Heatwave Swimming Pools
brings water to life
Heatwave Swimming Pools
Installation Manual
Deluxe
Heatwave Insulated Panel Pool System by Certikin
There are many good reasons for owning a swimming pool. There are also many good reasons for it
being a Heatwave Pool.
Heatwave Pools use fully patented design uses heat retaining thermal panels. The panels act as a
thermal break preventing outside ground temperature extracting heat from the pool water.
Rapid construction is the basic principle of our patented design with major benefits over any other block
or panel pool.
Benefits include instant marking out with our unique channel, only a 375mm over-dig, less spoil
removal, less back fill, no footings, no dig outs for large A-frames, lower all- round excavation and raw
material costs.
Other benefits include: Strong lightweight panels for easy handling, self-squaring channel system for
simple assembly, pre-plumbed thermal cam-locked panels, a choice of 600mm radius corners, 45
degree corners and 90 degree corners. All panels are supplied with built in liner-lock. Step units are
also cam-locked to the pool shell. Heatwave Pool kits are also now available in 1.2m deep and 1.5m
deep modules.
All Heatwave Pool kits come with a standard wall vacuum point and a full patterned mosaic liner. Liners
can also be upgraded to a heavy-duty commercial liner, which is electronically welded on site.
All materials and equipment, including the filtration are of the highest quality and to pool industry
standards.
Please refer to your technical support CD for stage-by-stage photos of your HEATWAVE POOL
installation. Each section of this technical manual will refer to a specific folder on the CD containing the
relevant images.
1
INDEX
INTRODUCTION
INDEX
PRELIMINARIES
PLANNING PERMISSION
LOCATION OF POOL
SERVICES FOR YOUR POOL
TYPES OF HEATING
TOOLS YOU WILL NEED TO INSTALL YOUR HEATWAVE POOL
SETTING OUT THE POOL
DATUM
MARKING OUT THE POOL PROFILES
INSTANT MARKOUT OF THE POOL
EXCAVATING THE POOL
MARKING OUT AND EXCAVATING A HOPPER
MARKING OUT AND EXCAVATING FOR A STEP UNIT
ROMAN END STEP
SQUARE STEP
CORNER STEP
UNDERPOOL DRAINAGE
WATER SEEPING OR POURING INTO EXCAVATION
UNDERPOOL DRAINAGE IN RUNNING SAND
INSTALLING MAIN DRAINS
WALL MOUNTED MAIN DRAINS
JOINING THE TWO MAIN DRAINS TOGETHER
KIT COMPONENTS
BOTTOM WALL CHANNEL CONSTRUCTION
BOTTOM WALL CHANNEL WITH CORNER STEP CONSTRUCTION
POOL WALL PANEL IDENTIFICATION
SKIMMER PANEL
POOL LIGHT PANEL
PIT BUTTRESS LOCATION
PIT BUTRESS ASSEMBLY
CORNER PANEL
POOL WALL CONSTRUCTION 45 deg CORNER
POOL WALL CONSTRUCTION 90 deg CORNER
POOL WALL CONSTRUCTION 600 RADIUS CORNERS
CORNER POSTS
POOL WALL CONSTRUCTION 45 deg CORNER
POOL WALL CONSTRUCTION 90 deg CORNER
INSTALLATION OF STEP UNITS
TOP WALL CHANNEL CONSTRUCTION
WALL PANEL CAMLOCKS
BRACING BARS
CHANNEL FIXINGS
BOTTOM CHANNEL
TOP CHANNEL
BOTTOM CHANNEL RING BEAM
BRACING THE POOL
CONCRETING OF STEP UNIT
BACKFILLING
1
2/3
4
4
4
4
4/5
5
5
5
5/6
6
6
6/7
7
7
7
7
7/8
8
8
8
8
9
9
9
10
10
10
10
10
10/11
11
11
11
11
11
11
12
12
12
12
12/13
13
13
13
13
13
13
14
2
PIPEWORK AND PLUMBING
MAKING SOLVENT CEMENT JOINTS
FLEXIFIT JOINT INSTRUCTIONS
SKIMMER
TWO SKIMMERS
INLETS
VACUUM POINT
SUMPS
LIGHTS
BACKFILLING CONTINUED
CONCRETE TOP RING BEAM
PROTECTING LINERLOCK
COPINGS
LAYING THE POOL COPINGS
FLOOR SCREED
PREPARING THE FLOOR OF THE POOL
PREPARING FOR THE LINER
LINER UNDERLAY (OPTIONAL)
LINER INSTALLATION
VACUUMING THE LINER INTO POSITION
CUTTING THE MAIN DRAINS
INSTALLATION OF THE LINER AROUND THE STEP UNIT
CUTTING THE UNDERWATER LIGHT FITTING
CUTTING THE RETURN INLET FITTINGS
CUTTING THE VACUUM POINT
AUTO WATER TOP UP (IF FITTED)
CUTTING THE SKIMMER
THE SKIMMER LID
POOL SURROUNDS
STAINLESS STEEL POOL STEPS
DIVING BOARDS
SLIDES
POOL ELECTRICS
UNDERWATER LIGHTS
PLANT ROOM PLUMBING
STARTING UP THE POOL
PLANT ROOM BELOW WATER LEVEL
14
14
15
15
15
15
15
15
16
16
16
16
16
16/17
17
17
17
18
18
18/19
19
19
20
20
20
20
20
20
20
21
21
21
21
21/22
22
22
22
3
PRELIMINARIES
Before starting work on your Heatwave Pool kit, carefully read the following instructions. Please ensure
that you also familiarise yourself with the technical support CD, which comes with this manual. You will
then be aware of what is involved in the assembly of your Heatwave Pool. Remember, the finish of your
pool will depend on the quality of your work. You may want to employ the services of professional
trade’s people, such as local contractors or your Heatwave Pool dealer, if you feel you are not sure about
tackling these tasks yourself. A qualified electrician MUST carry out all electrical work. A Gas or
OFTECH registered engineer MUST also be used for all gas and oil connections and boiler/heater
commissioning.
PLANNING PERMISSION
The majority of authorities do not insist on planning permission for building a private swimming pool in
your garden. However, a pool with a permanent enclosure over it will require planning permission.
Restrictions do apply in areas of outstanding beauty, green belt or conservation areas. If in doubt,
consult your local planning officer for advice.
LOCATION OF POOL
Some notes of importance you should bear in mind before starting work on your pool. The pool should be
positioned away from trees, to reduce the problem of leaves falling into the pool and so the pool has the
benefit of as much sun as possible. Prevailing winds must also be considered as this may affect the
circulation of the water towards the skimmers. Ideally, the pool should be sited on level ground and as
close to the house as possible, so that changing and toilet facilities are convenient.
SERVICES FOR YOUR POOL
The filtration for your swimming pool should be sited as close as possible to your pool and enclosed to
protect it from the elements. The enclosure can be a garden shed, a summer house, or a garage, with
availability of the following:
An electrical supply and, if required, a natural gas/propane gas or oil supply for pool water heating.
A mains water tap. A hose from the tap to the pool will do, or you can have an automatic water top up
installed to your pool, which is mains water fed. (This unit can be supplied with your Heatwave Pool kit
as an extra if required.)
You will also require a soak-away or a drain to discharge the wastewater used in backwashing the filter.
The size of your filtration pump will determine the requirement for the drain or soak-away. If you are
unsure of the capacity required please contact your Heatwave Pool dealer.
TYPES OF HEATING
Your pool can be heated either by a gas or oil pool heater, a heat pump, a solar heating system or a heat
exchanger coupled with a domestic boiler. Your Heatwave Pool dealer can advise you on a suitable
option.
