Acura TL 1995-1998 Body Repair Manual

Acura TL 1995-1998 Body Repair Manual
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Preparation of Work
Description
• Most monocoque bodies are composed as a single unit by welding together pressed parts made of steel plates which come in
a variety of different shapes and sizes. Each part is responsible for displaying a certain strength and durability in order that it
may play its role in meeting the functions of the body as a whole.
Damage to the exterior of the body can be inspected visually, but where there has been an external impact, it is necessary to inspect
the extent of the damage. In some cases, the deformation has spread beyond the actual areas which were in the collision and so
this has to be inspected closely.
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Checkpoints
• Accurate Inspection of Damaged Parts (Visual)
Seat Belts
Replace the seat belts if:
1. The belt material is cut, punctured, burned or in any way damaged.
2. The buckle or retractor does not work properly.
3. They were being worn at the time of a collision (check for damage at the seat belt anchor points).
4.
Their condition is questionable.
Front Section:
1. Is there any bending, splitting, denting or other damage to the suspension and its related parts?
2. Is there any deformation of the front bulkhead or radiator core? Have any of the connected sections come apart?
3. Are there any creases or distortion in the front wheelhouse or side frame? Have any of the connected sections come apart?
4.
5.
Is there any bending or twisting of the whole front area?
Is there any deformation like creases, bulges, or dents in the front pillar, dashboard, floor, etc.?
6. Is there any vertical twisting or misaligned clearance in the door?
7. Is the windshield seal broken?
8. Is there any deformation in the vicinity of the top part of the roof panel's center pillar?
9.
Is there any damage inside the automobile (is there any twisting of the dashboard, or anything irregular with the clearances
or sheet-mounting parts)?
10. Is there any damage to the steering wheel? Is there any deformation in the column and the column-mounted parts?
11. Is there any oil or water leakage and damage to the engine, transmission or brakes?
12. Is there any irregular noise in the gear changing operation, engine and transmission rotation?
13. Are there any traces of contact between the engine block and the dashboard lower panel?
14. Is there any damage to brake or fuel lines, or wire harnesses?
Rear Section:
1. Is there any twisting, bulging or denting of the rear floor and rear bolsters? Have any of the connected sections come apart?
2.
3.
Is there any irregular bulging or denting in the rear fender?
Is there any distortion in the rear inner panel? Is there any bending and denting in the vicinity of the rear pillar?
4. Is there any distortion or creasing is the rear wheelhouse and arch sections? Have any of the connected sections come apart?
5. Is there anything irregular in the rear glass and quarter glass seal clearance?
6. Is there any twisting or misalignment of the clearance of the trunk lid or tailgate opening section?
7. Is there any bending, splitting, denting or other damage to the suspension and its related parts?
8. Is there any deformation of the rear floor, rear floor cross member and damper base? Have any of the connected sections
come apart?
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Preparation of Work
Correction of the Damaged Area
Set the frame corrector on the car body.
The side sill is flangeless to allow reshaping by pulling it out.
Use the horizontal pinch welds for anchoring the car.
UNDERBODY CLAMPS
Underbody Clamp Specifications:
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1.
Apply load to the damaged section and pull it out until
the section is almost restored to the original shape.
2.
Check that the parts of the body they cover have been
more or less restored to their original shapes.
NOTE: Check the original position using the body
dimensional drawings (see section 6) and the positioning jigs (see page 1-7).
3.
Remove the parts that require replacement.
4.
Decide whether to replace all the affected parts or
whether to cut the weld joint parts and replace them.
5. Cut off and separate the damaged parts.
NOTE: When cutting the parts off, take special care
that you do not damage adjacent parts on the automobile.
Setting Condition of Replacement Parts Joint Sections:
• Make sure that you can perform straightening work
after welding.
• Make sure that the locations are not susceptible to
distortion caused by other parts.
• Make sure that there are few removable parts and
that the location allows safe welding.
• Make sure that the joints are short, and that paint
repair can be performed easily.
• Make sure the locations are such that the joints can
be finished in a way that does not affect the outward
appearance.
• Make sure that the locations do not hinder the
removing and attaching of parts.
NOTE: Bear in mind all of these conditions, and after
determining the joint locations, cut the joints for an
overlap of 20~30 mm (0.8~1.2 in).
6.
Mold the related parts.
7. Set and tack weld the replacement parts.
NOTE: Temporarily mount the related parts and check
the clearance and level differences.
8. Weld the replacement parts.
Welding methods (see section 2).
NOTE: Use of the positioning jig is recommended.
CAUTION: Protect body parts with the heat-resistant
protective cover to prevent damage, when welding.
The paint film, which is designed to prevent corrosion
caused by moisture, is destroyed around the edges of the
locations which have been repaired by welding.
Therefore, in such places and especially in those areas
which are not visible, apply another coat of the paint,
referring to the anti-corrosion painting manual. This
operation is designed to maintain durability and quality
(see section 7).
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Preparation of Work
Measurement (Excluding small damage)
Whenever possible, make judgements and conclusions based on measurement. Measure the wheel alignment (see page 1-2) so as to
prevent any future trouble like unsymmetrical wear of the tires or catching of the steering wheel.
If there are any deviations, use a tram tracking gauge and measure parts of the body.
POINTER A
If there is any twisting to the body, measure using a frame centering gauge.
When measuring body dimensions, use a universal tram gauge.
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Positioning Jigs
4-12, 4-18, 4-50, 4-55
4-12, 4-18
4-50, 4-55
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Welding Methods/Repair Tools
Spot Welding
Spot welding is also known as resistance spot welding, and it is the most suitable method of welding for automobiles. It has three
main features: the welding can be performed instantaneously, it exercises very little effect on the mother material, and it reduces
the generation of distortion to the absolute minimum. However, please remember to remove all paint and other impurities from
the surface of the material you intend to weld for reliable results.
Welders:
Spot welder
Timer
Welding Conditions:
When performing spot welding, make absolutely sure that you conform to the conditions governed by the current, conductivity
time, welding pressure, holding time, and shutdown time recommended for the spot welder.
Please bear in mind the following points when welding:
• Plate thickness and minimum welding pitch
NOTE: When the welding intervals are too
small, this leads to branching, making it impossible to maintain the desired soldering
state.
• Plate thickness and tip diameter
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• Welding Strength Test
Even if you perform the welding in accordance with the conditions, the strength of the welded sections may fluctuate widely with
drops in the voltage and other factors. The quality of the welding cannot be evaluated unless the welded sections are destroyed.
Provide yourself with a steel plate of the same thickness and conduct a destruction test.
• If holes appear in the steel plates, this means that the
welding is standard strength.
• Drive a wedge between two panels near the nugget. If
the welded parts do not come apart and the diameter of
the nugget is more than 3mm (0.1 in), the welding
should be satisfactory.
WEDGE
30 mm
(1.2in)
Stop inserting the wedge when
the full size of the nugget appears.
NOTE:
It is difficult to perform spot welding in the following circumstances:
• When it is not possible to remove any rust or paint attached to the welding surfaces.
• When the tip of the spot welder cannot be inserted into the welding section.
• When the welding surfaces can be seen from the outside and welding will impair the exterior appearance.
In all these cases, the gas welding method should be employed. Moreover, if it is not possible to perform spot welding because of
space restrictions, plug welding using on the arc welding method may be performed instead. For plug welding, the sections to be
welded must be close together.
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Welding Methods/Repair Tools
Gas Welding
Gas welding is indispensable for body repair because of the broad range of its applications for joining the body panels, cutting the
materials that construct the body, and applying heat to reform panels, and also because it is easy to get hold of the tools.
However, this method requires experience.
Welders:
Gas regulator
Gas regulator
Welder
Cutter
Oxygen/Acetylene tanks
Welding Methods:
Butt welding
Fillet welding or soldering
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Carbon Dioxide Arc Welder (MIG Arc Weld)
This welding process uses inexpensive carbon dioxide instead of expensive inert gases as a shielding means. Consumable metal
electrodes are employed. It has a wide range of applications, including butt welding of thin plate, fillet welding, plug welding, and
MIG spot welding. In terms of the weld strength, it is also highly stable.
Welders:
CAUTION: Disconnect the negative battery cable before arc welding.
Welding Methods:
Butt Welding
Fillet welding
Spot welding
Plug welding
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Welding Methods/Repair Tools
Examples of Repair Tools
Item
Protective tools
Work
Operator
Tools, equipment used
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Protective goggles
Cap
Ear plug
Shield for eyes
Overalls with long sleeves
Dust-proof mask
7. Protective apron
8. Welding gloves
9. Foot protectors
10. Safety shoes
11. Work gloves
12. Spattering guard
Heat-resistant
protective cover.
Vehicle body
Processing tools
Plug hole drilling
DRILLING BLADE, DRILL, SPOT CUTTER
PUNCH
PRESSURE
DRILL
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Item
Tools, equipment used
Work
Flange tools
Edge preparation
Cutting tools
Cutting
AIRSAW
AIR IMPACT CUTTER
AIR JIGSAW
HANDSAW
HAND NIBBLER
CHISEL
PLASMA CUTTER
Sanding tools
Cleaning
DISC SANDER
Air type:
BELT SANDER
Electric type:
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Welding Methods/Repair Tools
Examples of Repair Tools (cont'd)
Item
Fixing tools
Work
Tools, equipment used
Base metal fixing
SCREW CLAMP
VISE-GRIPS
SQUILL VISES
Shaping tools
Skin panel shaping
HAMMERS
DOLLIES
CHISEL
SNIPS/
SHEARS
SPOONS
Body, frame shaping
WELDER
BODY JACK
SLIDE HAMMER
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General Information
Zinc-plated Steel Plate Repair
The zinc-plated steel plate used in some panels of the Acura 2.5TL/3.2TL requires different repair techniques than ordinary steel plate.
Refer to "Body Construction" (see page 4-2) for the location of the zinc-plated panels.
ZINC PLATING (5~6 microns)
Steel plate
1. Before spot welding the zinc-plated steel plate, remove the paint from both sides of the flange to be welded. Apply sealer to
the flange after welding.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.
NOTE: Seal the sanded surfaces thoroughly to prevent rust.
2.
The electric continuity properties of zinc-plated steel plate is different from ordinary steel plate. When spot welding, increase
the current by 10-20%, or increase the resistance welding time.
Increase the number of weld spots by 10-20% also.
NOTE: The MIG welding procedures for zinc-plated steel plate are the same as for ordinary steel plate.
To prevent eye injury and burns when welding, wear an approved welding helmet, gloves and safety
shoes.
3.
Before applying putty or body filler to the zinc-plated steel plate, sand the zinc plating thoroughly to promote adhesion and
prevent blistering.
NOTE:
• Use only epoxy-based putties and fillers on zinc-plated steel plate.
•
4.
Follow the manufacturer's specification.
When performing paint work, apply caulking to the ground wire
mounting position to mask the body.
SPECIAL
BOLT
GROUND
WIRE
GROUND WIRE
MOUNTING
HOLE
CAULKING
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Avoid puttying as much as possible when repairing a new car. Use alternative methods as much as possible.
• Most paints contain substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the
container. Spray paint only in a well ventilated area.
• Cover spilled paint with sand, or wipe it up at once.
• Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting. Avoid contact with skin.
• If paint gets in your mouth or on your skin, rinse or wash thoroughly with water. If paint gets in your eyes, flush with
water and get prompt medical attention.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
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General Information
Door and Bumper Reinforcement Beams
Door and bumper reinforcement beams used on Honda automobiles are made from a metal equivalent to High Strength Steel (except
2.5TLfront bumper reinforcement beam).
Should High Strength Steel be heated, the strength of the steel will be reduced. If High Strength Steel is damaged, as in a automobile
accident where the door reinforcement beams are bent, the beams may crack should any attempt be made to straighten them.
2.5TL front bumper reinforcement beam is made of aluminum alloy (#6000).
For this reason, Door and Bumper Reinforcement Beams should never be repaired, they should be replaced if they become damaged.
NOTE: If a door beam is damaged, the whole door panel assembly should be replaced.
FRONT DOOR
REINFORCEMENT
BEAM
REAR DOOR
REINFORCEMENT
BEAM
2.5TL:
FRONT BUMPER
REINFORCEMENT
BEAM
(Aluminum alloy)
REAR BUMPER
REINFORCEMENT
BEAM
(High Strength Steel)
vffMr/////////////////////^
Wmmm/mmm//////^/),
3.2TL:
FRONT BUMPER
REINFORCEMENT BEAM
(High Strength Steel)
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Construction
NOTE: Be sure to use epoxy-based putty and primer surfacer to make any repairs on paint coats or zinc-plated sheet metal (see page 3-3).
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Front Fender
Replacement
NOTE: Check clearance and level differences of the hood,
door panels and front bumper.
5. Set the front fender.
Fasten to the front wheelhouse at two spots with bolts.
Close the hood and check the front and rear clearances,
1.
door clearance and level differences.
Remove the related parts.
•
Front bumper
• Headlight
• Mud guard
• Side sill panel
• Inner fender
2.
Mask parts with tape.
Stick masking tape on the neighboring lower windshield
and the door to protect painted surfaces from damage.
3.
Remove the front fender mounting bolts.
MOUNTING
BOLT
NOTE: Apply the mastic sealer
to the mounting positions of the
front fender.
FRONT
FENDER
MASTIC
SEALER
6.
After checking the mounting position, tighten all
bolts fully.
7.
Apply the undercoat (see section 7).
Apply an undercoat to the inside of the front fender and
upper face of the front wheelhouse.
8.
Apply the paint.
See Paint Repair section.
• Ventilate when spraying paint.
4.
Most
paint
Apply paint on the back of the new fender.
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
See Paint Repair section
or swallowed. Read the paint label
opening the paint container.
• Ventilate
when
spraying
paint.
Most
paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed.
Read the paint label before
opening paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
NOTE: Apply paint to lower section of front pillar also.
• Avoid contact with skin.
before
Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
9. Install the related parts.
Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.
10. Check and adjust.
• Check wiring connections.
• Adjust the headlight aim.
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Front Bulkhead
Description
The front bulkhead is joined to the front wheelhouse and front side frame. It forms the base for the headlights and other parts and
maintains the rigidity of the front section of the body. Pay particular attention to twists and parallelism and check mounting of
related parts when welding.
Mass Production Body Welding Diagram
2.5TL:
3.2TL:
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Replacement
1. Remove the related parts.
NOTE: When drilling holes be careful not to drill down
•
Front bumper
to the front wheelhouse or front side frame themselves.
•
•
Hood
Right and left headlights
• Cut off the bulkhead with an air chisel, leaving the
•
Right and left front fenders
welding flanges intact.
• Level and finish the burrs from the pried off spot
• Radiator, condenser
• Hood latch
welds with a disc sander.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glass whenever sanding,
cutting or
grinding.
