17Eo Street 240 Phnom Penh Cambodia 023 990 951
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www.asialifeguide.com
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Contents
012010
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Editorial
Business a bit slow these days?
Get noticed with
Well, Christmas has
come and gone. New Year’s
resolutions have held steadfast or fallen by the wayside.
Bellies have expanded, flights
have been taken – and taken
back. Now it’s back to business as usual.
For our cover story this
month we delve into the world
of live rock in the capital.
Things seem to be changing
in this town we call home. I
think it’s safe to say Phnom
Penh is actually getting cooler.
Look out Bangkok – here we
come… we may be 20 or 30
years behind you – but here
we come none the less.
For the new year, we thought
it fitting that we spruce up the
magazine a bit for you, dear
readers. We’ve cleaned up our
design, and added a couple of
new special treats. And since
Siem Reap really seems to be
back on the up-and-up we
thought it high time we added
a section devoted to the fair
city of temples and tourists.
Our relatively new addition
to our team, James Grant,
has been extra busy of late
– designing, choreographing and photographing our
new fashion section. Let us
know what you think. Are we
ready for this influx of style?
James spent a day with two
sweaty male models in a
boxing ring. It’s a bit of a
fetish of his.
Kate Liana returned to the
riverfront to finish what she
started last month. It’s new
and improved and looking
lovely as the billboards have
been taken down and replaced
with manicured lawns and
colourful flowerbeds. Along the
way Kate stopped for a somewhat inappropriately named,
yet very tasty drink.
Since we knew you’d all be
wanting to get back into shape
after one too many mince pies
and helpings of Christmas ham
you’ll be happy to know we sent
Kate out to get the low-down
on the personal trainer scene.
Let us help you keep those New
Year’s resolutions. On the other
hand, for those of you who have
carried the Christmas cheer into
the New Year, Simon Jacy has
some great advise on where to
go and what to drink to battle
that hangover.
It’s a rockin’ issue this
month. We hope you enjoy
reading even more than we
enjoy creating it for you. As
always, if you have a comment or a question about
this issue, please email us at
[email protected], or
comment on the stories online
at: www.asialifeguide.com
Happy New Year Phnom Penh!
For advertising in print or online contact us at:
[email protected] or 012 960 076
Visit us online at:
www.AsiaLIFEGuide.com
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08 in the penh
18 calendar
22 storyboard
26 cover story
34 food corner
44 bar stool
52 scrapbook
54 kaleidoscope
58 leisure & wellness
64 next generation
66 shopping
72 the insider
76 siem reap
81 getaways
88 unplugged
90 map
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contents
Behind the Curtain
Managing Editor: Naomi T. Robinson
[email protected]
Tel: 017 697 136
Associate Editor: Nora Lindstrom
[email protected]
Art Director: Keith Kelly
[email protected]
Sales Manager: Qudy Xu
[email protected]
Sales: Sorn Chantha
[email protected]
Photographers: Nathan Horton, Conor Wall & James Grant
Proof Reader: Tanja Wessels
Accounts & Distribution: Seang Seyha
Publisher: Mark Jackson
[email protected]
Special thanks to: Kristen Avis, Sam Campbell, Zoe Daniel, Tom DiChristopher,
Darren Gall, Craig Gerard, Coral Glennie, Owen Griffiths, Luke Hunt, Trevor
Keidan, John Lathrop, Melissa Fisher, Will Koenig, Gwang Ching Lee, Kate
Liana, Greg Lowe, Antonia Moa, Sam Moffett, Our Books, David Preece, Vuth,
and Sok Yeng – for their contribution to this issue.
For advertising enquiries call Qudy on 012 960 076 or Chantha on 012 576 878.
If you want a copy of AsiaLIFE Guide Phnom Penh delivered to your doorstep
email: [email protected] or call: 012 960 076
AsiaLIFE Guide Phnom Penh is printed in Cambodia by Sok Heng Printing House
21C Street 232 & corner Street 113, Sangkat Boeung Prolit, Khan 7 Makara, Phnom
Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia.
On the Cover:
Photography and design by Keith Kelly.
Partners:
AsiaLIFE is a registered trademark.
No content may be reproduced in any form
without prior authorisation of the owners.
© Mekong Media Company Ltd.
Keith Kelly
Nathan Horton graduated with a BA
honors degree in Photographic Arts in
1990 from Central London after which
he started a two-year photographic trip
around Asia which turned into 4 years.
He then settled back in London and
embarked on a commercial photographic career. He became a widely
published photographer, recognized for
his great passion of life, people, travel,
food and drink by major magazines
and newspapers, including Elle, Food
& Travel, Land Rover, and The Times.
However he never managed to shake
off the travel bug and he worked hard
to win regular travel commissions. In
September 2006 his infectious love of
photography and South East Asia lead
him to start running photographic
tours in Cambodia. Again in Phnom
Penh apart from running very successful workshops and tours he has quickly
gained a good reputation as a professional photographer and subsequently
a wide and varied client base.
For over a decade prior to AsiaLIFE
Guide, Keith worked extensively for
Advertising Agencies in the USA
concepting, pitching and producing
innovative campaigns for digital and
print media. Some of his nationally
awarded work ranges from promotional poster designs, beverage bottle
and packaging, brochures for the
Plácido Domingo directed Washington National Opera, to internationally reaching tourism campaigns
for the States of Louisiana and
Virginia. His work on high-pressure
large-scale publications made him
a perfect fit for AsiaLIFE Guide,
which he has been a part of since it’s
conception in late 2006. Since moving to Cambodia he’s also enjoyed
the additional experience of working
freelance for organizations and companies not just in Asia, but Africa as
well. You can see more of his work at
www.keithakelly.com.
Nathan Horton
home is where The SHOP is
-since
baker y and delicatessen
2001# 3 9 , s t r e e t 2 4 0 ,P h n o m Pe n h
023 986 964 or [email protected]
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to place your orders
012009
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 7
in the penh
in the penh
The Month That Was
gold, carwash, birthday, musicians, silent movie
3
Chris Minko Gets Gold
Prime Minister Hun Sen himself
awarded CNVLD Secretary
General Chris Minko a gold
medal for services for persons
with disability on World Disability Day Dec. 3. Acknowledging his outstanding provision
of sporting, rehabilitation and
socio-economic opportunities for persons with disability,
Chris was decorated for his work
with CNVLD, which hosted
the 2009 WOVD Volleyball
World Cup in December. Whilst
accepting the medal as a great
personal honour, Australianborn Minko stressed the
collective effort of the nation’s
athletes with a disability, the
CNVLD management team
and the hundreds of people who
have contributed time, effort
and funds to building the organisation since 1996. “It is the
combined dedication of athletes
and individuals such as National
Coach Christian Zepp over
many years which has allowed
the CNVLD to develop into the
most successful and respected
sports organisation in Cambodia
and as such this medal represents
an award for the whole CNVLD
family,” Minko said.
3
Groovin’ at the Carwash
The funky side of Phnom
Penh came out to groove at
The Lounge for their popular
Carwash party on Dec. 3. Staff
were decked out in their finest
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@Riverhouse
developments at the adjacent
former Jup space.
4
AsiaMotion Turns One
Local photo agency Asia Motion
celebrated its first anniversary
in style at Equinox on Dec. 4.
Photographers at the agency,
who shoot a mix of commercial, art and documentary
work, showcased their work at
the party, attended by Phnom
Penh artists and art lovers. On
hand to oversee the festivities
and introduce her artists and
guest photographer John Vink
was Isabelle Lesser, agent and
founder of AsiaMotion. The
work displayed included various
projections, slide shows, and still
photography, some Cambodiabased and other international
work. Upstairs guests were
treated to a web documentary on
the Khmer Rouge, 30 years later.
Nicolas Axelrod also presented a
slideshow that was later shown at
the Elsewhere First Friday party
the same evening.
4
No Sleep till Brooklyn
@Equinox
‘fros, and the riverside club was
transformed into a thriving discotheque a la Saturday Night Fever. The crowd steadily built up
as the main attraction, DJ Dirty
Darryl from NYC took over the
tables and heated up the dance
floor with his signature mix of
hip hop, funk, rock and soul. A
mix of disco lovers, people out
for a night of dancing, as well as
regular nightlife denizens were
all present and excited to hear
the international DJ. Look out
for theme parties every Thursday
at The Lounge, and exciting new
New York City band Ratatat
blew away a packed crowd
at FCC on Dec. 4. Huge in
the U.S. and Europe, the duo
impressed fans and won many
new ones with their unique,
funk-inflected electronica. The
evening started off with DJs TRock and Jordan Howard from
the U.S., who got the crowd up
and dancing with indie disco
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in the penh
@FCC
@Phnom Penh Photo Festival
@FCC
and dub-step. Ratatat’s dark, ambient, almost unearthly grooves
kept everyone dancing until well
after midnight, with the audience
thrilled at the chance to hear
music of that calibre. For the
US$5 cover charge, guests got
not only admission to the show,
but also two free cocktails. US$1
from each ticket went to Friends
International.
their experience of playing in
Southeast Asia as “totally crazy”,
after the gig the band said playing
at the FCC was a great experience
and that they would be happy to
be back. For more information
on the curiously named band,
visit www.ihearthiroshima.com
6
5
PP Hearts Hiroshima
It was a field day for the Penh’s
indie kids on Dec. 5 when
Brisbane band I Heart Hiroshima
rocked into town. On what the
band termed the “expat tour”,
20-somethings Matt, Susie and
Cameron arrived in the capital
fresh from a gig in Ho Chi Minh
City. At the F, the rockers treated
Phnom Penh fans to an hour’s
set of thumping indie tunes led
by Susie at the drums. Many of
the songs were from the band’s
new album The Rip. The crowd
obediently nodded their heads
as is custom at rock gigs, but
there was no mistaking I Heart
Hiroshima hit the spot for indiestarved music lovers. Describing
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Night of the Year
Phnom Penh Photo Festival
came to a close on Dec. 6 at Wat
Botum Park with the dazzling
Night of the Year event. Featuring 12 screens of rotating photos,
the public event showcased “one
year of the world in pictures”.
Music accompanied each presentation, and mats were laid
in front of each screen to allow
guests to relax and enjoy the
shows. Featuring everything from
work by local photographers,
through news shots, to art photography from around the world,
the event gave interesting insights
to events and issues that both
did and didn’t make the news in
2009. AsiaLIFE also took part in
the show, exhibiting some of our
photographers’ most interesting
work from the past year.
6
the races were about having fun
and running in an utterly unique
Over 3,450 participants from 48 place, whilst raising money for
countries gathered on Sunday
the benefit people affected by
Dec. 6, to race in the 14th annual landmines and HIV/AIDS.
Angkor Wat International HalfMarathon, 10K, and 5K races.
Spanish Musicians at FCC
It was an early start for the halfDec. 8 FCC welcomed Actuacion
marathon runners who gathered
de la Cuarentuna, an impressive
at 6.30am at the starting line.
20-piece ensemble from Spain for
With the cool morning sunrise
an evening of traditional Spanish
peeking up over the complex,
music. Decked out in ruffled
eager runners sprinted off at the
blouses and jaunty red sashes, and
sound of the gun. Malaysian
armed with guitars and castanets,
Kien Mau Lim took the gold in
the musicians serenaded guests in
the men’s half-marathon with a
deep, soulful voices. Music lovers
respectable time of 1 hr 13 min
swooned, and couples took to the
25 sec, while or the women Sindance floor to flaunt their moves.
gaporean Vivian Tang crossed the The ensemble, all of whom are
finish line at 1 hour 23 min 51
lawyers, perform several times a
sec. Cambodians inspired their
year in South America, Ukraine,
countrymen by taking first place and Cancun. It was their recent
in the 10K Artificial Leg Race
trip to Bangkok, and the relationand second place in the 21K.
ship with the FCC that led them
More than anything, however,
to Phnom Penh. The band was
Angkor Wat
Half-Marathon
8
@Meta House
as charmed by Cambodia as the
residents, and they’re eager to
return. Even after they had left
the stage, they wandered from
table to table, strumming and
serenading late into the night.
9
Gri-Gri at Meta
12
Funkastic Pirates
It was a predominantly French
crowd that welcomed the return
of local band Mekong Pirates at
the Chinese House on Dec. 12.
Playing at the ground floor of the
establishment, the ten-strong band
packed the room, with some of the
eager audience spilling out onto
the street. In addition to their
usual repertoire, new material in
the form of five funky tunes was
performed by the band, who – to
prove their pirate credentials –
wore an array of scarves and hats.
Some of the group’s keener fans
were up and jumping from the
very first chord. It didn’t take long
for the rest of the audience to follow suit as the Pirate’s catchy tunes
filled the room. Singing in French
and Khmer, the band’s evident
joy of playing again after a break
of six months ensured the party
continued well into the night.
Phnom Penh-based artist Marc
Pollack’s latest exhibition opened
Dec. 9 at the first floor of
Meta House. Entitled ‘Winter
in Phnom Penh’, it featured
colourful, book-sized paintings
the artist created intentionally
to avoid any reflection of light.
Also on display was a cabinet full
of gri-gri – portable art objects
designed to help their owners
navigate the vagaries of life and
protect them from evil. They are
said to connect the spiritual and
religious worlds with the world
of art. Pollack has the rank of
“Maribu” which entitles him to
create gri-gri and other talisman
Stanton Warrior Mash Up
and to imbue them with meaning
Pontoon may still be absent from
and special powers.
the riverfront, but that hasn’t
stopped DJ collective CP5 from
Sexy Spies and
catering to the appetite of Phnom
Secret Agents
Penh’s party hungry expat crowd.
Spontaneous break-dancing lit
On Dec. 12, Platinum Club
up the dance floor as westernopened its top floor for club
ers and Khmer alike partied the
night Mashed Up. Tiny Tunes,
night away for Roctopussy 007
the capital’s premier break-dance
at Riverhouse Lounge on Dec.
crew kicked the party off, dazzling
10. The event brought out the
town’s secret agents, as the theme the audience with a breathtakwas none other than Bond, James ing display of choreographed
Bond. Free vodka guns circulated acrobatics and raw hip hop style.
through the crowd as sultry Bond The party then heated up with
sets from DJ Blue, DJ Illest and
girls knocked back complimenU.K. act DJ Tech 12. The climax
tary martini shots and everyone
of the night saw Dominic B, one
made merry. Bangkok-based DJ
half of U.K. break-beat sensations
Octo, with a “license to thrill”,
took charge of the music playing Stanton Warriors take charge of
the music. Supplying the perfect
the freshest blend of hip hop,
blend of progressive breaks and
r&b and electro. With the party
alternative electronic, he left the
in full swing tuxedoed westerners danced alongside locals as the mixed Khmer-western crowd with
no choice but to shock out to the
whole building was shaken, but
sound of the U.K. underground.
not stirred.
12
10
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in the penh
@Le Liban
Building Work
Whether you’re indoors or out, it seems drilling
noises, hammering, and general screeching are simply
impossible to avoid.
12 18
Stylish in Silk
The garden of Le Liban was the
perfect setting for the Au Fil d
l’Asie fashion show on Dec. 12.
Organised by local NGO shop
UpToYou!, the show featured
a variety of dresses made from
silk from Takeo Province. While
local models strutted along the
catwalk in some of the shop’s
more modern and daring designs,
foreign models showed how to
pull off traditional Cambodian
gear. Office suits, saris, shalwar
kameez and full-length evening
gowns were also showcased by the
multi-ethnic crew of models. The
show was preceded by a presentation on the production of silk.
Le Liban treated guests to either
traditional Khmer food including lok lak and papaya salad, or
to the establishment’s signature
Lebanese set dinner (US$12).
Curtis Talks to a Stranger
Dec 18 Curtis King Band brought
the house down at Talkin to a
Stranger with hard charging rock
and blues. A lively crowd was up
and dancing to covers by Radiohead, James Brown, Led Zeppelin, and U2. Guest musicians
floated on and off stage, the lead
singer – Iggy Pop’s long-lost twin
– slithered through the crowd, and
fans partied until the early hours.
Founder Curtis King formed the
band in Dalat 15 years ago, which
has become a popular fixture
on the Saigon music scene since
relocating there. All the members
agreed they love coming to Phnom
Penh, where live music is rare and
greatly appreciated. And the crowd
agreed that they should return
soon. “When we got to town, our
picture was on the back of the tuk
tuk we rode,” said King. It doesn’t
get more rock-n-roll than that.
15 20
Marine Ky at Java
The upstairs gallery of Java Café
was the setting for the opening
of an exhibition highlighting
a sequence of new works by
Cambodian artist Marine Ky on
Dec. 15. Entitled Changing the
here and now (Shall we start with
ourselves?...), the exhibition showcases artwork featuring multiple
stupas. These are considered to
be the representation of Buddha’s
mind, as well as the embodiment
of wisdom that reveals the path to
enlightenment. Arranged across
the canvas, the cut-and-pasted
stupas are overlaid with quotes in
English and French. According to
the artist, the quotes were chosen
for having made a strong impression on her life as they address the
issue of inner change. The exhibition runs through to Jan. 15.
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Silent movies
Fans of the silver screen received a
special treat on Dec. 20 when Wat
Botum Park played host to an evening screening of two early works
of English comedian actor Charlie
Chaplin. The films were accompanied by live music from the band
of Yim Theatre, whose excellent
timing and humorous interpretations added an enchanting
Cambodian feel to the American
classics. The event was organised
by the CCF and was attended by
an integrated crowd of Westerners and Khmer. Though Chaplin’s
slapstick performance is almost a
century old, it still had the ability
to make audiences laugh, while
Wat Botum Park proved itself to
yet again be the cultural outdoor
space of the Penh.
New Year
One is never enough, so it’s a good thing there are
another two coming up!
Swine Flu
The Ministry of Health in December reporting 480
people have contracted the virus since its arrival in
the Kingdom in June. And no, you don’t get the virus
from pigs...
Tiger
Just do it Mr Playboy of the Greens.
Going up
Going down
Recession
New year, new economy, and talk of the downturn is
getting boring.
Temperature
Blissful January is here. Enjoy it while it lasts (31 days).
ECCC
Set me free, said Duch, and the tribunal descended
into uncertainty. Will the court’s first trial also be its
last?
Golf
A year without Woods is likely
to make the course boring.
News and Events
pamper, movies, rights, dance
@Bridges Project
Oliver Stone in the Penh
The Bridges project by the
International Peace Foundation
continues in January with a visit
by none other than American
filmmaker Oliver Stone. Speaking on film-making and peacebuilding, the famous director
hopes to show how films break
down barriers through communicating and sharing behaviour
and ideas of a basic humanity
that exists between all. Stone
has a long-lasting affiliation to
the region, having first arrived
in Saigon as a young teacher in
1965. That same year, he also
made his first visit to Cambodia.
He later served in the Vietnam
War, which he says changed
his life forever. “I was never the
same after Vietnam. It both
deepened and softened me,”
he says. “The influence of the
Asian mentality on my thinking perhaps eluded me at the
time, but came back to haunt
me in the subsequent years after
returning to the West.” Now a
Buddhist, Stone has made several
films about Vietnam, including
Platoon, Born on the 4th of July,
and Heaven & Earth. Though he
withdrew from a film project set
in Cambodia, his upcoming visit
may rekindle his interest in filming in the country. “Cambodia
is a flower, and always was one
of the most beautiful countries,”
the filmmaker says. Oliver Stone
will deliver his public lecture at
the University of Cambodia on
Jan. 27 at 2pm. Other upcoming lectures in the Bridges series
include “The Future of Science
and Human Development” by
Prof. David J. Ross on Jan. 6
at 2pm, “Why Global Markets
Have Failed to Reduce Inequality” by Prof. Eric S. Maskin on
Jan. 20 at 2pm, and “Science
for Peace” by Prof. Torsten N.
Wiesel on Feb. 3 at 2pm, all at
the University of Cambodia. For
more information and free seat
reservation call 023 993 275,
012 483 508. Also visit peacefoundation.net
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 13
in the penh
by Theaterworks of Singapore
with well-known Ong Keng Sen
as artist director. It aims to begin
a process of aligning Amrita’s
efforts to develop Cambodian
contemporary dance form with
current trends taking place
throughout the international contemporary arts community. The
workshop will take place between
Jan. 6-10 in Phnom Penh and
Jan. 11-14 is Siem Reap, with a
public showing to be confirmed
on Jan. 13.
Pamper yourself
Four girls, four hours, champagne
and a gourmet dinner is the latest
attraction at the Penh’s casino
cum entertainment complex
Naga World. For US$75 each,
the establishment offers a party
of indulgence featuring a foot
massage accompanied with champagne, followed by a body scrub
and a body massage at luxurious
The Spa. Thrown in are also a
private sauna and steam rooms, as
well as a Jacuzzi. To top it off you
and your friends are then treated
to dinner at the sophisticated Le
Gourmet restaurant. Though it
@Champei
may be out of most people’s daily
budget, everyone deserves a bit of
pampering every once in a while, with the government overshadand what better way to bond
owing some planned events.
with your girlfriends? For more
information call Naga World on
Promoting sustainable
023 228 822.
tourism
The third edition of Stay Another
US film shoots in the Penh
Day, a guide to sustainable and
The Cambodia Film Commission
responsible tourism in Cambodia
played host to the crew of upcomwas launched at Hotel Camboing US-film “I am that Man” over
diana on Dec. 11. Featuring a
the first few days of December.
mixture of NGO and private
Shooting for two days in the capital initiatives, the booklet aims to
and two in Kampot, the mixed
encourage tourists to see more of
American-Khmer crew among other Cambodia than simply Angkor
things staged a car explosion by
Wat, whilst simultaneously
Norodom School featuring 150 kids supporting good causes. “Stay
as extras. The film itself is about a
Another Day in Cambodia gives
Navy SEAL team that rescues an
a perfect guidance to all those
agent and uncovers a plot against
who want to learn more about
the US, led by a Chechen separatist a country,” Peter Bolster, Chief
with strong ties to the Mexican
Technical Advisor for GTZ
Drug Cartels. With time running
Private Sector Promotion, said.
out, the SEAL team must act im“They will understand Cambodia
mediately to save thousands of lives. better and I’m confident that they
Written by Kurt Johnstad of “300”
will come again one day.” Availfame, and directed by Scott Waugh able free of charge at a variety of
and Mouse McCoy, the flick natuestablishment around the country,
rally ends with the SEALs foiling
the booklet is also a good guide
the plot and saving the world from
for expats wanting to experience
Mexico-Chechen mayhem.
something new and different, but
not quite sure how to do it.
Celebrating Human Rights
Dec. 10 saw nationwide celebrations for International Human
Rights Day, an official holiday
in Cambodia. In Phnom Penh,
thousands marched through
the capital to Wat Phnom in an
event organised by human rights
organisations. Decked in matching T-shirts, participants gathered
in the park to listen to speeches
and watch various performances.
Christophe Peschoux, head of
UNOHCHR, also used the
occasion to address the rally. The
UN’s top rights official issued a
stark warning describing ongoing
land disputes and a crackdown
on dissent as “worrying trends”
in Cambodia. Celebrations
elsewhere in the country tended
to be more low key, with disputes
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BBAC for Charity
Quality Recognition
Champei Spa and Salon, one
of the Penh’s longest serving
spas in November received an
International Quality Crown
Award from the regulator
Business Initiative Directions.
At the awards even in London,
U.K., the award was given as
an acknowledgment of the spa’s
commitment to customer satisfaction, leadership, innovation,
and efficiency. Established a
few years ago, Champei continues to be popular, offering
services ranging from traditional massages to facials, at very
affordable prices.
Dance workshop
Things are on the go at Amrita
Performing Arts, which will in
January host a major exchange
programme entitled the Flying
Circus Project. with nearly
thirty distinguished artists from
around the world, fifteen of the
organisation’s local young dancers
will be exploring new concepts
of developing contemporary
dance. The project is produced
@BBAC for Charity
The British Business Association
in Nov. 11 organised a family
event to coincide with annual
Poppy Day celebrations, marking
the end of the First World War in
1918. Attended by British Ambassador Andrew Mace, the event
included delicacies by DanMeats,
Tiger beer from Cambodia Brewery, Coca-Cola courtesy of the
multinational company, as well
as face-painting for both old and
young. The event raised US$330
for the Earl Haig Fund, a charity
set up in 1921 assisting veterans
and former military servicemen.
The raised funds were matched
by the BBAC, bringing the total
donation to US$660. The association’s next even is the Speaker’s
Dinner at Raffles Hotel Le Royal
on Jan. 15, where Anees Ahmed,
senior prosecutor at the UNKRT,
will brief members on developments at the tribunal.
Cambofest
The third annual Cambofest
film festival successfully came to
a close in Kampot on Dec. 20,
despite rumours that the event
would not be held at all. Climax
of the event saw films screened
over two days at Kampot’s old
cinema The Royal. The Grabay
Meas, or Golden Buffalo, is the
festival’s Cambodian themed
proxy for the Oscar award. And
this years winners are “The Sky in
December” for Feature Fiction,
“Surprise!” for Short Fiction,
“Agent Orange: 30 Years Later” for
Feature Documentary, “Schritt fur
Schritt” for Short Documentary,
“Shadow of Darkness” for Local
Cambodian Showcase, “Mime vs.
Junkie” for Universal Language,
“Meltdown in Tibet” for Social
Issue Movie, “LoopLoop” for Very
Short Movie, there was a tie
for Animation with “INK” and
“Mosquito in Dreaming.”
Early submissions for next year’s
festival are already being accepted,
for more information, see www.
cambofest.blogspot.com
in the penh
Openings
t-bone, kfc, cali 2, studio 182
Business travel comfort
Business travellers to the Penh
got a new place to stay in
November when DP Lodge
opened its doors. Housed in a
spacious modern villa, the lodge
offers nicely decorated rooms,
each of unique design, starting
at US$38 per night including
breakfast. A business centre
supporting video conferencing
is also on hand, and special
packages for longer stays are
available upon enquiry.
The restaurant on the premises serves affordable Asian and
international cuisine, while
the in-house bakery keeps
guests supplied with freshly
baked bread and other goodies.
Also open to outsiders, the
lodge further features an outdoor bar area, as well as very
comfortable balcony for guests
to while away the evening sipping cocktails.
DP Lodge, 47 Street 322, Tel:
023 213 503, Café open 6.30am to
9.30pm, bar open 5pm to 9.30pm
Carnivores delight
If meat’s your thing, look no
further than newly opened
T-Bone Steak House. Serving a
premium selection of both imported and Cambodian beefs,
the establishment provides
high quality air-conditioned
dining for the modern day
carnivore. The biggest steak on
the menu weighs in at an impressive 900 grams. Should you
be up for the challenge, it will
be cooked to your specifications by well-trained chefs who
understand how important it is
to get it right. The menu also
offers alternative main courses
@DP Lodge
012009
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 15
in the penh
@T-Bones Steak House
including lamb, pork and
salmon, as well as a wide range
of side dishes and a mouth-watering desserts selection. Steak
prices start at US$8, cocktails
are US$3 and beer begins at
US$1.50. A respectable range
of wines and soft drinks are
also available.
T-Bone Steak House,
392 Monivong Boulevard,
Tel: 012 900 138, Open 12pm
to 2pm and 5pm to 11pm
Back in action
After a year and a half on hiatus,
California 2 bar, restaurant and
guesthouse reopened on new
premises in November. Open
24/7, the well-known establishment comes complete with a
good-sized pool table, tequila
shots for US$1.50 and WiFi.
The big round bar allows for
plenty of banter among punters,
while the flatscreen TVs show
American football and British
classics are played in the background. On the food side the
Fast food on riverside
California 2 offers Khmer foods
Kentucky Fried Chicken, the
and usual pub grub, including
only international fast food
fish & chips for US$4. Upstairs,
chain in the Kingdom, is
the newly refurbished and
quickly making its presence
tastefully decorated rooms start
increasingly known. The latest
KFC outlet recently opened on from US$25, up to US$35 for
a deluxe room. Accommodation
the northern end of riverside,
includes free breakfast and freefeaturing the usual menu of
flow coffee all day.
chicken in various fried forms
California 2, 79 Sisowath
for around US$2. The air-conditioned establishment is certain Quay, Tel: 077 503 144
to satisfy fans of the chain, as
Stylish Cotton
it looks exactly like all KFC outStreet 282 really is quickly belets and serves the same “finger
coming the new place to go. The
lickin’ good” fare prepared
according to Colonel Saunders’ latest addition to the increasingly
hip strip is Kabas Boutique, a
secret recipe. Home delivery
from the restaurant is also avail- cute yet sophisticated bar and
clothes shop/tailoring service.
able for orders over US$5.
Meaning cotton in Khmer, Kabas
KFC, Northern Sisowath
stocks stylish cotton tops, skirts
Quay, Tel: 023 992 002, Open
and dresses for women, shirts for
10am to 10pm
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16 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
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men, and cute baby clothes. Prices are very affordable, at around
US$20 per item. All clothes are
made on the premises, and there
is an in-house tailor at hand
should your size be unavailable or
should you like the garment in a
different fabric. The shop stocks
a range of fabrics, from earthcoloured plain cotton, through
striped fabric perfect for shirts,
to boldly patterned material for
dresses as well as silk. Serving
wine and cocktails, the bar is a relaxed space with outdoor seating
in the pretty garden. There is also
free WiFi. The serviced apartments above the shop start from
around US$550 per month.
Kabas Boutique and serviced
apartments, 18 Street 282, Tel:
016 331 117
Cool for the kids
There can be no more moaning
about kids having nothing to
do in the Penh with the recent
opening of Kidz Cool Children
& Family Village in Chroy
Changvar. Complete with a paddling pool, water slides, a 400m2
indoor playground, a mini tennis
club, a beauty princess parlour, as
well as holiday camps and other
events, this new establishment
is every kid’s dream. Parents are
set to like it too, as Kidz Cool
staff are professionally trained
emergency performers and sports
teachers, allowing for complete
peace of mind. Owner Eric also
says treats for parents, such as a
spa on the premises, are planned
for the future. Entry costs US$5
on weekdays and US$10 during
weekends, with annual memberships for US$300. Only children
pay, parents go for free. For more
information, visit www.kidzcoolcambodia.com. Kidz Cool welcomes kids between the ages of
18 months and 15 years. A boat
taxi shuttle for the establishment
departs every hour 11am - 5pm
from Sisowath Quay.
Kidz Cool Cambodia, 74 Tonle
Sap road, Chroy Changvar. Tel:
017 933 620, Open 9am to 6pm
New chic clubbing
Studio 182, a new top end
club, opened on Dec. 26 right
in time for the New Year’s Eve
celebrations. Run by the Thalias
group, the new party establishment located at Topaz restaurant
is a welcome addition to the
Phnom Penh clubbing scene,
playing vintage tunes from the
60s onwards, with a focus on
disco, funk, pop, salsa and soul.
Organisers also promise a range
of live bands at the venue, and
there are regular club nights,
such as World Art Lounge on
Thursdays and Saturday’s Night
F(or)ever, set to get your mojo
back. With a cosy roof terrace, as
well as a VIP section, Studio 182
is set to be the classiest new club
in town, with prices to match.
It also has some royal flair; once
a month, the club will host His
Majesty Prince Sirivudh’s Vintage
Grand Orchestra for a Sunday
Tea Dance Party.
Studio 182, 182 Norodom
Boulevard, Tel: 077 555 182,
Open Thursday to Sunday, from
8pm. www.studio-182.com
in the penh
Pick of the Month
malls, men, junk, footprints
Green hint:
Offset your Flights
You’ve undoubtedly raked some
CO2 emission during your
December holiday travels. To
keep your conscience green,
why not offset your flights?
UK-based Carbon Passport is
assured by the UK government
and provides offsets using only
UN approved Certified Emission Reductions (CERs). The
website allows you to calculate
the emissions of your flight, and
then suggests you do the good
deed and pay up. A return flight
to Bangkok will set you back
UK£1.98, at a rate of UK£18/
tonne. For more information,
visit www.carbonpassport.com
go:
City Mall
As though there aren’t enough shopping centres in the
city, City Mall opened its doors in September this year.
Housing a large and spacious branch of Lucky Supermarket, it also contains a number of fast-food outlets
and modern shops catering mainly to the Penh’s rising
middle class. Though the building itself rather encloses the
adjacent Vann Molyvann-designed sports complex, at least
now there’s somewhere to put the pounds back on after a
workout at the stadium. City Mall, Monireth Boulevard
(near Olympic Stadium).
Watch:
Mad Men
When men were handsome, women gorgeous, and every office came
stocked with at least two bottles of whisky. The life of Madison
Avenue ad men in the 1960s is portrayed as glamorous, exciting, and
verging on morally corrupt in the American hit series Mad Men. The
third season has just hit stores in the Penh. Get hooked.
Buy:
Funky Junk
Promote environmental awareness and support innovative social enterprise Funky Junk by buying some of
their products made from reclaimed plastic bags. The
colourful range includes everything from rubbish bins,
through floor cushions, to placemats, for reasonable
prices around US$15. The venture is a joint project
between Carpe Diem Travel and BABSEA. For more
information, visit www.funkyjunkrecycled.com
Join:
[cambodiaparentnetwork]
For the latest details on houses for rent, nannies
for hire, cars for sale and advice on everything
from where to buy marmite and favourite
guesthouses in Siem Reap. Though supposedly
for parents, the host of information sent around
on this network is useful even for those without
sprogs. To join visit http://groups.yahoo.com/
group/cambodiaparentnetwork
012009
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 17
calendar
calendar
Holidays
Arts & Events
Film
Music & Parties
Food & Drink
Sales
Sports
January
everything you’ve wanted to know about what’s going on in the Penh ...
@FCC
@Platinum Club
1 Friday
International New Years Day
Special New Year 2010 Menu
@ Riverhouse Bistro, All day
Bistro Romano Recovery
Brunch, US$48 including
unlimited champagne, 11am
to 3pm
Start 2010 Party @ Studio
182, including French breakfast at sunrise
College Bowl Games @ Gym
Bar. For times and to ensure
your game is available call
012 815 884 to confirm.
Texas Bowl:
Navy vs Missouri
Sun Bowl:
Stanford vs Oklahoma
Chick-Fill-A Bowl:
Virginia Tech vs Tennessee
2 Saturday
What the Bleep do we
Know? @ Meta House, 7pm
|
18 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
ISSUE37
Ladies Night @ Studio 182,
including French breakfast
at sunrise
College Bowl Games @ Gym
Bar. For times and to ensure
your game is available call
012 815 884 to confirm.
Capital One Bowl:
Penn State vs LSU
Rose Bowl:
Ohio State vs Oregon
Gator Bowl:
Florida State vs West Virginia
3 Sunday
The Rainbow Troops @ Meta
House, 7pm
College Bowl Games @ Gym
Bar. For times and to ensure
your game is available call
012 815 884 to confirm.
Autozone Liberty Bowl:
Arkansas vs East Carolina
Valero Alamo Bowl (LIVE):
Michigan State vs Texas Tech
5 Tuesday
9 Saturday
Behind the Burmese Bamboo Curtain @ Meta House,
7pm
‘How Do You Sound’ @ Meta
House, 7pm. New Khmer
Dance Performance.
6 Wednesday
JURAM @ FCC, 8pm
The Private Life of a Butcher:
Idi Amin’s Self-Portrait @
Meta House, 7pm
10 Sunday
“The Future of Science and
Human Development” by
Prof. David J. Ross,
2pm, University of Cambodia
7 Thursday
Victory over Genocide Day
Kampuchea – Death and
Rebirth @ Meta House, 7pm
8 Friday
Meta House 3rd Anniversary
Party! 6pm
JURAM @ CHOW, 8pm
No Country for Old Men @
Meta House, 7pm
12 Tuesday
Exhibition Opening – A
Good Friend is Hard to Find
@ Meta House, 6pm. An
intimate look at the works of
the late Ingrid Muan and the
late Svay Ken.
Talking Heads Trivia @ Talkin
to a Stranger, 7.30pm
13 Wednesday
Young and Restless in China
@ Meta House, 7pm
14 Thursday
19 Tuesday
Rise Up! @ Meta House, 7pm
Lost Children in Uganda @
Meta House, 7pm
15 Friday
Punk’s Not Dead – Degeneration Punk @ Meta House,
7pm
4th Anniversary Party @
Equinox, 8pm. Live music
and art. All night 1$ draft and
more surprises
Dj Jimmy Salsa @ Talkin to a
Stranger, 9pm
16 Saturday
Moving in to Feeling @ Meta
House, 7pm. New Khmer
Dance Performance.
MEKONG PIRATES @ FCC,
9pm
17 Sunday
Akira Kurosawa’s ‘Ran’ @
Meta House, 7pm
20 Wednesday
Sita Sings the Blues @ Meta
House, 7pm
“Why Global Markets Have
Failed to Reduce Inequality”
by Prof. Eric S.
Maskin, 2pm, University of
Cambodia
21 Thursday
Sonic Experiments from
Cambodia and Jamaica @
Meta House, 7pm
22 Friday
Meet the Messenger Band @
Meta House, 7pm
Artisans d’Angkor grand
opening in Phnom Penh in
front of the Post Office
@French Cultural Centre
012009
ISSUE37
| Asialife Phnom Penh 19
calendar
@Comme à la Maison
My Gay Life: Queer Worlds
in Cambodia and Taiwan @
Meta House, 7pm
31 Sunday
Australia @ Meta House,
7pm
Every Monday
@Cambodiana
27 Wednesday
23 Saturday
White King, Red Rubber &
Black Death @ Meta House,
7pm
BAD NEIGHBOURS @ FCC,
9pm
24 Sunday
The Incredible Breakdance
Phenomena: ‘Planet B-Boy’
@ Meta House, 7pm
26 Tuesday
Talking Heads Trivia @ Talkin
to a Stranger, 7.30pm
Oliver Stone Meets
George W. Bush @ Meta
House, 7pm
“Film-making and
Peace-building” by Oliver
Stone, 2pm, University
of Cambodia
28 Thursday
Exhibition Opening – Soe
Naing @ CCF, 7pm
Burmese painter, Soe Naing
Exhibition Opening – The
Soliloquy of a Deaf Mute
@ CCF, Cambodian Artist,
Chath Piersath
Monday Madness @ Talkin
to a Stranger. Beer and cocktail specials all night
NFL Gridiron @ Gym Bar
Open Mic Jam session
at Riverside Bistro from
8.30pm.
Stories of the Living and
the Dead @ Meta House,
7pm
Diva-licious Monday @ The
Riverhouse Lounge. Girl DJs
from radio 97.5 Love FM.
29 Friday
Every Tuesday
Green House Effect @
Meta House, 7pm. Lectures,
films and prizes.
Ladies Night @ Darlin Darlin
(Naga). First Drink is free.
All drinks half-off. Buy two
bottles get 1 free.
30 Saturday
NFL Gridiron @ Gym Bar
Grease Night @ FCC 7pm
Quiz Night at Gym Bar, 9pm.
+855.12.899.325 :: Phnom Penh, Cambodia, Earth
[email protected] :: www.keithakelly.com
Alan Kelly
KeitArth Direction
&
Graphic Design
Freelance without borders since 2005
|
20 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
ISSUE37
Night-Club
F
For
rese
reservation
rva
vati
t on
please call on
182
077
77 555 182
077
77 777 182
077 999 182
Norodom
Blvd
NEW PARTY SPIRIT
IN PHNOM PENH
@Riverhouse
Resident : D.J. Kim
Vintage
g Fun Music
Every Wednesday
Talkin Bubbles [email protected]
Talkin to a Stranger, 6pm
Aus Sparkling US$2.50,
Champagne US$7
Ladies Night @ Darlin Darlin
(Naga). First Drink is free.
