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Cabinet Installation Guide
IMPORTANT: To reduce the risk of serious or fatal
injury, read and understand this entire
guide before beginning any installation.
©2012 American Woodmark Corporation Printed in U.S.A. 12/12 XO999040 GEN96272
A Brand New Kitchen?
Better Start Collecting
Some Takeout Menus!
So you’ve finally decided to do it—install your own kitchen
cabinets. Are you starting to have second thoughts? Don’t worry,
that’s only normal. After all, your house will be disrupted for some
time. How long? Depends on how well you have prepared.
You may even ask yourself, “Is it worth the hassle?” Those who
have gone through it will tell you, “Absolutely!” A new kitchen or
bath can likely add to the beauty, livability and value of your home.
So here is our guide to help get you from point A to point B with
less disruption to your home.
General Safety Warnings
WARNING
TO REDUCE THE RISK OF DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY, READ
AND HEED ALL WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS.
Use safety precautions at all times. Maintain a
clean, well-organized workspace. Wear safety
goggles that comply with ANSI Z87.1 and all
protective equipment recommended by the
manufacturers of the tools you will be using.
ONLY ATTACH CABINETS TO CENTER OF WALL STUDS
ACCORDING TO INSTRUCTIONS.
THIS INSTALLATION GUIDE APPLIES TO ONLY WOOD
STUD CONSTRUCTION. IF YOU ARE SECURING CABINETS
TO ANOTHER MATERIAL, CONSULT AN INSTALLATION
PROFESSIONAL TO IDENTIFY THE PROPER FASTENERS.
NEVER USE NAILS or drywall screws TO INSTALL
CABINETS BECAUSE DOING SO MAY DAMAGE CABINETS OR
FAIL TO PROPERLY SECURE THEM WHICH MAY RESULT IN
DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY.
2
Contents
General Safety Warnings����������������������������������������������������������������2
Preparation....................................................................................3
Preparing Walls and Floors������������������������������������������������������������3
Suggested Tool and Material List����������������������������������������������������4
Prepare Wall & Corner Wall Cabinets����������������������������������������������5
Hang the Wall Cabinets One at a Time�������������������������������������������7
Install Fillers (where applicable)�����������������������������������������������������8
Install End Panels (where applicable)����������������������������������������������9
Install Base Cabinets.......................................................................9
Install Moldings (if applicable)�����������������������������������������������������11
Final Assembly and Cleanup��������������������������������������������������������13
Door Hinge Adjustment................................................................14
Drawer Head Adjustment..............................................................14
Drawer Installation.......................................................................15
Drawer Glide Adjustments�����������������������������������������������������������15
Drawer Removal...........................................................................16
Care and Cleaning........................................................................16
Okay, now for the stuff we have to tell you up front. Just keep
in mind, if you choose to install the cabinets yourself, we really
have no control over the installation—so you take on the full
responsibility and liability for getting things done correctly and
safely.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS – LIABILITY DISCLAIMER
When you use these instructions, you are consenting to be bound
by the provisions in this paragraph. These instructions provide an
illustrative method for installing American Woodmark Corporation
(“AWC”) cabinets. AWC’s instructions are not intended to address
every possible contingency that might be encountered during
installation or to endorse the use of any particular tools.
DISCLAIMER: AWC HAS DILIGENTLY TRIED TO ILLUSTRATE
AND DESCRIBE THE INSTALLATION OF THE PRODUCTS IN THIS
LITERATURE CLEARLY AND ACCURATELY; HOWEVER, SUCH
ILLUSTRATIONS AND DESCRIPTIONS DO NOT EXPRESS OR IMPLY A
WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO ANY
WARRANTY THAT THE PURCHASER WILL BE ABLE TO OBTAIN A
PARTICULAR RESULT, OR THAT THE PRODUCTS OR INSTRUCTIONS
ARE MERCHANTABLE, OR FIT FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, OR
THAT THE INSTALLED PRODUCTS WILL NECESSARILY CONFORM
TO THE ILLUSTRATIONS OR DESCRIPTIONS OR DIMENSIONS.
THESE INSTRUCTIONS DO NOT ENLARGE OR OTHERWISE MODIFY
THE LIMITED WARRANTY RECEIVED WHEN YOU PURCHASED
YOUR CABINETS, IF ANY. AWC HEREBY EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS
ALL WARRANTIES AND ALL LIABILITY FOR ANY CLAIMS FOR
INJURY OR DEATH RELATED TO OR BASED UPON THE USE OF
THESE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS AND ANY INSTALLATION
INSTRUCTIONS OTHERWISE PROVIDED BY AWC. AWC IS NOT
RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INACCURACIES, OMISSIONS OR TYPOS IN
THIS GUIDE.
