Bernina artista 730 User Manual

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following:

Read all instructions before using this sewing computer.

When the sewing computer is not in use, it should be disconnected from the electricity supply by removing the plug from the outlet.

DANGER

To reduce risk of electrical shock:

1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in.

2. Always unplug this sewing computer from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

WARNING

To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing computer is used by or near children and infirm persons.

2. Use this sewing computer only for its intended use as described in this manual.

Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

3. Never operate this sewing computer if

• it has a damaged cord or plug

• it is not working properly

• it has been dropped or damaged

• it has fallen into water

Return the sewing computer to the nearest authorized BERNINA dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the sewing computer with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing computer and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts.

Special care is required around the sewing needle.

6. Always use the BERNINA original stitch plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

7. Do not use bent needles.

8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.

It may deflect the needle, causing it to break.

9. Turn power switch to «0» (off) when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading or changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot etc.

10. Always unplug the sewing computer from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual.

11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

12. Do not use outdoors.

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artista 730 – Safety Instructions

1

13. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

14. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off («0») position then remove the plug from the outlet.

15. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord but grasp the plug before pulling.

16. No responsibility will be taken for any possible damage as the result of misuse of the sewing computer.

17. This sewing computer is provided with double insulation.

Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for Servicing of double-insulated machines.

18. Under no circumstances should the sewing computer be left unattended when using the embroidery module.

SERVICING DOUBLE-

INSULATED PRODUCTS

In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a double-insulated product nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should only be done by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a double-insulated product must be identical to those parts in the product. A double insulated product is marked with the words «DOUBLE

INSULATION» or «DOUBLE INSULATED».

The symbol may also be marked on the product.

This sewing and embroidery computer is intended for household use only.

!

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

2 artista 730 – Safety Instructions

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artista 730

Congratulations! With the purchase of the artista 730 , you have acquired the ultimate sewing and embroidery system available in today’s market. By purchasing this system, you established that you are a creative person who is looking for the opportunity to expand the limits of creativity.

The use of modern, future-oriented technologies in the computerized sewing and embroidery field offer you heretofore unheard of creative growth opportunities while pursuing your hobby. This system encompasses not only BERNINA ® hard- and software products, it also offers you a direct connection to myartista Portal, which can keep you in constant contact with the sewing and embroidery world.

BERNINA ® wants you to fully enjoy the enormous possibilities the artista computerized sewing system offers you. To do so, you must know the product. Therefore, don’t hesitate to frequent your local BERNINA ® dealer and tap the knowledge of the BERNINA ® educators.

I wish you much happiness and great satisfaction while enjoying your creative pastime.

H.P. Ueltschi

President

BERNINA Sewing Machine Manufacturers

CH-8266 Steckborn www.bernina.com

Discover your creative wings.

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Masthead

artista 730

Sewing and Embroidery Computer Instruction Manual

Text / Sewing and

Embroidery projects

Photography

Drawings

Bitmaps

Design concept

Inside cover (U2/U3)

Typesetting, layout,

DTP

Print

Copyright

Susanne Festi, Franziska Kiener, Herbert Stolz, Anna Tiberini

Ben Wiesenfarth, Konstanz: S. 8, 9, Dividers Sewing/Embroidery

Müller-Melzer ID, Kreuzlingen

Herbert Stolz, Steckborn

Silvia Bartholdi, Schaffhausen

Marlis Bennett, USA

Silvia Bartholdi, Roswitha Taubert

Heer Druck AG, Sulgen

© 2005 by BERNINA, Steckborn

All rights reserved.

In order to improve the product, and for our customers' benefit, all of the sewing and embroidery computer's features, parts, and accessories are subject to unannounced changes and alterations at any time.

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artista 730 – Sewing and Embroidery Computer Manual

Summary of the Contents

Safety Instructions

Foreword

The Sewing Computer

Practical Stitches

Decorative Stitches

Lettering

7

35

73

97

Buttonholes

Quilt Stitches

109

135

Personal Program 153

Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch

Combinations 157

Setup Program

Sewing and Sewing Computer Support

163

177

Connecting Peripherals 191

1

3

The Embroidery Computer

Important Embroidery Information

195

215

Embroidery

Saving and Deleting Motifs

223

247

Embroidery Support

Peripherals and Accessories

253

259

Glossary 265

Stitch Summary 268

Embroidery Design Collection

Index

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274

279

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Sewing – Content

The Sewing Computer

7–34

Practical Stitches

35–72

Decorative Stitches

73–96

Lettering

97–108

Buttonholes

109–134

Quilt Stitches

135–152

Personal Program

153–156

Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations

157–162

Setup Program

163–176

Sewing and Sewing Computer Support

177–190

Connecting Peripherals

191–194

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Setting up the Sewing Computer

8

Operating Instructions

11

Screen Display

23

External Functions

28

On-screen Functions

29

The Sewing Computer

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Details of the Sewing Computer

13

12

10

11

9

8

5

2

7

17 16

15

6

14

3

18

4

19

21

23

25

20

22

24

26

34

30

32

27

28

29

31

33

1

35

Front view

Setting up the Sewing Computer

36

37

38

39

8

Back view

The Sewing Computer – Setting up the Sewing Computer

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38

41

Side view (head frame)

40

45

46

47

48

49

50

51

Side view (handwheel)

43

42

44

52

53

32

33

34

35

28

29

30

31

24

25

26

27

20

21

22

23

36

37

38

39

40

41

42

43

44

45

13

14

15

16

9

10

11

12

7

8

5

6

3

4

1

2

17

18

19

46

47

48

49

50

51

52

53

Bobbin cover

Stitch plate

Attachment base for special accessories

Darning hoop connection

Presser foot

Needle clamp

Thread guide

Needle threader

Magnifying glass holder

Thread take-up cover

Thread path

Thread take-up

Bobbin pre-tension

Quick reverse button

Pattern end

Favorite function button

(programmable via Setup button)

Automatic thread cutter

Screen

Bobbin winder with on/off switch and thread cutter

Practical stitch button

Decorative stitch button (16/4 directions)

Alphabet button

Buttonhole button

Quilt stitches button

Personal program button

Sewing mode/Embroidery mode button

Stitch width knob

Stitch length knob

Needle position buttons

Creative consultant button

Tutorial button

«clr» (clear) button

Setup button

Speaker

FHS (Free Hand System) connection

Carrying handle

Horizontal spool pin

Presser foot lifter

Slide-on table socket

Presser foot pressure dial

Thread cutter on head frame

Thread guide (while winding the bobbin when sewing and embroidering)

Spool pin (vertical, collapsible)

Handwheel

Card slot for BERNINA Modem (optional accessory), Personal design cards and

Embroidery cards (optional accessories)

Headset connection (optional accessory)

Connection for USB Stick

PC connection

Embroidery module connection

(for optional accessory)

Foot control socket

Drop feed dog

Power switch on/off («0»)

Power plug socket


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9

Accessories*

The following accessories are arranged separately in the styrofoam packing or later in the suitcase system (special accessory):

• foot control

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

• instruction manual power cable warranty card

FHS presser foot lifter (Free Hand System) slide-on table seam guide for slide-on table

Seasons of Artistry

Instructional / Presentation CD-ROM

Design / Tutorial USB-Stick

BSR System

Carrier Bag

Touch Screen Stylo

• for more information for Instructional / Presentation CD-ROM see page 194

••••••••••••••••

Carrier Bag

• protects from dust and dirt

this bag can be used to transport the sewing computer. The accessories can be stored in the corresponding compartments

Accessory Box

Storing Accessories

set up the free standing accessory box by pulling both extensions out until they click into place

Both accessory boxes are equipped with one small and one large drawer each as well as two compartments for bobbins, two compartments for coded presser feet and one compartment for non-coded presser feet.

The compartments can be stored in the box (additional compartments and drawers are available as optional extras).

insert the bobbins into the compartments provided

to remove a bobbin, press the compartment holder A lightly

hang presser feet in the compartments provided

store the remaining accessories as shown in the picture

A

Suitcase System (special accessory)

The suitcase system is specially built for your sewing and embroidery computer and has integrated wheels. This allows your system to be transported easily and elegantly.

• for more information see page 262

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••

Standard Accessories*

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

• four bobbins

(+ one in bobbin case) selection of 130/705 H needles seam ripper small screwdriver angular Torx key lint brush seam guide

2 foam pads

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Overlock foot No. 2A

Buttonhole foot with code No. 3C

Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

Zipper foot No. 4

Blind stitch foot No. 5

Jeans foot No. 8

Button sew-on foot No. 18

Open embroidery foot No. 20C

Sideways motion foot No. 40C

Compensation plate for sewing buttonholes

•

•

•

• height compensating tool three spool discs oiler

USB Cable

*(can vary from country to country)

10


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Setting up the Sewing Computer

Power Cable Foot Control

B

C

A

A

C

B

Power Cable

plug A into sewing computer

plug B into electrical outlet

Foot Control Cable

plug C into sewing computer

(look for symbol)

Important! (USA/Canada only)

Use only foot controller type LV1 for sewing computer model artista 730.

Sewing Speed

• control the sewing speed by depressing the foot control

• raise or lower the needle by tapping on the foot control with your heel

Cable Tidy

wind the cable around the spool

 insert the plug into A

When Sewing

 unwind the cable to the desired length and slip into B or C

Operating Instructions

Power Switch

Important! (USA/Canada only)

This sewing computer has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended to fit only one way into a polarized outlet. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

!

Refer to the safety instructions!

Power Switch

The power switch is on the handwheel side of the sewing computer.

1 the sewing computer is switched on («1»)

0 the sewing computer is switched off («0»)

The sewing light is switched on and off with the power switch.

FHS (Free Hand System) Presser Foot Lifter

Raising and Lowering the Presser

Foot

the presser foot lifter raises and lowers the presser foot

push to the right with your knee

the presser foot is raised and the feed dog is lowered simultaneously

the feed dog comes up automatically as soon as the first stitch is sewn

Attaching the Free Hand System

insert the free hand system into the opening in the base plate

you should be able to operate the

FHS in your normal sitting position with your knee

Note:

Your dealer can adjust the position of the FHS if necessary.

The Sewing Computer – Operating Instructions

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11

Slide-on Table

Slide-on Table

•

• the slide-on table increases the sewing surface free arm for larger tubular items such as pant legs and waistbands

To Attach

needle and presser foot fully raised

slide over free arm to the right until it engages

To remove

needle and presser foot fully raised

pull to the left

remove by pulling it completely from the free arm

Seam Guide

insert into the groove (underside of table) from the right or left

• it can be freely adjusted over the whole width of the table

Scale number «0» on the slide-on table corresponds to the center needle position

Screen

The artista 730 is operated with a combination of external buttons and knobs and a touch screen.

Welcome Screen

switch sewing computer on:

•

• power switch to «1» (on)

Welcome screen appears for a few seconds can be personalized in the Setup

Program

Practical Stitch Screen

After the Welcome the Practical Stitch screen appears automatically on the screen, which shows:

A

G

H

B F C

M

D E

N

J

K

L

A Presser Foot Indicator

B Stitch width (basic setting always visible)

C Selected, active stitch and number

D Single Mode

E Combi Mode

F Needle Position (11 possibilities)

G Stitch length (basic setting always visible)

H Picture of selected, active stitch and number

(Stitch Altering Area)

J Up/down scroll arrows

K Help symbol

L Main category buttons

M Functions

N Stitch Selection by Number

12


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Winding the Bobbin

Winding the Bobbin

turn power switch to

«1» (on)

place empty bobbin on spindle

Threading the Bobbin

place thread on spool pin

attach appropriate spool disc - diameter of spool disc is disc size

following the direction of the arrow take thread through the rear guide and around the pretension stud

wrap the thread around the inner bobbin two or three times and cut off any excess thread on the thread cutter

press the engaging lever against the bobbin

•

• the bobbin winder works automatically the motor stops automatically when the bobbin is full

remove the bobbin

Thread Cutter

cut the thread on the thread cutter

Winding the Bobbin While Sewing or Embroidering

place thread spool on vertical spool then, following the direction of the arrow, take thread through the thread guide on head frame and around the pretension stud

follow the instructions as described above for the next steps of winding the bobbin

Bobbin Case

A

To Remove

raise the needle

turn power switch to «0» (off)

open the bobbin cover

grasp the latch of the bobbin case with right hand

remove case

To Insert

hold the bobbin case latch

• the opening on the case should be at the top

insert bobbin case so that it engages

close the bobbin cover

Bobbin Thread Cutter

insert the bobbin case

take the thread over cutter A and cut the thread

Caution!

Moving parts – To reduce risk of injury, switch to «0» (off) before servicing. Close bobbin cover.

Note:

For normal sewing, the bobbin thread does not have to be brought up as the loose end is just the right length to start sewing.

• to insert bobbin see page 14

•••••••••••••••••


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13

Inserting the Bobbin

Inserting the Bobbin

insert the bobbin so that the thread runs clockwise

Pulling the Thread

Into the Slot

pull the thread counter clockwise into the slot

Pulling the Thread

Under the Spring

pull the thread to the left under the spring until it lies in the

T-shaped slit at the end of the spring

Clockwise Turning of the Bobbin

• the bobbin must turn clockwise when the thread is pulled

Threading the Upper Thread

A

C

Attaching the Thread Spool

raise the needle and presser foot

turn the power switch to «0» (off)

attach the foam pad

place spool on pin (thread winds clockwise)

attach the appropriate spool disc - diameter of spool determines disc size. There must be no clearance between the disc and the spool

 take thread through rear guide A

then into slit of upper thread tension

Down

 pull thread down to the right of the take-up cover to B

Up

take thread up to the left of the cover to C in the direction of the arrow, placing it in the takeup lever

Down

 take thread down and through guides D and E

B

D

E

!


14


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Needle Threader

A

B

Thread in Hook

lower the presser foot

lay the thread behind hook B and hold lightly

Lever Down

press lever A down and simultaneously guide the thread around hook B to the right to the needle

Thread in Front of

Needle

put the thread from the front into the guide until it catches in the hook

Release the Lever and

Thread

let go of lever A and thread

pull the thread loop through the needle eye

Bringing up the Lower Thread

• if bobbin thread is cut on the cutter (page 13), there is no need to bring the thread to the top of the stitch plate

hold the upper thread

sew one stitch:

• normal sewing with presser foot down

• by tapping on foot control with your heel, with presser foot up

pull the upper thread to bring the lower thread up through the stitch plate hole

take both threads through the slit on the presser foot to the back

pull threads over the head frame cutter

Thread Cutter

Thread Cutter on Head Frame

pull both threads from front to back over the cutter

• the threads release as soon as the first stitch is sewn

Note:

The bobbin thread must be brought up through the stitch plate for certain types of work. The length of thread is sufficient for most normal work if the lower thread cutter has been used.

Changing the Needle

Removing the Needle

raise the needle



loosen the needle clamp screw

pull the needle down to remove

Inserting the Needle

loosen the needle clamp screw, if needed

flat side of needle to the back

insert the needle as far up as it will go

tighten the needle clamp screw

!



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15

Spool Pin (vertical)

A

B

A

Collapsible vertical spool pin

•

• found at the right of the horizontal spool holder essential sewing aid when using more than one thread, i.e. double needle, etc.

for sewing, turn the spool holder upwards until it is in the upright position

add the foam pad A for stability, this prevents from caught on the spool pin

Threading the Double Needle

1. Threading the First Thread

place thread spool on horizontal spool pin

thread by guiding the thread to the front in the slit and past the tension disc A on the right side

thread sewing computer as usual, but at the thread guide B guide the thread through on the right side and thread the right needle

2. Threading the Second Thread

place thread spool on the additional spool pin

thread by guiding the thread to the front in the slit and past the tension disc A on the left side

guide thread on the left side of the thread guide

B and thread the left needle

• threads must not be twisted together

Note:

When using the supplementary spool pin

(vertical) always attach the foam pad (prevents the thread from getting caught on the spool pin)

A

Threading the Triple Needle

• two thread spools and one full bobbin are needed

place one thread spool on horizontal spool pin

place second thread spool and the lower thread spool, on additional spool pin (both spools have to turn in the same direction)

thread as usual by guiding two threads on the left side of the tension disc A and the thread guide B and one thread on the right side of disc

16


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Stitch Plate

5 /

8

1 / 4 1 1 /

4

5 /

8

1

1 5 /

8

1 /

4 1 /

4

5 /

8

1

1 5 / 8

1 /

4 1 / 4 5 / 8

1

A

9 mm (inch measurements) 5.5mm Stitch Plate

(special accessory)

A

Stitch Plate Markings

•

• the stitch plates are marked with vertical lines in millimeters or inches mm measurements are at the

•

• front inch measurements are at the back the measurements correspond to the distance from the needle to the line

•

•

•

• needle insertion point is position 0 (center needle position) the mm/inch measurements are marked to the right and left the lines help to guide the fabric for sewing seams and for topstitching the horizontal markings are helpful for sewing corners and buttonholes, etc.

A

Straight Stitch Plate

(special accessory)

Removing the Stitch Plate

•

•

• turn power switch off («0») raise the presser foot and needle lower feed dog

•

• press the stitch plate down at the back right corner until it flips up remove the stitch plate

Replacing the Stitch Plate

• place the stitch plate over the opening A and press down until it clicks into place

Note:

As in all household appliances because of the motors and electronics, your artista 730 will get warm when in use. This is a normal occurence.

Important Facts About Thread and Needles

With the right combination of thread and needle optimum sewing results are achieved.

Needle, Thread and Fabric

Care has to be taken when combining needle and thread.

Thread

The thread is chosen according to use. For a perfect sewing result, thread and material quality play an important role.

The correct needle size does not only depend on the chosen thread, but also has to be wellsuited to the fabric used. The fabric weight determines the thread weight and needle size and point form.

Cotton Thread

•

• cotton thread has the advantage of a natural fiber and therefore is especially suitable for sewing cotton fabrics if cotton thread is mercerized it will have a slight sheen

The following are the guidelines: Needle No.

• fine fabrics: fine thread (darning thread, embroidery thread) 70–75

Polyester Thread

• polyester thread is suitable for practically all

•

• sewing needs it has a high tensile strength and is particularly colorfast polyester thread is more flexible and is recommended where a strong and elastic seam is required

• mediumweight fabrics: normal thread

• heavyweight fabrics: stronger thread

80–90

100, 110, 120


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17

Needle/Thread Combination

In order to check the needle/thread compatibility, the correct size thread must correspond with the correct size needle.

Correct Needle/Thread

Combination

When sewing, the thread should travel smoothly down the long groove on the front of the needle. The thread can be secured optimally.

Too Thin Thread or Too Thick

Needle

The thread does not travel smoothly in the groove. Faulty stitches and damage of the thread can occur.

Too Thick Thread or Too Fine

Needle

The thread rubs on the edges of the groove and can get jammed.

This can break the thread.

Needle Summary

BERNINA uses needle system

130/705 H. This system number refers to shank shape as well as to length and form of the needle point.

130/705 H S 70

Shank diameter

= 0.7 mm (needle size)

Needle point e.g. medium ball point

Needle scarf

Flat shank

Shank length

Checking the Needle Condition

The needle condition should be checked and the needle replaced regularly. A defective needle not only damages the sewing but also the sewing computer.

The following are the guidelines: replace needle when starting a new sewing project or as required.

• more about this subject see «Trouble Shooting» on page 186

••••••••••••

18


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Many materials are easier to sew if the appropriate needle is used.

Type of needle Model

Universal

130/705 H

Normal point, slightly rounded

Jersey/Stretch

130/705 H-S

130/705 H-SES

130/705 H-SUK

Leather

130/705 H-LL

130/705 H-LR

Jeans

130/705 H-J

Ball point

Cutting point

Very fine point

Microtex

130/705 H-M

Especially fine point

Quilting

130/705 H-Q

Fine point

Embroidery

130/705 H-E

Large eye, slight ball point

Metafil

130/705 H-MET

Large eye

Cordonnet

130/705 H-N

Small ball point, long eye

Wing needle

130/705 HO

Wide needle (wing)

Double wing needle

130/705 H-ZWI-HO

Double needle

130/705 H-ZWI

Needle distance: 1.0 / 1.6 / 2.0 /

2.5 / 3.0 / 4.0 / 6.0 / 8.0

Triple needle

130/705 H-DRI

Needle distance 3.0

Suitable for

For nearly all natural and synthetic fabrics (woven and knitted)

Jersey, stretch fabrics

Heavyweight fabrics such as denim, canvas, overalls

Micro fiber fabrics and silk

Straight and topstitching

Embroidery on all natural and synthetic fabrics

Sewing with metallic threads

Topstitching with thick thread

Hemstitching

Special effects with hemstitch embroidery

Visible hems in stretch fabrics, pintucks, decorative sewing

Decorative sewing

Needle size

60–100

70–90

Natural and synthetic leather and plastic

90–100

80–110

60–90

75–90

75–90

75-90

80–100

100–120

100

70–100

80

Special needles are available at your BERNINA dealer.


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19

Presser Feet

Note: The letter «C» after a foot number indicates the foot is coded or equipped with a sensor for

9mm stitching. When a stitch is selected with a coded foot attached to the sewing computer, the preprogrammed width is 9mm, rather than 5.5mm.

1C

Reverse pattern foot

Practical and decorative stitches

2A

Overlock foot

Overlock seams, oversewing seam edges

3C

Buttonhole foot with code

Buttonholes

(shows as foot

No. 3C on-screen)

3A

Automatic buttonhole foot

Buttonholes in flat materials

Darning program (shows as foot No. 3A on-screen)

4

Zipper foot

Sewing in zippers

5

Blind stitch foot

Blind hems

Edge stitching

8

Jeans foot

Straight stitching in thick, firm fabrics

18

Button sew-on foot

Sewing on buttons, hooks and eyes

20C

Open embroidery foot

Embroidery, appliqué, satin stitch seams, monograms

40C

Sideways motion foot

For all sideways motion stitches

BERNINA Specialty Presser Feet

The standard selection of presser feet covers most normal sewing requirements, but we recommend the use of BERNINA specialty presser feet for specific sewing tasks such as quilting, heirloom sewing, home decorating, tailoring, etc.

They are available from your BERNINA dealer.

Samples of Specialty Presser Feet

50

Walking foot

For fabrics which stick or tend to slip and for quilting

9

Darning foot

Used with the feed dog in a lowered position for darning, monograms, and freehand embroidery

20


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Changing the Presser Foot

!


Changing the Presser

Foot

raise the needle and presser foot


Raising the Lever

raise the clamping lever

remove the presser foot

Attaching the Presser

Foot

guide the foot upwards over the cone

press the clamping lever down

Presser Foot Pressure

Dial on Head Frame

The presser foot pressure can be set on the left of the head frame.

Standard Pressure

• for all normal sewing

Reduced Pressure

•

• for jerseys and loose knits, quilting prevents fabric from stretching

adjust pressure so that the fabric still feeds correctly

Increased Pressure

• for firm fabrics; improves fabric feed

Feed Dog

Button on Handwheel Side of Sewing Computer

Button flush with base plate = feed dog up, sewing position

• for all machine-fed sewing

Button depressed = feed dog lowered, darning position

• for freehand sewing (darning, freehand embroidery, freehand quilting)

• for embroidery (with the embroidery module)


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21

Feed Dog and Fabric Feed

Feed Dog and Stitch Length

With each stitch the feed dog moves forward by one step. The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected. With an extremely short stitch length, the steps are also very short. The fabric moves under the foot quite slowly, even at full sewing speed. Buttonholes, satin stitch and decorative stitches are all sewn with a very short stitch lengh.

Important

• let the fabric feed evenly!

• pulling, pushing or holding back the fabric will result in uneven stitches

Height Compensating Tool

The feed dog can work normally when the foot is level.

If the foot is at an angle, e.g. when sewing over thick to thin or vice versa, the feed dog cannot grip and feed the fabric.

To solve this problem, place one, two or three compensating plates as required behind the needle under the presser foot.

To correct the height in front of the foot, place one or more plates to the right of the foot next to the needle. Sew until the foot is level again and remove the plates.

Feed Dog and Sewing Corners

The gap between the two rows of teeth is relatively large due to the width of the stitch plate hole.

When sewing corners, only a small section of the fabric is actually on the feed dog so that it cannot grip the fabric well.

Correct this by placing one or more compensating plates as close as possible to the edge of the fabric.

22


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Stitch Selection – Stitches – Functions

Stitch Selection

touch the stitch of your choice

• the stitch is highlighted in blue

• every stitch in the Stitch Altering Area (SAA) is displayed with its number

Altering the Stitch Width

turn the upper knob

The altered stitch width is shown in two different ways:

•

•

•

•

• stitch width bar 0-9 (0-5.5) is displayed as yellow area altered width is visible on stitch width bar (highlighted in blue), in addition the actual setting is shown (blue number) the basic setting is always visible when a change has been made, e.g. 3.5mm (black bar) stitch width can be altered from

0mm to 9mm when using coded feet stitch width can be altered from 0 to 5.5mm max. when using non-coded feet, the stitch width bar automatically shows 0-5.5mm

Screen Display

Altering the Stitch Length

turn the lower knob

The altered stitch length is shown in two different ways:

• stitch length bar 0-5 is displayed

•

•

• as yellow area altered length is visible on stitch length bar (highlighted in blue), in addition the actual setting is shown (blue number) the basic setting is always visible when a change has been made, e.g. 1.5mm (black bar) stitch length can be altered from

0mm to 5mm on most stitches

Display of Selected Stitch

• a graphic of the selected stitch is visible in the left portion of the

• screen changes to stitches can be seen on screen

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The Sewing Computer – Screen Display

23

Restoring the Basic Settings

touch the external button «clr» (clear)

• the basic setting of the selected stitch will be restored

 clear by pressing small number on stitch width and stitch length bar Altering the Needle Position

press the right or left Needle Position button

• each press moves the needle one position to the right or left

keep button pressed to quickly change needle

•

• positions the middle position of the bar is marked in black the basic setting (bordered in gray) is always visible

Presser Foot Indicator

•

• the recommended presser foot for the selected stitch is displayed by number by touching the Presser Foot symbol,

• further possible presser feet for the selected stitch will be displayed if the presser foot is raised it is indicated with an arrow

Selecting Functions

touch the function of your choice

• the selected function is highlighted in blue

(a number of different functions can be selected simultaneously)

• for more information on Functions see pages

29-33

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

Temporary Altered Stitch Memory

Stitch length, stitch width, needle position, etc. are automatically saved. When the sewing computer is turned off («0») or the «clr» (clear) button is pressed, the changes are deleted.

• for more information see page 39

•••••••••••••

Saving Altered Settings Permanently

The basic settings programmed by BERNINA can be changed and stored in the SAA. They will stay saved even after the sewing computer is turned off

(«0»). The basic settings are always visible.

Changing Settings (stitch width, stitch length, needle position, thread tension, etc.)

select stitch for which you want to alter width, length and/or needle position (e.g. zig-zag)

24


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Changing Basic Settings

alter the stitch width and length settings using the external knobs

alter the needle position with the external buttons

touch Stitch Altering Area (light blue)

• a special screen opens

touch «Save Settings» = all changes are saved

touch «Reset Settings» to return to basic settings

touch «ESC» and the screen closes without anything being saved or altered

• for more information on the lower two bars see Personal Program on page 156

•••••••••••••••••••••


Stitches can be selected using one of the two methods listed below.

Note:

If an unavailable number is entered, the following message will appear: This number is not available in the sewing computer.

Direct Selection by Scrolling up/down Within a Stitch

Category

touch the arrow (down)

• scroll the screen to view all stitches in selected category

•

• the top row disappears the next two rows move up

• a new row appears at the bottom

touch the arrow (up)

•

•

•

• the first row of stitches appears again the Scroll function (up/down) is used to find and view all the sewing computer’s stitches use when a visual search for a particular stitch is needed when the desired stitch is located, touch to select

Selecting a Stitch by Number

touch the function «0–9»

• the screen changes to a numeric pad

touch numbers to select the stitch of your choice

• the number of the selected stitch appears in the upper screen

Correcting Mistakes

to correct mistakes or deselect, touch function top right

(arrow)

• the number is deleted from right to left

touch the field above the numeric pad

• the entire number is deleted

enter new number

Confirm and Go to Next Screen

touch «OK» to confirm

• the screen displays the selected stitch

• the selected stitch is active (highlighted in blue)

Back to Previous Screen

touch «ESC»

• the previous screen appears

• if the selection was not confirmed by touching «OK», the stitch selected by number will be ignored

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25

Simple Menu Selection

Main Category Buttons

press a button to select the desired menu

• the selected category is directly accessed

• the stitch patterns or an overview appear

Practical Stitches

Practical Stitch Button

•

•

• the Practical Stitch menu appears

15 practical stitches appear on the screen use arrows to scroll for viewing additional stitches

Decorative Stitches 16/4 Directions

Decorative Stitch Button, 16/4 Directions

•

•

•

• the Decorative Stitch menu appears

6 categories appear on screen use arrows to scroll for viewing additional groups different stitch types and sizes can be selected

• sideways motion stitches are indicated with 4 arrows

touch to select the desired stitch group

• the selected stitch group appears

Alphabets

Alphabet Button

• the Alphabet menu appears on the screen

touch to select the alphabet of your choice

Buttonholes

Buttonhole Button

• the Buttonhole menu appears on the screen, including the eyelet and button sew-on programs

26


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Quilting

Personal Program

Quilt Stitch Button

• the Quilt Stitch screen appears

touch to select

•

•

15 quilt stitches are visible on screen use arrows to scroll for additional stitches

Personal Program Button

•

Personal screen appears (customized settings)

Embroidery Mode / Sewing Mode

Embroidery Mode / Sewing Mode Button

change between Embroidery and Sewing Mode and vice versa

Setup Program

Setup Program

•

•

• options appear use Setup to customize your sewing computer’s settings customized settings can be reprogrammed at any time or reset to BERNINA factory settings

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27

External Function Buttons

Altering Needle Position

press the left or right Needle Position button

• the needle moves to the right or left as selected

keep button pressed to quickly chan-

• ge needle positions total of 11 needle positions:

5 left, 5 right, and 1 center

Tutorial

press the Tutorial button

• brief operating instructions, advice on fabric, needle or techniques, etc.

appear

External Functions

Setup Button

press Setup

• options with alteration possibilities appear

touch one of the buttons

• the desired alterations can be

• made alterations remain even after the

• sewing computer is turned off

(«0») customized settings can be cancelled or reprogrammed at any time

Automatic Thread Cutter

press external button

• upper and bobbin thread are cut automatically

Creative Consultant

press the Creative Consultant button

• advice on fabric, needle or techniques, etc.

• for more information on Creative Consultant see pages 181-182

•••••••••••••••••••••••••

«clr» (Clear) Button

press the «clr» button

• stitch length, width and needle

• position are returned to basic settings the active functions are reset

Exception:

Safety functions (e.g. Security Program, needle stop position, motor speed, alphabet size)

Favorite Function Button

• this button can be individually

•

• programmed in Setup with functions displayed the programmed function is shown with an «F» in the display selected function can be cancelled and reprogrammed at any time with another function

• for more information on the Favorite Function

Button see page 170

••••••••••••••••••••••••••

28

The Sewing Computer – On-screen Functions

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Important:

Raise the needle before activating the Automatic Thread

Cutter function.

Quick Reverse Button on Head

Frame

press the Quick Reverse button

•

•

•

• on head frame secure the seam beginning and end: sews in reverse as long as button is depressed used to program buttonhole length used to program darning length used to designate end of

•

• stitching in straight stitch

Securing stitch No. 5 securing with Quilter’s Securing

Program No. 324 used to start/stop stitching with the embroidery module (special accessory)

Pattern End (on head frame)

press the Pattern End button

• sewing computer stops at the end of the active single pattern or the active pattern of a combination

General functions

artista 730 features the following functions – accessible through different screens and programs.

Single Mode

• the Single Mode is always active

(blue) when turning on the sewing computer and only the selected stitch can be sewn

Combi Mode

touch symbol

• the Combi Mode is active (blue) and stitch combinations can be programmed

Scroll Up

touch symbol one or more times

•

• stitches within a stitch category scroll up to show more options touch the symbol continuously to scroll quickly

Scroll Down


• stitches within a stitch category

• scroll down to show more options touch the symbol continuously to scroll quickly

On-screen Functions

«?» (Help)

touch Help

touch a stitch or a function

• a description of the selected stitch or function appears

close with «ESC»

Note:

If you press the question mark the machine is «locked». If you touch the screen (anywhere) the machine will sew again.

Closing Special Applications

touch «ESC»

• the special application closes

• returns to previous screen

OK

touch symbol

• adjustment/selection is activated or

• confirmed, e.g. stitch selection by number programmed adjustment/selection is ready to sew


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29

Special Functions

The following functions are found on the artista 730 sewing computer. Each function which can be used in the selected program is either shown in the yellow part of the screen or on the two bottom rows of the gray part of the screen.

Note:

The 0-9 function button (Stitch Selection by Number) as well as the History function button (the 15 last selected stitches) are always visible on the screen.

