Model AWC11 - Tractor Supply

Installation and Operating Manual
Model AWC11
Coal Only Stove
Conforms To: UL 1482
SAFETY NOTICE: If this heater is not properly installed, a house fire may result. To reduce the risk of fire, follow
the installation instructions. Contact local building or fire officials about permits, restrictions and inspection
requirements in your area.
CAUTION: Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new room heater. Failure to follow
instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury, or even death.
United States Stove Company
227 Industrial Park Rd.
South Pittsburg, TN 37380
(423) 837-2100
Rules For Safe Installation And Operation
1. Check local codes. The installation must comply with their rulings. Do not install this heater in a mobile home
or trailer.
2. Always connect this heater to a chimney or vent to the outside. Never vent to another room or inside a
3. Do not connect this heater to an aluminium Type B gas vent. This is not safe and is prohibited by all codes.
This heater requires connection to approved chimneys: Either a chimney complying with the requirements
for Type HT chimneys in the Standard for Chimneys. Factory Built, Residential Type and Building Heating
Appliance, UL 103, or a code approved masonry chimney with a flue liner, preferably round. A larger masonry
flue may be used, so long as the flue-section diameter is not greater than 50 sq. in.
4. The chimney portion (whether factor-built or masonry) must be tall enough to provide sufficient draft and
safe exit of smoke and combustion products.
5. Be sure that your Chimney is safely constructed and in good repair. Have the chimney inspected by the Fire
Department or a qualified inspector (such as a Chimney sweep). Your insurance company may be able to
recommend a qualified inspector.
6. Inspect chimney connector and chimney twice monthly during the heating season for any deposit of
creosote or soot which must be removed.
7. Provide air for combustion from outside the house into the room where the heater is located. If the intake is
not in the same room, air must have free access to the room.
Assembly Instructions
Caution! The appliance is very heavy. The assistance from a second person is strongly suggested. Please use
proper lifting technique when positioning the appliance for assembly and installation.
Clearances To Combustibles
Minimum clearances to unprotected combustible walls and ceilings as noted by figures 2 through 4 must be
maintained. Drapes, curtains, furniture and other combustible materials should be kept much further away
from the heater to avoid fire. If you choose to, you may install the heater and chimney connector closer to
combustible surfaces than indicated by Figures 2 through 4 IF a clearance reduction system is also installed to
protect combustible ceilings and walls near the heater and chimney connector. However, there are limits to how
close the heater and chimney connector can be installed to combustible surfaces protected by a clearance
reduction system.
A correctly installed clearance reduction system protects the combustible surfaces well beyond the sides and
above the top of the heater and beyond the sides and top of the chimney connector pipe.
Two common types of clearance reduction systems use sheet metal with a minimum thickness of 28 gauge
(galvanized steel, aluminium, copper) or a 3-1/2 inch (4 inch nominal) thick masonry wall. Either of these materials
must be spaced out 1 inch from the combustible surfaces. With sheet metal, non-combustible spacers are used
to maintain the 1 inch air space. With a masonry wall, metal wall ties and furring strips, if needed are used to
anchor the brick to the wall. To avoid excessive heat transmission, the spacers or wall ties should not be placed
directly behind the heater or chimney connector. The 1 inch air space provides free air circulation. It is essential
that there be openings at the top and bottom of these clearance reducers so cool air can enter at the bottom
and hot air exit at the top. It is the “chimney effect” whereby when the air in the space is heated, it rises exiting
from the top and being replaced by cooler air at the bottom, that makes these shields effective.
Masonry, or other non-combustible products, attached directly to a combustible surface without an air space
offer very little protection and cannot be considered a clearance reducer unless specified materials have been
tested and listed for direct attachment to a combustible surface. The same applies to thin veneer brick and
stone coverings. These materials provide adequate protection only when mounted on sheet metal with a 1 inch
spacing to the wall.
A variety or prefabricated clearance reduction systems which have been tested and listed are available through
heater dealers. Always look for a safety listing label on the product when selecting a clearance reduction
system and make sure it is designed for solid fuel appliances. The manufactures of these systems provide specific
installation instructions that must be followed exactly for a safe installation.
1. The chimney connection should be as airtight as possible. The heater must have its own chimney flue. Do not
connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance. If there is no chimney near where you wish to
place the heater, you can use a UL 103HT Residential Type and Building Heating Appliance Chimney.
2. Place the heater on solid masonry or solid concrete. Manufactured floor protector conforms to UL 1618, that
provides at minimum type 1 ember protection. The floor protector should be under the stove, 16” beyond
the front and 8” beyond each side of the fuel loading and ash removal opening. Have the floor protector
with the specified dimensions. The floor protector must extend under the product and two (2) inches on
either side of the chimney connector
3. Check Figures 2, 3, and 4. Be sure you have the clearances shown from the heater and the connector pipe
to combustible surfaces. If you have a solid brick or stone wall behind your heater, you can place the heater
as close as you wish to the wall. If the wall is only faced with brick or stone, treat it as a combustible wall.