-1
2.5TL:
FRONT SIDE
FRAME
BULKHEAD UPPER
FRAME
2. Roughly pull out and straighten the damaged area.
• Check the damage to the front wheelhouse and
front side frame before removing the front bulkhead.
Use the frame staightener to roughly pull out and
repair the damaged bulkhead before removing the
bulkhead.
NOTE: Check the fit of the door, taking care not to pull
the damaged area out more than necessary.
• Use the horizontal pinch weld clamps and attach the
car to the frame straightener at the clamping points
securely.
3.
Keep the body level.
Jack up the body, and place safety stands at the four
designated places of the side sills.
NOTE: Refer to the Acura 2.5TL/Acura 3.2TL Service
Manuals for safety stand location points.
4.
Cut and pry off the front bulkhead.
• Center punch around the spot weld imprints.
• Use the special spot cutter to drill holes at the spot
weld nuggets on the front wheelhouse and front side
frame.
FRONT LOWER
CROSS MEMBER
3.2TL:
FRONT SIDE
BULKHEAD
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Front Bulkhead
Replacement (cont'd)
5.
7.
Mold the damaged related parts.
• Use a hammer and dolly to mold the damaged areas
To prevent eye injury and burns
of the front wheelhouse front and side frame.
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
• Even out the welding flanges with a hammer and
dolly.
•
gloves and safety shoes.
Spot weld the clamped sections.
Fill all drilled holes by MIG or gas welding.
NOTE: Make sure that the right and left bulkheads are
in line with each other.
FRONT WHEELHOUSE
2.5TL:
Tack weld the new front bulkhead.
FRONT SIDE FRAME
3.2TL:
FRONT
WHEELHOUSE
8.
Measure the front compartment diagonally.
Measure the front compartment diagonally with a tracking gauge or convex tool as shown to check it for
twisting or bending.
FRONT SIDE
FRAME
6.
Set the new front bulkhead.
•
Grind both sides of the welding section of the bulkhead with a sander to remove the undercoat and
expose the steel plate.
U^^JQQ
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
• Clamp both the right and left sides with the visegrips as shown.
NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface
when spot welding.
• Check the front bulkhead position using the body
dimensional drawings (see section 6).
9.
Temporarily assemble the hood, headlight and front
fender, then check the clearances and level differences.
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10. Perform the main welding.
3.2TL:
• Spot weld the bulkhead as shown.
• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were
holes drilled.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
2.5TL:
12. Apply the undercoat (see section 7).
13. Attach the front fender.
3.2TL
14. Lower the body.
NOTE: Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.
Torque: 108 N-m (11.0 kgf-m, 79.6 Ibf-ft)
15. Apply the paint.
See Paint Repair section.
11. Finish the welds.
Use a hammer and dolly to even out the front wheelhouse and front side frame flanges for a close fit with
the surface of the front bulkhead.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
16. Install the related parts.
2.5TL:
17. Inspect, check, and make adjustments.
• Adjust the headlight aim.
• Check that the electical components light up and
operate properly.
• Replenish radiator coolant and inspect for leaks.
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Front Wheelhouse/Damper Housing
Description
The front wheelhouse component is constructed as a unit with the front damper housing. Therefore, replacement of the
component affects the front wheel alignment. When assembling it, either use a positioning jig or follow dimensions on the
frame repair chart for positioning. Weld carefully.
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Front Wheelhouse/Damper Housing
Mass Production Body Welding Diagram
2.5TL:
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3.2TL:
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Front Wheelhouse/Damper Housing
Replacement
1.
Remove the related parts.
•
Parts to be removed when removing the front bulkhead
• Parts on passenger side of lower dashboard which
are especially flammable
• Electrical accessories in engine compartment and
wire harnesses.
NOTE: See the 95-96 Acura 2.5TL & 96 Acura 3.2TL
4.
Cut and pry off the front wheelhouse and damper
housing.
-1. When replacing the front wheelhouse only.
• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the
front side frame and damper housing.
• Drill holes in the center punched areas using a spot
cutter.
• Using a chisel, pry off the welded flange.
Service Manuals, for removal and installation of the
engine, front suspension and brakes.
2.5TL:
2.
FRONT WHEELHOUSE
Pull out and straighten the damaged area to approximately the original shape.
• Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps at the horizontal pinch
weld points.
NOTE: Refer to the 95-96 Acura 2.5TL & 96 Acura 3.2TL
Service Manuals for safety stand location points.
•
Before cutting off the damaged sections, pull them
out so that they are restored to the original shape.
• Do not pull out more than necessary.
• Pull out and straighten the damaged area of the
lower dashboard, front pillar, and other parts.
• After pulling, check the damper housing position
using the body dimensional drawings (see section 6)
and positioning jig (see page 1-7).
NOTE: Check the condition of the door and hinges.
3.2TL:
FRONT WHEELHOUSE
3.
Peel off the undercoat.
Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the wheelhouse
and front side frame with a gas torch, and peel off the
undercoat with a metal spatula.
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-2. Replace the damper housing with the front
2.5TL:
wheelhouse.
•
DASHBOARD
UPPER SIDE
MEMBER
Remove the wheelhouse upper rear member.
• Remove the MIG weld flange with a disc sander.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or
safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or grinding.
• Using a chisel, pry off the welded flange form the
front pillar and damper housing.
NOTE: Remove the wheelhouse upper rear member
carefully so they can be reused.
2.5TL:
WHEELHOUSE UPPER
REAR MEMBER
FRONT SIDE FRAME
3.2TL:
DAMPER
HOUSING
3.2TL:
WHEELHOUSE UPPER
REAR MEMBER
DASHBOARD UPPER SIDE MEMBER
FRONT PILLAR
INNER LOWER
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Front wheelhouse/Damper housing
Replacement (cont'd)
5.
Mold the related parts.
• Level and finish the burrs left on the welding
surfaces with a sander.
• Ventilate when
Use a hammer and dolly to even out the welded areas of
paint.
Most
paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
• Fill all drilled holes by MIG or gas welding.
the lower dashboard, front side frame and dashboard
spraying
or swallowed.
Read the
paint
label
before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
upper side member.
• Paint is flammble. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
3.2TL:
2.5TL:
• Remove the undercoat from both sides of the weld-
WHEELHOUSE UPPER
MEMBER DIAGONAL
ing section and expose the steel plate using a disc
sander.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
• Clamp to the front side frame with vise-grips and
squill vises.
WHEELHOUSE
UPPER
EXTENSION
NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface
when spot welding.
DAMPER
HOUSING
•
Clamp the front bulkhead with vise-grips.
•
Measure the front compartment diagonally.
NOTE: Use of a positioning jig is recommended (see
page 1-7).
FRONT SIDE FRAME
DASHBOARD UPPER
SIDE MEMBER
DASHBOARD LOWER
DAMPER STIFFENER
POSITIONING JIG
• Spot weld several points in the clamped sections, and
temporarily attach the front wheelhouse and damper
housing.
FRONT SIDE FRAME
6.
Set the new front wheelhouse and damper housing.
• Apply body paint to both sides of the new front
wheelhouse and damper housing.
• See Paint Repair section.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
7. Check the dimensions, temporarily install the hood, front
fender and headlight, and check for differences in level
and clearance.
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8.
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Perform the main welding.
• Weld as much as possible with the jig still mounted.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
•
9.
Weld the wheelhouse upper rear member.
When the upper rear member is to be reused, make MIG
welds at the drilled holes.
3.2TL:
2.5TL:
Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were
holes drilled.
2.5TL:
10. Finish the welded area.
Use a hammer and dolly to even out the side bulkhead
and front side frame flanges for close fit with the surface
of the front wheelhouse and damper housing.
11. Apply the sealer (see section 5).
Apply sealer to the mating surfaces of the lower
dashboard and front side frame, etc.
12. Apply the paint.
See Paint Repair section.
• Ventilate
when
spraying
paint.
Most
paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
3.2TL:
or swallowed.
Read the paint label
before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
13. Apply the undercoat.
Undercoat the front floor, etc, and apply anti-rust agent
to the inside of the welding section of the front side
frame, lower dashboard, and upper member, etc (see
section 7).
14. Install the related parts.
Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.
15. Inspect, check and make adjustment.
•
Measure the front wheel alignment.
•
Inspect the brake system.
•
Adjust the headlight aim.
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Front Side Frame
Description
The front side frame acts as a base for the front suspension and is highly important in maintaining the rigidity of the front section.
Pay careful attention to the position and dimensions of the weld joints and weld carefully.
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Front Side Frame
Mass Production Body Welding Diagram
2.5TL:
NOTE: Replace the front side frame and front side outrigger as an assembly.
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3.2TL:
NOTE: Replace the front side frame and front side extension
as an assembly.
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Front Side Frame
Replacement
NOTE: With the front bulkhead removed.
1. Remove the related parts.
•
Front suspension related parts
• Brake hoses and pipes
•
•
Engine compartment electrical components
Fittings in passenger compartment, etc.
3. Roughly pull out and straighten the damaged area.
• Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the horizontal
• Steering gearbox.
2.
pinch welds.
NOTE: Refer to the 95-96 Acura 2.5TL & 96 Acura 3.2TL
Remove the sub-frame.
Service Manuals for safety stand location points.
• Before cutting off the damaged sections, pull them
out so that they are restored to the original shape.
• Cutting off the front side frame before roughly
pulling out the damage makes repair of the related
front floor, lower dashboard, and other related parts
difficult.
4.
Peel off the undercoat.
Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the lower
dashboard, front floor and side sill with a gas torch and
peel off the undercoat with a metal spatula.
CAUTION: Be careful not to burn the fittings inside
the passenger compartment when heating.
5. Remove the front side frame.
NOTE: It's not necessary to separate the front wheelhouse from the front side frame if the wheelhouse/
damper housing is to be replaced also.
• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the
wheelhouse, damper housing, lower dashboard, front
floor and floor frame.
• Using a spot cutter, drill holes in the spot welded
areas.
• Peel off the welding flange using the chisel.
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Remove the burrs from the drilled sections with a
disc sander.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
NOTE: When drilling holes
and
be careful not to
drill down to the inside sill.
2.5TL:
• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the
front side frame and front side outrigger from inside
the passenger compartment.
• Drill holes in the spot welded area with a 5 mm (0.2 in)
drill.
NOTE: Drill holes completely through the parts since the
replacement front side frame, front side outrigger and jack-up
stiffener will be welded by MIG welding.
• Remove the MIG welds of the front side frame-and-lower
dashboard with a disc sander.
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Front Side Frame
Replacement (cont'd)
7.
Set the new front side frame.
• Remove the undercoat from the both sides of the
welding section, and expose the steel plate using a
disc sander.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface
when spot welding.
• Tighten the front side frame against the front floor
and side sill using vise-grips or pliers.
• Place a jack under the front side frame end and
support it, and measure the positions for temporary
attachment.
NOTE: Use of a positioning jig is recommended (see
page 1-7).
6.
Mold the related parts.
• Reshape the front wheelhouse and damper housing
lower dashboard-to-front floor joint using a hammer
and dolly.
• Fill all drilled holes by MIG or gas welding.
• Clamp the front bulkhead and front wheelhouse/
damper housing with squill vises and vise-grips.
•
Measure the front compartment diagonally.
• Spot weld several points in the clamped sections,
and temporarily attach the front side frame.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• Check the body dimensions (see section 6).
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8.
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Perform the main welding.
• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were
holes drilled.
• Weld as much as possible with the jig still mounted.
3.2TL:
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• Weld the front side frame, wheelhouse, damper
housing and bulkhead.
• From the passenger compartment side, plug weld
the holed areas of the lower dashboard and front
floor with a MIG welder.
2.5TL:
•
and
make 5 mm (0.2 in) holes in the MIG weld
holes with the outrigger, and plug weld the inside sill
with a MIG welder.
2.5TL:
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Front Side Frame
Replacement (cont'd)
3.2TL:
12. Apply the undercoat.
Undercoat the front floor, and apply anti-rust agent to
the inside of the welding section of the side sill, front side
frame, etc (see section 7).
13. Install the related parts.
Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.
14. Inspect, check and adjust.
•
•
•
9.
Finish the welds.
Use a hammer and dolly to even out the damper housing,
wheelhouse, lower dashboard, front bulkhead and side
sill flanges for a close fit with the surface of the front side
frame.
10. Apply the sealer (see section 5).
Apply sealer to the mating surfaces of the lower dashboard, etc.
11. Apply the paint.
See Paint Repair section.
Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
Measure the front wheel alignment.
Inspect the brake system.
Adjust the headlight aim.
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Front Side Outrigger/Front Side Extension
Description
The front side outriggers connect the front side frames to the body and are vital to the rigidity of the entire body frame. Pay
particular attention when welding the front side outriggers from beneath the front floor and side sill.
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Front Side Outrigger/Front Side Extension
Mass Production Body Welding Diagram
2.5TL:
NOTE: Replace the front side outrigger, locating bracket and front side brace as an assembly.
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Front side Outrigger/Front Side Extension
Mass Production Body Welding Diagram (cont'd)
3.2TL:
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Replacement
1.
Remove the related parts.
•
Front seat
•
Carpet
• Refer to the front side frame (see page 4-16).
2.
Pull out and straighten the damaged area.
• The front side outrigger receives impact through the
front side frame or side sill. Such impact generally
requires replacement of all these parts.
•
Before cutting off the front side outrigger or side sill,
pull out the damaged area with the frame straightener and correct the related parts such as the front
floor and dashboard. Check the clearance and level
differences of the front doors.
• Jack up the body and place safety stands at the four
designated places of the side sills. If necessary,
place safety stands at the rear of the frame.
3.
Peel off the undercoat.
Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the front side
outrigger and side frame with a gas torch and peel off the
undercoat with a metal spatula.
CAUTION: Be careful not to burn the fittings inside
the passenger compartment when heating.
4.
Remove the front side outrigger.
• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the
front side outrigger from inside the passenger compartment.
• Drill holes is the spot welded areas with a 5 mm (0.2
in) drill.
• Remove the MIG welds with a disc sander.
NOTE: Drill holes through the parts completely since the
replacement front side outrigger will be welded by MIG
welding.
• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the
front side frame, floor frame and inside sill.
• Drill holes using a spot cutter.
NOTE: When drilling holes be careful not to drill down to
the front side frame, floor frame and inside sill.
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Front Side Outrigger/Front Side Extension
Replacement (cont'd)
3.2TL:
6.
FRONT SIDE
EXTENSION
FRONT SIDE
FRAME
Set the new front side outrigger.
• Remove the undercoat from both sides of the areas
to be spot welded with a sander to expose the steel
plate.
• Clamp the weld flanges with the side sill using the
vise-grip pliers. Set the front side outrigger on the
side frame using a jack.
• Drill 3 mm (0.12 in) holes, and screw 5 mm selftapping screws into the drilled holes at the areas
where the front side outrigger does not fit closely.
• Even out the welded flange and damaged area with
a hammer and dolly.
7.