The Secret is the Preparation
Before You Get Started…
If you’re planning to do it yourself, first ask yourself a few
questions.
1
Do you have some experience with carpentry?
2 Do you have your own tools?
3 Are you handy with a measuring tape and able to handle a
drill, saw and screwdriver?
4 Are you experienced and qualified to do basic plumbing
and electrical tasks?
5 Do you understand terms like miter cut, level and plumb?
If you passed this little quiz, you may be able to install your own
cabinetry. However, if you’re not an experienced do-it-yourselfer,
you may be better off leaving this task to the pros.
Before You Begin
1 Check your inventory to be sure you received your entire
order. If there are any missing or improper parts, contact
your designer or customer service.
2 AWC recommends that no fewer than two people work
together to install these cabinets.
3 Read and understand the entire installation guide prior to
beginning the install.
Safety Precautions
DANGER
TO REDUCE THE RISK OF SERIOUS OR FATAL INJURY FROM
FIRE, EXPLOSION OR ELECTROCUTION, IF GAS LINE OR
ELECTRICAL WORK IS INVOLVED, HAVE THE WORK DONE BY
A UTILITY COMPANY OR QUALIFIED SERVICE PROFESSIONAL.
To reduce the risk of shock, explosion or injury,
turn off all gas, electrical and water connections
prior to performing any work. Shut off the power
to all appliances and receptacles in the kitchen,
including lights, at the fuse-breaker box. Use a
circuit tester to make sure power is off.
Once you have ensured that the gas, water and electric in the
room are turned off, that the plumbing, gas and power supplies
are properly capped, and have removed the old cabinetry and
baseboards, you need to assess the room. Take special note of the
floors and walls. Use a level or straightedge to determine high spots
and other imperfections. Mark any bumpy or bulging areas. You
may have to prep the walls and floors if things are not plumb, level
and square. (Many people prefer to repaint and replace the flooring
while the room is empty.) The time you spend preparing the room
will ensure a smoother, easier installation of the cabinetry.
Prepare the Walls and Floors
We know that homes settle and things may not always be perfectly
flat and level. But there are ways around this when installing
cabinetry. Here are a few steps that will help you get off to a good
start.
1 Locate and mark all the studs using a stud finder. (To verify
the position of your studs, drive a small finishing nail into
the wall in an area that will be covered up by a cabinet.)
2 Recheck your measurements. Make sure the cabinet
drawings match the space.
3 Take inventory of your cabinets. Make sure you have
your entire order.
4 Gather the tools you will need.
Continued
3
Suggested Tool and Material List
• ANSI Z87.1 Rated Safety Goggles
• Layout from Designer
• Framing Square
• Hammer
• Pry Bar
• Phillips and Flathead Screwdrivers
• Level
• Tape Measure
• Pencil
• Straight Edge
• Drill
• Properly Rated Extension Cord
• 7⁄32” Drill Bit for Pre-drilling the Hanging Rail
•3⁄32” Drill Bits for Frame & Filler Attachment Pilot Holes
• Jigsaw or Table Saw
• Miter Box
• Clamps or C-Clamps
• Stud Finder
• 6’ Step Ladder
• Wood Shims
• Pin Nailer
• Small Finish Nails
• 1 x 2 or 1 x 3 Furring Strips
• Scrap Lumber (for 55” Propping Stick or T-Brace)
• Circuit Tester
• #10 x 21⁄2” Pan Head Screws (for wall attachment to stud)
• #8 x 21⁄2” Trim Head Screws (for frame attachment)
WARNING
Failure to properly secure the cabinets may result
in serious injury! The screws recommended are
for installations involving drywall and wood
stud construction, not for concrete or brick. If
securing cabinets to another material, consult an
installation professional to identify the proper
fasteners.
Step 1 Measure, Measure… and Measure Again
In order for cabinets to work properly and look right, they must be
installed level, plumb and flush with each other. This is easy enough
to achieve with some advanced planning.
