Advertisement
Advertisement
INSTRUCTION BOOK
CPFAFF)
72
INSTRUCTIONS
FOREWORD
Your dream has come true.
You are now the proud owner of a Pfaff 72, the sewing machine which will enable you to master all ordinary sewing, ornamental stitching and darning jobs that may come up in a home.
This instruction book will help you understand the machine and give you valuable tips to make sewing more fun for you.
Even if you are an experienced seamstress, you will find this book a valuable guide to easy sewing.
Follow these simple instructions and familiarize yourself with the exclusive features of your machine. You will find sewing exciting on your easy-to-operate Pfaff 72.
If you have any sewing problems, please contact your Plaff dealer. He will be glad to help you at any time.
G. M. PFAFF AG
Karlsruhe-Durlach Branch
1 Face cover
2 Take-UP lever
3 Thread retainer
4 Spool pins
5 Stitch width dial (A)
6 Needle position lever (B)
7 Bobbin winder
8 Balance wheel
9 Stop motion knob
10 Motor disengaging mechanism ii Bobbin winder thread retainer
12 Reverse feed control
13 Stitch length control
14 Bed slide
15 Pt aft rotary sewing hook
2
16 Feed dog
17 Needle plate
18 Sewing foot thumb screw
19 Light switch
20 Needle thread tension
21
Presser bar lifter
22 Needle set screw
23 Sewing foot
DR 849
Fundamentals of Machine Operation
• Whenever you have to turn the balance wheel, turn it toward you (coun ter- clockwise as shown by black arrow).
• Make sure stop motion knob on the balance wheel is tightened before you begin sewing.
• Never run a threaded machine unless you have fabric under the sewing foot.
• Place both threads back under the sewing foot before you put fabric into the machine.
• The machine will feed the material under the sewing foot automatically.
All you have to do is guide the work.
• Always bring take-up lever to its highest position before you begin and after you have completed a seam.
Failure to observe this rule may cause the thread to slip out of the needle eye. Also, it is easier to remove the work with the take-up lever up.
DR 050
3
DRO51
DR 506
Operation of Your Sewing Machine
I Engaging the Sewing Mechanism
Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob clockwise.
Disengaging the Sewing Mechanism
Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob counter-clockwise (toward you). The sewing mechanism is then disengaged for bobbin winding.
Electrical Information
Power Drive and Sewlight
Push plug 1 into receptacle 2 on back of machine, and plug 3 at other end of cord into the wall outlet. Cord 4 leads to the foot control.
Foot-driven machines have merely a sewlight cord whose plug is pushed into the wall outlet. The switch on the sewlight, push botton on face cover. Mount driving belt.
Before you drop the machine, remove the belt from the stand wheel, pulling it to the right.
DR 561
4
IL
Motor Disengaging Mechanism
Powerdriven machines feature a lever underneath the balance wheel which serves to swing the motor to its operative position. To do this, flick the lever down. After you have completed sewing, flick the lever to its top position in order to return the motor to the inoperative position.
With the motor swung out of engagement, all machines set up on treadle stands can be driven by foot power.
DR 558
4
Foot Control
Place the foot control under the cabinet within easy reach of your foot.
Rest the right foot on the control pedal and press. The harder you press, the faster the machine will run.
On some sewing cabinets, the foot control cord can be passed through the opening in the bedplate extension.
R 7132
5
DR 851
Straight Stitching
For straight-stitch sewing set:
Dial A
=
0
Lever B
=
Center
•
Control G regulates the stitch length. For detailed instructions please refer to page 18. To backtack the end of a seam, simply depress the finger-tip control.
6
DR 009A
Zigzag Sewing
If you want to switch from straight (A on O”) to zigzag stitching, turn dial A to desired stitch width (indicated by numbers 1 to 4).
Lever B changes the position of the needle in the needle plate slot. Thus the stitching can be moved from the center to the left or right of the slot, as desired.
DR 851
Control G lengthens zig zag stitches or packs them more closely together (so tin stitch).
III—
7
The position of lever B (left, center, right) indicates the position of the needle in the needle plate slot.
V
4-
41
-4
Removing the Bobbin Case
The needle has to clear the needle-plate. Lift front end of bed slide and pull.
Lift latch k with the thumb of your left hand and pull out bobbin case with bobbin. When you release the latch, the bobbin drops out.
8
DR 859
Winding the Bobbin
Disengage the sewing mechanism and raise the spool pins to the vertical position.
