PFAFF 74 Instruction book

PFAFF
NSTRUCTION BOOK
!%J 1:
:w
INSTRUCTIONS
74
Karlsruhe-Durlach Branch
G. M. PFAFF AG
If you have any sewing problems, please contact your Plaff dealer. He will be glad to help you at any time.
Follow these simple instructions and familiarize yourself with the exclusive features of your machine. You will find sewing
exciting on your easy4o-operate Pfaff 74.
Even if you are an experienced seamstress, you will find this book a valuable guide to easy sewing.
This instruction book will help you understand the machine and give you valuabTe tips to make sewing more fun for you.
You are now the proud owner of a PfaIf 74, the sewing machine which will enable you to master all ordinary sewing
and darning jobs that may come up in a home. In addition, your machine can sew a large number of beautiful decorative
designs completely automatically.
You dream has come true.
FOREWORD
CPFAFFD®
-—-
‘,.
‘l*”
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
I
/>
17 16 15
Face cover
Takw-up lever
Thread retainer
Spool pins
Stitch width lever (A)
Fashion disc
Needle position lever (B)
Bobbin winder
Etalance wheel
18
19
20
3
4
15
16
2
Motor dennaqinq
mechanism
Bobbin winder thread
retainer
Reverse teed control
Stitch lenqth control
Needle plate
PlaIt rotary sowina hook
12
Slop ninilon knob
ltl
11
Feol doq
Bed cover
Sewinq toot thumb screw
Liqht switch
Needle thread tension
Presser bar litter
Needle set screw
Sewinq foot
11
3
19
20
21
22
23
21
14
12
13
11
DR 556
.-
—
—
.-—
Never run a threaded machine unle
ss you have fabric under the sewi
ng
foot.
Place both threads back under
the sewing foot before you put
fabric
into the machine.
•
•
•
3
Always bring take-up lever to its
highest position before you begin
and
after you have completed a seam.
Failure to observe this rule may
cause the thread to slip out of
the
needle eye. Also, it is easier to
remove the work with the take-up
lever up.
• The machine will feed the material
under the sewing foot automati
cally.
All you have to do is guide the work
.
Make sure stop motion knob on
the balance wheel is tightened befo
re
you begin sewing.
•
• Whenever you have to turn the
balance wheel, turn it toward you
(counter-clockwise as shown by black
arrow).
Fundamentals of Machine Operatio
n
-
-
DR 051
0R050
.,..
t
.-.---
———
S--.-
I
___
___
___
___
L
j
1.
it to the right.
4
hines
rootdriven mac
l outlet
pushed into the wal
ht cord whose plug is
t
hnvc merely a sewlig
cover. Mount ririving bel
ht. push button or, face
lig
sew
the
on
h
itc
To sw
wheel, pulling
e the belt from the stand
iov
ren
ne
chi
ma
the
p
Before you dro
DR 861
t
/N
clockwise.
turn stop motion knob
Hold balance wheel and
ing Mechanism
ward
Disengaging the Sew
countorclockwrse (to
turn stop motion knot,
and
eel
wh
e
g.
anc
din
Hold bal
aged for bobbin win
chanism is then diseng
you). The sewing me
Mechanism
Engaging the Sewing
wing Machine
Operation of Your Se
Sewlight
Power Drive and
end
and plug 3 at other
on hack of mochine,
2
e
acl
ept
rec
into
1
g
Push plu
foot control.
int. Cord 4 leads to the
ol cord into the wall out
Eectrical hiformation
4
DR 506
R 7132
I
5
The Pfaff rotary
hook enables you
to sew at speeds
a minute Such high
of over 1200 stitches
speeds are ideal for
straight stitching
Wide zigzag stitches
operations
and Automatic embroidery
which is obtained
work
require
a tower speed
by depressing the
foot control only
slightly,
Sewing Speed
Place the foot
control under the
cabinet within easy
Rest the right foot
reach of your foot
on the control
pedal and press,
the faster the machine
The
harder you press,
will run.
On some sewing
cabinets, the loot
control cord can be
the opening in the
passed through
bedplate extension.
Foot Control
Powercjr,ven machines
feature a lever underneath
serves to swing the
the balance wheel
which
motor to its operative
Position To do this
lever down. After
flick the
you have completed
sewing, flick the
position in order to
lever to its top
return the motor to
the inoperative
Position
With the motor swung
out of engagement
all machines set
stands can be driven
up on treadle
by loot power.
Motor Disengaging
Mechanism
‘4
H
11;
p
ii
4
I:
B
A
B
C
I
7
I
D
F
8
H
Ordinary zigzag seam
Elastic serpentine seam
o Blindstitch seam for non-elastic materials
D Scalloped seam for overcasting the
edges of underwear, lingerie, handkerchiefs
, doilies, etc. and obtaining an
additional ornamental effect.
F Elastic seam for stitching elastic materi
als and producing a decorative effect.
H Multi-stitch zigzag seam for stitching highly
elastic materials where it is essential that the
individual stitches are securely
anchored in the fabric, Ideally suited for
the following sewing jobs: inserting patch
es, attaching elastic to fabric, hutt
seaming two plies, etc.
