Part # 11160199 67-69 GM “F” Body Level 1 Air Suspension

Part # 11160199 67-69 GM “F” Body Level 1 Air Suspension
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11160199
67-69 GM “F” Body Level 1 Air Suspension System
Front Components:
1
11161099
Front CoolRide Kit for Stock Lower Arms
1
11160500
Black Series Front Shock Kit w/ Mounts
Rear Components:
1
11167199
Rear AirBar – Bolt-on 4 Link Kit
1
20250701
Black Series Rear Shockwaves
Compressor System:
1
30154000
3 gallon RidePro Compressor Kit (Analog Gauges)
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11161099
67-69 GM “F” Body & 68-74 GM “X” Body Front CoolRide Kit
Components:
2
90006781
Front air spring – 267c
1
90000531
Driver side lower air spring plate
1
90000532
Passenger side lower air spring plate
2
90000528
Upper air spring cup bracket
Hardware:
2
99371001
3/8” x 3/4" USS bolt
Air spring to lower plate
2
99373005
3/8” lock washer
Air spring to lower plate
8
99371004
3/8” x 1 1/4" USS bolt
Air spring plate to lower arm
12
99372002
3/8” USS Nylok
Air spring mounts
22
99373003
3/8” sae washer
Air spring mounts
2
99435002
7/16” x 8” stud
Cup bracket to frame
2
99433002
7/16” SAE flat washer
Cup bracket to frame
2
99432001
7/16” USS Nylok nut
Cup bracket to frame
2
99311004
5/16” x 5 1/2" USS bolt
Sway bar end link
2
99312003
5/16” USS Nylok nut
Sway bar end link
Installation Instructions
******Must be used w/ RideTech shock kit******
1. To allow clearance for the air spring,
aportion of the frame on the outside of
the coil spring pocket must be removed.
This is best done with a die grind & cutoff
wheel or plasma cutter. Cut all corners
round and grind all edges smooth.
Note: It may be helpful to partially install
the air spring assemble to see exactly
what needs cut out.
2. The inner lip of the coil spring pocket
must also be trimmed.
Note: The upper shock mounts must be
installed before install air spring.
Note: To achieve proper sway bar
clearance and the most effective angle,
the sway bar end link spacer must be
shortened to 1.5” long. A shorter bolt is
supplied.
3. Place the lower air spring plate onto
the lower control arm. The place is
contoured to the arm and is self-locating.
Make sure the back of the plate is
square with the arm. Drill the holes one
at a time while securing the plate with
3/8” x 1 1/4" bolts, Nylok nuts and two
flat washers.
Note: This is the driver’s side, the lower
shock mount goes to the rear of the arm.
4. Apply thread sealant to the air fitting
and screw it into the air spring. Place
the cup bracket on top of the air spring
and tighten with two Nylok nuts and flat
washers.
5. Thread the 8” stud into the nut welded
to the bottom of the cup. Place the air
spring assembly in the coil spring pocket
with the stud protruding though the
factory shock hole. It is held tight with a
7/16” Nylok and flat washer.
Note: The airline must also be routed at
this time.
6. Fasten the air spring to the lower
plate using a 3/4" x 3/8” bolt, flat washer
and lock washer.
7. Check air spring clearance
throughout suspension travel. Allowing
the air spring to rub will result in
failure and is not a warrantable
situation.
8. The best ride quality will be achieved
with the air spring between 4.5” & 5” tall.
This usually occurs between 80-100 psi
depending on vehicle weight.
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part #11160500
67-69 Camaro & 68-74 Nova Front CoolRide Kit
Black Series Shock Kit
Components:
1
90000529
Driver side upper shock bracket
1
90000530
Passenger side upper shock bracket
2
20000011
Shock absorbers – Eye/Stud
2
20000011 Hardware kit
2
20000005 Hardware kit
Hardware:
8
99372002
3/8” USS Nylok nut
Upper shock bracket to frame
16
99373003
3/8” SAE washer
Upper shock bracket to frame
8
99371004
3/8” x 1 1/4" USS bolt
Upper shock bracket to frame
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Note: The upper shock bracket must be installed before installing the air spring.
1. Remove the bolt holding the brake
line bracket to the frame.
2. Place the upper shock bracket
against the frame behind the upper arm,
it will index off of the factory brake line
bracket hole. Use the factory bolt to hold
the bracket in place. Proceed to drill the
remaining holes while inserting a 3/8” x 1
¼” bolt after drilling each hole.
3. Reattach the brake line to the new tab
on the shock bracket.
4. Insert the cantilever pin through the
lower shock eye, shock spacer and
shock bracket and tighten with supplied
hardware.
Insert the upper stud through the shock
bracket using the supplied bushing,
washers and nut.