Perform the main welding.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• From the passenger compartment side, weld the
holes in the lower dashboard, front floor and floor
FLOOR FRAME
frame with a MIG welder.
• Weld the front side frame and front side outrigger
Level off and finish the burrs of the pried off spot
welds with a disc sander.
2.5TL:
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
5.
using MIG welds.
Mold the related parts.
Reshape the lower dashboard, front side frame, front
floor, inside sill and side sill inner joint using a hammer
and dolly.
2.5TL:
Remove the remains of
the front side outrigger.
FRONT SIDE FRAME
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Make 5 mm (0.2 in) holes in the MIG weld holes with
the outrigger or front side extension, and weld the
front side frame, floor frame and inside sill with a MIG
welder.
8. Apply the sealer (see section 5).
Apply sealer to the mating surface of the lower dashboard and front floor.
9. Apply the paint.
See Paint Repair section.
2.5TL:
6 point of MIG welding the bending angle of a flange.
Welding pitch=30 mm (1.2 in)
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
10. Apply the undercoat.
Undercoat the front floor, etc, and apply anti-rust agent
to the inside of the front side outrigger and side sill (see
section 7).
3.2TL:
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Front Pillar (Outer Panel)
Description
The front pillar is connected to the roof, windshield, the door hinges, and side sills and is a highly important support. Connection
of the front pillar determines the position of the windshield and front door. Align the front fender, door, and windshield while
the front pillar is loosely mounted, and check the clearances and level differences.
Mass Production Body Welding Diagram
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Replacement
1.
Remove the related parts:
4.
Cut off the front pillar.
•
•
Hood
Front fender
• Cut off the front pillar along the bold line shown in
the figure to the right with a gas cutter.
•
Front door
• Use a handsaw to cut the windshield and side sill
•
Windshield
•
Front side trim
areas.
NOTE: Be careful not to cut the inner section.
•
Door opening trim
•
Side cowl lining
•
Dashboard
•
•
Front pillar trim
• Drill holes using a spot cutter.
• Wire harness, etc.
• Steering column
•
Steering hanger pipe
Center punch around the spot weld imprints.
• Chisel off the weld flanges.
• Finish the burrs at the drilled areas with a disc
sander.
NOTE: Make sure that the right and left pillars are
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
parallel with the windshield surface. Check the door for
proper opening and closing.
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
2. Pull out and straighten the damaged area.
• Pull out the damaged area with the frame straight-
OUTER
PANEL
ener before cutting off the front pillar extension and
front pillar.
NOTE: Pull out until the pillar is lined up with the
surface of the windshield.
• With the pillar pulled out, pull out and straighten the
related lower dashboard and floor section.
•
UPPER
STIFFENER
INNER
UPPER
INSIDE SILL
After pulling, check the inner pillar position using the
body dimensional drawings (see section 6).
3. Remove the wheelhouse upper rear member.
OUTER PANEL
WHEELHOUSE
UPPER REAR MEMBER
Repair the front pillar lower stiffener if necessary.
FRONT INNER UPPER
PILLAR
FRONT PILLAR LOWER
STIFFENER
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Front Pillar (Outer Panel)
Replacement (cont'd)
5.
8.
Mold the related parts.
• Remove the vise-grips, then mount the door.
• Check the clearance and level differences of the
Fill any holes by MIG or gas welding, and even out with a
hammer and dolly.
door and fender.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
6.
Set the repair part
• Align the repair part with the top cut section, then
cut it with a handsaw.
NOTE: Cut the side sill joint with a handsaw leaving an
overlap of 30 mm (1.2 in).
• Remove the undercoat from both sides of the areas
to be spot welded with a sander to expose the steel
plate.
Temporarily mount the door and front fender.
9.
Perform main welding.
• Weld the front pillar and side sill outer joints with a
MIG welder.
• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were
holes drilled.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• Make 5 mm (0.2 in) holes in the MIG weld holes
with the repair part, and weld the lower stiffener
extension, lower stiffener and dashboard upper side
member with a MIG welder.
NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface
when spot welding.
•
Clamp with vise-grips as shown.
• Check the body dimensions (see section 6).
REPAIR PART
FRONT PILLAR
LOWER STIFFENER
• Weld the wheelhouse upper rear member.
WHEELHOUSE
UPPER REAR MEMBER
7.
Tack welds the clamped sections.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
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10. Finish the welding areas.
• Finish grind the finishing allowance with a disc
sander until it is smooth.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
• Smooth the flanged section of the door opening
with a hammer and dolly.
11. Apply the sealer (see section 5).
12. Apply the paint.
See Paint Repair section.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
13. Apply anti-rust agent to the inside of the front pillar,
wheelhouse upper member and side sill (see section 7).
14. Install the related parts.
• Install in the reverse order of removal.
• Check the door for proper installation and level
difference from the fenders.
15. Clean and check.
• After installing the dashboard, check the lights and
gauges for proper operation.
• Clean the passenger compartment and check for
water leaks.
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Windshield Lower
Description
Impact damage to the windshield lower area may spread to
the back of the panel and wiper mounting area, calling for
replacement of the affected skins.
Mass Production Body Welding Diagram
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Windshield Lower
Replacement
1. Remove the related parts.
Wiper arm and motor
Windshield
Right and left front fenders
Right and left front door opening trims
Front pillar trim
Hood
Dashboard, etc
Wire harnesses and electrical accessories
Steering column
2.
Cut the windshield lower and separate the welded
flange.
• Center punch around the spot weld imprints.
• Drill holes with a spot cutter through the nuggets.
• Peel off the welding flange using a chisel.
• Level off and finish the burrs of the pried-off spot
welds with a sander.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
WINDSHIELD LOWER
CENTER DEFROSTER
DUCT
LOWER SUPPORT
A/C DUCT SHELTER
WINDSHIELD
LOWER
DASHBOARD
UPPER
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LOWER SUPPORT
A/C DUCT
SHELTER
DASHBOARD
UPPER SIDE
BULKHEAD
CENTER
DEFROSTER
DUCT
DASHBOARD UPPER
3.
Set the new windshield lower.
• Apply an undercoat and body paint to the inside.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
• Sand off the undercoat down to the metal from both
flanges to be welded.
• Clamp the new windshield lower in place with visegrips and squill vises.
NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface
when spot welding.
• Install the new windshield and check for proper
installation and alignment.
4. Tack weld the new windshield lower.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• Remove the vise-grips and install the fender and
hood. Check for differences in level and clearance.
5.
Perform the main welding.
• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were
holes drilled.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
6. Finish the welding section.
Smooth the mating surface with the windshield with a
hammer and dolly.
7. Apply the sealer (see section 5).
Apply sealer to the upper dashboard, pillars, etc.
8.
Install the front fender and hood.
Check the front fender and hood for differences in level
and clearance.
9.
Apply the paint.
See Paint Repair section.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
10. Apply anti-rust agent to the inside of the windshield
lower and dashboard upper (see section 7).
11. Install the related parts.
Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: Take care not damage the windshield and the
paint finishes.
12. Inspect and clean.
• Check the windshield for water leaks.
• After installing the dashboard, check the lights,
gauges, etc. for proper operation.
• Clean the interior.
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Side Sill (Outer Panel)
Description
The side sill should, depending on the degree of damage, be repaired as much as possible rather than replaced. (Repair by pulling
out with slide hammer with pin and washer welded on.)
Mass Production Body Welding Diagram
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Replacement
• If the damage involves part of the center pillar and
1. Remove the related parts.
rear wheel arch, cut them as shown with a handsaw.
• Front and rear doors
• Cut the side sill with a chisel leaving the weld flanges
(remove according to part damaged)
intact.
• Side and center pillar trim
2.
3.
•
Door opening trim
•
Carpet
•
Door switch
• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the
welded flange.
• Drill holes using the spot cutter.
• Seat belt
• Pry off the welded flange with a chisel.
Pull out and straighten the damaged area.
Damage may extend to the inner pillar, the inside sill and
floor. Determine the extent of the damage first, so that
the frame can be pulled out properly.
the inner section.
NOTE: Be careful not to let the holes penetrate down to
Cut and pry off the side sill.
• Check the damage on the outer side sill, then cut the
repair outer side sill so it will overlap by 30 mm (1.2 in)
in the front and back.
• Cut the side sill with a handsaw along the bold line
shown in the figure to the right.
NOTE: Be careful not to cut the inside sill. This could
result in extensive repair.
REPAIR
PART
SIDE SILL
OUTER PANEL
OUTER
PANEL
30 mm
(1.2 in)
CENTER PILLAR
OUTER
REPAIR
PART
CENTER INNER
PILLAR
30 mm
(1.2 in)
REPAIR
PART
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Side Sill (Outer Panel)
Replacement (cont'd)
2.5TL:
WHEEL ARCH
EXTENSION
BULKHEAD
NOTE: Check the damage of the honeycomb floors and if
necessary replace it (see page 4-58).
CENTER PILLAR
STIFFENER
INSIDE SILL
CENTER INNER
PILLAR
HONEYCOMB
FLOORS
BULKHEAD
REINFORCEMENT
SIDE SILL
EXTENSION
5.
CENTER PILLAR
STIFFENER
Set the repair part.
• Sand off the undercoat from both sides of the welded
flange on the repair part.
• Clamp the repair part in place with vise-grips.
NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface when
spot welding.
•
6.
Check the body dimensions (see section 6).
Tack weld the repair part.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
4.
Mold the related parts.
•
Fill any holed areas by MIG or gas welding.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• Level and finish burrs at welded areas with a disc
sander, then even them out with a hammer and
dolly.
• Sand off the undercoat from both sides of the flange
REPAIR
PART
to be welded.
•
Remove the vise-grips and install the fender and
doors. Check for differences in level and clearance.
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7.
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Perform main welding.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• Weld the side sill and rear side outer joints with a MIG
welder.
• Spot weld the side sill flanges.
• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were
holes drilled.
• Make 5 mm (0.2 in) holes in the MIG weld holes with
the repair part, and weld the center pillar stiffener and
wheel arch extension with a MIG welder.
• Level the weld beads at the front and rear with a disc
sander. Hammer down the projections, then fill with
solder or putty to finish it.
8. Apply the sealer.
Apply sealer to the mating surfaces of the floor and
inside sill (see section 5).
9.
Apply the paint.
See Paint Repair section.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
10. Apply the undercoat.
Undercoat the front floor, and apply an anti-rust agent
to the inside of the side sill and center pillar (see section
7).
11. Install the related parts.
• Install in the reverse order of removal.
• Check the door for proper installation and level
differences from the fenders.
12. Clean and check.
Clean the passenger compartment and check for water
leaks.
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Roof Panel
Description
Deformation of the roof panel is highly noticeable in terms of the vehicle's outer appearance.
Before replacing the roof rail, make sure that the body is horizontal. Before welding the roof panel, adjust the roof rail flanges so
that they contact the roof panel.
Mass Production Body Welding Diagram
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Replacement
1.
Remove the related parts.
4.
Windshield
Rear window
Sunvisor
Ceiling lights
Headliner
Moonroof frame (For some types)
2.
Cut off the shaded areas of the roof panel.
• Cut the roof rail weld flange with a handsaw at the
four corners.
• Using a chisel, pry off the roof panel along the bold
lines as shown.
• Center punch around the spot weld imprints of the
roof gutter welded flange.
Pull out and straighten the damaged area to approxi-
•
mately the original shape.
• Using a chisel, pry off the welded flange.
NOTE: Check the inner front pillar and the inner center
pillar for position and damage.
Drill holes using the spot cutter.
OUTER PANEL
Cut the roof panel and pull out the pillars if necessary.
•
Pull out the damaged area with the frame straight-
ROOF PANEL
ener before removing the roof panel.
•
Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the horizontal
ROOF SIDE RAIL
pinch welds.
3.
Keep the body level.
NOTE: Refer to the 95-96 Acura 2.5TL & 96 Acura 3.2TL
Service Manuals for safety stand location points.
Jack-up the body at the front and back. Place safety
stands at the four designated places of the side sills.
NOTE: Make sure that the right and
left pillars are
parallel with the windshield surface. Check the door for
proper opening and closing.
FRONT ROOF
UPPER RAIL
ROOF PANEL
REAR ROOF
UPPER RAIL
Forward
REAR ROOF
LOWER RAIL
• Weld the holed areas with a MIG or gas welder.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
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Roof Panel
Replacement (cont'd)
Level and finish burrs on the welded flanges with a
disc sander.
14 mm (0.6 in)
OUTER PANEL
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
ROOF PANEL
• Even out the roof side rail welded flange with a
hammer and dolly for a close fit with the roof panel
welded flange.
NEW ROOF
PANEL
ROOF SIDE RAIL
REAR INNER PANEL
5. Apply paint to the underside of the new roof panel.
• See Paint Repair section.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
6. Set the new roof panel.
• Sand off the undercoat from both sides of the flange
sections to be spot welded to expose the steel plate.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
• Clamp the roof panel with vice-grips.
• Check the body dimension (see section 6).
7. Tack weld the new roof panel.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• Spot weld the clamped sections to temporarily install
the roof panel.
• Set the windshield and rear window, and check the
roof panel for proper installation.
• Install the roof molding and check the width of the
groove.
8. Perform the main welding.
NOTE:
• Check that the flange surfaces fit closely. Be careful
not to twist or deform the roof panel.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• Check the width of the groove for the roof moldings
on both sides.
• Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface when
spot welding.
• Spot weld the roof rails at the front and rear.
• Spot weld the roof arch.
• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were
holes drilled.
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• Smooth the spot weld areas under the windshield and
rear window with a hammer and dolly.
NOTE: After welding the pillars, grind and finish the
welded areas flat and blend them into the roof panel.
9. Apply and level the sealer to the welded areas.
10. Apply the paint.
See Paint Repair section.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
11. Apply an anti-rust agent to the inside of the roof side rail.
Weld the roof rail from the inside by MIG welding as
shown.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
<Front>
Forward
12. Install the related parts.
Install in the reverse order of removal.
13. Check and clean.
• Check the windshield and rear window for water
leaks.
• Make sure the moonroof operates smoothly.
• Clean the passenger compartment thoroughly.
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Rear Side Outer Panel
Description
The rear side outer panel is a conspicuous part of the vehicle. It is especially important for body line continuing from the door.
Therefore, pay particular attention to it when conducting work. This part also is next to the trunk lid, door and rear window and other
parts and must be aligned with them.
Mass Production Body Welding Diagram
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Table of Contents
Replacement
1. Remove the related parts.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Rear bumper
Rear window
Taillight
Rear pillar trim panel
Trunk side panel
Rear seat
Rear seat belt
Fuel fill pipe (left side only)
Do not smoke while working near
the fuel system. Keep open flame away from the fuel
system. If necessary, remove the fuel tank and/or
lines before welding nearby. Drain fuel into an
approved container.
PLASTIC GROMMET
MOUNTING HOLE
Do not smoke while working near
the fuel system. Keep open flame away from the fuel
system. If necessary, remove the fuel tank and/or
lines before welding nearby. Drain fuel into an
approved container.
