Home Owners Manual
Step One
- Start Up Phase
Step Two
- Settling Phase
Step Three - Regular Maintenance
Overall Inspection Summary
T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S continued. . .
- From Date of Conveyance or Occupancy
Driveways, Sidewalks and Patios
Site Drainage and Grading
Drain Tile and Sump
Vinyl, Metal or Composite Siding
Wood Siding
Overhead garage door
Door Hardware
Decking and Handrails
Ice Dams
Gutters and Downspouts
Basement Floor Slabs and Crawl Space Ground Seals
Wood Frame
Beams and Teleposts
T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S continued. . .
• Floor Finishes
Ceramic Tile
• Counter Tops and Cabinets
Plastic Laminates
• Paint
Plumbing Fixtures
Hot Water Tank
Hose Bibs
Plugged Toilets and Drains
Faucet Repair
Tub and Shower Enclosures
Floor Drains
GFCI Circuits
Smoke and Fire Detectors
Heating Systems
Geothermal Heating Systems
Ventilation, Condensation and Relative Humidity
Range Hoods and Exhaust Fans
Heat Recovery Ventilators
T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S continued. . .
SCHEDULES A to E – Warranty Information
T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S continued. . .
SCHEDULES F to J – Other Homeowner Information
T A B L E O F C O N T E N T S continued. . .
This New Homeowner Manual has been produced by R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. and is
provided to the homeowner in an effort to provide the best possible service to our
customers. Unauthorized use or duplication by others is strictly prohibited.
The information contained in this manual is offered as information to the new homeowner.
R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. takes no liability for the content, instructions, examples, tips and
or representations made, by its employees, directors or agents. This manual is offered
and provided without prejudice.
Transfer of title of your new home typically takes place the day prior to the Occupancy
Date or Date of Possession. Transfer of title occurs as a result of the conveyance of
money known as “consideration” or payment for the home and is facilitated by your lawyer
and the B.C. Land Registry. In all cases, liability of risk of loss or damage defaults to
the owner of the property. Therefore R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. maintains insurance on
the home up to the point in time when payment is received as to protect its financial
position. The homeowner is responsible to obtain insurance in advance of conveyance or
take the risk of loss or damage. The Occupancy Date follows at some point in time after
the Adjustment Date or Conveyance Date. Title remains registered in the name of R.A.B.
Ventures #1 Ltd., and the risk of loss or damage defaults to R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. until
the date and time of conveyance or payment for the home is received.
This manual has been provided to the homeowner as a result of a purchase of a new
home from R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. and the information is intended to advise the
homeowner what to expect from R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd., as well as your responsibilities
as the new homeowner. Please read this New Homeowner Manual in its entirety as this
will assist in understanding the responsibilities of each party.
Initial Walk Through And Home Inspection
Approximately one week prior to the Occupancy Date, you will be contacted by R.A.B.
Ventures #1 Ltd. and a meeting will be arranged at your new home to review the finished
product. The objective of this meeting is two-fold. The first part is to explain to you the
use and operation of the systems, components and features of the home, and the second
part of the meeting is to provide a formal inspection of the home. You are encouraged to
bring to the attention of the R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. representative(s) any and all
deficiencies or concerns you have with any and all components, finishes, products, dents,
scratches, etc. that you see. Please take the time to check all doors, windows, cabinets,
drawers, mirrors, tubs, showers, paint, stair railings, hard wood floors, carpets,
countertops, or other surfaces for scratches, dents, chips or other such deficiencies. You
are also encouraged to check the exterior of your home, landscaping and fencing if
applicable for deficiencies. PLEASE NOTE: Only those deficiencies identified at the time
of the initial new home inspection, prior to occupancy, as agreed to by both parties, and as
listed on the R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. “Completion Inspection Certificate” will be corrected
at the expense of R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. (excluding warranty items). You will be
requested to sign this form and a copy will be provided to you.
The corrective work required will be done as soon as possible or practical. The majority, if
not all, deficiencies identified at the walk through will be corrected or resolved prior to your
actual occupancy date of the home. You will be requested to review the corrective work on
the date of occupancy and sign off that the service and repair is complete. Should for
some reason there remain deficiencies in the home that were not completed prior to
occupancy, service arrangements will have to be made after occupancy. Access to your
home may be required from time to time during standard business hours. Service
personal will only access your home when you are present unless you sign a waiver
in advance (see Schedule “J” for sample). You will be required to sign a Completion
Inspection Certificate for each and/or all deficiencies or repairs as they are completed.
Any dents, scratches, or other damages which are found or identified after the initial walk
through or after occupancy of the home will be deemed the responsibility of the
homeowner to arrange and pay for repairs at their sole and complete discretion.
Occupancy Day
On the day of occupancy and/or title transfer you will again meet with the R.A.B. Ventures
#1 Ltd. representative to review the repairs or deficiencies identified at the “Initial Walk
Through and Inspection” and you will be required to sign the following documents
(samples attached):
• Maintenance Manual Sign-Off Form
• Travelers Guarantee Warranty Commencement Date Certificate
• Completion Inspection Certificate
Approximately one week prior to the three-month anniversary of the occupancy date of
your home an R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. representative will contact you to set up a threemonth inspection. This will be your second opportunity to identify to R.A.B. Ventures #1
Ltd. deficiencies or product failures that may have occurred within the first three months.
This does not include newfound scratches or dents to any surface or appliance. You
are encouraged to identify any and all issues or concerns with regard to any component of
your home including the interior, exterior and landscaping when applicable. Defects or
deficiencies identified and agreed to by both parties at this three-month inspection, will be
documented. Please be aware of the homeowner responsibility for maintenance, so
damage as a result of negligence or failure to maintain will not default to R.A.B. Ventures
#1 Ltd. All issues will be addressed as soon as possible or practical. You will be required
to provide access to your home, and R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. personnel or trades will not
enter your home unless you are present or a waiver is signed.
Please Note: R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. will not be responsible to repair or replace any
products added to your home after the occupancy date or to correct, repair or
replace any components which have been modified or serviced by any person(s),
including the homeowner, other than those recommended or supplied by R.A.B.
Ventures #1 Ltd. For any repairs that R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. is responsible to repair
or replace, please note that R.A.B Ventures #1 Ltd. cannot guarantee an exact
R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. is pleased to provide you with this New Homeowner Manual as a
summary of the more important maintenance issues you can expect to encounter with
regard to caring for your new home. Remember no home is maintenance free. Proper
and timely maintenance can extend the life of many of the components, systems and
landscaping incorporated in your new home and helps you to protect your investment.
These maintenance recommendations are intended to provide you with a basic
understanding of the maintenance requirements of your home, however, should any
questions arise, please contact R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. directly or the specific product
supplier, manufacturer or tradesperson listed in the attached Schedule “G” Trades and
Supplier List. Undertaking maintenance is not for everyone. If you are uncomfortable
undertaking any specific maintenance task, it is recommended that you hire a professional
trade’s person. Please see Schedule “H” attached for the recommended “New Home
Maintenance Schedule”.
Twelve months after the occupancy date, the home will again be reviewed and inspected
by the new homeowner and a representative of R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. Any such defects
or deficiencies agreed upon by both parties, will be formally documented. These issues
will be addressed within 30 business days through a scheduled process and the
homeowner must be present at the time and for the duration of service unless a waiver is
signed. The homeowner will be required to formally acknowledge completion of the repair
or service.
In all circumstances, repair or service, other than emergency circumstances and regular
maintenance as defined herein, must be coordinated through R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd.
Repairs or services coordinated directly by the homeowner or performed directly by the
homeowner may result in voiding the specific warranty relative to the product or
workmanship. All costs for work or service requested directly by the homeowner, without
R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. approval, shall default to the homeowner. Should you have any
questions or concerns please contact R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. All service work
(excluding emergencies) will be performed Monday to Friday from 8:00 a.m. to 4:00
Dependent upon the emergency, consider calling 911
An emergency for the purposes of this New Homeowner Manual is defined as “a situation
which occurs that may endanger the health or safety of any person(s), or there is an
immediate risk of damage to the home or the environment”.
The following are examples of emergency situations and describe what the homeowner
should do and what actions should be taken prior to contacting the Service Department of
R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. or Travelers Guarantee should the emergency take place during
standard working hours.
Gas Leak (Terasen Gas 24 Hour Emergency Line, Phone 1-800-663-9911)
If at any time, you smell gas (smell of rotten eggs or sulphur), vacate the home. Do not
turn on lights, or any appliances. Contact your gas utility supplier immediately and/or your
local fire department. They will check your system and advise you of any problems.
Water Leak (JJ Residential Services Ltd., Phone 604-530-2688 or 649-6373)
Water Line Burst
A water line can burst due to a number of reasons, such as a loose joint or freezing and
should be dealt with immediately. If the burst occurs between a fixture and a shut-off
valve, close the shut-off valve immediately. If no shut-off exists, locate the main water
shut-off (usually located where the water line enters your new home in the basement or
crawl space), and turn it off until the problem can be repaired. It is also advisable to turn
off your hot water tank to prevent overheating while the water supply is shut off. The
homeowner should contact JJ Residential Services Ltd., at 604-649-6373 and also advise
R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. by calling their office at 604-513-2200 and leaving a message for
the service department.
Frozen Water Line
If garden hoses are left attached to hose bibs during the winter, freezing of the water line
can occur. This is problematic once the pipes thaw as they may leak. If a major leak
occurs, follow the steps described above regarding “Water Line Burst”. If accessible,
heating the pipe with a hair dryer may thaw it out.
