PFAFF 92 Instruction book

a
a
CPFAFFi
Automatic 92
INSTRUCTIONS
FOREWORD
Your dream has come true.
Your are now the proud owner of a Pfaff Automatic 92, the sewing machine which will enable you to master
all
ordinary sewing and darning jobs that may come up in a home. In addition, your machine can sew a large number
of
beautiful decorative designs completely automatically.
This instruction book will help you understand the machine and give you valuable tips to make sewing mare
fun
for you.
Even if you are an experienced seamstress, you will find this book a valuable guide to easy sewing.
Follow these simple instructions and familiarize yourself with the exclusive features of your machine. You will
find
sewing exciting on your easy-to-operate Pfaff 92.
If you have any sewing problems, picce conaci your Pfaff dealer. He will be glad to help you at any time.
G. M. PFAFF AG
Karisruhe-Durlach Branch
51i
6
\
7
[4
I
21
1 7—___—22
DR 556
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Face cover
Take-up lever
Thread retainer
Spool pins
Stitch width lever )A)
Foshion disc
Needle position lever (B)
Bobbin winder
9
to
11
12
13
14
15
Balance wheel
stop motion knob
Motor disengaging
mechanism
Stitch length control
Reverse Feed control
Bed slide
Pfoff rotary sewing hook
2
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
Dual-purpose needle plate
Sewing foot thumb screw
Light switch
Needle thread tension
Presser bar lifter
Needle set screw
Sewing foot
OR 050
t
/Uat.411W-
• Whenever you have to turn the
balance wheel, turn it toward you
(counter-clockwise as shown by black
arrow).
• Make sure stop motion knob on
the balance wheel is tightened
before you begin sewing.
• Never run a
1 threaded machine unless you have
fabri under the
sewing foot.
• Place both threads back under
the sewing foot before you put
fabric into the machine.
The machine will feed the material
under the sewing foot auto
matically. All you have to do is guide
the work.
L1!1
• Always bring take-up lever to its
highest position before you begin
and after you have completed a seam
.
Failure to observe this rule may caus
e the thread to slip out of the
needle eye. Also, it is easier to remo
ve the work with the take.up
lever up.
3
DR 05
F
OR 506
Qjetion
o6 icti $winy ,Madine
Engaging the Sewing Mechanism
.4 Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob clockwise.
Disengaging the Sewing Mechanism
Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob counter-clock
wise
(toward you). The sewing mechanism is then disengaged for bobbin
wining.
Electrical Information
Power Drive and Sewlight
Push plug 1 into receptacle 2 on bock of machine, and plug 3 at other
end of card into the wall outlet. Cord 4 leads to the foot control.
Foot-driven machines
have merely a sewlight cord whose plug is pushed into the wall outlet.
To switch on the sewlight, push button on face cover. Mount driving
belt. Before you drop the machine, remove the belt from the stand
wheel, pulling it to the right.
4
\
1
f.
Motor Disengaging Mechanism
Power-driven machines feature a lever underneath the
balance wheel
which serves to swing the motor to its operativ& position.
To do this,
flick the lever down. After you have completed sewing, flick
the lever
to its top position in order to return the motor to th inop
erative
position.
With the motor swung out of engagement, all machines set
up on
treadle stands can be driven by foot power.
Foot Control
4
Place the foot control under the cabinet within easy
reach of your foot.
Rest the right foot on the control pedal and press
. The harder you press,
the faster the machine will run.
On some sewing cabinets, the foot control cord can
be passed through
the opening in the bedplate extension.
Sewing Speed
The Pfoff rotary hook enables you to sew at spee
ds of over 2OO stitches
a minute. Such high speeds are ideal for straight
stitching operations.
Wide zigzag stitches and Automatic embroidery work
require o lower
speed which is obtained by depressing the foot cont
rol only slightly.
R7132
5
I
1j
4 For troighi-stitch sewing set:
Lever A = 0
Lever B = Center+
(For straight stitching, too, a fashion disc should
be inserted in the
machine.)
F:
Control G regulates the stitch length. For detaile
d instructions please
refer to page 20. To backtock the end of a seam,
simply depress the
finger-tip control.
F
[.
I:
6
F
F
—
DR4B9A
lJqa9 $ewIi.
-
insert
If you want to switch from straight (A on “0”) to zigzag stitching,
ted by
the zigzag disc, and turn lever A to desired stitch width (indica
numbers 1 to 4).
the machine
For most sewing jobs it is best to leave zigzag disc (A) in
stitching.
zigzag
to
t
straigh
from
over
y
change
quickl
so that you can
slot.
plate
Lever B chanes the position of the needle in the needle
right
or
ft
the”4e
to
center
the
Thus the stitching can be moved from
of the slot, as desired.
The position of lever B (left, center,
right) indicates the position of the
needle in the needle plate slot.
4—
.
Control G lengthens zig
zag stitches or packs them
more closely together (sa
tin stitch).
.1
-4
V I
II—
7
F
j
Aiitcmati 9ashitn 7
jscj
Functional Stitches
Three exchangeable fashion discs are furnish
ed with each machine.
These discs are used to make the zigzag
stitch, the elastic serpentine
stitch, and the blindstitch, and are marked
as follows:
Disc A
zigzag stitch
Disc B = elastic serpentine stitch
Disc C
blindstitch
Ornamental Stitches
Fashion discs D, E, F and G serve to produce
various decorative designs.
Countless pattern variations are possible by
changing both the stitch
length and the stitch width.