2.
PLASTIC GROMMET
MOUNTING HOLE
Pull out and straighten the damaged area.
NOTE: Carefully check the inner pillar and trunk gutter
for position and damage. Pull out the inner panel by
cutting the outer if necessary.
• Jack-up the body and place safety stands at the four
designated support points.
• Pull out the damaged rear side outer panel with the
frame straightener, then pull out and straighten the
center pillar inner panel and rear wheelhouse.
REAR DAMPER
STIFFENER
Cut area.
INNER
PANEL
REAR DAMPER
SEPARATOR
NOTE: Be careful not to pull out more than necessary.
OUTER PANEL
• After pulling, check the inner pillar and trunk gutter
position using the body dimensional drawings (see
section 6).
3. Cut and pry off the rear side outer panel.
• Cut at the rear pillar and side sill with a handsaw.
• Cut the panel from the body with a chisel leaving the
weld flange at the inner panel intact.
NOTE: Do not cut or damage the inner panel and rear
damper stiffener.
• Cut at the side sill or wheel arch according to the
extent of the damage.
• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the
remaining flange.
• Drill out the spot welds with the spot cutter.
• Pry off the welded flange sections using a chisel.
OUTER PANEL
NOTE: Do not cut or damage the rear damper stiffener
and rear damper separator.
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Rear Side Outer Panel
Replacement (cont'd)
REAR DAMPER
SEPARATOR
OUTER
PANEL
REAR
DAMPER
STIFFENER
Apply the mastic sealer.
REAR PANEL
REAR PARCEL
SHELF
TRUNK GUTTER
INNER PANEL
REAR
PANEL
WHEEL
ARCH
EXTENSION
REAR FLOOR
SIDE SILL
EXTENSION
5.
Cut the replacement part.
• Cut so that the repair part overlaps the side sill by 30
mm (1.2 in).
• Apply body paint to the back of the repair part.
• See Paint Repair section.
4.
Mold the inner panel and related parts.
• Fill and holes drilled by MIG or gas welding.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• Level and finish burrs, etc. with a disc sander.
• Ventilate when
spraying
paint.
Most
paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed.
Read the paint
label
before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
• Remove the undercoat from both sides of the weld
flange with a sander to expose the steel plate.
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9.
Perform the main welding.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• Weld the outer panel at the rear pillar and side sill with
a MIG welder.
• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were
holes drilled.
• Make 5 mm (0.2 in) hole in the MIG weld hole with the
repair part, and the wheel arch extension with a MIG
welder.
REPAIR PART
6.
Set the repair part.
• Install the outer panel and clamp it with vise-grips.
NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface when
spot welding.
• Check the body dimensions (see section 6).
7.
Tack weld the repair part.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
Temporarily spot weld the panel at the clamped positions.
8.
Remove the vise-grips and check the alignment of the
door and trunk lid.
NOTE:
• Check for flushness of the front fender, door, and
the rear fender and make sure the body lines flow
smoothly.
• Check the rear window openings.
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Rear Side Outer Panel
Replacement (cont'd)
13. Apply the undercoat.
Apply undercoat to the wheelhouse and apply anti-rust
agent to the inside of the outer panel (see section 7).
14. Install the related parts.
Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.
15. Inspect, check, and clean.
• Adjust the clearance with the door and trunk lid, then
adjust the level differences and fit. Check operation.
• Test for leaks in the trunk and passenger compartments.
• Clean the trunk floor.
10. Finish the welded areas.
• Level the MIG welded areas with a disc sander.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
• Even out high areas with a hammer. Be careful not to
deform them.
• Even out the spot welded flange areas with a hammer and dolly.
•
Fill in deformations and level differences of the
welded areas with solder or putty, then finish.
11. Apply the sealer (see section 5).
Apply sealer to the fuel fill section, trunk lid opening
joint and around the taillight area of the rear panel.
12. Apply the paint.
See Paint Repair section.
• Ventilate when
spraying
paint.
Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin.
before
Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
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Rear Panel
Description
The rear panel is joined to the rear outer panel and rear floor, and maintains the rigidity of both sides of the rear body. It must
be welded carefully.
Mass Production Body Welding Diagram
Table of Contents
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Rear Panel
Replacement
1.
4. Mold the related parts.
Remove the related parts.
• Rear bumper
• Repair the rear floor upper stiffener if necessary.
• Rear bumper upper beam
• Trunk lid lock and its attachments
• Repair all cracks, holes or other defects by MIG or
gas welding.
• Other related parts
• Rear and side trim panels
• Taillights
2.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
Pull out and straighten the damaged area.
gloves and safety shoes.
• Pull out the related rear side inner panel, rear floor,
rear side frame and other damaged parts with the
frame straightener.
• Attach the car to the frame straightener by tightening the underbody clamps located at the jack-up
points on the bottom of the side sill and the side sill
side flanges.
3.
Cut and pry off the rear panel.
• Cut along the bold line shown with a gas cutter or an
air chisel and remove the rear panel.
•
Center punch around the spot weld imprints with the
rear side outer panel and rear floor.
• Drill holes using the spot cutter.
REAR FLOOR
NOTE: Be careful not to let holes penetrate through to
the rear floor.
JACK-UP
STIFFENER
REAR
FRAME
SILENCER MOUNT
BRACKET
• Remove weld flange with a chisel.
REAR
PANEL
REAR FLOOR
UPPER
STIFFENER
JACK-UP
STIFFENER
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5. Set the new rear panel.
• Paint the inside of the panel with the body color.
• See Paint Repair section.
6. Tack weld the rear panel.
• Weld the clamped sections for temporary installation.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
7.
• Remove the undercoat from the welding section of
the panel and expose the steel plate using a disc
sander.
8.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
• Install the new rear panel and clamp it with visegrips.
NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface when
spot welding.
• Check the rear panel position using the body dimensionnal drawings (see section 6).
Open and close the trunk lid to check for proper
installation.
NOTE: Make sure the trunk lid or tailgate locks securely.
Position the rear panel in its correct position with the rear
bumper and taillight installed.
Perform the main welding.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were
holes drilled.
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Rear Panel
Replacement (cont'd)
9. Finish the welding areas.
• Level the welded acres with a disc sander, then even
out high areas with a hammer. Be careful not to deform them.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
• Even out the spot welded flange area with a hammer
and dolly.
10. Apply the sealer (see section 5).
• Apply sealer to the rear side outer joint and around
the taillight areas of the rear panel.
• Apply sealer to the rear panel and rear floor joint.
11. Apply the paint.
See Paint Repair section.
• Ventilate when spraying paint.
Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
12. Apply anti-rust agent (see section 7).
• Apply agent to the outer panel, rear panel and rear
floor joint.
• Apply agent to the inside of the jack-up stiffener.
13. Install the related parts.
Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.
14. Inspect, check, and clean.
• Adjust the clearance with the trunk lid, then adjust the
level difference and fit. Check operation.
• Test for leaks in the trunk compartment.
• Clean the trunk floor.
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Rear Floor
Description
The rear floor is the base of the rear body and it is critical for the rigidity of the rear body. During replacement, refer to the body
dimension chart or body correction chart and determine the position to set the rear floor properly. Be sure that the rear floor is
not bent or deformed. Weld securely following the welder manufacturer's instructions to maintain the rigidity of the body.
Mass Production Body Welding Diagram
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Table of Contents
Rear Floor
Replacement
1.
Remove the related parts.
•
3. Remove the rear floor upper extensions.
Rear seat
• Trim and other luggage compartment fittings
• Left and right rear suspension assembly
• Parking brake parts
• Muffler
• Wire harness
• Other parts as necessary
• Fuel tank and fuel pipes
Do not smoke while working near
the fuel system. Keep open flame away from the fuel
system. If necessary, remove the fuel tank and/or
lines before welding nearby. Drain fuel into an
approved container.
2. Remove the rear suspension cross beam.
4.
Pull out and straighten the damaged area.
• Check whether the damage extended to the rear
floor cross member, rear wheelhouse and the passenger compartment, and pull out the damaged
parts using the frame corrector.
• Impact damage to the rear floor spreads to related
parts such as the rear frame, rear floor cross member
and rear wheelhouse.
• Therefore, pull out the damaged areas with the
frame straightener and measure in reference to body
dimensional drawing.
NOTE: Use of a positioning jig is recommended (see
page 1-7).
5.
Peel off the undercoat.
Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the lower rear
floor with a gas torch and peel off the undercoat with a
metal spatula.
CAUTION: Be careful not to burn the fittings inside the
trunk compartment while heating.
6.
Cut and pry off the rear panel (see page 4-45).
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Main Menu
7.
•
Cut and pry off the rear floor.
• Cut off the rear floor with a gas cutter or air chisel.
Level the spot welded flanges of the rear side frame
and rear floor cross member, as shown by the bold
line in the figure below.
Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the
remaining welded flanges. Do the same with the rear
wheelhouse and the side of the rear end inner panel.
•
Drill holes with a spot cutter.
NOTE: When drilling holes, be careful not to drill down
to the rear frame.
• Pry off the flanges using a chisel.
OUTER PANEL
REAR FLOOR
REAR INNER PANEL
REAR FRAME
REAR WHEELHOUSE
NOTE: Cut the rear floor 15 mm (0.6 in) from the welded
flange of the rear floor upper cross member.
8.
Mold the related parts.
• Remove the burrs from the spot weld or MIG weld
using a sander.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
REAR FLOOR UPPER
CROSS MEMBER
or safety glasses whenever sanding,
grinding.
•
cutting or
Fill any holes made in the spot welded areas of the
flange by MIG or gas welding.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
REAR FLOOR
CROSS MEMBER
REAR FLOOR
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Main Menu
Rear Floor
Replacement (cont'd)
•
Smooth the welding flanges of the rear frame with a
hammer and dolly.
• Pry off the welded flange sections using a chisel.
REAR FLOOR UPPER
CROSS MEMBER
NOTE: Check that the rear frame is parallel at the right
and left.
REAR FLOOR UPPER
CROSS MEMBER
REAR FLOOR
9.
Keep the body level.
Jack-up the body at the front and back. Place safety
stands at the four designated places of the side sill.
REAR FRAME
REAR FLOOR
CROSS MEMBER
10. Set the repair part.
• Cut the new rear floor to align it with the body.
NOTE: Cut the new part so it overlaps the body side floor
by approximately 40 mm (1.6 in).
• Center punch the spot weld imprints on the rear floor
upper cross member welded flange.
• Drill holes with a spot cutter at the areas joined to the
rear floor upper cross member and rear floor.
NOTE: When drilling holes be careful not to drill down to
the rear floor.
Remove the undercoat from both sides of the areas
to be welded with a sander to expose the steel plate.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
REAR FLOOR
UPPER CROSS
MEMBER
REAR FLOOR
REAR FLOOR
CROSS MEMBER
REPAIR PART
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• Insert the repair part between the rear floor and rear
floor upper cross member.
• Check that the weld flange surfaces fit closely.
11. Set the rear floor upper stiffener, and check the rear panel
position.
REAR FLOOR
UPPER
STIFFENER
12. Perform the main welding.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
REAR FLOOR
UPPER CROSS
MEMBER
REPAIR
PART
gloves and safety shoes.
Spot welding:
NOTE: Apply the spot sealer to the welding surface when
spot welding.
• Recheck the position of the rear frames and rear floor,
then weld the repair part and rear frames.
• Make 20% to 30% more spot welds than there were
REAR FLOOR
CROSS MEMBER
holes drilled.
REAR
FLOOR
MIG welding:
• Drill the holes for welding the repair part.
• Check the rear frame position and weld the repair part
• Check the position of the rear floor and rear frames using
the body dimensional drawings (see section 6) and the
positioning jig.
REAR FLOOR
UPPER CROSS
MEMBER
REPAIR
PART
REAR FLOOR
REAR FLOOR
CROSS MEMBER
to the rear frames.
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Main Menu
Rear Floor
Replacement (cont'd)
• Make 5 mm (0.2 in) hole in the MIG weld hole with the
repair part.
• Weld the rear floor, repair part and rear floor upper
cross member.
• Weld the rear panel and install the rear floor upper
extension.
13. Finish the welded area.
Even out the welded area with a hammer and dolly, and
fit the flange surfaces closely together.
14. Apply the sealer.
Apply sealer at the overlapped area of the rear floor, and
the welded surfaces of the rear wheelhouse and rear
end inner panel. Seal gaps completely (see section 5).
15. Apply the paint.
See Paint Repair section.
REAR FLOOR
UPPER CROSS
MEMBER
REAR
FLOOR
MIG
welding
REPAIR
PART
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
16. Apply the undercoat.
Apply anti-rust agent to the inside of the jack-up stiffener and jointed areas of the rear floor (see section 7).
17- Weld the rear panel and install the related parts.
Install in the reverse order in which they were removed.
18. Inspect and clean.
• Weld the rear wheelhouse and outer panel.
• Measure the rear wheel alignment.
• Clean the inside of the trunk compartment.
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Rear Floor Cross Member
Description
The rear floor cross member position is critical for rear wheel alignment. During replacement, check the position of the rear beam
and rear damper base and position the rear floor cross member properly.
Weld securely following the welder manufacturer's instructions to maintain rigidity. Use of the positioning jig is recommended.
Mass Production Body Welding Diagram
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Table of Contents
Rear Floor Cross Member
Replacement
1. See Rear Floor Replacement for removal of related
• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the
rear frame.
parts.
2.
• Drill holes with a spot cutter.
• Be careful not to let them penetrate through to the
Peel off the undercoat.
Heat the undercoat at the weld areas of the rear floor
rear frame.
and rear frame with a gas torch, and peel off the
• Pry off the part with a chisel.
undercoat with a metal spatula.
CAUTION: Be careful not to burn the fittings inside
4. Set the new rear floor cross member.
• Sand off undercoat from both sides of the areas to
the trunk compartment when heating.
be welded to expose the steel plate.
3.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
Remove the rear floor cross member.
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
grinding.
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
• Make 5 mm (0.2 in) holes in the MIG weld holes with
the new rear floor cross member.
• Center punch around the spot weld imprints on the
rear floor cross member from under the rear floor.
• Drill holes with a spot cutter at the area joined to the
rear floor cross member and rear floor.
• Set the new rear floor cross member in the original
position properly and place a jack under the rear
floor cross member for support.
• Refer to the set position body dimensional drawings
(see section 6) for proper positioning of the rear floor
cross member.
NOTE: When drilling holes be careful not to drill down to
the rear floor upper cross member.
• Temporarily weld the mating surfaces with the rear
frame.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• Check the rear floor cross member in its correct
position with the fuel tank installed.
5.
Perform the main welding.
To prevent eye injury and burns
when welding, wear an approved welding helmet,
gloves and safety shoes.
• MIG weld the rear floor cross member from under the
rear floor.
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6. Finish the welding area.
