto an empty volume.
If you have the Business, Ultimate, or Enterprise edition of Windows Vista,
you can use the Complete PC Backup and Restore tool for this purpose, as
described in “Back Up Your Entire System,” earlier in this chapter. To
restore a Complete PC backup, boot off your Vista setup disc (see
Chapter 1), and when you see the Install Now page, click the Repair your
computer link and then click Windows Complete PC Restore, as shown
earlier in Figure 6-3.
So, what do you do if you don’t have a genuine, bootable
Vista installation CD, but rather only a proprietary “Recovery” disc or partition provided by your PC manufacturer? In
this case, you’ll need to first use your PC’s Recovery feature
to rebuild your default Windows installation. When that’s
done, restart your PC and press F8 to open the Advanced
Boot Options menu described in “What to Do When Windows Won’t Start,” and depicted in Figure 6-4, earlier in this
chapter. Use the arrow keys to select the Repair Your Computer option and then follow the prompts. When the System Recovery Options page appears, click Windows
Complete PC Restore.
(If you don’t see the aforementioned Repair Your Computer
option, your PC manufacturer screwed up; at this point, you
should contact the company and demand a genuine Windows install disc.)
Otherwise, if you have the Home Premium or Home Basic edition, you may
have more work cut out for you. Assuming you’ve used the Back Up Files
wizard described earlier in this chapter, you’ll need to install Windows or
use your PC’s recovery disc before you can restore any of your files. (You’ll
also need to install each of your applications if you want to subsequently
open your documents.) Once you’re back in Windows, open the Backup
and Restore Center (shown previously in Figure 6-11), click the Restore files
button, and follow the prompts.
But what if your hard disk isn’t empty? Say Windows got hosed and won’t
start, or perhaps you just lost half your data files. Unless your backup is
from this morning, you won’t necessarily want to erase all your recent files
and replace them with whatever is in your backup archive. In this case, you
can place a parallel installation of Vista on your drive, as described in “Fresh
install on a dirty drive” in Chapter 1. Or, you can install a new drive, restore
your Complete PC backup onto it, and then hook up your old drive and
copy your recent data onto it. (The latter solution has the advantage of
allowing you to format or discard the damaged drive.)
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Pop quiz: how do you compromise your PC’s security, stability, and performance in about 10 seconds, without installing any new software? If you
guessed, “sledgehammer,” you’re wrong—that takes only two seconds.
Of course, the correct answer is “connect it to a network.” You get bonus
points if you added, “leave Vista’s security settings intact.”
It’s fair to say that Windows Vista is more secure than any previous (networkcapable) version of Windows, but unfortunately, that’s not quite as earthshattering as it sounds. Sure, Vista’s Windows Firewall isn’t booby-trapped to
prevent file sharing or time synchronization like it was in XP, but the defaults
in Vista still leave most of your PC vulnerable to anyone who knows where to
look.
Use this chapter plus Chapter 8 to connect your PC to a local network and
the Internet without having to worry that Vista isn’t doing its job of keeping
your data safe.
Build Your Network
As far as Vista is concerned, your connection to the Internet is no different
than your connection to other PCs in your home or office. It’s this fact that
makes Windows all at once easy to network and frustrating to troubleshoot
and secure.
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Terminology Primer
To start building a network, you should understand a few basic networking
concepts:
The distinction between local and remote resources
A local resource is an object—a folder on your hard disk or a printer
physically connected to your PC—that’s accessible without a network
connection. A remote resource is one that resides on another computer
to which yours is connected over a network. For example, a web page at
www.annoyances.org is a remote file, but an HTML file on your own
hard disk is a local file, even though they may appear indistinguishable
in a browser. Vista tries to blur the line, a strategy that sometimes works
and other times causes problems: for instance, different security restrictions and drag-drop rules apply to remote files and folders than to local
ones, and the subtlety can be a pain in one’s keister.
LAN versus WAN
LAN is shorthand for Local Area Network, a small assemblage of PCs in
a home or small office connected with cables or wireless signals. Likewise, WAN stands for Wide Area Network, or a network formed by connecting computers over large distances (e.g., the Internet).
Ethernet
Ethernet is the wired technology upon which the vast majority of local
area networks is built. Any PC capable of handling Vista is likely to have a
built-in Ethernet adapter (also called a NIC, or Network Interface Card).
A standard Ethernet connection is capable of moving data up
to 10 megabits per second (Mbps; see “Bandwidth,” later in
this list), a Fast Ethernet connection (sometimes marked
“10/100”) can move data at 100 Mbps, and a Gigabit connection can move data at up to 1000 Mbps.
WiFi
WiFi is a trendy shorthand term for wireless networking based on the
802.11x standards. The early favorite was 802.11b, but with a leisurely
maximum speed of only 11 Mbps, it was quickly obsoleted by 802.11g
(54 Mbps). Further tweaking has given us multichannel 802.11g and the
overhyped 802.11n standards, both of which promise even faster speeds
and greater range. Of course, all of these advertised specs assume laboratory-perfect conditions, so unless you’re interested in building a vacuum chamber for your wireless equipment, you’ll likely get about a
third of the quoted speed of your equipment (and less, the poorer the
reception gets).
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A further caveat is that you need matched equipment to get
the best performance: your laptop must have an ‘n’ radio to
get the most out of an ‘n’ network. Luckily, each of these
standards (with the exception of 802.11a) is backwardcompatible with earlier incarnations, so an older ‘g’ laptop
will still work on a newer ‘n’ network, albeit at the slower
‘g’ speed. Of course, with typical DSL and cable Internet
speeds at only 1–3 Mbps, a faster WiFi signal will do nothing to get you your email any faster.
Bluetooth
Bluetooth is a wireless networking “standard” (the term must be used
loosely here). Bluetooth will never supplant WiFi, nor is it meant to.
Rather, it’s an inexpensive, low-power technology and is commonly
used in high-end cell phones, handheld PDAs, and some laptops. Most
people get their first taste of Bluetooth with wireless cell phone headsets or cordless mice and keyboards, but it does much more than that
(at least in theory). See “Get Bluetooth to Work,” later in this chapter, if
you feel like wasting an afternoon installing and reinstalling Bluetooth
drivers.
Bandwidth
Bandwidth is the capacity of a network connection to move information (the size of the pipe, so to speak). Bandwidth is measured in Kbps
(kilobits per second) for slow connections, Mbps (megabits per second)
for faster connections such as DSL, cable, or Ethernet LAN connections, and Gbps (gigabits per second) for the kinds of connections used
by huge corporations and Internet providers.
Bandwidth is a shared resource. If a network connection is
capable of transferring data at, say, 1.5 Mbps, and two
users simultaneously download large files, each will only
have roughly 0.75 Mbps (or 768 Kbps) of bandwidth at
their disposal.
To translate a bandwidth measurement into more practical terms, you’ll
need to convert bits to bytes. There are 8 bits to a byte, so you can
determine the theoretical maximum data transfer rate of a connection
by simply dividing by 8. For example, a 384 Kbps connection transfers
384/8 = 48 kilobytes of data per second, which should allow you to
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Ethernet-based local networks can transfer data at up to 1,000 Mbps.
High-speed T1, DSL, and cable modem connections typically transfer
data up to 1.0 to 6.0 Mbps, while the fastest analog modems communicate at a glacial 56 Kbps, or 0.056 Mbps.
transfer a 1 megabyte file in a little more than 20 seconds. However,
there is more going on than just data transfer (such as error correction), so
actual performance will always be slower than the theoretical maximum.
Protocols
A protocol is the language, so to speak, that your computer uses to communicate with other computers on a network. Now, the days of configuring individual network protocols are long past, having died out with
the Windows 95/98 generation. As long as your stuff speaks TCP/IP,
it’ll work, provided you don’t mind occasionally typing in numeric IP
addresses.
TCP/IP
TCP/IP is a protocol, or more accurately, a collection of protocols, used
in all Internet communications and by most modern LANs. For those of
you excited by acronyms, the TCP/IP specification includes TCP
(Transmission Control Protocol), IP (Internet Protocol), UDP (User
Datagram Protocol), and ICMP (Internet Control Message Protocol).
The amazing thing about TCP/IP, and the reason that it serves as the
foundation of every connection to the Internet, is that data is broken up
into packets before it’s sent on its way. The packets then travel to their
destinations independently, possibly arriving in a different order than
they were originally sent. The receiving computer then reassembles the
packets (in the correct order) back into data.
TCP Ports
TCP/IP data moves in and out of your PC through ports, virtual doors
opened by the software that uses your network connection. For example, your email program uses port 25 to send email (using the SMTP
protocol) and port 110 to retrieve email (using the POP3 protocol),
while your web browser downloads pages through port 80 (using the
HTTP protocol). Other commonly used ports are listed in Appendix B.
Windows and some applications typically leave more ports
open than you probably need, potentially making your PC
vulnerable to spyware, pop ups, viruses, intruders, and other
annoyances. See “Secure Your Networked PC,” later in this
chapter, for the solution.
IP addresses
An IP address is a set of four numbers (e.g., 207.46.230.218) that corresponds to a single computer or device on a TCP/IP-based network. Each
element of the address can range from 0 to 255, providing 2564 or
nearly 4.3 billion possible combinations. On the Internet, dedicated
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machines called domain name servers are used to translate named hosts,
such as www.microsoft.com, to their respective numerical IP addresses
and back again.
No two computers on a single network can have the same IP
address, but a single computer can have multiple IP
addresses (one for each network to which it’s connected). A
router, discussed later in this chapter, does allow multiple
PCs to share a single Internet connection (and thus a single
IP address), but only by creating a separate network (LAN)
and acting as a gateway between them.
To connect two different networks to each other, while still maintaining two separate sets of IP addresses, you’ll need either a bridge or a
router. Provided that you install two network adapters in your PC, Windows can act as an impromptu bridge; just highlight two connections in
your Network Connections window (discussed later in this chapter),
right-click, and select Bridge Connections. A router, of course, is a better choice because it works even if your PC is off, and includes firewall
protection to boot.
Firewalls, and why you need one
A firewall can be used to restrict unauthorized access to your system by
intruders, close backdoors opened by viruses and other malicious applications, and eliminate wasted bandwidth by blocking certain types of
network traffic.
A firewall is a layer of protection that permits or denies network communication based on a predefined set of rules. These rules are typically
based on the TCP port through which the data is sent, the IP address
from which the data originated, and the IP address to which the data is
destined.
Switches, access points, and routers
A switch allows you to connect more than two computers together—using
cables—to form a local network (see Figure 7-1, later in this chapter).
(Note that a hub does pretty much the same thing as a switch, but much
less efficiently.) Without a hub or switch, the best you could do is connect two computers to each other with a crossover cable (discussed later
in this chapter).
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The problem is that an improperly configured firewall can cause more
problems than it ends up preventing. Windows includes a rudimentary
firewall feature, described later in this chapter, but software-based firewalls simply don’t work as well as hardware firewalls like those found in
routers.
A wireless access point is essentially a switch (or a hub) for a wireless
network, allowing you to connect multiple computers wirelessly. Without an access point, you could only connect two computers wirelessly in
“ad hoc” mode (more on that later, too).
Finally, a router is a device that connects two networks, and routes traffic between them. For example, a router can connect a peer-to-peer
workgroup to the Internet, allowing you to share a single Internet connection with all the computers in your office (see “Share an Internet
Connection,” later in this chapter, for details). Most routers also double
as switches, just as wireless routers double as wireless access points.
Plus, any modern router (wireless or otherwise) will have a built-in firewall (typically superior to a software firewall that runs on your computer), so you can basically get everything you need in one inexpensive
package.
The good news is that Vista comes with everything you need to take advantage of all of these standards, and use them to access the Internet or share
files and devices with other PCs on your network. The bad news is that it’s
almost never as easy to get it working properly as the industry would lead
you to believe.
To Wire or Not to Wire
Wiring is a pain, but it works. Wireless is convenient, but flaky. Luckily,
you don’t have to just stick with one system, nor have it all planned out
ahead of time.
For best results, wire your nonmobile desktop system to your router/switch/
hub when it’s nearby. Cables aren’t affected by poor reception, security
codes, or interference, and they provide full speed all the time.
Plug one end of an Ethernet cable into your router or DSL/cable modem,
and the other end into your PC, and you’re done; Vista will set up the connection and get you on the Net in less than two seconds, no questions
asked. And unless a small rodent chews its way through said cable, it’ll keep
working until you unplug it.
If you see a prompt that entices you to Connect to a network, resist the urge if you’re using cables; even though it
doesn’t explicitly say it, the window that appears when you
click this link is only for connecting to wireless networks.
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Wiring can vary in complexity and cost, depending on your needs, budget, and
office layout. (See the upcoming “Cabling Tips” sidebar for additional help.)
For example, if you have two or more desktop computers in the same room,
wiring is a simple matter of adding a switch and one category-5 patch cable
for each machine, as shown in Figure 7-1. More PCs require a switch with
more ports, or possibly multiple switches connected together, and of course,
more cables.
Figure 7-1. An example of a wired peer-to-peer network (LAN) comprised of three
computers connected with a switch (or hub); the printer is connected to one of the PCs,
which shares it with the others
If you only have two computers, you can eliminate the switch and simply
connect them with an inexpensive category-5 crossover cable, as shown in
Figure 7-2. Total cost: $3.99.
Most of the time, it doesn’t make sense to use cables to connect a laptop to
your network unless its wireless doesn’t work. (Of course, if you’re using a
docking station, plugging in is more practical, but that’s up to you.) Wireless, of course, is slicker than using cables, and works anywhere within
range of the router; no drilling holes in walls so you can feed cables to all
parts of your home or office. Figure 7-3 shows a typical wireless network
with four computers (three PCs and one PDA).
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Figure 7-2. A quick and dirty hubless workgroup; given its limitations, however, it’s best
suited as a temporary solution
Figure 7-3. A wireless router acts as both a wireless access point and a switch, allowing
you to connect any number of computers —and even WiFi-enabled PDAs—to form a
wireless LAN (WiFi antennas are typically internal, and are shown here only for
illustrative purposes)
Wireless needs more setup than cables (if you do it right) and is less reliable than Ethernet. Windows needs at least 5–10 seconds to connect to a
previously configured wireless network (more for the first time), and may
drop your connection as you move around.
Speed may or may not be a factor in your decision. WiFi is
not nearly as fast as wired Ethernet; common 802.11g wireless connections (rated at 54 Mbps) transfer data at about
20–30 Mbps, and this speed drops rapidly as reception worsens. The fastest Ethernet connections move data at 1,000
Mbps (1 Gbps), reception notwithstanding. Of course, the
difference is moot if you’re only doing Internet (typical
broadband is only about 1–3 Mbps), but if you need to
transfer files between PCs in your workgroup, wired Ethernet will do it in a fraction of the time.
So, what if you want the convenience of wireless, but the speed and reliability of cables? The short answer is to wait about five years for the technology
to improve, and then pick up the latest Annoyances book to learn why you’ll
need to wait another five years. The even shorter answer is to simply connect your WiFi-equipped laptop to your network with a cable when your
wireless gets cranky or you need to transfer files. Luckily, a properly configured network should have no trouble handling both wired and wireless PCs.
Figure 7-4 shows a common peer-to-peer network setup with two wired
desktop computers and a wireless connection to a laptop.
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Cabling Tips
Within a second or two of connecting both ends of a network cable, the corresponding lights on your hardware should light up. Lights should be visible
right on the network adapter, whether it’s in the back of your desktop computer or in the side of your laptop. (Note that some devices use multicolor
LEDs that appear green if the connection is correct, and red if it’s wrong.)
Flashing lights usually mean data is being transferred.
Connect all your cables while your switch and any other equipment are
turned on and while Windows is running. That way, you’ll see the corresponding lights go on, indicating that the switch, router, or NIC has detected
the new connection. Note that the lights only confirm that the cabling is correct; they won’t tell you whether the drivers and protocols are correctly
installed.
Use only category-5 (Cat-5) patch cables, except for a few very specific situations that require category-5 crossover cables. Use a crossover cable to connect two computers directly (without a hub, switch, or router) or to connect
two switches. In some cases where a DSL/cable modem connects directly to a
computer with a patch cable, a crossover cable may be required to connect
either of these devices to a hub or switch (naturally, consult the documentation
to be sure). Either way, if the lights go on, you’re using the right kind of cable.
When measuring for cables, always add several extra feet to each cable; too
long is better than too short. Also, bad cables are not uncommon, so have a
few extras around in case any of those lights don’t light up.
Shop around when looking for cables. Most of the huge mega-computer
stores charge too much for cables; you can often find longer, better cables at
a fraction of the price (sans the fancy packaging) by shopping at smaller
mom-and-pop computer stores.
Finally, if your cables are to pass through walls, you may want to install
category-5 wall jacks for the tidiest appearance. Note that these accessories
can be expensive and cumbersome to wire properly, and are typically unnecessary for all but the most compulsive neat-freaks among us. <Grin>
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There’s one crucial aspect of wireless networking that simply doesn’t exist
on a wired network: intruders. By default, most wireless routers have no
security features enabled, meaning that any WiFi-enabled computer within
range can connect to your workgroup and use your Internet connection. See
“Set Up a Wireless Router,” next, and “Sniff Out WiFi Hotspots,” later in
this chapter, for help securing your wireless network and connecting to
someone else’s unsecured wireless network, respectively.
Figure 7-4. You can mix and match wired and wireless devices with a wireless router;
these three computers are on the same network, despite the different means of connection
Set Up a Wireless Router
If you’ve read other solutions in this chapter, you’ve probably seen routers
mentioned several times (if not, drop back to the “Terminology Primer” section to read up).
A router allows you to connect your computer (or your workgroup) to the
Internet, while simultaneously protecting you with its built-in firewall. A
wireless router does the same thing, but also adds a wireless access point,
which allows you to connect any number of WiFi devices to each other and
to the Internet.
A typical WiFi setup was shown in Figure 7-3 (see, no wires), but you’ll
probably want something closer to the setup shown later in Figure 7-20, in
which a wireless router provides Internet access to all your computers.
Here’s how to set this up and configure the security measures that should’ve
been enabled out of the box:
1. Plug your DSL or cable modem (or whatever broadband connection
you’re using) into your router’s WAN or Internet port.
2. Use an Ethernet cable to connect at least one PC to one of the numbered
ports on your router, even if you eventually want to use that PC wirelessly.
3. Dispense with the software that comes with your router. Instead, open a
web browser on the wired PC and type the IP address of your router
into the address bar. In most cases, this is 192.168.1.1, but your router
may be different; refer to your router’s documentation for details. (You
may also need to log in with a username and password at this point,
also listed in said documentation, at least in theory.) If you can’t connect to your router, and you’re sure your PC’s network card is working,
see the “Can’t Connect To Your Router?” sidebar, next.
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Can’t Connect To Your Router?
If you can’t load your router’s setup page, and you’re certain you’re using the
correct IP address, the most likely cause is that your PC and your router are
not on the same subnet. The subnet is the range of addresses governed by
the first three components of the IP address, and Windows likes the default
192.168.1.x subnet.
This means that the first three numbers of your computer’s IP address must
mach the first three numbers of your router’s IP address, while the fourth number must be different. For instance, if your router’s address is 192.168.0.1, then
you might not be able to connect to it until you either change your PC’s
address to 192.168.0.x (where x is any number larger than zero) or change
your router’s address to 192.168.1.1 to connect to the router.
Now, in theory, Vista should do all of this for you when you use the Obtain
an IP address automatically option described later in this chapter, but this is
notorious for not working when the subnets don’t match. If you suspect this
is the problem, try setting a static IP address on your PC, at least temporarily,
until you can connect to your router and reconfigure it to use the 192.168.1.x
subnet.
4. Once you get your connection to your router working, you’ll see your
router’s setup page, which should look vaguely like the one in
Figure 7-5. Of course, your router’s setup page will almost certainly
look different, but most of the same settings will still be there.
5. Choose your connection type from the list. If your Internet connection
requires a username and password, select PPPoE. If your ISP has provided an IP address for your connection, select Static IP. Otherwise,
choose Automatic Configuration - DHCP.
6. If you’ve selected PPPoE or Static IP in the previous step, you’ll probably need to enter the IP addresses of your ISP’s DNS servers (your ISP
should provide these numbers for you).
8. At this point, you should have Internet access; go ahead and test it by
opening a second browser window (Ctrl-N) and visiting any web site.
9. Take this opportunity to visit the router manufacturer’s web site and
look for an update to the router firmware; if there’s a newer version,
download and install it right away.
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7. Click Apply or Save Settings at the bottom of the page when you’re
done.
Figure 7-5. Most routers use a web-based setup, meaning that you can configure your
router from any computer, running on any platform, as long as it has a web browser
Firmware updates typically fix bugs and improve performance, and substantial updates may add support for newer
encryption protocols like WPA2 (discussed later), so don’t
skip this step!
10. Next, go to your router’s wireless setup page, like the one shown in
Figure 7-6—you can get there with either a link in the main menu or a
tab across the top of the page—and choose a new name (SSID) for your
wireless network. (Note that the SSID should not be confused with the
Windows network name used in Chapter 8.)
The only way Vista distinguishes one configured network from another
is the SSID, so choose a unique name for your network. If you were to
use a generic name like “wireless” or leave the default name (e.g., “linksys”) intact, you might run into a problem later on. For instance, if a
neighbor has a WiFi network with the same name, you might not be
able to see your own network. Or, if your home network has the same
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Figure 7-6. Use your router’s wireless setup page to configure the security settings for
your wireless network
name as the one at work, yet both have different encryption settings (set
later in this section), Windows may not recognize both networks as
unique without a lot of hassle.
When choosing an SSID, you should also avoid names that give away
your location, such as your street address or the name of your business.
An intruder—or WiFi leech, for that matter—might exploit that extra
information to boost his or her own signal or, worse, break into your
network.
11. Next, check to see whether the Wireless SSID Broadcast option is
turned on or off, and make sure it’s set the way you want it.
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Opinions differ on whether turning off SSID broadcast is a
good or bad idea. Your SSID is a backdoor to your wireless
network; if you broadcast your SSID, you expose one more
piece of information someone could use to connect to your
network. If it’s hidden (and you’ve chosen a unique name),
you make it that much harder for someone to break in. On
the other hand, a hidden SSID doesn’t necessarily guarantee
an invisible network; in fact, certain settings in Windows can
be exploited to expose your hidden SSID, as described in the
next section, “Sniff Out WiFi Hotspots.” So, don’t rely solely
on a hidden SSID to protect your wireless network.
When you’re done here, click Apply or Save Settings.
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12. Next, you’ll want to set up your router’s encryption feature for the best
wireless security. You can typically get to this setting by clicking a button on the wireless page named Encryption, WEP, or—in the case of
the example in Figure 7-6—a separate tab named Wireless Security.
Figure 7-7 shows a typical wireless encryption setup page.
Figure 7-7. Configure your wireless router’s encryption settings to prevent others from
connecting to your wireless network without your permission
Now, Vista understands several different types of wireless encryption,
all used to prevent intruders from connecting to or spying on your wireless network unless they have your secret encryption key. Of course,
some are better than others; see the upcoming “Choosing the Right
Encryption Scheme: WEP, WPA, or WPA2?” sidebar for details.
13. Once you’ve enabled wireless encryption, you’ll need to choose a key or
passphrase.
With WPA or WPA2, you type a word or a phrase into your router’s
setup page, and then type the same word or phrase into Windows to
connect, as described in “Sniff Out WiFi Hotspots,” next. (In
Figure 7-7, I chose “Beware of the Leopard!” as my passphrase.) The
stronger the passphrase you enter, the more secure your wireless network will be. A WPA passphrase can be 8–63 characters (bytes) long,
but the 802.11i standard recommends a passphrase at least 20 characters long to deter practical attacks.
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Choosing the Right Encryption Scheme: WEP, WPA, or WPA2?
Encrypting your wireless network accomplishes two things: it helps keep out
leeches who would otherwise use your WiFi for free Internet, and it helps prevent intruders from breaking into your system to snoop around your PC.
Of course, most wireless routers have encryption turned off by default, so any
choice you make is better than none at all. The three prevailing standards for
wireless encryption—all supported by Vista out of the box—are:
WEP
Wired Equivalent Privacy (or Wireless Encryption Protocol) is the original protection scheme included with early wireless routers, and it is also
the weakest. With the right software, an intruder can easily break into a
WEP-protected network in a few minutes using the Related-key attack.
Use WEP only if you have older PCs or devices that don’t support WPA,
described next.
WPA
WiFi Protected Access was established as a stopgap measure to remedy
the vulnerabilities in WEP. If you have any Windows XP machines on
your network, they’ll need Service Pack 2 to connect to a WPAencrypted network.
WPA2/PSK
Also known as 802.11i or PSK for Pre-Shared Key, WPA2 is the completed form of WPA, and is considered the strongest nonproprietary
encryption scheme for 802.11x wireless networks. Any wireless products
certified after March 2006 are supposed to fully support WPA2. WPA2
is supported under Windows XP if the WPA2/WPS IE update (available
at http://support.microsoft.com/kb/893357) is installed. Macs will need
AirPort 4.2 or later to use WPA.
Those using WPA or WPA2 will have a choice between the Personal and
Enterprise varieties. As enticing as Enterprise may sound, it requires a
RADIUS server typically used only in large companies, making Personal the
proper choice for most home and small-business networks.
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Next, your router may support the AES (Advanced Encryption Standard) or
TKIP (Temporal Key Integrity Protocol) encryption algorithms, or both. Of
the two, AES is stronger, but it is supported only by WPA2. If you experience
connection problems with AES, wherein certain web sites won’t load, try
switching to TKIP (or vice-versa). If your router allows it, select AES and
TKIP to make troubleshooting easier, and then choose one algorithm or the
other in Windows.
So, for best wireless security, choose WPA2-Personal with AES and TKIP.
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With WEP, your router may have you type a passphrase, but it’s only
used to generate a key. WEP keys are hexadecimal strings of numbers
(0–9) and letters (A–F), and are either 10 or 26 digits long (for 64- or
128-bit security, respectively). You then type the hex key—not the
passphrase—into Windows to connect.
Before you save your changes here, make things easy on
yourself and take this opportunity to record your passphrase
or key. Highlight the key (if there’s more than one, use the
first key, Key 1) and press Ctrl-C to copy it to the clipboard.
Then, open your favorite text editor (e.g., Notepad), and
press Ctrl-V to paste it into a new, empty document. Save
the file on your desktop (or a USB memory key to set up
other PCs); this will allow you to easily paste it into various
dialog boxes later on, which is easier than having to type it.
14. Click Apply or Save Settings at the bottom of the page when you’re
done.
15. Unplug the cable connecting your PC to your router, and then attempt a
wireless connection, as described in the next section, “Sniff Out WiFi
Hotspots.” See the upcoming “Router Placement 101” sidebar for ways to
improve reception (and thus the performance of your wireless network).
If you employ encryption using these settings, but you subsequently can’t connect to it wirelessly, it most likely means
that you’ve entered the encryption key incorrectly on your
PC. To fix the problem, you’ll have to reconnect your PC to
your router with a cable and modify the settings as described
here. If that doesn’t help, make sure you’ve installed the latest firmware on your router and the latest wireless drivers on
your PC. As a final resort, reset the router as described in
your router’s documentation, and start over.
While it’s important to employ as many security features on your wireless
network as you can, you shouldn’t rely entirely on them to protect your sensitive data. When you’re done here, make sure you set a password for your
Windows user account, and keep a watchful eye on precisely what resources
you’re sharing, both as described in Chapter 8.
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Router Placement 101
The tiny WiFi transceiver in your laptop should be capable of picking up any
wireless network within about 100 feet, perhaps a little more if you have
newer equipment. If indoors, this typically includes no more than about two
or three walls, and perhaps one floor or ceiling. But the placement of your
wireless router and the arrangement of natural obstacles near it will have a
significant effect on the strength and range of your WiFi signal.
