User manual | Issue 174 - Rowe Woodcraft

heirloom
corner
cabinet
Display and store your fine collectibles
in this beautifully trimmed design.
AT A G L A N C E
■ Overall dimensions are 37¤" wide ×
19‹" deep × 76‡" high.
■ Materials used: Red oak solid stock,
and birch and red oak plywood.
■ The cabinet assembles easily and
quickly with pocket screws, wood screws,
and biscuits.
■ The attractive molding and trim
profiles are made using common roundover, cove, and Roman ogee router bits.
■ You’ll find a simple process for cutting
the crown molding using a standard (not
compound) mitersaw on page 48.
■ A pair of cabinet lights install easily.
View a 15-photo Slide Show
on the Corner Cabinet
coming together at:
woodmagazine.com/
woodmagazine.com/slides
Let’s start with the cases
1
Cut the bottom- and top-case sides (A, B),
back supports (C, D), and backs (E, F) to
the sizes listed [Materials List, page 47]. (Cutting these parts for both cases now saves time
by avoiding repetitive setups.) Bevel-rip one
edge of the side pieces and both edges of the
back supports and backs at 45° [Drawings 1
and 2]. Note the opposing grain directions for
the back supports and backs.
Using a dado blade in your tablesaw that
matches the thickness of your ‡" plywood,
cut a ›"-deep dado on the inside face of each
bottom-case side (A) [Drawing 1]. Then, using
an auxiliary fence attached to your rip fence,
cut a ›"-deep rabbet across the top of each topcase side (B) on the inside face [Drawing 2].
2
Easy-to-install, low-temperature xenon lights
cast a soft glow on treasured pieces.
238
WOOD magazine
December/January 2006/2007
N
O
P
Q
R
S
T
U
V
W
X
Y
Z
45° bevel
1 BOTTOM CASE
3
20ˇ"
45° bevels
Mark centerpoints for ‹" holes ›" deep
‹" hole
for ‹" cushioned shelf pins on the bot45° bevel
8fi"
›" deep
tom- and top-case sides (A, B) [Drawings 1
#8 x 1‹"
and 2]. Drill the holes. For consistent drillE
2"
coarse-thread
A
ing depth, wrap a piece of masking tape
pocket-hole screw
26fi"
31‹"
around the bit for a visual stop.
A
2fi"
To mount the bottom‡" #7 x 1‹"
31‹"
2fi"
and top-case back
fine-thread
22.5° bevels
pocket-hole screw
1a TOP SECTION VIEW DETAIL
supports (C, D) to the
#7 x 1‹" fine-thread
4‡"
pocket-hole screw
backs (E, F) [Drawings 1,
#8 x 1‹" F.H.
C
1a, and 2], bevel-rip a
wood screw
G
1523/32"
1fi×12" piece of scrap ‡"
4Á"
I
¸" shank hole,
22.5° bevels
plywood at 45° for an
M
32fl"
29›"
countersunk on
alignment guide. Using the
1fl"
back face, centered,
K
guide to center each pair of
with a mating
1fl"
7⁄64" pilot hole
parts side-to-side [Photo A],
31‹"
fi" deep in part E
‡" dado ›" deep
glue and clamp the back
I
supports and backs together,
K
keeping Athe Nparts flush at
1a SECTION VIEW DETAIL
one end.B Drill
mounting
O
5fi"
‡"
#8 x 1‹" F.H.
holes through the back supC, D
31‹"
wood
screw
P
#8 x 1‹"
ports intoCthe backs, and drive
2"
coarse-thread
2"
E,F
M
the screws.
pocket-hole screw
D Q
A,B
To pocket-screw the bottomA,B
4Œ"
E R sides (A, B) to the back
26" 4‡"
and top-case
assemblies (C/E,
S D/F) and face-frame corF
ner stiles (I, J) later [Drawings 1, 1a, and 2],
#7 x 1‹" fine-thread
T
#20 biscuit
pocket-hole screws
draw fourG equally
spaced alignment lines
G
3‹"
for drilling the
pocket
holes
along
both
H U
‹"
edges of the sides on the back face. Because
M
Vthe parts at an angle, position
you’re joining
I
I ,J
H
K, L
the stop collar
on your pocket-hole jig bit to 1b FACE-FRAME BISCUITJ W
drill ›" deeper than the indicated setting for
1c FIGURE-EIGHT FASTENER DETAIL
SLOT DETAIL
X
joining ‡"
A N to ensure secure attachK material
Figure-eight
#6 x fl" F.H.
Y the jig, and drill the holes
ment. Position
fastener
wood screw
O
L
B
[Photo B]. Z
1 BOTTOM
CASE
G
Sand MallCof the
P parts to 220 grit. Then,
‡" counterbore
M
A
¤"
deep
with the bottom-case left side (A) and
fi"
K
B
D Q
back assembly
(C/E) correctly oriented
L
Ï" pilot hole
fi" deep
[Drawing 1],E apply
I J
R glue along the V-shaped
opening on the left sideFILENAME:CornerCab1_#100504221.eps
of the back assemA
#20 biscuit
Date: 8-06
S
Filename: 173 Cornercabinet
ˇ" to center
F
bly. Assemble
the parts,
drive the
Lorna and
J.