8
DR 544 A
RJ
ise to re
cs
mb nut R counter-clockw
Changing the Fashion Dis
remove a disc. Turn thu
or
ert
ins
you
ore
bef
r A to “0”
Always erk stitch width leve
and take it out,
mechanism, then pull it up
zag
zig
n the thumb nut by
the
in
lease the disc
of the slots. Then tighte
one
into
ps
sna
H
stud
stud and rotate it until
Push the disc onto the
turning it clockwise.
stitch length.
desired stitch width and
Set the machine for the
9
GR 014
9
2emiwtn
t4! in
66 Caie
o
3
?
Turn the balance wheel until the needle has risen clear of the needle
hole, lift front end of bed slide and pull.
Ii
It
Lift latch k with the thumb of your left hand and pull out bobbin case
with bobbin. When you release the latch, the bobbin drops out.
DR 013
10
I
iOmn?tnj th
tn
6
c
3
7
6
Disengage the sewing mechanism (see page 4) and flick
presser bar lifter to highest position. Raise the spool pins
to the vertical position. Place spool of thread on one of the
spool pins and set bobbin on bobbin winder spindle so that
the key at base of spindle enters slot in bobbin.
Threading the Machine
Pass the thread from pool 1 through both front holes of
thread retainer 2 and thece to the bobbin on the bobbin
winder spindle.
Since the upper thread is passed through the rear holes
of the four-hole thread retainer, you can wind the bobbin
from a second spool without unthreading the needle.
DR 549
Before you drop the machine into the cabinet or place it
in the carrying case (portable machines) the spool pins
should be swung forward to the horizontal position.
11
NV
—---..----
3iseung
t
6
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6
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uiit’ the ?3c66j, Ca5e
As shown in illustration 1, hold
bobbin in left hand so that the
thread end falls from the top
toward you, and insert bobbin into
down
bobbin case.
Hold the bobbin firmly in the bob
bin case and pull the thread into
the case slot.
Pull the thread under the tension spri
ng until it emerges from the ope
Leave about three inches of thre
ning at the end of the spring.
ad hanging from the bobbin
case.
Hold the’ case by its open latch
so that the bobbin cbnnot fall
out.
CD
R 58S7
t.stt
,,
1
R 5869
2
R 5870
3
R5868
4
1!
::
•
.LJiiwZttflJ
th 73t,66in Ca.c
with’
and lift the latch
to its highest point
lever
take-up
Raise
Turn bobbin case
of your right hand.
forefinger
and
the thumb
case on center
arrow). Place bobbin
(se
up
pointS
until slot
stud s of hook.
loose end
best to hold the
bobbin case, it is
the
case
replacing
bobbin
In
jammed between
it will not get
that
so
thread
of
against bobbin case
latch and press
the
Release
inserted bobbin
and hook.
place. An improperly
into
snap
it
until you hear
breakage.
case will cause needle
DR 015
13
F
—
——
w-
-_ —
Types of Fabrics
Mercerized
Cotton
Silk
to
0
to
000
twist
Fine Fabrics
such as georgette, chiffon,
batisie, voile, lawn, silk.
Lightweight Fabrks
such as dress silks and
cottons, sheer woolens,
shirting, droperies. ,
100
70
to
80
A & B
twist
mHu2n?1e
Needle
Size
/lJee21e
an?
‘hea? 5ie.c
-or
70
The appearance of the finished seam is dependent
on the correct relationship between needle, thread
and fabric. Select the proper thread sizes and
needles from this chart.
80
‘5
Medium Fabrics
such as lightweight
woolens, madras, muslin,
brocodes, heavy silks
and rayon, gabardine.
50
to
70
B&C
twist
90
The same size threads should be used in the needle
and on the bobbin. Some experienced seamstresses
prefer a somewhat thinner bobbin thread. However,
the bobbin thread never should be thicker than the
needle thread.
Heavy Fabrics
such as coating, denim,
corduroy, slipcover fabrics
bed tickings, lightweight
canvas.
Synthetics, Rayon, Acetate
including nylon, orIon,
dacron, plastics, etc.
40
to
50
C&D
twist
Determined by weight
of fabric 40 to 50
100
Determined
by thread size
60 to 80
14
For embroidery and darning work, a No. 50 thread
should normally be used.
I
czan 9aas a6ciit 7Vee1s
are
System 130 R, flat-shank needles
On Pfoff 92 sewing machines,
colbmn
last
The
and embroidery work.
used for all ordinary sewing
for the
you the needle size required
gives
14
in the chart on page
available
are
R,
130
System
needles,
material in hand. Genuine Pfaff
needles should not be used.
blunt
or
Bent
dealer.
Pfaff
from every
ChanjinfJ th /\ket&
point and lower sewing foot.
Bring needle bar to its highest
out of needle
a turn and pull old needle
Loosen needle set screw a half
the bock
toward
faces
side of the shonk
clomp. Make sure that the flat
needle
of
opening
into
needle
Insert new
a.
and long groove toward you.
screw
set
it will go. Tighten needle
clomp ond push ii up as far as
15
t4ii ‘7ha?mnq
Raise the spool pins to the vertical position and place
a spool of thread on one of them. Lace the thread rough
the
two rear openings of thread retainer 2 (see illustration).
Pull thread between any two of tension discs 3, as illustrated,
and jerk it far over to the right so that it slips properly
into the slot and under the thread che& spring. At the same
time, press the thread between spool and tension agains
t
the top of the machine.
Bring take-up lever 4 as high as it will go and pass thread
from right to left through the hole at its end and into
slot
at left of thread guide 5. Then thread needle, front to
back.
