warning!

Contents

1 Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Safety Signal Words . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

User Responsibility . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Bicycle Setup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Personal Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Riding Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Before You Ride Safety Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

2 Parts Identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

3 Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Tools Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Getting Started . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Attach the Handlebar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Attach the Lockon Grips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Attach the Brake Cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Attach the Front Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Attach the Seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Attach the Pedals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

4 Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Tools Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Adjusting the Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Adjusting the Derailleur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Adjusting the Seat Height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

Adjusting the Handlebar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

Adjusting the Headset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Adjusting the Bottom Bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

5 Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

Brake Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

Gear Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

Security . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54

6 Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

Basic Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

Lubrication Schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

Parts Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

Hub Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

Inflating the Tire Tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

Repairing a Flat Tire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61

Troubleshooting Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62

7 Warranty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

Purchase Record . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

Congratulations

on your new bicycle! Proper assembly and operation of your bicycle is important for your safety and enjoyment. Our customer service department is dedicated to your satisfaction with Pacific Cycle and its products. If you have questions or need advice regarding assembly, parts, performance, or returns, please contact the experts at Pacific Cycle. Enjoy the ride!

Toll free: 1-800-626-2811 .

Customer Service hours: Monday - Friday 8 AM- 5 PM Central

Standard Time (CST)

You may also reach us at:

Web: www.pacific-cycle.com

Email: [email protected]

Mail: P . O . Box 344

4730 E. Radio Tower Lane

Olney, IL 62450

Do not return this item to the store. Please call Pacific Cycle

customer service if you need assistance. You will need your model number and date code located on the service sticker near the bottom bracket area. See Section 7: Purchase Record for the location of the model number on your bicycle.

About This Manual

It is important for you to understand your new bicycle.

By reading this manual before you go out on your first ride, you’ll know how to get better performance, comfort, and enjoyment from your new bicycle. It is also important that your first ride on your new bicycle is taken in a controlled environment, away from cars, obstacles and other cyclists.

This manual contains important information regarding safety, assembly, use, and maintenance of the bicycle but is not intended to be a complete or comprehensive manual covering all aspects concerning bicycle ownership. We recommend consulting a bicycle specialist if you have any doubts or concerns regarding your experience or ability to properly assemble and maintain the bicycle.

A Special Note For Parents and Guardians

It is a tragic fact that most bicycle accidents involve children.

As a parent or guardian, you bear the responsibility for the activities and safety of your minor child. Among these responsibilities are to make sure that the bicycle which your child is riding is properly fitted to the child; that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child have learned, understand and obey not only the applicable local motor vehicle, bicycle, and traffic laws, but also the common sense rules of safe and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you should read this manual before letting your child ride the bicycle. Please make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle helmet when riding.

2

Lives!

• ALWAYS WEAR A PROPERLY FITTED

HELMET WHEN RIDING YOUR BICYCLE

• DO NOT RIDE AT NIGHT

• AVOID RIDING IN WET CONDITIONS

Correct Fitting

Make sure your helmet covers your forehead

Incorrect Fitting

Forehead is exposed and vulnerable to serious injury

3

4

1 Safety

Safety

SAFETY SIGNAL WORDS

The following safety signal words indicate a safety message.

The symbol alerts you to potential hazards. Failure to follow the warning may result in damage to property, injury, or death.

This manual contains many Warnings and Cautions concerning the consequences of failure to follow safety warnings. Because any fall can result in serious injury or even death, we do not repeat the warning of possible injury or death whenever the risk of falling is mentioned.

WARNING!

Indicates a hazard or unsafe practice that will result in severe injury or death. Failure to read, understand and follow the safety information in this manual may result in serious injury or death.

CAUTION!

Indicates a hazard or unsafe practice that could result in minor injury.

NOTICE

Indicates a hazard unrelated to personal injury, such as property damage.

USER RESPONSIBILITY

WARNING!

Do not install any kind of power plant or internal combustion engine to a bicycle. Adapting a bicycle in this manner poses an extreme safety risk to rider and could result in loss of control or death.

All persons assembling, using, and maintaining the bicycle must read and understand the safety warnings and operating instructions in this manual before using the bicycle.

It is the responsibility of the user, or in the case of a child rider, an adult, to ensure the bicycle is properly maintained and in proper operating condition. Doing so will reduce the risk of injury. Always conduct regular maintenance and inspection of your bicycle. Complete the Safety Checklist at the end of this section before each use.

A responsible adult must always supervise the use of the bicycle by a child. You must ensure:

• The child is wearing the proper protective attire and approved bicycle helmet.

• The child is seated securely and the bicycle is properly fitted to the child.

• The child understands applicable laws and common sense rules of safe responsible bicycling.

BICYCLE SETUP

WARNING!

Inability to safely reach the handlebars and dismount the bicycle may result in loss of control of the bicycle. If the bicycle has a top tube on the frame, ensure there is one to three inches of clearance between the rider and the top tube.

Improper setup or maintenance of the bicycle may result in an unexpected movement, loss of control, and serious injury or death.

Correct Bicycle Size

Riding a bicycle that is not correctly sized to the rider may result in the rider’s feet not being able to touch the ground and balance the bicycle, properly reach the handlebar for steering or braking, and loss of control when pedaling.

Use the wheel size in the following table as a guide to match the rider and bicycle. For example, bicycles with a wheel size of 12 inches fit a rider that is 28 to 38 inches tall. Note: Some bicycles such as folding bicycles may have smaller wheels but still fit adults.

If the bicycle has a top tube on the frame, check that there is one to three inches of clearance between the rider and the top tube. Figure 1.1

Wheel Size

12 inch

16 inch

18 inch

20 inch

24 inch

26 inch, 27.5 inch,

29 inch, 700c

1 to 3 inch clearance

Safety 1

Riders Approximate Height

28 - 38 inches tall

38 - 48 inches tall

42 - 52 inches tall

48 - 60 inches tall

56 - 66 inches tall

64 - 74 inches tall

Top tube

Figure 1.1

5

1 Safety

Seat Height and Handlebar Reach

WARNING!

Improperly adjusted seat height could affect the rider’s ability to reach the handlebar and pedals may result in an unexpected movement, loss of control, and serious injury or death. Follow these guidelines when adjusting the seat height. Always ensure the seat post minimum insertion marks are below the seat clamp and cannot be seen. Ensure the seat clamp is locked and the seat cannot move.

Your legs should be almost completely straight when the pedal is in the down most position, just a slight bend in the knee. Figure 1.2

Note: The rider’s feet may not touch the ground easily. If this is the case the rider can simply move forward off the seat to mount and dismount the bicycle or the seat can be adjusted lower if the rider is uncomfortable with the height, but note that riding is more difficult with the seat too low, as the legs are in an unnatural position.

Do not raise the seat so much the knees lock straight when pedaling or you have to move forward off the seat to pedal.

This is unsafe and the bicycle cannot be controlled in this condition.

You should be able to safely reach the handlebar with your arms bent slightly (approximately 10 degrees) at the elbow.

6

Adjust the seat height

1

2

Figure 1.2

Quick-release Levers

WARNING!

Improper setup or maintenance of the quick-release levers may result in an unexpected movement, loss of control, and serious injury or death. Before riding always check that the quick-release lever is firmly locked in place and the seat does not move.

Wheels

Some bicycles will come equipped with quick-release levers for the front wheel. The wheels must be securely locked.

Ensure the wheel quick-release lever is firmly locked in place. Figure 1.3

Seat Post

Ensure the seat post’s minimum insertion marks are not visible above the quick-release seat clamp and the clamp is locked in place.

Note: See Section 4: Adjusting the Seat Height if adjustments are needed.

Minimum insertion marks are located on the seat post

Quick-release seat clamp

2

Seat post

Seat tube

Safety 1

Quick-release wheel

1

Figure 1.3

7

8

1 Safety

PERSONAL SAFETY

WARNING!

Riding a bicycle without protective gear, clothing, or a helmet may result in serious injury or death. Always wear protective gear, clothing, and helmet when riding the bicycle. Ensure protective gear does not interfere with steering, braking, and pedaling.

Protective Gear and Clothing

Always wear: Figure 1.4

• Colors that are easily seen and, if possible, reflective clothing.

• Clothing appropriate for the weather conditions.

• Use of protective gear such as pads for the knees and elbows is highly recommended for children.

• A properly fitted, ASTM or SNELL approved, bicycle helmet shall be worn at all times by riders of the bicycle. For information regarding how to properly fit a helmet visit:

http://www.nhtsa.gov/people/injury/pedbimot/bike/ easystepsweb

Do not wear:

• Loose clothing parts, strings, or jewelry that may become entangled with moving parts on the bicycle or interfere with handling of the bicycle.

• Pants with loose pant legs. If necessary, always tuck pant legs into a sock or use a leg band to avoid the clothing becoming caught in the drive chain.

• Shoes with untied shoe laces.

Leg band

Properly fitted helmet

Easily seen or reflective clothing

Elbow pads

Knee pads

Shoes fastened or tied

Figure 1.4

Helmet Use

Important! Many states have passed helmet laws regarding children. Make sure you know your state’s helmet laws. It is your job to enforce these rules with your children. Even if your state does not have a children’s helmet law, it is recommended that everyone wear a helmet when cycling. When riding with a child carrier seat or trailer, children must wear a helmet.

It is strongly advised that a properly fitting, ASTM or SNELL approved, bicycle safety helmet be worn at all times when riding your bicycle. In addition, if you are carrying a passenger in a child safety seat, they must also be wearing a helmet.

The correct helmet should: Figure 1.5

• Be comfortable

• Have good ventilation

• Fit correctly

• Cover forehead

Incorrect helmet position: Figure 1.6

• Helmet does not cover the forehead

Safety 1

Figure 1.5

Figure 1.6

9

1 Safety

Reflectors

WARNING!

Missing, damaged, or dirty reflectors will affect the ability of others to see and recognize you as a moving bicyclist increasing the risk of being hit, serious injury or death. Always check the reflectors are in place and make sure they are clean, straight, unbroken and securely mounted before riding the bicycle.

Important! Federal regulations require every bicycle over 16 inches to be equipped with front, rear, wheel, and pedal reflectors. Many states require specific safety devices. It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the state where you ride and to comply with all applicable laws, including properly equipping yourself and your bike as the law requires.

Bicycles under 16 inches are considered “sidewalk bicycles” and may not be fitted with reflectors. These bicycles should not be ridden on streets, at night or unsupervised by an adult.

