1 Table of Contents
Table of Contents
Salt, pepper, sugar, vinegar
Introduction
Gastrique and Caramel
Amuse Bouche
Pickles and Gelée
Raw and Marinated
Juices/Vinaigrettes
Just Warmed
Herb’s and Rhiozomes
Soups and Custards
Jams and Confitures
Cold Foie Gras and Charcuterie
Fat’s: flavored oils, flavor enhancer, cooking medium
Pasta: stuffed, tagliatelle, risotto, lasagna
Spices and Spice Mixes
Light or braised Fish and Shellfish: lobster, scallop, frog legs
Crusts and toppings: flavors, texture and finishing
Roasted Fish
Stocks and Sauces
Offal, Braised Meat, Hot Foie Gras
Marinades, Cures and Brines (smoked products)
Roasted Meats
Chutneys
Cheese
Cooking with Alcohol
Dessert Soup or Custards
Dessert
Mignardise
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Glossary/Index
Twelve courses
Amuse Bouche
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Chipped beef on toast—steak tar tar with black truffle sabayon on brioche The
toast is cooked in butter, and the tar tar flavored with red onion, mustard,
cornichon, and capers tops the toast. A small round of black truffle tops the tar
tar while salted black truffle butter tops the bread. Finally, the chipped beef sits
on top of black truffle sabayon. The dish is simple and elemental with flavors
that would stimulate and awaken the most fatigued palate. Garnish with pepper
cress to add peppery clarity.
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beef tartare on quail egg “one eyed jack” Here is a miniature diner special of steak
and eggs. The bread is toasted in butter and bacon fat and the egg cooks in this as
well. A light pan sauce from roasted meats garnishes the toast and the egg, while
a quenelle of steak tar tat rests on the side hole to be eaten with the sunnyside egg.
2
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Savory parfaits: squash and truffles; potato and truffles; cauliflower and caviar,
lobster, smoked salmon These light parfaits have the flavors of their key
ingredient, while also using a fondue of flavors in the bottom of the parfait to
accentuate or highlight the parfait. Similarly, the tops of the parfaits are dusted
with spices, salts and other toppings to add texture to the dish.
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Egg yolks whipped and strained then cooked for 15 seconds on sil pat in 350
degree oven to mimic pasta sheets(serve with caviar or other delicate sauces or
emulsions) Technique for making flourless pasta. Delicate and flowing
handkerchiefs
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Finnin hadie with quail egg as and amuse Simple English breakfast: smoked
haddock, potato puree, green olive oil, spiced crouton with olive oil, baby spicy
greens in lemon vinaigrette
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Cantal eggs with egg white mousseline over the yolks Ethereal mousse over rich
egg yolk with gamey cantal cheese
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Fava bean panna cotta with mint gelée Essence of spring highlighted by marinated
fava bean salad(brunoise) on top of gelée
3
•
Liquid filled petit fours savory or sweet set in either clear or dark gelatin make
hot or cold filling can be solid or smooth: vinegar filled with foie gras gelée on
outside, corn gelée with lobster bisque filling excellent simple amuse or hors d’
oeuvre Technique and visualization are both appealing. Secondly its always fun
to get surprises as well as desert first
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Frog in a hole with frog legs, quail eggs and brioche toast Saute frog legs in bacon
fat and season with smoky spices Play off childhood breakfast, dipping the hole
in the yolk
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Sea urchin(panna cotta) with oyster gelée and perilla, or lobster gelee with black
truffle salad A more adventurous beginning to a meal, put both accompaniments
tame the more assertive flavor of the sea urchin and make it an enjoyable
beginning.
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Lobster panna cotta with sauternes gelée The flavors work its that simple A
topping or savory ice cream or sorbet will make the dish go over the top—or
perhaps a small marinated lobser knuckle salad with orange brunoise and burnt
sugar dust to emphasize the flavors
4
•
Quail eggs baked in walnut shells with walnut cream and bacon: whimsical vehicle
to serve egg, further more nut is the egg of a tree. Garnish dish with pickled wet
walnuts
•
Slow cooked salmon bennedict: salmon roe, crispy skin, slow roasted salmon, dill
and lemon hollandaise Eggs benedict done solely with salmon. Classic flavor
combinations Use skin as English muffin—dish is also flavor packed hors d’
oeuvre
•
Black truffle tapioca pudding(gratinee) savory or sweet As an amuse bouche or
pre dessert the flavors are decadent and luxurious. Furthermore twisting the idea
of tapioca pudding—a traditional diner comfort. Use black and white tapioca
pearls for further visual stimulation.
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Steak and eggs: steak tar tar on quail egg cooked in brioche toast, tar tar steak or
fish with caviar, and bacon and eggs could be toro tar tar with caviar, or quail egg
in bacon crust. The salt of the caviar is a balance for the rich meat or fish. Note
the dish is similar to the frog in a hole.
•
Egg terrine: 12 eggs, 4 yolks, half a quart of cream, 8 sheets of bloomed gelatin,
minced shallots and butter( keep eggs creamy and use as filling for something in
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order to have runny scambled egg center) explore adding gelatin to raw egg yolks
and season as filling The egg terrine is very Japanese in flavor and texture. It’s
versatility is as varied as an egg itself.
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Cucumber panna cotta or bavarois or mousse(apply to other flavors)1100 ml
cucumber juice, 500 ml heavy cream whipped to medium peaks, 150 ml egg whites
whipped to soft peaks, 7 sheets of bloomed gold gelatin(2 grams each but with
power of 3), lemon juice, salt and tobasco. Bloom gelatin in one third of the
cumber juice then melt in microwave. Combine all cucumber juice and let set till
thick syrup. Fold egg whites into juice in three additions. Fold cream in the same
fashion. Set mixture in bowls or small containers Dish is light and flavorful.
Great accompaniment to fish tar tar. Fun with caviar or smoked salmon
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Cauliflower ice cream or semifredo with caviar or a sauté of foie gras, toasted
almonds, curry, apple and lemon confit or lobster or sweet maine shrimp with
lovage Ice cream as an amuse. Unexpected and with the hot topping, it becomes a
savory sundae.
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Savory shortbreads
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Black truffle pain perdue: grated parmesan, balsamic, truffles, sauce perigord
French toast. Make sure to really soak the bread so that it is extremely custard
like when cooked.
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Bottarga with quail egg Breakfast cereals as an amuse bouche The flavor is like
bacon and eggs while the concept is a duet of eggs.
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Fromage blanc and tomato fool Make the fromage blanc very light and tangy and
coat with a concentrated tomato gelée. Could be in a bomb mold.
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Flavor scrambled eggs with infused cream: truffle, shrimp, lobster, foie gras,
parmesan, herb. Technique based in that one must focus the flavors of dishes and
get the most out of each ingredient. Furthermore, all infusions use the trimmings
or scraps of products thus limiting waste.
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Potato blini with cauliflower cream and caviar How to make the flavor of the
cauliflower intense but light? Make infused cream with cauliflower, then strain
and cook more cauliflower in the cream strain and do one more time.
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Potato blini with tarragon mousse( crème fraiche, Dijon and tarragon) and sweet
maine shrimp salad Tarragon and shrimp, crème fraiche and blini
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•
Basil mascarpone sorbet with balsamic tomato tartlet Concentration of flavors in
the guise of desert—use battara sushi mold or sushi mat to form tartlet.
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Dill blini with red beet tar tar(or tapioca) with orange zest and sumac yogurt—will
work with smoked salmon tar tar as well Flavors are the key and interest in this
dish. Dill is very refreshing and cleans up the sweet unctuous nature of the beets
while the yogurt and sumac add creaminess and tang.
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Tomato butter with blini Dish needs further examination
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Savory crème fraiche ice cream with caviar Ice cream early in the meal is both a
shock and its cold creaminess is a comfort food and can put people at ease.
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Coddled egg with butter and cream and either caviar or truffles Eggs are a perfect
vehicle for carrying luxury flavors and textures
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Quail, pheasant, pintade, or silky chicken egg yolks poached en cocotte topped
with caviar Another technique in cooking and serving eggs, further more an
examination of the qualities or virtues of different eggs.
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Quail eggs baked in mini tartlets Top with quiche flavorings and a mini quiche is
born with a runny middle, the best part of an egg.
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Black or white truffle panna cotta Luxury needs appropriate garnish.
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Quail egg in tarragon gelée with country ham Eggs in gelée are part of classic
French cuisine, also with the country ham we have the popular ham and eggs.
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Eggs with truffles and ementhal The flavors of the ementhal enhance the flavors
of the truffle.
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Bacon “mousse” with egg yolk sauce, potato foam and bread crumbs Diner
breakfrast done differently
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Rice soft boiled eggs and top with caviar Flavors and textures mix together—
becomes great spread on brioche
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Petite waffle with mustard or horseradish ice cream with salmon tar tar Waffles
hold melting ice cream which accompanies the salmon tar tar perfectly.
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Salmon belly “bacon” with salmon caviar Bacon and eggs while utilizing salmon
belly
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Poached pheasant egg with caviar and sea urchin sauce garnish with shaved
bottarga Three types of eggs from three different areas in nature with three
different textures
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Sourdough based blini Blini with bottarga tomato butter Saltiness balances the
tomato and the blini is the vehicle with a tang to carry the flavors.
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•
Toasted almond milk panna cotta Raw fish, truffle sorbet, green bean salad with
crispy trout skin in lemon vinaigrette.
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Warm poached egg in beurre monte Technique for gently warming and cooking
ingredients.
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Juxtapose temperature and texture of traditional arrangements as well as
borrowing qualities and attributes of ingredients to allow them to fit the
mold designed for traditional ingredients Important idea in keeping ideas
fresh.
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Finish scrambled eggs with whipped cream or crème fraiche and butter to lighten
Technique to be used in reference to making eggs
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Blini with candy cap mushrooms(maple essence) and bacon or bacon emulsion
The flavors or the mushroom further enhanced with toasted curry will mimic
maple syrup such that we have savory pancakes with bacon
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Chestnut and porcini savory “mont blanc” amuse Use infused cream to make
balls in the layers. Make chestnut tuiles with braised and pureed chestnuts dried
on a sil pat. I really enjoy mont blanc the pastry so much so that the idea of
borrowing the flavor and principle for an amuse makes sense
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•
Baby eggs benedict with smoked salmon and sorrel Troigros made salmon and
sorrel famous. The acidity guts through the fattiness as does lemon in hollandaise
sauce. Thus with this we have classic in flavor and principle doubling as an
amuse.
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potato doughnuts with: an ossetra “bavarian cream”/ truffle/ eggplant and curry/
mushroom duxelles/ herbed butter/ smoked salmon Use potatoes, sourdough in
doughnut base. Potatoes are an excellent neutral yet rich base for presenting other
heady or decadent ingredients. The idea of using doughnuts as an amuse is playful
and can take the edge off a fancy or presumed pretentious meal.
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polenta “waffles” with: mascarpone and truffle “syrup”/ lobster salad/ caviar/
smoked salmon/ melted leeks I used to eat eggo waffles as a kid for lunch or
dinner. They are comforting and simple. For me they were initially a vehicle for
carrying butter and warm maple syrup. As an amuse they provide a casual
integration into a meal. Furthermore, the accompaniments are complemented by
the polenta waffle with its nuutiness and buttery flavor from the corn
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three minute egg salad with brioche toasts and: chive creme fraiche/ truffle fondue/
lobster hash/ brunoise vegetables/ caviar/ smoked salmon/ bacon fondue/ tallegio
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Egg salad, rich, decadent, simple. Neutral in many ways in so that it will be the
lead character but allow the supporting cast to attain stardom.
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chestnut farinette with: currant butter and oven dried apples/ celery root
“mousse” and cèpe dust/ fig jam and prosciutto butter Chestnuts are fall and
sweet. Their nuttiness, their perfume, their starchiness allows them to be made
into a these panckes and complement seasonal star ingredients.
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buckwheat with caviar Buckwheat blini with caviar and crème fraiche. This
needs to be supplemented by either a variation on one of the three key ingredients
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potato “pancakes” with truffle flour and chestnut or truffle “chips” Use truffle
flour to make pancakes and provide an underlying truffle flavor and scent. Again
we have the flavors of potato and truffle which are one supports the other.
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assorted root vegetable blini according to season with assorted chutneys and dried
fruits Hilight the starchiness and sweetness of the vegetables while
complementing fruit or meat chutneys.
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poached quail egg with shiitake mushroom hash. Hash and eggs, while the toasted
flavor of the shiitake fulfills several characteristics: toast and meat.
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chestnut glazed quail egg with black truffle dust Infuse a sabayon with chestnuts
and then glacage and garnish with truffle dust. The flavors are all heady and rich
taming the palate at the beginning of the meal and fulfilling the need for a quick
flavor overload before proceeding with the meal. Like warming an oven, priming a
flue, or warming up race car tires.
Raw and marinated fish/ vegetables
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Artichokes with cornichon vinaigrette and quail eggs The artichokes are enlivened
by the small bits of cornchon in the vinaigrette which was made with the artichoke
braising liquid. The quail egg should be deviled and dusted with smoked paprika
to give a meatiness and smoothness with all the acidity. A similar thought would
be to pickle the quail eggs, yet in this dish there would be to much acidity.
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•
Sea urchin tempura with hamachi tar tar The tempura of sea urchin allows the
flavor of the sea to explode in your mouth either with the first several bites of tar
tar or further along in the dish. The sea urchin could also be pureed and made into
a cromesquis which then the flavors could be tweaked and balanced. The tar tar
should or could rest on a bed of marinated rice noodles for a final texture and
flavor profile.
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Nantucket bay scallops with pickled lambs tongue Wrap tongue around scallops
or thinly drape over. The dish mirrors the party snack scallops and bacon but
hear we have sweet and sour interplay with the addition of raw and cooked both
served cold. A delicate mayonnaise emulsion with mustard or horseradish will
finish the dish along with
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Mustard and prune or mustard prunes vinnaigrtette The spicy and the tannic
quality of the prunes provide a balance which when thinned out will dress greens
or raw fish like miso or pickled plum puree but with spice.
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Live scallops with pickled watermelon rind A crisp texture of shaved watermelon
rind with its acidity and smoothness will enliven the scallop just dressed with sel
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gris and olive oil. The reason for the gray salt is its firmer explosive texture which
will make the scallop dance.
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Mackeral with gooseberries and bacon I like the smokiness of the bacon to bring
to life the charred flavor af the mackerel and the sweet and sour gooseberries will
clean the dish up while the verjus gelée mimics the flavor of the gooseberries while
engaging in another texture the explosive gelée.
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Raw tuna with putanesca garnish Raw tuna is served with wasabi or other spicy
and salty ingredients. Here the flavors of putanesca, the heat, capers , olives and
anchovies are a fun way to enliven and season beautiful tuna. Either the flavors
can be mixed into the tuna like a tar tar, or a flavor paste or sauce can be made
which one can smear on slices of raw fish. Gelatin noodles could be a fun addition
to the dish in that pasta and putaneseca are the traditional pairing.
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Dandelion green salad with quail egg, mbaby lardoons and morel vinaigrette A
small bitter play off frisee au lardon
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Fish with beets, ginger and horseradish Beet tar tar topped with sliced fresh fish.
The beets seasoned with ginger and horseradish are both rich and cleansing and
provide a seasoned vehicle for presenting the fish perhaps golden eye snapper.
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Bacon, lettuce and tuna(could also use tomato in dish)works with trout as well.
First inspired by dish at March years ago. Salad course which has texture, flavors,
aroma taste and familiarity.
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Sweet maine shrimp(potted) Small little pots of maine shrimp to spread on
country toast. Flavors are tarragon, lime and jalapeno to awaken and tease the
palate. Serve dish with deep fried heads as well( like potato chips on a sandwich
for crunch.
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Tuna tar tar with lychee nut gelée and fresh wasabi The gelée lubricates the tar tar
while also adding sweetness and the wasabi cleans the dish up while punctuating
the flavor of tuna and lychee. The flavors are refreshing and calming.
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Salmon tar tar with pinot noir gastrique: caramel gastrique, wine, rosemary,
balsamic Who says red wine doesnet go with fish. The reduction will add
acicidty, sweetness, bitterness and herbal undertones to the fatty salmon mixed
with evo and shallots with fleur de sel. The fish can be served with nasturtium
leaves which will give a final peppery crunch
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Hamachi cube with sour plum jam and fresh tumeric vinaigrette The sour plum
and the tumeric which should be pickled cuts through the fattiness of the tuna.
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Garnish dish with chick pea sprouts or onion sprouts or both. The sour plum is
tangier than pickled plum.
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Potato caraway tuiles or crips A garnish for raw fish or oysters or on a plate to
accompany raw tuna salad like the country club lunch with pickles and wheat
toast(hear we use wheat croutons)
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Tomato with sea urchin semi fredo or mousse The technique in making the sea
urchin semi fredo( lightening but concentrating flavor. The tomatoes acidity cuts
through the iodine and richness of the sea urchin. The tomato should be in the
form of a smoked tomato gelée to add a little more complexity. The gelée can be
balanced with dashi which has the undertones of sea, vegetable and smoke.
•
Foie de lotte with sea foam, green tea, hoisin sauce, sesame and evo, pickled
burdock and asian pear apple, bean curd skins, miso and green onion vinaigrette,
toasted curry and salted tofu Inspired by dish from papillon unsure of actual
origins.
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Spiny lobster with sesam/evo vinaigrette Just warm the vinaigrette over the
lobster tail slice. Enliven with toasted ginger, garlic and chile balanced with yuzu
juice.
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Celery root remoulade with mustard seed vinaigrette The pickled mustard seeds
give pop to the crunch of the celery root
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Daikon radish: soy, ginger, garlic, green onion, sesame(accompany raw fish) The
daikon is marinated in this broth thus the flavors are intertwined. Serve slices of
the daikon and the fish alternating layers, garnished with the marinade, evo,
toasted sesame seeds and green onion
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Fluke wrapped around sweet maine shrimp with sesame, evo and yuzu vinaigrette
The crispness of the fluke meats the creaminess of the shrimp. Use the head as
the garnish and dot the plate with a shellfish caramel gastrique made with the
shrimp shells.
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Lobster en escabeche The key is the marinated vegetables and the last minute
addition of sliced lobster and fresh herbs. The olive oil should be bitter and grassy
to balance the sweet lobster and pickled vegetables.
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Raw fish chowder flavored gelée and foam: oyster, clams, tuna or samoln tar tar,
crab meat, sweet maine shrimp, sea urchin To gain the creaminess of chowder we
need the technique of using clam and other shellfish broth in gelée ot then make a
foam. The other characters in the chowder should be seasoned and tossed with
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evo, fleur de sel and herbs at the last second. The addition of flavored gelée cubes
in the bowl will add texture, flavor and depth to the chowder then covered with
the sea foam. Garnish with tobasco and black pepper dust.
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Raw oysters with pickled ramp gelée and foie gras fat The gelée is important here
for the oyster retains its fresh briny nature and the gelée explodes acidity as is
melts on the tongue. The creamy and nuttiness from the foie fat is the secret to
the dish for with out it the dish would fall flat. Inspired by the traditional oyster
and sausage or oyster and foie gras.
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Perilla(shiso) with crab meat, avocado, lime, jalapeno, and cumin Cumin adds
depth to what is added to. Shiso while cleansing also has strong cumin
undertones. Thus the two together in the dish add a duality of cumin which
covers and balances a larger flavor spectrum. Furthermore, avocado and cumin
bring out the richness and toasty nature in each other.
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Abalone with Brittany seaweed The sea and the sea while from different areas the
flavors will complement and the texure of the seaweed will be similar but less than
that of the abalone
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Monkfish liver with fresh wasabi Mustard and pate. Smearing the two together
on country bread at cocktail parties. Here we have the same concept but with
pate from the sea and a less modified mustard
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Escabeche of red mullet with quince paste The membrillo adds sweet, acid and
texture to the marinated fish and its vegetables. The membrillo should be either
diced like the vegetables or served in a thin sheet like a window over the fish. The
salted marinated fish will resemble the flavor profile of manchego cheese the
traditional accompaniment to quince paste. In the escabeche also use pickled
quince to add another layer of flavor.
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Sardines with pumpkin confit Soak the sardines in vinegar for twenty minutes
then marinate in olive oil for up to several days. The sardines need the sweet and
sour of the confit of pumpkin. Furthermore the addition of sezchwaan pepper
adds heat to the pumpkin and balances the sardines. Garnish the plate with a
orange roasted garlic emulsion and season the fish with ground up pepitas( salt
and lime)
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Watermelon slices with tomato jelly(with seeds or make straight gelée of seeds to
simulate caviar) season watermelon with evo, aged balsamic. Serve with rawfish,
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scallops, lobster, softshell Watermelon and tomato balance with sweet, sour
acidity and texture. Their combination makes a more complete flavor which in
turn balances the fish etc.
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Hamachi tar tar topped with tuna cubes and caviar, with chervil jelly, fresh wasabi
and thick soy These are flavors and textures dancing together. The caviar adds
salt and pop, the tuna is texture and feel while the hamachi is smooth and fatty
like a potato puree. The thick soy is a concentrate and the chervil jelly is a
refresher while the wasabi punctuates the entire dish.
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Razor clam with sea foam and spring onions Accent the dish with fermented
black beans as well. The clams should be just cooked and thinly sliced and
marinated. The cooking liquid should be chilled and balanced and stabilized with
gelatin. The thinly sliced green onions tossed in lime vinaigrette complete the
dish.
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Hamachi with horseradish cloud Technique using gelain to stabilize horseradish
juice. Attempt to emulsify sesame and olive oil to mellow the punctuating heat
and acidity of the horseradish. The puff of the cloud should give way to the firm
fattiness of the hamachi.
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•
Boulabase terrine with saffron foam and fennel pollen A chilled concentrated
boullabaise. The gelatin holding it together should be agar agar so that if we want
to it can be warmed slightly or also that it will have no animal product at all.
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Tuna and champagne gelée The gelée helps sauce and coat the tuna rather than
mixing with extra fats we add oil to garnish the dish. The gelatin lubricant
provides a silky mouth feel as well.
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Nasturtium leaves and the pods(faux capers):steak tar tar, calamari, fish The
spiciness and their availability allows for their inclusion in many dishes
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Monkfish liver with sea bean vinaigrette The sea beans are just bound by an
emulsified vinaigrette so the sauce is thick and each bite gets vinaigrette and sea
bean. Light pink and green visually appealing on the plate
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Raw tuna with yuzu gelée, soy reduction and spice The gelée both lubricates and
seasons the tuna. The fresh acidity of the yuzu gains texture and mouth feel as
well as becoming a more physical vehicle for presenting its crisp acidity.
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Scraped toro tar tar with basil, lemon confit and fleur de sel Here the fattiness of
the toro is emulsified or nearly for the scraped toro becomes very finely minced.
In many ways we have a raw tuna burger
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Salsa crudo with raw oysters the vegetables are just shaved or cut and are young
enough so that their freshness is appreciated raw. These vegetables could be
bound with an acidic gelée so that they will act as a sheath for the raw oyster. Or,
the oysters in their shells could be arranged on the plate with the vegetables and a
seasoned with salt and pepper while tableside the vinaigrette is poured.
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Red and green shiso with hamachi and tuna tar tar The cleansing aspect as well as
the underlying spice make this dish refreshing and simple. The dish is finished
with a lime juice and lime pickle vinaigrette to accentuate an underlying spice
without overpowering the raw fish.
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Smoked tomato gelée The smoking of the tomatoes for the gelée adds character to
the tomato without taking away from the simple sweet nature of the tomato.
Similarly the smokiness adds a hidden meatiness or umami to the unsuspecting in
the gelée.
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Sweet and sour octopus with passion fruit and beets served in passion fruit shell
Texture and acidity are the inspiration for the dish as well as wimsy in serving it
in the passion fruit. Pay close attention to balancing the acidity of the passion
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fruit with evo, rice vingegar and green onions. The octoupus should be cooked in
the Japanese manner so that it retains its neutral nature and firm tenderness.
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Pineapple and mint vinegar or vinaigrette with hamachi Pineapple and mint have
an acidic and cleansing nature providing the balance with the fatty fish.
Furthermore the natural sweet and sour tendencies allow for the savory
preparation of the pineapple and mint.
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Hamachi and prosciutto fat tartar The melting shaved tender fat of the prosciutto
has a salty creaminess which compliments the hamachi. Tammarind and lime
paste provide the acidic and bitter finish to clean up the dish.
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Herring with apple and beetroot seasoned with cinnamon, onion and clove Sweet
spices and apples and beets want to compliment the yogurt marinated pickled
herring. There exists creaminess with earth and the bright crisp apple.
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Petit pickled vegetables with raw fish Acts like an instant escabeche. Hear is
another place where fruits like apples and grapes can be folded into the mix and
treated as a vegetable.
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Ceviche of octopus with capers and green olive vinaigrette Two dark green purees
with similar but distinctly different flavors. The octopus should be tossed with
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olive oil and lemon zest with black pepper and a pinch of Japanese sea salt
allowing the majority of the seasoning to come from the accomapanying purees.
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Cured anchovies: marinade(shallot, peppercorn, lemon jus and zest, salt,)first
remove head and guts, then rinse. Lay on marinade for three hours then drain and
cover with evo (they should keep three days) apply technique to sardines but cure
one day. Technique important to know Recipe needs testing and adjusting
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Wasabi gelée make warm or cold and serve with: crispy bone marrow, tuna tar tar,
steak tar tar or pickled herring The wasabi gelée is technique oriented in that one
must make the right ratio in the gelée. Also, the vision behind the gelée is to tame
and evenly spread the flavor of the wasabi.
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Fluke sashimi with capers and lemon confit Capers and lemon belong together and
are used in veal or chicken picatta. In this instance they are just warmed and used
to season thinly sliced fluke. A micro parsley or herb salad will provide the
valuable cleansing needed to complete the dish.
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Hamachi with lime and jalapeno oil Lime, jalapeno and salt balance each other and
act as a seasoning base for other fattier or substantial ingredients. They also when
25
combined make a simple spicy vinaigrette base which is useful in dressing raw fish
particularly the fatty portion of hamachi
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Coleman’s mustard oil The technique in making the oil as well as its usefulness in
adding an intense mustard touch at the last minute or without the additional
acidity of prepared mustard. Can also use in conjunction with pickled mustard
seeds to make a focused mustard vinaigrette.
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Use gelée to lubricate tartars or cold fish and shellfish salads: sake, verjus, apple,
pineapple, champagne, ginger, sauternes Technique and idea to be explained in
beginning of chapter or first use of gelatins.
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Red pepper sorbet with picholine tapenade and tuile A refreshing interlude or
part of a composed salad. Need to explore similar taste combinations which will
generate interesting sorbets and their toppings.
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Fennel sorbet with nicoise olive tappenade and garlic tarragon tuile Use orange
roasted sweet garlic for the tuile and use slowly roasted fennel and fennel juice
with vitamin c for the fennel sorbet, balanced again with orange juice and flecked
with orange juice.
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•
Monkfish liver with nasturtium leaves The leaves should be small and lightly
dressed, and they should float in a light sauce of thinned miso with green onions
and sesame seeds black and white toasted. Further more the sauce should have a
balanced acidity with undertones of the asian trinity:garlic, ginger, jalapeno
•
Calamari linguini or baby squid with salsa verde The salsa verde has flavors of
land and sea as well as balanced acidity which will compliment the richer texture
and taste of the calamari. The calamari should sit in the form of a nest with a
space in the middle for the salsa verde. Garnish the dish with toasted pine nuts
and a confit of long lemonzest. Black pepper’s heat should be focused in the
dish—perhaps in a light marinade of the calamari with evo, salt, black pepper and
lemon juice gelée. Technique in making calamari by cleaning squid then pressing in
sheets and freezing and then shaving on a slicer. Cook calamari for this dish in
toasted garlic oil.
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Watermelon rind mustard fruits Porous nature should pull in spicy syrup.
Mustard fruits can then be used for seasoning or garnishing limitless numbers of
dishes
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•
Mayonnaise emulsion for cold froths—blank mayonnaise with white pepper—
thinned with: lobster stock, apple juice or cider, mint, lime, lemon The technique
in using a neutral mayonnaise to make cold froths is important. Furthermore a
light richness can be added to numerous dishes. The flavor combinations and
spectrums are limitless—think black truffle mayonnaise thinned with truffle juice
and served with steak tar tar.
•
Pickled bamboo shoots with ginger and garlic The asian theme in the flavor and
the ingredient is important, yet with these flavors the pickled bamboo shoot gains
an understated familiarity.
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Chickweed salad: use with tuna, eel, foie, salmon The lemony woodsy flavor of
the chickweed helsps cut through the fattiness of these main ingredients. The
small salad should feature brunoise onions in order to add another dimension to
the finished dish.
•
Mint, basil, and pickled ramp pesto with hamachi or tuna tar tar The mint and
basil should both be blanched and shocked first before being pureed with pickled
ramps and evo. The tar tar should be tossed with minced pickled ramps and olive
oil. The pesto will sit in a hollow in the middle of the tar tar. The plate will be
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garnished with a smoked tomato gelée which will add a meaty smokiness to the tar
tar and pesto. Also garnish the plate with toasted pinenuts(just this side of
burned)
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Technique: soak sardine filets in seasoned vinegar for twenty minutes to dissolve
pin bones then cover with miripoix vegetables and evo Note that you should try
and remove the pin bones gently but without mutilating the fish.
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Shaved calamari with arugala puree The arugala is blanched and combined like
pesto with toasted walnuts and lemon to season the puree. Make nest with space
for the pesto. Line the plate with several slices of lemon confit
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Sardines with shiso and mint oil The medicinal nature of the shiso along with the
cumin undertones will be highlighted by the clean mint oil and the fatty rich
sardine. The shiso should be baby green and red and the sardine should be served
on either a slice of lime marinted avocado with sel gris or I believe it is chayote the
creamy fruit like vegetable which has a custardy but neutral interior.
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Octopus with saffron soy vinaigrette and shiso The soy sauce is warmed and
infused with saffron, bruoise red onion and blanched lemon zest. Secondly the
acidity is balanced with lemon juice and rice wine vinegar and the heat is added
29
with several dashes of crystal hot sauce. The octopus is thinly sliced and the
vinaiegrette is brushed on, and drizzled with lemon oil. Finally baby shiso or
shiso chiffonade garnishes the plate. The saffron and soy work very well together
and combining them with octopus and shiso ingredients or flavors from both the
Spanish and Japanese kitchens completes the assimilation.
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Octopus with black truffles Make thick broken black truffle vinaigrette with soy
sauce and sherry vinegar to nape the octopus. Land and sea meat with rich and
poor. The heady truffles with the neutral rich and tender octopus make a great
balanced duo. The dish needs a reduced oloroso sherry syrup to garnish the plate
and really connect the truffles to the octopus. A charred radichio will add a final
bitter and toasty element to the dish, yet how is will be incorporated is yet to be
determined.
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Braised artichoke salad with ramps, clams, fresh bacon or tongue Spring—lamb
tongue pickeled, marinated ramps, braised artichokes which also provide
vinaigrette base enhanced by pickled ramps and the dish is cleaned up by a ramp
top puree or oil
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•
Smoked sardines and anchovies Cure fish then give a qick cold smoke to give an
underlying richness—try smoking with herbs or hay or dried wild fennel
branches rather than wood which would overpower these small fish
•
Quail eggs in meat or game gelée(like liquid filled gelée petit fours Traditional eggs
in gelée made on a micro scale—serve with truffle and celery leaf salad in truffle
vinaigrette and on a pool pf celery cream
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Potato gougeres with caviar and crème fraiche These are similar to the potato
doughnuts with a slightly more airy texture which will highlight the explosive taste
of caviar and crème fraiche
•
Sheeps milk yogurt with salmon tar tar The tangyness of the yogurt cuts through
the fatty salmon. The yogurt is seasoned with dill and sumac(with its citrus
notes) two flavors which compliment the salmon. The tar tar is further enhanced
by crispy salmon skin seasoned with dill salt
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Sheeps milk yogurt panna cotta with beet tar tar and sumac tuile The yogurt is
creamey and light which provides balance to the earthy beets and is similarly
accentuated by the sumac in the tuile. The beet tar tar should be seasoned with
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accents of fenugreek and onion seeds to slant the flavors in the direction of the
Indian kitchen without overshadowing the flavor of the three key players.
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Fig carpaccio: peel and seed then flatten petals between plastic wrap The
technique of peeling and seeding the fig and using its membrane as either a carpacio
or a skin intrigues me. Serve as part of a dish with ver jus foam, marinated golden
raisins and shaved fennel salad
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Use grated daikon in salad dressing The grated daikon will absorb the flavors of
the vinaigrettes and dressings and thus allow them to be used as a souce or a puree
at the base of a salad or to garnish fish and meat dishes
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Violet flower and mint jelly: one half a cup of violet flowers, one cup packed mint
leaves, two tablespoons white wine vinegar, four cups of sugar, one three ounce
package of liquid pectin I found the combination ot the violets and the mint to be
intriguing. They will cut through fatty and rich foods, but will also highlight
vegetables either in the form of a tar tar or a glaze
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Basmati or rice tuile—over cook rice, puree and tammis then use as batter These
tuiles versatility is the first point of intrigue to me. They can be seasoned with
endless flavors and be used as a crust or tuile or cover for fish, meat or soup
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courses. They can be molded and they are easy to make. One can even make a
coarser tuile if the texture is desired.
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Potato and sardine terrine with mustard gribiche The potatoes are a neutral foil
for the rich marinated sardines, while the mustard gribiche adds dexture, and spice
contrasts which enliven both the potatoes and the sardines
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Raw fish with celery leaf and heart salad with anchovy dressing and black truffle
Elements of ceasar salad with the clean tastes of raw fish and the luxurios
headiness of black truffles just warmed in evo seasoned with fleur de sel
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Sausage spice(fennel, mustard, coriander, cumin, thyme, rosemary, sage,
worscheshire, black pepper) rubbed tuna with onion and pepper salad Sausage
and peppers meets a raw preparation with the marinated pepper and onion salad.
The spice rub is toasted and slightly cures the outside of the fish while the interior
remains raw and pristine. The acid and olive oil from the marinated peppers and
onions provide the proper balance to cut through the fish. The fish should be
garnished with sel gris and shaved bottarga to bring the smokey and salty flavors
to the for front of the palate.
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•
Savory citrus panna cotta with crab meat or fish The panna cotta should be silky
and taste like a light just geled aioli such that when you take a bite of the crab or
fish its silkiness and creaminess accentuate the delicate clean taste of the fish while
also adding the luxurious mouthfeel.
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Marinate diced red and gold beets separately in evo, salt and pepper, lemon juice
and lemon oil The key to these marinated beets is the lemon oil which focuses or
frames the flavor of the beets.
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Lobster salad with banyuls vinegar, melons and feta Use a banyuls syrup to
garnish the plate as well. The focused sweetness will lift the flavor of the melon
and lobster while the vinegar punctuates flavor and the feta salts the dish.
Sarawack pepper and allspice grated tableside will bring the nose into the dish as a
secondary assalt on the senses.
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Beets with parsley and cilantro The parsley and cilantro produce a fuller rounder
flavor together rather than individually. The parsley is clean and slightly
medicinal while the cilantro is floral and slightly soapy which when married with
parsley produces a finished taste which in turn allows the flavor of the beets to be
earthy, rich and also dependent on the herbal cleanliness of this duet of herbs.
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•
Raw fish or raw marinated clams with linguini of fresh seaweed Linguini with
clam sauce is the initial inspiration and starting point for the dish. The seaweed
should be dressed with parsley, lemon and toasted garlic oil while the clams
should be glazed with a gelée of their juices to exclamate their intense briny flavor
in conjunction with the salty crisp and essence of the sea seaweed.
•
Use Japanese rice seasonings for raw and cooked fish The Japanese rice
seasonings with the multitude of flavors from shiso to sesame seed to orange zest
act as an intense flavored salt to brighten raw and cooked fish and to give a touch
of mysterious sea flavor to what they are applied
•
Lobster ceviche—champagne, passion fruit and lime The champagne should be
poured over the ceviche at the table so that the foam causes the marinade to
bubble and foam over the lobster. Similarly a delicate champagne foam can be
made and used to top the ceviche so that the alcohol will be cooked out but the
flavor remains as does the froth increased by the canister.
•
Frozen grated daikon radish as pedestal for raw fish(freeze vinaigrette as well.)
The fozen shaved daikon will resemble a snow ball which can then absorb
35
vinaigrette as well as keep the fish extremely cold. The dish will look like either
funky sushi or miniature snow balls draped with colorful fish.
•
Cumin flavored rouille with crab meat: baked potato, roasted pepper, saffron,
garlic, chiles, lemon, evo The cumin and the paprika will mirror the flavors of old
bay but with a more focused and fresher sense of flavors.
•
Smoked eel and guacamole terrine Needs to be made in small mold to prevent
oxidation. The stability of the terrine may require the addition of gelatin to the
guacamole
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Gastrique of tomato seeds and pommegranite molasses to serve with hamachi The
tomato seeds and the pomagranite molasses combine to produce a texture like
caviar with elements of sweet, sour, and bitter and with the addition of salt the
hamachi with its fattiness and rich texture give a sense of umami. A drop of
habanero oil with its fruity undertones will complete the dish save for onion
sprouts
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Hamachi with spicy quince gelée The spices needed are both sweet and piquant
for they will coexhist with the rich hamachi. The gelée should also have an acidic
balance for the aroma of quince are extremely floral and sweet, and will need the
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balance. The idea for the gelée with the fish comes from some of the floral
attributes of rice which is often served with raw hamachi. The gelée will be a
softer foil than the textured rice allowing the hamachi’s texture dominate and the
gelée will wash it down.
•
Raw fish with soybean, lime, cilantro, jalapeno puree The flavors are that of
guacamole while the soybeans, particularly salted soybeans are served at most
sushi bars. Thus we are enlivening the flavor of salted soybeans and making a
smooth puree with which to season raw fish. The final addition to the dish will be
a topping of marinated tomatoes and onions(two essentials to guacamole)
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Raw hamachi with red and white wine syrups Red or white wine with fish that is
the question. The reductions of two wines a pinot noir and a chardonnay reduced
slowly and balanced with salt sugar and spice until a syrup develops which is not
bitter but merely the essence of the two wines. The fish in three slices will be
flanked by the sauces so that one can try the fish with each sauce as well as both
together. Season the fish with evo and fleur de sel and let the wine syrups
complete the dish.
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•
Oyster with caviar gelée set on plates or in bowls Make oyster liquor gelée and
fold in caviar and set in molds or in the bottom of bowls. Use gelée as a base for
dishes or a surprise in a dish.
•
Hamachi with lemon zest and saffron infused soy sauce: saffron, lemon zest,
togarishi, evo, rice vinegar, honey, black pepper The balance of saffron and soy
and the universal flavor of lemon in many cuisines inspired this intense aromatic
sauce for hamachi.
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Hamachi with lemon oil and lemon confit Here lemon in several guises seasons the
hamachi. The confit adds salt and acid while the oil smooths the citrus flavor and
helps transfer the flavor of the hamachi and the lemon.
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Hamachi with green olive/olive oil puree Green olives and green olive oil have an
intense salty, briny , peppery acidic quality which balances with the fatty clean
hamachi. The use of green olives in a green olive oil was the initial inspiration for
the two flavors together are greater than each individually.
•
Calamari linguine with sea urchin sauce and lemon confit The chilled sea urchin
sauce with the calamari linguin came from a cold soba noodle dish of sea urchin
and soba on a hot summers day. The addition of lemon confit cleans up both the
38
urchin and the calamari. Small baby shiso leaves will garnish the dish and present
the serene nature which came over me when I ate the original dish.
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Pickled baby cucumbers with blossom A quest to have micro gherkins put with
their blossom still attatched for visual and textural ideas.
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Wasabi marinated razor clams The fresh wasabi is tossed with the just poached
slices of razor clam, a reduction of the cooking liquid provides salt, and olive oil is
used for fat and a flavor carrier. Furthermore, yuzu juice is folded in for acid and
the clams ared served on sesame leaves with toasted sesame seeds and a few drops
of sesame oil.
•
Marinated seafood with green shiso broth and hot black pepper oil The shiso is
blanched and shocked and then pureed with a light dashi broth and strained. The
result is an herbal cleansing sea broth to compliment the marinated shell fish. The
hot black pepper oil perfumes the dish with pepper and takes the slight chill off
the seafood at the last minute in order to allow the flavors to blossom.
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Savory parfaits :lobster cream, lobster gelée, sauternes whipped cream and
creamed cauliflower This is a decadent approach to lobster or other crustaceans.
The flavors will very slightly but the differing levels of richness with the seafood
39
make the dish a success. These parfaits need spicy tuiles either cayenne or
Chinese red pepper to help cut the rich flavors and to balance the seafood. A
small herbal salad should accomapany the parfaits to provide needed accents to
the parfaits as well as clean the palate between bites.
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Salad: morels marinated—lemon, orange, evo and soy then grilled and mixed with
fava beans, fresh pecorino, shaved truffles and dressing: evo, balsamic, soy ginger
The first flavors of spring and the last of winter combined in an artful salad
•
Bacon and cumin vinaigrette with lime and avocado salsa, shiso and a quail egg
Cumin and shiso and cumin and avocado started bringing the flavors together, then
the smoky cumin lead to bacon which some how always leads to eggs and a
perverse Mexican breakfast was formed. The addition of raw fish or meat would
not be out of the ordinary with the flavors mixing on the plate.
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Horseradish cured fish Salmon and horseradish go together, so why not start the
process off by curing the fish with salt sugar and fresh horseradish. Let the
salmon and horseradish mary early in this case and let the horseradish be a
background but a building flavor in the dish.
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•
Raw fish crumble: salmon with mustard seeds; tuna with avocado and pepitas
Crumbles comfort. The outer crust with its texture and the soft fatty smooth
interior with perhaps the texture and concentrated flavor of dried fruits. In the
case with the raw fish the topping is toasted and sprinkled on top ot the fish tar
tar at the last moment. The fish are combined with creamy elements, avocado,
sour cream to mimic the melting nature of a traditional crisp and the topping will
change from toasted rye bread with sea bass to crumbled pepitas with tuna and
avocado.
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Lobster terrine bound with herbed gelée The herb gelée is a lobster stock reduced
and clarified and finally infused one last time with the herbs which were used to
make the initial stock:fennel, tarragon, thyme, rosemary, orange zest. The need
for the extreme addition of herbs with the lobster is that the sweetness both
blends with the herbs, and needs the herbs to elevate its flavor. The terrine is
garnished with a lobster coral mousse and an herb salad. The coral mousse is
flavored also with lemon and cayenne like a rich lobster hollandaise with stability.
The mousse can be spread on the terrine to futher highlight the flavors. Finally
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the terrine is seasoned with lobster salt( a reduction of the lobsters internal juices
till they are a complete dry salt)
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Smoked salmon and potato terrine(make in battara sushi mold):four kinds of
potatoes bound with smoked salmon mousse with lemon confit, capers, onions
This terrine can either highlight the different potatoes, their shapes and textures or
it can be a relationship in layers between smoked salmon, potato and dill and
lemon infused cream cheese.
•
Juniper and Clementine syrup with raw fish The juniper with its gin undertones
and the acidic and sweet Clementine syrup acts to season and clean up the fish.
Furthermore the interpretation of the gin and tonic was the initial thought behind
the dish. The syrup should used with a blood orange olive oil to continue the
flavor development. Finally, the fish should be garnished with three citrus zest
Japanese sea salt to bring forth aroma and season the fish.
•
Cerneaux: green walnut steeped in the juice of green grapes and finished with
chervil Need to explore this chutney/pickle when green walnuts are available( note
a very short season) The acidity will go with salads as a base for a vinaigrette
42
•
Honeydew melon and cucumber with spicy octopus The octopus has a rich sea
and spicy quality while the cucumber cleanses and the melon sweetens. Lime
juice will accentuate the flavors of all three main ingredients. Red onion dice
should be blanched and made into a vinaigrette with the lime juice and evo to
season the melon and cucumber. Finally, the octopus should be dressed with
smoked paprika and toasted garlic oil.
•
Rhubarb and beets with blood orange and aged balsamic The just cooked rhubarb
contrasts the melting ly soft beets while the rice vinegar confited blood orange ties
both sweet and sour together. The aged balsamic vinegar brings depth and tamed
flavors to the dish and helps tie the elemental fruits and vegetables together.
•
Creamed beets with caviar and raw fish The beets are minced finely and mixed
with a combination of whipped cream and whipped crème fraiche to add tang and
lighten the base. The addition of horseradish to the beets will cleanse the palate
for raw fish and caviar topping.
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Slice stone fruits like avocado for stuffing and insert foie gras or lobster salad(if
using raw foie gras you can poach in plastic wrap or steam on plates Technique
inspired by who knows now, for stuffing other sliceable ingredients. The fruits
43
allow for a wider spectrum of flavors used and even allow for the incorporation of
hot food.
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Steak tar tar with avocado mousse Avocado mousse has a creamy unctuous
quality that with its heat and seasonings takes the role of an aioli or raw egg in the
dish. The lime and jalapeno in the mousse further resemble the south American
custom of seasoning meat with citrus and chiles. Garnish the dish with charred
bread to resemble the smokiness of grilled meat—season the bread with garlic,
tomato and olive oil, or serve side dish of a chutney with those flavors to smear on
the bread with the avocado enhanced steak tar tar. Make sure minced blanched red
onions as well as green onion chiffonade are folded into the dish.
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Pico rocos: live large barnacles; Robolo: Chilean striped bass Information I choose
not to forget
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Note the intestine of a whelk is its tail; clean abalone by removing the dark fringe,
dark skin and its intestine; poach gooseneck barnacles in boiling stock for five
minutes then remove the leathery skin and serve with garlic butter; cook
periwinkles in court bouillon no more than three minutes Important to have the
44
technique and information behind lesser known ingredients, for it seems most
people know how to peel carrots, but cleaning whelks and snails is differnet
•
Clean octopus: cut off head, remove inside and rinse; cut off eyes; push out body
and cut off beak; clean tentacles and suckers under running water—rub octopus
with grated daikon and rinse; cook for several minutes then marinate serve with
sesame flavored watercress; or blanch octopus for one minute then let it rest one
minute then blanch one minute and rest one minute then cook for five minutes and
let cool at room temperature; or blanch octopus for five minutes then braise in red
wine with turnips, mushrooms and miripoix for several hours and then serve with
beans, sage and whole grain mustard I am intrigued by the many myths and ideas
behind cleaning and cooking octopus. We will test the French braised method and
the Japanese blanched method and use the resulting octopus in varying ways
depending on texture and needs.
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Celery compote with cider vinegar and truffle honey to glaze fish: hamachi, black
cod, scallop The cider and the celery work to form a combination like apples and
celery root. The chutney when mixed with black truffle honey and used to glaze
broiled fish creates a rich and pour, sweet and sour earthy and cleasing dish. The
45
glazed fish can then be served with celery root and apple remoulade with a light
cider and mayonnaise emulsion—or these flavors and glazes can be used with hot
fish as well.
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Garum—anchovy olive pate—olives, anchovy, hard boiled egg yolk, capers, garlic,
whole grain mustard, parsley, marjoram, dill, rosemary, thyme, white pepper, and
evo Old obscure garnishes or chutneys are fun to discover for their initial use will
more often than not vary greatly from how I will use it as a seasoning. Here the
garum will add intense flavor to either raw fish or a carpacio of meat. It would
also be a fun vinaigrette or sauce for an onion and beet salad
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Crayfish and saltcod salad with green tomatoes and red lentils Lemon salsa: lemon
segments, lemon zest, lemon juice, capers, pine nuts, olives finished in brown
butter The addition of parsley and fresh tomato concasse will brighten and finish
the dish. Furthermore the crayfish should be dressed with lemon oil and sit on a
bed of crayfish emulsion
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Hamachi loin cure: salt and sugar, three citrus zests, toasted cracked coriander and
fennel Original influence Tom Colicchio need to explore timing and seasoning and
whether or not cure is necessary or perhaps three citrus can be a nape dressing or
46
further the cure by using lime leaves, orange blossoms and lemon leaves or more
citrus aromatic herbs like thai or lemon basil with cinnamon basil.
•
Cepes with one hundred year old balsamic vinegar Thinly shaved and dressed
with green olive oil and fleur de sel and black pepper and thyme and rosemary
blossoms with one hundred year old vinegar as dots around which can be smeared
with the cepes.
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Hamachi marinade: espellette, evo, garlic, thyme The sweet heat of the espellette
pepper will penetrate the fish and allow it to be served with pissaldiere garnish or
more interesting with melon and lime blossom oil.
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Asian mushroom a la greque: soy, ginger, scallion, cilantro, lime, fish sauce,
sesame, garlic and rice vinegar These marinated mushrooms will provide an
interesting base to a cold broth served around the mushrooms or the e mushrooms
as a salad with water chestnuts and pickled bamboo shoots.
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Pea panna cotta with county ham, Sweet onion panna cotta, carrot panna cotta
The pea and ham is like split pea soup or the French ragu petit pois. The other
vegetable panna cottas are simple flavor bases which traditional or untraditional
combinations can be created in the guise of simple comforting dessets.
47
•
Freeze butternut squash gelée and then grate to form gelatin nests The freezing of
the gelée in individual servings then allows the gelée to be shaved and form nests
when the gelée comes to room temperature for a visual and textural appeal and as a
base for raw fish or part of a marinated squash salad with pumpkin seed oil
emulsion.
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Balsamic vinegar gelée(balanced with glucose) served hot or cold in strips, cubes or
on plate The idea of having the texture of jello with the balanced flavor of
balsamic vinegar to garnish fish raw or marinated. Also the diner can control the
acid as the dish is eaten, thus altering the base flavors so each bite is different.
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Toro with white truffles The ulimate in decadence The headiness of the truffles
with the rich fatty texture of the toro which should be seasoned with fleur de sel,
brown butter and toasted ground sesame seeds then topped with the shaved
truffles.
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Lemon or lime zest and juniper berry sauce for scallops(gin and tonic) The flavor
can be captured in a gelée and topped with a froth or foam to further the idea of a
gin and tonic. The bubbles will also help in the transfer of flavor. Lime salt and
freshly grated juniper berries will pique the palate.
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•
Soy vinegar dipping sauce for crab meat Vinegared crab is the starting point of
thought. The French banyuls vinegar is used and the soy sauce is reduced with
aromatics to concentrate and blend the flavors. Once the flavors are infused the
soy and vinegar are balanced with evo and sesame oil. Finally, toasted sesame
seeds, green onion, minced ginger and minced blanced garlic are folded into the
sauce to thicken it. Add togarishi to increase the heat and clean up the flavors.
•
Arugala and sorrel pesto with tuna or salmon tar tar The arugala should be
blanched for its role and the sorrel can be folded in near the end to retain its bright
color and flavor. Meyer lemon juice and zest will help meld the flavors as will the
addition of sarawack black pepper.
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Pickled corn and watermelon salad: cilantro, caraway, lime, aji panko(also with
hamachi, scallops, lobster or shrimp) The end of summer these flavors are in
eveyones mind. Why not combine them to make a rich and fruity salad to serve
on its own or with seafood. The seasonings balance well with both the corn and
the watermelon picking up their inherent background flavors. That is part of the
key in finishing many dishes is picking up on the background flavors which exist
in ingredients and bringing them to the surface so that they can be recognized.
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•
Frozen ramp pickling liquid shaved over raw fish The melting ice into fruity olive
oil and over the raw fish brings a crisp life to the fish. It brightens the fish for the
acid is added at the last moment and furthermore the crisp ice makes the dish feel
fresher as though the fish is still alive or at least just killed. Chive blossoms
should garnish the dish to highlight the flavor of the ramps and lemon zest will
provide a citrus floral nature which will enhance the olive oil and the fish.
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Striped bass carpacio with lemon and lemon oil, chives and cracked black pepper
Lemon and fish. Yet we need to find a way to get the flavor of the grill into the
dish. Either with grilled baby leeks or to infuse an oil with grilled vegetables
which will then transfer the flavor to the fish. To accentuate the grilled flavor, the
filets of striped bass should be charred on the outside on the grill first before
slicing, like the Japanese blanch fish for sashimi.
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Caviar and labna with chickpeas The chickpeas have to be perfectly cooked. The
firm outside and a creamy explosive interior. The labna is seasoned with minced
red onion, lemon, chives, black pepper, fleur de sel. The caviar is a large quenelle.
The chickpeas are anchored into the labna on the plate and the caviar is domed on
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the chikpeas. Rich and pour, salty creamy earthy—chickpeas are fun. Iranian
caviar and chickpeas two important cultural or at least gastronomic identifiers.
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Steak tar tar with caviar Caviar acts as a salt. Here the salt explodes with flavors
of the sea, but also the brininess pairs well with the rich small diced steak. The
steak should be bound with a light aioli, but should be creamy enough to balance
the salty and meatiness of these two complimentaty flavors. Grilled sourdough
bread brushed with olive oil should garnish the meat thus bringing forth a tangy
undertone, and the flavor of the grill which is more often where steak is cooked.
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Raw tuna pave topped with baby basil, seasonings, lemon oil and shaved cured
striped bass or hamachi(acts like window) Small windows provide insight and
build curiosity. What is really there, can I see everything, there must be more.
This dish allows a layering of flavors and textures but also allows for the
deception or disguise of some flavors and tastes until the person consumes the
fish.
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Lobster salad with artichokes and sorrel Lemon should highlight the dish from
start to finish with a lemon emulsion, lemon zest confit, lemon gelée with sorrel
set in it. The lobster was cooked in a leomon based court bouillon and the
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artichokes were braised in the acidulated broth. Lobster coral enhances the lemon
emulsion, lobster syrup sits under the gelée of lemon. A small sorrel salad dressed
in evo and fleur de sel tops the arrangement.
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Monkfish liver with one hundred year old balsamic A play off a simple garnish
for foie gras. The foie de lotte is also seasoned with Japanese sea salt(a finer
moister texture) fresh wasabi and chives
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Fluke with pink grapefruit, sea salt and one hundred year old balsamic The one
hundred year balsamic marries the texture and crispness yet meaty texture of the
fish with the sweet sour floral flavor of the ruby grapefruit marmalade. A smooth
French olive oil is needed to dress the fish in order to retain the refined simplicity
of the three elemental flavors.
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Tuna pave with grapefruit, mint, togarishi, fleur de sel and lemon oil Flavors
which work in both summer and winter for their seasonality or the refreshing
nature. The Tuna is dressed with the oil first so that the other seasonings adhere
to the oil and remain crisp rather than being coated in the oil. The grapefruit is
confited so that its texture and flavor remain fresh and balanced. The segments are
then cut into triangles for these smaller pieces can be placed randomly on and
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around the tuna. Make sure the grapefruit gets salt and mint on it when garnishing
the dish for these flavors really wake up the palate.
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Pink peppercorn caramel A floral sweet base to season or garnish many dishes.
Grind the peppercorns first and fold into fleur de sel so when the caramel is ready
you can just sprinkle on the seasoning.
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Tuna with baby tomatoes: season tuna: lemon oil, ground crushed red pepper,
fleur de sel, garnish with lemon zest and balsamic reduction for the peeled baby
tomatoes—basil oil, lemon juice, fleur de sel, brunoise red onion, baby basil leaves,
cracked black pepper The elements of summer on a plate. Similarly it’s a tomato
salad which I grew up with eating on Sunday nights in the summer to accompany
and meal. The problem was that the salad would be made and sit on the table until
dinner was actually ready. Yet when it was time for dinner the tomatoes were all
gone.
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Tomato salad with banyuls, mint oil, lemon oil, fleur de sel, cracked black pepper,
and brunoise red onion Peel and slice baby heirloom tomatoes and seaon with
these seasonings save for the mint oil. Reasemble the tomato and serve in a bowl
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with the marinade and juices which leached out. Garnish with mint oil fleur de sel
and baby basil and mint leaves floating in the broth.
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Lobster salad with mustard seeds, greens, candy beets, orange confit(cook like
mustard fruits), zest and emulsion Beets and orange, beets and lobster, orange as a
mustard fruit. The flavors work individually and made sense together the citrus
cutting through the beets and lobster while also enhancing the sweetness. The
mustard defines boundaries and its vinegary heat also enhances flavors. The
orange emulsion adds an acidic fattiness to the dish in order to help the flavors
meld.
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Raw tuna with ratatouille brunoise Marinate the brunoise in a balsamic
vinaigrette, after the vegetables were individually cooked. Finsish the plate with
basil oil while the underside of the tuna is seasoned with basil puree, salt, black
pepper. The flavors in the dish wil explode with clarity while the presentation
remains humble. Furthermore a red onion and balsamic herb vinaigrette will be
used on the plate so that the fish is not coated with acid until the diner chooses to.
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Steak tar tar or fish tar tar: ceasar dressing made like salsa verde(cooked egg yolks)
I go to a steak house and order two staples, a ceasar salad with extra anchovies,
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and a rare steak. The salty acidic umami like character of the cesar dressing is
perfect to coat the rich firm and fatty meat. Serve the dish with garlic rubbed
grilled bread and fresh shaved parmesan and the marriage is formed—happily.
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Raw fish with chanterelles a la greque Chanterelles, good small nutty ones, the
ones which pop in your mouth like popcorn, are essential for this dish. Small
diced miripoix vegetables and great olive oil and sherry vinegar are also necessary.