Inside
of biscuit slot
R LeMoineface
pocket-holeGscrews
T [Photo C]. Join the right
4
5
6
H
8-11
U
ASSEMBLE THE BACKS
I
J
K
L
M
3
POCKET-DRILL THE SIDES
V
JOIN A SIDE TO THE BACK
Part A tight
in V-shaped
opening
W
X
1b FACE-FRAME BISCUIT-SLOT DETAIL
Y
E
FILENAME:CornerCab1a_#100504222.eps
Date: 8-06
Alignment
Lorna J.
line
Z
Flush
C
,D
Filename: 173
R LeMoine
8-11
1c FIGURE-EIGHT FASTENER DETAIL
Filename: 173 Cornercabinet 3
R LeMoine
8-11
C
Back face of
parts A , B
E, F
FILENAME:CornerCab1b_#100504223.eps
Date:
8-06
Alignment
Lorna
guideJ.
A
B
With an edge of the back supports (C, D)
flush with the alignment guide, glue and
screw the supports to the backs (E, F).
Align and clamp your pocket-hole jig with
each of the marked lines on the back of the
sides (A, B), and drill the holes.
C
A
With the beveled edge of the bottom-case
left side (A) tight in the V-shaped opening in
the back (C/E), drive the pocket screws.
39
woodmagazine.com
FILENAME:CornerCab1c_#100504224.eps
Date: 8-06
2 TOP CASE
‡" rabbet ›" deep
12"
29›"
#7 x 1‹" fine-thread
pocket-hole screw
22.5° bevels
12Ø"
4"
Q
› x 1Ø" notch
22.5° bevels
O
42‡"
7"
¤" roundovers
2fi"
R=1"
26"
›"
1fi"
SHOP TIP
Use the right pocket-screw
thread type for the material
‡"
5"
R
2›"
Q
S
1523⁄32"
Add the cabinet bottom/top
15 ⁄
O
C
P
D
Q
E
R
F
G
S
T
23 32"
G
2¤"
2fi"
‡"
‡"
¸" shank hole, countersunk
KEYSTONE
on back
face, centered, with
a mating 7⁄64" pilot hole
fi" deep in part F
9fl"
4"
9fl"
Y
2"
3"
Y
2"
2‹"
1›" 3"
‹" groove 1›" deep, centered
1›"
DOOR TOP ‹"
RAIL
groove 1›" deep, centered
2›"
side (A) in the same way. Repeat to assemble
the top-case sides (B) and back assembly
FILENAME:CornerCab2_#100504225.eps
(D/F).
For guidance on using the right
3¤"
3¤"
Date: 8-06
pocket-screw
thread type for joining mateLorna J.
3¤"
rials, see the Shop Tip, above.
4Á"
Q
5"
2‹"
Q
#7 x 1‹"
fine-thread
pocket-hole2›"
screw
3 PARTS VIEW
F
2fi"
‡"
KEYSTONE
Pocket screws are available with coarse
G T 2fi"
‡"
3‡"‡"
and fine threads, and it’s important to
KEYSTONE
U
H
use the correct thread to prevent splits in
O
wood, plywood, and composite
1fi"
V
I
materials. Use fine-thread screws for ›"
Coarse-thread
hardwoods and coarse-thread screws J WFine-thread
CASE
1Ø" for 2 TOP
screw
for
¤"screw
round-over
for softwoods, plywoods, particleboard,
X hardwoods
CAPITALsoftwoods
K
and medium-density fiberboard.
and plywoods
Y
L
Z
M
B
¤" round-over
CAPITAL
#8 x 1‹" F.H.
wood screw
4"
2¤"
1fi"
2›"
B4" O
3‹"C P 4"
D
Q
E
1fi"
42‡"
42‡"
H 17˛"
34‹"
30"
¤" round-over
CAPITAL
1Ø"
¤" round-over
CAPITAL
A N
#20 biscuit
N
42"O
4"
P
3‡"
O
42‡" O
1Ø"
›"
A
‹" hole
›" deep
34‹"
3‡"
1
B
3‡"
2fi"
J
2"
F
2fi"
42‡"
J
D
B
1Ø"
L
#8 x 1‹"
coarse-thread
pocket-hole screw
45° bevels
‡"
›"
O
3›"
P
45° bevel
20ˇ"
2"
N
2fi"
M
L
G
‰" hole for lighting wiring
DOOR TOP RAIL
3¤"
3¤"
4Á"
1523⁄32"
G
‰" hole for lighting wiring
in top G only
2ˇ"
4"
1fl" 173 Cornercabinet 4
Filename:
R LeMoine 8"
29›"
9fl"
1fl"
8-11
32fl"5"
2¤
2¤"
CABINET BOTTOM/TOP
Y
2"
2Å"
2Å"
2‹"
3"
4"
2Å"
2Å"
2›"
1›"
4"
‹" groove 1›" deep, centered
Location of part F
DOOR TOP RAIL
Location of part F
Location of part D
‡"
17˛"
Location
part D
Location
of partof B
17˛"
‹"
Location of part B
H
Location of part J
‹"
3 PARTS VIEW
H Location of part
L of part J
Location
2¤"
3¤" Q
4Á"
2fi"
‡"
From ‡" birch plywood, cut two
G KEYSTONE
‰" hole for lighting wiring
15Œ×32‡" pieces for the cabinet botin top G only
‰" hole for lighting wiring
tom/top (G). To shape the parts to precisely
4"
2ˇ"
fit into the ‡" dadoes and rabbets in the bot- in top G only
3‡"
4"
tom and top cases1fl"
[Drawings 1 2ˇ"
and 2], cut a
8"
27"-square piece of ‹" 1fl"
hardboard to make29›"
Location of part L
O
30"
2¤"
1fi"
1fl"
8"
a template for pattern-routing.