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11167199
67-69 GM “F” Body AirBar
Components:
1
90000527
2
90000534
2
90001624
2
90001617
2
90000144
2
90000524
2
90000523
2
90001001
2
90001029
2
90001584
2
99752004
6
90001942
4
900001090
2
90000526
2
90001844
Upper cradle assembly
Lower axle mounts
Lower billet Shockwave mount
Lower Shockwave stud - .625”
Axle tabs
Axle tabs
Shock block off plate
Upper bars – TW 7.375” (C-C length 9.250”)
Lower bars – WW 24.75”
Threaded rod end – w/ rubber bushing pressed in
¾” SAE jam nut – for rod end
Rubber bushings – pressed into bars & rod end
Poly bushing for lower bar
Inner bushing sleeve – lower bar
Trunk reinforcement plate for sway bar bracket
Hardware Kit # 99010017:
2
1/2” x 1 ¼” SAE Gr. 8 bolt
2
1/2" x 1 ¾” SAE Gr. 8 bolt
4
1/2” SAE Gr. 8 Nylok nut
6
5/8” x 2 3/4" SAE Gr.8 bolt
6
5/8” SAE Gr.8 Nylok jam nut
2
1/2" x 2 ¼ SAE Gr.8 bolt
2
1/2" SAE Gr.8 Nylok jam nut
18
3/8” x 1” Thread forming bolt
18
3/8” SAE flat washer
8
7/16” SAE Nylok nut
2
3/8” x 1 ¼” USS bolt
2
3/8” USS Nylok nut
Billet mount to axle bracket
Billet mount to axle bracket
Billet mount to axle bracket
Bar ends
Bar ends
Upper Shockwave mount
Upper Shockwave mount
Upper cradle assembly
Upper cradle assembly
U bolts for lower axle mount
Trunk reinforcement plate for sway bar bracket
Trunk reinforcement plate for sway bar bracket
1. Raise the vehicle to a safe and comfortable working height. Use jack stands to support the vehicle
with the suspension hanging freely.
2. Support the axle and remove the leaf springs, shocks and tail pipes. Refer to the factory service
manual for proper disassemble procedures. Keep the factory upper shock bolts, bump stop bolts,
U-bolts, and front leaf spring mount and bolts.
3. To allow maximum drop, the factory
pinion snubber must be removed. For a
clean cut use a cut off wheel and smooth
any burrs.
4. Lower the axle enough to slide the
upper cradle into place. On most cars
the location of the cradle will index off of
the factory bump stop bolt hole. If your
car has the bump stop beside the frame,
slide the cradle forward until the front
tube touches the body.
5. A series of self-tapping 3/8” bolts are
used to hold the cradle in place. First
drill the holes with a 5/16” bit and then
thread the bolts into the frame.
Note: Newer cradles will have a sway
bar bracket welded to the upper cradle.
The will attach to the trunk pan with a
3/8” x 1 ¼” bolt and Nylok nut. A
reinforcement plate is supplied to be
installed inside the trunk.
6. Install the large end of the lower bar
(the long one) into the factory spring
mount using the factory hardware. Do
not over tighten this bolt; it should be
snug.
7. This bushing is polyurethane and is
lubricated at the factory with lithium
grease, additional lubrication is not
needed. Future lubrication can be done
using any non-petroleum based
lubricant.
8. Bolt the bar and mount back onto the
car using the factory hardware.
9. The lower axle bracket will be
fastened to the leaf spring pad using the
factory U-bolts. New 7/16” nylocs are
supplied.
10. Bolt the lower Shockwave mount to
the lower holes of the axle bracket if you
have a monoleaf car. If you have a
multileaf car the bottom of the billet
mount will be flush with the axle bracket.
11. Swing the lower bar up to the axle
bracket and insert 5/8” x 2 3/4" bolt.
Thread 5/8” Nylok onto the bolt but do
not tighten yet.
12. This end of the bar as well as the
upper bars are rubber and do not require
lubrication.
13. Check the length of the upper bar; it
should be 9 1/4" C-C. Bolt the axle tabs
to the upper bar as shown in the picture.
Then place the other end into the cradle.
Both ends use a 5/8” x 2 3/4" and should
not be fully tightened yet. For now just
the let axle tabs sit on the axle.
14. Before welding these tabs to the
axle you will need to center the axle and
set pinion angle. We used a plum on the
outside of the quarter panel to center the
axle left to right. Setting the pinion angle
is explained on the next page. This
must be done at ride height.
15. How do you set the
pinion angle? On a singlepiece shaft you want to set it
up where a line drawn through
the center of the engine
crankshaft or output shaft of
the transmission and a line
drawn through the center of
the pinion are parallel to each
other but not the same line.
A simple way to do this is to
place a digital angle finder or
dial level on the front face of
the lower engine pulley or
harmonic balancer. This will
give you a reading that is 90
degrees to the crank or output
shaft unless you have real
problems with your balancer.
