Routing Techniques for DOLLS HOUSE
Routing Techniques for
D O LLS H O U S E
M O U LDI N G S
A 32 page guide to producing dolls house and miniature mouldings
BOOK/DH1
BOOKLET
IN A SERIES
1
INTRODUCTION
One of the most pleasurable aspects to
making your own dolls house is the
fitting of the mouldings in each room.
They must be machined to the correct
proportions and from the right period to
be accurate. Although 1/12th scale premachined mouldings can be purchased
from Dolls House shops and hobby
shops, there are many advantages in
actually producing them yourself.
Often it is difficult when purchasing
mouldings to obtain uniformity as they
can differ from batch to batch. The
shapes of the moulds can be different
and the overall dimensions of the
purchased mouldings can be out of
proportion or even oversize.
The price of these pre-machined
mouldings can also prove to be quite
expensive, especially when buying
skirting and cornice mouldings as long
lengths are usually required.
All the proportions of 1/12th scale
mouldings must be an accurate scaled
down version of those found in full size
building joinery.
The ideal means of obtaining the correct
size moulding is, therefore to make your
own. There is of course also a sense of
achievement from machining the moulds
yourself from start to finish and, added
to this, your dolls house project can be
completed to your own unique
specification.
ABOUT THE 12 PIECE SET
They can also be used for the
construction of other parts of the dolls
house such as the wall and roofing
components.
The dolls house cutters in the set are all
tungsten carbide tipped. Tungsten
carbide is a hard, wear-resistant metal
that gives long cutting edge life and will
give a clean cut on the timbers used in
scale moulding manufacture.
Nine of the cutters in the set are
specifically designed to carry out the
making of mouldings. The three straight
cutters can be used for rebating,
grooving and slotting these mouldings.
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The moulding cutters allow the dolls
house maker and miniaturist to run
whatever length of moulding is required.
If a small length of mould is kept on file,
the router can be set against the sample,
to enable further lengths to be machined
to replicate the original. These later
lengths of mould will be the same as the
earlier lengths, so ensuring uniformity.
Using standard hand routers one can
machine virtually all types of scale
moulds, including stair handrails,
skirting, cornice, coves, architraves,
capping, and stair tread nosings. They
can be used for different styles, including
Victorian and Georgian periods. By using
certain parts of the shapes in conjunction
with others, unique moulds can be
achieved. Numerous variations of
2
moulding, even more than those shown
in this booklet, can be produced.
The timber used for the mouldings is in
imperial sizes. The chart below can be
used to convert them to metric
equivalents.
Imperial
Metric
1/16”
5/64”
3/32”
7/64”
1/8”
9/64”
5/32”
11/64”
3/16”
13/64”
7/32”
15/64”
1/4”
5/16”
3/8”
7/16”
1/2”
9/16”
5/8”
11/16”
3/4”
1.6mm
2.0mm
2.4mm
2.8mm
3.2mm
3.6mm
4.0mm
4.4mm
4.8mm
5.2mm
5.5mm
6.0mm
6.35mm
8.0mm
9.5mm
11.0mm
12.7mm
14.3mm
15.9mm
17.5mm
19.1mm
ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS
What else do you need?
The router
The dolls house cutters have either 1/4”
(6.35mm) diameter shanks or 8mm
shank diameters and can be fitted to light
duty routers, such as the Bosch
POF500A and Black & Decker BD780. A
variable speed facility on the router is not
necessary for producing dolls house
mouldings. The small diameters of the
cutters allow spindle speeds up to
27,000 RPM to be used.
More professional routers such as the
Trend T5 can also be used. These have
the benefit of more power, and the
availability of a fine height adjuster.
The most important factor is that of
power. Your router must have a power
rating of at least 500 watts to achieve the
best results. Small handheld types of
grinders or drilling units such as the
Dremel® or Minicraft® are not suitable
for use with this set.
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The table
Because of the extreme accuracy that
must be achieved and the small nature of
the timber being machined, the router
must be used fitted inverted into a router
table. The dolls house router cutters are
unguided (i.e. they are not fitted with a
guide bearing) and therefore the material
must be guided to engage the cutter by a
straight line guide or back fence. Other
additional guiding mechanisms which
will be described later, may also be used
to machine the timber accurately and
safely.