Presser Foot Indicator

• the recommended presser foot for the selected stitch is displayed by number

touch symbol

• a screen will appear with further

• presser foot options if the presser foot is raised it is indicated with an arrow

Pattern Begin

•

• the symbol is automatically highlighted in blue (= active), when a stitch is selected after beginning to sew the symbol is turned off (inactive, yellow)

touch symbol

• the needle moves to the beginning of a stitch or stitch program

Applications:

• decorative stitches, buttonholes, working in Combi Mode

Indication of the Altered Stitch Width or Stitch Length

• return to basic setting by touching the stitch width/stitch length bar

Long Stitch

touch symbol

• sewing computer sews every second stitch (max. stitch length 10mm)

•

•

• can be activated for all practical, decorative, and directional stitches except buttonholes and sideways motion stitches functions and stitches can be combined can be programmed in Combi Mode and saved in File Drawers

Applications:

•

• combine with straight stitch to baste combine with triple straight stitch for topstitching

Horizontal Mirror Image (left/right)

touch symbol

•

• sewing computer sews selected stitch in

Horizontal Mirror Image (left/right – determined by the sewing direction) can be programmed in Combi Mode and saved in File Drawers

Applications:

• blindstitch for shell edging

•

• decorative stitching stitch combinations

Pattern Extend 2–5 x

touch one or more times

•

• the numbers 2–5 appear depending on the type of stitch selected the length of selected stitch will be increased by 2–5 times

•

• stitch integrity is maintained lengthened stitches can be programmed in Combi Mode

touch the symbol longer and the function is turned off. The symbol is inactive

(yellow)

Applications:

•

• lengthen existing stitches without affecting the stitch density combine stitches

30


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Vertical Mirror Image (up/down)

touch symbol

• sewing computer sews selected stitch in

•

Vertical Mirror Image (up/down – determined by the sewing direction) can be programmed in Combi Mode and saved in File Drawers

Applications:

•

• decorative stitching stitch combinations

Stitch Counter

touch symbol

when the desired length is reached (e.g.

first buttonhole bead or straight stitch),

• press the external Quick Reverse button the display (or indicator) changes to

•

«auto» (for the buttonhole, only after length of second bead is determined by pressing the Quick Reverse button) the selected stitch is programmed

(temporarily)

Save

touch symbol

• saves stitch combinations and letters

Delete

touch symbol

• deletes individual stitches or letters above the cursor

•

• deletes stitch combinations deletes “Drawers” content

Multifunction Button

(only available in Combi Mode)

touch symbol

• a special screen with further functions opens:

•

Delete Combination in SAA

•

•

•

Save Combination

Mirror Combination

Preview

Direct Entry Length (in mm) or

On-screen Button Measurement

touch symbol

• buttonhole length (number in mm) can be entered directly by the stitch width knob

for measuring the button, hold button to

• bottom lower left corner of screen and enter button length = adjust blue circle to button size using stitch width knob

2mm for the button thickness will be added automatically (with button measurement only)

Combination Sub-divider (1)

touch symbol

• each combination can be sub-divided

• into several parts each combination part is totally independent of one another

Programming Buttonhole Length

• symbol is automatically highlighted in blue (= active) when a buttonhole is selected

•

•

• using the Quick Reverse button on head frame a buttonhole length can be determined directly when the buttonhole is programmed the symbol is turned off (inactive, yellow) if a new length is to be programmed the symbol has to be re-selected

Combination Sub-divider (2)

touch symbol

• each combination can be sub-divided as desired

• after stop press the foot control and the next part is sewn

Alphabet Size

• when an alphabet is selected the size is

9mm (field with 1 is blue)

touch symbol

• size will be reduced to 6mm (field with

2 is blue)

Monogram Size

• when a monogram is selected the size is

30mm (field with 1 is blue)

touch symbol once or twice

• the blue field shows the selected size:

1 = 30mm (standard)

2 = 20mm

3 = 15mm

Manual 4 or 6 Step Buttonholes

touch symbol

• a special screen appears

sew manual buttonhole in 4 or 6 steps

(according to buttonhole type)

Needle Stop Adjustment

touch the needle stop symbol

• arrow points down on screen (field is highlighted in blue)

• the sewing computer always stops with the needle down

touch symbol again = needle stop reverts to up

Upper Case / Lower Case

•

Upper Case is activated when Alphabet is selected

touch symbol

•

Lower Case is activated


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31

Securing Function (with 4 stitches)

touch symbol before starting to sew = individual stitches will be secured at the beginning

touch symbol during sewing individual stitches = individual stitches will be secured at the end, the sewing computer continues sewing

programming the function within a stitch combination = each individual stitch of the stitch combination can be secured at the beginning or at the end

Applications:

• sewing individual decorative stitches

•

• sewing individual letters sewing stitch combinations and words

Thread Tension

touch symbol

• the Thread Tension screen appears

• the Thread Tension can be altered

• the selected setting is visible in the field

Pattern Repeat 1–9 x

•

• by touching the symbol several times the numbers 1-9 appear

1 = sewing computer stops at the end of an individual stitch or stitch

• combination

2–9 = sewing computer stops at the end of a stitch or stitch combination after the number of repeats selected

touch the symbol longer and the function is turned off. The symbol is inactive

(gray)

Applications:

•

•

• sewing individual motifs combine with practical and decorative stitches in combination with 4-directional sewing

Balance

touch symbol

•

Balance screen appears

balance forwards and reverse stitches

balance sideways motion stitches

Applications:

• adapting practical and decorative

•

•

• stitches to various types of fabrics

(e.g. Honeycomb stitch) altering decorative stitches for a new look balancing buttonholes to different fabrics balancing sideways motion stitches to different fabrics

Motor Speed

1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 4/4

touch symbol one or more times to select the desired speed

•

• selected speed is displayed reduces or increases the speed with the foot control fully depressed

touch the symbol longer and the default speed (4/4) is set again

Applications:

•

• adjust speed for decorative sewing computer work such as freehand embroidery or freehand quilting and when more control is desired for the sewing task reduce speed when children are sewing

Security Program

touch symbol


•

•

• by selecting the respective needle symbol the stitch width will be limited automatically this prevents the inserted special needle

(double needle, etc.) from hitting the presser foot or the stitch plate = avoiding needle breakage the numbers represent the distance in

•

• mm between the needles of the double and triple needle by selecting the respective stitch plate icon the stitch width is limited automatically so that the inserted standard needle cannot hit the stitch plate once a feature is active the symbol turns

• red selected functions remain active even after sewing computer is turned off («0»)/on

touch «OK» to activate selected Security

Program function

•

Security Program functions must be removed within Security Program by selecting desired needle and stitch plate

Applications:

•

• to stitch pintucks and for hemstitching hemming knits

•

• decorative stitches sewing special fabrics

32


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Continuous Reverse Sewing

touch symbol

• sews the selected stitch in reverse

Applications:

• darning with straight or running stitch

•

• decorative stitching on sleeves or trouser legs quilting

History

touch symbol

•

•

• the last maximum 15 sewn stitches appear on a separate screen a stitch already contained in the History screen will be overwritten when sewing restarts same stitches with different settings have to be saved in the Personal

Program

select desired stitch = stitch appears in

Stitch Altering Area

• sewn stitches remain in History even after sewing computer is turned off («0»)/on myartista Portal

connect the Modem or the Ethernet

Card

touch symbol

Modem:

confirm first message with «Yes» and

• second message with «OK» the connection to the myartista Portal site is made

Ethernet Card:

• the sewing/embroidery computer tries to find an active Internet connection

• connection established, the myartista

Portal site appears automatically

Stitch Selection by Number

touch symbol

•

• special screen appears select individual stitch by touching the appropriate number combination

touch «OK» to confirm selection and bring stitch into SAA

Applications:

• easy selection of individual stitch

• easy selection for stitch combination in

Combi Mode

File Drawers

touch symbol

• the Drawers screen appears

Lowered Feed Dog

• if the feed dog is lowered this symbol appears underneath the Presser Foot

Indicator


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33

Thread Tension

Basic tension settings apply automatically when a stitch or program is selected.

The tension is factory set for best possible sewing results using a 100 weight, 2 ply polyester thread

(100/2).

The tension may vary when using other types of thread such as embroidery thread, and it may be necessary to adjust tension to suit the fabric and stitch type.

Thread Tension

touch symbol

Altering the Tension

•

• the perfect stitch formation is shown on the left side of the screen

(stitch formation in the fabric) the basic value is indicated by the bar on the scale (in blue)

turn stitch width or stitch length knob to the left or right = the thread tension is loosened or tightened

•

• the tension alteration is indicated on the left side of the tension scale tighter upper thread tension (= the upper thread is tightened which pulls

•

•

•

• the lower thread more to the right side of the fabric) loosen upper thread tension (= the upper thread is loosened which pulls the upper thread more to the wrong side of the fabric) the tension alteration affects only the selected stitch and will be deleted with «clr» and does not remain saved when turning the sewing computer off («0») the alteration is indicated on the scale and on the function button on screen the basic value stays visible (in black) when a change is made

Save and Close

touch «OK»

• the alteration is saved, the screen display changes

Back to Basic Settings

touch «Reset» to return tensions to the basic setting

touch «OK» to confirm

No Adjustments

touch «ESC»

• the existing thread tension is not changed

34


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Summary Practical Stitches

36

In General

38

Temporary Altered Stitch

Memory

39

Long Stitch Function

40

Straight Stitches

• Straight stitch No. 1 • Securing stitch No.5

• Edgestitching • Zippers • Triple straight stitch

• Basting stitch

41

Zig-zag Stitch

• Zig-zag No. 2 • Zig-zag seam • Triple Zig-zag

50

Blind Hem

52

Sewing Knit Fabrics

• Notes and tips for sewing knit fabrics

• Honeycomb stitch No. 8 • Vari-overlock No. 3

• Double overlock No. 10

• Super stretch No. 11 • Stretch overlock No.13

• Visible hem stitch with Jersey stitch No. 14

• Ribbing with Vari-overlock No. 3

• Hem with double needle • Ribbing

53

Reinforcing Edges

62

Sewing on Elastic, Shirring

Elastic/Cord

63

Darning, Repairing

• Automatic darning • Manual darning

• Patching knits and jersey

67

Freehand Embroidery

70

Bartack Programs

• Bartack • Fly stitch

71

Practical Stitches

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Summary Stitches

Summary

Application of Practical Stitches

Straight stitch

All non-stretch fabrics. All straight stitch work

Zig-zag

Most fabric types. All simple zig-zag applications such as oversewing fine fabrics, attaching elastic, lace and appliqué

Vari-overlock

Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch overlock seams, hems and stretch seams

Running stitch

Most types of fabric. Mending, patching, reinforcing seams

Securing stitch (straight stitch)

All types of fabric. Secures the beginning and end of seams sewn with straight stitch

36

Practical Stitches – Summary

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Triple straight stitch

Reinforced seams in firm, heavy fabrics, topstitching and visible seams

Triple zig-zag

Reinforced seams in firm fabrics, visible hems and seams, decorative stitching, couching

Honeycomb stitch

Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics, visible seams, hems, linens and some types of mending

Blindstitch

Most types of fabric. Blind hems, shell edging on soft jerseys and fine fabrics, decorative seams

Double overlock

All types of knit. Sews and finishes the edges in one operation

Super stretch

Open seam in all super-stretch fabrics, such as Lycra

Gathering stitch

Most types of fabric. Gathering with shirring elastic. Butted seams (edge to edge) and decorative stitching

Stretch overlock

Mediumweight knits, toweling and firm wovens. Overlock seams, flat joining seams

Jersey stitch

Natural, blended or synthetic fabrics and delicate knits. Visible seams and hems. Mending jersey/interlock

Universal stitch

Firm fabrics such as felt and leather. Flat joining seams, visible seams, attaching elastic, decorative seams

Sewn-out zig-zag

Oversewing woven fabrics, reinforcing edges, attaching elastic, decorative seaming

Lycra stitch

All two-way stretch fabrics, flat joining seams and hems, reinforced seaming on underwear

Stretch stitch

All stretch fabrics, open seam in sportswear

Reinforced overlock

Medium-to heavyweight knits and toweling, overlock seams, flat joining seams

Knit overlock

All knits, machine or handmade, overlock seam. Sews and finishes edges in one operation

Basting

Basting seams, hems, etc.

Simple darning program

Automatic darning in fine and mediumweight fabrics

Reinforced darning program

Automatic darning in heavyweight fabrics

Bartack program

Reinforcing pocket edges, belt loops, etc.

Bartack program

Reinforcing pocket edges, belt loops, securing zippers

Fly stitch large

Medium- to heavyweight fabrics, reinforcing pocket edges, zippers and openings

Fly stitch small

Fine to mediumweight fabrics, reinforcing pocket edges, zippers and openings

Blindstitch narrow

Blind hems on fine fabrics

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37

In General

Adjusting Individual Practical Stitches

Depending on the fabric and application an alteration of the basic settings may be necessary.

Altering Stitch Width and

Stitch Length

depending on the fabric it may be necessary that the stitch width or the stitch length is altered

can be altered while sewing

use stitch width or stitch length knob to make alteration

Changing the Needle Position

press Needle Position buttons to change the needle position, so stitching can be placed exactly where it is required

• there are a total of 11 needle positions (5 left, 5 right, and

1 center)

keep button pressed to change needle positions quickly

Securing With Quick Reverse

Button (on Head Frame)

• secures the seam beginning and end

press the Quick Reverse button and the sewing computer sews in reverse

release the Quick Reverse button and the sewing computer sews forward

Practical Stitch Seams

Open Seams

Seams with seam allowances pressed open

• seam allowances of up to

• approx. 1.5cm

seam lies flat

• seam does not stretch

Suggested stitches:

• straight, narrow zig-zag, super stretch, and triple zig-zag

Application:

•

• for woven fabrics works for most types of sewing projects, including clothing, home accessories, and crafts

Overlock Seams

Seams which cannot be pressed open

• sewn and finished in one

• operation narrow seam allowances

Suggested stitches:

• vari-overlock, double overlock and jersey

Application:

•

• for knits and jerseys excellent for knit clothing, lingerie, and bed linens, Jersey

Flat Joining Seams

Seams where the edges are overlapped and then sewn

• stitching is on the seam allowances

Suggested stitch:

• stretch-overlock

Application:

• particularly good for toweling and Lycra

• also good for beachwear, leisure wear, and lingerie

38


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Stitch: any selected stitch


• stitch length, stitch width, needle position, etc.

•

• are automatically saved by altering the stitch width and stitch length, all stitches can suit both the fabric and sewing the Temporary Alterered Stitch Memory is particularly useful when alternating between two applications, such as overcasting edges, zig-zag, vari-overlock, within the same project

• the stitches can be changed as needed

• when changing back to the altered stitch, the previous individually altered setting will stay saved

Note:

The altered stitch memory can hold as many stitch alterations as needed (these are stitch length, stitch width, Needle Position, Mirror

Images, Pattern Extend, Long Stitch function,

Thread Tension, Balance and Pattern Repeat function 1-9x).

Example:

select Zig-zag stitch No. 2 and alter stitch width to 9mm (e.g. overcasting an edge)

select straight stitch and sew seam

overcasting another edge: select the

•

Zig-zag stitch No. 2 again the altered setting of the stitch width to

9mm stays saved

Return to Basic Settings – Delete Altered Stitch

Memory

•

•

Method 1: press the external «clr» button (active stitch in basic setting)

Method 2: revert to the stitch width and length by touching the stitch width/stitch length bar

•

(or manually by turning the external knob) revert to other functions manually

Method 3: turn sewing computer off («0») – altered settings will not be saved

TIP

Save the stitch with altered basic settings in the Personal Program or to save the settings permanently.

• for more information on «Personal Program» see pages 153-156

••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

• for more information to save the settings permanently see page 24

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••


39

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Long Stitch Function

Long Stitch Function

• the sewing computer sews every second stitch

(the longest stitch possible is 10mm when the

•

•

• stitch length is set at 5mm) works with the practical and decorative stitches for all work where a longer stitch is required additional alteration of stitches possible

Sewing With the Long Stitch Function

select desired practical or decorative stitch

select Long Stitch function. Altered stitch is then visible in the Stitch Altering Area

• for decorative topstitching the Long Stitch function can be combined with the triple straight stitch when sewing with a cordonnet thread use needle

No. 100-110 or cordonnet needle No. 90-100

TIP

The Long Stitch function in combination with the straight stitch can be used for basting.

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Straight Stitch

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Straight stitch No. 1 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Straight Stitch

• after turning the sewing computer on, the

Practical Stitch screen with the activated straight stitch appears

Applications

Application

• suitable presser foot to be selected according to

• the technique suitable for all fabrics

For example use a longer stitch length

(approximately 3 - 4mm) with denim, a shorter length (2 - 2.5mm) with batiste.

For example use a longer stitch length

(approximately 3 - 5mm) when sewing with cordonnet thread for topstitching.

TIP

Prevents the fabric from slipping when you stop to adjust stitch.

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Practical Stitches – Applications

41

Securing Stitch

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Securing stitch No. 5 (straight stitch) size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


Securing Stitch

•

• for all fabrics secures beginning and the end of seam

• reverse stitching is exactly on top of the seam, preventing puckers

Beginning the Seam

•

• the sewing computer secures the seam automatically (5 stitches forward, 5 stitches reverse) the sewing computer continues straight stitching forwards

Ending the Seam

when coming to the end of the seam, press and

• release the Quick Reverse button on head frame. The sewing computer will then secure the seam automatically (5 stitches forward, 5 stitches reverse) sewing computer stops automatically when securing is completed

TIP

Quicker securing at beginning and end of seam.

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Edgestitching

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Straight stitch No. 1 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton, polyester, cordonnet (topstitching) up (sewing position)

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C,

Blindstitch foot No. 5 or

Edgestitch foot No. 10 (optional accessory)

Narrow Edgestitching

Needle Position

•

• left for outer edge right for inner edge (hem edges)

Presser Foot

•

Blindstitch foot No. 5

Outer Edges

place finished or folded edge of fabric against the left side of the guide on the foot

select needle position left at desired distance from the edge

5

Hem Edges

place edge of fold (inside upper edge of hem) against the right side of the guide on the foot

set to right needle position to stitch along upper edge

Note:

Foot No. 5: use any left or far right needle position.

Foot No. 10: use any left or right needle position.

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43

Wide Edgestitching

Needle Position

•

• any needle position can be used according to the width of the stitching different needle positions will place the stitching at various distances from the edge of the fabric

Presser Foot

•

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

Guiding the Fabric

Presser foot as a guide:

align the edge of the presser foot with the finished or folded edge of the fabric

Stitch plate as a guide:

guide the folded edge along the marks on the stitch plate for stitching 3/8” to 1 1/8”

(1cm–2.5cm) from the edge

Seam guide as a guide:

insert the seam guide into the hole on the back of the presser foot shank

adjust as desired, measuring from the needle

tighten the screw

guide the finished or folded edge of the fabric along the seam guide

to sew parallel wider lines, guide the seam guide along a previously sewn line of stitches

Seam guide for slide-on table:

insert into the groove (underside of table)

position right of the presser foot in the desired distance

guide fabric along the seam guide

TIP

Eliminates tedious marking when sewing parallel lines or grids.

44


TIP used for edgestitching when the guide on the foot is adjusted as desired.

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Zippers

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Needle position:

Straight stitch No. 1 size and type suitable for the type of fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)

Zipper foot No. 4 or Zipper foot with guide No. 14 (optional accessory) far right or far left

Preparation

baste seam closed and finish the seam allowance

baste or pin zipper in place so that fabric edges meet over the center of the zipper

Sewing

open zipper a little

start sewing from top left

position the foot so the needle stitches along the edge of the zipper coils

stop in front of the pull (needle position down), raise the presser foot and close zipper again

continue to sew to the base of the zipper

(needle position down)

turn sewing and sew across the seam (needle position down)

turn sewing again and sew second side of the zipper from bottom to top

Variation: Sew Both Sides of Zipper from

Bottom to Top

• suitable for all fabrics with nap or grain

(e.g. velvet)

prepare zipper as described above

start sewing in the seam of the zipper end and sew first side from bottom to top

sew the second side the same way from bottom to top

TIPS

Sew a visible zipper into the fabric as a decorative element.

To sew around the zipper pull

close the zipper and sew up to about 2” (5cm) away from the pull

stop with the needle down in the fabric, raise the presser foot. Open zipper, pulling the tab below the needle; lower presser foot and continue to sew

Hold threads firmly when starting to sew and pull the fabric gently behind the needle for a few stitches.

Zipper tape or firm fabric

For even stitch formation use a 90 – 100 needle.


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Invisible Zipper

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Zipper length:

Straight stitch No. 1 middle cotton or polyester up (sewing position)

Invisible zipper foot No. 35 (optional accessory) and Open embroidery foot No. 20C opening plus 1 1/2” (4cm) allowance

Invisible Zipper

•

• special zippers are used. When inserted they are covered by the seam, making them invisible is particularly elegant when used on clothing

Sewing First Half of the Zipper

mark the seam beginning (zipper end)

open zipper fully

place right side of zipper on right side of fabric

(the coils point away from the fabric edge)

pin one half of the zipper and baste

lower presser foot at the beginning of the zipper so that the zipper coils are positioned in the groove (it may be helpful to tilt the zipper coils slightly by hand)

sew first half of the zipper from top to bottom up to the mark

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Sewing Second Half of the Zipper

close zipper and pin the second half on top of the inside

open zipper again, pin the entire length and baste

sew from top to bottom – the zipper coils are now positioned in the other groove

close zipper

Closing Seam

attach Open embroidery foot No. 20C (improves overview)

pin and baste seam

sew seam from top to inserted zipper, staying as close as possible to the zipper

if a small opening results, use Zipper foot No. 4 to close it (altered needle position)

TIP

Trim a zipper that is too long and secure end with

Bartack program No. 25.


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Triple Straight Stitch Seam

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Triple straight stitch No. 6

Jeans or 80-90 universal cotton or polyester up (sewing position)

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or

Jeans foot No. 8

Open Seam

• durable seam for firm and densely woven

• fabrics such as denim and corduroy reinforced seam for garment areas subject to hard wear

TIP

A Jeans needle or Jeans foot No. 8 will help when sewing very heavy fabrics, such as denim or canvas.

Lengthen out stitch and use as a decorative top stitch with denim.

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Basting Stitch

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Stitch length:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Basting stitch No. 21 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester

3.5 - 5mm up (sewing position)


Basting Stitch

• straight stitch, sewing every fourth stitch

•

•

•

(i.e. longest stitch possible is 20mm when the stitch length is set at 5mm) for all work where a very long stitch is required quick and easy basting of seams, hems, quilts, etc.

easy to remove

TIP

To secure basting stitches at the seam beginning and end, sew a few normal length straight stitches or select the Securing function.

TIP the seam has been sewn.

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Zig-zag Stitch

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Zig-zag stitch No. 2 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


Zig-zag Stitch

• suitable for all fabrics

•

•

• overcasting elastic seams decorative sewing

Oversewing Edges

guide edge of fabric into the center of the presser foot

do not select too wide a width or

• too long a stitch – the edge should lie flat and not roll needle goes into fabric on one side and over the edge into the air on the other side

use a fine darning thread for lightweight fabric

A B C

A

Zig-zag stitch with altered stitch length

B

Zig-zag stitch with altered stitch width

C

Finishing the edges with zig-zag stitch

Satin Stitch

• filled-in stitch used for appliqué, embroidery, etc.

• shorten stitch length, satin stitch setting will be indicated by parallel lines on stitch length bar

Note:

The sewing computer has a programmed satin stitch: No. 354 (see page 143).

TIP

If edges roll, use the Vari-overlock stitch and foot No. 2A.

TIP

Experiment with adjusting the stitch width for new decorative effects.

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Visible Hem With Triple Zig-zag Stitch

Stitch:

Stitch width:

Stitch length:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Triple Zig-zag stitch No. 7

2.5 – 9mm depending on fabric basic setting universal or Jeans cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


Strong Visible Seam

• for firm, densely woven fabrics, particularly good for denim and canvas

Finish the raw edge of the hem; do not trim them after sewing.

TIP

Use a Jeans needle for better penetration.

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Blind Hem

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Blindstitch wide No. 9,

Blindstitch narrow No. 29 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton, polyester, silk or monofilament up (sewing position)

Blindstitch foot No. 5

Blind Hem Wide No. 9

• for invisible hems in medium to heavy fabrics

Blind Hem Narrow No. 29

• for invisible hems in batiste

Preparation

finish the raw edges as desired

fold the hem and baste or pin in place

fold the garment back over the right side of the fabric to expose the finished lower edge (see drawing below)

place the work under the presser foot with the guide positioned against the folded back fabric

Sewing

• the needle should just pierce the edge of the fold

after sewing about 4” (10cm), check both sides of fabric and adjust the stitch width if necessary

Blind hem wide

Blind hem narrow

Wrong side of the fabric

Right side of the fabric

Note:

Small stitches are visible on the right side (decorative effect).

Wrong side of the fabric

TIP

sew a test on the fabric. Adjust the stitch width to suit the fabric so that the needle just pierces the edge of the fold

guide the raw edge along the guide on the foot to keep the stitch depth even

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Sewing Knit Fabrics

Important Notes:

Start With a New Needle

• blunt needles can damage knits

Use a Stretch Needle (130/705 H-S) if Necessary

• the needle point slides easily between the fibers

Use a Fine Sewing Thread

• coarse threads can damage knits and cause holes when the garment is washed

When Basting, Use a Darning Thread

• very lightweight (80 weight) darning thread is easier to remove once the seam is complete

Sew a Test if Necessary

• the elasticity of today’s knit fabrics varies greatly

adjust basic settings to suit the fabric, the seam should be as elastic as the fabric

for greater elasticity use a shorter stitch length and/or stitch width (only one of these adjustments may be necessary)

Presser Foot Pressure

• soft, loose knits can wave when sewn:

reduce the pressure until the seam lies flat

• the sewing computer must still feed the fabric properly

Possible Problems With Sewing Knits

Seam Becomes Wavy

oversew a thread along the edge

after sewing adjust edges by pulling the thread to regain the original length of the fabric and press seam flat

Edges Roll

do not sew right on the edge but about 5mm in from the edge

cut off allowance after finished sewing

Seams Which Pull or Stretch

reinforce seams with a ribbon (e.g. shoulder ribbon) before sewing

different ribbons are available which can stretch more or less. These can be sewn to give more security to the seam

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Honeycomb Stitch Edges

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Honeycomb stitch No. 8 universal, ballpoint, or stretch cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


Honeycomb Stitch Edges

• for all cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber knits

Preparation

turn the raw edge under by 3/8”

(1cm); press and baste if required

Sewing

sew from the right side a presser foot away from the edge

trim excess fabric from the wrong side

Balance/Corrections

The Honeycomb stitch opens up and it does not look correct:

turn the stitch length knob until the stitch in the right portion of the screen is identical with the stitch on the fabric

• for more information on the

Balance function see page 183

••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

TIP

Needle stays in fabric when pivoting around curves (neck edges and armholes).

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Overlock Seams

Vari-overlock Seam

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Vari-overlock No. 3 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)

Overlock foot No. 2A

Closed Seam

• elastic seam in fine, soft knits such as silk jersey and interlock

Sewing

guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot

the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric

Double Overlock Seam/Jersey Overlock Seam

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Double Overlock No. 10 or Jersey Overlock No. 20 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


2

Closed Seam

• overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits and jerseys

Sewing

guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot

the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabrics

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55

Stretch Overlock Seam/Reinforced Overlock Seam

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Stretch overlock No. 13 or Reinforced overlock No. 19 universal, ballpoint or stretch cotton or polyester up (sewing position)



Closed Seam

• overlock seam in coarse or loose knits

Sewing

sew stretch overlock along the fabric edge

the stitch should sew over the edge of the fabric on the right swing of the needle

Super Stretch/Stretch Seam

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Super stretch No. 11 or Stretch No. 18 universal, ballpoint or stretch cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


Open Seam

•

•

• very elastic seam for knit fabrics ideal for sports and leisure wear seam lies flat and is not bulky

TIP rial (e.g. when edges tend to roll in). Instead sew approx. 1cm (1/2") from the edge.

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Flat Joining Seam

Stitch:

Needle:

Thraed:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Stretch overlock No. 13 universal, ballpoint or stretch cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


Flat Joining Seam

fabric edges are overlapped and the stitch is placed on the seam allowance which produces

• a very flat, durable seam ideal for fluffy, thick materials such as terry cloth, felt and leather

Sewing

sew stretch overlock along the fabric edge

• the stitch should sew over the edge of the top layer of fabric on the right swing of the needle

TIP

When using a matching thread color, this seam is hardly visible in fluffy fabrics.

Particularly suitable for fabrics in which a normal straight stitch seam would stretch open.

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57

Hems With Practical Stitches

Visible Hem With Jersey Stitch

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Jersey stitch No. 14 universal, ballpoint or stretch cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


Visible Stretch Hem

• for all types of cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber jerseys

Preparation

fold and press hem; baste if required

Sewing

sew hem at desired depth (right side)

trim excess fabric (wrong side)

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Ribbing With Overlock Seams

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Vari-overlock No. 3 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


Ribbing With Overlock Seam

• for all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed fiber knits

Preparation

cut ribbing twice the finished width plus double the seam allowance

fold ribbing in half

pin and baste to opening, front edge to outside

Sewing

sew vari-overlock over the raw edge

guide the raw edge along the pin of the foot

the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric

Right side

Wrong side

TIP

Cut ribbing slightly shorter than the opening and pull slightly when pinning.

Needle stays in fabric when pivoting around curves (neck edges and armholes).

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59

Hems With Double Needle

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Straight stitch No. 1 double needle cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


Hem Finish in Knits

•

• elastic hems in knits no additional overcasting necessary

Preparation

turn the raw edge under the width desired; press and baste, if required

insert double needle into the sewing computer and thread; threading see page 16

recall Security Program, select suitable double needle and stitch plate (appropriate double needle limitation – e.g. for a double needle of

4mm select double needle button 4.0)

Sewing

sew on the right side along the seam edge (on the right side two parallel stitch lines are visible, on the wrong side a zig-zag stitch is visible)

trim excessive fabric back to about 2mm from the stitches

TIP

Use guide line on stitch plate or seam guide.

TIP

Increase stitch length according to fabric.

TIP

Use wooly nylon as bobbin thread which results in a more elastic seam.

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Ribbing Finish

Ribbing

•

• decorative and very practical way of finishing the edges suitable for sweatshirts, pajamas – either way, etc.

Cutting

width: twice the finished width plus double the seam allowance

length: desired length plus double the seam allowance

check length by putting the ribbing folded in half around neck, waist, wrist, or ankle (check whether ribbing around the neck is wide enough to be pulled over the head)

Preparation / Sewing

make a circle out of the ribbing and sew according to seam allowance (chose suitable overlock stitch according to fabric)

fold the ribbing in half, the seam to inside (baste edges)

divide ribbing in four equal sections and mark quarters (mark No. 1 is the seam)

divide edge of the garment also in four equal sections and mark quarters

pin right side of ribbing to right side of garment, the four marks matching. The ribbing seam should be placed to the back or on shoulder seam

sew with a machine overlock stitch (according to fabric)

TIP

The job is made easier as there is no cutting.

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61

Reinforced Edges on Woven Fabrics

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Honeycomb stitch No. 8 or Running stitch No. 4 size and type suitable for the fabric selected lightweight darning thread up (sewing position)


Reinforced Edges

• good for work clothes, table linen, towels, etc.

• use a cord to match the color of the fabric.

This gives additional strength

Suitable Cords

•

•

•

•

Perle cotton fine crochet yarn strong hand-sewing thread gimp (not from home dec department)

Sewing

oversew edges with Honeycomb or Running stitch by oversewing a cord along the edge for added reinforcement

if necessary sew a second row further in from the edge

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Sewing on Elastic, Shirring Elastic/Cord

Gathering

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Gathering stitch No. 12 size and type to suit the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)

Buttonhole foot No. 3C

Shirring Elastic/Cord

• for gathering lengths of fabric, for finishing children’s and doll clothing, crafts, etc.

Preparation

cut shirring elastic or cord double the length of the edge and fold in half lengthways

hook over the center toe on the buttonhole foot

take both ends of the cord under the foot to the back

shirring elastic/cord lies in the openings of the buttonhole foot

Sewing

sew a few stitches

lift the elastic or cord at the front and pull towards you, leave ends behind the presser foot

oversew cord without stitching into it

stretch elastic while sewing; the more it is stretched, the tighter the gathers

after sewing, pull the cord to gather the fabric

TIP

Sew a few stitches with the feed dog lowered.

TIP

Increase the foot pressure for better feeding of the fabric and cord if necessary.

TIP

Use two separate gathering cords instead of one hooked over the center toe.

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63


Sewing on Narrow Elastic With Universal Stitch

Stitch:

Stitch width:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Universal stitch No. 15 depends on width of elastic type and size to suit the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


Embroidery foot No. 6 (optional accessory)

Sewing on Elastic

•

• for gathering long lengths of fabric for ruffles and flounces in fine fabrics, outer garments, sportswear, children’s and doll

• clothing, crafts, etc. works well for gathered sleeve edges and neck openings

Preparation

cut elastic to length required

Sewing

oversew the elastic, adjusting the stitch width to be slightly wider than the elastic

• needle must not pierce the elastic

after sewing, adjust the gathers evenly

TIP

Sew a few straight stitches backwards and forwards to secure the elastic.

• for children’s or doll clothing

sew sleeve edges with elastic before sewing seams

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Sewing on Wide Elastic

Stitch:

Stitch length:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Needle stop:

Running stitch No. 4 or

Sewn-out zig-zag No. 16 or

Lycra stitch No. 17 adjust to suit elastic size and type to suit the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C down

Wide Elastic

• for edges on sportswear and lingerie

Preparation

cut elastic to length desired

divide fabric edge and elastic into 4 equal sections and mark

pin elastic to raw edge, matching up marks

Sewing

stretch the elastic to fit the raw edge while sewing

trim excess fabric close to the stitching

TIP

first sew two parallel straight stitches about

5mm apart for about 2” (5cm)

knot the beginning of the threads

hold bobbin thread, gather fabric

to begin the elastic can be sewn on flat without being stretched

Avoid over-stretching the elastic; adjust the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric.

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65


Elastic Edges

Stitch:

Stitch width:

Stitch length:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Zig-zag stitch No. 2 approximately 5mm

1–1.5mm

size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


Elastic Edges

• use on knit garments to re-form out-of-shape edges

Sewing

guide double length of shirring elastic along the edge of the fabric, stretching the elastic slightly

oversew the elastic with a zig-zag stitch (do not sew through the elastic, only over it)

adjust elastic after sewing is complete to regain the correct shape and size

TIP

To prevent the fabric from stretching as it is sewn, reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric.

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Automatic Darning

Quick Darning of Holes or Worn Areas

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Simple darning program No. 22,

Reinforced darning program No. 23 size and type suitable for the fabric selected lightweight darning thread up (sewing position)

Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A,

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C (only for Darning program No. 22)

Simple Darning Program No. 22 replaces threads along the lengthwise grain in all fabrics

Preparation

use Reverse pattern foot No. 1C

select Stitch Counter icon on the toolbar on the lower part of the screen

place a piece of lightweight stabilizer under the worn area before darning if necessary

Sewing

sew the first row and stop

press and release the Quick Reverse button at the desired length; this programs the first length

continue sewing; the sewing computer stops automatically

Note:

The Simple darning program No. 22 can also be done with the

Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A (see following description).

Reinforced Darning Program No. 23 replaces threads along the lengthwise and crosswise grains in all fabrics

Preparation

use Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

place a piece of lightweight stabilizer under the worn area before darning if necessary

Sewing

insert the needle in the top left of the worn area

sew the first vertical row

press and release the Quick Reverse button at the desired length; this programs the first length

continue sewing; the sewing computer stops automatically when finished

TIP

Correct with the Balance function see page 183.

Reposition the work under the foot to continue covering the worn or damaged area. Begin sewing; the program will repeat as often as desired (the length is saved).


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67

Manual Darning

Stitch:

Neddle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Straight stitch No. 1 size and type suitable for the fabric selected lightweight darning thread down (darning position)

Darning foot No. 9 (optional accessory)

Manual Darning

•

• darning holes or worn areas replaces threads with the lengthwise and the crosswise grains in all fabrics

Preparation

stretch fabric into darning hoop (optional accessory) to prevent distortion

use of the slide-on table is recommended

Sewing

move the darning hoop smoothly by hand

work from left to right without using pressure

when changing direction on top and on bottom, move in curves (avoid points as this prevents holes and thread breakage)

work in different length so that the thread is

«lost» in the fabric

Note:

Place suitable material under a large area.

1. Stitch Over the Hole

sew the first rows to cover the hole (not too close, sewing beyond the worn area)

work the rows in irregular lengths

turn work by a quarter turn – 90°

2. Cover the First Rows

sew over the first rows – not too close for a soft finish

turn work by a half turn –180°

3. Complete Darning

loosely and in same direction as 2nd rows

1

• if the thread is lying on the right side of the fabric, the hoop is being moved too quickly if there are knots on the wrong side of the fabric, the hoop is being moved too slowly

TIP

If thread breakage is a problem, it could be that the hoop is not being moved smoothly.

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2

3

Patching Knits and Jersey

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Jersey stitch No. 14 size and type suitable for the fabric selected lightweight darning thread up (sewing position)


Covering Worn or Damaged Areas

• particularly suitable for knit fabrics, lingerie

Preparation

do not cut damaged area

round off the edges of the patch to retain flexibility

pin and baste to right side

Sewing

place patch over worn area

sew over edge

sew a second row inside the first if required

cut away damaged area

TIP

Use a new needle to prevent damage of the fabric loops.

TIP

place a stabilizer under the fabric

if necessary use a stretch needle (130/705 H-S); point slides easily between the fibers

to prevent the stretching of the seam while being sewn, reduce the presser foot pressure to suit the fabric

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Freehand Embroidery

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Straight stitch No. 1 or Zig-zag stitch No. 2 size and type suitable for the fabric selected embroidery thread, lightweight thread in bobbin down (darning position)

Darning foot No. 9 (optional accessory) or

Freehand embroidery foot No. 24 (optional accessory)

Freehand Embroidery

• freehand embroidery is used for creative

• designing. With the Straight stitch No. 1 or

Zig-zag stitch No. 2 the surface of the fabric can be covered with narrow or wide stitches use fine to mediumweight fabrics

Preparation

draw desired motif with a pencil or marker on the fabric

place stabilizer under fabric

stretch fabric and stabilizer into wooden embroidery hoop (optional accessory)

use slide-on table

Note:

If a thick decorative thread is used as bobbin thread, an extra bobbin case should be purchased.

Sewing

stitch length: set on 0 and reduce upper thread tension slightly

use Zig-zag stitch No. 2 to cover the surface of the fabric and set stitch width according to motif

use Straight stitch No. 1 for sewing straight lines

it is recommended to start with a circular motion, until some practice is gained

hold hoop with both hands and move smoothly.

To move up and down is easier than embroidering sideways; turn hoop to embroider sideways

embroider rows of stitches next to each other according to desired density

move with regular, consistent speed, if the thread lies loose on the right side of the fabric, the stitch area was moved too fast. If there are little knots on the wrong side, the stitch area was moved too slowly

Motifs can also be embroidered on water-soluble stabilizer.

Make sure that the stitches overlap so that the edge is firmly woven. Wash out the stabilizer afterwards, appliqué the motif onto a project.

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TIP

Use different threads and fabrics.

Bartack Program

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Bartack program No. 24 or No. 25 size and type to suit the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


Bartack Program

•

• for reinforcing zippers, pocket edges, sewing on belt loops use for attaching ribbons to a quilt for tying

Sewing

• the sewing computer starts top left with the bartack program and automatically stops at the end of the program

Increase the stitch length and sew the bartack program with decorative thread as a decorative element; or combine two together at right angles to each other as decoration.

TIP

A zipper that is too long can be trimmed and reinforced by using the Bartack program No. 25.

