Chrysler Dodge Monaco 1966, Dodge Polara 1966 Service Manual

Chrysler Dodge Polara 1966 is a vehicle that offers a range of features designed to provide a comfortable and efficient driving experience. These features include a focus on fuel economy, a variety of body styles to choose from, a powerful engine, and a spacious interior.

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INTRODUCTION

LICENSE

DATA

The following method of numbering vehicles and their engines will be used on the 1966 models.

The starting vehicle number will be as follows:

DODGE MODELS

POLARA

DE41D63-100001

MONACO

VEHICLE NUMBER LOCATION

The vehicle number

(serial number) is located on a plate which is attached to the left door hinge pillar post. (Fig. 1).

VEHICLE NUMBERS

All vehicle numbers contain 13 digits. The vehicle number is a code which tells the make of car (1st digit), model of car (2nd digit), body style (3rd and

4th digit), engine displacement (5th digit), model year (6th digit), assembly plant (7th digit) and vehicle serial number (last six digits).

1st

Digit

CAR

MAKE

D-Polara

D-Monaco

2nd Digit

MODEL

3rd and 4th Digit

BODY STYLE

E-Economy 21-2 Door Sedan

L-Low 23-2 Door Hardtop

H-H igh 27-Converti ble

P-Premium 4 1 - 4 Door Sedan

K-Police 4 3 - 4 Door Hardtop

T-Taxi 45-9 Pass. Sta.Wag.

4 5 - 6 Pass. Sta. Wag.

5th Digit

ENGINE IDENT.

DISPLACEMENT

D-318 Cu.

F-383

Cu.

In.

H-426 Cu.

In.

6th Digit

YEAR

1966

7th Digit

ASSEMBLY PLANT

&Jefferson

4-Belvidere

6-Newark

%Windsor

BODY NUMBER LOCATION

The body number is stamped on a plate which is attached to the left front wheel house and will show trim code, paint code, body type and schedule date.

INCLUDES SOME SPECIAL AND

STANDARD EQUIPMENT

TO AGREE

WITH CAR ORDERED

TRIM'

INCLUDES ;ATE AND BOD?

MONTH OF YEAR AND CODE

ORDER NUMBER NUMBER

CODE

NUMBER

PAINT

CODE

NUMBER

NK1175

All information, illustrations and specifications in this manual are based on information available at the time of publication. We reserve the right to make changes at any time without notice. The service tools referred to in this Manual are available through the Kelsey-Hayes Company. Miller Special Tools 17640 Grand

River Avenue, Detroit, Michigan, 48227 U.S.A. unless otherwise specified.

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INTRODUCTION

FACTORY CONTRACT

The following outline of the proper procedure to use in obtaining assistance or advice on any matter applying to Service will insure your inquiries receiving prompt attention and handling. Make certain those mem- bers of your organization who might have the occasion to contact either your Regional Office or the Factory, are thoroughly familiar with this procedure. All matters pertaining in any way to Warranty Repair Orders, or of a technical nature, should be handled by you direct with your Regional Service Office. When in doubt as to the proper procedure to follow in the handling of a claim or complaint, proper results can be obtained through a letter, telegram or phone call to your Regional Service Office-making certain to include all necessary information. If the aid of a Service Representative is necessary, the Regional Office will arrange for his contact as promptly as circumstances permit.

Letters or telegrams to the Regional Service Office, should be confined to one subject only and should include the following information:

Car Serial Number

Date of Sale

Owner's Name

Mileage

Complete description

of

difficulty, corrective action taken, your recommendations as to what should be done and the reason for so doing.

Include Paint and Trim Code Numbers where finish, upholstery, body or sheet metal is involved, and estimate of net cost of repairs.

DODGE D I V I S I O N

With the exception of orders for parts or parts literature, all requests for Service literature such as

Service Bulletins, Service Manuals, Owner Manuals, Time Schedules, W.R.O.'s or other Service literature, should be addressed to:

(Letters)

Chrysler Corporation

Dodge Division

Service Department

P.O. Box

1259

Detroit, Michigan

48231

(Telegrams)

Dodge Division

Attention,

(Name of person to whom sent) wux

Detroit

,

Michigan

(Phone) Area Code

313

872-6100

NOTE: Please make certain to include Code

WUX on all telegrams to the Dodge Division as this insures delivery direct to our Teleprint Room thus eliminating delqy.

MASTER TECHNICIANS SERVICE CONFERENCE

All correspondence concerning enrollment in the M.T.S.C. Program, changes in enrollment records

(the adding or dropping of personnel), issuance tional material, the return

of of

awards, status of enrolled personnel, orders for addi- questionnaires, or any other matters relating to this program should be addressed to:

Master Technician Service Conference

Chrysler Corporation Training Center

Service Development and Training Office

P.O. Box

2119

Detroit, Michigan

48231

(Phone)

539-3000

Area Code

313

PARTS D I V I S I O N

When parts and accessories are not immediately available from your local source

supply and to insure for fastest delivery, please follow the

"IMPORTANT ORDERING INFORMATION"

as outlined in the

"MASTER PARTS PRICE LIST"

published by the Parts Division of Chrysler Motors Corporation.

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GROUP

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

CONTENTS

ALTER N AT0 R

.........................

Page

HEADLIGHTS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Page

8 BATTERY

............................

HOISTING

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4 BODY MAINTENANCE

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

18 HOOD LOCKS

.........................

BRAKES

.............................

6 HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM

. . . . . . . . . .

6 CARBURETOR AIR CLEANER

. . . . . . . . . .

MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE

. . . . . .

12 CARBURETOR CHOKE SHAFT..

. . . . . . . .

MATERIALS ADDED TO ENGINE OILS

CERTIFIED CAR CARE

.................

PARKING BRAKE MECHANISM

. .

. . . . . . . . .

8

6

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

CLASSIFICATION OF LUBRICANTS

. . . . . .

PARTS REQUIRING NO LUBRICATION.

. . .

19 CLUTCH LINKAGE (Manual Transmission) .

PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL

JOINTS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

COOLING SYSTEM

....................

REAR

AXLE

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM

....

9 SPEEDOMETER CABLE

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

DISTRIBUTOR

........................

7 STEERING GEAR

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

ENGINE OIL FILTER

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

ENGINE OIL-SELECTION OF

SUMMARY OF LUBRICATION AND

. . . . . . . . . .

8 MAINTENANCE SERVICES

. . . . . . . . . . . .

ENGINE PERFORMANCE EVALUATION..

11 TIRES

................................

FREQUENCY OF

OIL CHANGES

. . . . . . . .

8 TRANSMISSION

.......................

FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

16 TRANSMISSION (Automatic)

. . . . . . . . . . .

16 FUEL FILTER

.........................

WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADES..

. . . . . . . .

8 CERTIFIED CAR CARE

Certified Car Care is a thorough servicing program that helps make sure the cars you sell receive the regular attention you know they need.

Certified Car Care helps build business for you in the best way known-through customer satisfaction.

Inform your customers that the best approach to trouble-free driving is Certified Car Care.

This is a practical plan to help you build up sales and service volume, by providing regular service customer visits.

SUMMARY OF LUBRICATION AND

MA1 NTENANCE SERVICES

Maintenance and lubrication service recommendations for the

1966

Chrysler Corporation-built Dodge vehicles have been compiled to provide maximum protection for the car owner's investment against all reasonable types of driving conditions.

Since these conditions vary with the individual car owner's driving habits, the area in which the car is operated and the type of service to which the car is subjected, it is necessary to prescribe lubrication and maintenance service on a time frequency as well as mileage interval basis.

Vehicles operated under conditions not classified as normal service for passenger cars, such as in trailer towing service; operation at higher than normal loading or police or taxicab operation, require servicing at more frequent intervals. This information is included in each group under appropriate headings.

Information pertaining to Lubrication and Mainte- nance requirements is shown on chart (Fig. 1) and on page 3.

C LASS1 FlCATlO N OF LUBRICANTS

Oils and lubricants are classified and graded according to standards recommended by the Society of

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0-2

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

L U B R I C A T I O N A N D M A I N T E N A N C E C H A R T

PSF

Engine O i l Filter-Replace every second oil

\ change.

Battery-Check level every 2 months.

P o w e r Steering Reservoir every

months. Add fluid, i f necessary, to restore to prescribed level.

O i l Filler Pipe Breather Cap (1)-Wash in kerosene and reoil with SAE 3 0 engine oil every

months.

Engine O i l D i p Stick-When refueling, check engine oil level.

Engine Oil-Drain and refill every 3 months or 4,000 miles, whichever occurs first. See

Viscosity Chart below:

Multigrade.

SAE l o w - 3 0 Where iemperatures are consistently or

SAE

2OW-40 above 32°F.

SAE

1OW-30 Suitable for year long operation in many parts o f the

U.S.;

may be used where temperatures occasionally drop

low

10°F.

SAE 5W-20 Recommended where minimum tempera tures are consistently below

SAE 3 0

SAE 1OW

Single Grades

Where temperatures are consistent1 above 32°F.

Where temperatures range betwee

$32"F. and -

SOL or

M P

M a n u a l Steering Gear-Check level ever

months. Add lubricant, i f necessary, t cover worm gear.

MML o r

Column-Mounted M a n u a l Transmission

Gearshift Controls-If noisy or shifting effor

A M G (2) i s objectionable, lubricate contact surfaces.

HTF Brake Master Cylinder-Check fluid leve every

months. I f below

% inch from top o reservoir, a d d fluid to restore level.

MML

Front Suspension Ball Joints-Inspect seal and joints every

months, or whenever car

' serviced for any other reason. Redac damaged seals or joints. Relubricate every

3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first.

MML

Steering l i n k a g e Ball Joints-Inspect seals and joints every

months, or whenever car i s serviced for any other reason. Replace damaged seals and joints. Relubricate every

3 years or 36,000 miles, whiehever occurs first.

MML or

Clutch Torque Shaft Bearings-Inspect for wear and relubricate every 3 years or

A M G (2) 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first.

MML a r

Clutch Release Bearing Sleeve, Releose

Fork a n d Fork Pivot-If effort required to

A M G (2) depress pedal i s excessive or linkage i s noisy,

EO lubricate contact surfaces.

Floor-Mounted M a n u a l Transmission Gear-

/ shift Controls-If operation becomes difficult, apply

few drops o f light engine oil to the mechanism from under the vehicle.

[ l ) See " C r a n k c a s e V e n t i l a t i o n System Servicing"

KEY TO LUBRICANTS

A A Automatic Transmission

Fluid, AO-ATF, Suffix "A"

A M G Automotive Multi-Purpose

(2) Grease-NLGI-Grade 2

CC Carburetor Cleaner

DCL Cam Lubricant

EO Engine O i l

Part No.*

184331 4

1643273

1473595

HL Hypoid Lubricant

HTF High Temperature Brake Fluid

MML Multi-Mileage Lubricant

M P Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant

2585317

2421352

2525035

PSF Power Steering Fluid 2084329

Manifold Heat Control Valve Solvent 1879318

(0)

Universal Joint Grease, NLGI-Grade

SGL Sure-Grip Lubricant

'See Alternate Specifkatians

In Individual

Paragraphs.

258531 8

N O R M A L S E R V I C E

Position for lift adapter

Prepacked bearing

Cooling system drain

Engine Coolant-Check level and/or anti- freeze every

2 months.

C a r b u r e t o r F u e l F i l t e r

Replace e v e r y

24,000 miles or every

2 years, whichever occurs first.

Distributor O i l Cup-Apply 5 to light engine oil to cup every

10 drops

months.

Distributor Rotor Felt Wick-When servicing breaker contacts, apply 2 or 3 drops of light engine oil to wick under rotor.

Distributor Cam a n d Rubbing Block-

When servicing breaker contacts, apply thin film of lubricant to cam and black surfaces.

Carburetor A i r Cleaner-Paper Element

Type-Clean element every

months and replace every 2 years. Oil Bath Type-Check sediment level every second oil change. Clean and reoil with SAE 1OW-30 engine oil once

year.

Carburetor Choke Shaft-Apply solvent to each end o f shaft, where it enters air horn, every

months.

M o n i f o l d Heat Control Valve-Apply solvent to each end of shaft every

months.

C r a n k c a s e V e n t i l a t i o n S y s t e m ( W i t h

Silenced A i r Cleaner) ( 1 )-Inspect system and service every

months.

Crankcase Ventilation System (With N o n -

Silenced A i r Cleaner) ( 1 system and service every oil change.

Automatic Transmission-Check fluid level every

months. Add fluid, i f necessary, to restore to prescribed level.

Engine Tune-Up-Evaluate engine performance every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first, and tune, i f necessary.

SGL

Bod

A M G (2) Front Brake Assemblies a n d Wheel Bear- ings-Inspect brake linings for wear and wheel bearings far lubricant every 18 months or 18,000 miles, whichever occurs first.

Also,

lubricate pedal bushings.

M a n u a l Transmission-Check every fluid level

months. If below bottom of flller hole, add lubricant to restore to prescribed level.

Universal Joints-Inspect seals for external leakage or damage every

months. Dis- assemble and relubricate only i f leakage i s noted.

Rear A x l e a n d Sure-Grip-Check fluid level every

months. Add prescribed fluid, i f necessary, to restore level between bottom of filler hole to

'/z

inch below hole.

Mechanisms-See Body Maintenance Section.

T I R E PRESSURES (PSI) (COLD)

Models

All models except Station Wagons

2 4

All Station Wagons

Above pressures for Average Rated load. See

"Tires", Group 22, for tire sizes and additianol pressure recommendations.

NN675

Fig. I-Lubrication Chart

CAPACITIES

Engine 011

(Add 1 qt. when replacing flltcr)

Cooling System

(3 18 Cu. In. Engine)

(383, 4 2 6 Cu. In. Engine)

(Add 1 qt. for heater)

Rear Axle

Transmission

TorqueFlite

Manual

3-Speed

4-Speed

Fuel Tank

All exc. Station Wagon

Station Wagon

4 qts

21 qts.'

1 7 qts.*'

4 pts

18.5 pts

6 pts.

pts

25 gals.

22 gals.

(See "Fuel" Section far proper cap application and fuel tank venting.)

*w/Trl. Tow, A/C or

Rad.

'*w/Trl. Taw, A/C or CAP

22 qts.

18 qts.

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SERVICE

INTERVAL

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

LUBRICATION

AND

M A I N T E N A N C E SERVICES

ERVl CE

ITEM

0-3

Oil Change

Every 6 Months

Miles whichever

When Necessary

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0-4 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

Automotive Engineers (SAE), the American Petrole- um Institute (API) and the National Lubricating

Grease Institute (NLGI).

Engine Oil

The SAE grade number indicates the viscosity of engine oils, for example SAE 30, which is a single grade oil. Engine oils are also identified by a dual number, for example SAE multi-grade oil.

The API designation indicates the classification of engine oils for use under certain operating conditions.

Only engine oils designated “For Service

MS”

should be used. These oils contain sufficient chemical additives to provide maximum engine protection. Both the

SAE grade and the API designation must be found on the container.

Gear Lubricants

The SAE grade number also indicates the viscosity of Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricants, defined by M I L L

2105B. An example is SAE

75,

which is a light viscosity lubricant.

Lubricants-Greases

Semi-solid grease lubricants, such as specified for propeller shaft universal joints, bear the NLGI designation. They are further classified as grades

“2.”

Hoisting

Special care should be taken when raising the iehi-

+ cle on a frame contact type hoist. The hoist must be equipped with the proper adapters in order that the vehicle will be supported in the correct locations (Fig.

2).

Conventional hydraulic hoists may be used after determining that the adapter plates will make firm contact with the lower control arms and the rear axle housing.

A regular floor jack may be used under the rear axle housing, or under the front suspension lower control arms,

however, a floor jack must never be used on any parts of the underbody.

CAUTION:

Do not attempt to raise one entire side of the vehicle by placing a jack midway between a front and rear wheels. This practice may result in permanent damage to the body.

The bumpers are designed to accept a bumper jack in an emergency, if it becomes necessary to change a tire on the road. Notches are provided in the bumpers for the purpose of raising the vehicle with the bumper jack.

CHASSIS LUBRICATION

Front Suspension Ball Joints

The front suspension ball joints (Fig. 3), are semi- permanently lubricated with special lubricant at the factory. Relubrication is required every 3 years or

36,000 miles, whichever occurs first. The ball joints, however, should be inspected every six months, or whenever vehicle is serviced for other reasons, for

20 SQ.“

MINIMUM

FOUR PADS

a

FRONT WHEELS

REAR

WHEELS

Fig. 2-Support Locations

for

Frame Contact Hoisting

PAD POSITION WITHIN

THESE LIMITS SATISFACTORY

NN193

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-__-

Fig.

3-Upper and Lower Ball Joint

Lubrication Points

damage to seals which can result in loss of lubricant.

Clean accumulated dirt and lubricant from outside surface of seals to permit thorough inspection. Re- place damaged seals or joints immediately to prevent contamination of lubricant or damage to parts. Lubri- cate ball joints, if necessary.

When lubricating control arm ball joints, use only the special long-life chassis greases intended for this purpose. Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number this type recommended for all Chrysler Corporation vehicles. Remove threaded plug from each ball joint and

temporarily

install lubrication fittings. Inject lubricant until it flows freely from seal bleed area at base of seal. Stop when seal begins to balloon. Remove fittings and reinstall threaded plugs.

If high pressure lubrication equip ment is used, stop filling when the lubricant begins to flow freely from the bleed area at the base or at the top of the seal, or if the seal begins to balloon.

Steering Linkage Ball Joints

The four tie rod end ball joints and the steering gear arm ball joint (Fig.

are semi-permanently lu-

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

0-5

bricated with a special lubricant at the factory.

Relubrication of tie rod ball joints is required every

years or

36,000

ball joints, however, should be inspected every six months, or whenever vehicle is serviced for other reasons, for damage to seals which can result in loss of lubricant.

When inspecting ball joints, clean accumulated dirt and lubricant from outside surfaces of seals to permit thorough inspection. Replace damaged seals or joints immediately to prevent contamination of lubricant or failure of parts. Lubricate ball joints, if necessary.

When lubricating steering linkage ball joints, use only the special long-life chassis greases intended for this purpose. Multi-Mileage Lubricant Part Number

2525035

is a lubricant of this type recommended for all Chrysler Corporation vehicles. Remove threaded plug from each ball joint and

temporarily

install a lubrication fitting. Inject lubricant until it flows freely from seal bleed area top or at base of seal. Stop when seal begins to balloon. Remove fittings and reinstall threaded plugs.

High pressure lubrication equip ment may be used if care i s taken to use an extremely slow rate to allow time to observe the lubricant bleed from the seal base.

REAR AXLE

Standard and Sure-Grip

The lubricant installed in the rear axle at time of assembly is a high quality product and regularly scheduled changes of the lubricant are not recommended in vehicles where operation is classified as normal passenger car service. The only exceptions, however, would be where the lubricant has become contaminated with water, or in the case of the

standard

rear axle, to provide the correct viscosity grade for the anticipated temperature range, as indicated by the accompanying table:

Anticipated Temperature Range Viscosity Grade

Above

A s low

Below

-30"

-30"

SAE

S A E 80

SAE 75

NK665

Fig. 4-Steering Linkage Lubrication Points

Fig. 5-Removing Rear Axle Lubricant

6 2 x 7 9 8

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0-6 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

If necessary to change lubricant, remove old lubricant with a suction pump (Fig. 5).

The fluid level, however, should be checked every

six

months. When checking the level, the car should be in a level position on a wheel or axle-type hoist.

The level should be between the bottom of the filler plug hole to one-half inch below.

To restore level in the standard rear axle, if necessary, add sufficient quantity of multi-purpose gear lubricant, as defined by MILG2105B. Such a lubricant is available under Part Number 2585317, Hypoid

Gear Lubricant.

Use the correct viscosity grade for the anticipated temperature ranges previously mentioned.

In Sure-Grip axles, use only the special multi- purpose gear lubricant intended for use in limited-slip differentials. Such a lubricant is available under Part

Number 25853 18, Special Sure-Grip Lubricant.

Trailer Towing Service

For vehicles equipped for trailer towing service, the rear axle lubricant should be changed periodically.

Drain and refill the axle with the specified lubricant every 36,000 miles or 3 years, whichever occurs first.

If the axle is submerged in water, such as on a boat launching ramp where water can enter the axle vent, and contamination is suspected or evident, replace the lubricant immediately to avoid early axle failure.

BRAKES

The brakes on all models equipped with drum brakes, except for some police cars and high-performance models, are equipper with self-adjusting features which make it unnecessary to perform major brake adjustments.

Inspect brake linings for wear every

18 months or

18,000 miles, whichever occurs first. At this time, lubricate contact areas of brake shoe supports with a very thin film of high-temperature, silicone type lubricating compound. Such a lubricant is available under Part Number 1881923, Sil-Glide.

To perform this service, remove brake shoes and clean contact areas. Smooth down with sandpaper before applying Sil-Glide.

HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM

Every six months check fluid level in master cylinder (Fig. 6). The level should be within one-quarter inch of top of reservoir.

CAUTION:

Before removing master cylinder cover and screw, wipe them clean to prevent dirt and other foreign matter from dropping into reservoir.

Replenish fluid, when necessary, with Heavy Duty

Hydraulic Brake Fluid, conforming to SAE 70R3 for best brake performance and greater safety. Such a fluid is available under Part Number 2421352, Hi-

Temp Brake Fluid.

Inspect brake hoses for cracking, abrasions, cuts or tears in outer covering. Examine all connections for fluid leakage and correct where necessary.

The plastic bushings at the upper end of the brake pedal should be serviced every 18 months or 18,000 miles, whichever occurs first, or at time of major brake service. The bushings, located on the brake pedal pivot on all models, should be removed, thoroughly cleaned and re-lubricated with an automotive multi-purpose grease such as Multi-Mileage Lubricant,

Part Number 2525035.

PARKING BRAKE MECHANISM

All models use a foot-operated lever (Fig. 7). Pivot points indicated should be lubricated occasionally to maintain ease of operation.

Apply a film of smooth, white body hardware lubricant conforming to NLGI, grade 1. Lubriplate, Part

Number 1964768, is a type of lubricant recommended for this purpose.

When the foot pedal can be depressed more than

Fig. 6-Master Cylinder

Fig. 7-Foot-Operated Parking Brake

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64 x 1728

Fig. 8-Clutch Torque Shaft and Linkage

Lubrication Points

four and one half inches, the brake cable should be adjusted. For adjusting procedure, refer to “Parking

Brakes,” Group

CLUTCH LINKAGE

(Manual Transmission)

Clutch Torque Shaft Bearings

Inspect clutch torque shaft bearings (Fig.

for wear and relubricate every

years or

36,000

miles, whichever occurs first. To perform this service, refer to “Clutch,” Group

After removing torque shaft assembly, disassemble and thoroughly clean all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect for wear. Damaged bearings and/or ball studs should be replaced.

When reassembling shaft, coat inside surfaces at ends of shaft, inside and outside surfaces of bearings and ball studs (Fig.

with Multi-Mileage Lubricant,

Part Number

2525035,

or Automotive Multi-Purpose

Grease, NLGI grade

Clutch Release Bearing Sleeve, Release Fork and

Fork

Pivot

Whenever the effort required to depress the clutch pedal becomes excessive, or when servicing clutch torque shaft bearings, lubricate sleeve, fork and pivot

(Fig.

8).

To gain access to these areas, remove clutch inspection plate (at bottom of clutch housing,) remove the fork seal and fork.

CAUTION: Care must be taken to avoid getting lubricant on clutch disc and/or pressure plate.

Fill cavity in sleeve and coat release fork pads on sleeve (Fig.

with Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part

Number

2525035,

or Automotive Multi-Purpose

Grease, NLGI grade

Apply a film of same lubricant on contact areas of fork fingers, pivot contact area of fork and fork pivot.

COOLING SYSTEM

Inspect a coolant level every two months and refill as necessary.

Drain, flush and refill cooling system once a year,

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-7

preferably in the Fall. If the system contains a considerable amount of sediment, clean and flush with a reliable cooling system cleaner. Follow with a thorough rinsing to remove all deposits.

Drain cooling system by removing drain plugs in sides of cylinder block and open drain cock in lower radiator tank.

Discard old solutions.

All models are equipped with

180

degree thermostats and only permanent type anti-freeze should be used.

Alcohol base anti-freeze products should not be used because of their low boiling points. The use of

160

degree thermostats is

not

recommended, especially for vehicles equipped with air-conditioning.

Refill cooling system with water and a suitable high quality, permanent type anti-freeze, in sufficient quantity to protect system against freezing during cold weather seasons. A suitable high quality permanent type anti-freeze is available under Part Number

1316209.

When vehicle is operated in areas where protection from freezing is not required, and vehicle is not equipped with Air Conditioning, refill cooling system with clean water and add a high quality corrosion inhibitor, such as Chrysler Rust Resistor, Part Num- ber

2421778.

This need not be done until the first yearly service.

ALTERNATOR

The alternator is provided with prelubricated bearings, which require no periodic lubrication.

The outside of the alternator should be wiped clean and ventilating holes inspected for an accumulation of dirt which would obstruct the flow of air. Refer to

“Electrical,” Group

for complete servicing of the alternator.

BATTERY

Check fluid level every two months and more often in hot weather and on long trips. Fill cells, if necessary, using only water of a known low mineral content, until water is

3/8

inch above plates.

Do not overf ill.

Check specific gravity, using a reliable hydrometer, every

months or

12,000

miles, whichever occurs first, or more often if there is excessive use of water.

Clean battery posts and cable terminals and tighten terminals. Coat connections with light mineral grease or petrolatum.

Refer to “Electrical,” Group

for complete servicing.

DlSTRl BUT0 R

Apply

drops of light engine oil into distributor oil cup (Fig.

every six months.

Whenever breaker contacts are serviced, lubricate cam surfaces. Wipe old lubricant from cam and rubbing block (Fig.

and apply a thin film of cam lubri-

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0-8 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE-

Fig. 9-Distributor Lubrication Points

cant. Such a lubricant is available under Part Number or three drops of light engine oil to felt wick under rotor

(Fig. 9).

CAUTION: Avoid over-oiling and applying an excessive amount of cam lubricant to prevent lubricants from getting on breaker contacts.

HEADLIGHTS

One of the most important factors in automobile safety, is the correct aiming of the headlights.

Changes in suspension, such as front suspension height and/or deflection of rear springs due to heavy loading, will change the headlight beam pattern and may cause unsafe nighttime driving conditions. There- fore, it is recommended that headlight aiming be checked every six months.

If a car is to be loaded abnormally, such as for a vacation trip, or with a salesman’s products, the headlight aiming should be checked and adjusted to serve the new conditions. Refer to “Lighting System,” Group

for adjusting procedures.

WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADES

Long exposure to heat and road splash tend to harden the rubber wiped blades, thus destroying their efficiency. When blades smear or in general do not satisfactorily clean the windshield, they should be replaced.

To replace, depress release on the top of blade bridge and slide out rubber blade. Slide new rubber blade refill into bridge to lock it in place. Refer to

Parts List for the correct rubber blade refill.

ENGINE OIL-SELECTION OF

For best performance, and to provide for maximum protection of all engines for all types of operation, only those lubricants should be selected which:

(a) Conform to the requirements of the API classification “FOR SERVICE MS.”

(b) Have the proper SAE grade number for the ex- pected temperature range.

NK575

Fig. IO-Shaded Area Covers Region where

Minimum

Temperatures

IOo

a r e Considently Reached

During Winter Months

Oil Viscosity Recommendations

Mu I

tigrades

SAE

20W-40

Where temperatures are consis-

SAE

1OW-30

SAE

1OW-30

SAE

5W-20 tently above 32°F.

Suitable

for

year long operation in many parts of the U.S.; may be used where temperatures occas- sionally drop a s low as -10°F.

Recommended where minimum temperatures are consistently be-

low

+lO”F.

Single Grades

SAE

1OW

Where temperatures are consistently above 32°F.

Where temperatures range between

+32”F. and -10°F.

Low viscosity oils make engine starting easier in cold weather. Modern SAE

5W-20

subjected to extensive engineering evaluation and may be safely used as recommended.

stated in the accompanying chart (Fig.

lo),

when

minimum

temperatures may be consistently below

10’F.

during some winter months, SAE

5W-20

viscosity may be used.

If your region is in the shaded area, SAE

5W-20

oil should be used during the winter months.

Lubricants which do not have both an SAE grade number and an MS Service classification on the container

should not

be used.

MATERIALS ADDED TO ENGINE OILS

It is not necessary to add any other products to engine oils for most types of driving when MS quality oils are used.

In some instances, such as infrequent operation or short trips only, and during break-in after a major overhaul, addition of special materials containing anti-rust and anti-scuff additives is beneficial. A suitable product for this purpose is available under Part

Number

FREQUENCY OF OIL CHANGES

The engine oil should be changed every three

(3)

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INTAKE MANIFOLD

0-9

FLOW CONTROL

VALVE

THIS WASHER

IS COLOR CODED TO IDENTIFY VENT

VALVE ASSEMBLY

V-8 ENGINES

64x307

Fig. 12-Standard Crankcase Ventilation System

Fig. I I-Removing Engine Oil Filter (383, 426

Cu.

In.

Engine)

months, or 4,000 miles, whichever comes first.

During Break-ln

Cars should be driven moderately during the first

300

miles. After the initial

miles, speeds up to

to 60 mph are desirable. While cruising, brief full- throttle accelerations contribute to a good break-in.

Wide-open throttle accelerations in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided for at least

500

miles.

The oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high quality lubricant, classified “For Service

MS,”

and

should be retained

until the first regularly scheduled three-month or

4,000 mile oil change, whichever occurs first.

If it becomes necessary to add oil during this initial period, an oil with the “For

Service MS” classification and of the proper viscosity grade should be used.

Nondetergent or straight mineral oils must never be used.

Frequently, a new engine will consume some oil during its first few thousand miles of operation. This should be considered as a normal part of the break-in and not to be interpreted as an indication of difficulty.

Severe Operating Conditions

Severe operating conditions, such as frequent driving on dusty roads, or in sandy geographic areas, or unusually short trip driving in cold weather may rea- sonably require oil changes more frequently than every three months. Under these conditions, consult and follow the advice of any Chrysler Motors Corpora- tion Authorized Dealer’s Service Manager.

Taxi and Police Operation

Severe service such as taxi and city police driving, which are principally short trip operations including frequent and prolonged idling, require more frequent oil changes on a regular schedule. For this service, it is recommended that engine oil be changed every two months, not to exceed 2,000 miles. Replace filter every second oil change.

ENGINE OIL FILTER

All engines are equipped with full-flow, throw-away oil filters (Fig.

11) to provide efficient filtering of engine oil for maximum engine protection.

The filter should be replaced every second oil change. Since filters vary widely in quality, it is recommended that a Chrysler Corporation Engine Oil

Filter, or equivalent, be used for replacement to assure most efficient service.

CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM

Two types of crankcase ventilation systems will be found on Dodge models. A brief description follows to provide easy identification so that proper service pra- cedures may be applied.

The

Standard Ventilation System

(Fig. 12) consists of a ventilator valve and cap mounted on the right hand rocker cover, a carburetor with drilled passages in the throttle body, a hose leading from the valve cap

CONNECTING HOSE

INTAKE MANIFOLD

-THIS WASHER IS COL

CONTROL CODED TO IDENTIFY

VALVE VENT VALVE ASSEMBLY

BREATHER CAP HOSE

V-8 ENGINES

64X307D

Fig. 13-Closed Crankcase Ventilation System

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0-10 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE-

CONTROL VALVE

ALTERED DLSTRIBUTOR

Fig. 14-Closed Type Breather Cap

to the throttle body pasages and the oil filler pipe breather cap.

The

Closed Ventilation System

(Fig. 13) is basically the same as the Standard System except that it contains a

closed

oil filler pipe breather cap (Fig.

14)

a hose connecting the cap to the carburetor air cleaner housing. In. addition, the air cleaner filter element is provided with a plastic mesh outer wrapper (Fig. 15).

(The wrapper is not used on high performance engines equipped with non-silenced air cleaners.)

Cleaner Air Package

The crankcase ventilation system utilizing the

Cleaner Air Package (Fig.

16)

is basically the Closed

Crankcase Ventilation System (Fig. 13) combined with a system of exhaust emission control through timing and carburetion. This is provided through the use of a modified carburetor, an altered distributor and a special vacuum control valve.

Servicing Procedures

Periodic servicing of the crankcase ventilation system is required to maintain good engine performance and prevent malfunction of the system because of

Fig. 15-Carburetor

Air

Cleaner Element and Wrapper

Fig. 16-Cleaner

Air

Package (Typical)

combustion products deposited in the valve, hose and carburetor passages.

Standard System

Every six months clean and service the system as outlined. Replace valve every year.

In cases of severe service, such as experienced in police, taxicab or other operation involving short trips with prolonged idling, it is recommended that the system be checked for operation with

every oil change

and serviced as required.

With engine idling, remove ventilator valve and cap assembly from right hand rocker cover (Fig. 12). If valve is working freely, a hissing noise will be heard as air passes through the valve, and a strong vacuum should be felt when a finger is placed over the valve inlet.

If valve is working properly, reinstall ventilator valve and cap assembly and remove oil filler pipe breather cap. With engine idling, loosely hold a piece of stiff paper or a parts tag over oil filler pipe. After allowing about a minute for crankcase pressure to reduce, the paper should be drawn against filler pipe with a noticeable force. If this occurs, a final check should be made to be certain valve shuttle is free.

Shut off engine, remove valve and shake it vigorously. A clicking noise should be heard if valve shuttle is free. If noise is heard, valve is satisfactory and no further service is necessary.

If valve does not click when shaken, or the paper is not drawn against filler pipe with a noticeable force, replace valve and recheck system.

Do not attempt to clean valve. Replace it with a new one. Use valves that have either the letter "H" stamped on the end, a flat end or a black end washer.

Remove ventilator valve hose (Fig. 12) from cap and carburetor. Inspect it for deposits and clean, if necessary.

Remove breather cap (Fig. 12) and wash it thoroughly in kerosene or other suitable solvent to remove all old oil and dirt. Reoil filter element with

SAW

Service air cleaner filter element every six months, as outlined on page 12, and replace filter element every two years. Use a Chrysler Corporation filter

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~~~~ ~

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

0-11

element or equivalent for replacement.

Remove carburetor. Hand turn a

34

inch drill through the passages to dislodge solid particles.

CAUTION: Under no circumstances should metal be removed. Use a smaller drill, if necessary. Blow passages clean. It is not necessary to disassemble the carburetor for this service.

Closed Ventilation System

Service system with the wrapper air cleaner every six months, as outlined for the standard system. Re- place valve every year. Service air cleaner filter element every six months, as outlined on page 11, and replace filter element and wrapper every two years.

On vehicles equipped with non-silenced air cleaner filter element, service system at every oil change as outlined for vehicles with wrapper filter element, page 11. Service filter element at every oil change, as outlined on page

11.

Replace filter element and ventilator valve every year. If vehicle is used extensively for short trips with frequent idling, these services will be required more frequently.

Cleaner Air Package

Service the crankcase ventilation system on vehicles equipped with this package as outlined on page 11.

The Carburetor, distributor and vacuum control valve are serviced as outlined in Fuel System, Group

14 and Ignition System, Group

Taxi and Police Operation

For this type of service, the crankcase ventilation system should be serviced at each oil change. A suggested practice for taxi and police operations is to maintain spare valves, installing a clean valve at each oil change. Valves so removed can be cleaned by soaking overnight in carburetor cleaner, followed by drying with compressed air.

Carburetor Air Cleaner-With Wrapper

Remove air cleaner from carburetor and remove filter element from cleaner. Remove gauze wrapper from element (Fig.

15).

The wrapper helps prevent oil wetting of the element by collecting condensed oil vapors on its surface. Wash wrapper in kerosene or other suitable solvent to remove dirt and oil. Examine filter element. If it is dry or has only one or two oil-wetted spots, clean by gently blowing out dirt from element with compressed air (Fig.

20).