Measure
for
32fl"
2¤"
Location
of parts T
29›"
FILENAME:CornerCab3_#100504226.eps
30"
34‹"
›"
equal diagonals to verify square.
1fl"CABINET BOTTOM/TOP
Date:
32fl"
2¤"8-06
Location
of parts T
TOP-CASE
BOTTOM
1Ø"
Draw a 4Á"-long line (for the back)
34‹"
CABINET BOTTOM/TOP ¤" round-over Lorna J.
across a corner of the hardboard [DrawCAPITAL
TOP-CASE BOTTOM
2
40
WOOD magazine
3¤"
17˛"
3¤"
4"
December/January 2006/2007
2Å"
2Å" 9fl"
5" 4"
LAY OUT AND FORM A PATTERN-ROUTING TEMPLATE TO SHAPE THE CABINET BOTTOM/TOP
A
E
A
Marked line
Plywood
straightedge
4" line
Hardboard
template
D
E
Holding a combination square against the
edge of each bottom-case side (A), draw a
4"-long line on the hardboard template.
Keeping the bearing of a flush-trim bit tight
against a plywood straightedge, true the
front edge of the hardboard template.
Positioning each side of the template tight
against the fence of your mitersaw, cut the
corners along the marked lines.
4
apply two coats of interior latex paint. (We
used Behr semigloss Silk Gown.)
ing 3]. Cut off the corner using your
mitersaw set at 45°. Next, position the hardboard in the dadoes in the bottom-case sides
(A) and tight against the back support (C).
Draw 4"-long lines on the hardboard extending from the front edges of the sides [Photo
D]. Then make a mark 2ˇ" from the edge
of the hardboard (not the back face of the
side) intersecting each 4" line. Align a
straightedge with the intersecting points,
and draw a line (for the front edge) across
the hardboard.
Jigsaw the hardboard to within ¤" of the
line. Save the cutoff—you’ll use it to
make a template for pattern-routing the topcase bottom (H) to shape later. Next, clamp
an 8×48" piece of fi" plywood having a
straight edge to the hardboard, aligning the
edge with the line. Using your router with a
top-bearing flush-trim bit, true the edge
[Photo E]. Now cut the front corners of the
template [Photo F].
3
PATTERN-ROUT THE BOTTOM/TOP
F
Using double-faced tape, adhere the
template, centered, to one of the plywood pieces for the bottom/top (G). Jigsaw
the plywood to within „" of the template,
all around. Then pattern-rout the plywood,
using the template as a guide for the bearing
of your flush-trim bit [Photo G]. Remove
the template. Repeat to shape the remaining
piece of plywood.
For the cabinet top (G), drill two ‰"
holes for the lighting wiring [Drawing
3]. Sand the bottom and top pieces smooth.
Then glue and clamp them in place in the
bottom and top cases.
From ‡" red oak plywood, cut a
17›×34›" piece for the top-case bottom (H). Set the piece aside. You’ll make a
template and pattern-rout it to final shape
after mounting the face frame to the case.
Apply a coat of primer to the front faces
of the top-case sides (B) and back (F)
and bottom face of the cabinet top (G). Then
5
6
7
On to the face frames
1
Cut the bottom- and top-case corner
stiles (I, J) and front stiles (K, L) for the
face frames to the sizes listed to fit the cases,
bevel-ripping an edge of each piece at 22.5°
[Drawings 1 and 2]. Then cut the rails (M)
to size except fi" longer to allow for precise
fitting between the front stiles.
Pair the bottom-case corner and front
stiles (I, K) and top-case corner and
front stiles (J, L) together. Mark centerlines
on the outside faces for #20 biscuit slots,
where shown. Adjust your biscuit-joiner
fence to center the cutter ˇ" from the back
face of the stiles on the beveled edges
[Drawing 1b]. (This prevents the cutter from
breaking through the outside face.) Plunge
the slots [Photo H]. Then glue and biscuit
the stiles together [Photo I].
2
PLUNGE THE BISCUIT SLOTS AND ASSEMBLE THE STILES
Template adhered
to plywood with
double-faced tape
I
K
Plywood
for part G
I
,
J
,K,
J
L
L
G
H
Keeping the bearing of the flush-trim bit tight
against the hardboard template, pattern-rout
the plywood bottom/top (G) to shape.
With the stiles (I, J, K, L) clamped to your
workbench, plunge #20 biscuit slots into the
beveled edges at the marked centerlines.
woodmagazine.com
,
,
I
#20 biscuit
Glue and biscuit the bottom- and top-case
corner stiles (I, J) and front stiles (K, L) together, drawing the joints tight with tape.
41
MARK THE FINAL RAIL LENGTH
ATTACH THE FACE FRAME
LAY OUT THE BOTTOM TEMPLATE
K
G
‹" overhang
M
K
I
Template on bottom
of top case
M
A
I
J
K
Flush
J
L
K
Position a rail (M) tight against the bottomcase left front stile (K) and overlapping the
right corner stile. Mark the final rail length.
Drive screws through the predrilled pocket
holes in the sides (A) into the corner stiles (I)
to fasten the face frame to the bottom case.
