For making Printed Circuit Boards.
Chemical Milling Brass
Operating and Modification Instructions For Your GBC® brand
HS100 (4”), HS200 (9”) or HS300 (12”) Pouch Laminator
Get perfect toner transfers when using our “Direct
Etch” method for making instant circuit boards or
chemically “milling” brass, and for creating B&W
and full-color “dry rub down” decals. GBC® (General Binding Corporation) had designed a most unusual “pouch laminator”. You get the benefits of a
“hot roll” liminator at a fraction of what a real one
costs! They achieve this by externally heating (versus expensive internally heated rollers). This unit
exerts pin-point heat and presure to make absolutely perfect toner transfers from our “TTS” paper
to brass, copper as well as to our line of specialty
foils for making amazingly simple “dry transfer”
run-down decals!
The first part of this instruction set covers some
simple modifications you will need to make if you
plan on making PCBʼs thicker than .032”, (otherwise, no modifications are necessary.) If you elect
to modify your unit, it will take you about 15 minutes to complete. The second part of this instruction set covers basic operation of your unit. You
are responsible for any modifications you perform
to this unit. Please read the Operating Instructions
and warranty conditions enclosed with the unit before making any modifications to your unit if you
are unsure. Keep the box, packing materials and
removed parts from these modification instructions to be able to “unmodify” your unit if you need
to send it back to the manufacturer for warranty
repairs, etc.
- Long, thin #2 Phillips screwdriver
- Needle nose pliers
- Flashlight
1) Start with the unit unplugged and cold: Remove
the 4 Phillips screws from the rear of the unit.
Keep these screws separate from others that will
be coming off.
2) Rotate the front (silver half) under the back
half: This will give you ample room for these minor modifications.
3) Remove three chassis mounting screws: One
is under the chassis on the right side, another is
in the extreme lower left corner and may be hard
to see right away because of several wires in that
geeneral vacinity. A flashlight helps to spot it. The
last one is in the upper left corner.
4) Pull some slack to the thermistor wires: Notice
on the front right corner of the chassis, there is a
wire-tie holding 4 wires; two white and two black.
Pull a little bit of slack to the left of the wire-tie.
5) Remove the chassis. Grasp the assembly by the
front and pull it out from the back case a few
6) Remove the two rear “guide” plates: Notice from
the top side view, there are two spring-loaded
“feet” that hold the plates in place. CAREFULLY
push both feet back... just barely enough to get
the plates “tongue” out of the slot. Do the same
with the other side and the second plate. Pay particular attention to the way the two plates face
each other with the bend edge away from each
other. NOTE: If you press the retaining feet too far
they will break.
7) Remove spacers on plates: One plate has two
clear plastic squares on the end ʻtabsʼ where the
other plaste has narrow strips of silicone rubber.
Remove all four of these spacers and keep in a safe
spot in case you need to “unmodify” this unit.
8) Insert the plates back to their original position:
Both are identical so it doesnʼt matter which ones
goes in first. Insert both and snap them down under the retaining feet. Lay the chassis back into
the rear case.
9) Offset the top motor flange on the assembly:
Notice there are two screws holding the motor to
a pivoting plastic assembly (pivoting on the lower
screw). The motorʼs top flange has a pin in one
hole and a screw in the other. Remove the uppermost screw, lift the flange a 1/4” and rotate the
motor forward so that the “pinned” hole is now
over the “screw” hole and the original screw hole is
”floating in space”. You may have to push the assembly down at the same time as pivoting the motor into its new position. Replace the screw. NOTE:
The screw will have to start on a slight angle due
to the flange being offset a bit and will require a
bit of force to get it started. Donʼt overtighten!
10) Remove the spring: Next to the top motor screw
you just worked on, is a small spring. This spring
keeps the motor engaged to the drive roller. Under “normal” use, (e.g. non-modified form) the
tab in the back would be depressed to disengage
the motor in the event you had a jammed “pouch”
situation. Using needle-nose pliers, remove the
spring off the top mounting post. Now remove the
lower motor mounting screw.
11) Remove Motor Assembly: The pivoting motor
assembly is in a “track” that you canʼt see, so you
must let it drop it down to the bottom of the case
to allow it to escape the “track”, then wiggle it out
and away from the chassis.