Assuming you’re using a setup like the one pictured later in Figure 7-20, your
router will need to be within spitting distance of your DSL or cable modem.
But provided that the cable from your modem to your router is long enough,
you should have a little leeway there.
Your router should be out in the open; don’t put it under your desk, in a
drawer, or behind a metal file cabinet. If you’re feeding more than one computer, it should be placed in a central location, if possible. Use the signal
strength indicator (Figure 7-10) to test various configurations. Consider
cabling stationary computers so that you can optimize the placement of the
router for your portable ones.
The 802.11b, g, and n standards operate over the 2.4 Ghz band, which is also
inhabited by cordless phones and microwave ovens. (The black sheep of the
family, 802.11a, solves this problem by using the 5 Ghz band, but its short
range and limited compatibility make it an unpopular choice.) This means
that you’ll get better results if you move the router away from any cordlessphone base stations, televisions, radios, or TV dinners.
If, after adjusting the placement of your router, you still need more range than
it seems to be able to provide, consider either a repeater (range extender) or
an aftermarket antenna for your router. There are even a number of do-ityourself antenna projects for both the router and client (e.g., laptop), including the creative use of a Pringles™ can.
Sniff Out WiFi Hotspots
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The centerpiece of Windows’ built-in wireless networking is the “Connect
to a network” window shown in Figure 7-8, which basically serves as a WiFi
sniffer.
Figure 7-8. The “Connect to a network” window in Windows Vista lets you sniff out and
connect to any WiFi hotspots in range
To display the “Connect to a network” window, open the
Start menu and click Connect To (if it’s there). Or, click the
network icon to the right of the notification area (tray) and
then click the Connect to a network link. Or, if you’re in
Control Panel, open the Network and Sharing Center, and
click the Connect to a network link on the Tasks pane on
the left side. (Note that this window is not needed at all if
you’re connecting your PC to a network with a cable.)
A WiFi sniffer is a program (or device) that scans for and lists the WiFi networks within range. This is where the SSID Broadcast setting in the previous section, “Set Up a Wireless Router,” comes into play: as long as your
router is broadcasting your SSID, any sniffer within range will see it.
Just highlight an entry in the list and click Connect. Now, if a network is
identified as a Security-enabled network, you’ll need its encryption passphrase or key to connect to it. Provided it’s your own network, you can just
paste the passphrase from step 13 of “Set Up a Wireless Router,” earlier in
this chapter; otherwise, you’ll have to get it from the administrator of that
particular hotspot. Naturally, you won’t need a key for non-encrypted networks, only the patience to click through the security warning Vista displays every time you try.
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If you connect successfully, Vista will give you the opportunity to Save this network. To see a list of saved networks,
open the Manage Wireless Networks window, discussed in
the next section, “Troubleshoot Wireless Networks.”
Things are a little different if you’ve disabled your router’s SSID broadcast
option. For one, your WiFi network will either show up as Unnamed Network in the sniffer window, or it won’t show up at all. But more importantly,
you may have to go a different route to connect to your hidden network (particularly if there’s more than one “unnamed” network in range).
On the “Connect to a network” page, click the Set up a connection or network link on the bottom. Then, select Manually connect to a wireless network in the list, and click Next to open the page shown in Figure 7-9.
In the Network name field, type the SSID exactly as it appears in your router
setup page, and then choose the Security type (e.g., WEP, WPA2) that
matches the one used by your router.
Next comes the encryption key or passphrase. Now, despite the fact that it
clearly says Passphrase here, Windows Vista will only accept a passphrase if
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Figure 7-9. To connect to a wireless network that isn’t broadcasting its SSID, go to this
page to hand-enter the SSID and encryption key
you’re using WPA or WPA2 encryption; with WEP, you’re only allowed to
type the formal 10- or 26-digit WEP encryption key in the Security Key/
Passphrase field. So, turn on the Display characters option so you can see
what you’re doing, and then paste (press Ctrl-V) the key from step 13 of
“Set Up a Wireless Router,” earlier in this chapter.
Below, turn on the Start this connection automatically option, and then
pause while you try to figure out what Microsoft means when it warns you
that “Your computer’s privacy might be at risk” if you turn on the Connect
even if the network is not broadcasting option.
Give up? It turns out that Microsoft’s stated position — one not explained
anywhere on this window, but rather only published online at http://
www.microsoft.com/technet/network/wifi/hiddennet.mspx — is that if you
turn off your router’s SSID broadcast feature, bad things can happen.
It works like this: when connecting to a normal, broadcasting network,
Windows waits until it sees a network you’ve already set up before it
attempts to connect. But when you turn off SSID broadcast to hide your
wireless network, Windows continually sends out a signal with the hidden
SSID until it finds your network. And as you may have guessed, someone
wrote a program that “listens” for a PC that’s trying to connect to a hidden
network and records any SSIDs it encounters.
Now, in order for someone to discover your network’s hidden SSID, the
hacker must be within range of your PC when it’s on, and listening at the
moment it attempts to connect to your wireless network. If you’re already
connected at home or if you’re surfing the Web at the coffee shop, Windows won’t send out any signals. But more importantly, if someone discovers your SSID, she still won’t be able to connect to your network as long as
you’ve enabled encryption. As it is, a hidden SSID won’t adequately protect
your network if it’s the sole security measure, and that’s what Microsoft
means by its vague warning.
The aforementioned Connect even if the network is not
broadcasting option is a new feature in Windows Vista. If you
have any older PCs on your network running, say, Windows
XP, there is no such option unless you install the Wireless Client Update at http://support.microsoft.com/?kbid=917021.
So, to connect to your home network with a hidden SSID, you have four
choices:
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• Take Microsoft’s advice and configure your wireless router to broadcast
its SSID. Rely on encryption, explained in “Set Up a Wireless Router,”
earlier in this chapter, and authentication, described in Chapter 8, to
protect your privacy. Then, connect to your network as described earlier in this section.
• Turn off your router’s SSID Broadcast setting and enable the Connect
even if the network is not broadcasting option. This way, your PC will
automatically connect to your hidden network whenever it’s in range,
but you’ll run the risk of exposing your “secret” SSID. If you do this,
make sure you encrypt your network and that you employ authentication (Chapter 8) in full force.
• Turn off your router’s SSID Broadcast setting, but don’t use the Connect
even if the network is not broadcasting option. But beware: it’s a trap!
Here’s the problem: since your network is not broadcasting, Windows
won’t ever connect to it automatically. So, you need to connect by
hand, but how?
When you click Next on this page, Vista saves the network you’ve just
set up in the Manage Wireless Networks window (discussed in the next
section), but there’s no Connect button there. Don’t try using the
“Manually connect to a wireless network” window either, as it’ll just
ask you to set up another new network. And since your network isn’t
broadcasting, it won’t show up in the “Connect to a network” window,
at least not yet.
The solution is to wait. Eventually, the “Connect to a network” window will list your hidden network, assuming it’s in range. (It knows
when it’s in range, by the way, because it continually polls the airwaves
for the network, using the process described earlier in this section that
supposedly compromises your privacy.) If you don’t see your new network entry after a few minutes, close all open network windows and
then reopen the “Connect to a network” window; if that doesn’t help,
restart Windows and try again.
• Your final option is to abandon wireless altogether and use a cable. Cables
are a pain, but intruders won’t be able to break into your wireless-less network without cables of their own. And that’s about as secure as it gets.
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If your hidden network entry never shows up, you’ll need to either turn
on the SSID Broadcast option in your router (the first bullet point in
this list) or use the Connect even if the network is not broadcasting
option (the second bullet point).
Back on Earth, or more specifically, the “Manually connect to a wireless network” window, click Next when you’re done toiling with these settings. If
you see a message at this point that reads, “A network called xxx already
exists,” see the next section, “Troubleshoot Network Connections.” Otherwise, Vista should tell you that it has “successfully added” your network.
If you used the Start this connection automatically option on the last page,
Vista should be connecting as you read these words, and you can just click
Close here. Otherwise, click Connect to to return to the “Connect to a network” window, select your new network, and click Connect. Of course, if
it’s a hidden network as described earlier, it won’t show up there, so you’ll
have to click Change connection settings and then turn on the Connect
even if the network is not broadcasting option in order to connect.
If Vista won’t connect, see “Troubleshoot Wireless Networks,” next.
Troubleshoot Wireless Networks
WiFi tends to be temperamental, not to mention annoying and tear-yourhair-out frustrating. So, what do you do when you can’t connect to a wireless network you’ve just set up?
Your instinct might be to attempt to connect again through the “Connect to
a network” window. Or, if you’re connecting to a network with a hidden
SSID (described in the previous section), you may click the Set up a connection or network link to attempt to enter all the information about your network again. Of course, Vista will either let you complete setting up this
network only to have it not work, or complain that a network by that name
already exists. Arrgghhh.
Instead, you should go directly to the little-known Manage Wireless Networks window (Figure 7-10) via a tiny link by the same name on the left of
the Network and Sharing Center window.
Here, you’ll see all the wireless networks you’ve ever saved or set up manually, whether they’re in range or not. Double-click a network in the list to
show the Wireless Network Properties window (Figure 7-11). All the options
here are described in “Sniff Out WiFi Hotspots,” earlier in this chapter.
Here’s how to solve some of the more common wireless connection problems:
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Figure 7-10. Use the Manage Wireless Networks window to fix broken wireless
connections or delete wireless networks you no longer use
Windows cannot connect to xxx. This can be caused by a variety of problems, but Windows won’t tell you which one. The most likely cause, at
least when you’re connecting to an encrypted network, is that you
entered the wrong WPA passphrase or WEP key. If the network is hidden, you may have typed the wrong SSID (or if there’s more than one
hidden network in range, you may have selected the wrong one).
If you ask Windows to diagnose the problem, it’ll probably suggest a
weak signal, but that’s unlikely if the network is showing up in your list
with at least two signal-strength bars. More likely, it’s not a real network (perhaps someone else’s laptop errantly set to accept incoming
connections), or it’s using MAC address filtering, as described in “Lock
Out Unauthorized PCs,” next.
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Non-broadcasting network won’t show up. If you see an entry named
Unnamed Network, select it, click Connect, and fill out the details of
the hidden network. But if you’ve already set up this network and it still
isn’t showing up, then you’ve encountered a nasty little problem in
Windows Vista. See “Sniff Out WiFi Hotspots,” earlier in this chapter,
for help dealing with networks that have the SSID broadcast feature
turned off.
Figure 7-11. Open the Properties window for a wireless network you’ve saved to change
the connection options or modify the encryption passphrase/key
Broadcasting (non-hidden) network won’t show up. If you’re mixing old
and new equipment, make sure none of it is set to work only with its
own kind. For instance, many 802.11g routers have a setting that either
permits them to talk to older 802.11b devices, or restricts them so only
g-class devices can connect. If this is the case, make sure your router
and all your devices are set to work with the widest range of standards.
Also, make sure both your router and your other equipment are communicating on the same channel (channel 6, 2.437 Ghz, is the typical
default).
Windows tries to connect to the neighbor’s network first. Open the Manage Wireless Networks window and delete the entry for your neighbor’s
network if it’s there. Next, double-click the entry for your own network
to show the Properties window, turn on the Connect automatically
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when this network is in range option and turn off the Connect to a
more preferred network if available option (unless it’s grayed out).
Click OK, and then drag your network to the top of the list (or use the
Move up button just above the list).
Now, if your network isn’t in this list, then you haven’t set it up yet.
Close the Manage Wireless Networks window, and then follow the
instructions in “Sniff Out WiFi Hotspots,” earlier in this chapter, to
connect to it, and be sure to use the Save this network option when
you’re done.
After disconnecting, Windows immediately tries to reconnect. Just click Disconnect again; Windows rarely does this more than two or three times. If
the problem persists, open the Manage Wireless Networks window and
delete the entry for this network.
A network called xxx already exists. You’ll see this error if you try to set
up a new wireless network with the same SSID as one already saved on
your PC. If you’ve already used the Manually connect to a wireless network option to set up your network, don’t go back to that if it doesn’t
connect. Instead, open the Manage Wireless Networks window and
double-click the network to modify that entry’s settings.
On the other hand, if you’re setting up a new network that coincidentally has the same SSID as a different wireless network you’ve set up previously, see the next topic.
Handle two networks with the same SSID. Windows distinguishes one network from another by its SSID; in other words, its name. Say you’ve
named your home network wirelessnetwork, and you’ve got it working.
Then, you take your PC to work and learn that the SSID there is also
called wirelessnetwork. When Windows sees wirelessnetwork, it tries to
connect with the encryption passphrase it already knows, and not surprisingly, fails.
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The best solution to this problem is to rename your home network to
something more unique, but this won’t help if both networks are
administrated by other people. In this case, you have to make some
changes. First, open the Manage Wireless Networks window, right-click
the network you have saved, and click Rename; this changes the name
of the network entry while leaving the SSID intact. Next, double-click
the saved network, turn off the Connect automatically when this network is in range option, and click OK. With that out of the way, you
should be able to connect to the new network by the same name and
save its encryption settings for next time.
If you frequently connect to different wireless networks, use
the Network and Sharing Center (shown in Figure 7-12 and
discussed in Chapter 8) to quickly switch between Public
and Private modes.
Windows loses its wireless connection when the phone rings. If you’re using
a cordless telephone, it’s likely the older 2.4 Ghz variety. 802.11b/g/n
wireless networks operate on the same frequency, so move the cordless
base station away from the router. For best results, replace your old
phone with a new WiFi-friendly 5.8 Ghz model.
Windows connects, but the Internet doesn’t work. If you seem to be getting a solid wireless connection, but you can’t load any web pages or
check your email, open the Network and Sharing Center, shown in
Figure 7-12. Now, this window is mostly a “home base” of sorts that
provides links to the other networking tools discussed in this chapter and
the sharing tools discussed in Chapter 8, but the Access line right in the
middle of the window is a quick way to diagnose this particular problem.
Figure 7-12. The Network and Sharing Center shows the status of your LAN connection,
your Internet connection, and your sharing options, and provides links to most of
Windows’ networking tools
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If it says Local and Internet on the Access line, then the problem is
likely not with Windows, but rather with your Internet connection.
Check your router status and restart your DSL/cable modem, if applicable. If you’re on a public network, you might need to sign in or pay a subscription fee for full Internet services, a fact that might be clear from the
first page your browser loads or perhaps suggested by the SSID. Of course,
if other PCs on the network have Internet access, then try restarting your
PC and temporarily disabling any firewall software that may be interfering.
But if you don’t see Local and Internet here, but rather Local only or
something similar, it means Windows wasn’t able to get a valid IP
address. This can happen if you’re connected to an ad-hoc network
(basically just another PC) instead of a true hotspot, but odds are that
you need to mess around with your PC’s TCP/IP settings as described in
“Troubleshoot Network Connections,” later in this chapter.
Everything works until you enable encryption. Open your router’s configuration page and determine the current firmware version, which is usually shown on the home page or the Status page. Then, visit your router
manufacturer’s web site and see whether there’s a newer firmware available; if so, download it and use your router’s firmware upgrade feature
to ensure you have the latest bugs and bug fixes. Likewise, make sure
you’re using the latest drivers for your wireless equipment on your PC.
If that doesn’t help, it’s likely that either your router or your wireless
adapter in your PC is not fully 802.11i-compliant. This means you’ll
have to downgrade your encryption to one of the weaker standards
explained in the “Choosing the Right Encryption Scheme: WEP, WPA,
or WPA2?” sidebar, earlier in this chapter, and try again.
Beyond SSIDs and encryption, a wireless connection is not much different
than a wired connection. See “Troubleshoot Network Connections,” later in
this chapter, for help fine-tuning TCP/IP addresses, a particularly useful tool
when you have a mix of different computers and devices on your network.
You’ve got encryption. You’ve got a hidden SSID. You’ve set up a password
on all your shared folders (see Chapter 8). You’re probably thinking that
your biggest problem is that nobody seems capable of remembering any of
their passwords, but it may be quite the opposite.
All of these security schemes rely on preshared information: anyone with your
WPA2 passphrase, your SSID, and your Windows password can connect to
your wireless network and possibly even read the files on your hard disk.
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Lock Out Unauthorized PCs
The system is built upon secrecy, and all it takes is a breach of that secrecy
for the whole system to break down.
For example, say you’ve got a small business with 20 employees, and someone gets fired. Or, perhaps you live in an apartment building with shared
wireless, and someone moves out. Either way, the person who has left the
system may still have the wireless passphrase (and, in the case of the small
business, a common Windows password), and may still be able to get into
your network.
What do you do? For one, you can change the password and then have
everyone remaining on the network update their PCs and try to remember
the new password. But the ex-employee might sneak a peek at the new password when he comes back to clean out his desk. Or, that ex-tenant might
have a friend who still lives in the building and is willing to share the new
password. In short, a network that relies only on passwords to keep out
intruders is still vulnerable.
The solution for home networks and small businesses—any outfit without
the means to install an authentication server typically available only to large
companies—is to use MAC address filtering.
A MAC (Media Access Control) address is a (more or less) unique ID for each
network adapter on your PC, or—from the point of view of your router—a
unique ID for each connection on your network. You can configure your router
to allow only specific MAC addresses to connect to your network, and in so
doing, turn away anyone else whether he or she knows your WPA2 passphrase
or not.
A typical Wireless MAC Filter page is shown in Figure 7-13. Here, turn on
the Permit only PCs listed to access the wireless network option, and then
type or paste the MAC address of your PCs’ wireless adapters into the
boxes. Click Save Settings when you’re done.
To get your PC’s MAC address—which has nothing to do with Macintosh
computers, by the way—open the Network and Sharing Center in Control
Panel, and then click the View status link next to the Connection area in the
middle of the window. Finally, click the Details button to show the Network Connection Details window shown in Figure 7-14; the six-segment
Physical Address is the MAC address for this adapter.
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Figure 7-13. Use your router’s wireless MAC address filtering to keep out unauthorized PCs
To show the MAC addresses for all the network adapters on
your PC at once, open a Command Prompt window and
type ipconfig /all. Or, for a more abbreviated view, type
getmac at the prompt. (Note that only the MAC address of
your wireless adapter matters here.)
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You’ll need to enter the MAC address of each and every PC that connects to
your network wirelessly; leave one off, and it won’t be able to connect (and
the person using the PC won’t know why). Don’t worry about any PCs connected to your network with cables; they won’t be affected.
Figure 7-14. The MAC address of your wireless adapter is the “Physical Address” listed
in the Network Connection Details window
Now, MAC address filtering is a useful solution, but it’s not foolproof. For
one, anyone with access to your router setup page can make changes to
the approved list, so you’ll want to change your router’s administrative
password if you haven’t done so already; you’re asking for trouble if you
leave the default password in place (e.g., “admin” for Linksys routers).
Next, turn off your router’s Remote Administration option to ensure that
only those connected to your private network have access. Finally, consider
the potential weakness in MAC address filtering explained in the upcoming
“Why MAC Address Filtering Is Not Perfect” sidebar.
With MAC address filtering in place, all you have to do is create a new entry
for each new PC you want to allow to connect wirelessly. And of course,
you’ll need to remove entries for PCs you want to de-authorize. For this reason, it’s useful to keep a record of the MAC addresses of all the PCs on your
network in say, a text file, somewhere safe.
If you’re worried about others on your local network breaking into your PC
and reading your files, see “Turn Off Administrative Shares,” in Chapter 8,
for another backdoor you can close.
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Why MAC Address Filtering Is Not Perfect
MAC addresses—which are different for each device on your network—may
seem to be the perfect way to keep out intruders, but there’s a catch. Since you
can change the MAC address on most modern hardware, someone could theoretically connect to a filtered network by spoofing the MAC address.
This makes the MAC address somewhat like a password, right?
Not exactly. First, no two devices on a network can have the same MAC
address, so if your PC is connected, and someone else tries to break in by
spoofing your MAC address, the attempt will fail. Second, each PC has its
own MAC address and its own entry on your router’s MAC address filter
page; this means that an administrator can remove a compromised entry without affecting any other PCs. (This is in contrast to the single WPA-Personal
passphrase or WEP encryption key that everyone on the network shares.)
The real problem is that, like the hidden SSID dilemma explained earlier in
this chapter in “Sniff Out WiFi Hotspots,” a savvy intruder can use monitoring software to grab MAC addresses out of the air and use them to connect.
Think it’s difficult to change the MAC address? Think again. You can use
Mac Makeup, available for free from http://www.gorlani.com/publicprj/
macmakeup/macmakeup.asp, or MadMACs, free from http://www.irongeek.
com/i.php?page=security/madmacs-mac-spoofer, to change your wireless
adapter’s MAC address in a few moments.
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You can also change your MAC address—without any special software—by
editing the Registry. Open Registry Editor (Chapter 3) and expand the
branches to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\
{4D36E972-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}. Press Ctrl-F, type DriverDesc in
the box, and click Find Next. Press F3 to cycle through the subkeys here (e.g.,
0001, 0002, etc.) until you hit the one where the DriverDesc value matches the
name of your wireless adapter. Once you stumble upon the correct key, select
Edit ➝ New ➝ String Value, and name the value NetworkAddress. Doubleclick the new value, type the MAC address you want to use in the Value data
field (without any hyphens, like this: 040815162342), and click OK. To put the
new address into effect, use the Network Connections window to disable and
then re-enable your network adapter (or restart Windows).
Of course, there are plenty of legitimate reasons to change one’s MAC
address, such as troubleshooting or conflict management. Even your router
probably has a way to change its MAC address—via the MAC Address
Clone feature—to match your PC’s address so remote servers that have been
configured to permit access from your PC won’t reject your router.
All this means that there’s no such thing as an impentetrable wireless network.
If you really care about security, abandon wireless and stick with cables.
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Connect to a Public Wireless Network
The point of wireless networking is not necessarily to do away with a few
feet of cables, but to make a network do things it could never do before. For
instance, if you have a portable computer equipped with wireless, you
should be able to walk into any airport, coffee shop, hotel, or college dormitory and connect to the Internet in a matter of seconds. In more populated
areas, it’s not uncommon to walk down the street and have your pick of
WiFi networks. (See the sidebar “The Ethics of WiFi,” next, for an extra
consideration.)
The Ethics of WiFi
Once you get the technical details out of the way, the one remaining hurdle
when considering using someone else’s Internet connection is a question of
ethics. There are countless personal wireless networks around the globe and
most of them, you’ll find, are unsecured. This means that you can literally
walk down the street in a populated area and probably find a working wireless Internet connection before you reach the end of the block. Some will have
been left open intentionally, but most will be unsecured merely because their
owners don’t have the benefit of the “Set Up a Wireless Router” procedure
found earlier in this chapter.
Now, just because you can connect to these networks, does it mean you
should? Are you taking advantage of someone else’s ignorance by breaking
into his private network, or are you simply making use of a public resource
that you’d be equally eager to share?
I’m not about to try to solve this dilemma in these short pages; I only wish to
raise the question, and to suggest that if you do ever decide to utilize someone
else’s wireless network, that you not do any harm. Think about your impact,
both on the bandwidth of the foreign network and the privacy of those who
operate it. And then tread lightly.
As described in “Sniff Out WiFi Hotspots,” earlier in this chapter, you can
connect to any unsecured wireless network that Vista’s built-in WiFi sniffer
is able to detect. (The exceptions, of course, are those networks requiring a
paid subscription or account access, but that’s a different story.) This
applies to networks you’ll encounter while you’re on the road, as well as
those that are in range of your home or office.
The problem is that by connecting to these networks, you’re exposing your
computer to the full array of viruses, hackers, and other dangers present on
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any network.* The solution is to take steps to protect your computer (or
workgroup), and the steps necessary depend on the scenario.
Scenario 1: Single-serving Internet
Say you’ve just sat yourself down at a sidewalk cafe and pulled out your laptop. (This scenario also applies to hotel rooms, airports, and coffee shops.)
You boot up Windows, open the “Connect to a network” window as
described previously in “Sniff Out WiFi Hotspots,” find a local network,
and connect for 20-or-so minutes to check your email. When you’re done,
you’ll likely never use this network again.
Now, if you typically use your laptop when connected to your own private
network, protected by your wireless router’s firewall, you’ll want to take
some extra steps to secure your PC before you connect elsewhere. Since you
won’t have your router with you on the road, and thus won’t have any dedicated firewall hardware, you’ll want to employ the built-in Windows Firewall software (or a third-party firewall solution), as described later in this
chapter. This will provide minimal protection, but certainly nothing you’d
want to live with for the long haul.
Scenario 2: The long haul
Say you just moved into an apartment complex (or have a small business in
an office building) that provides free wireless Internet. Naturally, you would
never want to connect your computer or workgroup to this wireless free-forall without some sort of reliable, long-term firewall protecting you from the
rest of the riff-raff. Now, since this is not your own, private Internet connection, you can’t just plug in a router to facilitate your firewall. But you can
add another device, a wireless bridge, in order to build an “island” of sorts,
in a sea otherwise filled with peril.
* This may be reason enough to keep strangers out of your own WiFi network; see “Set Up a Wireless Router,” earlier in this chapter, for help securing your network.
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A bridge connects two networks; in this case, you’re bridging the public network to your private, secure network, as shown in Figure 7-15. Between
them is the wireless bridge and your router (which protects your private network with its built-in firewall). The two dotted areas represent the scope of
the two different WiFi networks in effect: your own private, encrypted wireless network is shown on the left, and the public network is illustrated on
the right. (Your bridge and router actually form a tiny, third network, complete with its own IP space separate from those in either of the two wireless
networks.)
Figure 7-15. Use a wireless bridge in conjunction with a wireless router to protect your
workgroup when connecting to a public Internet connection
Here’s how you set it up:
1. Use the “Connect to a network” window as described earlier in “Sniff
Out WiFi Hotspots” to find the name (SSID) of the public wireless network to which you’d like to connect. Connect to the network temporarily to confirm that it actually works.
2. Obtain a wireless bridge, and follow the procedure laid out in its documentation to set it up with the public wireless network you want to use,
a process that typically involves plugging the bridge directly into your
PC with an Ethernet cable.
3. While the bridge is still connected to your PC, obtain the local IP address
of your bridge; it’ll be something like 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1. (You
won’t need the bridge’s remote IP address assigned to it by the public
network.)
4. When you’re done setting up the bridge, unplug it from your PC and
connect it directly to the WAN port of your wireless router. (This is the
port into which you’d normally plug a DSL or cable modem.)
5. Connect your PC to your router and use a web browser to open up your
router’s setup page, as described in “Set Up a Wireless Router,” earlier
in this chapter.
6. Configure your wireless router so that it has a Connection Type of
Static IP. (Refer to your router’s documentation for the specific details
on this and the next few settings.)
7. In the router setup, set the Gateway address to the IP address of your
bridge that you obtained in step 3.
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8. Then, still on the router setup page, set the static IP address of the Internet connection (as the router sees it) to a fictitious IP address in the
same subnet as your bridge. This means that the first three numbers of
both IP addresses should be the same, but the fourth should be different. That is, if your bridge’s address is 192.168.1.1, then you could set
the IP address of your Internet connection to something like 192.168.1.2
or 192.168.1.73.
Don’t confuse these addresses with the IP addresses used on
your private network. The local IP address of your bridge
and the IP address for your Internet connection that you
enter here form the tiny, third network mentioned at the
beginning of this section. Alternatively, you could set your
router to obtain its IP address automatically (back in step 6),
a strategy that may or may not work depending on how
cooperative your bridge is.
9. Finally, set the DNS server addresses in your router setup to the IP
addresses of your Internet Service Provider’s DNS servers.
If you don’t know which ISP is responsible for the public network you’re
trying to connect to, try connecting directly with your PC once more.
Open a web browser, type http://www.annoyances.org/ip in the address
bar, and press Enter; this will show the true IP address of your Internet
connection. Then, open a Command Prompt window and type nslookup
ip_address, where ip_address is the set of four numbers reported by
Annoyances.org. This gives you the name of your ISP, plus some extra
stuff. So, you might see something like dsl456.eastcoast.superisp.net,
which means your ISP is superisp.net. Then, it’s only a matter of visiting
the ISP’s web site (e.g., http://www.superisp.net/) and determining its DNS
server addresses from its online documentation.
