Read before use.
GETTING READY
SEWING BASICS
Read when additional
information is required.
UTILITY STITCHES
APPENDIX
Computerized Sewing Machine
Product Code: 885-U20
Operation Manual
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the
machine unattended.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
2 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when making any adjustments mentioned
in the instruction manual:
• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp
the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
• Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.
3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest
authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
• While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such as an odor, heat,
discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord.
• When transporting the machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the machine by any other
part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could cause injuries.
• When lifting the machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements, otherwise
you may injure your back or knees.
4 Always keep your work area clear:
• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot controller.
• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine,
power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
• Do not place this machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table,
otherwisethe machine may fall, resulting in injuries.
5 Special care is required when sewing:
• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
1
• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments
in the needle area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand
stitching so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
6 This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• Do not use outdoors.
• The plastic bag that this machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of children or
disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of suffocation.
7 For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,
needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.
8 For repair or adjustment:
• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem
persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.
For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended for household use.
This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory
or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a person responsible for their safety.
Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you
should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.
2
Contents
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ............................................................................... 1
Contents .............................................................................................................................. 3
Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 6
Sewing Machine Features .................................................................................................... 6
Accessories .......................................................................................................................... 7
Included accessories ......................................................................................................................................... 7
Optional accessories ......................................................................................................................................... 8
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ..................................................................... 9
Front view ......................................................................................................................................................... 9
Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 10
Right-side/rear view ........................................................................................................................................ 10
Operation buttons ........................................................................................................................................... 11
Operation panel .............................................................................................................................................. 12
GETTING READY ............................................................................................13
Turning the Machine On/Off ............................................................................................. 14
Power supply precautions ............................................................................................................................... 14
Turning on the machine .................................................................................................................................. 15
Turning off the machine .................................................................................................................................. 15
Winding/Installing the Bobbin ........................................................................................... 16
Bobbin precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 16
Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................ 16
Installing the bobbin ....................................................................................................................................... 20
Upper Threading ............................................................................................................... 22
Threading the upper thread ............................................................................................................................. 22
Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 25
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader) ................................................................ 26
Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 27
Pulling up the bobbin thread ........................................................................................................................... 29
Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................ 30
Needle precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 30
Needle types and their uses ............................................................................................................................. 30
Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 31
Replacing the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 32
Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................ 33
Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 33
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................... 33
Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot ........................................................................................................ 34
Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................... 35
Using the optional walking foot ...................................................................................................................... 35
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces .................................................................................... 37
Stitching cylindrical pieces .............................................................................................................................. 37
Sewing large pieces of fabric ........................................................................................................................... 37
SEWING BASICS .............................................................................................39
Sewing ............................................................................................................................... 40
General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 40
Positioning the fabric ...................................................................................................................................... 41
Starting to sew ................................................................................................................................................. 42
Securing the stitching ...................................................................................................................................... 44
Cutting the thread ........................................................................................................................................... 45
3
———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................ 46
Changing the tension of the upper thread ........................................................................................................ 46
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length .............................................................................. 47
Adjusting the stitch width ................................................................................................................................ 47
Adjusting the stitch length ............................................................................................................................... 48
Useful Functions ................................................................................................................ 49
Changing the needle stop position .................................................................................................................. 49
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches ....................................................................................... 49
Changing the initial needle stop position ......................................................................................................... 50
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................ 51
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 51
Changing the sewing direction ........................................................................................................................ 51
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................. 51
Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................ 52
Sewing thin fabrics .......................................................................................................................................... 53
Sewing stretch fabrics ...................................................................................................................................... 53
Sewing an even seam allowance ..................................................................................................................... 53
Sewing hook-and-loop fasteneeerer ................................................................................................................ 54
UTILITY STITCHES ..........................................................................................55
Selecting Stitching ............................................................................................................. 56
Selecting stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 56
Overcasting Stitches .......................................................................................................... 58
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ................................................................................... 58
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J” ............................................................................................. 59
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ............................................................................... 60
Basic Stitching ...................................................................................................................62
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................. 62
Blind Hem Stitching .......................................................................................................... 63
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing .................................................................................. 65
Buttonhole sewing .......................................................................................................................................... 66
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 69
Zipper Insertion ................................................................................................................. 72
Inserting a centered zipper .............................................................................................................................. 72
Inserting a side zipper ..................................................................................................................................... 73
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................ 76
Stretch stitching ............................................................................................................................................... 76
Elastic attaching .............................................................................................................................................. 76
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching .......................................................................... 78
Appliqué stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 79
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 80
Piecing ............................................................................................................................................................ 80
Quilting .......................................................................................................................................................... 81
Free-motion quilting ........................................................................................................................................ 82
Reinforcement Stitching .................................................................................................... 83
Triple stretch stitching ..................................................................................................................................... 83
Bar tack stitching ............................................................................................................................................. 83
Eyelet Stitching .................................................................................................................. 85
Decorative Stitching .......................................................................................................... 86
Fagoting .......................................................................................................................................................... 87
Scallop stitching .............................................................................................................................................. 88
Smocking ........................................................................................................................................................ 88
Joining ............................................................................................................................................................ 89
Heirloom stitching .......................................................................................................................................... 90
4
APPENDIX .......................................................................................................93
Stitch Settings .................................................................................................................... 94
Utility stitches ................................................................................................................................................. 94
Care and Maintenance ....................................................................................................100
Restrictions on oiling ..................................................................................................................................... 100
Cleaning the machine surface ....................................................................................................................... 100
Cleaning the race .......................................................................................................................................... 100
Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................102
Frequent troubleshooting topics .................................................................................................................... 102
Upper thread tightened up ............................................................................................................................ 102
Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric ......................................................................................................... 103
Incorrect thread tension ................................................................................................................................ 105
Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed ............................................................................... 106
When the thread became tangled under the bobbin winder seat ................................................................... 109
List of symptoms ........................................................................................................................................... 111
Error messages .............................................................................................................................................. 115
Operation beep ............................................................................................................................................. 116
Index ...............................................................................................................................117
5
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Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine.
Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the “IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS” (page 1), and
then study this manual for the correct operation of the various functions.
In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be accessed for future
reference.
Sewing Machine Features
1 Easy upper threading
Since the spool can be installed at the front of the sewing machine, the upper thread can easily be threaded. In addition,
the needle can be threaded with a simple operation (page 22).
2 One-touch lower threading
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread (page 20).
3 Simple bobbin-winding
The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread (page 16).
4 Built-in stitches
You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches and decorative stitches (page 56).
6
Accessories
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or damaged,
contact your dealer.
Included accessories
The following items should also be included in the box.
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
● Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this machine
model NX-250.
● The screw for the presser foot holder is available
through your authorized dealer.
(Part code: XA4813-051)
● The organized accessory tray is available through
your authorized dealer.
(Part code: XC4489-051)
1.
2.
3.
4.
14.
10.*
11.
12.
13.
19.
20.
21.
22.
26.
27.
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
Part Name
Buttonhole foot “A”
Overcasting foot “G”
Monogramming foot “N”
Zipper foot “I”
Zigzag foot “J” (on machine)
Blind stitch foot “R”
Button fitting foot “M”
Seam ripper
Bobbin (4)
Needle set
Twin needle
Cleaning brush
Eyelet punch
Screwdriver (large)
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
15.
16.
17.
18.
23.
24.
25.
* 75/11 2 needles
90/14 2 needles
90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle (gold colored)
Part Code
Others
XC2691-023
XE6305-101
XD0810-031
X59370-021
XC3021-031
XE2650-001
XE2643-001
XZ5082-001
SA156 SFB (XA5539-151)
X58358-021
X59296-121
X59476-021
XZ5051-001
XC8349-021
Americas
No.
15
16
17
18
19
20
Part Name
Screwdriver (small)
Spool cap (large)
Spool cap (medium)(2)
Spool cap (small)
Extra spool pin
Spool net
21 Foot controller
22
23
24
25
26
27
Operation manual
Quick reference guide
Hard case
Accessory bag
Disc-shaped screwdriver
Stitch pattern plate
Part Code
Others
X55468-021
130012-024
XE1372-001
130013-124
XC4654-151
XA5523-020
XD0496-221 (EU area)
XC6651-321 (other areas)
XE0433-201
XE0434-001
XC9701-052
XC4487-021
XC1074-051
**
Americas
**Contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
Accessories
7
————————————————————————————————————————————————————
■ Attaching the stitch pattern plate
The stitch pattern plate shows the stitches and the stitch numbers. A letter (A, G, J, N or R) indicating the presser
foot that should be used appears below the stitch number. Attach the stitch pattern plate to the handle as shown
in the illustration below.
Optional accessories
The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
No.
Part Name
Americas
1
Side cutter
SA177
2
Quilting guide
SA132
3
Wide table
SA551
4
Walking foot
SA140
5
Quilting foot
SA129
6
Adjustable zipper/piping foot
SA161
Part Code
Others
F054
(XC3879-152)
F016N
(XC2215-052)
WT5
(XC9567-222)
F033N
(XC2214-052)
F005N
(XC1948-052)
F036N
(XC1970-052)
No.
Part Name
7
Non stick foot
8
Open toe foot
Americas
SA114
SA186
SA147
9
Stitch guide foot “P”
SA160
10 1/4 inch quilting foot
SA125
11 1/4 inch quilting foot with guide
SA185
Part Code
Others
F007N
(XC1949-052)
F060
(XE1094-101)
F027N
(XC1964-052)
F035N
(XC1969-052)
F001N
(XC1944-052)
F057
(XC7416-252)
Memo
● Visit your Brother dealer for a complete listing of optional accessories available for your machine.
8
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before using the
sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.
Front view
2
1
3
4
C
5
B
6
A
0
7
9
8
1 Thread guide plate
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate.
2 Thread guide cover
Pass the thread behind the thread guide cover when
threading the upper thread.
3 Spool pin
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.
4 Bobbin winding thread guide and pretension disk
Pass the thread under this thread guide and around the
pretension disk when winding the bobbin thread.
5 Top cover
Open the top cover to place the spool of thread on the
spool pin.
6 Bobbin winder
Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin.
7 Operation panel
Use for stitch selection and various stitch functions
(pages 12).
8 Operation buttons and sewing speed controller
Use these buttons and the slide to operate the sewing
machine (page 11).
9 Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment
Store presser feet and bobbins in the accessory
compartment of the flat bed attachment. When sewing
cylindrical pieces, remove the flat bed attachment.
0 Thread cutter
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them.
A Needle threader lever
Use the needle threader to thread the needle.
B Thread take-up lever check window
Look through the window to check the position of the
take-up lever.
C Thread tension dial
Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of the
upper thread.
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
9
———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Needle and presser foot
section
Right-side/rear view
1 Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is used with the one-step
buttonhole foot to create buttonholes.
1 Presser foot dial
Use the presser foot dial to adjust the amount of
pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric.
2 Thread guide disk
Pass the thread through the thread guide disk when
using the needle threader to thread the needle.
2 Handle
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.
3 Needle bar thread guide
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread
guide.
3 Handwheel
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise and lower the
needle. The handwheel should be turned towards you
(counterclockwise).
4 Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides to help sew
straight seams.
5 Needle plate cover
Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case
and race.
6 Bobbin cover
Open the bobbin cover to set the bobbin.
7 Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric in the sewing direction.
8 Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure consistently on the
fabric as sewing takes place. Attach the appropriate
presser foot for the selected stitch.
9 Presser foot holder
The presser foot is attached onto the presser foot holder.
4 Air vent
The air vent allows the air surrounding the motor to
circulate. Do not cover the air vent while the sewing
machine is being used.
5 Main power switch
Use the main power switch to turn the sewing machine
ON and OFF.
6 Foot controller jack
Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable
into the foot controller jack.
7 Power supply jack
Insert the plug on the power cord into the power supply
jack.
8 Feed dog position switch
Use the feed dog position switch to lower the feed dogs.
9 Presser foot lever
Raise and lower the presser foot lever to raise and lower
the presser foot.
Memo
● Refer to pages 9 through 12 while you are
learning to use your machine.
10
Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.
1 “Start/Stop” button
Press the “Start/Stop” button to start or stop sewing. The
machine sews at a slow speed at the beginning of
sewing while the button is depressed. When sewing is
stopped, the needle is lowered in the fabric. For details,
refer to “Starting to sew” (page 42).
The button lights up in green, red or orange, depending
on how the sewing machine is being operated.
Green:
When the machine is ready to start
sewing or while it is sewing
Red:
When the machine is not ready to start
sewing
Orange: When the bobbin winder shaft is moved
to the right for winding the bobbin
thread onto the bobbin
2 “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button
Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button to sew
reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse
stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to
sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches
are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.
For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 44).
3 “Needle Position” button
Press the “Needle Position” button to raise or lower the
needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
4 Sewing speed controller
Slide the sewing speed controller to adjust the sewing
speed.
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions
11
———————————————————————————————————————————————————
Operation panel
The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of various buttons and
sliders for specifying how the stitch will be sewn.
0
9
A
1
3
8
4
B
2
7
5
6
1 Stitch width adjustment slider / 2 Stitch width adjustment button
These are used to adjust the width of the stitch or the needle position. After pressing the stitch width adjustment button, use
the stitch width adjustment slider to adjust the stitch width.
3 Stitch length adjustment slider / 4 Stitch length adjustment button
These are used to adjust the length of the stitch. After pressing the stitch length adjustment button, use the stitch length
adjustment slider to adjust the stitch length.
5 Needle mode selection key (single/twin)
Press the needle mode selection key to select the twin needle sewing setting. Each time this key is pressed, the setting
switches between that for single needle sewing and for twin needle sewing.
6 Needle stop position key
This is used to change the position of the needle when the sewing machine is stopped. If the key is lit, the sewing machine
will stop with the needle raised. If the key is not lit, the sewing machine will stop with the needle lowered.
7 Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key
Press the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the
beginning and end of stitching.
8 Stitch selection key
Press the stitch selection key to select the number for the stitch that you wish to use. 80 stitches are available. For details,
refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 56).
9 Stitch indicator
This displays the number, width and length of the currently selected stitch. Press the stitch number display key (0), stitch
width display key (A) or the stitch length display key (B) to display the corresponding information. In addition, error
messages for incorrect operation appear in the stitch indicator.
0 Stitch number display key
Press the stitch number display key to display the number of the currently selected stitch. When the stitch number is
displayed, the stitch number display key lights up.
A Stitch width display key
Press the stitch width display key to display the width of the currently selected stitch. When the stitch width is displayed,
the stitch width display key lights up.
B Stitch length display key
Press the stitch length display key to display the length of the currently selected stitch. When the stitch length is displayed,
the stitch length display key lights up.
12
1
GETTING READY
The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.
Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................14
Power supply precautions ..................................................................................14
Turning on the machine .....................................................................................15
Turning off the machine .....................................................................................15
Winding/Installing the Bobbin ................................................................................16
Bobbin precautions ............................................................................................16
Winding the bobbin ...........................................................................................16
Installing the bobbin ..........................................................................................20
Upper Threading .....................................................................................................22
Threading the upper thread................................................................................22
Threading the needle..........................................................................................25
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)..................26
Using the twin needle ........................................................................................27
Pulling up the bobbin thread..............................................................................29
Replacing the Needle ..............................................................................................30
Needle precautions ............................................................................................30
Needle types and their uses................................................................................30
Checking the needle...........................................................................................31
Replacing the needle ..........................................................................................32
Replacing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................33
Presser foot precautions.....................................................................................33
Replacing the presser foot..................................................................................33
Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot ..........................................................34
Removing the presser foot holder ......................................................................35
Using the optional walking foot .........................................................................35
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces..........................................................................37
Stitching cylindrical pieces.................................................................................37
Sewing large pieces of fabric..............................................................................37
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Turning the Machine On/Off
This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.
