User`s Guide - Husqvarna Viking

User’s Guide
145 TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION SEW I N G M ACHI N E
This household sewing machine is designed to comply with IEC/EN
60335-2-28 and UL1594.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should
always be followed, including the following:
Read all instructions before using this household sewing machine.
Keep the instructions at a suitable place close to the machine. Make
sure to hand them over if the machine is given to a third party.
DANGER – TO REDUCE THE RISK OF ELECTRIC SHOCK:
• A sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged
in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electric outlet
immediately after using and before cleaning, removing covers,
lubricating or when making any other user servicing adjustments
mentioned in the instruction manual.
WARNING –
TO REDUCE THE RISK OF BURNS, FIRE,
ELECTRIC SHOCK, OR INJURY TO PERSON:
• Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is neccesary when
this sewing machine is used by or near children.
• Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described
in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the
manufacturer as contained in this manual.
• Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord
or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or
damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the
nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair,
electrical or mechanical adjustment.
• Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked.
Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot control
free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required
around the sewing machine needle.
• Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the
needle to break.
• Do not use bent needles.
• Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle
causing it to break.
• Wear safety glasses.
• Switch the sewing machine off (“0”) when making any adjustment
in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle,
threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.
• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
• Do not use outdoors.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or
where oxygen is being administrated.
• To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“0”) position, then
remove plug from outlet.
• Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not
the cord.
• The foot control is used to operate the machine. Avoid placing
other objects on the foot control.
• Do not use the machine if it is wet.
• If the supply cord connected with the foot control is damaged,
it must be replaced by the manufacturer or its service agent or a
similarly qualified person, in order to avoid a hazard.
• This sewing machine is provided with double insulation. Use
only identical replacement parts. See instructions for Servicing of
Double-Insulated Appliances.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
FOR EUROPE ONLY:
This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above
and persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities
or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a
safe way and understand the hazards involved. Children shall not
play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be
made by children without supervision. The noise level under normal
operating conditions is less than 75dB(A). The machine must only be
used with foot control of type “21361”.
FOR OUTSIDE EUROPE:
This sewing machine is not intended for use by persons (including
children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or
lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning use of the sewing machine by
a person responsible for their safety. Children should be supervised
to ensure that they do not play with the sewing machine. The noise
level under normal operating conditions is less than 75dB(A). The
machine must only be used with foot control of type “21361”.
SERVICING OF DOUBLE INSULATED
PRODUCTS
In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation are provided
instead of grounding. No ground means is provided on a doubleinsulated product, nor should a means for grounding be added
to the product. Servicing of a double-insulated product requires
extreme care and knowledge of the system and should be done
only by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a doubleinsulated product must be identical to those parts in the product.
A double-insulated product is marked with the words ‘DOUBLE
INSULATION’ or ‘DOUBLE INSULATED’.
We reserve the right to change the machine equipment and the
assortment of accessories without prior notice, or make
modifications to the performance or design. Such modifications,
however, will always be to the benefit of the user and the product.
INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY
VIKING, and TRIBUTE are trademarks of Singer Sourcing
Limited LLC.
HUSQVARNA and the “crowned H-mark” are trademarks of
Husqvarna AB. All trademarks are used under license by VSM
Group AB.
Please note that on disposal, this product must be
safely recycled in accordance with relevant National
legislation relating to electrical/electronic products.
Do not dispose of electrical appliances as unsorted
muncipal waste, use separate collection facilities.
Contact your local government for information
regarding the collection systems available. When
replacing old appliances with new ones, the retailer
may be legally obligated to take back your old
appliance for disposal free of charge.
If electrical appliances are disposed of in landfills
or dumps, hazardous substances can leak into the
groundwater and get into the food chain, damaging
your health and well-being.
