Zodiac C Series manual
The Zodiac C Series is a reliable and efficient chlorine generator that provides crystal clear pool water using advanced technology. This innovative system generates chlorine from salt, eliminating the need for harsh chemicals and ensuring a consistent level of sanitization. With its user-friendly interface, the Zodiac C Series allows for precise control over chlorine production, catering to pools of various sizes and ensuring a safe and enjoyable swimming experience.
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C Series
Troubleshooting Manual
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION
READ AND FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS.
NOTE: This manual is for use by licensed electricians or trained pool professionals only. No other person is to install, service or troubleshoot this C Series Chlorinator.
!
WARNING
Failure to heed the following warnings can result in permanent injury, electrocution or drowning.
ELECTRICAL HAZARD
• To reduce risk of electrical shock
- Make sure all power to pool equipment area is off prior to any installation or removal of Clearwater components.
- Replace damaged power pack cord immediately.
- Do not bury cord. Locate cord to minimize abuse from lawn mowers, hedge trimmers and other equipment.
• Severe shock or injury will likely occur as a result of a drill or drill cord coming in contact with water. Never allow electric drill or cord to come in contact with water. Only plug drill into a Class A (5 Milliampere Trip) protected Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) in accordance with the National Electrical Code Section 680 (USA only). Please see your drill owner’s manual for further safety precautions.
• Install the power pack at least 10 feet from the inside walls of a pool to prevent any possibility of the unit coming in contact with water.
• Your Clearwater Chlorinator has been designed with an electronic flow switch. This device automatically switches the chlorinator ‘OFF’ when the water through the cell stops. To prevent cell damage and personal injury, do not in any way interfere with this system which has been designed for your protection.
CHEMICAL USE HAZARD
• To avoid personal injury when working with pool chemicals, always wear rubber gloves and eye protection and work in a well-ventilated area.
Use caution when choosing a location to open and use chemicals as they may damage any surface in which they come in contact.
• The addition of certain chemicals can reduce the effectiveness of chlorine. Always make sure that proper residual chlorine levels are maintained to avoid personal injury.
• This product manufactures chlorine. Individuals with any type of chlorine sensitivity should take the appropriate precautions to avoid injury or illness.
EQUIPMENT WATER PRESSURE HAZARD
• Always turn pump off prior to installing or removing any Clearwater cell. Your pump/filter system is operated under pressure and the pressure must be released before you begin work. Please see your pump/filter owner’s manual for further instructions.
• To avoid cell damage, water pressure in the cell must not exceed 29 psi (200kPa)
PREVENT CHILD INJURY AND DROWNING
• To reduce the risk of injury, do not permit children to operate this product.
• Do not let anyone, especially small children, sit, step, lean, or climb on any equipment installed as part of your pool’s operational system.
Unless otherwise stated, ALL components of your pool's operational system should be located at least 3 feet from the pool so children cannot use the equipment to gain access and be injured or drown.
!
CAUTION
Failure to heed the following warnings could cause damage to pool equipment or personal injury.
• Chlorinator must be installed and operated as specified.
• Scratching or bending plates in cell housing can reduce cell life.
• Power to the C Series should be turned off before unplugging the cell connectors to prevent cell damage and low voltage sparks.
• Keep the cell terminals protected with a light coating of silicone grease to allow for a positive electric connection. Use of any other type of grease may damage the terminal seals and ‘o’ rings. Do not immerse these terminals in acid wash solution, and avoid accidental contact with salt water.
• Water above the temperature of 104 degrees F (40 degrees C) flowing through the cell can cause plastic cell to discolor.
• Power pack must not be installed directly above any other heat source such as filter, pump or heater. It must be at least 1 Ft. (300 mm) from the ground to allow free circulation of air around it. It must not be installed in a closed box. If the power pack is to be installed on a post, then it must be centrally positioned on a flat panel of suitable waterproof material at least 10 inches (240mm) wide and 18 inches (440mm) high.
• Check the cell frequently to prevent the accumulation of pool debris that for any reason may have by-passed the pool filter.
