Catalytic Convection Heater Installation and Operating Manual

Catalytic Convection Heater Installation and Operating Manual
Catalytic Convection Heater
Installation and Operating Manual
Models 2460, 2461, 2462
SAFETY NOTICE
If this heater is not properly installed,
operated, and maintained, a house fire may
result. For safety, follow all installation,
operation and maintenance directions.
Contact local building officials about
restrictions and installation inspection
requirements in your area.
The French language version of this manual is available online: www.vermontcastings.com
La version française de ce manuel est disponible en ligne : www.vermontcastings.com
DO NOT DISCARD THIS MANUAL: Retain for future use
7001135 12/15 Rev. 35
Dutchwest®
The Dutchwest models covered in this Owner’s Guide have been tested and listed by OMNI
- Test Laboratories, Portland, Oregon. The test standards utilized were ANSI/UL 1482 for the
United States and ULC S627 for Canada. Dutchwest models are not listed for mobile home
installations.
PLEASE NOTE
Please read this entire manual berfore you install
and use your new room heater. Failure to follow
instructions my result in property damage, bodily
injury or loss of life. Save these instructions for
future use.
Table of Contents
Accessories
Specifications............................................................. 3
• Bottom Heat Shield
• Clearance-reducing Rear Heat Shields
• Clearance-reducing Heat Shields for single-wall
Installation...........................................................4
Clearances........................................................11
Assembly...........................................................15
Smoke Alarm/Safety Tip....................................16
Operation...........................................................17
Maintenance......................................................21
Replacement Parts............................................29
stove pipe
•
•
•
•
2" legs
Warming shelves (Small and Large Heaters only)
Two-speed convection blower
Automatic thermostat for the blower
Warranty............................................................31
Proposition 65 Warning: Fuels used in gas, woodburning or oil fired appliances, and the products of combustion of such fuels, contain chemicals known to the State
of California to cause cancer, birth defects and other
reproductive harm.
California Health & Safety Code Sec. 25249.6
Patents: U.S. - D288357, 4502395, 4646712;
Canada - 1235969. Other foreign mechanical patents
issued.
2
7001135
Dutchwest®
Specifications
A
D
G
C
F
B
E
Stove Model Number
2460
2461
2462
281⁄4" (717 mm)
A
22" (560 mm)
253⁄4" (654 mm)
B
21" (530 mm)
241⁄2" (620 mm)
27" (690 mm)
C293⁄4" (754 mm)
30"
(760
mm)
33" (840 mm)
1135
1
D
16" (410 mm)
16"
(410
mm)
18
⁄4" (467 mm)
Dutchwest
E143⁄4" (375 mm)
145⁄8" (380 mm)
17" (430 mm)
specs
F263⁄4" (683 mm)
27" (690 mm)
301⁄8" (763 mm)
6/27/00 djt 30" (760 mm)
G293⁄4" (754 mm)
33" (840 mm)
Log length:
19" (480 mm)
22" (560 mm)
25" (640 mm)
Maximum burn time1:
8 hrs.
9 hrs.
12 hrs.
Average area heated (sq. ft.)2: 700-1,400 (65-130m2) 800-1,600 (75-150m2) 1,200-2,400 (112-224m2)
Range of heat output4: 7,800 - 26,800 Btu/hr. 11,300 - 26,800 Btu/hr. 10,500-27,700 Btu/hr5
Maximum heat output:
35,000 Btu/hr.
40,000 Btu/hr.
55,000 Btu/hr.
EPA emissions rating4 (g/h, catalytic):
1.1
1.4
1.3
Efficiency, HHV6
81%77%76%
Weight:
380 lbs. (172 kg)
436 lbs. (198 kg)
634 lbs. (288 kg)
Loading: Side or front
Side or front
Side or front
Flue exit position (reversible):
Top or rear
Top or rear
Top or rear
Air controls: 2 controls
2 controls
2 controls
Fig. 1 Dutchwest Convection Heater specifications.
1. Maximum burn times and heat outputs are based on laboratory testing using full loads of seasoned hardwoods, and may vary in individual use
depending on how the stove is operated, type and moisture content of fuels, and other factors. Maximum burn times are achieved under different
operating conditions than are maximum heat outputs.
2. These values are based on operation in building code-conforming homes under typical Winter climate conditions in the northeastern U.S. If your
home is of nonstandard construction (e.g. unusually well-insulated, not insulated, built underground, or if you live in a more severe or more temperate
climate), these figures may not apply. Since so many variables affect performance, consult your Dutchwest Authorized Dealer to determine realistic
expectations for your home.
4. Under specific conditions used during EPA emissions testing.
5. Based on preliminary results obtained during EPA emissions testing.
6. Efficiency determined by CSA B415.10.
7001135
3
Dutchwest®
Installation
SAFETY NOTICE:
IF YOUR DUTCHWEST CONVECTION HEATER IS NOT
PROPERLY INSTALLED, OPERATED AND MAINTAINED,
A HOUSE FIRE MAY RESULT. FOR SAFETY, FOLLOW
ALL INSTALLATION, OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
DIRECTIONS. CONTACT LOCAL BUILDING OFFICIALS
ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND INSTALLATION INSPECTION REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA.
Before you begin the installation, review your plans to
confirm that:
• Your stove and chimney connector will be far enough from
combustible material to meet all clearance requirements.
• The floor protector is large enough and is constructed
properly to meet all requirements.
• You have obtained all necessary permits from local
authorities.
Your local building official is the final authority for approving
your installation as safe and for determining that it meets
local and state codes.
Clearance and installation information is printed on the
metal label attached to the rear of the stove. Local authorities generally will accept the label as evidence that, when
the stove is installed according to the information on the
label and in this manual, the installation meets codes and
can be approved.
Codes vary in different areas, however. Before starting
the installation, review your plans with the local building
authority. Your local dealer can provide any additional
information needed.
Masonry Chimneys
If you use an existing masonry chimney, it must be inspected to ensure safe condition before the stove is installed.
Your local professional chimney sweep, building inspector,
or fire department official will be able either to make the
inspection or to direct you to someone who can.
An inspection of the chimney must confirm that it has a lining. Do not use an unlined chimney. The chimney should
also be examined for cracks, loose mortar, other signs of
deterioration, and blockage. Repair any defects before the
chimney is used with your stove.
Unused openings in an existing masonry chimney must
be sealed with masonry to the thickness of the chimney
wall, and the chimney liner should be repaired. Openings
sealed with pie plates or wallpaper are a hazard and should
be sealed with mortar or refractory cement. In the event
of a chimney fire, flames and smoke may be forced out of
these unused thimbles.
The chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before use.
A newly-built masonry chimney must conform to the
standards of your local building code or, in the absence
of a local code, to a recognized national code. Masonry
chimneys must be lined, either with code-approved masonry or pre-cast refractory tiles, stainless steel pipe, or
a code-approved, “poured-in-place” liner. The chimney’s
clean-out door must seal tightly.
Prefabricated Double-Wall
Insulated Chimney
Important: Failure to follow these installation instructions
may result in a dangerous situation, including a chimney
or house fire. Follow all instructions exactly, and do not
allow makeshift compromises to endanger property and
personal safety.
Chimney Types
Your Dutchwest Convection Heater must be connected
to a sound masonry chimney that meets local codes, a
relined masonry chimney that meets local codes, or to an
approved prefabricated metal chimney. Whatever kind you
use, the chimney and chimney connector must be in good
condition and kept clean.
Tile Lined
Masonry
Chimney
ST241
Fig. 2 If in sound condition and approved for use, either a masonry or a prefabricated chimney may be used.
ST241
chimney types
12/13/99 djt
4
7001135
Dutchwest®
Prefabricated Chimneys
A prefabricated metal chimney must be one tested and
listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances.
A horizontal connector run should be inclined 1/4” per foot
(20 mm per meter) from the stove toward the chimney.
The recommended maximum length of a horizontal run is 3
feet (1m) and the total length of chimney connector should
be no longer than 8 feet (2.5m).
Chimney Height
For proper draft and good performance, the chimney should
extend at least 16’ (5 m) above the flue collar of the stove.
The chimney must also extend at least 3’ (900 mm) above
the highest point where it passes through a roof, and at
least 2’ (600 mm) higher than any portion of a building
within 10’ (3 m). (Fig. 3)
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE
SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.
0 TO 10'
2' MIN.
3'
MIN.
0 TO 10'
The chimney connector is the single-wall pipe, or listed and
approved double-wall pipe that connects the stove to the
chimney. The chimney itself is a masonry or prefabricated
structure that encloses the flue. Chimney connectors are
used only to make the connection from the stove to the
chimney.
Do not pass the chimney connector through a combustible
wall or ceiling, or through an attic, a closet or any similar
concealed space. If passage through a combustible wall
is unavoidable, follow the recommendations in the following section on Wall Pass-Throughs. Keep the passage
as short and direct as possible, with no more than two 90
degree turns.
Two Types of Connector
You may use either a single-wall steel connector of the
size and gauge described below, or a listed and approved
double-wall connector.
Single-Wall Connector
The single-wall chimney connector should be made of 24
gauge or heavier steel, and must have a minimum internal
diameter of 6” (150 mm) for models 2460 and 2461, or 8”
(200 mm) for model 2462.
Install single-wall chimney connector not less than 18” (450
mm) from the ceiling.
In cathedral ceiling installations, extend the prefabricated
chimney downward to within 8 feet (2.5 meters) of the
stove. The entire chimney connector should be exposed
and accessible for inspection and cleaning.
2' MIN.
3'
MIN.
Reference
Point
AC246
Fig. 3 The 2/3/10 rule for chimneys.
Chimney Size
Guidelines for Installing
the Chimney Connector
AC246
PTL2
4/1/96
The Model 2460 and 2461 heaters should be vented into
a masonry chimney with a square flue with nominal flue
size of 8” x 8” (200 x 200 mm), or a round flue with nominal
flue size of 6” (150 mm). The Model 2462 heater should be
vented into a masonry chimney with a nominal flue size of
8” x 8” (200 mm x 200 mm) square, or 8” (200 mm) round.
Chimney liners larger than 8” x 12” (200 x 300 mm) may
promote rapid cooling of smoke and reduction in draft,
especially if they are located outside the home. These
large chimneys may need to be insulated or have their
flues relined for proper stove performance.
Do not use galvanized chimney connector; it cannot
withstand the high temperatures that can be reached by
smoke and exhaust gases and it may release toxic fumes
under high heat.
Chimney
Flue Liner
Flue
Elbow
Thimble
Slip Pipe
Standard Connector
Flue Collar
Floor Protector
Accessories to help make the connection between stainless
steel chimney liners and the stove are available through
your local dealer.
ST418
Fig. 4 Sections of a steel chimney connector of at least 24 gauge
thickness are fastened together with screws to
ST418
connect the stove to the chimney.
chimney connector
6/00
7001135
5
Dutchwest®
Double-Wall Connector
See the clearance charts on pages 11 and 12.
Information on assembling and installing double-wall connectors is provided by the manufacturer of the double-wall
pipe. Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions
exactly. Most manufacturers of prefabricated double-wall
insulated chimneys also offer double-wall connector pipes.
Using a chimney and connector pipe from the same manufacturer helps simplify the assembly and installation.
NOTE: For installations using double-wall connectors,
minimum clearances must conform to listed clearances
in the Stove and Chimney Connector Clearance Charts
on page 11 and 12 of this manual.
