Instructions for
Real Good Toys’
Victoria’s Farmhouse
Special Edition Kit #JM-1065
Congratulations on your choice of a Real Good Toys product. Your kit has been precision made with meticulous care by our craftspeople using carefully selected materials. This Dollhouse will last for years, even generations, if heirloom care and attention is given during assembly. Take your time and read the instructions completely. If you have questions, ask the experts at your local Dollhouse store or at
Before you begin - You have already opened the box and see all the parts organized in boxes and bundles.
For the moment, keep them that way. There are important things to do before you open your glue bottle.
Prepare your space: This dollhouse will spread out
over a large area while it is being built. You will need
a large flat tabletop for the house, several boxes to keep
parts organized until they are needed, and several trays
lined with waxed paper for holding small parts like
windows and railings.
A snap-lid box will keep your tools and supplies handy
between building sessions.
Preview the Overview (page 3) to plan and organize
your build; this helps make it fun and fulfilling.
Measure and identify the parts: The kit is packed in
groupings that protect the parts, and that is how the Parts
List is organized. As you measure and identify the parts,
label them with sticky notes using the names from the parts
list, and check them off the parts list so you know you have
everything. Taking the time now to identify and organize
the parts also makes them familiar so you will understand
what the instructions intend as you read ahead.
• Plan ahead so you know where you are going
• Read ahead so you know how to get there
• Paint ahead so the parts will be ready when you need them
Paint: Interior semi-gloss latex paint... Everything gets at least one coat before assembly - get the paint now.
Paintbrushes 1” or 2” foam brushes for each color, 3” foam roller for interior painting
Sandpaper: 320 grit, 3-5 sheets
Glue: Aleene’s Tacky Glue for the dollhouse, Solvent-Based panel cement for shingles
Masking tape: ¾” or 1”
Wiring: it’s easiest to install some parts during assembly… order wiring supplies now.
Screwdriver: #1 Phillips
Not suitable for children under 13 years of age
Wallpaper paste: Roman’s “Border” Paste
California 93120 compliant for formaldehyde phase 2
Real Good Toys  122 Gallison Hill Rd Montpelier VT 05602  802 479-2217 
Assembly Notes /Getting Started (A) page 2
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Options for building the Victoria’s Farmhouse Dollhouse (also visit
Exterior Paint Color:
see for suggestions
Flower Boxes
Foundation Stucco Grit
Octagonal Shingles
Fancy Windows and Doors
Turnposts and Spindles
Interior paint color:
Note: I often enlarge an interior door opening to fit the #6022
Painted walls
A Doghouse for
your Dollhouse
Interior trim
Windows: fit full-size single and double cutouts available working or non-working
Faux-wood finish (do it now)
Applied wood, tile, or carpet
Painted floors
Banister & Landing Rails
Window and Door trim
Baseboard and Crown
Split Octagonal Shingles
Shingle Dye
Dye1: Reddish Brown
Dye3: Dark Grey
Real Good Toys’ Best1
Dollhouse Wiring Set
Trim and Stripwood
#4017 Pine Stair
and Landing Set
6803 Banister
& Landing Set
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Overview of the Build:
Details of each step will be expanded along the way, but lots of
folks like to see how it all fits together before they start.
Identify and label all of the parts
Pre-Assemble: Front Steps, Chimney, Bay Wall Sets, Foundation, and the Top Floor/Gable Floor
Paint everything one coat
Option: Faux-wood floor finish on the floors
Sand everything until the paint is smooth, transparent, and
some of the wood is showing through
Second-coat the Walls, and the porch sections of the Floors
Option: Add an Electrification Slot to the Base Floor
Build the housebody up to the Attic Endwalls and Gable
Optional: Start the wiring
Mark, paint, and attach the Roofs (but not the Rear Roof)
Optional: Attic wiring
Install the Dividers (but not the Blind Dividers)
Optional: Finish the wiring
Assemble and finish painting everything else
Finish the Attic - attach the Rear Roof
Finish the outside
Finish the inside
Assembly Tips:
A large, clutter-free, well-lighted work area is helpful
during assembly, but a flat work surface is essential.
Read the instructions carefully; look at each of the illus-
trations. !With the parts in your hands!, think the assembly
through before you proceed.
Test fit each time you are ready to glue a piece in place...
then you’ll know you have it right.
If more tape or a helper is needed, it’s good to know that
before the parts have glue on them.
Don’t be stingy with glue or tape; use generous amounts.
Always wipe off excess glue immediately.
Keep one damp rag and one dry rag handy all the time.
Have weights available for holding things tight as glue
joints dry (stacks of books, gallons of pure Vermont Maple
Syrup - anything heavy)
Glue the body of your dollhouse together with white,
water clean-up glue that dries clear. Do not use instantbond (super glue), fast-tack, rubber cement, silicone, or hot
melt glues. They are all used in some wood applications,
but they all have some characteristic that makes them undesirable for the body of your dollhouse. Carpenter Glue
works well, but glue-smear dries yellow or tan; many of
the things you glue onto the house are pre-painted – extra
glue will show. I use Aleene’s Tacky Glue® for all house
body assembly.
Make sure everything is straight and flat as glue dries...
That’s the shape that will be permanent.
Assembly Notes /Getting Started (A) page 3
Slideshows, demos, useful links, details, and photos are all at:
Glue the shingles on with glue that doesn’t have any
water in it! If the glue says ”water clean-up”, it will curl the
wooden shingles. Look carefully at the glue you intend to
use to be sure it is solvent-based, or use hot-melt glue (and
watch out for the burns). Check ingredients and warnings!
Solvent-based glues say “Caution, Flammable”.
If you Wallpaper, use Yes® craft paste (for bookbinding or
collage) or pre-mixed Roman’s “Border” paste.
Brush paste on the wallpaper, then the wall, and finally
smooth the wallpaper into position.
Taking things apart: Heat softens glue. If you have to take
things apart, warm the part in the oven at 170o for up to a half
hour to let the heat get into the joint where the glue is. Don’t
let it get hotter than you can touch or the paint may scorch.