16
LI
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I
Cczect c7ensi,n 7cyuta
ttcn
Balanced tensions are
essential for sewing.
If your tension is
you will hove perfect
correct,
seams as sketched belo
w (Ill).
Sketch I
The threads interlock
on the underside of
fabric.
the
—
Cause
:
Upper tension too loose
or lower tension too tigh
t.
Sketch II
The threads interlock
on the surface of the
fabric.
—
Caus
Upper tension too tigh
t or lower tension too
loose.
DR 046
th
3o6&
A
Hold needle thread ligh
tly in your left
hand. Turn balance
wheel toward you
until the needle moves
once down and
up again. Lightly
pull needle thread
to drawbobbin thre
ad up through the
needle hole. Place
both threads back
under the sewing foo
t.
H
III
18
jjtatin the ‘7hea 7ensicn
The bobbin thread tension has been set for a medium grade and need
not be adjusted for all ordinary sewing operations. If a special sewing
operation should require a looser or tighter tension, turn the small
knurled screw on the bobbin case with the tip of your thumb as follows:
for looser tension.
Turn it left
for tighter tension.
Turn it right
Determine whether the bobbin thread tension is set for a medium grade
by holding the thread end between thumb and forefinger and letting the
bobbin case hang freely. The tension should be strong enough to keep
the bobbin case from being pulled down by its own weight. However, as
you jerk your hand slightly, the bobbin case should gradually slide
down. Do not turn the knurled, screw too far to the left to keep it from
falling out. Choose the loweF tension slightly stronger when doing
ornamental stitching to be sure you always have a neat satin stitch on
the right side of the fabric.
-
V
A
The upper tension is so designed that all grades of
can be covered with one
loose to tight
tension
complete turn of the tension dial. The numbers on
the tension dial indicate different degrees of tension.
The higher the number, the greater the tension. Only
in very rare cases will it be necessary to reset the
tension. For ordinary sewing, the upper tension
should be set between 3 and 5.
Your upper tension has a third tension disc for two
needle work.
—
19
—
A.ernjth
ji(aticn
The stitch length control serves to regu
late the stitch length and to
limit it in sewing backwards.
The numbers on the control indicate
the stitch length (te higher the
number, the longer the stitch). Whe
n the control is set on “0”, the
machine ceases feeding.
To regulate the stitch length, turn the cont
rol until the number indicating
the desired stitch length is opposite
the mark on the left edge of the
slot. (The position of the mark is indicated
by an arrow in the illustration).
To sew in reverse, simply press the finge
r-tip control down. When the
control is released, the machine resumes
forward sewing.
This feature is ideal for backtccking the
beginning or end of a seam
and for darning rips.
20
-
-
-
-
r---;
Fi.
OR 042
Chanyin9 the
$eI(in9
9cct
highest positions and turn
Lift both needle and presser bar to their
foot sideways and -pull
the
Tilt
sewing foot thumb screw b to the left.
it down.
I
1$
Ii
I,
P1 !
tighten screw b securely.
Reverse procedure to slip on new foot and
DR043
21
—
-r
‘—
—
7!2ainq 4jcu ,41ach
ine
Z’aniny
Remove the sewing
foot and the bed slid
e. Lift front end of
plate and tilt out.
needle
Turn needle plate hal
f a turn so that roi
sed portion is at the
(see illustration) and
front
replace. Press down stu
d and replace bed
Thread the needle
slide.
with darning wool
and lower presser bar
Now you can embro
lifter.
ider and darn withou
t presser foot, movin
work freely by hand.
g the
22
—
—
t-
DR 047
ci?iiig 9cct
6
mnj an m
Remove the sewing foot. Attach darning foot No. 93-100 154-91 from ihe
rear. Hold spring clip c so that it is behind the needle set screw, and
tighten screw b.
At17)tit,s
$,vin
9cct
(with Clear-View Shoe)
All-purpose sewing foot No. 93-1 00 179-00 is attached as instructed on
page 21.
The transparency of its shoe facHitates all sewing operations where it
is important to watch the needle penetrate the fabric.
Special application possibilities are discussed in the second part of this
book under the heading “Using Sewing Feet and Attachments”.
0R588
23
I
-
Ca an /i1aIntenanc
Longevity and smooth machine performance are dependent on regular and proper
cleaning and oiling.
Use Pfaff sewing machine oil only. Never lubricate maiine with animal or vegetable
oils.
All moving and rotating parts require regular lubricatioii. Begin under the bedplate.
If you have a portable machine, tilt it back, loosen the large thumb screw on the
underside Qf the machine base, and remove the base.
In replacing the machine base, tighten thumb screw
lightly.
A
From time to time, lubricate the needle bar
frame bearings in the sewing head.
For removing the face cover see page 26.
The principal oiling points ore marked by
arrows in the illustrations on these pages.
DR 590
-
1;i
DR 589
4
remove the
To oil the zigzag mechanism,
oil to the
of
drop
a
y
appl
and
fashion disc
s).
two marked oiling points (see arrow
:
er.
Do not lubricate the bobbin wind
g point.
hook is the most important oilin
re at
pictu
The raceway in the sewing racew
(see
sew
you
day
ay each
Put one drop of oil into the
top right).
ine
needle plate and clean the mach
From time to time, remove thetoothpick and remove accumulations of
feed with a soft brush. Take a in case and the bobbin and clean the
packed lint. Take out the bobb
vicinity of the Sewing Hook.
at the
anism under the bedplote and
Before you begin to oil the mech remove the dirt and lint which has
ine,
mach
needlebar end of the
accumulated on these parts.