10. Complete the setup of your router as explained in “Set Up a Wireless
Router,” earlier in this chapter, and make sure to enable wireless
encryption and any other security settings at your disposal.
Among other things, your bridge/router combination will serve as a
repeater (a.k.a. range extender), and should boost the signal strength and
might even improve performance over connecting your PCs directly to the
public network.
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This should do it. The bridge will funnel the public Internet connection into
your router, and your router will funnel it to the computers in your workgroup. The router acts like a firewall, provided that you connect all your
computers directly to your own, personal WiFi network, and not the public, unsecured one.
Add Wireless Support to Any Device
As soon as you have your wireless network up and running, you’ll probably
be inclined to do away with as many cables as you can. This feeling is normal; there’s no need to seek psychiatric help or psychic guidance.
Here’s how to add support for wireless networking to nearly any computer
or device:
Desktop computer
Add a wireless PCI card just as you would an Ethernet NIC (network
interface card). When shopping for a WiFi NIC, look for a card with an
adjustable, external antenna (versus merely a nub); and make sure to get
one certified for Windows Vista. Alternatively, you can use a USB-based
WiFi adapter and avoid having to take apart your PC; the downside is
that these tend to be less reliable than internal adapters.
Laptop computer
WiFi PC Cards have been available for some time, but if you have a
modern laptop, you most likely have a better choice. For about the same
price as the aforementioned PC Card, an internal Mini-PCI adapter will
typically offer better range (thanks to the internal antenna likely already
present in your laptop) without the clumsy protrusion of a PC Card.
(See the “Handheld PDA” entry, later in this section, for information on
using Bluetooth with your laptop.) Another solution is explained in the
upcoming “Quick and Dirty WiFi Piggyback” sidebar.
Printer
Although you can connect a printer to a WiFi-equipped PC and share it
with the rest of your network (as explained in Chapter 8), a better
choice is to connect your printer directly to your wireless network.
Among other things, this means you don’t have to connect any cables to
your laptop to print a document,* no specific PC must be turned on to
access the printer, and you have the option of placing the printer in a
more convenient location. To do this, you’ll need a wireless print server
that plugs into the back of your printer. Then, simply install the software that comes with your print server to create a virtual printer port on
your PC, to which your printer’s drivers connect and send documents.
(See Chapter 8 for a way to print to a network printer without installing
any special software.)
* A number of years ago, printer manufacturers started including infrared ports on some printers,
allowing laptops with infrared ports to print to them wirelessly. This was never much of a success,
which probably explains why it’s now nearly impossible to find a laptop (or printer, for that matter) with an infrared port.
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Quick and Dirty WiFi Piggyback
Say you and a partner are staying in a hotel, and each of you has a laptop. The
hotel, of course, charges for wireless, and you don’t feel like ponying up the
extra dough for two connections, nor do you feel like taking turns.
Or, perhaps a friend visits your home or office and wants to check her email
with her laptop. What if you don’t want to share your wireless encryption
passphrase with any passerby who asks for it? Or, what if the laptop doesn’t
have wireless?
Assume you have a sample wireless network like the one illustrated in Figures
7-3 or 7-4. You can, of course, plug any PC (provided that it has an Ethernet
port) directly into your wireless router with an ordinary category-5 patch
cable, and give it instant access to the Internet. But what if the router isn’t in
a convenient location?
Fortunately, any Windows PC can act as a gateway, funneling Internet access
to any computer to which it is physically connected, using Windows’ built-in
Internet Connection Sharing feature (discussed later in this chapter). All you
need to do is connect this new laptop directly to your own desktop or laptop
PC, and this typically requires only a single cable.
If the visitor’s laptop has an Ethernet port, and your PC has an unused Ethernet port (likely if you’re on a wireless network), just connect the two computers with a category-5 crossover cable, and you’ve got yourself something like
the wired network shown later in Figure 7-19. Just activate Internet Connection Sharing on your PC, and the guest PC will have Internet access.
You wouldn’t want to use this as a long-term solution, but it works well
enough for a quick email download, takes only a few minutes and a $4 cable,
and doesn’t compromise your network’s security (much).
DVR, video game console, or other media device
If your device has an Ethernet port, just add a wireless bridge (sometimes called a wireless game adapter) and cut the cords for good. Or, if
your device has a USB port for this purpose, you may be able to plug in
an off-the-shelf USB WiFi adapter if your device supports it.
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Wireless print servers tend to be a bit flaky. Since most printers don’t need to be portable, consider a wired print server
for more reliable printing. Just plug the device into your
router with an Ethernet cable, and then plug your printer
into the device.
Handheld PDA
As introduced in the beginning of this chapter, there are two prevailing
wireless technologies: WiFi and Bluetooth. While some handhelds come
with built-in WiFi, a larger percentage support Bluetooth (and only a select
few play for both teams). Although only WiFi-equipped handhelds can
connect to the WiFi networks discussed throughout this chapter, you’ll
need Bluetooth support if you want to connect to the Internet with your
Bluetooth-equipped cell phone. (The same goes for laptops; get an
inexpensive Bluetooth USB dongle to connect your Windows PC to your
cell phone wirelessly and surf the Web from the park or even the train!)
Now, some higher-end PDAs come with WiFi or Bluetooth support
built in, while others have special expansion cards that provide connectivity. You can get a WiFi SecureDigital (SD) card or a Bluetooth SD
card that will fit in many PalmOS and PocketPC handhelds, but if you
have only one SD slot, you’ll have to remove your memory card. If you
need the wireless support, you may prefer to replace your PDA with one
that has WiFi or Bluetooth (or both) built in, and do away with the
awkward protrusion of the expansion card.
Digital camera
Some high-end digital cameras now have WiFi options, allowing you to
send your photos to the hard disk in a nearby computer wirelessly,
either in batches or immediately after you take them. Unfortunately,
this only works in the studio (as opposed to outdoors), where you’d be
in range of your wireless router. At the time of this writing, there are no
wireless cards you can conveniently insert in place of your digital film,
but it shouldn’t be long.
Video camera (webcam)
Get a WiFi-enabled Internet video camera, and place it anywhere within
range of your network. Then, use your PC to view a live video feed wirelessly. Or, use it in its server mode, and let anyone in the world see how
much coffee is left in your coffee pot. (See Chapter 9 for a simple WSH
script that works with webcams.)
Home theater
Several companies sell WiFi music and video players that connect
directly to your stereo or TV. The better ones have HDMI plugs to support HD video, allowing you to play downloaded movies on your home
theater in all their glory.
There’s virtually no limit to the number of devices you can make wireless,
provided that they support some form of networking already. If all else fails,
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a wireless bridge, as illustrated in “Connect to a Public Wireless Network,”
earlier in this chapter, should allow you to connect just about anything to
your wireless network.
Get Bluetooth to Work
Bluetooth holds a lot of promise. For one, you can do things like connect
your laptop wirelessly to a Bluetooth GPS receiver for portable navigation,
or to your cell phone for cordless address-book synchronization. You can
use your Bluetooth cell phone as a portable wireless modem and surf the
Web on the go, or transfer photos you took with your cell phone to your PC
without touching a cable. There are even tiny remote-controlled toy cars—
like the Sony Ericcson CAR-100—that you can drive with your Bluetooth
phone (truly illustrating the noble role of technology in our lives).
The problem is that Bluetooth standards are poorly implemented in most
devices; don’t be surprised if you can’t exchange a simple address book entry
between your Bluetooth-capable PDA and your cell phone, even if they’re the
same brand. Even Vista’s built-in Bluetooth stack only works with certain
types of Bluetooth transceivers, and then only under a full moon.
Usually the biggest stumbling block is getting Vista to recognize and use the
Bluetooth transceiver in your PC. You can tell whether Vista is aware of—
and has loaded a proper driver for—your Bluetooth hardware if there’s a
Bluetooth Devices icon in your Control Panel (Classic View, please).
To determine the missing pieces on your PC, open Device Manager in Control Panel. If all is well, you’ll see a Bluetooth Radios category, under which
you’ll find an entry for your adapter and another for Microsoft Bluetooth
Enumerator. If you don’t see the Microsoft driver, or if your adapter appears
in the Unknown Devices category, you have three choices: hunt down a
native Vista driver, be content with your device’s proprietary software (if it
works), or discard your adapter and spend $20 on a newer one.
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Most PC-based Bluetooth adapters are either tiny cards wired inside some
laptops or lipstick-sized USB dongles that plug in to the back of your PC.
But just because the manufacturer of that adapter claims compatibility with
Vista doesn’t mean you’ll see the Bluetooth icon in Control Panel. The problem is that only some Bluetooth adapters use Microsoft’s Bluetooth stack,
the set of drivers and utilities that allows your programs to talk to your Bluetooth devices. Many adapters instead use either the Toshiba Bluetooth stack
or the Broadcom Bluetooth stack; good luck trying to find out which stack
your adapter uses simply by reading the packaging.
Don’t bother trying to brute-force install a driver right here
in Device Manager. If you manage to install the proper software, Device Manager will identify your Bluetooth adapter
and install the driver automatically. Otherwise, the best
you’ll get with a manually loaded driver is an icon in the
Bluetooth Radios category covered by a yellow exclamation
mark and the error “Device cannot start.” Before you try to
install one of the Bluetooth stacks listed here, unload any
drivers already on your PC by right-clicking the entry for
your Bluetooth radio in Device Manager and clicking Delete.
Inspect the software that comes with your Bluetooth adapter (even if it
won’t install on Vista), or check the manufacturer’s web site to find out
what kind of chip your adapter uses. If you have a Toshiba Bluetooth
adapter, you can get the Toshiba stack at:
http://aps.toshiba-tro.de/bluetooth/pages/toshiba/general-information-pcstack.html
Or, if you have an adapter that uses a Broadcom or Widcomm Bluetooth
chip, you can get the Broadcom stack at:
http://www.broadcom.com/products/bluetooth_update.php
or the Broadcom Vista update at:
http://update.broadcom.com/downloads/btwinitialupdate.exe
Once you get that Bluetooth Devices icon to appear in Control Panel, go
ahead and click it (or run bthprops.cpl) to open the Bluetooth Devices window shown in Figure 7-16. There’s a lot of stuff here, but for the most part,
only two of the tabs are useful when connecting to other devices: Devices
and COM Ports.
The Devices tab lists your phone, PDA, GPS, and any other Bluetoothdevices you’ve already paired with your PC. (Use the Hardware tab to list
your PC’s internal Bluetooth radio.) It won’t show all the Bluetooth devices
in range, like the “Connect to a network” window discussed elsewhere in
this chapter. Rather, click Add and then turn on the My device is set up and
ready to be found option. Make your device “discoverable,” and then click
Next here to find it.
Most PC software communicates over Bluetooth airwaves via virtual COM
ports that Windows opens on your PC (just like the ones you plugged your
mouse into in the 1980s, except invisible). Click the COM Ports tab to see
which ports have been claimed by the devices listed in the Devices tab; any
software you use to talk to your Bluetooth device will either autodetect this
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Figure 7-16. The elusive Bluetooth Devices window makes an appearance in Control
Panel only if you’ve installed native Vista drivers for your Bluetooth radio
information or ask you to specify the COM port to use. If you don’t see at
least one COM port associated with your device, return to the Devices tab,
highlight the device in question, click Properties, and choose the Services
tab to see what the device is capable of.
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There’s no Edit or Properties button on the COM ports
page, so you’ll need to open Device Manager if you want to
change any settings. In Device Manager, expand the Ports
(COM & LPT) category, and then double-click a Standard
Serial over Bluetooth link entry and select the Port Settings
tab to configure it.
You’ll notice there’s no Connect or Disconnect button anywhere in the
Bluetooth Devices window. While the absence of these features can be
inconvenient, they’re not strictly needed because Windows connects automatically whenever an application tries to use one of those virtual COM ports.
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To disconnect, just turn off the other device, or (if your PC has one), turn off
your PC’s wireless radio switch.
If you have trouble getting your software to talk to your Bluetooth device,
make sure it’s using the same COM port identified in the Bluetooth Devices
window. If it doesn’t ask for a COM port, check the software publisher’s
web site for an update or see whether an additional driver is needed.
Finally, don’t be afraid to try a different software product, which can be
helpful in determining whether the problem lies with your device, with
Microsoft’s Bluetooth stack, or with the software you’re trying to use. One
nifty little program is called MeHere (free from http://mehere.glenmurphy.com/),
which uses your Bluetooth GPS to navigate a live Google Maps window, and
guess what...it works with Vista!
Troubleshoot Network Connections
Whether you’re connected wirelessly or with a cable, Vista needs certain
details to be squared away, or nothing will work right. With that in mind,
you should get to know the Network Connections window shown in
Figure 7-17.
Figure 7-17. Use Network Connections to manage the hardware that connects your PC
to your network
In versions of Windows before Vista, the Network Connections window was
the central interface for all network settings. With the introduction of the
Network and Sharing Center—from which you can open Network Connections by clicking the Manage network connections link—this is no longer
entirely true. But it’s still the best way to fine-tune your TCP/IP settings and
fix many networking problems. If you haven’t done so already, open the
Views drop-down and select Details to show the pertinent information.
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Here you’ll see the status of all your network adapters—both wireless and
wired—at a glance. The Status column tells you which connections, if any,
are connected, albeit with some inconsistencies. Wireless and Bluetooth
adapters that are not in use say Not connected, but Ethernet (wired) adapters say Network cable unplugged. In either case, any adapter currently in
use (connected) is marked only with Vista’s current network name.
Don’t let the network name throw you. It’s not the SSID of
the wireless network you’re using (see “Sniff Out WiFi
Hotspots,” earlier in this chapter), nor is it the workgroup
name used for sharing folders and printers (explained in
Chapter 8), nor does it have anything to do with your Internet connection. Rather, it’s a name you can enter by clicking
the Customize link in the Network and Sharing center, used
to make it easy to switch between public and private networks. See Chapter 8 for details.
Also important is the Connectivity column, which shows exactly what each
adapter is providing (e.g., Access to Local and Internet).
But the main reason to use this window is to change TCP/IP settings. Rightclick the connection you’re using and select Properties. Then, select Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4) from the list and click the Properties
button to open the Properties window shown in Figure 7-18.
In most cases, selecting the Obtain an IP address automatically and Obtain
DNS server address automatically options will suffice. This works because
your router, if you have one, automatically assigns a unique IP address to
each new PC it sees using Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol (DHCP).
But sometimes DHCP doesn’t cooperate as well as it should; either a PC is
given the wrong IP address or no address at all. Or, for a variety of reasons
(such as enabling remote control, discussed later in this chapter), you need a
PC to always have the same IP address. To do this, you need to pull your PC
out of the DHCP arena and assign it a static (nonchanging) IP address:
2. Open the Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4) Properties window as
described at the beginning of this section, and select Use the following
IP address.
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1. If you have a router, open its configuration page in a web browser (usually http://192.168.1.1 or http://192.168.0.1), and navigate to the DHCP
client table. This shows all the PCs connected to your network (both
wired and wireless) controlled by DHCP, along with their dynamically
assigned IP addresses. (In most cases, PCs with static addresses will be
absent from this list.)
Figure 7-18. You may have to manually configure TCP/IP properties to get your PC
noticed on your network
3. For the IP address, type the address you want to use (e.g., 192.168.1.107).
Often, networks don’t work because Windows and your
router are unable to negotiate the correct addresses automatically. The first three numbers in each PC’s IP address (e.g.,
192.168.1.xxx) must exactly match the first three numbers
in the IP address of your router—usually 192.168.1.1 or
192.168.0.1—which you can get from your router’s documentation. The last number (e.g., 100, 101, 102) must be
different for each PC.
4. For the Subnet mask, type 255.255.255.0.
5. For the Default gateway, type the IP address of your router (usually
192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1).
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6. For the Preferred DNS server and the Alternate DNS server, type the IP
addresses of your ISP’s primary and secondary DNS servers, respectively.
If you don’t know the DNS addresses, contact your ISP. If you’re on a
public network or you’re using a friend’s ISP, open a web browser, type
http://www.annoyances.org/ip in the address bar, and press Enter to show
the true IP address of your Internet connection. Then, open a Command
Prompt window and type nslookup ip_address, where ip_address is the
set of four numbers reported by Annoyances.org. This should give you
the name of your ISP, plus some extra stuff. So, you might see something like dsl456.eastcoast.superisp.net, which means your ISP is
superisp.net. Then, it’s only a matter of visiting the ISP’s web site (e.g.,
http://www.superisp.net/) and determining its DNS server addresses from
its online documentation.
7. Click OK in both boxes when you’re done.
These static IP numbers, provided you’ve typed them correctly, will help
ensure that all the PCs on your network can communicate reliably with one
another. You don’t have to set static IP addresses on all the PCs on your network, but it may help settle a cranky network, particularly one with computers running several different operating systems (Linux, Mac OS X, older
versions of Windows, etc.).
Return to the Network Connections window when you’re done, and look at
the Status column entry for the connection you’ve just modified. If it says
Acquiring network address, it means Windows is in the process of establishing a connection; if you see this for more than, say, 10 seconds, you’ve probably done something wrong. If the status is Limited or no connectivity, it
means that a connection has been established, but your IP address is incorrect.
If, at this point, your network appears to be functioning, you can proceed to set
up the various services you need, such as file and printer sharing (described in
Chapter 8) and Internet Connection Sharing (described later in this chapter).
Otherwise, look through the following checklist for possible solutions:
Bad cables?
Make sure the green light is on next to each cable you’ve plugged in. If
not, try replacing one or more of the cables, especially if they’re old or
their connectors are worn.
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Restart
Heed the advice at the beginning of Chapter 6: restarting your computer will fix 99% of all problems. This is never truer than when diagnosing a networking problem.
Blinkenlights
When you transfer data across a network connection, each network card
and the hub (if you have one) should have an “activity” light that flashes.
Some devices have separate lights for receiving and transmitting data,
while others have only a single light for all incoming and outgoing communication. Activity lights tend to flash intermittently and irregularly; if
they flash regularly, it could be a sign of a problem with one of the
devices.
No dupes
Make sure no two computers on your network are attempting to use the
same IP address or computer name (set in Control Panel ➝ System ➝
Advanced system settings ➝ Computer Name tab, and discussed in
Chapter 8).
Drivers
Make sure you have the latest drivers for each network adapter on your
PC, and remove any proprietary network software that may have come
with your network hardware.
Firmware
Nearly all network hardware (adapters, routers, print servers, etc.) has
user-upgradable firmware. Check the manufacturer’s web site for the
latest firmware if you’re experiencing any network problems.
Device Manager
Some problems are caused by improper hardware settings, usually attributed to the network adapter itself. Open Device Manager and double-click
the icon for your troublesome adapter (or right-click it in the Network
Connections window, select Properties, and then click Configure).
Choose the Advanced tab, and thumb through the Property list on the
left, looking for possible problems. If you don’t understand a particular
setting, look it up in the documentation or on Google.
Can’t “see” another PC
This is a nasty problem, one with several different causes and often no
clear-cut solution. First, open the Services window (services.msc), find
the Computer Browser service, and make sure its Status is Started and
its Startup Type is Automatic (if it isn’t, double-click the service to
change its settings). Next, try the Ping utility, described in “Test an IP
Address,” to determine whether your PC can actually see another PC on
your network. If the Ping test fails, try pinging your router (if you have
one) from each computer to see which PC’s connection isn’t working. If
Ping is successful, proceed to Chapter 8 for help with file sharing.
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Add new network connections
You may have noticed that there’s no obvious way to add a new connection
to the Network Connections window. By default, the Network Connections
window only shows your installed hardware, which means you can add a
new network adapter, and it will show up in this list.
But the Network Connections window also supports virtual connections,
such as dial-up (analog modem) connections and broadband (PPPoE) connections. To add one of these, open the Network and Sharing Center and click
the Set up a connection or network link, as described in “Internet Me,” later
in this chapter. Of course, you’ll have to return to the Network Connections
window if you want to modify or delete one of these virtual connections.
If you ever use more than one network connection at once, see the next sidebar, “Prioritize Network Connections,” for a way to get the desired results.
Prioritize Network Connections
There’s a little-known setting you can play with that may solve problems if
you have more than one network adapter on your PC. Say you connect wirelessly at home most of the time, but when you transfer a lot of files from one
PC to another, you prefer to use a cable for greater speed.
Except in specific cases, Windows Vista will only use one network adapter at
a time. So, if you’re connected wirelessly and with a cable, you’ll want to
choose which connection Windows prioritizes.
In the Network Connections window, press the Alt key to temporarily show
the menu, and then from the Advanced menu, select Advanced Settings. Pick
the fastest connection, and use the up arrow to move it to the top of the list.
While you’re here, choose the Provider Order tab, and make sure the
Microsoft Windows Network entry appears at the top of the list.
Click OK when you’re done; the change will take effect immediately.
One surefire way to test a connection is to use the Ping utility, which essentially sends small packets of information to another computer on your network, and reports on its success (if any).
Open the Start menu, type cmd, and press Enter to open the Command
Prompt. At the prompt, type ping address, where address is the IP address of
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Test an IP Address
another computer or perhaps your router. For example, from the computer
at 192.168.1.102, you’d type:
ping 192.168.1.101
If the connection is working, the Ping transaction will be successful, and
you’ll get a result that looks like this:
Pinging 192.168.0.1 with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 192.168.0.1: bytes=32 time=24ms TTL=53
Reply from 192.168.0.1: bytes=32 time=16ms TTL=53
To be fair, this test only works if both connections are working, and if the
network is functional. If you get this result:
Pinging 192.168.0.1 with 32 bytes of data:
Request timed out.
Request timed out.
it means that Ping never got a response from the other computer. A failed
Ping can mean that the adapter on your local PC is misconfigured, or that
the target machine isn’t up and running.
You can also test your Internet connection by pinging a host outside your
local subnet, like this one:
ping 64.233.187.99
Now, if you get a reply from 64.233.187.99, but no reply when you ping a
host name, like this:
ping google.com
it means that your DNS nameservers—the machines at your ISP that translate host names to their IP addresses and back—are misconfigured or possibly down. In this case, follow the steps in “Troubleshoot Network
Connections,” earlier in this chapter, to enter the correct DNS addresses.
Internet Me
Connecting to the Web is much easier than it used to be, so much so that Windows basically takes this for granted. In fact, I’m going to make this really easy
for you: if you have broadband (typically via DSL or cable), and you’re not
using a router, get one right now and hook it up. Once you set up your router
(see “Set Up a Wireless Router,” earlier in this chapter), connect your Vista PC
to the router either wirelessly or with a cable, and you’re online. That’s it.
Now, if have broadband but you can’t use a router for some reason, or if
you’re (gasp) still using dial-up, then you need to configure Vista to connect
to the Internet for you. Of course, the procedure depends on the type of
connection you’re setting up:
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Broadband with a static IP address
Follow the steps in “Troubleshoot Network Connections,” earlier in
this chapter, to set up your Ethernet adapter to use your Internet connection’s static IP address.
Broadband with a username and password (PPPoE)
Point-to-Point Protocol over Ethernet (PPPoE) is used to establish temporary, dynamic-IP connections over high-speed Internet connections. If
your Internet connection has a dynamic IP address, it means your ISP
assigns you a different IP address every time you connect to the Internet.
The PPPoE protocol facilitates this connection by sending your username and password to your provider.
Never use the proprietary software provided by your ISP to
connect via PPPoE; use the procedure explained here instead
for best results.
To set up a PPPoE connection, follow these steps:
1. Open the Network and Sharing Center, and click the Set up a connection or network link on the left.
2. Select Connect to the Internet, and click Next.
3. Click Broadband (PPPoE).
4. Type the User name and Password provided by your ISP, and turn
on the Remember this password option.
5. Type a name for the connection (anything you like); click Connect.
Later on, if you need to connect manually or make changes to the connection, use the Network Connections window, as described in “Troubleshoot Network Connections,” earlier in this chapter.
Dial-up (analog modem) connection
Sure it’s obsolete, but it’s cheap, and if there’s no broadband around, it
may be your only choice. Here’s how to set it up:
2. Select Set up a dial-up connection, and click Next.
3. Type the Dial-up phone number and User name and Password provided by your ISP, and turn on the Remember this password option.
4. Type a name for the connection (anything you like), and click Create.
5. To connect, click the Manage network connections link, and then
double-click your new connection.
See the “Live with PPPoE” sidebar, next, for tips that also apply to dial-up
connections.
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1. Open the Network and Sharing Center and click the Set up a connection or network link on the left.
Live with PPPoE
PPPoE can be a pain on a day-to-day basis, mostly because Windows is responsible for the dialing. Here are some ways to make it a little more seamless:
Connect on demand. To have Windows connect automatically whenever
the connection is needed, open the Network Connections window,
right-click the connection icon and select Set as Default Connection.
Then, go to Control Panel ➝ Internet Options, choose the Connections
tab, and select the Always dial my default connection option.
Connect automatically. To have Windows connect automatically when you
first start your computer, drag the connection from the Network Connections window to your Startup folder.
Connect without asking. To skip the Connect dialog that asks for your username and password each time, open the Network Connections window,
right-click the connection, and select Properties (or click the Properties
in the Connect window itself). Choose the Options tab, turn off the
Prompt for name and password, certificate, etc. option, and click OK.
Share a PPPoE connection. If you’re using PPPoE in conjunction with Internet Connection Sharing, discussed later in this chapter, and you’ve
found that some web pages won’t load on the client computers, see “Fix
your shared Internet connection with a new MTU,” later in this chapter.
Of course, the best way to live with PPPoE is to get a router and let it handle
the connection. It’ll do a much better job than Windows will, plus it provides
a superb firewall and a very convenient means of sharing an Internet connection among several PCs.
Share an Internet Connection
When including an Internet connection, you have several choices. The oldschool approach, shown in Figure 7-19, involves a single computer connected
directly to the Internet (via broadband, dial-up, or whatever). That PC then
serves as a gateway (thanks to Internet Connection Sharing, discussed shortly)
and shares the Internet connection with the other computers on the LAN.
There are several downsides to Internet connection sharing. For one, it can
be temperamental and frustrating to set up. Performance and security leave
a lot to be desired, and it tends to be slow. Also, one computer (the gateway) must always be on for the others to have Internet access, and that computer must have two network adapters.
The preferred method is to use a wireless router, as shown in Figure 7-20.
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Figure 7-19. A simple workgroup with three computers, one of which has a shared
Internet connection
Figure 7-20. A wireless router not only makes it easy to share an Internet connection, it
offers better security and more flexibility than the old-school approach shown in Figure 7-19;
all of these computers, wired and wireless, have equal access to the Internet—note the
wireless print server
The router is a sole unit (the little box with two antennas in Figure 7-20)
that plays a whole bunch of valuable roles on your network:
• A switch, which connects all the PCs on your network to one another.
• A router, which bridges your local network to the Internet and provides
Internet access to all the computers on your LAN. Plus, if you’re using a
broadband connection that requires a username and password (e.g.,
PPPoE), the router will log in automatically for you, and keep you
logged in.
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• A wireless access point, which serves as a base station for your wireless
PCs and devices, and connects them to the rest of your network.
• A DHCP server, which automatically assigns IP addresses to computers in your local network (typically starting with 192.168.1.100, where
192.168.1.1 is the router itself), allowing them to coexist peacefully on
your network.
• A firewall, preventing any and all communication from the outside
world, except that which you specifically allow. (This is done through
your router’s port-forwarding feature.)
You’ll see routers discussed throughout this chapter. If you don’t yet have
one, do yourself a favor and pick one up. They’re cheap, and as shown here,
do quite a lot. Even if you only have a single PC (no local network to speak
of), the firewall feature of a router provides excellent security, and far better
protection than Windows’ built-in firewall.