Place a spool of thread on one of the spooi pins and a bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle, making sure that the key at its base enters the slot in the bobbin.
Pass the thread through the righthand thread guide, down and around the thread retainer stud, and up to the bobbin. Wind a few turns of thread on the bobbin in clockwise direction. Push the bobbin to the right and start the machine. The bobbin winder will stop automatically when the bobbin is full. Press the bobbin to the left and remove it from the spindle. Then tighten the stop motion knob again.
The amount of thread to be wound on the bobbin is regulated by turning the adjusting button accordingly. Set the button at position A for the mim mum amount of thread, or at position B for the maximum. The button can be turned to the desired position after loosening its set screw with a screwdriver.
9
1
A B
.
Types of Fabrics
Fine Fabrics such as georgette, chiffon, batiste, voile, lawn, silk.
Lightweight Fabrics such as dress silks and cottons, sheer woolens, shirting, draperies.
Medium Fabrics such as lightweight woolens, madras, muslin, brocades, heavy silks and rayon, gabardine.
Heavy Fabrics such as coating, denim, corduroy, slipcover fabrics, bed tickings, lightweight canvas.
Very Heavy Fabrics such as heavy tickings, canvas, overcoating, sailcloth, upholstery
Synthetics, Rayon, Acetate including nylon, orion, dacron, plastics, etc.
Hercerize
Cotton
80 to
100
70 to
80
40 to
50
50 to
70
.
Silk
0 twist
A & B twist
& twis c
& D twist
Needle
Size
60 or
70
80
90
100
24 to
40
E twist
Determined by weight of fabric
40 to 50
90 to
110
Determined
threal size
60
to
80
12
Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes
The appearance of the finished seam is dependent on the correct relationship between needle, thread and fabric. Select the proper thread sizes and needles from this chart.
The same size threads should be used in the needle and on the bobbin. Some experienced seamstresses prefer a somewhat thinner bobbin thread. However, the bobbin thread never should be thicker than the needle thread.
For embroidery and darning work, a No. 50 thread should normally be used.
Important Facts about Needles
On Pfaff 72 sewing machines, System 130 R, flat-shank needles are used for all ordinary sewing and embroidery work. The last column in the chart on page 12 gives you the needle size required for the material in hand
Genuine Pfaff needles, System 130 Fl, are available from every Pfaff dealer.
Bent or blunt needles should not be used.
Changing the Needle
Bring needle bar to its highest point and lower sewing foot.
Loosen needle set screw a half a turn and pull old needle out of needle clamp. Make sure that the flat side of the shank faces toward the back and long groove toward you. Insert new needle into opening of needle clamp and push it up as far as it will go. Tighten needle set screw a.
13
Upper Threading
Raise the presser bar lifter and swing the spool pins up to the vertical position. Place spool 1 on one of the spool pins and lead the thread behind both scrolls of thread retainer 2 (see ill. at top of p. 15). Seize the thread on the right and left of the thread retainer and pull it toward you until it snaps into the eyelets. It suffices to drew the thread into the left eyelet.
Pull the thread between any two of tension discs 3 (see ill, at bottom of p. 15) and jerk it far to the right so that it slips properly into the slot and under the thread check spring. As you do this, press the thread against the casting between spool and tension.
Bring take-up lever 4 as high as it will go and pass the thread from right to left through the hole at its end. Lead the thread down and into slot S. Then thread the needle from front to back.
14
St iQ
9c
/
/
Drawing Up the Bobbin
Thread
DR 046
A
Hold needle thread lightly in your left hand. Turn balance wheel toward you until the needle moves once down and up again. Lightly pull needle thread to draw bobbin thread up through the needle hole.
Place both threads back under the sewing foot.
Correct Tension Regu’ation
Balanced tensions are essential far sewing. If your tensicn is correct, you will have perfect seams as sketched below (Ill).
C a u s e :
Cause
Sketch I fabric.
—
The threads interlock on the underside of the
Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight.
Sketch II —The threads interlock on the surface of the fabric.
Upper tension too tight or lower tension too loose.
I I
I I I
I
16
I
Regulating the Thread Tension
The bobbin thread tension has been set for a medium grade and need not be adjusted for all ordinary sewing operations. If a special sewing operation should require a looser or tighter tension, turn the small knurled screw on the bobbin case with the tip of your thumb as follows:
Turn it left W’\ for looser tension.
Turn it right for tighter tension.