All drinks half-off. Buy two
bottles get 1 free.
Girls Gone Wild Night @
The Riverhouse Lounge. All
cocktails (for ladies) Buy 1
Get 1 Free.
Section 5 (live music) @
Riverhouse Bistro,
8.30pm
Bollywood films @ Annam
Restaurant. 7pm.
Movies @ The Chinese
House. 7:15pm.
Every Thursday
Lamb Roast Thursdays @
Talkin to a Stranger 7pm.
Bookings essential.
Section 5 (live music)@ Riverhouse Bistro, 8.30pm
World Art Lounge @ Studio
182, 11pm
Soul, Disco, Funk, Salsa, Oldies but Goodies !
Glamour Party @ Darlin
Darlin (Naga) 9pm. A night of
Glamour and Beauty. Party
all night with celebrities and
Phnom Penh’s top models.
Every Friday
Melody Classic (live music) @
Riverhouse Bistro, 8.30pm
Thank God It’s Friday @
Studio 182, 11pm
Every Saturday
Melody Classic (live music) @
Riverhouse Bistro, 8.30pm
r
ou
y
t
Ge
o
Moj
!!
!
k
ac
b
High-Class
g
Service
VIP Lounge
Cosy Roof Te
T
Terrace
rrace
Secure Car Park
Saturday Night F(or)ever @
Studio 182, 11pm
Every Sunday
Melody Classic (live music) @
Riverhouse Bistro, 8.30pm
Live music and steak for
US$7.50 (kid’s half-price)
@ Steve’s Steakhouse,
6.30-9pm.
Op
Opens
att 8
8:00
00 p
p.m.
from THURSDAY to SUNDAY
www.studio-182.com
|
012009
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Asialife Phnom Penh 21
storyboard
storyboard
Phnom Penh Life: A One Man Show
Not everyone is prepared to leave a cushy life in the U.S. for the streets of Phnom Penh. For
Isaac Veth, however, returning to his homeland was a no-brainer almost from the moment he
left. Words by Nora Lindstrom.
Isaac Veth is no ordinary
guy. Born in Battambang, he
fled Cambodia in 1979 through
the refugee camps in Thailand.
Around seven years old, he and
his remaining family were settled
in the Projects of the Bronx, New
York. Together with his mother
and five siblings he later moved
to Reading, California.
Growing up on welfare in the
U.S. wasn’t easy. Isaac describes
how he and his brothers would
support the family by collecting
cans for recycling, or even diving
into dumpsters for discarded food.
“We’ve always been hard workers our family, we’ve never been
taught to beg or steal,” he says.
Despite the opportunities
living in America offered, Isaac
says he always wanted to return
to Cambodia. “In third grade I
wanted to come back to get rid of
the Khmer Rouge,” he says. “But
as education helped, I wanted to
come and educate Cambodia.”
A graduate of early childhood
education, Isaac first returned to
his homeland in 1998, settling
here on a permanent basis in 2003.
“I wanted to come and run
an orphanage because I thought
there were a lot of orphans in
here,” he explains. “But the more
I studied the issue, I realised these
kids are not orphans. Many have
families, but they’re stuck in an
orphanage because their parents
can’t afford them.” He soon abandoned the idea.
In an effort to improve his
Khmer and be closer to his
people, Isaac spent his first year
in Phnom Penh working as a
motodop and tuk tuk driver,
sleeping in front of the FCC.
“I felt joy being with the lowest of the low, sleeping where
they sleep, eating what they eat,
and taking showers where they
took showers,” he says. In the
U.S. too, Isaac had worked with
the down and out, spending
time with homeless people and
drug addicts.
“I want to bring pride and
honour back to Cambodia,”
|
22 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
ISSUE37
Isaac provides medical care to kids at the dump
he says. “After all, we are the
people of Angkor.”
Describing himself as a “freelance individual”, he performs
occasional translation work and
supports his family by teaching
English. He also helps out the
less fortunate, be it through
giving directions to a lost tuk
tuk driver or treating street
kids’ cuts and bruises.
“I fill in the gaps,” Isaac says.
“I’m not an NGO and will never
register as one, because I want to
prove to Cambodia that as Cambodians we can help ourselves.”
Highly critical of NGOs, Isaac
sees them as victimising the Cambodian people through handouts,
while lining the pockets of their
own staff. “The NGOs should
leave,” he says.
One of Isaac’s ongoing projects
is providing basic medical care
from a mobile clinic to communities living around the former
municipal dumpsite in Stung
Meanchey. He says some 300400 people still live in the area
despite the closure of the dump,
which effectively terminated their
source of income.
“Kids come to me with scabies
and abscess on their head,
pregnant women who haven’t
been seen by doctors... I make
sure everything is ok, give them
vitamins, tetanus shots,” he says.
“It’s about showing them that we
love them.”
Though not a trained doctor,
Isaac received basic medical training while in the U.S. army, and
has taken courses in medicine.
He also has friends in the medical
field who help him out in treating more difficult cases.
“I’m just there to pick up
what’s left over,” he says,
describing how he will go to
almost any lengths to help those
falling through the gaps, such as
HIV and Hepatitis C positive
individuals rejected by most
medical institutions.
A single father of three adopted children, Isaac is motivated by his love for Cambodia,
and his determination to change
what he sees as a mentality
among his countrymen “to do
anything for a buck”. For him,
money is not a goal.
“I don’t need to be a millionaire to feel like one,” he says. “I
just need to help someone that
day – it’s incomparable to any
money in the world.”
In a country filled with
NGOs, Isaac’s one-man approach may come across as unusual. He admits even his family,
all of whom remain in the U.S.,
is not entirely convinced. “But
I don’t think it’s crazy at all,” he
says. “Cambodia is home and I’ll
do anything to benefit Cambodian society.”
storyboard
Anyone for Tennis?
Time was when the Kingdom’s tennis playing elite was feared across the region. After
decades of neglect, is the sport set for a rally? Words by Zoe Daniel.
Training the next Federer?
The history of tennis
in Cambodia reads like a history
of the country. A powerhouse
in the region in the 1950s and
60s, it fell to pieces during the
years of the Khmer Rouge. Elite
athletes were seen as part of the
French influenced bourgeoisie.
They were either killed or hid
their talent. At least 37 top players died during those dire years,
the rest worked their racquet
hands to the bone in the fields
like everyone else. The sport is
only just recovering.
“It was very much an elitist
sport,” says Rithivit Tep head of
the Tennis Federation of Cambodia. “But today we focus on
the grass roots.”
Rebuilding tennis is a personal
mission for the federation’s secretary general, who is the son of
the late Tep Kunnah, Cambodia’s
most famous player ever. Even
the young Prince Sihanouk used
to watch the man they called “Mr
Tennis” play at the city’s exclusive
French country clubs. He played
at Davis Cup level and is now the
legend behind the Tep Kunnah
Cup – played annually in Phnom
Penh in his memory.
Rithivit Tep didn’t make it to
the top level as a player, so he
feels he owes it to his father to
contribute to the sport in a different way – getting kids involved.
When he returned to Cambodia
in the 1990s, he set about recruiting ball boys and teaching them
the game. They are now coaches
in their own right. After starting with five schools in the year
2000, the Federation now works
with 45 schools. It’s teaching ten
thousand Cambodian kids how to
play tennis with equipment largely
donated by the International Tennis Federation. Another twenty
thousand children are exposed to
the sport as spectators.
National coach Braen Aneiros
is from Panama. He has coached
players right across the international circuit including one
Wimbledon junior winner.
According to him, Cambodia
is well behind countries like
Thailand when it comes to the
number of young people playing tennis. It was Rithivit Tep’s
approach to that problem that
attracted Aneiros to coach here.
“I am completely committed
to this and I really like what he’s
trying to do for the country. I’m
Cambodian now,” he laughs.
Many of the current crop of
top players have learnt the game
in France, among them Nissan
Tan and Kenny Bun who were
both born there. While they still
do a lot of their training overseas,
they’re seeking sponsorship to
spend more time in Asia.
“I have my Mum here and everybody, all my family’s here,” Tan says.
He won a Bronze medal
at the 2007 Southeast Asian
Games, which pretty much put
Cambodian tennis back on the
map. No one took any notice of
Cambodian players before that,
Rithivit Tep says, but “today we
are contenders”.
Cambodians who have trained
internationally also have a sense
of confidence that comes from
competing overseas. Kenny Bun
has no sense of being the underdog. “I will let my weapons speak
on the court,” he says.
While success on the international circuit is a priority for the
federation, it’s building the profile
of the game locally that’s really
crucial to rebuilding its popularity.
Things have changed since
tennis was a game reserved for
the rich and famous, but the
lack of sporting facilities is still
a barrier to getting Cambodians playing. The International
Tennis Federation is considering starting a fund to help. For
now though, Rithi Tep and his
team of former ball boys tour
schools with balls, racquets and
ropes, which they tie across
playgrounds to make nets.
They just want to get children
playing. After that, it’s hoped
the next champion will emerge
with a passion for the game, and
for the message that success will
send to the world.
“These kids are hungry, they
have a cause” Rithivit Tep says.
“When one plays not for the
money, but for the cause, to
put the country on the map
you have a different feeling
when you play.”
012009
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 23
storyboard
Streetsmart: On the Waterfront II
When we last saw our intrepid streetwalker, she was snoozing outside La Croisette attempting
to traverse the riverside and tell its tale. See how the story ends for Kate Liana.
Le Quay – an oasis on the riverfront
If you tire of peoplewatching outside La Croisette,
the interior decor is an eclectic
mix. A French-Moroccan theme
with beaded curtains is offset by
Lichtenstein prints and a homage
to Hunter S. Thompson. Excellent food, occasional live music
and free WiFi keep patrons happy.
The next few spots follow a
similar formula of rattan chair +
happy hour + non-frightening food
that attracts both tourists and the
vendors who love them. On the
Café Fish – NYC meets Cape Cod
|
24 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
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Corner has cheese and beef fondue, and a very happy hour that
runs until 9pm. Kandal House
offers paintings by a local Khmer
artist and Veiyo’s sign announces it
is Cambodian-owned for the benefit of Cambodian children – same
same, but with a conscience.
Next door is a coffin shop.
Beautifully crafted, dragons and
griffins are popular designs for your
final vessel. You can choose carved
or painted, though if your friends
catch you perusing the stock don’t
be surprised if they ask for any
money they have lent you. If you
think you’ll live through the night,
there are DVDs galore next door at
US$1.50 a pop to keep you entertained. If you’re hovering between
life and death, rejuvenate at U &
Me Spa with a 15 percent discount
on packages and select massages,
facials and body treatments.
Moving along, it’s Cadillac Bar,
just rolling on the river as the sign
declares. It’s built a loyal following
with excellent gumbo, ribs, red
Chill – icy and sweet
beans and rice, and Texas chilli.
Throw in great staff, music, laidback atmosphere, and free internet
for customers, this is a home away
from home for many Americans.
Keep rolling along to Chill
for something new on the sweet
front. Serving some of the finest
homemade ice cream in town, it
offers daily sundae specials that
combine unique flavours. Now
ice cream cakes are also on offer.
At US$12.50 each, these flowershaped beauties are custom made
– order two days ahead – and feed
six to eight people, or 10 kids, so
keep in mind for birthdays.
Right next door, El Mundo
offers an upstairs lounge that
can be rented for groups for film
screenings. The menu has a wide
variety of western dishes, along
with Thai, Vietnamese, Khmer or
Chinese dishes, including excellent homemade desserts such as
apple crumble and almond muffins. Friendly, knowledgeable staff
round off the experience.
Paragon Hotel next door offers
small, basic rooms for US$17-38,
depending on size and whether
with or without windows. Cheap
and cheerful, the rooms are clean
and nicer than some other budget
options on the river.
Hop along to Perfume City.
The gang’s all here – Burberry,
Givenchy, YSL, and Anna Sui to
name a few. Whether it’s the real
storyboard
Fragrances abound at Perfume City
deal is questionable. Don’t bother
asking staff the prices, since
they’ll tell you every bottle is “100
dollars”. A glance with your own
eyes will reveal Versace’s signature
scent at US$76 for 75ml, and
Moschino’s younger, casual line at
US$57 for 50ml. Men can brag
they own a Ferrari, at just US$46
for 75ml of the manly scent.
Kiwi Bakery has a long menu
offering all kinds of food and
drink, western and Asian, along
with homemade baked goods,
including pies and croissants.
Free internet and wine by Celliers
D’Asie are an unexpected bonus.
Head down the block to
Mekong River Restaurant and
sit down to breakfast, a steal at
11,000 riel. They show documentaries on Cambodia up to five
times a day, and offer a pleasant
spot to catch up on international
and local papers, and watch the
world wander by.
Newcomer Jazz Rock Café
does not yet offer live music but
hopes to soon. In the meantime
they show all kinds of sport and
live concerts on their huge TV.
Come between 5pm and 8pm
for US$1 Anchor.
Funky Frog and Shamrock
offers US$8 rooms, cheap pub
grub, western, Thai, and Khmer
food, pizza, meat pies and daily
specials. Employing local artisans
Khmer Silk offers a pretty, eclectic
range of silk and woven bags by
KNN Cambodia Arts & Crafts.
Reasonably priced men’s ties,
purses, wallets, ornaments, scarves
and pillows are available as well.
Cashew, shortbread, macaroon
and biscotti-style cookies are all
on offer at Camory Cookies for
around US$1 for three. With free
samples of most of the products
available simply chomp away. The
large, specially decorated cookies
run at US$2, while gift baskets
range from US$35-80. The higher
priced ones include wine, honey,
tea and chocolate as well.
If booty shaking ever becomes
an Olympic sport, you can
find some eager contenders at
Riverhouse Lounge. The Penh’s
prodigious party promoters bring
in international DJs, and put on
special theme-nights weekly, so
check out the schedule.
Step into a little oasis upon
entering Le Quay. The downstairs
restaurant features wooden floors,
birch trees, a mini-pond with
fountain and plants for a truly
calming, transporting experience.
The fresh sushi and wine from
Quarto Products are discounted
during the L’after work promotion – 5pm-8pm Monday-Friday.
Knock back some Deveaux
Champagne at US$60 a bottle
and imagine you’re the Sugar
Plum Fairy from The Nutcracker
Suite – just don’t get carried away
and try your moves on the marble
bar. Float upstairs to Amara, and
the fantasy continues. With tile
floors, wood and leather massage
beds, and low lighting, the elegant
spa uses Comfort Zone products
from Italy, and sells Sukhita products from Thailand downstairs.
The roof has a jacuzzi, sauna and
steam room, along with a rooftop
available to rent for parties.
You’ve made it. Cross the finish line and sink into Café Fish.
Stylish and attractive, the decor
is New York City chic with a
dash of Cape Cod. Nibble the
spicy crisps while you scan the
menu for ocean-y delights.
Lunch and dinner can be caught
here. Along with the good wine
selection, and friendly, attentive staff, this is why Fish is fast
becoming one of the Penh’s
favourite catches.
012009
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Phnom Penh’s music scene is back from the dead. A weekend in late November
saw no less than eight gigs in the capital, three by internationally known acts.
Compare that to a year before, when the biggest thing to hit the country was
still considered to be Ronan Keating in 2007, and gigs by struggling local bands
were few and far between. Now both musicians and their audiences speak of
surge in live music, but is the scene here to stay? Words by Nora Lindstrom.
Phnom Penh attracts
all sorts, yet surprisingly few
musicians seem to find their
way to the city. Recently, that’s
started to change.
“There’s this huge music
scene now, there’s like 12
people – it’s amazing,” says the
Penh’s very own punk-rocker
girl Melanie Brew. While she
doesn’t give much credit to the
quality of the music played, she
says it’s stimulating to have
so many musicians around.
“There are no breakthrough
bands here or anything, but
everyone is having fun, and
that’s what it’s all about.”
Scott Bywater is one of the
mavericks of the emerging
scene. He currently plays in at
least four different ensembles,
and has further established a
blog, Following the Applause,
where he hopes to document
the ongoings in the capital’s
world of music. “There is an
increased demand for local
bands,” Scott says, adding
that he is now also toying with
the idea of starting a band
making original music.
The increase in demand
is partly due to more venues
looking for live acts. The
Cavern on street 104 was for
some time this year a hub for
up and coming bands and
other musical antics, including
the Abbey Road event, which
saw a dozen or so expat musicians join forces in a tribute
to The Beatles.
Established venues such as
Talkin’ to a Stranger, Sharky’s,
Memphis, and the FCC also
continue to feed music lovers,
while the one-year-old Chinese
House has proved itself a key
player in the budding scene,
most notably by hosting Chinese punk band Rebuilding the
Rights of Statues in June last
year to wide acclaim.
012010
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 27
coverstory
The Hellhounds playing with the Geckos of Love @ Talkin
Bad bucks
Finding the dosh to keep the scene going is
however a problem for both venues and musicians. “If you want to do it for the money,
forget it,” says Jimmy Baeck, of local band The
Hellhounds. He, like the members of most
Phnom Penh-based acts, has a “real” day job
and plays music on the side.
With three gigs over one weekend, newcomers The Fumes knows being cheap pays.
“We’re free and we’ll do almost anything,”
says lead guitar player Soula Walters, half in
jest. The five-member band, which started out
from the ISPP where some of its members
work, says playing is about releasing teenage frustrations and having fun, not making
money. “I was starved for music so had to do
it myself,” says singer Karen Schelzig Bloom.
According to Derek Mayes of Talkin’
to a Stranger, payments for gigs generally vary based on how well-known the
band is, and how many players it has.
“We usually pay a few hundreds for local
bands,” he says, adding that it’s financially
unviable to pay more given that gigs are
generally free of charge. Though Talkin’
occasionally hosts foreign musicians, these
are often friends of the owners. “Getting
bands in from Vietnam tends to be expensive,” Derek says.
Memphis Pub owner Bona Thiem
argues along similar lines. Since he opened
Memphis some five and a half years ago,
the establishment has been the Penh’s
go-to place for regular live music. Bona is
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28 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
ISSUE37
the mainstay of the in-house band, which
plays blues and rock covers every night bar
Sundays. “We enjoy, we play, we survive,”
he says. Though he has a few international
acts lined up for this year, Bona considers
getting foreign bands in a financial gamble.
Charging entry is not on the table. “We
don’t want to get into that yet,” wife Melanie chips in.
Foreign winds
Some bigger establishments are however
looking for talent across the border and beyond. The FCC Group recently hosted New
York band Ratatat as well as Aussie indie
group I Heart Hiroshima. Both gigs were
organised through links with the company’s
establishments in Saigon, where the two
bands also played.
Live acts in the Penh
Dimple – Nepali singer-songwriter plays mellow, acoustic world music
The Hellhounds - Purposefully limited repertoire of Americana and old school blues
The Panthers - Another of Scott and Dan’s outfits, focusing on standards and ballads
Lazy Jazz Drunks - Six-piece expat band playing rock n roll, indie, blues and
punk covers
Mekong Pirates - Twelve-member band performs funky original tunes in French
and Khmer
Riverside Rhythms – Experienced Filipino band plays well-known covers
Stiff Little Punks - The Penh’s first punk band, complete with proper attitude
The Fumes - New female-fronted expat band plays alternative rock, indie and punk
Bum N’Draze - Unclassifiable hard-rock led by Finnish duo
Memphis Band - Plays blues and rock covers nightly. Occasional jam sessions
Melanie Brew - No more of Betty & the GT Falcons, she does occasional solo gigs
Phil & Ritchy - Swing, soul, acoustic, jazz and pop by French duo
D’Sco: The Geckos of Love - Bluesy rock and pop by yet another of Scott and
Dan’s ensembles
coverstory
I Heart Phnom Penh
Craig Derbyshire of Saigon Sound System/
Nine Dragons in Ho Chi Minh City accompanied the acts to Phnom Penh. According
to him, the music scene across the border is
quickly changing and becoming more established, as venues suitable for hosting bigger
acts are cropping up. Craig himself is involved
in The Hi-Fi, a 1000-person capacity venue
set to attract internationally renowned bands.
Like the FCC during the Ratatat and I
Heart Hiroshima gigs, The Hi-Fi charges
entry. Craig acknowledges the cover charge
puts some people off. “But as long as we
keep the standards up and deliver, people
are going to understand that it’s worth it,”
he says. “You can’t sustain an international
act on bar takes alone.”
Still, if the cover charge for two gigs is a
lowly US$5 with complimentary drinks like
at the FCC, intakes are likely to remain low in
the near future. International bands consequently need to be attracted to play in the
Penh with more than money. “At the moment,
we’re selling the adventure of coming here,
but that can only sustain itself for x amount
of time,” Craig notes. He adds that flexibility,
meaning having venues able to put on shows
at very short notice, is also key. “Predominantly, we’re jumping on guys who are in the
area already,” he says.
The Venues
The Tree - Small shophouse bar with occasional gigs
The Cavern - Not quite its namesake in Liverpool, occasional gigs
Talkin’ to a Stranger - Regular Sunday sessions and other gigs
The FCC - Usually hosts large international acts
Memphis Pub - Regular in-house band every night
Huxley’s - British pub with occasional live music
The Winking Frog - Has Filipino band that plays on weekends
Chinese House - Regularly hosts both mellow acoustic sessions and larger gigs
Riverside Bistro – Live music by Filipino bands nightly, Monday open jam sessions from 8pm
Sharky’s - Many musicians’ favourite venue, regular rock gigs
Rory’s Pub - Small Irish pub with occasional live music
Velkommen Inn – Relaxed Norwegian shophouse bar with occasional live music
For Susie, Matt, and Cameron of I Heart
Hiroshima, playing in Phnom Penh was partly
about being on holiday, and partly about doing something they’d never done before. “We
were told when coming here that there were
guys with AK-47s on the streets,” Susie says.
“But we haven’t had any run-ins with the militia yet,” she adds, almost with a hint of regret.
More equals better?
Though everyone seems to welcome the arrival
of foreign acts, many doubt the sustainability
of bringing them in, citing lack of paying
audience as well as suitable venues.
Mat, Chris and David of local act Mispent
Yooth argue you can’t expect Phnom Penhers
who spend their time hunting for 75 cent
beer to pay even a few bucks for live music.
“People might pay a dollar,” David concedes,
but notes that most audiences seem to attend
gigs less for the music and more for “background noise”.
That may have something to do be with the
quality of the music. “There is a lack of competent musicians,” Chris argues. Mat agrees.
“The number of bands is up, but the quality
remains the same,” he says.
All three would however like to see the
scene develop. Mat suggests making NGOs
foot the bill. “I think music should form a
part of development aid,” he says. Punk gigs
sponsored by USAID doesn’t sound very rock
‘n’ roll though.
The capital’s only full-time expat musicians
Philippe Javelle and Richard Boisson of Phil
& Ritchy however claim it is possible to make
a living off music in Phnom Penh, provided
you don’t aim too high. Previously profes012010
ISSUE37
| Asialife Phnom Penh 29
coverstory
The biggest band in town play the Chinese House
of his regular clientele is made up of foreignenough. It is essential to get locals to not
just to play music, but to get excited about
ers. Danny, bassist in the establishment’s
concerts too. Alas, that’s not easy.
in-house band, further argues Cambodian
musicians show little interest in playing to
Before their gig in Phnom Penh, Susie from
wider audiences. “Khmer bands play comI Heart Hiroshima describes her surprise at
mercial pop. There is a limited supply of musi- how many people refused to pay the entrance
cians interested in playing more international fee for their concert in Saigon. “Even though it
music,” he says.
was only 2000 dong or something!” she says.
Andy Stanke of Riverside Bistro agrees,
Craig says the scene in both Vietnam and
also noting Khmer bands often seem to have
Cambodia has to be developed one step at a
inflated opinions of how much they can
time. “We’re not making a fortune off it, it’s
charge. Andy has two Filipino bands who
really just about trying to get something going
play nightly at his establishment. Recently he in the area,” he says.
launched Monday night jam sessions, where
anyone can come and play with the in-house
LAMstock
band using professional equipment.
Somewhat surprisingly, one of the people
Not that the expat music scene is entirely
getting things going in Phnom Penh is
devoid of domestic talent. One to watch is
17-year old Pieter Lam, a student at ISPP.
Khmer singer Srey Thy, who has been spotted Faced with a school project, he was inspired
around town fronting bands playing 60s style by a music festival broadcast on MTV, and
Cambodian music. She is also involved in the decided on organising a similar event for his
Cambodia Space Project, the brain child of
Khmer audience
assignment. Thus LAMstock was born, the
travelling musician Julien Poulson, currently
Finnish hard-rock band Bum N’Draze is one
name inspired by Waynestock in the teenin Cambodia.
of few long-term expat bands. Established in
film Wayne’s World.
Based on his experience in Saigon, Craig
January 2003, it’s still going strong. “Rock and
Held in early December, the event atroll was going down and we’re here for the res- argues that in order to develop the mutracted both young and old musicians, as well
cue!” exclaims the band’s drummer Jouni Ant- sic scene, relying on the expat buck is not
as friends of the bands. “The promotion for
tonen, aka Twilight Dzouns. On tours with
names such as “Unplugged Funeral”, “Year of
Blogs
the Cock”, and “Siberia Teaches”, the band
Following the Applause
has gigged through Cambodia from Takeo to
phnompenhgigs.blogspot.com
Rattanakiri, and also performed in Thailand,
Insights into the emerging scene by Scott Bywater
Burma and Indonesia. “For this rock and roll
thing, if we play to purely Khmer or western
Leng Pleng
audiences, I think the Khmer audiences are
lengpleng.blogspot.com
more enthusiastic,” Jouni says.
News on upcoming gigs and a place for the Penh’s musicians to share experiences
While Finnish hard-rock may strike a chord
among Khmers, Bona at Memphis says most
sional musicians in France, a combination of
frustration with how artists are treated in their
home country and falling in love with Cambodia brought them here. “But mostly we’re
both 42 and now is the time in our artistic
lives that we want to breathe – settle down a
bit and write our own music,” Phil says.
The two first arrived a year ago, on what
they thought would be a two-week holiday,
but which turned into them playing 12 gigs.
Demand has not dissipated. “We had to stop
playing after a while, because we didn’t want
people to get bored of us,” Phil says.
He suggests that the transience of life in
Phnom Penh might be what is keeping other
musicians from being more serious about their
art. “Here when you’re an expat, I think most
people just enjoy life and are not building
something real because they think they won’t
stay,” he speculates.
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30 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
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coverstory
The Fumes taking their music seriously
the event was a bit late, but getting the bands
and the venue was easy,” Pieter says. “I have a
very good supervisor who knew lots of bands
so we called everyone up and asked if they
wanted to play.” Many said yes, with the final
playbill of the day-long event at Gasolina
including around a dozen acts, among them
The Fumes, Bum N’Draze, as well as Pieter’s
own student band Jebus.
Punk revivalists the Stiff Little Punks also
made an appearance, with singer Ian Anderson turning up in a ripped shirt seemingly
straight from their previous night’s gig at The
Tree. “Phnom Penh is a hotbed of enthusiasm
and rock and roll,” he exclaimed, “The spirit
of rock and roll is still alive!”
Though Phnom Penh is still far off from
hosting real music festivals like in HCMC,
and the child-friendly festival was somewhat at odds with Ian’s hyperbolic attitude,
LAMstock was certainly a step in the right
direction. Darren Jahn of The Fumes says he
would like to see more similar events, with a
few local bands headlining. “It would be great
to get three or four bands together for a gig,
maybe at the Parkway studio where they had
that Elsewhere party,” he says.
It’s too early to tell what 2010 will
bring music-wise, but things are certainly
looking up. Though Melanie Brew may
still be some way off establishing her
dream all-girl band Squishy, there are at
least a dozen acts livening up the bar scene
in the capital – a state of affairs that seems
to keep everyone groovy.
Too old to rock? - Lazy Jazz Drunks @ Huxleys
012010
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 31
coverstory
Up Close with Ratatat
Guitarist Mike Stroud and Synthesiser player Evan Mast, made the FCC’s ageing timbers come
to life in December. Playing to a packed crowd, the gig was widely claimed to be the best the
Penh had seen since Dengue Fever struck town. AsiaLIFE’s Kate Liana asked the duo that is
Ratatat what the experience was like.
AL: How did you guys meet?
We met at Skidmore College (upstate New
York), and started playing music together.
Then after school when we were living in
New York we kept playing together, and
started building our sound.
AL: What was your music like then?
It was a lot funnier. We used to play a lot of
fantasy music. We recorded a lot before we
ever played live.
great to see other cultures and very exciting,
but we’re pretty focused on the music, so we
don’t get to explore as much as we’d like to.
Our schedule is tight, so we don’t see much of
the place, but it’s still really interesting.
AL: What’s been your favourite tour so far?
We had a great tour in Asia before, through
China and Hong Kong. We played an amaz-
AL: What do you think of Cambodia /
Phnom Penh?
It’s great, it’s an amazing country. Everyone’s
really friendly. We were in Siem Reap yesterday, it was incredible. We took the boat down
here, so we saw some of the countryside, but
we haven’t seen as much as we’d have liked.
We’ve hardly seen much of Phnom Penh but
we’d love to come back, it looks great.
AL: What have the shows here and in
Saigon been like?
The festival in Saigon was great, but we
hadn’t played in a while so it was good to
jump back in. The show here was really fun,
the crowd was great. It’s so different from
anything we’ve seen, it’s just a really interesting place to be. It’s hard because we couldn’t
communicate well with the sound guys, and
it was also hard to hear ourselves onstage.
But otherwise we really enjoyed this gig.
AL: What did you think of the crowd?
It was great to see a lot of Cambodians here.
There were more locals than in Saigon.
People were dancing onstage, which we love,
but the stage is the same height as the balcony railing, we were afraid someone would
fall onto the street. Luckily they got off after
a few minutes.
AL: How did you end up coming to
Phnom Penh?
We have a manager in Australia who books
all of our shows in Asia and the region.
We had played Asia before, and when we
were booked for this festival in Saigon
(LoretoFest) we knew we’d already be in the
area. Our manager knew someone at the
FCC group, and convinced us to play here
and a few more gigs in Saigon at Pacharan.
AL: Do you like touring?
In general, yes. We’ve been on the road about
six months of this year. When we travel it’s
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32 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
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Ratatat playing it cool @ the Mansion
ing gig in Buenos Aires, it was fascinating to
see the different night life scene there.
AL: Where will you go after this?
This is the last stop on the tour, then it’s back
to NYC. We’ll do some recording, hopefully,
take a little time off.
AL: What would be your ultimate fantasy gig?
I don’t know, maybe playing Machu Picchu?
That’d be pretty awesome.
coverstory
It was great to see a lot
of Cambodians here.
There were more locals
than in Saigon.
012009
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 33
food corner
food corner
Food Talk: Intercontinental Blacksmith
From the English countryside to the world’s most populated country, Paul Wood has always
been up for a challenge. Kate Liana meets the Intercontinental new executive chef.
How did any of us end
up in Cambodia? Whether
escaping a stolid, stodgy life at
home, or by chance accident,
everyone’s story is in turns unique
and typical. In the case of Paul
Wood, the new executive chef at
the Intercontinental Hotel, it was
a desire for new experiences and a
passion for food and travel.
He comes to Phnom Penh
from China, where for the last
12 years he’s run operations at
luxury hotels in various provinces, intermeshed with stints in
Thailand and Indonesia. Taking
on a behemoth like the Intercontinental is no easy task. Home to
The Deli, Regency Cafe, Lobby
Bar and Xiang Palace, he has his
work cut out for him.
In his school days, Paul had
hoped to become a blacksmith.
The Suffolk-born chef had a
lifelong love of metal and ironwork, but was unable to find an
apprenticeship. After six months
of searching, his father queried
whether he had ever considered
becoming a chef and noted
the similarities. You work with
your hands, it’s regimented but
creative, and like a foundry, a
kitchen is hot as hell.
“Of course, if I had become a
blacksmith I’d be filthy rich now,”
Paul laughs, since what was a dying art 40 years ago has made a resurgence and is now big business.
But he has no regrets, and has
found his home in the kitchen.
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34 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
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Paul Wood feeling at home at the InterCon
At 15, after landing an apprenticeship at the Cumberland Hotel, he attended culinary school
where he trained in the classical
French style under Escoffier’s former students. True to his father’s
description, the kitchen was hot
and tough. Now he admits that
times have changed and kitchens
are not quite the rigid, militaristic hierarchy they had been.
However, the old-school chef has
a strict set of goals he plans to
implement with the staff and a
bold plan for the Intercontinental’s future.
“This is a five-star hotel, and
the food needs to be at that level,”
he says. To that end, he intends
to get in the kitchen and start
with the basics. His first job is to
train staff in the latest methods
of kitchen preparation, cooking
technique, service, hygiene and
grooming. “I was in the kitchen
this morning at 4am, showing the
bakery how to do breakfast,” he
says by way of example.
So far the staff has been eager
for the opportunity to learn. His
larger goal, though, is to bring
passion back into the food. He
believes that to understand the
food, you must understand the
culture. He’s made a few forays
to local markets and restaurants,
and was pleased to see all the
fresh produce and herbs and
natural ingredients used in local
cooking. He will strive to maintain the authenticity of the food
they make, but also to implement standards of consistency,
as an essential part of producing
food at this level and scale.
Wanting to make the Intercontinental known for fine dining, he
is eager to overhaul many aspects
of the current food service. The
Sunday Champagne brunch is set
for a makeover, and will feature
more fresh, inventive offerings.
Drawn to Southeast Asia for
the chance to experience a different culture and learn something
new, he’s excited to be here.
Whether he’ll pursue his other
passions of riding motorcycles,
sailing, or clay shooting,
he’s firmly entrenched in the
kitchen for now.
“I have work to do here,” he
says. “I won’t come up for air for
quite some time.” Considering
his long history as a chef in Europe and Asia, Paul was initially
reticent to describe some of the
crazier things he’s witnessed.
“I’ve seen every kind of accident
you can imagine,” he finally
admits. “I saw an entire kitchen
blow up once.” Sounds like he’s
ready for Cambodia.
key to symbols
01
Under $3
per average dish
02
$3 – $6
per average dish
Free home delivery available
03
$6 – $10
per average dish
Free wireless Internet service
04
$10+
per average dish
ChildSafe
A/C
Air Conditioning
®
A network protecting children from all forms of abuse.
www.childsafe-cambodia.org.
cambodian
Boat Noodle
8B Street 294, Tel: 012 774 287
Khmer and Thai restaurant with excellent, well-priced food, set in a beautiful,
traditional wooden house. Open 4pm to
10pm. 01
Frizz
67 Street 240, Tel: 012 524 801
Dutch-run, restaurant specialising in authentic Khmer cuisine. Serves very good
amok. It has cookery classes too. Open
10am to 11pm. 02
Green Pepper
6F Sotheros Blvd,
Tel: 017 417 776
Serving Khmer and Thai food in an cosy
setting near the riverfront. Open from
10am to 2pm – 4pm to 10pm 02
K’NYAY
25K Suramarit Blvd. (Street 268),
Tel: 023 225 225 or 092 665 225,
www.knyay.com, [email protected]
Modern Khmer restaurant that is tucked away
down an alley off of Sihanouk Blvd. The menu
includes a selection of freshly prepared, vegan
dishes, along with more traditional Cambodian
specialities. Also offers a selection of cakes,
ice creams and sorbets, using all vegan ingredients. Monday–Friday 12pm-9pm, Saturday
7am-9pm, closed Sundays. 02
Malis
136 Norodom Bvd., Tel: 023 221 022
www.malisrestaurant.com
Beautiful modern Khmer restaurant with a
courtyard set around narrow water channels
and decorated with terracotta floor tiles. Inside
there are four aircon rooms if the mid-day sun
gets too much. The cuisine is modern Khmer,
with no MSG, and is served elegantly in hollowed out palm tree bark. 04 A/C
in crispy Beijing duck. Stays open until late
in the morning. Open 12pm to late. 02
Magnolia
55 Street 51, Tel: 016 944 493
Well-priced Khmer restaurant conveniently
located on Street 51, has an extensive
menu serving breakfast and buffet lunch
(from 11am to 2pm). Fish, squid, eel, frog,
chicken, beef, and pork dishes all have
their own page on the menu. Cocktails are
surprisingly good and WiFi is complimentary
though slow. Open 6.30am-10pm. 02
Sam Doo
56-58 Kampuchea Krom (Street 128),
Tel: 023 218 773
The place for dim sum in Phnom Penh,
baskets of steamed prawn dumplings, pork
buns and more go for a mere US$1.20.
In addition wonton soup and other tasty
meals are a steal. Open 7am to 2am. 01
Pon Loc
319 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 212 025
Large, multi-storied restaurant serving
Khmer food on the riverfront. Always
seems to be filled out with locals and
tourists alike. Open 10am to 12am. 02
Romdeng
74 Street 174, Tel: 092 219 565
Recently moved to new location on Street
174 and run by the same NGO as Friends,
this non-profit training school restaurant
specialises in Khmer cuisine. Food has an
appropriately fresh and daring flavour, especially if you opt for the crispy tarantulas
as a starter. Good place to try fermented
fish prahok. Open 11am to 9pm. 02
chinese
Hua Nam
753 Monivong Bvd., Tel: 023 364 005
Large Chinese restaurant that specialises
in seafood and duck. Has a good selection of wines. Has VIP rooms. Open 11am
to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. 03 A/C
Man Han Lou Restaurant
456 Monivong Blvd., Tel: 023 721 966
Cambodia’s only micro-brewery with four
types of German-style beer. Has extensive
Chinese, Thai, Khmer and Vietnamese
menus, as well as dim sum breakfasts
from 6am to 10am. New menu introduced
in May. 03 A/C
Mekong Village
290 Monivong Bvd., Tel: 023 218 888
Large Chinese restaurant that specialises
Xiang Palace
Intercontinental Hotel, 296 Mao Tse
Tung, Tel: 023 424 885
Upmarket restaurant with possibly the
best range of Cantonese cuisine in
town, served in opulent surroundings.
Open 11.30am to 2.30pm (Sunday
from 9.30pm), 5.30pm to 10.30pm.
04 A/C
Yi Sang Chinese Restaurant
128F Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 220 822
www.almondhotel.com.kh
Restaurant specialising in Cantonese food
and dim sum that fuses the traditional with the
contemporary, set on the ground floor of the
Almond Hotel. Serves some of the best dim
sum in town. Open from 6.30am to 10am,
11.30am to 2pm and 5.30pm to 10pm – dim
sum not served in the evening. 03 A/C
french
Atmosphere
141C Norodom Bvd., Tel: 023 994 224
Well-established aircon restaurant serves
fine French food in an elegant yet tastefully decorated setting. Close to Independence Monument. Open from 11am
to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed
Sundays. 03 A/C
Bougainvillier
277C Sisowath Quay,
Tel: 023 220 528
Elegant, riverfront French restaurant using
gourmet homemade ingredients, specialising in foie gras. Fish, beef, gourmet pasta
dishes and langoustine also feature, plus
a regularly changing specials board and
excellent French wines. Three course set
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food corner
restaurant guide
food corner
lunches are also available. Open from 6am
to 11pm. Also has rooms upatairs. 03 A/C
Comme à la Maison
13 Street 57, Tel: 012 951 869
Decidedly sophisticated French restaurant
with a beautiful outdoor terrace area at
the front, yet secluded from the street.