With these ingredients a mushroom vinaigrette with nuttiness and crispness is
created to season an accentuate clean crisp fish. Pickled mustard seeds will add an
explosive pop and background heat which can then be punctuated by baby
mustard greens tossed with toasted mustard seeds. The flavors are layered and
the dish is completed.
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tuna with petite pickled peppers and warm vinaigrette
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Fenugreek with grapefruit and scallop ceviche Maple syrup and ruby grapefruits
from texas. That was the beginning to a great Saturday morning breakfast. Well
fenugreek(a spice used in fake maple syrup) goes with the grapefruit to complete a
heady sweet and sour flavor profile. Garnish the scallop with evo, fleur de sel and
baby mint or mint chiffonade(like the diners garnish their grapefruits) and the dish
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is complete. For an added crunch make a caramel wafer finished with toasted
fenugreek and maple syrup. Break up and it will enhance flavor and texture.
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Hearts of palm with cilantro, lime and: prosciutto, Smithfield ham, Serrano ham
Hearts of palm come from the tropics so the lime and cilantro made sese.
Similarly I love seasonin or finishing pork dishes with lime and cilantro. Here the
two concepts meat in an exciting salad of salted meat—which further helps season
the braised hearts of palm—and palm dressed with lime, cilantro and jalapeno.
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Lobster coral shortbread The key to the shortbread is making extremely intense
coral butter and then tammising it and creaming it for light shortbread. Here
lobster and butter two flavors seemingly bound by law come together in the form
of shortbread which can then be used with raw or cooked lobster or as a garnish to
a souop or finally as a base to foie gras torchone then topped with a caramel tuile
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Raw Nantucket bay scallops with browned sesame seed butter, lemon juice and
zest, fleur de sel and cracked black pepper Browned butter and lemon have been a
traditional sauce for fish. Here we have added a touch more richness with the
sesame seeds, and we are using the sauce to dress raw scallops. Baby parsley or
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ideally shiso would help mary the hot cold French asian thought process behind
the dish.
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Watermelon salad with lime gastrique and smoked salt(proscutto and melon) The
smoked salt adds a hidden background flavor to the melon seasoned with the lime
gastrique. The spark behind the dish is honeydew melon often served at the
country club with lime or lemon to be squeezed on by the patron. Similarly the
infamous melon and proscutto lent its flavors to the dish. We have moved a
couple ingredients around and come up with an intense melon salad suitable for
vegetarians, but with an intense balanced flavors. Make sure the salt is smoked
with herbs and spices to add nuances to the dish.
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Celery jam with white vinegar and palm sugar: serve with lobster or other fatty
fish The celery jam cooked with the sweet and sour base acts as a refreshing
condiment to fatty fish and lobster. Crispy celery leaves seasoned with celery
salt punctuate the flavor of celery and add a delicate crunch to the dish.
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Celery oil with horse mackerel Also use celery salt and pickled celery hearts. The
mackerel with its oil and fish flavor will stand up to the bracing celery as does
tuna salad need celery to make it complete
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•
Heirloom tomatoes and sorrel These two come from the ground at the same time
of year and their sweet and sour balance each other.
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Salad of fava beans tossed with tarragon and mint gelée(use other herb gelée with
other vegetables The gelée is able to laquer the fava beans and enable each bean to
have a light herbal coating. These coated fava beans can be served as a condiment
to lamb carpacio or as a part of a spring herb and vegetable salad with
complimenting dressings and varying textures.
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White asparagus with sauce gribiche and toasted bread crumbs The bittersweet
asparagus is fattened up by the salty, fatty and sour sauce gribiche. The
breadcrumbs add crunch, salt and spice and help absorb the gribiche and asparagus
juices
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Lime and chile vinegar The infusion of limes and chiles in a neutral vinegar
provides a spiced acid for dressing fish or small salads. The flavor of the chile and
the lime can be controlled in the medium of the vinegar.
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Cumin flavored salt The cumin salt is often used for dipping hard boiled eggs in at
the bar. It is also useful for seasoning deviled eggs or lobster and raw fish to be
accompanied by spices.
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Nigella: black seeds with peppery flavor with a similar appearance to black cumin
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Preserved limes: 1.5 kilograms limes, 350 grams of salt, one tablespoon toasted
crushed coriander, two cinnamon sticks, two bay leaves, one quarter cup of
honey, one cup lime juice, three cups warm water Need to have a method for
preserving limes to be used in seasoning dishes or to act as a condiment.
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Petite salad: Green onion chiffonade, radish chiffonade, blanched orange zest The
salad is good topping to carribean fish or those from Asia. The dressing for the
salad should use lemongrass and cilantro vinegar and oil respectively.
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Tomato and mint tar tar with chile oil and soy syrup Mint and basil are in the
same family so their exchanging in dishes to broaden the flavor horizon is useful.
The chile oil and the soy syrup take the fresh tar tar and put a slight asian bend on
it while still having flavors which highlight the tomatoes. To finish the dish,
pickled bean sprouts provide crunch and a base for the tar tar, while an onion seed
tuile adds crunch and finish to the dish. Salad burnet(cucumber flavor) should be
folded into the pickled bean sprouts to add freshness to the salad.
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Deep fry chickpeas as garnish for ceviche A variation on the practice of serving
roasted corn kernels or pop corn with ceviche in south America. The salty
richness of fried chickpeas compliments the fruity and acidic ceviche.
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Gelée ratio: one cup to one sheet or one and a half sheets to 375 mililiters of wine
These are the results of wxperimenting with gelée and are sample results.
Depending on the use of the gelée from foam to aspic the ratio will and should
change. The page on gelée should demonstrate different applications of its use
from making eggless aioli( use flavored gelée to emulsify oil) to foams to aspics.
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Lemon, parsley, horseradish gelée: tuna tar tar, steak tar tar These three flavors
are refreshing and cleaning while also bracing which in turn will highlight the fish
or meat with its firm sweet fatty characteristics.
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Raw tuna with salsa verde, red pepper and spring onion salad Marinated peppers
and onions refreshed by salsa verde provide a balanced foil for pave’s of raw tuna.
The salsa verde with its anchovies and capers will also add a briny marine like
quality to the salsa verde(think about adding salted kelp to the salsa verde to
really bring out the marine tastes in the crisp fish)
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Avocado mousse: garnish with cilantro oil, lime, soy gastrique, sesame/evo and
jalapeno The mousse with its garnishes provides a base for raw or marinated fish
and shell fish or perhaps a topping for a terrine or timbale. Need to find the
appropriate mate to the base.
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Nut vinegars In fuse the vinegars with highly toasted ground nuts. In this manner
one can extract the flavor of nuts without using the more bracing and rich nut oils.
Similarly, the pickled nuts can be used to flavor sauces or to garnish plates.
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Use crab and lobster body juice as natural gelée or clarifying agent The clear liquid
both forms an aquatic clear gelée to be used to add sheen to fish or marinated
crustaceans. These liquids can also be reserved and whisked into lobster or crab
broths in order to clarfy them. Finally, these liquids can be allowed to gel and
then turned into a foam to garnish dishes. No additional gelatin necessary.
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Crab gelée with sea urchin froth with fish and vegetables and herbs and spices
added to gelée to emulate the sea with life Here the gelée is based on an intense
crab broth, but the sea urchin and the crab body jus can be combined to produce
an ethereal sea urchin froth. The dish should evoke through all senses the sea or a
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tidal pool with sea foam. Make sure several fresh Brittany seaweeds garnish the
gelée or the plate to complete the dish.
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Roasted red and yellow pepper tar tar Use as a base for red mullet or other
mediteranean fish for the mixture of the tar tar should have a similar flavor as
rouille, in fact the tar tar can sit on a small circle of rouille with saffron. The dish
should be garnished with a syrup of sherry and sherry vinegar as well as pesto
puree thinned with more evo.
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Raw fish with three sauces or three types of fish with one sauce or variations on
this theme The idea of this was to run a compare and contrast so as the diner can
experience a multitude of flavors or textures but they are sampling on an even
playing field.
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Two flavored gelée: tomato with baby basil leaves set in the gelée in checkerboard
pattern so one can cut perfect squares: crab with shiso, madiera with truffle,
sauternes with lobster The idea of setting something in gelée goes back to the egg
in gelée of many years ago(need to source origin) as well as the traditional garnish
of herbs set in aspic. In this instance, bite size pieces of gelée accent dishes with
intense flavor combinations. The gelée can also be part of a dish where when
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heated it melts and flavors what it melted into and further releases something of
texture into the dish. For instance, caviar set in champagne gelée as part of an
oyster soup. In fact hopefully the effervescenc of the caviar can be captured in
the gelée as well or at least champagne is used to finish the soup.
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Tuna or toro tar tar cured like proscitutto (serve with melon or figs for traditional
plays off the original) The fattiness of the toro or tuna resembles the marbling in
prosciutto. Thus the salting and peppering of the outside of these raw fish will
firm the outside, but allow the inside to retain its fresh vibrant color and flavor.
The pairing with the figs and the melon are just two common matches for
prosciutto. It would also work with a baby asparagus salad or as part of an
antipasto plate.
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Black truffle speckled gelée with raw fish The truffle will have bloomed in the
slightly warm gelée thus permeating it with its taste and texture. The gelée can be
either a coaing on the plate which acts as a mirror and flavoring device for the
composed raw fish, or it can be set and sliced into paves which the fish can sit on
or which can garnish the fish. Finally the gelée may be scrampled into a mound to
drape the fish over and begin to break down the consistency of the gelée.
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Rhubarb juice foam with raw fish The juice of the raw rhubarb resembles the
acidic nature of lemon juice. When the juice is stabilized with gelatin it can be
turned into an acidic foam which will melt on the tongue and season the fish. To
highlight the rhubarb, lemon oil is used to coat the fish as well as ground allspice
and fleur de sel. Finally, chive blossoms will finish the plate with its oniony
cleansing character.
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Tuna with baby nasturtium leaves in lemon vinaigrette, sheets of soy marinated
daikon, basil oil, fleur de sel and cracked black pepper Black pepper and radish
spice are the driving flavors in the dish. Nasturtiam leaves with their pepperyness
adds bite to the tuna while the soy marinated daikon has a balanced salty crisp
radish heat. The basil oil picks up the basil flavor from the marinated daikon, and
the cracked black pepper explodes on the palate carrying the flavor of the tuna and
highlighting the nasturtium leaves.
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Roasted spiced pumpkin juice with ceviche or lobster The heady sweetness of
the pumpkin is increased by roasting—almost charring—and then seasoning with
spices both sweet and hot—cinnamon, nutmeg, sechwaan peppercorns, Aleppo
pepper, fennel, ginger. The pumpkin is then covered with raw pumpkin juice and
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allowed to cook to infuse the flavors. Finally the pumpkin broth is strained and
used as the sauce for marinated lobster. The dish is garinsihed with lime zest and
the broth is balanced with lime juice. Finally, pumpkin seed oil and the original
spice mix are sprinkled over the dish ti bring out the flavors.
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Dill with monkfish liver Dill and fish. The clean refreshing almost grassy flavor
of dill. Dill and pickles. Crisp refreshing, mouth puckering, searching for fat to
balance the acidity. Dill and monkfish liver, from the sea while being creamy and
fatty. A miso, mustard dill vinaigrette will marry the principles behind all these
flavors and in turn create balance on the palate and in the dish. Small diced
cucumber marinated in evo and vinegar with black pepper and salt can act as a
base for the ankimo while baby dill sprigs and mustard dust garnish the plate.
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Fluke sashimi with yellow wood sorrel(oxalis) and hot onion oil The acidity is
generated from the sorrel and the fat and richness is brought to light through the
roasted onion oil. The oils rich roasted flavor is tamed by the oxalis and the crisp
fresh and cool fluke is a texture and flavor highlighted by the faux vinaigrette
formed by the oil and the sorrel.
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Monkfish liver with sea urchin and truffle vinaigrette or truffle madiera jus The
briny iodine and the heady truffles with the sweet madiera circle the fatty creamy
monkfish liver. Chives and minced pickled red onions are folded into the sauces to
liven the flavors and cut through the intense flavors. Minced jalapeno should also
be folded in for its earthy heady aroma and its crisp spicy taste.
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Salmon tar tar or carpacio with sorrel or watercress aioli Salmon and sorrel. In
this raw form the sorrel is tamed by the watercress and the fact that it is folded
into an aioli. However, this aioli should have the consistency of creamed spinach
such that the sorrel and watercress are abundant and can be folded into the tar tar
or smeared on the carbacio. Similarly, the fact that the sorrel is folded into the
aioli mimics the traditional sorrel sauce from Troigros.
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Calamari or octopus with soy beans, tangerine, mint and pumpkin seed oil Crisp
refreshing flavors of ceviche balanced by earthy soy beans and heady toasted
pumpkin seed oil. Pepitas—toasted pumpkin seeds—garnish the plate for an
explosive crunch in the mouth. The tangerine segments should be confited in a
vinegar and sugar syrup to firm their texture and thus generate a balanced citric
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juice for dressing the octopus. The pumpkin seed oil will be diffused with olive
oil as well so its flavor is not overly assertive.
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Sweet maine shrimp salad: iceburg lettuce sauce, garlic emulsion with lemon orange
and crème fraiche A play off the deli and country club salad. The shrimp should
be dressed with a light Russian dressing. The iceburg lettuce sauce starts from
blanched lettuce and has a mayonnaise purreed into it. Thus a crisp refreshing
creamy sauce is created. The garlic emulsion add a luxurious froth to the dish and
the orange and lemon accetuate the sweetness of the shrimp. The crème fraiche is
used in the dressing for the shrimp. It adds a tang which defines the sweet flavor
of the shrimp. Serve the crispy fried heads on the side like French fries.
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Clean octopus with rye bran then tenderize with daikon radish The technique
here needs to be brought together with the other octobus cooking techniques.
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Champagne braised ocotopus A lighter variation on the red wine braised octopus.
Use for cleaner and lighter preparations of octopus.
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Anchovy, garlic caper dust A toasted rich flavor base which can be added to
pasta, tar tars, salads or use as dressing
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•
Blood orange aioli with olives, fennel and fish Using blood orange in the aioli
rather than lemon creates a softer aioli which then sauces the refreshing fennel and
acidic and rich green olives. Further more shavings of blood orange folded over the
vegetables and the fish will give certain bites a wake up so each bite is different
and expressive.
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Citrus, lychee, rambuten, passion fruit, walnut shells stuffed with foie gras or
other mousse or ceviche and garnished with appropriate fruit compote Using the
shell as a vehicle incorporates a visual sense of the product used. It also enables
the size of the dish to remain relatively focused, an expression of the flavors used
and furthermore it highlights the ingredients used.
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Cauliflower terrine with caviar vinaigrette or quenelle( serve with truffles, lobster
or foie) The cauliflower should be steamed through, so that the steaming liquid
can infuse appropriate aromas and tastes. Once the cauliflower is steamed and
cooled it should be broken into flourette and bound with a citrus herbal gelée so
that the individual florettes can be seen in the terrine. The terrine is then topped
with the chosen garnish. The terrine though should sit in a puree of cauliflower in
order to highlight its other silky smooth flavor characteristics.
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•
Ginger and rosemary vinaigrette with radish salad: raw fluke, baby halibut,
octopus The piney essence of the rosemary balances with the sweet heat of the
ginger to form a flavor which is enhanced by the crisp juicy radish. The dressing
of olive oil adds fat and helps transfer the flavors to the raw fish.
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Lemon and cider reduction with green peppercorn Briny, piquant, acidic, sweet
and rich reduced to a concentrate and strained creates a focused flavor to awaken
the senses when eating raw fish or meat. Folding in lemon zest, diced apple and
perhaps pineapple and ground green peppercorn will add another layer of flavor
to the concentrate. Brush the fish with lemon oil and season with soy sauce and
green onion. Garnish with freshly grated clove dust.
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Hamachi with shiso and calabrezzi chile vinegar The calbrezzi chile has an intense
sweet heat that when combined with rice vinegar and lime juice creates an intense
vinaigrette which is tamed by the herbal frehshness of the shiso and the fatty
spuppleness of the hamachi.
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Smoked paprika and yogurt with lobster salad The flavor of smoked paprika is
sweet, rich and floral. It has a subtle spice and is carried beautifully in the rich
creamy tangy yogurt. Batons of cucumber marinated in garlic oil and lemon juice
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bring a refreshing crispness. Garnish the plate with lobster coral and lobster oil
and top the salad with a espelette red pepper tuile.
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Asparagus with mushrooms a la greque Use little rings of morels in the a la greque
which then acts as a vinaigrette for the asparagus which is then topped with lemon
zest and shaved parmesan.
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Oysters on champagne “ice”(make gelée then scrape or grate to look like ice): pour
warm broth around to melt The effect is visual in that the ice is melting but you
eat the dish and get broth, gelée and oyster in one bite flavors and textures mixing
and blending in the mouth. The idea for the dish came from presenting a dish on
ice and then showing motion and having the diner capture the essence of the
oyster before the gelée melts and part of the dish disappears.
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Tuna with fennel pollen The fennel pollen adds a refreshing sweet flavor to the
tuna. To balance the pollen olive oil purreed with black olives should speckle the
fish. Use lemon juice and zest to refresh the fish. Garnish with bronze and
regular fennel fronds or a branch of sweet cicily.
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Pastrami cured tuna with sauerkraut A crisp reuben. The sauerkraut or (pickle)
refreshes the spiced and fatty tuna. Garnish with sauce of rye bread and olive oil.
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Toasted rice with minced lemongrass and lime ground together used as a
seasoning(make sweet with sugar)The technique of flavoring toasted rice to use as
a seasoning is thai or Cambodian. The toasted flavor adds richness while the lime
and lemongrass refresh the flavor base.
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Fluke and avocado carpacio: cumin fleur de sel, jalapeno, lime Shaved fluke and
shaved avocado intertwine on the plate in an intricate nest. Similarly the two key
ingredients can be layred flat on the plate and then dresse with the simpl flavors of
jalapeno brunoise, lime juice, cumin infused fleur de sel, evo and cilantro
chiffonade.
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Nantucket bay scallops with passion fruit The scallops are arranged on the plate
and seasoned with Japanese sea salt and chili flake. Then passion furit
juice(balanced with water and rice wine vinegar) with the seeds are drizzled over
the scallops. Olive oil adds a richness and forms a broken vinaigrette with the
puree. Baby thai basil leaves garnish the dish giving the clove undertone.
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Juniper(allspice, coriander, mace, black pepper) and grapefruit with raw fish
These toasted spices lend themselves to game, but their flaral nature in association
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with the bittersweet grapefruit highlight the freshness and the oceanic clarity in
the raw fish—snapper or kampachi.
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Pecans pickled in maple vinegar Toast the pecans first then pour over a solution
of maple sugar and champagne vinegar. Adjust with salt and let marinate several
days. Adjust the consistency and intensity of the vinegar through reduction.
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Scallops with ruby grapefruit, maple, mint, pecans, and fenugreek The flavors and
textures intertwine jogging the memory with thoughts of breakfast, while also
developing the rich heady combination between the grapefruit and the pecans.
The scallops natural sweetness is brought forward by the crisp mint and the tang
of the grapefruit and the pickled pecans. Meanwhile the crunch and salinity of the
fleur de sel adds texture to as well as defines the scallop as an individual.
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Ginger, lime and crème fraiche broth with jalapeno marinated clams and calamari
linguine The tang and sweet heat of the the broth mellows and also shapes the
briny firmness of the clams. A garnish of toasted sesame seeds and curly cress
will add both richness and clarity to the ingredients. Shave fresh lime zest over
the dish tableside.
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•
Claytonia is in the purslane family Informative to know varying related
ingredients.
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Finish dishes with grated dried fruits These grated fruits will add a sweet rich
character to sauces that use them as well as the meats or fish which they are
sprinkled on.
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Pineapple confit: ginger, shallots, garlic, jalapeno, salt and sugar The base for the
confit must also contain a sugar vinegar syrup so that these flovors are pulled into
the pineapple, yet the pineapple retains its own characteristics as well. The
confit will go well with fatty fish or monkfish liver. Also, as a garnish to
marinated mackerel its acidity and heat will marry well with the mackerels rich
firm oily undertones.
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Yogurt marinated fish The creamy acidity of the yogurt, especially when flavored
with garlic and cucumber and red onion with salt and black pepper, acts as a last
minute coating for snapper, hamachi, even octopus or fluke with their firm crip
textures and smooth sweet flavors. In making this dish, the yogurt should either
be labna or a well drained organic whole milk yogurt. Secondly, the cucumber
should be minced, then salted and rinsed.
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•
Bacon and avocado with cumin and jalapeno with: toro, tar tar, ceviche The
smokiness and fattiness of the bacon is accompanied by the cumin and enlivend
by the spicy but heady jalapeno. The avocado adds smoothness and together
these will balance fish tossed with merely lime juice and salt.
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Goat milk yogurt panna cotta A more assertive and tangy panna cotta is formed
which is good when paired with fatty fish or richer root vegetables. Also a salad
of wild herbs and flowers could be served with this panna cotta or at least an
herbal gelée in which the flavors of the herbs which the goats eat are highlighted
and assimilate with the rich tangy panna cotta. The panna cotta could be topped
with a persimmon compote or a beet tar tar or hash.
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Scallop ceviche with pink peppercorns, mint oil and orange zest The floral nature
of the pink peppercorn is the driving element in this dish. The mint oil and the
orange zest underline similar flavor characteristics in the peppercorn. The scallop
should be seasoned with lightly ground grey salt so as to stand up to the
accompanying flavors. Several drops of bitter orange juice will complete the
instant ceviche.
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•
Nest of salmon tar tar with oysters and black truffle The salmon tar tar is kept
fatty and rich with lemon oil. Chives are also prevalent and it is seasoned with
tobasco and Japanese sea salt. The oyster is cleaned and trimmed and shimmers in
a slight pool of oyster liquor gelée. Finally, the black truffle warmed in madiera is
seasoned with salt and pepper and tops the oyster while the truffle caisson is
drizzled to the side of the plate. Fresh grilled bread and baby celery salad
garnishes the plate.
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Truffle and scallop “Othello”(also top potatoes with black truffle slices)marinate:
soy, truffle oil, evo, fleur de sel, shallots, garlic, chives, truffles, sherry and
balsamic vinegar In application this dish can also go horzontlly with three slices
of scallop and two of potatoes and truffles. Underline the dish with a baby
arugala or watercress salad dressed in a lomon oil and lemon vinaigrette. The other
marinade as stated should be warmed slightly and drizzled over the dish. Finally,
make sure the scallops are seasoned with fleur de sel.
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Sweet garlic lace cookies Use orange juice braised garlic to make this batter bound
with touch of flour and mostly butter and sugar. Once cooked up these cookies
should be seasoned with salt and orange dust to bring forth their underlying
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flavors. Serve these with a scallop tar tar or with a roasted beet salad. Could also
use as part of a cheese course with a beet and orange salad.
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Pickled mustard seeds made with verjus Technique which needs to be examined as
an alternative pickling method which is applicable to dishes where the traditional
pickled seeds are too assertive or also to be used in a more wine friendly
environment.
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Endive with cilantro, tomato, toasted sesame seeds, red wine vinegar and whole
grain mustard vinaigrette The spicy mustard helps balance the bitter endive and
the other ingredients form an asian style vinaigrette which helps control the raw
crisp endive. Marinated lobser or pave’s of raw fish would work well with this
salad. Arrange the endive chiffonade in a row and drape the sliced fish over the
endive. Dress the fish with mustard oil and pickled mustard seeds as well as sel
gris and Chinese red pepper.
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Endive salad with anguilas Quickly sautéed and marinated anguilas tossed with
garlic and cilantro marinated endive. Season the salad with lemon oil infused with
crushed red pepper.
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Flavored oils suspended in gelée (set gelée, then top with oil and freeze then top
with more gelée)can make suspended vinaigrettes The idea or principle behind
this is to have the gelatin have juice. Vegetables and meats and fish release liquid
so why should not flavored gelée’s? Furthermore these liquid gelées can also hold
some semi solids in suspension so that when eaten the solids are released on the
plate or the palate.
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Candy fresh corn and pickle fresh corn Salad: pickled apples, cucumber, jicama,
jalapeno and ginger The candying and pickling will create sweet and sour
contrasts in the mouth as well as help define the other ingredients core flavors.
The flavors in the salad are crisp and jolting such that they will enliven thinly
sliced fish garnished with spicy aji Amarillo.
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Lighten avocado mousse by whipping in the kitchen aid or by folding in whipped
crème fraiche to an intense avocado puree.
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Watercress or parsley “cream” thickened with lemon juice a la minute: fold in
caviar; or serve with bacon brunoise, apple and caviar Visually the little black
specks show through in this dark intense watercress cream. The addition of apple
and bacon round out the flavors from the spiciness of the watercress and mimic
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the flavors of smoked fish a traditional partner to caviar. This is also an exciting
sauce for a composed beet salad.
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Diced celery root and green apple jam with pink peppercorns, sugar and rice
vinegar The finely ground pink peppercorns speckle this near white chutney. It
is a refreshing condiment which works with sardines and black olives. Make sure
to soak the sardines as well as peel off their skin. A chiffonade of celery leaves
and a splash of lemon oil completes the dish.
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Horse mackerel with radish chiffonade and lime juice Simplicity reigns. Add fleur
de sel, black pepper and olive oil. The fish when pristine needs to stand alone at
times.
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Check calcot its like a ramp or green onion
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Sauce for fish with onions: roasted hazelnuts, roasted almonds, one tomato seeded
and grated, one head roast garlic, one sprig of parsley, cayenne, salt, red wine
vinegar, evo(season fish with roasted chile and mint) An interesting condiment for
grilled and marinated shrimp or blackened and marinated fish. The toasted nuts
underline the flavor of the grill and blackening. The acidity cuts through the
fattiness and brings out the flavor of the tomato. Garnish dish with onion spouts.
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Escabeche of: quail, rouget, sardines
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Octopus with rosemary, lemon, oregano, and white wine Flavors carried over
from a lighter braising technique used to make the dressing or marinade for the
served octopus.
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Minted cream with tomato or watermelon gazpacho The mint should be infused
in crème fraiche with its richer tang to mellow out the bright acidity in the
gazpacho. Also the minted crème fraiche adds a second wave of refreshment as its
thickness lingers on the tongue.
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Raw scallops with tangerine and tangerine oil Tangerine and its oil a natural
vinaigrette. Garnish the dish with dill sprigs and cayenne pepper to blend the
flavors on the palate.
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Sweet corn with lime, mayonnaise and queso fresco A slight south American bend
on a salad, will go well with grilled and marinated shrimp or an escabeche of
mackerel to balance the acidity and bring forth a sweet nuttiness.
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Woscheshire sauce with rawfish: ankimo, hamachi, oysters and clams Like an
English soy or fish sauce, using it as a dipping sauce with ginger and scallions for
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raw fish and ankimo demonstrates its versatility and makes a traditional meat
accompaniment open and useful as its asian counterparts.
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Lemongrass panna cotta sweet or savory with oysters The intense lemongrass is
spiced by a jalapeno and ginger infusion. The oyster is set on the panna cotta and
is topped with fermented black beans mousse to season the entire dish. The
creamy panna cotta melds with the oyster like a warm oyster roast while the
beans add a punch of salinity as would caviar in a more common pairing. Chive
floweres garnish the dish adding a nasal onion aroma to the richer flavors taking
place.
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Lamb carpaccio with warm mint gelée Normally we eat hot lamb usually leg with
a cold mint gelée. In this instance we have a spiced loin of lamb just seared and
served as a carpacio served with warm grilled toast and warm mint jelly in order to
take the chill off the meat and make its flavors more vibrant as well as juxtapose
the traditional pairing.
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Tuna tar tar or raw fluke with sea bean tempura The salty sea beans are coated in
a lace like batter and are garnished with lemon juice and togarishi at the table so
they do not lose their cripness. This salty, acidic warm accompniement is a
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intensly delicate garnish to shaved fluke with a light olive oil dressing or a wasabi
seasoned tuna tar tar. The sea beans should also be seasoned with ground toasted
sesame seeds.
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Cinnamon and orange salad The cinnamon is both sweet and also has heat. It
mixes with the floral citrus of the orange and when combined with shaved red
onion its flavor is then appropriately joined with duck prosciutto or raw fish. In
this instance with the addition of baby arugala a miniature duck a la orange is
created. Use the juices from the marinated orange in combination with evo and
grapeseed oil to dress the arugala and the sliced duck.
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Grapefruit mousse with ceviche The mousse is made by pureeing ruby grapefruit
confit and then straining it and stabilizing it with gelatin. The mousse is then
garnished with salt and and baby mint, and tops the plate lined with shaved
halibut, scallops or fluke, drizzled with olive oil, fleur de sel and ground toasted
fennel seeds.
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Pickled oysters in pickled ramp nage in pickled oyster soup: shaved radish, lemon
confit, shaved fennel, cucumber dice, pickled mustard seeds, artichokes, carrots,
pickled ramps, evo, basil oil, curry oil and pickled morels The oysters become
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piclkled in the plating of the dish. The vegetables are all marinated in the ramp
nage for a couple of hours. The basil and curry oils are sprinkled on the dish right
before it goes to the table. The oysters are trimed and placed in the bowl and the
vegetable garnish is poured around the oysters. Fresh basil and fennel and
tarragon fronds as well as chives are sprinkled into the dish at the last moment.
The pickling nage may have to be balance with vegetable stock because eating an
untamed pickling liquid is a bit difficult on the palate and the stomach.
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Crayfish and artichoke salad with crayfish emulsion The two go together,
accentuating the sweetness in one another along with the heady crustacean flavor.
Fresh lemon zest and black pepper will vitalize the dish, and to make more
decadent, shaved truffles can be shaved over the top.
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Grapefruit with spiced shrimp: lime, fish sauce, soy, mint, cilantro and jalapeno
Here we are taking spicy marinated shrimp, similar to that of a ceviche, and are
serving them with confited and then charred grapefruit segments. To cook these
shrimp, roast to caramelize and season immediatey with the marinade save for the
mint and cilantro which should be added at the last minute.
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Crabmeat salad or salmon or other fish tar tar wrapped in avocado: cut off top
then slice bulb thin and fan on plastic wrap; spoon in mixture; enclose plastic
wrap and twist tightly—garnish with lime salt and vinaigrettes Great for
surprises in food. Serve with yuzu and sesame vinaigrette. Garnish with fleur de
sel and black pepper. Can also use daikon radish or other semi flexible
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Caviar in an intense beef consommé Set the caviar in the gelée in the bottom of the
bowl and arrange a petite salad on top of the gelée with a lemon dressing. Finally,
drizzle a horseradish caviar cream around the plate. The horseradish should be
intense but not overpowering in order to lift the flavor of the beef without
suppressing the flavor of the caviar. The gelée will coat the salad and it will melt
in the mouth leaving the caviar to explode on the palate and be refreshed by the
salad.
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Melon with lavender salt Melon and salt is just a simpler form of prosciutto and
melon. In this instance we use an infused lavender salt to highlight the floral
qualities of the melon. The dish should be balanced by pickled watermelon rind
and fino sherry and black pepper syrup with its cleansing acidity.
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•
Beet or beef carpacio with caviar vinaigrette The caviar vinaigrette with shallots,
lemon juice, zest Chinese red pepper, grape seed oil, chives and black pepper is
the perfect foil for either the beet or beef. In coating these capaccios with this
thick vinaigrette each bite taken is an intense balance of flavors. (think about
exploring the idea of making the vinaigrette a gelée)
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Porcini mushrooms with dill, dill oil and fleur de sel The just shaved porcini
mushrooms with their musky earthy aroma is complemented by the crisp
evergreenesque aroma and poignaht taste of the dill. The dill oil presents a slightly
tamer version of the herb so one is able to taste varying levels of the dill in
conjunction with the porcini. The fleur de sel, black pepper and lemon jus
activate the flavors of the porcini.
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Brown sugar cured smoked salmon:cinnamon, coriander, anise, allspice, cloves,
mustard seeds, bay, mace, nutmeg, ginger, peppercorns Smoked salmon with a
richer sweet spiced flavor. For warmer presentations for the flavors seem to
mellow the palate and intertwine with the richness of the salmon. To intensify,
make cure with molasses and soy syrup as well with salt and jalapeno to infuse
background heat.
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•
Tomato buds Search for usefulness, pickled, pureed, as a garnish, need to taste
flavoer and see if at all viable.
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Celery cooked in white gastrique The white gastrique is white vinegar and sanding
sugar reduce to a syrup then adding the bias cut celery hearts so the jam created
has a white
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Olive oil braised octopus served with wild fennel and green olives The olive oil
braising is a long slow method of cooking the octopus in order to tenderize its
flesh. Similarly the garnish of green olives and fennel picks up on the flavors of
the olive oil while also bringing fresh flavors to the tender meat. The octopus
should also be braised with aromatics in the olive oil as well as herbs and spices.
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Dill tuiles These tuiles add refreshing crunch to salads and tar tars as well as an
accompaniment to savory sorbet and ice cream. The batter should incorporate a
dill butter so as to keep the flavor as fresh as possible.
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Beet tar tar with crème fraiche and caviar The beets are given tang from the crème
faiche and salt from the caviar. Also, the beets are inexpensive while the caviar is
an extremely decadent item. Minced red onion and chives will add to types of
onion flavor and texture to the tar tar and increase its depth of character.
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Raw fish chowder: sliced salmon, tuna, hamachi, horse mackerel, kompachi
snapper with ocean water broth—clam and oyster jus, ginger, garlic, evo, tarragon,
mint and rice vinegar The fish will be arranged in the bowl and seasoned with
black pepper olive oil, lemon and fleur de sel. At the table spoonfuls of sea foam
will be ladled over the fish along with freshly grated lemon zest.
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Miso vinaigrette: miso, Dijon, togarishi, rice vinegar, soy, garlic, ginger, green
onion, jalapeno, evo, sesame oil This vinaigrette has a variety of uses from raw
fish to ankimo. Its rich salty tang envelops the tongue and seasons what it
accompanies completely.
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Sorrel and fennel pesto(orange zest, fennel, evo, sorrel, fennel syrup, fennel
pollen, minced red onion) with salmon tar tar The sorrel in conjunction with the
fennel produces a vibrant sweet and sour pesto which in turn cuts through the
fatty salmon. The addition of the orange zest helps tame some of the sorrels
acidity while highlighting the fennels sweetness. The use of a grassy olive oil in
the tar tar gives the salmon a vegetal quality which helps tie it to the sorrel and
fennel.
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Yellow tail sashimi with lime and jalapeno and seasoned salt(lime zest, black
pepper and fleur de sel) By infusing the salt with the pepper and lime zest the
floral and spicy qualities of each are both absorbed and tamed by the salt. Thus
the salt brings several flavors to the fish in a controlled manner so that a more
refined flavor is created to season the fish and coherce with the lime juice and the
brunoise of jalapeno.
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Green mango and shrimp salad with fish sauce, chiles, garlic, sugar and lime
Marinate the diced green mano with all the seasonings except the shrimp. Roast
the shrimp separately and let cool, then dress with evo and any liquid given off by
the marinated mango. Arrange the diced mango on the plated and top with the
shrimp and fresh lime zest and black pepper.
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Balance of flavor: saltiness, sourness, sweetness, heat, bitterness, crispness,
fermented Flavors to look for when designing a dish, tasting menu and menu for a
restaurant.
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Rawfish with ground toasted peanuts: evo, chile, peanuts, lime, radish, and
cilantro puree with a salad of: radish and cilantro chiffonade, lime juice and zest,
evo, red chile and toasted peanuts Flavors of thai street food meet raw fish
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preparation and salad. The fat and toast from the nuts compliments the pristine
texture and flavor of the raw fish. The chile, lime and cilantro bring a more
rounded flavor to the dish adding heat, acidity and floral smoothness.
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Tik marij: mix of ground black pepper, salt and lime juice which is indespensible
to Cambodian cooking This flavored salt or paste is also indispensable in the
simple seasoning of raw fish. With a light sprinkling of lime scented fleur de sel,
the fish only needs a dip into evo to complete its seasoning. Here we have
another example of a simple preparation to highlight the bright flavors of raw fish.
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Sauce prahoka: boiled fish sauce, lime juice, sugar, minced chiles, chopped hearts
of lemongrass and cilantro Here is a more intense flavor base to be used with
marinated fish or crustaceans or as part of a dressing for vegetables which will
accompany raw fish such that the fish is seasoned by the salad.
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Oyster, sea urchin and hamachi tar tar served in the shell with shiso and yuzu
vinaigrette The oysters are trimmed so they are only the noix, and the tongues are
soaked briefly in salted water to firm them up. The hamachi tar tar is tossed with
olive oil, soy and fresh wasabi. The three fish are arranged in the urchin shell and
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drizzled with the shiso and yuzu vinaigrette. They are garnished with baby shiso,
grated toasted sesame seeds and oyster liquour gelée.
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Ankimo with kumquat confit and salted soy beans Instead of duck a la orange
here is monkfish liver with a similar richness garnished with a ginger, rice vinegar,
and kumquat confit as well as salted soy beans. The dish gets its inspiration from
the traditional and alters characters while retaining the basic flavors. Here the
salted soy beans add the salt to the liver and the chutney adds acid, sweet, bitter
and heat.
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Apple and beet chutney with lemon balm and chives This chutney is more of a
composed salad. The beets are marinted with lemon balm, evo, salt and chives and
are arranged on the apple chutney flavored with ginger, onion and jalapeno as well
as sugar and champagne vinegar. The top of the salad is baby beet greens and the
plate is grnished with and apple and beet syrup broken vinaigrette. Finally, an
apple chip finishes the dish. Green apple yogurt sorbet could also replace the
beet greens and top the marinated beets and then be topped by the apple chip.
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Tuna paillard coated with caviar, meyer lemon juice, fleur de sel and minced
shallots This dish follows the same principle as the beet and beef carpacios being
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seasoned with caviar vinaigrette. In this instance tuna is the neutral palate brought
to life by the caviar and the floral meyer lemon.
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Watermelon and cucumber are in the same family as are squash and other melons
Important information to know when combining ingredients and flavors for dishes.
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Sugar cane vinegar with beets To marinate beets in sugar cane vinegar is slightly
ironic for beets were grone as a less expensive means of producing sugar than sugar
cane. Thus the beets are now having their sweetness balanced by their
contemporaries vinegar.
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White salmon sashimi with mustard oil and mustard fruits or basil oil and baby
basil The mustard oil provides heat and fat to the salmon and the mustard fruits
pick up on the heat while also providing sweetness, acidity and a chewy texture.
With regards to the basil and the basil oil the vegetal anise flavor of the basil is
refreshed by the tamed basil oil and the elegant salmon. The fish is seasoned with
white pepper in both instances and it is also seasoned with fleur de sel. In fact
these two interpretations of the salmon could be served as two separated courses
at the same time to differing people to present similar flavors and tastes put to
vary the actual preparation. Garinish the mustard sashimi with pickled and
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toasted mustard seeds as well as baby mustard greens, and garnish the basil with
baby basil leaves and clove dust.
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Fish in shapes and tastes: square tuna with soy, seame and yuzu; triangle hamachi
with lemon zest, juice, oil, confit and basil; circle scallop with candied grapefruit,
mint, and maple Here we have taken the underlying shape of each fish when
broken down, and used it to differentiate flavor and presentation through the
evolution of tastes on a raw fish plate.
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Toast mustard seeds before pickling to release aroma Technique which needs to
be tested to see if a positive difference is noticed. Note that in general the toasting
of spices increases the aroma and flavor of the spices.
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Crab meat salad with sesame oil and sweet and sour broccoli The broccoli is
marinated in a yuzu and garlic oil vinaigrette and is arranged on top of the crab
meat salad. The broccoli is in baby florettes that were blanched till just cooked so
that they are firm but not crunchy. Toasted sesame seeds are sprinkled over the
broccoli, and a soy, vinegar and honey syrup garnishes the plate. The crab meat is
bound with a red chile and lightly sesamed aioli to tie the flavors together. Minced
red onion and citrus zests are in the crab salad as well.
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Sardines with clove scented pickled oranges and fennel confit The orange and
fennel is a classic combination and the addition of the clove brings a sweet spice to
the orange further tieing the fennel and orange. These two sweet and sour flavors
provide a useful contrast to the fresh oily sardine with its rich texture and
firmness.
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Key lime and gooseberries with raw fish ceviche : ginger and horseradish sprouts
The key lime and gooseberries enforce their acidity in one another and need to
balance with palm sugar and glucose so as to keep the preserve tart and floral.
The ginger and horseradish sprouts add two separate heats one sweet one bracing
to the raw fish. The fish itself needs to be dressed with a rich sweet olive oil to
tame and balance these assertive flavors.
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Celery seed vinaigrette with ceviche or lobster salad The marinated lobster or
ceviche will also be seasoned with pickled celery hearts and a chiffonade of celery
leaves. Thus the need for a rich fish to stand up to the cleansing qualities of the
celery in three forms. While celery can be overly intense, by using the inner leaves
and the hearts for the pickles, the celery plays off itself as well as seasons the
main ingredient.
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Cured striped bass sashimi with lobster knuckles, lemon oil and confit, cucumber
dice and baby mizuna The cured bass draped over the marinated lobster knuckles
almost mirroring the actual tail. The lobster is tossed with the lemon oil and
cucumber with lemon juice and sea salt. The bass is seasoned with fleur de sel and
lemon oil and garnished with baby mizuna. Sherry vinegar syrup should garnish
the plate.
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Hamachi tar tar with salad burnett and plum gelée Cucumber and plum both
refresh the palate. Furthermore with the addition of acid to the plum gelée the
richness of the tar tar will be tamed by the acidic, tannic fruitiness. The tar tar is
seasoned with toasted Indian spices: clove, cinnamon, mustard seed, cumin,
coriander, fennel, and lime pickle oil. Thus the gelée and the cucumber will also
mimic spice taming and enchancing chutnies of Indian cuisine.
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Pickled plums(champagne vinegar, salt, pepper, sugar) served with toro tar tar:
lemon zest, lemon oil, lemon confit, lemon juice, fleur de sel, togarishi. Garnish
with pickled plum, globe basil, lemon oil and clove dust The flavors of the plum
and the tar tar are both highlighted separately , and in their union the dishes similar
flavors unite and the assertive ones tame each other.
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Orange and onion salad with ceviche of striped bass:mint, orange and lime juice
and zest as carpaccio, thinly sliced red onions, baby arugala, evo and black pepper
The refreshing nature of orange and onion salad brought to summer picnics first
sparked the idea behind the dish. Secondly ceviche with its refreshing citrus and
onion flavors inspired the simple combination of the flavors. The addition of mint
merely brightens all the flavors in the ceviche. The baby arugala and black pepper
accent each other as well as add spice to the marinated fish and orange onion salad.
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Steak tar tar with warm shallot fondue The warm shallot fondue with its melting
butteriness and background white wine acidity takes the chill off the tar tar as one
spreads the fondue oon the bread and then tops it with the tar tar. The tar tar has
the traditional accompaniments from capers to miniced onions to raw egg yolk.
The rich flavor of the shallot fondue adds a silky textural quality to the meat as
well as rounding out the flavor. Finally, steak and onions marry classically in
many preparations.
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Foie gras and scallop carpaccio The scallops are sliced thin and dressed with a
citrus and soy vinaigrette. Shallots and citrus zests thicken the vinaigrette and a
touch of sesame oil adds a buttery richness. The scallops are then topped with
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mizuna greens dressed in neutral vinaigrette. Finally, frozen salt cured foie gras is
grated over the entire dish.
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Tuna and hamachi with fresh wasabi gelée The gelée is set in sheet pans so that
small thin sheets can cut out and draped over the slices of tuna and hamachi. The
fish sits in a soy and citrus and olive/peanut oil emulsion. Mint chiffonade cleans
up the dish.
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Shiso and ruby grapefruit with shaved fluke The grapefruit should be cooked
down to a chutney flavored with glucose caramel and ginger and snsho pepper.
The shiso adds a refreshing crisp flavor with its cumin and menthol like clarity.
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Chicken consommé with tarragon, topped with cauliflower cream and caviar The
richness and refreshing flavor of the chicken and tarragon consommé is enriched by
the cauliflower emulsion and piqued by the salty crisp caviar.
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Game consommé with beet puree and ossetra caviar A richer version of the
chicken consommé the beet puree with the game gelée is appropriate to serve in
the fall and winter with its richer flavors intermingling.
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Smoked eel with preserved lemon glaze The lemon syrup cuts through the rich
fatty eel while also bringing out its sweetness. The dish is also garnished with salt
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cured lemons and fresh mint with ground allspice. A spicy baby green finishes the
dish.
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Seville orange marmalade: blanch slices twice in simple syrup then cook in sugar,
Seville orange juice and corn syrup syrup Technique in making a marmalade from
a bitter orange rind and balancing it with sweetness and acidity. The marmalade
can accompany raw fish or marinated fish.
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Horizontal napoleon of sardines and shiso leaves with lime juice, jalapeno and
pepper vinaigrette The fish stand up with half slices of shiso between them. The
vinaigrette with lime zest, jalapeno brunoise, togarishi lime juice and evo is
drizzled over the fish. Garnish the dish with toasted rice, lemongrass and salt.
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Lemon and toasted garlic broccoli florettes with sweet maine shrimp The broccoli
is blanched till cooked through and then marinated with a toasted garlic and chile
oil and fresh lemon juice. The shrimp are marinated with the garlic oil and lemon
and spice with togarishi. Garnish the dish with toasted garlic chips and spicy
chile oil.
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Citrus carpaccio with sweet maine shrimp salad and thick soy Try and locate
some varied citrus from key lime to yuzu to blood orange. Each segment is sliced
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into approximate thirds to create individual carpacios which the shrimp are
arranged on and the shrimp are also draped with the vaying citrus sements.
Thinly sliced water soaked red onions are mixed with evo and Aleppo pepper.
Garnish the plate with roasted Japanese salt and citrus zests, as well as a baby
green which still needs to be researched. The thick soy is in drops on the plate
which both the citrus and the shrimp are pulled through.
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Raw tuna with mayonnaise, tobasco, soy, capers, celery, anchovy, woscheshire
Here fresh pristine tuna is marinated like tuna salad from country clubs or simple
lunches. The dish should be garnished with marinated tomatoes and red onions
and micro greens.
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Cilantro, mint and kumquat gremolata The flavors mirror a classic gremolata. In
this instance the gremolata can used as a traditional would be but will also in
dishes with asian, Indian or morrocan inspired dishes.
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Torro with sherry vinegar pickled radish crust The sherry vinegar is balanced
with soy and saffron and infused with ginger. The chiffonade of radish is soaked
in this infused vinegar soy mixture. Drizzle the top of the fish with evo and top
the toro with trimmed radish sprouts.
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Raw tuna with cornichons, mayo and chile Each slice of tuna is seasoned with
fleur de sel. Secondly, a slice of cornichon, thinly sliced fruity and hot chile and a
drop of airrated mayonnaise. Garnish the plate with baby cucumbers with their
blossoms ideally quickly pickled.
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Lime yoghurt sorbet with tequila: serve with tuna tar tar or lamb This sorbet is
topped with minced shallots cooked in curry butter. The sorbet crowns the tuna
tar tar, and tableside is topped with the warm curry fondue. The tar tar is mixed
with cilantro and lime zest with olive oil and crystal hot sauce. Finally mint oil
finishes the dish.
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Indian spiced steak or fish tar tar Lime ginger pickle minced is the leading element
in the tar tar. A sorbet of red pepper and lemongrass and Aleppo pepper.
Garnish the plate with the oil from the lime pickle and a toasted curry tuile. Fresh
lime zest is grated over the plate tableside.
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Top sashimi of fish with Indian spiced hot oil and Indian pickles as well Season
the fish with black salt and then top with a warm lime pickle vinaigrette. Garnish
the dish with a small chickpea sprout salad with parsley and mint.
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Horseradish and sour cream panna cotta with smoked salmon tar tar, red onion
gelée, dill oil, raw salmon The infusion of horseradish and sour cream adds tang
and heat to the rich base which in turn compliments the dill marinated salmon and
the red onion gelée with the slight essence of red wine vinegar.
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Oysters or ankimo with wakame salad and caviar The sesame, soy and banyuls
vinegar marinated wakame cuts through the richness and brininess of the seafood.
The caviar punctuates the saltiness and marine qualities in the dish. Sliced green
onions top the caviar on the dish.
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Tuna with tomato, ginger and upland cress The tomato marmalade is infused with
the ginger and toasted mustard seeds. The spicy upland cress cuts through the
fish and adds heat and crispness to the fish.
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Lobster with soy, ginger, palm sugar, sesame oil and scallions The seasonings are
used as an emulsion under the lobster. The lobster medallion will be topped with
baby cilantro and brunoised pineapple to add refreshing acidity. The lobster itself
should be seasoned with lobster salt. Fresh orange oil will perfume the dish and
unite the elements from cilantro to soy to lobster.
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Artichokes with cornichon vinaigrette, truffles and quail egg The uncious and
acidic artichokes are refreshed by the cornichon vinaigrette and the heady
earthiness of the truffles adds luxury to the dish. Finally, the toasted mustard
seed garanished deviled quail egg adds a firm creaminess to the dish. Minced
truffles are also folded into the deviled mixture in the egg.
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Parmesan shortbread A delicate and rich accompaniment to asparagus or artichoke
salad. Season the shortbread with one drop of aged balsamic vinegar to resemble
thumbprint cookies.
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Grapefruit with mint salt The salt and the mint both balance with the sweet
acidity and bitterness of the grapefruit. Use the citrus in conjunction with
avocado and marinated creamy crabsalad with minced hijiki seaweed folded in to
bring out the marine quality of the crab. Make an old bay oil to drizzle on the
dish to blend the flavors.
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Giant clam sushi with bacon and seaweed froth A raw version of clams casino
with fat coming from the bacon and also the seaweed froth finished with olive oil.
The dish is also seasned with a puree of parsley, olive oil and lemon zest which
further highlights the flavors of clams casino. Finally a red pepper syrup accents
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the plate. The raw taste of green pepper either in a quick salad or chutney needs
to be integrated into the dish.
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Crabmeat with cucumbers, onions, dill and yogurt A raita flavored cucumber salad
highlights curry flavored crab salad. In this instance we have the flavors of a cool
curry salad balanced by a creamy raita. Fresh dill and dill oil will refresh the dish.
Finally, an apple and jalapeno chutney will add the fresh juicy intensity needed to
refresh the dish.
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White asparagus with caviar ravigote The caviar with the minced red onion and
the fresh herbs is actually in the prescence of the tradistional garnishes for caviar
from eggs to herbs. This thick sauce seasons and balances the sweet and bitter
flavors of the lemon braised asparagus. The dish is garnished with miniature
croutons cooked in lemon oil and seasoned with salt and black pepper.
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Crab salad with crab mustard(innards or brains) sauce The roe has a rich silky
salty flavor which adds another layer of crab flavor to the dish. The crab mustard
seasons the aioli. Use whole grain mustard folded into the crab salad to mimic the
crab mustard sauce which garnishes the plate.
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Crabmeat with dandelion gelée or puree with green garlic salad The salad or
flavors of garlic and bitter dandelion creates a flavor base or pedestal which
highlights the sweet briny crabmeat. Blanch the dandelion greens first and then
make a puree with lemon and olive oil with them. Make a sweet garlic jelly with
fresh dandelion flowers to make a yellow hued gelée to flavor the crab salad.
Finally, make a petite salad of baby dandelion greens and garlic chives dressed in a
lemon vinaigrette to top the salad. In this dish we have captured several element
of garlic and dandelion presented through the briny sweet canvas of crabmeat.
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Crab semifredo(mascarpone and crème fraiche based) in bisque The bisque is
more of the sauce for the semi fredo. On top of the crab roe sable is a lightened
crab cream topped with a small spiced crab meat salad. Matouks hot sauce and
crystal are the two underlying bases for the heat in the salad. The bisque is an
intense crab stock flavored with ginger and lemongrass, and cognac and finished
with a drop of crème fraiche to give a creamy consistency. The crab on top of the
semifredo is garnished with a green onion, hijiki or other intense small seaweed,
and sesame seed salad dressed in a yuzu vinaigrette in order to cut through the
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flavors in the dish. The flavors borrow from maryland’s crab bisque, asia’s spicy
vinegared crab and the Italian semi fredo.
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Red shiso broth with fish or crab The red shiso broth is fresh red shiso pureed
with a light seafood broth or dashi infused with lemon peel or blossoms, lime peel
or blossom and toasted cumin. The broth is strained and its flavor is adjusted
with ginger, garlic, jalapeno and red onion which has already been sweeted out.
The crab salad in the center of the bowl is vinegared to balance the dashi and cut
the crab meat. Fresh spicy olive oil is drizzled over the dish to give it some
intensity and mouth feel, and baby shiso and green onion bias garnish the crab and
the broth.
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Lobster pot de crème with sauternes gelée The lobster pot de crème is thickened
with both eggs and lobster eggs so that the rich roe is in the forefront along with
the lobster body infused cream. The sauternes gelée accompanies the sweetness in
the lobster but also adds a smoothness to guide the lobster along the palate where
the pot de crème may be rich the gelée refreshes. The pot de crème is served with
black pepper and toasted mustard seed potato chips, something salty and spicy to
balance the lobster. The top of the pot de crème should be topped with a slice of
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lobster medallion seasoned with chives and orange/mustard seed dust to bring the
flavors together.
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Tomato mustard fruits Try cooking baby tomatoes or larger ones for that matter
in the syrup for making mustard fruits. The sweet and spicy tomato will
accompany raw fish as well as marinated salads giving intense mouthfuls of
refreshing sweet acidulated heat. Tomato is a fruit, so it is not to much of a leap
to believe tomato mustard fruits can be made.
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Chervil and chartreuse jelly with raw scallops The multiple herbs and roots in
chartreuse will be focused by the delicate anise quality of the chervil. The jelly
will be made by infuseing chartreuse with chervil and finally by setting individual
leaves in the jelly. This jelly will create and herbal tingle on the mouth which will
compliment the sweetness of the scallops. Black pepper will further highlight
flavors in the jelly and a light French olive oil will finish the dressing of the
scallops save for a few drops of a lime juice and rice vinegar mixture.
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Ibiona ham(come from pigs one year old and only fed cereal) is coated with sea
salt, garlic and espellette peppers Source ham and use in salads and in conjunction
with marinated fish in chilled surf and turf dishes. Use with artichoke salad and
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season the artichokes with espelette pepper to bring out more of the flavor in the
ham.
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Raw fish with bamboo, honey, soy and yuzu The shaved bamboo then marinated
in vinaigrette will provide a crunchy salad with which to entwine sliced raw fish.
The soy, honey and yuzu is reduced to a light syrup and infused with red chiles to
give an intense heat which will balance the sweet salty sour syrup. A chiffonade
of basil and mint along with confit of yuzu will refresh the dish.
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Paprika coated squid with toasted garlic, lobster broth and sake soaked golden
raisins Many flavors dance around the palte with this dish, yet it perversely
makes sense. While sake is made from fermented rice, its smooth soft rich floral
character will mary with the more acidic honey like raisins. Paprika and the
toasted garlic posess sweet heat, bitterness and undertones of acidity which
season the firm and tender squid. The reduced lobster broth finished with some of
the sake form soking the raisins and some toasted garlic oil unites the dish. A
refreshing garnish for the dish is sesame leaves and shiso leaves floating in the
broth along with fresh lime zest.
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Smoked tomato gelée (add touch of tobasco) The tobasco in the gelée allows for
the finishing sharpness of heat and vinegar to focus the sweet rich flavor of the
smoked tomato without clouding the gelée or speckling it with pepper.
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Cilantro oil with carrot vinegar as a vinaigrette The flavors of carrots and cilantro
are sweet and herbal. In infusing vinegars and oils with their essence the flavors of
both are captured and can be used as accents in dishes with marinated vegetables
and fish. Visually, the carrot vinegar and cilantro oil is also extremely striking.
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Porcini and raw fish salad: fleur de sel, soy, lemon zest and juice, chives, tuscan
evo The raw fish and the mushrooms get seaoned at the same time and are of the
same thickness. The mushrooms are firm but still crunch in the mouth while the
fish gives way beneath the teeth due to the quick marinade and its firmness is felt
more in the middle. The fresh earthy aromas of the porcini are balanced by the
sweet clean refreshing raw fish. To add a touch more depth to the dish a pine
infused gastrique seasons the dish.
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Corn gelée or jelly use corn cobs and calves feet Technique in making clear corn
gelée. Use to bind terrines or garnish salads with an intense but smooth
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interpretation of corn. Drape raw fish over the gelée and season with chile and
olive oil and an interpretation of a Peruvian tirradito has been created.
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Yuzu or orange confit with garlic, ginger, shallots, salt and sugar In this confit, the
addition of the ginger accents the sweetness while also adding heat. This addition
thus leans the confit towards asian influenced dishes, but in no means limits it to
such. In fact, the background infusion of ginger only hightens the flavor profile of
the citrus confit.
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Smoked paprika(oil) with melon and salty caramel A balance of flavors and
textures occur. The sweet and the salty, the smoky and the bitterness with sweet
heat as well in the smoked paprika. Fresh lime juice and zest in a pool in the
bottom of the bowl will fisnish this seudo salad. Garnish with fleur de sel and
fresh lime blossoms.
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Steak and eggs: steak with caviar, tar tar with caviar, fish steak with caviar The
caviars presence provides salty, marine decadence which matches the sweeter rich
flavors and textures of raw meat and fish.