I Blindstitch seam for elastic fabrics.
A
Utility-Stitch Fashion Discs
%- •‘-.
-r
A
00 544
—
—
-.r
—
Set the machine for the des
ired stitch width and stitch leng
th.
Always jerk stitch width lever
A to 0 before you insert or remo
ve a disc. Turn thumb nut R
the disc in the zigzag mechanism
counter-clockwise to release
, then pull it up and take it out.
Push the disc on the stud and
rotate it until stud H snaps into
one of the slots. Then tight
it clockwise.
en the thumb nut by turning
Changing the Fashion Discs
—
[R 8C2
DR tfl
sen
of the need}e
10
case with
and pull out bobbin
of your left hand
mb
thu
the
h
wit
k
Lift latch
bobbin drops out
release the latch, the
bobbin. When you
Furn the b&ane whee’
slide nd pull
hit fton end Of hod
inti the need’e ha
n Case
Removing the Bobbi
The amount of thread to be wound on the bobbin is
regulated
by turning the adjusting button accordingly,
Set the button at
Position A for the minimum amount of thread, or at
position B
for the maximum The button can be turned to
the desired
position after loosening its set screw with a screwdriver.
‘I
Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins and a
bobbin
on the bobbin winder spindle making sure that
the key at its
base enters the slot in the bobbin Pass the thread
through
the right hand thread guide, down and around
the thread
retainer stud, and up to the bobbin Wind a few
turns of
thread on the bobbin in clockwise direction Push the
bobbin
to the right and start the machine The bobbin
winder will stop
automatically when the bobbin is full. Press the bobbin to
the
left and remove it from the spindle Then tighten
the stop
motion knob again.
Disengage the sewing mechanisni and raise the spool
pins
to the vertical position,
Wind ing the Bobbj
DR iso
4
4
,
,,‘.
,
I
A
‘::
I
f
j
i.
I
-.
.
40
to
50
Determined by
weight of fabric
40 to 50
Heavy Fabrics
such as coating, denim, cor
duroy, slipcover fabrics, bed
tickings, lightweight canvas.
Synthetics, Rayon, Acetate
including nylon, orion, dacron,
plastics, etc.
twist
c&D
B & c
twist
50
to
70
Medium Fabrics
such as lightweight woolens,
madras, muslin, brocades,
heavy silks and rayon.
gabardine.
14
0etmmeut
by
thread size
60 to 80
100
90
80
60
or
70
0
to
000
twist
A& B
twist
Needle
Size
Silk
70
to
80
80
to
100
Mercerized
Cotton
Lightweight Fabrics
such as dress silks and cottons,
sheer woolens, shirting, draperies.
such as georgette, chiffon,
batiste, voile, lawn, silk.
Fine Fabrics
Types of Fabrics
-:
-—
For embroidery and darning work, a No. 50 thread
should normally be used.
The same size threads should be used in the needle
and on the bobbin. Some experienced seamstresses
prefer a somewhat thinner bobbin thread. However,
the bobbin thread never should be thicker than the
needle thread.
The appearance of the finished seam is dependent
on the correct relationship between needle, thread
and fabric. Select the proper thread sizes and needles
from this chart.
Recommended Needle
and Thread Sizes
--
-
15
Loosen needle set screw a half a turn and pull old
needle out of needle
clamp. Make sure that the flat side of the shank
faces toward the back
and long groove toward you. Insert new needle into
opening of needle
clamp and push it up as far as it will go. Tighten
needle set screw a.
Bring needle bar tn its highest point and lower sewing
foot.
Changing the Needle
On PfaIf 74 sewing machines, System 130 fl, flat-shank
needles are used
for all ordinary sewing and embroidery work. The last
column in the chart
on page 14 gives you the needle size required for the
material in hand.
Genuine Pfaff needles, System 130 A, are available from
every Pfaff dealer.
Bent or blunt needles should not be used.
Important Facts about Needles
DR863
-
_.__
.
Ii, .
*
16
Bring take-up lever 4 as high as it will go and pass the thread from right to left through the hole at its end. Lead the
thread down and into slot 5. Then thread the needle from front to hack.
Pull the thread between any two of tension discs 3 (see ill, at bottom of p. 17) and jerk it far to the right so that it slips
properly into the slot and under the thread check spring As you do this, press the thread against the casting between
spool and tension.
Raise the presser bar lifter and swing the spool pins up to the vertical position. Place spool 1 on one of the spool pins
and lead the thread behind both scrolls of thread retainer 2 (see ill, at top of p. 17). Seize the thread on the right and left
of the thread retainer and pull it toward you until it snaps into the eyelets. It suffices to draw the thread into the left eyelet.
Upper Threading
r
17
DR 86
*
wiI
I
- _•_%___%•
•••*•
*
-
5
2
3
if
/
—t
I.
