RGS Regnans
Owner’s manual
REDGUM Audio Pty Ltd
Factory 3, 25 Clarice Rd
Box Hill South, VIC, 3128, Australia
Ph: +61 3 9897 1277
Fax: +61 3 9897 1399
ABN 45 093 132 515
Why REDGUM?..................................................................................1
Connecting your speakers to your amplifer.......................................2
Typical connection...................................................................................... 2
Bi-wire connection...................................................................................... 3
Where to put your speakers..............................................................4
Placing your speakers in the best position..................................................4
Using stands and spikes to improve the sound...........................................5
Caring for your speakers...................................................................9
Other equipment.............................................................................10
Amplifers................................................................................................. 10
Loudspeaker cables.................................................................................. 10
Achieving the best sound from your system.....................................11
Your listening room................................................................................... 11
Other helpful hints.................................................................................... 13
Warranty Registration.....................................................................20
The River Red Gum is Australia’s most widespread and recognised tree,
and it produces a wood that is truly unique. It yields the second
hardest timber in the world, and this strength saw its widespread use in
the railway lines that sprang up to connect the rapidly expanding
colonies of early 20th century Australia. Its resistance to termites also
made it the natural choice for building foundations, and to this day it
continues to support some of our most historic structures.
The river red gum can be found on most river banks in mainland
Australia, where its roots tap into water stored in the sands and its
leaves provide food for the indigenous wildlife.
It presence is
synonymous with the Australian outback, at once a symbol of life
sustaining water and the struggle against a harsh climate. When
conditions turn dry, the red gum will adapt by shedding huge branches
from its trunk in an efort to conserve moisture. As anyone familiar
with camping in the Australian bush will tell you… don’t ever pitch your
tent underneath a red gum tree!
A celebrated part of our culture, it has perhaps been made most
famous through the landscape paintings of Hans Heysen and Ronald
And while it was in wide use throughout Australia’s history, it was not
until the invention of the carbide saw that it was possible to cut the
wood accurately. And only then could the real beauty of this unique
hardwood be unveiled.
When polished it reveals a deep red lustre, highlighted by an
intertwining and tightly packed grain structure. Fine irregularities add
to this beauty, and it is highly sought after as a decorative wood for
these unique aesthetic properties. No two pieces of red gum will
match exactly, and this is as it should be. Like our products, each
piece is outstanding and unique.
Now that you’ve heard the story of the Australian river red gum, it’s
time to listen to your very own REDGUM. We’ve carefully selected and
lovingly crafted each piece before coupling it to some of the fnest
audio engineering that money can buy. The results? Stunning! Trust
us, you won’t believe your ears.
Connecting your speakers to your amplifer
To connect your speakers to your amplifer you will need speaker
cables of the correct length for your listening room. We recommend
using heavy gauge speaker wire for the best sound (for more
information on choosing cables see the section on ‘Loudspeaker
Your REDGUM speakers have two sets of input terminals at the rear of
the speaker. This means that you can connect your speakers to your
amplifer in one of two ways:
‘typical connection’ or ‘bi-wire
connection’. Bi-wiring your speakers requires two sets of speaker
cables, and a little more efort, but some audiophiles believe the
results to be worthwhile (typically a more ‘open’ sound).
Before making any connections please ensure that your amplifer is
turned of and disconnected from mains power to avoid the risk of
electrical shock and/or damage to your equipment. During connection it
is important to tighten all connections securely (fnger pressure only) and
ensure that there are no loose strands of wire. If loose wires touch one
another or another terminal this may result in poor sound or even
damage to your amplifer.
Typical connection
The terminals at the rear of your speakers are colour coded red (+) and
(-). Follow the procedure below to connect only the upper pair of input
terminals on each speaker to your amplifer.
Typical connection procedure
Connect the:
red (+) amplifer terminals to the respective red speaker (+)
terminals; and
black (-) amplifer terminals to the respective black (-) speaker
Make sure when doing this that you connect the left/right speakers to
the left /right channel outputs on the amplifer.