Hot Water Tank Failure
If major leakage occurs at the hot water tank, immediately shut off the water supply and
the gas valve or electrical breaker.
No Heat (Northwind Heating Ltd., Phone 604-572-7944)
Furnace Does Not Work
If your furnace fails to come on and provide heat, check the “Furnace Switch” on the wall
to ensure it is on. Next check the electrical panel to ensure the breaker providing power to
the furnace is on and/or that the main power switch has not been shut off. Also, check the
thermostat setting to ensure it has not been turned down.
No Electricity (B.C. Hydro, Phone 1-888-769-3766)
If there is no electricity, check the main breaker in the electrical panel. Ensure there is not a power
outage in your area, call B.C Hydro and follow voice prompts.
In an emergency situation, the homeowner may contact the applicable trade or
utility directly without contacting R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd.
Terasen Gas 24 Hour Emergency Line
Phone 1-800-663-9911
Blueline Electrical Services
Phone 604-328-6413
JJ Residential Services Ltd.
Phone 604-649-6373
Northwind Heating Ltd.
Phone 604-572-7944
The following are offered as examples of non-emergency situations and describe what the
homeowner should do and what actions should be taken prior to contacting the Service
Department of R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. or Travelers Guarantee.
Plugged Sewer Line
This generally occurs because of inappropriate materials being flushed down a toilet or
drain by users of the home. Do not continue use of toilets or sinks once a major blockage
has occurred. Attempt to unclog the line using a plunger, but if a larger blockage occurs,
the services of a plumber may be required. If the blockage is due to a proven builder
defect then R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. will take full responsibility for rectifying the blockage.
Claims for damage due to the backup are to be handled by the Homeowner’s insurance.
Minor Plumbing Leak
Put a container under the leak or shut off water supply from nearest shut off valve.
Contact R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. Service Department.
Circuit Overload (Breaker Tripping)
If this occurs, ensure that the circuit is not overloaded with too many appliances, or that
the appliance itself is not faulty. Appliances such as hair dryers, toasters and kettles that
generate heat tend to draw a lot of electrical current, so more than one of these types of
appliances in use at the same time on the same circuit can cause circuit overload. Should
circuit overload occur, unplug one or more of the appliances and reset the breaker. If
tripping reoccurs, contact R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. Service Department.
Ground fault circuit interrupters (G.F.C.I.s) protect your exterior plugs and those in your
bathrooms. This device will either be located in the actual plug itself or be a dedicated
breaker in your electrical panel. It is sensitive and designed to trip when grounding occurs
due to damp conditions, or when extension cords are excessively long and/or in poor
condition, or if appliances are faulty or old. Ensure that no unsafe situations exist, and
that appliances and extension cords are unplugged, then reset the G.F.C.I.
Plugs and Outlets
If a plug or outlet sparks excessively, immediately turn off the breaker and contact the
R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. Service Department. A small spark while an appliance is being
unplugged is not uncommon.
All Power to your New Home is Out
If, for any reason, all the power in your home goes out, check to see if there is a power
blackout in your neighborhood. If not, check your main breaker (in the electrical panel)
and reset it after checking for a current overload.
If a roof leak occurs, check for the following:
a) plugged gutters and/or downspouts;
b) debris on the roof;
c) ice dams; or
d) missing roof shingles.
Until the leak is repaired, place a bucket under the leak to protect your new home.
In each of the examples of non-emergency service requirements above, please
contact R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. via email at [email protected] or Fax R.A.B. Ventures #1
Ltd. at 604-513-2218 prior to contacting the applicable trade, supplier, and before
contacting Travelers Guarantee.
Please ensure that you review all of your warranty documentation closely so that
you are aware of all deadlines and complaint procedures. Please note: modifications
by the homeowner to any component of the home may void the warranty in whole or in
If you feel that a defect exists which is covered under the warranty, please provide written
correspondence: Via email to [email protected]
or fax to R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. at 604-513-2218
Attention: Service Department
Upon receipt of your notice, a representative of R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. will contact you to
set up an appropriate time to review your concerns so that they may be dealt with
efficiently and in a timely manner. Please contact R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. for your
warranty claims before contacting Travelers Guarantee.
The R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. Service Representative is:
Luc Deschamps
Cell Phone: 604-723-5595
E-mail: [email protected]
As per your Travelers Guarantee 2-5-10 home warranty certificate, you are required to
maintain your new home and mitigate any damage to your new home, including damage
caused by defects or water penetration.
You must take all reasonable steps to restrict damage to your new home if the defect
requires immediate attention. If it anytime, you suspect water is penetrating the home
from exterior conditions, please contact R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. immediately.
For defects covered by Travelers Guarantee’s warranty, the duty to mitigate is met through
timely notice in writing to R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd.
An owner’s duty to mitigate survives even if;
a) the new home is unoccupied,
b) the new home is occupied by someone other than the homeowner,
c) water penetration does not appear to be causing damage
Unfortunately, if a defect occurs or is made worse due to an owner’s failure to follow the
maintenance procedures provided, or to mitigate any damage, it will be excluded from
warranty coverage.
- From Date of Conveyance or Occupancy
Driveways and sidewalks are generally made of concrete. Concrete is a strong material
that wears well and will perform for many years.
Following installation, concrete will shrink as it cures. This shrinkage causes stress in the
concrete, which often results in surface cracks as the stress is released. This cracking
can be controlled by the installation of control joints in the concrete. These deliberate
joints in the concrete are more susceptible to cracking than the remainder of the slab,
thereby preventing cracks from occurring in the slab surface itself. Unfortunately, these
control measures are not always effective and surface cracks can appear despite the
builder’s best efforts. These cracks are generally cosmetic and do not require repair
unless they constitute a tripping hazard and/or exceed acceptable standards as set out by
Travelers Guarantee.
Seasonal variations in temperature may also cause cracks in concrete slabs. Soil
movement beneath the concrete due to frost penetration can crack and/or raise sections
of the concrete. This change in height may change the direction of surface drainage
causing water to pool against the foundation wall of your new home. Should this occur,
repairs should be undertaken to prevent water from pooling as it may then seep through
the foundation wall and into the home. Both of these instances are natural occurrences
that are beyond the builder’s control. No warranty shall apply.
Another potential cause of damage to concrete surfaces is road salt and other chemical
contaminants. Road salt or other de-icing products used for ice control in the winter may
adversely affect the surface of the concrete. As a result, road slush, which contains road
salt, should not be allowed to melt on the concrete. A good alternative to de-icers is sand
or cat litter for increased traction on icy sections of the driveway or sidewalk.
Common lawn fertilizer, contaminated surface water and run-off from stored materials can
cause staining of the concrete surface that cannot be removed. Concrete sealers that are
commercially available may reduce damage due to chemical contaminants. Care should
be taken in the handling and storage of potential contaminants on or near any concrete
The intent of site drainage patterns is to prevent surface water from pooling near or
against the perimeter foundation wall of your new home. This is accomplished adjacent to
the house by sloping the soil away from the residence on all sides.
Window and basement stairwells are a means of providing a window for a basement or
exit to the rear yard, which is below grade. Window and basement stairwells must be kept
free of ice, snow, leaves and other debris, which may block the drainage system(s)
provided and flood the basement of your new home.
Depressions due to soil compaction following construction may occur adjacent to the
foundation walls and/or window wells. These depressions should be filled by the
homeowner and graded to direct surface water away from the walls for a distance of at
least two meters (6’). At no time should water be allowed to pool against the foundation
In addition to the drainage considerations adjacent to your new home, overall property
drainage systems may include surface depressions (swales), drain tile, curtain drains, and
catch basins. Ice, snow, leaves and other debris can block the flow of drainage and must
be seasonally maintained by the owner. Care must be taken not to permanently alter the
drainage flow so as to cause ongoing drainage problems. Please be aware of this issue if
modifying landscapes, installing raised gardens, planting of trees and shrubs, installation
of sheds, etc… as you may cause water drainage issues that will require resolution at the
expense of the homeowner.
During periods of excessive rainfall, standing water may occur due to soil saturation. Such
conditions are beyond the control of the owner or builder. A minimum 24 hours after
completion of rainfall should be provided to allow water to dissipate without causing
In most jurisdictions, there is a requirement for a perimeter drain tile system to be located
below the level of the basement or crawlspace floor. This system is generally comprised of
perforated pipes that are covered with gravel to allow water to seep into them. This drain
tile carries the water away from the perimeter of the house to prevent it from accumulating
against the foundation wall or footing. The drain tile then carries the water to a sump or
catch basin.
The sump allows any sediment in the water to settle to the bottom of the sump. The clear
water is then drained off by another pipe to the municipal storm sewer, ditch or a rock pit
located in the yard. Access pipes or cleanouts are installed to allow the perimeter drain
tile to be inspected and cleaned. The location of these cleanouts should be identified for
future reference.
Sumps and catch basins should be cleaned every year, as a minimum, to remove any
excessive sediment, leaves or other debris. Exterior stairwells are often equipped with a
drain and sump at the bottom of the stairwell to prevent flooding of the basement. These
drains must be kept clear of debris. Deep-rooted plants or trees should be avoided next to
the foundation walls as deep roots can clog a drain tile system. Do not remove splash
pads at downspout drains.
Due to the many different circumstances beyond the builder’s control, no warranty for
shall apply for landscaping, including plants, fencing, detached patios, gazebos and
similar structures.
