May 2017 Japan’s Nº1 English Magazine www.metropolisjapan.com City Pop The 80's just keep coming back Festival Camping Just know that you're gonna get dirty Ishigaki Island Okinawa, but better 無料 PRICELESS Seiji Iinuma A professional lifesaver thinks big Sumo Wrestling Japan produces a new yokuzuna Fundraising in Tokyo Foreigners lead the charity scene Get Outside THE ISSUE www.akaiclinic.com NON-SURGICAL TREATMENTS FACE & NECK LIFT, BROW LIFT, EYE LIFT, SKIN TIGHTENING, WRINKLE REDUCTION UTIMS (HIFU), Portrait Plasma® (Plasma), EndyMed® Pro (RF), Fractional lasers (eCO2, Affirm), INFINI (fractional RF) ACNE & ACNE SCAR, OPEN PORES Portrait Plasma® (Plasma),Fractional lasers (eCO2, Affirm), INFINI (fractional RF) FRECKLES, PIGMENTED LESION SOLARI (IPL), Aurora (IPL), Q-YAG FACIAL CONTOURING UTIMS, EndyMed® Pro (RF),AccuSculpt® (1444nm laser), Kybella or BNLS injection BODY CONTOURING EndyMed® Pro Body, AccuSculpt® (1444nm laser), Vela, Kybella or BNLS injection TATTOO REMOVAL Q-YAG laser LASER HAIR REMOVAL Long-pulsed YAG, Long-pulsed Alex, Diode laser, Diode+ RF, IPL, Electrolysis LATESTS MEDICAL TREATMENTS FACIAL & NECK REJUVENATION & REGENERATION USING TISSUE ENGINEERING TECHNIQUE Fat & Stem cell injection with PRP, PRFM, PRP AUGMENTATION WITH FAT & STEM CELL Breast, Buttocks, Lip and Face STEM CELL THERAPY USING CELUTION™ For Rejuvenation, Regeneration, Osteoarthritis ( oa ), Periodontal Disease, Sinus lift, Aga, TM Joint Dysfunction, etc AESTHETIC GENITAL REJUVENATION (NON-SURGICAL) HIFU, Fractional Laser, PRP, Fat & Stem cell injection VITAL INJECTOR WITH HYALURONIC ACID, PRP, BOTOX, VITAMINS SURGICAL DR. HIDEMI AKAI is a board-certified plastic surgeon and an associate professor of the department of plastic, aesthetic and reconstructive surgery at Tokyo’s Showa University. Dr. Akai trained at Harvard Medical School and Massachusetts General Hospital before amassing over twenty-five years of experience. DR. KEIKO AKAI is also a board-certified plastic surgeon, and a dermatologist. The Akai Clinic offters a range of cosmetic-surgery procedures, laser treatments and skin care, using state-of-the-art equipment and the latest techniques. TREATMENTS • EYELID SURGERY • NASAL RESHAPING • FACE & NECK LIFT ANTIOXIDANT • BREAST SURGERY HYDROGEN DIV • BODY CONTOURING BOTOX • LIPOSUCTION W/ LATEST DEVICE • SKIN CANCER, SKIN TUMOR FILLER • GYNECOMASTIA • VULVO-VAGINOPLASTY Other cosmetic procedures available. For more details, and information services, please check our website. We welcome email and phone inquiries Additional fee for anesthesia is required. Please contact the clinic for more information. Board Certified Plastic Surgeon and Dermatologist. Omotesando KNK Bldg 3F 3-5-17, Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo. 1-min walk from Omotesando stn, A3 exit. Tel: 03-5771-4114 Email: [email protected] Open: 11AM~8PM (Mon-Wed & Fri) & 10AM-7PM (Sat&Sun) Yokohama Quadrifoglio 4F 5-14 Kinkocho, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama. 1-min walk from Yokohama stn, North East exit. Tel: 045-620-5745 Email: [email protected] Open: 11AM~7PM (Tue~Fri) & 10AM~5PM (Sat & Hol) INSIDE 18 Kisenosato: The first Japanese-born Yokozuna in 14 years GET PRINTED! IN FOCUS 20 A lifesaver's life: Seiji Iinuma on the act of saving SEND IN YOUR BEST PHOTOS FOR OUR JUNE ISSUE. 24 Ishigaki: A piece of paradise surprisingly close to Tokyo metropolisjapan.com/focus Men with phones at Shibuya Station by Hugo Konno MAY 2017 Photo by Cedric Diradourian Cover design by Davi McDowell Reach over 60,000 Metropolis readers. Advertise: [email protected]; www.metropolisjapan.com/advertise メトロポリスは20年以上に渡り、訪日•関東在住 の外国人へ無料で配布している英字総合情報誌で す。英語圏の方々に向けた情報発信や宣伝広告の 機会を行政機関や日本企業に提供しております。 お問い合わせ: 03-4588-2277 8F Nishi-Azabu Sonic Bldg, 3-2-12 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0031 • Tel: 03-4588-2277 Fax: 03-4588-2278 • www.metropolisjapan.com © Copyright 2017 Japan Partnership Inc. The views expressed herein are not necessarily those of the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to edit or delete any advertisement without notice. METROPOLIS IS JAPAN’S NO.1 ENGLISH MAGAZINE, FOUNDED IN 1994 AND PUBLISHED FOR JAPAN’S INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY. Neil Butler Chief Operating Officer Joshua McDowell Editor-In-Chief EDITORIAL Joshua McDowell (E d i to r - I n - C h i e f/C r e at i v e D i r e c to r) S e a n M ay (e d i to r) Angela Qian (A s s i s ta n t E d i to r) E l l i s K i m , R e b e c c a S p e a r e - C o l e (E d i to r i a l I n t e r n s ) Tim Young (Proofreader) CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Don Morton (Movies) J o a n B a i l e y ( Community) DESIGN Davi Melo (Art Director) WEB Fernando Goya, C h a y H a r l e y ( D e v e lo p e r s ) ADVERTISING K a r l N a k a s h i m a , N i k i K a i h a r a ( S a l e s M a n a g e r s ) L i s a K a n a i , A y u n a M u n k u y e v a ( A c c o u n t E x e c u t i v e s ) Eri Arai (Sales Assistant) ADMINISTRATION Yumi Nakadai (Administration Coordinator) Metropolis Magazine @MetropolisTokyo MetropolisTokyo [email protected] 03 TO-DO LIST Check full event listings on our Events page online! metropolisjapan.com/events © 市川勝弘 MAY 2-7 EDITOR’S PICK SPIRAL INDEPENDENT CREATORS FESTIVAL Now in its 18th year, Spiral Independent Creators is once again bringing together 150 artists and designers in this festival supporting emerging talent. Exhibitors will be brought in three groups over a five-day period and include artists of all genres and mediums, including digital artists, installations and custom-made apparel. One exhibitor will also be awarded the Spiral Grand Prix award. Held in the fashionable SPIRAL cultural center in MinamiAoyama, the center aims to fuse art and everyday life and has made itself a distinct and beautiful center for the contemporary arts. May 2–7, 11am–7pm. ¥500 at door/¥1,000 for all-group pass/students free. SPIRAL, 5-6-23 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku. Omotesando. www.sicf.jp (Japanese website) Flickr user Daniel GrandeCastelo MAY 4–6 MAY 5 Meaning 5th of May in Spanish, this festival celebrates the Battle of Puebla, where a small team of Mexican fighters defeated the larger French army— considered at the time to be the strongest globally. Cinco de Mayo is a worldwide event and has been taking place in Japan since 2013. Previously held in Yoyogi Park, this year the festival is moving to a new location in Odaiba. It is a great chance to drink, dance and be merry, surrounded by music, cuisine and culture from not only Mexico, but many countries in the Western Hemisphere. Don’t miss out on what has become one of Japan’s most international festivals. May 4–May 6, 10am–9pm. Promenade Symbol Park, 1-3-12 Aomi, Koto-ku. Aomi. www.cincodemayo.jp/ english.html Wired Music Festival is back this year with a stellar lineup: Hardwell, Wiz Khalifa, Zedsdead, Killthebuzz, GxTxA and Kohh, to name a mere few. What better way to spend Sunday than dancing amongst a sea of people, waving neon glowsticks in the air or flitting between the multiple different stages to the music that takes your fancy. Held at Nagashima Spaland, aka “Long Island”, escape into the beachside, amusement park atmosphere before returning to real life on Monday morning. There is no age limit on admittance and for cheaper tickets, be sure to purchase them in advance. May 5, 11am–9pm. ¥13,000 at door/ ¥30,000 VIP. Nagashima Spaland, 333 Nagashimacho Urayasu, Mie-ken. Nagashimaonsen. www.wiredmusicfestival.jp/ en.html CINCO DE MAYO © Chihiro Iwasaki, The Little Girl Lighting a Match, from The Little Match Girl, 1964 (Kaisei-sha) WIRED MUSIC FESTIVAL © CAPCOM CO. LTD UNTIL MAY 14 MAY 21 MAY 26 Chihiro Iwasaki is a beloved Japanese illustrator of watercolors, whose lovely and fluid paintings of children and flowers decorate the halls of elementary schools and appear in popular children’s books. Hans Christian Andersen is the famous Danish author of enduring fairy tales including “The Little Match Girl” and “The Little Mermaid.” Now at Tokyo’s Chihiro Iwasaki museum, 90 of Chihiro’s popular Andersen illustrations are on display, along with those of other artists from around the world who have been inspired by Andersen’s magical tales. Until May 14, Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. ¥800 adult/¥700 students/ HS and younger free. Chihiro Art Museum Tokyo. 4-7-2 Shimo-shakuji, Nerima-ku. Kamiigusa. www. chihiro.jp/global/en/index.html Enter if you dare! This 2k fun-run, based on the survival horror game “Biohazard” which has sold 75 million copies worldwide, is accompanied by a costume contest, talk show, zombie makeup corner, and merchandise shop. Anyone (if they're are brave enough) can enter either dressed as a “survivor” or a “zombie”. The zombies proceed to chase the survivors in order to rip off their life jackets. The run starts in front of the Tokyo City Keiba stands and the course is complete with set pieces that recreate the Biohazard ambiance. Immerse yourself in this world of the undead on a casual Sunday morning. May 21, 9am. ¥4,800 adult/¥2,800 junior or ¥7,800 adult/ ¥5,800 junior for Special Entry. Tokyo City Keiba, 2-1-2 Katsushima, Shinagawa-ku. Okeibajo-mae. zombie-rush.jp/en/event.html FANTASIA is a brand new music festival that celebrates Japanese beauty through music, fashion, and media art. Episode 0 at WOMB will be the first of a series of FANTASIA events that look to shake up the Japanese music festival scene. In developing the theme of “Japanese beauty,” Masahiko Shimada, author and selection committee member of the famed Akutagawa Prize, is in charge of creating an original story that incorporates elements of dance, music and digital art, while Ryo Oguri, a renowned theater director, is attached to the project as a director. And with Australian DJ duo NERVO billed as the headliner, FANTASIA - Episode 0 is set to be a fantastic and memorable night. May 26, 11pm. ¥6,500. WOMB 2-1 Maruyamacho, Shibuya-ku. Shibuya. www.fantasia.tokyo CHIHIRO ART MUSEUM COLLECTION: MY ANDERSEN 04 BIOHAZARD ZOMBIE RUSH SPONSORED FANTASIA Woman with Insomnia, from The Scroll of Diseases and Deformities, fragment MAY 7 MAY 14 UNTIL MAY 14 The Premium Bike Impression is the perfect event for biking fanatics. Having started last year, it will run for a second time on May 7. Weekenders will enjoy the opportunity to come together, share their love of the sport and enjoy views of Tokyo. Road bicycles, a type of cycle designed for travelling at speed on paved roads, have been gaining more attention and popularity throughout Japan, so much so that the event is also being held in Osaka for those who cannot make it to Tokyo. Although it is possible to rent a helmet, there are a limited number available, so it is recommended you bring your own May 7, 9am–5pm. Starting at ¥2,000/¥1,000 in advance. Meiji Jingu Gaien, 1-1 Kasumigoaka-machi, Shinjuku-ku. Shinanomachi. www.bit.ly/2oaHuKt (Japanese website) Longwalk Tokyo is a walk rally at which you plan to reach a goal within the time limit of 10 hours, walking along the Tokyo Marathon course. Although there are 10 individual checkpoints to aim for along the way, you have the freedom to plan your own route through the city. So test your organization, map-reading skills and determination during this Sunday event. Starting at Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office, checkpoints along the way include Nihonbashi and Hibiya, with the finishing line at Tokyo Station. The whole event is held for the Charity Walk project, “Ayumu Lantia,” supporting activities of developing countries suffering from starvation. May 14, 8am–7pm. ¥7000/ ¥6000 for groups of 5 or more. Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office, 2-8-1 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tochomae. www.bit.ly/2osSGy4 To celebrate a decade since the Suntory Museum moved to Roppongi, this unprecedented exhibition focuses on generations of great enthusiasts for Emakimono or e-maki. These Japanese illustrated texts, or narrative picture scrolls, are a fusion of art and literature, created between the 11th and 16th centuries. The history of their production was heavily impacted by figures such as the retired emperor Go-Shirakawa, Emperor Hanazono, and the Prince Sudatusa of Fushimi. By looking at the passion, admiration and biographies of these highly idiosyncratic individuals, the exhibition delves into previously unexplored context, offering an exciting new angle on the e-maki. May 14. 10am–6pm. Suntory Museum of Art, Tokyo Midtown Gardenside 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku. Nogizaka. Adult ¥1300/ College & HS ¥1000/ JH Free. www.bit.ly/2oAopxn PREMIUM BIKE IMPRESSION 2017 LONGWALK TOKYO © 坂茂／羽根木公園の家―景色の道／2011年 撮影：ジェレミ・ステラ Flickr user Edwin Martinez MAY 27 MAY 27–28 The Spartan Race has arrived in Japan! The world’s best obstacle course, which originally came from the mountains of Vermont, is now held in 30 countries with over 240 races. This year it will also take place in Sagami Depot with 7km of mud, fire, water, and barbed wire. Before convincing yourself that it isn’t for you, consider that the course is designed for athletes of all levels as a physical challenge that is great fun. The race will certainly spice up your weekly exercise routine, giving you an epic rush and expanding your limits. May 27, 9am. Starting at ¥15,000 for participants/¥1000 for spectators. Sagami Depot, Sagamihara-shi. Sagamihara. www.spartan.com/en/race/detail/2209/overview The single largest art festival in Asia is no small affair. Design Festa brings together those of all ages, cultures, nationalities, and languages, adding up to around 12,000 artists showcasing their work. Since it began in 1994, the event has become a melting pot for professional and amateur artists and designers. A new summer event has even been added to the calendar. Film screenings and musical performances take place on both indoor and outdoor stages. Whether you're exhibiting work or merely browsing, the two-day festival will bring diversity, enrichment, international cuisine and music to your Tokyo weekend. May 27–28, 11am–7pm. ¥1,000/¥800 in advance. Tokyo Big Sight. Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto-ku. Kokusai-teniji-seimon. www.designfesta.com/en SPARTAN RACE JAPAN 2017 PICTURE SCROLL MANIA DESIGN FESTA VOL.45 UNTIL JUNE 25 JAPAN, ARCHIPELAGO OF THE HOUSE “Japan, Archipelago of the House” is brought together by French photographer Jérémie Souteyrat and French architects Véronique Hours, Fabien Mauduit and Manuel Tardits, who have assembled a series of images exploring the history and future of Japanese residential architecture. The exhibit comes to Japan after a successful initial reception in France in 2014. The seventy residences selected here show the evolution of residential architecture in Japan as shaped by geography, natural environment, economy, industry, and society. Take a look at all the different homes, and lives, you may have had. Until June 25, 10am–6 pm. Closed Wed. ¥800 adult. Panasonic Shiodome Museum, Panasonic Tokyo Shiodome Bldg., 4F, 1-5-1 Higashishinbashi, Minatoku. Shimbashi. www.bit.ly/2pOLqAg 05 FOOD&DRINK TASTE THE HEAT Crispy on the outside BY JESSICA THOMPSON D espite insects, adverse weather conditions and logistical challenges, eating outdoors just seems to make food taste better. The multi-sensory experience of eating goes into overdrive as we subconsciously attach contextual memories of friends, weekends and warm weather to our grilled prawns and corn on the cob. The art of the barbecue has many variations on the theme throughout the world — in Jamaica it’s jerk chicken cooked in drum barrels, North Carolina has its slowly smoked pork with vinegary BBQ sauce, and in Argentina it's Asado barbeque with cow carcasses slung to parilla grills, cooked slowly over hot coals. Japan also has its own unique setup and food. THE BARBECUE The classic Japanese barbeque is a shichirin, a round, square or rectangular hollow earthen base fitted with a net top. These became popular during the Edo Period as an economical and practical alternative to traditional sunken irori hearths in houses. While shichirin were replaced with gas stoves in homes during the 1950s, they continue to have a place in grill restaurants and barbecue set-ups, as they’re small, lightweight, and impart a prized charcoal-grilled flavor. These days, konro is an umbrella term often used for Japanese barbecues, and encompasses shichirin as well as other portable barbecue varieties like single gas burners and stainless steel tabletop or standing grills. and still dominates the barbecue scene. The infrared heat emitted by binchotan charcoal cooks the meat on the surface at a high temperature, trapping the umami-rich juices inside. As the heat passes through, the outside becomes crispy while gently cooking the inside. As the juices drip onto the charcoal, the smoky, meaty plumes rise up to infuse the food with a deep, smoky taste. Barbecues and binchotan charcoal can generally be purchased at homeware stores like Don Quixote and Tokyu Hands, and online at Amazon or Rakuten. THE FOOD A popularity ranking of Japanese barbeque foods (katadukekotsu.com) shows meat in first place, followed by grilled vegetables, seafood, processed meats like wieners and bacon, mushrooms, salad vegetables, fried noodles, onigiri, cheese fondue and fruit. Foil-wrapped foods and skewered foods are also common. Given all this, here are some menu ideas for a Japanese-style barbecue: Meat with assorted condiments - In other countries, it’s popular to marinate meat and seafood in different rich sauces or rubs before grilling. In Japan, it’s more common to cook meat plain. Beef, pork and chicken are the most popular meats. Favorite cuts of beef are harami (skirt steak), cheeks, belly, boneless spare ribs, rosu (sirloin), tongue and offal. Popular pork cuts are spareribs and rosu, and popular chicken cuts include the thighs and wings. Serve grilled meat at a Japanese barbecue with condiments like lemon juice, ponzu, mayonnaise, yuzukosho, wasabi, butter and salt. THE FUEL While gas elements or briquettes are cheap and easy to manage, sumibiyaki (charcoal grilling) is the original method of Japanese barbeque, 06 Yaki-onigiri - Grill an onigiri on the barbecue until it gets a crispy, chewy