25
DR 587
——
II
GR024
Chaiijinq the biqht 73ut6
The built-in 15-watt sewing light illuminates the area of stitching
perfectly. To change the light bulb, remove the face cover, push the
bulb into its socket, turn left, and pull out. When inserting sew light
bulb, be sure to slide bulb pins into socket slots. Press bulb in and
turn right.
V
)
9
7Zeiucomn
the 9ate Côoe
To change the light bulb or oil the
parts at the needle-bar end, remove
the face cover by pulling it upwards.
rIL
i.
eitacmny the ‘ae Ccae
5
Slip tip d into slot e and push face
cover up until it snaps into place.
26
0R512
-
DR505
L.
1
r
1. Machine Sldps Stitches
Cause:
Remedy:
Needle incorrectly inseçted.
Push needle up as far as it will go and be sure that the long groove
faces toward yOu, and flat side of shank away from you.
Wrong needle.
Choose the carrect needle from chart on page 14. (For ordinary
sewing, use System 130 R needles.)
Needle bent.
Insert new needle.
Machine threaded improperly.
Check and correct threading as instructed on pages 16 and 17.
Needle too fine or too thick for the thread.
Use correct needle and thread (see chart on page 14).
2. Needle Thread Breaks
Cause:
Remedy:
The above mentioned may cause thread
breakage.
See remedies listed under 1. above.
Thread tension too tight.
Adjust tensions as instructed.
Poor, knotty or rotten thread used.
Use good quality threads only.
Hook raceway is jammed with thread or
needs oiling.
Clean and oil hook raceway.
Burrs or sharp edges on needle plate slot.
Polish needle plate slot with fine emery cloth.
In
tij
Ij
¶
j
3. Needle Breaks
Cause:
Bent needle strikes point of sewing hook.
Needle too thin or thread too heovy.
strikes
Fabric pulls needle so it bends and
needle plate.
Bobbin case inserted incorrectly.
4. Faulty Stitch Formation
Cause:
Improper tension.
Thread too heavy, knotty or hard.
Bobbin unevenly wound.
.
Pieces of thread between tension discs
5. Machine Feeds Improperly
Cause:
h lenqth
Machine does not feed because stitc
control set on “0”.
Accumulations of lint packed between
feed teeth.
Remedy:
er damage.
Replace needle at once to prevent furth
Use correct needle and thread sizes.
material lightly.
Don’t force the feeding motion. Guide the
place.
Push bobbin case until you hear it snap into
Remedy:
Adjust tensions as instructed.
for the needle and fabric.
Use only first-rate thread the correct size
ing the bobbin, but lead
Don’t run thread over finger when wind
it around needle thread tension.
—
d.
Raise presser bar lifter and remove threa
Remedy:
Regulate stitch length, as desired.
with a stiff brush.
Take off needle plate and remove lint
28
6. Machine Works Heavily
Couse:
Remedy:
Hook raceway locks oil or is obstructed by
pieces of thread.
Clean and oil hook raceway.
Mechanism clogged by inferior oil.
Use only Pfoff sewing machine oil
Bobbin winder working whfle sewing.
Stop bobbin winder.
—
never salod oil or glycerine.
7. Machine Fails to Sew Zigkag or
4
Ornamental Stitch Desired
Cause:
Remedy:
Wrong fashion disc inserted or none at all.
Jerk stitch width lever to “0” and insert proper fashion disc.
j,..
7 and 9).
For straight stitching, too, a fashion disc should be inserted in the machine (see pp. 6,
4
8. Motor Idles
Cause:
Remedy:
Motor disengaging lever raised
Flick lever down (see page 5).
Thread Jamming
improperly. If thread should
The Pfaff rotary hook will not normally jam, even if the machine should be handled
sufficient to overcome hard
be
will
instances
most
in
the
motor
of
the
power
happen to jam in the hook raceway,
working of the mechanism.
raceway, jerk the balance wheel
If this action should not free the jammed thread, put a dop of kerosene into the hook
back, then rock it back and forth.
tIl
‘
29
J JiLl
9
(-‘LcIn
$Qw1n9 et an
(setting see page 6)
Zipper Insertion
Machine Setting: A
DR 032
,,4tta4menLc
Edge Stitching
84
0; B
0 to 4; B
Machine Setting: A
—.
Sew parallel rows of straight or
zigzag stitches at various distances
from the fabric edge by using ad
justable seam guide No. 847 300
and the edge stitcher (without
qçilting gauge). The seam guide
is fastened to the machine bed
with the long thumb screw. For
wider marginal stitching, turn edge
guide half a turn and use low end
asa guide. (To sew narrow parallel
seams, guide fabric edge or prece
ding seam along right edge of
sewing foot, using no edge guide.)
Pin or baste closed zipper on wrong
side of fabric. Position of zipper de
pends on whether or not you want the
edge of the fabric to overlap the zip
per. Turn fobçic to right side. Run a
straight seam close to left edge of
oss end and up the
1
zipper; stitch ac
other side in one continuous operation.
Use right edge of foot as a guide.
V
r
Quilting
Machine Setting: A 0; B *
Edge stitcher No.847600 used with
the quilting gauge sews parallel
rows of stitching at any distance
over the entire surface of the fabric.
Always guide the gauge finger
along the preceding row of stitches.
F
Attractive tea cosies, slippers, seat
pads and covers can be quilted.