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Fly Stitches

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Fly stitch No. 26 and No. 27 size and type to suit the fabric selected cotton, decorative or polyester up (sewing position)


Sideways motion foot No. 40C

Fly Stitches

The fly stitch is used as reinforcement at the end of seams, e.g. pocket edges or slits

•

• stitch No. 26 is for mediumweight to thick fabric stitch No. 27 is for fine to mediumweight fabric

Sewing

place presser foot No. 1C in the middle of the seam at the end of the slit or the pocket edge

the fly stitch is automatically sewn from bottom to top (in reverse)

the sewing computer stops automatically at the end

TIP

To get a hand-stitched effect the fly stitch can be sewn with a heavier thread.

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Stitch Summary 74

Important Decorative Sewing

Information 75

Decorative Stitches 9mm 76

Decorative Stitches in

Combination With Functions 77

Combining Practical and

Decorative Stitches 79

Cross Stitches

Heirloom Techniques

81

82

Hemstitches 83

Pintucks 84

Scallops Off the Edge 87

Corded Scallops 88

Sideways Motion Stitches

• General facts • Using templates for manual combining • Automatic connecting with 16 Directional Sewing

89

16 Directional Sewing 94

Connecting Stitches 95


Decorative Stitches

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Decorative Stitches

9mm, 40mm, 16 Directional Sewing and 4 Directional Sewing

Decorative Stitches,

16 and 4 sewing directions

press Decorative Stitch button, 16/4 directions

Summary

Summary

•

The following list of categories appears:

Category 101... = «Nature» decorative stitches, 9mm

Category 201… = «Nature» decorative stitches, 40mm

Category 301… = Cross stitches, 9mm

Category 401… = Home dec stitches, 9mm

Category 501… = Satin and quilting stitches, 40mm

Category 601… = Machine embellishment

Category 701… = Heirloom stitches, 9mm

Category 801… = Heirloom stitches, 40mm

Category 901… = «Children» decorative stitches, 9mm

Category 1015… = «Children» decorative stitches, 40mm

Category 1101… = Zodiacs

Category 16 Directions Sewing

Category 4 Directions Sewing

• for a complete list of stitches, refer to page 268-271

•••••••••••••••••••

74

Decorative Stitches – Summary

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Important Decorative Sewing Information

Selecting Decorative Stitches

press Decorative Stitch button

• a complete overview appears on the screen:

•

•

101,…, 301,…, 401, …, 601, …, 701, …, 901, …

= decorative stitches 9mm (decorative stitches of up to 9mm stitch width)

201, …, 501, …, 801, … 1015, …, 1101, …

= sideways motion stitches (marked with 4 arrows); sideways motion stitches are large stitches or outline designs which are sewn with the fabric being fed sideways, as well as forward

• and backward

4 Directional Sewing, 16 Directional Sewing: automatic feed in 4 or 16 directions

touch the appropriate button to select and activate the desired category

select the desired stitch

Application of Various Decorative Stitches

Depending on the type of fabric, select simple or more complicated decorative stitches to enhance the fabric.

lightweight fabrics

• use simple decorative stitches for a particularly nice effect on lightweight fabric (e.g. Decorative stitch No. 101)

mediumweight fabrics

• simple and more complicated decorative stitches - programmed with triple straight stitch or with a few satin stitches - are particularly suitable for mediumweight fabrics (e.g. Decorative stitch No. 107)

heavyweight fabrics

• use more intricate decorative stitches - programmed with satin stitches - on heavyweight fabrics for outstanding decorative stitching (e.g. Decorative stitch No. 401)

Perfect Stitch Formation

use the same needle and bobbin thread color

use a stabilizer on the wrong side of the fabric for perfect stitch formation

use an additional, water soluble stabilizer on the right side of pile or longfiber fabrics (e.g. wool, velvet, etc.)

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Decorative Stitches – Summary

75


9mm

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Decorative stitches 9mm size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton, decorative up (sewing position)


Open embroidery foot No. 20C


• for any material

• to decorate and embellish

Applications


press Decorative Stitches button

select the desired stitch folder on screen

(group 100, 300, 400, 600, 700 and 900 are

9mm stitches)

select the desired stitch

1 2

Screen

•

• the stitch width and length is highlighted in blue default settings (stitch length and width) can be altered

Altering the Stitch Width (1)

• for decorative effects and stitch adjustments

(e.g. in bulky places)

wider = turn the external stitch width knob clockwise

narrower = turn the external stitch width knob

• counter clockwise default settings and the alterations made will be displayed on screen

reset default settings = touch the stitch width or length bar or turn the external knobs

Altering the Stitch Length (2)

• for decorative effects and stitch adjustments (e.g. in bulky places)

longer = turn the external stitch length knob clockwise

shorter = turn the external stitch

• length knob counter clockwise default settings and the alterations made will be displayed on screen

reset default settings = touch the stitch width or length bar or turn the external knobs

TIP

save the stitch with its altered settings in your

Personal Program

change the factory settings of the stitch permanently

• for more details on Personal Program see page

154

••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

• for more information see page 24-25

•••••••••••

76

Decorative Stitches – Applications

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Combining Decorative Stitches and Functions

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Decorative stitches 9mm size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton, decorative up (sewing position)



Create amazing effects by combining decorative stitches and functions.

Instructions

select desired stitch

select desired function

•

• the altered stitch is displayed on screen a single stitch can be combined with several functions

Deleting Functions

press the external «clr» button or delete special functions individually by touching the corresponding functions on the screen

Mirroring Decorative Stitches

touch the Horizontal Mirror Image (left/right) function

• the stitch is mirrored left/right

touch the Vertical Mirror Image (up/down) function

• the stitch is mirrored in the sewing direction, up/down

touch both Mirror functions simultaneously

• the stitch is mirrored vertically and horizontally

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Altering Decorative Stitches With

Long Stitch Function (1)

press the Long Stitch function

•

• the sewing computer will sew every alternate stitch the completely changed stitch will be displayed on the screen

Stretching Decorative Stitches With

Pattern Extend Function (2)

touch the Pattern Extend function

•

• once or more the selected stitch is extended (i.e.

stretched) two- to fivefold some stitches have limited extension capability, and thus cannot be stretched to 3 to 5 times their previous size

Sewing With a Double, Triple or

Wing Needle (3)

on inserting the specialty needle activate the Security Program

• for more details on Security

Program see page 32

••••••••

•

• when selecting the stitch, the stitch width is automatically limited according to the needle chosen the best effects are achieved with simple stitches

Balance (4)

• use the Balance function for various effects (stitch variations)

1

3

• for more details on the Balance function see page 183-184

••••••

TIP

touch the Pattern End button on head frame: the sewing computer will stop at the end of an individual stitch or the active stitch in a combination

touch the Pattern Repeat 1-9x function on the screen: the sewing computer will stop on completion of the number of single repeats entered

2

4

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Practical and Decorative Stitches in the Combi Mode

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Decorative and Practical stitches 9mm size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton, decorative up (sewing position)



select «Combi Mode»

• the Combi Mode opens, and is ready to create stitch combinations

Note:

Most of the practical and decorative stitches can be combined, except for the following special programs:

Securing program No. 324

Securing stitch No. 5

Basting No. 21

Darning No. 22 and No. 23

Bartacks No. 24 and No. 25

Fly stitches No. 26 and No. 27

Stitches in the buttonhole category Nos. 51 - 63

Combining Practical and Decorative Stitches


• stitch appears in the stitch display

select another stitch

continue in this way until the desired stitch combination is completed

• Preview of Combination see page 160

••••••••••••••••••••

Example of a Stitch Combination

Machine Embellishment stitches: touch stitch No. 655 once

open Practical Stitches window and touch Straight stitch

No. 1 once

open Decorative Stitches window and touch stitch No. 606 in

Machine Embellishment stitches once

open Practical Stitches window and touch Straight stitch

No. 1 once

the stitches alternate continuously as you sew

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79

Example of a Stitch and Function Combination

touch stitch No. 656 once

touch stitch No. 656 again and activate Vertical

•

•

Mirror Image function to mirror the stitch in the sewing direction the stitch is mirrored in the sewing direction the stitches alternate in their original and mirrored form as you sew

Stitch Combination as Single or Multiple Repeat

create stitch combination

touch «Pattern Repeat 1 - 9» one or more times (the corresponding number from 1 - 9 appears)

• sewing computer will stop automatically at the end of the programmed number of stitch combination repeats

Correcting a Combination

Inserting Stitches

• stitches are always inserted above the cursor

• to insert a stitch at the beginning of a stitch combination, move the cursor upwards, using the scroll arrow

activate desired place = select desired stitch in the Stitch

Altering Area or scroll to the stitch

select new stitch

• stitch is inserted above the cursor

•

«Saving Combinations» see page 158

••••••••••••••••••••••

Deleting Stitches

• stitches are always deleted above the cursor

activate desired place by selecting desired stitch in the Stitch

Altering Area or scroll to the stitch

touch «Delete»

• stitch is deleted

TIP combination left/right

touch Multifunction button

touch «Mirror Combination»

• the complete combination is mirrored left/right

TIP

(4 small securing stitches)

There are various options for automatically securing stitches:

1. touch «Securing» before beginning to sew: securing stitches are stitched at beginning of stitch combination

2. programming a function within a stitch combination: the desired stitches are secured accordingly

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Cross Stitches

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Cross stitches No. 301 - 314 size and type suitable for the fabric cotton, decorative up (sewing position)



•

• cross stitching is a traditional technique, and extends the range of decorative stitches if the cross stitches are sewn on fabric with a linen texture, they acquire a hand-stitched effect and look like hand-stitched cross stitching

Application

•

•

• for home furnishings for trimmings on garments for embellishing in general

Sewing

Cross stitches Nos. 301 - 314 can be stitched and combined like any other decorative stitches

Sewing Trims

select cross stitch

stitch a row, using the seam guide or slide-on

• table seam guide it is important to stitch the first row in a straight line, as it will serve as a reference for the rows that follow

select a new stitch

stitch a second row next to first at a distance of one presser foot's width, or using the seam guide

repeat for the following rows of stitching

TIP

Stitch appears fuller.

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81

Heirloom Techniques / Sewing Lace

Heirloom Sewing

•

•

• is one of the oldest and most traditional needlework techniques embellishments such as lace of a matching shade are sewn on white cotton or linen to be used in making home furnishings and garments heirloom embroidery includes - among others techniques like hemstitching, attaching and inserting lace, padded satin scallops

Attaching and Inserting Lace

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Zig-zag No. 2 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or decorative up (sewing position)

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or Edge stitch foot No.10C (special accessory)

Preparation

use the same color thread as the lace

• lace which has been spray-starched before stitching is easier to use

Attaching Lace to Fabric

place lace on right side of the fabric, edges overlapping at least 3/8” (1cm)

•

(= seam allowance) and pin lace header lies on the fabric

use Straight stitch No. 1 to attach lace

press seam allowance back to wrong side of fabric

from the right side, use a narrow zig-zag (stitch width approx. 11/2 - 21/2, length approx. 1/2) to sew on lace. Stitch along the edge of the lace so that the stitches enclose the edge

trim excess fabric on wrong side

Attaching Lace to Lace

place pieces of lace next to each other (edges touching exactly)

use a fine zig-zag stitch (stitch width approx. 11/2 - 2, length approx. 1/2) to sew the pieces of lace together. The needle swing should alternately catch the two lace edges. Use the

Edge stitch foot No. 10

Inserting Lace into Fabric

pin or baste lace onto fabric. Use

Straight stitch No. 1 to stitch along both edges

carefully slit open the fabric in the center between the seam lines

press the seam allowances back to the wrong side of the fabric

from the right side of the fabric, use a fine zig-zag (stitch width approx. 11/2- 2, length approx.

1/2) along both lace edges to enclose them

trim excess fabric on wrong side

Entredeux

Attaching Entredeux to Fabric

place Entredeux on fabric, right sides together, raw edges together

stitch Entredeux to fabric using straight stitch, Edge stitch foot

No. 10 (special accessory), guiding the guide in center of foot along seam allowance bead in Entredeux

trim seam allowance to 1/8”(3mm)

overcast raw edge of Entredeux/fabric seam with a narrow zig-zag stitch (stitch No. 2, stitch width

2mm, stitch length 1.5mm)

Attaching Entredeux to Lace, etc.

trim away seam allowance of Entredeux along one bead only

follow technique lace to lace as desrcibed above

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Heirloom Techniques / Hemstitching

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Hemstitch Nos. 701, 702, 709 - 711, 713, 720,

721, 723, 725, 726, 732, 742

Wing needle, Double wing needle cotton or decorative up (sewing position)


Open Embroidery foot No. 20C

Hemstitches

• use the wing needle to achieve excellent open effects easily

•

• loosely woven, light- to mediumweight woven fabrics in which the penetrating needle can easily push the threads apart are especially suitable for hemstitching for home furnishings and garments

Preparation

use fusible stabilizer on wrong side of fabric to reinforce it

• depending on fabric and required effect, use more than one layer of stabilizer

insert wing needle or double wing needle and activate appropriate needle limitation in Security Program

• for more details on Security Program see page 32

•••••••••••

1

1

2

Using the Wing Needle (1)

• the «normal» wing needle can be used for any hemstitching

select a hemstitch and sew

Using the Double Wing Needle (2)

• the wing-needle part of the special double needle creates a hole effect, while the universal-needle part creates a normal straight stitch effect

select desired stitch (e.g. Triple zig-zag No.7) and stitch first row

turn fabric and stitch second row. The needle should penetrate the holes of the first row

Pulling Threads Out (3)

for an even more pronounced hand-stitched effect, withdraw threads of the fabric before starting to hemstitch

you may wish to spray-starch the fabric and press carefully before beginning stitching

the hemstitches are sewn next to the «gaps» left by the withdrawn threads

• to fagot the threads, the needle must alternately penetrate the fabric and the gap or ditch created by withdrawing the threads

2

3


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Heirloom Techniques / Pintucks

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot

Straight stitch No. 1

Double needle 1-4mm, depending on the Pintuck presser foot used and the fabric cotton or decorative up (sewing position)

Pintuck feet No. 30 (3 grooves), No. 31 (5 grooves),

No. 32 (7 grooves), or No. 33 (9 grooves)

(all the feet are special accessories)

Stitching Pintucks

• this technique reduces the size of the fabric area

(allow for enough fabric)

•

• pintucks are narrow stitched folds which are normally sewn on the fabric before cutting out the pieces for garments or other sewing projects for embellishing, or in combination with other heirloom embroidery techniques

Pintuck Presser Feet

•

No. 30 (3 grooves) = 4mm double needle:

•

• for heavyweight fabrics

No. 31 (5 grooves) = 3mm double needle: for medium- to heavyweight fabrics

No. 32 (7 grooves) = 2mm double needle:

• for light- to mediumweight fabrics

No. 33 (9 grooves) = 1 or 1.6mm double needle: for very light fabrics (uncorded pintucks)

Corded Pintucks

•

•

•

• pintucks may be sewn with or without cord cord pintucks for a raised effect and texture choose a cord that fits well into the grooves of the selected pintuck foot the cord must be colorfast and shrinkproof

Note:

Sewing pintucks on fabric causes fabric width to reduce.

Allow extra fabric for this technique.

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Inserting the Cord (gimp cord)

remove stitch plate from sewing computer (see page 17)

open bobbin cover

thread cord from underneath plate through the bobbin area and the hole in stitch plate

replace stitch plate

close bobbin cover

• the cord should feed freely - guide it through the small opening in the bobbin cover

place the cord spool on the arm of the free hand system

(presser foot lifter)

check that the cord runs smoothly

Threading the Needle

insert double needle

activate the double needle limitation

(corresponding to needle size used) in the Security Program

• for more details on Security Program see page 32

•••••••••••

thread both needles

• for more details on Threading the Double Needle see page 16

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

Stitching the Pintucks

stitch first tuck - you may want to mark the line first

• the filler cord will automatically feed into the pintuck

turn work if required

place first pintuck in one of the side grooves in the presser foot (depending on the desired distance)

stitch second pintuck

• stitch additional pintucks parallel to these two

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85

Stitching Corners

• with a double needle the fabric cannot simply be pivoted at corners. Corners must therefore be sewn in several steps:

with the double needle in the fabric, turn the handwheel until the needles are just above the fabric (the eye appears, but the point is still in the fabric)

pivot the fabric halfway into the corner (45°), make one stitch, bring the needle back to the same position (just above the fabric)

pivot the fabric another 45° and continue

• stitching for a pointed corner, simply repeat the steps until the desired angle is reached

Shaped Pintucks

• in addition to straight lines, pintucks may also be stitched in wavy lines as desired

Combining Decorative Stitches and Pintucks

if you wish to place rows of decorative stitching directly between pintucks, use Reverse pattern foot No. 1C to stitch them before sewing the pintucks

use a removable stabilizer under the work and remove it after the decorative stitching is completed

stitch pintucks on the left and right of the decorative stitching as required and as described above

TIP

Use the seam guide for evenly spaced pintucks, especially for more widely spaced ones.

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Heirloom Techniques / Scallops Off the Edge

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Padded satin stitch No. 416 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or decorative up (sewing position)

Open embroidery foot No. 20C or

Embroidery foot No. 6 (special accessory)

Padded Satin Scallops

•

• an «airy» finish for any finished edge for garments, table and bed linens

Preparation

to create padded satin scallops «in the air», i.e.

off the edge, place watersoluble or tear-away stabilizer under the fabric, allowing to protrude clearly at the edge

pin or baste stabilizer to fabric

place filler cord spool (e.g. Perle cotton No. 8) on FHS lifter

• the filler cord, which stabilizes the scallops, should be the same color as the thread used to make the scallops, as well as be colorfast and shrinkproof

thread the filler cord from underneath the stitch plate through the hole in the stitch plate

• for more information on Inserting Gimp Cord see page 85

••••••••••••••

Stitching

stitch the first row of scallops

• the scallops always begin and end on the fabric edge, with the curve being stitched on the stabilizer

• if the scallops do not begin and end on the fabric, they will not be attached to it

add 2 to 3 more rows of scallops as desired

• with additional rows, the scallop begins and

• ends in each case in the middle of the scallop of the previous row if the scallop stitch does not begin or end in the middle of the scallop of the previous row, the rows will not hold together

carefully remove the stabilizer on completion of the stitching

TIP

As the padded satin scallop off the edge technique requires some practice, always sew a test.


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Heirloom Techniques / Corded Scallops

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Satin scallop stitch No. 507, 508 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or decorative up (sewing position)

Sideways motion foot No. 40C, and

Open Embroidery foot No. 20C, or

Embroidery foot No. 6 (special accessory)

• for more information on Sideways Motion

Stitches see page 90

••••••••••••••••••

Corded Scallops

• a decorative edge finish for garments and table and bed linens

Pre-stitching

place stabilizer under fabric edge

with foot No. 40C, stitch a row of satin scallops approx. 3/8” (1cm) from the edge, using the seam guide or slide-on table seam guide to help you stitch straight

Trim Fabric

once all the satin scallops are completed, carefully trim excess fabric

Corded scallops

Overstitching Corded Scallops

insert presser foot No. 20C, and place filler cord spool (e.g. Perle cotton No. 8) on the FHS lifter

• the filler cord, which stabilizes the scallops, must be the same color as the thread used to make the scallops, as well as colorfast and shrinkproof

use Zig-zag stitch No. 2 (stitch width approx. 5, length approx. 1/2 - 1) to overstitch the scallops,

• guiding the filler cord along the stitching the needle swing will alternately penetrate the scallop stitching and the fabric just next to the cord

slightly narrow the stitch width at the end of each scallop. Sew last few stitches to end of scallop, turn fabric slightly (with the needle down), then sew a few stitches, and widen stitch width again to sew the broad part of the scallop

Pre-stitching corded scallops

TIP

reduce sewing speed when overstitching corded scallops (using Motor Speed function)

activate the Needle Stop Down function which is a big help when overstitching

Use double cord.

Overstitching corded scallops

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Sideways Motion Stitches

In General


• sideways motion stitches are large stitches which are sewn with the fabric being fed sideways, as well as forwards and backwards

touch desired stitch to activate it

• sideways motion stitches are depicted with 4 arrows in the


• start (green point) and end (read cross) are visible in the Stitch

Altering Area

•

• with some individual stitches (e.g. Single motif No. 218), the sewing computer stops automatically other stitches (e.g. No. 808) can be stitched continuously

Templates as Sewing Aid

• the templates enclosed with the owner’s manual help to

•

•

• position the stitches on the fabric all sideways motion stitches are printed in their original size on the template the starting point of the individual stitches is marked with a circle, the end with a cross. The beginning and end are also provided with a hole (so that they can be accurately marked on the fabric) the starting and end are also shown on screen, once the stitch

•

• is selected, in the Stitch Altering Area the sewing direction is indicated by a presser foot symbol and thin guide lines the presser foot must always run parallel to the guide lines

place the template on the fabric to mark the starting point of the desired stitch

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Decorative stitches – Applications

89

Sewing Sideways Motion Stitches

use the slide-on table to enlarge sewing area

insert needle at starting point (pay attention to sewing direction on template)

position fabric so that guide lines on template run parallel to presser foot, then remove template

stitch: the sewing computer will stitch the selected stitch

•

• make sure that the fabric feeds freely and evenly - it must not be inhibited (must not bump into anything, or drag) it is important to let the sewing computer stitch without

«helping» it by pushing, pulling or holding the fabric back

• before starting to stitch, it might be helpful to draw a line on the fabric in the same direction as the template lines to serve as a guide for parallel stitching

Combining Sideways Motion Stitches and Functions

sideways motion stitches can be combined with all functions active on the screen (e.g. «Mirror Image»)

• the size of most sideways motion stitches cannot be altered

(noticeable by different color of Stitch Width and Stitch Length

Indication)

Balance

•

• depending on type of fabric, stabilizer and thread quality, the stitches may differ slightly from the original use the Balance function to match the selected stitch to the fabric used

• for more information on Balance see page 184

••••••••••••••

TIP

It is always a good idea to test sew with the materials you intend to use - fabric, stabilizer, and threads.

90


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Combining Manually With Templates

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Sideways motion stitches size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or decorative up (sewing position)


Using Templates to Position Sideways Motion

Stitches

use templates to position the sideways motion stitch on the desired place on the fabric

transfer the starting point (circle) of the stitch to the fabric

Sewing

use the slide-on table to enlarge the sewing area

select sideways motion stitch in Single Mode

place sideways motion presser foot on the fabric as shown on the template so that needle will go through starting point of the stitch

stitch

Continuous Sideways Motion Stitch as Single Repeat

touch Pattern Repeat 1-9x function once («1» appears in display): sewing computer stops automatically

Using the Template to Add an Additional Sideways Motion

Stitch

use template to add another sideways motion stitch: position template on fabric once more, mark starting point again, select sideways motion stitch, place presser foot as shown on template and stitch

TIP

Since threads are secured automatically when sewing sideways motion stitches, it is particularly convenient after stitching to cut off threads directly using the Automatic Thread Cutter function.

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91


Automatic Connection With 16 Directional Sewing

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Sideways motion stitches size and type suitable for the fabric selected decorative up (sewing position)


Automatic Connection of Sideways Motion Stitches With

16 Directional Sewing

• sideways motion stitches can be connected automatically using the 16 Directional Sewing in Combi Mode

Using Templates to Define Spacing

place template of first sideways motion stitch

(e.g. No. 205) on fabric

mark start and end point of first stitch

place second stitch using the 16 Directional

Sewing template (same sewing direction as first stitch)

• the presser foot icon, which shows in the sewing direction, is placed on the end point of the first stitch

• start point of second stitch must be placed on one of the 16 sewing directions and one of the spacing points (point of arrow)

note direction to start point of next stitch (e.g.

No. 205) and count number of spaces in-between (9mm each)

92


Programming Sideways Motion Stitches and Spaces

select desired sideways motion stitch (e.g. No. 205) in Combi

Mode

select «16 Directional Sewing»

select Straight stitch No. 39, default setting with stitch length 1 (sews only every 3rd stitch = 3mm)

using the arrow on-screen buttons, enter direction as noted before

activate Long Stitch function (sews only every 9th stitch)

•

1 Straight stitch No. 39 (stitch length 1) in combination with

Long Stitch function gives a 9mm space

enter number of straight stitches (= connecting stitches) according to spaces counted

remember to delete Long Stitch function!

select second sideways motion stitch

to sew a single repeat activate Pattern Repeat 1-9x function

(«1» appears)

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Sewing the Stitch Combination

place sideways motion presser foot on fabric as

• shown on template so that needle will go through starting point of stitch the sewing computer will stitch the first stitch first, then switch automatically to connecting stitches, and stop automatically at the end of the second stitch

since the sideways motion stitches are secured automatically, the connecting stitches can be cut away when the stitching is completed

Correcting a Combination


• stitches are always inserted above the cursor

• to insert a stitch at the beginning of a stitch combination, move the cursor upwards, using the scrolling arrow

activate desired place by selecting the desired stitch in the Stitch Altering Area or scroll to it

select new stitch

• the stitch will be inserted above the cursor



activate desired place by selecting desired stitch in the Stitch Altering Area or scroll to it

touch «Delete»


•


•••••••••

•

For more information on

Preview of Combination see page 160

••••••••••

TIP


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93


Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Straight stitch No. 39 / Zig-zag stitch No. 40 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or decorative up (sewing position)



•

•

• sew automatically in 16 directions without turning fabric for many decorative projects for quilting without turning the fabric

Screen Display

select «16 Directional Sewing» screen display

touch straight stitch or zig-zag

a presser foot symbol with the 16 sewing directions all around it appears in the middle of the screen

use the right or left arrow on-screen button to change direction one step at a time

Straight Stitch No. 39

Straight stitch No. 39 sews only every third stitch

• the default setting for stitch length is 1

(= 3mm) and is infinitely variable from

0 - 1 (= 0 - 3mm)

activate Long Stitch function in addition: the sewing computer sews every 9th stitch

(stitch length default setting 1 is 9mm)

Zig-zag Stitch No. 40

• stitch length is preprogrammed for satin stitching and is infinitely variable from

•

0 - 1mm stitch width is adjustable from 0 - 9mm

Sewing


• adjust stitch width and length if required

touch arrow on-screen button to set

• sewing direction the sewing computer will sew the selected stitch in the selected direction displayed

Changing Direction

stop the sewing computer when the desired length has been stitched

touch arrow on-screen button to change sewing direction

stitch

94


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Connecting Stitches

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Straight stitch No. 39 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or decorative up (sewing position)


16 Directional Straight Stitches as Connecting Stitches

•

•

• particularly suitable for scattering motifs over large areas connecting individual motifs, sideways motion stitches, or monogrammed letters connecting threads are removed after sewing

Straight Stitch With Long Stitch Function

• straight stitch with stitch length 1 default setting sews only every third stitch (= 3mm)

if Long Stitch function added, the sewing computer will sew every

•

9th stitch (= 9mm) stitch length is infinitely variable

Sewing and Freely Combining

select decorative stitch and sew once (first touch Pattern Repeat

1-9x function once)

select Straight stitch No. 39

use the arrow on-screen buttons to determine sewing direction

touch Long Stitch function

sew connecting stitches (sewing computer will sew the selected long straight stitch in the direction shown)

touch «Pattern End» button on head frame

• sewing computer stops automatically once the stitch has been completed

do not forget to delete Long Stitch function!

select decorative stitch and sew once (first touch «Pattern Repeat

1-9x» once)

select straight stitch, determine new sewing direction using the arrow on-screen buttons, reactivate

Long Stitch function, and sew connecting stitches again, etc.

Creating a Combination in Combi

Mode

• instead of freely connecting stitches, the stitches may be programmed with the connecting stitches in Combi

•

Mode the programming of connected stitches is the same as for connecting sideways motion stitches or monogrammed letters

Note:

Activate Securing function to secure motifs at beginning and end. This will ensure that the motif stays in place once the connecting threads are clipped.

•

•

• more information on:

Connecting Sideways Motion Stitches on page 92

Connecting Monogrammed Letters on page 105

Saving Combinations on page 158

•••••••••••••


95

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Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Stitch Nos. 41 - 48 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or decorative up (sewing position)


4 Sewing directions

•

4 directional automatic sewing without turning fabric

•

•

• sewing decorative squares appliquéing squares sewing patches on garments, especially on pants legs, sleeves, etc.

Screen Display

select «4 Directional Sewing» screen display

•

8 different stitches are available to you:

No. 41 Straight stitch

No. 42 Zig-zag stitch

No. 43 Jersey stitch

No. 44 Running stitch

No. 45 Double overlock

No. 46 Blanket stitch

No. 47 Super stretch

No. 48 Honeycomb

•

•

• a presser foot symbol with the 4 sewing directions arranged around it appears in the middle of the screen use the right or left arrow on-screen button to change direction one step at a time stitch length can only be altered for forward and reverse stitching

Preparation

place square on fabric, pin and baste if required

first place double-sided fusible stabilizer under square, then press onto fabric

• for more information on preparation with double-sided fusible stabilizer see «Preparation of Appliqué» on page 143

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••

Sewing on a Square


• it is easiest to sew the square on clockwise

sew one side with the needle swing stitching alternately into the square and just off the square into the fabric

touch arrow on-screen buttons to change sewing direction

sew next side, etc.

96


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Alphabet Summary

Important Lettering

Information

98

99

Combining Lettering (9mm)

100

General Monogramming

Information

(Sideways Motion) 103

Monogram Size 1

104

Monogram Sizes 2 and 3

107

Lettering

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Alphabet Summary

Alphabets

press Alphabet button

Summary

Alphabet Summary

•

Alphabet summary appears

Block

Double Block

Script (Italics)

Monograms 30/20/15mm

(sideways motion)

• for more information on Full Stitch Summary see page 272-273

••••••••••••••••••••••••••

98

Lettering – Summary

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Important Lettering Information

Lettering – Alphabets, Numbers, Punctuation Marks

•

•

•

4 different alphabets are available each of the alphabets can be sewn in two different sizes as well as in lower case (apart from the monograms) the monogram letters alphabet is available in three different sizes

Application

•

•

•

• for names, monograms and addresses for words and texts for labeling quilts (quilt labels) for labeling (labels)

Selecting Alphabets

press Alphabet button

•

Alphabet folders appear on screen:

•

Block (9mm)

•

•

Double Block (9mm)

Script (Italics) (9mm)

•

Monograms 30/20/15mm

(sideways motion)

touch one of the buttons to select

• desired alphabet is activated

On-screen Letter Selection

• scroll up and down to view all capital letters, numbers, punctuation marks and special characters

touching the «A/a» on-screen button changes to lower case

Perfect Stitch Formation

use the same color for upper and bobbin threads

use stabilizer on the wrong side to reinforce sewing project

use additional water soluble stabilizer on the right size on pile and long fiber fabric (e. g. wool, velvet, etc.)

use simpler letters, programmed with straight stitches (like

Double Block lettering), on lightweight fabrics, and satin stitch programmed lettering (like monograms) on heavyweight fabrics for decorative accents

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Lettering – Summary

99

Combining Lettering (9mm)

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Letters 9mm size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton, decorative up (sewing position)


Letters 9mm

individual letters and rows of the same letter of the same alphabet are sewn in Single Mode

letters for names, addresses, words, etc. are combined and sewn in Combi Mode

Applications

Letters in Combi Mode

Combining Letters

open Combi Mode

select desired letter

• letter appears in Stitch Altering Area and on bar

• above Alphabet menu cursor is below the letter

select next letter and touch required button

• second letter appears in Stitch Altering Area, etc.

•

For more information on Preview of Combination see page 160

•••••••••••••••••••••••••

100

Lettering – Applications

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Combining Lettering and Functions

Change Size

touch Alphabet Size button: the field with number «2» is blue

• the letter size is reduced to 6mm

touch «Alphabet Size» again to reactivate the larger size

(field with number «1» is blue)

Select Lower Case

select function before programming the lettering

touch Lower Case/Upper Case button

• the field is blue, meaning that Lower Case is active

touch Lower Case/Upper Case button again

•

Upper Case is reactivated

Mirroring Lettering

touch «Horizontal Mirror Image (left/right)»

• t he letter is mirrored horizontally

• for special effects «Vertical Mirror Image» can be selected

• for more information on Mirror Combination left/right see page 162

••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

Using Pattern Extend to Stretch Lettering

touch «Pattern Extend» one time

• selected stitch or pattern is stretched by 2 times its original size

Sample of Combination of Lettering and Functions

open «Combi Mode»

 select Script, and touch capital B

• capital B is displayed in Stitch Altering Area

select Lower Case function

select the letters e , r , n , i , n , and a in lower case and in that order

•

«Bernina» is displayed in Stitch Altering Area

Pattern Combination as Single or Multiple Repeat

create pattern combination

touch «Pattern Repeat 1-9x» button one or more times

(numbers 1-9 appear)

• sewing computer stops automatically after completing selected number of patterns

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101

Combination Sub-divider

•

Combination Sub-divider is used to stitch a text, e.g.

an address, in subsequent lines instead of in one continuous line

insert «Combination Sub-divider» at the desired places

stitch, the sewing computer stops automatically at the end of the first combination part

place fabric again

continue to stitch, the sewing computer stops automatically at the end of the second combination part

repeat as often as required

Note:

For accurate placement of the lettering in equally spaced lines, draw a guide line on the fabric.

For centered texts, sew it out first to measure it, then draw the guide lines.

Correcting Combinations

Inserting Letters

•

• a letter is always inserted above the cursor cursor must be scrolled up (arrow) to insert an additional letter at the beginning of lettering

activate desired place by selecting required letter in Stitch

Altering Area or scroll to it

select new letter

• letter is inserted above cursor

Deleting Letters

a letter is always deleted above the cursor

activate desired place by selecting required letter in Stitch

Altering Area, or scroll to it

touch «Delete»

• letter is deleted

•


••••••••••••••••••••

TIP securing stitches)

There are different ways to automatically secure stitching:

1. touch function button before starting to sew to secure stitching at the beginning

2. program function within a combination to secure accordingly

102


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General Monogramming Information

Sideways Motion

Monograms (sideways motion)

• sideways motion stitches are large stitches or patterns which are sewn with the fabric being fed sideways, as well as

•

• forward and backward monograms (sideways motion) are represented by 4 arrows top left in the Stitch Altering Area start (green point) and end (red cross) are visible in the Stitch

Altering Area

Monogram Sizes

•

• lettering size 1 is 30mm when starting the monogramming program, lettering size 1 is normally activated

•

• monograms in size 1 are individual letters, which means that the sewing computer secures and stops after each letter the templates included with the owner's manual contain size 1 monograms

• lettering size 2 is 20mm

touch Alphabet Size button: the field with number

•

«2» is blue size 2 monograms are sewn in a continuous horizontal row on the fabric

• lettering size 3 is 15mm

touch Alphabet Size button: the field with number

•

«3» is blue size 3 monograms are sewn in a continuous horizontal row on the fabric

Note:

Size 1 monograms are dealt with differently than sizes 2 and 3.

See pages 104-106 (size 1) 107-108

(size 2 and 3).

Sewing Sideways Motion Stitches

use slide-on table to enlarge sewing area

when sewing, ensure that fabric feeds smoothly and easily, without bumping into anything or dragging

it is important to let the sewing computer do the stitching freely; do not pull, push, or hold the fabric back

Balance

•

• depending on type of fabric, stabilizer and thread quality, the stitched patterns may differ slightly from the original use the Balance function to match the selected stitch to the fabric used

TIP

It is always a good idea to test sew with the materials you intend to use – fabric, stabilizer, and threads.

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103

Size 1 Monograms

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Size 1 monograms size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton, decorative up (sewing position)


Size 1 Monograms

• size 1 monograms are individual letters, which means that the sewing computer secures and stops

templates are used to position monograms

monograms can be positioned and combined manually, using templates, or connected automatically with the 16 sewing directions

Templates as Sewing Help

•

• the templates included with the owner’s manual are helpful when positioning patterns on the fabric all size 1 monograms are printed in their original size on the templates

•

•

• the starting point of the individual pattern is marked with a green circle, the end with a red cross. The beginning and end are also provided with a hole (for accurate transfer and marking on the fabric) the sewing direction is shown with the presser foot symbol and thin guiding lines the presser foot must always run parallel to the guiding lines when sewing

Combining Monogram Letters Manually With Templates

Combining Monogram Letters With Templates

using the template, position letter at desired place on fabric

transfer starting point (circle) of letter to fabric

104


Sewing

select letter in Single Mode

place sideways motion presser foot on the fabric as shown on the template so that needle will go through starting point on letter

stitch letter

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Adding Letter Using the Template

use template to add letter on fabric.

Again: mark starting point, select letter, place presser foot as shown on template, and stitch letter

Connecting Monogram Combinations Automatically With 16 Directional Sewing

Instead of combining monogram letters manually, they can be combined automatically using the template and the 16 Directional Sewing function.