Parallel - Vented Out The Top
A Side Wall To Unit
Side Wall To Flue Pipe
C Back Wall To Flue Pipe
Ceiling Height
D Back Wall To Heat Shield 27in
Parallel - Vented out the Top
Parallel - Vented Out The Back
Back Wall To Heat Shield 20in
Back Wall To Flue Pipe
Parallel - Vented out the Back into a 90° Elbow
Corner - Vented Out The Back Into A
90° Elbow
O 20.25in
Back Wall To Corner Of Unit
Side Wall To Corner Of Unit
Back Wall To Flue Pipe
Side Wall To Flue Pipe
Corner - Vented out the Back into a 90° Elbow
Corner - Vented out the To
Corner - Vented Out The Top
Back Wall To Corner Of Unit
M Side Wall To Corner Of Unit
N Back Wall To Flue Pipe
O Side Wall To Flue Pipe
r - Vented out the Back into a 90° Elbow
Corner - Vented out the Top
Two basic types of chimneys are approved for use with solid fuel: Factory-built and masonry. Factory-built
chimney must comply with UL 103 type “HT” standard.
Do not expect your stove or furnace to create draft. Draft is not a function of the appliance. It is purely a function
of the chimney. Modern stoves and furnaces are much more air-tight and efficient than those of the past and,
therefore require greater draft. A minimum of .05 w.c. (12.45Pa), is required for proper drafting to prevent backpuffing, smoke spillage, and to maximize performance. Gauges to measure chimney draft are readily available
at stove shops and are economical to purchase or rent.
Chimneys perform two functions - one of which is apparent: The chimney provides a means for exhausting
smoke and flue gases resulting from combustion of the fuel. Secondarily, though, the chimney provides “Draft”
which allows oxygen to be continuously introduced into the appliance, so that proper combustion is possible.
Your chimney connector and chimney must have the same diameter as the stove outlet (6”). If this is not the
case, we recommend you contact your dealer in order to insure there will be no problem with the draft.
The stove pipe must be made of aluminized or cold roll steel with a minimum thickness of 0.021” or 0.53 mm. It is
strictly forbidden to use galvanized steel.
Your smoke pipe should be assembled in such a way that the male section (crimped end) of the pipe faces
down. This will allow condensation in the flue to run back into the heater. Attach each of the sections to one
another with three equidistant metal screws and seal each joint with furnace cement.
The pipe must be short and straight. All sections installed horizontally must slope at least 1/4 inch per foot, with
the upper end of the section toward the chimney.
To insure a good draft, the total length of the coupling pipe should never exceed 8’ to 10’ (2.4m to 3.04 m).
(Except for cases of vertical installation, cathedral-roof style where the smoke exhaust system can be much
longer and connected without problem to the chimney at the ceiling of the room).
It is recommended that no more than two 90 degree bends be used because it may reduce the amount of
natural draft. The use of corrugated (non-adjustable) elbows is preferred as they are much more airtight.
You must have at least 18 inches of clearance between any horizontal piping and the ceiling.
The pipe cannot extend into the chimney flue.
The chimney connector must not pass through an attic, roof space, closet, any concealed space, floor, ceiling,
wall or combustible construction. Where passage through a wall or partition of combustible construction, the
installation must conform to CAN/CSA-B365, Installation Code for Solid-Fuel-Burning Appliances & Equipment.
Your stove may be hooked up with a 6” factory built or masonry chimney. If you are using a factory built chimney,
it must comply with UL 103 standard; therefore it must be a Type HT (2100°F). It is extremely important that it be
installed according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
If you are using a masonry chimney, it is important that it be built in compliance with the specifications of the
National Building Code. It must be lined with fire clay bricks, metal or clay tiles sealed together with fire cement.
(Round flues are the most efficient).
The interior diameter of the chimney flue must be identical to the stove smoke exhaust. A flue which is too
small may cause draft problems, while a large flue favours rapid cooling of the gas, and hence the build-up of
creosote and the risk of chimney fires. Note that it is the chimney and not the stove which creates the draft effect;
your stove’s performance is directly dependent on an adequate draft from your chimney. Maximum flue collar
draft is 0.048” w.c.
The following recommendations may be useful for the installation of your chimney:
1. It must rise above the roof at least 3’ (0.9m) from the uppermost point of contact.
2. The chimney must exceed any part of the building or other obstruction within a 10’ (3.04m) distance by a
height of 2’ (0.6m).
