PFAFF 75 Manual

7c
0
0
1
2
3
54
6748
20
21
11
12
22
23
19
16
13
18
17
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Face cover
Take-up lever
Thread retainer
Spool pins
Stitch width lever (Al
Fashion disc
Needle position lever (B(
Bobbin winder
Balance wheel
14
10
II
12
13
14
15
16
17
Stop motion knob
Motor disengaging mechanism
Bobbin winder thread retainer
Reverse teed control
Stitch length control
Free arm
Free arm top cover
ee arm cap
(enclosing transverse rotary hook(
2
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
Sewing foot
Sewing foot thumb screw
Light switch
Needle thread tension
Presser bar litter
Needle set screw
Needle plate
DR 050
Fundamentals of Machine Operation
• Whenever you have to turn the balance wheel, turn it toward you
(counter-clockwise as shown by black arrow).
is tightened before
• Make sure stop motion knob on the balance wheel
you begin sewing.
• Never run a threaded machine unless you have fabric under the sewing
foot.
• Place both threads back under the sewing foot before you put fabric
into the machine.
automatically.
• The machine will feed the material under the sewing foot
work.
the
All you have to do is guide
• Always bring take-up lever to its highest position before you begin and
after you have completed a seam. Failure to observe this rule may
cause the thread to slip out of the needle eye. Also, it is easier to
remove the work with the take-up lever up.
3
DRO5I
DR 506
How to Operate Your Sewing Machine
Engaging the Sewing Mechanism
4 Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob ciockwise (as indicated by
Dlack arrow).
Disengaging the Sewing Mechanism
Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob counter-clockwse (toward
A
you). The sewing mechanism is disengaged for bobbin winding.
The Workplate
The workplate is used to enlarge the working area for ordinary sewing.
Before you attach the workpiate, raise the presser bar lifter and turn the
balance wheel until the take-up lever is at its lowest position (see arrow
at right).
-4
4 Hold workplate level and push
it
between free arm and sewing foot.
Tilt it slightly so that its lugs enter the holes in the machine base (see
arrows in right illustration).
4 Swing down the support and press
Il. at bottom).
DR 878
DR 879
DR 880
4
it firmly against the base plate (see
OP 510
Electrical Information
Push plug 1 into receptacle 2 and plug 3 at other end of cord into the
wall outlet.
Cord 4 leads to the foot control which serves to regi. -te the machine sceed.
DR 558
Motor Disengaging Mechanism
Power-driven machines feature a lever underneath the
serves to swing the motor to its operative position.
lever down. After you have completed sewing, flick
postion in order to return the motor to the inoperative
balance wheel which
To do this, flick the
the lever to its top
position.
With the motor swung out of engagement, all machines set up on treadle
stands can be driven by foot power.
*
Foot Control
Place the foot control under the table or cabinet wthn easy reach of your
foot. Rest the right foot on the control pedal and press.
The harder you press, the faster the machine will run.
5
R 7132
DR 489 B
Straight Stitching
4 For straight-stitch sewing set
Lever A
=
0
Lever B
=
Center i
(For straight stitching, too, a fashion disc should be inserted in the machine
Control G regulates the stitch length. For detailed instructions please refer
to page 20. To backtack the end of a seam, simply depress the finger-tip
control.
DR 009A
6
DR 4894
Zigzag Sewing
If you want to switch from straight (A on ‘0”) to zigzag stitching, insert
the zigzag disc, and turn lever A to desired stitch width (indicated by
numbers 1 to 4).
For most sewing jobs it is best to leave zigzag disc (A) in the machine
so that you can quickly change over from straight to zigzag stitching. Lever
B changes the position of the needle in the needle plate slot. Thus the
st tching can be moved from the center to the left or right of the slot.
as desired.
The
position
of
lever B
(left,
center,
nght) ndicates the position of the needle
n the needle plate slot.
4-
Control G lengthens zigzag
stitches or packs them more
closely together (satin stitch)
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DR 544
Changing the Fashion Discs
Always jerk stitch width lever A to O before you insert or remove a disc. Turn thumb nut R counterclockwise to release
the disc in the zigzag mechanism, then pull it up and take it out.
Push the disc on the stud and rotate it until stud H snaps into one of the slots, Then tighten the thumb nut by turning
clockwise,
it
Set the machine for the desired stitch width and stitch length.
9
DR 862
Removing the Bobbin Case
Raise needle to its highest point and open free arm cover.
Lift latch k with the thumb of your left hand und pull out bobbin case with
bobbin. When you release the latch, the bobbin drops out.
DR 850
10
DR 8S9
Winding the Bobbin
Disengage the sewing mechanism and rase the spool
pins to the vertical position.
Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins and
a bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle, making sure
that the key at its base enters the slot in the bobbin,
Pass the thread through the righthand thread guide,
down and around the thread retainer stud, and up to
the bobbin. Wind a few turns of thread on the bobbin
in clockwise direction. Push the bobbin to the right
and start the machine. The bobbin winder will stop
automatically when the bobbin is full. Press the bob
bin to the left and remove it from the spindle. Then
tighten the stop motion knob again.
The amount of thread to be wound on the bobbin is
regulated by turning the adjusting button accordingly.
