Assembling IN-16 Nixie Clock „Marcel“ by Mr. Nixie

Assembling IN-16 Nixie Clock „Marcel“ by Mr. Nixie
Assembling IN-16 Nixie Clock „Marcel“ by Mr. Nixie
Congratulations for purchasing this stunning IN-16 Nixie Clock „Marcel“. For successful assembly of
the clock please read the following helpful hints.
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This kit is designed for someone who has advanced experience with assembling
electronics - especially working with very fine "filigree" parts.
If you believe that the kit is too complicated for your skill level please do not try to
assemble it - this generally ends up with a device that is not repairable and results in
you being very frustrated. Please contact the provider and they can offer you other
options that will end in a more fulfilling result!
Take your time - this kit should take 2-3 hours to complete if uninteruppted.
Assembling the kit in a hurry will lead to frustration and the troubleshooting
afterwards takes three times as long.
Ensure your work area is well lit (daylight preferred) and clean.
Electronic tools, such as pliers, small side-cutters or tweezers should be handy. You
will also need a T8 (Torx) or SW2 Allen screwdriver for the housing assembly.
A soldering iron with a 1 mm round tip (maximum) and a 0.8 mm (maximum) fine
electronic solder (lead-free) is required.
For the intermediary function test you need a multimeter with at least 200VDC range.
A loupe to read the small device markings is often helpful.
Assemble the board in the order as stated here - this has been proven and will
minimize mistakes.
It is assumed that you understand that semiconductors (diodes, ICs, transistors) or
electrolytic capacitors are polarized components. Appropriate markings are silkscreened on the PCB and shown on the board schematic.
Together with this construction guide you get some additional helpful documents:
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The schematic of the clock
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A printed operation manual for your Nixie clock. Please keep this manual handy.
A very useful colored landscape hard copy of the parts placement. You should keep this
handy during construction to refer to. All positions of the resistors, capacitors and most of
the semiconductors are shown in different color footprints. For example, when you are fitting
all the 560 ohm resistors, first have a look at the chart. These resistors are shown in green
color. You only need to look for the green resistor footprints in the hardcopy and you can
place them instantly on the PCB in the right position without having to search for "that damn
R20". This provides a huge time-saving advantage.
Safety precautions:
During assembly, operation, measurements and maintenance extra precautions must be taken. The generated high
voltage of 170V is dangerous. Assemble the circuit at your own risk. The functionality cannot be guaranteed when
assembled by the customer. No responsibility can be taken for any personal claims and damages during assembly
and commission, especially for damages based on insufficient technical knowledge.
The clock may only be operated in a solid and moisture-proof enclosure.
The person who completes the kit and assembles this board into an enclosure for operation is considered by the
German directive VDE 0869 as a manufacturer and is required to indicate their name and address including all
documents when selling the clock. Ready-to-go devices, which are assembled from kits, are counted safety-related
as an industrial made product.
Page 1 of 8
Assembling IN-16 Nixie Clock „Marcel“ by Mr. Nixie
Okay, and now, Ladies and Gentlemen, start your soldering irons!
Have you gone over the assembly document yet in its entirety? The assembly and soldering of
this board and components is a bit unconventional. Why? You will see later!
1.
First we will add spacers to the PCB of 15mm and 30mm using the spacers in Bag 9 (see picture
below).
2.
Second we will insert ALL the resistors from the Bag 1 before soldering. Go from the bottom up
while looking at the "parts list" – i.e., first place all 560 ohm resistors, followed by the 680k ohm
resistors, etc.
3.
Now we solder all the resistors at once
anything on the bottom of the PCB yet.
4.
Next open Bag 2 and place all the diodes in the board. Start with the „red“ BAT42, then the
„yellow“ 1N5819 diodes. On the board the cathode of the diode is marked and matches up with
the markings on the diodes. Ensure that you don't confuse the UF4003 (qty 1) with the 1N5819s
(qty 4) - they are visually the same except for the tiny lettering on them. The same applies for the
4V7 (qty 1) and the BAT42s (qty 5). The Zenerdiode is fitted standing UP as shown in the picture
below just above C2 (capacitor 2) on the right side of the board.
5.
Solder all the diodes from the TOP as well. For the 4V7 Zenerdiode you can obviously only
solder the bare anode from the top - you will need to solder the cathode from the bottom. It is
critical that the Zenerdiode be installed as shown below - there is only 6.5mm clearance from the
board to the top of the enclosure. Ensure that the loop is no higher than that.
from the TOP of the PCB!. We don't solder
Printed Circuit board with spacers, resistors and diodes installed
6.