Manufacturer
VSM Group AB, SVP Worldwide
Drottninggatan 2, SE-56184, Huskvarna, SWEDEN
Table of Contents
Overview....................................................... 1
Extension Table............................................. 2
Standard Accessories and Storage...........3
GETTING READY TO SEW
4
Connecting the Power Supply................... 4
Adjusting the Sewing Speed....................... 5
Speed Control Slide...............................5
Foot Control............................................ 5
Needle up/down........................................... 5
Sewing Guide Reference Chart................6
Reverse Lever............................................... 7
Presser Foot Pressure Dial........................ 7
Lowering the Feed Teeth............................ 7
Raising and Lowering the Presser Foot..8
Changing the Presser Foot........................ 8
Changing the Needle................................... 9
To Check for a Good Needle..............9
Placing the Thread Spool on
the Spool Pin...............................................10
Removing the Bobbin................................10
Bobbin Winding..........................................11
Placing the Bobbin......................................12
Threading the Machine.............................13
Needle Threader........................................14
Bringing up the Bobbin Thread...............15
Stitches.........................................................16
Stitch Selection...........................................16
Stitch Length...............................................16
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance.............17
To Adjust the Distorted Stitches:......17
Stitch Width.................................................17
Variable Needle Position..........................17
Balancing Needle
Thread Tension............................................18
BASIC SEWING
19
UTILITY SEWING
22
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
38
Straight Stitch Sewing................................19
Finishing Sewing..........................................20
Seam Guides on the Needle Plate.........21
Pivoting.........................................................21
Basic Zigzag.................................................22
Three-step Zigzag......................................22
Seam and Overcast ...................................22
Reinforced Straight Stitch........................23
Button Sewing.............................................23
Automatic Buttonhole..............................24
Corded Buttonhole...................................28
Manual Buttonhole.....................................29
Sewing Zipper.............................................31
Blind Hem....................................................35
Presser feet..................................................36
Non-stick Glide Foot H......................36
Quilting Guide.......................................36
Transparent Foot B...............................36
Gathering Foot (4127971-45)............37
Quilter’s 1/4” Piecing Foot.................37
Cleaning the Hook Assembly Area and
Feed Teeth....................................................38
Replacing the Bobbin Case......................39
Replacing the Light Bulb...........................39
TROUBLESHOOTING40
OVERVIEW
7
1. Bobbin stop
2. Bobbin spindle
8
3. Hole for extra spool pin
9
4. Spool holder
5. Spool pin
10
6. Thread guide for bobbin winding
11
7. Thread take-up lever
8. Presser foot pressure dial
9. Face plate
10. Thread cutter
11. Needle threader
12. Needle plate
13. Extension table (Accessory storage)
14. Bobbin cover plate
15. Bobbin cover plate release button
16. Thread tension dial
17. Needle up/down button
18. Speed control slider
19. Reverse stitch lever
20. Sewing Guide
21. Stitch length dial
22. Stitch selection dial
23. Stitch width dial
24. Presser foot
12
25.Needle
26. Needle clamp screw
27. Ankle to hold foot
28.Thumbscrew
29. Carrying handle
30
30.Handwheel
31. Power switch
32. Foot control socket
33. Machine socket
34. Drop feed lever
35.Free-arm
31
36. Buttonhole lever
32
37. Presser foot lift
6
5
3
4
2
1
23
22
21
16
17
18 19
20
26
27
25
24
28
13
14
15
29
37
36
35
34
33
1
EXTENSION TABLE
To Remove
Hook your fingers on the bottom left of
the extension table and pull it to the left.
Free-arm Sewing
For stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant
legs or any other tubular garments.
For darning socks or mending knees or
elbows.
To Attach
Slide the extension table on and insert
the pins into the holes and push the
extension table to snap it in place.
1.Pin
2.Hole
1
2
Some fabrics have a lot of excess dye which can cause discoloration on other fabric but also on
your sewing machine. This discoloring may be very difficult or impossible to remove.
Fleece and denim fabric in especially red and blue often contain a lot of excess dye.
If you suspect that your fabric/ready-to-wear garment contains a lot of excess dye, always prewash it before sewing to avoid the discoloring.
2
STANDARD ACCESSORIES
AND STORAGE
1. Utility Foot A
2. Utility Foot B
3. Buttonhole Foot C
4. Adjustable Blind Hem Foot
5. Zipper Foot E
6. Non-stick Glide Foot H
7. Edging Foot J
8. Automatic Buttonhole Foot R
9. Transparent Foot B
10. Quilter’s 1/4” Piecing Foot P
11. Gathering Foot
12. Self-adhesive Glide Plates
13. Edge/quilting Guide
14.Needles
15.Bobbins
16. Screwdriver
17. Lint brush
18. Seam ripper (Buttonhole opener)
19. Spool holder (Large)
20. Spool holder (Small)
21. Vertical spool pin
22. Felt cushion
23. Accessory storage (open the
extension table for storing
accessories)
1
2
5
6
9
10
3
4
7
8
11
14
12
13
15
16
18
17
19
21
20
22
23
3
Getting Ready to Sew
CONNECTING THE
POWER SUPPLY
Turn the power switch off.
1
6
5
Before plugging in the foot control, check to ensure
that it is of type “21361” (see underside of foot
control).
3
Insert the foot control plug into the
machine socket.
Insert the power supply plug into the
machine and the wall outlet.
4
2
Turn the power switch on.
1. Power switch
2. Foot control plug
3. Machine plug
4. Machine socket
5. Power supply plug
6. Wall outlet
Note: Before connecting to the power supply, make
sure the voltage shown on the machine conforms to
your electrical power.
For the USA and Canada:
This sewing machine has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To
reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet
only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still
does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet.
DO NOT modify the plug in any way!
4 – GETTING READY TO SEW
ADJUSTING THE SEWING SPEED
You can control the sewing speed in two
ways; with the speed control slide or
with the foot control.
Speed Control Slide
With the speed control slide, you can
change the sewing speed to suit your
needs. The slide limits how fast you can
sew.
To increase the sewing speed, slide the
bar to the right.