Determine whether the bobbin thread tension is set for a medium grade by holding the thread end between thumb and forefinger and letting the bobbin case hang freely. The tension should be strong enough to keep the bobbin case from being pulled down by its own weight. However, as you jerk your hand slightly, the bobbin case should gradually slide down.
Do not turn the knurled screw too far to the left to keep it from falling out.
Choose the lower tension slightly stronger when doing ornamental stitching to be sure you always have a nead satin stitch on the right side of the fabric.
V
DR 580
A
The final stitch appearance can be regulated by the upper tension dial, as follows:
Turn left
Turn right y for looser tension.
for tighter tension.
The upper tension is so designed that all grades of tension
— loose to tight
— can be covered with one complete turn of the tension dial. The numbers on the tension dial indicate different degrees of tension. The higher the number, the greater the tension. Oniy in very rare cases will it be necessary to reset the ten sion. For ordinary sewing, the upper tension should be set between 3 and 5.
Your upper tension has a third tension disc for twoneedle work.
R8029
17
DR 008
Stitch Length Regulation
The stitch length control serves to regulate the stitch length and to limit it in sewing backwards.
The numbers on the control indicate the stitch length (the higher the num ber, the longer the stitch). When the control is set on “0” the machine ceases feeding. The maximum stitch length is six stitches to the inch.
To regulate the stitch length, turn the control until the number indicating the desired stitch length is opposite the mark on the left edge of the slot.
(The position of the mark is indicated by an arrow in the illustration).
I
Reverse Sewing
To sew in reverse, simply press the finger-tip control down.
control is released, the machine resumes forward sewing.
When the
This feature is ideal for backtacking the beginning or end of for darning rips.
a seam and
18 DR 009
Changing the Sewing Foot
Lift both needle and presser bar to their highest positions and turn sewing foot thumb screw b to the left. Tilt the foot sideways and pull it down.
DR 866
Ii it
T
Reverse procedure to slip on new foot and tighten screw b securely.
DR 867
19
DR 855
Dropping the Machine Feed
Remove the bed cover and press the drop feed lever down slantwise, then to the rear and up (as indicated by the white arrow). The lever will be retained in this position and the fabric will cease feeding.
The machine feed is dropped for darning, hoop embroidery and button sewing.
To raise the machine feed, press the lever down and let it return to its original position.
Darning and Embroidery Foot
Remove the sewing foot. Attach darning foot No. 93-102 826-91 from the rear. Hold spring clip c so that it is behind the needle set screw, and tighten screw b.
20
DR854
All-Purpose Sewing Foot
(with Clear-View Shoe)
All-purpose sewing foot No. 93-100 179-00 is attached as instructed on page 19.
The transparency of its shoe facilitates all sewing operation where it is important to watch the needle penetrate the fabric.
Special application possibilities are discussed in the second part of this book under the heading Using Sewing Feet and Attachments.
21
DR 853
Care and Maintenance
Longevity and smooth machine performance are dependent on regular and proper cleaning and oiling.
Use Pfaff sewing machine oil only, Never lubricate machine with animal or vegetable oils.
All moving and rotating parts require regular lubrication. Begin under the bedplate. If you have a portable machine, tilt it back, loosen the large thumb screw on the underside cf the machine base, and remove the base.
In replacing the machine base, tighten thumb screw lightly.
DR 053
A
From time to time, lubricate the needle bar frame bearings in the sewing head.
Removing the face cover see page 24.
The principal oiling points are marked by ar rows in the illustrations on these pages.
DR 852
22
4 There are two openings in the rim of the width dial, one on the left and the other stitch at the back (see arrows). These openings are the oil holes of the zigzag mechanism.
DR 886
DR A 864
Do not lubricate the bobbin winder.
The raceway in the sewing hook is the most important oiling point. Put you sew (see picture at top one drop of oil into the raceway each day right).
From time to time, remove the needle plate and clean the machine feed with a soft brush. Take a toothpick and remove lint. Take out the bobbin case and the bobbin accumulations of packed and clean the vicinity of the sewing hook.
Before you begin to oil the mechanism needle-bar end of the machine, remove the under the bedplate and at the dirt and lint which has accumu lated on these parts.
23
DR 887
DR024
Changing the Light Bulb
The built-in 15-watt sewing light illuminates the area of stitching perfectly.
To change the light bulb, remove the face cover, push the bulb into its socket, turn left, and pull out. When inserting new light bulb, be sure to slide bulb pins into socket slots. Press bulb in and turn right.
V
Removing the Face Cover
To change the light bulb or oil the parts at the needle-bar end, remove the face cover by pulling it upwards.