It is however still very important to maintain the landscaping. Frequent watering of the
grass is essential during the first few weeks after an area has been sodded or seeded.
Once the grass is established, weekly watering is adequate. This will promote a deep root
system that will result in a healthier, more drought resistant lawn. Frequent light watering
will result in a shallow root system that causes the lawn to dry out and die in drought
conditions. For the same reason, grass should not be cut shorter than two inches in
Fertilizing twice a year and controlling weeds will promote a healthy lawn. Consult your
local home garden centre for suitable products.
During the spring thaw, do not allow snow or ice to accumulate in shaded areas, as this
will damage the grass. Any accumulations of snow should be distributed evenly over a
large area so that it melts evenly.
Some minor settlement will occur over some areas of new lawns or landscaping. These
areas should be filled and re-seeded to maintain a level surface. When installing
flowerbeds, be careful not to interfere with the drainage system. Ensure that flowerbeds
are graded away from the foundation wall and that a minimum clearance of eight inches is
maintained between the ground level and the bottom of the exterior wall cladding. Never
allow soil or gravel to come in contact with untreated wood materials or your exterior finish.
Trees and shrubs should be kept clear of the house. Deep rooted plants or trees could
interfere with the performance of the perimeter drainage system of the house. Newly
planted trees or shrubs require a shallow depression around their base. The depression
should be worked periodically to loosen the soil to allow air and water to penetrate to the
root system. Once the plant is established (approximately two years), the depression can
be filled in; however, never raise the soil above the level of the base of the trunk as this
will kill the tree.
In some arid locations, the installation of lawns, planters, trees or shrubs directly adjacent
to your new home is not recommended. The water required to sustain the health of the
lawn or plants causes the soil to expand or collapse depending on the composition of the
soil. This will adversely affect the load-bearing ability of the soil and may cause structural
damage to the residence.
Generally, vinyl, metal or composite siding materials will not require refinishing. Metal and
composite siding materials can be re-painted, vinyl siding cannot. Due to their smooth
surface, these materials can be kept clean by washing with a garden hose and mild
detergent and some light scrubbing. Never use a pressure washer to clean the exterior
cladding. Excessive water pressure can cause damage to the surface of the cladding
and/or force water into the wall cavity.
Vinyl and metal siding materials are installed loosely to allow for expansion and
contraction due to the variations in the outside temperature. Damaged or very loose
siding should be replaced / refastened to prevent further damage to the siding and to
prevent the entry of water into the wall cavity.
Wood siding and shingles can be cleaned with a mild detergent and a garden hose. Do
not use a pressure washer to clean wood siding, as this will damage the surface and force
water into the pores of the wood.
Painted wood siding or shingles will generally require re-painting or staining within five
years. This will vary depending on the type and quality of the product used, the initial
coverage, and the exposure to the elements. The siding will require re-painting or staining
whenever the surface begins to fade, discolour or peel.
Moisture in wood siding causes most exterior paint failures. This moisture may be from
garden sprinklers, damp shrubbery close to the wall, small cracks in the siding or around
door and window details. Spot repair of affected areas can sometimes extend the life of
the remaining surfaces. Please note that if spot touch ups of the painted/stained surfaces
are undertaken, the new paint/stain colour will likely not match that of the existing surface
due to fading and weathering. This cannot be avoided.
Siding installed on the south and west elevations, especially dark and bright colours which
fade more rapidly, may require more frequent repainting or staining to maintain their
original appearance and also to provide adequate protection for the siding. For best
results, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for surface preparation.
Decks, handrails and windowsills may require cleaning and “touching up” more frequently
than other components of the house due to their horizontal orientation.
Stucco consists of a mixture of sand, lime, water and Portland cement. Conventional
stucco applications, including those with an acrylic top finish coat, are not waterproof. The
protection from water penetration comes from the building paper and flashing installed
prior to the application of the first coat of stucco. The stucco does help in shedding water,
but will become saturated after a prolonged period of rain.
Control joints are installed at each floor to compensate for the movement of the building
frame caused by the wood components, which shrink in size as they dry. Hairline cracks
may appear in the finish coat after the drying and shrinking process is complete. These
cracks should be expected and it is suggested that they be left until near the end of the
first year, or until all shrinkage has taken place and then, if desired, they can be repaired.
Please note that the repair of the crack is often more unsightly than the original crack.
Cracks less than 3mm (1/8”) in width do not require repair. Larger cracks should be
sealed to prevent the entry of bulk amounts of water into the wall assembly.
Most surface dirt on stucco can be cleaned with a garden hose. A pressure washer
should never be used to clean stucco surfaces as considerable damage and excessive
water penetration can occur.
Over time, mildew and moss can grow on any shaded surface on any type of cladding. A
mild solution of bleach and water may remove this growth.
Neither the mortar joints in the brickwork nor the bricks themselves are entirely waterproof.
Periodically, the mortar joints should be checked for cracks. Hairline cracks are not
problematic; however, if these cracks are excessive, they should be repointed to reduce
the potential for moisture related problems. Repointing involves cleaning out loose mortar
to a depth of at least ½” and filling the space with new mortar which is available at your
local building supply store.
The bottom course of brick contains intentional openings (weep holes), which allow for the
drainage of moisture from the cavity located behind the brick. These openings must
remain unobstructed and must be a consideration when landscaping.
White dust or staining on the masonry surface is referred to as efflorescence. It is the
result of salts within the masonry or mortar that migrate to the surface of the brick with
time. It can usually be controlled with water and a light scrubbing. More persistent
occurrences can be washed off with muriatic acid or baking soda. Should efflorescence
continually reoccur in a localized area, it may be due to a specific water source such as a
leaking gutter. If so, the problem should be identified and corrected.
Flexible sealing compounds are generally referred to as caulking. Numerous varieties exist
and have many specialized uses. Caulking is generally used to seal gaps between
dissimilar materials on the exterior of the building and to seal gaps or joints in exterior
finishes. As the building moves due to the shrinkage of the building framing members
and/or the finishing materials themselves, considerable stress is placed on the caulking
materials. While a caulking joint should never be the only means of preventing water from
entering a building, it is one of the initial means of keeping water out. Therefore, caulking
requires examination annually before the wet weather arrives. Any cracked or damaged
caulking should be removed and replaced.
When caulking, use a high quality material formulated for your specific purpose. Some
caulkings are for interior use or cannot be painted. Consult with R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd.
or local home supply centre for an appropriate product.
Window glazing is typically made of glass with the exception of some skylights that may
use an acrylic glazing. Current building standards require the use of double glazed sealed
units mounted in thermally broken frames. There is a wide assortment of frame types and
the material used can vary widely. Windows may open in different fashions: they may
slide horizontally or vertically, open outwards like a door or tilt open in the fashion of an
awning. Typical windows require minimal maintenance; however window hardware should
be cleaned and lubricated annually. Any accumulated grime or debris should be removed
from between the window and the frame.
Most window designs incorporate a drainage track at the bottom of the window to collect
any condensation that runs off of the glazing. These tracks will have weep holes to the
outside to drain this moisture. These holes must be kept clean and can be maintained with
a short piece of wire or a cotton swab.
If high relative humidity levels occur inside your new home during periods of very cold
weather, condensation and frost on the inside face of the windows will occur. This is a
ventilation issue and is not a fault with the window. Condensation can result in the growth
of mold on the window frame that can be controlled with a mild solution of bleach and
Condensation between the layers of glass within the window frame indicates that the
sealed unit has failed. The glazing unit will require replacement, as there is no method of
repairing sealed units. If failure of the sealed unit occurs after the expiry of the first year of
warranty coverage, contact your window supplier as the cost of this repair may be partially
borne by the manufacturer.
Acrylic skylight glazing does allow the migration of moisture through it; therefore,
condensation between the double-glazing can be expected. This form of skylight usually
has a vent that can be opened to allow for additional airflow between the acrylic glazing
units. Check with your skylight manufacturer for further information in this regard.
Exterior swing doors are generally made of solid wood, metal, wood over a foam core or
fiberglass. Sliding patio doors are usually constructed with metal or vinyl frames and are
supplied by the window manufacturer. Interior doors are usually a wood veneer over a
hollow core. The main door between the garage and the house will be provided with an
automatic door closer and seal (weather-stripping) to ensure that the door automatically
closes to prevent the entry of exhaust gases from the garage into your new home.
Exterior doors are exposed to weather conditions and extreme temperature variations
from the inside to the outside, which can harm the surface of the door. Variations in the
relative humidity from the interior to the exterior can also affect the door. Collectively or
separately, these conditions can cause doors to warp or change in dimension, and
seasonal variations can occur up to ¼” in any direction. It is prudent to refrain from
trimming a binding exterior door as the problem may rectify itself with a change in climatic
Some exterior doors have restrictions imposed by the manufacturer as to the colour the
door may be painted. The heat absorbed by darker colours can cause failure of the
sealing compounds in the glazing and/or cause excessive warping of the door. The wrong
paint colour may void the manufacturer’s warranty; therefore, any such restrictions should
be reviewed prior to the door being painted.
Interior doors are generally sized to allow a gap up to 18mm (¾”) at the bottom of the door
between the door and the floor covering. This gap is provided to allow for the circulation
of air beneath the door.
Only operate the garage door when it is in your site range. Ensure nothing blocks the
electronic safety eye on either side of the garage door if equipped with an electric opener.
Do not hang or attach anything to the door.
Keep controls out of the reach of children and keep children away from door when
opening or closing.