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ROUTER
2 THE
TABLE
o actually cut the moulds the router
must be fitted inverted in a router
table. Proprietary tables are readily
available, but a home-made table can be
constructed to suit your own
requirements.
T
CRAFTSMAN
ROUTER TABLE
The Trend Craftsman Router Table
is a general purpose router table which
can be fitted with the necessary homemade adaptations for machining dolls
house mouldings.
It should be fitted with a false table top so
that the aperture through which the cutter
projects, will be as small as possible.
By fitting a false top, guards and other
devices can be easily screwed to it. The
false top can be constructed from 6 or
9mm MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard)
or plywood, and should be slightly larger
than the alloy table itself.
The false top should be drilled out to
match the fixing holes in the Craftsman
table surface. The false top can be
screwed to or held by battens onto the
alloy table top of the table.
The back fence can also be used if a false
cheek is fitted to it. This cheek will need
a small aperture cut into it. The false
cheek can again be constructed from
MDF and can be screwed or clamped to
the existing back fence.
Timber feed direction
Back fence
Side view
Pressure down
Timber
Pressure
Side fence
sideways
End view
Cutter rotation
Side fence
A Home-made router table can be
made very simply from MDF or other flat
stable material.
Timber feed direction
Side Pressure
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Plan view
ROUTER TABLE CONSTRUCTION
A home-made dolls house router table is
simple to make, even with only limited
woodworking skills. It is made of easily
available MDF or from plywood and uses
fittings from the Trend range of routing
jig accessories. (Please see the current
Trend Routing Catalogue).
INSTRUCTIONS
The low fence fitted to the table is again
cut from MDF and slotted to allow
adjustment of the cutting width. It is
fitted with a dust extraction hood (Trend
Part No. RR72). This also acts as a back
guard to prevent accidental contact with
the cutter. We strongly
recommended that this
or a similar guard
is fitted.
2.
1.
3.
Cut the 4 leg pieces to size from
15mm thick MDF and glue each pair
together with PVA adhesive. When
dry, plane both to the same size and
square, and chamfer the vertical
edges.
Cut the base from 15mm MDF and
plane the edges square.
Cut the Table top from 12mm MDF
and square the edges.
5
4.
5.
Mark the centre point of the top and
neatly drill a 25mm diameter hole.
Using a paper template (or if
possible use the removable facing
from the base of the router), mark
the position of any suitable fixing
holes in the router baseplate,
centred around the 25mm hole.
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6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Drill and counterbore holes to take
suitable fixing bolts.
Drill and counter sink the fixing
holes to take the No.10 x 1 1/4”
chipboard screws.
Cut the under rail from 15mm
MDF.
Assemble the table by screwing
and gluing each joint and
checking that all is square before
leaving to dry.
Cut the table fence from 12mm
MDF and trim the edges square.
11.
12.
Cut the two slots using a 1/4”
diameter straight cutter and
setting the router’s side-fence to
run against each end of the MDF
in turn. A 1/4” diameter straight
cutter can be obtained from the
Trend Routing Catalogue or is
available in the Set SS3. Please
see inside the back cover of this
booklet.
Position the fence on the table
and mark the centre of the lobe
knob holes.
6
13.
14.
15.
Drill the appropriate diameter
holes through the top and insert
the pronged tee-nuts.
Mark and cut the semi-circular
cutter recess along the fence edge
to match with the hole through
the top.
Screw the guard/dust extraction
port to the top face of the fence.
Materials Cutting List (all in mm)
Description
7
Size
Qty
Base board ......................300 x 475 x 15
1
Legs ................................220 X 275 x 15
4
Top ..................................300 x 500 x 12
1
Fence...............................100 x 500 x 12
1
Under rail ........................38 x 335 x 15
1
Guard/dust spout ............(Trend no RR72)
1
Pronged Tee-nuts ............M6
2
Lobe Knobs .....................M6
2
Washers ..........................6mm
2
Chipboard screws............No.10 x 1 1/4”
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Special Notes
Table size
The table surface area can be made to
any suitable size, but should be large
enough to allow ease of operation.