DR 860
sewing foot
Hold needle thread lightly in yew left
hand. fw n balance wheel toward you
until the needle moves once down and
to
up again. Lightly pull needle thread
le
need
the
gh
throu
dr ow bobbin thread up
hole Place both threads back under the
Thread
Drawing Up the Bobbin
A
.4
C a a s e
C a a s e
-
The th reads inter lock on the
i
inder side of the
18
Ill
II
--
too loose
Upper tension too tight or lower tnnsion
—-
too tight.
Upper tension too loose or lower tension
sin face of the fabric
the
on
lock
inter
ds
The threa
Sketch II
Sketch I
fobr Ic.
sewing If your tension is nor oct you
Balanced tensions are essential for
w (Ill).
will have perfect scorns as sketched belo
Correct Tension Regulation
fri
.
=*
-
..,
---.
i
for tighter tension.
for looser tension.
V
Ft 8029
19
‘
—
f) 580
--:
—
A
Your upper tension has a third tension disc for two
needle work.
The upper tensijn is so designed that all grarlos of
tension
loose to tight
can be covered with one
complete turn of the tension dial. The numbers on
the tension dial indicate different degrees of tension.
The higher the number, the greater the tension. Only
in very rare cases will it be necessary to reset the
tension. For ordinary sewing, the upper tension should
be set between 3 and 5.
Deter mine whether thn hohbrn thread tension is set for a medium grade
by holding the thread end between thumb and forefinger and letting the
bobbin case hang freely. The tension should be strong enough to keep
the bobbin case from berng pulled down by its own weight. However, as
you jerk your hand slightly, the bobbin case should gradually slide down.
Do riot turn the knurled screw too far to the left to keep it from falling out
Choose the lower tension slightly stronger when doing ornamental stitching
to be sure you always have a nead satin stitch on the right side of the
fabric
Turn it right
\
tension has been set for a medium grade and need not
ordinary sewing operations If a special sowing opera
a looser or tighter tension, turn the small knurled screw
with the tip of your thumb as follows:
Turn it left
The bobbin thread
be adiusterl for all
tion should require
on the bobbin case
Regulating the Thread Tension
s.-.
‘if
It
20
J his feature is ideal for backtacking the beginning or end of a seam and
for darniri rips.
DR 009
To regulate the stitch length, turn the control until the number indicating
the desired stitch length is opposite the mark on the left edge of the slot
(The position of the mark is indicated by an arrow in the illustration).
The numbers on the control indicate the stitch length (the higher the num
her, the longer the stitch). When the control is set on O” the machine
ceases feeding.
The stitch length control serves to regulate the stitch length and to limit
it in sewing backwards.
Stitch Length Regulation
To sew in reverse, simply press the fingertip control down. When the
control is released, the machine resumes forward sewing.
Reverse Sewing
DR 008
.:
DR 867
DR 866
21
Reverse procedure to slip on new foot and tighten screw b securely.
Lift both needle and presser bar to their highest positions and turn sewing
foot thumb screw b to the left. Tilt the foot sideways and pull it down.
Changing the Sewing Foot
‘ -
I
Ij
I
I.,
I.
22
DR 854
c
To raise the machine feed, press the lev’r down
and let it return to its
original posOion.
Remove the hed cover and press the drop fend
ever dOWn sHotwise,
then to the rear and rip (as ndicoted hy the wh’tn
arrow). 3 he levr’r wil
he retained in this position and the fabric will cease
Feeding.
The maclOne feed is dropped for dot ning. hoop
embroidery ard button
sewing.
Dropping the Machine Feed
Remove the sewing foot. Attach darmng
loot No. 93-102826-91 from the
rear. Hold spring clip c so that it is
behind the needle set screw, and
tighten screw 13.
Darning and Embroidery Foot
DR 855
AU-Purpose
Se
Foot
achments”
—
.
_-_4’__
23
AH-purpos
sewing loot
No. 93-100
Page 19.
179-00 is
attached as
instructed on
The transparen
cy of its
sho
e facilitates
mportant to
watch the
all sewing
needle pene
operations wh
trate the fab
ere it is
Special app
ric.
IIcaton
Possb$ibes are
hook under
discussed in
the headrng
the second
“Using Sewing
part of this
Feet and
Att
wing
(with Clear-Vie
w Shoe)
—.p-’’
DR 853
—
In replacing the machine bane, tighten thumb sr’rew
‘
24
DR 852
lightly.
DR 053
A
The principal oiling points are marked by arrows
in the illustrations on these pages.
For removing the face cover see page 26.
From time to time, lubricate the needle bar
frame bearings in the sewing head.
Use Pfaff sewing machinc oil only. Never lubricate machine with animal or vegetable oils.
All moving and rotating paits require regular lubrication. Begin under the bedplate. If you
have a portable machine, tilt it back, loosen the large thumb screw on the underside of the
machine base, and remove the base.
Longevity and smooth machine performance are dependent on regular and proper cleaning
and oiling.
Care and Maintenance
25
Before you begin to oil the mechanism under the bedplate and at the
needlebar end of the machine, remove the dirt and lint which has accumu
lated on these parts.