2
Table of Contents
Safety Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Look / Feel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Testing Power Path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Red Light On . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Amber Light On OR Green & Amber Lights On . . . . . . .6
No Lights / No Output . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Meter Will Not Go to 100% . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Meter Not Moving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Output Meter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Shunt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
No Chlorine Reading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Cell Terminals are Hot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Tripping House Breaker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Power PCB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Replace Fuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Output Control PCB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Bridge Rectifier
Checking Diode / Replacing Rectifier . . . . . . . . . .16
Red Line Connector Assembly (Large) . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Red Line Connector Assembly (Small) . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Wire Color Locations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Power Cord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Output Cord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Transformer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Cell23
Heavy Build-Up on Cell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Replace Cell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Cell Cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Replacing Blank End Cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Replace Electrode End Cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Exploded Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Parts List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Look/Feel
Before removing chlorinator cover, check the following:
1.
Is the pool pump on?
2.
Is the output control turned up?
3.
Does the output meter function? (If NO, see Output Meter pg. 10)
4.
Is the output cord attached to the cell?
5.
Is the black sensor wire attached to the sensor post on the cell?
(see Red Light On pg. 5)
6.
Can you see production in the cell? (see No Chlorine Reading pg. 11)
7.
Is there heavy build-up on the cell? (see Heavy Build-up on Cell pg. 23)
After checking the above items:
1.
Turn off power supply.
2.
Remove chlorinator from wall.
3.
Remove 4 screws to remove cover and check the following:
• Are there any visible burn marks anywhere inside the chlorinator?
• Is there any visible water damage?
• Are there any loose wires or screws?
• Is the fuse on the PC board blown?
3
Testing the Power Path
Set volt-meter to AC volts and test between the following points:
1.
E&F = 220V + or – 10%.
2.
C&D
3.
A&B
=
=
Same as E&F.
Same or less than E&F (increased conductivity results in decreased voltage to keep PCB cool and protect electronics).
4.
5.
H&G
K&M
=
=
If result is 0, replace fuse. (see Replace Fuse pg. 14)
As printed on transformer (this will drop as A&B drops).
Same as H&G
Set volt-meter to DC volts and test between the following points:
1.
J&N = Up to 2 volts lower than K&M.
If more than 2 volt drop then rectifier is bad. (see Bridge Rectifier pg. 16)
A B C D
J K
M
N
H G
4
E F
Red Light On
Is the pump on and moving water through the cell?
YES NO
YES
Is the sensor wire attached and in good condition?
NO
There is a flow related problem with pool equipment.
Disconnect sensor clip until pool equipment is repaired.
Repair / attach sensor wire end to sensor on cell.
YES
Is there a bubble exposing the sensor inside the cell?
NO
Replace power PCB.
(see Power PCB pg. 13)
Replace bridge rectifier.
(see Bridge Rectifier pg. 16)
Re-install electrode in the water entrance end of the cell housing.
There is a flow related problem with pool equipment.
Disconnect sensor clip until pool equipment is repaired.
Proper Functions Explained:
Meter moves freely from 0 to 100% as control knob is turned.
Green light is on when meter reads higher than 0%.
Red light is on only when flow sensor wire is disconnected from post or when air or gas has filled the cell.
Yellow light is on when cell needs cleaning if salt level or water temperature is low. Also indicates failing cell if salt level & water level are in range.
5
Amber Light On or Green & Amber Lights Are On
YES
Is salt level 4000 ppm or higher?
NO
YES
Check there is 220V incoming power.
NO
Have qualified electrician rewire chlorinator to 220V.
Add salt according to chart in Owner’s Manual.
YES
Is water temperature below 65˚ F?
NO
Cold water reduces conductivity. Raise salt level to compensate or ignore “Add
Salt” light.
Cell may need cleaning or replacement.
(see Check / Replace Cell pg. 23, 24)
Replace power PCB.
(see Power PCB pg. 13)
Proper Functions Explained:
Meter moves freely from 0 to 100% as control knob is turned.
Green light is on when meter reads higher than 0%.
Red light is on only when flow sensor wire is disconnected from post or when air or gas has filled the cell.
Yellow light is on when cell needs cleaning if salt level or water temperature is low. Also indicates failing cell if salt level & water level are in range.
6
No Lights / No Output
YES
Is the output control turned up?
Is there 220V power to the chlorinator?
YES NO
Refer customer to a qualified electrician to troubleshoot power source.
NO
Turn output knob clockwise to increase output.
YES
Is the fuse on the PCB blown?
NO
Replace fuse.
(see Replace Fuse pg. 14)
Check / repair burnt wires.