Ensure that all connections points are clean, and that all connections
are secure. Check that wiring terminations look neat and that no
loose strands of wires are touching any other terminals.
Your speakers are now ready for operation.
We recommend using heavy gauge speaker cable for the best quality
sound (the heavier, the better and with a 2mm minimum).
When using a typical connection, the upper and lower sets of terminals
must be connected to one another for the speakers to operate
properly. For this purpose, your speakers come supplied with gold
bridging pieces already in place making this connection.
Bi-wire connection
The terminals at the rear of your speakers are colour coded red (+) and
(-). Follow the procedure outlined below to bi-wire your speakers.
Please note that bi-wiring requires two sets of loudspeaker cables.
Bi-wire connection procedure
Remove the gold bridging pieces connecting the upper and lower
sets of input terminals on each speaker.
Connect the left speaker. For both upper and lower pairs of speaker
terminals, connect the:
red (+) terminals to the amplifer’s left red (+) terminal; and
black (-) terminals to the amplifer’s left black (-) terminal.
Connect the right speaker. For both upper and lower pairs of
speaker terminals, connect the:
red (+) terminals to the amplifer’s right red (+) terminal; and
black (-) terminals to the amplifer’s right black (-) terminal.
Ensure that all connections points are clean, and that all connections
are secure. Check that wiring terminations look neat and that no
loose strands of wires are touching any other terminals.
Your speakers are now ready for operation.
Where to put your speakers
Most people will place the speakers in the most convenient position,
based on the surrounding décor. While this is perfectly acceptable, you
can improve the sound quality by paying a little attention to the proper
placement and set-up of your speakers. The information below is
provided to assist you in this.
Placing your speakers in the best position
Deciding on the best placement for speakers is a very individual thing,
as each of us have our own listening preferences. Try moving your
speakers around while listening to some favourite tracks until you fnd
the result which suits you best.
Distance from the surrounding walls
Placing your speakers right in the corners of the room can result in
bass which sounds 'boomy'' and unclear. Try to keep your speakers at
least 20cm (8 inches) from both the rear and side walls. Bigger
distances will usually bring about an additional improvement in the
Distance between the speakers themselves
The correct distance between the speakers will depend on the size of
your listening room, and your personal taste. Start by experimenting
with the speakers from two to four metres (six to twelve feet) apart.
Distance between the speakers and the listening position
The best stereo imaging will be achieved when the listening position
forms the point of a triangle, where the other two points are made by
the speakers themselves. Start with your listening position as the point
of an equilateral triangle, and experiment by moving forwards and
The angle (“toe-in”) of the speakers
At REDGUM Audio we recommend a 30 degree angle between the
speakers. This provides a strong central image, and suitable 'timing' to
provide good rear projection for home theatre. You should experiment,
however, to fnd the sound that suits you best as room acoustics can
vary widely (See section ‘Getting the most from your listening space’).
Using stands and spikes to improve the sound
My speakers are already low in resonance. Do quality speakers
really need such extras?
When buying quality hi-f speakers, the customer rightly assumes the
most important basics of speaker design have been attended to.
However, as you set up the speakers it is still possible to enhance their
performance through the use of stands and spikes. (True, there are
other ways, but let us focus in some detail on a tried and trusted,
simple, cost-efective method that anyone can use.)
The frst assumption to make of quality speakers is that the cabinet is
constructed of a uniform, rigid material, commonly MDF (Medium
Density Fibreboard). A manufacturer’s ability to create near identical
enclosures from MDF is (part of) your guarantee that your speakers are
sonically a “matched pair”. Unfortunately, speakers made of solid red
gum (or any other) wood could never be a visually, or sonically
matched pair, so a pair of REDGUM speakers is only able to present you
with the real wood as a beautiful veneer.
