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• THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING OUR OVERLOCKING MACHINE
This overlocking machine can stitch dependable seams
on all kinds of fabric, both light and heavy,
including cotton, wool, rayon, tricot, jersey, and knits.
You do not need a special table for this portable machine. It will
do professional work as blouses, skirts,
shirts, slacks, coats and trimming handkerchiefs, towels, tableclothes,
and so on.
We suggest that you read this instruction manual carefully before you
start to operate the machine.
• FOR YOUR SAFETY
1. Keep your eyes on the needles when operating the sewing machin
e. Do not touch the hand wheel, the knife
or the needles when the machine is running.
2. Make sure to turn the power switch to ‘off” and pull out the plug from
electric socket in the following cases:
* When you have finished your sewing.
* When you leave the sewing machine temporarily.
* When replacing any parts.
* When clanirg and adjusting the machine.
• BEFORE YOU USE
1. Wipe dust and oil off the sewing machine to avoid any stains on the
sewing materials.
2. Do trial sewing by using the same sewing materials you intend
to sew before you commence.
3. Read this instruction manual thoroughly before replacing the knives and
the needles. Follow the instruc
tions for correct replacements and adjustments.
4. This machine has a maximum speed of 1,400s.p.m.The motor and
handwheel turn the same direction as the
household sewing machine.
• SPECIFICATION
Description
Specification
Number of thread
Number of needle
Sewing speed
2
Up to 1400 s.p.m
Stitch width
4 thread-—-ómm
4
Stitch length
Differential feed ratio
Lift of presser foot
0.8—2 (DF-type only)
Needle
HAxI No. 11-14 or
1301705H No. 75—90
Dimentions
290(W)x260(L)x275(H)
Weight
1 —4.5mm
4.5mm
6kg (13 Ibs)
6.6kg (15 Ibs) (DF-type)
—1—
MAIN PARIS: NAMES AND FUNCTIONS
Thread guide
Thread reel bar
Upper thread tension dial
Upper
Thread guide plate
Front panel
lower thread tension dial
)lower looper)
Lower thread tension dial
)Upper looper)
Built in light
Upper knife holder
Hand wheel
Throat plate
Cloth plate
Front cover
lower
—2—
.
4
JflhI1
Accessory box
Oiler
Brush
Tweezers
Needles (3pcs)
(HAxI#14)
Hexagon wrench
Cone holder (4pcs)
Chip box
Machine cover
• Roll edge throat plate
(For 4 thread)
• Roll edge throat plate
(For 3 thread)
• Threader
Screwdriver
Thread spool holder caps
(4pcs)
• Corrying case
•
Elastic foot
• These accessories are not sup
plied with machines. They are
however available as special ac
cessories from your local dealer.
• Hemming foot
•
Beading foot
• Video tape
—3—
SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE
• Connecting the foot control
Connect the foot Control plug to the machine socket as shown below, and then connect the main plug to the
main socket.
lI
Main socket
Foot controll
• Power/lamp switch
• Foot control
Place your foot on the foot control as shown.
The power switch is located on the lower right side of
As you lightly press on the foot control, the machine will
the machine.
sew slowly and increase in speed with added pressure.
Foot control
Caution:
1. Disconnect the electrical cord from the wall outlet when mchine is not in use or when it is being cleaned.
2. Turn the power switch to the “off” position before changing needles or throat plates, and before
connecting the cord. This will help preventing accidents.
—4—
ritairtiiviipji rein
iniutiini
• Overlock thread
• Thread reel bar
Pull up thread reel bar to its highest point before
It is advisable to use overlock thread for this
threading.
overlock machine.
Thread reel bar
point
Thread reel stand
• For domestic spools
Domestic type thread spools can be used on this machine.
©
Place the domestic spool on the thread reel stand.
(me thread notch on the spool should be at the boffom.)
®
Push the spool holder cap provided, on the spool.
