ultimaker 2
Safety and compliance5
What’s in the box?10
Ultimaker 2 at a glance11
Installing accessories12
Configuration wizard15
Start a print17
Display and controller20
This user manual is designed to help you start your experience with the Ultimaker
2. Within these pages, we want to show you how simple and easy it is to produce
great quality prints.
You might be familiar with other types of Ultimakers or 3D printers. It is however
essential that your read this manual carefully in order to get the best out of your
Ultimaker 2.
This is a class A product. In a domestic environment this product may cause radio interference in which case the user
may be required to take adequate measures.
The Ultimaker 2 can in very rare cases temporarily loose display function caused by ESD. Display function can be fully
restored by turning the machine off and then on again.
The EMC test report of the Ultimaker 2 is available on request at [email protected]
The Ultimaker 2 operates on 24 volts (Extra-low-voltage) and is therefore outside the scope of the low-voltage directive.
The power supply meets all CE mark regulations and is protected against short-circuit, overload, over voltage and over
temperature. For more information concerning electrical safety aspects we refer you to the Mean Well EC-Conformity
Declaration for the GS220AX power adapters.
Only use the Ultimaker 2 with power supplies and cables supplied by Ultimaker B.V..
CAUTION: Always unplug the printer before doing maintenance or modifications.
The Ultimaker 2 contains many moving parts, but the stepper motors do not have enough power to cause serious
injuries and moving gears have been covered. Still, it is advised to only reach in the machine when it is turned off.
CAUTION: Always unplug the printer before doing maintenance or modifications.
There is a potential risk of burns, as the print head can reach temperatures of up to 260°C and the heated bed of up to
120°C. The nozzle of the print head is mostly surrounded by an aluminum cover to prevent contact, but still we advise
against reaching in the machine when the print head and/or heated bed are hot.
CAUTION: Always let the printer cool down for at least 30 minutes before doing maintenance or modifications.
The Ultimaker 2 is designed to print with PLA and ABS filaments. The use of other materials is at your own risk.
When printing ABS, small concentrations of Styrene vapor can be released. This can (in some cases) cause headaches,
fatigue, dizziness, confusion, drowsiness, malaise, difficulty in concentrating, and a feeling of intoxication. Therefore
good ventilation is required, and long term exposure should be avoided. It is advisable to use a fume hood (with active
carbon filtering for ductless extraction). Fume extraction is mandatory for use in offices, classrooms and alike.
Printing pure PLA is considered safe, although good ventilation is still advised for possible unknown vapors released
from coloring dyes in colored PLA.
CAUTION: Only use your printer in a well-ventilated area.
The Ultimaker 2 is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical and/or mental capabilities,
or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction concerning the use of the
appliance by a person responsible for their safety.
Children should be under constant supervision when using the printer.
The above information is believed to be correct but does not purport to be all inclusive and shall be used only as a
The conditions or methods used for assembling, handling, storage, use or disposal of the device are beyond our control
and may be beyond our knowledge. For this and other reasons, we do not assume responsibility and expressly disclaim
liability for loss, injuries, damage, or expense arising out of or in any way connected with the assembly, handling,
storage, use or disposal of the product.
The information in this document was obtained from sources which we believe are reliable. However, the information is
provided without any warranty, express or implied, regarding its correctness.
Print technology
Fused Filament Fabrication
Build volume
223 mm / 223 mm / 205 mm
Layer resolution
200 micron (0.2 mm)
Normal:100 micron (0.1 mm)
High:60 micron (0.06 mm)
Ulti:40 micron (0.04 mm)
Positioning precision
12.5 micron / 12.5 micron / 5 micron
Filament diameter
2.85 mm (generally known as 3 mm filament)
Nozzle diameter0.4 mm
Print speed
30 mm/s - 300 mm/s
Travel speed
30 mm/s - 350 mm/s
Supplied software
File types
Supported OS
Cura - Official Ultimaker Software
Windows / Mac / Linux
AC Input
100 - 240 V
Approx. 1.4 AMPS
50 - 60 Hz
221 Watt max.
Stand-alone SD card printing / WiFi printing ready
Physical dimensions
Desktop space
357 mm / 342 mm / 388 mm
Shipping dimensions
400 mm / 400 mm / 550 mm
Weight11.2 kg
Shipping weight18.0 kg
Ambient operation temperature
Storage temperature
Nozzle operation temperature
Heated bed operation temperature
15 - 32 °C
0 - 32 °C
180 - 260 °C
50 - 100 °C
Average operational noise
49 dBA
CAUTION: The Ultimaker 2 generates high temperatures and has hot moving parts that can cause injury. Never reach
inside of the Ultimaker 2 while it is in operation. Always control the Ultimaker 2 with the button on the front or with the
power switch on the back. Allow the Ultimaker 2 to cool down for 5 minutes before reaching inside.