Roughly grind the welds in the trunk compartment with
a disc grinder. Be sure to leave the finishing allowance.
NOTE: Take care not to grind excessively.
7. Apply the sealer (see section 5).
8.
Apply the paint.
See Paint Repair section.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
9. Apply the undercoat (see section 7).
10. Install the related parts.
Install in the reverse order of removal.
11. Check and clean.
• Check the rear wheel alignment.
• Clean the trunk compartment.
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Table of Contents
Honeycomb Floors (2.5TL)
NOTE: What is known as "honeycomb" construction is employed for the front floor. Properly designed and applied, it plays an
important role in maintaining the structural rigidity of that section of the car's floor. The honeycomb floor is installed with an epoxy
resin adhesive. Care must be exercised when installing a new honeycomb floor as seepage of water into the honeycomb
construction will adversely affect its performance.
Replacement
3.
Flattening of melt-sheet
• Heat the surface of the melt-sheet with a torch or heat
gun until it becomes soft and pliable.
• Finish the surface smooth and flat with a steel spatula.
NOTE: In order to take full advantage of the honeycomb
floor, its face must contact the base fully.
1. Remove the related parts.
• Front and rear seats.
• Carpet, others
2.
Removal of honeycomb floors.
• Scrape off the dust sealer all the way around the
floor.
• Separate the floor from the body by using a pair of
pliers.
CAUTION: Be careful not to burn the fittings inside
the passenger compartment when heating.
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Table of Contents
4. Application of adhesive.
• Apply adhesive all over the melt-sheet.
6. Application of dust sealant.
• Apply dust sealer all the way around the floors.
NOTE: Use CEMEDINE EP-330 or equivalent (epoxy
resin adhesive designed to harden quickly at normal
temperature). Follow the adhesive manufacturer's
instructions.
NOTE: It is essential to make the floor completely impervious to water as seepage into honeycomb construction
will adversely affect its performance. Use sufficient dust
sealant to seal the floor.
• Using a bristle brush or spatula, spread the dust
sealant all over the surface until it becomes smooth
and flat.
• Check that the dust sealant is applied to the seat
brackets thoroughly.
5. Installation of new honeycomb floors.
• Install the new honeycomb floors.
• Clamp the floor in place using a clamp at the front
and rear as shown.
NOTE: Place weights on the floor for 30-60 minutes
until the adhesive hardens.
7. Apply the paint (body color).
• See Paint Repair Manual.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
8.
Install the related parts.
9. Check and clean.
Check the electrical parts for proper operation.
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Table of Contents
Cross Section of Body and Sealants
NOTE: Seal the following areas to prevent air leaks, water leaks and rust.
: Sealing locations
Spot Sealer: 3M #08892 (Internal)
: 3M #08893 (External)
Use materials above or equivalents.
2.5TL:
<Engine Compartment>
<Front Wheelhouse>
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Table of Contents
<Front Floor/Rear Floor>
<Roof panel>
<Front Pillar Inner Panel>
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Cross Section of Body and Sealants
(cont'd)
2.5TL:
<Outer Panel, Rear Floor/Rear Panel>
Main Menu
<Under Floor/Frame>
Table of Contents
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Cross Section of Body and Sealants
(cont'd)
2.5TL:
<Hood>
Main Menu
Table of Contents
3.2TL:
< Engine Compartment >
<Front Wheelhouse/Under floor>
NOTE: The sealing locations of except those above are the same as 2.5TL.
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Table of Contents
Cross Section of Body and Sealants
Spot/Mastic Sealers
NOTE: Seal the following areas to prevent air leaks, water
leaks and rust.
: Sealing locations
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Table of Contents
Body Dimensional Drawings
Upper Body Measuring Dimensions
<Engine Compartment>
2.5TL:
Unit: mm (in)
NOTE: Measuring dimensions show
the distance between the forward or
upper edge of positioning bosses
and/or holes shown in the detail
sketches.
Measuring point (Black dots)
Main Menu
3.2TL:
Unit: mm (in)
Table of Contents
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Body Dimensional Drawings
Upper Body Measuring Dimensions (cont'd)
<Passenger Compartment>
Unit: mm (in)
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Under Body Measuring Dimensions
2.5TL:
Unit: mm (in)
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Body Dimensional Drawings
Under Body Measuring Dimensions (cont'd)
3.2TL:
Unit: mm (in)
Main Menu
Opening Repair Chart
Unit: mm (in)
<Windshield/Doors Opening>
<Rear Window/Trunk Lid Opening>
Table of Contents
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Body Dimensional Drawings
Frame Repair Chart
2.5TL:
Unit: mm (in)
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Body Dimensional Drawings
Frame Repair chart
NOTE: The dimensions of the rear floor area are the same as the table on page 6-9.
3.2TL:
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Rust-preventive Treatments
General
Corrosion starts immediately after the steel base contacts the atmosphere. The condition is aggravated by sea wind, road salt, rain,
snow and industrial fallout. There are many ways to protect automobiles against corrosion. Primers, primer surfacers and paints
are applied by electrodeposition or spray to protect the car body.
Anti-rust Agents and Spray Guns
Use the following anti-rust agents or equivalents when making a body repair.
ANTI-RUST agents contain substances that are harmful if you breathe or swallow them, or get them on your
skin. Wear coveralls, gloves, eye protection, and an approved respirator while using such agents.
Anti-rust agents:
Spray guns:
Use the correct gun for the agent being used.
• Use of a pressure type spray gun is recommended when work involves a considerable number of cars.
Precautions:
1. Before applying an anti-rust agent, thoroughly clean the areas to be coated with a steam cleaner, etc., and let dry.
NOTE: Waxoyl may be applied to wet surface.
2.
Spray an anti-rust agent sufficiently until the excess amount oozes out when filling, the doors, side sills, etc.
Wipe the excess agent with a clean rag dampened with light oil.
3. Do not spray an anti-rust agent to the brake hoses, brake wheel cylinders, brake drums, exhaust muffler and its related parts,
emission control devices in the engine compartment, ball joint covers, plastic fuel strainer, etc.
Wipe up spilled agent at once.
4. Heat an anti-rust agent to room temperature 97.7°F (36.5°C) by submerging the container in hot water when outside
temperature is below 50°F (10°C).
5. Ventilate when spraying an anti-rust agent since it contains a small amount of organic solvent. Keep sparks, flames and
cigarettes away.
Clean the spray gun after spraying with anti-rust agent.
CAUTION: Any remaining agent will harden in the passages of the spray gun, making it unserviceable.
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Table of Contents
Diagram
NOTE:
• Apply the designated thickness over surfaces including
gaps and edges.
• Avoid spraying agents on following parts:
Window glass, lights, grille, exhaust parts, tires, bumper and
lower skirt.
• Wipe up spilled agents at once from rubber and plastic
parts.
Anti-rust Agents:
• Use RUSTOP, DEOX #100, WAXOYL or equivalents
for protecting inner surfaces.
• Use NOX-RUST 409-20S, SOLTON 1000S or equivalents
for protecting outer surfaces.
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Table of Contents
Rust-preventive Treatments
Areas to be Covered by Anti-rust Agents
Rust-preventive Treatments:
Front Bulkhead Area
•
With the hood opened, coat the joints of the bulkhead,
wheelhouse and side frame and around the back of the
headlight assembly.
Nozzle used: B
Hood, Underside
• Coat the entire panel and seams all the way around.
• Spray sufficient anti-rust agent to the front area and
each corner.
• Apply rust-preventive agent or grease to the hood
hinges.
• Also coat the bulkhead upper frame and hood frame with
anti-rust agent.
Nozzles used: A and B
Dashboard Upper/Windshield Lower
• Coat the windshield lower and dashboard upper water
drain with anti-rust agent at front, right and left.
• Spray anti-rust agent completely over the rear of the
dashboard upper (windshield side).
NOTE: To insert the nozzle in the dashboard upper, remove
the air scoop grille for easier, more thorough spraying.
• Coat the inside of the front lower cross member.
Nozzles used: A and B
Nozzles used: A and B
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Table of Contents
Front Fender, Underside
Outside Panel (Front Pillar and Center Pillar), Inside
Apply anti-rust agent to the end of the fender, wheelhouse,
• Remove the door harness grommet and insert the nozzle
facing down.
and side sill installation.
NOTE:
NOTE: Make sure that the nozzle is not interfering with the
door hinge bracket. Spray thoroughly.
• Apply a coat of agent to the front door side, wheel arch
• Coat the door checker bracket.
end.
• If the fender is to be removed, care take to avoid damaging
the paint finish. Apply agent to the entire surface of the
back of the fender.
• Apply agent to the front fender filling pillar.
Nozzles used: A and B
Front Pillar
Nozzles used: B and C
Wheelhouse Upper Member, Inside
• Remove the front fender.
• Remove the air scoop grille in the dashboard upper and
coat the inside of the wheelhouse upper member with
anti-rust agent.
Nozzles used: A and B
Center Pillar
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Table of Contents
Rust-preventive Treatments
Areas to be Covered by Anti-rust Agents (cont'd)
Doors, Inside
• Apply agent to the joint between the door stiffener and
door skin through the water drain hole at the bottom of
the door.
• If necessary, remove the door side molding and weatherstrip, then spray the agent through the hole.
NOTE: When a suction type spray gun is used, remove the
door trim panel.
Nozzles used: A and B
<Front>
<Rear>
Rear Side Outer Panel, Inside
• Remove the door lock striker, taillight and grommets, then
spray agent through the hole.
• To apply agent to the inside of the rear wheelhouse,
remove rear trim panel and trunk side trim panel.
NOTE: Make sure that all the surfaces are coated with antirust agent since the areas to be covered are relatively
extensive.
Nozzle used: A
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Table of Contents
Trunk Lid Inside
• Coat the trunk lid skin, and frame seams all the way around.
• On the trunk lid, apply the agent to the inside of the
reinforcement frame.
Nozzle used : B
Nozzles used: A and B
Front Side Frame, Inside
• Remove the grommets from inside the front
compartment and coat the inside of the front side
frame.
• Coat the battery mount bracket base.
Nozzles used: A and B
Rear Panel, Inside and Outside/Rear Floor End
• Apply the agent to the gap between the rear panel and
rear floor.
• Apply the agent to the inside of the rear panel upper and
center frame.
• Undercoat may be used on those areas of the rear panel
that are concealed from view when parts are installed.
• Apply the agent to the inside of the jack-up stiffener.
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Table of Contents
Rust-preventive Treatments
Areas to be Covered by Anti-rust Agents (cont'd)
Front Wheelhouse
• Spray agent on the wheelhouse, front fender stay,
upper member and damper bracket as shown.
• Undercoat the wheelhouse where anti-rust agent or
undercoat has not yet been applied.
NOTE:
• Coat the wheelhouse extension, particularly the upper
face.
• Undercoat the inner fender mounting area of the
wheelhouse and upper face of the inner fender
Nozzles used: A and C
Rear Wheelhouse
• Coat the gaps between the inner and outer
wheelhouses, including the damper base.
• Apply agent to the edge of the rear side frame, side sill
and rear floor.
• Undercoat the wheelhouse where undercoat or
anti-rust agent has not yet been applied.
Nozzles used: B and C
Side Sill, Inside
• Remove the front and rear grommets and side sill panel
to spray agent.
• Insert the nozzle all the way through the grommet holes
and spray.
Move the nozzle right and left, and up and down while
pulling it back out of the grommet hole.
NOTE: Spray agent until it drips from the drain hole.
Nozzles used: A and B
Under-Floor Member/Floor Frame, Inside
• To spray agent to the inside of the under floor member,
insert the nozzle in the holes in the members.
• Also coat the under-floor, side sill, and front and rear
wheelhouses at the ends.
Nozzle used: A
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Table of Contents
Under-Floor
•
•
Apply the agent to the shaded areas only. Do not apply it
to the exhaust system and heated oxygen sensors.
Coat the bottom of the fuel tank.
Nozzle used: C
Suspension
NOTE:Do not apply to the brake disc and brake caliper.
Coat the outside (and inside if necessary)
•
•
•
•
Front Beam
Rear Beam
Beam Bracket
Beam Bridge
• Damper
• Upper Arm
• Steering Knuckle
Front:
• Rear Cross Beam
• Lower Arm
• Radius Rod
• Stabilizer
• Brake Pipe
Rear:
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Table of Contents
Rust-preventive Treatments
Undercoating Diagram
indicates PVC coating areas.
NOTE:
• Coating thickness: 0.5 mm (0.02 in) MIN.
• Follow the above instructions for paint repair or refinishing.
• Avoid coating on the front and rear suspensions, and exhaust
system mount area.
• Items marked with an asterisk (*) on the important control areas.
Coating thickness 1 mm (0.04 in).
Unit: mm (in)
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Color Chart Painting Specifications
NOTE:
• Apply NH-86 black (Gloss 40) to the visible surfaces of
shadowed areas after installing equipment (except cars
painted with NH-503P).
• In case of NH-503P there is no need to paint black.
• With body colors are NH-585P, NH-578, YR-509P. G-79P, R91P and YR-506M, apply NH-86 black (Gloss 40) to the front
and rear wheelhouses.
• NH-585P: 4C•4B (4-Coat • 4-Bake) paint
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Table of Contents
Paint
General
The 3-coat•3-bake (3C•3B) and 4-coat•4-bake (4C•4B) paint finishes give the Acura 2.5TL/3.2TL a deep gloss and stunning finish. This
manual provides information on paint defect repair and refinishing. Throughout, the objective is to explain in a simple yet comprehensive
manner the basic items you should know about paint repairs. Select the correct material for the defect and repaint or refinish in the
correct manner as described in this manual.
• Most paints contain substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the
container. Spray paint only in a well ventilated area.
• Cover spilled paint with sand, or wipe it up at once.
• Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting. Avoid contact with skin.
• If paint gets in your mouth or on your skin, rinse or wash thoroughly with water. If paint gets in your eyes, flush with
water and get prompt medical attention.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
Basic Rules for Repairing a Paint Finish
To repair paint damage, always use the 2-part acrylic urethane paints designated; polish and bake each of the three coats, as in
production, to maintain the original film thickness, and to assure the same quality as the original finish.
Outline of Factory Painting Process:
Features in Each Work Process
1. Pretreatment and Electrodeposition
In the pretreatment process, the entire body is degreased, cleaned, and coated with zinc phosphate by dipping.
After the body has been cleaned with pure water, it is placed in an electrolytic bath of soluble primer (Cationic Electrodeposition). This produces a thorough corrosion inhibiting coating on the inner surfaces and corners of the body, pillars, sills and
panel joints. Chipping primer is then applied to the most susceptible areas (see page 8-16).
2. Intermediate coat / Intermediate coat 1 (4C•4B)
The intermediate coat is applied to the prepared surface for further protection against damage.
• Intermediate coat 2 (4C•4B)
The intermediate coat 2 is matched to the color of the top coat.
3.