exterior. Basting plain or salted onigiri in a little soy sauce, or a mixture of miso paste, mirin, sugar and water or mentsuyu as it cooks is popular. Alternatively, try a DIY rice burger by shaping onigiri into flatter patties, grilling them, then sandwiching in other barbecued ingredients. Potato with mentaiko mayo - This dish is a yatai favorite, but can easily be recreated in a barbecue setting. Serve grilled or foil-roasted potatoes with a rich sauce of equal parts mayonnaise and mentaiko (cod roe), mixed with a little olive oil and lemon juice. Soy, sake & butter scallops - Scallops in the shell are relatively easy to buy in Japan from supermarkets. Place them over a grill, add a little sake and butter and, when just about cooked, sprinkle a little soy sauce over them. Seafood with shiso & myoga tartar - also often grilled plain in Japan, seafood pairs nicely with the classic seafood dipping sauce, tartar. Popular seafood to grill includes prawns, crab, octopus, squid, aji (horse mackerel), torigai clams, scallops and sazae shells. Grilled seasonal vegetables - In addition to commonly barbecued vegetables in Japan like pumpkin, potato, mushrooms, renkon, daikon and onion, try grilling summer seasonal vegetables like corn, myoga (native Japanese ginger), zucchini, asparagus, green peppers and edamame. Shioyaki-zakana (salt-grilled fish) - Salt-grilling is a classic Japanese preparation technique for fish, where a whole fish is rubbed generously in salt and then grilled over coals. Shioyaki-ayu (sweetfish) are a common sight throughout summer, sold at yatai street food stands and festivals where skewered grilling fish surround pits of coal, ready to be devoured whole straight off the skewer. Mochi - Mochi (Japanese rice cakes) and barbecue are a match made in heaven. When grilled, they become crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside, and are also a substantial option for vegetarians. Himono - Himono are Japanese salted and dried fish, a food-preservation custom which goes back to ancient times. These are perfect for barbecuing, as the oily skin becomes crispy and the flesh soft and juicy. Grill skin-side down first, then flip once the flesh changes color a little. Togarashi & cheese corn - Similar to Mexican elotes, chargrill whole corn cobs, then, just before serving, brush with Kewpie mayonnaise and butter, sprinkle on a heavy-handed amount of powdered or grated parmesan cheese, a dusting of shichimi togarashi, salt and a squeeze of lemon or lime juice. Fish kama - Kama is the collarbone of a fish, and is generally a meaty, fatty part, so becomes incredibly rich and juicy when barbecued. Hamachi (yellowtail) and tuna kama are easy to get and cheap at supermarkets and fishmongers, and can be grilled with just a little salt and pepper for seasoning. Foil-wrapped fish and vegetables - Foil-wrapping is a popular cooking technique in Japan, both in the oven and on a stovetop or barbecue grill. Salmon, as well as summer seasonal fish like kisu, karei, mebaru and Japanese mushrooms like shiitake, eringi, shimeji, and enoki, work well as a foil-wrapped parcel combined with butter or olive oil, lemon, pepper and herbs for a succulent parcel. Tomato-bacon skewers - Known as "tomato beikon kushiyaki" in yakitori joints, these are an easy barbeque number. Take cherry tomatoes, wrap them in bacon, skewer them, sprinkle with a little salt and black pepper, then grill for around 5 minutes. Yakisoba - This one will need a flat barbque plate but is cheap and cheerful and feeds a crowd. Heat a little fat on the barbecue plate, then add the yakisoba noodles. Saute them a little, then push them to the side. Fry strips of pork belly, then add slices of onions, carrots, peppers and cabbage, meat of your choice, and a sprinkling of tenkasu (tempura crumbs) for a little crunch. Sauté until softened, then mix in with the noodles and yakisoba sauce. Serve as-is, or topped with a little pickled ginger and aonori (powdered seaweed). Cheese fondue - Cut a round section out of the top of the rind of a wheel of camembert, wrap it in foil, grill until it’s oozy, then grind over some black pepper, add a drizzle of honey, and serve with crusty bread or vegetables and fruit for dipping. Fruit - Pineapple, mango, peaches and kyoho (Japanese grapes) are all in season over the warmer months in Japan, and can all be thrown onto the barbecue grill. The natural sugars caramelise making them a perfect summertime dessert. For a list of great parks to barbeque at, visit metropolisjapan.com/taste-the-heat RECIPE SHISO & MYOGA TARTAR INGREDIENTS •100ml mayonnaise •50g sour cream •2 myoga (Japanese ginger) buds, chopped •½ cup sliced negi onion •2-3 shiso leaves, sliced •1 tablespoon chopped dill •1 tablespoon lemon juice •Salt and pepper to taste PREPARATION Combine all ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth, then serve with grilled, crumbed or battered seafood and vegetables. Keep chilled until ready to serve. 07 FOOD&DRINK CAFÉ ¥¥ EN/JP COFFEE WRIGHTS Relax with an aromatic brew in this Sangenjaya hide-out BY CRAIG ATKINSON A way from the crowds and on the fringe of the residential area in Sangenjaya is Coffee Wrights cafe. Built in the shell of an old hair salon, there you’ll find co-owner and head roaster Yuki Muneshima who, along with her experienced staff, has created a quiet space for coffee lovers. The cafe is a two-level building with the bottom floor dedicated to roasting, making and serving coffee. The roasting machine sits there, filling the cafe with the scent of the morning’s roast that lingers in the air throughout the day. In front of that, the brewing process takes place— hand drip, espresso or iced. There is also a selection of roasted beans available for home brewing. The second floor is clean and simple, exemplary of the current Tokyo trend favoring unfinished surfaces and understated decor. A plain wood staircase leads up to a room of recycled furniture, timber walls and an exposed ceiling, which is exactly how Muneshima wanted it. Seated next to the roaster, sorting through the day's roast, she smiles and tells me that the cafe came together quickly … though her 15 years of cafe experience helped in making decisions. As a former roaster for a large coffee company here in Tokyo, she explained that she wanted to be more involved and closer to the customers. So, late last year, she determined to strike out on her own, opening Coffee Wrights in December. The coffee menu covers all the usual regions: Brazil, Colombia, Guatemala, Kenya, and my current favorite, Ethiopia. Coffee Wrights roasts on the lighter side, for optimal taste and flavor. The coffee (¥480) was served in a large ceramic cup. It was light, delicate and floral—almost tea-like. To accompany your coffee, there is a choice of four hand-selected sweets made by Comma Coffee: A banana, pineapple and walnut pound cake (¥350); a green tea and black bean pound cake (¥450); a fruit tart (¥680); and anko butter cookies (¥350). Coffee Wrights isn't a place where people just pop in for a quick cup. (However, they do have a 'quick brew,' a pre-made house blend for ¥380.) This is a place where you relax, take your time, maybe meet a friend and appreciate the aromas and undertones that are expertly 08 brought out in the roast. Muneshima and her staff are dedicated to supplying and serving the best coffee possible in a friendly and casual setting. They are also working on expanding their wholesale market so others can enjoy their coffee. Coffee Wrights is well worth the short ride from Shibuya Station and is a great addition to the Sangenjaya neighborhood, which is already host to a treasure trove of mostly undiscovered gems. Coffee Wrights. 1 -32-21 Sangenjaya, Setagaya-ku. Sangenjaya. Tel: 03-6413-8686. Mon–Sun 9am–6pm. Closed Tues. coffee-wrights.jp www.dubliners.jp MONTHLY ¥500 PINT BEER DAY AT ALL 5 BRANCHES TUE, MAY 9 ¥500 PINTS OF DRAUGHT BEER ONLY ALL DAY (GUINNESS, KILKENNY, AND MORE) Shinjuku 2F Shinjuku Lion Hall 3-28-9 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 03-3352-6606 | [email protected] http://r.gnavi.co.jp/g209300/ Each branch has different hours Shibuya 2F Dogenzaka Center Bldg. 2-29-8 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku 03-5459-1736 |[email protected] http://r.gnavi.co.jp/g008214/ Akasaka B1 Sannou Park Tower 2-11-1 Nagatacho, Chiyoda-ku 03-3539-3615 | [email protected] http://r.gnavi.co.jp/g008233/ Closed: Sat., Sun., & Holidays Ikebukuro B1 Sun Gorou Bldg. 1-10-8 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku 03-5951-3614 | [email protected] http://r.gnavi.co.jp/g029000/ Shinagawa Shinagawa Mitsubishi Bldg. B1F Grand Passage 2-16-3 Kounan, Minato-ku 03-6718-2834 | [email protected] http://r.gnavi.co.jp/g008220/ We welcome all kinds of parties. Please contact us. 09 MOVIES BY DON MORTON FEATURED MOVIES FENCES T roy Maxton, a former ball player, an ex-con and now a Pittsburgh garbage collector, is in equal parts lovable and loathsome. He does his job, provides for his family, and spends each evening drinking gin and railing about the unfairness of life while never accepting the slightest blame for where he’s ended up. He belittles the dreams of his sons, fearing that they will be more successful and at the same time that they will be just like him. Director/star Denzel Washington spent six years bringing the late August Wilson’s 1983 Pulitzer and Tony Award-winning play to the screen, and the result is a performance-driven masterpiece on a variety of levels. Though it’s set in 1953, it’s at the same time eternal and immediate, and transcends race. The director resists the Hollywood bells and whistles, and doesn’t try to “open up” the play. It’s talky, as play adaptations will be, and there’s little actual action, but the material is so powerful BEAUTY AND THE BEAST Re g u l a r re a d e r s w i l l know that I’m not a huge fan of Disney’s criminal blandness and manipulative marketing. But I try to give the Mouse House its due when it gets it right, and I dug the 1991 animation. (And, for the record, I thought 2015’s reimagined Cinderella quite excellent.) But this reupholstered “live action” version (a misnomer, since it’s 95% frenetically edited computer animation surrounding a few blameless actors) left me cold. It’s 43 minutes longer and adds absolutely nothing, and I don’t know why it exists except to separate ‘tweeners from their allowances. Grumble grumble. (129 min) MR. RIGHT A scatterbrained ditz on the rebound finally finds the man of her dreams, except (quibble quibble) he’s a paid assassin. Anna Kendrick and Sam Rockwell brighten up this mean-spirited, forced screwball fantasy, but there’s only so much they can do. The film’s most cringe-worthy moments involve Kendrick dumbing her smart self down for the material. Sam wears a clown nose when he works, for no discernible reason except maybe for the movie poster. Marrying a cutesy concept to this kind of pointless violence is a hard thing to pull off, and while this one’s got plenty of attitude, it’s just feels wrong. (93 min) and the dialogue so spellbinding that even the multiplex crowd will be hooked. The actor’s visceral, vicious portrayal of Troy is lived-in and absolutely convincing (he was in the 2010 Broadway revival, as were most of the cast members here). It’s one of his best, right up THE EDGE OF SEVENTEEN An awkward high school junior’s already, like, totally annoying life gets infinitely more humiliating when her best (okay, only) friend starts dating her popular all-star older brother. Hailee Steinfeld (True Grit), expertly balancing snarky with sensitive, sympathetic with dislikable, manages to provide this often cookie-cutter character with some dimension, and elevates this witty and observant update of the old coming-of-age chestnut to the thoroughly watchable. Kind of like a John Hughes movie with depth and honesty. And cussing. Woody Harrelson is hilarious as the teacher that gets where she’s coming from. (104 min) SPLIT The good news is that James McAvoy gets to stretch his range as a loony tune with 23 personalities who kidnaps a trio of thinly drawn teenage girls (are all 23 okay with this?) who soon realize they have to get away before the emergence of a really nasty 24th. The bad is that it’s from M. Night Shayamalan, and though it’s marginally less absurd than the director’s recent disasters, he can’t seem to settle for making a serviceable psycho-thriller and has to include some lame and lurid third-act twist. So: overlong, child abuse, little tension, spotty plotting, and a moronic non-ending. Have fun. (117 min) there with Glory and Training Day. But it’s Viola Davis who steals the spotlight (and took home an Oscar), notably in one scene where Troy rather self-righteously delivers to her some unwanted, devastating news. Absolutely not to be missed. (139 min) ARRIVAL When a dozen huge alien spacecraft take up position at various points around the globe, a professor of linguistics (Amy Adams, perfect) is asked to try to establish communication. This is a plausible, non-glamorous and cerebral “what-if” alien visitation tale from Denis Villeneuve (Prisoners, Sicario) along the lines of 1997’s Contact. And like all good sci-fi stories, it looks inward at the human condition instead of up at the stars and has something to say about today’s world. It’s a beautiful and thought-provoking puzzle box of a movie that packs considerable emotional weight. Nominated for eight Oscars. (116 min) MANCHESTER BY THE SEA A morose, asocial janitor (an Oscar-winning Casey Affleck) is appalled to learn that his late brother has named him the guardian of his 16-year-old nephew, and returns to the title hometown with great reluctance. As this graceful tale of loss and grief unfolds, a window is opened onto a wounded soul, and we learn the reason for this reluctance. Yes, it’s depressing. But writer/director Kenneth Lonergan refuses to put a pretty bow on life’s untidiness. It’s never what you’d call hopeful. But neither is it hopeless. And the occasional, gently satirical comic twists add to its realism. A masterpiece. (137 min) Fences: (C)2016, 2017 Paramount Pictures; Beauty and the Beast: © 2016 Disney Enterprises inc. All Rights Reserved; The Edge of Seventeen: © MMXVI STX Productions, LLC. All Rights Reserved; Mr. Right: © 2016 Right Productions, LLC; Split: ©2017 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS. All Rights Reserved; Manchester by the Sea: ©2016 K Films Manchester LLC. All Rights Reserved. 10 More reviews: metropolisjapan.com/movies EIGA HIKARI BY ROB SCHWARTZ D irector Naomi Kawase occupies one of the most envied, and controversial, positions in Japanese cinema. The leading international film festival, Cannes, adores her and has supported her like no other auteur in the history of Japanese movies. Her first feature-length fiction film Moe no Suzaku was awarded the Camera D’Or (best new director award) at Cannes in 1997, and in 2007 her fourth feature Mogari no Mori (The Mourning Forest) walked away with the Grand Prix (the 2nd most prestigious award at the fest after the Palme D’Or). These honors seem to have assured her a lifetime place at the fest. Her 2011 effort, Hanezu, premiered in competition, and in 2013 she was a Cannes main competition jury member. Then once again her 2014 pic, Futatsu no Mado (Still the Water), premiered in competition. Many thought this to be the end of the love affair, as critics panned the work and some called it the worst flick at the event that year. But in 2015 An (Sweet Bean) was included in the much sought after Un Certain Regard section. Her current creation, Hikari, will premiere in competition at the fest later this month and open May 27 in Japan. Kawase’s style is quiet, imagistic and atmo- of going blind. He harangues heroine Misako (Ayase Mizuzaki) during a test run of her audio guide narration for the blind of a film-within-a-film. But Misako is improbably drawn to Nakamori, supposedly due to the genius of one of his photos of a sunset. The movie meanders between this and a subplot about her mother, replete with unnecessary detail, such as the contents of her late father’s wallet. There are some nice moments in Hikari, as when Nakamori photographs children, but in general the piece is infused with sentimentality and some overlong scenes. Kawase remains the most celebrated enigma in Japanese cinema, and Hikari will please her hardcore fans but won’t win many converts. (English title: Radiance; 101 min.) Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku; www.ht-cinema.com). The Spanish drama The Olive Tree focuses on a socially-conscious young woman who reaches out to her estranged grandfather only to learn he is depressed because the family sold his beloved century-old tree to a corporation to use as its logo. Starting late May at Cine Switch in Ginza (4-4-5 Ginza, Chuo-ku; www. cineswitch.com). The German comedy-drama Me and Kaminski explores issues of mortality and journalistic ethics as it follows a young reporter (Daniel Bruhl) as he goes on a road trip with the elderly painter who is the subject of his book, all the while hoping the old man would boost sales by finally dying. Starts April 29 at Yebisu Garden Cinema (4-20-2 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; www.unitedcinemas.jp/yebisu) © 2013 Wildside sphere-driven, sometimes to the point of being incoherent. For example, her 2008 effort Nanayomachi was filmed in Thailand and most of the flick features two characters who don’t speak the same language. There’s no doubt that some of her frames are beautifully shot and the filmmaker’s background in documentary means the pieces often have a stark realism that can be affecting. But lately Kawase has been falling prey to pretentious profundity (as in Futatsu no Mado) or schmaltz, a criticism often levied at An, which also featured the male lead of Hikari, Masatoshi Nagase. Nagase portrays Nakamori, a brilliant but irascible photographer who is in the last stages CINEMATIC UNDERGROUND SOCIAL ILLS European films tackle the big questions BY KEVIN MCGUE T he French drama Courted casts veteran actor Fabrice Luchini as a stern, unfeeling judge whose orderly world is turned upside-down when one of his jurors turns out to be an old flame he has never forgotten. The character embarks on the kind of emotional awakening that is Luchini’s trademark. On from May 13 at Shibuya’s Image Forum Theatre (2-10-2 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; www.imageforum.co.jp) The mini festival Viva Italia returns for its third installment of contemporary Italian movies. The lineup this year includes The Mafia Kills Only in Summer (pictured) a comedy about a Sicilian journalist who grows up worshiping the mafia but comes to see them for what they are, and the drama Days and Clouds about an upper-middle-class couple who must readjust to life without luxury when the husband loses his job. The fest kicks off May 27 at Human Trust Cinema Yurakucho (2-7-1 11 THE CITY TEAHOUS TRADITIONAL Where to go for an authentic steep BY MANDY LYNN L et your tastebuds experience the transition from traditional Japanese tea to today’s modern-day blends. Even in Tokyo’s hyperurban sprawl, you can find pockets of quiet to savor the combination of rich teas and the delicate Japanese sweets, perfectly formulated from a rich legacy of this ancient beverage. TOKYO SARYO Tokyo’s first green tea drip café, Tokyo Saryo, opened its doors this January in the affluent neighborhood Sangenjaya, with the aim to promote good green tea to the younger generation. Everything about this sleek, minimalist café exudes an air of simplicity and serenity, from its interior décor and furniture, to its tableware, 12 cutlery, and of course, its teas. There are currently seven teas available, with plans to bring in more, such as uji and sayama green teas. Each tea is steeped three times at varying temperatures: the first at 70°C, the second at 80°C, and the third at 90°C with roasted genmai (brown rice) that emanates a robust smokiness. The most popular teas are 001 Harumoegi and 007 Yoino Shichiyousei. The former is a clear and light traditional tea, while the latter is a little sweeter and smoother on the palate; both are extremely easy to drink. My personal favorite, 004 Yabukita Yame, is a tea full of umami aromas that I was instantly captivated by. Each steeping only served to deepen its flavors, and strengthen its bitter nuances. SES FROM L TO MODERN beautifully with the well-rounded softness of green tea. It is best paired with wagashi (traditional Japanese confections): the preserved red date with walnut and cream cheese, and ichigo daifuku (mochi stuffed with strawberry). Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience. Spiral 5F, 5-6-23 MinamiAoyama, Minato-ku. Omotesando. Tel: 03-6451-1539. Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat-Sun 11am-8pm. KOSO-AN For the full experience, opt for the yōkan (Japanese thick jellied dessert) of dried fruit and nut, their version of the traditional yōkan commonly served with green tea. Tokyo Saryo. 1-34-15 Kamiuma, Setagaya-ku. Sangenjaya. Tue-Fri 1pm-8pm; Sat-Sun 11am-8pm. The first thing that struck me about Koso-an was its architecture. Built by tennis buddies Watanabe Hirohiko and Matsuoka Nobuo in 1945 in the Showa Era with the aim of providing a place of relaxation after their games, Koso-an was structured with sentimental meaning, using Watanabe’s favorite mulberry timber obtained from Nagaoka in Niigata Prefecture. The teahouse and gallery were later introduced in 1999 to offer respite for those tired of Jiyugaoka’s cityscape. Folk craft and antiques displayed around the teahouse create an ambience reminiscent of traditional tea ceremonies. There are 10 options on the menu, all of which come with houjicha and wagashi. For a taste of Japanese tradition, I recommend the matcha, shiratama zenzai (dango with red bean soup), and anmitsu (agar jelly dessert served with Japanese sweet red bean paste and black honey syrup) if you prefer something sweeter. The sweetness of wagashi truly complements the subtle fragrance and roast flavors of the tea. Koso-an. 1-24-23 Jiyugaoka, Meguro-ku. Jiyugaoka. Mon-Sun 11:30am-6:30pm. SAKURAI JAPANESE TEA EXPERIENCE Situated on the fifth level of Spiral Building, it’s hard to imagine this tranquil space exists within bustling Omotesando. Upon entering and getting one whiff of the heady aroma of teas in the air, one immediately feels a sense of calm and time seems to come to a standstill. This intimate eight-seater offers an extensive menu of Japanese teas, ranging from the commonplace sencha to premium grade matcha and original house blends. There is an aura reminiscent of traditional medicinal uses of tea—servers are dressed in pressed white lab coats, teas are brewed in giant round-bottomed lab flasks, and their leaves are displayed in glass test tubes. The tea shop offers à la carte and several tea courses for a tasting experience of premium single origin teas, as well as original house blends such as gobo (burdock root) with Japanese black tea and fermented green tea with ginger and mikan (tangerine). I particularly enjoyed the houjicha, a type of Japanese green tea roasted in a porcelain pot over charcoal instead of the usual steaming process, resulting in hints of smokiness that blends 13 CITYPOP New sub-genre "future funk" takes us back to the Bubble years BY PATRICK ST. MICHEL E verything old becomes fashionable again at some point, and the same holds true in Japan. Recently, a glitzed-out style of music that was big in the 1980s, called “city pop,” is enjoying a bit of a resurgence nationwide. Fittingly for songs made during the country’s luxurious Bubble years, city pop songs are finely produced numbers loaded up with brass sections, neon-tinged synthesizers and lyrics about living the high life in the city. Lately, reissued versions of the biggest albums from this period have arrived on store shelves, while city pop tunes have become central to a whole sub-genre of music called “future funk.” And of course, a new wave of artists inspired by the original style—or at least tagged as being inspired by, even if they really aren’t—have emerged. The economic conditions of Japan in 2017 are no where close to the excess of the ‘80s, so the music isn’t quite a copy. It’s less dizzying and more chilled out, but still focuses on urban life (where everyone is flocking). It isn’t simple cut-copy stuff, but rather a variety of artists adding their own contemporary twists to the style. To help you navigate this emerging scene—and maybe find some tunes for the summer—here’s a guide to the new city pop crowd. THE TOP TIER No group has achieved as much success using acid-jazz-inspired sounds as Suchmos, a Kanagawa-born group taking cues from Jamiroquai and Random Access Memories-era Daft Punk. They broke out in early 2016 with the skippy “Stay Tune,” which shined on YouTube 14 and currently boasts over 20 million views. Earlier this year, they released their sophomore album The Kids, a set of easy-breezy numbers that has proven a huge success, and pushed the band to the next level of media attention. They are already slated to appear at this year’s Summer Sonic, and expect them to pop up at even more gatherings across Japan in the warmer months. MUSIC TO LOUNGE OUT TO Sonically, many of the new wave of city-popindebted groups play music at a slower, loungeready pace. Trio Lucky Tapes have stood out thanks to their half-speed funk, becoming a live favorite with songs built around horn blurts and bass. It helps that the lead vocals, courtesy of former electronic producer Kai Takahashi, meld along nicely with the mellow music. Rising up as of late as well is Special Favorite Music, a seven-person outfit originally playing zippy indie-pop, but which pivoted to jazzy funk last year. Their first single “Ceremony” features calming flute and dramaraising strings. Expect an album later on this year. A POPPIN’ TIME Not all of this decade’s city pop sounds best while sprawled out on a couch. Bubble-era songs drew heavily from emerging forms of dance music, and bands such as Awesome City Club carry on that tradition by working in neon-bright synthesizer melodies alongside bouncy beats and tag-team vocals. Quartet Shiggy Jr. are even more direct, crafting rubbery numbers that shuffle up to the chorus, when the group just lets the music burst open. If you need some good hooks to shout along to while driving this summer, look towards this tier. LONGPLAYERS Trends are only trends when they are in the spotlight; many artists still embrace a style even when it’s out of fashion. So it is with city pop, which had plenty of practitioners before it became a buzzword. Asako Toki, formerly a member of Shibuyakei band Cymbals, launched a solo career borrowing from ‘80s sounds, and released the catchy set Pink earlier this year, featuring no shortage of throwback synths and bass slaps. She also appeared on the latest album from G.Rina this January. A fan of keytars and well-aged rhythm boxes, she’s been constructing pop nodding to those gold-dusted days for a while now, and still does it better than most. BEYOND THE CITY LIGHTS The Japanese underground scene features many artists equally keen on ‘80s sounds, but reconfigured into new ways far different from what’s found higher up. Tokyo’s Boogie Idol creates shimmering numbers that take cues from old pop songs … and in-store background music. The end result is dazzling. Last month, electronic project Pasocom Music Club released Park City, a collection similarly drawing from cheesy sounds of yesteryear but arranging them into energetic dance numbers. 15 ART YAYOI KUSAMA: MY ETERNAL SOUL A retrospective exhibition of the prolific artist's work, running until May 22 at the National Art Center Tokyo BY GIANNI SIMONE 16 W hen asked to name internationally famous Japanese artists, most people will probably answer Yoko Ono (whose brilliant career is perennially obscured by her also being Mrs. Lennon) or Takashi Murakami. However, few people can match Yayoi Kusama’s presence on the world stage or the sheer influence she has had on contemporary artists. Time magazine recently included her in its list of the world's “100 Most Influential People” – the only Japanese to make the list. Although her name may not immediately ring a bell with many, her polka-dotted works and brightly colored giant pumpkins are instantly recognizable. The National Art Center is currently showing My Eternal Soul, one of her biggest shows to date, and a tour de force covering her entire career from her beginnings to her most recent work-in-progress project. Chronologically speaking, the exhibition starts from the end: we enter a huge space whose walls are covered with 132 pieces never before seen in Japan. These works belong to the 500-painting-strong “My Eternal Soul” series, on which Kusama has been frantically working since 2009. As she says in the audio guide available to the visitors, “I’m so focused [on this project] that I even forget to eat, and there are times I’m so tired I faint.” Apparently she works so quickly and with such a concentration that she manages to finish one 194cm x 194cm painting in just two or three days. The series is marked by extremely rich variation, with figurative motifs and abstract patterns freely coexisting. It’s a riot of funnily scary faces, amoebas and thousands of small spying eyes. Some of these works are monochrome while others show an array of colors including gold, silver and copper. The overall effect of seeing all these works next to each other is simply overwhelming. The great novelty of this exhibition is that, in this particular room, people can actually take pictures with their phones. As a result, the usual quiet contemplation of an art museum is replaced by people dashing from one corner of the room to another, trying to take as many souvenir photos as possible. Luckily, this is the only place where picturetaking is allowed. For people who only know Kusama’s later works, the next room is eye-opening: it exhibits her early drawings and paintings. As a child, Kusama was plagued by hallucinations (the violets that grew near her house would turn into people’s faces and begin to talk to her) and began painting to escape her fears. In the 1950s, Kusama was depicting both abstract and natural forms and developed a variety of motifs based on plant and animal forms, the planets and universe. Her works from 195052 show a maturity that belies her young age. Looking at Accumulation of the Corpses (1950), one can only try to imagine the kind of nightmares and hallucinations she experienced at the time. Though beautiful and artistically accomplished, these early works directly speak to our purest emotions. We next jump to Kusama’s American period. In 1957 she “escaped” (as she has often said) to the U.S., settling down in New York in 1958 and grabbing the local artists’ attention with her Infinity Net paintings, several of which are also on display. These vast fields of canvas filled with a mesh of monochrome strokes have neither boundaries nor center and eliminate composition. At the time they were regarded as fresh and innovative, anticipating the aesthetics of Minimal Art that would become mainstream in the 1960s. Even today they never cease to mesmerize. A few years later, in 1962, Kusama began to challenge traditional concepts of sculpture being made from wood, metal or stone, by creating so-called soft sculptures — soft phallic protrusions affixed to furniture and other ready-made objects. The ladder and dresser displayed in Tokyo, together with the macaronicovered coat, have been explained as obsessions with sex and food. One of the most outstanding works Kusama has ever made is Aggregations (One Thousand Boats Show) (1963), an installation of a boat painted silver and covered with phallic protrusions, along with 999 posters portraying the same boat on the surrounding gallery walls, ceiling and floor. This has been reconstructed at this exhibition by using Walking on a Sea of Death, a similar-looking work from 1981. Kusama’s famous pumpkins can be found in several places throughout the exhibition. She first saw pumpkins in the fields around her house when she was a child, and they appear even in her early Nihonga paintings. “I was enchanted by the charming form of pumpkins and became interested in creating pumpkin-like large, bulbous decorated bellies. Their strong spiritual balance appealed to me,” she says. Of course such a comprehensive retrospective wouldn’t be complete without the Infinite Mirror Room installation that first appeared in her November 1965 solo exhibition. The work combines a mirror room with electric lights. The brightcolored lights flickering in infinite space represent the concrete realization of “the soul wandering between life and death in an ecstatic space,” as Kusama described in her autobiography. The third part of the exhibition covers Kusama’s return to Japan. After the deaths of many people close to her and suffering from mental illness, the artist moved back to Tokyo in 1973. While living in a psychiatric hospital, she immersed herself in creating collages, pasting printed photos of plants and animals to paper and adding patches of watercolor and gouache paint. Though these works are not as famous as her polka dots, infinity nets and pumpkins, they show a more introspective side of her work. These are also some of the most beautiful works she has ever produced. “The universe keeps dying and being reborn,” she says about these works. “This cycle will go on forever, even after I die. I’m forever grateful to god that gave me my talent and introduced me to the art world. I may have created thousands of works, but when I’m gone the world will go on forever, even without me.” Following Kusama’s infinity themes, the exhibition is laid out in a circular way, so when you reach the end, you can start all over again, and again. Considering the massive human jams caused by all the people visiting the show, this was an excellent idea. Having just turned 88, Kusama could be excused if she decided to hang her brushes and ink pens and enjoy some rest but, judging by her recent exceptional output, she is not finished yet. Indeed, her parting words confirm her commitment to her art: “Today’s world is marked by a lot of anxiety connected to ever-growing strife between nations and individuals and to elusive prospects for peace. We must, as human beings, be ever more determined to build a better world through cooperation. I have always been dedicated to my art, struggling day and night to create. I intend to continue as long as my heart keeps beating. My greatest desire is that my vision of a future of eternal harmony among people be carried on." 17 A NEW CHAMPION APPEARS A Japanese sumo wrestler reclaims the grand title STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHRIS GOULD 18 S umo returns to Tokyo’s Ryogoku Kokugikan May 14th–28th, and with an even more earth-shattering development than usual. For the first time in 14 years, fans will be able to witness a homegrown grand champion plying his trade. Thirty-year-old Kisenosato Yutaka finally ascended to sumo’s highest rank in January this year, after claiming his maiden top-division championship. In doing so, he became the first Japanese to be promoted to sumo’s yokozuna apex since 1998, and will become the first grand champion to grace a Tokyo ring since Takanohana in January 2003. The rules of sumo are refreshingly simple: the first wrestler to touch down inside the ring, or step out of it, is the loser. Most bouts are over in a matter of seconds, but some thrilling encounters may last several minutes. The force with which two 150-kilogram behemoths collide is genuinely frightening, and truly incredible power is needed to withstand an opponent's charge, drive him backwards and throw him to the ground. Yokozuna status is the highest honor in sumo. Since the sport turned professional in the 1760s, only 73 men have ever attained the rank. No clear promotion criteria are defined, but the general consensus is that a wrestler on the second rank of ozeki must either win two tournaments in a row, or win 27 bouts out of 30 to get there. Once at the summit, the yokozuna is not only expected to give an excellent account of himself, but to bear responsibility for the public standing of the entire sumo association. Should he ever commit the cardinal sin of losing more matches than he wins in a tournament, he must tender his resignation immediately. Kisenosato’s 188-cm, 180-kg frame certainly embodies a force to be reckoned with. At present, he is the youngest of the current yokozuna and seemingly at the zenith of his