Draw lines along the corner and front stiles
(J, L) to lay out the hardboard template for
pattern-routing the top-case bottom (H).
3
5
2
To cut the rails (M) to finished length,
position the bottom-case stile assemblies
(I/K) on the case, tight against the angled
corners of the cabinet bottom (G) with the
corner stiles (I) overhanging the sides (A)
‹" [Drawing 1a]. Mark the exact length of a
rail to fit between the front stiles (K) [Photo
J]. Using a stopblock on your miter gauge
for consistency, crosscut the three rails to
the marked length.
To assemble the face frames, lay out the
bottom- and top-case stile assemblies
(I/K, J/L) and rails (M) front face down on
a flat surface in the configurations shown
[Drawings 1 and 2]. Clamp the frame members together, making sure to position the
bottom rail of the bottom-case face frame
where dimensioned. With the stop collar
repositioned on your pocket-hole jig drill bit
to the normal position for ‡" material, drill
a pair of holes at both ends of each rail,
where shown. Apply glue to the rail ends,
and drive the pocket-hole screws.
4
Position the bottom-case face-frame
assembly (I/K/M) on the case. Pocketscrew the frame to the case [Photo K]. Set the
top-case face-frame assembly (J/L/M) aside.
To join the bottom and top cases together
later, mark centerpoints for mounting
figure-eight fasteners on the top edges of
the bottom-case sides (A) and face-frame
top rail (M) [Drawings 1 and 1c]. Using a
‡" Forstner bit, drill a ¤"-deep counterbore
at each centerpoint, as explained in the Shop
Tip, below. Next, drill a centered Ï" pilot
hole fi" deep in each counterbore. You’ll
mount the fasteners later.
6
Make the top-case bottom
1
As you did for the cabinet bottom/top
(G), make a template for pattern-routing
the top-case bottom (H) to shape using the
‹" hardboard cutoff that you set aside earlier. Draw a 4"-long line (for the back) across
a corner of the hardboard [Drawing 3]. Cut
the corner using your mitersaw.
SHOP TIP
How to easily drill
partial counterbores
Here’s a simple and controllable
way to drill counterbores that
break through the edge of a
workpiece, such as those for the
figure-eight fasteners used to
join the bottom and top cases
together. Clamp a piece of ‡"
scrap to the workpiece, flush with
the drilling surface, as shown.
Then drill the counterbore using
a Forstner bit. The scrap provides
a continuous surface that keeps
the bit from wandering and
prevents tear-out.
42
Place the top case with the bottom up.
Then position the hardboard on the case,
flush with the back and sides. Mark the
locations of the face-frame corner stiles (J)
and front stiles (L) on the template [Photo
L]. Remove the template.
Align a straightedge with the marked
lines for the front stiles (L), and draw a
line across the template. Jigsaw to within
„" of the line. As before, true the edge
using your flush-trim router bit and plywood
straightedge. Then cut the front corners along
the marked lines using your mitersaw.
Adhere the template, centered, to the
17›×34›" piece of plywood that you
set aside for the bottom (H). Pattern-rout the
bottom to shape, and remove the template.
Sand the bottom smooth, and set it aside.
3
4
Trim the top-case interior
1
Cut the top-case rail (N) to the size
listed. Make two copies of the rail fullsize half-pattern from the WOOD Patterns® insert. Spray-adhere the patterns to
the rail. (You’ll need to flip the pattern over
for the right side.) Bandsaw and drum-sand
the arch to the pattern line. Then rout a ¤"
round-over along the front edge of the arch
[Drawing 2].
To form the capitals (O), cut a 1fi×8"
blank from ‡" red oak. Using a dado
blade in your tablesaw, cut a ›×3Œ" notch,
centered, into one edge. Rout a ¤" roundover along the indicated edges, ends, and
corners of the blank [Drawings 2 and 3].
Then, using a stopblock attached to a mitergauge extension, crosscut a 3‡"-long capital
from each end of the blank.
Cut the stiles (P) to size. Lay out the
radiused cutout on each stile [Drawing
2]. Bandsaw and sand the cutouts smooth.
Then rout a ¤" round-over along the front
shaped edge of each stile.
2
M
Scrap
3
WOOD magazine
December/January 2006/2007
4
5
5 CABINET EXPLODED VIEW
Cut the keystone (Q) to size. Lay out the
U
angled ends [Drawing 3]. Then bandsaw
V
and sand to shape.
Sand the rail (N), capitals (O), stiles (P),
and keystone (Q) smooth. Then place
the top-case face-frame assembly (J/L/M)
V
on your workbench with the back face up.
30"
Glue and clamp the rail to the frame [Photo
T
M, page 44]. Next, glue and clamp a capital
30fl"
and stile to each front stile (L) [Photo N].
Now glue and clamp the keystone, centered,
‹" cushioned
‰" double-strength glass
to the front of the rail, tight against the faceshelf pin
frame rail (M).
¤" round-overs
13›"
As you did for the bottom case, position
the face-frame/trim assembly (J/L/M/
4Œ"
N/O/P/Q) on the top case, verifying that
CC
the corner stiles (J) uniformly overhang the
31fl"
sides (B) ‹" [Drawing 1a]. Drive the pocket31Í"
hole screws through the predrilled holes in
the sides into the corner stiles to secure the
L
assembly to the case.