Set the button at position A for the minimum amount
of thread, or at position B for the maximum. The button
can be turned to the desired position after loosening
its set screw with a screwdriver.
A
B
\, ./
0
11
(7
i
Inserting a Full Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
R 5867
o
end falls from the top down toward you.
As shown in illustration 1, hold bobbin in left hand so that the thread
0
slot,
Hold the bobbin firmly in the bobbin case and pull the thread into the case
O
the opening at the end of the spring. Leave about
Pull the thread under the tension spring until it emerges from
case.
bobbin
the
from
three inches of thread hanging
0
Hold the case by its open latch so that the bobbin cannot fall out.
and insert bobbin into bobbin case.
1
R 5869
2
R 5870
3
R 5868
4
Inserting the Bobbin Case
Raise takeup lever to its highest point and lift the latch with the
thumb and forefinger of your right hand. Turn bobbin case until
slot points up (see arrow). Place bobbin case on center stud s of
hook.
In replacing the bobbin case, it is best to hold the loose end of
thread so that it will not get jammed between bobbin case and hook.
Release the latch and press against bobbin case until you hear it
snap into place. An improperly inserted bobbin case will cause
needle breakage.
OR 609
13
Types of Fabrics
Mercerized
Cotton
Silk
Needle
Size
80
to
100
0
to
000
twist
60
or
70
Fine Fabrics
such as georgette, chiffon,
batiste, voile, lawn, silk.
Lightweight Fabrics
such as dress silks and cottons,
sheer woolens, shirting, draperies.
70
to
80
Medium Fabrics
such as lightweight woolens,
madras, muslin, brocades,
heavy silks and rayon,
gabardine.
50
to
70
Heavy Fabrics
such as coating, denim, corduroy, slipcover fabrics, bed
tickings, lightweight canvas.
Synthetics, Rayon, Acetate
including nylon, orion, dacron,
plastics, etc.
A&B
twist
B &c
twist
Recommended Needle
and Thread Sizes
The appearance of the finished seam is dependent
on the correct relationship between needle, thread
and fabric. Select the proper thread sizes and needles
trom this chart.
80
The same size threads should be used in the needle
and on the bobbin. Some experienced seamstresses
prefer a somewhat thinner bobbin thread. However,
the bobbin thread never should be thicker than the
needle thread.
90
I
For embroidery and darning work, a No. 50 thread
should normally be used.
H
40
to
50
I
C& D
twist
Determined by
weight of fabric
40 to 50
100
by
thread size
611 to 80
14
Important Facts about Needles
On Pfaff 75 sewing machines, System 130 R, flat-shank needles are used
for all ordinary sewing and embroidery work. The last column in the chart
on page 14 gives you the needle size required for the material in hand.
Genuine Pfaft needles, System 130 A. are available from every Pfaff dealer.
Bent or blunt needles should not be used.
Changing the Needle
Bring needle bar to its highest point and lower sewing foot.
Loosen needle set screw a half a turn WN and pull old needle out of
needle clamp. Make sure that the flat side of the shank faces toward the
back and long groove toward you. Insert new needle into opening of needle
clamp and push it up as far as it will go. Tighten needle set screw a.
15
Upper Threading
the spool pins
pins up to the vertical position. Place spool 1 on one of
Raise the presser bar lifter and swing the spool
on the right and left
thread
the
Seize
17).
of
top
p.
ill,
at
(se
r
retaine
2
and lead the thread behind both scrolls of thread
left eyelet.
snaps into the eyelets. It suffices to draw the thread into the
of the thread retainer and pull it toward you until it
so that it slips
(see ill, at bottom of p. 17) and jerk it far to the right
Pull the thread between any two of tension discs 3
t the casting between
agains
thread
the
press
this,
do
you
.
As
spring
properly into the slot and under the thread check
spool and tension.
Lead the
the thread from right to left through the hole at its end.
Bring take-up lever 4 as high as it will go and pass
back.
to
front
from
thread down and into slot 5. Then thread the needle
16
r
6OO Q
oR 615
Correct Tension Regulation
Balanced tensions are essential for sewing. if your tension is correct, you
will have perfect seams as sketched below (liFt.
Sketch I
fabric.
oause
Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight.
Sketch II
oause
The threads interiock on the underside of the
—
-
The threads interlock on the surface of the fabric.
—
Upper tension too tight or lower tension too loose.
A
Drawing Up the Bobbin
Thread
Hold needle thread lightly in your left
hand. Turn balance wheel toward you
until the needle moves once down and
up again. Lightly pull needle thread to
draw bobbin thread up through the needle
hole. Place both threads back under the
sewing foot.
I
III
Regulating the Thread Tension
The bobbin thread
be adjusted for all
tion should require
on the bobbin case
Turn
Turn
it
it
DR
tension has been set for a medium grade and need not
ordinary sewing operations. jf a special sewing opera
a looser or tighter tension, turn the small knurled screw
with the tip of your thumb as follows:
left
right
w\
for looser tension
for tighter tension.
Determine whether the bobbin thread tension is set for a medium grade
by holding the thread end between thumb and forefinger and letting the
bobbn case hang freely. The tension should be strong enough to keep
the bobbin case from being pulled down by its own weight. However, as
you jerk your hand slightly, the bobbin case should gradually slide down,
Do not turn the knurled screw too far to the left to keep it from falling out.