Now, if you don’t have a router, the alternative is to use the Internet Connection Sharing (ICS) feature built into Windows, along with a bunch of
cables. To get ICS to work, you’ll need the following:
• At least two computers, each with an Ethernet adapter properly
installed and functioning. ICS can be used with both conventional and
wireless networks.
• One of the computers must have an Internet connection properly set up,
as described in “Internet Me,” earlier in this chapter.
• If you’re sharing a broadband (DSL or cable) connection, the PC with
the Internet connection must have two Ethernet cards installed. See
Figure 7-19, earlier, for a diagram of this setup.
If your Internet connection is accessed through a router or
you’ve allocated multiple IP addresses, you don’t need ICS.
The first step in setting up ICS is to configure the host, the computer with
the Internet connection that will be shared:
1. In the Network and Sharing Center, click the Manage network connections link. If you haven’t already done so, open the Views drop-down
and select Details.
2. Here, you should have at least two connections listed: one providing
your Internet, and the other providing access to your LAN. If they’re not
there, your network is not ready. (For clarity, rename the two connections
to “Internet Connection” and “Local Area Connection,” respectively.)
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3. Right-click the connection providing your Internet, and select Properties. This is either an Ethernet adapter plugged into your DSL or cable
modem, or, if you’re using PPPoE, your broadband connection.
4. This step is optional, but may be required if there are any PCs on your
network running Windows 98 or older versions: follow the steps in
“Troubleshoot Network Connections,” earlier in this chapter, to set the
IP address of the host to 192.168.0.1.
5. Choose the Sharing tab, and turn on the Allow other network users to
connect through this computer’s Internet connection option, as shown
in Figure 7-21.
6. Click OK when you’re done. Verify that Internet Connection Sharing is
enabled; it should say “Enabled, Shared” in the Status column of the
Network Connections window.
That’s it! The change will take effect immediately, and you won’t have to do
anything special on the client PCs. Verify that the Internet connection still
works on the host by attempting to open a web page, and then try it on each
of the clients.
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Figure 7-21. Any Internet connection can be shared with other computers in your
workgroup
Fix your shared Internet connection with a new MTU
There are some circumstances when a shared Internet connection doesn’t
quite work as it’s supposed to. The problem, where some web pages load
and some do not, affects client computers that access a shared Internet connection facilitated by PPPoE.
Although all web sites will be accessible on the host computer, certain web
sites will never load successfully from any of the client machines. If you
don’t know what “hosts” or “clients” are with regard to ICS, you’ll want to
review the previous section before you proceed. Also, see “Broadband with a
username and password (PPPoE),” earlier in this chapter for more information on PPPoE connections. Note that this applies to Windows’ built-in
PPPoE support, as well as PPPoE provided by third-party software and even
some routers.
The following solution is intended to fix this specific problem.
1. Sit down in front of one of your client machines, and type:
PING -f -l 1500 192.168.0.1
This assumes that 192.168.0.1 is the IP address of the host computer (or
router); substitute the correct address if it’s different. If you don’t know
the IP address of the host computer, open a Command Prompt window
(cmd.exe) on the host, and type ipconfig at the prompt. (If a router is
providing your Internet connection, consult the router documentation
for details on obtaining its IP address.)
2. You’ll probably get an error message indicating that it must be fragmented. (If not, then this solution doesn’t apply to you.) Next, type the
following:
ping -f -l 1492 192.168.0.1
If that results in the same error message, try this instead:
ping -f -l 1480 192.168.0.1
If you still get an error, try:
ping -f -l 1454 192.168.0.1
The numbers in each of these examples (1500, 1492, 1480, and 1454) are
values for the Maximum Transmission Unit (MTU). Continue issuing
this command with lower and lower MTU numbers until you get normal ping responses instead of an error message. The highest MTU value
that does not result in an error is the correct one for your network. It’s
not unheard of for an MTU as low as 576 to be required, although
Microsoft recommends no value less than 1,400 for Windows XP.
3. Once you’ve found an MTU that works for you, open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3) on the client machine.
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4. Expand the branches to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\
Services\Tcpip\Parameters\Interfaces.
There should be several subkeys under the Interfaces key; most likely,
you’ll find three. View each key’s contents, and find the one that corresponds to your primary network adapter; it will be the one with more
values than the other two, and will have an IP address value set to the IP
address of the machine.
5. Once you’ve found the correct subkey, create a new DWORD value in it
by selecting New and then DWORD Value from the Edit menu. Name
the value MTU.
6. Double-click the new value, choose the Decimal option, type the MTU
value you determined earlier in this procedure, and click OK.
7. Close the Registry Editor when you’re done; you’ll need to restart Windows for this change take effect.
8. Repeat steps 3–7 for each client machine on your network (but not the
host).
In most cases, this should solve the problem. However, on some systems,
you may need to set the MTU in another registry location as well. If you’ve
found that a lower MTU value is what you need, but the above procedure
didn’t work, try this as well:
1. Navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\
Ndiswan\Parameters\Protocols\0. If any keys in this Registry path aren’t
there, just create them by going to Edit ➝ New ➝ Key.
2. Once you’re in the key, create a new DWORD value called ProtocolType
and give it a Decimal value of 2048.
3. Then, create a new DWORD value called PPPProtocolType and give it a
Decimal value of 33.
4. Finally, create a new DWORD value called ProtocolMTU and give it a
Decimal value of the MTU you determined above.
Test Your Throughput
Throughput is the practical measurement of bandwidth: the quantity of data
you can transmit over a connection in a given period of time.
The simplest way to measure your throughput is to visit one of the many
bandwidth-measuring web sites, such as Broadbandreports.com (http://
www.dslreports.com/stest/) or Bandwidth Place (http://bandwidthplace.com/
speedtest/).
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5. Close the Registry Editor and restart your system when you’re done.
For the most accurate results, make sure you close all superfluous programs
before running the test. In addition to calculating your bandwidth and
reporting the results, these services typically ask for your zip code and connection type to compile statistics on typical connection speeds in your area.
The results should look something like Figure 7-22.
Figure 7-22. Use Broadband Reports’ speed test page to measure the speed of your
Internet connection
Now, according to the results in Figure 7-22, the download speed is a
respectable 1,267 Kbps, which means, in practical terms, that it should take
about 6.5 seconds to download a 1 MB file under ideal conditions.
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However, ideal conditions are rare; real-life transfers are often much slower,
due to overburdened servers and busy networks. Since your connection
speed (or lack thereof) is most noticeable during file downloads (compared
with web surfing or emailing), you can overcome some of these conditions
by using a download manager, as described later in this chapter.
So, what do you do if your connection seems too slow? First, close all open
windows, and turn off all background programs (such as the ones that show
up in the System Tray in the lower-right corner of the screen, near the
clock). Do the same for any other PCs using your Internet connection. Next,
examine the lights on your router or broadband modem; if they’re flashing,
it means that some program is still running on your PC, possibly consuming
bandwidth. This is a possible sign that a virus, worm, Trojan horse, or some
sort of spyware (covered in Chapter 6) has made its way onto your PC.
Of course, it’s also possible that you’re hitting the upper limit of your broadband connection. But whether or not an upgrade from your ISP is worth the
money depends on the bandwidth you’re getting now and the amount of
cash your ISP is demanding for the faster service. If your connection measures more than 1 Mbps (1,024 Kbps), it’s unlikely you’ll notice a huge difference in real-world speed with a faster connection unless you download a
lot of large files (such as music). On the other hand, more expensive connections sometimes offer substantially higher upload speeds, which may be
worth the added cost if you spend a lot of time sending files to web servers,
or even if you want to host a web site on your PC.
Do-it-yourself bandwidth test
One of the simplest ways to measure the throughput is to transfer a binary
file (such as a .jpg or .zip file) from your computer to another location and
then back again, recording the time it takes to complete the transfer each
way. Just divide the file size by the transfer time to get the throughput, typically in kilobytes or megabytes per second.
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When testing the speed between two PCs on your local network (for
instance, when comparing the speed of your wireless network with that of
cables), you might be inclined to drag and drop the files in Windows
Explorer, a process discussed at length in Chapter 8. Sure, it’s a good realworld test, but Windows—and Vista in particular—adds a lot of overhead
to this process, so it won’t be a true test of raw throughput. If you’re feeling
adventurous, try using FTP: just set up an FTP server on one PC, either
using Windows’ built-in IIS service or a third-party freeware alternative, and
then connect to that PC with a basic FTP client.
Do Download Accelerators Really Work?
There are a number of “download accelerator” software products available,
all of which promise to speed up the transfer of files downloaded to your
computer. As you might’ve guessed, none of them are actually capable of
increasing the bandwidth or throughput of your Internet connection.
Rather, they employ download managers that compensate for inefficiencies
in the download process.
These programs work by downloading a file in pieces, via multiple concurrent download streams (not unlike the TCP/IP protocol that powers the
transfer explained at the beginning of this chapter). While two concurrent
downloads would each be allotted half the bandwidth normally consumed
by a single download, this boundary only applies when your Internet connection is the bottleneck. In practice, download managers do use a larger
percentage of your available bandwidth, and as a result, do tend to shorten
download times, particularly for large files.
The problem is that any speed advantage you notice may be offset by the
annoying and cumbersome interfaces these programs add to the mix:
numerous dialog boxes and unnecessary prompts, not to mention bloated
manager applications that take too long to load before they even get started.
But in the end, the convenience afforded by some of these programs’ extra
features may make them worth the hassle.
Here are a few of the better download managers available, all free:
• Download Express (http://www.metaproducts.com)
• Free Download Manager (http://www.freedownloadmanager.org)
• Fresh Download (http://www.freshdevices.com)
Be aware that some download accelerators contain spyware
(see Chapter 6), so use caution when trying an unproven
product.
Of these tools, probably the slickest is Download Express, shown in
Figure 7-23. If you use Download Express, there are two changes you should
make. If you’re an Internet Explorer user, open Download Express, click
Advanced, and then choose the Integration tab. Turn on the Use alternative integration method option and click OK; you’ll need to exit and
relaunch Internet Explorer for the change to take effect. Or, if you’re a Firefox or SeaMonkey user, install the MetaProducts Integration extension,
available at http://metaproducts.com/.
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Figure 7-23. Download Express can speed up downloads without forcing you to fill out a
page of options every time
The real advantage of products like these is not so much in the speed
increase, but in the perks. Some programs also can resume aborted downloads, find alternative servers from which to download your files, and schedule downloads for off-peak times.
Set Up Virtual Private Networking
Virtual Private Networking (VPN) is a system involving a workgroup of two
or more computers connected by an Internet connection rather than a physical cable. In theory, VPN provides the security and privacy of a closed environment, without the astronomical cost of a private wide-area network.
The technology used in VPN—either the Point-to-Point Tunneling Protocol
(PPTP) or the Layer Two Tunneling Protocol (L2TP)—allows you to create
a private “tunnel” across the Internet connection. With a VPN, you can
accomplish tasks previously available only over a LAN, such as file and
printer sharing, user authentication, and even networked games. Figure 7-24
illustrates a typical scenario with a tunnel connecting a single computer to a
remote workgroup.
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Need privacy on a public wireless network? Set up a VPN to
transfer data between PCs securely. For another way to get
privacy on a public network, see “Connect to a Public Wireless Network,” earlier in this chapter.
Figure 7-24. Form a virtual private workgroup through a tunnel across the Internet
Before you can set up VPN, you need a tunnel server. If you’re connecting to
a large company, the VPN administrator will provide the necessary settings
(and software, if necessary) to establish a connection. Otherwise, you can
use a Vista PC as a tunnel server by following these instructions.
Part 1: Set up the tunnel server
Although there’s no mention of it in Vista’s Help and Support, Windows
Vista can indeed serve as a VPN server; you don’t need any extra software.
Here’s how you do it:
1. Open the Network and Sharing Center, and click the Manage network
connections link on the left.
2. Press the Alt key to show the menu, and then select File ➝ New Incoming Connection.
3. On the “Who may connect to this computer?” page shown in
Figure 7-25, place a checkmark next to each user account you wish to
use as a login for VPN clients. Unless you’re using this VPN connection
yourself, you’ll probably want to click Add someone to create a separate user account for others to use (otherwise, you’ll have to share your
own username and password with those who will be connecting). Click
Next when you’re done.
4. On the next page, turn on the Through the Internet option, and then
click Next.
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Figure 7-25. This page lets you choose who can connect to your PC and join your network
over a secure VPN connection; click “Add someone” to create a new account on the fly
5. On the next page, highlight Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4) and
click Properties. Turn on the Allow callers to access my local area network option, and then specify how you’d like to assign IP addresses to
incoming connections; you can optionally assign a range of addresses here.
Click OK and then Next when you’re done, and then click Allow access
to complete the wizard.
Next, set up at least one other PC as a VPN client to connect the two.
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6. If you’re using a router on the server end, you’ll need to set up Port Forwarding to route VPN traffic to the IP address for your tunnel server.
VPN over PPTP uses port 1723, and IPSec uses 500, 50, and 51. See
“Control Your PC Remotely,” later in this chapter, for details, and see
Appendix B for more information on TCP/IP Ports.
Part 2: Set up the VPN client
Although there only needs to be one VPN tunnel server, you can have as
many clients as you like (that is, until you reach the limit specified in the
tunnel server’s configuration). Here’s how to connect a Windows Vista PC
to an existing VPN network:
1. Open the Network and Sharing Center, and click the Set up a connection or network link on the left.
2. Select Connect to a workplace (you may have to scroll through the list
to see it), and then click Next.
3. Click Use my Internet connection (VPN).
4. In the Internet address field, type the IP address (157.54.0.1) or the
host name (sally.mydomain.net).
5. Next, choose a name for the new connection (it can be anything you
want), type it into the Destination name field, and click Next.
6. On the next page, type your user name and password on the tunnel
server; this is either the login for a valid Windows user account on that
PC, or a login provided by the tunnel server’s administrator (if it’s not
you).
7. Turn on the Remember this password option, and click Connect (or
Create, if you opted not to connect on the last page).
As soon as you’re connected, you should have access to the
additional resources shared on the remote network; see
Chapter 8 for details on accessing shared folders and printers. Later on, you can connect by double-clicking the VPN
connection in the Network Connections window.
8. If you connect to the Internet through a router, you’ll most likely need
to turn on the IPSec option in your router’s setup to get VPN to work.
See “Set Up a Wireless Router,” earlier in this chapter, or refer to your
router’s documentation for details.
For additional tips on working with VPN connections, such as how to
bypass the Connect dialog, see the “Live with PPPoE” sidebar in the “Internet Me” section, earlier in this chapter.
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Control Your PC Remotely
A network is good for much more than simply transferring data. Although
Windows does let you transfer files to and from other computers in Windows Explorer (see Chapter 8), it’s a far cry from actually sitting in front of
the PC on the other end.
Enter the Remote Desktop feature, included with the Windows Vista Business and Ultimate editions (lesser editions can only use the feeble Remote
Assistance feature described later in this section). Remote Desktop lets you
view and interact with the desktop of a PC in a window, as though you were
sitting in front of it.
There are almost limitless uses to this technology; a few examples include:
• Do you travel frequently, yet prefer to use a desktop (non-portable)
computer at home? Rather than duplicating all your programs, documents, and settings on a second laptop, just use Remote Desktop to
connect to your home PC from the road, and access your applications
and data as though you’re sitting at your own desk.
• Do you need to access your work documents and programs while you’re
at home, or access your home documents and programs while you’re at
work? Use Remote Desktop together with VPN (see the previous section, “Set Up Virtual Private Networking”) to bridge the link and stop
worrying about carrying so much stuff back and forth to work every day.
• Are you the person whom family members and friends call with their
computer problems? Instead of spending hours on the phone, trying to
explain to them how to fix their computers, just connect with Remote
Desktop and fix the problem yourself in minutes.
• Do you administer several computers in different locations? Rather than
having to go to the other side of the building (or the other side of the
state) to access another employee’s PC, use Remote Desktop and get it
done in a fraction of the time.
* See Chapter 1 for information on setting up more than one operating system on a single PC.
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• Are you a software developer? If you need to test your software on different operating systems or platforms, it simply isn’t practical to use a
multiboot computer;* you’ll just spend all your time rebooting. Instead,
set up a second (or even third) computer with the necessary test environments, and then control them remotely right from your development machine.
Well, now that this chapter has descended into an advertisement for Remote
Desktop, here are some of the disadvantages. First of all, you’ll need a relatively fast connection to use any remote control software like Remote Desktop, since a lot of data is transferred to update the screen image. For example,
a direct Ethernet (LAN) connection will provide nearly instantaneous responsiveness, while a DSL or cable connection will be more sluggish.
Next, Remote Desktop isn’t included with Windows Vista Home (Basic or
Premium), and won’t work with Macs or Linux PCs, so you’ll need one of
the alternatives mentioned later. The good news is that you can control any
Windows XP or Windows 2000 PC with Remote Desktop.
Part 1: Enable the Remote Desktop server
Allowing others to connect to a computer with Remote Desktop is relatively
easy. Use these steps to set up your own PC, or read them over the phone if
you’re trying to connect to someone else’s PC:
1. Open Control Panel, go to System, and then click the Remote settings
link on the left side.
2. Vista offers two levels of access. If you know you’ll be using Windows
Vista to access this PC, select Allow connections only from computers
running Remote Desktop with Network Level Authentication. Or, if
you’ll need to access this PC from an older Windows XP or Windows
2000 machine, use the Allow connections from computers running any
version of Remote Desktop option.
Network Level Authentication (NLA) is also known as Terminal Services Client 6.0. To use NLA with Windows XP or
Windows Server 2003, install the update available at http://
support.microsoft.com/kb/925876.
3. By default, all active administrator-level users can connect to your PC
when Remote Desktop is enabled. If you wish to grant access to a lesser
user account, click Select Users. (See Chapter 8 for more information on
user accounts.)
4. Click OK when you’re done; the change will take effect immediately.
5. Next, if you’re using a router, you’ll have to set up your router’s port
forwarding feature to permit the incoming connection. (This step, of
course, is not necessary if you’re connecting from another PC on your
local network.)
6. To do this, you’ll first need to assign a static IP address to your PC, as
described in “Troubleshoot Network Connections,” earlier in this chapter.
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7. Next, open your router’s setup page as described in “Set Up a Wireless
Router,” and navigate to the “Port Range Forwarding” page, which
should look something like the one in Figure 7-26. Here, fill out the first
blank line as follows:
Application
This is just a description; type Remote Desktop here.
Start
Type 3389, the TCP port number used by Remote Desktop. (See
Appendix B for more information on TCP/IP Ports.)
End
Type 3389 here, too.
Protocol
Choose TCP.
IP Address
Enter the static IP address you chose for your PC.
Enable
Place a checkmark in this box to permit this service.
Click Save Settings when you’re done.
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Figure 7-26. To control a PC across an Internet connection, you’ll need to permit the
incoming signal by going to your router’s Port Range Forwarding page
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8. If you’re connecting to this PC from another PC on your network, all
you need is this PC’s computer name. In Control Panel, open System
and then click the Change settings link in the middle of the page; use
the name under Full computer name (not Computer description).
Or, to access this PC from another PC elsewhere on the Internet, you’ll
need the true IP address of this PC’s Internet connection. Just open a
web browser, navigate to http://annoyances.org/ip/, and record the number displayed.
Part 2: Connect to a remote computer
Once you’ve set up a machine to accept remote connections, follow these
steps on the client side to connect to that computer remotely:
1. Start Remote Desktop Connection (mstsc.exe).
2. The default Remote Desktop Connection dialog is very simple, with
only a single field. This typically will not be adequate, however, so click
Options to display the full dialog, shown in Figure 7-27.
3. If you’re connecting to another computer in your workgroup, type
the name of the computer in the Computer field, or, if you’re connecting to another computer on the Internet, type its IP address here.
Use the information you got in the final step of Part 1 earlier in this
section.
4. Next, type the User name and Password of a valid user account on the
remote computer. (The Domain field is only used if you’re connecting
to a computer in a Windows Server domain; leave it blank otherwise.)
5. The rest of the options in this dialog are optional. The settings in the
Display and Experience tabs deal with performance issues, and the Programs tab lets you start programs on the remote computer automatically when you connect. The Local Resources tab has similar options,
plus a Local devices section, which lets you share remote drives and
printers.
6. If you plan on reconnecting to the remote computer at a later time, click
Save As to create an .rdp file with all the information in this dialog. You
can subsequently double-click the file to initiate a connection, or rightclick and select Edit to change its settings.
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Figure 7-27. Use Remote Desktop Connection to initiate a connection to another
computer and view and interact with its desktop as though you’re sitting in front of it
If the remote PC you’re connecting to uses a dynamic IP
address, it won’t do much good to save the connection settings. See the upcoming Remote Desktop tips for workarounds
if you need to access this PC consistently.
8. Simply close the window or open the remote Start menu and select Disconnect to close the connection. Or, for better security and to relinquish
control to someone sitting at the remote PC, select Log Off instead.
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7. Click Connect to initiate a connection to the remote computer. If all is
well, a window will appear with an image of the desktop of the remote
computer. You can interact with this desktop by pointing, clicking, and
dragging, just as though you are sitting in front of it.
Tips for Remote Desktop
Here are some ways to improve your experience with Remote Desktop:
Shut down remotely. You’ll see in the remote Start menu that the Shut
down button is gone, with Disconnect in its place. This is obviously
done intentionally, since a shut-down computer will not accept remote
connections, but it does make it more difficult to actually shut down or
restart the remote PC. To shut down a remote computer, click an empty
area of the desktop and press Alt-F4. Or, open a Command Prompt
window and type:
shutdown -s -t 5
where 5 is the number of seconds to wait before shutting down; specify
0 here to shut down immediately.
Want an audience? When you connect to a remote PC, anyone currently
logged in to that computer will be unceremoniously logged out to make
way for your remote connection. This poses a problem if you wish to
use the remote PC while its owner watches. The Remote Assistance feature, described in the “Using Remote Assistance” sidebar, next, as well
as VNC, described below, both overcome this limitation.
Using Remote Assistance
The Remote Assistance feature is optional, but can make it easier for less experienced users to transmit the required information to the person who will be
accessing her computer remotely, including the IP address and user account.
On the PC to be controlled, open Control Panel, go to System, and then click
the Remote settings link on the left side. Turn on the Allow Remote Assistance invitations to be sent from this computer option, and then click the
Remote Assistance link in this window to open the Remote Assistance dialog
(or launch rcimlby -launchra).
Here, you have the option of using Windows Messenger (Microsoft Live/
Passport account required) or your default email program (set in Control
Panel ➝ Internet Options ➝ Programs tab) to send the invitation. When
asked to type a personal message, just leave it blank. You can also choose a
special password for the person connecting to your computer, which is useful
if you don’t want to give the remote user your normal password.
Since these “invitations” can be a security hazard, there are two safeguards in
place to automatically disable the feature after a specified amount of time. In
the Remote tab of the System Properties window, click Advanced to disable
the feature completely after a few days. Plus, when sending an invitation, you
can configure it only to expire an hour or two after being sent.
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Keep it windowed. While you can have your Remote Desktop session fill
your screen, it makes things simpler to have it in a window you move
around. To do this, set the resolution of the remote desktop lower than
the resolution of the local desktop. For example, if you’re using a computer with a display resolution of 1280 × 1024, use the Display tab of
the Remote Desktop Connection Properties window to set the remote
desktop to no more than 1024 × 768. (Note that this setting will have no
effect on the remote computer’s normal desktop size.)
Share files, too. As nice as it would be to drag files into (and out of) the
Remote Desktop window to transfer them, the Remote Desktop feature
doesn’t include any provision for it. Instead, you’ll need to use more traditional means of transferring files. If the remote computer is on your
own LAN, you can drag and drop files right in Windows Explorer, as
described in Chapter 8. Otherwise, if you’re connected to the remote
computer over the Internet, you’ll either need to set up VPN to mimic a
workgroup (described earlier in this chapter) in order to access that PC’s
shared folder, or use FTP.
Control Vista Home, Macs, Unix, etc. Remote Desktop Connection is not
your only choice when it comes to controlling a computer remotely.
Although there are several commercial alternatives available, one of the
best is a free program called VNC. There are actually several derivations
of VNC floating around the Web, but one of the best is TightVNC, available at http://www.tightvnc.com/. Among other things, VNC has the
advantage of a very small “viewer” executable that doesn’t even need to
be installed on the client PC, and there’s a version available for almost
every platform (even Palm OS). It also lets both the person sitting in
front of the PC and the person controlling it remotely view the desktop
and even interact simultaneously.
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Remote Desktop, when enabled, will remain enabled even if
the computer is restarted. But third-party programs must be
specially configured to start automatically with Windows in
case the computer crashes or the power goes out. VNC, for
instance, has an option to be started as a “service” (accessible in services.msc), which is much more reliable than a mere
icon in the Start menu’s Startup folder.
Punch through any firewall. If you run into a problem getting Remote
Desktop or VNC working through a firewall, proxy, or router, or you
simply need to get a connection up and running fast, try GoToMyPC
(http://www.gotomypc.com). It’s a web-based service that tends to work
when the others fail. Short sessions are free; longer sessions require a
paid subscription.
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Manage the Nameserver (DNS) Cache
As mentioned a few times elsewhere in this chapter, a nameserver (or DNS)
is a machine that translates IP addresses to domain names and back again.
For example, when you type http://www.oreilly.com into your web browser’s
address bar, Windows sends a request to your service provider’s nameserver,
and the nameserver responds with something like 209.204.146.22, and your
browser can contact the web server and download the requested page.
Each time such a DNS (Domain Naming System) lookup is performed, the
information is stored in the DNS cache so Windows doesn’t have to query
the nameserver every time you access a page on that site. The DNS cache is
emptied when you shut down Windows, which is why it can take a little
longer to find web sites just after you’ve booted up.
The following two solutions allow you to change the way Windows interacts with its DNS cache, and will affect all applications that access the Internet
(not just your web browser).
Part 1: Increase the size of the DNS cache
A larger DNS cache will mean fewer trips to the nameserver and faster overall performance:
1. Open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3).
2. Expand the branches to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\
Services\Dnscache\Parameters.
3. Add the following four DWORD values by going to Edit ➝ New ➝
DWORD Value. Then, enter the numeric values specified by doubleclicking and selecting the Decimal option:
• CacheHashTableBucketSize, set to 1
• CacheHashTableSize, set tot 384
• MaxCacheEntryTtlLimit, set to 64000
• MaxSOACacheEntryTtlLimit, set to 301
Remember, these are Decimal values (not Hexadecimal values).
4. Close the Registry Editor when you’re done. You’ll have to restart Windows for this change to take effect.
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Part 2: Add a permanent entry to the DNS cache
When you add a permanent entry to the DNS cache, it will always override
the information provided by the nameserver. Here are a few reasons why
you might want to do this:
It’s a quick and dirty workaround. If a nameserver gives the wrong address
for a domain or provides no information at all, you can still access the
domain if it’s listed as a permanent entry.
It puts a stopper in spyware. A permanent entry with intentionally incorrect information will block requests sent to the corresponding servers.
This can be an effective way to prevent some web sites from tracking
you, some “spyware” software from recording your personal information,
and even stop some pop-up ads when you visit web pages. A list of known
“tracking” hosts can be downloaded from http://www.accs-net.com/hosts/.
It improves lookup performance. If you frequently access a particular
server, and you know its IP address isn’t likely to change anytime soon,
you can add a permanent entry to eliminate the initial delay as Windows looks it up. For example, add an entry for your mail server to
decrease the time it takes to check for mail.
It’s a shortcut for the lazy. If you frequently access a remote server without a
domain name (rather than only by its IP address), you can configure a custom domain name, for your use only, to be used as a kind of “shortcut” to
the server.
Providing incorrect information here can prevent you from
accessing certain remote servers. Use care when modifying
the permanent DNS entry table.
Here’s how to create and modify the list of permanent DNS entries:
1. Open Explorer and navigate to the C:\Windows\System32\Drivers\etc
folder.