3. Installation of an interior chimney is always preferable to an exterior chimney. Indeed, the interior chimney
will, by definition, be hotter than an exterior chimney, being heated up by the ambient air in the house.
Therefore the gas which circulates will cool more slowly, thus reducing the build-up of creosote and the risk
of chimney fires.
4. The draft caused by the tendency for hot air to rise will be increased with an interior chimney.
5. Using a fire screen at the extremity of the chimney requires regular inspection in order to insure that it is not
obstructed thus blocking the draft, and it should be cleaned when used regularly.
Factory Built Chimney
When a metal prefabricated chimney is used, the manufacturer’s installation instructions must be followed. You
must also purchase (from the same manufacturer) and install the ceiling support package or wall pass-through
and “T” section package, firestops (where needed), insulation shield, roof flashing, chimney cap, etc. Maintain
proper clearance to the structure as recommended by the manufacturer. The chimney must be the required
height above the roof or other obstructions for safety and proper draft operation.
Venting Into A Fireplace
Many people may wish to convert an existing fireplace to heater use. Usually, safe connection of stovepipe to
a masonry chimney requires more effort than connection to a prefabricated chimney. The fireplace must be
closed and sealed at the damper in the flue. Good sealants are high temperature caulking, ceramic wool, and
furnace cement. Always remember to inspect the masonry chimney and fireplace. If necessary, clean the flue
and smoke shelf before beginning your installation. Install the heater into the chimney so that the system can be
dismantled for cleaning and inspection.
Before deciding to convert your fireplace or existing chimney, keep in mind that older fireplaces and their
chimneys are unsafe. They must be structurally sound, and the flue liner must be in good condition. Do not use a
chimney if it is unlined (should have a tile clay liner to protect brickwork), have it relined professionally. Clearances
to combustibles are explained in the previous section on masonry chimneys. If you have any questions regarding
the condition of the chimney, consult a qualified engineer, competent mason, certified Chimney Sweep, or
knowledgeable inspector.
Many prefabricated fireplaces fall into the “zero-clearance fireplace” category. This is a factory metal fireplace
with multi-layered construction. It is designed to provide enough insulation and/or air cooling so that the base,
back and sides can be safely placed in close contact with combustible floors and walls. Although many
prefabricated fireplaces have been tested by nationally recognized organizations for use as fireplaces, they
have not been tested to accept heaters. In fact, their use as such may void the manufacturer’s warranty.
Steel-lined fireplaces, on the other hand, can be used with heaters. These units use a 1/4-inch fire box liner and
an air chamber in connection with 8 inches of masonry to meet code. They contain all the essential parts of a
fireplace, firebox, damper, throat, smoke shelf, and smoke chamber. Many of them look exactly like a masonry
fireplace and must be checked closely for above requirements before installing a coal heater into them.
Another method frequently used by some people is to vent the heater directly into the fireplace. This does not
meet code since the heater is being vented into another appliance - the fireplace. This method should not be
attempted because combustion products will deposit and build up in the firebox or fireplace. Be certain not to
install a hazard in you house. You will void your warranty with this installation.
Connection of the stovepipe directly into the existing masonry chimney over the fireplace opening is the only
approved method. This installation performs better, yielding easy to clean and inspect for creosote. Before
beginning this type of installation plan carefully; a high degree of skill is required to insure safety.
An entry port for the stovepipe must be cut through the chimney with minimum damage to the fire clay liner.
Some involved measurements may be required to locate the flue liner exactly. Before cutting, take time to mark
the size and position of the entry port. Position the entry port so that at least 8 inches of the flue liner remains below
the port.
Keep in mind that wood mantels and combustible trim around the fireplace must have adequate clearances
from the heater and stovepipe or must be protected in an approved manner. Also, be sure to leave at least
24” clearance between the top of the stovepipe and the combustible ceiling or other combustibles. Placing
the center of the entry port 2 feet below the ceiling will insure proper clearance for 6 inch, 8 inch, and 10 inch
stovepipes. Next, install a fire clay (at least 5/8 in. thick) or metal thimble, being sure that the thimble is flush with
the inner flue lining. Secure the thimble in place with refractory mortar. The thimble should be surrounded on all
sides with 8 inches of brickwork (solid masonry units) or 24 inches of stone.
Install the stovepipe as far as possible into the thimble, but not past the inside of the flue lining. There should
be a small air space (approximately 1/2 in.) between the stovepipe and thimble, allowing for expansion of the
stovepipe. Seal this airspace with high-temperature caulking or ceramic wool. Finally, be sure to wire the damper
closed and apply the same sealant you used at the stovepipe and thimble junction.
Do not vent up through the fireplace opening, regardless of whether the fireplace opening is closed.