HOW TO ATTACH THE
WASTE CHIP BOX
It catches the cut-off fabric as you sew, for
keeping your working area clean. Place
the waste chip box between the machine
and fable.
Spool holder
cap
‘Domestic spool
Notch
F
—5—
THREADING YOUR MACHINE
Correct threading is important otherwise uneven stitches or thread breakage may result. You will find a threading
illustration when you open the front cover. In addition, each thread guide is colored for threading indication.
To help in threading, threader and tweezers will be found in the accessory bag.
cD Open front cover and cloth plate.
© Raise the needle to its highest point by turning the hand wheel toward you by hand.
© Pass the lower looper thread and upper looper thread as illustrated. Make certain to pass the thread between
two tension discs.
© Pull the tread end about 10cm
(4inches) long from the looper eyes,
place the threads together under the
presser foot.
Helpful hints:
a. Thread loopers before threading needle
b. When threading left looper it may be
more convenient to have your tension
set on “0”. This will allow you to have
enough slack in the thread.
After the machine is threaded
increase the tension
to the appropriate
number.
c. Note that
lower
looper has
slot to
place
thread in
for easy
threading
(-4
See arrow
on close
up picture.
Warning:
“Switch the sewing machine off (“0”) when making
any adjustments in the needle area, such as
threading needle, changing needle, threading
bobbin, or changing presser toot, and the like:’
—6—-
® Pass the right and left needle threads as Illustrate
d below. Make certain to pass the thre
ad between the twc
tension discs.
®
Pull the thread end about 10cm (4incnes) long
from the needle eyes.
© Place the needle threads together under the
presser foot.
® Close front cover and cloth plate when the
threading is finished.
NOTE: To assit thread passing around tension
dials turn all four at o’ setting. Ensure thre
ad
pass through the tension discs and behind
the hook in each case. Then turn each
knob to the desired setting numbers accord
ing to the fabrics (See page 11)
EASY THREAD CHANGING
Instructions for changing threads are give
n
below.
1. Cut the thread near the spools.
2. Exchange the spool with a new one and
tie
end to remaining thread making knot
as
small as possible.
3. Turn Thread Tension Dials to the smal
lest
number.
4. Press Foot Control and run machine
until
upper and lower thread knot comes throu
gh
looper hole.
5. Stop needle thread knot before pas
sing
through eye of needles. Cut thread and
pass through needle eye manually.
—7—
TRIAL SEWING
When the overlock has been threaded for first time or re-threaded because of thread breakage during
sewing, start sewing in the following manner.
D
Place the needle threads and looper threads under
the presser foot.
© Hold the end of threads between your left finger tips,
gently turn the hand wheel toward you two or three
times with your right hand to check that the threads
form the overlock stitch.
© Then place fabric for trial sewing under the presser
foot and start sewing.
® When work is finished, continue running the machine
and move work back slowly so that a chain of thread
5—ócm long is made as shown at left. Cut the
threads with the scissors.
©
—8—
Leave this chain ready to start next sewing.
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS
Thread tension differs with the type of fabric and
the thickness and type of thread. Adjustment of thread
tensions should be mode each time you sew accordingly.
Right needle
tension dial
Adjusts the tension dials using the upper and lower thread
tensions while watching the stitch as illustrated. Thread
tension is tightened by turning clockwise, and loosened by
Left needle thread
tension dial
turning counter clockwise, the applicable tension dial.
Lower looper thread
tension dial
Upper looper thread
tension dial
Proper thread tension
Right needle thread
Lower looper thread
Upper looper thread
—9—
(A)
Lower looper thread tension is too tight.
(B) Upper looper thread tension is too tight.
Tighten the upper looper thread tension dial
Tighten the lower looper thread tension dial
or loosen the lower looper thread tension dial.
or loosen the upper looper thread tension dial.
(D)
(C) Left needle thread tension is too loose.
Righf needle thread tension is too loose.
Tighten the right needle thread tension dial.