Now turn the board over and cut all the leads from the components very short. Solder and then
trim the Zenerdiode's cathode terminal.
Now you understand why we soldered all the resistors and the diodes from the top of the board?
Think about how difficult it would be having everything soldered on the back in such a tight space
- the chance of a short between pads would be very high. It also allows us to trim the leads much
closer to the board the help with the bottom clearance. This seemed like a great project to do
things "differently" from convention! Do you agree?
Page 2 of 8
Assembling IN-16 Nixie Clock „Marcel“ by Mr. Nixie
7.
Now populate the 6 LEDs in the board. The longer lead is the anode and should go through the
hole on the board marked with an "A", the cathode is marked with a ring. Insert the LEDs all the
way so they are flush with the board. Bend the wires on the back just enough so that the LEDs do
not fall out easily. Do not solder them yet!
8.
From Bag 3 we will be inserting all the multi-pin IC's - the MC34063A step-up converter and the
Russian K155ИД1 decoder. Do not fit the18 pin PIC16F628A yet. The pins tend to be splayed
slightly wider than the width of the socket on the PCB. Gently fold the pins inwards a little until the
two rows lie parallel with one other. The easiest way to do this is to hold each end of the ICs
between thumb and forefinger, then with one row of pins pointing away from you and resting on a
hard surface, gently rotate the IC thus folding all the pins down one side inwards together. All ICs
are supplied with no sockets due to the height limitation of the case - they must be
soldered directly to the board. But what happens if you need to replace an IC or a tube? I’ve
used a trick here! Notice that all the holes for the multi-pin components (ICs, MOSFET (except
the drain), and tubes) are designed as if it were a one-sided PCB. There are no pads or lands on
the top of the board. Therefore in case of board maintenance these components can be removed
simply by using a solder braid on the bottom of the board and easily replace the components.
9.
From Bag 7 we will install the coil (L1). Apply a small amount of solder to
one of the corners of the pad (shown to the right). Then put the coil on top
of this and heat the pad again allowing the solder to flow and hold the coil in
place until the solder solidifies. Solder the remaining 3 corners of the pad to
complete the circuit and make it look symmetric.
10. Next we install the MOSFET IRFD220 - pay attention to the drain. The drain is the one side of the
MOSFET that has the 2 leads connected together physically. The MOSFET must be installed so
this thick "single" leg is at the top/back of the board. Please solder the drain both from top and
the bottom of the board for additional heat dissipation. Go ahead and solder the other 2 leads
(gate and source) from the bottom.
11. Next we install the crystal (Q1) and the two TO-92 voltage regulators - 78L05 (IC6) and the
LM317 Estek (IC3). Be very careful not to mix these two up! The LM317 Estek has an oblique
"E" printed on it. Refer to the board schematic and triple check the placement of these 2 ICs.
During installation of voltage regulators and transistors:
Press these components as close to the board as possible - there can be no more than 1 mm of
space between them and the board to ensure that the overall height within the enclosure is no
more than 6.5mm.
12. Install all 8 MPSA42 NPN transistors from Bag 4 (you will be left with a spare).
13. Install all 6 MPSA92 PNP transistors from Bag 5 (you will be left with a spare).
14.
Now you will use the rubber feet from Bag 8 along with (4)
5x8 screws to assemble a quick "anti-slip" surface.
15. Now is finally the time to turn the circuit board over and solder
and trim all the components up to this point (ICs, tube LEDs,
crystal, voltage regulators and all MPSA transistors).
16. Next we go to Bag 6 and install all the capacitors. Start with
the two "yellow" 27pF capacitors right above the crystal, then
the "green" 220pF and then the "red" 100nF capacitors (10). Once again, please ensure that all
the capacitors are pushed down as close to the board as possible (clearance). Now install the
SuperCap (C17) - note the polarity on the component and board silkscreen. Go ahead and solder
the negative lead from the top of the board.
Page 3 of 8
Assembling IN-16 Nixie Clock „Marcel“ by Mr. Nixie
17. Next we will install the electrolytic capacitors. Please note they are installed horizontally! First,
properly install the capacitors in the board and ensure the polarity is correct - the negative
terminal has a ring around it and the positive terminal is marked with a "+". Looking down from
the front of the board the negative side of the electrolytic capacitors should be facing to the right
(also refer to the board schematic). Install the legs through the terminals and bend the capacitor
90° down so it touches the board (for the 10 µF) - the 2 larger
capacitors (1 µF and 330 µF) have recesses in the board where they
are placed (see picture). Solder all these capacitors in from the top of
the board. Now you can turn the board over and solder all the rest of
the remaining capacitors in place from the bottom. Make sure the
1 µF and 330 µF capacitors (C13 and C6) are flush with the back of
the PCB.