CAUTION: When opening the Ultimaker 2 for service, ensure that the power supply is turned off and the power cable
is disconnected from the wall socket.
CAUTION: Only use the power supply provided with your Ultimaker 2.
Now your Ultimaker 2 has arrived you’re ready to unpack it and set it up! We
recommend to carefully unpack your Ultimaker 2 and set it up according to the
instructions on the next pages.
The Ultimaker 2 comes in reusable, durable packaging so you can easily transport your Ultimaker 2. To properly unpack
your Ultimaker 2, please follow the steps described below.
1. After having opened the cardboard box in which your Ultimaker 2 was delivered you can start unpacking it by
first loosening the blue belt with which everything is kept together on the inside. After this you can remove the
cardboard accessories box from the top.
2. Next, take the complete foam packaging parts with the Ultimaker 2 out of the cardboard box. The easiest way to do
this is by holding the blue belt and pulling it out of the box.
3. Now you can take out the spool of filament and factory test print from one side of the foam packaging.
4. Open up the complete packaging by removing the two foam side parts and take out the Ultimaker 2 and place it on
a stable surface.
5. At last, cut the tiewrap with which the print head is secured and your Ultimaker 2 is ready to use!
Besides your Ultimaker 2 - supplied with SD card in the 3D printer - there are several accessories that come with the
Ultimaker 2. This is everything you need to start printing.
Power supply and cable
Spool holder
Glass plate
USB cable
Glue stick
Hex keys (1.5 mm, 2 mm, 2.5 mm)
Factory test print
Spare parts (hot end, PT100 sensor)
SD card slot
Push and rotate button
Build plate
Build plate clamps
Build plate screws
Print head
Bowden tube
Print head cable
Material feeder
Spool holder
Power socket
USB socket
Power switch
13 14
The first step of setting up your Ultimaker 2 is attaching the spool holder at the back side of the 3D printer. In the end,
filament will be placed on the spool holder in order to properly guide it into the material feeder. Make sure to install the
spool holder as described below.
1. Take the spool holder and insert the top part in the corresponding hole at the back of the Ultimaker 2.
2. Push the spool holder down until it snaps into place.
The glass plate is the print surface for prints on your Ultimaker 2. We are going to install it the following way.
1. Open up the two build plate clamps at the front side of the build plate by using a hex key.
2. Gently slide the glass plate over the build plate so that it snaps into the build plate clamps at the back side of the
build plate.
3. Close the two build plate clamps at the front to secure the glass plate.
CAUTION: The build plate clamps can be sharp, therefore it is advised to use one of the hex keys for opening the
build plate clamps.
To finish the installation the power supply will be connected, after which the Ultimaker 2 can be turned on. Before
connecting it, make sure the power switch is in the “off” position.
1. Connect the power cable to the power brick.
2. Plug the power cable in the wall socket and connect the cable at the other end of the power brick to the socket on
the Ultimaker 2. The flat side of this cable needs to point upwards.
When you switch on your Ultimaker 2 for the first time, it will guide you through the
“configuration wizard”. This will help you preparing the Ultimaker 2 for its first use.
Make sure to follow these steps carefully in order to get a well set up Ultimaker 2.
The display at the front side of the Ultimaker 2 shows you all necessary information for setting up and using your
Ultimaker 2. You can navigate through the menu by rotating and/or pushing the button at the right side of the display.
By rotating you can select or control an action; by pushing you can confirm an action. When pushing the button you
hear a “beep” sound to confirm the action. A blinking button means the Ultimaker 2 is waiting for user input.
After the “Welcome” screen, the Ultimaker 2 will guide you through some steps in order to calibrate the build plate. For
printing it is very important that the first layer is nicely squished into the glass plate and sticks well to it. If the distance
between the nozzle and build plate is too big, your print won’t stick properly to the glass plate. On the other hand, if the
nozzle is too close to the build plate it can prevent the filament from extruding from the nozzle.