At the other end, you can
place the same level or angle
finder against the front face of
the pinion yoke that is also at
90 degrees to the centerline.
If you rotate the yoke up or
down so both angles match,
you have perfect alignment.
Road testing will tell you if
you have it right. If you
accelerate and you get or
increase a vibration, then the
pinion yoke is too HIGH.
Rotate it downward in small
increments of a degree or two
until the problem goes away.
If you get or increase a
vibration when decelerating,
then the pinion yoke is too
LOW. Rotate it upward to
correct it.
16. One helpful trick to help maintain
ride height and pinion angle while
adjusting is to tack weld a spacer
between the axle and the outside of the
frame as shown in the picture. This
spacer should be 8 1/2” tall giving the
Shockwave an eye-to-eye measurement
of 14 1/2" to 15”.
17. After double-checking pinion angle,
ride height, and axle center the tabs can
be tack welded. Remove the bar to
avoid frying the bushing and finish
welding the tabs to the axle.
18. Apply thread sealant to the air fitting
and screw it into the Shockwave.
19. Install the Shockwave or CoilOvers
using the 1/2" x 2 1/4" bolt and Nylok
nut on top and the 7/16” Nylok nut on the
lower stud mount.
20. You can now go back and snug all
of the Nylok nuts. This must be done at
ride height.
21. You can now remove the spacer
from between the axle and frame.
22. We have supplied a plate to cover
the factory shock holes. It will use the
factory hardware.
23. The installation is complete but you
want to check clearance of the brake
lines, parking brake cables, vent tubes
and exhaust. For the exhaust you can
either install a turndown or reroute the
exhaust under the axle. Stainless
Works makes a tail pipe specific for use
with the AirBar. 1-800-878-3635
24. This system is designed to be use
with a Shockwave or CoilOver with a
14.5” ride height.
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Should I weld my AirBar 4 link assembly in?
Since we get this question quite often, it deserves a proper explanation.
The AirBar has been designed for bolt-in installation. We have paid special attention to
interfacing with key structural areas of each vehicle, fastening bracketry in at least two
planes to properly distribute load paths, and to using appropriate fasteners that roll,
rather than cut, threads into the vehicle structure.
Having said that, you could potentially encounter a vehicle that has rust or collision
damage in these areas. Or maybe you intend to consistently place the vehicle in
severe racing applications with sticky racing slicks and high speed corners. In these
cases it is perfectly acceptable to weld the AirBar components into your vehicle. Even
in these severe cases we recommend that you install the entire AirBar assembly first
[including the fasteners], and then use short 1” long tack welds to secure your
installation. Remember that the vehicle structure metal is typically much thinner [.060”.120” ] than the .188” thick AirBar bracktery. If you burn through the vehicle sheetmetal
structure you may end up with an installation that is weaker than before you tried to
weld it.
The other reason to weld in your AirBar assembly is…you simply want to. You’re a
welding kind of guy…that’s the way you’ve always done it…you have the skills and
equipment to do it. In that case…weld away with our blessing!
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
20250701 Black 7000 Series ShockWaves
5” Stroke – .625” Bearing/.625” Bearing
2
20290799
Black 7000 Series rolling sleeve assembly
2
20259999
5” stroke Black Series shock
2
90001087
Internal bump stop
4
90001686
.625” I.D. spherical bearing
4
90001900
Bearing snap ring
2
90001636
Bearing eyelet
2
90000325
Eyelet spacer
2
31954201
¼” npt x ¼” tube swivel elbows
7000 Series Shockwave
Use these
spacers when
mounting on 5/8”
bolt.
Compressed Height
Ride Height
Extended Height
4” Inflated
Diameter
Use these spacers
when mounting on
1/2” bolt.
11.5”
14.5”
16.5”
The care and feeding of your new ShockWaves
1. Although the ShockWave has an internal bumpstop, DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE
DEFLATED RESTING ON THIS BUMPSTOP. DAMAGE WILL RESULT. The internal
bumpstop will be damaged, the shock bushings will be damaged, and the vehicle shock
mounting points may be damaged to the point of failure. This is a non warrantable situation.
2. Do not drive the vehicle overinflated or “topped out”. Over a period of time the shock valving
will be damaged, possibly to the point of failure. This is a non warrantable situation! If you
need to raise your vehicle higher that the ShockWave allows, you will need a longer unit.
3. The ShockWave is designed to give a great ride quality and to raise and lower the vehicle. IT
IS NOT MADE TO HOP OR JUMP! If you want to hop or jump, hydraulics are a better choice.
This abuse will result in bent piston rods, broken shock mounts, and destroyed bushings. This
is a non warrantable situation.