DR 512
Replacing the Face Cover
Slip tip d into slot e and push face cover
4 up until it snaps into place.
24
DR 5C5
Trouble Shooting
1. Machine Skips Stitches
Cause:
Needle incorrectly inserted.
Wrong needle.
Needle bent,
Machine threaded improperly.
Needle too fine or too thick for the thread.
2. Needle Thread Breaks
Cause:
The above mentioned may cause thread breakage.
Thread tension too tight.
Poor or knotty thread used.
Hook raceway is jammed with thread or needs oiling.
Burrs or sharp edges on needle plate slot.
Remedy:
Push needle up as far as it will go and be sure that the long groove faces toward you, and flat side of shank away from you.
Choose the correct needle from chart on page 12. (For ordinary sewing, use System 130 R needles.)
Insert new needle.
Check and correct threading as instructed on pages 14 and 15.
Use correct needle and thread (see chart an page 12.)
Remedy:
See remedies listed under 1. above.
Adjust tensions as instructed.
Use good quality threads only.
Clean and oil hook raceway.
Polish needle plate slot with fine emery cloth.
25
3. Needle Breaks
Cause
Bent needle strikes point of sewing hook.
Needle too thin or thread too heavy.
Fabric pulls needle so it bends and strikes needle plate.
Bobbin case inserted incorrectly.
4.
Faulty Stitch Formation
Cause:
Improper tension.
Thread too heavy, knotty or hard.
Bobbin unevenly wound.
Pieces of thread between tension discs.
5. Machine Feeds Improperly
Cause:
Feed dog dropped.
Machine does not feed because stitch length control set on “0”.
Accumulations of lint packed between feed teeth.
Remedy:
Replace needle at once to prevent further damage.
Use correct needle and thread sizes.
Don’t force the feeding motion. Guide the material lightly.
Push bobbin case until you hear it snap into place.
Remedy:
Adjust tensions as instructed.
Use only first-rate thread
— the correct size for the needle and fabric.
Don’t run thread over finger when winding the bobbin (see page 9.)
Raise presser bar lifter and remove thread.
Remedy:
Raise feed dog (see page 20).
Regulate stitch length, as desired.
Take off needle plate and remove lint with a stiff brush.
26
6. Machine Works Heavily
Cause:
Hook raceway lacks oil or is obstructed by pieces of thread.
Mechanism clogged by inferior oil.
Bobbin winder working while sewing.
7. Motor idles
Cause:
Motor disengaging lever raised.
Remedy:
Clean and oil hook raceway.
Use only Pfaff sewing machine oil
Stop bobbin winder.
Remedy:
Flick lever down (see page 5).
— never salad oil or glycerine.
Thread Jamming
The Pfaff rotary hook will not normally jam, even if the machine should be handled improperly. If thread should happen to jam in the hook raceway, the power of the motor in most instances will be sufficient to overcome hard working of the mechanism.
If this action should not free the jammed thread put a drop of kerosene into the hook raceway, jerk the balance wheel back, then rock it back and forth.
27
I
Using Sewing Feet and Attachments
(setting see page 6)
Zipper Insertion
Machine Setting: A
=
0, B
Pin or baste closed zipper on wrong side of fabric. Position of zipper depends on whether or not you want the edge of the fabric to overlap the zipper. Turn fabric to right side. Run a straight seam close to left edge of zipper, stitch across end and up the other side in one conti nuous operation. Use right edge of foot as a guide.
‘V
8
Edge Stitching
Machine Setting: A 0 to 4, B
=
Sew parallel rows of straight or zig zag stitches at various distances from the fabric edge by using adjustable seam guide No. 847 300 and the edge stitcher (without quilting gauge). The seam guide is fastened to the machine bed with the long thumb screw. For wider marginal stitching, turn edge guide half a turn and use low end as a guide.
(To sew narrow parallel seams, guide fabric edge or prece ding seam along right edge of sew ing foot, using no edge guide.)
DR 868
Quilting
Machine Setting: A 0, B
= i
Edge stitcher No. 847 600 used with the quilting gauge sews parallel rows of stitching at any distance over the entire surface of the fabric. Always guide the gauge finger along the pre ceding row of stitches.
Attractive tea cosies, slippers, seat pads and covers can be quilted.
28
DR 033 R 002
DR 869
47 561
Flat Felled Seams
Machine Setting: A
=
0, B =
*
Flat felled seams are used to durably join two pieces of fabric. They are made in two operations.