4
CAUTION
Check to ensure that underground services, i.e. telephone cables, sewage pipes etc. do not run through
the proposed site of you excavation.
N.B. The metric sizes given for each pool are only an approximate guide and therefore should not be
used for construction purposes.
SPECIALIST TOOLS THAT YOU WILL NEED TO INSTALL YOUR HEATWAVE POOL
• String line
• Laser level
• Spirit level
• Shovel
• Fork
• Pegs
• Paint spray /line marker
• Drill & Philip’s screw bits
• Commercial vacuum cleaner
• Protective gloves
• Protective eye goggles
SETTING OUT THE POOL
There are various ways of excavating your pool. Access to the site will determine the size of the digging
machine. Although heavier JCB and Hymac machines can be used we recommend use of a 360-degree
mini excavator. It is easier and cheaper if the excavated spoil can be ‘lost’ on the site, either around the
pool itself, if the pool is built partially out of the ground, or used to make a bank or mound in the garden.
If the spoil has to be removed from the site, this is a costly operation, involving the hire of grab Lorries
or tidy bins, thus lengthening the digging time. Prepare for marking out by scraping off the turf and
levelling the ground.
DATUM
It is advisable to set in a datum peg outside the excavation, so that the top of the peg is the top height of
the pool wall channel and the point from which all dimensions down are measured. The final finished
level of the top wall channel is important, as the pool surround will be laid to a fall away from the pool
as it may have to join up with a patio or path. If you have chosen reconstructed stone copings for the
finish around your pool. The final finished level of the pool coping will be 65mm above the top of the
datum peg. This represents the thickness of the coping and its bed. The most accurate method of
determining levels is by hiring a Laser level from a local hire shop.
MARKING OUT THE POOL-PROFILES
There are two methods of marking out your pool. We recommend the profile method outlined below,
which you will also find in stage-by-stage pictures on your technical support CD. We recommend the
profiles of the pool be set up between 200mm and 600mm above top of level of pool coping. Please
note that the top of coping is 65mm above the finished pool shell.
5
Option 1. Marking out the pool using profiles:
A profile represents two pegs with a horizontal cross baton. Two markers/nails are positioned on the
horizontal baton 375mm apart. One mark/nail represents the face of pool the other the excavation (overdig). Please see images on technical support CD for help. We recommend eight (8) profiles when
marking out your pool. These should be located well outside the excavation area. (see CD). By stretching
string lines across all profiles this will give you two grids. The inner grid is the face of pool and the
external grid is the excavation (over-dig). You will notice that on the technical support CD the pictures
clearly show a yellow string line as the face of pool and a red string line as the excavation. Once the
grids/string lines are in place, simply use a liner marker spray to transfer both lines onto the ground and
mark out the pool.
Option 2. Marking out the pool using the two peg method:
Having selected the dimensions required for your pool from the EXCAVATION DRAWING TABLES, set the
four corner pegs for the excavation, ensuring the diagonals are equal. Measure out the pool dimensions
and drive in pegs outside the excavation. Stretch string lines between these pegs and mark on the
ground with the line markers. During excavation, a line should be stretched across between pegs, to
check that the hopper (if applicable) is dug in the correct place, with the correct depth. Ideally, all the
pegs should be set to the same level as the original datum peg. Should any areas of the pool floor be
accidentally over dug, the hollows MUST be filled with an 18-1 lean mix of cement and ballast to avoid
future settlement. To ensure accuracy of the base dimensions, it is best to hand trim the final few inches
of the pool. While you have the digger on site, it would be easier to excavate the pipe work trench from
the pool to the plant room.
INSTANT MARK OUT OF THE POOL
Assemble the bottom channels of the pool at the place where the pool is to be sited. Using the line spray
marker, spray a line 375mm back from the inside edge of the channels all around the pool. Now remove
all channels. You are now left with the excavation line of the pool. Refer to above instructions for the
levels of the pool.
EXCAVATING THE POOL
Bulk out the soil using the large bucket and move soil working towards the over-dig. Establish the
finished level of the Heatwave Pool bottom channel. Using the blade for more accurate shaping, form the
base of the pool as per the supplied excavation plan. Carry out regular checks on the excavation using a
laser level.
This will initially be the same whether the pool has a constant depth or a hopper profile. The hopper will
be excavated later as per the following section of your manual.
MARKING OUT AND EXCAVATING A HOPPER
Please refer to the supplied excavation drawing for hopper position and intersection points. Using the
blade of the excavator prepare the shelf for the hopper. Then mark out the shelf for the hopper and
bottom channel using the face of pool marker or string line on the profiles. Establish the corners of the
pool by placing a level against the face of pool marker/string line on the profiles and transfer the corner
6
intersection onto the ground. Using a straight edge then join up the corners of the pool and spray lines
on pool floor to create a rectangle. Mark out the intersection points of the hopper square and spray
intersection lines on the wall of the dig. Mark out the hopper square on the base of the excavation.
Spray a diagonal line from the corner of the pool to the nearest corner of the hopper square. Then spray
a diagonal line from the corners of the hopper square to the relevant intersections of the shallow area of
the pool. Again please check your technical support CD and the supplied excavation drawing for this
information. Then position the excavator to the square of the hopper and dig to required shape and
depth. Shape the slopes of the hopper from the sides of the pool to the base of the hopper square.
Complete this on all three sides. Finally shape the slopes from the shallow end intersections to the
corners of the hopper square and leave any excess soil in one corner of the pool at the shallow end for
removal.
MARKING OUT AND EXCAVATION FOR STEP UNITS
Roman End Steps
Refer to the drawing applicable to your pool (showing the Roman end step). Mark a centre line along the
dig of the pool. Using a tape measure, ask someone to hold the end of the tape on the mark. Now read
1.8M on the tape measure. Swing the tape measure in an arc, at the same time using the line spray to
form a 1.8M radius line on the ground, this represents the radius of the excavation for the Roman end
steps. Excavation for the steps should be a 45-degree slope, leaving a clearance of 100mm behind the
steps to the ground.
Square Step Unit 1530 x 1200
Refer to the drawing applicable to your pool (showing the step unit), mark a centre line along the dig
line of the pool. Measure 1.075M each side of the centre line. Using the line spray, make a mark. This
will represent the side dig lines of the step unit. Next, measure back from the pool dig line 1.500M and
make a mark. This represents the back of the step unit dig line. You should now have a square shaped
excavation mark. Excavation for the steps should be a 45-degree slope, leaving a clearance of 100mm
behind the steps to the ground.
Corner Step Unit
The corner step unit is fitted directly into the corner of the pool, so no extra excavation will be necessary.