Hold air nozzle about two inches from inner screen.

If element is saturated with oil for more than one- half of its circumference, replace it with a new element. Noticeable quantities of oil on filter indicate a malfunctioning of the ventilation system due to a sticking valve or excessive deposit build-up in ventilation system. Normally, filter element and wrapper should be replaced every two years. Use a Chrysler

Corporation filter element or equivalent for replacement.

Carburetor Air Cleaner-Without Wrapper

At each oil change period, examine and clean filter element as outlined above. If element is saturated with oil, replace it with a new one. In any event, replace the filter element once a year. If vehicle is used extensively for short trips with frequent idling, these services will be required more frequently.

EN G

N E PER FO R MAN C E EVAL U AT1 0 N

Engine operating efficiency depends on correct ignition, carburetor adjustments, and on valve lash where applicable. To obtain best engine performance,

Chrysler Corporation recommends that the engine be evaluate every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first, and tuned, if necessary. Services performed during this evaluation should include the following:

1-Spark Plugs-Remove and inspect each spark plug. Most plugs can be cleaned, adjusted, and reinstalled. Rough idle, hard starting, frequent engine miss at high speeds, or apparent physical deterioration, are indications that the spark plugs should be replaced.

2-Distributoralean and inspect distributor cap and rotor if required. Check breaker contacts for .abnormal pitting, bluing, or misalignment, and adjust.

Lubricate cam and wick, (see page

7).

Be sure that all distributor secondary wires and tower caps are clean and connected properly. See “Electrical Group” for ignition timing procedures and settings.

3-Carburetor-Remove and clean air filter. Check operation of manifold heat control valve and choke diaphragms; use solvent recommended. Clean crankcase ventilation system, (see page 10). See Fuel System

Group for carburetor adjustment procedures.

4-Battery-Check specific gravity. Clean and tighten terminals; apply grease to post and terminals.

Check circuit voltages as directed in the Electrical

Group.

Fig. 17-Manifold Heat

Control

Valve

(3 18 Cu. In. Engine)

NK584

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0-12 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

VALVE SHAFT

NN301

Fig. 18-Manifold Heat Control V a l v e (383,

426 Cu. In. Engines)

5-Starting Motor-Test

cranking ability as described in “Electrical Group.’’

&Valve Lash (where applicablel-Should

an engine continue to be noisy and the idle rough after a tune-up, adjust valve lash to specifications.

Refer to the Engine Group for lash values and instructions.

MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROLVALVE

Freedom of movement of the heat control valve by removing lead deposits from the valve shaft bearings is assured by application of a suitable solvent. Such a solvent is available under Part Number

1879318,

Manifold Heat Control Solvent.

Every six months apply solvent to each end of valve shaft a t bushings (Fig.

18).

Apply solvent when manifold is

COOL.

Allow solvent to soak a few min-

Fig. 20-Cleaning Filter Element

Utes, then work valve shaft back and forth until it works freely.

CARBURETOR AIR CLEANER

(Paper Element Type)

The paper filter element (Fig.

19)

in the carburetor air cleaner should be cleaned every six months and replaced every two years. Use a Chrysler Corporation filter element or equivalent for replacement.

To clean, remove air cleaner from carburetor.

Re- move cover and filter element and clean cover and housing. Using compressed air, gently clean element by holding air hose nozzle at least two inches from inside screen (Fig.

20).

CAUTION:

Do not use compressed a i r on outside surface of element as this will embed foreign matter in the element paper.

Examine element for punctures. Discard an element that has small pin-point punctures. Examine soft

COVER

NUT

Fig. 19-Carburet

Air Cleaner

63x373

RESERVOIR

NK579

Fig.

1 -Carburetor Air Cleaner (Oil Bath Type)

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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-13

OUTPUT SHAFT

FRONT

YOKE

INERTIA YOKE

Fig. 22-Apply Solvent t o Choke Valve Shaft Ends

plastic sealing rings on both sides of element for smoothness and uniformity. Replace if not satisfactory.

At this time, also service Carburetor Choke Shaft as outlined on page

13.

Oil

Bath Type (Extra Equipment)

The sediment level in the air cleaner (Fig.

21)

should be examined every second oil change, or more frequently under severe operating conditions, such as in dusty areas.

Service the cleaner if sediment is within Ya inch of shelf or at least once a year.

To clean, remove cover and filter element. Wash element thoroughly in kerosene and drain. Clean the reservoir thoroughly and fill to indicated level with one pint SAE

1OW-30

engine oil. This grade is suitable for all temperatures.

Reassemble cleaner and install on carburetor.

CARBURETOR CHOKE SHAFT

Gum deposits on choke shaft bearings may be re-

SEAL BUSHING NK565

Fig. 24-Front Universal Joint-Cross and Roller Type w i t h Automatic Transmission

moved by applying a

gum

solvent. Such a solvent is available under Part Number

1643273,

Carburetor

Cleaner. This will assure freedom of movement of choke shaft.

Every six months, with air cleaner removed, apply cleaner to ends of choke shaft where it rotates in air horn (Fig.

22).

At the same time, move choke shaft back and forth until deposits are flushed out.

Run engine at idle to clean out any excess cleaner from carburetor and intake manifold.

FUEL FILTER

The fuel filter (Fig.

23)

is of the disposable type.

Under average operating conditions, filter should be replaced every

years or

24,000

miles, whichever occurs first. Should an excessive amount of foreign matter accumulate in fuel tank, filter may require replacing more frequently.

After installing new filler, run engine for several minutes and check for leaks at connections.

PROPELLER

SHAFT

AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS

Under normal operating conditions relubrication of the universal joints is not required. Every six months, however, the bearing seals on front universal joint

Fig. 23-Fuel Filter ( 3 8 3 , 4 2 6 Cu. In. Engines) Fig. 25-Universal Joint-Rear-Cross and Roller Type

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0-14 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

-RETAINER

-_-

SEAL

AND ROLLERS

SEAL

BUSHING

AND ROLLERS

NK995

Fig.

26-Front Universal Joint-Cross and Roller Type

(Fig. 24) and the rear universal joint (Fig.

25)

should be inspected for external leakage or damage.

The joints should not be disassembled or relubricated unless external leakage or damage is observed.

Cross and Roller Universal Joint

When necessary to replace seals, completely disassemble joint, as outlined under Propeller Shaft and

Universal Joints, Group 16. Clean and inspect all parts for serviceability. Replace damaged parts as required. Repack bearings (Fig. 26) using Universal

Joint Grease, NLGI grade 0.

If additional lubricant is required to restore level, add sufficient quantity of Multi-Purpose Gear Oil

SAE

90, as defined by MIGG2105B. This is suitable for all temperatures. Special Sure-Grip Lubricant, Part Num- ber

2585318,

is a fluid of this type and is recommended.

CAUTION:

When filling, do not use a pressure gun as high pressure may damage the seals.

Power Steering

Check fluid level in power steering reservoir every

six

months. When fluid is

cold,

level should

be

at base

Slip Spline

Yoke

Relubrication of the slip spline yoke (Fig. 26) is required only when the propeller shaft is removed and disassembled for servicing.

After thoroughly cleaning the old lubricant from the splines, coat them with not to exceed

1/3

ounce of an Automotive Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI grade 2, containing extreme pressure additives and molyb- denum disulfide, spread evenly over the entire area of the yoke. Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number

2525035,

is suitable for this application.

Carefully examine rubber seal before installing it in housing extension. If not serviceable, replace with a new one.

STEERING GEAR

Manual

The lubricant installed in the steering gear at the time of assembly is a high quality product and regularly scheduled changes are not required.

The fluid level, however, should be checked every six months, by removing filler plug (Fig. 27) to determine that lubricant completely covers worm gear.

NU93

Fig. 27-Manual Steering Gear Lubrication

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Fig. 28-Power Steering Pump Reservoir

of filler neck (Fig. 28). When fluid is

hot,

level should be halfway up filler neck.

CAUTION: Before removing filler neck cap, wipe it carefully to prevent accumulated dirt from dropping into reservoir.

To restore level, if necessary, add sufficient hydraulic fluid specially formulated for minimum effect on rubber hoses. Such a fluid is available under Part

Number 2084329, Power Steering Fluid.

TRANSMISSION

Manual Three-Speed

The lubricant installed in the transmission at the time of assembly is a high quality product and regularly scheduled changes are not required for vehicles whose operation is classified as normal service for passenger cars.

The fluid level, however, should be checked every six months and determined that it is at the bottom of filler plug hole (Fig. 29). When necessary to replenish, refill as required, using only Automatic Transmission

Fluid, AQ-AFT, Suffix “A” for all temperature ranges. Included in this group is Automatic Transmis-

-LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

0-15

sion Fluid AQ-ATF-2351A, available under Part Num- ber 1843314. In warm weather, Multi-Purpose Lubri- cant SAE 90, as defined by MIL-L-2105B may be used.

When vehicle is used for other than normal service or, for towing trailers, refer to “Trailer Towing Serv- ice” as outlined below.

Manual Four-Speed

The transmission is filled at the factory with a special gear lubricant and regularly scheduled changes are not required for vehicles whose operation is classified as normal service for passenger cars.

The fluid level, however, should be checked every six months and determined that it is at bottom of the filler plug hole (Fig. 29).

If necessary to replenish fluid to restore the level, add Multi-Purpose Gear Oil SAE 140, as defined by

MILL-2 105B.

During cold weather, if shift effort becomes extremely high, transmission should be drained (Fig. 29) and refilled with Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant SAE

80 or SAE 90, as defined by MIL-L-2105B or with

Automatic Transmission Fluid, AQ-ATF, Suffix “A.”

Automatic Transmission Fluid should be replaced with Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant SAE 140 in warm weather.

When vehicle is used for other than normal service or, for towing trailers, refer to “Trailer Towing Serv- ice” as outlined as follows:

Trailer Towing Service

For vehicles equipped for trailer towing service, or if the regular operation of the vehicle is classified as severe, the transmission lubricant should be changed periodically. Drain and refill with specified lubricant initially after 36,000 miles or 3 years, whichever

OC- curs first and every 12,000 miles or 12 months, whichever occurs first, thereafter.

Fig. 30-Column-Mounted Manual Transmission

Gearshift Control Lubrication Points

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0-16

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

Fig. 3

-Floor-Mounted Manual Transmission

Gearshift Mechanism Lubrication Points

Column-Mounted Manual Transmission

Gearshift Controls.

If operation of gearshift controls becomes noisy, or shift effort becomes objectionable, lubricate linkage at lower end of steering column (Fig.

30).

Apply a film of Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part

Number

2525035,

or Automotive Multi-Purpose

Grease, NLGI grade 2, to contact surfaces.

Floor-Mounted Manual Transmission

Gearshift Mechanism

If operation of the mechanism becomes difficult, remove rubber boot on floor panel and apply a few drops of light engine oil to the mechanism.

In addition, from under the vehicle, apply light engine oil to rod ends in operating levers (Fig.

31).

TRANSMlSSlO N

Automatic

The fluid level should be checked every six months.

This check should be made when engine temperature gauge indicates a normal warmed-up condition and transmission fluid is heated to its normal operating temperature. While level may be determined when fluid is “cold,” the preferred method is with fluid

“hot.”

Check level with parking brake applied firmly and engine idling.

CAUTION: Before removing level indicator, wipe off cap and top of filler tube to prevent accumulated dirt from dropping into transmission filler tube.

After engine has idled for about two minutes, move gearshift lever slowly through all gear positions, paus- ing momentarily in each and ending with lever in “N” position.

When fluid is “hot,” level should be at “FULL” mark, or slightly below, but

never above

“FULL”

Fig. 32-Transmission Dip Stick Markings

mark (Fig.

32)

to avoid foaming of the fluid. Fluid should be added or extracted, depending upon the reading, to restore level as prescribed.

If it is necessary to check level when transmission is “cold,” fluid level should be at, or slightly below the “ADD ONE PINT” mark. If level is below this mark, add one pint of fluid and recheck level.

Restore level, when necessary, using only Auto- matic Transmission Fluid AQ-ATF, Suffix “A.” In- cluded in this group is Automatic Transmission Fluid

AQ-ATF-2351A, available under Part Number

1843314.

No other fluids are recommended except fluids from this group. Exception to this is a sealer which introduces a small amount of swelling to reduce fluid leakage resulting from hardening or shrinkage of the seals in high mileage vehicles. Such a product is available under Part Number

2298923,

Transmission Sealer.

For vehicles operated under normal service conditions, the transmission fluid and filter will provide satisfactory lubrication and protection to the transmission. Therefore, periodic fluid changes are not required, except for hard usage and trailer towing service as explained as follows.

Trailer Towing Service and Hard Usage

For vehicles equipped for trailer towing service, or if the regular operation of the vehicle is classified as severe, the transmission fluid and filter should be changed periodically. Drain and refill the transmission with the specified fluid and replace the filter initially after

36,000

miles or

years, whichever occurs first and every

12,000

miles or every

months, whichever occurs first, thereafter.

FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS

The brake linings and front wheel bearings on cars equipped with either drum or disc brakes should be inspected every

months or

18,000

miles, whichever occurs first. The bearings should be cleaned and re-

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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-17

LEFT FROM1 RIGHT FRONT

1 HUB GREASE CAVITY

Fig. 33-Front Wheel Bearing Lubrication

packed whenever brake linings are replaced or the brake drums resurfaced.

When an inspection of wheel bearings indicates lubricant is low in quantity, or contaminated with dirt or water to produce a milky appearance, bearings should be cleaned, inspected and relubricated if serviceable.

CAUTION: To avoid possible contamination of Iubri- cant by mixing lubricants that are not compatible, do not add lubricant to bearings.

Thoroughly clean old lubricant from bearings and hubs. Repack bearings and hubs with Automotive

Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI grade

When repacking hubs, make sure all surfaces of hub and outer grease cup interiors are covered with grease (Fig.

33)

,minimize condensation and grease travel out of bearing.

DO NOT OVERFILL.

Adjust bearings as follows:

(1)

Install wheel and drum asemblies and tighten wheel nuts to

foot-pounds.

(2)

Tighten wheel bearing adjusting nut (Fig.

34)

90 inch-pounds while rotating wheel.

(3)

Position nut lock on adjusting nut so one pair

Fig. 34-Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment

Fig. 35-Tire Rotation Diagram

cotter pin slots align with hole in spindle.

(4)

Back off adjusting nut and nut lock to the next slot and install cotter pin.

(5)

Install wheel covers.

TIRES

Tires, including spare, should be rotated every second oil change according to tire rotation diagram (Fig.

35)

to provide uniform wear, long tire life, and to retain comfortable riding qualities.

Tires should be examined for unusual wear patterns, foreign material and proper inflation pressures.

Unusual wear conditions may reflect a need for a change in driving habits or indicate that mechanical corrections may be necessary.

Refer to Lubrication and Maintenance Chart (Fig.

for recommended inflation pressures.

SPE ED0 M ETER CABLE

To service a noisy speedometer cable, disconnect housing at speedometer head. Remove shaft and clean it thoroughly. Apply a very thin film of speedometer cable lubricant on the shaft. Such a lubricant is available under Part Number

1243632,

Speedometer Cable

Lubricant. Wipe excess lubricant from the top one- foot of shaft and from ferrule.

CAUTION: Excessive lubricant may couse malfunction of the speedometer.

HOOD LOCK RELEASE MECHANISM AND

SAFETY CATCH

Lubrication of hood lock mechanism and safety catch is of vital importance to assure ease of operation and freedom from binding.

Apply Automotive Multi-Purpose Lubricant, NLGI grade

to points (Fig.

36)

springs and rubbing sur-

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0-18

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

SLIDING CONTACTS SURAFCES

FRONT DOOR UPPER

REAR DOOR UPPER

Fig. 36-Hood lock Assembly

faces. Apply sparingly to all link ends and sliding contact areas (Fig.

36).

Work lubricant into lock mechanism until all frictional surfaces are covered.

BODY MAINTENANCE

Body and other operating mechanisms, including throttle linkages, should be inspected, cleaned and lubricated every six months. This is necessary to maintain ease of operation and to provide protection against rust and wear.

Prior to applying any lubricants, wipe the parts clean to remove dust and grit. Excess oil or lubricant should be removed.

Relubricate mechanisms as outlined in the following paragraphs.

Where Lubriplate is specified, use a smooth, white body hardware lubricant conforming to NLGI, grade

1. A suitable lubricant is available under Part Number 1064768. Where Door Ease is specified, use a stainless wax type lubricant. Such a lubricant is available under Part Number 1064769.

Lock Cylinders

when necessary, apply a thin film of Lubriplate directly to key. Insert key into lock and actuate several times. Wipe excess lubricant from key. Particular attention should be given to external lock cylinders

WPh

SPRING

ENDS

CONTACT

AREA

FRONT

DOOR LOWER REAR

DOOR LOWER NK631

Fig. 38-Door Hinge Lubrication Points

during fall and winter months to insure protection from water and ice.

Hood Hinge Lubrication Points

(All

Models)

Apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to all pivot points and torsion bar contact areas (Fig.

37).

Do not apply to torsion bar roller to cam surfaces.

Door Locks and Locking Control Linkage

To inspect these parts and relubricate, if necessary, remove door or quarter trim panel. Apply a film of

Lubriplate to all pivot and sliding contact areas.

Door Hinges

(All

Models)

On all hinges, apply engine oil to hinge pin ends

(Fig.

38).

On lower hinges, in addition, apply engine oil to spring ends and contact areas.

Door Latch Striker Rotor

Apply light engine oil, sparingly, to outside and inside rotor bearing surfaces (Fig.

39).

Wipe off excess oil.

CONTACT

AREA

TORSION

BAR

BRACKET

Fig.

37-Hood Hinge Lubrication Points

NK660

Fig.

39-Door Striker Rotor and Striker Plate

Lubrication Points-All Models

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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-19

/SUPPORT ARM GUIDE LOCK

TORSION

BAR

SLIDING CONTAC

Fig. 4 0 4 e c k l i d Lubrication Points

Door Latch Striker Plate

Apply Door Ease Lubricant to rotor contact surfaces (Fig. 39). striker teeth lock

Window Regulator, Glass Lower Frame

To inspect these parts and relubricate, if necessary, remove door or quarter trim panel. Apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to regulator sector gear teeth, assist spring and pivots. Apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to glass lower frame roller slide tracks and roller and bracket assembly pivot points.

Deck Lid Latch

Apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to inner pivot and sliding contact surfaces (Fig.

40).

Deck Lid Hinge (All Models)

Apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to all pivot points and torsion bar contact surfaces (Fig.

41).

BEARING

AREA

TORSION

BAR

SUPPORT

BEARING

AREA

Fig. 4 1 4 e c k l i d Hinge Lubrication Points

HINGE

PIVOT

PIN

AREA

LOCK STRIKER

SLIDING

CONTACT

SURFACE

Fig. 42-Tail Gate Torsion Bar and Check

Arm Guide Plate Lubrication Points

NK638A

License Plate Bracket Hinge, Spring and Pin

Lubrication Points

Apply Automotive Multi-Purpose Lubricant, NLGI grade 2, sparingly to all pivot areas.

Tail Gate Torsion Bar and Check Arm Guide

Plate Lubrication Points

Apply engine oil sparingly to hinge pivot areas (Fig.

42).

Apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to all inner pivot or sliding contact surfaces through access hole. Apply

Door Ease to all contact surfaces of striker plates, dovetail surfaces, torsion bar and support arm guide pillars. Apply film of Automotive Multi-Purpose Lu- bricant, NLGI grade

sparingly to contact surfaces between torsion bar and tail gate hinge or tail gate end face plate, right side only.

To inspect inside remote control handle linkage and window regulator, and lubricate if necessary, remove tail gate trim panel. Apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to all pivot and sliding contact surfaces, including window regulator sector gear teeth and assist spring.

Throttle Linkage

On models with manual transmissions, apply a thin film of Automotive Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI grade

to both ends of accelerator shaft where it turns in the bracket and on the underside of accelerator pedal where the nylon roller rolls on it (Fig.

43).

On models with automatic transmission, apply a thin film of Automotive Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI grade

2 where both ends of the accelerator shaft where it turns in bracket and on underside of accelerator pedal where roller rolls on it. Also, apply a thin film of same lubricant to pivot points of both upper and lower linkage bellcranks.

PARTS REQUIRING NO LUBRICATION

There are many points that should not be lubricated, some because they are permanently lubricated,

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0-20

LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE

ACCELERATOI

Fig. 43--Throttle Linkage Lubrication Points

some because lubricants will be detrimental to their operating characteristics, and some because lubricants will cause component failures. In any event, rubber bushings should not be lubricated, not only because lubricants will cause rubber to fail, but also will destroy their necessary friction characteristics.

The following parts should not be lubricated:

Accelerator Pedal Pivot

Clutch Release Bearing

All Rubber Bushings

Alternator Bearings

Automatic Transmission

Controls and Linkage

Carburetor Air Cleaner

(Paper Element Type)

Clutch Pedal Push

Rod Ends

Drive Belts

Fan Belt Idler Pulley

Rear Springs

Rear Wheel Bearings

Starting Motor Bushings

Upper and Lower Control

Arm Bushings

Water Pump Bearings

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AUTO PILOT

HEATERS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

ELECTRIC CLOCK

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Page

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Page

1 RADIOS AND ANTENNAS

5 WINDSHIELD WASHERS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

11 AUTO PILOT

INDEX

General Information

Installation

Removal

..........................

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Page

5 Test and Adjustments

.....................................

Service Diagnosis

............................

.........................

Page

GENERAL INFORMATION

The auto pilot is a driver operated voluntary speed control. It can be used either as a warning signal to indicate that a pre-set speed has been reached, or as a fully automatic vehicle speed regulator.

The auto pilot instrument panel control is used to set the auto pilot to a desired speed for existing driving conditions. When the pre-set speed is reached, the auto-pilot provides a reaction pressure to the accelerator pedal pressure. Since the reaction pressure is low, five to seven pounds, the driver can over-ride the setting by pressing the accelerator through the reaction pressure. down grade operation. Auto pilot automatic control ceases instantly with the slightest brake pedal movement and the accelerator will revert to manual control. Disengagement of the automatic control may also be accomplished by pushing “IN” the button in the center of the instrument panel control or turning the ignition switch to “OFF.”

Operation

The auto pilot is self engaging when the pre-set vehicle speed is reached. Set the instrument panel control to the desired speed and pull the button in the center of the control “OUT.” When the desired vehicle speed is reached the reaction pressure is felt in the accelerator pedal. At the point of reaction pressure the driver’s accelerator pedal pressure is relaxed and the accelerator is in the auto pilot automatic regulation. The auto-pilot will automatically advance the accelerator on uphill operation and retard on

Lubrication

All internal working parts of the auto pilot are equipped with self-lubricated bearings which have been factory lubricated for the service life of the unit.

The following mechanical and electrical tests will aid in isolating and correcting malfunction conditions for the auto pilot. Service Diagnosis procedures must be followed to make certain the malfunction is in the auto pilot unit and not in some other component of the system.

If the malfunction cannot be definitely isolated, it is recommended that the tests and adjustments be performed in the following sequence:

Accelerator Linkage Adjustment

Control Cable Adjustment

Electrical

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

Condition

Possible

Cause Correction

It is recommended that the diagnosis be performed in the sequence outlined. If diagnosis shows the trouble to be internal

Do in the

Auto Pilot drive mechanism it not attempt any internal service on is recommended that the unit be replaced. the drive mechanism.

AUTO PILOT CONTROL

BUTTON DOES NOT

REMAIN OUT WITH

IGNITION ON

“SPEED WARNING”

PEDAL PRESSURE

(a) Blown fuse. (a) Replace the fuse.

(b)

Poor electrical connections to the

(b)

Check the connections and the in-

Faulty control. strument panel control for grounding.

(a) Blown fuse or faulty wiring in mo- (a) Test wiring circuits. tor circuit (red wire). Tests.”

(b) Accelerator linkage broken or discon- (b) Connect or replace nected. adjust.

See “Electrical the linkage and

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1-2 AUTO PILOT

Condition

“SPEED WARN

G”

PEDAL PRESSURE AT

ALL SPEEDS

(including below

miles per hour)

AUTOMATIC LATCHING

DOES NOT ENGAGE

WHEN BUTTON IS

PULLED OUT. “SPEED

WARN

NG”

O.K.

Possible Cause

(a)

Faulty electrical circuit.

Correction

(a) See “Electrical Tests” (Red Wire).

(a)

Insufficient brake switch clearance. (a) Adjust auto pilot brake switch.

(b) Brake pedal not returning fully.

(b) Test brake pedal for full return. Ad- just or repair as necessary.

Black Wires).

AUTOMATIC LATCH

ENGAGES AT SELECTED

SPEED WITH CONTROL

BUTTON PUSHED IN

AUTOMATIC LATCH

REMAINS ENGAGED

WHEN BRAKE PEDAL

I S TOUCHED

UNIT DISENGAGES

INTERMITTENTLY ON

ROUGHROADS

AUTO PILOT WILL

NOT FUNCTION AT

LOW END OF DIAL

PULSATING

ACCELERATORPEDAL

(a) No. 3 black wire to the panel control (a) Test the circuit for ground and re- is grounded. pair if necessary. (Black Wire.)

(b) Faulty grounding switch in the in- (b) Test a t No. 3 terminal. Replace con- strument panel control. trol unit if necessary.

(a) Faulty or improperly adjusted brake (a) Test and adjust the brake switch. Re- switch. place if necessary.

(a) Poor electrical connections.

(b) Insufficient brake switch clearance.

(a) Improper control cable adjustment.

(a) See “Electrical Tests” (Black and

Blue Wires).

(b) Adjust brake switch to specifications.

(a) Adjust control cable.

CARBURETOR DOES

NOT RETURN TO

NORMAL IDLE

SPEEDOMETER DOES

NOT REGISTER OR

UNIT DOES NOT

P E RAT E

SPEED

M ETER N

0 IS

UNIT REPEATEDLY

BLOWING FUSES

(a)

Speedometer cable or drive cable (a) Align the cables. Replace if neces- kin ked.

(b) Lack of cable lubrication. sary.

(b) Lubricate the cables.

(a) Improper auto pilot linkage adjust- (a) Adjust the auto pilot linkage. ment.

(b) Standard throttle linkage faulty. (b) Repair or replace the linkage.

(a) Speedometer drive pinion in transmis- (a) Replace the speedometer drive pinion. sion is faulty.

(b) Faulty speedometer cable. (b) Replace the speedometer cable.

(d) Faulty speedometer. (d) Repair or replace the speedometer if necessary.

(a) Cables bent or linked.

(b) Lack of cable lubrication.

(a) Replace the cables.

(b) Lubricate the cables.

(a) Short circuit in wiring, drive mechan- (a) See “Electrical Tests.” ism or switches.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

ACCELERATOR LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT (Fig. 1)

(1)

Make certain automatic choke i s

“Off”

and carburetor i s at normal idle position. Operate linkage by moving auto-pilot exterior arm several times and allow linkage to ease into i t s normal position.

Do

not force linkage to close throttle.

(2) Loosen lock nut on auto pilot linkage r o d and insert locking arm gauge Tool

C-3844

stud on auto pilot.

(3)

Hold exterior arm against gauge pin and tighten lock nut on linkage. This w i l l provide proper clearance between stop stud and exterior arm w i t h carburetor in idle position.

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AUTO PILOT 1-3

Fig. I-Accelerator Linkage Adjustment

CONTROL CABLE ADJUSTMENT

(1)

Loosen but do not remove set screw on dust shield. (This screw retains control cable in bottom of dust shield.) (Fig.

2.)

(2)

Rotate instrument panel control dial counterclockwise until it contacts internal stop.

(3)

Push in lightly on control cable at dust shield.

This will position control rod, to which inner cable attaches, against its upper stop.

CAUTION: Do not force cable beyond this position.

(4)

Make certain that instrument panel control dial is still against its extreme counterclockwise stop.

(5)

Tighten screw on dust shield securely.

64 x

142

Fig. 2-Auto Pilot Dust Shield

A correctly adjusted control cable will not spring back on full rotation in either direction.

ELECTRICAL TESTS (Fig. 3)

(1)

Turn ignition switch to “On” or “Accessory” position. DO NOT START ENGINE.

(2) Pull out auto pilot control button in center instrument panel control.

Leave button out for all of electrical tests.

If control button will not stay out, test for a blown fuse, feed wire disconnected or poor grounding of the control.

(3)

Terminal No. 1 (Red

Wire)-using a test light, ground test light lead and touch other lead to termi-

INSTRUMENT

DRIVE UNIT

WIRING

CONNECTOR

BLACK

BLUE

RED

DASH PANEL

I I I

FUSE

I l l

AUTOPILOT

LIGHTING

CIRCUIT

CLOSED)

NK354A

Fig. 3-Auto Pilot Wiring Diagram

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1-4

AUTO PILOT

P -

I >

(3) Move dial to the

“4”

mark and record speedometer reading again being careful not to overshoot the

“4”

mark.

ENT

:TOR

GROUND?

TEST LAMP

LEAD^

Fig. 4-Testing Wiring Circuits

NB290A nal

No.

(Fig.

4).

The test lamp should light. If light fails to light, test for an “open” circuit in red wire between auto pilot and ignition circuit. of

(4)

Terminal

No. 2

(Blue W i r e k G r o u n d one lead test light and touch other lead to

No.

2 terminal

(Fig.

4).

If light fails to light, test for “open” connections in blue wire between auto-pilot and auto-pilot brake switch. If circuit is “open” a t brake switch, test brake switch adjustment.

It is important that this adjustment be carefully performed to insure proper auto-pilot operation.

Adjust brake switch (Fig.

5 )

until light goes out with approximately

?4 to

?42

inch of brake pedal movement.

For convenience in adjusting brake switch, test light can be connected to “Blue Wire” side of switch.

To replace auto-pilot brake switch, brake pedal and bracket assembly will have to be removed.

(5) Terminal

No.

(Black Wire)-insert one lead of test light in No.

1 terminal and other lead of test light in No. 3 terminal (Fig.

4).

The test light should light.

If light fails to light, test for an “open” circuit in black wire circuit between auto-pilot and instrument panel control. If lamp still fails to light, inspect instrument panel control for proper grounding. When control button is pushed in, light should go out if circuit is wired correctly.

INSTRUMENT PANEL CONTROL DIAL

CALI

RAT1 0 N

(1)

On a level stretch of road engage auto-pilot at full counterclockwise dial position. Carefully increase dial setting to “3” mark on dial, being careful not to overshoot the

“3” mark. If “3” mark is overshot repeat setting procedure from below the “3” mark.

(2)

mark.

Record speedometer reading with dial at “3”

Fig. 5-Auto Pilot Brake Switch

(4)

Repeat procedure a t higher speeds until normal driving range has been covered.

(5)

Repeat procedure as dial position is lowered through normal driving range being careful to avoid downward overshooting of desired mark on dial.

(6) Examine recorded speedometer readings at each dial setting for both “upward” and “downward” indications and adjust dial for best overall correlation between auto-pilot control dial and speedometer.

Turn control knob so set screw on control ring is at bottom. Loosen set screw with a hex wrench and rotate control knob desired amount while preventing ring from turning. Tighten set screw and recheck calibration.

DRIVE MECHANISM

Removal

(1)

Disconnect wiring connector a t the drive mechanism.

(2)

Disconnect drive cable and speedometer cable at drive unit.

A small piece of tape will prevent ferrule nut on drive cable from falling down the cable.

(3) Loosen set screw at lower end of dust shield. It is not necessary to remove screw.

(4)

Turn and pull dust shield from housing and slide dust shield down cable and slip ball end of bowden cable out of socket.

(5) Disconnect accelerator linkage from exterior arm on drive unit.

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(6)

Remove bolts and nuts securing drive mechanism to mounting brackets and remove drive mechanism leaving brackets in vehicle.

lnstallation

(1) Position drive mechanism on mounting brackets and install mounting bolts and nuts.

(2)

Connect drive cable and speedometer cable to drive mechanism.

RADIOS AND ANTENNAS 1-5

(3)

Connect accelerator linkage to exterior arm on drive mechanism. Adjust linkage.

(4)

Install ball end of bowden cable in socket on drive mechanism.

(5)

Install dust shield on housing. Push in and turn clockwise. Do not tighten set screw on end of dust shield until after control cable is properly adjusted.

(6)

Adjust control cable.

(7)

Connect wiring connector at drive mechanism.

ELECTRIC CLOCK

GENERAL INFORMATION

The clock, if so equipped is contained in the center of the right cluster on the instrument panel. The clock is a solenoid actuated, self regulating unit. The clock can be regulated by pulling out on the reset knob below the clock face and turning until the correct setting is obtained.

The clock will regulate itself

only

if the correction of setting is greater than five minutes. If the clock is gaining time, set the clock back to the correct time. If the clock is running slow, advance it to the correct time. Regulation will take place during the next re- wind cycle of the clock immediately following the regulation setting. One setting will regulate approximately

seconds in a

hour period.

Condition

CLOCK DOES NOT

OPERATE

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

Possible Cause

(a) Wire loose or off terminal.

(b)

Internal short.

Correction

(a) Install connector on terminal.

(b)

Repair or replace the clock a s sary. neces-

SERVICE PROCEDURES

REMOVAL

(1)

Disconnect battery ground cable.

(2)

Remove the three screws that mount right cluster to instrument panel and pull cluster forward and disconnect wiring to cluster.

(3)

Disconnect wiring to clock.

(4)

From rear of cluster remove nut that mounts clock to cluster and remove clock.

I

N STA LLATl 0 N

(1)

Position clock in cluster and install mounting nut.

(2)

Connect wiring to clock.

(3)

Connect wiring to cluster, position cluster into

Panel opening and install three mounting

SCI-WJS.

(4)

Connect battery ground cable.

R A D I O AND A N T E N N A

INDEX

Adjustments

Antennas

Radios

..................................

.....................................

General Information

...........................

.......................................

Page

GENERAL IN FORMATION

All models for

1966

are equipped, as optional equipment, with fully transistorized A.M. radio Model

235s

363s.

Also available, as optional equipment, is

fully transistorized radio Model

364.

The manufacturers of the radios and reverberators make repair service available through their authorized service depots. If a schematic wiring diagram is desired, it should be obtained from the manufacturer

the particular unit.

Reverberator

Service Diagnosis

Speakers

Page

..................................

............................

.....................................

AM-FM RADIO

(If so

equipped)

The AM-FM radio allows reception of both AM-FM broadcast frequencies. To select AM or FM reception, rotate the selector control located behind the manual tuning control to the desired position. The tuning knob and the On-Off and Volume control knob operate in the same manner as the standard AM radio.

The radio may be equipped, as optional equipment, with a rear seat speaker.

radio reverberator which

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1-6 RADIOS A N D ANTENNAS

+ operates in conjunction with the rear seat speaker is also available as an option.

RADIO REVERBERATOR

The radio reverberator is used to produce a time delay of

.025 .030

seconds in the radio output to the rear seat speaker. The “echo” produced gives the effect of “concert hall” reproduction in the vehicle.

The reverberator package consists of the reverberator unit, the instrument panel switch and the wiring from the switch to the reverberator unit. The reverberator is an independently powered unit and has i t s voltage supply separate from the voltage supply to the radio.

FADER CONTROL

This control i s used only when the vehicle i s equipped with a rear seat speaker. Full counterclockwise position allows operation of the front speaker.

Full clockwise position allows operation of the rear seat speaker. Rotation between either position provides the desired blend of the two speakers.

I f the vehicle is is equipped with a reverberator, the reverberator control on the instrument panel replaces the fader control. Pull the reverberator control

“OUT” to turn “ON” the reverberator unit and push

“IN” to turn “OFF.” In the “OFF” position, the reverberator control provides normal fader control.

Condition

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible Cause Correction

RADIO

RADIO RECEPTION

WEAK

IS INOPERATIVE

RADIO RECEPTION IS

NOISY (Vehicle i n

Motion)

RADIO RECEPTION IS

NOISY (Engine Running)

Blown fuse. (a) Replace the fuse.

Broken, loose or shorted antenna (b) Test with an auxiliary antenna and re- lead-in.