(see Look / Feel pg. 3)
Is output cord in good condition?
(see Output Cord Replacement pg. 21)
Replace power PCB.
(see Power PCB pg. 13)
Replace bridge rectifier.
(see Bridge Rectifier pg. 16)
7
Meter Will Not Go to 100%
YES
Is salt level 4000 ppm or higher?
NO
Are the output wires and sensor wire attached and in good condition?
YES NO
Add salt according to chart in Owner’s Manual.
Repair / attach wires.
(see Output Cord / Conversion
Kit pg. 21)
YES
Is incoming power 220V?
NO
Have qualified electrician wire chlorinator to 220V (low input voltage results in low output).
Is water below 65˚ F?
YES
Raise salt level to compensate for cold water.
NO
YES
Is the cell in good condition?
(see Check Cell pg. 23)
NO
Replace cell.
(see Replace Cell pg. 24)
Test meter.
(see Output Meter pg. 10)
Replace power PCB.
(see Power PCB pg. 13)
8
Meter Not Moving
YES
Are there any lights visible?
NO
Are the output wires and sensor wire attached and in good condition?
YES NO
YES
Is the output control turned up?
NO
Repair / attach wires.
(see Output Cord / Conversion
Kit pg. 21)
Turn output knob clockwise to increase output.
Cell may need cleaning or replacement.
(see Check / Replace Cell pg. 23, 24) YES
Is there power to the chlorinator?
NO
Test output meter.
(see Output Meter pg. 10)
Refer customer to a qualified electrician to troubleshoot power source.
YES
Test fuse for continuity.
Is the fuse on the PCB blown?
NO
Replace fuse.
(see Replace Fuse pg. 14)
Check / repair burnt wires.
(see Look / Feel pg. 3)
Replace PC board.
(see Power PCB pg. 13)
9
Output Meter
Testing
1.
Turn off power supply.
2.
Remove chlorinator from wall bracket.
3.
Remove 4 screws to remove cover.
4.
Check for loose wire connections on back of meter (this may be the only problem with the meter). If tight, continue testing.
5.
Turn on power supply.
6.
Touch terminals of new meter to terminals of old meter firmly (use caution not to touch any other live wires).
7.
If new meter reads the same as old meter, do not replace it and find fault elsewhere. If new meter reads correctly, skip to replacement section below.
8.
Turn off power supply.
9.
Replace cover with 4 screws.
10. Replace chlorinator on wall bracket.
11. Turn on power supply.
Replacement
1.
Turn off power supply.
2.
Remove chlorinator from wall bracket.
3.
Remove 4 screws to remove cover.
4.
Remove 2 screws to remove shunt and wires from back of meter.
5.
Remove nuts and washers from 4 corner bolts of meter.
6.
Pull old meter through face of chlorinator.
7.
Insert new meter through face of chlorinator.
8.
Replace nuts and washers on 4 corner bolts of meter.
9.
Position and hold in place the shunt and wires with 2 screws (tighten firmly).
10. Replace cover with 4 screws.
11. Replace chlorinator on wall bracket.
12. Turn on power supply.
Shunt
Be sure screws holding the shunt in place are tight.
Replacement
1.
Remove 2 screws holding shunt in place.
2.
Position and hold in place the new shunt and wires with 2 screws (tighten firmly).
10
No Chlorine Reading
Do the lights and meter function properly?
YES NO
YES
Do you see salt production coming from the cell?
NO
Troubleshoot lights.
(see No Lights pg. 7)
Troubleshoot meter.
(see Output Meter pg. 10)
Chlorinator is working properly. Check water chemistry for conditioner or algaecides.
Check age / condition of cell.
(see Check / Replace Cell pg. 23, 24)
Replace power PCB.
(see Power PCB pg. 13)
Proper Functions Explained:
Meter moves freely from 0 to 100% as control knob is turned.
Green light is on when meter reads higher than 0%.
Red light is on only when flow sensor wire is disconnected from post or when air or gas has filled the cell.
Yellow light is on when cell needs cleaning if salt level or water temperature is low. Also indicates failing cell if salt level & water level are in range.
11
Cell Terminals are Hot
Are the output wires and sensor wire attached and in good condition.
YES NO
Repair / attach wires.
