1/10 Scale 2wd Electric Off-Road Racing Truck
MF2 O
WNER'S MANU
AL
OWNER'S
MANUAL
Carefully read through all instructions to familiarize yourself with the parts,
construction technique, and tuning tips outlined in this manual. Being able to grasp the
overall design of your new XXX-T MF2 racing truck before begining the construction
process will ensure a smooth assembly.
Take your time and pay close attention to detail. Keep this manual for future reference.
Team Losi, A Division of Horizon Hobby inc.,
4710 East Guasti Rd., Ontario CA 91761
Phone: (909) 390-9595 / Fax: (909) 390-5356
(web) www.TeamLosi.com / (email) feedback@TeamLosi.com
MADE IN THE UNITED ST
ATES OF AMERICA
STA
P/N - 800-0221
J.A.C.
5/01/2004
Setup Sheet
Track:
 Smooth  Slippery
 Indoor
 Outdoor  Rough  High-Bite
 Blue-Groove
 Tight /  Open
Driver:
Date:
FRONT SUSPENSION (Circle or Check the Appropriate Settings)
 In
o
Toe  Out
4
3
2
1
Spindle ball stud:
Ride Height
Camber
 Outside
 Inside
# of washers under steering /
tie-rod ball studs
Bellcrank ball stud:
–
+
o
 Stock
 No
 Top
 Middle
 Bottom
o
Caster  Other
Sway Bar  Yes
Spindle Location
A
B
C
# of washers
under ball stud
Front Shocks
1
2
3
 Inside
 Middle
 Outside
size:
 Long
 Short
Oil:
Piston:
 Standard /  Drilled
Spring:
Internal:  Yes /  No
Limiters:  Inside-
 Long
 Short
 Outside-
REAR SUSPENSION
 Inside
Toe-In  Outside
Body:
o
Spoiler:
o
 No Shim
4
3
2
1
o
Pivot Support  Shim Under Front # of shims:
1 Shim = 1
Ride Height
–
Rear Hub Spacing
 No
Sway Bar  Yes
 Dogbones  Aluminum
 Steel
o
Camber  +
Drive Shafts  CVDs
 Forward
 Center
 Rear
size:
 Short
 Long
Rear Shocks
C
B
A
1
2
 Outside
 Middle
 Inside
 Outside
 Inside
Oil:
Piston:
3
 Standard /  Drilled
Spring:
Limiters:  Inside-
Tires
Front:
Rear:
Internal:  Yes /  No
 Outside-
Compound
 Long
 Short
Foam
Motor:
Pinion/Spur:
/
Battery Position:
Weather Conditions/Notes:
800-0223
Setup Sheet
Track:
 Smooth  Slippery
 Indoor
 Outdoor  Rough  High-Bite
 Blue-Groove
 Tight /  Open
Driver:
Date:
FRONT SUSPENSION (Circle or Check the Appropriate Settings)
 In
Toe  Out
1
o
Spindle ball stud:
Ride Height Arms level
Camber
–
+
1
 Stock
Caster  Other
 No
Sway Bar  Yes
30
1
A
B
C
Spindle Location
 Top
 Middle
 Bottom
o
# of washers
under ball stud
2
 Long
 Short
30wt.
Piston:
 Standard /  Drilled
#56
Red
Spring:
Internal:  Yes /  No
Limiters:  Inside- “A” (0.120”)
 Outside-
3
 Inside
Toe-In  Outside
 Long
 Short
Body: MF2
o
Spoiler: Standard
o
 No Shim
Pivot Support  Shim Under Front # of shims:
4
3
2
1
o
1 Shim = 1
2
Ride Height Dogbones just below level
–
Camber  +
0
Rear Hub Spacing
 No
Sway Bar  Yes
 Dogbones  Aluminum
 Steel
o
Drive Shafts  CVDs
Spring:
#56
Red
C
B
A
 Forward
 Center
 Rear
size:
 Short
 Long
Rear Shocks
30wt.
Oil:
Piston:
1
2
3
 Inside
 Middle
 Outside
size:
REAR SUSPENSION
4
3
2
1
0
Bellcrank ball stud:
o
Front Shocks
Oil:
 Outside
 Inside
# of washers under steering /
tie-rod ball studs
1
2
 Outside
 Middle
 Inside
3
 Outside
 Inside
 Standard /  Drilled
Limiters:  Inside-
Tires
Internal:  Yes /  No
 Outside-
Compound
 Long
 Short
Foam
Front:
8-Rib (LOSA7507R)
Red
Standard
Rear:
King Pin (LOSA7637R)
Red
Standard
Motor:
Battery Position:
Pinion/Spur:
/
86
Middle
Weather Conditions/Notes:
800-0223
Welcome Team Losi XXX-T MF2 Owner!
Thank you for choosing the Team Losi XXX-T Matt Francis, Edition 2. Over the past year and a half I, along with Team Losi
engineers and team members, have done extensive testing and development to give you the truck you just purchased. In addition to the
many specialty parts used on my previous race winning truck this MF2 includes a host of new and revised parts that have helped me and
my team mates get to the winners circle time and time again. I think you will find it is tougher, faster, and easier to drive than anything out
there. As you build your new XXX-T MF2 kit, be sure to read and follow the instructions carefully and don’t forget to check out the setup and tuning tips in the back of this manual. I hope you will enjoy your new Team Losi XXX-T M F2 as much as I do and wish you
much success. See you at the track!
Good Luck!
1. INTR
ODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
TRIPLE-X-T FRANCIS, EDITION 2, COMPLETED KIT DIMENSIONS
Length: 16.195"
Wheelbase: 11.050"
Front Width: 12.725"
All dimensions at ride height.
Rear Width: 12.875"
Height: 5.505"
Weight will vary depending on accessories.
NOTES & SYMBOLS USED
Step A-1
This is a common step sequence found at the beginning of
each new illustration throughout the manual.
‰1. Each step throughout the entire manual has a check box to
the left of it. As you complete each step, mark the box with a check. If
you need to take a break and return to building at a later time, you will
be able to locate the exact step where you left off.
*NOTE: This is a common note. It is used to call attention to
specific details of a certain step in the assembly.
been assigned to each part and remain the same throughout the manual.
In some illustrations, parts which have already been installed are not
shown so that the current steps can be illustrated more clearly.
For your convenience, an actual-size hardware identification
guide is included with each step. To check a part, hold it against the
silhouette until the correct part is identified. In some cases extra hardware has been supplied for parts that may be easy to lose.
The molded parts in the kit are manufactured to demanding tolerances. When screws are tightened to the point of being snug, the
parts are held firmly in place. For this reason, it is very important that
screws not be overtightened in any of the plastic parts.
To ensure that parts are not lost during construction, it is recommended that you work over a towel or mat to prevent parts from rolling away.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Even if you are familiar with Team
Losi kits, be sure and pay attention to these notes. They point out very
important details during the assembly process. Do not ignore these
notes!
The Team Losi icon designates a performance tip. These tips
are not necessary, but can improve the performance of your
XXX-T MF2 truck.
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTES
1. Select an area for assembly that is away from the reach of
small children. Some parts in this kit are small and can be swallowed
by children, causing choking and possible internal injury.
2. The shock fluid and greases supplied should be kept out of
children's reach. They are not intended for human consumption!
3. Exercise care when using any hand tools, sharp instruments,
or power tools during construction.
4. Carefully read all manufacturers' warnings and cautions for
any chemicals, glues, or paints that may be used for assembly and
operating purposes.
In illustrations where it is important to note which direction
parts are facing, a helmet like this one will be included in the illustration. The helmet will always face with a driver's perspective. Any reference to the right or left side will relate to the direction of the helmet.
KIT/MANUAL ORGANIZATION
The kit is composed of different bags marked A through G. Each bag
contains all of the parts necessary to complete a particular section of
the kit. Some of these bags have subassembly bags within them. It is
essential that you open only one bag at a time and follow the correct
assembly sequence, otherwise you may face difficulties in finding the
correct part. It is helpful to read through the instructions for an entire
bag prior to beginning assembly. Key numbers (in parentheses) have
i
TOOLS REQUIRED
Team Losi has supplied all necessary Allen wrenches and a special wrench that is needed for assembly and adjustments. The following
common tools will also be required: Needle nose pliers, regular pliers, hobby knife, scissors or other body cutting/trimming tools, and a
soldering iron may be necessary for radio installation. 3/16", 1/4", 11/32", and 3/8" nut drivers are optional.
RADIO/ELECTRICAL
A suggested radio layout is provided in this manual. Your high performance R/C center should be consulted regarding specific questions
pertaining to radio/electrical equipment.
HARDWARE IDENTIFICATION
When in question, use the hardware identification guide in each step. For screws, the prefix number designates the screw size and number of
threads per inch (i.e., 4-40 is #4 screw with 40 threads per inch). The second number or fraction designates the length of the screw. For Cap
Head and Button Head Screws, this number refers to the length of the threaded portion of the screw. For Flat Head Screws, this number refers
to the overall length of the screw. Bearings and bushings are referenced by the inside diameter x outside diameter. Shafts and pins are referred
to by diameter x length. Washers are described by inside diameter or the screw size that will pass through the inside diameter. E-clips are sized
by the shaft diameter that they attach to.
MOTORS AND GEARING
The XXX-T MF2 includes an 86-tooth, 48-pitch Kevlar spur gear. The overall internal drive ratio of the transmission is 2.56:1. The pinion gear
that is used will determine the final drive ratio. To calculate the final drive ratio, first divide the spur gear size by the pinion gear size. For
example, if you are using a 18-tooth pinion gear, you would divide 86 (spur gear size) by 18 (pinion gear size) 86/18=4.78. This tells you that
4.78 is the external drive ratio. Next, multiply the internal drive ratio (2.56) by the external drive ratio (in this case 4.78). 2.56 x 4.78 = 12.23.
This means that by using a 18-tooth pinion gear with a 86-tooth spur gear, the final drive ratio is 12.23:1.
Consult your high-performance shop for recommendations to suit your racing style and class. The chart below lists some of the more
common motor types and a recommended initial gearing for that motor. Ratios can be adjusted depending on various track layouts, tire sizes,
and battery types.
RECOMMENDED INITIAL GEARING FOR COMMON MOTORS
TYPE OF MOTOR
PINION
SPUR
24o Stock
19-21
86
10-Turn Modified
17
86
11-Turn Modified
18
86
12-Turn Modified
19
86
13-Turn Modified
20
86
14-Turn Modified
21
86
15-Turn Modified
22
86
16-Turn Modified
23
86
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. INTRODUCTION ................................................................. i
2. BAG A ................................................................................. 1-2
Completed Kit Dimensions ................................................... i
3. BAG B ................................................................................. 3-7
Notes & Symbols .................................................................. i
4. BAG C ............................................................................... 8-11
Kit Manual Organization ...................................................... i
5. BAG D ............................................................................ 12-19
Important Safety Notes ......................................................... i
6. BAG E ............................................................................ 20-23
Tools Required ..................................................................... ii
7. BAG F .................................................................................. 24
Radio/Electrical ................................................................... ii
8. BAG G ............................................................................ 25-30
Hardware Identification ....................................................... ii
9. Checklist Before Your First Run ....................................... 31
Recommended Gearing ........................................................ ii
10. Tips From the Team ...................................................... 31-33
11. Spare Parts List ............................................................. 34-36
Team Losi is continually changing and improving designs; therefore, the actual part may appear slightly different than the illustrated part. Illustrations of parts and
assemblies may be slightly distorted to enhance pertinent details.
ii
BAG A
Step A-1
Servo Saver Assembly:
6
5
6
3
4
‰ 1. Place the Servo Saver Bottom (1) over the Servo Saver Post
(2) and slide the Servo Saver Bottom all the way against the hex at
the opposite end. Be sure that the hex on the Servo Saver Post is
inserted into the hex in the Servo Saver Bottom.
‰ 2. Slide the Servo Saver Top (3) down over the Servo Saver Post
so that the 'V' area of the Servo Saver Top rests in the 'V' area of the
Servo Saver Bottom. The arm on the Servo Saver Top and the arm on
the Servo Saver Bottom should now point in opposite directions as
shown in Figure 1.
‰ 3. Slide the Servo Saver Spring (4) over the Servo Saver Post
and push it into the recessed area of the Servo Saver Top. Install the
Servo Saver Spring Cap (5) and thread the 6-40 Locknut (6) onto the
end of the Servo Saver Post.
‰ 4. Tighten the 6-40 Locknut all the way down and then loosen it
two full turns (e.g. 360o x 2). This is a good starting point for the
adjustment. Once assembly is complete, if you wish, the servo saver
can be adjusted tighter or looser.