18. Next we will install from Bag 7. Please install the DC socket as shown in the pictures below.
The alarm buzzer (Snd1) is inserted from the bottom of the board and
soldered on the bottom per the picture to the right. Carefully bend the
two wires at right angles to the outside of the buzzer and solder onto
the appropriate solder pads (polarized).
Next install the Polyfuse (R34). Here as well we need to install the
component and bend it down onto the board at a 90° angle so its
sitting on top of the bank of diodes (D5-D8). Please ensure that no
wires will create a short.
Next install the Trimmer (TR1) - install the axle before mounting onto the board. Then install the 3
switches (S1-S3).
19. We are now ready for our first functional test! For this test we disassemble the spacers we have
used before and keep them for later.
Perhaps you noticed on the back of the board 2 pads that are marked with "HV" (directly under
the coil) and "5V" (directly under the 78L05 voltage regulator). Hopefully you did not bridge these
two gaps yet! If you did bridge them already, please remove the bridges for this first function test.
Please first look all over work area. Are there any parts left except for the 2 spare transistors and
the PIC-processor? Please compare your board wit the following picture. Are all components
correctly fitted, except of the PIC-processor as stated before? Please also check all your solder
joints and ensure they are correct.
Page 4 of 8
Assembling IN-16 Nixie Clock „Marcel“ by Mr. Nixie
Note: This picture shows all components fitted – incl. the PIC-processor. This is only for
reference and should not be fitted at the actual stage !
20. Create a non-slip mat under your board - a dry towel is perfect for this.
21. Plug the adapter into the DC jack and the plug for the AC adapter into the wall socket.
Warning: There is now high voltages running through parts of the board, especially at
the top of the MOSFET and the 1µF 350V electrolytic capacitor.
Is anything strange happening? Are there any popping noises, smell of burning components or
smoke? If so disconnect power immediately and look for the cause!
22. Operate the trimmer (TR1). The six LEDs should be (or begin) to glow and randomly start to color
cycle independently. The trimmer should dim/turn off the LEDs. Please ensure that the trimmer
functions properly - it should control the LEDs from off to full brightness.
23. Troubleshooting steps:
The trimmer does adjust the brightness, but the LEDs don't look right or they don't light up at all.
Please check the area around T15 - especially ZD1. Please ensure that this is actually the
Zenerdiode and it is installed with the correct polarity. Is there a short circuit caused by solder?
Has the Polyfuse (R2) triggered or is it very hot? If so you have a solder bridge somewhere on
the board in the power supply circuit.
Are your LEDs installed properly? You should be able to see that the black chip inside the LED is
sitting on the anode terminal.
The trimmer adjusts the brightness only a very little or is reversed.
In 99% of the cases this indicates that you have IC3 reversed or it is the incorrect voltage
regulator.
Page 5 of 8
Assembling IN-16 Nixie Clock „Marcel“ by Mr. Nixie
24.
Now set your voltmeter to at least 200VDC and check the following test points. For ground
use any of the 4 spacers on the outside 4 corners of the board.
On the left lower corner of the board:
Measure the „5V“ test point. It should be: 5.3V + 0.2V.
On the top of the board on cathode from the UF4003 diode
Measure the „HV“ test point. It should be between 165V and 175V.
Are your voltages not correct? Please check the yellow areas shown in the picture below very
closely and ensure that every part is installed correctly and all the solder joints are good
Please do not continue if your voltages are not in line with the above measurements.
You will cause damage to the board and possibly to yourself.
25. If all voltages are correct please disconnect the DC plug and create solder bridges on the two
jumper pads (5V and HV) to connect them.
26. Plug the DC plug back into the board. Do the LEDs still light up and begin color cycling? Is
anything hot or is there a smell of anything burning? If no, Excellent!
So we will do some additional voltage measurement:
27. Turn around the pcb so that you’re looking onto the solder side. Leave now the DC connection
plugged in so that the circuity is running. Be aware of the working step-up converter and the
generated high voltage!
Connect your multimeter again to ground and with the other probe measure the voltage on every
pin of the PIC-processor socket. The range should be between -1 … +5V, but it may be no more
than +5.5V.