Determining Spacings Using Templates

place template with first letter of monogram (e. g. «F») on fabric

mark start and end point of letter

using the 16 directional sewing template, place second letter

• of monogram (same sewing direction as first pattern (letter) the foot icon, pointing in the sewing direction, is placed on the end point of the first pattern

the start point of the second letter (e. g. «G») must be placed on one of the 16 directions and a spacing mark (arrow point)

read the direction to the start point of the next sideways motion stitches (letter), and count the number of spaces

(9mm each)

Programming Monograms and Spaces

select desired letter in Combi Mode (e. g. «F»)

select 16 Directional Sewing in Decorative Stitches Category

select Straight stitch No. 39 with stitch length basic setting 1

(sews only every 3rd stitch, and is 3mm)

enter desired direction

activate Long Stitch function (sews only every 9th stitch)

• one Straight stitch No. 39 (stitch length 1) in combination with the Long Stitch function leads to a spacing of 9mm length

program the number of required straight stitches (connecting stitches) according to the counted spacings

 Do not forget to delete the Long Stitch function!

select second letter (e. g. «G»)

to sew a single repeat activate «Pattern Repeat 1-9x»

(number «1» appears)

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105

Sewing Monograms

place sideways motion presser foot on the fabric as shown on the template so that needle will go through starting point on letter

•

• sewing computer will first stitch first letter («F»), sews automatically the connecting stitches, and stops automatically at end of second letter («G») since the monogrammed letters are secured automatically, the connecting stitches can be cut away after completing the stitching



• a stitch is always inserted above the cursor

• to insert a stitch at the beginning of a stitch combination, move the cursor up, using the scrolling arrow

activate desired place by selecting the required stitch in the

Stitch Altering Area or scroll to it

select new stitch

the stitch will be inserted above the cursor



activate desired place by selecting required stitch in the Stitch

Altering Area or scroll to it

touch «Delete»


•

For more information on Preview of

Combination see page 160

••••••••

•


••••••••

106


TIP


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Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Size 2 and 3 monograms size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton, decorative up (sewing position)


Size 2 and 3 Monograms

•

• size 2 and 3 monograms are sewn in a continuous horizontal line size 2 and 3 monograms are dealt with similarly to 9mm lettering

Size 2 and 3 Monograms in Combi Mode

Combining Size 2 and 3 Monograms

open Combi Mode

select desired letter

• letter appears in Stitch Altering Area

• cursor is behind the letter

select next letter, and touch corresponding button

• second letter appears in Stitch Altering Area, etc.

• f or more information on Preview of Combination see page 160

••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

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107

Combining Size 2 and 3 Monograms and Functions

Combining Lettering and Functions – An Example

open Combi Mode

touch letter « B »

• letter « B » appears in Stitch Altering Area

select size 2 monograms

touch letter « E »

select size 3 monograms

select the letters R , N , I , N , A in that order

• the Stitch Altering Area now displays the word

«BERNINA»

Pattern Combination in Single or Multiple Repeat

touch Pattern Repeat 1–9x button one or more times

•

(numbers 1–9 appear) after creating a combination the sewing computer stops automatically on completion of the entered number of combinations

108




•

• a stitch is always inserted above the cursor to insert a stitch at the beginning of a stitch combination, move the cursor up, using the scrolling arrow

activate desired place by selecting the required stitch in the


select new stitch

• the stitch will be inserted above the cursor



activate desired place by selecting required stitch in the


touch «Delete»


•


•••••••••••

• f or more information on Preview of Combination see page 160

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

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Buttonhole Summary

110

Buttonhole Functions

111

Important Information

112

Corded Buttonholes

114

Automatic Buttonhole

• all types with Direct Entry Length

• Standard and stretch with length calculated from button

116

Buttonhole in Long Term

Memory

118

Automatic Buttonholes

(Standard and Stretch)

• without stitch counter buttonhole

119

Automatic Round, Keyhole and

Hand-look Buttonholes

• without stitch counter buttonhole

121

Stitch Counter Buttonhole

123

Manual 4 or 6 Step Buttonhole

• all types of buttonholes

• Round and keyhole buttonhole

125

Straight Stitch Buttonhole

127

Bound Buttonhole

129

Decorative Buttonholes

131

Button Sew-on Program

132

Eyelets

133

Buttonholes

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Stitch Summary

Summary

Application of Buttonholes

Standard Buttonhole

Light- to mediumweight fabrics. Blouses, dresses, bedding, etc.

Narrow buttonhole (heirloom sewing)

Light- to mediumweight fabrics. Blouses, dresses, children’s and baby clothes, dolls’ clothes, crafts

Stretch buttonhole

All stretch fabrics made from cotton, wool, silk and synthetic fibers

Round buttonhole with normal bartack

For medium- to heavyweight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear

Round buttonhole with horizontal bartack

For medium- to heavyweight fabrics of all types. Clothing, jackets, coats, rainwear

Keyhole buttonhole with horizontal bartack

For firm non-stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, leisure wear

Hand-look buttonhole

Light- to mediumweight woven fabrics.

Blouses, dresses, leisure wear, bedding

Straight stitch buttonhole

For reinforcing buttonholes, pocket edges, especially for stitching buttonholes in leather or imitation suede

Button sew-on program

For buttons with 2 and 4 holes

Narrow zig-zag eyelet

Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, decorative work

Keyhole buttonhole with normal bartack

Heavyweight non-stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, leisure wear

Keyhole buttonhole with pointed bartack

Heavyweight non-stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, leisure wear

110

Buttonholes – Summary

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Straight stitch eyelet

Opening for cords and narrow ribbons/bands, decorative work

In General

Buttonholes are practical closures which can also be used for a decorative effect. The artista 730 provides a very versatile selection.

All buttonholes can be sewn and programmed in a variety of ways.

Buttonholes/Button Sew-on Program/Eyelets

press Buttonhole button

• a summary of the different buttonholes and eyelets appears on the screen display

Select Buttonhole/Buttonhole Sew-on

Program/Eyelet

touch desired stitch

• the selected buttonhole, eyelet or button sew-on program is activated

• if one of the stitches (51-63) is activated, all functions that can be used are on the function toolbar

• for more information on Application see pages

116-133

••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

Buttonhole Program Functions

The functions below appear on the function toolbar at the lower edge of the screen display when any buttonhole (51-59 + 63) is selected.

Programming Buttonhole Length

• the symbol is automatically highlighted in

•

•

• blue (active) when a buttonhole is selected using the Quick Reverse button on head frame a buttonhole length can be determined directly when the buttonhole is programmed the symbol is turned off (inactive, yellow) if a new length is to be programmed the symbol has to be reselected

Manual Buttonhole

touch symbol to open special screen display

sew manual buttonhole in 4 or 6 steps (according to buttonhole type)

Application:

•

• for individual manually sewn buttonholes to repair existing buttonholes

Buttonhole Length – Direct Entry Length

(in mm) or On-screen Button

Measurement

touch symbol to open special screen display

enter the buttonhole length (stitch length in mm) directly with the stitch length or stitch width knob

to measure hold button to bottom lower left corner of screen

the buttonhole length is obtained by adjusting blue circle to button size (with

• stitch length or stitch width knob)

2mm for the button thickness will be added automatically (with on-screen button measurement only)

Application:

• simple method to determine buttonhole size by direct entry of the length in mm or by measuring button on the screen

Stitch Counter Buttonhole

select buttonhole

touch symbol

• the stitch counter buttonhole is activated

when the desired length is reached

(first buttonhole bead), press the

•

• external Quick Reverse button after length of second bead is determined by pressing the Quick

Reverse button, the screen display changes to «auto Stitch Counter» the selected buttonhole is programmed

Buttonholes – Summary

111

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Important Buttonhole Information

Marking Buttonholes

Manual Buttonholes

•

Buttonhole foot No. 3C

the buttonhole length of manually stitched buttonholes must be marked on the fabric in the appropriate position

Automatic Buttonholes

•

Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

mark the length of the first buttonhole

• after sewing the first buttonhole, the length for all subsequent buttonholes is automatically programmed

mark the starting point of all subsequent buttonholes

• the buttonhole length indicates the buttonhole opening in mm

Keyhole Buttonholes

• mark the bead

• length only the correct length eye will be added when the buttonhole is sewn

Correct Interfacing/Stabilizers for Buttonholes

1 2

Automatic Buttonholes

always use a interfacing (1) so that the buttonholes turn out well

• the interfacing should suit the fabric type

for thick and fluffy fabrics an embroidery stabilizer can be used (2). The fabric feeds better.

Sewing Buttonholes

Test Sewing

always sew a test on the fabric(s) you will use with the same interlining and stabilizers

select the same buttonhole type

sew all buttonholes in the same direction on the fabric (with or against the grain)

Corrections

•

• to adjust the bead width, alter the stitch width to adjust the density of the beads,

• alter the stitch length any alterations to the stitch length with automatic and manual buttonholes affect both beads

(making them more or less dense)

112

Buttonholes – Important Information

032131.70.04_0509_a730_EN

•

•

•

Thread Tension

the tension is set automatically when a buttonhole is selected the upper tension is slightly looser than normal this gives a slightly rounded appearance to the beads, making the buttonhole more attractive

Balance for Buttonholes

Balance for Direct Entry Length Standard Buttonhole

• any Balance alterations affect both beads

Note:

With Direct Entry Length and Manual buttonholes each individual buttonhole sequence can be balanced separately.

With the Stitch Counter buttonholes any Balance alteration affects both beads differently

(left and right): by adjusting the beads the keyhole or eye will be altered as well.

A

A B

B

Balance for Direct Entry Length Keyhole or Round Buttonholes

•

• any Balance alterations affect both beads the keyhole or eye is balanced as follows:

1. sew straight stitches until the sewing computer changes to the keyhole or eye, then stop the sewing computer

2. touch «Balance» and now adjust the picture in the right portion of the

Balance screen with the stitch length knob to suit the sewn buttonhole

• if keyhole is distorted to the right (picture A)

turn stitch length knob counter clockwise

• if keyhole is distorted to the left (picture B)

turn stitch length knob clockwise

3. touch «OK» and complete buttonhole

Balance for Stitch Counter Buttonhole

• any Balance alterations affect both beads differently:

• if left bead is too dense (picture A)

turn stitch length knob counter clockwise - left bead will be longer,

• right bead will be shorter if left bead not dense enough (picture B)

turn stitch length knob clockwise - left bead will be shorter, right bead will be longer

reprogram buttonhole after each Balance alteration

after any Balance changes are made, reprogram the buttonhole

Balance for Manual Standard Buttonhole

• any Balance alterations affect both beads

Balance for Manual Round or Keyhole Buttonhole

•

• any Balance alterations affect both beads differently (see picture for stitch counter buttonhole) the keyhole or eye is balanced as follows:

• if keyhole is distorted to the left (picture B)

turn stitch length knob counter clockwise

• if keyhole is distorted to the right (picture A)

turn stitch length knob clockwise

Recommendation

sew a test on the fabric(s) you will use

Clear Balance

touch «Reset» in the special Balance screen or press external «clr» button

(«clr» deletes the programmed buttonhole as well!)

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113

Corded Buttonhole

Cords

• gimp cord reinforces buttonholes and enhances their appearance

•

• the loop of the cord should be at the end of the buttonhole most subject to wear position the work accordingly under the presser foot

Suitable Cords:

•

•

•

Perle cotton No. 8 strong hand-sewing thread fine crochet yarn

Attaching the Cord Onto Presser Foot No. 3C

insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole

raise the presser foot

hook the cord over the center toe of the foot

place both ends of the cord in the grooves on the sole of the foot and pull them to the back


Sewing

sew the buttonhole in the usual manner, do not hold the cord tightly

the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it

TIP buttonholes can be reinforced with cord.

Attaching Cord in Automatic Buttonhole Foot No. 3A

insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole


guide the cord under the foot to the right

hook the cord over the pin at the back of the foot

114


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bring the cords to the front of the foot

pull each end into one of the notches at the front of the foot

Sewing

sew the buttonhole in the usual manner

do not hold the cord

the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it

Securing Cord

pull the cord through the buttonhole until the loop disappears into the end of it

pull the ends of the cord through to wrong side of the fabric, knot or secure with stitches

Cutting Buttonholes Open

using the seam ripper or buttonhole cutter and block, cut from both ends towards the middle

in order not to cut the ends of short buttonholes by mistake, place a pin at the end of the buttonhole for additional security

Buttonhole Cutter and Block (optional accessory)

place the fabric on a piece of wood

place the cutter in the center of the buttonhole

press the handle of the cutter (either by hand or with a hammer) to open the buttonhole

Sewing Buttonhole Diagonal to Edge

Height Compensating Plates for Buttonholes (optional accessory)

• when sewing a buttonhole using Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A on an uneven area (such as over a seam allowance), use the height compensating plates for buttonholes

place the plates from the back between fabric and slide foot bottom up to

• the thick part of the fabric and push to front this accessory will create a smooth surface for the foot and help make a perfect buttonhole

Using the compensation plate (in some countries only available as optional accessory) is recommended when sewing buttonholes in difficult fabrics. It can only be used with the Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A.

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115

Automatic Buttonhole (All Types)

Direct Entry Length

•

• enter the buttonhole length (buttonhole opening in mm) directly with the stitch length or stitch width knob suitable for all buttonhole lengths of 4mm up to the maximum length

Entering Buttonhole Length

• buttonholes can be sewn to a specific length with the Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

select type of buttonhole

touch the Direct Entry Length function

Applications

Determining Buttonhole Length

• a special screen display appears

enter buttonhole length with the stitch width or stitch length knob

• the programmed length is shown between the two arrows

confirm the desired length with «OK», the screen changes automatically

•

«auto» and the programmed length in mm appear on the screen

• the buttonhole length indicates the buttonhole opening in mm

Corrections

enter new length as described above

Back to Buttonhole Menu

touch «ESC» to return to Buttonhole screen

Deleting Saved Buttonholes

press external «clr» button or touch «recording»

•

«auto» disappears and «recording» appears

• a new buttonhole length can be programmed

116

Buttonholes – Applications

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Automatic Buttonhole (Standard and Stretch)

Button Measuring on Screen

The buttonhole size can be determined by holding a button on the screen.

The length will be determined by the stitch width or stitch length knob.

Opening Button Measurement

select buttonhole

touch the «Direct Entry Length» function

Determining Button Size


hold the button against the bottom left corner of the screen

use the external stitch width or stitch length knob to adjust

• the colored circle to fit around the button the button size is shown in mm between the two arrows

•

(e.g. 16mm) confirm the correct size with «OK», the screen changes automatically

Back to Buttonhole Menu

touch «ESC» to confirm and return to Buttonhole screen, the original settings remain

Buttonhole Size

•

• the sewing computer calculates the buttonhole size from the button diameter

2mm are added automatically to take the thickness of the button into account

Corrections for Thick Buttons

for buttons which are particularly thick, e.g. raised buttons, etc. make the colored circle 1 – 4mm larger than the button held on the screen

Test Buttonhole

sew a test buttonhole on a scrap of the fabric and interfacing

cut buttonhole open

push button through hole

correct the size if necessary



•

•

«auto» disappears and «recording» appears a new buttonhole length can be programmed

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Buttonhole in Long Term Memory

Long term saving of buttonhole programs is only possible for buttonholes originally stitched as

«auto» length buttonholes.

Saving Buttonhole (Save)

touch the displayed buttonhole in the Stitch Altering Area

(left portion of screen)

• an additional message appears

touch the Save function and the buttonhole is saved in the long term Memory

• for more information on programming the desired Automatic

Buttonhole see pages 116-117

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••

Recalling Saved Buttonhole

select the desired buttonhole type

• the buttonhole length appears on the Direct Entry Length on-screen button

touch the Direct Entry Length function and confirm the saved

• length on the screen that appears with «OK»

«auto» and the length in mm appear on the screen

Changing Saved Buttonhole


touch the Direct Entry Length function

• change the length of the saved buttonhole on the screen that appears and confirm with «OK»

save buttonhole as described above

• programming a new length overrides the existing saved one

Deleting Saved Buttonhole


touch the Direct Entry Length function and program a new length or touch the displayed buttonhole in the Stitch

Altering Area

• an additional message appears

touch «Reset» and the saved buttonhole is deleted


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Automatic Buttonholes (Standard and Stretch)

Without Stitch Counter Buttonhole

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Standard and Stretch buttonholes No. 51,

52 and 53 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)

Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A

Automatic Buttonhole

• the lens on the Automatic buttonhole foot

•

No. 3A automatically registers the length of the buttonhole (for exact duplication) and automatically completes the buttonhole, when reaching the maximum length suitable for all buttonhole lengths of 4mm up to the maximum length, which can be set with stitch width or stitch length knob

Note:

Both beads are sewn in the same direction.

The buttonhole length indicates the buttonhole opening in mm.

Sewing Standard and Stretch Buttonholes

Sewing First Bead

• the stitching sequence is displayed in the Stitch

Altering Area

sew the first bead forwards, stopping at the required length

Programming Buttonhole

press the Quick Reverse button on head frame

•

«auto» and the programmed length (in mm) appear on the screen to indicate that the buttonhole length is programmed

Auto Buttonhole the sewing computer sews the following automatically:

• straight stitches in reverse

•

• the first bartack the second bead forwards

•

• the second bartack the securing stitches. The sewing computer stops and automatically changes to the beginning of the buttonhole

All subsequent buttonholes will be sewn automatically to the same length (without pressing the Quick Reverse button)


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119

Important: How to Correct Mistakes

touch the Pattern Begin function

• the sewing computer reverts to the beginning of the buttonhole



•



TIP

The «auto» function ensures that each buttonhole will be exactly the same length as the previous one.

Marking

Due to the «auto» function only the beginning of the buttonholes have to be marked – a real time saver.

Keep the speed consistent for each buttonhole

(reduce speed with Motor Speed function if necessary).

This results in equal density of the buttonhole beads.

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Automatic Round, Keyhole and Hand-look Buttonholes

Without Stitch Counter Buttonhole

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Round and Hand-look buttonholes No. 54 +

55 + 63 and Keyhole buttonholes No. 56–58 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


Automatic Buttonhole

• the lens on the Automatic buttonhole foot

No. 3A automatically registers the length of the buttonhole (for exact duplication) and automatically completes the buttonhole, when reaching the maximum length

Note:

Both beads are sewn in the same direction.

The buttonhole length indicates the buttonhole opening in mm.

Sewing Round and Keyhole Buttonholes

Sewing Straight Stitches

• the stitching sequence is displayed in the Stitch Altering Area

sew straight stitches forwards, stopping at the desired length

Programming Buttonhole


•



• the eye or the keyhole

•

•

•

• the first bead in reverse straight stitches forwards the second bead in reverse the bartack

• the securing stitches. The sewing computer stops and changes automatically to the beginning of the buttonhole


Important: How to Correct Mistakes

touch the Pattern Begin function

• the sewing computer reverts to the beginning of the buttonhole


121

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Sewing Hand-look Buttonhole No. 63

Length of the First Bead

sew bead to desired length

stop sewing computer

Programming the Buttonhole

press Quick Reverse button on head frame

•



• the eye

• the second bead in reverse

• the bartack, the securing stitches and stops automatically




•



122

Buttonholes – Applications keyhole buttonholes can be sewn twice on thick fabrics and the stitches are made longer when sewing the first time (without keyhole and pointed bartack)

after sewing the first buttonhole, do not move the work, simply tap the foot control once to begin sewing again

TIP

for successful sewing of buttonholes always use a suitable stabilizer or interfacing

• using a gimp cord enhances the appearance of the buttonholes

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Stitch Counter Buttonholes for All Buttonhole Types

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Buttonholes (all types) size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)

Buttonhole foot No. 3C or


Stitch Counter Buttonholes

select buttonhole

touch the Stitch Counter function, the sewing computer recognizes the

Stitch Counter buttonhole program

• the length of the buttonhole is now determined by the Stitch Counter

Note:

The first bead (left) is sewn forwards, the second bead (right) is sewn in reverse.

The stitch counter buttonhole cannot be saved in the long term Memory.

Sewing Stitch Counter Buttonhole

sew with consistent speed

Length of First Bead

sew the first bead the desired length

stop the sewing computer


Bartack, Second Bead in Reverse

bottom bartack and second bead are sewn in reverse

stop sewing computer at the first stitch


Bartack, Securing Stitches

•

•

•

• the sewing computer sews the top bartack, securing stitches and stops automatically

«auto» and «Stitch Counter» appear on the screen the buttonhole is saved each subsequent buttonhole will be sewn identically


123

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•



Corrections

reprogram the buttonhole if any alterations to the stitch width, length or Balance have been made

Note:

Programmed buttonhole on a different fabric:

• different fabrics and interfacings can affect the look of a stitch counter buttonhole

•

• if you are using a different fabric, program the buttonhole again it is recommended to sew a test on the fabric(s) you will use

TIP

Ideal for buttonholes where the Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A cannot be used.

• always keep the speed consistent for beads of equal density sew at a moderate speed for best results (reduce speed with Motor Speed function if necessary)

TIP

Due to the «auto» function only the beginning of the buttonholes have to be marked – a real time saver.

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Manual 4 or 6 Step Buttonholes

(All Types)

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot: any Buttonhole size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)

Buttonhole foot No. 3C

Note:

Sewing buttonholes manually is ideal if you only need to sew one; also for repairing existing buttonholes.

The number of steps depends on the type of buttonhole.

A manually sewn buttonhole cannot be saved.

Opening Manual Buttonhole

select the type of buttonhole desired

touch «man» for the Manual Buttonhole function

Step Symbols

• the step sequence of the selected buttonhole is shown on the screen

•

•

•

•

«1» is activated standard buttonhole has 6 steps round, keyhole and hand-look buttonholes have

4 steps the active step is shown in the center

• omit or bypass the unneeded steps use only the steps which are necessary to repair the worn sections

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125

Sewing 4 or 6 Step Buttonholes

Round and Keyhole Buttonholes

Note:

The graphic on the screen is the same for the round and keyhole buttonholes.

Sewing a 4 Step Buttonhole

•

«1» is activated

sew the first bead

stop the sewing computer at the desired length

touch «2» on the screen

• the sewing computer sews the eye or the keyhole

touch «3»

• the sewing computer sews the second bead in reverse

stop the sewing computer at the first stitch

touch «4»

•

•

• the sewing computer sews the top bartack and secures stitches automatically the length of the beads is determined manually when sewing bartack, eye and securing stitches are preprogrammed

Leave Program

touch «ESC»

• screen reverts to the original Buttonhole screen

Sewing a 6 Step Buttonhole

•

«1» is activated

sew first bead

stop sewing computer at the desired bead length

Note :

6 bartack stitches are sewn and the sewing computer stops automatically.

If more than 6 bartack stitches are to be sewn, simply tap the foot control once to begin sewing again.

126


touch «2»

• the sewing computer sews straight stitches in reverse

stop sewing computer at the first stitch of the first bead

touch «3»

• the sewing computer sews the top bartack and stops automatically

touch «4»

• the sewing computer sews the second bead

stop sewing computer

touch «5»

• the sewing computer sews the bottom bead and stops automatically

touch «6»

• the sewing computer secures the stitches and stops automatically

the bead length is determined by the user

• the bartack and the securing stitches are preprogrammed

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Straight Stitch Buttonhole

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Straight stitch buttonhole No. 59 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)



Automatic Program With Automatic

Buttonhole Foot No. 3A

The lens on the Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A automatically registers the length of the buttonhole

(so it can be duplicated exactly).

Note:

Straight stitched buttonholes are particularly useful for reinforcing buttonholes on all soft and loosely woven fabrics such as wool, or for buttonholes which are subject to extreme wear. They are also useful for reinforcing buttonhole openings in leather, vinyl or felt.

Straight Stitch

select stitch No. 59 on the screen

Altering the Distance

alter the stitch width if the distance between the rows of stitching is too wide or too narrow

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127

Sewing Straight Stitch Buttonhole

Sewing the Automatic Buttonhole Program

sew the first row of straight stitches forwards until the desired length is reached

press the Quick Reverse button

•

«auto» and the programmed length (in mm) appear which

•

•

• means the length is programmed the sewing computer completes the buttonhole program automatically all subsequent buttonholes will be stitched to the same length

(without pressing the Quick Reverse button) the distance between the stitched rows can be adjusted with the stitch width

Sewing With Foot No. 3C (Stitch Counter)

select the Stitch Counter function for stitch counter buttonholes

•

Buttonhole foot No. 3C will register the number of stitches in the buttonhole

Sewing Stitch Counter Straight Stitch Buttonhole

sew the first bead, stop stitching at the desired length


sew the end of the buttonhole and then the second bead in reverse

stop sewing computer at the first stitch


• the sewing computer sews the horizontal bar and securing stitches and stops automatically

•

•

«auto» and the programmed length (in mm) appear on the screen each subsequent stitched buttonhole will be sewn to the same length as the programmed buttonhole

TIP for reinforcing buttonhole openings in leather, synthetic leather, vinyl or felt.

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Bound Buttonhole

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Straight stitch buttonhole No. 59

80 – 100 H cotton or polyester up (sewing position)



For topstitching: Straight stitch foot with sliding sole No. 53 (optional accessory)

Suitable Material for Bound Buttonholes

•

•

•

• synthetic leather leather

Alcantara plastic coated fabrics

Sewing Bound Buttonhole

1. Determining Buttonhole Size

cut a rectangular piece of fabric 1 1/4” (3cm) longer and 1 1/2” (4cm) wider than the buttonhole. This will create the welts.

place it on the leather (right sides together) and allow for facing if necessary

sew Straight stitch buttonhole No. 59 (stitch width being 9mm)

2. Cutting Buttonhole Open

cut buttonhole open in the center with pointed scissors about 5mm away from the end

at the corners cut diagonally to the seam – make sure not to cut into the seam!

3. Turning Buttonhole Through

turn the buttonhole through to the wrong side

press edges outwards

TIP medium heat and with a cloth.


129

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4. Pressing Welts

press welts on the wrong side of the fabric or baste, so that two equally big strips are formed on the right side

5. Edgestitching

edgestitch the buttonhole (see picture)

place facing on the wrong side

6. Topstitching Buttonhole

topstitch buttonhole with the Straight stitch foot with sliding sole No. 53 on the right side

(including facing)

7. Trimming Leather

cut leather of facing on the wrong side inside the sewn rectangle and trim away slightly

TIP

sew buttonhole as described under 1. – 7.

at the end, finish edges by hand and secure

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Decorative Buttonholes

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Buttonholes (all types) size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton, polyester or embroidery threads up (sewing position)

Reverse pattern foot No. 1C (for topstitching)

Buttonhole foot No. 3A or No. 3C

Decorative Buttonholes

• suitable for all buttonholes

• for decorating buttonholes as a creative element

Sewing

Topstitched Lizard

copy sketched lizard onto fabric or draw with a fine pencil, tailor’s chalk or an air or water soluble marker (test first on fabric remnant)

topstitch lizard along the drawn outlines and create the inner part with a zig-zag stitch (see picture)

sew buttonhole either with foot No. 3A or 3C

Buttonhole With Decorative Stitches

sew buttonhole either with Buttonhole foot

No. 3A or 3C

embellish buttonhole with Decorative stitch

No. 107 and placket with Decorative stitch

No. 708

TIP

Create buttonhole and combine with your personal embroidery from the artista PC software.

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131

Button Sew-on Program

Stitch:

Stitch width:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Button sew-on program No. 60 depends on the distance between the holes size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester down (darning position)

Button sew-on foot No. 18

Note:

Buttons with 2 and 4 holes can be attached with presser foot No. 18. The shank (thread length between button and fabric) can be made shorter or longer as desired. Buttons sewn on for decorative purposes only are stitched without a thread shank.

132


Button Sew-on Program

select stitch No. 60 on the screen

Sewing 2 Hole Button

check distance between holes with the handwheel and adjust stitch width if necessary

hold the threads when starting to sew

sew on button

• the sewing computer stops automatically when program is completed and is immediately ready for the next button

Sewing 4 Hole Button

sew the front holes first

carefully move the button forward

sew the back holes with the same program

Beginning and Ending Threads

the threads are secured and can be trimmed

For Secure Results

pull both bobbin threads until the ends of the upper thread are visible on the wrong side (knot if required)

trim threads

TIPS

A real time saver, especially when several of the same type buttons must be sewn on, e.g. blouses, bedding, etc.

For work which is subject to heavy wear or washing, sew Button sew-on program twice.

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Zig-zag or Straight Stitch Eyelets

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Narrow zig-zag eyelet No. 61 or

Straight stitch eyelet No. 62 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or polyester up (sewing position)


Note:

Eyelets are ideal openings for cords and narrow ribbons, attractive decorative elements, ideal for children’s clothing, and crafts. They cannot be programmed in stitch combinations.

Eyelet Programs

select desired eyelet

No. 61 = zig-zag eyelet

No. 62 = straight stitch eyelet

Sewing Eyelets

position fabric under the presser foot and sew

• the sewing computer stops

• automatically when finished and is immediately ready for the next eyelet sew twice for a more filled in satin stitch eyelet

Punching Eyelets

use an awl or punch to cut open the eyelet

TIP

Ideal for eyes on soft toys, dolls or use decorative thread to introduce an attractive element.

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133

134

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Stitch Summary

136

Important Information on

Different Techniques

137

Quilters Securing Program

• Stitch No. 324

138

Quilting Straight Stitch

• Stitch No. 325

139

Piecing Stitch/Straight Stitch

• Straight stitch No. 326

140

Hand-look Quilt Stitch

• Stitches No. 328, 346–350

141

Decorative Quilt Stitches

• Stitches No. 327, 332–345, 351

142

Satin Stitch

• Stitch No. 354

143

Blanket Stitches

• Stitches No. 329, 330, 352, 353

145

Turned-edge Appliqués

• Blindstitch No. 331

146

Freehand Quilting

• Stitch No. 325

148

Freehand Quilting With BSR

(Bernina Stitch Regulator)

Straight Stitch No. 1 or

Zig-Zag Stitch No. 2

149

Quilt Stitches

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Quilt Stitches

Summary

Quilt Stitches

Different stitches can be selected which can be used especially for quilting, patchwork or for appliqué:

No. 324 Quilters securing program

No. 325 Quilting straight stitch

No. 326 Piecing stitch / Straight stitch

No. 327 Stippling stitch

No. 328 Hand-look quilt stitch

No. 329 Blanket stitch

No. 330 Double blanket stitch

No. 331 Blindstitch

No. 332 Feather stitch

No. 333 - 338 Feather stitch variations

No. 339 - 345, 351 Decorative quilt stitches

No. 346 - 350 Quilt stitch / Hand-look quilt stitch variations

No. 352 Blanket stitch (dual)

No. 353 Double blanket stitch (dual)

No. 354 Satin stitch

touch the stitch of your choice

•

•

• the stitch is activated all information on-screen is visible stitch widths/stitch lengths can be altered and customized

136

Quilt Stitches – Summary

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Important Information on Different Techniques

Patchwork, Appliqué and Quilting

Patchwork

• with this technique fabric of different colors, forms and patterns are sewn together

• to make blankets, wall hangings and garments for the design of patchwork basic geometric forms are most suitable, e.g. different rectangular and triangular forms as well as squares

Stitch for patchwork:

•

No. 326 Piecing stitch / Straight stitch

Appliqué

•

• to appliqué is to apply patches of fabric by sewing or embroidering on the base fabric apart from creative and artistic designing the appliqué technique also makes it possible to cover damaged areas in a clever way

Following stitches can be used:

•

No. 354 Satin stitch

•

•

No. 329, 330, 352, 353 Blanket stitches

No. 331 Blindstitch

Quilting

Quilts consist of three layers:

• decorative top layer of fabric (usually

• patchwork) middle layer - batting

• bottom layer in plain fabric used as lining

After these three layers, which result in a

«quilt sandwich», have been pinned and basted they are sewn together with different stitches. This is called quilting.

Following stitches are suitable for quilting:

•

Nr. 324 Quilters securing program

•

•

Nr. 325 Quilting straight stitch

Nr. 328, 346–350 Hand-look quilt stitches

•

•

Nr. 327, 331–345, 351 Decorative quilt stitches freehand quilting with or without BSR

(optional accessory)

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Quilt Stitches – Summary

137

Quilters Securing Program

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Quilters securing program No. 324 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton, decorative or monofilament up (sewing position)


Walking foot No. 50 (optional accessory)

Applications

Quilters Securing Program

• suitable for all fabrics and quilting

• secures beginning and end of seam

Preparation

prepare a «quilt sandwich» by placing the batting between the lining and the top layer

pin and base the «quilt sandwich»

Beginning the Seam

• the sewing computer automatically secures at the beginning (six small stitches forwards)

continue sewing until shortly before the end

Ending the Seam

press and release the Quick Reverse button on head frame. The sewing computer secures automatically (six small stitches forwards) and stops automatically.

Note:

For work which is subject to heavy wear or washing, use

Securing stitch No. 5.

138

Quilt Stitches – Applications

TIP

When using thick fabric lengthen the stitch length.

TIP

A great help when quilting.

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Quilting Straight Stitch

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Quilting straight stitch No. 325 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton, decorative or monofilament up (sewing position)



Quilting Straight Stitch

• this quilt stitch is a straight stitch with a longer

• basic setting for machine quilting suitable for all fabrics and quilting

Preparation



Outline Quilting (Echo Quilting)

• allows you to add decorative elements

echo quilt in regular distances from the patchwork seams or around the form of the applied motif

Pattern Quilting

• allows you to add decorative elements

allows you to sew as many lines and forms on the work as desired

Shadow Quilting

• suitable for work where no additional effect is desired apart from the effect of the fabric strips sewn together

sew with the quilt stitch directly on the seam lines of the work

TIPS

When using thick fabric lengthen the stitch length.

Invisible quilt effect

If a monofilament thread is used the quilted seam looks invisible.

Needle stop down

A great help when quilting.


139

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Piecing Stitch / Straight Stitch

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Piecing stitch / Straight stitch No. 326 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton up (sewing position)


Patchwork foot No. 37 or Patchwork foot with guide No. 57 (optional accessory)

Piecing Stitch / Straight Stitch

• this piecing stitch is a short straight stitch

• suitable for piecing all patchwork

Sewing

pin fabric strips and sew them together

Sewing With Stitch Counter Function

For patchwork which consists of several strips of the same size, it helps to use the Stitch Counter function as well.

touch symbol, the Stitch Counter function is activated

sew until the desired length is reached

press external Quick Reverse button

•

• the number of sewn stitches is programmed

(temporarily) further fabric patches can be sewn together with the same programmed length (the sewing computer automatically stops at the end)

140


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Hand-look Quilt Stitch

Stitch:

Needle:

Needle thread:

Bobbin thread

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Hand-look quilt stitches No. 328, 346–350 size and type suitable for the fabric selected monofilament

50 or 30 weight cotton up (sewing position)



Hand-look Quilt Stitch

• suitable for all fabrics and work which should look «hand sewn»

Sewing a Test

• the bobbin thread has to be brought up; one stitch is visible (bobbin thread) and one stitch is invisible (monofilament thread), which results in the hand-look effect

Upper Thread Tension

•

• the upper thread tension is automatically set increase upper thread tension to suit fabric if necessary

Balance

• adjust stitch with the Balance if necessary

Sewing

• the hand-look quilt stitch can be sewn in any needle position

TIP

activate Pattern End and Needle Stop (the sewing computer automatically stops with the needle down) and pivot the work

when pivoting make sure that the needle ends in a down position, pivot and begin stitching

If the monofilament thread breaks, sew more slowly and/or reduce the upper thread tension slightly.

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Decorative Quilt Stitches

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Decorative quilt stitches No. 327, 332–345, 351 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton or decorative up (sewing position)



Decorative Quilt Stitches

•

• suitable for all fabrics and quilting especially applicable for crazy quilting

Preparation



Sewing

select quilt stitches and sew

•

• when applying crazy quilting the decorative quilt stitches are sewn over the patches as required all quilt stitches can be combined in the Combi

Mode

when using thick fabric lengthen the stitch length

adjust stitch with the Balance if necessary

Activate Pattern End and Needle Stop (the sewing computer automatically stops with the needle down) and pivot the work.

TIP

The stippling stitch can be enlarged by using the

Sideways motion stitch No. 515 or stitch No. 516.

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Satin Stitch

1

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Satin Stitch No. 354 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton, polyester, decorative up (sewing position)

Appliqué foot No. 23 (optional accessory),



Satin Stitch

•

• applying decorative appliqués suitable for many fabrics

Note:

Instead of double-sided adhesive stabilizer use fabric spray adhesive.