UNDER POOL DRAINAGE
This is not required on a free draining subsoil, i.e. gravel, sand or chalk, but if the subsoil is composed of
clay, there is the possibility of water collecting under the liner, so an under pool drainage system must
be installed. The ideal solution is to dig a trench with a fall from the bottom of the hopper (or the floor of
a constant depth pool), to a lower area in the garden, filled with 75mm land drains, surrounded by
shingle. This method can only be carried out on sites where there are big variations in levels, or if there
is a deep ditch nearby. Most pools are built on comparatively level sites and the following procedure
must be carried out. Over dig the shallower end slopes of the hopper (if applicable) by 75mm and dig out
the drainage pit approximately 1000mm x 1000mm and 600mm deep at the bottom of the pool. Fill this
7
pit with 150mm of shingle and lay in the under pool drainage pipe with pipe work to the outside of the
pool area and enclosed in a chamber with an access lid. The under pool drainage pipe will suck any
water through a collection tube, which prevents stones being sucked into the pump. Having installed the
under pool drainage pipe, completely fill the drainage pit with shingle. The over-dig can now be filled in
with 75mm of dry-lean concrete (18-1 mix). This will shape up the slopes (if applicable), cover up any
slippery, muddy clay, provide good drainage and will not subside. Please note that the installation of the
main drain suction fittings as specified later, should be carried out in conjunction with the dry-lean mix
topping. (SEE ENCLOSED UNDER POOL DRAINAGE DIAGRAM AND IMAGES ON TECHNICAL SUPPORT
CD)
WATER SEEPING OR POURING INTO EXCAVATION
If water is seeping or pouring in from a definite place or places, dig drainage trenches from these places
approximately 200mm wide and 200mm deep, down to the under pool pit. Lay 75mm drainage pipes on
a bed of shingle and surround with shingle. After completion of the drainage pit and trenches, a
diaphragm pump hired from the local plant hire firm, coupled up to the end of the pipe, will pump out
any water from the excavation and construction can continue. The over-dig can now be filled in with
75mm of dry-lean concrete (18-1 mix). This will shape up the slopes, cover up any slippery, muddy clay,
provide good drainage and will not subside. Please note that the installation of the main drain suction
fittings (as specified later) should be carried out in conjunction with the dry-lean mix topping.
UNDER POOL DRAINAGE IN RUNNING SAND
If running sand is encountered, it is best to seek professional advice.
INSTALLING MAIN DRAINS
The main drains, sometimes called sumps, are sited at the centre of the deep end of the hopper or
wedge, or at one end of a constant depth pool. Dig two pits 800mm apart, 400mm x 400mm x 300mm
deep, from the base of the pool floor and a small trench from the main drain pits up the side of the slope
(if applicable) to the outside of the pool wall. Make sure it is the side nearest to the filtration plant room.
Remove the main drains from their boxes.
Leave the grilles, flanges and screws in their boxes for later use. Do not remove the plastic covers from
the main drains, as it protects the screw holes from getting blocked with debris. In the bottom of the
main drain you will note a 1.5” threaded hole.
Screw into it a 1.5” threaded plug (provided), or a collection tube if a hydrostatic relief valve is to be
fitted (this can be obtained from your swimming pool dealer if required).
Each side of the main drains should be fitted with a 2”-1.5” reducer and a 1.5” socket nipple. Note
these screw joints must be sealed with P.T.F.E. tape (provided) to make a watertight joint.
8
JOINING THE TWO MAIN DRAINS TOGETHER
Cut a 450mm length of 1.5“ ABS pipe, making sure it is clean, and apply glue to the socket nipple and
the end of the pipe then push together. Next, glue into one end of the tee the other end of the pipe,
making sure the tee outlet is facing sideways. (See MAIN DRAIN PIPEWORK LAYOUT DRAWING.)
Clean and glue another 450mm length of pipe into the other end of the tee. Glue the other main drain to
the end of the pipe, making sure both main drains are level with each other. Position the main drains
into the pit, ensuring the tops of the main drains are level and 25mm lower than the finished floor level.
(If ever you should have to empty the pool, this will make it easier.) To stop the main drains moving out
of position, place concrete around the main drains, making sure you do not get any in the tee outlet. Cut
a 450mm length of solid pipe, making sure it is clean, and apply glue to the tee and the end of the pipe
then push together. Glue a flexfit elbow to the pipe facing the plant room side of the pool. Unroll a coil of
flexible pipe and insert one end into the flexfit elbow. Lay the flexible pipe into the trench and up the
slope (if applicable) and under the base of the bottom channel, taking it to the back of the pool wall, and
leave it coiled up on top of the over site for now. (See MAIN DRAIN SUCTION FITTING DRAWING.)
KIT COMPONENTS
Before starting to assemble the bottom wall channels, we recommend you spend some time identifying the
names of the kit components used to build your Heatwave Pool (see COMPONENTS DRAWING) and the
BOTTOM CHANNEL LAYOUT DRAWING applicable to your pool. Photographs of all the components can
also be found on your technical support CD. PLEASE ALSO REFER TO ABBREVIATIONS LIST ON PAGE 26.
N.B. PROTECTIVE GLOVES MUST BE WORN WHEN HANDLING POOL COMPONENT
BOTTOM WALL CHANNEL CONSTRUCTION
Position a corner channel so that the internal edges of the channel form the inside edge of the pool.
Working Clockwise, position a bottom channel shoe under the corner channel, locating the stud on the
shoe through the hole in the corner channel. Note the swivel lug on the bottom of the shoe.
This should be facing towards the outside of the pool. ( See Bottom Channel Shoe Joining Detail
Drawing.) Now position a straight channel to the corner channel, again locating the hole in the channel
over the stud of the shoe. Now position a shoe plate over the studs and with the nuts . fix the shoe into
position. (See Bottom Channel Shoe Joining Detail Drawing.) Do not over tighten the nuts.
Carry on until you have laid the last channel.(The bottom channel is designed to adjust to the length of
the wall panels.)If you find that after installing the wall panels the bottom channel is not long enough,
you can adjust the length of the channel by inserting a flat headed screw driver into the slot on the face
of the channel shoe, and levering the channels apart. Check the dimensions. (This means that once the
channels are laid, the width of the space between the channels in the middle of the pool is the same as
it is at each end.)
Now drive the 300mm long12mm steel pin through the 13mm hole in the swivel tag bottom channel
shoe, leaving 150mm of pin sticking up.
Next, check the levels of the channels. This is important, as your pool has to be level. If the channels are
low in places, pack up with slate or other materials that won’t rot. If the channels are high in places,
you will have to scrape out the high spots of the ground, so that the channels are level.
9
BOTTOM WALL CHANNEL WITH CORNER STEP UNIT CONSTRUCTION
Position the corner step unit so that the internal edges of the step unit form the inside edge of the pool.
Working Clockwise, position a bottom channel shoe under the step unit, locating the hole in the bottom
of the step unit channel over the stud in the channel shoe. Carry on as instructed in BOTTOM CHANNEL
CONSTRUCTION until you have laid the last channel.
Next, check the levels of the channels. This is important, as your pool has to be level. If the channels
and step unit are low in places, pack up with slate or other materials that won’t rot. If the channels are
high in places, you will have to scrape out the high spots of the ground, so that the channels are level.
INDOOR BLOCK & BEAM BRACE BAR FIXING
With reference to the top channel layout drawing applicable to your pool (see separate sheets in
envelope) note the positions of the abbreviated TCBS around the channels. You will need to fix the
horizontal brace bar, with the two raw bolts supplied, to the wall approximately 40mm down from the
top of the block and beam sleeper wall, opposite the position of the TCBS
POOL WALL PANEL IDENTIFICATION
Firstly, identify any wall panels which contain pre-plumbed fittings, as these must be the right way up
(identified by arrows on them) and with the faces of fittings on the inside of the pool (see PANEL
IDENTIFICATION DRAWING.)
The above instructions also apply to panels that do not have fittings.
SKIMMER PANEL
Ideally the wall panel with a skimmer fitted should be sited facing the prevailing wind. This is so that
the debris floating on the surface of the pool water is assisted into the skimmer by the wind.
POOL LIGHT PANEL
Pool lights, if fitted, should be facing away from the seating area, or from the house view, to avoid
looking into the glare.
PIT BUTTRESS LOCATION (For Automatic Covers)
Position the buttresses as shown on BOTTOM CHANNEL AND BUTTRESS LAYOUT DRAWING
applicable to your pool.
BUTTRESS ASSEMBLY
Under certain circumstances you will have to move a buttress to one side of the pool wall fitting. This is
then shown on the BOTTOM WALL CHANNEL LAYOUT DRAWING, labelled OFF SET BUTTRESS.