powers. His courageous fight-back on the final day of the March tournament in Osaka, when he overcame injury to defeat gargantuan Mongolian Terunofuji twice in 30 minutes, captured the hearts of the nation. The pressure to restore domestic pride in Japan’s national sport remains tremendous, but Kisenosato at last looks capable of rising to the challenge. The protracted birth of a home-grown grand champion is the by-product of an unprecedented period of foreign domination in sumo. Since the Mongolian wrestler Asashoryu embarked upon his record-breaking 11 tourney wins out of 12 in January 2004, only six of the ensuing 79 tournaments have been won by Japanese. The current grand champion, Hakuho Sho, also from Mongolia, has captured a jaw-dropping 37 of the championships—a sumo record. Although subdued by the effects of injury these days, his speed of thought remains undiminished, and he will doubtless exhibit breathtaking flashes of skill as he chases down retired ozeki Kaio’s all-time record of 1047 career wins. Hakuho and Kisenosato will be joined on the top rank by two more Mongolians, Harumafuji and Kakuryu, each of whom is capable of producing trophy-winning form. Indeed, fans will be treated to the rare spectacle of four yokozuna ring-entering ceremonies per day, each of which sees a grand champion don a magnificent white copper-cord belt and thunderously stamp his feet on the dohyo to drive away evil spirits. There are, of course, several other wrestlers worthy of attention. Terunofuji, presently on the second rank, stands 193 centimeters tall, weighs a massive 190 kilograms, and would likely be a yokozuna by now were it not for an untimely knee injury. He has already taken home the coveted Emperor’s Cup once, and—as the last tournament indicated—could be unstoppable if the stars align in his favor. His fellow second-ranker, Goeido, has also won a tournament championship and is something of a technical magician. He will be fighting desperately to retain his rank after withdrawing from the March tournament due to injury. Anxious to either join him there or replace him will be Takayasu, Kisenosato’s younger stablemate, oft-touted as Japan’s next great hope. For sheer showmanship, however, look no further than Ura, the smallest wrestler in the top two divisions at just 173 centimetres and 113 kilograms, renowned for dazzling his foes with a series of leaps, bounds and devastating throws. However, a day at the sumo is about so much more than just the fighting. It is about the awesome sight of the kimono-clad wrestlers entering the arena, the sounds of the claves and the referee’s kabuki-style wailing; and the smells of beer, bento boxes and bintzuke—the overpowering liniment oil used to lacquer the wrestlers’ hair. You can find numerous souvenirs inside the arena, ranging from wrestler-themed key rings and rice crackers to grand champion handprints and the woodblock impressions of top sumo artist Daimon Kinoshita. Intriguing sumo memorabilia can also be witnessed in both the sumo museum and the resplendent entrance hall trophy cabinet. You can even sample one of sumo’s signature chanko nabe stew recipes for a bargain ¥300 in the Kokugikan basement between 12pm and 2pm each day. Food lovers will be pleased to learn that the area surrounding Ryogoku is awash with sumo-themed restaurants, many of which are owned by ex-wrestlers keen to monetize their trusted chanko recipes. Arguably top of the pile is Chanko Yoshiba, located a sevenminute walk from the Kokugikan on the opposite side of the picturesque Yasuda Memorial Garden. Another popular hangout is Chanko Kirishima, to be found next to the McDonald’s on Kokugikan Street. It is managed by a former top-division champion named Kirishima Kazuhiro, who makes a point of greeting each of his customers on a match day. Outside the restaurant stands one of several sumo statues lining the main road, underneath which several bronze handprints of sumo greats can be found. The line of s tatues terminates at the T-junction of Kokugikan Street and Keio Street, behind which stands the imposing red gate of the famous Eko-in. The grounds of this Buddhist temple also host the towering Sumo Stone of Strength, erec ted in 1936 to celebrate the survival of the sumo association in highly adverse economic and social conditions. In short, prepare your sel ves for an other action-packed for tnight along the banks of the Sumida River. 19 SEIJI SAVES JAPAN A lifesaver's mission to make sports safer, in and out of the water BY SEAN MAY T Photos by Cedric Diradourian, suit and t-shirt by FranCisT_ MOR.K.S. 20 he call came from another beach further down the Shonan coast, an area 50km southwest of Tokyo. A boy was lost; one moment he was playing in the surf and the next he was gone. Seiji Iinuma scanned the horizon with his binoculars. He did not have a good feeling about the outcome. A recent graduate of Tokai University and a former member of the school’s lifesaving team, Iinuma knew the emergency procedures. Lifesavers at the beach where the boy went missing would first deploy jet skis and, if he had not been found, volunteers would then form a human chain and scour the sea. But he also knew that the likelihood of survival decreased with every minute. Information trickled in slowly throughout the day—boy, around 10, swimming unsupervised—but the sun soon set and the search was handed over to the authorities. Iinuma returned to his post the following morning. The scene he witnessed still troubles him now: he saw a solitary figure canvassing the beach, calling out a name like a mantra, over and over again. It was the missing boy’s name, and it was his mother who, without rest or sleep, wandered up and down the coastline in search of her missing boy. “It was a heart-wrenching moment,” Iinuma says of the event, twenty years later. “Seeing the frantic search for loved ones is, for me, always worse than seeing a dead body.” The incident was the first fatality Iinuma encountered in his lifesaving career. And what he learned on that fateful day, he remembered throughout his career: the suddenness with which tragedy can strike. Not long after the incident on the Shonan beach, Oceanman Series, the world championships of competitive lifesaving, offered Iinuma a spot on the tour. The year was 1997 and Iinuma had just scored a graduate job with JTB, the largest travel agency in Japan. He had spent his student days volunteering at Shonan and entering lifesaving competitions, in which he achieved impressive results, so much so that despite being a new hire at the travel agency, he was allowed to take significant time off from JTB to travel the world on the Oceanman circuit. Competitive lifesaving is a sport that mimics rescues in that it places the participants in testing conditions. Lifesavers compete in a race that combines four aspects of surf lifesaving— running, swimming, board paddling and ocean kayaking—on a course that takes them over thunderous beach breaks. The Oceanman Series was the first competitive lifesaving event that gathered the best lifesavers from around the world. Standing with Iinuma at the starting line at Piha Beach, New Zealand, on the first leg of the 1997 series, were the greats of the sport, figures like Trevor Hendy and Nathan Meyer. One competitor, on a TV broadcast of the series, called the event “A dream come true. Like the Olympics of lifesaving.” Iinuma placed 28th that day, though this was a feat in itself. The conditions at Piha Beach were so rough that four competitors needed to be rescued. Iinuma was reminded again of the dangers of the water. The ocean can swallow even the best lifesavers from countries with proud surf lifesaving cultures like Australia and New Zealand. However, it was what these colleagues told him that was the most sobering. Fellow competitors warned Iinuma of the large numbers of Japanese tourists needing rescues by surf life-saving clubs in other countries. They implored Iinuma to return to Japan and raise beach safety awareness. “Beachgoers in countries like Australia seek out areas where lifesavers patrol the ocean. It’s ingrained in the culture,” says Iinuma, “but Japanese people look for uncrowded spots on the beach. We do not have a culture of following safety protocols at the beach.” Iinuma returned from the tour with a new mission. He would be the best educator of ocean safety in Japan. He sought support from local governments to spread awareness of the dangers of the sea to the people of Japan, and ran classes teaching response techniques in emergencies. He even started a surf lifesaving club in Tateyama, Chiba, where he coached lifesaving techniques he learned abroad and enforced discipline on the local crew. But an accident involving a friend in 2011 forced Iinuma to grapple with the literal meaning of lifesaving—the act of saving another person’s life. Naoki Matsuda, a 34-year-old professional footballer, collapsed one day while training with his club, Matsumoto Yamaga FC. Matsuda had had an illustrious career, representing the Japanese national team 40 times. After a 15-minute warmup, he laid down and told his teammates that he was tired and, without warning, slipped out of consciousness. The team physicians speculated that he had suffered from heatstroke, as Japan was, at that time, in the midst of a heatwave that had claimed 43 lives in the prior two months. They immediately began resuscitation efforts, however, when Matsuda’s heartbeat stopped. But Matsuda never regained consciousness. He passed away two days later from complications related to his cardiac arrest. What had happened to Matsuda was a tragic and often overlooked aspect of an athlete’s life. Sudden deaths happen to roughly one in 200,000 young athletes under the age of 35. These men and women, at the peak of physical fitness, often succumb to various conditions, of which heart-related conditions are the most prominent. But Iinuma believes Matsuda’s death—and many cases like his—could have been prevented. If only an automated external defibrillator (AED) was on hand, Iinuma thinks, Matsuda would have survived. AEDs, though, were readily available in Japan when the accomplished footballer collapsed. In 2004, Prince Takamado, first cousin to Emperor Akihito and who was dubbed the “Sports Prince” for his love of sports, collapsed from ventricular fibrillation while playing squash with the Canadian ambassador in Akasaka, Tokyo. It was reported that the Prince would have survived had an AED been available, and the untimely death of a young and active member of the Imperial Family shocked the nation. The death of the Prince prompted lawmakers to change the rules regarding AEDs, the use of which was previously restricted to medical personnel. AEDs were approved for public use and devices were placed in publics spaces across Japan. Following Matsuda’s death, the Japan Football Association made it a requirement for stadiums and training facilities to have AEDs available. Now, Japan boasts over 600,000 AEDs in public spaces and the numbers per capita is purported to be one of the highest in the world. “AEDs can save lives,” says Iinuma. “But it is also important that people know how to use it.” Following the sudden death of Matsuda, Iinuma was once again reminded that danger always lurks and even top athletes are not guaranteed safety. Beachgoers are protected by lifeguards who patrol beaches and ensure safety. But on the football fields and basketball courts and anywhere else sport is played, who will save the athletes? With this in mind, Iinuma founded Athlete Save Japan in 2015. Through ASJ, he aims to reduce the number of sudden deaths in sports, especially by educating the public on the use of AEDs. Out of 70,000 heart attacks a year, only in 4% of cases are AEDs used, often due to unfamiliarity with the device. “This is not an uncommon thing to happen to athletes,” Iinuma says, “Take the Tokyo Marathon for example. Out of the 11 times the marathon has been held, eight people have collapsed from cardiac arrests. Or the recent Nagoya Women’s— three runners’ hearts stopped.” “But people enjoy sports at different levels, from top athletes to hobbyists to kids. And for people to safely enjoy sports, everyone involved—coaches, guardians and the athletes themselves—must know basic safety measures.” ASJ operates on two fronts. First, the organisation hold classes, much like when Iinuma worked to spread awareness for ocean safety, called Inochi no Kyoushitsu (classroom of life), to coach safety response. Another way ASJ promotes safety in sports is through influence. Iinuma recognizes the role athletes play in influencing youths. As lifesavers like Hendy and Meyer influenced Iinuma in his youth, so too can top athletes be role models for children. ASJ ambassadors include well-known Japanese athletes such as footballer Shinji Ono, marathon runner Ari Ichibashi, and swimmer Kyoko Iwasaki. Among his many other activities, including promoting outdoor activities in Kyushu, Iinuma has found his latest mission through ASJ. “I want to eliminate sudden deaths in athletes in Japan leading to the Tokyo 2020 Olympics.” 21 Camp Out, Fest Out BY LUCY DAYMAN As we roll out of the darkness of winter through the sakura-mad spring season, it’s time to get outside and celebrate. There’s no better way to enjoy Japan’s warmer months than by taking advantage of the country’s incredible season of music festivals. In Japan the music festival circuit is as diverse as the people that attend. Whether it’s big-name rock icons or obscure electronic musicians, we’ve put together a guide to some of the best outdoor music events for 2017’s spring/ summer months. EDC JAPAN April 29th–30th Electric Daisy Carnival is one of the biggest dance music celebrations in the world. Originating in Las Vegas, Nevada, it has now become a global phenomenon. In April the arrival of EDC in Chiba (a short trip from central Tokyo) unofficially marks the beginning of Japan’s music festival season. For the 2017 leg of the tour, festival organizers have gone all-out, booking the biggest international names in electronic music, including headliners Fatboy Slim, Zedd Afrojack, Armin Van Buuren and Martin Garrix alongside local heroes A.Mochi, Banvox and Licaxxx. For lovers of dance, EDM, techno and everything in between, EDC is the perfect kickoff for your 2017 summer festival assault. japan.electricdaisycarnival.com/en RAINBOW DISCO CLUB May 3rd–5th Rapidly garnering a reputation for being one of the country’s best and most underrated festivals, Rainbow Disco Club will be celebrating its seventh year this spring. Located in the scenic Izu Peninsula, the three-day camping and arts event is the perfect low-key antidote to the country’s mega-dance music events that engulf the country during the warmer months. With one of the most well-curated lineups on the festival calendar, 2017 sees contemporary house, disco and dance legends Floating Points, Hessle Audio (Ben UFO, Pangaea and Pearson Sound) share stages with Japan’s finest: Keita Sano, DJ Nobu and Akiko Kiyama. www.rainbowdiscoclub.com JAPAN JAM May 4th–6th Held over three days at Chiba City’s Sports Park, Japan Jam is a take-no-prisoners rock celebration. While electronic music events have begun to swell in popularity, it’s fair to say that Japan still unashamedly loves rock and roll. A strictly day-only affair, festival-goers are recommended to book their Chiba accommodation early unless they don’t mind having to make the daily 40-minute commute from Tokyo Station to the festival site. This year sees local guitar-wielding heroes 22 Crossfaith, The Oral Cigarettes and Acidman headline the 2017 event. japanjam.jp RE: BIRTH FESTIVAL May 12th–14th Now in its fourth year, RE: Birth festival was born from the need to rebuild and come together to help stimulate Japan’s party scene following the devastating 2011 earthquake. As of last year, the festival has made its home at an abandoned quarry on the scenic Nokogiri Mountain in Chiba, Japan. With an emphasis on underground music, RE: Birth showcases house, dance, bass, techno and psytrance as well as live bands. RE: Birth is a fully inclusive affair: The festival creators have worked hard to create a diverse environment, bringing together people from different backgrounds. The common goal is to get lost in music and art. www.rebirth-fes.com festival organizers would kill for. This year is potentially the biggest yet, with the bill featuring Battles, Lil’ Simz, Moodymann, KOHH and Motor City Drum Ensemble. taicoclub.com/17 GREENROOM FESTIVAL ITADAKI May 20th–21st May Hosted in Yokohama, Tokyo’s seaside sister city, Greenroom Festival is a celebration of surf culture and bayside lifestyle through world-class music, art and film. Taking over the Red Brick Warehouse in Yokohama’s scenic Minato Mirai district, 2017 sees roots and rock heroes Jake Bugg, Izzy Bizu, Michael Franti, and SOJA headline the two-day event. As well as a live music stage, Greenroom also hosts a mini film festival, screening some of the best contemporary and retro surf films. You can purchase a one- or two-day pass, which will give you access to everything the festival has to offer. greenroom.jp June 3rd—4th If the big-name, international-headlined events are not your style and you’re on the hunt for something a little more domestic, Shizouka’s Itadaki Festival is the way to go. Hosted in Yoshida Park along the stunning Suruga Bay coast, Itadaki is a family-friendly, chilled-out two-day camping event that feels equal parts beach holiday and music festival. Attracting some of Japan’s most interesting up-and-coming names, it’s a great opportunity to enjoy the sweltering Japanese heat while discovering your new favorite local band. www.itadaki-bbb.com/2017/story TAICO CLUB May 27th– 28th Rolling through two days, Taico Club boasts one of the most diverse but accessible lineups Japan’s 2017 festival season has to offer. Situated at camping haven Kodama No Mori in Nagano, Taico Club is without a doubt a mustvisit for those who love festivals, but can’t stand the one-day super-jammed festival crush. Now in its 12th year, the event has managed to keep a relatively low profile, resulting in an organic evolution and fan base swell that other FUJI ROCK July 28th—30th A pilgrimage to Fuji Rock, the most internationally-recognized name on Japan’s festival circuit, is a rite of passage for pretty much every live music fan. It feels right to wrap up this list with Fuji. Located at the Naeba Ski Resort in Niigata, Fuji Rock is the pinnacle of big-name, mainstream rock music festivals. For its 2017 incarnation, the festival behemoth features the unbelievable bill of Gorillaz, Queens of the Stone Age, The xx, Aphex Twin, LCD Soundsystem, Bjork and Lorde—just to name a few. fujirock-eng.com Clockwise from top: Taico Club, Taico Club, Akiko Kiyama, Floating Points, DJ Nobu, Green Room Festival, Taico Club 23 TRAVEL POCKETFUL OF SUNSHINE A paradise awaits on the island of Ishigaki BY TREVOR CAMPBELL W ith summer fast approaching, your mind may already be on spending long, lazy days on the beach. Tokyoites have a few local options to choose from, but if your heart’s set on going further afield–maybe Singapore, Thailand or Taiwan–remember that you don’t have to exchange your yen for a taste of tropical paradise. Fly only a few hours south of Tokyo and you can find yourself in one of Japan’s hidden wonders: the Okinawan island of Ishigaki. For those unfamiliar, Okinawa Prefecture is the southernmost point of Japan. There 24 are three main archipelagos: the Okinawan Islands, the Miyako Islands and, lastly, the Yaeyama Islands, the southernmost chain and where Ishigaki is located. Being the furthest afield from mainland Japan, the remote Yaeyama Islands feel a world away from northern hotspots like Naha and Okinawa City. Leaving New Ishigaki Airport—a 3-hour flight from Tokyo and a mere 40 minutes from Taiwan—you’ll be struck by how close to nature you are, a feeling that will stay with you throughout your time on the island. No matter where you go, you’re never more than a short trip from lush wildlife or turquoise seas. Several bus routes help users traverse the island on the cheap. If you plan on staying for a while, you may want to pick up a 5-day pass valid on all bus routes for only ¥2,000. While bus routes are limited, if you’re without a driver’s license (or would rather not spring for a rental vehicle) they’re a great way to get around the island. But depending on your route, the last bus comes well before midnight—sometimes at around 6 or 7 p.m.