Top coat
Enamel paint and either polyester or acrylic resin paint are used in the top coat for higher solidity, smoothness, brightness,
and weather resistance.
Sectional View of Paint Coats:
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Table of Contents
Paint
Intermediate Coat Colors
The intermediate coat will determine the color and quality of the paint finish (smoothness, gloss, brightness and thickness). Be sure
to follow mixing instructions explicitly and measure the paint accurately.
Combination Table:
Table of Contents
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Paint Refinishing
Paint damage can appear in any form. Before making a repair, check the damaged area carefully, and determine the procedure best
suited to the type. The following relates paint refinishing methods to various types of paint damage of damage or defects.
Defects and Refinishing Processes
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains
substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed.
Read the paint label before opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep
it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
A. Damage or defects that have gone through to the
metal surface
Rusting or deformation:
Steps:
Featheredge the damaged area.
Prepare the metal surface.
Apply a chemical coating to metal surface.
Metal conditioner, Precoat, A.C.P treatment
Apply an undercoat (primer surfacer)
NH-585P :
-1 Apply intermediate coat 1 (surfacer and primer
surfacer)
Apply an intermediate coat (color matched to top
enamel paint).
NH-585P : Intermediate coat 2
(Exclusive color paint)
Apply a top coat (body color paint).
Solid color: Enamel top coat paint
Metallic color: Metallic enamel paint + Clear top
coat
Pearl color: Pearl enamel paint + Clear top coat
B. Damage or defects up to undercoat or intermediate
coat/intermediate coat 1 (NH-585P)
External damage or blisters:
(1) Perform Steps
through
under Item A.
NH-585P :
Damage or defects up to intermediate coat 2
External damage
(1) Perform steps
through
under Item A.
C. Damage or defects that have not gone through to
intermediate coats (only in top coat)
Shallow scratches or score marks:
(1) If damage has gone through to the metallic paint,
spray metallic enamel, then apply top coat wet on
wet.
(2) If damage has not reached the metallic color paint
and remained in the clear top coat,polish the damaged
surface or spray only the clear top coat.
NOTE: Try to repair by polishing as much as possible if
the damage has not reached the metallic color paint.
D. Replacement of Parts
-1 Welded parts
Rear side outer panel, etc.
(1) Perform Step
through
if the damaged area is
covered with filler or welded with reinforcement
plate.
(2) Perform Steps
and
for undercoats except
those on joints (Intermediate coat for replacement
parts).
(3) On inner panels, apply paint where the undercoat is
burned by heat of welding. Follow this with a rust
preventive treatment (see section 7).
-2 Single Parts
• Painting of outer and inner hood, door, trunk, lid,
etc.
Perform Steps
and
under Item A.
• Painting of inside of front fender.
Only enamel top coat paint may be used:
Solid color enamel. Metallic enamel or Pearl enamel.
• After spraying enamel paint, perform rust preventive
treatment (apply inner or outer rust preventive
agent).
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Paint
Refinishing Processes
Table of Contents
Table of Contents
Main Menu
Refinishing Procedures
1.
Featheredging (polishing damaged areas)
• Do not use high air pressure: Use only an approved, 210 kPa (2.1 kgf/cm2, 30psi) air nozzle.
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
injury.
- 1 . Damage to metal surface
• Sand the damaged area flat and smooth with a
double action sander and #60 or #80 disc paper.
• Sand the boundary between the metal surface and
undercoat with a double action sander and #180 or
#280 disc paper. Try to sand a larger area than the
4.
• Brush or spray a solution of chrome phoshate or
washer primer on the exposed metal surface.
• Use the following materials to treat the metal sur-
damage.
NOTE:
• Make sure there is no height difference between
the metal surface and undercoat.
• If a double action sander is not available, use a rubber
block and wrap sandpaper around it to sand the
face:
• Metal conditioner (kamsai Paint) (for USA usageDuporit 2415 Kwik-Prep TM)
• ACP agent (Nippon Paint)
• Precoat (Isam Paint) (for USA usage-Dupont 6155/
6165 Vari Prim Self-Etching Primer TM)
surface.
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles or
safety
glasses
whenever
sanding,
cutting
NOTE:
• Follow the manufacturer's instructions.
• Treat the metal surface, as much as possible, to
provide a better bonding surface for the subsequent
paint.
or
grinding.
-2.Damage to Undercoat
Intermediate coat
Top coat
Paint coat on replacement parts
Sand the damaged surface flat and smooth with a
double action sander and #280 or #320 paper.
NOTE:
• If a double action sander is not available, use a rubber
pad and wet or dry sand the surface with #280, #320,
#400 or #600 sandpaper.
• After sanding, check that the surface is flat ant
smooth.
• Perform the operations under Item 1-1 for the areas
where parts are welded to the body.
2.
Preparation of metal surface.
Remove all corrosion from the damaged area using a
#180 or #280 paper.
3.
Air Blowing/Degreasing
Air blow the sanded area, then degrease with a wax and
grease remover (for USA usage-Dupont 38125 Enamel
Reducer).
Treatment of metal surface
5.
Application of Filler
Drying
Sanding
• Small cracks or pinholes in the sheet metal should be
repaired with a filler and sanded flat and smooth.
NOTE:
• Mix the putty with the hardener in the correct ratio.
• Follow the filler manufacturer's instructions.
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Main Menu
Paint
Refinishing Procedures (cont'd)
Body
parts
being
dried
with
an
industrial dryer can get hot enough to cause injuryDo not touch parts being dried.
• Allow the filler to air dry for about 5-6 minutes,
then force dry with an infrared lamp.
• Use the following materials:
• 615S Primer Surfacer (DuPont)
• Primer Surfacer EP (Akzo)
• NPS735 Urethane Primer Surfacer (R-M)
• Let the primer air dry for 5-10 minutes, then force
dry with a infrared lamp.
NOTE: Keep the lamp 40-50 cm (16-20 in) from the
filler while drying.
• Stop drying the filler if a white mark appears when
the surface is scratched with your nail. Wet or dry
sand the surface flat and smooth with a #280 or
#320 paper.
6.
Air Blowing/Degreasing
Air blow the surface to be repaired, then degrease with
a wax and grease remover (for USA usage-Dupont
38125 Enamel Reducer).
NOTE: Also clean and degrease surfaces where masking
tape will be attached.
7.
Masking
Mask the areas surrounding the damage to prevent
overspray from the primer.
8.
Application and Drying of Primer/Drying
NOTE: Keep the dryer 40-50 cm (16-20 in) from the
surface.
9. Polishing Undercoat
• Remove the masking paper and tape.
• Check that the undercoat has dried thoroughly, then
dry or wet sand the surface with a #280 or #320
paper.
NOTE:
• Use a rubber block and sand flat and smooth.
• Sand the entire surface to be refinished.
10. Air Blowing/Degreasing
• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210 kPa (2.1 kgf/cm2, 30 psi) air nozzle.
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
injury.
Air blow all the surfaces, then degrease with wax and
grease remover (for USA usage-DuPont 38125 Enamel
Reducer).
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
• Spray the primer over the filler and surface (use
epoxy or urethane 2-part primer).
Spray : 2-3 coats.
NOTE: Also degrease the surfaces where masking tape
will be attached.
11. Masking
Mask the undamaged areas surrounding the damage to
prevent overspray from primer surfacer (undercoat).
NOTE: Use masking tape and paper to mask the body.
A vinyl cover may also be used to effectively mask the
body.
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Table of Contents
12. Application of Intermediate Coat
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator,
gloves,
eye
protection
and
appropriate clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
• Use the same color paint as the top coat. Spray it
over the surface until the undercoat (primer surfacer) is fully covered.
• Spray the paint slightly thicker than normal to allow
for loss during subsequent polishing.
• Super ponacle II (R-M)
• Super Centri (DuPont)
• Auto cryl (Akzo)
13. Polishing of Intermediate Coat
• Check that the paint coat has dried thoroughly, then
dry or wet sand the surface with a #600 and #800
paper.
NOTE: Use a rubber block and sand flat and smooth,
being careful not to expose the undercoat.
15. Masking
• Remove all existing masking paper, then mask with
new paper.
• Use a heat-resistant masking tape (SCOTCH TAPE)
where tape is attached directly to the body.
• Use brown paper or masking roll paper to cover.
NOTE:
• Mask the area surrounding the damage sufficiently
to prevent overspray. It is also a good practice to use
a vinyl cover to protect other areas.
• Protect resin parts with aluminum foil under the
brown paper or masking paper to prevent damage
due to heat during baking.
16. Application of Top Coat/Drying
• Prior to putting the car in the painting booth, thoroughly clean the interior and spray water over the
floor. Be careful about blowing dust and dirt.
• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210 kPa (2.1 kgf/cm2, 30 psi) air nozzle.
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
injury.
• Air blow and degrease the surface before spraying
the paint. Also clean the surface with a tack cloth.
Polishing of Top Coat (if damaged):
Use the same technique described above.
14. Air Blowing/Degreasing
• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210 kPa (2.1 kgf/cm2, 30 psi) air nozzle.
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
injury.
• Air blow the entire surface, then degrease with wax
and grease remover (for USA usage-Dupont 38125
Enamel Reducer).
• For shading or spot painting, polish the area with a
polishing compound. Sand with a #2000 paper to
give a better bonding surface for the subsequent
paint.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator,
gloves,
eye
protection
and
appropriate clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
• Spray color-matched top coat over the prepared
surface. Apply 2-3 coats in two directions until the
intermediate coat is fully covered.
NOTE: For application of the top coat, refer to step 12
"Application of Intermediate Coat."
Solid color: Color enamel + Color clear coat
Metallic color: Metallic enamel + Clear coat
Pearl color: Pearl enamel + Clear coat
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Table of Contents
Paint
Refinishing Procedures (cont'd)
Body parts being dried with an
industrial dryer can get hot enough to cause injury.
Do not touch parts being dried.
• After spraying, allow the paint to settle for about
10 minutes, then force dry with an infrared lamp.
NOTE: Follow the paint manufacturer's instructions.
17. Polishing/Buffing
• Let the paint dry gradually, then polish the surface
carefully using a polishing compound and sponge
buff.
• To remove lint or dirt, wet sand the surface with
#2000 paper or finer first, then polish with
compound.
NOTE: Polish all roughness caused by sanding thoroughly. To do this, first polish with very fine compound, then with ultra fine compound.
• After polishing, remove the masking paper and
tape, then wash the entire vehicle thoroughly.
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Table of Contents
Refinishing Procedures
NOTE: The refinishing steps
as on pages 8-7 and 8-8.
through
are the same
12. Application of Intermediate Coat 1/Drying
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator,
gloves,
eye
protection
and
appropriate clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
• Spray either 2-part epoxy or urethane primer surfacer
to the polished primed surface as an intermediate
coat.
• Let the paint coat air dry for 5-10 minutes, then
force dry with an infrared lamp.
NOTE: Keep the dryer 40-50 cm (16-20 in) from the
surface.
For replacement parts:
Spray intermediate coat 2 over the surface.
NOTE:
• For inner surfaces, you may start with Step 16
"Application of Intermediate Coat 2."
• Top coat enamel is used for this purpose
13. Polishing of Intermediate Coat 1
Check that the undercoat is dried thoroughly, then dry
or wet sand the surface with a #400 or #600 paper.
NOTE: Use a rubber block and sand flat and smooth,
covering entire surface.
14. Air Blowing/Degreasing
• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210kPa (2.1 kg/cm2, 30 psi) air nozzle.
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
injury.
Air blow all the surface, then degrease with a wax and
grease remover (for USA usage-DuPont 38125 Enamel
Reducer).
15. Masking
Check the masking paper (Step 11) for tears or
fouling, and repair or reinforce as necessary (see page
8-8).
16. Application of Intermediate Coat 2
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator,
gloves,
eye
protection
and
appropriate clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
• Use the same color paint as the top coat, and spray
it over the surface until the intermediate coat
(primer surfacer) is fully covered.
• Spray the paint slightly thicker than normal to allow
for loss during subsequent polishing.
• Super ponacle II (R-M)
• Super Centari (Du Pont)
• Auto cryl (Akzo)
17. Polishing of Intermediate Coat 2
• Check that the paint coat has been dried thoroughly,
then dry or wet sand the surface with a #600,
#800, or #1000 paper.
NOTE: Use a rubber block and sand flat and smooth,
being careful not to expose the intermediate coat 1.
Polishing of Top Coat (if damaged):
• Use the same technique described above.
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Table of Contents
NH-585P (Cayman White Pearl) Paint
Refinishing Procedures (cont'd)
18. Air Blowing/Degreasing
• Ventilate
when
spraying
paint.
Most
paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed.
• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210kPa (2.1 kg/cm2, 30 psi) air nozzle.
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
respirator,
injury.
• Air blow the entire surface, then degrease with a wax
Read the paint label
before
opening paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
gloves,
eye
protection
and
appropriate clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
and grease remover (for USA usage-DuPont 38125
Enamel Reducer).
• For shading or spot painting, polish the area with a
• Spray color-matched top coat over the prepared
polishing compound. Sand with a #2000 paper to
surface. Apply 2-3 coats in two directions until the
give a better bonding surface for the subsequent
intermediate coat 2 is fully covered.
paint.
NOTE: For application of the top coat, refer to Step 16
19. Masking
"Application of Intermediate Coat 2."
Pearl color: Pearl enamel + clear coat
• Remove all existing masking papers, then mask
Body
with new papers.
• Use a heat-resistant masking tape (SCOTCH TAPE)
•
where tape is attached directly to the body.
Use brown paper or masking roll paper to cover.
parts
being
dried
with
an
industrial dryer can get hot enough to cause injury. Do
no touch parts being dried.
• After spraying, allow the paint to settle for about
10 minutes, then force dry with an infrared lamp.
NOTE:
•
Mask the area surrounding the damage sufficiently
NOTE: Follow the paint manufacturer's instructions.
to prevent overspray. It is also a good practice to use
a vinyl cover to protect other areas.
•
Protect resin parts with aluminum foil under the
21. Polishing/buffing
brown paper or masking paper to prevent damage to
due to heat during baking.
20. Application of Top Coat Spraying/drying
•
Let the paint dry gradually, then polish the surface
carefully using a polishing compound and sponge
buffing pad.
• To remove lint or dirt, wet sand the surface with
• Prior to putting the car in the painting booth, thoroughly clean the interior and spray water over the
#2000 paper or finer first, then polish with
compound.
floor. Be careful about blowing dust and dirt.
NOTE: Polish all roughness caused by sanding thor• Air dry and degrease the surface before spraying the
paint. Also clean the surface with a tack cloth.
oughly. To do this, first polish with very fine compound, then with ultra fine compound.
• After polishing, remove the masking paper and
tape and wash the entire vehicle thoroughly.
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Table of Contents
Color Matching
Repair of NH-585P (cayman white Pearl) paint coat requires
different procedures from that of metallic and three-coat pearl
paint coats.