Masonry Chimney
Masonry Chimneys have several positive attributes: If properly built, they are quite durable, and most homeowners
consider them more attractive perhaps than a non-enclosed factory built chimney. And, if the chimney is located
within the confines of the house (that is, not attached to an exterior wall), its mass alone will store heat longer and
continue to release the heat long after the fire has died. Masonry chimneys have many disadvantages though.
Masonry chimneys constructed on an exterior wall are exposed to cold outdoor temperatures, promoting
greater heater loss, higher accumulations of creosote, and reduced draft which leads to poorer heater or
furnace performance.
When considering a masonry chimney, round tiles are preferable to square or rectangular, as round tiles have
much better airflow characteristics and are far easier to clean. Unfortunately, most North American chimneys
use square or rectangular tile liners that are really designed for open fireplaces, not stoves or furnaces. Of most
importance, second only to overall chimney height, is the diameter of the flue liner itself. In most instances, it
should be sized to the appliance; i.e., 6” flue outlet on the appliance requires a 6” flue. The inner diameter should
never be less than the flue outlet diameter and should never be greater than 50% of the appliance flue outlet.
For example, do not expect a burning stove or furnace to function properly if installed into a chimney with a flue
liner greater than 50% the appliance outlet -- such as a 6” flue outlet requires a 6” diameter for optimum drafting,
but can function well with an 8”, but becomes borderline beyond 8” diameter.
Masonry chimneys built of concrete blocks without flue liners of at least 5/8” fireclay do not meet modern
building codes. A solid fuel appliance must not be joined to a chimney flue which is connected to another
appliance burning other fuels.
If your chimney has a typically oversized flue liner of 8x12 inches or greater, or if it is unlined, it will be necessary
for you to reline the chimney, using many of the modern approved and economical methods such as stainless
steel, castable refractory, or properly sized fireclay linings.
If you have any question regarding venting your appliance, feel free to contact the factory at the address and
phone number on this Owner’s Manual. You may also contact NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) and
request NFPA Standard 211 (1984 Edition). Their address is Battery March Park, Quincy, Massachusetts 02269.
Another helpful publication is NFPA Standard 908, available at the same address. Specify 1984 Edition on either
of the above publications.
Masonry Chimney
Ensure that a masonry chimney meets the minimum standards of the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)
by having it inspected by a professional. Make sure there are no cracks, loose mortar or other signs of deterioration
and blockage. Have the chimney cleaned before the stove is installed and operated. When connecting the
stove through a combustible wall to a masonry chimney, special methods are needed.
Method A. 12” (304.8 mm) Clearance to Combustible
Wall Member: Using a minimum thickness 3.5” (89 mm)
brick and a 5/8” (15.9 mm) minimum wall thickness clay
liner, construct a wall pass-through. The clay liner must
conform to ASTM C315 (Standard Specification for Clay
Fire Linings) or its equivalent. Keep a minimum of 12”
(304.8 mm) of brick masonry between the clay liner and
wall combustibles. The clay liner shall run from the brick
masonry outer surface to the inner surface of the chimney
flue liner but not past the inner surface. Firmly grout or
cement the clay liner in place to the chimney flue liner.
Method B. 9” (228.6 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall
Member: Using a 6” (152.4 mm) inside diameter, listed,
factory-built Solid-Pak chimney section with insulation
of 1” (25.4 mm) or more, build a wall pass-through with
a minimum 9” (228.6 mm) air space between the outer
wall of the chimney length and wall combustibles. Use
sheet metal supports fastened securely to wall surfaces on
all sides, to maintain the 9” (228.6 mm) air space. When
fastening supports to chimney length, do not penetrate
the chimney liner (the inside wall of the Solid-Pak chimney).
The inner end of the Solid-Pak chimney section shall be
flush with the inside of the masonry chimney flue, and
sealed with a non-water soluble refractory cement. Use
this cement to also seal to the brick masonry penetration.
Method C. 6” (152.4 mm) Clearance to Combustible
Wall Member: Starting with a minimum 24 gage (.024”
[.61 mm]) 6” (152.4 mm) metal chimney connector, and
a minimum 24 gage ventilated wall thimble which has
two air channels of 1” (25.4 mm) each, construct a wall
pass-through. There shall be a minimum 6” (152.4) mm
separation area containing fiberglass insulation, from the
outer surface of the wall thimble to wall combustibles.
Support the wall thimble, and cover its opening with a
24-gage minimum sheet metal support. Maintain the 6”
(152.4 mm) space. There should also be a support sized
to fit and hold the metal chimney connector. See that the
supports are fastened securely to wall surfaces on all sides.
Make sure fasteners used to secure the metal chimney
connector do not penetrate chimney flue liner.