Table Thickness
The recommended thickness of the
machine table is 12mm. This thin table
top allows maximum projection
of the tool above the table. The 12mm
table top can be reinforced with a
stretcher underneath to prevent
sag. As only light routers are
needed for dolls house work their
weight is not too great to allow a thin
top to be used. If a heavier router is to
be used, then the table will need to be
thicker, i.e. 18mm MDF or other suitable
material. The table will then need to have
a thinner plate recessed into it from
which the machine can be secured.
Central aperture
The aperture through which the cutter
will protrude should be as small as
possible. The hole should only be about
3mm larger than the tool diameter. In
the case of the home-made table, the
hole is made to suit the largest dolls
house cutter in the set, and should
therefore be about 25mm in diameter. A
false table fitted to the top of the machine
table with a smaller diameter hole can
always be fitted
Gap min. 1.5mm
Gap min. 1.5mm
when using the
smaller diameter
cutters.
Table
Aperture
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This thinner plate can be made from
metal.
The metal insert plate that fits into the
Craftsman Router Table is available as an
accessory and can be used for this
purpose. The plate is available with
different pre-drilled countersunk holes for
the most popular makes of router.
Please refer to the latest Trend
Routing Catalogue.
Fitting the router
Two counter-bored holes are used for
this purpose. These holes are oversize,
so that the pan head machine screws that
thread into the base of the router, can be
moved in the counter-bored holes to
allow exact centring. For instance, the
Trend T5 has two M6 threaded holed in
its base (which are used to secure to jigs
etc.) and therefore the counter-bored
hole should be 12.7mm (1/2”) in
diameter and the through hole should be
6.35mm (1/4”) to 7mm in diameter.
Back fence
The back fence must be planed square
and true. The fence has two slots routed
into it, enabling it to be secured to the
table top. The table top has two pronged
tee nuts fitted to its underside. These
pronged tee nuts have an internal thread
size of M6, which is the same as the
threads on most knobs on routers for
fixing of the side fence and guide rails.
These now redundant knobs can be used
to secure the back fence to the table.
The slots on the back fence have to be
rebated to allow the knobs to tighten
properly in the tee-nuts.
Back fence aperture
This allows the cutter to project through
the back fence. This aperture must not
be too wide, (here suggested of equal
diameter to the hole in the table). This is
to allow all parts of the tooling to be
used, enabling different moulds to be
machined.
Counter-bored holes
allow exact alignment
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With the machined component having a
maximum height of 5/8” it is therefore
necessary to have a back fence of 12mm
MDF. The fence could be fitted on the
back edge with a higher batten for thicker
work, such as higher skirtings etc. This
high batten will also need an aperture
machined in it to accept the cutter. This
would make the fence reversible.
Depending on which size of component
is being machined, the higher fence can
be used for thick stock and the thin fence
for narrow stock.
Dust Extraction
The back fence can be fitted with a dust
spout so that a dust extractor can be
fitted. This shroud can be taken from a
spare proprietary back fence or
purchased separately. The shroud not
only allows extraction of the wood waste
but also protects the back of the cutter.
Two holes in the face of the shroud also
allow a user-made chip deflector to be
fitted. It is always advisable that a dust
extractor is used when routing to remove
the wood chips and dust at source. A
hose can be attached at one end to the
dust extractor and the other end can be
fitted into a dust spout fitted to the backfence of the table.
Pressure Guards
The back fence and machine table give
the component being machined a good
supporting area, but top and side
pressures are also necessary to stop the
material lifting or being pushed away
from the cutter. These pressure guards
will also make it safer to rout the
material, as the operator’s hands are kept
well away from the rotating tool.
Various pressure fences can be used,
these include spring loaded blocks, finger
pressures (shown above) and concertina
type pressure guards. When possible it
is advisable to use thin material for the
pressure guards for dolls house
mouldings such as 12mm MDF. A rebate
may need to be cut on the edge that
would abut the component, to allow
access with a push stick.