Choose the ower tension slightly stronger when doing ornamental stitching
to be sure you always have a nead satin stitch on the right side of the
fabric.
V
A
The final stitch appearance can be regulated by the
upper tension dial, as follows:
for looser tension.
Turn left
‘
for tighter tension.
Turn right
The upper tension is so designed that all grades of
can be covered with one
loose to tight
tension
complete turn of the tension dial. The numbers on
the tension dial indicate different degrees of tension.
The higher the number, the greater the tension. Only
in very rare cases will it be necessary to reset the
tension, For ordinary sewing, the upper tension should
be set between 3 and 5.
Your upper tension has a third tension disc for two
needle work,
.—
P8029
19
—
DR 008
Stitch Length Regulation
and to limit
The stitch length control serves to regulate the stitch length
backwards.
it in sewing
higher the num
The numbers on the control indicate the stitch length (the
the machine
O
on
is
set
control
the
When
stitch).
the
longer
the
ber,
ceases feeding.
indicating
To regulate the stitch length, turn the control until the number
the slot
of
edge
left
the
on
mark
the desired stitch length is opposite the
illustration).
the
in
an
arrow
by
indicated
is
mark
(The posit:on of the
Reverse Sewing
control down. When the
To sew in reverse, simply press the fingertip
sewing.
forward
s
resume
machine
the
d,
release
control is
or end of a seam and
This feature is ideal for backtacking the beginning
for darning rips.
20
0R009
I
DR ion
Changing the Sewing Foot
ns and turn sewing
Lift both needle and presser bar to their highest positio
pull it down.
and
ys
sidewa
the
foot
Tilt
foot thumb screw b to the left.
securely.
Reverse procedure to slip on new foot and tighten screw b
DR 1010
21
OR 855
Dropping the Machine Feed
This is particularly important for hoop embroidery. darning and button
sewing.
To drop the machine feed, turn the drop feed control under the free arm
toward you as far as it will go. The fabric will cease feeding.
To raise the machine feed, turn the drop feed control back to its initial
position. You should hear it snap into place.
Darning and Embroidery Foot
Remove the sewing foot. Attach darning foot No, 93-102 826-91 from the
rear. Hold spring clip c so that it is behind the needle set screw, and
tighten screw b.
22
DR 854
All-Purpose Sewing Foot
(with Clear-View Shoe)
All-purpose sewing foot No. 93-100 179-00 is attached as instructed on
page 21.
The transparency of its shoe facilitates all sewing operations where it is
important to watch the needle penetrate the fabric.
Special application possibilities are discussed in the second part of this
book under the heading “Using Sewing Feet and Attachments’.
23
Care and Maintenance
are dependent on regular and proper cleaning and
Longevity and smooth machine performance
oilng.
All
lubricate machine with animal or vegetable oils.
Use Pfaff sewing machine oil only. Never
tion,
moving and rotating parts require regular lubrica
DR 053
and swing
To oil mechanism in free arm, remove sewing foot, raise needle
with a screw
out free arm cap. Turn out the top cover screw (see arrow)
wise of the
driver. Lift front end of top cover and pull the latter Out length
arm.
To replace and secure top cover, proceed in reverse order.
in the sewing
From time to time, lubricate the needle bar frame bearings
head.
DR 605
DR 606
24
I To oil the zigzag mechanism, remove the fashion
disc and apply a drop of oil to the two marked
oiling points (see arrows).
Do not lubricate the bobbin winder.
DR 054
The raceway in the sewing hook is the most important oiling point. Put one
drop of oil into the raceway each day you sew.
feed
From time to time, remove the needle plate and clean the machine
packed
of
s
accumulation
remove
with a soft brush. Take a toothpick and
lint. Take out the bobbin case and the bobbin and clean the vicinity of the
sewing hook.
Before you begin to oil the mechanism under the arm top cover and at
the needle-bar end of the machine, remove the dirt and lint which have
accumulated on these parts.
DR 611
DR 610
25
Changing the Light Bulb
The built-in 15-watt sewing light illuminates the area of stitching perfectly.
To change the light bulb, remove the face cover, push the bulb into its
socket, turn left, and pull out. When inserting new light bulb, be sure to
slide bulb pins into socket slots. Press bulb in and turn right.
V
Removing the Face Cover
To change the light bulb or oil the parts
at the needle-bar end, remove the face
cover by pulling it upwards.
Replacing the Face Cover
Slip tip d into slot e and push face cover
up until t snaps into place.
DR 505
26
Trouble Shooting
1. Machine Skips Stitches
Cause:
Remedy:
Needle incorrectly inseted.
groove
Push needle up as far as it will go and be sure that the long
you.
from
faces toward jou, and flat side of shank away
Wrong needle.
Choose the correct needle from chart on page 14. (For ordinary sewing,
jse System 130 R needles.)
Needle bent,
Insert new needle.
Machine threaded improperly.
Check and correct threading as instructed on pages 16 and 17.
Needle too fine or too thick for the thread.
Use correct needle and thread (see chart an page 14.)
2. Needle Thread Breaks
Cause:
Remedy:
The above-mentioned may cause thread
breakage.
See remedies listed under 1. above.
Thread tension too tight.
Adjust tensions as instructed.