Before the bed leveling can be done, the Ultimaker 2 will first do the “homing”. This means that it will move the print
head to the left back corner and the build plate towards the bottom, in order to set the origin point. After this, you can
follow the steps below for leveling the build plate.
1. The first step is to roughly level the build plate by rotating the button at the front of your Ultimaker 2 until there is
approximately 1 mm distance between the nozzle and build plate. The measurement here is not critical, just make
sure that the nozzle is close to the build plate without touching it.
2. Next, the same adjustment will be done on the front left and right side, but this time by turning the build plate
screws. Turning the build plate screws to the left means that the build plate will get closer to the nozzle.
3. The last step will be fine-tuning of the build plate. With regular piece of A4 paper calibration on all 3 points will be
checked and further adjustment will be done by turning the build plate screws. Place the piece of paper in between
the nozzle and build plate on each point and adjust the build plate screws until you feel slight friction when moving
the piece of paper.
NOTE: If you don’t see the configuration wizard, navigate to MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED and confirm for a Factory
reset. You can use this function at any time.
NOTE: After transportation you might want to level your build plate to ensure your 3D prints stick well to the build
plate. You can access the bed leveling menu at any time by going to MAINTENANCE > BUILDPLATE.
After bed leveling it is time to further prepare the Ultimaker 2 for the first print by loading filament. Before doing that,
first place the spool of filament on the spool holder with the filament in counter-clockwise direction, so that the filament
can enter the material feeder from the bottom.
Now you can start loading the filament in the following way.
1. Wait a minute while the print head is heating up. By heating it up we ensure that the filament is being melted when
it goes through the nozzle.
2. Take the end of the filament, insert it into the bottom of the material feeder and push it until the filament is being
grabbed by the knurled wheel. This may require some force. Once the knurled wheel has grabbed the filament, it
will slowly move it further into the bowden tube.
3. Wait till the filament reaches the first black bowden tube clip and then press the button to continue. The Ultimaker 2
will automatically load the filament through the bowden tube, into the print head.
Now you just have to wait until the filament is coming out of the nozzle. You may notice a ticking sound at the feeder;
this is nothing to worry about. If necessary you can manually push the filament in order to get it through the nozzle with
a bit more force.
CAUTION: Make sure to not touch the nozzle/hot end during this procedure as it will become hot.
NOTE: Don’t be surprised if the filament that initially comes out of the nozzle is not the color you expect. There is
probably some residue from the factory test print left in the nozzle. Wait until you see the color of the filament that
you loaded coming out of the nozzle.
Now the build plate has been leveled and filament loaded you’re ready to start your first print!
The SD card that came with your Ultimaker 2 (it is in the SD card slot at the front side) already contains a couple of print
files, which can be used directly. When going through the “first run wizard” you will automatically be guided to these
files. You can simply select one of the files and press the button to start the print.
After a print file has been chosen the Ultimaker 2 will prepare itself by homing the print head and build plate and
heating up the build plate and nozzle. Please note that this can take up to 5 minutes.
While printing, the display will show the progress of the print and the remaining time for completion. When the print has
finished the display will indicate that the Ultimaker 2 is cooling down. The progress bar also indicates when it is safe to
remove the print from the build plate.
NOTE: For good platform adhesion it is recommended to apply a thin layer of glue to the glass plate. Therefore you
can use the glue stick that was provided with the Ultimaker 2. You only need to apply glue to the area where the
model will be printed.
CAUTION: Don’t touch the print head/nozzle while it is heating, printing or cooling down. Temperatures can reach
up to 260°C.
Besides directly printing one of the files from the SD card with default settings the
Ultimaker 2 offers more options. You can use our open source software package
Cura to prepare your own 3D print files and the Ultimaker 2 even gives you the
possibility to fine-tune settings during the printing process. This allows you to get
full control over the printing process and helps you achieving the best print results.
For the Ultimaker 2 we recommend to use our software Cura to prepare your 3D print files. Cura will help you
converting 3D models into 3D print files within a couple of seconds and shows you a preview of the print in order to
ensure everything is as you would like it to be.
Cura can be downloaded from our website: ultimaker.com/software
After downloading, open the installer and run the installation wizard to complete the installation. When you open
up Cura for the first time, you will be asked to select the 3D printer that you have; select the Ultimaker 2. No other
configuration is required and you can directly start using Cura.