1
2
Figure 1
Step A-2 Ball Stud Install:
11
8
7
7
3
‰ 1. Insert a 4-40 Mini-Locknut (7) into the outer hex area in the
Servo Saver Bottom (1) and steering Idler Arm (8) as shown in Figure 2. Thread a 3/16" Ball Stud (11) through the outside hole in each
arm, into the Nuts, and tighten. Insert a 4-40 Mini-Locknut into the
hex area in the Servo Saver Top (3). Thread a 3/16" Ball Stud through
the hole in the Arm, into the Nut, and tighten.
‰ 2. Insert a 4-40 Mini-Locknut into the hex areas in the rear holes
of the Servo Saver Bottom and the steering Idler Arm as shown in
Figure 2. Thread a 3/16" Ball Stud through the Arms, into each Nut,
and tighten.
7
1
11
Figure 2
Step A-3 Servo Link:
1
*NOTE: Be sure to snap each end of the Draglink onto the correct Ball Studs as shown!
‰ 1. Snap one end of the steering Draglink (12) to the rear Ball
Stud (11) on the Servo Saver Bottom (1). Snap the other end to the
Rear Ball Stud on the steering Idler Arm (8).
8
11
12
1
Figure 3
BAG A (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step A-4 Steering Install:
17
15
16
13
17
13
‰ 1. Insert a 3/32" x 3/16" Ball Bearing (13) into each of the two,
angled holes in the bottom of the front Kickplate (14). Insert the other
two Bearings into the two outer holes in the Steering Brace (15).
‰ 2. Insert a 3/32" x .930" Hinge Pin (16) through the hole in the
steering Idler Arm (8) and center the Hinge Pin in the Idler Arm.
Place the Servo Saver assembly and the steering Idler Arm into the
Bearings in the Kickplate so that the installed Draglink is to the front
as shown in Figure 4.
‰ 3. Place the Steering Brace on top of the Servo Saver assembly
and steering Idler Arm ensuring that the Ball Bearings slide over the
Pins.
There is a short Thread-Cutting Screw included in the Wrench
bag. This Screw can be used to tap threads in the holes in the Kickplate.
Pre-tapping these holes makes it easier to install the Screws during
assembly.
16
8
14
‰ 4. Secure the Steering Brace to the Kickplate using two 4-40 x
Figure 4
3/8" Cap Head Screws (17).
Step A-5 Threaded Insert Install:
18
19
18
‰ 1. Install a Threaded Insert (18) into the top of each of the two
forward holes in the main Chassis (19). The inserts should be installed with the hex-side up as shown in Figure 5. Press the Threaded
Inserts all the way into the holes in the Chassis, lining up the hex on
the inserts with the hex in the holes.
Figure 5
Step A-6 Kickplate Install:
There is a short Thread-Cutting Screw included in the Wrench
bag. This Screw can be used to tap threads into the back two holes in
the front part of the main Chassis. Pre-tapping these holes makes it
easier to install the Screws during assembly.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Ensure that the hex of the Threaded
Insert remains seated in the hex area on top of the Chassis.
‰ 1. Attach the front Kickplate (14) to the bottom of the main Chassis (19). Align the four holes in the Kickplate with the four holes in
the main Chassis. Secure the Kickplate to the Chassis by threading
two 4-40 x 3/8" Cap Head Screws (17) through the forward holes and
into the Threaded Inserts (18). Thread two more 4-40 x 3/8" Cap
Head Screws through the two rear holes of the Kickplate and into the
Chassis.
*NOTE: After completion of this bag, there will be some leftover parts which will be used in a later step in this manual.
17
19
14
17
Figure 6
2
BAG B
Step B-1 Front Bulkhead Install:
17
17
19
20
54
There is a short Thread-Cutting Screw included in the Wrench
bag. This Screw can be used to tap threads into the middle bottom
hole in the front Bulkhead. Pre-tapping this hole makes it easier to
install the Screw during assembly.
‰ 1. Position the front Bulkhead (20) on top of the front Kickplate
(14) and main Chassis (19) as shown in Figure 7. Secure the front
Bulkhead to the Chassis by threading two 4-40 x 3/8" Cap Head
Screws (17) through the hole in the top of the Bulkhead and into the
Threaded Inserts in the Chassis.
‰ 2. Secure the front Kickplate to the front Bulkhead by threading
a 4-40 x 3/8" Flat Head Screw (54) through the center hole in the
front of the Kickplate and into the Bulkhead.
14
Figure 7
54
Step B-2 Front Shock Tower Assembly:
23
25
7
24
44
7
‰ 1. Insert two 4-40 x 7/8" Cap Head Screws (23) — one on each
23
side — through the second hole out(#2) in the top of the front Shock
Tower (24). Secure the Screws to the Shock Tower (24) by threading
a 4-40 Nut (25) over each Screw and tightening.
‰ 2. Press a 4-40 Mini Locknut (7) into the hex area in the top, rear
of each side of the front Shock Tower. Insert a 4-40 x 1/2" Flat Head
Screw (44) into each of the two front Body Mounts (56) from the
side with the recess for the head of the Screw.
‰ 3. Attach a front Body Mount to the front of each side of the
front Shock Tower so that the posts point up as shown in Figure 8.
Secure the Body Mounts by threading the Screws through the Tower
and into the Locknuts.
56
25
44
Figure 8
Step B-3 Front Shock Tower Install:
9
17
24
17
26
IMPORTANT NOTE: The Screws in the top of the Shock
Tower must be pointing forward as shown in Figure 9.
‰ 1. Attach the front Shock Tower (24) to the front Bulkhead (20)
with four 4-40 x 3/8" Cap Head Screws (17). The Screws thread into
the top-most and bottom-most holes in the Bulkhead, corresponding
with the appropriate holes in the front Shock Tower. The middle holes
in the Bulkhead are not used.
‰ 2. Place two Ball Stud Washers (9) over each of the two 3/8"
Ball Studs (26). Thread a 3/8" Ball Stud into the outside of the three
camber position holes (#3), on each side of the front Bulkhead.
26
20
3
9
Figure 9
BAG B (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step B-4 Spindle Carrier Assembly:
36
32
41
36
71
28
‰ 1. Insert a front Axle (30) into each of the front Spindles [left
(28), right (29)] as shown. The hole in the Axle should line up with
the hole in the Spindle.
‰ 2. Attach the left Spindle (28) to the left Spindle Carrier (33) by
aligning the holes in each part and inserting a 1/8" x 1.250" Hinge
Pin (71) from the bottom. Do not insert the Pin all the way through
both parts yet.
‰ 3. Insert a .050" front Spindle Spacer (36) between the top of the
Spindle and the Spindle Carrier as shown in Figure 10. Once the
Spacer is in place, insert the Hinge Pin through the Spacer and the
top of the Spindle Carrier.
‰ 4. Center the Hinge Pin and secure it with two 1/8" E-clips (41).
Apply a small drop of Thread Lock (21) (found in this bag) to a 5-40
Set Screw (32). With the Hinge Pin still centered, thread the Set Screw
into the back side of the Axle and tighten.
‰ 5. Repeat Steps 1-4 for the right Spindle (29) and right Spindle
Carrier (34).
32
30
71
33
41
Figure 10
Step B-5 Ball Stud Install:
7
58
22
33
26
7
28
IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not overtighten the Ball Studs in the
Spindle Carriers.
‰ 1. Insert a 3/8" Short Head (Silver Colored) Ball Stud (22) into
the middle of the top holes in the left Spindle Carrier (33), from the
front as shown, and tighten.
‰ 2. Insert a 4-40 Mini Locknut (7) onto the hex area in the top of
the left Spindle (28). Place a #4 HardEned Washer (58) over a 3/8"
Ball Stud (26) and thread it into the Mini Nut from the bottom of the
Spindle, and tighten.
‰ 3. Repeat Steps 1-2 for the right side Spindle Carrier Asembly.
Once assembly of your new XXX-T MF2 is complete, you may
notice that the tires toe-in slightly as the suspension compresses. We
have found this setting to yield the best performance. Should you
prefer to change this so that the tires do not toe in, you can remove
the Ball Stud Washer under the Ball Stud on the Spindles .
58
22
26
Figure 11
4
BAG B (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step B-6 Front Suspension Assembly:
35
40
41
‰ 1. Place the left Spindle and Carrier assembly (Figure 11) into a front suspension Arm (38) as shown in Figure 12. Note that the Spindle
Arm faces the side of the suspension Arm with the Shock mount holes (rear) and the Ball Stud (22) in the Spindle Carrier is pointing forward.
Line up the two sets of holes in the Spindle Carrier (33) with the holes in the front Arm. Install a 1/8" E-clip on one end of each 1/8" x .960"
Hinge Pin (35) and slide it through the outer-most of the two holes in the Arm and Spindle Carrier. Attach a 1/8” E-clip (41) to the other side
of the Hinge Pin.
‰ 2. Install a 1/8" E-clip on one end of each inner 1/8" x 1.42" Hinge Pin (40).
‰ 3. Attach the Arm to the left side of the front Pivot Block (39) by inserting Hinge Pin from the back side, through the inside hole in the front
Arm and Pivot Block, as shown in Figure 12.
‰ 4. Repeat Steps 1-3 for the right Spindle and Carrier assembly and remaining front suspension Arm.
‰ 5. Slide the front Hinge Pin Brace (42) over both front inner Hinge Pins with the flat side pointing down. The E-clip grooves in both
Hinge Pins should be exposed in front of the Brace. Secure the Brace by installing a 1/8" E-clip to the front of each Hinge Pin.
The XXX-T MF2 has been designed with Varaible Length Arms (VLA). For a more detailed description of the VLA system, please read
the VLA section in the back of this manual.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure that the Hinge Pin is installed into the outer-most hole for both the VLA Arms and Spindle Carriers.
39
40
41
35
41
38
42
Figure 12
Step B-7
33
Front Suspension Install:
150
89
150
43
89
‰ 1. Hold the Chassis assembly upside down. Place the front Pivot
Block (39) over the front edge of the front Kick plate (14) as shown
in Figure 13. The front edge of the front Bulkhead (20) should be
positioned between the front Pivot Block and the Hinge Pin Brace
(42).
‰ 2. While holding the front suspension assembly in place, position the front Bumper (43) on the bottom of the front Pivot Block so
that the four holes in the Bumper are aligned with the four holes in
the Pivot Block. The Bumper should be attached as shown so that the
edges curve towards the top of the Chassis. Secure the Bumper and
Pivot Block to the front Bulkhead and Kickplate by threading two 440 x 5/8" Flat Head Screws (150) through two forward-most holes in
the Bumper and Pivot Block and into the Bulkhead.
‰ 3. Thread the two 4-40 x 7/8" Flat Head Screws (89) throught
the two remaining holes in the front Bumper and into the Bulkhead.
39
42
20
Figure 13
5
14
BAG B (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step B-8 Tierod - Camber Link Assembly:
87
45
46
46
There is a small container/package of White Grease (87) in this
bag. It is recommened that a small amount of this be applied to the
threads of the Turnbuckles before trying to thread on thte plastic Rod
Ends. Please use this lube sparingly as it will be used during the assembly of the Differential as well.
*NOTE: The two ends of the Turnbuckle are threaded opposite.
The end closest to the groove, next to the square, has standard righthand threads, the other end has left-hand threads. This allows the
length of the Tierods, once installed, to be adjusted without removing them.
Figure 14A
45
Figure 14B
‰ 1.Thread a plastic Rod End (45) onto each end of a
2-3/8" Turnbuckle (46). Tighten both Rod Ends equally until the
Tierod is the same length, and the Rod Ends are in the same orientation, as the assembled Tierod in Figure 14B (Left).
‰ 2. Assemble the second camber link with the Rod Ends orientated as Figure 14B (Right).
Left
Right
Step B-9
Camber Link Install:
*NOTE: Assure that the grooves on all of the front Turnbuckles
are located on the drivers right-hand side for easier adjustment later.
‰ 1. Place a "Foam Thing" (47) over the Ball Studs (22) on each of 20
the Spindle Carriers (33), (34) and on the Ball Studs (26) on both
sides of the Bulkhead (20). Next, attach one side of a camber link
assembly (Figure 14B; Left) to the Ball Stud on the left side of the
Bulkhead. Attach the other side of the camber link assembly to the
silver colored Ball Stud in the Spindle Carrier.
‰ 2. Attach the second camber link Tierod to the right side of the
car in the same fashion.
45
26
33
Figure 15
47
6
BAG B (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step B-10
Steering Tierod:
Figure 16A
45
45
46
There is a small container/package of White Grease (87) in this
bag. It is recommened that a small amount of this be applied to the
threads of the Turnbuckles before trying to thread on thte plastic Rod
Ends. Please use this lube sparingly as it will be used during the assembly of the Differential as well.
*NOTE: The two ends of the Turnbuckle are threaded opposite.
The end closest to the groove, next to the square, has standard righthand threads, the other end has left-hand threads. This allows the
length of the Tierods, once installed, to be adjusted without removing them.