Poor, knotty or rotten thread used.
Use good quality threads only.
Rook raceway is jammed with thread or
needs oiling.
Clean and oil hook raceway.
Burrs or sharp edges on needle plate slot.
Polish needle plate slot with fine emery cloth.
27
3. Needle Breaks
Ca use
Remedy:
Bent needle strikes point of sewing hook.
Replace needle at once to prevent further damage.
Needle too thin or thread too heavy.
Use correct needle and thread sizes.
Fabric pulls needle so it bends and
strikes needle plate.
Bobbin case inserted incorrectly.
Don’t force the feeding motion. Guide the material lightly.
Push bobbin case until you hear it snap into place.
4. Faulty Stitch Formation
Cause:
Remedy:
Improper tension.
Adjust tensions as instructed.
Thread too heavy, knotty or hard.
Use only first-rate thread
Bobbin unevenly wound,
Don’t run thread over finger when winding the bobbin. (For
threading the machine see page 11).
Pieces of thread between tension discs.
Raise presser bar lifter and remove thread.
—
the correct size for the needle and fabric.
5. Machine Feeds Improperly
Cause:
Remedy:
Feed dog dropped.
Raise feed dog (see page 22).
Machine does not feed because stitch length
control set on ‘O.
Accumulations of lint packed between
feed teeth.
Regulate stitch length, as desired.
Take off needle plate and remove lint with a stiff brush.
28
6. Machine Works Heavily
Cause:
Remedy:
Hook raceway lacks oil or is obstructed by
pieces of thread.
Clean and oil hook raceway.
Mechanism clogged by inferior oil.
Use only Pfaff sewing machine oil
Bobbin winder working while sewing.
Stop bobbin winder.
never salad oil or glycerine.
7. Machine Fails to Sew Zigzag or
Ornamental Stitch Desired
Cause:
Remedy:
Wrong fashion disc inserted or none at all.
Jerk stitch width lever to “O and insert proper fashion disc.
inserted in the machine (see pp. 6, 7 and 9).
For straight stitching, too, a fashion disc should be
8. Motor Idles
Cause:
Motor disengaging lever raised.
Remedy:
Flick lever down (see page 5).
Thread Jamming
machine should be handled improperly. If thread should happen
The Pfaff rotary hook will not normally jam, even if the
instances will be sufficient to overcome hard working of the
most
in
the
motor
of
power
the
raceway,
to jam in the hook
mechanism.
of oil into the hook raceway, jerk the balance wheel back, then
If this action should not free the jammed thread, put a drop
rock it back and forth.
29
Using Sewing Feet and Attachments
(setting see page 6)
847
/
Zipper Insertion
Machine Setting: A
—
0
B
=
Pin or baste closed zipper on wrong side of fabric. Position of zipper
depends on whether or not you want the edge of the fabric to overlap the
zipper. Turn fabric to rignt side Run a straight seam close to left edge of
zipper, stitch across end and up the other side in one continuous operation.
Use right edge of foot as a guide.
/7/
OR 002
Quilting
Machine Setting: A
.
=
0
B
=
Edge stitcher No. 847 600 used with the quilting gauge sews parallel rows
of stitching over the entire surface of the fabric. Always guide the gauge
finger along the preceding row of stitches.
Attractive tea cosies, slippers, seat pads and covers can be quilted.
DROO3A
30
S7 56i
Flat Felled Seams
Machine Setting: A
=
0 or 2 (opt onal)
B
—
are
Flat felled seams are used to durably Join two pieces of fabric. They
made in two operations.
are
Flat felled seams usually are straight-stitched. Narrow zigzag stitches
used for felling on elasticized fabrics only.
First Seam
DR 075
Lay pieces together with the wrong sides facing and the bottom piece
protruding 1/ inch. Feed both pieces into felling foot. as illustrated, so
that the bottom fabric is
folded over edge of top
piece and stitched down.
Make sure that protrud
ing seam allowance is not
folded twice.
Second Seam
Open the two pieces, place them under the needle right side up, insert
seam ridge into felling foot opening, and stitch down to the left, Make sure
that the second seam is placed close to the edge but not beyond it.
The felling foot has a needle slot, rather than a needle hole, to permit
zigzag felling.
31
DR 049
887 551
Hemming
B
Machine Setting: A = 0 or 2 to 3 (optional)
sew a uniform hem. You
The hemmer foot is indispensable if you want to
on the type of fabric
ing
depend
s,
stitche
zigzag
or
t
can hem with straigh
you are using.
te insertion into the hemmer
Fold over edge of fabric about ‘Is” to facilita
the needle stitches in the
that
so
foot
er
hemm
under
foot. Place fabric
close to the folded edge.
and
edge
material about 1/2” short of its rear
Take the work out of the
edge.
fabric
rear
the
far
as
as
ards
backw
Sew
(sketch 1).
threads
the
trim
Don’t
d.
forwar
machine by pulling it
both threads back
pulling
er
by
hemm
the
of
Draw the fabric into the scroll
will ensure a neat hem
wards. Inserting the fabric into the scroll like this
hem edge is in line with
right from the beginning. Feed fabric so that the
into the scroll, but
fabric
crowd
Don’t
the left edge of the hemmer scroll.
top).
at
ill,
(see
all
times
at
fabric
with
filled
well
keep scroll
41
DR 073
the fabric
Avoid ugly ends by slowing down feeding. To do this, press
come to the
against the needle plate on the left side of the foot before you
end of the hem (see ill, at bottom).
about ‘/2” of
If you want to hem several edges, hem first edge to within
sketch 2. Then hem
corner, cut away remaining portion of hem, as shown in
the second edge, as instructed above.