Assembling Single-Wall
Chimney Connector
SAFETY NOTE: Always wear gloves and safety goggles
when drilling, cutting or joining sections of chimney
connector. For double-wall connectors, follow the manufacturer’s
instructions exactly. For single-wall connectors, follow the
instructions below.
1. Insert the crimped end of the first section into the stove’s
flue collar, and keep each crimped end pointing toward the
stove (Fig.5). Using the holes in the flue collar as guides,
drill 1/8” (3 mm) holes in the bottom of the first section of
chimney connector and secure it to the flue collar with three
#10 x 1/2” sheet metal screws.
NOTE: Special slip pipes and thimble sleeves that form
telescoping joints between sections of chimney connector
are available to simplify installations. They can eliminate
the need to cut individual connector sections. Consult your
local dealer about these special pieces.
Securing the Connector
to a Prefabricated Chimney
Follow the installation instructions of the chimney manufacturer exactly as you install the chimney. The manufacturer
of the chimney will supply the accessories to support the
chimney, either from the roof of the house, at the ceiling of
the room where the stove is installed, or from an exterior wall.
Special adaptors are available from your local dealer to
make the connection between the prefabricated chimney
and the chimney connector. (Fig. 6) The top of such
adaptors attach directly to the chimney or to the chimney’s
ceiling support package, while the bottom of the adaptor
is screwed to the chimney connector.
These adaptors are designed so the top end will fit outside
the inner wall of the chimney, and the bottom end will fit
inside the first section of chimney connector. Any soot or
creosote falling from the inner walls of the chimney will
stay inside the chimney connector.
Prefab (Insulated)
Chimney
Toward
Stove
Ceiling Support
Package
Prefab Chimney
Adapter
Chimney Connector
(Stovepipe)
Flue Gas
Direction
ST419
ST242
Fig. 6 Joining the chimney connector to a prefabricated chimney.
Fig. 5 Crimped sections always point toward the stove so that
any liquid condensation will not leak out.
Securing the Connector
ST419
to a Masonry Chimney
Joining the chomney
2. Secure each jointST242
between sections of chimney connecChimney connector
tor, including telescoping
12/13/99 djtjoints, with at least three sheet
metal screws.
The Dutchwest Convection
6/27/00 heaters
djt may be connected
to either a freestanding masonry chimney or a masonry
fireplace chimney.
3. Secure the chimney connector to the chimney. Instructions for various installations follow below.
Freestanding Installations
4. Confirm that the installed stove and chimney connector
are correct distances from nearby combustible material.
6
If the chimney connector must pass through a combustible
wall to reach the chimney, follow the recommendations in
the wall pass-through section that follows.
7001135
Dutchwest®
The opening through the chimney wall to the flue (the
“breech”) must be lined with either a ceramic or metal
cylinder, called the “thimble”, which is securely cemented
in place. (Fig. 7) Most chimney breeches incorporate
thimbles, but check to be sure the fit is snug and the joint
between thimble and chimney wall firmly cemented.
Thimble
Sleeve
Ceramic Flue Liner
Chimney Connector Shield
Block-Off Plate
Flue
Elbow
Masonry Wall
Chimney Connector
Thimble
Keep
Sleeve
End Flush
with Flue
Tile
Chimney
Connector
ST244a
Flue Liner
ST243
Fig. 7 The thimble, made of either ceramic or metal, must be
cemented in place securely.
A special piece called the “thimble sleeve,” slightly smaller
ST243 connector and most thimbles,
in diameter than the
standard
thinble connection
will ease the removal12/13/99
of the chimney
connector system for
djt
inspection and cleaning. Thimble sleeves should be available from your local dealer.
Fig. 8 The connector enters flue above the fireplace. If the
clearance between the chimney connector and either the mantel
ST244aspecial protective shields will
and/or the ceiling is inadequate,
Dutchwest
be required.
fplc over mantel
6/00
Flue Liner
Extend Chimney Connector to the First Tile of
the Flue Liner
To install a thimble sleeve, slide it into the breech until it is
flush with the inner flue wall. Don’t extend it into the actual
flue passage, as that could interfere with the draft.
The thimble sleeve should protrude 1-2" (25-50 mm) into
the room. Use furnace cement and thin gasketing to seal
the sleeve in place in the thimble. Secure the chimney
connector to the outer end of the sleeve with sheet metal
screws.
Fireplace Installations Above the Fireplace
In this installation, the chimney connector rises from the
stove, turns ninety degrees, and goes back into the fireplace chimney. The liner of the fireplace chimney should
extend at least to the point at which the chimney connector
enters the chimney. Follow all the guidelines for installing
a chimney connector into a freestanding masonry chimney,
and pay special attention to these additional points:
• Check the stove and chimney connector clearances to
•
•
combustible mantel or trim materials. Use the necessary combination of mantel, trim, and connector heat
shields to provide the required clearances. (Fig. 8)
Double-check connector clearance from the ceiling.
The fireplace damper must be closed and sealed to
prevent room air from being drawn up the flue, reducing
the draft. However, it must be possible to re-open the
damper to inspect or clean the chimney.
7001135
Observe
Miniumum Clearances
Damper
Plate is
Remvoed
or Locked
in Open
Position
Close Off
the Damper
Opening with
Sheet Metal
and Sealant
ST245a
Fig. 9 The connector passes through the fireplace to enter flue.
Special Fireplace Adapter Kits to simplify fireplace installations
are available from yourST245a
local dealer.
fireplace
flex connector
6/00
Fireplace Installations Through the Fireplace
The Convection heaters may be installed either without
legs* as a fireplace insert, or with standard legs attached
- depending on the safety regulations that apply to your
situation, the height of the fireplace opening and your own
preference. For either situation, the chimney connector/
positive connection kit extends back from the stove, enters the fireplace cavity, and turns upward. It then passes
through the fireplace damper opening and smoke chamber
and connects to the chimney flue.
In such installations, a “positive connection” must be made
to the chimney flue with a special kit available from your
local dealer. Also, special clearance and floor protec-
7
Dutchwest®
tion provisions must be observed. These provisions are
discussed in the Clearance and Floor Protection sections
respectively.
Wall Pass-Throughs
Whenever possible, design your installation so the connector does not pass through a combustible wall. If you
must use a wall pass-through in your installation, check
with your building inspector before you begin and construct
it in accordance with local building codes. Also check
with the chimney connector manufacturer for any specific
requirements.
diameter 2 inches (51 mm) larger than the chimney connector and having 1 inch (25.4 mm) or more of insulation
and maintaining a minimum 2 inch air space between
the outer wall of the chimney and combustibles.
18”
(450mm)
Empty Space
All Around
the Chimney
Connector
Sheet Metal
Cover
(One side
only)
Accessories are available for use as wall pass-throughs.
If using one of these, make sure it has been tested and
listed for use as a wall pass-through.
All combustible material in the wall is cut away a sufficient
distance from the single-wall connector to provide the
required 12" (305 mm) clearance for the connector. Any
material used to close up the opening must be noncombustible.
The following wall pass-through methods may be approved
in your area: • Use a section of listed factory-built chimney with a
nine-inch clearance to combustibles.
• Place a chimney connector pipe inside a ventilated
thimble, which is then separated from combustibles by
six inches (152 mm) of fiberglass insulating material.
12”
(305mm)
Chimney Connector
Fig. 11 Hollow wall pass-through.
DO NOT CONNECT THE HEATER TO ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION DUCT OR SYSTEM.
In Canada: The Canadian
ST421 Standards Association has
hollow
established different guidelines.
Figure 11 shows one
wall pass through
method, in which all combustible
material
in the wall is cut
with noncombust
away to provide the required
6/27/00 18"
djt (450 mm) clearance for
the connector. The resulting space must remain empty.
A flush-mounted sheet metal cover may be used on one
side only. If covers must be used on both sides, each cover
must be mounted on non-combustible spacers at least 1”
(25 mm) clear of the wall. Your Dutchwest dealer or your
local building inspector can provide details of other approved methods of passing a chimney connector through a
combustible wall. In Canada, this type of installation must
conform to CAN/CSA-B365, Installation Code for Solid Fuel
Burning Appliances and Equipment.
NOTE: Do not vent your Dutchwest stove into a factorybuilt (zero-clearance) fireplace. These appliances and
their chimneys are specifically designed as a unit for use
as fireplaces. It may void the listing or be hazardous to
adapt them for any other use.
12”
(305mm)
ST420
Fig. 10 Wall pass-through enclosed with noncombustible
materials.
• If the stove is installed without legs, we recommend
the use of noncombustible tiles or pavers as shims to
allow air flow into the convection air inlets under the
stove. Make sure not to block air slots instove bottom
ST420
with shims or remove fan wall
cover.
pass through
noncombust
• Place a chimney connectorwith
pipe
inside a section of listed
6/27/00
djt
solid-insulated, factory-built
chimney,
with an inside
8
ST421
Floor Protection
A tremendous amount of heat radiates from the bottom plate
of your Dutchwest stove. The floor area directly under and
around the stove will require protection from radiant heat
as well as from stray sparks or embers that may escape
the firebox.
Heat protection is provided through the use of a Vermont
Castings Group Bottom Heat Shield. Spark and ember
protection must be provided by a floor protector constructed
with noncombustible material as specified.
7001135
Dutchwest®
Most installations will require that the bottom heat shield be
attached. Only when the stove is placed on a completely
noncombustible surface such as unpainted concrete over
earth may it be used without the heat shield.
Even when the bottom heat shield is installed, you must
provide special protection to the floor beneath. For installation with the heat shield attached, use a noncombustible
floor protector such as 1/4" non-asbestos mineral board or
equivalent, or 24 gauge sheet metal. The floor protector
may be covered with a decorative noncombustible material
if desired. Do not obstruct the space under the heater.
Protection requirements vary somewhat between the United
States and Canada as follows:
U.S. Installations: The floor protector is required under the
stove and must extend at least 16 inches from the front and
left (loading door) side of the stove, and at least 6 inches
from the right side and rear. (Fig. 12) Refer to Figure 12
for minimum noncombustible floor protection dimensions
for each stove model.
In Canada: a noncombustible floor protector is required
under the heater also. The floor protector must extend 18
inches (457mm) from the front and left (loading door) side
of the stove, and at least 8 inches (203mm) from the right
side and rear. (Fig. 12)
Due to the side loading door, floor protector requirements
call for more protection on the left side than on the right. If
you wish a more balanced look, increase the other side of
the hearth as well. Do not reduce side protection under
any circumstances.
Fireplace Installations
You may install your Dutchwest Convection Heater in an
existing fireplace as a fireplace insert with no legs,* or with
the standard legs attached.
To install the heater without legs as a fireplace insert, the
floor must be completely noncombustible, such as an unpainted concrete floor over earth.
Many fireplaces do not satisfy the “completely noncombustible” requirement because the brick or concrete hearth
in front of the fireplace opening usually is supported by
heavy wooden framing as in Figure 13. Because heat
passes readily through brick or concrete, it can easily pass
through to the wood. As a result, such fireplace hearths
are considered a combustible floor. You may not install a
heater on a combustible hearth without legs. Standard
leg installations must include the bottom heat shield.
The floor protector must also meet standard requirements
for freestanding installations.
B
A
B
A
A
ST422
U.S.Canada
A.
16"
18" (457 mm)
B. 6"
8" (203 mm)
Minimum DimensionsST422
for Noncombustible Floor
floor protection
Protectors (Depth x Width):
6/27/00 djt
Model
2460
2461
2462
U.S.