One of the best French kitchens in town,
shown by its popularity both at lunch time
and at night. Small delicatessen at the
back of the restaurant. Open from 6am to
10.30pm. 03
Equinox
3A Street 278,
Tel: 012 586 139 or 092 791 958
Cool French-run hang-out on with new
menu including breakfast. Upstairs bar has
a nice open balcony, good cocktails and
music. Downstairs is the best foosball table
in town. Also has a second street-level bar
and terrace restaurant with regular art exhibitions. Popular place for WiFi. Open 7am
to late, Serves food from 7am to midnight
and delivers from 8am to 10pm. 02
La Croisette
241 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 220 554
Riverfront restaurant with an ample
outside dining area screened off by trees.
Good, reasonably-priced, French cuisine
with excellent barbecues, as well as
Asian and Khmer food. Newly redecorated with more indoor air-con space.
Open 7am to late. 02 A/C
La Marmite
Cnr. Streets 108 & 51,
Tel: 012 391 746
This small, reasonably priced French bistro
has two adjoining rooms, one non-smoking. Relaxed, cosy atmosphere. Serves
excellent fish, steaks and offal as well as
daily specials, but no Marmite! Open 11am
to 2.30pm & 6pm to 10.30pm. 02 A/C
La Residence Restaurant
22/24 Street 214,
Tel: 023 224 582
Fine dining on an international scale
in this sophisticated restaurant, where
French classics meet gourmet, modern
cuisine. Open from 11.30am to 2pm &
6.30pm to 10.30pm. 04 A/C
Le Jardin
16 Street 360,
Tel: 011 723 399
Beautiful shaded restaurant with large
garden and spacious outdoor play area
for kids. Serves excellent ice cream. Open
7am to 6pm. 02
Tamarind
31 Street 240, Tel: 012 830 139
Bold Mediterranean / North African
restaurant set on three floors which
serves couscous, tagines, chawarma,
tapas and mezze. Small bar with pool
table downstairs denies the elegance
upstairs, especially the roof terrace,
which opens after sunset. Open 10am
to 12pm. 03 A/C
The Wine Restaurant
219 Street 19,Tel: 023 223 527
Excellent fine dining restaurant in the
same grounds as Open Wine. The fresh
food and extensive selection of wines
make this one of the more exclusive
places to dine in town. 04 A/C
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ISSUE37
Topaz
182 Norodom Bvd.
Tel: 012 333 276 / 023 221 622
Sophisticated, aircon restaurant with outside dining, upstairs bar, wine shop, cigar
room and private rooms. One of Phnom
Penh’s finest restaurants. Open 11am to
2pm and 6pm to 11pm. 04 A/C
Van’s Restaurant
5 Street 102, Tel: 023 722 067
French fine-dining in a grand setting awaits
at Van’s, located on the second floor of a well
preserved colonial era building near the city’s
Post Office. Open every day from 11.30am
to 2.30pm and 5pm to 10.30pm. 04 A/C
indian sub-continent
Annam
1C Street 282,
Tel: 023 726 661 / 099 926 661
Beautiful terracotta terrace and garden
restaurant serving north and south
Indian cuisine. Featuring an open
kitchen and air-con kids’ playpen, the
restaurant has free WiFi, draught beer
with all-day happy hour, a good selection of wines, and big screen showing
Bollywood music and movies. Ideal for
small banquets and business meetings.
Offers outdoor catering and delivery
food. Open from 11am to 11pm,
Closed on Tuesdays. 03 A/C
Dosa Corner
15 Street 51,
Tel: 012 673 276 Street
This small south Indian restaurant opened
in January. True to its name it has a wide
range of very good value dosa (US$1 to
US$2) as well as thali and biryani dishes
(US$2.50 to US$4). Air-conditioned, it’s
open from 7am to 10pm. 02 A/C
East India
9 Street 114,
Tel: 023 992 007
Predominantly South Indian cuisine in
this pristine restaurant. Excellent breads
including 9 types of dosa. All-you-caneat vegetarian Sunday special for US$4.
Open 11am to 2pm and 5.30pm to
10.30pm. 02 A/C
Flavours of India
158 Street 63,
Tel: 012 886 374 / 023 990 455
Relaxing Indian and Nepalese restaurant
with friendly staff and a good range of
dishes. Both the vegetarian and meat
thalis are good value. Open 10am to
11pm. 02 A/C
Mount Manaslu Café
1a Street 282, Tel: 023 996 514/
012 637 485/017 760 740
Nepalese restaurant set in the heart of
Boeung Keng Kang serves authentic
cuisine from the kingdom as well as Indian,
Khmer, Thai and Chinese dishes. Also has
a good range of cocktails and shakes.02
A/C
Saffron
17B Street 278,
Tel: 012 247 832
Pakistani and Middle Eastern café, restaurant and wine bar. The curries are excellent
and not too spicy, and come with a range
of breads and chutneys. The wines have a
bias towards the antipodes, including pos-
Sher-e-Punjab
16 Street 130,
Tel: 092 992 901
Just off the riverfront, this restaurant is a
favourite haunt of Phnom Penh expats
due to its tasty tandoori dishes. Highly
courteous service, and generous free
snacks and condiments make this a wallet friendly option. 02 A/C
Review: Aussie XL Café
Simon Jacy discovers the name of this new café is a not-so-subtle hint that diners are not likely to
come away unsatisfied.
Shiva Shakti
70 Sihanouk Bvd.,
Tel: 012 813 817 / 023 213 062
Decidedly upmarket and sophisticated
Indian restaurant in a beautiful setting
with prices to match. Good place for
an Indian treat, especially the tandooris.
Open from 11am to 2pm and 6pm to
10.30pm. Closed Mondays. 03 A/C
international
Art Café
84 Street 108, Tel: 012 834 517
Elegant bistro and art gallery in the style of
a European coffee house. German flame
cakes and eau de vie as specialities. Features art exhibitions and classical music
performance on Friday and Saturday.
Open from 11am to 11pm. 02 A/C
Aussie XL Café
128 Sothearos Boulevard,
Tel: 023 301 001
Aussie style bistro food with quick lunch
menu from $5. Good selection of house
wines and retail wines. Open 7am to
11pm. 03 A/C
Billabong
5 Street 158, Tel: 023 223 703
Excellent western and Asian food which
comes with a dip in the hotel’s beautiful
pool. Recently renovated. Open from 6am
to 9pm. 02
Boddhi Tree Umma
50 Street 113, Tel: 023 211 397
Relaxed garden atmospehere and open
balcony restaurant with an imaginative
menu. Right opposite Tuol Sleng. Open
7am to 9pm. 02
Café Living Room
9 Street 306, Tel: 023 726 139
Set in a stylish villa, Living Room has
healthy salads and snack plates, plus a
great tea and coffee menu. Has a kid’s
playroom and baby changeroom. Uses
organic and fair trade produce. Open
everyday from 7am to 8.30pm. 02 A/C
Do It All Pub & Bistro
61 Street 174, Te: 023 220 904
A restaurant/pub with it all. Intercontinental cuisine from African, Asian and
Western. Also playing hip-hop and reggae
into the early hours. Open 9am to 4am.
Edelwiess Restaurant
375 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 092 341 329 /
012 422 589
This open-air restaurant specialising in
German and Khmer food offers the perfect spot to enjoy an Erdinger beer while
watching life go by on the riverfront. Open
10am to late. 02
Australian cuisine (an
oxymoron according to some
critics), has now hit the Penh
in the form of XL Aussie Café.
The relaxed interior – cool AC,
comfortable padded leather
chairs and clean tablecloths
– is pleasingly reminiscent of
an upscale canteen or a wellappointed railway carriage.
Initial signs are promising
– the polite waitress presents
a laminated card with photos
to ensure that a rare steak is
indeed rare, and presumably
to warn the squeamish what
their choice actually entails.
All seems to be in order
when the food arrives; a
crisp, fresh salad, piping hot
chips adeptly fried in clean
veg oil and a large goldenbrown beef Wellington.
But the first cut betrays an
all-too-common problem. Far
from the dark reddish purple
pointed at by the waitress,
the meat is distinctly grey
at the edges, fading to a
very light pink in the middle.
Certainly nobody’s idea of a
rare cut and not improved by
gravy that smells suspiciously
like store-bought granules.
The pastry, the curse of
most substandard Wellingtons and fiendishly difficult
to get right in a tropical
climate, is surprisingly good
– flaky with just the right
amount of resistance.
Unfortunately, in a move
that would make the Iron
Duke spin in his grave, the
usual method of making Beef
Wellington seems to have
been willfully ignored. There
is no sign of any paté and the
Duxelles, the finely chopped
mixture of mushrooms,
mushroom stems, onions,
shallots and herbs sautéed
in butter that insulates the
meat from the pasty, seemed
to be a simplified version
with just strings of onion
and sliced mushrooms: A far
cry from the rich paste that
makes a good Wellington
so satisfying. Unfortunately
this slightly lumpy, overcooked version is like a cross
between the Duke’s favorite
dish and his most famous
invention – Welly boots.
Dessert, a heap of heavy
chocolate mouse piled into a
glass and topped with whipped
cream (US$3), is a much better
effort – simply delicious.
Some slight preparation issues aside, this is a solid restaurant, worth a look for ravenous
gluttons, most of whom will care
little about the nitpicking punctiliousness of a whingeing pom.
Aussie XL Café, 128 Sothearos Blvd.
Lose yourself in the taste!
50 Sihanouk Boulevard, Chamkarmorn
023 987 721
[email protected]
012009
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 37
food corner
sibly the best range of wines by the glass
in town. Open 11am to 11pm. 02 A/C
food corner
Elsewhere
2 Street 278, Tel: 012 660 232
On the Golden Mile, with two pools, sleek
white walls and sensible 8am to 11pm
opening hours. The menu at Elsewhere
features soups, salads, sandwiches and
pastas. Don’t miss out on their infamous
cocktails. There is also a kids’ menu with
child-friendly dishes. Has boutique clothes
shop upstairs. 03 A/C
FCC Phnom Penh
363 Sisowath Quay,
Tel: 023 724 014
Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant, with
sumptuous views across the river on one
side and the National Museum to the
other. It’s best to come at sunset when
the streets below are most crowded, the
cocktails are half price and draft beer goes
for US$1. Open 7am to midnight. 03
Fish
Sisowath Quay, cnr of Street 108,
Tel: 023 222 685
Contemporary, modern restaurant special-
ising in all things oceanic. Menu includes
everything from lobster through sushi to
gourmet fish and chips for upmarket, but
reasonable prices. Open 7am to late.
Flavours
Cnr. Street 51 & 278,
Tel: 017 765 896
Relaxing restaurant and popular bar run
by two Quebecois with comfortable chairs
falling onto the street. The mix of Asian
and western cuisine has proved so popular that they have a copycat restaurant
opposite. Open 7am to late. 02
Friends
215 Street 13,
Tel: 012 802 072
Non-profit training restaurant where all the
proceeds go to the neighbouring street-kid
school. Food is a reliable mix of Mediterranean and Asian with tapas thrown in if you
are not feeling too hungry. Great juices. Another one of Phnom Penh’s places designed
to take it easy, but this time with a clear
conscience. Open 11am to 9pm. 01
Garden Center Café
60-61 Street 108,
Tel: 023 997 850 / 092 429 968
www.gardencentercafe.com
Popular expat restaurant with fresh ingredients and lots of healthy options. Open from
7am to 10pm. Closed Mondays. 02
Garden Center Café 2
4B Street 57,
Tel: 023 363 002 / 092 206 582
www.gardencentercafe.com
More compact version of the Garden
Center is conveniently located close to
the popular Street 278. Open from 7am
to 10pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Gasolina
56/58 Street 57, Tel: 012 373 009
Largest garden bar and restaurant
in town. Extensive menu includes a
Saturday brunch and BBQ, and Sunday
brunch with crèche facilities. Open from
7am to 12.30am Closed Mondays. 02
Green Vespa
95 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 887 228
Arguably the best pub grub in town and
guaranteed never to send you home hungry.
Country pub style menu with wide range of
breakfasts. Special food offers each night of
the week with a range of alcohol for US$10.
Open 6.30am till late. 02 A/C
Golden Mermaid
28 Street 13, Tel: 023 998 480
New, sophisticated restaurant near the
Post Office in the old quarter, serving
traditional Old European fare. Elegant, relaxed atmosphere, housed in a beautifully
restored French colonial building. Open
7.30am to 2.30pm, and 5pm to 10.30pm.
Gym Bar
42 Street 178, Tel: 012 815 884
The best sports bar in town also has
reasonable food. Good burgers, curries
and an ignominiously named Joel Garner
hot dog. Open 11am to late. 02 A/C
Huxleys
Cnr. of Streets 136 & 5, Tel: 023 986 602
Wood-panelled traditional English pub
downstairs serving great pub grub.
Comfortable Sport Bar located on the first
floor. Open 11am to late. 03 A/C
Irina Russian Restaurant
15 Street 352, Tel: 012 833 524
Russian restaurant of iconic Phnom Penh
status. If you can walk out of the restaurant
after hitting the vodkas then you are doing
well. Open 12pm until the vodka runs out. 02
Jaan
Cnr. of Sisowath Quay & Street 106
Latest venture from the owners of the popular
Flavours Restaurant and Liquid Bar on Street
278, this river-fronted restaurant spills out
on the pavement providing a great vantage
point to see the night market unfold. Meaning
‘plate’ in Khmer it has an extensive menu of
Asian, Khmer and international cuisine. 02
Java Cafe & Gallery
56 Sihanouk Bvd., Tel: 023 987 420
Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match sandwiches and juices served in an elegant setting.
The terrace, which overlooks the Independence Monument, is a good place to sit and
while away your afternoon. The relaxed inside
|
38 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
ISSUE37
dining area has a small gallery attached to it
with exhibitions of Cambodian photography
and art. Open 7am to 10pm. 02 A/C
K West
1 Street 154 (Cnr. Sisowath Quay)
Tel: 023 214 747
Stylish aircon bar and restaurant below the
Amanjaya with an excelllent steak menu
and good value happy hour from 6pm to
8pm Fridays. Now has a brasserie menu
with daily specials. Also has free Wifi.
Open 6.30am to midnight. 03 A/C
Le Liban
3 Street 466,
Tel: 092 483 759
New Lebanese restaurant with beautiful indoor
and outdoor seating. Authentic middle-eastern
cuisine served in an elegant atmosphere. Open
from 11am to 2pm and 6pm till late. 03 A/C
Le Quay Café
Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 110,
Tel: 023 998 730,
www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com
The restaurant side of Amara Spa specialises
in 28 varieties of crêpes (US$2.50 to US$8)
with salads (US$3 to US$4.50) and panini
(US$3.50 to US$6) also featuring strongly on
the menu. Le Quay is a very healthy additional
to the riverside scene. Open from 8am to
11pm (to 1am on Friday & Saturday). 02 A/C
Le Rit’s
14 Street 310, Tel: 023 213 160
Restaurant and boutique handicraft shop
run by the NGO NYEMO, set in a beautiful
garden, the restaurant specialises in Asian
and European cuisine. Open from 7am to
5pm, closed Sundays. 02
Madeleines Bakery
19 street 228, Tel: 012 988 432
A bakery and restaurant offering a
variety of baked goods as well as organic
lunches and catering services. Open
Monday to Saturday 8am to 5pm. 02
Metro Café
Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148
Tel: 023 222 275
Stylish Metro has much more than cool décor
and changing light boxes. Contemporary Asian
and western dishes on a manageable menu divided into small plates, grills, salads, soups and
large plates. Also has reasonably priced Tiger,
house wines and a great range of Martinis. try
the Expresso and you’ll never look back. Free
Wifi. Open 10am to 11pm. 03 A/C
Nature & Sea
Cnr. Street 51 & 278, Tel: 012 195 3810
Laid back eatery overlooking Wat Langka.
Serves many types of fish dishes as well
as some great crepes. Also sells some
take home organic produce. Open everday 8am to 10pm. 02
Ocean
11 Street 288, Tel: 017 766 690
European managed Mediterranean restaurant that dishes up some of the best fish
and seafood in town. Try the red snapper
or the squid with rocket. Often has exhibition around the understated walls. 03 A/C
One More Pub
16E Street 294, Tel: 017 327 378
English-style bar with comfortable wooden
bar stools, filled with traditional paraphernalia
Name: Num Ga-Chai
(Leek Cake)
Price: 500 riel per cake.
Ingredients: The cake consists of leek, sugar and MSG,
covered in a rice flour casing.
This is fried both sides until
crispy and brown.
Served: The cake is served
in a puddle of frying oil with
a generous helping of bottled
chilli sauce sensuously
layered over the top. This
and enough flags to make the UN envious.
No hip hop nor techno music, instead hearty
Teutonic fare. Open from 11am to 2pm &
5pm to 12am, happy hour from 5pm to
7pm, closed Tuesdays. 03 A/C
Pacharan
389 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 224 394
Barcelona comes to Phnom Penh via London’s
Mayfair in this exquisite up-market bodega.
Aircon restaurant that specialises in tapas and
fine Spanish wines. Set in a beautiful colonial
building with great decor, an open kitchen and
sweeping views of the river, Pacharan is one of
Cambodia’s finest. Second branch in Ho Chi
Minh City. Open from 11am to 12am. 02 A/C
Pickled Parrot
4-6 Street 104,
Tel: 012 633 779 / 023 986 722
www.tonlesapguesthouse.com
Aircon bar with an excellent 9-ball pool
table. 24-hour satellite sports channel.
Reliable international and Khmer cuisine
is available at the bar. Open 24 hours with
free WiFi. 02 A/C
Restaurant Tell
13 Street 90,Tel: 023 430 650
Up-market eatery that re-creates the genuine feel of an Alpine chalet. Older sister to
its namesake restaurant in Saigon’s District
1, it has a spacious indoor restaurant and
outdoor terrace with rotisserie and bar. European menu with imported steaks, fondue,
raclette and an extensive wine list. Open
11.30am to 2pm & 5pm to 11pm. 03 A/C
Rising Sun
20 Street 178, Tel: 012 970 719
English-style pub with good breakfast,
meat pies and hamburgers. Has a regular
following at night especially on Fridays.
Great posters of British films and TV classics adorn the walls. Ideal for that touch
of nostalgia and the fish and chips are
good, although not wrapped in newspaper. Open 7am to last orders. 02
food corner
Street Food: Num
Ga-Chai (Leek Cake)
is neatly packaged inside a
dainty white Styrofoam box
and comes with complimentary packaged chopsticks.
Taste: Indescribable – has
to be tasted to be believed
(2 out of 5).
Where to get it: From street
carts pushed along the roads
by toothless but utterly adorable sellers.
Other Info: Usually only available after about 1pm
Riverhouse Restaurant
6 Street 110, Tel: 012 766 743 / 023 212 302
Sophisticated restaurant with a welcoming
outside seating area that serves up a mix
of Asian and western food. Has a nightclub upstairs. 03 A/C
Riverside Bistro
Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148,
Tel: 012 277 882 / 012 766 743
Popular restaurant with expats and tourists
alike mainly due to its large outdoor terrace
area to view the river. Serves a mixture of
Asian and western food with an emphasis
on German cuisine. Has rock music videos
and a pool table in the Mata Hari pub at
the back. Open from 7am to 2am. 02
Scoop Bistro Bar
2-6A Regency Square,
Mao Tse Tung Blvd., Tel: 023 424 457
Chic bistro with a simple, yet refined black &
white design with comfortable, high-backed
dining chairs providing seclusion from other
diners. Wonderfully conceived menu with
homemade pasta and varied selection of
vegetarian dishes. Slightly raised lounge area
is ideal for cocktail or coffee. Three private
rooms. Open 11am to midnight, closed Sundays, reservations recommended. 04 A/C
Steve’s Steakhouse
20 Street 51, cnr. Street 282,
Tel: 023 987 320
Longstanding restaurant specialising in local grain-fed beef as well as a large variety
of imported steaks, hamburgers, ribs and
Greek cuisine. Has a terraced lounge with
pool tables upstairs as well as a sports
bar with large screen TV. Happy Hour from
12pm to 7.30pm. Open from 11am to
10.30pm. 02 A/C
Talkin to a Stranger
21B Street 294
Cosy garden restaurant cum bar using
imported Australian and local products.
Menu changes regularly and Thursday
012009
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 39
food corner
Bargain Bucket:
Oodles of Class
The handmade noodles at Noodle Shop will tempt even the
most loyal of rice eaters. Words by Kate Liana.
OPEN; Everyday
19:00
8:00
~
St.63 St. 322, BKK 1, Phnom Penh
T E L & F A X 023-726480 H / P 012-842970
[email protected]
h t t p : / / w w w. k s l i n e - c a m b o d i a . c o m
Japanese Kitchen
Mr. Sushi & Kokoro
Sushi Buffet $11.75*
Salmon roll
Tuna sushi
Tempura
25 Kinds of Food!
Karaoke room with more than 2000 songs in English
(Holds up to 17 people)
Eo 18 Shihanouk Blvd, Phnom penh, 012 601 095
*evenings only
|
40 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
ISSUE37
Silky, toothsome, fresh were quick to supply fresh
and delicious, patrons will fall
chilli and explain the various
head over heels in love with
sauces on the table.
The only thing that was
the Noodle Shop’s noodles.
Dolled up and tricked out in a
incongruous was the drink
variety of flavours and styles,
menu. Soft drinks were
their inner beauty shines
US$2, Beer Lao and Chang
through and leaves diners
US$1.70, and a single glass
of wine came to US$4,
longing for more.
In Jar Jan (US$2.50) they
which was more than any
dish on the menu. Not
were joined by minced pork
and scallions, in a tasty, thick outrageous prices, but
gravy. Fried La Mien Panaeng strange for a place with
noodles (US$3) had a lovely,
such cheap fare.
rich spiciness, packed with
Housed in the former site
basil and tender beef, a bit
of the infamous Broken Bricks
on the oily side but a favouat the intersection of Street
rite of the table. The delicious 130 and 5, the colonial-style
Kari (US$2.50) was a strong
building has had a complete
green curry with peanut,
makeover. The outside is
fresh vegetables, Mekong
painted a light, buttercup
fish and rice noodles. Cold
yellow with white trim. The
salads (US$3) offered a
marble tables and wicker
choice of vermicelli, glass
chairs give a mellow, classy
noodles or the handmade
vibe, along with dark wood
ones. They come with roast
accents at the bar and along
pork, roast duck, seafood
the walls. Inside and out are
or “stomach”. Soups also
sparkling clean.
came with the same varietIf you’re out for entertainment, it’s fun to watch the
ies (US$3.50). Glass noodle
soup with lemongrass was
chefs stretch and slap batches of noodles on the counter
fragrant and light, though
the broth was still rich. All of
at their stall outside. Otherwise enjoy your company and
the food was fresh and tasty,
savour every mouthful.
though – with the exception
Noodle Shop, Monument
Cnr. Streets
of the Panaeng
– lacking
a of the Independence
Located
at the park
in front
130
5.
good dose of(see
spice.
Staff
map
on page 90
for&location)
LUNCH BUFFET
ONLY $3
More VEGGIES, less meat,
in this collaboration of
Japanese food and
Cambodian food
The Shop
39 Street 240, Tel: 092 955 963
Stylish café, with a wide range of fresh
bread, tempting patisseries and juices, excellent salads and sandwiches. Crowded
at lunchtime, but the small, cool courtyard
at the back creates a perfect haven from
the sun. Open 7am to 7pm Monday to
Saturday and 7am to 3pm Sunday. 02
The Winking Frog
128 Sothearos Blvd.,
Tel: 023 356 399
Large air-con British-run pub with live band
at weekends, including karaoke on Saturdays. Thai Chef preparing pub grub, Thai
and Khmer food and large slate, 9-ball pool
table at the back, this place offers something
for everyone. Has a 31-room guesthouse
upstairs. Open 24 hours. 02 A/C
Velkommen Inn
23 Street 104, Tel: 092 177 710
Comfortable hotel restaurant and bar,
the Velcommen Inn, just off the riverfront,
offers a wide selection of western dishes
as well as several Scandinavian specialities with a full bar, draught beer, wine and
sprits. Open 7am till late. 02
italian
Aria D’Italia
9 Street 254, Tel: 012 840 705
Cute little Italian pizzeria tucked away
between Streets 51 and 55, next to Naga
Clinic. Well-priced lunch set menu and
homemade ravioli. Home delivery available. Open 10.30am to 2pm, and 5.30pm
to 10pm. 03 A/C
La Volpaia
20–22 Street 13, Tel: 023 992 739
Part of a global pizzeria chain that includes
Florence, Tokyo, Seoul and Phnom Penh.
Good terrace area and inside aircon room.
The cuisine is excellent with pizza and pasta
cooked fresh in front of your eyes. 03 A/C
Le Duo
17 Street 228,
Tel: 012 342 921 / 023 991 906
This beautiful restaurant has the option of
sitting outside or inside in air-con. Excellent wood-fired pizzas and pasta. Friendly
Sicilian owner will guide you through the
extensive wine list. Open from 11.45am
to 2.15pm & 6.15pm to 10.15pm (closed
Wednesday lunch). 02 A/C
of Japanese vodka. Open 11.30am to
2pm and 5.30pm to 9pm. 02 A/C
Luna d’Autunno
6C Street 29,
Tel: 023 220 895
Beautiful courtyard or stylish interior air-con
restaurant, whichever you choose, Luna has
more classical pizzas, both red and white,
to choose from than most restaurants. Also
serves excellent pasta and other up-market
Italian food. Good wine cellar on view in
the restaurant. Open 11am to 2.30pm and
5.30pm to 10.30pm. 03 A/C
Origami
88 Sothearos Bvd., Tel: 012 968 095
Up-market, contemporary Japanese restaurant with a spacious air-con area downstairs
and four private rooms upstairs. Specialises
in sushi and tempura, and has Asahi, Kirin
and Sapporo beers. Open from 11.30am to
2pm and 5.30pm to 9.30pm. 03 A/C
Pop Café
371 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 562 892
A sophisticated, small Italian restaurant
located next to the FCC that serves light,
contemporary Italian cuisine including fresh
pasta and pizzas. Extremely popular with
expats. Open for lunch from 11.30am to
2.30pm and 6pm to 10pm for dinner. 02 A/C
japanese & korean
Fusion Sushi
Cnr. Streets 47 & 84, Tel: 023 986 114
Located inside of Cara Hotel. Beautifully decorated, impeccable service. Serves excellent
quality Japanese and Korean sushi. 04 A/C
Le Seoul
62 Monivong Blvd.
Popular up-market South Korean restaurant
specialising in BBQ. Each table is equipped
with its own charcoal burner. All beef is
imported from the U.S.. Open from 11am
to 2.30pm and 5pm to 10pm. 03 A/C
Mr. Sushi & Ko Ko Ro
18 Sihanouk Bvd., Tel: 012 601 095
Affordable, canteen-style restaurant with
lots of specials dotted around the walls.
Charismatic owner has a copious supply
Suzume
14A Street 51, Tel: 092 748 393
Affordable, canteen-style restaurant with
lots of specials dotted around the walls.
Charismatic owner has a copious supply
of Japanese vodka. Open 11.30am to
2pm and 5.30pm to 9pm. 02 A/C
Yumi Restaurant, Bar and Grill
29a Street 288, Tel: 092 163 903
An elegant but inexpensive English run
Yakitori restaurant nestled in to a quiet
street in BKK. Serving top-notch Japanese nibbles, hot and cold sake, plum
wine, wine and beer. Don’t leave without
trying the salt and chili squid. 03 A/C
mexican & tex-mex
Alley Cat Café
Cnr. of Streets 19, 178, Tel: 012 306 845
Small, friendly patio café serving good
Mexican food and claiming to have the
biggest burgers in town. Hard to find, Alley
Cat is tucked down an alley at the back of
the National Museum, the first on the right
if you are coming from Street 178. 02
Cantina
347 Sisowath Quay,
Tel: 023 222 502
A mainstay of the riverside scene, this is
a popular meeting place for local expats.
Serves good Mexican fare and features photographs that capture the changing face of
Cambodia. Wicked tequilas and margaritas.
Open 3pm to late, closed on Saturdays. 02
Casa Lika
16 Street 136, Tel. 012 429 542.
An American run family restaurant serving up
some of the best Mexican fare in town. The
rustic brick walls and colourful Mexican artwork sets an authentic tone. With great music
and even better tacos. A great place to share
some Coronas with friends. 02
Freebird
69 Street 240,
Tel: 023 224 712
Aircon American bar with neon lighting, a
variety of memorabilia, comfortable seats,
rock music. International menu with good
lunch offers, an excellent range of bottled
sauces, excellent International, Mexican
food and burgers. Be prepared for some
good solid R&R. Open 7am to midnight.
02 A/C
Sharky Bar
126 Street 130, Tel: 023 211 825
www.sharkysofcambodia.com
Not just a pretty face, the biggest & most
famous of Phnom Penh’s bars has one of the
best menus in town. The burritos and burgers
are extremely good, although of gargantuan
proportions. Open 4pm to 2am. 02
thai & pan-asian
Anise Terrace
2C Street 278, Tel: 023 222 522
Beautiful terrace restaurant serving up
South-East Asian cuisine. Does excellent
value breakfasts and also sells New
Zealand ice cream. Open 6am to 11pm. 02
Chow
277 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 224 894
Contemporary and sophisticated
riverfront restaurant that serves
southeast Asian cuisine, a wide range
of cocktails,juices and Illy coffee. Great
place to have a drink during itd half-price
4pm to 8pm happy hour. Open 7am to
11pm. 04 A/C
Kucina Filipina Garden
No 16 Street 306. Tel: 023 993 219/
099 860 775
Settled in a nice villa with open air garden.
Kucina serves non-vegetarian and
vegetarian food. It is very popular with the
Penh’s Filipino community, excellent value
meals. Open from Monday-Friday from
7am-6pm, every Friday and Saturday
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food corner
night is special roast lamb night. Excellent cocktails menu. Open 5pm to late,
Sunday to Friday. Sat closed, but available
for private functions. 02
food corner
@Del Gusto
serves dinner buffet from 6:00pm8:30pm. 01
Lemongrass
14 Street 130, Tel: 012 996 707
Elegantly designed Thai-managed
restaurant that serves Thai and Khmer
cuisine. Aircon with stylish use of heavy
wood and artefacts to create a far more
luxurious ambience than the reasonable
prices would suggest. 02 A/C
Lunch: 11:30 am – 2:30 pm
Dinner: 6 pm – 10 pm
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42 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
ISSUE37
Le Wok
33 Street 178, Tel: 092 821 857
Light and mod,ern pan-Asian and French
eatery with dishes such as prawns with lime
and wasabi and Mekong lobster thermidor.
Comprehensive wine list and cocktails.
Open Daily from 9am to 11pm. 03
cafés
Art Café
84 Street 108, Tel: 012 834 517
Elegant bistro and art gallery in the style
of an European coffee house that opened
early January. German flame cakes and
eau de vie as specialities. Open from
11am to 11pm. A/C
Café El Mundo
219 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 520 775
Affordable and stylish riverside café and
restaurant with adjacent apartments for
short-term hire. Seating available on the
mezzanine lounge, ground-floor restaurant and on the street-side terrace. Open
6.30am to 10.30pm.
Paratan Restaurant
42 Street 172,
Tel: 012 530 707/011 530 707
Cozy, traditional-style Khmer-Thai restaurant near Wat Saravorn. Set on two floors,
the first floor also features a open-air
balcony. Open 9am to 1pm, free delivery.
Café Fresco I
363 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 217 041
This outlet at the base of the FCC sells
strong Illy coffee and mix-and-match
sandwiches. The interior has a slight
retro 70s feel to it and there is a pleasant
outside seating area. Open 8am to 8pm.
A/C
Regent Park Hotel
58 Sothearos Blvd.,
Tel: 023 427 131
Little known but excellent Thai restaurant
that serves well prepared and wonderfully spicey dishes. A subdued elegant
setting and reasonable prices make this
a real find. 02 A/C
Café Fresco II
Cnr. Streets 51 & 306, Tel: 023 224 891
Second outlet of the popular riverside
café is in BKK. Has a similar feel and
menu to its fore-runner including the
same excellent coffee. Open 7am to 7pm.
A/C
Singapore Kitchen
110 Street 360,
Tel: 092 201 304, 017 821 480
Specialising in classic Singapore hawker
food, the new improved Kitchen has a
more relaxing atmosphere than its previous
incarnation. Try the laksa – full of wholesome ingredients and with a great spicy,
creamy sauce – those wanting a more
subtle flavour could do worse than trying
the Hainanese chicken rice. Open from
11am to 9.30pm, does delivery. 02 A/C
Café Fresco III
58 Street 53, Tel: 023 214 984
The third outlet on the chain has the same
mix of sandwiches, cakes, coffee and
smoothies is close to the Central Market,
making an ideal location to take a break
from all that shopping. Open 7am to 6pm.
A/C
Café Living Room
9 Street 306, Tel: 023 726 139
Set in a stylish villa, Living Room has
Café Sentiment
64 Monivong Blvd.;
Sovanna Mall; Cnr. Streets 63 & 278
Popular coffee shop chain run by the
same Thalias group that manages Malis
and Topaz restaurants, has a good range
of coffees and snacks. Free WiFi and aircon make these outlets a good place to
take some time out. 02 A/C
Café Yejj
170 Street 450, (near the Russian Market),
Tel: 012 543 360
Quiet, cosy café serving bistro-style
western cuisine, with extensive range of
coffees. Good pasta dishes, a wide selection of pannini and wraps and fabulous
cheesecake make this an ideal spot to
escape the bustle of the nearby Russian
Market. Air-conditioned dining upstairs.
Open every day from 8am to 5pm. 02 A/C
Chill Ice Cream & Coffee Lounge
219D Sisowath Quay, Tel: 092 547 534
Pretty, casual lounge on the riverside
offering coffee, sandwiches, cocktails, and
some of the best homemade ice cream in
town, as well as inventive ice cream cocktails. Open 11am to midnight. 02 A/C
Corner 33
33E2 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 092 998 850
First-floor café over looking the Royal
Palace. Asian & Western meals served for
beakfast, lunch and dinner with a nice selection of wines, cocktails, smoothies, and
coffees. Four computer terminals allow
customers to surf while they chill. A/C
Java Café & Gallery
56 Sihanouk Boulevard,
Tel: 023 987 420
Great coffees, salads, mix-and-match
sandwiches and juices served in an
elegant setting. The relaxed inside dining
area has a small gallery attached to it.
Open 7am to 10pm. A/C
Java Tea Room
Monument Books,
111 Norodom Blvd., Tel: 092 451 462
Second outlet of the popular Java Café
located in the rear of Monument Books.
Has comfortable mismatched sofas and
antique-look décor. A small lunch menu is
available along with an extensive tea and
coffee menu. A/C
food corner
healthy salads and snack plates, plus a
great coffee menu. Has a kid’s playroom
and baby changeroom. Uses organic and
fair trade produce. Open everyday from
7am to 8.30pm. 02 A/C
La Gourmandise Bleue Patisserie
159 St 278, Tel: 023 994 019
Delightful French patisserie with a touch
of the middle-east, offering chocolates,
macaroons, pastries, baklava along with
coffee and tea. The menu now incudes
breakfast, salad and couscous (order
one day in advance). Open from 7am to
8pm. 02 A/C
Madeleine’s Café & Bakery
19 Street 228, Tel: 012 988 432
Bakery and restaurant offering a variety of
baked goods, organic lunches and catering services. Open Monday to Saturday
8am to 5pm.
Morning Café
32C Street 592,
Tel: 023 982 109 / 012 808 816
Cosy air-conditioned coffee house with
relaxed atmosphere, located in Toul Kork
district serves Khmer, Thai and European
cuisine. Open every day for breakfast,
lunch and dinner from 6am to 9pm.
The Coffee Maker
50 Sihanouk Blvd.,
Tel: 023 987 721 / 012 506 400
Recently opened, modern café overlooking
Hun Sen Park, serves coffee, juices and
light refreshments. Already popular with
middle-class Khmers, this is a great place
to watch the early evening exercises.
The Deli
13 Street 178, Tel: 012 851 234
Chic delicatessen, bakery and small
restaurant serving excellent bread and
pastries. Take-away menu includes
sandwiches from US$2.50 and salads
from US$3. Open from 6.30am to 10pm
(closed Sundays). A/C
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bar stool
bar stool
The Wrath of Grapes
Shrivelled walnut brain? Carpet tongue? Sandpapered eyes and hair that actually hurts? We’re
here to help. AsiaLIFE investigates some local hangover remedies.
Metro Café – the ideal place to recover from the night before
Ah, drinking – the cause
of, and solution to most of life’s
great problems. Phnom Penh,
with its tempting overabundance
of drinking dens, tends to produce
a healthy crop of drunks. But
alcohol, the great leveler, makes
no exceptions – next day no-one
is spared the grim reality of what
feels like a fate worse than death.
Fortunately, there is a wealth
of different options to better
cope with the awful aftereffects of
alcoholic overindulgence.
Line that stomach
Get rid of hangovers the English
way over at the new 3 Rivers bar
restaurant and guesthouse. As
most Brits will tell you, a hearty
dose of cholesterol is probably not
just what the doctor ordered, but
will set the hurting back on the
path to recovery. The Hangover
Special (US$7.50) consists of a
full English breakfast (with proper
breakfast sausages), a Royal D,
that orange re-hydration wonder
worker, and a thick and spicy
Bloody Mary. The open-plan bar
boasts a wide range of seating to
suit all – even the wooziest party
|
44 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
ISSUE37
casualty couldn’t fall out of the
padded loungers, and the quiet
side street location is perfect for an
afternoon’s recuperation. 3 Rivers,
Street 258, near Hun Sen Park.
finding what’s lost
Believers in fate will see the Lost
and Found as a fortuitous appellation calling in the Lakeside
strays. The low-slung entrance
lurking down a diminutive back
alley hides an almost Ottothe local solution
man opulence. Mounds of soft
Café Sentiment, a glass box
cushions give an impression of
perched on a prominent corner,
a sleek Sheikh’s harem; ideal
might seem good only to comfor lying prone, swearing you’ll
pound your miseries, putting
never touch another drop. Luckyour bedraggled form on show
ily, the Lost and Found has a
for passersby to sneer at. But
brave the crowd of busy suits and cornucopia of tipples on offer for
those with less willpower, along
you’ll find a surprisingly tasty
with a large collection of films
and uniquely Khmer treat – a
to blankly stare at as you slowly
Green Mango Shake (US$2).
recover. Good fish and chips is
Those not overly-fond of the
eye-wateringly bitter unripe fruit, available across the road. Lost
usually served in Cambodia with and Found, First alley on the
right of Street 93, Lakeside.
damp chilli salt, need not fear.