Check and confirm the front and rear reflectors are in the correct position: Figure 1.7

• Front Reflector: Should aim forward (when viewed from above) and be mounted so it is within 5 degrees of vertical.

• Rear Reflector: Should aim straight back (when viewed from above) and be mounted so it is within 5 degrees of vertical.

Rear (red) plus or minus

5 degrees of vertical

Rear wheel

(white)

Pedal (orange)

Front (white)

Front wheel

(white)

Figure 1.7

10

Safety 1

RIDING SAFETY

WARNING!

Riding the bicycle in unsafe conditions (i.e. at night), in an unsafe manner, or disregarding traffic laws may result in an unexpected movement, loss of control, and serious injury or death.

General Safety

• Familiarize yourself with all the bicycle’s features before riding. Practice gear shifts, braking, and the use of toe clips and straps, if installed.

• Always ride defensively in a predictable, straight line. Never ride against traffic.

• Expect the unexpected (e.g., opening car doors or cars backing out of concealed driveways).

• Take extra care at intersections and when preparing to pass other vehicles.

• Maintain a comfortable stopping distance from all other riders, vehicles and objects. Safe braking distances and forces are subject to the prevailing weather conditions. Do not lock up the brakes. When braking, always apply the rear brake first, then the front. The front brake is more powerful and if it is not correctly applied, you may lose control and fall.

• Always use the correct hand signals to indicate turning or stopping.

• Obey the traffic laws (e.g., stopping at a red light or stop sign, giving way to pedestrians).

• Wear proper riding attire, reflective if possible, and avoid open toe shoes.

• Do not use items that may restrict your hearing and vision.

• Do not carry packages or passengers that will interfere with your visibility or control of the bicycle.

Road Conditions

• Be aware of road conditions. Concentrate on the path ahead.

Avoid pot holes, gravel, wet road markings, oil, curbs, speed bumps, drain grates and other obstacles.

• Cross train tracks at a 90 degree angle or walk your bicycle across.

Wet Weather

• When riding in wet weather always wear reflective clothing and use safety lights to enhance visibility.

• Exercise extreme caution when riding in wet conditions.

• Ride at a slower speed. Turn corners gradually and avoid sudden braking.

• Brake earlier, it will take a longer distance to stop.

• Pot holes and slippery surfaces such as line markings and train tracks all become more hazardous when wet.

11

1 Safety

Night Riding

Important! Riding a bicycle at night is not recommended.

Check your local laws regarding night riding.

• Ensure bicycle is equipped with a full set of correctly positioned and clean reflectors.

• Use a white light on the front and a red light on the rear.

Use lights with flashing capability for enhanced visibility.

• If using battery powered lights, make sure batteries are well charged.

• Wear reflective and light colored clothing. Wear reflective clothing and use safety lights for increased visibility.

• Ride at night only if necessary. Slow down and use familiar roads with street lighting.

Cornering Technique

• Brake slightly before cornering and prepare to lean your body into the corner.

• Maintain the inside pedal at the 12 o’clock position and slightly point the inside knee in the direction you are turning.

• Keep the other leg straight, do not pedal through fast or tight corners.

• Decrease your riding speed, avoid sudden braking and sharp turns.

Hill Technique

• Gear down before a climb and continue gearing down as required to maintain pedaling speed.

• If you reach the lowest gear and are struggling, stand up on your pedals. You will then obtain more power from each pedal revolution.

• On the descent, use the high gears to avoid rapid pedaling.

• Do not exceed a comfortable speed; maintain control and take additional care.

• Braking will require additional distance. Initiate braking slowly and earlier than usual.

Safe Riding Rules for Children

• Many states require that children wear a helmet while cycling.

Always wear a properly fitted helmet.

• Do not play in driveways or the road.

• Do not ride on busy streets.

• Do not ride at night.

• Obey all the traffic laws, especially stop signs and red lights.

• Be aware of other road vehicles behind and nearby.

• Before entering a street: Stop, look left, right, and left again for traffic. If there’s no traffic, proceed into the roadway.

• If riding downhill, be extra careful. Slow down using the brakes and maintain control of the steering.

• Never take your hands off the handlebars, or your feet off the pedals when riding downhill.

12

Safety 1

BEFORE YOU RIDE SAFETY CHECKLIST

Before every ride, it is important to carry out the following safety checks. Do not ride a bicycle that is not in proper

working condition!

Accessories

The reflectors are properly placed and not obscured. Note:

Bicycles 16” and under may not be equipped with reflectors since small children should not ride at night.

All other fittings on the bike are properly and securely fastened, and functioning.

The rider is wearing a properly fitted helmet (protective gear if necessary) and that clothing and loose items are properly constrained.

Bearings

All bearings are lubricated, run freely and display no excess movement, grinding or rattling.

Brakes

The front and rear brakes work properly.

The brake shoe pads are not overly worn and are correctly positioned in relation to the rims.

The brake control cables are lubricated, correctly adjusted and display no obvious wear.

The brake control levers are lubricated and tightly secured to the handlebar.

Chain

The chain is oiled, clean and runs smoothly.

Cranks and Pedals

The pedals are securely tightened to the crank arms.

The crank arms are secured to the axle and are not bent.

Frame and Fork

The frame and fork are not bent or broken.

The quick-release clamps are locked in place.

Steering

The handlebar and post are correctly adjusted and tightened, and allow proper steering.

The handlebars are set correctly in relation to the forks and the direction of travel.

The handlebar binder bolt is tightened.

Wheels and Tires

The rims do not have dirt or grease on them.

The wheels are properly attached to the bicycle and axle.

The tires are properly inflated within the recommended pressures displayed on the tires sidewall.

The tires have the proper amount of tread, no bulges or excessive wear.

13

Parts Identification

Full Suspension Bicycle

Get to know the parts of your bicycle. This will help with assembly, maintenance, and troubleshooting. Color, style and parts may vary.

Part name

1 Handle grip

Torque

(in. lb)

-

Part name

13 Valve stem

Torque

(in. lb)

-

Part name

29 Freewheel

Torque

(in. lb)

-

2 Rear brake lever

3 Shifter

55 - 70

-

14 Tire

15 Spoke -

30 Linear brake assembly

30A Brake cable pinch bolt

-

50-70

4 Handlebar

5 Brake and gear cables -

16 Rim

17 Fork dropout -

-

30B Brake pad

30C Brake pad hardware

-

50-60

6 Stem binder bolt

7 Handlebar binder bolt(s)

100-120

145-200

18 Front fork

19 Front suspension -

30D Brake spring

30E Brake pivot bolt

-

17-20

8 Stem

9 Headset

-

175-260

20 Rear coil spring suspension

21 Front derailleur -

-

31 Saddle (seat) -

32 Seat post attaching hardware 130-170

10 Caliper brake assembly

10A Brake cable pinch bolt

50 - 70

50 - 70

22 Pedal

23 Crank arm (1-piece)

300-360

300

33 Seat post

34 Seat post quick-release

-

60-80

10B Brake pads

10C Brake pads hardware

-

50 - 60

23A Crank arm (3-piece)

24 Bottom bracket lockring

390

300

34A Seat post bolted clamp (opt.) -

11 Disc brake

12 Wheel axle nut (front)

70-85

180-240

25 Chain wheel

26 Chain -

-

12A Wheel quick-release (option)

12B Wheel axle nut (rear)

-

240-300

27 Chain stay

28 Rear derailleur -

-

14

30E

30B 30A

30D

30C

28 29 12B

30

32

33

34

31

34A

6

7

1

4

19

26 25 24

27

23

23A

22

21

20

18

17

20

16

15

14

Parts Identification 2

5

3

2

10

11 12

10B

10C

12A

10A

13

15

3 Assembly

Assembly

WARNING!

• Improper assembly of this product may result in serious injury or death. Always follow the instructions in this manual and check critical components (e.g. wheels, seat, pedals, brakes, derailleurs, tires) before each use.

• We recommend that you consult a bicycle specialist if you have doubts or concerns as to your experience or ability to properly assemble, repair, or maintain your bicycle. If your bicycle was obtained assembled, we recommend that you read these instructions and perform checks specified in this manual before riding.

Your new bicycle was assembled and tuned in the factory and then partially disassembled for shipping. You may have purchased the bicycle already fully assembled and ready to ride or in the shipping carton in the partially disassembled form.

The following instructions will enable you to prepare your bicycle for years of enjoyable cycling.

For more details on inspection, lubrication, maintenance and adjustment of any area please refer to the relevant sections in this manual. If you have questions about your ability to properly assemble this unit, please consult a qualified specialist before riding.

If you need replacement parts or have questions pertaining to the assembly of your bicycle, call the service line direct at:

1-800-626-2811. Monday - Friday 8:00 am to 5:00 pm Central

Standard Time (CST).

TOOLS REQUIRED

• Phillips head screw driver

• 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm and 8 mm Allen wrench

• Adjustable wrench or a 9 mm, 10 mm, 14 mm and 15 mm open and box end wrenches

• A pair of pliers with cable cutting ability

Figure 3.1

16

GETTING STARTED

Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle.

Figure 3.2

Remove the straps and protective packaging from the bicycle. Important! Do not discard packing materials until assembly is complete to ensure that no required parts are accidentally discarded.

Inspect the bicycle and all accessories and parts for possible shortages. It is recommended that the threads and all moving parts in the parts package be lubricated prior to installation.

Note: We recommend using a lithium based grease on the parts before assembly.

Seat

Seat post

Handlebar assembly

Frame

Assembly 3

Pedals

Front wheel

Figure 3.2

3 Assembly

ATTACH THE HANDLEBAR

WARNING!

• Improper attachment of the handlebar may result in damage to the stem post, steerer tube and result in loss of control, serious injury or death. Ensure the minimum

insertion marks on the stem post are not visible above the top of the headset.

• Failure to properly tighten handlebar components may result in loss of control, serious injury or death. Always check the handlebar cannot move and is secured to the frame before riding the bicycle.

There are two types of stems that attach the handlebar to the steerer tube. It is either a quill or clamp (threadless) stem.

Attaching a Quill Stem

Turn the front fork to face forward. Figure 3.3

Position the handlebar assembly over the steerer tube.

Look at all the cables to be sure they run in a smooth arc from the shifter or brake lever to the front brake or cable stop on the frame. Important! If they are twisted or kinked, the shifting and braking will not work.