If the voltage is much higher on one pin of the PIC-processor socket than eventually the anode
driver or the MPSA transistor has an internal short or you have a solder jump at the connected
anode driver stage. Unfortunately it is not uncommon for some MPSA transistors when
connecting high voltage supply to short circuit. I included 1 spare transistor each for this reason.
If there’s a fault, you should check the transistor with your ohmmeter.
Please do not continue if your voltages are not in line with the above range. You will cause
damage the PIC-processor when later fitted.
28. If everything is ok you should now solder the remaining PIC-processor. But first disconnect the
clock from DC power. When soldering and touching the PIC’s pin with the iron tip sometimes the
buzzer will give a slight noise.
Page 6 of 8
Assembling IN-16 Nixie Clock „Marcel“ by Mr. Nixie
Assembly of the Tubes
First we are going to swap the spacers (again) for the board.
Please refer to the picture on the left. You should have 6 tubes
that came with the kit. The anode terminal of the Nixie tube is on the back of the tube. This wire is
marked internally with a white shrink tube. Take an abrasion proof pen and mark where this
wire is on the spacer/socket as shown above.
29. Now slide the tube sockets carefully
towards the end of the lead wires
and turn the tube so that your mark
(anode terminal) lines up with the
notch that is silk-screened onto the
board for each tube. Place the tube
socket on the PCB - the LED in the
board will help as a pilot to ensure
correct spacing.
Slightly twist the tube very carefully back and forth while the
socket is flush with the board. The goal is to route the tube
wires through the PCB. Be patient! This step takes time and
a calm attitude. If you are having trouble spend some time to
ensure that the wires are reasonably straight without any
bends or kinks. When you finally feel that the wires have all
fallen into place, slowly push the tube down so it rests on the
socket and all the leads are through the board. This is
perhaps the most difficult part of the board assembly - as stated before, take your time during this
step and don't get frustrated. After the tube is inserted double-check to make sure the anode
connection is in the correct hole on the PCB. If all is well, slightly bend the wires so the tube
doesn't fall out after all that hard work. Do the same procedure with the other 5 tubes now! At this
point you don't need to worry about vertical alignment (see picture above) - that happens next.
30. Now carefully place the acrylic tube mounting assembly
over the top of the tubes - note that it only fits one way.
Be careful - acrylic is very rigid and it is easy to break if it
is bent too much. Secure the mounting frame to the
spacers with four M2 5x8 screws. The next step is to take
the 15mm spacers from the bottom of the board and one
by one install them on the top of the tube mounting
assembly (note picture to the right). Use the screw from
the top to secure the board to the bottom 30mm spacers. This will allow you to now solder the
tubes while their position is held in place with the tube holder.
Page 7 of 8
Assembling IN-16 Nixie Clock „Marcel“ by Mr. Nixie
31. Before you solder the tubes you need to do any last minute
adjustments to the tubes. Check the alignment from every direction are they all lined up with respect to the internal number filaments? If
need be twist them a little left and right to ensure that they are lined
up. Ensure that they are firmly seated in the socket as well with slight
pressure on the top of each tube. Go ahead and turn the board over
now. For each tube, take 4 wires evenly spaced around the circle (as a
clock is, 12, 3, 6 and 9). Solder those 4 wires to hold the tube in place.
Do this for each of the 6 tubes.
32. Cut all the remaining leads to a short distance to make soldering the rest easier. After soldering
ALL (78!) leads go take a break and come back and visually check all solder joints. Fix any
bridges or visible cold solder joints. The wires are at least 20 years old and a layer of oxide has
built up on them. It might take a bit more time than normal to get them to solder correctly. After
all the soldering is done trim all leads back down to as short of a distance as possible.
Take apart the board and take the 8
(4x15mm and 4x30mm) spacers and tube
mounting assembly and store or throw away
- they will not be part of the final assembly.
Take the protective film off of all the acrylic
parts at this point. Take the 4 rubber feet and
4 flat head screws and (4) M3x10 threaded
spacers from Bag 8 and screw the feet onto
the bottom of the enclosure as seen in the
picture on the right. Hand tighten only. Place one of the two acrylic
outside edges as seen in the picture above along with the four small
black spacers and slide them into the corners of the assembly so they
line up with the holes in the bottom piece. Place the board carefully on
top of the spacers - pay special attention to the DC jack - make sure the
lip lines up correctly as show in the picture to the right. Screw the board
down through the spacers into the acrylic bottom with the 4 self tapping M2 5x6 screws. Please
do not over tighten these as the acrylic will crack.