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Mint and artichokes The artichokes are braised and then dressed with a braising
liquid vinaigrette which is punctuated by fresh mint and black pepper. A
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mushroom syrup and fennel olive oil sorbet add earthiness and refreshing
chacteristics to this mint and artichoke salad. Finally, ring the salad with bright
mint oil.
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Grilled melon salad The char or caramelization of the melon adds character to the
melon and makes it more accessible to being garnished with meats like prosciutto
or prosciutto seasoned tuna or hamachi..
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Vinegars infused with flavors(dill, orange, tarragon, mint, sage, pear) can be made
by pouring boiling vinegar over the infusing flavor or by by steeping and shaking
the vinegar for a period of several months Technique to be explained in the
subchapter on vinegars.
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Pickled red onions and gherkins in escabeche While traditionally the vegetables are
simply miripoix, the red wine vinegar pickled red onions and the gherkins add
futher depth to the flavors in the escabeche. They have their own pickled
characteristics which they bring to the escabeche rather than being pickled in the
escabeche.
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Sweet maine shrimp with orange or tangerine vinaigrette with cilantro oil The dish
is sweet and sour, and given herbal highlights and refreshed by the cilantro. The
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tangerines are confited with champagne and rice vinegar to firm them and generate
the base for a vinaigrette which when combined with the cilantro oil balances the
shrimp. Add further texture and flavor to the dish with a green mango chutney
seasoned with jalapeno and ginger, which further ties it to the cilantro and
tangerine.
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Sweet maine shrimp and avocado in a spoon Shrimp salad in one bite. Roast the
shrimp with lobster salt and lime zest and toasted garlic to set the intense flavor
profile of the dish. The creamy spicy guacamole breaks down in the mouth while
cumin, cilantro and jalapeno cut through the fat. Tomato adds bursts of refreshing
sweetness and acidity. Garnish the dish with baby cilantro, lime juice and black
pepper. Here we have taken the flavors of comfort and concentrated them into
one poignatnt bite, leaving you longing for more.
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Asparagus or artichoke salad with prosciutto vinaigrette The brunoised
prosciutto and miripoix and mushroom is combined with minced red onions,
banyuls vinegar, olive and grapeseed oils and minced fresh herbs to season either
the artichokes or the asparagus. Fresh lemon zest and sumac finishes the plate.
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Potato chips with toasted caraway, mustard seed and clove dust These three
spices toasted add depth to the potatoes. Serve these chips with tuna tar tar or
steak tar tar with Indian spices. Thesed chips will mimic the spices in marinated
potatoes served with Indian dishes.
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Almond and lemon jelly with sea urchin, fluke, or oysters The toasted almond
adds richness to the acidulated lemon in the jelly. Thus the iodiny and briny sea
urchin is smoothed out with the light gelée which coats the tongue and refreshes it
from the sea urchin. Top each urchin with several drops of spicy olive oil to
enrich the urchin and carry the flavor across the palate.
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Diced black truffle in celery root remoulade In this garnish to celery salad, there
are one part black truffle to two parts celery root. The remoulade has its creamy
mustard base, but also is enhanced by truffle oil. The consistency of the remoulde
is that of a medium thick dressing so that the salad on the plate will be able to be
smeared in the dressing. A diced apple chutney is also folded into the remoulade
in order to add refreshing acidity to the dish.
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Ginger, wasabi or horseradish juice in mayonnaise with raw fish carpaccio, lobster
salad, softshell crab, shrimp or crab salad The result of the infusion of these crisp
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heats into the mayonnaise is twofold. One, the heat is both tamed and carried by
the mayonnaise resulting in an intense and tamed flavor at the same time.
Secondly, by infusing the heat in an emulsified fat, the flavor is evenly dispersed
and can be frothed to deliver small bubbles of flavor of smeared to deliver a
constant flavor or put around a dish so that the eater may decide how much to
pique their palate.
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Use battara sushi mold to make raw fish terrine(line mold with evo poached squid)
The battara sushi mold allows for small amounts of a terrine to be made and well
pressed in one day so that the fish is still pristine and fresh to be appropriately
served. The slow cooked squid allows for a prisitine white border around crisp
clean fish. The garnish for the terrine will vary on the fish used in the terrine.
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Fennel pollen sorbet with scallop medallions The fennel pollen sorbet is made
with large amounts of olive oil to bring fat and creaminess to the raw scallop
medallions. Set the scallop slices on nests of marinated peppers, and garnish with
nicose olive tapenade with anchovies to act as a salty vinaigrette.
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Watermelon gelée with spice crusted calamari The watermelon gelée seasoned
with lime juice, lime zest and black pepper is a smooth refreshing contrast to the
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slightly firm spice crusted calamari. Spices being: coriander, paprika, allspice,
peppercorns—black, white, pink—, fennel seed, cumin and ginger. A small salad
of onions and pickled watermelon rind with mustard seeds will finish the dish.
Use mint and cilantro herb puree to set beneath the calamari.
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Sweet maine shrimp served in half a hollowed out lime with jalapeno and lime
pickle vinaigrette(apply to Nantucket bay scallops or other small sea food)—
perhaps add bacon or a cured meat as well Here we are using an element in the
flavoring as the vehicle for carrying the marinated fish. Aesthetically the fish and
marinated vegetables are a focal point of the eye and then the flavors to come. In
using the lime pickle as part of the vinaigrtette the palate gets an unsuspecting
flavor surprise, for straight lime is not the only flavor in the dish. Thus the eye
has fooled the palate into thinking one thing thus creating a pleasurable experience
due to unexpected flavors.
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Store quail eggs with black truffles and serve with steak tar tar or fish tar tar with
truffles In storing the truffles with these small eggs, the flavor of the truffle is able
to better permeate the egg. Secondly, by not cooking the egg we keep the flavor of
the truffles in the rich yolk which then gets folded into the steak or fish truffle
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infused tar tar. Serve the dish with warm toast or grilled bread so as to bloom the
flavors of the truffle and the others in the tar tar.
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hamachi tartare with caviar and borscht The borscht is a rich beet essence which
the tar tar tossed with olive oil and wasabi gelée to evenly coat the fish( instead of
horseradish) is centered in. A caviar and crème fraiche sauce rings the borscht, and
a quenelle of caviar tops the tar tar. The tar tar is flavored with soy, fleur de sel
and chives as well.
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lobster salad with sea urchin vinaigrette The briny sea urchin is pureed with
lobster oil, ginger juice, soy, sesame oil, crystal hot sauce and rice vinegar and
coats the bottom of the plate. Lobster knuckles are tossed with a light yuzu
vinaigrette with chives and is arranged with sea urchin tongues on the puree.
Ground toasted sesame seeds and garden herbs garnish the plate. Season lightly
with orange dust to accentuate the lobster.
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escabèche of sardines with shaved artichokes and meyer lemon The oil and
vinegar from the escabeche of sardines flavors and marinates the raw baby
artichokes. The sardines rich flavor and the artichokes smooth bitter sweetness is
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brightened by the floral meyer lemon juice and zest. Finish the dish with baby
mint, black pepper, allspice and Japanese salt.
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escabèche of mackerel with pickled celery hearts and brunoise peppers The
pickled celery hearts and the raw peppers will cut through the fat and oil of the
mackerel. The peppers are almost bitter and vegetal while the celery hearts are
crisp and refreshing.
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escabèche of root vegetables served with just seared “langoustines” The roasted
then pickled root vegetables bring out the sweetness in the langostines while also
balancing the inherent richness. Garnish with a chilled olive oil and langostine
emulsion.
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anchovies with capers and pickled potatoes A sea or maritime flavored potato to
garnish marinated or cured fish. The potatoes will absorb the olive oil from the
marinated fish as well as season the fish while also providing a creamy semi
neutral background to the dish.
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shaved fluke salad with quick cucumber pickles The fluke is layered on top of
white wine vinegar marinated cucumbers. It is seasoned with fruity olive oil, black
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pepper and fresh dill. The light marinade on the cucumber blends with the olive
oil and dill to create a vibrant vinaigrette to balance the sweet firm fluke.
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salmon belly A piece of the fish which normally gets discarded, but has great
appeal in that it is well marbled with fat. Mince into a tar tar, or cure briefly and
smoke for true salmon bacon. Marinate in a soy maple vinaigrette balanced with
lime juice. Drizzle with browned butter just warmed and a traditional breakfast
staple is now a dish of marinated salmon
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sea urchin with lemon confit and mussel gelée The sea urchin tongue is set in the
anise flavored mussel gelée. Its garnished with lemon confit and olive oil
vinaigrette. This gelée is part of the idea of what you see is what you get.
However, once again, the gelée’ s subtle herbal seasonings and its essence of the
sea demonstrates that what you see is not always what you get. Ground toasted
fennel seeds and fennel pollen finish the dish.
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serve oyster dishes in shell with tops for jewel box effect Technique for serving
raw, marinated or cooked oysters. An oyster is a difficult shellfish to open.
Similarly, on occasion it holds the surprise of a pearl. In this presentation the
diner is given two gifts: the ability to open an oyster with one hand, and the
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surprise in the inside. The dishes which can be assembled with this approach in
mind are endless, but three which stand out and are very refreshing are: pickled
oysters with raw vegetable “salad”(the vegetables are cut into unique shapes
which still allow them to be separately identifiable, and are marinated in a lemon
vinaigrette. The oyster sits on top of these vegetables and is garnished with and
herbed oyster liquor gelée. The second is chilled lemon tagliatelle and caviar
vinaigrette. The tagiatelle is blanched and tossed with the caviar vinaigrette. The
oyster and some of its liquor is spooned over the pasta, and then the oyter is
topped with caviar and the shell. Finally, the oyster sits on an oyster gelée
thickend with pickled sea beans. Fresh dill garnishes the oyster enlivening the
pickeled sea beans.
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beet tartare with traditional garnishes Here we use the tradional garnishes for beef
tar tar for beets. The straight exchange of main ingredients shows that vegetables
have the same allure and presence in the dish as do traditional proteins. Also, this
tar tar is slightly lighter, leaving the appetite longing for more but not getting it,
making the next course even more appreciated
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hamachi tartare on beet carpaccio with fresh wasabi Many people make carpacios
of fish and then garnish them with small diced beets. In this instance we have
swapped roles, so that the beet is accented by the smooth fatty clean hamachi. A
fresh wasabi mayonnaise garnishes the plate as do minced shallots, chives, citrus
zest and lightly drizzled peppery olive oil( a different one than the mayonnaise)
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sliced diver scallop with pickled watermelon rind and ginger The pickled
watermelon rind adds crispness and acidity to the soft meltingly sweet scallop. A
ginger juice stabilized with gelatin accents the plate and adds sweet spicyness
which is also picked up by lemon vinaigrette marinated radish sprouts. Garnish
the dish with evo and toasted mustard seeds.
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pickled green papaya with allspice and thyme These are two background flavors
in jerk seasoning. Thus infusing pickled papaya with these two enables us to use
it as a garnish with spicy marinated fish or meat or as a refreshing condiment to
spicy steak tar tar made with Indian spices.
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oven concentrated blood oranges and perilla The semi dried texture and flavor of
the oranges in conjunction with the baby perilla adds life to the the sweet flavor of
braised fennel in a salad. Fresh shaved fennel is also part of the dish with an
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orange and green olive vinaigrette. Toasted cumin and jalapeno oil heats and
smooths out the dish.
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tuna carpaccio with mushrooms a la greque and mint The miniature shitake caps
and the brunoise of miripoix scattered over the fish provide seasoning and
vinaigrette. Garnsih with fresh mint, fleur de sel, and curry oil to accent the
mushrooms. Make the base for the a la greque vegetarian with an herbal vegetable
mushroom stock as the base.
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Hamachi with basil, truffle vinaigrette, aleppo pepper The basil is infused in the
soy which is used in the truffle vinaigrette. Also baby basil leaves garnish the
dish. The Aleppo pepper adds a sweet heat and slight smokiness which broadens
the truffles flavor in the dish. Small rounds of black truffle also garnish the dish.
The vinaigrette consists of minced shallots, sherry vinegar, lemon juice and zest,
jalapeno brunoise, truffle oil, evo, grapeseed oil, basil infused soy sauce.
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Bluefin toro with chives, perilla, lemon oil The toro with its fatty firmness is
piqued by the lemon oil and the spiced perilla. The chives add an onion
complexity so the dishid not one dimensional. In this instance we have stripped
down the key elements of a great tuna salad. Fat, fish, acid, vegetable crunch.
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Roasted beets with pickled mustard seeds, sorrel, orange zest The beets which
were slowly roasted are sweet and rich. The pickled mustard seeds add heat and
acidity while the sorrel adds a vegetal acidity. An orange and olive oil emulsion
will coat the beets to add a creaminess as well as a fruity acidity to the salad.
Garnish the dish with orange zest in order to accent the orange.
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Lobster or crab louis A base of lettuce cups are the traditional accompaniment for
this salad with its origins in San Francisco. The sauce base with chili sauce,
mayonnaise, sour cream is enlivened with green pepper, green onions and chives.
Woscheshire sauce adds depth to the flavors in the sauce. In this dish we use
crème fraiche instead of sour cream and our mayonnaise is homemade. The chili
sauce is enhanced with additional horseradish, but otherwise the dishes flavors
remain intact. Use homemade ketchup as the base for the chili sauce. Doing so
will allow for the spices and character of the ketchup to enrich and polish the
entire dish.
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Garden herbs with banyuls vinaigrette, toasted sesame A delicate salad with a
banyuls and yuzu vinaigrette. Black pepper, salt and toasted sesame seeds round
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out the simple garden herb salad(try for at least fifty) Fold a confit of yuzu and a
splash of sesame oil into the vinaigrette to round out the flavors.
Just warmed
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oysters pickled in mignonette with suckling pig pancakes The oysters are
trimmed and cleaned so that on an order they are marinated in red wine and sherry
vinegar mignonette. The pancakes are made of fingerling potatoes, leeks and the
meat, fat and skin from braised pig tails. The pancakes are served with a salted
chive butter and the oysters in a small dish on the side to be spooned in the mouth
to wash down and compliment the pancakes. The service is one pancake and two
oysters to cleanse and refresh the palate. Garnish the plate with the jus of the
braised pig tail cooked down with a black pepper gastrique.
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Sweet maine shrimp cooked in herb or truffle beurre fondue A small cocotte of
beurre fondue is enriched with brunoise, shaved black truffle, truffle oil and crème
fraiche. Sweet maine shrimp are poached in this truffle sauce which is then
finished with chives and served on a sourdough toast round with the truffle sauce
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spooned over and around the shrimp. An intense shrimp syrup is drizzled around
the dish and each shrimp is garnished with several drops of sherry syrup as well.
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Flavored beurre monte: soy, lobster/coral, shallot/verjus, curry/ paprika, tamarind
with crab fondue These flavored and infused beurre monte allow for the creation
of simple sauces and cooking mediums to accompany a large variety of dishes.
Furthermore, one can start off with the base neutral monte, and have these intense
reductions, syrups and spices which are then reconstituted in the monte
depending on the dish. Furthermore by having a larder of reductions and spice
mixes the variety and skill with which one can create is unparalleled.
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Broiled oyster with lemon foam caramelized onion dust or red onion dust The
oysters are trimmed and placed on an onion puree in their shell. They are topped
with a lemon zest and lemongrass emulsion thickened with salsify puree and with
folded in egg yolk. This emulsion is broiled till glacage occurs and topped with
caramelized onion dust(cook thinly sliced onions like fried shallots) and chives and
fresh lemon zest. The oyster and the onion puree create a small oyster stew in the
shell while the lemon glacage adds carmeliztion which is further accentuated by the
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the caramelized onion, lemon zest and chive topping. Balance the onion puree and
and lemon puree with crystal hot sauce which has acidity, heat and smokiness.
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Just warmed oysters on crispy pig belly “hash” A tobasco beurre monte is the
emulsion balanced with sherry vinegar and coffee syrup is the key to this dish.
Vinegared pork(note which style of barbeque this is) is the inspiration for this. In
this instance the porkbelly ragu with brunoise vegetables, pork jus and vinegar is
cooked and formed into a small round. It is finished with minced jalapeno and
chives as well. Our tobasco emulsion is used to poach the oyter which is then
finished with lemon zest and chives is spooned over the hash. The dish is
garnished with griddled toasted pressed brioche.
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Snails Rockefeller It is that simple other than the fact that the snails are glazed in
a redwine and meat jus sauce finished with brunoise vegetables and bacon. The
spinach for the dish is finished like creamed spinach but with pernot, bacon and
onions in the base. The hollandaise sauce for the glacage is lightened with
whipped cream. It is garnished with fennel dust (ground toasted fennel seeds and
espelette pepper)
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Buttermilk crepes The use of buttermilk in the crepe batter allows for the crepe
to have tang and not just be a rich thin pancake. These crepes can be used for
traditional or buckwheat styles. The key is the buttermilk with its acidity which
also makes the crepes more tender for the acid breaks down the gluten.
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Warm beet gratin with cold fish tar tar The thinly sliced beets layered with
toasted sesame seeds, fresh wasabi, pickled onions, ginger, garlic, and soy crème
fraiche. The gratin is topped with green onion, mint, cilantro, basil. The tar tar is
seasoned with crystal hot sauce, evo and fleur de sel. It is topped with baby beet
greens dressed in a lemon vinaigrette. The chilled white tar tar contrasts the bright
red beet gratin. The fish cleanses and cools while the beets warm and the
seasonings pique the palate.
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Smithfield ham with barnacles: pico rocos, gooseneck, elvers, periwinkles The
intensely seasoned ham acts to add both salt and pepper with a meaty richness to
ragus of barnacles. Onion, garlic and ham fondue is poured into the top of pico
rocos to make a faux clam sauce. Top the cooked barnacle with olive oil, and
parsley. Here an American salt cured ham is used as a flavor base rather than the
more traditionally used Italian salumi.
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Baked stuffed razor clams While the large razors are often seen the smaller ones
are more appropriate for the style of cooking. (source out flavor differences as
well) Purge the razor clams of their silt and then braise the razor clams in white
wine with white miripoix and herbs. When the clams are cooked strain and reserve
the cooking liquid. Remove the bellies and discard. Slice the clam on a bias into
thin slices and let marinate in the reserved strained cooking liquid. The clams are
then compined with butter cooked onions, celery, bacon, peppers:red, jalapeno,
yellow, toasted bread crumbs, oregano, thyme, chives, lemon zest and juice,
crystal hot sauce and the clam liquor. The farce is molded back into the half shells
and baked. The clams are topped with a lemon emulsion based on the clam liquor,
lemon zest and lemongrass, butter and crème fraiche.
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Poached egg with salted sesame seeds, mustard sour cream sauce Here is a rich
and simple one to two bite dish which relies on the quality of the egg. The salted
sesame seeds add an essence of meatiness and the mustard sour cream adds spice
and acidity. An intense mustard green sauce is poured around the egg at the table.
Baby red mustard greens and shiso leaves garnish the bowl and become absorbed
by the sauce when it is poured tableside.
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Curried frog legs with yogurt, dill, mint The frog legs are slow cooked in the oven
in a curry emulsion. The emulsion consists of reduced chicken jus and reduced
crème fraiche seasoned with toasted curry powder and finished with sweet butter.
They are first seared on one side, the pan is drained of oil and deglazed with white
wine. The legs are added back and coated with the curry emulsion. Half way
through the cooking fresh dill and green apple parisians as a chutney are added to
the pan. When the legs are finished they are removed from the pan and the
roasting sauce is enriched with chicken jus and then strained over the legs.
Roasted morel mushrooms line the bottom of the plated and the legs are arranged
on top. Yogurt thinned with apple juice is drizzled over the legs and fresh dill and
mint garnish the plate. The roasting sauce just coats the bottom of the plate.
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Softshell crab with crab mustard aioli Use the mustard of hardshell crabs to enrich
the sauce for softshell crabs and thus add another dimension to the dish. This idea
is more technique and product driven than being dish specific
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Warm cauliflower custard baked in an oyster shell, or use agar agar to make warm
cauliflower gelée to serve with oysters Cauliflower with its smooth silky unctiuos
quality with the infusion of lemon zest refreshes the palate. Black pepper
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cleanses the palate while adding piquant heat. Garnish the dish with pickled baby
cauliflower florettes and a sweet, salty and sour confit of lemon zest.
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Asparagus with warm prosciutto sauce, asiago cheese and poached silky chicken
eggs The asparagus is warmed under a broiler with lemon, chicken stock and
butter and then topped with grated asiago cheese which just melts. A prosciutto
emulsion is the base of the plate and a warm poached silky chicken egg sits on
butter toasted croutons. Black pepper and asiago curls finish the plate.
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Nantucket bay scallops with sauternes foam, bay leaf emulsion and salsify The
salsify is braised in water with lemon juice and zest along with lemon thyme and
lemon grass. The bay leaf emulsion is reduced chicken jus an crème fraiche infused
with toasted fresh bay leaves and orange zest. It is then strained and mounted
with butter. The sauternes foam is reduced sauternes thickened with crème fraiche
and butter and aerated. The foam itself is garnished with orange dust. The
Nantucket bay scallops are seared on one side then deglazed with chicken jus and
left to rest on a plate. The salsify is also pan roasted and finished with lemon zest
and a fresh bay leaf. The bay leaf emulsion is in the center of the plate topped
with a nest of salsify batons and the seared scallops. The sauternes emulsion
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coats the scallops and a garnish of orange dust, black pepper and the fresh bay leaf
finish the plate.
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Chicken oyster with caviar sauce A classic combination. The chicken oyster is
poached in herb infused milk and then glazed in an emulsion of mussel liquour,
vermouth, chicken jus and crème fraiche finished with butter, hot sauce and caviar.
The chicken oyster is served on a butter toasted crouton and garnished with lemon
zest, Chinese red pepper and chives. A variation of this dish can be made by
substituting minced truffles for the caviar, and omitting the mussel liquor in the
sauce.
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Razor clam and black truffle farce Black truffles with their earthy undertones
compliment the briny firm but tender razor clams. Minced shallots and jalapeno
add depth to the flavor along with minced lemon confit. The farce or ragu is
finished with a truffle clam base of a clam broth made with vermouth, truffle juice
and enriched with crème fraiche and butter with a touch of truffle oil. The dish is
finished with chives, a touch of lemon juice and tobasco. Shave truffles over the
top as well. Serve with a small celery and parsley salad garnished with truffled
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butter toasted croutons. The salad is dressed with a lemon, sherry and truffle
vinaigrette.
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Diver or Nantucket bay scallops with cabbage coulis(cabbage, foie fat, ginger) The
scallops are seared and removed from the pan which is deglazed with chicken
stock and finished with butter and poured back over the scallops as they rest.
The cabbage coulis is made from blanched cabbage leaves, vegetable herb stock and
ginger. It is mounted with foie fat when finished. Make sure to strain and puree
everything cold to retain the color. Make a ragu of sauerkraut and a chiffonade of
green cabbage finished with a brunoise of pancetta and miripoix as well as thyme
and chives to serve with the dish. Also, sauté foie gras cubes and then toss them
with the scallops and use the jus to deglaze the pan. Let the sauce emulsify and
pour on the dish tableside so as not to distort the visual presentation.
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Softshell crabs with toasted allspice and red plums The red plums are pickled in a
red wine vinegar syrup infused with allspice and bayleaf. The plums are also
pickled with shallot rings so a pickled chutney is created. The softshell itself is
brushed under the gills with a salted plum puree to accentuate the flavor of the
pickled plums. Fresh basil and basil oil olong with toasted cashew nuts finishes
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the dish. The flavors hear seem at first obscure but their individual elements build
a flavor base for the softshell.
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Brandade fish sticks with caviar sauce Use fresh salted and herbed cod to make
the brandade. Flavored with leeks and olive oil and finished with tobasco and
herbs this chunky fish and potato combination can then be formed into small
sticks and breaded and fried. Serve with a tartar sauce made with cooked egg yolk,
crème fraiche, tobasco, lemon and finished with caviar and minced red onions. The
dish is garnished with sieved egg yolk and white. The sauce lines the plate, and
more caviar in quenelle garnishes the sticks.
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Cepe tartlets with walnut, rosemary, bacon puree These petite tartlets focus on
the earthy meaty aroma and flavor of the cepes. The mousse of toasted walnuts,
rosemary and bacon all accent the inherent qualities of the cepe. The tart shells
are a walnut and cream cheese crust. For the tartlets the cepes are scored and
roasted on both sides and finished with butter, shallots, garlic and thyme. These
are then drained and placed into the mousse in the walnut tart shell. The tart is
baked to just warm and set the mousse. The tartlet is accompanied by a cepe and
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spruce consommé to balance the rich flavors in the tart. The plate is garnished
with dried cepe dust and a balsamic syrup and walnut oil.
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Layer sardine filets on parchment paper and trim into a rectangle(each filet is cut
in half) for easy searing and one can press on parchment with out injuring the fish.
Also layer fish with shiso to add additional flavor This is both technique and
aesthetically driven. The sardine sits skin side up on the parchment with one leaf
of shiso beneath the flesh on the parchment. Thus while storing the fish the shiso
impregnates the sardine with flavor. Secondly, when searing the sardine in a
tephlon pan the filets will remain close together because they are bound by the
shiso. Furthermore, the flesh of the sardine will remain moist under the protective
shield of the shiso. Serve these seared(they could be broiled as well) sardines with
a small Brittany seaweed salad or with a small nest of daikon with a yuzu and
grapefruit vinaigrette. In the second instance garnish with slices of grapefruit
segments.
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Clam ragu with zuchinni and marjoram A zucchini puree made from seared
zucchini, sweet garlic cream and chlorophyll will be the base of the dish. A ragu
of manilla, cockles, razor, surf, butter, littleneck and steamers will be bound
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together with a lemon and marjoram emulsion. A brunoise of blanched zucchini
will be added to the ragu and a fried zucchini blossom will finish the plate. Baby
basil leaves, Aleppo pepper, lemon zest and marjoram will finish the dish.
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Crab meat with tomato sauce The crab meat is warmed in a ver jus shallot butter.
This enables the sweetness of the crab to be accented by the sweet and sour
characteristics present in the ver jus. The tomato sauce is a tomato fondue
enriched with capers, anchovies and spiced with toasted garlic and crushed red
pepper. The crab and tomato fondue is surrounded by a a crab reduction finished
with olive oil and crème fraiche. A green olive tapenade with hints of rosemary,
crushed red pepper, orange zest, black pepper is served along side the dish to be
mixed in as you eat the dish. Here we have the flavors of putanesca in a flavorful
combination as a warm fondue rather than tossed over pasta. Here, crab meat
benefits from these flavors, and they bring out the different characteristics in the
crab.
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Frog legs with dill, spices(mustard, coriander, allspice, clove), smoked salmon dice
Salmon with dill and mustard. Simple flavors which have classically gone together
now season a slightly more obscure partner—frog legs. The frog legs are pan
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roasted and sprinkled with the spice mix and lemon zest, minced red onions are
added and sweated for a moment and the pan is deglazed with chicken jus and
balanced with lemon jus. In a separate pan a ragu of diced cucumber, pickled
mustard seeds and smoked salmon are warmed in beurre monte(do not exceed 115
degrees) which is then finished with tomato concasse, chives, dill and black
pepper. The frenched frog leg pops sit on rounds of the salmon and cucumber
ragu which sits on the reduced pan jus from the frog legs. Dill pluches and
mustard oil and the spice mix garnish the plate.
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Crab meat ragu with swiss chard and lime pickle A spiced red pepper broth
seasoned with jalapeno, lemongrass, garlic, onion, curry powder, garum masala,
tamarind and almonds is the base for the dish. This intense broth holds a swiss
chard packet that is stuffed with crab salad flavored with lime pickle, ginger, and
cumin. The packet is steamed in plastic wrap then unwrapped and dried and
placed on the pepper broth. The packet is brushed briefly with curry oil, and
then topped with a salad of minced red onions, blanched swiss chard
stems(perhaps slowly braise in beet juice to color and tenderize), cilantro, fried
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shallots, pepper brunoise, chives and a lime pickle vinaigrette. Garnish the dish
with cilantro oil and Aleppo pepper.
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Glass eels cooked in bacon fat with crushed red pepper and garlic rather than evo.
Finish with parsley and perhaps a quail egg. Glass eels take on the role of
spaghetti carbonara. While the eels ared cooked in bacon fat for its smoky aroma,
we use sweated pancetta or guancialle to toss with the eels when the dish is
finished. The dish is refreshed with lemon juice and the toasted garlic and chile
flakes add depth to the eels in the dish. The poached quail egg acts as another
coating and adds silky richness to the dish. The dish is accompanied with grilled
bread with which to absorb the sauce. To compose the dish, place a light garlic
puree on the plate and top it with the grilled bread round which is topped with the
eel mixture and finally the egg. Garnish the dish with red chile oil and fried
parsley.
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Cook snails in bouillon with miripoix and salt(to begin luring snails out of shell):
coat snails with anchovy caper shallot and tarragon butter and cook in brioche
cups or egg cups with brioche lid This encompasses the technique in cooking
snails so that they are easier to shell once they are cooked. Also, the combpound
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butter is an emulsion which the snails are coated in before they are placed in the
bread cups to be cooked. The cups sit on a bright green herb puree which helps
refresh the palated for this is a rich dish. Similarly, the snail cups are garnished
with a celery, parsley and confit lemon segment salad.
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Asparagus and crab ragu with crab mustard and sherry and old bay hollandaise
mousseline Backing into this dish we have the toasted old bay seasoning cooked
down in a wine syrup and used as the base for the mousseline. This mousseline
adds character to the warmed crab meat, for it is both creamy and rich and
instantly associated with crab. The dish cannot exist with rich alone so asparagus
is added( also quickly associated with hollandaise). The asparagus is in two
forms, a bright green puree,(enhanced by chlorophyll) and grilled for the toasty
charred aroma. The grilled asparagus is then brushed with a balsamic and herb
vinaigrette to add acidity and balance to the dish. Fresh lemon zest and cayenne
pepper garnish the plate.
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Gelée pasta sheets(use agar agar or pectin or gelatin): lobster stock based, foie
gras(papardelle or free form lasagna), aged vinegars and wines, vegetable juices,
duck stock wrapped around foie gras, fruit roll ups for cheese The uses of this
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technique are endless. To use as an accent or to be the key to a dish, the variables
should be expressed in three separate dishes with the impact of the gelée varying
with each dish.
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Roasted squab and crayfish salad with warm gelée, or crayfish with warm game
gelée The crayfish are just warmed beurre monte and and sit arranged on a plate
coated with squab gelée made with agar agar so that the gelée is warm. A
crustacean emulsion coats the crayfish, and toasted sunflower seeds garnish the
dish along with a pickled pear chutney which adds acidity and crispness to the
dish. Garnish the dish with small tarragon leaves
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Nantucket bay scallops with hamburger garnish: ketchup ginger emulsion, pickled
mustard seed sauce, lightly port pickled red onions, and spiced pickled cucumber,
with toasted sesame seeds( needs something to mimic cheese) The caramelized
bay scallops with their fond have a sweet meaty character which led to the
complimenting garnish of cheese burger garnishes. The pickled cucumbers are
small like cornichons and sliced into thin rounds so each bite of scallop has a
proportionate amount of pickle. Similarly, thered onions are julienned so they can
be draped over the scallops. The ketcup emulsion is made with an intense chicken
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jus infused with ginger, jalapeno and lemongrass and emulsified with homemade
ketchup and butter. Toasted sesame seeds garnish the scallops, as does crumbles
of st agur the creamy blue cheese.( source American blue cheese as well)
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Zuchinni and crabmeat gratin with basil and nutmeg An intense crab broth is
frothed and surrounds a hollowed out zuchinni round that was pan roasted. In
side the zucchini is a ragu of crab, zucchini Parisian, baby basil, nutmeg, toasted
slivered almonds, lemon juice and zest and crab mustard. The zuchinni is topped
with a zucchini puree finished with mayonnaise which is caramelized. Garnish
with basil oil. While the layers of flavor in this dish work, I am not pleased with
how it comes together. I need to explore other variations which keep the flavor
profile intact.
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Nantucket bay scallops with roasted butternut squash consommé and shaved
black truffle(can also make into a gelée and serve hot or cold cooked or raw) The
consomme is created by roasting butternut squash, and then hanging the flesh in
cheese cloth. The liquid produced is strained and reduced to intensify its flavor.
The scallops are caramelized in the pan and are tossed with a sweet spice as they
rest on a plate after the pan has been delglazed. The consommé is warmed and the
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scallops are arranged on the dish. The truffles are shaved onto the scallop pan
drippings to warm and absorb the flavor, and then are draped over the scallops.
Flavors of fall and rich aromatics drive this dish. The sweet scallops explode with
caramelization and sea juices while the consommé and the truffles remind the
palate it is winter and there are some things to be happy about.
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Riced potatoes topped with caviar sauce The potatoes –small creamy fingerligs-are baked to order and when cooked they are riced right onto the plate. A warm
sauce of crème fraiche, chicken jus, butter, tobasco and cooked egg yolks is
thickened with caviar and spooned over the potaoes so that the flavorful sauce
goes in the nooks and crannies. This dish works with a truffle fondue as well.
The warm potatoes pullin the sauce and each bight tastes of a poor mans great
luxury.
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Softshell crab with basil puree The seared softshell is served with a creamy
potato puree thinned with an olive oil and basil puree and served with fava bean
and tomato salad with fresh chervil, shallots, lemon confit and champagne
vinegrette. The dish is garnished with chervil, tomato confit and lemon confit.
Elements of spring and early summer collide on the plate. The flavors are fresh
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and clean with an underlying richness from the potatoes and the exploding
softshell.
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Oysters with warm walnut oil vinaigrette: soy, balsamic, evo, walnut oil, chives,
lemon The oysters are trimmed and cleaned and just brought up to temperature in
the vinaigrette. They are placed back in the shell and are served with a side of
miniature scallion pancakes. The oyster once back in the shell is sprinkled with
spiced toasted walnuts.
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Fish sauce: white wine and vermouth reduction mounted with butter and finished
with meyer lemon juice(use for sorrel fondue and emulsion) serve with softshell
crab and pickled mustard seeds Simple acidic and sweet reduction which helps cut
through the butter and provide a solid foundation for the sorrel fondue—sweet an
mostly sour. Finishing the sauce with meyer lemon juice adds a floral acidity
which hightens the flavor of the sorrel, the butter and the reduction. The sorrel
fondue will cut through the rich crab and the hidden pickled mustard seeds in the
sauce will provide texture heat and acidity to individual bites in the dish.
Seasonality also plays a role in the design of this dish for we are using products
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which naturally occur at the same time of year—in this case spring with vibrant
intense awakening flavors.
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Softshell crab with pickled ramp, mustard emulsion, ketchup and sausage “cake”
The sausage cake is a brioche and spiced sausage bread pudding, cooked au
torchone in stock then cooled, sliced an seared as the base for this dish. The
mustard emulsion is Dijon and pommery mustard pureed with cooked egg yolks
and crème fraiche. The pickled ramps add crispness to the dish and the ketchup
sauce is dried on a sil pat in the form of a tuile. The softshell is balanced by these
complimentary flavors resembling the fixings bar at roy rogers.
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Broiled fresh sardines with baby watercress, citrus and aged balsamic A
minimalist dish. The sardine lies flat on the plate with baby watercress dressed in
a lemon segment confit vinaigrette to its top left and a dot of aged balsamic to the
bottom right. Lemon zest garnishes the watercress salad. Grains of fleur de sel
rise above the sardines slightly charred skin.
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Warm artichoke salad with baby arugala, orange dust and fish The artichokes are
tossed with a vinaigrette of diced tasso ham and the reduced braising liquid of the
artichokes. The shrimp are roasted on one side then flipped, basted with butter
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and spinkled with orange dust. The arugala is dressed in an orange and black
pepper vinaigrette which hilights the flavor on the shrimp.
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Spider crab en cocotte with natural emulsion The crabs are cooked in an aromatic
court bouillon. The crab meat is removed from the body and claws. The crab
mustard is reserved separately as well. The crab shells are then crushed and
roasted in a pan, followed by a few drops of tomato paste which similarly gets
toasted in the pan followed by miripoix and alcohol: sherry and cognac. Finally
the reserved court bouillon is added and the stock is simmered and skimmed for
half an hour. At this point aromatic herbs are added and the stock is cooked for
ten more minutes. Remove from the heat and let rest for ten minutes before
straining. Once the stock is strained it is reduced by two thirds and then heavy
cream is added. The sauce is reduced to nape, another herb sachet is added like
tea, and it is strained and chilled. To finish the dish, the crab broth is mounted
with butter and seasoned with Aleppo pepper and lemon zest. This delicate rich
broth will be spooned over the warmed spider crab meat which was warmed with
cucumber, jalapeno and minced red onion, served in the crab body shell. The dish
is topped with croutons cooked in old bay butter, and drizzled with cognac syrup.
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The crab mustard is sieved and a dollop is placed underneath the crab meat as a
surprise in the dish.
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Oysters cooked and served in salted butter The butter foams and the trimmed
oyster is warmed in this salted sea foam like butter. Once the oyster is warmed it
is spooned back into its shell with the butter froth. Served with warmed sour
dough the dish is complete and balanced. No pepper is needed here for the tang
from the bread and the brine from the sea are smoothed by the rich foamy, slightly
nutty salted butter.
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Slow cooked vegetables in 115 degree olive oil The vegetables, primarily root are
cooked slowly in the oil, rotating in the pan so that the flavors sweeten and
become rich and subtley flavored.
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Monkfish liver with glazed onions and bacon with a green onion vinaigrette The
monkfish liver sits on one side of the plate rounded by aged balsamic vinegar. On
the other side sits a warmed salad of glazed onions, bacon brunoise in a green
onion vinaigrette.
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Celery root confit with chestnuts and black truffle The root is slowly cooked in
chestnut tea. When it is tender and melting, it is brushed with a celery root puree
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and topped with shaved toasted chestnuts on one half and black truffle shavings
on the other. Falls flavors are captured in sweet clean richness. Serve the celery
root and chestnut tea on the side to wash down the dish. Top it with truffle
infused milk and black truffle dust. We have now created two simple aspects of a
dish merely through our cooking methods.
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White anchovy and green olive beignet Green olive tapenade lightened in a
tempura batter. The anchovy is dipped in the batter and fried. The dish is
garnished with black pepper, orange zest and caper rainsin emulsion. The sweet
salty sauce brings out the sweet marinated sea flavor in the anchovy while also
piqueing the briny salty rich flavor of the green olives. The orange zest adds a
floral fruitiness which ties the flavors of the dish together. Meditaranean,
refreshing, ingredient based. Without great ingredients this dish fails. Nothing can
mask pour quality.
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Oysters in black truffle emulsion The emulsion is reduced chicken jus mounted
with crème fraiche and thickened with black truffle shavings and a touch of truffle
oil. The emulsion is warmed to about 115 degrees, and the trimmed cleaned
oysters are warmed through. The oyster is returned to the shell with the emulsion
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garnished with black pepper and lemon zest scented croutons. The floral croutons
refresh the rich truffled oyster while also adding texture to the soft tender oyster
with the miniature chocolate chio like truffle bits.
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Softshell crab with sumac and sorrel Two forms of citric flavors without actual
citrus. The sumac is used to flavor a spicy aioli with out lemon. The sorrel is
dressed with salt and spiced olive oil, and is nestled on top of the softshell which
sits on the sumac aioli. The flavors are focused and refreshing while being simple
and of not great substance. However, one does not need great substance to make a
great dish. Its simplicity and exchange of flavors keeps the dish interesting and
the concept sharp.
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Raw cauliflower dust to crust hamachi medallions The cauliflower is fineley
ground in the food processor. One side of the hamachi medallion is floured, then
egged then crumbed with the cauliflower. The Hamachi is roasted in olive oil and
butter on the cauliflower side till it caramelizes to a uniform brown. The hamachi
is then basted with the fat in the pan and removed. The hamachi is served on top
of a silky cauliflower puree, and is garnished with a salsa of crushed red pepper,
pickled cauliflower florettes, capers, minced onions and lemon zest and confit of
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lemon segments. The salsa is flavored with lemon infused champagne vinedgar
and lemon oil. The lemon adds clarity which balances the differing qualities of the
cauliflower in its varying preparations. This dish revolves around the garnish-the cauliflower. Yet the hamachi’s creamy butteriness just warmed has several
textures and flavors, similar to that of the caulilflower.
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Nantucket bay scallop with prosciutto chiffonade “tuile”: garlic froth,
lemony/creamy spinach The scallop is dusted on top with flour, then egg and
then pressed onto a chiffonade of prosciutto. The scallop is seared on the
prosciutto and basted with herbs at the last second. The scallops are nestled on a
bed of creamy lemony spinach, and a blanched smoked garlic froth garnishes the
dish. Drizzle the dish with black pepper infused lemon olive oil which will
doubley enhance its spiciness and also add a refreshing floral nose and relief to the
palate.
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Oysters with meat consommé gelée and sherry mignonette The sherry mignonette
is thickened with melted shallots, minced lemongrass, ginger and soy saucee, and
acts as a light broth in the oyster shell. It is like a delicate onion soup. The oyster
is topped with a meat consommé gelée made with agar agar, so that the entire dish
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can be warmed under the salamander. The warm gelée with the oyster and the
mignonette truly capatures that rich essence of onion soup enlivened by the firm
meat gelée. This slightly warmed dish uses a variety of techniques with simple
ingredients to present a comforting and innovative dish.
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Hot vin juane gelée on cold oysters The yellow sweet gelée is draped over the
oyster and warmed briefly in the salamander. The gelée softens but does not melt
and then warmly coats the palate which is then followed by the briny refreshing
oyster which then explodes in your mouth with refreshing sea juices. Here is the
essence of a half dozen oysters and a glass of wine in one bite.
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Braised white asparagus with hollandaise sauce and sauce perigordine The lemony
sweet braised white asparagus is warmed in its intense braising liquid. It is then
drained and placed on a pool of sauce perigordine and then seasoned with black
peppe and fleur de sel. It is then topped with a brown butter hollandaise
mousseline. The dish is garnished with baby lemon basil and lemon zest. The
dish balances richness and bitterness with guiding acidity and alluring sweetness.
The asparagus braising liquid can be served on the side emulsified with olive oil
and steeped with truffles. A lighter take on the dish on the plate.
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Slice fruit(mango, melon, pineapple, plum, apricot) and layer on plastic wrap then
pipe or layer filling and role as roulade. Finally, slice and brulee crust.(make
savory with potatoes and truffle mousse, foie gras mousse, bone marrow roulade,
lobster or crab salad. The technique here is what matters. Making these roulades
with hidden fillings gives the sense of mystery and what will come when the dish
is eaten. The idea of bruleeing the outside top of the roulade gives another sense
of texture as well as giving another flavore of the fruit or vegetable, for part of it
remains raw while part is partially cooked.
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Warmed bone marrow on raw tuna medallion with wasabi or horseradish The
warmed bone marrow gives a creamy gelatinous texture to the fresh clean tuna.
The fresh wasabi cuts through the bone marrow and adds poignant heat to the firm
fleshed tuna. The tuna sits on a nest of daikon dressed in a sesame soy
vinaigrette. The bone marrow for this dish is poached in the soy vinaigrette as
well for then it carries the flavor of the vinaigrette into the marrow, fully seasoning
it. Garnish the tuna with thinly sliced green onions. Texture is important to this
dish. The firmness of the tuna with the crisp daikon and the smooth warm rich
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bone marrow coaxes and massasges the dish in your mouth. Fresh lemon zest
finishes the dish.
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Gratin of snails, rosemary, prosciutto, with a black pepper walnut crust The
snails are glazed in a red wine jus, bound with rosemary, prosciutto and brunoise.
The small dish is topped with walnut butter and brioche crumbs which get bruleed
in the salamander, thus creating a delicate crust which crumbles into the dish of
snails. The outside of the dish is touched with a blanched garlic emulision, frothed
so the flavor is delicate. Similarly, a parsley puree refreshes the dish.
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Soft poached egg with chestnuts and shaved truffles The egg sits on a bed of
toasted chestnuts seasoned with salt and black pepper. The egg, warmed in beurre
monte, sits on these roasted nuts and is seasoned with fleur de sel, black pepper
and chives. Top the egg with shaved truffles warmed in a madiera jus. The egg is
firm and spongy, and when it breaks its orange yellow yolk flecked with truffles is
thickened by the toasted chestnuts. The sweet and fruity madiera jus adds
background to the heady truffles and the toasty chestnuts. The crisp chives clean
the dish with its fatty rich flavors.
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Drape fish with warm gelée like napkin The flavored gelée is draped over the
warm fish, and then briefly set under the salamander. The shape of the fish is
seen beneath the delicate dali like gelée. The flavor or the fish and gelée varies
depending on the season. The dish focuses on flavor and the layers within a dish
as well as visual and textural aspects. The warm gelée provides a warm silky
aspic sauce for the fish. Its texture when eaten is fooled by the brain for one does
not expect a warm gelée—because heat makes them melt. The dish is a quick
magic trick which adds to the dishes allure and appreciation.
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Sweet maine shrimp and black truffle over polenta The shrimp are cooked gently
in a reduced shrimp emulsion flecked with black truffle and brunoise vegetables.
The ragu is served next to a creamy olive oil and butter enriched polenta topped
with olive oil, black pepper and parmesan. The dish at the table is finished by the
diner who can either eat each separately or pour the fondue on top of the polenta
with its decadent broth mixes with the shrimp and the polenta.
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Lobster, sea urchin and crosnes ragu with ginger, yuzu and chives A lobster stock
is emulsified with sea urchin butter balanced with yuzu juice and Aleppo pepper.
The ragu is warmed in beurre monte with ginger, shallots, yuzu juice and confit
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and finished with chives. The crosnes are previously cooked in brown butter and
lemon juice being finsished with chicken stock. Fresh bay leaves add depth to the
crosnes. The ragu is served in a small bowl, the sea urchin tongues being placed
into position on the warm ragu and the dish being garnished with the sea urchin
emulsion. On the side is rice tuiles seasoned with lobster salt, lobster coral and
Aleppo pepper.
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Soy beurre monte with ginger, rice vinegar, scallions, cilantro, tarragon and use it
to cook butter clams or razor clams Here is an asian seasoned butter which
marries the new England butter drenched clams with the clean and salty flavors of
an asian dipping sauce. The monte base uses the clam cooking liquor so the
flavors of the sea are inherent in the sauce. The ginger and the rice vinegar are part
of the ragu from the beginning, but the herbs are added at the last minute with a
touch of yuzu and sansho pepper. This clam ragu is given a touch of gaminess
from fermented black beans, and is seved garnished with cilantro oil, and on a bed
of neutral seaweeds, which are lightly dressed in a yuzu vinaigrette.
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Marinated hijiki tempura The hijiki is marinated first so that the flavors of the
marinade penetrate the seaweed and thus it is flavored from the inside out. The
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seaweed is then garnished with ground toasted sesame seeds and served as a
garnish to the above clam ragu cooked in the soy beurre monte.
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Fresh bay leaf stuffed crab legs with balsamic vinaigrette and toasted almonds
The crab legs are split in half and dressed with olive oil, pepper and a fresh bay
leave is inserted in the middle. The crab legs are then tied back together and pan
roasted in oil and then basted with butter and lemon thyme. The legs are then
opened up and garnished with fleur de sel. The legs are served with a toasted
almond and apple balsamic vinaigrette with a brunoise of apples poured around
the legs at the table, and with a small cocotte of toasted almond and apple puree
on the side. The apples are cooked en papillote with onions, and the toasted
almonds seasoned with a sachet of lemongrass, ginger and toasted five spices.
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Persimmon vinaigrette is the base for a ragu of seared Nantucket bay scallops with
toasted chestnuts and lime blossoms. The vinaigrette has both champagne and rice
vinegar in it as well as fresh habanero. The dish is garnished with several glazed
leaves of baby bokchoy. The leaves are glazed in a stock of chicken jus, soy
sauce, lemon grass and sumac, finished with butter. The tough middle stem is
shaved down on the bok choy so it cooks evenly throughout.
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Pastrami spice rubbed softshell crab with Russian dressing, sauerkraut, rye bread
cubes or round A pastrami inspired spice paste is rubbed under the gills of the
soft shell crab. Homemade Russian dressing is made with ketchup, aioli,
cornichons and herbs. Rye bread rounds are griddled in clarified butter, layered
with swiss cheese between them, and finely brushed with Dijon mustard on one
side. The softshell is sautéed, and assembled on the crouton with sauerkraut
finished with fresh herbs layered between the crab. The dish is garnished with
toasted juniper berry dust and ground allspice. A pickled green tomato and a baby
cornichon are served on the side.
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Sea urchin crumble bake ragu in shell with sour dough bread crust The sea urchin
is bound with minced shallots, lobster butter, lemon zest and tobbasco. The sea
urchin fondue is packed into its shell and topped with sourdough croutons
seasoned with Aleppo pepper, salt and white pepper. The shells are put under
the broiler to add a touch more crunch and color to the croutons. Wth dish is
served topped with chives, and a section of yuzu on the side to be added right
before the dish is to be eaten. To add depth and character to the crumble, a lobster
bisque or fresh herb and citrus ice cream or mousse can top the crumble, and
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complete the image of a crumble. The warm comforting nature of the crumble
serves two puposes for me. Here a balance of seafood flavors is married through
opposing textures with complementing flavors. Secondly, we have used the
principle of a crumble to ease people into a slightly different or obscure seafood—
the sea urchin.
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Coulibiaca of sea urchin baked in rice paper Here we take the traditional
coulibiaca a pastry or bread shell filled with salmon, rice, eggs and a creamy rich
sauce and lighten the dish and focus its flavor. Instead of rice and bread we use
rice paper. For the filling, we make a mousse with crème fraiche, cooked egg yolk,
scallions, curry powder and ginger. Roasted garlic and crystal hot sauce adds
depth to the mousse. Finally, the sea urchin is folded into the mousse, and then
wrapped in the rice paper. The paper is brushed with curry oil and cooked till it
is golden brown and warmed through. An herb emulsion and a sea urchin
vinaigrette to highlight the flavors is served with the coulibiac, and it is also served
with a small herb salad.(Traditional garnishes to coulibiac include melted butter as
well as the very traditional vésiga—dried spinal marrow of the sturgeon)
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Truffles, port, crème fraiche, eggs, bacon in an egg cup with a toast round crust—
butter, fleur de sel, cracked black pepper The flavors all blend and infuse each
other to create a rich whole uniform flavor. The toast crust on the egg cup adds
both the idea of breaking into the egg to get the surprise filling, as well as acting as
a palate to carry the rich flavors of the baked egg. Additional toast should be
served on the side so that the diner can mop up all the intense decadent juices.
The model for this dish is the simple shirred egg and toast. The bacon is added to
the dish as a bacon emulsion to add gelatin and a silky smoothness but to not
overpower the texture and headiness of the truffles. The crème fraiche with its
infusion of port syrup acts to provided acidity, sweetness and protection to the
egg so that it does not overcook. The seasonings on the toast allow the toast to
have its own flavor as well so that the contents of the egg cup do not completely
mask the fact that the toast is also very important to the dish, not just a shovel.
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Oyster Rockefeller with Indian spinach Lime pickle hollandaise with the lime
pickle oil, minced shallots, lime juice and ghee is glacaged on top of the oyster
which sits on a bed of Indian spiced spinach with tomato concasse. Fried shallots,
lime zest, jalapeno brunoise and chives top the oyster(which is trimmed and
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cleaned). The oyster mimics the traditional oyster Rockefeller in appearance and
texture, but the bright unfamiliarity of the Indian spices bolts the palate to
attention. The briny oyster similarly is balanced by the acidic heat of the spinach
and the nutty, creamy spice of the hollandaise.
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Grilled prosciutto wrapped snails on rosemary skewers The rosemary skewers
infuse the snail internally with the piny clarity of the rosemary. The proscutto
chars slightly and the fat melts and bastes the snail. These skewers, with the
charred rosemary sit on a bed of olive oil and onion marinated potatoes and
blanced garlic pearls with a creamy texture and a mellowed garlic taste. Baby
watercress and parsley also fleck the potato salad. The juices from the skewer
drip into the potatoes which openly absorb the flavors. A red wine and red wine
vinegar syrup garnishes the plate with fresh black pepper and lemon zest. The
final addition of the red wine syrup cuts through the richness of the dish.
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Oysters on hot truffle sausage The champagne poached oyster sits atop a pork
and truffle sausage seasoned with sweet spices and a touch of truffle oil. A
banyuls vinegar and pork jus emulsion cuts through the rich pork and helps it
balance with the briny oyster. The oyster is served with a small celery leaf and
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black truffle salad garnished with pancetta cracklings and hazelnut oil to balance
the dish. The combination of oysters and sausage references to the south west of
France.( source accurate account)
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Savory soufflés: mushroom with truffle fondue; potato with caviar sabayon
These petite soufflés served in small bowls or funky espresso cups are served
with a pitcher of the appropritate fondue or ragu on the side to be poured on by
the diner. Simmilarly, an aromatic spice or herb should garnish the plate and the
top of the soufflé as does the traditional powdered sugar such that its perfume or
consumption completes the dish while its non use would not be detrimental to the
dish. To see a warm billowing soufflé in miniature at this point in the meal is
shocking. The diner is not expecting a dessert style course at this point.
Similarly, the soufflés lightness and focused flavor balances the intense flavors of
the accompanying ragouts.
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Snails with prosciutto emulsion The snails are set in a farinaette which then sits
on the prosciutto emulsion and is garnished with a garlic, lemon and parsley
butter. Similarly a salad of garlic chips, lemon zest confit, prosciutto batons and
parsley garnish the plate to represent the same flavors in a raw or salad form.
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Thus the duality of garnishes to the snail farinette refreshes as well as intensifies
the dish. Here several of the traditional garnishes for snails combine to form
balance as well as a level of comfort. Snails are not everyday eating for most
people, but the garnishes are. Thus the enjoyment of the snails is due in a large
part to the snails.
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Tea smoked sweet maine shrimp: Marinade—brown sugar, rice vinegar, dry
sherry, oyster sauce, salt, five spice powder, chile oil; For the smoke—two
tablespoons of long grain rice, two tablespoons black tea leaves, two tablespoons
brown sugar The essence of the dish is the asian marinade and the depth from the
tea and rice smoke. The shrimp are served tossed with a vinaigrette like the
marinade with pickled vegetables like burdock, shiitake, scallion, carrot, wild
celery, lemon and lime segments. The dish is garnished with toasted ground rice
and fresh lime zest.
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Lobster with tamarind barbeque sauce just glazed like eel The barbeque glaze is
made with a reduced asian spiced lobster stock thickened with tamarind and
homemade ketchup. The knuckles are placed on a lobster antennae skewer and
passed under the broiler to warm. They are brushed a second time and garnished
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with sesame seeds, scallions, mint chiffonade and lime zest. The skewer of
knuckles is seved with asian spiced coleslaw with the addition of seaweed which
sits on top of a marinated potato round seasoned with whole grain mustard,
cilantro and bacon brunoise to mimic backyard barbeque. The plate is garnished
with toasted mustard seeds and the barbeque sauce.
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Nantucket bay scallop and sweet maine shrimp chowder The scallops and shrimp
are seared separately and cooked only on one side to create great caramelization
and to ensure they are cooked only two thirds of the way in the pan. The
separated pans are deglazed and the pan juices are poured over the seafood. A
shrimp and scallop bouillon is made from the shrimp shells and caramelized
scallop trimmings. This bouillon is reduced and mounted with crème fraiche and a
touch of butter. The juices from the seared seafood are blended into the soup and
poured over the seafood tableside. The scallops and the shrimp are garnished with
baby mint, toasted walnuts and lemon zest and arranged in the bowl. They are
topped with a light herbal cloud and brought to the table where the soup is
poured over tableside.
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Sweet maine shrimp with warm mayonnaise The sweet maine shrimp is tossed
with spicy cod roe and pickled jalapeno mayonaise and is arranged on top of an
avocado puree. The dish is warmed in the broiler to gratin the shrimp and the
mayonnaise while keeping the avocado cool. The dish is garnished with lime zest,
sesame seeds and cilantro. The avocado puree is lightened with whipped cream
and crème fraiche and stabilized with gelatin so a hot and cold savory pudding is
created with this dish. The dish is garnished with salt water crackers ( a thin
variation of oyster crackers, almost tuile like with a background buttery quality to
accent the avocado) to enforce the fresh marine quality of the shrimp.
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Cuttlefish with cardoons, artichokes and beaumes de venise The flavors are sweet
and earthy. The dish works with the final addition of shaved aged goat cheese on
top of this salad. The artichokes are braised first and then caramelized in curry
oil. The cuttlefish are slowly braised in the artichoke braising liquid with the
cardoons. Both ingredients are cut in thin strips. The beaumes de venise is made
into a creamy emulsion with rice vinegar and crème fraiche. It is thickened with
minced chives at the last minute. The braised cuttlefish and carcoons are arranged
on top of the curry roasted artichokes. The emulsion sits below the artichokes.
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The dish is garnished with toasted curry poeder and aged goat cheese is shaved
over the warm salad.