To reduce the sewing speed, slide the bar
to the left.
Foot Control
You can control the sewing speed by
using the foot control. The harder you
press the foot control, the faster the
machine sews.
If you press the foot control all the way,
the machine runs at the maximum speed
set by the speed control slide.
NEEDLE UP/DOWN
Touch this button to move the needle
down or up. The setting of the needle
stop position is changed at the same
time.
1. Needle up/down
1
GETTING READY TO SEW – 5
SEWING GUIDE REFERENCE CHART
Consult the Sewing Guide Reference Chart
for the fast easy way to select the best stitch,
stitch length, stitch width, thread tension,
presser foot and presser foot pressure for
your sewing technique and fabric.
Look in the column for your fabric type:
woven fabrics: for stable fabrics that
have no stretch. Usually woven.
stretch fabrics: for fabrics that have
stretch. Usually knit.
leather/vinyl: for suede, real leather
and for artificial leather and suede.
Select the stitch for the technique you want
to sew:
seam: sews two pieces of fabric
together.
Note: For Stretch Fabrics the Sewing Guide
Reference Chart recommends setting the zig zag
stitch length to 1.5 and stitch width to 1.5 for a
seam that stretches with the fabric.
overcast: overcast fabric edges to
prevent them from fraying and to
help them lay flat.
seam/overcast: sews the seam and
overcasts the edge all at one time.
baste: a temporary stitching for
fitting garments, gathering and
marking. Use maximum stitch length.
Note: Basting will leave permanent holes in
leather and vinyl.
blind hem: creates an invisible hem
on garments. Is not recommended
for light weight fabric or for leather/
vinyl.
hem: sews the best visible or top stitch
hem for your fabric type and weight.
buttonhole: sews the best
buttonhole possible for your fabric.
6 – GETTING READY TO SEW
1
3
4
5
1.Fabric
2. Presser foot pressure
3. Sewing technique
4. Stitch
5. Presser foot
6. Thread tension
7. Stitch length
8. Stitch width
2
6
7
8
REVERSE LEVER
When you press the reverse lever
downwards, the machine will sew in
reverse. The machine will only sew in
reverse as long as the reverse lever is
pressed down.
1. Reverse lever
1
PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE DIAL
Turn the pressure dial to adjust the
pressure of the presser foot on the
fabric when sewing on different
thicknesses of fabric. The pressure dial
should be set at 3 for regular sewing.
Reduce the pressure to 2 for appliqué,
cutwork and basting. Set the setting mark
at 1 when sewing stretch fabrics, chiffon,
lace, organdy and other fine fabrics. Set
on 0 for free motion.
1. Setting mark
LOWERING THE FEED TEETH
The drop feed lever is located on the
free-arm on the back of the machine.
To lower the feed teeth, push the lever in
the direction of the arrow, as illustrated.
To raise the feed teeth, push the lever in
the direction of the arrow, as illustrated,
and turn the handwheel toward you or
start sewing to bring the feed teeth up.
The feed teeth must be up for regular
sewing.
1. Raised position
2. Lowered position
1
1
2
GETTING READY TO SEW – 7
RAISING AND LOWERING THE
PRESSER FOOT
The presser foot is raised and lowered
with the presser foot lever. The presser
foot must be down when sewing.
By raising the presser foot lever as far as
it goes the lift height of the presser foot
can be increased by 1/4” (0.6 cm). This
is useful for easy removal of the presser
foot or when placing heavy fabrics under
the foot.
1. Lowered position
2. Normal lift height
3. Extra lift height
CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT
3
3
1
1
Turn off the power switch.
1. Make sure the needle is in the
highest position. Pull the presser
foot towards you.
2. To put foot on, line up the cross pin
on the foot between the spring and
the presser foot ankle. Press back
until the foot snaps into place.
8 – GETTING READY TO SEW
2
2
2
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
Turn off the power switch.
Your machine uses standard sewing
machine needles.
1. Lower the presser foot. Loosen the
screw in the needle clamp by turning
it counterclockwise. Remove the
needle.
2. Push up the new needle as far as it
will go with the flat side away from
you. Tighten the screw firmly by
turning it clockwise.
1
2
a
c
c
b
a. Stop
b. Flat side
c. Needle clamp screw
To Check for a Good Needle:
Put the flat side of the needle onto
something flat (needle plate, glass etc.).
The gap between the needle and the flat
surface should be consistent.
Never use a blunt needle. A damaged
needle can cause permanent snags or
runs in knits, fine silks and silk-likefabrics.
Note: Check the needle frequently for barbed or
blunt points.
GETTING READY TO SEW – 9
PLACING THE THREAD SPOOL
ON THE SPOOL PIN
Place the thread spool on the spool pin
with the thread coming off as illustrated.
With large thread spools, the large
holder is placed in front of the thread. If
you use narrow thread spools, the small
holder is placed in front of the thread.