1/4” of the hem sewn first,
Before you hem the last edge. cut away about
as illustrated in sketch 3
44
DR 074
32
838 954
Overcasting Edges
u
Machine Setting: A
I
=
2 to 4 (optional)
838 958
Butt Seaming
=
3 or 4, B
—
wide zigzag stitch and
Overcasting prevents frayed edges. Use a long,
fabric and the other
the
sew edge with the needle taking one stitch into
is
cut and before the
fabric
after
st
edges
over its edge. You may overca
joined
nieces are
DR 081
Machine Setting: A
B
=
easily may be butted
Two similar pieces of fabric which do not ravel
may be mended
sheets
bed
Worn
s.
stitche
zigzag
with
together and joined
edges of the
ed
this way. Cut out worn center strip. Place the selvag
edges
abutted
the
that
so
foot
sewing
the
remaining pieces of sheet under
zigzag stitches.
wide
close,
with
them
Join
.
needle
the
under
d
are centere
Hem raw edges of sheet,
33
DR
045
DR 076
Darning without Darning Hoops
You will really appreciate the free arm of your Pfaff 75 when you darn
tubular clothing, such as underpants, sleeves, socks or stockings without
darn ng hoops.
4 Trim ragged edges of hole with the fabric gra n, then stitch back and
forth across the hole from one sde to the other with the machine running
at high speed.
I
Now sew back and forth over preceding work with short stitches taken
lengthwise of the arm. This anchors threads n the unworn area around the
hole Always hold fabric taut.
34
DR
077
DR 057
DR 056
DR 559
Darning
0, B
Machine setting; A
hoop, the damaged area being in the
Prepare your machine for darning as instructed on page 22. Place fabric into darning
center of the hoop. Hoops may be obtained from your Pfaff dealer.
ches. Make sure the stitches are ta
section. This job can be done with
Triangular Tears
ken right into the good material.
foot
too
out
Triangular tears are best darned by
placing the torn section between
Small Holes
Long Rips
hoops and making close stitches
Darn small and medium-size holes
work
Move
may be darned with the normal sew
across and lengthwise.
the
by trimming ragged edges with
ing foot and without hoops. Raise
under the needle with both hands.
fabric grain. First stitch back and forth
dog and use forward-reverse
feed
across the hole from one side to the
Thin Spots
control.
feed
other with the machine running at
Remember that a stitch in time sa
high speed. Then turn the fabric at
ves nine” and reinforce spots that
right angles and sew back and forth
have worn thin with short stitches
over preceding work with short stit
made lengthwise and across worn
-
.
35
838 934
Inserting Patches
Elastic Fabrics
Machine Setting: A
4, B
=
Stitch Length: Medium
Insert fashion disc B (elastic serpentine stitch.
Large holes can be patched quickly. The following method may be used for jersey
the
and other elastic fabrics. Cut patch so that its grain will match the rest of
fabric. Place the patch over the damaged area.
Sew
it
down with an elast:c serpentine stitch of medium length.
4 For additional strength. stitch over corners twice. Turn over and trim close to
seams.
Ordinary Fabrics
Machine Setting: A
=
2: B
St tch Length: Minimum
Insert fashion disc A.
Sew over
Patches are inserted in ordinary fabrics with short zigzag stitches
above.
instructed
as
proceed
corners twice. Other than that,
sewing foot
For added strength, sew around patch again, guiding the edge of the
along the first seam.
DR 582
DR 581
DR 566
36
DR 567
3OO79
Bhndstitching
Machine Setting: A
=
4: B
i
Stitch Length: Maximum
Insert fashion disc C.
weight fabrics are hem
Skirts, dresses and ladies coats of medium and heavyand a No. 70 needle.
disc
itch
med with blind stitches. To do this, insert the blindst
fabric. Ease upper
the
s
matche
that
thread
silk
Use embroidery thread No. 50 or
hat.
tension somew
Next, follow this procedure:
woolen fabrics once (Fig. 1),
Turn fabric wrong side up. Fold finished edge of
is no need to finish the
there
case
other thin fabrics twice (Fig, 2). In this latter
evenly. Set stitch
work
the
Guide
hem.
the
edge. It is best to press or baste
exactly in the folded edge and right
width lever A so that needle takes left stitch
is finished, stitches will not be
stitch up to or over the hem edge. When hem
vsible on top side.
37
DR 082
I Sewing Buttonholes
to
Attach buttonhole foot No. 847 616 and set slide on buttonhole gauge
be
when
length
right
is
the
buttonhole length desired. The buttonhole
ginning of first seam reaches red end of slide indicator (see arrow below).
at
When you follow the procedure on the onposite page. the bartacks
seam
buttonhole
a
wide
as
as
twice
each end of your buttonhole will be
Machine Setting A
-
1
(2) (first nntch)
B
Stitch Length (for buttonhole seam) Almost 0
Insert fashion disc A.