While the eerie green liquid is
metropolitan tonics
anything but visually appealing, the sourness is tamed in the With its funky artwork and wrap
thickened shake, with a little sug- around windows, Metro is certainly one of the places to be seen for
ar to round out the taste. Grab
cosmopolitan Penhites. But, while
one of Sentiment’s tasty pastries
for an accompanying sugar rush. listening to the shrill banter of
overpaid NGO staff and the gruff
One word of warning – beware
braying of puffed-up businessmen
brain freeze. Café Sentiment,
may sound unappealing for those
156 Corner Street 63 & Street
nursing the hangover from hell,
278, BKK I.
the cocktails are definitely worth
a look. Go for the ever-popular
Bloody Mary (US$4.10) or try the
Ginger Metropolitan (US$4.10),
absolute citron, cointreau and
lime juice, is a hale tonic indeed.
Tangy, sweet and bitter all at
once, the taste is perfect to cut
through the day after’s nausea,
sharp enough to bludgeon its way
through even the most deadened
taste buds. Accompanied by salty
crisps, a safe precursor to a meal
for the hypersensitive, this is like a
medicinal whisky sour with a kick
– ginger beer for grownups. Café
Metro, 271 Street 148, corner
Sisowath Quay.
keep the sunglasses on
Chow, a shiny white homage to
Bangkok’s Bed Club, has made
a name for itself as a hangout
for the preened and the peremptory on the riverside. Yet few
have realized the breezy rooftop’s
potential for a relaxing hair-ofthe-dog daytime drink. Luckily,
a shiny lift eliminates most of
the stairs, though the last two
temple-throbbing flights could
be an unwelcome surprise. Still,
bar stool
Café Sentiment – the local cure
it’s a small price to pay for the
sweeping views over the river and
beyond, and a much more relaxed
feel than the 1970’s Buck Rogers
futurism downstairs.
The gentle beats are soothing
and a dip in the shallow tiled pool
is the perfect refresher. The Chow
Bloody Mary (US$6), a cocktail
clearly invented for the chronically hung over, is given a Mediterranean feel with olives as well as
celery, and a combination of red
and green Tabasco gives the kick,
replacing the usual Worcestershire
sauce and occasional horseradish. Thinner and shorter than
the usual, a secret ingredient (red
wine, according to the waiter),
this is a very quaffable, moreish
heart starter, sure to put even the
terminal back on their feet. Chow,
363 Sisowath Quay.
go for a soak
The Blue Lime, a short stagger
from the Royal Palace and a
crawl away from the National
Museum, offers a verdant haven
from the pitiless streets. A long
lie in cool, dappled shade in
the lush, exotic garden is a
great rejuvenator after a dip
in the swimming pool. Those
worried about sinking need not
fret – the 14m-pool is filled
with natural sea salt water from
Kampot for easy floating. Big
blocks on the side allow punters
to sip from their restorative
cocktails while swimming. The
restaurant serves food on the
terrace or day-beds around the
pool from 7am. Blue Lime, 42
Street 19z, behind Royal Institute of Fine Arts as you order at
least two glasses.
Cool blue water at Blue Lime
012009
ISSUE37
| Asialife Phnom Penh 45
bar stool
bar stool guide
key to symbols
A/C
Air Conditioning
Free Wireless Internet Service
Tiger Super Cold
Live Music and DJs
Aristocrat Cigar Bar
NagaWorld, Hun Sen Park
Gentlemen’s club aimed at attracting wealthy
Khmers who like a good cigar and glass of
wine. Not as stuffy as you might imagine and
cigars are available form US$10. A/C
Bar 33
33 E2 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 092 998 850
Upstairs from Corner 33 and run by the same
owners, is a sophisticated spot to have a cocktail while looking across the Royal Palace. For a
taste of Somerset have a Strongbow cider. A/C
Cadillac Bar & Grill
219E Sisowath Quay, Tel: 011 713 567
Air-conditioned riverfront bar which promises a hassle-free drink. Mixing up burgers,
pasta and some Asian food with Blues and
rock and roll, this American-style bar serves
good hearty food. Open 8am to 1am. A/C
Cathouse Tavern
4 Street 51
The longest standing of Phnom Penh’s
bars, which was the only bar in town during
the U.N. days. The large curved bar invites
you to sit and chat with the welcoming
barstaff. Open 4pm to midnight. A/C
China Brand Tea
cnr of Monivong and Mao Tse Tung Blvds
Stocks a large variety of mainly Chinese
teas, as well as beautiful tea sets.
Chow
277 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 224 894
Contemporary and sophisticated riverfront
restaurant that serves southeast Asian
cuisine, a wide range of cocktails, juices
and Illy coffee. Great place to have a drink
during its half-price 4pm to 8pm happy
hour. Open 7am to 11pm. A/C
Do It All Pub & Bistro
61 Street 174, Te: 023 220 904
A restaurant/pub with it all. Intercontinental cuisine from African, Asian and
Western. Also playing hip-hop and reggae
into the early hours. Open 9am to 4am.
Dodo Rhum House
42C Street 178,
Tel: 012 549 373
Bar named after an extinct bird, which
is brave considering the turnover rate in
town. Nicely decorated with strong, wooden bar and chill-out room at the back. Has
a good specials menu and tapas as well
as over 20 different flavoured rums created
by bar’s owner. Open 5pm to late.
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46 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
ISSUE37
Elephant Bar
Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Street 92
Tel: 023 981 888
Pleasant bar, popular with expats especially
during the two-for-one happy hours (4pm
to 8pm). A flamboyant carpet, comfortable
wicker chairs and hotel pianist provide a
sense of a time gone by. Has many signature
cocktails, including its more illustrious sister
hotel’s trademark Singapore Sling. (Open
2pm to 12am Monday to Friday & 12pm to
12am Saturday & Sunday). A/C
Elsewhere
2 Street 278, Tel: 012 660 232
Re-located to the bustling Golden Mile,
with two pools, sleek white walls and
sensible 8am to 11pm opening hours. The
menu at Elsewhere features soups, salads,
sandwiches and pastas. Don’t miss out
on their infamous cocktails. There is also a
kids’ menu with child-friendly dishes. Has
boutique clothes shop upstairs. 03 A/C
Equinox
3A Street 278,
Tel: 012 586 139 or 092 791 958
Cool French-run hang-out on with new
menu including breakfast. Upstairs bar has
a nice open balcony, good cocktails and
music. Downstairs is the best foosball table
in town. Also has a second street-level bar
and terrace restaurant with regular art exhibitions. Popular place for WiFi. Open 7am
to late, Serves food from 7am to midnight
and delivers from 8am to 10pm.
FCC Phnom Penh
363 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 724 014
The first stop for newcomers and it’s easy
to see why. Set in a beautiful colonial
house with sumptuous views across
the river on one side and the National
Museum to the other. It’s best to come at
sunset when the streets below are most
crowded, the cocktails are half price and
draft beer goes for US$1. Open 7am to
midnight.
Flavours
Cnr. Street 51 & 278, Tel: 012 175 896
Relaxing restaurant and popular bar run
by two Quebecois with comfortable chairs
that fall out onto the street. The mix of
Asian and western cuisine has proved so
popular that they have a copycat restaurant opposite. Open 7am to late.
Fly Lounge
21A Street 148, Tel: 089 509 007
Cool Cambodian-owned chill-out lounge
with indoor pool and dancefloor.Changing, funky décor and themed parties.
Open 5pm to late
Freebird
69 Street 240, Tel: 023 224 712
Aircon American bar with neon lighting, a variety of memorabilia, comfortable seats, rock
music. International menu with good lunch
offers, an excellent range of bottled sauces,
excellent International, Mexican food and
burgers. Be prepared for some good solid
R&R. Open 7am to midnight. A/C
Gasolina
56/58 Street 57, Tel: 012 373 009
The largest garden bar in town.
Extensive menu includes a Saturday
brunch and BBQ, and Sunday brunch
with crèche facilities. Open from
7am to 12.30am. Closed Mondays.
Green Vespa
95 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 887 228
The walls of this popular expat haunt are
strewn with photos of vespas and VIPs. Has
an excellent selection of single malt whisky,
and does a US$10 special combination of
food and drink. Good music, especially if you
are an 80s throwback. Open early till late. A/C
Gym Bar
42 Street 178, Tel: 012 815 884
The best sports bar in town with more wide
screens than sense and a good nine-ball
pool table to boot. Ideal for watching Premiership football or any other sport. The food
is good and there’s a non-sports quiz every
Tuesday. Open 11am to late. A/C
Howie’s Bar
32 Street 51
Air-conditioned and open until very late,
this is the Heart’s unofficial chill-out bar
although the sound system could give the
Heart a run for its money. Tends to be a
popular late hang-out, especially around
the pool table. Open 7pm to 6am. A/C
Huxleys
Cnr. of Streets 136 & 5, Tel: 023 986 602
The wood-panelled interior decorated
with posters of famous British screen
personalities and sportspeople helps to
create the atmosphere of a Covent Garden bar. Well-stocked bar with fantastic
cocktails. Sports bar upstairs! A/C
K West
1 Street 154 (Cnr. Sisowath Quay)
Tel: 023 214 747
Air-conditioned bar and restaurant with a
good value happy hour from 6pm to 8pm
Fridays. Renowned for excellent mojitos.
Open 6.30am to midnight. A/C
Liquid
Street 278, Tel: 012 765 896
Welcoming Metroesque bar on the popular Street 278 run by the same owner as
Flavours. Serves food and good cocktails.
Has one of the best pool tables in town.
Happy Hour from 5pm – 8pm. A/C
Man Han Lou
456 Monivong Blvd., Tel: 023 721 966
Cambodia’s first micro-brewery with four
types of German-style beer. The dark
beer comes recommended, avoid the
green unless you are on St Paddy’s night.
Maxine’s
Over Japanese Bridge, Tel: 012 200 617
Stirringly eclectic bar right on the river, boasting the best sunset views in Cambodia. Across
the Japanese Bridge, Maxine’s – or Snow’s
Bar – is well worth seeking out for it’s laid back
ambience and old Indochine charm. Open
Friday - Sunday from sunset til sunrise.
Memphis Pub
3 Street 118, Tel: 012 871 263
Permanent rock venue in town with a house
band that plays covers.Band plays from 10pm
til 1.30am, later at weekends. Also has open
mike sessions on Mondays. Open from 8pm
til late, closed Sundays. Buy-1-get-1-free on
cocktails everyday from 8pm to 10pm. A/C
Meta House
6 Street 264, Tel: 012 607 465
www.meta-house.com
This multi-media arts centre established
by German Nico Mesterham opened in
January. Has a very cool terrace bar with
barbecue. Closed Mondays.
Metro Café
Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 148.
Tel: 023 222 275
Stylish and swish, Metro has much more
than a cool décor and changing light boxes.
Reasonably priced Tiger and house wines
and a great range of Martinis, try the Expresso. Open 7:30am to 01am. A/C
Munich Beer Restaurant
Sothearos Blvd.
Second of the Penh’s micro-brewery offers a gold and stout beer at very reasonable prices – treat yourself to a stein.
One More Pub
16E Street 294, Tel: 017 327 378
English-style bar with comfortable wooden bar stools. No hip hop nor techno
music, instead hearty Teutonic fare. Has
elegant, terracotta-tiled terrace and four
guest rooms upstairs (US$22 to US$30).
Open from 5pm to late, happy hour from
5pm to 7pm, closed Sundays. A/C
Open Wine
219 Street 19,
Tel: 023 223 527
Large wine shop with well-priced wines
from around the world. Has an outside
dining area with occasional wine tastings.
Open from 9am to 11pm every day. A/C
Pacharan
389 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 224 394
Barcelona comes to Phnom Penh via
London’s Mayfair in this exquisitely upmarket bodega. Specialising in tapas and
fine Spanish wines, this air-conditioned
restaurant and bar is set in a beautiful
colonial building with great decoration, an
open kitchen and sweeping views of the
river. Open from 11am to 11pm. A/C
Pickled Parrot
4-6 Street 104, Tel: 012 633 779
Air-conditioned bar with excellent 9-ball
pool table, that’s a popular late night
hang-out with expats. Reliable international cuisine is available at the bar, free
internet and 24-hour cable sports channels. Clean well-kept guesthouse upstairs
with 15 rooms. Open 24 hours. A/C
bar stool
Bar Talk:
California 2 – Take 2
A new location, a slick look and the same great fish tacos.
Craig Gerard sits down with owner Jim Heston.
“I’m a working stiff,”
Jim Heston claims. His
newly renovated California
2 on the north end of the
River Front has kept him busy
over the past year. He and
the bar manager personally constructed much of the
woodwork in the sleek new
pub. “I haven’t had a day off
in six months,” laments Jim,
“I just don’t want to lose the
momentum.” His momentum
has him rolling through a
typical day that starts at noon,
and usually doesn’t finish until
3am. Long days are normal
for anyone owning a 24-hour
bar and guesthouse. Add in a
new partnership at Sharky’s,
and the days are very long
and very busy. But Jim is not
complaining. “I enjoy what I
do,” he says. “It’s all about
making great connections
between my clients.”
For his new location Jim saw
the property formerly known as
the Woolly Rhino at 79 Sisowatch Quay as having potential
for attracting both tourists and
expats. “When we closed for
renovation, I wanted to come
back stronger than before,” Jim
states. “People now expect
more. California 2 has always
been a place for good value,
and we still provide that.”
No 24-hour establishment
would be complete without
some munchies, and California 2 comes through with
some solid bar cuisine. The
establishment has always
been famous for its Fish
Tacos, which Jim claims he
brought to Cambodia.
A glimpse behind the bar reveals a well-stocked collection
of bottles. The cocktail menu
is the same – nothing fancy,
just the basics. And while you
won’t find organic fruit infused
martinis with essence of homemade bitters, California 2 does
stock all top-shelf brands.
So when you order a gin and
tonic, the bartender reaches
for the Bombay Sapphire, not
a cheap hangover-inducing
replacement. It is all part of the
solid value that Jim provides
to all of his clients. With strong
cocktails and $0.75 ice-cold
beers, it is no wonder California 2 has a history of success.
California 2, 79 Sisowath
Quay. Tel: 077 503 144.
Fine Wine Boutique
& Tasting Gallery
15Eo – 17Eo
Street 240
Phnom Penh
Cambodia
023 990 951
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 47
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Rising Sun
20 Street 178, Tel: 012 970 719
English-style pub with reliable breakfast,
meat pies and hamburgers. Has a regular
following around the bar at night especially on Fridays. Great posters of British films
and TV classics adorn the walls. Ideal for
that touch of nostalgia and the fish and
chips are good, although not wrapped in
newspaper. Open 7am to 10pm.
No Holds Barred
Zeppelin Bar
109C Street 51, Tel: 012 881 181
If you like your music heavy then this
is the bar for you. Over 1,000 vinyl
albums played by stone-faced DJ
owner. New location is next to Walkabout. Unique for Phnom Penh. Open
4pm to late.
Rory’s Irish Pub
33 Street 178, Tel: 012 425 702
Most Irish of the Irish bars in town with
the barmaids dressed in emerald green.
Good place to talk to local expats or try
the Irish stew. Open 7am to midnight or
2am at weekends.
gay
Blue Chilli
36 Street 178
This welcoming bar run by Thai national Oak
is probably the number one gay bar in town
currently. Chic décor makes this one of the
coolest bars in town and the drag shows on
Friday and Saturday are an additional draw.
Rubies
Cnr. Street 19 & 240, Tel: 012 823 962
Small corner wine bar with warm wood
panelled interior and loyal following.
Happy Hour from 5.30pm to 7.30pm.
Open 5.30pm til late, closed Mondays.
Saffron
11 Street 278, Tel: 012 247 832
Pakistani and Middle Eastern café,
restaurant and wine bar. The curries are
excellent and not too spicy, and come
with a range of breads and chutneys. The
wines have a bias towards the antipodes,
including possibly the best range of wines
by the glass in town. Open 11am to
11pm. 02 A/C
And the winner is? ...Walkabout
bars is set on the first floor with countless
pool tables and a large balcony to look out
over the street. Guaranteed to be lively, a
place where anything can happen. Serves
surprisingly good food, especially the
Mexican. Open 4pm to 2am. A/C
Scoop Bistro Bar
2-6A Regency Square, Mao Tse Tung
Blvd., Tel: 023 216 130
Elegant, chic bistro with a simple, yet refined
black and white design with comfortable,
high-backed dining chairs providing seclusion from other diners. Slightly raised lounge
area is ideal for cocktail or coffee. Has
three private rooms. Open from 11.30am
to midnight, closed Sundays, reservations
recommended. A/C
Talkin to a Stranger
21B Street 294
Elegant bar with nice gardens set in the heart
of BKK1. Excellent place for post-work drinking
or indulging in their vast array of cocktails. One
of the few places in town putting on events
and live music. Has a trivia quiz every second
Tuesday. Don’t be a stranger. Open 5pm to late
Sunday- Friday. Closed Saturday.
Sharky Bar
126 Street 130, Tel: 023 211 825
Biggest and most famous of Phnom Penh’s
The Chinese House
128 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 356 399
Totally decadent cocktail bar set in beauti-
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Velkommen Inn
23 Street 104, Tel: 092 177 710
Hotel restaurant and bar off the riverfront
offers a wide selection of western dishes
as well as several Scandinavian specialities with a full bar, draught beer, wine
and sprits. Open 7am till late. A/C
ful old Chinese house. The ideal place for
a drink before or after dinner.
The Winking Frog
128 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 356 399
Large air-con British-run pub with live band
at weekends, including karaoke on Saturdays. Thai Chef preparing pub grub, Thai
and Khmer food and large slate, 9-ball pool
table at the back, this place offers something
for everyone. Has a 31-room guesthouse
upstairs. Open 24 hours. A/C
TWG Tea Shop
Amanjaya Hotel, 1 Street 154 &
Sisowath Quay
30 types of beautifully packaged loose
and bagged teas, as well as six different
types of flower teas. Also retails cups
and teapots
Classic
42 Street 19
Very Khmer bar that has nightly drag
shows, after which the dance floor fills
up with all-comers.
Green Garden
40 Street 222
Most recent gay bar in the Penh has an
outdoor bar and seating space that would
be perfect for a BBQ. Also offers WiFi.
Heart of Darkness
38 Street 51
The most famous of the city’s nightspots
with a good-sized dance floor started off
as a gay bar. Has well priced spirits and
mixers and is totally packed out on Friday
and Saturday nights. The dance floor is a
popular gay haunt. Open 8pm to late. A/C
Salt Lounge
217 Street 136
In addition to being Phnom Penh’s first
openly ‘gay’ bar, it has one of the most
bar stool
Darren Gall: 2010
Through the
Looking Glass
2009 has been a year of seismic shifts for the global wine industry, as the year snuffs itself out it’s time to look at some of those
changes and how they will affect the way we drink in 2010.
Rising Tiger
In 2009 China and Russia
entered the top 10 wine consuming nations in the world
for the first time. Hong Kong
also replaced London as the
second largest wine auction
market in the world after New
York. For the rest of us, this
means that the world’s most
sought-after wines are still going up in price and allocations
are rarer to get your hands on.
Millennials
The new wine drinkers of today, born from 1970 through
to the early nineties, are the
‘next generation’ that has
arrived at legal drinking age.
Much of the growth in US
wine consumption is being
driven by these so called Millennials, with their facebook
wine clubs and live ‘twitter
tastings’ online, they are
discovering wine in record
numbers. Wines are now being marketed, packaged and
even conceived to target this
consumer segment.
Too Much of a
Good Thing
Wine production is still out
of balance with consumption
around much of the world
– Australia is in chronic oversupply. Expect to see some
good clearance bargains
from many of the regions
over the coming months,
particularly from the southern
hemisphere where wine
tanks have to be emptied out
before the coming vintage.
Viva Latina
South American wines
continue to set record growth
in global wine exports and
dominate the value end of the
global wine market. Chile and
more recently Argentina have
become well established in
international markets, but
look out for Brazil, which will
soon enter exports markets
in a serious manner.
Turning up the Heat
The effects of global warming have sent trembles
throughout the wine industry.
Annual temperature rises
of even a few degrees will
totally change the face of
the world of wine – regions
and countries once too cold
to grow wine grapes would
become attractive, whilst
some of the most famous
wine regions in the world
would be rendered too hot to
produce quality table wine.
So, if you see a wine scribe
walking down the street
donning a sandwich board
with the words, ‘The end is
nigh’ emblazoned across it,
wait till he marches past and
take note of the message
on the other side, ‘Drink up
whilst its cheap!’
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Pontoon will resurface sometime soon,
maybe even by the time you read this
magazine. Having already sunk once,
maybe we should rename the popular
expat dance venue – Titanic. Owners
are staging some events near Central
Market during the hiatus.
bar stool
contemporary designs in town and the
best cocktails. Has recently become
a bit of a pick-up joint with ‘boys’
hanging about outside, consequently
tends to be shunned by the gay expat
community. A/C
Nightclubs
Riverhouse Lounge
6 Street 110,
Tel: 023 220 180
The alternative dance venue for both
expats and young Khmers. Self-contained air-con dance room and great
balcony to chill out.Monday night is
Retro, Thursday is House and Hip hop
is on Tuesday and Friday. Open 4pm to
2am. A/C
Heart of Darkness
38 Street 51
The most famous of the city’s nightspots
with a good-sized dance floor make this
the in-place in town. Has well priced
spirits and mixers and is totally packed
out on Friday and Saturday nights. Open
8pm to late. A/C
Memphis Pub
3 Street 118,
Tel: 012 871 263
The only permanent rock venue in town
with a house band that plays covers.Band
plays from 10pm til 1.30am, later at weekends. Also has open mike sessions on
Mondays. Open from 8pm til late, closed
Sundays. Buy-1-get-1-free on cocktails
everyday from 2pm to 10pm. A/C
Club White
305 Mao Tse Tung Boulevard
opposite InterContinental Hotel,
Tel: 013 994 483
Brandishing itself as the future of clubbing
in Cambodia, this upper class club is the
latest addition to the Phnom Penh scene.
White and modern, it attracts the Penh’s
local movers and shakers with a penny
to spare. Open 7 nights a week from
8pm until late, the Bangkok-linked club
hosts international DJs belting out hip
hop, house and other party tunes. Every
second Saturday of the month is a special
club night. A/C
Pontoon Club Lounge
Time will tell?, Tel: 017 682 071
Phnom Penh’s only floating club, vanished without trace just before the 2009
Water Festival. Rumours have it that
Sudoku Answers
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Gwan Ching Lee
1
We can’t give you a puzzle
without providing the
answers. So here is the
completed puzzles from this
month’s issue of AsiaLIFE.
Super Crazy Easy
1) The Cancan 2) Lambeth Walk 3) Hot Stuff 4) Salome 5) Penguins
6) The Hakka 7) Foxtrot 8) Bruce Lee 9) Samba 10) Ballroom 11)
Gone with the Wind 12) Snowie 13) Jimmy White 14) The Perfect
Storm 15) Sunny Afternoon 16) Sonny 17) Deacon Blue 18) Play
Misty for Me 19) The Lightning Seeds 20) Oz 21) Necessity 22)
Motherboard 23) Janet Leigh 24) Paula Yates 25) Anne Boleyn 26)
T’Pau 27) Oedipus 28) Carrie Fisher 29) Polish 30) Frank Zappa
Pub Quiz Answers
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50 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
ISSUE37
English Pub
& REstauRant
Great British Food
Served All Day.
‘Apsara’ and ‘lap dance’ – words you never thought you’d hear
together? Kate Liana gives it a whirl.
Good Music,
Great Mixed Drinks,
& Some of the
Coldest Beer in Town!
#20 Street 178 Tel: 012 970 718
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Before you get all
excited, this drink does not
come with a performance,
though my male companions
begged me to give our waitress a full demonstration. I
tried in vain to explain this traditional western art, but she
did not grasp the concept.
Or maybe she just thought it
was batty. For US$4.50 you
can experience this cultural
smash-up for yourself. What
exactly is this thing?
Two shots of Stoli vodka,
cointreau, pineapple juice,
lime and a splash of grena-
Open from 7am!
dine, shake it vigorously over
ice and strain. The liquid is
a deep, luscious magenta,
served on the rocks with
fresh watermelon garnish.
The lime keeps it icy fresh
and tangy. Pineapple and
grenadine fight for the spotlight. Each contributes a nice,
fresh sweetness. Given the
healthy dose of alcohol, too
many of these and you’ll be
up on the table, doing your
own little dance.
The Apsara Lap Dance @
the Riverhouse Lounge, 6
Street 110
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 51
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Cocktail of the Month:
Apsara Lap Dance
scrapbook
scrapbook
@Rubies
@FCC
@T3 Club
@Darlin Darlin
@Riverhouse
@Naga - Torres Party
@Talkin’ to a Stranger
@Platinum Club
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52 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
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@Phnom Penh Photo Fest
@Do It All Bar
@Java
@Chinese House
@Naga - Torres Party
@French Cultural Centre
012009
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 53
kaleidoscope
kaleidoscope
Singing Pirates of the Mekong
They may only be in it for the fun, but almost a year and half after formation the Mekong Pirates have
proved themselves to be one of the most professional bands in town. Words by Nora Lindstrom.
Nobody makes a bigger splash in the Penh than the Mekong Pirates
Back after a six-month
hiatus, the Mekong Pirates
showed last month that they still
have what it takes to get Phnom
Penh grooving. Armed with five
new original songs, the band had
the crowd heaving at a recent gig
at the Chinese House, with some
of the audience even spilling out
onto the street.
“It was our first gig for a long
time, and the ambience was great,
it was a really great party,” says
drummer Michel Ghigo. He is
one of the original members of
the band, which was formed in
September 2008 following the
split-up of a previous ensemble.
The name was a group effort.
“We actually spent a few days on
it,” says Michel. “We had many
suggestions but time after time
Mekong Pirates came up.” The
name stuck, though Michel notes
that dressing up as pirates for gigs
is completely optional.
The intention now, as then, is
simply to have fun. “We all work
here and want to play as a hobby
after work, to balance our lives
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54 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
ISSUE37
here,” Michel explains. When the
Pirates first came together there
were only a handful of members, but with time the group
has expanded. Now audiences
can listen to as many as a dozen
pirates on stage.
Sporting a long, plaited
beard, the band’s keyboardist
and occasional clarinet player
Regis is the real pirate of the
band, according to Michel.
“Twelve people being together
is not easy, so we need to train,”
Regis notes. The group rehearses
once a week, the band members
so committed to their art that
they even get together at odd
hours in the late evening.
Though finding a rehearsal
time suitable to all may be a challenge, having so many musicians
together has its advantages.
“With twelve you have a real
mix of inspiration,” says Michel.
He describes how new songs
are born through a collaborative effort where each member
contributes their own art to the
initial melody. “It’s very friendly,
everyone can bring what they
want,” he says, adding that
having a few more experienced
musicians on board helps in finetuning the songs.
“It’s difficult to say what kind
of music we play,” says Michel.
“It’s a sort of Khmer-French
reggae.” All of the band’s songs
are originals, save for one or
two Manu Chao covers. Most
are sung in French, with some
tunes in Khmer, mainly thanks
to the band’s Cambodian singer
Srei Mom. “It’s good to have a
Khmer voice for the balance,”
says Michel.
So far the band has played at
a variety of locations, including
the FCC, Gasolina, Equinox,
Wat Botum Park, Abacus in Siem
Reap and a street festival in Kampong Saum. In addition to the
recent gig at the Chinese House,
Michel considers the gig at Wat
Botum late last year opening for
French band Ceux Qui Marchent
Debout as the most memorable.
“The place, the light, the sound,
the smoke... that was special,” he
says, adding that he would love
to play on top of Bokor Mountain in the future.
Seldom has a gig by the
Mekong Pirates failed to attract
a crowd, and Regis says many
have suggested the band make
an album. The group has already
experimented with recording
some of their songs at the CCF’s
cinema, but the studio conditions
were not good. “If someone gives
us money then we can find time
to make a record,” he says.
Others have suggested the
band go on tour, but both Michel
and Regis seem uncertain as
to whether this is the way they
want to go. “It’s all just for fun,”
Michel emphasises, adding that
members of the band get together
outside of rehearsal hours too.
“It’s quite rare really for
such a big group to get along,”
Regis notes. Thankfully for the
audiences they do, and on stage
exude a joy of playing that is
utterly contagious.
The Mekong Pirates will play
the FCC on Jan. 16.
kaleidoscope
Bootleg
AsiaLIFE’s Simon Jacy jumps into action.
The Boat That Rocked
(2009, Richard Curtis)
The Boat That Rocked harks back
to the days when a stiff upper lip
Britain was still mourning the loss
of its empire, and the green shoots
of ‘yoof’ culture were hesitantly
emerging from the rubble of England’s collapsed global ambitions.
The story, loosely based on that of
Radio Caroline, a pirate station set
up in the mid-1960s on a former
Danish passenger ferry, is a classic
rehash of boring authoritarianism
versus chaotic Carpe Diem. Carl
(Tom Sturridge) arrives on the
pirate radio ship, Radio Rock, after
being sent to stay with the ship’s
Captain, his godfather, Quentin
(Bill Nighy), to hopefully set his life
on a different track after being expelled from school. Here he meets
Radio Rock’s crew of ramshackle
disc jockeys, including The Count
(Philip Seymour Hoffman), Dave
(the British comedic mainstay Nick
Frost) and Simon (Chris O’Dowd
from the IT Crowd). A government
minister, Dormandy (Kenneth
Branagh), and his subordinate
Twatt (Jack Davenport) try to put
a dampener on the station’s fun.
There are some funny moments,
and the film is watchable but
ultimately lacks a coherent story. A
pleasant enough meander.
2012
(2009, Roland Emmerich)
2012, a film about the greatest
disaster to ever befall the earth, is
ironically one of the greatest disasters to hit modern cinema. A nearstar cast of B-listers, John Cusack,
Chiwetel Ejiofor, Danny Glover
and Thandie Newton realize that
the Mayans had it right all along
with their Mesoamerican Long
Count calendar, which predicts an
apocalypse in 2012. Quite how
such primitive society was able to
make such a massive step of inductive logic is left unanswered, but
such oversights are the least of this
turkey’s shortcomings. Driven by
massively overwrought CGI special
effects, 2012 completely lacks any
shred of character development, the
people just horrified marionettes to
be pushed through an increasingly
far-fetched series of escapes. The
solar flare bombardment theory
is ridiculous even for the most
ignorant of viewers, and only the
worst director could make watching a plane narrowly escape being
crushed by falling buildings boring
enough to want the lead characters
to die. Terrible.
Army of Darkness
(1993, Sam Raimi)
Bruce Campbell stars as the smartmouthed hero Ash Williams, who
in this third film finds himself in
the Middle Ages where he must
battle the undead in his quest to
return home. The film, directed
by Spider Man’s Sam Raimi, and
written by Raimi and his brother
Ivan, is not as violent or gory as
the prior Evil Dead films, relying
more on slapstick. The mixture of
wise cracks, comedy horror and
low-budget special effects—along
with the hero’s arrogant bungling—
has brought the film a strong cult
following: Roaring latex monsters,
cackling hags, pop-up skeletons,
ketchup blood and bearded wizards
abound in this tongue-in-cheek
romp. Those expecting an intelligent, layered feature will be sorely
disappointed, but for as an enjoyable pantomime, Army of Darkness
is hard to beat.
012009
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 55
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Arts Diary
Arts & Events
Film
Music & Parties
the first stop for a bit of culture ...
2 Saturday
JURAM @ CHOW, 8pm
Sunday17
Wednesday
What the Bleep do we
Know? @ Meta House, 7pm
10 Sunday
Akira Kurosawa’s ‘Ran’ @
Meta House, 7pm
Oliver Stone Meets George
W. Bush @ Meta House, 7pm
No Country for Old Men @
Meta House, 7pm
19 Tuesday
12 Tuesday
Lost Children in Uganda @
Meta House, 7pm
“Film-making and Peacebuilding” by Oliver Stone,
2pm, University of Cambodia
3 Sunday
The Rainbow Troops @ Meta
House, 7pm
5 Tuesday
Behind the Burmese
Bamboo Curtain @ Meta
House, 7pm
6 Wednesday
The Private Life of a Butcher:
Idi Amin’s Self-Portrait @
Meta House, 7pm
Exhibition Opening – A Good
Friend is Hard to Find @ Meta
House, 6pm. An intimate look
at the works of the late Ingrid
Muan and the late Svay Ken.
Kampuchea – Death and
Rebirth @ Meta House, 7pm
Young and Restless in China
@ Meta House, 7pm
14 Thursday
15 Friday
8 Friday
Punk’s Not Dead – Degeneration Punk @ Meta House,
7pm
Meta House 3rd Anniversary
Party! 6pm
Dj Jimmy Salsa @ Talkin to a
Stranger, 9pm
JURAM @ CHOW, 8pm
Saturday
9 Saturday
Moving in to Feeling @ Meta
House, 7pm. New Khmer
Dance Performance
‘How Do You Sound’ @ Meta
House, 7pm. New Khmer
Dance Performance
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56 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
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Sita Sings the Blues @ Meta
House, 7pm
21 Thursday
13 Wednesday
Rise Up! @ Meta House, 7pm
7 Thursday
20 Wednesday
16
MEKONG PIRATES @ FCC, 9pm
Sonic Experiments from
Cambodia and Jamaica @
Meta House, 7pm
22 Friday
Meet the Messenger Band @
Meta House, 7pm
23 Saturday
White King, Red Rubber & Black
Death @ Meta House, 7pm
Bad Neighbours @ FCC, 9pm
Sunday24
The Incredible Breakdance
Phenomena: ‘Planet B-Boy’
@ Meta House, 7pm
27
28 Thursday
Exhibition Opening – Soe
Naing @ CCF, 7pm. Burmese
painter, Soe Naing
Exhibition Opening – The
Soliloquy of a Deaf Mute
@ CCF, Cambodian Artist,
Chath Piersath
Stories of the Living and the
Dead @ Meta House, 7pm
29 Friday
Green House Effect @ Meta
House, 7pm. Lectures, films
and prizes.
30 Saturday
My Gay Life: Queer Worlds
in Cambodia and Taiwan @
Meta House, 7pm
GREASE night at FCC!!
31 Sunday
Australia @ Meta House,
7pm
Meta House 02
6 Street 264 Tel: 012 607 465
Movie shorts and documentaries from
Cambodia and the rest of Asia. All movies
start at 7pm, closed Mondays.
Galleries
Asasax
192 Street 108 Tel: 023 217 795
Shop and gallery space devoted to Cambodian artist Asasax, just across from the
National Museum.
Art Café 06
84 Street 108 Tel: 012 834 517
Elegant bistro and art gallery in the style
of a European coffee house with rotating
exhibitions. Music played Friday to Sunday. Open from 11am to 11pm.
Bophana Audiovisual Resource
Centre 03
64 Street 200, Tel: 023 992 174
As well as preserving much of Cambodia’s audiovisual material, has regular
exhibitions. Open from 8am to 6pm Mon.
to Fri., 2pm to 6pm (Sat.).
Dori Thy Gallery
9 Street 278 Tel: 012 661 552
Features the black and white photographs of
German photographer, Doris Boettcher. Open
every Saturday & Sunday from 10am–6pm.
Equinox 07
3A Street 278,
Tel: 012 586 139 or 092 791 958
Cool French-run restaurant and bar has art
exhibitions each month. Open 7am to late.
FCC Phnom Penh 22
363 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 724 014
Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has a
permament, rotating exhibition devoted to
photography. Open 7am to midnight.
French Cultural Centre 04
218 Street 184 Tel: 023 213 124
Large space in the grand floor of the cultural centre has changing exhibitions and
hosts special talks and events. Second
gallery space is on the opposite side of
the road by Café du Centre.
Happy Painting Gallery 23
FCC
Open since 1995, this air-con art shop
sells the colourful and positive works of
iconic artist Stef. Accepts all major credit
cards. Open from 8am to 10pm.
Hen Sophal Gallery
39C Street 178
Gallery devoted to the works of the Cambodian artist open from 7am to 7pm.
Java Café & Gallery 01
56 Sihanouk Bvd.,Tel: 023 987 420
www.javaarts.org
Contemporary art gallery with regular
exhibitions of Cambodian and international artists. Website has details about
Cambodia’s contemporary art scene.
Meta House 02
6 Street 264,Tel: 012 607 465
Multimedia arts centre on three floors
has regular exhibitions, interviews with
filmmakers and short films. Open Tues. to
Sun. 2pm to 10pm.
Mutrak Gallery
409 Street 246,Tel: 012 294 731
Gallery featuring the works of Cambodian
artist Leang Seckon, viewing by appointment only.
New Art Gallery
20 Street 9, Tel: 012 824 570
More art shop that does framing than gallery, it does have occasional exhibitions.
Pich Sopheap
24 Street 80, wwwsaklapel.org
Lakeside studio of the Khmer artist, viewing is by appointment only.
Reyum Institute of Arts & Culture 27
47 Street 178, Tel: 023 217 149
Small gallery with regular exhibitions
of Cambodian artists. Part of an NGO
established to preserve traditional and
contemporary Cambodian arts.
Sa Sa Gallery
7 Street 360, Tel: 011 936 855
Gallery inside Baitong Restaurant devoted
to the works of Cambodia’s Art Rebels
(Stiev Selapak).
Scan Gallery
4 Street 282, Tel: 023 214 498
Contemporary art gallery within boutique
hotel close to Wat Lanka. Open from 7am
to midnight.
The Mansion
(Sino-Khmer Residence) 28
Sothearos Blvd. (opposite the National
Museum), Tel: 023 724 014
Latest project from the FCC Group, this
beautiful, derelict French colonial building
has been converted into a venue for
occasional exhibitions and parties. Walk
into the building and wander around for a
taste of what the Penh used to be like.
The Chinese House 16
128 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 356 399
Cocktail bar set in beautiful old Chinese
house has revolving exhibitions on the
ground floor.
Performing Arts
Amrita Performing Arts
128G9 Sothearos Blvd.,Tel: 023 22 0424
www.amritaperformingarts.org
Performance art company that puts on
contemporary and classical music, dance
and theatre.
Apsara Arts Association
71 Street 598,Tel: 011 550 302
Promotes Cambodian arts and culture.
Open from 7.30am to 10.30am (Mon. to
Sat.). Performance on request – adults
US$5, children US$3.
Art Café 06
84 Street 108 Tel: 012 834 517
Elegant bistro and art gallery in the style
of an European coffee house with music
played Friday to Sunday. Open from
11am to 11pm.
Traditionally places promote their services as being the best in
town, not so at the Tree, which claims to have the worst pool
table in the Penh. Words by Mark Jackson.
“It looks kind of nice,”
says Martin Crabtree the
owner of The Tree on Street
118, “but you’d need a map
to play it.” The Englishman
who has run several bars in
the capital over the last five
years claims that his table is
the Portsmouth Town of the
pool world.
Balls roll in strange directions, the cloth is ripped
and even the custom-made,
shortened short cues are
too long for the cramped
conditions. Still, his regular
customers are not complaining. “It’s got a bit of a cult
following,” he says in typical
deadpan. “They call it crazy
pool.” Not that Martin is
taking any risks placing a
disclaimer next to the table
informing potential players
that it is the worst in town.
Martin attributes the table’s
condition to the previous
owners. He bought it from
one of the squatter communities by the railway tracks,
while evictions were being
made as part of the lakeside
development. It had spent
a number of years suffering
from neglect in a shack.
I ask him how much he
paid for it. “100.” “100 riel?”