Mixing (Reference):
The paint prepared should be mixed with thinner and hardner as follows.
Determination of color:
NOTE: The following examples are based on the paints
manufactured by ISAM Paint Co., Ltd High Art #3000).
1. Using a #800 - #1000 sandpaper, sand the damaged paint
coat until the intermediate coat 2 appears.
2.
Polish the exposed paint coat with an ultra fine compound, then compare its color with the color sample
provided.
3.
Prepare a paint based on the color sample selected
according to the instructions.
4.
After preparing, check that the paint prepared matches
the color sample selected in step 2.
The above paints and materials or their equivalents should
be used.
NOTE: Follow the paint manufacturer's instructions when
mixing the paint and other materials.
Refinishing Procedures:
•
•
NOTE: On pearl paint, the color of the intermediate coat 2
will determine the final color of the paint repair.
•
Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint contains
substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read
the paint label before opening paint container.
Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator,
gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when
painting.
Paint is flammable. Store in a safe place, and keep it
away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
1. To prepare the first coat (paint
) add a 1 part of
paint to 1 part of paint
and mix well.
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Table of Contents
NH-585P (Cayman White Pearl) Paint
Color Matching (cont'd)
2.
Pour the mixture through a filter, then spray 2-3 light
coats over the damaged surface.
NOTE: Spray the mixture until the intermediate coat 2
is thoroughly covered.
3. Prepare paint
for graduation by mixing 1 part of
Paint
with 19 parts of the paint
Stir the mixture
well.
4.
Pour the mixture through a filter, then spray 2-3 light
coats of the filtered mixture over paint Start at the center,
then work toward the edge.
NOTE:
• Check that the painted coat matches the color
of the body paint while spraying.
• Application of the mixture will determine the final
color of the paint repair. Do not spray the mixture
excessively as this may alter the final color of the
repair.
5. Apply 1-2 light coats of paint
over the repaired
surface.
6. For the final top coat, add 15% thinner to a 4 : 1
mixture of the clear paint and hardener.
7. Spray 2-3 light final top coats over the damaged area.
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Soft Chipping Guard Primer Coat
General
The removal of paint and undercoating by stones and gravel immediately exposes metal to the atmosphere, causing it to rust. The
thickness of this rust increases if the process continues unchecked. The soft chipping guard primer protects against damage due
to the impact of flying objects. The purpose of this guide is to provide information you will find useful when repairing damage to
the protective coating. Refer to the Soft Chipping Primer Undercoating Diagram.
The soft chipping guard primer is applied over the E.D. (Electrostatically Deposited) primer. It is followed by guide coating and top
coating.
The soft chipping guard primer produces a smooth surface when dry. It should be sprayed so the thickness of the protective film
is 20 microns.
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Soft Chipping Guard Primer Coat
Coating Diagram
The diagram shows the areas to which soft
chipping primer is to be applied.
NOTE: Make sure to coat the flange on front
and rear wheel arches.
Unit: mm (in)
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Table of Contents
Types of Soft Chipping Guard Primer (Reference)
Repair Materials and Tools
Gun and brushes:
Materials:
•
• Use primers equivalent to the ones shown in Types of
Spray gun
Chipping Guard Primer (Reference).
NOTE: Any gun having a tip of more than 1.0 mm
(0.04 in) in diameter may be used for spraying the
• Make sure to keep the thickness of the coat at 20
microns.
primer.
• Viscosity measure
Iwata-type (IMS) cup, Ford cup
•
• Masking tape, paper, vinyl sheet and plate (veneer and
Beaker
1-2
•
Masking:
(1.05-2.10 US. qt, 0.9-2 Imp. qt) in capacity
steel).
• Masking plates are not necessary when spraying in a
Stirring stick
booth.
Tools:
Protectors:
• Air or double action sander
• Wear an approved respirator or dust mask, gloves,
•
Sandpaper (#240-#400)
safety goggles and other protective clothing.
•
Rags.
Thinner and cleaner:
•
Use the thinner specified for the primer.
• Any commercially available lacquer thinner may be used
to clean the gun.
• Most paints contain substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label before opening the
container.
• Spray paint only in a well ventilated area.
• Cover spilled paint with sand, or wipe it up at once.
• Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting. Avoid contact with skin.
• If paint gets in your mouth or on your skin, rinse or wash thoroughly with water. If paint gets in your eyes, flush with
water and get prompt medical attention.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
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Soft Chipping Guard Primer Coat
Coating Procedures
NOTE: This section covers the application of the soft
NOTE: Measure the primer and hardener so they are in
chipping primer to the replacement part.
correct ratio.
1.
Sanding the replacement part
Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye injury.
Sand the area to be painted with #240-#400 sandpaper.
• Add the specified thinner to the mixture of hardener
NOTE:
• Do not oversand the edges or corners of the part.
• Do not expose bare metal.
2.
Air blowing/degreasing
and primer to attain the proper viscosity for spray-
ing.
2C 68°F (20°C) 18 sec ± 1
• These substances are not available in the U.S.A.
Honda recommends using DuPont's 123 Vinyl
Coating, or Sherwin-Williams' Vinyl Gravel Guard.
• Do not use high air pressure; use only an ap2
proved, 210 kPa (2.1 kgf/cm , 30 psi) air nozzle.
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
Follow
the
manufacturer's
instructions
for
application.
• Once mixed with the hardener and thinner, the
injury.
• Paint thinner is flammable. Store it in a safe
primer must be used within the times shown below.
place, and keep it away from sparks, flames or
cigarettes.
Clean the surface with compressed air and wax and
grease remover.
3.
Masking
• Place masking tape or paper around the surface to
be painted.
• Cover as wide an area as possible with tape or paper
to keep primer from spreading.
• Most paints contain substances that are harmful
if inhaled or swallowed. Read the paint label
before opening the container. Spray paint only in
4.
Spraying chipping guard primer
a well ventilated area.
• Cover spilled paint with sand, or wipe it up at
•
Stir the primer thoroughly.
• Put the primer in a beaker and weigh the needed
amount of primer to be used.
•
Mix the hardener into
the primer, following the
manufacturer's instructions.
once.
• Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate clothing when painting.
Avoid contact with skin.
• If paint gets in your mouth or on your skin, rinse
or wash thoroughly with water. If paint gets in
your eyes, flush with water and get prompt
medical attention.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
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• Fill the gun's paint cup with the primer. Use a
7.
Intermediate and Top coating
strainer when pouring the primer into the cup.
• Sand the chipping guard primer film with #280• Primer should never be applied to a dirty or greasy
#400 sandpaper.
surface. Before spraying, blow dust and dirt off the
surface and clean with wax and grease remover.
• Follow the intermediate/top coating procedures (see
pages 8-9 and 8-11).
(Method of spraying)
• Do not try to cover the surface with one heavy
coat. Apply several thin coats.
NOTE:
• Spray coat 4-5 coats to get 20 microns of thickness, as one coat deposits 5-7 microns.
• Spray the primer at 250-300 kPa (2.5-3.0 kgf/
cm2, 35.6-42.7 psi) pressure. Spraying with improper air pressure will cause imperfections.
•
Open the gun 3-4 turns.
• Wipe
up
unwanted
primer
immediately
with
thinner.
5.
Cleaning spray gun
• After spraying, be sure to clean the spray gun
thoroughly with thinner or solvent.
• The gun will be permanently clogged if the primer is
allowed to dry.
6.
Drying
• After spraying the chipping guard primer, air-dry for
7-10 minutes to evaporate the thinner in the
primer. Then dry it with infrared lamps at 176°F
(80°C) for 30-40 minutes.
NOTE: Insufficient baking may cause pinholes if the
primer coat is too thick.
• The
temperature
lamps
and
drying
time
recommendations should be followed closely.
NOTE: The upper line of time shows specifications for High Primer Surfacer 2C, and the lower line Auto Primer Surfacer Mighty.
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Table of Contents
Types and Materials of Exterior Resin Parts
NOTE: A standard symbol is stamped on the underside
of each resin part to show the type of material of used.
• No.
• No.
: Repair procedures see page 9-6
: Repair procedures see page 9-13
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Table of Contents
Polypropylene (PP) Resin Parts
General
The front bumper, rear bumper, protector moldings, and side sill panel are made of polypropylene (PP) resin. They can be repaired if the
damage or deformation is minor in nature. This section covers PP repair. Repairing PP is different from other resins such as ABS and
urethane.
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Polypropylene (PP) Resin Parts
Repair Materials and Tools
The following materials and tools are required to resin
1. Bumper Primer (Clear): Premixed type
bumpers:
The primer provides a good support for the filler and
Adhesive and Filler (examples):
• Bumper primer (clear type)
•
Bond quick mender
•
High art mat black
•
High art thinner
primer surfacer. It is applied to the surface of the
bumper.
• High art hardener
Primer surfacer (examples).
• Dual-liquid type bumper primer surfacer (gray) Reference (Isam Paint)
• Pigment: (1kg) (35.3 oz)
•
Hardener: (100g) (3.5 oz)
•
Thinner: (900
) (30.4
2.
. oz, 31.7 Imp. oz)
PUTTY BOND QUICK MENDER
After the PP primer has dried thoroughly, apply the
PUTTY BOND QUICK MENDER.
NOTE: Follow the manufacturer's recommendations
-1. Mix one part of the mender (A) and one part of the
Tools:
•
Putty knife
• Brush
• Base (putty)
• Masking tape
•
•
• Masking paper
Sandpaper
Cutter
hardener (B) and stir thoroughly.
NOTE: Do not mix the mender and hardener in excess of
20g (0.7oz) at a time.
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Table of Contents
Polypropylene (PP) Resin Parts
Materials and Tools (cont'd)
-2.Hardening starts immediately after mixing.
Practical hardness will be obtained within 60 minutes. The surface will be tacky within 5 minutes and
• Ventilate
when
spraying
paint.
Most
paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled or
nearly hardened after 15 minutes. It takes 12 hours
swallowed. Read the paint label before opening
for the surface to harden thoroughly 68°F (20°C)
the paint container.
-3.Sanding can be done after:
• Avoid contact with skin.
Wear an approved
respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
3.
Primer Surfacer
Drying time:
NOTE: Use a dual-liquid type bumper primer surfacer
(gray).
• The primer surface is used to protect the PP resin
surface and to fill cavities or flaws in the intermediate
and top coats.
• Mix 10 parts of primer surfacer and 1 part of hardener. Add the specific thinner (30-60%) to the
mixture of the hardener and primer to attain the
proper viscosity for spraying.
4. Intermediate and Top Paint Coats (Body color)
NOTE:
• The paints are the dual liquid type based on the color
chart.
• Measure the pigment and hardener as described so
they are in correct ratio.
• Use the acrylic urethane paint prepared according to
the mixing chart as the intermediate coat.
Mixing Ratio:
Mix 5 parts of body color pigment to 1 part of additive.
Mix 4 parts of the mixture of the pigment and additive
with 1 part of the hardener.
NOTE:
• Dilute the mixture with 40-50% of the specified
thinner (Highart Thinner).
•
Be sure to mix the correct amount of the additive.
• Use a spray gun to apply the paint. Do not use a
brush.
NOTE: The HIGH ART MAT BLACK SURFACER is a
dual liquid type. If mixed, it will harden in a matter of
hours.
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Refinishing Processes
Table of Contents
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Table of Contents
Polypropylene (PP) Resin Parts
Repair Procedures
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Table of Contents
Refinishing Procedures
1.
Sanding damaged areas
Shallow scratch:
• Level and finish damaged areas with #240-#400
sandpaper.
• Polish the leveled area with #400 sandpaper.
NOTE:
• Use a flexible block to sand the surface evenly.
• Do not remove too much material.
NOTE: Be sure to use a tack cloth. Dust and dirt are
electrostatically drawn to the surface.
3. Applying bumper primer (clear type).
• Stir thoroughly before applying the primer. Use a
spray gun or brush depending on working conditions.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator,
gloves,
eye
protection
and
appropriate clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
• Cover as wide an area as possible, except for shallow
grooves (2-3 coats).
Deep groove/tear:
• Level and finish burrs and other irregularities with
#240 sandpaper. Keep the surface as even as
possible.
2.
NOTE:
50°F (10°C).
• Apply the primer to the back of the bumper if the
damage is a tear or hole.
Degreasing/Cleaning
• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210 kPa (2.1 kgf/cm2,30 psi) air nozzle.
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
injury.
• Clean with wax and grease remover and dry with
compressed air.
• Dry the primer thoroughly with an infrared dryer or
surface with a tack cloth.
4. Drying bumper primer.
Body
parts
being
dried
with
an
industrial dryer can get hot enough to cause injury.
Do not touch parts being dried.
other dryer suitable for the purpose.
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Table of Contents
Polypropylene (PP) Resin Parts
Refinishing Procedures (cont'd)
• If the damage or groove is shallow, heat the entire
surface evenly. Apply heat locally if the bumper is
gouged or torn open.
NOTE:
• Use a dryer whenever possible.
• Do not allow temperature to exceed 158°F (70°C) or
the bumper will deform
6.
Drying filler
Drying time:
7.
Sanding filler
To prevent eye injury, wear goggles
or safety glasses whenever sanding, cutting or
grinding.
Wet sand first with #240 sandpaper then with #400
sandpaper.
NOTE: Sand the surface evenly, particularly at the area
where the PP resin and mender meet.
5.
Apply filler (BOND QUICK MENDER.)
Mix the mender (A) into the hardener (B) in the ratio of
I to I, and stir until they are thoroughly mixed.
-1 .Apply the mixture over the damaged area with a
putty knife using light pressure.
-2. Even out the surface to match the contour of the
bumper.
-3. If there is a hole, cover it with a masking tape from
the back, and apply the filler over the outside
surface.
After the filler has been dried, remove the tape
and apply filler to the side that was taped.
NOTE: Apply filler so it extends over more than the
damaged area.
8.
Degreasing/Cleaning
• Blow off the sanded surface, then clean with wax
and grease remover.
• Do not use high air pressure; use only an ap
proved, 210 kPa (2.1 kgf/cm2,30 psi) air nozzle.
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
injury.
• Remove all dust and dirt with a tack cloth.
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9. Spraying dual-liquid bumper primer surfacer (gray)
NOTE: Use #600 or finer sandpaper as any paper
coarser than this might scratch the surface.
NOTE: Use the urethane bumper primer.
• Do not use high air pressure; use only an ap• Ventilate
when
spraying
paint.
Most
paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed.
proved, 210 kPa (2.1kgf/cm2, 30 psi) air nozzle
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
Read the paint label before
injury.
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator,
gloves,
eye
protection
and
-2.Air blow the surface to be repaired, then degrease
with a wax and grease remover.
appropriate clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
Spray the primer surfacer over a wider area than the
filler and the exposed surfaces of bumper primer.
-3.Also clean and degrease where masking tape will be
attached.