The basic process of converting a 3D model to a print file in Cura is described below.
1. Load a 3D model (STL or OBJ file) into Cura via the “Load” button.
2. Position the slider in the Print Setup screen to the desired position and wait for Cura to slice the model.
3. After you have done the settings and Cura has converted the file, you can save the print file (G-code file) via the
“Save” button in the bottom right corner.
When using Cura for the first time you will see the “Simple” mode in the Print Setup screen. This is perfect for
beginners, but when you’re a more experienced user and want to have more control over the print settings you can
also switch to the “Advanced” mode.
For more information on using Cura you can visit the Cura support pages: ultimaker.com/support/software
When turning on your Ultimaker 2, you will always see the Ultimaker logo first after which you will go to the main menu.
The main menu offers three options, as shown in the image below.
The PRINT menu simply allows you to select one of the print files on the SD card and will automatically start the print
after that.
In the MATERIAL menu you can either change the filament on your Ultimaker 2 or change the settings of material
profiles. When selecting CHANGE the Ultimaker 2 will automatically heat up the nozzle and unload the current filament,
after which you can insert new material. In the SETTINGS menu you can select material profiles and change their
settings in the Customize menu.
The MAINTENANCE menu offers various options. By selecting BUILDPLATE you will be guided through the bed leveling
steps. Especially after transport it is recommended to use this option to recalibrate the build plate. In the ADVANCED
menu several options can be selected in order to manually do certain actions or change machine settings. Below a
short overview of all these options is shown.
LED settings
Heatup nozzle
Heatup buildplate
Home head
Lower buildplate
Raise buildplate
Insert material
Move material
Set fan speed
Retraction settings
Runtime stats
Factory reset
Change the settings of the LED lights in your Ultimaker 2
Set custom temperature to manually heat up the nozzle
Set a custom temperature to manually heat up the heated bed
Homes the head in the left back corner of the Ultimaker 2
Moves the build plate to the bottom of the Ultimaker 2
Moves the build plate to the top of the Ultimaker 2
Heats up the nozzle after which you can insert filament
Heats up the nozzle after which you can use the scroll wheel to forward the material
Set the speed of the two fans at the sides of the print head
Customize the settings for retraction
Shows the current firmware version on the Ultimaker 2
Shows for how much time the Ultimaker 2 has been on and printing
A complete reset of your Ultimaker 2 through which you can completely recalibrate it
If you want to change settings during printing you can use the TUNE and PAUSE menu. The TUNE menu basically
shows you the same settings as in the ADVANCED menu, but it means that you can now change settings while it is
printing, through which you can have more control over the printing process. Furthermore, it is possible to select PAUSE
after which you can change the filament in the middle of a print and resume again.
In order to have a smoothly working Ultimaker 2 it is important to maintain it
correctly. In this chapter the most important maintenance tips are described. It is
recommended to read them carefully in order to achieve the best results with your
Ultimaker 2.
Once in a while a new Cura version and firmware version are released. In order to stay up to date it is therefore
recommended to download the latest version of Cura once available and update your Ultimaker with the latest firmware
as well. The latest version of Cura (including latest firmware version) can always be found here:
In order to install the latest firmware to your Ultimaker 2, please take the following steps:
1. Connect the Ultimaker 2 to your computer with the USB cable.
2. Attach the power supply and turn the Ultimaker 2 on.
3. Start Cura and go to “Machine” > “Install default firmware” (make sure the Ultimaker 2 is selected in the “Machine
menu”). Cura will now automatically upload the latest firmware to your Ultimaker 2.
After a lot of printing, there sometimes can be too much excess glue stuck to the glass plate. This can cause an uneven
print surface and it is therefore recommended to clean the glass plate once in a while. When doing this, always make
sure that the Ultimaker 2 is turned off and build plate has cooled down.
1. Before taking out the glass plate, first manually move the build plate to the bottom of the Ultimaker 2. This way
damage on the print head or Z trapezoidal leadscrew is prevented.
2. Open up the build plate clamps at the front side by using a screwdriver.
3. Slide the glass plate to the front of the build plate until you can take it out of the Ultimaker 2.
4. For cleaning it is advised to use some warm water and to brush off any excess glue. If necessary you can also use
some soap to clean it.