The rigidity provided by the materials and construction method will
result in a speaker cabinet that is low in resonance. Both REDGUM
Bookshelf and Floorstanding speakers are constructed of 19mm (¾
inch) MDF, and have internal cross-bracing to add to the rigidity of the
enclosure. This rigidity is important as you wish to hear only the music
recorded through your speakers, and not the intrusive additional
“music” (or resonance) created by the speaker cabinet’s own response
to the stored energy within its walls.
To test whether your speaker cabinet is low in resonance:- tap the
outside of the speaker with your knuckles. It should produce a dull
”thud” sound. True, there is a sound, but it does not continue to “ring”
– the sound begins, but it seems to be ”swallowed up” as the vibration
is unable to continue for the usual length of time expected with solid
wood. It sounds “dead”.
How “low” is low in resonance? As the ideal construction materials for a
virtually resonance-free speaker would be lead, or concrete, and often
involve sand-flled walls, commercial and domestic (!) considerations
make the cost, and exertion, of moving such speakers prohibitive.
When cheaper, more manageable solutions exist with audibly
measurable improvements, it is worth considering the use of rigid
speaker stands on spikes, and even lead shot (see Section on ‘The
addition of lead shot’ below).
Why anchor the movement caused by the cone?
For a driver to produce a sound, theoretically only the cone need move
forward to create the air pressure wave that we hear. However, as we
all learnt at school, Newton’s Third Law of Physics states: to every
Action, there is an equal and opposite Re-action. Depending on
whether the speaker cabinet is anchored or unanchored, the
interaction of the speaker cabinet with the cone movement is like the
diference between diving of the concrete edge of a swimming pool
and diving of a small rowboat on the water.
If the swimmer is compared to the speaker cone, then diving from the
concrete edge is like having a speaker coupled to/on a stand on spikes,
whereas diving from the rowboat is when the speaker cabinet is not
anchored by spikes or is not on a stand. Diving from a rowboat, the
energy of your forward/upward movement is partly lost because as you
push down against the boat, it moves away in the direction your legs
push it (i.e. downwards/backwards). This results is much less
forward/upward energy, and is far less controlled than when pushing
against the solid pool edge.
This image of the lost energy of motion parallels the losses in the
quality of sound when the speaker assembly (cabinet, driver frame,
stand, spikes) moves independently of the cone. When the cone moves
forward, how much of the motion/energy is translated into an accurate
sound wave will depend on how much cumulative movement there is in
the total ‘assembly’. For a speaker on a stand without spikes, the
cabinet responds, in efect, like a punching bag on a pole. The
speaker’s weight is uppermost; the movement is a forward/backward
rocking motion. Even if the speaker is placed directly on the foor
rather than a stand, the backwards rocking efect will occur/be the
same, though the lack of height provided by the stand will create less
of a levering action/efect.
The addition of a stand provides a rigid platform to hold the speakers
securely. It also increases the overall mass (adding lead shot can
further enhance this). The combination of a stand with spikes will have
the greatest efect on minimizing speaker movement. Whether
anchored directly by spikes or placed on a stand with spikes, the
rocking of the speaker cabinet will be lessened (though it cannot be
removed altogether). All the same, these measures create an
improvement in the sound quality that is most defnitely audible.
Testing for the improvement in the sound
A convincing display of the improvement in performance is easy to set
up. Check the sound of your system as you progressively anchor the
speakers by the addition of stands, and then spikes. As a way of
measuring the change in the sound quality, play a recording where
there is an exposed section of drums, especially with loud, sharp rim
shots. Repeat the track after each alteration to/addition of stand and
spikes. As the rigidity of the structure supporting the speaker
increases, the isolation of the speaker cones from unwanted vibrations
and resonances increases. This can be heard as a ”tighter”, faster bass
with better image and clarity. Transients are …… truly transient!
The practicalities of using stands and spikes
Speakers the size of the REDGUM Audio RGSB’s are commonly
described as ‘Bookshelf’ speakers. While it is true that small speakers
may be placed on or even in a bookshelf, they will perform better when
placed on a rigid set of stands.
