Grizzly C1554 Window Sash Owner Manual

Grizzly C1554 Window Sash Owner Manual
INSTRUCTIONS FOR C1550, 1551, 1553, 1554 and
C1552, C1555 SASH SETS
These router bits have sharp
edges. use care while
removing the waxy protective coating. Never turn on
the router with the protective
coating still on the bit.
•Failure to follow theSE
guidelines will result in serious personal injury.
•The use of a router table is
strongly recommended.
•Never feed lumber with the
rotation of the bit.
•Follow the safety guidelines
set forth by the manufacturer of the router and router
Designed specifically for architectural window construction,
Window Sash Sets offer excellent quality for creating beaded
and ogee window trim stock.
The C1550/C1551 (also sold as
C1552) combination produces a
C1553/C1554 (also sold as
C1552) combination produces the classic Ogee finish. Fitted with precision guide bearings, these bits are capable
of being used with a hand held or table mounted router. Using a table mounted router will give best results. For
maximum operating efficiency, a router rated at 1 horsepower or larger is recommended. The maximum frame
thickness: 13⁄8".
Note: These instructions and drawings are intended for explanation and clarification purposes only as they relate
to this particular router bit. Apply all safety rules and measures pertaining to router operations and your specific
operation. Refer to the owner’s manual supplied with your router and router table for specific warnings and instructions before proceeding with equipment operations.
Step 1: Cutting Stile and Rail Edges
Top of Bead
Make sure the router is disconnected from the
power source. Install the stile and rail cutter. Outer Side
(C1551 or C1554.) Attach the router to your
router table and adjust the height of the bit
until the top of the bead is 1⁄16" below the top
of your stile. See Figure A. Adjust the fence
until it is flush with the bearing. (The bearing
can be used without the fence when you are
cutting non-linear shapes such as a curved
arch door rail, however a starting pin should
Router Table
be employed to help make safe first contact to
workpiece). The workpiece must always be fed
Figure A
against the cutter rotation and the full depth of profile should be made in one pass to ensure a precise cut. If the window is not to be
painted, a side should be chosen for appearance and marked with a pencil. Before
plugging in the router, set a piece of scrap, the same size as the workpiece, on the
table appearance side up. Lay the edge to be cut firmly against the fence. A holddown device such as a featherboard should be used to keep the workpiece secured against the fence. Make a test
cut to ensure that the complete profile is being cut. Adjust, if necessary, and re-test.
• Unplug
i n s t a l l i n g o r adjusting
• Keep all guards and antikickback devices in place.
• Double check bit to insure
nut is tight and bit is tight
and secure in spindle.
• Always inspect lumber and
other wood materials for
cracks, knots, or other
imperfections that could
cause bit or lumber to kick
or shatter while milling.
Run all of the stiles and rails for the project through the cutter before changing bits to do the rail ends.
© May 2003 Grizzly Industrial, Inc.
Step 2: Cutting Rail Ends
Unplug the router and change bits. Raise the router bit so the top of the bead is
Outer Side
⁄16" below the top of your stock as shown in Figure B. Make sure that the miter
gauge used passes closely enough to the router bit to give the workpiece
proper support. It is recommended an extension be applied to the miter with
screws, if the miter is more than an inch from the bit. See Figure C. Make
sure that miter and face have working clearance so they won’t come in contact with bit. The miter gauge should also be checked for squareness to the
miter slot and adjusted, if necessary. The fence should be moved away so
the workpiece does not touch it during the cutting procedure. Run a test
Router Table
piece which is the same thickness as your actual rail stock. Test fit the rail to
a finished stile to see how the joint looks. If the pieces do not fit together tightly,
Figure B
or if the front and back surfaces do not fit flush, it may be necessary to readjust. Make very small movements in
the height of the router bit and test cut again.
Fence Moved
When the fit is properly adjusted, make the end cuts on the rails. Double check
Away from Cutter
the fit occasionally, to insure accuracy. The workpiece must always be fed
against the cutter rotation and the full depth of profile should be made in one
pass to ensure a precise cut. Rotate the board end for end, maintaining the
face-down position and cut the other end. A clamping device may be necessary to keep the workpiece secured against the miter gauge.
The position of the profile on the workpiece and variance in material thickness will also affect alignment. It is therefore very important that test material is milled to the same thickness as the finished material to ensure an
accurate setup.
Figure C
Step 3: Assembly
The illustrations below show the typical style, rail and glass layout. Note the glazer’s points which secure the pane
on the back side of the frame. They can be obtained from your local hardware store along with the putty needed
to finish and seal window.
Doors having more intricate designs such as arched, tombstone or curved panels should only be done when you
are confident of your ability. If your project requires curved pieces then freehand routing using the bearing and
starter pin will be necessary.
Remember that it is important to work with good quality material and to insure that all pieces are machined the
same and that all ends and edges are cut square. Follow all recommended
safety procedures and always test the setup using sample pieces.
Glass Pane
Glazer's Putty
© May 2003 Grizzly Industrial, Inc.
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