5. The glass plate can simply be place back by sliding it onto the build plate until it snaps into the build plate clamps at
the back of the build plate. Close the build plate clamps at the front side by hand in order to secure it.
CAUTION: The glass plate is positioned on an electrical heating area, so make sure it is completely dry before
placing it back.
NOTE: In order to be sure about a successful next print we recommend to re-level the build plate after having
repositioned the glass plate.
Using the feeder in the right way and keeping it clean is important for a good extrusion. A few tips are described below.
In order to guide the filament properly through the feeder into the bowden tube and print head, it’s important that the
tension on the feeder is set correctly. If the tension is too high, it means that the knurled wheel of the feeder will dig into
the filament, through which it flattens or - even worse - completely gets stuck. This is what we call grinding.
To prevent grinding of the filament it is therefore important to set the tension on the feeder as loose as possible,
meaning that the white insert clip should be completely at the top. You can achieve this by inserting one of the hex keys
in the hole on top of the feeder and turning it clockwise.
After a lot of printing, the knurled wheel in the material feeder can accumulate small plastic particles. You can clean
this by blowing air on the knurled wheel or using a simple brush. It is also recommended to clean the feeder when you
notice grinding of the filament.
To maintain your Ultimaker 2 correctly and keep it running smoothly it is recommended to lubricate the axes once in a
When you notice small ridges on the surfaces of your 3D printed objects or feel that the X and Y axes are dry it is
advised to put a single drop of sewing machine oil onto the X and Y axes. This will help your Ultimaker 2 running
smoothly. Sewing machine oil is not included in the Ultimaker 2 package, but we highly recommend to only use this for
lubricating the X and Y axes.
Once every half year the Z trapezoidal leadscrew has to be lubricated with Magnalube. This is the green grease that
was delivered with your Ultimaker 2. Make sure to spread 10 drops of grease over the entire threaded rod. With your
next print the Ultimaker 2 will lubricate the axis itself by moving up and down.
NOTE: Magnalube should be applied to the Z trapezoidal leadscrew only; make sure to not put it on any of the other
After a longer time of using your Ultimaker 2 you might notice some signs of “under extrusion”. This means that your
Ultimaker 2 can’t extrude enough plastic and is usually shown by very thin or missing layers in a print. In most cases, it
is caused by some dirt or carbonized material in the nozzle or another hot end part through which a (partial) blockage is
created. When under extrusion appears it is recommended to use the Atomic Method in order to clean the nozzle and
other hot end parts. Below, the process of this simple though very effective method is described.
NOTE: It is also adviced to use the Atomic Method when switching from a material that needs a higher printing
temperature to one that uses a lower printing temperature in order to make sure any residue from the previous
filament is removed.
1. Remove the filament from the Ultimaker 2
• Go to MATERIAL > CHANGE in order to remove the filament and instead of inserting new material, select CANCEL
• Manually move the print head towards to center of the Ultimaker 2 for easier access during the next steps
Removing the bowden tube from the print head
Open the black plastic clip that is around the bowden tube and print head cable closest to the print head
Remove the (blue or red) clamp clip
Press down the tube coupling collet and pull the bowden tube out of the print head
Heat up and preparation
Cut off approximately 20 cm of filament with a straight cut and try to straighten the filament as much as possible
On the Ultimaker 2, go to MAINTENANCE > ADVANCED > Heatup nozzle and set it to 260 degrees
When the temperature is reached, insert the straightened piece of filament manually all the way down to the nozzle
Push it slightly until either the new filament comes out of the nozzle or until the filament can’t be pushed any further
Remove the new filament
Lower the temperature to 90 degrees (for PLA) or 110 degrees (for ABS)
Once the temperature has been reached, pull the filament out with a quick, firm pull
Check the color and shape of the tip of the filament; the goal is to have a clean, cone-shaped tip
Repeat step 3 and 4 until the filament comes out without any residue and has a cone-like shape
5. Re-assembly
• Insert the bowden tube through the tube coupling collet all the way down into the PTFE coupler
• Place the clamp clip around the tube coupling collet so that it secures the bowden tube
There are a few printer specific issues that could show up while using your Ultimaker 2. If you ever happen to get one
of these issues, you can easily troubleshoot the issue yourself. Below a short overview of the most common issues is
shown. And the next page will show an overview of possible errors on the Ultimaker 2. For more instructions please
take a look at our website: ultimaker.com/support
Extrusion problems can occur in different ways and can have several reasons. The nozzle could simply be completely
block, through which no material is coming out of the nozzle at all. But it could also mean that the Ultimaker 2 just
doesn’t extrude enough plastic, leading to very thin or missing layers in a print. This is what is called “under extrusion”.