‰ 1.Thread a Plastic Rod End (45) onto each End of a
2-3/8" Turnbuckle (46). Tighten both Rod Ends equally until the Rod
is the same length and the Rod Ends are in the same orientation as the
assembled Tierod in Figure 16B. Make two of these Tierod assemblies.
Step B-11
72
87
Figure 16B
Steering Tierod Install:
*NOTE: Assure that the grooves on all of the front Turnbuckles are located on the drivers right-hand side for easier adjustment later.
‰ 1. Snap one end of a steering Tierod assembly (Figure 16B) to the Ball Stud (11) in the steering Servo Saver Bottom (1). Snap the other
end to the Ball Stud (26) in the left Spindle (28).
‰ 2. Attach the second steering Tierod to the right side of the car.
28
26
11
1
Figure 17
45
7
BAG C
Step C-1 Universal Assembly:
‰ 1. Position the U-Joint Cross Ball (60) inside the "ears" on the
rear Axle (62) with the threaded hole pointing away from the Axle.
Align the through hole in the Ball with the two holes in the Axle.
‰ 2. Slide the 2.5mm x 12mm Solid Pin (61) through the holes in
the Axle and Ball. Center the Pin in the Axle.
17
IMPORTANT NOTE: Apply the thread-lock to the Set Screw
before threading it into the Cross Ball. If Thread Lock is not used,
the Set Screw could loosen during operation causing your Universal
to possibly fail or be damaged.
‰ 3. Apply a small drop of Thread Lock (21) (used previously in
Bag B) to a 4-40 x 3/32" Set Screw (56). With the Pin centered in the
Axle, secure it by threading the Set Screw into the threaded hole in
the Cross Ball.
‰ 4. Allign the flat sections on the Dogbone (59) with the flat sections in the end of the Yoke (63) and place them together. Secure the
two by applying a small drop of Thread Lock to a 4-40 x 3/8" Cap
Head Screw (17) and threading it through the Yoke and into the
Dogbone and tightening.
‰ 5. Install the Yoke onto the Cross Ball pins by first inserting one
pin of the Ball into one "ear" of the Yoke at a slight angle. Gently
spread the "ears" of the Yoke and slip the second "ear" of the Yoke
over the remaining pin on the Ball.
‰ 6. Build two of these assemblies.
60
56
61
59
60
63
62
17
56
61
Figure 18
Step C-2 Rear Hub Assembly:
7
69
67
‰ 1.Thread a silver colored Ball Stud (22) into the inside hole (A)
of the left rear Hub (66), from the front (the side without the recessed
area) and secure it from the back side with a 4-40 Mini-Nut (7) as
shown in Figure 19.
22
27
68
7
IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not overtighten the Ball Studs.
*NOTE: If the 3/16" x 3/8" Bearings only have one Teflon™ seal
(colored, woven-looking) in it, position the seal to the outside of the
Hub.
‰ 2. Press a 3/16" x 3/8" sealed Bearing (27) into the inside of the
left rear Hub. Slide a rear Axle (62) through the sealed Bearing and
the rear Hub.
‰ 4. Slide an inner rear Bearing Spacer (67) over the rear Axle,
from the outside, against the inside of the first Bearing. Place a second 3/16" x 3/8" Bearing over the rear Axle and press the Bearing
into the outside of the rear Hub.
‰ 5. Place a rear Axle Spacer (68) over the rear Axle, small side
first, against the outside Bearing.
‰ 6. Secure the rear Axle and the rear Axle Spacer by inserting a
1/16" x 7/16" Spirol Pin (69) through the small hole in the rear Axle.
The Pin should be centered in the Axle.
‰ 7. Repeat Steps 1-6 for the right rear Hub (65).
27
62
67
22
66
69
Figure 19
8
68
27
BAG C (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step C-3 Rear Hub Assembly Install:
41
70
71
‰ 1. Place the left rear Hub (66) between the outer rails of the left
rear suspension Arm (51) (Marked "L"). Be sure that the Ball Stud
in the Hub Carrier is pointing towards the front (side with Shock
mount) of the Arm. Position a 0.060" rear Hub Spacer (70) between
the Hub and the Suspension Arm on each side of the Hub.
‰ 2. Install a 1/8" E-clip (41) onto one side of the outer rear Hinge
Pin (71). Slide the Hinge Pin into the outside hole on the Suspension Arm, through each of the two Hub Spacers and the outside hole
in the rear Hub. Secure the Hinge Pin with another 1/8" E-clip.
‰ 3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 for the right rear Hub (65) assembly.
*Note: Read the VLA section in the back of this manual for tips
on when to use the inner holes on the rear Arms and Hubs..
51
71
41
70
66
Figure 20
Step C-4 Rear Arm & Suspension Assembly Install:
52
44
54
48
‰ 1. Attach the plastic rear inner Pivot Block (49) to the rear Pivot
Plate (53) with two 4-40 x 1/2" Flat Head Screws (44) with the Hinge
Pin holes facing rearward. Thread the Flat Head Screws in 3-4 turns
to hold the plastic rear Pivot in place.
‰ 2. Locate the small Anti-Squat Shims (48) (read the "Anti-Squat"
section in "Tips" for when to use less of these). Place two Anti-Squat
Shims between the plastic rear Pivot and the rear Pivot Plate , making
sure the flat edge is towards the outside, and tighten the two Screws.
19
IMPORTANT NOTE: Ensure that the Anti-Squat Shims are
completely under the plastic rear Pivot to provide a rigid mounting
surface.
111
51
52
‰ 3. Attach the rear Pivot Plate to the Chassis (19) using four
49
4-40 x 3/8" Flat Head Screws (54). Make sure the Pivot Plate is flush
with the Chassis, and the holes in the Pivot Plate and Chassis are
aligned.
‰ 4. Slide a rear inner Hinge Pin (52) into the left rear suspension
Arm (51) marked 'L' push the Hinge Pin into the left side of the plastic
rear Pivot Block. Repeat for the right side.
‰ 5. Slide the aluminum rear Pivot (37) over the rear inner Hinge
Pins with the flat side facing towards the rear of the car.
‰ 6. Slide the Motor Guard (111) under the aluminum rear Pivot
and align the holes in the Motor Guard, rear Pivot, and rear Pivot
Plate.
48
37
53
53
54
44
REAR INNNER
PIVOT SCREWS
Figure 21
‰ 7. Apply a drop of Thread Lock (21) to two 4-40 x 3/8" Flat
Head Screws and thread them through the Pivot Plate and Motor Guard,
into the aluminum rear Pivot and tighten
If you notice some "slop" between the rear Arms and the Pivots,
you may need to losen the Screws securing the aluminum rear Pivot
and push forward on the Pivot while re-tightening the Screws.
9
54
BAG C (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step C-5 Rear Shock Tower Assembly:
23
22
25
55
25
‰ 1. Insert two 4-40 x 7/8" Cap Head Screws (23), one on each
side, through the third hole (#3) out on the top of the rear Shock
Tower (55) as shown in Figure 22. Secure the Screws to the Shock
Tower by threading a 4-40 Nut (25) onto each Screw and tightening.
23
IMPORTANT NOTE: The Screws should extend from the same
side of the Shock Tower as the two tabs near the center of the Shock
Tower.
‰ 2.Thread a silver colored Ball Stud (22) into the inside hole (#1)
on each side of the rear Shock Tower.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The Ball Stud installed in the rear Shock
Tower, must be a silver colored "Short Neck" Ball Stud.
22
Figure 22
Step C-6 Rear Shock Tower Install:
55
54
57
9
57
There is a short Thread-Cutting Screw included in the Wrench
bag. This Screw can be used to tap threads in the holes in the Main
Chassis. Pre-tapping these holes makes it easier to install the Screws
during assembly.
‰ 1. Place the rear Shock Tower (55) between the rear Suspension
Arms and against the rear of the Chassis (19) as shown in Figure 23.
The Shock Tower should sit flat against the rear Pivot Plate (53).
Place a Ball Stud Washer (9) over two 4-40 x 1/2" Cap Head Screws
(57). Secure the Shock Tower to the Chassis by threading the two
4-40 x 1/2" Cap Head Screws, with Washers installed, through the
tabs on the Shock Tower and into the Chassis.
‰ 2. Secure the rear Shock Tower to the rear Pivot Plate by threading a 4-40 x 3/8" Flat Head Screw (54) from the bottom side of the
Chassis through the Pivot Plate, and into the Shock Tower.
9
53
19
54
Figure 23
10
BAG C (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step C-7 Rear Camber Tierod Assembly:
45
72
87
There is a small container/package of White Grease in Bag B. It
is recommened that a small amount of this be applied to the threads
of the Turnbuckles before trying to thread on thte plastic Rod Ends.
Please use this lube sparingly as it will be used during the assembly
of the Differential as well.
*NOTE: The two ends of the turnbuckle are threaded opposite.
The end closest to the groove, next to the square, has standard righthand threads, the other end has left-hand threads. This allows the
length of the Tierods, once installed, to be adjusted without removing them.
72
Figure 24A
45
‰ 1.Thread a plastic Rod End (45) onto each end of the 2-3/4"
Turnbuckles (72). Tighten both Rod Ends equally until the Tierod is
the same length and the Rod Ends are in the same orientation as the
one shown in Figure 24B. Make two of these rear Camber Tierod
assemblies.
Figure 24B
Step C-8 Rear Camber Link Install:
*NOTE: Assure that the grooves on all of the rear Turnbuckles
are located on the drivers left-hand side for easier adjustment later.
‰ 1. Place a Foam Thing (47) over the Ball Studs (22) in both the
rear Hub and the rear Shock Tower.
‰ 2. Attach one end of a rear Camber Link assembly (Figure 24B)
to the Ball Stud (22) in the left rear Hub (66) and the other end to the
Ball Stud in the rear Shock Tower (55).
‰ 3. Repeat Step 1 for the right side of the car.
55
47
66
22
Figure 25
11
BAG D
Step D-1 Diff Nut Assembly:
76
73
76
73
‰ 1. Locate the 5/64" Allen Wrench (74) supplied with the kit.
74
Place the Diff Nut (73), over the Allen Wrench, with the ears on the
Diff Nut towards the bent end of the Allen Wrench.
‰ 2. Place the Square Diff Spring (76) over the Allen wrench against
the Diff Nut.
Figure 26
Step D-2 Diff Nut Assembly To Outdrive:
77
‰ 1. Insert all of the parts that are stacked on the wrench into the
male Outdrive/Diff Half (77). Line up the tabs on the Diff Nut (73)
with the slots in the Outdrive. Make certain that the Diff Spring (76)
is seated all the way into the Outdrive/Diff Half, and that it is flat to
the bottom of the pocket.
73
Leave the Allen Wrench in place to hold the Diff Nut in the
Outdrive while continuing assembly.
76
Figure 27
Step D-3 Diff Drive Ring To Male Outdrive:
79
SMALL AMOUNT
OF GREASE
79
‰ 1. Apply a small amount of Diff Grease (clear) (78) to the outside ridge of the Outdrive/Diff Half (77). Attach a Diff Ring (79) to
the Outdrive by lining up the "D shape" of the Ring with the "D
shape" of the Outdrive.
*NOTE: Only a small amount of Grease is needed. It is only
used to hold the Diff Ring in place.
77
IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not glue the Diff Ring to the
Outdrive/Diff Halves. Doing so may not allow the Rings to mount
flat on the Outdrive.
Figure 28
12
BAG D (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step D-4 Diff Gear:
80
82
‰ 1. Insert a 5mm x 8mm Ball Bearing (80) into the center of the
Diff Gear (81).
‰ 2. Press a 3/32" carbide Diff Ball (82) into each of the 12 small
holes in the Diff Gear. There should be a total of twelve Balls installed.
80
GREASE BOTH
SIDES
82
A clean, dry finger can be used to smooth out and spread the 81
Diff Grease.
‰ 3. Apply a small amount of Clear Diff Grease (78) to cover the
Diff Balls on both sides of the Gear.
IMPORTANT NOTE: There are two sets of Balls in Bag D.
Be certain to use the Balls that are packaged separatly (12 total) in
Step D-4. There is a second set of eight 5/64" Balls packaged with
Thrust Washers in the bag. These Balls will be used in Step D-6.
Figure 29
Step D-5 Diff Gear to Male Outdrive:
‰ 1. Apply a small bead of clear Diff Grease (78) to the exposed
82
side of the Diff Ring (79). Carefully place the Diff Gear(81) over the
bearing boss, so the Diff Balls (82) and Diff Gear rest flat against the
Diff Ring.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It is a good idea to hold the Diff Nut in
place, with the Allen Wrench, so the Diff Nut is not pushed out of
the Outdrive/Diff Half.
81
79
GREASE
Figure 30
13
BAG D (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step D-6 Bearing Insert to Female Outdrive:
75
75
84
85
86
88
*NOTE: Be very careful when installing the foam Thrust Bearing Seals, do not over-stretch them.
