PFAFF 73 Manual

3
CPFAFFD
73
INSTRUCTIONS
th
1111
FOREWORD
:1
Your dream has come true.
You are now the proud owner of a Pfaff
73, the sewing machine which will enable you
to master all ordinary sewing,
ornamental stitching and darning jobs that may
come up in a home.
--
This Instruction book will help you understand
the machine and give you valuable tips to
make sewing more fun for you.
Even if you are an experienced seamstress, you
will find this book a valuable guide to easy
sewing.
Follow these simple instructions and familia
rize yourself with the exclusive features
of your machine. You will find sewing
exciting on your easyto-operate Pfaff 73.
If you have any sewing problems, please contac
t your Pfaff dealer. He will be glad to help you
at any time.
G. M. PFAFF AG
Karlsruhe-Durlach Branch
r
19
9
11
12
17
13
DR62OA
I Face cover
2 Take-up lever
3 Thread retainer
4 Spool pins
5 Stitch width dial (A)
6 Needle position lever
7 BobbIn winder
8 Balance wheel
9 Stop motion knob
10 Motor disengaging mechanism
11 Bobbin winder thread retainer
12 Reverse teed control
13 Stitch length control
14 Free arm
15 Free arm top cover
16 Free arm cap
(enclosing transverse rotary hook)
2
17
10
19
20
21
22
23
Sewing foot
Sewing toot thumb screw
Light switch
Needle thread tension
Presser bar lifter
Needle set screw
Needle plate
DR 050 A
:It
Fundamentals of Machine Operation
• Whenever you have to turn the balance wheel, turn it toward you
(counter-clockwise as shown by black arrow). Make sure the stop
motion knob is tightened before you begin sewing.
•
Never run a threaded machine unless you have fabric under the sew
ing foot.
—-H’
• Place both threads back under the sewing foot before you put fabric
into the machine.
• The machine will feed the material under the sewing foot automatically.
All you have to do is guide the work.
• Always bring the take-up lever to its highest position before you begin
and after you have completed a seam. Failure to observe this rule may
cause the thread to slip out of the needle eye. Also, it is easier to
remove the work with the take-up lever up.
3
DR 051
How to Operate Your Sewing
Machine
Engaging the Sewing Mechani
sm
.4 Hold balance wheel and turn
stop motion knob clockwise (as
indicated by
black arrow).
Disengaging the Sewing Mechani
sm
Hold balance wheel and turn
stop motion knob counter-clock
wise (toward
you). The sewing mechanism is
disengaged for bobbin winding.
The Workplate
The workplate is used to enlar
ge the working area for ordin
ary sewing.
Before you attach the workplate
, raise the presser bar lifter
and turn the
balance wheel until the take-up
lever is at its lowest position
(see arrow
at right).
.4 Hold workplate level and push
it between free arm and sewing
foot.
Tilt it slightly so that its lugs
enter the holes in the mach
ine base (see
arrows in right illustration).
.4 Swing down the support and
press it firmly against the base
plate (see
ill, at bottom).
,,__..
-
-
-
4-
Jr
_,r 4
-
44
4
-
— .
4
.
-;
.4
OR 510
Electrical Informatio
n
Push plug I into
receptacle 2 and plu
g 3 at other end of
wall outlet.
cord into the
Cord 4 leads to the
foot control which
serves to regulate the
machine speed.
OR 558
Motor Disengaging
Mechanism
Powerdriven machin
es feature a lever
underneath the balanc
serves to swing the
e wheel which
motor to its operat
ive position. To do
lever down. After
this, flick the
you have completed
sewing, flick the leve
position in order to
r to its top
return the motor to
the inoperative positio
n.
With the motor swu
ng out of engage
ment, all machines
stands can be driven
set up on treadle
by foot power.
Foot Contro’
Place the foot control
under the table or
cabinet within easy
foot. Rest the right
reach of your
foot on the control ped
al and press.
The harder you press,
the faster the machin
e will run.
5
R 7132
DR 851
Straight Stitching
4 For straight-stitch sewing set:
Dial A
0
Lever B = Center
I
This setting is indicated on pages 28—41
as follow:
A = 0, B =
Control G regulates the stitch leng
th. For detailed instructions plea
se refer
to page 18. To backtack the end
of a seam, simply depress the finge
r-tip
control.
DR 009 A
6
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DR 614
Removing the Bobbin Case
Raise needle to its highest po!nt and
open free arm cap.
Lift latch k with the forefinger of your
right hand and pull out bobbin case
with bobbin. When you release the latch,
the bobbin drops out.
DR 613
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Inserting a Full Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
R 5867
0
As shown in illustration 1, hold bobbin in left hand so that the thread end falls from the top down toward you,
and insert bobbin into bobbin case.
0
Hold the bobbin firmly in the bobbin case and pull the thread into the case slot.