From time to time, remove the needle p
ate and clean the machine feed
1
with a soft brush. Take a toothpick and remove accumulations of packed
lint Take out the bobbin case and the bobbin and clean the vicinity of the
sewing hook
The raceway in the sewing hook is the most important oiling point. Put
one drop of oil into the raceway each day you sew (see picture at top
ight).
Do not lubricate the bobbin winder
DR 557
4 To oil the zrgag mechanism, remove the fashion
disc and apply a drop of oil to the two marked
oihnq points (see arrows)
DR 887
DR 886
1
[
1
DR 512
I
DR (121
tip
26
Slip tip d into slot e and puSh lace cover
until it snaps into place
Replacing the Face Cover
To change the light bulb or oil the parts
at the needle-bar end, remove the lace
cover by pulling it upwards.
Removing the Face Cover
DR 505
V
The builtin 15—watt sewing light illumin
ates the area of stitching perfectlj.
To change the light hull,, remove the
lace cover, push the bulb into its
socket, turn left, and pull out. When
inserting new liqht bulb, be sure to
slide bulb pins into socket slots. Press
bulb in and turn right.
Changing the Light Bulb
Burrs or sharp edges on needle plate slot.
Hook raceway is jammed with thread
or
needs oilinq
Poor, knotty or rotten thread used.
Thread tension too tight.
The abovementroned may cause thread
brakage.
C a u s e
2. Needle Thread Breaks
Needle too line or too thick for the thread.
Machine threaded improperly.
Needle bent.
Wrong needle.
Needle incorrectly inserted
Cause:
1. Machine Skips Stitches
Trouble Shooting
27
Polish needle plate slot with fine emery
cloth.
Clean and oil hook raceway.
Use good quality threads only.
Adjust tensions as instructed.
See remedies listed under 1. above.
Remedy:
Use correct needle and thread (see chart an
page 14.)
Check and correct threading as instructed
on pages 16 and 17.
Insert new needle.
Choose the correct needle from chart on
page 14. (For ordinary sewing,
use System 130 R needles.)
Push needle up as far as it will go and
be sure that the long groove
faces toward jou, and flat side of shank away
from jou.
Remedy:
I
Feed dog dropped.
Machine does not feed bec
ause stitch length
control set on “0’.
Accumulations of lint pac
ked between
feed teeth.
5. Machine Feeds Improper
ly
Cause:
Pieces of thread between
tenaion discs.
improper tension
Thread too heavy, knotty
or hard.
Bobbin unevenly wound
.
4. Faulty Stitch Formatio
n
Cause:
Bent needle strikes point
of sewing hook.
Needle too thin or thread
too heavy.
Fabric pulls needle so it ben
ds and
atnkes needle plate.
Bobbin case inserted inc
orrectly.
3. Needle Breaks
Cause:
‘&
—
a Afltet 4%.
28
Take off needle plate and
remove lint with a stiff bruah.
Raise feed dog (sea page
20).
Regulate stitch length, as des
ired.
Remedy:
Raise preaaer bar lifter and
remove thread.
correct aize for the needle
and fabric.
Don’t run thread over fin
ger
wh
en
win
din
g the bobbin, but lead it
aiound needle thread tensio
n.
Adjust tensions as instructe
d.
Use only first-rate thread
the
Remedy:
Push bobbin case until
you hear it snap into place.
Replace needle at once
to prevent further damage
.
Use correct needle and thr
ead sizes.
Don’t force the feeding mo
tion. Guide the material
lightly.
Remedy:
wtJbe;...e,e
Remedy:
Use only Plait sewing machine oil
Stop bobbin winder.
Clean and oil hook raceway.
Remedy:
—
never salad oil or glycerine.
Remedy:
Flick lever down (see page 5).
29
The Pfaff rotary hook will not normally jam,
even if the machine should be handled
improperly. If thread should happen
to jam in the hook raceway, the power of the
motor in most instances will be sufficient
mechanism.
to overcome hard working of the
If this action should not free the jammed threa
d, put a drop of oil inp the hook racew
ay, jerk the balance wheel back, then
rock it back and forth.
lhread Jamming
Cause:
Motor disengaging lever raised.
8. Motor Idles
Jerk stitch width lever to ‘0’ and inseit
proper fashion disc.
For straight stitching, too, a fashion disc shou
ld be inserted in the machine (see
pp. 6, 7 and 9).
Wrong fashion disc inserted or none at all.
Cause:
7. Machine Fails to Sew Zigzag or
Ornamental Stitch Desired
Mechanism clogged by interior oil.
Bobbin winder working while sewing.
Hook raceway lacks oil or is obstructed by
pieces of thread.
Cause:
0. Machine Works Heavily
V
Pin or baste closed zipper on wrong
side of fabric. Position of zipper depends
on whether or not you want the edge of
the fabric to overlap the zipper. Turn
fabric to right side. Run a straight seam
close to left edge of zipper, stitch across
end and up the other side in one conti
nuous operation. Use right edge of foot
as a guide.