Loose battery cable. place lead-in if necessary.

Faulty radio. tighten all connections.

(d) Send radio to authorized radio ser-

Faulty speaker.

Faulty antenna. vice station for repair.

(e) Replace the speaker.

(f) Test the antenna and repair.

Unbalanced antenna trimmer.

Loose antenna lead-in.

Shorted antenna lead-in.

Faulty radio.

Faulty antenna.

(a) Adjust the antenna trimmer.

(b) Tighten the anntenna lead-in.

(d) Send radio to authorized radio service station for repair.

(e) Test the antenna and correct.

Outside electrical interferences.

Insufficient or faulty radio capacitors.

(a) Move the car or eliminate interference.

(b) Install capacitors in inition system.

Static build up in tires.

Loose antenna or lead-in wire.

Loose antenna ground.

(a) Ground the tires to the wheels with powdered graphite.

(b) Tighten the antenna attaching nut. In- spect the f i t of the antenna lead-in plug in the socket.

(a) Clean and tighten the antenna connections.

RADIO IS NOISY WHEN

EQUIPMENT IS

0 P E RAT ED

RADIO RECEPTION IS

DISTORTED

INTERMITTENT

RECEPTION

Speaker coil rubbing on voice cone. (a) Install an auxiliary speaker and corn- pare. Replace if improved.

Torn speaker cone.

(b) Replace the speaker.

Faulty radio.

Foreign material in speaker.

(d) Clean or replace speaker.

(a) Broken or shorted antenna lead-in (a) Test with a substitute antenna. Re- wire.

(b) Ground lead-in wire. pair or replace lead-in wire.

(b) Test with a substitute antenna. Re-

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RADIOS AND ANTENNAS 1-7

INTERFERENCE ELIMINATOR

SERVICE PROCEDURES

When installing any suppression item, make certain that all paint and dirt is removed from the grounding area between the capacitors and the engine or body conponents. Tighten all nuts and bolts securely.

The high tension circuit of the engine ignition system uses radio resistance wire

standard equipment.

The balance of the suppression equipment is installed as follows:

Install the ignition coil capacitor, as shown in

(Fig. 1).

The alternator is equipped with an internal capacitor which is integral with the output stud.

A capacitor is installed on the back of the instrument panel with a self tapping metal screw. The lead wire is connected to the input terminal of the fuel gauge. it out toward the rear of the vehicle.

(4)

Using the manual tuning control tune in the desired station.

(5) Relock the push button by pushing it all the way in toward the front of the vehicle.

ANTENNA

Removal

(1)

Disconnect antenna lead from radio receiver and from engine compartment, carefully pull out of passenger compartment.

(2) Use Tool

C-3977

adapter and gasket.

(3)

Reaching under fender from engine compartment, tip lower adapter and lift antenna assembly out through top of fender.

AD1 U STM

NTS

Antenna Trimming

All radios are trimmed at the factory and should require no further trimmer adjustment. However, whenever a radio is being installed after repair, or if verification of trimmer adjustment is desired, proceed as follows:

(1)

Extend antenna to

inches.

(2) Manually tune radio to noise or a weak signal between

1400 and 1600

K.C.

(3) Increase radio volume.

(4)

Remove the right radio control knobs for access to trimmer control (Fig.

2).

(5) Adjust antenna trimmer by carefully turning it back and forth until position is found that gives a peak response in volume. Maximum output indicates proper point of antenna trimmer adjustment.

/nstallatton

(1) Position spacer and lower adapter on antenna mast and insert the assembly in fender mounting hole by tipping adapter.

(2) Position lower adapter on tangs of spacer (Fig.

6).

(3) Install gasket, upper adapter and cap nut over top of antenna. Index upper adapter locating pins in two small holes in fender. Lubricate cap nut threads and tighten with Tool

C-3977

3). and snap grommet in place (Fig.

4).

(5) Disconnect alligator clip on heater fresh air flexible hose and separate from duct far enough to position antenna lead cable through opening and behind hose.

(6) Route cable lead over fresh air duct and connect to radio receiver.

Push

Buttons

(1)

Extend the radio antenna fully.

(2)

Turn the radio ON and allow a warm-up period of 15 minutes.

PRIMARY BATTERY POST

lnitial Antenna

installation

(1)

See Figure 5 for proper location of antenna mounting holes. Make template of heavy paper.

(2) After locating template on fender, center punch and drill the 3/16” holes

first

and the

1%’’

hole last.

(3) Raise carpet inside car and drill a

3/”

hole in outboard dimple on floor pan. This dimple can easily be located from inside engine compartment. There

Fig. 1-Ignition Coil Capacitor

Fig.

2-Antenna Trimmer

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1-8 RADIOS A N D ANTENNAS

CAP NUT UPPER GASKET

SPACER

ADAPTER

LOCATING PINS FENDER

UPPER ADAPTER SECTION NN355

Fig. 3-Antenna-Disassembled V i e w

are two dimples on the floor pan below the flange and to the right of engine. Use outboard dimple for antenna lead (Fig.

4).

(4)

Slide spacer and lower adapter over top of antenna mast and insert antenna lead and antenna into hole from top side of fender. Tip lower adapter on mast to permit adapter to slide through mounting hole. install gasket and upper adapter over top of antenna.

(Fig.

6).

Index upper adapter locating pins in two

3/16“

holes in fender. Lubricate cap nut threads and tighten with Tool C-3977 (Fig.

3).

(6)

3/”

hole in floor pan and snap grommet in place. Route antenna lead over fresh air duct. This can be done by disconnecting

Fig. 4-Antenna Lead Cable Routing

alligator clip on hose, pushing hose to right and leading antenna through opening.

(7) Connect antenna lead to radio receiver.

RADIO

CAUTION: Do not operate the radio with speaker leads detached since damage to the transistors may resu It.

Removal

(2) Remove radio control knobs.

LOCATE THIS LINE

ON COWL OPENING

LOCATE THIS

LINE

ON FENDER OPENING

NK340 A

CENTER PUNCH FOR

1-118’’ DIA. HOLE

CENTER PUNCH FOR 2

3/16“ DlA. HOLES (DRILL

THESE HOLES FIRST)

F l - 1 1

10”

Fig. 5-Antenna Mounting Template

2-1

14”

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2 - 9 / 3 2

RADIOS A N D ANTENNAS

1-9

FRONT SPEAKER TERMINALS

DARK

GREEN LEAD

EVE RBERATOR

Fig. 6-Antenna Assembled-Underside V i e w

(3) Remove radio mounting nuts.

(4)

If air conditioning equipped, remove distribution duct and three spot cooler hoses.

( 5 )

From under instrument panel disconnect speaker leads, radio feed wire and antenna lead cable at radio.

(6)

Remove radio to instrument panel mounting bracket and remove radio.

Installation

(1) From under instrument panel position radio in panel opening and install radio to instrument panel mounting bracket.

(2)

Connect speaker leads, radio feed wire and antenna lead cable.

(3) Install air conditioning distribution duct and three spot cooler hoses; if so equipped.

(4)

Install radio mounting nuts.

( 5 )

Install radio control knobs.

(6) Connect battery negative cable.

RADIO SPEAKERS

Front Speaker Removal

The radio speaker is removed from top of instrument panel.

(1) Remove the four screws that mount speaker grille to instrument panel and remove grille.

(2)

Remove the two screws that mount speaker mounting plate to instrument panel.

(3) Pivot speaker and mounting plate out of instrument panel using edge nearest windshield as pivot point.

(4)

Disconnect speaker leads.

(5)

Remove the four screws that mount speaker to mounting plate and remove speaker.

Installation

(1)

Position speaker to mounting plate and install the four mounting screws.

(2)

Position speaker and mounting plate in instru-

64x1 438

Fig.

7-Reverberator

Wire

Harness

(at Instrument Panel)

ment panel opening and connect speaker leads.

(3) Install the two screws that mount speaker and mounting plate to instrument panel.

(4)

Position speaker grille on instrument panel and install the four mounting screws.

Rear Seat Speaker

Removal

(1)

Remove spare tire.

(2)

Disconnect speaker leads.

(3)

Remove the

sheet metal screws holding speaker to shelf panel.

Installat ion

(1)

Position speaker under shelf panel and install

mounting screws.

(2) Connect speaker leads.

(3) Install spare tire and test operation of speaker.

Reverberator

(Fig.

7 )

shows the switch and wiring installation at the radio.

The reverberator is mounted to the left of the rear seat speaker under the shelf panel. To service the reverberator, remove the spare tire disconnect the speaker and power leads. Remove the two mounting screws and remove from the vehicle.

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1-10 WINDSHIELD WASHERS

WINDSHIELD WASHERS

GENERAL IN FORMATION

The windshield washers are operated by an electric motor driven pump to which fluid is gravity fed from a plastic reservoir (Fig.

1).

The motor is operated by depressing the windshield wiper knob.

The pump assembly is located in the engine compartment on the plastic reservoir. A permanently lubricated sealed motor is coupled to a gear type pump. Jets mounted in the fresh air intake grille of the cowl ventilator distributes fluid, routed through rubber hoses, to the windshield. A resetting circuit breaker mounted inside the pump will reset after a period of two minutes in the event of a frozen pump.

The circuit breaker is a serviceable item but the pump and motor are serviced as an assembly only.

Condition

INTERMITTENT

OPERATION

OF

SYSTEM

(b)

SE RVI C E DIAGNOSIS

Possible Cause

Faulty circuit breaker.

Loose wiring connections.

Correction

(a)

(b)

Replace circuit breaker.

Repair as necessary.

PUMP

INOPERATIVE

MOTOR RUNS

PUMP

ASSEMBLY

INOPERATIVE

(b)

(C)

(d)

(e)

Nozzle jets plugged.

Broken or loose hose.

Broken coupling.

Faulty pump.

Nozzle jet under air intake grille.

(b)

(C)

(d)

(e)

Loose wiring terminals.

Corroded terminals.

Broken wires.

Faulty switch.

Faulty motor.

(f)

Poor ground.

(€9

Faulty circuit breaker.

(b)

(C)

Clean nozzle jets.

Replace hose.

Replace motor and pump assembly.

(d)

(e)

Replace motor and pump assembly.

Adjust nozzles.

Tighten the terminals.

Clean and tighten the terminals.

Repair or replace the wires.

Replace the wiper switch assembly.

Replace the motor and pump assembly.

Clean the pump housing and tighten the mounting screws.

Replace the circuit breaker.

NOZZLE ADJUSTMENT

A slot is provided in the nozzle mounting bracket to compensate for lateral adjustment. Loosen the mounting screw and slide nozzle for proper clearance between the grille louvres. Vertical nozzle adjustment is made by inserting a small screwdriver into the cowl grille opening and bending the nozzle.

Adjust the nozzles so that the centers of the streams contact the windshield glass as shown in

(Fig.

2).

The oval pattern formed by

the

stream striking the windshield glass i s not "centered" on the center of the stream. The stream center is toward the bottom of the oval pattern.

CENTER LiNE OF

WINDSYIELD

INCHES

UPPER SPRA!

INCH

TARGET

YEA

NK355

POSITIVE DISPLACEMENT PUMP

FLUID OUT

Fig. I-Washer and Motor Assembly

MEASURE DOWN FROM

BOTTOM OF WINDSHIELD

MOULDING

Fig. 2-Washer Aiming Diagram

6 4 x l 5 2 A

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PUMP CIRCUIT BREAKER REPLACEMENT

(1) Empty reservoir and disconnect hoses from

Pump.

(2)

Disconnect wiring to pump and remove pump assembly from vehicle.

(3) Lift up pump cover retaining tabs and remove cover.

(4)

Unsolder circuit breaker lead from motor terminal.

(5)

Remove circuit breaker and terminal from pump and motor bracket.

HEATERS 1-11

(6)

Install new circuit breaker and terminal in slot in bracket. Press insulator firmly in place.

(7)

Solder bare end of circuit breaker lead to motor terminal using rosin core solder.

( 8 )

Install pump cover. Carefully bend retaining tabs in place.

(9)

Install pump and connect wiring terminal.

(10)

Connect hoses to pump.

(11)

Fill reservoir and test operation of washer system.

HEATERS

INDEX

Blower Motors

Controls

................................

Blower Motor Resistor Replacement

.....................

Control Cable Adjustment

.....................

Page

............

(See Instruments and

General Information

Heater

..........................

.......................................

Heater Core

Indicators-Group 8) Heater Doors

..................................

.................................

Rear Window Defroster

.......................

Page

GENERAL INFORMATION

All models use a “Blend Air” type heater.

Fresh air enters the heater through the cowl grille and passes through a plenum chamber to the heater core. A temperature control door in the heater plenum chamber directs the fresh air either through or past the heater core. The amount of “blend” is controlled by the setting of the temperature lever on the instrument panel. Direction of the “blended air” is controlled by the “Heat-Defrost” push button on the instrument panel (Fig.

1).

The three push buttons (OFF, HEAT, DEF.) control the position of the heater regulator and heater defroster doors inside the heater assembly. When the

OFF button is pressed, both of the doors are in the closed position. When the HEAT button is pressed, the heater regulator door is open and the heater defroster door is closed. When the DEF button is pressed, both of the doors are in the open position.

The opening and closing action of the doors is achieved by the use of vacuum actuators on the heater assembly.

Heating the Vehicle

When the temperature gauge indicates a warm condition of the engine coolant, move the temperature control lever to the WARM position. Position the fan switch to the high blower speed position and press the HEAT button. The temperature inside the vehicle can then be maintained at the desired level by using the fan switch and the temperature control lever.

W a r m Weather Ventilation

Two fresh air intakes are provided to allow outside air to be brought inside the vehicle. The air vent controls are located on the lower edge of the instrument panel on either side of the steering column.

Dur- ing cold weather, be sure the air vent controls are in the closed position.

Condition

S U F FI C I

TOO MUCH HEAT

BLOWER MOTOR

NOT OPERATING

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible

Cause Correction

(a) Coolant too low.

(b)

Engine thermostat open.

(d) Obstructed heater hose.

(e) Radiator hoses leaking.

(f)

Radiator cap leaking.

(a) Fill the radiator.

(b) Replace thermostat. to shut-off (c) Replace vacuum line.

(d) Replace heater hoses.

(e) Correct leak and bleed system.

(f) Pressure test cap and replace, if necessary.

(a) Disengaged cable.

(b) Thermostat stuck

(a) Blown fuse. in closed position.

(a) Connect

replace cable.

(b) Replace thermostat.

(a) Check for excessive resistance circuit and replace fuse. in

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1-12 HEATERS

Condition

Possible Cause

(b)

Faulty electrical connection.

(d)

Faulty motor.

Correction

(b) Tighten all electrical connections.

(d)

Replace motor.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

CONTROL CABLE ADJUSTMENT

On vehicles equipped with a radio the radio must be removed for servicing of the temperature controls.

(1)

Remove temperature control knob.

(2)

From under instrument panel remove right defroster hose.

(3) From under instrument panel remove two nuts that mount heater control assembly to instrument panel and lower control assembly below instrument panel.

(4)

Disconnect temperature control cable at heater assembly. so approximately

inch of cable housing extends beyond cable retaining clip.

For Heater and Switch Re- moval, see

"Switches in Instruments and Indicators"-

Group

(6) Install control assembly on instrument panel.

(7) Connect right defroster hose.

(8)

Place temperature control cable in extreme left position and connect cable to temperature control door on heater assembly while holding door in extreme right position.

(9) Install temperature control knob.

HEATER REMOVAL

(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.

(2)

In engine compartment disconnect heater hoses at dash panel. Plug hose fittings on heater to prevent any coolant from spilling on inside of vehicle as heater assembly is removed.

(3) From under instrument panel, remove bracket from top of heater to dash panel.

(4)

Remove defroster hoses at heater and disconnect actuator vacuum hoses.

(5) Disconnect wiring at heater blower motor resistor.

(6)

Remove glove box.

(7) Disconnect control cable at heater end.

(8)

Unclamp flexible connector at right end of heater.

Not Remove Connector.

(9)

Pull carpet or mat out from under instrument panel.

(10) From inside engine compartment, remove the three nuts that mount heater assembly to dash panel.

(11)

Pull heater assembly toward rear of vehicle until mounting studs are clear of dash panel. Rotate heater assembly until studs are down and remove heater from under instrument panel.

DEFROSTER

OUTLETS

Fig. I-Heater-All Models

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Fig.

2-Heater Hose Connections

HEATER INSTALLATION (Fig. 2)

(1) Position heater assembly under instrument panel with mounting studs down.

(2)

Push heater toward front of vehicle while rotating heater until mounting studs are in line with mounting holes in dash panel. Push heater until studs protrude through dash panel.

(3)

From in engine compartmeent, install three heater assembly mounting nuts.

(4)

From under instrument panel, install flexible connector at right end of heater.

(5)

Connect and adjust the control cable at heater assembly. See “Control Cable Adjustment.”

(6)

Connect wiring at heater blower motor resistor.

(7)

Install defroster hoses and install actuator vacuum hoses.

(8)

Install heater to dash panel bracket.

(9) Install glove box.

(10) Position carpet or mat under instrument panel.

(11) From in engine compartment, remove plugs from hose fittings and connect hoses to heater.

(12) Connect battery negative cable and fill cooling system.

(13)

Start engine, operate heater and bleed air from heater system.

HEATER CORE

Removal

(1)

Remove heater as outlined in “Heater Removal.”

(2)

Remove heater cover plate.

(3)

Remove screws that mount heater core to heater assembly and remove core.

lnstallation

(1)

Position core into heater assembly and install mounting screws.

(2)

Install heater cover plate.

(3)

Install heater as outlined in “Heater Installa- tion.”

HEATER BLOWER MOTOR

Removal

(1)

Remove heater as outlined in “Heater Removal.”

HEATERS 1-13

(2)

Disconnect wiring from heater assembly to blower motor.

(3)

Remove heater backplate from heater assembly.

(4)

Remove fan from shaft of blower motor.

(5)

Remove blower motor from heater backplate.

lns~allation

(1)

Install blower motor on heater backplate.

(2)

Install fan on shaft of blower motor. Adjust for clearance between fan and blower motor.

(3)

Install heater backplate assembly on heater assembly.

(4)

Connect wiring from heater assembly to blower motor.

(5) Install heater as outlined in “Heater Installa- tion.”

BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR REPLACEMENT

(1)

From under instrument panel, disconnect wiring at resistor.

(2)

Remove two screws that mount resistor to heater assembly and remove resistor.

(3)

Position new or repaired resistor into heater assembly and install two mounting screws.

(4)

Connect wiring to resistor.

HEATER DOOR SERVICE

For service of either the heater regulator door, heater defroster door or the fresh air intake door, the heater must be removed from the vehicle and disassembled. Refer to “Heater Removal and Installation.”

REAR WINDOW DEFROSTER-ALL MODELS

To service the blower motor or fan, the assembly must be removed from the shelf panel from inside the luggage compartment.

After disconnecting the outlet hose and wire connector, remove the three mounting screws from the mounting clips and remove the assembly from the vehicle for service.

Disassembly

(1)

Remove the three blower motor adapter plate to housing mounting screws and withdraw motor and fan assembly from housing.

(2)

Loosen fan set screw on fan hub and slide fan from motor shaft.

(3)

Remove the two motor adapter plate mounting nuts and separate motor from plate.

Assembly

(1)

Position adapter plate on motor studs and install the two mounting nuts.

(2)

Install fan on motor shaft and insert assembly in housing. Check fan to housing clearance and adjust if necessary.

(3)

Install the three blower motor adaptor plate to housing mounting screws.

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G R O U P

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE

ALIGNMENT

BALL JOINTS

CAMBER.

CASTER

..........................

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4 CONTROLARM

PIVOT SHAFT

........................

HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT

Page

3

9

7

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

. . . . . . . .

8 SPECIFICATIONS

STEERING ARM

STRUT

......................

.......................

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

SWAY BAR

TOE-IN

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

TORSION BAR

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

WHEEL ALIGNMENT

Page

10

5

8

4

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4 GENERAL INFORMATION

The torsion bar rear anchors are integral with the engine rear support member and the front anchors, which are part of the lower control arms, provide the means of adjusting vehicle front height. The lower ball joints are integral with the steering arms. Com- pression type lower ball joints are used on a l l models.

A l l ball joints and t h e torsion bars at the front of the rear anchors are effectively sealed against road splash by tightly fitted balloon type flexible seals. The ball joints and tie r o d ends are of the semi-permanent lubricated type.

Lower ball joints, steering arm assemblies, should not be replaced for looseness if the axial end play (Up and Down movement) is under

.050

inch. Looseness of this nature i s not detrimental and will not affect front wheel alignment or vehicle stability.

When lubrication of the ball joints and tie r o d end assemblies is required remove the plugs and install a lubrication fitting. After the lubricating, reinstall the plugs.

Service replacement ball joints are equipped with a

"Knock-Off" type lubrication fitting. After lubrication knock off that portion of the fitting over which the lubrication gun was installed. A ball check is installed in the remaining portion of the fitting to prevent foreign materials from passing through.

The tie r o d end seals and seal protectors are serviced separately and should be inspected for damage at a l l o i l change periods.

Caster and camber adjustments are controlled by cams on the upper control arm pivot bolts.

Rubber bushings should not be lubricated at any- time.

ON MODELS EQUIPPED W I T H DISC BRAKES, RE-

FER

GROUP

FOR BRAKE DRUM REMOVAL

A N D INSTALLATION PROCEDURES.

Condition

FRONT END NOISE

SERVlC E D I

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Ball joint needs lubrication. (a) Lubricate ball joint.

(b) Shock absorber inoperative or bush-

(b)

Replace bushings. ings worn.

(d)

Loose struts.

(d) Inspect bushings and tighten strut

(e) Loose steering gear on frame.

(f)

(g)

Worn upper control arm bushings.

Worn lower control arm shaft bush- i ngs. nuts.

(e) Tighten steering gear mounting bolts.

(f) Replace worn bushings.

(g) Replace worn bushings.

(h) Excessively worn upper or lower ball (h) Replace ball joint. joint.

(i) Worn tie rod ends.

(j) Loose or worn front wheel bearings.

(i) Replace tie rod end.

(j) Adjust or replace bearings as neces- sa ry.

(k) Steering arm contacting the control (k) Smooth off contacting areas and lu- arm or strut. bricate with a water resistant grease.

POOR DIRECTIONAL

STAB1 LlTY

(a) Low or uneven tire pressure.

(b) Loose wheel bearings.

(a) Inflate tires to correct pressure.

(b) Adjust wheel bearing.

(d) Steering gear not centered.

(e) Worn idler arm bushing.

(d) Adjust steering gear.

(e) Replace bushing.

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2-2

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE

Condition

Possible Cause Correction

(f) Loose or failed front strut bushings. (f) Replace bushings.

(g) Weak or broken rear spring. (g) Replace spring.

(h) Incorrect front wheel alignment or (h) Measure and adjust front wheel align- suspension heights. ment and suspension heights.

(i) Shock absorber inoperative. (i) Replace shock absorber.

HARD STEERING

(a) Ball joints need lubrication.

(b) Low or uneven tire pressure.

(d) Lack of assist of power steering system.

(e) Low front suspension height.

(f) Incorrect front wheel alignment (particularly caster) resulting from a bent control arm, steering knuckle or steering knuckle arm.

(g) Steering gear low on lubricant.

(h) Steering gear not adjusted properly.

(i) Idler arm binding.

(a) Lubricate ball joints.

(b) Inflate tires to the recommended pressures.

(d) Inspect and test steering pump and gear. Service as required.

(e) Adjust heights to specifications.

(f) Replace bent parts and adjust front wheel alignment.

(g) Fill steering gear to the correct level.

(h) Adjust steering gear.

(i) Free-up idler arm.

EXCESSIVE PLAY I N

STEERING

VEHICLE PULLS

ONE SIDE

(a) Worn or loose front wheel bearings. (a) Adjust or replace wheel bearings as necessary.

(b) Incorrect steering gear adjustment. (b) Adjust steering gear.

(d) Worn tie rod ends.

(e)

Worn steering gear parts.

(f) Worn upper control arm ball joints.

(g)

Worn lower control arm ball joints.

(h) Worn idler arm bushings.

(d) Replace tie rods as necessary.

(e) Replace worn steering gear parts and adjust steering gear as necessary.

(f) Replace ball joints.

(g) Replace ball joints.

(h) Replace bushing.

FRONT WHEEL SHIMMY

(a) Tire and wheel out of balance.

(b) Uneven tire wear, or excessively worn tires.

(d) Worn tie rod ends.

(e) Strut mounting bushings loose or worn.

(f) Incorrect front wheel alignment and car height (particularly caster.)

(g) Upper ball joints loose or excessively worn.

(a)

Balance wheel and tire assembly.

(b) Rotate or replace tires as necessary.

(d) Replace tie rod ends.

(e) Replace strut mounting bushings.

(f) Adjust front wheel alignment and car height.

(g) Replace as necessary.

(a) Low or uneven tire pressure.

(b) Front brake dragging.

(d) Loose strut bushings.

(a) Inflate tires to the recommended pressure.

(b) Adjust brakes.

(d) Inspect bushings. Tighten nuts to specifications.

(e) Adjust steering gear control valve.

(e) Power steering control valve out of adjustment.

(f) Incorrect front wheel alignment (particularly caster).

(g) Broken or sagging front or rear spring.

(h) Excessively worn suspension pivot bushings.

(f) Adjust front wheel alignment.

(g) Replace spring.

(h) Replace bushings.

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FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE 2-3

PREPARATION FOR MEASURING WHEEL

ALIGNMENT

Front wheel alignment is the mechanics of adjusting all the interrelated factors (Fig.

affecting the running and steering of the front wheels of the vehicle. Incorrect alignment of front wheels may sult in hard steering, abnormal re- tire wear, or braking problems.

The method of measuring the alignment will vary, depending on the type of equipment being used.

The instructions furnished by the manufacturer of the equipment should always be followed, however, the specifications as recommended by the Chrysler

Motors Corporation should always be used.

All inspections and adjustments should be made in the following order:

Front Suspension Height

Caster and Camber

Toe-In

Steering Axis Inclination

Toe-Out On Turns

An inspection of the steering axis inclination and toe-out on turns is valuable in determining if parts are bent or damaged, particularly when adjustments will not bring camber and caster within specifications.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MODIFY ANY SUSPENSION

OR STEERING PARTS BY HEATING OR BENDING.

Before any attempt is made to adjust caster, camber or toe-in, the following inspections and necessary corrections must be made on those parts which influence the steering of the vehicle.

(1)

Inflate tires to the recommended pressure. All tires should be same size, in good condition and have equal wear. Note type of wear to aid in diagnosing.

(2)

Inspect suspension and steering linkage pivot points for excessive looseness, rear springs for proper tightness of left and right sides of vehicle. The vehicle shall be on a level floor, or alignment rack and should have a full fuel tank but no luggage or passenger load.

(3)

Adjust front wheel bearings (Group

22).

Meas- ure front wheel and tire assembly runout (follow the

Equipment Manufacturers Instructions).

(4)

To obtain accurate readings, vehicle should be jounced in following manner just prior to taking each measurement (Height-Caster-Camber and Toe): Grasp bumpers at center (rear bumper first) and jounce up and down several times. Release bumpers on down cycle after jouncing both rear and front ends an equal number of times.

STEERING AXIS INCLINATION

HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT

Front suspension heights must be held to specifications for a satisfactory ride, correct appearance, proper front alignment and reduced tire wear.

The heights should only be measured when vehicle has the recommended tire pressures, a full tank of fuel

(see

Capacity Chart), no passenger load and is on a level floor or alignment machine.

(1) Clean all foreign material from bottom of steering knuckle arm assemblies and from lowest area of

POSITIVE

CASTER

NEGATIVE

CASTER

POSITIVE

CAMBER

NEGATIVE

CAMBER

PIVOT POINT

I -

.TOE-OUT ON TURNS

‘

CENTER

‘

N K 3 7 2

Fig. I-Wheel Alignment Factors

Fig. 2-Measuring

Front

Suspension Heights

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2-4 FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE

+ height adjusting blades directly below center of lower control arm inner pivots.

(2) Jounce vehicle several times releasing it downward motion. on

(3) Measure distance from lowest point of one adjusting blade to floor (measurement A) and from lowest point of steering knuckle arm, on same side

(measurement

B) to floor (Fig. 2).

Measure only one side at a time.

Refer to Specifications for differential between measurement A and B.

(4)

Measure other side in same manner. The maximum allowable difference in suspension height from side to side is ‘/s inch on all models.

( 5 )

Adjust by turning torsion bar adjusting bolt clockwise to increase height and counterclockwise to decrease height.

(6)

After each adjustment jounce vehicle before remeasuring. Both sides should be measured even though only one side has been adjusted.

WHEEL ALIGNMENT

Front wheel alignment settings must be held to specifications to hold tire wear to a minimum and to maintain steering ease and handling of vehicle.

The equipment manufacturers recommended procedure should always be followed.

Any parts of the front suspension system found to be bent, should be replaced. Do not attempt to straighten any bent parts.

Camber

and

Caster

(1)

Prepare vehicle for measuring front wheel alignment.

(2)

Remove all foreign material from exposed threads of cam adjusting bolts.

(3) Record initial camber and caster readings before loosening cam bolt nuts.

(4)

Camber setting should be held as close as possible to the “preferred” setting. Caster should be held as nearly equal as possible on both wheels. Tighten cam bolt nuts

foot-pounds.

Fig. 3-Torsion

Bar

NK377

TO E-I N

The toe setting should be the final operation of front wheel alignment adjustments. The front wheels must be in a straight ahead position. Follow the equipment manufacturers procedure. The steering wheel should be centered during this operation.

Turning tie rod sleeve will “center” steering wheel spokes. If steering wheel was centered, make toe-in adjustment by turning both sleeves an equal amount.

lighten clamp bolt nuts

15 foot-pounds with the clamp rotated so the bolts are on the bottom,

otherwise interference with the torsion bars in jounce may result.

TORSION BARS

The torsion bars are

not

interchangeable side for side. The bars are marked either right or left by an

“R” or an “L” stamped on one end of bar.

Removal

(1) Remove upper control arm rebound bumper.

(2)

If vehicle is to be raised on a hoist, make sure it is lifted on body only so front suspension is in full rebound (under no load).

(3) Release all load from torsion bar (Fig. 3) by turning anchor adjusting bolt counterclockwise.

(4) Slide rear anchor balloon seal off of rear anchor and remove lock ring and plug from anchor.

(5)

Remove torsion bar by sliding bar out through rear of anchor. Tool C-3728 may be used to aid in removal. Use car@ not to damage balloon seal when it is removed from torsion bar.

Inspection

(1)

Inspect balloon seal for damage and replace if necessary.

(2) Inspect torsion bar for scores and nicks. Dress down all scratches and nicks to remove the sharp edges, then paint repaired area with a rust preventa- tive.

(3)

Remove all foreign material from hex openings in anchors and from hex ends of torsion bars.

(4)

Inspect torsion bar adjusting bolt and swivel for corrosion or other damage and if necessary replace. Lubricate for easy operation.

Installation

(1) Insert torsion bar through rear anchor.

(2)

Slide balloon seal o v a . torsion bar (cupped end toward rear of bar).

(3) Coat both hex ends of torsion bar with multi- mileage lubricant.

(4)

Slide torsion bar into hex opening of lower control arm.

(5)

Install plug and lock ring in rear anchor.

(6)

Pack annular opening in rear anchor completely full of multi-mileage lubricant.

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sH'ELD\T>

KNUCKLE ARM

& r

SHIELD

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE 2-5

Fig. 4-Steering Linkage

(7) Position balloon seal on rear anchor seal engages with groove in anchor. so lip of

(8)

Turn adjusting bolt clockwise to place a load on torsion bar.

(9) Lower vehicle to floor and adjust front suspension height.

(10) Install upper control arm rebound bumper and tighten nut 200 inch-pounds.

STEERING LINKAGE (Figs. 4 and 5)

The tie rod end seals and covers should be inspected at all oil change periods.

Removal of tie rod ends from steering knuckle arm or center link by methods other than recommended tools may damage tie rod end seal.

Damaged seals require removal of seals and inspection of

If tie rod assembly end at the throat opening. parts have not lost all the lubricant and are not contaminated, worn or rusted, use new seals and install, otherwise, a new complete tie re- rod end assembly should be installed. Lubricate tie rod end assembly.

CENTER

TIE

ROD END

ASSEMBLY

Fig. 5-Steering Linkage (Installed)

NK379A

Fig.

6-Removing Outer Tie Rod End

Removal

(1)

Remove tie rod ends from steering knuckle arms using Tool C-3742 (Fig. 6)

Use care not to damage seals.

(2) Using Tool C-3742 remove inner tie rod ends from center link.

(3)

Remove idler arm stud from center link and from crossmember using Tool (2-3894.

(4) Remove steering gear arm stud from center link, using Tool C-3894.

lnstallation

Replace all tie rod and steering arm assemblies that are damaged or excessively warn.

(1) Position idler arm stud in crossmember bracket and insert washer and nut. Tighten nut 45 foot- pounds maximum and install cotter pin.

(2) Place center link over idler arm and steering gear arm studs and tighten nuts 40 foot-pounds. In- stall cotter pins.

(3) Connect tie rod ends to steering knuckle arms.

Tighten nuts to 40 foot-pounds. Slide stone protector into position and install cotter pins.

(4)

Adjust front wheel toe.

STEERING KNUCKLES

O N MODELS EQUIPPED W I T H DISC BRAKES, RE-

FER TO GROUP 5 FOR BRAKE DRUM REMOVAL

A N D INSTALLATION PROCEDURES.

Removal

(1)

Remove upper control arm rebound bumper.

(2) Raise vehicle so bound (under no load). front suspension is in full re-

(3)

Remove wheel, tire and drum as an assembly.

(4) Remove all load from torsion bar by turning adjusting bolt counterclockwise.

(5) Remove upper ball joint stud from steering- knuckle using Tool C-3964.

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2-6

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE

NK383

Fig. 7-Sway Bar Assembly

(6) Remove two upper bolts securing steering- knuckle to brake support.

(7) Remove two lower bolts attaching steering arm to steering knuckle and remove steering knuckle.

Support brake assembly during this operation to p r e vent damage to brake hose when lower bolts are removed.

lnstallation

(1) Position steering knuckle on brake support and install upper mounting bolts and nuts finger tight only.

(2) Position steering knuckle arm on steering knuckle and install mounting bolts and nuts finger tight only.

(3) Install upper ball joint stud in steering knuckle and tighten ball joint stud nut 100 foot-pounds and install cotter pin.

Fig. 9-Removing Lower Ball Joint

(4)

Tighten steering knuckle upper bolt nuts

foot-pounds. Tighten lower bolt nuts

foot-pounds and install cotter pin.

( 5 )

Place a load on torsion bar by turning adjusting bolt clockwise.

(6)

Install wheel tire and drum assembly and adjust front wheel bearing (Group 22).

(7) Lower vehicle to floor and install upper control arm rebound bumper. Tighten nut

200 inch-pounds.

(8)

Adjust front wheel alignment as necessary.

SWAY BAR (Fig.

7)

Removal

(1)

Remove two sway bar link retaining nuts and retainers.

(2) Remove two sway bar cushion retaining nuts, washers, straps and bolts (one to each strut) and remove sway bar assembly.

(3) Remove sway bar link insulating bushings from frame bracket. If bushings are worn or deteriorated install new bushings.

lnstallation

(1) Using a twisting motion, install sway bar link bushings. Water may be used as a lubricant to aid in installation.

FRONT BUSHING

REAR

RETAINER

Fig. 8-Lower Control Arm

RETAINER

NK386

Fig. IO-Strut Bushing

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FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE

2-7

(2)

Position sway bar cushion retainers on struts and install straps.

(3) Insert bolts, washers and nuts. Tighten to 30 foot-pounds.

(4) Install retainers over ends of links (concave side up). Slide links up through bushings and install retainers (concave side down). Install nuts and tighten to 100 inch-pounds.