0
Pull the thread under the tension spring until it emerges from the opening at the end of the spring. Leave about
three inches of thread hanging from the bobbin case.
0
Hold the case by its open latch so that the bobbin cannot Fall out.
R 5869
2
R 5870
3
R 5868
4
iij
Inserting the Bobbin Case
Raise take-up lever to its highest point and lift the latch with the thumb
and forefinger of your right hand. Turn bobbin case until slot points up
(see arrow). Place bobbin case on center stud s of hook.
4
In replacing the bobbin case, it is best to hold the loose end of thread
so that it will not get jammed between bobbin case and hook. Release
the latch and press against bobbin case until you hear it snap into place.
An improperly inserted bobbin case will cause needle breakage.
I
DR 609
I
I
11
Mercerized
Cotton
Silk
Needle
Size
80
to
100
to
000
twist
or
70
Lightweight Fabrics
such as dress silks and cottons,
sheer woolens, shirting, draperies.
70
to
80
A&B
twist
80
Medium Fabrics
such as lightweight woolens,
madras, muslin, brocades,
heavy silks and rayon,
gabardine.
50
to
70
Heavy Fabrics
such as coating, denim, corduroy, slipcover fabrics, bed
tickings, lightweight canvas.
40
to
50
c&D
Very Heavy Fabrics
such as heavy tickings, canvas,
overcoating, sailcloth, upholstery
24
to
40
E
twist
Types of Fabrics
Fine Fabrics
such as georgette, chiffon,
batiste, voile, lawn, silk.
Synthetics, Rayon, Acetate
including nylon, orIon, dacron,
plastics, etc.
Recommended Needle and
Thread Sizes
The appearance of the finished seam is de
pendent on the correct relationship between
needle, thread and fabric. Select the proper
thread sizes and needles from this chart.
The same size threads should be used in the
needle and on the bobbin. Some experienced
seamstresses prefer a somewhat thinner bob
bin thread. However, the bobbin thread never
should be thicker than the needle thread.
8&c
twist
twist
Determined by
weight of fabric
40 to 50
For embroidery and darning work, a No. 50
thread should normally be used.
100
90
to
110
by
Thread size
60 to 80
12
[1
Important Facts about Needles
On Pfaff 73 sewing machines, System 130 R, flat-shank needles are used
for all ordinary sewing and embroidery work. Genuine Pfaff needles,
System 130 P are available from every Pfaff dealer. Bent or blunt needles
should not be used.
Changing the Needle
Bring needle bar to its highest point and lower sewing foot.
DR 080
Loosen needle set screw a half a turn \ and pull old needle out of
needle clamp. Insert new needle into opening of needle clamp and push
it up as far as it will go. Make sure that the flat side of the shank taces
toward the back and long groove toward you. Tighten needle set screw
a
13
4
Upper Threading
spool 1 on one of the spool pins
spool pins upto the vertical position. Place
Raise the presser bar lifter and swing the
!he thin the right and
thread retainer 2 (see ill, at top,ofp. 15). Seize
and lead the thread behind both scrolls of
draw the thread into the
to
s
suffice
It
.
you until it snaps into he eyelets
left of the thread retainer and pull It toward
left eyelet.
the right so that it slips
3 (see ill, at bottom of p. 15) and jerk it far to
Pull the thread between any two of tension discs
t the casting between
agains
spring. As you do this, press the thread
properly into the slot and under the thread check
spool and tension.
hole at its end. Lead the
pass the thread from right to left through the
Bring take-up lever 4 as high as it will go and
needle from front to back.
thread down and into slot 5. Then thread the
14
-
--
01
0,
0,
DR 615
Correct Tension Regulation
correct, you
Balanced tensions are essential for sewing. If your tension is
(lii).
below
will have perfect seams as sketched
Sketch I
—
The threads interlock on the underside of the fabric.
C a u s e: Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight.
The threads interlock on the surface of the fabric.
Sketch Ii
C a u s e: Upper tension too tight or lower tension too loose.
A
Drawing Up the Bobbin
Thread
Hold needle thread lightly in your left
hand. Turn balance wheel toward you
until the needle moves down and up
again. Lightly pull needle thread to draw
bobbin thread up through the needle
hole. Place both threads back under the
II
III
sewing foot.
16
DR 580
Regulating the Thread Tension
The bobbin thread tension has been set for a medium grade at the factory
and need not be adjusted for all ordinary sewing operations. If a special
sewing operation should require a looser or tighter tension, turn the small
knurled screw on the bobbin case as follows:
for looser tension.
W\
Turn it left
for
tighter tension.
Turn it right
J
4
The thread tension screw can be turned with the thumb tip.
Determine whether the bobbin thread tension is set for a medium grade
the
by holding the thread end between thumb and forefinger and letting
the
keep
to
enough
strong
be
should
tension
The
freely.
hang
bobbin case
you
bobbin case from being pulled down by its own weight. However, as
jerk your hand slightly, the bobbin case should gradually slide down.