Tighten the left needle thread tension dial.
—10—
__________________
CHART FOR TENSION ADJUSTMENT
:
Threads
Fabrics
Needle
Recommended
tension settings
Stitch length
khtwiqht
• Georgeffe
•
Cotton
•
•
Spun
Organdy
polyester
• Lawn
• Voile
2.O—3.5mIm
•
Standard
Polyester
2.51m
• Crepe de chine
‘2
[
2
1 21
I
•Silk
Medium weight
• Cotton
•
Cotton
Standard sewing
• Poplin
•
Spun
machine needle
polyester
Type
• Wool
2.03.5mIm
HAxI (Japan)
Standard
• Gingham
or
25mIm
• Corduroy
130/705H (Europe)
• Linen
•
Polyester
• Suede
131121121
[ji
[jj [_jj [jj
1_
or
15x1 (USA)
• Satin
• Fleece
Hea’ weight
• Denim
•
Cotton
• Tweed
•
Spun
• Velour
• Canvas
• Upholstery
•
2.5—4.OmIm
polyester
Standard
Polyester
3OmIm
2
(T5lI5I
j
2
1
I
I I
L
1
ADJUSTING OVERLOCK STITCH WIDTH
This machine is a two needle, three or four thread convertible overiock machine. Select your stitches accord
ing to what and how you sew:
(a) 3-thread overedge stitch 5mm width. Use only left needle and three threads. Remove the right
needle.
(b) 3-thread overedge stitch 3mm width. Use only the right needle and three threads. Remove the
left needle.
The right or the left needle can be removed simply by loosening the needle set screw.
(a)
(b)
5mm
3mm
‘ksideØ
Front side
,_
ADJUSTING CUTTING WIDTH
The proper cuffing width differs with the type of fabric. Check the seam each time, and adjust the cutting width
as follows.
1. Turn power switch off.
2. Open the front cover and cloth plate.
3. Turn the stitch wiath dial to chose wider or narrow stitch width.
The adjustable range is around 1 mm.
—12—
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
The stitch length of this machine has been PRE-SET to 3mm, as longest stitch.
To adjust to a shorter length, simply turn the length dial to a lower number.
adjustment dial
(OF-type only)
ADJUSTING PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
The presser foot pressure of the machine has beenpre-setand requires no particular
readjustment
according to the iype of fabric (light-or heavyweight).
However, if you need to adjust the presser foot pressure, turn the presser adjusting screw with
a coin.
For sewing very thin fabric, loosen the pressure by turning the screw counter cIockwise and
for heavy fabric,
tighten by turning it clockwise.
—13—
REPLACING THE NEEDLES
s
• Turn the power switch to “off” before setting the needle
• Needle stem Is I301705H (HAxI)
the
Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning
handwheel towards you.
Open the front cover and lower the presser foot.
screws
Using the hexagon wrench to loosen the needle clamp
and remove the needles.
Insert the needle as for as it will go into the needle clamp,
Needle set screws
fiat side of needle facing away from you. Tighten needle
clamp screw with wrench.
for proper
© Make one complete turn of hand wheel to check
Thread groove
clearance.
Needle
type of
• Be sure to use proper size needle for the thread and
may result in
material u are sewing. Using bent or blunt needle
breaking thread or poor stitching.
REPLACING THE LIGHT BULB
from socket-outlet before replacing the
* CAUTION: Disconnect machine from power supply by removing plug
light bulb.
Do not attempt to change the bulb until it is cool.
Do not replace bulb of more than 15 waifs max.
© loosen the light cover screw.
with new bulb.
© Pull out the light cover, remove old bulb by unscrewing. Replace
© Reset the light cover screw.
—14—
__________________________________
_____
_________
REPLACING THE CUTTING BLADE
CAUTION: Be sure to disconnect the power supply by removing plug from socket-outlet before replacing
the cutting blade.
The upper blade might become dull after using a period of time and will need to be replaced.