—so make sure to check the schedule of the line you’re planning to take. Once the buses have gone to bed, you’ll need to shell out for a taxi—but these carry a lower flat rate than Tokyo (¥390 per kilometer) and, depending on your distance, are fairly affordable. My drivers were also much more interested in making small talk than are drivers in bigger cities. Whatever mode of transportation you choose, most routes lead to or from Ishigaki City. With a population of less than 50,000, it’s definitely on the small side, but with a good mix of things to do and see. Some favorite options include Vanilla Deli’s deliciously rich burgers and Banana Cafe’s floral cocktails with locally brewed Awamori. If you’re looking for something a little more, er, “international,” American fast food chain A&W makes an appearance. If you eat meat, make sure to try a proper meal of island beef. While wagyu (premium Japanese beef) is famous throughout Japan, particular fans of Ishigaki’s output credit its lower melting point for giving its wagyu its tenderness and superior flavor. While many of these restaurants can be found in Ishigaki City, their offerings don’t come cheap. Nice cuts cost well past the ¥5,000 mark and continue into the stratosphere. If you’re able to foot the bill, its melt-in-your-mouth taste is said to be more than worth it. Much cheaper but still delicious are two of Ishigaki’s major culinary exports: the aforementioned sweet potatoes and dark Okinawan sugar cane. Both of these goodies show up in an endless variety of incarnations: cakes, jams, candies, and the like. It’s all delicious, reasonably priced and, for the most part, immaculately packaged. As a bonus, these souvenirs for the foodie on your list tend to be much cheaper than similarly-styled products elsewhere in Japan. Despite being decidedly less busy than Okinawa Island, Ishigaki still has plenty of places for visitors to stay. Many are concentrated in Ishigaki City, the quasi-urban hub of the island, but a variety of private resorts are strung along the coast. These accommodations are single buildings or village-type estates, catering to a mix of budgets and featuring different amenities—such as the fantastically named Beach Hotel Sunshine’s private seaview onsen. I spent a few days at Fusaki Village Resort, at the south end of Nagura Bay on the Island’s west side. As its name suggests, these accommodations are spread out to form a little town populated with semi-detached and private red-tiled villas, as well as newer apartment-like structures. There’re also a smattering of gift shops, bars and restaurants (featuring primarily Japanese food but with some more “Western” offerings). At the centre of the complex is a large hall serving buffet meals throughout the day, and its town hall-vibe makes breakfast feel more like a little community gathering than a private mealtime. Menus include a good selection of foods (with fresh fruit and vegetarian options), as well as the requisite Okinawan speciality: beniimo, or purple sweet potato. Many hotels along the coast offer bicycle rentals at reasonable prices (at Fusaki they come at ¥1080/day), which allow you to explore the local environs while getting some exercise. Things can get pretty hilly heading inland, but even while sticking to the coastline you can tick plenty of great spots off your list: Tojinbaka, a Chinese-style tomb, and its nearby sugar cane shop; Nei Museum of Art, a small gallery with brightly-coloured island scenes hand-painted on silk; and Fuzaki Kannon Do Shrine, dedicated to the Shinto goddess of mercy. From Fusaki Resort, I was also a short pedal away from Miru Miru Hompo, a recently expanded gelato shop and restaurant that offers sweet ice creams and milk jams, as well as basic lunch options like taco rice and beef bowls for around ¥500 each. Enjoy your snack on their patio for a great view of the coast The best of Ishigaki is in the wild. While it’s possible to visit some of these spots by bus, your best bet is to rent a car. If you can navigate Japanese car rental websites (thanks, Google Translate!), you can easily find a 4-seat vehicle 25 with gas for the day for less than ¥4,000. Otherwise, the English-friendly rental sites tend to charge a couple thousand more. Zipping along the winding, picturesque roads of Ishigaki is a lot of fun, and in a single day you can see many of the sites that have made the island famous. High on your list should be Kabira Bay, a stunning beach inlet with scads of glass-bottom boats that bring you only inches from clown fish and blowfish in thick masses of coral. Priced at roughly ¥1,000, a typical tour lasts about 30 minutes and comes narrated in Japanese or English, if you’re lucky enough to have a bilingual driver. You’ll also get a free ticket to try Blue Seal ice cream, a famous Okinawan treat originally developed for American G.I.’s stationed in Okinawa Prefecture. For a prime vantage point of the island, you’ll want to head up—but not too far. The highest mountain in Okinawa Prefecture is Mt. Omoto, but you’ll get the best view of Ishigaki from the slightly-shorter Mt. Nosoko. It’s a steep and off-road climb that will have you battling through dangling branches and your fair share of mud on rainy days, but it’s absolutely worth it. The views of the island are unparalleled and offer a whole new perspective of the island. On the northeast corner of the island, Uganzaki Cape demands a visit not only for its lighthouse, but the breathtaking natural rock 26 outcropping that extends beyond it. Those without a fear of heights should head out to the end of the peninsula, where they’ll find a tiny shrine and, after scaling the rock face beyond it, a breathtaking view of the coast. It’s stunning in any weather and one of the most memorable sights on the island. While it might be tempting to give yourself a strict schedule to make sure you can fit everything in, make sure you leave time to improvise. On my visit, a friendly couple who had recently moved from the mainland recommended a hidden field with wild horses at play. Even though we weren’t able to track it down, we did find a hidden beach complete with shipwreck. Ishigaki has more than enough on offer to keep you entertained for your whole vacation. But since you’re in the Yaeyama Islands, why not visit some of the neighbours? Nearby Taketomi Island is only 15 minutes by ferry (¥580 each way) and is a true time capsule of old homes (some of which are partly constructed using pieces of coral), sandy laneway s, and wagons pulled by water buffalo. A free shuttle from its tiny ferr y terminal connec ts you with cheap rental bikes that make exploring the island a breeze. You can see and do it all in an afternoon, including a lunch of Taketomi’s famous Yaeyama soba, some mountainous milk and brown sugar kakigori and exclusive petting privileges of the island’s many stray cats. It takes longer and costs a bit more, but from Ishigaki you also have the option of heading to Iriomote Island: the second-largest island in all of Okinawa Prefecture and an ideal spot for kayaking, climbing waterfalls and exploring mangroves. So the next time you’re looking to get a world away, don’t go too far. Ishigaki Island offers a culture that is distinctly Japanese but, like so many spots in Japan, uniquely distinct. Opening May 2017!! STARTING A BUSINESS IN TOKYO? AL SERVICL E FREE S Tokyo One-Stop Business Establishment Center Seminar for Foreign Nationals! For those interested in starting a business in Japan, this seminar will introduce the attractiveness of business in Tokyo and the support the Tokyo Metropolitan Government can provide. Tokyo Governor Yuriko Koike will also attend. MAY 18, 2017 3PM—5:10PM | DOORS OPEN 2:30PM Location: Ark Hills Cafe Next to the ARK Mori Building, 1-3-40 Roppongi, Minato-ku Oakwood Apartments Azabudai Studios & One Bedrooms with study Brand New Fully Serviced Apartments 1 min. walk to Tokyo Tower and Shiba Park 5 min. walk to the Tokyo American Club 10 min. walk to Kamiyacho St. (Hibiya)/Akabanebashi St. (Oedo) 1 Stop (15 min. walk) away from Roppongi and Azabujyuban 2:30 3:00 3:10 4:10 5:10 PM OPENING AND REGISTRATION PM REMARKS BY TOKYO GOVERNOR YURIKO KOIKE PM PM PM ENTREPENEUR STORIES, 3 PEOPLE X 20 MINUTES MEETINGS WITH EXPERIENCED ENTREPENEURS, TOKYO ONE STOP CENTER CONSULTATIONS CONCLUSION *Attendees can choose between either the meetings with experienced entrepeneurs or consultations with Tokyo One Stop Center staff at the time of registration. HOW TO APPLY Register online. Tokyo One-Stop Business Establishment Center Email: [email protected] www.tosbec.com/seminar0518/english 27 TRAVEL BRIDGE TO NAGASAKI A melting pot of East meets West BY ELLIS KIM T he city of Nagasaki, meaning “long cape,” derives its name from the headland that juts out into the sea. It was Nagasaki’s proximity to the sea that made the city an important port center throughout the history of Japan. During the 1550s, many Portuguese ships began to arrive in Nagasaki along with missionaries looking to spread Christianity to Japan. But, in the late 1590s, many Japanese leaders feared being conquered by Western nations and ousted the missionaries. There were arrests and killings, and many churches were destroyed. Eventually, Japan isolated itself from the rest of the world. No one from Japan was allowed to leave the country and international trade was restricted to a single port, in Nagasaki. Consequently, Nagasaki became the bridge between Japan and the West for a little over two centuries. It’s not surprising, then, that the influences of the Portuguese and the Dutch still remain in Nagasaki. Nestled between the slightly shabby-looking Japanese houses, there may be a church. Or turn any corner, especially near an attraction, and there will be at least two or three castella shops. Castella is a specialty of Nagasaki and originates from the Portuguese sponge cake known as Pão de Castela, which means “bread from Castile.” Besides churches and sponge cakes, there are two attractions that are prime examples of the long-lasting Western influence on Nagasaki. The first is Glover Garden, a park dedicated to Thomas Blake Glover. Glover was a Scottish merchant who made great strides in business and also aided Japan’s industrialization. Mitsubishi Corporation of Japan and Kirin Brewery Company 28 Clockwise from top: Huis Ten Bosch entrance, Huis Ten Bosch street, Megane Bridge, Glover Garden actually come from business deals he made. One of the park’s key features is the home he built in Nagasaki; it is the first Western-styled building in Japan. The moment you step past the Glover Garden sign, surrounded by green leaves, the tall shrubs act like walls, making you forget about the outside world and enveloping you in a secret garden-like space. On a warm day, the sun happily shines down on the flowers that dance along with the soft breeze. The first stop on the path will be the large koi pond. The house acts as a museum and explains what Nagasaki was like back then. The balcony on the second floor is a great place to truly take in the view of the pond and the cityscape. The path through the park is a delight with all the different kinds of flora along the way, and there are quite a few places to sit and soak in your surroundings. The second attraction is Huis Ten Bosch, which is Dutch for “House in the Woods.” Just like Glover Garden, the theme park transports you to a new place—in this case, a new country. The park is modeled like a Dutch town that you can explore by visiting its variety of restaurants, bakeries, souvenir shops and attractions. The best part of the park is really the moment you enter: fields of bright pink, yellow and red tulips welcome you. The breathtaking view is heightened by the windmills spinning amongst them. There is also a castle further within the park with even more flowers you can enjoy. In addition to Glover Garden and Huis Ten Bosch, exploring other parts of the city will give you a more complete idea of Nagasaki. The Megane Bridge area is a good representation of Nagasaki’s architecture and ambience. Nagasaki offers an incredible and unique history which certainly makes it worth a visit. SPONSORED SAVORING TASTE IN FINE JAPANESE SAKE J apanese sake, or nihonshu, has become a global success, and it is even present in supermarkets abroad. Yet there is much lost in translation, with most people having to gamble on whether to serve a given sake hot or cold, never mind navigating the range of seasonal washoki tableware of cups and jugs that accompany the drinking culture. But in the same way that the enjoyment of wine is about navigating regional vineyards and finding out which varieties match an occasion or meal, so too is the world of nihonshu. Perhaps one of the most important characteristics of nihonshu is that, in contrast to red or white wine, it is traditionally almost always drunk fresh within a year of bottling, even as vintage nihonshu is on the rise. That element of immediacy is key, and there are few pleasures as great in the sake world as visiting a region and sampling the freshest local sake, and better yet to actually visit a brewery. You don’t have to go far either, with many brewers within easy reach of the Tokyo metropolis. One of the most prestigious is the Iinuma Honke Brewery, which has been at the forefront of the sake world for over 300 years. Their signature Kinoene brand is a culmination not just of their own history and the brewers who have been making nihonshu since antiquity, but also of the surrounding fields and farms where much of the fine grain rice used in their wine’s production is cultivated. A brewery tour takes you through Meiji Era traditional brewing methods to the high tech present, and you can even participate in the brewing process. A tasting is on offer for those wanting to learn the quality of junmai-shu, a pure rice sake, and for the connoisseur daiginjo sake, made from highly refined rice, is a pleasure to savor. You will leave the tour ready to navigate your own way and from there it is up to you where you take your tastes. With many in Japan finding fruity nihonshu a perfect match for Mediterranean cuisine, and the bolder varieties a hit with meat dishes, there is a whole new emerging gastronomic movement that you can play your part in. Reservation: [email protected] www.iinumahonke.co.jp 29 SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION TRAVEL RUN WITH IT Spring is the time for new plans and projects, and what better way to spend that new zest for life on getting out and traveling? A journey can take you as far as your backyard or as near as across the country—or world. Get started with our travel special and remember: as famous author Henry Miller said, “One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.” SPECIAL OFFERS • Mention Metropolis at the front desk and receive free admission to Hakuba Shionomachi Onsen. 24196-24, Kamishiro Hakuba-mura, Kita Azumi-gun, Nagano-ken 0261-75-4000 [email protected] http://gvhakuba.com/ GREEN VALLEY HAKUBA Internationally renowned as a snow sports destination, Hakuba is a premier destination for those who want to experience Japan’s famous powder snow. But less known is the breathtaking beauty of the Japanese Alps in the summer Nagano season. Picture this: a holiday cottage, surrounded by beautiful summer weather among the idyllic natural surroundings of Hakuba, where you can enjoy an abundance of activities such as rafting, hot air ballooning, and even paragliding. Green Valley Hakuba can make this a reality, with private cottages available to rent, allowing you to relax until your heart’s content this summer. Green Valley has numerous cottage-type options and can even accommodate parties as large as twenty. Each cottage has a BBQ space (rental equipment available), perfect for backyard gatherings with friends. Come and enjoy the beautiful natural surrounding of Hakuba, and make this a summer to remember! PRICES • Admission: ¥500; 1 ticket (6 min), ¥1,980 (over 15 years old ); 3 tickets, ¥5,200; 5 tickets, ¥7,800; 8 tickets, ¥10,500 • 1 child ticket (6 min), ¥1,480 (children must be in at least elementary school and over 118cm tall) • Group Race package (over 15 years old, five or more people): Mini Grand Prix ¥4,200 per person; Sprint Grand Prix ¥5,500 per person SPECIAL OFFER • Mention Metropolis and get free admission! 