Iv
A
The final stitch appearance can be regulated by the
upper tension knob, as follows:
for looser tension.
left
Turn
f4 for tighter tension.
Turn right
4J
‘‘
tension is so designed that all grades of
The upper
can be covered with one
loose to tight
tension
complete turn of the tension dial. The numbers on the
tension dial indicate different degrees of tension. The
higher the number, the greater the tension. Only in
very rare cases will it be necessary to reset the tension.
For ordinary sewing, the upper tension should be set
between 3 and 5.
Your upper tension has a third tension disc for two—
needle work.
R8029
17
—
[
DR 008
Stitch Length Regulation
1.
h length and to limit
serves to regulate the stitc
The stitch length control
it in sewing backwards.
h length (the higher the
control indicate the stitc
Numbers 0 to 9 on the
set on “0”. the machine
is
stitch). When the control
the
ger
lon
the
,
ber
num
setting the control on ‘9”
gest stitch is obtained by
ceases feeding; the lon
th, turn the control
). To regulate the stitch leng
(about 6 stitches to the inch
slot (see arrow).
the
of
top
fully visible at the
until the desired number is
Reverse Sewing
control down. When the
ply press the finger-tip
To sew in reverse, sim
ing.
sew
machine resumes forward
control is released, the
ing or end of a seam and
backtacking the beginn
This feature is ideal for
for darning rips.
18
DR 009
DR 042
Changing the Sewing Foot
Lift both needle and presser bars to their highest positionS and turn sew
ing foot thumb screw b to the left. Tilt the foot sideways and pull it down.
1
j
ij
I
-
.
Slip on new foot and tighten screw b securely.
1L
DR 043
19
DR 616
• Dropping the Machine Feed
and button
for hoop embroidery, darning
This is particularly important
sewing.
the free arm
the drop feed control under
To drop the machine feed, turn
The fabric will cease feedin9.
toward you as far as it will go.
to its initial
turn the drop feed control back
To raise the machine feed,
into place.
position. You should hear it snap
Darning Foot
L
r
from the
darning foot No. 93-102826-91
Remove the sewing foot. Attach
and
screw,
set
it is behind the needle
rear. Hold spring clip c so that
tighten screw b.
20
DR612
OR 083
)
I
All-Purpose Sewing Foot
(with Clear-View Shoe)
179-00 is attached as instructed on
All-purpose sewing foot No. 93-100
page 19.
it is
facilitates all sewing operations where
The transparency of its shoe
fabric
the
important to watch the needle penetrate
discussed in the second part of this
Special application possibilities are
Sewing Feet and AttaChments.
book under the heading Using
21
dk.
Care and Maintenance
ent on regular and proper cleaning and
Longevity and smooth machine performance are depend
oiling.
machine with animal or vegetable oils. All
Use Pfaff sewing machine oil only. Never lubricate
moving and rotating parts require regular lubrication.
needle and swing
4 To oil mechanism in free arm, remove sewing foot, raise
with a screw
arrow)
(see
screw
cover
top
out free arm cap. Turn out the
wise of the
length
out
latter
the
pull
and
cover
top
of
end
driver. Lift front
arm.
order.
To replace and secure top cover, proceed in reverse
s in the sewing
From time to time, lubricate the needle bar frame bearing
head.
DR 605
DR 606
22
‘4 There are two openings in the rim of the stitch width dial, one on the left and the other at the
back (see arrows). These openings are the oil holes of the zigzag mechanism.
Do not lubricate the bobbin winder.
The raceway in the sewing hook is the most important oiling point. Put one
drop of oil into the raceway each day you sew.
From time to time, remove the needle plate and clean the machine feed
with a soft brush Take a toothpick and remove accumulations of packed
lint. Take out the bobbin case and the bobbin and clean the vicinity of the
sewing hook.
/
Before you begin to oil the mechanism under the arm top cover and at
the needle-bar end of the machine, remove the dirt and lint which have
accumulated on these parts.
DR 6fl
DR 610
23
L
OR 024
Changing the Light Bulb
The built-in 15-watt sewing light
illuminates the area of stitching perfe
ctly.
To change the light bulb, remove
the face cover, push the bulb into
its
socket, turn left, and pull out. Whe
n inserting new light bulb, be sure
to
slide bulb pins into socket slots. Pres
s bulb in and turn right.
Removing the Face Cover
To change the light bulb or oil the parts
at the needle-bar end, remove the
face
cover by pulling it upwards.
Replacing the Face Cover
4 Slip tip d into slot e and
push face cover
up until it snaps into place.
l3R12
24
0R505
I
L
Trouble Shooting
1. Machine Skips Stitches
Cause:
Remedy:
Needle incorrectly inserted.
be sure that the long
Push needle up as far as it will go and
of shank away from you.
side
flat
groove faces toward you, and
Wrong needle.
on page 12.