Use ony embroidery and darn nq thread No. 50.
If you prefer more prominent buttonholes, pull a Slier cord in the guide
a
groove or in left toe of foot. To get the correct stitch length. sew on
woven
]oosely
or
soft
in
piece of scrap material. In raking hjttonholes
fabrics, it is advisable to place a piece of tissue pape under the material
of
To strengthen buttonholes in tricot and knit fabrics, insert a piece
layers
fabric
firmly woven cotton mater ai between the
r1
Burtonr’oles may he mide with the ad of the all purpose
of the
sewing foot. P ace the filler cord in the left groove
clear-view shoe
U
DR C35
38
I S
0
©
0
©
J
©
nstructi o ns for Butto nhol n g
I
Sew first side over a filler cord. When beginning of seam
reaches red end of slide indicator on buttonhole gauge, it is the
right length. Leave needle in fabric on right side of its throw.
2
Lift foot, turn fabric around clockwise, using needle as a pivot.
Pull filler cord around the needle to the left and lay it parallel
to completed line of stitching. Lower foot and take one stitch
to the left.
3
Turn dial A until it is caught in second notch (or stops at 4).
Make 4 to 6 bartack stitches, slightly closing together button
hole end to reduce length of bar.
39
4
Change dial A to “11/2” (2). Trim filler cord at end
of first stitch row. Sew second row and stop about
4 to 6 stitches from end of first row.
5
Turn dial A to second notch position (or 4’). Make
second tack, as instructed above.
6
Turn dial A to
stitches.
7
Trim both the sewing and filler threads. Open the
buttonhole with your seam ripper. Be careful not
to injure the bartacks.
‘0” and make 3 or 4 fastening
DR 583
‘..._—-
Button Sewing
insert fashion disc A.
Pfaff. The needle
Dont be afraid to sew on buttons or rings with your
The latter may
either.
wont break and the threads will not get loose
stitch. It wont
chain
a
with
sewn
clothing
happen only with ready-made
button, but
single
a
on
sewing
for
out
machine
the
take
to
be worthwile
on pillow
buttons
of
lines
you wel appreciate this feature when sewing
curtains
on
rings
fastening
when
or
dresses,
or
nd bed covers, on shirts
all-purpose
Attach
handy.
very
in
come
will
machine
your
There
etc.
sewing foot No. 93-100 1 79-00. Set stitch length control on 0.
sewing
Hooks and eyes are sewn on with the aid of a special button
dealer.
Pfaff
your
from
foot, No. 847 608, which can be obtained
Machine Setting: A
-
0
B
=
•, feed dog dropped.
Place button under button sewing foot and align so that
make one or two tying stitches. Raise needle. Turn dial A
throw is centered over right hole. Start machine and sew
button securely. Return dial A to 0 and make two or three
needle will enter left hole. Let needle stitch through hole and
counter-clockwise, usually to 3, until needle on the right of its
as many zigzag stitches as you deem necessary to fasten
tying stitches.
process, stitching through the second pair
When sewing on four hole buttons, reposition button and repeat the above
of holes,
40
DR 044
Attaching Lace
Machine Setting: A
—
2; B
1-
the edge of
You can attach lace edging in one simple operation. Fold
texture, and
the
following
side,
the fabric about /“ over to the wrong
the fold of
on
lace
the
of
t
edge
straigh
the
Place
preferably iron t down.
one stitch
the fabric and sew it down with narrow zigzag stitches, taking
ive cloth
excess
off
Cut
only.
lace
into lace and fabric and the other into
seam.
the
to
close
material
the
of
on the wrong side
Shell-Edging Made with Blindstitch Disc
Machine Setting: A —4; B
=
Stitch Length: Medium
s.
Insert fashion disc C, and tighten upper and lower thread tension
s (particularly those
Shell edging is an effective fashion trim on blouse
line, Guide work
desired
along
made of delicate, soft fabrics), Fold fabric
over its edge.
other
the
and
fabric,
in
the
stitch
so that needle takes one
is drawn back,
edge
its
material,
the
outside
interlock
threads
the
(As
producing the desired shell edging).
Shell edging makes a nice trimming on handkerchiefs, too.
41
DR 564
‘‘
-
.,
-
DR 033
838 5$
Applique is very effective on buster
suits. p nafores, bibs, frocks, covers,
wall hangings, or wherever a gay note
is desired.
Applique Work
Machine Setting A
2
to 2. B
=
Fill out sma I, but essential sections of
desiqn with granite stitches
Insert fashion disc A.
Applique is easy and modern.
Trace design on wrong side of fabric and baste
a piece of contrasting material to right side
Outline design on wrong side with a norrow
and the motive will appear on
zigzag stitch
I
/
V
—
right s de
Trim excess material close to the seam and
sew over edges of applique with a medium-wide
satin stitch. If you want to give the design a
plastic effect, use buttonhole foot No. 847 616
or all-purpose sewing foot, flick lever B to the
left and satin-stitch over a filler thread (see
also page 38).
R 7167
42
R 7220
DR 038
Monogram Embroidery
Machine Setting: A
=
3 to 4. B
Insert fashion disc A.