Preparation of Appliqué

• double-sided adhesive stabilizer helps to fix the motif on the base fabric and prevents it from creasing when sewing

design the motif in original size

copy a mirror image of the motif onto the paper side of the stabilizer and cut out roughly

press the stabilizer onto the wrong side of the appliqué fabric

(coated side lies on the fabric, see picture 1)

cut exactly along the motif (see picture 2)

tear off paper side (see picture 2)

2

place motif on base fabric (see picture 3)

if necessary place additional stabilizer under the base fabric

(e.g. embroidery stabilizer) to give fabric extra stability

3

Sewing Appliqué

secure the motif by oversewing the edge of the appliqué

the stitch goes slightly over the edge of the motif into the base fabric on the right swing of the needle (if required alter the needle position accordingly)


143

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Sewing Rectangular Corners (90°)

sew 3-4 stitches over the outer fabric edge

stitch over edge of the motif, needle position down and turn sewing

continue sewing, the corner will be oversewn twice

Sewing Obtuse Inside Corners (100°)

sew until the needle is down in the middle of the angle inside the motif

sew the corner in form of sun rays, i.e. needle down always at the same point on the motif, turn sewing slightly, sew two stitches, etc.

TIP

Sew a few straight stitches within the satin stitch

144


Sewing Mitered Corners

sew up to about 3/8” (1cm) before the corner

when continuing to sew reduce the stitch width slightly (almost 0)

stitch right into the middle of the corner, needle position down (outside the motif) and turn sewing

continue sewing and set the stitch width to its original setting in the first 3/8” (1cm)

Sewing Curves

sew slowly and stop often:

inner curves ( 1 ): needle position down inside the curve

outer curves ( 2 ): needle position down outside the curve

turn sewing slightly and continue sewing

repeat several times so that a nice and regular curve is obtained

TIPS

Needle stays in fabric when pivoting and turning.

Sewing speed

Reduced sewing speed allows better precision.

Perfect stitch formation

Different fabric types may make it necessary to alter the stitch length and width.

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Blanket Stitches

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Blanket stitches No. 329, 330, 352, 353 size and type suitable for the fabric selected cotton, decorative up (sewing position)



Blanket Stitches

• stitches No. 329 and No. 352 are for light- to mediumweight fabrics

• stitches No. 330 and No. 353 are for mediumto heavyweight fabrics

Sewing With Blanket Stitch No. 329 or No. 330

(Double Blanket Stitch)

• particularly suitable for appliqué

prepare motifs for appliqué and place on fabric

sew along the appliqué

• make sure that the vertical parts of the stitch are sewn on the outside edge next to the appliqué on the base fabric and the horizontal parts of the stitch are placed on the appliqué

•

For more information on «Sewing Appliqués» see pages 146-147

•••••••••••••••

Sewing With Blanket Stitch No. 352 (dual) or

No. 353 (Double Blanket Stitch (dual))

• suitable for appliqué, attaching ribbons and sewing fabric strips, couching decorative threads or yarns

prepare work

sew exactly on the edge between the appliqués

• or ribbons make sure that the vertical parts of the stitch are sewn directly between the appliqué or strips and the horizontal parts of the stitch are placed on the appliqué or strips to the left and right of both edges

• for a hand-stitched effect increase the stitch length and width according to the fabric for single blanket stitch, thread a 90 needle with two threads (using two spools and threading as one) for a hand-stitched effect


145

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Turned-edge Appliqués

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Blindstitch No. 331 size and type suitable for the fabric selected monofilament up (sewing position)


Turned-edge Appliqué

• the motifs with turned edges are sewn on the base fabric

• with monofilament thread the seam is hardly visible

Preparation

draw a mirror image of the motif on the non adhesive side of a slightly stronger press-on stabilizer

cut out stabilizer along the outline with scissors or rotary cutter

press the stabilizer onto the wrong side of the appliqué fabric

(make sure that the stabilizer sticks well)

cut all around the fabric with an allowance of approximately

6mm

snip allowance every 5mm (closer together in narrow curves)

fold allowance over the stabilizer edge to the wrong side.

The form is determined by the pressed on stabilizer.

Smooth edges with finger.

press and if necessary correct form irregularities

Sewing

place motif on base fabric and pin or use spray adhesive

sew appliqué with the blindstitch clockwise all around

sew that only the tips of the stitch (left points of stitch) are placed in the appliqué motif

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Variations

Use Paper Template Instead of Press-on Stabilizer

use thicker paper as template instead of press-on stabilizer

• by removing the paper before sewing, the appliqué will be softer

(covers, cushions, etc.)

draw motif on the thicker paper and prepare the appliqué as described (press the allowance around the paper template)

remove paper after pressing

pin motif and sew

Freezer Paper

• freezer paper is well known in quilter circles and is used instead of press-on stabilizer

work on appliqué as described using spray adhesive on freezer paper to attach it to the appliqué fabric

press allowance onto the shiny side

sew the motif, however stop shortly before the end and pull out the freezer paper through the opening

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147

Freehand Quilting

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Quilting straight stitch No. 325 size and type suitable for the fabric selected monofiliament, cotton or decorative down (darning position)

Darning foot No. 9 or Quilting foot No. 29

(optional accessory)

Freehand Quilting

• for all freehand quilt work

Preparation

•

• pin and baste top layer, batting, and lining together attach the slide-on table

Holding the Work

hold the fabric with both hands like an embroidery frame

start quilting in the center and work out towards the edges

Quilting a Design

turn the work using smooth, round movements to form the design of your choice (either freehand or following a template)

Stipple Quilting

•

• this technique covers the entire surface of the fabric the lines of stitching are rounded without any sharp corners; they never cross or touch one another

Both techniques are based on the same free-motion principles.

If the monofilament thread breaks, sew more slowly and/or reduce the upper thread tension slightly.

TIP

Usually as a result of sudden or jerky movements – move the fabric smoothly and at an even pace.

•

• if the thread forms loops, the work is being moved too quickly if knots are forming on the wrong side, the work is being moved too slowly place fabric in a hoop for easier guiding

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Freehand Quilting With BSR

(BERNINA Stitch Regulator) optional

Stitch:

Needle:

Thread:

Feed dog:

Presser foot:

Straight stich No. 1 or Zig-zag stitch No. 2 size and type suitable for the fabric selected monofilament or cotton, embroidery thread, polyester down (darning position)

BSR foot No. 42 incl. interchangeable soles (closed, open, transparent)

BSR (BERNINA Stitch

Regulator) Function

The BSR presser foot reacts to the movement of the fabric under the foot and controls the speed of the sewing computer up to the maximum speed possible. The following applies: the faster the fabric is moved the higher the speed of the sewing computer.

If the fabric is moved too fast an acoustic signal (beep) is heard. The beeper can be turned on or off on the «BSR» screen.

BSR Function With Straight Stitch

No. 1

This function using a special presser foot allows for free-motion quilting

(sewing) using the straight stitch and a pre-selected stitch length (up to

5mm).

A regulated set stitch length is maintained within a certain speed, independent of the movement of the fabric.

BSR Function With Zig-zag Stitch

No. 2

The zig-zag stitch can be used for thread painting or fabric embellishment for example.

The set stitch length will NOT be maintained when sewing with the zig-zag stitch, but the BSR function simplifies the application.

Warning!

By activating the BSR function the sewing computer sews either continuously at a reduced motor speed (mode 1, standard) or one single stitch (mode 2).

As long as the BSR presser foot is illuminated red, adjustments like threading and changing the needle, for example must not be carried out, as the needle will engage while fabric is moved unintentionally!

Without fabric feed the BSR mode is turned off after approx. 7 seconds and the red light goes off.

Please refer to the Safety Instructions!

BSR function can be sewn in 2 separate modes of

•

•

•

• operation

BSR mode 1 is the active standard the sewing computer runs continuously at a recuced motor speed, as soon as the foot control or the

Quick Reverse button is pressed moving the fabric under the foot will engage the sewing computer to accelerate through the continuous needle movement securing in the same position is possible without pressing an additional button

•

•

•

•

• touch the button «BSR2» to engage BSR mode 2 the sewing computer will only engage if the foot control or the

Quick Reverse button is pressed and the fabric is moved simultaneously the movement of the fabric determines the sewing speed for securing, the «Securing

Function» button must be pressed touch the button «BSR1» to engage BSR mode 1

For an even sewing start (one single stitch) the foot control must be pressed and the fabric moved simultaneously.

This also applies for sewing points and straight stitching within a round form.

If the BSR function is deactivated and later reactivated without the sewing computer being switched off in between, the last selected

BSR mode is active.


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149

Preparation

Securing Function (only Mode 2)

•

• lower the feed dog the presser foot pressure must be reduced

• attach the BSR presser foot to the sewing computer and plug the cable into the green socket until it clicks into place

•

•

•

•

• use slide-on table attach the desired presser foot sole to the BSR presser foot removing sole: press both buttons

(see arrows) on each side of the foot slide the sole down the groove at an angle attaching the sole: slide the sole up in the groove until it clicks into place

•

•

•

•

• the «BSR» screen opens automatically the BSR mode 1 is activated (BSR1 is standard) the basic stitch length setting is

2mm set the desired stitch length when sewing small forms and stippling, stitch length of 1mm -

1.5mm is suggested

Using the following functions in the BSR mode:

Needle Stop Down (Default)

• the arrow points down on the display = the sewing computer stops with needle down, when taking foot off foot control

Needle Stop Up

• press "Needlestop up/down" function. The arrow points up = the sewing/embroidery computer stops with the needle up on releasing the foot control

Raise or Lower the Needle

• by pressing the heel on the foot control, the needle can be lowered or raised

Securing With the Quick Reverse

Button (only Mode 1)

•

•

• unplug the foot control place the fabric under the presser foot, lower presser foot hold upper and lower thread tight

•

•

• and press Quick Reverse button to start BSR mode sew 5 to 6 securing stitches stop the BSR mode by pressing the

Quick Reverse button cut threads

• re-start the BSR mode by pressing the Quick Reverse button to continue the stitching process

Securing Function

(only Mode 2)

• press the «Securing

Function» button

•

• press the foot control or the Quick

Reverse button short securing stitch sequence will be sewn as soon as the fabric is moved under the presser foot.

After the sequence is sewn the set stitch length will be activated and the securing function will be automatically deactivated

Free Hand Quilting Without BSR

Activation

•

•

• touch the BSR button (on the left side on the display) the BSR mode is deactivated, the buttons «BSR1» and «BSR2» on the left side on the display go off normal free hand quilting can now be sewn with the BSR foot, without automatic regular stitch length

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When exceeding a certain speed, adhering to regular stitch length cannot be guaranteed.

Make sure that the lens on the bottom of the BSR foot is not dirty (fingerprints, etc.). Clean lens periodically with soft, slightly damp cloth.

Beeper (Acoustic Signal) Deactivation/Activation

Beeper Deactivation/Activation

• touch the bar with the speaker symbol for BSR one time

• if the bar is blue, the sound for the beeper is active

• if the bar is gray and the speaker is red, the sound for the beeper is inactive

Activating the BSR Sewing Function:

With the Foot Control

1. With the Foot Control

•

•

• plug in the foot control lower the presser foot start the BSR mode by pressing the foot control

•

•

•

• a red light appears on the presser foot the foot control must be pressed continuously during sewing the speed of the sewing computer will be regulated by the movement of the fabric by releasing the foot control the BSR mode will be stopped

2. With the Quick Reverse Button

•

•

• remove the foot control lower the presser foot start the BSR mode by pressing the Quick

Reverse button

•

•

• a red light appears on the presser foot the speed of the sewing computer will be regulated by the movement of the fabric by re-pressing the Quick Reverse button the BSR mode will be stopped

Deactivating the BSR Sewing Function:

Mode 1:

• if the fabric is not moved for approx. 7 seconds, the BSR mode will be deactived and the red light on the presser foot goes off

Mode 2:

• if the stitching process is ended by no longer moving the fabric, one additional stitch is made depending on the needle position. The sewing computer always stops with the needle up, even if the arrow on the display points down

Holding the Work

•

• hold and guide the taut fabric with both hands abrupt movements of the fabric (slowing down, speeding up respectively) can result in slightly too short or too long stiches

•

• continuous movement of the fabric (no abrupt movements) under the foot will provide best results move the fabric in one direction for best results

Application Example:

BSR With Zig-zag Stitch No. 2

•

• the zig-zag stitch can be used for thread painting or fabric embellishment for example areas can be filled and forms or pictures created

BSR Function Deactivation

• pull out the plug of the BSR presser foot connec-

• tion cable on the sewing computer. The previously selected stitch is active again remove the BSR foot


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151

152

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Programming Screen 154

Selecting Motifs 155

Deleting Motifs 155

Altering Motifs 156

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Personal

Program

Programming Screen With Personal Stitches

Use the Personal Program to design a screen with the stitches you use most.

Whether it is made up of stitches for a certain type of sewing, such as heirloom or garment, or just your favorite practical and decorative stitches or alphabets, this screen will make it easy and quick to sew any project.

When inserting stitches into the Personal Program, variations of all stitches may be entered into the

Personal Program.

Note:

Following alterations may be entered:

•

• stitch width stitch length

•

•

•

•

Needle Position

Thread Tension

Mirror Image

Pattern Extend

•

•

•

Long Stitch

Balance

Pattern Repeat 1 – 9

Programming First Stitch

s elect the zig-zag stitch from the Practical Stitch program (make alterations if necessary)

touch the Stitch Altering Area (light blue)


touch the bar «Add to Personal Program»

• the zig-zag stitch is saved in the Personal

Program (including any alterations), the screen closes

Programming Second Stitch

press the Buttonhole button

select Standard buttonhole (No. 51)


save the stitch as described above

insert further stitches in the same manner

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Selecting Stitches in Personal Program

Activating Personal Program

press the Personal Program button

Personal Screen

•

• in the personal screen the programmed stitches are visible (progressive stitch numbers) when more than 15 stitches are programmed, use arrow to scroll for viewing additional stitches

Deleting Personal Stitches



Personal Program Screen

select the stitch to be deleted



touch the bar «Remove from Personal Program»

Stitch Deleted

•

• the special screen closes the selected stitch is deleted, all remaining stitches will move along to fill the space


155

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Altering Stitches



Personal Program Screen

select the stitch to be altered (e.g. zig-zag)

alter stitch width and length with the external stitch width and stitch length knobs

• the alterations as well as the basic settings are indicated



touch the bar «Save Settings» and all alterations are saved, the special screen closes

Special Screen

•

«Save Settings»: all alterations (stitch length and width, etc.) of the selected stitch are saved

•

«Reset Settings»: all alterations of the selected stitch are reset to basic settings

•

«Add to Personal Program»: a selected stitch

(with possible alterations) is saved in the Personal

Program

•

«Remove from Personal Program»: a selected stitch is deleted from the Personal Program

• touch «ESC» – the screen closes without anything being saved

TIP stitch setting can also be altered permanently in each category.

156


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Programming and Saving

• In general • Stitch combinations

• Opening saved combinations

158

Corrections and Alterations

• Deleting • Inserting stitch combinations

• Sub-dividing combinations

161

Saving and Deleting

Stitches and Stitch

Combinations

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In General

Stitches, letters, and numbers can be combined and stored in the memory system. The sewing computer has a memory system, in which the two memories – sewing and embroidery – can be stored. The storage space is not sub-divided into fixed spaces, i.e. any number of stitch combinations can be stored in the Drawers as long as there is free storage space (capacity) available.

It may well be, however, that not all Drawers can be filled, due to the saving of many stitches or stitch combinations.

The memory is a long term memory, i.e. the contents remain in it until deliberately deleted.

A power cut, or switching off («0») the sewing computer do not affect the saved program.

Programming and Saving

Programming and Saving Stitch Combinations

Programming and Saving Stitches

select Combi Mode

• the Stitch Altering Area appears with its functions


alter stitch length, stitch width, needle position or functions such as mirroring, etc. if necessary

select further stitches

touch the Multifunction button

touch «Save Combination» to save the combination

select the Drawer where you wish to save the stitch combination

• the System Memory Capacity (Free Capacity) is shown in percentage (%) in a bar above the

Drawers screen

158

Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations – Programming and Saving

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Programming and Saving Stitches by Number

select Combi Mode

touch «0–9» button

enter number of desired stitch

touch arrow to delete individual numbers

touch field above the numeric pad to delete all numbers

touch «Add» to select further stitches by number

touch «OK» if selection is complete


touch the function «Save Combination»

select the Drawer where you wish to save the stitch combination

Empty Stitch Altering Area

• if the Combi Mode has already been in use and the sewing computer has not been switched off («0») since, the last programmed or selected stitch combination appears in the Stitch

Altering Area

empty the Stitch Altering Area by deleting combination or open an empty Drawer to program a new combination

Emptying the Stitch Altering Area in Steps

• the stitch above the cursor is deleted

touch the Delete function until the Stitch Altering Area is empty

Emptying the Stitch Altering Area in a Single Step


select «Delete Combination»

touch «Yes» to confirm the message

• the Stitch Altering Area is now empty, and a new stitch combination can be programmed

Note:

This procedure does not affect stitch combinations already saved, which remain intact.


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159

Opening Empty Drawer

touch the «File Drawers» button

•

Drawers screen appears

select an empty Drawer

• the System Memory Capacity (Free Capacity) is shown in percentage (%) in a bar above the Drawers screen

• the Stitch Altering Area is now empty, and a new stitch combination can be programmed

if desired, save the stitch combination

Drawer Content at a Glance

program a stitch combination

• the corresponding stitch combination is visible in the



select «Preview»

• the stitch combination is displayed on screen

• each stitch can be selected directly, e.g. to alter it:

select stitch, SAA appears automatically to alter selected stitch

use the arrows to scroll through the stitch combinations

use the Binocular icon to switch to the Preview screen

(sewing view)

touch «ESC» to close the Preview screen

Opening Saved Combination

Opening a Saved Combination

touch «File Drawers»

• a summary of the saved combinations appears

scroll to the desired Drawer if necessary

touch the desired Drawer

• the saved combination appears in the Stitch Altering Area

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Correcting Stitch Combinations

Deleting the Stitch Last Programmed

touch «Delete»

• the stitch last entered is deleted

Note:

All alterations always affect the area above the cursor.

Deleting a Stitch Within the Combination

use the scroll arrows to move the cursor below the stitch to be deleted, or select the stitch directly

touch «Delete»

•

• the stitch above the cursor is deleted the stitches are automatically recombined

Corrections and Alterations


to activate the desired place, scroll the cursor or select appropriate stitch directly

select new stitch

• the new stitch is inserted after the selected stitch

• to insert a stitch at the very beginning of a combination, move the cursor right to the top using the scroll arrow

select new stitch

• the new stitch is inserted above the cursor

Altering Stitch Combinations

to activate the desired place, scroll the cursor or select the appropriate stitch directly

select desired function (e.g. mirroring)

Note:

Already saved stitch combinations can be altered or corrected in the same way. To save corrections and alterations permanently, the combination must be resaved afterwards.

Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations – Corrections and Alterations

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161

Mirroring Entire Combinations


touch «Mirror Combination»

• the entire combination is mirrored horizontally (left/right)

Deleting Drawer

Sub-dividing Combinations

• a combination can be divided into different parts with the function «Combination Sub-Divider (2)» (e.g. name, street, place, etc.)

sew the first part, the sewing computer stops automatically when reaching the Sub-divider function

reposition the fabric: press the foot control and the next part is sewn, etc.

• when using the «Combination Sub-Divider (1)», only that particular part of the sub-division is sewn where the cursor is placed allowing you to program many stitches in one file, but use the «Combination Sub-Divider (1)» to treat each segment as its own file

Option 1: Overwriting

program new stitch combination


touch the «Save» button (Drawers screen appears)

select the Drawer you wish to overwrite

confirm message with «Yes»

• the new stitch combination is now saved in this Drawer

Option 2: Deleting

touch the button «File Drawers»

• saved combinations appear

touch «Delete»

• a message appears: select the combination you wish to delete

touch desired Drawer

press "Yes" to confirm the appearing message = the combination will be deleted

touch «ESC» to close Drawers screen

162

Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations – Corrections and Alterations

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In General

164

Display

165

Sewing Settings

166

Embroidery Settings

167

Touch (Screen Sensitivity)

169

Customize Favorite Function

Button

170

Information

170

Messages and Audio

Settings

172

Portal Provider Settings

174

Hardware

175

Reset to Factory

175

Setup Program

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In General

The Setup Program allows you to personalize the touch screen to suit your own requirements and preferences. For example, you can change the setting of the thread tension or reprogram the

Favorite Function button on the head frame. After setting the sewing computer to your personal requirements all changes made in the Setup

Program will be saved, even when the sewing computer is turned off («0»). The sewing computer can be reset and returned to the factory settings at any time.

Note:

If stock embroidery designs that came with the sewing computer are deleted, use the enclosed USB stick to reload them to the sewing computer.

Opening Setup Program

press the external Setup button

• menu with Setup options appears

Menu

• the menu lists all features in the sewing computer which can be altered to suit your requirements:

•

•

Display (screen)

Sewing Settings

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

Embroidery Settings

Touch (screen sensitivity)

Customize Favorite Function button

Information

Messages and Audio Settings

Portal Provider Settings

Hardware

Reset to Factory the customized alterations remain saved even when the sewing computer is turned off («0») the alterations can be reprogrammed at any time

Leaving Setup Program

touch «ESC»

• the Setup Program closes


164

To Next Page

touch «To Next Page»

•

• the next screen appears

To Previous Page

touch «To Previous Page» the previous screen appears

Setup Program

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Saving and Closing

touch «OK»

• changes are saved, the screen closes and the menu appears

Closing Screen

touch «ESC»

• the screen display closes, the original settings remain saved and the menu appears

Display



• menu appears

touch «Display»

• the screen «Display Settings» appears

Display Settings

Contrast

touch « + » or « – »

• the contrast of the screen changes

Brightness

touch « + » or « – »

•

•

• the brightness of the screen changes the changes are indicated by the number in the bar and the blue background of the «+» and «-» the «Default» on-screen button returns you to the basic settings

Welcome Screen

touch Text bar

• a screen with a keyboard appears

Text in Welcome Screen

• text for the Welcome screen can be written

•

•

•

•

• the «ABC» on-screen button (upper case) is automatically active (blue) the «abc» on-screen button changes to lower case the «ÄÀÁ», «äàá» and «@#» on-screen buttons activate special characters in the upper and lower case

«1,2,3» activates numbers and mathematical characters the bar below the keyboard is a space bar and produces spaces between the words or letters

• the programmed text appears in the Text bar above the keyboard

by touching this Text bar the programmed text will be completely deleted

by touching the arrow on the right of the Text bar, entered text is deleted from right to left


touch «OK»


Closing Screen

touch «ESC»


Setup Program

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Sewing Settings



• menu appears

touch «Sewing Settings»

• the screen «Sewing Settings 1» appears

Sewing Settings 1

Sewing Light

• when the bar is active (blue) the sewing light will be on continuously when the sewing computer is turned on

• when the bar is inactive (x) the sewing light will not come on when the sewing computer is turned on

Motor Speed

touching « + » or « – » changes the maximum speed (4/4).

It increases or reduces the speed by 10 stitches

•

• the number in the bar reflects the stitches per minute any change of the maximum speed affects all 4 speeds

•

(1/4 – 4/4), i.e. slower or faster at all four levels the «Default» on-screen button returns you to the basic settings

Thread Tension Correction

touching « + » or « – » changes the basic setting (0) of the upper Thread Tension by plus or minus 20%

0 = basic settings (factory settings)

•

•

1 = + 10%

2 = + 20%

-1 = - 10%

-2 = - 20% this correction fine tunes the basic tension setting on your sewing computer, which may be affected by variables such as thread weight, etc.

the number in the bar and the blue background of the « + »

•

• and « – » reflect the changes the «Default» on-screen button returns you to the basic settings the tension alteration affects all stitches and remains saved when the sewing computer is turned off (« 0 »)

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Embroidery Settings



• menu appears

touch «Embroidery Settings»

• the screen «Embroidery Settings 1» appears for adjusting the embroidery hoop

Embroidery Settings 1

Embroidery Settings 2

«Adjust Reference Position» calibrates the needle to the center of the embroidery hoop. Adjusting can only be activated if the embroidery module and the oval embroidery hoop are attached.

It is only necessary to adjust the Reference Position once as the same setting changes will apply to all the hoops.

insert the embroidery template into the hoop

touch «Check»

• the hoop position is read and the needle positioned in the middle (the needle should now be positioned exactly over the center point of the template)

if it is not, adjust with the arrows

touch «OK»

• the adjustment will be saved, the screen display closes and the menu appears


• the screen «Embroidery Settings 2» appears

Motor Speed

• touching « + » or « – » changes the basic settings of the speed by

10 stitches

•

• the number in the bar reflects the stitches per minute any change of the speed affects all 4 speeds (1/4 – 4/4), i.e.

slower or faster at all four levels

Auto Thread Cutter

•

• when the bar is active (blue) the upper thread and bobbin thread are automatically cut when the bar is inactive (x) the Automatic Thread Cutter is off

touching the bar «Auto Thread Cutter» activates or deactivates the function

Thread Tension Correction

touching « + » or « – » changes the basic setting (0) of the upper

Thread Tension by plus or minus 20%

0 = basic settings (factory settings)

1 = + 10%

2 = + 20%

•

•

•

•

-1 = - 10%

-2 = - 20% this correction fine tunes the basic tension setting on your sewing computer, which may be affected by variables such as thread weight, etc.

the number in the bar and the blue background of the « + » and

« – » reflect the changes the «Default» on-screen button returns you to the basic settings the tension alteration affects all motifs and remains saved when the embroidery computer is turned off (« 0 »)

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To Next Page




touch «To Previous Page»



touch «OK»


Closing Screen

touch «ESC»


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Touch (Screen Sensibility)



• menu appears

touch «Touch»

• the screen «Touch Setup» appears

Touch Setup

touch « + » or « – »

• the touch sensitivity changes

•

• the changes are indicated by the number in the bar and the blue background of the «+» and «-» the «Default» on-screen button returns you to the basic settings

after having changed the sensitivity touch the «Calibrate» bar

• a further screen display appears

Touch 2

•

• to activate the new data follow the instructions on the screen an additional screen display appears

Touch 3

• to save the new data follow the instructions on the screen

• the screen «Touch Setup» appears again


touch «OK»


Closing Screen

touch «ESC»


Setup Program

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Customize Favorite Function Button



• menu appears

touch «Customize Favorite Function Button»

• the screen «Customize Favorite Function Button» appears

Information

Customize Favorite Function Button

• the basic setting on the Favorite Function button is «Pattern

Begin», which is visible as active function in the «F» bar

from the on-screen function button summary another desired function can be selected, e.g. «Motor Speed»

•

• the selected function is immediately visible as active function in the «F» bar the programmed function is shown with an «F» in the display


touch «OK»


Closing Screen

touch «ESC»




• menu appears

touch «Information»

• the screen «Software and Language» appears with information on software version and active language

Software Version

• the current version of the sewing computer and the embroidery module (has to be attached to the sewing computer) can be seen

Language

• the active language is displayed


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• the screen «Dealer Information 1» appears

Press the respective gray fields to enter the following dealer-related data:

•

Store name

•

•

•

•

First name

Last name

Street

House number




•

Postal ZIP code

•

•

•

•

Location

Country

Phone number

Mobile number




•

FAX number

•

•

E-mail address

Website


•

•

•

• the screen «Portal Information» appears these three Internet addresses are required and checked by the sewing/embroidery computer when connecting to the «myartista» portal if any of these addresses are changed by BERNI-

NA, the others can be corrected by pressing the respective gray field these Internet addresses can not be used on the personal computer

Note

These three Internet addresses must not be changed in any way unless BERNINA provides new respective data.

Setup Program

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Messages and Audio Settings



• menu appears

touch «Messages and Audio Settings»

• the screen «Messages and Audio Settings Page 1» appears

Messages and Audio Settings Page 1

Audio System

•

•

• with this bar the sound can be activated or deactivated blue background and gray speaker means that the bar is active gray background and red speaker means that the bar is inactive

Test Speaker

• with this on-screen button the speaker function can be checked

touch and release the button

• a sound must be heard to indicate Audio System is active

Volume

touching «+» or «-» changes the volume

• the number in the bar and the blue background of the «+» and

•

«-» reflect the changes the «Default» on-screen button returns you to the basic settings

Selecting Stitch / Selecting Function

• the selection of stitches and functions can be indicated acoustically

touch either the bar «Select Function» or the Sound button for selection of sounds

•

1-6 sound choices will be activated, both bar and Sound button are blue and the choice of selected sounds is indicated in the on-screen Sound button by a number (1-6)

touch the Sound button one or more times and the six possible sounds can be heard (number changes from 1-6)

the sounds can be turned off as follows:

touch the bar «Select Stitch» and «Select Function» one or more times

• the bars will be inactive (gray) and the speaker symbols in the on-screen button «Sound» will be red




• following messages can be turned on or off as well as indicated acoustically with the desired choice of sounds (1-6):

•

•

Upper Thread Control

Lower Thread Control

•

•

Feed Dog Position

Presser Foot Position

•

•

• the messages and choice of sounds can be turned on or off independently (i.e. a message can be turned on without any acoustic sound) blue background means that the bar or button is activated gray background means that the bar or button is deactivated

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• following messages can be turned on or off as well as indicated acoustically with the desired choice of sounds (1-6):

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

Bobbin Winder

Embroidery Finished

Thread Cutter

Threader the messages and choice of sounds can be turned on or off independently (i.e. a message can be turned on without any acoustic sound) blue background means that the bar or button is activated gray background means that the bar or button is deactivated

To Next Page




touch «To Previous Page»

• the previous page appears


touch «OK»


Closing Screen

touch «ESC»


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173

174

Portal Provider Settings



• menu appears

touch «Portal Provider Settings»

• the screen «Portal Provider Settings» appears

Setup Program

Portal Provider Settings

•

• the screen display contains the summary of the set providers

(your provider’s address) up to three different providers can be set - selection of provider may be made by touching the red circle, circle becomes a

touch the bar of the selected provider or «To Next Page»

Note:

For Modem settings see separate Modem instruction manual.

Provider 1

•

• the screen e.g. «Provider 1» appears, the provider settings are displayed the provider settings are made as follows:

select an empty provider space on the screen «Portal Provider

Settings», (e.g. Provider 3)

Provider 3

• the screen «Provider 3» appears

touch the bar «Provider»

Note:

How to establish a connection from the

Modem to a Portal provider see page 193.


the necessary information for this bar can be entered

touch «OK»

•

• the entered information will be saved, the screen display closes and the screen «Portal Provider 3» appears again fill in all bars in this manner


touch «OK»


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Hardware



• menu appears

touch «Hardware»

• the screen «SSID» appears

SSID (Service Set Identifier)

touch SSID bar


enter SSID from your access point

• only necessary with a wireless application

Reset to Factory



• menu appears

touch «Reset to Factory»

• a summary of the screen «Reset to Factory» appears

Reset to Factory

• three choices are possible:

•

•

Sewing

Embroidery

•

All

touch the on-screen button which you want to «Reset to

Factory»


touch «OK»


Closing Screen

touch «ESC»


Note:

If stock embroidery designs that came with the sewing computer are deleted, use the enclosed USB data stick to reload them to the sewing computer.

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Setup Program

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Help

178

Tutorial

179

Creative Consultant

181

Balance

• Balance for practical and decorative stitches

• Balance for sideways motion stitches

183

Cleaning and Maintenance

185

Trouble Shooting

186

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Computer Support

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Help Program

The Help program provides on-screen information on individual stitches and all functions on the screen, eliminating the need to regularly refer to the instruction manual. The information shown corresponds to information in the instruction manual, but is quicker and easier to find electronically.

No matter which screen is displayed, the help feature for stitches and functions of the screen can be opened. Touch «ESC» to return to the previous screen.

Note:

If you press the question mark symbol in sewing or embroidery mode, the motor stops and you can leave your sewing/embroidery computer. When resuming work, simply press any area in the display. This activates the motor and you can resume the sewing. The question mark symbol is now a multifunctional button which enables you to leave your sewing/embroidery computer without actually turning the machine off and on again. It also provides information on stitch patterns, embroidery designs and functions.

Opening Help

touch Help «

?

» on the screen

touch desired stitch or function

Help

Note:

The Help program can be opened at any time without affecting the work at hand.

Help Screen/Stitches the screen offers the following information:

•

•

• name of the stitch suitable fabrics brief listing of main applications

Help Screen/Functions the screen offers the following information:

•

•

• name of the function explanation of the function brief listing of main applications

Text Scrolling

• this symbol indicates that text scrolling on screen can be activated with the stitch width or stitch length knob


touch «ESC»

•

Help is closed


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Opening Tutorial

press external «Tutorial» button

Note:

In computer language, tutorial means self-help.

The Tutorial provides concentrated on-screen information about various aspects of the sewing computer, eliminating the need to refer regularly to the instruction manual.

Subjects

•

Main subjects appear:

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

Important facts about threading the sewing computer

Sewing techniques

Bernina-Stitch-Regulator BSR

Buttonholes

Peripherals

Embroidery module

FHS

Trouble Shooting

•

•

Presser Feet

Needles

touch symbol (e.g. Presser Feet)

Tutorial

•

Presser Feet subjects appear

Select the desired subject (e.g. Change Presser Foot)

•

Information on the desired subject appears

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179

To Previous Page / To Next Page

• with the scroll arrows the previous or next page can be viewed

Back to Subjects

touch the «Home» symbol

• the first screen (Subjects) of Tutorial appears myartista Portal

connect modem or Ethernet card

touch symbol

Modem:

confirm first message with «Yes» and second message with «OK»

• the connection to the myartista Portal is made

Ethernet Card:

• the sewing computer tries to find an active

Internet connection

• is the connection made, the «myartista

Portal» site appears automatically

Video Tutorials

touch the «Video» symbol

• the selected subject is demonstrated clearly by the aid of a video sequence

Note:

The Tutorial program can be opened at any time without affecting the work at hand.


touch «ESC»

•

Tutorial is closed


Text Scrolling

• this symbol indicates that text scrolling on screen can be resumed with the stitch width or stitch length knob

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Opening Creative Consultant

press external Creative

Consultant button

The Creative Consultant provides information and help for a variety of sewing needs. After entering the type of fabric and technique you wish to use, the Creative Consultant provides suggestions regarding needles, presser feet, feed dog, stabilizers, presser foot pressure, etc.

The suggested presser feet are not necessarily standard with the sewing computer but may be special accessories which can be obtained from your BERNINA dealer.

The Creative Consultant automatically sets the correct settings for the type of work selected:

•

•

•

•

Thread Tension stitch width stitch length

Balance

•

•

•

Needle Position

Needle Stop up/down the maximum sewing speed is adjusted according to the selected technique

Creative Consultant

Fabric Menu

• three columns of fabric types are displayed:

• lightweight fabrics

•

•

• mediumweight fabrics

• heavyweight fabrics the most commonly used fabrics are listed in the three columns if the fabric you wish to use is not listed, select a similar type of fabric

touch to select the desired fabric (e.g. jersey)

Techniques Menu

• several common sewing techniques appear on-screen:

Seaming Overcasting Edgestitching

Blind hem Buttonhole Visible Zipper

Invisible zipper Decorative work

(decorative stitches)

Machine quilting

Freemotion Hemstitching Appliqué machine quilting

Sideways motion patterns

touch to select the desired technique (e.g. buttonhole)

if the technique you want to use is not listed, select a similar

• technique if a technique for the selected fabric is not recommended, the field becomes inactive (light gray)

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181

Information, Special Suggestions

• the third screen displays settings and suggestions for the type

• of fabric and technique you have chosen

•

Presser foot number(s)

•

•

Needle (size and type)

Presser foot pressure

•

•

Stabilizer needed

Feed dog position

•

Buttonhole cord (gimp) there may be several suggestions for the «Presser Foot» and

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

•

«Needle» type the most suitable presser foot for the chosen technique is shown first further recommended presser feet are shown in brackets some presser feet suggested may be special accessories which are particularly suitable for the chosen technique

(they may not be standard accessories, but can be purchased separately from your authorized BERNINA dealer) select the presser foot and needle according to your particular wishes and preferences a stabilizer will be suggested if it is required to suit the technique and fabric provides a reminder to use «Buttonhole Cord» (gimp) if necessary to reinforce a buttonhole further notes can be found under «Recommendation»

«Tutorial Connections»: with these functions detailed information for further subjects can be opened directly in the Tutorial

«Stitches»: programmed and alternative stitches with notes are listed here

To Previous Page / To Next Page

• with the scroll arrows the previous or next page can be viewed

Programmed Stitch

touch «OK»

• the appropriate screen with the programmed stitch appears automatically

Back to Fabric Menu

touch the «Home» symbol

• the first screen (Fabric Menu) of

Creative Consultant appears


touch «ESC»

•

Creative Consultant is closed

• the previous screen appears myartista Portal

connect Modem or Ethernet Card

touch symbol

Modem:

confirm first message with «Yes»

• and second message with «OK» the connection to the myartista

Portal is made

Ethernet Card:

•

• the sewing/embroidery computer tries to find an active Internet connection is the connection made, the

«myartista Portal» site appears automatically

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Text Scrolling

• this symbol indicates that text scrolling on screen can be resumed with the stitch width or stitch length knob

Note:

The Creative Consultant program can be opened at any time without affecting the work at hand.