Method D. 2” (50.8 mm) Clearance to Combustible Wall
Member: Start with a solid-pak listed factory built chimney
section at least 12” (304 mm) long, with insulation of 1” (25.4
mm) or more, and an inside diameter of 8” (2 inches [51
mm] larger than the 6” [152.4 mm] chimney connector).
Use this as a pass-through for a minimum 24-gauge single
wall steel chimney connector. Keep solid-pak section
concentric with and spaced 1” (25.4 mm) off the chimney
connector by way of sheet metal support plates at both
ends of chimney section. Cover opening and support
chimney section on both sides with 24 gage minimum
sheet metal supports. See that the supports are fastened
securely to wall surfaces on all sides. Make sure fasteners
used do not penetrate chimney flue liner.
NOTES: Connectors to a masonry chimney, excepting method B, shall extend in one continuous section through
the wall pass-through system and the chimney wall, to but not past the inner flue liner face.
Operating Instructions
Most sizes of bituminous coal will work in your heater; for best results we recommend large nut coal to small egg
coal (1-3/4” diameter to 4” diameter). When burning anthracite, use egg or broken with sizes between 2-5/16”
and 4-3/8”. Note that it is important to the life of your stove to buy coal which has been sized and cleaned.
Cleaning insures removal of rocks and other materials.
1. Set the thermostat on “HIGH” and open the spin damper on the feed for maximum draft.
2. Open the feed door and place paper and wood kindling on the grate for starting the fire.
3. Light the kindling and close the door.
4. Once a fire is established and burning briskly, add approximately 15 pounds of coal, being careful not to
smother out the kindling fire.
When maintaining a fire, add small amounts of fuel periodically as required (enough to burn for 3 to 5 hours). As
you become more familiar with the operation of your heater, it is possible to add coal to burn for longer durations
of 8 to 10 hours. But doing so carelessly will promote incomplete combustion and considerable sooting along with
a very dirty, inefficient fire.
1. When opening the feed door, turn handle and open door until it stops on the latch and leave it at that
position for at least 10 seconds before opening fully. This will allow any accumulated gases or smoke to exit
into the chimney, eliminating flame or smoke spillage into the room.
2. If need be, shake the grate vigorously back and forth to dump the ashes into the ash pan. Do this at least
once every 12 hours of operation.
3. Never smother the fire when adding fuel.
4. Add fresh kindling if the bed of coals has cooled.
5. Never add fuel above the top of the liners.
6. Be sure the new fuel is burning before you close the door and adjust combustion air.
7. Refer to the Bulletine RC454 in this manual for more information on burning coal.
8. Adjust dampers and air shutters to obtain the burn you desire.
9. Empty ash pan regularly. Do not allow the ashes to build up to the grate as the grate will warp and burnout
will occur. Allowing ashes to build up may also result in ash spillage when removing the ash pan. Dispose of
hot ashes properly (See Maintenance).
DO NOT burn coke, charcoal, high volatile bituminous
coal, sub bituminous, lignite or channel coal
(sometimes called channel coal or candle coal).
Do not use manufactured or charcoal logs
Store coal in a dry, well ventilated area.
CAUTION! Never use the manufactured coal bricks
that are made from coal dust and a wax type
For the first few burns, build small fires to allow the
cast iron components and painted cabinet parts to
season or cure. Your new stove will emit some smoke
and odors from the curing process but should only
do so for a short period of time. We suggest opening
a window in the room of which the unit is installed.
CAUTION: Hot while in operation. Keep children,
clothing, furniture away. Contact may cause
skin burns. Never use gasoline, gasoline-type
lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid,
or similar liquids to start or “freshen up” a fire
in this heater. Keep all such liquids well away
from the heater while it is in use. Do not operate
this heater with the feed or ash door open. This
heater is designed for thermostatic operation.
Operating with either door open will overheat
and damage the heater. Always close the
doors after the ignition. Never over-fire your
stove. If any part of the stove starts to glow red,
over firing is happening. Readjust the air intake
control to a lower setting. Build fires directly on
the grate in the heater. Do not burn garbage,
flammable fluid such as gasoline, naphtha or
motor oil. Do not store fuel or other combustible
materials within the minimum clearances
specified in this manual or within the space
required for charging and ash removal. Doing
so could result in a house fire. Never alter the
adjustment range or air inlets to increase firing
for any reason.
Bulletine RC454
Heaters that are capable of burning coal usually will burn both Bituminous and Anthracite coal. Anthracite is
perhaps the best coal fuel because of its long even burn time, high heat output, and cleanliness which make it a
good choice for the home. However, keep in mind it is a much more difficult fuel to use, requires more care and
patience, is not so widely available, and is usually much more expensive than Bituminous
Most sizes of Bituminous Coal will work in a coal heater; for best results we recommend large “nut” coal to small
“egg” coal (1-3/4” diameter to 4” diameter). When burning Anthracite, use “egg” or “broken” with sizes between
2-5/16” thru 4-3/8”. Note that it is important to the long life of your stove to buy coal which has been sized and
cleaned. Cleaning insures removal of rocks and other minerals. Never use coal smaller than 1” or larger than 5”
in diameter. Small sized coal will smother the fire. Too large a size of coal will not burn well.