Don’t heat window panes.
When glue is drying, skip ahead to up-coming assembly
steps and prepare the parts that will be used
Before you begin, read the “Finish the Inside” section on the
last page.
Q: Can I wallpaper before I assemble the doll house?
A: Yes you can (it’s your house!) Many experienced builders
are advocates of papering before construction - I am not.
My biggest objection to papering first is that you are always
too skimpy with glue so none will squeeze out and get on
the paper. I try to use the amount of glue that fills the joint,
so some will squeeze out in every joint and be wiped up.
But wiping glue off of wallpaper leaves a streak, so the
temptation is to go skimpy, and the joints aren’t as strong.
Second, I can always tell a house that was pre-papered
because the corners show a void instead of being continuous
(see the slideshows about how to crowd the papers together
in the corner... you can’t do that with pre-papered walls).
Third, I have had to replace paper too often that has gotten
damaged by glue or tape during construction... that wastes
time and paper ($) and can make it so you are left deciding whether to replace a damaged paper or letting it slide
because you don’t have any more of that pattern and you’ll
have to order it and that takes too much time (running out
but then needing another piece is a distressing moment).
Finally, I don’t find pre-papering to be faster. By the time I
have done all of the extra planning that getting the papers in
the right place requires, I have used up any potential advantage. I have great big blacksmith’s hands, and papering in a
finished house is easy for me.
All that having been said, I do pre-cut the papers used in the
attic before attaching the Roofs and I paper in front of the
Blind Dividers (21/2”) before I glue them in place.
Parts List page 4
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Identify the parts: Open one bundle at-a-time. Measure each part and find it on the parts list.
Label the parts and group them by the ‘instruction section #’ at the end of each part’s name(#).
These groups are how the parts will be used.
Loose Parts:
(2) E8130 Front/Back Foundation1: (1/2) 33 x 13/4
Top Stair Block
(4) E8131 Middle Foundation1: (1/2) 183/4 x 13/4
Gable Foundation
(2) E9801 Bottom Stair Block : (6Step) 21/4
(2) E9802 Top Stair Block10: (6Step) 21/4
(1) E8104 Gable Left Roof2: (1/4) 141/8 x 141/8, Bev.
Gable Left Roof
(1) E8103 Gable Right Roof2: (1/4) 141/8 x 141/8, Bev.
(2) E8128 Attic Endwall : ( /8) 10 /8 Tall x 15 /8 Base, Groove
(1) E8127 Gable Triangle2: (3/8) 105/8 Tall x 151/8 Base, Groove
Attic Endwall
(1) E8129 Attic Partition10: (3/8) 101/4 x 91/4 Base
(2) E8110 Gable Right SideB: (Clapboard) 9 x 53/4
Bottom Stair Block
(1) E8118 Top Floor1: (3/8) 28 x 141/2, Stair hole
(4) E8125 Divider10: (3/8) 9 x 21/2
(2) E8133 Eave2: (1/4) 12 x 2
(1) E8101 Front Roof2: (1/4) 301/2 x 141/8, Cutout
(1) E8102 Rear Roof2: (1/4) 301/2 x 2, Bev.
(3) E8105 False Eave6: (1/4) 11/2 x 153/4, Bev.
Attic Partition
Gable Triangle
(1) E8132 Gable Foundation3: (1/4) 14 x 13/4
(1) E8106 Access Bay Roof : ( /4) 8 x 1 /4. Bev
(1) E8119 Middle (“Mid”) Floor1: (3/8) 331/4 x 20, Stair hole
(1) E8120 Base Floor1: (1/4) 331/4 x 20
Panels Bundle:
(1) E8122 Gable Top Floor1: (3/8) 141/2 x 53/4
(1) E8111 Access Bay FrontB: (Clapboard) 171/8 x 67/8, Cutouts
Top Floor
(1) E8114 Lower Right FrontB: (Clapboard) 9 x 131/8, Door&Window Cutout
Electrification slot
(1) E8115 Upper Right FrontB: (Clapboard) 9 x 131/8, Window Cutout
(1) E8123 Access Bay Middle Floor1: (3/8) 1 x 61/4
The Electrification Slots in the Middle and Top
(1) E8141 Access Bay Spacer1: (3/8) 11/2 x 61/4
Floors make it easier to run tape style wiring from
(1) E8107 Left SideB: (Clapboard) 1819/32 x 105/8, Grooved
floor to floor. If you intend to wire this dollhouse,
(2) E8142 Access Bay SidesB: (Clapboard) 171/8 x 25/32 carve the bottom of this slot as part of step #10
so you will be able to slip tape into it
(1) E8109 Gable Left SideB: (Clapboard) 1819/32 x 3, Grooved
from the bottom (see step 10)
(2) E8126B Divider10: (3/8 mdf) 9 x 141/8, Door
(6) E8138 Bay VerticalA: (3/8) 97/32 x 3/4, Bev.
(1) E8112 Lower Right SideB: (Clapboard) 9 x 141/2
(1) E8113 Upper Right SideB: (Clapboard) 9 x 141/2, Cutout
Gable Top Floor
(1) E8108 Gable FrontB: (Clapboard) 1819/32 x 141/2, Grooved, Cutouts
Access Bay Middle Floor
Left Side
Gable Left Side
Gable Front
Gable Right Side
Access Bay Spacer
Upper Right Side
Upper Right Front
Lower Right Side
Lower Right Front
Access Bay Side
Electrification slot
Divider (Blinds)
Access Bay Roof
Left Edge
Access Bay Front:
Access Bay Base Floor
Middle Floor
Parts List page 5
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Box “A”
(1) E8139 Front StepA: (5/8 mdf) 5 x 2
(1) E8140 Front StepA: (5/8 mdf) 5 x 1
Front Roof
AccessBay Hardware Bag4:
(2) E8168 1” Hinge
(8) E8169 3/8 #2 Screws
(1) E8124 Access Bay Base Floor1: (1/4 mdf) 1 x 61/4 (1) E8136 Access Bay Ceiling4: (3/8 mdf) 7 x 11/4, Bev.