1.1 First, locate the floor’s highest point. In order to do this,
place your level at the base of the wall, checking several
places along the wall until you find the high point in the
floor. Mark this spot. (Figure 1)
1
1.2 Measure up from the high point 34 ⁄2” and draw a level line
across the wall to establish the top of the base cabinets. If
installing cabinets before your flooring, be sure to allow for
the thickness of the material you plan to use. (Figure 2)
3
1.3 Then measure up from there another 19 ⁄8”. This will be the
baseline for the wall cabinets. (When you are finished, the
wall cabinets will sit at 537⁄8” above the high spot in the
floor). (Figure 2) Please refer to your design elevations to
verify dimensions specific to your layout
Wall stud locations
Base line for wall cabinets
Level
Level
Wall stud locations
Straight edge
Straight edge
34 1/2” from
highest point
level line
20 1/2”
Toekick line
Mark floor at
high point
20 1/2”
4
Toekick line
Shim to level
Highest point level line
Figure 1
19 3/8”
Figure 2
Shim to level
Highest point level line
line the same
1.4 Now measure up from the wall cabinet base
1
1
distance as the height of your cabinets (30 ⁄8”, 36 ⁄8” or
421⁄8”). This will be the top line for the wall cabinets. Any
non-standard height wall cabinets need to line up with this
top line as well. (Figure 3)
1.5 Using the 1 x 2 or 1 x 3 furring strips, screw a support rail
into the studs with 2” wood screws below the baseline you
have drawn for the wall cabinets. This will help support
the weight of the wall cabinets, and give you something to
rest the cabinets on when installing them. Make sure your
support rail (sometimes called a cleat or ledger board) is
level. (Figure 4)
Wall cabinet top line
Soffit or ceiling
Wall cabinet top line
30 1/8”, 36 1/8”,
or 42 1/8”
53 7/8”
34 1/2”
84”, 90”,
or 96”
Wall cabinet
base line
19 3/8”
Wall cabinet
base line
Wall stud locations
Toekick line
Soffit or ceiling
Highest point
level line
Temporary
support rails
53 7/8”
20 1/2”
Temporary support rail
Figure 3
NOTE: IF YOU HAVE A LOW CEILING OR SOFFIT, YOU MUST
MAKE SURE THAT THE WALL CABINETS WILL FIT PROPERLY
BETWEEN YOUR LEVEL LINE AND THE TOP.
Figure 4
Wall stud
locations
2” Wood screws
screw into wall stud
1.6 You are now ready to pre-assemble the wall cabinets.
Step 2 Prepare Wall & Corner Wall Cabinets
It is recommended that you install wall-mounted cabinets
first so the base cabinets won’t be in your way as you work. To
begin, most people find it helpful to lay out the cabinets on the
floor in position, level and plumb, and pre-assemble them before
hanging.
2.1 Remove all shelves and doors. You might want to mark (or
carefully stack them in position) for reinstalling later. This
will make the cabinets lighter and easier to handle.
(Figure 5)
Door hinge
Remove screw
2.2 Refer to the layout provided by your designer and start with
the corner cabinet (if there is one) and place it on the floor
below where it is to be mounted.
Note: When installing a blind wall cabinet, make
sure the cabinet is pulled out from the corner the
appropriate distance as called for in your kitchen
plan. Always be sure to use a filler to allow for
hinge clearance.
2.3 One by one, align the remainder of the cabinets and fillers
in position on the floor using the plan provided by the
designer. (Figure 6)
Cabinet face frame
Corner wall cabinet
Temporary
support rails
Adjacent wall cabinet
Wall stud
locations
Figure 5
Remove doors and shelves
Figure 6
Arrange cabinets
according to plan
Continued
Continued
5
NOTE: A BLIND WALL CABINET FILLS THE VOID OF THE
CORNER WITH USABLE STORAGE. THE DOOR comes preMOUNTED ON THE LEFT SIDE, BUT CAN BE MOVED TO THE
RIGHT DEPENDING ON YOUR DESIGN (SEE DIAGRAM A).
2.5 In order to attach two cabinets together,3 you will need to
clamp them together first. Then, drill a ⁄32” pilot hole in
three places along the hinge side of the frame. Finally, drive
in the #8 x 21⁄2” frame attachment (trim head) screws to
join the two cabinets. (Figure 8)
Blind wall cabinet
⁄32" pilot hole
3
Filler –refer to your layout
for the appropriate filler
width and distance to
pull the cabinet from
the wall.
Adjacent
wall cabinet
Frame
attachment
screws
Figure 8
DIAGRAM A
2.4 Using a level, make sure each cabinet is level and each
face frame (front of the cabinet) is flush with the adjacent
cabinet. A pry bar and shims can be used temporarily to get
everything level and plumb. (Figure 7)
Clamp face frames
together first
2.6 IMPORTANT: Check to make sure the frames are even and
plumb.
2.7 Continue for the remainder of the cabinets and fillers
following the layout provided by your designer.