Canada
38" x 44" 38" x 48"
42" x 52" 42" x 48" (1067mm x 1219mm)
42" x 52" (1067mm x 1320mm)
46" x 56" (1168mm x 1422mm)
Fig. 12 Be sure to follow exactly the floor protection requirements on all four sides of the stove.
7001135
ST423
Fig. 13 Combustible supporting timbers (A) may lie beneath
fireplace hearths; such situations require additional floor protection.
Floor Protection for Fireplace
ST423
Installations with Standard Legs
combustible support
Fireplace installations timbers
with the standard legs and the bottom heat shield must have a floor protector of the same
6/27/00
djt
construction as that specified
for freestanding
installations:
1/4" non-asbestos mineral board or equivalent, or 24 gauge
sheet metal (that may be covered with a decorative noncombustible material if you desire). The floor protector must
extend at least 16" (406 mm) [18" / 457 mm in Canada]
from the front of the stove and from the left (loading door)
side, and at least 6" (152 mm) from the right side and rear.
It must also provide protection beneath any horizontal runs
of the chimney connector, including 2" to either side.
9
Dutchwest®
Many raised hearths will extend less than the required
distance from the front of the heater when it is installed.
In such cases, sufficient floor protection, as described
above, must be added to extend the hearth 16" (406 mm)
[18" (457 mm) in Canada].
Hearth rugs do not satisfy the requirements for floor protection.
connector as well, or a double-wall connector.
Clearances may be reduced only by means approved
by the regulatory authority and in accordance with the
clearances listed in this manual. The charts and sample
installations that follow list all the clearances required for
the various installation configurations of Dutchwest Convection Heaters.
Fireplace insert installations also have specific clearance
requirements to the side walls, side decorative trim, and
fireplace mantel. This information is found in “Fireplace
Installation Clearances” in this section.
REMINDER- FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATIONS
WITHOUT LEGS ARE PERMISSIBLE ONLY IF THE
HEARTH IS COMPLETELY NONCOMBUSTIBLE, SUCH
AS UNPAINTED CONCRETE OVER EARTH.
Keep the Stove a Safe Distance
From Surrounding Materials
Both a stove and its chimney connector radiate heat in all
directions when operating. A safe installation requires that
adequate clearance be maintained between the stove and
nearby combustible materials to ensure that such materials
do not overheat.
Clearance is the distance between either your stove or
chimney connector, and nearby walls, floors, the ceiling,
and any other fixed combustible surface. Keep furnishings
and other combustible materials away from the stove as
well. In general, a distance of 48" (1220 mm) must be maintained between the stove and moveable combustible items
such as drying clothes, furniture, newspapers, firewood,
etc. Keeping those clearance areas empty assures that
nearby surfaces and objects will not overheat.
Safe Ways To Reduce Clearances
Your stove has specific clearance requirements that have
been established through careful research and testing to
UL and ULC standards.
ST424
Fig. 14 Extra floor protection may be required for the fireplace
hearth, even if your stove is installed with the legs and the bottom heat shield.
ST424
dutchwest
Fireplace Installation
on hearth Clearances
6/00
A fireplace installation requires special clearance between
the:
• Side of the stove and the right and left walls
• Side of the stove and the decorative side trim on the
fireplace face
• Top of the stove and the mantel
In addition, both Fireplace Adaptor and Fireplace Insert
installations have special floor protection requirements that
are addressed in the section on Floor Protection.
Clearance requirements have been established to meet
every installation possibility, and they involve the combination of basic variables:
•
•
•
•
•
•
When the stove has no listed heat shield When the stove has a listed heat shield When the wall has no heat shield
When the wall has a heat shield When the stove has a double-wall chimney connector.
When the stove has a single-wall connector wit heat
shields, or without heat shields.
In general, the greatest clearance is required when you
locate a stove with no heat shield near a wall with no heat
shield. The least clearance is required when both the
stove and the wall have heat shields. Reducing a stove
clearance may require a listed heat shield on the chimney
10
M
M
T
S
ST426
Model:
246024612462
Side Walls (S)
20" (510mm) 24" (610mm) 23" (580mm)
Trim (T)
12" (300mm) 12" (300mm) 12" (300mm)
Mantel (M)
20" (510mm) 20" (510mm) 20" (510mm)
ST426
fireplace
Fig. 15 Minimum clearances
for fireplace installation. Recomclearances
mended clearances must be
maintained between stove and the
surrounding combustible components.
7001135
Dutchwest®
Designing a Safe Installation
Clearance Chart Reference Diagrams
The section that follows contains charts with the information
that you’ll need to make your installation safe. Included
are a chart to tell you exactly where to cut the hole in the
ceiling so that the stove will meet clearance requirements,
a chart that gives stove clearances for all installations,
and a chart to illustrate the required sizes of wall shields
for various installations.
Refer to the diagrams below when using the Stove and
Chimney Connector Clearance Chart which follows. For
example, the letter “A” gives the minimum side clearance
for installations in which the stove is not equipped with
a rear heat shield and the wall beside the stove is not
protected. “D” gives the minimum side clearance when
the stove does not have a rear heat shield, but the wall
is protected.
Refer to these charts as you plan the installation and do
not compromise on any of the dimensions listed.
Measure clearance distances from the top plate of the stove
or chimney connector to the wall, not the wall protector.
Unprotected Surfaces
Parallel Installations
B
Protected Surfaces
Corner Installations
C
Parallel Installations
Corner Installations
F
E
A
D
F
C
Installations with no stove heat shields
J
H
G
N/A
N/A
I
Rear exit, rear heat shield installations
L
M
O
K
P
N
M
P
ST255a
Top exit, rear heat shield and chimney connector heat shields or double wall connector
7001135
ST255a
exit diagram
6/30/00 djt
11
Dutchwest®
Stove and Chimney Connector Clearance Charts
Model 2460 Small Convection, and Model 2461 Large Convection:
UNPROTECTED SURFACES
PROTECTED SURFACES
CornerCorner
Parallel Installations
Installations
Parallel Installations
Installations
Stove Clearance
SideRearCornerSideRear
Corner
No heat shields
[A] 22" (560 mm) [B] 24" (610 mm) [C] 18" (460 mm) [D] 12" (300 mm)[E] 14" (360 mm) [F] 10" (250 mm)
Rear exit, rear h.s.
[G] 22" (560 mm) [H] 14" (360 mm)
Top exit1, rear h.s. Single-wall connector
No connector h.s.
[K] 22" (560 mm) [L] 24" (610 mm) [M] 18" (460 mm)[N] 12" (300 mm) [O] 14" (360 mm) [P] 10" (250 mm)
Top exit1,2 , rear h.s.
Single-wall connec-
tor with connector h.s.
Top exit1 , rear h.s.
Double-wall connector
N/A
[I] 12" (300 mm)[J] 12" (300 mm)
N/A
[K] 22" (560 mm) [L] 14" (360 mm)
[M] 15" (380 mm) [N] 12"(300 mm) [O] 12" (360 mm) [P]8"(200mm)
[K] 22" (560 mm) [L] 19" (480 mm)
[M] 15" (380 mm)
[N] 12" (300 mm [O] 11" (280 mm) [P] 8" (200 mm)
Chimney Connector Clearance:
Single-wall connector
No connector h.s
19" 480 mm)
9" (230 mm)
Single-wall2 connector
With connector h.s.
9" (360 mm)
7" (180 mm)
Double-wall connector
14" (360 mm)
6" (150 mm)
Front Clearance to Combustibles:
48" (1220 mm) (All Installations)
Model 2462 Extra-Large Convection:
UNPROTECTED SURFACES
PROTECTED SURFACES
CornerCorner
Parallel Installations
Installations
Parallel Installations
Installations
Stove Clearance
SideRearCornerSideRear
Corner
No heat shields
[A] 20" (510 mm) [B] 23" (580 mm) [C] 18" (460 mm) [D] 18" (460 mm) [E] 18" (460 mm)[F] 17" (430 mm)
Rear exit, rear h.s.
[G] 20" (510 mm) [H] 18" (460 mm)
Top exit1, rear h.s. Single-wall connector
No connector h.s.
[K] 20" (510 mm) [L] 23" (580 mm) [M] 18" (460 mm) [N] 18" (460 mm) [O] 18" (460 mm)[P] 17" (430 mm)
Top exit1,2,3,4 , rear h.s.
Single-wall connec-
tor with connector h.s.
Top exit1 , rear h.s.
Double-wall connector
N/A
[I] 18" (460 mm) [J] 12" (300 mm)
N/A
[K] 20" (510 mm) [L] 18" (460 mm) [M] 17" (430 mm) [N] 18" (460 mm) [O] 12" (300 mm)[P]15"(380mm)
[K] 20" (510 mm) [L] 14" (360 mm) [M] 16" (410 mm) [N] 18" (460 mm) [O] 12" (300 mm)[P] 15" (380 mm)
Chimney Connector Clearance:
Single-wall connector
No connector h.s
18" (460 mm)
13" (330 mm)
Single-wall2 connector
With connector h.s.
13" (330 mm)
7" (180 mm)
Double-wall connector
8" (200 mm)
6" (150 mm)
Front Clearance to Combustibles:
48” (1220 mm) (All Installations)
1. Shielding for a top exit stove must include a shield insert to protect the
area behind the flue collar.
2. Chimney connector heat shields must extend exactly 24" (610 mm)
above the flue collar of the stove.
3. Model 2462 Only: All installations using single wall connector pipe with
connector heat shield straight up to a factory built chimney require a 24"
(610 mm) diameter or square ceiling heat shield. The ceiling heat shield
12
should be 24 gauge sheet metal or equivalent mounted on 1" (25 mm)
non-combustible spacers 1" (25 mm) below ceiling.
4. Chimney connector heat shields must extend to within 1" (25 mm) or
less of the ceiling heat shield for installations venting straight up to a factory-built chimney. In top exit installations using an elbow to vent to the rear,
the chimney connector must be shielded over the entire vertical length.
5. If a single-wall oval-to-round adaptor is used, a shield must be used to
protect combustibles to the rear of the adaptor.
7001135
Dutchwest®
Distance from Center of Flue Collar to Wall in Top-Exit Installations
Dutchwest Convection Heaters equipped with rear heat shields
NOTE: These are not clearance distances. These measurements indicate where the centerline of the flue collar will be for
various installations. Measurements are from the centerline of the flue collar to the wall, not the wall protector. 