Flat felled seams usually are straight-stitched. Narrow zigzag stitches are used for felling on elasticized fabrics only.
I First Seam
Lay pieces together with the right sides facing and the bottom piece protruding V8 inch. Feed both pieces into felling foot, as illustrated, so that the bottom fabric is folded over edge of top piece and stitched down.
Make sure that protruding seam allowance is not fol ded twice,
Second Seam
Open the two pieces, place them under the needle right side up, insert seam ridge into felling foot opening, and stitch down to the left. Make sure that second seam is placed close to the edge but not beyond it. The felling foot has a needle slot, rather than a needle hole, to permit zigzag felling.
29 DR 049
847 551
Hemming
Machine Setting: A 0 or 2 to 3; B 4-
The hemmer foot is indispensable if you want to sew a uniform hem.
You can hem with straight or zigzag stitches, depending on the type of fabric you are using.
Fold over edge of fabric about 1 to facilitate insertion into the hemmer foot. Place fabric under hemmer foot so that the needle stitches in the material about 1/2” short of its rear edge and close to the folded edge.
Sew backwards as far as the rear fabric edge. Take the work out of the machine by pulling it forward. Don’t trim the threads (sketch 1).
Draw the fabric into the scroll of the hemmer by pulling both threads back wards. Inserting the fabric into the scroll like this will ensure a neat hem right from the beginning. Feed fabric so that the hem edge is in line with the left edge of the hemmer scroll. Don’t crowd fabric into the scroll, but keep scroll well filled with fabric at all times (see ill, at top).
DR 870
Avoid ugly ends by slowing down feeding. To do this, press the fabric against the needle plate on the left side of the foot before you come to the end of the hem (see ill. at bottom).
If you want to hem several edges, hem first edge to within about
1/2” of corner, cut away remaining portion of hem, as shown in sketch 2. Then hem the second edge, as instructed above.
Before you hem the last edge, cut away about as illustrated in sketch 3.
1/3” of the hem sewn first,
2fl
DR 509 30
u
838 954
Overcasting Edges
Machine Setting: A
=
2 to 4; B
=
4
4 Overcasting prevents frayed edges. Use a long wide zigzag stitch and with the needle taking one stitch into the fabric and the other sew edge over its edge
(normal tension setting). You may overcas edges after fabric is cut and before the pieces are joined.
Butt Seaming u
838 954
Two similar pieces of fabric which do not ravel easily may be butted together
Machine Setting: A
=
3 or 4, B
=
DR 872 and joined with zigzag stitches. Worn bed sheets may be mended this way. Cut out worn center strip. Place the selvaged edges of the remaining pieces of sheet under the sewing foot so that the abutted edges are centered under the needle.
loin them with close, wide zigzag stitches to obtain a neat and flat seam. Hem raw edges of sheet.
31
DR 046
V
DR 055
R 7157
_e38954
Inserting Patches
Machine Setting: A
=
4 B
Large holes can be patched quickly. The following method may particularly be used for jersey fabrics. Cut patch square or rectangular so that the grain will match the rest of the fabric. Place the patch over the damaged
I area. Sew it down with a wide zigzag stitch of medium length.
I For additional strength stitch over corners twice. Turn over and trim close to seams.
u
838 954
Attaching Lace
I You can attach lace edging in one simple operation. Fold the edge of the
Machine Setting: A
=
2 B fabric about /8” over to the wrong side, following the texture, and pre ferably iron it down. Place the straight edge of the lace on the fold of the fabric and sew it down with narrow zigzag stitches, taking one stitch into lace and fabric and the other into lace only. Cut off excessive cloth on the wrong side of the material close to the seam.
I
DR 871
32
,—.
—
DF 033
338 954
Applique Work
-
Machine Setting: A
=
2, B
Applique is easy and modern.
Trace design on wrong side of fabric and baste a piece of contrasting material o right side.
Outline design on wrong side with a narrow zigzag stitch
— and the motive will appear on right side.
Applique is very effective on buster suits, pinafores, bibs, frocks, covers, wall hang ings, or wherever a gay note is desired.
Fill out small, but essential sections of design with granito stitches.
V
Trim excess material close to the seam and sew over edges of applique with a mediumwide satin stitch. If you want to give the design a plastic effect, use buttonhole foot Nr. 847 616 or all-purpose sewing foot, flick lever B to the left and setinstitch over a filler thread (see also page 36).