J DROO2
DR 003
30
I
-
—fl---
—-
847 541
Flat Felled Seams
Machine Setting: A
0 or 2; B
+
They are made
bly join two pieces of fabric.
Flat felled seams are used to dura
in two operations.
stitches are
straight-stitched. Narrow zigzag
Flat felled seams usually are
fabrics only.
used for felling an elasticized
DR 048
m piece pro4 First Seam
wrong sides facing and the botto
Lay pieces together with the
so that the
d,
trate
illus
s into felling foot, as
truding ‘Is inch. Feed both piece
over
bottom fabric is folded
d
stitche
and
piece
edge of top
g
udin
protr
that
sure
down. Make
d
folde
not
is
ance
allow
seam
twice.
I,
q1
Second Seam
seam
r the needle right side up, insert
Open the two pieces, place them unde
that
sure
stitch down to the left. Make
ridge into felling foot opening, and
but not beyond it.
second seam is placed close to the edge
g
than a needle hole, to permit zigza
r
rathe
slot,
le
need
The felling foot has a
felling.
31
D49
IM
847 551
Hemming
Machine Setting: A
=
U or 2 to 3; B
.
if you want to sew a uniform hem
The hemmer foot is indispensable
type
the
on
g
ndin
depe
hes,
g stitc
You can hem with straight or zigza
corner of th fabric to facilitate
the
off
Clip
g.
usin
are
you
c
of fabr’
Feed fabric so that the raw edge
insertion into the hemmer foot curl.
the
the hemmer foot. If you feed less,
is in line with the left edge of
.
show
will
edge
raw
the
fabric will not be folded twice and
OR 508
the fabric
ing down feeding. To do this, press
I Avoid ugly ends by slow
re
side of the foot befo you come
against the needle plate on the left
to the end of the hem.
I
F
D509
32
_838954
Stitching Synthetic Materials
Curtains
Machine Setting: A
ito 3, depending on material; B
Stitch Length: Minimum
:
Insert fashion disc A.
Diolen, use a matching synthetic thread. If necessary, ease the
To finish the edge of syntetic curtain fabrics, such as
upper and lower tensions somewhat.
shrinking of both the thread and the fabric in the laundry.
Both these hints should be adhered to in order to avoid
ted on page 34.
To butt seam the various sections of curtains, proceed as instruc
Plastic Sheets
Machine Setting: A = 0 to 2; B
Stitch Length: Medium
sewn with synthetic thread or cotton and a fine needle.
Plastic curtains, as are used in kitchens and bathrooms, are
can be easily removed after the sewing. To prevent
Place a piece of tissue paper under sticky plastic sheets which
of
oil to its sole.
drop
a
apply
plastic sheets from sticking to the sewing foot,
33
.1•
—
OR 037
838 954
Overcasting Edges
Machine Setting: A
=
2 to 4; B
=
Overcasting prevents frayed edges. Use a long wide zigzag stitch and sew
edge with the needle taking one stitch into the fabric and the other over its
edge (normal tension setting). You may overcast edges after fabric is cut and
before the pieces are joined.
I
838 954
Butt Seaming
3or4; B
Two similar pieces of fabric which do not rovel easily may be butted together
and joined with zigzag stitches. Worn bed sheets may be mended this way.
Cut out worn center strip. Place the selvaged edges of the remaining pieces
of sheet under the sewing foot so that the abutted edges are centered under
the needle. Join them with close, wide zigzag stitches to obtain a neat and
flat seam. Hem raw edges of sheet.
Machine Setting: A
34
F
DR 057
DR 056
Darning
d area
0, B = +
darning hoop, the damage
Machine setting: A
and 23. Place fabric into
22
es
pag
d
on
cte
tru
ins
ff dealer.
darning as
Prepare your machine for hoop. Hoops may be obtained from your Pfa
rk with short
being in the center of the
n. over precedingsurwo
tio
sec
rn
wo
stitches are
oss
acr
the
e
and
lengthwise
stitches. Make
good material.
donewithoutfoot,too.
be
the
can
into
ht
Triangular Tears
job
rig
s
Thi
en
tak
t darned by
Triangular tears are bes
n between
tio
sec
n
tor
the
g
all Holes
cin
pla
e holes Long Rips
se stitches Sm
clo
g
kin
ma
the normal
small and medium-sizwith the
and
n
Dar
hoops
rk
wo
may be darned with t hoops. Set
es
Move
hou
wit
by trimming ragged edgh back and
across and lengthwise.both hands.
and
t
foo
ing
sew
l, or sewing,
fabric grain. First stitc
under the needle with
needle plate in its norma
one side
reverse feed
rdwa
for
forth across the hole from
use
position and
machine running
the
h
wit
Thin Spots
er
oth
the
to
control.
in time saves
the fabric at
Remember that “a stitch ts that have
at high speed. Then turn
forth
and
k
spo
bac
rce
nfo
sew
rei
and
and
les
e”
nin
right ang
hes made
worn thin with short stitc
35
-
r
-
r
u
838 954
Inserting Patches
Elastic Fabrics
4; 8 =
Machine Setting: A
Stitch Length: Medium
Insert fashion disc B (elastic serpentine stitch).
Large holes can be patched quickly. The following method may be used for
jersey nd other elastic fabrics. Cut patch so that its grain will match the rest
of the fabric. Place the patch over the damaged area.
F:
Sew it down with an elastic serpentine stitch of medium length.
For additional strength, stitch over corners twice. Turn over and trim close
to seams.
Ordinary Fabrics
Machine Setting: A
2; 8
Stitch Length: Minimum
Insert fashion disc A.