‰ 1. Locate the Diff Adjusting Screw (84) and carefully stretch the
two blue foam Thrust Bearing Seals (85) into the groves on the head
of the Diff Screw.
‰ 2. Place one of the Belleville Washers(75) onto the Diff Adjusting Screw with the cone pointing toward the head of the Diff Screw.
*NOTE: The Thrust Bearing Washers are packaged in a small
bag along with the eight 5/64" Thrust Bearing Balls.
‰ 3. Place a Thrust Washer (86) on the Diff Screw against the
Belleville Washer.
‰ 4. Grease the Thrust Washer well with White Thrust Bearing/
Assembly Grease (87) and place the eight 5/64" Thrust Bearing Balls
(88) on top of the Thrust Washer, around the Diff Screw. Apply more
White Thrust Bearing/Assembly Grease to the top of the Thrust Bearing Balls.
‰ 5. Place another Thrust Bearing Washer over the Diff Screw and
against the Thrust Bearing Balls.
‰ 6. Place another Belleville Washer on the Diff Screw with the
cone opening towards the head of the Thrust Washer.
88
84
85
86
GREASE
Figure 31
Step D-7 Diff Adjusting Screw Assembly:
‰ 1. Very carefully insert the Diff Thrust Assembly, into the female
Outdrive (83). Be very careful to make sure the Thrust Balls (88)
remain seated between the Thrust Washers (86) while inserting the
Diff Screw. Pull the threaded end of the Diff Screw until the Thrust
Bearing assembly rests against the inside of the female Outdrive.
83
IMPORTANT NOTE: Ensure that all eight Thrust Bearing
Balls remain in place between the two Washers, around the Diff Screw.
84
Figure 32
14
BAG D (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step D-8 Diff Ring to Female Outdrive:
79
80
79
80
‰ 1. Insert a 5mm x 8mm Ball Bearing (80) into the center of the
84
female Outdrive/Diff Half (83).
‰ 2. Place the 1/16" Allen Wrench (92) through the slot in the
Outdrive/Diff Half containing the Diff Screw (84). Slide the wrench
all the way against the Screw. By handling the Outdrive/Diff Half
with the Wrench inserted, the Diff Screw will be held in place while
the finishing assembly of the Differential.
‰ 3. Apply a small amount of Clear Diff Grease (78) to the outer
ridge of the Outdrive. Install the remaining Diff Ring (79), again lining up the "D shape" of the Outdrive/Diff Half with the "D shape" of
the Diff Ring. Apply a good size bead of grease to the exposed side
of the Diff Ring.
SMALL AMOUNT
OF GREASE
92
83
Figure 33
Step D-9 Diff Assembly:
‰ 1. Make sure that the slot in the Diff Screw (84) is lined up with
the slot in the female Outdrive/Diff Half (83) and that the Allen Wrench
is inserted in the slot in the Diff Screw.
‰ 2. Carefully remove the Allen Wrench from Diff Nut in the male
Outdrive. Insert it through the slot of the male Outdrive (same as
what was done with the female Outdrive). This will hold the Diff Nut
in place during assembly.
‰ 3. While holding the Female Outdrive/Diff Half with the Allen
Wrench inserted, carefully place the two Outdrive/Diff Halves together.
‰ 4. Hold the Diff assembly so that the Outdrive/Diff Half with the
Diff Nut (73) is pointing up. Slowly turn the Male Diff Half clockwise to thread the Diff Screw in the Diff Nut. Thread the two halves
together until the Screw just starts to snug up.
After about 4-5 turns when tightening the diff, tighten the screw
a little and then “work” the diff a little, by holding the Diff Gear and
Rotating the Outdrive/Diff Half. Then tighten the Diff a little more
and “work” the diff again. Continue this until the Diff is tight. This
will ensure proper seating of all the parts in the Diff assembly.
‰ 5. Tighten the Diff until the Gear (81) cannot be turned while
both of the Outdrives/Diff Halves are being held. Final Diff adjustment should be made after completion of the car.
77
81
84
73
Figure 34
15
83
BAG D (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step D-10 Bearing to Left Gearbox Half:
27
95
‰ 1. Insert a 3/16" x 3/8" sealed Bearing (27) into the top Bearing
seat of the left Gearbox Half (94).
‰ 2. Insert a 1/2" x 3/4" Bearing (95) into the lower Bearing seat of
the left Gearbox Half.
*NOTE: If the 1/2" x 3/4" Bearing only has one Teflon™ seal
(colored, woven looking) in it, position the seal to the outside of the
Gearbox Half.
27
IMPORTANT NOTE: Never allow the Gearbox Halves to
come into direct contact with any type of motor spray/cleaner. The
material used on these parts was selected with performance in mind,
and some motor sprays/cleaners may damage the parts.
94
95
Figure 35
Step D-11 Motor Plate to Right Gearbox Half:
96
27
57
95
98
97
*Note: The Motor Plate supplied in kit may look slightly different than pictured in Figure 36.
‰ 1. Place the Motor Plate (96) against the outside of the right
Gearbox Half (97) by aligning the hole in the Motor Plate with the
Top Shaft Bearing housing in the right Gearbox Half as shown in
Figure 36.
‰ 2. Rotate the Motor Plate so that the Screw holes in the Motor
Plate line up with the Screw holes in the Gearbox Half. Secure the
Motor Plate to the Gearbox Half by threading a 4-40 x 1/2" Cap
Head Screw (57) through the hole near the center of the Gearbox
Half from the inside into the hole in the Motor Plate and tighten.
‰ 3.Insert a 3/16" x 3/8"sealed Bearing (27) into the top
Bearing seat of the right Gearbox Half. Carefully push the Bearing
all the way into the Bearing seat using a pencil or the handle of a
hobby knife. Care should be taken not to damage the seals on the
Bearing.
*NOTE: If the 3/16" x 3/8" Sealed Bearing only has one Teflon™
seal (colored, woven looking) in it, position the seal to the outside of
the gearbox half.
‰ 4. Insert a 1/2" x 3/4" sealed Bearing (95) into the lower
bearing seat of the right Gearbox Half.
‰ 5. Press or lightly tap the Idler Gear Shaft (98), into the hole in
the center of the right Gearbox Half.
27
98
57
95
Figure 36
16
BAG D (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step D-12 Right Gearbox Half Assembly:
99
100
27
99
*NOTE: Be sure there is no flashing left on the Top Shaft Spacer
before you install it into the transimssion.
‰ 1. Slide the Top Shaft Spacer (99) over the long side of the Top
Shaft (90).
‰ 2. Insert the Top Shaft, threaded side first, through the Bearing
(27) in the right Gearbox Half (97). Firmly press the Slipper Shaft
into the Right Gearbox Half ensuring the Bearing is properly seated.
‰ 3. Insert a 1/8" x 3/8" Ball Bearing (100) into each side of the
Idler Gear (101). Place the Idler Gear over the Idler Gear Shaft (98).
101
90
97
100
95
IMPORTANT NOTE: Install the Differential so that the head
of the Diff Screw is on the left hand side of the car. This will make for
easier adjustment later.
‰ 4. Insert the Diff Assembly into the 1/2" x 3/4" Sealed Bearing
(95) into the right Gearbox Half with the Diff Nut (73) side first (Diff
Nut should be on same side of Gearbox as the Motor Plate).
*NOTE: Align the teeth on all Gears when installing the Differential.
98
Figure 37
Step D-13 Gearbox Assembly:
102
103
96
‰ 1. Carefully place the left Gearbox Half (94) over the assembled
right Gearbox Half.
‰ 2. Thread the 2-56 x 3/8" Cap Head Screw (102) into the lower,
forward hole in the Gearbox Housing from the left side.
‰ 3. Insert a 4-40 x 1" Cap Head Screw (103) into each of the two
rear holes in the left Gearbox Half and thread them into the Motor
Plate (96) as shown in Figure 38.
103
IMPORTANT NOTE: The top, forward hole in the Gearbox
Halves remains open at this point. This hole will be used to attach the
Gearbox to the rear Shock Tower.
97
94
102
Figure 38
17
BAG D (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step D-14 Slipper Clutch Assembly:
107
109
108
110
‰ 1. Slide the Slipper Backing Plate (104) over the Top Shaft (90), aligning the flat sections on the Top Shaft (90) with the flat sections of
the Slipper Backing Plate.
‰ 2. Place the Slipper Pad (105) on one side of the 86 tooth Spur Gear (106) and align the notches on the Spur Gear with the notches on the
Slipper Pad.
‰ 3. Place the Spur Gear, Pad side first, over the Top Shaft. The Slipper Pad should rest against the Slipper Backing Plate.
*NOTE: Ensure that the Slipper Pad remains indexed in the Spur Gear.
‰ 4. Install the second Slipper Pad to the exposed side of the Spur Gear. Again, align the notches on the Spur Gear with the notches on the
‰
‰
‰
Slipper Pad.
5. Place the second Slipper Backing Plate over the Top Shaft so that the large, flat surface of the Backing Plate rests against the Slipper
Pad.
6. Place the Slipper Spacer (107), long side first, onto the Slipper Shaft and against the outer Slipper Backing Plate.
7. Place the silver Slipper Spring (108) over the Slipper Shaft, followed by the Slipper Spring Retaining Washer (109) and secure with the
4-40 Locknut (110).
IMPORTANT NOTE: Before tightening the Locknut, check to see that the Slipper Pads are properly aligned with the notches on both
sides of the Spur Gear. If not, align them before proceeding.
‰ 8. Tighten the 4-40 Locknut all the way down, and then back it off four complete turns (360o x 4). This is a good starting point for
adjustment. Final adjustment can be made later.
105
90
106
104
105
104
107
108
109
110
Figure 39
18
BAG D (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step D-15 Gearbox Install:
‰ 1. Place the assembled Chassis (19) on a flat table so that the
rear suspension Arms (50), (51) and Chassis are laying flat on the
table. This will make installing the Gearbox a little easier.
‰ 2. While using one hand to pull back the Motor Guard (111), use
the other to place the Gearbox assembly under the Motor Guard.
*NOTE: Assure that both Dogbones are inserted into the
Outdrive/Diff Halves before you complete the installation.
‰ 3. Insert the ball portion of the each Dogbone (59) into its perspective Outdrive/Diff Half (77), (83), by aligning the pin in the
Dogbone with the slot in the Outdrives.
‰ 4. "Work" the Gearbox down onto the rear Pivot Plate (53) while
locating the upper front portion of the Gearbox Halves (94), (97)
between the mounts on the back side of the rear Shock Tower (55).
The Gearbox assembly should now be sitting flat on the rear Pivot
Plate.
‰ 5. Make sure that the Motor Guard has returned to its normal
position and the holes on top are lined up with the holes in the top of
the Gearbox Halves.
Although this process seems a little cumbersome, over time
it has proven to be the most efficient method of installing and
removing the Gearbox assembly, either for maintenance or initial installation
94
55
83
59
PULL BACK
111
Figure 40
Step D-16 Gearbox Install - Continued:
9
91
54
112
‰ 1. Place a Ball Stud Washer (9) onto the 4-40 x 1-1/2" Cap Head
94 97
Screw (112). Thread the Screw through the hole in the left side of the
rear Shock Tower, through both Gearbox Halves and into the Motor
plate (96).
*NOTE: In order to properly align all parts, it may be necessary to push the transmission down and forward while inserting the
Screw.
‰ 2. Hold the rear suspension Arms up so that the Dogbones stay
in place, and turn the car over holding the Gearbox in place while
doing so. Align the two holes in the rear of the Gearbox Housing with
the two holes in the rear of the Pivot Plate (53).
*NOTE: Do Not use the Thread-Cutting Screw for the installation of the Screws into the bottom of the Gearbox.
‰ 3. Apply a small amount of White Assembly Grease (87) to each
of the two 4-40 x 3/8" Flat Head Screws (54). Thread the Screws
through the two holes in the back of the Pivot Plate into the Gearbox
Halves (94), (97).
91
112
9
54
59
There is a short Thread-Cutting Screw included in the
Wrench bag. This Screw can be used to tap threads in the holes
in the Gearbox Halves. Pre-tapping these holes makes it easier
to install the Screws during assembly.
‰ 4. Secure the top of the Motor Guard to the top of the Gearbox
by threading a 4-40 x 5/16" Button Head Screw (91) through each of
the two holes in the Motor Guard and into the top of the Gearbox
Halves (94), (97).
111
Figure 41
19
BAG E
Step E-1
Shock Shaft Install:
119
118
118 119
‰ 1. Place a drop of Shock Fluid (127) on the grooved end of each
Shock Shaft [front (118), rear (119)]. Then slide Shock Shaft through
hex end of an assembled Shock Cartridge Body (114). Slide the Shaft
through until it is approximately midway between the threads as and
the grooved end as shown in Figure 42.