Feed
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Push Stick & Push Block
A push stick and push block are also
advisable to help guide the material being
moulded. The push stick should be at
least 350mm long and can have a ‘bird’smouth’ shape cut-out on one end. This
end should also be cut with a taper to
make the ‘bird’s mouth’ narrower to allow
greater access between the pressure
guards. The push stick is used on very
small components to push the
component past the cutter and therefore
to keep the operators hands well away
from the cutter.
A push block is a device which also can
be used to hold small components to
ensure stability and safety when routing.
A cross cutting jig is used to rout across
the grain. The jig has a batten on it, that
is square to one edge, and this acts as a
support when cutting across the ends of
narrow components.
No-Volt Release Switch
The router table should be fitted with a
No-Volt Release Switch (NVRS) this can
be secured to the leg or workboard to
provide easy access to the on/off
buttons. Should the power supply to the
router be turned off at source, the router
will not re-start until the green button is
pressed. This NVRS is available as an
accessory, Trend ref. E35146 (230V).
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Fine Height Adjuster
The routers used should ideally have a
fine height adjuster fitted (for Elu MOF96,
Trend ref. E40906) which would fit in
place of the depth stop flag on the router.
This fine adjuster allows the router cutter
to be set at the correct height for the
mould. By turning the fine height
adjuster one way or the other the cutter
will be raised or lowered. A fine height
adjuster is essential for any router that is
used inverted in a table.
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3
ROUTING
TECHNIQUES
Choice of Timbers
Moulding the timber
The choice of timbers should be ideally a
hardwood which is straight, close
grained and does not tear when
machined. Suitable timbers include
Lime, Brazilian Mahogany, Obeche,
Jellutong and Ramin. Beech can also be
used but when machined to small sizes
the surface can give a pitted effect.
The mould can then be routed on one
edge only, usually the full mould is
created in one pass, as it is not normally
necessary to take many shallow passes
due to the very small nature of the cut. If
the moulded edge has feathered slightly
(this is dependent on the timber used)
the mould can be passed through the
cutter again. The correct sequence
is needed to ensure a good mould is
obtained. There are four different
methods for machining mouldings.
These are as follows:
Preparing the timber
The easiest way to mould the timber is to
first plane it with square sides by hand or
machine. The timber should be machined
in thickness to suit the particular type of
moulding required, i.e. 5/8” or 3/4” for
the height of skirting, 3/16” for architrave
height and so on. The timber should be
kept as wide as possible to give good
support when machining.
Split after mould
Top pressure
Side pressure
12
DH/08
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Method 1
The moulding is first machined onto the
edge of a wide piece of timber. The
moulded edge is then parted from the
timber on a small diameter saw bench.
The sawn edge on the moulding should
be quite clean providing a fine tooth
parting blade is used. The edge can then
be planed true and the operation repeated
until the timber is too narrow to hold
properly. This method ensures that the
timber is supported properly on all cuts
and that it is less lightly to twist whilst
routing.
Method 2
The timber is first parted to the correct
thickness on a saw bench. Each strip is
then moulded.
The timber must be planed to the correct
height for the mould required before
parting. The thin stock must then be
cleaned up. Several lengths of stock can
be parted in one session. Due to the
very thin nature of the material the side
pressure fence must be set very
accurately when moulding so as to
prevent material tilt. Flexing and
fracturing of the strip could also occur,
so ensure a slow constant feed rate is
maintained.
Method 3
As method 2, but square or rectangular
prepared sectioned timber is purchased
already to size. These are then moulded.
Method 4
An alternative method to 2 and 3 is to fix
the thin sections of timber to a larger
piece of material, such as a straight
section of MDF. This can be achieved
using double-sided tape, which will
ensure the moulded section can be
removed afterwards. This method is
especially useful for very awkward strips,
which would otherwise twist or vibrate
when being routed.
Top pressure
Part before mould
Straight section of MDF
Side pressure
DH/08
DH/08
13
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Routing procedure
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
The height of the cutter is set so
that the relevant parts of the tool
that create the mould required are
correct.
Set the back-fence to ensure the
correct depth of mould into the
timber will result.
Adjust the top pressure guard until
it touches the top of the blank
material to be cut.
Clamp in position. Repeat for the
side pressure guard.
Switch the router on and test the
mould on a waste piece of timber.