All coal fires should be started with wood which will allow the fire to get hot enough to ignite the coal. The best
ignition fires utilize dry pine or other resinous soft woods as kindling, with hard wood (oak, hickory, ash) added to
increase the heat prior to addition of the coal.
Before starting the fire, open the stove pipe damper (if equipped), turn the thermostat to high, open the ash
pit door and feed door, place newspaper and finely split kindling on the grate, light the paper, add larger hard
wood after the kindling is burning brightly. Caution: Never use gasoline, lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter
fluid, or other flammable liquids to start or freshen up a fire in any heater. Place the larger pieces of wood on the
fire so that they are slightly separated and form a level for the addition of coal. It will take 10 to 20 minutes before
this wood is thoroughly ignited. Adding coal too soon will cut the air supply and smother the fire.
Once your kindling and wood fire has produced a bed of well established coals, start adding coal in layers
allowing each to ignite before adding more. Bituminous has a high volatile content and, as a result, should be
fired with the “conical method” - with the highest portion of your fire bed in the center of the firebox. The first
flames will be long and generally orange or yellow and produce quite a bit of smoke. As the gases burn off the
flames become shorter, change color and produce less smoke.
Once the fire is WELL ESTABLISHED add coal to the center of the firebox forming the cone. Burning in this fashion
allows heat to drive off the volatile gases, and turbulence created increases the burn efficiency. There will have
to be some experimenting with the individual setup as no two chimney’s or installations are going to be the same.
Just remember to allow enough air to enter the firebox and keep the stove pipe damper open so that volatiles
are properly burned. Before refuelling, take the time to break up the cone a little with a poker, especially if it has
caked over or formed a crust. But, be careful not to mix the coal as this increases the chances of forming clinkers.
When shaking the grate(s) be gentle. Just a few short movements - a couple of “cranks” - is better than a lot of
agitation. The objective is to remove a small amount of the ashes without disturbing the fire. Stop when you see
a glow in the ashes or the first red coals fall into the ash pan. Excessive shaking wastes fuel and can expose the
grate(s) to very high temperatures which can cause warping or burnout.
For overnight operation (long duration burn time) shake the fire and add coal, retaining the center cone. Once
the volatile are burned off, close the feed door and adjust the stove pipe damper, if equipped. Then adjust the
thermostat to the desired heat level.
More MAINTENANCE will be needed with bituminous coal than with anthracite coal as more soot will collect on
heating surfaces and in pipes, requiring more frequent cleaning.
Add a thin layer of coal (preferably smaller chunks) to the wood fire, being careful not to disturb it too much or
cut off the draft. Then, add a second heavier layer after the coal is ignited and burning well. If necessary, add a
third layer to bring the coal up to the top of the front liner (not above!). Be sure to close the ash door.
Before adding further fuel, be sure to leave a red spot of glowing coals in the center of the firebox to insure that
the fire has not been smothered and to help ignite the gases given off by the new charge. A deep charge will
give a more even heat and a longer fire, but it may take one to two hours before the whole bed is fully ignited.
When the fire is well established and the room is becoming warm, partially close the dampers. Some experimenting
will have to take place with each particular setting of all dampers and controls as the chimney provides the draft
necessary to not only exhaust the smoke, but to pull combustion air into the heater as well - and no two chimney’s
perform the same. Under ideal draft conditions, one should be able to turn the secondary air supply on the feed
door to a near closed position - but leave the ash pit damper at least partially open to prevent the fire from going
out. Adjust the stove pipe damper to reduce the draft on the fire. With anthracite there will be short blue flames
above the coal, except when the fire is started or a new charge is added. If, however, there is no flame then the
fire needs more air from the bottom (unless it is near the end of its burn cycle and needs to be recharged).
Only when the coal is burned down to half its original depth it is time to add fresh coal. When doing so, open the
stove pipe damper and turn the thermostat damper to high, which will allow the fire to burn off any accumulated
gases. Open the feed door, and with a small rake, hoe, or hooked poker pull the glowing coals to the front of
the firebox. Try not to disturb the fire too much. Next, add a fresh charge to the back being careful not to seal off
the top. Close the feed door, but leave the spin damper (or thermostat) open for a few minutes until the volatile
gases have burned off. It is not necessary to shake down the ashes each time you refuel the furnace. Experience
will be your best teacher.