All stitches are checked and fully adjusted before the sewing computer leaves the factory.

Different fabrics, threads, stabilizers and interfacings can affect programmed stitches so that they are not sewn out properly.

These effects can be corrected with the electronic Balance so that the stitch formation can be adjusted where necessary to suit the fabric.

Balance for Practical and Decorative Stitches 9mm

When sewing soft fabrics such as jersey or tricot, the fabric tends to stretch under the presser foot which also stretches the stitch being sewn. For example, the Honeycomb stitch opens up and is too long.

Thicker fabrics might cause the stitch to overlap, making it too short. Correcting with the Balance is very easy.

Opening Balance

touch the function «Balance»

Balance

Balance Screen

•

• the special Balance screen opens in the left portion of the screen the stitch is displayed in its

•

• original form in the right portion of the screen the alterations made are directly visible the corrections can be made while sewing (with opened screen)

Corrections

• the stitch sewn on the fabric (e.g. the Honeycomb stitch) opens up and it does not look correct:

turn the stitch length knob (displayed by a blue symbol on the screen) until the stitch in the right portion of the screen is identical with the stitch on the fabric

Saving and Closing Screen

touch «OK»

• the corrections will be saved and the Balance screen will close

Deleting Corrections

touch «Reset»

• the corrections of the selected stitches will be deleted

Closing Screen

touch «ESC»

• the Balance screen closes; returns to previous screen

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183

Balance for Sideways Motion Stitches

Fabric, thread, stabilizers and interfacings can affect sideways motion stitches, so correcting with the

Balance will sometimes be necessary.

Opening Balance

touch the function button «Balance»

Balance Screen

•

•

• the special Balance screen opens in the left portion of the screen the stitch is displayed in its original form in the right portion of the screen the alterations made are

• directly visible the corrections can be made while sewing (with opened screen)

The stitch sewn on the fabric (e.g. stitch No. 201) is vertically and horizontally distorted:

Vertical Corrections

turn the stitch length knob (displayed by a blue symbol on the screen) until the stitch on the right portion of the screen is identical with the stitch on the fabric

Horizontal Corrections

turn the stitch width knob (displayed by a blue symbol on the screen) until the stitch on the right portion of the screen is identical with the stitch on the fabric

Saving and Closing Screen

touch «OK»

• the corrections will be saved and the Balance screen will close

Closing Screen

touch «ESC»

• the Balance screen closes; returns to previous screen

Deleting Corrections

touch «Reset»

• the corrections of the selected stitches will be deleted

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!

Cleaning

If the sewing computer is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a warm room about 1 hour before use.


Cleaning the Stitch Plate Area

Periodically remove thread lint and remnants which collect under the stitch plate and the hook.

turn power switch to «0» (off) and pull out plug from electric outlet

remove presser foot and needle

open the free arm cover

press the stitch plate down at the back right corner

lift and remove stitch plate

clean the area with the lint brush

replace the stitch plate

Cleaning the Screen

wipe with a soft, damp cloth

Note:

BERNINA is committed to the protection of the environment. We strive to minimize the environmental impact of our products by continuously improving product design and our technology of manufacturing .

At end of life please dispose of this product in an environmentally responsible way according to the national directives.

Do not throw away this product with your household waste. In case of doubt, please contact your dealer.

Cleaning and Maintenance

Cleaning the Hook


remove the bobbin case

clean the hook race using the brush provided or a cotton swab. The use of any sharp instrument could damage the hook

insert the bobbin case

Cleaning the Sewing Computer

wipe with a soft, damp cloth

if very soiled, wipe with a solution of water and a few drops of liquid soap on a damp (not wet) cloth

Lubricating


squeeze 1 drop of oil into the hook race

run the sewing computer for a short time without thread to prevent oil soiling your work

Important:

Never use alcohol or solvents of any kind to clean the sewing computer!

Replacing the Sewing Light

Contrary to an ordinary bulb, the CFL sewing light has a better illumination and a longer life.

Caution:

Please note that a defective CFL sewing light must ONLY be replaced by an authorized technician. The sewing computer must be brought to an authorized BERNINA dealer!

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185

Prevention and Remedy of Failures

In most cases you will be able to identify and remedy faults by checking the following.

Check whether:

•

•

•

•

•

• the upper and lower threads are threaded correctly the needle is inserted as far up as possible with the flat side of the shank to the back the needle size is correct – check the needle/ thread chart on page 18 the sewing computer is clean – brush out any thread lint the hook race is clean any threads are trapped between the tension discs or under the bobbin case spring

Trouble Shooting

Upper Thread Breaks

Possible Faults:

• upper thread tension is too tight

• needle is of inferior quality; purchase needles at your authorized BERNINA dealer

•

•

• needle has been inserted incorrectly – the flat side of the shank must be to the back needle is bent or blunt poor quality, knotted, old or dried out thread has been used

Possible Solutions:

•

• use the correct spool disc stitch plate hole or hook tip damaged – take your sewing computer to your BERNINA dealer

Lower Thread Breaks

• the lower thread tension is too tight

•

•

• the bobbin is jammed in the bobbin case:

•

Remove and replace the bobbin the hole in the stitch plate has been damaged by the needle:

• this must be polished by an authorized

BERNINA service technician the needle is blunt or bent

Calibration of the Display

To open the calibration screen directly, proceed as follows:

• press both needle position buttons on the body

•

•

• simultaneously and keep them pressed turn on the sewing and embroidery computer as soon as the calibration screen is opened, release the two buttons

Calibration of the Display see page 169

Skipped Stitches

•

• wrong needles used:

• use only 130/705H system

Needle is blunt, bent or incorrectly inserted:

•

Push right to the top when inserting

•

•

• needle is of inferior quality or badly polished the needle point does not suit the fabric being sewn; if necessary, use a ball point for knitted fabrics and a cutting point for hard leather for narrower stitches use a stitch plate with smaller stitch plate hole (5.5mm, optional accessory)

Needle Breaks

•

• needle clamp screw loose fabric pulled to the front instead of behind the presser foot

•

• when sewing over thick area, the fabric was pushed with the needle still in the fabric; use

Jeans foot No. 18 for more information regarding Needle see page 19

Faulty Stitching

• remnants of thread between the tension discs:

•

•

•

•

• pull folded, thin fabric (do not use fabric edge) between the tension discs and clean them by moving the fabric forwards and backwards on the left and right side of the thread tension remove remnants of thread under the bobbin case spring incorrect threading. Check upper and lower threads use the correct spool disc clean and lubricate hook (use only original oiler; see Cleaning and Lubricating page 185)

Cannot Sew Thick Fabric

•

• needle/thread combination is not correct (the thread is too thick for the inserted needle) use height compensating tool, when sewing over a thick seam

Sewing Computer Fails to Run or Runs Slowly

• plug not fully inserted

•

•

• turn power switch off («0») sewing computer has been standing in a cold room restart sewing computer

Sewing Computer Sews in Reverse

•

Continuous Reverse Sewing function is activated

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Defective Sewing Light

• the sewing computer must be brought to a local

BERNINA dealer

Problems With Peripherals

•

• plug not completely inserted restart sewing computer

Lower Thread Indicator Sensor

•

•

• bobbin cover is not closed not activated in the Setup Program remove any thread lint and remnants from the bobbin case

Upper Thread Indicator Sensor

• not activated in the Setup Program

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187

Messages

In special cases messages may appear on the screen.

They serve as a reminder, warning, or confirmation of selected applications and functions.

Messages

•

Security Program active.

Please deactivate before sewing.

Notes

Deactivate if required.

•

This number is not available in the sewing computer! Put in another stitch number.

•

Combi Mode does not support this pattern!

Inactive stitch patterns (gray stitch number) can not be selected in Combination mode. The sewing/embroidery computer does not respond when selecting one of those stitch patterns.

•

Please switch feed dog to sewing position. Press the button «Drop feed dog». The message disappears automatically if the feed dog position was changed.

Check upper and/or lower thread.

•

Please check the upper and lower thread for thread breakage or empty bobbin.

•

Please check lower thread. Please clean bobbin area of lint or stray thread. If bobbin is empty, please rewind bobbin.

•

Please lower presser foot.

Follow the instructions on the screen.

•

•

Please raise the presser foot.

For easier threading it is recommended that the presser foot is lowered.

The message disappears automatically if the presser foot was lowered.

The message disappears automatically if the presser foot was raised.

Lower presser foot.

•

Needle will penetrate stitch plate or presser foot.

Check the settings in the Security screen.

•

The sewing/embroidery computer is not functioning Contact your BERNINA dealer to solve the correctly. Please contact your BERNINA dealer. problem.

•

During start-up an error occurred. Please restart the . Turn sewing/embroidery computer off and on sewing/embroidery computer. If the problem persists again.

please contact your BERNINA dealer.

•

The BERNINA Modem cannot be identified.

Please insert the Modem and try again.

•

Cannot dial, please check the phone line and then dial number.

The modem has not been recognised.

Disconnect and reconnect modem.

Check the settings in the Setup Program and try again.

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Messages

•

The authentication for the provider failed.

Please check the username and the password.

Notes


•

The communication with the provider was interrupted. Connecting problems occurred. Try to enter

Please try later or use another provider.

another provider if possible, or try again.

•

An unknown error occurred with the Modem.

Please try again.

Remove modem, then reconnect.

•

You cannot save or delete files on the myartista Portal.

The «myartista» portal provides tips and news.

•

•

A problem occurred in communicating with the myartista Portal. Please try again.

To keep your sewing/embroidery computer performing at its best, it’s time to complete the following tasks. Remove thread and lint from beneath the stitch plate, as well as from the feed dog area. These instructions can be found on page 185 of the manual.

Try to connect to the «myartista» portal again.

Remove and reconnect modem if necessary.

This notification will appear after approx.

180,000 stitches. After cleaning/oiling clear the display by touching «OK». The display can be cleared temporarily by touching «ESC», but will appear again when restarting the sewing computer. After clearing with «ESC» for the third time, the cleaning notification will only appear again after a further approx.

180,000 stitches.

•

It’s time for your regular service check.

Please contact your BERNINA dealer for an appointment.

The sewing computer must be taken for a service to a BERNINA dealer.

The notification will appear after approx.

2,000,000 stitches. If the service was done bythe BERNINA dealer, the stitch counter will be on «0» again and the display does not appear anymore. The display can be cleared temporarily by touching «ESC», but will appear again when restarting the sewing computer.

After clearing with «ESC» for the third time, the notification will appear again at approx.

4,000,000 stitches.

•

You have opted not to take your sewing/embroidery Flawless functioning of the sewing/embroidery computer to your BERNINA dealer for its service check. This message will not appear until it’s time for the next regular service.

computer can not be guaranteed if the servicing is not carried out at the recommended regular intervals.

•

Please insert USB data stick that includes the video-film tutorials and press «OK».

•

Main Motor failed. Please check hook system.

Connect the USB data stick to sewing/ embroidery computer that includes video-film tutorials on various sewing techniques and topics.

Open the bobbin cover. Remove any thread lint from the hook area/bobbin case.

Sewing and Sewing Computer Support – Messages

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189

190

Sewing and Sewing Computer Support – Messages

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BERNINA Computer System

192

Peripherals

192

Connecting Peripherals

194

Connecting

Peripherals

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BERNINA Computer System

Connect peripherals (special accessories) to turn your artista 730 embroidery computer into an embroidery computer system, and take your hobby to unsuspected heights of creativity.

In addition to a direct connection with themyartista

Portal (information source) which takesyou to the

Portal site specially created for theembroidery computer, it is also possible, forinstance, to watch additional video tutorials froma BERNINA USB Stick, or to turn your sewingcomputer into an embroidery computer byconnecting the embroidery module.

Ask your BERNINA dealer for more information.

Peripherals

The following external devices can be connected to the artista 730 sewing computer:

• embroidery module

•

•

BERNINA Modem

BERNINA Ethernet Card

•

BERNINA-USB Stick

Embroidery Module

The embroidery module is a great addition to the sewing computer.

It provides unlimited scope for turning your creative ideas into reality.

Note:

All peripherals are special accessories, depending on country. Ask your BERNINA dealer for information!

Note:

Please note that the back section of this manual contains user instructions for the embroidery computer.

Modem / Ethernet Card

(for access to myartista Portal)

The BERNINA Modem or Ethernet Card enables direct access to the myartista Portal (information source) where the special Portal pages, programmed for the sewing computer alone, can be called up onto the artista 730 screen.

192

Connecting Peripherals

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Connecting via Modem

connect Modem

touch «Portal»

confirm message about connecting with «Yes»

when the connection to the Provider is made, then confirm the message that appears with «OK»

• an overview of the myartista Portal site appears

select desired page

Connecting via Ethernet Card

connect Ethernet Card

touch «Portal»

• the sewing computer tries to find an active Internet connection

• is the connection made, the «myartista Portal» site appears automatically

The content of the myartista Portal is continuously updated.

Note:

The BERNINA-Modem or the BERNINA-Ethernet Card includes user instructions!

Tutorial USB Stick

Open and view tutorial video-films from the Tutorial USB data stick on your sewing computer's screen.

When this function is visible in the toolbar on a selected Tutorial page, the application described can be viewed in a Video Tutorial.

touch symbol

• if the desired Video Tutorial is not in the sewing computer, the message shown on the left appears

connect Tutorial USB Stick

touch «OK» and the Video Tutorial will start

touch «ESC» and the Video Tutorial screen closes

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193

Connecting Peripherals (Sewing Computer Compatible)


plug external device into socket provided on the right hand side of sewing computer (look for symbol)

1

3

2

Caution:

You must only use BERNINA external devices with the BERNINA artista 730 sewing computer.

Ask your BERNINA dealer!

1 BERNINA Modem

2 BERNINA USB Stick

3 BERNINA embroidery module

Instructional/Presentations CD-ROM

(for your PC)

This BERNINA CD-ROM is the presentation and instructional tool that takes you on a virtual journey around the highlights of the new BERNINA artista 730 sewing and embroidery system.

Please insert it into your PC and enjoy using it to learn all about your artista 730.

194


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Embroidery – Content

The Embroidery Computer

195–214

Important Embroidery Information

215–222

Embroidery

223–246

Saving and Deleting Motifs

247–252

Embroidery Support

253–258

Peripherals and Accessories

259–264

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Setting up the Embroidery

Computer

• Details • Standard accessories

• Special accessories

196

Attaching the Embroidery

Module

• Attaching the embroidery module to the sewing computer • Protecting the embroidery computer from dust

• Connecting the adapter for free arm embroidery

199

General Operating

Instructions

• Preparing embroidery computer for embroidery • Threading upper and bobbin thread

201

Selecting Embroidery Motifs

• Welcome screen • Embroidery motifs from the embroidery computer

• Embroidery motifs from an embroidery card • Embroidery motifs from a CD-ROM • Embroidery motifs from the myartista Portal

202

Starting to Embroider

• Selecting the embroidery hoop

• Attaching the embroidery hoop

• Embroidering motifs

204

On-screen Functions and

Displays

• Selection menu • Common functions and displays of Design Menu Edit 1 and

Edit 2 • Design Menu Edit 1

• Design Menu Edit 2

• Embroidery Menu (Ready)

206

External Functions

213

The Embroidery

Computer

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Details

1

2

3

4

6

Front view

Setting up the Embroidery

Computer

5

1

8

8

7

Back view

Note:

The side view (handwheel) of the sewing and embroidery computer with the connecting slot for embroidery cards and Modem, and the cable connections are shown on page 9 of the sewing computer instruction manual.

7

8

5

6

3

4

1

2

Embroidery surface

Embroidery arm

Embroidery hoop connection

Accessory box

Connecting lug right

Connecting lug center

Sewing computer connecting cable

Cable holder

196

The Embroidery Computer – Setting up the Embroidery Computer

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Standard Accessories*

Large oval embroidery hoop

(145x255mm) Template for large oval embroidery hoop

VAR. 00 for a730

Medium embroidery hoop

(100x130mm) Template for medium embroidery hoop

Small embroidery hoop (72x50mm)

(for normal use and free arm embroidery). Blue template for normal embroidery. Red template for free arm embroidery

Adapter for free arm embroidery Embroidery needle range

Embroidery presser foot No. 26. Net for upper thread spools - pull over upper thread spool for even spoling

Embroidery bobbin case BERNINA Personal USB

Memory Stick

Soft cover with pocket

* can vary from market to market

USB connecting cable for PC embroidery software

Embroidery software

Editor Lite


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197

Special (Optional) Accessories*

Suitcase system for sewing computer and embroidery module

Embroidery Mega-Hoop (150x400mm)

Template for Mega-Hoop

VAR. 00 for a730

Straight stitch plate

BERNINA embroidery cards

OESD Embroidery motif Stick BERNINA Modem BERNINA embroidery cards / Magic Box

BERNINA artista software Ethernet Card

198


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Multi Spool holder

* can vary from market to market

Attaching the Module to the Sewing Computer

Attaching the Module to the Sewing

Computer

place the module on the sewing computer behind the free arm

push the module from the left towards the sewing computer so that the connecting lugs engage in the base plate

Releasing the Cable

• the cable connects the module to the sewing computer

pull the cable out of the holder on the back of the module

Attaching the

Embroidery Module

Connecting the Cable

plug with flat side to the front

insert the plug into the socket on the right hand side of the sewing computer (look for symbol)

Releasing the Cable

pull out the plug

Storing the Cable on the Module

insert the cable into both cable holders

press cable gently to secure

Removing the Module

grip the back right corner to lift the module and remove to the left

Caution!

When connecting the embroidery module and/or the free-arm adapter, attention must be paid that all items are on a flat and even surface!

Caution!

Always separate the module and sewing computer for transportation.

Never transport them attached.

The Embroidery Computer – Attaching the Embroidery Module

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199

Connecting the Adapter for Free Arm Embroidery

The adapter is used for embroidering tubular items

(sleeves, trousers, infant items, socks, etc.) on the free arm of the sewing computer.

Attaching the Adapter to the Sewing Computer

push the adapter behind the free arm towards the sewing computer so that the connecting lugs engage in the base plate of the sewing computer

Attaching the Module to the Adapter

place the module on the adapter with the front edge of the module as close as possible to the

L-shaped guide on the adapter

push the module towards the guide from the left until the connecting lugs engage in the base plate of the adapter

Free Arm Embroidery Hoop

• the small, oval embroidery hoop is specially designed for free arm embroidery

Caution!

Only the small hoop can be used for free arm embroidery.

Removing the Adapter

remove the module from the adapter

the rear right corner of the adapter is designed to be used as a grip

hold the adapter with this grip and remove from the base plate of the sewing computer

200

The Embroidery Computer – Attaching the Embroidery Module

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Preparing the Embroidery Computer for Embroidery

Embroidery Presser Foot

No. 26

attach the Embroidery presser foot No. 26

raise the presser foot so that the embroidery hoop can be attached

Needles for Embroidery

raise the needle so that the embroidery hoop can be attached

Lower the Feed Dog

press the button on the right side of the sewing computer to lower the feed dog

• for more information on Needles see pages 17-19

•••••••••••

General Operating

Instructions

Straight Stitch Plate (optional accessory)

• the straight stitch plate has a small needle hole. The needle insertion points (upper and lower thread stitching) are limited, which produces a better embroidery result

remove the standard stitch plate and replace it with the straight stitch plate

• for more information on Stitch Plates see page 17

•••••••••••••

Threading Upper and Bobbin Thread

Threading the Upper Thread

attach foam pad and place the upper thread spool

when using Rayon or slippery embroidery threads, slip the net over the upper thread spool

• this prevents the upper thread from slipping and gives an even thread feed

Threading the Bobbin Thread

for embroidery, thread the bobbin thread through the pigtail tensioner of the embroidery bobbin case

Note:

Lower thread indicator sensor will only work when the bobbin cover is closed, after inserting the embroidery bobbin case.

(Sensor has to be activated in the Setup Program.)

TIP

When using metallic or specialty threads, using the vertical spool pin and the supplementary thread guide

(special accessory) may also help avoid problems.

Note:

While embroidering the bobbin can also be wound, just like in sewing (see page 13).

The Embroidery Computer – General Operating Instructions

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201

Switching the Embroidery Computer on

The artista embroidery system is operated with a combination of external buttons and knobs and a touch screen.

turn power switch to «1» (on)

Welcome Screen

• after turning the embroidery computer on, the Welcome screen appears for a few seconds

• a message appears after the

Welcome screen

to close the message touch «OK»

Note:

The Welcome screen can be personalized in the Setup Program.

Selecting Embroidery

Motifs

Selection Menu

• the Selection menu offers different sources to select motifs

Embroidery Motifs from the Embroidery Computer

«Embroidery Computer» On-screen Button

touch «Embroidery Computer» in the Selection menu

• built-in embroidery motifs can be selected with the on-screen buttons «Alphabets», «Motifs» and «My Designs»

Selecting Alphabets

touch «Alphabets» in the Selection menu

• the different alphabets are visible on the display

select one of the alphabets


• for more information on Lettering see page 234

••••••••••••

Selecting Motifs

touch «Motifs» in the Selection menu

• the motifs appear in color on the display

select a motif by touching the appropriate on-screen button

Selecting My Designs

touch «My Designs» in the Selection menu

• the saved personal motifs appear in color on the display


202

The Embroidery Computer – Selecting Embroidery Motifs

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Embroidery Motifs from an Embroidery Card

«Embroidery Card» On-screen Button

touch «Embroidery Card»

• the motifs of the embroidery design card (optional accessory) appear in color on the display (provided that a card is inserted)


• for more information on Embroidery Cards see page 263

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

Embroidery Motifs from an USB Stick

«USB Stick» On-screen Button

touch «USB Stick»

• the motifs on the USB stick (special accessory) appear on the screen in colour (provided that the USB stick is actually connected)


Embroidery Motifs from myartista Portal

«Portal» On-screen Button

touch «Portal»

• a special screen appears for the Modem connection (provided that the Modem is connected and you are connected to your service provider)

•

• if an Ethernet card (special accessory) is connected, the connection is made directly as soon as the Modem (optional) is connected, the motifs of the myartista Portal (information source) appear on the display


• for more information on the myartista Portal see page 260

••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

The Embroidery Computer – Selecting Embroidery Motifs

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203

Selecting the Embroidery Hoop

Screen Edit 1

select an embroidery motif from the various choices of motifs

• the screen «Edit 1» appears

•

• the selected embroidery motif is shown in the most appropriate (smallest possible) hoop the «Hoop» on-screen button shows which hoop should be attached

attach the recommended hoop

Note:

The last selected embroidery motif is always positioned in the center of the hoop.

Attaching the Embroidery Hoop

Raising Needle and Embroidery Presser Foot

raise needle and embroidery presser foot

hold the hoop with the right side of the fabric up and the attaching mechanism to the left

Starting to

Embroider

Attaching the Hoop

pass the hoop under the embroidery presser foot

squeeze the ends of the attaching mechanism on the side of the hoop

position the center points of the hoop (small attachment clamps) over the bracket of the embroidery arm

push the hoop down until it engages

release the attaching mechanism of the hoop

Removing the Hoop

press both ends on the hoop attaching mechanism towards each other

pull up to remove the hoop

Embroidering Motifs

touch «OK» in the screen Edit 1 or press the

Quick Reverse button on head frame

• embroidery computer moves to check if hoop is attached

Embroidery Menu (Ready)

• the Embroidery menu (Ready) opens with the

• embroidery motif the embroidery motif is ready to be embroidered

204

The Embroidery Computer – Starting to Embroider

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Starting to Embroider With the Quick Reverse

Button on Head Frame


keep the Quick Reverse button on the head frame depressed

• until the embriodery computer starts the embroidery computer will sew approximately 6 stitches and stop automatically


cut the thread tail at the beginning of motif


press the Quick Reverse button to resume embroidering

Starting to Embroider With Foot Control


press the foot control

• the embroidery computer will stop automatically after approx.

6 stitches

release the foot control


cut the thread tail at the beginning of motif


when embroidering using the foot control, it must continuously be pressed

Embroidery Screen

• after starting to embroider the Embroidery screen appears

Interrupting Embroidery

when the embroidery computer is embroidering, press Quick

Reverse button on head frame or tap the foot control lightly

• the embroidery computer will stop immediately

Completing the Color

lower the presser foot again

press Quick Reverse button or the foot control again

• the embroidery computer embroiders all the sections in the

• color activated the embroidery computer stops automatically when complete

•

•

• both threads are automatically cut with the Automatic Thread

Cutter message appears “Color finished attach new thread” acknowledge by touching «OK»

Changing Color

• the embroidery computer is automatically ready to embroider the next color

change color of the upper thread accordingly

embroider with the new color as described above

Cutting Thread Ends After Embroidery


remove the embroidery hoop from the embroidery arm

cut away any remaining excess threads and connecting threads

take care that the bobbin thread is not cut too closely to the stitch plate when removing the embroidery hoop

The Embroidery Computer – Starting to Embroider

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205

Selection Menu

After turning on the embroidery computer or changing from

Sewing to Embroidery Mode, the Selection menu appears. This happens when a motif is selected or combined with an existing motif.

Return to Selection Menu

• this function appears after selecting one of the following functions: «Alphabets», «Motifs» or «My Design»

touch symbol

•

Selection menu appears

On-screen Functions and Displays

Scroll Up


• the screen content scrolls up to show more options

touch the symbol continuously to scroll quickly

«?» (Help) (double function)

Question/Help about a function:

touch symbol and select a function

• a description of the selected function appears

close with «ESC»

Question/Help about a motif:

touch symbol and select a motif

• a special screen appears which shows the following information on the respective motif:

• name and motif format

• width, height, embroidery time, stitch count and color number (can vary according to motif)

from this screen the motif can be opened or deleted directly (or with

«ESC» back to the Selection menu)

Note:

If you press the question mark the machine is «locked». If you touch the screen (anywhere) the machine will sew again.

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The Embroidery Computer – On-screen Functions and Displays

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Scroll Down


• the screen content scrolls down to show more options

touch the symbol continuously to scroll quickly

Closing Special Applications

• this function appears if changing from screen Edit 1 back to the Selection menu

touch symbol

• the special application closes


Spinning Spool

• the spinning spool shows that the embroidery computer is calculating

• no operations are possible during the calculation process

Common Functions and Displays of Screens

Edit 1 and Edit 2

Screen Edit 1

After selecting a motif the screen Edit 1 appears. In this menu for example new motifs can be selected or combinations made by adding or duplicating.

Screen Edit 2

The screen Edit 1 has a sub menu called Edit 2 which is used to alter motifs (e.g. Rescale Motif

Proportionally, Mirror Image, Rotate Motif, etc.).

Select Hoop

• display of the most appropriate hoop for the selected motif

touch on-screen button

• the display «Select Hoop» appears

• each hoop size is displayed with maximum stitch field in mm

Possible Hoop Selections (display «Select Hoop»)

select hoop (Small, Medium, Large Oval or Mega)

• the display closes and the selected hoop is visible on the

«Hoop» on-screen button

press «Check Module» to calibrate the embroidery module

(travelling to the reference points). The embroidery hoop must not be attached when calibrating!

the display can be closed by touching the «ESC» on-screen button, without selecting a hoop

Check Motif Information

touch symbol

•

• the hoop moves vertically so that the size of the attached hoop may be read in the embroidery computer if only the hoop should be read, touch «Cancel»

• motif stitching area is read next with 4 stops

•

• lower left lower right

•

• upper right upper left

acknowledge each stop with «OK»

•

• attached hoop is displayed if no hoop or a too small hoop is attached, an error message will appear

touch symbol

•

• a screen appears which shows the following information on the activated motif:

• width, height, embroidery time, color number and stitch count, thread colors and thread brand because of the complete overview on colors needed

(scroll if necessary), the threads can be laid out ready before beginning embroidery

Motif Size

• display of motif width and height in mm

Motif Center

touch symbol

•

• the center of the motif is displayed by the cursor the hoop will be moved until the needle is in the center of the motif

touch symbol again

• on the display the first stitch of the motif will be marked again by the cursor

Embroidery Time

• display in minutes of the total embroidery time of the motif selected

Color Numbers

• display of the motif color numbers

touch symbol

• the Color Motif display appears

(the display closes by touching the symbol again)


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207

Color Motif Display

the color sequence can be scrolled with the arrows

• the display of the selected color is indicated in the Color Information bar as well as on the screen

touch the Color Information bar

• the screen «Change Color/Brand to» appears

• the current thread color or brand can be changed

• for more information on Changing the Current

Thread Color see page 240

•••••••••••••••

Zoom

touch symbol

• displays the motif enlarged by one step (zoomed in)

touch symbol a second time

• displays the motif enlarged by a further step

touch symbol «Scroll Zoomed Motif»

with the stitch width or stitch lenght knob the motif can be scrolled to view

touch symbol a third time

• reverts motif back to original size

Show Grid

touch symbol

• a large cross hair indicates the hoop center

touch symbol again

• because the grid now visible the motif can be positioned much better

touch symbol again and the grid is switched off

Retrieve

• this function appears only when combining designs

touch symbol

•

•

• switches between motifs when combining designs active motif is shown in color depending on how many times the function was touched, a motif or motif combination is shown active

«?» (Help)


• the explanation of the selected function appears

close with «ESC»


touch «OK»

• the display changes from the screen

•

Edit 1 or Edit 2 to Embroidery menu

(Ready) the motif is ready for embroidery

Screen Edit 1

New Motif

touch «New Motif»

•


select new motif or close display with «ESC»

Add Motif

touch «Add Motif»

•


select new motif or lettering of your choice or

• close display with «ESC» motif is added to motif on screen

Duplicate Motif

touch «Duplicate»

• the selected motif on screen will be duplicated automatically

Delete

• this function only appears when combining designs

touch symbol

• deletes the activated motif, the next one appears in color

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Save

touch symbol

• the “Save” screen appears

• for more information on Saving see pages

248-251

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

Screen Edit 2

To Next Page - Edit 2

touch symbol

• the screen Edit 1 changes to the screen

Edit 2

Rotate Motif

Move Motif

touch symbol

• the purple knob icon for operating the stitch width knob appears

to rotate the motif clockwise, turn stitch width knob clockwise

to rotate the motif counter clockwise, turn the stitch width knob counter clockwise

• display of the position in degrees (°)

to reactivate the default setting (0°/360°) touch the purple knob icon

touch «rotate motif» several times and rotate motif clockwise in 90° steps

(0°/90°/180°/270°/360°)

touch symbol

• the purple knob icons for operating the stitch width and length knob appear

to move the motif horizontally, turn the stitch width knob - to move right turn knob clockwise

- to move left turn knob counter clockwise

to move the motif vertically, turn the stitch

• length knob - to move up, turn knob counter clockwise - to move down, turn knob clockwise in the purple knob icon the alteration is displayed in 1/10 millimeter (mm)

to move the motif diagonally turn the stitch width and length knob (the number in both purple knob icon is the same)

to re-center the motif touch the purple knob icon or touch «Move Motif» again

touch «Move Motif» twice and a duplicated motif is centered

Rescale Motif Height or Width

touch symbol

• the purple knob icons for operating the stitch width and length knob appear

to adjust the width of the motif (horizontally), turn stitch width knob clockwise to increase width and counter clockwise to decrease width

to adjust the height of the motif (vertically), turn stitch length knob clockwise to increase height and counter clockwise to decrease height

• display of the adjustment in percent (%)

to reactivate the default setting (100%) of the motif touch the purple knob icon

Rescale Motif Proportionally

touch symbol

• the purple knob icon for operating the stitch width knob appears

to enlarge the motif turn stitch width knob clockwise

to reduce the motif turn stitch width knob

• counter clockwise display of the alteration in percent (%)

to reactivate the default setting (100%) of the motif touch the purple knob icon

Horizontal Mirror Image (left/right)

touch symbol

• the motif will be mirrored vertically

(left/right)

Vertical Mirror Image

(up/down)

touch symbol

• the motif will be mirrored horizontally

(up/down)


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209

Motif Properties Letter Manipulation

•

• with the Motif Properties function the following is possible:

• altering the stitch density of stitch types

•

Pull Compensation: adjusting excessive spacing/overlap of motif

•

Run Length: altering outline length

touch symbol a special display appears

touch symbol

• a special display appears

alter stitch density (satin stitch, step stitch, decorative stitch fills (Fancy Fill)

•

• touching « + » increases the stitch density touching « » reduces the stitch density

• display of the alteration in percent (%)

adjusting Pull Compensation

• touching « + » increases the Pull Compensation value to decrease excessive spacing between

• objects and/or outlines caused by the push and pull effect of fill stitches touching « – » decreases the Pull Compensation value to eliminate excessive overlap of objects and/or outlines caused by the push and pull effect of fill stitches

• display of the alteration in 1/10 millimeter (mm)

altering Run Length (outline)

•

• lengthen Run Length by touching « + » shorten Run Length by touching « – »

confirm entry by touching «OK»

• display of the alteration in 1/10 millimeter (mm)

to insert lettering touch the Text bar


to change the alphabet type scroll next to the

•

Alphabet symbol the alphabet type changes in the display

to alter lettering size scroll with arrows next to the Height box

• alteration is shown in milimeter (mm)

to change the baseline type of lettering touch the desired on-screen button

• horizontal baseline

•

• circle counter clockwise produces lettering below the curved baseline (three different forms of arched lettering are possible, the larger the green circle the less the arch) circle clockwise produces lettering above the curved baseline (three different forms of arched lettering are possible, the larger the green circle the less the arch)

• vertical baseline

use up or down arrows to change letter spacing in mm steps between letters

To Next Page - Edit 1

touch symbol

•

Screen Edit 1 appears

Note:

The last activated function in Edit 2 (Move Motif, Rotate

Motif, Rescale Motif Height or Width and Rescale Motif

Proportionally) can still be changed when switching back to screen Edit 1.

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Hoop Display

• display of the attached embroidery hoop with stitch field dimensions in mm

In the Embroidery menu (Ready) the motif can be embroidered and embroidery related alterations made (e.g. adjusting thread tension, reducing motor speed, etc.).

Hoop Relocator

• this function makes threading easier if the thread has to be changed when the needle is very close to the left edge of the hoop

touch symbol

• the hoop moves horizontally to the center, a message appears

rethread

touch «OK» and the message will

• close the hoop moves back to the previous position

touch the Quick Reverse button

• the embroidery computer continues to embroider

Color Information Bar

• information on the current thread color:

• display of the current thread color

• position of the current thread color

(1st number)

•

• number (2nd number) color number of the selected thread brand

right and left arrow change the current thread color

touch the Color Information bar

• the hoop moves to first stitch of current thread color (a cursor icon appears in the Color

Information bar)

• the current (active) color can also be individually embroidered by touching the Color Information bar Motif Size

• display of the motif width and height in millimeters (mm)

Embroidery Time

• display in minutes of the total embroidery time of the motif selected

Embroidery Time

Thread Tension (Alteration)

touch symbol

• the Thread Tension screen appears

•

• the Thread Tension can be altered as desired the selected setting is visible in the on-screen button

To Screen Edit 1

touch symbol

• the screen changes from the

Embroidery menu (Ready) to the screen

Edit 1

•

•

•

•

•

• display of the total (and remaining) embroidery time of the motifs on the upper bar

Number in upper bar: the left number indicates how many stitches there are in the active motif/motif combination the right number indicates the total stitch count of the active motif/motif combination display of the embroidery time of the active color in the lower bar stitch time on both bars counts down as embroidery progresses


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Embroidery Speed 1 /

4

, 1 /

2

, 3 /

4

, 4 /

4


•

•

• the desired speed will be selected the bar on the symbol shows the alteration reduces or increases the Embroidery

Speed proportionally

touch the symbol longer and the default speed (4/4) is set again

Single/Multi Color Motif

touch symbol

• if the symbol is active, the complete

• motif will be embroidered in one color

(without stopping) if the symbol is inactive, the colors will be embroidered individually

Embroidery Sequence Control

(i.e. thread breakage)

touch symbol

• the Information Area for operating the stitch width knob appears

to check the embroidery sequence of

• the motif in stages turn stitch width knob the needle follows the embroidery sequence in small steps

to follow the embroidery sequence forwards, turn the stitch width knob clockwise

to follow the embroidery sequence

• backwards, turn the stitch width knob counter clockwise the number in the Information Area shows the stitch count of the embroidery sequence

to reactivate the default setting touch the purple knob icon

Move Hoop

touch symbol

• the Information Areas for operating the

• stitch width and stitch length knob appear if the fabric of a large motif has to be rehooped (e.g. lettering, border, etc.), the hoop can be moved to the last stitch of the already embroidered part of the motif by turning the knobs

«?» (Help)


• the explanation for the selected function appears

close with «ESC»

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The Embroidery Computer – On-screen Functions and Display

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Starting Embroidery With Quick

Reverse Button on Head Frame

touch Quick Reverse button on head frame to start embroidery

to enter the Embroidery menu directly from the Design menu touch the Quick Reverse button on head frame

Automatic Thread Cutter

• when a color finished embroidering, upper and lower threads areautomatically cut

External Functions

Stitch Width / Stitch Length Knobs

with different functions such as

•

Thread Tension, Alter Size, Rotate

Motif, etc. the external knobs are used to work on the motifs an Information Area appears if the knobs can be operated

Embroidery Mode/ Sewing Mode

Button

changing from Embroidery Mode to Sewing Mode and vice versa

The Embroidery Computer – External Functions

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213

214

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In General

216

Embroidery Threads

218

Embroidery Stabilizers

219

Hooping the Fabric

221

Important Embroidery

Information

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Choosing an Embroidery Motif

• simple motifs with a low stitch count are suitable for embroidery on fine fabric

• large-scale, densely embroidered motifs

(e.g. with multiple color and embroidery direction changes) are suitable for medium- and heavyweight fabrics

Embroidery Test

always stitch an embroidery test on a sample fabric. Adjust color, thread quality, needle, stitch density, tension, etc. to suit the motif if necessary

for the test use the same fabric and stabilizer that you will use on the project

Scaling/Sizing Motifs

• motifs can be scaled/sized with artista software either on the embroidery computer or on

• the PC to get good results, the motifs should be scaled within the limits of 75% to 150%

In General

Different Stitch Types

Underlay Stitches

Underlay stitches are the foundation of a motif and are used to stabilize the base fabric and hold it in shape. They also prevent the covering stitches of the motif from sinking into the knit or the nap of the fabric. They are accomplished automatically in the built-in designs for artista 730 and in artista Design cards.