#8 x 1‹" F.H.
wood screw
Connect to
120-volt outlet
Transformer
G
Q
Wiring block
M
V
N
3‹"
12-volt light
6
T
O
3¨"
B
J
⁄ " pilot hole
‡" deep
7 64
P
CC
L
‹" groove ›" deep ‹" from top edge
T
Next up: the cabinet trim
N
O
P
#8 x 1fi" F.H. wood screw
1
Cut the bottom-case base-trim blank
(R) to size. Rout a ‹" Roman ogee with
a „" shoulder along an edge of the blank
[Drawing 4].
Q
Location of part AA on back face
S
Figure-eight fastener
„"
›" cove fi" deep
R
S
T
R
¤" roundovers
4"
45°
V
X
‡"
BOTTOM-CASE
BASE TRIM
Y
Z
FILES
›" cove
fi" deep
fi"
‹"
‹" W S
S
‡"
31Í"
Z
A
Doubleroller
catch
3Á"
K
G
I
CC
1‡"
No round-over along
top back edge
22.5° bevels
30fl"
3"
R
3¨"
›" cove
fi"
A deep
N
¤"
O
B BOTTOM-CASE
COVE TRIM
C P
S
M
‡"
W
¤"
BOTTOM-CASE
X
COVE TRIM
C
#6 x fl"
F.H.
wood
screws
AA
K
R
fi"
3¨"
E
R
13"
30Œ"
T
1"
4Œ"
BB
Y
W
‹" cushioned
shelf pin
T
M
S
30Á"
‹" Roman
ogee with a
„" shoulder
U
H
30fl"
4 TRIM/MOLDING PROFILES
¸" shank hole,
countersunk
on bottom
face
„"
‹" Roman
ogee
with a
„" shoulder
5a SHELF-EDGING CORNER DETAIL
D
Q
‹" cove fi" deep
E R
‹" Roman
BB or
ogee with a
5
CABINET
EXPLODED
VIEW
glass
shelf
45°
„" shoulder
‹" round-over
„"
S173 Cornercabinet 8
Filename:
F
FILENAME:CornerCab5_#100504228.eps
45°
‡" Date: 8-06
R 4"
R LeMoine
T
G T
CC
‡"
Lorna
J.
Filename: 173 Cornercabinet
fi" deep8-11
‹" Roman
H U
R LeMoine
Á"
ogee with a
¤" round-over
¤"
„" shoulder
V round-over
8-11
I
TOP-CASE MOLDING
‡"
R 4"
T
J W
‡"
BOTTOM-CASE
woodmagazine.com
X
43
K
BASE TRIM
Y
d-over
L
MOLDING
5
GLUE THE INTERIOR TRIM TO THE TOP-CASE FACE FRAME
Notched
end of part O
facedown
‡" spacers
MARK THE SIDE BASE TRIM
P
I
R
L
N
O
R
N
M
J
M
N
Glue and clamp the top-case rail (N) to the
face frame (J/L/M), using spacers to position
the rail ‡" below the top edge of rail M.
2
Bevel-cut a 5"-long piece from the blank
for the right side trim at 22.5° [Drawing
5]. Then cut an opposing 22.5° bevel on the
remaining blank. Position the two pieces on
the bottom case, and mark the exact length of
the side trim [Photo O]. Also mark the length
of the front trim (for the heel of the bevel) at
the outer edge of the left front stile (K).
Crosscut the side trim square and bevel-cut
the front trim at the marks. Clamp the pieces
to the case. Now, from the remaining blank,
cut the left side trim to fit.
Mark the center and ends of the arch on
the front trim (R) [Drawing 5]. Draw the
arch using a fairing stick. (For a free fairing
stick plan, go to woodmagazine.com/fairing.)
Bandsaw and drum-sand the arch to shape.
Sand the front and side trim smooth. Then
glue and clamp the pieces to the case, ensuring tight corners.
From ‡" red oak planed to match the
thickness of the plywood top-case bottom (H), cut a 2‡×42" piece for forming the
bottom-case cove-trim blank (S) and topcase molding blanks (T). Rout a ›" cove fi"
deep along an edge of the workpiece [Draw-
3
4
L
O
Then glue and clamp a capital (O) and stile
(P) in place in the orientations shown, tight
against the rail (N).
Keeping the joint of the bottom-case base
trim (R) pieces tight, mark the length of the
side trim at the edge of the corner stile (I).
ing 4]. Then rip a fi"-wide strip from the
routed edge for the cove-trim blank. Next,
to form the molding blanks [Drawing 4],
rout a ‹" cove fi" deep and ‹" round-over
along each edge of the workpiece, and rip a
‡"-wide molding blank from each edge
[Drawing 6, Steps 1 and 2]. Now rout a ¤"
round-over along each blank [Drawing 6,
Step 3]. Sand all of the blanks smooth.
Using the marking/cutting process that
you used for the base trim (R), cut front
and side pieces from the cove-trim blank (S)
to fit the bottom case and from one molding
blank (T) to fit the top-case bottom (H)
[Drawing 5]. Note that the side molding
pieces extend ‹" beyond the top-case bottom (H) to align flush with the outside edges
of the corner stiles (J) [Drawing 3]. Glue and
clamp the cove-trim pieces to the bottom
case, flush with the top of the face frame.
Glue and tape the molding pieces to the topcase bottom, flush with the top and bottom
faces. Set the other molding blank aside.