R 7220
::
DR 001
838 954
Straight-Stitch Hemstitching
Machine Seing: A
=
0; B
= +
Stitch length: Medium
4 Insert twin hemstitching needle, System 130 ZwiHo, as instructed on page 13. Turn out needle set screw a little further than for ordinary needles.
The thread size, threading procedure and thread tension are the same as for cording work (see page 41).
Beautiful hemstitching effects on blouses, dresses, handkerchiefs, doilies and so forth, can be obtained with Pfaffs System 130 twin needle. The harder the fabric yarn, the more pronounced the hemstitching will be.
For this reason, batiste, organdy, georgette, etc. are best suited to hem stitching, while woolly fabrics are not recommended.
Procedure
Fold fabric to mark seamline or trace seamline on fabric. Sew first row.
Guide fabric so that wing needle stitches along traced line. At the end of the seam, turn fabric half a turn and sew second row. Guide fabric in such a way that wing needle penetrates the needle holes it has made and enlarged previously.
Imitation hemstitching thus requires at least two operations. If desired, additional straight or curved ornamental seams may be stitched parallel to the first one. Exciting decorative effects may be obtained by using vari colored embroidery and darning threads.
R 8427
Zigzag Hemstitching
Machine Setting: A
=
Up to 11/2; B
=
4
Procedure
Same as above, except that the wing needle should penetrate the traced line only when it is on the left of its throw.
34
93-100179
Button Sewing
Dont be afraid to sew on buttons, or rings with your Pfaff. The needle won’t break and the threads will not get loose either. The latter may happen only with ready-made clothing sewn with a chain stitch. It won’t be worthwile to take the machine out for sewing on a single button, but you will appreciate this feature when sewing lines of buttons on pillow and bed covers, on shirts or dresses, or when fastening rings on curtains etc. There your machine will come in very handy. Attach all-purpose sewing foot
No. 93-100 179-00. Stitch length
=
0.
Hooks and ayes are sewn on with the aid of a special button sewing foot,
No. 847 608, which can be obtained from your Pfaff dealer.
DR 583
Machine Setting: A 0 B
, feed dog dropped.
Place button under button sewing foot and align so that needle will enter left hole. Let needle stitch through hole and make one or two stitches. Raise needle. Turn dial A counter-clockwise, usually to 3, until needle on the right of its throw is centered over right hole. Start machine and sew as many zig zag stitches as you deem necessary to fasten button securely.
Return dial A to 0 and make two or three tying stitches.
When sewing on four-hole buttons, reposition button and repeat the above process, stitching through the second pair of holes.
Hooks, eyes or rings are attached in the same manner.
35
I Sewing Buttonholes
Machine Setting: A
=
1
‘/2
(first notch) B
=
Stitch Length: Almost 0 (for buttonhole seam)
Attach buttonhole foot No. 847 616 and set slide on buttonhole gauge, to buttonhole length desired. The buttonhole is the right length when beginn ing of first seam reaches red end of slide indicator (see arrow). When you follow the procedure on the opposite page, the bartacks at each end of your buttonhole will be twice as wide as a buttonhole seam.
If you prefer more prominent buttonholes, pull a filler cord in the guide groove. To get the correct stitch length, sew on a piece of scrap material.
In making buttonholes in soft or loosely woven fabrics, it is advisable to place a piece of tissue paper under the material, To strengthen button holes in tricot and knit fabrics, insert a piece of firmly woven cotton ma terial between the fabric layers.
Buttonholes may be made with the aid of the all-purpose sewing foot. Place the filler cord in the left groove of the clear-view shoe,
36
Instruction for Buttonholing
1 Sew first side over a filler cord. When beginning of seam reaches red end of slide indicator on button hole gauge, it is the right length. Leave needle in fabric on right side of its throw.
2 Lift foot, turn fabric around clockwise, using needle as a pivot. Pull filler cord around the needle to the left and lay it parallel to completed line of stitching.
Lower foot and take one stitch to the left.
3 Turn dial A until it is caught in second notch. Make
4 to 6 bartack stitches, slightly holding the material to reduce length of bar.
37
In p
Np I
0
© ©
0
4 Change dial A to “1
“.
Trim filler cord at end of first stitch row.
Sew second row and stop about 4 to 6 stitches (h/io”) from end of first row.
5 Turn dial A to second notch position. Make second tack, as instructed above (under 3).
6 Turn dial A to “0” and make 3 or 4 fastening stitches.
7 Trim both the sewing and filler threads. Open the buttonhole with your seam ripper. Be careful not to injure the bartacks.