(see Output Cord / Conversion Kit pg. 21)
(Terminal ends are split to provide a tight connection. Loose connections cause terminals to heat up &/or reduce output.)
Carefully spread the split in the output cord terminal end to make connections tighter. Lubricate terminal ends sparingly.
This is a temporary repair. Order replacement kit & repair later.
Tripping House Breaker
Check power input cord for damage.
Replace if needed.
(see Power Cord pg. 20)
YES
Is incoming power constant at proper voltage?
NO
Refer customer to a qualified electrician to troubleshoot power source.
Power pack has short circuit.
Conduct look / feel test.
(see Look / Feel pg. 3)
Test power path.
(see Testing Power Path pg. 4)
Replace power PCB if needed.
(see Power PCB pg. 13)
12
Power PCB
Replacement
1.
Disconnect power supply.
2.
Remove chlorinator from wall bracket.
3.
Remove 4 screws to remove cover.
4.
Use flat blade screwdriver to pry the red line connectors off top and bottom edges of PCB. Inspect the red line connectors for burn marks, replace if needed.
5.
Insert screwdriver between PCB and unit back and pry forward to remove PCB from 4 stand-offs.
6.
Replace any of the 4 stand-offs that were damaged beyond use.
7.
Push small red line connector onto bottom edge of new PCB (Note: blank plate in red line connector lines up with slot in edge of PCB).
8.
Push new PCB onto 4 stand-offs (there are 4 extra holes on PCB - see picture).
9.
Push large red line connector onto top edge of PCB (Note: blank plates in red line connector line up with slots in edge of PCB).
10. Replace cover with 4 screws.
11. Replace chlorinator on wall bracket.
12. Connect power supply.
13. Test run chlorinator.
Use these holes to mount PC board.
Use these holes to mount PC board.
13
Replace Fuse
1.
Follow PCB Replacement steps 1-6.
2.
Use small tip soldering iron to loosen solder on back of PCB and remove fuse with wire tails from PCB.
3.
Use small tubing from old fuse and slip over wire tail of new fuse.
4.
Fold covered wire tail 180 degrees.
5.
Push both wire tails through holes in PCB (either wire goes in either hole).
6.
Solder tails from back side of PCB.
7.
Trim excess wire tail from back of PCB.
8.
Follow PCB Replacement steps 7-12.
Fuse located here on
Power PC board.
14
Output Control PCB
To Remove
1.
Disconnect power supply.
2.
Remove chlorinator from wall bracket.
3.
Remove 4 screws to remove cover.
4.
Clip 3 zip ties that hold wire harness to back of unit.
5.
Use flat blade screwdriver to pull red line connector off top edge of PCB.
6.
Use heavy duty snips to cut red line connector in half.
7.
Push power input half back onto edge of PCB (Note: locator plates in red line connector line up with slots in edge of PCB).
8.
Turn output control knob counter-clockwise to expose setscrew in knob.
9.
Loosen setscrew and remove output control knob.
10. Remove retaining nut and washer from output control shaft.
11. Gently push all 3 lights and shaft through face from front of chlorinator and remove assembly.
Replacement
12. Cut new red line connector assembly in half and set aside power input half.
13. Remove nut from shaft of new output control board.
14. Gently push all 3 lights and shaft in place from inside chlorinator.
15. Install washer and retaining nut on output control shaft.
16. Install output control knob and tighten set screw.
17. Push red line connector onto top edge of PCB (Note: locator plates in red line connector line up with slots in edge of PCB).
18. Reattach wire harness to back of chlorinator with new zip ties (to keep wire harness away from hot transformer).
19. Replace cover with 4 screws.
20. Replace chlorinator on wall bracket.
21. Reconnect power supply.
22. Test chlorinator functions.
15
Bridge Rectifier
Checking Diode / Replacing Rectifier
Testing
1.
Disconnect power supply.
2.
Remove chlorinator from wall bracket.
3.
Remove 4 screws to remove cover.
4.
Detach output cord and sensor wire from cell.
5.
Detach power cord from power supply.
6.
Use multi-meter set on diode test mode and test as follows;
• Place 1 probe on each of the red wire posts of the rectifier and note the meter reading.
• Switch probe location and place on opposite red wire posts and note meter reading.
• If you get a change in meter reading during only one of the tests, that diode is good (continue testing).
• If you get a change in meter reading during both tests, that diode is bad. Rectifier must be replaced.