2F Harbor Circuit, Chiba Sports Plaza, 13-26 Dezuminato, Chuo-ku, Chiba 043-441-3243 Open Mon-Fri, 2-11:30pm, Sat & hols 10am-11:30pm, Sun 10am-9:30pm Chiba or Chiba-Minato [email protected] www.harbor-circuit.com 30 HARBOR CIRCUIT No driver's license? No problem. You can still experience the thrill of the road at Harbor Circuit in Chiba, where you can battle it out in go-karts with friends and family! First time in a go-kart? There’s no need to worry as full safety guidelines Chiba are explained before each heat. Group Races let you burn some rubber while competing in groups of five or more. There’s also the simpler Mini GP option, and even a final 35-lap race—with five different plans to choose from. And if you’re looking to hone your skills, prove yourself against a real-time ranking system. No matter how crowded it gets, everyone is guaranteed four rides; and afterward, you can still be part of the race-day atmosphere by relaxing around the circuit with snacks. Once you’ve tried it, you’ll be screaming for more! MORE SPECIALS ONLINE → SPECIAL OFFERS • Go for Free! Check the Experience+ website for details. TABICA Experience+ is a place for families, friends and travelers to find unique experiences in Japan. Whether it’s a day trip to a new region or a closer look at a cultural hotspot nearby, each activity is made to enhance your knowledge of life in Japan with a local expert as your guide. Join Experience+ this summer for a hike to a hilltop temple and meditation by the morning sun, or learn to cook your favorite Japanese dishes with a restaurant chef by your side. You can barbecue a farm-to-table feast with your friends, learn a traditional Japanese craft or check the hidden spots of a city you may have never seen before. With new experiences to try every season, you’ll always find something unforgettably unique to do in Japan. Want to know more? Contact Experience+ for details on how to get your experience for FREE. Nagatacho Nagatacho GRID, 2-5-3 Hirakawacho, Chiyoda-ku 03-6869-0747 Mon-Fri 9am-6pm Nagatacho [email protected] https://exp.wow-j.com/ JAPAN RURAL TOURS TOUR • The Rural Japan Tour • Black Mountain Three Waterfalls Tour • North Sickle Lake Tour • Paragliding Nagatoro Temple And Rafting Tour • Mountains and the ancient Korean Temple and Shrine Tour 090 9829 3058 japanruraltours [email protected] japanruraltours.com JAPAN RURAL TOURS Picture yourself seated on top of a thickly-forested mountain, looking from high above onto the tiny thatched houses of the villages below, and catching sight of people flying like birds, down to the little thatched cottages and catching the Saitama wind to drift them up to the top of the mountains again. Picture yourself relaxing in the grounds of ancient temples and shrines. Enjoying the sounds of the gurgling streams, the gush of the waterfalls. Picture yourself just sitting back, relaxing, taking a deep breath and seeing how wonderful Japan is for ¥8,000 a day. This is the Japan you will always have in your heart. It will stay with you forever. It will be a lifelong experience you will never forget. Only 46 minutes from Ikebukuro on the Tobu Tojo Line, pickup from Sakado Station available every day. SPECIAL OFFERS • Original gifts for Metropolis readers (One per person) Seaside Mall 4F., Decks Tokyo Beach, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku. 03-3599-5191 11am-9pm Odaiba Kaihinkouen [email protected]/ www.trickart.info TRICK ART MUSEUM Come and revel in the excitement of old-timey Japan at the Tokyo Trick Art Museum! Just like jumping into a time machine, this museum transports you straight back to the time of samurais and ninjas with vivid recreations Odaiba Kaihinkouen of scenes from the Edo Period. 3D artworks place you right into the scene with clever trick art that plays with your perception of space. Exciting scenes such as a ninja house and depictions of traditional Japanese festivals are highlights. Its the perfect place for kids and adults alike, just don’t forget your camera, though, because the Tokyo Trick Art Museum is an experience you won’t want to forget! ¥1,000 adult/¥600 child. 31 SPONSORED EXECUTIVE FIGHT NIGHT VII "LUCKY 7" Tokyo’s executives raise their fists for an important cause BY EILEEN IWAMOTO S ince 2012, Executive Fight Night has been teaching Tokyo and the hospital.” a whole new meaning of the phrase “fight for a cause.” This On April 15, the children central to the event’s cause and the May, the celebrated event returns to the Grand Hyatt Tokyo, executives participating met face-to-face in a moving event dubbed bringing its upscale, Vegas-themed energy. Dubbed “Lucky 7,” “Fighters Meet Fighters.” For the fighters in the ring, it was important the evening features 16 Tokyo executives squaring off against one to meet the fighters outside the ring, so that they could personally another, as a way to test themselves, but more importantly, to raise connect with the children and families for whom they are making a money for a great cause and organization. difference. EFN is the brainchild of Eddie Nixon, Dave Thomas and Nathan “It was an opportunity to establish a connection and a relationSchmid. Originally conceived as a way to give Tokyo’s executives ship with them and to offer each other a little more courage, though some much-needed stress relief, as well as to raise money for a their fights are so much more significant because it is truly a matter good cause, the event quickly ballooned in popularity and has raised of either life and death,” said Valentino Sebic, Head of Banking & hundreds of thousands of dollars for different charities. Financial Services at Apex K.K., who will be in the ring at EFN 7. “We started Executive Fight Night to provide stressed-out Tokyo “We are so incredibly fortunate to even be in a position to contribexecutives an avenue to get fit and test themselves—and to provide ute to this charity, because many of the children we are helping will great entertainment,” explained Thomas. “But we also wanted to give never live to be old enough for that same privilege ... How ironic is it back to the community and tap into the generous spirit of Tokyoites, then that, despite their short lives and immeasurable suffering, they so the money that’s been raised gives us enormous satisfaction.” did in fact give something to us, too. They gave us a priceless, reWhile past EFNs have supported charities such as Run for the Cure, calibrated perspective on how fortunate we are, and how we can also which aims to raise breast canface life with more courage like cer awareness, and Refugees these little warriors.” International Japan, an NPO For the adult fighters, it was that assists refugees displaced the missing piece on their road by war and conflict around the to EFN, and for the kid fighters, world, the money raised since they see strong and dedicated 2014 has gone to Shine On! strangers supporting their jourKids. Specifically, proceeds go ney. The kids and their parents to Shine On! Kids’ Facility Dog were then able to spar with the Program, which brings therapy the fighters and participate in dogs into children's cancer other fun activities before they wards. and their families wished them “A specially trained dog is good luck. paired with a dedicated nurse It should be noted, however, and handler, who together that those who might picture form a medical team that helps some executives playing dressto improve treatment outcomes up and half-heartedly shadow John Trollope takes his licks at the "Fighters Meet Fighters" event held on April 15th. and children’s approach to boxing each other couldn’t be medical treatment and therafurther from the truth. Fighters py,” explained Joy Fajardo, Event Director for EFN, who spent 3 years have to try out, and only those in top physical shape make the final cut as Marketing Manager at SOK. (Fun fact about Fajardo: she fought in, of 16. They then go on to a rigorous 12-week training camp at Tokyo’s and won, the very first EFN bout in 2012.) “The team has an impact Club 360, run by professional coaches, including former pro fighters not only on the child and their family, but also on the medical team Jan Kaszuba and Brian McGrath. 32 MEET THE FIGHTERS Maiko Itami, Japan AGE: 42 WEIGHT: 46kg HEIGHT: 155cm REACH: 150cm Marketing Director , EF Education First John Trollope, USA / Philippines AGE: 40 WEIGHT: 104.2kg HEIGHT: 195cm REACH: 199.5cm Country Project Manager, IKEA “ It is cer tainly not for the fainth e a r t e d ,” N i x o n said. “You hit and get hit hard. Blood is spilled. You train ver y early in the morning or late into the night while juggling your job, f amil y and ot her commitments.” The Toko Komatsu (top) and Dollar Abshir Omar (above) hone 16 fighters must at- their skills at intense training ssessions at Club 360. tend a minimum of 24 training sessions. “I'm a lifelong competitive athlete and so, although I'm used to regularly training hard, being uncomfortable, being injured and testing myself, training for boxing is a whole other level,” said Sebic. “I quickly realized nothing can prepare you for the mental and physical onslaught that fighting requires … it's literally all of your senses and all of your faculties required 100 percent the time … EFN is the real deal, and you either sink or swim.” “Add our full-time professional and other family and life-related commitments, training before or after a hard day at work, and I think you have a very special and worthy kind of fighter in an EFN competitor. The unexpected for me was the realization of how there is always two battles going on when you fight; one is the battle with yourself, and the other battle is with your opponent.” If you’d like to get involved with such an outstanding cause, without subjecting yourself to 12 weeks of rigorous training and a good pummeling, there are multiple options available to you. Those wishing to attend can purchase tickets at varying levels. Businesses and private groups can purchase ringside tables that come with sponsorship opportunities, while single tickets are available for individuals. For those unable to attend, you can “pledge a fighter” or purchase tickets to be entered in the night’s raffle. Top prize comes from sponsor BrewDog, and entitles the winner to a year of free beer! Shigenobu Hashimoto, Japan AGE: 44 WEIGHT:95 kg HEIGHT: 172cm REACH: 168 cm Representative Partner, Hashland LLC Katsuaki Hamasaki, Japan AGE: 29 WEIGHT: 81.3kg HEIGHT: 184cm REACH: 182cm Company: TANK David Villagomez, Ecuador AGE: 39 WEIGHT: 74kg HEIGHT: 177cm Deputy Chief of Mission & Consul, Embassy of Ecuador in Japan Ichiro Hirooka, Japan AGE: 49 WEIGHT: 67kg HEIGHT: 174cm REACH: 171.5cm Director, Mitsubishi UFJ Toko Komatsu, Japan / USA AGE: 36 WEIGHT: 49kg HEIGHT: 159.5cm REACH: 153cm Customer Service, Interactive Brokers Blaise Deal, USA AGE: 27 WEIGHT: 99.6kg HEIGHT: 185cm REACH: 192cm Trader, Evolution Japan Asset Management Jun Takahori, Japan AGE: 32 WEIGHT: 69kg HEIGHT: 175cm REACH: 171cm VP, Foreign security firm Valentino Maximus Sebic, Canada AGE: 51 WEIGHT: 89.7kg HEIGHT: 179cm REACH: 187.5cm Head of Banking & Financial Services, Apex KK Toshi Suzuki, Japan AGE: 34 WEIGHT: 75kg HEIGHT: 171cm British Embassy Tokyo Dollar Abshir Omar, Sweden / Somalia AGE: 32 WEIGHT: 93kg HEIGHT: 183cm REACH: 187.5cm Associate Consultant, Robert Walters Andrea Ferrero, Italian Patrick McGonagle, Germany / Ireland AGE: 30 WEIGHT: 100.2kg HEIGHT: 185cm REACH: 182 cm CEO,IG Securities Chad Lafferty, USA AGE: 38 WEIGHT: 64kg HEIGHT: 170cm REACH: 170cm Senior manager, Wahl & Case WEIGHT: 85.5 kg REACH: 182cm Head Chef, Shangrila Hotel Aaron Glenn McCain, USA / Belize AGE: 37 WEIGHT: 73kg HEIGHT: 165cm REACH: 167cm Asscociate Director, Cushman & Wakefield 33 34 SPONSORED NOW OPEN PIA HAIR SALON West Coast chillin’ in the heart of Tokyo A n established brand since 1991 with multiple locations in California and Guam, Pia Hair Salon opened its new location in Shibuya in April. The people behind Pia Salon have spent decades outside, and wanted to recreate comfortable spaces they found abroad in Japan. Pia’s concept is “Tools to connect with people,” and the salon aims to provide a place where people from all over the world can gather to meet others, relax, and have a good time. The staff welcome guests to come grab a coffee and chill, even if they aren’t clients. The idea behind Pia Salon is to be a comfortable hang-out location where people can meet up with friends or make conversation with the friendly stylists. With its easygoing, bilingual staff and selection of English magazines and movies on three TVs, it is ideal for Japanese visitors and foreigners looking for a casual, relaxed place. The salon is located on a rare quiet street in Shibuya, not far from the bustle of the station. The interior of the salon is wide and spacious, finished in warm wood, with a row of counter seats lining a wall of windows. In this the decor is reminiscent of a café setup, and the resemblance extends further, with Pia Hair Salon offering USB charging ports and free wi-fi. In addition, free spaces around the walls are for clients to put their own mark on the space with chalk drawings and paintings. The stylists emphasize not rushing their clients, taking the time to give them the exact type of haircut or style they want. Manager and stylist Koichi Nihei jokes that he likes it when customers fall asleep during the session, because it shows they are very comfortable. When a Metropolis writer went to Pia Hair Salon recently after its opening, she was served cups of hot coffee and given a lengthy consultation on getting highlights with the manager of the salon. During the lengthy styling session, it was evident the stylist was taking the most care in mixing and selecting the best colors and arranging the foils to plan the best possible look, and the writer emerged with completely reimagined, richly streaked new hair. Pia Hair Salon is especially strong in hair coloring, and notes that one of its most popular styles is the French coloring method “Balayage color,” a freehand coloring technique which mimics an ombre effect with vivid colors. In addition, Pia Hair Salon offers haircuts and full color, perms and Japanese straightening options for both men and women. The laid-back vibe of Pia Hair Salon makes it stand out among the hundreds of beauty salons in Tokyo. Yushin Bldg. 1F, 3-27-11 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku. Shibuya. 03-3409-1225. Mon–Sat 11am–8pm, Sun 11am–6pm. Closed Tues. piahairsalon.tokyo Nails | Facials | Special Eyelash Extensions | Spray Tanning | Waxing | Massage Shellac Pedicure for ¥5,600 Valid until the end of May; Conditions apply Elana Jade NS Azabu Juban Building 4F 3-6-2 Azabu Juban, Minato-ku Nearest Station: Azabujuban Tel: 03-6453-9319 [email protected] www.elanajade.com Restaurant Dalian Edoya wine & Restaurant McDonalds Amanoya Tully’s 35 COMMUNITY GIVE AND TAKE: CORPORATIONS AND CHARITIES Pairing for mutual benefit BY LOUISE GEORGE KITTAKA I n Japan, the concept of donating to charity brings to mind a line of young adults standing outside a station as they jangle fundraising boxes and greet commuters with choruses of “Yoroshiku onegaishimasu!” On the flipside, support for charities by businesses, often called “corporate social responsibility” or CSR for short, is still a relatively new concept in Japan. Bigger firms do have budgets for these activities, but tend to target well-established charities. However, things are changing. The 2011 Tohoku earthquake and tsunami was a defining moment in terms of kick-starting a myriad of volunteer organizations. Foreign nationals have often been at the fore, encouraging Japanese friends and colleagues to jump in wherever they see a need. We talked to several people involved in both sides of the CSR equation about the place corporate funding plays in their activities and got the lowdown on the current state of CSR in Japan, as well as future trends. American Michael Anop founded his Tokyobased NPO, Playground of Hope (PoH), in the aftermath of the 2011 Tohoku disaster. After realizing that displaced children had nowhere to let off steam, he came up with the idea of erecting play structures, and the organization has since built over 40 playgrounds in Iwate, Miyagi and Fukushima prefectures. They have now expanded their activities to include children's homes and public park projects. Anop explains that due to the high costs involved with buying and installing the equipment, PoH rely wholly on corporate sponsors. Firms are offered the option of sending employees to help install the playgrounds. “Our success has been our ability to combine community service with an HR team-building exercise. It's a win-win for everyone involved,” he says. Of the more than 70 projects completed so far, a mere three were funded by Japanese firms. 