Insert the stem post into the steerer tube and adjust the handlebar height until the rider feels they have control of the bicycle and are comfortable. See Section 1, Fig. 1.2:

Seat Height and Handlebar Reach for guidelines.

18

Important! Be sure the minimum insertion marks do not go above the top of the headset and are not visible.

Using a 6 mm Allen wrench tighten the stem binder bolt at the top of the stem post. Check the handlebar binder bolt(s) to be sure they are properly tightened and the handlebar is clamped in place. Note: See Section 4: Adjusting the

Handlebar if adjustments are needed.

Handlebar binder bolt(s)

3

Stem binder bolt

2

Stem post

Headset

Steerer tube

1

Minimum insertion marks

Front fork facing forward

Figure 3.3

Attaching a Threadless Stem

Important! Do not disassemble the headset or lose any parts.

Be sure the end of the fork is on the ground or being held with your free hand, because once you loosen the top cap the fork assembly may fall out of the frame.

Turn the front fork to face forward (ie: the fork dropout is in the furthest forward position). Figure 3.3

Using a 5 mm Allen wrench loosen the top cap bolt on the steerer tube and remove the top cap and bolt. Important!

Do not remove the spacers. Figure 3.4

Position the handlebar assembly over the steerer tube. Look at all the cables to be sure they run in a smooth arc from the shifter or brake lever to the front brake or cable stop on the frame. Important! If they are twisted or kinked, the shifting and braking will not work.

While holding the fork assembly in place, use a 6 mm Allen wrench and loosen the stem pinch bolts. Slide the handlebar assembly onto the steerer tube.

Align and center the stem to the fork and wheel. Tighten the stem pinch bolts until there is no play between the stem and stem tube. Note: There should be a 3 to 5 mm (1/8" - 3/16") gap between the top of the stem and stem post. Figure 3.5

Place the top cap onto the top of the steerer tube. Insert and tighten the top cap bolt until it is snug. Do not over

tighten.

Assembly 3

Using a 5 mm Allen wrench tighten the top cap bolt. Do the following checks to determine if the headset is properly set.

Tighten or loosen the top cap bolt if necessary.

• Lift up the front wheel of the bicycle, if the wheel does

not move freely left to right the headset is too tight.

• Hold the handlebar, close the brakes and rock the fork back and forth. If you hear a knock or clunking sound the headset is too loose.

Note: If needed, see Section 4: Adjusting the Headset for more detailed information. See Section 4: Adjusting the

Handlebar for information on aligning the handlebar.

Top cap and bolt

2

Stem

Stem pinch bolts

Spacers

4

Steerer tube

Headset

3

1/8" - 3/16"

(3 - 5 mm)

5

Figure 3.5

Figure 3.4

3 Assembly

ATTACH THE LOCKON GRIPS

Follow these steps if your bicycle is equipped with lockon grips.

Clean the handlebar surface.

Slide the lockon grip over the handlebar as far as it can go.

Note: Rotate the clamp so the clamp screws are on the underside of the handlebar. Figure 3.6

Adjust the grip to how you want it to feel.

Using a 2.5 mm Allen wrench tighten the clamps on both ends of the lockon grip. Check the grip is securely attached and does not rotate or slip.

Snap the lockon grip cap onto the end of the lockon grip.

Repeat steps 1 - 5 for the second lockon grip.

Lockon grip cap

5

Lockon grips

4

2

Figure 3.6

20

Assembly 3

ATTACH THE BRAKE CABLES

WARNING!

Failure to properly set the brakes may result in the inability to stop the bicycle movement and cause serious injury or death. Be sure the brakes are functioning properly before using the bicycle.

There are three brake options, Caliper, Linear Pull, and Disc.

Follow these steps if the brake cables are not attached to the brake levers:

Rotate the cable adjustment barrel and cable nut until the slots are aligned with the slot on the brake lever body.

Figure 3.7

Press the brake lever towards the grip.

Slide the brake cable through the slots and place the cable head into the brake lever. Figure 3.8

Release the brake lever. Figure 3.9

Lightly pull on the cable and rotate the cable nut and cable barrel so they are no longer aligned.

Note: See Section 4: Adjusting the Brakes if adjustments are needed.

Cable adjustment barrel slot

Cable nut slot

1

Brake cable slot

5

3

Brake cable Cable head

2

Brake lever

Figure 3.7

4

Figure 3.8

Figure 3.9

3 Assembly

ATTACH THE FRONT WHEEL

There are two types of front wheel assemblies; nutted and

quick-release. Note: Quick-release wheels may be on both the front and rear wheels or just one. Also, some tire tread patterns have a direction, so compare your front tire and rear tire of the bicycle so that both tread patterns face the same way.

Nutted Front Wheel

Position the front wheel between the front fork legs with the axle resting inside the fork drop outs. Note: If the front wheel has a disc brake insert the disc rotor into the slot on the caliper body as you insert the wheel axle into the fork drop out. Important! Be sure the wheel is as centered as possible between the fork legs. Figure 3.11

Place the axle washers on the axle and slide it up against the fork drop out. Figure 3.10

Attach the two axle nuts on the axle. Tighten one nut part way, then tighten the other nut. Repeat until both sides are tightened securely. Be sure that the wheel is centered between the fork legs.

If the wheel is off center, loosen the axle nut on the side that has a smaller gap between tire and fork leg and use your hand to push the wheel to a centered position; hold the wheel with one hand and tighten the axle nut and check again. Repeat if needed to be sure the wheel is centered and securely tightened.

22

3

2

Axle

Disc rotor

Nut

Disc brake caliper body

Figure 3.11

1

Fork

Dropout

Axle washer

2

3

Axle nut

Figure 3.10

Quick-release Front Wheel

WARNING!

• All quick-release levers should be inspected before every ride to be sure they are fully closed and secure. Failure to properly close a quick-release lever can cause loss of control of the bicycle resulting in injury or death.

• Make sure the wheel is properly seated and the quick-release lever is properly closed.

Some tire tread patterns have a direction, so compare your front tire and rear tire of the bicycle so that both tread patterns face the same way.

Locate the skewer from the small parts carton of your bicycle. Figure 3.12

Unscrew the adjustment nut from the skewer, remove outer spring and slide the skewer through the front wheel axle so the quick-release lever is on the side of the bike opposite the chain.

Slide the outer spring over the end of the skewer. Note: The smaller end should be in towards the wheel.

Begin to thread the adjustment nut back onto the skewer, but do not tighten too far. Allow enough play so you can place the axle into the fork drop out.

Assembly 3

Slide the wheel into the fork dropout slots. Note: If you have a wheel with disc brakes insert the disc rotor into the center of the disc brake at the same time you are inserting the wheel axle into the fork drop out.

Important! Be sure the wheel is as centered as possible between the fork legs.

Outer spring

4

6

Front fork

Skewer Inner

2

spring

Quick-release lever

3

Adjustment nut

Disc rotor

Caliper body

Figure 3.13

Figure 3.12

3 Assembly

Move the quick-release lever into the open position. With one hand on the quick-release lever and one hand on the adjustment nut, start to hand tighten the adjustment nut until you start to feel some resistance against the fork.

Figure 3.14

Try to close the quick-release lever. If it closes easily, open it up and tighten the adjustment nut further. If it is too difficult to close, open the quick-release lever up and loosen the adjustment nut a little and try again. Do not attempt to tighten by turning the quick-release lever. The quick-release lever is for closing, the adjustment nut is for adjusting the tension.

Important! You should feel resistance when you close the quick-release lever that should leave a temporary impression on your fingers. Open and close the handle to ensure the wheel is securely locked in place.

Re-check that the handlebars are perpendicular to the front wheel. Adjust if needed.

Quick-release lever in closed position

7

Important! Only tighten the quick-release with the adjustment nut.

Quick-release lever in the open position

Figure 3.14

24

Assembly 3

ATTACH THE SEAT

WARNING!

Improperly adjusted seat height could affect the rider’s ability to reach the handlebar and pedals resulting in unexpected movement, loss of control and serious injury or death. Follow these guidelines when adjusting the seat height. Always ensure the seat post minimum insertion marks are below the seat clamp and cannot be seen. Ensure the seat clamp is locked and the seat cannot move.

There are two kinds of seat clamps; bolted and quick-release, and two kinds of seat posts standard, micro-adjust. The seat assembly should be adjusted with the seat centered on the rails and level. It is recommended to add some grease to all threads and binders on a bicycle, especially on the outside of the seat post. Otherwise it may corrode over time and not be able to be adjusted again.

Bolted Seat Clamp

Using a 5 mm Allen wrench, loosen the seat clamp bolt and insert the seat post into the seat tube. Figure 3.15

Adjust the seat height up or down until the rider feels they have control of the bicycle and are comfortable.

Important! Be sure the minimum insertion marks do not go past the top of the seat clamp and are not visible. See

Section 1, Fig. 1.2: Seat Height and Handlebar Reach.

Tighten the seat clamp bolt to lock the seat in place.

Check the seat to be sure it does not move.

Use a 5 mm Allen wrench to loosen and tighten the seat clamp

1

Seat tube

2

Minimum insertion marks

Figure 3.15

3 Assembly

Quick-release Seat Clamp

Unlock the quick-release lever and insert the seat post into the seat tube. Figure 3.16

Adjust the seat height up or down until the rider feels they have control of the bicycle and are comfortable.

Important! Be sure the minimum insertion marks do not go past the top of the seat clamp and are not visible. See

Section 1, Fig. 1.2: Seat Height and Handlebar Reach.

Close the quick-release lever and lock the seat in place.

If there is not enough pressure to hold the seat in place open the quick-release lever. With one hand on the quickrelease lever and one hand on the adjustment nut, start to hand tighten the adjustment nut until you start to feel some resistance against the seat post clamp. Do not attempt to tighten by turning the quick-release lever. The quick-release lever is for closing, the adjustment nut is for adjusting the pressure. Figure 3.17

Try to close the quick-release lever. If it closes easily, open it up and tighten the adjustment nut further. If it is too difficult to close, open the quick-release lever up and loosen the adjustment nut a little and try again.

Important! You should feel resistance when you close the quick-release lever that should leave a temporary impression on your fingers. Open and close the handle to ensure the seat is securely locked in place.

26

Seat post

Minimum insertion marks on the seat post

Adjustment nut

Quick-release lever

Seat tube

2

3

1

Quick-release seat clamp

Figure 3.16

Minimum insertion marks

Figure 3.17

Assembly 3

Micro Adjust Seat with Pillar Seat Post

Place the bottom plate on the pillar seat post. Be sure the holes in the bottom plate and the holes in the seat post are aligned. Figure 3.18

Place the washer on the hex bolt and insert the bolt through the bottom hole of the pillar seat post and bottom plate.