A
B
C
D
E
F
ST427
UNPROTECTED SURFACES
PROTECTED SURFACES
ST427
CornerCorner
dutchwest Installations
Parallel Installations
Parallel Installations
Installations
Chimney Connector
flue centerlineCornerSideRearCorner
SideRear
6/30/00 djt
MODEL 2460 (Small Convection)
Listed, Approved
Double-wall
[A] 33" (840 mm)
[B] 18" (460 mm) [C] 25" (640 mm)
[D] 23" (580 mm) [E] 10" (250 mm) [F] 15" (380mm)
Single Wall, with
Connector Heat Shields [A] 33" (840 mm)
[B] 13" (330 mm) [C] 22" (560 mm)
[D] 23" (580 mm) [E] 11" (580 mm) [F] 15" (380 mm)
Single Wall, without
Connector Heat Shields [A] 33" (840 mm)
[B] 23" (580 mm) [C] 25" (640 mm)
[D] 23" (580 mm) [E] 13" (330 mm) [F] 17" (430 mm)
MODEL 2461 (Large Convection)
Listed, Approved
Double-wall
[A] 35" (890 mm)
[B] 18" (460 mm) [C] 27" (690 mm)
[D] 25" (640 mm) [E] 10" (250 mm) [F] 17" (430 mm)
Single Wall, with
Connector Heat Shields [A] 35" (890 mm)
[B] 13" (330 mm) [C] 24" (610 mm)
[D] 25" (640 mm) [E] 11" (280 mm) [F] 17" (430 mm)
Single Wall, without
Connector Heat Shields [A] 35" (890 mm)
[B] 23" (580 mm) [C] 27" (690 mm)
[D] 25" (640 mm) [E] 13" (330 mm) [F] 19" (480 mm)
MODEL 2462 (Extra-Large Convection)
Listed Approved
Double-Wall
[A] 35" (890 mm)
[B] 13" (330 mm) [C] 26" (660 mm)
[D] 33" (660 mm) [E] 11" (280 mm) [F] 25" (640 mm)
Single Wall, with
Heat Shields
[A] 35" (890 mm)
[B] 17" (430 mm) [C] 29" (740 mm)
[D] 33" (840 mm) [E] 11" (280 mm) [F] 25" (640 mm)
Single Wall, without
Heat Shields
[A] 35" (890 mm)
[B] 22" (560 mm) [C] 33" (840 mm)
[D] 33" (840 mm) [E] 17" (430 mm) [F] 27" (690 mm)
7001135
13
Dutchwest®
Wall Heat Shield Dimensions
Dutchwest Convection Heaters, Models #2460 (Small), #2461 (Large), and #2462 (Extra Large)
60”
(1525mm)
Top Exit
48”
(1220mm)
48”
(1220mm)
Rear Exit
ST428
36” (910mm)
Centered Behind Stove
Spaced 1”
(25mm)
from Floor
Spaced 1”
(25mm)
from Floor
60” (1525mm)
ST429
Fig. 17 Sidewall protection.
Fig. 16 Rear wall protection.
ST428
rear wall protection
7/00
ST429
sidewall protection
7/00
Wall Shields
Meet at
Corner
60”
(1525mm)
48”
(1220mm)
Spaced 1”
(25mm)
from Floor
ST430
Fig. 18 Corner wall protection.
14
ST430
corner wall protection
7/00
7001135
Dutchwest®
Assembly
Your convection heater requires some assembly. Follow
the directions carefully and refer to the parts diagram at
the back of this manual.
Left Leg
Door
Handle
Holder
CAUTION: The Dutchwest Convection Heater is very heavy.
To prevent personal injury or damage, either to the stove or
your home, have two or more people to help move it.
Unpack the Parts
Remove all loose parts from the firebox and the ash pan.
Check to make sure all the parts are included and intact.
You should have received:
• 1 fully assembled heater body, (with catalytic burner
installed at the factory)
• 4 legs (may be pre-attached by the manufacturer)
• 1 ash pan
• 1 probe thermometer
• 1 handle assembly
• 1 strip of Interam™ gasket (for the catalytic burner)
• 1 hardware bag, containing the following parts:
• (3) #10 x 1/2" sheet metal screws, (to attach the
chimney connector to the flue collar)
•  (1) 1/8" Allen wrench, (to tighten the door latch)
• (1) 5/32" Allen wrench, (to tighten the damper handle)
• (4) washers, (used with the leg bolts to attach legs to
the stove)
• (1) door handle insert holder for storing the handle
assembly when it is not in use.
The four hex-head leg bolts have been installed in the appropriate holes in the bottom of the stove.
If any parts are missing or damaged, immediately notify
your Dutchwest dealer for replacements. Do not install
your stove without having all necessary parts or by using
damaged parts.
* A Bottom Heat Shield is required in many installations.
Refer to the floor protection information found in the
Installation Section of this manual.
Heat
Shield
Bracket
Hex Head Bolt
& Washer
ST431
Fig. 19 To attach the legs, remove the bolts from the stove bottom and reassemble with the handle holder, heat shield brackets
(if necessary) and washers.
3. Slide the leg into position
ST431 around the bolt and fasten it
finger-tight. Repeat dutchwest
this process for all four (4) legs.
attach legs
4. Fasten, finger-tight, 7/5/00
the bottom
heat shield to the brackdjt
ets using the four (4) 1/4-20 x 1/2" bolts with nuts.
IMPORTANT: For heat shields with one side painted, the
unpainted, reflective side should always face the stove
to properly reflect the heat and fulfill its protective function.
5. Adjust the bracket’s position on each leg as needed
until the shield fits. (Fig. 20)
6. Use a 7/16" wrench to tighten the shield securely to
the brackets and a 9/16" wrench to tighten the leg bolts
securely to the stove.
7. Carefully raise the stove onto its legs.
If your stove was not shipped with legs -
Attach the Legs and Bottom Heat Shield
NOTE: If heat shields are not properly installed and maintained, a house fire may result. For safety, follow these
instructions. Contact local building officials about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your area.
1. Place the stove on its back. Tilt it carefully, it is heavy.
Use 4 x 4 blocking to make it easier to tilt the stove.
Protect surrounding flooring.
2. The tops of the legs are slotted. Remove each leg bolt
from the bottom of the stove and then replace it with a
heat shield bracket and a washer. Place the door handle
insert holder on the bolt for the left rear or either front
leg. (Fig. 19)
Bottom Heat Shield
ST912
Fig. 20 Bottom heat shield in place on bottom of stove.
15
7001135
St912
Dutchwest®
Smoke and CO Detectors
The use of smoke and carbon monoxide (CO) detectors
throughout the home is strongly advised, even if not required by building codes or insurance regulations. It is
a good idea to install a smoke detector in the living areas and each bedroom. Follow the smoke/CO detector
manufacture's placement and installation instructions and
maintain regularly.
You may not, however, wish to install a detector in the immediate vicinity of the stove. Depending on the sensitivity
of the unit, the alarm can be set off while you are tending
the fire or emptying the ashes. If you install a detector in
the same room, locate it as far away from the stove as
possible.
Safety Tips
Conveniently locate a "Class A" fire extinguisher to contend with small fires. Be sure the fire extinguisher works
and is clearly visible. All occupants of the house should
know where it is, and how it operates. Have heavy stove
gloves available near the stove. Have special safety accessories (e.g., Child Guard Screen) available for use if
small children will be in the home.
In the event of a stove pipe or chimney fire….
• Evacuate the house immediately
• Notify the fire department
• If the fire isn't too threatening, closing down the stove
tight, (damper, primary air, all doors) will help to smother the fire.
• Inspect your stove, stove pipe and chimney for any
damage caused by the fire and correct any damage
before using your stove again.
16
7001135
Dutchwest®
Operation
Heater Controls and Features
Air Controls
WARNING
The Dutchwest Convection Heater has two air controls that
regulate the amount of air drawn into the stove. Generally,
more air entering the stove allows the fire to burn hotter and
faster, while less air decreases heat output while prolonging
the overall burn time.
This wood heater has a manufactured-set minimum low
burn rate that must not be altered. It is against federal
regulations to alter this setting or otherwise operate this
wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating
instructions in this manual.
The Primary Air control lever is located at the lower front
edge of the left side (looking from the front of the stove).
(Fig. 21) The lever operates the two air inlet shutters which
are on the front of the stove. Opening the inlet shutters
provides air for primary combustion.
Damper
Secondary
Air Inlet
Side Loading
Door
Primary
Air Control
Lever
Air Inlet
Shutter
Pull Control
Lever Forward
to Open Air
Shutters
ST433
Fig. 22 Opening the primary air supply.
Front
Loading Door
ST432
Fig. 21 The heater controls.
To open the shutters, turn the lever counterclockwise. The
shutters are all the way open when the lever points toward
the front at a ”4:30” position. (Fig.ST432
22) To close the shutters,
turn the lever clockwise. The shutters
are fully closed when
Dutchwest
the lever points straight down. (Fig. 23)
ST433
Dutchwest
primary air
8/28/00 djt
heat control
The secondary air inlet, over the side door, admits air to
8/28/00
djt at high
the catalytic combustor only, for
high efficiency
combustor temperatures. Use a gloved hand or the metal
tip of the door handle to adjust this inlet. Opening or closing this inlet will not strengthen the fire; generally this inlet
should be about one turn open for low fires, and 11⁄2 to 2
turns for medium and high fires.
ST434
Fig. 23 Closing the primary air supply.
17
7001135
ST434
Dutchwest®
Damper Function
The Damper is operated by moving the handle on the upper
left side of the stove. (Fig. 24) It has two positions: OPEN,
to start the fire and load fuel, and CLOSED, for greatest
efficiency and heat. When the damper is closed, exhaust
gases pass through an insulated catalytic burner before
flowing into the chimney.
Use the door insert handle to rotate the damper handle.
Turn it counterclockwise to open the damper and clockwise
to close it. You will feel resistance as the damper mechanism engages into the open (counterclockwise) position.
The stove damper must be open when you start a fire, load
fuel, or before you open either door for any reason.
Load Doors
A Side Loading Door allows the easiest loading of wood
logs. The Front Door opens for adding an occasional log
to the fire. Always be sure to open the stove damper before
opening either door.
Successful Wood Burning
Woodburning is often said to be more of an art than a
science. You’ll easily master the art if you start by using
good, dry fuel and by understanding how the stove’s air
supply system operates.
Burn Only High-Quality Fuel
Your heater is designed to burn natural wood only. Do
not burn other fuels. Never burn pressure-treated wood,
painted or stained wood, or glossy newsprint.
IMPORTANT: Do not burn any type of artificial or synthetic materials such as fire starter logs (containing
Open
Door Insert Handle
Closed
wax) in this appliance. Never burn liquid-based fuels
such as kerosene, gasoline or alcohol.
Burning any materials not allowed in these instructions, or over-firing the stove, may void the warranty.
High efficiencies and low emissions are possible when
burning air-dried, seasoned woods as compared to softwoods or freshly cut hardwoods. Avoid burning “green”
wood that has not been properly seasoned. Do not burn
construction materials; they often contain chemicals and
metals that can damage the catalytic combustor or pollute
the air. Do not burn ocean driftwood; when it burns, the salt
it absorbs will attack the cast iron.
The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech, ash,
and hickory that has been split, stacked, and air-dried outside under cover for at least one year. If hardwood is not
available, tamarack, yellow pine, white pine, Eastern red
cedar, fir, and redwood are softwoods that are commonly
burned. They too should be properly dried. The length of
the wood should be the same as that specified for your
particular stove. Avoid using wood that has been dried
more than two years. Often gray in color, this wood burns
very quickly, resulting in short burn time and diminished
stove performance. If you must burn it, mix it in with greener
wood to slow the burn.
Store your firewood under cover to keep it dry. Even for
short-term storage, keep wood a safe distance from the
heater and keep it clear of the areas around the heater
used for refueling and ash removal.
Use the Air Control Settings
that Work Best for You
No single combination of control settings will fit every situation. Each installation will differ depending on the quality
of the fuel, the amount of heat desired, and how long you
wish the fire to burn.
Control settings also depend on your particular installation’s “draft,” or the force that
moves air from the stove up through the
chimney. Draft is affected by such things as
the height, type, and location of the chimney,
local geography, nearby obstructions, and
other factors.
Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in the stove. On the other hand,
too little draft can cause backpuffing into the
room and/or the “plugging” of the chimney
and catalytic burner.
ST435
ST436
Fig. 24 Damper operating positions.
18
ST435
dutchwest
damper open
ST436
dutchwest
damper closed
How do you know if your draft is excessively
high or low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncontrollable burn or a glowing-red
part of the stove or chimney connector. A
sign of inadequate draft is smoke leaking
into the room through the stove or chimney
connector joints.