“No, 100 bucks,” he laughs.
“I think they saw me coming,
but I felt charitable considering they were losing their
livelihoods.” Martin is prepared to be equally generous towards the first person
who manages to clear up
from the break. “They can
have free drinks all night,” he
offers, while admitting that
such a clearance would be
a feet beyond Tom Cruise in
Mission Impossible.
Martin would like to enter a
Phnom Penh pool league, but
feels that other bars would be
scared off, fearing his team’s
unfair home advantage. ”For
pool, we are the equivalent of
what the Stiff Little Punks are
for music ,” he says referring
to the expat two-man band
that played his bar last month.
He has just one tip for
anyone that is brave enough
to take up this challenge –
“don’t play it sober.”
The Tree, 22 Street 118.
Art + Foundation
84 Street 108,Tel: 012 834 517
Organisation devoted to the performnce
of western, classical music.
Cambodian Living Arts
407 Street 246
Art organisation devoted to the revival of
traditional Khmer performaing arts. Puts
on occasional performances.
Chaktomuk Conference Hall 24
Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 725 119
Designed by master Cambodian architect
Vann Molyvann, this under-utilised building is worth a visit. Open from 7am to
11.30am and 2pm to 5pm (Mon. to Fri.).
Chenla Theatre 25
Cnr. Mao Tse Tung & Monireth Blvds.,
Tel: 023 883 050
www.culturalcenter-cambodia.com
One of the capital’s major theatres, it has
regular performances of theatre, dance
and music.
Epic Arts
1DE0 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 998 474,
www.epicarts.org.uk
Organisation that uses art to empower
people with disabilities.
Sovanna Phum Khmer Art Association
111 Street 360,Tel: 023 987 564
Theatre with performances of shadow
puppetry, classical and masked dances
every Friday and Saturday at 7.30pm.
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kaleidoscope
Cinemas
Le Cinema 04
French Cultural Centre
218 Street 184 Tel: 023 213 124
100-seat cinema shows international art
house and mainstream movies with occasional films in English. Children’s cinema
on Saturday mornings at 10am.
culture Best Kept Secret:
Crazy Pool
leisure & wellness
leisure & wellness
Fit or Fat
We all have our own way of hitting the gym, but the secret to health and weight loss is one-onone attention. Kate Liana talks with Phnom Penh’s fitness and nutrition gurus.
Keeping fit the personal weigh
Maria Ahlberg and
Frederik Carlsward ran a
successful personal training
business in Stockholm, and
have been a popular addition to the fitness scene since
their arrival. They both offer
strength and fitness training,
and Frederick specializes in
boxing and martial arts. Their
aim is to teach clients to train
safely using proper techniques.
A typical one-hour session costs
US$20 and involves cardio and
strength training with both free
weights and machines.
Since not all bodies and
lifestyles are the same, each
training and nutritional plan
is tailored individually to the
client. After assessing a client’s
fitness level, schedule, lifestyle
and diet, they construct a regime that’s easy to stick to.
The fitness duo also provide
nutrition counseling. Maria
lays the facts down cold. “You
can work out all you want, but
you will not lose weight unless
you eat properly.” According to
Frederik, people have trouble
eating healthily, and women
eat too little. “A lot of women
are afraid they’ll gain weight,
but they’re actually slowing
down their metabolism which
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ISSUE37
makes it harder to lose weight,”
he says.
They encourage people to cook
for themselves to ensure they eat
healthy, but realize that can be
time consuming. To this end,
they plan to open a restaurant
dedicated to healthy, fresh food
in Phnom Penh.
Richard Chin at Aus Fit echoes
the same sentiments. His clients
are looking to lose body fat and
tone their shape. At US$20 for a
one-hour session, Richard starts
with a cardio warm-up, then
moves to strength training with
free weights and machines. “The
more muscle you have in your
body, the more fat you burn,
even when you’re not exercising,”
he explains.
The Khmer-born trainer holds
a Bachelor’s degree in Leisure
Studies from the University of
New South Wales and worked
for 20 years as a personal trainer
in Sydney before returning to
Cambodia in 2003. His goal with
Aus Fit was to create a club where
members come to work out, socialize, swim in the roof-top pool,
relax, and network.
Richard also takes a personal
approach, and looks at clients’
diet, lifestyle, and activities. He
believes with personal training,
you build strength and stamina
more quickly, while staying motivated and challenged.
If you’ve ever longed to
emulate the actions of the Khmer
kick boxers on CTN, check out
Anthony Llamas. A recent arrival
in Cambodia, Anthony trained
in body-building and kickboxing
near Paris with world-famous
fighter Aurelien Duarte.
Anthony’s sessions are also
tailored to each individual. He
cites this as one of the many
benefits of one-on-one training
sessions. “Not only is the instruction personalized, but it gives me
the chance to focus on my clients’
techniques and fine tune their
weak spots.”
The benefits of kickboxing
are limitless. It helps improve
coordination, balance, reflexes
and reduces the effects of stress.
A minute and a half in the ring
with a trainer will leave you
sweaty and exhausted. “When
you get in the ring, you forget
all your problems,” he says. “The
catharsis and focus you have
during kickboxing is amazing.”
Anthony charges US$70 for ten,
75-minute sessions.
In contrast to the other trainers, Rama’s clients are interested
in hard-core body-building.
Though many state the same
goals of losing body fat and
toning their bodies, he trains
his clients for serious competition. The former Mr. Cambodia 1999 got his certification
at Clark Hatch Fitness Center
where he was educated in
proper nutrition, exercise and
body fitness.
“I have so many students who
say, ‘I work out all the time,
why don’t I see results?’ It’s
because they don’t know which
exercises to do and how to
train properly.” Rama’s sessions
are US$15 for one hour and
combine cardiovascular workout
with weight training.
Contact
Maria Ahlberg
and Frederik Carlsward:
Aus Fit, Clark Hatch Fitness Center, The Place, Tel: 017 693 240,
[email protected],
Richard Chin:
Aus Fit. Tel: 012 810 432
Anthony Llamas:
Aus Fit, Clark Hatch Fitness Center,
The Place, Tel: 089 494 816
Rama:
The Place, Tel: 012 859 889
amusement
Kambol Cart Raceway
Tel: 012 232 332
A few kilometers west of the airport is Phnom
Penh’s flashiest go-cart track. Boasting a
900m international standard size track complete with hairpin turns, a cart costs US$7
for a 10-minute round. The track can also be
rented by the hour, half-day or the entire day.
Parkway Square
113 Mao Tse Tung Blvd, Tel: 023 982 928
Ten-pin bowling alley with lanes costing between US$6 and US$9 per hour, depending
upon the time of day. It also has a dodgem
track, for those who haven’t had enough of
close shaves on the streets of Phnom Penh.
Phnom Penh Water Park
50 Street 110, Tel: 023 881 008
Traditional mix of slides and wave pools.
Entrance is US$2 weekdays (US$3 at
weekends). Open from 9.30am to 5.30pm.
Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park
Phnom Tamao,
44 kilometres out of the capital along
Highway 2, lies Cambodia’s best wildlife
centre. All the animals are either rescued
from traders or bred at the centre. Many
of the animals are critically endangered.
Open from 8am to 4pm.
Sorya Centre
Corner Street 63 & 142
The top floor of Phnom Penh’s original
shopping centre has a rink devoted to
roller-skating and roller-blading. Hiring the
skates or blades costs between US$1
and US$2.
beauty products
Angkor Soap
16 Street 374, Tel: 023 223 720
www.angkorsoaps.com
Specialising in handmade soaps and
natural spa products.
chemists
U-Care Pharmacy
26-28 Sothearos Bvd., Tel: 023 222 499
14 Sihanouk Bvd., Tel: 023 224 099
High quality western-style chemist and
pharmacy that sells the full range of
beauty products, including international
brands. Open 8am to 10pm.
Pharmalink
11 Street 254, 14 Street 432
20D Street 184, Tel: 023 215 727
Modern, western-standard pharmacy
on the way to the Russian Market. Staff
speak English and have a range of western products on sale. Open from 7.30am
to 8pm (Monday to Saturday).
classes
Aikido Classes
24R Street 252 (on villa rooftop),
explains the process of what is going on
with your teeth and has multi-lingual staff.
education
Tel: 012 811 234
Japanese martial art class taught by an
experienced Aikido practitioner. Monday,
Wednesday, Friday at from 7pm to 9pm.
Fee US$30/month. For further information or enrolment, please contact Olivier
[email protected]
Cambodian Cooking Class
Frizz Restaurant, 67 Street 240
Tel: 012 524 801
The first and only Khmer cooking school
for travellers and expats in Phnom Penh.
Courses cost US$20 for a full day, including transport to the market and a colourful
16-page recipe booklet.
Capoeira
Tchou Tchou preschool, 13 Street 21
Lessons in this rhythmic Brazilian cross
between dance and martial arts, costs
US$15 per month. Held every Tuesday
and Thursday from 6.30pm to 8pm.
Contact Michel on 012 458 167.
Global Art Centre
Behind house 206 Norodom Blvd.,
Tel: 012 514 790
An international art and creative program
designed for children aged 4-18. Classes
held Tuesday to Friday in the afternoon
and all day on Saturday. Courses cost
$38/month for 2 hrs lesson every week
(including books). Free trial.
Photography Tours
126 Street 136, Tel: 092 526 706
www.nathanhortonphotography.com
Weekend photography tuition and guided
tours to Kampong Chnang and Udong,
covering technical and creative considerations in the context of travel photography.
Qigong
Living Room, 9 Street 306
Qigong practice group meets every
Monday and Wednesday at 5.30pm to
6.30pm For more information contact,
Phil 012 892 249.
Scuba Nation Dive Center
18E0 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 012 715 785
Learn to scuba dive in Phnom Penh. The
academic part of the course takes place
in the Plaza Hotel pool, while the real
diving is over a weekend in Sihanoukville.
Total cost for a course is US$395.
dental
European Dental Clinic
160A Norodom Blvd.,
Tel: 023 211 363
French-run dental practice since 1994
which provides full dental hygiene services
with modern equipment. Open 8am to
12pm and 2pm to 7pm (closed Sundays).
SOS Dental Clinic
161 Street 51, Tel: 023 216 911
International quality dental clinic,
fully equipped with the latest equipment
including dental cameras. US dentist
Khmer School
for Expats and Travellers
35 Street 288, Tel: 012 867 117
Khmer-language lessons given on a oneto-one tuition basis only, costing US$10 per
hour, a typical course lasts for 30 hours.
Khmer School of Language
52G Street 454,
Tel: 023 213 047
Khmer-language lessons given at the
school for US$4 per hour or for US$5 in
the privacy of your own home or office.
All the teachers are experienced and
trained at the school.
My First Khmer
PO Box 1498,
Tel: 012 342 315
A network of university students offering
language, translation, and interpreting
services. Professional, affordable, and
experienced. Call for a free lesson.
gyms
Clark Hatch Fitness Centre
Intercontinental Hotel, 3/F Mao Tse Tung
Boulevard, Tel: 011 380 769
Well-equiped fitness centre run by a
regional gym company that even has a
rowing machine. Membership is US$90
per month or US$10 per day (US$15
at weekends). Open 6am to 10pm (weekdays), 8am to 8pm (weekends)
Fitness One
Himawari Hotel,
313 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 214 555
Small, well-equipped gym with outdoor
swimming pool. US$6 per day for use
of pool or US$10 for pool, gym, steam
room and jacuzzi. Prices rise to US$8 and
US$12 at weekends.
Paddy’s Gym
635 National Road 5,
just past the Japanese Bridge,
Tel: 012 214 940
Bearing the air of an American boxing gym,
Paddys offers an honest workout with
recently imported equipment. Good range
of free weights, boxing ring, boxing bags
and aerobics. Entrance is US$3 or US$45
per month. Open from 6am to 8pm.
Raffles Amrita Spa
Raffles Le Royal Hotel,
Street 92, Tel: 023 981 888
Modern gym and pool in Phnom Penh’s
most elegant hotel. Use of gym, pool,
sauna and jacuzzi costs US$10 weekdays (US$15 at weekends). Open from
6am to 10pm.
Physique Club
Hotel Cambodiana,
313 Sisowath Quay,
Tel: 012 810 432
Most modern of the five-star fitness centres
with reasonable selection of equipment,
although has a small changing area. Membership is currently US$56 per month or
US$7 per day. Open from 6am to 10pm.
The Gym at The Place
90 Sihanouk Blvd, Tel: 023 999 699
A brand new establishment featuring a
fully equipped gym and weekly classes
in dance, yoga and aerobics. Open
6am -10pm Mon-Fri and 8am -10pm
weekends
VIP Club
Norodom Boulevard, Tel: 023 993 535
Large sports complex with gym, outdoor
swimming pools, sauna, steam room and
tennis courts. US$6 per day for use of all
facilities, monthly membership is US$50
to US$60. Open from 6am to 9pm.
hairdressers
Arya Vong Kim
P31 Street Platinum (by Sovanna Mall),
Tel: 011 516 575
Professional beauty salon run by FrenchCambodian hairdresser Arya Vong Kim.
Mainly focuses on quality hair care,
including great cuts and colouring. The
only authorised L’Oréal Professional salon
in Cambodia. Open 9am to 8pm
De Salon Hair Spa
31D Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 023 223 938
Fancy new hair salon opened in late June
by the same group that run Nata Spa.
Eriq Amtalla
Street 268 (Sumamarit Blvd.)
Tel: 016 839 546 / 017 839 546
Unisex hairdressers is open from 9am
to 6pm (Monday to Thursday) and 9am
to 7pm (Friday to Saturday), closed
Sundays. Appointments preferred.
Hair & Nail Studio
51D Street 214, Tel: 023 992 626
Sleek new Cambodian-run beauty salon
offers quality nail care using OPI products.
Other services include hair, body and facial
treatments. Prices start from US$3 for a
haircut, going up to US$80-100 for more
specialised treatments. Open 9am to 8pm.
Image Beauty
57AEo Street 240, Tel: 012 455 239
Khmer, English and Thai speaking stylists
trained in hair, facial and nail treatment. L’oreal
Professionnel products available. Free WiFi, tea
and coffee provided. Open 9am to 8.30pm.
New Jack Holt International
38 Street 57
(at Champei Spa), Tel: 023 350 788
Contemporary hairdressers with a Frenchtrained Khmer stylist. Offers the full range of
hair treatments as well as nails and waxing.
medical
American Medical Center
Ground Floor Cambodiana Hotel
313 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 991 863
www.amc-cambodia.com
Team of international and Khmer doctors that
provide general practice services to clients,
including the American Embasy.Can arrange
emergency evacuation. 24-hour service.
International SOS Medical Clinic
161 Street 51, Tel: 023 216 911
Globally renowned provider of medical
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 59
leisure & wellness
leisure & wellness
leisure & wellness
assistance and international health care.
Team of expat and Khmer doctors offer
general practice, specialist and emergency
repatriation services. Has multilingual staff.
Members have access to SOS clinics
around the globe. Has on-site laboratory
and dental facilities. 24-hour service. Open
8am to 10pm (8am to 6pm at weekends).
Naga Clinic
11 Street 254,
Tel: 023 211 300 / 011 811 175
French-Khmer run clinic with a team of
international and Khmer doctors. Impressive range of modern facilities. Has a 24hour pharamcy on site and can perform
minor surgery. 24-hour service.
optics
Eye Care
166 Norodom Bvd., Tel: 016 556 602
Modern opticians with ophthalmologists
on hand to check prescriptions. Have an
interesting range of glasses and lenses.
Frames from under US$100.
Grand Optics
71 & 75 Norodom Bvd,
Tel: 023 213 585
Modern opticians with the latest equipment
including free computerised eye test.
Makes prescription glasses and contact
lenses at prices much cheaper than in
the West.
pools
Asia Club
456 Monivong Bvd., Tel: 023 721 766
Beautiful swimming pool tucked around
the back of Man Han Lou Restaurant
near Caltex Bokor. Use of pool is for
members only, who get a discount at
both Man Han Lou Restaurant and
Master Kang Health Care Centre.
Fitness One
Himawari Hotel,
313 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 214 555
Outdoor hotel swimming pool, gym,
steam room and Jacuzzi.
L’imprevu Resort
Highway 1, 7km past Monivong Bridge,
Tel: 012 655 440
Peaceful resort complex just outside of
the city has bungalows, tennis court,
table tennis, boules and a beautiful
swimming pool. Children for free.
Raffles Amrita Spa
Raffles Le Royal Hotel, Street 92,
Tel: 023 981 888
Attractive pool in Phnom Penh’s most
elegant hotel. Use of gym, pool, sauna
and jacuzzi. Open from 6am to 10pm.
The Billabong
5 Street 158,
Tel: 023 223 703
www.thebillabonghotel.com
Sheltered garden hotel with an excellent
outdoor swimming pool good both for
lengths and relaxation. Swimming hours
from 8am to 8.30pm.
The Club at Northbridge
1km off National Road 4, (on the way to
the airport), Tel: 023 886 012
International school has a pool for
members. Open every day, there are also
tennis courts and playground for kids.
Open Palm Studio
12 Street 101, Tel: 012 633 278
The first official Spinning facility in Phnom
Penh. Tuesdays and Thursdays at
8.15am. Call to book in advance.
VIP Club
Norodom Boulevard, Tel: 023 993 535
Large sports complex with gym, outdoor
swimming pools and tennis courts. Open
from 6am to 9pm.
spas
Amara Spa
Cnr. Sisowath Quay & Street 110,
Tel: 023 998 730, 012 873 999
Fax: 023 998 731
www.amaraspa.hotelcara.com
A unique & comprehensive Day Spa
providing a wide selection of facials,
body massages and treatments; ar-
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60 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
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ranged into four storey sophisticated
modern facility. Open from 11am to
11pm.
Amatak Spa
4 Street 228, Tel: 023 722 029
Beautiful, up-market spa set in a large
villa close to Monument Books established by Khmer beautician who used
to work at Raffles Hotel Le Royal. Open
from 9am to 10pm. Accepts visa.
Amret Spa
3 Street 57, Tel: 023 997 994 /
012 414 038
Stylish spa with treatments in individual
rooms. Also has rooms for couples with
Jacuzzi. Open from 9am to 9pm.
Aziadee
16AB Street 282, Tel: 023 996 921
Very relaxing, air-conditioned massage
parlour with individual rooms. Open 9am
to 9pm.
Bliss
29 Street 240, Tel: 023 215 754
Health spa at the back and upstairs in
this beautiful French colonial building. Have a massage, facial, body
scrub or simply wallow in the beautiful
flower bath. Open 9am to 9pm, closed
Monday.
Champei Spa & Salon
38 Street 57, Tel: 012 670 939 / 023
222 846, www.champeispa.com
Beautiful spa in the heart of Boeung Keng
Kang 1 district. Has a full range of massages and body treatments. Open from
9am to 11pm.
Derma-Care Skin Clinic
161B Norodom Blvd., Tel: 023 217 092
Staffed by two qualified dermatologists
this is not your average spa but a professional skin clinic. Offers a range of beauty treatments using American Derma-Rx
products, soft tissue augmentation,
minor dermatologic surgery, antioxidant
boosters, chemical peeling, and lipolysis,
as well as beauty treatments.
Dermal Spa
4C Street 57, Tel: 012 222 898
Spa offering beauty salon, foot massage
and body massage services. Specialises
in dermalogica skin and beauty products. Open 9am to 10.30pm
EL Skin and Wellness Centre
115E0 Street 109, Tel: 012 681 948
New salon that uses Dermalogica,
L’Oréal, Jane Iredale and OPI products
for a variety of face and body treatments.
Professional, relaxed ambience, and
opportunity for customers to sample
products before purchase. Open 10am
to 7pm.
In-Style
63 Street 242, Tel: 023 214 621
Set in beautiful villas, the lovely gardens
and revitalising café that greet your
entrance indicate that this is more than
just a spa. Full range of massages and
beauty treatments with an emphasis on
the Balinese. Open 9am to 9pm.
Master Kang Health Care Centre
456 Monivong Blvd., Tel: 023 721 765
Large health centre next to Man Han Lou
Restaurant. Offers foot massage in either
public or private rooms downstairs, with
both Chinese and oil massage upstairs.
Downstairs also has a grand piano which
is played in the evenings.
Miss Care & Spa
4B Street 278, Tel: 023 221 130
Small beauty parlour and spa set on the
Golden Street, with well-priced massages range and beauty treatments.
Monorom Massage
B87 - B91 Street 199 (near Sovanna
Mall), Tel: 017 555 778
Professional foot and body massage
parlour that offers unique fish treatment.
Also has free sauna and steam room.
Open from 10am to midnight.
Punarnava
Ayurveda Centre Spa,
Hotel Cambodiana,
313 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 012 810 432
Many people like having a footbath as part of a foot massage, but how many know that you can detox yourself at the same time?
Words by Mark Jackson.
My mother always told
me that water and electricity do
not mix. So, as I sit with my feet
in a basin of water while the
technician drops the transformer in, I feel some trepidation. A
contact is strapped to my wrist
and some salt is added to the
water. No, this is not the latest
Pentagon-approved interrogation technique, but a detox
bath. My technician turns on
the switch and tells me to keep
my feet still for 30 minutes.
Invented by an American
doctor called Rife, the detox
head removes toxins, heavy
metals, free radicals, and yeast
from the body, by eliminating
positive ions. Manufacturers
claim that the body’s cells can
become two years younger
from just one treatment. The
different colours the water
turns reflect which organs
are most affected and which
toxins are being expunged.
The salon’s owner, Jerry
Koh, has imported the machines from his native Singapore. He joins me and has a
look at my footbath, which is
starting to change colour after
only a few minutes. He detects
“white cheese”, which supposedly indicates a high yeast content – too many beers. Gradually the water turns a brownish
colour, which corresponds to
the liver and suggests a high
environmental pollutant count,
as I’m a non-smoker.
Jerry explains there are
two ways of removing toxins
from the body. Either you
sweat them out or you eat a
lot of antioxidants. His machine is the third way. Eventually dark green appears
in the centre of the bubble
in my bath. This reflects
my cardiovascular system
– my blood stream is being
cleansed. After half an hour
the machine turns itself off
automatically and I am given
a short foot massage.
Following each treatment
you should sleep better and
your urine should be cleaner
– the latter was the case with
me. Make sure you bring
something to read while wait-
ing – and don’t look to closely
at the bath. If it looks anything
like mine it might make you
want to give up beer.
Singapore Salon Parkway,
Parkway Centre, Mao Tse
Tung Blvd., Tel: 023 690 3132.
Treatment lasts for 30 minutes
and costs US$12.
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leisure & wellness
Beauty Spot: Detox Foot Bath
leisure & wellness
Injury Recovery Times
The road to recovery takes many paths…
Everyone knows that
injuries can be very frustrating. Not only do they cause
pain and disability, but they
also result in time away
from your chosen sport,
and even work.
Once an injury occurs it
is important to get a precise
and accurate diagnosis
of the structures involved
in order to get a specific
recovery plan that will return
you to your chosen activity
without injury recurrence.
Understanding the structures involved in injury, and
how they heal, is key to understanding how to recover.
Not all injuries heal at the
same rate. The two most
important factors in injury
healing are the severity of
injury, and the actual tissue
structure involved.
Different tissues heal in
different ways and time
frames. This relates to both
the natural regenerative
capacity of the tissue, and
to the amount of natural
blood supply to that tissue.
The higher the natural blood
flow, the faster an injury will
heal. This is more important
than other factors such as
your age, or whether you are
a “quick healer”.
Muscles have a very high
blood flow and generally heal
up quickly, with partial return
to activity within a week or
two, and complete return
within a few weeks. Bone is
very similar with rapid healing in most cases. Generally
speaking, bone has the best
capacity to completely regenerate itself once damaged.
Tendons and cartilage on
the other hand have a very
poor blood supply and can
take many months to heal once
damaged. A common example
of this is “tennis elbow” – the
tendon becomes inflamed
(“tendinitis”) and then degener-
ates, causing pain and weakness. All tendons in the body
are composed primarily of thick
fibrous collagen with very few
blood vessels within the tendon
itself. The poor blood supply
hampers recovery and makes
treatment difficult. Medications
rely on blood delivering them to
the tissues, as does the body’s
natural healing mechanisms.
Free skin consultation every Monday and Tuesday
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Tendon injuries require
careful and elaborate
rehabilitation programs that
are designed to regenerate
damaged tendon without
aggravating or overloading
them. Many therapeutic
modalities are employed to
try and recover from these
injuries, ranging from antiinflammatory medication, to
physiotherapy, injections,
or surgery.
Cartilage, particularly
articular cartilage (joint
surface cartilage) is the tissue least capable of healing
itself naturally. It has almost
no blood supply at all and
thus its natural ability to
regenerate once damage is
severely limited.
There are many effective
treatments for managing
sports injuries, but no single
treatment is wholly effective
in every situation, and many
treatments are inappropriate. However, RICE (Rest,
Ice, Compression, Elevation)
is universally accepted as
the most effective immediate
treatment of any injury to any
tissue until a more definitive
assessment and treatment
plan can be obtained.
Dr Elise Reid is a specialist
in Sports Medicine at the International SOS Clinic in Phnom
Penh. She has a Masters
degree in Sports Medicine and
a degree in Medicine. Prior to
coming to Cambodia she was
a sports doctor for Essenden
AFC. SOS Clinic. 161 Street
51, Tel: 023 216 911.
Sawasdee Massage
6B Street 57, Tel: 023 996 670
Oil, Thai-style and foot massage are available from trained masseuses in this excellent
parlour, which also does beauty treatments.
For a few dollars more than the dorm-style
mattress massages, you can have the privacy of your own room. Open 9am to 11pm.
Seeing Hands Massage
6 Street 94, 209, 246, 253 Street 53
Tel: 016 856 188
String of massage parlours where the
service is provided by the blind at a very
reasonable price. Open 9am to 7pm.
Shiatsu-Ya
37B Street 306, Tel: 023 994 777
Excellent shiatsu massage by qualified practitioner given in basic surroundings. Costs
US$20 per hour. Open from 9am to 12pm,
and 2pm to 8.30pm, Tuesday to Sunday.
The Spa at NagaWorld
Hun Sen Park, Tel: 023 228 822
This luxurious spa promises to bring the
ancient Cambodian spa therapy to the world,
and claims to be the only all-suite unisex spa
in Cambodia. Therapy rooms with sauna,
steam and flower bath are inviting, and the spa
uses Tomichik flowers as part of its treatment.
sports general
Cambodian Federation of Rugby
cambodianfederationofrugby.com
Proper 15-a-side rugby league with
four senior teams as well as kid’s touch
and women’s rugby teams. Contact
Larry at [email protected] for
more details.
Cambodia Golf & Country Club
Route 4, Tel: 023 363 666
International standard, 18-hole golf course.
Cricket
Infrequent fun games played at a
school off Street 360, near Street 63, on
Sunday mornings. No equipment required
and little prior knowledge of the rules is
also ok. Contact Majid at Saffron Wine
Bar on 012 247 832.
leisure & wellness
Traditional Indian-style Ayurveda massage
and healing that can provide relief to a
range of physical ailments. All staff are
professionally trained.
Football: The Bayon Wanderers
www.bayonwanderers.com
Mixed Khmer and western team. ‘Training
sessions are held at the City Villa court
on Wednesday and Friday, 8-10 pm and
at the Old Stadium on Tuesday from 4.30
pm until dark. Contact Billy Barnaart on
012 803 040.
Hash House Harriers
The Hash meets at the railway station
every Sunday at 2:15pm. An ideal way to
see the countryside either walking or running, and then to make a public (school)
exhibition of yourself. Contact 012 832
509 for details.
Nataraj Yoga Center
No. 52, street 302, (bet. 63 and
Monivong)., Tel 855 12 250 817,
www.yogacambodia.com
Classes daily: Yoga, Pilates, check website for schedule and prices.
Royal Cambodia
Phnom Penh Golf Club, National Road 4
The other international standard golf course.
Touch Rugby
Mixed touch rugby (touch football) is
played most Saturday afternoons at 3:30
pm at Northbridge School. Tournaments
also within SE Asia. Please contact Rowena ([email protected]) 012
1896786, or Paul 012 516460
tennis
The Club at Northbridge
1km off National Road 4, Tel: 023 886 012
Excellent tennis court. Book in advance.
VIP Sport Club
Norodom Boulevard,
Tel: 023 993 535
Courts are available for hire by the hour or
for mewmbers.
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next generation
The Week from Hell
Who do you call when the tummy bugs bite? Words by Zoe Daniel.
There’s nothing worse than seeing your baby suffer
It’s 2am and Phnom Penh
has wound down for the evening.
The streets are dark and quiet,
apart from the odd tuk-tuk transporting straggling tourists back to
their hotels. One by one the last
of the lights have winked out.
But in the clinic where I sit
with my son, the lights will
burn all night. He’s finally asleep
against me, his hair flopping over
his pale face as he breathes softly.
Exhausted but sleepless, I wonder
worriedly if the ordeal is over.
Months before, back in Australia, we had carefully considered the down sides of moving
to Cambodia and exposing our
children to all sorts of germs
and diseases that we don’t have
to worry about at home. Being
pre-kids veterans of Africa, we decided that we could manage the
risks of moving to a developing
country with a two-year-old and
a five-month-old baby.
We’d escaped malaria and
dengue in far worse environments, we’d been jabbed with
every possible inoculant, and we’d
be cautious. For nine months we
survived with nothing but a few
bouts of funny tummy.
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But then, one Saturday afternoon, in the middle of lunch, the
vomiting began. In Cambodia,
food borne illness is a part of
life. Even the locals get sick. Poor
growing conditions, bad handling, lack of refrigeration and
the tropical climate all combine
to increase the risk.
So for months I’d cleaned
our vegetables in purple wash,
instituted a strict regime of hand
washing and food handling, and
peeled everything in sight. Perhaps we’d dropped our guard?
I still can’t pinpoint the cause
but our little boy began vomiting
that Saturday afternoon, and he
didn’t stop. Drugs and a visit to
the clinic didn’t help. By Monday
he was limp, dehydrated and attached to a drip at SOS.
This brings me to my vigil of
self-recrimination in the small
hours, as the lights winked out all
over the Penh. All parents ache
when their children are sick. In this
case, to see his little body struggling to purge the bug was just
plain awful. Then to see this normally wildly active two-year-old,
limp and staring, and then passed
out was downright terrifying.
I had to ask myself the question – is it right to have the
children here? Is it plain old
selfish to drag them along on our
adventures, and to put them at
risk in the process? What are they
actually getting out of it?
As he tossed and turned that
night, he’d occasionally half wake
as the drip tube tugged on his
arm. “I want to go home now
please Mummy,” he’d repeat. But
where is that? At less than three
he’s had four houses in three cities and countless hotel rooms and
serviced apartments.
We have wonderful new
friends here. But our families
are in Southern Australia, a day’s
flying away. Our old friends are
there too, and scattered around
the world. Who do you call when
all hell breaks loose?
On Day Four, our baby daughter started vomiting as well. That
was a low point and if I could
have called my Mum to come, I
would have. I have never cleaned
up so much mess, and I’ve rarely
been so tired in my life. I think it
was only the calls and texts from
friends here and the Facebook
messages from back home that got
me through – particularly when
my husband got sick as well.
It was ten full days after the
episode began when things began
to calm down. We’d all been
bombed with antibiotics and various other remedies and by then, a
few tummies were still grumbling,
but the worst had passed.
I can’t fault the extraordinary
care that we all received from the
doctors at the clinic. Visits to
check my son at 11pm, 1am, 3am
were well beyond the call of duty.
I doubt that we would have had
better medical attention at home.
A few weeks later, we’re all
back to full health and the
whole, awful episode feels like a
far distant memory. But we have
to face the fact that it could easily happen again.
The cause? Vegetables probably. The bug? Salmonella,
maybe even typhoid.
The lesson? We forget that it’s a
tough environment and we’re exposed, but we like it here. We’re
here for ourselves but we hope
our kids will learn to be tough,
feisty, tolerant and adaptable
because of it – and hopefully so
will their stomachs.
ChildSafe®
A network protecting children from all forms of
abuse. www.childsafe-cambodia.org.
cafés & restaurants
Annam
1C Street 282, Tel: 023 726 661
In addition to serving excellent Indian
food on a beautiful terracotta terrace, this
Indian restaurant also has a playroom with
a trained member of staff to ensure your
little one gets up to no harm while you eat
your chicken korma.
Café Fresco II
Cnr. Streets 51 & 306, Tel: 023 224 891
Let your children play with puzzles and
Lego on beanbags or watch films like the
Lion King looked after by a trained member of staff as you enjoy your cappuccino.
Café Living Room
9 Street 306, Tel: 023 726 139
The playroom is stocked with books,
games, wooden dollhouse and even a
rattan crib, while the kid’s menu has bitesized portions. In addition to art classes
there are plans to hold story-telling
lessons.
Java Café
56 Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 023 987 420
Kid’s menu includes chicken nuggets
and pizza bagels and there are colouring
pages and crayons to keep the kids
amused. High-chair is available on
request and baby-changing facilities are
in the toilet.
Java Tea Room
Inside Monument Books, 111 Norodom
Blvd., Tel: 092 451 462
Cheerful children’s reading room has
picture books, puzzles, art supplies and
occasional story-telling sessions. Open
from 8am to 8pm.
Le Jardin
16 Street 360,Tel: 011 723 399
This garden retreat has a great kids’ area with
playhouse and sandbox. Specialises in birthday parties, with cake, decorations, toys and
drawing materials provided for US$7 per child.
classes
Global Art Centre
Behind house 206 Norodom Blvd.,
Tel: 012 514 790
An international art and creative program
designed for children aged 4-18. Classes
held Tuesday to Friday in the afternoon
and all day on Saturday. Courses cost
$38/month for 2 hrs lesson every week
(including books). Free trial.
Khmer
Gecko & Garden Pre-school,
1 Street 282, Tel: 092 575 431
Khmer classes for children from 2.5
to 6-year-olds from 3pm to 5pm on
Wednesdays and Fridays, costs US$96.
Yoga
Gecko & Garden Pre-school,
1 Street 282, Tel: 092 575 431
Yoga lessons with Georgina Treasure for
3 to 5-year-olds from 3pm to 4pm on
Tuesdays. Drop-ins welcome (US$6)
entertainment
Kabiki Hotel
22 Street 264, Tel: 023 222 290
The first hotel designed specifically for
families, Kabiki has a salt-water swimming pool and large garden for kids to
ride around on bicycles in. Menu has
child-friendly dishes like chicken nuggets.
Swimming is free so long as you spend
US$5 in the restaurant.
Phnom Penh Water Park
50 Street 110, Tel: 023 881 008
Traditional mix of slides and wave pools.
Entrance is US$2 weekdays (US$3 at
weekends). Open from 9.30am to 5.30pm.
Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park
Phnom Tamao,
44 kilometres out of the capital along
Highway 2, lies Cambodia’s best wildlife
centre. All the animals are either rescued
from traders or bred at the centre. Many
of the animals are critically endangered.
Open from 8am to 4pm.
Sorya Centre
Corner Street 63 & 142
The top floor of Phnom Penh’s original
shopping centre has a rink devoted to
roller-skating and roller-blading. Hiring the
skates or blades costs between US$1
and US$2.
pre-schools
Gecko & Garden Pre-school
1 Street 282, Tel: 092 575 431
This not-for-profit pre-school, established
ten years ago, emphasises learning through
creative play in a supportive environment. The
Kids Club, for 18 months to 5-year-olds, is from
3.15pm to 4.45pm on Mondays, Wednesday
and Thursday and costs US$80 per child (Sep.
to Dec.). Also has yoga and Khmer classes.
Giving Tree Preschool
17 Street 71, Tel: 017 997 112,
www.thegivingtreeschool
Play-based programme in both English
and French includes storytelling, music,
theatre, role-play, dance and gym with
large outdoor play area, playground with
sandbox, and swimming pool. Takes kids
from 18 months to 5 years.
Tchou Tchou
13 Street 21, Tel: 023 362 899,
www.tchou-tchou.com
Kindergarten and pre-school for 18
months to 5-year-olds, open from
Monday to Friday from 7.30am to 12pm.
French is the main language, although
English and Khmer is also practised.
international schools
See Business Section page 76.
shops
Jolly Baby & Kids
108-110 Kampuchea Krom, Tel: 012 995 795
Wholesale and retailer store that sells
clothing and toys for children.
Farlin Showrooms
129 Monivong Bvd. 175A Mao Tse Tung
Blvd., Tel: 023 228 222 / 012 875 222
Sells a variety of imported products for babies and mothers imported from Taiwan.
Kid’s World
112 Sothearos Bvd., Tel: 012 661 168
Bright and cheery children’s store selling an
extensive range of real Lego, from small pieces up to elaborate box sets such as buildyour-own Ferraris. The store also features a
small play table. A range of baby products
under the ‘Nuk’ label are also available.
Monument Toys
111 Norodom Bvd., Tel: 023 217 617
To the rear of Monument Books is
a well-stocked toy section. It features an
excellent range of well-known board games
and toys including Barbie dolls, Transformers, Magic 8 balls and more. It has to be the
best place in the city for brand name toys and
games. Open 7.30am to 8pm.
Willi Shop
769 Monivong Blvd.,
Tel: 023 211 652
All products are imported from France,
including bébé brand baby products, the
range includes prams, baby care, cots
and toys. Open from 8am to 8pm.
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next generation
next generation guide
Plain Grey
US$12
PPSS Fashion
(Street 19)
Play Guy:
Navy Stripes
US$11
KN Shop
(Street 19)
Grey Checks
US$11
KN Shop
(Street 19)
shopping & fashion
Dark Grey Stripes
US$12
PPSS Fashion
(Street 19)
Sury by Sur:
Grey and
white stripes
US$11
KN Shop
(Street 19)
Sury by Sur: Spots
US$11
KN Shop (Street 19)
shopping & fashion
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All belts from shops in Sorya Center and
Kramas by Khmer Silk Souvenir on Sothearos Blvd. Prices vary.
Photography, Photo Art Direction, Styling
by James Grant (Slik Photography). Models
Sean Vaughan-Housman and Seang Ratana
from Sapors. Layout design Keith Kelly.
AsiaLIFE takes a big swing
and brings some knock-out
gear home for the guys.
Bring it On!!!
Let’s Get ready
to Haggle! Vintage
Wrangler Denim
from one of the
many stalls on
Street 19.
shopping & fashion
Shop Talk: Keok’jay
From Pippi-Long Stockings to Street 240, Rachel Faller has travelled a long way. The owner
of Keok’jay talks with Melissa Fisher.
Walking into the cool
shaded interior of Keok’jay, a
young woman in pleated braids
is sewing away on a round table.
It’s crowded with buttons and
odd bits of cloth. Rachel Faller
is the owner of this alternative
fashion clothing shop on coveted
Street 240. Keok’jay employees
HIV positive women to produce
bags, shirts, skirts, and other
fashionable products made with
sustainable materials.
Pushing a pile of buttons and
string aside, the 23-year-old
Bostonian relates her journey
from creating her first Pippi-Long
Stockings outfit out of a used
sweater, aged 8, to Cambodia’s
own Green Fashionista, via a
degree in conceptual art.
Two years ago, Rachel
travelled to Cambodia for the
first time with a philanthropic
mentor. They shared the idea of
starting a business employing
women with HIV, providing
them with a source of income.