Feed dog drooped. Script letters are best for monogram embroidery without
a sewing foot. It requires a little practice. You will soon enjoy creative
embroidery once you have learned to move the material at a uniform rate.
The fabric should be held taut in the hoops and the presser bar lifter
lowered. Let the needle stitth into the fabric at the beginning of your
design and draw bobbin thread up through the fabric. Hold both thread
your
ends and sew over outline, moving hoops slowly and evenly. To give
stitches
monogram dimensional quality, embroider outline twice. Be sure
are closely spaced.
838 954
3 OO79
Machine Sethng:A= 2h/2to3,B
needle plate
The procedure below is primarily used for block letters. Set
sewing foot and
so that feed dog Feeds the material. Attach alIpurpose
making sure that
set machine for satin stitch. Sew outlines of monogram,
letters.
of
joints
seams do not overlap at
DR 031
43
F
Straight-Stitch Hemstitching
rsert fashion d sc A.
Machine Sethng: A
0 B
•
St tch length: Medium to maximum
Insert twin hemstitching needle, System 130 Zw Ho, as nstructed on
page 15. Turn out needle set screw a little further than for ordinary needles
The thread size, threading procedure and thread tension are the same as
for cording woric (see page 45).
Beautiful hemstitching effects on blouses, dresses, handkerch efs, doilies
and so forth, can be obtained with Pfaff’s System 130 twin needle The
harder the fabric yarn, the more pronounced the hemstitching will be For
this reason, batiste. organdy. georgette, etc are best suited to hemstitch
ig, while woolly fabrics are not recommended
P r o c e d u r e
Fold fabric to mark seamline or trace seamline on fabric. Sew first row.
Guide fabric so that wing needie st,tches along traced line. At the end of
the seam turn fabric half a turn and sew second row Guide fabric in such
a way that w ng needle penetrates the needle holes it has mode and
enlarged previously.
Imitation hemstitching thus requires at least two operat ons. If desired,
additional straight or curved ornamental seams may be st tched parailel to
the first one Exciting decorative effects may be obtained by using van
colored embroidery and darning threads.
Zigzag Hemstitching
Machine Setting’ A
Up to 11 : B
‘I
asert fashion osc A
Same as above, except that the wing needle should penetrate the tracea
line only when it is on the left of its throw.
DR 001
R 8427
44
Cording
Machine Setting: A
=
0
B
=
To cord on your Pfaff 75, use a cording Foot and a twin needle.
Twin needles are available for needle distances of 1.2
millimeters.
(/64”),
1.6
(u/i6’),
1.8. 2.0
(/64”),
2.5
(/32”),
3.0, and 4.0
(!32”)
Cording feet are available in three varieties, as follows:
Pin tucks are made with cording foot No. 847 680 (7 grooves,
/a4”
wide each) and a 1.2-mm twin needle.
For narrow cording use cording foot No. 847 675 (5 grooves,
u!16
wide each: see ill.) and a 1.6-mm twin needle.
Wider cordirg is made with cording foot No, 847 671 (3 grooves,
of 2.0 or 2.5 millimeters.
/o4”
wide each) and a twin needle with a needle distance
Cording foot and twin needles, System 130 R, are supplied on special
request and at extra cost.
—
a
b
Changing the Needle and the Sewing Foot
Bring take-up lever to highest point, loosen needle set screw a, and pull
ordinary needle out of needle clamp. Insert twin needle into opening of
needle clamp and push it up as far as it will go. Make sure that the flat
side of the shank faces toward the back. Tighten needle set screw a
securely.
45
DRO2I
foot. Slip on cording foot and tighten screw b
Turn sewing foot thumb screw b to the left and take out the sewing
securely.
to slip on a cording foot with the guide attached.
it is best to turn out screw b completely if you want
Thread Size
wider cording with sewing silk in the needle
Pin tucks and narrow cording are made with a No. 50 embrcidery thread,
end on the bobbin.
Set the machine for a medium stitch length (about 4).
Upper Threading
Place a spool of thread on each of the two
as illustrated on page 17. Lead one thread
and front tension discs of upper tension 3.
the hole at its end. Pull threads into slot 5
openings 2.
spool pins. Pass both thread ends through both thread retainer
center
between the rear and center tension discs, and the other between the
through
threads
both
pass
and
position
highest
its
to
4
lever
take-up
Raise
and thread each needle from front to back.
hold both needle threads in your left hand.
The bobbin thread is drawn up as instructed on page 18. To do this,
Thread Tension
decrease the
Slightly increase the bobbin thread tension, and increase or
If the tension
needle thread tension depending on the type of fabric used,
faint zigzag
has been set correctly, the bobbin thread should appear as a
line on the other sde.
Filled Cording
cording more
If you want to make cording in filmy fabrics or render your
Its thickness
prominent Pfsff recommends that you insert a filler cord,
depends on the cording size you want.
from below through
Swing away the free arm cap and pass the filler cord
on page 32). Lay
hole g lacated in front of the oval needle hole f (see ill,
(together with the
the end of the filler cord back under the cording foot
forward through the
needle and bobbin thread ends). Pull the filler cord
the ball in your lap.
opening in the free arm cap, close this cap and place
46
DR 521
DR 058
Spacing between Tucks
To ensure uniform spacing between parallel tucks, place the preceding
seam into one of the grooves of the foot and use it as a guide.