7001135
Dutchwest®
When first using the stove, keep a record of the results
you achieve from different control settings. You will find
that specific control settings will give you a fixed amount of
heat. It may take a week or two to determine the amount of
heat and the length of burn you should expect from various
control settings.
In such instances, an open window near the stove on the
windward side of the house (side against which the wind
is blowing) will provide the fresh air needed.
Notice that the probe thermometer on the stove top tells you
the temperature of the catalytic burner only; it does not tell
you how hot the firebox is. Normal range for the catalyst is
600 to 1400˚ F (315 to 760˚C ). The catalyst temperatures
are very intense (far more intense than any other part of
the stove) but they are also very localized.
DO NOT OPERATE THE STOVE WITH THE ASH DOOR
OPEN. OPERATION WITH THE ASH DOOR OPEN CAN
CAUSE AN OVERFIRING CONDITION TO OCCUR.
OVERFIRING THE STOVE IS DANGEROUS AND CAN
RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, INJURY, OR LOSS
OF LIFE.
You should put a magnetic surface thermometer on the
side door. This is the only single-thickness area of the
firebox, and it’s a handy location since you’ll use the side
door more than any other.
The normal range of firebox temperatures is 400 to 650˚
F (190 to 330˚ C). Temperatures below this range can encourage creosote formation in the stovepipe and chimney;
higher temperatures can cause stove parts to burn out
prematurely. Always operate the stove according to firebox
temperatures. Besides the air control, you can manage the
stove’s heat output and burn time by how much wood you
load at at a time.
Primary Air
Catalyst Air
Use the air control settings indicated in Figure 24 as a
starting point to help determine the best settings for your
installation.
How to Build and Maintain a Wood Fire
Loading Wood
Your Dutchwest Convection Heater accepts wood from both
the front and side. Front loading is useful for kindling a new
fire and adding an occasional log, however, we recommend
side loading as most convenient when adding several logs
at a time. Always be certain that the stove damper is open
before opening either door.
WARNING: OPERATE YOUR DUTCHWEST CONVECTION HEATER ONLY WITH THE DOORS FULLY CLOSED
EXCEPT WHEN REFUELING.
THIS STOVE IS HOT WHILE IN OPERATION! KEEP
CHILDREN, CLOTHING, AND FURNITURE AWAY. CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS.
Break-in Fires
Low
1/2 turn open
Medium11⁄2 turn open
High
High11⁄2 to 2 turns open
Med.
Closed Low
Position of primary air control
lever for different burn rates.
Number of turns the air control
is open for different burn rates.
Fig. 25 Primary and Catalyst air settings.
Notice that changes in the weather have a strong effect
on chimney draft. Higher outdoor temperatures and lower
air pressure both weaken draft; lower temperatures and
higher air pressure encourage a stronger draft. An exception to this is in installations with outdoor chimneys; since
these lose heat to the outdoors, it takes longer to warm
them up initally, and it takes more heat to keep them warm,
especially during very low temperatures outdoors.
Most installations do not require a large amount of combustion air, especially if adequate draft is available. Do
not attempt to increase the firing rate of your heater by
altering the air control adjustment range outlined in these
directions.
In some newer homes that are well insulated and weathertight, poor draft may result from insufficient air in the house.
7001135
If your stove is new or has new cast iron replacement
parts, “season” the new cast iron with a few break-in fires.
Follow Steps 1-3 below. Then let the fire burn out. Do not
close the damper. Maintain a small, but not smoky, fire by
adjusting the primary air control. After the break-in fires,
continue with Step 4.
The stove’s paint and cement will emit a slight odor as these
materials cure during the first few fires. You may wish to
provide extra ventilation near the stove by partially opening
a door or window when the odor is present.
Lighting the Fire
Step 1. Open the stove damper. Fully open the primary
air control and close the secondary (catalyst) air control.
Step 2. Lay some crumpled newspapers in the stove.
Place six or eight finger-width size pieces of dry kindling
on the paper. On the kindling, lay two or three larger sticks
of split dry wood approximately 1-2” (25-50 mm) thick.
DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS TO START THE
FIRE. DO NOT BURN GARBAGE OR FLAMMABLE FLUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPTHA, OR ENGINE OIL.
Also, never use gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or “freshen up”
a fire in this heater. Keep all such liquids well away from
the heater while it is in use.
19
Dutchwest®
Step 3. Light the newspaper and close the door. The fire
should be well-established within 10-15 minutes. You may
gradually build it up by adding a few sticks at a time of a
progressively larger size. Continue to build the fire until a
live coal bed begins to form.
NOTE: Effectiveness of a “top-down” method to start a fire.
Smoke emissions when starting a fire can be difficult to
control because the stove is not yet heated to its optimum
temperature. One method of reducing emissions during a
cold start-up is the use of a “top-down” kindling procedure.
In this, place larger pieces of kindling on the bottom of the
kindling pile followed by smaller and smaller pieces as the
pile is added to. Very finely split pieces should be on the
top. Light the kindling pile with a match at the top and allow
the kindling to burn downward into the larger pieces. This
reduces smoke by slowly increasing the fire size without
creating an air-starved condition.
NOTE: An especially large, outdoor, or cold chimney
may need to be “primed,” or warmed up, before it will
draw sufficiently to start a fire. If this is the case, roll up
a couple pieces of newspaper, place them on top of the
kindling and toward the back of the stove, light them, and
close the doors. This should heat the chimney enough to
initiate a draft.
Once the draft is established, open the front door and light
the rest of the fuel from the bottom. Do not light the main
bed of fuel until the chimney begins drawing. Repeat the
procedure as often as necessary if the initial attempt is
unsuccessful.
Step 4. After a lively fire has been established, (approx.
30 minutes) close the stove damper.
Step 5. Close the primary air control to a medium low
setting. The fire volume will diminish immediately, but the
stove will continue to warm up. Maintain control of the
fire using the primary air control. Reduce the setting for a
smaller fire, increase the setting for a hotter, more intense
fire. Refer back to the air control settings chart on page 19.
Step 6. Open the catalyst air control. Refer back to the
air control settings chart on page 19.
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overfiring may
cause a house fire, or can result in permanent damage to
the stove. If a part of the stove or the chimney connector
glows, you are overfiring.
reestablished, close the damper and reduce the air supply
to prevent over-firing.
Further suggestions...
* If the charcoal bed is relatively thick and your fuel is
well-seasoned, it is possible to add fresh fuel (smaller
pieces first), close the door and damper, and reset the air
control within five minutes.
* When refueling, avoid breaking the charcoal bed into
small pieces. Large pieces of charcoal help the fire recover quickly.
* The glass will remain cleaner if refueling is done when
the previous load of fuel has burned down to hot, glowing
coals. Use a crumpled piece of dry newspaper to wipe fly
ash buildup off of the glass. Do not use liquid cleaning
agents of any type on hot glass.
Remove Ashes Frequently
Wear heavy stove gloves when removing ashes. Check the
ash compartment before reloading the stove. If the ashes
are close to the top, empty the pan. Before replacing the
ash pan, clear away any ash that has spilled over the sides
and back of the ash pan.
Empty the ash drawer regularly - typically every one to
three days. The frequency will vary depending on how hot
you run your stove: the hotter the fire, the more wood you
burn, and the faster ash will accumulate.
Safe Ash Handling
Ash may contain hot coals and must be treated with extreme
care. Ashes should be placed outdoors in a metal container
with a tight-fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should
be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground, well
away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal.
If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise
locally dispersed, keep them in the closed container until all
cinders have thoroughly cooled. Wood ash may be used
as a garden fertilizer.
CAUTION: Never use a vacuum cleaner to remove ash from
the stove; always remove and dispose of the ashes properly.
Reloading and Reviving the Fire
Open the stove damper and wait at least thirty seconds
for the draft to increase. Open the door slowly and add
the fuel. Split firewood will fill the firebox more completely
than will unsplit wood and will thereby reduce the frequency
of reloading.
You may find that the fire intensity will decrease after reloading, particularly if the loading door is open a long time.
Stimulate the fire by increasing the primary air supply and
leave the stove damper open. Then as soon as the fire is
20
ST437
Fig. 26 Hot ashes can be dangerous and must be stored outdoors on a noncombustible surface in a metal container with a
tight-fitting lid.
ST432
Dutchwest
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Dutchwest®
Maintenance
Keep Your Stove Looking New
and Working Its Best
Care of the Cast Iron Surface
An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the painted
cast iron of your Dutchwest Convection Heater looking new.
If the paint needs retouching, allow the stove to cool completely. Wire-brush areas needing to be painted. Remove
non-painted components such as air controls or cover
them with masking tape. Touch up the stove with high
temperature stove paint available from your local dealer.
Apply the paint sparingly. Two light coats are better than
one heavy one.
Cleaning the Glass
You will find that most of the carbon deposits on the glass
will burn off regularly during hot fires. You can wipe fly
ash from the glass when hot using a crumpled piece of
dry newspaper. Never use liquid cleaning agents on
hot glass. If you wish to clean the glass more thoroughly,
follow this procedure:
2. Use the allen wrench (included with the stove) to turn
the striker screw clockwise one quarter-turn and close
the door to test the engagement. The door latch should
engage tightly when closed. Make further adjustments
in small increments.
3. When the striker screw is properly adjusted, tighten the
small locking nut against the pawl without allowing the
striker screw to turn.
Test And Repair the Door Gaskets
Air leaks can be caused by low spots in the door gaskets.
To locate such low spots, close each door on a slip of paper
and attempt to pull the paper free. If the paper slips out
without tearing, the gasket isn’t snug enough at that spot.
If the seal cannot be improved by adjusting the door latch,
try shimming the gasket. Pack a small quantity of cement
or a smaller diameter gasket into the channel beneath
the gasket to lift the main gasket and thereby improve its
contact with the door frame.
If shimming does not improve the seal, replace the gasket
following these steps:
• Be sure the glass is completely cool.
• Use a glass cleaner especially made for this purpose.
Remove the old
gasket by pulling
gently, but firmly.
• Dry the glass completely.
Adjust the Door Latch
The door latches must close tightly to ensure a good seal
between the each door and the stove plates. With time
and use, the door latches will require periodic adjustment.
Follow this procedure: (Fig. 27)
1.Loosen the small locking nut with an open end
wrench.
Small Locking Nut
Striker
Screw
ST440
Door
1. Remove the original gasket by grasping an end and
pulling firmly.
2. Wearing safety goggles, use a wire brush or the tip of
a screwdriver to clean the channel of any remaining
cement or bits of gasket.
3. Apply a thin bead of stove cement in the newly-cleaned
groove.
4. Lay the gasket into the groove. Wait until you are a
couple inches from the end before you cut it.
5. Test the gasket by closing the door on a slip of paper as
described above. Adjust the gasket in any areas where
an inadequate seal is evident.
ST440
dutchwest
door gasket
7/7/00 djt
Pawl
Large Locking Nut
Set Screw
ST439
Fig. 27 Door latch adjustment.
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Fig. 28 Door gasket.
All rope-type gasketing used in the Dutchwest Convection
Heater is made of fiberglass. The gasketing is
7/16”
ST439
dutchwest
21
Dutchwest®
diameter for front and side doors and the ash door and
3/8” for the top plate. 1/4” gasketing is used behind the
glass.
Repair Missing Cement in Seams
The cement in the stove seams may deteriorate over time
and fall out in places. Just as with the stove doors, it is
necessary to keep the seam seals in good condition. Spotfix with furnace cement (available from your local dealer)
any areas where the cement seal is visibly deteriorated.