When choosing stands for either Bookshelf and Floorstanding speakers,
look for ones that will support the speakers at the ideal listening height
(tweeter at about ear level when seated). Stands should also be
constructed of a rigid material, such as steel, and are most efective
when they come with spikes to ensure a solid connection with the foor.
The possibility of being able to increase the weight of the stand by
flling its interior is always a plus/of beneft. (See section on ‘The
addition of lead shot’ below.)
To ensure a good connection between the base of the speaker and the
stands (Speaker Coupling), place a small pea-sized piece of blutack/poster tack on each corner of the stands. If you do use blutack/poster tack, please note the following caution.
Blu-Tack/Poster Tack is strong enough to tear veneer of a speaker box!
So do not try to lift the speaker directly of the stand. While holding both
the speaker and its stand frmly together, place the speaker face down
on the foor, and wait for gravity to work. The “Blue-Tack/Poster Tack”
will slowly release its grip between the veneer and the stand, and the
stand will gently slide to the foor. Less than one minute’s patience keeps
the speaker veneer in perfect condition.
If the additional height given by a stand is of no advantage, spikes may
be also used directly with our foorstanding RGS38i model. The
benefts here are the same as for stands with spikes – spikes allow the
speakers to be rigidly coupled directly to the foor, increasing the
isolation of the speaker cones from unwanted vibrations (both from
other equipment and up through the foor) and speaker resonances.
Adjust the height of your spikes so that all of them are making good
contact with the foor, and the speakers’ sides are vertical. This can be
checked by applying some strong sideways pressure to make sure that
the speakers do not rock in any direction. This lack of movement
should also be checked for when speakers are mounted on stands with
Using spikes to connect your speakers to the foor may sound a little
drastic, but it really is one of the simplest and most efective
improvements you can make to your sound system. For those with
polished foorboards or other similar surfaces, place a large coin under
each spike to minimize any marks on the foor. The coins can be safely
secured to the foor by using pea-sized pieces of blu tack/poster tack.
The addition of lead shot
As has been mentioned in passing in the section above on Stands and
Spikes, using lead shot (or sand) is one way of adding to the mass of a
speaker stand and thus increasing its resistance to the movement set
up by the cone’s forward excursion. Any way of increasing the inertia of
the speaker-stand combination will be efective at reducing the rocking
motion which creates the unwanted resonances that lessen
performance. Thus, it follows that being able to add lead shot directly
to the speaker cavity is also desirable/efective.
The RGS38i Floorstanding model has an isolated chamber in the base
of the cabinet for this purpose. A metal “plug” can be unscrewed on
the rear panel of the cabinet and through this lead shot (or clean dry
sand) can be added. As lead shot is deceptively heavy, we recommend
deciding on the fnal position of the speakers before flling the cavity.
Lie the speakers face down from that position so that the efort to lift
the “flled” speaker will be required only for a brief moment.
Caring for your speakers
Your speaker cabinets may be cleaned as required with a soft cloth
dampened with water. No further care is required as the veneer of real
red gum wood has been fully sealed with a synthetic coating of
You should avoid wiping either the speaker cones or the tweeters
themselves. However, if you prefer to listen to your speakers with the
grilles removed, dust build-up can become a problem. In this case, we
recommend the use of a small, soft brush (e.g. an unused paintbrush)
to lightly fick the dust of.
Finally, if you want to use the speakers outdoors for a party, make sure
they are well protected from moisture at all times! To ensure that there
is no danger of the speakers being pulled of their stands, also make
sure that the connecting cables are laid out carefully on the ground. It
is a good idea to tape the cables to the foor to ensure that no-one trips
over them.
Damage control!
Should the real Red Gum surface sufer a scratch or chip, this can best
be disguised by the application of a little furniture oil or liquid polish to
the afected area. Soak the area with oil/polish for a minute or two and
then mop of the excess with a tissue or similar. Finally buf the area
with a soft cloth.