() RaIse the upper blade arm to Its highest position by
Set screw
Upper blade holder
turning the hand wheel toward you.
® Loosen the upper blade set screw and take off the upper
Upper
lade arm
Upper
Presser
foot
blade
blade.
Replace the new upper blade and tighten the upper
blade set screw tentatively.
Throat plate
® Turn the hand wheel toward you to set the cutting edge of
the upper blade to its lowest position with the lower blade
to overlap between 0.5mm and 1mm, and tighten the
upper blade set screw securely.
Replacing the lower blade
The lower blade (Fixed knife) of machine is made of a
Upper blade
Throat
plate
special material which does not require frequent
replacement. However, should it chip and need to be
replaced, a new one can be purchased from your local
dealer.
blade
Warning:
“Switch the reel overlock machine to off when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as the
threading needles, changing needles, threading loopers, changing needle plate, changing knives, changing
presser foot, and the like.”
BUILTIN POCKET TYPE HANDLE
Built-In pocket type handle Is a convenient way to carry your
Pocket type handle
machIne
—15—
CLEANING AND OILING
it clean and lubricated at all times.
To keep your machine running smoothly, it is necessary to keep
-outlet.
First, disconnect machine from power supply by removing plug from socket
and lint that accumulate around
e
Open both front and side covers. Using the brush provided, remov dust
indicated by arrows.
the whole exposed area, and then apply a few drops of oil to the points
Always use a good quality sewing machine oil.
• Apply one or two drops of oil to each
lubrication point.
(DF-type only)
—16—
SEWING APPLICATIONS
(Start and end of a seam)
• Overcasting the hem of a skirt
Start of stitch
Start of stitch
Cut this section
aWa)’
End of stitch
Overlap the stitch
by about 2cm
Chain-off thread
about 2cm
Overcast the hem edge, keeping the depth of the hem even. When
overcasting the hem on a garment which is shaped, it is
necessary to
first work a line of straight stitches with a normal sewing
machine to
ease in the fullness evenly round the hem.
To overcast, place the fabric at on angle under the
presser foot
and sew into the hem edge position in a curved line. At the
end of the
sewing, overlap the beginning stitches by approx. 2cm and
stitch off
the fabric to leave a chain of threads of about 2cm. This
chain-off
thread at the end of the sewing prevents the stitch from comin
g undone.
Slip these ends into the hem when sewing the hem into positio
n.
• Overcasting a corner
Direction to
feed
Because there is a certain distance between the knife and the needle
,
you should cut away a small piece of the seam allowance at the begin
ning as illustrated so that the fabric con reach the needle
.
When you have finished sewing along one edge, lift the presser
foot, pull the work out to the back of the foot, taking care not to
break the threads.
© Turn the work, lower the presser foot and sew evenly along the
next edge.
•Making a stitched and overcast seam
Since your machine has a knife to cut the edge of the fabric,
you cannot sew with pins inserted as you can do
with a normal domestic zigzag machine. The best way is to baste
the seam before you sew. Alternatively, you
can save time by inserting the pins parallel with the edge and then
stitch two or more pieces of fabric together
without having to remove the pins.
width
Insert the pins at equal
distances of about 5cm
according to the fabric.
®
Insert the pins approx. 1.5—2.0cm apart, parallel to the raw edge
taking into account the width of the presser foot.
—17—.
SEWING APPLICATIONS’
• Application
This machine is suitable for sewing the follo’ing:
One-piece dress (medium-and heavy-weight fabric)
• Blouse (light-weight fabric)
Yoke seam
Shoulder
seam
Shoulder seam
Yoke seam
Sleeve insertion
seam
Underarm seam
Yoke seam
Underarm seam
Facing edge
Waist seam
Facing edge
Side seam
Sleeve insertion
seam
Side seam
Lower edge seam
• How to change presser foot
1. Removing presser foot.
2. Raise the foot, pull the one-touch lever toward you, and the foot will drop off.
3. Putting on presser foot.
4. Center desired presser foot under shank. l.ower presser bar until the groove on the shank connects with
small pin on the toot.