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Softshell crab with sherry mustard vinaigrette, salad of favas, mint, tomato
concasse, fresh ham sliced in thin sheets, mint oil and fava hash—ham, red onion,
brunoise of fava beans, champagne vinaigrette with lemon oil. The hash allows for
a caramelization of the flavors of the salad. The vinaigrette is folded into the hash
to deglaze the pan and bring the ragu together. The ingredients are first
caramelized in lemon oil and brown butter, and then when a rich color and flavor
develops is deglazed with the vinegar(balanced with sugar, water and minced
shallots) The hash is finished with fresh mint chiffonade. The salad aspect of the
dish has the favas, red onions and mint marinated in a slightly creamy sherry and
Chinese mustard vinaigrette. The ham is thinly sliced so it warms ever so slightly
when placed on the crab. The salad is also refreshed with the addition of tomato
concasse. The hash or ragu is framed by a thin ring of mint oil, which the soft
shell crab cut in half sits on. The salad sits in between the halfs of crab. The ham
sits between the crab halves, and a thin ring of the mustard vinaigrette borders half
the plate. Flavors and textures as well as varying temperatures allow for many
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taste profiles to exist within this dish. The vinaigrettes creamy and hot and minty
and vinegary allow for the soft shell itself to be appreciated with multiple
balancing and similar flavor combinations. The key is the freshness of the herbs
and the ingredients. Otherwise the dish is simple. Finally, toasted mustard seed
dust forms a line to the opposite side as the mustard vinaigrette.
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White truffle polenta with three minute egg The polenta is baked in the oven for a
controlled even cooking. The polenta is made initially with chicken stock, and
then enriched with butter, olive oil, mascarpone, crème fraiche, lemon zest, truffle
oil and parmesan. The polenta is topped with a poached silky chicken egg and
seasoned with fleur de sel and white pepper. A brown butter and dark chicken
froth surrounds the polenta, and white truffles are shaved over the egg at the table.
The dish is about a poor man’s decadence. The dish without the truffles is still
incredible. The truffles add the riches and make it a brand new dish. The warm
egg blooms the shaved truffles, and the nutty brown butter and rich chicken jus
emulsion brings the flavors of a simple roast to the table.
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Hearts of palm with raw foie gras center, or lobster mousse which is steamed to
order to cook through and then sliced, or to serve the two together as a lobster foie
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gras combo garnished with pickled hearts of palm rounds. Fresh foie gras is
pushed through a tammis and then packed into braised hearts of palm. The hearts
are sliced, seasoned and seared to order to prevent oxidation. The slices are seared
only on one side, basted and removed from the pan to rest and finish gently
cooking. The actual hearts of the hearts are pickled with mustard seeds, cilantro,
lemon, lime and orange jus and zest as well as a confit of their segments. The
plate is garnished with a soy and ginger syrup infused with jalapeno and glucose
to balance the saltiness and keep it from getting to sweet. The lobster stuffed
hearts of palm are steamed to just set the mousse and are sliced after cooking.
They are then layed in a row interspersed with the foie gras, showing the pink and
the brown. The lobster rounds have the additional garnish of lobter roe, but both
are seasoned with lobster salt. Finally, the dish should be one slice of foie gras in
palm and one slice of lobster, sitting on a ragu of the pickled palm and ringed by
lobster oil still with the soy syrup and lobster coral. A small cilantro pluche joins
both rounds.
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Calamari with pumpkin ginger emulsion The pumpkin is first roasted in the oven
on top of sliced ginger, allspice and smoked chile peppers(aji limon). Similarly,
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pumpkin juice is steeped like a tea with ginger, lime zest and lime pickle. The tea
is strained and poured over the roasted pumpkin. The two are cooked together
and then pureed and strained. The pumpkin emulsion is frothed with butter
making sure to adjust the consitency with water and balancing the flavor with lime
juice. The calamari is sautéed quickly in ginger oil and finished with minced lime
pickle brunoise. Toasted pumpkin seeds add crunch to the dish, and a brunoise of
pickled pumpkin adds final texture to the ragu.
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Pumpkin capponata: raisins, apple, cilantro, harissa The pumpkin is initially
diced then deep fried in olive oil. The ragu is then created with balsamic vinegar,
raisins white and brown, and diced apple. Minced red onion that have been
sweated out add depth to the capponata. The capponata is finished with harissa,
fresh cilanteo and lime juice. The sweet and sour capponata is served as chutney
to accompany broiled langositnes. The langostines are seasoned with lobster salt
and brushed with harissa before broiling. An apple cider and cider vinegar syrup
garnishes the plate along with toasted ground coriander and lemon zest.
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Vegetable ragu finished with cured meats Here the addition of the cured meats
from prosciutto to Smithfield ham which are folded into the vegetable ragu at the
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last moment add points of meaty rich saltiness to the different crisp fresh
vegetables or the slowly roasted and braised root vegetables. Other meats to
consider are pancetta, Serrano ham, guanciale, bacon, jambon de bayonne. The
success of this dish is due to the quality and preparation of the vegetables as well
as the last minute addition of the cured meat so that it does not cook, but merely
warms through. These vegetable ragu’s are garnished with fresh herbs and an
emulsion of either an herbal tisane with butter olive oil and vinegar or a richer roast
vegetable broth with the same additons. The proportion of meat to vegetables
should leave the diner wanting more of both ingredient for they balance each other.
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Summer beans in soft boiled egg sauce Fresh summer beans from dragons tongue
to fava are cooked just through and shocked. The beans are warmed in a reduced
chicken jus emulsified with pickled mustard seed butter.The ragu is finished with
chives and tomato concasse. A poached silky chicken egg sits on top of the ragu
garnished with toasted mustard seeds, fleur de sel, lemon zest and Aleppo pepper.
The creamy egg yolk combines with the acidic butter sauce and fresh beans to
create the taste of a summer garden. The flavors balance rich, salty, bitter(from
the mustard seeds), sour, herbal and sweet from the ripe beans.
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Shell razor clams before cooking Purge the razor clams then shuck and trim them.
These long strips of clam can now be gently poached in beurre monte or deep fried
in tempura. The tempura clam is seasoned with lemon fleur de sel, fried parsly,
and lemon confit emulsion. Baby sorrel adds a fresh acidity to the crispy clams.
The flavors here bring me back to my clamming days when I used to eat dozens of
steamed clams with drawn butter and lemon. Shoes were not worn for months at
a time nor were there any worries. The dish is simplicity with textures and
flavors.
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Braised pigs tails with poached oyster, charred jalapeno, and braising liquid
emulsion The pigs tail is braised whole and when it is cool, it is boned and
seasoned on the inside. The tail is then rolled into a tight roulade(and check
pressing flat in a battara sushi mold) and chilled. It is slice into medallions,
brushed with mustard and breaded then fried. The crispy tail sits on an emulsion
of the reduced braising liquid and charred then pickled jalapeno. An oyster
poached in banyuls emulsion sits on top of the crispy tail. A second approach to
this same dish reserves the braised tail meat and adds it to an emulsion of butter,
banyuls vinegar and the reduced pork jus. The oyster is just set in this liquid and
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the entire fondue is spooned into a small dish or oyster shell. The oyster is
topped with a salsa made from minced red onions and pickled charred jalapenos
and olive oil.
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Hamachi or tuna with bone marrow flan The hamachi is warmed in 110 degree
rendered bone marrow. It sits on a parsley puree and is garnished with fleur de
sel, black pepper and chives as well as a balsamic red wine syrup and a slice of
bone marrow flan to add creamy richness to the dish. The flan has a texture of
melting tofu so texturally it is easily enjoyed in this dish while it also accentuateds
the bone marrow which is used to cook the hamachi. The syrup adds acidity and
richness to the dish as well as being a traditional part of a sauce with bone marrow
(bordelaise sauce)
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Parmantier: Potato or other “foam” topped ragu served in small copper pots with
fine bread crust then serve with small appropriate salad: sea urchin in crab ver jus
butter; lobster and black truffle; braised lamb with sweet potato These parmentier
allow decadent potatoes to be lightened while still remaining rich. These potatoes
or other somewhat neutral purees act as springboards for the intense fondues and
ragus in the bottom of the pots. The fine bread crumb on the top of the
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parmaniter adds both texture and can be used to add a complimenting flavor. The
accompanying salads add refreshment to the dish and the herbs and greens as well
as the dressing should punctuate the flavors in the parmentier.
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Cauliflower puree with crème fraiche and brown butter is a decadent garnish to
quicly broiled hamachi. The hamachi is brushed with lemon oil and seasoned with
fleur de sel and then placed under the broiler. The oil and the fat from the fish
caramelize on the exposed side. The fish is removed to a plate to rest and thus
genltly and slowly cook through. The hamachi sits on a silky puree of
cauliflower, balanced with brown butter, lemon juice and crystal hot sauce. Crème
fraiche adds to the refreshing tang in the puree as well. Small cauliflower florettes
are pan roasted and seasoned with lemon, salt and black pepper. These florettes
form a nest on top of the hamachi where a quenelle of caviar is placed. The plate
is garnished with lemon zest, and a chive baton crowns the caviar. The broiled
hamachi with the slight char is balanced by the silky smooth cauliflower, and
similarly is coaxed along with the roasted cauliflower. The nuttyness in the
roasted cauliflower is also picked up in the background flavor of the puree, the
brown butter. The explosive salty flavor of the caviar seasons the fish with true
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sea salt thus enhancing its marine cleanliness and freshness. The background
flavors of lemon from zest to oil brighten the flavors of this dish on all levels.
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Papillote of truffles, bacon, chestnuts, cabbage, onions and foie gras fat and
banyuls vinaigrette poured table side(with minced red onions) The joy of opening
a present. That is what cooking in papillote means to me. Here, the elements of
this dish are first prepared separately. The cabbage is braised until a sweet and
sour fondue is created. The chestnuts are glazed with herbs, caramel, bacon and
stock. The onions are pan roasted in rendered bacon fat from the bacon lardoons.
These ingredients are then arranged in a foil package, previously brushed with foie
fat. A chicken roasting jus and a nob of sweet butter are added to the package, and
black truffles are arranged on top. The papillote is then baked in the oven until
puffed and the ingredients are warmed through. The papillote is opened tableside
so the diner can enjoy the fresh heady aroma from the package. The papillote
mixture is then served onto a plate and garnished with a banyuls and black truffle
vinaigrette to highlight the dish. A side plate of salt, pepper and chives is left for
the diner to add more seasoning to varying bites.
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Poach eggs in plastic packages: season with goosefat, salt and pepper, truffles,
truffle oil(marinate two days then poach and serve with juices) Here eggs are
actually marinated with the truffles, cooked with the truffles and served with the
truffles. The technique allows for the transfer of flavors to be really appreciated
for there are no other flavors to get in between the truffles and the eggs. The
goosefat has a richness which accentuates the flavor of the yolk while also
carrying the truffles heady perfume. The truffled egg is served with fleur de sel
salted butter and toasted brioche. Here is a simple example of the benefits of
cooking en sous vide. The egg absorbs the truffles aroma, and no flavors or juices
are lost. The egg emerges from the package and is placed in a shallow bowl with a
cloche. The cloche keeps the egg warm and the perfume of the truffle enclosed so
that the diner will enjoy the entire experience. The toast is served on the side
along with a small crock of the salted butter. In similar preparation the egg could
be served on an indented plate with a glass cloche on top so it steams up slightly
and the diner can see only part of what is underneath. In this presentation the
toast is served on the plate with the crock of butter still on the side.
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Slice squid so when cooked it resembles rigatoni served with a pesto sauce and
toasted pinenuts. The squid is opened up and cleaned and then scored vertically
and cut into rectangles. When these rectangles are sautéed in this scenario in garlic
oil they curl up to resemble rigatoni. The warm squid is then quickly tossed with
a blanched basil pesto. The rigatoni is arranged on top of sliced herb marinated
potato rounds. The dish is garnished with toasted salted pine nuts and baby basil
leaves and cayenne pepper.
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Pine nut and black truffle crust The pine nuts are lightly toasted and coarsely
chopped and folded together with minced black truffles and truffle butter. This
paste is rolled between two sheets of plastic wrap and refrigerated until firm, at
which point it is cut into appropritate shapes. The crust is baked on slow cooked
fish or shellfish fondues like crab or lobster baked in small copper pots. The
truffle butter melts into the fish and flavors it while the pine nuts take on a rich
golden color and flavor and the minced truffles bloom. The crust adds both texture
and depth of flavor to the dish.
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Warm crab salad in a lettuce bundle with citrus confit and a warm tarragon and
fennel puree The citrus confit is grapefruit, lime, meyer lemon if available
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stabilized with a rice vinegar and sugar syrup steeped with ginger. Tarragon fennel
puree is made with blanched tarragon and fennel tops and the assistance of
chlorophyll. The crab meat is marinated with a ginger-lime mayonnaise and
seasoned with soy, sesame oil, and togarishi. The crab meat is wrapped in butter
lettuce leaves and is warmed in beurre monte flavored with minced shallots and the
three citrus juices. Reduced blood orange juice scented with toasted fennel and
balanced with glucose garnishes the dish by being the base for the dish. It runs
through the middle of the plate. The tarragon and fennel puree sits underneath the
package. Fried lotus chips garnish the top of the parcel with the citrus confit
underneath. Citrus zests and ground toasted sesame seeds garnish the plate.
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Warmed oysters en cocotte with sea beans, cucumber brunoise, jalapeno, chives,
tobasco, sherry syrup and browned butter An intense oyster stew with refreshing
crunch and marine salinity. Even the sherry a complimentary beverage to an
oyster stew is concentrated into the dish. The brown butter adds a nutty quality
to the dish and acts as bath for warming and setting the oyster. The other
ingredients are warmed in an emulsion of crème fraiche and the oyster liquor
balance with tobasco and finished with butter and the chives. The ragu is placed
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in the oyster shell, and the brown butter poached oyster is set on the pile. The
frothed emulsion surrounds the oyster, and a drop of the sherry syrup nape’s the
oyster. The shell is replaced and the jewel is brought to the table. The dish is
inspired by M.F.K. Fisher’s writing about oysters. Here we simply focus the
elements so that the entire experience is paired down to one sensual bite, flavors
lingering now only the memory remains.
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Warmed oysters with sourkraut in the shell with the lid The sauerkraut is enriched
with a brunoise of bacon and toasted sausage spices. The dish is served with a
caraway scented potato chip to be eaten with the oyster. The oyster itself is
poached in an emulsion of sauerkraut juice and butter finished with herbs and
toasted juniper berry. A rich and still refreshing wintertime oyster dish. The
homemade sauerkraut adds depth and character to the dish. The creamy acidic and
buttery oyster explodes on the palate and the salty chewy bacon adds texture and
meatiness to the dish and prevents the sauerkraut from overpowering the dish.
The inspiration for this dish is choucroute, the one pot Alsatian dish which is
narrowed down to one shell. Again the top of the shell is put back in place to
keep the heat and aromas in one place until the diner is ready to eat the dish.
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Warm haricot vert salad with bacon, lovage, potatoes, onions and vinegar The
haricot verts are warmed in bacon emlsion, and tomato dice is folded into the ragu
at the last moment. Thinly sliced potatoes are marinated in a mustard vinaigrette.
The potatoes sit on a slow cooked red wine vinegar and red onion puree. Lovage
oil garnishes the plate, and celery leaf chiffonade garnishes the warmed salad.
Toasted mustard seeds garnish the plate highlighting the mustard marinated
potatoes.(the dish can also be plated with the potato rounds on top of the beans
to mimic a potato galette. In this case the potatoes are topped with the celery
leaves seasoned with a lemon vinaigrette.
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Crab meat with sweet and sour soup(or soft shell with pickled vegetables and
sweet and sour sauce) The sweet and sour broth is made with tamarind, roasted
red peppers, and charred jalapeno peppers. This sauce has tang and sweetness
which compliments the crab. Chipolte in adobo also add heat and richness to the
broth. An herb and salted cucumber baton salad with mint, thai basil, cilantro,
fried shallots, crushrd toasted peanuts and brunoised jalapeno. The salad is
dressed with a light lime vinaigrette. The broth is frothed and garnished with lime
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pickle oil. The flavor of the pepper and the tamarind cut through the rich crispy
softshell. The background heat is balanced by the light refreshing herb salad.
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Make croquette filling lighter and more stable with gelatin bases The technique
here allows for a stable light filling to be intensely flavored, but not dripping with
richness. The croquette filling is made with reduced stock, stabilized with some
gelatin and then folded into whipped cream and egg whites. This base is then
frozen in molds or in sheet pans so that they can be easily cut at a later time. The
croquette filling is then breaded, and refrozen. These croquettes can also be filled
with caviar butter or truffle fondue to add another element to the delicate dish.
These fondues are either thick enough cold or frozen so they do not ooze
everywhere when the croquettes are being made. These croquettes are then served
with complimentary sauce and a petite salad to cut through the fried dish. The
techniques in this dish are important. The flavors can change with the season or
the dish, but the ability to make a light intense croquette is very difficult. In fact,
this technique or idea is a reaction to many croquettes I have eaten which have
acted as lead weights in my belly.
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White asparagus with warm sauce gribiche The asparagus is braised in a sweet
and sour tisane of lemon and its varietals:lemon zest, juice, lemongrass and lemon
thyme. The broth is first steeped with the asparagus peelings and these aromatics
and then its flavors are balanced with salt, sugar and more aromatics. The braised
asparagus are then gently warmed and arranged on a pool of sauce gribiche made
with brown butter. The flavorings for the gribiche are held mixed together, except
for the herbs which are folded in at the last moment. The asparagus is seasoned
with fleur de sel, black pepper and lemon zest. A dust of olive oil toasted
almonds adds a distinctive textural contrast to the dish as well. The dust is a line
off to the side so that the diner can dip the asparagus in the crumbs and taste the
crunch themselves. The warm gribiche with the brown butter base adds richness
and decadence to the asparagus. The toasted almonds accentuate the flavor of the
gribiche and tie the dish together. The asparagus itself is also garnished with baby
tarragon leaves.
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Wasabi tartar sauce with crab meat, tuna or softshell balanced with ketchup
emulsion and French fries The tartar sauce is made with pickled green onions or
ramps. The base gets heat from the wasabi, and Japanese sea salt and soy sauce
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pique the flavors, and lime juice or ideally yuzu juice completes the flavor base.
The ketchup emulsion is drawn from homemade ketchup, but is enhanced with
five spice powder, minced ginger and charred jalapeno. Twice cooked potato
triangles mimic French fries, and a baby mustard green salad with oven dried
tomatoes and a yuzu vinaigrette completes the dish. The fresh wasabi with its
bracing cleanliness is the focus point.
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For different fondues and ragus use appropriate stocks and broth: shrimp, clam,
lobster, mushroom Here is a point which needs to be expressed so that readers
understand the need to make different stocks and reductions. These stocks are the
underling flavor component of certain dishes. Their presence and proper
execution decides the success of a dish or perhaps a meal.
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Sardines and salad burnett(simple on a plate with dill vinaigrette) The sardines
are complimented by this instant pickle, the salad burnett(with its cucumber
flavor) and the dill vinaigrette. The sardine is quickly grilled so that the skin chars,
and residual heat will carry over the cooking process. The sardine filet rests skin
side down on a pool of lemon oil vinaigrette so the fish pulls in these refreshing
flavors. The dill vinaigrette is made at the last moment with both dill oil and dill
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vinegar. The vinaigrette is enriched with brunoise of onion and cucumber that
were marinated in the dill vinegar. The vinaigrette is finished with baby dill sprigs.
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Nutty chanterelles and sweet corn with: lobster; ragu of clams and thai basil; Here
the essence of a lobster bake is corralled by the forest and the garden. The thai
basil with its anise undertones refreshes the rich elements of the ragu while also
highlighting the earthy mushrooms. The mushrooms are roasted and basted with
butter and fresh basil to begin the infusion of basil throughout the dish. The flavor
of the basil and the sweet buttery corn are perfect partners, not just for their
seasonality, but also for their point and counterpoint flavors. The corn is rich and
sweet, while the basil has a floral perfume with an almost sour taste but also with
a refreshing heat. The briny tender clams incorporate the flavors of the sea which
are carried on by the sweet tender lobster knuckles. The ragu is ringed with a basil
oil, and a corn and toasted clove tuile finishes the dish. The ragu is balanced with
a pinch of cayenne pepper, and the acidity is balance with lime juice and
champagne vinegar. Green onion chiffonade and pickled jalapeno brunoise round
out the ragu.
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Parmesan foam with poached eggs and asparagus The asparagus sits in the
bottom of a shallow bowl with cloudlike wisps of parmesan foam covering the
dish. The asparagus peeks through like a small raft at sea. A small dice of lemon
and balsamic gelée’s made with agar agar are hidden beneath the foam. A poached
guinea hen egg or other small but rich yolked egg sits on top of the asparagus. The
asparagus is seasoned with olive oil, fleur de sel and black pepper. A parmesan
tuile is served alongside the dish, and fresh parmesan is shaved over the asparagus
at the table. The hidden cubes of warm gelée beneath the wisps of parmesan
punctuate the flavor of the vegetal asparagus and the gamey parmesan. Here it is
what we do not see but feel on our palate which directs the dish. These baby
gelée’s are like acupuncture for the palate.
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Soak softshell crab in buttermilk A technique to add tang which also helps keep
the softshells tender. The technique usually applied to fried chicken allows for a
cripy fried softshell. When using the buttermilk to soak the crab, I also season it
with appropriate spices to the dish. Similarly, I usually use the buttermilk soaked
softshells paired with more southern style garnishes, for the flavors just seem to
work. In an insightful contrast to using the buttermilk soaked softshell primarily
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with southern accompaniments, I would also like to use the buttermilk in dishes
where a cleansing tang is needed, thus with Indian spiced crab or even using
buttermilk in the finishing of a sauce to add zip where crème fraiche would be to
heavy.
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Pickled green peach carpacio with rabbit kidney The peaches are pickled in a
liquid of rice and champagne vinegar, with mustard seeds, ginger, allspice, clove,
cinnamon, and fresh basil. The green peach is peeled, and shaved and cut into
squares and finally layered onto plates. The peach is brushed with olive oil and
seasoned with the pickling juice, black pepper and fleur de sel. The rabbit kidneys
are roasted in butter, and deglazed with sherry vinegar. The kidneys are set aside
to rest, and sherry soaked currants are added to the quick pan sauce that was
created. A nob of butter is added to the pan with a pinch of pink peppercorn
dust. The kidney’s are sliced and arranged on the pickled peach and garnished
with black salt or smoked salt and drizzled with the sauce. The currants underline
the dish in a teardrop. Fresh green onions complete the dish. The peaches while
not ripe have an intense floral aroma and great acidity which allows their flavor to
be harnessed in a pickle and then used to compliment the rich rabbit kidney’s.
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Butter poached cabbage with pancetta and oysters(or calves brains) The cabbage
is chiffonaded, and blanched prior to being warmed up with the pancetta, pickled
mustard seeds, in a champagne vinegar beurre monte. The ragu is finished with
chives. The oyster is breaded in panko crumbs and quickly pan fried. The oyster
is seasoned with salt, and a carway dust garnishes the plate as well as a Riesling
syrup. Sweet and sour balance rich and spicy. The cabbage is given heat through
a pinch of cayenne pepper. It adds heat and focus but will not distract from the
champagne vinegar. The crispy oyster then bursts with brine and then is
refreshed by the cabbage with its fat which then carries the flavor across the
palate.
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Softshell crab with shaved mortadella, mustard oil and mayonnaise, pepperoncini
and aged balsamic syrup The flavors resemble an Italian sub, spicy, fatty rich and
acidic. The softshell crab is surrounded by these sandwich ingredients and is
pushed forward by their flavors. The ingredients are not complicated. That is the
point to the dish. A simple sandwich frames the softshell crab. The flavors
coexist in harmony. That is why the dish works. The Italian sandwich is
garnished with grilled bread rubbed with garlic, oil and fresh tomato. This final
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aspect of the dish rounds aut the flavors and the sweet acidic tomato cleanses the
palate.
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Pastrami salmon reuben—sauce: cream cheese, pickled jalapeno, minced
cornichons, ketchup, salt, pepper and tobasco I really enjoy the thick hand cut
pastrami at Katz’s deli. I always get it in the form of a reuben. Here we use the
brisket of salmon cured like pastrami in a wet rub of molasses and soy with other
flavors as well, and finally being rubbed with coriander and several peppercorns.
The reuben is served on giddled rye bread with warmed sauerkraut. The sauce for
the reuben combines the tang of swiss cheese with the smoothness of Russian
dressing. The pickled jalapeno is key to the dish for it adds additional heat as
well as acidity to the mixture which helps balance the rich salmon. Furthermore,
the jalapeno’s heat compliments the spice rub on the outside of the salmon. A
ring of pickled mustard seeds in mustard oil garnishes the dish. A great deli dish
has influenced a whimsical fish dish.
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Salsa verde with crab fondue Blanched parsley is used to make this salsa verde
extremely vibrant. The crabmeat is warmed in a caper juice flavored beurre monte.
The crabmeat picks up the acidity without the visually dulling appearance of the
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capers. Minced red onions are also folded into the crab fondue. The salsa verde is
emulsisfied into mussel liquor and mounted with butter which surrounds the
crabmeat fondue. A lemon scented potato tuile garnishes the dish. Lemon oil
floats in the broth and just warmed it perfumes and awakens the nose. The
crabmeat is enriched with the salsa verde with its salty and herbal undertones.
The crisp lemon scented potato tuile adds delicate texture and refreshes the palate.
The tuile is made with pureed potato seasoned with salt, lemon and black pepper.
It is baked between sheets of parchment to remain wafer thin and delicate. (check
using seasoned potato juice dried out for even thinner tuile) Caper, garlic and
anchovy dust garnishes the plate to enhance the flavors of the salsa verde and the
crab fondue.
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Softshell crab with salsa verde and corn, red pepper and red onion relish The corn
relish or chutney is warmed and finished with green onion chiffonade. The
chutney base consists of a basil and clove infused sugar vinegar syrup. The
chutney gets depth from the red onion, minced jalapeno and red pepper. The
chutney gets finished with a large sachet of basil to reinforce background flavors.
The salso verde ties the herbal qualities of the corn chutney to the aquatic flavors
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of the crispy soft shell crab. Similarly, a sweet corn emulsion adds wisps of
perfectly ripe rich corn to the dish to counterbalance the acidic chutney. The dish
itself is garnished with caper, anchovy and garlc dust to enhance the rich flavors
inherent in the crab and the salsa verde.
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Tomato clafoutis made with baby tomatoes(season first to draw out excess
moisture): two eggs, two egg yolks, one third cup of heavy cream or crème fraiche,
one half a cup of grated parmesaon (use caprinho), two teaspoons thyme, baby
basil Here is the recipe for individual tomato clafoutis. The concentrated flacvor
of the tomato is rounded out by the smooth custardy clafoutis base. The crème
fraiche adds tang to the base to tone down the richness. The grated caprinho
cheese adds depth to the base as well, adding salty, tangy herbal undertones with a
slight meatiness. The caprinho acts to add umami to the dish. The clafoutis is
plated with a ring of basil oi around it, and a quenelle of a golden tomato sorbet on
top with a green tomato tuile on top. The tuile is made by slicing green tomatoes
very thin and brushing them with glucose. The tuile is then baked between sil
pats until crispy and dry with the flavors concentrated. When removing from the
oven season with salt and pepper. Fresh black pepper and baby basil leaves
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complete the dish. Ideally the clafoutis are baked in small flan rings or disposable
custard cups and then use a cutter to trim the edges of the clafoutis.
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chanterelles and oyster fricassee Nutmeg will bring the dish together. Used
sparingly in several aspects of the dish the flavor of the nutmeg will enhance both
the chanterelles and the oyster. The baby chanterelles are roasted and basted with
butter and thyme. These chanterelles are then prepared a la greque with diced
miripoix including fennel. Champagne and sherry vinegar add the acidity to the
dish. Fresh grated nutmeg and toasted fennel seed are added to the mixture as it
rests overnight. Similarly, an herb sachet of tarragon, thyme, bay leaf, rosemary
and basil is also steeped in the mixture. The oysters are trimmed and cleaned and
their liquor is cooked with crème fraiche and the trimmings. The oyster base is
strained and fresh nutmeg is grated in as it cools. The mushroom mixture is
warmed and finished with chives and baby basil. The oysters are poached in the
oyster cream which just napes the oyster. A drizzle of the oyster cream shows
up in the reduce a la greque sauce. The oyster itself is garnished with a crispy
oyster mushroom chip and seasoned with ground nutmeg.
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Crab meat with kimchee vinaigrette The kimchee is both fermented and spicy, so
the crab is already being brought into balance. Furthermore, the crunch of the
kimchee in the crabmeat adds texture. A caramelized red pepper broth accents the
spice in the kimchee while also smoothing out and adding sweetness to the dish
which further supports the crab. A salad baby aromatic herbs from perilla to mint
should be served on the side of the dish. The salad acts to refresh the palate from
the spicy fermented flavors of the crab in kimchee vinaigrette.
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Veal shank roasting jus with sea urchin ragu The leftover concentrated pan jus
from whole roasted veal shanks is a decadent medium for balancing the briny
iodine quality of the sea urchin. The urchin is warmed with minced onions and
lemon confit. In fact, the warmed urchin sits on a fondant potato which sits on
the roasted veal jus. The potato is crunchy on the outside and creamy in the
center such that the warm sea urchin blends with the ingredients and a rich
soothing mouthfeel is created. Toasted ground nori garnishes the dish in order to
gently highlight the flavor of the sea urchin with a toasty background note of the
sea.
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Barbeque eel terrine with house made barbeque sauce The terrine is layered with
potato, shiso and barbequed eel. The eel is first cooked in a sake soy and ginger
braise. The eel is then dried and marinated in a tamarind based barbeque sauce.
The potatoes are slowly cooked as slices in an herb and garlic infused water. The
shiso is quickly blanched to take the raw edge off it. The terrine is assempled in
the batarra sushi mold. Once the terrine is set, it is rolled in toasted sesame seeds.
The terrine is seved with a baby shiso, chickweed and fingerling potato chip salad
tossed in a yuzu vinaigrette. The plate is garnished with a small check mark of the
barbeque sauce, and a sake gelée. The fattiness of the terrine is held in check by
the herbal but neutral potato and the shiso. Similarly, the barbeque sauce
compliments the eel while also marrying it with the other flavors. The background
of the tamarind with its innate acidity tones the fattiness of the eel and the sweet
spices in the barbeque sauce. The flavors of the dish marry traditional asian
flavorings with down home barbeque. The familiarity of flavors takes the edge off
the slightly esoteric ingredients.
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Roasted porcini with asian glazed eel The porcini are sliced and scored like foie
gras. The porcini halves are slowly roasted in a combination of evo and butter. A
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rosemary and thyme branch as well as one clove of garlic is added to the pan as
the mushroom roasts and is basted. The eel is brushed with a soy and yuzu syrup
and glazed in a salamander. It is finished with a dash of togarishi. The mushroom
rests on the glazed eel, and a small watercress salad dressed with a dill vinaigrette
finishes the dish. A few small pluches of dill accent the mushroom as well. The
mushroom is garnished with fleur de sel and spicy olive oil at the end. Fresh yuzu
or lemon zest and black pepper are sprinkled over the plate to add perfume and
aromatic acidity. The flavors mimic a steak houses steak and watercress with a
side of mushrooms. Yet the flavors are cleaner and lighter with and intense
richness as well. The dill refreshes the dish, and the spicy olive oil adds peppery
notes to the mushroom which picks up on the flavors of the watercress and the
spiced eel.
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Duet of toro-- grilled and tar tar with kabocha squash new style sashimi: ginger,
chives, sesame seeds, soy sesame oil, evo, fleur de sel The squash is intitially
sliced into wedges and steamed over an aromatic broth of ginger, soy, sesame
leaves and chile flakes. The squash is then chilled once it is cooked till tender.
The toro both kinds are seasoned with fleur de sel and olive oil. The toro is
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charred on the grill and arranged with the the tar tar on top and the squash on the
other sided of the plate. The squash is seasoned with the soy, yuzu and sesame
oil first and then finished with the garnishes so they remain crisp and do not get
water logged. The diner then uses the marinated squash as a seasoning for the
more neutral rich toro. The squash is firm and slightly starchy, so the fatty toro
in its two forms lubricates and balances the squash. Both ingredients are good on
their own, but when paired together they become a greater whole.
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Crab with crab apple:pickled, pureed and in beur monte with tarragon and chives
The dish begins with the association of crab and the acidic crab apple. The
techniques of pickling and slow cooking the apple for the puree and adding to the
pickling juice as the base for the beure monte are the driving forces behind the
dish. The subtle anise flavor of the tarragon is used in all aspects of the
preparation of the crab apples, so the final use of it as a garnish is appropriate and
appreciated. The dish is further brought together with spring onion petals which
were first steamed and then tossed in a light lemon vinaigrette. These silky sweet
onions tie the crab apple to the crab. To assemble the dish, tarragon oil is placed
in a ring and filled in with the crab apple puree. A pickled crab apple sits on the
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puree and the warm crab salad is mounded on top. The onion petals top the dish
along with baby tarragon leaves. Red onion dust garnishes the plate alongside a
reduction of the pickling liquid which runs on a diagonal on the side of the plate.
This dish finishes utilizing all aspects of the crab apple to highlight the sweet and
decadent flavors of the crab meat.
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Crab meat fondue with Serrano ham and ver jus shallot monte The crab is warmed
in a beurre monte seasoned with shallots and ver jus. Serrano ham is used in two
aspects of this dish. First is cooked down with cream and onions to make a play
off chipped beef. Secondly, it is draped on top of the crab fondue to lend its
melting delicate nature to the dish. The crab meat rests on a brioche crouton
which was griddled and sits in the Serrano ham sauce. A green onion oil frames
the sauce, and a green onion salad tops the Serrano ham. A pickled shallot or
pickled shallot slices will add depth to the dish. The pickling liquid will be the
base for the shallot ver jus monte.
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Smoked and glazed sturgeon belly with caviar sauce The sturgeon belly is cured
and then lightly smoked. The belly is then cut into pave’s which are then warmed
in 115 degree milk to heat through but not take away its silky texture. The belly
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is cured with salt, sugar, shallot, dill and fennel as well as three peppercorns for
one day. The cure is rinsed off and a pelicale is formed, afterwhich the fish is
lightly smoked with fennel branches. The sauce for the fish is based on mussel
liquor and fish fume reduced down with crème fraiche and mounted with butter.
The fish sits on a tight nest of julienned buckwheat crepes which join the theme as
well as absorb the sauce and the caviar which floats in it. A tight herb salad lightly
dressed sits on top of the fish, and red onion dust garnishes the plate. The
sturgeon is a fatty fish and its richness is mellowed and molded by the curing and
smoking process. The inclusion of caviar and its garnishes to the dish hoighlights
both the source of the caviar—the sturgeon—and the caviar itself.
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Brush just broiled fish with herb aioli The broiled fish be it sardine or hamachi
benefits twofold from the quick brushing of aioli. First of all, it marinates the fish
while it is still warm so that it has an opportunity to pull in the flavors of the aioli
and the herbs. Secondly, the aioli brings the fishes temperature down relatively
quickly, so it does not have as much of an opportunity to overcook.
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Bone marrow fritter with lemon confit and caviar The bone marrow is removed
from the bone and soaked in salted water to remove the blood. After a day of
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changing water the marrow should be white. At this point the marrow should be
floured, egged and crumbed. The marrow is then deep fried ideally in clarified
butter. The two garnishes for the marrow are caviar bound with crème fraiche, and
minced lemon confit. The lemon confit is actually pulverized to a paste so that it
is easily spread on the marrow. The caviar is simply held together with the crème
fraiche. Note the crème fraiche is seasoned with a dash of tobasco to add
background heat and acidity to cut through the rich marrow. The texture of this
dish is about bursting and smoothness. The molten marrow bursts through the
crispy exterior. The caviar bursts with flavor in the mouth, seasoning the rich
marrow. The lemon confit spread adds a smooth acidity to the elements of the
dish, further highlighted by the crème fraiche bound caviar.
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Quick smoked salmon carpaccio: lay salmon on plates with holes and with a
cloche( salmon is smoked as it goes to the table): smoke with herbs and
spices[similarly gently steam fish as it goes to the table over broth which may
actually be a soup] These two similar dishes are based on the idea of adding
action to the dining room. The fact that the fish is smoked or steamed as it goes
from the kitchen to the diner also insinuates freshness and the need to cook items
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at the last moment to keep them freshest and full of flavors. In either case, the
salmon is seasoned with fleur de sel, minced onions, citrus zests and black pepper.
The aromatics in the smoke or the broth can be adjusted to the season and the
weather such that the proper emotions are teased by the dish. Finally, according
to the aromatics used, a vegetable or fruit condiment is brought to the table as well
so that the diner can adjust and flavor the fish. The condiment adds both acidity
and texture to this silken fish.
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Hamachi with two egg sauce(caviar in egg yolk) with Espellette peppers—sweet
and hot from the town of espellette The hamachi is warmed in a peppery olive oil
in order to begin to add spice to the dish. The two egg sauce is made with melted
butter mixed with tobasco, fleur de sel and then organic egg yolks. A touch of
lemon allows the yolks to be warmed slightly more than usual without
coagulation. The caviar is folded in when the sauce is warmed. The hamachi then
sits on a pool of this two egg sauce, and a dust of the espellette pepper rounds
and piques the flavors in the dish. A marinated salad of roasted peppers tops the
hamachi as well as fennel fronds. The sweet roasted pepper is tamed by the egg
yolk while accenting the sweet fatty nature of the hamachi. Similarly, the caviar
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adds a desired salinity to the peppers. In fact, the pepper nest is topped with a
small dollop of caviar to further tie the flavors together. The introduction of the
fennel fronds is to add a refreshing note to the entire dish.
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Blackened mackerel with ginger and scallion Ginger and scallion are reworked
several ways in this dish. First, the mackerel is seasoned with five spices and then
blackened in a cast iron pan. The fish is then marinated in soy and olive oil
infused with ginger, scallion, cilantro and hot chile. Next, the an asian soffrito is
made—jalapeno, minced onion and ginger—to which chicken jus and crème fraiche
are added. When the sauce is thick, blanched green onion tops are pureed in and
the sauce is strained. The scallion whites are braised separately in a ginger and
onion broth flavored with kelp. The fish is removed from its marinade and is
patted dry. The sauce is placed on the plate and the braised scallions are arranged
on top. The fish sits on the scallions, and a salad of pickled ginger, scallion bias
and cilantro tops the fish. A soy syrup garnishes the plate along with togarishi.
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Morels and frog legs The two seem to surface at the same time of the year. This
dish uses the different components of the frog leg and the variable size of morels
to its advantage. The morels are first trimmed, rinsed and set to dry. The frog
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legs are broken down with the thighs being frenched, and the calve meat being
trimmed from the bone. The calve meat is then caramelize in a pan in olive oil and
butter. The meat is removed and the pan drippings are deglazed with vermouth
and then a chicken jus. This liquid fond is then poured over the frog meat. Next,
the small morels are pan roasted and basted with thyme and butter. They are also
added to the leg meat and their pan is also deglazed in similar fashion. The two
flavors of the morels and frog legs then marry overnight. The larger morels are
sliced into rings and then quickly roasted in olive oil, and finished with banyuls
vinegar and brunoise vegetables. A herb sachet consisting of dill, tarragon, thyme
and fresh bay leaf is added to permeate the mushrooms as they cool down. To
assemble the dish, the frog leg and morel fondue is warmed in a chicken jus and
finished with minced dill, chives, brunoise, and butter. The fondue is surrounded
by a ring of dill oil. The frog legs themselves are pan roasted and finshed with a
basting of curry butter. The legs are drained and arranged on the fondue. The
pickled morel rings are draped over the bones and a touch of the liquid is drizzled
over them. Baby herb pluches, morel and curry dust finish the plate.
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Bric dough wrapped hamachi Aromatics or ideally sliced black truffles are coated
on the outside of the hamachi. It is first brushed with truffle and olive oil and
seasoned with black pepper. The truffles are layered around the fish and then it is
wrapped in bric dough. The hamachi is then quickly seared on the outside to crisp
the dough and perfume the truffles. The fish rests while the garnish is assembled.
The fish sits on a salad of marinated apple dice and horizontal endive slices. They
are marinated in evo and meyer lemon juice. The fish sits on this salad which is
kept in place by a black truffle puree piped in a thin ring. The bric dough adds
crisp texture to the fish while also allowing it to be truffle basted under the thin
shell.
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Fried oyster with whole grain mustard sauce The whole grain mustard sauce is
chicken jus reduced down with crème fraiche and emulsified with pommery
mustard. The oyster is breaded with finely ground panko crumbs. The oyster is
pan fried in clarified butter. A salad of baby mustard greens dressed in a neutral
vinaigrette seasoned with toasted clove. A dust of toasted mustard seeds
garnishes the dish. The essence of a po’boy is captured in this dish. The
breading, the spice, the creamy decadent sauce, and the refreshing pungent greens.
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Crab with harissa, smoked garlic froth, cumin, fish sauce, scallions and quail egg
The garlic is first blanched three times in milk, before it is smoked with sweet
spices and herbs. The garlic is then cooked down with skim milk and toasted
pureed almonds. The base is strained several times to remove any grainy nature
from the almonds. The crab fondue is warmed with a base of melted minced
onions, fish sauce, toasted cumin and pickled scallion bottoms. The harrissa is
folded into a tuile batter which is topped with slice almonds and baked off to add
a crisp element to the dish. The butter warmed quail egg sits in a mound of the
crabmeat while the harissa tuile tops the dish. The garlic froth surrounds the crab
fondue, and and green onion chiffonade is sprinkled on top. Furthermore, garlic
Parisians which were blanched in salted thyme flavored milk hide beneath the
wisps of garlic froth. When you normally think of harissa and garlic you think of
intense overpowering flavors. Here their treatment allows them to support and
flavor the main character crab.
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Butter and black pepper crab fondue A black pepper cracker is the element which
allows the dish to shine. The cracker is salty and intensely peppery as well. A
bite of the crab fondue is necessary to pull the flavors into perspective. Thus the
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dish gets all its black pepper from the cracker while the crab itself is enhanced
with crystal hot sauce, more smokey than hot. Bacon brunoise and pickled celery
are folded into the crabmeat. They add richness, salt, and a poignant clarity which
allows the crab meat to shine. A seaweed salad finished with celery leaves
accompanies the dish. The seaweed picks up notes from the sea while the celery
helps refresh the several elements of heat present in the dish.
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Gratin crab cake The Palm is where I ate this style of crab cake first and have
been a proponent ever since. The crabmeat is bound with a ginger flavored aioli.
The crabmeat is balance with lime juice and rice wine vinegar. The cakes are
formed into small domes, and are broiled to order such that the aioli is the glacage.
Toasted ground sesame seeds, lime zest and Aleppo pepper garnish the plate.
That is it, for the dish is about the rich decadent carmalized and just warmed
through crabmeat.
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Lightly salt sea urchin to concentrate flavor(rinse urchin in salted water) The sea
urchin are cleaned in perforated pans so the silt and debris rinses out but the
urchin remains in pan, firming slightly because of the presence of the salt. After
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which, the urchin is transferred to a pan lined with towels so that excess moisture
is pulled away from the urchin.
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Shirred egg in sea urchin shell with sea urchin and truffle fondue A silky chicken
egg along with salted butter, truffle slices, sea urchin tongues, soy sauce and crème
fraiche are added to the urchin shell and broiled. The top is seasoned with a pinch
of salt. When the egg white just sets, capturing the other ingredients like a mosaic,
it is removed from the oven and allowed to rest. It is placed on a bed of warm
rock salt and brought to the table. A silver sauce boat is also brought to the table
containing an emulsion of lobster stock, sea urchin butter, crystal, and thickened
with minced truffles, chives and more sea urchin tongues. This fondue is then
spooned over the top of the shirred egg. Toasted country bread and butter with
fleur de sel accompanies the dish. This dish is appealing because the warming of
the urchin as well as the inclusion of the truffles takes the edge off the urchin
while still keeping it at the forefront of the dish. Similarly, the shirred egg and the
salted butter with toast capture two traditional yet simple ways to eat sea urchin.
Here we have the best of all worlds.
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Make thin duck egg ommelette and chiffonade as garnish with oysters and caviar
cream or sauce with a black truffle fondue. The duck egg, or more appropriately
its yolk is cooked on a sil pat in the styly of Pedro Subijana’s flourless
pappardelle. The oyster is poached in an oyster liquor and crème fraiche sauce
which is then finished with caviar and spooned over the dish. Here we have a
delicate rich pasta like garnish which absorbs the caviar cream. The oyster is eaten
entangled in two types of egg adding salinity and highlighting its briny nature.
The duck egg yolk “pasta” also adds texture to an otherwise slippery ingredient.
Thus one must let the flavors be absorbed by the palate rather than just letting
them slide down the back of one’s throat. Thus preparation of ingredients
certainly affects taste.
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Brulee of torro served with edamame glazed in soy, wasabi, jalapeno, lime, butter
and dashi The toro pave is incised down the middle and stuffed with minced
edamame tossed with salt and olive oil. Therefore, the fat from the bruleed toro
will mix with the edamame and season it as it caramelizes and adds flavor to the
fish. The fish also sets on a puree of edamame seasoned with cilantro, lime and
wasabi. Finally, a ragu of edamame glazed with soy, dashi, butter, lime and
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jalapeno runs along one side of the fish which sits on the puree. The ragu is
balanced with a touch of orange juice as well. Orange dust garnishes the plate, and
orange segment carpacio are draped on the fish.
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Two sashimi together: one hot one cold or one salty one sweet The hot and cold
in this dish come from both temperature and also ingredients used. Thus the hot
temperature dish is really cold because of its strong dependence of mint while the
cool dish is hot because of a chile based glaze. Similarly, the salt and sweet should
alter reality such that a caramel tuile is salty, and the vegetable garnish is coated in
demura sugar with salt included only to balance the dish. The first dish is a warm
avocado puree topped with lime and mint marinated sweet maine shrimp topped
with a salty caramel. The second dish is fluke carpacio topped with glucose
brushed and baked jalapeno chips and seasoned with fleur de sel and togarishis and
accompanied by sugar and salt coated edamame beans. The two dishes served side
by side confuse the palate and the eye for a moment, but as the dishes are finished
a calm comes over the palate as the flavors and tastes are realized and the initial
deception is comprehended.
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Baked eggs in shells topped with sea urchin or snails The gently baked egg
initially seasoned with salt and tobasco crème fraiche is added to the shell along
with a nob of butter. When the egg is just set, a red wine, and bacon based snail
fondue is added to the egg accompanied by a wafer thin pressed sandwich of
butter, bacon and bread. Brunoise and chives finish the fondue. This same garnish
accompanies the sea urchin fondue which is vermouth and shallot based and
enriched with a small spoonful of crème fraiche and brunoise. In either case the
simple egg acts as a canvas to present the flavors of the intense fondue. The
accompanmying pressed sandwich adds smoky and buttery undertones as well as
providing a medium for which the flavors can mix and be enjoyed.
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Fondue of sweet maine shrimp, sea urchin and truffle over egg cooked in an egg
cup topped with toast round brushed with seasoned butter and garnish(works
with caviar sauce) and try topping shell with parmesan tuile with straight truffle
fondue The base for the fondue is a lobster stock enriched with the shells and
heads from the maine shrimp, soy sauce and a piece of jalapeno and lime and
lemon zest. The fondue is then mounted with butter and crème fraiche, and
thickened with minced truffles. The shrimp and the sea urchin tongues are then
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added to the fondue and warmed through. This fondue is spooned over an egg
baked in an egg cup, and then topped with a toast round seasoned with fleur de sel
and brushed with truffle butter and topped with an urchin tongue and one raw
Maine shrimp. The garnish on top allows a quick look of what is in the egg cup.
Secondly, the diner has an opportunity to eat the seafood in a raw state and thus
have two different textures and temperature variations of the same ingredients.
Finally, the crouton as it breaks into the egg cup adds texture as well as a canvas
for the flavors in the egg cup. There are no tricks to the dish, it’s about quality
ingredients and technical precision.
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Sea urchin topped with Yukon gold potato mousse The sea urchin is marinated in
a lime and shallot vinaigrette, with soy and peppery olive oil. It is topped with a
potato foam and seasoned with togarishi and lime zest. The limes clear flavor cuts
through the potato and prepares the palate for the marinated sea urchin. The
potato foam is made with crème fraiche, fingerling potatoes, butter, cream and
tobasco. These rich aerated potaoes envelop the tongue and allow the briny flavor
of the urchin to be appreciated. The key to this dish is the lime which allows the
other elements of the dish to act independently and thus unite harmoniously.
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Softshell crab with bacon crusted eggs The soft shell crab is deep fried and
seasoned with salt and pepper. The eggs are previously poached to set them.
Then they are brushed with mustard and topped with mince two thirds cooked
bacon. The egg is then warmed in the oven as the bacon bastes the egg and
continues to crisp. When the egg is warmed through, it is set on a tomato salsa tar
tar. The tomatoes are oven concentrated and seasoned with lime, jalapeno,
cilantro and red onion. The crab halves stand on either side of the egg and salsa.
Finally, a small herb salad flavored with a pickled jalapeno vinaigrette tops the
egg. The dish comes together when the egg is broken and the flavors on the plate
combine to make a decadent balanced sauce and salad for the crab.
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Nantucket bay scallops with brandade broth and caviar The brandade broth, its
silky balanced flavor is the pivotal point in this dish. Fingerling potaoes are
cooked with salt cod and herbs in water. No actual salt is added to the water for
the salt cod proviedes enough flavor. Seocndly, the cream and milk mixture used
to make the puree is infused with tarragon, fennel, leeks, roast garlic and more salt
cod, and then it is strained. The potatoes are then mashed and butter and olive oil
are folded into them, and finally the fat emulsion is thinned out with infused
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cream. The potato puree is then strained again through a chinoix and adjusted
with tobasco. The puree, the brandade broth, can be adjusted with the salt cod
infused cream. The Nantucket bay scallops are sautéed in olive oil and butte, and
are first seasoned with salt cod salt. Once the scallops caramelize, they are tossed
once and removed from the pan. The pan is deglazed with vermouth and mounted
with beurre monte which is then used to warm potato dice, leek rings and blanched
garlic Parisians which is then poured over the scallops. The scallops and its ragu
are tossed with chives and tarragon and are arranged in a bowl and the the
brandade broth is poured around the scallops. A quenelle of caviar tops the
scallops. Peppery olive oil is drizzled on the broth, and a small nest of toasted
mustard spiced potato chips accompany the dish.
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Oysters with warm ponzu vinaigrette The oyster is just warmed in the ponzu
vinaigrette. Minced scallions and a confit of citrus thicken the vinaigrette, so it
resembles a salsa and has more substance. (The history of ponzu and its classic
uses need to be examined)
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White asparagus gratin The white asparagus is first braised in white asparagus
broth flavored with lemon and lemon scented herbs as well as lemongrass. The
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broth is balanced with salt and sugar to highlight the sweet characteristics of the
vegetable which in turn will tame some of the inherent bitterness. The asparagus
is cooked till tender and then cooled in its cooking liquid. The asparagus is then
trimmed and drained, and a puree is made with the asparagus trimmings. This
puree is then folded into a lemon scented aioli. The aioli also has a fair amount of
Franks hot sauce which enlivens the flavors in the glacage and the entire dish.
This puree is then spooned over the asparagus and then the dish is broiled. The
asparagus topping caramelizes and the gratin is finished. Miniature croutons
cooked in lemon oil add a final note of texture to the dish. Lemon zest and a
chiffonade of lemon balm add a final note of lemon to the dish. The creamy
caramelized topping adds smooth richness to the tender asparagus.
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Bone marrow with fish roe: caviar, bottarga, spicy cod roe, tobiko The bone
marro is soaked to remove blood and then put through a traditional breading
procedure. The variety of fish roe will alter the final garnishes for the marrow due
to point of origin of the varying roes. The key is that the roe’s add texture and
and marine umami to the fatty, crunchy and smooth marrow. With the caviar, a
creamed beet tar tar will act as a neutral and semi sweet earthy foil. The bottarga
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can be accompanied by pickled melon and baby arugala, and the spicy cod roe will
benefit from marinated daikon radish and radish spouts. As for the tobiko, its
crunchyness is best accentuated through a creamy neutral product like avocado
mousse.
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Crabmeat and nastutiam leaves with sweet ciciely or fennel pollen beurre fondue
The crab is warmed in a toasted fennel pollen and chartreuse emulsion. A light
crab and lemongass and chile emulsion surrounds the fondue. Lightly marinated
nasturtium leaves crown the crab meat, and flecks of sweet cicely float in the
broth. A sechwaan pepper tuile garnishes the plate. The tuile is made from
anolive oil based dough which needs to rest overnight. The dough is rolled till near
translucent so the tuile is lacy and crackling in texture. The dish is garnished with
toasted rice, salt, lemongrass, salt and chile dust.
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Nantucket bay scallops and foie gras cubes( or cromequis) with yuzu, water
chestnuts and ginger served in sugar bowl with accompanying cappuccino The
ragu is the thinly sliced water chestnuts marinated with soy ginger and yuzu juice
and zest tossed with seared Nantucket bay scallops. The ragu is enlivened with
green onion chiffonade and shiso. The ragu is topped with an emulsion of
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mushroom and bonito broth enriched with seseame oil and crème fraiche. The dish
resembles a cappuccino, and is accompanied by foie gras cromesquis served in a
sugar bowl seasoned with salt and toasted sesame seeds. The top of the
cappuccino is sprinkled with ground ginger and black pepper mixed.
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Oysters with oyster mushroom and salsify gratin The oyster mushrooms are
whole roasted in the oven so that a deep and uniform caramelization takes place.
The oysters are trimmed, rinsed and the trimmings ore covered with crème fraiche
and brought to a simmer. The cream is then skimmed, strained and reserved. The
salsify is braised with aromatics and pancetta to add a background meatiness to
this subtle palate. Half of the salisify is cooled in the liquid and the rest is cooked
covered with milk flavored with lemon zest and grass. The salsify is then pureed
and finished with tobasco, lemon juice, butter and the oyster infused crème
fraiche. The mixture is then strained and cooled. The remaining salsify is cut into
batons and slowly roasted in olive oil and butter being basted with lemon thyme.
Small pancetta lardoons are also cooked separately. The oysters are arranged in a
gratin dish with the pancetta and the mushrooms. The salsify puree is combined
with a liason of egg yolks and whipped cream and spooned over the dish. Finally,
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the roasted salsify batons are arranged like lattice work on the dish and the dish is
placed in the broiler. This dish can be served as a small course also in the shell of
the oyster if the number of gratin dishes are limited.
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Casserole of hearts of palm, black truffle and Yukon gold potatoes The dish
resembles the traditional bone marrow gratinee. The hearts of palm are first
slowly braised and cooled in their braising liquid to retain tenderness and allow the
hearts of palm to absorb flavor. The hearts are then split in half, and the insides
are diced. Similarly, the potatoes are diced and cooked till tender in a broth of
thyme and garlic. The diced potatoes and hearts of palm are warmed in a dark
chicken bouillon finished with crème fraiche. Once these two are warmed, black
truffle is added to the mix, and the farce is placed in the half of a heart of palm.
The palm is then placed in a pan with some of its initial braising liquid and it is
topped with and herb and butter crumb. The dish is placed in a salamander till the
crust browns and the heart is warmed. The heart is then dried and placed on a
plate garnished with a roasting jus finished with mustard and a touch of truffle oil.
A sprig of fresh verbena garnishes the plate, slightly resembling the palm leaf as
well as adding floral clarity to the dish.
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Bee bollen with: Nantucket bay scallops, foie gras, duck, sea scallops, black cod
The bee pollen is folded into either a caramel or a gastrique to accompany these
ingredients. The bollen adds sweetness as well as a firm floral undertone to the
dish it is included. Similarly, the pollen can work in conjunction with or in lieu of
honey in these dishes.
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Sweet gulf shrimp with tomato, ginger, lime gastrique soft polenta and green olives
The shrimp should be skewered to keep them straight before being brushed with
olive oil and seasoned with garum masala and being broiled. The tomatoes are
cooked down to a fondue in a gastrique flavored with ginger, jalapeno and
cardamom. The lime is added near the end so it does not get bitter, and further
stays fresh on the palate. The soft polenta is baked in the oven to provide
universal slow heat and prevent the need for constant stirring. The polenta is
made with chicken stock and is finished with butter, olive oil and minced green
olives. An intense shrimp jus is made from the heads and shells of the shrimp.
This jus is reduced to a glace and stripes the plate. The shrimp jus is made with
ginger, lemongrass, jalapeno and soy sauce to accent the aromatic flavors in the
fondue and on the shrimp. The dish is composed by placing the olive polenta
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down and topping it with three shrimp aligned horizontally. A line of the shrimp
jus runs vertically on the plate and a quenelle of the tomato fondue tops the
shrimp. Toasted garum masala garnishes the plate, and a mince of lime pickle is
scattered on the shrimp.
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Artichokes and surf clams Slicing the ingredients paper thin is the key to this
dish. The sweet earthiness of the artichokes balances the firm brininess of the surf
clams. The artichokes are braised first and the clams are lightly steamed. When
both are chilled, let them cool in their individual cooking liquids, they are thinly
sliced and arranged in fallen domino pattern. In this form they are lightly
marinated with lemon, olive oil, black pepper and fleur de sel. The remaining clam
broth is then strained and reduced with crème fraiche to make a decadent clam
emulsion. The same is done with the artichoke broth. The piles of artichoke and
clam are lightly steamed in a herb filled bamboo steamer. The separate focused
emulsions are poured into demitasse cups. The dish itself is garnished with green
onion and fennel. The dish is then brought to the table with the accompanying
emulsions. The diner is encouraged to sip the broths and eat the clams and
artichokes as well as dip them into the emulsions to add more flavor or to compare
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and contrast flavors. The artichokes and their broth should possess the heat of
the toasted chile flakes used in the braising process. If not pour hot chile oil over
the pile of artichokes and clams.