When her mentor pulled out, the
future didn’t look too promising. In September 2008, she
was living off a U.S. Fulbright
scholarship that was insufficient
to cover the salaries of the local
women dependent on her for an
income. “I just had to make it
work,” she says. After attending
tradeshows in Siem Reap and
receiving individual orders, she
featured products at Artisans
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Collection on Street 240, securing additional clients.
“One day I was walking down
240 and I saw a “For Rent” sign,”
she says. “It was a big risk, but
this is a hot spot.” Through her
personal fundraising and the
shop’s new sales she is able to
keep Keok’jay operating.
For Rachel, Keok’jay is an
art project, with the goal of
transferring responsibilities to the
Cambodian staff. “I see myself
more as a community artist, not
just a designer for my own sake,”
she explains. “NGOs that try to
incorporate selling handicrafts
like hand sewn bags are cool, but
their products are not marketable. They don’t consider the
design. People should buy products because they like them, not
because they feel bad or guilty.”
In the tiny sewing room above
the shop, Rachel pulls out the
shop’s latest prints inspired by
the market – fish, bicycle wheels,
balconies, and raw scenes of new
life springing from urban decay.
“Cambodia is a great conflation of the city and the country
colliding in a beautiful way!”
she says. On a printed T-shirt,
recycled bag or skirt, Keok’jay
offers customers just that.
Skirts US$28, Shirts US$20,
belts US$10, cards US$2-8,
teddy bears US$30.
Keok’jay, 52A, Street 240, Tel:
012 904 154, www.keokjay.org
art
Happy Painting Gallery
FCC; Domestic Airport, happypainting.net
Open since 1995, these popular aircon art
shops sell the extremely colourful and positive works of iconic artist Stef. Accepts all
major credit cards. Open from 8am to 10pm.
books & cds
Carnets d’Asie
French Cultural Centre (FCC)
218 Street 184, Tel: 012 799 959
French-language bookshop that has
sections on Cambodia and Asia as well as
general fiction. Good range of French magazines and newspapers. Open from 8am to
8pm (closed Sundays and holidays).
D’s Books
12E Street 178 & 79 Street 240
Tel: 092 675 629
Over 20,000 copies. Most are second-hand,
but some are originals. Heavy emphasis
on best sellers, National Geographic pastissues and travel books. Open 9am to 9pm.
Monument Books
111 Norodom Blvd., Tel: 023 217 617
Extensive range of new English-language
books in town including recent releases and
sections on Asia, Cambodia, travel, cuisine,
design and management. Good children’s
section as well as a wide choice of magazines
and newspapers. Open from 7.30am to 8pm.
Open Book
41Eo Street 240
A welcoming reading room open to anyone to
drop in, with a good range of children’s books
in English, French and Khmer. Apart from the
library books, there’s a range of illustrated children’s books in multiple languages for sale. You
may need to ask a staff member for assistance,
as the books for sale are locked in a cupboard.
crafts & furniture
Artisans D’Angkor
Craft Centre Tel: 063 963 330
Silk Farm Tel: 063 380 375
Specialising in stone and wood carving, lacquering and silk paintings. All items are hand
made by the students at the training centre.
Both the training centre and the silk farm are
open to the public for tours and workshops.
Bazar Art de Vivre
28 Sihanouk Boulevard, Tel: 012 776 492
Elegant furniture and home fittings shop
that specialises in antique furniture, furnishings by Bloom Atelier and Cambodian
silks. French-Vietnamese owner Mai also
specialises in calligraphy and design.
Open from 9am to 6pm (closed Sunday).
Beyond Interiors
14e Street 306, Tel: 023 987 840
This interior design showroom, managed by
Australian designer Bronwyn Blue, can provide
the ultimate design solution to your interior
dilemma. All products from Thailand, Vietnam,
Indonesia and Cambodia are made with travel
in mind and have been treated to withstand
any climate. Open 7 days, 9am to 7pm
Chez l’Artisan
42D Street 178, Tel: 012 869 634
Quaint shop with high-quality wooden furniture and lampshades that also produces
made-to-measure goods on request. Just
make sure you don’t trip over the dog on
the way in. Open from 10am to 6pm.
I Ching Decor
85 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 220 873
www.ichingdecor.com
Boutique interior design shop offering
advice on architectural work and interior
design, as well as providing custom-made
furniture, home accessories, kitchenware,
lighting and bedroom suites.
Le Rit’s
14 Street 310, Tel: 023 213 160
Restaurant and boutique handicraft shop run
by the NGO NYEMO, set in a beautiful garden.
Open from 7am to 5pm, closed Sundays.
Pavillon d’Asie
24 - 26 Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 012 497 217
Antique lovers dream, with a large array of
well-restored furniture and decorative objects. Wooden cabinets jostle for space with
Buddha statues and old wooden boxes.
Upstairs are pieces from the French colonial
era. Open 9am to 6pm. Closed Sundays.
fashion
Ambre
37 Street 178,
Tel: 023 217 935 / 012 688 608
High-end fashion designs created by Cambodian designer Romyda Keth that are popular
all over the world. Beautiful colonial building
with colour-themed rooms makes the perfect
setting for the city’s most glamorous design
shop. Open 10am to 6pm (closed Sunday).
Beautiful Shoes
138 Street 143, Tel: 012 848 438
Located near Tuol Sleng Museum, this familyrun business measures your feet and designs
the shoe exactly as you wish. The shop also
caters for men. Open from 7am to 6.30pm.
Bliss
29 Street 240, Tel: 023 215 754
A beautiful colonial building houses this
exquisite shop with funky patterned cushions, quilts and an excellent clothing line.
The health spa at the back of the shop
also sells Spana beauty products. Open
from 9am to 9pm (closed Monday).
Eric Raisina
53 Veal Village, Siem Reap
Tel: 012 965 207 / 063 963 207
Accessories, home decorations, textiles
and clothing created by Malagasy-born
and French-trained designer. His amazingly vibrant designs have collected quite
a following throughout the fashion world.
Does your business need
better exposure around town?
Advertise, and put the spotlight
on your business.
Contact us at: [email protected]
or 012 960 076
www.asialifeguide.com
Jasmine Boutique
73 Street 240, Tel: 023 223 103
www.jasmineboutique.net
Established in 2001 by Kellianne Karatau
and Cassandra McMillan, this boutique
creates its own collection of designs twice
a year using hand-woven Cambodian silk.
Open 8am to 6pm.
Kambuja
165 Street 110, Tel: 012 613 586
Stylish fashion outlet with clothing designed to fuse west with east.
Keo
92 Street 222, Tel: 012 941 643
Haute couture fashion house run by Sylvain Lim, the grand master of Cambodian
fashion. Has some pret a porter too.
MDSF
71E0 Street 261, Tel: 017 467 986
www.wwp-we.org/mdsf
Small garment factory produces simple
clothes and bags. Proceeds go to support women living with HIV and their
children in Cambodia.
Mekong Quilts
49 Street 240,www.mekongquilts.org
Outlet for NGO Mekong Plus, Mekong Quilts
stocks a large range of hand-crafted bed covers, home accessories, gifts and decorations.
All the profits from the store are cycled through
Mekong Plus, which provides scholarships to
promote many health and quality of life initiatives in remote villages in Svay Rieng Province.
Open 9am to 7pm Monday to Sunday.
Promesses and Kaprices
20 Street 282, Tel: 023 993 527
Lingerie shop stocked with exclusive French &
Thai undergarments previously unavailable in
the capital. Complete with a VIP changing room
Promesses is about more than just getting that
everyday bra. Chic, new prêt-à-porter shop
Kaprices is located upstairs. Open 9am-7pm.
Sapors
11 Street 59, Tel: 012 900 470
Modelling agency, training school for housekeeping, as well as a beauty training school.
Smateria
8Eo Street 57, Tel: 012 647 061
Boutique specialising in accessories made
from recycled materials including a range of
bags and wallets made from old fruit juice
cartons, plastic bags and mosquito nets.
Stocking a full range of lingerie direct
from Australia, New Zealand & the US
including everyday bras & underwear,
maternity, strapless & sports bras,
chemise & loungewear, fashion tape,
adhesive bras and lots more.
Located at the front of U & Me Spa
#18, St.306, BKK | Tel: 092 574 342
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shopping & fashion
shopping guide
shopping & fashion
Spicy Green Mango
4a Street 278 Tel: 012-915-968
29 Street 178 Tel: 023-215-017
Now open in two locations, designer
Anya Weis offers a very different style of
clothing to any other shop in Phnom Penh
with imaginative, colourful skirts, trousers,
t-shirts, belts and shoes.
SONG
75 Street 240, Tel: 092 985 986 /
023 211 741www.songresort.com
Franchise of Vietnamese-based SONG label
owned by Keo Sophea who managed Kambuja. Features casual wear for both men and
women designed by Valerie Gregori McKenzie.
Subtyl
43 Street 240
Up-market boutique selling Cambodian
handmade women’s clothes, scarves,
shoes, bags and other accessories in
contemporary and interesting designs.
Run by French-born Sandrine and Indian
Cinni, the Subtyl collection combines
class with colour. ChilliKids children’s
clothing is also stocked at the shop.
Open 9am to 7pm.
Threads
Women’s and Men’s Clothing
Cottons and Silks
Now Selling Fair Trade
Silk Lingerie By Shenga
56 E1z Boulevard Sihanouk
Tonle Bassac, Phnom Penh
(Behind Java Café)
Sweet Soul
35E Street 288, Tel: 023 307 685
Funky hip hop boutique stocking original
brand clothes and accessories, including
Sean John, Rocawear and Supra. Mainly
for men, though some clothes for women
too. One of a kind in the capital. Open
10am to 7pm
Threads
56 E1 Sihanouk Boulevard
(behind Java Café), Tel: 012 768 248
Unisex boutique tucked away behind Java
Café that sells the designs of owner Linda.
Water Lily
37 Street 240, Tel: 012 812 469
Eclectic shop run by Christine Gauthier
selling her distinctive range of colourful
unique necklaces (US$10 to US$500),
beads, earrings, flamboyant hats (from
US$26) and bags (US$35). Open 8am to
5.30pm (closed Sunday).
Zoco
22B Street 278,
Tel: 017 755 964
Fashion boutique run by the Spanish-born
Nuria, sells dresses, skirts, bags and accessories, with dresses from US$20. Has
another store on the way to Serendipity
Beach in Sihanoukville. Two more shops in
the pipeline and a boutique in the Independence Hotel.
food
Alpine Trading
13 Street 90, Tel: 012 961 084
This quality European beer importer supplies restaurants, cafes and bars.
AusKhmer - The Pantry Shop
125 Street 105,
Tel: 023 993 859
Run by importers, AusKhmer this small
deli features a variety of modestly priced
wines, Australian beers, and shelves full
of French delicacies, cheeses, antipasti,
and cold cuts, as well as a selection
of sweets, teas, olive oils and other
neatly packaged products. Open 10am
– 6.30pm.
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Bong Karem
Tel: 092 235 336
Italian gelato delivered to your door!
Also available at Kabiki, Meta House, La
Veranda, Living Room, Cafe Yeij.
Delivery available from 12pm to 5pm.
Butcher & Co.
219 Street 19, Tel: 023 223 527
Quality French butchers in the same
building as Open Wine. The meats here
are some of the finest cuts in the city.
Camory – Premium Cookie Boutique
167 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 224 937
www.camoryfoods.com
Makes cookies using agricultural produce
from the provinces such as cashew nuts
from Kampong Cham and Mondulkiri
honey. A portion of the profits helps fund
education for a local orphanage. Open 9am
to 8.30pm.
Comme a la Maison
13 Street 57, Tel: 023 360 801
Decidedly sophisticated French restaurant
with a beautiful outdoor terrace area at the
front, yet secluded from the street. Small
delicatessen and bakery at the back of the
restaurant. Open from 6am to 10.30pm.
Dan’s Meats
51A Street 214, Tel: 012 906 072
Phnom Penh’s man of meat, Lanzi, supplies his strictly non-vegetarian products
to many of the restaurants and bars
around town. A good range of quality
products is for sale at his butcher’s shop.
Kampot Pepper Promotion Association
www.kampotpepper.biz
High quality green, black, red and white
pepper from Kampot province produced
according to traditional methods.
Kurata Pepper
Cnr. Streets 63 & 322, Tel: 023 726 480
Selling organic Koh Kong pepper and
associated products, Kurata is one of the
more unusual shops in town. Watch the
workers shift through the peppercorns in
a room near the front entrance.
Madeleines Bakery
19 Street 228 Tel: 012 988 432
A bakery and restaurant offering a
variety of baked goods as well as organic
lunches and catering services. Open
Monday to Saturday 8am to 5pm
Smokey da Boar
Tel: 012 836 442
Kiwi run wholesale butchers specialising
in sausages, ham on the bone and burger
meat. Phone orders only.
The Deli
13 Street 178, Tel: 012 851 234
Café and bakery with a good range of take
away breads, sandwiches and pastries. Now
has a second outlet on Street 51. Open from
6.30am to 6.30pm, delivery service (within
30 minutes) is only from 7am to 11pm.
Veggy’s
23 Street 240, Tel: 023 211 534
One of the few shops catering for western tastes – marmite, Branston pickle,
cereals, Barilla pasta, Lao coffee and
other expat essentials. Good range of
cheeses, salad and meats are stored in
shopping & fashion
@Bare Necessities
the walk-in cold room at the back. Open
8am to 8pm.
silks & accessories
Couleurs d’Asie
33 Street 240, Tel: 023 221 075
www.couleursdasie.net
Shop selling French-designed silk & linen
bags, scarves, cushions, pillow cases &
quilts. Has a selection of soaps and bath
salts from Senteurs d’Angkor, Amata beauty
products & Eric Raisina’s unique textiles and
clothing. Open Mon.-Sat. 9am to 7pm, Sun.
9am to 3pm.
Friends ‘n’ Stuff
215 Street 13, Tel: 012 955 722
Colourful shop with unique products designed
by Mith Samlanh/Friends students and parents
of former street kids. Range includes clothes,
necklaces, purses and 2nd hand goods. Also
has a nail bar run by students from the beauty
class. Open from 11am to 9pm 7 days.
La Clef de Sol
75E Street 108, Tel: 092 194 468
Boutique shop on the opposite La Marmite
restaurant has a good range of household
goods and home decorations, including
tablecloths, bed linen, curtains and bags.
Also does made-to-order goods. Open
Tuesday-Sunday 10am to 7pm.
Mulberry Boutique
9 Street 51, Tel: 016 222 750
Boutique silk and souvenir shop next to
Flavours restaurant in Boeung Keng Kang.
Has a wide range of quality silk products,
including bags, scarves, wall hangings
and cushion covers, as well as jewellery.
NYEMO
14 Street 310, Tel: 023 213 160
NGO handicraft store on the grounds of Le
Rit’s training restaurant. Fun, funky and a bit
different to the norm, their silks and accessories are in fantastic bright colours. Also has
a great range of children’s toys and hanging
butterfly and bird mobiles. Second outlet on
the eastern edge of the Russian Market.
Sayon Silk Works
Street 19 (behind Royal Palace),
Tel: 023 990 219, www.sayonsilkworks.com
Since 2001 self-taught Cambodian designer
Sayon has created all her own handbags,
cushions, scarves and quilts from Cambodian silk. A nice selection of goods on sale.
Open from 9am to 7pm.
Silk & Pepper
33 Street 178 & Amanjaya Hotel
Range of contemporary silk home interior
products inspired by Asian and western
designs. Sells all kinds of tailor made silks
and linens. Also sells Kampot pepper.
Open daily from 8.30am to 7pm.
Sobbhana Boutique
24 Street 144/49,
Tel: 023 219 455
A not for profit organisation founded by
Princess Norodom Marie, offering a range of
colourful, handwoven silk products. Profits
help to support local women by funding
the training, medical care and education of
weavers.
Wine
Celliers d’Asie
635 National Road 5, Tel: 023 986 350
Wine supplier with the largest quantity
of retail stock in town, the Celliers d’Asie
group has been providing wine to most of
the top hotels and restaurants in town for
over ten years.
Open Wine
219 Street 19, Tel: 023 223 527
Aircon wine shop and tasting gallery. Sells
wines, severac and calvados and meat.
Has occasional free wine-tastings.
Quarto Products
30 / 31 Street 108, Tel: 023 221 772
email: [email protected]
Fine food and wine distributors with large
range of wines from around the world. Arranges frequent wine dinners and events.
Red Apron
15 Street 240, Tel: 023 990 951
Home of wine enthusiasts in Phnom Penh
is both a wine boutique and tasting gallery. With around 300 wines the boutique
has far more range for a special occasion
than the supermarkets.
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the insider
the insider
What Has the Embassy Ever Done for Us?
To the uninitiated, life inside an embassy is shrouded with mystery and 007 spies lurking in
the shadows. Craig Gerard breaks past the fortress walls to find out what your country’s
embassy can do for you.
It is late on a Saturday
night and your tuk tuk is involved in a fairly serious accident.
While you wait for emergency
services to arrive and contemplate a trip to the hospital, you
take out your phone and start to
scroll through your programmed
numbers. Who do you call? If
you are an expat, you may call
your embassy first. It is reassuring
to hear a familiar accent on the
other end of the line. Someone
who can provide sound advice
during a stressful moment is a
valuable resource to have. But
does your embassy even know
you are here?
For most consulates, registering
is a relatively quick and painless online application, which
has many benefits and very little
downside. Usually, the system
covers all countries that you visit,
so once you have an account, you
only need to update your travel
information. Registering with your
embassy provides them important
emergency contact information,
should you require assistance.
The Discreet American
“We respect people’s right to privacy,” says Consular Chief Anita
Allegra at the U.S. Embassy in
Phnom Penh. U.S. residents registering with the State Department
can designate individuals who
are eligible to receive information
about the traveller. Nobody else
can access that information.
“Some people are hesitant to
register because they feel like the
government is keeping tabs on
them,” explains Anita, “but this
isn’t the case.” The system doesn’t
store information regarding travellers past their stated departure
date. There simply isn’t sufficient
space. However, while in Cambodia, an American registered
with the embassy will receive
email notifications with important travel news. For example,
when the airport in Bangkok was
closed for a few days in 2008,
registered travellers in Cambodia
were notified.
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Your embassy needs you!
But it isn’t all emergency and
disaster in the U.S. consular
section. Those who register at the
American Embassy will receive an
email about tickets to the community wide Fourth of July party
at the embassy. American Citizen
Services can help with a whole
host of items, including issuing
new passports, reporting on the
birth of a new child, and collecting and sending in ballots during
an election year. Appointments
can be made online, giving the
officer assisting you the chance to
gather the necessary information
before you arrive. Walk-in appointments are still available.
True Brit
British Embassies around the
world initiated LOCATE about
a year ago with the catch-phrase
– “If we can’t find you, we can’t
help you.” The worldwide online
registration system allows travellers to register their next of kin or
an emergency contact and locations where they plan to reside.
Nicola James, the Consular Section Chief at the British
Embassy here in Phnom Penh
explains that the service not only
helps inform British citizens in
Cambodia of emergencies, but
also helps families in the U.K. get
in touch with their relatives here.
“If a traveller always calls home
on Sundays, but misses a particular week, the family back home
can get nervous,” says Nicola.
“LOCATE helps our officers get
in touch with that individual to
let them know their family is trying to reach them.”
Registration on LOCATE
is good for one year. After that
time, an email is generated asking
the person to reconfirm their location or add in a new residence.
If no response is received within
a month, that account is cleared
from the system.
The British Embassy in
Phnom Penh also offers a host of
consular services, including birth
and death registration, witness
signatures, marriage affidavit and
the necessary certificate of no
impediment, as well as Khmer/
English translations.
I Come from a Land
Down Under
The Australian Embassy also
offers an online registration.
The Phnom Penh embassy’s
website is chock full of comprehensive information about
services provided (and not
provided) to Australians living
and travelling abroad.
Travel warnings, tips, bulletins, and country specific
advisories are all available on
the Smartraveller website. Visitors to the Australian Embassy
can admire the brand new
environmentally friendly building, while enjoying standard
consular assistance such as help
with changes in family size,
passport renewals and advice on
police clearances. No appointments are necessary, walk-ins
are available from 8am-5pm
Monday through Friday.
the details
U.S. Embassy website: http://
cambodia.usembassy.gov/
U.K. Embassy website: http://
ukincambodia.fco.gov.uk/en/
Australian Embassy website:
http://www.cambodia.embassy.
gov.au/
Smartraveller website: http://
www.smartraveller.gov.au/
advisory services
Alcoholics Anonymous
20B Street 286, Tel: 092 974 882
www.aaphnompenh.org
AA meets on Friday at 7pm, Wednesday
at 12pm and Sunday at 12pm.
Narcotics Anonymous
20B Street 286, Tel: 012 990 937
Meet every Monday at 8pm, Thursday at
8pm and Saturday at 7pm.
architecture & design
Architecture in Asia
Bassac Garden City,
Street E Villar E10 (off Norodom Blvd.)
Tel: 017 939 591
Architect with 15 years of experience in
interior and architectural design in Asia.
Bill Grant Landscape Design
Tel: 012 932 225
Bill is the city’s most exceptionally
talented landscape designer. Check out
gardens designed by Bill Grant at www.
landscapecambodia.com
bikes & mechanics
The Bike Shop
31 Street 302, Tel: 012 851 776
www.phnompenhbike.com
Specialises in repairing trusty steeds as
well as renting them out in the first place.
Also provides dirt bike tours.
Dara Motorbike Shop
339 Street 110, Tel: 012 335 499
More of an off-road bike specialist, which
also arranges Sunday trips into the wild.
Emerald Garage
11 Street 456, Tel: 023 357 011
Mechanics specialising in maintenance
and repair of vehicles, including oil changing and body painting. The place to go if
you want to buy a jeep.
building
Bizzy Beez
Tel: 012 755 913
Company that promotes itself as the city’s
premier handyman service. Renovations,
construction work, electrics, plumbing,
painting & landscaping, as well as general
handyman work.
business groups
Australian Business Association of
Cambodia (ABAC)
9 Mao Tse Tung Blvd, Tel: 023 215 184
www.abac.com.kh
British Business Association of
Cambodia (BBAC)
124 Norodom Blvd, Tel: 012 803 891
[email protected]
Chambre de Commerce
Franco-Cambodgienne
Office 13A Ground Floor
Hotel Cambodiana, Tel: 023 221 453
www.ccfcambodge.org
International Business Club
of Cambodia
56 Sothearos Blvd, Tel: 023 210 225
[email protected]
Canadian Trade
Commissioner Service Canadian Embassy,
9 Street 254, Tel: 023 213 470 Ext 417
www.infoexport.gc.ca/kh/
BCC / Malaysian Business Council
of Cambodia
Unit G21, Ground Floor, Parkway Square
113, Mao Tse Tung, Tel: 023 221 386
[email protected]
Singapore Business Club (Cambodia)
92, Norodom Blvd, Tel: 023 360 855
[email protected]
Women’s International Group
Tel: 092 942 435 / 012-934-831,
email: [email protected]
WIG meets every first Wednesday of the
month at 3pm at Hotel InterContinental with a
speaker on various topics. Also has monthly
lunches and events. Welcomes women new to
Cambodia to form a network and get settled
in. Annual fee of US$20 goes to projects for
poor women and children in Cambodia.
commercial banks
Advanced Bank of Asia
148 Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 023 720 435
www.ababank.com.kh
Commercial bank, managed by Koreans
and Cambodians, established in 1996.
Has branch office on Mao Tse Tung.
ANZ Royal Bank
Main Branch, 20 Street 114
www.anzroyal.com
Cambodia’s major commercial bank has
brought international standards of banking to the country. Has a large number of
ATM machines around Phnom Penh and
can arrange money transfers.
Maruhan Japan Bank
83 Norodom Blvd.,Tel: 023 999 010
First Japanese commercial bank in
Phnom Penh.
Counselling Services
Banyan Tree Counselling Listing
17Az Street 21, Tel. 017 555 691
Run by Australian and American Social
workers and Family therapists. Specialising in counselling for children, adolescents, couples and families.
1 hour US$65, 1.5 hours – US$85
Phnom Penh Counselling Centre
11 Street 420, Tel. 092 700 910
Individual, couple and family therapy as
well as resolution of trauma and abuse
residue using EMDR. Sliding scale fees
based on income.
design & media
Asia Media Lab
Tel: 012 818 917, www.Asiamedialab.com
Full service video production company
specializing in the creation of dynamic
visual content to help bring NGO stories
to life for fundraising and advocacy. Director, producer, storyteller Todd Brown
has nearly a decade of experience producing compelling television programs
in the US.
insurance
AG Cambodia
Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sisowath Quay
Tel: 017 360 333, [email protected]
Professional insurance agent offering
health, home, car, factory, employee and
hotel insurance packages.
Asia Insurance Cambodia
5 Street 13, Tel: 023 427 981
[email protected]
www.asiainsurance.com.kh
Hong Kong-based insurance company
registered in Cambodia in 1996. Offers all
types of insurance services.
Forte Insurance (Cambodia)
325 Mao Tse Tung, Tel: 023 885 066
www.forteinsurance.com
The largest Cambodian underwriters.
Established in 1996, specialise in car, accident, property, personal liability, marine,
travel and transport insurance.
Infinity Insurance
126 Norodom Blvd, Tel: 023 999 888
Professional insurance company offering
motor, property, home, marine cargo, personal accident, healthcare, construction
and engineering insurance. Group policies
can be customised.
international schools
ICan International School
85 Sothearos Blvd, Tel: 023 222 418
www.ican.edu.kh
iCAN is a truly international school. It offers
affordable, high quality education to 330
children, aged 2-12, from 29 different na-
tionalities, using the British curriculum. iCAN
is a contemporary, purpose-built school
and is the first in Cambodia with interactive
whiteboards in every classroom. All iCAN
teachers are fully qualified, experienced
and encourage a love of learning that goes
beyond what is taught.
International School of Phnom Penh
146 Norodom Blvd, Tel: 023 213 103
www.ispp.edu.kh
Founded in 1989, this non-profit, nonsectarian international school has 567
students from Pre-K to Grade 12. The
largest international school with over 65
professional teachers, and the only authorised IB Programme in the country.
Northbridge School
1km off National Road 4 on the way to
the airport, Tel: 023 886 000
www.niscambodia.com
USA accredited school offering NurseryGrade 12 university preparatory international education. Purpose built facility
with expansive playing fields, playgrounds
and pool on secure, manicured grounds.
PYP/IBO candidate school.
Zaman International School
2843 Street 3, Tel: 023 214 040
www.zamanisc.org
International school that teaches a full
curriculum to children from four to 18.
Facilities include basketball and volleyball
courts, a football field and a science lab.
it & software
Conical Hat (Cambodia) Ltd.
Norodom Blvd.,
Tel: 023 362 957
[email protected], conicalhat.com
Software company that specialises in
providing highly localised business solutions
including accounting, payroll and billing.
Netpro Cambodia
146D, Street 376, (near Toul Sleng Museum),
Tel: 855 23 215 141,
[email protected],
netpro-cambodia.com,
IT support company that delivers high quality
Embassies
Australia
Malaysia
16B National Assembly Street
Tel. 023 213 470
www.cambodia.embassy.
gov.au
5 Street 242, Tel: 023 216 176
www.kln.gov.my/perwakilan/
phnompenh
Myanmar
Phnom Penh Center, Sihanouk Blvd., Block F - Floor 7
Tel: 023 214 024
181 Norodom Blvd.,
Tel: 023-213-663
www.mofa.gov.mm/myanmarmissions/cambodia.html
Canada
Philippines
Canadians must see the
Australian Embassy.
33 Street 294, Tel: 023 215 145
[email protected]
com.kh
Belgium
China
156 Mao Tse Tung Boulevard,
Tel: 023 720 920
www.travelchinaguide.com/
embassy/cambodia.htm
Singapore
92 Norodom Boulevard,
Tel: 023 221 875
[email protected]
www.mfa.gov.sg/phnompenh
Denmark
8 Street 352 Tel: 023 987 629
www.phnompenh.um.dk/en
Sweden
8 Street 352, Tel: 023 212 259
www.swedenabroad.com
France
1 Monivong Boulevard,
Tel: 023 430 020
www.ambafrance-kh.org
Thailand
196 Norodom Boulevard,
Tel: 023 726 306
www.mfa.go.th
Germany
76-78 Street 214,
Tel: 023 216 381
www.phnom-penh.diplo.de/
Vertretung/phnompenh/en/
Startseite.html
United Kingdom
27-29 Street 75,
Tel. 023 427 124
[email protected]
www.ukincambodia.fco.gov.
uk/en
Japan
75 Norodom Boulevard,
Tel: 023 217 161
www.kh.emb-japan.go.jp/
index-e.htm
United States
Laos
Vietnam
15-17 Mao Tse Tung,
Tel: 023 983 632
www.kln.gov.my/perwakilan/
phnompenh
436 Monivong Boulevard, Tel:
023 726 283
www.vietnamembassy-cambodia.org/en
1 Street 96, Tel. 023 728 000
[email protected]
www.cambodia.usembassy.gov
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the insider
the insider
the insider
Airlines
The Geek:
Get Your
Mac On
Sok Yeng looks at the pros and cons of buying a Mac.
Air Asia
66 Mao Tse Tung Boulevard
Tel: 023 356 011
Angkor Airways
32 Norodom Boulevard
Tel: 023 222 056
Bangkok Airways
61A Street 214
Tel: 023 722 545
China Airlines
32 Norodom Boulevard
Tel: 023 222 393
Dragon Air
168 Monireth Boulevard
Tel: 023 424 300
Eva Air
298 Mao Tse Tung Boulevard
Tel: 023 219 911
Jet Star Asia
333B Monivong Boulevard
Tel: 023 220 909
Korean Air
F3-R03, 254 Monivong Blvd.
Tel: 023 224 047/8
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Lao Airlines
58C Sihanouk Boulevard
Tel: 023 216 563
Malaysia Airlines
172 Monivong Boulevard
Tel: 023 218 923
Royal Khmer Airlines
36B Mao Tse Tung Boulevard
Tel: 023 994 502
Shanghai Air
19 Street 106
Tel: 023 723 999
Siem Reap Airways
61A Street 214
Tel: 023 722 545
Silk Air
313 Sisowath Quay (Himawari Hotel)
Tel: 023 426 808
Thai Airways
294 Mao Tse Tung Boulevard
Tel: 023 214 359
Vietnam Airlines
41 Street 214
Tel: 023 363 396
In October, I bought
myself a sexy 13” MacBook
Pro. The reason? More and
more of my clients are using
Mac. And since I can run Windows on a new Mac laptop
with gorgeous graphics, I have
decided to make the switch!
In the first week, I struggled
a little switching between
open programs and windows
as I’m used to task bar clicks.
Switching between programs
was ok, but confusing when
trying to switch between open
documents in the same program. But it turns out you can
set up Expose (hot corners)
which allows you to display
everything at a glance on your
screen by just moving your
mouse pointer to one of the 4
‘hot’ corners of the screen.
The new Macintosh laptops are very well designed
for mobility, multimedia and
great for web browsing. And
Mac is a sexy computer. It
has very cool features that
you will love like the multisensor touchpad for better
cruising and smooth preview
and zooming on pictures.
For recent converts from
PC the great thing about
the new Macs is that they
enable you to run Microsoft
Windows so that you can still
use those PC programs that
you can’t live without.
Once you get used to the
new Mac, it’s actually very
easy to navigate.
The auto screen brightness
adjustment is a wonderful
break-through technology
which helps your eyes avoid
confronting a bright screen
while in a dark room. Instead,
the screen dims when it’s dark
and brightens up in brighter
light. The backlit keyboard
is just brilliant. Previewing
pictures, PDF files and office
documents is fast and makes
sense as the program is
already built-in with the latest
Mac Operating System.
Less chance of a virus
infection is for sure a big
advantage over a Windows
machine. You also don’t need
to worry about accessing your
work files on a Windows server
anymore. It’s fully compatible.
If you are interested in
purchasing a Mac, the Geek’s
tip on buying a Mac in Cambodia is to really investigate
online which local shops are
authorized resellers and also
authorized service providers.
Some shops only sell but
cannot repair which can lead
to a huge headache. I would
recommend Uni Young, just
north of Central Market near
Bank street. They are a registered Apple service Provider.
Uni Young, 2D1 Street 53,
Tel. 012 866 667.
Sok Yeng is the technical manager at NETPROCambodia. This company
provides IT solutions for the
home or office. He can be
contacted at [email protected] Visit:
www.netpro-cambodia.com
for more information.
By the time you read this column chances are that you have spent ...and spent...and spent again to cover the
cost of your festive season. Here are some tips on how to recover from a severe financial hangover brought
about by all that spending.
Even though we live
in Asia we are certainly not immune to Christmas. Although
there are no official figures for
Christmas spending for expats
living abroad, it stands to reason
that if you are, and you take part
in seasonal festivities you will
invariably be spending money.
Sometimes you will spend - and
borrow - more than you should.
If you are one of these
people, do not waste time
worrying about it. Instead put
a plan in place that will help
you get back on financial track.
Here are a few pointers to help
you do that.
Annual Overview
Start by creating an overall plan
for the whole year. Make sure
and reliable services to home and small to
medium size organisations in Cambodia.
legal
Sciaroni & Associates
56 Sothearos Blvd., Tel: 023 210 225
Law firm with a good reputation. Just the
ticket if you get into a spot of bother.
Office Space
Kamia The Secretary Ltd.
784-787, Building F Phnom Penh
Centre, Cnr. Sothearos & Sihanouk
Blvds., Tel: 023 997 492,
wwwthesecretarycambodia.com
Highly professional company that lets
fully-serviced office accommodation on
both a short-term and long-term basis.
Pets
Happy Dog
233 Kampuchea Krom (Street 128),
Tel: 012 321 333
Just what man’s best friend wanted. This
shop specialises in dog food, toys, products
and services, including veterinary, boarding,
grooming and shampoo. Open from 8am
to 8pm.
Post Office
Main Post Office
Cnr. Street 102 & Street 13
Open from 6.30am to 9pm. The place
to go if you want to send something
overseas or get a PO Box.
Photography
AsiaMotion
Tel: 092 806 117, www.asiamotion.net
Photographic agency established by
Isabelle Lesser in November 2008 as a
cooperation between local and international photographers.
Melon Rouge Agency
84 Sothearos Blvd,
Tel: 092 644 811,
www.melon-rouge.com
Photographic agency that offers a full
range of visual products and services
from fashion, life style, reportage, 360°
that it is realistic and achievable
and monitor it regularly – once
a month is a good benchmark –
once a week is better!
Budget for Holidays
Instead of just spending
haphazardly on travel and
holidays as well as big ticket
items that take your fancy
– cars, stereos, computers
– make your budget part of
your annual plan.
Manage your Debt
Pay off the credit cards or
loans with the highest interest
charges first. By prioritising
your debt you will reduce
unnecessary interest payments.
Try to switch to credit cards
that offer you something in re-
turn – like points that can save
money when you travel etc.
Start Saving
Pay yourself first by putting
money aside on a regular
monthly basis. One of the best
ways to do this is to pay a fixed
amount in to a fund.
Keep your Eye on the
Financial Ball
Instead of blindly paying off
credit cards, loans and bills,
monitor your payments regularly to see that you are getting
the best deals.
Spend Less than you Earn
If you apply Pointers 1-5 you
will find that this particular
pointer will be easier to achieve.
panoramic pictures, to cultural event
organisation.
Cambodia Samarat Communication
56 Norodom Blvd., Tel: 016 81001
Internet provider that issues the 016 SIM card.
Nathan Horton Photography
Tel: 092 526 706
Full service professional photographer.
Hotels, bars, restaurants, spas and
location work. Call for Travel Photography
workshops and Travel Photography tours.
www.nathanhortonphotography.com
Camshin
6B-7B 294 Mao Tse Tung Blvd.
Tel: 023 367 801
Internet provider that also installs land
lines and issues the 011 SIM card.
Printing
Digital Advertising
60E Street 38, Tel: 023 987 600
Print house with modern equipment that
provides full print services as well as graphic
design.
Relocation
Crown
115-116 Street 335,Tel: 023 881 004
Global transportation and relocation company
with over 150 offices in 50 countries, specialising in expat support and household shipment.
Security Firms
City Link
170 Norodom Blvd., Tel: 023 220 112
One of the major internet providers in
Phnom Penh.
Ezecom
7D Russian Blvd., Tel: 023 888 181
www.ezecom.com.kh
Internet service provider that promises
boundless internet packages suited to everyone’s needs. Good packages for those
looking for unlimited downloads.
Hello
Tel: 016 810 000,
www.hello.com.kh
Mobile phone provider that has the 015
and 016 SIM card. Is currently promoting
cheap overseas calls.
Spending less than you earn is
much easier when you have a
solid overall plan.
So, if you have overdone it
this holiday season and you are
nursing a financial hangover
don’t fret. Instead just get
on and fix it. Due care and
attention might be all that is
required to get you back on
track. Happy New Year!
Trevor Keidan is Managing
Director of Infinity Financial
Solutions. This company provides impartial, tailor-made,
personal financial advice
to clients in Cambodia and
Southeast Asia. Should you
wish to contact Trevor please
send an email to [email protected]
infinsolutions.com.
Mobitel
33 Sihanouk Blvd., Tel: 012 801 801
Largest ISP in the country. Major mobile phone
company which issues the 012 SIM card.
Online
60 Monivong Blvd.,
Tel: 023 727 272
The biggest and most reliable of the
Internet providers. Watch out for their
hotspots around town.
Smart Mobile
464 Monivong Blvd.,Tel: 023 868 881
Newest of the mobile phone providers in the
capital. Issues the 010 and 098 SIM cards.
Star-Cell
173 Nehru Blvd.,
Tel: 023 888 887
Mobile phone providers with the 098 SIM Card.
Has recently established an office within Siem
Reap too.
TeleSurf
33 Sihanouk Blvd, Tel: 012 800 800
www.telesurf.com.kh
Internet service provider (ISP) providing
24-hour broadband Internet service.
MPA
23 Street 214, Tel: 023 210 836
Well-established security company that
is responsible for keeping many of the
town’s buildings safe and sound.
Shipping
Crown
Hotel Cambodiana, 313 Sisowath Quay,
Tel: 023 986 680, www.crownrelo.com
Global transportation & relocation with over
150 offices in 50 countries, specialises in
expat support and household shipment.
Telecoms
Beeline
Tel: 090 999 611, www.beeline.com.kh
Mobile phone company offering VoIP
international calls at attractive rates.
Cadcoms
825A Monivong Blvd., Tel: 023 726 680
Communications company with Norwegian connections has launnched the qb
3G entertainment network. Has competitive talk packages.
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the insider
Trevor Keidan:
Curing your Holiday Financial Hangover
siem reap
siem reap
Angkor with Children
Exploring the temples of Angkor with young children can be challenging. But it’s also rewarding
to see these wonders through your child’s eyes, as Angela Savage reveals.
are the ponds, bench swing and
garden will.
There’s plenty for kids to see
at the enclosed Night Market,
too, and the juggling cocktail
barmen at the fabulous Island Bar
in the middle should keep them
distracted long enough for you to
enjoy a cool drink.
traditional dance shows
The Apsara Theatre (also referred
to as ‘Angkor Village’) has a 6.308pm dinner and show – free for
toddlers – which our daughter
found captivating. Apsara Theatre (Angkor Village), Wo Bo
Road, Siem Reap.