(2) E8134 Bay Side Foundation3: (3/8 mdf) 31/4 x 13/4, Bev.
(1) E8135 Bay Front Foundation3: (3/8 mdf) 45/8 x 13/4, Bev.
(4) E8116 Bay SideA: (Clapboard) 23/32 x 13/4
Bay Side
(2) E8117 Bay FrontA: (Clapboard) 23/32 x 31/2
(1) E8121 Bay Base Floor : ( /4 mdf) 2 /32 Wide x 7 /4, Mitered
(1) E8137 Bay Top3: (3/4 mdf) 315/16 Wide x 1013/16 , Molded
Bay Front
(1) E8143 Chimney BlockA: (11/2 mdf) 53/8 x 21/2
(1) E8144 Chimney Cap : (1/4 mdf) 21/2 x 11/2
(1) E8145 Chimney CapA: (5/8 mdf) 23/4 x 13/4
(1) E3626 Flower Box9: (1/2) 3/4 x 31/2, Mitered
(2) E9803 Stringer10: (1/8 x 13/16 mdf) 107/8, Mitered
(1) E8170 (575) ShinglesA
Chimney Block
Box “B”
(2) 6042 Assembled Door6
(1) E8170 (575) ShinglesA
(6) E8160 Window Frame 33/4 miter 45°/\45°
(12) E8156 Window Frame 23/4 miter 45°/\45°
(4) E8164 Window Frame 115/16 miter 45°/\45°
(20)E3633 Shutter Panel (1/16 x 3/4) 17/8
(2) E8159
(2) E8161
(2) E8158
(2) E8165
Window Frame: 51/4 miter 45°/\45°
Middle Frame 47/16
Trim (1/16 x 3/8 pine) 49/16
Spacer 115/16”
Middle Frame
Spacer 13/16
Window Frame
Rear Roof
False Eave
(6) E8157 Standard Pane (Printed Plexi) 45/8 x 21/8
(2) E8162 Short Pane (Printed Plexi) 31/32 x 21/8
(4) E8163 Narrow Pane (Printed Plexi): 15/16 x 45/8
(4) E8166 Short Window Shutter Core (1 x 1/8) 31/8
(10)E3632 Std Shutter Core (1 x 1/8) 45/8
(6) J0642
(4) J0643
(2) J0640
(4) J0641
Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 227/32
Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 511/32
Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 323/32
Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 2 Interior Door Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 311/32
Interior Door Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 711/16
Access Bay Ceiling
Bay Base Floor
(148)E36221/8 Dowels9 : 13/4
(4) E3960 3/8 Beads9
(4) E8150 Balcony Post9: (1/2 Flutepost) 23/8
(4) E8167 Short Window Shutter Panel5 (1/16 x 3/4) 25/8
1/2 Flutepost
bag: 9
(4) E3619 Porch Post: (1/2 Flutepost) 9
(4) E8151 Porch Rails: 43/4
(2) E8152 Porch Rails: 63/16
(8) E8153 Porch Rails: 95/32
(4) E8154 Porch Rails: 115/8
Trim Box 7 & 9
(7) E8146 Trim: (1 x 1/8) Over 231/2
(7) E3689 Trim: (3/4 x 3/32) Over 231/2
(1) E8147 Trim: (1/2 x 1/8) Over 231/2
(8) E3966 Trim: (1/2 x 3/32) Over 231/2
(9) E8148 Trim: (3/8 x 3/32) Over 231/2
(11) E8149 Trim: (3/16 x 3/32) Over 231/2
Cross section of Trim
Paint (B) / Housebody (1) page 6
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
A: Getting Started: Do these things before the house assembly
Square the corners of the window, door, and stair holes with a utility knife - each
cutout has a rounded corner left over from the tool that made it. Make two cuts in
each corner from the outside (one from each direction), then cut from each direction on the inside to cut away the rounding in the corner so the window, door, or
stairs will fit.
A Double-Cut Coarse file is
easier for many people to use
when squaring the corners.
Make several strokes from each
direction in each corner and test
the Window or Door to see how
it fits.
Stain the Shingles: Our pro uses Real Good Toys’ Shingle Dye
(available through your Real Good Toys miniature dealer) when dying
the shingles for this house. Batch dye or stain the shingles several
days ahead of time so they will be dry when the time comes to use them
(instructions are with the shingle dye).
Assemble the Front Steps (5/8 mdf) 5 x 2 and 5 x 1:
Glue together the Front Steps lined up on the back edge and
both ends
Assemble the Chimney: Glue together the
Caps, centered. Turn the Caps up-side-down; glue
the Chimney Block to the Caps, centered.
Assemble the Bay Wall sets; each set is
2) Bay Verticals and 2) Bay Walls (13/4 or 31/2” long)
See page 12
view from the top
Like this!
Bay Wall
Make two Bay Side wall sets
This is the Outside
This is the Outside
Bay Vertical: (3/8) 97/32 x 3/4, Bev.
Clapboard Profile
Make one Bay Front wall set
This is the Outside
Bay Wall
Clapboard Profile
Clapboard Profile
Paint (B) / Housebody (1) page 7
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Can I do it differently? Yes you can - it’s your house!
The information on these pages is offered as “best practices” advice, and it is what we do when we build this house.
But if you are customizing or have something else in mind, test-ahead to make sure your planning includes everything!
For many photos of the build go to and click on “JM1065”
Illustration #1
Front/Back Overlap
the Sides
c4 A.
Glue and tape together the Foundation perimeter. The Front and Back overlap the Sides
(Illustration #1).
B. Install the Middle Foundations spaced
evenly (about ±11”) from each other (Illustration #2).