Place the rails of seat into the grooves of the bottom plate.

Place the top plate over the top of the seat rails. The hex bolt should be inserted through the hole in the top plate.

Insert the square nut onto the hex bolt and tighten completely.

Insert the pillar seat post into the seat tube and adjust the seat height up or down until the rider feels they have control of the bicycle and are comfortable.

Important! Be sure the minimum insertion marks do not go past the top of the seat clamp and are not visible. See

Section 1, Fig. 1.2: Seat Height and Handlebar Reach.

Lock the seat in place. Note: Refer to the section that pertains to your seat clamping device (bolted or quickrelease) on the previous page for instructions.

Check the seat to be sure it does not move.

2

5

Square nut

4

Top plate

1

Bottom plate

6

3

Seat rails

Quick-release seat clamp

7

Pillar seat post

6

Bolted seat clamp

Figure 3.18

3 Assembly

ATTACH THE PEDALS

WARNING!

• Attachment of an incorrect pedal into a crank arm can strip pedal threads and cause irreparable damage. Visually match the R and L stickers on the pedal and crank arm before attaching the pedals. Before your first ride, please check to ensure your pedals are attached correctly.

• It is very important that you check the crank set for correct adjustment and tightness before riding your bicycle.

Match the pedal marked R with the right-hand crank arm and match the pedal marked L with the left-hand crank arm.

Figure 3.19

Place the threaded pedal into the threaded hole on the crank arm.

By hand, slowly turn the spindle the correct direction.

Clockwise for right side pedal, counterclockwise for left side pedal. Important! Stop if you feel resistance! This may be an indication the spindle is entering the hole at an angle. Remove the spindle and repeat step two.

If the spindle is entering the hole cleanly then use a 15 mm wrench or pliers to tighten completely.

Remove the dust caps and tighten the crank axle nuts using a 15 mm wrench.

28

1

Note:

The left pedal turns counter-clockwise and the

right pedal turns clockwise.

3

2

1

5

3

2

Figure 3.19

Adjustments 4

Adjustments

After your bicycle is assembled you will need to make adjustments. If you need replacement parts or have questions pertaining to the assembly of your bicycle, call the service line direct at: 1-800-626-2811. Monday - Friday 8:00 am to 5:00 pm

Central Standard Time (CST).

Note: You will need your model number and date code located on the service sticker near the bottom bracket area. Figure 4.1

TOOLS REQUIRED

• Phillips head screw driver

• 2.5 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm and 8 mm Allen wrench

• Adjustable wrench or a 9 mm, 10 mm, 14 mm and 15 mm open and box end wrenches

• A pair of pliers with cable cutting ability

Service sticker is located above the bottom bracket

The serial number is located below the bottom bracket

Figure 4.2

Figure 4.1

4 Adjustments

ADJUSTING THE BRAKES

WARNING!

Failure to properly set the brakes may result in the inability to stop the bicycle movement and cause serious injury or death. Be sure the brakes are functioning properly before using the bicycle.

Adjusting Linear Pull Brakes

Attaching the Brake Cable to the Brake Carrier

Squeeze the two brake arms together until the brake pads touch the wheel rim. Figure 4.3

With your other hand, pull on the brake cable and insert the end of the “noodle” into the brake carrier.

Adjusting the Brake Pads

Check the brake cable is seated in the brake lever. Using a

5 mm Allen wrench loosen the cable anchor bolt enough so the brake cable can move freely. Figure 4.4

Pull the brake cable through the cable anchor so the left brake arm moves towards the rim and there is approximately a 1/8” (3 mm) gap between the brake pad and rim.

Move the right brake arm towards the rim until there is approximately a 1/8” (3 mm) gap between the brake pad and rim.

Using the 5 mm Allen wrench, firmly tighten the cable anchor bolt completely.

End of “noodle” in the brake carrier

Brake carrier

2

1

Brake arm

Brake cable

Brake arm

1/8” gap

(both pads)

Wheel rim

3

Cable anchor bolt

4

5 mm Allen wrench

5

Figure 4.3

Figure 4.4

30

Important! Before riding the bicycle it is important to check the brakes. If you squeeze the brake lever and one brake arm moves more than the other (or not at all) the brake is not centered. You will need to fine-tune the brake pads. Multiple adjustments may be necessary to center the brake pads, correctly set the brake pressure and set the gap between the brake pad and rim.

Adjust the Brake Pad Alignment

Check that all brake pads are aligned correctly. If not, use a

5 mm Allen wrench and loosen the bolt enough so you can reposition the pad. Position the pad so it is evenly centered on the rim. Retighten the bolt after positioning the pad correctly.

Figure 4.5

Incorrect Alignment

Adjustments 4

Center the Brake Pads

Rotate the wheel and look straight down at the gap between the rim, brake pads and fork. If you find the gap between these are uneven it indicates the wheel, the brake pads, or both are not centered.

If you see the gap between the fork and wheel is uneven loosen the axle nuts and adjust the wheel until centered.

Figure 4.6

Correct Alignment

1

Even space between wheel and fork

(both sides)

Wheel should be centered

Figure 4.5

Figure 4.6

4 Adjustments

If the gap between the brake pad and wheel is uneven, adjust the position of the brake pad.

• Using a phillips head screwdriver, adjust the brake arm screws on either side of the brake arm. Note: Turning the screw clockwise moves the pad away from the rim.

Turning the screw counterclockwise moves the pad towards the rim. Figure 4.7

• Start with the side where the pad is closest to the rim or is not moving properly. Turn the screw to move the pad towards or away from the rim.

• Adjustments to these screws should be made in small increments, one-quarter to one-half turn then checked by activating the brake lever three to four times after each adjustment. If you continue to adjust the screw until you have noticeable movement you will run out of adjustment.

Pull and release the brake lever a few times and check if the pads are centered.

If necessary, repeat steps one through three until the brake pads are centered and the gap between the pads and rim is close to 1/8 inch.

Note: If you run out of adjustment capability on one side, adjust the screw on the opposite side. If you run out of adjustment capability on both screws do a minor adjustment to the brake cable. Adjustments should be made to each side as equally as possible to prevent running out of adjustment capability.

32

Brake arm screw

2

Even space between brake pad and wheel

Brake arm screw

Figure 4.7

Adjusting the Side-pull Caliper Brake

Attaching the Brake Cable to the Brake Carrier

If the brake cable is disconnected at the caliper, thread the brake wire through the adjustment barrel. Figure 4.8

Loosen the cable anchor bolt until you can see a gap large enough for the cable wire.

Thread the cable wire through the gap. By hand, screw the cable anchor bolt snug enough to hold the cable wire.

Check the cable end is seated in the brake lever.

With one hand squeeze the caliper arms until both brake pads contact the rim. Loosen the cable anchor bolt just enough to allow the cable wire to move freely.

While holding the caliper closed, use your other hand to pull the brake cable tight (through the cable anchor bolt).

Check that the cable end is seated in the brake lever and the barrel adjuster of the brake.

Tighten the cable anchor bolt as much as you can by hand and then while still squeezing the caliper arms until both brake pads contact the rim, tighten the cable anchor bolt fully with a 10 mm box wrench. Note: Use the adjustment barrel(s) to fine-tune the brake cable tension. Turning the barrel clockwise will loosen the brake cable tension, counterclockwise will tighten the brake cable tension. Figure 4.9

Side-pull caliper brake

Caliper arms

5

Brake cable end at brake lever

4

Figure 4.9

Adjustments 4

1

Brake cable

Cable adjustment barrel

2

Cable anchor bolt

3

Cable wire

Brake pad

Wheel rim

Figure 4.8

4 Adjustments

Adjusting the Brake Pads

Important! Before riding the bicycle it is important to check the brakes. If you squeeze the brake lever and one brake arm moves more than the other (or not at all) the brake is not centered. You will need to fine-tune the brake pads. Multiple adjustments may be necessary to center the brake pads, correctly set the brake pressure and set the gap between the brake pad and rim.

Check that all brake pads are aligned correctly. If not, use a

5 mm Allen wrench and loosen the bolt enough so you can reposition the pad. Position the pad so it is evenly centered on the rim. Retighten the bolt after positioning the pad correctly. Figure 4.10

Incorrect Alignment

Center the Brake Pads

Rotate the wheel and look straight down at the gap between the rim, brake pads and fork. If you find the gap between these are uneven it indicates the wheel, the brake pads, or both are not centered.

If you see the gap between the fork and wheel is uneven loosen the axle nuts and adjust the wheel until centered.

Figure 4.11

Wheel should be centered

Even space between wheel and fork

(both sides)

Correct Alignment

Axle nut

1

Figure 4.10

Figure 4.11

34

If the gap between the brake pad and wheel is uneven, adjust the cable tension. Figure 4.13

2a

Loosen the cable anchor nut.

2b

Using one hand, squeeze the brake pads against

the rim.

2c

Pull the slack out of the cable.

2d

While holding tension on the cable, tighten the cable

anchor nut.

Note: Watch the brake if it begins to shift or rotate, then release the brake lever and use your hand to rotate the brake caliper back until both sides of the brake move equally. Sometimes it is necessary to over-rotate the brake slightly, so that as you tighten the caliper locknut, the brake will end up centered. Figure 4.12

Pull and release the brake lever a few times and check if the pads are centered.

If necessary, repeat steps one through three until the brake pads are centered and the gap between the pads and rim is close to 1/8 inch.

Distance from brake pad to wheel rim 1/8”

4

Caliper locknut

Brake pad locknut

Brake pads

Tire

Wheel rim

Figure 4.12

3

1

Adjustments 4

2a

Cable anchor nut

2c Cable

Figure 4.13

4 Adjustments

Check the Brakes

After adjusting the brake, squeeze the brake lever as hard as you can several times and re-inspect the brake pads, centering and brake lever travel. If the brake pads are no longer square to the rim, repeat brake pad adjustments.

Figure 4.14

Be sure that brake pads return to a centered position by spinning the wheel and listening for the brake pad rubbing the rim on either side. Re-adjust as needed.

Check that the brake cable tension allows the brake lever about 1/3 of the travel before the brake pads contact the rim. If the cable has stretched or slipped, re-adjust the brake cable tension by loosening cable anchor bolt and pulling more cable through the anchor or use brake adjustment barrels for fine tuning brake cable tension.