• Place 1 probe on each of the black wire posts of the rectifier and note the meter reading.
• Switch probe location and place on opposite black wire posts and note meter reading.
• If you get a change in meter reading during only one of the tests, that diode is good (go to step 11).
• If you get a change in meter reading during both tests, that diode is bad. Rectifier must be replaced.
Replacement
7.
Cut all wires to bridge rectifier as close as possible.
8.
Use 5/16" socket to remove bolt from center of rectifier and remove old rectifier.
9.
Cover back of new rectifier with heat sink compound and bolt tightly in place (notched corner goes to bottom right).
10. Strip and solder wires in this order;
Bottom right = red output cord and small red wire from line connector
Bottom left = black from transformer
Top right = red from transformer
Top left = black to output meter (may have small black from line connector also)
11. Attach power cord to power supply.
12. Replace cover with 4 screws.
13. Replace chlorinator on wall bracket.
14. Attach output cord and sensor wire to cell.
15. Reconnect power supply.
16. Test chlorinator functions.
16
17
Red Line Connector Assembly (Large)
Note: The PCB should also be replaced if the red line connector shows signs of burning or melting inside.
To Remove
1.
Disconnect power supply.
2.
Remove chlorinator from wall bracket.
3.
Remove 4 screws to remove cover.
4.
Clip 3 zip ties that hold wire harness to back of chlorinator.
5.
Loosen and remove Dk. Blue and Red wires (coming from red line connector) from white terminal at top of transformer.
6 . Loosen and remove Lt. Blue and Green/Yellow wires (coming from red line connector) from white terminal at power cord.
7.
Use flat blade screwdriver to pull red line connector off top edge of PCB.
8.
Turn output control knob counter-clockwise to expose setscrew in knob.
9.
Remove output control knob.
10. Remove retaining nut and washer from output control shaft.
11. Gently push all 3 lights and shaft through face from front of chlorinator and remove assembly.
Replacement
12. Remove nut from shaft of new output control board.
13. Gently push all 3 lights and shaft in place from inside chlorinator.
14. Replace washer and retaining nut on output control shaft.
15. Install output control knob and tighten setscrew.
16. Push large red line connector onto top edge of PCB (Note: locator plates in red line connector line up with slots in edge of PCB).
17. Insert and tighten 2 Red (to Brown) and Dk. Blue (to White) wires to white terminals at top of transformer.
18. Insert and tighten Lt. Blue (to Black or White) and Green/Yellow (to Green) wires to white terminal at power cord.
19. Reattach wire harness to back of chlorinator with new zip ties (to keep wire harness away from hot transformer).
20. Replace cover with 4 screws.
21. Replace chlorinator on wall bracket.
22. Connect power supply.
Note: You can cut the red line connector in half and replace only the output control half OR the power input half. Use heavy-duty snips to cut the red line connector.
18
Red Line Connector (Small)
To Remove
1.
Disconnect power supply.
2.
Remove chlorinator from wall bracket.
3.
Remove 4 screws to remove cover.
4.
Use flat blade screwdriver to pull small red line connector off bottom edge of PCB.
5.
Pull small red line connector through to left side of chlorinator for easier access to wires.
6.
Unsolder 4 wires from small red line connector (make note of color positions).
Replacement
7.
Solder 4 wires to new small red line connector.
8.
Feed small red line connector past back of transformer and push onto bottom edge of PCB (Note: locator plate in red line connector lines up with slot in edge of PCB).
9.
Replace cover with 4 screws.
10. Replace chlorinator on wall bracket.
11. Connect power supply.
Wire Color Locations
From right end, while looking at PCB.
Red Line Connector (Large)
Yellow (right end)
Blue
Locator
Brown
Black
Red
Green
Orange
Blank
Blank
Blank
Blank
Green/Yellow
Blank
Red
Locator
Lt. Blue
Blank
Dk. Blue (left end)
Red Line Connector (Small)
White (right end)
Black
Red
Gray
Locator (left end)
19
Power Cord
Replacement
1.
Disconnect power supply.
2.
Remove chlorinator from wall.
3.
Remove 4 screws to remove cover.
4.
Loosen 3 screws in white power cord terminal to disconnect power cord wires.
5.
Use pliers to squeeze base of power cord grip grommet and pull through hole from the outside.