For extended operation, such as overnight, the fire will need to be banked. To do so heap coal up along the
sides and back of the firebox so that the fire gradually burns it over a longer period of time. The intensity of the
fire will also be reduced without letting it go out. Follow the same procedure as for refuelling. If possible, avoid
shaking, as a heavier layer of ash will help reduce the intensity of the fire during this time. After loading, let the fire
establish itself for about 30 minutes. Then close your damper and automatic control to the point where the house
does not become too cold. It is important that you begin banking early enough before retiring or leaving that
you can make necessary adjustments after the fire is well established.
To revive a coal fire that is almost out, (1) open the ash door and stove pipe damper and close the slide damper
under the door to get a good draft through the grate. (2) place a thin layer of dry coal over the entire top of
the fire. DO NOT POKE OR SHAKE THE FIRE AT THIS TIME! (3) after the fresh coal has become well ignited shake the
grate (just a little), refuel.
Ashes should be removed from the stove every few days or when ashes get to 2 to 3 inches deep. Always empty
the stove when it is cold, such as in the morning. Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting
lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a non combustible floor or on the ground, well away from
all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally
dispersed, they should be retained in the close container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Do not use the
ash container to dispose of other trash.
When coal is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture
to form creosote or soot. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning
fire. As a result, creosote/soot residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited this creosote/soot makes an
extremely hot fire. When burning coal, the chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at least twice
a month during the heating season to determine if a creosote/soot build-up has occurred. If creosote/soot has
accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
If a chimney or creosote fire occurs, close all dampers immediately and call the fire department.
Once a chimney fire occurs, it can only be extinguished by removing its source of oxygen. This can be
accomplished by shutting any mechanical draft devices and/or discharging a CO² (Carbon Dioxide) or Halon
fire extinguisher directly into the heater through an appropriately placed clean-out. If using a Halon extinguisher,
please note that it totally displaces oxygen and could become a hazard in itself if enough is discharged into the
living space.
Wait for the heater to cool, then inspect the chimney area for damage. A chimney fire may cause ignition of
wall studs or rafters which you thought were at a safe distance from the chimney. If no damage results, perform
a chimney cleaning to ensure there is no more creosote deposits remaining in the chimney. We suggest having
your chimney inspected by a qualified person before using again.
Establish a routine technique for seasoning, storing, and burning your fuel. Check daily for creosote build-up until
experience shows how often you need to clean to be safe. Be aware that the hotter the fire, the less creosote or
soot is deposited and weekly cleaning may be necessary in mild weather even though monthly cleaning may
be enough during the colder months. Contact your local municipal or provincial fire authority for information on
how to handle a chimney fire if one occurs. Have a clearly understood plan to handle the situation if such an
event were to happen.
CAUTION: Ashes could contain hot embers even after two days without operating the stove. The ash pan
can become very hot. Wear gloves to prevent injury. Never burn the stove with the ash door open. This would
result in over firing the stove. Damage to the stove and even a house fire may result.
NOTICE: Keep your chimney connector and chimney clean and in good condition. Doing so can maintain
heater efficiency and reduce the risk of a fire.
Repair Parts
Repair Parts
Part No.
Flue Collar
Heat Shield, Rear
Inner Right Side Brick
Inner Back Brick
Inner Left Side Brick
Left Grate Support
Grate Frame
Right Grate Support
Grate Agitator
Heat Shield, Bottom
Door Assembly
Ash Pan
Log Retainer
Air Wash Box
Primary Air Slider
Part No. Description
Door Hinge Pin
Primary Air Slider
1/2” Door Gasket
Door Glass
In order to maintain warranty, components must be replaced using original manufacturers parts purchased
through your dealer or directly from the appliance manufacturer. Use of third party components will void the
Limited Warranty
The operation of this appliance in a manner inconsistent with the owner’s manual will void your warranty and is also against federal regulations.
United States Stove Company warrants to the original purchaser its products against premature failure of any component due to workmanship, quality, or
materials as follows:
Firebox ........................................................................................................................................... One Year
Flue Collar - if equipped ................................................................................................................... One Year
All Doors ......................................................................................................................................... One Year
Firebox Baffle ................................................................................................................................. One Year
Door Gaskets ................................................................................................................................. One Year
All Electrical Components (Including Blower) - if equipped ................................................................. One Year
Cabinet and Trim ............................................................................................................................ One Year
Any defects should be reported to United States Stove Company or its dealer and/or distributor giving descriptions and pertinent data, including proof or
purchase which will be returned upon request.
Providing the heater has been installed and used in accordance with the Owners Manual supplied with the heater, United States Stove Company will either:
1) Replace the defective part free of charge
2) Replace the heater free of charge
3) Where the defect is of a cosmetic (non-functional) nature, United States Stove Company will bear reasonable expense to refurbish the heater, including such items as welding, painting, and incidental labor. A “Reasonable” is de ned by terms of this warranty as $30.00/hour with full refund for any
purchase of parts.