R 002
-
0 to 4, B
=
0, B =+
30
Attractive tea cosies, slippers, seat
pads and covers can be quilted.
Edge stitcher No. 847 600 used with
the quilting gauge sews parallel rows
of stitching at any distance over the
entire surface of the fabric. Always
guide the gauge finger along the pre
ceding row of stitches.
Machine Setting: A
Quilting
a guide. (To sew narrow parallel
seams, guide fabric edge or prece
ding seam along right edge of sew
ing loot, using no edge guide.)
Sew parallel rows of straight or zig
zag stitches at various distances from
the fabric edge by using adjustable
seam guide No. 847 300 and the edge
stitcher (without quilting gauge). The
seam guide is fastened to the machine
bed with the long thumb screw. For
wider marginal stitching, turn edge
guide half a turn and use low end as
Machine Setting: A
—
Machine Setting: A
0, B
Edge Stitching
(setting see page 6)
Zipper Insertion
Using Sewing Feet and Attachments
DR 003
DR 032
/
F
/
I
Machine Setting: A
Flat Felled Seams
0 or 2. B
two
of fabric They’ are made
Nan ow zigzag stitches are used
pmaes
folded twice
protruding seam allowance is not
Lay pieces together with the wrong sides facmng and the bottom
piece protruding
/B inch Feed both pieces into toiling loot,
as illirsti ated, so that the bottom fabi mc
is toldad over edge of top piece
and stitched down. Make sure that
First Seam
F Tat felled seams usually are straight stitched
For felling on elasticized Fabrics only.
31
DR 049
Open the two pieces, piace them under the
needle right side up, insert seam
ridge into felling foot opening, and stitch down
to the left, Make sure that second
seam is placed close to the edge hut not
beyond it.
‘1 li felTing foot has a needle slot, rather than
a needle hole, to permit zigzag
felling.
S e c o n d S e a m
DR 809
I
‘rl
Fiat felled seams are used to diii ahly jam
in two operations.
El
III
J
Hemrnrnçj
DR 509
DR 870
32
Avoid ugly ends by slow
ing down feeding. To
do this, press the fabric
against the needle plate on
the left side of the foot before
you come to the
end of the hem (see ill, at
bottom),
II you want to hem several
edges, hem first edge to wit
hin about ‘2 of
corner, cut away remaining
portion of bern. as shown in
sketch 2. Then hem
the second edge, as instructed
above.
Before you hem the last
edge, cut away about 1/4” of
the hem sewn first,
as illustrated in sketch 3.
Machine Setting A -r 0
or 2 to 3, 8
‘I he hemmer foot is indispe
nsable if you want to sew
a uniform hem. You
can hem with straight or
zrgag stitches, depending
on the type of fabric
you are using.
Fold over edge of fabric abo
ut 1/8” to facilitate insertio
n into the hemmer
foot Place fabric under hem
mer loot so that the nee
dle stitches in the
material about 1/2” short
of its rear edge and clos
e to the folded edge.
Sew backwards as far as the
rear fabric edge. Take the
work out of the
machine by pulling it forward
. Don’t trim the threads (ske
tch 1).
Draw the fabric into the
scroll of the hemmer by
pulling both threads
backwards Inserting the fab
ric into the 5cr nIl like this
will ensure a neat
hem right from the beginn
ing. Feed fabric so that
the hem edge is in
line with the left edge nI the
hemmer scroll. Don’t cro
wd fabric into the
scroll, but keep scroll well fille
d with fabric at all times
(see ill, at top).
87
Machine Setting: A
Curtains
1 to 3, depending on materia
l; B
0 to 2; B
=
33
Plastic curtains, as are use
d in kitchens and bathrooms,
are sewn with synthetic thre
Place a piece of tissue pap
ad or cotton and a fine nee
er under sticky plastic sheets
dle.
which can be easily rem
sheets from sticking to the
oved after the sewing. To pre
sewing foot, apply a drop of
ven
t plastic
oil to its sole.
Strtch Length: Medium
Machine Setting: A
Plastic Sheets
To finish the edge of synthet
ic curtain fabrics, such as
Diolen, use a matching syn
upper and lower tensions som
thetic thread. If necessary,
ewhat.
ease the
Both these hints should be
adhered to in order to avoid
shrinking of both the thread
To butt seam the variou
and the fabric in the laundry
s sectrons of curtains, procee
.
d as instructed on page 34.
Insert fashion disc A.
=
Stitching Synthetic Materials
Stitch Length: Minimum
-
cc
,
a
MWM
ii
‘4,
-I
Stitch Length: Medium
.
oserl fashion disc B (elastic serpentine stitch)
Elastic Fabrics
4; B
Machine Setting: A
Inserting Patches
DR 582
DR 581
DR 586
it
.
-
\ \ \
36
over
cs with short zig7ag stitches. Sew
Patches are nsrterJ in ordioary fabri
instructed above.
corners twice Other than that, proceed as
, guiding th edge of the sewing foot
again
patch
nd
For added strength, sew niou
along the first seam.