Weather-stripping is installed around doors and windows to reduce air infiltration. Check
the weather-stripping annually to ensure that the seal is adequate. Some weather-stripping
is adjustable and the door should be slightly difficult to latch or lock. Petroleum jelly can be
used to lubricate rubber or vinyl products to maintain their flexibility.
The factory finish on exterior locks and door handles will wear with normal use. This is
especially evident with brass finishes in marine environments. To restore this finish,
remove the factory lacquer finish with a scouring powder, and then polish the hardware.
Once a uniform appearance is obtained, the surface can be sealed with a coat of clear
Interior door hardware can be wiped clean with a damp cloth and polished with a soft dry
cloth. It should be noted that natural body oils and many hand lotions are detrimental to
brass finishes and will cause tarnishing. Door hardware and locks can be lubricated with
powdered graphite or light oil.
Sundecks, balconies and handrails are exposed to rain, snow and sun. Cracking, warping
and splitting of wooden deck materials is normal and cannot be prevented. Painted
surfaces will chip and peel and should be touched up annually before the onset of poor
and/or wet weather. Open seams in wood trim should be sealed with a suitable caulking to
prevent the entry of water.
Care must be taken not to damage any deck membranes and any damage must be
repaired immediately. Usually, cleaning with mild soap and water is adequate for deck
If the roof of your new home is sloped, it will typically be surfaced with asphalt or fiberglass
shingles, cedar shingles or shakes (which may or may not be treated with a preservative),
clay or concrete tile, metal or a composite manufactured product. Flat or slightly sloped
roofs may be surfaced in both built-up tar and gravel or torched on rolled sheet goods. The
typical life expectancy of these various roof materials ranges from 10 to 25 years.
The life expectancy of the roof will depend on the product used and the care and
maintenance provided. Loose, broken or missing shingles following heavy windstorms
should be repaired or replaced. It should be noted that most manufacturer’s warranties for
shingles do not cover wind damage in conditions exceeding 80 kph (50 mph) unless
otherwise specified. Storm related damage is not the builder’s responsibility; therefore,
maintenance and repairs should be made as soon as possible after such occurrences to
prevent leakage. Leakage can cause serious damage to the interior of your new home or
further damage to the remainder of the roof.
Asphalt shingles and some roll roofing have granules on the surface to protect the product
from damage due to ultra-violet radiation from sunlight. If bare areas of the underlying
roof material are present, they should be protected with additional granules. This material
is available at most roofing material supply stores. In addition, these types of roofs will
become soft in hot weather and the top surface can become damaged from people
walking over it.
Deflection of the roof sheathing or the lifting of the shingles due to expansion can cause
variations in the roof surface.
All forms of roofing are intended to shed water and prevent its entry into the residence.
Obstructions that prevent the free flow of water off of the roof surface or to a drain can
cause leakage and/or premature failure of the roofing material. The roof and ancillary
flashings must be kept free of debris and build-up of ice or snow. While cleaning the roof
is recommended annually, the roof surface should also be checked for excess debris after
every heavy windstorm. This is especially true if trees surround the home. Please note
that coniferous trees will also deposit debris in sufficient quantities to impede the free flow
of water from the roof and gutters.
Regardless of the type of roof material used, the area beneath the roof surface will be
vented to the outdoors. Sloped roofs generally have an attic, which is vented at the
perimeter (eaves), gables or at the ridge of the roof. Flat roofs are also vented. This
unobstructed ventilation is crucial to the longevity of the roof and roofing material. At no
time should you allow this venting to become blocked.
All penetrations through the roof, such as skylights, plumbing stacks, vents etc., need to
be checked annually and re-sealed as necessary.
Snow melting on the roof and freezing as it runs off at the un-insulated overhang or eave
of the roof can cause ice damming. Ice dams can cause water to back up under the
shingles, which will result in a leak inside. This is generally not due to a builder defect.
When ice dams occur, the snow and ice should be removed off of the roof at the eaves
and valleys before water backs up and causes damage inside.
Although gutters are not required by building regulations, they are often installed at the
perimeter of the roof to control the runoff of rainwater from the roof. They also serve to
prevent the rainwater from being deposited alongside the foundation wall where it could
eventually seep into the basement or splash water and mud up onto the surface of the
wall. If the gutters or the down pipes become clogged with debris or ice, water damage
can occur.
Keep gutters, roof drains and downspouts free of obstructions such as leaves, tree
needles and moss. Washed down by rain, particles from asphalt shingles can settle in the
gutters and reduce their efficiency. As with the roof, the gutters should be checked for
obstructions at least twice a year, and after every heavy windstorm or after prolonged
periods of freezing and thawing. When cleaning out the gutters, do not allow the leaves
and debris to clog the down pipes of your new home.
The downspouts on your new home empty onto splash pads, which are pads placed under
the lower end of every downspout. They are usually made out of concrete or fiberglass,
and are used to divert water away from the foundation of the house and reduce soil
erosion at the foundation due to water pouring out of the downspout. These splash pads
should be checked regularly as they tend to settle over time. When checking the splash
pads, make sure that the water from the downspouts lands directly onto them, and that the
splash pads slope down and away from the house. Incorrectly positioned splash pads
could direct water towards the foundation instead of away from it.
The most common material used in foundation construction is poured in place concrete.
Alternative methods of construction include masonry block walls and wood walls
constructed of pressure treated preserved wood.
If constructed of concrete, it is important to understand that concrete shrinks as it cures.
As with concrete flat work, such as driveways, the concrete of the vertical wall may crack
as the stresses caused in the concrete due to shrinkage are released. Minor shrinkage
cracking cannot be avoided in conventional concrete foundations and floors. These cracks
have little effect on the structural integrity of the building.
The exteriors of foundation walls are generally coated with a bituminous damp-proofing
material below grade. This material is often exposed for several inches above grade as
well. Damp proofing is installed to prevent moisture from seeping into the concrete. It is
not waterproof; therefore, excessive amounts of ground water must be controlled by other
means such as site grading or drainage.
As previously referenced, hairline cracks in the foundation wall may allow the entry of
water. These can be repaired from the outside with an asphalt-based sealant. If exterior
access is not possible, numerous concrete patching compounds are available
commercially, which can be installed to the inside surface of the concrete wall.
The floors of basement style homes will be cast-in-place concrete. This surface may not
be perfectly smooth and is generally not intended as a finished floor surface. As concrete
shrinks while curing, stress cracks are common. Cracks will generally form at corners and
across doorways and at the perimeter of the floor where it abuts the foundation walls. As
the floor is not a structural component, there is generally no reason to repair cracks in a
concrete floor unless they are larger than 3mm (1/8”) in width. These can usually be filled
with concrete grout.
Concrete floor slabs can be painted. The product used should be alkali resistant and
allow continued curing of the concrete. Painted concrete floors often flake or peel and
require continual touch-up.
Efflorescence may appear on areas of the concrete floors and walls. Efflorescence is a
white powder on the surface of the concrete, which is caused by salts in the concrete mix
that are brought to the surface by the water in the concrete mix. It is cosmetic only and
can be removed with a brush. Once the concrete has cured, it will likely stop appearing
although an alternative water source could cause efflorescence to continue indefinitely. If
this is the case, the alternate source of water should be identified and remedied.
A polyethylene vapour barrier is generally installed beneath the concrete floor to stop the
migration of ground water through the concrete. Despite this vapour barrier, some
moisture may still transmit through the concrete. Storage items should be raised up off of
the floor and kept away from the walls. This allows for the flow of air around the stored
items and helps to prevent the growth of mold or mildew.
Crawl space floors are required to be sealed with a vapour retardant as well. This can be
a polyethylene barrier weighted down with rocks or gravel or a concrete skim coat, and
either method is acceptable. If a concrete skim coat is used, it will generally be a lower
strength concrete and will measure approximately 50mm (2”) thick. It may be very roughly
finished and is not intended as a finished floor. It will likely crack extensively due to its
weak strength and the manner in which it was installed. This is normal and no repair is
necessary unless the cracks exceed 10mm (3/8”) in width.
The most common means of building the structure of a new home is a method called
western platform framing. This method incorporates a vertical frame of 2"x4" or 2"x6"
studs with continuous plates of the same width at the top and bottom of the wall. The wall
studs are generally on 16 “or 24" spacing. Plywood, lumber or oriented strand board
(OSB) sheathing is used on the exterior of the frame.
The floor “platforms” are constructed using 2"x8", 2"x10", 2"x12" floor joists of solid lumber
or manufactured floor joists with plywood or OSB sheathing screwed or nailed to the top
surface. To help eliminate squeaks and to provide additional structural rigidity, glue is
often applied to the top of the floor joist prior to the installation of the floor sheathing. The
interior and exterior walls of the structure and/or the perimeter foundation wall generally
support the floor joists.
For space considerations, beams constructed of several joists nailed together, or
engineered wood products, may be used to support the joists in lieu of a wall. For larger
loads or longer spans, a specialized manufactured beam may be used for added strength.
Posts at intermediate locations may support these beams.
Most roofs are constructed using prefabricated wood roof trusses spaced 600mm (24”)
apart. Detailed roof structures may be framed by hand using roof rafters and ceiling joists.
Trusses are capable of spanning large distances while carrying considerable weight;
therefore, it is likely that the interior walls on the top floor of your home carry no roof loads
and the load is supported by the exterior walls only. As the design and installation of the
truss is engineered, this can be confirmed by R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. or by the supplier of
the trusses.
Following installation, the wood used to construct your new home will shrink as it dries out.
