Assembly instruction guide
Assembly instruction guide
TOOLS REQUIRED
10
mm
no.
4
no.
5
15
mm
no.
6
Allen Key
Spanners or
adjustable wrench
Phillips
Screwdriver
P1
Assembly instruction guide
BICYCLE ASSEMBLY
1.Lay the bike flat on soft surface, like old carpet or a rug, to avoid
damage, and cut the cable ties. Leave all cardboard packaging
on the bike where you can to protect the frame as your build your
cycle. Lay the handle bars to one side and remove the black plastic
front fork spacer. Remove black caps on front wheel, loosen nuts on
wheel axle nearly all the way.
SHIFTER
2.Balance the bike on the front forks and the rear wheel.
GRIP
SADDLE
HEAD TUBE
SEAT POST
REAR RACK
FRONT FENDER
STEM
FRONT FORK
INTERNAL HUB
MEANS ‘hot,
cool or
damn tasty’
PEDAL
3.Place the sprung wire cable tidy over the aluminium cap (which is
in the small cardboard box). Place the cap on the handle bar stem.
This cap hides the connection between the stem and head tube.
4.Insert the handlebar stem in the head tube. Make sure handlebars
sit straight, the front forks are straight and the all cables are not
tangled or twisted. Adjust handle bar stem to approximate correct
height and then tighten with a no. 6 allen key. Place cables in cable
tidy on cap.
5.Look for the “direction of rotation” arrow stamped on the wall of the
front wheel.
6.Place front wheel with arrow pointing the correct direction into axle
housing on front fork, ensuring washers are either side of the fork,
then tighten nuts with a 15mm spanner.
7.Put kick stand down, now you have a semi stable bike to continue
to work on. Insert the seat post with saddle attached into the frame
of the Bicycle to the approximate correct height. Tighten the seat
post hex bolt on the frame using a no.5 allen key until the seat post
cannot be twisted. Place front fender in position over the tire and
attach the fender stays to front forks with the small hex bolts.
8.Attach bell near handle bar grips using a Phillips screwdriver, test it,
sound good!?
9. Attach rear rack using no 5 Allen key tighten bolts. Remove screw
from the front light with a Phillips screwdriver and insert batteries.
Remove packaging, pump up the tires to 35-40psi, a floor pump is
easiest. Check that all nuts are tight, and squirt a little oil on the chain.
FENDER STAY
PEDAL CRANK
KICK STAND
P2
Assembly instruction guide
BRAKE ASSEMBLY
headlamp bolt goes
through here
1.The brake system is wrapped within the small box, everything you
need is included here. Unwrap and let’s get into it!
BRAKE BOLT
FRONT LIGHT STRUT
2.Unscrew nut on the end of the brake bolt, remove washer and one
black thick washer. Then insert bolt with everything else through the
front hole in the head tube and eye of front fender, replace the thick
black washer, thin washer and nut and loosely tighten. The Black
curved washers should be either side of the head tube, turn these
until a better fit is achieved against the head tube.
3.Insert the cable end with a small metal disc (nipple) into the brake
handle and the other end through the barrel like cylinder and then
by loosening the nut on the crimper bolt a hole will appear, slide the
cable end through and retighten.
adjustable nut
HEAD SET GOES HERE IN
BETWEEN WASHERS
CRIMPING BOLT
brake pads
4.Now we need to check the brake pads are hitting the rim when the
brake lever is pulled. Using a 10mm spanner you can loosen the brake
pads, twist them if necessary or move them up or down if necessary
to make sure that they will hit squarely on the rim of the tyre when the
brake lever is pulled. Once in position, retighten. Do the same for the
other side, so now both brake pads are hitting the rim when the lever
is pulled.
5.Watch the calliper to make sure both sides clamp against the bike
wheel. If one side is stuck, you may find that only one pad is engaging
the wheel, and this will not give you effective braking. You may need
to loosen the bolts that hold the calliper on the bike, and work it in
and out to free up the mechanism. Some good light machine oil will
help keep these moving parts lubricated.
6.Check the cable tension. When pulling the lever, it should need to be
pulled back approximately halfway to the handlebars for the brakes to
come on. If the lever is being pulled back further and the brake pads
are still not touching the rim; the cable needs to be tightened. To
tighten the brake cable, loosen the crimping bolt holding the cable
using a 10mm spanner and hold the brake calliper closer together
using your other hand, so that the cable comes through the crimping
bolt further. Now retighten the bolt using the 10mm spanner and
then release your hand from holding the brake Calliper. If the cable is
too tight, do the same action but let the cable loosen off rather than
pulling the cable further through the crimping bolt.
7.Now the pads are in place and the cable is at the correct tension it is
time to align the brake to ensure the pads do not rub when you ride.
To do this look at the gap either side between the pad and the rim.
If one side is particularly bigger than the other, loosen the bolt at the
rear of the fork, using a 10mm spanner.
adjustable nut
lekker brake system
8.Attach the cable end cap to stop the end fraying. Squash it into place
with pliers.
9. Attach to front light mount with supplied bolt and tighten nut.
Now get out there and enjoy your new ride!
P3
www.pedal.net.nz
|
info@pedal.net.nz
P4