33. Place the final outside acrylic piece on top lining up with the identical bottom part and place the
top over that. It should slide over the tubes without disturbing them. Please ensure that all 3
buttons and the trimmer in the back are through their holes in the top of the case. Lightly screw
the last 4 remaining flat head screws into each of the four corners and ensure that there is no
component within the case that is higher than 6.5mm - you will see this if the acrylic top starts to
flex at any point as it comes into contact with the components. If this happens you will need to
decide if you can lightly bend the particular part to gain some clearance or if you need to resolder
some components (hopefully not!). If you need to resolder please take the board entirely out of
the enclosure - the heat from the soldering iron would cause the clear acrylic to become milky
white.
34. Finally! The last step is to plug the DC plug
back in and enjoy your creation! The clock
starts with 0:00:00 and begins to count forward.
The first tube on the left should not light up as
the option for "suppression of leading 0" is
enabled by default. Press the left "mode" button
as a quick test - this displays the alarm time
and you should see the tube on the left light up
with a "0".
Well done! Now you can enjoy your self-created masterpiece.
For operating the clock please read the included Owner's Manual.
Page 8 of 8
IN-16 Nixie Uhren Bausatz / Nixie Clock Kit „Marcel“
Tüte
Bag
Inhalt
Content
1
Widerstände
Resistors
2
Dioden
Diodes
3
IC’s
MosFet
Quarz /
Crystall
4
MPSA42
5
MPSA92
Stückliste / part list
Bauteile
Description
100R
2k4
33k
680k
560R
4V7 Zenerdiode
ZD1
D4
UF4003 Ultra fast switching
1N5819 1A schottky
BAT42 Small signal schottky
LED 3mm RGB autochange
LM317 ESTEK TO-92 Adjustable Voltage Regulator
78L05 TO-92 Fixed 5V Voltage Regulator
MC34063A DIL 8-pol. Switching Converter
PIC16G628A DIL 18-pol. Clock-Processor
K155DI DIL 16-pol. BCD-Decimal-Decoder
IRFD220 HEXFET 4-pol. N-Channel MosFet
Quartz 4,000 MHz HC49/U-S Crystal
Transistoren MPSA42 NPN TO-92
Transistoren MPSA92 PNP TO-92
T2,T4,T6,T8,T10,T12
10µF 16V 4 x 8 mm
C1,C2
C6
1µF 350V 6,5 x 12 mm
330µF 16V LowESR 8 x 12,5 mm
C13
Kondens.
C17
SuperCap 0,33F 5,5V
Capacitors
C3,C4
27p • „270“ oder / or „27“
220p • „221“
C8
C5,C7,C10,C11,C12,C15,C16,C18,C19,C21
100n • „104“
Spule / Inductor 330µH
L1
DC-Buchse / DC jack
BU1
R34 }
Polyfuse 500 mA
R34
Div.
Trimmer / Potentiometer 2,5k
TR1
Elektronik
Steckachse / Shaft 10 mm
TR1
Summer / Buzzer
SND1
Taster / Push Button Switches
S1,S2,S3
Plastik Distanzröllchen / Small Plastic Spacer 2,5 x 2
Mechanik
Selbstschneidende Schraube / Self-Tapping Screw M2,5 x 6
für Gehäuse
6-Kant Flachkopfschraube / Flathead Allen Screw M3 x 8
Enclosure
Abstandsbolzen / Spacer M3 x 10
Mechanics
Gummifüße / Bumpers
Schlitzschraube / Slotted-head Screw M2,5 x 8
Röhren-Mont.
Abstandsbolzen / Spacer M2,5 x 15
Tubes Mount.
Abstandsbolzen / Spacer M2,5 x 30
Kunststoff-Röhren-Montagehilfe / Plastic Tubes Mounting Tool
Röhren / Tubes IN-16
Acryl-Gehäuse komplett / Complete Acrylic Enclosure
Leiterplatte / Printed Circuit Board
Schaltnetzteil / Switching Power Supply
Gedruckte Bauanleitung / Printed Assembly Manual
Gedruckte Bedienungsanleitung / Printed Owners Manual
Aufkleber mit Serien-Nr. / Label incl. Serial no.
C13
6
7
8
9
Code
Ref.