This shrinkage will cause minor changes in the size and the shape of the wood members.
These changes do not affect the structural integrity of the wood frame, but may cause
changes in the finishes used throughout your new home. The most common changes are
cracks or nail pops in the finished surfaces of the drywall on the walls and ceilings. The
movement that results from the shrinkage of the structure may also affect other finishes
such as flooring and wood trims. Minor floor squeaks may appear and doors may begin to
bind. Any necessary repairs in this regard should be postponed until towards the end of
the first year to allow the majority of the wood shrinkage to occur.
As previously referenced, the main floor of the residence may be constructed with one or
more beams installed beneath the floor structure to support the floor joists above. In turn,
posts may support these beams at specific intervals. Clay or other soils subject to
shrinking or swelling may be common in some geographical regions. In these regions,
adjustable posts may be used. These posts are threaded and commonly referred to as
teleposts. The beam should be checked for straightness at least twice a year and the
posts adjusted as needed. A hairline crack between the wall and the ceiling over a main
beam may be an indication that adjustments are required.
If the basement is renovated, or if further development is undertaken, the new walls must
not come in contact with the underside of the beam, as this will not allow adjustments to
be made to the posts.
Kiln dried material is used for the construction of hardwood floors. However, these
materials are susceptible to movement caused by variations in humidity levels in the living
space. Low humidity levels will cause the wood to separate slightly at the seams of the
flooring. High humidity levels will cause the wood to expand. If excessive, this expansion
may lead to cupping or swelling in the center of the board. These movements vary
seasonally and can be somewhat controlled by monitoring the indoor moisture levels. The
movement of the flooring may also create noises as it expands and contracts.
The appearance of hardwood flooring is easy to maintain and a damp cloth is all that is
required for cleaning. There is no need for wax on hardwood floors as the flooring is
factory finished and has specific maintenance requirements. Consult your hardwood
flooring supplier for the specific cleaning and maintenance requirements of the hardwood
floor used in your home.
Carpet care basically consists of avoiding spills, cleaning high traffic areas regularly to
remove surface dirt and vacuuming the entire carpeted area weekly to remove dirt.
Consult your flooring supplier for the specific cleaning and maintenance requirements of
the flooring products used in your home. Carpets and rugs should be professionally
cleaned every year or two depending on the use and appearance.
Some carpet is more susceptible to matting depending on materials, weave and cost.
This is primarily noticeable in high traffic areas and cannot be prevented other than by the
use of carpet runners. Warranties from the carpet manufacturer generally pertain to fiber
loss only and do not cover “appearance retention”.
Ceramic tile is very durable. For routine cleaning use a mild detergent; do not use waxes
or sealers on the tile. The grout, however, is porous and will absorb water, which will lead
to staining so annual sealing of the grout joints with a clear liquid silicone sealer is strongly
Laminated countertops will burn or de-laminate if hot pots or pans are placed directly on
the surface. Protective potholders should always be used if the hot items are to be placed
on the countertop. Electrical appliances may also require protection when in use. The
damage caused by hot items is generally not repairable so it is best to err on the side of
caution when placing anything hot on the countertop.
Abrasive cleaners or steel wool should not be used, as the surface of the laminate will
scratch. If allowed to remain on the surface, household bleach or solvents can stain or
discolour the countertops.
Water must not be allowed to remain on joints in the countertop as this will result in the
substrate of the countertop swelling due to the excess moisture. This damage is
Clean the surface of plastic laminates with a damp, soapy cloth or sponge. For stubborn
stains, use a mild non-abrasive household cleaner and rinse thoroughly with clear water.
Be aware that some liquid cleaners contain abrasives and/or solidify at the mouth of the
container. These hard solid pieces can scratch the surface if they inadvertently get on the
cleaning cloth or sponge used to clean the laminate surface.
Granite counter tops are made by cutting solid granite rock, then polishing and edging the
top and edges. It is a 100% natural product not a manufactured product, so each piece is
unique in its colour, grains, pores and beauty. Often, three or more cut slabs are required
to cover the surface of a kitchen or ensuite bathroom. While every effort is made by all
parties involved in mining the granite, cutting, finishing and installing the granite there are
no guarantees to exact match of characteristics of the stone. In the same way no two
pieces of wood are identical, no two pieces of granite are identical.
Granite is a natural product, although very hard it can and will react to the following;
- various household chemicals such as but not limited to oil, grease, red wine, bleach etc.
- crack from heat, so hot pots or appliances should never be placed directly on the surface
- chip if hit with a hard surface such as but not limited to a dropped glass, dish, pot, etc.
- absorb food products, stains, and/or bacteria
- break if stood on
- scratch when in contact with other hard surfaces such as pottery, metal of any type, etc.
Your granite countertop has been chemically sealed immediately after installation,
however it is recommended that you reseal your granite surface each year using a product
recommend by your local building store or granite sales company.
Abrasive cleaners or steel wool should not be used, as the surface of the granite will
scratch. Clean the surface of granite with a damp, soapy cloth or sponge. For stubborn
stains, use a mild non-abrasive household cleaner and rinse thoroughly with clear water.
Be aware that some liquid cleaners contain abrasives and/or solidify at the mouth of the
container. These hard solid pieces can scratch the surface if they inadvertently get on the
cleaning cloth or sponge used to clean the laminate surface.
Vinyl surfaced cabinets are very susceptible to heat damage. If the kitchen is equipped
with a self-cleaning oven, the cabinet drawers and cabinet doors adjoining the range
should be kept open when the range is in self-clean mode to allow excess heat to
dissipate. If heat is allowed to build up, the surface may delaminate. This precaution
should also be taken when the oven is used for a prolonged period at a high temperature.
Most cabinet surfaces can be cleaned using a damp cloth and a mild detergent. Abrasive
cleaners should not be used. Grease splattered on the surfaces should be removed
immediately as it becomes more difficult to remove as it solidifies.
The majority of the interior drywall surfaces of your new home will be finished with either a
latex (water-based) or alkyd (oil-based) paint. Maintenance can quite easily be carried out
by gently washing the painted surfaces with a mild soap or detergent solution. Abrasive
solutions or over scrubbing should be avoided, as this will remove or damage the paint.
There will be some variation in paint colors each time it is tinted at the paint supplier,
which cannot be avoided. When repainting in your new home, paint a small patch in an
out-of-the-way area to test the paint color before any touch-ups are undertaken.
For interior and exterior paint colors for your new home, please refer to Schedule “F”.
The plumbing in your new home will likely consist of plastic or copper piping for the supply
of potable water throughout the home and PVC plastic piping for the waste disposal. Other
products are available but are less common.
A main water supply shut off has been provided to shut off the water supply to your new
home. This can be used in the event of an emergency and should be located upon
occupancy for future reference. Additional shutoffs may also have been provided to the
sink supply lines and toilets to allow for routine maintenance.
The waste lines have been provided with clean outs throughout the residence. These may
be located within cabinets, inside closets or clearly visible on a wall surface. These clean
outs must remain accessible as they are the means of access to the piping should a
blockage occur.
P-traps are present at the outflow of all waste piping. These traps are designed to provide
a barrier of water, which prevents the entry of sewer gases into the home. Sinks or drains,
which are used infrequently, may lose this water barrier due to evaporation. If sewer gases
are detected, running water down the waste pipe will re-prime the trap and likely stop the
Any waste materials, including grease, fat and petroleum products, should not be
disposed of down the plumbing system. These materials will accumulate in the piping,
especially in the P-traps, and can significantly reduce or block the flow of water through
the waste system. These substances are also very detrimental to the municipal sewage
treatment systems and private septic systems.
The surfaces of the plumbing fixtures are susceptible to damage from abrasive cleaners.
Use of abrasive products and steel wool pads should be avoided, as these products will
cause the finish of the fixture to become dull and porous. Refer to the manufacturer's
recommended maintenance procedures for specific information relating to your products.
Plumbing fixtures are intended for normal household use only. Caustic products should
not be disposed of in the household fixtures.
The water temperature of the hot water tank can be adjusted on the thermostat located on
the tank, which may require the use of a screwdriver. An average setting for the water
temperature is 140°F, which is hot enough for most uses including dishwashers, but will
not cause scalding or burns. If hotter water is needed for a special purpose, the
thermostat on the tank can be set to a higher temperature; however, the thermostat must
be reset to a normal setting when finished. If the house is to remain unoccupied for a
substantial period of time, the water temperature should be turned down or switched off at
the tank or breaker panel. Some hot water tanks have a “vacation” setting on the
thermostat for this purpose.
Hot water tanks are equipped with a pressure relief valve at the top of the tank. This is a
safety feature that will open and relieve water pressure if the tank exceeds its rated
working pressure. If water or water stains are evident at the discharge pipe leading from
the relief valve, contact a plumber, as this is an indication that the normal operating
pressure of the tank has been exceeded.
A typical hot water tank has a life expectancy of 5 to 10 years. Periodic draining of the
tank will remove sediment from the base of the tank and prolong its life. The sediment has
an insulating effect, especially with immersion type elements, which causes the heating
elements to operate longer than necessary with a consequent increase in cost and energy
Prior to draining water from the tank, the power supply or fuel source must be turned off.
Do not restore power to the tank until it has been refilled as it may explode due to
excessive pressure caused by the heating of air instead of water.