36 Anop notes that CSR activities are not yet as developed in Japan as in the USA, for example, and so Japanese firms don’t have such large budgets. “That's not to say that Japanese companies aren't generous. Indeed, they give millions of dollars away to charity, but they prefer to give it to the big players among NPOs.” ARK (Animal Refuge Kansai) has developed a reputation as one of Japan’s leading NPOs and animal advocacy groups since it was started by British expat Elizabeth Oliver in 1990. Dedicated to rescuing, rehabilitating and rehoming animals, the organization is based in Kansai but also operates a Tokyo office, led by Julie Okamoto. As with PofH, ARK’s corporate sponsors are also mainly multinationals. These firms support ARK’s activities in a variety of innovative ways. “For example, one allows charities to register and asks employees to donate money they have saved by choosing cheaper accommodation on Left page, from top: Animal Rescue Kansasi, HOPE's Conrad to Hilton Walk of Hope, relief packages for Tohoku from Grand Hyatt, this page: Nagoya Gala (photo: Keitaro Nishizaki), Kids Earth Fund bus and Christmas fundraiser, Playground of Hope at work (photo: Shannon Jih) business trips, etc. Another, also an employee initiative, invites us to participate in events on their calendar, giving us the opportunity to get our message out and raise donations,” explains Okamoto. She cites one positive trend from recent years. “We have seen a sharp increase in both educational organizations and corporations sending us volunteers.” Okamoto is hopeful that experiencing and knowing the value of volunteering while young will encourage the next generation to instigate and support CSR projects once they join the workforce. Under the motto of “Helping the neglected poor become self-reliant” the HOPE International Development Agency has been assisting families in developing nations for over 40 years. The Japan branch, HOPE-JP, was established in 2001 and focuses on raising awareness and funds in Japan to support overseas projects, as well as domestic ones in the Tohoku region. According to HOPE-JP’s representative Elena Omura, successful corporate partnerships depend very much on individuals. “While we have relationships with companies, the catalyst in starting the relationship, in most cases, began with an individual. We often speak with the CSR and/or marketing divisions of companies, but we have found that what is key to a lasting and meaningful relationship is people, not departments.” Joy Fajardo has experienced both sides of the CSR story, through her involvement with Shine On! Kids, an NPO supporting children with cancer, and now in her role as Creative Services Director at the Custom Media agency. “Collaboratively, both parties strengthen the values they represent to stakeholders and the public.” “In general, in Japan, the concept of charity is different and younger than in the West, so the (receiving) foundation has to spend a lot of time educating about how to give and the difference giving makes,” Fajardo says. She adds that she finds it encouraging that more diversity is emerging in this area. With so many worthy causes out there, how do firms decide which ones to support? Emilie Achilles from the Grand Hyatt’s marketing communications team acknowledges that it isn’t an easy task. One of the hotel’s major events is a multi-faceted annual Christmas fundraiser, with the general theme of holiday seasonal magic seen as a natural choice for activities that support children. To this end, the Hyatt has partnered with Kids Earth Fund, a global NPO working to promote peace and environmental conservation through the medium of children’s art. The Tokyo branch runs a community center in Watari-gun, Miyagiken where they work with children affected by the Tohoku disaster. One unique component of the Christmas fundraiser is the sale of gifts made from cork. “These were made by Ri Kikou, a sheltered workshop for people with learning disabilities. We donate corks from wine used in the hotel and then buy back the finished items as an outreach program,” Achilles explains. Steve Dewire, the General Manager of the Grand Hyatt Tokyo, believes that CSR activities will become increasingly important in Japan in the future. “Throughout the journey of life, there are many points that we can assist and show care to others and I believe that through both company and personal commitments, CSR must and will continue to grow in Japan.” If you’d like information on how to get involved with any of the organizations listed above, please refer to the contact information below: Playground of Hope: [email protected]; Animal Rescue Kansai: [email protected]; HOPE International Development Agency: www.hope.or.jp; Shine On! Kids: sokids.org/; Kids Earth Fund: http://www.kidsearthfund.jp/en 37 COMMUNITY RAISING A CHILD WITH DISABILITIES And the added complications of living abroad BY SUZANNE KAMATA her English were evident. She has many English-speaking relatives and often visits the United States. The teachers, however, didn’t recognize the need until I told them how I felt. Sara Yoshi hara, who has a daughter with au tism, adds: “Understand that teachers and social workers who are not specialized in helping children with disabilities have quite a low baseline understanding of what support and accommodation is possible and what is necessary. Parents need to be ready to advocate strongly for their child and, if at all possible, identify and enlist the support of a qualified professional.” G iving birth to and raising a child in a foreign country can be daunting. But when that child has a disability, the challenges increase dramatically. For me, it all began when my twins were born fourteen weeks premature in a hospital in Tokushima. Although my son emerged from the NICU (Neonatal Intensive Care Unit) after three months without any noticeable problems, we eventually learned our daughter was deaf and had cerebral palsy. Because my Japanese husband had a steady job with good insurance coverage as a high school teacher, we didn’t even consider moving to the United States, my native country. However, living far from my family meant that I had little back-up support, and dealing with the endless bureaucracy in Japanese has been a challenge. Nevertheless, we managed to raise our daughter to adulthood— she will turn eighteen this month. She is, for the most part, a healthy and happy young woman, with friends, hobbies and dreams for the future. It hasn’t been easy, but here are some of the things that other mothers of children with disabilities and I have learned. 38 TRUST YOUR INSTINCTS Although parents of children with special needs will get plenty of advice from doctors, teachers, therapists and other professionals, no one knows their child better than his/ her parents. Former expat Robbie Walker, mother of a daughter with unilateral hearing loss and related learning disabilities, writes: “I received many different diagnoses and opinions over the years about what was the ‘problem’ with my daughter. Even before I received the technical confirming results of the final diagnosis, I knew it was correct from everything I knew and had observed in my daughter. Those who know a child best, know what is best.” ASK FOR WHAT YOU NEED The squeaky wheel gets the grease. When my daughter’s teachers declared that she would not be getting English lessons at school because she wasn’t on the academic track, and therefore didn’t need to learn English for college entrance exams, I still insisted that they work English into her education. To me, the reasons for teaching FIND A COMMUNITY Motherhood can be overwhelming in Japan. Not only are we expected to get up at 5 a.m. to make anime characters out of food for our children’s bentos, but we are also the ones who supposedly determine our children’s success (or failure) in life. As Laurel Kamada writes, “My child had some undiagnosed problems, and it was very hard for our family. Japan just tends to ignore the problem and blame the gaijin mother for everything. I have felt guilty of being a poor mother as I could not teach kokugo (native language use) at home very well and my son suffered for it all of the way through school.” To ease some of the pressure and loneliness, connect with other foreign mothers through organizations such as the Association of Foreign Wives of Japanese or online chat groups. Ask about home helpers and day care services for children with special needs at your local town office. Ask your friends for assistance. And don’t forget to take care of yourself—do yoga, or go for a walk. For a list of recommended resources, visit metropolisjapan.com. Get in Shape, Go Home Safe. Special: ing onal train 1st pers n only sessio ¥ Israeli Self Defense System • 100% tailored to your goals and lifestyle • Highly qualified trainers with decades of experience For Metropolis Readers One Class Trial 5,400! • Group classes include Fit 360, Core & Cardio, Boxing, ¥0 Kickboxing and Kids Classes No membership or joining fees If you sign up on your class trial day Enrollment Fee ¥10,800 ¥0 MagaGYM Roppongi Tokyo, Minato-ku, Roppongi 3-14-7, Arrow Building 4F MagaGYM Akasaka Just 3 min walk from Roppongi Hills Large modern facility with spacious studio & 5-star resistance zone NEW [email protected] Tel: 03-6434-9667 Tokyo, Minato-ku, Akasaka 3-7-13 Akasaka HM Bldg. B1 Address: B1 CMA3 Bldg, 3-1-35 Moto Azabu, Minato-ku • Nearest stn: 03-6432-9794 [email protected] www.magagym.com/en Roppongi. Hours: Open Mon-Fri 6:30am-9:30pm Sat-Sun 7am - 6pm • Tel: 03-6434-9667 www.watanabe-hair.com Call 03-6447-7414 The Aki Watanabe salon’s new branch in Hiroo specializes in tailored cutting. The salon also feature internationally renowned nail artist Mayumi, who has over 20 years of experience in nail design. Manicures start at ¥4,500 and pedicures at ¥8,000. Hiroo Harajuku 5-17-4-2F Hiroo, Shibuya-ku. 3-25-6-B1, Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. Open 11am–9pm (Mon, Wed-Fri), Open 11am-9pm(Tue-Fri), 10am–9pm (Sat) & 10am–7pm (Sun & hols). 10am-9pm (Sat), 10am-8pm(Sun & Hol) Closed Tue & 3rd Mon of every Month. Closed Tuesdays and the 3rd Monday of the month. Tel: 03-6447-7414 Tel: 03-3405-1188 39 COMMUNITY doctors and patients into English, Japanese or Chinese. Artificial intelligence will choose appropriate responses from the roughly one million examples of travel-related conversations along with 200,000 medical examples stored on a hospital server connected to the device. URBAN PARK DAY CARE CENTERS OPEN MAY NEWS KNIGHTS IN WHITE LYCRA ANNUAL RIDE AND EVENTS Founded after the 2011 Triple Disaster, the Knights in White Lycra aim to raise funds to help support the people of Tohoku through an annual 500 km ride. Supporting Mirai no Mori, an outdoor education non-profit that helps orphaned children, the Knights aim to raise 7 million yen this year. The ride will take place from May 25 through May 28, and while the roster of riders is full, it’s still possible to lend a hand. Join them for a Band Night on May 14th, sponsor a rider, or check out their web page for further events throughout the year. Check out our article on them, too, at metropolisjapan.com! kiwldonations.org KAMOME MARCHE Held the fourth Saturday of each month, the Kamome Marche in Yokohama is a cozy hub of foodly activity. Nearly twenty vendors gather on the second floor walkway of the Bay Quarter Shopping Center near Yokohama Station. Baked goods, seasonal vegetables, and even a Yamanashi vintner are on hand to offer visitors something a little special. Started in 2009 by the NKB Corporation, parent company of Gurunavi, the Kamome Marche aims to offer eaters the chance to meet the growers and producers of the food they put on their tables. May 27. 11am – 5pm. Yokohama Station. East Exit A. www.marche-japon.org/venue/3 WHEN SOMEONE IN THE FAMILY DRINKS TOO MUCH TRANSLATED TO JAPANESE A children’s book that helps children deal with alcoholism in their families, When Someone in the Family Drinks Too Much is now available in Japanese. Machi Taniguchi, a TELL mental health counselor, organized a fundraising campaign to produce the translation. The text discusses the feelings such as guilt, embarrassment and anger that can be caused by living with someone suffering from alcoholism and the other ways it can affect people. It also offers advice on where to turn for help. Originally written by Richard Langsen and illustrated by Nicole Rubel, the book is now available from the TELL Library or for purchase. telljp.com HOSPITALS TEST AI TRANSLATION TECHNOLOGY As Japan prepares for the 2020 Olympic and Paralympic Games, plans for how to best host the 40 million hoped-for visitors in all situations, including medical, are underway. About 20 hospitals nationwide will begin testing an automated translation system this year. A tablet device jointly developed by the University of Tokyo Hospital, the National Institute of Information and Communications Technology and Fujitsu Ltd., translates conversations between Starting this year, restrictions on the location of day care centers have been eased, allowing them to open in urban parks in Tokyo, Yokohama and Fukuoka. Local governments and day care facility operators found the search for new sites to be problematic, as area citizens blocked construction out of concern for noise and traffic. In April 2017, new facilities opened in Arakawa, Setagaya and Shinagawa Wards in Tokyo, as did others in Sendai, Yokohama and Fukuoka. More are expected to open in Shibuya Ward, Tokyo, as well as in Toyonaka, Osaka Prefecture. A total of 19 new centers are hoped for by April 2019 to help the 23,553 children on waitlists as of April 2016. PASSENGERS AND RAILWAY STAFF LEND A HAND IN TOKYO Tokyo-area railway businesses, including JR East, are running a campaign that promotes the idea of mutual cooperation between passengers and railway staff. Started by the JR East group in 2011, the campaign, Koekake, Sapo-to (Need Help? Support for Passengers), expanded to other companies in November 2016. Railway staff and passengers are encouraged to look out for those in need of assistance, whether they are foreign visitors needing directions or passengers in wheelchairs. Posters and in-train video ads aim to spread the news of the campaign and foster the spirit of helpfulness in the name of safety and efficiency. SOUND MIND, SOUND BODY RUN & WALK FUNDRAISER This year, the TELL Runathon has a new name and a new partner: Second Harvest Japan. All proceeds from the fundraiser, a celebration of good mental and physical health, will go to the two organizations. Comprised of 5k and 10k runs and a 5k walk, prizes will be awarded to the fastest runners. The first 600 registrants will receive a Sound Mind, Sound Body Run & Walk T-shirt. Participants can register online or on the day of event starting at 8:30am. Rain or shine, the event will take place along the Tamagawa Running Course and registration will be at Furuichiba Track and Field Stadium. Saturday, May 27 telljp.com For more community news and resources, visit metropolisjapan.com/news/community-news 40 JUNE GETSUMATSU インターナショナルパーティー 入場無料 ･ドリンク¥500~ FRIDAY JUNE 30 7PM-11PM Free Entry Drinks from ¥500 Join us this summer for the Metropolis Getsumatsu party! Held at the newly-opened TRUNK (HOTEL), this stylish, intimate boutique hotel welcomes international and internationally-minded guests—the perfect setting for a summer kick-off. LOCATION: TRUNK (HOTEL) 5-31 Jingu-Mae Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0001 http://trunk-hotel.com 41 RAW VEGAN ZEN LADY 58C For homemade, raw vegan foods that are free of preservatives and are nonGMO, look no further. Raw Vegan ZEN LADY prepares light but satisfying organic, gluten- and corn-free snacks, dishes, and juices that feed and nourish the body and mind. Pasta sauces, sushi, sweets, bento boxes, and more, all 100-percent vegan (no meat, eggs or dairy). ZEN LADY offers a selection of Raw Vegan dishes great for buffets or home use. Some dishes are suitable for events or party buffets for 10 or more people. A 10-percent discount is available to those who bring in this ad. Clear your mind and increase your overall health with clean, fresh and delicious food. If you follow a meat-free diet and love plant-based meals, you should definitely check out http://rvz.tokyo Tom Yoshimura is an internationally-recognized stylist who spent over a decade in New York styling for New York Fashion Week, CNBC, Vanity Fair, WWD, Vivienne Tam, Eileen Fisher’s fashion show and commercial advertisements. His New York salon Hair Design Ampersand, Inc. has been voted the Best Hair Salon in NY by Yelp users, with branches in the trendy East Village and Lower East Side. As the lead stylist at 58c, which is located 5 seconds away from Exit 1 of Shirokanedai Station, Yoshimura is ready to work his magic on Tokyo. The 58c staff will attend personally to each guest, drawing each customer’s personality out to create a unique style. 10% off all services for first-time visitors who read Metropolis. 3-14-4 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-6447-7554. Tue–Sun 11am–8pm. Shirokanedai. [email protected], www.fiftyeight-c.com ICHII CORPORATION AZABU COURT With over 550 affordable, quality-furnished apartments in central Tokyo locations and the Greater Tokyo Area, Ichii Corporation has you covered. Apartments are new and clean, and the contract system is simple, with full English support. Even better, rentals require no key money, guarantors, or agency fees. With a large variety of apartments in and around Tokyo, they are sure to meet your needs. So call today and make your stay in Tokyo perfect! 5F Blue Bell Building, 2-15-9 Nishi-Gotanda, Shinagawa-ku. Gotanda. MonSat, 9am-6pm (hols 9:30am-6pm); closed on Sun. Tel: 03-5437-5233. E-mail: [email protected] japt.co.jp TRUST DENTAL CLINIC 42 Serviced apartments in a quiet residential area of Hiroo. Studios and suites. Four minutes from Hiroo Station. Rates: Daily ¥8,200 ¥28,000/night. Weekly ¥7,050 - ¥23,800/night. Monthly ¥5,700 - ¥19,100/ night. Long-term stays (three months or more) ¥5,130 - ¥17,190/night (tax, utilities included). Azabu Court’s full-service packages include free broadband, an in-house concierge, laundry services, and more. Residents receive daily access to the nearby Fitness Club Hiroo, so you can stay in shape. 4-5-39 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku. Hiroo. Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm; Sat-Sun & hols, 8am-6pm. Tel: 03-3446-8610. E-mail: [email protected] www.azabucourt.com MDSA HAIR REMOVAL SALON If you’re seeking familiar dental care from an Englishspeaking professional, look no further than Dr. Oikawa, an American dental school graduate with 20 years of experience. Dr. Oikawa and his team of overseas-trained dental hygienists provide general dentistry, oral surgery, and more. Consultation-only and second-opinion appointments are welcomed. Just three minutes from Harajuku Station, Trust Dental Clinic offers convenience in addition to quality service. Call in advance to ensure a space. 1-11-1 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. MeijiJingumae or Harajuku. Tel: 03-3402-1501. E-mail: [email protected] www.trustdental.jp/english Intense Pulsed Light Hair Removal Salon, located just two minutes from Azabu-Jūban Station, offers secluded treatment rooms, English-speaking staff, a reservation-only policy, and an atmosphere that caters to both men and women. Remove unwanted hair from your back, upper arms, and V-lines. You’ll be impressed by our efficiency; in fact, if you’re not satisfied, we’ll re-do your treatment for free. Prices start at ¥3,300. More info online. 