Alsa Refinish KC-KC101 Instructions / Assembly

Alsa Refinish KC-KC101 Instructions / Assembly
How to Apply (Application Steps)
Surface Preparation:
1 Always apply paints in a well-ventilated area, and wear a NIOSH approved respirator
to avoid breathing any fumes.
2 Make sure you have good conditions for spraying. The best temperature for spraying
this paint, is 75-80 degrees F, and VERY low humidity.
3 Prepare and prime your part first. Epoxy primers are best for bare metal, and primer
surfacers are best for plastics, fiberglass, or wood. Some plastics may require an
adhesion promoter but most plastics, like ABS plastic, are fine without adhesion
promoters. Our tech support department can assist with what primer is best, if you are
4 Before applying your primer, remove all dirt, grease, oil, salt, and chemical
contaminants, by washing the surface with a commercial detergent, or other suitable
cleaning method.
5 Rinse with fresh water and allow to completely dry.
6 Remove any existing loose paint, or rust, etc, with a wire brush or sand paper.
7 Lightly sand glossy surfaces to create a surface profile for adhesion.
8 Apply your primer to the surface according to the manufacturers specifications for your
particular primer.
9 Let your primer cure according to the manufacturers specifications for your particular
primer, and then lightly scuff that to create a surface profile for adhesion.
Killer Chrome Application:
Killer Chrome is a VERY technique driven application. It is sold as a kit, as it is very sensitive
to clears. You should only use OUR clear coat with this material. Any good black urethane
base coat should be fine.
This application can take a fair amount of practice to become proficient with. Patience is the
Test panels are strongly urged, in order to develop the correct “FEEL” for spraying the
chrome material. A very light dusting technique will be needed, and is critical to the
application. Over applying the Killer Chrome will result in a dull finish, similar to silver paint.
If applying over an ALREADY PAINTED SURFACE, lightly scuff the existing paint to create a
surface for adhesion.
1 We are starting with the black base coat (KC-ASB-13)
2 Apply 2 coats of the black base coat to your prepared piece, with about 5-10 minutes
flash time between coats.
Apply the 2 coats using a steady back and forth motion, about 6-10 inches from your
substrate, until even coverage is achieved.
Once coated, let the black base coat flash for another 5-10 minutes, and then you are ready
to clear coat the black base coat.
3 Apply your Mirraclear (KC-MCLR) clear coat over the black base coat, using steady
even passes. Apply one medium wet coat first, and let that flash for about 5-10
minutes, and then apply a second wet coat.
At this point, you should have a VERY wet glossy reflective black surface. This is a very
important starting place for the application. You should have as close to a black mirror as
possible before proceeding, as seen here…
If you are not achieving a VERY highly glossy black surface, you will need to re-shoot this
until you do.
Repeating steps 1 and 2 until a good gloss is achieved.
Then make sure the clear coat on your black base coat cures for a FULL 24 HOURS. That is
also critical to the application. If the clear coat is not fully cured, this will also dull the finish.
It must be a VERY smooth finish, in order to maximize the reflectivity of the Killer Chrome (in
the next step).
You are now ready to begin chroming your piece.
4 Apply the Killer Chrome (KC-KC101) to your clear coated black base coat, in a VERY
LIGHT DUSTING FASHION, from about 8-10 inches away from the substrate…
continuing to make passes over the surface, and VERY BRISK PASSES, until you
achieve the effect.
Moving your hand too slowly when making your passes will result in a "Stacking" of the metal
particles, and kill the shine when top coated.
Here is the same tank pictured above after applying the Killer Chrome.
If you are getting a flat metal, or flat aluminum look, then the product is almost certainly over
It is very easy to apply too much of the material. This is not uncommon, and can take
PRACTICE. Test panels are encouraged, in order to develop a good “feel” for this dusting
What you are spraying is a hyper-ground metal (near molecular scale!), and you MUST NOT
let this material stack up in any way.
You are not going for a "Coat of Paint" like with a regular liquid pigment. It needs to be dusted
on extremely lightly, and evenly. This will take SEVERAL PASSES. Keep your eye on the
clear coated black as you are making your passes, and when you reach the point that it looks
like the last TINY BIT of black has JUST winked out of sight, stop right there.
Let this dry for 30 minutes or so, and then you take the polishing cloth included in your kit,
and slightly dampen that, and VERY GENTLY wipe down the piece. This will help remove any
metal particles that are "stacked up" on the surface, but not really stuck to anything. The
material is so finely ground (near molecular scale) that you can actually wind up with a fair
amount of this material (depending on how heavily it was sprayed) on the surface, that is not
stuck to the clear coat on the black. It is just sitting there like a "nano-dust". WHEN TOP
Do not apply too much pressure when wiping the killer chrome down, or you may move the
pigment that is STUCK to the clear coat, and that will spoil the finish.
You are now ready to top coat the Killer Chrome.
5 Apply one medium wet coat of the Mirraclear to the chromed piece, from about 6-8
inches away from the surface, in nice even steady passes. Do not over apply this, as it
can dull the finish. One medium wet coat is all you need.
A very small loss (5% or less) of reflectivity is not uncommon when applying the top
coat. If you are experiencing a SUBSTANTIAL LOSS of reflectivity when top coating,
you Killer Chrome is almost certainly OVER APPLIED. This is the single most common
issue when top coating.
As you’re your technique improves for applying the Killer Chrome itself, this will
become easier and easier to avoid.
The Mirraclear should dry to the touch in about 20 minutes and totally cured in 24 hours.
You have now completed the application!
A few suggestions about Mirraclear:
Mirraclear is a 1 component clear coat, and while quite durable, it will not be as durable as a 2
component automotive grade clear coat. Do not clean the Mirraclear clear coat with any
solvent based cleaners, or anything harsh, as that can also dull the finish. Hand polishing is
recommended. No machine polishing.
If an automotive grade finish is required, then after applying the Mirraclear top coat, let that
cure for a full 24 hours, and then you can apply any good automotive grade clear over that.
No need to scuff the Mirraclear first.
If after reading through this application guide, you find you are still having trouble, and require
more assistance, please do not hesitate to contact our technical support staff. They are
available Monday through Thursday, 8am – 4pm, and Fridays, 8am – 12pm. You can reach
us toll free at 1-800-999-4120
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