Brake is correctly adjusted when:

• The brake pads do not drag on the rim when the brake is open. Figure 4.15

• Both brake pads move away from the rim equally when the brake is released.

• When the brake is applied, the brake pads contact the rim before the brake lever reaches about 1/3 of the way to the handlebar.

1/3 distance to handlebar

Equal space between brake pad and the rim on both sides

Brake pads

Wheel rim

36

1

3

2

Figure 4.14

Figure 4.15

8

6

3

Adjusting the Disc Brake

WARNING!

• Disc brakes are sharp, keep fingers away from the brake caliper and rotor. If fingers contact the disc brake while the wheel is turning serious injury may occur.

Important! Different types of disc brakes may require specific adjustments not covered in this section. If you are unsure of what needs to be done see a qualified bicycle mechanic.

Misalignment of the disc brake may be due to the following:

• The wheel is not centered.

• The caliper body is misaligned.

• The brake pads are not centered.

Center the Wheel

Rotate the wheel and look at the gap between the rim and fork. If the gap is uneven, loosen the axle nuts and adjust until the wheel and disc rotor are centered. Figure 4.16

Adjustments 4

Realign the Caliper Body

Using a 5 mm Allen wrench, loosen the two centering adjustment screws. Adjust the caliper body until the gap between the disc rotor and the brake pads in the caliper body is even (1/32" per side). Figure 4.17

Tighten the centering adjustment screws. Figure 4.18

1/32 inch clearance on each side of disc rotor

1

2

Centering adjustment screws

Wheel should be centered

Even space between wheel and fork

(both sides)

Figure 4.16

Brake pad

Disc rotor Adjust caliper body so disc rotor is centered

Figure 4.17

Centering adjustment screws

2

Figure 4.18

4 Adjustments

Center the Brake Pads

Insert a 1/32" spacer gage between the disc rotor and brake pad. Figure 4.19

Using a 2.5 mm Allen wrench, loosen the set screw.

Using a 5 mm Allen wrench, turn the brake pad adjustment screw to move the brake pad. Turning the pad clockwise moves it towards the disc rotor, counterclockwise moves the pad away from the disc rotor.

Adjust the pad until the gap between the disc rotor and the brake pads are even (1/32" per side).

Re-tighten the set screw.

Attaching the Brake Cable to the Brake Arm

If the brake cable wire is not attached to the brake arm then loosen the cable anchor bolt until you an see a gap large enough for the brake cable wire. Figure 4.20

Pull on the brake cable wire and place it under the cable anchor bolt.

Tighten the cable anchor bolt. Note: The brake cable should

not be "pulling" on the brake arm.

1/32 inch clearance on each side of disc rotor

4

3

Brake pad adjustment screw

Figure 4.19

2

1

Brake cable wire

Brake arm

3

Cable anchor bolt

Figure 4.20

38

2

Set screw

Adjustments 4

Adjusting the Cable Tension

Check that the brake cable tension allows the brake lever about 1/3 of the travel before the brake pads contact the disc rotor. If the cable has stretched or slipped, re-adjust the brake cable tension. Figure 4.21

At the caliper body, or brake lever, slightly loosen the jam nut that is next to the adjustment barrel. Figure 4.22

Turn the adjustment barrel to adjust the cable tension.

Turning clockwise will loosen the brake cable tension, counter-clockwise will tighten the brake cable tension.

Re-check that the brake cable tension allows the brake lever about 1/3 of the travel before the brake pads contact the disc rotor. When you have the brake tension you want then tighten the jam nut.

Brake is correctly adjusted when:

• The brake pads do not drag on the disc rotor.

• Both brake pads move away from the disc rotor equally when the brake is released.

• When the brake is applied, the brake pads contact the disc rotor before the brake lever reaches about 1/3 of the way to the handlebar.

After brake adjustment, squeeze the brake lever as hard as you can several times and re-inspect if the wheel and brake pads are centered. If necessary, repeat brake adjustments.

1/3 distance to handlebar

1

Caliper body

3

2

Brake cable

3

2

Adjustment barrel

Jam nut

Figure 4.21

Figure 4.22

8

6

3

4 Adjustments

ADJUSTING THE DERAILLEUR

WARNING!

Ensure all bolts are secured tightly and the chain does not fall off in either direction.

Although the front and rear derailleur are initially adjusted at the factory, you will need to inspect and re-adjust them before riding the bicycle.

Adjust the Rear Derailleur

Begin by shifting the rear shifter to largest number indicated and place the chain on the smallest sprocket. Figure 4.23

Adjust the high limit screw so the guide pulley and the smallest sprocket are lined up vertically. Figure 4.24

Shift through the gears, making sure each gear achieved is done quietly and without hesitation. If necessary, use the barrel adjuster to fine-tune each gear by turning it the direction you want the chain to go. For example, turning clockwise will loosen the cable tension and move the chain away from the wheel, while turning counter-clockwise will tighten cable tension and direct the chain towards the wheel.

Shift the rear shifter to gear one and place the chain on the largest cog.

Adjust the low limit screw in quarter turn increments until the guide pulley and the largest cog are aligned vertically.

Again, shift through each gear several times, checking that each gear is achieved smoothly. It may take several attempts before the rear derailleur and cable are adjusted properly.

Front shifter

Rear shifter

High limit screw

2

3 2

6

Low limit screw

3

Barrel adjuster

6

3

Figure 4.23

1

Smallest sprocket

5

Largest sprocket

Anchor bolt

Cable

Guide pulley

Figure 4.24

40

Adjust the Front Derailleur

WARNING!

Do not ride a bicycle that is not shifting properly. Overlooking proper adjustments may cause irreparable damage to the bicycle and/or bodily injury. Never move the shifter while pedaling standing up, or under heavy load, nor pedal backwards after having moved the shifter. This could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle and/or rider.

Shift both shifters to the smallest number indicated and place the chain on the corresponding cog and chainwheel.

Disconnect the front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt. Figure 4.25

Check the position of the front derailleur; it should be parallel with the outer chainwheel and clear the largest chainwheel by 1-3 mm when fully engaged.

With the chain on the smallest chainwheel in front and the largest cog in back, adjust the low limit screw so the chain is centered in the front derailleur cage.

Reconnect the cable, pull any slack out and tighten the cable anchor bolt securely.

Shift the front shifter to the largest chainwheel. If the chain does not go onto the largest chainwheel, turn the high limit screw in 1/4 turn increments counter-clockwise until the chain engages the largest chainwheel.

Adjustments 4

If the chain falls off the largest chainwheel and into the pedals, you will need to turn the high limit screw in 1/4 turn increments clockwise until the chain no longer falls off.

Shift through every gear, using the barrel adjusters to fine-tune each transition. The barrel adjuster for the front derailleur is located on the front shifter where the cable comes out of the shifter. Clockwise will loosen the cable tension and direct the chain closer to the frame while counter-clockwise will tighten the cable tension and direct the chain away from the frame.

Cable anchor bolt

2

Barrel adjuster

7

1-3 mm clearance between chain wheel and chain guide

3

Chain guide

Chain wheel

Figure 4.25

4 Adjustments

ADJUSTING THE SEAT HEIGHT

WARNING!

Improperly adjusted seat height could affect the rider’s ability to reach the handlebar and pedals may result in an unexpected movement, loss of control, serious injury or death. Follow these guidelines when adjusting the seat height. Always ensure the seat post minimum insertion marks are below the seat clamp and cannot be seen. Ensure the seat clamp is locked and the seat cannot move.

Bolted Seat Clamp

Using a 5 mm Allen wrench, loosen the seat clamp bolt.

Figure 4.26

Adjust the seat height up or down until the rider feels they have control of the bicycle and are comfortable.

Important! Be sure the minimum insertion marks do not go past the top of the seat clamp and are not visible. See

Section 1, Fig. 1.2: Seat Height and Handlebar Reach.

Tighten the seat clamp bolt to lock the seat in place.

Check the seat to be sure it does not move.

Use a 5 mm Allen wrench to loosen and tighten the seat clamp

1

2

Seat tube

42

Minimum insertion marks

Figure 4.26

Adjustments 4

Quick-release Seat Clamp

Unlock the quick-release lever. Figure 4.27

Adjust the seat height up or down until the rider feels they have control of the bicycle and are comfortable.

Important! Be sure the minimum insertion marks do not go past the top of the seat clamp and are not visible. See

Section 1, Fig. 1.2: Seat Height and Handlebar Reach.

Close the quick-release lever and lock the seat in place.

If there is not enough pressure to hold the seat in place open the quick-release lever. With one hand on the quickrelease lever and one hand on the adjustment nut, start to hand tighten the adjustment nut until you start to feel some resistance against the post clamp. Do not attempt to tighten by turning the quick-release lever. The quick-release lever is for closing, the adjustment nut is for adjusting the pressure.

Figure 4.28

Try to close the quick-release lever. If it closes easily, open it up and tighten the adjustment nut further. If it is too difficult to close, open the quick-release lever, loosen the adjustment nut a little and try again.

Important! You should feel resistance when you close the quick-release lever that should leave a temporary impression on your fingers. Open and close the handle to ensure the seat is securely locked in place.

Seat post

Minimum insertion marks on the seat post

Adjustment nut

Quick-release lever

Seat tube

2

3

1

Quick-release seat clamp

Figure 4.27

Minimum insertion marks

Figure 4.28

4 Adjustments

ADJUSTING THE HANDLEBAR

WARNING!

• Improper adjustment of the handlebar may result in damage to the stem post, steerer tube and result in loss of control, serious injury or death. Ensure the minimum

insertion marks on the stem post are not visible above the top of the headset.

• Failure to properly tighten handlebar components may result in loss of control, serious injury or death. Always check the handlebar cannot move and is secured to the frame before riding the bicycle.

Adjusting the Handlebar Height

Instructions for adjusting the handlebar height depend on whether your bicycle has a quill or clamp (threadless) stem.

Refer to Section 3: Attach the Handlebar for instructions on adjusting the handlebar height. Figure 4.29

Stem binder bolt

Quill Stem Threadless Stem

Handlebar binder bolt(s)

Pinch binder bolts

Handlebar binder bolt(s)

Steerer tube

Figure 4.29

44

Align the Handlebar (with quill stem)

Stand in front of the handlebar and hold the front wheel between your legs.