Allow 24 hours for the new cement to dry after “washing
down” seams.
Avoid Damaging the Glass Door Panel
Do not abuse the glass by slamming the door or striking
the glass with a log. Never operate your stove if it has
damaged or broken glass. If you need to replace the
glass, use only replacement glass provided by your local
Dutchwest dealer.
Damper Adjustment
With time, you may need to adjust the damper linkage to
ensure that the damper plate seals tightly when closed. Test
the damper when the stove is cold. When turned into the
closed position, the damper should be feel “snug” but not
too tight. It will become a little tighter as the stove heats
up. Use a 7/16” socket wrench with socket extension to
adjust the linkage:
5. Loosen the anchor bolt a turn or two.
6. Tighten the adjusting bolt.
7. Test the damper. Make further adjustments if necessary.
8. When final adjustment has been made, tighten the
adjusting bolt lock nut, the anchor bolt, and the anchor
bolt lock nut.
Primary Air Control Adjustment
A simple spring-loaded tab maintains tension on the primary
air control lever. The air control should be loose enough for
you to easily set its position by hand, but also snug enough
to remain in that position until you change it.
Over time, the air control may tighten or loosen. To adjust
the tension on the control, let the stove cool to room temperature. Open the side-loading door and look in toward the
inner side of the front panel of the stove. (Fig. 30) Locate
the lower hex head bolt (A) on the primary air manifold,
just inside the door. Remove the bolt with a open end or
box end wrench to gain access to the adjustment screw
(B) inside the manifold. Insert a Phillips screwdriver into
that hole and turn the screw clockwise to increase tension,
counterclockwise to decrease tension. Make adjustments
in small increments and test the operation. Replace the
hex head bolt when you are done.
Note that the mechanism may tighten slightly as the stove
heats up. Your adjustment should leave the air control snug,
1. In an alternating pattern, first loosen and then remove
the four bolts that secure the top plate to the sides of
the stove.
2. Open the damper.
3. Loosen the adjusting bolt’s lock nut. (Fig. 29)
4. Loosen the anchor bolt’s lock nut, located on the underside of the damper.
Air Manifold
Air Control
B
A
ST442
Fig. 30 Primary air control adjustment.
Adjusting Bolt
but not overly tight.
Front of
Stove
Lock Nut
Cleaning the Chimney System
Anchor Bolt
Damper Rod
ST441
Fig. 29 Damper adjustment.
22
ST441
damper rod
7/7/00 djt
The chimney system is composed of the chimney and the
ST442
pipe that connects the stove
toadjustment
the chimney. Inspect the
air control
chimney and chimney connector
7/10/00 djt at least twice monthly,
and clean if necessary.
When you first begin using the stove, check daily for creosote — a substance that can look like either thick tar or
black, crisp flakes. Experience will show how often you
need to clean to be safe. The frequency may even vary
during the year. In the colder months when the hottest fires
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Dutchwest®
producing the least creosote are burned, you may need
to clean only every couple of months. During the warmer
months when creosote is more likely to result from coolerburning fires, weekly cleaning may be necessary.
At the very least, inspect the chimney connector and
chimney at least once every two months during the heating
season to determine if a buildup of creosote or soot has
occurred. If a significant layer of creosote has accumulated
(1/8” [3 mm] or more), or if soot has accumulated, either
should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
Failure to keep the chimney and connector system clean
can result in a serious chimney fire.
THE STOVE:
DAILY:
• Ashes should be removed before they reach the top of
the ash pan. Check accumulation at least once a day.
• Keep the area around the stove clear of any combustible
materials such as wood, furniture or clothing.
TWO MONTHS:
•
Check door handle to be sure it is working properly.
Gasketing becomes compressed after a period of time.
Adjust handle tightness if necessary.
The conditions for a chimney fire develop as follows:
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other
organic vapors which combine with expelled moisture to
form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result,
creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. Creosote
is flammable and, when ignited, makes an extremely hot
fire within the flue system which can damage the chimney
and overheat adjacent combustible material.
•
Check leg bolts and heat shield screws; tighten if
necessary.
To reduce the amount of creosote that may form, remember
to provide adequate air for combustion and to strive for
small, intense fires rather than large, smoldering ones.
• Clean the dust from the inner sides of bottom, rear or pipe
heat shields if your stove is equipped with them. Clean
surfaces are better heat reflectors than dirty surfaces.
You can never be too safe. Contact your local fire authority for information on what to do in the event of a chimney
fire, and have a clearly understood plan on how to handle
one.
Inspect Regularly, Clean as Required
Inspect the chimney and chimney connector twice monthly
and clean if necessary. Let the stove cool completely before you inspect the chimney. Use a flashlight and mirror
to sight up the flue through the chimney clean-out door or
chimney connector inspection tee. If no inspection access
is available, disconnect the pipe from the stove.
Clean the chimney using a specially designed chimney
cleaning brush, the same size and shape as the flue liner,
attached to flexible fiberglass rods designed for this purpose. Run the brush up and down the liner so that any
deposits fall to the bottom of the chimney where they can
be removed through the clean-out door.
Clean the chimney connector by disconnecting the sections, taking them outside, and removing any deposits
with a stiff wire brush. You can use a chimney brush of
correct size to clean chimney connector pipe. Reinstall
the connector sections after cleaning, being sure to secure
the individual sections with three sheet metal screws per
section.
Annual Spring Cleaning
• Check gasketing for wear, and replace if necessary.
•
Remove ashes from the ash pan and replace with a
moisture absorbing material (such as kitty litter) to keep
the interior of the stove dry.
• Inspect and clean the refractory package and catalyst.
• Touch up the black paint.
The Chimney Connector
TWO WEEKS:
•
Inspect the chimney connector and chimney. Clean if
necessary.
TWO MONTHS:
• Inspect the chimney and chimney connector. Pay particular attention to the horizontal runs of chimney connector,
and the elbows. Clean the system if necessary.
Yearly Spring Cleaning
• Disassemble the chimney connector and take it outdoors
for inspection and cleaning. Replace weak sections of
connector.
• Inspect the chimney for signs of deterioration. Repairs to
a masonry chimney should be made by a professional
mason. Replace damaged sections of prefabricated
chimney. Your local Dutchwest dealer or a chimney
sweep can help determine when replacement is necessary.
• Thoroughly clean the chimney.
If you are unable to inspect and/or clean the chimney system yourself, contact your local Dutchwest dealer or hire a
qualified chimney sweep in your area to do the job.
Maintenance Schedule
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23
Dutchwest®
Care of the Catalytic Combustor
Assess Your Present Operating Conditions
This wood heater contains a catalytic combustor, which
needs regular inspection and periodic replacement for
proper operation. It is against the law in the United States
to operate this wood heater in a manner inconsistent with
operating instructions in this manual, or if the catalytic
element is deactivated or removed.
In Spring or Fall, draft strength is less than in the middle
of winter, and a related change in stove performance may
result. Small hot fires are a good solution to sluggish performance under these conditions.
Under normal operating conditions, the catalytic combustor should remain active for two to six years (depending
on the amount of wood burned). However, it is important
to monitor the combustor periodically to ensure that it is
functioning properly, as well as to determine when it needs
to be replaced. A non-functioning combustor will result in
a loss of heating efficiency, and an increase in creosote
and emissions.
The combustor should be visually inspected “in place” for
fly ash accumulation and physical damage three times per
year. Actual removal of the combustor is not recommended
unless a more detailed inspection is warranted because of
diminished performance as outlined below.
The refractory package housing the catalytic combustor
should be inspected annually for a build-up of fly ash and
cleaned if necessary. This may be done during examination of the catalytic combustor.
Burning “green” (insufficiently seasoned) wood will result in
poorer performance than when burning properly seasoned
fuel. Was your fuel supply good and dry to start with, or
has it changed? You may have to run your stove hotter
(more air) to achieve good performance if you are burning
green or wet wood. Also, any changes in operating routine
should be considered at this time as a possible reason for
changed performance.
Once you have ruled out any other possible causes for a
decline in performance, you may proceed with an inspection of the catalyst.
Remove and Inspect the Combustor
• Wear safety glasses, a dust mask, and gloves.
• Remove the four bolts that secure the stove top plate.
There are two each on both the left and the right side,
just under the top plate overhang. With the bolts removed, lift the top.
When to Suspect A Combustor Problem
There are two ways to evaluate the performance of your
stove’s combustor.
The first is to monitor the temperatures on the probe thermometer. A properly-functioning combustor should operate in the range of 800-12000F. (430-650°C.). Combustor
temperatures consistently less than 8000F. (430°C.) merit
a closer examination of the combustor.
The second performance test is to observe the amount of
smoke leaving the chimney — both when the combustor
has achieved “light-off” and when it has not. Follow this
simple two-step procedure:
• With a fire in the stove and the combustor properly activated by the closing of the stove damper to route smoke
through it as described in the Operation Section, go outside
and observe the smoke leaving the chimney.
• Then, open the stove damper and once again observe
Remove these bolts
ST443
ST443
The combustor is located
beneath
thebolts
removable refractop
plate
tory package.
7/10/00 djt
Fig. 31 Remove four bolts securing stove top plate.
• Carefully remove the refractory package. It is extremely
delicate; handle it as little as possible.
Stove
Top
the smoke leaving the chimney.
Significantly more smoke should be observed after the
second step when the stove damper is open and exhaust
is not routed through the combustor. Be careful not to
confuse smoke with steam from wet wood. Unlike smoke,
steam disappears very quickly in air.
If either of these tests indicates a problem, consider other
possible factors as well.
Catalytic
Burner
ST444
Fig. 32 Remove refractory package with care.
24
ST444
catalytic burner
7/10/00 djt
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Dutchwest®
• For a visual inspection for blockage that can be performed
without removing the combustor, have an assistant shine
a bright flashlight beam up through the combustor from
inside the stove’s firebox.
• If combustor removal is necessary for cleaning or closer
inspection, lift it gently out of its chamber. You may have
to work it back and forth carefully to remove it. Check the
combustor and the bottom of the refractory chamber for a
build-up of fly ash, and remove any ash by gently blowing
air through the combustor. Do not brush the surface, as
this could damage the element.
• Inspect the combustor, referring to the information in the
“Catalytic Combustor Appendix” on Page 26 for information
on what to look for. Although small hairline cracks will not
affect performance, the combustor should be essentially
intact. If the combustor is broken in pieces or has sections
missing, it should be replaced. Call your local Dutchwest
dealer for a replacement combustor, item #C56M. Consult
the warranty section at the back of this manual for further
information on catalytic combustor replacement.
• If the combustor is in good condition and clean, re-install
it. Be sure first to carefully wrap a new Interam gasket (an
extra was provided with your stove) around its perimeter
before replacement. Insert the gasketed combustor gently
back into position, and replace the refractory package.
7001135
• Before replacing the stove top, check the damper. If the
gasket is intact, but the damper isn’t locking tightly, adjustment should be made. Also check the gasket that seals
the top plate.
• Gasket should be replaced only if damaged or missing.
The top plate uses a 3/8” gasket and the damper is sealed
with a 3/8” gasket. The procedure for removing the old
gasket and installing the new is the same as that described
for door gaskets on Page 21.
• Replace the stove top, and tighten the four top plate bolts
that secure it. Be sure that the top plate seats properly
before tightening, and tighten the bolts alternately as you
would tighten the bolts that secure a car tire.