Auberge Mont Royal d’Angkor
www.auberge-mont-royal.com/
web/
Discovering Angkor is full of mystery for both old and young
I first visited Siem Reap
and the surrounding temples
in 1992. Back then, the United
Nations was running Cambodia, civil war was still raging
in the countryside, and there
was just me and my partner –
literally. We barely saw another
living soul.
Sixteen years later, we returned
with our nearly-three-year-old
daughter to a town that had
changed so much it was unrecognisable, and temples crowded
with foreign tourists. It was a
very different experience but
equally worthwhile.
The first thing that struck me
about visiting Angkor with our
daughter was that what excited
us was rarely the same as what
excited her. Exploring the junglecovered ruins of Ta Phrom might
be fun, but what really had her
riveted were the tiny frogs and
giant snails that shared the stones
with her (we were warned against
touching the snails as they can
cause a rash).
While she showed mild interest
in the carvings of the apsaras at
Angkor Thom, she was thrilled
by the group of apsara dancers in
traditional costume who posed
for photos with her for a mere
US$1 donation.
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Another friend’s kids most enjoyed the grassy expanse in front
of the Terrace of the Elephants,
and watching the real elephants
ferry the tourists around Angkor
Wat. The horses, too, are popular
with the kids.
But visiting the temples
themselves can be boring, if not
gruelling for a toddler. So here
are a few tips, gleaned from a
number of families, for making
the trip as enjoyable as possible
for everyone.
Some midrange, family-friendly
hotels recommended by resident
expats are the Auberge Mont
Royal d’Angkor, the Borann
l’Auberge des Temples and the
Pavilion d’Indochine. All have
pools, gardens and kid-friendly
touches. The Majestic Angkor
was also recommended for older
children (pool but no garden).
If you really want to enjoy the
temples at your own pace, consider travelling with another family
or other adults and taking turns at
childcare and temple viewing.
That said, seeing the temples
through the eyes of a child can be
an enriching experience. While I
remember the breath-taking grandeur of the temples on our 1992
visit, travelling with my daughter
made me appreciate the details.
Amongst our friends, the
jungle temple of Ta Phrom seems
to be the biggest hit with the
kids. Visiting early, around 8 or
8.30am, will get you there ahead
of the tour buses.
In Siem Reap, the Butterflies
Garden Restaurant is worth
a visit. If the butterflies don’t
keep the kids occupied, chances
Borann l’Auberge des Temples
www.borann.com/
Butterflies Garden Restaurant
8am-10pm Ph 063 761 211
www.butterfliesofangkor.com
Pavilion d’Indochine
www.fr.asiarooms.com/cambodia/
siem_reap/pavillion_indochine.
html
Pointers
If your back is up to it,
consider carrying your
child in a baby/toddler
backpack. If you live in
Phnom Penh and don’t
have your own, someone
on the Yahoo group ‘Cambodia Parent Network’
might lend you one. Contact [email protected]
If your toddler is too
heavy or active to be carried, make sure they have
decent walking shoes
that don’t cause blisters
(seems like a no-brainer,
but we got caught out on
this one).
Be realistic about what you
can achieve: visiting two or
three temples is probably
enough for one day.
Hire a guide. In kid-friendly
Cambodia, a good guide
will be sensitive to kids’
needs, such as pointing
out all the fantastic animals
to be seen on the basreliefs at Angkor Wat and
the Bayon. Ours even carried our daughter up the
steeper staircases so we
could all enjoy the view.
Stay at a hotel with a pool
and make the most of it to
take time-out between tours.
Holidays
Arts & Events
Film
Music & Parties
Food & Drink
Sales
Sports
January
everything you’ve wanted to know about what’s going on in the Reap ...
1 Friday
13 Wednesday
Exhibition of works by Vincent Brouset @ FCC, 6pm
“Black ink drawings of the
Khmer woman” Exhibition
runs all month.
Yoga Workshop with Diane
Long @ Wat Bo Temple
For more information contact
[email protected]
3 Sunday
Exhibition opening @ Centre
for Friends Without a Border,
6pm. Photographic works
by David Scheinbaum. Wine
reception and music by Milo.
Live music with “Plan B” @
FCC , 7pm
5 Tuesday
Japanese Buffet @ FCC, 6pm
9 Saturday
Khmer Youth Movie Night @
Singing Tree Café, 6.30pm
Akeelah and the Bee.
Reggae Night @ X Bar, 10pm
Live DJ, D’Tonn, limbo competition fire-show.
…may switch to Friday, keep
an eye out for posters
10 Sunday
Sunday Night Movie @ Singing Tree Café, 6pm
Food matters, you are what
you eat.
11 Monday
Yoga Workshop with Diane
Long @ Wat Bo Temple
For more information contact
[email protected]
12 Tuesday
Australian BBQ @ FCC, 6pm
Yoga Workshop with Diane
Long @ Wat Bo Temple
For more information contact
[email protected]
14 Thursday
Elegy: Reflections on Angkor
@ McDermott Gallery, Old
Market, 6pm. Photographs
by John McDermott.
Yoga Workshop with Diane
Long @ Wat Bo Temple. For
more information contact
[email protected]
Live DJ, D’Tonn, limbo competition fire-show.
…may switch to Friday, keep
an eye out for posters
Café, Gallery and Shop
Opening Party @ Circle and
Sammaki, 7pm. Drinks, food,
art and clothing. (Near Poetry
and The Sports Bar)
24 Sunday
Sunday Night Movie @ Singing Tree Café, 6pm. Turtles
can Fly – The Kurdish hope
to survive.
26 Tuesday
Live music with Daniel Sea
@ Molly Malone’s. Acoustic
guitar session. 8pm until...
Every Tuesday
Introduction to meditation @
Raja Yoga. 5pm – 6pm
Meditation @ Raja Yoga. 6pm
– 6:30pm
Ashtanga Yoga with Heidi @
Singing Tree Café. 9:30am –
10.30am
Pilates with Conchetta @
Singing Tree Café. 9.30am –
10.30am
15 Friday
Italian Buffet @ FCC, 6pm.
Yoga Workshop with Diane
Long @ Wat Bo Temple. For
more information contact
[email protected]
Aussie Day Party @ Angkor
What? Bar, 5pm
16 Saturday
30 Saturday
Khmer Youth Movie Night @
Singing Tree Café, 6.30pm
Slumdog Millionaire.
Khmer Youth Movie Night @
Singing Tree Café, 6.30pm
Kundun.
17 Sunday
31 Sunday
Sunday Night Movie @ Singing Tree Café, 6pm. Chasing
God – are there unifying
principles?
Sunday Night Movie @
Singing Tree Café, 6pm. Life
of Buddha - fundamental
notions by Ven Thich Nhat
Hanh.
Every Wednesday
COMING UP...
Monk Chat @ Singing Tree
Café. Introduction to Buddhism with Venerable Sokhun and friends. 5pm – 6pm
19 Tuesday
Cambodian Buffet @ FCC,
6pm.
23 Saturday
Live music with a ‘surprise’
band @ FCC, 7pm.
Jed & Bina’s Birthdays Party
@Warehouse, 8pm. Themed
party: 1920s flapper style.
Khmer Youth Movie Night @
Singing Tree Café, 6.30pm
The Blue Planet.
Reggae Night @ X Bar, 10pm
Australia Day Party and BBQ
@ Siem Reap Hostel, 12pm
Warehouse 4th Anniversary
Fruit Party, Feb. 26/27
Puppet Parade, Feb. 27
Every Monday
Introduction to meditation @
Raja Yoga. 5pm – 6pm
Ashtanga Yoga with Heidi
@ Singing Tree Café. 6.30
– 8pm
All you can eat BBQ @ The
Villa. Australian style BBQ,
with sausages, grilled shrimp
and salads. Tickets US$6.
5.30pm – 8.30pm
Ladies Night @ Soria Moria.
Complimentary glass of
Champagne, free treats and
specials. 7pm – 10pm
US$1 Night @ Soria Moria.
All drinks, all food US$1.
7pm – 11pm
Introduction to meditation @
Raja Yoga. 5pm – 6pm
Meditation @ Raja Yoga. 6pm
– 6:30pm
Meditation @ Raja Yoga. 6pm
– 6:30pm
Introduction to meditation @
Singing Tree Café. By Raja
Yoga. 7pm – 8pm
Movie Night @ Soria Moria.
Free popcorn, rooftop bar.
8pm
Live music with Daniel Sea
@ Molly Malone’s. Acoustic
guitar session. 8pm until...
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siem reap
calendar
siem reap
@La Residence d’Angkor
siem reap
A network protecting children from all forms of abuse.
www.childsafe-cambodia.org.
siem reap - bars
AHA
The Passage, Tel: 063 965 501
Sophisticated and beautifully designed
wine bar selling a wide range of wines
from around the world and tapas, as well
as great cheese and Lavazza coffee.
Open form 10.30am to 10.30pm.
Every Thursday
Charity Pub Quiz @ Funky
Monkey. Test your knowledge, and raise funds for
charity. 9pm
Oh My Buddha @ Soria Moria. Happy Hour from 10am
to 10pm, buy one get one
free drinks. 50% off all food.
10am – 10pm
Ashtanga Yoga with Heidi @
Singing Tree Café. 10am –
11.30am
Introduction to meditation @
Raja Yoga. 5pm – 6pm
Meditation @ Raja Yoga. 6pm
– 6:30pm
Every Friday
Apsara Dance @ Soria Moria.
By the children from Sangkheum Centre. Special set
menu. Book in advance. 7pm
Pilates with Conchetta @
Singing Tree Café. 9.30am –
10.30am
Ashtanga Yoga with Heidi
@ Singing Tree Café. 6.30
– 8pm
Live music with Cambojam
@ The Banana Leaf.
Live music session with
popular local expat band.
8.30pm – 12pm
Ladies Night @ FCC.
Free FCC chosen drink for
all women. 7pm – 9pm
Every Saturday
Super Saturday @ Soria
Moria. All day Happy Hour,
buy one get one free drinks.
50 percent off all food.
12pm – 8pm
Monk Chat @ Singing Tree
Café. Introduction to
Buddhism with Venerable
Sokhun and friends.
5pm – 6pm
Ashtanga Yoga with Heidi
@ Singing Tree Café. 9am –
10.30am
English Club @ Singing Tree
Café. Talk and Teach/Talk
and Learn. Come to talk
and exchange views
with Cambodian students,
improve their language skills.
1pm – 3pm
Introduction to meditation @
Raja Yoga. 5pm – 6pm
Every Sunday
Meditation @ Raja Yoga. 5pm
– 6pm
Wine Night @ Soria Moria.
Special offers for wine lovers.
6pm – 9pm
Live music with Daniel Sea
@ Molly Malone’s. Acoustic
guitar session. 8pm until...
All you can eat BBQ @ The
Villa. Australian style BBQ,
with sausages, grilled shrimp
and salads. Tickets US$6.
5.30pm – 8.30pm
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ISSUE37
Sunday BBQ & Pool Party @
Siem Reap Hostel. Tickets
US$4. 5pm until...
Spanish Sunday @ FCC.
Sangria & Paella, all you can
eat and drink for US$12, net.
11.30am – 2pm
Angkor What?
Pub Street, Tel: 012 181 4001
“Promoting irresponsible drinking since 1998,”
this graffiti-laden bar is the mainstay of Pub
Street. A healthy mix of loud rock, punk and
grunge, buckets of vodka and red bull for
US$6 and a pool table ensures that you will
never feel alone. Buy 2 buckets in one purchase, get a free Angkor What? T-shirt. Open
from 5pm to late.
Banana Leaf
Pub Street, Tel: 012 378 488
At the top of Pub Street, the Banana Leaf
offers live music every Friday night and
some Saturdays, with popular local expat
band, Cambojam. A new cocktail promotion every week, and 50c draft beers after
9pm. Open from 9am till late.
Central Bar & Brasserie
Old Market. Tel: 017 962 997
New contemporary and stylish bar/restaurant on the corner facing Old Market, serving generous salads, sandwiches, pasta,
pizzas and burgers. Reportedly the best
breakfast in town. Open from 7am – 11pm.
Chilli Si-dang
East River, Tel: 012 723 488
Restaurant bar serving Thai food and a
wide range of wines, with a cool design,
pool table and good sound system. Open
from 9am to 11pm.
Funky Munky
Pub Street, Tel: 092 276 751
The former riverside bar has moved to the
corner of Pub Street. Good mix of music,
excellent film posters and pool table compete with the pub grub for your attention.
Try the Sunday lunch or build your own
burger. Alternatively compete in the most
competitive ‘charity’ quiz on a Thursday.
Giddy Gecko Bar
Lane off Pub Street, Tel: 092 857 400
Late night drinking den that has a good
range of cocktails. Good option for those
wanting to get away from the hordes on
pub Street. Happy Hour from 4pm – 8pm,
buy 2 drinks, get one free (cocktails and
beer). Open from 11am till late.
Laundry Bar
Old Market, Tel: 016 962 026
www.laundry-bar.com
Extremely chilled music bar just off Pub
Street with great mellow decor and extremely
cool t-shirts. Its multi-page music catalogue
makes for the perfect respite from the Cambodian obsession with hip-hop, and they can
burn 7 CDs. Free drink during the 6pm to
9pm washing hours. Open 6pm to late.
Linga Bar
Alley behind Pub Street, Tel: 012 246 912
www.lingabar.com
Laid back, gay-friendly bar with extremely
chilled Buddha Bar tunes and some
amazing light boxes. Unsurprisingly
serves a great range of cocktails. Free
WiFi. Open from 5pm to late.
Obligatory Irish Pub with lots of wood
panelling and Irish memorabilia. The Guinness either comes in a cold can or alongside some steak in a pie. Also has a small
guest house upstairs with air-conditioned
rooms. Open from 7am to midnight.
Red Piano
Pub Street, Tel: 063 964 750
www.redpianocambodia.com
Bar set in a beautiful 100-year old colonial
building that dominates one end of Pub
Street. Lounge chairs spill out onto the
street and the upstairs restaurant has
great views of the mêlée down below.
Open from 7am to 11.30pm.
The Warehouse
Old Market, Tel: 063 965 204
Popular expat bar opposite the old market
that plays great music. Good Asian fusion
cuisine and with an additional selection of
menus from nearby outlets, this is a great
place to hide from the hordes along Pub
Street and use the free Wi-Fi. Also has a free
gallery upstairs. Open from 10am to 3am.
X Bar
Sivatha Street & Pub Street,
Tel: 092 207 842
Definitely the last option for continuing the
night - just one for the road. Open from
4pm to very late. Supersize TV screen,
table football and pool tables provide a
number of options for staying up later.
siem reap - cafés
Blue Pumpkin
Old Market, Tel: 012 946 227
www.tbpumpkin.com
Popular café with a great range of
freshly baked breads and pastries. Serves
shakes and health drinks for US$1.75
and Bon Café coffee. Free WiFi. Also has
outlets at Angkor Wat and the airport.
Café de la Paix
Sivutha Bld, Tel: 063 966 000
www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com
Like the adjoining Hotel de la Paix, this
small café exudes contemporary chic.
Excellent Lavazza coffee, bagels, salads
and free Wi-Fi dished up in air-con surroundings. The sandwiches, salads and
patisseries are all 50% off after 8pm.
4FACES Gallery
Old Market Area, Tel: 089 20 83 36
www.4faces.net
Large range of hot drinks, shakes,
spirits, beers, cocktails and a selected
menu of snacks in this café cum gallery.
English Premier League on tv-screens.
Happy hour from 4pm to 6pm. Free WiFi
Hotspot. Open 10 am – late.
Singing Tree Café
Wat Bo Area, Tel: 012 258 984
Well established and popular café/community centre serving vegetarian food in
a leafy garden setting. Venue for yoga,
pilates, meditation and movie nights. Now
open every day from 8am to 9pm.
Singing Tree Corner
Old Market, Tel: 012 258 984
New born sister to the Singing Tree Café,
this colourful, contemporary café serves
vegan suitable juices, shakes, coffees
and teas, grilled sandwiches and cookies.
Open 11am to 9pm.
siem reap - galleries
Miss Wong
Lane off Pub Street, Tel: 092 428 332
Imagine yourself in China at the turn of
the last century and you won’t go much
wrong in Miss Wong. Extremely welcome
addition to the same-old Siem Reap
bar scene, serves excellent and original
cocktails and dim sum. Open late.
Alliance Café
7 Makara Street, Wat Damnak Area
Tel: 017 809 010
In a French colonial building, Alliance
Art Café combines exhibition space with
a chic restaurant featuring Khmer and
French cuisine. Works are displayed in
the sculpture garden and café gallery.
Molly Malone’s
Pub Street Tel: 063 963 533
www.mollymalonescambodia.com
Arts Lounge
Hotel de la Paix, Sivutha Boulevard
Tel: 063 966 000
siem reap
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Golden Orange
Off East River Road, Tel: 063 965 389
Mini-hotel with good sized air-con rooms
that tends to have customers when others are empty. Nice outside bar makes for
a good place to sit and have a few beers.
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Hotel de la Paix
Sivutha Boulevard, Tel: 063 966 000
www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com
With stoneware bathtubs in the rooms,
mini-iPods upon request, flexible reading
flashlights above the decadently lavish
beds and inset photographic galleries
along all the corridors, de la Paix is simply
a modern design classic. The Arts Lounge
downstairs is a great place to chill and has
free WiFi.
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Heritage Suites
ResRoyal
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.
Stre
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Maharajah
Miss Wong
Asasax Gallery
et
Carnets d’Asie
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U Care
Bodia Spa
Blue Pumpkin
Str
Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor
1 Charles de Gaulle, Tel: 063 963 888
Elegant hotel with opulent gardens and a
spectacular swimming pool in its grounds.
Has frequent art exhibitions and Apsara
dancing on nearby terrace.
Victoria Angkor
Near Royal Gardens, Tel: 063 760 428
www.victoriahotels.asia
Beautiful hotel with the most luxurious
swimming pool and garden. Worth popping in and paying a visit if just to see the
Siamese crocodiles in reception.
siem reap - leisure
Body Tune
293-296 Pokambor Avenue
www.bodytune.co.th
Heavy grey stone Thai-run spa with
selection of massages and facials. All
masseuses work with Thai instructors.
Frangipani
Alley behind Pub Street,
615-617 Hup Guan Street
Tel: 063 964 391
Relaxing three-room beauty spa in the
heart of town that’s popular with expats.
Now has a second outlet in the modern
complex close to the Central Market.
Warehouse
S
Pub ssage Happy Painting
Pa
4 Faces Gallery
the
The One Gallery Klick
McDermott Gallery 2
Old
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Ma
Alliance Café
Golden Banana
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Tara Angkor Hotel
Road to Angkor,
Tel: 063 966 661
Elegant, boutique hotel with attractive swimming pool and rooms at competitive rates.
eet
La Residence d’Angkor
River Road, Tel: 063 963 390
www.residencedangkor.com
Boutique, low-rise resort located across
the river from the centre of town. Stylish
wooden décor. Good pool and lush garden
setting. Both upstairs Martini Lounge
and downstairs bar have recently been
revamped. Great place to splash out.
e
ak
FCC Angkor
Pokambor Avenue, Tel: 023 992 284
www.fcccambodia.com
Boutique hotel with 31 contemporary
Asian-designed rooms spread around the
irp
ou
La Palmeraie
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siem reap - hotels
Amansara
Pokambor Avenue, Tel: 063 760 333
www.amanresorts.com
The ultimate in Siem Riep’s chic hotels. The
limited number of rooms and high-walled
perimeter make this the ideal refuge from
the paparazzi for the global Angkor-bound
jet set. You’ll only be able to get a room if
Mr & Mrs Smith are not on a flying visit.
To
a
lR
Sa
The Wa Gallery
333 Sivatha Boulevard, Tel: 016 746 701
Gallery that mixes original artwork,
handcrafted items, high design fashion by
Siem Reap-based designer Eric Raisina,
and other unique objects into a multifaceted mélange. Open 10am – midnight
na
le
The Red Gallery
FCC, Pokambor Ave., Tel: 092 822 323
A contemporary art space representing
a select group of artists based in Cambodia. The Gallery exhibits sculptures, oil
paintings, photography and mixed media.
Hours: 10am to 10pm.
tio
n
To
To
The One Gallery
The Passage, Old Market Area
Tel: 015 378 088
Eclectic, contemporary gallery that combines
Loven Ramos’ mixed media artwork and
objects and jewellery accumulated through
his travels, with Don Protasio’s fashion and
accessories. Open 11am – midnight.
Na
n
Pi T
McDermott Gallery I & II
FCC Complex, Pokambor Avenue,
Tel: 012 274 274
Alley behind Pub Street, Tel: 092 668 181
www.mcdermottgallery.com
Two galleries devoted to photographic works.
The main gallery has a semi-permanent exhibition of the mesmerising photographs of Angkor
taken by John McDermott and Kenro Izu.
Second gallery features ongoing exhibitions
of other other photographers. Open 10am
to 10pm.
Central
Siem Reap
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O um
Friends Centre
Achamean Street, next to the Angkor
Children’s Hospital, Tel: 063 963 409 (x7015)
International photography gallery curated
by Brenda Edelson set in the Friends
Centre. All proceeds go to the Angkor
Children’s Hospital.
Golden Banana Boutique Resort
Wat Damnak Area,
Tel: 012 654 638 / 012 885 366
www.goldenbanana.info
Villas and suites surrounding a salt water
pool with WiFi, private outdoor bath and
showers, bar and restaurant.
ul R
4FACES Gallery
Old Market Area, Tel: 089 20 83 36
www.4faces.net
Photography gallery showing photojournalism, fine art and documentary photography by international photographers on
the Black Wall in monthly exhibitions with
a permanent display are black and white
photographs by Dutch photographer Eric
de Vries. Open 10 am – late.
garden and swimming pool. Free WiFi
for guests both in rooms and around
the pool.
Tap
h
Large space in the ground floor of the
hotel that showcases the works of Cambodian and international artists. All pieces
focus on Cambodian subjects.
Frequented by those expats in the know.
Helicopters Cambodia
658 Hup Quan Street, Tel: 063 963 316
Professionally run company that has
flights over the temples and beyond in
modern, safe helicopters.
Phokeethra Country Club
Sofitel Royal Angkor Resort & Spa,
Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Tel: 056 396 4600,
[email protected]
International standard 18-hole, 72-par
golf course managed by the Sofitel Royal
Angkor Golf and Spa Resort. Situated
16km outside of Siem Reap.
siem reap - restaurants
AHA
The Passage, Tel: 063 965 501
Sophisticated and beautifully designed wine
bar selling wide range of wines from around
the world, tapas, great cheese & Lavazza
coffee. Open form 10.30am to 10.30pm.
Alliance Café
7 Makara Street, Wat Damnak Area
Tel: 017 809 010
French restaurant established by Olivier
Muzard in a beautiful building just across
the river. Has an adjoining exhibition
space featuring sculptures and paintings
by Cambodian and international artists.
Also runs cookery lessons.
Black Wheat
Pub Street Area. Tel: 092 96 32 13
Modern restaurant serving the traditional
French buckwheat crepes, stuffed with
all kinds of meat, sausages, cheese, vegetables, eggs and fish, as well as pizzas.
Open from 10.30am t0 11.30pm.
Butterflies Garden Restaurant
535 Wat Bo Road, Tel: 063 761 211
www.butterfliesofangkor.com
Garden restaurant with large netting to
keep the infinite number of butterflies
within the grounds. Beautiful, relaxing
setting and good clean food, but slightly
more expensive than the main drag. Small
gift shop also on the premises.
Chez Ninie
Lane off Pub Street, Tel: 012 582 782
Located conveniently right next to Miss
Wong, this delightful small French restaurant has home-cooked cuisine with daily
changing specials.
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siem reap
FCC Angkor
FCC Complex, Pokambor Avenue
Tel: 063 760 280
The best example of contemporary Asian
architecture in Cambodia, elegant bar &
restaurant serve mix of Asian and International
cuisine. The complex includes shops, the McDermott Gallery, Visaya Spa, a boutique hotel &
arguably the coolest pool room in Cambodia.
Le Grand Café
Old Market. Tel: 012 847 419
Elegant, open-fronted colonial style
restaurant/café, serving a mixture of
French and Asian classic dishes. Chef’s
recommendations include palm, pepper
scallops and the Le Grand Café Lasagne, made with chicken and spinach in a
Baileys sauce. Open from 7am to 11pm.
Kama Sutra
Pub Street. Tel: 017 82 44 74
Combining contemporary and traditional
food evoking flavours from across Asia.
Dedicated barbecue section, with regional
classics from Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia
and Cambodia. Plus the curries, tandoori
and massala for which it made its name.
Open from 11am – 11pm.
L’Oasi
East River Road, Tel: 092 418 917
The best Italian restaurant in, or rather
just outside of, town. The hardest part is
to find this place - keep on going on the
East River Road in the direction of the
temples, for a couple of kilometres until
you see the large Italian flag, but once
there the combination of the beautiful
garden and home-cooked Italian pasta
and pizza makes the trip worth it.
Khmer Kitchen
Old Market. Tel: 063 964 154
Unfailingly popular with expats and tourists
alike for its well-prepared, generous Khmer
and Thai dishes at highly affordable prices.
Open 11am to 11pm.
Khmer Kitchen BBQ
Pub St. Area.
Tel: 012 34 95 01
A smaller venue than the sister Khmer
Kitchen, but the food and service are just as
good. Almost impossible to go wrong here.
Open from 11am to 11pm.
La Noria
Wat Bo Road, Tel: 063 964 242
Beautiful restaurant, set on a raised terrace
area surrounded by trees. Serves good
international and Khmer cuisine. Has traditional shadow puppet, musical and dance
performances on Wednesdays. Open 6am
to 10pm.
Le Bistrot de Paris
Old Market Area, Tel: 092 964 790
Parisian-style bistro which opened in
December 2006. Heavy wood-panelled
interior with solid bar provides this
restaurant with authenticity. Serves foie
gras, croque monsieur, cheese, cold
cuts and French wines. Delicatessen
“maison”, with charcuterie and desserts
made on the premises.
Maharajah
Street 7 Old Market Area, Tel: 092 506 622
Excellent Indian restaurant, popular with
expiates and local curry lovers due to its
authentic, fresh and hygienic preparation.
Great reviews from customers.Authentic
Halal food in town.
Meric
Hotel de la Paix, Sivutha Boulevard,
Tel: 063 966 000,
www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com
Elegant, contemporary restaurant with
classically simple yet powerful black and
white décor and an open kitchen. Executive
Chef Johannes Riviere has devised a dailychanging seven-course traditional Khmer set
menu. Try to book one of the swings outside
on the terrace.
Moksha
The Passage. Tel: 012 181 3981
Contemporary Asian food, mixing special
grills and regional classics. Signature dishes
include marinated beef with fried red ants,
and grilled duck breast with tamarind. Open
11am – 11pm.
Samsara
The Passage. Tel: 017 82 44 74
The only South Indian restaurant in town,
serving dosa and wada and many other tasty
dishes from this renowned region. Open
11am – 11pm.
Singing Tree Café
Wat Bo Area. Tel: 012 258 984
Well established and popular café/community centre serving vegetarian food in
a leafy garden setting. Venue for yoga,
pilates, meditation and movie nights. Now
open every day from 8am to 9pm.
The Soup Dragon
Pub Street. Tel: 063 96 49 30
At this location since 2000, this multistoried restaurant continues to pull in
strong crowds for its extensive menu of
western, Vietnamese and Khmer dishes.
Open from 6am to 11pm.
Tigre de Papier
Pub Street, Siem Reap, Tel: 012 265 811
The thing that differentiates this place
from all the other restaurants along Pub
Street is its half-day cookery classes,
starting at 9am. Friendly, helpful French
management.
Viroth’s
Wat Bo Road, Tel: 012 826 346
Elegant restaurant on the other side of
river with excellent terrace garden. A
good place to try royal Khmer cuisine
including amok and beef Lok lak.
siem reap - shops
U-Care Pharmacy
Next to Old Market, Tel: 063 965 396
Reliable western-style pharmacist and
drugstore that also has two branches in
Phnom Penh. Sells health and beauty
products. Open 8am to 12am.
Wanderlust
The Alley West, Tel: 063 965 980
Clothes that make you look good and
life feel great, in invigorating bright
colours and classic designs with a
twist. Also sells shoes, cushions and
jewellery.
travel
Blazing Trails
Killing Fields Road,
Tel: 012 676 381 / 012 542 916
Adventure tourism company that runs
trips on quad bikes to Phnom Tamao,
Tonle Bati and neighbouring villages. Free
pick up for anyone within Phnom Penh.
Cambodia Uncovered
Tel: 012 507 097
www.cambodiauncovered.com
Offers village and cultural tours in Phnom
Penh and surrounds including road trips,
Mekong cruises, accommodation, cooking classes and other activities.
Carnets d’Asie
333 Sivutha Boulevard, Tel: 016 746 701
Set in an arcade, this gallery-cumbookshop has an extensive selection of
photographs and books on Cambodia,
including some black and white prints
from the early 20th Century.
Exotissimo Travel
46 Norodom Blvd, Tel: 023 219 151
www.exotissimo.com
Excellent French-owned agency
specialising in flight bookings, package holidays and a range of well-run
tours of South-East Asia. Specialises
in adventure tourism in Cambodia.
Brochures are available online.
Eric Raisina
53 Veal Village, Siem Reap
Tel: 012 965 207 / 063 963 207
Accessories, home decorations, textiles
and clothing created by Madagascan-born
and French-trained designer. His amazingly vibrant designs have collected quite a
following throughout the fashion world.
Helicopters Cambodia
Travel Indochina
43-44EO Street 108, Tel: 023 991 978
www.travelindochina.com.au
Australian-owned and managed travel
company specialising in small group
journeys around Asia. Can also tailor
trips for individuals.
Jasmine Boutique
FCC Angkor. Pokambor Avenue
Tel: 063 760 610
Same sophisticated, stylish boutique as
on St. 240 in Phnom Penh. The perfect
place for the ballgown you forgot to bring
with you.
Intrepid Travel
468 Sivatha Blvd., Tel: 063 966 655
For travellers with a yearning to get off
the beaten track, Intrepid opens up a
whole new world of adventure travel.
With a huge variety of tours available,
Intrepid travellers explore the world’s
most amazing places.
Oro Rosso
Old Market. Tel 092 985 986
Formerly Sông, but same owner even
if under a different name and the same
feminine, classic styles. Open from
9am to 10pm.
Rouge
Rogue, formerly the Boom Boom
Room, continues to provide the most
up to date music from their massive
catalogue of music, movies, and
television serials.
Siem Reap Book Centre
Pub Street Area. Tel: 012 929 298
History books, catalogues, text books,
stationery, office supplies, souvenirs,
and gifts, newspapers and magazines.
Open 10am.
Sokha Helicopters
2 St. 134 Phnom Penh, Tel: 023 885 773.
24 Sivatha Road Siem Reap,
Tel: 012 184 8891
www.sokhahelicopters.com
Company flies modern French-built
helicopters out of Phnom Penh and
over Angkor. Licensed to fly helicopters
anywhere in Cambodia.
Travel Indochina
43-44EO Street 108,
Tel: 023 991 978
www.travelindochina.com.au
Australian-owned and managed travel
company specialising in small group
journeys around Asia. Can also tailor
trips for individuals.
Even if your business isn’t in
Phnom Penh, better exposure
here can help?
bakery
ice cream
restaurant
lounge
old market - siem reap
www.tbpumpkin.com
063 963 574
open 06:00 to 22:00
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ISSUE37
Advertise, and put the spotlight on your business.
Contact us at: [email protected]
or 012 576878
www.AsiaLIFEGuide.com
getaways
getaways
Dispatches
films, races, deals
Phangan Film Festival
The third annual Phangan Film Festival will take place
from Feb. 12 to Feb. 14 on tropical Koh Phangan Island
in the Gulf of Thailand and will feature independent films
from around the world. Founded by filmmaker Julien
Balmer in 2008, the festival features short and full-length
films, with no restriction on genres. The overall aim is to
touch festival-goers and open doors to spiritual activism.
This year’s themes are “nature” and “spirit,” chosen to
promote reflection on our ways of life and bring about
change and development for Koh Phangan and the world
in general. A share of the profits will be used to sponsor
a collective beach clean-up on Earth Day, Apr. 22, 2010.
Tickets can be purchased on the day of the event for THB
300 per evening or THB 700 for all three nights. For a
sneak peek on some of this year’s entries.
For more information, visit www.phanganfilmfestival.com
Le Tour de Langkawi 2010
Whether you’re an avid cyclist or looking for inspiration to dust off
the old bike, the 15th Edition of Le Tour de Langkawi is sure to liven
your ambition.
Riders will start the Malaysian cycling race Mar. 1 and cross the
finish line in Kuala Lumpur on Mar. 7. The competitors include 20
six-man professional continental, continental, foreign national and
local teams that will ride a total of 1,001.8 km through all corners of
the country. The seven-stage event will feature the terrain of 13 towns
across seven states and two federal territories.
For participant or spectator information, visit www.ltdl.com.my.
Travel Deals:
EAST Hong Kong
The Deal: From Jan. 25 through Apr. 4, new lifestyle and business
hotel EAST is offering promotional rates of HK $988 (US$127) or
HK $888 (US$114) per night for a stay of two nights or more, about
US$200 off the regular rate.
The Setting: Located just east of shopping mecca Causeway Bay and
situated off the Kowloon-bound metro line, EAST is a new luxury
hotel that pairs sleek, modern design with serious tech cred; guestrooms feature state-of-the-art communications technology, 37-inch
HD TVs with satellite/cable, iHome/iPod Touch technology and
WiFi. Facilities include Beast fitness centre, Feast restaurant and
harbour-view rooftop lounge Sugar.
The Verdict: It would be difficult to find a room at a hotel of EAST’s
calibre for the same price in Hong Kong. The promotion offers a
good opportunity to splash out without overspending during a business trip in Hong Kong.
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getaways
Banlung: A Tree Too Far
For many years Ratanakiri was hard to reach, especially during the wet season. Now that the roads
are much improved, Mark Jackson takes the eight-hour drive to Banlung, but has he left it too late?
There’s more water in Ratanakiri than just the lake
Russian helicopters
first brought Pierre-Yves Clais
to Ratanakiri. He used to patrol
the road from Stung Treng to
Banlung in machines flown by
Afghanistan veterans as long
ago as 1992. “It was a great
time,” says the current owner
of Terres Rouge. Pierre-Yves
describes the remote northeastern province then as being a
“wonderful discovery made of
deeply interesting local people
and customs in the middle of a
fantastic nature.” It was a kind
of harmony, he adds.
Cambodia’s wild, wild east has
undergone many changes in the
intervening years – many of them
negative, according to the former
Untac paratrooper.
“Ten years of forest destruction, not logging but sheer
destruction, tens of thousands
of hectares of forest burnt to the
ground every dry season, the
arrival of trash, noise and pollution,” is the way he describes the
area’s development. Pierre-Yves
finds it increasingly difficult to
ensure guests leave with a positive
image of Ratanakiri. “We have
to go further and further but
whenever we find a remaining
patch of great forest we know it is
doomed,” he says.
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A Lost Wilderness
Despite Pierre-Yves’ words of
warning, Ratanakiri remains firmly
on the radar for those trying to
find the exceptional in this increasingly popular tourist destination.
The same development that has
robbed the province of much of its
natural beauty has made it much
more accessible. Highway 7 from
Phnom Penh to Stung Treng is
paved all the way. It is only once
you take Highway 78 to the provincial capital of Banlung that the
road turns to red dirt.
The trees on either side are
splattered with dust kicked up by
the four-wheel drives and lorries
plying their way to Banlung. A
few settlements, hastily assembled
lean-tos and more established
buildings, bare the same red
coating. This is a great trip for
dirt-bike riders with kramas, who
like clogging up the drain in the
shower cubicle.
Our Camry made it easily
enough – this was the beginning
of the dry season. But there were
times when we got too close to the
truck in front and had to apply the
brakes and retire to a safer distance,
as my driver couldn’t even see the
vehicle directly in front of us.
Pierre-Yves is correct about the
logging. Few mature trees line
Highway 78 and the roads around
Banlung. Occasional clumps of
mature trees are tantalising reminders of what once was. Carry on
further northeast towards Vietnam
and you will see some more mature
trees in O’Chum district near the
Veal Rum Plain. Rubber plantations are evidence of attempts to
give something back to the earth.
However, any explorer looking to
become lost in the midst of dense
jungle has timed it too late – at
least in the relative proximity of
Banlung. Apparently there is good
trekking further afield, but this is
no Indiana Jones country.
Lakes & Waterfalls
Yaklom Lake – perfect resting spot
Banlung itself is a two-road town
with very little to delay travellers.
It is though only three kilometres
away from the area’s main draw
– Yaklom Lake (US$1 entrance).
Scientists have identified the lake
as dating back some 700,000 years.
The clear waters provide for a
beautiful swim, reminiscent of
Alpine lakes, only not half so cold.
Several pontoons are dotted around
Wet or Dry?
Jean-Yves’ favourite season is the
rainy season and the period immediately after (September – October) “because nature is so nice
then and it rains mostly at night.”
However, he adds that December
to February is also good due to
the cooler nights. You might even
getaways
the lake, so you do not have to take
the plunge immediately. Rather
take the small path to your right
as you meet the lake and keep on
walking until you meet your place
of solitude. Some huts around the
lake are for hire, offering visitors the
chance of a picnic Khmer-style. The
really adventurous can climb the
tall tree next to the main pontoon
and leap from its lofty perch into
the waters. Alternatively just spend
a lazy afternoon mixing swimming
with reading a book and waiting for
the sun to settle over the lake. This
really is one of the more enchanting
places in Cambodia.
The other main attractions
around Banlung are the three
waterfalls. Cha Ung is an impressive single drop fall, although the
waters are not accessible by foot.
Those wishing to take a quick dip
should head for either the Katieng
or Kachagn Falls, both of which
have small pools where you can
swim – although the steps leading
down to Katieng Falls are pretty
treacherous. All three falls are only
a few kilometres out of Banlung
(2,000 riel entrance). Another
place of interest is Eisey Patamak
Hill, which has good views of
Banlung and the surrounding area
from its reclining Buddha.
Perfect for reclining
find an excuse for taking your
beloved fleece out of the drawer.
However, talking to the Frenchman it is hard to avoid the feeling
that the best time to visit the red
province was yesterday. Even tourism forums “speak very harshly
of deforestation in Ratanakiri”
according to Jean-Yves. Unless
measures are taken to preserve
what little is left, one thing is certain – get there while you can – for
it won’t be here for much longer.
Accommodation Links
Terres Rouge
www.ratanakiri-lodge.com
/?lng=en
Yaklom Lodge
www.yaklom.com
Go natural at Yaklom Hill Lodge
Terres Rouge – the best hotel in the province
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getaways
Our Man in Bangkok
quirky, laidback, edgy, furnished
Eat
Lo-Shu Restaurant & Wine Bar
This quirky feng shui restaurant is based on the four elements – fire,
water, earth and wind, a theme which is emphasised through the
design. The menu brings together traditional flavours from Thailand,
Vietnam, China and Japan and presents a range of Asian tapas, adventurous fusion concoctions and experimental dishes such as a Strawberry Caesar Salad and Chicken Souvlaki Wraps (with Indian spices).
