4 Faucets_Chinese.pages

Faucets p. 1
Faucets ⽔水⻯⿓龍頭
Water and Water Connection Basics ⽔水與供⽔水
Sink Drains ⽔水槽排⽔水
Dishwashers 洗碗機
How to Replace a Bathroom Faucet & Drain 如何更換浴室⻯⿓龍頭和排⽔水
Removing Old Bathroom Faucets 拆除舊的浴室⻯⿓龍頭
Top-Mounted Faucets 頂部安裝的⽔水⻯⿓龍頭
Bottom-Mounted Faucets 底部安裝的⽔水⻯⿓龍頭
Repairing Ball-Type Faucets 修理台盆⻯⿓龍頭
Repairing Cartridge Faucet 修理濾⽔水⻯⿓龍頭
Repairing a Ceramic-Disk Faucets 修理陶瓷⻯⿓龍頭
Faucets p. 2
Water and Water Connection Basics
Almost all kitchen and bathroom sink faucets are connected to water piping through
flexible supply tubes. In just about every case, you make the riser-to-supply-tube
conversion with a compression fitting. While some codes require shutoff valves only
on the toilet supply, allowing simple compression adapters on other supply
connections, the general trend is towards requiring shutoffs on all fixtures fed by
supply tubes. Even when shutoffs are not required, they’re a good idea. You’ll thank
yourself for installing them the first time a fixture or appliance needs servicing.
As for the supply tubes, you can choose soft-copper tubes, which are extremely
inexpensive, or stainless-steel enmeshed polymer tubes, which cost substantially
more but are prefitted and almost fool proof. Stainless-steel enmeshed tubes are
perfect for the poorly equipped and the mechanically timid. At this writing, many
codes do not allow plastic supply tubes.
Sink Drains
When it comes to joining a kitchen sink to permanent drain piping, use 1.5 inch
tubular waste kits and P-traps. Waste kits for double sinks are sold with or without
waste-disposal-unit connections. One is called a sin-waste kit and the other, a
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disposal-waste kit. These kits usually include all the pieces needed to drain both
compartments of a sink into a sing P-trap. Traps are usually sold separately. Use a
1.5 inch flanged tailpiece and P-trap to drain a single-compartment sink.
Bathroom sink drains are always 1 ¼ inches in diameter, but you can fit them with
either a 1 ¼ or 1 ½ inch trap. You’ll find a special reducing washer packaged with
each trap to make the conversion. All waste kits and traps are available in PVC
plastic or chrome-plated brass. Plastic is much easier to cut and assemble. It’s less
expensive, and unlike brass, it doesn’t corrode. This is one case where plastic beats
metal, hands down. Use chrome traps only when the trap will be visible, as under a
wall-hung bathroom sink. You can cut both materials with a hacksaw or wheel cutter.
When hooking up a dishwasher, use … inch soft copper water piping and compression fittings.
Run this from the hot-water shutoff (or dual stop) under the sink through the side of the sink
cabinet, near the side to the inlet on the dishwasher’s solenoid valve.
Dishwashers usually come with more than one discharged hose attached. The hose
will be made of ribbed plastic or heat-resistant rubber. If you want to extend a
rubber discharge line, automotive heater hose is a good choice. You can make all the
connections using conventional hose clamps. If the sink has no waste disposal unit
attached, connect the free end of the hose to disposal unit T-fitting under the sink,
just above the trap. If the sink is equipped with a waste-disposal unit, connect the
hose to the discharge nipple … metal body of the unit.
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How to Replace a Bathroom Faucet & Drain
Bathroom faucets are sold with and without drain assemblies. Because the lift rod that
operates the drain’s pop-up plug is installed through the faucet-body cover, it’s good idea to
replace both when changing out an old faucet. The procedure described here assumes that
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your sink is installed in a vanity cabinet.
First, remove the old faucet and drain assembly. Shut off the water, and drain the faucet
lines. If you have to shut off the main valve to the house and you have plumbing fixtures on
the upper floor above this bath, open those fixtures a well. Otherwise, the water from
upstairs will drain onto you as you lie beneath your work.