Patches are inserted in ordinary fabrics with short zigzag stitches. Sew over
corners twice. Other than that, proceed as instructed above.
For added strength, sew around patch again, guiding the edge of the sewing
foot along the first seam.
DR582
DR 581
08566
36
r
1*
DR 567
31COS
BIindstitchng
Machine Setting: A
=
4; B
=
Stitch Length: Maximum
Insert fashion disc C.
Skirts, dresses and ladies’ coats of medium and heavy-weight fabrics are
hemmed with blind stitches. To do this, insert the blindstitch disc and a No. 70
needle. Use embroidery thread No. 50 or silk thread that matches the fabrlt
Ease upper tension somewhat.
Next, follow this procedure:
Turn fabric wrong side up. Fold finished edge of woolen fabrics once (Fig. 1),
other thin fabrics twice (Fig. 2). In this latter case there is no need to finish the
edge. It is best to press or baste the hem. Guide the work evenly. Set stitch
width lever A so that needle takes left stitch exactly in the folded edge and
right stitch up to or over the hem edge. When hem is finished, stitches will not
be visible on top side.
37
Sewing Buttonholes
2 (first notch); B
Machine Setting A = 1V
seam)
Stitch Length: Almost 0 (for buttonhole
Insert fashion disc A.
thread.
Use only No. 50 embroidery and darning
set slide cn buttonhole gauge
Attach buttonhole foot No. 847616 and
nhole is the right length when
to buttonhole length desired. The butto
end of slide indicator (see arrow).
beginning of first seam reaches red
the opposite page, the bartacks
When you follow the procedure on
twice as wide as a buttonhole
be
will
at each end of your buttonhole
seam.
nholes, pull a filler cord through
If you prefer more prominent butto
correct stitch length, sew on a
the
the hole in left toe of foot. To get
en
buttonholes in soft or loosely wov
piece of scrap material. In making
the
r
unde
r
pape
e
tissu
piece of
fabrics, it is advisable to place a
tricot and knit fabrics, insert a
in
es
nhol
butto
n
gthe
stren
To
material.
between the fabric layers.
piece of firmly woven cotton material
I
the aid of the allButtonholes may be made with filler cord in the left
the
e
Plac
foot.
ng
sewi
ose
purp
groove of the clear-view shoe.
.
9’IOO79
38
.
Instructions for Buttonholing
E)
Sew first side over a filler cord. When beginning
of seam reaches red end of slide indicator on
buttonhole gauge, it is the right length. Leave
needle in fabric on right side of its throw.
2
Lift foot, turn fabric around clockwise, using
needle as a pivot. Lower foot, take one stitch to
the left, pull filler cord taut and lay it parallel
to completed line of stitching.
3 Turn dial A until it is couht in second notch (or
stops at 4). Make 4 to 6 bortock stitches, slightly
holding the material to reduce length of bar.
4 Change dial A to “11/2’. Trim filler cord at end of first stitch
row. Sew second row and stop about 4 to 6 stitches (/io”)
from end of first row.
5 Turn dial A to second notch position (or “4”). Make second
tack, as instructed above (under 3).
6 Turn dial A to “0” and make 3 or 4 fastening stitches.
7 Trim both the sewing and filler threads. Open the buttonhole
with your seam ripper. Be careful not to injure the bartocks.
4
39
r
DR 583
Button Sewing
.
Pfoff. The needle
Dorc’t be afraid to sew on buttons or rings with your
Thetlatter may
either.
loose
get
not
will
threads
the
and
breok
won’t
stitch. It wont
chain
a
with
sewn
g
clothin
made
readywith
happen only
button, but
single
a
on
sewing
for
e
out
machin
the
be worthwiie to take
on pillow
s
button
of
lines
sewing
when
you will appreciate this feature
ng rings on curtains
and bed covers, on shirts or dresses, or when fasteni Attach all-purpose
etc. There your machine will come in very handy.
sewing foot No. 93-100 179-00.
button sewing
Hooks aO)d eyes are sewn on with the aid of a special
Pfoff dealer. Turn
foot, No. 847 608, which can be obtained from your
portion is at the front
the needle plate half a turn so thot the raised
of the needle
(see picture at the bottom of page 22). The raised portion
hole.
needle
ted
elonga
an
s
feature
plate
r
I
t.
h hole
that needle will enter left hole. Let needle stitch throug
Place button under button sewing foot and align so
on the
needle
until
to
3,
usually
wise,
r-clock
. Turn dial A counte
and make one or two tying stitches. Raise needle
neces
deem
you
machine and sew as many zigzag stitches as
right of its throw is centered over right hole. Start
s.
to 0 and make two or three tying stitche
sary to fasten button securely. Return dial A
h the second
button and repeat the above process, stitching throug
When sewing on four-hole buttons, reposition
pair of holes.
g
40
OR 044
838 954
Attaching Lace
Machine Setting: A
=
2; B
=
operation. Fold the edge
You can attach lace edging in one simple
following the texture,
side,
of the fabric about %“ over to the wrong
of the lace onthe
edge
straight
the
and preferably iron it down. Place
stitches, taking
zigzag
narrow
with
down
it
fold of the fabric and sew
only. Cut off
lace
into
other
one stitch into lace and fabric and the
to the seam.
close
material
the
excessive cloth on the wrong side of
Shell-Edging Made with Blindstitch Disc
4; B = +
Machine Setting: A
Stitch Length: Medium
lower thread tensions.