Power supply precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.
WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and
the power supply jack on the machine.
● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
•
•
•
•
•
When you are away from the machine
After using the machine
When the power fails during use
When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
During electrical storms
CAUTION
● Use only the power code included with this machine.
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a
fire may result.
14
Turning on the machine
1 off (the main power switch is set to “O”), and
Make sure that the sewing machine is turned
then plug the power cord into the power
supply jack on the right side of the machine.
Insert the plug of the power cord into a
2 household electrical outlet.
Turning off the machine
When you are finished using the sewing machine,
turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing
machine to another location, be sure to turn it off.
1
Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
Press the left side of the main power switch on
2 the right side of the machine (set it to “{”).
1
X The sewing lamp goes off when the
machine is turned off.
Unplug the power cord from the electrical
3 outlet.
1 Power supply jack
Grasp the plug when unplugging the power
cord.
Press the right side of the main power switch
3 on the right side of the machine (set it to “|”).
4 supply jack.
Unplug the power cord from the power
Note
X The sewing lamp comes on when the
machine is turned on.
Memo
● When the machine is turned on, the needle
and the feed dogs will make sound when
they move; this is not a malfunction.
● If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power
cord. When restarting the sewing machine,
follow the necessary procedure to correctly
operate the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
● This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way.
If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact
a qualified electrician to install the proper
outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
Turning the Machine On/Off
15
1
GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.
Bobbin precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.
CAUTION
● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this
sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
● The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539-151)).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model
Other model
Winding the bobbin
Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.
1
1 Bobbin winder
Memo
● The order that the machine should be threaded for winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on
the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.
16
1
Turn on the sewing machine.
Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto
6 the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front
at the bottom.
2
Open the top cover.
• If the spool is not positioned so that the
thread unwinds correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin.
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft
3 so that the spring on the shaft fits into the
7 Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right,
as shown, with the rounded side on the left.
notch in the bobbin.
Press down on the bobbin until it snaps into
place.
1
CAUTION
2
1 Notch
2 Bobbin winder shaft spring
Slide the bobbin winder in the direction of the
4 arrow until it snaps into place.
•
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin and
the needle may break.
● Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small), allowing you to
choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is
too small for the spool being used, the
thread may catch on the slit in the spool
or the machine may be damaged.
(“Start/Stop” button) lights up in orange.
5 spool pin.
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the
1
2
1 Spool pin
2 Spool cap
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
17
1
GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate
9 from the right.
Memo
● When sewing with fine, cross-wound
thread, use the small spool cap, and leave a
small space between the cap and the spool.
b
c
a
1 Spool cap (small)
2 Spool (cross-wound thread)
3 Space
● When using thread that winds off quickly,
such as transparent nylon thread or metallic
thread, place the spool net over the spool
before placing the spool of thread onto the
spool pin.
If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the
size of the spool.
When the spool net is used, the tension of
the upper thread will slightly increase. Be
sure to check the thread tension. For details,
refer to “Changing the tension of the upper
thread” (page 46).
1
1
1 Thread guide plate
0 guide, and then wind it counterclockwise
Pass the thread under the hook on the thread
under the pretension disk.
1
2
2
3
3
1 Thread guide
2 Pretension disk
3 Pull it in as far as possible
4
1
2
3
4
Spool net
Spool
Spool cap
Spool pin
Note
While holding the thread near the spool with
8 your right hand, as shown, pull the thread with
your left hand, and then pass the thread
behind the thread guide cover and to the front.
1
1 Thread guide cover
18
● Make sure that the thread passes under the
pretension disk.
a wind the thread that was pulled out clockwise
While holding the thread with your left hand,
d When the foot controller is plugged in, press
Press
around the bobbin five or six times with your
right hand.
(“Start/Stop” button) once.
down on the foot controller.
1
1
1 “Start/Stop” button
• When the bobbin winding becomes slow,
press
(“Start/Stop” button) once to stop
the machine. When the foot controller is
plugged in, remove your foot from the foot
controller.
Note
● Make sure that the thread between the
spool and the bobbin is pulled tight.
● Be sure to wind the thread clockwise
around the bobbin, otherwise the thread
will become wrapped around the bobbin
winder shaft.
b slit in the bobbin winder seat, and then pull
Pass the end of the thread through the guide
CAUTION
● When the bobbin winding becomes slow,
stop the machine, otherwise the sewing
machine may be damaged.
e wound around the bobbin.
Use scissors to cut the end of the thread
the thread to the right to cut it.
f
1
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left.
1 Guide slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
CAUTION
Memo
● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If
the bobbin is wound without cutting the
thread using the cutter built into the slit
in the bobbin winder seat, the thread
may become tangled in the bobbin and
the needle may bend or break when the
bobbin thread starts to run out.
● If the bobbin winder shaft is set to the right
side, the needle will not move. (Sewing is
impossible.)
g
Remove the bobbin from the shaft.
c to increase the bobbin winding speed and
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
slide to left to decrease.
Memo
1
● When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
bobbin, the machine will make a clicking
sound; this is not a malfunction.
1 Sewing speed controller
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
19
GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————
4
Installing the bobbin
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
Remove the bobbin cover.
5 hold the end of the thread with your left.
Hold the bobbin with your right hand and
CAUTION
● Use a bobbin that has been correctly
wound with thread, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
• Be careful not to drop the bobbin.
6 the end of the thread is on the left, and then,
Insert the bobbin with your right hand so that
● The bobbin was designed specifically for
after pulling the thread firmly around the tab
with your left hand as shown, lightly pull the
thread to guide it through the slit.
this sewing machine. If bobbins from
other models are used, the machine will
not operate correctly. Use only the
included bobbin or bobbins of the same
type (part code: SA156, SFB (XA5539151)).
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model
Other model
1
Memo
● The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure
to thread the machine as indicated.
1 Tab
• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly.
CAUTION
● Be sure to install the bobbin so that the
Press
(“Needle Position” button) once or
1 twice to raise the needle, and then raise the
presser foot lever.
2
Turn off the sewing machine.
3
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
1
2
1 Bobbin cover
2 Latch
X The bobbin cover opens.
20
thread unwinds in the correct direction,
otherwise the thread may break or the
thread tension will be incorrect.
Memo
● The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure
to thread the machine as indicated.
The marks around the bobbin case differ
depending on the model.
Note
● Make sure that the thread is correctly
inserted through the tension-adjusting
spring of the bobbin case. If it is not inserted
correctly, reinsert the thread.
1
1 Tension-adjusting spring
While lightly holding down bobbin with your
7 right hand as shown, guide the thread through
the slit (1 and 2).
• At this time, check that the bobbin easily
rotates counterclockwise.
Then, pull the thread toward you to cut it with
the cutter (3).
Reattach the bobbin cover.
8 Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
2
2
1
3
1
X The lower threading is finished.
Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with
the procedure in “Upper Threading” (page 22).
1 Slit
2 Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)
Memo
● You can begin sewing without pulling up
the bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the
bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull
up the thread according to the procedure in
“Pulling up the bobbin thread” (page 29).
Winding/Installing the Bobbin
21
1
GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————
Upper Threading
In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are described.
CAUTION
● When threading the upper thread,
carefully follow the instructions. If the
upper threading is not correct, the thread
may become tangled and the needle may
bend and break.
Threading the upper thread
Set the spool of thread on the spool pin, and then
thread the machine.
1
Turn on the sewing machine.
2
Raise the presser foot lever.
Memo
● The order that the machine should be
threaded is indicated by a solid line on the
sewing machine. Be sure to thread the
machine as indicated.
a
1 Presser foot lever
Note
● If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded.
22
3
Press
(“Needle Position” button)
once or twice to raise the needle.
Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin.
6 Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front
at the bottom.
1
1
1 “Needle Position” button
• The needle is correctly raised when the mark
on the handwheel is at the top, as shown
below. Check the handwheel and, if this
mark is not at this position, press
(“Needle Position” button) until it is.
CAUTION
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin and
the needle may break.
1
Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.
7 Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right,
as shown, with the rounded side on the left.
1 Mark on handwheel
4
Open the top cover.
CAUTION
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
5 spool pin.
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the
1
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin and
the needle may break.
● Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small), allowing you to
choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is
too small for the spool being used, the
thread may catch on the slit in the spool
and the needle may break.
2
1 Spool pin
2 Spool cap
Upper Threading
23
GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————
While holding the thread lightly with your
8 right hand, pull the thread with your left
hand, and then pass the thread behind the
thread guide cover and to the front.
1
Note
● If the presser foot has been lowered and the
shutter is closed, the machine cannot be
threaded. Be sure to raise the presser foot
and open the shutter before threading the
machine. In addition, before removing the
upper thread, be sure to raise the presser
foot and open the shutter.
● This machine is equipped with a window
that allows you to check the position of the
take-up lever. Look through this window
and check that the thread is correctly fed
through the take-up lever.
1 Thread guide cover
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate,
9 and then pull it up.
1
a guide.
Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread
1 Thread guide plate
While using your right hand to lightly hold the
0 thread passed under the thread guide plate,
The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the thread
in your left hand, then feeding the thread with
your right hand, as shown.
pass the thread through the thread path in the
order shown below.
1
1
1 Needle bar thread guide
1 Shutter
24
Next, use the needle threader to thread the
needle. Continue with the procedure in
“Threading the needle” (page 25).
Threading the needle
Note
This section describes how to thread the needle.
Note
● The needle threader can be used with
sewing machine needles 75/11 through
100/16.
● The needle threader cannot be used with
the wing needle or the twin needle.
● If the needle threader cannot be used, refer
to “Threading the needle manually (without
using the needle threader)” (page 26).
● If the thread is pulled through and cannot
be cut correctly, lower the presser foot so
that the thread is held in place before
cutting the thread. If this operation is
performed, skip step 3.
● When using thread that quickly winds off the
spool, such as metallic thread, it may be
difficult to thread the needle if the thread is cut.
Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter,
pull out about 80 mm (approx. 3 inches) of
thread after passing it through the thread
guide disks (marked “7”).
1 passed through the needle bar thread guide,
Pull the end of the thread, which has been
to the left, then pass the thread through the
notch of the thread guide 1, and then firmly
pull the thread from the front and insert it into
the slit of the thread guide disk marked “7” all
the way 2. Make sure that the thread passes
the notch of the thread guide.
1
1 80 mm (3 inches) or more
3 presser foot.
Lower the presser foot lever to lower the
1
2 1
1 Presser foot lever
Lower the needle threader lever on the left
4 side of the machine until it clicks, and then
2
1
1 Notch of the thread guide
2 Thread guide disk
slowly return the lever to its original position.
1
Cut the thread with the cutter on the left side
2 of the machine.
1
1 Needle threader lever
X The thread is passed through the eye of the
needle.
1 Cutter
Upper Threading
25
1
GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————
Note
● If the needle was not completely threaded,
but a loop in the thread was formed in the
eye of the needle, carefully pull the loop
through the eye of the needle to pull out the
end of the thread.
Threading the needle manually
(without using the needle threader)
When using specialty thread, such as transparent
nylon thread or metallic thread, a wing needle or a
twin needle which cannot be used with the needle
threader, thread the needle as described below.
Thread the machine to the needle bar thread
1 guide.
• For details, refer to “Upper Threading”
(page 22).
2
Lower the presser foot lever.
CAUTION
● When pulling out the thread, do not pull
it with extreme force, otherwise the
needle may break or bend.
1
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of
5 the thread through the presser foot, and then
pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread
toward the rear of the machine.
1 Presser foot lever
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
3 from front to back.
1
1 5 cm (2 inches)
X The upper threading is finished.
Now that the upper threading and the lower
threading are finished, you are ready to
begin sewing.
CAUTION
● Do not touch the
Note
● If the needle is not raised, the needle
threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure
to press
(“Needle Position” button) to
raise the needle before using the needle
threader.
button),
(“Start/Stop”
(“Needle Position” button)
or
(“Reverse/Reinforcement stitch”
button). If one of the buttons is
accidentally pressed, the machine will
begin sewing and your finger may be
pricked with the needle or the needle
may break.
Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of
4 the thread through the presser foot, and then
pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread
toward the rear of the machine.
26
Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin
Using the twin needle
With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines
of the same stitch with two different threads. Both
upper threads should have the same thickness and
quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra
spool pin and the spool cap.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the
twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 94).
4 winder shaft.
Insert the extra spool pin so that it is
perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft.
1
1
1 Bobbin winder shaft
Swing down the spool pin so that it is
5 horizontal.
CAUTION
● Only use the twin needle (part code:
X59296-151). Use of any other needle
may bend the needle or damage the
machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Install the twin needle.
1 • For details on installing a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 32).
Thread the upper thread for the left needle
2 eye.
• For details, refer to steps 1 through a of
“Threading the upper thread” (page 22).
3 upper thread.
Place the upper thread spool for the needle on
6 the right side onto the extra spool pin, and
then secure it with the spool cap.
The thread should unroll from the top front of
the spool.
1
2
Manually thread the left needle with the
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.
1 Spool cap
2 Spool
Thread the upper thread for the right side in
7 the same way that the upper thread for the left
side was threaded.
1
• The needle threader cannot be used with the
twin needle. If the needle threader is used
with the twin needle, the sewing machine
may be damaged.
1 Thread guide cover
• For details, refer to step 8 through 0 of
“Threading the upper thread” (page 22).
Upper Threading
27
GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————
Without passing the thread through the
8 needle bar thread guide, manually thread the
b
Press
(Needle mode selection key).
right needle.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.
X
• The needle threader cannot be used with the
twin needle. If the needle threader is used
with the twin needle, the sewing machine
may be damaged.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
9 • For details on changing the presser foot, refer
to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.
(Needle mode selection key) lights up,
and the twin needle can now be used.
• To return to single needle sewing, press
(Needle mode selection key) until the key is
no longer lit.
• Even after the sewing machine is turned off,
the twin needle setting is not cancelled.
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
select an appropriate stitch, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine
may be damaged.
c • For details on starting to sew, refer to
Start sewing.
“Starting to sew” (page 42).
0
Turn on the sewing machine.
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
each other.
Select a stitch.
a • For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 56).
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 94).
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
28
CAUTION
● When changing the sewing direction,
press
(“Needle Position” button) to
raise the needle from the fabric, and then
raise the presser foot lever and turn the
fabric. Otherwise the needle may break
or the machine may be damaged.
● Do not try turning the fabric with the twin
needle left down in the fabric, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.
Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of the bobbin
Pulling up the bobbin thread
When making gathers or before free-motion quilting,
first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.
5 thread under the presser foot toward the rear
of the machine.
1
Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.
1 • Refer to steps 1 through 5 of “Installing the
bobbin” (page 20).
2 Do not cut the thread with the cutter.
Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.
6 Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
Reattach the bobbin cover.
bobbin cover, and then lightly press down on
the right side.
3
While lightly holding the upper thread with
your left hand with the needle in the upposition, press
(“Needle Position”
button) twice to lower and raise the needle.