Removing Old Bathroom Faucets
How you remove the old faucet depends on whether it’s a top-mounted or bottommounted faucet. Top-mounted faucets are the most common.
Top-Mounted Faucets
A top-mounted faucet is held in place from below by threaded shanks or fastening
bolts, which fit through the basin’s deck holes. If the faucet is a two-handle model,
expect to find jamb nuts tightened onto the shanks from below. In this case, you’ll
connect the supply tubes to the ends of the shanks. If your faucet has copper tubes
instead of brass shanks – usually the case with single-control faucets – the faucet will
be held in place by threaded bolts. One look under the sink, and you’ll know the type
you have.
When working within the cramped spaces behind a sink, you’ll find loosening and
tightening nuts a lot easier with a basin wrench. A basin wrench is really just a
horizontal wrench on a vertical handle. Lay its spring-loaded jaws to one side, and
the wrench loosens, lay it to the other, and it tightens. The extended handle allows
you to work high up under a basin or sink deck without having to reach.
Loosen the two coupling nuts that secure the supply tubes to the faucet. Then, using
a standard adjustable wrench, disconnect the lower ends of the tubes from their
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compression fittings. Set the supply tubes aside, and use the basin wrench to remove
the fastening nuts from the faucet shanks or fastening bolts. Finally, lift the old
faucet form its deck holes.
Bottom-Mounted Faucets
If the old faucet is a bottom-mounted model, with the body of the faucet installed
below the sink deck, the initial approach is from above. Leave the supply tubes in
place until after you’ve completed your work on top. Start by prying the index caps
from the faucet handles.
Remove the handle screws, and lift the handles from their stems. This will give you
access to the flanges (or escutcheons). Threaded onto the stem columns. Thread
these flanges off; disconnect the supply tubes; and drop the faucet from its deck.
Some bottom-mounted faucets consist of three isolated components, including two
stems and a spout. These components are joined with tubing and are easy to
disassemble from below.
Fixing Ball-Type Faucets
Delta Faucet Company is one of the pioneers in the alternative faucet design, with its
proprietary ball-and-cam mechanism, and actually offers two name brands. The Delta
trademark is sold through professional plumbers, while the Peerless line is sold at the
retail level. You’ll notice slight cosmetic differences between the two lines, but both
use the original ball-and-cam mechanism.
What traditional ball-type faucets have going for them is affordable repair parts. You
don’t usually discard the entire mechanism. Instead, you can replace only those parts
that are worn, which in many cases, are the springs and rubber seals. Several repair
kits are available. Some include only the inlet springs and seals; some include seals,
springs, and cam cover; and some include all mechanical components, including a
stainless-steel or elastic control ball and a special wrench needed to remove the old
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How to Repair a Leaky Ball Faucet
To gain access to a ball-type sink faucet, turn off the water at the shutoff valves and
turn up the handle. Loosen the Allen crew on the lower-front section of the handle,
and take off the handle.
Where the handle had been, you’ll find a large chrome cap with either wrenching
surfaces or a knurled rim. If the nut base has wrenching surfaces, loosen the nut with
smooth-jaw pliers or an adjustable wrench. If the cap has a knurled rim, use either
the Delta wrench that come with each repair kit or large adjustable pliers padded
with cloth or duct tape to avoid scratch the metal surface.
With the cap removed, lift the nylon and neoprene ring??? that covers the top of the
Then remove the ball. Set both aside. Reach into the faucet body, and using the
Allen wrench or a small screw driver, lift the cold-water rubber seal and its spring
from the inlet port. Then lift the hot-water seal and spring. There’s little noticeable
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difference between old and new seals and springs so it’s easy to get them mixed up.
Throw out the old ones immediately. If you plan to replace the cam, discard it as
well. If your faucet is more than 10 years old or has dripped for several months,
replace the ball, too.