Illustration #2
Install the Middle Foundations
In step 5, you are marking the Porch floor and ceiling for
painting using the Top Floor as a template. But, the left
edge of the Top Floor doesn’t line up with the left edge of the
Middle Floor or Base Floor (the Top Floor overlaps the walls,
while the lower floors fit into grooves), so the stair hole will be
used as a side-to-side reference instead of the left edge.
A. Identify the top and front edges of the Top
Floor ((3/8) 28 x 141/2,) - the Gable Top Floor ((3/8) 141/2 x
53/4) shows the spacing from the left edge to the stair
hole (141/2”), and the stair hole is closer to the front
edge. Glue and tape the Gable Top Floor to the front
edge of the Top Floor, lined up on the left
B. Identify the left edge of the Mid Floor - the stair
hole is spaced 141/4” from the left edge, and 163/4”
from the right edge (looking from the front). Set the
Mid Floor on the Base Floor, lined up on the edges.
Very lightly trace the left and right edges of the stair
hole onto the Base Floor. Remove the Middle Floor.
C. Set the Top Floor/Gable Floor on the Mid Floor
lined up at the back edge and lined up side-to-side at
the stair holes (the left edge of the Top Floor will overhang 1/4” on the left edge). Trace the Top Floor/Gable
Floor perimeter onto the Mid Floor. This tracing is the
outside edge of the right walls - outside the tracing is
the Porch Floor. Trace the Top Floor/Gable Floor onto
the bottom surface of the Mid Floor. This tracing is the
Porch Ceiling (make sure the tracings line up with each
D. Set the Top Floor/Gable Floor on the Base Floor
lined up at the back edge and lined up side-to-side with
the stair hole tracing (the left edge of the Top Floor
will overhang 1/4”). Trace the Top Floor/Gable Floor
perimeter onto the Base Floor.
Top Floor
Front-left edge
Gable Top Floor
This edge...
is traced here
Left edge
Porch Floor is outside the tracing
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Housebody (1) page 8
Painting: has painting and sanding videos
Paint (first-coat) everything. Don’t try to sand , fill, primp, or do much of anything to the wood before the first coat.
The first coat fills and reinforces the wood so sanding clips off the fibers rather than pushing them around. The firstcoat is all about what penetrates and fills the wood. There is no expectation that more than a hint of paint will be on the
surface. Don’t ‘double paint’ or try to give it an extra thick first coat as you watch the paint soak in... that is expected and
The first benefit of painting before assembly (one-coat) is that it is the easiest time to do a really thorough job of sanding after painting. The difference between a heirloom-grade finish on a dollhouse and a “I-was-in-a-hurry” finish is most
often the quality of the sanding, and it’s hard to sand into the little hidden corners of an assembled dollhouse, but it’s easy
to sand the flat panels layed out on a workbench.
So sand everything now - sand until the paint is smooth and transparent with no scratchiness to it, and with lots of wood
showing through the paint. For the clapboard walls, sand “one clapboard course at-a-time”: fold the sandpaper and hold
it on your finger-tips, then sand back-and-forth across one clapboard’s suface 2 or 3 times, then move up to the next clapboard. “One at a time” is what makes it smooth and “Heirloom-Great”.
The second coat goes on smooth and creamy, and except for touchup, it may be enough. Second coat the walls and porch
sections, leaving any edge or surface that will be glued un-painted. Wait to second coat the railings and windows.
Sanding one course at a time
If you are wiring this house, I recommend the #7999 wiring set, which uses a Jack and Plug in the foundation to connect the
house to the Power Supply. If so, cut an Electrification Slot in the edge of the Base Floor, using the Middle Floor as a guide.
See for a tutorial.
c1. Glue, tape, and weight the foundation set to the housebody’s Base Floor;
flush at the back and along the left edge.
The floor overhangs ±1/4” at the front and
right edges (Illustration #3). You may have
to flex the Foundation into position... this is
the step that straightens the Foundation.
Make the Foundation line up in Back
Make the Foundation line up
on the left edge
Lined up on the Left
(looking from the front)
Assemble the Housebody
Lined up in Back
Caution: Look at the Foundation and Base Floor
several times before leaving it to dry... the overhang
is on the right and in front.
The Base Floor overhangs
±1/4” at the Front and Right
edges (view from the Front)
“Right” and “Left” are from
the front of the dollhouse
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Housebody (1) page 9
2. Glue and tape the Gable Front to the Gable
Left Side panel (the Front overlaps the Side), with the
grooves perfectly lined up (use a divider to make sure
the grooves line up) see Illustration #5. Let the glue
Illustration #5
Gable Front Overlaps
the Gable Left Side
3. Glue and tape the Gable Front and
Gable Left Side assembly to the Base Floor,
straight and tight (Illustration #6). The Base
Floor sets into the Base Floor’s groove in the
Use lots of tape to make the walls hold tight
to the Floor in the grooves.
The Grooves are
Lined up
Illustration #6
Glue and tape the
Gable Front & Gable
Left Side to the Base
Base Floor
Step 4
Detail of overlaps
Gable Front
Right Front
fits here
Right Side
Gable Right
Left Side
Illustration #8
Glue and Tape the 1st
Floor Walls in Place
Stair hole or tracing
lines up with this edge
of the Gable Side
4. Glue and tape the first floor walls in
place (the Gable Right Side, Right Front, and
Right Side walls) following the perimeter
tracing (Illustration #8).
Lined up and taped at the back edge
Housebody (1) page 10
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Note: clean paint out of the grooves!
5. Test the Middle Floor in the grooves in the
Gable Front and Gable Left Side. Sand the top and bottom at the edges if necessary for a good fit.
Glue and tape the Middle Floor to the Walls, fully into
the grooves of the Gable Front/Left Side, with the walls
lined up with the ceiling tracing and flush at the back
edge (Illustration #9).
6. Glue and tape the Second Floor walls in place
Gable Front:
fits in the groove
Illustration #9
Glue and Tape the
Middle Floor to the
Walls - Tight in the
Lines up in back
following the tracing. Make sure the right side walls line
up at the back edge, and look lined up with each other
when viewed from the front.