10
INDOOR BLOCK & BEAM OVERSITE
Having located the bottom of the buttress over the bottom wall channel, insert the spring nuts into the
buttress and into the brace bar that is fixed to the block and beam sleeper wall. Next, depending on the
distance from the buttress to the sleeper wall, cut the threaded rod to the required length. Now attach
the rod to the buttress by screwing into the spring nut in the buttress. Then unwind the rod so that it
screws into the brace bar spring nut. Note, by screwing in and out, it will adjust the linement of the
wall. Refer to Wall Block & Beam section drawing.
Next, fix another spring nut above the threaded rod spring nut and screw in to the 10mm hook bolt.
Repeat on all other buttresses (see separate fixing instruction for Automatic cover pit buttress)
Now locate the top channel buttress shoe over the wall panel, locating the two studs on the shoe with
the two stud holes on the buttress. Fix the shoe to the buttress with the two 8mm nuts provided.
Making sure the buttress is vertical,
CORNER PANELS
Pool Wall Construction 45 deg Corner
Starting with a corner panel, lower it down into the channels. Now position a corner post locating the
corner panel. Note the two 5mm holes located at the top of the corner post. Fix the post with the small
self drilling screw (provided) to the wall panel. Lower a side panel down into the channel locating the
corner post. Now continue around the pool, locking the panels together with the L-shaped key. (Note:
There are no cam-lock holes in the corner panels.) It is important at this stage to half-turn the key only.
If your pool is fitted with a step unit, this should be positioned before the straight wall panels (as it is
easier to reposition a wall panel than the step unit if necessary).
Pool Wall Construction 90 deg Corner Post
Starting with the corner panels, lower them down into the channels and camlock them together. Lower a
side panel down into the channel locating the corner panel. Continue around the pool locking the panels
together with the L-shaped key. It is important at this stage to half-turn the key only. If your pool is
fitted with a step unit, this should be positioned before the straight wall panels (as it is easier to
reposition a wall panel than the step unit if necessary).
CORNER POSTS
Pool Wall Construction 45 deg Corner
Starting with a corner panel, lower it down into the channels. Now position a corner post locating the
corner panel. Note the two 5mm holes located at the top of the corner post. Fix the post with the small
self drilling screw (provided) to the wall panel. Lower a side panel down into the channel locating the
corner post. Now continue around the pool, locking the panels together with the L-shaped key. (Note:
There are no cam-lock holes in the corner panels.) It is important at this stage to half-turn the key only.
If your pool is fitted with a step unit, this should be positioned before the straight wall panels (as it is
easier to reposition a wall panel than the step unit if necessary).
11
Pool Wall Construction 90 deg Corner
Position a corner post into the bottom channel. Next lower a panel down into the channel locating the
corner post. Note the two 5mm holes located at the top of the corner post. Fix the post with the small
self drilling screw (provided) to the wall panel. Continue around the pool locking the panels together
with the L-shaped key. It is important at this stage to half-turn the key only. If your pool is fitted with a
step unit, this should be positioned before the straight wall panels (as it is easier to reposition a wall
panel than the step unit if necessary).
INSTALLATION OF STEP UNITS
Carefully lower the step unit in position, and support the back of the step unit with wood or bricks, so it
will not move. Next cam-lock the step unit to the wall panel. Fit the other wall panel and cam-lock it to
the step unit .
TOP WALL CHANNEL CONSTRUCTION
Before starting, refer to TOP CHANNEL AND CHANNEL SHOE LAYOUT DRAWING applicable to your
pool. Starting with a top channel corner shoe, position it into the corner of the wall panel. Now position
a top channel shoe each side of the corner shoe, Now remove the corner shoe for the time being.
Position all the other top channel shoes applicable to your top channel and channel shoe layout drawing.
On certain pools you will see a channel support shoe, these are again shown on the top channel shoe
layout drawing applicable to your pool. Now fit the top channel over the channel shoes, then position the
corner channel shoe over the channel.
WALL PANEL CAMLOCKS
Now insert the L-shaped key into the wall panel holes and fully tighten all panel cam-locks. N.B. Don’t
use excessive force.
BRACING BARS
Brace bars and brace rods are used as a method of bracing the pool walls before backfilling. The
location of the brace bars and rods will be the same as the top channel brace shoe location (TCBS)
(see TOP CHANNEL LAYOUT DRAWING delivered with your Heatwave Pool kit).
It is important to brace the walls before backfilling. Dig a 450mm cube hole opposite the top channel
brace shoe allowing 900mm from the top channel shoe to the centre of the hole. (If longer brace bars
are needed due to ground conditions, these are available from your Heatwave Pool dealer).
Position the brace rod with the slot at the top and side (see WALL SECTION DRAWING) and drive it into
the centre of the hole so that the top of the brace rod is below the top of the wall channel, allowing it to
stand up.
Before threading the brace bar through the slot in the brace rod, wind a 10mm nut onto the brace bar
about 100mm in from the end nearest to the brace rod. Now screw the threaded rod into the threaded
hole in the top channel brace shoe(see WALL SECTION DRAWING WITH BRACE BAR). Then wind onto
the end of the threaded rod the other 10mm nut. Leave both nuts loose at this stage.
12
Next, fill the hole with concrete. Carry on fixing and concreting all the other brace bars and brace rods.
It is important that you let the concrete set before you can align the pool walls.
Before moving onto the bottom channel ring beam section check that the wall panel(s) are plum and in a
straight line by adjusting the two nuts on the bars.
CHANNEL FIXINGS
Bottom Channel
On the bottom inside edge of the straight channel, using the 5mm drill bit provided, you need to fix the
channel in three places. Once in the middle and once on each end of the inside edge of the channel.
Making sure there is no sag in the bottom channels, fix the bottom channel to the wall panels.
Top Channel
Using the 6mm drill bit provided, drill through the pre-drilled holes in all the metal shoes and through
the top channel making sure that you do not penetrate the wall panel. Using the 60mm screws, fix the
metal shoes to the top channel and through into the wall panel. Next insert a brown top channel spacer
into the channel slot. This will keep the channel slot level. Remove the spacer just before the pool liner
is fitted. Before concreting the top ring beam or oversite, screw a 10mm shoe anchor bolt into the
threaded hole in the top channel shoe. This will hold the pool walls to the concrete.
Bottom Channel Ring Beam
Pour concrete (six of ballast to one of cement mix) to a depth of 300mm. This should be placed around
the pool by hand (do not use mechanical equipment), all around the outside of the bottom channel. (See
WALL SECTION DRAWING.) Before the concrete sets don’t forget to check that the wall panel(s) where
the buttress(es) are fixed are plumb.
BRACING THE POOL
If the excavation is left open for any length of time we recommend that once the pool walls have been
installed and are plumbed, cross braces are installed at 2.5m centres along the length of the pool. This
is to avoid the wall panels bowing in due to unstable ground conditions brought on by adverse weather
conditions.
CONCRETING OF STEP UNIT
Mix concrete (8-1 mix) and carefully place the concrete behind the steps. Make sure the concrete gets
to the bottom. Fill until it reaches the bottom step and then stop. When the concrete has set you can
concrete again to the second step. Carry on as before, until it is 200mm from the top.
13
BACKFILLING
Standard .375mm Backfilling
Backfilling behind the pool walls can now be carried out. 22mm stone or pea shingle must be used to
ensure maximum consolidation. This should be placed around the pool by hand. Do not use mechanical
equipment. Stop when you have reached the underside of the pool wall fittings. Keep the backfilling
down to 700mm from the top of the pool wall where the skimmer opening is. This is so that it will be
easier to fit the skimmer throat to the wall panel.