2.8 Once all cabinets are pre-assembled on the floor, measure from
the corner to the first stud mark and transfer the measurement
to the inside of the cabinet to be installed. Repeat this step for
each and every stud. Now drill 7⁄32” holes for mounting through
the top and bottom hanging rails inside of the cabinet 3⁄4” down
from the top and 3⁄4” up from the bottom. (Figure 9)
Shim as required
Temporary
support rails
Level
Shim as required
Figure 7
Shim as required
There are two hanging rails across the
back of wall cabinets, one at the top and
one at the bottom. Drill through both
the top and bottom hanging rails at the
stud location.
⁄4" down
from top
3
Wall stud locations
NOTE: IT IS PARTICULARLY IMPORTANT TO INSTALL THE FIRST
CABINET LEVEL AND PLUMB, BOTH FROM SIDE-TO-SIDE AND
FROM FRONT-TO-BACK BECAUSE EACH ADDITIONAL CABINET
WILL BE ALIGNED WITH THE FIRST ONE.
Transfer stud
locations to
wall cabinets
Temporary
support rails
⁄4" up from
bottom
3
Note: place tall cabinets for spacing, but do not
assemble.
WARNING
To properly secure Wall cabinets larger than
15” wide, and to reduce the risk of cabinets
falling and causing serious injury, use at least 4
installation screws and Make sure the screws go
into the studs at least 1”.
6
Assembled wall cabinets
Figure 9
Wall stud locations
2.9 Fillers must also be pre-drilled and screwed into position.
Refer to STEP 4–INSTALL FILLERS… for more information
about measuring, cutting and installing fillers.
Step 3 Hang the Wall Cabinets One at a Time
3.1 Recheck the pre-assembled cabinets for level and plumb,
then disassemble wall cabinets before installing.
WARNING
To reduce the risk of serious or fatal injury,
remove all screws and disassemble wall cabinets
before installing.
Cabinets may be too heavy for one person to safely
lift alone.
THIS INSTALLATION GUIDE APPLIES TO ONLY WOOD
STUD CONSTRUCTION. IF YOU ARE SECURING CABINETS
TO ANOTHER MATERIAL, CONSULT AN INSTALLATION
PROFESSIONAL TO IDENTIFY THE PROPER FASTENERS.
NEVER USE NAILS TO INSTALL CABINETS BECAUSE DOING
SO MAY DAMAGE CABINETS OR FAIL TO PROPERLY SECURE
THEM WHICH MAY RESULT IN DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY.
1
3.3 Fasten the cabinet to the wall with #10 x 2 ⁄2” wall attachment
(pan head) screws. Do not fully tighten the screws until all
cabinets have been shimmed and properly positioned.
3.4 Next, using your level against the front of the cabinet, shim
wherever necessary to make sure the cabinets are perfectly
plumb (even though the walls may not be). Keep in mind,
you may have to loosen the wall attachment screws slightly
to shim properly.
3.5 Lift the adjacent cabinet into position on the support rail
and brace. Using the pilot holes you created on the floor,
attach the two cabinets at the face frames, making sure
they are still flush when screwed together. (Figure 11)
Mount adjacent cabinets,
shim as required
Tightening back rails against a crooked wall
without shims can break joints between the rail
and the body of the cabinet, causing it to fall from
the wall and possibly resulting in serious personal
injury.
3.2 Start with the corner cabinet. With someone else’s help, lift
it into position on the support rail and use a 2 x 4 or T-brace
at the front to prop the cabinet into place. Keep in mind,
blind corner cabinets may need to be pulled out from the
corner as shown in your kitchen plan. (Figure 10)
Corner cabinet
Temporary
support rails
Wall stud locations
T-brace
Figure 11
1
3.6 Once again, fasten the cabinet to the wall with #10 x 2 ⁄2”
wall attachment (pan head) screws. Do not fully tighten.
T-brace supports
front of cabinet
Soffit or ceiling
Start with
corner cabinet first
Back of cabinet
supported by support rails
Temporary
support rails
T-brace
Wall stud locations
Figure 10
Continued
7
cabinet, the opening should be sealed
3.7 If there is a blind corner
1
at this point with the ⁄8” panel packed inside the cabinet.
Pre-drill for small finishing nails or use a pin nailer. (Figure 12)
Blind wall cabinet
3.9 Once all cabinets are properly shimmed and properly
positioned, finish tightening the screws to secure the
cabinets to the walls.
3.10 Remove the support rails and spackle screw holes if
needed.