Assuming you’ll be replacing everything except the ball, press each rubber seal onto
its spring. Slide the seal and spring onto an Allen wrench or screwdriver, with the seal
facing up. With an index finger holding the assembly in place, insert the spring and
seal into the inlet. Install the remaining seal and spring in the same way.
With the new seals installed, press the ball into the body. The ball will have a peg
like key on one side that matches a slot in the body, so there’s no chance you’ll get it
wrong. Press the new cam cover over the ball, and align its key with the keyway on
the faucet body. Push it down until the key engages, and then thread the cap over it.
Tighten the cap until it feels snug, but don’t overdo it. Replace the handle and test
your work. If the faucet drips or water appears around the handle, remove the
handle and tighten the cap a little more.
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Repairing Cartridge Faucet
Repair of a cartridge-type faucet usually consist of merely replacing a long, selfcontained cartridge.
Cartridge faucets offer an important benefit; if the water piping was installed
backward, you can still have the hot water on the left side. All you do to reverse the
hot and cold sides is rotate the stem 180 degrees. This is a handy feature in back to
back bathrooms, where a shared set of risers leaves one bath with reversed piping. A
reversible faucet saves pipe and aggravation. But you must also make sure replace
Faucets p. 10
the cartridge in the same orientation.
Repairing a Single-Handle Kitchen faucet
Begin by turning off the water at the shutoff valves. The faucet handle may or may
not have a chrome or plastic index cap. If it does, pry under the cap with a utility
knife to gain access to the handle screw. If it doesn’t, like the one shown in the
photo, just pull off the cover.
Remove the screw from the handle, and tip the handle up and back. The handle’s
cam slot fits into a deep groove in the pivot hut, so expect to have to wriggle and cox
it a bit. When the lever clears the pivot nut, lift it and its plastic hood from the
faucet column. Loosen and remove the treaded pivot nut to reveal the top of the
cartridge. Looking closely, you’ll see that the cartridge is locked in place by a small
U-shaped clip, positioned horizontally across the top of the cartridge. Use needlenose pliers or a screwdriver to remove this clip. Then grasp the cartridge stem, and
pull it straight up. If it feels tuck, grip it with pliers and pull a little harder: it will
break free and come out.
Replacing the Cartridge and Handle
To make the repair, insert a new cartridge into the port and press it down as far as it
will go, aligning the flat notches in the stem with the brass body slots. Insert the
retainer clip so it won’t go in all the way; rotate the new cartridge locked in place,
thread the pivot. Push the clip into its slot until it bottoms out. With the new
cartridge locked in place, thread the pivot nut back onto the column and re-install
the handle.
Re-installing the handle can also be tricky. The cam opening in the handle must
engage the groove of the pivot nut. If it doesn’t, the handle won’t operate through
its full rang. You’ll be able to turn the water on and off but just barely. To avoid that
problem, tip up the handle as high as it will go within its plastic hood. Carefully
engage the back of the lever in the pivot nut’s groove. When you feel it engage, press
the handle down, install the stem screw, and install the decorative cover. Turn the
water back on, and test your work. If you find the hot water is now on the right side,
remove the handle and rotate the stem 180 degrees.
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Repairing a Ceramic-Disk Faucets
Ceramic-disk faucets are particularly vulnerable to sediment accumulations. For this
reason, don’t assume that a dripping faucet needs a complete overhaul. When a
ceramic-disk faucet develops a steady drip, remove the aerator and move the handle
through all positions several times. If sediment was the culprit, this should clear it.
In general, a ceramic-disk faucet is not a good choice if you experience sediment
problems with your water supply, especially if they are so severe that you require a
Fixing a Leak in a Ceramic-Disk Faucet
If you have a newer-style ceramic-disk faucet and you can’t seem to clear the
sediment by rotating the handle, you’ll need to check the cartridge. Shut off the
water, tip back the handle, and loosen the setscrew. Remove the handle, and lift off
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the decorative cartridge cap. Use a small flat-blade screw driver to remove the
retaining screws. Then lift the cartridge from the …..
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