2F Ishihara Bldg, 3-7-1 Azabu-Juban, Minato-ku. Azabu-Jūban. Mon-Fri 12pm-11:30pm; Sat-Sun & hols 10am-11:30pm. Tel: 03-6435-1276. E-mail: [email protected] mds-a.jp/english BEAUTY BY ALEXANDRE THE JAPAN HELPLINE Alexandre started as a hairstylist and color specialist for blondes and brunettes in Paris 25 years ago. He then moved to New York, and now Tokyo. He also specializes in make-up for special events, such as parties or weddings. Alexandre understands that sometimes people are unable to visit salons for cuts and color, so he is happy to make housecalls. By appointment only at home or at Lizero in Omotesando. Tel: 0903520-6262. www.bba-japan.com Japan’s only 24-hour non-profit nationwide emergency assistance 24hour non-profit worldwide service, providing aroundemergency assistance the-clock telephone service since 1975 advice for the international community. The Japan 0570-000-911 Helpline provides assistance for any situation, from an emergency to simple enquiry. So whether you’re in a crisis situation such as an earthquake or tsunami, or you simply need advice on treating a toothache or finding a last-minute babysitter, The Japan Helpline is ready to assist you no matter where you are. www.jhelp.com (and press “help”). Tel: 0570-000-911. To volunteer or donate, please contact [email protected] Jhelp.com PRIVATE JAPANESE TEACHERS Want to improve your Japanese ability but don't ever seem to have the time? Having a private Japanese teacher will make your life in Japan easier and happier. Without the rigidity of a school schedule, private teachers from Sensei Shokai meet you at your chosen time and location. Personalized lessons mean you can study at your own pace and practice a lot of speaking. Not only will you be improving your Japanese, you'll be gaining an advisor who can give you advice about your life in Japan. Best of all, tuition is very reasonable. So give us your lesson request and our teachers will respond soon. www.senseishokai.com/nihongo TAMACHI/OKACHIMACHI EKIMAE DENTAL CLINIC Tamachi Ekimae Dental Clinic provides excellent US-standard dental services at affordable prices. The clinic is headed by Dr. Brian Watanabe, a graduate of Nihon University and the University of Southern California. With over 33 years of experience, he is licensed in the United States, Japan, China, UAE and Myanmar. Dr. Watanabe welcomes new clients for general dentistry, cosmetic dentistry and dental implants. All international insurance as well as Japanese insurance accepted. Ogawa Bldg. 2F, 5-27-13 Shiba, Minato-ku. Tamachi. Miyama Bldg. 1F,1-12 -1 Higashi Ueno Taito-ku. Okachimachi Tel: 070-1076-1356 (English), 03-3454-8585 (Japanese). Mon-Fri 10:30am-2pm, 3pm-8pm, Sat 10:30am-2pm. Email: [email protected] www.tamachi-shika.com CLINICAL TRIALS IN TOKYO NANODRI SWEAT-PROOF SHIRTS' No more embarrassing sweat stains! NanoDri® Sweat-Proof Undershirts use the latest Japanese nanotechnology to prevent embarrassing sweat stains from showing on your outer shirt. NanoDri® undershirts feature a hydrophilic wicking sweat absorbent interior and ultra-thin hydrophobic sweatrepellent exterior, resulting in sweat-hiding effects all over, including the back, sides and under-arms. The shirts are thin, soft, stretchy, and fast-drying. Never worry about sweat stains again with NanoDri!®, http://nanodri.jp JOBS CHAT HOSTS AND TEACHERS WANTED BY LEAFCUP in Tokyo, Iidabashi, Shibuya, Yokohama. Seeking enthusiastic, proficient English, French, Spanish, and/or German speakers who can teach and lead lively conversations. ¥1,000-¥1,500/h. Apply online: [email protected], leafcup.com/job LOOKING FOR PART-TIME PRIVATE TEACHING JOBS? Set your own locations, schedules, and lesson fees. Students will then directly contact you! Available for: English, Chinese, Korean, French, Spanish, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian, Thai, Vietnamese, Arabic, Indonesian and more. Register today! hello-sensei.com/en/sensei A leading research hospital in Tokyo is seeking healthy participants for clinical trials in May and June. The compensation amount ranges between ¥ 130,000—400,000 for completing one of the studies. Participants must complete a clinic stay lasting 4 to 7 nights, depending on the trial. The hospital provides meals, wi-fi, game consoles, English-language magazines and movies during the stay. Participants then return to the clinic for one or more follow-up checks lasting about two hours each time. The number of follow-up visits varies depending on the study. Please see www.clinicaltrialstokyo.com or email us at [email protected] gmail.com for more information about the upcoming clinical trials. Elana Jade Elana Jade Elana Jade Elana Jade ELANA JADE ORGANIC BEAUTY SPA, which caters to expat and Japanese clientele, is seeking an E/J bilingual manager. Management experience and a friendly, professional attitude a must. Salary starting from ¥270,000. [email protected] www.elanajade.com FOOD WRITERS WANTED. Got a great nose and the pen to prove it? Metropolis is seeking freelance food writers. Help us sniff out the best and most original restaurants, cafes and izakayas in Tokyo—after all, it's the city which Anthony Bourdain would eat in for the rest of his life. Please e-mail writing samples to [email protected] 43 BACKSPACE HOROSCOPE ♥ Love ¥ Money ♣ Luck BY CATHRYN MOE ARIES TAURUS GEMINI May 22-Jun 21 ♥♥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ♣♣♣♣ Jun 22-Jul 23 ♥♥♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣ What you focus on comes your w ay. Po we r h o u s e t r i o U r a n u s , Pallas Athene, and Venus are in Aries. Mercury is there too, going direct May 3rd. Thoughts and plans merge so fast; do a double-check to make sure you manifest what you really want. Ideas take shape mid-month when Mercury enters your income sector. Fight for that raise and make it stick. You may attract someone’s admiration the last week of May. Are you interested? They certainly are! The planets dance around your hopes and wishes. May begins with a fantasy that is hard to pin down. By May 10th you may make a snap decision to conserve your energy. The result is that you become stronger. If anyone is playing games, you will see through them. Psychic wounds start to dissolve, even if you thought they never would. Mercury transits into Taurus mid-May. You may make an art investment, spring for an impressive addition to your wardrobe, or meet someone with a lot of talent. There are moments when the light shines just right, and things are crystal clear. This is not the way May begins. Mercury is retrograde, and the heavens have left things hanging. Then it goes direct on the 3rd, and your perspective clicks into place. You can be more affected by a retrograde Mercury, your ruling planet, than other signs, except Virgo (who shares rulership with you). Expect a step forward on the 12th and 19th. Changes heat up the final week of the month. Your natural instincts are about to be rewarded. Mercury starts the month as a retrograde planet, but things soon smooth out as it goes direct on the 3rd. The first two weeks you may be itching to undo others’ mistakes at work. Then Mercury transits to a place in your chart where you can relax. Enjoy some down time with friends, or hang out where you know pretty much everyone. If you’re looking for romance, keep watching. A relationship mystery is about to unfold. LEO VIRGO LIBRA SCORPIO Standing up for yourself just got easier. Vesta enters your sign as May beckons. What you need to keep yourself feeling secure and comfy has celestial backing this month. Hold off on some bets the first week, as you are likely to be more lucky during the second. Changes are star-blessed, which can turn your life around quickly. The excitement you feel is just part of the promise. Destiny plays a part in an unusual offer the final week of May. Although time is racing, it’s resting, too. Your ruler, Mercury, starts this month still retrograde. Things have a surreal quality. With the Sun sextile Neptune, you may not know if you lived it or dreamed it. Then Mercury goes direct on the 3rd, and you can see forward. Your connections expand, and life has more meaning. By mid-month, you may realize you have to travel to accomplish certain goals. Or at least plan for it. Obstacles move out of the way the 28th, 30th, and 31st. You’ll find time and clocks hard to believe as May begins with Mercury still retrograde. Then Mercury moves direct on the 3rd, and you’re back on track. Watch for relationships to twist and turn on the 10th, then settle down on the 11th (hint – distract yourself so you don’t take things too seriously). By indulging in what refreshes you, your outlook attracts a higher vibe and more satisfaction. A new commitment may start on the 29th. What would life be without mystery? You’re always willing to take a deeper look. If you’re left alone long enough, you’ll feel your intuition! May begins with Mercury retrograde, so some facts and figures may need to be double-checked. You won’t want to take anyone’s word for it but yours! Then Mercury goes direct on the 3rd. You can share what you’ve found. Things get easier, as you’ve discovered a way to be secure. An obstacle on the 25th is just a bump in the road. Go around it. SAGITTARIUS CAPRICORN AQUARIUS Jan 21-Feb 19 ♥♥♥♥ ¥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣♣ Feb 20-Mar 20 ♥♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣ There’s no guarantee you’ll get all you ask for in May. That’s because this month starts with Mercury in retrograde. Things still need to be sorted. When all is said and done, you may decide to ask not for less, but for more. This planet goes direct on the 3rd, and zooms into another sign by mid-month. It leaves your romance sector and turns the focus towards your work. So if you have a chance to take a weekend away, just go for it. You’ll be glad you did! Peace comes at a price, as you’re constantly being hammered by other’s needs and desires. People think of Cancer as the nurturing one, but being its opposite, you’re right in there pitching. Whatever is missing in your life is easier to come by in May. Your field of energy heightens as a form of magnetic attraction. Mercury is retrograde as this month begins, but soon straightens out. The Sun sextiles Neptune on the 3rd as Mercury goes direct, and you reap the rewards of your stellar patience. You’ll look calm on the surface but will be paddling like mad underneath in May. There are several options open to you. Each one has merit, so it depends whether you want to jump, or dip in your toes to test the waters first. Brainstorms may look like they’ve backfired early on, as Mercury is retrograde. Then it goes direct on the 3rd, and you’re running to catch up. By mid-month personal interests have taken over. You’re not being self-indulgent, you are taking care of yourself! May is a special, harmonious month if you choose your surroundings carefully. This includes people, their agendas, and your desire for beauty and smooth connections. Mercury starts the month retrograde, so don’t blame yourself if you end up somewhere you didn’t mean to be. Just slip away back to start, and review your plans for the future. Mercury is direct on the 3rd, connecting with Uranus, Pallas Athene, and Venus. Romance beckons. Basically, try to hold onto your money, as it could go fast. Mar 21-Apr 20 ♥♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣ Jul 24-Aug 23 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣♣ Nov 23-Dec 22 ♥♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣♣ 44 Apr 21-May 21 ♥♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣♣ Aug 24-Sep 23 ♥♥ ¥¥¥¥ ♣♣ Dec 23-Jan 20 ♥♥ ¥¥ ♣♣♣ Sep 24-Oct 23 ♥♥♥ ¥¥¥¥ ♣♣♣♣ CANCER Oct 24-Nov 22 ♥♥♥♥ ¥¥¥ ♣♣ PISCES english dental info.com HAVE YOU EVER HAD DIFFICULTY COMMUNICATING WITH YOUR DENTIST? The English Dental Information Center links English-speaking patients with dental offices in the Kanto area which provide English language support. What we offer: ENT STUD S VI Aion for trat Regis 17 term 0 Oct 2 OPEN! W O N WE CAN VISIT YOU AT YOUR OFFICE Contact us for more information ü Documents such as medical forms and charts in English. ü Real-time translation to support communication and prevent misunderstandings. ü A directory of dental offices that offer a wide variety of services from routine check-ups and cleaning to the latest in cosmetic dental treatments. ü List of recommended dental offices based on your individual needs. ü Appointment services – we can make your dental appointment for you. JAPANESE PROFICIENCY TEST N1, N2, N3, N4 今年は"にほんごをもの"にする Free trial lesson for groups Monday-Friday 10:00-18:00 0120-068-882 (English) www.englishdentalinfo.com • Summer course available • One month intensive • 2 & 3 days a week • Private & Corporate • Business Japanese [email protected] 03-3713-4958 YUTENJI 03-3713-4958 JIYUGAOKA 03-3723-4785 EVERGREEN LANGUAGE SCHOOL Since 1949 D A I LY CO N V E R S AT I O N A N D B U S I N E S S J A PA N E S E www.evergreen.gr.jp ONE-STOP SERVICES IN ENGLISH PAccounting • Auditing • IPO Consulting • Due Diligence PTax • Tax Preparation • Tax Consulting • US Tax Filing • Accounting Services • Payroll Services PVisa Attorney • Establishing a Company & Branch Office • Corporate Services • Immigration Services KASAI CPA 042-401-0342 More Than Twenty Years Experience Takashi Kasai CPA Firm 4-1-2-403 Honcho, Kokubunji-shi, Tokyo [email protected] www.kasaicpa.com 45 THE LAST WORD WANT TO HAVE THE LAST WORD? Send your article to: [email protected] FURANSU, MON AMOUR Living la vie française in Japan's capital BY ANNA JASSEM I n the film Tokyo Fiancée — based on Amélie Nothomb’s semiautobiographical novel — a young Belgian Japanophile settles down in Tokyo only to quickly fall in love with her Japanese Frenchlanguage student, who is a member of a secret Francophile society. That Japan’s love affair with France is not just artistic license becomes apparent the moment you set foot in Japan’s capital. The city’s landmark Tokyo Tower is a younger and flashier sister of the Eiffel Tower, and Odaiba’s Statue of Liberty is a replica of the statue in Nice, rather than her big sister in New York. Every other bakery in town is “French,” which is to say all the names are in French, and most products resemble their French originals (though occasionally you may find red bean filling instead of chocolate in your croissant) but the staff will usually not speak a word of the language of Molière. Restaurant-wise, Tokyo offers some of the finest French dining outside of Paris. And you can choose between anything from Michelin-starred restaurants of Joël Robuchon or Alain Ducasse to cosy bistro-style eateries whose “French” names may sometimes make little sense to Francophones. The upscale shopping districts of Ginza and Omotesando rival the Champs Élysées for concentration of French luxury brands. And art enthusiasts are also spoilt for choice: last year alone Tokyo saw exhibitions featuring the works of Renoir, Gaugin, Les Nabis group as well as the masterpieces of Centre Pompidou, to name but a few. French expats marvel at how much they can learn about their own culture while living 10,000 kilometers from home. In Japan, old Europe, and in particular la belle France, are still considered by many to be the essence of high culture, beauty and good taste. French is the fourth most studied foreign language in Japanese schools, after English, Chinese and Korean. “For the Japanese, foreign literature is synonymous with French literature,” explain the staff at the French bookstore Omeisha in Tokyo’s “French quarter” in Iidabashi. The bookshop — in operation since 1947 — is visited more often by Japanese clientele than by the 8,000-plus French expats living in Tokyo. The allure of the French language is confirmed by Father Pierre Charignon, the chaplain of the Francophone Catholic Community of Tokyo. One of the Japanese members of the community explained to him that “God talks to [her] in French—the language that is logical, clear and beautiful.” For full French-immersion, some Japanese parents even choose to put their kids in French schools. Out of the 1200 students enrolled in Lycée Français International de Tokyo, 40% come from mixed Franco-Japanese families while a further 10% have two Japanese parents. Similar proportions are observed by Florine Lamoity, the director of the French-speaking kindergarten Au pays des Sakuras. “There’s a true fascination with French language and culture among Japanese parents, which makes me even more proud to act as an ambassador of my country,” declares Lamoity. Inevitably, the Japanese vision of France is an idealization fed by popular culture. In the words of Eriko Nakamura, a former NHK presenter married to a Frenchman: “The Japanese see Paris as the City of Light, the most beautiful city in the world, the capital of refinement and romance. A mix of Chanel N°5 commercials, Amélie Poulain and black and white photos of Robert Doisneau.” The reality — as Nakamura details in her hilarious book “Nââânde” — may be less rosy: rude taxi drivers, dirty public toilets, constant strikes. As of 2014, France remained one of the most popular destinations for Japanese tourists, yet for some Japanese visiting or settling down in France, the culture shock may be so intense that it results in a form of nervous breakdown dubbed “Paris syndrome.” For those anxious about confronting their dreams with reality, Japan’s capital makes it possible to live an almost perfectly French lifestyle. If you can afford it, that is. ■ Anna Jassem is the co-author of the upcoming book, In the Rhythm of the Seasons: Japanese Customs and Home Recipes. The views expressed in “The Last Word” are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the position or opinions of Japan Partnership Co. Ltd. or its partners and sponsors. 46 Recipe & Story Contest Your original dish could win you a cash prize! Send in your own recipe for either a Japanese dish or one from your country that uses soy sauce as an ingredient. Silver: ¥50,000 prize (2 winners) Bronze: ¥30,000 prize (7 winners) * Winners of Gold prize and silver prizes will be honored at the ceremony on Sep 30, which is Soy Sauce Day. Application Deadline: Wed, May 31, 2017 For more details visit: www.soysauce.or.jp/en
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