Provided 1⁄8" panel
WARNING
Wall stud locations
Temporary
support rails
T-brace
Figure 12
3.8 Continue along the walls until all cabinets are in place. If a
tall or utility cabinet is part of your plan, it should be added
at this point. Once again, shim for proper height and to
align so that it is perfectly plumb with the adjacent wall
cabinet. Once face frames are flush, clamp, drill and screw
together as previously described.
NOTE: At this point, you may want to set the tall
cabinet into position to be sure it fits properly.
To avoid risk of driving screws beyond the
cabinet face, care must be taken to prevent over
tightening of the screws and destroying the
integrity of the hanging strip.
To reduce the risk of serious injury or damage from
a loose or falling cabinet, Wall cabinets greater
than 12” in depth or larger than 24” in width must
NOT be installed and/or used as single, standalone cabinets without taking extra precautions
to fully and safely secure the cabinet to the
wall. Additional mounting support into a ceiling,
bulkhead, or side wall(s) is also recommended when
possible. When this is not possible, then additional
support must be provided either above or below
the cabinet to support weight at a point at least
12” from the wall. This can be done through angle
brackets/bracing, shelving, and/or additional
cabinets as a stand.
Note: REFER TO SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH
SPECIALTY TALL CABINETS.
Step 4 Install Fillers (where applicable)
Fillers may be necessary when installing cabinets. They help allow
for odd dimensions between a run of cabinets and the wall. They
also allow clearance for doors and drawers to operate properly
when turning a corner with a blind corner cabinet. Fillers and
valances often have to be trimmed to fit.
Install backer for fillers
greater than 3” to secure
the filler to the wall.
4.1 Measure the area requiring a filler piece. Carefully trim the
filler piece to the appropriate width with a saw.
/32” pilot hole
3
4.2
Clamp the filler in place and once again, drill a pilot hole on the
hinge side of the face frame and into the filler.
Hinge mounting
screw hole
1
4.3 Fasten the filler to the cabinet with #8 x 2 ⁄2” frame
Filler
4.4 If using a blind corner base, secure the other end of the
Clamp
filler panel to
face frame
attachment (trim head) screws. (Figure 13)
filler through the inside of the cabinet with the same pilot
hole and frame attachment screw technique.
Frame
attachment
screw
Figure 13
8
Step 5 Install End Panels (where applicable)
WARNING
To reduce the risk of death or serious personal
injury or property damage, avoid any contact with
plumbing, wiring or gas lines. These lines are often
in the walls and under the floor.
End panels are used to finish off a run of cabinets or box out an
appliance. Make sure to install plumb and level.
5.1 If your application uses a finished end panel, first trim the
panel to fit and then attach the panel to the side of the
cabinet. This can be done with contact adhesive or 1⁄2”
finishing nails. (Figure 14)
Last cabinet
Figure 14
End panel
5.2 When installing a refrigerator or dishwasher return, it is
important to mount a cleat at the floor to secure this panel.
Simply cut a piece of 1 x 2 dimensional lumber about 20”
long so it is not exposed at the front of the panel. Then
secure to the floor with 2–3 fasteners (concrete screws for
concrete floors / wood screws for wood floors). Secure the
cleat to the panel (DWR, RR, SFR, etc.) with 2–3 wood
screws. (Figure 15)
Refrigerator
or dishwasher
return
Cleat
Figure 15
Step 6 Install Base Cabinets
Installing base cabinets is very similar to the wall cabinets above.
The idea again is to lay out all the cabinets in position and make
sure all cabinets are level, square and plumb.
Remove doors, drawers,
shelves, and sliding shelves
or roll out trays
6.1 Remove all shelves, drawers and doors. You might want to
mark (or stack them in position) for reinstalling later. This
will make the cabinets lighter and easier to handle.
(See Appendix for drawer removal technique.) (Figure 16)
Figure 16
Continued
9
6.2 Start with the corner cabinet (if there is one) and place it
in position where it is to be mounted. When using a blind
base cabinet, make sure the cabinet is pulled out from the
corner the appropriate distance as called for in your kitchen
plan. (Figure 17)
Shim as required
Wall stud
locations
Check for level
1
6.5 Fasten the cabinet to the wall with #10 x 2 ⁄2” wall
attachment (pan head) screws.
6.6 If1 there is a blind corner cabinet, seal the opening with the
⁄8” panel packed inside the cabinet, as previously described
in the wall cabinet installation section.
6.7 Next, shim the adjacent cabinet into position and check for
level and plumb. Once again, clamp the face frames when
they are perfectly flush, drill pilot holes and join the two
cabinets with screws as previously described.