11. Intermediate coating
NOTE: Spray 2-3 coats to get 20-25 microns of thickness.
NOTE: Intermediate coating is recommended
for bright colors.
•
Use the top coat enamel.
• Ventilate
when
spraying
paint.
Most
paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
10. Drying and polishing
Force dry the primer surfacer with infrared lamps or
other industrial dryer.
Body parts being dried with an
industrial dryer can get hot enough to cause injury.
Do not touch parts being dried.
Drying temperature:
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator,
gloves,
eye
protection
and
appropriate clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
• Mix the additive into the solid enamel color, metallic
enamel or pearl enamel color in the ratio of 1 to 5 (by
weight).
• Mix the hardener into the mixture of pigment and
additive described above in the ratio of 1 to 4 (by
weight).
NOTE:
• Use a dryer whenever possible.
• Do not allow the temperature to exceed 158°F
(70°C).
- 1 .After force drying, wet sand the primer surface with
#600 sandpaper.
NOTE:
Keep the correct ratio,
especially of the
additive. Excessive additive takes longer to dry.
• Adjust to the proper viscosity for spray by adding the
thinner specified for the primer into the mixture of
primer additive and hardener.
Viscosity: 68°F (20°C) 11-13 sec.
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Table of Contents
Polypropylene (PP) Resin Parts
Refinishing Procedures (cont'd)
NOTE: It is not necessary to apply the clear coat.
• Spray 2-3 coats of the top coat enamel to get 15-20
microns of thickness. The primer surfacer (gray)
should not show through the top coat.
NOTE:
• Apply the top coat enamel to the repaired surface.
• Apply the top coat enamel to the entire surface of
the primer surfacer when replacement is necessary.
12. Degreasing and Cleaning
Air dry the entire surface, then clean with wax and
grease remover (for USA usage-Dupont 38125 Enamel
Reducer).
NOTE: For shading or spot painting, polish the area
with a polishing compound. Also sand with a #1500
paper to make a better bonding surface for the paint.
14. Top Coating
• Air dry and degrease the surface before spraying the
paint. Also clean the surface with a tack cloth.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved
respirator,
gloves,
eye
protection
and
appropriate clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
• Remove dust and dirt from the surface to be coated
with compressed air, then use a tack cloth.
• Use a strainer when filling the cup with paint.
• Spray the paint evenly over the surface so the
replacement part is completely covered.
• For application of the top coating refer to step 11
" Intermediate coating."
NOTE: Do not try to cover the surface with one heavy
coat. Apply several thin coats.
13. Masking
• Remove all existing masking paper, then mask with
new paper.
• Use a heat resistant type masking tape (SCOTCH
TAPE) where tape is attached directly to the
bumper.
• Use brown paper or masking roll paper to cover.
NOTE:
• Mask the area completely to prevent overspray.
• Protect resin parts with aluminum foil under the
brown paper or masking paper to prevent damage
due to heat during baking.
•
With solid color (2-coat type), metallic color and
pearl color enamels, allow final coat to flash-off
(5-20 minutes) before applying clear coat.
• Mix the additive into the clear in the ratio of 1 to 5.
Adding the hardener and adjusting viscosity should
be done the same way as described on the previous
page.
Viscosity: 68°F (20°C) 13-15 sec.
Mixing Ratio (weight)
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15. Drying top coat
Body parts being dried with an
industrial dryer can get hot enough to cause injury.
Do not touch parts being dried.
•
Before force drying, let it air dry for 5-10 minutes.
• Force dry the sprayed surface under the infrared
lamps for 60-90 minutes.
• Keep the drying temperature between 140°F (60°C)
and 158°F (70°C).
NOTE: Take care not to let the heat deform the part
during the drying process.
16. Polishing and Buffing
• Let the paint dry gradually, then polish the surface
carefully using a polishing compound and sponge
buff.
• To remove lint or dirt, wet sand the surface with
#2000 or finer paper first, then polish with compound.
NOTE: Polish all roughness caused by sanding
thoroughly. To do this, first polish with very fine
compound, then with ultra fine compound.
• After polishing, remove the masking paper and
tape and wash the entire vehicle thoroughly.
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Table of Contents
ABS/PC Resin Parts
General
The door mirror housing, license plate trim, and front grille are made ABS resin.
They can be repaired if the damage or deformation is minor in nature. This section covers ABS repair. Repairing ABS is different from
other resins such as PP and urethane.
NOTE:
• The ABS resin is the copolymer resin consisting of the three monomers of acrylonitrile, butadiene, and styrene.
• Polycarbonate is a generic name for high polymers which have the carbonic ester structure in the structural unit. The most
prominent feature of polycarbonate is its tensile strength which shows the same level of yielding point as metals in the normal
temperature. It also has outstanding impact strength compared to other plastics.
NOTE: The following repair procedures also apply
to the door outer handle (PC).
Repair Materials
Examples:
Primer/Primer surfacer:
Adhesive and filler: Epoxy
Use when the resin material is exposed.
•
• R-M fast filler + R-M flex primer (R-M)
Kemit TE2301 bond quick mender
Filler:
•
R-M Stop zinc (R-M)
• 3M 5900 Repair Material (Akzo)
NOTE: Follow the manufacturer's specification.
Top coat:
• Super ponacle II,Solo de Diamont, Diamont (R-M)
• Autocryl Auto base (Akzo)
•
Super Centari (DuPont)
• Plasto flex primer 2 coat (Akzo)
•
1220RH-S filler primer (DuPont)
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Table of Contents
Repair Procedures
A. Deep scratches, when filling:
(1) Sand the damage section. (#120~#240)
(2) Apply the filler and dry.
(3) Sand the filler (#240~#400)
(4) Coat with the primer/primer surfacer and dry.
(5) Sand the primer surfacer. (#600~#800)
(6) Top coating.
B. Shallow scratches:
(1) Coat with the primer/primer surfacer.
(2) Sand the primer surfacer. (#600~#800)
(3) Top coating.
C. Repaint:
(1) Sand the primer surfacer. (#600~#800)
(2) Top coating.
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Table of Contents
Refinishing Procedures
1.
Base material reconditioning (sanding)
-1. Repaint and replacement part
Lightly sand the part with #400, #600 or #800.
-2. Slight scores or scratches
Use a flexible sanding block and wet sand the
damaged section with #400, #600.
NOTE: Sand level to remove damage.
-3. Deep scratches, when filling.
Use a flexible sanding block and wet sand the
damaged section with #240, #400.
2. Degreasing and cleaning
Clean the repaired area with wax and grease remover,
then blow with air dry.
• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210 kPa (2.1 kgf/cm2, 30 psi) air nozzle.
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
injury.
NOTE: Wipe dust off surface with a tack cloth.
3.
Filling, drying and sanding
Apply the filler in several thin coats.
NOTE:
Mix and apply the filler according to the
manufacturer's instructions.
-1.Dry the filler with an infrared dryer for 5 or 6
minutes.
Be sure to keep the dryer 40-50 cm (16-20 in) away
from the surface.
-2. Scratch the filled surface with your nail. If the
surface is white when scratched, dry sand and wet
sand with the #240-#400 paper. Be sure to sand
level.
4.
Cleaning with compressed air, and degreasing
Blow the entire area to be coated with compressed air,
then clean with wax and grease remover.
• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210 kPa (2.1 kgf/cm2, 30 psi) air nozzle.
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
injury.
NOTE: Clean the whole surface to the help the masking
tape adhere securely.
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Table of Contents
ABS/PC Resin Parts
Refinishing Procedures (cont'd)
5.
Masking
Use the masking tape and paper to mask the area that
should not be sprayed.
6. Coat with primer/primer surfacer, drying and sanding.
• Spray the primer surfacer over the filled area.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210 kPa (2.1kgf/cm 2 , 30 psi) air nozzle.
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
injury.
• The coating thickness should be 20-25 microns.
NOTE: Follow the primer/primer surfacer manufacturer's
instructions.
-1. Drying
• Let the primer surfacer dry naturally for 5 to 10
minutes, then dry with a infrared dryer.
Body parts being dried with an
industrial dryer can get hot enough to cause injury.
Do not touch parts being dried.
• Be sure to keep the dryer 40-50 cm (16-20 in)
away from the paint film.
-2. Sanding
Lightly dry sand the whole area to be painted with
#600, #800 sandpaper.
7.
Blow off with compressed air, then clean with wax
and grease remover.
• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210 kPa (2.1kgf/cm 2 , 30 psi) air nozzle.
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
injury.
NOTE: Clean the whole surface to help the masking
tape adhere securely.
8. Top coating
• Remove dust with a tack cloth before spraying.
• Spray the top coating. Spray until the primer surfacer is covered.
• The coating thickness should be 30-35 microns.
• Ventilate when spraying paint. Most paint
contains substances that are harmful if inhaled
or swallowed. Read the paint label before
opening the paint container.
• Avoid contact with skin. Wear an approved respirator, gloves, eye protection and appropriate
clothing when painting.
• Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and
keep it away from sparks, flames or cigarettes.
• Do not use high air pressure; use only an approved, 210 kPa (2.1kgf/cm2, 30 psi) air nozzle.
• Wear goggles or safety glasses to prevent eye
injury.
NOTE: For the recommended top coat paint, refer to
"Example of repair materials".
Solid color: Color enamel + color clear coat
Metallic:
Metallic enamel + clear coat
Pearl:
Pearl enamel + clear coat
9. Drying
After top coating for about 10 minutes, then dry with
an infrared dryer.
NOTE: Follow the paint manufacturer's specification to
dry properly.
Table of Contents
Main Menu
Glossary
All paint
Painting of complete surface.
Air blow
Using compressed air to blow away dust and debris.
Block paint
Painting a section only, such as a door.
Clear paint (clear coat)
Clear paint without dye (pigment).
Double coat
Application of two paint coats.
Dry coat
Paint which left the spray gun and dried partially before it reached the surface, thereby
making the painted surface rough. Dry coating is caused by too little paint being fed, too
high an air pressure, too much distance between the painted surface and the gun, or
moving the gun too fast.
Dry film
Paint which has dried completely.
Dust coat
Paint is applied thinner than a dry coat. Painted surface becomes rough.
ED painting
Electrostatic discharge painting.
Enamel
Finishing paint pigmented with dye.
Featheredging
Smoothing off the edges of painted surfaces.
Flash off
Evaporation of the paint solvent. (Flash off time is the period between paint coat applications.)
Ford cup
A type of viscosity meter .
Gun stroke
Movement of the paint gun.
Hardener
Hardening agent of two-liquid type paint or fillers.
Polycyanates and oxides are used for hardeners.
Heat-hardening
paint
acrylic
resin
Composed of acrylic resin and meramine resin, and hardened (forms a paint film) by
baking.
(cont'd)
Main Menu
Table of Contents
Glossary
(cont'd)
Lacquer
A type of paint that uses cellulose nitrate or other chemicals, and which dries by
evaporation of its solvent agent.
Meramine resin
Used as component for aminoalkyd resin paint and heat-hardening acrylic resin paint.
Metallic-base paint
Paint with aluminum powder for metallic tone.
Mist coat
Painting for fade-in sections. A small amount of paint may be dissolved with
slow-evaporating thinner, or thinner alone may be applied with low pressure.
150-200kPa (1.5-2. 0kgf/cm 2 ,21.3-28. 4psi)
Mixing scale
Color mixing device.
Overlap
Blending of spray patterns.
Overspray
Spraying other than the area that needs painting.
Paddle
A tool to mix paint.
Paint dust
Dust of paint formed by spraying.
Paper dispenser
A paper posting device (masker) that combines tape and paper.
Scrapes
Traces of scratches.
Scuffing
Particles on the painted surface are lightly polished with fine emery paper (#600 or over).
Set (setting)
Evaporation time of solvent in the paint, before drying the layer forcefully or by baking.
(May be considered the same as flash-off time.)
Single coat
Application of paint in single layer.
Spot paint
Painting of small section, such as for touch-up.
Undercoat
Undercoat paint (such as primer and surfacer).
May be applied to lower section of car for noise prevention and rustproof ing.
Main Menu
Wet coat
Table of Contents
Paint is applied with an excess of solvent, thereby producing a painted surface that's
smooth, glossy, and has a wet look.
Wet film
Paint which has not dried completely.
Wet on wet
Application of the next coat of paint before the preceding layer has dried completely.
Wool bonnet
Wool grinder for compound polishing.
Main Menu
General Safety Precautions
Before beginning work:
Disconnect the battery to reduce the possibility of fire caused by electrical shorts.
Check for fuel leaks and repair as necessary.
Remove the fuel tank and/or fuel lines if welding equipment is to be used near the fuel system.
Before welding, sanding or cutting, protect carpets and seats with fire-proof covers.
Follow standard safety practices when using toxic or flammable liquids.
Use standard safety equipment when spraying paint, welding, cutting, sanding or grinding. Standard safety equipment includes:
Respirator and filter masks—Designed to filter out toxic fumes, mist, dust or other airborn particles. Use a respirator or filter mask
designed to protect you from the hazards of the particular job; some respirators, for example, are designed to filter out only dust
and airborn particles, not toxic fumes.
Safety goggles or glasses—Designed to protect your eyes from projectiles, dust particles or splashing liquid.
Gloves—Rubber gloves protect against corrosive chemicals. Welding gloves protect against burns and abrasions caused by
welding, sanding or grinding.
Safety shoes—Non-slip soles protect against slipping. Metal toe inserts protect against falling objects.
Ear plugs—Protect eardrums from harmful noise levels.
During work:
Do not smoke while working near the fuel system.
Deposit gas or solvent-soaked shop towels in an approved container.
Always attach a safety cable when using a hydraulic ram or a frame straightening table: do not stand in direct line with the chains
used on such equipment.
Main Menu
Service Precautions
Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)
The Acura 2.5TL/3.2TL SRS includes a driver's airbag, located in the steering wheel hub, and a front passenger's airbag located in the
dashboard above the glove box. The SRS unit is not part of the airbag assembly and has built-in sensors (SRS-Type III).
NOTE: The following precautions should be observed when performing sheet metal work, paint work and repair work around
the locations of the SRS components.
SRS unit (including safing sensor and impact sensor) is located under the dashboard. Avoid strong impact with a hammer
or other tools when repairing the front side frame and the lower part of the dashboard. Do not apply heat to these areas
with a torch, etc.
All SRS electrical wiring harnesses are located under the lower part of the dashboard below the dashboard panel. (All SRS
electrical wiring harnesses are covered with yellow insulation.) Care should be taken not to damage the harness when
repairing this area.
Do not apply heat of more than 100°C (212°F) when drying painted surfaces anywhere around the locations of SRS components.
If strong impact or high temperature needs to be applied to the areas around the locations of SRS components, remove the
components before performing repair work.
If any of the SRS related components are damaged or deformed, be sure to replace them.
NOTE: Refer to the Service Manual (Supplemental Restraint System) for removal and replacement of SRS related components.
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