Insert fashion disc C, and tighten upper and
an blouses (particularly those
Shell edging is an effective fashion trim
along desired line. Guide
made of delicate, soft fabrics). Fold fabric
and the other over
fabric,
the
work so that needle takes one stitch in
its edge is drawn
material,
the
outside
interlock
its edge. (As the threads
back, producing the desired shell edging).
handkerchiefs, too.
Shell edging makes a nice trimming on
41
0R564
DR 033
838 954
Applique is very effective on buster
suits, pinafores, bibs, frocks, covers,
wall hangings, or wherever a gay
note is desired.
Applique Work
1/2 to 2; B
Machine Setting: A
Insert fashion disc A.
Applique is easy and modern.
of fabric and
Trace design an wrong side
l to right
baste a piece of contrasting materia
with a
side
ng
wro
side. Outline design on
will
ve
moti
th
and
narrow zigzag stitch
Fill out small, but essential sections
of design with granite stitches.
V
—
appear on right side.
seam and
Trim excess material close to the
medium
a
with
e
liqu
sew over edges of app
the
give
to
t
wan
wide satin stitch. If you
t
foo
e
hol
design a plastic effect, use button
t, flick
Nr. 847 66 or all-purpose sewing foo
a filler
r
ove
itch
n-st
sati
lever B to the left and
thread (see also page 38).
R 7167
42
R 7220
DR 038
Monogram Embroidery
Machine Setting: A
=
3 to 4; B
=
Insert fashion disc A.
4
Prepare machine ts for darning. Script letters are best for monogram
embroidery without a sewing foot. It requires a little practice. You will
soon enjoy creative embroidery once you have learned to move the
material at a uniform rate. The fabric should be held taut in the hoops
and the presser bar lifter lowered. Let the needle stitch into the fabric
at the beginnin’ of your design and draw bobbin thread up through
the fabric. Hold both thread ends and sew over outline, moving hoops
slowly and evenly. To give your monogram dimensional quality, em
broider outline twice. Be sure stitches are closely spaced.
838 954
ü
Machine Setting: A
Sewing Monograms
21/2
to 3; B
4
The procedure below is primarily used for block letters. Set needle
plate so that feed dog feeds the material. Attach all-purpose sewing
foot and set machine for satin stitch. Sew outlines of monogram, making
sure that seams do not overlap at joints of letters.
43
DRO31
838 954
Straight-Stitch Hemstitching
Infert fashion disc A.
Machine’Setting: A
0. B = +
Stitch length: Medium to maximum.
Insert twin hemstitching needle, System 130 Zwi-Ho, as instructed on
page 15. Turn out needle set screw-a little further than for ordinary
needles.
The thread size, threading procedure and thread tension are the same
as for cording work (see page 45).
Beautiful hemstitching effects on blouses, dresses, handkerchiefs, doilies
and so forth, can be obtained with Pfaffs System 130 twin needle. The
harder the fabric yarn, the more pronounced the hemstitching will be.
For this reason, batiste, organdy, georgette, etc. are best suited to
hemstitching, while woolly fabrics are not recommended.
Procedure
Fold fabric to mark seamline or trace seamline on fabric. Sew first row.
Guide fabric so that wing needle stitches along traced line. At the end
of the seam, turn fabric half a turn and sew second row. Guide fabric
in such a way that wing needle penetrates the needle holes it has made
and enlarged previously.
Imitation hemstitching thus requires at least two operations. If desired,
additional straight or curved ornamental seams may be stitched parallel
to the first one. Exciting decorative effects may be obtained by using
van-colored embroidery and darning threads.
Zigzag Hemstitching
+
Machine Setting: A
Up to 1/2; B
Insert fashion disc A
Same as above, except that the wing needle should penetrate the traced
line only when it is on the left of its throw.
DR 001
R 8427
44
-
,r
Cording
Machine Setting: A
0; B
To cord on your Pfaff 92, use a cording foot and a twin needle.
Twin needles are available for needle distances of 1.2 (3/64”), 1.6 (1/16”), 1.8, 2.0 (5/64”), 2.5 (3132), 3.0, and 4.0 (5/32”)
millimeters.
Cording feet are available in three varieties, as follows:
Pin tucks are made with cording foot No. 847680 (7 grooves, 3/64” wide each) and a 1.2-mm twin needle.
For narrow cording use cording foot No. 847675 (5 grooves, 1/16” wide each; see ill.) and a 1.6-mm twin needle.
Wider cording is made with cording foot No. 847 671 (3 grooves, 5/64” wide each) and a twin needle with a needle
distance of 2.0 or 2.5 millimeters.
Cording feet and twin needles, System 130, ore supplied on special request and at extra cost.
Changing the Needle and the Sewing Foot
Bring take-up lever to highest point, loosen needle set screw a, and
pull ordinary needle out of needle clamp. Insert twin needle into
opening of needle clamp and push it up as far as it will go Make
sure that the flat side of the shank faces toward the back. Tighten
needle set screw a securely.
45
DR 020
the sewing foot. Slip on cording foot and tighten screw b
rum sewing foot thumb screw b to the left and take out
securely.
on a cording foot with the guide attached.
It is best to turn out screw b completely if you want to slip
Thread Size
idery thread, wider cording with sewing silk in the needle
Pin tucks and narrow cording are made with a No. 50 embro
and on the bobbin.
Set the machine for a medium stitch length.