12) Remove “Release Lever”: The tab that sticks out
the rear of the unit needs to be removed from the
motor assembly. Because the motor has been realigned, the tab will not allow the motor to pivot
enough to be able to disengage the motor in the
event you had a jam. If there was a jam and a
rigid board was half way through the unit, you
would not be able to open the unit up! If there is
a subsequent jam during use, (which is unlikely)
you would reach a finger inside the rear “Release”
opening and push the pivoting motor assembly far
enough down to disengage the motor drive gear
to be able to remove the board.
13) Exchange Gears: Swap the small and large gears
and then reassemble. This will take a bit of force
or tweaking to get the motor assembly to re-engage the “track”. Start from the motor assembly
pivoting low. As it is raised up, pull the assembly
towards the rear during the sweep back to the top.
Once you have it back on track, install the screw
being careful not to over tighten, then reattach the
spring to the post with needle-nose pliers.
14) Secure the chassis: Reinstall the three screws into
the two lower and the top left holes. If you find the
lower left hole is too difficult to get to because of
the wires, you can skip this mounting point since
the two opposite corners are sufficient to hold the
chassis stable in the base shell.
15) Close The Unit: Look at the two “points” that are
sticking out from the bottom-front edge of the
back half of the shell where the two shells mate.
Make sure they are both just inside the mating
silver front half. Itʼs a very tight fit. Work the casing back together manipulating all sides. Once itʼs
aligned, you will have a good fit. Before inserting
the four rear screws, made sure the bottom seam
where the two shells come together are smooth
and not overlapping. Do not overtighten!
Side the power switch to “on” and slide the “Temp Set”
to the right (for the higher of the two heat settings).
Wait until the red “ready” light illuminates in the insertion slot.
NOTE: If you slide the “Temp Set” to the middle (heat
off or “cold” setting), the red “ready” light will continuously be illuminated. If the “ready” light extinguishes
(which wonʼt happen often after the unit has done its
first warm-up), it means the temperature is below the
proper setting and full A/C power is being put to the
heaters to reestablish a “constant” temperature. If this
happens when a board is going through the unit, you
will want to run the board through the unit again as
soon as it exits the unit.
Preparing your PCB laminate. There will undoubtedly
be oxidation on the copper surfaces. Using a green &
yellow “ScotchBrite” scouring pad, put a drop of dish
washing soap on the green side and with water, make
a nice scratch pattern all over the surface of the cop-
per. Rinse good and dry with a paper towel. Anything
else is overkill.
Align your toner image over the copper board and insert squarely into the slot. The drive rollers will take
the board and paper, and process it through the unit.
When it exits out the back, it will halt and stay horizontal until you pull it all the way out.
Grab the board by the edges, slide it out the back of
the unit and slip the board into a tray of water. Let the
board sit in the water bath for a minute or two to allow
the paper to lift off on its own. There is no problem if
you leave the board in the water, so donʼt worry about
geting out of the water after the paper floats off. Rinse
the board under running water and pat dry. Apply
GreenTRF as per instructions (see “About TRF Foils”).
CAUTION: Insert nothing thicker than .080”, (which
would be 1 - .064” PCB plus 2 “TTS” sheets of transfer
paper). The quick way to get a visual on board thickness is to compare the edge of your PCB to one or two
credit cards. Credit cards are all about .032” thick.
How convenient!
WARNING: Never Leave The Unit Running Unattended!
This unit runs very hot and if a malfunction were to
occur, it could result in a melt-down or worse.. a fire!
There Is No Minimum Length Of Board You Can Process, however... if it is too short (less than 3-1/2”),
youʼll have difficulty pushing it in far enough to catch
the transport rollers, and, when it comes out it might
not be long enough for you to get a hold of it! After a
board is inserted, you wonʼt be able to pull it back out
because the rollers are under extreme spring pressure.
If you insert a long board on an angle and it looks as
though it is going to hit a side wall TURN THE UNIT
OFF! On the back of the unit is an opening marked
“RELEASE”. Insert a finger ABOVE the “boxed” molding
and press down to disengage the motor to allow you
to pull the board out somewhat easily.
If the TTS paper “pops” away from the board before it
gets put in the water bath, it indicates that either the
temperature applied to the paper, or the toner density
printed on the transfer paper is too low. The first step
is to isolate these two possibilities. Cut up some of
the sample PCB “test” images that came with your unit
and test them on any piece of scrap board. Ensure the
board scrap is properly cleaned so you donʼt go on a
wild goose chase looking for the problem! If the toner
still does not properly stick, it is definitely a temperature problem and the unit may be defective.