6.
Remove power cord grip grommet and transfer to new power cord (one side of the grommet will separate from the rest).
7.
Push power cord grip grommet with new power cord through hole from the outside till it snaps in place.
8.
Insert power cord wires into appropriate terminal openings (green to green, black and white are interchangeable in remaining spaces) and tighten screws firmly.
9.
Replace cover with 4 screws.
10. Replace chlorinator on wall.
11. Connect power supply.
Note: Power Cord is ETL approved at 3 foot long. If additional power cord is required it should be extended by using a j-box and hard wiring in shielded conduit to the power supply.
Only use an ETL approved replacement cable.
20
Output Cord
Replacement
1.
Disconnect power supply.
2.
Remove chlorinator from wall.
3.
Remove 4 screws to remove cover.
4.
Cut 3 wires of output cord just inside unit.
5.
Cut zip tie holding small black wire to cord grip grommet.
6.
Use pliers to squeeze base of cord grip grommet and pull cord through hole from the outside.
7.
Remove cord grip grommet and transfer to new output cord (one side of grommet will separate from the rest).
8.
Push cord grip grommet with new output cord through hole from the outside till it snaps in place.
9.
Strip all wire ends to be joined.
10. Slide heat shrink on one end of each wire pair.
11. Splice together like color and size wires with correct size butt connector.
12. Slide heat shrink over splice and use heat gun or hair dryer to shrink.
13. Replace Cover with 4 screws.
14. Replace chlorinator on wall.
15. Connect power supply.
Using Conversion Kit
(Replacing Output Cord ends only)
1.
Cut the old terminals off existing output cord below damage (see note below).
2.
Slide black outer heat shrink over existing cord.
3.
Strip each wire insulation.
4.
Slide inner heat shrink on individual wires (red to red, and black to black).
5.
Position the butt connectors over exposed wires and crimp tightly using crimping tool.
6.
Slide inner heat shrinks over crimped joints evenly and use heat gun or hair dryer to shrink.
7.
Slide plastic insulation on conversion cord towards the crimp joints as far as possible.
8.
Slide outer heat shrink over entire cord and crimp joints.
9.
Use a heat gun or hair dryer to shrink outer heat shrink.
Note: Recommend to stagger cord cuts slightly as to not end up with all 3 butt connectors side by side. This will make it easier to slide outer heat shrink in place.
21
Transformer
Testing
See Testing the Power Path pg. 4.
Replacement
1.
Disconnect power supply.
2.
Remove chlorinator from wall.
3.
Remove 4 screws to remove cover.
4.
Disconnect from the three white plastic terminals all wires that lead to the transformer. Keep track of each wire location for reassembly.
5.
Remove the rivets holding the transformer in place.
6.
Mount new transformer using washers & new rivets.
7.
Relocate white terminals to top of transformer and mount with screws.
8.
Attach wires from new transformer to correct plastic terminals.
9.
Attach cover with 4 screws.
10. Replace chlorinator on wall.
11. Reconnect power supply.
22
Cell
!
WARNING
Cell is under pressure! Make sure that he pump is off and that the pressure has been released by opening the air-bleed valve on top of the filter before removing the cell.
Check the Condition of the Cell
• Always clean cell and check operation before replacing.
• To test operation, install new cell or test cell on line.
• Do not allow build-up to get heavy enough to bridge 2 plates together.
• Brittleness is sign of damage to the cell. Replace the cell.
Heavy Build-up on Cell
YES
Has the cell been cleaned recently?
NO
Is the pH within 7.2 to 7.6?
High pH will result in build-up accumulating faster than normal.
Clean cell weekly with a 1-part muriatic acid to
10-parts water solution. Soak 5 to 10 minutes.
Repeat as necessary.
Is the calcium hardness high?
High hardness will result in build-up accumulating faster than normal.
CAUTION: Always wear rubber gloves & eye protection when handling muriatic acid. Always pour acid into water, NEVER water into acid.
Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) neutralizes muriatic acid.
Note: New plaster, marcite or diamond bright pools will have a high acid demand for up to 6 months. Maintain a pH between 7.2 and 7.6.
23
Replace Cell
1.
Turn off power supply.
2.
Detach output cord and sensor wire from cell.
3.
Unscrew electrode end cap.
4.
Screw new electrode into cell housing (hand tight only).