Watch for Better Results
Finish up by cleaning the chimney connector. Then, use
the stove in your typical manner for two weeks and note
the stove’s performance, taking special note of the performance tests described above.
If a problem persists, contact your Dutchwest dealer for
further advice about your particular situation.
25
Dutchwest®
Catalytic Combustor
In any chemical reaction, including the combustion process,
there are certain conditions which must be met before the
reaction can take place. For example, a reaction may
require a certain temperature, or a certain concentration
of the reactants (the combustion gases and oxygen), or
a certain amount of time. Catalysts, though not changed
themselves during the reaction, have the ability to act at
a molecular level to change these requirements. In the
secondary combustion chamber of the Dutchwest Convection Heaters, the catalyst reduces the temperature at which
secondary combustion can start from the 1000 - 1200° F.
(540 - 650° C) range to the 500 - 600° F. (260 - 315° C)
range, increasing efficiency, and reducing creosote and
emissions.
Masking and Poisoning
Though it is advantageous, the catalytic reaction does have
some limitations of its own. Primary among these is that
the reactants (the gases) come into close physical contact
with the catalyst itself.
Flame Impingement
To ensure the necessary contact, the catalytic element
in your Dutchwest Convection Heater is composed of a
ceramic base in the shape of a honeycomb. On each of
the honeycomb’s many surfaces a coating of the catalyst
(usually a noble metal such as platinum or palladium) is
applied. The large surface area exposed in this configuration ensures that the combustion gases have the greatest
opportunity to come in contact with the catalyst.
Loss of catalytic activity will be apparent in several ways.
First you may notice an increase in fuel consumption.
Second, there will be a visible increase in the rate at which
creosote builds up in your chimney connector system.
You may also notice a heavy discharge of smoke from the
chimney. There are a number of catalytic problems which
can cause loss of activity:
Blockage
While the honeycomb pattern ensures good contact, it
also increases the resistance to flow of the combustion
gases, and, because of the many surfaces, provides more
places for creosote and fly ash to deposit. It is important
to follow the operating instructions in order to minimize
these deposits, and to periodically inspect your catalyst
for signs of blockage.
26
While the catalyst itself does not enter into the combustion
process, it is possible for certain elements, such as lead
and sulfur, to attach to the active sites on the surface of the
honeycomb. Though the catalyst is still there, it is covered,
or masked, by the contaminant, and cannot function. To
avoid this situation, it is important not to burn anything
in your Dutchwest Convection Heater that is a source of
these contaminants. Particularly avoid painted or treated
wood, coal, household trash, colored papers, metal foils,
or plastics. Chemical chimney cleaners may also contain
harmful elements. The safest approach is to burn only
untreated, natural wood.
The catalytic element is not designed for exposure to direct
flame. If you continually overfire your Dutchwest Convection Heater, the chemistry of the catalyst coating may be
altered, inhibiting the combustion process.
Thermal degradation of the ceramic base may also occur,
causing the element to disintegrate. Stay within the recommended guidelines of the Operation section.
Mechanical Damage
If the element is mishandled, damage may occur. Always
treat the element carefully. Remember the catalyst is
made of a ceramic material; treat it as you would fine china. Hairline cracks will not affect the performance of the
catalyst, as long as the steel sleeve holds the element in
the proper position.
Peeling
Peeling of the surface coat may occur if the catalytic element is frequently subjected to excessive temperatures.
Follow the operating instructions carefully to avoid this
type of damage.
Every Dutchwest product is equipped with either a Corning
“Long-Life”® or a Technical Glass Products “Honeycomb”®.
The products are equivalent. If for any reason you must
ship your catalytic element, remember its fragile nature.
Place the element in a plastic bag, and package it with a
generous amount of shock absorbing material.
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Dutchwest®
Draft Management
Your stove is only one part of a system that includes the chimney, the operator, the fuel, and the home. The other parts of
the system will affect how well the stove works. When there is
a good match between all the parts, the system works well.
Wood stove operation depends on natural (unforced) draft.
Natural draft occurs when exhaust gas is hotter (and therefore
lighter) than the outdoor air at the top of the chimney. The
greater the temperature difference, the stronger the draft.
As the hot exhaust gas rises out of the chimney, it generates
suction that draws air into the stove for combustion. A slow,
lazy fire when the stove’s air inlets are fully open indicates
a weak draft. A brisk fire, supported only by air entering the
stove through the air inlets, indicates a good draft. The inlets
are passive; they regulate how much air can enter the stove,
but they don’t force air into it.
The efficiency of a modern woodburning appliance, (in which
the amount of air available for combustion is regulated), depends on the chimney to keep exhaust gases warm all the way
outdoors. The characteristics of your chimney - whether it is
steel or masonry, interior or exterior, matched or mismatched
to the stove outlet, - determine how quickly it will warm up and
how well it will sustain the optimum temperatures necessary
to maintain strong draft and efficient combustion. Here follows
a description of various flue system characteristics and the
related effects on stove performance.
Masonry Chimney
Although masonry is the traditional material used for chimney
construction, it can have distinct performance disadvantages
when used to vent a controlled-combustion woodstove. Masonry forms an effective ‘heat sink’ - that is, it absorbs and holds
heat for long periods of time. The large mass, however, may
take a long time to become hot enough to sustain a strong
draft. The larger the chimney (in total mass), the longer it will
take to warm up. Cold masonry will actually cool exhaust gases
enough to diminish draft strength. This problem is worse if the
chimney is located outside the home or if the chimney flue has
a cross-sectional volume much larger than the stove outlet.
Steel Chimney
Most factory-made ‘Class A’ steel chimneys have a layer of
insulation around the inner flue. This insulation keeps the
smoke warm and protects the surrounding structure from the
high flue temperatures. Because the insulation is less dense
than masonry, the inner steel liner warms up more quickly than
a masonry chimney; this makes the steel chimney support a
good draft more quickly than masonry does. Steel chimneys
are not as attractive as masonry, but they are very durable
and generally outperform masonry.
Indoor/Outdoor Location
Because the chimney’s function is to keep the smoke warm,
it is best to locate it inside the house. This location uses the
house as insulation for the flue and allows some radiant heat
7001135
release from the flue into the home. Since an interior chimney
doesn’t continuously lose its heat to the outdoors, less heat
from the stove is required to get it warm and keep it warm.
Flue Sizing
The flue size for a controlled-combustion appliance should be
based on the cross-sectional volume of the stove flue outlet.
In this case, more is definitely not better. Hot gases lose heat
through expansion; if a stove with a six-inch flue collar (28
square inch area) is vented into a 10” x 10” flue, the gases will
expand to over three times their original volume. As gases cool
with expansion, draft strength decreases. If an oversized flue
is also outside the house, the heat it absorbs will be conducted
to the outdoor air and the flue will remain relatively cool.
It is common for a masonry flue to be oversized for the stove.
Such a chimney can take quite a while to warm up and the
stove performance will likely be disappointing. The best
solution to an oversize flue problem is the installation of an
insulated steel chimney liner of the same diameter as the appliance flue outlet. The liner keeps the exhaust gas warm and
the result is a stronger draft. An uninsulated liner is a second
choice - although the liner will keep the exhaust restricted to
its original volume, the air around the liner will require time
and heat energy to warm up.
Check your local codes. You may be required to install a flue
liner in any oversize or masonry flue.
Pipe & Chimney Layout
Every bend in the flue will act as a brake on the exhaust as
it flows from the firebox to the chimney cap. The ideal pipe
and chimney layout is straight up from the stove through a
completely straight chimney. Use this layout if at all possible
as it will promote optimum stove performance and simplify
maintenance.
If the stovepipe must elbow to enter a chimney, locate the
elbow about midway between the stove top and the chimney
thimble. This configuration lets the smoke speed up before it
must turn, keeps some pipe in the room for heat transfer, and
allows long-term flexibility for installing a different appliance
without relocating the thimble.
There should be no more than eight feet of single-wall stove
pipe between the stove and a chimney. Longer runs can cool
the smoke enough to cause draft and creosote problems. Use
double-wall stove pipe for longer runs.
Single Venting
Your stove requires a dedicated flue. Do not connect the stove
to a flue used by any other appliance. Chimney draft is a natural
form of energy and follows the path of least resistance. If the
stove is vented to a flue that also serves an open fireplace or
another appliance, the draft will also pull air in through those
avenues. The additional air flow will lower flue temperatures,
reduce draft strength and promote creosote development;
overall stove performance will suffer. The effect is similar to that
27
Dutchwest®
of a vacuum cleaner with a hole in the hose. In some extreme
instances, the other appliance can even impose a negative
draft and result in a dangerous draft reversal.
Fuel
Even the best stove installation will not perform well with poor
fuel. If available, always use hardwood that has been air-dried
(“seasoned”) 12-18 months. Softwood burns more rapidly than
hardwood and has a high pitch content conducive to creosote
production. Decayed wood of any type has little heat value
and should not be used.
All unseasoned (‘green’) wood has a high moisture content.
Much of its heat value will be used to evaporate moisture
before the wood can burn. This significantly reduces not only
the amount of energy available to warm your home, but also
the intensity of the fire and temperature of the exhaust gas.
Incomplete combustion and cool flue temperatures promote
creosote formation and weak draft.
You can judge the moisture content of wood by its appearance
and weight or use a commercially available moisture meter
for an exact measurement. Unseasoned wood will be a third
heavier than dry wood. Also, look for cracks (“checking”) in the
ends of the log that result from contraction as the wood dries.
The longer and wider the cracks are, the dryer the wood is.
Purchase your fuel from a reputable dealer.
Creosote
Creosote is a by-product of low-temperature stove operation,
weak draft, or both. It is a tar that results when unburned gases
condense inside the flue system at temperatures below 290˚
F. Creosote is volatile and can generate a chimney fire. All of
the installation characteristics that adversely affect chimney
draft also promote creosote condensation. Consequently, you
can minimize creosote accumulation with an effective chimney
design and the use of operational techniques that encourage
good draft and complete combustion.
Inspect your chimney frequently and clean it whenever accumulation is exceeds 1/4”.
Backpuffing
Backpuffing is a condition that results when the draft is too
weak to pull flue gases out of the chimney system as fast as the
fire generates them. Volatile gases build up within the firebox
until reaching a density and temperature at which they ignite.
With this ignition, you may hear a muffled popping sound and
see a bit of smoke forced out of the stove.
This condition is most likely to occur in the Spring or Fall when
moderate outdoor temperatures and low intensity fires produce
weak draft. If your stove back-puffs, open up the damper to
let the smoke rise to the flue more quickly. Also, open the air
28
inlets to induce a livelier fire and speed airflow through the
stove. Avoid large loads of firewood at one time. You should
always see lively, dancing flames in the firebox; a lazy, smoky
fire is inefficient and will promote draft problems.
Draft Testing
An easy way to determine whether your chimney draft is strong
enough is to close the stove damper, wait a few minutes to
let the airflow stabilize, and then test whether you can vary
the strength of the fire by swinging the air control open and
closed. Results here are not instant; you may need to wait
a few minutes for a change in the air control setting to have
an effect on the fire. If there is no change, the draft is not yet
strong enough to let you close the damper. You will need to
open it for a while longer and manage the fire with the air inlet
until the draft strengthens. Keep a record of your operating
habits and relate them to their effects on the stove’s function.
You’ll be rewarded with safe and efficient performance.
Negative Pressure
Good draft also depends on a sufficient supply of air to the
stove. The chimney can’t pull in more air than is available to it.