Using a 6 mm Allen wrench, loosen the stem binder bolt and move the handlebars left or right until it is aligned with the front wheel. Figure 4.30

Tighten the stem binder bolt and check the handlebar is securely attached and cannot move.

Stem binder bolt

2

Move the handlebar left or right until it is aligned with the front wheel

Figure 4.30

Align the Handlebar (with threadless stem)

Stand in front of the handlebar and hold the front wheel between your legs.

Using a 6 mm Allen wrench, loosen the pinch binder bolts and move the handlebars left or right until it is aligned with the front wheel. Figure 4.31

Tighten the pinch binder bolts and check the handlebar is securely attached and cannot move.

Pinch binder bolts

2

Move the handlebar left or right until it is aligned with the front wheel

Adjustments 4

Adjust the Handlebar Angle (all stem types)

Using a 6 mm Allen wrench loosen the handlebar binder bolt(s). Figure 4.32

Rotate the handlebar into the desired position.

Check that the handlebar is centered to the frame and front wheel. Sit on the seat and check your reach to grips, shifters and brakes. Refer to Section 1, Fig. 1.2: Seat Height and

Handlebar Reach for guidelines.

Tighten the handlebar binder bolt(s) and check the handlebar is securely attached and cannot move.

1

Loosen handlebar binder bolt(s)

2

Figure 4.31

Figure 4.32

4 Adjustments

ADJUSTING THE HEADSET

The headset is an assembly of parts that connects the front fork and the head tube of the frame. It is the rotational interface that enables the fork to turn. There are two types of headsets:

threaded and threadless.

Adjusting a Threaded Headset

A typical threaded headset consists of two cups that are pressed into the top and bottom of the head tube. Inside the two cups are bearings which provide a low friction contact between the bearing cup and the steerer. The short tube through which the steerer of the fork passes is called the head tube.

Adjustment of the headset is needed if the headset is too loose

(shakiness), too tight (stiffness). Note: It is possible that the bearings have become worn or damaged and cause stiffness.

Replacement of the parts may be necessary.

Conduct the following checks to determine if there is play in the headset:

Shakiness: Apply the front brake and push the handlebars back and forth, front to back or if the bicycle is on a workstand and the front wheel removed, push and pull on the forks. If you feel a knocking sensation or "clunk" it means the headset is too loose. Important! Use care with suspension forks, because the legs may have play in sliders.

Grab upper portion of fork. Figure 4.33

Stiffness: Lift the front of the frame so the front wheel is off the ground. The handlebar and wheel should flop to one side or another. If there is drag or binding the headset is too tight.

Headset

1

2

Figure 4.33

46

Adjustments 4

With the front wheel resting on the ground, use an adjustable, or headset wrench and hold the upper threaded race in place. Figure 4.34

Loosen the locknut clockwise about 1/32nd of a turn.

Note: The front wheel must be straight to gauge adjustment.

By hand, screw the upper threaded race down until bearings begin to bind. Then back the race off about 1/8 turn.

Tighten the locknut and test that there is no shakiness or stiffness (ie. play) in the headset. Repeat steps 3 - 6 until there is no play in the headset.

If the play in the headset cannot be rectified with these adjustments see a qualified bicycle mechanic for these repairs.

Stem

Spacers

Top tube

Loosen top locknut

2

Hold upper threaded race in place

Figure 4.34

Locknut

Upper threaded race

Head tube

Lower race

Figure 4.35

4 Adjustments

Adjusting a Threadless Headset

Threadless headsets are similar to threaded headsets, they use two sets of bearings and bearing cups. Unlike a threaded headset, a threadless headset does not have an upper threaded race or use a threaded steerer tube. Instead the steerer tube extends from the fork all the way through the head tube and above the headset and is held in place by the stem clamped on top.

Conduct the following checks to determine if there is play in the headset:

Shakiness: Apply the front brake and push the handlebars back and forth, front to back or if the bicycle is on a workstand and the front wheel removed, push and pull on the forks. If you feel a knocking sensation or "clunk" it means the headset is too loose. Important! Use care with suspension forks, because the legs may have play in sliders.

Grab upper portion of fork. Figure 4.36

Stiffness: Lift the front of the frame so the front wheel is off the ground. The handlebar and wheel should flop to one side or another. If there is drag or binding the headset is too tight.

Headset

1

2

Figure 4.36

48

Loosen the top cap bolt and remove the top cap.

Important! Do not disassemble the headset or lose any parts. Be sure the end of the fork is on the ground or being held with your free hand, because once you loosen the top cap the fork assembly may fall out of the frame. Figure 4.36

Check that the gap between the top of the steerer tube and top of the stem is between 3 - 5 mm (1/8" - 3/16").

Figure 4.37

If the gap is not correct add or remove spacers until it is.

The stem needs to press down on the spacers in order to adjust the bearings. If the gap is correct then re-install the top cap and tighten the top cap bolt until it is snug. Do not

over tighten.

Slightly loosen the stem pinch bolts. The stem probably won't move but make sure the stem remains aligned with the fork and wheel.

Re-install and tighten the top cap down with a 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the top cap screw and test for shakiness in the headset. If there is still play in the headset then turn the top cap bolt another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Repeat this process until the shakiness is gone.

Lift up the front wheel of the bicycle, if the wheel does not move freely left to right the top cap bolt is too tight. If this is the case turn the top cap bolt back some.

Adjustments 4

Repeat steps 3 and 4 until there is no play in the headset. If the play in the headset cannot be rectified with these adjustments see a qualified bicycle mechanic for these

repairs.

Top cap bolt

Top cap

Stem pinch bolts

1

3

Star nut

Steerer tube

Spacers

Stem

1/8" - 3/16"

(3 - 5 mm)

2

Figure 4.37

Figure 4.38

4 Adjustments

ADJUST THE BOTTOM BRACKET

Three piece bottom bracket: Adjustable

Typically the bottom bracket contains four major pieces: lockring, adjustable cup, spindle and fixed cup. The lockring has notched rings and the adjustable cup may have holes for a pin spanner, or notches for a wrench. The fixed cup will have wrench flats, but no lockring. Cups and the spindle may be removed and replaced separately. A set of round ball bearings are found in each cup, typically eleven balls per side of 1/4 inch diameter.

This type of bracket may be cleaned, greased and adjusted.

Loosen the locknut. Turn adjusting cone counter-clockwise until it hits the ball bearing, then turn back clockwise to loosen 1/4 turn.

Secure the locknut.

Bearing Adjustment

The basic concept for bearing adjustments is to get the bearings adjusted as loose as possible but without play. Start by purposely beginning with play in the adjustment and then tightening in small increments until play is gone. Note: Extended use may cause the bearings, cups (or cones) to become worn and pitted.

In this case, bearing adjustment will not be possible. If bottom bracket is correctly adjusted, but grinds when spun, cups and/or cones are worn and should be replaced. Figure 4.39

Grab the end of the crankarms and rock it sideways to check for play. If play is present, loosen locknut and turn adjusting cone counter-clockwise slightly to tighten. Re-secure locknut and check again.

Repeat process of checking for play and re-tightening cone a slight amount until no play is felt. Note: The one-piece crank systems do not use a polished bearing system. There will be some roughness to a correctly adjusted bottom bracket.

Adjust as loose as possible but without play in the bearings.

Bottom bracket shown with crank arm removed

Lockring

Fixed cup

Bearings Spindle Bearings

Adjusting cup

Figure 4.39

50

Use 5

Use

WARNING!

Failure to follow all local and state regulations and laws pertaining to bicycle use as well as the safety warnings in this manual may result in serious injury or death. Always follow all local and state regulations and laws pertaining to bicycle use, follow the safety warnings in this manual and use common sense when riding the bicycle. Always conduct a pre-ride check of the bicycle condition before riding.

BRAKE OPERATION

WARNING!

• If the front brake is applied too quickly or too hard, the front wheel can stop turning resulting in a front pitch over or cause the bicycle to lose steering function leading to a crash.

• Disc brake rotors become hot during use and can burn the skin if contacted. Do not touch or come in contact with the disc rotor when it is hot. Allow it to cool before touching.

Hand operated brakes have a separate hand lever to operate front and rear brakes. Front hand brake levers are located on the left side of the handlebar, and rear hand brake levers are located on the right side of the handlebar. Figure 5.1

You may operate one brake at a time, or all together, however, be careful to pay close attention to front brakes locking up. To avoid this:

• Apply both brakes simultaneously, while shifting your body weight back slightly to compensate for braking force.

• As terrain changes, the rider must practice and learn how the bicycle will respond in a new terrain or weather change.

The same bicycle will react differently if it is wet, or if there is gravel on the road etc.

• Always test the brakes and be sure you feel comfortable with the reaction. If the riding conditions are too steep (off road for example) and you are unsure, dismount the bicycle and walk past the questionable terrain before riding again.

• Remember that as you apply the brakes your weight will want to shift forward, and the wheels will want to stop.

Note: See Section 4: Adjusting the Brakes for information on brake adjustment.

Left side brakes the front wheel

Right side brakes the rear wheel

3 2

6

3

Figure 5.1

5 Use

GEAR OPERATION

WARNING!

• Improper shifting can result in the chain jamming, or becoming derailed resulting in loss of control or a crash.

• Always be sure the chain is fully engaged in the desired gear before pedaling hard.

• Avoid shifting while standing up on the pedals or under load.

Multi speed bicycles can have internal or derailleur gear systems.

• Once you have successfully shifted gears, it is OK to start to pedal hard if desired.

• Pedaling hard while shifting can cause the chain to skip and not engage the appropriate gear.

• Backpedaling should be avoided on derailleur bikes because the chain can jam and cause the bike to become unstable.

See Assembly and Maintenance for further information on proper gear adjustment.

Important! Best practices for proper shifting:

• Pedal the bicycle with little pressure on the pedals, and move the shifter one gear at a time, ensuring that the chain is fully engaged in that gear before applying more pressure on the pedals.

• For bicycles with 3 front chain rings; avoid “Cross Chaining”, which is the position when the chain is in the smallest cog in the rear combined with the inner or smallest chain ring in the front, or the largest cog in the rear and the outer or largest chain ring in the front. These gear positions put the chain at the most extreme angle and can cause premature wear to the drivetrain. Bicycles with 3 front chain rings have enough gear “overlaps” that these gears are not needed. Figure 5.2

• It is OK to ride the whole time in only one gear if this is comfortable.

• Shift only while pedaling forward and seated. When shifting, lessen the pressure exerted on the pedals during the shift.