Use a Divider here to support
and line up the corner
7. Glue and tape the Top Floor/Gable Floor to the
walls, lined up with all of the walls on the outside (Illus.
11). If you are going to wire your dollhouse, trace and
carve the bottom of the Electrification slot to make it
exposed inside the Left Side Wall (don’t make it deeper
at the top, just at the bottom) before gluing on the floor
Carve for tapewire access to Electrification slot
Use a Divider here to straighten
and line up the Right Side
Attic Endwall
will go here
Top Floor
Left Side Wall
8. Glue and tape the Access Bay Spacer to the
Gable Left Side and to the Top Floor (Illus #11).
Note: The AccessBay Spacer is smooth - it is hidden by
other parts.
Lines up in back
9. Glue and tape the AccessBay Mid Floor and AccessBay Base Floor the the Middle Floor and Base Floor
(Illus. 11, see also step 1, page 10)
Illus. 10
10. Glue and tape the Housebody’s Left Side to
the Floors and Spacer, tight in the grooves and lined up
at the back edge.
Lined up
Top Floor
Lined up
AccessBay Spacer
(3/8 mdf) 11/2 x 61/4
AccessBay Mid Floor
(3/8 mdf)
Left Side
Illus. 11
AccessBay Base Floor
(1/4 mdf) 1 x 61/4
• Look at the housebody from every angle.
Everything should be tight and lined up.
• Make sure the housebody is on a flat
surface as the glue dries.
• Prop dividers between the floors to keep
them straight.
• Add weight and plenty of tape to keep
everything tight and straight as the glue
Attic and Roofs (2) page 11
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
II. Build the Attic and Roof ...
Plan ahead:
Pre-paint (or mark, and paint as you go) any parts that
will be a different color from the ones they touch.
It is easiest to do some of the wiring and interior finishing in the attic before attaching the Rear Roof
Illustration #1
Glue and Tape the Gable
Triangle and Attic Endwall
Triangles to the Top Floor
There are interior finishing decisions that should be made
now. For suggestions, see the “Customizing a Victoria’s
Farmhouse” Blog on the Real Good Toys website.
You can find a link here:
Attic Partition for
temporary support
Attic Endwall
Gable Triangle
Glue and tape the Gable Triangle and Attic Endwall Triangles to the Top Floor. Tape a Divider or Attic
Partition to the Triangles to hold them straight as the
glue dries (Ill. #1).
Illustration #2
Shingle Guidelines
On the outside of the Roof Panels
draw guidelines for locating Shingles. The first guideline should be drawn one Shingle length from the bottom
edge. Draw the rest of the guidelines spaced 1” apart
(Illustration #2 and the Guideline Measure at right).
Now is an easy time to pre-cut attic wallpaper
Without glue, Test the Roof panels on
the house. Make sure the Front Roof touches
the Third Floor’s edge all across the Front (particularly on both sides of the gable ... trim the
cutout’s inside corners for a good fit: Illustration #3).
One Shingle length
*Glue and tape the Front and Rear Roofs
together. The Rear Roof is beveled where the
two roofs meet. Use many pieces of tape across
the top, and tape around each end.
Before the glue dries, glue the roofs to the
Attic Endwalls, centered side-to-side, and with
the roof overhanging evenly from top to bottom. Use all the tape you need to hold the roof
tight as the glue dries.
Illustration #3
Front Roof
the Rear Roof
*Note: I do not attach
the Rear Roof permanently until interior
finishing is done
Glue and tape the Eaves in place on the remaining exposed top edge of the Attic Endwalls, flush
at the outside edge of the Rear Roof. Look under the
Eaves to check that the spacing is even (Illus. #4).
c6. Tape together the Gable Roofs at the
peak. Test the Gable Roofs on the house (Make sure
the house Front Roof is touching the Third floor all
along the front edge). Look at the fit from the inside
and adjust if necessary. Mark the position of the
Gable Roofs on the house’s Front Roof
c7. Glue the Gable Roofs to each other, the Gable Triangle, and the house’s Front Roof. Add extra
glue to the “V” space between the Gable Roofs and
the Front Roof. Tape inside and out for a good fit.
Review: The shell of the house is all together and
the panels are straight and tight. Make sure the
house is flat on a flat surface as the glue dries.
Rear Roof
Illustration #4
Front Roof
Gable Triangle
Front Bay (3) page 12
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Exterior Painting:
Finish all of the Exterior painting now!
Illustration #1
Glue and Tape Together
the Bay Foundation
III. Assemble the Front Bay:
c1. Lay the house assembly on its Back. Glue
the Gable Foundation to the front of the house’s
foundation, lined up on the left. Let the glue dry.
Do Step 2 to Step 4 without stopping
c2. Glue and tape together the Bay
foundation (Illustration #1).
c3. Glue and tape the Bay Base Floor to
the front edge of the house’s Base Floor,
inside the bay cutout in the Gable Front (Illustration #2). Make sure the floor surface
across the joint is tight and smooth.
c4. Glue and tape the Bay Foundation set to the Bay Base Floor and to
the Gable Foundation. The foundation
extends past the Bay Base evenly on all
edges (this is a ledge to hold the bottom
of the Bay Walls).
overlook the
Gable Foundation
Illustration #2
Glue and Tape the Bay Base Floor to the
Front Edge of the House’s Base Floor
Bay Base Floor
House Foundation
Bay Foundation
Gable Foundation
c5. Tape the Bay wall sets together
at the corners (Illustration #4). Test
them on the house wrapped around
the Bay Floor, and adjust if necessary.
Glue the Bay walls together, to the
Bay Base Floor, and to the foundation
(Illustration #5).
c6. Glue and tape the Bay Top
to the housebody and Bay, spaced
evenly all around (pg 1 photo).