Sluggish draft can be caused by a house that is tight enough
to prevent the ready flow of air to the stove, or by competition
between the stove and other appliances that vent indoor air to
the outside; i.e., exhaust fans for range hoods, clothes dryers,
bathroom fans, etc. If the chimney draws well when all such
equipment is turned off (or sealed, in the case of fireplaces
and/or other stoves), you need to be attentive in timing the use
of the other appliances. If you need to crack a nearby window
or door to enable the chimney to pull well, you should install
an outside-air intake to bring combustion air into the room.
Conclusion
Woodburning is more an art than a science. Art includes
technique; and since installations, homes, and fuel vary, the
stove operator must also vary technique, (mostly timing),
to achieve satisfying results. Over time, you will become
familiar with the features of your particular installation;
you will be able to identify cause and effect in a variety of
seasonal circumstances, and adapt your operating habits
to changing conditions.
7001135
Dutchwest®
58
23
29
60
24
55
34
6
2
56
21
4
62
55
8
54
9
31
30
36
61
5
7
22
10
53
50
16
41
20
48
59
57
13
54
32
3
17
1
12
11
43
33
38
45
42
35
18
65
66
64
40
39
47
14
63
13
19
37
Vermont Castings Group reserves the right to make changes in
design, materials, specifications, prices and discontinue colors
and products at any time, without notice.
Dutchwest Convection Heater
Models 2460, 2461, 2462
Item/Description
1.
Bottom
2. Outer Back
3.
Inner Bottom
4. Inner Back (After 9/97 No Outside Air Slot)
(Before9/97 Slot for Outside Air
5. Inner Top
Inner Top Ass’y (Inner Top, Web, Gasket, Tabs & Bolts)
Inner Top Ass’y (Inner Top, Web, All Hardware, Baffle,
All Gaskets)
7001135
246024612462
1135
700095870009787000979
Dutchwest parts
8/02
7001144
7001231
7001234
700113670011167001149
7001130
7001230
7001233
7001173
7001174
7000984
7001112
7001119
(See Item #61)
0000003
0000004
0000016
--
7001171
--
29
Dutchwest®
Dutchwest Convection Heater
Models 2460, 2461, 2462 (continued)
Item/Description
6. Inner Top Web
7. Inner Top Channel Cap
8.
Air Distributor
9. Baffle
10. Right Side (After 7/97 no outside air)
11.
Left Side
12.
Side Door
13. Load Door Handle (2)
14. Door Pawl (2) (Front Doors)
15. Pawl Assembly (Load Door)
16.
Primary Air Manifold
17.
Front
18. Gasket for Front Door
19.
Ashdoor
20.Grate
21. Retainer Tab for Web (2)
22.
Fan Plate
23.
Damper
24.
Damper Adjuster
28.
Damper Tab (2)
29.
Damper Crank
30. Damper Operating Rod
31.
Grate Back
32.
Top 33.
Hearth
34.
Flue Collar
35. Leg - NOTE: Uses 1/4-20 x 11⁄4" Bolt
35a. Leg - NOTE: Uses 3/8-16 x 11⁄4" Bolt*
36. Damper Handle Stub
37. Ash Door Handle
38.
Ash Pan
39. Gasket for Glass
40.
Glass
41. Manifold Cap (2)
42. Holder for Door Handle Insert
43.
Primary Air Control
44. Damper Tab for Primary Control
45. Spring for Primary Control
47.
Front Door
48. Inner Bottom Screw, 1/4-20 x 33⁄4"
50.
Andiron (2)
53. Side Wear Plate
54.
Interam Gasket
55.
Catalytic Combustor
56. Refractory
57.
Combustor Air Inlet
58.
Probe Thermometer
59.
Brass Bar
60. Refractory Package1 (as of 7/97)
61. Inner Top1 62. Inner Top Insert/Baffle Combination as of 1/972
63. Wood Handle w/Lifter - NI
64. Bottom Heat Shield
65.
Leg Leveller*
66. Heat Shield Bracket
1
2
246024612462
7001110
7001110
7000110 (to 7/97)
7000961
7000974
7000987
700095270009527000952
7000953
7000953
-7001229
7001229
7001232
700112070011207001150
700112170011217001151
5004245
5004245
5004245
30002362
30002362
30002362
--
30002362
30002362
700113770011227001152
700113970011247001154
7000910
7000910
7000910
700114170011267001156
30002092
30002092
7001148
1601488
1601488
1601488
700003770000377000037
700095470009547000954
700095070009507000950
160148816014881601488
700095170009517000951
7001145
7001131
7001160
700116670011667001178
700096070009727000985
700114270011277001157
700096970009691304280
700001670000167000016
300055733000557330005573
5004265
5004265
5004265
5004237
5004237
5004237
7000G797000G697000G89
1203591
1203591
1203591
700114670011327001161
7001163
7001164
7001165
1600600
1600600
1600600
300027383000273930002737
1601488
1601488
1601488
1201846
1201846
1201846
700114070011257001155
120139412013941201394
700111770011177001117
7001198
7001198
7001199
000083700008370000837
000C56M000C56M000C56M
1602515
1602515
1602515 (to 7/97)
700112870011287001128
700094870009487000948
300027313000273230002733
--
--
1602514
--
--7001226
--
--7001225
30002787
30002787
30002787
7000HS2
7000HS1
7000HS3
120174512017451201745
7000I14
7000I14
7000I14
On Extra-Large units built after August 1997, Refractory differs from Small & Large units.
On Extra-Large units built after August 1997, Inner Top and Insert differ from pre-August 1997 units.
30
7001135
Dutchwest®
Warranty
Limited 3 Year Warranty
Vermont Castings Group warrants that this woodburning stove will be free of
defects in material and workmanship for a period of three years from the date
you receive it, except that the catalyst, thermostat assembly, handles, glass
door panels, cement, and gasketing shall be warranted as described below.
Vermont Castings Group will repair or replace, at its option, any part found
to be defective upon inspection by a Dutchwest, Authorized Dealer. The
customer must return the defective part or the stove, with shipping prepaid, to the Authorized Dealer or pay for any Authorized Dealer in-home
travel fees or service charges for in-home repair work. It is the dealer’s
option whether the repair work will be done in the customer’s home or
in the dealer’s shop. If, upon inspection, the damage is found to be the
fault of the manufacturer, repairs will be authorized at no charge to the
customer for parts and/or labor.
Any woodburning stove or part thereof that is repaired or replaced during
the limited warranty period will be warranted under the terms of the limited
warranty for a period not to exceed the remaining term of the original
limited warranty or six (6) months, whichever is longer.
Limited 1 Year Warranty
The following parts of the woodburning stove are warranted to be free
of defects in material and workmanship for a period of one year from
the date you receive it: The thermostat assembly, handles, glass door
panels, cement, and gasketing. Any of these items found to be defective
will be repaired or replaced at no charge, upon the return of the part with
postage prepaid to a Dutchwest Authorized Dealer.
Any part repaired or replaced during the limited warranty period will be
warranted under the terms of the limited warranty for a period not to exceed the remaining term of the original limited warranty or six (6) months,
whichever is longer.
Limited Catalyst Warranty
The catalyst will be warranted for a six year period as follows: If the
original catalyst or a replacement catalyst proves defective or ceases to
maintain 70% of its particulate emission reduction activity (as measured
by an approved testing procedure) within 24 months from the date the
stove is received, the catalyst itself will be replaced free.
From 25 - 72 months a pro-rated credit will be allowed against a replacement catalyst and the cost of labor necessary for its installation at the
time of replacement.
For stove purchases made after June 30, 1990, a third year
(25 - 36 months) of no charge replacement will be made when combustor failure is due to thermal degradation of the substrate (crumbling of
ceramic material). The customer must pay for any in-home travel fees,
service charges, or transportation costs for returning the stove to the
Authorized Dealer.
Amount of Time
Credit Towards
Since Purchase
Replacement Cost
0 - 24 months
100%
25 - 36 months
505
37 - 48 months
30%
49 - 60 months
20%
61 - 72 months
10%
Any replacement catalyst will be warranted under the terms of the catalyst
warranty for the remaining term of the original warranty. The purchaser
must provide the following information in order to receive a replacement
catalyst under the terms of this limited warranty:
1. Name, address and telephone number.
2. Proof of original purchase date.
3. Date of failure of catalyst.
4. Any relevant information or circumstances regarding determination of failure.
5. In addition, the owner must return the failed catalyst.
7001135
Exclusions & Limitations
1. This product must be installed or serviced by a qualified installer,
preferably NFI or WETT (Canada) certified, as prescribed by the
local jurisdiction. It must be installed and operated at all times in
accordance with the Installation and Operating instructions furnished
with the product any alterion, willful abuse, accident or misuse of this
product shall nullify this warranty.
2. This warranty is transferable; however, proof of original retail purchase
is required.
3. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove. Misuse includes
overfiring which will result if the stove is used in such a manner as to
cause one or more of the plates to glow red. Overfiring can be identified later by warped plates and areas where the paint pigment has
burned off. Overfiring in enamel fireplaces is identified by bubbling,
cracking, chipping and discoloration of the porcelain enamel finish.
Vermont Castings Group offers no warranty on chipping of enamel
surfaces. Inspect your woodburning stove prior to accepting it for any
damage to the enamel.
4. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove as described in the
Owner’s Guide, nor does it cover an stove which has been modified
unless authorized by a Vermont Castings Group representative in
writing. This warranty does not cover damage to the stove caused
by burning salt saturated wood, chemically treated wood, or any fuel
not recommended in the Owner’s Guide.
5. This warranty does not cover a stove repaired by someone other than
a Dutchwest Authorized Dealer.
6. Damage to the unit while in transit is not covered by this warranty but
is subject to a claim against the common carrier. Contact Dutchwest
Authorized Dealer from whom you purchased your stove or Vermont
Castings Group if the purchase was direct. (Do not operate the stove
as this may negate the ability to process the claim with the carrier.)
7. Claims are not valid where the installation does not conform to local
building and fire codes or, in their absence, to the recommendations
in our Owner’s Guide.
8. The salt air environment of coastal areas, or a high-humidity environment, can be corrosive to the porcelain enamel finish. These
conditions can cause rusting of the cast iron beneath the porcelain
enamel finish, which will cause the porcelain enamel finish to flake
off. This warranty does not cover damage caused by a salt air or
high-humidity environment.
9. Vermont Castings Group shall have no obligation to enhance or update
any unit once manufactured.
IN NO EVENT SHALL Vermont Castings Group BE LIABLE FOR INCIDENTAL AND CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES,
INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY
AND FITNESS, ARE LIMITED TO THE DURATION OF THIS WRITTEN
WARRANTY. THIS WARRANTY SUPERCEDES ALL OTHER ORAL OR
WRITTEN WARRANTIES.
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitations of incidential and
consequential damages or limitations on how long an implied warranty
lasts, so the above limitations may not apply to you. This warranty gives
you specific rights and you may have other rights which vary from state
to state.
How to Obtain Service
If a defect is noted within the warranty period, the customer should contact
a Dutchwest Authorized Dealer or Vermont Castings Group if the purchase
was direct with the following information:
1. Name, address, and telephone number of the purchaser.
2. Date of purchase.
3. Serial number from the label on the back.
4. Nature of the defect or damage.
5. Any relevant information or circumstances, e.g., installation, mode
of operation when defect was noted.
A warranty claim will then start in process. Vermont Castings Group reserves the right to withhold final approval of a warranty claim pending a
visual inspection of the defect by authorized representatives.
31
149 Cleveland Drive • Paris, Kentucky 40361
www.vermontcastingsgroup.com
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