The tank can be drained by attaching a garden hose to the outflow drain at the base of the
tank and routing the hose to a nearby floor drain. Draining can only be accomplished by
gravity feed; therefore, the outflow of the drain used must be lower than the base of the
tank. Alternatively, the hose can be run outside as long as the outflow is lower than the
Hose bibs (garden hose connections) often have a valve inside the house that can be shut
off to allow the hose connection to be drained from the inside before winter to prevent
freezing and possible bursting of the exterior section of the piping. These shut-off valves
should be identified and shut-off in the winter months. Once the water supply has been
shut off, the exterior valve should be opened to allow the exterior portion of the piping to
drain. This process is reversed in the spring once the threat of freezing is gone.
Some hose bibs are "frost free" which means that the valve is connected to a long stem
that allows the water to be shut off inside the wall in the warm environment. The outer
portion of the piping then drains freely.
Garden hoses should not be left connected to the hose bib during freezing weather as
neither can drain. Ice forming in the hose due to undrained water can break the hose, or
the hose bib and cause the supply pipe to freeze.
Toilets generally refill as follows: a flush causes water in the tank to rise, which in turn lifts
a ball float to a preset water level. Once the ball float reaches this level, the water flow
valve is shut off. If set too high, the water level will rise in the tank and run down the
overflow pipe into the toilet bowl without shutting off the water. To rectify this, simply adjust
the height of the ball float so that the water is shut off before it reaches the height of the
overflow outlet. If water continuously runs into the toilet bowl from the tank, there may be
a poor seal at the flapper valve at the base of the tank. This seal can be cleaned with a
stiff brush or steel wool. A worn flapper valve requires a replacement.
Water dripping from the base of the toilet tank is likely due to condensation on the tank
versus a leak of any connections. High interior humidity levels will result in condensation
on the cold surface of the toilet tank as the tank is refilled with cold water.
Some toilets and some basins are made of glazed and kiln-fired vitreous china, while
some basins and bathtubs are made of enameled steel. Both are very durable and
attractive. To clean these fixtures, use mild powdered or liquid cleaners, but avoid
abrasive cleansers or pads, as they will damage the finish.
Toilets are very susceptible to blockage. New toilet designs use very little water per flush.
This results in a lower volume of water carrying away the waste. Repeated flushing may
be required in some instances to remove solid waste. Dense tissue paper and some thick
toilet papers are unsuitable for these toilets. Never dispose of hair, grease, lint, diapers,
sanitary products, “Q-tips” or plastic in the toilet.
Should a drain become plugged, try removing the debris from the trap beneath the fixture.
For toilets and drains a plunger can be used, then once partially cleared hot (not boiling)
water may complete the job. A more severe blockage may require a plumber. As
commercial drain cleaners are very corrosive they are not recommended.
Noisy or leaking faucets are frequently due to loose or damaged washers. Turning the
fixture off with too much force can damage washers. Faucet handles should be turned no
further than the point at which they stop the flow of water.
Faucets can generally be easily repaired by either replacing the damaged washer or the
faucet cartridge itself. Basic home repair books describe how to repair typical faucets;
however, due to variations in the methods of manufacture, specific instructions may be
required. Prior to beginning the repair, the water supply must be shut off at the shut off
valves provided. If such valves are not present, the entire water supply system will need
to be shut off at the main shut off valve. Contact a plumber if you are uncomfortable
attempting this repair.
Green staining of fixtures is usually a water related issue due to the chemical
compositions in the water, and is not a builder defect.
A shower curtain will prevent water from running onto the bathroom floor so must be used
while the shower is in use. To prevent damage to the flooring or walls, any spills or
puddles of water should be cleaned up immediately.
Caulking is used to seal seams and prevent water from entering behind the enclosure. If a
separation occurs around your bathtub between the tub and the wall tiles or between the
wall and the enclosure itself, it should be filled immediately with a tub sealer or caulking
compound available at any home supply centre. Leaving the gap unsealed may cause
serious water damage to adjacent materials.
You should apply a clear liquid silicone sealer to the grout joints of tub or shower
enclosures that are finished with ceramic tile every six months. This sealer is used to
prevent the porous grout from allowing water to seep through to the substrate material
behind the tile. Please note, this is a liquid product and should not be confused with
silicon-based caulking. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for application, but
this sealing cannot be done until the grout has cured for approximately six to eight weeks
after installation.
Some tub enclosures have specific cleaning requirements. Abrasive cleaners are not
recommended and harsh chemical cleaners should be avoided entirely. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendations for maintenance. Also, you should never step into a
bathtub with shoes on as trapped grit and dirt can damage the tub surface.
Many municipalities require a floor drain primer, which automatically provides water for the
P-trap located below the floor surface. This P-trap is similar to those used under sinks
and when full of water, it will form a seal against gases entering from the sewer system. As
this water will evaporate with time, the seal must be maintained by pouring a litre of water
down the drain every two to three months if an automatic primer is not present.
The electrical system in your home has been installed in accordance with the
requirements of the provincial electrical code. The power supply is fed to the home via
underground or overhead cable. With underground service cables, piping, gas lines, etc.,
care should be taken when digging on your property. For information on these
underground services, contact your hydro or gas provider, telephone and cable supplier,
or your local city building department.
The small glass enclosed meter mounted on the side of each Morgan Heights home is
your hydrometer. This is the property of your utility provider and it measures your
household electrical consumption. The voltage at the point of entry is generally 120/240
volts and 60 cycles per second.
Circuit protection will be via circuit breakers located in the electrical panel(s). The main
power shut-off will be located inside the electrical panel or immediately adjacent to it. This
panel and the location of the main breaker should be located upon moving in, before an
emergency occurs.
Should the circuit breaker “trip”; it is likely due to overloading of a specific circuit or a short
circuit in an appliance cord. The start-up load of electric motors can also temporarily
overload a circuit. To correct tripped breakers, isolate the cause of the overload or short
and disconnect it. The circuit breaker can then be reset by turning it to the "off" position
and then to the "on" position. If the breaker continually trips, contact an electrician.
A ground fault circuit interrupter (G.F.C.I.) is an additional electrical safety device installed
in the electrical system. This device is a breaker that can be located in the main electrical
panel or within specialty outlet receptacles and is designed to provide protection from
ground faults. The G.F.C.I. is extremely sensitive and will trip if grounding of the electrical
current is detected. Ground faults usually occur in older appliances and electrical
equipment or inexpensive extension cords. A poorly insulated extension cord lying on wet
ground will often cause a ground fault. Water and electricity are a poor combination so
protection is installed to the outlets in the bathroom and outdoors. If this breaker trips,
unplug the source of the ground fault and reset the breaker either at the panel or at the
outlet itself.
G.F.C.I. outlets should be tested monthly to ensure their proper operation.
Smoke, carbon monoxide, and fire detectors have been installed in accordance with the
requirements of the Building Code. They should be tested monthly to ensure their proper
operation, and should be cleaned twice a year with a vacuum.
Please note that these devices are connected directly to the electrical system of the home,
although some models are equipped with a battery backup. In models with battery
backups, the batteries should be changed twice a year to ensure their proper operation.
Regardless of type, the heating system is designed to maintain a minimum temperature of
21°C at the outside design temperature. The indoor temperature is measured in the
center of the room. This calculation is a health and safety issue defined by the Building
Code/Bylaw and is not directly related to comfort. Temperature variations from room to
room can be expected. The heating system may temporarily not be able to meet
comfortable temperatures in specific regions where the temperatures fall below the
outdoor design temperature.
There are numerous types of thermostatic controls for any given heating system. The
accuracy of these controls can vary due to internal heat gains caused by a continued
demand for heat. At times, it may be necessary to ignore the numerical temperature
settings and set the thermostat for a temperature that is comfortable. Adjusting a
thermostat to a setting higher than the temperature desired will not speed the rise in
The various heating systems available all have specific requirements for maintenance in
order to operate at maximum efficiency. The operation of your specific system is best
determined by reviewing the instructions provided by R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. or the
Heating systems can be noisy at times due to the expansion and contraction of the pipes
and other metal components of the distribution system. These noises are particularly
noticeable when starting up or cooling down, or at night (when it is quieter) and do not
affect the performance of the system.
Systems that rely on burning fuel to generate heat require makeup air for combustion.
This air supply must not be blocked as dangerous back drafting conditions can occur.
Heating systems will not operate unless the thermostat setting is higher than the room
temperature. Solar heat gains can warm a room or area to the extent that the thermostat
is warm enough not to be calling for more heat. The heating system will then remain
turned off and other rooms not positively affected by the heat of the sun can become cool.
With forced air systems, the heat outlets and cold air returns must be kept free of any
furniture or floor coverings, which could block the free, flow of air. In addition, the filters
must be cleaned or replaced at least twice a year to allow the unobstructed flow of air
through the furnace. The quality of the replacement filter used dramatically affects the air
quality within the home.
If your home has been equipped with a geothermal heating system you will have received
an EI Homeowner Manual, which is a comprehensive overview of your geothermal system
and heat exchanger called the “DeSuperHeater”. This system not only provides heating
and cooling to your home, but also diverts excess heat from the geothermal system to
your hot water tank.
The DeSuperHeater requires very few control adjustments once it is properly set, the
system is usually set to run in the “Auto Mode” so cooling and heating will come on
automatically as the room temperature rises or drops by 1.5 degrees from the set point
temperature. A thermostat (zone controller), located on the main floor, provides quick
access to the system with basic on and off controls, and increase and decrease set point
Filters are to be cleaned on a regular basis as per your EI Homeowner Manual, and the
DeSuperHeater should be checked on a monthly basis for warning messages. For
maintenance and troubleshooting, please refer to your EI Homeowner Manual.