Backfilling Overdig
If the pool excavation has been overdug on the length and width for more than the normal .375mm, the
backfill has to be constructed of a layer of pea shingle and a layer of concrete (See wall section with
brace bar for over dig) drawing. NB The concrete layer has to set before the next layer of pea shingle is
laid.
PIPEWORK AND PLUMBING
Before carrying out pipe work, please refer to ‘SUGGESTED POOL PLUMBING LAYOUT’ drawing
applicable to your pool size, ‘FLEXFIT JOINTING INSTRUCTIONS’ and ‘MAKING SOLVENT
CEMENT JOINTS’.
MAKING SOLVENT CEMENT JOINTS
1.
Ensure that the pipe is cut square. Remove swarf and put a small chamfer on the leading
edge of the pipe.
2.
Mark the socket entry depth on the pipe.
3.
Clean all jointing surfaces with pipe cleaner on a lint free cloth.
4.
Abrade jointing surfaces with emery cloth and then repeat the cleaning process.
5.
Using a brush or applicator of approximately half the pipe diameter, apply a generous coat of
solvent cement to the pipe, ensuring that the full joint surface is well covered. Without delay,
apply a coat of cement to the inside of the fitting. Immediately push the pipe and fitting together
using a quarter turn twisting motion, until the pipe hits the stop in the fitting.
6.
Hold the joint for a short while until the initial bond takes place. Finally, wipe off any excess
cement.
7.
Although the joint can be moved shortly after bonding pressure cannot be applied until the joint
has set. As a general guide, one hour for every one bar of pressure should be allowed before
pressurisation.
8.
We recommend that all pipes be pressure tested before backfill commences.
14
SKIMMER
The skimmer underside has two holes; one is threaded, the other is not. Glue in the plug provided to the
underside of the skimmer. Screw the socket nipple to the underside of the skimmer, making sure that it
has enough P.T.F.E. tape around the threads to make the joint watertight. Glue both sides of the skimmer
throat slot and the end of the skimmer (see separate instructions in skimmer box) and slide down the
skimmer into the throat. Make sure you wipe off any excess glue from inside the skimmer throat. Glue a
short stub of pipe into the socket nipple. Using a 90o elbow, glue the elbow to the stub of pipe. Next, fit
the pipe to the 90o elbow joining each length of pipe with a pipe socket and lay them in the trench to
the plant room.
TWO SKIMMERS
Fix the same as above. When you come to fix the 90O elbows, make sure you glue them facing each
other. Measure the distance between the two 90O elbows and make a mark on the wall panel. Position
the centre of the tee on the mark and measure the distance between the 90O elbows and the tee. Cut
lengths of pipe and fix to the elbows and the tee. Now fix the pipe into the tee, joining each length of
pipe with a pipe socket and lay it in the trench to the plant room.
INLETS
Glue 60mm stubs of pipe into the inlet sockets on the back of the wall panel, then glue 90O elbows to
the stubs of pipe making sure that the elbows are facing each other. Next, measure between the inlets
and mark the centre on the side of the pool wall. Position the centre of this tee on the centre mark and
measure to the inlets. Cut the pipe to size and fix it to the tee and the inlets. Fix a length of pipe to the
tee, joining each length with a pipe socket and lay it in the trench to the plant room.
VACUUM POINT
Glue a 60mm stub of pipe into the vacuum socket on the back of the wall panel, then glue a 90O elbow
to the stub of pipe, making sure it is facing towards the plant room. Fix a length of pipe to the elbow and
lay it in the trench towards the plant room.
SUMPS/MAIN DRAINS
Cut the vertical length of pipe from the main drains to approx 500mm from the top of the pool wall. Glue
onto it an elbow, making sure it is facing towards the plant room in the trench. Now glue the lengths of
pipe with pipe joiners and lay it in the trench towards the plant room.
LIGHTS
Screw the flexible conduit tubes into the back of the lights. Make sure the tubes are not bent or kinked.
The flexible conduit tubes will later be connected to the light deck boxes.
15
BACKFILLING CONTINUED
You can now continue backfilling. Taking care that you do not damage the pipes or fittings, backfill to
200mm from the top of the pool.
CONCRETING TOP RING BEAM/OVERSIGHT AND PATIO
The most vulnerable part of the pool wall is the top 150mm where thick ice on the pool can exert great
pressure and do damage to the pool panels so a concrete ring beam must be cast around the pool (and
Roman end steps, if fitted). See ‘POOL WALL SECTION DRAWING’. Scaffold boards or planks held in
place with pegs or concrete blocks should be positioned to act as shuttering whilst casting the ring
beam. Place a 6-1 mix of ballast and cement into the shuttering. Fill to the top of the pool wall and level
off. Consideration should be given at this stage to the installation of deck equipment such as steps,
diving boards, slides and deck boxes for lights. These items can be incorporated in with the casting of
the ring beam. See later sections and diagrams for these items. Also see technical support CD for help.
PROTECTING LINERLOCK
Protect the slot on the front edge of the liner lock with masking tape or liner lock infill (which can be
obtained through your swimming pool dealer). This will help stop any sand and cement getting into it if
pool coping stones are laid. (It is important that the liner lock slot is clean from any debris when the
liner is fitted.)
COPINGS
The coping stones are made of reconstructed stone and have a bull nose front edge. An additional set of
copings is supplied for the step units (if fitted).
LAYING THE POOL COPINGS
Before laying the copings, the top of the wall channels should have a bonding agent or cement slurry
applied to help the coping sand and cement bed to stick. We recommend Feb-bond-SBR. Mix a 6-1
mixture of sand and cement and level around the top of the wall channels slightly higher than the liner
lock. This screed must be perfectly flat and level. The corner copings are laid first, after pasting the back
of these corner copings with the bonding agent or cement slurry. Position the corner copings so that the
flat base projects approximately 10mm over the front edge of the liner lock. When the corner stones are
in position, a taut line can be stretched along the front edge to establish a perfect line, for positioning
the intermediate straight copings. As there is some slight deviation in thickness of the copings, it may be
necessary to slightly build up or reduce the sand and cement bed to make a perfect top line. The straight
copings should be laid working in from the corners to the middle of the sides and ends. This will ensure
that any cutting of the copings is in the middle of the walls. The coping stones are easily cut by using a
disc cutter hired from your local tool hire shop. An even gap of 12mm must be left between the copings
for pointing. This should be composed of a 1-1 mix of silver sand and white cement, mixed to a puttylike consistency. Care must be taken when it is trowelled into the joints and any surplus immediately
wiped off the surface of the copings with a sponge, to stop staining of the copings.
16
FLOOR SCREED - PREPARING THE FLOOR OF THE POOL
The accuracy of finishing can be improved by installing a frame of 50mm x 28mm timber at the hopper
or wedge bottom, and also a straight length of timber set at the correct height at the shallow end
division. The dimensions of the timber frame and division timber are shown on the ‘EXCAVATION
DRAWING TABLE’. Use timber pegs or steel pins to hold the timbers in place.
N.B. The top of the timber frame for screeding level at the bottom of the hopper and wedge pools should
be 50mm less than the depth shown in column K (hopper) or column J (wedge) on the EXCAVATION
DRAWING TABLE applicable to your pool. On the constant depth pools, the level of screed is the top of
the bottom wall channel.
(THIS FINISHED LEVEL IS VITALLY IMPORTANT AS THE LINER IS MADE TO FIT THESE DIMENSIONS
EXACTLY)
The mixture used for screeding should be a 6-1 mix of grit/sharp sand and cement. The mixture should
be damp but not wet. Level the mixture down the hopper slopes (if applicable), straighten up with a
length of timber, and finish off with a metal plastering trowel. When the hopper sides have been
completed, level the bottom of the hopper and work back up the long slope to the shallow end. The last
bit of floor will have to be finished off by leaning over the edge of the pool. The floor screed will be firm
enough to walk on the day after it has been laid. Do not forget that all pegs, battens and steel pins are
removed once the floor screed is completed, and any damage made good.