Consult needle and thread chart
130 R needles.)
em
(For ordinary sewing, use Syst
Needle bent.
Machine threaded improperly.
the thread.
Needle too fine or too thick for
Insert new needle.
ucted on pages 14 and 15.
Check and correct threading as instr
page 12).
Use correct needle and thread (see
2. Needle Thread Breaks
Cause:
e thread
The above-mentioned may caus
breakage.
Thread tension too tight.
Poor or knorty thread used.
d or needs
Hook raceway is jammed with threa
oiling.
plate slot.
Burrs or sharp edges on needle
Remedy:
e.
See remedies listed under 1. abov
Adjust tensions as instructed.
Use good quality threads only.
Clean and oil hook raceway.
emery cloth.
Polish needle plate slot with fine
25
4:
3. Needle Breaks
Cause:
hook.
Bent needle strikes point of sewing
y.
Needle too thin or thread too heav
Fabric pulls needle so it bends and
strikes needle plate.
Bobbin case inserted incorrectly.
4. Faulty Stitch Formation
Cause:
Improper tension.
Remedy:
er damage.
Replace needle at once to prevent furth
.
Use correct needle and thread sizes
material lightly.
Don’t force the feeding motion. Guide the
into place (see page 11).
Push bobbin case until you hear it snap
Remedy:
Adjust tensions as instructed.
fabric.
the correct size for the needle and
Use only firstrate thread
r when winding the bobbin. (For
Dont run thread over finge
9).
threading the machine see page
—
Thread too heavy, knotty or hard.
Bobbin unevenly wound.
discs.
Pieces of thread between tension
5. Machine Feeds Improperly
Cause:
Feed dog dropped.
stitch length
Machine does not feed because
“0.
on
set
control is
een feed
Accumulations of lint packed betw
ve thread.
Raise presser bar lifter and remo
Remedy:
Raise feed dog (see page 20).
ed.
Regulate stitch length, as desir
ve lint with a stiff brush.
Take off needle plate and remo
teeth.
26
6. Machine Works Heavily
Cause:
Hook raceway lacks oil or is obstructed by
pieces of thread.
Mechanism clogged by inferior oil.
Bobbin winder working while sewing
(when a bobbin is not being filled).
Remedy:
Clean and oil hook raceway.
Use only Pfaff sewing machine oil
—
never salad oil or glycerine.
Stop bobbin winder.
7. Motor Idles
Cause:
Motor disengaging lever raised.
Remedy:
S
Flick lever down (see page 5).
Thread Jamming
If thread should happen
even if the machine should be handled improperly.
The Pfaff rotary hook will not normally jam,
hard working of the
overcome
to
sufficient
be
will
instances
motor in most
to jam in the hook raceway, the power of the
mechanism.
balance wheel back,
put a drop of oil into the hook raceway, jerk the
If this action should not free the jammed thread,
then rock it back and forth.
27
Using Sewing Feet and Attachments
(setting see page 6)
847 60
Zipper Insertion
Machine Setting: A
0
B
Position of zipper
Pin or baste closed zipper on wrong side of fabric.
to overlap the
fabric
the
depends on whether or not you want the edge of
left edge of
to
close
seam
t
straigh
a
Run
zipper. Turn fabric to right side.
operation.
uous
contin
one
in
side
other
the
up
and
end
zipper, stitch across
Use right edge of foot as a guide.
DR 002
Quilting
Machine Settin9: A
=
0
B
=
parallel rows
.4 Edge stitcher No. 847 600 used with the quilting gauge sews
the gauge
guide
s
Alway
fabric.
the
of
surface
entire
the
over
g
of stitchin
finger along the preceding row of stitches.
.
Attractive tea cosies, slippers, seat pads and covers can be quilted
DR 003 A
28
847 56
Flat Felled Seams
Machine Setting: A
=
0 or 2 (optional)
B
=
Flat felled seams are used to dura
bly join two pieces of fabric. They
are
made in two operations.
Flat felled seams usually are strai
ght-stitched. Narrow zigzag stitc
hes are
used for felling on elasticized fabri
cs only.
‘4
DR 075
First Seam
Lay pieces together with the wrong
sides facing and the bottom
piece
protruding Va inch. Feed both
pieces into felling foot, as illus
trated, so
that the bottom fabric is
folded over edge of top
piece and stitched down.
Make sure that protrud
ing seam allowance is not
folded twice.
Second Seam
Open the two pieces, place them
under the needle right side up, inser
t
seam ridge into felling foot opening,
and stitch down to the left. Make sure
that the second seam is placed close
to the edge but not beyond it.
The felling foot has a needle slot,
rather than a needle hole, to perm
it
zigzag felling.