The optimum year round humidity level to be maintained within the residence is
approximately 50%. Due to seasonal variations of the relative humidity outdoors, this level
of humidity can be impossible to maintain without the use of specialized mechanical
equipment. Mechanical means of maintaining a constant humidity within the home are
Furnace humidifiers, which add moisture to the indoor environment, are available, but they
must be checked frequently when in use to ensure that the proper water level is
maintained within the unit.
Due to Building Code/Bylaw requirements pertaining to energy conservation, current
standards for house construction require that the exterior envelope of the building be
sealed against incidental air leakage. This sealing of the exterior walls prohibits the
leakage of warm air to the outdoors from within the residence.
Warm air has the ability to hold more moisture than cold air; therefore, daily activities
within your new home such as showering, boiling water, and even respiration create
moisture in the form of water vapour. Surprisingly, this can total 7 - 9 litres (1½ to 2
gallons) of moisture per day with four occupants. The warm air holds this water in
suspension and as this moisture-laden air comes in contact with cold surfaces it will
condense and water will form. Condensation will fuel the creation of mold and mildew.
The failure of an owner to properly ventilate and maintain proper heating levels can
seriously affect a new home and the health of the occupants. Any resultant damage
due to an owner's actions would not be covered under the warranty.
The key to controlling humidity levels within the home and avoiding condensation is
adequate ventilation. Ventilation allows the warm moist air to be exhausted from the
home and replaced with dry cool air from the outdoors. This will marginally increase the
cost of heating as this cold air is brought up to room temperature; however, this added
cost is necessary to offset the harm the high humidity levels will cause.
As the outdoor temperature drops, the surface temperature of the exterior walls will also
drop. The air inside the house will not be able to sustain as high a level of relative
humidity. This will cause condensation to occur on cold surfaces.
The chart below provides a rough guideline as to the relative humidity levels that can be
sustained within the house as the temperature drops.
Outside air
Desirable maximum inside relative humidity
(%)at an indoor temperature of 21°°C (70°°F)
Windows or the toilet tank of the toilet used most frequently can be used as a guide to
determine whether or not the proper relative humidity is being maintained. As soon as
condensation occurs on inside window surfaces or on the tank of the toilet, steps should
be taken to reduce the relative humidity by controlling the moisture sources and/or by
increasing ventilation.
Ventilation is often the only effective means for removing moisture and dehumidifiers are
only practical in limited areas. If vented outdoors, exhaust fans in the kitchen and
bathroom will remove moisture created from cooking and bathing before the vapour can
circulate through the house. These fans should not exhaust into the attic space as this will
only exhaust the moisture into the attic potentially causing problems, and they need to be
run often enough to remove the air borne moisture. The length of time required will
depend on the number of occupants, the activities undertaken and outdoor climatic
Many new homes are now provided with intermittent timer controls that
regulate the operation of these fans, which should never be tampered with or turned off.
Windows are an effective means of ventilation and depending on weather conditions,
thoroughly airing out the home for 15 minutes a day may suffice. In addition, opening a
window near the source of moisture while the exhaust fan is in operation will allow for
cross ventilation and more effective moisture and odour removal.
Range hoods and exhaust fans are provided to reduce or eliminate cooking odours and
excess moisture. Not all range hoods vent directly outdoors. For efficient operation and to
reduce potential fire hazards created by grease accumulation, filters should be washed in
mild detergent. They can also be run through a dishwasher. Range hoods that do not vent
outdoors are usually provided with a charcoal filter that helps remove grease and odours.
These filters should be replaced in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Some homes will be equipped with a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) for ventilation
purposes. This mechanical unit continually exhausts stale warm air from within the rooms
of a new home (usually, the kitchen, bathroom and laundry areas), and supplies fresh air
to the remaining main living areas. The heat recovery aspect of this unit consists of a heat
exchanger inside the unit that warms the fresh outside supply air with the latent heat of the
stale warm air that is being exhausted. This is done via a series of plastic baffles, which
allows the heat transfer without mixing the two air sources.
HRVs run continuously and are a superior means of controlling humidity and air quality
within the home. They are not required by the Building Code/Bylaw and at an additional
cost are generally only installed if requested. Freezing weather can affect the operation of
the HRV due to ice build up within the unit. Precautions should be taken in severe
weather to prevent this from occurring. Refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations in
this regard.
All homes are insulted with R – 14 in the exterior walls and R-28 in the ceilings from the
attic. Do not store items in the attic as it may block ventilation.
Any appliances included with the purchase of your new home, which have been installed
by the builder or his agents, will have been checked to ensure proper operation.
Appliances generally come with instructions, which detail the operating procedures for the
specific appliance. These instructions must be followed in order to maintain the
manufacturer's warranty. Any warranty cards provided with the equipment should be
completed and sent to the manufacturer to ensure your warranty obligations are met.
With dryers, check and clean the exterior vents on a monthly basis as they commonly
become plugged with lint, which reduces the efficiency of the dryer and can be a fire
This warranty is provided by R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. and bonded by Travelers
(a) in the first 12 months of the Warranty, for detached dwelling units or dwelling
units in a multi-family building, coverage for any Defect in Materials and Labour.
(b) in the first 15 months of the Warranty, for the Common Property, common
facilities and other assets of a Strata Corporation, coverage for any defect in
Materials and Labour.
(c) in the first 24 months of the Warranty,
i. coverage for any Defect in Materials and Labour supplied for the gas, electrical,
plumbing, heating, ventilation, and air conditioning Delivery and Distribution
ii. coverage for any Defect in Materials and Labour supplied for the exterior
cladding, caulking, windows, and doors that may lead to detachment or material
damage to the new home or Common Property,
iii. coverage for any Defect in Materials and Labour which renders the new home
unfit to live in, and;
iv. non-compliance with, or a violation of the Building Code if the non-compliance or
1) constitutes an unreasonable health or safety risk, or
2) has resulted in, or is likely to result in, Material Damage to the new home.
Coverage for the Building Envelope for up to five years for Defects in the Building
Envelope of a new home, including any defect, which permits unintended water
penetration such that it causes, or is likely to cause, Material Damage to the new
Coverage for Structural Defects for up to ten years for:
(a) any Defect in Materials and Labour that results in the failure of a Load Bearing
part of the new home, and;
(b) any Defect which causes Structural Damage that materially and adversely affects
the use of the new home for residential occupancy.
For complete Warranty Coverage information, refer to your
Travelers Guarantee Home Warranty Certificate.
The Warranty does not cover the following:
a) weathering, normal wear and tear, deterioration or deflection consistent with normal
industry standards;
b) normal shrinkage of materials caused by drying after construction;
c) any loss or damage which arises while the new home is being used primarily or
substantially for non-residential purposes;
d) materials, labour, or design supplied by an owner;
e) any damage to the extent that it is caused or made worse by an owner or Third Party,
(i) negligent or improper maintenance or improper operation by anyone other than the
builder or its employees, agents, or sub-contractors,
(ii) failure of anyone, other than the builder or its employees, agents, or subcontractors, to comply with the Warranty requirements of the manufacturers of
appliances, equipment, or fixtures,
(iii) alterations to the new home, including the conversion of the non-living space into
living space or the conversion of the new home into two (2) or more units, by
anyone other than the builder or its employees, agents, or sub-contractors while
undertaking their obligations under the sales contract, and,
(iv) changes to the lot grading of the ground by anyone other than the builder or its
employees, agents, or sub-contractors;
f) failure of an owner to take timely action to prevent or minimize loss or damage,
including the failure to give prompt notice to R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. of a Defect or
discovered loss or a potential Defect or loss;
g) any damage caused by insects or rodents and other animals, unless the damage
results from non-compliance with the Building Code by the builder or its employees,
agents, or sub-contractors;
h) accidental loss or damage from acts of nature including, but not limited to, fire,
explosion, smoke, water escape, glass breakage, windstorm, hail, lightning, falling
trees, aircraft, vehicles, flood, earthquake, avalanche, landslide, and changes in the
level in the underground water table which are not reasonably foreseeable by the
i) bodily injury or damage to personal property or real property which is not part of the
new home;
j) any Defect in, or caused by, materials or work supplied by anyone other than the
builder or its employees, agents, or sub-contractors;
k) changes, alterations, or additions made to the new home by anyone after initial
occupancy, except those performed by the builder or its employees, agents, or subcontractors under the construction contract or sales agreement, or as required by
Travelers Guarantee;
l) contaminated soil;
m) subsidence of the land around the new home or along utility lines, other than
subsidence beneath footings of the new home or under Driveways or Walkways;
n) diminution in the value of the new home;
o) landscaping, both hard and soft, including plants, fencing, detached patios, gazebos
and similar structures;
p) non-residential detached structures including sheds, garages, carports or outbuildings,
or any structure or construction not attached to or forming an integral part of a multi-unit
building or the new home;
q) any commercial use area and any construction associated with a commercial use area;
r) roads, curbs, and lanes;
s) site grading and surface drainage, except as required by the Building Code;
t) the operation of municipal services, including sanitary and storm sewer;
u) septic tanks or septic fields;
v) the quality or quantity of water, either from a piped municipal water supply or from a
w) a water well, but excluding equipment installed for the operation of a water well used
exclusively for the new home, which equipment is considered to be part of the plumbing
system for the new home;
x) damage caused or made worse by the failure of an owner to take reasonable steps to
mitigate any damage.
For complete Warranty Coverage information, refer to your
Travelers Guarantee Home Warranty Certificate.