Fill Stitches

Satin Stitch

•

• this stitch sews a dense zig-zag so the thread covers the motif satin stitches are suitable for filling small and narrow areas. They are not suitable for filling large areas, as long stitches are too loose and do not cover the fabric properly. In addition there is the danger that with too long stitches the threads could catch on something which would damage the embroidery

Step Stitch

• a fill stitch with stitches of specified length sewn in rows used primarily to fill large areas quickly

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Important Embroidery Information – In General

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Fancy-Fill Stitches

•

• to give areas a special effect stitches that create a motif with an area to be filled

Outline Stitches

•

•

• usually straight or satin stitches used to define a specific area or areas examples are: straight stitch, double run, triple run, satin

Jump Stitches

•

•

• long stitches that skip over fabric after one part of the motif finishes and the next begins before and after the jump stitch securing stitches are sewn jump stitches are trimmed before the next color starts to embroider

Important Embroidery Information – In General

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Embroidery Threads

One of the most important elements in successful embroidery is the quality of the thread. We strongly recommend that you purchase thread from a reputable BERNINA dealer in order to avoid irregularities, thread breakage, etc. which so often occur with poor quality threads.

Embroidery is particularly effective if you use glossy rayon or polyester embroidery threads as upper threads. They are available in a wide range of colors for beautiful embroidery.

Polyester Threads

Polyester with a brilliant sheen is a hard wearing colorfast thread and has a high tensile strength. It is suitable for all types of embroidery, especially children’s clothing and items which will be washed often or subject to much wear and tear.

Embroidery Threads

Rayon Threads

Rayon is a soft viscose fiber with a brilliant sheen and suitable for fine, delicate embroidery, or items that will not receive excessive wear and tear.

Metallic Wrapped Polyester Thread

Metallic thread is a light- to mediumweight thread suitable for special effects in embroidery.

Preferably use with a Metafil 130/705 H-MET needle or Organ needle of varying sizes.

Embroidery Needle

correct size thread must correspond with correct size needle

replace needle regularly

TIP ads we recommend to use the vertical spool pin for smooth unwinding.

• for more information on Needles see pages 17-19

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Bobbin Threads

Bobbin-Fil (Special Bobbin Thread)

Bobbin-Fil is an especially soft and light polyester thread suitable for bobbin thread. This special bobbin thread ensures a steady thread tension and an optimal intertwining of the upper and bobbin thread.

Darning and Embroidery Thread

Fine mercerized cotton thread suitable for embroidery (Mettler 60 weight suggested), which is embroidered on cotton fabric.

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Important Embroidery Information – Embroidery Threads

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Tear-away Stabilizers

• similar to interfacing; tears like paper

•

• one or more layers can be used comes in different weights

for more stability, apply to the wrong side of the fabric with temporary spray adhesive before hooping

carefully tear away exessive stabilizer from the

• back of the embroidery after stitching stabilizer will remain under larger embroidered areas

Application:

• for all woven fabrics and fabrics which are not elastic

Cut-away Stabilizers

•

• one or more layers can be used comes in light- and heavyweight

for more stability, apply to the wrong side of the fabric with temporary spray adhesive before hooping

carefully cut away from the back of the

• embroidery after stitching stabilizer will remain under larger embroidered areas

Application:

• for all elastic fabrics, especially suited for knits

Iron-on Interfacing

must be preshrunk by soaking in warm water

•

•

• this is pressed (fused) to the wrong side of the fabric iron-on interfacings are available in a variety of weights and should be selected to suit the fabric being used removable iron-on interfacing is also available

Application:

• to provide body and shape for fabrics onto

• which motifs will be placed use in conjunction with appropriate stabilizer

Embroidery

Stabilizers

Paper Backed Adhesive Stabilizer

place stabilizer in hoop, paper side up

use a pointed object (e.g. scissors) to score the paper and remove it to reveal the self-adhesive surface

position the piece of fabric to be embroidered on the stabilizer

Application:

• intended for delicate fabrics such as jersey or silk

• for hard to hoop sections and fabrics such as velvets

Note:

When using paper backed adhesive stabilizer make sure that the adhesive residue on needle, stitch plate and hook area is removed.

Important Embroidery Information – Embroidery Stabilizers

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Water Soluble Stabilizer for Fabric With a Pile and Lace Embroidery

•

•

• water soluble stabilizer looks like plastic wrap dissolve stabilizer in warm water when embroidery is complete water soluble stabilizers are ideal protection for fabrics with a thick or looped pile such as toweling

place on top of toweling and high nap fabrics backed by appropriate stabilizer for fabric and motif. This also prevents the threads from sinking into the fabric and prevents fabric from showing between embroidery stitches

use spray adhesive to fix stabilizer if necessary

for fabric with a pile, reinforce with additional, suitable stabilizer on the wrong side if necessary

for lace embroidery place one or two layers of water soluble stabilizer in hoop (as the motif is not embroidered on any fabric, only the thread embroidered motif is left)

after dissolving lay the motif down flat and let dry

water soluble stabilizer can also be removed by gently tearing it away when used as a topping on non-washable fabrics like velvet

Application:

•

• ideal for toweling, velvet, bouclé knits, etc.

ideal for fine, sheer fabrics such as organdy, batiste, etc.

•

• recommended for use as a stabilizer with low stitch count motifs use heavier water soluble stabilizer to stitch lace motifs

Adhesive Spray

•

Please avoid using adhesive spray next to your embroidery system

•

• for more stability, spray the stabilizer and adhere to the wrong side of the fabric carefully smoothing fabric so there are no puckers

Use adhesive carefully and spray from a distance of 25cm - 30cm (9.8 inches to 11.8 inches)

Usage:

•

Stretch and knitted material: to retain shape

•

•

•

Appliqué: position appliqués perfectly

Two or more pieces of fabric: avoid slipping of fabric layers

Fabric pieces: position fabric pieces on stabilizer,

• i.e. pocket flaps

Napped fabrics (i.e. velvet) that should not be clamped in the hoop because of the possibility of getting hoop marks

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Centering

determine the center of the fabric to be embroidered

mark with a fabric marker or chalk

Using the Embroidery Hoop

loosen the screw(s)

remove the inner hoop

• the arrows on both hoops should match

• the arrows on the medium, large and Mega hoops are at the center front and on the right hand side of the small hoop

Hooping the Fabric

Embroidery Template

• there is a template for each embroidery hoop, the small hoop has two

•

• the embroidery surface is marked in 3/8” (1 cm) squares the center and corners are marked with holes for transferring marks to fabric

place the template in the inner hoop so that the word BERNINA is at the front (by the arrows)

• and can be read the template will engage automatically in the

• inner hoop there are finger holes for removing the template from the small and medium hoops, and special attachment clips for the large and Mega hoop templates

Important Embroidery Information – Hooping the Fabric

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221

Hooping the Fabric

place fabric on top of the outer hoop

place the marked center point in the center of

• the template on inner hoop match the arrows of inner and outer hoops

place inner hoop on top of fabric and outer hoop and press into place, loosening screws to accommodate fabric. Tighten screws

remove template

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Motifs

• Embroidering • Positioning

• Altering: mirroring, size

• Combining

224

Alphabets – Lettering

• In general • Combining lettering

234

Adjustments

• Motif colors

• Adjusting motifs

240

Applications

• Free arm embroidery • Lace

• Borders • Shadow Embroidery

243

Embroidery

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In General

All motifs can be either embroidered directly or can be combined with the different functions offered by the embroidery computer.

Apart from combining designs, it is also possible to rotate the motifs, to alter the stitch density, to allocate another thread color, etc.

Motifs

Basic Information on Embroidering Motifs With no Alterations

Motif Information

Valuable information about the desired motif is available in the

Motif Selection menu:

touch the function «?» (Help) and select desired motif

224

Embroidery - Motifs

• in the opened special screen «Design Information», the following information on the selected motif is available:

•

Name

•

•

•

•

Width

Height

Embroidery Time

No. Stitches

•

No. Colors

touch «Open»

• the motif appears in the screen Edit 1

Select Hoop

The most appropriate (smallest possible) hoop is automatically chosen for the selected embroidery motif:

•

• the motif is shown on the display in the center of the most appropriate hoop

«Select Hoop» also shows the most appropriate hoop

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View Motif in Detail (Zoom)

A detailed viewing of the motif is possible with the Zoom function:

touch symbol once

• displays the motif enlarged by one step (zoomed in)

touch symbol a second time

• displays the motif enlarged by a further step, in addition the function «Scroll Zoomed Motif» appears

touch symbol «Scroll Zoomed Motif»

• the Information Areas for operating the stitch width and length knob appear

detailed viewing of the individual parts: scroll zoomed motifs

• horizontally or vertically by turning the appropriate knob stitch width scrolls right/left

• stitch length scrolls up/down

by touching symbol a third time, reverts motif back to original size

Embroidering Motif

To change to the Embroidery menu (Ready) touch «OK» in screen Edit 1 or press the external Quick Reverse button on head frame

embroider motif

• for more information on Starting to Embroider see pages

204-205

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TIP

• this function makes threading easier when the needle is very close to the left edge of the hoop

touch symbol and the hoop will move horizontally to the center, which makes threading easier

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Positioning Motif

Positioning Motif in Desired Location

By moving or rotating the motif can be moved to another position within the hoop.

Preparation

select desired motif from the

Selection menu

• the motif appears in the screen

Edit 1

use the «To Next Page» symbol to change to the screen Edit 2

Note:

If the knobs are turned slowly the motif can be moved step by step

(step length = 1/10mm).

Move Motif

Move motif as desired:

touch symbol


to move the motif horizontally turn the stitch width knob

turn stitch width knob to right to move motif to right

turn stitch width knob to left to move motif to left

• in the Information Area the alteration is displayed in 1/10 mm

to move the motif vertically turn the stitch length knob

turn stitch length knob clockwise (down) to move motif downwards

turn stitch length knob counter clockwise (up) to move motif up

• in the Information Area the alteration is displayed in 1/10 mm

to move the motif diagonally turn the stitch width and length

• knob the motif is moved diagonally when the same number appears in both Information Areas

to move the motif back to the middle touch the Information

•

Areas or touch «Move Motif» again

If a stitch happens to fall outside the embroidery area, the outline of the hoop is displayed in red.

Note:

If the knobs are turned slowly the motif can be moved in 1° steps.

Rotate Motif

Rotate motif as desired:

touch symbol


to rotate the motif clockwise turn stitch width knob clockwise

• in the Information Area the position in shown in degrees (°)

to rotate the motif counter clockwise turn the stitch width knob counter clockwise

• in the Information Area the position in shown in degrees (°)

to reactivate the default setting (0°/360°) touch the purple knob icon

touch «rotate motif» several times and the motif is rotated clockwise in 90° steps (0°/90°/180°/270°/360°)

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Checking the Motif Position

With the functions «Check» and «Motif Center» the motif position can be checked before embroidering.

Check

The function «Check» reads the attached hoop size and stitching area:

touch symbol

• the hoop size is read causing the hoop to move

«Check» then confirms placement by moving hoop to reflect stitching area of selected motif

«Check» moves hoop 4 steps so that stitching area of selected motif can be confirmed

•

• hoop moves to lower left corner hoop moves to lower right corner

•

• hoop moves to upper right corner hoop moves to upper left corner

confirm each position by touching «OK»

• if no hoop or a too small hoop was attached, an error message will appear

Checking Motif Center

touch symbol

• the exact center of the motif is indicated on the display

• the hoop will be moved until the needle is in the center of the motif

touch symbol again and on the display the first stitch of the motif will be marked once more

Altering Motifs

Mirroring Motifs

Each motif can be mirrored left/right or up/down.

Preparation

select desired motif from the Selection menu

• motif appears in the screen Edit 1


Mirroring Motifs Horizontally (left/right)

touch symbol «Horizontal Mirror Image (left/right)»

• the motif will be mirrored horizontally

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227

Mirroring Motifs Vertically (up/down)

touch symbol «Vertical Mirror Image (up/down)»

• the motif will be mirrored vertically

Mirroring Motifs Horizontally and Vertically

touch symbols «Horizontal Mirror Image (left/right)» and

«Vertical Mirror Image (up/down)»

• the motif will be mirrored horizontally and vertically

Calculating New Embroidery Data

After changing from screen Edit 2 to Embroidery menu (Ready)

touch Recalculation to have best Quality - may be time consuming!

touch Resizing for fastest calculation. Quality may be not the best

(only suitable for motifs which were altered between 90% and

120%).

•

•

• the spinning thread spool indicates that an altered motif is being recalculated. At the same time the motif is being saved for recovery if necessary depending on the size of the pattern, the saving might take a while each alteration made will appear in the Embroidery menu (Ready)

Note:

No operations are possible during the calculation process!

TIP

A wonderful variety of combinations are possible together with the function «Rotate Motif».

TIP

If mirrored and unmirrored designs are combined, particularly attractive effects and borders can be designed.

• for more information on Combining Motifs see pages 231-233

•••••••••••

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Altering Motif Size

Note:

To get good results, the motifs should be scaled within the limits of 75% to 150%.

Each motif can be proportionally enlarged or reduced as well as rescaled horizontally or vertically.

Preparation




Note:

If the knobs are turned slowly the motif size can be altered in 1% steps.

Enlarging or Reducing Motif Proportionally

Altering the motif as desired:

touch symbol



to reduce the motif turn stitch width knob counter clockwise

• in the Information Area the alteration is displayed in percent (%)

to reactivate the default setting (100%) of the motif touch the Information Area

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229

Note:

If the knobs are turned slowly the motif size can be altered in 1% steps.

Adjust the Motif Height or

Width

Motifs can be widened or reduced horizontally or lengthened and reduced vertically as desired:

touch symbol


to adjust the width (widen or reduce the motif horizontally) turn stitch width knob clockwise to widen or counter clockwise to reduce motif

• in the Information Area the adjustment is displayed in percent (%)

to adjust the height (lengthen or reduce the motif vertically) turn stitch length knob clockwise to enlarge or counter clockwise to reduce motif

• in the Information

Area the adjustment is displayed in percent (%)

to reactivate the default setting

(100%) of the motif touch the Information

Area

Display of the Motif Size

The motif width and height is displayed in millimeters (mm) on screen.

Selecting the Most Appropriate Hoop for Adjusted Motif Size

The most appropriate hoop should be chosen for the motif size:

touch «Select Hoop»

•

• a special screen appears with possible choices of hoops by selecting a hoop (Small, Middle, Large Oval or Mega) the motif is shown in the appropriate hoop after the special screen closes


After changing from the screen Edit 2 to Embroidery menu (Ready) the new embroidery data is recalculated according to the changes made.

• for more information on Calculating New Embroidery Data see page 228

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Combining Motifs

Motifs can be combined as desired with the embroidery computer to create completely new designs. A combination can consist of several identical motifs or of different ones. It is also possible to combine motifs with lettering.

Application

•

•

•

• combining motif variations creating new designs embroidering borders creating logos, crests, badges, labels, etc.

Preparation



Creating Combinations

Adding Another Motif

With the function «Add Motif» another motif or letter from the Selection menu is added to the existing one:

touch «Add Motif»

•


select motif or letter of your choice from the

Selection menu

• for more information on Lettering see pages 234-239

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Duplicating Existing Motif

The duplicating function simplifies combining different variations of the same motif:

touch «Duplicate»

• the active motif will be duplicated automatically and displayed slightly offset above the other motif

Note:

Moving motifs in multiple combinations may result in a delay of on-screen information.


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Creating Motif Combination

With functions such as «Move Motif», «Rotate Motif» «Mirror Image», etc.

the motif combination can be created as desired.

Selecting Motif Within the Motif

Combination

touch the symbol «Retrieve» once or more

• switches between different motifs when combining designs

• active motif is shown in color

touch «Retrieve» until the desired motif is activated

Note:

Depending on how many times the symbol was touched, one motif or the complete motif combination is active.

Creating / Altering Motif Combination

use the «To Next Page» symbol to change to the screen Edit 2 and create combination by altering the active motif (= in color):

with «Move Motif» move the motif to the desired

• position in addition other alterations are possible: scaling, rotating, mirroring, etc.

• for more information on different Functions see pages 206-213

••••••••••••••••••••••••••

• the screen displays all changes directly

to alter another motif of the motif combination, activate the desired motif with «Retrieve»

alter selected motif as desired

Note:

With the function «Move Motif»

(touch twice) a duplicated motif can be centered.

Note:

If the indicated hoop offers too little space, select a larger one with the function «Select Hoop».

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Corrections and Alterations in the Motif Combination

Inserting New Motif

• to add another motif or duplicate an existing motif see «Creating Combinations»

Altering Motif

touch the symbol «Retrieve» in the screen Edit 1 or

Edit 2 once or more until the desired motif is activated (in color)

alter the activated motif in the screen Edit 2 as desired

Deleting Motifs

touch the symbol «Retrieve» in the screen Edit 1 or

Edit 2 once or more until the desired motif is activated (in color)

touch «Delete» in the screen Edit 1 and the activated motif will be automatically deleted

Selecting the Most Appropriate Hoop for Adjusted

Motif Size

The best embroidery results are achieved by selecting the most appropriate hoop for the motif size.

• for more information on Selecting the Most

Appropriate Hoop see pages 204/207

•••••••••


After changing from the screen Edit 1 or Edit 2 to Embroidery menu (Ready) the new embroidery data is recalculated according to the changes made.

• for more information on Calculating New

Embroidery Data see page 228

•••••••••••••••

• for more information on Saving Motifs see pages 248-250

•••••••••


233

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Letters can be combined with other letters or motifs and embroidered with the embroidery computer. The artista 730 embroidery computer's screen Edit 2 offers a large variety of alteration possibilities:

Apart from altering the letter size, the baseline type amongst other things, can be altered. For instance arched letters can be made from horizontally arranged letters.

Application

•

• names, monograms and addresses words and text

•

• creating logos, crests, badges, labels, etc.

labeling quilts (quilt labels)

Alphabets - Lettering

Combining Letters

select desired alphabet from the Selection menu

• a special screen with a keyboard appears

•

• the «ABC» on-screen button (upper case) is automatically active in the special screen there are different functions which take you to the appropriate lettering:

•

«Capital Letters» function

•

•

•

•

«Lower Case Letters» function

«Special Capital Letters» function

«Special Lower Case Letters» function

«Numbers» function

•

«Special Characters» function

select desired letters

spaces can be added by touching the blank space bar

• the letters appear in the Text bar

Note:

If your edited lettering does not fit in the hoop, rotate lettering by

90º (a large number of letters can fit into the lengthwise stitch area of the hoop).

Should this not be of any help then change size of lettering or reduce number.

Correcting Letters

to delete individual letters touch the arrow on the right of the

Text bar

• letters are deleted from right to left

to delete letters touch the Text bar

Confirming Letters

confirm combined letters with «OK» and the letters appear in the screen Edit 1

Embroidering Letters With or Without Alterations

The combined letters are ready to be embroidered or can be altered with the different functions as desired.

• for more information on Embroidering With no Alterations see pages 204-205 (Basic Information on Embroidering Motifs With no Alterations)

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234

Embroidery - Alphabets, Lettering

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Altering Lettering

The letters are altered in the screen Edit 2:

Rescaling the Letters Height or Width

touch symbol and the Information

Areas for operating the stitch width and length knob appear

to adjust the motif horizontally turn stitch width knob

to adjust the motif vertically turn stitch length knob

• in the Information Area the adjustment is displayed in percent


(100%) of the motif touch the

Information Area

Mirroring Lettering

touch symbol «Horizontal Mirror

Image (left/right)» and the motif will be mirrored horizontally

touch symbol «Vertical Mirror

Image (up/down)» and the motif will be mirrored vertically

Enlarging or Reducing

Lettering Proportionally

touch symbol and the Information

Area for operating the stitch width knob appears


to reduce the motif turn stitch

• width knob counter clockwise in the Information Area the alteration is displayed in percent


(100%) of the motif touch the

Information Area

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235

Creating Arched Lettering

touch symbol and a special screen appears

select desired arched lettering style:

•

•

• lettering below the curved baseline

(lettering counter clockwise) lettering above the curved baseline

(lettering clockwise)

• three forms each of arched lettering are possible (the larger the green circle the less the arch)

confirm with «OK» the special screen closes and the lettering is displayed, formed in the selected arch

Lettering With Vertical or Horizontal Baseline

touch symbol and a special screen appears

select vertical or horizontal baseline

confirm with «OK»

• the special screen closes and the lettering is displayed, formed in the selected baseline

Moving Letters

• after altering the baseline it is possible that the programmed text is no longer in the center of the hoop

touch symbol twice to move text to the center of the hoop

Altering Lettering Size With Direct Input

touch the Letter Manipulation button

height can be changed in mm steps for selected lettering by using arrows at right end of Height box

• up arrow increases lettering size

• down arrow decreases lettering size

Changing Letter Spacing

use up or down arrows to change spaces in mm steps between letters

Changing Fonts

touch the Letter Manipulation button

new font can be selected for entered text

use up or down arrows at right end of Font bar to change font style

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Selecting the Most Appropriate Hoop for Adjusted Motif Size

The best embroidery results are achieved by selecting the most appropriate hoop for the motif size.

• for more information on Selecting the Most Appropriate Hoop see pages 204/207

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After changing from the screen Edit 2 to Embroidery menu (Ready) the new embroidery data is recalculated according to the changes made.

• for more information on Calculating New Embroidery Data see page 228

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

• for more information on Saving Altered Lettering see pages

248-250

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Combining Lettering

Letters (for example words) can be combined with other letters or motifs.

Combining Different Words

The words (for example Nothing Sews Like A Bernina. Nothing.) are put together by the line and positioned individually:

Putting Together the First Text Line

select desired alphabet type from the Selection menu

• a special screen with a keyboard appears

enter for example «Nothing Sews»

• select letters by using the Upper Case/Lower Case button and touch space bar to insert spaces where needed

confirm combined letters with «OK» and the letters appear in the screen Edit 1


Note:



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Positioning First Text Line

select large hoop (Large Oval) with the function «Hoop Select»

rotate text by 90° (more space for text in hoop) with the Rotate

Motif function

position text with the function «Move Motif»

if a stitch happens to be placed outside the embroidery area, the motif outline is displayed in red

Combining and Positioning Further Text Lines

select «Add Motif» in the screen Edit 1

• further text lines will also be combined and positioned individually as described above

for even line spacings: align lines with the help of the values displayed in the «Move Motif» function and switch guiding lines function on

Combining Motifs and Lettering

After selecting a motif the lettering is added according to the work at hand (e.g. text in a motif). Or the lettering is created first and the motif added afterwards (e.g. embellished text).

Combining Example

select desired motif in the embroidery computer


select «Add Motif» in the screen Edit 1

select desired alphabet type from the Selection menu

• a special screen with keyboard appears

enter text (e.g. «Flowers»)

select lettering using Upper Case/Lower Case button

confirm combined lettering with «OK» and the lettering is displayed in the screen Edit 1 slightly offset above the motif

Note:


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Altering Text to Suit Motif


position the text as desired with the function «Move Motif»

alter text size to suit motif with the functions «Rescale Motif

Proportionally» or «Rescale Motif Height or Width»


After changing from the screen Edit 2 to Embroidery menu

(Ready) the new embroidery data is recalculated according to the changes made.

• for more information on Saving Lettering see pages 248-250

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

• for more information on Calculating New

Embroidery Data see page 228

•••••••••••••

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239

Motif Colors

The motif colors can be changed as well as embroidered in different ways.

Preparation

select desired motif from the

Selection menu

• the motif is displayed in the screen Edit 1

Adjustments

Reallocating Motif Colors

touch the function «Color Number» in the screen Edit 1 or Edit 2

•

• the Color Motif display opens following information on color is available: display of current color, current color position (first number), numberof all colors (second number) and color number of chosen thread brand

scroll with the arrows until the color to be changed appears

touch Color Information bar

• a special screen for changing the current thread color appears

to change the thread brand scroll with the arrows next to the color brand, until the desired brand appears

to change the thread color scroll with the arrows next to the thread color, until the desired color appears, then touch Color bar

• touched Color bar is active (highlighted in blue)

Note:

For a quick selection of a certain color number, use the function «Color Selection by Number».

touch «OK» , selected thread color and changed thread brand are displayed in the Color Information bar

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Embroidery - Adjustments

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Embroidering Motifs in One Color

touch the brush symbol in the Embroidery menu (Ready)

•

• brush symbol is activated (highlighted in blue) embroidery computer stops only when motif is complete

Embroidering Lettering in Multi Colors

•

•

•

•

• lettering is embroidered in one color and the brush symbol is not visible to embroider each letter of a word or each word of a word combination in a different color, each letter or word must be programmed and placed separately the embroidery computer stops after each letter or word, the thread color can be changed the Embroidery Time is displayed for each color to embroider the complete lettering combination in one color, touch the brush symbol now visible

• for more information on Combining Motifs see page 231

•••••••

Embroidering Individual Color Sections and Manual

Adjustment of Color Sequence

• special effects can be acquired according to the motif, only when individual color sections are embroidered (e.g. embroider only the outlines of the motif)

scroll Embroidery menu (Ready) for color sequence until desired color area is displayed

to confirm touch the Color Information bar (the cursor symbol appears). This positions the needle in the start of the color sequence selected

embroider color (embroidery computer stops automatically at the end of color)

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241

Adjusting Motifs

Special fabrics (e.g. toweling, velvet, etc.), thinner or thicker threads can influence the embroidery result. If the embroidery test is not satisfactory, the motif can be adjusted accordingly with the Motif

Properties function in the screen Edit 2:

touch Motif Properties function

• a special screen with the following functions appears:

•

Satin Density: altering stitch density of satin stitch

•

•

Step Density: altering stitch density of step stitch

Fancy Density: altering stitch density of Fancy-Fill

•

•

Pull Compensation: adjusting excessive spacing/overlap of motif

Run Length: altering outline length

Altering Stitch Density

determining stitch type: satin stitch, step stitch or decorative stitches (Fancy-Fill)

increase desired stitch density by touching «+»

reduce desired stitch density by touching «-»


• the spinning spool shows that the new motif is being recalculated

• the spinning spool disappears and the screen Edit 2 reappears

• for more information on Stitch Types see pages 216-217

••••••••

Adjusting Pull Compensation

• is used for example when the outline is not correct or the motif is distorted

touching «+» increases the Pull Compensation value to decrease excessive spacing between objects and/or outlines caused by the push and pull effect of fill stitches

touching «-» decreases the Pull Compensation value to eliminate excessive overlap of objects and/or outlines caused by the push and pull effect of fill stitches




Altering Run Length (Outline)

lengthen Run Length by touching «+»

shorten Run Length by touching «-»




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Free Arm Embroidery

Free arm embroidery is suitable for lettering and small motifs (not larger than 72x50mm).

• for more information on Attaching

Adapter see page 200

•••••••••

Application

•

• embroidering closed items such as sleeves, trousers, socks, etc.

embroidering tubular items

Preparation

insert the adapter between the sewing computer and the embroidery module

Applications

Selecting Motif

select motif, stitching field of small hoop is 72x50 mm

rescale motif if necessary

check motif size with the function «?» (Help) from the

Selection menu if necessary

Note:

Not only small motifs are suitable for free arm embroidery, but also lettering and letter combinations.

select motif or letter

• the desired motif is displayed in the small hoop in the screen

Edit 1

alter motif or lettering if desired

when altering pay attention that maximum size does not exceed 72x50 mm

Embroidering

when changing from the screen Edit 1 or Edit 2 to Embroidery menu (Ready) the «adapter recognition» takes place

• the embroidery computer recognizes that the adapter as well as the small hoop are attached

embroider motif

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Embroidery - Applications

243

Embroidering Lace

•

• lace motifs can be embroidered directly onto fabric. For a true lace effect, however, embroider the motif on water soluble stabilizer, and then use it as lace use fine thread for fine embroidery. Use thick thread for crochet style effects

Embroidering

place two or three layers of water soluble stabilizer in embroidery hoop (depending on thickness of stabilizer)

embroider motif

rinse stabilizer away and place lace flat on paper towels to dry

Note:

In the two lace motifs already programmed in the embroidery computer, only the Heart is suitable for the technique described above.

TIP organza, netting or tulle underneath water soluble stabilizer when using one layer, and in between when using two layers. Trim excess organza or tulle closely along motif after rinsing and drying.

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Embroidering Borders

•

• embroidered borders can be made either from several small motifs or from long rows of aligned motifs borders are perfect for decorative embellishment of table and bedlinen, drapery and skirt hems, etc.

Preparation

use basting stitch (stitch No. 21) on sewing computer or an air or water soluble marker (test first on fabric remnant) to mark the center of the border

sub-divide border: measure length of the whole border as well as of one single motif or repeat (the size of one motif is displayed on the embroidery computer)

divide the whole length of border by the length of one motif or repeat to get the number of motifs or repeats that can be stitched on the border

•

• the remaining length is the distance between the individual motifs (divide length by one motif less than calculated, e.g. 8 motifs or repeats: divide total length by 7) for a wider distance between the individual motifs, stitch fewer motifs

mark individual motif center

• in continuous motifs, the end point of one motif is often the start point of the next one, so the positioning of the individual motifs is done automatically

Embroidering

use template to place fabric in hoop (use center point and marked center line as a guide)

embroider motif, unhoop fabric and rehoop at next mark

Use BERNINA's software to print motif in original size for use as a template. Use print to arrange and place motif directly on fabric (mark center or start point of design).

Alternatively, use a scrap of original fabric to embroider motif. Use motif instead of print for placements.

TIP

Use the embroidery Mega-Hoop for particularly easy embroidering of borders: fabric need not be hooped as often as when using normal hoops.

Touch the Color Information bar in Embroidery menu (Ready) to move the hoop to first stitch of current thread color (a cursor symbol appears in the Color Information bar).


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Shadow Embroidery

A shadow effect is acquired if the same embroidered lettering or word in another color is placed slightly offset on top of an already embroidered lettering or word.

Creating Lettering

create lettering

Reducing Stitch Density

• since the lettering is embroidered on top of each other, reduce the stitch density to obtain best possible embroidery results

select Motif Properties function in the screen

Edit 2

• a special screen with stitch types altering applications appears

reduce stitch density of lettering stitch by touching «-» and confirm with «OK»

• according to the amount of reduction, embroidered lettering appears more airy

Duplicating Lettering

copy lettering with the function «Duplicate» in the screen Edit 1

• the alteration of the stitch density remains in the lettering copy

Moving Copied Lettering

move lettering copy to the desired position in the screen Edit2

• the created lettering shadow can appear smaller or lager according to how the copied lettering was moved

Allocating Motif Colors

allocate the desired lettering colors in the screen

Edit 1 or Edit 2

Embroidering Lettering With Shadow

embroider lettering

• for more information on Lettering see page 234

•••••••••••••••••

• for more information on Allocating

Motif Colors see page 240

•••••

TIP

Reduce embroidery speed according to stitch density if necessary.

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Saving Motifs

• Saving to the embroidery computer

• Saving on Personal design card

• Overwriting motifs

• Saving on BERNINA Memory Stick

248

Deleting Saved Motifs

• Deleting one saved motif

• Deleting all saved motifs

251

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Saving and Deleting

Motifs

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In General

Motifs from the embroidery computer, personal design cards, Sticks or the myartista Portal, as well as motifs created in the BERNINA artista software, can be combined, rearranged, and altered in different ways, then saved. Motifs can either be saved to the embroidery computer, on a personal design card or on a Personal USB Memory Stick.

The embroidery computer has a memory system, i.e. both the sewing stitch combinations and embroidery «My Designs» are saved in this system.

Since the memory space is not sub-divided into fixed spaces, any desired number of motifs can be stored as long as enough free memory is still available. If there is not enough memory space, other motifs and/or stitch information must first be deleted.

Saving Motifs

Saving to the Embroidery Computer

Note:

In a saved stitch combination, individual stitches can be altered after being selected.

Note:

Motifs which have been altered in terms of size, stitch density, etc. and saved, will be regarded as a new motif when subsequently selected and placed in the center of the hoop.

That is why all percentages say 100%, and the original alteration(s) is/are no longer visible.

open desired motif from embroidery computer, personal design card or peripheral source

alter or combine motif if desired

touch «Save» in the screen Edit 1

•

•

• motif to be saved is displayed as «untitled» on left of screen the Embroidery Computer button from the Selection menu is activated the folder My Designs will open automatically

• the System Memory Capacity (Free Capacity) is shown in percentage (%) in a bar above the folders

select motif to be saved

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Saving and Deleting Motifs – Saving Motifs

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• screen with keyboard appears

name the motif folder

touch «OK»

• the motif is now saved under this name in the

My Designs folder (in alphabetical order)

Saving to a Personal Design Card

• personal design cards are available as optional accessories from your BERNINA dealer



touch «Save» in the screen Edit 1

• for more information on Embroidery Cards see page 263

••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

• motif to be saved is displayed as «untitled» on left side of screen

insert personal design card

select Design Card button from the Selection menu

the System Memory Capacity (Free Capacity) is shown in percentage (%) in a bar above the folders

select the motif to be saved

• screen with keyboard appears

enter name of motif

touch «OK»

• motif is now saved on personal design card in alphabetical order with this name


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249

Saving to a Memory Stick (BERNINA Personal Memory Stick)

• blank memory sticks are available as optional accessories from your BERNINA dealer

select motif from the embroidery computer, an embroidery card or other data storage devices

edit or combine motif if wished

press «Save» in Edit 1 screen

• the motif to be saved is displayed as «Untitled» on the left in the screen

connect memory stick

select «USB Stick»

•

A green bar above the designs shows the used memory as percentage

chose the design to be saved

• key pad screen opens

enter name of motif

press «OK»

• motif is now saved under the given name in alphabetical order on memory stick

Overwriting Motifs

• motifs saved in «My Designs», on a personal design card or on a personal USB memory stick can be directly overwritten with a new motif



touch «Save» in the Design Menu Edit 1

• motif to be saved is displayed as «untitled» on left of screen

select «Memory Card» (if memory card is inserted) or «USB Stick» (if memory stick is connected) or «Embroidery Computer» in the Selection menu

touch the motif you wish to overwrite

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• a message appears asking «Do you want to overwrite 3 quilts.ART?»

touch «Yes» to confirm

select the motif to be saved

the motif is now saved with the name of the overwritten one

Deleting a Saved Motif

in the Selection menu, select «Memory Card» (if memory card is inserted) or «USB Stick» (if memory stick is connected) or

«Embroidery Computer» and respective file

touch the «?» (Help) button in the motif overview

select appropriate motif

Deleting Saved Motifs

• a special screen opens which, in addition to information on the motif selected, displays the Delete button at the bottom left

touch «Delete»

• special screen opens

touch «I want to delete this design»

• message «Do you really want to delete this design?» appears

confirm with «Yes»

• motif is deleted

Note:

If stock embroidery designs that came with the sewing computer are deleted, use the enclosed USB data stick to reload them to the sewing computer.