114
Figure 42
Step E-2
Shock End Install:
120
122
122
‰ 1. Carefully snap a 1/4" aluminum Shock Mount Ball (122) into
each of the Shock Ends on each of the Shafts.
‰ 2. Using needle-nose pliers, or small vise grips, grasp the front
Shock Shaft (118) between the grooves and thread a Shock End (120)
onto the Shock Shaft. Thread the Shock End all the way onto the
Shaft until the threads stop.
118
119
IMPORTANT NOTE: Use caution when threading the Shock
Ends onto the Shafts. Avoid gouging or scratching the Shock Shaft
while gripping Shock Shaft with the pliers. By placing a towel over
the shaft, then gripping the portion of the Shaft covered by the towel.
This will work very well to protect the Shock Shaft.
‰ 3. Repeat Step 1 and 2 for the second front Shaft and two rear
Shafts.
Figure 43
20
BAG E (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step E-3
Shock Piston Install:
Front
Rear
119
118
129
41
‰ 1. Place a "A" Spacer (129) over each of the front Shock Shafts
129
and move them up against the Shock Cartridges.
‰ 2. Snap a 1/8" E-clip (41) into the groove closest to the Cartridge on all four shafts (capturing the Spacers on the front Shock
Shafts).
‰ 3. Slide a #56 (Red) Shock Piston (123) over the end of each
Shaft until it rests against the E-clip. Secure the Pistons to the Shafts
with another 1/8" E-clip placed in the groove now exposed on the top
of the Shaft.
123
Figure 44
41
Step E-4 Filling the Shocks with Fluid:
‰ 1. Match the short, front Shock Bodies (125) to the short, front
Shock Shafts (118), and the long, rear Shock Bodies (126) to the
long, rear Shock Shafts (119).
‰ 2. Fill the Shock Bodies with 30wt.Shock Fluid (127) up to the
bottom of the threads inside the Shock Body.
*NOTE: Be sure to match the front Shock Shafts with the front
Shock Bodies.
‰ 3. Insert the shaft assembly with the Cartridge against either the
Shock Piston (123) (rear) or Shock Spacer (front). Slowly tighten the
Cartridge about two full turns only. With the Cartridge still slightly
loose, slowly push the Shock Shaft down into the Shock Body. This
will bleed the excess fluid out of the Shock. Once the Shock Shaft is
all the way in, tighten the Shock Cartridge the rest of the way.
‰ 4. Now, with the Shock Shaft still all the way in, secure the Cartridge by tightening it with pliers or a 7/16" Wrench approximately
1/8 of a turn. There should be no air in the Shocks as you push the
Shaft in and out. If there is, the Shock needs more Fluid. If the Shock
Shaft does not compress all the way, the Shock has too much Fluid in
it and more must be blead out by loosening the cartridge aproximately
1/4 turn and re-tightening (Shaft should be compressed during this
process).
*NOTE: If leaking persists around the outside, tighten the cartridge more. Be careful not to over tighten and strip the threads on
the Cartridge Body.
‰ 5. Repeat Steps 2-4 for the remaining three Shocks.
119 118
127
123
125 126
Figure 45
Step E-5 Shock Adjustment Nut Assembly:
*Note: This step will only be used for maintenance
purposes. These come pre-assembled in the kit.
130
138
*NOTE: Place a drop of Shock Fluid onto each O-ring before
installing it into the Shock Adjusting Nut.This will allow the Nut to
thread onto the Shock Body easily.
‰ 1. Place the O-ring (138) into the grove inside of the Shock Adjusting Nut (130), Be sure to seat the O-ring completely into the groove
as shown in Figure 46B.
SECTIONED VIEW OF
ASSEMBLED NUT WITH
O-RING PROPERLY
SEATED IN GROOVE.
Figure 46A
21
Figure 46B
BAG E (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step E-6 Spring Install:
130
‰ 1. Snap a Shock Spring Cup (128) with the small side down,
131
onto each of the four Shock Shafts (118), (119) and over the Shock
End (120).
‰ 2. Slide a Red Shock Spring (131) over all of the Shocks so that
the Spring rests on the Spring Cups.
‰ 3. Thread a Shock Spring Adjustment Nut (130), small side down,
on to the top of all four Shock Bodies (125), (126). Thread the Spring
Adjustment Nuts on to the Shocks until the Adjusting Nut just touches
the Spring.
*NOTE: Final ride height adjustment should be made once the
car is fully built and all radio gear and electrics are installed. Refer to
the setup tips provided in the back of this manual for final ride height
adjustment.
125 126
128
118 119
120
Figure 47
Step E-7
Rear Shock Install:
57
110
23
132
‰ 1.Position your car so that the Shock mounting holes in the front
55
of the Arms are accessible. Make sure that the Dogbones (59) stay in
the Outdrives/ Diff halves (77)(83).
‰ 2. Insert a 4-40 x 1/2" Cap Head Screw (57) through the Shock
Mount Ball in one of the rear Shocks. Position the bottom of the
Shock, with the Screw, in front of the Shock mounting area on the left
rear suspension Arm (51). Thread the Screw all the way into the middle
mounting hole in the rear Arm.
‰ 4. Slide a short Shock Mount Bushing (132), large side first,
over the Shock mounting Screw (23) in the top left side of the rear
Shock Tower (55).
‰ 5. Place the top of the Shock Body (126) over the Shock Mount
Bushing. Secure the Shock and Bushing to the Shock Tower by threading a 4-40 Locknut (110) onto the Shock Mount Screw.
*NOTE: Before attaching the top of the Shock, make sure that
the Dogbones are in place in the Outdrives.
‰ 6. Repeat Steps 2-5 for the right rear Shock.
110
126
122
Figure 48
22
57
51
BAG E (Con
ued)
(Conttin
inued)
Step E-8
Front Shock Install:
57
110
‰ 1. Insert the Shock End (120) of a front Shock into the Shock mounting area of the left front suspension Arm (38) and line up the hole in
the Shock Mount Ball (122) with the middle hole in the Arm.
‰ 2. Secure the Shock to the front Arm by threading a 4-40 x 1/2" Cap Head Screw (57) all the way into the Arm from the back side.
‰ 3. Slide a long Shock Mount Bushing (133), large side first, over the Shock mounting Screw (23) on the left side of the front Shock Tower
(24).
‰ 4. Place the top of the Shock Body (125) over the Shock Mount Bushing on the front Shock Tower. Secure the Shock and Bushing to the
Shock Tower by threading a 4-40 Locknut (110) onto the Shock mount Screw.
‰ 5. Repeat Steps 1-4 for the right front Shock.
133
110
125
23
24
122
38
57
120
Figure 49
23
BAG F
Step F-1
Motor and Gear Cover Install:
143
141
58
‰ 1. Attach the motor (not included) to the Motor Plate (96) using
two 3mm x 8mm Button Head Screws (141) and two #4 Washers
(58). Do not tighten the Screws yet.
*NOTE: There are usually four mounting holes on a motor can. To
install the motor, you must use two holes which are not vertical with
each other as shown in Figure 50B. Choose the set of holes that will
allow easiest access to the solder tabs on the motor.
‰ 2. Attach the pinion gear (not included) to the motor shaft by
aligning the set screw in the pinion with the flat side on the motor
shaft and tightening. Adjust gear mesh so that there is a little "backlash" between the Gears, and tighten the Motor Screws one at a time,
checking the mesh between the tightening of each Screw.
*NOTE: The gears need some backlash in order to function properly. Too much though will cause failure, so be sure to check the
Gear mesh at different points in the rotation of the Spur Gear.
*NOTE: Some of the Gear Covers may come pre trimmed from
the factory, with mounting holes already in place.
‰ 3. Locate the Gear Cover (142) and cut the back side of it along
the trim line as shown in Figure 50A. If not already present, drill
three 1/8" mounting holes in the gear cover at the three locations
marked with dimples.
‰ 4. Place the trimmed Gear Cover over the Motor Plate and secure it with three 4-40 x 1/8" Button Head Screws (143) through the
three tapped holes in the Motor Plate.
‰ 5. Install the Gear Cover Plug (144) into the large hole in the
Gear Cover.
Step F-2
Figure 50A
142
96
58
141
Figure 50B
Servo Assembly:
143
144
11
7
11
9
7
‰ 1. Using Table 52B (on the following page), determine which
Servo Arm (145) (found on the Steering tree, previously used in Bag
A) is required for your Servo. If your particular Servo is not listed,
try using the Arm recommended for another Servo made by the same
manufacturer.
Some Servos may require the use of a Ball Stud Washer (9) placed
behind the Ball Stud (11) for proper Servo Link alignment, as shown
in Figure 51A.
‰ 2. Insert a 4-40 Mini-Locknut (7) into the hex area on the back
side of the Servo Arm. Thread a 3/16" Ball Stud (11) through the hole
in the Servo Arm, into the Locknut, and tighten.
‰ 3. Plug the Servo into the radio system’s receiver (not included).
Make sure that there is power to the Receiver, and turn the transmitter on followed by the Receiver. Be sure that the trim settings for the
steering on your transmitter are set to the center. With the radio system still turned on, attach the Servo Arm to the output shaft so that
the Arm is one spline off center in the direction shown in Figure 51B.
Secure the Servo Arm using the screw supplied with the Servo.
Figure 51A
Figure 51B
24
145
BALL STUD WASHER (9)
REQUIRED FOR SOME
SERVOS
BAG F (Continued)
MOUNTING POST
PIN LOCATION
SERVO TYPE
AIRTRONICS
4
23
All
Futaba
2
25
S131, S131SH, S148, S3001, S5101,
S9101,S9201, S9301, S9401, S9403
Futaba
3
25
S3401, S9402, S9404, S9450
Futaba
4**
25
S9303
HiTech
3**
24
HS-605, HS-615, HS-925, HS-945
HiTech
1
24
All other's
JR
NES-507, NES-513, NES-517, NES-901,
1
23
NES-4000, NES-4131, NES-4721,
NES-4735, NES-9021,DS-8231
KO
2
23
PS-702, PS-703, PS-1001, PS-1003
KO
1
23
PS-901BH, PS-902
Multiplex
3
23
All
** Use 1 Ball Stud washer on the ball stud when attaching it to the servo arm.
Figure 52
Table 52A
Step F-3
REQUIRED STEERING LINK
SERVO ARM
LENGTH
55B
55B
55B
55B
55C
55C
55B
55B
55B
55B
Table 52B
Servo Mounting Post Install:
17
58
‰ 1. Use Tables 52A and 52B to determine how the Servo Mount-
58
ing Posts (146) should be attached to the Servo (not included).
Trim any flashing from the pins on the Mounting Posts so that
they will seat all the way into the holes in the Chassis and Chassis
Brace.
‰ 2. Place a #4 Washer (58) over each of the four 4-40 x 3/8" Cap
Head Screws (17) and attach the Servo Posts to the Servo by threading a Screw through the upper and lower holes in each Post. Do not
tighten the Screws yet! Just snug them up so that the Posts are held
in place, but can still be moved from side to side with a little resistance. The Screws will be tightened at a later step so that the Posts
have the correct spacing.
146
17
Figure 53
25
BAG F (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step F-4 Servo Mounting:
147
17
17
‰ 1. Install the Servo into the Chassis (19) as shown in Figure 54.
146
Insert the pin on the left Servo Mounting Post (146) into the hole in
the Chassis. Move the Servo and Posts slightly until both the left and
right Posts are inserted in the holes in the Chassis.
‰ 2. Place the Chassis Brace (147) on top of the Servo. The pins
from both Servo Mounting Posts should line up with the holes on the
bottom of the Chassis Brace. If they do not, move the Posts slightly
until the pins fit into the holes.
*NOTE: The Servo should be as close to centered between the
two Posts as possible
‰ 3. Remove both the Servo and the Chassis Brace from the car.
While holding the Brace in place, tighten the top two Screws, followed by the bottom two Screws. Holding the Brace in place will
help keep the Posts from moving while tightening the Screws.
‰ 4. Reinstall the Servo and Brace to the Chassis. Ensure that the
pins on both sides of the Servo Posts are in their respective holes, and
secure the Brace to the Chassis with four 4-40 x 3/8" Cap Head Screws
(17).
Step F-5
19
Figure 54
Servo Link:
149
148
148
149
Figure 55A
‰ 1. Thread a short plastic Rod End (148) onto each end of the
4-40 x 5/8" Set Screw (149).
‰ 2. Refer to Table 52B to determine the appropriate Servo Link
length for the servo that is installed. Tighten both sides equally until
the Rod is the same length as the one shown in Figure 55B or 55C.
Step F-6
Figure 55B
Figure 55C
Servo Link Install:
145
45
‰ 1. Attach one end of the Servo Link to the Ball Stud (11) in the
Servo Arm (145) and the other to the Ball Stud in the Servo Saver as
shown in Figure 56.