6.8 Continue this process until all cabinets are in place, making
sure that each cabinet is resting at the line on the wall,
level and plumb with each adjacent cabinet. Also make
sure to screw cabinets to each other at the face frames
before screwing to the wall. (Figure 18)
Highest point
level line
Filler
Check for plumb
Figure 17
Shim
as required
Hardwood hanging rail
Wall stud location
⁄32" pilot holes
3
NOTE: A BLIND BASE CABINET FILLS THE VOID OF THE
CORNER WITH USABLE STORAGE. THE DOOR comes preMOUNTED ON THE LEFT SIDE, BUT CAN BE MOVED TO THE
RIGHT DEPENDING ON YOUR DESIGN (SEE DIAGRAM B).
Clamp face
frames together
Wall attachment
screws
Frame
attachment
screws
Shim as
required
Wall stud
locations
Check for level
Blind base cabinet
Filler –refer to your layout
for the appropriate filler
width and distance to
pull the cabinet from
the wall.
Adjacent
base cabinet
Figure 18
DIAGRAM B
1
6.3 Make sure your cabinet reaches the 34 ⁄2” high level line
you drew on the wall. If not, you may have to shim into
position or use scrap to raise it to the proper level. If the
cabinet is tilting backward, shims at the back edge will
help. If it’s tilting forward, use the pry bar under the front
to adjust and then shim.
6.4 Measure from the corner to the first stud mark and transfer
the measurement to the inside of the cabinet to be
installed. Repeat this step for each and every stud. Now
drill 7⁄32” mounting holes through the center of the hanging
rail inside of the cabinet.
10
Check for plumb
Shim as required
6.9 The final step is adding fillers between the last cabinet and
the wall. Reference the layout provided by your designer for
location and dimension.
NOTE: YOU MAY NEED TO CREATE CUTOUTS FOR PLUMBING
AND ELECTRICAL JUNCTION BOXES. BE SURE TO measure
and MARK ACCURATELY. CUT HOLES FROM THE BACK OF
THE CABINET BEFORE MOUNTING TO THE WALL.
Step 7 Install Moldings (if applicable)
Note: Crown moldings and other trim make
any kitchen look custom built. If you are not an
experienced carpenter, this may be difficult and
better left to the pros. But if you have made
the decision to do-it-yourself, you may want to
practice your miter cuts on inexpensive pieces of
molding from your hardware store.
7.1
7.4 When trimming molding, keep in mind that the proper
position for the molding in the miter box is upside down
with the bottom edge resting against the fence. (Figure 21)
Place molding
in saw “upside down”
Back of molding
Trim molding is used to trim out cabinetry where cabinets
meet an adjacent wall, soffit or ceiling. Carefully measure
and cut to proper length. Use small finish nails or a pin
nailer to attach where cabinet and wall meet. (Figure 19)
Verify angle
before cutting
Soffit or ceiling
Trim molding
Figure 21
Top of molding
Flat sides of molding
rest squarely against
table and fence of saw
NOTE: ALWAYS USE A MITER BOX FOR ACCURATE MOLDING
CUTS AND DOUBLE CHECK THE ANGLE REQUIRED BEFORE
CUTTING. SEE DIAGRAMS C–G on pages 12-13 FOR A
HANDY GUIDE.
Wall cabinets
Figure 19
7.2 Crown moldings mount along the top edge of the cabinets.
If your cabinets are full overlay, you may need to install
some blocking material to the top of the cabinet first.
(Figure 20)
Installed crown moldings
Soffit or ceiling
Filler materials
as required
Crown moldings
Trim molding
Figure 20
7.3 When moldings meet at an angle, you will need to use a
miter box for a proper cut. Once moldings are cut to fit, use
small finish nails or a pin nailer to attach the molding to the
face frame of the cabinet.
Continued
11
DIAGRAM C: MITER CUTS FOR 90º ANGLES
Inside Corner
Outside Corner
Save right
end of cut
Miter right at 45º
Miter left at 45º
Left Side
Save right
end of cut
Left Side
Save left
end of cut
Miter left at 45º
Save left
end of cut
Right Side
Miter right at 45º
Right Side
DIAGRAM D: MITER CUTS FOR 135º ANGLES
Inside Corner
Outside Corner
Miter right at 22.5º
Save right
end of cut
Miter left at 22.5º
Left Side
Save left
end of cut
Save right
end of cut
Left Side
Miter left at 22.5º
Save left
end of cut
Right Side
Miter right at 22.5º
Right Side
DIAGRAM E: MITER CUTS FOR 158º ANGLES
Inside Corner
Outside Corner
Miter right at 11º
Save right
end of cut
Miter left at 11º
Left Side
Save left
end of cut
Left Side
Miter left at 11º
Right Side
12
Save right
end of cut
Save left
end of cut
Miter right at 11º
Right Side
MOLDING CUTS
90º Angles: Cut molding at 45º angle
135º Angles: Cut molding at 22.5º angle
158º Angles: Cut molding at an 11º angle
WALL AND BASE CABINETS
WER, BER, BSS
& CAR
Corner Wall &
Corner Base
90º (inside)
135º
(inside)
BASE CABINETS ONLY
90º
(outside)
BEA24
BEA12
135º (outside)
135º
(outside)
158º
(outside)
135º (outside)
DIAGRAM F
WEA
DIAGRAM G
Step 8 Final Assembly and Cleanup
8.1 Once all cabinets are hung, leveled and screws are tightened,
Shelf support
dowel
it is helpful to sweep out or vacuum any debris or sawdust.