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Coat shellfish(lobster, spot prawns, langostines, sweet maine shrimp) in flavored
oil after roasting and basting with butter: lemon oil, truffle oil, spice oil, onion oil,
basil oil, lovage oil, celery leaf oil This is both technique and driving principle. It
needs to be explained on the pages about fats and oils. Flavored oils and fats are
not just about garnishing plates, but also about imparting background flavors
during the cooking process so that ingredients and dishes have a more complete
feel.
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Lobster medallion with sauterne and curry sabayon with orange gratinee The
medallion of lobster is sliced from the tail of a spiny lobster. It is warmed in a
beurre monte flavored with an infusion of roasted and pickeld scotch bonnet
chiles. The medallion is tops a salad of pickled green mango, fennel, red onion and
orange confit. The salad is finished with chives and minced fennel fronds. An
emulsion of lobster stock seasoned with curry powder and finished with sauternes
surrounds the medallion. Finally, a dollop of burnt orange sabayon tops the
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lobster which is quickly caramelized. The burnt orange sabayon will pick up the
flavors of the sauternes in the emulsion as well as tie into the lobster. Futhermore,
the heat from the lobster poaching liquid will be tamed by the salad and
compliment the curry. In using the carribean or southern lobster in this dish, the
flavors are more easily associated due to proximity.
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Rosemary flowers to garnish snail dishes The essence of the rosemary is focused
in the flower. Traditionally, snails are purged on rosemary, so to garnish them
with just the flower or its pollen is both appropriate and wanted. The dishes
which use snails will vary slightly, but the accent of the fennel flowers will be
understood and appreciated, for snails today do not seem to possess the same
rosemary undertones as their predecessors.
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110 to 115 degree fat for poaching: toro in duck fat, sirloin in kidney fat, lamb loin
or duck breast in duck fat The varying fats used as cooking mediums allows for
the slow temperate cooking of meats and fish to retain moisture and succulence.
Here technique in the cooking style is important as well as understanding of the
fats used for cooking depending on the meat or fish being cooked. The low
temperature allows the meat and fish to be cooked with out the albumen
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coagulating. The product then tastes almost braised in that it is succulent and
melting on the mouth.
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Zucchini fondue with lemon and clams The zucchini is diced and lightly salted
before it is roasted. The salting allows the zucchini to firm its texture and thus not
become mushy. The clams are cooked in a broth of lemongrass, lemon zest,
chicken stock, jalapeno and white miripoix. The clams are remove from their
shells, and reserved in some of the cooking liquid. The rest of the clam broth is
pureed with blanched zucchini (the green part only) chlorophyll and basil oil. The
roasted zucchini is warmed with the clams and lemon segment confit in a bit of the
clam broth and butter. This ragu is seasoned with lemon zest and basil. This
fondue is placed in a bowl and topped with the zucchini and clam emulsion. The
dish is accompanied with warm zucchini fritters. The fritters are made with grated
zucchini, crème fraiche, butter and lemon thyme. The outside of the fritters are
coated in wondra flour to provide a light crust. Again as with the earlier
prepartion of zuchinni it is first salted to remove moisture and intensify flavor.
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Axoa—stew of minced veal including espellette peppers(apply to crayfish and
lobster) The stew is then applied or married with crayfish and lobster as a flavor
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base. The minced veal can be braised veal knuckle, and the espellette pepper adds
both sweetness and heat two desirable flavors for the shellfish.
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Spiced pumpkin and apple broth with foie gras ravioli, apple compote, Nantucket
bay scallops and curry oil The pumpkin is first roasted en papillote with granny
smith apples for acidity, onions, bannana and toasted garam masala. The
pumpkin is then cooked briefly with apple cider and the base is pureed into a
silken broth consistency. The apple compote consists of ginger, jalapeno, red
onion, ver jus, champagne vinegar, sugar and diced pumpkin. The compote is
infused with a spiced sachet. The sachet contains cinnamon, cumin, star anise,
fennel, coriander, nutmeg, cayenne and bay leaf. The foie gras ravioli is made with
foie gras mousse made from the trimmings and scrapings of making foie gras
torchone. The Nantucket scallops are pan roasted and basted with lime pickle,
lime juice and curry oil. The scallops and the ravioli are arranged in the bowl, and
the spiced pumpkin bouillon is poured tableside. The ravioli should be garnished
with fleur de sel and Aleppo pepper to finish the flavors of the dish.
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Chickpea pancakes with sweet maine shrimp The pancakes are made with
chickpea flour seasoned with huumus to add the smooth silky consistency to the
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batter. The chickpeas are marinated with lemon, toasted cumin and coriander,
sumac, brunoise, jalapeno and olive oil, finished with green onion, coriander and
mint. The Maine shrimp are quickly sautéed in oil perfumed with mustard seeds
and garlic. When the shrimp are removed from the pan it is deglazed with lime
juice, chicken stock and a touch of butter which is then poured over the shrimp.
A sauce of cucumber cream garnishes the plate. The cucumber cream is made by
pureeing blanched cucumber skins with drained yogurt, roasted garlic and lemon
oil. A whipped cilantro and mint butter top the pancakes followed by the
shrimp, with the marinated chickpeas off to the side ringed by cilantro oil and
topped with a crustacean emulsion. The dish is garnished with baby cilantro and
mint.
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Creamed celery leaves with crab meat gratin The celery leaves are blanched and
then roughly chopped. They are seasoned with celery salt, and are bound with
crème fraiche reduced down with celery hearts. The crab meat is bound with an
aioli based on the juice from pickled celery hearts and root and crab mustard. The
hearts and root are pickeled with champagne vinegar, sugar, celery salt, onion,
mustard seeds and cloves. The crab meat bruleed under the broiler and is then set
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on the creamed celery leaves and garnished with the batons of pickled celery and
the diced celery root. Furthermore the creamed celery is ringed by celery leaf oil.
The varying treatments of the relatively unused or normally non featured elements
of celery in conjunction with the popular crab meat make this dish intriguing to
me.
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Forelle pears with Nantucket bay scallops and sweetbreads The pear has an
innate buttery richness which compliments the sweet explosive caramelized
scallops. However, to accent the scallop the pears are braised in an acidic and
spiced broth so their natural tendencies still shine but to not overwhelm the
scallops. The pears are braised with ginger, jalapeno, rice vinegar, clove, allspice,
water, thyme, bay leaf and cumin. Once the pears are braised and cooled they are
sliced into wedges approximately twelve per pear. These wedges are then warmed
in the oven with an emulsion of the braising liquid and butter. This liquid is light
and allows the pears to warm and absorb a small amount of fat. A portion of the
braising liquid is redeuced to a glaze to provide a focused elemental taste on the
plate. The scallops are roasted, and the pan is deglazed with chicken jus to
provide a pan sauce for the plate. Brunoise is folded into the strained sauce as are
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chives. The warmed pear slices are arranged on top of the pool of scallop sauce.
The scallops are placed between the pears, and a julienne of lime pickle tops the
pears and scallops. The pears are also garnished with fleur de sel and black
pepper. Finally, a forelle pear chip made from pears brushed with glucose and
lemon finishes the dish. The line of reduced braising liquid swings around the
bottom third of the plate.
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Potato salad with poached quail egg, caviar and chervil sauce The potatoes are
warmed in a chicken and crème fraiche emulsion piqued by the essence of Dijon
mustard. The quail egg is warmed in beurre monte which is thickened with minced
chervil, flamed chartreuse and a few drops of lemon to accentuate the flavor. The
egg is sits in a nest of caviar which is formed in the center of the warmed potato
salad. The egg and potatoes are drizzled with the quick chervil sauce, and pluches
of chervil garnish the dish. Fresh black pepper and red onion dust garnish the
plate, while several grains of sel gris are placed on the quail egg to make the first
bite of egg explode with flavor.
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Proscutto crusted Nantucket bay scallops or other seafood crusted with cured
meats While more often than not it is considered Italian blasphemy to cook
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proscutto, its crispy nuttiness which develops in this tuile like crust provides
perfect balance to the Nantucket bay scallop. The scallops are dried of any excess
moisteure, and one side is dusted with wondra and then dipped in egg and finally
into a thin arrangement of prosciutto chiffonade. The proscuitto sticks to the
scallop, and the thin arms extend beyond the scallop like a spiderweb. The
scallops are then sautéed in grapeseed oil at a medium high heat so the proscutto
caramelizes but does not burn. When the prosciutto is crisp the scallops are
turned, and kissed on the other side for a moment. The pan is then wiped of its
oil and deglazed with a chicken jus and mounted with butter. The sauce is strained
and sliced chives are folded in. Arugala is wilted quickly with a touch of crushed
red pepper in olive oil and finished with a few drops of lemon juice. The arugala
is drained and is arranged as a nest on top of the scallop pan sauce. The scallops
are set in the nest with the tuiles facing at angles. Finally, a blanched garlic froth
accents the plate finished with fresh black pepper, and a few drops of olive oil.
One drop of aged balsamic vinegar is added to the plate tableside so that it does
not bleed into the dish as it travels to the table. The delicacy of this dish from the
lace like tuiles to the garlic froth and aged balsamic, this dish is exciting to both
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cook and eat. Its flavors are clean and based on Italian simplicity, but the dish is
also delicate and refined, more Japanese than French.
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Smoked eel with béarnaise reduction and mousseline: apple balsamic, diced apple,
tarragon, red onion served with curly cress or chickweed salad The eel is cleaned
and hot smoked in house with apple wood. From the beginning the undertones of
apple should be present. While apple is not the main ingredient it is the element
which ties or strings the dish together. Next, a béarnaise reduction is made using
apple balsamic, slowly reduced not quite to a syrup. To this, an apple
chutney(red onion, jalapeno, ginger, champagne vinegar, thyme and tarragon) and
minced tarragon are folded in. The eel is warmed in the broiler underneath the veil
of a traditional hollandaise stabilized by whipped cream. Thus the béarnaise sauce
is created when the diner eats the reduction with the eel and bruleed hollandaise.
The dish is assembled with a ring of tarragon oil filled in with the béarnaise
reduction and topped with the eel. In a diaganol line off the bottom of the eel is a
small chickweed salad dressed with a neutral vinaigrette to accent the flavor of the
chickweed and to cut through the richness of the dish. Apple with its cleansing
frutiness adds both texture and clarity to the different elements of the dish. While
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the chickweed does not have any actual apple, its crisp acidity mimics that of a
tart apple rounding out the underlying apple theme.
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Oysters with braised escarole, onions and bacon The escarole is braised in an
aromatic broth of chicken stock with roasted miripoix and caramelized bacon. The
escarole is then cooled and trimmed, and wrapped around trimmed oysters. The
oyster packets are glazed with a reduction of the strained braising liquid. Another
portion of the braising liquid is reduced with crème fraiche and emulsified with
butter to coat the just warmed oysters. The oyster is topped with a thin bacon
chip, and brunoise jalapeno is floated in the escarole emulsion. The escarole
emulsion is enriched with the liquour and trimmings of the oysters to instill a
briny marine undertone to the emulsion.
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Glaze braised then pressed and steamed octopus terrine with paprika sabayon and
sherry vinegar syrup The octopus terrine is made by braising the octoupus in
white wine, orange, lime and meyer lemons to retain its color and not darken it
with red wine. Aromatics are added to the braising liquid as well as bacon for a
smoky meatiness. When the octopus is tender, its tentacles are arranged in a
terrnine mold and it is pressed overnight to allow its natural gelatin to set. The
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terrine is then sliced and warmed in a steamer filled with citrus and herbs like
lovage and oregano. These medicinal herbs will perfume the octopus and cut
through its richness. The terrined is then quickly glazed with a smoked paprika
hollandaise, and the plate is garnished with a sherry and sherry vinegar syrup to
cut through the dish. A baby celery and herb salad dressed with a meyer lemon
and red onion vinaigrette accompanies the terrine to balance the flavors. A pile of
olive oil toasted almonds seasoned with salt, orange dust and Aleppo pepper sits
to the side of the terrine for the diner to eat in conjunction with the dish and add
another element of texture and enhance the citric undertones.
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Periwinkles and shrimp with radishes The cooking technique and an examination
of the use of periwinkles needs to be examined. The shrimp are pan roasted, and
then the plate is garnished with a strip of the concentrated jus from the shells and
the shrimps head. The firm periwinkles are made into a hash with a brunoise of
ham, potato and miripix and bound with crème fraiche and lemon zest. The hash
is finished with chives and a dash of tobasco. The added acidity and heat of the
tobasco will highlight the flavors of the the periwinkles and enrich the supporting
flavors of the hash. The dish is garnished with and herb and citrus salad the
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flavors which mirror the aromatics used in cooking the periwinkles.(contemplate
the addition of Indian or southeast asian salad, chutnies or spices to bring the
flavors of this unfinished dish home)
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Roasted quail with baby artichoke hearts and guanciale or truffle sabayon The
quail is first cured overnight in salt with onions, herbs and garlic. The following
day the quail is confited. When the quail is cool the remaining bones are removed
and the the quail is split and arranged into two packages. These packages are then
pressed overnight. The baby artichokes are braised first and then drained, sliced in
half and pan roasted with slices of guancile. The fat is drained and a spoonful of
brunoise is folded into the mixture to just warm. Thyme, chives, minced truffle
and lemon zest are also folded in. The quail pave is pan roasted so the skin is
crisp and the meat is tender. The ragu is arranged on the plate on top of a light
quail jus. The ragu is arranged on top followed by the quail. A small salad of raw
artichoke and truffle batons tops the quail. The truffle sabayon is spooned over
the top left corner of the quail ideally at the table.
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Roasted Nantucket bay scallops with lobster sauternes froth The caramelized bay
scallops explode with sweet richness while the asian based lobster stock reduced
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with crème fraiche and infused with sauternes adds a sweet oceanic burnt orange
piquancy to the dish. The froth’s intensity of flavor and its lightness allows the
scallops to be highlighted while the froth almost but does not steal the show. The
lobster stock is made with jalapeno, ginger, lemongrass, red onion, soy sauce and
the finished base is steeped with three citrus zests and crushed pink peppercorns.
A tuile made with espellette pepper garnishes the dish. The tuile is a play off the
oyster cracker and tobasco sauce usually added to most seafood soups and stews.
Here the salty and spicy flavors are in one bite ane the tuile is eaten separately to
add crunch to certain bites but not as a filler as were the old oyster crackers.
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Braised and pressed then crispy skin pig feet with clam ragu or fried with clams
(point of reference--soft shell clams are the same as frying clams) The pigs feet
are braised, then boned and pressed in a battara sushi mold. The pigs feet are then
floured, egged and crumbed and deepfried while the clams are dredged in an egg,
flour and oil paste and then crumbed. Both egg mixtures contain mustard to add
background heat to the dish. The pork and clams are served with a tartar sauce
made with lemon confit, cornichons, capers and seasoned with cilantro and chiles.
The dish takes on the elements of the Cuban dish of pork and clams in a simple
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fried dish. Pickled jalapeno rings and pickled red onions are woven into the dish
as well.
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Mussels with saffron, basil, tomato, chanterelles, zucchini and zuchinni blossom
The flavors are delicate and floral. The mussels are steamed open with white
miripoix, garlic, olive oil and white wine. A sachet of tarragon, parsley, chervil
stems, fresh bay leaf and thyme is used as well. The mussels are removed from
their shells and marinated with olive oil, black pepper, fleur de sel and crystal hot
sauce. The mussel liquor is strained and reduced with crème fraiche and zucchini
blossoms. When the the broth is almost at consistency it is strained and toasted
saffron is added to bloom in the broth. The emulsion is chilled and the other
ingredients are prepared. The tomatoes are blanched, peeled, seeded and slow
roasted as petals to concentrate their flavor. The baby zucchini is sliced, salted
and rinsed to preserve texture and intensify flavor. The chanterelles are roasted
and basted with butter and thyme and then drained and reserved. The zucchini
blossoms are divided with half being cut into julienne and half opened like sails.
The dish is assembled by roasting the zucchini in olive oil and then adding
brunoised red onions, followed by the chanterelles. The tomates are brushed with
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olive oil and placed in the oven to warm through. The zuchinni blossom is dipped
in cornstarch and fried. The saffron mussel emulsion is warmed separately, and
when it is hot the mussels are added to warm through. The ragu is drained and
tossed with chives while the mussel emulsion is strained and mounted with butter.
The mussels and the ragu are arranged in the center of the bowl while the saffron
broth is poured around the outside. The tomato petals garnish the ragu and the
zuchinni blossom crowns the dish topped with black pepper. Several drops of
chile infused oil are drizzled into the saffron broth to add points of piquancy
through the dish.
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Softshell crabs with artichoke ragu: mint oil, sel gris and bayonne ham The
artichokes are braised, and sliced into quarters once they have marinated in the
braising liquid. The broken artichokes and the leaves which have fallen off the
artichokes are pureed into the reduced braising liquid to create an artichoke sauce.
The quartered baby artichokes are pan roasted in olive oil with a brunoise of
bayonne ham and then drained and tossed with fleur de sel, black pepper, lemon
zest and mint chiffonade. The soft shell crab is brushed with a mint and pine nut
pesto in its gill area before being sautéed. The artichoke sauce is then framed with
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mint oil(infused with one kaffir lime leaf to add a more floral note to the mint) and
the artichoke ragu is placed on the sauce. The crab sits on this nest and a thin slice
of bayonne ham sits on top of the crab. Several baby mint leaves and black
pepper garnish the plate.
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Abalone or frog legs with: kalamata olives, capers, fennel and tomato The abalone
is tenderized and scored and given a light brioche breading. It is then pan fried and
sliced served on a bed of marinated olives, capers, raw fennel, and oven
concentrated baby tomatoes. The ragu is marinated in olive oil and meyer lemon
juice with a hint of roasted garlic. The ragu is finished with chives, parsley and
lemon zest. The abalone sits on this ragu framed by a ring of basil oil. The
abalone after it is fried is seasoned with black pepper and caper, garlic and
anchovy dust instead of salt. Several baby basil leaves are scattered on the plate.
A twist of meyer lemon sits on top of the abalone for the diner to squeeze on the
dish. A finger bowl is served alongside the dish so the diner is able to rinse their
fingers after adding the fresh lemon to the dish.
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Softshell crab with Sicilian pistachios and white asparagus The softshell crab is
sautéed in olive oil and basted with whole garlic and lemongrass in the pan. The
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white asparagus is initially braised, then it is trimmed into three inch batons. The
end pieces are then cooked further with the strained braising liquid before being
pureed and mounted with lemon oil. The asparagus tips are roasted in olive oil
until golden brown at which point the pan is drained of almost all the fat and
Sicilian pistachios are added to toast and perfume the asparagus. The ragu is then
drained and seasoned lightly with fleur de sel. The dish is composed with the
asparagus batons and pistcios in the center of the plate. The crab rests on this raft
topped with a sprinkle of lemon thyme and candied lemon zest strands. The
asparagus puree is poured around the dish tableside finished with several drops of
pistachio oil. The crunchy softshell is accented by the toasty and crunchy
pistachios. The asparagus adds sweetness, bitterness and acidity to the dish.
Furthermore, the roasted asparagus ties the nuttiness of the pistachio and the
softshell to itself. The dish becomes unified.
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White asparagus relish(diced pickled white asparagus(infused with lemon
verbena), red onion, mascarpone, crème fraiche, lemon juice and zest, salt and
pepper, chives, nutmeg and mustard) serve with warm smoked salmon or fried
clams[can also make relish without dairy like hot dog relish] The key to the relish
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is the pickled white asparagus. The acidulated base with the infusion of lemon
verbena and the heat of pickled mustard seeds allows this condiment to be used in
a variety of forms. The intrigue to this particular condiment is that I have not
seen pickled asparagus, only canned and jarred, and this technique, the picklein,
makes sense to preserve the vegetables inherent and underlying flavors. The other
ingredients in the pickle are lemon zest, black and white pepper, lemon verbena,
champagne vinegar, pickled mustard seeds, sugar, water and bay leaf.
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Sardine filets layered with crabmeat, cooked in beurre monte and served with pea
broth The crab meat is flavored with mint, ginger, cayenne, lemon and bacon. It is
bound with crème fraiche so as to remain tightly bound when heated. The crab is
wrapped in blanched pea tendril leaves so that as a filling it does not leach into the
warminf liquid. Three small crab packets are arranged between two previously
marinated sardine filets. These napoleons are then warmed in beure monte
accented with meyer lemon. The sardines are topped with a topping of fried
shallots, crispy bacon and mint. A vibrant pea puree is poured around the
sardine. The sardine also sits on a bed of chiffonade blanched butter lettuce
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warmed in beurre monte. Here the garnish of petit pois has been reworked to
flavor, balance and frame the combination of the crabmeat and the sardine.
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Softshell crab with sumac, tomato, cilantro oil, bacon, red pepper brunoise The
softshell crab is in the place of sweet and sour crab. The bacon adds richness and
smokiness to the dish, however it is the interplay of the sumac, tomato, red
pepper and cilantro which make the dish work. The pepper is first roasted so it
has developed some meatiness and concentrated its sweetness. The smokiness
helps tie in the flavor of the bacon. The tomato is also previously concentrated, in
this case in the oven with garlic, oliv oil and thyme. Once it is cooled it is diced.
These two ingredients are then combined with the cilantro and fresh lime juice to
add fruity floral acidity. The bacon is broght into the dish through a bacon cake
made like a bread pudding but set in a roulade. This cake is then pan fried and
placed on a round of a cilantro, jalapeno and bacon aioli. The crab is then sautéed
and seasoned with sumac and salt. The crab is then placed on the cake and a
quenelle of the sweet and sour condiment tops the crab along with a slice of
pickled jalapeno and a cilantro pluche.
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•
Oyster in potato and green onion fondue(vichyssoise) The oyster is warmed in a
sauce of crème fraiche, beurre monte, oyster liquor and tobasco. The green
vichysoisse is made with creamy fingerling potatoes, melted leeks, cayenne, milk
and a bright green onion puree. The green onion puree is folded into a small
amount of the finished vischyisoise until a vibrant and balanced base is made. The
vischysoise is then finished with a nob of butter. The white parts from the green
onion are pickled with champagne vinegar, tarragon, thyme, mustard seeds, garlic,
jalapeno and ginger. These thinly sliced pickles sit underneath the just warmed
oyster. The dish is then arranged with the creamy white oyster in the center as a
bulls eye with the green vischysoise around it. A quenelle of caviar, and three
fingerling potato chips(seasoned with toasted mustard seed, salt and clove) are
served on the chilled top of the oyster, so the diner can add the cool caviar to the
warm dish and expeience first hand the flavors and textures taking place.
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Grilled clams with tarragon butter and minced radish crème fraiche The clams are
severed from their shell, and a whipped tarragon butter with black pepper, lemon
juice, melted shallots and tobasco is adde to the shell, followed by the clam,
pressed into the butter and the original clam liquor which is strained. The clams
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shell is put back on top to keep the heat in and the clam is placed on the grill. The
smokiness of the grill imparts its flavor on the clam as the tarragon butter slowly
bastes and cooks the clam. When the clam is just cooked, it is removed from the
grill. The clam is brought to the table and opened by the water with a fork and
spoon for the diner to witness the fresh smell. The waiter then spoons the clam
into the diners bowl which has only a quenelle of minced radish and crème fraiche
with three rectangular garlic planks eminating like a fan, and several tarragon leaves
to the right. The diner spreads the radish mixture on the crouton and tops it with
the grilled clam. The spicy radish and the tang of the crème fraiche cut throught
the buttery brininess of the clam. The garlic toast compliments the flavor of the
grilled clam while also adding texture to the dish.
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braised “escargot” with red wine and prosciutto The escargot is first cooked in
court bouillon, and allowed to cool in the liquid. The snails are then trimmed. The
snails are warmed in a veal based cooking liquid enriched with red wine and
rosemary. A brunoise of miripoix and prosciutto is added to the ragu once the
snails are hot throughout. The ragu is set in the bottom of a bowl and topped
with two foams, smoked garlic and parsley. The dish arrives at the table with the
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white and green in the bowl with no sign of the snails. The dish is served with a
prosciutto, rosemary, roast garlic and cayenne pepper stuffed palmier on the side
which is cooked pressed between to sheet pans. The parsley foam is made with
blanched parsley and mussel liquor enriched with crème fraiche for acidity and
body. The smoked garlic foam is made with blanched garlic which is then smoked
with herbs and pureed with olive oil, skim milk and olive oil toasted almonds. An
orange dust garnishes the garlic foam and black pepper garanishes the parsley.
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Crispy frog legs with shaved celery and buffalo sauce The frog legs are deep fried
and tossed in a sauce of reduced chicken jus, foie fat, butter, franks hot sauce,
matouks hot sauce and banyuls vinegar. Once the legs are glazed in the sauce,
they are dipped in sliced chives and set on a diced salad of pickled celery and
celery root remoulade. A broken vinaigrette of banyuls wine and vinegar and
celery oil accents the plate. Several crumbles of fourme d’ ambert line the bottom
of the plate, and crispy celery leaves seasoned with celery salt garnish the
frenched frog legs. The principle or inspiration for the dish is to focus and
intensify the flavors of buffalo wings, without all the mess. Secondly, the glaze
for the legs in conjunction with the celery salad is far superior to the traditional
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buffalo sauce. The dish sets a new benchmark for the buffalo wings such that the
gourmand or bar fly in all of us has a new standard to live up to.
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Charred calamari with papaya, sesame seeds and cilantro The calamari is first
cleaned, opened and then frozen such that it can be shaved into noodles. Then the
calamari is marinated with jalapeno, cilantro, soy, paprika, cumin, olive oil, sliced
garlic, and a drop of sesame oil.
The calamari is then sautéed in a cast iron pan
without oil except for the marinade which clings to it. The spices and herbs
caramelize and give depth to the calamri’s flavor in this flash cooking. The
calamari is then tossed in a bowl with toasted sesame seeds, sliced cilantro and
diced pickled green papaya. The calamari is seasoned with lime juice and fleur de
sel. The calamari is arranged in a tight coil in the middle of the plate, and a thai
flavored peanut butter froth is drizzled around the nest. The calamari is garnished
with baby basil, mint, cilantro and a few drops of chile oil in the peanut butter
emulsion.
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Ruby crescent potato “mousse” with: sarladaise potatoes/ black truffles/ caviar/
quail egg The potato mousse is made by thinning out silky mashed potatoes and
aerating them in an isi container. The mousse can then complement as well as hide
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surprises in bowls and cups. The rich crunchy truffled sarladaise potatoes
contrast the silky cloudlike pototoe mousse. In fact, the mousse acts as a vehicle
to carry the flavor of the sarledaise potatoes. The mousse has a similar effect on
the black truffle and ham hock fondue, the caviar and the poached quail egg. In
each case the mousse hides the focal ingredient so that the diner must search
amongst the clouds for its inevitable discovery. The mousse should never water
down or dilute the flavor of the focal ingredient rather it should sing its praises,
making the diner want and crave more.
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Cauliflower “mousse” with warm lobster ragout The cauliflower mousse is made
by cooking the cauliflower in cream and butter till completely tender and then
seasoning it with brown butter, lemon, crystal hot sauce. It is pureed until silky
smooth and then strained to remove any impuities. The mousse is aerated in an isi
canister and is used to cover a warm lobster ragu bound with a lobster emulsion,
celery leaves and pickled cauliflower florettes to pique the palate. The mousse is
crusted with the crumbs of lobster roe sable to add another aspect of lobster, and
another dimension texture. The cauliflower mousse is also very versatile and can
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be used with other ragus like caviar, morels in curry emulsion, truffle, lime pickle
glazed bay scallops.
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Celery root “mousse” with crabmeat stew and brown butter The celery root
mousse is made with the addition of melted onions, and it is seasoned with celery
salt, white pepper, crystal hot sauce, brown butter and lemon. It is also enriched
with butter. The celery root can stand up to bolder flavors such as a crab meat
ragu warmed in a crab bisque. Diced pickled celery and a celery salad on the side
help to define and refine this dish. The celery root mousse works well with black
truffle fondue, and would be interesting served over a ragu of whole spicy Korean
crabs.
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Kabocha squash “mousse” with prosciutto emulsion and fried sage crumbs The
kabocha squash mousse gets its identity through the addition of bananas, onion,
ginger, muscavado sugar, cinnaomon, clove, allspice, and jalapeno being cooked en
papillote and then added to the roasted kabocha squash. The mousse is finished
with crème fraiche, crystal hot sauce, lime juice and butter. It is thinned with
water so as not to take away from the flavor of the squash and its supporting
flavors. The prosciutto fondue is made by melting onions, shallots and roast garlic
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and then adding the cut up heal of prosciutto. This is then deglazed with white
wine, topped with chicken stock and a sachet of thyme and rosemary is added
along with several allspice berries and some crushed red pepper. Once the
ingredients are tender this base is pureed in a blender, mounted with butter
andbalanced with banyuls vinegar. The base is then strained, and to order, a
chiffonade of prosciutto is added along with a brunoise of melted onions and
jalapeno. The mousse is then topped with a crust of fried save ground with
toasted brioche, salt, cayenne and black pepper.
Soups and Custards
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Beef soup with bone marrow The soup gets its richness, delicacy, mouthfeel and
complexity through the several cooking cycles. The base for the soup is the
braising liquid from oxtail. The oxtail is braised in dark chicken stock enriched
with pork and veal feet, and roasted short rib bones. The addition of the feet adds
gelatin to the base of the soup. The braised consists of tamarind, fresh tomato,
miripoix, soy, jalapeno, ginger, thyme, parsley, bay leaf, allspice, cumin,
cinnamon, clove and lime pickle. Red wine and port are also used in the braise.
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The braising liquid is strained, and the oxtail is reserved. The braise is then
reduced, and then clarified with the addition of beef trimmings in the raft to add
more flavor. The clarified broth now has a compound flavor base that creates an
identiy of beef soup. The bone marrow is soaked to remove its blood, then dried
and pressed through a tammis. The marrow is then rolled out on plastic wrap and
stuffed with the oxtail meat. The oxtail meat is seasoned with sherry vinegar, soy
sauce, tobasco, thyme, chives and brunoise. The marrow is then rolled around the
meat, and left to firm in the freezer. The stuffed marrow is then floured, egged and
crumbed twice to prevent leaking of the marrow. These marrow fritters are then
fried and served alongside the beef soup. The soup is garnished with cilantro,
green onion, pickled green mango dice, and a jalapeno slice which all float in the
broth. The soup is served with a cloche so these aromatics are released in front of
the customer rather than in the kitchen.
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Twists on coffee drinks for desserts, soups or accompaniment to dishes:
espresso(intense focused flavor with background undertones), latte(one intense
soup lightened with another light and frothy base), cappuccino(intense topped
with lighter ethereal complimentary flavor) These three methods of enjoying
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coffee apply to the enjoyment and essence of the soup being prepared. For
instance, no one really wants to sip the equivalent of an espresso of truffle.
However, the same focused truffle essence will be smoothed and savored when
topped with salsify, potato, or celery root froth. Or, to be mixed or poured into a
neutral base like a seafood essence, topped with a light herbal froth. The
combination in the bowl or cup as well as the palate and nose provides for exciting
and stimulating dining. A bowl of soup is no longer dependent on being just to
hot or to cold.
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Soup: Persillade or Jerusalem artichoke with lobster and clam(razor) ragu The
persillade soup is based on lots of blanched parsley, vermouth, shallots,lemon
confit, blanched garlic, clam liquor, and crème fraiche for a finishing tang and body.
The Jerusalem artichoke soup is based on a rich lobster stock enriched not with
cream, but a puree of Jerusalem artichokes. The puree is made by cooking onions
and the artichokes in papillote with a thyme and parsley sachet, cayenne, butter
and olive oil. The papilllote is then pureed and mounted with brown butter and
lemon juice. A ragu of sliced razor clams, lobster knuckles, pickled Jerusalem
artichokes and chopped parsley is in the bottom of the soup bowl. The thicker
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lobster based soup is layered first, and the parsley soup is frothed with butter and
tops the Jerusalem artichoke soup.
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Potato gaufrettes with black truffle poca dots The potatoes are trimmed into the
shape of band-aids. They are then sliced paper thin and the slices are kept
together to ensure a more compatible seal when they are baked. Two sil pats are
brushed with clarified butter and the bottom one is salted. The potato slices are
laid out on the sil pat with their respective twin reserved off to the side of each
slice. Then half the potato slices are garnished with dots of sliced black truffle.
The twin potato is then placed on top, and the the other sil pat is placed to cover.
The sil pats are then placed on an inverted sheet pan or a bakers rack in a sheet
pan and then pressed in place with a French steel pan or several sheet pans. The
potatoes are baked at 350 degrees until golden. The pan should be turned in the
oven to allow for even uniform browning. The chips are then removed from the
sheet pan and allowed to cool on a rack, and then layered in a airtight container
with paper towls to absorb excess moisture. These are an excellent garnish to
multiple soups, but preferably custards for they are like a lozenge used for eating
and spreading the custard.
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•
Frog leg ragu over parsley custard The parsley custard is made with blanched
parsley, blanched garlic, eggs, cream, milk, lemon, and chlorophyll. The
chlorophyll helps retain the bright vibrant green in the custard as it cooks. The
custard is then topped with a ragu of braised frog legs, and topped with a roast
garlic tuile. The tuile is made with pureed garlic, lemon oil, flour, black pepper
and butter. The frog legs are braised in chicken stock infused with lemon zest,
oregano, capers, lemongrass, lemon thyme, white miripoix, jalapeno, white wine
and bacon. The frog legs are cooled in the braising liquid and then the meat is
picked and the liquid is strained. The braising liquid is then reduced down with
crème fraiche and more lemon aromatics to a light nape, for this will then be the
liquid used for warming the frog legs. The frog legs are warmed in the lemon and
frog scented cream with petite bacon lardons and brunoise. The ragu is finished
with chives, lemon zest and a chiffonade of parsley. The ragu is spooned into the
center of the parsley custard, and the tuile rests along the edge of the dish to be
eaten as a cracker with the custard or to dip and smear in the custard.
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Foie gras soup with quail eggs as dumplings The foie gras soup is made with a
foie gras butter made with sauternes a more delicate flavor than port or brandy.
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The foie is soaked overnight in milk and then it is pressed through a tammis to
remove the veins. The cleaned foie is then seasoned with sel rose, sugar and
kosher salt. The foie is then creamed with an equal amount of French butter until
it is smooth and homogenous and then the hot sauternes is poured over mixture.
The whip attachment is used to incorporate the wine into the fats. The mixture
looks scambled at first, but then as it cools the liquid is pulled into the fats, and a
whipped foie butter is formed. The butter is then allowed to cool, and while is
still pliable it is piped into small kisses and then frozen. The foie butter is then
umulsified into a double dark duck consome fortified with a chicken foot stock for
added mouth feel. The quail eggs are poached earlier and then warmed in beurre
monte and then placed in the bowl. The soup is frothed and balanced with
banyuls vinegar, cayenne pepper and then poured in the bowl. Duck prosciutto
tuiles garnish the top of the egg. The prosciutto is sliced thin and then baked in a
350 degree oven until crispy. The soup is garnished with chives.
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Evo toasted almond and garlic soup with: lobster, peeled grapes and champagne
grape gelée The champagne grapes are set in a gelée of champagne which is
balanced with salt, pepper, sugar and ver jus. The grapes set in the gelée resemble
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caviar, and sit in a mound on top of a slice of lobster tail. Several peeled and
halved green grapes sit in the bowl as well. These grapes are marinated in ver jus
infused with rosemary, salt, confit orange zest with its liquid and habanero chile
for its fruitiness. The soup base is made with melted onions, garlic which is
blanched thrice in milk, and blanched sliced almonds which were toasted from cold
in olive oil. These ingredients are then cooked together in spring water so that the
flavors stand out and are not masked by the flavors of stocks and broths. The
soup is then balanced with the ver jus from marinating the grapes which will tie in
the cleansing flavors of the grapes and champagne gelée which garnish the soup.
This soup is an interpretation or a play off white gazpacho with out the use of
bread as a thickener. The top of the soup is also garnished with lobster coral.
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Seafood bisque garnished with shrimp toast The seafood bisque begins with rich
lobster stock enriched with mussel liquor and cooked down with cream and crème
fraiche. Both stocks are seasoned with ginger, jalapeno, lemongrass, cilantro, soy
sauce, citrus zests and shallots. The underlying eastern flavors add spice and
depth to the bisque. A few drops of tamarind will add acidity and balance to the
soup as well. Furthermore the flavors tie into the garnish, the shrimp toast. The
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bread, brioche, is covered with a sweet maine shrimp mousse. The mousse is
flavored with cream cheese, crystal hot sauce, purreed sweet maine shrimp,
cilantro, green onion, melted shallots and ginger, ribbon whipped egg yolks.
Whole blanched shrimp are also folded into the mousse which is then spread on
the brioche and broiled. The brioche is toasted first to add structure to the shrimp
toast and allow the mixture to adhere and melt into the bread. The broiling will
allow the mousse to glacage and thus gain the richer flavors from the
caramelization of the shrimp and eggs. The dish is served like a cappuccino and
biscotti in that the soup is frothed and there is nothing in it. Rather the shrimp
toast is on the side to be eaten or dunked. The top froth of the soup is seasoned
with lobster coral and seven flavored togarishi. This dish warms both through its
flavors and familiarity.
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Petit pois soup: bacon froth, onions, peas and lettuce A duality of the flavors
takes place in this dish. A ragu of peas, bacon lardons, diced onions and lettuce
chiffonade is in the center of the bowl. The ragu is bound with beurre monte and
finished with chives and mint chiffonade. The soup base is made with melted
sweet onions and mint, and pureed with water, blanched lettuce leaves and peas.
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The soup is strained, and is finished with butter and sugar snap pea juice to add
freshness. The onions are cooked with the mint en papilloted with olive oil, salt,
pepper and a pinch of sugar to capture the entire essence of the onion and mint
and not allowing it to escape. Thinly sliced bacon brushed with glucose is baked
between sheets of parchment paper to form crispy bacon tuiles. The soup is
drizzled with mint infused peppery olive oil to add pockets of luxurious
mouthfeel.
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Potato caraway tuiles or crips The potatoes are thinly slice, and cut into rounds
with a cutter. The potatoes are brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with cracked
caraway, salt and cayenne. The potatoes are arranged on parchment paper and
topped with a second sheet. The potatoes are pressed between a rack on a sheet
pan and several sheet pans on top. The crisps are baked in a 350 degree oven until
browned then they are removed to a clean sheet of parchment till cool and then
stored in an air tight container. These crisps are and excellent accompaniment to
chilled oysters with sauerkraut, and diced beef tongue, crab salad or a munster
cheese course with a gewürztraminer gelée. The technique for this crisp can also
be used with other spices like cumin, fennel, fennel pollen, espellette pepper,
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sesame seeds, clove, allspice, mustard seed. The sky is the limit for this neutral
palate.
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Celery soup with smoked crawfish The crayfish are smoked from raw so as the
meat is fully penetrated with the smoke and spices. The celery soup is served
warm and is enhanced with a puree of lovage leaves and olive oil which adds
complexity to the sometimes watery celery. The celery soup is made by sweating
the hearts, and pureeing it with the peeled and blanched green outer stalks. Fried
celey leaves seasoned with celery salt top the smoked crawfish. Note that rock
shrimp can be substituted for the crawfish. A spice and shell fish oil is made with
the crayfish boddies and is drizzled on the soup tableside. The effect irrors adding
spice chili oil to noodle soups at japanese restaurants.
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Green ramp vichyssoise with pickled ramps as garnish A silky potato puree is
combined with an intense puree of ramp greens to create a light green vichyssoise.
The soup is poured around three just poached center cut oysters. Pickled ramp
rounds are beneath the oysters. For added luxury the oysters are topped with a
spoonful of caviar and a pinch of radish chiffonade. This soup combines
frugalness with luxury. The potato puree can be left over from the night before,
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while the ramp tops are the by product of the preserved pickled ramps. The soup
should also be finished with the oyster liquor left over from poaching the oysters.
The oysters are poached in a light broth of oyster liquor and butter, seasoned with
lemon juice and tobasco.
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Prune armangac flan with foie gras ragu or foie gras flan with prune armangac
marmalade folded into seared foie gras. A foie gras flan is enriched with prunes
steeped in armangac for a richer rounder flavor. The flan is topped with a chile
and cinnamon spiced tuile and then a ragu of seared foie gras diced armangac
steeped prunes deglazed with armancac and finished with chives. The Dish then
balances with recurring flavors and varyiung textures. The key elements of the
dish become highlighted for the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.
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Poached egg soup: poach egg and trim, warm and just cut off top, then float
garnish (caviar, brown butter and lemon zest scented croutons and chives)in egg
yolk. An egg lovers dream inspired by soups thickened with liaisons of egg yolks
and whipped cream. In this instance the egg or liason is the soup piqued by
caviar, brown butter and lemon. The egg soup acts to elevate the egg garnish. The
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dish is designed to allow the two key ingredients to show off each other while the
lemon, brown butter and chives coral and punctuate the ingredients key flavors.
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Black truffle financier to serve with soup or to use in a cheese course We prepare
the financier with soups and cheese courses because it acts as a heady yet neutral
base for the key ingredients of the dish. These financier can also be prepared with
white truffles for the brown butter in the financier(a key element) is a flavor
elevator particularly for white truffles. While the financier is merely an
accompaniment, when combined with soups and cheeses it becomes an
indespensiple aspect of the dish. Similarly, the financier works well on its own
with sweet butter and fleur de sel.
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Zuchinni veloute with caviar An intense zuchinin base scented with basil and
nutmeg is enriched with a puree of soft boiled eggs and whipped cream. This
lighter liason is combined with the zucchini base to create an ethereal veloute
which is then crowns a large mound of caviar. The soup acts to hide the caviar
and thus create a surprise for the diner. A tempura of zucchini blossoms
accompanies the veloute to add a salty warm crunchy sweet garnish. The blossom
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acts as scoop for the veloute. The blossom becomes the oyster cracker for
chowder, an essential component.
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Savory crème caramel: truffle flan with veal demiglasse gastrique, foie gras flan
with banyuls gastrique A caramel is deglazed with banyuls vinegar and reduced to
a syrup which then a veal demi-glace is added. Once again the liquid is reduced to
a syrup. The syrup is then set in small ramekins and frozen. A truffle and foie
gras flan base is then poured over the frozen syrup and then baked in a 275
degreee oven in a water bath. The flans are then refrigerated to set then served
chille on plates so the caramel veal sauce tops the flan and pours over the plate.
Shaved black truffles and grated smoked foie gras garnish the plate and accentuate
the flavors of the flan.
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Bake flans in bottom of bowls and cups and top with soup: lobster bisque or froth
with truffle custard, chestnut custard, sweet potato custard with smoked ham
emulsion, celery root with mushroom froth. A duality of flavors and textures is
the key to allowing these dishes to succeed. The flavors support each other and
the textures accent each other. Solid garnishes for these dual texture sishes
combine both components. For instance with the chestnut truffle custards and
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lobster emulsion, a ragu would consist of toasted shaved chestnuts, black truffle
slices, lobster knuckles, and lobster coral tuiles, bright red scented with truffle and
made with chestnut flour. We learn ingredients work together well, and it is fun to
use them together in many forms in one dish. Similarly, the reuse of ingredients in
one dish highlights the individual characteristics of the ingredients. One can then
extrapolate dishes with other ingredients that support or define one another.
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Liason: whip cream and egg yolk Use this neutral light thickener to enrich delicate
or strong consommés or vegetable soups. While simply a neutral thickener the
liason can be flavored with volatile ingredients so that the last second cooking
releases aromas and flavors which enhance and finish the soup. Delicacy is key.
Understand that delicate can be bold.
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Pour tableside soups from tea pots into bowl with garnish: gelée, ragu, dumplings
Here the dishes arrive tableside somewhat stark, a picture without its colors. The
action of pouring the soup tableside adds drama, aroma, action to the food.
Dumplings will float or be covered. Spices will be heated releasing their intense or
subtle perfume. Gelee’s will melt into the soup adding another dimension or for
that matter finishing the soups balance in front of the diner. Here the diner is
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involved in the cooking process. The best flavors, smells aromas, sights and
sounds take place in the kitchen. Why not share some of these experiences with
the diner.
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Mushroom and salsify latte to garnish a salad of salsify, herbs and mushrooms A
salsify soup is made by cooking salsify in cream and water. Milk does not act
stable enough. This base is infused with lemongrass. The soup base is kept thin,
the consistency of milk. Make sure it is pureed and strained twice. This part of
the latte is finished with crème fraiche seasoned with cayenne, lemon zest and
lemon oil, in order to pick up and punctuate the lemongrass undertones. The
mushroom base or “espresso” is made by sweating onions and button mushroom
with salt, curry powder and soy sauce. The liquid which emerges is strained, and
gently reduced to an intense mushroom base, resembling the intensity of espresso.
The mushroom base is then poured into the frothed salsify milk in one spot so
that the dark ring shows up in the center of the white foam. A salad of braised
salsify and oyster mushrooms garnished with celery leaves, lemon zest, chives and
lemon oil accompanies the latte. A light dusting of shiitake mushroom dust
finishes the salad so as to highlight the earthy mushrooms and smooth salsify.
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Lovage milk with milk and crème fraiche The lovage, with its intense mentholy
aroma and stong celery flavor is first blanched to tame its flaver as well as cook it
and set its color. The lovage is then drained and pureed with milk to form a light
soup. The base is then strained and chilled. It is then gently warmed and finishe
with crème fraiche seasoned with cayenne, celery salt and truffle oil. These
flavors support and round out the intensity of the lovage. This soup can be used
with both meat and fish as well as a soup of its own. Similarly, it can be used to
finish a celery soup by adding intensity. This base will also work quite well as a
froth around risotto or pasta, its pale green accenting white creamy risotto.
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Roast shallot soup with crab mustard, crab and crème fraiche Slow roast the
shallots en papillote with sherry, butter, and olive oil. Puree this base with water
and strain. Warm the soup up and finish it with either crème fraiche or butter
flavored with crab mustard. Pour the soup around a crab salad lightly spiced and
seasoned with crab mustard crème fraiche. Garnisht the salad with fried shallots,
ginger and lemon zest. Sprinkle the soup with espelette pepper.
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Celery root soup with crab salad This soup must be very light and very intense.
First a celery root broth is made using white miripoix and celery root. Secondly
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an intense celery root puree is made with cream, brown butter, lemon juice and
zest as well as crème fraiche. The light broth is then emulsified with the puree to
create a heady celery root soup. The soup is then poured tableside around a crab
salad which sits atop a pale green celery gelée. The gelée melts into the soup
further rounding and intensifying flavors. The crab remains neautral bound with a
yuzu mayonnaise. A chiifonade of celery leaf gives the salad slight celery
undertones, and fried celery leaves top the salad.
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Sea urchin soup with roasted cauliflower and spicy clam tar tar The soup base is
made with a light chicken broth which has fresh raw clam juiceadded to it. This
broth is then emulsified with a sea urchin butter, scented with brown butter,
crushed red pepper and rosemary. This infusion is made by browning some
butter with these seasonings and then strasining it over cold butter and whipping
it. To this, fresh sea urchin roe is whipped in. The amount of sea urchinshould be
fairly large, for it is the seasoning base for the soup. Note that the sea urchin
butter can be used in many other contexts, from stuffing fish or scallops or to
saucing pasta. Once the sea urchin butter is made, it should be rolled into roulades
and frozen till needed. The clam-chicken broth should be brought to a simmer and
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then slices of the sea urchin butter should be emulsified into the broth. The
soup’s flavor should be piqued with several drops of lemon juice and several
grinds of black pepper. Meanwhile, while the broth is gently warming, the clam
tartare is prepared. The fresh clams are minced with olive oil, black pepper,
tobasco and lemon zest. Fresh chives are added at the last moment. The tartare is
served on grilled bread rubbed with olive oil and raw shallots. Traditionally the
bread would be rubbed with garlic, but its flavor is to intenswe for the tartare and
the soup. Finally, the soup is frothed on last time and poured into a small cup. A
drizzle of lemon oil and smoked paprika tops the froth. The spiced clam tartare is
served on a side plate finished with several grains of fleur de sel to accent the
flavors of the sea. This dish is meant to make an impact and show off the intense
nature of the sea and marine life. It is terrific in a small portiuon, though its
impact is lost on a grander scale.
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Salsify puree with caviar, oysters or minced truffle Salsify when cooked has an
earthy, voluptuous but rather neutral flavor. It is a creamy delicate vehicle for
carrying flavors. Here the salsify puree disguises what lies beneath. The salsify is
gently braised in an herbal lemon broth. When the salsify is tenderit is pureed
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with the cooking liquid till smooth and creamy. The puree is then passed through
a chinoix to remove any impurities. The puree is then thinned to the consistency
of milk with the addition of spring water. The puree is then heated and finally
emulsified with lemon oil and butter. The salsify is then poure over caviar sitting
in the bottom of cups or a black truffle fondue. Be careful when pouring the soup
over the hidden ingredient so that the diner has no idea of the surprise until they
begin eating. Serve the salsify soup with no additional garnishes, for when the
diner begins to eat they will garnish the soup with the ingredient from beneath.
The truffle fondue is made by lightly browning butter in olive oil. To this maiera
and a splash of soy sauce is added and reduced to a light syrup. At this point
minced truffles are added to bloom their flavors. The fondue is finished off the
heat with a small nob of butter and several drops of truffle oil. A grind of black
pepper and a pinch of fleur de sel should really bring out the truffle flavor. Taste
the fondue, and if it seems not to be dancing on your palate add a drop or two of
vinegar to pique all the flavors. The vinegar is there to focus flavors, not give a
vinegar taste. Note that the salsify puree can be used to poach and oyster and be
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served with the oyster or in a decadent world the poached oyster would be served
with the truffle fondue or the caviar.
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Zuchinni flan as base for scallops, lobster, cod The zuchinni flan is made with a
puree of zuchinni (mostly skins) which have been blanche and cooked through.
The zuchinni is then pureed till smooth and then left to drain to remove any extra
water. The zuchinni puree is then pureed with a flan base seasoneed with basil,
white pepper and nutmeg. This base is then finished with chlorophyll to
punctuate the green in the zuchinni. The flan base is then strained one last time
and set in ramekins or disposable metal cups. The flan can also be cooked in
bowls or dishes in which it will be served and topped with appropriate
ingredients. The flan served in a small bowl can be served with a warm ragout of
lobster knuckles, roasted baby zuchinni, tomato concasse, chanterelles(ideally
lightly pickled), baby basil and finished with lobster oil. Similarly, nantucket bay
scallops can be pan roasted and finished with fresh alomonds and lemon oil, zest
and juice served around the flan. Blanched strips of zuchinni dressed in a neutral
vinaigrette are draped over the scallops. As with cod, thzuchinni is blanched and
wrapped around the cod loins. Similarly, the cod trim has been salted and
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seasonded with herbs and made into a brandade with the zuchinni’s interior which
was lightly cooked in milk and then treated like mashed potatoes with the
addition of olive oil, leeks and tobasco. In this dish nothing from the zuchinni or
the cod is wasted. The cod sits on top of the zuchinni brandade while the flan is
garnished with a light tomato and zuchinni string salad. Lemon scented olive oil,
cracked black pepper and fresh grated mace finish the dish.
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Foie gras soup with foie gras butter(one lobe of foie gras, two pounds of butter,
flamed hot brandy, curing mix—tammis butter and foie and season, then cream
together then pour flamed brandy over and whip till very light. Chill slightly then
pipe into little kisses):mount rich consommé with foie gras butter and balance
flavors. This soup is balanced with black pepper and balsamic vinegar. The soup
is poured around a ragout of seared nantucket bay scallops, cubes of foie gras and
diced braised quince all the same size. The soup is poured tableside so the
arrangement of the garnishes can be observed as well as the drop of 100 year old
balsamic vinegar in the bowl. The ragout should be sprinkled with savory spice
walnuts as well as pomegranate seeds. These finishing garnishes will hifhten the
palate and punctuate individual bites with acidity, crunch and richness.
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Zuchinni soup with basil and mint (members of the same family) This soup is
made with blanched zuchinni skins. Similar to the zuchinni flan, the skins and
some flesh are cooked through but not to mush. The zuchinni is then pureed with
water which was steeped with both basil and mint, members of the same family
which add depth and background to the earthy green taste of the zucchini. The
importance in this soup is the infusion of the background flavors into the broth or
in this case water. Therfore we take the best from the herb, without retaining any
of its natural discoloring tendencies. Once the soup is purreed and strained its
versatility becomes endless. It can be served either hot or cold. The garnishes can
be as simple as charred tomatoes, mushrooms and sautéed zuchinni or as
complicated as crispy zuchinni blossom and sweetbread beignets seasoned with
nutmeg salt. The soup can be finished with butter or olive oil or both depending
on the diners.
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Bone marrow custard with steak tar tar and crispy bone marrow. The bone
marrow custard is made with a mixture of cream, eggs, milk, cayenne salt and
blanched bone marrow. We could also use smoked bone marrow for this custard
to take it in an even more complex direction. The flan is cooked in a small dish or
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to follow today’s trends baked in the bone. The custard is then topped with a
slice of raw bone marrow which was breaded and then fried. The crispy bone
marrow is topped with prime steak tartare, seasoned with black pepper and dijon
mustard mayonnaise. Fresh parsley finishes the tartare. The flavorings of the
tartare are traditional with broiled bone marrow, so their inclusion in the cold
tartare is a fundamentally as well as a fun adaptation of traditional recipes. The
crispy bone marrow adds texture and depth to the dish. Similarly, it allows us to
serve the tartare without the usual accompaniament of toasted or grilled bread.
Several drops of or a light spritz of red wine syrup on the plate will complete the
dish adding points of focused acidity to the dish which in turn will help cut
through the multiple rich elements of the dish.
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Foie gras custard with French prune marmalade balanced on a blck pepper and
cinnamon tuile to add crunch and spice to the dish. There are several interesting
aspects to this dish. Firs of all by making a custard with the foie gras you can use
smaller lobes of foie gras. If the foie is blemished or old it is of no use using, but
the smaller lobes which are not used for cold or hot prepetations can be ideally
utilized here. The second interesting aspect of this custard is that you can first
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smoke these smaller lobes of foie to preserve them and then develop a smoked foie
gras custard. The savory tuile adds a third element to the custard. It adds both
spice and texture to the rich custard. The french prune marmalade is both the
garnish and the balance of flavors to create a complete dish. The prunes are first
diced and then cooked down with mninced red onions. Armangac is added to the
pan as well as three citrus zests. The prunes are cooked down and then seasoned
with allspice, black pepper and a pinch more salt if needed. Use a fine sea salt at
the end of dishes for it dissolves easily and its impact can be recognized almost
immediately. Finally, several drops of banyuls vinegar are added to the
marmalade. The prunes are then cooled down and upon serving freshly sliced
chives are folded into the marmalade to add a fresh onion flavor. Note that this
custard can be served both hot or cold, just remember to warm the marmalade if
using hot. To assemble the dish top the custard with the cinnamon black pepper
tuile and then a quenelle of the marmalade. Top the marmalade with strips of
confited citrus:lemon, lime and orange, blanched three times in simple syrup.
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Use lettuce and mint in pea soup base The addition of these two ingredients to
the soup adds lightness—from the crisp juicy lettuce—and focus through the mint
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which should be infused in water theus flavoring the soup base. The lettuce used
should be light and crisp like bibb. Iceburg hearts will also work well, however
romaine when it is cooked has too strong a flavor.
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Set flans in the bottom of soup bowls and pour soups over the top: chestnut
consommé with lobster custard, foie gras soup with truffle flan Here we are
combining the techniques of making great soups and flans or custards. These
dishes add a duality in both texture and flavor. The combinations are limitless
following the ideas of matching or balancing flavors. Also note that the ragout or
garnish for these dual flavored dishes can and should contain elements of both key
ingredients thus acting as the initial union of the two somewhat divided elements.
Upon eating the dish the ingredients are combined, each bite slightly different
depending on the ration of ingredients on the spoon. The key to these dishes is to
keep them small so that the diner is not easily fatigued by the flavors. The reason
being is that the layering of flavors while essential can become burdening, actually
heavy if endured to long. One final note is that you can also combine the same
ingredient three times in these dishes. Thus a chestnut flan could be topped by
chestnut consommé which surrounds chestnut confit.
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Foie gras flan in duck egg shell with quince ragu The reason for using the duck egg
with the foie gras flan is that foie gras comes from ducks. Similarly, the duck egg
yolk is slightly richer than that of the chicken, so its use in the flan adds a fuller
flavor with a richer mouthfeel. The quince ragout is extremely floral do to a
quinces natural properties and the poaching liquid used to cook the quince. The
poached quince are cooked with white wine, sugar, salt, honey, vanilla, rosemary,
fresh bay, allspice, black pepper, cinnamon, orange and lemon zests. Once the
quince are poached and cooled they are cut into a small dice. Save the trim for
another purpose like a quince vinaigrette. The quince dice is then warmed with a
little of the poaching liquid until the qince comes together as a tight ragout.
