7 of Dwarves Auto Wah

7 of Dwarves Auto Wah
7 of Dwarves Auto Wah
Four knobs of funkin’
sweet auto filtering
Contents of this document are ©2015 Pedal Parts Ltd.
No reproduction permitted without the express written
permission of Pedal Parts Ltd. All rights reserved.
Schematic + BOM
R1
R2
R3
R4
R5
R6
R7
R8
R9
R10
R11
R12
R13
R14
R15
R16
R17
R18
R19
R20
R21
R22
10K
1M
1M
10K
5K1
330R
330R
4K7
4K7
4K7
330R
330R
4K7
4K7
1K
100K
20K (47K)
20K
20K
10K
10K
4M7
R23
R24
R25
R26
R27
R28
R29
R30
R31
330R
4M7
47R
7K9
4K7
47K
47K
47R
2K2 (CLR)
Values in blue are
improvements on the
original and are supplied
with the kit.
C1
C2
C3
C4
C5
C6
C7
C8
C9
C10
C11
C12
22n
220n
1u elec
22n
22n
1u elec
68n
8n2
100n
2u2 elec (1u)
100u elec
100n
IC1
IC2
IC3
LM13700
LM324
78L05
Q1
Q2-3
2N5457
BC550
DECAY
RES
SENS
BIAS
1MC
50KB
100KB
50KB
D1-3
D4-5
1N4148
1N4001
The power and signal pads on the
PCB conform to the FuzzDog
Direct Connection format, so can
be paired with the appropriate
daughterboard for quick and easy
offboard wiring
Be very careful when soldering the
LED, diodes, transistors and
voltage regulator (IC3). They’re
very sensitive to heat. You should
use some kind of heat sink
(crocodile clip or reverse action
tweezers) on each leg as you
solder them. Keep exposure to
heat to a minimum (under 2
seconds). You should use
sockets for IC1+2, or be super
careful not to overheat. Take
your time.
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can be mounted flush in the box.
Positive (anode) leg of the electrolytic capacitors go into the square pads. Negative leg (cathode) of
the diodes go into the square pads.
C11 can be laid flat across the top of the adjacent resistors to ensure plenty of clearance when
mounting in the enclosure. See front cover image.
Pots mount on the back side of the board. You can use vertical-mount pots or just wire up ‘normal’
ones. It’s a good idea to place the pots in their holes in the enclosure when you’re soldering them in
place on the PCB. That way you know they’re going to line up ok. Best way to do it is to solder a
single pin of each pot in place, then do a visual check to see that they’re all sitting at the same
height. If not, melt the joints and readjust any that are off.
If your pots don’t have protective plastic covers you
should place a strip of thick card between them and the
board when soldering to keep them a good distance from
the pcb to avoid shorting other components.
You should solder all other board-mounted components
before you solder the pots. Once they’re in place you’ll
have no access to much of the underside of the board.
The bottom of your board should look like this >>>>>>
The circuit is very sensitive to input. You’ll have to tweak
the bias and sensitivity pots to get it set just right for
each individual guitar. It’s the nature of the beast.
PCB Layout ©2015 Pedal Parts Ltd. All rights reserved.
General Notes
Test the board!
BATTERY
IN
IN
9V GND
OUT
OUT
Your nice, new circuit board
INCLUDING WIRED POTS!!!!
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will troubleshooting help
be offered if you have skipped this stage. No exceptions.
Battery clip is supplied to test the circuit. Power supply is recommended
when using the finished delay as it will EAT batteries.
Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on
the switch and LED wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long run.
If the circuit works at this stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the switch guess what? You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.
Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for 9V, GND,
IN and OUT. Connect IN and OUT to the jacks as shown. Connect all the GNDs
together (twist them up and add a small amount of solder to tack it). Connect
the battery + lead to the 9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!
If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man. At least you
know the problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get it working, THEN worry
about the switch etc.
Wire it up - DC only version
(if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)
BOARD
GND
BOARD
INPUT
BOARD
GND
IN
BOARD
GND
BOARD
9V
BOARD
OUT
L
LE
ED
D
+
OUT
BOARD
LED+
BOARD
GND
This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be
Tip Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals
(Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
The BOARD GND connections don’t all have to connect to one point.
They can be daisy-chained around the circuit, using larger connection
points (such as jack socket lugs) for multiple connections. As long as
they all connect together in some way.
Wire it up - with battery
(if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)
BOARD
GND
BOARD
INPUT
BOARD
GND
IN
BOARD
GND
BOARD
9V
BOARD
GND
+
BATTERY
BOARD
OUT
L
LE
ED
D
+
OUT
BOARD
LED+
Just because the
FuzzDog enclosure
won’t take a battery,
there’s nothing
stopping you using a
bigger box.
This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be
Tip Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals
(Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.
The BOARD GND connections don’t all have to connect to one point.
They can be daisy-chained around the circuit, using larger connection
points (such as jack socket lugs) for multiple connections. As long as
they all connect together in some way.
PedalParts.co.uk
Drilling template
Recommended drill sizes:
Pots
Jacks
Footswitch
DC Socket
Hammond 1590B
60 x 111 x 31mm
7mm
10mm
12mm
12mm
It’s a good idea to drill
the holes for the pots
1mm bigger to give
yourself some wiggle
room, unless you’re a
drill ninja.
27mm
32mm
This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your
enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.
Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.
PedalParts.co.uk
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