3. The hosts file is just a plain-text file; open it in your favorite text editor
(or Notepad).
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2. Look for a file called hosts (no filename extension). If it’s not there, create it by going to File ➝ New ➝ Text Document, and typing hosts for
the filename.
4. A standard entry looks like this:
207.46.230.218
www.microsoft.com
The first part is the IP address, and the second part (separated by a tab
or several spaces) is the domain name.
Keep in mind that variations like www.microsoft.com and microsoft.com
aren’t necessarily the same server, and represent different DNS entries.
You’ll need to add a separate hosts entry for each variation if you want
to access them all, like this:
207.46.230.218
207.46.230.218
www.microsoft.com
microsoft.com
Using this syntax, add an entry for each domain you wish to hardcode
into Windows’ DNS table. Note that these addresses affect your
machine only; other machines, such as those in your workgroup or others on the Internet, will not be affected.
5. You may also see some lines that begin with the # character. These are
comments, and they are ignored by Windows.
6. Save the hosts file when you’re done. The change should take effect
immediately.
Secure Your Networked PC
Security is a very real concern for any computer connected to a network or
the Internet. There are three main categories of security threats:
A deliberate, targeted attack through your Internet connection
Ironically, this is the type of attack most people fear, but realistically,
it’s the least likely to occur, at least where home and small-office networks are concerned. It’s possible for a so-called hacker to obtain access
to your computer, either through your Internet connection or from
another computer on your local network; it’s just not terribly likely that
such a hacker will bother.
Of course, the same is not true when it comes to wireless
networks. Since intruders have something obvious to gain—
namely, free Internet—and since wireless networks can be
easy to break into if they’re not secured properly, this is a
real concern. See “Set Up a Wireless Router,” earlier in this
chapter, for details. See also “Connect to a Public Wireless
Network” (earlier in this chapter as well) for ways to protect
your computer and your workgroup if you’re using someone
else’s Internet connection.
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An automated invasion by a virus, worm, Trojan horse, or robot
A virus is simply a computer program that is designed to duplicate itself
with the purpose of infecting as many computers as possible. If your
computer is infected by a virus, it may use your network connection to
infect other computers; likewise, if another computer on your network
is infected, your computer is vulnerable to infection. The same goes for
Internet connections, although the method of transport in this case is
typically an infected email message. (See Chapter 6 for complete coverage of viruses, worms, Trojan horses, and spyware.)
There also exist so-called robots, programs that are designed to scan
large groups of IP addresses, looking for vulnerabilities. The motive for
such a program can be anything from exploitation of credit card numbers or other sensitive information to the creation of a “zombie,” a PC
that has been hijacked for the purpose of distributing spam, viruses, or
extreme right-wing propaganda.
Finally, a Trojan horse is a program that works somewhat like a virus,
except that its specific purpose is to create vulnerabilities in your computer that can subsequently be exploited by a hacker or robot. For
example, a program might open a port on your computer (see
Appendix B) and then communicate with a remote system to announce
its presence.
A deliberate attack by a person sitting at your computer
A person who sits down at your computer can easily gain access to sensitive information, including your documents, email, and even various
passwords stored by your web browser. An intruder can be anyone,
from the jerk who has just stolen your laptop, to a coworker casually
walking by your unattended desk, to your eight-year-old niece. Naturally, it’s up to you to determine the actual likelihood of such a threat
and to take the appropriate measures (such as password-protecting your
screen saver, or hiding your keyboard in the closet). Several examples
are discussed in Chapter 8.
Close Vista’s Backdoors
Windows Vista includes several features that will enable you to implement a
reasonable level of security without purchasing additional software or hardware. Unfortunately, few of these features are in effect by default.
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Defending your computer (and your network) against these attacks essentially involves fixing the vulnerabilities they exploit.
The following steps will help you close some of these “backdoors”:
Sharing Wizard bad. One of the main reasons to set up a workgroup is to
share files and printers with other computers. But it’s wise to share only
those folders that need to be shared, and disable sharing for all others.
A feature called Simple File Sharing, which might allow anyone, anywhere, to access your personal files without your knowledge, is turned
on by default. In Control Panel, open Folder Options, choose the View
tab, and turn off the Use Sharing Wizard (Recommended) option. See
Chapter 8 for details on sharing resources and protecting your shared
resources.
UPnP bad. Another feature, called Universal Plug-and-Play (UPnP), can
open additional vulnerabilities on your system. UPnP could more aptly
be called Network Plug and Play, since it only deals with network
devices. UPnP is a collection of standards that allow such devices to
announce their presence to UPnP servers on your network, much in the
same way as your PnP sound card announces its presence to Windows
when you boot your system.
Windows supports UPnP out of the box, which, on the surface, sounds
like a good idea. However, UPnP is a service that most users don’t need,
and unless you specifically need to connect to a UPnP device on your
network, you should disable UPnP on your system immediately. Leaving a service like UPnP running unnecessarily exposes your system to
several security threats.
To disable UPnP, open the Services window (services.msc). Find the
SSDP Discovery Service in the list and double-click it. Click Stop to
stop the service and change the Startup type to Disabled to prevent it
from loading the next time Windows starts. Click OK and then do the
same for the UPnP Device Host. Close the Services window when
you’re done.
Remote Desktop good, but only when you need it. The Remote Desktop
feature, described in “Control Your PC Remotely,” earlier in this chapter, is enabled by default in the Windows Vista Business and Ultimate
editions. Unless you specifically need this feature, it should be disabled.
In Control Panel, open System and then click the Remote settings link
on the left. In the Remote tab of the System Properties window, turn off
the Allow Remote Assistance connections to this computer option, and
select the Don’t allow connections to this computer option, beneath it.
Passwords good. Make sure each and every user account on your system
has a unique password. Even though you may not be concerned about
security among users, unprotected accounts can be exploited by an
attack over a network. See Chapter 8 for details.
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Firewall good, sometimes. Set up a firewall, as described in the next section, to further protect your computer by strictly controlling network
traffic into and out of your computer.
Open ports bad. Finally, look for vulnerabilities in your system by scanning for open ports, as discussed later in this chapter.
The Security Center and the Firewall
The Windows Security Center, shown in Figure 7-28, is a central page in
Control Panel used to keep tabs on the Windows Firewall, Windows
Defender, User Account Control, and automatic updating. It also monitors
your antivirus software, but for purely political and marketing reasons, Windows Vista includes no antivirus functionality of its own.
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Figure 7-28. The Windows Security Center goes a long way to make Windows appear
safer
There are two problems with the Windows Security Center. First, its alerts
can be particularly repetitive and annoying (this is intentional). Second, it
doesn’t actually do that much to protect your PC (unfortunately, this is also
intentional).
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Above all, the Security Center is a monitoring tool. If it sees that a particular
feature is turned on (whether or not it’s doing its job), the Security Center is
happy, and you won’t see any options in that section. Otherwise, you’ll have
the option of fixing the “problem” by clicking a big, friendly button (e.g.,
Turn on now). Or, to stop monitoring a specific feature, click the Show me
my available options link.
Click the Change the way Security Center alerts me link to
the left to choose what happens when the Security Center
finds a problem. To effectively turn off the Windows Security Center (or more accurately, take away its only power),
click Don’t notify me and don’t display the icon here. Or, if
you feel that’s too severe, click Don’t notify me, but display
the icon; that way, you’ll know if there’s a problem, but
Security Center won’t interrupt you to tell you. See the “Disable the Security Center” sidebar, next, for another solution.
Disable the Security Center
If you find that the Security Center is hassling you with unnecessary scans and
warning messages, despite the fact that you’ve asked it not to, your only
resort may be to disable it completely. Here’s how to do it:
1. Open the Services window (services.msc).
2. Locate Security Center in the list, double-click it, and change the
Startup type to Disabled.
3. Click OK and close the Services window when you’re done.
Note that this doesn’t actually disable the firewall, antivirus, or automatic
update features you may have employed, only the “monitoring” effects of the
Windows Security Center.
Click the colored ribbons to expand or collapse each section:
Firewall
You can’t actually change any firewall settings here; click the Windows
Firewall link on the left to configure Windows’ built-in firewall feature,
discussed in the next section.
Automatic updating
The Automatic Updates feature is responsible for periodically contacting Microsoft to see whether new updates to Windows (and optionally,
other installed Microsoft products) are available. Open Windows
Update in Control Panel to change this setting.
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In its most automated mode (Microsoft’s recommended setting), Windows downloads and installs so-called “high priority” updates automatically. But a better option is Download updates but let me choose
whether to install them for a variety of reasons explained in “Patch
Windows with Windows Update” in Chapter 6.
Malware protection
This section actually monitors two areas: Virus protection, which is the
only feature not included with Windows Vista, and Spyware and other
malware protection, which is handled by Windows Defender (and
turned on by default). See Chapter 6 for effective ways to protect your
system against viruses, spyware, and the like.
The Security Center has been known to initiate virus scans
unnecessarily, including—for some users—every time Windows starts. Even if you already have Security Center-aware
antivirus software installed, you may wish to disable monitoring for this reason. Click the Show me my available
options link and then click I have an antivirus program that
I’ll monitor myself, and the antivirus status will change to
Not monitored.
Other security settings
This section also includes two entries: Internet security settings (despite
the name, these only apply to Internet Explorer; click the Internet
Options link on the left to change them) and User Account Control (see
Chapter 8).
Now, if you’re the forgetful type, it’s best to leave all of the alerts and warnings in the Windows Security Center intact. But if you’re annoyed by all the
messages, and have taken the time to secure your PC yourself, then you may
feel safe scaling back the Security Center’s reach.
Set Up the Windows Firewall
For the most part, you can leave Windows Firewall alone and never touch it.
Unlike the early firewall debacle that came with Windows XP, the one in
Vista is not booby-trapped to prevent file sharing or the Internet time feature.
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A firewall is a layer of protection that permits or denies network communication based on a predefined set of rules. These rules restrict communication so that only certain applications are permitted to use your network
connection. This effectively closes some backdoors to your computer that
otherwise might be exploited by hackers, certain types of viruses, and other
malicious applications.
In fact, it’s pretty unobtrusive, bothering you only if it detects a program it
hasn’t seen before.
The biggest problem with Windows Firewall is that it
doesn’t protect your PC nearly as much as people think it does,
nor does it offer the same kind of protection as a router or
hardware-based firewall. While it’s better than having no firewall, Windows Firewall can provide a false sense of security.
One of the main reasons a router is so effective is that it provides a layer of
abstraction between your network and the outside world. Consider a single
packet of incoming data: if your PC is connected directly to the source of the
threat (no router), all that packet has to do is sneak in through one of Windows Firewall’s many exceptions (explained later), and it’s home free. But
with a router, that incoming packet hits a wall once it reaches your network;
unless you enable the port forwarding feature described in “Control Your PC
Remotely,” earlier in this chapter, that packet will have nowhere to go.
To illustrate the another difference between the security offered by the Windows Firewall versus that afforded by a router, consider Figure 7-29. The
larger dotted rectangle shows what’s protected by your router’s firewall, and
the smaller rectangle shows what’s protected by Windows. In addition to
the larger scope of the router’s protection, it’s also much less likely to be
compromised than a software-based solution like the Windows Firewall.
Figure 7-29. The larger dotted box shows the scope of protection offered by a router; the
smaller box shows the scope of the Windows Firewall
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Now, assuming you’ve bought the previous argument, you might think that
more firewall is better—that using Windows Firewall along with a router
will protect your system better than a router alone. The problem with this
approach is that, again referring to Figure 7-29, Windows Firewall somewhat isolates your PC from the other computers in your workgroup. This
can be good, in that viruses and other spyware on other PCs on your network will have a harder time infecting your PC (a particularly useful feature
when you’re surfing on a public network), or it can be bad, in that the Windows Firewall can break features you use every day.
If you’re on the road, and not behind the protective veil of
your router’s firewall, you should always use Windows Firewall or some other software-based firewall to help protect
your PC from other PCs lurking on any public networks you
might use.
By default, Windows Firewall is enabled for all network connections on
your PC; you can turn it off or on in the main Windows Firewall page in
Control Panel. To turn it on or off for a specific network connection, open
the Windows Firewall Settings window, choose the Advanced tab, and
remove the checkmarks next to the connections you don’t want to protect.
Poke holes in the firewall
On a day-to-day basis, the Windows Firewall creates new rules on the fly as
it needs them. When it detects that a program it hasn’t seen before wants to
open a port, it’ll ask your permission. Whether you choose to grant or deny
the request, Windows Firewall makes a new rule, and that rule remains in
effect indefinitely, or until you change it.
If it turns out that Windows Firewall is to blame, all you need to do is create a new rule to permit your application to do what it needs to do.
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But there are times when the firewall blocks connections without asking,
mostly because of its default settings. If you suspect that Windows Firewall is
preventing an application from working, open the Windows Firewall window
in Control Panel, click the Turn Windows Firewall on or off link on the left,
select Off (Figure 7-30), and click OK. If the program starts working, then
Windows Firewall is the culprit; otherwise, the problem lies elsewhere.
Figure 7-30. Turn off Windows Firewall temporarily to see whether it is indeed causing
the problem
Don’t head to the Windows Firewall window in Control
Panel; that tool is extremely limited, in that it only lets you
create simple exceptions (rules) that either give a single application free reign, or open a port that any application can use
(never both at the same time). Instead, use the Windows
Firewall with Advanced Security tool, described next.
1. Open the Start menu, type wf.msc in the Search box and press Enter to
open the Windows Firewall with Advanced Security window, shown in
Figure 7-31.
2. Click the Inbound Rules category in the left pane, and then click New
Rule in the right pane to show the New Inbound Rule Wizard
(Figure 7-32).
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Figure 7-31. The secret Windows Firewall with Advanced Security window lets you finetune inbound rules, enable outbound rules, and even log firewall activity
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Figure 7-32. The New Inbound Rule Wizard gives you much more control than the feeble
Windows Firewall window in Control Panel
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3. For the Rule Type, choose one of the following:
Program
Use this to give a specific application free reign over your Internet
connection. This is the easiest way to fix an application that has been
broken by Windows Firewall’s restrictions, but it can be risky if
you’re not exactly sure how that application will use its new freedom.
Port
This option exposes a TCP/IP port (see Appendix B) that can be
used (read exploited) by any application.
Predefined
Choose this if you want to create a rule for a built-in Windows service. Note that this selection doesn’t start or stop the service, it only
instructs Windows Firewall to permit or block it; use the Services
window (services.msc) to enable or disable Windows services.
Custom
Use Custom if you want to make a rule that involves both a specific
application and a specific port simultaneously, something you can’t
do with the Windows Firewall window in Control Panel.
4. Click Next when you’re done; what happens next depends on the type
of rule you’re creating.
If you chose Program or Custom in step 3, the subsequent Program
step lets you associate the rule with all programs, or a specific .exe file.
If you chose Port or Custom in step 3, the subsequent Protocol and
Ports step asks you to specify a port number. Most of the time, you’ll
want to select TCP from the Protocol type list and Specific Ports from
the Local port list. Below Local port, type one or more port numbers
used by the connection to be governed by your new rule; see
Appendix B for more information on TCP/IP ports.
5. Next, the Scope step gives you the opportunity to fine-tune the rule by
providing the IP addresses of the PCs involved in the connection. The
local IP address (the top box) is basically your PC, so in most cases,
you’ll want to leave the Any IP address default selected. But below, you
can select These IP addresses and then add the addresses of specific
remote PCs; that way, you can be extra careful and, say, open a port
only when a trusted PC wants to connect.
6. The Action step is more or less self-explanatory. By default, Windows
Firewall blocks all inbound data except when a rule instructs it to let the
data through, so typically you’ll want to choose Allow the connection
here.
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7. The Profile step lets you choose when this rule is in effect; this is covered in more detail shortly.
8. Finally, use the Name and Description fields to label your new rule so
you can find it easily in the list later on.
9. Click Finish when you’re done.
The new exception will take effect immediately, at which point you can test
the new exception. You may have to experiment with different firewall rules
until your software or service works properly.
In most of the pages in the Windows Firewall with Advanced Security window, settings are divided into three “profiles,” used at different times depending on the type of network Windows thinks you’re using at the moment:
Private Profile
The settings in this profile are automatically put into effect when you
choose Home or Work when Windows asks you to select a network
location. This is typical of a home or small-office network, protected by
a router, and with folder and printer sharing (explained in Chapter 8).
Public Profile
This is the profile used when you choose Public location, such as when
you connect wirelessly to a public hotspot.
Domain Profile
This firewall profile is active when your PC is part of a corporate network with a domain controller.
By default, the general settings in each of these profiles is more or less the
same, but the inbound and outbound rules are typically different. To change
the settings shown on the summary page in Figure 7-31, click the Windows
Firewall Properties link, and choose the tab corresponding to the profile
you want to configure, as shown in Figure 7-33.
Click the Customize button in the Logging section to have Windows Firewall keep a log of data it blocks in a text file you choose. Although logging
enables you to see exactly what the firewall is doing behind the scenes, the
real value is in troubleshooting. For instance, if you know Windows Firewall
is interfering with a specific application, but you want to know exactly what
the application is trying to do before you grant it permission, check the log.
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Here, you can make a pretty substantive change: from the Outbound connections list, select Block to give Windows Firewall control over data flowing in both directions (rather than just inbound data). This option won’t
necessarily be trouble-free until you take the time to customize the outbound rules in the main window. But it can, for instance, let you contain a
virus outbreak on a PC without completely severing the network connection you may need in order to make repairs.
Figure 7-33. Click the Windows Firewall Properties link to choose whether or not to block
Inbound and Outbound connections, change notification options, and enable logging
Alternatives to Windows Firewall
Windows Firewall that comes with Vista is much better than the XP version, but it still may not provide the ease-of-use or flexibility of a third-party
program. Here are some alternative solutions:
• Agnitum Outpost (http://www.agnitum.com)
• Kerio Personal Firewall (http://www.kerio.com)
• Vista Firewall Control (http://www.sphinx-soft.com)
Be careful, however, when installing and configuring a
third-party firewall solution, including the ones discussed
here. Overly strict firewall rules may break some software
on your system. Worse yet, overly lenient rules may not
protect your computer adequately and only give you a
false sense of security. Check out the PC Flank Leaktest at
http://www.pcflank.com/ if you want to test your firewall.
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If all you need to do is block a specific program, you can use Windows
Defender. Just open Windows Defender in Control Panel, click the Tools
button at the top of the window, and then click the Software Explorer link.
From the Category list, choose Network Connected Programs, and then
select the application you want to block in the list (it must be currently running and making use of the connection). Then, click either End Process or
Block Incoming Connections, depending on what you want to do.
(Strangely, it won’t let you block Microsoft programs, but I suppose every
company is entitled to a little vanity.)
No matter which firewall solution you choose, however, you’ll most likely
still need to take the time to configure custom rules using a similar procedure to the one described earlier in this section.
Scan Your System for Open Ports
Each open network port on your computer is a potential security vulnerability, and Vista’s tendency to leave more ports open than it needs is a common cause for concern. Fortunately, there’s a way to scan your computer for
open ports so you know which holes to patch.
Start by opening a Command Prompt window (cmd.exe). Then, run the
Active Connections utility by typing:
netstat /a /o
The /a option tells netstat to show all open ports; without it, only ports participating in active connections would appear. And the /o option shows the
owning process of each port (explained shortly). The report will be displayed in the Command Prompt window, and will look something like this:
Active Connections
Local Address
annoy:pop3
annoy:3613
annoy:3613
annoy:3614
annoy:1035
annoy:1036
annoy:1037
annoy:1038
annoy:1039
Foreign Address
localhost:4219
javascript-of-unknown:0
localhost:3614
localhost:3613
*:*
*:*
*:*
*:*
*:*
State
TIME_WAIT
LISTENING
ESTABLISHED
ESTABLISHED
PID
0
1100
1100
1100
1588
1588
1588
1588
1588
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Proto
TCP
TCP
TCP
TCP
UDP
UDP
UDP
UDP
UDP
The width of the Command Prompt window is typically
limited to 80 characters, causing some pretty ugly wordwrapping. To send the report to a text file (say, report.txt) for
easier viewing, type netstat /a /o > report.txt at the prompt.
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The Active Connections utility displays its information in these five columns:
Proto
This will either be TCP or UDP, representing the protocol being used
(see Appendix B).
Local Address
This column has two components, separated by a colon. The first part is
the computer name, which will typically be the name of your computer.
The second part will either be a port number or the name of a service.
See Appendix B for help deciphering the port numbers that appear here
and in the Foreign Address column, detailed next.
Foreign Address
For active connections, this will be the name or IP address of the remote
machine, followed by a colon, and then the port number being used.
For inactive connections (showing only the open ports), you’ll typically
see only *:*.
State
This shows the state of the connection (TCP ports only). For example,
for server processes, you’ll usually see LISTENING here, signifying that the
process has opened the port and is waiting for an incoming connection.
For connections originating from your computer, such as a web browser
downloading a page or an active Telnet session, you’ll see ESTABLISHED
here.
PID
This is the Process Identifier of the application or service that is responsible for opening the port.
To find out more about a particular PID, open Task Manager (launch
taskmgr.exe or right-click an empty area of your taskbar and select Task
Manager), and choose the Processes tab. If you don’t see a column
labeled PID, go to View ➝ Select Columns, turn on the PID (Process
Identifier) option, and click OK. Finally, turn on the Show processes
from all users option at the bottom of the Windows Task Manager window. You can then sort the listing by PID by clicking the PID column
header. The corresponding program filename is shown in the Image Name
column.
If you have the Business or Ultimate edition of Vista, you have the added
luxury of being able to use the Reliability and Performance Monitor tool
(perfmon.exe, shown in Figure 7-34) to view a live list of applications
using your network connection, complete with the aforementioned PID,
bytes sent and received, and even the foreign address to which they’re
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connected. You can even sort by network usage and find the processes
most responsible for hogging your connection.
Figure 7-34. Click the Network section in the Reliability and Performance Monitor to
view a list of all the programs using your network connection
This means that you can use the Active Connections Utility in conjunction
with the Windows Task Manager, as described here, to look up the program responsible for opening any network port on your computer.
You may see svchost.exe listed in the Windows Task Manager, and reported
by the Active Connections utility as being responsible for one or more open
ports. This program is merely used to start the services listed in the Services
window (services.msc). For an example of a service Vista runs by default, but
shouldn’t for security reasons, see the discussion of Universal Plug-and-Play
in “Close Vista’s Backdoors,” earlier in this chapter.
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Don’t be alarmed if you see a lot of open ports. Just make
sure you track down each one, making sure it doesn’t pose a
security threat.
Use an external port scanner
If you’re using a firewall, such as the Windows Firewall feature built in to
Windows, it should block communication to most of the currently open
ports, even though they’re listed by the Active Connections utility.
For this reason, you may prefer to use an external port scanner, a program
that can connect to your computer through an Internet connection to check
for all open ports, and do it more aggressively than the Active Connections
utility. Here are some example utilities that you can run from your own
computer:
• Nmap Security Scanner (http://insecure.org/)
• AATools Port Scanner (http://www.glocksoft.com/port_scanner.htm)
Or, using one of these web sites will allow you to perform port scans right
from your web browser:
• PC Flank Advanced Port Scanner (http://www.pcflank.com)
• Open Ports Tool (http://www.yougetsignal.com/openPortsTool/)
Among other things, you can use these services to test the effectiveness of
your firewall. If a port scanner cannot detect any open ports, cannot determine your computer name, and cannot detect any running services, then
you’re in good shape!
Web and Email
The Web makes our world simultaneously bigger and smaller; it’s hard to
imagine computing—or even a meal—without a web browser within reach.
It’s also hard to forget everything that comes along for the ride, such as pop
ups, spam, and the constant reminders that “your privacy may be at risk.”
Lock Down Internet Explorer
Over the years, Microsoft has fixed dozens of security holes in Internet
Explorer, and if you’ve been using the Windows Update feature regularly,
you already have the latest and greatest fixes installed. But the larger issue is
IE’s underlying design—and its cozy connection with the underlying operating system—which permits any web site to install software on your PC. At
first, web site designers used this capability sparingly, mostly to install widgets and small helper programs to add trivial features to their pages. But it
didn’t take long for unscrupulous hackers and greedy corporate executives
to learn how to exploit Internet Explorer’s open nature, which is why we
now have spyware, adware, browser hijackers, pop ups, and other nasty
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surprises. Despite these problems, Microsoft has too much corporate strategy tied up in this design to change it now, which leaves you with two
choices: hobble Internet Explorer by turning off the most dangerous features, or use a different browser (or both).
If you want to stick with Internet Explorer for now, open Control Panel and
then Internet Options (or in IE, open the Tools drop-down and select Internet Options). Choose the Security tab, and turn on the Enable Protected
Mode option if it’s not already enabled. Then select the Internet “zone”
globe icon at the top, and then click Custom Level below to open the Security Settings dialog box shown in Figure 7-35.
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Figure 7-35. Use the Security Settings window to turn off some of the more dangerous
Internet Explorer features
Next, go down the list, and set the options as follows. (Note that your list
may differ slightly as the result of recent updates from Microsoft.)
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Option
Set to…
.NET Framework ➝ Loose XAML
Disable
.NET Framework ➝ XAML browser applications
Disable (!)
.NET Framework ➝ XPS documents
Disable
.NET Framework-related ➝ Run components not signed with Authenticode
Disable (!)
.NET Framework-related ➝ Run components signed with Authenticode
Disable
ActiveX controls ➝ Allow previously unused ActiveX controls to run...
Disable
ActiveX controls ➝ Allow scriptlets
Disable
ActiveX controls ➝ Automatic prompting for ActiveX controls
Disable
ActiveX controls ➝ Binary and script behaviors
Administrator
approved
ActiveX controls ➝ Display video and animation on a web page that does not use
external media player
Disable
ActiveX controls ➝ Download signed ActiveX controls
Disable (!)
ActiveX controls ➝ Download unsigned ActiveX controls
Disable (!)
ActiveX controls ➝ Initialize and script ActiveX controls not marked as safe
Disable (!)
ActiveX controls ➝ Run ActiveX controls and plug-ins
Administrator
approved
ActiveX controls ➝ Script ActiveX controls marked safe for scripting
Disable
Downloads ➝ Automatic prompting for file downloads
Disable
Downloads ➝ File download
Enable
Downloads ➝ Font download
Prompt
Enable .NET Framework setup
Disable
Java VM ➝ Java permissions
High safety
Miscellaneous ➝ Access data sources across domains
Disable
Miscellaneous ➝ Allow META REFRESH
Enable
Miscellaneous ➝ Allow scripting of Internet Explorer Web browser control
Disable
Miscellaneous ➝ Allow script-initiated windows without size or position constraints
Disable
Miscellaneous ➝ Allow Web pages to use restricted protocols for active content
Disable
Miscellaneous ➝ Allow web sites to open windows without address or status bars
Disable
Miscellaneous ➝ Display mixed content
Prompt
Miscellaneous ➝ Don’t prompt for client certificate selection...
Disable
Miscellaneous ➝ Drag and drop or copy and paste files
Enable
Miscellaneous ➝ Include Local directory path when uploading files to a server
Disable (!)
Miscellaneous ➝ Installation of desktop items
Disable (!)
Miscellaneous ➝ Launching applications and unsafe files
Disable (!)
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Option
Set to…
Miscellaneous ➝ Launching programs and files in an IFRAME
Disable
Miscellaneous ➝ Navigate sub-frames across different domains
Prompt
Miscellaneous ➝ Open files based on content, not file extension
Enable
Miscellaneous ➝ Software channel permissions
High safety
Miscellaneous ➝ Submit nonencrypted form data
Enable
Miscellaneous ➝ Use Phishing Filter
Enable (!)
Miscellaneous ➝ Use Pop-up Blocker
Enable (!)
Miscellaneous ➝ Userdata persistence
Enable
Miscellaneous ➝ Web sites in less privileged web content zone can navigate...