Three chain rings

Avoid these extreme angles of the chain

Figure 5.2

52

Use 5

Using the Rear Shifter

The rear shifter (right) will have an indicator that reads either

low to high or a series of numbers from 1 and up. Low or “1” is the lowest gear. This is used for slower riding, hill climbing, or to allow for easier pedaling. It is recommended to start off in this gear and move through the gears as speed increases as needed, or comfortable.

Using the Front Shifter

Note: Not all models have a front shifter. The front (left) shifter will have an indicator that reads either low to high or a series of numbers from 1 and up. Low or “1” is the lowest gear. The front shifter acts much like the rear shifter, but the change between gears is greater. This means that one shift at the rear derailleur will be a subtle change in pedaling speed, but one shift at the front derailleur will be a large change in pedaling speed. Think of the front shifter as a range; low and high or low, medium, and

high. Low is used for slower riding, hill climbing, or to allow for easier pedaling. It is recommended to start off in this gear and move through the gears as speed increases as needed, or comfortable.

To Use the Trigger-style Shifter

Rear shifter: Use your index finger to shift up to a higher gear, and your thumb to shift down to lower gear.

Left shifter: Use your index finger to shift down to a lower gear, and your thumb to shift up to higher gear. Figure 5.3

To Use the Twist-style Shifter

Turn the area of the handlebar grip closest to the gear numbers to the desired gear level. Figure 5.4

Front shifter

Trigger-style Shifter

Rear shifter

3 2

1

Pull down with index finger to shift gears

Front shifter

1

Twist to change gear level

Twist-style Shifter

6

3

Push in with thumb to shift gears

Figure 5.3

Rear shifter

Figure 5.4

5 Use

SECURITY

You just bought a new bicycle! Don’t lose it. It is advisable that the following steps be taken to prepare for and help prevent possible theft:

• Maintain a record of the bicycle’s serial number, generally located on the frame underneath the bottom bracket.

Figure 5.5

• Register the bicycle with the local police and/or bicycle registry.

• Invest in a high quality bicycle lock that will resist hacksaws and bolt cutters.

• Always lock your bicycle to an immovable object if it is left unattended. Keep in mind that individual parts of a bicycle may be stolen. Most commonly, if you lock just a wheel or just the frame, other parts may be removed from the bicycle.

Although it is impossible to lock all the parts, it is suggested to lock the major components if possible. Figure 5.6

• Use a lock that is long enough to lock the frame and both wheels if possible. Some models with quick-release front wheels allow the front wheel to be placed beside the frame so a smaller lock can be used to lock all 3 components.

• Be aware that a quick-release seat post can be stolen. It is recommended to remove the seat post and saddle and carry it with you if you believe that this is a risk.

The serial number is located below the bottom bracket

54

Service sticker is located above the bottom bracket

Figure 5.5

Figure 5.6

Maintenance 6

Maintenance

WARNING!

• Failure to conduct maintenance on the bicycle may result in malfunction of a critical part, serious injury or death.

Proper maintenance is critical to the performance and safe operation of the bicycle.

• The recommended intervals and need for lubrication and maintenance may vary depending on conditions the bicycle is exposed to. Always inspect the bicycle and conduct necessary maintenance before each use of the bicycle.

This section presents important information on maintenance and will assist you in determining the proper course of action to take if you do have a problem with the operation of the bicycle. If you have questions regarding maintenance please call our customer service, toll free, at 1-800-626-2811 or see a qualified bicycle mechanic. Do not call the store where the bicycle was purchased.

Correct routine maintenance of your new bike will ensure:

• Smooth running

• Longer lasting components

• Safer riding

• Lower running costs

BASIC MAINTENANCE

The following procedures will help you maintain your bicycle for years of enjoyable riding.

• For painted frames, dust the surface and remove any loose dirt with a dry cloth. To clean, wipe with a damp cloth soaked in a mild detergent mixture. Dry with a cloth and polish with car or furniture wax. Use soap and water to clean plastic parts and rubber tires. Chrome plated bikes should be wiped over with a rust preventative fluid.

• Store your bicycle under shelter. Avoid leaving it in the rain or exposed to corrosive materials.

• Riding on the beach or in coastal areas exposes your bicycle to salt which is very corrosive. Wash your bicycle frequently and wipe or spray all unpainted parts with an anti-rust treatment. Make sure wheel rims are dry so braking performance is not affected. After rain, dry your bicycle and apply anti-rust treatment. If the hub and bottom bracket bearings of your bicycle have been submerged in water, they should be taken out and re-greased. This will prevent accelerated bearing deterioration.

• If paint has become scratched or chipped to the metal, use touch up paint to prevent rust. Clear nail polish can also be used as a preventative measure.

• Regularly clean and lubricate all moving parts, tighten components and make adjustments as required.

55

6 Maintenance

MAINTAINING THE REAR SUSPENSION

Full-suspension bikes have pivots that allow the rear wheel to move independently from the frame. Some frames use a single pivot to achieve this function while others have multiple-pivot options. No matter how many pivots your bike has, it won’t work properly for very long if you don’t keep the bushings and bearings cleaned and lubricated.

Check the tightness of the pivots and linkage bolts. Too tight and the rear suspension won't move properly. Too loose and the bike wont ride well and may come apart while riding. Lubricate the pivots and linkage after every 10 hours of riding, or after every muddy or wet ride. Figure 5.1

Check the rear suspension (including swingarm, chainstays and shock mounts) for cracks or other damage. If anything feels loose after you tighten all the bolts, then the bushings or bearings are worn, and probably need to be replaced. Contact customer service for replacement parts.

56

Circled bolts are the pivot points that will need maintaining/adjusting

Figure 5.1

Advantages of Rear Suspension

Full suspension mountain bikes are much more comfortable, and better controlled when compared to their hardtail counterparts. Having the rear wheel travel up and over obstacles increases comfort and traction allowing for better performance.

Understanding Sag

In order to let the suspension work properly, we allow some of the rear-wheel travel to be used when supporting the rider’s weight, this is called ‘sag’. The basic idea is to have around

10-20% of your bike’s total travel as sag. This allows the rear wheel to drop into dips in the trail and maintain contact and traction.

Adjusting Sag on Rear Suspension

Changing the amount of sag in the rear suspension is done by increasing or decreasing the spring rate of the rear shock. The rear shock’s body is threaded and you will notice there is a nut on one end of the spring. Turning the nut in the direction that compresses the spring will increase the spring rate and reduce the amount of sag. Turning the nut in the direction that expands the spring will decrease the spring rate and increase the amount of sag. Never turn the nut to the point where there is space between it and the spring, this may cause damage to the shock.

Figure 5.2

Threaded nut on rear shock

Maintenance 6

Figure 5.2

57

6 Maintenance

LUBRICATION SCHEDULE

Component

Chains

Brake calipers

Brake levers

Freewheel

Derailleur Systems

Brake cables

Chain lube or light oil

Oil

Oil

Oil

Light oil or grease

Lithium based grease

Brake lever and caliper pivot points Light oil

Shifting cables

Bottom bracket

Pedals

Wheel bearings

Headset

Seat stem

Pedals: that can be disassembled

Lubricant

Thin layer of grease

Lithium based grease

Lithium based grease

Lithium based grease

Lithium based grease

Lithium based grease

Weekly

Disassemble

Disassemble

Disassemble

Disassemble

Disassemble

Method

Brush on or squirt

Three drops from oil can

Two drops from oil can

Two drops from oil can

All pivot points should be lubricated (more often in severely rainy or muddy conditions). Wipe off any excess oil.

Remove cable from casing. Grease entire length. Wipe off excess lubrication from other surfaces.

Two to three drops from oil can

Clean and grease

Yearly

See bicycle mechanic for maintenance.

Note: The frequency of maintenance should increase with use in wet or dusty conditions. Do not over lubricate. Remove excess lubricant to prevent dirt build up. Never use a degreaser to lubricate your chains (WD-40®).

58

Maintenance 6

PARTS MAINTENANCE

Tires

Inspect

Tire Inflation

Bead Seating

Tread

Valves

Frequency: Inspect and maintain at least each use.

Action

Check tire pressure.

Check the bead is properly seated while inflating or refitting the tire.

Spin wheel and check rotation / alignment is smooth and even.

Check for broken or loose spokes.

Maintenance

Inflate tire to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewall.

Reduce air pressure in the tube and re-seat the bead.

Loosen axle nut(s) and adjust until properly seated. If the hub bearings need repair see a bicycle mechanic for repair.

See bicycle mechanic for repair.

Inspect for signs of excessive wear, flat spots or cuts and damage.

Replace tire.

Check that valve caps are fitted and free of dirt.

Clean dirt from the valve.

Wheels

Inspect Action

Rims

Wheels

Inspect for dirt and grease.

Check the wheels are securely fastened to the bicycle and axle nuts are tight.

Spokes

Spin wheel and check rotation / alignment is true.

Check for broken or loose spokes.

Hub Bearings Lift each wheel and see if there is movement side to side.

Frequency: Inspect and maintain at least each use.

Maintenance

Use a clean rag or wash with soapy water, rinse, and air dry.

Adjust if necessary and tighten axle nuts.

See bicycle mechanic for repair.

See bicycle mechanic for repair.

See bicycle mechanic for repair.

59

6 Maintenance

Drivetrain (pedals, chains, chainwheel, crank set, freewheel)

Frequency: as noted

Inspect

Pedals

Action

Every month, check each pedal is securely set and tighten into the crank arm.

Pedal Bearings Every ride, check the pedal bearings are properly adjusted.

Move the pedal up and down, left and right. If looseness or roughness is detected adjustment, lubrication or replacement is required.

Chains

Before each ride, check each front and rear pedal reflectors are clean and in place.

Every week, check the chain is clean, properly lubricated, rust-free, and is not stretched, broken, or has stiff links.

Maintenance

If necessary, re-set and tighten.

Clean or replace.

See bicycle mechanic for repair.

Lubricate if necessary. Replace if rusted, stretched, or broken.

Crank Set Every month, check the crank set (crank arms, chain rings, and bottom bracket axle and bearings) is correctly adjusted and tight.

See bicycle mechanic for repair.

60

Maintenance 6

Brakes

Levers

Inspect

Pads

Cables

Action

Check the levers are securely fastened to the handlebar.

Check pad position, gap and pressure.

Check the outer casing for kinks, stretched coils and damage.

Check cables for kinks, rust, broken strands or frayed ends.