11
Figure 56
26
BAG F (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step F-7 Battery Insulation Tape Install:
‰ 1. Apply the Self Adhesive Battery Insulation Tape (121) to both
inner edges of the battery compartment on the Chassis (as shown in
Fig. 57) by aligning the cut-outs and edges with the Chassis contours.
Fold the Tape over the top edge the Chassis rails for proper adhesion.
121
19
Figure 57
Step F-8
Speed Control Install:
‰ 1. Cut a piece of Two Sided Tape (156) to the same size as the
bottom of the speed control (not included). Peel one side of the backing off and stick the Tape to the bottom of the speed control.
‰ 2. Make sure that the area on the left side of the Chassis (19) is
clean. Wipe this area off with a clean cloth or rag.
*NOTE: Rubbing alcohol can be used to clean any oily residue
that may be present on the chassis or receiver. Allow the alcohol to
dry before applying the two-sided Tape.
‰ 3. Peel the backing off of the Two Sided Tape and install the
speed control to the left side of the Chassis as shown in Figure 58.
‰ 4. Run the wire from the speed control through the slot in the left
rail on the Chassis, across the center of the Chassis, and through the
slot in the right rail of the Chassis.
Figure 58
27
BAG F (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Step F-9
Receiver Install:
‰ 1. Cut a piece of Two Sided Tape (156) to the same size as the
bottom of the receiver (not included). Peel one side of the backing
off and stick the Tape to the bottom of the receiver.
‰ 2. Make sure that the area on the right side of the Chassis (19) is
clean. Wipe this area off with a clean cloth or rag.
*NOTE: Rubbing alcohol can be used to clean any oily residue
that may be present on the Chassis or receiver. Allow the alcohol to
dry before applying the Two Sided Tape.
‰ 3. Peel the backing off of the Two Sided Tape and install the
receiver to the right side of the Chassis with the antenna wire exiting
the receiver towards the front of the car as shown in Figure 59.
‰ 4. Run the antenna wire forward to the Antenna Post on the Chassis. Run the wire into the small hole in the bottom of the Antenna
Mounting Post, and up through the top of the Post.
‰ 5. Slide the antenna wire through the Antenna Tube (157) (a
small drop of oil in the tube will make this easier) so that the wire
comes out the other end of the tube.
*NOTE: If antenna wire is shorter than the Tube, remove the
Tube and cut off enough of the Tube so that the wire will extend
about 3/4" past the end of the Tube.
‰ 6. While pulling the wire through the Antenna Tube, slide the
Antenna Tube down and push it firmly into the Antenna Mounting
Post on the main Chassis.
‰ 7. Fold the wire down over the Antenna Tube and place the Antenna Cap (158) over the tube and excess wire.
‰ 8. Plug the speed control wire into the channel 2 slot on the receiver, then plug the wire from the servo into the channel 1 slot.
Step F-10
158
157
19
Figure 59
Battery Install:
‰ 1.Place two Battery Spacing Foam (152) pieces into the
recessed area in the center of the Chassis (19). One foam should be
positioned back against the rear Shock Tower (55), and the other
forward against the Chassis Brace (147)
155
IMPORTANT NOTE: The Battery Strap can be mounted in
one of two ways. The different offset will accommodate different
styles of batteries. If you will be running matched-type cells, or individual cells laid out side-by-side, the Foam Strip should be attached
on the side with ribs. The foam should be positioned between these
ribs. If, however, you are using a pre-assembled stick pack, the foam
strip should be attached to the side of the strap opposite the ribs.
‰ 2. Remove the Backing Tape from the Battery Strap Foam Strip
(153) and attach it to the bottom side of the Battery Hold Down Strap
(154).
‰ 3. Once the battery pack (not included) is installed, the Battery
Strap (154) will hold the batteries in place. The Battery Strap fits
under the rear "bridge" of the Chassis, between the two ribs on the
bottom, and fits over the post on the front Chassis Brace (147). The
strap is secured to the post with a Body Clip (155).
154
153
152
19
147
155
Figure 60
28
BAG G
Step G-1 Tire Mounting and Install:
31
67
27
140
‰ 1. Inspect the inside of the Tires [front (134), rear (135)] for any excess material. If present, trim excess rubber to ensure proper seating of
the Tire bead on the Wheel [front (136) , rear (137)]. During Tire assembly, make sure that all lettering on the sidewall of the front Tires faces
to the outside of the Wheel. On the rear Tires, there is a directional arrow, please ensure that this arrow is pointing the same direction (with
reference to car from each side) since these tires are directional
*NOTE: Do not set Tires on furniture as they may leave permanent stains.
It is recommended that you dampen a corner of a cloth with some rubbing alcohol and use it to clean off any residue from the bead of the
Tire to ensure a clean gluing surface. Be sure to let the alcohol on the Tire dry before inserting the Foam Insert into the Tire.
‰ 2. Insert a Foam Liner (139) into the two front Tires. Pull the front Tires over the front Wheels and squeeze the Tires to properly seat the
bead into the grooves of the Wheels. Make certain that the Foam Liners are not pinched between the Tires and the Wheels.
‰ 3. Insert a Foam Tire Liner into the two rear Tires. Pull the rear Tires over the rear Wheels and squeeze the Tires to properly seat the bead
into the grooves of the Wheels. Make certain that the Foam Liners are not pinched between the Tires and the Wheels.
Team Losi Tire Glue (A-7880 "Thick", A-7881 "Thin") is the best Glue available for gluing R/C car Tires. This Glue was produced
specifically for this purpose. The Team Losi (A-7884) off-road Tire Gluing kit is also available to get the job done right. It includes a bottle
of glue, an applicator tube, and a ten rubber bands. The rubber bands will be used to properly seat and hold the Tire bead into the Wheel
while gluing.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Allow the Glue to dry thoroughly before continuing. Read and follow adhesive manufacturers' safety warnings regarding use.
‰ 4. The tires now need to be glued to the wheels. This can be done by using a fast-curing super glue or cyanoacrylate glue, available at your
local hobby shop. Install a Tire gluing rubber band around the outside of the Tire, in line with the bead to hold it onto the Wheel. Now slightly
pull back the tire bead from the Wheel and apply a thin bead of glue between the Tire bead and the Wheel all the way around, wait for this side
to dry and do the same to the other side until the Tire is firmly adhered to the Wheel. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly before continuing.
‰ 5. Install a 3/16" x 3/8" Bearing (27) into the backside of the front Wheel (Teflon seal facing out). Insert a Bearing Spacer (67) into the
Wheel from the front side. Capture the Spacer with a second Bearing (Teflon seal facing out as well).
‰ 6. Install the front Wheels by sliding the front Wheel with Bearings over the front Axle (30) as shown in Figure 61. Place a 3/16" x 3/8"
x 0.015" Shim (31) over the Axle against the outside Bearing. Secure the Wheel by threading a 10-32 Locknut (140) onto the Axle and
Tightening.
‰ 7. Mount the rear Wheels to the rear Axles (62) by lining up the Roll Pin (69) in the rear Axle with the groove in the rear Wheel and
pushing the Wheel all the way onto the Axle, making sure the Roll Pin is lined up with the slot on the Wheel.
‰ 8. Secure the rear Wheels by threading the 10-32 Locknuts on to the Rear Axles and tightening.
30
135
62
27
134
139
69
137
67
136
Figure 61
140
31
29
BAG G (Contin
ued)
(Continued)
Painting the Body and Wing
BODY AND WING PAINTING
Prepare the Lexan Body and Wing for painting by washing them thoroughly (inside and out) with warm water and liquid detergent. Dry both
the Body and Wing with a clean, soft cloth. Use the Window Masks (161) supplied to cover the windows from the inside. A high-quality
masking tape should be used on the inside of the Body to mask off any stripes, panels, or designs that you wish to paint on the Body or Wing.
Use acrylic lacquer, acrylic enamel, or any other paints recommended for Lexan (polycarbonate). Apply paint to the inside of the Body and to
the side of the wing shown in Figure 63A. Remove the tape for the next color and continue. Try to use darker colors first. If you use a dark color
after a light color, apply a coat of white over the lighter color before applying the darker color. This will help prevent the darker color from
bleeding through the lighter color.
STICKERS
Apply the stickers after the mounting of the Body and Wing is complete. Cut the stickers from the Sticker Sheet (162) that you wish to apply
to the Body or Wing. Before removing the protective backing, find the desired location. Remove the backing completely and reattach an edge
of the sticker to the shiny side of the backing material. Using the rest of the backing material as a handle, position the sticker and press firmly
into place to complete its application.
Step G-2
Body Trim and Install:
159
‰ 1. After Painting, trim the Body (159) along the trim lines (as
shown in Figure 62, emphasized by the dark shading), there is an
indented trim line around the body which can be used as a guide for
trimming.
‰ 2. Make five 1/4"-diameter holes at the locations marked with
dimples. There are two on the front hood, two on the back bed, and
one on the roof. These will be the body mounting and Antenna Tube
holes.
Figure 62
Step G-3
Rear Wing Install:
Figure 63A
155
160
‰ 1. Trim the rear Spoiler (160) along the trim lines as shown in
159
Figure 63A.
‰ 2. Cut a piece of Two Sided Tape (156) approximately 3/8" wide.
‰ 3. Apply the Two Sided Tape along the bottom, on the back side
of the rear Spoiler. Remove the backing from the Tape and affix the
Spoiler to the Rear of the Body (159) as shown in Figure 63B.
‰ 4. Install the assembled Body onto the Chassis and secure it with
four Body Clips (155) through the posts on the rear Shock Tower
(55), and through the Body Mounts (151) on the front Shock Tower.
Figure 63B
30
FINAL CHECKLIST
BEFORE RUNNING YOUR NEW XXX-T MF2 for the first time, you should run down the following checklist in order and
complete the listed tasks. I'm sure you're anxious to get out and run your new XXX-T MF2 now that it's built, but following this
simple checklist will help to make your first run with your new car much more enjoyable.
1. Adjust the differential
See: About The Differential, in the tips section.
2. Adjust the slipper
See: Adjusting The Slipper, in the tips section.
3. Check for free suspension movement
All suspension arms should move freely. Any binds will
cause the car to handle poorly. The steering should also
operate very freely.
4. Set the ride height
You should start with the rear ride height where the truck
comes to a rest at a height where the dogbones are slightly
below level with the surface. The front ride height should
be set so that the bottom of the chassis is level with the
surface.
5. Adjust the camber
Both front and rear tires should have 1/2 degree of negative camber (top of the tire leans in). It is critical that
both front and both rear tires be adjusted the same. With
either end of the car closest to you, use your assembly
wrench to adjust the tierods. Turn the top of the wrench
towards the center of the car to shorten the tierods, and
the opposite direction to lengthen them.
6. Set the front toe-in
Adjust the front tie rods so that, when the steering is
straight on the transmitter, the front tires are both pointing straight. It is recommended that you start with the
front toe-in set to zero (no toe-in or toe-out).
7. Charge a battery pack
Charge a battery pack as per battery manufacturer's and/
or charger manufacturer's instructions so that
radio adjustments can be made.
8. Adjust the speed control
Following the manufacturer's instructions, adjust your
speed control, and set the throttle trim on your transmitter so the the car does not creep forward when not applying throttle. Make sure that there is not too much brake
being applied when the trigger/stick is in the neutral position.
9. Set transmitter steering trim
The steering trim tab on the transmitter should be adjusted so that the car rolls straight when you are not touching the steering wheel/stick. If the servo was installed
correctly, as per Tables 52A and 52B, the wheels should
turn equally to the left and right. If this is not the case,
refer to Figure 55 A,B,C, and ensure that the steering
servo and rod were properly installed.
TIPS AND HINTS FROM THE TEAM
About The Differential Never allow the diff to slip; that’s what the slipper is for. Before trying to adjust your diff, you need to
tighten the slipper until the spring is fully compressed. Next, hold the spur gear and right rear tire, then try turning the left rear
tire forward or backwards. It should be very difficult to turn the left rear tire. If the tire turns easily, the diff is too loose. To
tighten the diff, line up the slot in the diff screw with the groove in the left outdrive. Place the 1/16” Allen wrench through both
of these slots. This will lock the diff screw and the outdrive together. While holding the Allen wrench in place, turn the right rear
tire forward about 1/8 of a turn. Check the differential adjustment again and repeat the tightening process as necessary until the
differential is no longer slipping. See "Adjusting the Slipper" on the following page, and then continue from here. The final
differential adjustment check should be made by placing the car on carpet, grass, or asphalt and punching the throttle. The
differential should not slip (slipping produces a "barking" sound). If it does, tighten the diff in 1/8-turn increments as described
above until the slippage stops.