PREPARING FOR THE LINER
Remove tape or rubber insert from the front of the liner lock and vacuum out the slot. Brush and wipe
down the wall panels. Insert plastic caps (provided) into the cam-lock holes. Brush the pool floor with a
soft broom and vacuum away all dust and debris. If lights are to be included in your pool, fit the
underwater lights to the light niches in the wall panels. Undo the cable gland in the niche, slide the
gland assembly over the light cable, and push the cable into the niche and up the conduit to the deck
box. Screw the gland assembly up tight to the niche, coil the cable around the back of the light and push
the light into the niche, line up the two screws on the light to the screw holes on the niche and tighten.
Next remove the protective covers on the main drains. Clean the wall and floor fittings and make sure all
screw holes are clear. The fittings’ gaskets should now be fitted. The inlets, vacuum and lights have selfadhesive gaskets. The skimmers and main drains do not. A little drop of superglue is an ideal way of
fixing them.
17
LINER UNDERLAY (OPTIONAL)
Underlay whether felt, foam, if fitted, helps to provide additional protection against abrasion between the
liner and the floor screed and can give some degree of insulation. The felt or foam is cut to size and
glued down. The underlay and glue can be obtained from your Heatwave Pool dealer.
LINER INSTALLATION
The liner fitted to your Heatwave Pool is fabricated slightly smaller than the pool. This is so that it can
stretch into position during installation to give a perfect fit with no creases and wrinkles. Choose a
warm sunny day to fit the liner, as the heat of the sun will make the liner material more pliable. If this is
not possible, store the liner in a warm room for a day or two before fitting.
IT IS VITAL WHEN FITTING THE LINER THAT CLEAN, SOFT, FLAT-SOLED SHOES (OR NO SHOES) ARE
WORN BY EVERYONE ASSISTING IN THE INSTALLATION TO AVOID PUNCTURING THE LINER.
SIMILARLY, WHEN ENTERING THE POOL TO CUT IN POOL FITTINGS (RETURN INLET, VACUUM
POINT, SUMPS, ETC) IF WELLINGTON BOOTS OR WADERS ARE WORN, THE SOLES MUST BE FREE
FROM SMALL STONES AND GRIT.
Lower the liner down in its box to the shallow end of the pool floor. Remove the liner from the box and
carefully place it in the centre of the shallow end. Look for the label on the liner indicating the position
of the deep end. Unroll the liner down the length of the pool and unfold, making sure that the label faces
the deep end. On the top edge of the liner is a beading. This clips into the slot of the liner lock and holds
the liner in place. Starting from the shallow end corner, make sure that the corner of the liner is exactly
positioned into the corner of the wall panel.
Using your foot, hold liner in position and push the liner bead into the slot of liner lock track until it is
held in position. Work around the perimeter of the pool until the whole of the beading is locked into the
track. Ensure all four corners are correctly positioned. If not, adjust by sliding along the track as
necessary.
On hopper or wedge shaped pools, to stop the liner, (when filling with water) sliding down to the deep
end of the pool, we recommend you use sand bags to hold the liner into place at the shallow end.
VACUUMING THE LINER INTO POSITION
An industrial vacuum cleaner hired from your local hire shop is the most effective way of positioning the
liner. The vacuum sucks the air trapped from behind the liner and sucks the liner tightly back against
the wall panels and ensures an exact fit. To gain maximum suction from the vacuum; you will have to
obtain a seal that is as airtight as possible. Seal off with masking tape the open ends of the pipes going
to the plant room and the top of the skimmer (or skimmers). Approximately 500mm from one of the
hopper end corners, lift a small section of liner beading out of the liner lock track. Push the flexible hose
of the vacuum carefully down behind the liner to within 150mm from the base of the wall. Fill the gap
where the vacuum hose enters the liner with duck tape and then switch on. The liner will be sucked
back to the walls and floor. If the liner has been fitted correctly, it should be crease and wrinkle free.
18
Make sure all four corners fit correctly. At the base of the wall the liner may not be back hard to the
walls but, providing the liner is the same all the way round, it will go back when the pool is filled. If
vertical creases are present from the top of the wall to the floor seam, you will have to adjust the liner
by sliding it along the track. Make sure you turn off the vacuum while adjusting the liner. When you are
sure you have corrected the liner, switch on the vacuum and start to fill the pool. When there is 100mm
of water over the main drains stop filling the pool but leave the vacuum on. (The vacuum should be left
on until the water level has reached 150mm over the shallow end floor.)
CUTTING THE MAIN DRAINS
When you work on the main drains you will need:
• The main drain flange plates – grilles – screws
• Phillips screwdriver
• Bradawl
• Stanley knife
The main drains can be easily felt through the liner. Using the bradawl, puncture the screw holes.
Position the flange plate on top of the liner and line up the screw holes. Screw in the eight screws
lightly and then screw them fully home on a diagonally opposed rota. Using the Stanley knife, remove
the liner material in the centre of the main drain and locate the grille by screwing in the two grille
screws. Do the same to the other main drain. Continue to fill the pool.
INSTALLATION OF THE LINER AROUND THE STEP UNIT
The liner is fitted to the step unit with a U-shaped flange plate and a neoprene gasket, which seals the
joint with the liner. The flange plate is secured by means of stainless steel bolts. Remove the flange
plate and put it to one side. Lay a scaffold board or a strong timber across the top of the step unit. (This
timber should be long enough to extend 300mm approximately each side of the steps). Screw the length
of liner lock (provided) to the front edge of the timber and clip in the bead of the liner. Tape the back of
the liner to the step unit. This section of liner will eventually be cut out. Retain this section of liner for
patches in the event of accidents. With the vacuum running, continue to fill the pool until the water is
about 150mm above the shallow end of the floor.
Remove the liner bead from the liner lock track fixed to the timber. The weight of the water will stretch
the liner into the floor beneath the steps. The tension of the liner against the step unit should now reveal
the shape of the bolt holes, which should be clearly apparent.
Using a Stanley knife, nick the centre of the holes to allow the bolts or screws to penetrate through the
liner. Line the flange plate holes over the step unit holes and secure the flange plate with the bolts.
Starting along the bottom of the flange plate, tighten all bolts. Now using a Stanley knife cut out the
section of liner covering the steps on the step side of the flange plate.
19
CUTTING THE UNDERWATER LIGHT FITTING
The underwater light fitting must NOT be cut out until the water level is immediately below the light.
The twelve holes are easily located through the liner and pierced with a bradawl. The gasket and
faceplate should be aligned and securely screwed tight on a diagonally opposed rotation until firm. Using
a Stanley knife carefully cut out the inner circle of liner and fit the faceplate cover.
CUTTING THE RETURN INLET FITTINGS
The return inlet, or inlets, must not be cut until the water level has reached the underside of the fittings.
If the inlet fittings are cut before the water has reached this level, there is a possibility of the liner
stretching, causing creases around the fittings. Locate the holes in the fitting and pierce them with a
bradawl. Firmly screw the flange plate in place using a rotating basis. Cut out the circular section of
liner from the flange plate using a Stanley knife. The eyeball faceplate can now be screwed in place.
CUTTING THE VACUUM POINT
Follow the instructions for the return inlet fittings. Screw the vacuum face cover plate in place when you
have removed the sections of liner from the flange plate.
AUTO WATER TOP UP FITTING (IF FITTED)
Follow the instructions for return inlets and the instructions inside the box.