1
1. Large spool holder
2. Small spool holder
2
REMOVING THE BOBBIN
1
Turn off the power switch.
1. Push the bobbin cover release
button to the right and remove the
cover.
a
a. Release button
b. Bobbin cover plate
b
2. Lift out the bobbin.
2
10 – GETTING READY TO SEW
3
1
b
a
c
2
BOBBIN WINDING
1. Pull the handwheel out to put the
machine in bobbin wind position (the
needle will not go up and down).
2. Guide the thread around the bobbin
thread tension guide into the tension
disk.
3. Thread through the hole in the bobbin
from the inside to the outside. Put the
bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle
with the free end of the thread coming
out at the top.
4. Slide the bobbin winder spindle to the
right.
Note: Do not move the bobbin winder spindle while
the machine is running.
5. With the free end of the thread held
in your hand, press the foot control.
Stop the machine when the bobbin has
made a few turns, and cut the thread as
illustrated.
6. Press the foot control again. When
the bobbin is fully wound, it will stop
automatically. Slide the bobbin winder
to its original position by moving the
spindle to the left, and cut the thread as
illustrated.
7. Push in the handwheel.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
To use the vertical spool pin, set the felt and
the spool as shown above.
a. Vertical spool pin
b. Spool pin felt
c. Spool pin hole
GETTING READY TO SEW – 11
PLACING THE BOBBIN
Turn off the power switch.
1. Place the bobbin in the bobbin
case with the thread pulling off as
illustrated.
1
2. Guide the thread into the front
notch (a) on the front side of the
bobbin case. Draw the thread to the
left, sliding it between the tension
spring blades.
2
a
3. Continue to draw the thread lightly
3
until the thread slips into the side
notch (b).
b
4. Pull out about 10 cm (4”) of thread.
Attach the bobbin cover. Check the
threading by referring to the chart
shown on the bobbin cover.
12 – GETTING READY TO SEW
4
THREADING THE MACHINE
Turn off the power switch.
Make sure the presser foot is raised and
the needle is in the up position.
1
3
2
4
1. Bring the thread from the spool and
pass it through the thread guide.
Then draw it down along the right
slot.
5
1
2. Guide the thread around the bottom
of the thread guide plate.
3. Firmly draw the thread from right to
left over the take-up lever and down
into the take-up lever eye.
4. Slide the thread from the left behind
the needle bar thread guide.
2
3
4
5
5. Use the needle threader to thread
the needle (see page 14).
GETTING READY TO SEW – 13
NEEDLE THREADER
Turn off the power switch.
1. Raise the needle to its highest
position. Lower the needle threader
as far as it will go. The hook comes
through the needle eye from behind.
2. Bring the thread from the left around
the guide and under the hook.
a.Guide
b.Hook
1
2
a
3. Release the knob slowly while
3
4. Pull the loop of thread behind the
4
holding the thread end with your
hand. A loop of the thread is pulled
through the needle eye.
needle eye.
14 – GETTING READY TO SEW
b
BRINGING UP
THE BOBBIN THREAD
Turn off the power switch.
1. Raise the presser foot and hold the
needle thread lightly with your left
hand.
2. Turn the handwheel slowly toward
you one complete turn. Bring the
bobbin thread up by pulling the
needle thread as illustrated.
1
2
b
a. Needle thread
a
b. Bobbin thread
3. Pull 10 cm (4”) of both threads back
and under the presser foot.
3
GETTING READY TO SEW – 15
STITCHES
STRETCH STITCHES
STITCH SELECTION
Raise the needle to its highest position.
Turn the stitch selection dial to set the
desired stitch pattern number at the
setting mark.
1. Stitch selection dial
2. Setting mark
Note Always raise the needle above the fabric
and presser foot before you turn the stitch
selction dial.
STITCH LENGTH
Turn the stitch length dial to set the
desired stitch length number at the
setting mark. The higher the number, the
longer the stitch.
mark shows the adjustment
The
range when sewing the buttonhole.
3. Stitch length dial
Set the stitch length dial at “stretch”
when sewing stretch stitches.
Note: Always raise the needle above the fabric
and presser foot before you turn the stitch length
dial.
2
1
2
3
2
3
16 – GETTING READY TO SEW
ADJUSTING STRETCH
STITCH BALANCE
If the stretch stitches are unbalanced
when you sew on a particular fabric,
balance them by turning the stitch length
dial, within the stretch range.
To Adjust the Distorted Stitches:
If the stitches are spread out (a),
correct them by turning the dial in the
“–” direction. If the stitches are close
together (b), correct them by turning the
dial in the “+” direction.
STITCH WIDTH
Turn the stitch width dial to set the
desired stitch width number at the
setting mark.
The higher the number, the wider the
stitch.
1. Stitch width dial
2. Setting mark
Note: Always raise the needle above the fabric
and presser foot before you turn the stitch width
dial.
a
b
1
2
VARIABLE NEEDLE POSITION
The needle position of the straight
stitches can be varied between the center
(5) and left (0) with the stitch width dial.