4. Do not let the ShockWave bellows rub on anything. Failure will result. This is a non
warrantable situation.
5. The ShockWave product has been field tested on numerous vehicles as well as subjected to
many different stress tests to ensure that there are no leakage or durability problems. Failures
have been nearly nonexistent unless abused as described above. If the Shockwave units are
installed properly and are not abused, they will last many, many years. ShockWave units
that are returned with broken mounts, bent piston rods, destroyed bumpstops or
bushings, or abrasions on the bellows will not be warrantied.
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 30154000
4000 Series RidePro 4 Way Compressor System
3 Gallon Tank – Analog Gauges
Components:
1
31920002
Thomas 327 Compressor
1
31194000
RidePro 4 Way analog control panel with rocker switches (Black Face)
1
31913100
3 gallon aluminum tank
1
31934001
RidePro 4 Way valve block
1
31980005
Pressure switch – 135 On / 150 Off
Wiring:
1
90001924
Fuse holder
1
90001922
20 Amp fuse
2
31900036
Wiring harness - Control panel to valve
Airline & Fittings:
2
31940002
1/4” DOT airline - 30 ft. roll - valve block to gauges
2
31940000
1/8” DOT airline - 25 ft. roll - valve block to gauges
1
31952150
1/8”npt x 1/4” tube female straight - compressor
1
31957003
2” Brass Nipple - compressor
6
31954201
1/4” npt x 1/4” tube Elbow airline fitting
7
31954000
1/4” npt x 1/4” tube Straight airline fitting
4
31952000
1/8” npt x 1/8” tube Straight fitting - manifold to gauge fitting
1
31957004
1/4” npt plug - plug unused supply port
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
ARC4000 Compressor System Instructions
These are some general guidelines to follow when installing your new RidePro air control system.
Depending on the vehicle there are many different ways to plumb the system. Start out by
planning a lay out of where you want everything to be mounted. Typically we try to keep the
compressor, solenoids, tank, and sending units in a central location, but they can be separated to
suit your needs.
Mounting the Compressor/ Pressure Switch
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Remove the negative battery cable before beginning installation.
All of our compressors are sealed for moisture and dust resistance so they can be mounted
anywhere on the vehicle. Although it is best to mount it in a place out of direct contact with
rain and snow. It is OK to mount it underneath the vehicle but keep it inside the frame rails
away from water and debris thrown off the tire.
This is a dry compressor; therefore it is maintenance free and can be mounted in any
position.
It is best if mounted to something solid to reduce vibration and noise. If mounting it to
sheet metal or the bed of a truck, use sound deadening material between the compressor
and the mounting surface.
Use the rubber grommets supplied on the feet of the compressor to reduce vibration.
A template is supplied to aid in drilling the holes. Check template with compressor before
drilling the holes.
Apply thread sealant to the pressure switch and compressor T and screw into the tank.
One spade of the pressure switch will connect to power the other to the red wire on the
compressor.
Mounting the Air Tank
•
•
•
The air tank can be mounted anywhere on the vehicle in any position.
A template is supplied to aid in drilling the holes. Check the template with the tank before
drilling the holes.
If your air system is used frequently you may want to remove the tank once a season to
drain any excessive accumulation of water.
Mounting the RidePro Air Valves
•
•
•
•
•
•
The valves, like the compressor, are sealed and can be mounted in the same locations.
Although if the vehicle will be exposed to freezing temperatures it is a good idea to mount
them in the engine bay if possible to reduce the possibility of freezing.
They can be mounted in any position.
Mount the valves higher than the tank to avoid moisture build up. This could cause the air
pressure sensors to give a faulty reading.
Attach the ground strap to a good, clean ground (preferably the frame).
The exhaust port will be left open.
The valve is held closed with the pressure in the tank. If tank pressure drops below air
spring pressure they will equalize deflating all 4 air springs.
Wiring Harness
•
•
The red wire on the harness will connect to 12 v.
The gray wire will then supply the gauge light 12v. Or the gauge light can be powered with
illumination.
Routing the Airline and Fittings
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Make all airline cuts with a razor or tubing cutter. It must be clean and straight or it will not
seal.
All fittings are DOT approved push-to-connect style. They are very simple to use and are
reusable. Firmly push the airline into the fitting to attach. To release the airline pull the
collar on the fitting back towards the fitting and pull the airline out.
Use thread sealant on all fittings.
Do not over tighten the fittings. This could result in breaking the fitting or damaging the air
spring.
All of our airlines are DOT approved so they are very strong. But keep them away from
any sharp edges. Also when passing through a hole in the frame use a grommet.
Keep away from intense heat including mufflers and exhaust manifolds.
Use zip ties or other fasteners to secure the airline.
ARC4000
Wiring at control panel:
Gray connects to gauge light
Red connects to “key on” power at fuse box
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