This process may need to be repeated after a few days, but after
several treatments the area should stabilise at close to the original
Other equipment
Model RGSB (Bookshelf) – are designed for use with quality amplifers
that have a power rating of 30 - 150 watts RMS (for example, the
REDGUM Audio RGi35, RGi60, or RGi120).
Model RGS38i (Floorstanding) – are designed for use with quality
amplifers that have a power rating of 50 - 200 watts RMS (for example,
the REDGUM Audio RGi120 or RGM175).
REDGUM Regnans loudspeakers are efcient, so they do not require a
huge amplifer, but they also have very high power handling and will
cope with most high power amplifers up to 500wrms of CLEAN power.
On this basis, the suggested REDGUM Amplifers are the RGi60 through
to the RGM300ENR.
Loudspeaker cables
Cable quality and construction do make a diference to sound quality,
and we recommend the use of thick copper cables. When choosing
cables, look at a cross-section of the bare cable to determine its actual
thickness, unmagnifed by the surrounding plastic. Choose a cable that
ofers a large perimeter of copper, as a large surface area will assist
transmission of the signal. REDGUM ‘Expressive Line’ High DampingFactor Loudspeaker Cable is an ideal match.
To minimise the efects of RF interference, keep your speaker cables
uncoiled and away from mains power cables. Wherever possible, keep
the lengths of cable the same for the left and right channels.
Important safety note – Always remember that all speaker cables carry
electrical current. Never touch bare wires! Do not leave any wires with
bare ends exposed where they can come into contact with other cabling,
terminals, pets or humans. Any bare sections of wire should be secured
by covering with electrical insulation tape.
Achieving the best sound from your system
This section is provided to ofer some general assistance to those
seeking to get the very best performance from their system. You will
be surprised by just how much improvement can be had be
experimenting with a few simple factors. The following advice is based
on our own years of trial and error, and we hope that checking through
it makes a positive diference to the sound of your system.
Your listening room
Strange as this may sound, the room itself will have a profound afect
on how your audio system responds. In fact, many experts consider
the room to be as important to the sound as any other component in
your system!
Did you ever notice how it’s difcult to talk in some restaurants
because you can’t hear each other over all the other conversations
going on around you?
Yet another similarly sized restaurant is
perfectly suited to intimate romantic murmuring. The diference lies in
the surfaces around you. Here is a simple test – go into your bathroom
and clap your hands; then clap them again in a room with carpet,
curtains and other soft furnishings. Notice the diference? In a room
with many hard refective surfaces sound waves bounce around a lot
before dying out. Not even the most expensive stereo in the world is
capable of sounding good in such a challenging acoustic environment.
When it comes to your listening room the same principles apply.
Wooden foorboards, polished concrete and slate are all highly
refective surfaces. In a room without curtains or other wall furnishings
the sound may be overly ‘bright’ or aggressive.
Similarly, it is possible for a room to be too ‘damped’ or absorptive.
Where there are no refective surfaces at all the sound may seem
‘dead’ or lacking in energy.
Luckily for us, most household rooms are a combination of the two.
And, generally speaking, a combination of the two will bring about the
best results.
Too many hard surfaces?
If your room is sounding too ‘bright’, try placing a large rug on the foor
between your listening position and the speakers. Or hang some soft
furnishings from the walls.
Too many soft surfaces?
If your room is sounding too damped, try removing some of the soft
furnishings from the walls or rugs from the foor.
Managing the bass
Sometimes, low frequency waves can also bounce around and cause
problems in a listening environment. This may be the result of the
shape of the room, or the materials it is constructed from. Large
pieces of furniture in a room can often help to break up these ‘standing
While few of us will feel the need to redesign a room to improve its
sonic properties, sometimes a small change, like placing a rug on the
foor, can make a big improvement to the sound.