When routing use the push stick to
help move the blank material
towards the cutter. Keep the feed
rate constant.
Mould the timber along its whole
length. When the moulding is
complete switch off the router.
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Square sectioned moulds
Some mouldings such as handrails must
be cut with the timber having been
machined to its finished size prior to it’s
moulding i.e. 1/4” square for a handrail.
A moulding of this size is more difficult
to machine due to its very small nature,
which can tend to twist, and vibrate. By
using side pressure guards and a saddle
(a material support made from an offcut)
on the outfeed side of the machine table,
these difficulties can be overcome.
Setting up for skirting
boards
Skirting boards are the easiest moulds to
rout. The simplest method is to cut the
mould on a wider piece of timber and
then part it afterwards. The timber is
prepared to the correct thickness such as
3/4” high for tall skirting or 5/8” for
smaller skirting. Pre-parting the timber
and cutting the mould on the thin strip
can also be done in the same way but
extra time and care will be needed to
14
ensure that the thin strip does not flex or
tilt whilst the mould is cut.
Architrave
The simplest method is to cut the mould
on a wider piece of timber and then part
it afterwards. The timber is prepared to
the correct thickness for architrave such
as 1/4”.
Handrails
Furniture moulds
Cornice moulds
For handrails the timber is prepared to
the correct dimension such as 5/16” x
1/4”. Machine the first edge, and then
turn the material, so that the mould can
be repeated on the opposite side.
Once the edge moulds are complete the
groove on the underside of the handrail
to accept the stair spindles (or balusters)
can be routed.
Fit the 1/8” diameter two flute cutter Ref.
DH/03 into the table. Set the height of
the tool to the depth of cut required.
Reset the back fence so that the groove
is central to the hand rail. Set the top
and side pressures as normal, rout the
groove in two passes, to remove any
wood chips caught in the groove and to
give a cleaner cut.
For panels, table tops and shelves of
cabinets etc, the timber is prepared to
the correct thickness and dimension. Set
the cutter height and back fence to the
correct position. The panels are routed
across the grain (short grain) first, then
the mould is routed along the grain. If a
deeper mould is required reposition the
cutter height or fence. Alternatively a
different part of the cutter or a different
cutter can be used to build up the mould.
When cutting across the grain due to the
very small nature of the components, it
may be necessary to hold the component
in a jig to ensure it remains at 90° to the
cutter. This jig can be made of MDF and
have a batten secured at 90° to its edge
adjacent to the back fence, to act as a
guide to keep the component in the
correct position.
The timber is prepared to the correct
dimensions such as 3/8” thick. The
operation is similar to that for cutting
skirting boards. A mould should be cut
on a wide piece first and then parted
afterwards. Due to the general size of
cornice moulds it may be necessary to
take two passes by varying the backfence positions to achieve the mould.
For softer timbers, the mould can be
machined in one pass. If it is necessary
to cut the cornice on a square piece of
timber the same method as cutting a
handrail can be used. However as a
large portion of the material is removed,
a support or saddle may be required on
the outfeed side of the table to prevent
the material from tilting.
Top pressure
Side pressure
Top pressure
Side pressure
DH/09
DH/11
DH/07
15
Door and fireplace
surrounds
The simplest method for door and
fireplace surrounds is to cut the mould
on a wider piece of timber and then part
it afterwards. The timber is prepared to
the correct thickness suitable for the
surround.
Some door surrounds have a series of
parallel grooves running along the full
length. These can be achieved by setting
the height for one groove, machine along
its length. Turn the material over and
machine the second groove. The last
groove in the middle of the surround can
be routed by resetting the height of the
cutter until in is in the centre of the
timber section.
Top pressure
Picture frames and mirror
Grooving and rebating
The simplest method for most shapes, is
to cut the mould on a wider piece of
timber and then part it afterwards. The
timber is prepared to the correct
thickness for framing and routed using
the same methods as cutting architrave.
To rebate the back of the frame, fit the
two flute straight cutter ref. DH/03 into
the table and set the height to give the
correct height of rebate. Position the
fence so that the correct depth of rebate
is obtained. The timber will become very
narrow and quite weak, so fit the top and
side pressure clamps to securely hold the
material being routed. The mould is then
parted from the core material on a saw
bench.