Upper T,hreading
both thread ends through both thread retainer openings 2,
Place a spool of thread on each of the two spool pinsPass
and center tension discs, and the other between the
rear
as illustrated on page 17. Lead one thread between thetake-up ever 4 to its highest position and pass both threads
center and fr,nt tension discs of upper tension 3. Raise
each needle from front to back.
thraugh the hole at its end. Pull threads into slat 5, and thread
do this, hold both needle threads in your left hand.
The bobbin thread is drawn up as instructed on page 18. To
Thread Tension
se
Slightly increase the bobbin thread tension, and increase or decrea
used. If the
the needle thread tension depending on the type of fabricappear
as a
tension has been set correctly, the bobbin thread should
side.
other
the
faint zigzag line on
Filled Cording
your cording
If you want to make cording in filmy fabrics or renderfiller
cord. Its
a
insert
you
t
0
th
ends
more prominent, Pfaff recomm
thickness depends on the cording size you want.
below through
Remove the bed slide and pass the filler cardf from ill, on page 45).
(see
hole
needle
oval
the
of
front
in
hole g located
g foot (together
Lay the end of the filler cord back under the cordin cord forward
with the needle and bobbin thread ends). Pull a filler
under the bed slide and place the ball in your lap.
0R521
46
1
DR 058
Spacing between Tucks
To ensure uniform spacing between parallel tucks, place the preceding
seam into one of the grooves of the foot and use it as a guide.
For a larger spacing between tucks, use the adjustable guide (see ill, on
page 46) which is part of every cording foot.
Various Cording Effects
Attractive cording effect may he obtained by combining horizontal,
vertical and diagonal tucks or stitching curved tucks (see ill, below).
If you want to turn a corner, leave needle in fabric (up to needle eye
only), lift foot, turn fabric, lower foot, and continue sewing. To stitch
an acute angle, turn fabric halfway, let needle make one stitch, turn
fabric all the way, and resume stitching.
DR 473
DR 474
47
DR 475
DR 058A
DR 554
{r_rJ
ioI
Coarse-Thread Embroidery
Machine Setting: A = 0 to
4; B
Insert fashion disc A.
=
optional
Buy a coarse, four-ply emb
roidery thread in the desired
colors.
Embroidery designs made
with this thread are very
attractive. They have dime
nsional quality and closely
resemble manual embroide
ry work.
The adjoining designs were
made with the aid of the
zigzag disc. To make the
design illustrated in the
middle, alternate straight
and zigzag stitching.
Machine embroidery is mad
e with the machine running
at a moderate speed.
48
r
I
DR 555
—
91100179
Automatk Embr&dery
Machine Setting: A = 2 to 4; B = 4
Stitch Length: Minimum
Insert fashion disc D, E, F or G, and use No.50 em
broidery thread.
Numerous pattern vriatians are possible by changing
stitch width and stitch length. Selecting the most effec
tive design and color cbmbinatiOns will challenge your
imagination.
Automatic embroidery designs, too, ore rendered more
prominent by using coarse embroidery thread. It is
advisable to increase the stitch length slightly.
Flower petals sewn with fashion disc E and coarse embroidery thread.
49
I
Two-Needle Decorative Sewing
Machine Setting: A
up to 2; B
Insert fashion discs A to G,
Automatic embroidery designs are particularly attractive when sewn with
twin needles and differeit color thread.
The distance between both needles must not exceed 5/64 inch. (For threadi
ng the twin needles see cording instruc
tions on page 45).
Beautiful border effects can be produced by combining zigzag, serpen
tine, and blind-stitch designs.
Your Pfaff can do many additional sewing jobs and turn out beautif
ul work. See your Pfaff dealer who will be glad
to advice you on our extensive line of attachments designed to enlarge
the range of possible applications of your
machine. Such additional applications include granite stitching and
sewing on wool thread. Interesting effects can
also be obtained with the multi-stitch ruffler and the bias binder.
50
Contents
Foreword
Essential Parts of Machine
Fundamentals of Machine Ooeration
Operation of Your Sewing Machine
Motor Disengaging Mechanism
Electrical Information
Straight Stitching
Zigzag Sewing
Automatic Fashion Discs
Changing tle Fashion Discs
Removing the Bobbin Case
Winding the Bpbbin
Inserting a Full Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
Inserting the Bobbin Case
Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes
Important Facts about Needles
Changing the Needle
Upper Threading
Correct Tension Regulation
Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread
Regulating the Thread Tension
Stitch Length Regulation
Reverse Sewing
Changing the Sewing Foot
Preparing Your Machine for Darning
Darning and Embroidery Foot
All-Purpose Sewing Foot (with Clear-View Shoe>
Care and Maintenance
Changing the Light Bulb
Removing the Face Cover
Replacing the Face Cover
Trouble Shooting
Zipper Insertion
Edge Stitching
Quilting
Flat Felled Seams
Hemming
Stitching Synthetic Materials
Overcasting Edges
Butt Seaming
Darning
Inserting Patches
Blindstitching
Sewing Buttonholes
Button Sewing
Attaching Lace
Shell-Edging Made with Blindstitch Disc
Applique Work
Monogram Embroidery
Sewing Monograms
Straight-Stitch Hemstitching
Zigzag Hemstitching
Cording
Coarse-Thread Embroidery
Automatic Embroidery
Two-Needle Decorative Sewing
.
.
.
2
3
4
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
15
16
18
18
19
20
‘1
20
21
22
23
23
24
52
.,
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26
26
27
30
30
30
31
32
33
34
34
35
36
37
38
40
41
.
41
42
43
43
44
44
45
48
49
50
L
CPFAFFD°
Printed in Germany
Nr 20279 engl. So 0863
I
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