Other helpful hints
Corrosion and sound system terminals
Atmospheric corrosion can build up on speaker cable and interconnect
terminals under normal conditions over time. Should this occur, simply
removing and re-inserting wires and cables will clean and improve the
contact and hence the quality of signal transmission.
remember to turn of all equipment before connecting or disconnecting
any wires or cables.
Amplifers (other than REDGUM) as a source of speaker damage
If the amplifer in your system is not, repeat, not a REDGUM, your
speakers may sufer damage from “switch on” surges, or other noises
that may cause over-excursion of the cones. These situations are more
likely to occur if you have separate, unmatched Pre- and Power
amplifer units.
The safe order for turning such a system on and of is: Power amp On
last, Power amp Of frst.
Put another way - when turning your amplifer on, Pre amp comes frst
and then Power amp. When turning Of, simply reverse the order.
Following this procedure will help protect your speakers.
Placement of components in your sound system
Lots of fresh air is important to the health of your electronics. The
louder you play your music, the more important it is to ensure that
components receive adequate ventilation. Amplifers, in particular, will
generate a lot of heat. Placing the amplifer at the top of the stack, and
ensuring adequate ventilation, will help to ensure that heat can be
dissipated as it should.
Amplifer volume and use of tone controls
Any amplifer can damage any speaker regardless of the power rating
of the amplifer or power handling capacity of the loudspeaker. When
an amplifer is played too loudly, sudden peaks (transients) in a musical
passage can cause the amplifer to attempt to deliver more power than
it can safely deliver. The result is amplifer ‘clipping’, which is a
dangerous form of distortion. Some amplifers may also produce low
frequency pulses that can damage both woofers and crossover
networks. There is only one ‘fail-safe’ method - due care! Learn the
maximum safe volume position of your amplifer (visually around 12
o’clock on the dial for REDGUM amplifers – other brands will vary) and
learn to live within this limit.
You should also bear in mind that tone controls are not quality controls,
and cannot adequately compensate for the poor sound of a system or a
recording. If your amplifer has ‘Bass’ and ‘Treble’ controls, try to avoid
setting these at high levels as this can place considerable strain on
your amplifer.
Whenever changing input sources, cueing a record or cleaning a stylus,
make sure you turn down the volume.
The following troubleshooting guide is designed to assist you in
identifying and rectifying any problems you may experience with your
Likely cause
Recommended action
Stereo image is vague/
bass response is lacking
Speakers out of phase
Check that the correct + to + and –
to – connections have been made
between the amplifer and your
speakers (see ‘How to connect your
speakers to your amplifer’ above)
There is bass but no treble,
or vice versa
Typical connection – upper and
lower terminals at rear of speaker
not connected by bridging pieces
Check the bridging pieces are in
place (see ‘Typical connection’
Bi-wire connection – upper or lower
terminals not connected to amplifer
Check that all required cable
connections are in place (see ‘Biwire connection’ above)
Too much bass/undefned
Speakers too close to rear wall
Re-position speakers (see ‘Where to
put your speakers’ above)
Buzzing or crackling sound
when connecting wires
Equipment is turned on
Turn of all equipment before
making any cable connections
Distortion at low volumes
Speaker wires are touching each
other, or another terminal, and
shorting the signal
Ensure that all cable connections are
clean with no loose wires
Amplifer is damaged
Check/repair amplifer
Amplifer is overloaded
Turn down the volume to avoid
damage to your speakers and
Distortion at high volumes
If the problem cannot be resolved by any of these recommended
actions you should make certain that the problem lies with the
speakers, as malfunction within other components may also be the
cause of the symptoms. You can do this by borrowing a CD player and
amplifer that you are certain are working, and replace your normal
components with these to test the speakers in isolation. If the problem
persists, please see your local REDGUM Audio dealer.