CUTTING THE SKIMMER
When the water level is below the skimmer (or skimmers), using a bradawl, pierce the screw holes.
Align the flange plate. Screw carefully and in diagonal rotations. Carefully cut out the rectangular inner
section of liner. Now clip on the skimmer face-plate. Continue to fill the pool. The normal level of the
pool should be halfway up the skimmer throat.
THE SKIMMER LID
You can move the skimmer lid up and down to suit the level of the pool copings and pool surround.
When you have established the final level of the lid, it must be bedded with sand and cement. Take off
the protective plastic film when work is completed.
POOL SURROUNDS
Pool surrounds can consist of paving, block pavers, tiles or a rubber/non slip surround. All these must be
fixed to a firm base. The surround should have a slight fall away from the pool rear edge coping stones,
to ensure surface water and any dirt is not washed into the pool. If the surrounding area of the pool is
made-up ground, it is best to lay a reinforced concrete slab upon which you can lay your choice of finish.
If the ground is solid then you could lay your choice of finish on sand and cement.
20
STAINLESS STEEL POOL STEPS
The steps are fixed into the pool surround by two pinch anchors that are set into the concrete ring beam.
You will note that there is a screw in each anchor. The stainless tube ends are held tight in the anchors
by the screws and can be loosened to enable the steps to be removed in the winter. Before setting the
anchors in the concrete ring beam, assemble the steps and push the tube ends into the anchors.
Temporarily, support the steps into position, making sure the step legs are upright and tight against the
pool wall. (SEE ‘STAINLESS STEEL STEP’ DRAWING). When positioning the anchors, make sure that the
screws are next to the pool edge. This is so that when the screws are tightened the ladder tubes are
pulled towards the pool wall. This stops the ladder coming out of the anchors when someone climbs in
or out of the pool. N.B. Do not disturb the temporary set up of the steps until the concrete has cured for
at least seven days.
DIVING BOARDS
Diving boards are not suitable for pools under 9.7m x 5.2m (33ft x19ft) or that have a water depth of
less than 3.0m (10ft). Most modern diving boards are constructed in glass fibre and coated with a nonslip finish. Diving boards come either with stainless steel fixing rods that are concreted in the oversite or
a moulded glass fibre base, which is bolted to the oversite, allowing removal in the winter. Fixing
instructions are supplied with each diving board.
N.B. IT IS VITALLY IMPORTANT THAT DIVING BOARDS ARE NOT INSTALLED ON POOLS WITH A
DEPTH OF LESS THAN 3.0 METRES, AND S.P.A.T.A. STANDARDS SHOULD BE REFERRED TO.
SLIDES
Pool slides are available either with straight or curved chutes. They are made of glass fibre and have
built-in water jets to help reduce friction in the chute. Pool slides must be positioned so that you have at
least a water depth of 1.2m to slide into the pool. The framework of the slide can be fixed to the pool
surround by two methods: The permanently cast-in anchor method or the deck anchor method, which
enables you to remove the slide. A mains water supply is required to supply the water to the chute.
Fixing instructions are supplied with each slide.
POOL ELECTRICS
It is essential that a qualified electrician carry out this work. The pump starter switch must be protected
with a correctly sized thermal overload to protect the motor. Starter overloads are supplied in different
sizes. Pump motors up to 1 HP require a 4-8 AMP overload and motors from 1 HP to 2HP require a 715 amp overload. We also recommend a control panel be supplied with your Heatwave Pool system.
Please contact your Premier dealer for advice.
UNDERWATER LIGHTS (IF FITTED)
The light transformer is usually installed on the plant room wall. A 2 core PVC insulated steel wire
armoured cable, connecting the transformer to the light unit joins at the deck box at the side of the pool.
It is important that the cable is correctly sized. See separate light instructions for full wiring details.
21
In order to accommodate the varying lengths of cable from the deck box to the transformer, there are
separate tapings on the transformer. These increase the electrical output and overcome the resistance of
the cable. These tapings should be used in accordance with the enclosed table found inside the
transformer box.
NEVER SWITCH ON THE LIGHT UNTIL THE POOL IS FULL OF WATER as the special sealed beam light
bulbs are water-cooled. A 30-milliamp-earth leakage circuit breaker must be fitted to the electrical
installation of all swimming pool equipment to conform to current electrical safety regulations. Optional
control panels are available from you swimming pool dealer. These would simplify the electrical
installation, giving you protection and time control over the electrical equipment.
PLANT ROOM PLUMBING
The Heatwave Pool filtration consists of a pump and sand filter complete with multiport valve capable of
filtering the pool water in under eight hours. The pipe lines, skimmer, vacuum, sump and return that
come from the pool to the plant room, should be positioned 180mm apart. Fix to each pipe, a flexfit
elbow with a length of solid pipe glued into the flexfit elbow, rising vertically into the plant room. (N.B.
Make sure the return pipe is approximately 400mm in length above the finished plant room floor as the
pipe has to be long enough to reach the return port on the multiport valve.) Set out the pump and filter
so that the pump is sited to the left of the filter. (SEE PLANT ROOM LAYOUT DRAWING). Before doing
any cutting and gluing of pipe work, you will have to work out the level from the front suction port of the
pump to the skimmer, vacuum and sump pipe lines. Glue and fix elbows onto the skimmer, vacuum and
sump pipe lines, making sure that they all face the same way towards the pump. Glue small lengths of
pipe to the skimmer, vacuum and sump lines’ elbows. Glue to the small lengths of pipe the three ball
valves then glue short pipe stubs into the ball valves. Next, make a manifold to fit onto the pipe stubs.
The manifold will consist of an elbow and two tees. (SEE PLANT ROOM LAYOUT DRAWING). Glue the
manifold together with short lengths of pipe; making sure the centres of the elbow and tees are the
same as the skimmer, vacuum, and sump pipe lines (180mm apart). Now, glue the manifold to the pipe
stubs in the ball valves. Next, cut a length of pipe 300mm long and glue it to the tee of the manifold.
Undo the pump union and glue the other half on to the 300mm pipe. Position the pump so that you can
do up the union. Assemble the multiport valve to the filter. Note union ports marked ‘pump’ and ‘return’.
Glue a short stub of pipe into the pump port on the multiport valve. Join up the pump union with the
multiport union, marked ‘pump’. Using 90 elbows or 45 bends, you may have to move the filter to
make it line up. Next join up the return line to the union on the multiport, marked ‘return’. If the plant
room is below water line you will have to fit a ball valve to the return pipeline. (This can be purchased
from your swimming pool dealer). This is to safeguard against flooding, if any work has to be carried out
on the filtration system. On the right of the multiport you will find a port marked ‘waste’. Glue into it, a
hose connector. A flexible flat backwash hose is jubilee-clipped to the hose connector. This would be
simply unrolled, when backwashing is required or draining of the pool. When the filter is in position and
the pipe work connected, the sand should be added by removing the filter lid and removing the top
spreader (depending on the type of filter supplied with your Heatwave Pool – some filters do not have
spreaders.) This is either a funnel shaped or rounded plastic piece, with lots of holes. In the bottom of
the filter you will find under drain collector tubes.
Check them for tightness and then pour water into the filter until the collector tubes are covered to a
minimum depth of 300mm. This prevents damage to the collector tubes when the sand is being added.
22
Cover the end of the vertical tube from the under drain collectors with tape. Carefully pour the filter sand
into the filter. Make sure the vertical tube stays central. Continue filling with sand to about halfway up
the filter. Level off the sand with your hand.
Before fitting the filter lid, make sure you remove all traces of sand that might be in the threads of the
filter. It is essential that the threads are clean. Remove the tape from the vertical tube and replace the
lid. Do not over tighten the lid.