Rebates and grooves can be routed using
the straight fluted cutters. The smallest
diameter cutters must be used with great
care as they can be broken easily if too
deep a cut in one pass is made. For
rebates, it is advisable to use the larger
diameter two flute cutter ref. DH/03.
Even larger diameter straight cutters are
available. These can be purchased
separately, such as Trend refs.
C006x1/4TC which has a 6.3mm (1/4”)
diameter or C013x1/4TC (9.5mm or 3/8”
diameter). For both grooves and rebates
the cutter is fitted into the table and the
height of the tool is set. Once the height
is set, position the fence so that the
correct depth of rebate is obtained.
Top pressure
Top pressure
Side pressure
Side pressure
DH/03
DH/03
DH/04
16
Finishing
The moulds can be cleaned up with fine
wire wool. Rough sawn edges can be
cleaned up with fine grades of abrasive
paper glued to a flat board, or by using a
hand plane.
The mouldings can be stained, painted,
oiled or left uncoated.
Guide bushes and
templates
With the router used portably, a guide
bush can be fitted and used in
conjunction with a template. It enables
the router to be guided around the edge
of a pre-cut template or along a slot of
similar width as the guide bush diameter.
The guide bush itself, is fitted flush into
the base of the router, and has a short
flange concentric to the cutter. This
flange is run against the edge of the
template or guide. When routing, follow
the normal feed direction (i.e. against the
rotation of the cutter), depending on
whether it is an internal or external
template. Keep the flange tight against
the template and do not lift the router as
the cutter will damage the template edge.
The cutter will always leave rounded
corners. These can be trimmed square
with a sharp chisel.
The template can be made from 6mm
plywood or MDF. The use of thin
material allows ease of shaping and
finishing.
When drawing out the template shape,
remember that the difference between the
cutter and outside guide bush diameter
needs to be allowed for. This margin (E)
is calculated by deducting the cutter
diameter (d) from the guide bush
diameter (D) and dividing the remainder
by two. For external templates deduct
this amount from each edge of the
template or guide, or for internal
templates add this amount to each edge.
Guide Bush
fitted to router
Template
E
d
D
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Walls and window
apertures
Templates can be made that allow the
router to rout out the window apertures
and doorways, as well as cutting the
outer edges of walls and roof sections
The straight two flute cutter Ref. DH/03
used in conjunction with a guide bush
will enable the shape of a template to be
followed on thin material, no more than
6.35 (1/4”) thick. Several passes must
be made. For normal thickness walls
(i.e. 3/8” ply or MDF) a straight cutter
must be purchased separately, with a
larger diameter and longer cut length,
e.g. C013x1/4TC. The machined edges
will only require minimal cleaning up
with abrasive paper. Choose a guide
bush diameter that will leave at least
2mm clearance between the cutter and
inside edge of the guide bush ring, to
allow waste to clear easily.
Alternatively a bearing guided trimmer
cutter can be purchased, this will enable
the template to be made the same size as
the finished product. This cutter is
available separately in the Trend Craft
Range or is included in the 12 piece
Starter Set ref. SET/SS3. See inside back
cover for details.
Recessing hinges for dolls
house fronts
the template to size allowing for the
guide bush margin. Pin a clamping block
to the template edge or simply clamp the
template in position over the work.
Square the routed corners of the recess.
Joining walls and roofs
A guide bush can also be used for cutting
grooves to form joints between walls. This
is carried out using a ‘Tee square’ with a
slot, the same diameter as the outside
guide bush diameter, cut along the blade of
the square. Edge joints are best formed by
cutting a rebate, either using a self-guiding
rebate cutter, or a straight cutter held in a
table-mounted router.