2
1
1
1 “Needle Position” button
X The bobbin thread is looped around the
upper thread and can be pulled up.
Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull
4 out the end of the bobbin thread.
Upper Threading
29
GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————
Replacing the Needle
This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to
read and carefully follow the instructions below.
CAUTION
● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or
damage the machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
Needle types and their uses
The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.
Fabric Type/Application
Medium weight
fabrics
Thin fabrics
Thick fabrics
Stretch fabrics
Thread
Type
Broadcloth
Cotton thread
Taffeta
Synthetic thread
Flannel, Gabardine
Silk thread
Lawn
Cotton thread
Georgette
Synthetic thread
Challis, Satin
Silk thread
Denim
Cotton thread
Corduroy
Synthetic thread
Tweed
Silk thread
Jersey
Tricot
Thread for knits
Cotton thread
Easily frayed fabrics
For top-stitching
30
Synthetic thread
Size
60–90
Size of Needle
75/11–90/14
50
60–90
65/9–75/11
50
30
100/16
50
50–60
50–60
50–90
90/14–100/16
Ball point needle
75/11–90/14
(gold colored)
65/9–90/14
Silk thread
50
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
30
100/16
50–60
75/11–90/14
Note
● Never use a thread of weight 20 or lower. It
may cause malfunctions.
Memo
● The smaller the thread number, the thicker
the thread, and the larger the needle
number, the thicker the needle.
● Use the ball point needle when sewing on
stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped
stitches easily occur.
● Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with
transparent nylon threads, regardless of the
fabric being sewn.
CAUTION
● The appropriate fabric, thread and
needle combinations are shown in the
table on page 30. If the combination of
the fabric, thread and needle is not
correct, particularly when sewing thick
fabrics (such as denim) with thin needles
(such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may
bend or break. In addition, the stitching
may be uneven or puckered or there may
be skipped stitches.
Checking the needle
Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous
since the needle may break while the machine is
being operated.
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
between the needle and the flat surface is even.
1
2
1 Flat side
2 Needle type marking
■ Correct needle
1
1 Flat surface
■ Incorrect needle
If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use
a bent needle.
1
1 Flat surface
Replacing the Needle
31
1
GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————
Hold the needle with your left hand, and then
Replacing the needle
Replace the needle as described below. Use the
screwdriver and a needle that has been determined
to be straight according to the instructions in
“Checking the needle”.
Press
5 use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp
screw toward you (counterclockwise) to
remove the needle.
1
(“Needle Position” button) once
1 or twice to raise the needle.
1
2
1 Screwdriver
2 Needle clamp
screw
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
1 “Needle Position” button
2
Turn off the sewing machine.
With the flat side of the needle toward the
6 rear of the machine, insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper.
1
CAUTION
● Before replacing the needle, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if
(“Start/Stop”
button) is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
Place fabric or paper under the presser foot to
3 cover the hole in the needle plate.
1 Needle stopper
While holding the needle with your left hand,
7 use the screwdriver to tighten the needle
clamp screw.
Note
● Before replacing the needle, cover the hole
in the needle plate with fabric or paper to
prevent the needle from falling into the
machine.
4
Install the twin needle in the same way.
Lower the presser foot lever.
CAUTION
● Be sure to insert the needle until it
1
1 Presser foot lever
32
touches the needle stopper and securely
tighten the needle clamp screw with the
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
break or damage may result.
Replacing the Presser Foot
The presser foot presses down on the fabric.
1
Presser foot precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the presser feet.
CAUTION
● Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the
needle may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
● Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine. Use of any other presser
foot may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
Replacing the presser foot
Replace the presser foot as described below.
Press
(“Needle Position” button) once
1 or twice to raise the needle.
CAUTION
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if
(“Start/Stop”
button) is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.
3
Raise the presser foot lever.
1
1 “Needle Position” button
a
X The needle is raised.
2
Turn off the sewing machine.
1 Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
4 presser foot holder.
Press the black button at the back of the
a
b
1 Black button
2 Presser foot holder
X The presser foot holder releases the presser
foot.
Replacing the Presser Foot
33
GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————
Place a different presser foot below the holder
5 so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the
Note
notch in the holder.
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating
the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is
positioned to be read.
● For details on the presser foot that should be
used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 94).
1
Adjusting the pressure of
the presser foot
J
2
4
3
1
2
3
4
The presser foot pressure (the amount of pressure
applied to the fabric by the presser foot) can be
adjusted.
1
Presser foot holder
Notch
Pin
Presser foot type
Lower the presser foot lever.
6 presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the
Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the
presser foot holder.
1
1 Presser foot lever
2 of the machine to adjust the pressure of the
Turn the presser foot pressure dial at the back
presser foot.
The scale on the dial indicates the range from
1 (weak) to 4 (strong). Turn the dial to the right
(smaller number) to decrease the pressure.
Turn the dial to the left (larger number) to
increase the pressure.
1
2
a
3
1
2
3
4
b
4
Presser foot lever
Presser foot holder
Notch
Pin
X The presser foot is attached.
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
7 presser foot is securely attached.
1 Strong
2 Weak
When you are finished sewing, reset the dial
3 to 3 (standard).
34
Removing the presser foot
holder
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the
quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the
presser foot holder.
■ Removing the presser foot holder
Using the optional walking
foot
With the walking foot, both pieces of fabric are fed
evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser
foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard
to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing
fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when
quilting.
Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot.
Remove the presser foot.
1 • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot
2 holder screw.
■ Attaching the walking foot
Note
b
a c
1 Screwdriver
2 Presser foot holder
3 Presser foot holder screw
■ Attaching the presser foot holder
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
1 left side of the presser bar.
● Thread the needle manually when using the
walking foot, or only attach the walking foot
after threading the needle using the needle
threader.
Remove the presser foot holder.
1 • For details, refer to “Removing the presser
foot holder” (at the left).
Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot
2 onto the needle clamp screw.
a
b
Hold the presser foot holder in place with
2 your right hand, and then tighten the screw
using the screwdriver in your left hand.
1 Connecting fork
2 Needle clamp screw
Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser
3 foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw
with the screwdriver.
1
1 Screwdriver
a
Note
● If the presser foot holder is not correctly
installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.
1 Presser foot holder screw
Replacing the Presser Foot
35
1
GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————
3
CAUTION
Raise the presser foot lever.
● Be sure to securely tighten the screw
with the screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot,
causing it to bend or break.
● Before starting to sew, slowly turn the
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise)
and check that the needle does not touch
the presser foot. If the needle hits the
presser foot, the needle may bend or break.
a
1 Presser foot lever
X The presser foot is raised.
With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot
4 holder screw, and then remove the walking
Note
foot.
● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.
■ Removing the walking foot
Press
a
(“Needle Position” button) once
1 or twice to raise the needle.
1 Presser foot holder screw
Attach the presser foot holder.
5 • For details, refer to “Removing the presser
1
1 “Needle Position” button
X The needle is raised.
2
Turn off the sewing machine.
foot holder” (page 35).
Memo
● Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement
stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used
with the walking foot. For details on the
stitches, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 94).
Note
● The optional walking foot is available
through your Brother dealer.
36
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces
When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.
Stitching cylindrical pieces
Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to
sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs.
1
1
Sewing large pieces of fabric
The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces
of fabric easier.
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide
1 table.
Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.
X With the flat bed attachment removed, freearm sewing is possible.
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
2 arm, and then sew from the top.
2
When you are finished with free-arm sewing,
3 install the flat bed attachment back in its
original position.
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
X With the flat bed attachment removed, freearm sewing is possible.
Install the wide table.
3 Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into
place. The lower right corner section of the
wide table extends over the front section of the
sewing machine bed.
b
a
1 Lower right corner
2 Sewing machine bed
Note
● The optional wide table is available through
your Brother dealer.
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces
37
GETTING READY —————————————————————————————————————————————
Turn the screw at the bottom of each leg to
4 adjust their height so the wide table will be
level with the sewing machine bed.
CAUTION
● Do not move the sewing machine while
the wide table is attached, otherwise
damage or injuries may occur.
When you are finished using the wide table,
5 remove it.
While slightly lifting up the wide table, pull it
off to the left.
6 original position.
Install the flat bed attachment back in its
Memo
● With the legs folded up, the wide table can
be stored attached to the hard case.
38
2
SEWING BASICS
The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.
Sewing.....................................................................................................................40
General sewing procedure .................................................................................40
Positioning the fabric .........................................................................................41
Starting to sew ...................................................................................................42
Securing the stitching.........................................................................................44
Cutting the thread ..............................................................................................45
Adjusting the Thread Tension..................................................................................46
Changing the tension of the upper thread ..........................................................46
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length....................................................................47
Adjusting the stitch width ..................................................................................47
Adjusting the stitch length..................................................................................48
Useful Functions .....................................................................................................49
Changing the needle stop position .....................................................................49
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches ........................................49
Changing the initial needle stop position ...........................................................50
Useful Sewing Tips ..................................................................................................51
Trial sewing........................................................................................................51
Changing the sewing direction ...........................................................................51
Sewing curves ....................................................................................................51
Sewing thick fabrics ...........................................................................................52
Sewing thin fabrics.............................................................................................53
Sewing stretch fabrics ........................................................................................53
Sewing an even seam allowance ........................................................................53
Sewing hook-and-loop fastener ..........................................................................54
SEWING BASICS
————————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.
CAUTION
● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,
keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise
injuries may occur.
● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the
needle may break.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● Make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle may break or
bend.
General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.
1
Turn on the
machine.
Turn on the sewing machine.
For details on turning on the machine, refer to “Turning on the machine”
(page 15).
↓
2
Select the stitch.
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn.
For details on selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 56).
↓
3
Attach the presser
foot.
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch.
For details on replacing the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
↓
4
Position the fabric.
Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric
pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of
the fabric are aligned correctly.
For details on positioning the fabric, refer to “Positioning the fabric”
(page 41).
↓
5
Start sewing.
Start sewing.
For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 42).
↓
6
40
Cut the thread.
Cut the thread at the end of sewing.
For details on cutting the thread, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 45).
Positioning the fabric
Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct
order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric
are aligned correctly.
1
Turn on the sewing machine.
5
2
Lower the presser foot lever.
The straight stitch (left needle position) is
automatically selected.
2 or twice to raise the needle.
Press
(“Needle Position” button) once
1
1 Presser foot lever
X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.
1
1 “Needle Position” button
3
Place the fabric under the presser foot.
• If the seam allowance is positioned on the
right side, sewing in a straight line is easier
and the extra fabric does not get in the way.
4 fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel
While holding the end of the thread and the
toward you (counterclockwise) with your
right hand to lower the needle to the starting
point of the stitching.
Memo
● To adjust the pressure that the presser foot
applies to the fabric, refer to “Adjusting the
pressure of the presser foot” (page 34).
Sewing
41
SEWING BASICS
—————————————————————————————————————————————
3
Starting to sew
Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the
sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted
using either the sewing speed controller or the foot
controller.
When the end of the stitching is reached,
press
(“Start/Stop” button) once.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
down (in the fabric).
When you are finished sewing, raise the
4 needle, and then cut the threads.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 45).
Note
● When the foot controller is plugged in,
(“Start/Stop” button) cannot be used to
start sewing.
■ Using the foot controller
Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot
controller.
■ Using the operation buttons
Sewing can be started and stopped using the
operation button
(“Start/Stop” button).
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
1 right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
1
1 Sewing speed controller
2
Press
(“Start/Stop” button) once.
Turn off the sewing machine.
1 When connecting the foot controller, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine in order to
prevent the machine from accidentally being
started.
Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on
2 the side of the sewing machine.
1
1
1 “Start/Stop” button
X The machine starts sewing.
1 Foot controller jack
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
● Foot controller: Model N5V
This foot controller can be used on this
machine model NX-250.
• If you continue to hold
(“Start/Stop”
button) pressed immediately after the sewing
starts, the machine will sew at a slow speed.
42
3
Turn on the sewing machine.
When you are finished sewing, raise the
7 needle, and then cut the threads.
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
(page 45).
Memo
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or
4 right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.
1
● If
(Needle stop position key) is lit, the
sewing machine will stop with the needle
raised. If the key is not lit, the sewing
machine will stop with the needle lowered.
The needle position setting selected with
the needle stop position key does not
change if the sewing machine is turned off.
● When the foot controller is plugged in,
(“Start/Stop” button) cannot be used to start
sewing.
CAUTION
● Do not allow thread or dust to accumulate
1 Sewing speed controller
• The speed set using the sewing speed
controller will be the foot controller’s
maximum sewing speed.
Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly
5 press down on the foot controller.
Pressing down on the foot controller increases
the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the
foot controller decreases the sewing speed.
in the foot controller, otherwise a fire or
an electric shock may occur.
● Do not place objects on the foot controller,
otherwise damage to the machine or
injuries may occur.
● If the machine is not to be used for a long
period of time, unplug the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.
Slower
Faster
• Slowly press down on the foot controller.
Pressing it down hard starts sewing too quickly.
X The machine starts sewing.
When the end of the stitching is reached,
6 completely release the foot controller.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
lowered (in the fabric).
Sewing
43
2
SEWING BASICS
—————————————————————————————————————————————
After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press
Securing the stitching
3 (“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button).
Keep
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button) held down until you reach the
beginning of the stitching.
When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at
the end of an opening or where seams do not
overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement
stitching to secure the end of the thread.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
1 beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
presser foot lever.
1
1 “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button
X While
(“Reverse/Reinforcement
Stitch” button) is held down, reverse stitches
are sewn.
4 stitching, release
After sewing back to the beginning of the
(“Reverse/
Reinforcement Stitch” button).
Press
(“Start/Stop” button) or press down
2 on the foot controller.
(“Start/Stop” button) is held
At this time, if
down, the machine sews at a low speed.
X The machine stops sewing.
Press
(“Start/Stop” button), or press down
5 on the foot controller.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
1
1 “Start/Stop” button
• For details, refer to refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 42).
X The machine starts sewing.
6
When the end of the stitching is reached, press
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button).
Keep
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button) held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches
are sewn.
X While
(“Reverse/Reinforcement
Stitch” button) is held down, reverse stitches
are sewn.
44
After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button).
7 release
X The machine stops sewing.
Press
(“Start/Stop” button), or press down
8 on the foot controller.
Cutting the thread
When you have finished sewing, cut the threads.
When you wish to finish the stitching and the
1 sewing machine is stopped, press
(“Needle Position” button) once to raise the
needle.
At this time, if
(“Start/Stop” button) is held
down, the machine sews at a slow speed.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction.
2
After sewing to the end of the stitching, the
9 sewing machine stops.
1
Press
(“Start/Stop” button) or release foot
controller.
1 “Needle Position” button
1
• The needle is raised.
3
1
2
Raise the presser foot lever.
2
a
5
4
6
2
Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,
3 and then pass the threads through the thread
1 Beginning of stitching
2 End of stitching
■ Sewing reinforcement stitches
When sewing stitches other than straight or zigzag
stitches that are secured with reverse stitching,
pressing
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5 stitches
on top of each other.
1
1 Presser foot lever
2
cutter to cut them.
1
1 Thread cutter
1 Reverse stitching
2 Reinforcement stitching
Memo
● Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that
is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 94).
Sewing
45
SEWING BASICS
—————————————————————————————————————————————
Adjusting the Thread Tension
The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they are equal.