There’s live jazz on Fridays, and Lo-Shu claims to have Thailand’s only
shochu cocktail lounge.
Sukhumvit Soi 23, Tel +662 259-6771, www.lo-shu.com
DRINK
Jam
This laidback Thai-style bar is popular with Soi Thong Lo’s trendsetters. It’s a good chilled place to have a few drinks before heading to
one of the nearby clubs. The venue features a comfy sprawl space
inside. DJs play laid-back lounge during the week and there are local
indie bands on the weekend.
J Avenue Soi Thong Lo, Tel +6681 832-0675
SEE
Kathmandu Photo Gallery
Located in a restored 1930s shophouse in the Silom district, this
two-floor gallery is owned and run by Thai photographer Manit
Sriwanichpoom, who is well known for his superbly composed, edgy
portraits. Manit’s photography adorns the walls downstairs while the
upstairs room is an exhibition space, where Hidden Gardens–Private
Views by Stephen Albair runs until Jan. 31. Kathmandu also sells
books and Buddhist and hippy garbs imported from Nepal.
87 Pan Road, Tel +662 234-6700, www.kathmandu-bkk.com
SLEEP
Relax in the quirky feng shui at Lo-Shu Restaurant & Wine Bar
www.asiamotion.net
[email protected]
+855 92 806 117
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Fusion Suites
Small eight-storey boutique hotel with 35 rooms, including deluxe suites
that sport their own jacuzzi. Rooms are pretty small, but well appointed. And there’s plenty of exposed wood and polished concrete, with
contemporary paintings hung on the walls. Each room features an iPod
dock, WiFi and TV. The property is located a short walk from Asoke
BTS and Sukhumvit MRT station. Rooms start at 2,300 baht ++.
Sukhumvit 21, Tel +662-655 2644, www.fusionbangkok.com
We offer you
a variety of services ranging
from social, artistic,
commercial, press,
fashion & advertising
photography
getaway
A network protecting children from all forms of abuse.
www.childsafe-cambodia.org.
battambang
La Villa
East bank of river, Tel: 012 826 186
www.lavilla-battambang.com
Beautifully restored 1930s colonial house
with six rooms.
Riverside Balcony Bar & Restaurant
West bank of river, Tel: 012 437 421
Traditional wooden house with great
views of the river and good food. Open
from 4pm to midnight.
chau Doc (vietnam)
Victoria Chau Doc Hotel
32 Le Loi, Tel: +84 76 865 010
www.victoriahotels-asia.com
A few kilometres on the Vietnamese side
of the border, Chau Doc’s finest has great
views of the Bassac River, a swimming pool,
restaurant serving both international and
Vietnamese cuisine and great massages.
phu quoc (vietnam)
Chenla Resort & Spa
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: +84 773 995 895,
www.chenla-resort.com
Luxurious resort and spa on the beautiful
island of Phu Quoc is less than five hours
away from Phnom Penh. Set on a quiet
bay, 37 bungalows, including 6 Jacuzzi
villas, a large swimming pool, relaxing spa
and Mediterranean restaurant.
kampot
Bar Red
Old Market area, Tel: 092 724 720
Restaurant and bar in close to the river, just
around the corner from Bokor Mountain
Lodge. Open from 6pm to late this is a
good spot for a late night drink with personable host Steve, or to try some Indian
food including their gargantuum samosas.
Blissful Guest House
Kampot, Tel: 012 513 024
Small guest house, with 11 rooms, set in a
quiet part of town. Downstairs restaurant
and bar, and communal TV room upstairs.
Bodhi Villa
Across the river, Kampot
Small guest house just acoss the old
bridge in Kampot. The few basic rooms
are extremely cheap and there are bungalows overhanging the river too. Most definitely a place to chill like the lotus eaters.
Bokor Mountain Lodge
Riverfront, Kampot, Tel: 033 932 314
www.bokorlodge.com
Beautiful French colonial building
situated on the riverfront with well-fitted
air-conditioned rooms. Also has a good
restaurant and bar with some outside
seating overlooking the river.
Epic Arts Café
Old Market, Kampot
Employing deaf staff, this café next to the
old market has a good range of bagels,
shakes, brownies and coffee. Open from
7am to 6pm.
Jasmine
House 25 Riverside Road, Kampot
Tel: 012 927 313
Run by the friendly Jasmine and her husband
Mark, this café/restaurant is a stylish oasis on
the Kampot riverfront. Tasty Thai, Khmer &
café fare. Also has photography decorating
the walls, and occasional film nights.
Les Manguiers
2km north of Kampot, Tel: 092 330 050
Small resort with bungalows and rooms
set in beautiful gardens overlooking the river. Also has a restaurant with daily changing, freshly prepared food. Best to book up
in advance especially at weekends.
Mea Culpa
44 Sovansokar, Kampot, Tel: 012 504 769
New accommodation established by the
former manager of Bokor Mountain Lodge
set in the French Quarter. Six rooms have
air con, hot water, DVD and TV. The large
garden has a patio pizzeria and bar.
Rikitikitavi
Riverfront, Kampot, Tel: 012 274 820
[email protected]
Western food served in large portions
in this river-facing restaurant, bar and
three-room guesthouse. A more upmarket venue for Kampot, the upstairs
seating affords great sunset views. Restaurant and bar open 7 days a week.
Rusty Keyhole
Riverfront, Kampot
This riverside British pub is the place
for expats to chew the fat over a pint in
town. Friendly British owner has created
as close to the atmosphere of a rural pub
as you can in Kampot. Live premiership
games, sunset happy hour, daily BBQs
and a strict ‘no missionaries’ policy make
this a must. Open 8.30am to midnight.
kep
Beach House
Opp. Kep Beach, Tel: 012 240 090
www.thebeachhousekep.com
Small hotel with pool in an excellent location,
directly opposite Kep’s mermaid statue.
Relaxed café, and tasteful western-style
rooms all with sea view. Can organise trips
to nearby Rabbit Island or further afield to
Bokor Mountain.
Breezes,
Route 33, Kep
Situated on the main coast road about
halfway between Kep Beach and the ferry
to Rabbit Island, this stylish restaurant
and lounge is located right by the sea in a
green, wooded area. The food is a fusion
of Asian and western dishes with a focus
on small dishes with plenty of seafood.
Free pick-up and return to Kep hotels.
Champey Inn Resort
Tel: 012 501 742
Sea-fronted resort with fan-cooled bungalows. Has a swimming pool, a restaurant,
a bar and a pleasant garden.
Knai Bang Chatt Resort
Tel: 012 879 486
www.knaibangchatt.com
Exclusive seaside resort just along from the
crab stalls, which has opened up its doors
to the public. Elegant swimming pool, aircon, gym, library and fantastic gardens, this
resort is the ideal place to get away from
Phnom Penh. Good restaurant with fantastic
views of the sea. Check for special offers.
Also has a Sailing Club next door with bar
and restaurant, as well as hoby cats.
Le Bout du Monde
Kep, Tel: 011 964 181
www.leboutdumondekep.com
Individual and separate bungalows in traditional Khmer architecture located at a top
of a hill with good views and nice gardens.
Serves Frenh and Khmer cuisine. Rooms
have hot water, mini-bar, fan and safe.
Led Zeppelin
At the roundabout, Kep
Small bar which sells the coldest beer in
town situated right by the Kep roundabout.
Ambience is distinctly rustic but chill and
the limited range of snacks great value.
Veranda Natural Resort
Tel: 012 888 619, www.veranda-resort.com
Traditional wooden bungalows set in the
hillside, some with fans and others with air
con. Settle down for the night and listen
to the jungle purr. Has a good restaurant
and bar with some quite stunning sweeping views down to the coast.
012009
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 85
getaways
phnom penh - deluxe
Amanjaya
1 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 214 747
www.amanjaya.com
Large hotel with a great central location
along the river front. The rooms are
spacious and well-equipped with tasteful
Khmer decorations. The downstairs restaurant doubles up as the air-con K West bar.
Cambodiana
313 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 426 288
www.hotelcambodiana.com
Great riverside location with spectacular
sweeping views of the confluence of three
rivers. Large rooms with air-con, in-room
safes and good bathrooms. Live band
plays nightly (except Sundays).
Himawari
313 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 214 555
www.himawarihotel.com
The 115 beautifully-designed suites have
aircon, cable TV, IDD, Internet, in-room
safes and large bathrooms. Nice swimming pool and good gym facilities as well
as two good tennis courts.
Imperial Garden Hotel
315 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 219 991
Large hotel and villa complex next to the
Cambodiana. Has a swimming pool, gym
and tennis court. Live band plays nightly.
Intercontinental
296 Mao Tse Tung, Tel: 023 424 888
www.ichotelsgroup.com
One of Phnom Penh’s most luxurious
5-star hotels. The 346 air-con rooms have
all the expected facilities including in-room
safes and king size beds. Also has a large
swimming pool, a Clark Hatch Fitness
Centre, spa and beauty salon.
Raffles Hotel Le Royal
Street 92, Tel: 023 981 888
www.phnompenh.raffles.com
Emanates the same class as its more famous namesake in Singapore. The Elephant
Bar is a popular expat haunt during the 4pm
to 8pm happy hour. Beautiful gardens with
a separate swimming pool for kids plus reasonably priced apartments for long stays.
Sunway Hotel
1 Street 92, Tel: 023 430 333
www.sunway.com.kh
Luxurious international four-star hotel
located close to Wat Phnom with 138
well-sized rooms. Spa, good business
centre and meeting facilities.
phnom penh - mid
Asia Club
456 Monivong Blvd., Tel: 023 721 766
This private club and hotel with the most
beautiful gardens in Phnom Penh is a haven away from the busy Monivong Blvd.
on its doorstep. The five bungalows and
four rooms are air-con with bath, large
safe, flatscreen tv and large working area
for business clients. With use of meeting
rooms and swimming pool, Asia Club is a
good business option and hidden gem.
Almond Hotel
128F Sothearos Blvd.Tel: 023 220 822
www.almondhotel.com.kh
56-room hotel located close to the Royal
Palace and the riverfront with spacious
rooms with WiFi. Downstairs restaurant
serves dim sum and Cantonese food.
Also has a spa.
Anise
2C Street 278, Tel: 023 222 522,
www.anisehotel.com
Small hotel with well-fitted, good size
rooms, all equipped with air-con, in-room
safe and hot water. Downstairs restaurant
serves Asian cuisine.
Billabong
5 Street 158, Tel: 023 223 703
www.thebillabonghotel.com
Centrally-located mini-hotel with a great
swimming pool surrounded by beautiful
palm trees. Serves good food. The rooms
are a reasonable size with air-con.
Blue Lime
42 Street 19z (off street 19), Tel: 0 23 22
22 60 www.bluelime.asia
Centrally-located mini-hotel with a great
swimming pool and contemporary rooms.
Good flashpacker option.
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Bougainvillier
277G Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 220 528
Stylish riverfront hotel with 40 rooms, including some impressively large suites. Dark wood
antique style furniture and jewel coloured
silks create a luxurious ambience, and all the
necessary amenities are available. The hotel is
also home to a gourmet restaurant.
FCC Phnom Penh
362 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 724 014
www.fcccambodia.com
Phnom Penh’s landmark restaurant has
seven rooms with balconies offering views
of the river. Each is individually designed
and meticulously outfitted with high-speed
Internet access and the latest mod cons.
Goldiana
10-12 Street 282, Tel: 023 219 558
www.goldiana.com
Extremely popular hotel for visiting NGO
workers presumably due to its close proximity to NGO-land and reasonable prices.
Kabiki
22 Street 264, Tel: 023 222 290
www.thekabiki.com
Set in a secluded alley around the corner from
the Pavilion, Kabiki is the first hotel in Cambodia dedicated to families and children. The two
salt-water pools are designed with children
in mind. The rooms have a double bed and a
bunk bed as well as a small outside area for
small children. Free WiFi, bar and restaurant.
The Quay
Sisowath Quay, Tel: 023 224 894
www.chowcambodia.com
Five-storey, 16-room riverside boutique hotel
has beautiful contemporary rooms designed by
Gary Fell. The stand-out features are the rooftop jacuzzi and the very contemporary groundfloor bar and Chow Restaurant with WiFi.
The Pavilion
227 Street 19 Tel: 023 222 280
www.pavilion-cambodia.com
Beautiful boutique hotel set in a colonial
building with large, unique rooms, each
with either a small balcony or garden.
Outdoor swimming pool, free WiFi and a
small poolside restaurant.
River 108
2 Street 108, Tel: 023 218 785,
www.river108.com
Art deco hotel aimed at the flashpacker
set. The 12 rooms, six of them with river
views, are extremely comfortable with flat
screen TV and separate bathroom and
toilet. Efficient WiFi, good working space
and spacious rooms make this a perfect
business option. If available opt for one of
the front rooms, where the large balconies
afford great riverside views.
Villa Langka
14 Street 282, Tel: 012 449 857
www.villalangka.com
Boutique hotel with restaurant and beautiful swimming pool, just a stone’s throw
away from Wat Lanka that has competitive rates and a good kitchen, although
the pool tends to get over-run by children
especially at the weekend.
phnom penh - budget
Blue Dog Guest House
13 Street 51, Tel: 012 658 075
Small guesthouse close to the Golden
Mile with cheap upstairs rooms , some
with A/C. Khmer art gallery on the ground
floor, features artwork by the owner. Also
has ground-floor restaurant.
Boddhi Tree
50 Street 113, Tel: 023 998 424
Small guest house with relaxed garden
atmospehere and open balcony restaurant with an imaginative menu. Right
opposite Tuol Sleng.
California 2
79 Sisowath Quay, Tel: 077 503 144
www.cafecaliforniaphnompenh.com
New guest house and bar on the riverfront
with well-priced rooms with air con and security box. Downstairs bar has great Tex-Mex
food and pool table.
Cara Hotel
18 Street 47, Tel: 023 430 666
Just north of Wat Phnom, this stylish boutique hotel has well-fitted rooms at very reasonable rates and a great sushi restaurant.
History
Le Vivier de ‘La Paillote’
Victory Hill, Tel: 012 633 247
Upmarket French restaurant that outshines the other places on Sihanoukville’s
late night drinking street. Sophisticated
French cuisine in a beautiful garden setting. Open for lunch and dinner.
getaways
Feeling Home
Cnr. streets 278 & 63, Tel: 023 221 522,
www.feelinghomecambodia.com
Stylish nine-room boutique hotel with
ample rooms at competitive rates,
including flatscreen TV, air-con, security
box and and great beds. Also has two
apartments, an Asian restaurant and a
Café Sentiment.
Luna d’autunno
Ekareach Street, Tel: 034 934 280
Best Italian restaurant in Sihanoukville, serves
a similar menu to the one in Phnom Penh,
but with a heavier emphasis on seafood.
Beautiful roof-top terrace and interior air-con
restaurant. Open for lunch and dinner.
L’Imprevu
Highway 1, 7km past Monivong Bridge
Tel: 024 390 405
www.hotel-imprevu-resort.com
Complex with twenty-four bungalows just
outside of Phnom Penh. Tennis courts
and excellent swimming pool make this a
good break from the city.
Maharajah
Victory Hill Sihanouk Ville, Tel: 015 966 221
Excellent Indian restaurant, popular with
expiates and local curry lovers due to its
authentic, fresh and hygienic preparation.
Great reviews from customers.Authentic
Halal food in town.
Sokha Heng Guesthouse
29 Street 178, Tel: 023 990 077
Modern, clean 25-room guesthouse
located conveniently close to the National
Museum. Has well-priced rooms with
air-con and hot water.
Tonle Sap Guest House
4-6 Street 104, Tel: 023 986 722
www.tonlesapguesthouse.com
Clean, well-kept guesthouse upstairs with
15 rooms, with air-con, fans, hot water,
cable TV. Downstairs Pickled Parrot bar
open 24 hours.
Velkommen Inn
23 Street 104, Tel: 092 177 710
Just off the riverfront, situated above
Velcommen Inn Restaurant is the guesthouse of the same name. The spotless
rooms have air-con, cable TV, minibar,
safety box and en suite rooms with hot
water. The hotel is located close to the
bus stations and the ferry dock.
Reef Resort
Road to Serendipity Beach,
Tel: 012 315 338,
[email protected]
Small guesthouse set around a beautiful
pool. Rooms have aircon, in-room safe
and cable TV. Family rooms also available. Has a welcoming bar with excellent
TV screen, slate pool table and excellent
Mexican cuisine.
Scuba Nation
Tel: 012 604 680 / 012 715 785
www.divecambodia.com
Five-star PADI centre offering daily trips to
the area’s many islands and reefs including
the decent dive sites at Koh Rung Samloem
and Koh Kon. Also run a range of PADIcertified courses. Has office in Phnom Penh.
sihanoukville
Cantina del Mar
Otres Beach, Tel: 012 702 502
Taco and seafood stall on one of Sihanoukville’s most unspoilt beaches. Expect
great Mexican food and some mean
tequila cocktails. Open from 10am.
Elegance
Sokha Beach Resort
Sokha Beach, Tel: 034 935 999
With its own private beach, excellent
swimming pool and fine restaurants,
Sokha is easily the most up-market place
to stay in Sihanoukville. A live Filipino band
plays around the cocktail bar at night.
Holy Cow
Ekareach Street, Tel: 012 478 510
Beautiful restaurant set in a relaxing garden environment on the main street, with
terracotta terrace downstairs and wooden
dining area upstairs. Competitively-priced,
good cuisine including vegetarian options.
Open 9.30am to midnight.
Starfish Bakery Café
Behind Samadera Market, Tel: 012 952 011
Excellent place for a healthy breakfast or
lunch set in a relaxing garden environment
with good bread, salads, sandwiches,
juices and porridge. Has a small shop run
by the Rajana Association selling clothes
and handicrafts. Good place to go for a
massage. Open for breakfast and lunch.
Independence Hotel
Independence Beach, Tel: 012 728 090
Beautifully restored hotel on Independence Beach, originally opened in
1963, reopened in 2007 following a
complete refurbishment. Infinity pool
and sweeping ocean views from most
rooms. Gym, conference rooms and
circular restaurant.
Zoco
Independence Hotel,
Road to Serendipity Beach
Two fashion boutiques – one on the way
to Serendipity Beach, the other in Independence Hotel – run by the Spanishborn Nuria, sells dresses, skirts, bags and
accessories, with dresses from US$20.
Has another shop in Phnom Penh.
Comfort
along the Sea Shore
Sihanoukville
Victory
Beach
Hawaii
Beach
Victtory Hill
Ek
ar
ea
ch
St
re
Bus
Station
et
Down
Down
wntown
wntown
wn
Ek
ar
Independence Hotel
ea
ch
St
Luna d’autunno
re
et
Independence
Beach
Sokha Beach
Reef Resort
Otres
Beach
Scuba Nation
Serendipity Beach
Ochheuteal Beach
Street 2 Thnou, Sangkat No. 03, Khan Mittapheap, Sihanoukville, Cambodia
Tel: +855-34 934 301 / 012 728 090 / 012 221 373 • Fax: +855-34 933 660
012009
Web: www.independencehotel.net
• Email:Asialife
[email protected]
Phnom Penh 87
ISSUE37
|
unplugged
unplugged
Feeling the Spark in America
Will is left out in the cold as the long winter nights draw in, and his wife finds him less than electric.
Oregon has a known
reputation, among Cambodians and
everyone else, of being a beautiful
place. It has soaring mountain peaks,
lush forests and stunning waterfalls.
But the climatic conditions
that grant the state so much
beauty also grant it a cold, damp
climate for much of the year. For
the five months of winter, much
of Oregon resides in a gray, sunless existence — no snow, no sun,
just a dreary constant drizzle.
Now many locals think this is
a perfectly reasonable situation,
living without sun for so long
only makes you appreciate the
summer that much more. But
immigrants from Cambodia and
other sunny locales generally disagree. Temperatures that I consider
T-shirt weather, is cold enough
to freeze a native of Indochina in
place. Other than giving tropical transplants an opportunity to
become as pale as possible, they’re
miserable, my wife included.
And it’s not as easy as just
cranking up the heat. Setting the
thermostat to replicate a balmy
day in Cambodia sent our electric
|
88 Asialife Phnom Penh 012010
ISSUE37
bill to levels only seen in U.N.funded development programs.
Especially when your wife reacts
to temperatures in the Celsius
teens by turning the heater to
maximum and trying to build a
little tent around the vent.
Sadly, being a journalist doesn’t
leave much for luxuries like extra
electricity, or at least paying for
it. And a few electric shocks from
that all-American 110 volt power
is enough to convince any inept
hobbyists like myself not to try
to steal it.
Other options didn’t pan out as
hoped. Despite former President
Jimmy Carter’s recommendations,
one can wear only so many sweaters.
And the Snuggie, a blanket with
sleeves that has become the symbol
of America’s Great Recession, is
just that: a blanket with sleeves. It’s
about as comfortable and flattering
as any blanket with sleeves can be.
Loving words
Every culture has its own way of
expressing affection, and sometimes these are open to bizarre
cross-cultural misunderstand-
ings. The French endearment
“ma biche” can be confused by
Americans as having far more derogatory implications. Americans
occasionally refer to an annoying,
but adorable child as a bugger
— which means something very,
very different to British ears.
For Cambodians, your true
love — the one who holds
you tight on cold nights — is
a “poi sych.” Literally a “flesh
blanket.” This sounds like
an accessory from Hannibal
Lecter’s line of horrific home
furnishings, something to curl
up under and enjoy a nice
Chianti, but it’s considered a
powerful term of endearment
by Cambodians. Everyone
wants to find their poi sych to
keep them warm at night.
The potential romance is also
rapidly snuffed out by the logistics of trying to huddle together
like refugees in the monsoon rain.
But an amazing technological
innovation presented itself. It offered energy savings, which is currently the height of fashion, and
cozy warmth: an electric blanket.
Power of electricity
It’s rare that one single object can
completely change your view of
a country. For my wife, it was
that electric blanket. Winter in
Oregon is no longer a season of
despair; it’s a season to plug in
and luxuriate under the copperlaced folds.
However, I hadn’t anticipated
the threat that blanket would
pose. As the Internet has rendered many of my fellow journalists obsolete, so has the electric
blanket negated at least one of
my uses as a husband.
Instead of being a warming
lump, she’s now aware that I snore
and take up too much of the bed.
Now when I come to bed, I’m
no longer sought for a warming
hug. If I try to cuddle up for some
of that radiant heat from the electric blanket, I’m as likely to receive
a swift kick as anything else.
It’s a cold, hard world out
there. Even in America.
Will Koenig is a journalist in
Oregon, where he lives with his
wife and son. Email: [email protected]
gmail.com.
unplugged
Vox Pop: Music
Conor Wall and James Grant hit the streets this month to ask about music, rock stars and vinyl
Name: Sony
Age: 25
Nationality: Khmer
Occupation: Barman
What is your favourite
song right now?
Bob Marley – “Is This Love.” I like
the meaning of this song.
If you could be a Rock
Star, who would you be?
Preap Sovath – He is a sexy
man and I think he gets a lot of
women.
What was your first vinyl,
tape, CD or mp3?
When I was 15, I bought a Sun
See Samut cassette. It cost 1,500
riel. Cheap cheap!
Name: Laa
Age: 16
Nationality: Khmer
Occupation: Champion Book
Seller
Favourite Song: Camar Srey
Mun – ‘Go and take a foreign husband’. I like this song because the
Barang in the video is my friend.
His name is Scott.
Rock Star: I wouldn’t want
to be a rock star. I prefer to sell
books so I can give money to my
parents.
First vinyl/tape/cd/mp3: 6
years ago, I bought a Preap Sovath tape. I still have it at home.
Name: Franco Dionco
Age: 23
Nationality: Filipino
Occupation: Creative Director
of F Magazine
Time in Cambodia: 2 years
Favourite Song: Bad Romance – Lady Gaga
Rock Star: Adam Lambert
First vinyl/tape/cd/mp3:
Tape – Aaron Carter
Name: John Berkavitch
Age: 29
Nationality: British
Occupation: Live Artist
Time in Cambodia: 3 Months
Favourite Song: Cannibal
Kids – Sound of Rum
Rock Star: Pete Burns (you
spin me right round)
First vinyl/tape/cd/mp3:
7” Vinyl – MC Hammer – U Can’t
Touch This
Name: Sandra D’Amico
Age: 30-ish
Nationality: South African
Occupation: Managing
Director
Time in Cambodia: 8 years
Favourite Song: Beethoven’s
Pathetique
Rock Star: Mozart
First vinyl/tape/cd/mp3:
Tape – Vusi Maserela, South
African jazz musician
Name: Keren Mayer
Age: 32
Nationality: Swiss
Occupation: Ex-BusinessCorporate Lawyer
Time in Cambodia: 9 days
Favourite Song: Russians
– Sting
Rock Star: Madonna
First vinyl/tape/cd/mp3:
Vinyl - Bananarama
012009
ISSUE37
| Asialife Phnom Penh 89
city map
phnom penh: central
Naga World
all
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The Secretary
St. 7
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240
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Rising Sun
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La Croisette
K West
26
Chill
Amanjaya
El Mundo
14
St. 13
Fly Lounge ChildSafe
Riverhouse
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Friends ‘n’ Stuff
Museum
5
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Friends 27
Reyum Institute
Huxleys
of Arts & Culture
Amara Spa
The Gym Bar
Le Quay
17
13
St.
Friends @ 240
Meta
House
St. 29
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Java Café
& Gallery
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Coffee Maker
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Luna d’autunno
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Mr Sushi
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012009
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 91
unplugged
January Horoscope
Capricorn (Dec. 22 – Jan. 20)
Happy Birthday Capricorn! January is an important month for
you, Capricorn – a time for reinventing yourself. While there are
more career pressures to deal with,
you have very strong powers of attraction and can form a beneficial
friendship this month. A year of
learning and improving your skills
is in store, as well as increased
charm in your manner and the
way you express your ideas. Gifts,
pay increases, or other bonuses are
likely forthcoming.
are in strong focus this month,
Aries, but they are not always
easy. While you have the opportunity to truly shine professionally,
blockages can come from both
outside and within. You are not as
sure of yourself and uncharacteristically second-guessing your decisions these days. Roadblocks and
delays don’t help, but are mostly
cleared up by mid-month, when
you have a chance to start fresh.
Taurus (Apr. 21 – May 21)
Challenges this month mostly
revolve around home, family,
Aquarius (Jan. 21 – Feb. 19)
finances, and personal energy
Until the 18th life is as quiet as it levels, Taurus. However, opshould be, Aquarius. It’s time to
portunities to break the routine
catch up on your sleep, pay more and to get away are likely to arise
attention to your dreams and
now and in the coming months.
intuition, and deal with some
Some of you will be relocating,
endings that need your attention. although it’s better to do so after
While the New Year may not
March. Finances improve from
start with a bang for you, from
mid-month, and you are feeling
the 18th onward, others are pay- decidedly more independent.
ing close attention.
for you, Cancer, and you start
out the New Year with some
challenges with those close to
you. However, by mid-month,
you are rediscovering the joys
of partnership, as well as a
new found urge to explore and
expand your horizons. Meeting new people and learning
about the world around you are
healthy escapes.
Leo (Jul. 23 – Aug. 22)
More rethinking of your strategies when it comes to personal
plans is in order this month,
Leo. Others might not be getting you right now, and you experience delays and frustrations
that force you to go over your
plans and refine them. Work
matters improve significantly by
mid-January, although you still
have to deal with some power
struggles on the job front.
Virgo (Aug. 23 – Sep. 23)
You are learning about what
You can expect 2010 to be a banmotivates you, and how to express
ner year for your career, Gemini,
yourself more freely as a result,
with doors opening up for you and Virgo. A new beginning or a surge
strong support from others. Late
in your romantic life is experiJanuary brings a taste of that excit- enced from the 13th to the 18th,
ing energy. You are likely to deal
although you’ll still need to iron
with mechanical breakdowns and
out your differences when it comes
communication snafus, especially
to shared values. A romance or crewith friends, until mid-March. Fi- ative project moves forward at this
nances are also touchy this month, point. Saturn reminds you to save
with most problems finding resolu- and cut back, and your body gives
tion in the third week of January.
you a strong message to rest
Gemini (May 22 – Jun. 21)
Pisces (Feb. 20 – Mar. 20)
Barriers have been coming down
for you in the past years, Pisces.
With jovial Jupiter moving into
your sign this month – and
staying there much of 2010 –
you’ll be enjoying a lucky streak.
Your confidence and optimism
increase. Some financial tensions
are likely, coming from others
draining your resources. Hold on
to your money.
Aries (Mar. 21 – Apr. 20)
Career and professional matters
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Cancer (Jun. 22 -– Jul. 22)
Libra (Sep. 24 – Oct. 23)
The holiday season was colourful 2010 will bring its share of
responsibilities to you, Libra,
but nothing you can’t handle. In
fact, you will come out stronger
and more self-reliant than ever
before. More confidence is with
you on the job in January. You
will need to be careful, however, that you don’t take on too
much. From the 18th you’ll be
enjoying a more sociable time
and lighter spirit.
Scorpio (Oct. 24 – Nov. 22)
Career demands are heavy this
month, Scorpio. Some decisions or plans may be on hold
and projects need to be redone.
While you have excellent ideas
for projects now, mull them over
until a better time for launching
them. Entertainment and leisure
opportunities open up for you
this year, starting in January.
Your romantic life picks up
speed, you’re feeling more creative, and your interests expand.
Sagittarius (Nov. 23 – Dec. 21)
As adventurous as you are,
dear Sagittarius, January pulls
you closer to home and family.
This is a trend that continues
much of the year—family and
domestic activities bring joy
and increase. Challenges with
friends over values are likely
to crop up now and throughout 2010. While it may not
feel great initially, you’ll be
strengthening true friendships
this year. January is strong, for
money matters, with a windfall,
gift, or bonus likely.
unplugged
This Month in History
A burlesque dancer, a filmmaker, and two pioneering feminist musicians walk into a bar
Birth of a Burlesque Babe.
January 2nd, 1904
Sally Rand starred in roughly
twenty silent films in the mid and
late 1920s, and made at least four
sound films in the 1930s.
Her great claim to fame, however, was as a burlesque dancer: she
danced either nude or in a nude-ish
body suit, usually with her trademark giant ostrich feathers, or her
giant bubble. She was a huge hit
at the 1934 Chicago World’s fair.
After one of her acts at the fair she
was arrested and brought up before
Superior Judge Joseph B. David.
He dismissed the case, saying,
“When I go to the fair, I go to see
the exhibits and perhaps to enjoy
a little beer. There is no harm and
certainly no injury to public morals
when the human body is exposed.
Some people probably would want
to put pants on a horse.”
Rand is quoted as saying, “I
have been successful, and I am
grateful for my success. I have had
some experiences that I wish I
never had had, but that would be
true in any business. I cannot say
sincerely that I would have chosen
just this road to fortune. Perhaps
I might have wished for another
way. But I took the opportunity
that came to me. At any rate, I
haven’t been out of work since the
day I took my pants off.”
the studio to creditors. It was
finally shut down in 1961.
The world’s first recording of the clavichord.
January 8th, 1941
Violet Gordon Woodhouse was
the first keyboard artist to record
January 14, 1892
the harpsichord and clavichord,
Hal Roach was impressed by the
January 25th, 1844.
great American humorist Mark
Clara Wieck already had a career as the harpsichord in 1920 via the
Twain when he was a young
a virtuoso pianist when she married acoustic method, the clavichord
over a radio broadcast recorded
grade school student. After an ad- the composer, Robert Schumann,
venturous youth that took him to in 1840. Her concert performances by the BBC at her home in 1941.
Together two women: Woodhouse
Alaska, he worked his way up in
were the couple’s main source of
in the UK and Landowska in Paris,
the film industry and after comincome during their marriage,
revived these two instruments after
ing into an inheritance, he began despite her bearing her husband
a century of obsolescence. Many
producing short comedies.
eight children. In 1853 the couple
important British musicians, writers
In 1931, with the release of
befriended Johannes Brahms, who
the Laurel & Hardy film Pardon
immediately fell in love with Clara. and artists begged Woodhouse to
continue concertizing and commerUs, Roach began his climb to
Robert died (in an insane asylum)
fame. From 1937 to 1940, Roach in 1856, and Clara and Brahms be- cially recording once electrical recordconcentrated on producing glossy gan a devoted, platonic, love affair – ing became a reality, in 1927, but the
double murder of her sisters by their
features, abandoning low comedy which lasted the rest of their lives.
butler in 1926 brought her a sizeable
almost completely. Roach’s one
Clara lived until 1896, but never
venture into heavy drama was the married again; Brahms never married. inheritance, and she retired from the
concert hall and recording studio. The
acclaimed Of Mice and Men. The He died eleven months after her.
1941 broadcast was a late exception.
Laurel & Hardy comedies, once
Clara Schumann, through her
She did not, however, retire from
the Roach studio’s biggest drawperformances, which continued until
ing cards, were now the studio’s
1891, pioneered the acceptance of a playing. She performed for the rest of
least important product and were woman virtuoso soloist. At the same her life but only for her intimate salon at her house, where she lived from
phased out altogether in 1940.
time, she enshrined her husband’s
1903 with her husband and three
In 1955, Roach sold his inter- and Brahms’ works in the standard
ests in the production company
concert repertory, setting the popular male lovers. She survived her husband
to his son, Hal Roach, Jr., and
seal of approval on two late classicists and one lover, dying in 1948.
Woodhouse was a pioneer in the
retired from active production.
at the height of the romantic era.
Unfortunately, the younger
Her refusal to remarry also enshrined revival of early music and early music
Roach lacked much of his father’s the Victorian conception of eternally instruments, and in open marriage,
during the Edwardian era.
business acumen, and soon lost
faithful widow-hood.
A film legend born
Clara Schumann’s first
concert tour.
Celebrity birthdays this month
Figures in brackets represent the age they will be on their birthday.
Jan. 1 – Verne “Mini–Me” Troyer (41); Jan. 2 – Cuba Gooding Jr. (42); Jan. 3 – Mel Gibson (54); Jan. 5 – Marilyn Manson (41), Diane
Keaton (64); Jan. 6 – Rowan Atkinson (55); Jan. 7 – Nicolas Cage (46); Jan. 8 – David Bowie (63), Stephen Hawking (68), Jan. 9 – Jimmy
Page (66), Joan Baez (69); Jan. 10 – Rod Stewart (65); Jan. 14 – Jason Bateman (41), LL Cool J (42); Jan. 16 – Kate Moss (36); Jan. 17
– Jim Carrey (48), Muhammad Ali (68), James Earl Jones (79); Jan. 18 – Kevin Costner (55); Jan. 19 – Dolly Parton (64); Jan. 20 – David
Lynch (64); Jan. 21 – Geena Davis (54); Jan. 24 – Sheila Robinson (65), Neil Diamond (69); Jan. 26 – Wayne Gretzky (49); Jan. 28 – Elijah
Wood (29), Sarah McLachlan (42); Jan. 29 – Oprah (56), Tom Selleck (65); Jan. 30 – Gene Hackman (80); Jan. 31 – Minnie Driver (39).
012009
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| Asialife Phnom Penh 93
unplugged
The QuizMaster
In the Mood
for Dancing?
1. Which dance of French
origin is often associated
with Orpheus in the
Underworld ?
2. Which dance was named
after a street in London
SE11?
3. Which song was playing
when the men started to
dance in the dole queue in
the film The Full Monty?
4. In The Bible, who did
‘The Dance Of The Seven
Veils’?
5. In the film, ‘Mary
Poppins’, what kind of
animated birds did the actor
Dick Van Dyke tap dance
with?
6. What is the name of the
ritual dance performed by
the New Zealand All Blacks
Rugby Team before every
game?
7. Harry Fox is often
credited with introducing
which dance to the world in
1914?
8. Who won the Hong Kong
“Crown Colony Cha-Cha
Championship” in 1958,
the year before he returned
to his birthplace, San
Francisco?
9. What is the national
dance of Brazil?
10. What type of dance is
the subject of Baz Lurman’s
1992 film?
Let’s Talk about
the Weather
11. What was the title of
Margaret Mitchell’s only
novel (as if we give a
damn)?
12. In Herge’s ‘Adventures
of Tin-Tin’, what was the
name of his dog?
13. Which Whirlwind visited
Cambodia in 2003?
14. Which film saw George
Clooney battling against the
‘ideal’ elements at sea?
15. Which song, by The
Kinks, was at No 1 in the
charts the same month
that England won the 1966
World Cup?
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ISSUE37
Sudoku
16. What was Don
Johnson’s character
nicknamed in Miami Vice?
17. Whose first album was
titled Raintown?
18. Which 1971 thriller stars
Clint Eastwood as a DJ?
19. Which pop group had
hits with the songs ‘Lucky
You’ and ‘Sugar Coated
Iceberg’?
“This issue’s puzzle is rated ‘piece of cake’. A great one for those of
you just getting started in the Sudoku world – or for those of you in
need of a boost of self-confidence. The quickest way to tackle this
puzzle is to start with the middle box and work outwards. Or for a
challenge – try to beat Gwang Ching Lee’s time! Enjoy.
And sharpen your pencils – next month we’re throwing you a tough one!
5
20. Where does Dorothy
Gale travel to?
1
9
Mothers
21. According to the
proverb, what is ‘The
Mother of Invention’?
22. What name is given
to the central printed
circuit that controls the
main components of a
computer?
23. Which actress, born
in 1927, and famous for
showering, is the mother of
Jamie Lee Curtis?
24. Who is the deceased
mother of Peaches, Pixie &
Fifi Trixibelle?
27. In Greek tragedy,
which king married his own
mother?
28. Debbie Reynolds, who
appeared in Singin’ in the
Rain, is the mother of which
actress and novelist?
29. Joseph Conrad, of
Heart of Darkness fame,
was born in what is now
Ukraine, became a British
subject and wrote in
English. What was his
mother tongue?
30. The band The Mothers
of Invention are associated
with which legendary
musician?
Answers on page 50
4
5
9
4
1
6
3
6
8
1
9
7
5
4
7
5
9
7
2
9
6
5
5
8
25. Who was Queen
Elizabeth I’s mother?
26. What was the name of
Spock’s mother in the TV
series ‘Star Trek’ being also
the name of a late 1980’s
pop group?
8
4
9
2
5
7
9
3
2
Level: Super Crazy Easy
Gwan Ching Lee’s time: 2 mins
Answers on page 50
Quote Unquote
Music
“I understand the inventor of the bagpipes was inspired when
he saw a man carrying an indignant, asthmatic pig under his
arm. Unfortunately, the manmade sound never equalled the
purity of the sound achieved by the pig.”
— Alfred Hitchcock
“It’s easy to play any musical instrument: all you have to do is touch
the right key at the right time and the instrument will play itself.”
— J.S. Bach
“I don’t know anything about music. In my line you don’t have to.”
— Elvis Presley
“Talking about music is like dancing about architecture.”
— Steve Martin
“I like to think of us as Clearasil on the face of the nation. Jim
Morrison would have said that if he was smart, but he’s dead.”
— Lou Reed
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