29
DR 049
847 551
Hemming
Machine Setting: A = 0 or 2 to 3 (optional)
B =
The hemmer foot is indispensable if you want to sew a uniform hem. You
can hem with straight or zigzag stitches, depending on the type of fabric
you are using.
Fold over edge of fabric about 1/8” to facilitate insertion into the hemmer
foot. Place fabric under hemmer foot so that the needle stitches in the
material about 1/2” short of its rear edge and close to the folded edge.
Sew backwards as far as the rear fabric edge. Take the work out of the
machine by pulling it forward. Don’t trim the threads (sketch 1).
Draw the fabric into the scroll of the hemmer by pulling both threads back
wards. Inserting the fabric into the scroll like this will ensure a neat hem
right from the beginning. Feed fabric so that the hem edge is in line with
the left edge of the hemmer scroll. Don’t crowd fabric into the scroll, but
keep scroll well filled with fabric at all times (see ill, at top).
DR 073
‘4 Avoid ugly ends by slowing down feeding. To do this, press the fabric
against the needle plate on the left side of the foot before you come to the
end of the hem (see ill, at bottoni).
If you want to hem several edges, hem first edge to within about 1/2” of
corner, cut away remaining portion of hem, as shown in sketch 2. Then
hem the second edge, as instructed above.
Before you hem the last edge, cut away about
as illustrated in sketch 3.
DR074
30
1/4”
of the hem sewn first,
—
838 954
Overcasting Edges
Machine Setting: A
—
2 to 4 (optional)
B
=
h and
edges. Use a long, wide zigzag stitc
.4 Overcasting prevents frayed
the other
and
c
fabri
the
into
h
stitc
one
g
sew edge with the needle takin
s after fabric is cut and before the
over its edge. You may overcast edge
pieces are joined.
DR 081
u
838 954
Butt Seaming
Machine Setting: A
=
3 or 4
B
=
‘I
d
h do not ravel easily may be butte
Two similar pieces of fabric whic
ded
men
be
hes. Worn bed sheets may
together and joined with zigzag stitc
. Place the selvaged edges of the
strip
r
cente
worn
this way. Cut out
s
sewing foot so that the abutted edge
remaining pieces of sheet under the
g stitches.
zigza
wide
,
close
with
them
Join
are centered under the needle.
Hem raw edges of sheet.
31
DR 045
DR 076
Darning without Darning I-loops
You will really appreciate the free arm of your Pfaff 73 when you darn
tubular clothing, such as underpants, sleeves, socks or stockings without
darning hoops.
4 Trim ragged edges of hole with the fabric grain, then stitch back and
forth across the hole from one side to the other with the machine running
at high speed.
Now sew back and forth over preceding work with short stitches taken
the
lengthwise of the arm. This anchors threads in the unworn area around
hole. Always hold fabric taut.
32
DR 077
,.
.
/
A
DR 057
DR 056
DR 559
Darning
0, B
Machine setting: A
being in
20. Place fabric into darning hoops, the damaged area
Prepare your machine for darning as instructed on page
Pf off dealer.
the center of the hoops. Hoops may be obtained from your
ches. Make sure the stitches are ta
section. This job can be done with
Triangular Tears
ken right into the good material.
out foot, too.
Triangular tears are best darned by
Long Rips
placing the torn section between
Small Holes
may be darned with the normal sew
hoops and making close stitches
medium-size holes
and
small
Darn
work
ing foot and without hoops. Set needle
Move
lengthwise.
and
across
by trimming ragged edges with the
hands.
plate in its normal, or sewing posi
both
with
under the needle
fabric grain. First stitch back and forth
tion and use forward-reverse feed
the
to
side
one
from
across the hole
Thin Spots
control.
other with the machine running at
Remember that “a stitch in time sa
at
fabric
the
high speed. Then turn
ves nine” and reinforce spots that
right angles and sew back and forth
have worn thin with short stitches
over preceding work with short stit
worn
across
made lengthwise and
‘
33
DR 055
838 954
R 7157
Inserting Patches
U
Machine Setting: A
=
8
4
=
following method may be used
Large holes can be patched quickly. The
grain will match the rest of the
for jersey fabrics. Cut patch so that the
area.
fabric. Place the patch over the damaged
m length.
.4 Sew it down with a wide zigzag stitch of mediu
ers twice. Turn over and trim close
For additional strength stitch over corn
to seams.
838 954
Attaching Lace
Machine Setting: A
=
2
B
operation. Fold the edge of the
You can attach lace edging in one simple
following the texture, and pre
side,
fabric about /“ over to the wrong
of the
ght edge of the lace on the fold
ferably iron it down. Place the strai
into
stitch
one
g
takin
hes,
stitc
w zigzag
fabric and sew it down with narro
cloth on
ssive
exce
off
Cut
only.
lace
lace and fabric and the other into
to the seam.