STARTING UP THE POOL
Make sure that the water level in the pool is at the correct level, i.e. halfway up the skimmer throat. If
the plant room is above water level, the pump will require priming with water. Close all ball valves on
the skimmer, vacuum and sump lines. Remove the pump lid and fill with water. Replace the lid, making
sure that the pump lid seal is clean and in place. It is important that the lid makes an airtight seal,
otherwise the pump will not prime. Set the multiport valve handle to ‘RINSE’ position. The water will
pass through the filter and out to waste. Unroll the flexible flat hose and take it to a discharge point.
Start the pump and immediately open the skimmer ball valve. It may take a few minutes to clear the air
in the pipe before the pump primes up. If after a few minutes this has not taken place, turn off the pump
and the skimmer ball valve and repeat the procedure.
When the pump is pumping satisfactorily you will see water through the pump and filter lid and the
pressure gauge will register. Now open the second ball valve and then the third until all air is cleared.
The pump should now be working and well established. Turn off the pump. Set the multiport valve
handle to ‘BACKWASH’ position and start the pump.
In this position, the water will pass up through the sand, washing it and discharging the dirty water to
waste. You can observe the dirty water through the sight glass in the multiport valve and through the
filter lid. It will take about 2-3 minutes for the water to clear completely. Switch the pump off and select
‘RINSE’ position on the multiport valve. Switch on the pump and run for about 10 seconds. This is to
make sure that all dirty water in the filter will be flushed to waste. Switch off the pump and select
‘FILTER’ position on the multiport. Switch on the pump. With the multiport valve in ‘FILTER’ position the
filtered water will now be flowing back to the pool. If your pool has not been fitted with an automatic
water top up, you will have to fill the pool to its correct level, as back washing and rinsing reduces the
level of the pool. With the pump working, note the pressure on the gauge. Backwashing followed by
rinsing should be carried out on a weekly basis or when you note a rise in the pressure gauge of 2-3
PSI over its normal filtered reading. NEVER move the multiport valve lever when the pump is running, as
damage will occur to the multiport valve.
PLANT ROOM BELOW WATER LEVEL
Always remember to close all ball valves and set the multiport valve to ‘CLOSED’ position before
removing the pump lid or working on the filter. Failure to carry out instructions will result in flooding of
the plant room.
DO NOT FORGET to open valves when starting pump.
We confidently wish you many happy years of swimming in your Heatwave Pool.
23
APPENDIX
MAIN DRAINS
1/1a
WALL MOUNTED MAIN DRAINS
1b
POOL COMPONENTS
2
POOL WALL PANEL IDENTIFICATION
3
WALL SECTION DRAWING WITH PIT BUTTRESS
4
WALL SECTION WITH PIT FOR AQUAMATIC POOL COVER MK2
4a
WALL SECTION DRAWING WITH BRACE BAR
5
WALL SECTION DRAWING WITH BRACE BAR FOR OVERDIG
5a
WALL SECTION DRAWING WITH BRACE BAR & INSULATION
5b/5c
BOTTOM CHANNEL SHOE JOINING DETAIL
6
PIT BUTTRESS SHOE
7
TOP CHANNEL BRACE SHOE JOINING DETAIL
8
SUGGESTED POOL PLUMBING LAYOUTS – HOPPER POOLS
9
SUGGESTED POOL PLUMBING LAYOUTS –
CONSTANT DEPTH POOLS
9a
STAINLESS STEEL STEPS
10
PLANT ROOM LAYOUT DRAWING
11/11a
DELUXE PLANTROOM PLUMBING WITH 18” FILTER
12
DELUXE PLUMBING FOR MEDIUM SIZE POOLS
12a
DELUXE PLANTROOM PLUMBING WITH 24” FILTER TYPE A
13
DELUXE PLUMBING FOR MED / MID SIZE POOL
13a
DELUXE PLUMBING FOR MED / MID SIZE POOL WITH
CONSTANT FLOOR DEPTH AND WALL DRAINS
14/14a
ABBREVIATION LIST
15
ESTIMATED SCHEDULE OF BUILDING MATERIALS
16
MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES
17/18
INSERTS
EXCAVATION DRAWING TABLES
*
POOL WALL PANEL LAYOUT
*
TOP CHANNEL WITH CHANNEL SHOE LAYOUT
*
* ALL INSERTED INTO SLEEVE OF FOLDER SUPPLIED
*
24
MAIN DRAIN SUCTION FITTING WITH HOPPER OR WEDGE POOL FLOOR
MAIN DRAIN SUCTION FITTING CONSTANT DEPTH POOL
MAIN DRAIN AND PIPEWORK LAYOUT
MAIN DRAIN ASSEMBLY
FIGURE 1:
MAIN DRAIN PIPEWORK FOR ALL
POOLS USING 1.5” / 50MM PIPES
FIGURE 1A:
FIGURE 1B:
WALL MOUNTED MAIN DRAIN PIPEWORK
FOR ALL POOLS USING 1.5” / 50MM PIPES
DELUXE WALL POOL COMPONENTS
FIGURE 2:
PANEL IDENTIFICATION
FIGURE 3:
WALL SECTION WITH PIT BUTTRESS
FIGURE 4:
STANDARD WALL SECTION WITH BRACE BAR
FIGURE 5:
WALL SECTION WITH BRACE BAR FOR
OVERDIG
FIGURE 5A:
CONSTANT DEPTH ONLY (OUTDOOR ONLY) 1.2D DELUXE WALL
SECTION WITH BRACE BAR AND INSULATED FLOOR
FIGURE 5B:
CONSTANT DEPTH ONLY (OUTDOOR ONLY) 1.5D WALL SECTION
WITH BRACE BAR AND INSULATED FLOOR
FIGURE 5C:
CONSTANT DEPTH ONLY DELUXE WALL SECTION (INDOOR
POOL) WITH CONCRETE OVERSTITE SURROUND SLAB FOR
LINER POOLS
FIGURE 5D:
CONSTANT DEPTH ONLY DELUXE WALL SECTION (INDOOR POOL) FOR
BLOCK AND BEAM SURROUND SLAB FOR LINER POOLS
FIGURE 5E:
BOTTOM CHANNEL SHOE JOINING DETAIL
FIGURE 6:
PIT BUTTRESS SHOE JOINING DETAIL
FIGURE 7:
BOTTOM CHANNEL SHOE JOINING DETAIL
FIGURE 8:
DELUXE SYSTEM SUGGESTED POOL PLUMBING LAYOUTS - HOPPER / WEDGE POOLS
FIGURE 9:
DELUXE SYSTEM SUGGESTED CONSTANT DEPTH
PLUMBING LAYOUTS
FIGURE 9A:
STAINLESS STEEL STEPS WITH BRACE
FIGURE 10:
SUGGESTED PLANTROOM LAYOUT
FIGURE 11:
DELUXE PLANTROOM PLUMBING WITH 18” FILTER
FIGURE 12:
DELUXE PLUMBING FOR MEDIUM SIZE POOLS
FIGURE 12A:
DELUXE PLANTROOM PLUMBING WITH 24” FILTER
TYPE A
FIGURE 13:
DELUXE PLUMBING FOR MED / MID SIZE POOLS
FIGURE 13A:
DELUXE PLUMBING FOR MEDIUM SIZE POOLS WITH
CONSTANT FLOOR DEPTH AND WALL DRAINS
FIGURE 14:
DELUXE PLUMBING FOR MED / MID SIZE POOLS
WITH CONSTANT FLOOR DEPTH AND WALL DRAINS
FIGURE 14A:
Was this manual useful for you? yes no
Thank you for your participation!

* Your assessment is very important for improving the work of artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project

Download PDF

advertising