Clapboard surface is
on the outside
Bay Foundation
Illustration #3
Glue together the
Bay Wall Sets
Illustration #4
Bay Side wall set
Bay Front wall set
Gable Foundation
Illustration #5
Glue the Bay Walls Together, to the
Bay Base Floor, and to the Foundation
AccessBay (4) page 13
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
IV. Assemble the Access Bay:
The Access Bay allows the decorator access to the gable’s
front rooms.
c1. (this may already be done) Glue and tape the Access
Bay Floors to the housebody’s floors, tight and straight.
Dividers between the Access Bay floors help to keep the
floors lined up (Illustration #1).
c 2. Prepare for Attaching the Hinges:
Preview: In this section, you will temporarily install the
hinges for the Access Bay Front and Access Bay Left
Side. You are doing this now so you can work flat on the
table where you can hammer and drive screws more easily than inside an assembled house.
Make sure your #1 Phillips head screwdriver is in new
Check that the hinge can open a bit more than 3/4 of the
way around (this helps the Accessbay Front from being
“springy” when it closes).
c3. Check the clapboard profile on the Access Bay
Front and Access Bay Side to identify the base end of
each of those panels. Mark the base end so that even
when the clapboard surface is on the work table, you can
tell that the base end is at the bottom (Illustration #2).
c4. Lay the Access Bay Front face down with the clapboard surface on the work table.
c5. Tape two hinges on the Front Panel pin down and
hooked on the edge, one spaced 1” from the top, and the
other spaced 1” from the bottom (Illustration #3).
Illustration #1
Glue and tape the Access Bay
Floors to the Housebody’s Floors.
AccessBay Floor
Dividers help to keep
the Floors Lined Up
Illustration #2
Base End
Punch a starter hole in the center of each hole in
the hinge: Drive a nail part way through the wall and
pull it back out (don’t go all the way through).
Builders Tip: Stick the screws in a soft bar of soap to
make them turn in easier.
Start a screw in each hole (the tape will help the
screw stand up). Drive the screw 1/2 way in with a
hammer (hit it hard!), and the rest of the
way with a #1 Phillips screwdriver.
Repeat for the other screws.
Turn the tape to cover the hinge and screws.
Add another piece of tape... this will hold the AccessBay Front a bit away from the Side in the next step.
Illustration #3
Tape Hinges Pin Down
and Hooked on the edge
1” from the top edge
Clapboard faces down
1” from the bottom edge
Hinges Pin Down
and hooked on the edge
More great tips on installing screws:
go to “JM1065”, then click “Blog”
AccessBay (4) page 14
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
c 6. Set an Access Bay Side on the edge of your workbench with the clapboard up. Let the Access Bay Front
Hang off the front of the workbench. Fold the Hinges across
the clapboard surface of the Access Bay Side. Line up the
top edges of the Access Bay Front and Access Bay Side
(check the clapboard profile again) see Illustration #4.
Builder’s tip: let the Accessbay Front hang a little bit away
from the Accessbay Side so they won’t be quite touching in
the assembled house.
Punch a starter hole
and drive the screws as you did for the Front, then take the
screws back out of the Front (it’s easier building the house
without the Access Bay Front attached).
c 8. Glue and tape the Access Bay Sides to the housebody’s walls and Access Bay Floors (Illustration #5).
c 9. Glue and tape the Access Bay Ceiling to the house
and tops of the Access Bay Sides, lined up on the outside.
c 10. Glue and tape the Access Bay Roof to the AccessBay Ceiling, centered side-to-side (Illus. 6).
Illustration #4
Access Bay Left Side
Lined Up
Access Bay Front
c 7. Tape the Hinges to the Side.
AccessBay Side
c 11. Hinge the Access Bay Front in place using the holes
prepared in step #5.(Illustration #6).
AccessBay Front
Masking Tape gives
clearance here
Illustration #5
Glue and Tape the Access Bay
Sides to the Housebody’s Walls &
Access Bay Floors
AccessBay Front
AccessBay Side
Left Side
Illustration #6
Hinge the Access
Bay Front in Place
AccessBay Roof
AccessBay Ceiling
Windows (5) page 15
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
V. Window Assembly:
The parts used in this section should be
painted ahead of time. If they have not
been painted, do so now. has more
window assembly photos
Illustration #1
These hands are holding the frame parts down
against the table (not squeezing them together)
1. Standard Windows: Test assemble (no glue) the window set.
Practice holding the frame pieces facedown on the work surface and putting on the
rubber band. When you can do it every time
without pieces flying, then you are ready for
glue (Illustration #1).
A snip of tape in the corners helps
keep the parts still while you put put
on the rubber band, but take off the
tape while the glue dries.
2. Glue and rubber band together the
window frame with the Window Plexi in
place. Make sure the assembly is square as
the glue dries (Illustration #2).
Window Plexi
Illustration #2
Side Frame
Top Frame
Face Down
3. Short and the Narrow Windows:
assemble these windows as you did the
Standard Window.
Face Down:
Inside Showing
4. Standard Double Window:
Lay out and assemble the Double Window face down on the work surface
(Illustration #4).
5. Turn the Double Window face up
and push the Middle Frame down to the
work surface. Adjust the spacing of the
Middle Frame with the 115/16” Spacers (Illustration #5).
Side Frame
Bottom Frame
Illustration #3
Middle Frame
6. Glue the Trim to the Frames centered on the Middle Frame.
7. Narrow Double Window: Assemble the Narrow Double Window as you
did the Standard Double Window using the
13/16” Spacers to locate the Middle Frame.
8. Touch-up the sanding and paint, but
stay away from the Window Pane!
9. Check the fit of the windows in
the openings. Make sure the windows
can sit level with the house. Trim the
corners of the openings square if necessary for a good fit.
Illustration #4
115/16 Spacers
Windows (5) page 16
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
c 10.
Paint the Shutter parts. Without glue, adjust the spacing
of the Shutter Panels on the Shutter Cores. Remove the Shutter
Panel, put a scant line of glue on each edge of the back surface,
then replace the Shutter Panel. Too much glue will make the
panel curl.
Shutter Panel
VI. Install the windows and door
The parts used in this section should be painted ahead of time.