Enable
Scripting ➝ Active Scripting
Prompt
Scripting ➝ Allow Programmatic clipboard access
Disable (!)
Scripting ➝ Allow status bar updates via script
Disable
Scripting ➝ Allow web sites to prompt for information using scripted windows
Disable
Scripting ➝ Scripting of Java applets
Enable
User Authentication ➝ Logon
Anonymous logon
Click OK when you’re done changing security settings. Next, click the
Trusted sites (green checkmark) icon, click the Sites button, and turn off
the Require server verification (https:) for all sites in this zone option. Type
the following URLs into the Add this Web site to the zone field, clicking the
Add button after each one:
http://*.update.microsoft.com
https://*.update.microsoft.com
http://*.windowsupdate.com
http://*.windowsupdate.microsoft.com
Now that you see what’s required to make Internet Explorer safer (albeit not
bulletproof), you might be tempted to dump IE entirely in favor of a design
that doesn’t put your PC at risk. Mozilla Firefox, available for free from http://
www.mozilla.com/, is an open source, standards-compliant web browser
that is faster, much safer, and more feature-rich than Internet Explorer. It
does a better job of blocking pop ups, has a more customizable interface,
and can be enhanced with powerful extensions (see “Improve Any Web
Site” for an example). If you want to disable IE altogether, see the “Turn Off
Internet Explorer” sidebar, next.
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These four URLs permit the Windows Update feature to continue working
unencumbered by your new security settings. The asterisks are wildcards
allowing these rules to apply to variants, such as http://download.
windowsupdate.com. Feel free to add the domains for other web sites you
trust, and then click OK when you’re done.
Turn Off Internet Explorer
Thanks to a court settlement several years ago, you can completely block
Internet Explorer on your PC, a particularly effective tactic if you’re setting
up a PC for someone else and you don’t want to have to come back six
months later to cleanse it of spyware.
In Control Panel, open Default Programs, and then click the Set program
access and computer defaults link. In the window that appears, choose the
Custom option, and then click the little double-arrow icon on the right side
to expand the category. In the Choose a default Web browser section, make
sure your favorite web browser is selected, and then turn off the Enable
access to this program checkbox next to Internet Explorer.
When you’re done, click OK; the change will take effect immediately. The IE
icons will disappear, and you’ll get an error if you try to launch iexplore.exe.
Change Internet Shortcut Icons
If you’re a fan of desktop icons, you’ve probably grown accustomed to rightclicking a new shortcut, selecting Properties, and then clicking the Change
Icon button to choose a new icon for it. Pity this doesn’t work on Vista’s
Internet Shortcuts.
Not surprisingly, Microsoft likes its IE logo, and it doesn’t want you to
change it. Good thing we don’t care what Microsoft wants.
It turns out that this problem is the result of an intentional change introduced in Internet Explorer 7; while Microsoft insists that “this behavior is by
design,” it offers a hotfix update at http://support.microsoft.com/kb/935779
that does indeed fix the problem.
At the time of this writing, you can’t download this hotfix
directly from the Microsoft web site. Rather, Microsoft will
only let you have it if you pick up a telephone and call (the
U.S. number is 1-800-936-4900) to request that hotfix
935779 be sent to you via email. If you can’t get it that way,
you can also download it from http://annoyances.org/935779
until it has been made more easily available via the Windows Update service.
If Microsoft’s hotfix doesn’t solve the problem, try the following solution:
1. Open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3).
2. Expand the branches to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\InternetShortcut\ShellEx.
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3. Look for a subkey of ShellEx called IconHandler; if it’s not there, rightclick the ShellEx key, select New ➝ Key, and type IconHandler for the
name of the new key.
4. If the key already exists, it might be locked (as described in Chapter 3),
so you’ll need to unlock it before you make any changes.
Right-click the IconHandler key and select Permissions. On the Permissions for IconHandler window, click Advanced, and then choose the
Owner tab. From the Change owner to list, select your username (or
select Administrators) and turn on the Replace owner on subcontainers
and objects option. Click OK and then OK again to close both windows.
Right-click the IconHandler key and select Permissions again. From the
Group or user names list, select your username (or, again, select
Administrators), place a checkmark in the Allow column next to Full
Control, and then click OK.
5. Next, highlight the IconHandler key and double-click the (Default)
value in the right pane.
6. Type {FBF23B40-E3F0-101B-8488-00AA003E56F8} into the Value data field,
and click OK.
7. Click OK and then close the Registry Editor. If the change doesn’t take
effect immediately, restart Windows.
There’s a quirk that prevents some Internet Shortcut icons
from working. The INI file format upon which .URL files are
based has a limit on the length of any line of text in the file.
If a URL is too long, it wraps around to the next line and disrupts the icon (and of course, doesn’t work as intended). To
fix an Internet Shortcut broken in this way, open it in Notepad and shorten the URL. See “Email Long URLs,” later in
this chapter, for tips.
Now, if you actually turned to this page to change the default icon used for
all Internet Shortcuts, then follow these steps:
2. Expand the branches to HKEY_CLASSES_ROOT\http\DefaultIcon.
3. This key is locked (as described in Chapter 3) by default, so before you
can make any changes, you’ll need to unlock it. Right-click the
DefaultIcon key and select Permissions.
On the Permissions for DefaultIcon window, click Advanced, and then
choose the Owner tab. From the Change owner to list, select your username (or select Administrators) and turn on the Replace owner on
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1. Open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3).
subcontainers and objects option. Click OK and then OK again to close
both windows.
Right-click the DefaultIcon key again and select Permissions. From the
Group or user names list, select your username (or, again, select
Administrators), place a checkmark in the Allow column next to Full
Control, and then click OK.
4. Now that you’ve unlocked the key, highlight it and then double-click
the (Default) value in the right pane.
5. Type (or paste) the full path and filename of the icon you want to use,
followed by a comma and a zero:
c:\icons\maeby.ico,0
6. Click OK and then close the Registry Editor. If the change doesn’t take
effect immediately, restart Windows.
See Chapter 3 for more information on file types, including ways to lock
your changes so you won’t have to do this again.
Live with Firefox in an IE World
Ever found a web site that won’t let you in because you’re using Firefox or
some other browser instead of Internet Explorer? The problem is the user
agent string, a text “signature” your browser sends to every web site you
visit that identifies the browser name and version, and even the operating
system version you’re using. For example, the user agent string for Internet
Explorer 7.0 on the Windows Vista Ultimate edition looks like this:
Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 7.0; Windows NT 6.0; SLCC1; .NET CLR 2.0.50727;
Media Center PC 5.0; .NET CLR 3.0.04506; Tablet PC 2.0; .NET CLR 1.1.4322)
On the other hand, Firefox 2.0 looks like this to web sites you visit:
Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 6.0; en-US; rv:1.8.1.6) Gecko/20070725
Firefox/2.0.0.6
If you use Firefox (or any non-IE browser, for that matter), you’ll occasionally
encounter a web site that won’t cooperate. The problem is usually caused
either by lazy developers who haven’t made their web sites standardscompliant, or corporate licensing restrictions that forbid developers from supporting any non-Microsoft products. The good news is, you can fool ’em all!
The User Agent Switcher Extension for SeaMonkey and Firefox, (available
for free from http://chrispederick.com/work/useragentswitcher/), allows
Mozilla browsers to masquerade as any other browser, including Internet
Explorer, good ol’ Netscape 4, and even Opera. When you stumble upon an
IE-only web site, just go to Tools ➝ User Agent Switcher and pick a
browser, as shown in Figure 7-36.
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Figure 7-36. The User Agent Switcher can masquerade as IE to gain entry to sites that
don’t expressly support Firefox
Click Options to edit the browser list; you can even type in a custom user
agent string and spoof a different version of Windows. What fun!
When you find a site that doesn’t work in Firefox or SeaMonkey, send the
webmaster a note and request the site be made standards-compliant. A single email probably won’t change the site owner’s mind, but enough complaints may convince the webmaster to rethink the decision to support only
Internet Explorer.
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Of course, dressing up your browser as Internet Explorer doesn’t necessarily mean the site will work like it’s supposed to. Often, these sites require
Internet Explorer because they employ proprietary IE features, such as the
ActiveX add-ons that can open the door to spyware (see “Lock Down Internet Explorer,” earlier in this chapter). In these cases, you must either view
the page in IE or abandon the site. If you take the former course of action,
you’ll appreciate the IE View extension for Firefox and SeaMonkey (freely
available from http://ieview.mozdev.org/). When you encounter a site that
won’t work properly in Firefox, just right-click an empty area of the page
and select View This Page in IE or right-click any link on the page and select
Open Link Target in IE.
Fix Symbols in Web Pages
Ever view a page with strange symbols in the text, particularly where you’d
expect to see hyphens or apostrophes? Although it may look like a font or
language problem, it’s more than likely that you just have the wrong code
page selected.
The code page is the mapping of characters your browser uses to render
text, and it must match the code page that was used to create the site. Usually your browser picks the correct one automatically, but if you’ve previously changed the code page (or if another web site switched code pages on
you), or if the web site doesn’t specify the correct code page, the site won’t
display properly.
In Internet Explorer, open the Page drop-down, and select Encoding ➝
Auto-Select. If there’s already a checkmark next to Auto-Select, or if that
doesn’t help, go to Encoding ➝ More, and choose the nationality that best
matches the document you’re viewing. The default code page for sites in
English is Western European (Windows).
In Firefox and SeaMonkey, go to View ➝ Character Encoding, and select
Western (ISO-8859-1) for sites in English, or another nationalization that
more closely matches the site you’re viewing. If you find yourself returning to
this menu often, go to View ➝ Character Encoding ➝ Customize to choose
which code pages are displayed in the top-level menu. With either browser,
some trial-and-error may be necessary before the site displays correctly.
Fix Broken Pictures in Web Pages
There are a bunch of things that can cause this problem, not the least of
which is a web server that’s down or a page that’s out of date. But if several
different sites are missing photos, try the following fixes.
First, clear your browser cache to remove any corrupt data that your
browser might be using to display pages. In Internet Explorer, open the
Tools drop-down, select Internet Options, and in the Temporary Internet
files section, click Delete Files. Check the Delete all offline content box and
click OK. If you’re using Firefox, go to Tools ➝ Options, choose the Privacy category, and click the Clear button next to Cache. Or, in SeaMonkey,
go to Edit ➝ Preferences, choose the Advanced ➝ Cache category, and click
the Clear Cache button.
Some improperly configured firewall software, particularly Norton Internet
Security and Norton Personal Firewall, can interfere with images in some
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web sites. Temporarily disable your firewall; if that helps, consult the firewall’s documentation (specifically relating to the anti-hotlinking features) to
help fix the problem. (Note that neither Windows Firewall nor most firewallenabled routers typically exhibit this problem.)
Ad-blockers may also be suppressing content you want to see. By design, adblockers block images, animations, inline frames, and other content served
up by certain sites, but your ad-blocker might be blocking more than just
the ads. Many sites also pull non-ad content from these same servers, sometimes for economic or technical reasons, but primarily in an attempt to
thwart ad-blockers. Either way, turn off your ad-blocking software to see
whether that solves the problem.
Finally, bad proxy settings can break all sorts of things in web sites. If you’re
surfing from work, your employer may require you to go through a proxy
server; turn it off and see whether the problem stops. Likewise, if you’re
surfing from home and you’re using a proxy server (as described in “Surf
Anonymously,” later in this chapter), you may have to turn it off to view
sites reliably. In Internet Explorer, open the Tools drop-down, select Internet Options, choose the Connections tab, and click the LAN Settings button
to configure your proxy server. In Firefox, go to Tools ➝ Options, choose the
General category, and click Connection Settings. Or, in SeaMonkey, go to
Edit ➝ Preferences and choose the Advanced ➝ Proxies category.
Improve Any Web Site
Web sites aren’t as untouchable as they may seem. In the early days of the
Web, if you frequented a web site with some annoying quirks or features
that didn’t quite work right, you just had to grit your teeth and live with it.
But Greasemonkey has changed all that.
There’s also a version for SeaMonkey at http://xsidebar.
mozdev.org/modifiedmisc.html. If you’re using Internet
Explorer, try Trixie (http://www.bhelpuri.net/Trixie), which
runs Greasemonkey user scripts on IE. Keep in mind that
most Greasemonkey user scripts are written for—and tested
with—Greasemonkey on Firefox, so there’s no guarantee
that they’ll work as well (or at all) with Trixie and IE.
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Greasemonkey is a free extension (available at http://www.greasespot.net/)
for the Firefox web browser that lets you add custom JavaScript code to any
web page. The code then runs automatically as though it were part of the
page itself and alters its appearance or changes its behavior accordingly.
By itself, Greasemonkey doesn’t do much. To bring it to life, you must
install user scripts that you download or write yourself. Most user scripts are
designed to add features to individual web sites, but some are written to fix
bugs. Visit http://userscripts.org/, and you’ll find enough gems to keep you
entertained for some time.
The easiest way to find a user script is to search userscripts.org for the site
you want to grease up. For instance, there were 35 scripts for Google Maps
at the time of this writing, including one that changes the input field to a
multiline textbox, making it easier to copy and paste street addresses, and
another that lets you quickly zoom to a specific region on the map by drawing a rectangle right on the page.
Or, in the eBay section, you’ll find a script that makes it easy to show only
the complaints in an eBay member’s feedback profile (Figure 7-37), something eBay won’t let you do. (See my book, eBay Hacks, Second Edition—
also from O’Reilly—for more tricks like this.)
Figure 7-37. Greasemonkey is also responsible for adding the Complaints Left and
Complaints Received tabs to this eBay page
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When you’ve found a user script you want, right-click the link to the script
and select Install User Script. Or, click the link to display and examine the
script in the browser, and if you like what you see, go to Tools ➝ Install
User Script. The script will be active immediately, but you’ll have to reload
any applicable pages to see the results.
Not all scripts are site-specific. The “Linkifier” script turns anything that
looks like a URL—on any page—into an active link you can click. Similar
scripts do the same thing for email addresses and even UPS and FedEx
tracking numbers. The best part, though, is that with some knowledge of
JavaScript, you can write your own user scripts and customize the Web to
your heart’s content! To get started authoring user scripts, visit http://
diveintogreasemonkey.org/ and pick up a copy of O’Reilly’s Greasemonkey
Hacks by Mark Pilgrim.
Put an End to Pop Ups
Pop-up ads are everywhere, but alas, I suspect anti-pop-up laws would be
about as effective as antispam laws. But that doesn’t mean you can’t take
matters into your own hands and stop the madness (more or less). In the old
days, all you’d have to do is install a third-party pop-up blocker, and you’d
be set. Today, all major browsers come with built-in pop-up blockers
(though some are better than others). The problem is that pop ups are no
longer limited to web sites, which means your anti-pop-up arsenal must
grow to keep up.
Although web-based pop ups are blocked by default in Internet Explorer,
you may want to make it more aggressive to block more pop ups. Open the
Tools drop-down, and select Pop-up Blocker ➝ Pop-up Blocker Settings.
From the Filter level list, select High: Block all pop-ups, and then click OK.
You can also allow pop ups on a case-by-case basis by clicking the yellow information bar when it appears. And if
you’ve selected the High: Block all pop-ups filter level as
described above, you can also press Ctrl-Alt when clicking
links to temporarily allow pop ups.
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Of course, some sites use pop-up windows for legitimate purposes, so you
may decide to exclude sites from the blocker from time to time to allow their
pop ups to work. Return to the Pop-up Blocker Settings window, type (or
paste) the URL of the site into the Address of Web site to allow box, click
Add, and click OK.
Firefox also blocks pop ups by default. To permit pop ups from certain sites,
go to Tools ➝ Options, choose the Web Features category, and click
Allowed Sites next to Block Popup Windows. Or, in SeaMonkey, go to
Tools ➝ Popup Manager ➝ Allow Popups From This Site, and click the Add
button to exclude the current site from being blocked.
Firefox and SeaMonkey also give you more control than IE over JavaScript,
the programming language used to facilitate most pop ups and add some
other annoying traits to web sites. In Firefox, go to Tools ➝ Options, choose
the Web Features category, and click the Advanced button next to Enable
Javascript. Or, in SeaMonkey, go to Edit ➝ Preferences ➝ Advanced ➝
Scripts & Plugins. In either browser, you can prevent sites from moving or
resizing windows, changing the text in the status bar, and more, by simply
turning off the respective options. See “Improve Any Web Site,” earlier in
this chapter, for other ways to make sites less annoying.
So, now you’re blocking pop ups, but ad windows are still showing up? If
you see pop ups when you’re not surfing the Web, your PC may be infected
with spyware, software designed to display advertisements and sometimes
even monitor your surfing habits. (Of course, the software you’re using,
such as Windows Messenger, may be showing you its own ads, but that’s a
different problem.) Spyware, adware, and other types of malware (malicious
software) come from some web sites (see “Lock Down Internet Explorer,”
earlier in this chapter) and also piggy-back on some downloadable applications, commonly P2P file-sharing programs and, strangely, many weatherforecasting desktop applications. See Chapter 6 for various malware removal
techniques.
Solve the Blank Form Mystery
When was the last time you filled out a form on a web page and clicked Submit, only to be told there’s something wrong with what you’ve entered? You
do as you’re told and click the Back button to return to the previous page,
but now the form is completely empty.
This is caused by a bug in your web browser, not the web site. All versions
of Internet Explorer, and older releases of Netscape (versions 4.x and earlier) exhibit this bug. Browsers based on the Mozilla engine, such as Firefox
and SeaMonkey, are better at saving form information, except under certain
circumstances. For instance, if a form is generated on the fly, Mozilla browsers usually can’t save the text you’ve typed into it.
To date, no browser handles form data in previously visited pages perfectly,
but there are a few workarounds.
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For one, most web site designers are aware of the bug, and have built their
web sites accordingly. So, if you submit a form, and need to go back and
change what you’ve typed, don’t press your browser’s Back button. Rather,
look for a Back button or Edit button right on the page, and click it to safely
modify your text.
Next, make a habit of performing an impromptu backup before you submit
any form. For instance, if you’ve written a long message, click in the text
box, press Ctrl-A to highlight all the text, press Ctrl-C to copy it, open
Notepad, and press Ctrl-V to paste. (Repeat these steps for each long field in
the form.) If you’re later returned to an empty form, simply paste your text
back into the fields and try again.
Finally, Mozilla SeaMonkey can prefill most types of web forms. Just before
submitting a form, select Edit ➝ Save Form Info. Then, if the form is blank
when you return (or if you encounter a new form requiring similar data),
select Edit ➝ Fill in Form to restore your data.
Stop Annoying Animations
It seems like everywhere you go on the Web, something is pulsating, flying
across the screen, or playing music. So, how do you make this online circus
stop?
In most cases, pressing the Esc key stops the animations, but this is temporary and only works with animated .gif image files. If you want to permanently disable .gif animations altogether in Internet Explorer, open the
Tools drop-down, select Internet Options, click the Advanced tab, and turn
off the Play animations in web pages option. You can also turn off sounds
and videos with similar settings in the same section. Click OK when you’re
done.
Other types of animations require different strategies. To turn off Flash animations in Internet Explorer, you must uninstall the Flash player using Macromedia’s elusive uninstaller tool, available at http://www.macromedia.com/
support/flashplayer/ (search the knowledgebase for “uninstall”).
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In Firefox and SeaMonkey, type about:config into the address bar to show
the staggering list of all available fine-tuning options for these browsers.
Find image.animation_mode in the list (type something like anim in the Filter field to locate it quickly), double-click the option, and type none in the
Enter String Value box. If you don’t want to completely disable animations,
you can type once here instead (normal is the default) to let sites play all animations only once, but never repeat (loop) them. Click OK when you’re
done.
But in Mozilla Firefox and SeaMonkey, you can use the powerful Adblock
Plus extension, available for free at http://adblockplus.org/, to selectively hide
animations. Once installed, restart your browser, and then go to Tools ➝
Adblock Plus. Open the Options menu, and if the Show tabs on Flash and
Java entry doesn’t have a checkmark next to it, select it and then click OK.
Thereafter, a little tab labeled Block will protrude from any Flash animation
on a page (see Figure 7-38); just click the Block tab to show the address of
the ad, and then click OK to begin blocking that particular Flash animation.
Figure 7-38. The tabs feature in AdBlock Plus is a quick way to get the address of an
embedded web object, as well as a means of eliminating annoying animations from a web
page
Adblock Plus supports wildcards so that, for instance, you can block all
Flash animations from a particular server, rather than having to do it manually for each one. The next time you click a Block tab, you’ll see the address
of the .swf file, like this:
http://advertising.server/ads/chipmunk.swf
Just replace the filename with an asterisk (*), like this:
http://advertising.server/ads/*
to block all the files from the /ads/ folder on that server. Adblock Plus will
continue to hide these animations until you manually remove the corresponding rule from the Adblock Plus Preferences window.
Now, if the animation, video, or sound is coming from an embedded Java
applet, and you don’t have the luxury of an ad blocker, you can turn off Java
support altogether. In Internet Explorer, go to Tools ➝ Internet Options,
click the Security tab, click Custom Level, and in the JavaVM section, select
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Disable Java, and then click OK in both boxes. In Firefox, go to Tools ➝
Options, choose the Web Features category, turn off the Enable Java
option, and click OK. Or, in SeaMonkey, go to Edit Preferences, highlight
the Advanced category, turn off the Enable Java option, and click OK.
JavaScript, not to be confused with Java, is often used to create flyovers
(where a button or icon changes when you move the mouse over it) as well
as cursor trails (the flying bits that follow your mouse pointer). Now,
because so many sites rely heavily on JavaScript, it isn’t a good idea to turn
it off just to purge these sorts of animations. In most cases, you can curb
annoying JavaScript behavior with an appropriate user script, as described in
“Improve Any Web Site,” earlier in this chapter. If you’re using Firefox or
SeaMonkey along with Adblock Plus, you can use the “Blockable items”
window (press Ctrl-Shift-B) to block one or more of a specific site’s external JavaScript source files.
Opt Out of Tabbed Browsing
Some people like tabs because they can be used to reduce screen clutter, but
if you don’t specifically want to use them (for instance, if you like to view
pages side-by-side), tabs are just a nuisance.
Fortunately, it’s easy to do away with tabs in Internet Explorer. Just open
the Tools drop-down, select Internet Options, and choose the General tab.
In the Tabs section, click Settings, and turn off the Enable Tabbed Browsing option. Click OK and then OK again, and then close any open Internet
Explorer windows for the change to take effect.
On the other side of the fence are those who despise the pile-up of windows, and are happy to put up with tabs to keep the browser window tidy.
If you fall into this category (and you’re a Firefox user), install the Switch
Windows Mode extension, free from https://addons.mozilla.org/addon/3881,
or the This Window extension, free from http://www.mrchucho.net/downloads/
thiswindow.xpi.
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If you’re using Firefox or SeaMonkey, turning off tabbed browsing is a little
more involved. To disable all tabs in Firefox or SeaMonkey permanently,
install the free TabKiller extension available at https://addons.mozilla.org/
addon/1938, and then restart Firefox. Thereafter, Firefox will ignore any
attempts to open new tabs, instead opening such links directly. (To have
Firefox open such links in new windows, go to Tools ➝ Extensions, highlight TabKiller, click Options, turn on the Open new windows instead of
new tabs option, and click OK.)
If you don’t want to turn off tabbed browsing or mess with add-ons, you can
use keystrokes to control what happens when you click links:
Internet Explorer
Hold Ctrl when clicking a link to open it in a new tab, or Shift to open
it in a separate window. If you have IE’s pop-up blocker set to the highest filter level, you can also press Ctrl-Alt to temporarily allow pop ups
from the site.
Firefox
Like IE, hold Ctrl when clicking a link to open it in a new tab, or Shift
to open it in a separate window. You can also hold Alt to save the link
target on your hard disk.
SeaMonkey
Hold Ctrl when clicking a link to open it in a new window, or Shift to
save the link target on your hard disk.
In any browser, you can also right-click a link and select Open in New Window or Open in New Tab to control tabs from the comfort of your index
finger.
Surf Anonymously
Web sites you visit know more about you than you probably realize. Along
with the browser signature (see “Live with Firefox in an IE World,” earlier in
this chapter), your browser sends your PC’s Internet IP address to every web
site it visits, and from that, a web site can extract some pretty interesting
things. (See the upcoming “What Can They Find Out About You?” sidebar
for the nitty gritty.)
Use a proxy server to mask your IP address (and yes, your state) from the
web sites you visit. As the name implies, a proxy server stands between your
browser and the sites you surf, in effect “hiding” you from prying sites.
Once you set up a proxy server, all information you send and receive with
your browser goes through that server (email and other programs must be
configured separately to use the proxy). Most large companies use their own
proxy servers to help protect the data on company PCs from prying eyes,
but you don’t have to work at a big company to get the same protection.
Start by visiting http://annoyances.org/ip to view your IP address as web sites
see it. Then, go to http://www.proxy4free.com/, click page 1, and find any
server marked “anonymous.” Highlight its IP address and press Ctrl-C to
copy it to the clipboard; also note the Port shown in the adjacent column.
Next, configure your browser to use that proxy server.
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What Can They Find Out About You?
Your IP address is sent to every web site you visit. While no one can determine
your exact street address directly from your IP address, there are ways to infer
this information with elaborate tracking schemes. Think of your IP address as a
serial number, a unique identifier some web sites can use to identify you when
you visit.
For instance, let’s say you make a purchase from an online store that sells
toasters. As soon as you pay for that fancy new four-slicer, the store records
your name, street address, credit card information, and your IP address. Provided the toaster store keeps your private information private, you’ve got
nothing to worry about. But can you say the same thing for the other site you
just used to sign up for a free plasma TV?
This is where advertising comes in. Most ads on many web sites originate from
only a handful of companies, and those companies track who’s looking at their
ads, even when you don’t click them. If you view a page at a news web site that
displays a banner ad hosted by, say, adknowledge.com or targetnet.com, and
then you sign up to win a free TV on another site that has another ad from the
same agency, that ad server knows you’ve visited both sites. What’s more, if
the ad agency is in cahoots with the people who are giving away the TV, they
have your email address, street address, shoe size, and anything else you
typed into the sweepstakes sign-up page.
Now, most folks have dynamic IP addresses, which change every time they start
a connection, but a single IP can remain active all day (or with a router, for weeks
at a time), which means your IP address can be used to track quite a bit of your
online activity. And with a geolocation tool like http://www.yougetsignal.com/,
anyone can find your approximate location. What’s more, many unscrupulous
sites use so-called tracking cookies to do the same thing—namely, tag your PC
with a unique serial number that can be read as you visit many different sites.
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So, how can you stop the snooping? Most antispyware software (see
Chapter 6) is designed to scan your system and delete any tracking cookies
it finds, but you may want to take it one step further and configure your
browser to not accept any cookies from these sites. You can get a list of
known tracking sites from http://www3.ca.com/securityadvisor/pest/
browse.aspx?cat=Tracking%20Cookie. (If this feels like overkill, block only
those sites responsible for the cookies your antispyware software finds on
your PC.) To block cookies in Internet Explorer, go to Tools ➝ Internet
Options, choose the Privacy tab, and click Sites. In Firefox, go to Tools ➝
Options, choose the Privacy category, expand the Cookies section, and then
click Exceptions. Or, in SeaMonkey, go to Tools ➝ Cookie Manager ➝ Manage Stored Cookies.
—continued—
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Next, install ad-blocking software such as the Adblock extension described
in “Stop Annoying Animations,” earlier in this chapter, and use a proxy server
to mask your IP address.
Wondering whether you can trust the proxy service not to
use your IP and other info for nefarious purposes? The truth
is that there’s no reason to trust an anonymous proxy any
more than the sites from which you’re hiding. For practical
purposes, you should only use one of these proxies when
you specifically need to surf anonymously, and avoid logging in to your bank’s web site while connected to a proxy.