Cut the crown molding supports (U) to
size. Lay out a fl×1" notch on a support
[Drawing 7]. Bandsaw to shape. Using this
support as a template, mark the notch on the
remaining supports. Bandsaw and sand to
shape. Then drill a mounting hole, centered,
into the notched end of each support.
Holding your crown molding (V) with
the bottom edge flush on a flat surface,
measure the angle to the back face with a
protractor. (Our molding measured 38° from
vertical.) Using your mitersaw, cut the end
of each support (U) at this angle [Drawing
7]. Then glue the supports to the top case,
aligning the heel of the angled edge of each
support with the front edge of the rail (M)
and corner and front stiles (J, L) [Drawing
5]. Using the mounting holes in the supports
as guides, drill pilot holes into the case, and
drive the screws.
Using a mitersaw, cut the crown molding (V) to fit the front and sides of the
top case [Drawing 5], as explained on page
48. Then glue and clamp the molding to the
case and crown molding supports (U). Next,
from the molding blank (T) that you set
aside, miter-cut pieces to fit the case. Glue
and tape them in position, tight against the
crown molding.
5
6
7
8
6 ROUTING THE TOP-CASE MOLDING
Step 1 Rout a ‹" cove
fi" deep along both
edges of the blank.
Step 2 Rout a ‹" round-over
along each edge. Then
rip the ‡"-wide molding
strips from the blank.
2¤"
‡"
‡"
Router table
44
T
Step 3 Rout a ¤"
round-over
along each
molding strip.
T
‡"
T
Cutlines
‹" cove bit
T
fi"
Note: Use a pushstick
for safety.
T
›"
‹" round-over bit
¤" round-over bit
WOOD magazine
December/January 2006/2007
FORM THE DOOR-RAIL TENONS
8 BOTTOM-CASE CABINET DOOR (Inside of right door shown)
‹" groove 1›" deep, cut before shaping arch
Miter-gauge
extension
X
Auxiliary
fence
,
2" wraparound
hinge
3"
Y
Y
Roller-catch
clip, centered
¤"
Classic
pendant
brass pull
P
Using an auxiliary fence attached to your rip
fence, cut a ‹" tenon ›" long on each end
of the bottom and top rails (X, Y).
A
N
B
O
C
P
D
Q
E
R
F
S
G
T
H
U
I
J
K
N
L
O
M
P
Q
V
W
X
Y
Z
Cut the stiles (W), bottom rails (X), top
rails (Y), and panels (Z) to the sizes
listed, saving your cutoffs.
To cut ‹" grooves ›" deep in the stiles
(W) and bottom rails (X) and ‹" grooves
1›" deep in the top rails (Y) to fit the plywood panels (Z) [Drawing 8], cut a centered
groove along the inside edge of each part
using a standard blade in your tablesaw.
Reposition the fence. Then, making two
passes and flipping each part end for end,
widen the grooves to fit the panels. (We
made test cuts in cutoffs first to ensure a
good fit.)
Using a dado blade, form a ‹" tenon ›"
long on each end of the bottom and top
rails (X, Y) [Drawings 8 and 8a, Photo P].
Adhere the top rails (Y) together with
double-faced tape, keeping the edges
and ends aligned. Mark points for the arch
3
4
V
Y
Z
A
N
B
O
C
P
D
Q
Z
3"
24›"
9fl"
‡"
‹" grooves
›" deep,
centered
2"
X
9fl"
2"
7 CROWN MOLDING SUPPORT SECTION VIEW
U
X
21¤"
1
2
T
W
W
Swing over to the doors
R
S
W
Angle cut to
match spring
of crown
molding used
3‹"
U
8a RAIL-TENON DETAIL
1"
fl"
‹" groove
8›"BOTTOM-CASE
CABINET DOOR
deep,
(Inside of right door shown)
centered
‹"
2"
1‹"
R
fl x 1" notch
S
G
X
G T
T
FILENAME:CornerCab8_#100504232.eps
fi"
Date: 8-06
H UM
Lorna J.
¸" shank hole,
V
countersunk, with
I
a mating
N
7⁄64" pilot hole
J W
fl"
deep in part G
XL
K
Y
L
Z
M
E
V
F
8b BRASS-PULL MOUNTING DETAIL
Y
›"
2"
1fl"
Classic
pendant
brass pull,
Filename:
centered
173
1
Z
W Cornercabinet
R LeMoine
8-11-06
8a RAIL-TENON DETAIL
woodmagazine.com
45
8b BRASS PULL MOUNTING DETAIL
CC
M
Q
L
K
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Red oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
BB
O
on the face of one railN[Drawing 3]. Draw hinges
P on the back face of the outer door
the arch. Then bandsaw and drum-sand to stile (W) of each door, 3" fromY the top
Y and
bottom
shape. Separate the rails.
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Red oak (5.3 bd.
ft.) [Drawing 8].
Sand the stiles (W), bottom and top rails
Position
a door in the case, and reattach
T
(X, Y), and panels (Z) smooth.S Then
the bottom hinge by driving the screws
M
M
glue and clamp the doors
together, R
noting into the
prethreaded holes in the front stile
R
R W
W
the opposing orientation of the arched top (K). Then drill the mounting holes and
‡ x doors
7‹ x 96"
Red oak
ft.)
rails for the left and right
[Drawing
screw-mount
the top hinge to the stile.