LOWER CONTROL ARM AND SHAFT (Fig. 8)

O N MODELS EQUIPPED W I T H DISC BRAKES, RE-

FER TO GROUP 5 FOR BRAKE DRUM REMOVAL

A N D INSTALLATION PROCEDURES.

Removal

(1) Remove torsion bar from lower control arm.

(2)

Remove cotterpin and slide tie rod end seal protector up steering knuckle arm. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle arm using Tool C-3742 (Fig.

6).

Use care not to damage seal.

(3) Remove sway bar to strut attaching straps.

(4) Remove steering knuckle arm to brake s u p port bolts and remove steering knuckle arm. Move brake support assembly out of the way.

Do not allow brake support to hang by the brake hose.

(5) Remove ball joint stud from lower control arm using Tool (2-3964 (Fig.9)

The bottom portion of the tool must be positioned between seal and control arm to avoid seal damage.

(6) Remove strut front nut and bushing retainer.

(7) Remove cotter pin, nut and washer from lower control arm pivot shaft.

(8) Tap end of lower control arm shaft with a

“soft end” hammer to aid in removal of shaft from crossmember.

(9) Remove lower control arm, shaft and strut as an assembly.

(10) Remove strut bushings (Fig.10) from crossmember.

Fig.

I I

-Removing Pivot Shaft

DRIFT

(11)

Remove strut bushing inner retainer from strut.

Disassembly

(1) Place strut portion of lower arm assembly in a vise and remove nut from strut.

(2) Remove strut from control arm.

(3) Remove torsion bar adjusting bolt and swivel from control arm.

(4) Place lower control arm assembly in an arbor press with torsion bar hex opening up and with a support under outer edge of control arm (Fig. 11).

(5) Place a brass drift into hex opening and press pivot shaft out of control arm (Fig.

11).

The bushing inner shell will remain on shaft.

(6) Remove rubber portion of bushing from control arm.

(7) Remove bushing inner shell from pivot shaft.

(8)

Remove bushing outer shell by cutting with a chisel.

Use care not to cut into control arm.

Assembly

(1)

Place new bushing on shaft (flange end of bushing first) and seat bushing on shoulder of shaft.

(2)

Press pivot shaft and bushing assembly into control arm using Tool C-3556 and an arbor press.

In some instances, it may be necessary to reduce shoulder diameter of shaft to facilitate the use of Tool

C-3556.

(3) Install torsion bar adjusting bolt and swivel.

(4) Position strut in lower control arm and tighten nut 100 foot-pounds.

Installation

(1) Install strut bushings (Fig. 10) in crossmember.

(2)

Place strut bushing inner retainer on strut and position control arm, shaft and strut assembly into crossmember. Install strut front bushing, sleeve and retainer. Tighten nut finger tight only.

(3) Install control arm pivot shaft washer and nut finger tight only.

(4) Position lower ball joint stud into control arm and tighten nut 115 foot-pounds. Install cotter pin.

(5) Position brake support on steering knuckle and install two upper bolts and nuts finger tight only.

(6) Position steering knuckle arm on steering knuckle and install two lower bolts and nuts.

(7)

Tighten upper bolt nuts 55 foot-pounds and the lower bolt nuts 80 foot-pounds.

(8)

Inspect tie rod seal for damage and replace if damaged. Connect tie rod end to steering knuckle arm and tighten nut 40 foot-pounds. Slide tie rod end seal protector over tie rod end and install cotter pin.

(9) Connect shock absorber to control arm and tighten nut 55 foot-pounds.

(10) Install torsion bar.

(11) Install wheel, tire and drum assembly and adjust front wheel bearings (Group

22).

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2-8 FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE

+ nut, at crossmember,

foot-pounds. foot pounds and install cotter pin. strut

180

tie rod end seal for damage and replace if damaged. Connect tie rod end to steering knuckle arm and tighten nut

foot-pounds. Slide tie rod end seal protector over nut and install cotter pin.

LOWER CONTROL ARM STRUT

Removal

(1)

Remove lower control arm, shaft and strut as an assembly. strut

(Fig.

to lower control arm and remove strut from lower control arm.

hstallation

taining nut

100

foot-pounds. re-

LOWER BALL JOINTS

MODELS EQUIPPED W I T H DISC BRAKES, RE-

FER TO GROUP

FOR BRAKE DRUM REMOVAL

AND INSTALLATION PROCEDURES.

Removal

The compression type lower ball joint is integral with the steering arm (Figs.

and

and is not serviced separately. Lower ball joints (steering arm assembly) should not be replaced if the axial end play is under

.050

(2)

Raise vehicle

front suspension is in full rebound. Remove all load from torsion bar by turning adjusting bolt counterclockwise.

It may be necessary to back-off brake shoes to facilitate removal of drum assembly. bolt clockwise. tire and drum assembly and adjust front wheel bearing (Group

22).

arm rebound bumper. Tighten to

200

inch-pounds.

UPPER CONTROL ARM

Removal

(1)

Place a jack under lower control arm as close to wheel as possible. Raise vehicle until wheel clears the floor.

Remove wheel and tire as an assembly.

(3)

Remove upper ball joint stud nut and using

Tool attaching upper control arm and bushing (Fig.

12)

to support brackets. Lift control arm up and away from support.

(5) Remove ball joint using Tool

The seal will come off as ball joint is removed.

13).

Assemble Tool

C-3962

and press bushing out of arm (Fig.

14).

Assembly

When installing new bushings, be sure control arm is supported squarely at point where bushing is being taching steering arm and ball joint assembly to steering knuckle.

Tool

C-3894. not to damage seal.

(6)

Using Tool

(2-3964

lower control arm (Fig. and ball joint assembly.

9),

and remove steering arm

lnstallation

seal fully down on ball joint housing until it is securely locked in position. (On police and taxi vehicles, install seal using Tool

(2-3736).

steering knuckle and install two mounting bolts.

Tighten nuts to

foot-pounds.

115

foot-pounds. Install cotter pin and lubricate ball joint.

NK374

Fig.

12-Upper Control Arm

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FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE 2-9

Fig. 13-Removing or lnstalling Upper

Ball

Joint

pressed in.

Do not use oil or grease to aid in installation.

(1)

Position flange end of new bushing in Tool

C-3962.

Support control arm squarely, and install bushing (from the outside) until tapered portion of bushing seats on arm (Fig.

15).

(2)

Install ball joint into arm using tool

C-3560

(Fig.

13).

Tighten until seated

(125

foot-pounds minimum).

The ball joint will cut threads into a new arm during tightening operations.

(3)

Install ball joint balloon seal. Make certain seal is seated fully down on housing.

Installation

(1)

Slide upper control arm into position and install cam bolts, cams, washers and nuts (Fig.

12).

Tighten nuts in preparation for final adjustments.

(2)

Slide upper ball joint stud into position in steering knuckle and install nut. Tighten nut

100

foot- pounds and install cotter pin. Tighten lower stud nut

100

foot-pounds.

NK380

Fig. 14-Removing Upper Control Arm Bushings

Fig. 15-Installing Upper Control Arm Bushings

(3)

Install wheel, tire and adjust bearing (Group

22).

(4)

Adjust suspension height and wheel alignment.

UPPER BALL JOINTS

Removal

(1)

Raise vehicle by placing a jack under lower control arm as close as possible to wheel.

(2)

Remove wheel, tire and drum as an assembly.

(3)

Remove upper ball joint stud using Tool

C-3964.

(4)

Remove tool, then remove ball joint stud from steering knuckle.

(5)

Using Tool

C-3560

remove ball joint from upper control arm (Fig.

13).

The seal will come off as ball joint is being removed.

Installation

When installing a ball joint, it i s very important that ball joint threads engage those of control arm squarely. Balloon type seals should always be replaced once they have been removed.

(1)

Screw ball joint squarely into control arm as far as possible by hand.

(2)

Using Tool

C-3560,

tighten ball joint until it bottoms on housing. Tighten to a minimum of

125

foot- pounds.

If ball joint cannot be torqued to 125 foot- pounds, inspect threads on ball joint and also in control arm and replace ball joint or control arm as necessary.

(3)

Install a new balloon seal. Make certain seal is seated fully on ball joint body.

(4)

Position ball joint stud in steering knuckle and install retaining nut.

(5)

Tighten nut

115

foot-pounds and install cotter pin. Lubricate ball joint.

(6)

Install lower ball joint stud nut and tighten to

100

foot-pounds. Install cotter pin.

(7)

Install wheel and drum assembly and adjust front wheel bearings (Group

22).

(8)

Lower vehicle and adjust front suspension height as necessary.

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2-10

FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE

SPECIFICATIONS

CAMBER

Left

Right

...........................................................

..........................................................

CASTER

Manual Steering

Power Steering

..............................................

................................................

(Max. difference between sides should not exceed

HEIGHT (inches)

................................

%"I

.:. .............

Side to Side Difference (Max.)

STEERING AXIS INCLINATION

TOE-I N

.................................

...................................

.........................................................

TOE-OUT ON TURNS

When Inner Wheel is

20"

(outer wheel is)

.......................

TORSION BARS

Length (Inches)

Diameter (inches)

...............................................

Std. Suspension

............................................. with Air Conditioning

Heavy Duty Suspension

......................................

TREAD (inches)

Front

Rear

.........................................................

WHEEL BASE (inches)

...........................................

+ V 4 O

+Y4"

+ 1 / 2 O

preferred)

(+%" preferred)

-1"

V 4 O

1%"

1%

inch

7.5"

inch)

18.8"

0.94

0.96

0.98

62.0

60.7

121.5

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

FOOT

INCH

FOOT

INCH

Ball Joint-(Upper)

(at Center Link)

Shock Absorbers

F ron t-U p per

Lower

.................

Ball Joint-(Lower) Stud Nuts

Ball Joint-(Upper) Stud Nuts

Idler Arm Stud Nut

(at Mounting Bracket)

........

Control Arm (Lower) Pivot Shaft Nuts

(Rebound Bumper)

(Upper) Cam Bolt Nut

.............

...................

.....................

POUNDS

125

100

180

(Min.)

POUNDS

Steering Knuckle to Brake Support Bolt Nuts

........

115

(Upper)

(Lower)

....

Sway Bar

...........................

Strut-Front Bushing Nut

Cushion Housing Nuts

Link Nuts

Tie Rod Clamp Bolt Nuts

Tie Rod Stud Nuts

Wheel Mounting

............

200

Strut-To Control Arm Nuts

............

........................

............

(to Steering Knuckle Arms)

........

100

100

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G R O U P

REAR AXLE

Page

REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY

(83h”)

RING GEAR 2 SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL

Page

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

17 SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

SPECIFICATIONS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1 TIGHTENING REFERENCE

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

22

......................

21

Condition

REAR WHEEL NOISE

SCORING OF

DIFFERENTIAL

GEARS AND PINIONS

TOOTH BREAKAGE (RING

GEAR AND PINION)

REAR AXLE NOISE

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

Possible Cause Correction

)

(b)

Wheel loose.

Scored wheel bearing cup or cone.

Defective, brinelled wheel bearing.

(e)

Excessive axle shaft end play.

Bent or sprung axle shaft flange.

(a)

Insufficient lubrication.

(b) Improper grade of lubricant.

Excessive spinning of one wheel.

(b)

(C)

Tighten loose wheel nut.

Check rear wheel bearings. If scored or worn, replace.

Defective or brinelled bearings must be replaced. Check rear axle shaft end

(e) play.

Readjust axle shaft end play.

Replace bent or sprung axle shaft.

1

Replace scored gears. Scoring marks on the pressure face of gear teeth or i n the bore are caused by instanta- neous fusing of the mating surfaces

Scored gears should be replaced. Fill rear axle to required capacity with proper lubricant.

Replace scored gears. Inspect all

See Lubrication section.

Replace scored gears. Inspect all gears, pinion bores and shaft for scoring, or bearings for possible damage. Service as necessary.

(a)

Overloading.

Erratic clutch operation.

Ice-spotted pavements.

(d)

Normal fatigue.

(e)

Improper adjustment.

(a)

(b)

(C)

Replace gears. Examine other gears and bearings for possible damage. Re- place parts as needed. Avoid overloading.

Replace gears and examine remaining parts for possible damage. Avoid erratic clutch operation.

Replace gears. Examine remaining parts for possible damage. Replace parts as required.

Replace gears. Examine broken parts to determine cause of normal fatigue.

Replace gears. Examine other parts for possible damage. Make sure ring gear and pinion backlash is correct.

Insufficient lubricant. (a

Improper ring gear and pinion adjust- (b) ment.

Unmatched ring gear and pinion.

(C)

Refill rear axle with correct amount of the proper lubricant. See Specifica- tion section.

Also

check for leaks and correct as necessary.

Check ring gear and pinion tooth contact.

Remove unmatched ring gear and pin-

Worn teeth on ring gear or pinion.

Loose drive pinion bearings. and pinion set.

(d) Check teeth on ring gear and pinion for contact. If necessary replace with new matched set.

(e) Adjust drive pinion bearings.

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Condition

LOSS OF

LUBRICANT

OVERHEATING

UNIT

Possible Cause Correction

(f) Loose differential gear bearings.

(g) Misaligned or sprung ring gear.

(h) Loose carrier housing bolts.

(f) Adjust differential gear bearings.

(g) Check ring gear for runout.

(h) Tighten carrier housing nuts to required torque. See Service Standards.

Also, check for oil leaks and correct as necessary.

(i) Loose drive pinion companion flange (i) Tighten drive pinion flange nut to nut. torque specified under,

References”.

“Axle Torque

(a) Lubricant level too high.

(b) Worn axle shaft oil seals.

(d) Worn drive pinion oil seal.

(e) Scored and worn companion flange.

(f) Clogged breather.

(a) Drain excess lubricant by removing filler plug and allow lubricant to level a t lower edge of filler plug hole.

(b) Replace worn oil seals with new ones.

Prepare new seals before replacement.

(d) Replace worn drive pinion oil seal with a new one.

(e) Replace worn or scored companion flange and oil seal.

(f) Clean breather thoroughly.

(a) Lubricant level too low.

(b) Incorrect grade of lubricant.

(d) Excessive wear in gears.

(e) Insufficient ring gear to pinion clearance.

(a)

Refill rear axle.

(b)

Drain, flush and refill rear axle with correct amount of the proper lubricant. See Specification Section.

(d) Check gears for excessive wear scoring. Replace as necessary. or

(e) Readjust ring gear and pinion backlash and check gears for possible scoring.

REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY

8Y4”

RING GEAR

INDEX

Axle Shafts and Bearings

Axle Shaft End Play

.......................

............................

Differential and Carrier (Removal)

Page

...............

Differential and Carrier (Installation)

............

Differentia

Case

Lubrication

...............................

Drive Gear and Pinion Backlash

Gear Tooth

Contact Pattern

.................

.....................

...................................

Pinion Bearing Cup Installation

Page

.................

Pinion Bearing Preload and Pinion

Setting Using Tool C-758-D-4

Small Stem Pinion

Large Stem Pinion

..................

..........................

...........................

Pinion Bearingn Preload and Pinion

Setting Without Using Tool C-758-D4

Rear Axle Housing

...........

.............................

GENERAL INFORMATION

The

8%”

Rear Axle Assembly shown in (Fig.

l),

a semi-floating type and may be divided into four subassemblies; flanged axle drive shafts with related parts, (Fig. 2) differential with drive gear, drive pinion with carrier, and the axle housing. Servicing of the above mentioned subassemblies, with exception of the axle housing may be performed without removing the complete rear axle assembly from the vehicle.

Gear ratio identification numbers w i l l be stamped on a metal tag and attached by means of the rear axle housing-to-carrier bolt.

A Sure Grip Differential i s available in the 8%”

Axle Assembly. Refer to the “Sure Grip Differential”

Section of the Axle Group for the servicing procedure.

SHOULD THE REAR AXLE BECOME SUBMERGED

IN

WATER, THE LUBRICANT MUST BE CHANGED

IMMEDIATELY TO AVOID

THE

POSSIBILITY OF

EARLY AXLE FAILURE RESULTING FROM CON-

TAMINATION OF THE LUBRICANT B Y WATER

DRAWN

INTO

THE VENT.

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REAR AXLE 3-3

ADJUSTER .OIL SEAL

BUMPER

HOUSING

TEE SCREW

OIL SEAL

RIGHT

LEFT c ,

CONE

OIL SEAL'

RETAINER'

SHAFT

STUD

Fig. 1-8?4" Rear Axle Assembly (Disassembled)

AXLE SHAFTS A N D BEARINGS

SERVICE PROCEDURES

Removal

(1)

With wheels removed, remove clips holding brake drum on axle shaft studs and remove brake drum.

(2)

Using access hole in axle shaft flange, remove retainernuts, the right shaft with threaded adjuster in retainer plate will have a lock under one of the studs that should be removed at this time.

(3)

Remove parking brake strut.

(4)

Attach axle shaft remover Tool

C-3971

(Fig.

to axle shaft flange and remove axle shaft. Remove brake assembly and foam gaskets.

BLOCKS BEARING ADAPTER

SEAL BEARING

Fig. 2-Axle Shaft Disassembled

NK59A

SLEEVE

SP-5041

RING-BLOCK

HOLDING SP-5017

Fig. 3-Tool Set C-397

NK360

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3-4 REAR AXLE

NK56

Fig. 4-Removing Inner Seal

( 5 )

Remove axle shaft oil seal from axle housing using Tool

C-637

4).

new axle shaft oil seal using Tool

C-839

Disassembly

CAUTION: To prevent the possibility of damaging axle shaft seal surface, slide protective sleeve SP5041 over the seal surface next to bearing collar.

(1)

Position axle shaft bearing retaining collar on a heavy vise or anvil and using a chisel, cut deep grooves into retaining collar at

90"

intervals (Fig.

6).

This will enlarge bore of collar and permit driven off of axle shaft. it to be

(2)

Remove bearing roller retainer flange by cutting off lower edge with a chisel (Fig.

7).

(3) Grind a section off flange of inner bearing cone

(Fig.

8 )

and remove bearing rollers (Fig.

9).

(4)

Pull bearing roller retainer down as far as possible and cut with a pair of side cutters and remove

(Fig.

10).

(5)

Remove roller bearing cup and protective sleeve

CAUTION:

Sleeve SP5041 should not be used as a protector for the seal journal when pressing off the bearing cone, as it was not designed forthis purpose.

(6)

To avoid scuffing seal journal when bearing cone is being removed, it should be protected by single wrap of by a rubber band (Fig.

11).

C-3971

(Fig.

3).

Tighten bolts of tool alternately until cone is removed (Fig.

12).

place with new seal.

Assem bly

shaft

Fig. 6-Notching Bearing Retainer

Collar

(2)

Install a new axle shaft bearing cup, cone and collar on shaft using Tool

C-3971 13)

bolts of tool alternately until bearing and collar are seated properly. polish with

#SO0

crocus cloth if necessary.

(4)

Lubricate wheel bearings with Automotive

Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI, grade

2. v a

Fig. 5-lnstalling Inner Seal

NK57

Fig. 7-Removing the Roller Retainer

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REAR AXLE 3-5

“-.OO2 SHIM STOCK

Fig. 8-Flange Ground

Off

t h e Inner Cone Fig. 1 1 -Seal Journal Protection

BEARING

ROLLER

Fig. 9-Removing the Bearing Rollers

N K 3 5 8

SLEEVE

Fig. 12-Removing the Bearing Cone with Tool C-397 1

Fig. IO-Cutting Out the Roller Bearing Retainer

Fig. 13-Installing N e w Bearing and Collar

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3-6 REAR AXLE

lnstallat ion

(1)

Clean axle housing flange face thoroughly and install new gasket followed by brake support plate assembly on left side of axle housing.

(2)

Install foam gasket on the studs of axle housing and carefully slide axle shaft assembly through oil seal and engage splines in differential side gear.

(3)

Tap end of axle shaft lightly with a non-metallic mallet to position axle shaft bearing in housing bear-’ ing bore. Position retainer plate over axle housing studs. Install retainer nuts and tighten

30-35

foot- pounds. Start by tightening bottom nut.

(4)

Repeat step

(1)

(5)

Back off threaded adjuster of right axle shaft assembly until inner face of adjuster is flush with inner face of retainer plate. Carefully slide axle shaft assembly through oil seal and engage splines in differential side gears.

(6) Repeat step

(3).

AXLE SHAFT E N D PLAY

CAUTION:

When setting axle shaft end play, both rear wheels must be off the ground, otherwise a false end play setting will occur.

(1)

Using a dial indicator mounted on the left brake support (Fig.

14),

TURN THE ADJUSTER CLOCK-

WISE UNTIL BOTH WHEEL BEARINGS ARE

SEATED AND THERE IS ZERO END PLAY IN THE

AXLE SHAFTS. BACK OFF THE ADJUSTER

COUNTERCLOCKWISE APPROXIMATELY FOUR

NOTCHES TO ESTABLISH AN AXLE SHAFT END

PLAY OF

.013-.023

INCH.

(2)

Tap end of left axle shaft lightly with a non- metallic mallet to seat right wheel bearing cup against adjuster, and rotate axle shaft several revolutions so that a true end play reading is indicated.

(3)

Remove one retainer plate nut, install adjuster lock. If tab on lock does not mate with notch in adjuster, turn adjuster slightly until it does. Install nut

and tighten

30-35

foot-pounds.

(4)

Recheck axle shaft end play. If it is not within the tolerance of

.013-.023

inch, then repeat adjustment procedure.

(5)

Remove dial indicator and install brake drum, drum retaining clips and wheel.

REAR AXLE H O U S I N G

Removal

Should it become necessary to remove rear axle assembly for repair proceed as follows:

(1)

Raise vehicle and support body at front of rear springs.

(2)

Block brake pedal in the up position using a wooden block.

(3)

Remove rear wheels.

(4)

Disconnect hydraulic brake hose at connection on left side of underbody.

(5)

Disconnect parking brake cable.

(6) Disconnect propeller shaft at differential yoke and secure in an upright position to prevent damage to front universal joint.

(7)

Remove shock absorber from spring plate studs and loosen rear spring “U” bolt nuts and remove “U” bolts.

( 8 )

Remove the assembly from vehicle.

lnstallat ion

(1) With body of vehicle supported at front of rear springs, position the rear axle assembly spring seats over the spring center bolts.

(2)

Install spring “U” bolts and tighten nuts to

foot-pounds and install shock absorbers on spring plate studs. (DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

“U”

BOLT

NUTS.)

(3)

Connect propeller shaft at differential yoke and tighten rear clamp screws to

foot-pounds.

(4)

Connect parking brake cable.

(5) Connect hydraulic brake hose, bleed and adjust brakes.

(6)

Install rear wheels.

(7)

If carrier was removed from axle housing during the removal operation, fill axle with proper amount and type of lubricant; see “Specifications” in rear of “Axle” Group.

Fig. 14-Measuring Axle

Shaft

End Play

Welding Rear Axle Housing

The axle housing should be completely disassembled if it is to be welded with arc welding equipment. It is also possible to weld the assembled housing with gas welding equipment, if precaution is taken to protect gaskets and heat treated parts.

DIFFERENTIAL A N D CARRIER

Removal

(1)

Remove flanged axle drive shafts.

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REAR AXLE

3-7

Fig. 15-Checking for Runout and Zero End Play

(2)

Disconnect rear universal joint and support propeller up and out of the way to prevent damage to the front universal joint.

(3)

Remove the rear axle lubricant.

(4)

Loosen and remove the carrier-to-housing attaching nuts and lift the carrier assembly from axle housing.

Disassembly

Side play and runout check taken during disassembly will be very useful in reassembly.

(1)

Mount carrier in Stand

DD-1014

and attach dial indicator Tool

C-430

Tool carrier flange in a position

C-3339

so to differential pointer of indicator squarely contacts back face of ring gear (Fig.

15).

With a screw driver positioned between bearing cap and differential case flange, then using a prying motion determine if side play is present. If side play is evident, remove adjuster lock and loosen adjuster slightly and retighten adjuster sufficiently to eliminate side play.

(2)

Rotate drive gear several complete revolutions while noting total indicator reading. Mark drive gear and differential case at point of maximum runout.

The marking of differential case will be very useful later in checking differential case runout. Total indi-

Fig. 16-Removing Companion Flange

Fig. 17-Marking Bearing Caps and Adjusters

cator reading should be no more than

.005

inch. If runout exceeds

.005

inch the differential case may be damaged, and a second reading will be required after drive gear has been removed. This operation is covered during “Differential Disassembly.” Remove dial indicator.

(3)

With Tool

C-3281

hold companion flange and remove drive pinion nut and Belleville washer.

(4)

Install companion flange remover Tool

(3-452

and remove flange (Fig.

16).

(5)

Using a screwdriver and hammer, remove the drive pinion oil seal from the carrier.

(6)

While holding one hand over nose end of carrier, invert carrier in stand. The front pinion bearing cone, shim pack and bearing spacer (where used) will drop from carrier.

(7)

Apply identifying punch marks on differential bearing pedestals of carrier, differential bearing caps and bearing adjusters for reassembly purposes (Fig.

17).

(8)

Remove both differential bearing adjuster lock screws and locks.

(9)

With a

inch socket, loosen bearing cap bolts

(one on each side) and back off bearing adjusters slightly using spanner wrench Tool

C-406A;

to remove differential bearing preload. Remove bearing cap bolts, caps and bearing adjusters.

(10) Remove differential and ring gear assembly with bearing cups. Differential bearing cups must be kept with respective bearing cones.

(11)

Remove drive pinion and rear bearing assembly from carrier.

Rear Pinion Bearing Removal

(1)

Remove drive pinion rear bearing from pinion with spacer (where used) with Tool

C-293

and four

(4)

No.

plates,

four

(4)

No.

plates on pinion without the spacer (Fig.

18).

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3-8 REAR AXLE

PLATES

KD374A

Fig. 18-Removing Drive Pinion Rear Bearing

(2)

Using a flat end brass drift, remove front and rear pinion bearing cups.

DIFFERENTIAL CASE

Disassembly

(1)

Mount differential case and ring gear assembly in a vise equipped with soft jaws (brass).

(2)

Remove drive gear bolts. BOLTS ARE LEFT

HAND THREAD. With a non-metallic hammer, tap drive gear loose from differential case pilot and remove.

(3)

If drive gear runout exceeded

.005

inch in step

(under “Carrier Disassembly”), recheck the case as follows: Install differential case and respective bearing cups in carrier.

(4)

Install bearing caps, cap bolts and bearing adjusters. Tighten bearing cap bolts down lightly and screw in both adjusters with spanner wrench Tool

C-406A.

(5) Tighten cap bolts and adjusters sufficiently to prevent any side play in bearings.

KP7A

Fig. 19-Checking Drive Gear Mounting

Flange Runout

\

Fig. 20-Measuring Differential Gear Clearance

(6) Attach a dial indicator Tool C-430 or Tool

C-

3339

to carrier flange so pointer of indicator squarely contacts drive gear surface of differential case flange between outer edge flange and drive gear bolt holes

(Fig.

19).

(7) Rotate differential case several complete revolutions while noting total indicator reading. This reading must not exceed

.003

inch runout. If runout is in excess of

.003

inch, differential case must be replaced.

In a case where the runout does not exceed

.003

inch it is often possible to reduce the runout by positioning the drive gear 180° from point of maximum runout when reassembling drive gear on differential case.

(8)

Using two feeler gauges of equal thickness, insert between the differential case and side gear (Fig.

20).

If clearance exceeds

.012

inch, install new thrust washers.

(9)

With a flat nose drift and hammer, remove differential pinion shaft lock pin from back side of drive gear flange. (The hole is reamed only part way through, making it necessary to remove lock pin from one direction.)

(10)

With a brass drift and hammer, remove differential pinion shaft and axle drive shaft thrust block.

(11)

Rotate differential side gears until each differential pinion appears at large opening of case.

Remove each pinion and thrust washer at that time.

(12)

Remove both differential side gears and thrust washers.

Cleaning and

(1)

inspection

(Figs.

2

22)

Clean all parts in a fast evaporating mineral spirits or a dry cleaning solvent and with the exception of bearings, dry with compressed air.

(2)

Inspect differential bearing cones, cups and rollers for pitting, spalling or other visible damage. If

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THRU!

\AI

C U

RENTIAL CASE

EARING CONE

REAR AXLE 3-9

THRUST WASHER

BEARING CON

THRUST

BLOCK

THRUST WASHER

OLT AND LOCKWASHER

Fig.

1 -Differential Carrier Assembly (Small Pinion Disassembled)

replacement is necessary, remove bearing cones from differential case with Tool

(2-293

and adapter plates

No.

18 (Fig.

23).

(3)

Inspect differential case for elongated or enlarged pinion shaft hole. The machined thrust washer surface areas and counterbores must be smooth and without metal deposits or surface imperfections. If any of the above conditions exist, satisfactory correction must be made or the case replaced. Inspect case for cracks or other visible damage which might render it unfit for further service.

(4)

Inspect differential pinion shaft for excessive wear in contact area of differential pinions. Shaft should be smooth and round with no scoring or metal pickup.

KP2B

(5)

Inspect differential side gears and pinions, they should have smooth teeth with a uniform contact pattern without excessive wear or broken surfaces. The differential side gear and pinion thrust washers should be smooth and free from any scoring or metal pickup.

(6)

Inspect axle shaft thrust block for excessive wear or visible damage. The wear surface on the opposite ends of the block, must be smooth.

(7)

Inspect differential pinion shaft lock pin for damage or looseness in case. Replace pin or case as necessary.

(8)

Inspect drive gear and pinion for worn or chipped teeth or damaged attaching bolt threads. If replacement is necessary, replace both the drive gear

SHAFT

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER

BEARING CONE

THRUST BLOCK

RUST WASHER

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER

THRUST WASHER

Fig. 22-Differential Carrier Assembly (Large Pinion Disassembled)

KP1 B

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3-10

REAR AXLE

Fig. 23-Removing Differential Bearings

and drive pinion as they are available in matched sets only.

(9)

Inspect drive pinion bearing cones, cups and rollers for pitting, spalling, excessive wear, or other visible damage. If inspection reveals that either are unfit for further service, replace both cup and cone.

(10)

Inspect differential carrier for cracks or other visible damage which would render it unfit for further service. Raised metal on the shoulder of bearing cup bores incurred in removing pinion cups should be flattened by use of a flat nose punch.

(11)

Inspect drive pinion for damaged bearings journals and mounting shim surface on excessively worn splines. If replacement is necessary, replace both the drive pinion and drive gear as they are available in matched sets only.

(12)

Inspect companion flange for cracks, worn splines, pitted, rough or corroded oil seal contacting surface. Repair necessary. or replace companion flange as

(13) Inspect drive pinion bearing shim pack for broken, damaged or distorted shims. Replace if necessary during establishment of pinion bearing preload.

Assembly

LUBRICATE ALL PARTS BEFORE ASSEMBLY.

(1)

Install thrust washers on differential side gears and position gears in case.

(2)

Place thrust washers on both differential pinions and through large window of differential case, mesh the pinion gears with the side gears, having pinions exactly

180

degrees opposite each other.

(3) Rotate side gears 90 degrees to align pinions and thrust washers with differential pinion shaft holes in case.

(4)

From pinion shaft lock pin hole side of case, insert slotted end of pinion shaft through case, and the conical thrust washer, and just through one of the pinion gears.

(5) Install thrust block through side gear hub, that slot is centered between the side gears. so

(6)

While keeping all of these parts in proper alignment, push pinion shaft into case until locking pin hole in pinion shaft is in exact alignment with its respective hole in case. Install pinion shaft lock pin through hole in case from pinion shaft side of drive gear flange.

The contacting surfaces of the drive gear and differential case flange must be clean and free of a

I burrs.

(7)

Position drive gear on differential case pilot, aligning threaded holes of drive gear with those in differential case flange.

(8)

Insert drive gear screws (LEFT HAND THREADS) through case flange and into drive gear. After all cap screws are properly started, tap drive gear against differential case flange with a nonmetallic mallet.

(9) Position unit between brass jaws of a vise and alternately tighten each cap screw to 55 foot-pounds.

(10)

Position each differential bearing cone on hub of differential case (taper away from drive gear) and with installing Tool DD-1005, install bearing cones.

An arbor press may be used in conjunction with installing tool.

CROSSBORE TUBE

COMPRESSION

NUT SP-533

PINION LOCATING SPACER SP 2919 SP 1730 SP 539 NK6R

Fig. 24-Rear Axle Setting Gauge

Tool

C-758-D4

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REAR AXLE

3-11

KP13A

Fig. 25-Seating the Bearing Cups in Carrier Housing

CAUTION: Never exert pressure against the bearing cage, since this would damage the bearing.

PINION BEARING CUP INSTALLATION

Do not remove tool after installing cups.

(1) Position pinion bearing cups squarely in bores of carrier. Assemble Tool C-758-D4 (Fig. 24) by placing spacer SP2919 followed by rear pinion bearing cone over main screw of tool and inserting it into carrier from gear side.

(2) Place front pinion bearing cone over main screw of tool followed by compression sleeve SP535,

,centralizing washer SP534, and main screw nut

SP533. Hold compression sleeve with the companion flange holding Tool C-3281 and tighten nut (Fig. 25) allowing tool to rotate as nut is being tightened in order not to brinnel bearing cone or cups.

PINION BEARING PRELOAD AND DEPTH OF

MESH SETTING USING TOOL C-758-D4

The 8%" axle incorporates two types of drive pinions. The method of determining pinion depth

mesh and bearing preload are the same for both pinions; however, the sequence of making the two adjustments change. Pinions without a bearing spacer

(large pinion) require the depth of mesh adjustment first, while pinions with a separate bearing spacer

(small pinion) require the bearing preload adjustment first.

The position of the drive pinion with respect to the drive gear (depth of mesh) is determined by the location of the bearing cup shoulders in the carrier and by the portion of the pinion in back of the rear bearing. The thickness of the rear pinion bearing mounting shim suitable for the carrier can be determined by using Tool C-758-D4.

PINION BEARING PRELOAD WITH BEARING

SPACER (SMALL STEM PINION)

Bearing Preload

(1)

With tool installed in carrier, remove main screw nut, centralizing washer, compression sleeve and front pinion bearing cone.

(2) Install the pinion bearing spacer, larger bore of spacer next to rear bearing.

(3)

Position sleeve (SP1730) in front bearing cone making sure sleeve is flush with rear of bearing.

(4) Position original shims, previously removed from drive pinion stem, over the sleeve and slide the sleeve, bearing and shims over main screw of tool until shims rest against spacer (Fig. 26).

(5) Install tool compression sleeve (SP535) (square end out), centralizing washer (SP534) and main screw nut (SP533). Turn carrier in stand to bring nut on top.

(6) Tighten tool nut to 240 foot-pounds with a torque wrench, using holding Tool C-3281 on the compression sleeve to hold the assembly in several positions to make a complete revolution while tightening. Remove holding tool and rotate the pinion several revolutions in both directions to align the bearing rollers. Recheck torque to

240 foot-pounds (torque may have diminished as bearing rollers were aligned by rotating).

Correct bearing preload reading can only be obtained with nose of carrier up.

(7) Using inch-pound torque wrench C-685, measure pinion bearing preload by rotating pinion with handle of wrench floating, read the torque while wrench is moving through several complete revolutions. Correct preload setting is 20-30 inch-pounds for a new bearing and 0-15 inch-pounds for original bearing. Bearing preload should be uniform during complete revolution. A reading that varies considerably during rotation of pinion indicates a binding condition which requires correction.

Use a thinner shim pack to increase preload and a thicker shim pack to decrease preload.

Preload shims are available in two thousandths of an inch increments from .014-.026 inch.

After correct pinion bearing preload is set,

NOT REMOVE THE TOOL.

Depth

Mesh

(1) Reverse carrier in stand and install gauge block

li/

/ 11

PINION LOCATING WASHER OR SHIM

ASSEMBLY OF SP-526

Fig. 26-Pinion Preload with Spacer

(8%"

Ring Gear)

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3-12 REAR AXLE

GAUGE BLOCK

Fig. 27-Installing Gauge Block

Tool

SP528 on end of tool and securing it to tool with Allen screw. The flat portion of gauge block should be facing differential bearing pedestals (Fig. 27). Tighten screw with Allen wrench.