This form is sent to R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. by Travelers Guarantee
This form cannot by modified
Warranty Commencement Date as defined by Travelers Guarantee is the earlier of:
the date of actual occupancy of the New Home, and
the transfer of the legal title of the New Home to the Owner
Three Part Form:
White copy for Travelers Guarantee
Yellow copy for R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd.
Pink copy for Homeowner
This form will be presented to the homeowner at initial walk through
Homeowner will be required to sign this form which will list any owner or operating
manuals that are missing
Three Part Form:
White copy for R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd.
Yellow copy for Travelers Guarantee
Pink copy for Homeowner
The attached form will be completed with homeowner’s name, lot number and other
information and presented to the homeowner by the R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd.
representative at initial walk through of the home
This form is used to document outstanding deficiencies found in the home at the
time of walk through
The homeowner will be asked to sign the form confirming the deficiencies
This form will be used between the homeowner and R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. as a
method to monitor and track repairs
Three Part Form:
White copy for R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd.
Yellow copy for Service Representative
Pink copy for Homeowner
Please note it is important to document any noted deficiencies to ensure that R.A.B.
Ventures #1 Ltd. can provide the homeowner a confident level of customer service.
The paint colours used in the Yorkson South sub-division fall into the
predetermined colour schemes (excluding custom colours). There is the possibility
on-site changes were made, which may or may not be applicable to your new
home, to accommodate sales requirements. Upon request to R.A.B. Ventures #1
Ltd., specific paint colour information is available for a period of two years from the
date of purchase.
A touch up paint kit has been left in your home with reference numbers for the
colours used on the major wall surfaces in your home.
Please Note:
Paint that has aged will fade and will not match fresh paint
Always test paint colours in a spot that is inconspicuous
Many trade contractors and product manufacturers or suppliers were used in the
construction of your new home. These companies or individuals generally provide
a one-year warranty for defects in material and labour, however these may vary by
product and/or supplier.
A list of these trades and suppliers can be found in the folder in Section 5 of this
homeowner manual.
Should you require service, outside the warranty program, you may wish to contact
the appropriate trade or supplier directly. Please document any contact and if
prompt service is not provided contact R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. directly.
Check and clean sump.
Check grades around
house and fill in low
Check exterior caulking
and recaulk if
Check weatherstripping and adjust if
Clean exterior cladding.
Clean gutters and down
Check roof for defects.
Check foundation and
concrete slabs for signs
of leakage or damage.
Sani Holding Tank
Recaulk showers and
countertops if
Seal grout.
Lubricate door hinges.
Wash range hood filter.
Disconnect hoses and
drain hose bibs.
Blow out sprinkler lines.
Drain and refill hot
water tank.
Check GFI circuits
Check smoke/carbon
monoxide detectors
Clean fireplace, furnace
and filters.
Service heating system.
If painting the basement floor, ensure there is proper ventilation, fumes from paint and
the pilot from your hot water tank can be a dangerous combination.
Use chemical de-icers on your concrete driveway and walkways. The use of salt may
compromise the concrete surface.
Never climb a ladder that is not secure and stable.
Only use the recommended wattage in light fixtures.
Shut off the furnace switch before opening the furnace door.
Providing a safe environment for children is a primary concern for parents and caretakers
and everyone who shares the joy of watching children grow. R.A.B. Properties want your
family to enjoy a safe, secure home, without fear of injury. Being aware of, and eliminating
the potential for accidents is key to avoiding the heartbreak of an injured child.
The kitchen and bathroom are two rooms that require particular attention to avoid
accidents. Here are some tips about how to make those rooms safer.
In The Kitchen
The kitchen is one of the most dangerous places in the home. Children are at risk from
burns, poisoning, choking and cuts. The majority of burns are from hot foods and liquids.
Children can be poisoned from household cleaners and vitamins. They can choke on
certain foods and small objects, and get cut from kitchen appliances and silverware.
To Prevent Burns
Keep children out of the kitchen while cooking and supervise closely all other times.
Set the water heater thermostat to 49° degrees Celsius or less and consider
installing anti-scald devices.
Place hot foods and liquids away from the edges of counters and tables, and never
on tablecloths or placemats.
Keep appliance cords tied up, out of children's reach and unplugged when not in
use. Place covers over all electrical outlets.
Use back burners and turn pot handles to the back of the stove when cooking.
Install guards on stove knobs.
Never hold children and hot foods or liquids at the same time.
Never let children remove hot foods or liquids from a microwave oven.
Keep a fire extinguisher easily accessible.
Wear close fitting clothing while cooking.
Do not leave cooking food unattended.
To Prevent Choking
Keep round, hard foods like grapes, popcorn, raw carrots, hard candies, nuts and
raisins away from children ages 4 and under.
Keep small items such as safety pins, coins, buttons and tacks out of reach.
Learn CPR and First Aid.
To Prevent Falls
Keep children securely strapped into highchairs, swings and other juvenile
To Prevent Cuts
Store knives and other sharp utensils in drawers or cabinets secured with safety
In The Bathroom
Children should never be left unattended in the bathroom. They are at risk from drowning,
scalds, poisoning and falls. Children can drown in less than an inch of water. Scald burns
occur when children are left unsupervised, and are placed in water that is too hot or when
another child turns on the hot water.
To Prevent Drowning
Never leave children alone in the bathroom, even for a few seconds.
Place safety locks on all toilet lids.
To Prevent Scald Burns
Set the water heater thermostat to 49° degrees Celsius or less and consider
installing anti-scald devices.
Always test the water temperature before putting children in the bathtub or shower.
Turn children away from the bathtub spout so they cannot turn on the faucet.
To Prevent Poisonings
Store all medicines, vitamins and cosmetics locked out of reach.
Always use child-resistant packaging.
Keep Ipecac Syrup on hand for use on the advice of a poison control centre or a
Store all detergents, household products, pet supplies, out of reach.
Store garden supplies, fertilizer, plant food etc. out of reach of children.
Post the control centre and emergency numbers near telephones.
To Prevent Falls
Apply non-slip surfaces and install grab bars in the bathtub and shower.
Secure bathroom rugs with non-slip backing.
To Prevent Electrical Burns
Keep electrical appliances away from water and out of children's reach.
Place covers over all electrical outlets.
To Prevent Cuts
Store sharp objects such as razors and scissors locked out of reach.
R.A.B. Ventures #1 Ltd. abides by building codes when building a new home to ensure
that the structure, wiring, and other construction aspects create a safe home for you and
your family. We believe the key to protecting your family is to identify existing or potential
hazards, which tend to develop over time, and have them fixed. Most of these hazards
are easy to recognize, and by taking simple steps to correct them, injuries can be
prevented. Homeowners with infants and small children should take extra precautions to
ensure that the home is a safe place. The primary dangers in the home come from falls,
poisoning and fires, so there are a variety of practical tips that will protect you and your
loved ones. Remember, it is important to re-check your home from time to time to ensure
that the common household hazards are under control.
Falls are still the leading cause of injury and death in the home. Most injuries result from
slips and falls on floor surfaces, stairs and in the bathroom. Here are some general
practices to ensure your home is free of all hazards.
Keep the stairways and floors clean and clear. Remove all debris, clutter and clean up
spills immediately. Do not store anything on stairways and keep electrical cords and
other trip hazards out of the walkways.
Ensure handrails are in good condition and use them when walking up and down
Secure area rugs and runners, particularly on linoleum, wood and tile floors, with a
rubber mat pad, non-skid foam backing or two-sided tape.
Ensure all walkways, both inside and out, are well lit.
Take proper precautions when working at heights. Follow manufacturer’s instructions
when using ladders.
Protect young children from falls from heights, such as windows, high porches,
stairways and balconies.
Fire remains a leading accidental killer in the home. Here are a few quick tips for
preventing fires and for being prepared in the event of an emergency.
Test smoke detectors monthly. A rule of thumb for changing the batteries -- change
them when you change your clocks for daylight savings time.
Ensure that you have an all-purpose fire extinguisher in the kitchen and that each
family member knows how to properly use it.
Follow the manufacturer’s instruction when using space heaters and keep them away
from flammable materials such as curtains, furniture, etc.
Have your fireplace chimney inspected and cleaned annually.
Have a fire escape plan. Conduct occasional fire drills, practice escape routes, and
designate a safe meeting place away from the home.
Keep small appliances unplugged and turn off lights, TVs, and other electronic
equipment when not in use. All electrical equipment should be kept away from water.
Locate and inspect all electrical cords, and have a professional replace any frayed,
cracked or worn cords. Teach small children not to play with cords or put anything in
an electrical outlet.
Do not overload electrical circuits.
Be certain to use the correct size fuses and know how to recognize and reset tripped
breakers or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI) located in places where electricity
may meet water (i.e. bathroom, kitchen).
I _________________________as the registered homeowner of the house located at
Name of homeowner
_____________________ in the city of _________________ acknowledge and permit
House Address
Name of City
access to my home by the service representative from _________________________
Name of Company
to provide service to my home on ___________________.
I hereby agree to waive any rights at law or other remedies, against R.A.B. Ventures #1
Ltd. or its, directors, employees, agents, trades or representatives, for any or all loss or
damage which may be caused to my home or contents thereof as a result of the action,
activities or lack thereof, for the above named company, on the date specified.
I hereby acknowledge that I have been provided an alternative to be present at the point in
time while work is to be completed by the above named company and I have chosen not
to be present.
Date __________________________________
Signature of Home Owner ______________________________
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