Chives, black pepper, a pinch of butter and several drops of white wine vinegar
complete the ragout. This is thenplaced on the foie gras custard, which is then
topped with a quince chip. The chip is made by thinly slicing the quince on a
mandoline and then dipping the slices in the poaching liquid after which they are
laid out on a sil pat and covered with another. The chips are dried in a 200 degree
oven until chip like not burnt. Test the chips by removing one from the oven an
rubbing on a plate to cool down. It should crack like a chip. If it is still pliable
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return to the oven. Continue to use the same chip as your tester so that excessive
amounts of chips and your time is wasted.
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Thread tuiles with herbs, spices, truffles, citrus confit The technique or idea here
is important to ad both texture and flavor to tuiles used as garnishes which end up
acting as flavor agents.
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Chestnut “tea” steeped with a sachet of black truffle then pour around ravioli or
vegetables and serve “sachet” on toast with salted butter(apply to lobster soup or
game consommé as well) Other ingredients can be used in the sachet as well as
other teas. Part of the success of this dish is serving it from a tea pot showing the
diner how to eat the sachet on the accompanying breadlike garnish. The sachet
should be intense enough to flavor the consommé ofr tea poured but not so intense
or bracing to detract from being able to eat it separately. As garnishes or
accompaniments to this tea service use scones, or bisquits, or crumpets or tea
sandwiches playing off traditional high tea.
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Truffle and morel veloute: teapot filled with morel veloute and minced black
truffle “tea” served with tea cup which has sliced roasted morel and truffle ragu—
Pour tea over ragu in stages so tea develops intense flavors. Finally spread “Tea”
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onto salted buttered scones or mini brioche which accompanies soup. (apply to
other flavors and textures)
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Sherry and crab mustard and roe cream This is a good base for a crab salad or
other hot or cold seafood preparations. For that matter it is also excellent dizzled
over veal carpacio with baby asparagus for a play off veal oscar. First the sherry
is flamed to cook off its alcohol and then gently reduced to focus its flavor.
Meanwhile three eggs are brought up to a boil in cold water and then shocked after
ten seconds of boiling. The eggs are crcked and the insides are removed and
pureed with the reduced chilled sherry, the roe if any and the crab mustard as well
as tobasco, salt and lemon juice. To this base grapeseed oil is emulsified as well as
one quarter the amount of olive oil for a round slightly bitter undertone. When the
base has a thick creamy consistency taste to make sure the flavors are balanced. A
few drops more lemon, tobasco or a pinch of salt may be needed. Pass this cream
through a fine sieve. Reserve for your desired use.
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Lobster with oloroso sherry The lobster emulsion is poured over a piece of
lobster and its coral set in an oloroso sherry gelée. The hot emulsion casues the
gelée to melt similar to adding a shot of sherry a bisque at the table. Here the diner
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watches the the gelée melt ant the lobsterbecome hidden by the emulsion while the
roe floats to the top. To cook the lobster roe place it in a ziploc bag and cook in
poiling water until red throughout. Remove from the water and break the roe up
on a plate. Place the plate in a very low oven until drtu. Push the roe through a
sieve to break into unform granules(actually the eggs).
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Potato and leek custard: caviar, lobster, black truffle, foie gras Potato and leek
custard a play off vichyssoise. The base is made with milk and cream steeped
with blanched leek whites and thinly sliced potatoes. The cream is then measured
and eggs are added to the base. The custard base is set in small dishes and is
baked, covered, in a water bath at 275 degrees for 45 minutes to an hour. The
custard can then be served both hot or cold. If to be used hot, the custards should
then be held in a 140 degree oven so the custard stays warm and does not
overcook. The above garnishes are only a few which this neutral voluptuous
custard could support. The caviar should be served on a flat potato chip which
suspends over the custard so that it remains cool and the chip crisp, allowing the
diner to combine ingredients and textures at the last moment. The lobster is a
ragout of sliced lobster knuckles, combined with a potato and apple dice seasoned
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with saffron and chives. The ragout sits on a potato tuile on the custard to add
texture to the dish. The black truffle is a julinne which is combined with a julinne
of potato, apple and leek. This is tossed with a dressing of crème fraiche, dijon
mustard, red wine vinegar, black pepper and a drop of soy and truffle oil. In this
dish the custard can be served hot or cold, while the salad is served chilled to room
temperature. Also the salad can an should be garnished with fried potato strings
to add a crisp texture to the salad. The foie gras with the custard should be a
perfect cube seared and rested. It sits on a potato and curry tuile. It is garnished
with fleur de sel, black pepper and a leek and potato gastrique. The caramel is
made and deglazed with potato juice and vodka as well as sliced leeks and
champagne vinegar. The gastrique is reduced to a syrup and then strained. The
gastrique is then reserved and when ready to use gently warmed where a brunoise
of poato and leek are folded in as well as a knob of butter and a drop of foie fat.
This should round out the flavors and balance the foie gras and the custard.
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Langostine soup with truffled bisquits and crème fraiche The soup base is made
with crushed langostine bodies which were cleaned with their lungs removed. To
the caramelized bodies we add a white miripoix with ginger and jalapeno. After
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which we add fresh tomatoes or if necessary canned tomatoes. Once the pan is
almost dry we add soy sauce and again let the pan cook to almost dry. At this
point we deglaze with white wine, allowing the liquid to cook down to a syrup
each time. Once all the wine has been added to the pan, we cover the ingredients
with water and bring to a simmer. When the broth reaches a simmer we add fresh
basil, rosemary, cilantro, bay leaf, parsley and lemongrass. The broth is then
simmered for fortyfive minutes. At this point the heat is turned off and the broth
is let to sit for twenty minutes to let is settle out. At this point it is strained
through a cheese cloth into another pot and cooked till reduced by half. At this
point, twice the volume of heavy cream is added and the broth is reduced to nape.
During this reduction a second round of herbs is added to the soup to add a floral
herbal quality to the base. Make sure to continuously skim the foam which rises
to the surface. A more refined soup will be the result. While the soup is reducing,
season the crème fraiche which will be used to add the final flavor and richness to
the soup. We add cayenne, black and white pepper along with salt, dried orange
zest, allspice and a touch of truffle oil to the crème fraiche. These flavors pick up
and accent the flavors in the soup. The bisquits served with the soup are a simple
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cream bisquit, thus acting as a neutral foil for the truffle butter and the soup itself.
The truffle butter is made by mixing fleur de sel, soy sauce, black pepper, minced
truffle and truffle oil together. This seasoned butter is then served alongside the
soup and bisquit so the diner may apply the desired amount of butter to each bite
of bisquit. Also, the application of cold butter to the hot bisquit allows the diner
to witness the initial fragrance of the truffle, causing salivation and anticipation of
the bite to come.
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Oyster in cauliflower veloute with a cauliflower gratin. The oysters are first
shucked and then trimmed with the juice and trim reserved. To the trim add an
equal amount of heavy cream and several dashes of tobasco. Let this liquid sit
overnight. Keep the trimmed oysters in a separate container. They should exude
a clean fresh liquour which will cover them. Meanwhile prepare the cauliflower
for the gratin and the veloute. Trim the head of cauliflower so that you have only
the florettes. Blanch these florettes until cooked just through then shock and
allow to dry. Take half of the cauliflower and grind it in a food processor until the
consistency of coarse sand is achieved. Refrigerate the ingredients until the next
day. Take the cauliflower florettes and sweat them in butter. While the
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cauliflower is sweating bring the cream and trim to a boil slowly. Skim constantly.
Once at a boil turn to a simmer, dkim then strain. Reserving one quarter of this
liquid to cook the oysters in. To the sweating cauliflower add vermouth and let
the alcohol cook off. Then add the oyster cream and bring the ingredients to a
simmer. The cauliflower should be completely falling apart. At this point puree
the mixture in a blender until silkenly smooth then pass through a fine strainer.
Taste to adjust seasoning. At this point cool down or place in a pot and keep
warm for immediate use. To finish add the oyters to a small sauté pan and add the
reserved cream to come halfway up the oyster. Take the coarse cauliflower and
mix with softened butter, toasted curry, allspice and bacon fat and top the oyster
with the crumb topping. Place the oysters under the broiler to brown the
cauliflower. The oyster liquor in the pan will allow for moist cooking and the
oysters should not over cook. When the oysters are just browned remove from
the broiler and place two oysters in the center of each bowl. Make sure to blot
the bottom of the oyster dry so the liquid does not run in the bowl. Serve the hot
veloute in a silver pitcher to pour tableside. To truly induge the diner serve a
spoonful of caviar with each bowl of soup. The cool popping of the caviar
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contrasts the smooth veloute and the caramelized oysters. Note that the
cauliflower crust can be mixed and rolled between parchment and then chilled and
cut to any shape for crusting other meat or fish or for that matter small rounds for
the oysters.
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Potato beignet with black truffle sauce The potato beignet is made with riced
yukon gold potatoes, flour, eggs, yeast and fresh ricotta. Nutmeg, cayenne and
black pepper season the batter. The mixture is allowed to rest and then deep fried
till crusty and light. The beignet are seasoned with fleur de sel and black truffle
dust, made frominced black truffle peelings. The black truffle sauce is served on
the side in an espresso cup mirroring the coffee and beignets served at café du
monde in Louisianna. The sauce is made with a mushroom broth extracted from
sweating button mushrooms with soy sauce and vermouth. The resultant liquid is
strained and gently reduced. When the liquids flavor is rich and concentrated,
black truffles are pureed into the base along with a few drops of truffle oil and a
few drups o f banyuls vinegar. The sauce should be thick enough to coat the back
of a spoon. The sauce can be held warm or chilled until to ready to serve. When
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serving the sauce with the beignet swirl in a teaspoon of black truffle butter to
highten the flavors and add a sheen to the sauce.
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Persillade soup with butter poached lobster knuckles, bordelaise sauce and bone
marrow flan Parsley, garlic and lemon are the stars of this soup. The other
components are merely there to let the soup shine. To make the soup, blanch
garlic in milk three times. The milk is seasoned with salt, sugar, cayenne and
allspice. These ingredients help tame the garlics acrid taste as well as highlight its
sweet and floral nuances. Once the garlic is blanched, blanch several cups of
cleaned flat leaf parsley. Once the parsley is blanched puree it ice cold with fish
fume thinned out with spring water and the blanched garlic. When the broth is
pureed strain and reserve it. The bordelaise sauce is a red wine sauce made with
veal stock and finished with bone marrow. It’s flavor is rich, acidic and smooth.
It helps to cut through the rich flavors of the lobster and the bone marrow flan.
The bone marrow flan is cooked in small ramekins so that it can be popped out
and placed in soup bowls. The lobster knuckles are previously cooked when they
were blanched in the preparation of lobsters for another dish and thus reserved.
This dish can be made larger and a whole or half a lobster may be served. To
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finish the dish, the lobster knuckles are warmed in beur monte seasoned with salt,
lemon juice, cayenne and lemon confit. The bone marrow flan is gently warmed in
a low oven and then placed in a warm soup bowl. The parsley garlic broth is
warmed and then emulsified with the seasoned beur monte used to warm the
lobster knuckles. At this point the knuckles are arranged on the flan, garnished
with micro parsley, lemon zest and chopped lemon confit. The bordelaise sauce is
drizzled over the top, and the persillade soup is poured around the garnish at the
table.
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Sea urchin in sesame seed beignet This is a garnish to a sea urchin soup made with
a lobster broth base. The lobster broth or jus is made in the same manner as the
langostine soup. However, for the sea urchin soup we do not add the heavy
cream, rather when the broth is reduced by half we then emulsify it with an
intense sea urchin butter. The soup is then sstrained and served with the sea
urchin beignet. The batter is made with tofu, yeast, flour, soy sauce, miso, sesame
oil, espelette pepper, egg whites and sesame seeds. The batter is made and
allowed to rest. At this point it is shaped into beignets, but a sea urchin “tongue”
is inserted in the center of each beignet before frying. When the beignet is
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removed from the fryer it is seasoned with freshly ground toasted sesame and
fleur de sel. These are then served alongside the intense sea urchin soup which is
poured around a salad of fmarinated hijiki seaweed and fresh sea urchin. The salad
is seasoned with chives, espelette pepper, rice vinegar and sesame oil along with a
splash of soy sauce and red wine vinegar.
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Sea urchin cappuccino with lemon froth, aleppo pepper oil served with sea urchin
and lemon confit tempura
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Infuse chicken stock with konbu and bonito for sea urchin soup
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Sea urchin soup with lobster sauternes froth The sea urchin soup is made in the
same manner as that used with the sea urchin and sesame beignet. The sauternes
froth is used to balance the briny intensity of the sea urchin soup. The froth is
made by sweating shallots, ginger, salt, and orange zest in butter and grapeseed oil.
When the shallots are soft allow them to caramelize lightly and then begin
deglazing with the sauternes. Deglaze in stages allowing the alcohol to burn off
and the liquid to continuously reduce to a syrup. Halfway through the bottle, add
one fresh bay leaf. When the all the sauternes is added, remove the bay leaf and
add a light chicken stock. Bring up to a simmer then add some heavy cream bring
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to a simmer then strain into a clean pot and reduce till the consistency of whole
milk. Taste the base. Adjust the seasoning. To finish the froth, emulsify with
crème fraiche seasoned with an orange juice syrup reduced with flamed sauternes,
cayenne and orange zest. To serve, top the sea urchin tongues with the sea urchin
soup, and then crown with the lighter sauternes froth. Serve immediately. Dust
the soup with caramelized dried orange zest.
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Snails in parsley soup with garlic froth and Spanish ham The snails are wrapped
tightly in the Spanish ham with a mixture minced mushrooms, chives, rosemary
and a brunoise of miripoix, all bound with bordelaise sauce. These packages are
then pan fried on one side in extra virgin olive oil and then kept warm in the oven.
The parsley soup is made with fish fume, mussel liquor, blanched parsley and
lemon oil. Everything is pureed together ice cold to preserve the color of the
parsley. Note that the lemon oil should be emulsified into the soup just before
serving otherwise the acid in the oil will turn the color of the soup. The garlic
froth is made by pureeing milk blanched garlic with skim milk and straining. It is
then warmed before serving and emulsified with crème fraiche seasoned with hot
smoked paprika. The dish is assembled by placing to snail packages in the center
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of the boul and pouring the parsley broth around. Several small spoonfuls of
garlic froth finish the soup. Make sure to use the top of the froth being the
lightest and most stable so the garlic clouds are seen when they reach the table.
Dust the soup with smoke paprika and a few drops of lemon oil.
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Sea urchin custard with lemon froth garnished with Aleppo pepper The sea uchin
custard is made with a custard base infused with lemon zest and sea urchin. This
custard base must sit overnight with the sea uchin still in it. This allows the sea
urchin flavor to truly permeate the custard base. The next day the base is strained
and cooked in sea urchin shells or small bowls. The lemon froth should also be
made the day before serving to allow the flavors to marry and mellow. Red onion,
ginger, jalapeno and lemongrass are sweat in a pan. Vermouth is added in several
stages, followed by soy sauce. Fresh lemon zest is added and so is cream. The
mixture is cooked for several minutes then removed from the heat and allowed to
cool and then is refrigerated overnight. The broth is then stained the nezt day and
its flavors balanced with salt and aleppo pepper. Make sure the lemon froth base
is not to thick for it will be finished with crème fraiche seasoned with lemon zest.
When the custard is cooked, it can be held warm in an oven for an hour or so. To
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serve place the urchin shell on a plate lined with rock salt and sliced lemongrass(to
resemble sea grass). Top the custard with several sea urchin tongues and a little
lemon oil. Emulsify the lemon froth with the flavored crème fraiche and top the
custard with it. Garnish the top with chives, lemon zest and aleppo pepper.
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Matsutake mushroom broth infused with pine needles, soy sauce and duck
consommé Fall, earthy heady aromas. The matsutake mushroom grows wild and
its heady rich aroma perfumes all it touches. The fall also calls for duck. Here we
combine these two autumnal benchmarks. First, an intense duck consommé is
prepared using roast duck bones. Let the bones carmelize gently to extract all the
essence of the duck. Once the duck stock is prepared reduced, make the raft and
fold in washed pine needles. If they are not available use rosemary, but the pine
needles give this consome its distinct flavor. Once the consommé is finished
adjust the seasoning with soy sauce and minus 8 vinegar. The matsutake
mushrooms must be wiped clean with a warm dlightly damp cloth. Once they are
free from dirt, the bottom is trimed to remove the course part of the mushroom
which was in the ground. Season the mushroom with fleur de sel and olive oil.
Grill the mushrooms on a medium grill to allow the mushrooms to cook as well as
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form intense grilled caramelization. Once the mushroom are cooked remove from
the heat and allow to rest on a plate. While still warm slice the mushroom and
season with olive oil and either herb flavored fleur de sel or toasted sesame seeds
and smoked salt ground together. Add a small pile of sliced green onions on the
top of the mushrooms. Place the mushrooms in warmed bowls and dress with the
juice which remains on the plate. Serve the mushrooms as is with the duckconsome in a tea pot on the side. Allow the diners to eat the mushrooms by
themselves, and once they have tasted them pour the consommé over the
mushrooms. Now the mushrooms and consommé will flavor each other showing
the diner another intense flavor combination. The matsutake juices in the bowl
will be fully consumed by the consommé and an intense fall soup will have been
created.
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Lobster flan with tarragon emulsion The lobster flan is made by making an intense
lobster cream. The same method for making lobster stock is used for the lobster
cream, but once the white wine has been reduced to a syrup cream is added and
then the herb sachet. The cream is cooked like the lobster stock and then strained.
During the cooking make sure to constantly skim the cream. Use the lobster
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cream to make the flan base and cook in small bowls or coffee cups. Top the
custards with a warm lobster knuckle salad dressed with lemon flavored beur
monte and fresh tarragon. Top the salad with a tarragon emulsion. To make the
tarragon emulsion reserve some of the lobster cream and while still hot infuse with
a large bunch of tarragon. Let sit overnight then strain the cream the next day.
Heat the cream, balance with a few drops of yuzu juice or if unavailable lemon
juice and emulsify with a nob of butter. Top the lobster salad and flan with the
tarragon froth. Garnish with black pepper and yuzu zest.
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Oxtail broth with tappiocca pearls The oxtail broth is generated by braising the
oxtail. The oxtail is first marinated with miripoix and red wine. It is then browned
and braised with stock, dried porcini mushrooms, fresh tomato, jalapeno, ginger,
soy sauce, red wine vinegar and miso. The meat is cooked till tender then allowed
to cool in the broth. Once it is cool the oxtail is removed and the meat is picked
off the bone. The broth is then stained into a clean saucepan were it is slowly
reduced and skimmed. When the flavor has intensified the broth is strained back
over the oxtail meat. The tapioca is first cooked in an herbal vegetable and
mushroom broth. Once the tapioca is cooked it is reserved to be served as a
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textural and flavor addition to the soup. The oxtail meat and broth are brought up
to a simmer at which point the tapioca is folded into the soup. A salad of fresh
cilantro, mint, red onion chiffonade, jalapeno brunoise, diced cucumber, tomato
concasse, lemon oil and black pepper is arranged in soup bowls. The tapioca and
oxtail broth is ladled around the salad at the table to keep the herbs and vegetalbles
fresh and to allow the diner to indulge in these last minute fragrances.
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Savory mascarpone sorbet with seafood soups: sea urchin, lobster, crab The
mascarpone is a neutral palate for herbs and spices which can be infused into the
sorbet. The cold sorbet adds creamy intensity to the soups it is seved with.
When serving the sorbet in soups, it is placed on either chopped herbs, vegetables,
or spices or nuts or a tuile. The soup is then poured around the sorbet and the
garnish at the table. The sorbet base is made by pureeing the mascarpone with a
spic and herb infused syrup. In order to use less sugar in the sorbet thus keeping
the sorbet savory we fold in premium vodka, a neutral spirit which will not
interfere with the flavors in the sorbet or the soup. For the sea urchin soup we
make a dill and toasted curry flavored sorbet. It rests on almonds coated with
toasted curry powder. The lobster soup is garnished with a black truffle sorbet
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which sits on minced black truffles. Note the truffle sorbet is infused with truffle
oil and truffle peelings, with a touch of soy sauce and lemon juice. The crab soup
is garnished with an old bay and dry sherry sorbet. The sorbet does not need the
additional use of vodka for the sherry’s alcohol is enough. The sorbet sits on
pickled apple dice.
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Celery root panna cotta with celery gelée and a black truffle and celery branch
salad. The panna cotta is made with a puree of celery root made with cream,
brown butter, truffle oil and lemon juice. The gelatin is melted in the warm celery
root puree(actually a thick cream) which is then folded into whole milk yoghurt
for both smoothness and an acidic balance. The panna cotta is then set in small
bowls. Once the panna cotta is set it is topped with a celery gelée. The gelée is
made with celery juice seasoned with vitamin c, tobasco and salt. Gelatin is
melted into a portion of the celery juice which is then folded into the remaining
juice. The celery gelée is cooled until a thick syrup at which point it is gently
spooned on the panna cotta’s to form a light gelatin mirror. The panna cotta are
returned to the refrigerator to set the gelatin. The salad for the panna cotta is
made with a julinne of black truffle, blanched celery batons, fleur de sel, truffle
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oil, olive oil, lemon juice, black pepper, and micro celery. The salad is arranged on
top of the panna cotta.
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Red wine vinegar and egg yolk liason for garlic soup The vinegar acts to allow the
soup to reach a higher temperature without causing the egg yolk to coagulate. The
use of red wine vinegar is to add richness and balance to the garlic soup which is
made with blanched and slow roasted garlic. The reason for the liason is for
texture and creaminess without the addition of excess butter. The soup then
becomes a stable creamy frothy essence of garlic. We are then able to serve a
small amount of the soup to express the essence of garlic and its intense and subtle
flavor profiles. The soup is garnished with a parsley puree which is actually
placed in the bottom of the small soup bowl or demitasse cup. The parsley adds
an herbal refreshing note to the soup and acts to clean the palate for the next taste
sensation. The parsley puree is made by blanching parsley and pureeing it with a
touch of water to enable the leaves to be pulverized. Once a smooth paste is
made, it is passed through a fine tammis to create a pure form of parsley without
fibers. The puree is then reserved and warmed lightly with a touch of chicken
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stock and beur monte. At the last moment several drops of lemon juice are added
to highten the refreshing flavor of the parsley.
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Salt cod custard with leek fondue and caviar The salt cod custard is made by
gently cooking the trimmed pieces from a side of salt cod and cooking it gently
with leeks, onions, garlic, white pepper, tobasco, celery root, bay leaf, lemongrass
and whole allspice in equal parts milk and cream. The liquid is brought to a gentle
simmer and then held their for twenty minutes at which point the pot is covered
and the salt cod and aromatics are left to cool and infuse in the liquid. When the
pot is cool, the liquid is strained and reserved. The salt cod liquid is then warmed
again and eggs are tempered into the liquid. The custard base is then tasted again
and seasonings are adjusted. The base is then poured into small dishes and baked
in a water bath at 275 degrees covered for about forty five minutes. The leek
fondue is made by cutting thin rounds of leeks and gently cooking them with
chicken stock, butter, salt, tobasco and pastis. When the leeks are meltingly
tender, they are done. The leek fndue can be made the day before. When serving
the custard, the leeks are warmed and seasoned with black pepper. They are then
placed in the center of the custard and topped with a quenelle of oscetra caviar.
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Morel ragu with crème fraiche, butter and herbs served with pea flan and ham
emulsion A pea puree is made first by blanching english and sugar snap peas till
they are cooked through. They are then pureed with as little water as possible to
make a silky puree. This is then passed through a tammis, and then left to hang in
cheesecloth to remove any excess liquid. Once the puree is dry, it is mixed with
milk and cream which has already been scalded and tempered with eggs. The
reason for not adding the puree during the tempering process is to preserve the
pea’s vibrant flavor and color. The pea base is then poured into small dishes and
baked in a 275 degree water bath for about forty five minutes. The ham emulsion
is made by sweating onions, shallots and garlic then adding Smithfield ham and
chicken stock as well as tobasco, allspice, and basil. This is tthen simmered and
finally purreed with butter and banyuls vinegar. The ham emulsion is strained and
reserved until needed at which point it will be emulsified with dijon mustard and a
touch more butter. The morel ragout is made by sauting the morels till they are
crunchy on the outside and creamy on the inside. This may have to be done in
several batches in which case the morels are drained on wire racks to remove
excess oil. When all the morels are roasted the fat is removed from the pan and it
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is deglazed with marsala wine, then chicken stock is added as well as soy sauce,
banyuls vinegar and a pinch of curry powder. The liquids are reduced to a syrup
and then the morels are added back to the pan with several spoonfuls of crème
fraiche. The mixture is brought together and finished with chives, parsly and a
small spoonful of chopped lemon confit. A small handful of planched english
peas are folded into the morel ragout which is then spooned on top of the pea
custard. The ham emulsion is then frothed and spooned over the morels. Fresh
allspice is grated over the emulsion and several drops of mint oil are sprinkled on
the emulsion.
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Sweet corn flan with marjoram and smoked trout and baby fried onion rings The
corn flan base is made by first roasting corn cobs and then cooking them with milk
and cream and cooling rapidly. The corn liquid is then poured over the fresh corn
kernels with a sachet of basil, marjoram, allspice and cumin. The liquid is then
heated and cooked until the corn is tender. The liquid is then chilled rapidly so the
corn will not turn sour. Once cold, the corn and the liquid is pureed and then
strained. It is then brought to a simmer again and eggs are tempered into the
liquid. The base can then be used at this point or it must be rapidly chilled. The
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corn flan is baked in a 275 degree coverd water bath for approximately forty five
minutes. Small spring onions are then thinly sliced and soaked in milk to remove
any harsh flavors of the onion. At the last minute, they are drained and dusted
with cumin infused cornstarch then fried and seasoned with a spice mix of clove,
toasted mustard and allspice. The ragout for the custard is made by caramelizing
raw corn, diced shiitake mushrooms and minced shallots, to which diced smoked
trout is added. The ragout is brought together with chicken stock and a touch of
butter. It is finished with chives and fresh marjoram. The crispy onion rings sit
on top along with micro marjoram.
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Carrot vichyssoise with potatoes leeks and carrots Here we are making a more
rounded carrot soup. A balance is achieved through the onion flavor of the melted
leeks, the creaminess from the starchy potatoes, and the sweet refreshing nature of
the carrots. This base is made by sweating the leeks, potatoes and the carrots
together with aleppo pepper. When the vegetables are tender they are covered
with carrot juice and allowed to cook together. The base is then pureed and
strained. The soup can then be served either hot or cold because of its neutral
ingredients. To garnish the soup, a tempura batter is made which is seasoned with
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fresh wasabi. Blanched peas are added to the batter and then fried and served hot
on the side of the soup. The spice from the wasbi makes a playful nudge towards
the combination of peas and carrots.
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Custards—mushroom with curried vegetables; lobster custard; corn custard with
zuchinni, chanterelle and basil hash; truffle custard with truffle fondue; foie gras
custard with prune marmalade and red onions; leek custard with potato ragu;
chilled potato custard with leeks vinaigrette; bacon and potato custard with clam
ragu; foie gras crème caramel with banyuls caramel These custards are further
examples of custards and their complimentary garnishes. The milk and cream base
is infused and pureed with all the intense flavor of the custards main ingredient.
Remember to extract as much flavor as possible without overcooking or detracting
from the custard. The ragouts or garnishes are used to add texture, flavor, aroma
and a visual asthetic which heightens the experience of eating the custard.
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Carrot custard with mace and spicy swiss chard fondue(raisins, garlic oil,
pinenuts) garnished with curry oil and fried shallots In this recipe, the custard
base is cooked and pureed with the carrots in order to capture the essence of the
carrot. However, the carrots are first slowly roasted in the oven with rosemary,
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honey, mace and rice wine vinegar to focus the flavor of the carrots and eventually
the custard. The custards are baked in small dishes in a covered 275 degree
waterbath for about forty five minutes. The ragout for the top of the custard is
actually a small salad. Baby swiss chard leaves are tossed with diced raisins,
toasted pinenuts, carrot Parisians first cooked in carrot juice, toasted garlic, lime
zest and juice and curry oil. The salad is then topped with fried shallots for a final
crunch.
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Lobster custard with broccoli and truffle ragu The lobster custard is made by
making lobster stock and then reducing it to a syrup and then adding the milk and
cream and reducing and marrying the flavors. The custard is set in dishes and
baked for forty five minutes in a 275 degree covered water bath. The ragout is
made by combining blanched baby broccoli flourettes, with sliced lobster knuckle
meat, diced truffles, minced lemon confit, soy sauce, cayenne pepper chicken
stock and butter. The ragout is heated through and placed on the custard. The
ragout is garnished with a parmesan truffle tuile. Set slices of truffle on grated
parmesan then top with more parmesan and bake till golden brown. The truffle
slice will be captured in the parmesan lattice work.
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Garlic and almond custard with frog leg ragu and parsley and orange salad
seasoned with clove oil The garlic is blanched three times in cold milk seasoned
with salt, sugar and thyme. Blanched slivered almonds are toasted in the oven till
they are golden brown. The garlic and almonds are then cooked with the milk and
cream mixture to marry the flavors at which point the mixture is pureed with
several drops of red wine vinegar to balance the richness of the custard. The
mixture is then strained and the eggs are then tempered into the base and then it is
strained again and poured into small cups. The custard is baked in a 275 degree
covered water bath for forty five minutes. The frog leg ragout is made by braising
the frog legs in lemongrass infused chicken stock. White soy sauce, pickled
habanero, ginger and white miripoix are also in the braise along with reisling and
fresh lime zest. When the meat is tender, the legs are cooled in the broth and then
the meat is picked off the bones. The braising liquid is strained and then reduced
by half and poured over the frog leg meat. The orange segments, ideally blood, are
confited with a rice wine vinegar, campari and sugar syrup. The hot syrup is
poured over the orange segments which stabilizes them. Once the segments are
cooled they are sliced into small triangles to be combined with the parsley leaves
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and toasted clove oil. To finish the dish the frog leg meat is warmed up in the
braising liquid with the addition of pickled brunoise, chives, butter and minced
lemon confit. The ragout crowns the custard and the salad tops the ragout.
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Celery root custard with lobster cappuccino The custard base is made by
sweating onions, sliced celery root, celery salt and cooking it in the milk and cream
base. The mixture is then pureed, strained and aggs are tempered into the base, at
which point tobasco and lemon juice are also added. The base is then strained
again and poured into cups and baked in a cover 275 degree water bath for forty
five minutes. The ragout for this custard is a diced celery root remoulade seasoned
with mustard, tarragon, crème fraiche, black pepper and pickled mustard seeds.
This is warmed gently and then sliced lobster knuckles and chives are also folded
in. The ragout and custard are then topped by a lobster cappuccino; lobster
emulsion finished with butter and crème fraiche and then intensely frothed.
Toasted ground mustard seeds and a tarragon sprig adourn the dish.
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Soup de vendangers(grape pickers soup): meat and veal shank, grappa, cloves,
turnips, potatoes, onions, carrots
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Finish soups with herbal tisanes: carrot with mint etcetera. The soups gain depth
of character and flavor by using tisanes to puree the vegetable base for the soups.
It is best to infuse spring water with the herbs and or spices so that nothing
detracts from the flavors being developed. Furthermore, the use of tisanes allows
a more intense layering of flavors in soups while keeping herbal notes fresh and
vibrant rather than flat and overcooked as can happen when using sachets. A side
note to these tisanes is that consomes and other soups which may become flat can
be rejuvenated by herb and spices sachets added to the soup during the heating
process.
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Bee pollen sour honey tuile with foie gras in lobster soup The bee pollen is
sprinkled on the top of a sour honey tuile along with fleur de sel and black
pepper. The use of bee pollen adds texture and a floral aroma to the tuile while
also carrying the concept of the honey to another level. The sour honey adds an
acidity to the tuile so that the dish does not become overly sweet. The sour
honey can be made in several ways. Yuzu, meyer lemon or a mixture of lemon and
lime juice are reduced with honey and a pinch of salt to create a sour honey with
an underlying citrus note. The dish itself is a ragout of sautéed foie gras, lobster
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knuckles, green tomato chutney, chives and topped with fried tomato leaves. This
ragout has a balance of sweet,sour, salty and bitter notes, and the tuile on top adds
both texture and picks up on the flavor profiles in the dish. The ragout is then
surrounded by lobster soup enriched with crème fraiche and butter.
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Spiced cheese straw as garnish to soup As both croutons and grilled cheese seem
to be married to or at least highly associated with soups, a quiet marriage of the
two becomes spiced cheese straws a crunchy flavorful accompaniment to many
soups, from truffle to tomato. In fact, once the soup is made, the flavors in the
straws can be tailored to the soup to create a more explosive dining experience.
•
oyster stew “en cocotte” with sea beans and sherry syrup: cook in pork bouillon
and serve with pied de porc and carrots “vichy”/make chowder with potatoes and
herbs/ coat with just warmed caviar cream/ make with cayenne like oyster bar
stew/ cooked in brown butter with lemon and shallots over crouton The key to
these dishes are not the ingredients and combinations, for we are aware there are
many, but rather that these one bite soups are served in the oyster shell with the
top of the shell placed back on top so as to present the diner with the daunting
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task of opening the oyster at the table. The truc is that the top comes right off
like the lid of a jewel box and inside lies a pristine oceanic jewel.
•
mushroom velouté with curry crisps and a confit of mushrooms The mushroom
veloute gains its name from its mouthfeel rather than its technical association with
a veloute. The base is made by sweating an onion and sliced button mushrooms
together until they are tender. At this point, a sachet of basil, allspice, fresh bay
leaf and black pepper is added, along with soy sauce. The pot is then covered and
simmered for twenty minutes. The soup is then turned off and allowed to rest
another ten minutes. The sachet is removed and the juices squeezed into the pot.
The mushroom base is then pureed with spring water to achieve the desired
consistency. The pureed soup is then strained and reserved. Meanwhile, crème
fraiche is seasoned with salt, cayenne and truffle oil. This will be used to enrich
the soup at the last moment before serving. The curry crisps are made with a
mixture of baked and tammised potatoes, flour, toasted curry powder, butter and
crème fraiche. The batter is smeared thinly on a sil pat and baked in a 350 degree
oven till golden brown. The mushroom confit is made by slowly cooking king
oyster mushrooms in basil and rosemary infused duck fat. The mushrooms are
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cooled in the fat, removed and placed in a clean container and covered with the fat.
Make sure any mushroom juices that were in the cooking vessel do not make it
into the storage container for they will cause the mushrooms to sour. When ready
to serve, the mushrooms are sliced lengthwise, seasoned with salt and pepper and
grilled. They are placed in the boul and the soup is poured around the outside.
The curry crisps are served on a side plate on top of a folded napkin. The soup is
finished with several drops of basil oil.
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zucchini soup tomato confit and basil The soup is made by taking the outer green
off of the zuchinni and slicing it thinly. It is then blanched through and shocked to
retain its color. Meanwhile an onion is sweated with nutmeg, allspice and grape
seed oil. When the onion is meltingly tender it is pureed with the zuchinni and
spring water. This base is then strained and reserved. Crème fraiche is seasoned
with cayenne and salt and reserved to enrich the finished soup. The tomato confit
is made by skinning and seeding roma tomatoes and then roasting them in a 200
degree oven with olive oil, garlic and basil until the tomatoes shrink and
concentrate in flavor. A final garnish for the soup is small zuchinni Parisians
sautéed in olive oil and finished with parmesan and baby basil leaves. This ragout
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then sits in the cradle of the confited tomatoe which the soup is then poured
around.
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red kuri squash with an apples and walnut strudel The soup base begins by
halving and seeding the squash and then placing two cloves, two allspice and a
quarter cinnamon stick under each half which has already been seasoned with salt.
These squash are arranged on a sheet pan and a quarter inch of water is poured
into the pan to first steam and then allow the squash to roast when the flavor
evaporates. While the squash are roasting, several bananas are simultaneously
roasted in their skins until they are melting. Also, while the fruits and vegetables
are in the oven, one large onion is sweated out till tender. When all the ingredients
are tender they are removed from their respective skins and placed in a pot and
covered with spring water. The soup base is then brought up to a boil and
simmered for twenty minutes. The soup is then allowed to rest for ten minutes
and then pureed and strained. When it is served it will be finished with butter.
For the savory apple struedel, granny smith apple wedges are sautéed with a diced
onion, butter, salt, pepper, raw sugar and bay leaf. They are deglazed with
Riesling and then chilled. To this base, fromage blanc is added to lightly bind the
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mixture. The struedel itself will be made from layers of phyllo brushed with
butter and seasoned with ground cinnamon, clove, allspice and cayenne. The
apple mixture will be placed in the center of the phyllo and a roulade will be
formed. At this point small marks should be made along the phyllo so that
individual orders can be easily portioned. The strudel should be baked in a 350
degree oven until golden and crispy, about twenty minutes. Use the strudel as a
gage for heating the soup, but remember the strudel benefits from resting about
five minutes after coming from the oven. Serve the soup in a delicate cup and the
strudel on the side. Garnish the soup with apple oil(extra virgin olive oil which
has been poured over apples for several weeks at least)
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double duck consommé with cracklin’ toast and foie gras The essence of roast
duck is made by using chicken stock to make a roast duck broth, which is then
poured over more roasted duck carcasses and simmered and strained. At this
point it is reduced to intensify its flavor and then seasoned with madiera and soy
sauce. The consommé is made by grinding duck legs, tomatoes, rosemary, meyer
lemon, chives, onion, carrots, lemongrass, ginger, egg shells and combining them
with frothed egg whites. The raft is stirred into the warm stock and gently
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simmered until clarity is achieved. The consommé is strained and tasted once
again for seasoning. The crackling toast is made by rendering the ducks skin until
crunchy, then straining and coarsely chopping. The toast is whole wheat and
smeared with foie gras mousse which is then seasoned with the cracklings and
black pepper. Again simplicity reigns. The soup is served in a small bowl sitting
on a napkin and two triangular toast points are to the upper left.
Cold Foie/Charcuterie
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Mustard and prune or mustard prunes vinegarete The prunes are brought up to a
simmer in a syrup containing sugar, salt, champagne vinegar, dried mustard and
black pepper. This process is repeated three times so that the syrup is able to
penetrate the cell walls of the prune. In this case it will be slightly more difficult
for the prune is a dehydrated plum and thus the cells have already been reduced in
size. Similarly this approach can be used on prune plums so that we begin with
an intact fruit which can then be transformed into mustard fruit. The mustard
prune will then act to balance and highlight both hot and cold foie gras
preparations. The sweet nature of the prunes is balanced by the acidity and heat
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in the mustard fruit prepertation which both accentuates the creamy decadent
nature of the foie gras and keeps it in check; the heat and acid foiling with the rich
foie.
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Pickled red and green grapes The red and green grapes are pickled separately to
preserve their own identity. We pickle the green grapes with lighter spices like
cardamom, bay leaf and white pepper along with champagne vinegar and white
wine. A touch of honey and white sugar along with salt round out the pickling
liquid. The liquid is brought to a simmer and tasted to make sure the flavors are
balanced. At this point it is cooked for ten minutes and then stained over the
green grapes and covered. This allows the grapes to pull in the flavors of the
pickle and vice versa. After a day or two the pickled grapes can be used. At this
point we strain off some of the pickling liquid and reduce it to a syrup in order to
add depth and character to the foie gras plate. With red greapes, we use darker
spices like:clove, cinnamon, black pepper, allspice, star anise, salt, molasses, red
wine vinegar and red wine. The technique for pickling the red grapes is the same
as with the green. These two pickled grapes are used in conjuction with each
other in hot or cold foie gras preparations as well as separately to highlight both
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hot and cold foie gras on one plate. With regards to the preparation of hot foie
gras and pickled grapes, the grapes and a touch of the pickling liquid can be added
to the pan at the end of searing to baste and glaze the foie as well as to gently
warm the grapes and to mary them with the flavors of the foie gras. At this point
fresh herbs can also be added to the pan to flavor the grapes and the foie gras.
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Foie gras with a casserole of sweet and sour vegetables and fruits: grapes, lardons,
apples, turnips, brussel sprouts Bacon lardons are carmelized in a sauté pan to
which we add, the above ingredients which have all been previously blanched or
poached with regards to the apples. The fruits and vegetables are then
caramelized in the bacon fat, at which point the ragout is drained, the fat poured
out and the pan deglazed with banyuls vinegar and banyuls wine. The vegetalbles
are added back to the pan and gently glazed in the wine syrup. Meanwhile, a
medallion of foie gras is seared on both sides so a rich caramelization is formed.
The foie gras is then remeoved from the pan and placed on the bed of vegetables
and placed in the oven briefly to marry the flavors. The pan is removed from the
oven, and the ragout and foie gras are plated. The syrup in the bottom of the pan
is emulsified with a touch of stock and then poured over the foie gras. The foie is
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garnished with sel gris, black pepper and lovage. A dish of raw grated apple,
turnip, brussel sprouts, grapes, lemon confit and rice wine vinegar is served on the
side to accentuate the dish and cut through the richness.
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Pot au feu terrine with oxtail aspic and crispy bone marrow garnish(can also
assemble in marrow bones) This terrine should use thai spices and heat to add
complexity to the simple rich dish. Furthermore, large pieces of smoked bone
marrow should be layered in the terrine for flavor, texture and visual appeal. The
aspic for this dish is the clarified by product of the braised oxtail used in the
terrine.
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Green tomato chutney with currants The currants should be plumped in warmed
calvados. The addition of the currants is both to enhance and highlight flavor as
well as to add a visual contrast to the chutney.
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Carrot jam, sour plum jam, tamarind jam These three jams all should have a slight
Indian spice flavor prophile. These jams are excellent condiments for chacouterie
and foie gras as well as roasted fish and meats.
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Savory tart tatins: quince, endive pumpkin
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Foie gras with kumquats and ginger and cucumber
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Gelée pasta sheets(use agar agar or pectin or gelatin): lobster stock based, foie
gras(papardelle or free form lasagna), aged vinegars and wines, vegetable juices,
duck stock wrapped around foie gras, fruit roll ups for cheese,
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Goose foie gras and red plum carpaccio and toasted clove
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Phyllo or bric dough crisps:powdered sugar, spices, foie or goose fat Savory
baklava
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Tea and armangac steaped prunes: serve with foie gras or ice cream
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Cook foie gras in 115 degree duck fat
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Cook foie gras in stock for approximately ninety seconds then shock and
retie(explain cleaning, seasoning, cooking, uses for scraps)
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Foie gras semi fredo with sour dried fruit center and toasted nut crust and gelée
top garnish with fleur de sel
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Foie gras with sweet and sour eggplant The baby eggplants are peeled, but the
top is left on to help retain both structure and identity of the eggplant. The
eggplant is then sliced in the manner of a whisk. The eggplants are then braised in
a white wine vinegar and honey solution flavored with salt, chinese red chile,
cinnamon, clove and ginger. The eggplant are cooked until tender but not mush
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and then cooled in the liquid so the flavors have time to mellow and absorb into
the eqqplant. The eggplant should have sweet, salty, bitter, sour and hot flavors.
The eggplant is then served with pan roasted foie gras which is laquered with a
mixture of hoisin sauce, tamari soy sauce and yuzu juice. The foie is seared and
patted dry and then brushed with this glaze. It is seved nestled next to the whisk
cut eggplant and its braising liquid. The dish is garnished with cucumber Parisians
and scallion white rounds tossed with japanese deep sea salt. Together the dish
combines all of the senses and harmony is reached.
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Foie gras with grains of paradise gastrique and lemon poppyseed crust
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Foie gras baked under oregano and lemon salt for foie gras oreganata
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Foie gras steamed in lettuce leaves
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Squash blossom and meyer lemon chutney
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Foie gras and game pie with huckleberry sauce
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Foie gras with savory praline
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Foie gras confit in zaatar oil or duck fat
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Skewer dried or semi dried fruits and use as center of foie gras torchone
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Foie gras spice: cayenne, nutmeg, ginger, allspice, corriander
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Foie gras larded with candied citrus
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Rhubarb chutney with angelica (source angelica and test recipe for candying and
preserving)Angelica is a member of the parsley family. It is cultivated for its
stalks which are candied. Its aromatic flavor and aroma and balances with the
fruity acidity of the rhubarb. This chutney will cut through the richness of the
foie gras while using an unusual or forgotten vegetable to compliment the dish.
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Fennel mustard fruits with foie gras
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Cranberry mustard fruits
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Pineapple mustard fruits
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Whole lobe of foie gras poached in vin santo(season foie one day before): pour hot
vin santo over the foie and cover and let cool naturally
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Foie gras torchone with rhubarb tea
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Foie gras torchone with pickled cherries
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Foie gras torchone with baby plums, mint and cloves
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Foie gras with ver jus pickled cherries, reduced liquid to syrup, black cherry black
pepper compote
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Foie gras with cocoa gelée (warm)
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Foie gras with zucchini bread, zucchini brunoise in gelée, pickled zucchini blossom
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Foie gras hot and cold: champagne grape gelée, white grape compote, pickled red
grapes: allspice, cinnamon, clove, peppercorn, red wine vinegar, caramel, ver jus:
reduce pickling liquid and add to a gastrique with more spices and veal stock for
sauce for hot foie gras: garnish—chives, fleur de sel and red clay salt
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Duck ala orange: foie gras with orange rind confit(cooked like mustard fruit),
pickled orange and orange gastrique
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Foie gras with lobster salt( reduce lobsters internal liquid till dry)
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Foie gras with banyuls, charred figs and arugala Hot foie gras with persimmons,
chestnuts glazed and toasted and shaved, vanilla honey and habanero gastrique
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Savory nestle crunch bar: salted pepitas, dark chocolate, sezchwaan pepper,
smoked chile with foie gras, lobster or sweetbreads
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Foie gras torchone on graham cracker crust topped with cocoa nib gelée( use flan
rings to set then punch out or make in battara sushi mold and slice
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Foie torchone with orange gelée and chopped chestnut crust duck ala orange
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Foie gras with lemon and garlic and roasted tomato
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Foie gras with spice walnuts
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Foie gras semi fredo
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Foie gras crème caramel with gastrique sauce
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Foie gras choid froid—torchone—with peach gelée and almond milk gelée on the
plates or cut in cubes or set on the foie itself
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Foie gras and gooseberries
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Foie gras and spiced daikon radish with shiso
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Foie gras with pommegranite gelée
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Foie gras with candied eggplant
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Foie gras with mead and green apple
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Foie gras hot and cold with rhubarb and pineapple
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Foie gras poached whole and served with corn consomme
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Foie gras with sweet and sour turnips
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Foie gras with graham crackers, Ibarra chocolate sauce, charred marshmallow
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Foie gras with passion fruit
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Steam foie gras for colorless approach to cooking
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Miso cured foie gras with ginger and spice(cure three days)
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Foie gras parfait with armangac gelée
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Foie gras mousse on savory shortbread topped with savory caramel window
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Foie gras torchone with pickled red grapes, baby sorrel salad, pine nut and
rosemary caramel, lemon zest and black pepper gastrique
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Strawberry caramel
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Shaved raw peach salad with sherry and almond oil with salt cured foie
gras(frozen then grated)
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Seville orange mustard fruits
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Raspberries and raspberry vinegar gastrique with foie gras
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Freeze whole fruit and then grate for quick ice
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Pain de epice sauce both savory and sweet
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Chutney: dates, almonds, lemon confit, ginger, sherry
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Hot and cold foie gras with lime juice and zest syrup and caramel glass
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Wasabi and foie gras with rare duck tar tar
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Telicherry pepper brioche for savory pain perdue or to use in small cubes to crust
fish, sweetbreads, foie gras, scallops
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Ragout: raisins, onions, turnips, apple and lime pickle
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Quince with Muscat de beaumes de venise with golden raisins and hazelnuts
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Boulabase froth with rabbit terrine(stuffed with lobster tail)
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Duck prosciutto
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Foie gras with sweet and sour green tomato, lemon confit and bay leaf infused
duck gastrique
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Squab prosciutto like duck prosciutto Foie gras sashimi with fleur de sel, black
pepper and habanero caramel sauce
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Savory foie gras clafoutis or fruit clafoutis topped with foie gras
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Salad of grilled cippolini onions and figs with foie gras and grilled brioche
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Four spices( ginger, white pepper, clove and nutmeg) with raisins and foie gras
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foie gras au torchone” with: seasonal fruit chutneys, sel gris and assorted
peppers/ pickled watermelon and mustard seed/ quince and habañero chile/ green
papaya and toasted clove/ green apple and spiced ginger gelée/ tea and armagnac
soaked prunes/ pineapple and grains of paradise/ dried apricots and sauternes
gelée/ local grapes and fresh bay syrup
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Foie gras au torchone with cherries: pickled, jam, sauce
Pasta: Stuffed, tagliatelle, risotto, lasagna
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sautéed sea urchin with chile peppers and oregano
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broiled nantucket bay scallops with tagliatelle and saffron
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Temaki gold risotto with: bacon fondue, sea urchin and shiso fondue, multi clam or
just white clam ragu
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Frog leg ravioli garlic cream, parsley puree, frog leg fondue and parmesan
•
Frog legs with lemon taglietelle
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Smoked salmon with lemon taglietelle and dill
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Ravioli with ricotta, spinach, proscutto and egg yolk with brown sage,nutmeg
butter emulsion
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Quail egg yolk ravioli with caviar sauce
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Crème fraiche based froths for risotto or sauces: reduce chicken stock, then add
crème fraiche, then add flavoring—pesto, arugala pesto, meyer lemon, black
truffles, brown butter, sage-- and froth with touch of butter(note keep thinner for
froths)
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White clam lasagna: start with a large square of pasta and garnish half, then fold in
half and garnish half again, finally top with more ragu and gremolata bread crumbs
and parmesan and gratinee apply to other ragus: cauliflower red onion and caviar,
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sweet maine shrimp, sea urchin vermouth hot chile oregano and lemon, veal and
prosciutto, oxtail and horseradish, snails and Serrano ham, frog legs, roasted
tomato and fresh mozzarella, fresh herbs and teleggio, white truffle, parmesan and
quail egg, black truffle and asiago
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Parmesan risotto with ragu’s served separately and spooned on tableside:frog
leg(l.zest, parsley, capers, marjoram), cacciucco, braised veal, black truffle, sweet
breads, spring vegetables, snails, clams, lobster
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Note: use white wine in pasta dough to retain chew
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Homemade fettucine with pigs ear chiffonade, black truffles(serve with fish)
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Celery root agnolotti with: crab ragu, black truffle, duck and apple
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Double stuffed ravioli: two fillings in one ravioli
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Bottarga and orange shaved over pasta
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Sea urchin with crosnes and cavatelli
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Potato agnolotti with dill sauce, cucumber and smoked salmon Whole wheat flour
pasta sheets with: black truffle, ham and gruyere fondue
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Pasta with crab ragu: crème fraiche, ichimi chile mix, clam broth and crystal hot
sauce
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Pasta with raw lobster roe which turns red when cooked
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Sheeps milk gnocchi with lettuce sauce, pancetta, pan drippings
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Tagliardi pasta with spot prawns, fresh curry leaves and chickpeas: butter, caper,
garlic, anchovy, cherry peppers, spot prawns, chickpeas, white wine, chicken
glace, tagliarde(white wine and flour based pasta)
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Classical pasta combinations made with tappiocca pearls
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Taro root mousseline with free form ravioli and black truffle infusion
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Soba noodle ratio: two parts wheat flour to eight parts buckwheat flour
•
Quail egg yolk ravioli with matsutake mushroom bouillon, leeks and truffles
•
Egg yolk taglietelle: forty five yolks to one kilogram of flour and some evo
•
Potato agnolotti with peas, morels, pea froth and parmesan broth
•
Bean curd linguine with sea urchin sauce Roast and braise veal shanks with fresh
taglietell
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Kalijiri rice risotto, parsley puree, lemon confit capers and green olive
•
Taglietelle with parmesan and truffles on black truffle puree and quail egg
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Herb filled flat ravioli
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Black truffle, Serrano ham and chive fondue with chive pasta and quail egg
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Creamed smoked tomato agnolotti(mascarpone, smoked tomato fondue, orange,
lemon zest, crystal, black pepper): basil butter emulsion, red onion brunoise,
banyuls vinegar monte, baby basil and grated caprinho cheese
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Frog leg ravioli with creamed parsley and lemon confit
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Pasta with mustard herbs and sweetbreads
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Clams casino: agnolotti or make cake for fish dish
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Snow crab and sweet potato agnolotti
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Goose or goose foie gras with noodles because they are a traditional fattening
agent
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Three clam ragu with potato agnolotti and shiso
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Potato agnolotti with choucroute sauce and pig foot fondue
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Black olives and clams with lemon confit and garlic
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Treat farro like risotto and serve with seafood
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Cream of wheat cooked like polenta and served savory or sweet
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Cocks combs with soy sauce Black olive and fresh goat cheese agnolotti with
tomato tarragon ragu, green olivea and arugala sauce(use multiple olives in sauce to
highlight flavors and colors)
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Sweet shrimp with winter watercress, white polenta and zucchini
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Semolina polenta use in isi canister
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Use cooked polenta and ground risotto for agnolotti fillings
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Mousserons(must remove bitter stem) simmered in beur monte with parmesan
risotto
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Black truffle cannelloni(filling: mascarpone, ricotta, egg yolk, truffle, and brown
butter) top with shaved black truffles and sauce perigord [set three quail egg yolks
in each cannelloni so that they burst when cut into]
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Sea urchin risotto made with temaki gold rice
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Raviolo is singular for ravioli
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La ratte potato agnolotti with mascarpone, and perigord truffle sauce
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Polenta with sweet maine shrimp and black truffle fondue
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Caraway potato gnocchi with pastrami cured tongue, mustard sauce and sauce
gribiche with ketchup Crab or lobster with a gratin of crozettes: fold in sea urchin
chanterelles and mussel sabayon
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Ricotta gnocchi with rabbit and game gravies
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Squab leg bolagnase with gnocchi( legs, liver, neck and gizzard)
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Orzo and crab bisque gratin with blue crab, asparagus and veal jus
•
Ravioli on bed of arugala: dress tableside with evo, sheepsmilk cheese, black
pepper, fleur de sel, (smashed together with a fork)moretum
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Quail with bacon emulsion, soy balsamic marinade and cannelini bean agnolotti
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Canelloni with cepe and walnut marmalade, brown butter sabayon and shaved
white truffles
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Cassolet of lobster mushrooms and ricotta gnocchi
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Pasta terrine: slice and sauté
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Cardoon gratin with parmesan and truffles
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Bone marrow ravioli with caviar sauce
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Pea agnolotti with lettuce, mint, onions, country ham(make sauce like chipped
beef)
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Duck egg yolk taglietelle or sheets with: caviar, foie gras froth, duck proscutto
•
Pasta carbonara with quail egg served in egg cup
•
Open faced cauliflower ravioli with caviar crust Nantucket bay scallops with fresh
taglietelle and: bacon emulsion with lemon confit, black truffles with evo and
310
parmesan, chestnuts with white truffles parmesan and brown butter, lime pickle
with swiss chard and bacon emulsion
•
Shaved calamari taglietelle tossed with lemon taglietelle with sea urchin or caviar
•
Use gelatinized sauce perigord to fill pastas and pies to make liquid filled
•
Make roles of pasta pinched on one end to use with braises or ragouts
•
Crabmeat tortellini
•
Razor or other clam ravioli
•
Dried mushrooms(morels or porcini) in beurre monte to hold agnolotti or as
fondue
•
Flavors: white truffle with brown butter and black truffles with evo
•
Globe basil and corn ragu with corn agnolotti
•
Store black or white truffles in cheese cloth: serve with soft polenta and baked egg
yolk or perhaps gratinee polenta over an egg yolk, egg yolk tagietelle with
parmesan and nutmeg
•
Yukon gold potato ravioli with fricassee of organic potatoes and truffles
•
Squid ink agnolotte:baby squid rings with tomato and cilantro
311
•
Aged asiago cheese with risotto Taleggio and robiola ravioli
•
White bean agnolotti with duck glace, tomato concasse, persillade and sautéed foie
gras
•
Finish risotto with lemon zest and brown butter
•
Dandelion green ravioli with feta, mint, oregano and lemon
•
Braised calamari stuffed agnolotti(use squid ink) topped with quickly seared
calamari topped with pico de gallo, evo and cilantro
•
Tagliatelle with “oreilles de cochon” and oregano
•
Parmesan risotto with: frog leg and caper ragout/ cacciucco/ Bolognese/ cauliflower
with herbs and red chile / black truffle/ forest mushroom/ baby vegetables/ lobster
with bay leaf / “langoustines” with garlic and sorrel/ braised garlic and onions/ red
wine braised oxtail/ rabbit with carrots and sage
•
Fingerling potato agnolotti with creme fraiche and bacon
•
Agnolotti with fingerling potatoes, tomato, parmesan
Light Fish or braised: shell fish, scallop, lobster, frog legs
•
Black truffle gribiche use duck eggs to make richer and serve with poached fish
312
•
Use gnocchi(potato, ricotta, polenta), ravioli, orichetti to support dishes
•
Savory bavaarois, chiboust, pastry cream(cheese, game or seafood stock based),
streudel: bacon, crab, doughnuts: potato
•
Pigs ears with lobster knuckles, corn and chanterelles
•
Varieties of lobster and fish sauces: champagne, Americane
•
Bone marrow fritters with bordelaise sauce
•
Fish with bacon, horseradish, soy and cilantro
•
Lobster mushrooms and apples
•
Potato foam with caviar and cod(infuse with horseradish)
•
Seared tuna with matsutake mushrooms
•
Confti baby calamari then grill
•
Mustard and prune or mustard prunes vinnaigrtette
•
Lobster with potato ravioli, dill sauce, cucumber and pickled mustard seeds
•
Lobster blanquette with crème faiche, lettuce chiffonade, curry/paprika emulsion,
potatoes, turnips and dark fried shallots
•
Scallops with foie gras cromesquis(think squares and circles) with port sauce and
mustard sauce
313
•
Snails rockefeller
•
Frog legs with wild watercress or sorrel and caviar
•
Slow cooked salmon larded with black truffle butte
•
Cucumber and dill hollandaise
•
Lobster with ravioli:sweetbread, cauliflower, pumpkin, onion, sweet potato
•
Fish with beets, ginger and horseradish
•
Blanquette of frog legs with roast garlic liquid cromesquis
•
Green tomato chutney with currants
•
Carrot jam, sour plum jam, tamarind jam
•
Herb sauces: reduce chicken stock to glace, add crème fraiche and reduce till nape.