(2) Position arbor SP561 (part of Tool C-758-D4) in differential bearing pedestals of carrier (Fig. 28). Cen- ter the arbor so that an approximate equal distance is maintained at both ends. Position differential bearing caps and attaching bolts on carrier pedestals, and insert a piece of .002 inch shim stock between arbor and each cap. Tighten cap bolts to 10 foot-pounds.

(3) Select a rear pinion bearing mounting shim which will fit between cross arbor and gauge block.

This fit must be snug but not too tight (similar to the pull of a feeler gauge) (Fig. 29). This shim is then used in determining the correct thickness shim for installation.

(4) To select a shim for installation, read the marking on end of pinion head (-0, -1, -2, +1, + 2 etc.). When marking is -

(minus), add that amount to the thickness of shim selected in step (3). When the marking is

(plus), subtract that amount. Example: with a shim .086 inch thick and a pinion marked -2,

Fig. 28-Installing Arbor in Carrier

115

Fig. 29-Determining Spacer Thickness

install a shim .088 inch thick. (.086

.002 = .088).

Example: with a shim .086 inch thick and a pinion marked +2, install a washer .084 inch thick, (.086

.002

.084) or when a shim .086 inch thick is too loose and a .088 inch too tight, use .086 inch shim.

Treat other pinion markings in a similar manner.

Shims are available in two thousandths of an inch increments. Mounting shims differ in diameter, depending on which pinion they are used on.

(5) Remove tool arbor from carrier.

(6) Remove tool and bearings out of carrier.

(7) Remove shims, spacer, tool sleeve and rear bearing cone from tool main screw.

(8)

With stem of pinion facing up, install correct shim on pinion stem.

Shims are chamfered on one side and must be installed on the pinion stem with chamfered side toward pinion head.

(9) Position rear bearing cone on pinion stem

(small side away from pinion head). Make certain that the contacting surfaces of correct shim, pinion head shim contact surface and rear bearing cone are per- fectly clean and free of any foreign particles.

(10) Using installing Tool DD-996 press bearing on pinion stem. An arbor press may be used in conjunction with tool.

(11)

Install bearing tubular spacer on pinion stem

(large bore facing rear bearing cone).

(12) Install selected shim pack.

(13) Lubricate front and rear pinion bearing cones with Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant.

(14) Position front pinion bearing cone in its cup in carrier.

(15) Install drive pinion oil seal into carrier using

Tool 3980. Lip of seal must face front bearing. Tool

3980

MUST BE USED

in order to position the seal the proper depth into the carrier.

(16) Insert drive pinion and bearing assembly up through carrier. While supporting pinion in carrier,

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REAR AXLE 3-13

---

NY168A

Fig.

30--Tool

C-758-D4 Installed in Housing

(8%"

Large Pinion)

install companion flange with installing Tool

C-496

DD-999

and holding Tool

C-3281.

(17)

Remove tools and install Belleville washer

(convex side of washer up) and pinion nut.

(18)

Hold companion flange with holding Tool C-

3281

and tighten pinion nut to

240

foot-pounds. Ro- tate pinion several revolutions in both directions to align bearing rollers. Recheck torque to

240

foot- pounds (torque may have diminished as bearing rollers were aligned by rotating).

P I N I O N BEARING PRELOAD WITHOUT

BEARING SPACER

(Large Stem

Pinion)

Inspect bearing cups and carrier for grit and dirt or other foreign material. Clean all parts in a fast evaporating mineral spirits or a dry cleaning solvent and with the exception of bearing cones, dry with compressed air.

(1)

Assemble spacer

SP2921

to main section of tool followed by spacer

SP1730.

Install rear pinion bearing cone over spacer

SP1730

and against spacer

SP2921

(Fig.

30).

(2)

Insert assembly into carrier and install front pinion bearing cone over tool shaft and in its proper position in bearing cup. Install tool spacer, tool thrust washer and tool nut on shaft.

(3)

With nose of carrier up, place flange holding

Tool

C-3281

on compression sleeve. Allow assembly to rotate while tightening nut to not more than

25-50

foot-pounds.

Always make sure bearing cones are Iu- bricated with hypoid gear lubricant.

(4)

Turn tool several complete revolutions in both directions to permit bearing roller to seat. After bearing rollers are properly seated, check bearing preload by rotating tool with an inch-pound torque wrench.

The correct bearing preload should be from

20-30

inch-pounds for new bearings and

0-15

inch-pounds for the original bearings.

(5)

With proper bearing preload set, invert carrier in stand and install gauge block

SP528

SP3250

to the main screw attaching it with Allen screw securely

(Fig.

27).

The flat portion of gauge block should be facing differential bearing pedestals.

(6)

Position tool arbor

SP561

in differential bearing pedestals of carrier (Fig.

28).

Center the arbor so that an approximate equal distance is maintained at both ends. Position differential bearing caps and attaching bolts on carrier pedestals, and insert a piece of

.002

inch shim stock between arbor and each cap. Tighten cap bolts to 10 foot-pounds.

(7)

Select a rear pinion bearing mounting shim which will fit between cross arbor and gauge block.

This fit must be snug but not too tight (similar to the pull of a feeler gauge (Fig.

29).

This shim is then used in determining the correct thickness shim for installation.

( 8 )

To select a shim for installation, read the marking on end of pinion head (-0,

-1, -2, +1, 4-2,

etc.). When marking is

-,

(minus) add that amount to the thickness of shim selected in step

(7).

When the marking is

(plus) subtract that amount. Example:

With a shim

.086

inch thick and a pinion marked

-2,

install a shim

.088

inch thick

(.086

.002

.088).

Example: With a shim

.086

inch thick and a pinion marked

+2 ,

install a washer

.084

inch thick,

(.086

.002

.084)

or when a shim

.086

inch thick is too loose and

.088

inch too thick, use

.086

inch shim.

Treat other pinion markings in a similar manner.

Shim are available in two thousandths of an inch increments. Mounting shim differ in diameter, depending on which pinion they are used on.

(9)

Remove differential bearing caps and remove tool arbor from carrier.

(10)

Reverse carrier in stand so nut of tool is in upright position. Loosen compression nut, and support lower portion of tool in carrier with one hand, remove tool nut, centering washer and compression sleeve.

Lower tool down and out of carrier.

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3-14 REAR AXLE

(11)

Remove front pinion bearing cone from carrier.

(12)

Add rear pinion bearing shim you selected on tool between spacer

SP2921

and rear pinion bearing cone. Install spacer

SP1730

and insert tool in carrier.

(13)

Install original preload shim pack and front pinion bearing cone and position in carrier bearing cup. Install tool compression sleeve

SP535

and tool nut washer and tool nut on shaft.

(14)

Using holding Tool

C-3281

on compression sleeve and tighten tool nut to

240

foot-pounds. Hold the assembly in several positions to make a complete revolution while tightening.

(15)

Remove holding tool and rotate tool several revolutions in both directions to permit bearing rollers to seat. Recheck torque to

240

foot-pounds

(torque may have diminished as bearing roller seated).

(16)

Measure pinion bearing preload by rotating tool using an inch-pound torque wrench. The correct preload specifications are

20-30

inch-pounds for new bearings and

0-15

for original bearings. Correct bearing preload readings can only be obtained with nose of carrier in up right position. Bearing preload should be uniform during complete revolution. A reading that varies during rotation indicates a binding condition which should be corrected.

Use a thinner shim pack to increase preload and a thicker shim pack to decrease preload.

Preload shim are available in two thousandths of an inch increments from

,014-.026

inch.

(17)

Remove tool with shim pack, bearing cone, pinion mounting shim, and spacer from carrier and tool.

(18)

With stem of pinion facing up, install correct shim on pinion stem.

Shims are chamfered on one side and must be installed on the pinion stem with chamfered side toward pinion head.

(19)

Position rear bearing cone on pinion stem

(20)

Lubricate front and rear pinion bearing cones with hypoid gear lubricant. Install rear bearing cone onto pinion stem, and using Tool

DD-996,

press bearing cone into place. An arbor press may be used in conjunction with tool.

(21)

Insert pinion and bearing assembly up through carrier and install the selected front pinion bearing preload shim pack followed by the bearing cone.

(22)

Apply a light coat of sealer in seal bore of carrier and install drive pinion oil seal into carrier using Tool

3980.

Lip of seal must face front bearing.

Tool

3980

MUST BE USED

in order to position the seal the proper depth into carrier.

(23)

While supporting pinion in carrier, install companion flange with installing Tool

C-496

DD-

999

and holding Tool

(2-3281.

(24)

Remove tools and install Belleville washer

(convex side of washer up) and pinion nut.

(25)

Hold universal joint flange with holding Tool

(3-3281

and tighten pinion nut to

240

foot-pounds. Ro- tate pinion several revolutions in both directions to align bearing rollers. Recheck torque to

240

foot- pounds (torque may have diminished as bearing rollers were aligned by rotating).

PINION BEARING PRELOAD AND PINION

SETTING (WITHOUT USING TOOL C-758-D4)

If the differential assembly was satisfactorily quiet before being disassembled, the drive pinion may be assembled with the original mounting shim and preload shim pack. If replacement parts are installed, a complete readjustment is necessary; the proper thickness shim must be installed between the pinion and rear bearing. The drive gear and pinion are manufactured and lapped in matching sets and are available in matched sets only. The adjustment position in which the best tooth contact is obtained is marked on the end of the pinion head.

To obtain the proper pinion setting in relation to the drive gear, the correct thickness mounting shim must be selected before the drive pinion is installed in the carrier. The pinion bearing mounting shims are available in two thousandths increments from

.084

.lo 0

inch. To select the proper thickness shim, proceed as follows: It will be noted that the head of the drive pinion is marked with a plus

(+) or minus

(-) sign followed by a number ranging from

or

zero

(0)

marking.

Depth

Mesh

If the old and new pinion have the same marking and if the original bearing is being reused, use a mounting shim of the same thickness. But if the old pinion is marked zero (0) and the new pinion is marked

+2,

try a

.002

inch thinner shim. If the new pinion is marked

-2,

try a

.002

inch thicker shim.

Pinion Bearing Preload

If the bearings are being replaced, place the new bearing cup in position in the carrier and drive the cups in place with a suitable drift. After properly positioning the bearing cups in the carrier, assemble the drive pinion mounting shim (chamfered side down toward gear) on the drive pinion stem. Install the tubular spacer

(if so equipped) and the preload shims on the pinion stem. Insert the pinion assembly into the carrier. Install the front pinion bearing cone, universal joint flange, Belleville washer (convex side of washer up) and nut.

NOT INSTALL THE OIL

SEAL. Rotate the drive pinion after tightening the flange nut to

240

foot-pounds, to properly seat the

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REAR AXLE 3-15

Fig. 3

-Adjusting Differential Bearings

bearing rollers in the bearing cups. The preload torque required to rotate the pinion with the bearings oiled should be

20-30

inch-pounds for new bearings and 0 to 15 inch-pounds for used bearings.

Use a thinner shim pack to increase preload and a thicker shim pack to decrease preload.

After the correct pinion depth of mesh has been established and correct bearing preload obtained, remove the drive pinion flange. Install the oil seal with Tool

3980.

Install the pinion flange, washer and nut and tighten the nut to

240 foot-pounds.

Installation of Differential and Ring Gear in Carrier.

(1)

Holding differential and ring gear assembly with bearing cups on respective bearing cones, carefully install the assembly into carrier.

(2)

Install differential bearing caps, on respective sides, making certain that identification marks on caps correspond with those on carrier. Install cap bolts and tighten bolts of each cap by hand.

(3)

Install differential bearing adjusters, on respective sides, making certain that identification marks correspond. Screw adjuster in by hand. No attempt should be made to apply any excessive pressure at this time.

(4)

Using spanner wrenches Tool C-406A to square bearing cups with bearing cone, turn adjusters

“IN”

until cups are properly squared with bearings and end play is eliminated with some backlash existing between the drive gear and pinion (Fig.

31).

(5)

Tighten one differential bearing cap bolt on each side to

85-90

foot-pounds.

Drive Gear and Pinion Backlash

Correct drive gear and pinion backlash when properly set is

.006

.008

inch at point

minimum backlash.

(1)

Attach a dial indicator Tool C-340 or

C-3339

to carrier flange so pointer of indicator is squarely contacting one drive gear tooth (drive side) (Fig.

32).

(2)

Measure backlash between drive gear and pinion at four positions, approximately

degrees apart.

After point of least backlash has been determined, mark drive gear.

Do not rotate drive gear from point of least backlash until all adjustments have been completed.

(3)

Using Tool C-406A (spanner wrench) turn both bearing adjusters equally (in same direction) until backlash between drive gear and pinion is

.0005

.0015

inch.

This backlash variation i s given to permit alignment and installation of the bearing adjuster lock, lockwasher and attaching screw. The adjuster must only be turned in a clockwise direction and under no circumstances should be backed off.

(4)

Install adjuster lock on bearing cap, back-face side of drive gear. Tighten lock screw to

foot-pounds.

Differential Bearing Preload

(1)

Turn bearing adjuster (tooth side of drive gear)

(Fig.

32)

in a notch at a time (notch referred to is the adjuster lock holes) until backlash between drive gear and pinion is a minimum of .006 to

.008

inch. This will preload differential bearings and establish correct backlash.

(2)

Tighten the remaining two differential bearing cap bolts to

85-90

foot-pounds.

(3)

Install remaining adjuster lock, lockwasher and attaching screw. Tighten to

15-20

foot-pounds.

GEAR TOOTH CONTACT PATTERN

The gear tooth contact pattern (Fig.

33)

will disclose whether the correct rear pinion bearing mounting shim has been installed and the drive gear backlash

KP21

Fig. 32-Measuring Backlash Between Drive Gear and Pinion

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3-16 REAR AXLE

CORRECT

ADJUSTMENT

PINION

SPACER

TOO THICK

PINION SPACER

TOO THIN

GEAR

TOO

CLOSE

TO PINION

GEAR TOO FAR

FROM PINION

face, narrow and near the top, the teeth will wear

DRIVE COAST

Center

TOO neet

To..

LOU

wi,

nigh

Sllphtly H1ph.r

b n t e r

Toe

To..

Hlgh

H..l. Lou

- thin and roll over or score, resulting in excessive gear lash and noise. This condition is corrected by installing a thicker shim behind the rear pinion bearing.

Heavy Flank Contact

If the tooth pattern is across the length of the tooth and is narrow and low on the flank, the pinion teeth will score and also result in noise. This condition is corrected by installing a thinner shim behind the rear pinion bearing.

Heavy Toe Contact

Sllphtly Lower

If the tooth pattern is heavy on the toe of the tooth, the edges of the teeth may chip resulting in excessive damage of the entire assembly. This condition is corrected by moving the drive gear away from the pinion. This will increase the backlash making it again necessary to insert a thinner shim behind the rear pinion bearing.

1. PINION SPACER CHANGES AFFECT THE COAST SIDE CONTACT

FASTER THAN THE DRIVE SIDE

2. BACKLASH ADJUSTMENTS AFFECT THE DRIVE SIDE CONTACT

MUCH FASTER THAN THE COAST SIDE

ALL BACKLASH MEASUREMENTS SHOULD BE MADE AT THE

POINT OF MINIMUM BACKLASH

NY 1022A

Heavy Heel Contact

If the tooth pattern is heavy on the heel of the teeth, the edges of the teeth may chip resulting in excessive damage to the entire assembly. This condition is corrected by moving the drive gear toward the pinion. This would result in decreasing the backlash making it again necessary to insert a thinner shim behind the rear pinion bearing.

Fig. 33-Gear Tooth

Contact

Pattern

set properly. (Refer to (Fig. 33) for various gear tooth contact patterns.)

Obtaining Tooth Contact Pattern

Apply a thin film of red lead on drive and coast side of drive gear teeth. Using a round bar apply a load against the back of the drive gear. As this load is being applied to the drive gear, rotate the pinion several revolutions in both directions. This action will leave a distinct contact pattern on both the drive and coast side of the drive gear teeth. Compare the patterns on the drive gear teeth with those in (Fig. 33) to determine if all adjustments have been properly made.

Correct Adjustment-Proper Tooth Contact

With all the adjustments properly made, correct tooth contact (Fig. 33) will result. Notice that the correct contact pattern is well centered on both drive and coast sides of the teeth. When tooth contact patterns are obtained by hand, they are apt to be rather small. Under the actual operating load, however, the contact area increases.

If improper tooth contact is evident, the pinion must be readjusted by either increasing or decreasing the thickness of the rear pinion bearing mounting shim. Backlash between the drive gear and pinion must be maintained within the specified limits until correct tooth contact pattern is obtained.

Heavy Face Contact

If the tooth pattern is across the length of the tooth

DIFFERENTIAL A N D CARRIER

installation

(1)

Thoroughly clean the gasket surfaces of the carrier and rear axle housing.

(2) Using a new gasket, install the carrier assembly into the axle housing. Tighten the carrier to axle housing nuts to

foot-pounds.

(3) Refer to “Installation of Rear Axle Shaft,” when installing and setting axle shaft end play.

(4)

Install rear universal joint of propeller shaft and tighten clamp screws to 15 foot-pounds.

(5) Remove wooden block from under brake pedal and bleed and adjust brakes.

(6)

Install rear wheels and tighten to

foot- pounds.

L U BRlCATlO N

Refill axle housing and carrier assembly with multi-purpose gear lubricant as defined by

MILL

2105B on all rear axles except those with a Sure-Grip differential; such a lubricant is available under Part

Number 2585317, Hypoid Gear Lubricant.

In Sure-Grip differentials, use only the special multi-purpose gear lubricant intended for use in limited-slip differentials. Such a lubricant is available under Part Number 2585318, Special Sure-Grip

Lubricant.

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REAR AXLE 3-17

Anticipated Temperature

Above -10°F.

A s low a s -30°F.

Below -30°F.

Viscosity Grade

SA€

MERGED I N WATER, THE LUBRICANT MUST BE

CHANGED IMMEDIATELY TO AVOID THE

BlLlTY

POSSI-

EARLY AXLE FAILURE RESULTING

FROM CONTAMINATION OF THE LUBRICANT BY

”SHOULD THE REAR AXLE BECOME SUB- WATER DRAWN INTO THE VENT HOLE.’‘

SURE GRIP DIFFERENTIAL

INDEX

Assembling the Differential

Installing Sure Grip Differential and

Page

....................

Carrier Assembly

............................

Lubrication

...................................

Sure

Grip Differential

..........................

Sure Grip Differential Identification

Page

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

G EN ERAL I N FO RMATIO N

The sure-grip differential (Figs.

and

is similar to the conventional differential except for the addition of friction plates and Belleville plates and discs for clutching the differential case to the differential gears and a means for engaging these plates.

The Belleville plates and discs accomplish a positive engagement of the clutch discs and plates at all times by placing a preload on the plates and discs. It has four pinion gears, positioned in the case by two pinion shafts which are at right angles to each other and loose fitting at their inter-section. Both ends of each shaft have two flat surfaces, or ramps, which mate with identical ramps in the differential case. There is additional clearance in the case to permit a slight peripheral movement of the ends of the pinion shafts within the case.

SUR E-GRI P DIFFER ENTl AL

IDENTIFICATION

Identification of sure-grip type differential assembly can be made by lifting the rear wheels off the ground and turning them. If they both turn in the same direction, the vehicle is equipped with a Sure

Grip Differential. Another means of identification is a metal tag reading, “Use Sure-Grip Lube” attached by means of the rear axle housing-to-carrier bolt, below the carrier filler plug. If the tag is not apparent, remove the filler plug and use a flashlight to look up through the filler plug hole to identify the type of differential case. The sure-grip type differential case

(two-piece construction) has attaching bolts. The conventional type differential case (one-piece construction) has a dome-like shape with no case cap attaching bolts.

Whenever the rear axle shafts have been removed from the “Sure Grip” axle assembly, always determine that the thrust spacers have not fallen out of the pinion shaft (Fig.

12).

The spacers may be observed through the axle shaft opening of the axle housing.

This may be done with the aid of a small flashlight. If the spacers are out of place, it will be necessary to disassemble the “Sure-Grip” differential to reinstall them.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

SUR E-G RI P DIFFERENTIAL

Removal

Follow the same procedure outlined under removal and installation of the conventional rear axle differential.

Disassembly

(1)

Remove axle drive gear. Measure runout of the drive gear mounting flange. Replace both case halves if runout exceeds

.003

inch.

(2) Before disassembling case halves, place scribe marks on each half to aid in aligning the case when reassembling (Fig. 5). Remove case cap attaching bolts and remove case cap (Fig.

6 ) .

Remove clutch plates

(Fig.

7).

(3)

Remove side gear retainer (Fig.

8), and side gear (Fig. 9).

(4)

Remove pinion shafts with pinion gears (Fig.

10).

(5) Remove remaining side gear (Fig. ll), retainer (Fig.

13)

and clutch plates (Fig.

14).

(6)

Remove axle shaft thrust spacer by pressing out lock pin (Fig. 12).

Cleaning and Inspection

Clean all parts thoroughly and inspect parts for wear, nicks and burrs. The inner and outer flat clutch plates and outer flat clutch disc should be replaced if they are worn or distorted. If either case half is worn, it will be necessary to replace both halves.

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3-18 REAR AXLE

DRIVE PINION

CLUTCH PLATES

AXLESHAFT

DIFFERENTIAL CASE

Fig. ] - S u r e Grip Differential (Cross Section V i e w )

ASSEMBLING THE DIFFERENTIAL

(1)

Position clutch plates and discs in their proper location in each half of the case, (Fig.

15).

(2)

Place side gears in their retainers. Insert splines of retainers through the splines of clutch discs.

(3)

Place aligning pin through one axle shaft thrust spacer. Assemble pinion shafts on aligning pin.

(4)

Place pinion gears on shafts and install assembly in drive gear half of case. Insert the thrust spacer in pinion shaft (Fig.

12).

( 5 )

Slide cap half of case over the edge of bench far

FFERENTIAL PINION

FFERENTIAL CASE

CLUTCH PLATES

Fig. 2-Sure Grip Differential (Schematic)

Fig. 3-Power Flow Axle Shafts Turning at Same Speed

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REAR AXLE 3-19

AXLE DRIVE PINION

CASE CAP-

i A F T

DIFFERENTIAL PINION

KR 262

Fig. 4-Power F l o w A x l e Shafts Turning

D i f f e r e n t Speeds enough to insert one finger

up

through the assembly to hold it together. Place the assembly on drive gear half, matching scribe marks.

(6)

Make sure markings on each differential case half coincide. Install the differential case bolts and turn in a few threads.

IMPORTANT: Insert t h e axle shafts f r o m t h e vehicle t o align t h e splines. M a k e sure t h e axle shafts engage t h e side gear splines.

Fig. 6-Removing or l n s t a l l i n g D i f f e r e n t i a l Case C a p

BELLEVILLE

PLATE

CLUTCH

E=-

PLATES

SIDE GEAR

RETAINER

- -

KR720 A

Fig. 7-Removing or I n s t a l l i n g Clutch Plates

(Cap Side)

SIDE

RETA

GEAR

Fig. 5-Case Halves Scribed for Proper Reassembly

- _ _ l -

Fig. 8-Removing or

I n s t a l l i n g Side G e a r Retainer

(Cap Side)

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3-20 REAR AXLE

4 iAFT

SPACER

PINION

SHA

722

Fig. 9-Removing Side G e a r (Cap Side)

Fig. 10-Removing or Installing P i n i o n Shafts and Gears

727

Fig. 12-Removing or I n s t a l l i n g A x l e Shaft

Thrust Spacers tween the two ramp surfaces in differential case.

Tighten differential case bolts evenly by alternately turning opposite bolts until all are tightened to

foot-pounds. To keep splines

side gear and clutch plates in exact alignment during the tightening procedure, move axle shafts back and forth as bolts are being tightened. After assembly, slight misalignments

the splines can be corrected by moving axle shafts back and forth until free.

Remove axle shafts.

Since t h e sure-grip clutches are preloaded by t h e dished plates and discs, clearance should not exist between t h e pinion shafts and ramps.

(9)

Follow procedures outlined in conventional axle assembly for pinion setting, drive gear backlash adjustment and bearing pre-load adjustment.

Fig.

-Removing or I n s t a l l i n g Side Gear

F r o m D i f f e r e n t i a l Case

Fig. 13-Removing or

I n s t a l l i n g Side G e a r Retainer from D i f f e r e n t i a l Case

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REAR AXLE 3-21

SIDE GEAR RING

Fig. IS-Arrangement of Plates and Discs

Fig. 14-Removing

fnstalling Clutch Plates from Differential Case

(8%”

Differential)

CAUTION: Both rear wheels must be raised off the

I N STA LLI N G S U R E-G

R I

P D

FF E R E NTI AL

floor when adjusting brakes.

A N D CARRIER ASSEMBLY

L U BR lCATl0 N

(1) Using a new gasket, install carrier assembly in axle housing. Tighten mounting nuts to 45 foot-

In Sure-Grip Differentials, use only the special pounds. multi-purpose gear lubricant intended for use in limited-slip differentials. Such a lubricant i s available

(2) Refer to “Installation

Rear Axle Shaft,” under Part Number 2585318, Special Sure-Grip when installing axle shafts.

(3) Connect the rear universal joint.

(4)

Before lowering the rear wheels of the vehicle to the floor, adjust rear brakes.

Lubricant.

Anticipated Temperature Range

Above -10°F.

low as -30°F.

Below -30°F.

Viscosity Range

SA€ 90

SA€ 80

SAE 75

SPEC I FI CAT1

N S

REAR AXLE

Type

...................................................................

Gear Type

..............................................................

Ring Gear Diameter

Pinion Bearing

......................................................

.........................................................

.......................................................

POLARA-MONACO

Semi-Floating

Hypoid

8.75 inch

Drive Pinion Bearing Pre-Load

Adjustment

Differential Bearings

............................................

.............................................................

....................................................

..........................................

Tapered Roller (2)

20-30 in. Ibs. without oil seal

Shim Pack

Tapered Roller (2)

Differential Bearing Adjustment

Drive Gear and Pinion

Threaded Adjuster

...................................................

Serviced in Matched Sets Only

Drive Gear Runout

Drive Gear and Pinion Adjustment

Drive Gear and Pinion Backlash

Differential Side Gear Clearance

.........................................

..........................................

.........................................

.......................................

...........................................

.005 inch (Maximum)

Select Washer

.OM

.001 to .012 inch

Wheel Bearing Axle Shaft end Play

Differentia

Lubricant Capacity

Type

.013 to .023 inch

4 pints

.........................

Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant as defined by MIL-L-2105B is used on all rear axles except Sure-Grip Differential; such a lubricant is available under Part

No. 2585317, Hypoid Gear Lubricant.

Sure-Grip Differentials use only the special Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant intended for use in limited slip differentials. Such a lubricant is available under

Part

No.

Anticipated Temperature Range

Above -10°F.

As low as -30°F.

Below -30°F.

Viscosity

SAE

Grade

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3-22

REAR AXLE

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

FOOT INCH

POUNDS

POLARA, MONACO MODELS

Brake Support Plate to Housing Mounting

Bolt Nuts

...........................

Differential Carrier to Axle Housing

Bolt Nuts

...........................

Differential Bearing Cap Bolts

..........

FOOT INCH

POUNDS

Rear Axle Drive Gear to Case Bolts

Rear Axle Drive Pinion Companion

Flange Nut

.........................

240

(Min.)

Rear Spring

“U”

Bolt Nuts

Propeller Shaft Bolts-Rear

Wheel Stud Nuts

.....

.............

............

.....................

AXLE RATIOS

POLARA-MONACO

APPLICATION

Manual Transmission

Optional

Automatic Transmission

Optional

Trailer Towing

Sure-Grip

*318

Cu.

Engine

In.

383

Cu. In.

383

Cu. In.

*426

Cu. In.

**426

Cu. In.

383-426

Engine Engine Engine Engine Cubic Inch

(2 BBL)

BBL)

BBL) Police

3.23

3.55

2.94

3.23

2.76

3.23

2.76

3.23

2.76

3.23

2.76

3.23 3.23 3.23 3.23

2.76 3.23 2.76 3.23 2.76 3.23 2.76 3.23

*Except Station Wagon

**Station Wagon

Axle ratio not limited on vehicles equipped with air conditioning.

3.23

2.94

3.23

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G R O U P

DISC BRAKES (BUDD)

Page Page

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2 4 POWER BRAKES (MIDLAND-ROSS).

. . . . . .

14 GENERAL INFORMATION

MASTER CYLINDER

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1 SERVICE BRAKES (10-11 I N C H ) .

. . . . . . . . .

5

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8 SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

PARKING BRAKES (10-11 I N C H BRAKES).

POWER BRAKES (KELSEY-HAYES).

12 SPECIFICATIONS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . .

19 WHEEL CYLINDERS

34

....................

10 GENERAL INFORMATION

The

1966

Models have a self-adjusting servo contact, two shoe, internal expanding brake. The lower ends of the brake shoes are connected by a tubula. star wheel adjusting screw, (Fig. 1). Police cars with heavy duty brakes are not self-adjusting.

ADJUSTING T H E SERVICE BRAKES

SERVICE PROCEDURES

Normally self adjusting brakes will not require manual adjustment but in the event of a brake reline it may be advisable to make the initial adjustment manually to speed up the adjusting time.

(1)

Jack up the vehicle turn. so all wheels are free to

(2)

Remove the rear adjusting hole cover from the backing plate on all of the brake supports of the vehicle.

(3) Be sure the parking brake lever is fully released, then back off the parking brake cable adjustment so there is slack in the cable.

(4) Insert the adjusting tool C-3784, into the star wheel of the adjusting screw. Move the handle of the tool downward until a slight drag is felt when the road wheel is rotated.

(5) Insert a thin screw driver into the brake adjusting hole and push the adjusting lever out of engagement with the star wheel.

(Care should be taken so as not to bend the adjusting lever,)

(Fig. while holding the adjusting lever out of engagement, back off the star wheel

notches to insure a free wheel with no brake shoe drag.

(6)

Repeat the above adjustment at each wheel.

The adjustment must be equal at all wheels. Install the adjusting hole covers in the brake supports.

TESTING AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER OPERATION

Place the vehicle on a hoist, with a helper in the driver’s seat to apply the brakes. Remove the plug from the rear adjustment slot in each brake support plate to observe the adjuster star wheel. Then, to exclude the possibility of maximum adjustment; that is, the adjuster refuses to operate because the closest possible adjustment has been reached; the star wheel should be backed off approximately 30 notches. It will be necessary to hold the adjuster lever away from the star wheel to allow backing off of the adjustment.

Spin the wheel and brake drum in the reverse direction and apply the brakes vigorously. This will provide the necessary inertia to cause the secondary brake shoe to leave the anchor. The wrap up effect will move the secondary shoe, and-the cable will pull the adjuster lever up. Upon release of the brake pedal, the lever should snap downward, turning the star wheel. Thus, a definite rotation of the adjuster star wheel can be observed if the automatic adjuster is working properly. If by the described procedure one or more automatic adjusters do not function properly, the respective drum must be removed for adjuster servicing.

Fig. I-Adjusting

the Brakes

62X504A

BLEEDING T H E BRAKE SYSTEM

Clean all dirt and foreign material from the cover of the master cylinder to prevent any dirt from falling into the master cylinder reservoir when the cover is removed.

Using the one man bleeder tank C-3496 (with adaptor C-3494A) provides a convenient means

keeping the master cylinder full while pressurizing the hydraulic system for bleeding.

The brakes may also be bled manually by having an assistant slowly pump the brake pedal while the brakes are being

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5-2

BRAKES

bled. Be certain to refill the master cylinder after bleeding each wheel.

Tighten the brakes of each wheel until the brakes are locked. (This reduces the movement of the wheel cylinder cups and assists in bleeding.)

Starting with the right rear wheel clean all dirt from the bleeder valve. Place bleeder hose C-650 on the bleeder valve and insert the other end of the bleeder hose into a clean jar half filled with clean brake fluid. (This will permit the observation of air bubbles as they are being expelled from the hydraulic system and also prevent air from being drawn back in to the system as the brake pedal is released on manual bleeding.) Follow the manufacturers instructions in the use of the bleeder tools.

When manually bleeding the hydraulic system, push the brake pedal down and let it return slowly, to avoid air being drawn into the system. Bleed intermittently by opening and closing the valve about every four seconds. This causes a swirling action in the cylinder and assists in expelling the air. Continue the action until the brake fluid is expelled in a solid stream, without any bubbles.

Continue this bleeding operation on the other wheels, starting with the left rear wheel, then the right front and finishing with the left front wheel.

If necessary, repeat this bleeding operation if there is any indication (a low, soft or spongy brake pedal) of air remaining in the hydraulic system. Readjust the brakes as described previously.

TEST FOR FLUID CONTAMINATION

To determine if contamination exists in the brake fluid (as indicated by swollen or deteriorated rubber cups), the following test can be made.

Place a small amount of the drained brake fluid into a small clear glass bottle. Separation of the fluid into distinct layers will indicate mineral oil content.

Be safe and discard old brake fluid that has been bled from the system. Fluid drained from the bleeding o p eration may contain dirt particles or other contamination and should not be reused.

WHEEL STUD TIGHTENING

The tightening sequence and torquing of the wheel stud nuts is of great importance to insure efficient brake operation. The use of an impact or long handled wrench may distort the drum.

criss-cross tightening sequence should be used,

(Fig.

2).

Tighten all the stud nuts to one-half the specified torque first, (30 ft. lbs.), and then repeat the sequence tightening to the specified 55 foot-pounds.

(65 foot pounds on

10 and

11 inch brakes.)

BRAKE HOSE AND TUBING

The flexible hydraulic brake hose should always be installed in the vehicle by first tightening the male end of the hose in the wheel cylinder or rear axle housing tee.

The hose is then clipped to the hose

Fig. 2-Wheel Stud Nut

Tightening Sequence

bracket in a manner to give minimum twist. Excessive twist can result in hose interference problems with possible hydraulic system failure.

Inspection of brake hose and tubing should be included in all brake service operations. The hoses should be checked for:

(1)

Correct length, severe surface cracking, pulling, scuffing or worn spots. (Should the cotton fabric cas- ing of the hose be exposed to weather by cracks or abrasions in the rubber hose cover, eventual deterioration of the hose can take place with possible burst failure.)

(2)

Faulty installation to cause twisting, wheel, tire or chassis interference.

Always use factory recommended hose to insure quality, correct length and superior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure that the tube and hose mating surfaces are clean and free from nicks and burrs. New copper seal washers should be used and the tube nuts and connections should be properly made and tightened. Double wall steel tubing should always be used to insure superior fatigue life. Care should be taken when replacing brake tubing, to use the proper bending and flaring tools and to avoid routing the tubes against sharp edges, moving components or in hot areas. All tubes should be properly attached with recommended retaining clips.

Steel tubing is used to conduct hydraulic pressure to the front and rear brakes. Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes and at a rear axle junction block. Steel tubing is used from the junction block to both rear wheel cylinders. All fittings, tubing and hoses should be inspected for rusted, damaged or defective flaring seats. The steel tubing is equipped with a double flare or inverted seat to insure more positive seating in the fitting. To repair or reflare tubing proceed as follows:

(1)

Using Tool C-3478, cut off the damaged seat or damaged tubing, (Fig. 3).

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tubing prior to flaring tubing.

(Blow out tubing with air.)

(3)

To flare tubing open handles of flaring Tool

C-3838

and rotate jaws of tool until the mating jaws of tubing size are centered in the area between vertical posts.

NY1371A

Fig. 3-Cutting and Flaring Steel Tubing

(2)

Ream out any burred or rough edges showing on inside edges of tubing. This will make the ends of the tubing square and insure better seating of the flared end of the tubing.

Place compression nut on

Condition

SPONGY BRAKE PEDAL

BRAKES PULLING

jaws but do not apply heavy pressure to handle as this will lock tubing in place.