In most cases, extrusion problems are caused by some dirt or carbonized material in the nozzle or another hot end part
through which a (partial) blockage is created. In order to get rid of this there are a few things that can be done:
• Check if the filament has not grinded in the feerder. If it did, remove it from the machine first.
• Make sure the tension on the feeder is as loose as possible (white insert clip at the top).
• Try to manually extrude some material by using the ‘Move material’ option in the Advanced menu. You can put
some extra force on it by manually pushing the material at the feeder while doing this.
• Use the Atomic Method to remove any dirt or carbonized material from the hot end.
After having used the Ultimaker 2 for a longer time already it could also mean that the PTFE coupler has deformed,
causing fritcion to the filament. This consumable item has the tendency to wear over time due to the heat and pressure
from the hot end. If none of the above described options works, it is advised to take a closer look at the PTFE coupler.
A deformed PTFE coupler can be recognized by a (small) brim on the inside at the bottom. Instructions for this can be
found on the website.
If Cura doesn’t recognize your Ultimaker 2 when you want to upload firmware, there is a problem with the connection
due to software or hardware failure. The following checks are advised in this case:
• Make sure everything is connected properly (power supply and USB cable) and that the Ultimaker 2 is turned on
when uploading firmware. If possible, you can also try another USB cable.
• Check if the latest version of Cura is installed on your computer.
• Try connecting on a different computer, preferably with a different Operation System.
When you’re experiencing difficulties with prints sticking to the build plate, there could be a few things going on. It
could either mean that the first layer just doesn’t stick well enough or that the prints gets loose due to “warping” of the
plastic. Warping basically happens because of the properties of the plastic. Plastics have the tendency to shrink when
cooling down fast (some plastics more than others), which could eventually lead to your print curling up (at the corners).
You will especially notice this behaviour when printing ABS, which has a relatively big shrinkage.
In order to decrease the amount of warping and have a good first layer you can do the following:
• Check if the heated bed is set to the correct temperature (60°C for PLA and 90°C for ABS).
• In order to have a nice first layer, make sure that the build plate is properly leveled.
• For good adhesion you will either need a completely clean glass plate (e.g. no oil on it) or a thin layer of glue
applied to the glass plate.
• A nice feature in Cura to help preventing warping is called “Brim”. It will place a single layer thick flat area around
your object, thus creating a bigger adhesion surface.
This refers to a problem with the PT100 B sensor, which is the sensor that
measures the temperature of the nozzle. It means that the sensor registers
incorrect values and due to safety reasons it will prevent the nozzle from
heating up. The most likely reason for this is connection problem, which
could either happen due to a bad connection at the main board or damage
of the sensor itself.
ERROR - STOPPED TEMP SENSOR BED This error refers to a problem with the sensor of the heated bed. It means
that the sensor registers incorrect values and due to safety reasons it will
prevent the heated bed from heating up. The most likely reason for this is
connection problem, which could happen due to a bad connection on the
heated bed or main board, or damage of the sensor itself.
The heater error can appear when the sensor doesn’t register a steady
(increase in) temperature. This could mean that the heater cartridge is not
connected properly and to prevent overheating of the nozzle it will therefore
turn the heater cartridge off.
If you get one of these errors it means that there is a problem with the Z
limit switch. It either tells you that the Z limit switch can’t be pressed or that
something is preventing the lever of the switch from switching back.
This error occurs when either the X or Y limit switch is not activated while
the print head is homing.
In case you run into any difficulties with your Ultimaker 2 or need advice on using your Ultimaker 2, then please take a
look our website: ultimaker.com/support
The website contains a wealth of (troubleshooting) information and is a great source for quickly trying to solve issues
on your own and getting more experienced with 3D printing. We also have a very active online community with
experienced users who are willing to share tips and solutions and can help you getting the best out of your Ultimaker 2
as well.
If you ever need personal help resolving an issue with your Ultimaker 2 you can also get in touch with one of our local
support teams. Therefore, please take a look at the website for contact details.
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