5].(5.3 bd.
Repeat
for
the
other door.
V
Now mount the
fi x doors
2¨ x 96" Crown molding Cut the doorstop (AA) to size. Glue and
clamp it to the back face of the bottomTo mount the doors to the bottom case
with 2" wraparound hinges, cut a case top rail (M), centered side-to-side and
‡×3„" spacer from ‹"E scrap. Draw a line F flush with the bottom edge [Drawing 5].
across the spacer „" from one end. (PosiScrew-mount a roller-catch clip (supD
tioning the bottom hinges
plied with the catch) to the back of each
A in the case with
B
the 3„"-long spacer sets a „" reveal at the inner door stile (W) [Drawing 8]. Engage
bottom and top of the doors. You’ll trim the mating double-roller catch on each
C clip.
the spacer to 3" long to mount the hinges to Close a door. Holding the door flush with
the doors.)
the front of the case, mark the centers of the
Adhere the spacer and a hinge to the catch mounting slots on the doorstop (AA).
B for the other door. Then screwA front stile (K)
Repeat
bottom of a bottom-case
tight against the rail (M) with double-faced mount the catches. Remove the doors,
tape [Photo Q]. Drill the mounting holes, hinges, and roller-catch hardware.
Cutting
Diagram
and drive
the screws supplied with the
hinge. Remove the spacer, hinge, and tape. On to the shelves
‡ x 48 x 96" Birch plywood
Diagram
Repeat Cutting
for the opposite
stile.
Cut the shelf (BB) for the bottom case to
size. Lay out the angled sides [Drawing
Crosscut the spacer at the marked line.
Then, using the spacer, mount a pair of 5]. Bandsaw and sand to the lines. (We did
5
MOUNT THE HINGES TO THE CASE
AA
4
H
U
‡ x 48 x 48" Red oak plywood
5
1
K
6
2
Cut „" from spacer
to positionGhinges
on doors.
G
Position a spacer
and 2" wraparound hinge
at the bottom of a bottom-case stile (K). Drill
the mounting holes, and drive the screws.
‡ x 48 x 48" Birch plywood
Z
Z
Cutting Diagram
J
I
I
J
‡ x 7‹ x 96"IRed oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
K
‹ x 24 x 24" Red oak plywood
X
J
I
J
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Red oak
(5.3
bd.
ft.)
L
M
M
Q
1
3
‹×‡×3„"
spacer
CC
X
Q
CC
‡ x 7‹ x 96"MRed oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
O
L
K
FILENAME:CornerCabCD_#100504235.eps
P
N
‡ x 7‹ x 96"Date:
Red 8-06
oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
Y
Lorna J.
Y
‡ x 7‹ x 96"NRed oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
P
Y
T
S
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Red oak (5.3 bd. ft.) M
M
R
R
R W T
W
S
M
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Red oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
R
R
R W
W
V
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Red oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
fi x 2¨ x 96" Crown molding
BB
Q
Filename: 173 Cornercabinet 9
R LeMoine
8-11
U
BB
O
AA
H
Y
AA
H
M
U
‡ x 48 x 48" Red oak plywood
‡ x 48 x 48" Red oak plywood
V
fi x 2¨ x 96" Crown
molding
F
E
A
D
E
B
F
G
D
A
B
G
C
C
G
B
A
G
A
B
‡ x 48 x 48" Birch plywood
‡ x 48 x 48" Birch plywood
‡ x 48 x 96" Birch plywood
46
‡ x 48 x 96" Birch plywood
Z
Z
WOOD magazine
Z
December/January 2006/2007
not pattern-rout the shelf because it fits
loosely in the case.)
Cut the shelf edging (CC) to size except
32›" long. Make two 45° miter cuts at
each end of the three edging pieces, where
dimensioned [Drawing 5a], cutting the pieces
to the finished length. Then rout ¤" roundovers along the edges [Drawing 5], noting
the additional round-over along the top back
edge of two edging pieces for the top-case
glass shelves.
Glue and tape the edging piece for the
shelf (BB) to the front edge, flush with
the ends and top face. When the glue dries,
remove the tape, and sand the shelf and
edging smooth.
Using a dado blade, cut a ‹" groove ›"
deep ‹" from the top edge of the remaining shelf edging (CC) pieces on the back
face, where shown. Sand smooth, and set
the pieces aside.
To make a template for having two ‰"
double-strength glass shelves cut to fit the
top case, lay out the glass-shelf dimensions
[Drawing 5] on a piece of ‹" hardboard. Cut
the hardboard to shape. Using ‹" cushioned
shelf pins, test-fit the hardboard in the top
case, and trim if needed. Then take the template to a glass shop and have the pieces cut
to size.
2
3
4
5
Time to wrap things up
1
As needed, finish-sand the bottom and
top cases, doors, top-case bottom (H/T),
and bottom-case shelf to 220 grit, and
remove the dust. Mask the painted areas in
the top case. Remove all hardware. Then
apply a stain to the cases, doors, top-case
bottom, shelf, and two shelf edging pieces
(CC) for the glass shelves. (We used Zar OilBased Stain, no. 110 Salem Maple.) Remove
the masking from the top case. Now apply a
clear finish to all of the parts, including the
painted surfaces. (We applied three coats of
AquaZar Water-Based Clear Satin Polyurethane, sanding to 320 grit between coats.)
