insructions for installation of torque curve control

insructions for installation of torque curve control
Insure you have the tools/items listed below before disabling vehicle
TST Power Kit
Fender covers to protect paint
7/16 inch deep barrel socket 3/8’s drive with ratchet
10 mm six point socket, 3/8’s drive with 3” extension
Tape or clean towels to cover openings
7 mm and ¼ inch six point sockets, ¼ drive with 3” extension
19mm socket, 3/8’s or ½ drive
Center punch 8-10 inches long
Hammer to strike punch and hand impact tool
Hand impact tool, 3/8’s or ½ drive
T15 & T20 TORX bits ¼” drive with ¼” extension 6” long
¼ to 3/8’s and or ½ adapter to hand impact tool
8mm 6point ¼”drive socket
Large standard screw driver bit with 6” adapter for impact tool
Large screwdriver or small pry bar
7/16 inch open end wrench
5/8 inch open end wrench
Torque wrench capable of at least 30 pound-feet
RTV silicon sealant
8 mm allen wrench
Park vehicle in a suitable work location, set parking brake, place automatic transmissions in park,
manual transmissions in neutral, and open hood.
Disconnect both battery negative battery cables.
Clean engine if necessary to keep debris and foreign objects from entering engine
Place fender cover or protective covering to protect paint and batteries.
Using a 7/16 inch deep barrel socket, loosen lower clamp on upper intake connection hose and slide
lower clamp off of hose and down the steel tube out of the way. (FIGURE 1)
Remove the six bolts holding the air intake connection and dipstick tube in place using a 10 mm 6
point socket. NOTE: Observe that these bolts are of different lengths so they can be installed in
correct location during assembly. (FIGURE 1)
Remove intake manifold connection and hose as a unit, taking care not to damage gasket. This
gasket can normally be reused however if it is torn, replace with a new gasket, Cummins part number
3913352. NOTE: Hold electrical grid heater in place while lifting the air connection so that the
gasket joint under the grid heater is not disturbed.
Cover the air tube and manifold openings with tape or towels to keep foreign objects out.
Determine where your vehicle obtains its wastegate pressure signal. Some vehicles pick up this
signal at an elbow on the front of the turbo as shown in FIGURE 2 while others get this signal at a
tee connected to the rear of the injection pump as shown in FIGUREs 3 & 4. If your vehicle is like
FIGURE 2 proceed to step 11 below. If your vehicle gets the wastegate signal from the tee at the
rear of the injection pump, loosen the hose clamps on the AFC housing to turbo wastegate tube air
hose using a 7 mm socket. Disconnect the hose from the barbed fitting on the top of the fuel pump
Air Fuel Control (AFC) housing. Slide the hose as far as possible onto the steel turbo wastegate
Remove the barbed fitting from the AFC housing using a 7/16 inch deep barrel socket. NOTE:
Save this fitting in case you want to convert your engine back to stock, this fitting is not used with
the Power Kit.
Remove injection pump fuel supply tube banjo bolt using a 19 mm socket. NOTE: A few ounces
of fuel will drain out which could wash the sealing washers away. Take care NOT to loose sealing
washers as they are reused. If lost or damaged replace with Cummins part number 3918192.
NOTE: The fuel supply tube is not removed , loosening it on the injection pump end allows access
to get to the AFC housing screws. OPTIONAL: You can avoid removing the banjo bolt if you bend
the fuel supply line slightly so as to make access to the break off screw. (See FIGURE 4) This option
saves some time, eliminates breaking into the fuel line, and make engine restart more quickly.
Next remove front passenger side AFC housing break off screw. NOTE: This screw is a factory
break off screw with rounded head and no screw driver, allen head or TORX slot. Use a hand
impact tool with a 6 inch long ¼” extension and a T15 TORX bit to remove this screw. A center
punch may be required to start a hole in the center of this screw. Set the hand impact tool in the
removal position (counter clockwise) and use light hammer taps on the impact tool to loosen this
screw. Tap progressively harder on the impact tool until the screw loosens. This method of removal
forms a TORX shape into the screw allowing it to be reinstalled later with the T15 TORX bit. In
some cases the hole in the top of this screw is too large for the T15 bit thus use the T20 TORX bit.
There is usually a lock washer and flat washer under each of these screws. OPTIONAL: A sharp
chisel can be used to remove the break off screw by making a notch in the outside diameter of the
head, then applying a tangential force with light blows to the chisel counterclockwise to remove the
Use hand impact tool and a 8mm socket to remove the two driver side AFC screws.
Use the hand impact tool with large standard screw driver bit to remove the rear passenger side AFC
Pry the fuel shutdown solenoid bracket away from the AFC housing using a larger screwdriver in
the pry slot shown in FIGURE 4. This bracket only needs to move about 3/8” for clearance.
Lift AFC housing, moving it out of the way toward the rear of the engine. The boost pressure line
need not be disconnected. NOTE: Some engines have a metal rather than a plastic boost line
between the engine intake to the AFC housing, in this case the boost line should be disconnected.
Place the installation guide provided with the Power Kit over the torque curve plate as shown in
FIGUREs 5 and 6. This guide plate prevents objects from entering the open fuel pump and it
helps position the new torque curve plate. NOTE: The installation guide only fits one way, if it
appears not to fit, flip it over and try again.
Leave one of the torque plate screws tight while removing the other screw using the hand impact
tool with a large screw driver bit. Move the removed screw and reinstall it to one corner of the
guide plate. Slide the installation guide as far as possible toward the rear of the engine so that
there is zero clearance between the front edge of the torque curve plate flange and the installation
guide, as shown in FIGURE 6. Once zero clearance is achieved, hand tighten the screw so that
the guide does NOT move in the next four steps.