GETTING READY TO SEW – 17
BALANCING NEEDLE
THREAD TENSION
The thread tension may be adjusted
depending on the sewing materials,
layers of fabric and sewing method.
1
4
3
Balanced Tension:
The ideal straight stitch has threads
locked between two layers of fabric, as
illustrated.
For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin
thread does not show on the right side
(top side) of the fabric, and the needle
thread shows slightly on the wrong side
(bottom side) of the fabric.
1. Needle thread
2. Bobbin thread
3. Right side
4. Wrong side
Needle Thread Tension Is Too Tight:
The bobbin thread appears on the right
side of the fabric. Loosen the needle
thread tension by moving the dial to a
lower number.
Needle Thread Tension Is Too Loose:
The needle thread appears on the wrong
side of the fabric. Tighten the needle
thread tension by moving the dial to a
higher number.
18 – GETTING READY TO SEW
2
Basic Sewing
STRAIGHT STITCH SEWING
Machine Setting
Consult the Sewing Guide Reference
Chart for the settings recommended.
Starting to Sew
Raise the presser foot and position the
fabric next to a seam guide line on the
needle plate. Lower the needle to the
point where you want to start. Lower the
presser foot and pull the threads toward
the back. Press the foot control. Gently
guide the fabric along the seam guide
line letting the machine feed the fabric.
Changing the Sewing Direction
Stop the machine and press the Needle
Up/Down button or turn the handwheel
to bring the needle down into the fabric.
Raise the presser foot. Pivot the fabric
to change sewing direction as desired.
Lower the presser foot and continue
sewing in the new direction.
BASIC SEWING – 19
FINISHING SEWING
1. Press the reverse lever and sew
several stitches in reverse at the end
of the seam, to lock the stitch.
1
2. Raise the presser foot and remove
the fabric, drawing the threads to the
back.
2
3. Draw the threads up and into the
thread cutter. The threads are cut
the proper length for starting the
next seam.
3
20 – BASIC SEWING
SEAM GUIDES ON
THE NEEDLE PLATE
The seam guides on the needle plate help
you measure seam allowance.
The numbers indicate the distance
between the center needle position and
the seam guide.
1. Seam guides:
NUMBER
SPACING (CM)
15
20
4/8
5/8
6/8
1.5
2.0
1.3
1.6
1.9
1
PIVOTING
Seam along the 5/8” guide. Stop
stitching and lower the needle when the
fabric edge facing you lines up with the
cornering guides as shown. Raise the
presser foot and pivot the fabric to line
up to the edge with the 1.6 cm (5/8”)
seam guide. Lower the presser foot and
begin sewing in the new direction.
2. Cornering guide.
2
BASIC SEWING – 21
Utility Sewing
Consult the Sewing Guide Reference Chart for the fast easy way to select the best
stitch, stitch length, stitch width, thread tension, presser foot and presser foot
pressure for your sewing technique and fabric.
BASIC ZIGZAG
Simple zigzag stitching is widely used for
overcasting, sewing on buttons etc.
THREE-STEP ZIGZAG
When using the Edging Foot J for threestep zigzag, make sure the needle does not hit
the pin in the needle hole.
Three-step zigzag is suitable for
overcasting most fabrics. It is used on the
seam allowance to prevent fabrics from
fraying at raw edges. Make sure that the
needle sews over the edge of the fabric.
SEAM AND OVERCAST
The Seam/Overcast stitch sews the seam
and overcasts the edge all at one time.
22 – UTILITY SEWING
REINFORCED STRAIGHT STITCH
Machine setting:
1. Stitch pattern: 1
2. Stitch width: 0 or 5
3. Stitch length: stretch
4. Thread tension: 2 – 5
5. Presser foot: Utility foot A
This stitch is stronger than regular
straight stitch, due to the fact that it is a
triple and elastic stitch.
The reinforced straight stitch can be
used for heavy stretch fabrics, for crotch
seams which are subject to considerable
strain and for topstitching in heavy
fabrics.
BUTTON SEWING
Machine setting:
1. Stitch: 2
2. Stitch width: Adjust as necessary
3. Stitch length: Any
4. Thread tension: 3 – 7
5. Feed teeth: Lowered
Mark the fabric where the button is to
be located. Lower the feed teeth. Place
the material under the presser foot ankle.
Place the button on marking and lower
the presser bar so that the presser foot
ankle is between the holes of the button.
Hold the thread ends to one side. Turn
the handwheel and check to be sure that
the needle goes into the holes of the
button. Sew 5-6 stitches. Set the stitch
width dial to 0 and lock the threads with
a few stitches.
Note: Do not use this technique if the button is
less than 1 cm (3/8”) in diameter.
Raise the feed teeth after button sewing.