Changing the tension of the
upper thread
Turn the thread tension dial to the left to loosen
the upper thread.
You may need to change the thread tension,
depending on the fabric and thread being used.
■ Correct thread tension
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should
cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper
thread should be visible from the right side of the
fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be
visible from the wrong side of the fabric.
Note
● If the upper thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too
loose. In this case, refer to “Upper
Threading” (page 22) and rethread the
upper thread.
1
2
3
1
2
3
4
■ Upper thread is too loose
If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.
5
4
1
Wrong side of fabric
Right side of fabric
Upper thread
Bobbin thread
2
■ Upper thread is too tight
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side
of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.
Note
● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too tight.
In this case, refer to “Installing the bobbin”
(page 20) and rethread the bobbin thread.
3
1
2
3
4
5
4
Wrong side of fabric
Right side of fabric
Upper thread
Bobbin thread
The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of
the fabric.
Turn the thread tension dial to the right to tighten
the upper thread.
1
2
3
1
2
3
4
5
46
5
4
Wrong side of fabric
Right side of fabric
Upper thread
Bobbin thread
The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
the fabric.
Note
● If the upper thread is not threaded correctly
or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it
may not be possible to set the correct thread
tension. If the correct thread tension cannot
be achieved, rethread the upper thread and
insert the bobbin correctly.
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length
The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitch is
selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of values within
which the width and length can be set, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 94).
Adjusting the stitch width
The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to
make the stitch wider or narrower.
■ Changing the needle position
With the straight stitch (left needle position) and
the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be
adjusted. Sliding the stitch width adjustment
slider up moves the needle to the right; sliding the
slider down moves the needle to the left.
Note
● When
(Stitch width display key) is
pressed, the currently specified stitch width
(needle position for the straight stitch (left
needle position) or triple stretch stitch)
appears in the stitch indicator. This allows
the specified setting to be checked while it
is being changed.
• To automatically select the stitch width most
appropriate for the selected stitch, press the
stitch width adjustment button again.
CAUTION
1
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
1 Stitch width display key
When the stitch width is displayed, stitch
width display key lights up.
turn the handwheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
Press the stitch width adjustment button in
1 the operation panel.
X The stitch width adjustment button lights up.
Slide the stitch width adjustment slider up and
2 down.
Sliding the stitch width adjustment slider up
makes the stitch width wider; sliding the slider
down makes the stitch width narrower.
1
2
1 Stitch width adjustment slider
2 Stitch width adjustment button
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length
47
2
SEWING BASICS
—————————————————————————————————————————————
Adjusting the stitch length
The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch
longer or shorter.
Note
● When
(Stitch length display key) is
pressed, the currently specified stitch length
appears in the stitch indicator. This allows
the specified setting to be checked while it
is being changed.
1
1 Stitch length display key
When the stitch length is displayed, stitch
length display key lights up.
Press the stitch length adjustment button in
1 the operation panel.
X The stitch length adjustment button lights up.
2 down.
Slide the stitch length adjustment slider up or
Sliding the stitch length adjustment slider up
lengthens the stitch; sliding the slider down
shortens the stitch.
1
3
4
2
1
2
3
4
Stitch length adjustment slider
Stitch length adjustment button
Straight stitch
Zigzag stitch
• To automatically select the stitch length most
appropriate for the selected stitch, press the
stitch length adjustment button again.
48
CAUTION
● If the stitches are bunched together,
increase the stitch length. Continuing to
sew with the stitches bunched together
may result in the needle bending or
breaking.
Useful Functions
Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.
Changing the needle
stop position
The sewing machine can be set to leave the needle
in the fabric (lowered needle stop position) or leave
the needle raised (raised needle stop position) when
sewing is stopped.
Press
(Needle stop position key) in the
operation panel to switch between the two settings.
Automatically sewing reverse/
reinforcement stitches
The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew
reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning
and end of the stitching.
Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches
are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected. For
details, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 94).
1
Select a stitch.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 56).
2
■ For the raised needle stop position
Press
(Automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitch key) in the operation panel.
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
(Needle stop position key) is lit.
■ For the lowered needle stop position
(Needle stop position key) is not lit.
• When the sewing machine is purchased, it is
set to the lowered needle stop position.
Memo
● The needle stop position setting does not
change if the sewing machine is turned off.
X
(Automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitch key) lights up.
• To cancel automatic reverse/reinforcement
stitching, press
(Automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitch key) until the key is no
longer lit.
• When the sewing machine is turned off, the
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
setting is cancelled.
Useful Functions
49
2
SEWING BASICS
—————————————————————————————————————————————
Position the fabric under the presser foot, and
(“Start/Stop” button) once.
3 then press
Changing the initial needle
stop position
The needle position when the machine is turned on
can be switched between a position on the left or at
the center.
While holding pressed the
for the first digit
1 (tens) from the stitch selection keys, turn on
1
the sewing machine.
1 “Start/Stop” button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the machine starts sewing.
4
After reaching the end of the stitching, press
(“Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch”
button) once.
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
1
1
1 Up key for the first digit (tens) from the stitch
selection keys
X The needle position switches between that
on the left and that at the center.
• Each time the operation described in step 1
is performed, the needle position switches
between that on the left and that at the
center.
Memo
1 “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the sewing machine stops.
Memo
● Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT
be sewn until
(“Reverse/
Reinforcement Stitch” button) is pressed.
(“Start/Stop” button) may be pressed to
stop stitching when needed such as for
pivoting corners.
50
● As a default, the initial needle stop position
is on the left.
● The specified initial needle stop position is
maintained even after the machine is turned
off.
Useful Sewing Tips
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips when
sewing your project.
Trial sewing
After you have set up the machine with the thread
and needle appropriate for the type of fabric being
sewn, the machine automatically sets the thread
tension and stitch length and width for the stitch that
is selected. However, a trial piece of fabric should be
sewn since, depending on the type of fabric and
stitching being sewn, the desired results may not be
achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
Sewing curves
Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
direction to sew around the curve. For details on
sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to
“Sewing an even seam allowance” (page 53).
2
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
a finer stitch.
Changing the sewing
direction
When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the
1 sewing machine.
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle remained up when the machine
stopped sewing, press
(“Needle Position”
button) to lower the needle.
2 fabric.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
Lower the presser foot lever and continue
3 sewing.
Useful Sewing Tips
51
SEWING BASICS
—————————————————————————————————————————————
Release the presser foot locking pin (black
4 button).
Sewing thick fabrics
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.
X The presser foot remains level, allowing the
fabric to be fed.
X After the seam is sewn, the presser foot will
return to its original angle.
CAUTION
■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does
not feed at the beginning of stitching
The fabric may not feed when thick seams are
being sewn and the presser foot is not level, as
shown below. In this case, use the presser foot
locking pin (black button on the left side of zigzag
foot “J”) so that the presser foot remains level
while sewing, allowing the fabric to be fed
smoothly.
a
1 Sewing direction
1
Raise the presser foot lever.
Align the beginning of stitching, and then
2 position the fabric.
While holding zigzag foot “J” level, hold the
3 presser foot locking pin (black button on the
left side) pressed in, and lower the presser
foot lever.
1
1 Presser foot holding pin (black button)
52
● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed
with too much force, the needle may
bend or break.
Sewing thin fabrics
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this
occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under
the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When
you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
Sewing an even seam
allowance
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam
allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the
edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge
of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser
foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.
1
1
2
1 Stabilizer material or paper
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then
sew without stretching the fabric.
1
1 Seam
2 Presser foot
■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking
The markings on the needle plate show the
distance from the needle position of a seam sewn
with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew
while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with
a marking in the needle plate. The distance
between the markings in the upper scale is
1/8 inch (3 mm) and the distance between the
markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).
5
1 Basting
1
4
2
3
6
1
2
3
4
5
6
Seam
Presser foot
Centimeters
Inches
Needle plate
16 mm (5/8 inch)
Useful Sewing Tips
53
2
SEWING BASICS
—————————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing hook-and-loop
fastener
CAUTION
● Use only the ungummed hook-and-loop
fastener which is for sewing. If the glue is
attached to the needle or the bobbin
hook race, it may cause malfunction.
● If the hook-and-loop fastener is sewn
with the thin needle (65/9-75/11), the
needle may bend or break.
Note
● Before start sewing, baste together the fabric
and the hook-and-loop fastener.
Make sure that the needle passes through the hookand-loop fastener by turning the handwheel and
lower the needle into the hook-and-loop fastener
before sewing. And then, sew the edge of the hookand-loop fastener at a slow speed.
If the needle does not pass through the hook-andloop fastener, replace the needle with the needle for
thick fabrics (page 30).
1 Edge of the hook-and-loop fastener
54
3
UTILITY STITCHES
The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.
Selecting Stitching...................................................................................................56
Selecting stitching ..............................................................................................56
Overcasting Stitches................................................................................................58
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”.....................................58
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J” ..............................................59
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter .................................60
Basic Stitching.........................................................................................................62
Basic stitching ....................................................................................................62
Blind Hem Stitching ................................................................................................63
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing .......................................................................65
Buttonhole sewing..............................................................................................66
Button sewing ....................................................................................................69
Zipper Insertion ......................................................................................................72
Inserting a centered zipper ................................................................................72
Inserting a side zipper ........................................................................................73
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape..................................................................76
Stretch stitching .................................................................................................76
Elastic attaching .................................................................................................76
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ................................................................78
Appliqué stitching ..............................................................................................79
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching .......................................................................80
Piecing ...............................................................................................................80
Quilting..............................................................................................................81
Free-motion quilting...........................................................................................82
Reinforcement Stitching ..........................................................................................83
Triple stretch stitching .......................................................................................83
Bar tack stitching ...............................................................................................83
Eyelet Stitching........................................................................................................85
Decorative Stitching................................................................................................86
Fagoting .............................................................................................................87
Scallop stitching .................................................................................................88
Smocking............................................................................................................88
Joining................................................................................................................89
Heirloom stitching .............................................................................................90
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Selecting Stitching
You can select any of the various types of stitching available.
Selecting stitching
Using the operation panel keys, select the desired
stitch.
Immediately after turning on the machine, the
straight stitch (left needle position) is selected. The
machine can also be set to select the straight stitch
(center needle position). For details, refer to
“Changing the initial needle stop position” (page 50).
The stitch pattern plate shows the stitches and the
stitch numbers. A letter (A, G, J, N or R) indicating
the presser foot that should be used appears below
the stitch number.
1
4
Turn on the sewing machine.
X When the machine is first turned on, “00”
will be displayed.
Press
(Stitch selection key).
5 The number of the selected stitch is displayed.
Each press of
increases the number by one.
After “9” ( “7” for the number on the left) is
reached, the number returns to “0”. Each press
of
decreases the number by one. After “0”
is reached, the number returns to “9” (“7” for
the number on the left).
Pressing
on the right changes the
second digit (ones), and pressing
on the
left changes the first digit (tens).
1 Stitch pattern plate
Determine the stitch that you wish to use.
1 • Refer to the stitch pattern plate.
Determine which presser foot should be used
2 with the selected stitch.
The presser feet are stored in the accessory
compartment.
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 94).
3 • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Attach the presser foot.
foot” (page 33).
56
X The stitch is selected.
If necessary, specify the setting for automatic
6 reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the
stitch length, etc.
• For details on sewing with each of the utility
stitches, begin on page 58.
■ [Example] Selecting stitch 04
Press
.
(Stitch selection key) to
1 select stitch 04.
Select “0” with
or
on the left, and then
select “4” with
or
on the right.
To adjust the stitch width, slide the stitch
2 width adjustment slider up or down.
Press the stitch width adjustment button, and
then slide the stitch width adjustment slider to
adjust the stitch width.
1
2
3
4
To adjust the stitch length, slide the stitch
3 length adjustment slider up or down.
Press the stitch length adjustment button, and
then slide the stitch length adjustment slider to
adjust the stitch length.
1
2
3
4
1
3
2
4
Stitch length adjustment slider
Stitch length adjustment button
Long
Short
3
Memo
● When
(Stitch length display key) or
(Stitch width display key) is pressed,
the currently specified stitch length or width
appears in the stitch indicator.
This allows the specified setting to be
checked while it is being changed.
1
3
2
4
2
Stitch width adjustment slider
Stitch width adjustment button
Wide
Narrow
1
1 Stitch length display key
2 Stitch width display key
When the stitch length is displayed,
(Stitch length display key) lights up. When
the stitch width is displayed,
(Stitch
width display key) lights up.
● For details on adjusting the stitch width and
length, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width
and Length” (page 47).
Selecting Stitching
57
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Overcasting Stitches
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent fabric from fraying. Seven stitches are available for
overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the presser foot that is used.
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”
Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.
Stitch Name Pattern
06
Overcasting
stitch
Preventing fraying in medium
weight and thin fabrics
07
08
1
Application
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics
and fabrics that fray easily
Attach overcasting foot “G”.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Presser
Foot
G
4 presser foot guide.
Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
G
1
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
Select a stitch.
2 • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
3 against the guide of the presser foot, and then
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
lower the presser foot lever.
a
1 Guide
58
1 Needle drop point
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”
Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”.
Stitch Name Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.5–4.0
(1/32–3/16)
04
Preventing fraying (center
baseline/reverse stitching)
3-point
zigzag stitch
05
Preventing fraying in thick fabrics
5.0
and stretch fabrics
(3/16)
Overcasting
stitch
09
Preventing fraying in stretch
fabrics
Zigzag stitch
1
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
5.0
(3/16)
Presser
Foot
J
3
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
1
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
2 • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Select a stitch.
(page 56).
Sew along the edge of the fabric with the
3 needle dropping off the edge at the right.
a
1 Needle drop point
Memo
● For best results when sewing stretch fabrics,
decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For
details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of
the presser foot” (page 34).
1 Needle drop point
Overcasting Stitches
59
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter
Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. The following four
stitches can be used to sew overcasting.
When the side cutter is attached, be sure to use the settings in the ranges listed below.
Stitch Name Pattern
Overcasting
stitch
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
00
Sewing straight stitches while
cutting the fabric
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
06
Preventing fraying in thin and
medium weight fabrics while
cutting the fabric
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
07
Preventing fraying in thick
fabrics while cutting the fabric
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
17
Sewing zigzag stitches while
cutting the fabric
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Presser
Foot
S
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter
4 onto the needle clamp screw.
a
b
Remove the presser foot.
1 • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
Lower the presser foot lever, and then
2 manually thread the needle.
• The needle threader cannot be used. If the
needle threader is used with the side cutter,
the sewing machine may be damaged.
3
1 Connecting fork
2 Needle clamp screw
Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin
5 is aligned with the notch in the presser foot
holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot
lever.
Raise the presser foot lever.
b
a
1 Notch in presser foot holder
2 Pin
X The side cutter is attached.
60
Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
6 side cutter is securely attached.
Position the fabric in the side cutter.
0 The cut in the fabric should be positioned over
the guide plate of the side cutter.
Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,
7 and then pull it out toward the rear of the
sewing machine.
a
1 Guide plate
• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the
fabric will not be cut.
Select a stitch.
8 • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start
a sewing.
3
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long in
9 the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching
is sewn.
• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the
seam allowance will be about 5 mm
(3/16 inch).
1
1 2 cm (3/4 inch)
1
1 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Memo
● The side cutter can cut as much as one layer
of 13-oz. denim.