Chill then puree with blanched herb. Strain. When heating finish with a touch of
butter
•
Lobster with horseradish emulsion(cooked eggs, crème fraiche, horseradish,
tobasco, water and white pepper)
•
Seared scallop with oxtail
•
Just seared tuna with asian béarnaise:yuzu, soy, ginger, garlic, jalapeno, star anise
and cilantro
314
•
Spaetzle with fondue of ham hocks, black truffles and clove dust: use with fish
•
Marrow bone shepards pie
•
Chestnut jam
•
Apricot mustard fruits
•
Use anise hyssop to baste:turbot, squab, lobster
•
Candied lovage
•
Roasted fish and meats with peasant side dishes to utilize less expensive cuts of
meat: pot pie, shepards pie, blanquette, cassoulet, parmentier
•
Homemade ketchup with tamarind
•
Coffee cardamom sauce
•
Bone marrow beignets
•
Salsa Genovese: parsley, red wine, capers, garlic, bread crumbs, pine nuts, hard
boiled egg yolk, anchovy and green olives (salsa verde)
•
Butter poached lobster bake: potato gnocchi, clams lardoons, corn, basil, cilantro,
ginger, jalapeno, corn puree with lobster champagne emulsion
•
Black bass steamed with homemade tagliatelle and caviar sauce
•
Cognac and shrimp Lobster with white asparagus
315
•
Scallop with hot sauternes gelée, bitter orange and burnt orange dust
•
Lobster with fresh Brittany seaweed
•
Lobster with figs and bay leaf
•
Fava bean crusted lobster with mint, bacon, and baby spring onions
•
Scallops with guancialle, toasted garlic, spring onin and parsley
•
Glacage fish covered in flavored mayo: garnish like german potato salad
•
Sliced scallop wrapped in spring roll wrapper strips
•
Slow cooked salmon with parsley puree and carrots vichy
•
Glaze sturgeon with soy, ginger, rice vinegar, sesame oil
•
Lobster and pigs ears fradiablo(spicy)
•
Scallops on bed of pigs ears
•
Soak frog legs in buttermilk before frying
•
Lightly score scallops for texture and to capture sauce, bread with ground white
lentils and spice bread or lemon bread etc., or bread with small diced bread crumbs
•
Smokked salmon brandade
•
Brush fish(sardine, red mullet, cod) with light batter(chickpea, rice, chestnut) or
crust then broil
316
•
Alfonso olive and port sauce
•
Balsamic, soy, lobster stock and butter sauce
•
Watermelon radish broth with scallop
•
Broiled langostines with cauliflower puree and evo toasted almond crust and
meyer lemon emulsion
•
Potato “cakes” with sea urchin crème fraiche emulsion (curry oil)
•
Chinese mustard with fish, scallop, softshell, veal chop, rabbit
•
Scallops with quatre epices and lemon(mint)
•
Blanch artichokes like French fries in three hundred degree oil before finish frying
•
Ruby grapefruit marmalade with fish
•
Sweet red peppers with lobster Lobster with cocks combs and nutmeg
•
Langostine with watercress and pain de epice
•
Scallops with dates and grapefruit marmalade
•
Curry sauce with infusion of banana and apples
•
Gelée pasta sheets(use agar agar or pectin or gelatin): lobster stock based, foie
gras(papardelle or free form lasagna), aged vinegars and wines, vegetable juices,
duck stock wrapped around foie gras, fruit roll ups for cheese,
317
•
Haricot verts with walnuts and walnut vinaigrette
•
Confit potato slices in 175 degree clarified butter
•
Creamed cous cous with whipped ricotta and beur fondue
•
Use the leaves of plants to infuse sauces and ragu’s:walnut, cherry, lemon, lime
•
Pine cone or spruce blossom simple syrup or tisane
•
Grilled cheese with tomato and basil
•
Herb blossoms: parsley, dill, basil, chive
•
Confit figs in foie fat
•
Confit orange segments in vinegar balanced simple syrup then dry and concentrate
on sil pat in the oven
•
Ragu :capers, onion, lardoons, white wine and toasted almonds serve with:
sweetbreads or calves liver with cream and sherry vinegar, foie gras add olives
raisins and Indian spices, skate add currants, or crispy fish
•
Whole grain mustard crème fraiche “mousse”
•
Make dauphine potatoes in sheet pan to make thinner and more condensed
•
Salmi: red wine based rague with minced mushrooms, truffle and partially roasted
game bird or rabbit( serve with squab over pasta
318
•
Blanch and shock peeled pistachios to remove skin and thus get bright green sauce
•
Note: sliced almonds from cold in evo
•
Roasted red onion puree cooked in papillote
•
Piccalilli—highly seasoned relish made of cucumbers, tomato, peppers, onion,
sugar, vinegar and spices
•
Sheeps milk ricotta gnocchi: one pound ricotta, one ounce of parmesan, two extra
large eggs, one tablespoon of melted butter, two tablespoons of flour plus one cup
to coat gnocchi. Mix all ingredients together and let rest one hour. Shape gocchi,
coat in flour and cook
•
Cook tappiocca pearls in vinegar for an acidulated garnish(blanch pearls first)
•
Use gelatin sheets to hide something on a plate such that when a warm liquid is
poured on top the mystery is revealed
•
Eggplant fondue with butter and roasted garlic Old fashioned bouqet: borage,
purslane, dandelion greens, sow thistle
•
Butter poached pearl potatoes
•
Moretum: roman condiment made from pounded sheeps milk cheese, garlic, olive
oil, vinegar, celery leaves, rue, and coriander use as garnish for ravioli with arugala
319
•
Seville orange marmalade
•
Caper caramel
•
Use dried porcini mushrooms in braise to enrich flavor
•
Ricotta and potato gnocchi served with reduced braising juice or roasting juice
•
Minced edible lily bulb
•
Chestnuts with balsamic vinegar
•
Slow cooked salmon stuffed with caviar butter
•
Frog legs with mead sauce: sweet and sour with clove and honey
•
Broiled herring with mustard sauce, pigs trotter and lemon emulsion
•
Sole or other thin flat fish wrap around stuffing to form a cylinder then wrap in
plastic wrap and cook in low temperature water
•
Seabean fondue or mousseline with lobster
•
Gratin of crozzetti(buck wheat pasta) with sea urchin and honshimeji mushrooms
•
Roasted langostines with lemon oil, sorrel and artichoke ravioli
•
Poach salmon in 98-110 degree olive oil cook smaked salmon in 110 degree milk to
warm and preserve color
320
•
Lobster with agra dolce sauce or gelée with mint and arugala salad brunoise
vegetables and bacon
•
Make salads or terrines for cheeks
•
Bass cheeks: artichoke salad and truffle vinaigrette
•
Lobster with sauce hydromel, pears(puree, dice and chip) and roasted cipplolini
onions
•
Lobster with bordelaise and crispy bone marrow
•
Lobster coq au vin: with cocks combs, pearl onions, lardoons, red wine sauce
•
Lobster with summer minestrone garnish
•
Lobster sauce: paprika, red wine vinegar, lobster reduction and butter
•
Smoked salmon dip with French fries as garnish to slow cooked salmon
•
Ragu of frog legs, foie gras and curry with spiced acidulated spinach Lobster with
onion composition: ramp, pearls, Vidalia, cippolini
•
Honey and lime zest basted langostines
•
Lobster with mint sauce
•
Lobster with meat sauce(Italian gravy)
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•
Crust scallops or fish with thinly sliced or small diced bread: flour, egg, “crumb”
Vary the type of bread to suit individual dishes
•
Tarragon infused lobster beurre monte
•
Fry batter: two tablespoons of cornstarch, one cup ice water, one egg
•
Fish with sesame and butter emulsion
•
Roasted scallop with raddichio treviso with guanchale
•
Black bass with spinach, black and gold chanterelles, parsnip puree and mushroom
syrup
•
Technique spice crusts: grind breads or spices with white lentils(pain de epice,
gingerbread, zuchinni nutmeg bread)
•
Cauliflower crusted scallop or fish: blanch first then gind into crumb then flour,
egg and “crumb” (works with raw cauliflower as well
•
Pickled ramp beurre monte
•
Scallops with fresh pork belly and mustard sauce
•
Lobster with orange dust
•
Roasted langostines with bone marrow and clams
•
Sole glazed with sauternes and served with a golden raisin hash
322
•
Crispy calves feet with crayfish
•
Braise frog legs: dark chicken stock, garlic, lemon confit, oregano and white pepper
•
Savory or sweet beurre monte use to rehydrate dried fruits, mushrooms and
meats: raisins, apricots, prunes, cherries, currants, apples, porcini, morels,
Smithfield ham,
•
Seared scallop with tomato and onion salad: balsamic, basil, evo, red onion,
banyuls vinegar, blue cheese
•
Scallop with mustard greens, mustard seeds and mustard fruits
•
Lobster with chanterelles and togarishi Fluke or sole roulade stuffed with herb
butter and wrapped: pancetta, zucchini, jambuga, proscutto, ham
•
Use petite beignets as garnish for fish: chicken liver, foie gras cromesquis,
sweetbread, bone marrow, potato and caviar, potato and truffle
•
Cayenne pepper with seafood dishes( check espelette peper)
•
Hydromel: mixture of wine and honey and also fermented honey alone(became
called clare)
•
Nut emulsions as sauces: pistachio, chestnut, almond, pine nut
323
•
Balsamic stock: balsamic vinegar, honey, rosemary, thyme, bay leaf, ginger, salt,
allspice
•
Fava beans with tarragon beurre monte and mint
•
Cumin crusted lobster with jalapeno roasted porcini and rosemary oil(there are
three types of cumin:white, black which is milder and refined, and amber which is
common)
•
Oyster Rockefeller sauce: spinach, cream, bacon, onions, lemon, pernot, oyster
liquor sabayon
•
Mint dressing for lobster or scampi
•
Mint with split peas and ham
•
Lobster under a brick with duck prosciutto
•
Foie gras and scallops with ginger and quick pickled plums
•
Vegetables cooked in snail butter: parsley, garlic, lemon, minced snails, shallots,
minced bacon
•
Scallop en cocotte with potato mousseline and chive puree
•
Sole streudel(wrapped in phyllo) with sea bean sauce, lemon and herbs
•
Seared scallops with haricot verts, toasted almond crème fraiche and lemon confit
324
•
Calamari with curry leaf, green mango and pickled jalapeno
•
Watermelon rind mustard fruits with: sea scallop, Nantucket bay scallop, taylor
bay scallop
•
Scallops with pickled beets and horseradish
•
Single malt scotch and lobster sauce enriched with harissa(worcheshire) Note that
scallop roe changes from pale to orange as it gets closer to reproduction. The
pinker or more orange the roe, the sweeter the scallop(check)
•
Seared scallop with sweet and sour endive, cauliflower, almond and pancetta
lardoons
•
Scallop sauce: vermouth, shallots, caramelized scallop trimmings, truffle juice,
truffle trimmings, butter and white pepper
•
Scallops with oxalis and meyer lemon emulsion Make crust for fish from
homemade potato chips
•
Seared scallops with: fig jam, prosciutto, arugala, fig vinaigrette and one hundred
year old balsamic vinegar
•
Salsa verde and pickled ramp aioli(two sauces to garnish dish
•
Almond milk poached fish with potatoes cooked in crab or lobster emulsion
325
•
Saffron steamed fish
•
Lobster “sausage and pepper”: sage, fennel, peppercorns, crushed red pepper,
rosemary
•
Shrimp, langostines, lobster, wrapped in phyllo or crusted in phyllo shavings—
season: basil, truffle, lemon and caper paste
•
Marinated red onion, banyuls, evo, fleur de sel, blue cheese, tomatoes(salad base
for fish)
•
Cauliflower crusted scallop with black truffle
•
Scallop with sugared bacon, dill and lime
•
Scallop with soy, jalapeno, ginger and garlic
•
Scallop with Russian dressing, rye bread crouton dice crust, with sauerkraut and
diced tongue pastrami cured
•
Scallop or lobster with chanterelles a la greque
•
Scallop with corn emulsion, basil oil, fresh prosciutto, corn relish: vinegar with
sugar and basil and clove then add red onion, jalapeno, ginger, garlic, red pepper,
finish with green onion chiffonade, basil oil and black pepper
326
•
Use chiffonade of shiitake mushroom to crust: tuna, scallops, foie gras, hamachi,
sweetbreads
•
Dill and sea beans with lamb or lobster
•
Seared scallops with bacon vinaigrette, nasturtium leaves, roasted apple and onion
puree, apple chutney with jalapeno, ginger and shallots: garnish with black pepper
gastrique and lemon zest
•
Apricot kernels(almond flavor) with frog legs and garlic soup
•
Garlic froth topped with ground toasted almonds and orange dust with frog leg
ragu
•
Chestnut and cepe ragu
•
Hazelnut and string bean salad with roast garlic and scallops
•
Bitter orange and toasted almonds and paprika with: lobster, scallops,
sweetbreads
•
Pan roasted prosciutto and sage wrapped lobster tail(use a skewer to keep
straight) and stuff claws with proscuitto and sage and baste with herbs and butter
then deglaze pan with chicken jus for the ragu: rice beans, brunois, dark chicken
juice, jalapeno, chives, thyme, tomato concasse, mustard seeds and mustard greens
327
•
Lard lobster tails or tongues: truffles, citrus confit, cured meats, tongue in the case
of lobster, root vegetable
•
Butter poached fish: snapper or black bass
•
Red onion dust to garnish fish dishes
•
Lobster choucroute
•
Lobster with banyuls vinegar emulsion
•
Lobster with sauerkraut, dill sauce, cucumber, pickled mustard seed
•
Lobster with pigs foot ragu
•
Slow roasted salmon with scotch sabayon: smoked salmon dice and potato
gnocchi
•
Chorizo or tasso ham in ragus for fish
•
Fish with collard greens or kale
•
Frog legs with ketchup and eggs
•
Matsutake mushroom and lobster emulsion
•
Sandwich: lobster, truffle, porcini wrapped in bric dough and griddled
•
Lobster with sauternes and curry foam and sabayon
•
Lobster or turbot: medjool dates black truffle and cumin
328
•
Grate frozen bone marrow over fish dishes
•
Braised porcini with seared scallop, parmesan broth and curry oil
•
Basil and black truffle emulsion
•
Crayfish with beans, parmesan, walnuts and tasso ham
•
Potato, sage and bacon gratin or struedel or pot pie with fish or lobster
•
Fish and lobster a la orange with kumquats, Seville oranges and cippolini onions
•
Scallop with green tomato chutney, pain de epice, fried green tomatoes, orange
emulsion and warmed tomato confit
•
Baby bok choy with soy and honey
•
Slow cooked salmon with cauliflower (puree and florettes), sea urchin crushed red
pepper, capers, oregano, lemon, lemon confit and brown butter
•
Sauce: curry, honey, sesame seeds
•
Calabrezzi chile infused vinegar
•
Frog legs with broccoli and mushrooms
•
Spice sauce: shallots, raisins, red wine, tomato paste, cayenne, soy sauce, fish
fume, lobster stock, ras el hanout, sesame seeds
329
•
Dijonaise sauce with fish: turbot, St. Pierre serve with fava beans with mustard
seed aioli
•
Lobster with fava beans, bacon, dandelion greens
•
Almond and other nut consommé Fish with collard greens or creamed kale with
pinklewurst
•
Fish glaze: honey, cardamom, coriander, peppercorn, sherry vinegar, cilantro,
jalapeno, and toasted garlic
•
Steamed black bass on warm seaweed gelée with toasted shallot and chive crust
and with broth: soy, ginger, scallion, cilantro, toasted garlic
•
Brown butter nage with fish
•
Roasted scallop chowder en cocotte with thickened fish fume, crab meat, parsley,
bacon, leeks, and potato dice Langostines with almond caramel
•
Fish and their roe as sauce or garnish: tuna and bottarga, sturgeon and caviar,
salmon and caviar, trout and caviar
•
Scallop with ceasar dressing emulsion, lemon, capers and creamed parsley
•
Lobster and turnip gratin
•
Fish with horseradish, bacon, soy and cilantro
330
•
Langostines with wild celery and olives
•
Grilled lobster with white beans, braised leeks, pancetta, swiss chard and whole
grain mustard sabayon
•
Sorrel sauce: infuse chicken stock/crème fraiche reduction with sorrel and meyer
lemon then strain and froth with butter—garnish with baby sorrel or sorrel chif
•
Eel with dill and lime butter sauce with apples and walnuts
•
Eel glazed with: balsamic vinegar, soy ketchup and ginger
•
Eel with port wine, bacon miripoix and green peppercorns
•
Scallops with fricassee of fava beans, mint and bacon
•
Lobster with spicy artichokes and green olive butter
•
Tomato and gooseberry compote with fish
•
Brittany seaweed vinaigrette with lobster or scallops
•
Pan roasted lobster with fresh curry leaves and ginger lime pickle vinaigrette
•
Fish poached in almond milk with toasted almond crust and crab meat ravioli with
balsamic brown butter vinaigrette and basil or celery oil
•
Poach fish in old bay and onion seasoned evaporated milk
•
Use cayenne pepper with fish and foie gras particularly terrine
331
•
Layer herbs(fresh bay leaf, tarragon, thyme, rosemary) between fresh meat and
fish to permeate and marinade
•
Steam dates so they are easier to peel
•
Ferment chickpea batter overnight
•
Raisin sauce with vegetables
•
Bacon emulsion with crushed red pepper, allspice, thyme and rosemary
•
Creamed arugala or parsley
•
Dukkah: eight tablespoons sesame seeds, four tablespoons coriander seeds, three
tablespoons cumin seeds, one teaspoon of salt and one half a teaspoon or
pepper—toast each ingredient seperatly then grind and combine all ingredients
•
Use parsley stems in water instead of lemon juice in artichoke water
•
Deep fry soy beans
•
Braised endive hearts with golden raisin sauce
•
Use cheese grater for frozen soy sauce, bone marrow, flavored oil to shave over
dishes and sauces
•
Sear artichokes after braising to caramelize
•
Steam spring onions over aromatic broth then char grill
332
•
Roasted salsify with evo and black truffle
•
Savory “cakes” with fillings and flavorings as base for fish or meat: polenta or
potato with: salt cod, caviar butter, truffle, foie gras, sweet maine shrimp
•
Seared meats and fish with vinaigrette sauces
•
Indian spinach has jalapeno, ginger, garlic paste, toasted mustard seeds with
onions, garum masala tomato concasse lime and butter
•
Caraway with corn or cornmeal
•
Flavored butter strips to lard fish and meat: olive, dill, lemon, pesto, parsley,
garlic
•
Black truffle and celery root remoulade
•
Sirloin with bone marrow cappuccino
•
Smoked tomato cappuccino to garnish dish
•
Bacon and leek “cream” with meat and fish
•
Leek and caviar “emulsion” meat and fish
•
Carrots with onion seeds
•
Fish sauce base: vermouth, chicken jus an crème fraiche thickened with—bacon,
shallots, ginger, garlic, jalapeno and cilantro
333
•
Artichokes and braised cocks combs with black truffle, allspice, evo and Sicilian
pistachios
•
Cook foie gras mousse like crème brulee then caramelize and serve with beef or
fish dishes
•
Brunoise cilantro roots and to vegetable ragu
•
Technique: use metal spike down the center of animal and fish spinal cords to
split cleanly down the middle on the bone
•
Infuse sabayons with herbs
•
Date puree with fresh thyme and orange zest
•
Bean emulsions:cranberry, white bean, black bean, lentil du puy
•
Fingerling potatoes with tarragon, shallots, tomato fondue and lobster broth
•
Anchar masala: toasted mustard seeds and fenugreek Grains of paradise syrup:
one half a cup of water, three quarters of a cup of sugar, three quarters of a cup of
dry white wine, one quarter of a cup of chopped rosemary, one tablespoon of
chopped ginger, two teaspoons of crushed grains of paradise, two tablespoons of
balsamic vinegar—simmer together for ten minutes then adjust seasonings and
strain
334
•
Use cooked egg yolk to enrich savory vegetable cakes—roast garlic, turnip, carrot,
parsnip
•
Deep fry sea beans
•
Slow roast fish in butter then add mussel liquor, minced shallots, ginger and garlic
and braise fish then use liquid as sauce
•
Lobster and shrimp francaise with lemon and mustard
•
Rouget stuffed with bone marrow mousse
•
Black bass with potato salad and caviar sauce
•
Tomato and watermelon ragu with plums serve with scallops or calamari
•
Frog leg with fava bean puree and froth, morels, and meat jus
•
Snail fritters in tempura batter with nutmeg and rosemary(freeze flour for forty
five minutes before using to make better batter)
•
Lobster with ramps, ramp vichyssoise, pickled ramps
•
Lobster claw and knuckle meat ravioli with butter braised tail
•
Lobster with sweetbread ravioli, corn broth, basil and corn chutney
•
Crispy skate wing with cucumber and yoghurt salad Paprika roasted lobster with
parsley puree and garlic chips
335
•
Lobster with Indian spiced spinach Lobster roasted with bay leaf and thyme
Black sea bass with baby cilantro, opal basil, shiso, chive batons and vinaigrette
sauce: jalapeno brunoise, lemon zest, shallots, garlic, ginger, sesame and evo mix,
soy sauce and lemon juice
•
Scallops with palm sugar-fish sauce and lime juice gastrique served with long
beans, peanuts, coriander and tomato
•
Cuttlefish ragu with sour mangoes, pineapple, cucumber, green papaya, and
toasted sesame seeds; sauce: shrimp paste, tamarind, peanuts and soy
•
Bee pollen glazed scallop with caramelized endive Lobster with carrot
sabayon(star anise, clove, and sezchwaan peppercorns)
•
Verjus (traditionally the juice of unripe grapes and crab apples): two pounds of
green grapes—destalk, wash and dry then press through chinois and strain through
a jelly bag into sterilized jars and store for one month prior to use—serve with
goose, fish poultry
•
Pickled grapes: two pounds of grapes, one cup white wine vinegar, two thirds of a
cup of sugar, one teaspoon mustard seeds, one cinnamon stick, one teaspoon black
peppercorns, ginger, rosemary, thyme—wash grapes in salted water and place in
336
sterilized jars then dissolve sugar in vinegar and boil solids for two minutes then
pour over grapes and seal jar for four weeks prior to use
•
Sea bass with sea beans and crème fraiche
•
Scallop with horseradish emulsion( prepared horseradish, hard boiled eggs,
tobasco, crème fraiche, water, lemon juice, black pepper), cilantro and lemon
confit
•
Make blond cacciucco
•
Crab meat ravigote (aioli, parsley, capers, dried mustard and Dijon, horseradish,
pimento, chopped egg, lemon juice and zest, tobasco and crabmeat) with seared
scallops or sweatbreads
•
Slow cooked white salmon with ossetra caviar crust and cucumber crème fraiche
sauce
•
Lobster and foie gras with vanilla scented foie fat
•
Scalloped cabbage and caraway seeds with crispy black bass
•
Herb infused honey for fish glazes: rosemary, lavender, thyme, lemon verbena,
lemon balm
•
Lobster with cacciucco sauce enriched with toasted spices: cumin, coriander
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•
Chorizo with halibut
•
Lobster with sweet and sour turnips, ginger and orange
•
Frog leg fricassee with oyster mushrooms
•
Sauternes and nutmeg gelée with foie gras or scallops
•
Lemon tagietelle with clam ragu and ginger steamed black bass with basil or
parsley pesto sauce
•
Sturgeon with vodka, crème fraiche and caviar sauce Salmon confit with dill butter,
potato salad and baby watercress
•
Five spice frog legs with cumin vinaigrette, purslane, sour orange and habanero
•
Use vegetables in herb and spice oils to round out—curry: orange zest, apple,
turnip, bananna
•
Lightly poached fish in salted butter with champagne emulsion and shellfish stock
cooked potatoes
•
Lobster with soy, dates, ginger, tangerine zest, sherry reduction and chives
•
Cuttlefish with sauce ameicane and basil
•
Slow roasted fish in salt crust
•
Seared tuna with bottarga shavings, white bean ravioli and tomato vinaigrette
338
•
Seared scallop with almond and garlic puree, crème fraiche and sherry vinegar
glazed haricot vert, and a salad of fried shallots, lemon confit, fried parsley,
toasted garlic and toasted almonds
•
Roasted scallops with clam froth, chanterelles, zuchinni puree and Parisians and
basil
•
Salad of fresh figs with port gastrique and seared scallops
•
braised frog legs with sweet garlic and salt capers
•
Salmon confit with braised lettuce, white anchovies, grainy mustard
•
Lobster with smoked paprika, chanterelles, spinach
•
roasted carrots with persillade croutons
•
fennel puree with raisins and melted leeks
•
cranberry bean with brunoise vegetables and pancetta
•
red pepper and lemongrass with thai basil and fried eggplant
•
cauliflower with caramelized florets and caviar
•
cèpe with braised mushrooms and thyme
•
roasted onion with sage and squash
•
celery root with a red onion sofrito and veal foot ragout
339
•
potato and leek with caviar and potato chips
•
bacon with clam chowder ragout and parley puree
Roasted Fish
•
Crispy skate with raisins, turnips, fresh bacon
•
Turbot with ketchup, sweetbreads and sauerkraut
•
Cucumber and dill hollandaise
•
Use gnocchi(potato, ricotta, polenta), ravioli, orichetti to support dishes
•
Savory bavaarois, chiboust, pastry cream(cheese, game or seafood stock based),
streudel: bacon, crab, doughnuts: potato
•
Varieties of lobster and fish sauces: champagne, Americane
•
Bone marrow fritters with bordelaise sauce
•
Spanish ham—serrano—wrapped fish
•
Fish with bacon, horseradish, soy and cilantro
•
Roasted lobster with shortrib ravioli
•
Lobster mushrooms and apples
•
Mustard and prune or mustard prunes vinnaigrtette
340
•
Roasted cod or black cod with caviar and egg yolk sauce
•
Mackeral with gooseberries and bacon
•
Smoked trout: remoulade or brandade with roasted steelhead trout
•
Rouget with putanesca ragu
•
Fish with beets, ginger and horseradish
•
Green tomato chutney with currants
•
Brandade or crab or meat farce stuffed rigatoni with roasted cod (with fish use
caviar or “Louis” sauce
•
Carrot jam, sour plum jam, tamarind jam
•
Herb sauces: reduce chicken stock to glace, add crème fraiche and reduce till nape.
Chill then puree with blanched herb. Strain. When heating finish with a touch of
butter
•
Red snapper with mint and pink peppercorns
•
Spaetzle with fondue of ham hocks, black truffles and clove dust: use with fish
•
Rabbit and lobster roulade(whole roasted in caul fat)
•
Chestnut jam
•
Apricot mustard fruits
341
•
Use anise hyssop to baste:turbot, squab, lobster
•
Candied lovage
•
Roasted fish and meats with peasant side dishes to utilize less expensive cuts of
meat: pot pie, shepards pie, blanquette, cassoulet, parmentier
•
Homemade ketchup with tamarind
•
Coffee cardamom sauce
•
Bone marrow beignets
•
Salsa Genovese: parsley, red wine, capers, garlic, bread crumbs, pine nuts, hard
boiled egg yolk, anchovy and green olives (salsa verde)
•
Turbot pave with balsamic and honey
•
Eels (how to clean and cook)and oxtail or eel with red wine, bacon, onions and
balsamic
•
Nut crusted squid
•
Skate with horseradish, brown butter cocktail sauce
•
Pineapple rum mustard with skate and red pepper
•
Rouget with saffron emulsion and black olive “hash” or butter
342
•
Skate wing with oxtail and potato cube ravioli. Make silky potato puree, let set
overnight, cut into cubes, form ravioli around cube. Explore using potato
daupinoise as ravioli filling so that one has texture and the silky smooth. Also
explore using sweet potatoes as dauphine for ravioli.
•
Cod en papillote with rice paper and truffles(use other seasonings and orfish other
than truffle and cod as well Technique: roast cod on potato slices to prevent
coloring from bottom of pan(crust fish with puree of truffles, butter, mashed
potato
•
Turbot with pumpkin salsa
•
Shad roe(technique and ways to cook) with mustard sauce, chipped country ham
on toast
•
Eel with prunes and armangac laquer
•
Tangerine glazed fish Fish stuffed with compound butter with brunoise vegetables
or other more sold ingredients so as to baste and deposit within the fish
•
Clam or mussel liquor beurre fondue
•
Cook potatoes in shellfish butter Rouget with quatre epices
343
•
Sugar dredged fish: char in pan or broiler serve with sweet and sour sauce(mackerel
or salmon)
•
Sauce for fish: mussel fume with lemon confit or lime pickle and touch of butter
•
Bay leaf and olive basted rouget
•
Steelhead trout with horseradish emulsion, celery root remoulade and snoked tout
hash
•
Skate with pigs knuckle and sauce gribiche
•
Many clam stew: littlenecks, razor, cockles, surf, butter, red Vegetable ragu with
sauce bagna cauda: melted anchovy, blanched garlic, evo, butter
•
Emulsion for fish:chicken stock, butter, evo and finish with parmesan
•
Striped bass with mint or dill emulsion and glazed carrot
•
Turbot with chanterelles, spinach and 100 year old balsamic
•
Black bass and sweetbreads with eggplant fondue and mint oil
•
Skate with roast garlic and clams and toasted almond vinaigrette
•
Seared skate with fava bean gribiche
•
Curry sauce with infusion of banana and apples
344
•
Fresh bacon crusted scallop(use pork belly trim and chop like tar tar or hash) cook
in broiler
•
Strawberry papaya with fish
•
Crayfish ravioli with pork ravioli
•
Flavor combination: sour orange, mint, cilantro, green onion and Serrano ham
Haricot vert with warm anchovy aioli
•
Basil infused beurre monte to poach fish
•
Insert sturgeon with truffles or caviar butter or herb butter
•
Pickled sea bean beurre blanc with black bass or salmon Lobster and chanterelle
casoulet or gratinee with shiitake mushrooms
•
Five spice bread crumbs
•
Jurusalem artichokes with walnut oil
•
Blanch potato rounds first before using to make gallette crusts on fish
•
Condiment: mint, fava, anchovy, pesto for lamb or fish
•
Cod cheeks: with chowder sauce and brunoise with minced bacon
•
Sauce for fish: vermouth and shallot reduction then add crème fraiche and puree
with chives
345
•
Striped bass pissaldiere: onions, olives, anchovies, green onions, thyme, marjoram,
rosemary, tomatoes and bread crumbs (make ravioli or cake then use olives in
sauce)
•
Potatoes baked with evo, pancetta, onions, garlic, rosemary
•
Clams with broccoli, potatoes and lemon
•
Basil mashed potatoes with salad--spring onions, tomato concasse, red green and
yellow peppers, capers, lemon confit, minced anchovy and green and black olives
with evo and sherry vinegar—serve with rouget, skate, dourade, softshell crab,
crab fondue, and garnished with basil shallot balsamic vinaigrette and fried baby
basil leaves
•
Chorizo and tasso ham in ragu’s for fish dishes
•
Black cod with bacon, mustard and rosemary
•
Red mullet with jambuga and red wine sauce
•
Chickpea emulsion
•
Fish with pumpkin nutmeg emulsion and 100 year old balsamic
•
Skate with brown butter, shallots, lemon confit and juice, tomato concasse and
mint
346
•
Grilled potatoes with pepper and onion salad
•
Rst fish with whole cloves of smashed garlic and fresh herbs
•
Roasted salmon with organic potatoes with melted leeks, mustard sauce
•
Black cod: cook with or without skin(helps to marinate first) cook in gentle heat
to set like custard other wise collagen falls out—baste with rosemary
•
Red mullet with bottarga
•
Chermoula(spice paste)with steak tar tar: cumin, coriander, sweet paprika, gound
ginger, garlic, bullet chiles, lemon juice, evo(tomato paste is optional)
•
Harrisa: roasted red pepper, ten bullet chile, two cloves garlic, salt, cumin,
coriander, evo, rosemary
•
Squab with ras el hanout (morrocan house spice blend):seeds from six cardamom
pods, one half a teaspoon black pepper and one half a teaspoon of fennel seeds
toasted and crushed, one teaspoon ground cinnamon, one teaspoon ground
coriander, one teaspoon turmeric, one teaspoon cayenne, two teaspoons sweet
paprika, one teaspoon ground cumin, one teaspoon salt, a half a teaspoon of sugar,
a half a teaspoon of allspice and also nutmeg, cloves, chilli, rosebuds use mix in
red wine sauce
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•
Haricot verts with walnuts and walnut vinaigrette
•
Confit potato slices in 175 degree clarified butter
•
Creamed cous cous with whipped ricotta and beur fondue
•
Use the leaves of plants to infuse sauces and ragu’s:walnut, cherry, lemon, lime
•
Pine cone or spruce blossom simple syrup or tisane
•
Herb blossoms: parsley, dill, basil, chive
•
Confit figs in foie fat
•
Confit orange segments in vinegar balanced simple syrup then dry and concentrate
on sil pat in the oven
•
Ragu :capers, onion, lardoons, white wine and toasted almonds serve with:
sweetbreads or calves liver with cream and sherry vinegar, foie gras add olives
raisins and Indian spices, skate add currants, or crispy fish
•
Whole grain mustard crème fraiche “mousse”
•
Make dauphine potatoes in sheet pan to make thinner and more condensed
•
Salmi: red wine based rague with minced mushrooms, truffle and partially roasted
game bird or rabbit( serve with squab over pasta
•
Blanch and shock peeled pistachios to remove skin and thus get bright green sauce
348
•
Note: sliced almonds from cold in evo
•
Roasted red onion puree cooked in papillote
•
Piccalilli—highly seasoned relish made of cucumbers, tomato, peppers, onion,
sugar, vinegar and spices
•
Sheeps milk ricotta gnocchi: one pound ricotta, one ounce of parmesan, two extra
large eggs, one tablespoon of melted butter, two tablespoons of flour plus one cup
to coat gnocchi. Mix all ingredients together and let rest one hour. Shape gocchi,
coat in flour and cook
•
Cook tappiocca pearls in vinegar for an acidulated garnish(blanch pearls first)
•
Use gelatin sheets to hide something on a plate such that when a warm liquid is
poured on top the mystery is revealed
•
Eggplant fondue with butter and roasted garlic Old fashioned bouqet: borage,
purslane, dandelion greens, sow thistle
•
Butter poached pearl potatoes
•
Moretum: roman condiment made from pounded sheeps milk cheese, garlic, olive
oil, vinegar, celery leaves, rue, and coriander use as garnish for ravioli with arugala
•
Seville orange marmalade
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•
Caper caramel
•
Use dried porcini mushrooms in braise to enrich flavor
•
Ricotta and potato gnocchi served with reduced braising juice or roasting juice
•
Minced edible lily bulb
•
Chestnuts with balsamic vinegar
•
Savory or sweet beurre monte use to rehydrate dried fruits, mushrooms and
meats: raisins, apricots, prunes, cherries, currants, apples, porcini, morels,
Smithfield ham,
•
Monkfish agra dolce with eggplant capponata
•
Roasted fish with chorizo or tasso and roasted peppers
•
Fondue of onions, beans, bacon, and girolles
•
Finish beans or polenta with horseradish, mustard, or bone marrow
•
Creamed: spinach, parsley, watercress, mustard greens with lemon confit
•
Black bass with foie gras, truffles, cabbage and mustard
•
Broken vinaigrette: crumbled parmesan, soy, balsamic and red wine vinegars, red
onion, evo and finished with green onion chiffonade
•
Five spice vinaigrette with mango and snapper
350
•
Bacon and sage polenta with roasted fish
•
Black cod with smoked sablefish “hash”(explore other duets)
•
Slow cooked salmon with smoked salmon hash, cucumber spaghetti in vinaigrette,
fingerling potato salad with caviar, and bacon cilantro dressing
•
Zuchinini with mint and almond pesto
•
Fish broiled with soy, ginger and maple vinegar glaze with miso butter sauce
•
Fish cooked in toasted nut “milks”; almond, pine nut, pistachio, pumpkin seed,
walnut
•
Red snapper with tamarind barbeque sauce: ginger, honey, cumin, coriander,
cinnamon, allspice, mustard seed, cayenne, tamarind, palm sugar, champagne
vinegar, lemon, (lemon grass, toasted garlic)tomato, jalapeno
•
Cod with butter almond crust(almondine) and toasted garlic emulsion
•
Larded monkfish tail: truffles, frozen herb butter, lemon confit, bacon
•
Crispy skinned Spanish mackerel with pistachio emulsion and sweet potato and
bacon hash with minced red onions
•
Pommes de terre Savoyard: use stock instead of milk like dauphinoise
351
•
Meuretted: a general name for all wine sauces that are a base to burgundian
cooking(well spiced and flour thickened)
•
Turbot with chopped three minute egg, horseradish and brown butter
•
Daurade with green tomato chutney
•
Crab streudel to garnish fish dishes: ginger, sesame, tomato
•
Bacon streudel with fish, poultry or meat dishes
•
Arctic char with oxtail, crispy bone marrow and béarnaise sauce Sauce bourride:
fish sauce flavored with orange and finished with saffron aioli
•
Rouget with two tapenades, parsley puree, saffron emulsion, swiss chard pine nut
and golden raisin ravioli
•
Thai snapper with chile lime sauce, cilantro, sesame oil, crab mustard and toasted
cashew nuts
•
Choucroute with fish and juniper butter—riesling, white vinegar, shallots and
juniper Fish shanks made by trimming tail pieces and tieing then roasting and
braising: monkfish, black sea bass(steam then laquer), striped bass, cod or black
cod
352
•
Braised monkfish with onions, brown sugar, vinegar, black treacle, dark beer and
finished with mustard
•
Ketchup with soy, cumin, honey, cilantro, jalapeno
•
Finish fish sauces with fino sherry
•
Bee pollen and honey gastrique with yuzu and black cod
•
Dates with lime salt
•
Cod with banyuls vinaigrette and braised pig knuckle
•
Allspice honey gastrique for monkfish with green olives, lemon confit, cilantro
chiffonade, green chile
•
Turbot with Rockefeller sauce and oysters warmed in hollandaise sauce
•
Pork and clam stuffed calamari
•
Grainy mustard crème fraiche sauce with allspice and tobasco to serve with lamb,
scallops or cod
•
Crust fish with bric dough
•
Skate with sweet and sour turnips
•
Turbot with braised white asparagus and béarnaise sauce
•
Grind dried shrimp and use as seasoning salt
353
•
Monkfish agra dolce(jalapeno, soy, lime, sherry and red wine vinegar, caramel,
orange, rosemary and spice mix) with baby arugala, roasted rhubarb, cippolini
onions and oven concentrated green figs
•
Turbot with sauce choron(make spicy rich tomato fondue)
•
Turbot with caviar and cauliflower
•
Charred mackerel with green olives
•
Skate with cauliflower, morels and red orach
•
Flavored oils and butters poured over dishes to release aroma and flavor
•
Role striped bass in its skin and tie in place to get crispy skin all around—can also
stuff seasonings or purees under the skin (use trimmings for tar tar)
•
Slow roasted monkfish with thyme, butter and honey Black cod with black truffle
•
Duck fat roasted striped bass rolled in its skin first brushed with herbs and
prosciutto: serve with mussel broth and tagliardi
•
Skate with chanterelles and cauliflower
•
Black cod marinade: muscavado sugar, soy, lemon oil, herbs
•
Striped bass en papillote: gazpacho style, wild mushroom, pickled ramps and
mustard seeds
354
•
Tobasco emulsion
•
Roasted turbot with zucchini gratin:lemon zest, parsley, nutmeg, basil, parmesan
•
Bacon and olive tapenade
•
Striped bass with fava beans, curry roasted shiitake mushrooms, truffle emulsion
•
Turnip and cumin puree
•
Fennel gratin
•
Celery root gratin
•
Sear tomatoes first before roasting to concentrate flavors
•
Olive sauces and vinaigrettes: green olive butter, black olive butter, alfonso olive
with port
•
Foie gras and skate with savoy cabbage, bacon, ver jus, and raisins
•
Skate with capponata, arugala, ketchup emulsion and roasted peppers
•
Skate with roasted chanterelles and salsify batons
•
Flavored butter emulsion: soy, black olive, balsamic, ketchup, woscheshire, fish
sauce, tamarind, sea urchin, lobster roe
•
Fresh sunflower seed sauce with figs and sea bass
355
•
Seared tuna with apple compote and puree, cabbage triangles, charred cippolini
onions, glazed sweetbreads, chervil and clove dust
•
Layer herbs(fresh bay leaf, tarragon, thyme, rosemary) between fresh meat and
fish to permeate and marinade
•
Steam dates so they are easier to peel
•
Ferment chickpea batter overnight
•
Raisin sauce with vegetables
•
Bacon emulsion with crushed red pepper, allspice, thyme and rosemary
•
Creamed arugala or parsley
•
Dukkah: eight tablespoons sesame seeds, four tablespoons coriander seeds, three
tablespoons cumin seeds, one teaspoon of salt and one half a teaspoon or
pepper—toast each ingredient seperatly then grind and combine all ingredients
•
Use parsley stems in water instead of lemon juice in artichoke water
•
Deep fry soy beans
•
Braised endive hearts with golden raisin sauce
•
Use cheese grater for frozen soy sauce, bone marrow, flavored oil to shave over
dishes and sauces
356
•
Sear artichokes after braising to caramelize
•
Steam spring onions over aromatic broth then char grill
•
Roasted salsify with evo and black truffle
•
Savory “cakes” with fillings and flavorings as base for fish or meat: polenta or
potato with: salt cod, caviar butter, truffle, foie gras, sweet maine shrimp
•
Seared meats and fish with vinaigrette sauces
•
Indian spinach has jalapeno, ginger, garlic paste, toasted mustard seeds with
onions, garum masala tomato concasse lime and butter
•
Caraway with corn or cornmeal
•
Flavored butter strips to lard fish and meat: olive, dill, lemon, pesto, parsley,
garlic
•
Black truffle and celery root remoulade
•
Sirloin with bone marrow cappuccino
•
Smoked tomato cappuccino to garnish dish
•
Bacon and leek “cream” with meat and fish
•
Leek and caviar “emulsion” meat and fish
•
Carrots with onion seeds
357
•
Fish sauce base: vermouth, chicken jus an crème fraiche thickened with—bacon,
shallots, ginger, garlic, jalapeno and cilantro
•
Artichokes and braised cocks combs with black truffle, allspice, evo and Sicilian
pistachios
•
Cook foie gras mousse like crème brulee then caramelize and serve with beef or
fish dishes
•
Brunoise cilantro roots and to vegetable ragu
•
Technique: use metal spike down the center of animal and fish spinal cords to
split cleanly down the middle on the bone
•
Infuse sabayons with herbs
•
Date puree with fresh thyme and orange zest
•
Bean emulsions:cranberry, white bean, black bean, lentil du puy
•
Fingerling potatoes with tarragon, shallots, tomato fondue and lobster broth
•
Anchar masala: toasted mustard seeds and fenugreek Grains of paradise syrup:
one half a cup of water, three quarters of a cup of sugar, three quarters of a cup of
dry white wine, one quarter of a cup of chopped rosemary, one tablespoon of
chopped ginger, two teaspoons of crushed grains of paradise, two tablespoons of
358
balsamic vinegar—simmer together for ten minutes then adjust seasonings and
strain
•
Use cooked egg yolk to enrich savory vegetable cakes—roast garlic, turnip, carrot,
parsnip
•
Striped bass with foie poached figs and fig coffee bitter chocolate sauce
•
Make caramel with glucose and pectin to coat fish or game
•
Dry black trumpet mushrooms in oven then grind and use as a crust
•
Chickpea battered zucchini blossom
•
Caramel with hot sauace
•
Five spice braised endive
•
Herb beurre monte for basting fish and meats
•
Black treacle and soy with truffles or in braises
•
Use assorted compound butters as sauces: Colbert—lemon, parsley, nutmeg and
meat jus
•
Lard turbot: smoked salmon, prosciutto, bacon, pancetta Sole roulades wrapped in
phyllo dough and roasted: season or stuff with variable flavors
•
Bacon streudel to accompany fish dishes
359
•
Skate wing with pickled mustard seeds and black virgin sauce(beurre fondue with
brown butter and whip cream)
•
Spanish ham or prosciutto wrapped fish
•
Turbot with crispy bone marrow, cauliflower and grapefruit marmalade
•
Turbot with ginger and scallion sauce with sesame seed emulsion
•
Cod wrapped in bric dough with foie gras and truffles
•
Cod topped with sausage brioche crust
•
Skate with gooseberry ver jus sauce(sear skate then braise in liquid)
•
Grilled turbot with zuchinni puree, dill potatoes, spring onion salad and nutmeg
•
Crispy skinned turbot with Brittany seaweeds, dill, tomato, cucumber, mussel
emulsion and pickled mustard seeds
•
Roasted cod with braised leeks in lemon clam sauce:oregantata crumbs with bacon,
pepper brunoise and ginger
•
Horseradish red wine sauce for skate
•
Turbot with lemon and creamed swiss chard
•
Role out butter and herb crumbs for crusting fhish then freeze and cut into shapes
that fit the size of the fish
360
•
Smithfield ham with fish as sauce or in ragu(play off chipped beef on toast)
•
White salmon with bacon, lentils, ketchup, sauerkraut and relish
•
Crispy skin snapper with lemon confit, hollandaise and garlic chives
•
Stuffed monkfish tail larded with tapenade butter
•
Codfish with sherry syrup
•
Fish with bacon butter sauce, glazed cippolini onions and chefs salad
•
Curry leaf spice roasted(cumin, ajawaan, Aleppo pepper,) lobser tail or softshell
crab with green papaya chutney(ginger, jalapeno, red onion) finished with ripe
papaya, lobster emulsion or brown butter and lime pickle vinaigrette
•
For honey glazed codfish score first to develop texture
•
Duck fat poached cod with lobster and lettuce sauce
•
Skate wing with orange confit, fava bean gribiche and mint
•
Delicotta squash with fresh bay, vanilla, ginger and sezchwaan pepper with
lobster or turbot
•
Fish “shanks” made from the tails of small fish then tied roasted and
braised(perhaps wrap in caul fat)use cod, monkfish, black cod, striped bass
361
•
Roasted cod with red pepper broth(enrich with anchovies), chorizo, onion and
potatoes with lemon and pesto sauce(also works with frog legs)
•
Striped bass en croute with shiitake mushroom farce with tarragon, spiced
spinach, crawfish butter and morel ragu
•
Striped bass with sauce choron tomato fondue based with basil oil
•
Turbot or cod with sauce americane
•
Cucumber poached in beurre monte with seafood
•
Sweet apple compote with turnips, lardoons, laurel, roast garlic, mushrooms, sage
and thyme served with monkfish, cod, Chilean sea bass or scallops
•
Turbot filet with oyster mushroom crust and salsify puree Skate with diced
tongue, potato dice, capers, lemon segments and fleur de sel
•
Braised tongue with fish cheeks
•
Cut cubes of tuna by putting blood line down then cut widths and slice widths
into portions
•
Red wine braised fish with hollandaise mousseline
•
Duck fat poached halibut or striped bass with pork knuckle fondue(juniper, clove,
cinnamon, bay, onion, parsley, thyme, rosemary) with peas and onions
362
•
Crispy skinned salmon with sweet pea, bacon and onion ragu(garnish: mint
chiffonade, opal basil, micro greens)
•
Use ban saw to cut turbot, dover sole or fluke pave’s on the bone
•
Dover sole with Colbert butter(herbs, nutmeg, lemon juice, meat jus)
•
Skate with rhubarb and pineapple Tie everything Roasted fish with sage, saffron
and fresh tomatoes
•
Tie fish loins together
•
Monkfish and monkfish liver with fresh wasabi
•
Fish with meyer lemon sauce—potato and jambon de bayonne salad or hash with
red onions; or tomato and red onion salad with tomato fondue with capers, garlic
and anchovies in sauce choron
•
Tuna larded with ham or prosciutto
•
Tomato bread with anchovies, garlic and evo (pamb tomaquet) make into bread
pudding cakes then crust and serve with shrimp
•
Snapper or other carribean fishe with rum based sauce: allspice, cinnamon, bay
leaf, dry sherry, chicken stock
•
Monkfish americanne
363
•
Turbot with lemon confit and sea bean salad Polenta brandade cakes with cod
dishes
•
Crispy halibut with potato mousseline, sauce americane and lobster
•
Butterfly fish and stuff then wrap in rice paper and roast
•
Striped bass with ketchup soy emulsion and summer succotash: fava beans, corn,
roasted peppers, red onion dice
Offal, braised meat, hot foie gras
•
Veal cheeks with blue crab, bone marrow, curry
•
Lamb breast with rice beans, thyme
•
Use gnocchi(potato, ricotta, polenta), ravioli, orichetti to support dishes
•
Savory bavaarois, chiboust, pastry cream(cheese, game or seafood stock based),
streudel: bacon, crab, doughnuts: potato
•
Turnip aligote or gratin with sweetbread, bone marrow flan and veal breast
•
Bone marrow fritters with bordelaise sauce
•
Lobster mushrooms and apples
•
Mustard and prune or mustard prunes vinnaigrtette
364
•
Pickled red and green grapes
•
Duck jus finished with quince paste and diced quince
•
Foie gras with sweet and sour vegetables and fruits: grapes, lardons, apples,
turnips, brussel sprouts
•
Foie gras with roasted/braised rosemary scented pineapple(roast whole then
portion)
•
Lamb sweetbreads
•
Mitsuname(fruit soup) with hot foie gras: blood orange, tangerine, green onion,
ginger, plums, pineapple, cherry, peach, grapes, sesame seeds, lime jus, sake, yuzu
jus and zest, togarishi, edamame, rice vinegar
•
Green tomato chutney with currants
•
Carrot jam, sour plum jam, tamarind jam
•
Herb sauces: reduce chicken stock to glace, add crème fraiche and reduce till nape.
Chill then puree with blanched herb. Strain. When heating finish with a touch of
butter
•
Lamb tongue with raita
•
Foie gras with kumquats and ginger
365
•
Sweetbreads with clove oil
•
Pork cheeks with madiera sauce with woscheshire
•
Pork cheeks with truffles
•
Marrow bone shepards pie Chestnut jam
•
Apricot mustard fruits
•
Use anise hyssop to baste:turbot, squab, lobster
•
Candied lovage
•
Roasted fish and meats with peasant side dishes to utilize less expensive cuts of
meat: pot pie, shepards pie, blanquette, cassoulet, parmentier
•
Homemade ketchup with tamarind
•
Coffee cardamom sauce
•
Bone marrow beignets
•
Polenta with merguez sausage to serve with lamb dishes
•
Salsa Genovese: parsley, red wine, capers, garlic, bread crumbs, pine nuts, hard
boiled egg yolk, anchovy and green olives (salsa verde)
•
Truffade—fried potato cake mixed with cheese: make with fresh and aged cantal as
cheese course or garnish for meat
366
•
Curry sauce with infusion of banana and apples
•
Onion stew with sweetbreads Foie gras with Sicilian pistachios Braise leg of lamb
as a roulade then press and chill and cut into portions
•
Pig hock “cake” with toasted garlic and mustard as a base for pork loin or fish
dishes with lemon sage emulsion
•
Rigatoni “carbonara” stuffed with seasonings and served with fish or fresh bacon
•
Calves brains with lyonnaise potatoes, crispy chanterelles, cornichons, capers and
red onion(perhaps king oyster mushrooms and cabbage
•
Rice bean ragu with pigs trotter, balsamic, lemon, parsley
•
Braised short ribs: take halfway off the bone and then tie to bone for braising, then
cool and press and finally portion
•
Braised veal foot:then press into pave(battara sushi mold) portion into cubes and
either crisp in wondra or brush with mustard and pan fry
•
Pigs feet with jobs tears(pearl barley)
•
Tripe and pigs feet braised together in honey sherry vinegar gastrique(twelve
hours)
•
Roasted kidneys with sage butter and creamed spinach
367
•
Juniper scented sweetbreads with cabbage, bacon and pickled onions Duck or
fresh bacon with salpicon of celery and chestnuts
•
Venison or sweetbreads or scallops with silky apple or pear vinaigrette Crab and
sea urchin with veal cheeks
•
Battara sushi of pigs ears and layer with other seasoning, slice, bread and sear
•
Seared foie gras with calvados cream: reduce calvados to syrup then cool and
whip(may need to add gelatin and put in isi canister to make more stable)
•
Kobe beef oxtail: plum wine and sake marinated then finish with fresh wasabi
•
Bacon crusted pork chops: brunoise or strips start from raw (flour egg and crumb)
•
Mustard quince with: scallops, foie gras, game, sweetbreads
•
Tripe confit: cure first with oregano, salt, bay, pepper
•
Calves brain ravioli
•
Braised pigs head with sausage and peppers seasonings and flavors
•
Foie gras seared with mustard greens, quince chutney and quince consommé
•
Pickled green papaya chutney or ribbons
•
Sweetbread cassoulet with brioche crumb: make like parmentier with foamed
white bean puree
368
•
Fresh bacon with caviar and turnip emulsion
•
Calves head with nutmeg and mace flavors with oyster
•
Lamb rillette in terrine then slice into pave and wrap in caul fat and sear and glaze.