Mount figure-eight fasteners in the
counterbores in the bottom case using
#6×fl" flathead wood screws [Drawing 1c].
Using a helper, place the top case on
your workbench with the front up. Position the bottom assembly (H/T) on the case,
aligned with the back and sides. Drill
mounting holes through the bottom and into
the case [Drawing 5]. Drive the screws.
To install the lighting (see Source), route
the wires from the two 12-volt light fixtures through the ‰" holes in the cabinet
top (G). Then screw-mount the lights, transformer, and wiring block to the top and
make the wiring connections [Drawing 5],
2
3
4
as explained in the instructions supplied
with the lights.
Apply a small bead of clear silicone
caulk along the groove in each of the
two shelf edging pieces (CC). Then position
each piece on the front edge of a glass shelf
with the glass tight against the top of the
groove. Let the caulk cure for 24 hours.
Rehinge the doors to the bottom case.
Then remount the roller-catch hardware.
Now mark and drill pilot holes and mount a
classic pendant brass pull to the inner stile
(W) of each door [Drawing 8b], using the
screws supplied with the pulls.
Move the cases to the desired room location. Place the top case on the bottom
case with the backs and sides aligned. From
inside the bottom case, drill mounting holes
and drive #6×fl" flathead wood screws
through the figure-eight fasteners into the
top-case bottom (H) to secure the cases.
Finally, install the shelf assembly (BB/
CC) in the bottom case and the two glass
shelves in the top case, where desired, using
‹" cushioned shelf pins. Insert the lighting
plug into a 120-volt outlet, and turn on the
lights. Now fill the cabinet with your special
glassware, art objects, and other items, and
admire them and your awesome craftsmanship in a new light. ¿
5
6
7
8
Written by Owen Duvall with Jeff Mertz
Project design: Kevin Boyle
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
Materials List
Cases
T
FINISHED SIZE
W
L
Matl. Qty.
Top-case interior trim
bottom-case
sides
rail
‡"
7"
29›"
O
1
A
‡" 20ˇ" 31‹"
BP
2
O* capitals
N
‡"
1fi"
3‡"
O
2
B
top-case sides
‡" 20ˇ" 42‡"
BP
2
P
stiles
‡"
3›"
34‹"
O
2
Q
keystone
‡"
2›"
4"
O
1
C
bottom-case
back support
‡"
31‹"
5fi"
BP
1
D
top-case back
support
‡" 42‡"
5fi"
BP
1
R
bottom-case
base-trim blank
‡"
4"
42"
O
1
E
bottom-case
back
‡"
4Œ"
26fi"
BP
1
S*
bottom-case
cove-trim blank
fi"
‡"
42"
O
1
F
top-case back
‡"
4Œ"
42"
BP
1
‡"
‡"
42"
O
2
‡"
1523 /32"
32fl"
BP
2
top-case
T*
molding blanks
H* top-case bottom ‡" 17˛" 34‹"
OP
1
U
crown molding
supports
‡"
1‹"
3‹"
OP
8
V
crown molding
fi"
2¨"
96"
O
1
24›"
O
4
cabinet bottom/
G*
top
Face frames
I
bottom-case
corner stiles
‡"
3‹"
31‹"
O
2
J
top-case
corner stiles
‡"
3‹"
42‡"
O
2
K
bottom-case
front stiles
‡"
2"
31‹"
O
2
L
top-case
front stiles
‡"
2"
42‡"
O
2
‡"
2"
26"
O
3
M* rails
woodmagazine.com
Cabinet trim
Doors (2 needed)
W
stiles
‡"
2"
X
bottom rails
‡"
2"
9fl"
O
2
Y
top rails
‡"
3"
9fl"
O
2
Z
panels
‹"
9fl"
21¤"
OP
2
‡"
1"
4"
O
1
‡"
13"
30Œ"
OP
1
O
3
AA doorstop
Shelf
BB shelf
CC* shelf edging
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.
‡"
1"
31Í"
Materials key: BP–birch plywood, OP–red oak plywood,
O–red oak.
Supplies: #6×fl", #8×1‹", and #8×1fi" flathead wood
screws; #7×1‹" fine- and #8×1‹" coarse-thread pockethole screws; spray adhesive; double-faced tape; #20
biscuits; figure-eight fasteners (8); 2" wraparound hinges
(2 pr.); double-roller catches with clips (2); clear silicone
caulk; ‹" cushioned shelf pins (12); ‰×13›×31fl" doublestrength glass (2); classic pendant brass pulls (2).
Blades and bits: Dado-blade set; top-bearing flush-trim,
¤" and ‹" round-over, ‹" Roman ogee, and ‹" and ›"
cove router bits; ‡" Forstner bit.
Source
Hardware and lighting: Full back-to-back wraparound
hinges no. 31183, $5.99 pr. (2 pr.); double-roller catch
with clips no. 29785, $3.49 per pkg. of 4 (1 pkg.); figureeight fasteners no. 21650, $2.39 per pkg. of 8 (1 pkg.);
classic pendant brass pulls no. 67520, $12.59 ea. (2);
‹" cushioned shelf pins no. 81844, $3.99 per pkg. of 16
(1 pkg.); gold low-profile xenon pocket two-light kit no.
39696, $63.99. Call or click Rockler, 800/279-4441,
rockler.com.
Find more beautiful Shelving and
Bookcase Plans at:
woodmagazine.com/shelving
47

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