8.2 Install shelves by placing the shelf supports into the holes
Rear shelf
support screw
on both sides of the cabinet, push in completely and turn
until the flat side rests upward and place the shelves into
position. On wide cabinets, you will also need to insert a
shelf rest on the back wall and front stile of the cabinet
for added stability using the kit enclosed with the cabinet.
(Figure 22)
8.3 Install any interior convenience kits, such as tray dividers, rolling
shelves, wastebaskets, etc. See instructions with each kit.
8.4 Install the toe kick overlay along the bottom of the base
cabinets. Simply measure a continuous run of base cabinets
and cut a piece of toe kick to that length and adhere with
adhesive caulk and pin nails spaced about 24 inches apart.
8.5 Reattach doors by replacing the screws through the hinges.
8.6 Insert drawers into the glides. (See Appendix for drawer
Figure 22
Stile
install technique if necessary.)
8.7
Remove the wall support rail and fill the screw holes with
spackling. The wall is now ready for your backsplash material.
Front shelf
support
13
The Finishing Touches
Door Hinge Adjustment
All hinges come pre-set from the factory. But occasionally, other
adjustments are needed to straighten cocked doors or doors that
don’t seem to sit flush. This is easily accomplished with just a
screwdriver. The hinges on the back of the door have adjustment
screws. With a little experimentation, you will see which screw
moves the door the way you need it to go.
Sometimes one door is mounted higher than its neighbor. A simple
measurement can confirm this. Check along one edge or use a
straight edge to determine if a correction is needed. (A level works
great and can come in handy when making the adjustment.)
Loosen screw to adjust
door height (your hinge
may be slightly different
than shown)
Door height
adjustment
Check door alignment
with straight edge
or level
To adjust the higher door, simply open it and loosen the mounting
screws that hold the hinges to the inside edge of the cabinet frame.
There is a slot in the bracket so the door will slide down slightly.
Retighten the hinges to the frame so that the door aligns with the
other, checking with the level. (Figure 23)
Figure 23
Drawer Head Adjustment
Measure drawer front
against drawer body
Square up drawer front (if necessary). Check it visually and use a rule to
size up the differences. Then loosen one side by unscrewing the drawer
front slightly. Use the rule to help you determine how high to raise the
lower side. Then, while holding the drawer front in place, tighten down
the screws again. (Figure 24)
Loosen screws to adjust
drawer front position
ttach hardware after careful measuring. Use your drill to make
A
pilot holes and install hardware with screws supplied. To prevent
screw heads used for door hardware from scratching face frames,
you may want to countersink screw heads so they can’t strike the
face frame.
NOTE: Jig/templates are usually available where
hardware is sold, and may be useful for accurate
hardware installation.
nce all assembly and adjustments are done, carefully examine
O
your cabinets for any scratches or nicks that may have occurred
during the installation process. Follow the handy guide for touching
up and cleaning your cabinets found in the Appendix on page 16.
14
Adjust drawer
front position until
measurement is equal
on both sides
Figure 24
Drawer Installation
To install drawers with Full Access Hidden Glides, extend each
drawer glide. Place the drawer on top of the extended drawer
glides. Slide the drawer squarely into cabinet on top of drawer
glides until you begin to feel resistance.
Push drawer evenly with moderate pressure until you hear the clips
snap into place. Pull drawer open to verify that both clips have
snapped into place. If you find that a clip is not in place remove the
drawer and repeat the installation procedure.
Holes in the back
of drawer
Hook on drawer glides
Make sure hooks on drawer glides
are engaged into holes on back of
the drawer
To install drawers with side-mounted drawer glides, place the
drawer in the cabinet opening, aligning the rollers on the track.