● After using the side cutter, clean it by
removing any lint or dust.
● If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,
use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to
the cutting edge of the cutter.
● The optional side cutter is available through
your Brother dealer.
Overcasting Stitches
61
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Basic Stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.
Stitch Name Pattern
Straight
stitch (left
needle
position)
Straight
stitch
(center
needle
position)
Triple
stretch
stitch
00
01
02
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Basic stitching and sewing
gathers or pintucks (left baseline/
reverse stitching)
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Basic stitching and sewing
gathers or pintucks (center
baseline/reverse stitching)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Reinforcing seams and sewing
stretch fabrics
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Presser
Foot
J
6 • For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”
When sewing is finished, cut the thread.
Basic stitching
(page 45).
1
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
2
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
3 • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Select a stitch.
■ Changing the needle position
With the straight stitch (left needle position) and
the triple stretch stitch, the needle position can be
adjusted. Sliding the stitch width adjustment slider
up moves the needle to the right; sliding the slider
down moves the needle to the left.
(page 56).
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
4 beginning of the stitching.
Start sewing.
5 • For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 42).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching”
(page 44).
Memo
● The stitch width adjustment button needs to
be lit before using the slider to change the
needle position.
62
Blind Hem Stitching
Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.
Stitch Name Pattern
10
Blind hem
stitch
11
Application
Blind hem stitching on medium
weight fabrics
Blind hem stitching on stretch
fabrics
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
00
(0)
-3 – 3-
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
Presser
Foot
R
3
Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the
1 hem, and then baste it about 5 mm
3
Attach blind hem foot “R”.
(3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric.
R
4
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
2
3
1
4 • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Select a stitch.
(page 56).
1
2
3
4
Wrong side of fabric
Basting stitching
Desired edge of hem
5 mm (3/16 inch)
Position the fabric with the edge of the folded
5 hem against the guide of the presser foot, and
then lower the presser foot lever.
Fold back the fabric along the basting, and
2 then position the fabric with the wrong side
facing up.
2
3
1
2
1
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Fold of hem
3 Guide
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting
Blind Hem Stitching
63
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Adjust the stitch width until the needle
6 slightly catches the fold of the hem.
■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold
If the needle does not catch enough of the
hem fold, move the stitch width adjustment
lever up. This makes the stitch wider to move
the needle closer onto the fold.
1
1
1
2
2
3
2
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
3
• For details on changing the stitch width,
refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and
Length” (page 47).
Sew with the fold of the hem against the
7 presser foot guide.
1 Needle drop point
2 Wider stitch
3 Narrower stitch
■ If the needle catches too much of the hem
fold
If the needle catches too much of the hem
fold, move the stitch width adjustment lever
down. This makes the stitch narrower to
move the needle away from the fold.
8
Remove the basting stitching.
1
2
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
1
2
Memo
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
64
● For best results when sewing stretch fabrics,
decrease the pressure of the presser foot. For
details, refer to “Adjusting the pressure of
the presser foot” (page 34).
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Seven stitches are available for sewing one-step
buttonholes and one stitch for sewing on buttons.
Stitch Name Pattern
Buttonhole
stitch
Buttonsewing stitch
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
40
Horizontal buttonholes on thin
and medium weight fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
41
Buttonholes with bar tacks on
both ends for stabilized fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
42
Buttonholes for stretch or knit
fabrics
6.0
3.0–6.0
(15/64) (1/8–15/64)
1.0
(1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32–1/16)
Buttonholes for stretch fabrics
6.0
3.0–6.0
(15/64) (1/8–15/64)
1.5
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
43
44
Keyhole buttonholes for thick or
plush fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
45
Keyhole buttonholes for medium
weight and thickfabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
46
Horizontal buttonhole for thick
or plush fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
Button sewing
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–4.5
(3/32–3/16)
–
–
48
Presser
Foot
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
3
A
M
65
———————————————————————————————————————————
UTILITY STITCHES
Buttonhole sewing
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.
1
1
1
1 Reinforcement stitching
The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below.
Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position
1 and length of the buttonhole.
2
1
1
2
5
3
4
A
1
2
3
4
5
66
Button guide plate
Presser foot scale
Pin
Marks on buttonhole foot
5 mm (3/16 inch)
1 Marks on fabric
2 Button hole sewing
Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
2 foot “A”, and then insert the button that will
be put through the buttonhole.
■ If the button does not fit in the button guide
plate
Add together the diameter and thickness of
the button, and then set the button guide
plate to the calculated length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct
size.
1
2
3
a
3
1 Do not reduce the gap.
1 Presser foot scale
2 Length of buttonhole
(Diameter + thickness of button)
3 5 mm (3/16 inch)
6
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible.
Example: For a button with a diameter of 15 mm
(9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm (3/8 inch),
the button guide plate should be set to 25 mm
(1 inch) on the scale.
a
1
1 Buttonhole lever
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
2
1 10 mm (3/8 inch)
2 15 mm (9/16 inch)
1
X The size of the buttonhole is set.
3 • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
foot” (page 33).
2
Select a stitch.
4 • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
1 Buttonhole lever
2 Bracket
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
7 your left hand, and then start sewing.
Position the fabric with the front end of the
5 buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks
on the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
lower the presser foot lever.
1
A
2
1 Mark on fabric (front)
2 Red marks on buttonhole foot
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops
Raise the needle and the presser foot lever,
8 remove the fabric, and cut the thread.
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
67
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
9 position.
Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at
0 the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent
■ Changing the density of the stitching
Press the stitch length adjustment button, and
then slide the stitch length adjustment slider
to adjust the stitch length.
1
the stitching from being cut.
1
1 Pin
2
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin
a and open the buttonhole.
1 Stitch length adjustment slider
2 Stitch length adjustment button
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
length” (page 48).
• If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is
too thick), decrease the density of the
stitching.
■ Changing the stitch width
Press the stitch width adjustment button, and
then slide the stitch width adjustment slider
to adjust the stitch width.
1
1 Seam ripper
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch
to make a hole in the rounded end of the
buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut
open the buttonhole.
1
2
1
1 Eyelet punch
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
CAUTION
● When opening the buttonhole with the
seam ripper, do not place your hands in
the cutting direction, otherwise injuries
may result if the seam ripper slips.
68
1 Stitch width adjustment slider
2 Stitch width adjustment button
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 47).
Memo
● Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.
■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a
gimp thread.
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of
1 buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration
so that it fits into the grooves, and then
loosely tie it.
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.
Measure the distance between the holes in the
1 button to be attached.
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
2 drop feed lever, located at the rear of the
machine on the base, to
(to the left as
seen from the rear of the machine).
a
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
2 • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
3
Select stitch 42
or 43
1 Drop feed lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
.
Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the
4 gimp thread.
3
3
Attach button-sewing foot “M”.
Lower the presser foot lever and the
5 buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.
When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp
6 thread to remove any slack.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
4
Select stitch 48
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as
5 the distance between the holes in the button.
Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp
7 thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie it.
With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the
8 gimp thread remaining at the top end of the
buttonhole.
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
69
UTILITY STITCHES
6
———————————————————————————————————————————
Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”.
Start sewing.
8 Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so
that the speed will be slow).
a
1 Button
X The button is held in place.
• When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.
X The sewing machine automatically stops
after sewing reinforcement stitches.
• If additional strength is needed to secure the
button, perform the button-sewing operation
twice.
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
9 bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching
to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it
with the bobbin thread.
Turn the handwheel toward you
7 (counterclockwise) to check that the needle
correctly goes into the two holes of the button.
If it seems as if the needle will hit the button,
remeasure the distance between the holes in
the button. Adjust the stitch width to the
distance between the button holes.
0 slide the drop feed lever to
When you are finished attaching the button,
(to the right
as seen from the rear of the machine) and turn
the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.
a
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the button, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
1 Drop feed lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
Memo
● The feed dog position switch is normally set
to the right side (as seen from the rear of
machine).
● The feed dogs come up when you start
sewing again.
70
■ Attaching a shank to a button
To sew the button with a shank, attach the button
with space between it and the fabric, and then
wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button
securely.
Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”,
1 and then pull the shank lever toward you.
1
1 Shank lever
3
After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread
2 with plenty of excess, wind it around the
thread between the button and the fabric, and
then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning
of the stitching.
Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at
the end and at the beginning of the stitching on
the wrong side of the fabric.
3
Cut off any excess thread.
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing
71
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Zipper Insertion
A zipper can be sewn in place.
Stitch Name Pattern
Straight
stitch
(center needle
position)
01
Application
Attaching zippers
Sewing concealed seams and
pintucks
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Presser
Foot
I
There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side zipper
are described below.
Press open the seam allowance from the
Inserting a centered zipper
3 wrong side of the fabric.
Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted
against each other.
1
2
1
1 Wrong side of fabric
Align the seam with the center of the zipper,
3
4 and then baste the zipper in place.
1 Right side of fabric
2 Stitching
3 End of zipper opening
2
1 stitches up to the zipper opening.
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
• For details, refer to “Basic Stitching”
(page 62).
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
2 edge of the fabric.
1
3
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Basting stitching
3 Zipper
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
5 of zipper foot “I”.
1
1
3
I
2
2
4
1
2
3
4
72
Basting stitching
Reverse stitches
Wrong side of fabric
End of zipper opening
1 Pin on the right side
2 Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
6
Select stitch 01
.
Inserting a side zipper
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
CAUTION
Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use
this type of zipper application for side openings and
back openings.
● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) to check
that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If a different stitch is
selected or the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
7
Topstitch around the zipper.
1
3
1
2
3
3
1 Stitching
2 Right side of fabric
3 End of zipper opening
The following procedure will describe how to stitch
on the left side, as shown in the illustration.
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight
1 stitches up to the zipper opening.
2
4
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
• For details, refer to “Basic Stitching”
(page 62).
Using a basting stitch, continue sewing to the
2 edge of the fabric.
1
1
2
3
4
3
Stitching
Right side of fabric
Basting stitching
End of zipper opening
2
4
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
8
Remove the basting stitching.
1
2
3
4
Basting stitching
Reverse stitches
Wrong side of fabric
End of zipper opening
3 wrong side of the fabric.
Press open the seam allowance from the
1
1 Wrong side of fabric
Zipper Insertion
73
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Press the seam allowance so that the right side
4 (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra
3 mm (1/8 inch).
CAUTION
● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
1
2
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 3 mm (1/8 inch)
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) to check
that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If a different stitch is
selected or the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.
Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the
8 extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base
Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge
5 of the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch),
of the zipper.
and then baste or pin the zipper in place.
2
1
1 Zipper teeth
2 Basting stitching
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin
6 of zipper foot “I”.
If the stitching will be sewn on the right side,
attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of
the zipper foot.
2
1 Pin on the right side
2 Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
74
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the
I
Select stitch 01
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
9 end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
1
7
CAUTION
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever, and then open the
zipper and continue sewing.
Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then
0 baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.
When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the
c end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever, and then open the
zipper and continue sewing.
d
Remove the basting stitching.
1
1 Basting stitching
a of zipper foot “I”.
Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin
If the presser foot holder was attached to the
right pin in step 6, change it to the left pin.
3
1
I
2
1 Pin on the left side
2 Needle drop point
Topstitch around the zipper.
b Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper
opening and align the zipper teeth with the
side of the presser foot.
3
2
1
1
2
3
4
5
4
5
Right side of fabric
End of zipper opening
Reverse stitches
Beginning of stitching
Basting stitching
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Zipper Insertion
75
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.
Stitch Name Pattern
Stretch
stitch
03
3-point
zigzag stitch
05
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Stretch fabrics
1.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Attaching elastic
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Presser
Foot
J
Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.
Stretch stitching
1
Elastic attaching
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
J
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.
1 fabric.
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points
to make sure that the tape is uniformly
positioned on the fabric.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
2
Select stitch 03
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
3
1
Sew the fabric without stretching it.
2
1 Elastic tape
2 Pin
2
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
76
3
Select stitch 05
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
4 stretching the tape so that it is the same length
Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while
as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin
nearest the front of the presser foot with your
right hand.
3
CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch any pins, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape
77
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.
Stitch Name Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
04
Attaching appliqués
(center baseline/reverse stitching)
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
17
Appliqué quilting, free-motion
quilting, satin stitching
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Attaching appliqués
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Attaching appliqués and binding
1.5
(1/16)
0.5–5.0
(1/32–3/16)
1.8
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Attaching appliqués and binding
1.5
(1/16)
0.5–5.0
(1/32–3/16)
1.8
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Piecing straight stitching (with a
seam allowance of 6.5 mm
(1/4 inch) from the right edge of
the presser foot)
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
Presser
Foot
Zigzag stitch
12
Appliqué
stitch
18
19
14
Piecing
straight
stitch
15
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Straight stitch quilting that looks
hand quilting
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Stippling
7.0
(1/4)
1.0–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
22
Joining
stitch
23
Patchwork stitching
24
Mock hand
quilting
stitch
16
Quilting
stippling
20
78
J
Piecing straight stitching (with a
seam allowance of 6.5 mm
1.5
(1/4 inch) from the left edge of the (1/16)
presser foot)
Select a stitch.
5 • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
Appliqué stitching
(page 56).
Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam
1 allowance of between 3 and 5 mm
(1/8 and 3/16 inch).
1
Turn the handwheel toward you
6 (counterclockwise), and then begin sewing
around the edge of the appliqué, making sure
that the needle drops just outside of the
appliqué.
1 Seam allowance
3
Place a pattern made of thick paper or
2 stabilizer on the back of the appliqué, and then
fold over the seam allowance using an iron.
• Remove the thick paper after pressing the
seam allowance.
When sewing around corners, stop the
machine with the needle in the fabric just
outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot
lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to
change the sewing direction.
Turn the fabric over, and then baste or pin it
3 onto the fabric that it will be attached to.
1
1 Basting stitching
4
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
79
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned
Patchwork (crazy quilt)
stitching
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and
1 place it over the lower piece.
4 with the edge of the fabric.
■ For a seam allowance on the right side
Align the right side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch 14
.
1
Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the
2 pattern spans over both pieces.
1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
■ For a seam allowance on the left side
Align the left side of the presser foot with the
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch 15
.
1
1 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
Piecing
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
“piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a
6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from
either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the
1 fabric that you wish to piece together.
2
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
3
Select stitch 14
or 15
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
80
Memo
● To change the width of the seam allowance
(the needle position), adjust the stitch width.
For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 47).
Quilting
Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily
be sewn using the optional walking foot and the
optional quilting guide.
■ Using the optional quilting guide
Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that
are equally spaced.
Note
● Thread the needle manually when using the
walking foot, or only attach the walking foot
after threading the needle using the needle
threader.
● When sewing with the walking foot, sew at
a speed between slow and medium.
● When quilting, use a 90/14 home sewing
machine needle.
● The walking foot can only be used with
straight or zigzag stitch patterns. Reverse
stitches cannot be sewn with the walking
foot. Only select straight or zigzag stitch
patterns with reinforcement stitches. For
details, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 94).
1
Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the
1 hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser
foot holder.
… Walking foot
3
… Presser foot holder
Baste the fabric to be quilted.
Attach the walking foot.
2 • For details, refer to “Using the optional
walking foot” (page 35).
3
Select stitch 15
or 17
Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that
2 the guide aligns with the seam that has
.
already been sewn.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
Place one hand on each side of the presser
4 foot, and hold fabric taut while sewing.