(5)

Place gauge “Form

A”

on edge over end of tubing and push tubing through jaws until end of tubing contacts the recessed notch of gauge matching the size of tubing. (Fig.

3).

( 6 )

Squeeze handles of flaring tool and lock tubing in place.

(7)

Place proper sized plug of gauge

“A”

down in end of tubing. Swing compression disc over gauge and center tapered flaring screw in recess of disc.

(8)

Lubricate taper of flaring screw and screw in until plug gauge has seated on jaws of flaring tool.

This action has started to invert the extended end of the tubing.

(9) Remove gauge and apply lubricant to tapered end of flaring screw and continue to screw down until tool is firmly seated in tubing.

(10)

Remove tubing from flaring tool and inspect seat.

SERVICE BRAKES

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible Cause

Fluid low in reservoir.

Excessively worn brake lining.

Improperly adjusted brake.

Leaking wheel cylinders.

Loose or broken brake lines.

Air in hydraulic brake system.

Leaking or worn master cylinder.

Correction

(a) Fill and bleed the master cylinder.

(b) Reline and adjust the brakes.

(d) qu ired.

Recondition or replace the wheel cylinder and replace both brake shoes.

(e) Tighten all brake fittings or replace the brake line.

(f)

Fill and bleed the hydraulic brake system.

(g) Recondition or replace the master cylinder and bleed the hydraulic system.

(a)

Air in hydraulic system. u

1 ic system.

Improper brake fluid (low boiling

(b)

Drain, flush and point). fluid.

Excessively worn or cracked brake (c) Replace all defective brake drums. drums.

Broken pedal pivot bushing.

(a) Fill the master cylinder and bleed the hydra

(d) refill with brake

Replace nylon pivot bushing.

Incorrect brake adjustment.

Brake d r u m s out of round.

Brake shoes distorted.

Contaminated

I i ning.

Unmatched brake I i ning.

(a) Adjust the brakes and check the fluid.

(b) Grind or replace the brake drums.

(d)

Replace the contaminated brake lin-

ng.

(e) Match the primary, secondary and same type of lining on all wheels.

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5-4 SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Condition

SQUEALING BRAKES

DRAGGING BRAKES

HARD PEDAL

Possible Cause

(f) Restricted brake hose or line.

(g) Front end out of alignment.

(h) Broken rear spring.

Correction

(f) Replace the plugged hose or brake line.

(g) Align the front end.

(h) Replace the broken spring.

(a) Incorrect brake lining.

(b) Dust in brakes or scored brake drums.

(d) Bent support plate.

(e) Broken or weak brake shoe return spring.

(f) Weak or broken brake shoe retaining spring.

(g) Glazed brake lining.

(h) Saturated brake lining.

(a) Install matched brake lining.

(b) Blow out the brake assembly with compressed air and grind the brake drums.

(d) Replace the support plate.

(e) Replace the return spring.

(f) Replace the retaining spring.

(g) Cam grind or replace the brake lining.

(h) Replace the saturated lining.

(a) Incorrect wheel or parking brake ad- j ustment.

(b) Parking brakes engaged.

(d) Brake pedal binding.

(a) Adjust the brakes and check the fluid.

(b) Release the parking brakes.

(e) Master cylinder cup sticking.

(f) Incorrect master cylinder push rod adjustment.

(g) Obstructed master cylinder relief port.

(h) Saturated brake lining.

(i) Bent or out of round brake drum.

(d) Free up and lubricate the brake ped- a l and linkage.

(e) Recondition the master cylinder.

(f) Properly adjust the master cylinder push rod.

(g) Used compressed air and blow out the relief port.

(h) Replace the brake lining.

(i) Grind or replace the faulty brake drum.

(a)

Incorrect brake lining.

(a) Install matched brake lining.

(b) Incorrect brake push rod adjustment. (b) Adjust the brake push rod and check

(d) Restricted brake line or hose. the fluid.

(a) Clean out or replace the brake line

(e)

Brake booster inoperative. or hose.

(e) Recondition or replace the brake booster.

WHEEL LOCKS

BRAKES FADE

(HIGH SPEED)

PEDAL PULSATES

BRAKE CHATTER

(a) Loose or torn brake lining.

(a) Replace the brake lining.

(b) Incorrect wheel bearing adjustment. (b) Clean, pack and adjust the wheel

(d) Contaminated brake lining. bearings.

(d) Reline both front or rears or all four

,brakes.

(a) Incorrect lining.

(a)

Replace lining.

(b) Distorted or out of round brake drums. (b) Grind or replace the drums.

(d) Incorrect brake fluid (low boiling tem- (d) Drain, flush, refill and bleed the perature).

(e) Saturated brake lining. hydraulic brake system.

(e) Reline both front or rear or brakes. all four

(a) Bent or out of round brake drum.

(a) Out of round brake drum.

(b) Loose support plate.

(a) Grind or replace the brake drums.

(a) Grind or replace the brake drum.

(b) Tighten the support plate bolts to the proper torque.

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10-11 INCH BRAKES 5-5

Condition Possible

Cause

Correction

(d) Distorted brake shoes.

(e)

(d) Replace the brake shoes.

Machine grooves in the contact face (e) Grind or replace the brake drum. of the brake drum.

(f) Contaminated brake lining. (f) Replace either front or rear or alr four brakes.

BRAKES DO

ADJUST

NOT SELF

(a) Adjuster screw frozen in the thread. (a) Clean and free-up all thread areas.

(b) Adjuster screw corroded at the thrust (b) Clean the threads and replace the washer. thrust washer if necessary.

10-11 INCH BRAKES

Page

Brake Drum Removal

Front Brake Drums

Rear Brake Drums

..........................

...........................

Brake Shoe Removal

Front Brake Shoes

Rear Brake Shoes

..........................

...........................

Cleaning and Inspection

.......................

INDEX

Grinding Recommendations

Brake Shoe Installation

Front Brake Shoes

Rear Brake Shoes

....................

..........................

...........................

Page

Brake Drum Installation

Front Brake Drums

..........................

Rear Brake Drums

..........................

SERVICE PROCEDURES

Fig. I-Brake Assemblies (Front)

BRAKE DRUM REMOVAL

Removing the Front Brake Drums

To aid in the brake drum removal loosen the brake star adjusting wheel.

(1) W i t h vehicle on a hoist, jack or suitable stands remove rear plug from the brake adjusting access hole.

(2)

Insert a thin screw driver into the brake adjusting hole and push adjusting lever away from star adjusting wheel.

Care should be taken not to bend adjusting lever.

(3)

I n s e r t Tool

C-3784

into brake adjusting hole and engage notches of the brake adjusting star wheel.

Release brake adjustment by prying up with adjusting tool.

(4)

Remove wheel cover, grease cap, cotter pin, lock, adjusting nut, outer wheel bearing and remove wheel and drum assembly from the spindle to expose brake linings. (Fig.

1.)

(5)

Inspect brake lining for wear, shoe alignment, o r contamination from grease or brake fluid.

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5-6

10-11 I N C H BRAKES

Removing the Rear Brake Drums

(1)

With vehicle on a hoist, jack, or suitable stands, remove rear plug from the brake adjusting access hole.

(2)

Insert a thin screw driver into brake adjusting hole and hold adjusting lever away from notches of the adjusting screw.

(3)

Insert Tool

C-3784

into the brake adjusting hole and engage notches of brake adjusting screw. Release brake by prying up with adjusting tool.

(4)

Remove the rear wheel and clips from wheel studs that holds the drum on axle. Remove drum.

(5)

Inspect brake lining for wear, shoe alignment or contamination from grease

or

brake fluid.

BRAKE SHOE REMOVAL

Fig. 2-Brake Assemblies (Rear)

Install cylinder piston clamps,

Tool C-416 to prevent fluid leakage or air entering the hydraulic system during brake shoe removal.

Removing the Front Brake Shoes

With vehicle elevated on a hoist, jack or suitable stands, remove front wheels and drums.

(1)

Using Tool

C-3785

remove the brake shoe return springs, (Fig.

3).

(Note how secondary spring overlaps primary spring.) (Fig.

1).

(2)

Remove brake shoe retainer, spring and nails,

(Fig. 4).

(3)

Slide the eye of the automatic adjuster cable off anchor and unhook from lever. Remove cable, cable guide and anchor plate.

(4)

Disconnect the lever spring from lever and disengage from shoe web. Remove spring and lever.

(5)

Remove primary and secondary brake shoe assemblies and the adjusting star wheel from support.

Install the wheel cylinder clamps (Tool

C416)

to hold oistons in cvlinders.

Fig. 3-Removing or Installing Brake Shoe Return

Springs (Left Front)

Fig. 4-Removing Brake Shoe Retainer, Spring and Nails (Right Front)

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10-11 INCH BRAKES

5-7

Fig.

5-Removing or hstalling Brake Shoe Return

Springs (Left Rear)

Removing the Rear Brake Shoes

(1)

With the vehicle elevated on a hoist, jack or suitable stand, remove rear wheel, and drum retaining clips. Remove drum.

(2)

Using Tool C-3785 remove the brake shoe return springs (Fig. 5). (Note how secondary spring overlaps primary spring.) (Fig. 2.)

(3)

Remove the brake shoe retainers, springs, and nails, refer to (Fig. 6).

(4) Slide eye of the automatic adjuster cable off anchor and then unhook from the lever. Remove cable, cable guide and anchor plate.

(5) Disconnect the lever spring from lever and disengage from shoe web. Remove the spring and lever.

(6) Spread the anchor ends of primary and secondary shoes and remove parking brake strut and spring.

(Fig.

7.)

(7) Disengage the parking brake cable from parking brake lever and remove brake assembly.

(8)

Remove the primary and secondary brake shoe assemblies and adjusting star wheel from support. In- stall wheel cylinder (Tool C416, to hold the pistons in cylinders.)

Fig.

6-Removing or

Installing Brake

Shoe

Retainers,

Springs a n d Nails (Right Rear)

NN483

Fig.

7-Removing o r lnstalling Parking Brake Strut a n d

Spring

(left

Rear)

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Wipe or brush clean (dry) the metal portions of the brake shoes. Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if the shoes are bent. The lining should show contact across the entire width, extending from heel to toe. Shoes showing contact only on one side should be replaced. Shoes having sufficient lining but lack of contact at toe and heel should be measured for proper grind.

Clean the support, using a suitable solvent, then inspect for burrs. Remove if necessary. Clean and lubricate threads of the adjusting screws, then inspect for pulled or stripped threads.

GRINDING RECOMMENDATIONS

Brake Shoe Lining-New lining should be measured and ground .060 to .080“ (maximum) under the drum diameter.

Drum Refacing-Measure the drum runout with an accurate gauge. Drum runout should not exceed

.006

inch out of round.

If the drum runout is in excess of

.006 inch, (total indicator run-out) the drum should be refaced. Remove only as much material as is necessary to clean up the drum. Do not reface more than

.060

inch over the standard drum diameter.

BRAKE SHOE INSTALLATION

lnstalling the Front Brake Shoes

To install the front brake shoes, refer to (Fig. l), and proceed as follows:

(1)

Match a primary with a secondary brake shoe and place them in their relative position on a work bench.

(2) Lubricate the threads of adjusting screw and install it between primary and secondary shoes with star wheel next to secondary shoe. Refer to (Fig. 1).

The star adjusting wheels are stamped “R” (right side) and vehicle. Lubricate shoe contact area on support with lubriplate.

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5-8 10-11 I N C H BRAKES

RY SHOE

NlNG

‘

> t L U N U A K Y X I W E

AND

LINING

NN485

Fig. 8-Installing 5 r a k e Shoes (Left Front)

(3)

Overlap anchor ends of the primary and secondary brake shoes and install adjusting spring and lever.

(4) Spread the anchor ends of brake shoes to maintain the adjusting lever and spring in position.

(5)

Holding the brake shoes in their relative position, place brake shoe assembly on support and over anchor pin, (Fig. 8). Remove tool C416.

(6) Install nails, cups, springs and retainers.

(7) Install the anchor pin plate.

(8) Install the cable guide in secondary shoe and place “eye” of adjusting cable over the anchor pin.

(9) Install return spring in the primary shoe. Using

Tool C3785, slide spring over anchor.

(10) Install return spring in secondary shoe and slide over anchor, using Tool C3785. (Be sure the secondary spring overlaps primary, refer to Fig. 1). (Be sure cable guide remains flat against shoe web).

(11) Place the adjusting cable over guide and engage hook of cable into the adjusting lever.

(12) Lubricate the wheel bearings and install brake drum and adjust wheel bearing to proper preload.

(13) Adjust brakes as described under General In- formation of this section.

lnstalling the Rear Brake Shoes

(1)

Inspect the platforms of support for nicks or burrs. Apply a thin coat of lubricant to the support platforms. (Shoe contact area.)

(2)

Attach the parking brake lever to back side of secondary shoe, refer to (Fig. 9).

(3) Place the secondary and a primary shoe in their

Fig. 9-Installing Brake Shoes

(Left

Rear)

relative position on a work bench.

(4) Lubricate threads of the adjusting screw and install it between primary and secondary shoes with star wheel next to secondary shoe. The star adjusting wheels are stamped “R” (right side) and

“L”

(left side), and indicate their location on vehicle.

( 5 )

Overlap the anchor ends of the primary and secondary brake shoes and install adjusting spring and lever.

(6)

Holding the brake shoes in their relative position and engage parking brake cable into parking brake lever.

(7)

Install the parking brake strut and spring between parking brake lever and primary shoe, refer to

(Fig. 7). Remove Tool C416.

(8) Place the brake shoes on support and install retainer nails, springs and retainers. (Fig.

9.)

(9) Install anchor pin plate.

(10) Install “eye” of the adjusting cable over anchor pin and install return spring between primary shoe and the anchor pin.

(11) Install the cable guide in secondary shoe then install secondary return spring.

(Be sure secondary spring overlaps primary, (Fig. 2) and return spring does not slip between anchor pin and eye of cable.)

(12) Place the adjusting cable in groove of cable guide and engage hook of cable into adjusting lever.

(Be sure cable guide is flat against shoe web.)

(13) Install brake drum and retaining clips. Install wheel and tire assembly.

(14) Adjust the brakes as described under “Service

Procedures” of this section.

MASTER CYLINDER

REMOVING T H E MASTER CYLINDER

Should it become necessary to remove the master cylinder for repair or overhaul, proceed as follows:

(1) Disconnect the push rod from pedal.

(2) Disconnect the brake tube at master cylinder outlet.

(3)

Remove the nuts and bolts that attach master cylinder to dash panel. Slide master cylinder straight out and away from dash panel.

(4)

Remove push rod return spring.

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10-11 INCH BRAKES 5-9

BOLT

GASKET

CONNECTOR

NKl36

Fig.

1-Master Cylinder

Assembly

DISASSEMBLING THE MASTER CYLINDER

To disassemble the master cylinder, refer to (Fig.

I),

then proceed as follows:

Clean outside of master cylinder thoroughly, then drain all the brake fluid.

(1)

Remove the piston stop flange attaching bolts and remove dust boot, push rod and piston assembly.

(Do not remove push rod from piston.)

(2)

Remove the brass washer between piston and cup. Remove the master cylinder primary cup, spring, valve and seal from master cylinder.

(3) Wash master cylinder bore with clean brake fluid and inspect for scoring or pitting.

If master cylinder piston is badly scored or corroded, replace it with a new one. The primary and secondary cups and valve assembly should be replaced when reconditioning master cylinder.

Master cylinder walls that have light scratches or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned with crocus cloth. However, cylinders that have deep scrathes or scoring may be honed, providing the diameter of the cylinder bore is not increased more than

.002

inch.' A master cylinder bore that does not clean up at

.002

inch should be discarded and a new cylinder installed. (Black stains on the cylinder wall are caused by the piston cups and will do no harm.)

Use extreme care in cleaning the master cylinder after reconditioning. Remove all dust or grit by flushing the cylinder with alcohol; wipe dry with a clean lintless cloth and clean a second time with alcohol.

Dry the master cylinder with compressed air then flush with clean brake fluid. (Be sure the

.028 inch diameter hole compensator port in the master cylinder bore is open.)

ASSEMBLING THE MASTER CYLINDER

Before assembling, the piston, cups and valve assembly should be dipped in clean brake fluid. To reassemble the master cylinder, refer to (Fig. l), then proceed as follows:

(1)

Install seal, check valve and spring in the cylinder with valve toward outlet of cylinder.

(2)

Install the master cylinder cup in cylinder with open end of cup over closed end of return spring.

(3)

Install the secondary cup on master cylinder piston and install piston and push rod assembly in cylinder with flat brass washer between the piston and primary cup.

(4)

Install the dust boot on push rod and install stop flange bolts.

INSTALLING THE MASTER CYLINDER

(1)

Reinstall the master cylinder on dash panel and

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5-10 10-11 I N C H BRAKES

+ fill with brake fluid. Tighten nuts to 100 inch pounds.

(2) Attach brake line and pedal to push rod.

(3)

Bleed the brake system as described under

“Service Procedures,” of this section.

WHEEL CYLINDERS

REMOVING T H E WHEEL CYLINDERS

Front or Rear

With all the brake drums removed inspect the wheel cylinder boots for evidence of a brake fluid leak. (A slight amount of fluid on the boot may not be a leak, but may be preservative oil used on the assembly.)

(1) In the case of a leak, remove brake shoes

(replace if soaked with grease or brake fluid), boots, pistons, wheel cylinder cups and wheel cylinder cup expansion spring.

(2) Wash the wheel cylinder bore with clean brake fluid and inspect for scoring or pitting.

Use extreme care in cleaning wheel cylinder after reconditioning. Remove all dust or grit by flushing the cylinder with alcohol; Wipe dry with a clean lintless cloth and clean a second time with alcohol. Dry the wheel cylinder with air pressure, then flush with clean brake fluid. (Be sure bleeder screw port and the bleeder screw are clean and open.)

Wheel cylinder bores or pistons that are badly scored or corroded should be replaced. The old piston cups should be discarded when reconditioning the wheel cylinders.

Cylinder walls that have light scratches, or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned with crocus cloth, using a circular motion. However, cylinders that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, using Tool inder bore is not increased more than

.002

inch.

A cylinder that does not clean up at

.002 inch should be discarded and a new cylinder installed. (Black stains on the cylinder walls are caused by the piston cups and will do no harm.)

Should inspection reveal the necessity of installing a new wheel cylinder (front or rear), proceed as follows:

(1)

Disconnect brake hose from brake tube at frame bracket (front wheels) or, disconnect brake tube from wheel cylinder (rear wheels).

(2)

Disconnect the brake hose from wheel cylinder

(front wheels only) and remove wheel cylinder attaching bolts, then slide wheel cylinder out of support.

DISASSEMBLING T H E WHEEL CYLINDERS

(Front or Rear)

If the wheel cylinders were not disassembled before removal, refer to (Fig. 1) then proceed as follows:

(1)

Remove boots and push rods.

(2) Press in on one end of cylinder and force out piston, cup, piston spring, cup and piston.

ASSEMBLING T H E WHEEL CYLINDERS

(Front or Rear)

To assemble the wheel cylinder, then proceed as follows: refer to (Fig. 1)

BRAKE

CYLINDER-FRONT

/HOUSING

BLEED

SCREW

BRAKE

CYLINDER-REAR

Fig. 1-Wheel Cylinders (Front and Rear)

NK506

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Before assembling the pistons and new cups in wheel cylinder, dip them in brake fluid. If the boots are deteriorated, cracked or do not fit tightly on the brake shoe push rod, as well as the wheel cylinder casting, new boots should be installed.

(1)

Wash wheel cylinder with alcohol and blow dry with air.

(2) Install expansion spring in cylinder. Install wheel cylinder cups in each end of cylinder with the open end of cups facing each other.

(3)

Install the wheel cylinder pistons in each end

of

cylinder with recessed end of the pistons facing open ends of cylinder.

(4)

Install boots over ends of cylinder. Keep the assembly compressed with aid of a brake cylinder clamp until brake shoes are assembled.

INSTALLING THE WHEEL CYLINDERS

(Front or Rear)

(1)

Slide the wheel cylinder into position in

s u p

port. Install attaching bolts and tighten securely,

(17 to 20 foot pounds).

(2)

Apply sealing putty around wheel cylinder to prevent any water or dirt from entering brake assembly.

(3)

Connect brake tube to wheel cylinder and tighten to 95 inch pounds (rear wheels) or connect brake hose to wheel cylinder (front wheels), and tighten to

25 foot pounds, before connecting brake hose to frame bracket.

Should hose be connected to wheel cylinder last, the tightening of hose into wheel cylinder will twist hose, which can result in suspension or tire interference.

REMOVING THE BRAKE SUPPORT

(Front)

(1)

Disconnect the brake line from brake hose at frame bracket.

(2)

With wheel and brake drum removed, remove four support attaching nuts and washer.

(3)

Remove support and brake assembly from spindle.

(Rear)

(1)

With the wheel and brake drum removed, remove support attaching nuts and washers.

(2)

Remove rear axle shaft and retainer.

(3)

Disconnect hydraulic brake line from wheel cylinder.

(4)

Disengage brake cable from parking brake lever.

10-11 INCH BRAKES 5-11

_c\

CABLE

A'SSEMBLY

'CABLE RETAINING CLIP

63x596

Fig. 2-Removing

Brake

Cable

from

Support

(5)

Using a suitable tool compress the three flared legs of cable retainer and pull brake cable out of support, (Fig. 2).

( 6 )

Remove the brake support from rear axle housing.

INSTALLING THE BRAKE SUPPORT

(Front)

(1)

Install the brake shoes on support.

(2)

Place the support on spindle support and install attaching bolts, nuts and washers. Tighten attaching nuts to

55 foot-pounds.

(3)

Connect the brake hose to wheel cylinder and tighten to 25 foot pounds, before connecting brake hose to frame bracket.

Should hose be connected to wheel cylinder last, tightening of hose into wheel cylinder will twist the hose, which can result in suspan- sion or tire interference problems.

(4)

Install brake drum and wheel bearings. Adjust the bearings. Bleed and adjust the brakes.

(Rear)

(1) Install brake shoes on the support.

(2)

Install support onto rear axle housing.

(3)

Insert rear axle shaft and retainer into housing and install axle retainer nuts and washers. Tighten retainer nuts to

foot-pounds.

(4)

Attach brake line to wheel cylinder and tighten to 95 inch-pounds.

(5)

Insert parking brake cable into support plate and attach the cable to parking brake lever.

( 6 )

Install the brake drum and wheel. Bleed and adjust the brakes.

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5-12 PARKING BRAKES

INDEX

PARKING BRAKES

Adjusting the Parking Brake

General Information

Page

..................

13 Removing Front Parking Brake Cable

..........................

12 Removing Rear Parking Brake Cable

Installing the Front Parking Brake Cable

Installing the Rear Parking Brake Cable

Page

............

........

13 Service Diagnosis

.............................

. . . . . . . .

GENERAL INFORMATION

The rear wheel service brakes also act as parking brakes. The brake shoes are mechanically operated by a lever and strut connected to a flexible steel cable,

The wheel brake cables are joined together by a

for-

ward brake cable and equalizer extending t o the parking brake pedal or release handle, (Figs.

and 2).

Condition

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible Cause Correction

Improper cable or brake shoe adjust- (a) ment.

Broken brake shoe return spring.

Broken brake shoe retainer spring.

Grease or brake fluid soaked lining.

Properly adjust the service brakes

(b)

(C)

(d) then adjust the parking brake cable.

Replace any broken return spring.

Replace the broken retainer spring.

Replace the grease seal or recondition the wheel cylinders and replace

Sticking or frozen brake cable. (e) both brake shoes.

Replace the cables.

Broken rear spring.

Bent or rusted cable equalizer.

(f)

(g)

Replace the broken rear spring.

Straighten, or replace and lubricate the equalizer.

BRAKE WILL NOT HOLD

(a)

(b)

(C)

(d)

Broken or rusted brake cable.

Improperly adjusted brake or cable.

Soaked brake

i n i ng.

Ratchet or pedal mechanism worn.

(a)

(b)

(C)

(d)

Replace cable.

Adjust brakes and cable as necessary.

Replace the brake lining.

Replace pedal assembly.

Fig. 1 -Parking Brake Cable Routing

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PARKING BRAKES 5-13

ADJUSTING

THE

PARKING BRAKES

The service brakes must be properly adjusted before adjusting the parking brake.

(1)

Release the parking brake lever and loosen cable adjusting nut to insure cable is slack, refer to

(Fig.

Before loosening cable adjusting nut, clean threads with wire brush and lubricate with grease.

(2)

Tighten the cable adjusting nut until a slight drag is felt while rotating wheel, loosen cable adjusting nut until both rear wheels can be rotated freely, then back off the cable adjusting nut two full turns.

(3)

Apply the parking brake several times, then release and test to see that rear wheels rotate freely without dragging.

REMOVING THE REAR PARKING BRAKE

CABLE

The independent rear brake cables are attached to

an

equalizer, (Fig. 1). The front cable is adjusted a t the equalizer.

Should it become necessary to remove the parking brake cable (rear) for installation of a new cable, refer to (Fig.

under “Wheel Cylinders.”

(1)

With vehicle jacked up or on a suitable hoist, remove rear wheels.

(2)

Disconnect the brake cable from equalizer.

(3)

Remove the retaining clip from brake cable bracket.

(4)

Remove brake drum from the rear axle.

(5)

Remove brake shoe return springs.

(6)

Remove brake shoe retaining springs.

(7)

Remove brake shoe strut and spring from support plate and disconnect brake cable from operating arm.

(8) Compress retainers on the end of brake cable housing and remove cable from brake plate. Refer to

(Fig. 2). Removing Brake Support.

INSTALLING T H E REAR PARKING BRAKE

CABLE

When installing a new brake cable, lubricate the cable with short fibre grease at the contact points.

(1)

Insert brake cable and housing into brake support plate making certain that housing retainers lock housing firmly into place.

(2) Holding the brake shoes in place on support plate, engage brake cable into brake shoe operating lever. Install parking brake strut and spring.

(3)

Install the brake shoe retaining springs, and brake shoe return springs.

(4)

Install brake drum and the wheel.

(5)

Insert brake cable and the housing into cable bracket and install retaining clip.

(6)

Insert brake cable into the equalizer. Note different size slot for corresponding cable and fitting.

(7)

Adjust service brakes and the parking brake cable.

REMOVING T H E FRONT PARKING

BRAKE CABLE

(1) Disengage front parking brake cable from equalizer bar. Refer to (Fig.

1).

(2) Disengage the cable from guide clip.

(3)

Using a screw driver force the cable housing and attaching clip out of body crossmember.

(4)

Fold back the left front edge of floor mat and remove rubber cable cover from floor pan.

(5)

Depress

the parking brake pedal and work brake cable up and out of brake pedal linkage, (Fig.

2).

(6) Using a screw driver force upper end of cable housing and clip down out of pedal assembly bracket.

(7)

Remove cable to floor pan clip and work cable and housing assembly

through the floor pan.

BULB AND BRACKET

‘2

Fig. 2-Parking Brake

Pedal

INSTALLING T H E FRONT PARKING BRAKE

CABLE

(1)

Insert the rear end of the brake cable and housing down through cable routing hole in floor pan.

(2)

Push upper end of cable and housing assembly up through pedal assembly bracket and firmly attach housing and clip into bracket.

(3)

Replace cable to floor pan clip.

(4)

Depress parking brake pedal and insert end of cable into parking brake pedal clevis.

(5) Insert the cable through body crossmember and firmly press into housing and attaching clip.

(6)

Attach the front cable to equalizer bar.

(7)

Adjust the service brakes and parking brake cable.

(8)

Apply brakes several times and test for free wheel rotation when parking brake is in the “off” position.

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5-14 M I D L A N D ROSS POWER BRAKE

M I D L A N D ROSS POWER BRAKE

INDEX

Assembling the Power Brake

Cleaning and Inspection

Page

...................

Installing the Power Brake

......................

16 Removing the Power Brake

....................

Disassembling the Power Brake

General Information

................

14 Service Diagnosis

...........................

....................

.............................

Page

G

N

ERAL INFORMATION

The Midland Ross power brake, (Fig.

is located on the engine side of the dash panel. The forward cover of the vacuum cylinder supports the master cylinder. The power brake derives its power from the intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure. It does not require a vacuum reservoir.

Condition

DRAGGING BRAKES

(ALL WHEELS)

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

Possible Cause

(a)

(b)

(C)

(d)

(e)

Brake shoes improperly adjusted.

Brake pedal linkage binding.

Excessive hydra u 1 ic sea I friction.

Compensator port plugged.

Sticking valve plunger.

(g)

Improper booster push rod length adjustment.

Fluid cannot return to master cylinder.

(h)

(i)

Parking brake not returning.

Improperly staked valve sleeve.

Correction

(a) Adjust the brakes.

(b) Free up the linkage.

(d) Clean out the master cylinder.

(e) Free up and lubricate the valve plunger.

(f) Adjust the push rod.

(g) Inspect the pedal return and push rod adjustment.

(h) Free up as required.

(i) Replace valve assembly.

GRABBING BRAKES

1 Grease or brake fluid on linings.

(b)

(C)

Sticking actuating valve.

Wheel cylinder frozen.

(a) Inspect for a leak and replace the lining as required.

(b) Free up the valve.

PEDAL GOES TO FLOOR

(OR ALMOST TO FLOOR)

(a)

(b)

(C)

(d)

(e)

Self-adjusters not operating.

Air in hydraulic system.

Hydraulic leak.

Fluid low in master cylinder.

Broken plunger stem.

(a) Inspect the self-adjuster operations.

(b) Bleed the brakes.

(d) Add brake fluid.

!e) Replace valve plunger assembly.

HARD PEDAL (POWER

UNIT

TROUBLE)

(b)

(C)

(e)

(f)

Faulty vacuum check valve.

Collapsed or leaking vacuum hose.

(a) Replace the check valve.

(b) Replace the hose.

Plugged vacuum fittings.

Leaking vacuum chamber. (d) Locate and correct the leak.

Diaphragm assembly out of place in (e) Position the diaphragm. housing.

Vacuum leak in forward vacuum (f) Locate and correct the leak. ho u

i g.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

REMOVING T H E POWER BRAKE

Should it become necessary to remove the power brake for repair or overhaul, refer to (Fig. 1) and proceed as follows:

(1) With engine turned off, apply brakes several times to balance internal pressure of the brake.

(2)

Disconnect the hydraulic brake line from master cylinder.

(3)

Disconnect vacuum hose from power brake.

(4) From under instrument panel, remove nut and attaching bolt from power brake push r o d and brake pedal linkage.

(5) Remove the four power brake attaching nuts and washers.

(6)

Remove the power brake and master cylinder f r o m vehicle and place on a service bench for further diassembly.

DISASSEMBLING T H E POWER BRAKE

To

disassemble the power brake unit f o r repair o r overhaul refer to (Fig. 2) then proceed as follows:

(1)

Remove four nuts that attach master cylinder t o power brake unit. Remove master cylinder.

(2)

Remove air f i l t e r cover assembly from power

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MIDLAND ROSS POWER BRAKE

5-15

FILTER COVER

Fig. I -Power Brake and Master Cylinder

brake unit, separate cover and retainer, then remove air filter

(Fig. 3).

(3) Remove check valve and rubber grommet from power brake unit.

(4) Remove rubber boot from operating rod.

(5) Scribe a line across front cover, clamp band and rear cover (Fig. 4).

(6) Push the bellows lip into vacuum chamber to separate bellows, control valve and diaphragm assembly from front and rear covers (Fig. 5).

(7)

Remove clamp band screw and nut and remove clamp band. Separate front and rear covers.

(8) Remove rear seal from rear cover (Fig. 6).

(9) Remove bellows clamp and the support rings from bellows (Fig.

7).

(10) Remove the bellows from control hub (Fig.

8).

(11) Remove push rod and reaction lever assemblies (Fig. 9) from control hub.

(12) Remove two plastic push rod guides, cone retainer and reaction cone from push rod (Fig. 10).

(13) Remove operating rod from plunger, by hold-

NN7

Fig. 3--Filter, Retainer and Cover Assembly

ing rod firmly and forcing plunger off rod; shearing plastic retaining ring. (If the plunger is to be used again, remove all broken pieces of plastic retaining ring from groove in the plunger.)

(14) Using Tool C-3984, turn control hub clockwise while holding power piston. (Fig. 11). Separate tail stock and the

“0”

(15) Using snap ring pliers, remove retainer that holds plunger to control hub (Fig. 12). Separate control hub and plunger assembly (Fig. 13).

I t may be necessary to file any burrs that protrude from the end of plunger before it is removed from control hub.

A score in this area can cause a leak.

(16) Using a screwdriver, compress spring toward rubber valve, then remove spring retainer (Fig. 14).

Fig. 2-Power Brake Assembly

RETAINER

NN8

Fig. 4-Scribe Marks on Front Cover, Clamp Band and Rear Cover

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$16

MIDLAND ROSS POWER BRAKE

POWER PISTON

Fig. 5-Separating t h e 5ellows from t h e Front Cover

SUPPORT RINGS

Fig. 7-Removing t h e Bellows Clamp

CONTR NN12

Fig. 8-Removing

Installing

the

Bellows

Fig. 6-Removing the Seal from t h e Rear Cover

washer, rubber valve, washer (Fig.

15).

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Thoroughly wash all the metal parts in a suitable solvent and dry with compressed air. The power piston diaphragm, control hub and all plastic parts should be washed in a mild soap solution and water.

Using air pressure, blow out all internal passages.

All rubber parts should be replaced regardless of condition. Install new air filter at reassembly.

Inspect all parts for scoring, pitting, dents or nicks,

CONTROL HUB

POWER PISTON AND

DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBL

Fig. 9-Push Rods, Reaction Lever and Control Hub

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REACTION CONE

MIDLAND ROSS POWER BRAKE 5-17

PLUNGER

Fig. IO-Push Rod Assembly

Fig. I 3 - C o n t r o l Housing and Plunger Assembly

Fig. 12-Removing or Installing t h e Plunger Retainer

small imperfections can be smoothed out, using crocus cloth. Replace all parts that are badly scored,

SPRING‘

NN18

Fig. 14-Removing or Installing the

Spring Retainer

nicked or damaged.

At reassembly, coat all rubber parts, (including the diaphragm), with silicone grease.

ASSEMBLING

THE

POWER BRAKE

To reassemble the power brake after cleaning and inspection, proceed as follows:

“0”

ring and fibre washer on plunger (Fig.

15).

(2) Using a screwdriver, compress spring towards rubber valve then install the spring retainer on plunger, with the flange toward spring (Fig.

14).

(3) Install the control valve plunger into control hub (Fig.

13)

so that round holes in rubber valve index with raised projections on hub and flat side on spring seat mates with flat projection on hub. in plunger groove, using snap ring pliers (Fig. thus securing control valve plunger in control hub.

12),

(5)

Install tail stock over the plunger, with flat on tail stock mating with flat surface on hub.

(6)

Install the

“0”

“V”

groove formed by tail stock and hub (Fig.

insert).

(7)

Lower power piston assembly over tail stock

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5-18 MIDLAND ROSS POWER BRAKE

RUBBER

SPRING

SEAT

SPRING

FIBRE WASHER

PLUNGER

RUBBER VALVE

SPRING RETAINER

NNl9

Fig. 15-Plunger Assembly (Exploded V i e w )

and control control hub hub and seat. Using Tool

(2-3984,

counterclockwise to lock in place (Fig.

16).

lever assembly in the control hub with rubber segments toward control hub.

(9)

Slide the reaction cone over push rod (Fig.

lo),

then install retainer. Install two plastic guides on push rod. Install push rod assembly in valve hub so that push rod indexes in valve plunger (Fig. 9). position diaphragm, control valve components, and bellows as an assembly into rear cover (Fig.

17).

(13)

with larger diameter side on outside of unit. Install check valve assembly through grommet. to rear cover. (Make sure the lip of diaphragm is evenly positioned on

re-

taining radius of front and rear covers.) Now, pull front lip of bellows through front cover and position evenly around diameter of hole (Fig.