A simple template cut from thin plywood
can be used for recessing hinges. Cut
Template
Simple templates for door
and window apertures
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18
4 CUTTER SELECTION
Rebates
DH/01
DH/02
DH/03
STRAIGHT CUTTERS
5.0
1.6
8.0
5.0
2.0
Sash rails and
stiles
Sliding box sash
frame casing
3.2
All dimensions in mm
Fence
Fence
Thin false table
Thin false table
Table
Table
19
D
VICTORIAN BULL NOSE
DH/04
Architrave
Skirting
1.0
7.0
12.7
Door surround
Fence
Table
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20
Dado
Dado
Skirting
Architrave
Picture rail
Picture frame
DH/05
TORUS BEAD
1.0
9.5
12.7
Fence
Table
21
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MULTI-MOULD
DH/06
Bead
Bead
13.0
3.5
22.0
Fence
Bead
Table
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22
Cornice
Coving
Cornice
Cornice
Skirting
Ovolo mould
Architrave
Picture Frame
23
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Nosings
Nosings
DH/07
MODERN TORUS
Nosings
7.5
1.6
45°
12.7
Skirting
Fence
Table
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24
Handrail
Beading
Beading
Skirting
Skirting
Dado
Picture frame
DH/08
DOUBLE BEAD
5.5
0.8
12.7
Fence
Table
25
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OGEE CLASSIC
DH/09
Cornice
Cornice
2.0
10.0
2.0
22.0
Fence
Cornice
Table
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26
BEAD OGEE
Architrave
Skirting
Skirting
DH/10
Door Surround
45°
5.1
12.7
Fence
Table
27
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Dado
Shelf
Shelf
Picture Frame
DH/11
TRIPLE CLASSIC
OVOLO
8.3
2.0
1.5
1.0
15.9
Cabinet/Table
Fence
Table
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28
Nosings &
Beadings
DH/12
TRIPLE BEAD
1.5
15.2
1.0
0.75
15.0
Fence
Table
29
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5
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
THE A-Z OF SAFETY
ALWAYS use the router and other power tools in a safe
manner and away from children.
BEWARE of unsafe working practices and potential hazards
when using a router.
CLOTHING such as ties or loose or baggy garments, which
may be accidentally caught and pulled into the cutter
should not be worn or should be tied back when using a
router.
DUST presents a severe health risk if inhaled. Always wear
a dust protector and/or use a vacuum extractor connected
directly to the router.
EYE protection must also be worn to protect the operator
from ejected waste particles.
EAR protection should also be worn, when routing for long
periods of time.
FEED direction of the cutter into the workpiece or the
workpiece into the cutter should be against the rotation of
the cutter.
GUARDS should always be used when using a router
mounted in a table. Always ensure that your fingers cannot
make contact with the cutter. Always use a push stick
trend routing technology
H
I
J
K
L
M
30
together with hold down clamps when machining small
timber sections when the router is mounted in a table.
HURRIED setting up and routing can lead to accidents.
Take your time to prepare yourself and the machine. Carry
out safety checks before switching on.
INSPECT the condition of the router cutter before use.
Ensure that the cutter is held firmly in the collet, rotates
freely and is well away from the work before the power is
switched on.
JUDGE the correct feed speed by listening to the tone of the
router.
KEEP router cutters sharp. Take care when handling them
especially when removing them from the collet or from a
storage block.
LISTENING to the sound of the router will often indicate
that the cut is being made too deep or that the cutter is
blunt.
MANUALS and other information supplied with the router
or cutters should be read thoroughly to ensure you are
familiar with the controls, functions, and operating
procedures.
N
O
P
Q
R
S
T
U
NEVER leave the router running unattended. Wait until the
router comes to a complete stop and switch off at the wall
plug before making adjustments, changing the cutter or
operating the spindle lock.
OBSTRUCTIONS should be kept clear of the path of the
router and the routing area. Do not clear swarf or other
debris away from the cutting area with the machine still
running.
POWER to the router must always be switched off and the
machine isolated from the supply before changing cutters
or making adjustments. Make sure the power switch is
‘Off’, before plugging in, to avoid accidental starting.
QUESTIONS regarding the safe operation of your router can
be answered, by Trend’s Technical Department. The
address and phone/fax numbers can be found at the end of
this publication.
ROUTERS must be allowed to reach their full running speed
before commencing any routing operation. Do not switch
the router on with the cutter touching the workpiece.
SHORT-CUTS must not be taken to the detriment of safe
working practice.
TIDY work areas and benches help to prevent accidents.