If you’re using Internet Explorer, open the Tools drop-down, select Internet
Options, choose the Connections tab, and click LAN Settings. Turn on the
Use a proxy server for your LAN option, and then paste (press Ctrl-V) the
IP address you got at proxy4free.com into the Address field. Type the port
number (usually 80 or 8080) into the Port field, and click OK when you’re
done.
If you find yourself using proxies often, you may want to
reduce the number of trips you make to Internet Explorer’s
LAN Settings window. Click the Advanced button, and in
the Exceptions box, type the addresses of web sites you
want to connect to directly (no proxy).
Settings made in the Internet Options window affect Internet Explorer only,
so you’ll have to use a slightly different procedure for other browsers. If
you’re using Firefox, go to Tools ➝ Options, choose the General category,
choose the Connection Settings tab, and select Manual proxy configuration. If you’re using SeaMonkey, go to Edit ➝ Preferences ➝ Advanced ➝
Proxies, and select Manual proxy configuration.
Now, go back to http://annoyances.org/ip and notice that your IP has
changed! (If you can’t load the page, the proxy server is down; just choose
another proxy server from proxy4free.com, and try again.) From here on,
every site you visit will see your proxy server’s IP address instead of yours
until you disable the proxy.
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Every byte of data you send and receive with your web
browser will be sent through the proxy server. Unless you
know—and trust—whoever is hosting that server, you
should always disable the proxy before sending sensitive
information (e.g., your home address, credit cards, etc.).
If you don’t want to go to the trouble of setting up a proxy server whenever
you visit sketchy web sites, there are alternatives. One solution is to use a
free, single-serving proxy web site, such as Proxify (http://proxify.com/), The
Cloak (http://www.the-cloak.com/), and the Private Surfing box in the upperright corner at Anonymizer (http://www.anonymizer.com/). Just type or paste
the URL of the site you want to visit into the text box on any of these pages,
and press Enter. The proxy site will load up the page, allowing you to surf
anonymously for this session. Click the links in the page to continue surfing
anonymously, or use your browser’s address bar, bookmarks, or Internet
Shortcuts to return to the normal, non-proxy surfing.
Anonymizer also has a free Privacy Toolbar (for Internet Explorer only),
which does pretty much the same thing as the web-based Anonymizer, albeit
with a slicker interface.
If you’re using Firefox, check out the excellent FoxyProxy add-on, available
for free from http://foxyproxy.mozdev.org/. Among other things, FoxyProxy
makes to easy to switch between proxy servers (or none at all), and even lets
you set up rules (called patterns) to automatically enable a specific proxy
when you visit certain web sites.
Now, you might be thinking, why not just use a router? Well, routers—discussed in Chapter 6—offer terrific firewall production and indeed act as a layer
between your PC and the rest of the Web. But when you surf from behind a
router, web sites still see your router’s IP address, and thus are still able to collect all the same information about you and your geographical location.
See “Lock Out Unauthorized PCs,” earlier in this chapter, for a way to spoof
the MAC address of your PC (or your router).
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If you want more flexibility than web-based proxies can offer, and don’t
mind paying for it, try Anonymizer’s Anonymous Surfing tool, the Anonymous Browsing Toolbar 3.3 (http://www.amplusnet.com/), or Hide the IP
(http://www.hide-the-ip.com/). These products, in the form of software you
install on your PC, perform pretty much the same function as the web-based
proxies mentioned above, albeit with more features and speed. All things
considered, these software-based proxies are probably marginally safer than
anonymous proxies, and less of a hassle than web-based proxies.
Change the Default Email Reader
Just because email is ubiquitous doesn’t mean it’s irrelevant which email
software you use. Sure, Microsoft would love it if you used the Windows
Mail application that comes with Vista, or better yet, the Windows Live
Mail web site that’s tied to its online corporate marketing strategy. And it
wants you to use Microsoft Office and Internet Explorer, rather than OpenOffice and Firefox. If Microsoft had its way, you’d be brushing your teeth
with Microsoft Toothpaste. The good news is that you can have it your way;
Sinatra would be proud.
The most ceremonious place to start is the Email link at the top of your Start
menu. Right-click the Start button, select Properties, and choose the Start
Menu tab. Make sure the Start menu option is selected, and click the Customize button. From the E-mail link list, pick the email program you want
to use. (See below if your favorite program or web site isn’t in the list.)
But changing the Start menu entry doesn’t affect the default email program,
the one that opens when you send a file from an application or click a
mailto: link in a web page. In Control Panel, open Default Programs, and
then click the Set program access and computer defaults link. In the window that appears, choose the Custom option, and then click the little doublearrow icon on the right side to expand the category. In the Choose a default
e-mail program section, select your favorite email program.
If your program doesn’t appear in the Set Program Access
and Computer Defaults window, but the Use my current email program entry is selected, your favorite email program
may already be set as the default, despite the fact that it isn’t
mentioned by name here. To test it, open the Start menu, and
in the Search box, type mailto:test and see what happens.
If your favorite email reader isn’t showing up in either of the aforementioned
lists, it doesn’t mean that Microsoft specifically excluded it. (Of course, neither did Microsoft make it easy to browse for a new entry, but that’s a different story.) Rather, it simply means that your application or web site isn’t
properly registered with Windows.
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The easy way to fix the problem is to check the software publisher’s web
site for an update and get it if there is one, and then reinstall your email
application.
If that doesn’t help, or if the email program you want to use is actually a
web site, you can edit the list by hand, which, of course, requires a visit to
the Windows Registry:
1. Open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3).
2. Expand the branches to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Clients\Mail.
3. Here, you’ll find a separate subkey for each program currently registered on your PC; to remove an entry from the list, just delete the corresponding key here.
Adding entries is a little more involved. Rather than filling out everything
by hand, get the template from http://www.annoyances.org/downloads/
gmail.reg and save it to your desktop. Double-click the gmail.reg patch file
to merge it with your Registry, and then return to the Registry Editor to
have a look at the new entry, located at HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\
Clients\Mail\Gmail.
4. You can rename the Gmail key to whatever you like, but to change the
title that appears in the Windows list of registered email programs,
double-click the (Default) value on the right side.
5. Next, go to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Clients\Mail\Gmail\shell\
open\command, and double-click the (Default) value there to change the
address of the program.
If it’s an application on your hard disk, type (or paste) the full path and
filename of the program’s .exe file (i.e., C:\Program Files\AcmeMail\
acme.exe). Or, if it’s a web site, type the .exe filename of your browser
followed by the appropriate parameter and then the URL of your site,
like this:
iexplore.exe -nohome http://gmail.com
or, for Mozilla Firefox, type:
c:\program files\mozilla\mozilla.exe -url http://gmail.com
(Note the -nohome and -url parameters for Internet Explorer and SeaMonkey, respectively, and the fact that Firefox doesn’t need one.)
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c:\program files\firefox\firefox.exe http://gmail.com
or, for Mozilla SeaMonkey, type:
6. You’re not done yet; to set up your new Registry entry to respond correctly to mailto: links you click in web pages, navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_
MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Clients\Mail\Gmail\Protocols\mailto\shell\open\
command, and double-click the (Default) value to the right.
Just like the command key you set in step 5, type the path of the application or the path of your browser plus the web site address. But this time,
also include the %1 parameter so that Windows can pass the email
address you clicked to your email program. You’ll need to check the
documentation for your program or web site for the correct commandline syntax, but for programs it should look something like this:
c:\Program Files\Eudora\Eudora.exe /m %1
or for a web site (like GMail), type:
iexplore.exe -nohome
https://mail.google.com/mail/?view=cm&tearoff=1&fs=1&to=%1
Naturally, substitute your favorite browser for IE in this example, but
note that the only difference between this and the syntax in the previous step is the URL to use, which now includes &to=%1, among other
things. If your web site doesn’t provide the necessary URL, just search
Google for the word mailto and the name of your web site (or application), and you should get the information you need.
When you’re done, test your changes by clicking the Email entry in your
Start menu, and then follow-up by clicking a mailto: link in any web page.
Stop Spam
Of the 873 messages in your inbox this morning, I bet only about 5 were
actually for you (thinning hair and waning sex drive notwithstanding). So,
how do you do away with the other 868 messages that are sure to be delivered again tomorrow?
Unfortunately, there is no perfect solution. Either you live with some junk
mail in your inbox, or you employ a spam filter that occasionally deletes
valid messages. But there are things you can do to mitigate the problem and
reduce your exposure to spam.
First, don’t post your email address on web sites, public forums, or in the
backs of computer books. If you’ve already done this, you’re already on
every spam list on the planet. Also, be wary of phishing emails (see the
upcoming “Don’t Phall for Phishing” sidebar), another source (and scourge)
of spam.
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Don’t Phall for Phishing
“Hmmm, a talking moose wants my credit card number. Sounds fair...”
—Homer Simpson
So, you get this message from eBay telling you that your account will be suspended if you don’t update your information, and then you get a nearly identical message from Wells Fargo. I’m sure the urgent tone of the messages
might be more disconcerting if you actually had accounts at those institutions.
Of course, those messages aren’t from eBay or Wells Fargo; they’re spam. But
unlike come-ons for weight loss and real estate schemes, this spam tries to
trick you into revealing personal information through a practice called phishing (not to be confused with the musical group Phish).
Phishing messages have become such a problem that even Microsoft has
snapped into action and included a Phishing Filter with Internet Explorer 7.0.
The filter, which is enabled by default, warns you if you visit a site it suspects
to be fraudulent, and even lets you report a phishing web site so others can
be warned. (From the Tools drop-down in IE, select Phishing Filter for
options.) But for the IE’s Phishing Filter to work, you need to have automatic
updates enabled, as described in “The Security Center and the Firewall,” earlier in this chapter.
But no filter is foolproof. To avoid this trap, you need to recognize the red
flags. First, no reputable company will ever ask you to “verify” your information, and while many sites ask you to log in to access your account, never do
so after following a link in an email. Instead, use a trusted bookmark or just
type the URL into your browser’s address bar by hand. If you’re not comfortable simply discarding the message, contact the company and ask whether
the email is legitimate.
Second, inspect any URLs in the message. Pass your mouse pointer over the
link and the address should pop up (assuming your email program supports
this). Odds are, you won’t see something like http://www.ebay.com, but
rather a long arcane URL with lots of symbols or a numeric web address like
http://168.143.113.54. This is a sure sign the link points to a fake web site.
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Next, if you’ve configured your browser to save your login information, you’ll
know you’re not looking at the real site if your browser does fill out the form
for you; browsers save passwords for specific URLs, and your PC can tell the
real thing even if you can’t.
To further scrutinize a suspicious email, right-click the message body and
select View Source to view the HTML source code of the message. Search for
http and you’ll find the real URLs tied to the links in the message.
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Now, some email messages have embedded pictures (as opposed to attachments); when you view one of these messages, your email program fetches
the picture from the server, and that server records the event. (And voilà, the
sender has confirmed that you’ve read the message.) If you turn off image
fetching, those servers are never notified, and you’ll find yourself on fewer
spam lists:
Microsoft Windows Mail
Go to Tools ➝ Options, choose the Security tab, and under Download
Images, turn on the Block images and other external content in HTML
e-mail option.
Microsoft Outlook 2007
Go to Tools ➝ Trust Center, choose the Automatic Download category on the left, and then in the right pane, turn on the Don’t download pictures automatically in HTML e-mail messages or RSS items
option.
Eudora
Go to Tools ➝ Options, choose the Display category on the left, and
then turn off the Automatically download HTML graphics option.
Mozilla Thunderbird
Go to Tools ➝ Options, choose the Advanced Privacy category, and
select the Block loading of remote images in mail messages option.
Gmail
By default, inline images aren’t displayed in Gmail messages. Instead,
you’ll see a green stripe at the top of the message; just click the Display
images below link if you need to see them, or the Always display
images link if you trust the sender. Now, if you click the Always display images link by accident, you can rescind your permission by clicking Show details and then Don’t display from now on.
Windows Live Mail (a.k.a. MSN Hotmail)
At the top of any Live Mail page, click Options. Choose the Mail category on the left, click Mail Display Settings, and then under Display
Internet content, select Automatically suppress Internet content in
messages.
Next, install an independent, passive spam filter—one that marks potential
spam instead of deleting it—like SpamPal (free, http://spampal.org/). Then
configure your email program’s filter to send all email containing the text
**Spam** in the subject line to the Junk or Trash mailbox. That way, you can
get the spam out of your face, but later peruse your junk mail for valid messages before it’s gone for good. Now, most email programs (e.g., Outlook,
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Thunderbird, and Eudora) have built-in spam filters that can likewise route
spam into the trash. But programs like SpamPal are more configurable and
update their spam lists and definitions frequently. Note: SpamPal works
with any POP3- or IMAP4-based email program, which means it doesn’t
work with AOL, or web-based mail systems like Gmail.
All spam filters rely on up-to-date lists and definitions to block spam effectively, so make sure they are kept up-to-date. If you’re using Outlook, you
can get spam filter updates with Microsoft Update: open Windows Update
in Control Panel, click Settings, and turn on the Use Microsoft Update
option. (For older versions of Office, you can get updates manually from
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/officeupdate/.) Some other email programs,
like Eudora, include updates only with subsequent versions of the software;
check your documentation for details.
If your spam situation is particularly bad, and passive spam filters aren’t cutting it, there are more drastic options. First, contact your ISP and request that
it employ a server-based spam filter such as Postini (http://postini.com/).
Server-side filters delete spam en route to your inbox, so you don’t even
have to download it. The downside: some valid mail may never make it to
your inbox.
If you’re running an online business, think twice before you
deploy one of these aggressive spam filters. The last thing
you want is a spam filter deleting your customers’ emails!
And eBay users take note: spam filters are the number-one
cause of negative feedback for both buyers and sellers.
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You can also employ a more aggressive interactive spam filter, such as
Cloudmark Desktop (http://www.cloudmark.com/), which won’t allow any
email to reach your inbox unless the sender is on an approved-senders list.
(Many ISPs and some web-based email providers offer this type of service to
their customers as well.) If a non-approved sender tries to send you a message, the program sends back an email requesting that the sender fill out a
web form. This not only trips up spam (which is sent by machines), it lets
you reject humans with whom you’d rather not correspond. Of course, you
can also easily add any sender to your approved list, but that in itself introduces extra work. This approach can turn a flood of spam into a trickle, but
it won’t ever let valid automated messages through, such as newsletters, registration codes you paid for, or order confirmation emails from online merchants. And spoofed messages, wherein the sender is made to look like
someone likely to be on your approved list (such as other people in your
domain), won’t be stopped by these types of filters.
If you’re already getting tons of spam, perhaps now is the time to change
your email address. Get your own domain name and create a bunch of different addresses for different purposes, such as [email protected]
for online shopping, [email protected] for buying and selling on
eBay, [email protected] for newsletters, and [email protected] for correspondence with friends and family, and have them all go to
the same inbox. That way, if one of your addresses makes its way onto a spam
list, you can take down the address without disrupting the email to your other
accounts. Better yet, create a new email address for every site you visit, such as
[email protected], [email protected], [email protected],
and [email protected] That way, if an address starts getting spam,
you’ll know who sold you out.
Do you receive email at more than one address? Use your
email program’s Filters feature to sort through your incoming mail and even mark individual messages so that when
you can reply, the correct return address is automatically
used.
Send Large Files
Clogging a friend’s inbox with 20 megabytes of email attachments is a great
way to get your friend to configure a spam filter that automatically dumps
all your email in the trash.
If all you need to send is a few photos, emailing them is fine...as long you
shrink them down first. Your 8-megapixel digital camera creates 4 Mb files,
but your friends don’t need full-resolution photos unless they’re going to
print them. So, use your photo editor to make them all smaller before you
email them; the total size of all the files you send should never be more than
400–500 Kb.
Need your recipients to be able to print the photos? There’s a plethora of
free photo-sharing web sites designed for this purpose, but few let visitors
download high-resolution pictures. The better ones that do include Picasa
(http://picasa.google.com/), PhotoBucket (http://photobucket.com/), ImageShack (http://imageshack.us/), and PutFile (http://www.putfile.com/). Just
upload your photos to the site and then send the URL the site provides to as
many recipients as you like, without fear of email attachment clog.
To send other types of files, such as documents or ZIP files, you need a
slightly different tack. Since photo-sharing web sites can make money when
visitors order prints, they’re only too happy to host your photos, but few
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sites will be interested in hosting that 50 Mb database file you need to send
to a colleague.
Now, if you have your own web space (often provided free by your ISP), you
can FTP your files to the server, and then send your friends an address like
this:
http://www.{my-isp.net}/~{myusername}/{quarterlyanalysis.zip}
where {my-isp.net} is your ISP’s web site, {myusername} is your user
account, and {quarterlyanalysis.zip} is the name of a file you want to share.
Unfortunately, your ISP probably isn’t interested in helping you host—and
have all your friends download—gigabytes of your data. If you don’t have
web space, or if your ISP restricts the types or size of files you can upload to
it, try a site like YouSendIt (http://www.yousendit.com/). You can upload any
type of file (up to 100 Mb in size) to YouSendIt’s servers, and they’ll automatically email your recipients a link to your files. The service is free, but
your files are deleted after 7 days or 25 downloads, whichever occurs first.
Other sites, like MegaUpload (http://megaupload.com/) and RapidShare
(http://rapidshare.com/) tend to permit more downloads, but the countdown timers and less-than-wholesome advertising that accompanies them
may put off some of your more prudish associates.
Email Long URLs
Ahh, the evils of word wrap. The basic terminal display used to read early
email messages was only 80 characters wide, and while few people still use
terminals to read email, the standard lives on. Today, if you send someone a
message with a long URL, it’ll be broken apart by his or her email program
to conform to that 30-year-old standard.
http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=37.826870,-122.422682&spn=0.
007197,0.009112&t=k&hl=en
and turn it into a tidy, easy-to-email URL like this:
http://tinyurl.com/cfpmc
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Since email vendors have yet to fix this glitch, and your recipients will likely
have no idea what to do when they receive your message with pieces of a
URL spanning several lines, shrink the URL before you send it. For example, TinyURL (http://tinyurl.com/), can take any horrendously long URL,
such as:
TinyURL is fast and free, and the URLs it makes never expire. Also available is SnipURL (http://www.snipurl.com), which does pretty much the same
thing, but adds tracking features.
Find yourself making TinyURLs often? Just go to http://tinyurl.com/
#toolbar, and drag the TinyURL! link onto any browser’s Links toolbar.
Thereafter, just click the button to create a TinyURL from the current page.
If you use Firefox, try TinyURL Creator (https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/
firefox/addon/126?id=126, or better yet, http://tinyurl.com/574q9). To use
the tool, right-click an empty area of the current page and select Create Tiny
URL for this Page. A shortened URL is created on the spot and copied to
your clipboard for your immediate use. A similar tool, Maxthon (free from
http://www.maxthon.com), works with Internet Explorer and SnipURL.
So, what do you do when someone sends you a long URL? Well, you can
highlight it, copy it to the clipboard (Ctrl-C), and then paste it into Notepad (Ctrl-V), where you can then proceed to carefully reassemble the URL
onto one line. (Take care to remove extraneous characters, such as spaces
and punctuation, while leaving the stuff that belongs intact.) Then, copy it
again and paste it back into your web browser’s address bar. But if you’re
using Firefox or SeaMonkey, you can streamline this process with the free
Open Long URL extension (https://addons.mozilla.org/addon/132). Install
the extension, restart your browser, and then select File ➝ Open Long URL.
Paste the long, broken URL into the box, click OK, and the extension will
reassemble the URL for you and open the page. See? Much easier than fixing our email software.
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Chapter 8Users and SecurityUsers and SecurityUser Accounts CHAPTER 8
Users and Security
Microsoft tried something new with user accounts in Windows Vista. In the
past, the purpose of having separate accounts was to make it easy for more
than one person to use a single PC: each user got his or her own desktop,
documents, settings, and even a password to keep private things private. But
in Vista, user accounts also help your PC protect itself from...well, you.
User Account Control (UAC) is the name of the system that displays the
“Windows needs your permission to continue” message whenever you try to
make a change to your system. On one hand, having to watch the screen go
black while you wait for the UAC prompt to appear every time you open
Device Manager can be tremendously annoying. On the other hand, the system is designed to let you know whenever a change is being made to your
system, which (in theory) makes it harder for spyware and viruses to do their
dirty work. See “Control User Account Control,” later in this chapter, for
the scoop.
Otherwise, User Accounts are the primary means of protecting your data,
even if you’re the only person who uses your PC. The user accounts system
allows you to encrypt your data, so it can’t be read by someone who doesn’t
know your password, and it makes it possible to securely share your files
with those on your network who do. And it means you can share your PC
with your kids without having to stare at their “Astronaut on a Surfboard”
desktop wallpaper.
Manage User Accounts
There are actually three different User Accounts dialogs in Windows Vista,
each with a completely different design and “intended audience,” so to
speak. The problem is that each tool has a few options not found in the
other, so no single window can be used exclusively to handle all your tasks.
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User Accounts
The primary user accounts interface, found at Control Panel ➝ User
Accounts and shown in Figure 8-1, is the one that most users see. It’s
large, friendly, and unfortunately, somewhat cumbersome.
Figure 8-1. You can add, delete, or modify user accounts in the User Accounts dialog, but
not much else
Adding, customizing, and removing user accounts is extremely easy,
and for the most part, self-explanatory in this window, and that is admirable. But sometimes you’ll need one of the alternate dialogs, listed
next, to accomplish some of the more advanced tasks, such as managing
groups and configuring Windows to log in a password-protected
account automatically.
The standard User Accounts window is the only place you
can choose a user’s picture, shown in both the login dialog
and at the top of Vista’s Start menu (see “Massage the Start
Menu” in Chapter 2). It’s also the only place you can choose
between the Welcome screen and the standard Login screen,
as discussed in “Hide the List of User Accounts,” later in this
chapter.
User Accounts 2
Some additional settings, discussed later in this chapter, can be changed
only with the alternate User Accounts window, which, incidentally, is
identical to the sole User Accounts tool in Windows 2000. To open the
old-style User Accounts dialog (Figure 8-2), open the Start menu, type
control userpasswords2 in the Search box, and click OK.
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Figure 8-2. The “other” User Accounts dialog can do many things that are otherwise
impossible in the standard User Accounts window
Like the primary User Accounts window, you can add new users, as well
as rename or remove existing accounts. But here, you have more control over a user’s permissions and restrictions. You can access accounts
that would otherwise be hidden in the User Accounts window, such as
the Administrator account (see “Log In As the Administrator,” later in
this chapter) and the IUSR account used by the IIS web server. See
“Hide the List of User Accounts,” also later in this chapter, for another
use of this dialog.
Manage User Accounts |
Users and
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Use the alternate User Accounts dialog and the Local Users
and Groups window (discussed next) with caution, as both
allow you to disable all accounts with administrator privileges. If this happens, the computer will be completely inaccessible by any administrator, and you’ll probably have to
reinstall just to log in.
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Local Users and Groups
The third way to manage user accounts in Windows is to use the Local
Users and Groups policy editor, shown in Figure 8-3; open the Start
menu, type lusrmgr.msc in the Search box, and press Enter. The Local
Users and Groups window (LUaG) is actually a Microsoft Management
Console (mmc.exe) snap-in, like the Disk Management utility (see
Chapter 1) and the Windows Firewall with Advanced Security window
(Chapter 7), and therefore can be accessed remotely if necessary.
Figure 8-3 shows the LUaG dialog in all its glory.
Figure 8-3. The Local Users and Groups window gives you the most control over user
accounts, but at the expense of a rather sparse and intimidating Registry Editor-like
interface
LUaG is where you manage groups, set the automatic expiration of
passwords, and change the location of a user’s home directory. Just
double-click any entry in the Users or Groups categories to change their
properties. Or, right-click in an empty area of the right pane to add a
new user or group.
A group is a collection of users that can be referenced with a single
name. Groups can be useful when you wish to make a folder accessible
to several users (as described later in this chapter); instead of having to
specify each one individually, all you would need to do is specify the
group. Note that once the group has been set up here, you can use the
User Accounts 2 dialog (described earlier) to assign new or existing
members to that group.
What can be confusing is finding the right place to accomplish a specific
task regarding user accounts. Table 8-1 shows a bunch of different tasks and
where to go to accomplish them.
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Table 8-1. The various places user-account tasks can be performed
Task
User Accounts
User Accounts 2
✓
✓
✓
Add groups
Add users
✓
Assign a user to a group
✓
✓
✓
Change a user’s description
✓
✓
Change a user’s home profile folder
Change a user’s password
✓
Change a user’s picture
✓
✓
✓
Choose a logon script
Copy a user’s profile folder
✓
✓
Assign a user to multiple groups
Change a user’s account name
Local Users
and Groups
✓
Disable a user or group account without
removing it
✓
Export a list of users/groups to a text file
✓
Find Administrator accounts without passwords
✓
Manage network user names and passwords
✓
✓
✓
Modify groups
Password reset disk
✓
Prevent forgotten passwords
✓
Remove almost any user
✓
✓
✓
✓
Rename certain users
✓
✓
✓
Remove a user’s password
✓
Remove any user
✓
✓
Require Ctrl-Alt-Del to log on
Set password expiration
✓
Turn on/off Administrator account
✓
Turn on/off Guest account
✓
Turn on/off User Account Control (UAC)
✓
Turn on/off Welcome screen
✓
Use Fast User Switching
✓
View members of groups
✓
✓
Turn on/off login window
✓
Users and
Security
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For the most part, adding, removing, and modifying user accounts is a fairly
self-explanatory process, so I won’t go into every excruciating detail here.
Security Identifiers (SIDs)
Every user on your machine has a unique Security Identifier (SID), which is
used in conjunction with most of the features discussed in this chapter, such
as permissions and encryption, as well as some of the solutions in other chapters in this book. For example, your personal settings in the Registry
(Chapter 3) are stored in a branch that looks something like this:
HKEY_USERS\S-1-5-21-1727987266-1036259444-725315541-500
The numeric portion is your SID, and is composed of the following elements:
S-r-i-sa-xxxxxxxxxx-yyyyyyyyyy-zzzzzzzzz-uid
where S stands for security identifier, r is the revision level and is always set
to 1, i is the identifier authority, and sa-xxxxxxxxxx-yyyyyyyyyy-zzzzzzzzz is
the subauthority. Finally, uid is the user id.
For example, the identifier authority (i) can tell you something about the type
of user to which an SID corresponds:
•
•
•
•
•
•
S-1-0 ...is an unknown group or a group with no members.
S-1-1 ...is the “world” group that includes all users.
S-1-2 ...is a local user logged into “terminal.”
S-1-3 ...is the creator of an object (file, folder, etc.).
S-1-4 ...is a non-unique user identifier.
S-1-5 ...is a standard user account.
Aside from some of the solutions that use SIDs, they can be an issue if you
clone your machine, at which time you may have to change your SID.
Microsoft’s System Preparation Tool (SysPrep) can be used to do this.
Permissions and Security
Setting the permissions for a file or folder allows you to permit some users to
read or change your files while restricting access to others. Problem is, if you
rely on Vista’s defaults, anyone will be able to read your files and no one will
be able to change them.
So, before you start messing with permissions, you’ll need to turn off Simple File Sharing. Open Control Panel and then Folder Options, choose the
View tab, and turn off the Use Sharing Wizard option at the end of the
Advanced Settings list. Click OK when you’re done.
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Note that permissions can only be used on files and folders stored on NTFS
volumes (see the discussion of NTFS in Chapter 5).
Set Permissions for a File or Folder
Shockingly, Microsoft actually took default permissions seriously when
designing Windows Vista. In previous versions of Windows, everyone with
an account on your PC had access to every file on your hard disk; if you
wanted to protect your private data, you had to take matters into your own
hands. In Vista, defaults are set to protect your private data from other
users, and to protect Windows operating system files from all users.
Of course, no progress is without its price. Some of Vista’s defaults are so
restrictive that they can break certain software not expressly written for
Vista, as described in “Control User Account Control,” later in this chapter.