4 the wrong side of the material close
DR 044
34
DR 033
838 954
Applique Work
Machine Setting: A
1’/2
to 2
Applique is very effectiv
e on buster
suits, pinafores, bibs, froc
ks, covers,
wall hangings, or wherev
er a gay note
is desired.
B
Fill out small, but essentia
l sections of
design with granite stitches
.
Applique is easy and modern.
Trace design on wrong side of fab
ric and baste
a piece of contrasting material to
right side.
Outline design on wrong side
with a narrow
zigzag stitch
and the motif will appear on
the right side.
—
Trim excess material close to the
seam and sew
over edges of applique with a med
iumwide satin
stitch.
If you want to give the design
a plastic effect,
use buttonhole foot No. 847
616, flick lever
B to the left and satin-stitch over
a filler thread
(see also page 36).
R7167
35
C
R7220
V
DR 082
.4 Sewing Buttonholes
gauge to
616 and set slide on buttonhole
Attach buttonhole foot No. 847
be
when
th
leng
buttonhole is the right
buttonhole length desired. The
w).
belo
arrow
(see
ator
of slide indic
ginning of first seam reaches red end
cks at
on the opposite page, the barta
When you follow the procedure
nhole seam.
butto
a
as
wide
as
e
twic
be
each end of your buttonhole will
B
11/2 (2) (first notch)
Machine Setting: A =
0.
ost
Alm
):
seam
e
Stitch Length (for buttonhol
d No. 50.
Use only embroidery and darning threa
=
in the guide
inent buttonholes, pull a filler cord
.4 If you prefer more prom
material.
scrap
of
piece
h length, sew on a
groove. To get the correct stitc
sable to
advi
is
it
cs,
fabri
en
wov
loosely
In making buttonholes in soft or
nholes
butto
n
r the material. To strengthe
place a piece of tissue paper unde
rial
mate
n
cotto
en
wov
piece of firmly
t
in tricot and knit fabrics, inser a
between the fabric layers.
5IOO7
DR 035
the aid of the all-purpose
Buttonholes may be made with
in the left groove of the
cord
filler
sewing foot. Place the
clear-view shoe.
36
:Y:.1
D
4
Change dial A to IV,.’ (2). Trim filler cord at
end
of first stitch row. Sew second row and stop
about
4 to 6 stitches from end of first row.
5
Turn dial A to second notch position (or ‘4).
Make
second tack, as instructed above.
Cl)
6
0
C
0
Turn dial A to O” and make 3 or 4 fasteni
ng
stitches.
7
Trim both the sewing and filler threads. Open
the
buttonhole with your seam ripper. Be careful
not
to injure the bartacks.
C
a
0
a
Instructions for Buttonholing
I
Sew first side over a filler cord. When beginn
ing of seam
reaches red end of slide indicator on buttonhole
gauge, it is the
right length. Leave needle in fabric on right side
of its throw.
2
Lift foot, turn fabric around clockwise, using
needle as a pivot.
Pull filler cord around the needle to the left
and lay it parallel
to completed line of stitching. Lower foot and take
one stitch
to the left.
3
Turn dial A until it is caught in second notch
(or stops at 4).
Make 4 to 6 bartack stitches, slightly closing
together button
hole end to reduce length of bar.
37
-
0R583
Button Sewing
your Pfaff. The needle
on buttons or rings with
Don’t be afraid to sew
either, The latter may
ads will not get loose
won’t break and the thre
chain stitch. It won’t
a
ade clothing sewn with
y-m
read
with
only
pen
hap
on a single button, but
machine out for sewing
be worthwile to take the
of buttons on pillow
feature when sewing lines
you will appreciate this
g rings on curtains
enin
or dresses, or when fast
ts
shir
on
ers,
cov
bed
and
dy. Attach all-purpose
e will come in very han
etc. There your machin
trol on 0.
00. Set stitch length con
sewing foot No. 93-1 00 179special button sewing
n on with the aid of a
Hooks and eyes are sew
dealer.
be obtained from your Pfaff
foot, No, 847 608, which can
Machine Setting: A
=
0
‘
B
=
•, feed dog dropped.
[:
,
stitch through hole and
will enter left hole. Let needle
dle
nee
that
so
t of its
align
and
sewing foot
3, until needle on the righ
Place button under button
counter-clockwise, usually to
A
dial
fasten
Turn
to
dle.
ry
nee
essa
se
nec
hes. Rai
ag stitches as you deem
make one or two tying stitc
hine and sew as many zigz
mac
rt
Sta
.
hole
right
r
throw is centered ove
three tying stitches.
A to 0 and make two or
button securely. Return dial
the second pair
ve process, stitching through
ion button and repeat the abo
osit
rep
s,
ton
but
le
r-ho
When sewing on fou
of holes.