Also, wrap in phyllo or bric dough to make crispy crust
•
Nutmeg spaetzle with chantrelles
•
Shortribs with persimmon and habanero hot sauce with nutmeg
•
Haricot verts with walnuts and walnut vinaigrette
•
Confit potato slices in 175 degree clarified butter
•
Creamed cous cous with whipped ricotta and beur fondue
•
Use the leaves of plants to infuse sauces and ragu’s:walnut, cherry, lemon, lime
•
Pine cone or spruce blossom simple syrup or tisane
•
Grilled cheese with tomato and basil
•
Herb blossoms: parsley, dill, basil, chive
•
Confit figs in foie fat
•
Confit orange segments in vinegar balanced simple syrup then dry and concentrate
on sil pat in the oven
369
•
Ragu :capers, onion, lardoons, white wine and toasted almonds serve with:
sweetbreads or calves liver with cream and sherry vinegar, foie gras add olives
raisins and Indian spices, skate add currants, or crispy fish
•
Whole grain mustard crème fraiche “mousse”
•
Make dauphine potatoes in sheet pan to make thinner and more condensed
•
Salmi: red wine based rague with minced mushrooms, truffle and partially roasted
game bird or rabbit( serve with squab over pasta
•
Blanch and shock peeled pistachios to remove skin and thus get bright green sauce
•
Note: sliced almonds from cold in evo
•
Roasted red onion puree cooked in papillote
•
Piccalilli—highly seasoned relish made of cucumbers, tomato, peppers, onion,
sugar, vinegar and spices
•
Sheeps milk ricotta gnocchi: one pound ricotta, one ounce of parmesan, two extra
large eggs, one tablespoon of melted butter, two tablespoons of flour plus one cup
to coat gnocchi. Mix all ingredients together and let rest one hour. Shape gocchi,
coat in flour and cook
•
Cook tappiocca pearls in vinegar for an acidulated garnish(blanch pearls first)
370
•
Use gelatin sheets to hide something on a plate such that when a warm liquid is
poured on top the mystery is revealed
•
Eggplant fondue with butter and roasted garlic Old fashioned bouqet: borage,
purslane, dandelion greens, sow thistle
•
Butter poached pearl potatoes
•
Moretum: roman condiment made from pounded sheeps milk cheese, garlic, olive
oil, vinegar, celery leaves, rue, and coriander use as garnish for ravioli with arugala
•
Seville orange marmalade
•
Caper caramel
•
Use dried porcini mushrooms in braise to enrich flavor
•
Ricotta and potato gnocchi served with reduced braising juice or roasting juice
•
Minced edible lily bulb
•
Chestnuts with balsamic vinegar
•
Savory or sweet beurre monte use to rehydrate dried fruits, mushrooms and
meats: raisins, apricots, prunes, cherries, currants, apples, porcini, morels,
Smithfield ham,
•
Roasted calves brain with bacon and sauerkraut
371
•
Use acids in braising liquid to balance flavor
•
Marinate lamb shanks or breasts before braising
•
Sweetbreads with meyer lemon, mint and allspice chutney
•
Bright zucchini puree with sweetbread ravioli
•
Pig belly and trotter together with spaetzle and mustard
•
Sweetbreads with pain de epice
•
Tripe: blanch for thirty seconds in vinegared water before cooking, add calves foot
to cooking liquid for more gelatin—use tripe to enrich tomato fondue
•
Stuffed or larded veal tongue: truffles, pancetta, proscutto
•
Use cured meats (salumi) to garnish meat and fish dishes Pork and rice beans
•
Braised lamb ravioli with double lamb chop
•
Braise morels in chicken stock and butter with pinch of toasted curry and
thyme(roast morels first)
•
Soak tripe for two hours in salted water to firm up then cut
•
Sweetbreads with ginger sauce
•
Confit of morocan spiced lamb breast
•
Tarator sauce(Turkish): walnuts, garlic, oil Lebanese: pine nuts garlic, oil
372
•
Whole roasted foie gras en papillote(vanilla bean, star anise, pickled quince,
onions, lime segments, sezchwaan pepper, honey, ginger and allspice) with
pickled quince(clove, cinnamon, bay leaf, salt, sugar, cider vinegar, water, honey,
peppercorn, coriander, cardamom, allspice
•
Use bone marrow to finish bean and other vegetable ragus, sauces(béarnaise or
tomato) and fondue
•
Braised pig belly with green tomato chutney
•
Grill meat before braising
•
Petite bacon on the bone
•
Pastrami cured beef tongue Braised veal or lamb breast with basil oil and zucchini
ravioli: parmesan, sautéed zucchini, basil puree, white pepper, crème fraiche,
mascarpone
•
Short rib with salad: red onion, lime, cilantro, lime, evo, jalapeno, roasted red
peppers
•
Braised pigs ears or head with cockles: lemon confit, jalapeno, tomato concasse,
chives, cilantro
373
•
Foie gras en papillote with beets, rhubarb, cippolini onions, banyuls vinegar, pork
glaze, orange zest
•
Brain ravioli
•
Sweetbreads with basil pesto
•
Pickled corn with dated puree and foie gras Foie gras sauce with ginger and port
•
Date and lemon chutney served with brains and spinach:lemon flesh and zest
macerated with salt overnight. Then add garlic, lemon juice, cider vinegar, brown
sugar, ginger, cardamom seeds, coriander seeds, and chile flakes and simmer for
five minutes. Add dates and store six weeks before using
•
Steamed foie gras torchone
•
Tempura foie gras cubes
•
Foie gras, scallops or suckling pig with ambrosia salad
•
Shiitake mushroom crusted sweetbreads: flour, egg, crumb
•
Suckling pig pancetta
•
Savory clafoutis: rhubarb(must concentrate in the oven first), foie gras, truffle,
cheese
374
•
Bread confit of pig head Cumin and apple infused foie gras with butter poached
cabbage
•
Foie gras with pickled peaches, champagne peach gelée, and roasted peach puree
Papillotes or small pots of fruit and vegetables to accompany dishes: rhubarb,
green figs, cippolini onions, bacon fat, banyuls vinegar, chives, thyme, orange zest
•
Pork spice: rosemary, mustard seed, coriander seed, clove, cinnamon, allspice, star
anise, black pepper, fennel seed, (cumin)
•
Pork sauce: gastrique with sherry and red wine vinegar, rosemary, jalapeno,
orange, soy, ginger, cinnamon, pork confit juice, veal stock and banyuls vinegar to
balance
•
Pork braise: soy, veal stock, orange, jalapeno, ginger, fresh tomato
•
Savory caramel faux ravioli with foie filling, apple and turnip or carrot
Etuvee(braised): ragu of morels, crushed foie gras, calves foot jelly,
•
Tagletelle of braised rabbit belly Foie gras and lemon: confit, sauce, salt, zest and
segments
•
Foie gras with: bananas, thyme and rosemary or balsamic and cocoa
•
Bone marrow pithivier
375
•
Top bone marrow with puff pastry crust
•
Cap bone marrow with foil when roasting in the oven so they do not dry or crust
•
Bone marrow flan: eight eggs, 12.5 ounces milk, 12.5 ounces cream, four ounces of
bone marrow blanched, salt, pepper, Chinese red pepper
•
Sweetbreads with smoked paprika emulsion
•
Use super fine crumbs and spice dusts for gratins of foams and parmantiers
•
Puntarelle greens: remove leaves, cut off base separate stalks and julienne
•
Suckling pig with clams
•
Suckling pig with caviar in egg yolk sauce with lemon confit and brown butter
•
Pork confit with mint and cumin
•
Potatoes boulangerre with rosemary and lemon confit
•
Sauerkraut emulsion with sweetbreads
•
Lamb breast with pickled mustard seeds, sour plum puree and charred cippolini
onions
•
Vegetable purees to finish sauces or baby braises: red wine shallot, roasted shallot,
white wine shallot, roasted garlic, sweet garlic, white onion, roasted onion, carrot,
parsley, fennel
376
•
Sweetbreads with pear vinaigrette(slow roast pears and onions in papillote then
puree with champagne vinegar), pear chutney, pear bacon, pear dice with cabbage
and black truffle in beurre monte: garnish with baby rosemary and black pepper
•
Cure tongue like pancetta: butterfly, season, roll and tie
•
Five spice pigs trotter with persimmon hot sauce, toasted chestnuts and scallion
salad
•
Beef or veal tongue with sauce gribiche
•
Pork with pineapple, peppers, palm sugar, red onion, fish sauce Braised squab
meat with mustard spaetzle
•
Pigs ear and clam ragu
•
Slow roast pork shoulder for ten hours at 270 degrees
•
Sweetbreads with curry emulsion, sumac, bee pollen gastrique and golden raisins
•
Hot foie or sweetbreads with ginger ketchup emulsion and horizontal potato
galette
•
Aligote potato fritters or cakes with bacon tobasco crème fraiche sauce or apple
cider cumin caraway vinaigrette
•
Sweetbreads larded with candied orange zest and rosemary leaves
377
•
Pigs trotter roulade with collard green triangles Braised pig belly with egg yolk
sauce, cilantro, and pancetta
•
Sweetbread ragu with bone marrow flan and pickled ramps
•
Frog legs with white asparagus and sauce gribiche
•
Wild rice and bacon cake or risotto
•
Sweetbreads with salsa verde
•
Maple vinegar glazed short ribs with acorn squash puree, jalapeno and green
papaya
•
Watermelon and red onion gazpacho with watermelon rind mustard fruits
•
Sweetbreads with grilled eggplant and sherry vinegar
•
Ricotta gnocchi with zuchinni and chanterelles
•
Crispy veal feet with parmesan
•
Make herb vinaigrettes to nape
•
Rhubarb with pork chops and pork belly
•
Braised veal breast with crispy sweetbreads
•
Sweetbreads glazed with hot Vin Juane gelée
•
Pigs trotter and grits
378
•
Kobe beef end cuts: cheeks, short ribs, tongue, oxtail
•
Miso and sake marinated fresh bacon(soy, honey, vinegar, port, hot mustard,
ginger) with roasted baby bok choy and pickled eggplant
•
Braised cabbage and pickled jalapeno
•
Pork belly: braised then crisped with a ketchup, Roquefort, Russian dressing
•
Glazed pork belly with persimmon hot sauce
•
Tongue tonkatsu
•
Pastrami cure: coriander, yellow mustard, black pepper, fenugreek, minced ginger,
brown sugar, salt, garlic, nitrate(use on tuna as well)
•
Sweet and sour calves tongue
•
Add chestnuts to garbure: goose and pork confit, cabbage, potatoes, favas, peas,
beans
•
Lamb sweetbreads with: golden raisins, verjus, and peeled white grapes
•
Estoufat or estoufade—meaning anything cooked in a closed pot but refers to the
stewing liquid:lean beef, veal shank, marrow bones, bork cracklings, ham and meat
fat with carrots, onions, garlic and herbs
•
Navarin: use anchovies in braises
379
•
Lievre a la royale: hare’s heart, lung, liver, goose foie, bouillon soaked bread crums,
pork fat, onions, truffles, parsley, garlic and hares blood are cooked in an
earthenware dish in white wine—the sauce is finished with game bouillon,
armangac, truffles and the hares blood
•
Graisse Normande: an elaborate fat: melted pork and beef kidney fat flavored with
vegetables, herbs, salt and pepper
•
Braised pig cheeks with: shaved truffles and Jerusalem artichoke puree; spicy
clams and tagliatelle; apple sauce; Jerusalem artichoke gratin with clove dust,
serrono chile and gruyere; potato gnocchi; tonkatsu
•
Vin de paille: thick sweet wine from jura
•
Whole roasted foie gras with sour plum puree and melted onions
•
Hydromel—mead (raisins and bay)
•
Veal cheeks and palm style crab cakes
•
Sweetbreads with sweetbread: datenut, zuchinni, lemon, banana
•
Spice mix added to duck confit
•
Sweetbreads with spiced dates and roasted onion vinaigrette and a sherry vinegar
syrup
380
•
Milk poached sweetbreads
•
Sweetbreads with celery root, truffles, and artichokes garnished with pistachios
and coffee dust
•
Red wine and port braised tongue
•
Rabbit kidney stew with madiera, raisins, candy cap mushrooms, mustard,
parsley and beurre monte enriched swiss chard gratin
•
Pigs ears with wood ear mushrooms
•
Sweetbreads with fava and mint salad, bacon lardoons, pine nuts, pickled morel
rings and mint vinegar
•
White bean custard with pork shoulder confit: allspice, salt, sugar, bay leaf,
coriander, cumin, fennel, white black and sezchwaan peppercorns, paprika, ginger,
star anise, black and yellow mustard seeds, smoked Serrano chile, curry leaves and
cinnamon
•
Pork confit with cubes of roasted pineapple and prune sauce
•
Veal cheek or lobster with peaches, black pepper gelée, and champagne sauce
381
•
Sweetbreads with apple cider, crème fraiche and braising liquid as sauce(add
pineapple, red pepper and calvados)crust fish with toasted walnut, fried shallot,
ginger and chives with a ragu of green apple, ginger, shallots and jalapeno
•
Pigs foot mousse to stuff rigatoni: ricotta, bacon, garlic, thyme, braised pig foot
and jus, truffles or shiitatke
•
Spiced honey with glazed lamb sweetbreads: coriander, ginger, cinnamon, mace,
Sarawak pepper, vinegar
•
Foie gras with toasted sesame seeds citrus glaze with broccoli like general tsao’s
chicken(use fennel in the marmalade)
•
Beef with caraway in tar tar served with veal cheeks
•
Vitello tomato—braised veal cheek with tuna tar tar bound with traditional
tonnato sauce served on parsley and lemon salad
•
Pigs knuckle with lemon segments, lemon confit and parsley
•
Sweetbreads with grilled figs, seabeans and lemon
•
Sel epice: salt flavored with quatre epices(cinnamon, allspice, cloves, cardamom,
nutmeg, coriander, white pepper)
382
•
Braised veal cheeks with white asparagus, gremolata, parsley oil and mustard veal
emulsion
•
Spice mix for lamb or monkfish with pumpkin: clove, grains of paradise, coriander,
cinnamon, dried chiles, lemon zest
•
Boneless braised lamb shoulder with ragu and rack of lamb: Zinfandel red wine
marinade, seasoned with persillade; braise—garlic, juniper, rosemary, basil, bay,
thyme, mushrooms, parsley, miripoix, tomato, veal stock, brandy, pancetta and
pork skins for added gelatin
•
Use pork skins in braises to increase the amount of gelatin
•
Whole roasted boned rabbit shoulder stuffed with sweetbread farce and wrapped
in caul fat served with cumin carrots and caper raisin emulsion
•
White bean and black truffle cassoulet with evo
•
Braised pig belly(orange zest, sun dried tomato, rosemary, garlic, bay, thyme)
with orange glaze, rosemary polenta, French prunes and pickled cabbage
•
Sous vide of marinated puff ball mushrooms
•
Green olive polenta
•
Foie gras with lemon and black licorice
383
•
Sweetbreads with pistachios and sherry vinegar
•
Use veal tail in blanquette de veau
•
Tie oxtail medallions before braising then debone and wrap in caul fat—serve with
truffles and sweetbreads and meaty mushrooms
•
Roulades of beef tongue
•
Clove dusted sweet breads
•
Sage jelly with lamb sausage or carpaccio
•
Whole roasted foie gras with apple chutney, ginger apple jam, vanilla infused
calvados and melted shallots
•
Cardoon tart or gratin with shaved black truffle Salsify roasted in evo and butter,
basted with thyme and drained, then glazed with roasting jus
•
Curd cheese spaetzle: fromage blanc, quark, labna, ricotta
•
Paprika and tripe
•
Duchess legumes and vegetables(fold in eggs and parmesan) then brulee in oven:
favas, white beans, black beans, turnips
•
Coffee cardamom sauce(like Turkish coffee) with foie gras, squab or sweetbreads
and figs
384
•
Use dried porcini mushrooms in barigoule liquid
•
Foie gras grilled in grape leaf with lemon and ginger rice
•
Key lime pickles
•
Corn bread crusted foie gras or scallops
•
Marmalade of duck necks and bitter green apple
•
Suckling pig(confit body then debone and press, braise legs, stuff trotters and
head): with saffron and lemon/ ginger scallion and lemon/ baked in coca cola or
ginger ale with ginger and barbeque sauce/ stuffed with rosemary, garlic, orange,
balsamic vinegar, prosciutto and porcini/ sezchwaan roasted/ deep fried to make
golden with honey balsamic glaze/ serve with broccoli hash/ make ragu with shiso
lemon zest and pappardelle/ brushed with simple syrup and vinegar/ cedar smoke
with dark sugar and Japanese pepper/ green mango or papaya pickles and ripe
fruit glazes/ glacage with buffalo mozzarella/ with glazed endive and sweet potato
gratin/ with clam ragu/ grenadine or roses lime juice with sherry vinegar/ calamari
and squid ink/ celery and rhubarb chutney/ black truffle polenta/ ruby grapefruit
and ginger chutney
•
Sesame caramel gastrique
385
•
Green peppercorn caramel
•
Make three meat stocks: chicken feet, calves foot, pig feet Rabbit with cumin,
basil, chanterelles, zucchini, tomato petals(heart and giblet confit with cognac and
sage)
•
Butternut squash gratin with pepita crust, lime, pumpkin seed oil and
marshmallow
•
Savory steam pudding: foie gras, squash, potato, corn, ham, sweet potato
•
Cure pigs head like bacon or pancetta then make into chips
•
Calves brain with zucchini
•
Tabil(Tunisian spice mix[use for stewing swiss chard]):one and a half cups fresh
coriander, one tablespoon toasted and crushed caraway seeds, one red pepper
roasted and peeled, one half a head of garlic peeled, six bullet chiles deseeded and
minced, eighty milliliters of evo, allspice
•
Caramelize or candy fresh bacon in sugar in the raw
•
Finish sauces with quince paste
•
Layer herbs(fresh bay leaf, tarragon, thyme, rosemary) between fresh meat and
fish to permeate and marinade
386
•
Steam dates so they are easier to peel
•
Ferment chickpea batter overnight
•
Raisin sauce with vegetables
•
Bacon emulsion with crushed red pepper, allspice, thyme and rosemary
•
Creamed arugala or parsley
•
Dukkah: eight tablespoons sesame seeds, four tablespoons coriander seeds, three
tablespoons cumin seeds, one teaspoon of salt and one half a teaspoon or
pepper—toast each ingredient seperatly then grind and combine all ingredients
•
Use parsley stems in water instead of lemon juice in artichoke water
•
Deep fry soy beans
•
Braised endive hearts with golden raisin sauce
•
Use cheese grater for frozen soy sauce, bone marrow, flavored oil to shave over
dishes and sauces
•
Sear artichokes after braising to caramelize
•
Steam spring onions over aromatic broth then char grill
•
Roasted salsify with evo and black truffle
387
•
Savory “cakes” with fillings and flavorings as base for fish or meat: polenta or
potato with: salt cod, caviar butter, truffle, foie gras, sweet maine shrimp
•
Seared meats and fish with vinaigrette sauces
•
Indian spinach has jalapeno, ginger, garlic paste, toasted mustard seeds with
onions, garum masala tomato concasse lime and butter
•
Caraway with corn or cornmeal
•
Flavored butter strips to lard fish and meat: olive, dill, lemon, pesto, parsley,
garlic
•
Black truffle and celery root remoulade
•
Sirloin with bone marrow cappuccino
•
Smoked tomato cappuccino to garnish dish
•
Bacon and leek “cream” with meat and fish
•
Leek and caviar “emulsion” meat and fish
•
Carrots with onion seeds
•
Fish sauce base: vermouth, chicken jus an crème fraiche thickened with—bacon,
shallots, ginger, garlic, jalapeno and cilantro
388
•
Artichokes and braised cocks combs with black truffle, allspice, evo and Sicilian
pistachios
•
Cook foie gras mousse like crème brulee then caramelize and serve with beef or
fish dishes
•
Brunoise cilantro roots and to vegetable ragu
•
Technique: use metal spike down the center of animal and fish spinal cords to
split cleanly down the middle on the bone
•
Infuse sabayons with herbs
•
Date puree with fresh thyme and orange zest
•
Bean emulsions:cranberry, white bean, black bean, lentil du puy
•
Fingerling potatoes with tarragon, shallots, tomato fondue and lobster broth
•
Anchar masala: toasted mustard seeds and fenugreek Grains of paradise syrup:
one half a cup of water, three quarters of a cup of sugar, three quarters of a cup of
dry white wine, one quarter of a cup of chopped rosemary, one tablespoon of
chopped ginger, two teaspoons of crushed grains of paradise, two tablespoons of
balsamic vinegar—simmer together for ten minutes then adjust seasonings and
strain
389
•
Use cooked egg yolk to enrich savory vegetable cakes—roast garlic, turnip, carrot,
parsnip
•
Pineapple glazed sweetbreads with cabbage triangles
•
Pigs feet with sweet onion jam
•
Veal cheek with papaya puree, pickled green papaya and hot chile dust
•
Shad roe or sweetbreads wrapped in potato and bacon slices
•
Braised tongue parcels stuffed with sweetbreads, foie gras, oxtail, mustard greens
wrapped in caul fat
•
Pork belly with orange Muscat wine with a ragu of: apples, lovage, leeks and
pineapple(ragu will work with roasted fish)
•
Pork roasted in caul fat with flavored farce
•
Kidneys roasted with oregano
•
Pickled golden raisins with cauliflower and sweetbreads
•
Braised short ribs with black truffle polenta and a fricassee of fruits and vegetables
•
Braised and roasted sweetbreads with baby vegetables in cider broth
•
Oxtail wellington with celery and madeira
390
•
Seared foiegras: with oven concentrated fruits and vegetables with gastrique fruit
sauces/ blood orange/ grapefruit/ apple/ pineapple and red pepper/ key lime and
toasted pine nuts
•
braised oxtail with crispy bone marrow and horseradish “mousse”
Roasted meat or game
•
Squab with gnocchi bolognese, sage, broccoli rabe
•
Suckling pig with farro, beet greens, balsamic
•
Prime rib eye with potato puree, watercress, madiera
•
Use gnocchi(potato, ricotta, polenta), ravioli, orichetti to support dishes
•
Savory bavaarois, chiboust, pastry cream(cheese, game or seafood stock based),
streudel: bacon, crab, doughnuts: potato
•
Bone marrow fritters with bordelaise sauce
•
Lobster mushrooms and apples
•
Confit squab legs in foie gras fat
•
Mustard and prune or mustard prunes vinnaigrtette
•
Duck jus finished with quince paste and diced quince
391
•
Squab with toasted carrot cake, liver mousseline, caper raisin chutney and
tangerine reduction
•
Green tomato chutney with currants
•
Carrot jam, sour plum jam, tamarind jam
•
Savory tart tatins: quince, endive
•
Herb sauces: reduce chicken stock to glace, add crème fraiche and reduce till nape.
Chill then puree with blanched herb. Strain. When heating finish with a touch of
butter
•
Sauternes marinated squab with golden raisins
•
Veal chop with apple and chestnut ravioli
•
Rhubarb laquered squab
•
Pistachio nougat crusted squab with pickled kumquats and tangerine syrup
•
Grilled loin of rabbit with lemon sage glacage and rabbit ravioli
•
Squab francaise: add spices to batter and cook like pancake or use carrot cake
batter or parsnip spice batter
•
Squab and foie gras in cabbage with walnut dust, fleur de sel, cracked black pepper
•
Fresh wasabi with ribeye
392
•
Rabbit and lobster roulade(whole roasted in caul fat)
•
Marrow bone shepards pie Wagyu beef with grits and grilled porcini mushrooms
•
Truffade—fried potato cake mixed with cheese: make with fresh and aged cantal as
cheese course or garnish for meat
•
Chestnut jam
•
Roasted goose with liver ravioli, grapes, apples, mushrooms, tomatoes and cognac
•
Apricot mustard fruits
•
Use anise hyssop to baste:turbot, squab, lobster
•
Candied lovage
•
Roasted fish and meats with peasant side dishes to utilize less expensive cuts of
meat: pot pie, shepards pie, blanquette, cassoulet, parmentier
•
Homemade ketchup with tamarind
•
Coffee cardamom sauce
•
Bone marrow beignets
•
Polenta with merguez sausage to serve with lamb dishes
•
Rabbit with wild thyme and pine cones
•
Finish lamb sauces with brunoise of ratatouille
393
•
Salsa Genovese: parsley, red wine, capers, garlic, bread crumbs, pine nuts, hard
boiled egg yolk, anchovy and green olives (salsa verde)
•
Rabbit with anchovies and parmesan
•
Curry sauce with infusion of banana and apples
•
Haricot verts with walnuts and walnut vinaigrette
•
Confit potato slices in 175 degree clarified butter
•
Creamed cous cous with whipped ricotta and beur fondue
•
Use the leaves of plants to infuse sauces and ragu’s:walnut, cherry, lemon, lime
•
Pine cone or spruce blossom simple syrup or tisane
•
Grilled cheese with tomato and basil
•
Herb blossoms: parsley, dill, basil, chive
•
Confit figs in foie fat
•
Confit orange segments in vinegar balanced simple syrup then dry and concentrate
on sil pat in the oven
•
Ragu :capers, onion, lardoons, white wine and toasted almonds serve with:
sweetbreads or calves liver with cream and sherry vinegar, foie gras add olives
raisins and Indian spices, skate add currants, or crispy fish
394
•
Whole grain mustard crème fraiche “mousse”
•
Make dauphine potatoes in sheet pan to make thinner and more condensed
•
Salmi: red wine based rague with minced mushrooms, truffle and partially roasted
game bird or rabbit( serve with squab over pasta
•
Blanch and shock peeled pistachios to remove skin and thus get bright green sauce
•
Note: sliced almonds from cold in evo
•
Roasted red onion puree cooked in papillote
•
Piccalilli—highly seasoned relish made of cucumbers, tomato, peppers, onion,
sugar, vinegar and spices
•
Sheeps milk ricotta gnocchi: one pound ricotta, one ounce of parmesan, two extra
large eggs, one tablespoon of melted butter, two tablespoons of flour plus one cup
to coat gnocchi. Mix all ingredients together and let rest one hour. Shape gocchi,
coat in flour and cook
•
Cook tappiocca pearls in vinegar for an acidulated garnish(blanch pearls first)
•
Use gelatin sheets to hide something on a plate such that when a warm liquid is
poured on top the mystery is revealed
395
•
Eggplant fondue with butter and roasted garlic Old fashioned bouqet: borage,
purslane, dandelion greens, sow thistle
•
Butter poached pearl potatoes
•
Moretum: roman condiment made from pounded sheeps milk cheese, garlic, olive
oil, vinegar, celery leaves, rue, and coriander use as garnish for ravioli with arugala
•
Seville orange marmalade
•
Caper caramel
•
Use dried porcini mushrooms in braise to enrich flavor
•
Ricotta and potato gnocchi served with reduced braising juice or roasting juice
•
Minced edible lily bulb
•
Chestnuts with balsamic vinegar
•
Savory or sweet beurre monte use to rehydrate dried fruits, mushrooms and
meats: raisins, apricots, prunes, cherries, currants, apples, porcini, morels,
Smithfield ham,
•
Rabbit in brandy sauce with raisins and seared liver
•
Mix vinegar with blood to prevent curdling
•
Snail and bone marrow gratinnee in half of a marrow bone
396
•
Spaetzle with horseradish emulsion
•
Store finished sauces hot in covered deli containers with underliner to prevent
dripping and evaporation
•
Tangerine and grapefruit roasted suckling pig with soy, rice vinegar, ginger
reduction: turnips with nutmeg and grapefruit marmalade
•
Pork shoulder with quince , wild rice and roasting jus with cumin
•
Roasted or slow cooked game breast with leg meat salmi
•
Horseradish gremolata with lamb, lobster or beets
•
Use poultry poaching liquid to make frothed sauces
•
Chicken”kiev” with: truffle butter, ham butter, ham and cheese butter Make dried
fruit flavored butter for savories and sweets
•
Puree blanched vegetables with butter to make vegetable butter for larding or
basting
•
Garnish sirloin with steak tar tar vinaigrette: worstcheshire sauce, capers, chopped
egg, cornichons, onions, capers
•
Squab roasted under sugar in the raw crust
397
•
Use tempura batter for shallot rings: one yolk, one cup ice water, one cup cake
flour, two tablespoons cornstarch
•
Gratin of fiddlehead ferns
•
Panzelle( chickpea and water slurry):add boiling water and mix add toasted fennel
seeds and cook till gelatinous then spread on table. Slice and reserve then sauté or
deep fry
•
Black truffle polenta fries Suckling pig with lemon, honey, ginger, and zhoog:
seeds from four cardamom pods, one teaspoon black pepper, one teaspoon
caraway seeds, five bullet chiles, two cups fresh coriander, six cloves of garlic,
water and one tablespoon of evo—puree together
•
Sirloin with fresh wasabi
•
Bitter coffee and sweet date sauce
•
Lamb with quince and morrocan spices
•
Morrocan spiced squab with quince tart tatin
•
Finish vegetable ragouts with vinaigrette, or garnish plates with the addition of the
vinaigrette—balsamic: reduced balsamic, shallots, evo, butter, salt, pepper, herbs,
lemon
398
•
Rissole gnocchi in bacon fat
•
Arugala potato puree(make evo and arugala paste)
•
Venison double chop with braised belly parmentier
•
Basmati rice and butter chicken stock emulsion with shaved black truffles
•
Confit whole suckling pig in lard then remove bones and press. Glaze pig pave
with soy butter
•
Wrap loins of lamb with sweetbread farce in steamed portabello mushroom slices
•
Black pepper gastrique with squab
•
Lamb with rose olive sauce and olive oil smashed potatoes with caper and parsley
condiment
•
Baked en cocotte: potatoes, oven dried tomatoes, truffles, parmesan, evo, fleur de
sel, black pepper
•
Rabbit with mustard chive sauce, farce stuffed rigatoni, and mustard greens
•
Zuchinni with curry
•
Mole vinaigrette
•
Foie gras sauce(foie gras and its fat, shallots, sauternes) to bind green lentils finish
with chives and tomato
399
•
Rabbit with sauerkraut
•
Herb flavored fleur de sel: sage, rosemary, lemon, thyme, ginger
•
Suckling pig with sour orange, cilantro, soy, ginger, red pepper
•
Nutty chanterelles and corn with squab breast cooked in beurre monte with
spices—clove, anise, nutmeg, cinnamon, peppercorn—and finished with mint
•
Squab choucroute with smoked bean emulsion
•
White corn and bacon risotto cake
•
Duck with barbeque sauce
•
Cook squab or duck in one hundred and twenty degree spiced honey
•
Basted game with foie fat
•
Venison with cauliflower puree Sarladaise potatoes: crispy sautéed potatoes with
goose fat and truffles which are cooked in butter
•
Squab with apple stuffing or chestnut stuffing “cake” served with fall vegetable
ragu and braised leg
•
Broccoli and cheese: aligote potatoes with broccoli garninsh; or make broccoli
aligote Squab with celery leaf and rhubarb compote
•
Fresh wasabi and watercress sauce with duck, squab, tuna, oysters, turbot
400
•
Duck confit palmier
•
Aligote potato cakes
•
Pork or suckling pig with dirty rice
•
Rabbit with snails
•
Suckling pig with pomegranate sauce
•
Chick pea ragu—cumin, capers, garlic, anchovy, bacon, onion, peppers—served
with rabbit, pork or fish and topped with a roast garlic mousseline
•
Marinate game birds with pommegranite and use red wine gastrique to baste
•
Fresh wasabi dust with fish or rabbit
•
Fresh wasabi vinaigrette for saucing meat and fish
•
Fresh wasabi with wagyu beef and pineapple
•
Pumpkin cooked en papillote: bacon, garlic, evo, salt and pepper, butter and
nutmeg
•
Suckling pig(confit body then debone and press, braise legs, stuff trotters and
head): with saffron and lemon/ ginger scallion and lemon/ baked in coca cola or
ginger ale with ginger and barbeque sauce/ stuffed with rosemary, garlic, orange,
balsamic vinegar, prosciutto and porcini/ sezchwaan roasted/ deep fried to make
401
golden with honey balsamic glaze/ serve with broccoli hash/ make ragu with shiso
lemon zest and pappardelle/ brushed with simple syrup and vinegar/ cedar smoke
with dark sugar and Japanese pepper/ green mango or papaya pickles and ripe
fruit glazes/ glacage with buffalo mozzarella/ with glazed endive and sweet potato
gratin/ with clam ragu/ grenadine or roses lime juice with sherry vinegar/ calamari
and squid ink/ celery and rhubarb chutney/ black truffle polenta/ ruby grapefruit
and ginger chutney
•
Layer herbs(fresh bay leaf, tarragon, thyme, rosemary) between fresh meat and
fish to permeate and marinade
•
Steam dates so they are easier to peel
•
Ferment chickpea batter overnight
•
Raisin sauce with vegetables
•
Bacon emulsion with crushed red pepper, allspice, thyme and rosemary
•
Creamed arugala or parsley
•
Dukkah: eight tablespoons sesame seeds, four tablespoons coriander seeds, three
tablespoons cumin seeds, one teaspoon of salt and one half a teaspoon or
pepper—toast each ingredient seperatly then grind and combine all ingredients
402
•
Use parsley stems in water instead of lemon juice in artichoke water
•
Deep fry soy beans
•
Braised endive hearts with golden raisin sauce
•
Use cheese grater for frozen soy sauce, bone marrow, flavored oil to shave over
dishes and sauces
•
Sear artichokes after braising to caramelize
•
Steam spring onions over aromatic broth then char grill
•
Roasted salsify with evo and black truffle
•
Savory “cakes” with fillings and flavorings as base for fish or meat: polenta or
potato with: salt cod, caviar butter, truffle, foie gras, sweet maine shrimp
•
Seared meats and fish with vinaigrette sauces
•
Indian spinach has jalapeno, ginger, garlic paste, toasted mustard seeds with
onions, garum masala tomato concasse lime and butter
•
Caraway with corn or cornmeal
•
Flavored butter strips to lard fish and meat: olive, dill, lemon, pesto, parsley,
garlic
•
Black truffle and celery root remoulade
403
•
Sirloin with bone marrow cappuccino
•
Smoked tomato cappuccino to garnish dish
•
Bacon and leek “cream” with meat and fish
•
Leek and caviar “emulsion” meat and fish
•
Carrots with onion seeds
•
Fish sauce base: vermouth, chicken jus an crème fraiche thickened with—bacon,
shallots, ginger, garlic, jalapeno and cilantro
•
Artichokes and braised cocks combs with black truffle, allspice, evo and Sicilian
pistachios
•
Cook foie gras mousse like crème brulee then caramelize and serve with beef or
fish dishes
•
Brunoise cilantro roots and to vegetable ragu
•
Technique: use metal spike down the center of animal and fish spinal cords to
split cleanly down the middle on the bone
•
Infuse sabayons with herbs
•
Date puree with fresh thyme and orange zest
•
Bean emulsions:cranberry, white bean, black bean, lentil du puy
404
•
Fingerling potatoes with tarragon, shallots, tomato fondue and lobster broth
•
Anchar masala: toasted mustard seeds and fenugreek Grains of paradise syrup:
one half a cup of water, three quarters of a cup of sugar, three quarters of a cup of
dry white wine, one quarter of a cup of chopped rosemary, one tablespoon of
chopped ginger, two teaspoons of crushed grains of paradise, two tablespoons of
balsamic vinegar—simmer together for ten minutes then adjust seasonings and
strain
•
Use cooked egg yolk to enrich savory vegetable cakes—roast garlic, turnip, carrot,
parsnip
•
Pink peppercorn and rabbit
•
Whole roasted turnips larded with black truffle batons, bacon or flavored butter
sticks
•
Duck breast cooked in low temperature nut oils
•
Duck or squab with: Chinese cabbage, butter and truffles en cocotte
•
Duck or squab with lime zest, honey and mead
405
•
Cook pave of duck breast in 120 degree oil or duck fat( four paves per breast):
adjust garnish—hot or cold foie gras, duck liver dumplings, polenta with confit of
gizzard fondue(sauce of rum raisin gastrique)
•
Duck with sweet and sour eggplant
•
Pave of veal loin with sweetbread ravioli
•
Duck with pumpkin, honey, grapefruit and Indian spices
•
Meyer lemon marmalade
•
Venison chop with pumpkin ravioli(cinnamon and onions), port wine and hot
mustard
•
Lamb or fish with sweet potato ravioli, collard greens and black eyed peas
•
Duck with pancetta, cabbage, rosemary, and duck tongue confit
•
Rabbit with slow roasted beets, dill and orange dust crust
•
Stew of summer beans glazed in lamb jus with cippolini onions and green olives
•
Chicken or duck kiev with foie gras butter
•
Assiette of duck: braised leg, foie torchone, tongue confit, seared breast on toasted
corn muffin “cake” with tangerine preserves
406
•
Squab with prunes, fermented tea leaves and almonds(spiced with mace, malt
vinegar and allspice)
•
Roast veal shank with swiss chard gratin: light béchamel flavored with bay,
oregano, thyme, shallots, ginger, garlic, evo, pepper and gruyere; braised leaves
with bacon, ginger, shallots, jalapeno; blanched stems glazed in chicken jus—to
assemble mix leaves with béchamel then top with stems and glaze with a little
more béchamel and fine brioche crumbs
•
Lard meats with foie fat injections
•
Roasted veal shank with polenta
•
Veal chop with paprika and toasted almonds
•
Brown butter roasted chicken breast
•
Roasted rabbit loin with snail ravioli(use mascarpone) serve with garlic broth,
rosemary oil and red wine bone marrow sauce
•
Shallot cabernet reduction with soy, garlic, thyme, rosemary as a glaze for game
•
Squab with celery root gratin, truffle jus, foie gras, celery oil and candied celery
•
Veal medallions with sezchwan pepper and pumpkin confit
407
•
Veal wrapped in leaves then baked in salt(fig or walnut) with walnut, lemon or fig
compote
•
Sesame seed crusted veal(brush with: soy, garlic, honey, chicken jus, ginger, orange
zest, cayenne and jalapeno sauce) with matsutake mushroom bouillon with sherry
glaze, long beans
•
Venison medallions or squab with spiced eggplant: sugar syrup, garlic, ginger,
jalapeno, soy
•
Chicken or squab covered in mousse and wrapped in plastic wrap and poached in
duck fat. Once mousse sets, cover with crumbs and crisp
•
Cranberry bean and merguez sausage ravioli(cumin, paprika, garlic, ginger,
coriander, fennel, black pepper, and soy) serve with roasted lamb
•
Guinea hen stuffed with talegio and fontina with a truffle and herb salad
•
Parmesan crusted chicken breast(use ceasar paste to adhear parmesan crumbs)
•
Rabbit porterhouse with bacon emulsion, olives and fennel
•
Pave of strip loin(remove cap and fat then portion)
•
Sauce au chien: garlic, scallions, scotch bonnet, allspice, salt and pepper, lime juice
and zest, evo and boiling water
408
•
Duck poached in duck stock based beurre monte
•
Bone out and divide a 109 rib eye—portion different sections into different cuts
•
Morels with clove dust
•
Peaches and duck with eggplant tagine
•
Squab with honey and lime Squab with bitter chocolate and chocolate caramel
•
Loin of lamb confit cook in 120 degree duckfat: finish with mustard soy glaze then
roll in lemon confit persillade with horseradish, parsley and crumb
•
Squab with pumpkin, chocolate and spiced mole Venison with chanterelles, mint
and artichokes
•
Veal with caramelized citrus salad
•
Fig and almond conserve
•
Fig Jam: caramel, deglaze with red wine vinegar and red wine, and fig trimmings
lemon zest and thyme then season and reduce to syrup and stain over diced figs
•
Foie gras stuffed chicken breast poached in mild with rhubarb gastrique
•
Laquer for game: lime juice and palm sugar gastrique, ginger, Aleppo pepper,
grains of paradise, honey, black treacle
•
French fries with truffle aioli
409
•
Prunes(raisin) and plums(grape) with rabbit Veronique
•
Toasted clove oil
•
Torchone or nappa cabbage layered with moussse the rolled in foil, sliced, breaded
and seared
•
Square off pieces of meat before slicing (chops and loins)
•
Savory pastry cream(corn, herb, truffles, cheese) for: tartlets; filling profiteroles;
fried pastry cream
•
Venison with banana curry
Cheese
•
Gorgonzola dolce with an endive tart tatin
•
Brie de meaux with onion jam, jambon de bayonne, black pepper
•
Grafton 4 star cheddar with apples, cinnamon, arugula
•
Ragu of fruits and nuts to accompany cheese cooked in papillote(open tableside
and spoon around cheese)
•
Potato, proscutto and sheeps milk cheese terrine with grilled figs and black pepper
gastrique(use spice mix)
410
•
Pickled red and green grapes
•
Buttermilk crepes
•
Green tomato chutney with currants
•
Carrot jam, sour plum jam, tamarind jam
•
Cheese course: accompany with savory bread pudding or put cheesed in bread
pudding for cheese
•
Cheese course: Virginia ham and cheese sandwich
•
Truffade—fried potato cake mixed with cheese: make with fresh and aged cantal as
cheese course or garnish for meat
•
Black truffle financier to serve with soup or to use in a cheese course Zuchinni
veloute with caviar Savory crème caramel: truffle flan with veal demiglasse
gastrique, foie gras flan with banyuls gastrique
•
Grilled cheese with tomato and basil
•
Vacherin mont de or warmed in the oven and topped with shaved white truffles
•
Buffalo mozzarella sticks(cheese course)
•
Pave dauphinois with black truffle fondue and wet spiced walnuts
•
Shaved beets and shaved cheese with almond oil
411
•
Bacon crusted herbed goat cheese
•
Fruit and cheese gratin: Roquefort, candied hazelnuts, banyuls, black pepper
lemon thyme glaze
•
Lighten cheeses with whipped cream or whipped crème fraiche: brillat savarin,
Pierre Robert
•
Exploretaur and Yukon gold potato terrine served hot with a red wine and braised
onion jam Seckle pear pickles Fontina cheese crusted with chestnuts
•
Date nut bread with cheese
•
Cheeses :Tommette puy du for—smells of munster but more mellow,
Fougerous—creamy, salty, tangy
•
Epoisse with port cooked dried cherry tartlet, cherry syrup, walnut crust and dust
•
Goat cheese with quick pickled fennel, fennel oil, orange segment confit and orange
dust
•
Vacherin mont de or served a top vol au vant with cinnamon poached prunes and
baby greens
•
Tomato and mint tar tar with buffalo mozzarella
•
Pickled squash blossom with cheese course
412
•
Shaved aged goat cheese with quail egg, lardoons, frisee and country toast
•
Potato waffle for cheese course
•
Parmesan gelato with aged balsamic and chestnuts
•
Oven concentrated fuits: dust with powdered sugar and bake to focus flavor(plum,
fig, peach, apricot)
•
Strachinno cheese in lasagna, ravioli or as cheese course
•
Peaches and triple cream as cheese course
•
Fresh robiola cheesecake with sour blackberry sauce
•
Role whole boned and stuffed rabbit in caul fat and then truss. Roast on top of
the stove until internal temperature is 130 degrees—stuff: prosciutto or pancetta,
livers, kidney, sage and rosemary
•
Fromage blanc panna cotta Savory crumble with fruits and cheese
•
Itxassou cherries use with goat cheese
•
Cashew nuts and pears with St. Marcellin
•
Savory cheesecake with sherry vinegar glaze or gastrique
•
Bread pudding with liquid cheese center: blue, goat, triple cream
•
Prosciutto, sheeps milk cheese and potato terrine with arugala salad
413
•
Chestnut crusted fresh robiola with persimmon sauce and salad Figs with sour
cream and orange zest with sheeps milk cheese Cheese course with red grapes in
armangac: four and a half cups of brown sugar, two cups of water, six cloves, two
cinnamon sticks, two limes sliced, three cups of grapes, two tablespoons of
preserved ginger, two to three cups of armangac and salt and pepper—simmer
ingredients till sugar dissolves then add grapes and poach for three minutes then
strain. Place solids in jars and reduce liquid till slightly syrupy. Cover solids with
equal parts armangac and syrup and let mature four weeks. { For white grapes use
sauternes, orange Brie de meaux or pave dauphinois with truffles
•
Tomato tart tatin with balsamic shallots, basil crème fraiche, fleur de sel and black
pepper
•
Lovage and blue cheese
•
Vacherin mont de or with prune tartlets and one hundred year old balsamic vinegar
•
Goat cheese bavarois with tart cherries Individual fruit clafoutis with Parisians or
slices of fruit(pears roasted in maple syrup first)
•
Whipped fresh robiola with sliced pear tartlet
•
Pecorino chianti with fresh melon
414
•
Montenebro cheese with cherries
•
Livarot with whole roasted apple, black truffle gastrique finished with truffle
butter and peasant bread
•
Brillat savarin with huckleberries, clove and clove scented blini
•
Camembert bread pudding with currants, walnuts and onion ragu
•
Potato and cantal terrine with shaved white truffle and brown butter and lemon
emulsion
•
Roasted and pureed nectarines with cheese
•
Fried camembert with green tomato jam and tomato sorbet
•
Figs and tomatoes with salty cheese Sweet strawberries with green mint syrup
and salted buffalo mozzarella
•
Apricot foccaccia with fresh cheese
•
Whole roasted fruits for cheese course: Apple—roast in honey caramel with bay
leaves and cinnamon, Pears—roast with juniper, clove and vanilla bean, Plums—
roast with clove, star anise and balsamic(roast fruit till tender then strain and
reduce cooking liquid to a syrup)
415
Dessert Soup or Custard
•
Banana blini with chocolate tappiocca, and vanilla cream
•
Toasted almond panna cotta Buttermilk pastry cream for filling doughnuts
•
Buttermilk panna cotta with rhubarb sorbet and champagne gelée
•
Crème fraiche panna cotta with raspberry gelée and champagne white peach sorbet
•
Dried apricot sorbet: one half of a pound of reconstituted apricots in Muscat, the
juice of two lemons, twenty four ounces of apricot jam, one quarter cup of
kirsch—cook apricots with water till they fall apart, add jam then puree and strain
and finally fold in kirsch and freeze. Add pinch of salt
•
Use glucose in making sorbet with water rich foods: peach, strawberry, melon
•
Eggnog foam or custard or semi fredo in egg shell
•
Sauternes custard with burnt orange emulsion
•
Flavors that work: plum, lavender and celery; peach, anise hyssop and basil;
berries and rose gereanium; apple and rosemary; rhubarb and angelica; huckleberry
and sage; lavender and bay
•
Panna cotta with armangac gelée and prune sorbet
•
Panna cotta with cranberry gelée and orange marmalade sorbet
416
•
Panna cotta with concord grape gelée and peanut butter sorbet
•
Panna cotta with raspberry gelée and peach sorbet
•
Panna cotta with huckleberry gelée and lemon sorbet
•
Tapioca with concord grape sorbet, peanut butter ice cream and butter toasted
brioche bread crumbs
•
Vanilla infused brandy or tequila
•
Geranium infused sugar balanced with allspice, nutmeg, cinnamon, star anise and
coriander
•
Buttermilk panna cotta with sassafras gelée and chocolate sorbet
•
Buttermilk panna cotta with calvados gelée and cinnamon sorbet
•
Buttermilk and coconut panna cotta with rum gelée and pineapple sorbet
•
Petite soufflés hot or cold served in egg shells
•
Flavored caramels:pistachio, cherry and toasted almond, strawberry, orange,
passionfruit
•
Whip evaporated milk like whipped cream
•
Rosemary infused salt for pear and rosemary infused tequila
•
Chipolte in adobo as base for bloody mary mix
417
•
Panna cotta or cheese cake with persimmons and chestnuts
•
Cook tapioca in fresh or poached fruit juices
•
Butter poached mango in sweet beurre monte cut like gnocchi or blini
•
Pureed rice pudding ot make silky smooth
•
Toasted almonds seasoned with orange dust
•
Goats milk panna cotta with beaumes de venise gelée and fig icecream Balsamic
vinegar panna cotta
•
Lomongrass soup
•
Pumpkin pot de crème with beaummes de venise gelée( could make goat cheese
yogurt panna cotta as well)
•
Yoghurt panna cotta with pear gelée, pear sorbet, caramelized pear slices
•
Vanilla yogurt panna cotta with champagne gelée and pommegranite sorbet
•
Panna cotta with tangerined soup(creamsicle)
•
Peach pot de crème with green mango and ginger confiture
Dessert
•
Buttermilk crepes
418
•
Green tomato chutney with currants
•
Chocolate or other budini baked in an eggshell or demitasse cup
•
Sheeps milk yogurt sabayon
•
Coconut and macadami nut scented mascarpone and ricotta cannoli
•
Lard roasted fruits with nut butters:pistachio, hazelnut(used pureed nuts and
actual butter)
•
Camembert ice cream or semi freddo Fruit flavored brioche: blueberry, strawberry,
raspberry, blackberry
•
Banana financier Honey caramel both sweet and savory
•
Cranberry compote sorbet: ginger, citrus, spices
•
Basil and peach cobbler with ginger, anise and clove
•
Infuse cream with herbs and spices for flavored chocolate truffles
•
Cookie plates garnished with child or comfort drinks(with appropriate alcohol):
eggnog, egg cream, hot chocolate, malted shake
•
Green apple sorbet with cinnamon froth
•
Cinnamon froth with apple confit
•
Rosemary foam with pear confit
419
•
Eggnog foam with ground cookie crust
•
Gingerbread soufflé with chestnut ice cream
•
Banana soufflé with banana foster ice cream: make banana foster milk shake
•
Caramelize powdered sugar for glass like crusts
•
White truffle ice cream with quince filled vol au vent
•
Coffee rhum baba
•
Muscat grapes dusted with orange rind dust
•
Roasted pineapple with rum, brown sugar, bay leaf and vanilla
•
Chestnut semi fredo with persimmon sauce
•
Banyuls butter icecream
•
Dulce de leche and bitter chocolate truffles
•
Fennel pollen caramel or bee pollen caramel
•
Use goat cream or goat crème fraiche to finish caramel sauces
•
Port or other flavors reduced and mounted with butter for icecream:cider,
calvados, ver jus, sherry, cabernet, coffee, toffee, sauternes
•
Chocolate tappiocca
•
Caramel sauce finished with coconut milk
420
•
Fresh plum soufflé tartlet
•
Note: sweetened custards need extra eggs to set
•
Savory or sweet beurre monte use to rehydrate dried fruits, mushrooms and
meats: raisins, apricots, prunes, cherries, currants, apples, porcini, morels,
Smithfield ham,
•
Nut flours and buttermilk or goat or sheeps milk for waffles
•
Buttermilk pain perdue
•
Pear soufflé with brown butter almond brittle, and fresh cheese icecream
•
Drink flavored ice cream: rum and coke, gin and tonic Fruit flavored caramels Herb
flavored caramel: basil, rosemary
•
Garnish ice creams with complimentary herbs
•
Pecan waffles with maple glazed banana custard
•
Bourbon or cognac dulche de leche sauce
•
Black truffle pound cake
•
Finish black truffle rice pudding with black truffle anglaise
•
Green tomato and caramel tart tatin with goat yogurt and black pepper ice cream
and sweet basil syrup
421
•
Use sugar, salt, spice, herb and nut crusts for dessert
•
Braise fig compote uncovered in oven intensify flavors
•
Blueberry cornbread muffin cake with blueberry sorbet and maple butter ice cream
•
Buttermilk cranberry ice cream served on buttermilk waffles
•
Make almond milk based marzipan cookie dough ice cream
•
Plate desserts like savory with puree, ragu and sliced or roasted protein with a
final garnish or crust
•
Ricotta custard
•
Make pastry dough and tart doughs with double and triple cream cheeses: brie de
meax, Pierre Robert
•
Milk chocolate guiness ice cream
•
Burnt sugar butter ice cream
•
White truffle icecream with brown butter caramel
•
Bananas foster: en papillote; ice cream; bread pudding
•
Orange dust, fennel pollen, clove, black pepper
•
Garnish fruit salad with granitas or ices
•
Pumpkin cheese cake beignets
422
•
Banyuls or other fortified wine butter icecream
•
Flavors that help—sourcherries with kirsch; dates with sherry; prunes with
armangac
•
Defined marjolaine and dacquoise
•
Experiment using beurre monte in pie dough or puff pastry
•
Poptarts: savory and sweet—apricot with sauternes icing Cookie icecreams(either
fold in raw or cooked cookie dough or make ice cream taste like cookie):
gingersnaps, snickerdoodles, samoas, peppermint, peanut brittle, almond crunch,
peanut butter, sugar
•
Indian pudding custard with corn ice cream: corn bread with crème fraiche and
butter, caramel lined ramekins, spice and molasses liason
•
Indian pudding “foam” for sweet parmentier style dessert
•
Peanut butter cake with grape sauce Black pepper and mascarpone sorbet
•
Freeze dessert wines as sorbet
•
Caramel “windows” to top tartlets and make crusts
•
Figs with wine syrup: red wine, sugar, vanilla bean, orange zest, cinnamon
423
•
Individual fig crumbles(in figs) topped with pistachio, orange zest, sugar and
butter—note could make savory as well
•
Blackberry and almond financier
•
Zucchini cake with zucchini blossom fritters
•
Pinenut toffee
•
Sweet chestnut cappuccino with sweet liquid cromesquis
•
Note: use crème fraiche in clafoutis batter
•
Square doughnut holes
•
Pistachio nougat
•
Meltaway coffee cake as dessert
•
Rum soaked raisin for brown sugar and butter braised vanilla bean larded
pineapple
•
Chocolate filled semolina fritters
•
Ricotta cheesecake with strawberry salad and balsamic
•
Five spice rice pudding
•
Verjus and golden raisin sorbet Layered bread pudding: chocolate and peanut
butter, peanut butter and jelly, dulche de leche
424
•
Rocky road inspired dessert
•
Blueberry muffin with creamsicle ice cream
•
Blackberry cake with goat yogurt sorbet
•
Reverse clafoutis: bake batter in fruit
•
Gianduja hot chocolate
•
Cocoa and toffee caramel : chocolate caramel finished with cocoa use caramel to
make shell around ganache center so one has a chocolate ravioli –melt in
salamander(garnish with salt, pepper or guinea pepper) furthermore flavor ganache
with banyuls or other chocolate friendly seasonings—make toffee caramel with
other flavored ganache
•
Gratin of tapioca and black truffles
•
Whole roasted spiced fruits: star fruit, kiwi, melon
•
Pomegranate caramel
•
Gianduja chocolate “gnocchi”(chocolate truffle rolled out on a gnocchi board) with
crème fraiche vanilla mascarpone sauce and grated toasted hazelnuts(infuse truffles
with other flavors like tea, orange, or mint)
425
•
Use sweetened condensed milk in rice pudding or make dulce de leche rice pudding
or sorbet or foam
•
Indian pudding “mousse” over fall fruit and nuts topped with molasses brittle
•
Persimmon sorbet with ginger bread and dulce de leche ice cream
•
Deep fry ricotta fritters
•
Celery sorbet with strawberry soup and salad
•
Candied kumquat ice cream with rosemary infusion
•
Finish pastry cream with butter
•
Stewed fruits with mousse crust then bruleed Warm maple vinegar gelée in the
center of cornmeal muffins
•
Apple tart tatin ice cream
•
Bread with butter, fleur de sel, and Italian honey
•
Carrot cake soufflé with cream cheese sauce
•
Graham cracker soufflé with chocolate center and marshmallow sauce
•
Ginger bread soufflé with burnt orange sabayon
•
Zuchinni cake with butter ice cream sweet zuchinni blossom fitters like funnel
cakes
426
•
Make chocolate gnocchi by rolling truffles on gnocchi board: serve with
mascarpone, crème fraiche and vanilla sauce
•
Homemade rice flakes: make sweet rice and overcook then puree and spread out
on sil pat to dry out then sprinkle with sugar (homemade frosted flakes)
•
Tahini caramel
•
Turkish coffee icecream: ginger, cloves, cardamom
•
Use white or dark chocolate folded into anglaise to make base for bread pudding
•
Banyuls butter icecream and other flavors: beame de venise, sauternes, sherry,
port, late harvest viogner
•
Tuile of powdered sugar with almond galette
•
Banana or passion fruit infused evo Coconut cake or pudding with liquid chocolate
filling or chocolate truffle
•
Salty almond ice cream with olive oil and aged balsamic
•
Blueberry cake with fresh bay leave ice cream
•
Chocolate covered mint leaves in ice cream as chips
•
Ginger snaps with milk caramel mousse
427
•
Evaporated milk and melted chocolate emulsion
•
Plump dried fruits in tea
•
Dry apricots with sherry, allspice and star anise
•
Rhubarb and lemongrass gelée
•
Banana bread pudding
•
Roast pear clafoutis with rosemary scented maple syrup Buttermilk cornbread
•
Poached fruits with herb infused custards and spice cookies
•
Port wine braised purple figs and beaumes de venise braised green figs
•
Palm sugar and caramelized pear
•
Make pound cake like genoise
•
Toasted almond poundcake: two sticks plus one tablespoon of melted cooled
butter, five large eggs, one cup of sugar, one and one third cups of almond flour
sifted, one and one quarter cups cake flour sifted, one teaspoon tangerine zest,
two tablespoons of sliced almonds—preheat oven to three hundred fifty
degrees—Beat eggs and sugar till thick and pale; fold in flours in three steps; fold
in butter reserving two tablespoons; put cake in pan and sprinkle with almonds
then brush with butter; bake forty to forty five minutes
428
•
Griddled corn muffin with strawberry jam, sweet butter icecream and roasted
strawberries
•
Pumpkin tartlet with coffee icecream, and dulche de leche
•
Pumpkin with bitter coffee sauce and toasted almonds
•
Rhubarb tartlet with caramel ice cream
•
Cinnamon ice cream with warm strawberry fondue
•
Use crème fraiche in pastry cream
•
Flavor clafoutis batter and fold in contrasting flavor: fruits, nuts, syrups
•
Goat cheese cakes with fresh dates
•
Madiera or sherry roasted and braised figs
•
Tapioca pudding filled tartlets with caramelized banana and coffee mousse
•
Bavarian—pastry cream lightened with whipped egg whites, whipped cream and
stabilized with gelatin
•
Whole roasted peaches with Riesling, anise hyssop and ginger
•
White truffle: Cheese fondue; sabayon for rice pudding with brown butter and
lemon zest; cream soda or egg cream; over steamed milk on mushroom consommé;
429
with buttered fettucini and parmesan; infused whipped cream for finishing risotto
or polent; custards
•
Orange peel, burnt caramel and cardamom and nutmeg) Fruits baked with herbs en
cocotte(lemon verbena, lemon balm, bay leaf) served with pain perdue or
poundcakes
•
Vanilla bean floating island wit pear vinaigrette and almond brittle
•
Herb infused meringues
•
Hot chocolate tartlet with crème fraiche ice cream
•
Blueberry cake with lavender, hazelnuts, vanilla
•
Plum popover with clove, yogurt sorbet
•
Bread pudding with strawberries, mint, lemon
•
Mascarpone cheesecake with roasted cherries, allspice, walnuts
Notes on theories, techniques, principles and recipe ideas
•
Juices: pea, carrot, pepper, ginger, celery, rhubarb
•
Terms and techniques: aligote, blanquette, daube, suckling pig, parmentier(savory
and sweet), sarladaise potatoes, truffarde potatoes, demi-deuil(half mourning)
430
•
Use flavored butter rods:olive green or black, caviar, parsley, ginger to lard meat
and fish. The meat will then be basted from the inside and leave the flavoring as
deposits. Freeze the butter in rods to facilitate larding process.
•
Citrus dust: orange, lemon(blanch rinds three times first)
•
Source out purple mustard
•
Almost freeze gelatin then beurre mix to aerate and let set(gains a mousse like
texture)
•
Use glucose in vinegar reduction to balance acidity with consistency
•
Borage: leafy herb with pale blue blossom
•
Use pancetta or proscutto or bacon in barigoule base
•
Use fluted melon baller to make faux gnocchi: avocado, turnip, sweet potato
•
Buckwheat is the dried fruit of a plant in the same family as rhubarb and sorrel
•
Ovuli: mushroom shaped like an egg and rarer than truffles
•
Savory tapioca pearls
•
Tamarillo: tree tomato from peru
•
Bisquits and gravy, tea and crumpets, cheese and crackers, milk and cookies
431
•
Check adding baking soda or powder to milk used for cooking so that it does not
curdle
•
Note add vinegar or lemon juice to egg whites when whipping to stabilize
•
Sources and types of ingredients: gilfeather turnip, VT; Shelburne farms cheddar;
Blenheim apricots; rose finn apple potatoes; pink pearl apples; nantes pumpkin
•
Bitters is made with gentian root
432
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