DROS6
Darrnng
DR 057
DR 559
Machine setting: A 0, B
Prepare your machine for darning as instructed on page 20. Place fabric into darning center of the hoop. Hoops may be obtained from your Pfaff dealer.
hoop, the damaged area being in the
Triangular Tears
Triangular tears are best darned by placing the torn section between hoops and making close stitches across and lengthwise. Move work under the needle with both hands.
Thin Spots
Remember that “a stitch in time sa ves nine” and reinforce spots that have worn thin with short stitches made lengthwise and across worn section. This job can be done with out foot too.
Small Holes
Darn small and medium-size holes by trimming ragged edges with the fabric grain. First stitch back and forth across the hole from one side to the other with the machine running at high speed. Then turn the fabric at right angles and sew back and forth over preceding work with short stit ches. Make sure the stitches are ta ken right into the good material.
Long Rips may be darned with the normal sew ing foot and without hoops. Raise feed dog and use forward-reverse feed control.
38
OR 038
Monogram Embroidery
Machine Setting; A
=
3 to 4, B
=
‘I
I Drop feed dog. Script letters are best for monogram embroidery without a sewing foot. It requires a little practice. You will soon enjoy creative embroidery once you have learned to move the material at a uniform rate.
The fabric should be held taut in the hoops and the presser bar lifter lowered. Let the needle stitch into the fabric at the beginning of your design and draw bobbin thread up through the fabric. Hold both thread ends and sew over outline, moving hoops slowly and evenly. To give your monogram dimensional quality, embroider outline twice. Be sure stitches are closely spaced.
—
954
—
93-IaQIq meA 2h,s to 3, B
=‘
The procedure below is primarily used for block letters. Set needle plate so that feed dog feeds the material. Attach all-purpose sewing foot and set machine for satin stitch. Sew outlines of monogram, making sure that seams do not overlap at joints of letters.
39
DR 031
Cording
Machine Setting: A
=
0
‘
B
To cord on your Pfaff 72, use a cording foot and a twin needle.
Twin needles are available for needle distances of 1.2 (3/64”), 1.6 (1/16”), 1.8, 2.0 (5/64”), 2.5 (3/32”), 3.0, and 4.0 (5/32”) millimeters.
Cording feet are available in three varieties, as follows:
Pin tucks are made with cording foot No. 847 680 (7 grooves, 3/64” wide each) and a 1 .2-mm twin needle.
For narrow cording use cording foot No. 847 675 (5 grooves, 1/16” wide each; see ill.) and a 1.6-mm twin needle.
Wider cording is made with cording foot No. 847 671 (3 grooves, 5/64” wide each) and a twin needle with a needle distance of 2.0 or 2,5 millimeters.
Cording feet and twin needles, System 13, are supplied on special request and at extra cost.
‘II
DR 865
Changing the N ee dIe and the Sewing Foot
Bring take-up lever to highest point, loosen needle set screw a, and pull ordinary needle out of needle clamp. Insert twin needle into opening of needle clamp and push it up as far as it will go. Make sure that the flat side of the shank faces toward the back. Tighten needle set screw a securely.
40
Turn sewing foot thumb screw b to the left and take out the sewing foot. Slip on cording foot and tighten screw b securely.
It is best to turn out screw b completely if you want to slip on a cording foot with the guide attached.
Thread Size
Pin tucks and narrow cording are made with a No. 50 embroidery thread, and on the bobbin.
Set the machine for a medium stitch length.
wider cording with sewing silk in the needle
Upper Threading
Place a spool of thread on each of the two spool pins. Pass both thread
2, as illustrated on page 15. Lead one thread between the rear and center center and front tension discs of upper tension 3. Raise takeup lever 4 through the hole at its end, Pull threads into slot 5, and thread each needle ends through both thread retainer openings tension discs, and the other between the to its highest position and pass both threads from front to back.
The bobbin thread is drawn up as instructed on page 16. To do this, hold both needle threads in your left hand.
Thread Tension
Slightly increase the bobbin thread tension, and increase or decrease the needle thread tension depending on the type of fabric used. If the tension has been set correctly, the bobbin thread should appear as a faint zigzag line on the other side.
Filled Cording
If you want to make cording in filmy fabrics or render your cording more prominent, Plaff recommends that you insert a filler cord. Its thickness depends on the cording size you want.
Remove the bed slide and pass the filler cord from below through hole g located in front of the oval needle hole f (see ill, on page 40). Lay the end of the filler cord back under the cording foot (together with the needle and bobbin thread ends). Pull a filler cord forward under the bed slide and place the ball in your lap.