R17,R18,R23
R13,R15,R21,R24,R33,R35,R36
R1,R3,R5,R7,R9,R11,R14,R16
R2,R4,R6,R8,R10,R12,R19,R20
R22,R25,R26,R27,R28,R29,R30,R31,R32
ZD1
D4
D5,D6,D7,D8
D1,D2,D3,D9,D10
LED1 … LED6
IC3
IC6
IC5
IC4
IC2
T14
Q1
T1,T3,T5,T7,T9,T11,T13,T15
C17
Stück
Pieces
3
7
8
8
9
1
1
4
5
6
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
8+1
6+1
2
1
1
1
2
1
10
1
1
1
1
1
1
3
4
4
8
4
4
4
4
4
1
6
1 Set
1
1
1
1
1
Bauanleitung IN-12 Nixie-Uhr Manuela
Seite 8
5
4
3
D5
1N5819
BU1
5V3
C15
100n
D6
1N5819
D7
1N5819
HV
R2
680k
5V
OUT
GND
C13
330u
HV
H1
IN-16
Hx10
T1
MPSA42
1
A
5V
D9
BAT42
R1
33k
R23
100R
R36
2k4
HV
R22
560R
1
T2
MPSA92
D10
BAT42
D8
1N5819
D
5V0
IC6 78L05
IN
R34
0.5A
C16
100n
2
R20
680k
R4
680k
C17
0.33F
R19
680k
H2
IN-16
Hx1
HV
T4
MPSA92
D4
UF4003
T3
MPSA42
C10
100n
L1
C5
330uH 100n
1
2
3
4
T14
IRFD220
SC
DC
SE
IS
TC VCC
GND CI
8
7
6
5
R6
680k
R18
100R
C6
1u
C8
220p
R21
2k4
C7
100n
HV
H3
IN-16
Mx10
T6
MPSA92
T5
MPSA42
IN
IC3
OUT
ADJ
LED1 RGB auto
R28
560R
LED2 RGB auto
R29
560R
LED3 RGB auto
R30
560R
LED4 RGB auto
T7
MPSA42
R31
560R
LED5 RGB auto
R7
33k
R32
560R
LED6 RGB auto
R8
680k
R26
560R
C21
100n
C19
100n
Sockel der Röhre von der Lötseite
Tube socket shown from solder side
R10
680k
R33
2k4
ZD1
HV
H4
IN-16
Mx1
1
HV
H5
IN-16
Sx10
T9
MPSA42
4V7
1
R35
2k4
D1
BAT42
S2
SET
D2
BAT42
SND1
S3
MODE
R16
33k
HRSx10
HRSx1
KEY-INPUT
MINSx10
MINSx1+ADV
SOUND
SECSx10+SET
SECSx1+MODE
MCLR
NEONS
XTAL1
BCD-A
XTAL2
BCD-B
BCD-C
GND
BCD-D
4
C3
15
C1
10u
27p
16
A
C4
27p
Q1
4MHz
T11
MPSA42
VDD
13
5
H6
IN-16
Sx1
T12
MPSA92
IC4
14
12
2k4
D3
BAT42
HV
1
5V3
11
10
9
8
7
6
R14
33k
R11
33k
5V3
T13
MPSA42
17
18
1
2
IC2
74141
PIC16F628A
3
6
7
4
5
1
4
of
A
B
C
D
GND
Rev
1.1
Sheet
13
12
11
3
8
7
6
4
9
2
5
10
0
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
DL
DR
13
12
11
3
8
7
6
4
9
2
5
10
0
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
DL
DR
13
12
11
3
8
7
6
4
9
2
5
10
0
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
DL
DR
13
12
11
3
8
7
6
4
9
2
5
10
0
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
DL
DR
13
12
11
3
8
7
6
4
9
2
5
10
C
B
C12
100n
16
15
8
9
13
14
11
10
1
2
A
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
12
Document Number
in-16 clock marcel.dsn
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
0
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
DL
DR
D
2k4
IN-16 Nixie Uhr Marcel
Date:
13
12
11
3
8
7
6
4
9
2
5
10
R13
3
Title
Size
A
VCC
R15
R12
680k
5
C11
100n
A
R9
33k
S1
ADJ
5V0 C2
10u
A
T10
MPSA92
T15
MPSA42
B
A
T8
MPSA92
-
TR1
2k5
LED
C18
100n
R24
2k4
R27
560R
+
R25
560R
1
R5
33k
C
LM317L
A
R3
33k
IC5
MC34063A
R17
100R
1
0
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
DL
DR
1
3
2
1
Bauanleitung IN-12 Nixie-Uhr Manuela
Seite 8
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