Check the outer casing for kinks, stretched coils and damage.

Check the housing is seated properly into each cable stop of the bicycle.

Frequency: Inspect and maintain before each use

Maintenance

Position the levers to fit the rider’s grip and screw tight to handlebar.

See Section 4: Adjusting the Brakes

Replace cable.

It is recommended that the cables and housing be replaced every riding season.

61

6 Maintenance

HUB BEARINGS

Hub bearings require special thin wrenches called cone

wrenches. If you do not own these tools, do not attempt hub bearing adjustments. Have a qualified bicycle mechanic perform the adjustment if you have any doubts.

Check to make sure neither locknut is loose.

To adjust, remove wheel from bicycle and loosen the locknut on one side of the hub while holding the bearing cone on the same side with a cone wrench.

Rotate the adjusting cone as needed to eliminate free play.

Re-tighten the locknut while holding the adjusting cone in position.

Re-check that the wheel can turn freely without excessive side play.

INFLATING THE TIRE TUBE

WARNING!

• An unseated tire can rupture unexpectedly and cause serious injury or death. Be sure the tire is properly seated when inflating the tube.

• Over-inflation or inflating the tube too quickly may result in the tire blowing off the rim and damaging the bicycle or causing injury to the rider. Always use a hand pump to inflate the tube. Do not use a gas station service pump to inflate the tube.

Follow these steps to inflate a tire:

Remove the valve cap and add air.

Check the tire is evenly seated on the rim, both sides.

Spin the wheel and check for high and low areas.

Complete inflation to the recommended psi found on the sidewall of the tire.

Be sure the tire is evenly seated on the rim, both sides. If not, release some air and repeat steps three through six.

Check for dirt in the valve cap or stem. Clean dirt from cap or stem.

Securely replace the valve cap on the stem.

62

Maintenance 6

REPAIRING A FLAT TIRE

WARNING!

An unseated tire can rupture unexpectedly and cause serious injury or death. Be sure the tire is properly seated when inflating the tube.

Follow these steps to fix a flat tire:

Match tube size and tire size (see tire sidewall for size).

Remove the wheel from the bicycle. Deflate the tire tube completely.

Squeeze the tire beads into the center of the rim.

Opposite the valve, use a bicycle tire lever to pry the tire bead up and out of the rim. Repeat around the wheel until one bead is off the rim.

Remove tube. Release second tire bead.

Remove tire.

Carefully inspect inside of the rim and tire for the cause of the flat.

Inflate the tube ¼ full and place inside tire.

Insert the valve stem through valve stem hole in rim.

Start at the valve stem and install the first bead onto the rim. Repeat for the second bead.

Slowly inflate the tire tube, checking the tire is seated properly and not pinched as the tire tube is inflated.

Inflate to recommended pressure (see tire sidewall).

63

6 Maintenance

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

Problem

Gear shifts not working properly

Slipping chain

Chain jumping off freewheel sprocket or chain wheel

Possible Cause

• Derailleur cables sticking/stretched/ damaged

• Front or rear derailleur not adjusted properly

• Indexed shifting not adjusted properly

• Excessively worn/chipped chain wheel or freewheel sprocket teeth

• Chain worn/stretched

• Stiff link in chain

• Non compatible chain/chain wheel freewheel

• Chain wheel out of true

• Chain wheel loose

• Chain wheel teeth bent or broken

• Rear or front derailleur side-to-side travel out of adjustment

• Cross chaining and shifting under load

Remedy

• Lubricate/tighten/replace cables

• Adjust derailleurs

• Adjust indexing

• Replace chain wheel, sprockets and chain

• Replace chain

• Lubricate or replace link

• Seek advice at a bicycle shop

• Re-true if possible, or replace

• Tighten mounting bolts

• Repair or replace chain wheel/set

• Adjust derailleur travel

Constant clicking noises when pedaling

Grinding noise when pedaling

• Stiff chain link

• Loose pedal axle/bearing

• Loose bottom bracket axle/bearings

• Bent bottom bracket or pedal axle

• Loose crankset

• Pedal bearings too tight

• Bottom bracket bearings too tight

• Chain fouling derailleurs

• Derailleur jockey wheels dirty/binding

• Lubricate chain/adjust chain link

• Adjust bearings/axle nut

• Adjust bottom bracket

• Replace bottom bracket axle or pedals

• Tighten crank bolts

• Adjust bearings

• Adjust bearings

• Adjust chain line

• Clean and lubricate jockey wheels

64

Maintenance 6

Problem

Freewheel does not rotate

Brakes not working effectively

When applying the brakes they squeal/ squeak

Knocking or shuddering when applying brakes

Wobbling wheel

Possible Cause

• Freewheel internal pawl pins are jammed

Remedy

• Lubricate. If problem persists, replace freewheel

• Brake pads worn down

• Brake pads/rim greasy, wet or dirty

• Brake cables are binding/stretched/damaged

• Brake levers are binding

• Brakes out of adjustment

• Brake pads worn down

• Brake pads toe-in incorrect

• Brake pads/rim dirty or wet

• Brake arms loose

• Bulge in the rim or rim out of true

• Brake mounting bolts loose

• Brakes out of adjustment

• Fork loose in head tube

• Axle broken

• Wheel out of true

• Hub comes loose

• Headset binding

• Hub bearings collapsed

• Quick-release mechanism loose

• Replace brake pads

• Clean pads and rim

• Clean/adjust/replace cables

• Adjust brake levers

• Center brakes

• Replace pads

• Correct pads toe-in

• Clean pads and rim

• Tighten mounting bolts

• True wheel or take to a bike shop for repair

• Tighten bolts

• Center brakes and/or adjust brake pads toe-in

• Tighten headset

• Replace axle

• True wheel

• Adjust hub bearings

• Adjust headset

• Replace bearings

• Adjust quick-release mechanism

65

6 Maintenance

Problem

Steering not accurate

Frequent punctures

Possible Cause

• Wheels not aligned in frame

• Headset loose or binding

• Front forks or frame bent

• Inner tube old or faulty

• Tire tread/casing worn

• Tire unsuited to rim

• Tire not checked after previous puncture

• Tire pressure too low

• Spoke protruding into rim

• Align wheels correctly

• Adjust/tighten headset

Remedy

• Take bike to a bike shop for possible frame realignment

• Replace inner tube

• Replace tire

• Replace with correct tire

• Remove sharp object embedded in tire

• Correct tire pressure

• File down spoke

66

Warranty 7

Warranty

LIMITED WARRANTY AND POLICY ON REPLACEMENT PROCEDURES & RESPONSIBILITIES

Your purchase includes the following warranty which is in lieu of all other express warranties. This warranty is extended only to the initial consumer purchaser.

No warranty registration is required. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may have other rights which vary from state to state.

FRAME

Steel frames are guaranteed against faulty materials and workmanship for as long as the initial consumer purchaser has the bicycle, subject to the condition of the warranty listed below. Aluminum and dual suspension frames are guaranteed against manufacturing defects for a period of 5 years. If frame failure should occur due to faulty materials or workmanship during the guarantee period, the frame will be replaced. For frame replacement under this Pacific Limited Warranty, contact us, stating the nature of the failure, model number, date received and the name of the store from which the bike was received, at the address given on this page. Frame must be returned for inspection at customer’s expense. Please note: the fork is not part of the frame. A lifetime warranty on your frame does not guarantee that the product will last forever. The length of the useful life cycle will vary depending on the type of bike, riding conditions and care the bicycle receives. Competition, jumping, downhill racing, trick riding, trial riding, riding in severe conditions or climates, riding with heavy loads or any other non-standard use can substantially shorten the useful product life cycle. Any one or a combination of these conditions may result in an unpredictable failure that is not covered by this warranty. All bicycles and frame sets should be periodically checked by an authorized dealer for indications of potential problems, inappropriate use or abuse. These are important safety checks and are very important to help prevent accidents, bodily injury to the rider and shortened useful product life cycle.

PARTS

All other parts of the unit except Normal Wear Parts are warranted against defective materials and workmanship for a period of 1 year from the date of purchase by the initial consumer purchaser, subject to the Terms and Conditions of the warranty listed below. If failure of any part should occur due to faulty materials or workmanship during the warranty period, the part will be replaced. All warranty claims must be submitted to the address below and must be shipped prepaid and accompanied by proof of purchase. Any other warranty claims not included in this statement are void. This especially includes installation, assembly, and disassembly costs. This warranty does not cover paint damage, rust, or any modifications made to the bicycle. Normal Wear Parts are defined as grips, tires, tubes, cables, brake shoes and saddle covering. These parts are warranted to be free from defects in material and workmanship as delivered with the product. Any claim for repair or replacement of Normal

Wear Parts (grips, tubes, tires, cables, brake shoes and saddle covering) and missing parts must be made within thirty (30) days of the date of purchase. The warranty does not cover normal wear and tear, improper assembly or maintenance, or installation of parts or accessories not originally intended or compatible with the bicycle as sold. The warranty does not apply to damage or failure due to accident, abuse, misuse, neglect, or theft. Claims involving these issues will not be honored.

CONDITIONS OF WARRANTY

1. Your bicycle has been designed for general transportation and recreational use, but has not been designed to withstand abuse associated with stunting and jumping.

This warranty ceases when you rent, sell, or give away the bicycle, ride with more than one person, or use the bicycle for stunting or jumping.

2. This warranty does not cover ordinary wear and tear or anything you break accidentally or deliberately.

3. It is the responsibility of the individual consumer purchaser to assure that all parts included in the factory-sealed carton are properly installed, all functional parts are initially adjusted properly, and subsequent normal maintenance services and adjustments necessary to keep the bicycle in good operating condition are properly made. This warranty does not apply to damage due to improper installation of parts, installation of any kind of power plant or internal combustion engine, modification or alteration of the brakes, drive train, or frame in any way, or failure to properly maintain or adjust the bicycle. NOTICE: Bicycle specifications subject to change without notice.

Pacific Cycle · PO Box 344 Olney, IL 62450

65

7 Warranty

PURCHASE RECORD

Fill in immediately and retain as a record of your purchase.

Please retain your sales receipt for any possible warranty claims.

Your Name:

Address:

City: State:

Date Purchased:

Place of Purchase:

Model and Brand Information:

Wheel Size: Color:

Model Number:

Date Code:

Serial Number:

66

Service sticker is located above the bottom bracket

Serial number is located below the bottom bracket

Figure 7.1

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