Push the drawer into the cabinet opening.
Drawer Glide Adjustments
Cycle the drawer open and closed to ensure that it operates
smoothly. If the drawer is not operating smoothly, be sure that
hooks on both of the drawer glides are engaged into the holes in
the back of the drawer. (Figure 25)
Figure 25
If the drawer still does not operate smoothly, open the drawer and
take a closer look at the drawer glides mounted inside the cabinet.
Slide the glides toward the center at the rear of the cabinet. Then
slide the drawer all the way in. This is usually all it takes to correct
the alignment and get a smoother glide. Adjust the back of the
glides by removing the drawer and sliding the back of the glide left
or right if more adjustment is necessary. (Figure 26)
Adjust glides
left or right as
required
Figure 26
15
Handy Pointers
Drawer Removal
To remove drawers with Full Access Hidden Glides, locate the black
plastic clips on the bottom of the drawer. Grasp clips at the finger
points provided. Using moderate pressure squeeze the handles
on both sides. This pressure should be maintained during drawer
removal. While continuing to squeeze the black clips, pull the
drawer straight out until it is removed completely. (Figure 27)
Squeeze both black clips
located under drawer
and pull drawer out
To remove drawers with side-mounted drawer glides, pull the
drawer straight out until it stops. Then lift the front of the drawer
slightly and gently pull forward until the glides release.
Base cabinet
Figure 27
Care and Cleaning
Our cabinets are extremely resistant to stains and surface damage
that can be caused by common household chemicals. They exceed
industry standards in resisting stains like coffee, grape juice and
moisture—all common in any kitchen. But this doesn’t mean that
they are impervious to damage through neglect.
To touch up scratches and nicks that may occur during the
installation process or during the life of your cabinets, use the stain
touch-up marker and Fil-Stik included in the sink base. The touch-up
marker and Fil-Stik are matched to the finish of your cabinetry and
created especially for do-it-yourself repairs.
Clean spills immediately. Use a clean cloth and mild soap
if necessary. Wipe dry with a soft cloth. Do not use bleach,
detergents, citrus or ammonia based cleaners, steel wool, soap
pads or abrasive cleaners on your cabinets.
Use the touch-up marker on surface scratches, scuffs or rubbed
edges. Simply shake the marker; remove cap and press down on
the tip until the felt is wet. You may find it easier to test this on
paper or cardboard first. Apply color touch-up with light strokes and
use a cloth to immediately wipe off any excess. Allow to dry for
several minutes.
Periodically, remove dust from cabinets with a soft lint-free cloth.
The cloth may be slightly dampened with water or a spray type
dust remover. Wood and laminate cabinet surfaces may be polished
once every few months with a high quality, non-oil based furniture
polish. Do not use a paste wax type material. Wax build-up is
difficult to remove and will leave a residue that attracts dust and
moisture. Polishes containing silicon should not be used.
Extra care should be taken that cabinet finishes are not exposed to
heat in excess of 200 degrees Fahrenheit (174 degrees for Thermo
Foil finishes).
Heat shield kits are available for Thermo Foil styles to direct heat
from ovens away from adjacent cabinets.
16
The Fil-Stik is the tool of choice for chips, dents, deep scratches
or open joints. Simply rub across the affected area until it is filled
and wipe off the excess with a dry cloth. The touch-up Fil-Stik will
fill small holes, chips, dents or open joints. Keep the Fil-Stik out of
reach of children and pets.
These extra steps will ensure that your hard work looks its best and
will help your cabinetry look great for years to come.
These instructions should only be printed using Adobe
Acrobat and should not be faxed or reproduced on a
digital copier. American Woodmark Corporation provides
these instructions on an “AS IS” basis and disclaims any
and all liability for any inaccuracies, omissions or
typographical errors caused by the user’s equipment or
by any third party’s equipment.
ESTAS INSTRUCCIONES SÓLO SE DEBEN IMPRIMIR USANDO ADOBE
ACROBAT Y NO SE DEBEN ENVIAR POR FAX NI SE DEBEN
REPRODUCIR EN UNA COPIADORA DIGITAL. AMERICAN WOODMARK
CORPORATION PROPORCIONA ESTAS INSTRUCCIONES “TAL COMO
ESTAN” Y RENUNCIA A CUALQUIER Y A TODA RESPONSABILIDAD POR
CUALQUIER FALTA DE PRECISIÓN, OMISIÓN O ERROR TIPOGRÁFICO
CAUSADO POR EL EQUIPO DEL USUARIO O POR EL EQUIPO DE
TERCERAS PERSONAS.
10-0533 7/08
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