NOTE: It is easy to “bump” the temperature switch
towards the center “heat off” position! Remember that
the red indicator will always stay illuminated when in
the “cold” position! Slide the switch far left and then
back to the far right to confirm.
If that doesnʼt fix it, run another test of your
toner image, but this time, run the board through
twice. Toners do vary a little bit in their formulations
for different OEMʼs where some require a higher heat
range. If the problem still exists, give us a call. Your
unit may need servicing. This is the only problem
weʼve experienced in our extensive testing of this unit
to date. If you experience any problems with this unit,
call us immediately! We are very interested to know of
any problems you have discovered.
Included with your unit are five different samples of
our new line of Toner Reactive Foils, each for a specific purpose. Read the information about these foils
on the inside cover of the TTS instructions. For PCB
fabrication and “Chemical Milling” of brass, youʼll be
using GreenTRF. (WhiteTRF is for “Silk Screen” layer).
The objectives of the GreenTRF is to seal the toner
from etchant getting into the toner image causing
“pitting” and also to allow you to use the new technique, called “Contact Etch” without needing an etching tank (!), fully explained in our “Tips and Tricks”
section on our web site at www.pulsar.gs.
To use GreenTRF, simply cut a piece large enough to
cover the entire length of the board. Lay the foil “dull
side down” over the toner, wrap an inch or two around
the leading edge of the board and insert it into the
TIA. Immediately grab the tail end and tug on the film
to prevent any wrinkles of the film. When the board
exits, either let the board cool to room temperature
or put in a tray of water for an instant cool-down...
then peel back the GreenTRF and discard.
The newest 1200dpi printers from HP have their
density control hidden from easy access due to the
installer putting some files in hard to find locations
on your hard drive. We have not tested the following
procedure on all of the HPʼs, so weʼd appreciate your
feedback on differences you find to be more accurate.
Users of other OEM brand names besides HP may also
find this information useful. The print driver for Win-
dows offers only a “Paper Selection” to choose Plain
Paper, Rough Paper, Transparency, etc. A thorough
review of both the printed documentation that came
with the printer and the online help confirms that the
DRIVER offers no direct way to set the density from the
Print dialogue. By choosing “Rough Paper” you can get
a little more density, but not much. What they donʼt
tell you in the documentation or help file is that there
is a separate program that gets installed with the rest
of the printer software, and you can use that program
(if you know about it) to change the toner density. The
program is accessed from START >> Programs >>
(printer name) >> Tools >> HP LaserJet Configuration Utility.
This configuration utility offers several property pages, including one that can be used to set the default
toner density. Changing this setting from its default
value of 3 to the max value of 5 makes for good PCB
transfers. However, you must remember that ANYTHING sent to the printer from ANY PROGRAM after
you do this will come out at high density. It is therefore necessary to run this “config program” again
after you are done printing onto our TTS paper. Many
set density to “1” for lowest toner consumption and
an improvement to image “crispness”. Visit our site
for the latest tricks and techniques for this “directetch” process.
Your “TIA” unit is also used for making amazing full
color decals! You already know about the Green and
WhiteTRF, “but what are these other 3 films?” you
are probably asking yourself. Refer back to the TTS
instructions under “B&W and Full Color Decals” and
“Imaging to Glass & Mirrors” columns. Thatʼs where
youʼll read about how they are used, however, there is
one product you will need to buy called “KK-2000” in
order to make use of some of these techniques. You
can order direct from us at $12.95, or call your local
“fabric” store to see if they have it in stock.
DRY FILM: Because your applicator uses “hot rollers”,
you can apply photographic “dry film” for using the
“UV” exposure system. Not bad, figuring that “real”
hot roll laminators (that have their heaters INTERNAL
to the rollers), sell for a minimum of $1,200!
CHEMICAL MILLING: The web site explains this in
detail. Since we donʼt have the room here, suffice to
say, you can make “parts” out of brass sheet in much
the same way we make PCBʼs. A real boon to “scale”
hobbyist out there.
AS A “POUCH” LAMINATOR: What a surprise! Purchase “pouches” for clear lamination purposes of
photos, etc. at your local office supply store.
1947 Sandalwood Place
Clearwater, FL 33760-1713
Voice: (727) 524-1500 • FAX: (727) 524-1225
WEB: www.pulsar.gs • eMail: mail@pulsar.gs
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