If they have not been painted, do so now.
c 1.
Touch-up the sanding and paint. Check the fit of the door
in the opening. Make sure the door can sit level with the house.
Trim the corners of the opening square if necessary for a good fit.
c 2. Glue the door in place only after the housebody is painted.
c 3. Install the Windows and Doors.
c 4. Glue the Shutters in place against the Windows, centered
up and down (Illustration #1).
Shutter Core
Do not install Interior Trim until interior finishing is done.
Shutter is Centered
Shutter Panel
Illustration #1
Trim (7) page 17
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Gable and Attic Endwall Trim:
Cut the Trim material with a fine toothed saw (such
as an x-acto™ razor saw or a hack saw). Line up the
trim material with the pattern and mark the cuts with a
pencil ... there is enough material to get all the parts, but
a wrong cut can leave you with two short pieces when
you need one long piece. Plan ahead (!), then make
your cut. Always cut the longest pieces first, and nest
parts that are mitered.
The Attic Partition has all the angles that are needed
for the trim. Hold the trim against the side of the Attic
Partition to help stabilize the saw when you start a cut,
but do not damage the Attic Partition.
Illustration #1
1” Trim:
Measurements given in this set of illustrations are
taken from a model that we built, but may be different
from what works on your house. Always test a part in
place on the house before the final cut-to-length
to make sure your work fits on your house.
c 1.
Cut 1” Trim 121/16”, mitered as shown in
Illustration #1 & #6. Without glue, test the Trim
along with a False Eave. When the Trim length is
right, the False Eave just reaches from roof to roof.
Paint and install the Trim and False Eaves.
Trim for the Attic Endwalls:
Cut 1” Trim 57/32” mitered like the
perimeter of Illustration #2.
For the Gable (Illus. #3 & #4), install
the window, and trim around it
with 1/8” x 1/2” Trim (one piece
of the 1/2” Trim supplied
is thicker than all the rest ...
just as thick as the lip on
the window frame).
Paint and install the
Horizontal Trim.
c 2.
Illustration #3
Illustration #2
Illustration #4
Trim (7) page 18
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
c 3. Shingle the False Eave (Illustration #5) one full shingle
course and one course of shingles cut 3/4” long. See the shingling instruction on page 17.
c 4. Cut, Paint, and install 3/4” Trim on the Eaves and 3/32”
x 1/2” Trim (the same thickness as the 3/4” Trim) for the horizontals Illus. #6. The bottom edge of the Eave Trim touches
the shingles on the False Eave (Illus. #7).
c 5. Cut, paint, and install the 3/16” Trim as shown.
c 6. Finish any touch-up painting that is needed.
Illustration #6
3/4” Trim:
1/2” Trim
Illustration #7
3/16” Trim:
3/16” Trim: 65/8”
Trim (7) page 19
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
c 7. Cut, paint, and install the Front
Illustration #8
Bay Facia (Illustration #8).
c 8. Cut, paint, and install the Wall
Trim as shown in Illustration #9.
A Trim Cutting photo gallery is at
Use this Bevel Guide
when Cutting the
Ends of the Bay Facia
Illustration #9
Shingle the Roof page 20
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
VIII. Finish the Exterior:
c 1. Attach the (painted) Chimney to the roof in
line with the Attic Endwall and slightly lower than
the peak.
There is a Shingling demo at
Shingle the Roof: Glue: Use a thick,
solvent-based panel adhesive available in caulking
gun tubes at building supply stores. Look for the
“Flammable” warning to know it is a Solvent Based
adhesive, and follow the manufacturer’s warnings.
If there are no warnings or if it says “water clean
up”, then it is an acrylic based adhesive and will curl
the shingles.
Illustration 1
Chimney Cap
(1/4”) 21/2” x 11/2”
Chimney Cap
(5/8”) 23/4” x 13/4”
Chimney Block
c 2.
Shingle Illustration #2
A. Glue a “starter row” or 3/8” long Shingles square
edge down along the bottom edge of the Roof, or
“Flash” the edge with a 1/2” strip of copper (#SC
from Real Good Toys is available through your
dealer) to prepare the bottom edge of the Roof for
the first row of shingles
B. Cut pairs of shingles that, when held in the valley, are straight up-and-down the roof on their outer
edges. Shingle the valleys
C. Apply a thin line of adhesive just below the lowest guideline all the way across one roof. Press the
top edge of a Shingle into the line of glue, squeezing out the excess Hold the first Shingle and press
another Shingle into the adhesive, tight to the first.
Hold the next Shingle and press in another... etc. all
the way across the roof, cutting the last Shingle to fit
Continue up the roof one row at a time. Start
the next row with a half Shingle so that the seam
between Shingles is staggered back and forth as you Valley Shingles
go up the roof. Line up the top edge of each row
(except the starters) with the guidelines.
Cut the top row of Shingles so that each row
will have the same reveal. Finish the top edge with
a “Boston Lap”: pairs of Shingles laid horizontally.
Start at the ends of the peak, and, with each pair
overlapping the previous pair, work to the middle.
Boston Lap Shown at the Peak
Shingle Guideline
Line of Adhesive
One Inch
Starter Course or
Copper Flashing
Starter Course
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Railings and Porch (9) page 21
IX. Porch Assembly:
Preview: In this section, you will assemble and install the Porch Posts and Railings.
A Railing Assembly demo is available at
Assemble the Rails
1. Paint (the first coat) and sand the Rails before assembly. Wipe any paint out of the grooves, and do
not paint the Rail ends at all.
Paint and sand the Dowels:
a. Dab paint onto a small-celled sponge, less paint is
better (a small-celled sponge looks like sponge rubber. Our local dollar store sells small-celled sponges
with a scrubby back - cut in half, they are just right).