1
2
3
4
5
1
2
4
3
5
UTILITY SEWING – 23
AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE
Machine setting:
1. Stitch pattern:
2. Stitch width: 4 – 5
3. Stitch length:
4. Thread tension: 3 – 5
5. Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole
foot R
Note: The size of buttonhole is automatically
set by placing the button in the automatic
buttonhole foot R. The button holder of the
foot takes a button size up to 2.5 cm (1”) in
diameter. Make a test buttonhole on a fabric
sample duplicating the interfacing and seams
of the actual garment. Use stabilizer under all
fabric.
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise
the needle to its highest position.
1. Snap on the automatic buttonhole
foot R.
2. Pull the button holder to the back,
and place the button in it. Push back
the button holder against the button
to hold it tight.
24 – UTILITY SEWING
1
2
3
4
5
1
2
3 Pull the buttonhole lever down as far
as it will go.
a. Buttonhole lever
3
a
4 Raise the foot and put the needle
thread through the hole and under
the foot. Draw both threads to the
left. Insert the fabric under the foot
and lower the needle at the starting
point. Lower the foot.
b. Needle thread
c. Bobbin thread
d.Hole
e. Starting point
Note: Make sure there is no gap between
the slider and front stop. If there is a gap,
the length of the right and left rows of the
buttonhole will differ.
f. Slider
g. Front stop
h.Difference
i. There should be no gap.
4
d
b
e
c
f
i
h
g
UTILITY SEWING – 25
5. Sew slowly. The machine will stitch
the complete buttonhole. Stop the
machine at the starting point when
the buttonhole is completed.
The machine sews the front bartack
and left column first, then the back
bartack and right column.
6. Raise the foot and remove the
fabric.Cut both needle and bobbin
threads leaving about 10 cm (4”) of
thread ends loose. Draw the needle
thread to wrong side of the fabric
by pulling the bobbin thread. Then,
knot the threads. Place a pin on one
end of the bartack position so that
you do not need to worry about
cutting the end of the buttonhole.
Then cut the opening with seam
ripper.
To sew another buttonhole, turn the
stitch selector to , then back to
again, as shown. Move fabric to next
buttonhole marking.
Now, simply step on the foot control to
sew an identical buttonhole.
26 – UTILITY SEWING
5
6
7. When finished, push the buttonhole
lever up as far as it will go.
7
Adjusting the Buttonhole Stitch Density
Turn the stitch length dial within
the range of
to adjust the
buttonhole stitch density.
Note: If the button is extremely thick, make a
test buttonhole. If it is difficult to fit the button
through the test buttonhole, lengthen the size
by pulling back the button holder which will
increase the buttonhole length.
1.Gap
1
UTILITY SEWING – 27
CORDED BUTTONHOLE
Machine setting:
1. Stitch pattern:
2. Stitch width: 4 – 5
3. Stitch length:
4. Thread tension: 3 – 5
5. Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole
foot R
1. With the buttonhole foot raised,
hook the filler cord on the spur at
the back of the buttonhole foot.
Bring the cord under the foot and
hook the filler cord into the notches
on the front of the foot to hold
them tight.
a. Spur
2. Draw both needle and bobbin
thread to the left. Lower the needle
into the fabric where the buttonhole
will start and lower the foot. Press
the foot control gently and sew
the buttonhole over the cord. The
sewing sequence is the same as the
automatic buttonhole.
1
3
4
5
1
a
2
b
d
c
b. Needle thread
c. Bobbin thread
d. Starting point
3 Pull the left end of the filler cord
to tighten it. Thread the end of the
cord through a darning needle, draw
to the wrong side of the fabric and
cut. To cut the buttonhole opening,
refer to the instructions on page 26.
28 – UTILITY SEWING
2
3
MANUAL BUTTONHOLE
Consult the Sewing Guide Reference
Chart for recommended settings.
If the diameter of the button is more
than 2.5 cm (1”), make the buttonhole
manually as follows:
1. Snap on buttonhole foot C.
2. Pull the buttonhole lever down as
far as it will go. Draw both needle
and bobbin thread to the left. Lower
the needle into the fabric where the
buttonhole is to start, and lower the
foot.
a. Needle thread
b. Bobbin thread
c. Starting point
1
2
a
c
b
UTILITY SEWING – 29
4. Sew the front bartack and left
column to the desired length then
stop sewing.
5. Pull the buttonhole lever toward
you.
6. Sew the back bartack and right
column and then stop sewing at the
starting point.
7. When finished, push the buttonhole
lever up as far as it will go.
30 – UTILITY SEWING
4
5
6
7
SEWING ZIPPER
Machine setting:
1. Stitch pattern: 1
2. Stitch width: 5
3. Stitch length: 1.5 – 4
4. Thread tension: 3 – 6
5. Presser foot: Zipper foot E
1
2
4
3
5
To Snap On the Zipper Foot
Snap on the zipper foot.
1.Groove
2.Pin
To sew the left side of the zipper, snap
on zipper foot on the right bar on the
side.
To sew the right side of zipper, snap on
the zipper foot on the left bar on the
side.