2; B
i Machine Setting A
Stitch Length: Minimum
Insert fashion disc A.
Ordinary Fabrics
Sew
rn length.
down with an elastic serpentine stitch of rneriiii
close to
over corners twice Turn over and trim
1 For additional strength, stitch
sea ins
ing method may be used for jersey
Large holes can be patched quickly. The follow
its grain will match the rest of the
and other elastic fabrics Cut patch so that
lain ic Place the patch over the riamaged area.
0
HRi
nI,q
4; B
—
37
Turn fabric wronq side up. Fold finished edge of woolen fabrics once (Fig. 1),
other thin fabrics twice (Fig. 2) In this latter case there is no need to finish the
edge. It is best to press or baste the hem. Guide the work evenly. Set stitch
width lever A so that needle takes left stitch exactly in the folded edge and right
stitch up to or over the hem edge. When hem is finished, stitches will not be
visible on top side.
Next, follow ths procedure:
Skirts, dresses and ladies coats of medium and heavy-weight fabrics are hem
med with blind stitches. To do this, insert the blindstitch disc and a No. 70 needle.
lJse embroidery thread No. 50 or silk thread that matches the fabric. Ease upper
tension somewhat
Insert fashion disc C.
Stitch Length Maximum
—
B{irrdstitchinq
Machine Setting: A
uj
¶fl
DR 557
1
2
I
r
DR 035
DR 873
91
38
100179
Buttonholes may with the be mode aid of the all purpos
o
sewtng foot. Place the filler cord n the left groove of the
clear-view shoe.
IF you prefer more prominent buttonholes, pull
a filler curd in the guide
groove To get the correct stitch length, sew on
a piece of scrap material.
In makinq buttonholes in soft or loosely woven fabrics
, it is advisable to
place a piece of tissue paper under the material To
strengthen button
holes in tricet and knit fabrics, insert a piece of firmly
woven cotton
material between the fabric layers
When you follow the procedure on the opposi
te page, the bartacks at
each end of your buttonhole will be twice as wide
as a buttonhole seam.
Attach buttonhole foot No. 847 616 and set slide
on buttonhole gauge to
buttonhole length desu ed. The buttonhole is
the right length when hoginning of first seam reaches red end of slide indicat
or (see arrow).
Use only No 50 embroidery and darning thread.
Machine Setting: A
1 1/2 (first notch), B
Stitch Length Almost 0 (for buttonhole seam)
Insert fashion disc A.
Sewing Buttonholes
—
.—,—
-‘..“
Sew fiist side over
a filler cord. When
beginning
of seam reaches
red end of slide
ind
icat
or on
buttonhole gauge,
it is the right leng
th.
Leave
needle in fabric on righ
t side of its throw.
Lift foot. turn Iab,ic
around clockwise, usin
g needle
as a pivot. Pull filler
cord around the nee
dle
to the
left and lay it paralle
l to completed line
of
stitc
hing,
Lower foot and take
one stitch to the left,
Turn dial A until
it is caught in sec
ond notch (or
stops at 4). Make
4 to 6 bartack stitc
hes, slightly
holding the material
to reduce length of
bar.
1
2
3
Instructions for
Buttonholing
‘
7
39
Turn dial A to “O”a
nd make 3 or 4
fastening stitches.
Trim both the sew
ing and filler
threads. Open the
with your seam ripp
buttonhole
er. Be careful not
to injure the bartack
s.
6
—
Turn dial A to sec
ond notch position
(or “4”). Make sec
as instructed above
ond tack,
(under 3).
‘
5
I
— ‘S—’:
Change dial A to
“1 1/2”. Trim filler cor
d at end of first stitc
Sew second row and
h row.
stop about 4 to 6
stitches (1/i6) from end
of first row.
—•-
,“—-.—
4
2
(I)
—
—
-
=
0, B
,
feed dog dropped.
Honks arid eyes are sewn on with
the airl of a special hutton aewrnq
luot No. 847 608, which can he obta
ined Ir era vocir PlaIt dealer.
Don be oh aid to sew on buttons
or rinqs with your Plait J he needle
wont break and the threads will
not get loose either. The latter
may
happen only with ready macto cloth
ing sewn with a chain stitch It won
he wor thwrle to take the machine nut for
aewinq on a single button, hu
yor will appreciate this feature when
sewing lrns of buttons on pillow
and bed covers, on shirts or dress
es, or when fastening rings on cur tabs
etc. There your machine will come in
very handy. Attach all purpose sewing
foot No. 93-100 17900.
Button Sewing
S
\
\
S
40
Place button under button sewing foot
and align so that needle will enter
left hole. et needle stitch through hole
one or two tying stitches. Raise need
and make
le. Turn dial A counter-clockwise, usua
lly to 3, until needle on the right of
is centered over riQht hole. Start
its throw
machine and sew as many zigzag stitc
hes as you deem necessary to faste
securely. Return dial A to 0 and mak
n button
e two or three tying stitches.