Once the diff has been adjusted, it should still operate freely and feel smooth. If the diff screw starts to get tight before the
diff is close to being adjusted properly, the diff should be disassembled and inspected; you may have a problem with the differential assembly. Refer to the assembly instructions to ensure that the diff is properly assembled and that all parts are properly
seated in the assembly.
There are a few things you should know about differentials. First, when rebuilding your diff, you should always replace the
small, diff nut. Second, after the diff has been run a time or two, it is not uncommon for the balls to seat into the rings and create
a slightly loose adjustment. So, after your first and second runs, check the adjustment to avoid slippage. Third, remember: Never
let the diff slip. Doing so can damage the diff balls, rings, and gear. Always make sure that the slipper will slip before the diff.
31
Adjusting the Slipper should be done after the diff is properly adjusted. If you have just finished adjusting the differential,
loosen the slipper adjustment nut four full turns (e.g., 360 degrees x 4) to return the adjustment to the setting originally described
in the assembly instructions. To make the final adjustments, place your truck on the racing surface and give the truck full throttle.
The slipper should slip for one or two feet. If the slipper slips for more than two feet, you’ll need to tighten the adjustment nut.
If the slipper doesn’t slip for at least one foot, back off the adjustment nut 1/8 of a turn and retry. If you can’t hear the slipper
when you punch the throttle, hold the front of the truck with the rear wheels still on the track and give the truck full throttle. The
truck should push against your hand with reasonable force and the slipper only slipping slightly. Don't expect the slipper to make
up for poor driving or set-up. You still have to use the throttle and maintain the shocks and chassis. The slipper will help you
drive more comfortably and help accelerate of corners and land jumps.
The Most Sensitive Adjustments, and the most used by the Team Losi race team, are the number of washers under the front
camber link ball studs and the anti-squat. See these two sections and try to familiarize yourself with the way that these adjustments affect the handling of the XXX-T MF2.
Ride Height is an adjustment that affects the way your truck jumps, turns, and goes through bumps. To check the ride height,
drop one end (front or rear) of the truck from about a 5-6 inch height onto a flat surface. Once the car settles in to a position,
check the height of that end of the car in relationship to the surface. To raise the ride height, lower the shock adjuster nuts on the
shocks evenly on the end (front or rear) of the truck you are working on. To lower the ride height, raise the shock adjuster nuts.
Both left and right nuts should be adjusted evenly.
You should start with the rear ride height where the truck comes to a rest at a height where the dogbones are slightly below
level with the surface. The front ride height should be set so that the bottom of the chassis is level with the surface. Occasionally,
you may want to raise the front ride height to get a little quicker steering reaction, but be careful as this can also make the car flip
over more easily. Every driver likes a little different feel so you should try small ride height adjustments to obtain the feel you
like. We have found that ride height is really a minor adjustment. This should be one of the last adjustments after everything else
has been dialed in. Do not use ride height adjustment as a substitute for a spring rate. If your truck needs a softer or firmer spring,
change the spring. Do not think that simply moving the shock nuts will change the stiffness of the spring; it will not!
Rear Hub Camber Location is best set according to the settings described in this manual. You should start with the inner hole
in the top of the hub (hole "A"). As you move out on the hub, it will tend to make the truck feel a bit stiffer. This results in the
truck accelerating straighter and also makes it a bit easier to line up for jumps. Running the inner hole will typically make the
truck go through bumps better. The inner hole may also give the feeling of more steering. This steering generally comes from the
rear end though. What this means is that the rear end of the truck may swing a bit more — at times even sliding more.
Rear Camber Link Length can be another useful adjustment. It is virtually impossible to make a blanket statement for exactly
how the length of the camber link will affect the handling under all conditions. The following is our experience with how the
length of the camber link will typically affect the handling of the XXX-T MF2. A longer rear camber link will usually result in
more rear traction. With a longer link, the truck can start to drive more square, or point-to-point. This can make it difficult to
carve corners at high speed. A shorter rear camber link will generally result in more steering from the rear of the car due to
increased chassis roll. This can make it easier to change directions quicker, but can cause the rear of the truck to roll around if the
link is too short. A shorter rear link will usually go through bumps a bit better than a long link as well.
Front Carrier Camber Location is another adjustment that is almost always run in the middle location. This location keeps the
truck flatter with less roll. The outside location also helps the truck stay tighter in turns with a more precise steering feel. Moving
the link to the inner hole will make the steering react slightly slower. The advantage to the inner hole is that it can increase onpower steering and help the truck get through bumps better.
Washers Under the Front Camber Link Ball Stud can be added or removed. This is one of the most important adjustments on
the XXX-T MF2 Truck. You should get a feel for how the number of washers affects the handling. Adding washers will make the
truck more stable and keep the front end flatter. Removing washers will make the steering more aggressive. This can be good in
some conditions, but can also make the truck difficult to drive in others. The best all-around adjustment is with two washers as
per the assembly instructions.
Front Camber Link Length is another adjustment that is difficult to make a generic statement for as it can have slightly
different results on various conditions. The following is a summary of how this adjustment will usually impact the handling of
the XXX-T MF2. A longer front camber link will usually make the truck feel stiffer. This will help keep the truck flatter with less
roll, but can make the truck handle worse in bumpy conditions. A shorter front camber link will result in more front end roll. This
32
will increase high-speed steering and make the truck better in bumps. Too short of a front link may make the truck feel twitchy or
"wandery" meaning that it may be difficult to drive straight at high speed.
Front Shock Location can be adjusted easily by simply moving top of the shock to another hole in the shock tower. The standard
location (second hole out in the tower) works best on most tracks. Moving the top of the shock out one hole will result in an
increase in steering and the truck will react quicker. Moving the top of the shock to the inside hole in the tower will slow the
steering response time and make the truck smoother in bumps.
The bottom of the shock can also be moved in or out on the suspension arm. Moving the bottom of the shocks to the
inside hole in the arm will result in more low-speed steering and less high-speed steering. Mounting the shocks in the inside hole
will require limiters in the shocks to limit the travel, and the springs should be changed to stiffer ones. Moving the bottom of the
shocks to the outside hole will reduce overall travel, increase high-speed steering, and reduce low-speed steering. This position
may be good for oval tracks and high-traction surfaces.
Rear Shock Location can be changed just as easily as the front. Again, the standard location is the best place to start for most
tracks. Moving the top of the shock in on the shock tower results in less side-bite (traction in corners) but makes the truck
smoother in bumps. Sometimes a stiffer spring is used in combination with the inside holes inthe tower. Moving the top of the
shocks to the outside hole will give the truck more forward traction and side bite as well as keeping the truck from bottoming out
on big jumps. A softer spring should be used if the shocks are mounted in the outer hole in the tower.
Moving the bottom of the rear shocks to the outside hole in the arm will improve stability but may not handle bumps as
well. You may also notice that the truck is faster in the turns. The downside is that the truck will not straighten out or "square up"
as well. Moving the shocks to the inside hole will increase forward traction and be more stable in bumps. At times a stiffer spring
or a sway bar (LOSA4142) may be needed when moving the shock in on the arm.
Rear Anti-Squat is one of the most commonly used adjustments of the XXX-T MF2. As per assembly instructions, there is 2
degrees of antisquat. Removing one shim will result in 1 degree of anti-squat. Less anti-squat will have more side bite and less
forward traction. Less anti-squat will also cause the car not to jump as high off of large jumps. Removing all shims will result in
0 degrees of anti-squat, this will increase the affects felt when moving from 2 to 1 degree.
Rear Hub Spacing can be adjusted by moving the spacers at the front and rear of the hub carrier. You will probably find that the
middle (standard) location works best on just about every track. Spacing the hub back will give you less forward traction and
more on power steering. This will help on large high speed flowing tracks where corner speed is immensely needed. Moving the
hubs forward will increase forward traction and help the truck initiate corner entry. This can be good on tight dusty track
conditions.
Battery Location is sometimes overlooked, but can be a useful adjustment. Start by running the battery spaced in the middle.
Moving the battery back can improve rear traction on slippery tracks. Moving the battery back too far can cause the rear end to
swing though turns on some tracks. This is a result of having the weight too far back. Moving the battery forward will give the
truck less forward traction, but it will gain on power steering. Moving the battery forward should also smooth out the steering a
little. This may be good on high bite tracks.
Arm Length Adjustment (VLA), the XXX-T MF2 is like having four trucks in one. With the addition of a longer rear arm
position and a shorter front arm position you can have many different setups to suit your driving and handling needs. The kit
setup comes with the long rear arm position and a standard length front arm position. The new hole on the front arm is actually
the inner hole (shorter arm). We have done many hours of testing and found that the kit setup is the best all-around setup for
most tracks.
Shortening the front arm length will give you less steering, and the truck will drive much smoother. This can be good on
tracks where the front of the truck feels twitchy, such as high-bite; blue-groove tracks. One thing to keep in mind is; as you
shorten the front arm, you are actually making the camber link longer in relation to the front arm. Knowing this, you may want
to shorten the front camber link when using the short arm location. The longer front arm setting (stock setup) will have more allaround steering, which is key on tracks where front grip is important.
Shortening the rear arm length will give you more forward traction and the truck will have a more aggressive feel. This
can be good on dusty; low-bite conditions. Like the front arm lengths, as you shorten the rear arm, you will want to keep in mind
the relation of the rear camber link length to that of the arm. You may be able to attain a more balanced feel by changing camber
link positions. The longer rear arm (stock setup) setting will give you less forward traction and more side bite. This will be good
on large sweeping tracks, where corner speed is so important.
We are sure that you will find the XXX-T MF2 to be the most versatile and easiest truck to drive fast with great consistency. We at Team Losi hope this information helps you to enjoy your XXX-T MF2 and racing as much as we do. For the latest in
setup and accessory parts information, visit the Team Losi website at: www.TeamLosi.com
33
KEY #
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
KIT/PART DESCRIPTION
PART NO.
SPARE PARTS DESCRIPTION
SERVO SAVER BOTTOM
SERVO SAVER POST
SERVO SAVER TOP
SERVO SAVER SPRING
SERVO SAVER SPRING CAP
6-40 LOCKNUT
4-40 MINI-LOCKNUT
STEERING IDLER ARM
BALL STUD WASHER
1/4" BALL STUD
3/16" BALL STUD
STEERING DRAGLINK
3/32" x 3/16" BEARING
FRONT KICKPLATE
STEERING BRACE
STEERING HINGE PIN
4-40 x 3/8" CAP HEAD SCREW
THREADED CHASSIS INSERT
MAIN CHASSIS
FRONT BULKHEAD
THREAD LOCK
SHORT NECK BALL STUD
4-40 x 7/8" CAP HEAD SCREWS
SHOCK TOWER, FRONT
4-40 PLAIN NUT
3/8" BALL STUD
SEALED BEARING, 3/16" x 3/8"
SPINDLE, LEFT
SPINDLE, RIGHT
FRONT AXLE
FRONT AXLE SHIM
SET SCREW, 5-40 X 1/8"
SPINDLE CARRIER, LEFT
SPINDLE CARRIER, RIGHT
HINGE PIN, FRONT OUTER
SPACER, SPINDLE
REAR PIVOT, ALUMINUM
SUSPENSION ARM, FRONT
PIVOT BLOCK, FRONT
HINGE PIN, FRONT INNER
E-clip, 1/8"
HINGE PIN BRACE, FRONT
FRONT BUMPER
4-40 x 1/2" FLAT HEAD SCREW
LONG BALL CUP
2-3/8" TITANIUM TURNBUCKLE
FOAM THING
ANTI-SQUAT SHIM
PIVOT BLOCK, INNER REAR
REAR ARM, RIGHT
REAR ARM, LEFT
1/8" x 2-1/8" HINGE PIN
PIVOT PLATE, REAR
4-40 x 3/8" FLAT HEAD SCREW
SHOCK TOWER, REAR
4-40 x 3/32" SET SCREW
4-40 x 1/2" CAP HEAD SCREW
LOSA1620
LOSA1610
LOSA1620
LOSA1610
LOSA1620
LOSA1610
LOSA6306
LOSA1620
LOSA6215
LOSA6006
LOSA6001
LOSA1620
LOSA6912
LOSA9713
LOSA9713
LOSA1146
LOSA6206
LOSA6265
LOSA9906
LOSA9713
N/A
LOSA6007
LOSA6216
LOSA9722
LOSA6300
LOSA6000
LOSA6903
LOSA1126
LOSA1126
LOSA1025
LOSA6230
LOSA6228
LOSA1126
LOSA1126
LOSA6086
LOSA2216
LOSA4128
LOSA9712
LOSA4129
LOSA6089
LOSA6100
LOSA9956
LOSA4131
LOSA6220
LOSA6015
N/A
LOSA6003
LOSA4127
LOSA4127
LOSA9812
LOSA9812
LOSA6049
LOSA9833
LOSA6210
LOSA9822
LOSA6249
LOSA6204
Steering/Servo Mount Assembly (Molded)
Steering Hardware Set
Steering/Servo Mount Assembly (Molded)
Steering Hardware Set
Steering/Servo Mount Assembly (Molded)
Steering Hardware Set
4-40 Aluminum Mini Nuts (10)
Steering/Servo Mount Assembly (Molded)
#4 Narrow Washers (10)
Ball Studs w/Rod Ends 4-40 x 1/4" (4)
Ball Studs w/Rod Ends 4-40 x 3/16" (4)
Steering/Servo Mount Assembly (Molded)
3/32" x 3/16" Ball Bearings
Front Kickplate, Bulkhead, and Steering - Graphite
Front Kickplate, Bulkhead, and Steering - Graphite
Front Outer & King Pins 3/32" x .960"
4-40 x 3/8" Cap-Head screws (10)
Threaded Chassis Inserts - Short
Main Chassis and Brace - Graphite
Front Kickplate, Bulkhead, and Steering Brace
34
Studded Balls w/Ends (Short Neck) 0.38"
4-40 x 7/8" Cap-Head Screws (10)
Graphite Front Shock Tower
4-40 Hex Nuts (10)
Ball Studs w/Rod Ends 4-40 x 3/8" (4)
3/16" x 3/8" Teflon™-Sealed Bearings (2)
Spindles & Carriers - VLA
Spindles & Carriers - VLA
Truck Front Axles, GenII
Shim Set, 3/16", 1/4", 1/2"
Hardned Set Screws, 5-40 x 1/8" (10)
Spindles & Carriers - VLA
Spindles & Carriers - VLA
Hinge Pins, 1/8" x .960", Ti-Nitride
Spacers (1/8" x .050")
Pivot Mount, Rear, Aluminum
Graphite Front Suspension Arms - VLA
Pivot Block Front
Hinge Pin 1/8" x 1.42", Ti-Nitride
1/8" E-Clips
Alum. Front Hinge Pin Brace - Hard Anodized
Front Skidplate/Bumper - Black
4-40 x 1/2" Flat-Head Screws (6)
Super-Duty Rod Ends (12)
Foam Things (Linkage Rings) (24)
Pivot Mount and Shims, Forward Rear
Pivot Mount and Shims, Forward Rear
Graphite Rear Suspension Arms - VLA
Graphite Rear Suspension Arms - VLA
Inner Rear Hinge Pins, Ti-Nitride
Rear Pivot Plate - Graphite
4-40 x 3/8" Flat-Head Screws (10)
Rear Shock Tower - Graphite
4-40 X 3/32" SET SCREW
4-40 x 1/2" Cap-Head Screws (10)
KEY #
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
115
KIT/PART DESCRIPTION
PART NO.