Fabric Preparation
2
1
1
1. Add 1 cm (3/8”) to the zipper size
for the overall opening size.
a. Right side of the fabric
b. 1 cm (3/8”)
c. Opening size
d. Zipper size
e. Slider
f. Zipper teeth
g. Zipper tape
h. Wrong side of the fabric
i. End of the opening
i
g
h
f
c
a
d
b
e
UTILITY SEWING – 31
2. Place right sides of the fabric
together. Sew a seam from the
bottom 2 cm (5/8”) from the
right edge to the end of the zipper
opening. Sew a few stitches in
reverse to lock. Increase the stitch
length to “4”, set needle thread
tension to “1”, and baste the length
of the zipper opening.
j. 2 cm (5/8”)
k.Basting
l. Reverse stitch
m.End of the opening
n. Straight stitch
2
n
l
m
k
j
a
1
b
To Sew
1. Snap on the zipper foot with the bar
on the right side. Turn under the
right seam allowance to form a 0.4
cm (1/8”) fold.
a. Lower layer
b. End of opening
c. Zipper teeth
d. 0.4 cm margin
e. Wrong side of the fabric
f. Opening size
g.Fold
h. Basting stitch line
2. Place zipper teeth next to the fold
and pin in place. Align the zipper
foot with the fold. Return thread
tension and stitch length to original
settings. Sew a seam the entire length
of zipper tape, removing pins as you
go.
32 – UTILITY SEWING
c
d
f
e
g
h
2
c
e
3. Sew through all layers next to the
fold. Stop just before the zipper
foot reaches the slider on the zipper
tape. Lower the needle slightly into
the fabric. Raise the zipper foot and
open the zipper. Lower the foot and
stitch the remainder of the seam.
3
i
i. Slider
j. 5 cm (2”)
4. Close the zipper and spread the
fabric flat with the right side facing
up. Baste the opened fabric and
zipper tape together.
j
4
k.Basting
l. Zipper tape
i
k
l
UTILITY SEWING – 33
5. Remove the zipper foot and snap
on with pin on left side. Guide the
edge of the foot along the zipper
teeth and stitch through the fabric
and zipper tape, about 1 cm (3/8”)
distance from the basting line. Stop
about 5 cm (2’’) from the top of the
zipper.
5
n
m.Remove the basting stitches
n. 1 cm (3/8”)
6. Unzip a few centimeters/inches to
clear a path for the stitch. At end of
seam, sew a few stitches in reverse
to lock. Once both sides of zipper
are sewn, use the seam ripper to
open the rest of the basting stitch.
34 – UTILITY SEWING
m
6
BLIND HEM
Consult the Sewing Guide Reference
Chart for recommended settings.
1. Fold the hem under the fabric as
illustrated for fine or medium fabrics.
Fold a hem with the wrong side up
forming a 0.5 cm (1/8”) allowance.
a.
b.
c.
d.
1
b
a
d
a
c
d
Wrong side of the fabric
0.5 cm (1/8”)
Heavy weight fabric
Light/medium weight fabric
2. Snap on the adjustable blind hem
foot. Place hem under the presser
foot. When the needle comes to the
left side, position the fabric so that
the folded edge comes to the left
side of the guide. Lower the presser
foot.
3. Turn the orange dial on the blind
hem foot backward or forward to
adjust the foot from side to side until
the wide stitch of the blind hem
barely catches the fabric.
2
3
4. Open the fabric after sewing and
press flat.
e. Right side of the fabric
4
e
UTILITY SEWING – 35
PRESSER FEET
Non-stick Glide Foot H
Consult the Sewing Guide Reference
Chart for recommended settings.
When sewing foam, plastic, plastic coated
fabrics, leather and imitation leathers, the
Non-stick Glide Foot H feeds over the
fabric without sticking. Use it for general
sewing and buttonholes on plastic and
leather type fabrics.
Snap on the Non-stick Glide Foot H.
Select desired stitch and sew.
Quilting Guide
The quilting guide will help keep
stitching lines straight.
Slide the guide into the clip on the ankle.
Adjust from side to side to the correct
position. Sew, guiding the quilt guide
over the previous row of stitching.
1.Clip
2. Quilting guide
3. Seam spacing
Transparent Foot B
Satin stitch applique, taper stitches and
decorative stitches. Length as desired.
The tunnel on the underside of the foot
feeds smoothly over the stitches. Because
it is clear and has red guidelines, visibility
and accuracy is improved. Use stabilizers
as needed.
Snap on foot. Set decorative or satin
stitch. Sew.
36 – UTILITY SEWING
1
3
2
Gathering Foot (4127971-45)
Gather fabric or gather and attach a
ruffle in one step. Suitable for light to
medium weight fabrics. Straight stitch,
(left needle position), length 4. The
longer the length, the more fabric will
gather. Snap on Gathering Foot.