To give someone access to your files, or to further restrict access, you’ll need
to mess with his or her permissions. Of course, it gets a little confusing
when you realize that there are two different Permissions windows for any
given object (file, folder, printer, etc.).
Object permissions
Right-click any file, folder, drive, Registry key, or printer, select Properties, and choose the Security tab to view or change the permissions for
the selected object(s). These settings affect how the object is accessed by
users on your machine (including you).
Share permissions
Right-click any file, folder, drive, or printer, select Properties, choose
the Sharing tab, click Advanced Sharing, and then click the Permissions button to view or change the share permissions for the selected
object(s). These settings affect whether users on other PCs on your network can read or write to your shared files or print to your shared printers.
Fortunately, all Permissions windows look and work the same; the only difference is their scope. Figure 8-4 shows a typical Permissions window.
Typically, a single entry, “Everyone,” will appear at the top of the list. In the
example in Figure 8-4, only five single users are shown here. Any user not in
the list will not be allowed to view or modify the object.
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Security
Permissions protect files from other user accounts only. If you
walk away from your PC while you’re logged in, for example,
someone else sitting down at your keyboard will have full
access to all your files, regardless of permissions or even
encryption. This is why—when your PC is in a public place,
anyway—it’s a good idea to use the “On resume, display
logon screen” option in the Screen Saver Settings window.
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Figure 8-4. The standard Permissions window allows you to permit or deny access to
other users on your computer or in your workgroup
Select any user in the list, and then use the checkboxes in the list below to
modify the permissions for that user. In this example, members of the Everyone group are allowed to read the selected file, but not allowed to write to it.
Although this window only shows the permissions for one user or group at a
time, you can click Advanced to see a better overview, as shown in
Figure 8-5.
In some cases, when you attempt to remove or modify permissions in the
standard Permissions window (Figure 8-4), Windows will complain about
the fact that the object is inheriting permissions. The reason is the Inherit
from parent option in the Advanced Security Settings dialog shown in
Figure 8-5.
Inheritance and ownership
Inheritance can be confusing at first, but it does save time in the long run.
Essentially, if you set the permissions of a folder, those permissions will
propagate to all of the files and subfolders contained therein (although
Windows will usually ask you whether or not you want this to happen).
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Figure 8-5. Open the Advanced Security Settings window to see all users and permissions
for an object at once
When the permissions for a “parent” folder trickle down to a “child” folder
or file, that child object is said to “inherit” the permissions of its parent
folder. Furthermore, the child’s inherited permissions are locked, at least
until you turn off the aforementioned Inherit from parent option.
The Auditing tab in the Advanced Security Settings window allows you to
log access activity relating to the selected object. Before auditing will work,
you’ll need to set up an auditing policy by opening the Group Policy
window (gpedit.msc). Then, navigate to Computer Configuration\Windows
Settings\Security Settings\Local Policies\Audit Policy, and double-click
any entry in the right pane (such as Audit logon events or Audit privilege
use) to instruct Windows to start keeping track of those events. Later on,
open the Event Viewer (eventvwr.msc) to view the corresponding logs.
Note that settings in the Auditing tab also obey the inheritance scheme
just discussed.
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The Owner tab is used to assume ownership of one or more objects, and can
be the source of a lot of frustration when wrestling with permissions. One of
the means by which Vista maintains its lock on important operating system
files and Registry keys is through ownership; by default, all these systemlevel objects are owned by a user named “Creator Owner.” (See the upcoming sidebar, “What’s the Creator Owner Account?,” for details.) To make
any changes to these objects, you must first assume ownership by selecting
your own name in the list, turning on the Replace owner on subcontainers
and objects option, and clicking OK in all the open Permissions windows.
Only then can you reopen the main Permissions window to set the appropriate
permissions, after which you can make your changes; there are several examples of this procedure throughout this book, particularly in Chapters 3 and 7.
What’s the Creator Owner Account?
From time to time, you’ll see a reference to Creator Owner in the Permissions
window, but if you try to find the account by that name in one of the user
account tools described at the beginning of this chapter, you’ll come up
empty handed.
Why? Because Creator Owner is not an account.
Rather, it’s a generic moniker that protects an object by ensuring that only the
object’s owner can modify it.
Say a user on your PC creates an Excel spreadsheet and puts it in a shared
folder. Then, another user logs in to the same PC and opens the document.
In some cases, and depending on the file’s permissions, the second user won’t
be able to make changes and save the file until he assumes ownership of it.
The subtleties of this scheme can be complex and rather confusing, but luckily, they aren’t particularly important. When that second user clicks the
Owner tab in the Advanced Security Settings window, the Current owner
may be Creator Owner rather than the actual username of the person who
created the file. No matter; the new user just selects his own username from
the list and clicks OK.
Probably the most you’ll see of the Creator Owner entry is when you try to
modify a Registry key and Windows won’t let you until you assume ownership, close all the Permissions windows, and then reopen them to give yourself permission to make the change. See “Prevent Changes to a Registry Key,”
in Chapter 3, for one such example.
Another time when you’d use the Owner tab is when you need to share documents between two Windows installations on the same PC (see “Set Up a
Dual-Boot System” in Chapter 1); in most cases, Windows won’t let you
access such files until you “take ownership” using the Owner tab of this
window.
For another way to manage ownership of files and folders, see the “Take
Ownership from the Command Line” sidebar, next.
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Take Ownership from the Command Line
It’s a real pain to dig down through all those windows to take ownership of a
file, only to have to close them all, and then reopen them to subsequently
change the permissions. If you’re comfortable with the Command Prompt or
you need a way to take ownership from script (see Chapter 9), there are a few
useful tools included with Vista for this purpose.
To assume ownership of a file or folder, use the takeown command. Open a
Command Prompt window, and at the prompt, type:
takeown /f "c:\full_path\myfile.ext"
where c:\full_path\myfile.ext is the full path and filename to take ownership of. Add the /r option—only if you’re specifying a folder name—to also
take ownership of all the folders and files contained therein. Type takeown /?
for more options.
Next, to set Full Access permissions on the file or folder, use the cacls command, like this:
cacls "c:\full_path\myfile.ext" /G your_username:F
where your_username is, obviously, your username.
And for those familiar with Unix, there’s a chown (change ownership) commandline utility (written for NT but works in Vista) available for free at http://www.
thep.physik.uni-mainz.de/~frink/nt.html.
Finally, the Effective Permissions tab is a troubleshooting tool that lets you
view the selected object’s permissions as they pertain to a single user. This is
most useful when dealing with groups of users.
Add new users to the Permissions window
Typically, a single entry, Everyone, will appear at the top of the Group or
user names list in the Permissions window. (Here, Everyone literally means
all users and groups in perpetuity.) More than likely, though, you’ll want to
eliminate the Everyone entry and add only those users (such as yourself)
whom you need to specifically grant access to your stuff.
Start by deleting any unwanted users by selecting them and clicking
Remove. Then, click Add to open the Select Users or Groups window, as
shown in Figure 8-6.
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The first time you use this tool, you’ll probably expect to see a list of all
the users on your PC; unfortunately, Microsoft in its infinite wisdom
decided it would be easier for you to type each user’s account name by hand.
Figure 8-6. New users and groups are added to a Permissions list with this rather
confusing dialog
To add a user, type one or more names in the Enter the object names to select
field; separate multiple names with semicolons.
In the example in Figure 8-6, notice that the third entry,
SCHOOLBUS\Wendell, is unlike the others. While Seth and
Munchie are users on the PC (or in the corporate domain to
which this computer belongs), this third entry shows how
you’d specify a user account on a different machine; in this
case, the user Wendell on the computer SCHOOLBUS is to
be added. The only time you’d likely need to do this is if
Wendell needed to access your shared files remotely (discussed later in this chapter), and you didn’t want to create
an account for Wendell on your own PC.
So, why, in the Select User or Groups window, can you not actually select a
user or group? Why aren’t all the user and group names on your PC listed in
here? Why all the typing? The reason is that this window was originally
designed to accommodate a company-wide network with thousands of
users, and since Microsoft hasn’t made a single change to this interface in at
least seven years, you’ll need to go elsewhere to get a list of users. To see the
users on your own PC, open the User Accounts window in Control Panel, or
use one of the other tools explained at the beginning of this chapter. Or, if
you’re part of a corporate domain, you can click Advanced to search for
users on your network.
When you click OK, Windows will verify the user and group names you’ve
entered, and if all is well, will add them to the Permissions window. Mistype
a name, and you won’t be allowed to leave. (To verify your entries without
closing the window, click Check Names.)
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When you’ve added a new user to the Permissions window (shown previously in Figure 8-4), highlight the user, and selectively click the checkmarks
in the Allow or Deny columns.
Deny entries take precedence over any Allow entries. Say a
user named Surly is part of a group named Duff. If you deny
read access to the Duff group, and then allow read access to
the Surly account, Surly still won’t be able to read the files.
Depending on the type of object you’ve selected, you may see any number of
different types of entries here, such as Full Control, Read, Write and Modify. After playing with the checkmarks, you’ll notice that there is quite a bit
of redundancy in this list; for example, Modify is an umbrella term that
includes Read & Execute, Read, and Write.
For more control over permissions, click Advanced to show the Advanced
Security Settings window (shown earlier in Figure 8-5), select the user with
whom you want to work, and click Edit. The Permission Entry window
shown in Figure 8-7 allows you to fine-tune permissions and allow only
those permissions that are absolutely necessary for the object. When settings most permissions day-to-day, you won’t ever need to use this tool.
When you’re done choosing permissions, click OK. If you’re modifying the
permissions for a folder, Windows may or may not prompt you to have your
changes propagated to all subfolders and files.
How permissions affect software
In most cases, you’ll want to set permissions to protect your files and folders from unauthorized access. But some permissions are necessary to get certain programs to work.
For example, if you’re writing a CGI or ASP program for the IIS web server
(see Chapter 9), you’ll need to set the permissions of your files to give the
Internet Guest Account full access. The Internet Guest Account user account
name is based on the machine name: for a system named SERVER, you’d
enter SERVER\IUSR_SERVER into the Select Users or Groups dialog (as shown
earlier in Figure 8-6).
Of course, you can also use overly restrictive permissions to your advantage
and prevent changes to certain Registry keys, as described in “Lock Your
File Types” in Chapter 3.
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Vista uses this scheme as part of the UAC feature discussed in “Control User
Account Control,” later in this chapter, which is why software not written
especially for Vista won’t know that it’s not allowed to write files to your
PC’s Program Files folder.
Figure 8-7. The Permission Entry window lets you fine-tune permissions
Protect Your Files with Encryption
Encryption effectively adds another layer of protection for your especially
sensitive data, ensuring that a file can only be viewed by its creator (well,
sort of). If any other user—even someone with administrator privileges—
attempts to view the file, she will see only gibberish.
When a file is marked for encryption, the encryption and decryption of the
file are handled by Windows invisibly in the background when its creator
writes and views the file, respectively. The problem is that Windows Vista’s
on-the-fly encryption can be somewhat unpredictable, and security is one
place where you don’t want there to be any guesswork.
Encryption is a feature of the NTFS filesystem (discussed in
“Choose the Right Filesystem” in Chapter 5) and is not available with any other filesystem. This means that if you copy
an encrypted file onto, say, a memory card, USB key, or CD,
the file will become unencrypted, since none of those drives
support NTFS.
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Encrypt an Entire Drive with BitLocker
Vista’s file and folder encryption is a handy way to protect sensitive data, but
mixing encrypted data and unencrypted data on the same drive can lead to
unpredictable results, as described in this section. But if you have the Ultimate or Enterprise edition of Vista, you’ll also have the luxury of using the
BitLocker drive encryption feature.
BitLocker works by placing all the data on your drive into a single, enormous
archive file, and then accessing the file invisibly like a virtual hard disk. You
can access the files on a BitLocker-encrypted drive through Windows
Explorer as though it were any other drive, while Windows handles the
encryption and decryption in the background. The BitLocker approach has
the significant advantage of encrypting Windows and all your system files,
thereby preventing a hacker from cracking your password and breaking into
your account, thus rendering your individual file encryption worthless.
Before you try to use BitLocker, fire up Windows Update and click the View
Update History link to see whether you have the “BitLocker and EFS
enhancements” update from 1/31/2007 or 2/28/2007 (or both). If not, click
the Check for updates link, and in the Windows Ultimate Extras section,
place a checkmark next to any BitLocker updates that appear.
Next, open the BitLocker Drive Encryption page in Control Panel. If you see
an error explaining that a “TPM was not found,” see whether there’s a BIOS
update available for your PC, as described in Appendix A, that supports TPM.
TPM, or Trusted Platform Module, is a chip on your motherboard that’s used to
store the BitLocker encryption key, allowing you to boot off an encrypted drive.
If your BIOS doesn’t support TPM, you can use an ordinary removable USB
flash drive for this purpose. Open the Group Policy Object Editor (click Start
and type gpedit.msc), and then expand the branches to Computer
Configuration\Administrative Templates\Windows Components\BitLocker
Drive Encryption. On the right, double-click the Control Panel Setup: Enable
advanced startup options entry, click Enabled, turn on the Allow BitLocker
without a compatible TPM option, and then click OK.
In order for you to use BitLocker, your hard disk must have at least two partitions (see Chapter 5): one for your operating system, and another “active”
partition — of at least 1.5 Gb in size — used to boot your PC. If your drive
isn’t currently set up this way, start the BitLocker Drive Preparation Tool
(\Program Files\BitLocker\BdeHdCfg.exe) and follow the prompts. When
your drive is ready, open the BitLocker Drive Encryption page in Control
Panel and click Turn on BitLocker.
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Hint: If you don’t have Vista Ultimate, you can do pretty much the same thing
with either FreeOTFE (http://www.freeotfe.org/) or TrueCrypt (http://www.
truecrypt.org/), both of which are free and compatible with all editions of Vista.
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Here’s how to encrypt a file:
1. Right-click one or more files in Windows Explorer and select Properties.
2. Under the General tab, click the Advanced button.
3. Turn on the Encrypt contents to secure data option, click OK, and click
OK again.
See “Add Encrypt/Decrypt commands to context menus,” later
in this section, for a quicker way to encrypt and decrypt files.
4. If you encrypt a folder that contains files or other folders, Windows will
ask you whether or not you want those contents to be encrypted as well.
In most cases, you’ll want to answer Yes. If you decline, the folder’s current contents will remain unencrypted, and only newly created files will
be encrypted. See “The ins and outs of folder encryption,” later in this
chapter, for details.
After a file has been encrypted, you can continue to use it normally. You’ll
never have to manually decrypt an encrypted file in order to view it.
Encrypting a file may not guarantee that it remains
encrypted forever. For example, some applications, when
editing and saving files, will delete the original file and then
recreate it in the same place. If the application is unaware of
encryption, the protection will be lost. The workaround is to
encrypt the folder containing the file rather than the file itself.
If you change the ownership of a file (as described in “Set Permissions for a
File or Folder,” earlier in this chapter) and the file is encrypted, the encryption will remain active for the original owner and creator of the file, even
though that user no longer technically “owns” the file.
Since all users need to access files in certain folders, such as the \Windows
and \Windows\System folders, Windows won’t let you encrypt files and system folders or the root directories of any drives.
Compression, another feature of the NTFS filesystem,
reduces the amount of space consumed by a file or folder.
The rules that apply to compression are more or less the
same as those that apply to encryption. But you cannot
simultaneously use encryption and compression on any
object; turn on one option in the Properties window, and
Windows will turn the other off. See “If in Doubt, Throw It
Out,” in Chapter 5, for more information.
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Highlight encrypted files in Windows Explorer
By default, Windows Explorer visually differentiates encrypted files, which
can be a very handy way to keep track of the scope of your encryption. In
Control Panel, open Folder Options, choose View tab, and turn on the
Show encrypted or compressed NTFS files in color option to use this feature, or turn it off if you want all your filenames to be printed in black text.
Click OK when you’re done.
By default, the names of encrypted files appear in green, while those of compressed files appear in blue (except for icons on the desktop). Note that files
can’t be simultaneously compressed and encrypted (as mentioned in the previous section), so you’ll never see any turquoise, teal, or aquamarine filenames.
Actually, that’s not entirely true. You can customize the color Windows uses
to highlight encrypted filenames by editing the Registry:
1. Open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3).
2. Expand
the branches to: HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\
Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer.
3. Create a new binary value by going to Edit ➝ New ➝ Binary Value, and
type AltEncryptionColor for the name of the new value.
4. Double-click the new AltEncryptionColor value, and then type a code
to indicate the color you’d like to use, following this pattern:
RR GG BB 00
The RGB hex code used here follows the same scheme as RGB codes in
HTML web pages (except for the two trailing zeros), which means you
can use any common color mixer to generate the hex codes for you. For
an excellent, free web-based color mixer, go to http://colormixers.com/
mixers/cmr. Or, if you have Adobe Photoshop, you can match an existing color with the eyedropper tool and grab the code from the # field in
the color mixer window.
For example, to get a nice aquamarine color, you’d type this:
00 B4 C5 00
Here, the first 00 indicates no red, the B4 is the hex code for 180 (out of
255; roughly 70% green), the C5 is the hex code for 197 (about 77%
blue), and then the last two zeros are for good measure. Or, to get the
default green color, type:
00 80 40 00
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By the way, don’t type the spaces; Registry Editor will do it for you.
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5. Likewise, you can customize the color used for compressed filenames by
creating a new binary value named AltColor in this same key, and filling its value data with whatever RGB code you like.
6. Close the Registry Editor when you’re done. The change will take effect
the next time you log in.
Allow others to access your encrypted files
By default, only you can read your own encrypted files. But what if you want
someone else to have access to a file, yet keep your password to yourself and
maintain the file’s encrypted state?
Right-click a file or folder you’ve already encrypted, select Properties, and
under the General tab, click the Advanced button. Click the Details button
to open the User Access window shown in Figure 8-8.
Figure 8-8. This elusive window lets you share an encrypted file with another user while
keeping your password secret and the file’s encryption intact
If the Details button is grayed out (disabled) in the
Advanced Attributes window, it means that encryption isn’t
yet active for the selected file or folder. If you just turned on
the Encrypt contents to secure data option, you need to click
OK here and in the main Properties window, then come
back here before you can click Details.
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To permit another user to access your files, click Add to show the Encrypting File System window.
Now, you won’t necessarily see all the user accounts on your PC here, only
those that already have security certificates. If you don’t see the account you
want to include here, you’ll need to log in to that account and encrypt at
least one file or folder.
If the user doesn’t have an account on your PC, you can either create one, or
you can install the user’s own certificate on your PC by hand. To do this,
ask the user to send you the certificate from her PC. Then, open the Start
menu on your PC, type certmgr.msc, and press Enter to fire up the Certificate Manager. Expand the Personal branch and then select the Certificates
folder. From the Action menu, select All Tasks ➝ Import, and then complete the Certificate Import Wizard by following the prompts.
Note that the Expiration Date shown here represents the date the user’s
security certificate expires, and has nothing to do with the permissions
you’re setting up. No hurry, though; you’ve got at least 100 years.
View someone else’s encrypted files
So, how do you access someone else’s encrypted files without that person’s
permission? (This is an important question to ask if you care about the security of your own data.) If you try to view someone’s encrypted files, you’ll
get an “Access is Denied” error message, as shown in Figure 8-9.
Figure 8-9. Try to access someone else’s encrypted file, and you’ll get this error
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Not even administrators can view files encrypted by other users. However, any
administrator can change any other user’s password, and then subsequently
log in to that user’s account and view (or unencrypt) any of his protected files.
This means that your files won’t be totally secure unless you’re the only administrator on the machine.
There is a little-known side effect to this fact: if the owner of encrypted files
deletes his or her encryption keys, neither the user nor any administrator
will be able to read the encrypted files until the key is reinstalled. See “Back
up your encryption certificates,” later in this chapter, for more information.
The ins and outs of folder encryption
You can also encrypt a folder and all of its contents using the procedure for
files shown earlier. It gets a little more complicated, though, when you mix
and match encrypted and unencrypted files and folders, and it can be difficult to predict what happens to the folders’ contents.
Now, if a file in an encrypted folder is moved into an unencrypted folder, the
file becomes unencrypted. The exception is when you’ve specifically
encrypted the file itself; in this case, the file remains encrypted, no matter
where you put it. Whenever you try to encrypt a file located in an unencrypted
folder, Windows warns you and gives you the option to encrypt the folder as
well (shown in Figure 8-10).
Figure 8-10. Windows displays this warning if you encrypt a file located in an
unencrypted folder
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Be especially careful here, as the default is to encrypt the containing (parent) folder in addition to the selected file, which
can be counterintuitive if you’re accustomed to warnings that
only deal with child objects. Check the Always encrypt only
the file option if you never want to see this warning again.
If you ever inadvertently encrypt your desktop (by encrypting an item on your desktop, and then accepting the default
in this box), the only way to unencrypt it is to open Windows Explorer, and unencrypt the source desktop folder
(usually \Users\{your username}\Desktop).
If an unencrypted file is placed in an encrypted folder, the file will become
encrypted, too. The catch is when one user encrypts a folder and another
user places a file in that folder; in this case, the file is encrypted for the creator of the file, which means that the owner of the folder, the one who originally implemented the encryption, will not be able to read the file.
On the other hand, if the user places a file in a folder, and a different user
comes along and encrypts the folder thereafter, only the user who implemented the encryption will be able to read the file, even though the file is
officially “owned” by that first user.
Add Encrypt/Decrypt commands to context menus
If you find yourself frequently encrypting and decrypting files, having to
repeatedly open the Properties window can be a pain. Instead, follow these
steps to add Encrypt and Decrypt commands to the context menus for every
file and folder:
1. Open the Registry Editor (see Chapter 3).
2. Expand
the branches to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\
Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\Advanced.
3. Create a new DWORD value by going to Edit ➝ New ➝ DWORD (32bit) Value, and type EncryptionContextMenu for the name of the new
value.
4. Double-click the new EncryptionContextMenu value, enter 1 for the Value
data, and click OK.
5. Close the Registry Editor when you’re done. The change will take effect
immediately.
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6. To use this new trick, right-click any unencrypted file in Explorer or on
your desktop, and select Encrypt. Or, right-click an already encrypted
file, and select Decrypt.
If at least one of the selected items is a folder, you’ll have the option of
encrypting only the folder or all the folders contained therein. If encrypting
any individual files, you’ll also be asked if you wish to encrypt only the file
or the parent folder as well.
Back up your encryption certificates
Think of your encryption certificate as the combination to a safe. Forget the
combination, and you can’t open the safe. Likewise, lose your certificate,
and you won’t be able to open your encrypted files.
Windows Vista’s encryption system employs symmetric key cryptography,
which uses the same key to encrypt and decrypt data. Windows generates a
unique key for each user, so that no user can decrypt another user’s data.*
The first time you use encryption on your PC, Vista creates a new encryption certificate for you (if you don’t already have one) and prompts you to
back up your certificate with the window shown in Figure 8-11.
Whether or not you take Windows up on its offer, you can use one of the
two included tools to manage your encryption certificates:
Certificate Manager
Open your Start menu, type certmgr.msc, and press Enter to fire up the
Certificate Manager. Expand the Personal branch and select the Certificates folder to view the certificates installed on your PC. The one used
for NTFS encryption is labeled Encrypting File System in the Intended
Purposes column. View any certificate by double-clicking it.
You can back up a certificate by highlighting it and then selecting All
Tasks ➝ Export from the Action menu. Just save the file to a USB memory key or CD so it’s safe in the event that your hard disk crashes and
you need to install a second copy of Windows to access your data. (This
is the same thing that happens if you click Back up now (recommended) when you see the prompt in Figure 8-11.)
If you need to, you can install a backed-up encryption certificate on any
PC—and thus read the files encrypted with it—by importing it as
described in “Allow others to access your encrypted files,” earlier in this
chapter.
* The classic example of cryptographic keys is how Julius Caesar encoded messages to his allies.
Each letter in the message was shifted by three: A became D, B became E, C became F, and so on.
Only someone who knew to shift the letters back by three could decode the messages. Cryptographic keys work the same way, except they’re slightly more complicated.
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Figure 8-11. The first time you use encryption on your PC, you’ll be prompted to back up
your encryption certificate (key) so you can access your protected files even if you reinstall
Windows
NTFS Encryption Utility
The NTFS Encryption Utility (cipher.exe) lets you encrypt or decrypt
files and manage certificates from the Command Prompt, but it’s not
included with all editions of Windows. It does have the added benefit of
being able to perform some tricks that the Certificate Manager, just discussed, cannot.
Open a Command Prompt window (cmd.exe) and type cipher without
any arguments to display the encryption status for all the files in the current folder. (Use the cd command discussed in Chapter 9 to change to a
different working folder.) Encrypted files will be marked with an E; all
others will marked with a U.
To encrypt a file, type cipher /e filename, where filename is the name of
the file or folder (include the full path if it’s in a different folder). Likewise, type cipher /d filename to turn off encryption for the item.
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To back up your certificate, type cipher /r:filename at the prompt,
where filename is the prefix of the output filename (without an extension). Cipher asks for a password, and then generates two separate files
based on the specified filename. For example, if you type cipher /r:
julius, you’ll end up with two files: julius.pfx, which contains the
Encrypting File System (EFS) recovery agent key and certificate, and
julius.cer, which contains the EFS recovery agent certificate only (without the key). Double-click either file in Windows Explorer to import the
certificate or key, or use the Certificate Manager.
Worried that your key got in the wrong hands? You can generate a new key at any time by typing cipher /k (without any
other options). Then, type cipher /u to update the encrypted
files on your system with the new key.
Secure your drive’s free space
Normally, when you delete a file, only the file’s entry in the filesystem table
is deleted; the actual data contained in the file remains in the folder until it is
overwritten with another file.
Cipher, discussed in the previous section, allows you to wipe a folder, which
only means that it goes black and cleans out any recently deleted files, overwriting the leftover data with random bits. This effectively makes it impossible to subsequently recover deleted data with an “undelete” utility. Think of
the wipe feature as a virtual paper shredder.
To wipe a folder, open a Command Prompt window and type cipher /w:
foldername, where foldername is the full path of any folder on the drive to
wipe. Although Cipher requires the path of a folder, it actually wipes all the
free space on the drive. This means that the commands cipher /w:c:\
Romulus and cipher /w:c:\Remus have exactly the same result.
Set up Cipher to wipe folders containing sensitive data at
regular intervals (or when Windows starts) to automatically
protect deleted data. See Chapter 9 for information on the
Scheduled Tasks feature and WSH scripts, both of which can
be used to automate Cipher.
Note that Cipher’s /w option does not harm existing data, nor does it affect
any files currently stored in the Recycle Bin. It also works on unencrypted
folders and encrypted folders alike.
Control User Account Control
For years, Windows-based PCs have been under siege by viruses, spyware,
and adware, concepts introduced in Chapter 6. User Account Control, or
UAC, is Microsoft’s response to this scourge in Windows Vista.
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It works like this: Windows Vista, like its predecessors, supports different
“levels” of user accounts, some with administrator rights—necessary to
install software and configure the system—and others with lesser privileges. But Vista doesn’t give administrators carte blanche like Windows XP
and 2000. Instead, an administrator (you, for instance) operates in a morerestrictive standard user account mode most of the time. Only when you
make a change that supposedly affects other users on your PC (whether
there are any or not), like installing a new hardware driver or changing Windows Firewall settings, does Vista request your permission with the UAC
prompt like the one in Figure 8-12.
Figure 8-12. Every time you (or a program) tries to make a change to your system,
Windows shows you this annoying prompt
If you click Continue, Windows permits the action, and thereafter, it’s
smooth sailing. Or, click Cancel, and Windows forbids the request. As with
any preventive measure, there are costs and benefits to Vista’s UAC.
First, the good:
It can make Windows safer. In theory, nothing bad can happen to your PC
without your approval. This means so-