SPARE PARTS DESCRIPTION
#4 WASHER
DOGBONE
U-JOINT CROSS BALL
SOLID U-JOINT PIN
REAR AXLE
U-JOINT YOKE
ASSEMBLY WRENCH
HUB CARRIER, RIGHT REAR
HUB CARRIER, LEFT REAR
BEARING SPACER, FRONT/REAR
SPACER, REAR AXLE
DRIVE PIN, REAR AXLE
SPACER, REAR HUB
HINGE PIN, FRONT KING/REAR OUTER
2-3/4" TITANIUM TURNBUCKLE
DIFF NUT CARRIER
5/64" ALLEN WRENCH
BELEVILLE WASHER
DIFF SPRING
MALE OUTDRIVE HALF
DIFF GREASE (CLEAR)
DIFF RING
5mm x 8mm BEARING
DIFF GEAR
3/32" CARBIDE DIFF BALLS
FEMALE OUTDRIVE HALF
DIFF ADJUSTING SCREW
FOAM THRUST BEARING SEAL
3mm x 8mm THRUST BEARING WASHER
WHITE THRUST / ASSEMBLY GREASE
5/64" THRUST BEARING BALLS
4-40 x 7/8" FLAT HEAD SCREW
TOP SHAFT
4-40 x 5/16" BUTTON HEAD SCREW
1/16" ALLEN WRENCH
LEFT GEARBOX HALF
1/2" x 3/4" BEARING
MOTOR PLATE
RIGHT GEARBOX HALF
IDLER GEAR SHAFT
TOP SHAFT SPACER
1/8" x 3/8" BEARING
IDLER GEAR
2-56 x 3/8" CAP HEAD SCREW
4-40 x 1" CAP HEAD SCREW
SLIPPER BACK PLATE
SLIPPER PAD
86 TOOTH SPUR GEAR
SLIPPER SPACER
SLIPPER SPRING
SPRING RETAINING WASHER
4-40 LOCKNUT
MOTOR GUARD
4-40 x 1-1/2" CAP HEAD SCREW
SHOCK O-RING
SHOCK CARTRIDGE BODY
SHOCK CARTRIDGE SPACER
LOSA6350
LOSA3091
LOSA3027
LOSA6407
LOSA3031
LOSA3083
LOSA6030
LOSA2123
LOSA2123
LOSA9942
LOSA9942
LOSA6401
LOSA2127
LOSA6088
N/A
LOSA2911
N/A
LOSA2933
LOSA2933
LOSA2935
LOSA3065
LOSA3070
LOSA6907
LOSA3074
LOSA6951
LOSA2935
LOSA2933
LOSA2933
LOSA3099
LOSA3066
LOSA3099
LOSA6226
LOSA9932
LOSA6245
N/A
LOSA2938
LOSA6908
LOSA2941
LOSA2938
LOSA2937
LOSA2938
LOSA6909
LOSA2937
LOSA2940
LOSA6223
LOSA3132
LOSA3123
LOSA3987
LOSA3124
LOSA3124
LOSA3124
LOSA6305
LOSA4121
LOSA2940
LOSA5014
LOSA5015
LOSA5015
#4 and 1/8" Hardened Washers
Dogbone/Driveshaft - GenII - T
Universal Bearing Cross, Reubildable
U-Joint Pins (solid) 2.5mm x 12mm
OFFSET REAR AXLE, .100, XXX2
Yoke and Screw for Dogbone
Assembly Wrench (version 2)
Rear Hubs - VLA - 3 Hole
Rear Hubs - VLA - 3 Hole
Bearing Spacer/Wheel Washer Set
Bearing Spacer/Wheel Washer Set
Pins — Wheels and Gears
Rear Hub Spacers (1/8" x .060")
Hinge Pins, 1/8" x 1.246", Ti-Nitride
35
One-Piece Diff Nut/Carrier
Differential Screw, Hardware, and Seal
Differential Screw, Hardware, and Seal
Outdrive Cup/Diff Set
Silicone Differential Compound
Transmission Drive Rings (2)
5mm x 8mm Bearings
Transmission Diff Gear, 46 Teeth
3/32" Carbide Diff Balls (12)
Outdrive Cup/Diff Set
Differential Screw, Hardware, and Seal
Differential Screw, Hardware, and Seal
Full Compliment Thrust Bearing Set
Assembly Grease
Full Compliment Thrust Bearing Set
4-40 x 7/8" Flat-Head Screws (10)
Alum. Gear /Slipper Shaft, 18 Teeth
4-40 x 5/16 Button Head Screws (10)
Transmission Case Set and Spacer (Gen II)
1/2" x 3/4" Ball Bearings w/Teflon Seal (2)
Lightened Motor Plate - Black Anodize
Transmission Case Set and Spacer (Gen II)
Idler Gear, 32 Teeth, and Shaft
Transmission Case Set and Spacer (Gen II)
1/8" x 3/8" Ball Bearings (2)
Idler Gear, 32 Teeth, and Shaft
Transmission Screw Set (Gen II)
Transmission Screw Set (Gen II)
Slipper Backing Plate
Slipper Pad
86T 48-Pitch Kevlar® Spur Gear
Slipper Spring, Cup, Spacer, Bushing, and Washer
Slipper Spring, Cup, Spacer, Bushing, and Washer
Slipper Spring, Cup, Spacer, Bushing, and Washer
4-40 Aluminum Locknuts, Low Profile (6)
Motor Guard, & Body Mnts. - Black
Transmission Screw Set (Gen II)
O-Rings for Shock Cartridge (8)
Double O-Ring Shock Cartridge
Double O-Ring Shock Cartridge
KEY #
116
118
119
120
121
122
123
125
126
127
128
129
130
131
132
133
134
135
136
137
138
139
140
141
142
143
144
145
146
147
148
149
150
151
152
153
154
155
156
157
158
159
160
161
162
KIT/PART DESCRIPTION
PART NO.
SPARE PARTS DESCRIPTION
CAP, SHOCK CARTRIDGE
SHOCK SHAFT, FRONT
SHOCK SHAFT, REAR
SHOCK END
BATTERY INSULATING TAPE
1/4 " SHOCK MOUNT BALL
SHOCK PISTON
SHOCK BODY, FRONT
SHOCK BODY, REAR
SHOCK FLUID
SHOCK SPRING CUP
A-SPACER
SHOCK ADJUSTING NUT ALUMINUM
SHOCK SPRING, FRONT/REAR
SHOCK MOUNT BUSHING, SHORT
SHOCK MOUNT BUSHING, LONG
TIRE, FRONT
TIRE, REAR
FRONT WHEEL
REAR WHEEL
O-RING, SHOCK NUT
FOAM TIRE LINER
10-32 LOCKNUT
3mm x 6mm BUTTON HEAD SCREW
GEAR COVER
4-40 x 1/8" BUTTON HEAD SCREW
GEAR COVER PLUG
SERVO ARM
SERVO MOUNTING POST
CHASSIS BRACE
SHORT PLASTIC ROD END
4-40 x 5/8" SET SCREW
4-40 x 5/8" FLAT HEAD SCREW
BODY MOUNT, FRONT
BATTERY SPACING FOAM
BATTERY STRAP FOAM STRIP
BATTERY STRAP
BODY CLIP
TWO-SIDED TAPE
ANTENNA TUBE
ANTENNA CAP
BODY
SPOILER
WINDOW MASK
STICKER SHEET
LOSA5015
LOSA5064
LOSA5062
LOSA5079
LOSA9606
LOSA9940
LOSA5046
LOSA5055
LOSA5056
LOSA5224
LOSA5079
LOSA5015
LOSA5049
LOSA5152
LOSA5013
LOSA5013
LOSA7507R
LOSA7637R
LOSA7055
LOSA7155
LOSA5049
LOSA7698
LOSA6303
LOSA6238
LOSA6039
LOSA6212
LOSA3045
LOSA1620
LOSA1620
LOSA9906
LOSA1615
LOSA1615
LOSA6233
LOSA4118
LOSA4015
LOSA9911
LOSA9911
LOSA8200
LOSA4004
LOSA4002
LOSA4003
LOSA8028
LOSA8028
LOSA8028
LOSA8356
Double O-Ring Shock Cartridge
1.0" Titanium Nitrided Shock Shaft
1.2" Titanium Nitrided Shock Shaft
Shock Ends & Cups (2)
Battery Box Insulation (Diecut)
Aluminum H.A. Suspension Balls .250" (4)
Teflon Shock Pistons #56 (Red)
.9" Threaded Shock Body Set w/Nuts
1.2" Threaded Shock Body Set w/Nuts
Team Losi Certified Shock Fluid 30wt
Shock Ends & Cups (2)
Double O-Ring Shock Cartridge
Threaded Shock Body Adjuster Nuts w/O-rings (4)
2.5" Spring 2.6 Rate (Red)
Front and Rear Upper Shock Mount Bushings
Front and Rear Upper Shock Mount Bushings
Front 8-Rib Truck Tires w/Foam (Red)
King Pin Truck Rear w/Foam (Red)
Front Solid-Face Truck Wheels -Yellow
Rear Solid-Face Truck Wheels - Yellow
Aluminum Shock Adjusting Nut (4)
Truck Foam Liners - Firm
10-32 Low Profile Aluminum Locknuts (8)
3mm x 6mm Motor Screw Kit
Gear Cover with Access Plug (Gen II)
4-40 x 1/8" Button-Head Screws (4)
Slipper Gear Cover Plug (4)
Steering/Servo Mount Assembly (Molded)
Steering/Servo Mount Assembly (Molded)
Main Chassis and Brace - Graphite
30 Degree Rod Ends - Black (16)
Short Ball Cups and Threaded Rod
4-40 x 5/8" Flat-Head Screws (10)
Front Bumper, Motor Guard, & Body Mnts. - Black
Battery Strap, Pad, and Foam Block - Graphite
Battery Strap, Pad, and Foam Block - Graphite
Battery Strap, Pad, and Foam Block - Graphite
Body Clips (12)
Servo Tape (6)
Antenna Kit
Antenna Caps (8)
MF2 Body and Spoiler
MF2 Spoiler
MF2 Body and Spoiler
XXX-T MF2 Francis Edition Sticker Sheet
36
Photo by Jason Sams