For gathered fabric:
Place fabric under Gathering Foot and
sew. Increase upper tension for tighter
gathers.
To gather and attach gathered fabric in one step:
Place fabric to be gathered under the
presser foot right side up. Place fabric to
have ruffle attached to it in the groove
of the foot right side down. Sew, guiding
the under fabric but do not hold it
back. Keep the top fabric in the groove
moving steadily as needed. Increase the
stitch length and the upper tension for
more gathers.
Quilter’s 1/4” Piecing Foot
Sew a scant 1/4” seam allowance. Red
lines mark 1/4” and 1/8” pivot points in
front of and behind the needle. Straight
stitch, length 2.0-2.5.
Place to pieces of fabric right sides
together. Sew with edge of fabric at
edge of foot. To pivot 1/4” from end
of fabric, stop sewing with needle stop
down, when fabric edge reaches first red
mark on foot.
UTILITY SEWING – 37
Care and Maintenance
Turn off the power switch.
Do not dismantle the machine other than
as explained in this section. Clean the
outside of the machine with a soft cloth
and mild soap.
CLEANING THE HOOK ASSEMBLY
AREA AND FEED TEETH
1. Remove the presser foot and needle.
Remove screw on the left side of
the needle plate with the screwdriver
supplied with the machine. Remove
the needle plate and take out the
bobbin.
a. Screw
2. Lift up the bobbin case and remove
it.
1
a
2
3
3. Brush out dust and lint.
4. Clean the feed teeth and hook
assembly area with the lint brush.
5. Wipe out gently with a soft, dry
cloth.
Note: You may also use a vacuum cleaner.
38 – CARE AND MAINTENANCE
4
5
REPLACING THE BOBBIN CASE
Turn off the power switch.
1. Insert the bobbin case into the hook
assembly area.
2. Make sure the knob of the bobbin
case fits next to the stopper in the
assembly area.
1
2
a.Knob
b. Stopper
b
3. Insert the bobbin. Replace the
needle plate, inserting the two needle
plate guide pins into the holes in the
needle plate. Replace the screw.
c. Guide holes
d. Screw
a
3
c
d
c
REPLACING THE LIGHT BULB
Turn off the power switch. Wait for the
light bulb to cool down before touching it.
Remove the cap and screw. Remove the
face plate.
To remove: Draw out slowly.
To replace: Push in.
Note: Replace bulb with same type rated
12 Volt, 5 Watt.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE – 39
Troubleshooting
CONDITION /CAUSE
The Needle Thread Breaks
•
•
•
•
•
The needle thread is not threaded properly.
The needle thread tension is too tight.
The needle is bent.
The needle is incorrectly inserted.
The needle thread and the bobbin thread are not placed
under the presser foot at start of sewing.
• The threads were not drawn to the rear after sewing.
The Bobbin Thread Breaks
• The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbin
case.
• Lint has collected in the bobbin case.
• The bobbin is damaged and does not turn smoothly.
The Needle Breaks
•
•
•
•
•
The needle is incorrectly inserted.
The needle clamp screw is loose.
The threads were not drawn to the rear after sewing.
The needle is incorrectly inserted, bent or blunt.
The needle and/or threads are not suitable for the fabric
being sewn.
Skipped Stitches
• The needle thread is not threaded properly.
• A poor quality needle is used.
• The needle thread tension is too tight.
Seam Puckering
• The needle thread is not threaded properly.
• The stitch length is too long for the fabric.
40
REFERENCE
Page 13
Page 18
Page 9
Page 9
Page 19
Page 20
Page 12
Page 38
Change the bobbin
Page 9
Page 9
Page 20
Page 9
Page 9
Page 13
Change the needle
Page 18
Page 13
Make stitch shorter.
CONDITION /CAUSE
The Cloth Is Not Fed Smoothly
REFERENCE
• The feed teeth are packed with lint.
• The stitchlength is too short.
• The feed teeth are not raised after ”drop feed” sewing.
Page 38
Make stitch longer
Page 7
Loops On The Seams
• The needle thread tension is too loose.
Page 18
The Machine Does Not Work
• The machine is not plugged in.
• Thread has been caught in the hook.
• The bobbin winder spindle is still in the winding position.
Page 4
Page 38
Page 9
Noisy Operation
• Thread has been caught in the hook assembly area.
• Lint has built up in the hook assembly area or bobbin case.
Page 38
Page 38
Buttonhole Is Not Sewn Neatly
• The stitch density is not suitable for the fabric being sewn.
• Interfacing is not used when sewing on the stretch fabrics.
Page 27
Use interfacing.
Layer Slippage
• Foot pressure is not adjusted properly.
Page 7
Buttonhole Won't Sew
• Pull down buttonhole lever.
• Be sure the buttonhole lever is in the back position.
Page 29
Page 29
Buttonhole has Gaps
• Button must be tight in foot.
• There is space in foot. Check gap.
Page 24
Page 24
41
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145 TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION SEW I N G M ACHI N E