Note
● The optional quilting guide is available
through your Brother dealer.
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching
81
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear
(to the
left as seen from the rear of the machine).
4 of the machine on the base, to
Free-motion quilting
With free-motion quilting, lower the feed dogs (using
the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved
freely in any direction.
The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion
quilting.
a
1 Feed dog position switch
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
X The feed dogs are lowered.
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
1 holder.
• Refer to “Removing the presser foot holder”
(page 35).
2 holder screw.
Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a
5 stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
Secure the quilting foot with the presser foot
6 then move the fabric to follow the pattern.
Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, and
The pin on the quilting foot should be
positioned over the needle clamp screw.
1
Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the
beginning and end of sewing.
1
3
2
1 Pin on quilting foot
2 Presser foot holder screw
3 Needle clamp screw
Hold the quilting foot in place with your right
3 hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder
screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.
1 Pattern
After sewing is finished, slide the drop feed
(to the right as seen from the
rear of the machine) and turn the handwheel
to raise the feed dogs.
7 lever to
• Normally, the drop feed lever is positioned
at the right.
1
a
1 Presser foot holder screw
CAUTION
● Be sure to securely tighten the screws
with the screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot,
causing it to bend or break.
82
1 Drop feed lever
(as seen from the rear of the machine)
Note
● The optional quilting foot is available
through your Brother dealer.
Reinforcement Stitching
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.
Stitch Name Pattern
Application
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser
Foot
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
J
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
0.4
(1/64)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
A
Triple
stretch
stitch
02
Reinforcing the seams of sleeves
and inseams
Bar tack
stitch
47
Reinforcing the ends of openings, 2.0
such as the corners of pockets
(1/16)
3
Triple stretch stitching
Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes
and inseams.
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
Bar tack stitching
Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to
strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at
pocket corners is described below.
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
2
Select stitch 02
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
Determine the desired length of the bar tack.
1 Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
“A” to the desired length. (The distance
between the markings on the presser foot scale
is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
1
Start sewing.
3 • For details, refer to “Starting to sew”
(page 42).
2
3
1 Presser foot scale
2 Length of bar tack
3 5 mm (1/8 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about
28 mm (1–1/8 inches) can be sewn.
Reinforcement Stitching
83
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
2 • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
foot” (page 33).
3
Select stitch 47
1
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
Position the fabric so that the opening of the
4 pocket faces toward you, and then lower the
presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm
(1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening.
2
1 Buttonhole lever
2 Bracket
Gently hold the end of the upper thread in
6 your left hand, and then start sewing.
1
1 2 mm (1/16 inch)
Pass the upper thread down through the hole
in the presser foot.
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
bar tack will not be sewn with the correct size.
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
Raise the presser foot lever, remove the
7 fabric, and cut the threads.
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
8 position.
Memo
a
1 Do not reduce the gap.
5 possible.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
a
1 Buttonhole lever
84
● If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to “Adjusting the
stitch length” (page 48).
Eyelet Stitching
Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm
(1/4, 15/64 and 3/16 inch).
Stitch Name Pattern
Eyelet stitch
1
49
Application
Sewing eyelets, for example, on
belts
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
7.0
(1/4)
7.0, 6.0 or 5.0
(1/4, 15/64
or 3/16)
–
–
5
Presser
Foot
N
Start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
2
Select stitch 49
6 center of the eyelet.
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
Adjust the stitch width to select the desired
3 eyelet size.
6 mm
7 mm
5 mm
(1/4 inch) (15/64 inch) (3/16 inch)
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 47).
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
4 beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
presser foot lever.
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
Memo
● If light weight thread is used, the stitching
may be sparse. If this occurs, sew the eyelet
twice before removing the fabric, one on
top of the other.
Eyelet Stitching
85
3
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Decorative Stitching
The utility stitches contain the following decorative stitches.
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Name Pattern
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/25–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
24
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
13
Shell tuck stitching on collars and 4.0
curves
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
25
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.1–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
6.0
(15/64)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
4.0
(3/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
25
Fagoting
stitch
26
Sewing two pieces of fabric
together across an open seam
22
Joining
stitch
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
23
Decorative bridging stitches
Presser
Foot
J
Shell tuck
stitch
Smocking
stitch
Scallop
stitch
26
21
Smocking fabrics to add texture
and elasticity
Satin scallop stitching
31
32
Lace sewing, decorative
hemming, heirloom stitching, etc.
N
Hemstitching
33
34
35
86
Decorative hemming and
heirloom stitching, etc. on thin,
medium weight and plain weave
fabrics
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Stitch Name Pattern
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Ladder
stitch
27
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
2.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Rick-rack
stitch
28
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Decorative
stitch
29
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
Serpentine
stitch
30
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
Presser
Foot
J
Decorative stitching
4
Fagoting
Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch
is more decorative when thicker thread is used.
1 along their seams.
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric
2 about 4 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by
Select stitch 25
or 26
N
3
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
5 • For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
width” (page 47).
Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned
6 along the center of the two pieces of fabric.
sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.
If you draw a line down the middle of the thin
paper or water-soluble stabilizer, sewing is
easier.
3
1
2
1 Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
2 Basting stitching
3 4 mm (3/16 inch)
3
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
7
After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
Decorative Stitching
87
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
Scallop stitching
The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like
shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of
blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs.
1
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
Smocking
The decorative stitch created by stitching or
embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is
used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to
fabric.
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
2
Select stitch
21
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making sure
3 not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the
2 stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen
the thread tension.
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
length” (page 48) and “Changing the tension
of the upper thread” (page 46).
3 (3/8 inch).
Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm
1
• For better results, apply spray starch to the
fabric and press with a hot iron before it is
sewn.
4
Trim along the stitches.
1 1 cm (3/8 inch)
• It is not necessary to sew reverse/
reinforcement stitches.
• At the end of the stitching, the thread is
pulled out about 5 cm (2 inches).
Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.
4 Smooth the gathers by ironing them.
• Be careful not to cut the stitches.
88
5
Select stitch 25
or 26
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
6
Stitch between the straight stitches.
Joining
Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the
seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when
making a crazy quilt.
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
J
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
7
Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.
2 of fabric, and then open up the seam
Sew together the right sides of the two pieces
allowances.
2
1
1
3
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance
3 Straight stitch
3
Select stitch 22
, 23
or 24
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
4 up, and then sew over the seam with the center
Turn the fabric over so that the right side faces
of the presser foot aligned with the seam.
a
1 Right side of fabric
Decorative Stitching
89
3
UTILITY STITCHES
———————————————————————————————————————————
4
Heirloom stitching
Start sewing.
When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes
are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.
This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin
or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave
fabrics.
Note
● If the thread becomes tangled, use stabilizer
material.
1
Install the wing needle.
• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.
• For details on installing a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 32).
• The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle, otherwise the sewing machine
may be damaged. Manually pass the thread
through the eye of the needle from the front
to the back.
2
● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm
(15/64 inch) or less, otherwise the needle
may bend or break.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
Partially removing threads is called “drawnwork”.
This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a
loose weave.
Two ways to create drawnwork are described below.
■ Drawnwork (Example 1)
The fabric is turned and sewn twice.
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
3
CAUTION
Select a stitch.
The stitches that can be used are 31
33
, 34
, 35
, 36
, 37
, 38
, 32
or 39
1
Pull out several threads from the fabric.
2
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
,
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
• Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64 inch)
or less.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
90
3
Select stitch 31
2
.
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew
4 along the right edge of the frayed section.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 33).
3
N
Select stitch 34
.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”
(page 56).
5
Turn the fabric around to sew the opposite side.
4
Sew along the center of the unfrayed section.
3
Sew along the other edge of the frayed section
6 so that it looks like the previous stitching.
N
N
■ Drawnwork (Example 2)
Pull out several threads from two sections of
1 the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of
about 4 mm (3/16 inch).
1
1 4 mm (3/16 inch)
Decorative Stitching
91
UTILITY STITCHES
92
———————————————————————————————————————————
4
APPENDIX
The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this chapter.
Stitch Settings..........................................................................................................94
Utility stitches ....................................................................................................94
Care and Maintenance ..........................................................................................100
Restrictions on oiling........................................................................................100
Cleaning the machine surface ..........................................................................100
Cleaning the race .............................................................................................100
Troubleshooting ....................................................................................................102
Frequent troubleshooting topics.......................................................................102
Upper thread tightened up...............................................................................102
Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric............................................................103
Incorrect thread tension...................................................................................105
Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed .................................106
When the thread became tangled under the bobbin winder seat .....................109
List of symptoms ..............................................................................................111
Error messages .................................................................................................115
Operation beep ................................................................................................116
Index .....................................................................................................................117
APPENDIX
——————————————————————————————————————————————
Stitch Settings
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility stitches in
the following table.
Triple stretch
stitch
02
J
Basic stitching, sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
Yes
Reverse
(1/64–3/16) (J)
No
Yes
J/I
Attaching zippers, basic
stitching, sewing
gathers or pintucks, etc.
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–5.0
Yes
(1/64–3/16) (J) Reverse
No
No
J
Attaching sleeves,
sewing inseams, sewing
stretch fabrics and
decorative stitching
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
Yes
(1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement
No
No
J
Sewing stretch fabrics
and decorative stitching
1.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
Yes Reinforcement
(1/16–3/16) (J)
No
No
J
Overcasting and
attaching appliqués
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
No
No
J
Overcasting on medium
weight or stretch fabrics,
attaching elastic,
darning, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
Yes
(1/64–3/16) (J) Reinforcement
No
No
G
Overcasting on thin or
medium weight fabrics
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
Yes
G
Overcasting on thick
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–5.0
(3/32–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
Yes
G
Preventing fraying in
thick fabrics and fabrics
that fray easily
5.0
(3/16)
3.5–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
Yes
J
Overcasting on stretch
fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.5–4.0
Yes Reinforcement
(1/32–3/16) (J)
No
No
R
Blind hem stitching on
medium weight fabrics
00
(0)
-3 – 3-
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
R
Blind hem stitching on
stretch fabrics
00
(0)
-3 – 3-
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.5
(1/16–1/8)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
J
Appliqué stitching
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6–4.0
Yes
(1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement
No
No
J
Shell tuck stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
Yes
(1/64–3/16) (J) Reinforcement
No
No
03
Stretch stitch
04
Zigzag stitch
3-point zigzag
stitch
05
06
07
Overcasting
stitch
08
09
10
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
Twin Needle
Side cutter
01
Application
Walking Foot
00
Center
Straight
stitch
Pattern
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser Foot
Left
Stitch Name
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Utility stitches
Yes Reverse
(J)
Blind hem stitch
11
12
Appliqué stitch
13
Shell tuck edge
94
Application
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Twin Needle
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Walking Foot
Side cutter
Pattern
J
Piecing straight
stitching (with a seam
allowance of 6.5 mm
(1/4 inch) from the right
edge of the presser foot)
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
J
Piecing straight
stitching (with a seam
allowance of 6.5 mm
(1/4 inch) from the left
edge of the presser foot)
1.5
(1/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–5.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
Yes
No
J
Straight stitch quilting
that looks hand-sewn
0.0
(0)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
J
Appliqué quilting, freemotion quilting, satin
stitching
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
Yes
Yes
J
Attaching appliqués
and binding
1.5
(1/16)
0.5–5.0
(1/32–3/16)
1.8
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
J
Attaching appliqués
and binding
1.5
(1/16)
0.5–5.0
(1/32–3/16)
1.8
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
J
Quilting background
stitching (stippling)
7.0
(1/4)
1.0–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
Scallop stitching
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.1–1.0
Yes
(1/64–1/16) (J) Reinforcement
No
No
J
Patchwork stitching
and decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
Yes
(1/64–3/16) (J) Reinforcement
No
No
J
Patchwork stitching,
decorative stitching and
sewing overcasting on
both pieces of fabric,
such as with tricot
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
Yes
(1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement
No
No
J
Patchwork stitching
and decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.2
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
Yes
(1/64–3/16) (J) Reinforcement
No
No
J
Fagoting and
decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
Yes Reinforcement
(1/16–3/16) (J)
No
No
J
Fagoting and
decorative stitching
5.0
(3/16)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
Yes
(1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement
No
No
14
Piecing straight
stitch
15
Straight stitch
that looks
hand-sewn
(for quilting)
Zigzag stitch
(for quilting)
16
17
18
Appliqué stitch
(for quilting)
19
Quilting stitch
(for stippling)
20
Satin scallop
stitch
21
22
Joining stitch
23
24
25
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser Foot
Stitch Name
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Fagoting stitch
26
Stitch Settings
95
4
——————————————————————————————————————————————
Serpentine
stitch
Side cutter
Decorative
stitch
28
Walking Foot
Rick-rack stitch
27
J
Decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
2.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
J
Decorative stitching
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.0–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement
(1/16–3/16) (J)
No
No
J
Decorative stitching
5.5
(7/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement
(1/16–3/16) (J)
No
No
N
Decorative stitching
and elastic-attaching
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
Yes
Reinforcement
(1/64–3/16) (J)
No
No
N
Lace sewing,
decorative hemming,
heirloom stitching, etc.
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.6–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
Decorative hemming,
heirloom stitching, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight
and plain weave fabrics,
heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.5
(1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight
and plain weave fabrics,
heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
4.0
(3/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight
and plain weave fabrics,
heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
Decorative hemming on
thin, medium weight
and plain weave fabrics,
heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
Decorative hemming,
ribbon threading,
heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
3.0
(1/8)
1.5–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
Decorative stitching,
smocking stitching,
heirloom stitching, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
Decorative stitching,
smocking stitching,
heirloom stitching, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
1.5–7.0
(1/16–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
1.0–4.0
(1/16–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
96
Application
29
Hemstitching
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Ladder stitch
Pattern
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Stitch Name
Presser Foot
APPENDIX
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Application
Twin Needle
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Walking Foot
Side cutter
Pattern
A
Horizontal buttonholes
on thin and medium
weight fabrics
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
No
A
Secured buttonholes for
fabrics that have
backings
5.0
(3/16)
3.0–5.0
(1/8–3/16)
0.4
(1/64)
0.2–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
No
A
Buttonholes for stretch
or knit fabrics
6.0
3.0–6.0
(15/54) (1/8–15/64)
1.0
(1/16)
0.5–2.0
(1/32–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
No
A
Buttonholes for stretch
fabrics
6.0
3.0–6.0
(15/54) (1/8–15/64)
1.5
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
No
A
Keyhole buttonholes for
thick or furry fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
No
A
Keyhole buttonholes for
medium weight and
thick fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
No
A
Horizontal buttonholes
for thick or furry fabrics
7.0
(1/4)
3.0–7.0
(1/8–1/4)
0.5
(1/32)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
No
A
Reinforcing openings
and areas where the
seam easily comes loose
2.0
(1/16)
1.0–3.0
(1/16–1/8)
0.4
(1/64)
0.3–1.0
(1/64–1/16)
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
No
M
Button sewing
3.5
(1/8)
2.5–4.5
(3/32–3/16)
–
–
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
No
N
Sewing eyelets, for
example, on belts
7.0
(1/4)
7.0, 6.0, 5.0
(1/4, 15/64,
3/16)
–
–
No
Automatic
reinforcement
No
No
40
41
42
Buttonhole
stitch
43
44
45
46
47
Bar tack stitch
Button-sewing
stitch
48
49
Eyelet stitch
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Presser Foot
Stitch Name
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Stitch Settings
97
4
Walking Foot
Side cutter
N
For decoration, etc.