Remove the other torque plate screw and install it in another corner to help hold the guide in
Remove the stock torque curve plate using pliers or a magnet. Save the stock torque curve plate
to permit converting the engine back to the stock rating in the future.
Place the new Power Kit torque curve plate in the same position the stock plate formerly
occupied, sliding the torque curve plate as far forward as possible so that there is near zero
clearance left between the front of the torque plate and the installation guide.
Install one of the two torque plate screws and hand tighten as tight as possible with a normal
large screw driver. Install the 2nd screw. Using the hand impact tool and a large standard bit,
tighten each screw another 1/8 to ¼ turn.
Remove installation guide, save guide in case you want to convert the engine back to the stock.
Be sure that the AFC housing seal is in its groove (it may require a dab of grease or silicon sealant
to hold it in place) then carefully reinstall the AFC housing. Do NOT force the housing into
place, rather insure that the tang on the bottom of the housing fits in the slot in the torque curve
plate. Wiring harnesses, hoses, and the solenoid bracket may need to be moved to get the housing
to drop into its proper location.
Move the shutoff solenoid bracket back to its original position so that the AFC housing mounting
screws will pass through the proper holes in the bracket and housing.
Install the AFC housing hold down screws loosely in their original locations, see FIGURE 4. A
new break off screw is included in the Power Kit if you want to replace the original break off
screw. NOTE that the AFC housing mounting holes are slotted, slide the housing as far toward
the front of the engine as the slots allow.
Tighten three of the AFC mounting screws (not the break off screw) as tight as possible with a
normal screw driver, then use the hand impact tool to turn each screw and additional 1/8 to ¼
turn. It is suggested that you successfully complete the test drive before breaking off the head of
the break off screw, only tighten it slightly to keep it from falling out during the test drive. You
can reuse the original break off screw by installing with a TORX bit.
Install the turbo boost control (the small brass elbow supplied with the Power Kit) into the 1/8
pipe port for wastegate control fitting (see FIGURE 4) in place of the barbed hose fitting
removed in step 10. If your vehicle senses manifold pressure at the turbo as shown in FIGURE 2,
remove the crimp type clamp with pliers, remove the stock elbow and install the boost control
elbow from the Power Kit in its place. Do NOT disturb the allen head set screw in the brass
elbow as it will affect boost levels. Lightly tighten this fitting using a 7/16 inch open end
wrench, then continue to tighten until the barbed end aligns with the turbo wastegate tube.
Install the hose removed in step 9 onto the brass barb of the turbo boost control. The AFC
housing to boost pressure line fitting may need to be loosened slightly using a 5/8 inch open end
wrench for good alignment of the hose. Tighten the two hose clamps loosened in step 8 using a 7
mm socket. If your vehicle appears as in FIGURE 2, use the new hose clamp supplied in the
Power Kit, reattach the hose and tighten clamp using ¼ inch socket. NOTE: Reinstall the boost
pressure line if it was removed in step 16.
Install the injection pump fuel supply tube banjo bolt if removed in step 11. Be sure that a sealing
washer is placed on both side of the banjo fitting, one between the bolt head and banjo, and the
other between the banjo and injection pump. Tighten the banjo bolt to 24 lb-ft using a 19 mm
socket and suitable torque wrench.
Remove the duct tape or towels from the previously covered openings, reinstall the air connection
gasket and the air intake connection, starting the rubber hose on the air intake tube first, then
rotating the connection into position.
Clean debris from threads of air connection bolts, then place a small amount of RTV sealer
sparsely on the first ¾ inch of threads, reinstall bolts to their original position and tighten to 18 lbft using a 10mm six point socket and suitable torque wrench.
Reinstall lower air connection hose clamp and tighten hand tight, do NOT strip threads on clamp
bolt. Check the other seven air circuit clamps at this time to insure the four hoses and eight
clamps are not leaking air
Remove fender and battery cover, lights, tools etc. , and reconnect battery cables.
Start Engine and check for leaks. Since the fuel drained from the injection pump fuel supply
tube, it will take several seconds of cranking before the engine will start. Don’t panic, this is
normal. Depress the throttle to about half throttle position and crank engine no more than 30
seconds. Let starter motor cool for 2 minutes before attempting to crank for another 30 seconds.
The engine will normally start during the first 10 seconds of cranking. If after four 30 second
attempts the engine has not started, check to make sure the fuel shutoff solenoid) and shutoff
lever are moving when the key is turned from off to run. When engine starts let throttle back to
idle position and check under hood for leaks. Repair leaks as necessary.
Test drive the vehicle. It should now have much more power
and quicker acceleration. Observe acceleration rate and smoke.
If vehicle is still slow to accelerate or has too much smoke,
adjust the AFC setting as required. To adjust, remove the large
plug on top of the AFC housing (see FIGURE 7) using an 8 mm
allen wrench. Take care not to loose the sealing washer under
the plug. Removing the plug exposes a star wheel which
changes the quickness of fueling response to boost. If
acceleration is weak with minimal smoke, rotate top of the star
wheel toward the engine a few revolutions. If vehicle has heavy
black smoke on initial acceleration, rotate top of star wheel away
from engine a few revolutions. Reinstall large plug with sealing
washer and test drive vehicle again. It may take repeated
attempts to get this adjustment set. If heavy smoke is still
encountered with star wheel moved completely to rear position,
go back to step 26, loosen AFC housing and slide it rearward a
1/16 inch, retighten and test again. Repeat unit desired results
To make your installation look professional, paint the new parts
and chips on screws and bolts with a matching engine paint.
Cummins paint part number 3822975 “bluke” matches most
earlier engines that appear grayish-blueish-black. Later engines
are painted a glossy black 3824514 “titanium black”.
Copyright C 1998 TST Products, Inc. REVISION 2/16/98
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