5).

and down into position in two larger folds (Fig.

17).

Slide bellows over control hub until the lip of the bellows slides into recess of the hub (Fig.

8).

Se- cure bellows on hub by using a new clamp on the diaphragm end of bellows (Fig.

17).

(12)

Slide the rear seal into rear cover (Fig.

and rear cover. Align scribe lines, compress the assembly

NEW CLAMP

POWER PISTON ASSEMBLY

Fig. 16-Installing t h e Control Hub to the Power

Piston

NN21

Fig. 17-Bellows Jnstolled on the Power Piston

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+ together, and secure with clamp band bolt (Fig.

4).

Tap clamp band with a fibre hammer around its circumference as bolt is being tightened. Tighten to

inch-pounds (Min.).

(16)

Install the rubber boot to operating rod and assemble plastic retainer to end of the rod. Insert rod into plunger so that retainer engages groove in plunger. Install lip of boot in groove of rear seal.

(17)

Position air filter in plastic filter cover then snap cover and filter on metal hub with filter between

(Fig.

3).

(18)

Assemble cover, filter, and retainer assembly

KELSEY-HAYES POWER BRAKE 5-19

to unit with metal retainer against cover.

(19)

Install master cylinder on power brake.

Tighten mounting nuts to 100 inch-pounds.

INSTALLING THE POWER BRAKE

(1)

Install power brake assembly into dash and tighten attaching nuts 200 inch-pounds.

(2)

Connect brake line and vacuum hose.

(3)

Install push rod to brake pedal attaching bolt and nut, and tighten to

foot-pounds.

(4)

Refill master cylinder and bleed the brakes.

KELSEY-HAYES POWER BRAKE

INDEX

Assembli,ng the Power Brake

Cleaning and Inspection

Disassembling the Power Brake

General Information

Page

..................

.......................

................

...........................

Installing the Power Brake

Removing the Power Brake

Service Diagnosis

Page

.....................

....................

.............................

GENERAL INFORMATION

The power brake (Fig. l), is a combined vacuum and hydraulic unit which utilizes engine intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure to provide power assisted application of the vehicle brakes. The power unit provides lighter pedal pressure.

This lighter pressure is obtained in combination with a reduced pedal travel, which makes it possible to bring the pedal down to the approximate height of the accelerator pedal when at closed throttle condition. Thus the driver, after closing the throttle, can shift his toe from one pedal to the other without lifting his heel from the floor.

The power brake, which is a self contained unit, eliminates all external rods and levers, and mounts on the engine side of the cowl panel.

The power brake

externally connected to the brake system at three points. The unit is connected by

pedal push rod to the brake pedal, by a vacuum line

PUSH

ROD

NK493

Fig. 1-Power Brake and Master Cylinder

to the intake manifold (through a vacuum check valve) and a hydraulic tube from the master cylinder to the wheel units.

Power

Brake Checks

(1) Vacuum leak in the released position.

With the transmission in neutral or park position, stop the engine and wait 1 minute. Apply the brake several times. Each application should provide less and less pedal travel, following normal depletion of reserve vacuum.

The number of applications on reserve vacuum assist will depend on how hard the pedal is pressed and how far the pedal moves. If vacuum assist is not present, an air leak is indicated.

(2)

Unit Operation

After depleting the reserve vacuum, place light foot pressure on the pedal and start the engine. If the power system is functioning properly, the pedal will fall away slightly.

(3)

Vacuum leak in the Holding Position.

With the transmission in neutral or park position, stop the engine while holding a moderately heavy load steadily on the brake pedal. After 1 minute, release and apply the pedal several times. If there is no vacuum assist during this test, but the system was normal during test number

above, there is an air leak within the unit. Some units on this test will leak air internally if the pedal load is light. This is a normal condition.

(4)

Hydraulic Leak

Depress the brake pedal with light effort while the engine is running, maintaining constant pressure. If the pedal falls noticeably in one minute, the hydraulic system is leaking.

If the pedal has a spongy feel when applying the

MyMopar.com

5-20

KELSEY-HAYES POWER BRAKE

+ brakes, air may be present in the hydraulic system.

Road test the brakes by making a brake application at about

m.p.h. to determine if the vehicle stops evenly and quickly.

If the system checks are satisfactory and the brake pedal travels to within 1 inch of the floor pan, the brake shoes will require an adjustment or replacement.

Actuation System

Checks

(1)

Check for free operation and return of the brake pedal. If binding exists, check all pivot points for binding and lubricate or free up as required.

(2) Check the stoplight switch for proper setting and operation.

(3) Check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.

(4)

Check the vacuum line and connections at the intake manifold and the vacuum check valve for possible vacuum leaks.

(5) Check the engine for good stall free idle and make necessary carburetor adjustments.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

REMOVING T H E POWER BRAKE

Should it become necessary to remove the power brake for repair or overhaul, refer to (Fig.

1) and proceed as follows:

(1)

With engine turned off, apply brakes several times to balance internal pressure of brake.

(2)

Disconnect hydraulic brake line from master cylinder.

(3) Disconnect vacuum hose from power brake check valve.

(4)

Remove nut and bolt that attach power brake push rod from pedal linkage. (Under instrument panel.)

(5)

Remove nuts and washers that attach power brake unit to dash panel.

(6)

Remove power brake and master cylinder from vehicle and place on a service bench for further disassembly. Remove plastic mounting gasket.

DISASSEMBLING T H E POWER BRAKE

To disassemble power brake, refer to (Figs.

and

12), then proceed as follows:

(1)

Remove master cylinder from power brake,

(Fig. 3).

(2) Remove master cylinder push rod and air cleaner plate, (Fig.

4).

(3) Install engine lifting fixture

C-3804

on two of unit mounting studs. Install flatwashers and nuts to hold in position.

(4)

Install fixture in a vise, then

inscribe a line on both housing and cover.

(To be used at reassembly.)

CHECK VALVE ASSEMBLY,

RUBBER GROMMET

/ i

GUIDE SEAL

RETAINER-

CTION

ERT BUMPER

AIR CLEANER

AIR CLEANER PLATE

RETURN SPRING

ER PISTON

4RE SEAL RING

REACTION RING

G ASSY.

DIAPHRAGM

COVER ASSY.'

Fig. 2-Power Brake (Sectional View)

NK496

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MASTER CYLINDER

IR CLEANER PLATE

KELSEY-HAYES POWER BRAKE 5-21

STER CYLINDER STUDS

GUIDE SEAL RETAI

PUSH ROD

Fig. 3-Removing or Installing the Master C y l i n d e r

SPECIAL

TOOL

SCRIBE

SPECIAL TOOL

Fig. 6-Removing or Installing th e Cover

COVER ASSEMBLY

PISTON RETURN SPRING

POWER PISTON

Fig. 4-Removing or I n s t a l l i n g the Master C y l i n d e r

Push R o d

H O U S I N G ASSEMBLY

Fig. 7-Piston Return Spring, Diaphragm and

Piston rON GUIDE

APHRAGM

O W E R PISTON

,HOUSING

BLOCK SEAL

Fig. 5-Removing the H o u s i n g Lock

(5)

Pry out housing lock, using a screwdriver, (Fig.

5).

The lock location is on one of two long tangs on housing.

Do not bend t h e lock a t removal, as it m u s t

reinstalled a t assembly.

(6)

Remove check valve from cover, by prying out of rubber grommet.

(7)

Place Tool

C-3281

ing studs, (Fig. 6).

Fig. 8-Removing or

I n s t a l l i n g the

Power

Piston

(8)

Rotate tool slowly when removing cover as it is under spring pressure. Separate housing and cover to

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5-22 KELSEY-HAYES POWER BRAKE

,GUIDE SEAL

+ the

A i r Cleaner,

Seal and Retainer expose power piston return spring and diaphragm,

(Fig.

7).

(9) Remove cover and lift out power piston return spring.

(10) Remove power piston assembly by slowly lifting straight up, (Fig.

8),

then lay aside on a smooth clean surface. Remove brake unit from engine lifting fixture

C-3804.

(11)

Remove air cleaner, guide seal and guide seal retainer from cover, (Fig. 9). housing, using a blunt drift.

Care should be used so as n o t t o scratch bore o f housing, which could cause a vacuum leak.

Disassembling

the

Power Piston

Extreme care should b e used w h e n handling t h e power piston diaphragm and metal parts. T h e dia-

Fig. I 0 4 o w e r

Piston Guide Attaching Screws

Fig.

I I

--Control Piston

Snap

Ring phragm should be kept clean. Grease, o i l and foreign matter can cause a deterioration o f diaphragm. Pro- tect diaphragm f r o m nicks, o r cuts that caused might be by rough surfaces, damaged tools

by dropping piston.

(1)

Remove power piston diaphragm from power piston and lay it aside on a clean shop towel.

(2)

Remove screws that attach plastic guide to plastic power piston, (Fig. 10). Remove guide and place to one side.

(3)

Remove power piston square seal ring, reaction ring insert, reaction ring and reaction plate.

If reac- t i o n plate sticks in power piston, it m a y be removed by pushing o n operating rod.

Do n o t push too far, as damage t o floating valve can result.

(4)

Depress operating rod slightly, then remove truarc snap ring, using snap ring pliers.

(See

Fig.

11).

(5)

Remove control piston by pulling operating rod straight out of power piston.

(6)

Remove piston.

(7)

felt from control piston rod.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Thoroughly wash all metal parts in a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air. The power diaphragm, plastic power piston and guide, should be washed in a mild soap solution and water. Blow dust and cleaning fluid out of all internal passages. All rubber parts should be replaced, regardless of condition. Install new air filters at reassembly. Inspect all parts for scoring, pitting, dents or nicks. Small imperfections can be smoothed out, using crocus cloth. Re- place all parts that are badly scored, nicked or dam-

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KELSEY-HAYES POWER BRAKE

5-23

MASTER CYLINDER

AIR CLEANER PLATE

POWER PISTON SQUARE

/

WIDE

- -

VALVE

RUBBER GROMMET

ASSY.

RETURN SPRING

“0” RING

CONTROL PISTON

ASSEMBLY

REACTION INSERT

RLJMPFR

SCREW

(3)

/ -

GUIDE

REACTION RING INSERT

REACTION PLATE

POWER PISTON

DIAPHRAGM

DUST BOOT

PLA5IIC AIK I - I L l t K

HOUSING LOCK

Fig. 12-Power Brake

Assembly

aged. When reassembling, be sure that all rubber parts are well lubricated with silicone grease, except the diaphragm and the reaction ring.

ASSEMBLING T H E POWER BRAKE

To assemble power brake, refer to (Fig. 12), then proceed as follows:

(1)

Install control piston ring on control piston and lubricate with silicone grease.

(2) Lubricate control piston assembly with silicone grease and insert into power piston. Install truarc snap ring in its groove, using pliers. Refer to (Fig. 11).

Wipe all lubricant off the end of control piston.

(3)

Slide air filter elements and felt seal over push rod and down past retaining shoulder on rod. Install power piston square seal ring in its groove.

(4)

Install reaction plate in power piston, aligning three holes with those in power piston, refer to (Fig.

10).

(5)

Place rubber reaction ring in reaction plate.

not lubricate this ring.

(6)

Lubricate outer diameter of reaction insert with silicone grease and install in reaction ring.

(7)

Install reaction insert bumper into guide

Several small spots of silicone grease will hold bumper in position while guide is being installed into power piston.

(8)

Place guide on power piston, aligning holes with aligning points on power piston. Refer to (Fig. 10).

SPECIAL TOOL

LOCK SEAL

SUPPORT BLOCK

NK505

Fig. 13-Installing the Block Seal in the Housing

NK2

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5-24 B U D D DISC BRAKES

Install retaining screws and tighten from 80 to 100 inch pounds. (Remove any resulting chips.)

(9) Install diaphragm on power piston, making sure that diaphragm is seated in power piston.

ASSEMBLING T H E POWER BRAKE

COMPONENTS

(1)

With housing blocked

to prevent bending, drive block seal into housing, using Tool C3205, Fig. 13.

(2) Install a new cover seal on retainer and lubricate thoroughly inside and out with silicone grease, then install in cover bore. Refer to (Fig. 9). Install a new air filter.

(3) Install check valve in a well lubricated grommet in cover. Refer to (Fig. 5).

(4)

Reinstall engine lifting bracket Tool C3804 and clamp in a vise.

(5) Apply silicone grease to both sides of bead

(outer edge) of power piston diaphragm.

(6)

Insert power piston assembly into housing with operating rod

down.

Refer to (Fig.

8).

(7) Install power piston return spring in flange of guide.

(8)

Place cover over return spring and press down on cover, and at the same time lead guide through seal.

(Be sure scribe lines marked on housing and cover are aligned when parts are locked together.)

(9)

Rotate cover to lock it to housing. Refer to (Fig.

6). Be sure diaphragm i s not pinched during assembly of unit.

(10) Install housing lock on one

long tangs

housing. Refer to (Fig.

5).

The lock will not be satisfactory if installed incorrectly.

If installed on one of short tangs, unit could become unlocked with use.

(1 1)

Remove unit from vise and remove Tool

C3804

lifting fixture.

(12) Install master cylinder push rod and air cleaner plate, then install master cylinder on studs.

Install attaching nuts and washers. Tighten to

200 inch pounds.

INSTALLING T H E POWER BRAKE ON T H E

VEHICLE

(1)

Reinstall dash panel to power brake seal.

(2) Position power brake unit on the dash panel, then install attaching nuts and washers and tighten to

200 inch pounds.

(3) Install bolt that connects power brake push rod with brake pedal linkage. Install nut and tighten to

foot pounds.

(4) Connect vacuum hose to unit and connect hg- draulic brake tube. Tighten securely.

(5) Refill master cylinder reservoir and bleed brakes.

(6)

Readjust stoplight switch if necessary.

(7) Test power brake unit,

(refer to General Infor- mation).

B U D D DISC BRAKES

INDEX

Assembling

Cleaning and Inspection (Caliper)

Cleaning and Inspection (Master

Cylinder) the the

Caliper

........................

Master Cylinder

Brake Shoe Installation

Brake Shoe Removal

...............

.......................

..........................

..............

...................................

Disassembling the Caliper

Page

....................

Disassembling the Master Cylinder

............

General Information

Installing the Braking

Installing the Caliper

Page

...........................

Disc and Hub

..........................

Installing the Master Cylinder

Removing the Braking

Removing the Caliper

Disc and Hub

Removing the Master Cylinder

Service Diagnosis

Specifications

............

.................

............

.........................

.................

.............................

.................................

Condition

EXCESSIVE PEDAL

TRAVEL

DISC BRAKE SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

Possible Cause

(a) Excessive disc runout.

(g)

( h )

Damaged caliper piston seal.

Power brake malfunction.

Correction

(a)

(b)

Check disc for runout with dial dicator. Install new disc.

Check system for leaks. in-

/b)

Air, leak, or insufficient fluid in system or caliper.

(c)

Improper brake fluid (boil).

(d) Rear brake adjustment required.

(e) Warped or excessively tapered shoe

(f) and lining assembly.

Loose wheel bearing adjustment.

(c)

Drain and install correct fluid.

(d) Check and adjust rear brakes.

(e) Install new shoe and linings.

(f)

Readjust wheel bearings to specified torque.

(g) Install new piston seal.

(h)

Check and correct power unit.

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BUDD DISC BRAKES

5-25

Condition

BRAKE ROUGHNESS OR

CHATTER (PEDAL

P U LSATl N

EXCESSIVE PEDAL

EFFORT

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Excessive lateral runout of braking (a) Check disc for lateral runout with disc. dial indicator. Install new disc.

(b) Excessive thickness variation of brak- (b) Check disc for runout with dial ing disc.

(d) Rear brake drums out-of-round. indicator.

(d) Regrind rear drums and check for ou t-of-rou nd

(a) Power brake malfunction.

(a) Check and correct power unit.

(b) Brake fluid, oil or grease on linings.

(b) Install new shoe linings as required.

( in i ng on I y-.030”).

(d) Incorrect lining. (d) Remove lining and install correct

(e) Frozen or seized pistons.

I ining.

(e) Disassemble caliper and free up pistons.

PULL

NOISE

SCRAP1

N G

LEAKY WHEEL

CYLINDER

(a) Brake fluid, oil or grease on linings.

(b) Caliper not in the proper alignment to the braking disc.

(d) Incorrect tire pressure.

(e) Out-of-round rear drums.

(f) Distorted brake shoes.

(g)

(h) Broken rear spring.

(i)

(j)

(k) Restricted hose or line.

( I )

Front end out of alignment.

Rear brake pistons sticking.

Rear brakes out of adjustment.

Unmatched linings.

(a) Install new shoe and linings.

(b) Remove caliper and reinstall. Check alignment.

(d) Inflate tires to recommended pressures.

(e) Regrind rear drums and check.

(f) Install new brake shoes.

(g) Align front end and check.

(h) Install new rear spring.

(i) Free up rear brake pistons.

(j) Adjust rear brakes.

(k) Check hoses and lines and correct as necessary.

(I) Install correct lining.

Groan- Brake noise emanating when slowly releasing brakes (creep-groan)

(a) Not detrimental to function of disc brakes-no corrective action required.

(Indicate to operator this noise may be eliminated by slightly increasing or decreasing brake pedal efforts.)

Rattle- Brake noise or rattle emanating at low speeds on rough roads (front wheels only).

(a) Excessive clearance between the shoe (a) Install new shoe and lining assem- and the caliper. blies.

(b) Shoe anti-rattle spring missing or not (b) Install new anti-rattle spring or posi- properly positioned. tion properly.

FRONT BRAKES HEAT

UP DURING DRIVING

AND FAIL

RELEASE

(b) Braking disc rubbing housing.

(a) Install mounting bolts of correct length.

(b) Reposition caliper housing and check disc run out.

(a) Power brake malfunction.

(b) Sticking pedal linkage.

(a) Check and correct power unit.

(b) Free up sticking pedal linkage.

(d) Disassemble caliper and free up (d) Frozen or seized piston. piston.

(e) Residual pressure valve i n master (e) Remove valve. (See Fig. 15). cylinder.

(a) Damaged or worn caliper piston seal. (a) Disassemble caliper and install new seal.

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5-26

BUDD DISC BRAKES

Condition

GRABBING OR UNEVEN

BRAKING ACTION

BRAKE PEDAL CAN BE

DEPRESSED WITHOUT

BRAKING EFFECT

Possible Cause Correction

Scores or corrosion on surface of (b) cylinder bore.

Disassemble caliper and hone cylinder bore. Install new seal.

(a)

(b)

Power brake malfunction.

Causes listed under “Pull.”

(b)

Check and correct power unit.

Corrections listed under “Pull.”

(a)

Pistons pushed back i n cylinder bores (a) during servicing of caliper (shoe and lining not properly positioned).

(b)

(C)

(d)

Leak in system or caliper. (b)

Damaged piston seal i n one or more (c) of the cylinders.

Air i n hydraulic system or improper (d) bleeding procedure.

Reposition the brake shoe and lining assemblies. Depress pedal a second time and if condition persists, check the following causes:

Check for leak and repair as required.

Disassemble caliper and replace piston seals as required.

Bleed the system.

(e)

(g)

Bleeder screw open.

(h)

Rear brakes out of adjustment.

(e)

Leak past primary cup in master (f) cylinder.

Leak in rear brake cylinder.

(g)

(h)

Close bleeder screw and bleed the entire system.

Recondition the master cylinder.

Hone cylinder bore. Install new piston cylinder cups.

Adjust rear brakes.

GENERAL INFORMATION

The front wheel disc brake shown in (Fig.

consists of a fixed caliper (inner and outer housing) two friction pads (brake lining), bonded to steel shoes, four pistons, piston return springs, piston seals, dust boots and retainers. The brake disc is made from high grade cast iron and has a series of air vent louvres to provide cooling f o r the brake assembly. The splash shield has a series of stamped vents so designed as to supply additional air for cooling.

The brake disc is mounted on the front wheel hub by five bolts and i s straddled by the caliper which is attached to the steering knuckle and steering knuckle arm by two bolts. The caliper assembly i s composed of

INNER CALIPER HOUSING

/SPLASH

/OUTER CALIPER HOUSING

BLEED SCREW

BRAKE I

PISTON INSULATOR

PISTON

f ~ ~ ~ P ~ ~ : ~ l O N

GUIDE

PISTON

COOLING

Lot

‘ON

ANTI-RATTLE SPRING fOUT OF POSITION

)

Fig.

I-Disc

Brake Assembly (Cut-Away V i e w )

NN23A

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BUDD DISC BRAKES 5-27

Fig. 2-Disc Brake Assembly

PISTON SEAL

LINING

ASSEMBLY

Fig. %Disc Brake Piston and Shoe and Lining

Assembly

two housings. In each housing, there are two cylinder bores each containing a piston, piston seal, piston return spring; protected by a dust boot and retainer.

Attached to the outer end of the piston is a heat resistant pad which contacts the shoe and acts as a heat insulator. Inserted between the pistons and the disc is the segmented lining and shoe assembly which are held in position by the brake shoe anti-rattle spring (Fig. 2).

Operation

the brake pedal is depressed, the hydraulic pressure exerted in the system loads the pistons; clamping the disc between the brake shoe pads with equal and opposite force. When the brake pedal is released, the hydraulic pressure is reduced and the pistons relax. The compressed piston return spring

Fig. 4-Piston Compression

Tool

lnstalled

positions the brake shoes lightly against the disc, ready for the next application.

The disc brake, having small friction segments operates on a small area of the braking disc surface, leaving a large proportion of the disc exposed to the atmosphere which allows a maximum dissipation of heat. The disc brake provides consistent performance even on frequent stops from high speed (Fig.

The disc brake automatically compensates for normal wear, since the brake shoe lining brushes lightly against the disc when the brakes are not in use. Thus no adjustments are required. However, periodical inspection should be made to insure that the lining does not wear too thin. The shoes and lining should be replaced when the groove is no longer visible on the lining pad, or

.030

inch. The rate and type of wear will vary considerably with driving conditions.

The pistons in the caliper assembly are of large capacity and as the pistons move out to compensate for lining wear, the fluid level in the master cylinder falls. The fluid level in the master cylinder should be checked at regular intervals (Fig.

15).

The master cylinder is of the dual reservoir type to compensate for the greater volume

brake fluid used in the system (Fig.

15).

wheels are used on disc brake equipped vehicles.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

BRAKE SHOE REMOVAL

refer to (Fig.

and proceed as follows:

(1)

Raise car on hoist or jackstands.

Removing

the

Lining

(2) Remove wheel covers and wheel and

To remove the disc brake shoe and lining assembly, assemblies. tire

MyMopar.com

5-28 BUDD DISC BRAKES

R CALIPER HOUSING

CROSSOVER

SEAL

PISTON RETU

DUST BOOT RETAINER SPRING

BRAKE SHOE AND LINING

ANTI-RATTLE SPRING

BRAKE

SHOE AND LINING

DUST BOOT RETAINER SPRING

PISTON INSULATOR PAD

PISTON SEAL

PISTON RETURN SPRING

LEEDER

SCREW

INNER

CALIPER

HOUSING

NN26

Fig.

5 4 i s c

(3)

Remove the brake shoe anti-rattle spring.

(4)

Remove the bolts that attach the caliper assembly to the steering knuckle and steering knuckle arm.

(5)

Remove caliper from the disc by slowly sliding the caliper assembly up and away from the braking disc.

(6) Carefully remove the brake shoe and lining assembly, (one at a time through the top opening).

(7)

Insert piston compression Tool C-3992 between the piston insulator pads and turn knob on tool until pistons are fully compressed. (Fig. 4.)

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Check for piston seal leaks (evident by fluid moisture around the cavity) and for any ruptures of the piston boot. Wipe the cavity clean (between the inner and outer caliper housings) with a shop towel. Check piston boot for proper seating in the piston groove and under the coiled retainer in the caliper groove.

(Fig. 12.) If fluid moisture is evident, it will be necessary to disassemble the caliper assembly and install new piston seals and boots. (Refer to “Disassembling the Caliper” Paragraph.)

BRAKE SHOE INSTALLATION

To install the disc brake shoe and lining assemblies refer to (Fig. 1) and proceed as follows:

(1) Slide the disc brake shoe and lining assemblies into position in the caliper assembly (one at a time).

(2) Position the shoes, then install Tool C-3992 between the shoes. Adjust tool so that it holds the shoes apart but is not exerting a large force against the lining surface so that the tool will slip easily when contacted by the disc.

(3) Slide the caliper assembly down into position over the brake disc and align the mounting holes. (As the caliper is being lowered, the disc will force the tool out of the caliper.)

(4) Install the caliper mounting bolts and tighten from

foot-pounds.

(5)

Install wheel and tire assemblies and wheel covers.

(6)

Remove jackstands or lower hoist.

CAUTION: Road test the vehicle and make several heavy 40 m.p.h. stops to wear off any foreign material on the brakes and to seat the units. The vehicle may pull to one side or the other if this is not done.

REMOVING THE CALIPER

Should it become necessary to remove the caliper for the installation of new parts, proceed as follows:

(1) Raise car on hoist or jackstands.

(2) Remove wheel covers, wheel and tire assemblies and anti-rattle springs. Disconnect the brake line at the caliper housing and install a 96-24 plug.

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BUDD DISC BRAKES 5-29

y r

/DUST BOOT

URN SPRING

Fig. 6-Removing the Piston Dust Boot Retainer

Spring

(3) Remove the bolts that attach the caliper assembly to the steering knuckle and steering knuckle arm. the caliper assembly up and away from the braking disc.

(5)

Remove the lining pads. Insert piston compression Tool C-3992 between the piston insulator pads and turn knob on tool until pistons are fully compressed. (Fig.

4.)

DISASSEMBLING THE CALIPER

To disassemble the caliper refer to (Fig.

then proceed as follows:

(1) Drain the caliper, then place the caliper assembly in a vise. Remove the piston compression Tool

C-3992 and the four bolts that hold the two halves of the caliper together.

(2) Separate the halves and remove the two crossover seals.

(3) Using a small screwdriver, pry out the exposed end of the piston dust boot retainer spring and uncoil from its groove to release the dust boot (Fig.

6).

(4)

Using the same screwdriver, carefully work the dust boot out of the groove (Fig.

7).

Be sure and hold the piston compressed during this operation.

(5)

Remove the piston, piston seal and dust boot

Fig. 8-Removing o r

Installing Piston and Piston

Return Spring

from the caliper (Fig

8).

Remove the piston return spring.

(6)

Remove the piston dust boot by grasping edge and pulling out of its groove (Fig. 9).

(7)

Using the fingers, roll the piston seal out of its groove in the piston. (Fig.

10).

Discard the seal.

(8)

Remove the remaining three pistons in the same manner.

(9) Remove the bleeder screw from the inner caliper housing.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Clean all parts in alcohol; wipe dry, using clean lint free shop towels. Using an air hose, blow out the drilled passages and bores. Check the dust boots for punctures or tears. If punctures or tears are evident, new boots should be installed at reassembly. Inspect the piston bores in both housings for scoring or pitting. Bores that show light scratches or corrosion, can usually be cleaned with crocus cloth. However, bores that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, using Tool C-3993, providing the diameter of the bore is not increased more than .002 inch. If the bore does not clean up within this specification, a new caliper housing should be installed. (Black stains on the bore walls are caused by the piston seals and will do no harm.)

&PISTON GUIDE

1 1

Fig. 7-Removing the Piston Dust Boot

DUST

BOOT

GROOVE

LI*rL_

PISTON

SEAL

NN30

Fig. 9-Removing the Piston Dust

Boot

MyMopar.com

5-30

BUDD DISC BRAKES

RETAINING RING

NN365

Fig. IO-Removing t h e Piston Seal

W h e n using hone

C-3993

(Fig.

11) be sure a n d install t h e hone b a f f l e before honing bore. T h e b a f f l e i s used t o protect t h e hone stones f r o m damage.

Use extreme care in cleaning t h e caliper after honing. Remove a l l dust and grit by flushing t h e caliper w i t h alcohol; wipe dry w i t h a clean lintless cloth a n d t h e n clean a second t i m e in t h e same manner.

ASSEMBLING THE CALIPER

To reassemble the disc brake caliper, refer to (Fig.

5),

then proceed as follows:

(1)

Clamp the caliper housing in a vise, and coat the cylinder bores with

#55

Dow-Corning Pneumatic

Silicone Grease

(or equivalent) then install the piston return spring. (Be sure the spring is seated in the recess at the bottom of the bore.) (Fig. 8.)

(2) Coat outside diameter and fill inner diameter of a new piston seal with

#55

Dow-Corning Pneumatic

Silicone Grease

(or equivalent) and work over the piston land and down into position in the groove, using the fingers only.

(3) Install dust boot on the piston with the lip of the seat toward the piston pad. (Refer to Fig. 3.)

(4)

Install the piston assembly over the return spring and press down until the piston bottoms in the bore.

(5)

Using a small blunt screwdriver, work the lip of the boot into the groove, around the diameter of the

PISTON BOOT

NN263

Fig. 1 2 4 o r r e c t Boot Installation (Section View) bore (Fig.

7).

Use care

as n o t t o puncture t h e boot during this operation, o r a n e w boot w i l l have t o be installed.

(6)

Install the coil retainer spring by inserting one end in position over the boot in the groove and continue to install around the diameter of the bore until retainer is fully seated.

B e sure that t h e boot i s completely locked in position by t h e retainer and that the retainer is fully seated in t h e groove over the boot.

(Fig.

12).

(7)

Install the remaining pistons in the same manner, then test the pistons for smooth operation in

(8) Lightly clamp

outkr

caliper half in vise and install new crossover passage seals in position in the recess of the caliper mating surface.

(9) Place mating caliper half over the one clamped in vise and install the attaching bolts. Tighten to

foot-pounds

(7/16

inch) and

150

foot-pounds (% inch.)

(10)

Install brake shoes in caliper assembly and insert the piston compression Tool (2-3992 between the lining pads. Turn knob on Tool until pistons are compressed. Adjust Tool so that it will slip easily when contacted by the disc.

(1 1)

Install the bleeder screw and tighten lightly.

Fig. 1 -Honing Piston Bore

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BRAKING DISC

NN262

Fig. 14-Braking Disc and

Hub

(Exploded View)

INSTALLING T H E CALIPER

Before installing the caliper assembly over the brake disc, check the disc for runout. Mount a dial indicator (Fig.

13) and check the lateral runout. Run- out should not exceed .005 inch.

(1)

Install the caliper assembly over the disc and align the mounting holes. Install the mounting bolts and tighten from

70 to 80 foot-pounds.

(As

the caliper is being lowered into place, the disc will force the

Tool out of the caliper.)

(2) Reconnect the brake line at the caliper housing then follow normal bleeding procedure. (Be sure all air bubbles have escaped.) Replenish the brake fluid in the master cylinder.

(3)

Install the wheel and tire assembly and wheel covers.

(4)

Remove jackstands or lower hoist.

CAUTION: Road test the vehicle and make several heavy

M P H stops to wear off any foreign material on the brakes and to seat the units. The vehicle may pull to one side or the other if this i s not done. This condition will be more noticeable if only one brake was serviced.

REMOVING T H E BRAKING DISC A N D H U B

Should it become necessary to remove the braking disc for installation of a wheel stud proceed as follows:

(1)

Remove wheel cover and wheel and tire assembly.

(2) Remove the caliper assembly as described under “Brake Shoe Removal.”

(3) Remove the grease cup, cotter pin, nut lock, nut, thrust washer and outer wheel bearing.

(4)

Pull the disc and hub off the wheel spindle.

Removing t h e Braking Disc from the

Hub

Should it become necessary to remove or install a wheel stud because of damage, refer to (Fig.

14), then proceed as follows:

Using a prick punch, mark both the disc and the hub so that balance will be assured at reassembly.

(1)

Clamp the wheel hub in a vise with the disc

B U D D DISC BRAKES 5-31

attaching bolts facing up.

(2)

Remove the bolts that attach the disc to the hub.

(3) Lift disc from the hub to remove.

(4) Remove damaged stud, using an arbor press.

(5) Install new stud in position and press into place.

INSTALLING T H E BRAKING DISC

T H E H U B

After stud has been installed, wipe hub and disc mating surfaces to remove any loose foreign material and mount the disc on the hub as follows:

(1) Place the disc on the hub in vise and align the bolt holes and prick punch marks.

(2) Install the attaching bolts and tighten from

55-

foot-pounds.

Refacing the Braking Disc

The surface of the disc should be smooth. The light scoring and grooving which appear after normal use are not detrimental to the operation of the brake.

heavily scored disc will impair efficiency and increase the lining pad wear, and should be replaced with a new disc and hub assembly.

DO NOT ATTEMPT

RE-

FACE THE BRAKING DISC DUE TO THE CLOSE

TOLERANCES REQUIRED. THIS

I S IMPORTANT!

INSTALLING T H E BRAKING DISC A N D H U B

(1)

Slide the brake disc and hub assembly on the spindle.

(2)

Install the outer bearing, thrust washer, and nut.

(3) Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 90 inch-pounds while rotating the hub and disc.

(4)

Position the lock nut on the nut with one pair of slots in line with the cotter pin hole.

(5) Back off the adjusting nut and lock assembly one slot then install the cotter pin. The resulting adjustment should be zero (no preload) to .003 inch end play. (This is very important, when checking the disc runout.)

(6)

Install a dial indicator C3339 (Fig. 13) and check the runout of the disc outer surface. The runout shoyld not exceed

.005

inch.

(7)

Clean the grease cap, coating the inside with wheel grease (do not fill) and install the cap.

(8) Install the caliper assembly as described in

“Brake Shoe Installation.”

(9) Install the wheel and tire assembly and the wheel cover.

(10) Remove jackstands or lower hoist.

(11) Road test the vehicle as described in “Install- ing the Caliper.”

REMOVING T H E MASTER CYLINDER

Should it become necessary to remove the master cylinder for repair or overhaul, proceed as follows:

(1)

Remove the nuts that attach the master cylinder to the power brake unit.

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5-32 BUDD DISC BRAKES

BOLT

UPPER RESERVOIR

RETAINER PLATE

NUT

COVER

COVER GASKET

b

CENTER

UPPER RESERVOIR RETAINE

PLATE

UPPER RESERVOIR

RESERVOIR GASKET

BRASS WASHER

PRIMARY c u p / \BRASS WASHER NN32A

Fig. 15-Disc Brake Master Cylinder (Sectional View)

(2)

Disconnect the brake tube at the master cylinder outlet, then plug the hole.

(3) Slide the master cylinder straight out and away from the power brake unit and remove from the vehicle.

DISASSEMBLING THE MASTER CYLINDER

To disassemble the master cylinder, refer to (Figs.

and

16),

(1)

Clean the outside of the master cylinder thoroughly.

(2)

Remove the master cylinder cover retaining nut; remove the cover and gasket, then drain the brake fluid.

(3) Remove the piston retainer attaching screw and remove the piston assembly.

I t should be noted at this time, that the check valve usually located in the master cylinder bore i s not used.

The residual check valve (Fig. 17) is located in the brake line, after the brake line tee. There is no hydraulic pressure to the disc brake caliper when the brakes are not applied, because the fluid source at the master cylinder by-passes the residual check valve.

(4)

Remove the brass washer between the piston and the cup. Remove the primary cup and spring.

(5)

Using a wrench, loosen and remove the center stud and lift off the upper reservoir and gasket. Re- move the plate from inside the reservoir.

Cleaning and Inspection

Clean the master cylinder reservoir and main body, using a suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Wash the master cylinder bore with clean brake fluid and inspect for scoring or pitting.

If the master cylinder piston is badly scored, or corroded, replace it with a new one. The primary and secondary cups should be replaced with recondition-

Fig. 16-Master Cylinder (Exploded View)

ing the master cylinder.

Master cylinder walls that have light scratches or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned up with crocus cloth. However, cylinders that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, providing the diameter of the cylinder bore is not increased more than

.002 .002

inch should be discarded and a new master cylinder installed. (Black stains on the cylinder wall are caused by the piston cups and will do no harm.)