Saving and Deleting Motifs – Deleting Saved Motifs

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251

Deleting All Saved Motifs

• it is possible to delete the content of a personal design card, of a personal USB memory stick or a folder that has been saved on the embroidery computer all at once

to delete the content of a personal design card, activate

Design Card (personal design card inserted) in the menu

select «USB stick» (if a memory stick is connected) in the main menu to delete the contents of a memory stick

to delete the content of a folder in the embroidery computer, select Embroidery Computer in the menu, then the appropriate folder (Alphabets, Motif, My Designs)

touch the «?» (Help) button

select any desired motif

• a special screen opens which, in addition to information on the motif selected, displays the Delete button at the bottom left

touch «Delete»

• special screen opens

touch «I want to delete ALL designs»

• message «Do you really want to delete all designs in the folder/personal design card?» appears

confirm with «Yes»

• all motifs which were in the appropriate folder, on the personal design card or on the personal USB memory stick are now deleted

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Saving and Deleting Motifs – Deleting Saved Motifs

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Thread Breakage While

Embroidering

254

Trouble Shooting

• Prevention and remedy of failures

• Messages

255

Embroidery Support

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It is possible that the upper or lower thread may run out or break while embroidering. In this case the embroidery computer stops automatically provided that the upper and lower thread sensors are activated.

• how to activate Upper and Lower Thread Sensors in Setup see page 172

•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••


•

• the embroidery computer stops automatically when the upper thread runs out or has broken a message appears on the screen

check upper thread and lower thread if necessary and rethread

touch «OK» to go back to the Embroidery screen

Thread Breakage While

Embroidering

Lower Thread Runs Out

•

• the embroidery computer stops automatically when the lower thread runs out a message appears on the screen

check lower thread and refill if necessary

touch «OK» to go back to the Embroidery screen

Embroidery Sequence Control for Thread Breakage

touch symbol «Embroidery Sequence Control»

• the motif is enlarged for a better view of the exact place of the thread breakage

• an Information Area for the use of the stitch width knob appears

turn the stitch width knob counter clockwise (or clockwise) to move the embroidery hoop backwards (or forwards) in the embroidery sequence

turn the stitch width knob slowly to move the hoop stitch by stitch

go back stitch by stitch to a position several stitches before thread breakage occurred to resume stitching

Resuming Embroidery

press foot control or Quick Reverse button on head frame to resume stitching

•

Embroidery screen reappears again

complete motif

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Embroidery support – Thread Breakage While Embroidering

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Prevention and Remedy of Failures

Note the following advice to recognize the causes of most of the operation failures in the embroidery computer that might occur.

Check First Whether:

•

• upper and lower threads are threaded correctly the needle is inserted correctly - flat part of the shank to the back

•

•

•

• the needle is the correct size (see Needle/Thread

Chart on pages 17-19) the embroidery computer is clean - remove any thread lint the hook race is clean bits of thread are trapped between the tension disks and under the bobbin case spring

•

•

•

•

•

Use only 130/705H needle system

Needle is bent or blunt

Needle is not correctly inserted

Push all the way to the top when inserting low quality, badly polished needle used

Needle Breaks

•

• needle clamp screw is too loose defective stitch plate

Removing Trapped Thread

If the lower thread breaks and the thread is trapped in the area of the take-up lever, proceed as follows:

•

•

•

•

• power switch to «0» (off) remove the screw on the head frame with the angular Torx key pull head frame to the left remove remnants of thread attach head frame and tighten screw

Unsatisfactory Stitch Formation

•

• remnants of thread between tension disks: pull folded thin fabric (use the fold, not an outer edge) back and forth between the tension disks to clean the left and right side of the thread tension


Possible Faults:

• upper thread tension is too tight

•

•

• use of low quality needle. It is best to buy needles in a BERNINA store needle has been inserted incorrectly. The flat part of the shank must be to the back needle is blunt or bent

• use of poor quality thread, thread with knots, thread too old or dried out

Possible Solutions:

• attach foam pad

•

•

•

• use appropriate spool disc use net for even unwinding of thread (pull over upper thread spool) stitch plate hole or hook tip is damaged: take the embroidery computer to an authorized

BERNINA dealer reduce embroidery speed

•

•

•

•

•

•

• remove any remnants of thread from under the bobbin case spring adjust thread tension used wrong or no stabilizer at all incorrectly threaded; check upper and lower thread when embroidering, thread pigtail tensioner with lower thread use appropriate spool disc clean and oil hook (use original oiler only. See

Cleaning and Lubricating on page 185)

Embroidery Computer Fails to Run or Runs

Slowly

•

•

• plug not fully inserted power switch in «0» (off) position embroidery computer requires normal room temperature for operation

Defective Sewing Light

• take the embroidery computer to an authorized

BERNINA dealer Lower Thread Breaks

•

• lower thread tension is too tight lower thread is trapped in the bobbin case:

•

Replace bobbin

•

• needle is blunt or bent the stitch plate hole has been damaged by the needle:

•

It must be polished by a BERNINA Technician

•

•

•

Lower Thread Indicator Sensor bobbin cover is not closed not activated in the Setup Program remove any thread lint and remnants from the bobbin case

Skipped Stitches

• incorrect needle used

•

Upper Thread Indicator Sensor not activated in the Setup Program

Embroidery Support – Messages

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255

Messages

In special cases messages may appear on the screen. They serve as a reminder, warning, or confirmation of selected applications and functions.

Below, the embroidery module messages are listed.

•

Possible Messages regarding the sewing computer see page 189

•••••••••••

Message

•

The embroidery computer cannot change to sewing.

Please finish the layer and press the «Edit» button to return to previous screen. You may now safely change to sewing.

•

Hoop cannot be parked because the presser foot or needle is in the wrong position.

•

Please lower the feed dog.

Note

It is not possible to switch from

Embroidery Menu (Ready) to Sewing mode. Press «Edit» to return to Edit screen first.

Check presser foot and needle position.

•

•

•

Please use a larger embroidery hoop.

Card exchange was not accepted. Possible loss of data!

Please refer to your manual before exchanging cards.

The point lies outside the embroidery area.

Press the feed-dog drop key. The message disappears automatically when the feed-dog position was changed.

The embroidery design does not fit into the attached hoop.

Do not remove embroidery card from embroidery computer when in process.

Reposition design to fit into embroidery area before starting to stitch.

Follow the instructions in the message.

•

The next stitch lies outside the embroidery area. Please rehoop fabric and relocate the design.

•

Please reposition the Mega-Hoop to Upper (1) position, raise presser foot and press OK to start calibration.

•

Please reposition the Mega-Hoop to Middle (2) position, raise presser foot and press OK to start calibration.

•

Please reposition the Mega-Hoop to Lower (3) position, raise presser foot and press OK to start calibration.

•

Please change the needle to the highest position.

Move Mega-Hoop to position 1 (top).

Move Mega-Hoop to position 2 (center).

•

•

•

Please attach embroidery module.

Embroidery module communication NOT working!

Embroidery design card NOT working.

Move Mega-Hoop to position 3 (bottom).

Place needle into highest position by hand.

The embroidery module must be attached.

Check embroidery module/embroidery computer connection.

Remove embroidery card and insert again. Try other card if necessary.

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Message Note

•

You have selected embroidery. Please attach the embroidery module and foot No. 26 or No. 15, lift the presser foot and lower the feed dog. Please remove hoop (if attached). Press

OK to start module detection, the Module Arm will MOVE.


•

The attached hoop is too small for this design. Please press

‚Edit’ button to return to previous screen, change hoop and press ‚OK’ for hoop detection.


•

You have changed the hoop attachment. (from ‚normal’ to

‚free-arm’ or vice-versa) Please press ‚check’ button to start module calibration

Embroidery designs can only be stitched in Embroidery mode.

•

ADX: Please switch to Embroidery Mode to stitch out the file.

•

Not enough free Space to save Design!

Embroidery designs can only be stitched in Embroidery mode.

Scale design down or use larger hoop.

•

Design does not fit into hoop!

Scale design down or use larger hoop.

•

•

Bottom Left Position lies outside of hoop!

Bottom Right Position lies outside of hoop!

Position design within hoop.


•

Top Right Position lies outside of hoop!


•

Top Left Position lies outside of hoop!

•

Design Successfully Finished.

•

Please check the upper and lower thread for thread breakage or empty bobbin.

•

Please check lower thread. Please clean bobbin area of lint or stray thread. If bobbin is empty, please rewind bobbin.

•

Please lower presser foot.

Unhoop fabric.

Unhoop fabric.

Check the upper thread and lower thread if necessary.


•

Please raise the presser foot. The message will automatically disappear when the presser foot is raised.

•

For easier threading it is recommended that the presser foot is lowered.

Lower the presser foot

•

The sewing/embroidery computer is not functioning correctly. Please contact your BERNINA dealer.

Contact your BERNINA dealer ato check on the problem.

•

During start-up an error occurred. Please restart the sewing/embroidery computer. If the problem persists please contact your BERNINA dealer.

•

The BERNINA Modem cannot be identified. Please insert the Modem and try again.

The message will automatically disappear when the presser foot is lowered.

Switch sewing/embroidery computer off and on again..

The modem has not been recognized.

Remove modem and reconnect.


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257

Message

•

Cannot dial, please check the phone line and then dial number.

•

The authentication for the provider failed. Please check the username and the password.

•

The communication with the provider was interrupted.

Please try later or use another provider.

Note



Connecting problems. Enter another provider if possible or try again.

•

An unknown error occurred with the Modem. Please try again.

•

You cannot save or delete files on the myartista Portal.

Remove modem, then reconnect.

•

•

•

A problem occurred in communicating with the myartista

Portal. Please try again.

Your sewing/embroidery computer has now reached the time limit, where in order to guarantee continuous satisfactory work, the following small tasks should be carried out. Remove thread and lint and remnants from beneath the stitch plate, as well as from the feed dog area. These instructions can be found on page 185 of the manual.

Your sewing/embroidery computer has now reached the time limit, where your BERNINA dealer will be pleased to give it a service check.

•

You have opted for the possibility not to take your sewing/embroidery computer to your BERNINA dealer. This message will therefore only come on again after the next period of sewing/embroidering has been accomplished.

•

Main Motor failed. Please check hook system.

The myartista portal provides tips and news.

Try to connect to myartista portal again.

Remove modem and reconnect in necessary.

This message appears at approx.

180'000 stitches. Press «OK» to close message after cleaning and oiling. Press

«ESC» to temporarily «delete» the message. It will, however, reappear after restarting the sewing/embroidery computer. After «deleting» it three times by pressing «ESC», the message will not appear again before another approx.

180'000 stitches will have been stitched.

Take the sewing/embroidery computer to the BERNINA dealer for servicing. This message appears at approx. 2'000'000 stitches. After servicing, the stitch counter is reset to «0» by the Bernina servicing staff. Press «ESC» to temporarily

«delete» the message. It will, however, reappear after restarting the sewing/embroidery computer. After

«deleting» it three times by pressing

«ESC», the message will not appear again before another approx. 2'000'000 stitches will have been stitched (i.e. at

4'000'000 stitches).

Flawless functioning of the sewing/embroidery computer can not be guaranteed if the servicing is not carried out at the recommended regular intervals.

Open bobbin cover. Remove lint and thread remnants and clean hook system.

258


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Peripherals

• BERNINA computer system

• Connecting peripherals

260

Accessories

• Suitcase system

• Embroidery Mega-Hoop

• Embroidery cards

• BERNINA artista software

• USB Stick

262

Peripherals and

Accessories

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BERNINA Computer System

Connect peripherals (special accessories) to turn your artista 730 embroidery computer into an embroidery computer system, and take your hobby to unlimited heights of creativity.

In addition to a direct connection with the myartista Portal (information source), which takes you to the

Portal site especially created for the embroidery computer, it is also possible, for instance, to get extra motifs from a OESD USB Stick.

Ask your BERNINA dealer for more information.

Peripherals

The following external devices can be connected to the artista 730 embroidery computer:

•

BERNINA Modem

•

BERNINA-Ethernet Card

Note:

All peripherals are special accessories, depending on country. Ask your BERNINA dealer for information!

External Devices


(for access to myartista Portal)

It is possible to directly connect to the myartista portal (= information platform) and access the sites that have been especially programmed for the embroidery computer via screen on your artista 730. Simply connect the BERNINA modem or Ethernet

Card. The myartista portal provides embroidery designs – grouped by hoop size – to be downloaded to the embroidery computer.

Connecting via Modem

connect Modem

touch «Portal»

confirm message about connecting with «Yes»

when the connection to the Provider is made, then confirm the message that appears with «OK»

select the desired hoop from the now opened screen

the embroidery motif overview for the corresponding hoop size appears

Connecting via Ethernet Card

Connecting the Ethernet Card

press “Portal”

• the embroidery computer tries to find an active Internet connection

• connection established, the hoop overview screen appears

select the required hoop

a collection with motifs to fit into the selected hoop appears

The content of the myartista Portal is continuously updated.

260

Peripherals and Accessories – External Devices

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Connecting Peripherals (Embroidery Computer Compatible)


plug external device into socket provided on the right hand side of embroidery computer (look for symbol)

1

2

3

Note:

The external devices include user instructions!

1 BERNINA Modem

BERNINA Ethernet Card

BERNINA Embroidery Card

2 USB Stick

3 PC connection

Caution:

You must only use BERNINA external devices with the BERNINA artista 730 embroidery computer.

Ask your BERNINA dealer!

Peripherals and Accessories – External Devices

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261

BERNINA provides a variety of extra accessories to go with the artista 730 sewing/embroidery system for new and unlimited opportunities in your sewing and embroidery.

Ask your BERNINA dealer for detailed information.

Suitcase System

Thanks to the suitcase system with integrated wheels especially developed for the sewing and embroidery computer, you will be able to carry the latter with particular ease and elegance.

The case houses both standard and special accessories in conveniently arranged compartments and bags.

Accessories

Note:

The suitcase system protects the computers from dust and dirt, as well as humidity, for short distances.

Suitcase for Sewing Computer

simply remove bags and compartments to place the sewing computer in the suitcase for storage (screen faces front)

load compartments and bags with standard accessories and replace

the bags provide space for additional special accessories

Suitcase for Embroidery Computer

simply remove bags and compartments to place the embroidery module in the suitcase for storage (embroidery arm faces front)

load compartments and bags with standard accessories and replace

the bags provide space for additional special accessories

Caution:

When travelling by plane, coach or train, the suitcase system must be transported as carry-on luggage only, or «fragile goods»! The suitcase system must not be transported as normal luggage!

262

Peripherals and Accessories – Accessories

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Embroidery Mega-Hoop

Use the embroidery Mega-Hoop to stitch extra large motifs, large design combinations, or long borders with ease.

With the Mega-Hoop three embroidery positions are possible. If the Mega-Hoop has been repositioned, the embroidery computer stops and a message indicates, to which embroidery position

(1, 2 or 3) the Mega-Hoop has to be moved.

Use the VAR.00 template with the artista 730.

Extra large motifs for use with the Mega-Hoop can, for example, be downloaded from myartista Portal if your embroidery computer is connected to the BERNINA Modem or the BERNINA

Ethernet Card.

Note:

The embroidery Mega-Hoop includes user instructions!

Embroidery Cards

1

In addition to the preprogrammed BERNINA embroidery cards available as a supplement to the designs already in the embroidery computer, there are «empty» personal design cards available to save embroidery designs or embroidery design combinations.

The preprogrammed BERNINA embroidery cards contain a number of embroidery designs on a specific theme. The subject areas are continually supplemented and extended.

With this embroidery computer also older preprogrammed

BERNINA embroidery cards can be used.

1 Embroidery card

Inserting Embroidery Cards

slide design card into the slot provided on the right hand side of the embroidery computer (look for symbol)

• designs can now be opened and displayed on screen

Caution:

Do not remove embroidery cards when the computer is in use!

Note:

When using older BERNINA embroidery cards (e. g. artista 180) please refer to the color chart

(enclosed with card) for color details!

Removing Embroidery Cards

touch Embroidery Card Removal button

• button extension appears

touch button again

• embroidery card appears in card inserting slot on embroidery computer

remove embroidery card

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263

USB Sticks

2

2

USB Stick

In addition to the preprogrammed OESD embroidery designs data sticks for extra embroidery designs, there are also blank memory sticks (BERNINA Personal Memory Stick) to save embroidery designs or design combinations.

The preprogrammed OESD sticks contain a number of topic-related embroidery designs. The topics are continuously added to and the collections extended. A large selection of all topics is available at www.embroideryonline.com or at your BERNINA dealer's.

Connecting the USB embroidery designs stick

plug stick into provided port on embroidery computer (note symbol) the contents can be accessed via screen

Removing the USB embroidery designs stick

pull stick out

Note:

If you want to combine designs from different embroidery designs sticks, you will have to save the individual motifs into the memory of the embroidery computer first

(refer to pages 248-249). Then the motifs can be taken from the memory to combine them.

Caution:

Do not remove the embroidery designs stick from the embroidery computer when in process.

BERNINA artista Embroidery Software

3

Use the BERNINA artista PC software to combine, extend, and change existing motifs on a personal computer (PC). The software even allows you to create motifs all on your own. The whole design process lies in your hands: from first draft, to final transformation into embroidery stitching, the choices are all yours!

The finished designs you have created are transferred via a USB connecting cable directly to the embroidery computer, where you can embroider them. The USB connecting cable comes with the embroidery module.

3 PC connection Plugging USB Connecting Cable from the PC into the

Embroidery Computer

plug USB connecting cable into socket provided on the right hand side of embroidery computer (look for symbol)

Embroidery Design (PC) Saving Options

• on PC

•

•

• on artista 730 embroidery computer on a personal design card on a BERNINA USB Memory Stick

Note:

The BERNINA artista embroidery software includes user instructions!

Ask your BERNINA dealer for other accessories for your embroidery computer!

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Glossary

Add

• to add means to combine by addition, to join, to increase

• adding a new motif

Edit

• to edit, to write

• motifs are edited in the screen (Edit 1 or Edit 2, for example mirrored, scaled, etc.) auto

• for example in connection with sewing buttonholes:

• if the length is preprogrammed «auto» appears, i.e.

the buttonhole is stitched in the programmed length automatically (by itself)

ESC

• closing a function, going back to original position

(e.g. to original screen settings) auto/repeat

• to repeat means to redo, hence auto repeat redoing something by itself

• keeping the external needle position button pressed leads to rapid automatic moving of the needle position (by itself)

Help

• help, to help, to assist

• a program that is built into the sewing and embroidery computer which gives e.g. information

(help) on stitches, functions, etc. Balance

• to balance a stitch or motif means to alter a stitch or sideways motion stitch to correct distortions

Fall

• autumn

• the artista 730 embroidery designs are divided into the four seasons – spring, summer, fall and winter

Calibrate

• to calibrate, to gauge, to measure

• calibrating means determining measures, setting the screen or the embroidery module

History

• history, record, development

• artista 730 displays a maximum of 15 most recently selected and sewn stitches in the «History» function

Check

• to check, to examine, to inspect

• when embroidering, the computer checks which embroidery hoop is mounted, and «travels» the fabric to check on the position of the motif manual

• a manual buttonhole is sewn in four or six steps

(depending on the type of buttonhole). The sewer manually changes the positions on screen.

Mega-Hoop

• mega means very large, hoop means frame

• extra large embroidery hoop for stitching very large motifs or long borders clr (clear)

• to clear, to delete

• functions or commands can be deleted and reset to the original position

Duplicate

• to duplicate means to double, to copy, to multiply

(making exact copies)

• duplicating a motif means that the active motif is copied exactly

Memory

• store

• programs and data are saved and prepared for processing

• the memory of the sewing and embroidery computer can be used to save e.g. stitch combinations or motifs

Menu

• summary, overview, selection of functions

• z.B. Alphabetauswahl

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Glossary – artista 730

265


• a Modem or Ethernet Card is used to transfer data to the artista 730 sewing and embroidery computer via the phone network

Ready

• prepared, waiting to begin

• «ready» in the Embroidery menu (Ready) means that the motif can be stitched immediately

New

• opening a new motif

OK

• confirming the command entered or change that has been made recording

• to record, to preserve, to tape

• the stitch counter records or programs the number of stitches used

• the stitch counter records the stitched length of a buttonhole

PC

• Personal Computer

Reset

• to set again, to put back, to restore

• a change made is undone, i.e. reset to the original settings

Peripheral

• device that is not part of the central unit of a computer system

• artista 730 for example features a Modem or a

Ethernet Card as peripherals scroll

• to browse

• if a comprehensive file (e.g. selection of stitches) cannot be displayed in full, the «scroll» tool can be used to display further sections on screen pop-up

• pop-up menu («pops up» or opens suddenly)

• special screen that opens, listing entries from which to select, when touching the arrow next to an entry bar sensor

• signal receiver, measuring sensor

Portal

• door, gate, entrance

• special information source for artista 730

• the Portal especially designed for artista 730 is myartista Portal. On connecting the BERNINA

Modem or Ethernet Card and selecting the function

«Portal» your artista 730 sewing computer connects with myartista Portal, from where you can e.g. download motifs

Setup

• to determine, to begin

• structure

• in the Setup Program you can for example adjust your personal requirements software

• generic term for programs (i.e. computer programs)

• as opposed to hardware, which is the term used to describe any physical or tangible components of a computer (e.g. the casing, motor, etc.)

Provider

• someone who offers communication services (e.g.

access to the Internet)

• the Provider opens access to the myartista Portal for artista 730. There are various Providers. You are free to choose any of them. Enter Provider name,

Provider number, user name and password to make the connection

Spring

• spring (the season)

• the artista 730 motifs are divided into the four seasons spring , summer, fall and winter

Summer

• the artista 730 motifs are divided into the four seasons spring, summer , fall and winter

Pull Compensation

• adjusting excessive spacing/overlap of motif

• is used for example when the outline is not correct or the motif is distorted touch screen

• sensor screen

• touch-sensitive surface. Touch the symols/keys on the screen with a finger or pen

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Tutorial

• self-help program for learning about various sewing and embroidery computer features

Update

• latest version

• updating the sewing and embroidery computer software: installing a new version

Upgrade

• to take to a higher level

• upgrading the sewing and embroidery computer means improving or extending its functions

USB

• Universal Serial Bus

• the sewing and embroidery computer provides for

USB connections

Windows CE

• CE stands for Consumer Electronic

• the operating system used with artista 730 sewing and embroidery computers

Winter

• winter

• the artista 730 motifs are divided into the four seasons spring, summer, fall and winter

Zoom

• to focus on, to enlarge, to rescale

• motifs can be ‘zoomed’ (enlarged or reduced view of motif)

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267

Practical Stitches

Buttonholes

16 Directions Sewing 4 Directions Sewing

Decorative Stitches 9mm / 40mm

268

Stitch Summary – artista 730

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269

270


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Zodiacs

Quilt Stitches

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271

Alphabets

272


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273

Spring

Daffodils

160 137

51

Iris

171 137

52

Little pansies

57

12

37

Floral wreath

96

11

98

Butterfly

61

27

94

88 Width in mm

127 Length in mm

51 Embroidery time in minutes

274

Embroidery Design Collection – artista 730

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Summer

Little wild rose

62

14

58

White rose

196 119

88

Fuchsia

216 134

65

Flowers with butterfly

61

13

127

Lace border

52

34

148

Daisy

50 36

4


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275

Fall

3 Quilts

49

23

153

Quiltoutline

140 140

7

Mushrooms

121 121

56

Sunflower

158 111

55

Grape leaf

97 61

13

276


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Winter

Sprig of pine

178 105

65

Holly and bird

120 119

55

Holly and heart

164 114

40

Royal fdl

66 46

13

Lace heart

95 126

37


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277

Alphabets

Alice

Font height: min. 8mm / max. 50mm

Blackboard


Childs Play


Cursive


Drifter


King Charles


Lisa London

Font height: min. 13mm / max. 75mm Font height: min. 8mm / max. 50mm

Swiss block


Varsity block


278


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Index

A



• Connecting Stitches 95

Accessories 262-264

• artista Embroidery

Software 264

• Embroidery Cards 263

• Embroidery Mega-Hoop 263

• Embroidery USB Sticks 264

• Suitcase System 262

Accessory Box 10

Accessories Embroidery 197-198

Accessories Sewing 10

Adjusting Motifs 242

Alphabets, Lettering for

Embroidery 234-239

• Altering Lettering 235-237

• Combining Lettering 237-238

• Combining Letters 234

• Combining Motifs and

Lettering 238-239

• Correcting Letters 234

Alphabets, Lettering for Sewing 97-108

• Change Size 101

• Combining Lettering 100

• Combining Lettering and

Functions 101-102

• Correcting Combinations 102, 108

• Monogramming Information 103

• Monogram Size 1 104-106

• Monogram Size 2 107-108

• Selecting 99

• Select Lower Case 101

• Summary 98

Altering Motifs 227-230

• Adjust the Motif Height or Width 230

• Enlarging or Reducing Motif

Proportionally 229

• Mirroring Motifs 227-228

Altering Needle Position 24

Altering Stitch Length 23

Altering Stitch Width 23

Attaching the

Embroidery Hoop 204

Attaching the

Embroidery Module 199

B

Balance

• Buttonholes 113

• Practical and Decorative

Stitches 183

• Sideways Motion Stitches 184

Bartack Program

Basting Stitch

Blind Hem 52

Bobbin case:

Buttonholes

49

71 removing/inserting

109-133

13

Bringing up the Lower Thread 15

• Automatic Buttonhole Standard and Stretch 119-120

• Automatic Buttonhole with Direct

Entry Length 116

• Automatic Buttonhole with Button

Measuring on Screen 117

• Automatic Round, Keyhole and

Hand-look Buttonhole 121-122

• Balance for Buttonholes 113

• Bound Buttonhole 129-130

• Buttonhole in Long

Term Memory 118

• Buttonhole Program

Functions 111

• Corded Buttonhole 114-115

• Decorative Buttonholes 131

• Height Compensating Plate for

Buttonholes 115

• Important Information 112

• In General 111

• Manual 4 or 6 Step

Buttonhole 125-126

• Stitch Counter


• Straight Stitch


• Summary

110

Button Sew-on Program 132

C

Calculating New

Embroidery Data 228

Changing the Needle 15

Changing the Presser Foot 21

Cleaning and Maintenance 185

Combining Motifs 231-233

• Adding Another Motif 231

• Corrections and Alterations in the

Motif Combination 233

• Creating Motif Combination 232

• Duplicating Existing Motif 231

Connecting Peripherals 194 , 261

Connecting the Adapter for Free

Arm Embroidery 200

Creative Consultant 181-182

Cross Stitches 81

D

Darning Manual 68

Darning Program 67

Decorative Stitches 73-96

• Applications 75-76

• Combining Decorative Stitches and Functions 77-78

• Decorative Stitches in the Combi

Mode 79-80

• Selecting 75

• Summary 74

Details of the Embroidery

Module 196

Details of the Sewing

Computer 8-9

Different Stitch Types 216-217

• Fancy-Fill Stitches 217

• Jump Stitches 217

• Outline Stitches 217

• Satin Stitch 216

• Step Stitch 216

• Underlay Stitches 216

Double Overlock Seam 55

E

Edgestitching 43-44

Elastic Edges 66

Embroidering Borders 245

Embroidering Lace 244

Embroidery Design

Collection 274-277

Embroidery Motifs 224-225

• Embroidering Motif 225

• Motif Information 224

• Select Hoop 224

• View Motif in Detail (Zoom) 225

Embroidery Stabilizers 219-220

Embroidery Test 216

Embroidery Threads 218

Ethernet Card 192-193 , 260

External Functions

• Embroidery/

Sewing Mode Switch 213

• Stitch Width/

Stitch Length Knobs 213

External Function Buttons

• Altering Needle Position 28

• Automatic Thread

Cutter 28 , 213

• Creative Consultant 28

• Clr (Clear) Button 28

• Favorite Function Button 28

• Pattern End (on head frame) 28

• Quick Reverse Button on Head

Frame 28 , 213

• Setup Button 28

• Tutorial 28

Eyelet Programs 133

F

Fabric, Needle, Threads 17

Feed Dog

• Feed Dog and Fabric Feed 22

• Feed Dog Up/Down 21

• Lowered Feed Dog 33

• Sewing Corners 22

FHS (Free Hand System) 11

Flat Joining Seam 57

Fly Stitches 72

Foot Control 11

Free Arm Embroidery 243

Freehand Embroidery 70

Functions and Displays for

Embroidery

• Add Motif 208

• Check 207

• Color Information Bar 211

• Color Motif Display 208

• Color Numbers 207

• Delete 208

• Duplicate Motif 208

Index – artista 730

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279

• Embroidery Menu (Ready) 208

• Embroidery Sequence

Control 212

• Embroidery Speed 212

• Embroidery Time 207 , 211

• Help («?») 208 , 212

• Hoop Display 211

• Hoop Relocator 211

• Horizontal Mirror

Image (left/right) 209

• Letter Manipulation 210

• Motif Center 207

• Motif Information 207

• Motif Properties 210

• Motif Size 207 , 211

• Move Hoop 212

• Move Motif 209

• New Motif 208

• Retrieve 208

• Rescale Motif Height or Width 209

• Rescale Motif

Proportionally 209

• Rotate Motif 209

• Save 209

• Screen Edit 1 207

• Screen Edit 2 207

• Select Hoop 207

• Single/Multi Color Motif 212

• Show Grid 208

• Thread Tension 211

• To Next Page – Edit 1 210

• To Next Page – Edit 2 209

• To Screen Edit 1

211

• Vertical Mirror

Image (up/down) 209

• Zoom 208

Functions General

• Combi Mode 29

• ESC 29 , 206

• Help («?») 29, 206

• OK

29

• Return to Selection Menu 206

• Scroll Down 29 , 206

• Scroll Up 29 , 206

• Single Mode 29

• Spinning Spool 206

Functions Special

• Alphabet Size 31

• Balance 32

• Combination Sub-divider (1) 31

• Combination Sub-divider (2) 31

• Continuous Reverse Sewing 33

• Delete 31

• Direct Entry Length (in mm) or Onscreen Button Measurement 31

• File Drawers 33

• History 33

• Horizontal Mirror

Image (left/right) 30

• Indication of the Altered Stitch

Width or Stitch Length 30

• Long Stitch 30

• Lowered Feed Dog 33

• Manual 4 or 6 Step

Buttonhole 31

• Monogram Size 31

280


• Motor Speed 32

• Multifunction Button 31

• myartista Portal 33

• Needle Stop Adjustment

• Pattern Begin

• Pattern Extend 2-5x

• Pattern Repeat 1-9x

• Vertical Mirror Image

G

Gathering Stitch

Glossary 265-267

63

30

32

• Presser Foot Indicator 30

• Programming Buttonhole

Length

• Save 31

31

• Upper Case/Lower Case 31

(up/down) 30

30

• Securing Function

(with 4 stitches) 32

• Security Program

• Stitch Counter 31

32

31

• Stitch Selection by Number

• Thread Tension 32

33

Needle Threader 15

P

Patching Knits and Jersey 69

Peripherals 192-194

Personal Program 153-156

• Altering Stitches 156

• Deleting Stitches 155

• Programming Screen 154

• Selecting Stitches 155

Positioning Motif 226-227

• Check the Motif Position 227

• Checking Motif Center 227

• Move Motif 226

• Rotate Motif 226

Power Cable 11

Power Switch 11

Practical Stitches 35-72

• Adjusting Individual

Practical Stitches 38

• Practical Stitches in the

Combi Mode 79-80

• Practical Stitch Seams 38

• Sewing Knit Fabrics 53

• Summary 36-37

Preparing the Embroidery

Computer for Embroidery 201

Presser Feet 20

Presser Foot Indicator 24

Presser Foot Pressure 21

Pull Compensation 242

H

Heirloom Techniques 82-88

• Corded Scallops 88

• Hemstitching 83

• Pintucks 84-86

• Scallops Off the Edge 87

• Sewing Lace 82

Help Program 178

Hems With Double Needle

Hooping the Fabric

J

L

Long Stitch 40

221-222

Honeycomb Stitch Edges

I

Important Embroidery

Information 215-218

Important Facts about Thread and

Needles 17

Important Safety Instructions 1-2

Inserting the Bobbin 14

Jersey Overlock Seam

M

Messages

Modem

188-190

192-193 ,

,

55

60

54

256-258

260

Motif Colors 240-241

• Embroidering Individual

Color Sections 241

• Embroidering Lettering in

Multi Colors 241

• Embroidering Motifs in

One Color 241

• Reallocating Motif Colors or

Thread Brands 240

Motif Information 224

Needle Summary 18-19

Needle/Thread Combination 18

Needle, Thread, Fabric 17

Q

Quilt Stitches 135-152

• Blanket Stitches 145

• Decorative Quilt Stitches 142

• Different Techniques 137

• Freehand Quilting 148

• Hand-look Quilt Stitch 141

• Piecing Stitch/Straight Stitch 140

• Quilters Securing Program 138

• Quilting Straight Stitch 139

• Satin Stitch 143-144

• Summary 136

• Turned-edge

Appliqués 146-147

Quilting with BSR 149-152

• Activating the BSR

Sewing Function 151

• Application with Straight

Stitch or Zig-zag 151

• Beeper Deactivation/

Activation 151

• BSR Function Deactivation 151

• BSR Mode 1 149

• BSR Mode 2 149

• Deactivating the BSR Sewing

Function 151


• Preparation 150

• Using Function in the

BSR Mode 150

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R

Reinforced Edges on

Woven Fabric 62

Reinforced Overlock Seam 56

Restoring the Basic Settings 24

Ribbing Finish 61

Ribbing With Overlock Seam 59

Run Length 242

S

Saving Altered Settings

Permanently 24-25

Saving and Deleting

Motifs 247-252

• Deleting a Saved Motif 251

• Deleting All Saved Motifs 252

• Overwriting Motifs 250-251

• Saving to a

Personal Design Card 249

• Saving to a Personal

Memory Stick 250

• Saving to the Embroidery

Computer 248-249

Saving and Deleting Stitches and

Stitch Combinations 157-162

• Correcting Stitch

Combinations 161

• Deleting Drawer 162

• Drawer Content at a Glance 160

• Empty Stitch Altering Area 159


• Mirroring Entire

Combination 162

• Opening Empty Drawer 160

• Opening Saved

Combination 160

• Programming and Saving Stitch

Combinations 158-159

• Sub-dividing Combinations 162

Screen 12

Securing Stitch 42

Selecting Embroidery

Motifs 202-203

Selecting Functions 24

Selecting the

Embroidery Hoop 204 , 207

Setup Program 163-175

• Customize Favorite

Function Button 170

• Display Settings 165

• Embroidery Settings 167-168

• Hardware 175

• Information

170-171


• Messages and Audio

Settings 172-173

• Portal Provider Settings

174

• Reset to Factory 175

• Sewing Settings 166

• Text in Welcome Screen 165

• Touch (Screen Sensibility)

169

Sewing Knit Fabrics 53

Sewing on Narrow Elastic

With Universal Stitch 64

Sewing on Wide Elastic 65

Shadow Embroidery 246

Sideways Motion Stitches 89-93

• Automatic Connection With 16

Directional Sewing 92-93

• Combining Manually With

Templates 91

• In General 89-90

Simple Menu Selection 26-27

Slide-on Table 12

Spool Pin

• horizontal 13 , 14 , 16 , 201

• vertical 16

Starting to Embroider 204-205

Stitch Density 242

Stitch Plates 17

Stitch Selection 23 , 25

Stitch Summary 268-273

Straight Stitch 41

Stretch Overlock Seam 56

Summary of the Contents 5

Super Stretch/Stretch Seam 56

T

Temporary Altered

Stitch Memory 24 , 39

Thread Breakage 254

Thread Cutter

• Automatic Thread

Cutter 28, 213

• on Bobbin Winder 13

• on Head Frame 15

Thread Tension 34

Thread, Needle, Fabric 17

Threading the Bobbin Thread 201

Threading the Upper

Thread 14 , 201

• Double Needle, Triple Needle 16

Triple Straight Stitch 48

Trouble Shooting 186 , 255

Tutorial 179-180

Tutorial USB Stick 193

V

Vari-Overlock Seam 55

Visible Hem With Jersey Stitch 58

Visible Hem With Triple Zig-zag 51

W

Winding the Bobbin 13

Z

Zig-zag Stitch 50

Zippers 45-47

Zoom (View Motif in Detail) 225

05/09 GB/USA 032 131 70 04

032131.70.04_0509_a730_EN


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