2.5
(3/32)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
3.0
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
4.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
5.0
(3/16)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.0
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
Application
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
Decorative
stitch
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
98
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Pattern
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Twin Needle
Stitch Name
——————————————————————————————————————————————
Presser Foot
APPENDIX
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Walking Foot
Side cutter
Reverse/
Reinforcement
Stitching
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
Yes
Reinforcement
(1/64–1/16) (J)
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
Yes
Reinforcement
(1/64–1/16) (J)
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
Yes
Reinforcement
(1/64–1/16) (J)
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
Yes
Reinforcement
(1/64–1/16) (J)
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
Yes
(1/64–1/16) (J) Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
Yes
(1/64–1/16) (J) Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
Yes
(1/64–1/16) (J) Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
2.5–7.0
(3/32–1/4)
0.4
(1/64)
0.1–1.0
Yes
(1/64–1/16) (J) Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
7.0
(1/4)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.6
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
2.5
(3/32)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
N
For decoration, etc.
6.0
(15/64)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.2–4.0
(1/64–3/16)
No
Reinforcement
No
No
Application
67
68
69
70
Auto
Manual
Auto
Manual
Twin Needle
Pattern
Presser Foot
Stitch Name
Stitch Width
[mm (inch)]
Satin stitches
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
Cross stitch
78
79
Stitch Settings
99
4
APPENDIX
——————————————————————————————————————————————
Care and Maintenance
Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.
Restrictions on oiling
3
Remove the flat bed attachment.
Remove the needle plate cover.
In order to prevent damaging this machine, it must
not be oiled by the user.
This machine was manufactured with the necessary
amount of oil applied to ensure correct operation,
making periodic oiling unnecessary.
If problems occur, such as difficulty turning the
handwheel or an unusual noise, immediately stop
using the machine, and contact you authorized
dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
4 The needle plate cover is removed differently
depending on the model.
■ If there is a screw in the needle plate cover
Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to remove
1 the screw in the needle plate cover.
Cleaning the machine
surface
If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a
cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and
then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning it
once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry cloth.
Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover,
2 and then slide it toward you.
CAUTION
● Unplug the power cord before cleaning
the machine, otherwise injuries or an
electric shock may occur.
a
Cleaning the race
Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the
bobbin case; therefore, it should be cleaned
periodically.
1
Turn off the sewing machine.
Unplug the power cord from the power supply
2 jack on the right side of the sewing machine.
1 Needle plate cover
X The needle plate cover is removed.
■ If there is no screw in the needle plate cover
Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover,
1 and then slide it toward you.
a
1 Needle plate cover
X The needle plate cover is removed.
CAUTION
● Unplug the power cord before cleaning
the machine, otherwise injuries or an
electric shock may occur.
100
Remove the bobbin case.
5 Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.
Install the needle plate cover.
8 The needle plate cover is installed differently
depending on the model.
■ If there is a screw in the needle plate cover
Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into
1 the needle plate, and then slide the cover back
on.
1
1 Bobbin case
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to
6 remove any lint and dust from the race and its
surrounding area.
a
1 Needle plate cover
Use the disc-shaped screwdriver to tighten the
2 screw in the needle plate cover.
a
b
1 Cleaning brush
2 Race
4
• Do not apply oil to the bobbin case.
Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on the
7 bobbin case aligns with the z mark on the machine.
■ If there is no screw in the needle plate cover
a
Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into
1 the needle plate, and then slide the cover back
on.
b
a
b
a
1 Needle plate cover
* Align the S and z marks.
Install the flat bed attachment in its original
9 position.
CAUTION
● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,
1 S mark
2 z mark
3 Bobbin case
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new bobbin
case (part code: XC3153-321), contact
your nearest authorized service center.
● Be sure that the bobbin case is correctly
installed, otherwise the needle may break.
* Make sure that the indicated points are
aligned before installing the bobbin case.
Care and Maintenance
101
APPENDIX
——————————————————————————————————————————————
Troubleshooting
If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service.
You can solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the
latest FAQs and troubleshooting tips. Visit us at “ http://solutions.brother.com ” .
If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.
Frequent troubleshooting topics
Detailed causes and remedies for common troubleshooting topics are described below. Be sure to refer to this
before contacting us.
■ Upper thread tightened up
page 102
■ Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric
page 103
■ Incorrect thread tension
page 105
■ Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed
page 106
■ When the thread became tangled under the bobbin winder seat
page 109
Upper thread tightened up
■ Symptom
• The upper thread appears as a single
continuous line.
• The lower thread is visible from the upper
side of the fabric. (Refer to the illustration
below.)
• The upper thread has tightened up, and
comes out when pulled.
• The upper thread has tightened up, and
wrinkles appear in the fabric.
• The upper thread tension is tight, and the
results do not change even after the thread
tension is adjusted.
■ Cause
Incorrect lower threading
If the lower thread is incorrectly threaded, instead
of the appropriate tension being applied to the
lower thread, it is pulled through the fabric when
the upper thread is pulled up. For this reason, the
thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric.
■ Remedy/check details
Correctly install the lower thread.
1
Turn off the sewing machine.
2
Remove the bobbin from the bobbin case.
Place the bobbin in the bobbin case so that
3 the thread unwinds in the correct direction.
• Hold the bobbin with your right hand with
the thread unwinding to the left, and hold
the end of the thread with your left hand.
Then, with your right hand, place the bobbin
in the bobbin case.
1
2
3
4
5
Lower side of fabric
Lower thread visible from upper side of fabric
Upper thread
Upper side of fabric
Lower thread
If the bobbin is inserted with the thread
unwinding in the wrong direction, sewing will
be done with an incorrect thread tension.
102
While holding the bobbin in place with your
4 finger, pass the thread through the slit in the
needle plate.
• Hold down the bobbin with your right hand,
and then pull the end of the thread around
the tab with your left hand.
2
Tangled thread on wrong
side of fabric
■ Symptom
• The thread becomes tangled on the lower
side of the fabric.
1
1 Tab
2 Hold down the bobbin with your right hand.
• After starting sewing, a rattling noise is made
and sewing cannot continue.
• Looking under the fabric, there is tangled
thread in the bobbin case.
Pull the thread to pass it through the slit in the
needle plate, then cut it with the cutter.
4
■ Cause
Incorrect upper threading
If the upper thread is incorrectly threaded, the
upper thread passed through the fabric cannot be
firmly pulled up and the upper thread becomes
tangled in the bobbin case, causing a rattling
noise.
3 Slit
4 Cutter
Sewing with the correct thread tension is
possible after the bobbin has been correctly
installed in the bobbin case.
■ Remedy/check details
Remove the tangled thread, and then correct the
upper threading.
1 removed, cut the thread with scissors.
Remove the tangled thread. If it cannot be
• For details, refer to “Cleaning the race” on
page 100.
2
Remove the upper thread from the machine.
Refer to the following steps to correct the
3 upper threading.
• If the bobbin was removed from the bobbin
case, refer to “Installing the bobbin”
(page 20) and “Remedy/check details” in the
section “Upper thread tightened up” on
page 102 to correctly install the bobbin.
Troubleshooting
103
APPENDIX
——————————————————————————————————————————————
Raise the presser foot using the presser foot
4 lever.
Pass the thread under the thread guide plate,
7 and then pull it up.
1
1 Presser foot lever
• If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
machine cannot be threaded correctly.
Press
(“Needle Position” button) once
5 or twice to raise the needle.
1 Thread guide plate
While using your right hand to lightly hold the
8 thread passed under the thread guide plate,
pass the thread through the thread path in the
order shown below.
1
1
1 “Needle Position” button
X The needle is correctly raised when the
mark on the handwheel is at the top, as
shown below. Check the handwheel and, if
this mark is not at this position, press
(“Needle Position” button) until it is.
1 Shutter
1
9 guide.
Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread
The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the thread
in your left hand, then feeding the thread with
your right hand, as shown.
1 Mark on handwheel
6 right hand, pull the thread with your left
While holding the thread lightly with your
hand, and then pass the thread behind the
thread guide cover and to the front.
1
1
1 Needle bar thread guide
Next, use the needle threader to thread the
0 needle. Continue with the procedure in
“Threading the needle” (page 25).
1 Thread guide cover
104
Incorrect thread tension
■ Symptoms
• Symptom 1: The lower thread is visible from the upper side of the fabric.
• Symptom 2: The upper thread appears as a straight line on the upper side of the fabric.
• Symptom 3: The upper thread is visible from the lower side of the fabric.
• Symptom 4: The lower thread appears as a straight line on the lower side of the fabric.
• Symptom 5: The stitching on the lower side of the fabric is loose or has slack.
† Symptom 1
† Symptom 3
1 Lower side of fabric
2 Lower thread visible from
upper side of fabric
3 Upper thread
4 Upper side of fabric
5 Lower thread
6 Upper thread visible from
lower side of fabric
■ Cause/remedy/check details
† Cause 1
The machine is not correctly threaded.
<With symptoms 1 and 2 described above>
The lower threading is incorrect.
Return the thread tension dial to “4”, and
then refer to “Upper thread tightened up”
(page 102) to correct the threading.
<With symptoms 3 through 5 described above>
The upper threading is incorrect.
Return the thread tension dial to “4”, and
then refer to “Tangled thread on wrong side
of fabric” (page 103) to correct the upper
threading.
† Cause 2
A needle and thread appropriate for the
fabric are not being used.
The sewing machine needle that should be
used depends on the type of fabric sewn and
the thread thickness.
If a needle and thread appropriate for the
fabric are not being used, the thread tension
will not be adjusted correctly, causing
wrinkles in the fabric or skipped stitches.
• Refer to “Needle types and their uses”
(page 30) to check that a needle and thread
appropriate for the fabric are being used.
Note
● If the upper threading and lower threading
are incorrect, the thread tension cannot be
adjusted correctly, even by turning the
thread tension dial. Check the upper
threading and lower threading first, and
then adjust the thread tension.
• When the lower thread is visible from the
upper side of the fabric. Turn the thread
tension dial to a lower number (toward the
left). (Loosen the thread tension.)
• When the upper thread is visible from the
lower side of the fabric. Turn the thread
tension dial to a higher number (toward the
right). (Tighten the thread tension.)
† Cause 3
An appropriate setting on the thread tension
dial is not selected.
Turn the thread tension dial to select an
appropriate thread tension.
The appropriate thread tension differs
according to the type of fabric and thread
being used.
* Adjust the thread tension while test sewing
on a piece of scrap fabric that is the same as
that used in your project.
Troubleshooting
105
4
APPENDIX
——————————————————————————————————————————————
Cut out the tangled threads, and then remove
Fabric is caught in the
machine and cannot be
removed
If the fabric is caught in the sewing machine and
cannot be removed, the thread may have become
tangled under the needle plate. Follow the procedure
described below to remove the fabric from the
machine. If the operation could not be completed
according to the procedure, instead of attempting to
complete it forcefully, contact your nearest
authorized service center.
■ Removing the fabric from the machine
1
Immediately stop the sewing machine.
2
Turn off the sewing machine.
7 the bobbin.
Remove the bobbin case.
8 If threads remain in the bobbin case, remove
them.
Remove the needle.
3 If the needle is lowered into the fabric, turn the
handwheel away from you (clockwise) to raise
the needle out of the fabric, and then remove
the needle.
• Refer to “Replacing the needle” (page 32).
4 holder.
Remove the presser foot and presser foot
• Refer to “Replacing the presser foot”
(page 33)“ and “Removing the presser foot
holder” (page 35).
1 Bobbin case
9 remove any dust from the race and its
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to
surrounding area.
5 If the fabric can be removed, remove it.
Lift up the fabric and cut the threads below it.
Continue with the following steps to clean the
race.
6
Remove the needle plate cover.
1 Cleaning brush
2 Race
1
1 Needle plate cover
• Refer to “Cleaning the race” (page 100).
106
If the fabric could be removed.
Continue with
step f.
If the fabric could not be removed.
Continue with
step 0.
Use the enclosed disc-shaped screwdriver to
0 loosen the two screws on the needle plate.
Turn the handwheel to check that the feed
dogs move smoothly and do not contact the
edges of the slots in the needle plate.
Note
● Be careful not to drop the removed screws
in the machine.
Slightly lift up the needle plate, cut any
a tangled threads, and then remove the needle
plate.
Remove the fabric and threads from the needle
plate.
1 Correct position of feed dogs
2 Incorrect position of feed dogs
Note
● Be careful not to drop the removed screws
in the machine.
Insert the bobbin case so that the S mark on
f the bobbin case aligns with the z mark on the
4
machine.
a
If the fabric cannot be removed, even after
completing these steps, contact your nearest
authorized service center.
b
Remove any threads in the race and around
b the feed dogs.
c
a
b
Turn the handwheel to raise the feed dogs.
Align the two screw holes in the needle plate
d with the two holes at the needle plate
mounting base, and then fit the needle plate
onto the machine.
• Align the S and z marks.
e side of the needle plate. Then, use the disc-
Lightly finger-tighten the screw on the right
shaped screwdriver to firmly tighten the
screw on the left side. Finally, firmly tighten
the screw on the right side.
1 S mark
2 z mark
3 Bobbin case
• Make sure that the indicated points are
aligned before installing the bobbin case.
Troubleshooting
107
APPENDIX
——————————————————————————————————————————————
CAUTION
2
● Never use a bobbin case that is
scratched, otherwise the upper thread
may become tangled, the needle may
break or sewing performance may suffer.
For a new bobbin case (part code:
XC3153-321), contact your nearest
authorized service center.
● Make sure that you fit the bobbin case
properly, otherwise the needle may
break.
Select stitch 01
.
Note
● Do not yet install the presser foot and
thread.
Slowly turn the handwheel toward you
3 (counterclockwise), and look from all sides to
check that the needle falls at the center of the
hole in the needle plate.
If the needle contacts the needle plate, remove
the needle plate, and then install it again,
starting with step c in “Removing the fabric
from the machine” (page 107).
Attach the needle plate cover according to
8 in “Cleaning the race” (page 101).
g steps
Check the condition of the needle, and then
h install it.
2
1
If the needle is in a poor condition, for
example, if it is bent, be sure to install a new
needle.
• Refer to “Checking the needle” (page 31)
and “Replacing the needle” (page 32).
CAUTION
1 Hole in the needle plate
2 Handwheel
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
4
Note
● After completing this procedure, continue
with the following procedure in “Checking
machine operations” to check that the
machine is operating correctly.
Memo
● Since the needle may have been damaged
when the fabric was caught in the machine,
we recommend replacing it with a new one.
■ Checking machine operations
If the needle plate has been removed, check
machine operations to confirm that installation
has been completed correctly.
1
108
Turn on the machine.
Select stitch 04
. At this time, increase the
stitch length and width to their maximum
settings.
• For details on changing the settings, refer to
“Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length”
(page 47).
Slowly turn the handwheel toward you
5 (counterclockwise) and check that the needle
bar and feed dogs operate correctly.
If the needle or feed dogs contact the needle
plate, the machine may be malfunctioning;
therefore, contact your nearest authorized
service center.
6 bobbin and presser foot.