Specifically not covered under terms of this limited warranty or any other warranty are problems relating to smoking or creosote. Smoking is attributable
to inadequate draft due to the design or installation of the flue system or installation of the heater itself. Creosote formation is largely attributable to
improper operation of the unit and/or draft as mentioned above. Also, not covered are:
1) Removal and re-installation cost.
2) Service calls to diagnose trouble (unless authorized in writing by the manufacturer, distributor, or dealer).
3) Painted surfaces, brass or brass-colored surfaces.
4) Damage or defect caused by improper installation, accidents, misuse, abuse (including over firing) or alteration.
5) Transportation or shipping costs.
United States Stove Company shall not be liable for incidental, consequential, special, or contingent damages anyone might suffer as a result of their
breach of this written warranty or any implied warranty.
Should the heater be replaced by United States Stove Company “free of charge”, all further warranty obligations are thereby met.
Parts and/or service replacements made under the terms of this warranty are warranted only for the remaining period of the original heater warranty.
Without specific written exclusionary waivers, no one has authority to add to or vary this limited warranty, or to create for United States Stove Company any further obligation of liability in connection with this heater or any other applicable accessory. Any further warranty implication applicable to
this heater or any applicable accessory is limited in duration to the same time period as the original statement in the above schedule.
This heater, including all applicable accessories, must be installed and operated in accordance with local authorities having jurisdiction and the instructions furnished with the Owners Manual.
You should keep as permanent record your proof of purchase (or canceled check or invoice).
As purchaser, you must first contact the dealer and/or distributor from whom you purchased your heater.
If within a reasonable period of time you do not receive satisfactory service from the distributor and/or dealer, write or call United States Stove Company, Customer Service Department, including complete details of the problem and/or problems you are experiencing, details of your installation, your
proof of purchase, and the heater serial number or test agency code number.
The warrantor of record is United States Stove Company, PO Box 151, 227 Industrial Drive, South Pittsburg, Tennessee 37380. Phone number
This warranty gives you specific legal rights; and, you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
Note: Register your product on line at See “Limited Warranty” section for specific warranty
information for your new purchase. Save your receipt with your records for any claims.
Service Record
It is recommended that your heating system is serviced regularly and that the appropriate Service Interval Record is completed.
Service Provider:
Before completing the appropriate Service Record below, please ensure you have carried out the service as described in the
manufacturer’s instructions. Always use the manufacturer's specified spare part when replacement is necessary.
Service 01
Service 02
Engineer Name:_____________________________________
Engineer Name:_____________________________________
License No.:________________________________________
License No.:_______________________________________
Telephone No.:______________________________________
Telephone No.:______________________________________
Stove Inspected:
Stove Inspected:
Chimney Swept:
Chimney Swept:
Items Replaced:____________________________________
Items Replaced:____________________________________
Service 03
Service 04
Engineer Name:_____________________________________
Engineer Name:_____________________________________
License No.:_______________________________________
License No.:_______________________________________
Telephone No.:______________________________________
Telephone No.:______________________________________
Stove Inspected:
Stove Inspected:
Chimney Swept:
Chimney Swept:
Items Replaced:____________________________________
Items Replaced:____________________________________
Service 05
Service 06
Engineer Name:_____________________________________
Engineer Name:_____________________________________
License No.:_______________________________________
License No.:_______________________________________
Telephone No.:______________________________________
Telephone No.:______________________________________
Stove Inspected:
Stove Inspected:
Chimney Swept:
Chimney Swept:
Items Replaced:____________________________________
Items Replaced:____________________________________
Service 07
Service 08
Engineer Name:_____________________________________
Engineer Name:_____________________________________
License No.:_______________________________________
License No.:_______________________________________
Telephone No.:______________________________________
Telephone No.:______________________________________
Stove Inspected:
Stove Inspected:
Chimney Swept:
Items Replaced:____________________________________
Chimney Swept:
Items Replaced:____________________________________
This manual will help you to obtain efficient, dependable service from the heater, and enable you to order
repair parts correctly.
Keep this manual in a safe place for future reference.
When writing, always give the full model number which is on the nameplate attached to the inside of the
cabinet door of the heater.
When ordering repair parts or options, always give the following information as shown in this list:
1. The Part Number_____________________________________
2. The Part Description__________________________________
3. The Model Number__________________________________
4. The Serial Number___________________________________
Before installing your heater, fill in the serial number of your heater in the space provided above.
United States Stove Company
227 Industrial Park Rd.
South Pittsburg, TN 37380
(423) 837-2100