Put several Dowels on the sponge; rub a second
sponge across the top, rolling the Dowels across the
Second-coat the paint after
the Railings are assembled
2. Assemble the Railings:
a. Match Rails into assembly pairs (the same length).
b. Set the first Rail of each assembly pair on the
drawing, lined up on each end. Put a dab of glue and
a Dowel in the Rail’s groove for each Dowel in the
drawing. Adjust the Dowels to match the drawing; be
sure all the Dowels are even, straight, and square. Let
the glue dry for a few minutes.
c. Lift the Dowels with a piece of stripwood; dab a
little glue onto each Dowel’s end. Hold the second
Rail of the assembly pair over the Dowel’s ends at an
angle. Push down and scoop the Dowels’ ends into the
b. Spread the painted Dowels on waxed paper. Move
them around every few minutes as the paint dries
c. Paint all of the Dowels; let the paint dry
d. Lightly rub the dowels around with sandpaper (a
small handful at a time) to sand off the raised grain.
Squeeze the Rails together so the Dowels are fully in
the grooves. Hold the Railing set on the drawing;
make the Rail ends exactly line up. Final adjust the
Dowels - - straight and square. Tape together Dividers
to form a square inside corner, and lay the Railings in
the corner as the glue dries
d. Repeat for the other Railings
3. Paint (second-coat) the Railings
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Railings and Porch (9) page 22
Illustration #3
4 sets 95/32
Note: Variations in printers and “Print Scaling”
in your printer dialogue box effect the size of these
graphics. If your rails don’t match up exactly,
center them on the diagram.
Illustration #2
1 set 63/16
Illustration #1
2 sets 43/4
Railings and Porch (9) page 23
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
4. Assemble the Flutepost and Beads (Illustration #5).
Wait to install the Railings until the Windows and Doors are in
place, and the Shingling is done.
Note: Variations in printers and “Print Scaling”
in your printer dialogue box can effect the size
of these graphics. If your rails don’t match up
exactly, center them on the diagram.
Illustration #4
Half Mark
Shown is Half of a 115/8” Rail
5. Cut Porch Facia sets the same
length as the railing sets. Each Facia set
uses the following:
• (1) 1” wide
• (1) 3/4” wide
• (1) 3/16” wide
Cut the pieces square on the ends and
even in length for each set Illustration #6.
We suggest pre-painting the sets in
contrasting colors.
Illustration #6
3/16” Wide
3/4” Wide
Detail view from
the rear of the
x 3/32”
Upper Right Side
1” Wide
43/4” Rail Set
Post & Bead
Illustration #5
Middle Floor
x 3/32”: 43/4”
x 3/32”: 43/4”
1”x 1/8”: 43/4”
Balcony Post
x 3/32”
9” Porch Post
Lower Right Side
Base Floor
Railings and Porch (9) page 24
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
6. Set up the Rails, Facia, and Posts as
shown in Illustration #8. Use a 1/8” Dowel to
elevate the Railing sets above the Porch Floor.
Set up all the parts without glue, then glue the
porch parts in place.
Illustration #8
7. Cut 1/2” and 3/8” Trim leftovers for Porch
Post Bases:
(4) 1/2” x 13/4”
(3) 3/8” x 13/4”
Use a 1/8” Dowel to
Elevate the Railing Sets
above the Porch Floor.
Glue Post Bases centered below the Porch
Posts (see photograph).
8. Flower Box: Glue the Flower Box
centered below the kitchen window
(see photograph).
9. Front Steps: Assemble and attach the
Front Steps following Illustration #9.
Flower Box
Interior Window and Door Trim (see the order
of interior finishing on page 25) - Assemble and
paint the interior window and door trim sets.
Glue them centered on the windows or door.
Attach Porch Post Bases
4) Standard windows, each uses:
(2) J0644 Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 227/32 angled/\
(2) J0645 Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 511/32 angled/\
2) Narrow windows, each uses:
(2) J0643 Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 2angled/\
(2) J0645 Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 511/32 angled/\
2) Short windows, each uses:
Illustration #9
(2) J0644 Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 227/32 angled/\
(2) J0642 Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 323/32 angled/\
Base Floor
1) Double Standard window uses:
(4) J0645 Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 511/32 angled/\
Front Step
5” x 1”
Front Step
5” x 2”
1) Double Narrow windows uses:
(2) J0642 Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 323/32 angled/\
(2) J0645 Interior Window Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 511/32 angled/\
2) doors, each uses:
(1) J0640 Interior Door Trim (2) J0641 Interior Door Trim (3/32 x 3/8) 311/32angled/\
(3/32 x 3/8) 711/16angled1
Interior (10) page 25
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-1065 Victoria’s Farmhouse
Finish the Inside...Plan Ahead!
Interior finishing involves so many choices!
Will this house be a play-house or a display for
miniatures? What accessories will be used and
where will they go? Wiring? Wallpaper? Tile
or carpeting? Every choice makes a difference
in the order of finishing. Real Good Toys has
provided materials for some basic interior work,
but you may choose to do it differently.
Make your choices
Get your materials
Test your layout
With the pieces in your hands, imagine the
steps to get to where you want to be.
Now you’re ready for your order of interior finishing.
Here’s the order that our assembly pro follows for
tackling most custom interior finishing:
Electrical wiring (using “tape” style wiring)
Interior Window and Door Trim
Baseboard and crown moldings
Photos of builder’s interiors are available at
9” x 21/2”
9” x 141/8”
1st Floor Layout
9” x 21/2”
9” x 141/8”
2nd Floor Layout
Top Bevel
Top Stair Block
Assemble the Stairs:
1. Glue the Bottom and Top Stair Blocks together. Without glue, test the Stair assembly in the stair hole. The stairs are
tight to the wall and the top tread is flush with the floor.
Wait to permanently install the stairs until flooring and
wallpapering are done.
Middle Bevels
Bottom Stair Block
Bottom Bevel
Glue the stair assembly in place. Let dry. Trim the
Stringer to extend just past the edge of the bottom stair tread.
Glue the Stringer to the side of the Stair assembly for support.
You have finished the Dollhouse Assembly
part of your project...
Here are some Builder’s Photos... just for fun!
Download PDF