When sewing on focrr-hole buttons,
reposition britten and roperit the abov
e process, stitching throcrgh the seco
of lroles.
nd pair
Machine Setting’ A
DR 583
—
4: B
Shell edging makes a nice trimming on handkerchiefs, too.
41
Shell edging is an effective fashion trim on blouses (particularly those
made of delicate, soft fabrics). Fold fabric along desired line. Guide work
SO that needle takes one stitch in the fabric, and lhe
other over its edge.
(As the threads interlock outside the material, its edge is drawn back,
producing the desired shell edging).
Stitch Length: Medium
Insert fashion disc C, and tighten upper and lower thread tensions.
Machine Setting: A
Shell-Edging Made with Blindstitch Disc
You can attach lace edging in one simple operation. Fold the edge of
the fabric about 3
/s” over to the wrong side, following the texture, and
preferably iron it down. Place the straight edge of the lace on the fold of
the fabric and sew it down with narrow zigzag stitches, taking one stitch
into lace and fabric and the other into lace only. Cut off excessive cloth
on the wrong side of the material close to the seam
2: B
Attaching Lace
Machine Setting: A
1382’
DR 564
DR 044
—
‘•
,
F
.
f--s
I
DR 001
Fl B127
*an
A
-
Up to 1
17
B
-
44
Same as above, except that the wing needle
should penetrate the traced
line only when it is on the left of its throw.
Machine Setting A
Irrser t faslrion disc A
Zigzag Hemstitching
P r n c e d r r e
Foiri fabric to mark seamhne or trace
seaniline on fabric. Sew first row
Crude fabric so that wing needle stitches along
traced line At tire end of
tire seam, turn fabric half a trir u nnd sew second
row. Crude fabric in such
a way tirat wirug needle penetrates the needle
holes it has made and
enlarged previously.
Imitation hernstitchinq thus reqrures at least
two operations. If desired,
additional straight or curved ornamental seams
may he stitched paralIe to
the first one. Exciting decorative effects may
be obtained by using van
cnlnr ed embroider y and darning threarls.
Insert twin hemstrtchrng needle, System
130 Zwi-Ho, as iis’ricterl on
page 19 ‘fern out needle set screw a little
further than for ordinary needles,
The thr earl Si7P, threading procedure and
thread tension are the same as
for ording work (see page 45).
Beautiful hemstitchinq effects on blouse
s, dresses, handkerchiefs duilin
and so forth, can be obtained with Pfaff’s
System 130 twin needle. [he
harder the fabric yarn, the more pronounced
the hemstitching will he. F or
this reason, hatiste, nrgandy, peer gette, etc.
are host suited to heiustitch
inq whil woolly fabrics are not r er nrnmended.
St itch ienqth: Mecliurrr to maximum.
Mmhirrrr Settrnq
0. B
Straight-Stitch Hernstitching
insert faairinn dian A
-
ma,
0; B
=
45
Changing the Needle
and the Sewing
Foot
Bring take-up lever to
highest point, loosen
needle set screw a, and
ordinary needle out of
pull
needle clamp. Insert twin
needle into opening of
needle clamp and push
it up as far as it will
go. Make sure that the
side of the shank laces
flat
toward the back, Tighte
n needle set screw
securely.
a
DR 865
Cordnq feet and twin
needles, System 130, are
supplied on special reques
t and at extra cost.
tt.
.,
To cord on your Pfaff
74, use a cording loot
and a twin needle
Twin needles are avail
able for needle distances
of 1.2 (3/64”) 1.6 (1/16”
millimeters
), 1.8, 2.0 (5/64’),
Cording feet are available
in three varieties as
follows:
Pin tucks are made with
cording foot No. 847 680
(7 grooves, 3/64” wide
For narrow cording use
each) and a 1 .2-mm
cording foot No. 847 675
(5 grooves, 1/16” wide
Wider cording is made
each; see ill.) and a
with cording foot No. 847
671 (3 grooves, 5/64”
of 2.0 or 2.5 millimeters
wide each) and a twin
Machine Setting: A
Cording
i
twin needle.
1 6-mm twin needle,
needle with a needle dista
nce
2.5 (3/32”), 30, and 4.0
(5/32”)
-
•ax
-‘‘S.t;
-
—
.
-
—
DR 521
46
Remove the bed slide and pass the filler cord from below through hole g
located in front of the oval needle hole f (see ill, on page 45). Lay the end
of the filler cord back under the cording foot (together with the needle and
bobbin thread ends). Pull a filler cord forward under the bed slide and
place the ball in your lap.
If you want to make cording in filmy fabrics or render your cording more
prominent, Pfaff recommends that you insert a filler cord. Its thickness
depends on the cording size you want,
Filled Cording
Slightly increase the bobbin thread tension, and increase or decrease the
needle thread tension depenrling on the type of fabric used. If the tension
has been set correctly, the bobbin thread should appear as a faint zigzag
line on the other side.
Thread Tension
The bobbin thread is drawn tip as instructed on page 18. To do this, hold both needle threads in your left hand.