41
DR 521
Spacing between Tucks
To ensure uniform spacing between parallel tucks, place the preceding seam into one of the grooves of the foot and use it as a guide.
For a larger spacing between tucks, use the adjustable guide (see ill, on page 41) which is part of every cording foot.
Various Cording Effects
Attractive cording effects may be obtained by combining horizontal, vertica’ and diagonal tucks or stitching curved tucks (see ill. below). If you want to turn a corner, leave needle in fabric (up to needle eye only), lift foot, turn fabric, lower foot, and continue sewing. To stitch an acute angle, turn fabric halfway, let needle make one stitch, turn fabric all the way, and resume stitching.
DR 058
DR 473
DR 474 OR 475
OR 058 A
42
L
DR 059
-—
Ornamental Sewing
You can make exciting fashion stitch designs by zigzag stitching, varying stitch length, stitch width alternating straight and or needle position by hand. This will be easy after you have had sufficient practice. Some of the designs you can make are illustrated below.
or zigzag sewing foot
-
For ornamental sewing, use all-purpose sewing foot
No. 838 954.
L
Interesting two-needle effects can be obtained by using a 1.6-mm twin sewing, needle (see page 40) and different color thread. For twin-needle
1/2”.
the stitch width dial should not be turned beyond “1
43 DR 858
OR 545
93-100179
Coarse Thread Embroidery
Machine Setting: Stitch width lever A
0 to 4; needle position lever B = optional; stitch length: small to medium.
Buy coarse, four-ply embroidery thread in the desired co lors from your Pfaff dealer. Embroidery designs made with this thread are very attractive. They have dimensional quality and closely resemble manual embroidery work
The adjoining designs were made with the zigzag stitch. To make the design illustrated in the middle, alternate straight and zigzag stitching.
Machine embroidery is made with the machine running at a moderate speed.
44
H
Stitching Synthetic Materials
Curtains
Machine Setting: Stitch width lever A stitch length control 1.
=
1 to 3, depending on material; needle position lever B
=
To finish the edge of synthetic curtain fabrics, such and lower tensions somewhat.
as Diolen, use a matching synthetic thread. If necessary, ease the upper
Both these hints should be adhered to in order to seam the various sections of curtains, proceed as avoid shrinking of both the thread and the fabric instructed on p. 31.
in the laundry. To butt
Plastic Sheets
Machine Setting: Stitch width lever A =
0 to 2; needle position lever B =
‘0 stitch length: medium.
Plastic curtains, as are used in kitchens and bathrooms, a piece of tissue paper under sticky plastic sheets which can be easily removed after the sewing. To from sticking to the sewing foot, wipe its sole with are sewn with synthetic thread or cotton and a an oily cloth.
fine needle. Place prevent plastic sheets
45
Foreword
Essential Parts
Fundamentals of Machine Operation
Operation of Your Sewing Machine
Engaging the Sewing Mechanism
Power and Foot Drive
Motor Disengaging Mechanism
Foot Control
Straight Stitching
Zigzag Sewing
Removing the Bobbin Case
Winding the Bobbin
Inserting a Full Bobbin into Bobbin Case
• .
Inserting the Bobbin Case
Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes
Important Facts about Needles
Changing the Needle
Upper Threading
Correct Tension Regulation
Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread
Regulating the Thread Tension
Stitch Length Regulation
Reverse Sewing
Changing the Sewing Foot
Dropping the Machine Feed
Darning foot
All-purpose Sewing Foot
Page
1
2
3
9
10
8
7
11
12
13
5
5
4
4
6
17
18
18
19
20
20
21
Contents
Care and Maintenance
Cleaning and Oiling
Removing and Replacing the Face Cover
Changing the Ligth Bulb
Trouble Shooting
Using Sewing Feet and Attachments
Zipper Insertion
Edge Stitching
Quilting
.
Flat Felled Seams
Hemming
.
Overcasting Edges
Butt Seaming
Inserting Patches
Attaching Lace
Applique Work
Straight-Stitch Hemstitching
Zigzag Hemstitching
Button Sewing
Sewing Buttonholes
.
Darning
Monogram Embroidery
Sewing Monograms
Cording
Ornamental Sewing
Course Thread Embroidery
Stitching Synthetic Materials
Page
• .
• • •
•
•
.
22
24
24
25
• .
.
34
35
36
38
32
32
33
34
39
39
40
43
44
45
28
28
28
29
30
31
31
48
Advertisement