Product Type: Bookshelf Speakers, magnetically shielded
Cabinet Finish: real Red Gum wood veneer over MDF core
Bass Loading: front ported Bass refex
Driver Complement: 2-way, two driver system 1x25mm soft dome
tweeter plus 1x165mm polypropylene woofer/midrange
Frequency Range: 40hz-19khz
Sensitivity: 92db/W/m
Impedance: (nominal): 8 ohms
Crossover Point: 3kHz woofer to tweeter
Suggested Amplifer: REDGUM RGi35, RGi60, or RGi120 (30 - 150
watts RMS)
Dimensions: 210 (W) x 273 (D) x 425(H) mm
Features: Bi Wiring as standard
Connections: 5 way gold binding post
Crossover: Polypropylene capacitors, air-cored inductors, wire wound
Shipping weight: 18.3 kg (22.3 kg cubic) per pair
Product Type: Floorstanding Speakers
Cabinet Finish: real Red Gum wood veneer over MDF core
Bass Loading: Bass refex, twin rear ported
Driver Complement: 2-way, three driver system, 25mm soft dome
tweeter, 2 x 165mm polypropylene woofer/midrange
Frequency Range: 32hz - 20khz
Sensitivity: 94db/W/m
Impedance: 6 ohms (nominal)
Crossover Point: 2.8 kHz woofer to tweeter
Suggested Amplifer: REDGUM RGi120, RGM175, (50-200 watts RMS)
Dimensions: 210 (W) x 273 (D) x 985 (H) mm
Features: Bi-Wiring as standard; lead shot chamber
Connections: 5-way gold binding post connections
Crossover: Polypropylene capacitors, air-cored inductors, wire wound
Shipping weight: 19.8 kg (26kg cubic) each without lead shot
REDGUM Regnans Loudspeakers
“Regnans” – Ruling or reigning, referring to height.
Product Type: Floorstanding Speakers
Cabinet Finish: real Red Gum wood veneer over MDF core
Bass Loading: Bass refex, front ported
Driver Complement: 2-way, three driver system, 25mm soft dome
tweeter, 2 x 165mm polypropylene woofer/midrange
Frequency Range: 30hz - 20khz
Sensitivity: 94db/W/m
Impedance: 6 ohms (nominal)
Crossover Point: 2.8 kHz woofers to tweeter
Suggested Amplifer: REDGUM RGi120, RGM175, RGM300, (50-400
watts RMS)
Dimensions: 210 (W) x 315 (D) x 1100 (H) mm
Features: solid red gum edge trim; Bi-Wiring as standard; lead shot
Connections: 5-way gold binding post connections
Crossover: Polypropylene capacitors, Heavy air-cored inductors,
Shipping weight: 26kg (23kg cubic) each without lead shot
REDGUM speakers are warranted to be free of defects in material and
workmanship, subject to the following conditions and limitations, for
FIVE (5) years from the date of purchase by the original owner.
Warranty claims must be accompanied by proof of purchase, including
This warranty is subject to the following conditions and limitations.
This warranty is void and inapplicable if the speakers have:not been used in accordance with the instructions contained
in the manual;
been subject to misuse or abuse, one example of which
would be burned voice coils;
been modifed, repaired or tampered with by anyone not
specifcally authorised in writing to do so by REDGUM or its
been subject to inputs in excess of the maximum rating, or
inputs from unstable or clipped amplifers;
been damaged by accident, intent, neglect or transportation.
Should the product be faulty, the owner is liable for the cost of freight
to the nearest REDGUM repair agent, or the REDGUM Audio factory.
Should the product be found to be without fault, the owner will be liable
for the return freight also.
Warranty Registration
Complete for warranty registration:
Zip/Post Code
Date of purchase
Place of purchase
Model No
Serial Number (if any)
Fax this page to the REDGUM Audio factory at +61 3 9897 1399
Alternatively, you may email the details (including serial number) to
If you are not the original owner of this REDGUM product, feel free to
send your unit’s details to so that you can
be placed on the REDGUM Owner’s Register. We welcome your
feedback and would be happy to include you on our REDGUM Updates
email list.
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