5. Gently push one-touch lever toward needle to release lever.
• How to remove shank
1. Keep the presser bar up, loosen the shank set screw, and the shank will drop off.
2. When you replace the shank, tighten the set screw firmly with a screw driver.
—18—
CHANGING THE THROAT PLATE
WOR ROLLED OR NARROW HEM)
The machine comes with a standard overedge needle throat plate set to the machine.
Change the throat plate when sewing rolled overedges.
Lift the presser foot and release the presser foot.
)
Open the left cover. Turn the cutting width dial to move the knife all the way to the right.
Open the front cover. Loosen the throat plate screw and remove the throat plate. Place the rolled edge
throat plate and tighten the screw.
f
Loosen the left needle set screw and remove the left needle.
) Open the left cover.
Turn the cuffing width adjustment dial to move the lower knife to the left end.
Close the front cover. Replace presser foot.
D Turn the handwheel toward you and set needle to its lowest position.
® Lower the presser foot, make sure that there is no extra space between the bottom of the presser foot and
the throat plate.
*
Delicate adjustments may be necessary in accordance with the type of material. Make trial sewing and
check. Better result is possible by adjusting the position of lower knife.
Rolled hem
throat plate
Standard overedge
throat plate
—19—
HOW TO MAKE NARROW OR ROLLED EDGE
Please make sure power is always off when replacing the parts and making adjustments.
To adjust tensln for rolled and narrow edges refer to table below for suggested combinations of material
dnd thread. Proper thread tension differs with the type of fabric and the thickness and type of thread.
Adjustment of thread tension should be made each time you sew accordingly.
Important: 1. See page 19 for changing throat plate
2. Remove left needle (page 14)
3. The stitch length of rolled hemming should be set between 1. and 2.
Threads
Tension dial to
be adjusted
Fabrics
• Spun polyester
80
No. 50
• Georgette
•
•
—
Polyester continuous
No. 50
80
•
—
• Crepe-de
-chine
• Broad cloth
•
Upper
looper
thread
•
•
Wooly nylon
etc.
Lower
looper
thread
•
Polyester continuous
No.50 —80
Wooly nylon
Spun polyester
80
NO. 50
-
—
-
• Spun Polyester
80
No. 50
Polyester continuous
80
No. 50
-
•
Polyester continuous
80
No. 50
•
Spun polyester
No. 50 80
• Rayon
• Voile
Spun polyester
No. 50
80
Needle
Thread
• Lawn
Narrow hemming
Rolled hemming
—
•
Polyhester continuous
No.50—80
Narrow edge tension settings
Rolled edge tension settings
Narrow hemming
Rolled hemming
—20—
__
DIFFERENTIAL FEED (DF-type only)
The differential feed prevents waving
in seams in knitted fabrics and also
movement between the layer.
of fabric, It also ensures pucker-fre
e seams in smooth fabrics such as
synthetic fabrics.
Differential feed mechanism
There are two feed dogs one front and
one rear. The two feed dogs move
independently arid the
distance each feed dog travels dur
ing one complete movement can
be different.
C__
Differential feed ration I vs. O.8—
2
Adjusting the differential feed
The differential feed can be adjusted
by simply turning the differential feed
adjustment dial in the
direction desired. Stretch 4-step & gath
er 6-step adjustment to the differen
tial feed can be made while
sewing.
Important:
When sewing without differential feed
, the adjustment dial for the differenti
al feed should be set on the
“N” position.
STRETCH
adjustment diat
Stitch length dial
—21—
GATHER
Gathering
For perfectly flat seams in knits, the distance travell
ed by the front feed dog should be greater than
that of the rear feed dog. The front feed dog,
therefore, feeds an amount of fabric which the rear
feed dog can fake up behind the needle without
stretching the fabric and without the slightest hint
of movement between the two layers of fabric.