Upper Threading
Place a spool of thread on each of the two spool pins. Pass both thread ends through both thread retainer eyelets 2, as
illustrated on page 17. Lead one thread between the rear and center tension discs, and the other between the center and
front tension discs of upper tension 3. Raise take-up lever 4 to its highest position and pass both threads through the hole
at its end. Pull threads into slot 5, and thread each needle from front to back.
Set the machine for a medium stitch length
Thread S z e
Pin tucks and nariow cording are made with a No.50 embroidery thread, wider cording with sewing silk in the needle and
Ofl the bobbin.
Turn sewing loot thumb screw b to the left and take out the sewing foot Slip on cording loot and tighten screw b securely
It is best to tuin out screw b completely if you want to slip on a cording loot with the guide attached
*
DR 473
DR 474
47
OR 475
Attractive cording effects may be obtained by combining horizontal, verti
cal and diagonal tucks or stitching curved tucks (see ill. below).
If you want to turn a corner, leave needle in fabric (up to needle eye only),
lift foot, turn fabric, lower loot, and continue sewing. To stitch an acute
angle, turn fabric halfway, let needle make one stitch, turn fabric all the
way, and resume stitching.
Various Cording Effects
To ensuie uniform spacing between paraflel tucks, place the preceding
seam into one of the grooves of the foot and use it as a guide.
F or a larger spacing between tucks, use the adjustable guide (see ill on
page 46) which is part of every cording foot.
Spacinq between Tucks
DR 053
DR 058 A
Ml
N
I
U
r
‘\
*“
._>
93
0019
0 to 4; B
optional
4F3
Machine embroidery is made with the machine running
at a moderate speed.
The acljoninq designs were made with the acI of the
zigzag disc. To make the design illustrated in the middle,
alternate straight and 7igzag stitching.
Embroidery designs made with this thread ore very
attractive. They have dimensional quality and closely
esemble manual embroidery work.
Buy a coarse, four-ply ombroidery thread in the dos red
colors.
Insert fashion disc A.
Machine Setting: A
Coarse-Thread Embroidery
DR 554
I
•
D
>C)
p.
-.---.
,.
-
.-.-
-
-
-
c_
.
-t
-—
_.d
—
C
•-;
CC
(>
C
—_
-
—
-
—
)
(I)
E
9
—
5
-E
C
:C>
____\;-
r7i
[=:m
DN
wz
L
-
>
•.-—‘
j
••—
—
-
up to 2. B
50
Your Pfaff can do niany additional sewing jobs and turn out beautiful work. See your
Pfaff dealer who will be glad to
advice you on our extensive line of attachments designed to enlarge the range of possible
applications of your machine.
Such additional applications include granite stitching and sewing on wool thread, Interesting
effects can also be obtained
with the multi-stitch ruffler and the bias binder.
Embroidery designs are particularly attractive when sewn with twin needles and different color thread.
The
distance between both needles must not exceed 5/64 inch (Forthreading the twin needles see cording instructions
on page 45).
Beautiful border effects can be produced by combining zigzag, serpentine, and blind stitch designs
Insert fashion discs A to I.
Machine Setting: A
Two-Needle Decorative Sewing
•
•
•
.
.
Foreword
Essential Parts of Machin
e
Fundamentals of Machin
e Operation
Operation of Your Sewing
Machine
Motor Disengaging Mecha
nism
Electrical Information
Straight Stitching
Zigzag Sewing
Fashion Discs
Changing the Fashion Dis
cs
Removing the Bobbin Cas
e
Winding the Bobbin
Inserting a Full Bobbin
into the Bobbin Case
Inserting the Bobbin Cas
e
Recommended Needle and
Thread Sizes
Important Facts about Nee
dles
Changing the Needle
•
Upper Threading
•
Correct Tension Regulat
ion
Drawing Up the Bob
bin Thread
Regulating the Thread
Tension
Stitch Length Regulation
Reverse Sewing
Changing the Sewing
Foot
Dropping the Machine
Feet
•
Darning and Embroider
y Foot
All-Purpose Sewing Foot
(with Clear-View Shoe)
Care and Maintenance
2
3
4
4
S
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
15
16
18
18
19
20
20
21
22
22
23
24
Page
52
.
.
.
Changing the Light Bulb
Removing the Face Cover
Replacing the Face Cover
Trouble Shooting
Zipper Insertion
Edge Stitching
Quilting
Flat Felled Seams
Hemming
Stitching Synthetic Materi
als
Overcasting Edges
Butt Seaming
Darning
Inserting Patches
Blindstitching
Sewing Buttonholes
Button Sewing
Attaching Lace
Shell-Edging Made with Blin
dstitch Disc
Applique Work
Monogram Embroidery
Sewing Monograme
Straight-Stitch Hemstitchin
g
Zigzag Hemstitching
Cording
Coarse-Thread Embroider
y
Ornamental Sewing
Two-Needle Decorative Sew
ing
CONTENTS
.
.
.
41
42
43
43
44
44
45
48
49
50
27
Page
rF
Nr. 20626 engl. (US) W$ 0167
CPFAFFI
Printed n Germany
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