For a larger spacing between tucks, use the adlustable guide (see ill, on
page 46) which is Dart of every cording foot.
Various Cording Effects
Attractive cording effects may be obtained by combining horizontal, vertical
and diagonal tucks or stitching curved tucks (see ill, below).
If you want to turn a corner, leave needle in fabric (up to needle eye only),
lift foot, turn fabric, lower foot, and continue sewing. To stitch an acute
angle, turn fabric halfway, let needle make one stitch, turn fabric all the
way, and resume stitching.
DR 473
DR 475
OR 474
47
DR 058 A
DR 554
93
00179
1W
Coarse-Thread Embroidery
9
ift,
Mach:ne Setling: A
—
0 to 4; B
=
optional
Insert fashion disc A.
desired
Buy a coarse. four-piy embroidery thread in the
colors.
very
Embroidery designs made with this thread are
closely
and
quality
sional
dimen
have
They
ve.
attracti
resemble manual embroidery work.
the
The adjoining designs were made with the aid of
,
middle
In
the
ted
Ilustra
design
the
ma,ce
To
zigzag disc.
alternate straight and zigzag stitching.
g
Machine embroidery is made with the machine runnin
ate
speed.
at a moder
4A
48
DR 059
93100179
Ornamental Sewing
You can make exciting fashion stitch designs by alternating straight and
zigzag stitching varying stitch length, stitch width or needle position by
hand. This will be easy after you have had sufficient practice. Some of the
designs you can make are illustrated below.
For ornamental sewing, use all purpose sewing foot or zgzag sewing foot
No. 838954.
V
Interesting two-needle effects can be obtained by using a 1 6-mm twin
needle (see page 40) and different color thread. For twin-needle sewing,
the stitch width dial should not be turned beyond “1 ‘/2”.
49
R
5414
838 954
Stitching Synthetic Materials
Curtains
Machine Setting: A
=
1 to 3, depending on material; B
=
Stitch Length: Minimum
Insert fashion disc A.
To finish the edge of synthetic curtain fabrics, such as Diolen, use a matching synthetic thread. If necessary, ease the
upper and lower tensions somewhat.
Both these hints should be adhered to in order to avoid shrinking of both the thread and the fabric in the laundry.
To butt seam the various sections of curtains, proceed as instructed on page 33.
Plastic Sheets
Machine Setting: A
r=
0 to 2: B
=
Stitch Length: Medium
Plastic curtains, as are used in kitchens and bathrooms, are sewn with synthetic thread or cotton and a fine needle.
Place a piece of tissue paper under sticky plastic sheets which can be easily removed after the sewing. To prevent plastic
sheets from sticking to the sewing foot, apply a drop of oil to its sole.
50
TwoNeedIe Decorative Sewing
Maclime Setting: A
=
up to 2; B
=
+
Insert fashion discs A to I.
Embroidery designs are particularly attractive when sewn with twin needles and different color thread. The
distance between both needles must not exceed 5/64 inch. (For threading the twin needles see cording instructions on page 46).
Beautiful border effects can be produced by combining zigzag, serpentine, and blind-stitch designs.
Your Pfaff can do many additional sewing jobs and turn out beautiful work. See your Pfaff dealer who will be glad to
advice you on our extensive line of attachments designed to enlarge the range of possible applications of your machine.
Such additional applications include granite stitching and sewing on wool thread. Interesting effects can also be obtained
with the multi-stitch ruffler and the bias binder.
51
CONTENTS
Page
Page
Foreword
Essential Parts of Machine
Fundamentals of Machine Operation
Operation of Your Sewing Machine
Workplate
Motor Disengaging Mechanism
Electrical Information
Foot Control
Straight Stitching
Zigzag Sewing
Fashion Discs
Changing the Fashion Discs
Removing the Bobbin Case
Winding the Bobbin
inserting a Full Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
Inserting the Bobbin Case
Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes
Important Facts about Needles
Changing the Needle
Upper Threading
Correct Tension Regulation
Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread
Regulating the Thread Tension
Stitch Length Regulation
Reverse Sewing
Changing the Sewing Foot
Preparing Your Machine for Darning
Darning and Embroidery Foot
All-Purpose Sewing Foot (with Clear-View Shoe)
Care and Maintenance
Changing the Light Bulb
Removing the Face Cover
Replacing the Face Cover
Trouble Shooting
Zipper Insertion
Quilting
Flat Felled Seams
Hemming
Overcasting Edges
Butt Seaming
Darning without Darning Hoops
Darning
Inserting Patches
Blindstitching
Sewing Buttonholes
Button Sewing
Attaching Lace
Shell-Edging Made with Blindstitch Disc
Applique Work
Monogram Embroidery
Sewing Monograms
Straight-Stitch Hemstitching
Zigzag Hemstitching
Cording
Coarse-Thread Embroidery
Ornamental Sewing
Stitching Synthetic Materials
Two-Needle Decorative Sewing
.
.
•
.
4
5
5
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
15
16
18
18
19
20
20
21
22
23
23
26
.
.
.
.
.
•
.
.
.
52
26
27
30
30
31
32
33
33
34
35
• 36
37
38
• 40
41
41
42
43
43
44
44
45
48
49
50
51
•
.
">