Stretching
To avoid any puckering in seams on closely woven
fabrics or smooth nylon, the distance travelled by
the rear feed dog must be greater fhan that of the
front feed dog. The front feed dog, therefore, holds
the fabric back so that the rear feed dog can take
it up behind the needle without any puckering or
movement between the two layers of fabric.
Pin tucking
Pin tucking is a useful decorative stitch
for blouses and children’s wear.
1. Fold fabric with wrong sides together.
2. Adjust the plastic guide so that the
stitches just overcast the folded edge.
3. bwer the presser foot and sew.
4. Sew as many rows as desired and
press them to lay flat on one side.
Sewing in tape
sewn in at the
The standard presser toot is equipped with a tape guide. The tape can be
knits or stretch fabrics.
same time to strengthen shoulder or side seams in garments made from
(USE 4—.5 mm WIDTH OF THE TAPE)
Tape guide
—22—
BLIND HEMMING
By changing the presser foot to “Blind Hem Presser Foot”, you can sew
blind stitches with trimming fabric.
It produces a durable hem which is almost invisible on the right side
of the article sewn. It is useful for
sewing cuffs, trouser boffoms, pockets etc.
Se’ning
First sew a test sample on a scrap of fabric and adjust the seam guide and thread tension
.
1. Fold hem up as desired,
fold it back toward right
2. The plastic guide on the
presser foot ensures even
side of the fabric. Leave I
to 2 cm seam allowance to
feeding of the fabric when
blind hemming. This guide
the right.
is adjusted by turning the
screw.
3. Raise the presser foot.
4. With the wrong side up,
place the fabric under the
presser foot so that the
plastic guide is just
touching the folded edge.
5. Adjust the guide so that the
needle pierces just the
folded edge.
6. Lower the presser foot and
sew hem, guiding fabric
evenly along the plastic
guide.
7. When hem is completed,
open the fabric and press
hem.
—23—
CORRECT THREAD TENSION
The upper and lower looper
threads are crossed on the
cut edge of fabric.
PROBLEMS AND CAUSES
• Before calling for service, check the information below.
Cause
Problem
Corrective action
Page
Fabric does not
feed.
The presser foot pressure is too
light.
Turn the presser foot pressure adjusting screw clockwise to increase
the presser foot pressure.
12
Needle breakage.
The needle is bent or the needle
point is blunt.
The needle has been improperly
attached to the needle bar,
You have, forcibly pulled the
fabric,
Replace with a new needle.
14
Attach the needle correctly to the
needle bar.
Lightly put your hand on the edges
of the fabric while you are sewing.
14
Thread the machine correctly.
Decrease the thread tension.
Attach the needle correctly to the
needle bar.
Use correct needle.
6—7
9—li
14
®
®
Thread breakage.
Skipping stitches.
©
®
®
Threading is wrong.
Thread tension is too tight.
The needle has been improperly
attached to the needle bar.
®
©
Wrong needle is used.
The needle is bent or the needle
point is blunt.
Replace with a new needle.
14
©
The needle has been improperly
attached to the needle bar.
The machine has been improperly
threaded.
Wrong needle is used.
Attach the needle correctly to the
needle bar.
Thread the machine correctly.
14
Thread tension is not correct.
Cuffing space too narrow
Adjust thread lension.
Readjust cuffing space width
9—il
13
The needle thread tension is too
tight.
The machine has been improperly
threaded, or a thread has been
caught at some unnecessary point.
Reduce the needle thread tension.
9—li
Re-thread the machine correctly.
6—7
®
Stitches are
irregular.
Fabric is puckering.
®
©
©
©
®
Problem with motor.
©
®
®
The motor produces noises.
The motor will not run at all.
Unusually large sparks are
produced.
Use correct needle.
Consult your dealer
If above corrective actions do not solve your trouble, contact your dealer.
—24—
14
6—7
14