Turn off the machine, and then install the
• Refer to “Installing the bobbin” (page 20)
and “Replacing the presser foot” (page 33).
Correctly thread the machine.
7 • For details on threading the machine, refer to
“Upper Threading” (page 22).
Note
● The thread may have become tangled as a
result of incorrect upper threading. Make
sure that the machine is correctly threaded.
8
Perform trial sewing with normal fabric.
CAUTION
● Do not remove the bobbin winder seat
even if the thread become tangled under
the bobbin winder seat. It may result in
injuries.
● Do not remove the screw of the bobbin
winder presser, otherwise the machine
may be damaged; you cannot wind off
the thread by removing the screw.
1
Note
● Incorrect sewing may be the result of
incorrect upper threading or sewing thin
fabrics. If there are poor results from the trial
sewing, check the upper threading or the
type of fabric being used.
1 Screw of the bobbin winder presser
When the thread became
tangled under the bobbin
winder seat
If the bobbin winding starts when the thread is not
passed under the pretension disk of the bobbinwinding thread guide correctly, the thread may
become tangled under the bobbin winder seat.
In such a case, wind off the thread according to the
following procedure.
1
If the thread become tangled under the
bobbin winder seat, press
(“Start/Stop”
button) once to stop the bobbin winding.
When the foot controller is plugged in, remove
your foot from the foot controller.
1
1 Start/stop button
1
1 Thread
2 Bobbin winder seat
2
Cut the thread with scissors beside the
2 bobbin-winding thread guide.
1
1 Bobbin-winding thread guide
Troubleshooting
109
4
APPENDIX
——————————————————————————————————————————————
Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left, and
3 then remove the bobbin from the shaft.
Hold the thread end with your left hand, and
4 wind off the thread clockwise near the bobbin
with your right hand as shown below.
5
Wind the bobbin again.
Note
● Make sure that the thread passes under the
pretension disk of the bobbin-winding
thread guide correctly (page 18).
110
List of symptoms
Symptom
The sewing
machine does
not operate.
Probable Cause
Remedy
Reference
The machine is not turned on.
Turn on the machine.
page 15
The “Start/Stop” button was not
pressed.
Press the “Start/Stop” button.
page 42
The presser foot lever is raised.
Lower the presser foot lever.
–
The “Start/Stop” button was pressed,
even though the foot controller is
connected.
Do not use the “Start/Stop” button
when the foot controller is
connected. To use the “Start/Stop”
button, disconnect the foot controller.
page 42
The bobbin winder shaft is pushed to
the right.
Move the bobbin winder shaft to the
left.
page 18
The needle is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the needle.
The needle clamp screw is loose.
Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten
the screw.
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
page 30
The presser foot that is used is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you wish to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you wish to sew.
page 94
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension.
The needle
breaks.
The upper
thread breaks.
page 32
page 46
–
The fabric is pulled too much.
Lightly guide the fabric.
The spool is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the spool.
The area around the hole in the
needle plate is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the needle plate.
Contact your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the presser foot.
Contact your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The bobbin case is scratched, or has
a burr on it.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin designed
specifically for this machine.
page 16
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly (for example, the spool is
not installed correctly, the spool cap
is too big for the spool being used, or
the thread has come out of the needle
bar thread guide).
Correct the upper threading.
page 22
There are knots or tangles in the
thread.
Remove any knots or tangles.
–
The selected needle is not appropriate
for the thread being used.
Select a needle that is appropriate
for the type of thread being used.
page 22
The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension.
page 30
page 46
Troubleshooting
111
4
APPENDIX
——————————————————————————————————————————————
Symptom
The upper
thread breaks.
The lower
thread is tangled
or breaks.
The thread
tension is
incorrect.
The fabric is
wrinkled.
112
Probable Cause
Remedy
Reference
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the bobbin case.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin case,
clean the race.
page 100
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
The needle is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the needle.
The area around the hole in the
needle plate is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the needle plate.
Contact your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The area around the hole in the
presser foot is scratched, or has a
burr on it.
Replace the presser foot.
Contact your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The bobbin case is scratched, or has
a burr on it.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin designed
specifically for this machine.
page 16
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin thread.
page 20
The bobbin is scratched or does not
rotate smoothly, or has a burr on it.
Replace the bobbin.
The thread is tangled.
Remove the tangled thread and
clean the race.
page 100
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin designed
specifically for this machine.
page 16
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading.
page 22
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin thread.
page 20
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
page 30
The presser foot holder is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the presser foot
holder.
page 35
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper thread.
page 46
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin designed
specifically for this machine.
page 16
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly, or the bobbin is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly thread the upper thread
and correctly install the bobbin
thread.
page 32
–
page 20, 22
The spool is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the spool.
page 22
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
page 30
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
page 32
If thin fabrics are being sewn, the
stitch is too long.
Shorten the stitch length or sew with
stabilizer material under the fabric.
page 48
Symptom
The fabric is
wrinkled.
Stitches are
skipped.
A high-pitched
noise is made
while sewing.
The needle
threader cannot
be used.
The stitch is not
sewn correctly.
The fabric does
not feed.
Probable Cause
Remedy
Reference
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
page 46
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading.
page 22
The combination of fabric, thread
and needle is not correct.
Select a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric
being sewn.
page 30
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
The needle is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the needle.
Dust has accumulated under the
needle plate or in the bobbin case.
Remove the needle plate cover and
clean the race.
page 100
Dust has accumulated in the feed
dogs or in the bobbin case.
Clean the race.
page 100
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading.
page 22
The bobbin case is scratched, or has
a burr on it.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
A bobbin designed specifically for
this machine is not used.
Incorrect bobbins will not work
properly. Only use a bobbin designed
specifically for this machine.
page 16
The needle has not been raised to
the correct position.
Press the “Needle Position” button.
page 25
The needle is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the needle.
page 32
The presser foot that is used is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you wish to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you wish to sew.
page 94
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper
thread.
page 46
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the bobbin case.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin case,
clean the race.
page 100
The feed dogs are lowered.
Slide the drop feed lever to the right
(as seen from the rear of the machine).
page 69, 82
The stitch is too short.
Lengthen the stitch length.
page 48
The presser foot that is used is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you wish to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is
appropriate for the type of stitch that
you wish to sew.
page 94
The pressure of the presser foot is
weak.
Turn the presser foot pressure dial to
the left to increase the pressure of
the presser foot.
page 34
The thread is tangled, for example,
in the bobbin case.
Remove the tangle thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin case,
clean the race.
page 100
Zigzag foot “J” is slanted on a thick
seam at the beginning of stitching.
Use the presser foot locking pin
(black button on the left side) on
zigzag foot “J” to keep the presser
foot level while sewing.
page 52
page 32
–
Troubleshooting
113
4
APPENDIX
——————————————————————————————————————————————
Symptom
Probable Cause
Remedy
Reference
The sewing lamp
does not come
on.
The sewing lamp is damaged.
Contact your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
While winding
the bobbin, the
bobbin thread
was wound
below the bobbin
winder seat.
You have not wound the bobbin
thread properly.
After removing the thread wound
below the bobbin winder seat, wind
the bobbin correctly.
page 109
The thread is not passed through the
bobbin-winding thread guide
correctly.
Correctly pass the thread through the
bobbin-winding thread guide.
page 18
Bobbin spins slowly.
Move the sewing speed controller to
the right (so that the speed will be
fast).
page 19
The thread that was pulled out was
not wound onto the bobbin
correctly.
Wind the thread that was pulled off
round the bobbin five or six times
clockwise.
page 19
Fabric being
sewn with the
machine cannot
be removed.
Thread is tangled below the needle
plate.
Lift up the fabric and cut the threads
below it, and clean the race.
page 106
The fabric feeds
in the opposite
direction.
The feed mechanism is damaged.
Contact your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The upper
thread has
tightened up.
The bobbin thread is incorrectly
installed.
Correctly install the bobbin thread.
page
20, 102
The thread is
tangled on the
wrong side of
the fabric.
You have not threaded the upper
thread properly.
Correct the upper threading.
page
22, 103
Bobbin thread
does not wind
neatly on the
bobbin.
114
–
Error messages
If
(“Start/Stop” button) is pressed before the sewing machine is correctly set up or if an operation is
performed incorrectly, an error message appears in the stitch indicator. Follow the instructions that appear.
The message may disappear if the operation is performed correctly. The message will disappear if
or
(Stitch selection keys) is pressed while the message is displayed.
Error Message
Probable Cause
The “Start/Stop” button or “Reverse/Reinforcement
Stitch” button was pressed while the presser foot was
raised.
A stitch other than the buttonhole or bar tack stitch was
selected and the “Start/Stop” button was pressed while
the buttonhole lever is lowered.
The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and the
“Start/Stop” button was pressed while the buttonhole
lever is raised.
The “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button or “Needle
Position” button was pressed while the bobbin winder is
moved to the right.
4
The “Start/Stop” button was pressed while the foot
controller was connected.
The motor locked up because the thread is tangled.
The needle mode selection key was pressed while a
stitch that cannot be used with twin needle sewing was
selected.
You tried to select a different stitch while the twin
needle sewing setting was selected (the key is lit).
F1~F9
If error message “F1” through “F9” appears in the LCD
while the sewing machine is being used, the machine
may be malfunctioning. Contact your nearest
authorized service center.
Troubleshooting
115
APPENDIX
——————————————————————————————————————————————
Operation beep
Each time a key is pressed or an incorrect operation
is performed, a beep is sounded.
■ For a correct operation
One beep is sounded.
■ If an incorrect operation is performed
Two or four beeps are sounded.
■ If the machine locks up, for example, because
the thread is tangled
The sewing machine continues to beep for four
seconds. The machine automatically stops.
Be sure to check for the cause of the error, and
correct it before continuing to sew.
116
————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Index
Numerics
1/4 inch quilting foot .......................................................8
1/4 inch quilting foot with guide .....................................8
3-point zigzag stitch ......................................................59
A
accessory bag ..................................................................7
adjustable zipper/piping foot ...........................................8
air vent ..........................................................................10
appliqué ........................................................................79
attaching the stitch pattern plate ......................................8
automatic reinforcement stitching .................................49
automatic reverse stitching ............................................49
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key ....................12
B
bar tack .........................................................................83
basic stitching ...............................................................62
blind hem stitch ............................................................63
blind stitch foot ...............................................................7
bobbin ......................................................................7, 20
bobbin case ...................................................................20
bobbin cover ...........................................................10, 20
bobbin thread ................................................................20
pulling up ...............................................................29
bobbin winder ...........................................................9, 17
bobbin winder seat ........................................................19
bobbin winder shaft spring ............................................17
bobbin winding thread guide and pretension disk .....9, 18
bobbin-winding .............................................................16
button fitting foot .............................................................7
button sewing ..........................................................65, 69
buttonhole foot ..........................................................7, 66
buttonhole lever ................................................ 10, 67, 84
buttonhole stitching .......................................................65
C
care .............................................................................100
changing sewing direction .............................................51
cleaning ......................................................................100
cleaning brush .........................................................7, 101
crazy quilt stitching .......................................................80
curves ...........................................................................51
cylindrical pieces ..........................................................37
D
disc-shaped screwdriver ..................................................7
E
elastic tape ....................................................................76
electrical outlet .............................................................15
error messages .............................................................115
even seam allowance ....................................................53
extra spool pin ..........................................................7, 27
eyelet ............................................................................85
eyelet punch .......................................................7, 68, 85
F
fagoting .........................................................................87
features ...........................................................................6
feed dog position switch ..........................................10, 82
feed dogs .................................................................10, 82
flat bed attachment ..........................................................9
foot controller ...........................................................7, 42
foot controller jack ........................................................10
free-arm sewing .............................................................37
free-motion quilting .......................................................82
H
handle ...........................................................................10
handwheel ..............................................................10, 41
hard case .........................................................................7
heirloom stitching .........................................................90
I
included accessories .......................................................7
J
joining ...........................................................................89
joining stitch .................................................................78
L
lower threading .............................................................20
M
main power switch ..................................................10, 15
maintenance ...............................................................100
monogramming foot ........................................................7
N
needle ...........................................................................30
needle bar thread guide ...........................................10, 24
needle clamp screw ......................................................32
needle mode selection key (single/twin) ........................12
needle plate ............................................................10, 53
needle plate cover .................................................10, 100
needle position ..............................................................62
needle position button ...................................................11
needle set ........................................................................7
needle stop position key ................................................12
needle threader lever .......................................................9
non stick foot ..................................................................8
Index 117
4
APPENDIX
——————————————————————————————————————————————
O
open toe foot ...................................................................8
openings .......................................................................83
operation beep ............................................................116
operation buttons ......................................................9, 11
operation manual ............................................................7
operation panel .........................................................9, 12
optional accessories ........................................................8
overcasting foot ...............................................................7
overcasting stitches .......................................................58
P
patchwork stitching .......................................................80
piecing ..........................................................................80
pocket corners ...............................................................83
positioning fabric ..........................................................41
power supply jack ...................................................10, 15
presser foot ..............................................................10, 33
presser foot dial .............................................................10
presser foot holder ...................................................10, 35
presser foot lever ...........................................................10
presser foot pressure ......................................................34
presser foot pressure dial ...............................................34
Q
quick reference guide ......................................................7
quilting ..........................................................................81
quilting foot ...............................................................8, 82
quilting guide ............................................................8, 81
stitch number display key ..............................................12
stitch pattern plate ...........................................................7
stitch selection key ........................................................12
stitch settings .................................................................94
stitch width ...................................................................47
stitch width adjustment button ......................................12
stitch width adjustment slider ........................................12
stitch width display key .................................................12
straight stitch .................................................................62
stretch fabrics ................................................................53
T
thick fabrics ...................................................................52
thin fabrics ....................................................................53
thread cutter ....................................................................9
thread guide cover ..............................................9, 18, 24
thread guide disk ...........................................................10
thread guide plate ...............................................9, 18, 24
thread take-up lever check window .................................9
thread tension ...............................................................46
thread tension dial .....................................................9, 46
top cover .............................................................9, 17, 23
trial sewing ....................................................................51
triple stretch stitch .........................................................83
troubleshooting ...........................................................102
twin needle .........................................................7, 27, 32
U
upper thread ..................................................................22
upper thread tension .....................................................46
R
W
race .............................................................................100
reinforcement stitching ............................................44, 83
replacing the needle ......................................................32
reverse/reinforcement stitch button ................................11
walking foot ........................................................8, 35, 81
wide table .................................................................8, 37
wing needle ..................................................................90
S
scallop stitching ............................................................88
screwdriver ...............................................................7, 32
seam ripper ...............................................................7, 68
selecting stitching ..........................................................56
sewing machine needles ...............................................30
sewing speed .................................................................42
sewing speed controller .............................................9, 11
side cutter .................................................................8, 60
sleeves ..........................................................................83
smocking .......................................................................88
spool cap ............................................................7, 17, 23
spool net .........................................................................7
spool pin .............................................................9, 17, 23
start/stop button .......................................................11, 42
starting sewing ..............................................................42
stitch guide foot ...............................................................8
stitch indicator ..............................................................12
stitch length ...................................................................48
stitch length adjustment button ......................................12
stitch length adjustment slider .......................................12
stitch length display key ................................................12
118
Z
zigzag foot ......................................................................7
zipper foot .......................................................................7
zipper stitching ..............................................................72
Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product
support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).
English
885-U20
Printed in China
XE0433-2012