38
DR 036
Monogram Embroidery
MachineSetting: A
=
3to4
B
=
Feed dog dropped. Script letters are best for monogram embroidery without
a sewing foot. It requires a little practice. You will soon enjoy creative
embroidery once you have learned to move the material at a uniform rate.
The fabric should be held taut in the hoops and the presser bar lifter lowered.
Let the needle stitch into the fabric at the beginning of your design and
draw bobbin thread up through the fabric. Hold both thread ends and sew
over outline, moving hoops slowly and evenly. To give your monogram
dimensional quality, embroider outline twice. Be sure stitches are closely
spaced.
‘
93-50179
535 954
Sewing Monograms
Machine Setting: A
2’/2
to 3
B
=
4 The procedure below is primarily used for block letters. Set needle plate
so that feed dog feeds the material. Set machine for satin stitch and sew
outlines of monogram, making sure that seams do not overlap at joints
of letters.
DR 031
39
DR 001
538954
Straight-Stitch Hemstitching
Machine Setting: A
0
B
+
Stitch Length: 2 to 4
130 Zwi-Ho, as instructed on
Insert twin hemstitching needle, System
further than for ordinary
little
a
screw
set
le
page 13. Turn out need
needles.
thread tension are the same as
The thread size, threading procedure and
42).
for cording work (see page
ses, dresses, handkerchiefs, doilies
Beautiful hemstitching effects on blou
System 130 twin needle. The
and so forth, can be obtained with Pfaff’s
ed the hemstitching will be.
ounc
pron
more
the
,
yarn
c
harder the fabri
etc. are best suited to hem,
gette
geor
For this reason, batiste, organdy,
mmended.
stitching, while woolly fabrics are not reco
Procedure
seamline on fabric. Sew first row.
Fold fabric to mark seamline or trace
hes along traced line. At the end of
Guide fabric so that wing needle stitc
sew second row. Guide fabric in
and
turn
a
half
the seam, turn fabric
the needle holes it has made and
s
such a way that wing needle penetrate
ly.
enlarged previous
at least two operations. If desired,
Imitation hemstitching thus requires
tal
seams may be stitched parallel to
men
additional straight or curved orna
ts may be obtained by using vari
the first one. Exciting decorative effec
ds.
threa
ing
colored embroidery and darn
4 Zigzag Hemstitching
Machine Setting: A = Upto 1/2
B
4
Procedure
d
needle should penetrate the trace
Same as above, except that the wing
.
line only when it is on the left of its throw
40
Cording
Machine Setting: A = 0 B
To cord on your Pfaff 73,
use a cording foot and a twin
needle.
Twin needles are available
for needle distances of
(3/4),
1.2
1.6 (‘/e”), 1.8, 2.0
millimeters.
-
(/64”), 2.5 (/32”),
3.0, and 4.0 (/32”)
Cording feet are available
in three varieties, as follows:
Pin tucks are made with cord
ing foot No. 847 680 (7
grooves, 3/4 wide each) and
a 1.2-mm twin needle.
For narrow cording use cord
ing foot No. 847 675 (5 groo
ves, 1
/u.” wide each; see ill.) and
a 1.6-mm twin needle.
Wider cording is made with
cGrding foot No. 847 671 (3
grooves, I64” wide each) and
of 2.0 or 2.5 millimeters.
a twin needle with a needle dista
nce
Cording foot and twin need
les, System 130 R, are
supplied on special
request and at extra cost.
Changing the Needle
and the Sewing Foo
t
Bring take-up lever to high
est point, loosen needle set
screw a, and pull
ordinary needle out of needle
clamp. Insert twin needle into
opening of
needle clamp and push it up
as far as it will go. Make sure
that the flat
side of the shank faces towa
rd the back. Tighten need
le set screw a
securely.
41
Turn sewing foot thumb screw b to the left and take out the sewing foot. Slip on cording foot and tighten screw b
securely.
it is best to turn out screw b completely if you want to slip on a cording foot with the guide attached.
Thread
Size
Pin tucks and narrow cording are made with a No. 50 embroidery thread, wider cording with sewing silk in the needle
and on the bobbin.
Set the machine for a medium stitch length (about 4).
Upper Threading
Place a spool of thread on each of the two spool pins. Pass both thread ends through both thread retainer openings 2,
as Illustrated on page 15. Lead one thread between the rear and center tension discs, and the other between the center
and front tension discs of upper tension 3. Raise take-up lever 4 to its highest position and pass both threads through
the hole at its end. Pull threads into slot 5 and thread each needle from front to back.
The bobbin thread is drawn up as instructed on page 16. To do this, hold both needle threads in your left hand.
Thread Tension
Slightly increase the bobbin thread tension, and increase or decrease the
needle thread tension depending on the type of fabric used. If the tension
has been set correctly, the bobbin thread should appear as a faint zigzag
line on the other side.