5.
Attach output cord and sensor to cell.
6.
Turn on power supply.
Cell Cap
If leaking from center ring of cap:
1.
Turn off power supply.
2.
Unscrew cell cap.
3.
Clean / lube O’ring and mating surfaces OR replace with new pre-lubed O’ring.
4.
Screw cap in place (hand tight only).
5.
Turn on power supply.
Replace Blank End Cap
1.
Turn off power supply.
2.
Unscrew old cap.
3.
Clean O’ring mating surface.
4.
Screw on new cap with new o’ring pre-lubed (hand tight only).
5.
Turn on power supply.
24
Replace Electrode End Cap
1.
Turn off power supply.
2.
Detach output cord and sensor wire from cell.
3.
Unscrew electrode end cap.
4.
Slide color sleeve from black terminal socket.
5.
Loosen setscrew to remove terminal socket (set with black sleeve).
6.
Slide color sleeve from red terminal socket.
7.
Loosen set screw to remove terminal socket (set with red sleeve). The terminal sockets are not the same size and must be kept track of!
8.
Remove, clean, and lube both electrode post O’rings (may be stuck in cap).
9.
Put electrode post O’rings in cap and slide on "post spacers".
10. Slide new cap onto electrode posts so that the post attached to the outside plates is near the flow sensor (this will be the black socket location).
11. Slide black terminal socket onto post nearest sensor and firmly tighten with setscrew.
12. Slide black color sleeve onto terminal.
13. Slide red terminal socket onto remaining post and firmly tighten with setscrew.
14. Slide red color sleeve onto terminal.
15. Screw electrode into cell housing (hand tight only).
16. Attach output cord and sensor to cell.
17. Turn on power supply.
25
C Series
Powerpack
4
26
19
30
29
28
18
23
17
17
C Series Cell
3
13
8
27
1
31
34
32
33
35
36 37
38
39
25
9
10
15
14
5
16
24
6
2
7
21
20
12
22
11
40 41
42
43
44
26
C Series - USA
C Series Powerpack
No.
Part #
1
2
W000011
W000021
8
9
6
7
3
4
5
W000031
W000041
W000051
W000071
W000201
W010181
W050351
10 W050361
11 W051431
12 W080341
13 W100051
14 W000271
15 W000571
16 W060401
17 W120021
18 W190891
19 W140101
20 W190941
21 W120201
22 W191181
23 W191101
W191111
W191131
W191151
24 W130031
25 W010131
26 W000581
27 W170021
28 W050041
29 W050051
30 W050681
Description
Output Cord Grommet
Input Cord Grommet
HE1217/6N-4
LED Bezels
Canoe Clip
Cable Tie
PCB Standoffs
Earth Screw
Acrylic Front Cover
Rectifier Wire Red
Rectifier Wire Black
Input Cable - C
Main PCB
Output Control Knob
Spring Washer
Rectifier Screw
Rectifier
Lugs
Output Cable With Terminals
Sensor Clip
4 Wire Redline Assembly
3 Way Terminal Strip
Manual Control for PCB Assembly
Shunt For C140
Shunt For C170
Shunt For C200
Shunt For C250
Transformer (All Models)
Mounting Bracket
Cover Screws
Front Label
Cell Terminal Insulation Black
Cell Terminal Insulation Red
Sensor Insulation Black
Qty
C Series Cel
No. Part #
31 W193841
W193851
W193861
W193871
W193991
32 W050061
33 W050071
34 W190801
35 W190811
36 W192021
37 W150041
38 W150021
39 W040351
40 W040011
41 W193741
42 W041101
43 W193821
Description
C140 Electrode Kit
C170 Electrode Kit
C200 Electrode Kit
C250 Electrode Kit
C400 Electrode Kit (2 Cells Required)
Heatshrink Black
Heatshrink Red
Brass Socket Negative
Brass Socket Positive
Cell Cap (Electrode Side)
O-Ring, Cell Cap
O-Ring, Electrode Post
Post Spacer
Electrode Clips
Cell Housing
Reducing Bush (White)
Blank Cap
27
ZODIAC POOL CARE, INC.
2620 Commerce Way
Vista, CA 92081
1-800-822-7933 www.zodiacpoolcare.com
© 2007 Zodiac Pool Care, Inc. All rights reserved. TL-3030 8/07
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