Always keep the floor around the work area clear of all
obstacles. Store router on a shelf, in a cupboard or in a
storage box, so chips and nails cannot fall into the air
intake.
V
W
X
Y
Z
31
UNDERSTANDING the current statutory woodworking
regulations (such as the ‘Supply of Machinery (Safety)
regulations 1992’ and ‘The Provision and Use of Work
Equipment Regulations 1992’ and any amendments) is
essential for all professional router users.
NO-VOLT release switches should be fitted to all table
mounted routers, both to isolate the router in an emergency
and to prevent it switching back on when power is restored
after a power failure or supply disconnection.
WORKPIECES must always be securely and safely clamped
to the work bench, in a vice or by some other means prior
to commencing the routing operation. Do make sure that
any clamps are not within the path of the router.
EXAMINE the cutters and router collet before use. Equally
check that any knobs or screws on the router are tight and
have not vibrated loose.
YOUR safety when routing is more important than the
router or its cutters.
ZERO accidents should be the first consideration when
using routers and other power tools.
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6
CUTTER & COLLET CARE
It is essential to regularly maintain your
cutters and collets in order to keep them
in a safe and usable condition.
It will also help to maintain the life of
your router by keeping the loads imposed
upon it to a minimum.
When honing your router cutters, apply
light even pressure, and use an equal
number of strokes on each cutting face.
Keeping your cutters sharp is a very
simple operation requiring little skill and
remembering a few basic rules.
Brass brushes should be used to remove
deposits from the inside of the collet.
Clean all resin deposits from the cutter
with Resincleaner® solvent or by scraping
with a piece of stiff plastic before
applying a dry lubricant spray such as
Trendicote.
Use a diamond sharpening stone to
regularly hone your cutters, but only ever
hone a router cutter on the flat face of
the cutting edge.
Regular application of a dry lubricant
spray will prevent resin build up.
32
Rustbuster® is used to lubricate the
pillars of the router & to prevent surface
corrosion.
12 PIECE STARTER SET
An ideal first purchase with your
router. A wooden box containing 12
essential cutters for your basic projects.
Router cutters are tungsten carbide tipped.
Suitable for grooving, profiling
& moulding softwoods, hardwoods, MDF & plywood.
Sets are available with 1/4” or
8mm shanks.
•
•
•
CUTTER & COLLET CARE KIT
This kit contains all the essential accessories to maximise the life of your cutters, collets and router.
The kit comprises:
A DMT mini-diamond sharpening
stone and water bottle.
Rustbuster® anti-corrosion agent
spray.
Trendicote® PTFE dry lubricant
spray.
Four sizes of brass brushes for cleaning collets.
•
•
•
•
Order Ref: CCC/KIT
Order Ref: SET/SS3
SIX PIECE CUTTER SET
Developed from the highly successful SS3 set this economical set contains six popular TCT cutters supplied in a wooden box.
Set comprises a 45° V-groove,
a bearing guided ogee, two
straights and two bearing
guided rounding over cutters.
Sets are available with 1/4” or
8mm shanks.
•
•
Order Ref: SET/SS7
These products are available from your local Trend stockist.
4 PIECE CUTTER SET
A set of four TCT cutters aimed st those
new to routing is now available.
10mm straight flute cutter.
60° V-groove cutter.
8mm bearing guided rounding over
cutter.
12.7mm decorative panelling cutter.
Sets are available with 1/4” or 8mm
shanks.
•
•
•
•
•
Order Ref: SET/SS6
BOOK/DH v2.0
12 PIECE CUTTER SET FOR
DOLLS HOUSES
This range of miniature cutters is designed to
suit dolls house requirements at 1:12 scale and
for all types of miniature or small scale work
supplied in a wooden box.
•
•
Router Cutters are TCT & 1:12 scale.
Sets are available with 1/4” or 8mm shanks.
Order Ref: SET/DH1
TREND
BOOK/DH1
Available from your local Trend stockist.
Trend Machinery & Cutting Tools Ltd
Watford England
Literature Hotline: 0800 4 TREND (0800 487363)
Technical: 01923 224681
Fax: 01923 236879
Email: [email protected]
WWW: http://www.trendm.co.uk
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