Filled Cording
If you want to make cording in filmy fabrics or render your cording more
prominent, Pfaff recommends that you insert a filler cord, Its thickness
depends on the cording size you want.
Remove the bed slide and pass the filler cord through hole g from below
(see ill, on page 41). Lay the end of the filler cord back under the cording
foot (together with the needle and bobbin thread ends). Pull a filler cord
forward under the bed slide and place the ball in your lap.
DR 521
42
0R058
Spacing between
Tucks
To ensure uniform spa
cing between parallel tuck
s, place the preceding
seam into of the groove
s of the foot and use it
as a guide.
For a larger spacing betw
een tucks, use the adju
stable guide (see ilL on
page 42) which is part of
every cording foot.
Various Cording
Effects
Attractive cording effects
may be obtained by com
bining horizontal, verti
cal and diagonal tucks
or stitching curved tucks
(see ill, below).
If you want to turn a cor
ner, leave needle in fab
ric (up to needle eye only),
lift foot, turn fabric,
lower foot, and continu
e sewing. To stitch an acu
angle, turn fabric halfway
te
, let needle make one
stitch, turn fabric all the
way, and resume stitc
hing.
OR 473
OR 474
OR 475
43
ORO5BA
DR 059
93100t19
Ornament& Sewing
You can make exciting fashion stitch designs by alternating straight and
zigzag stitching, varying stitch length, stitch width or needle position by
hand. This will be easy after you have had sufficient practice. Some of the
designs you can make are illustrated below.
V
I
Interesting two-needle effects can be obtained by using a 1.6 mm twin
needle (see page 41) and different color thread. For twin-needle sewing,
the stitch width dial should not be turned beyond 1 1/2”.
I
44
R5414
93100178
Coarse-Thread Embroidery
Machine Setting: Stitch width lever A = 0 to 4;
needle position lever B = optional; stitch length:
small to medium.
Buy coarse, four-ply embroidery thread in the desired
colors
from your Pfaff dealer. Embroidery designs made with
this
thread are very attractive. They have dimensional quality
and
closely resemble manual embroidery work.
The adjoining designs were made with the zigzag
stitch. To
make the design illustrated in the middle, alterna
te straight
and zigzag stitching.
Machine embroidery is made with the machine runnin
g at a
moderate speed.
45
[E838
Stitching Synthetic Materials
Curtains
Machine Setting: Stitch width lever A
stitch length control = 1.
=
I to 3, depending on material; needle position lever B
=
To finish the edge of synthetic curtain fabrics, such as Diolen, use a matching synthetic thread. If necessary, ease the
upper and lower tensons somewhat.
Both these hints should be adhered to in order to avoid shrinking of both the thread and the fabric in the laundry.
To butt seam the various sections of curtains, proceed as instructed on p. 31.
Plastic Sheets
Machine Setting: Stitch width lever A
=
0 to 2; needle position lever B
=
4- stitch length: medium.
Plastic curtains, as are used in kitchens and bathrooms, are sewn with synthetic thread or cotton and a fine needle.
Place a piece of tissue paper under sticky plastic sheets which can be easily removed after the sewing. To prevent plastic
sheets from sticking to the sewing foot, wipe its sole with an oily cloth.
46
CONTENTS
Page
Foreword
Essential Parts
Fundamentals of Machine Operation
.
Page
1
2
3
How to Operate Your Sewing Machine
Engaging and Disengaging the Sewing Mechanism
The Workplate
Electrical Information
Motor Disengaging Mechanism
Foot Control
Straight Stitching
Zigzag Sewing
Removing the Bobbin Case
Winding the Bobbin
Inserting a Full Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
Inserting the Bobbin Case
Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes
Important Facts about Needles
Changing the Needle
Upper Threading
Correct Tension Regulation
Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread
Regulating the Thread Tension
Stitch Length Regulation
Reverse Sewing
Changing the Sewing Foot
Dropping the Machine Feed
4
4
5
5
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
13
14
16
16
17
18
18
19
20
Darning Foot
All-Purpose Sewing Foot
20
21
Care and Maintenance
Changing the Light Bulb
Removing and Replacing the Face Cover
Trouble Shooting
22
24
24
25
Using Sewing Feet and Attachments
Zipper Insertion
Quilting
Flat Felled Seams
Hemming
Overcasting Edges
Butt Seaming
Darning without Darning Hoops
Darning
Inserting Patches
Attaching Lace
Applique Work
Sewing Buttonholes
Button Sewing
Sewing and Embroidering Monograms
Hemstitching
Cording
Ornamental Sewing
Coarse Thread Embroidery
Stitching Synthetic Materials
28
28
29
30
31
31
32
33
34
34
35
36
38
39
40
41
44
45
46
.
.
48
CPFAFFD°
©
Printed in Germany
Nr. 20011 engL (US)WI ii
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