Use extreme care in cleaning the master cylinder after reconditioning. Remove all dust or grit by flushing the cylinder bore with alcohol; wipe dry with a clean lintless cloth and clean a second time with alcohol. Dry the master cylinder bore with compressed air then flush with clean brake fluid. (Be sure the .028 inch diameter hole compensator port in the master cylinder bore is open.)

ASSEMBLING THE MASTER CYLINDER

Before assembling, the piston and cups should be dipped in clean brake fluid. To reassemble the master

Fig. 17-Residual Pressure Check Valve

NN48

MyMopar.com

+ cylinder, follows: refer to (Figs. 15 and 16) then proceed as

(1)

Install the piston return spring in the cylinder bore with the closed end outward.

(2) Install the primary cup in the cylinder bore with the open end of the cup over the closed end of the return spring.

(3)

Install the secondary cup on the master cylinder piston and install the piston assembly in the bore with the flat brass washer between the piston and the primary cup.

(4)

Install the piston retainer and screw to retain the piston assembly.

( 5 )

Place the reservoir gasket in position on the lower reservoir, then install the retaining plate in the upper reservoir.

(6) Place the upper reservoir in position on the reservoir gasket then install the center stud. Tighten to 50 inch-pounds. (Be sure the upper reservoir is centered on the lower casting.)

INSTALLING THE MASTER CYLINDER

(1) Slide the master cylinder over the mounting

BUDD DISC BRAKES 5-33

studs on the power brake unit, being sure the brake push rod engages the piston. Install the attaching nuts and tighten to 200 inch-pounds.

(2) Attach the brake line to master cylinder and tighten securely.

(3)

Refill the master cylinder reservoirs and bleed the brakes as described previously.

(4)

Install the reservoir cover and gasket. Install the attaching nut and tighten snugly.

Balancing the Front Wheels (Disc Brake

Equipped Vehicles)

To balance the front wheels on a disc brake equipped vehicle, the normal procedure for static balancing as described under “Wheel Balance” in the Wheels,

Bearings and Tires Section of this manual should be followed. Dynamic balancing of the front wheels can be accomplished by the normal procedure when the wheels are removed from the vehicle, but the Manu- facturer’s recommendations should be followed closely when attempting to balance the wheels while on the vehicle.

MyMopar.com

5-34

U

D D D I

SC B RAKE-S PEC

I Fl

CAT1 0

N S

BUDD DISC BRAKE SPEClFiCATlONS

Type of Brake

Location

Inside

Disc Thickness

..............................................

...................................................

Master Cylinder Reservoir

Residual Valve Location

Brake Adjustment

Diameter Outside

...........................................

CALIPER ASSEMBLY

Shoe and Lining Removal

Number of Pistons

Piston Diameter

....................................

..........................................

Piston Bore Diameter

Maximum Allowable (After Honing)

Piston Seals

Dust Boot Retainers

Piston Return Springs

Bleeder Screw Location

Cross Over Passage Seals

....................................

.....................................

............................................

........................................

........................

..............................................

Piston Dust Boots

..........................................

.........................................

......................................

.....................................

....................................

BRAKING DISC

Type

......................................................

............................................

Disc Runout (Max. Allowable)

Disc Surface Finish

................................

..........................................

..............................................

Minimum Thickness Allowable for wear before replacement..

Disc thickness variation not to exceed

.ooo5"

at any diameter.

Disc Mounting (To Hub)

.....................................

BRAKE SHOE AND LINING

Type

.......................................................

Thickness

Width

Length

..................................................

......................................................

.....................................................

Braking Area (Per Shoe)

Maximurnwear Limit

.....................................

........................................

BRAKING DISC HUB

Type

.......................................................

MASTER CYLINDER

Piston Bore Diameter

.......................................

Maximum Allowable (After Honing)

Residual Pressure Valve

........................

.....................................

DISC SPLASH SHIELD

Type

.......................................................

Mounting

...................................................

WHEELS

Type

.....................................................

Diameter

.................................................

Rear Brake Specifications (Budd Disc Brake Equipped Vehicles)

BRAKES: Type

..............................................

Drum Diameter

Number of Shoes

Width

.............................................

Length-Rear Primary

Rear Secondary

Thickness

....................................

Lining Type

.................................

................................................

.......................................

..........................................

Fixed Caliper Disc

Front Wheels Only

Vertical Dual

On Rear Brake Line

None (Automatic)

From either top or Bottom (Caliper Removed)

4 (Each Assembly)

2.36812.369"

2.3741 2.376"

.002"

Moulded Rubber

Per Piston)

External Moulded Rubber

Flat Coiled Steel

Per Piston)

Per Piston

On Inner Housing

Rubber (2 Per Caliber)

Ventilated Cast Iron

7.2317.25"

.005"

.8725/.8775"

.812"

Bolts

Organic Lining

Yz''

Approx.

Sq. Inches

Not less than

1/32"

Malleable Cast Iron

1%"

.002"

None

O.S.

Vented Stamped Steel

Drop Center

x 6K

Duo-Servo Single Anchor

11"

2Y2"

Bonded Moulded Asbestos

9V4"

12%"

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

Caliper Mounting Bolts

Caliper Assembly Bolt

7116"

.................................

FOOT-POUNDS

......................................

70-80

%Ir

Braking Disc to Hub Bolts

Spash Shield Bolts

..................................

140-160

...................................

..........................................

50-60

(Very Important)

MyMopar.com

SPEC1

Fl CAT1 ONS 5-35

SPECIFICATIONS

Brakes

TYPE

...................................................................

DRUM DIAMETER

.......................................................

(Police & Heavy Duty)

.................................................

NUMBER

BRAKE SHOES

.............................................

WIDTH

Front

Rear

.................................................................

(Police & Heavy Duty)

Front

Rear

..............................................................

...............................................................

Station Wagon (Front)

Station Wagon (Rear)

BRAKE LINING

..............................................

............................................

.:. .

Lengths

Front Primary

Front Secondary

Rear Primary

Rear Secondary

(Police

& Heavy

Front Primary

........................................................

Front Secondary

Rear Primary

.........................................................

........................................................

......................................................

.........................................................

......................................................

Duty)

......................................................

.........................................................

Rear Secondary

Thickness

(all)

.......................................................

........................................................

WHEEL CYLINDER

Front Wheel Cylinder Bore

Rear Wheel Cylinder Bore

............................................

..............................................

Rear Wheel Cylinder Bore (Disc Brake Equipped Vehicles)

...............

MASTER CYLINDER BORE

Disc Brake Equipped Vehicles

Standard Vehicles

..........................................

....................................................

Duo-Servo Single Anchor

in.

3 in.

in.

21/2

in.

Bonded Moulded Asbestos

in.

12%

in.

91/4

in.

12%

in.

9V4

in.

12%

in.

12%

in.

15/16

in.

748

in.

1Vi

in.

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G R O U P

CLUTCH

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

CLUTCH HOUSING ALIGNMENT

CLUTCH PEDAL FREE PLAY

Page

. . . . . . . .

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Page

. . . . . .

GENERAL INFORMATION

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

. . . . . . . . . . . .

1 SERVICE PROCEDURES

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1 CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING

CLUTCH RELEASE FORK

. . . . . . . . . . . .

5 SPECIFICATIONS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5 TIGHTENING REFERENCE

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8 CRANKSHAFT TRANSMISSION DRIVE TORQUE SHAFT AND BEARINGS

. . . . . . . .

6 PINION BUSHING

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

STEAM CLEANING PRECAUTIONS

. . . . . . .

7 GENERAL INFORMATION

The semi-centrifugal, single dry disc clutch (Fig.

1) combines the feature of low pedal effort with that of a clutch capable of transmitting the full torque of the engine.

Six cylindrical rollers, located in the pressure plate, are free to move outward under centrifugal force until they contact the cover.

the engine speed increases, the rollers act as wedges between the cover and the pressure plate. The faster the clutch revolves, the greater the pressure on the plate. The greater pressure increases the normal load on the disc assembly.

The standard and special equipment clutch size used on all models is

10Y2

inches.

No adjustment should be attempted on the three pressure plate release levers. The three levers are pre-set during manufacture and should never be disturbed.

The clutch pedal is connected to the torque shaft through a vertically positioned rod (Fig.

2). A

non- adjustable over-center spring is provided between the pedal and the pedal bracket to allow easy clutch pedal operation.

The upper end of the clutch pedal pivots in the pedal bracket on two needle bearings. These bearings do not require periodic lubrication.

Condition

CLUTCH CHATTER

CLUTCH SLIPPING

DIFFICULT GEAR

SHIFTING

CLUTCH NOISY

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible

Cause

(a) Worn or damaged disc assembly.

(b) Grease or oil on disc facings.

Correction

(a) Replace disc assembly.

(b)

Replace disc assembly.

(a) Burned, worn, or oil soaked facings.

(b)

Insufficient pedal free play.

(a) Excessive pedal free play.

(b) Worn or damaged disc assembly.

(d)

Clutch disc splines sticking.

(a) Replace disc assembly.

(b) Adjust release fork rod.

(a) Adjust release fork rod.

(b) Replace disc assembly.

(d) Remove disc assembly and free up splines or replace disc.

(a) Dry clutch linkage.

(b)

Worn release bearing.

(d)

Worn release levers.

(e) Worn or dry pilot bushing.

(f)

Dry contact-pressure plate lugs cover.

(a) Lubricate where necessary.

(b) Replace release bearing.

(d)

Replace clutch assembly.

(e) Lubricate or replace bushing. in

(f)

Lubricate very lightly.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

CLUTCH PEDAL FREE PLAY

The only adjustment required for the clutch is the pedal linkage adjustment to provide the prescribed clutch pedal free play. This is the pedal movement rewired to close the clearance between the release bearing and the clutch release levers when releasing the clutch. The adjustment is necessary to restore pedal free play reduced by normal clutch wear.

MyMopar.com

6-2 CLUTCH

NY7OA

Fig. 1 -Semi-Centrifugal Clutch

Adjusting Clutch Pedal Free Play

(1)

Inspect condition of clutch pedal rubber stop

(Fig. 2). If the stop is damaged, install a new one.

(2)

On models using A-745 transmission, first disconnect interlock clutch rod at transmission end.

(3) Adjust linkage by turning the self-locking nut

(Fig. 3) to provide 5/32 inch free movement at outer end of fork. This movement will provide the prescribed one-inch free play at the pedal (Fig.

2).

(4) Assemble interlock clutch rod, if used, to transmission pawl. If necessary to adjust, refer to

“Transmission,” Group 21.

CLUTCH

Improper operation or excessive wear may impair the clutch function to a point where it may be necessary to remove and replace the disc and/or clutch assembly. Should this become necessary, proceed as follows.

Removal

(1)

Remove transmission. See “Manual Transmis- sion” Group 21 for detailed procedure.

(2) Remove clutch housing pan.

(3) Disconnect clutch linkage and return spring at clutch release fork (Fig. 3).

(4)

Remove clutch release bearing and sleeve assembly from clutch release fork (Fig.

4).

(5) Mark clutch cover and flywheel (Fig.

5 )

to maintain their same relative positions during installation of clutch assembly. r\.*\

WITH MANUAL BRAKE

Fig. 2-Clutch Pedal and Linkage

NK552A

bolts, one or two turns at a time, in succession, to avoid bending the cover flange.

(7)

Remove clutch assembly and disc from clutch housing.

CAUTION:

Handle clutch and disc carefully to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces.

Cleaning and lnspection

(1)

Use compressed air to clean dust out of the clutch housing. Inspect for leakage through the engine rear main bearing oil seal. If leakage is noted, should be corrected at this time. it

(2) The friction face of flywheel should have a uniform appearance throughout the entire clutch contact area.

If there is evidence of heavy contact on one

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CLUTCH

6-3

STUD

WASHER

LATOK

RETURN SPRING

FORK

NK553A

Fig. 3-Clutch Torque Shaft and Linkage

portion of the wear circle and a very light contact

180"

from that portion, the flywheel may be improperly mounted or sprung. In such cases, a dial indicator, mounted on clutch housing with plunger in contact with the wear circle, should show

no more

than

.003

inch runout throughout a complete rotation of flywheel.

(3)

The friction face of the flywheel should also be free from discolored, burned areas, small cracks and excessive grooves or ridges.

(4)

The bushing in end of crankshaft should be smooth and show no excessive wear.

new transmission main drive pinion or

C-3181

Bushing Installing and Burnishing Tool, can be used to gauge the size of the bushing. The tool should have a snug fit in bushing.

If necessary to replace the bushing, proceed as detailed under "Crankshaft Transmission Drive Pinion

Bushing," page 5.

(5)

The end of the transmission main drive pinion should be smooth and bright, without grooves and ridges.

RETURN SPRING AND

SLEEVE

RETAINING SPRING' CLUTCH HOUSING'

NN95

Fig. 4-Clutch Release Fork, Bearing and Sleeve

.IG FLYWHEEL

NK142

Fig. 5-Punch Marks on Clutch Cover and Flywheel

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6-4 CLUTCH

(6) The disc assembly should be handled without touching the facings. Replace disc if facings show evidence of grease or oil soakage, or wear to within less than

1/32

inch of the rivet heads. The hub splines and splines on transmission main drive pinion should be a snug fit without signs of excessive wear. The metallic portions of the assembly should be dry and clean and should show no evidence of having been hot. Each of the arched springs between facings should be unbroken and all rivets should be tight.

(7)

Wipe friction surface of pressure plate with kerosene, mineral spirits or other similar solvent.

(8) Using a surface plate, test cover for flatness. All sections around attaching bolt holes should be in contact with surface plate within

.015

inch.

The cover should be a snug fit on the pressure plate lugs, in the marked location.

The pressure plate friction area should be flat within

.005

inch and should be free from discolored, burned areas, cracks, grooves or ridges.

(9)

Inner ends of release levers should have a uniform wear pattern.

If the clutch assembly does not meet these quirements, it should be replaced.

(10) Examine condition of clutch release bearing. re-

CAUTION: The clutch release bearing is a prelubricated sealed thrust bearing and should not be im- mersed in solvent.

The bearing should turn freely, when held in the hands, under light thrust load, with no evidence of roughness.

(11)

If bearing is noisy, rough or dry, install a new one on the sleeve

Bearing,” page

as detailed under “Clutch Release installation

(1)

Lubricate drive pinion bushing in end of crankshaft with about a half teaspoon of special long-life

= 1

OLD BEARING

RELEASE BEARING SLEEVE

-t

Fig. 7-Installing Clutch Release Bearing on Sleeve

chassis grease or Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Num- ber

2525035.

Place the lubricant in the radius at the back of the bushing.

(2)

Clean the surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate thoroughly, with fine sandpaper or crocus cloth, making certain that all oil or grease has been removed.

(3)

Hold clutch disc, pressure plate and cover in mounting position, with the springs on the disc damper facing away from the flywheel.

Do

not touch disc facing, as clutch chatter may result. Insert C-360

Clutch Disc Aligning Tool through hub of disc and into the bushing (Fig. 6).

Tool C-360 i s not available, use a spare transmission drive pinion.

(4)

Insert clutch cover attaching bolts (after aligning balance punch marks) but do not draw down

(Fig.

5).

(5) To avoid distortion of the clutch cover, the bolts should be tightened a few turns at a time (alternately) until they are all tight. Tighten bolts to 30 foot- pounds. Remove Tool C-360 (on drive and pinion if used).

(6)

Fill cavity of bearing sleeve with Multi-Mileage

Lubricant, Part Number

2525035, or

Automotive

Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI grade

Also, apply a film of this same lubricant to the lugs of the sleeve.

Fig. 6-Clutch Disc Aligning Arbor

housing as far forward as it will go.

(8)

Lubricate release fork fingers and retaining spring, at the pivot contact area, with a film of

Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number

2525035,

Automotive Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI grade

(Fig.

4).

(9)

Engage release fork fingers under clutch sleeve retaining springs.

Be sure retaining springs on sleeve have lateral freedom

(Fig.

4).

(10)

Be sure groove in dust seal is engaged on seal opening flange in clutch housing.

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(11)

Assemble end of clutch release rod in the fork

(Fig.

3).

(12)

Install release fork return spring.

CAUTION: When installing transmission, do not lubricate splines or pilot end of transmission drive pinion. These areas must be kept dry.

(13)

Install

C-730

Pilot Studs in clutch housing and install transmission as detailed in “Transmission In- stallation,” Group

21.

(14)

Adjust clutch linkage as detailed under “Ad- justing Clutch Pedal Free Play,” page

CRANKSHAFT TRANSMISSION DRIVE

PINION BUSHING

See Paragraph “Clutch Cleaning and Inspection,” page

before testing the size of the pilot bushing.

Removal

(1)

Position outer portion of

(2-3185

Bushing Re- mover Tool in contact with the button on the end of the center screw.

(2)

Thread outer portion of tool tightly into bushing.

(3)

Turn center screw in through the outer portion to remove bushing.

lnstallation

(1)

Soak a new bushing in engine oil prior to installation.

(2) Remove nut and cup from C-3181 Installing and

Burnishing Tool.

(3)

Place the new bushing on the tool shaft and drive bushing flush with the end of the crankshaft.

Use a

I-

- -

- - - - - - - - - -

(4)

To remove i nstaller, install cup and nut. As nut is tightened, tool

(5)

Insert

‘/2 te laspoon of special long-life chassis grease or Multi- Mileage Lubricant, Part Number

2525035,

ahead of the bushing.

Removal

(1)

Disconnect clutch fork return spring (Fig.

4).

(2)

Disconnect clutch release rod from clutch fork

(Fig.

3).

(3)

Pry dust seal out of clutch housing and remove from clutch fork (Fig. 4).

(4)

Grasp outer end of clutch fork and pull fork out and free of retaining springs and off knife edge pivot

(Fig.

4).

The clutch fork has a riveted flat retaining spring that i s engaged in a hole of the pivot. The clutch release fork pivot is an

“L” shaped bracket bolted inside the clutch housing.

(5)

Remove clutch fork from clutch housing.

lnstallation

(1)

Apply Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number

2525035

or Automotive Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI

CLUTCH 6-5

grade

to the pivot edge and hole of pivot (Fig.

4).

(2)

Lubricate contact areas at end of clutch fork with Multi-Mileage Lubricant or Automotive Multi-

Purpose Grease, NLGI grade

(3)

Install clutch release fork in housing, being careful to engage the flat retaining spring in the hole of the pivot and under the retaining springs of the bearing sleeve.

(4)

Install dust seal over release fork and engage the groove of the seal in the clutch housing.

(5)

Attach clutch release rod and install return spring.

(6)

Adjust clutch linkage as described under “Ad- justing Clutch Pedal Free Play,” page

CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Removed from

Clutch)

Removal

(1)

Examine condition of bearing. If noisy, rough or dry, under light thrust load, remove bearing from sleeve.

(2)

Support bearing in a vise or press and carefully press out sleeve.

(3)

Clean sleeve in solvent and remove all old lubricant.

Assembly

CAUTION: Exercise care when installing a new clutch release bearing to avoid damaging the bearing race.

Never drive the bearing on the sleeve with a hammer.

Use either of the following two methods.

Vise Method

(1)

Position new bearing on sleeve and place old bearing against face of new-bearing.

(2)

Support parts in a vise and ca .refully press new bearing on sleeve (Fig.

7).

Make c

:ertain bearing i s seated on shoulder of bearing sleevc

Rotate bearings as they are pressed together.

Press Method

(1)

Support sleeve on press bed.

(2)

Position new bearing on slee !ve and place old bearing on new one. with old bearing and apply sufficient pressure to

seat new bearing on shoulder of sleeve. Rotate bearings as they are pressed together.

Lubrication

(1)

Fill cavity of bearing sleeve with Multi-Mileage

Lubricant, Part Number

2525035,

or Automotive

Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI, grade

(2)

Also, apply a film of the same lubricant to the fork lugs of the sleeve.

(3)

Apply a film of Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part

Number

2525035,

or Automotive Multi-Purpose

Grease, NLGI Grade

to pivot contact area of fork retaining spring.

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6-6 CLUTCH

lnstallation

(1)

Install bearing and sleeve into position, engag ing the fork under the sleeve springs (Fig. 4).

Be sure springs have lateral freedom.

CAUTION: When installing transmission, do not lubricate splines or pilot end of transmission drive pinion. These areas must be kept dry.

(2) Install (2-730 Pilot Studs in clutch housing and install transmission as detailed in “Transmission In- stallation,” Group 21.

(3)

Adjust clutch linkage as detailed under “Ad- justing Clutch Pedal

Free

Play,” page 2.

TORQUE SHAFT AND BEARINGS

Removal

(1) Remove pedal rod spring washer and pedal rod from torque shaft lever (Fig. 3).

(2) Remove clutch fork return spring (Fig. 4).

(3) Remove spring washer and clutch release fork rod from torque shaft lever (Fig. 3).

(4) Remove torque shaft stud nut and washer at the frame end.

(5) Remove torque shaft stud from clutch housing.

(6)

Lift frame end of torque shaft to free stud from the slotted bracket.

(7) Remove torque shaft assembly from vehicle.

Cleaning and

Inspection

(1)

Clean all parts in kerosene, mineral spirits or other suitable solvent. Remove all grease from inside of the torque shaft.

(2) The two ball studs should be bright and without scratches, ridges or other surface imperfections.

(3) The inner surfaces of the bearings should also be smooth, without surface scratches or embedded foreign material. The wear pattern should be uniform over the entire surface.

(4) Replace worn o r cracked rubber seals.

TOOL

NE131

Fig. 8-Measuring Clutch Housing Bore Runout

REAR FACE OF

ENGINE BLOCK

KR5

Fig. 9-Offset Dowel Diagram

lnstallation

(1) Install new seals on ball studs (Fig. 3).

(2) Coat counterbored ends of torque shaft, torque shaft bearings and ball studs with Multi-Mileage

Lubricant, Part Number 2525035, or Automotive

Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI grade 2.

(3) Install ball stud in clutch housing (Fig.

and tighten to 40 foot-pounds.

(4) Install the bearings on frame end ball stud and force the bearings into the torque shaft far enough to install the snap ring (Fig. 3).

(5) Install the bearings on engine side ball stud and force torque shaft over bearings.

(6)

Position frame end torque shaft ball stud in slotted bracket (Fig. 3).

(7) Install frame end ball stud nut and washer, and tighten securely.

(8)

Install clutch release rod in end of fork (Fig. 3).

(9) Connect opposite end of release rod to torque shaft and secure with spring washer.

(10) Connect pedal rod to torque shaft and secure with spring washer (Fig. 3).

(11) Install fork return spring.

(12) Adjust clutch linkage as detailed on page 2.

CLUTCH HOUSING ALIGNMENT

When performing adjustments or repairs that in- volve removing the clutch housing, it will be necessary to align the face of the housing parallel with that of the block when assembling.

Bore

Runout

(1)

Mount C-870 Aligning Bar Tool with C-435 Dial

Indicator on flywheel (Fig.

8).

(2) With C-771 Flywheel Turning Tool, turn the flywheel while noting dial indicator needle deflection.

Out-of-round of bore must not exceed

.008

imum total indicator reading.

If bore runout is in excess of

.008

cator reading, proceed with correction as follows:

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CLUTCH 6-7

NE130

Fig. IO-Measuring Clutch Housing Face Runout

To illustrate the recommended correction procedure, assume that the total indicator reading is

.020

inch, in a direction which approximates

o’clock on engine block (Fig. 9).

In this case, the housing is off crankshaft centerline

.010

inch (one-half total indicator reading) which is

.006

inch greater than the allowable limit of

.004

inch (one-half total indicator reading).

In the case under consideration, use of the

.007

inch offset dowels (pair) will bring runout well within the allowable limits of

.008

inch or

.008

inch minus

.007

inch (offset dowels) which equals

.001

inch runout. Dowels must be used in pairs

(same part number).

(3)

Install the dowel pins (pair), remove clutch housing, after disconnecting and removing the starting motor. Remove dowel pins from the engine block.

Select eccentric dowels (pair) which are available with the following amount of offset:

.007”

(No.

1736347), .014” (No. 1736348), .021”

(No.

1736353).

The amount of eccentricity of the dowel will produce a total indicator reading change of double the dowel eccentricity, therefore, select a pair of dowels with the nearest to one-half of the total indicator runout of the bore. For runout (total indicator reading) of

.012”

through

.020”,

use a

.007”

dowel (No.

1736347), .022”

through

.034”,

use

.014”

dowel (No.

1736348),

and

.036”

through

.052”,

use

.021”

dowel

(No.

1736353).

(4)

Install both dowels with the slots parallel and aligned in the direction to correct the bore runout.

(Slot indicates the direction of maximum dowel eccentricity.) Both dowels must be inserted into the engine block, up to the off-set shoulder.

(5)

Install and tighten clutch housing bolts to

foot-pounds. Remount dial indicator and re-measure bore runout. Small corrections can be made by removing the clutch housing (if necessary) and turning the dowels with a screwdriver to shift the housing and bring the bore within limits.

Face Runout

(1)

Relocate the Dial Indicator (Fig.

10)

and rotate the flywheel, using Tool

C-771.

If total indicator reading is greater than

.006

inch, note the amount of total indicator reading and the location of the lowest indicator reading (i.e., the point where the indicator arm or follower is extended the furthest).

(2)

To correct excessive runout, place proper thickness shim stock between the clutch housing and the engine block or between the transmission and the clutch housing. After re-measuring face runout, tighten housing bolts to

foot-pounds.

(3)

Install clutch release bearing, fork, linkage and transmission. Adjust clutch linkage.

STEAM CLEANING PRECAUTIONS

Since the clutch housing has provisions for ventilation, condensation from steam vapors tend to accumulate on the internal clutch mechanism when the vehicle is steam cleaned. The facings of the disc will absorb moisture, and the force exerted by the pressure plate will bond the facings to the flywheel and/ or the pressure plate, if the car is allowed to stand for some time before use. If this condition occurs, it will necessitate replacement of the disc assembly, flywheel and/or clutch assembly.

Immediately after the cleaning operation, start engine and ”slip the clutch“ in order to dry off the disc assembly, pressure plate, and/or flywheel.

SPEC I FI CAT1

CLUTCH

Make

.................................................................

Model

Type

Engine

................................................................

.................................................................

Sizes

..........................................................

Borg

Beck

1647

Single Dry

383

Disc cu. in.

(standard)

426

cu. in. (spec. equip.)

CLUTCH DISC

Facing Type

Outside Diameter

Thickness

..........................................................

Disc Springs Color

.....................................................

............................................................

Disc

Springs (number)

.................................................

....................................................

Moulded Woven Asbestos

101h

”

.135“

5Green 5Tan

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u-u

CLUTCH COVER

Pressure Springs (number)

Spring Color

.............................................

..........................................................

Pedal Free Play (at fork end)

...........................................

6White 6Tan

5/32"

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

CLUTCH FOOT INCH

Clutch Housing to Engine Bolts

Clutch Cover to Flywheel Bolts

........

POUNDS

. . . . . . . . .

Clutch Pan Bolts

.....................

Clutch Fork Pivot Bolts

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

100

200

FOOT INCH

Flywheel Screws

POUNDS

.....................

Transmission to Clutch Housing Bolts

Torque Shaft Stud

. .

....................

MyMopar.com

GROUP

COOLING SYSTEM

GENERAL INFORMATION

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

CONTENTS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Page

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1 SERVICE PROCEDURES

1

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3 S P EC

F I CAT1 0 N S

......................

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

Page

1 0

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

10 GENERAL INFORMATION

In order to provide satisfactory protection for the wide variety of corporation models the cooling system

of

each must be tailored to specific needs. To do this effectively the Corporation offers three basic systems:

(1) Standard

(2)

Air Conditioning

(3)

High Capacity

The standard system consists of a tube and spacer type radiator, 14 psi radiator pressure cap, centrifugal water pump, 180°F. thermostat, and a four or seven blade fan (Fig. 1).

The cooling system for air conditioned, clean air package equipped and trailer towing package cars generally requires a greater capacity radiator along with a fan shroud, 16 psi radiator pressure cap, special centrifugal water pump, larger fan, and thermostati- cally controlled fan drive (in some installations). See specifications for applications.

The high capacity system, available as optional equipment to the standard car, is a combination of the standard and air conditioning systems as necessary to provide protection against overheating for unusually severe operation requirements.

For internal cooling system protection each cooling system is factory equipped with sufficient permanent type anti-freeze for

-20°F.

protection. It is recommended that the coolant be changed annually to insure adequate anti-freeze and corrosion protection. In areas where anti-freeze is not required, MOPAR rust inhibitor or equivalent must

added to the water coolant for normal corrosion protection. Air conditioned cars require year round protection with permanent type anti-freeze with a minimum of

15°F. protection for summer operation and addi- timal anti-freeze in the winter according to the prevailing temperatures.

Fig.

I-Standard Fan

Drive

PULLEY

Condition

EXTERNAL LEAKAGE

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible Cause Correction

(a)

(b)

(C)

Loose hose clamp.

Hose leaking.

Leaking radiator.

Worn or damaged water pump seal. (d)

Loose core hole plug. (e)

Damaged gasket,

dry gasket, if

(f) engine has been stored.

Replace the hose clamp.

Replace the hose.

Repair or replace the radiator a s necessary.

Replace the water pump seal and impeller.

Install new core hole plug.

Replace gaskets a s necessary.

Cylinder head bolts loose,

tightened (g) uneven I y.

Replace the cylinder head gasket and torque head in correct sequence.

Leak at heater connection.

Leak at water temperature sending (i) unit.

Leak at water pump attaching bolt.

Leak at exhaust manifold stud.

Cracked thermostat housing.

(h)

(j)

(k)

(1)

Clean the heater connections and replace the hoses and clamps if necessary.

Tighten the water temperature sending unit.

Tighten the water p u m p attaching bolts 30 foot-pounds torque.

Seal and re-drive the stud.

Replace the thermostat housing.

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7-2

COOLING SYSTEM

Condition Possible Cause Correction

(m) Dented radiator inlet or outlet tube. (m) Straighten the radiator inlet or outlet tube as necessary.

Leaking heater core.

Cracked or porous water pump hous- i ng.

(n) Repair or replace the heater core.

(01

Replace the water pump assembly.

Warped or cracked cylinder head.

Cracked cylinder block.

(p) Replace the cylinder head.

(4) Replace the cylinder block.

Sand holes or porous condition i n (r) Replace the cylinder block or cylinder block or head. head as necessary.

Faulty pressure cap.

Loose or stripped oil cooler fittings.

(s)

Replace pressure cap.

(t)

Tighten or replace as necessary.

(g)

Faulty head gasket.

Refer to causes

(t)

(f),

(g), (p), (91, (r) and (b) listed under External Leakage.

(a)

Crack i n head into valve compartment. (c)

(d

Install a new head gasket.

Refer to corrections (f),

(g), (p), (q),

(r) and (t) listed under External Leak- age.

Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder head.

Pressure test cooling system, replace

Cracked valve port.

Crack i n block into push rod compart- (e) ment.

Cracked cylinder wall.

(f)

Leaking oil cooler. the cylinder head.

Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder block.

Pressure test cooling system, replace

(g) the cylinder block.

Repair or replace the oil cooler.

POOR CIRCULATION

(a)

(b)

Low coolant level. (a)

Collapsed radiator hose. (A bottom (b) hose with faulty spring may collapse

Fill radiator to correct level.

Replace the hose and spring. only at medium or high engine speeds.)

Fan belt loose, glazed, or oil soaked.

Air leak through bottom hose.

(c)

(d)

Faulty thermostat. (e)

Water pump impeller broken or loose (f) on shaft.

Restricted radiator core water pas- (g) sages.

Restricted engine water jacket. (h)

Tighten or replace the fan belt as necessary.

Reposition hose clamps or replace the hose. Check radiator outlets for dents or out-of-rounds.

Replace the thermostat.

Replace the water pump impeller assembly.

Flush the radiator thoroughly or rod out if necessary.

Flush the engine cooling system thoroughly.

OVERHEAT1 NG

1

(refer t o Causes and (b)

Corrections listed

(e)

(f)

Blocked radiator air passages.

Incorrect ignition timing.

Low engine oil level.

Incorrect valve timing.

Inaccurate temperature gauge.

Restricted overflow tube.

(a)

(b)

Blow out the radiator air passages.

Time the engine ignition system.

Add engine oil to the correct level.

(C)

(e)

Correct the engine valve timing.

Replace the temperature gauge.

Remove restriction from the overflow tube.

(€?I

(g)

(h) Frozen heat control valve.

(i)

Dragging brakes.

Cj)

Excessive engine idling.

(k)

Frozen coolant.

(1)

Faulty fan drive unit.

(m) Faulfy temperature sending unit.

(h)

Replace the radiator cap. Clean or replace seat.

Free up the manifold heat control valve.

Adjust the brakes.

Increase idle

R.P.M.

Thaw out cooling system, add anti- freeze as required.

(1)

Replace the fan drive unit.

(m) Replace the sending unit.

OVERFLOW

LOSS

(Also refer to Causes and

Corrections listed under

“Poor Circulation and

Overheating”)

(a) Overfilling.

(a) Adjust coolant to the correct level.

(b) Coolant foaming due to insufficient (b) Flush the radiator and add antifreeze corrosion inhibitor. or rust inhibitor as required.

(d) Broken or shifted lower hose spring. (d) Replace lower hose.

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Condition

CORROSION

APERATURE TOO

V-SLOW ENGINE

WARM-UP

WATER PUMP NOISY

COOLING SYSTEM 7-3

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Use of water containing large concen- tration of lime and minerals.

(b) Low coolant level.

(d) Use of antifreeze for extended length of time.

(e) Failure to use corrosion inhibitor i n summer.

(f) Air leak at bottom radiator hose.

(a) Use only clean soft water with inhibitor.

(b) Fill the cooling system to the correct level.

(d) Drain cooling system and replace with new antifreeze.

(e) Flush radiator and refill with clean soft water and rust inhibitor.

(f) Reposition hose clamps or replace the hose.

(a) Faulty thermostat.

(b) Inaccurate temperature gauge.

(a) Seal noisy.

(b) Bearing corroded.

(a) Replace the thermostat.

(b) Replace the temperature gauge.

(a) Add Water Pump Lube.

(b) Replace bearing seal and impeller.

INSUFFICIENT

ACCESSORYOUTPUT

DUE TO BELT SLIPPAGE

BELT SQUEAL WHEN

ACCELERATING

ENGINE

BELT SQUEAK AT IDLE

BELT ROLLED OVER I N

GROOVE

BELT JUMPS OFF

ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS

(a) Belt too loose.

(b) Belt excessively glazed or worn.

(a) Belts too loose.

(b) Belts glazed.

(a) Adjust belt tension.

(b) Replace and tighten as specified.

(a) Adjust belt tension.

(b) Replace belts.

(a) Belt too loose.

(b) Dirt and paint imbedded i n belt.

(d) Misaligned pulleys.

(a) Adjust belt tension.

(b) Replace belt.

(d) Align accessories (file brackets or use spacers as required).

(e) Non-uniform groove or eccentric pul- (e) Replace pulley. ley.

(a) Broken cord in belt.

(b) Belts not matched

(A/C).

(a) Belt too loose.

(b) Belts not matched (A/C).

(a) Replace belt.

(b) Install matched belts.

(a) Adjust belt tension.

(b) Install matched belts.

FAN

SERVICE PROCEDURES

There are no repairs to be made to the fan. I f the f a n is bent or damaged it should be replaced.

Removal

Remove the upper half of the shroud (if so equipped). Loosen the fan belt and remove the four bolts attaching the f a n to its pulley. On models so equipped, the fluid fan drive unit must be removed w i t h the fan.

lnstallation

Use the correct spacer, i f required, so that clearance between the fan blades and the radiator is from

?4 inch to

1% inches. Install the upper half of the shroud on vehicles so equipped. Tighten the fan belt as outlined in “Accessory Belt Drives.”

FLUID FAN DRIVE

Torque Control Drive

The Torque Control Drive (Fig.

2) is a silicone fluid filled coupling connecting the fan to the fan pulley.

The unit allows the fan to be driven in a normal manner at slow vehicle speeds while limiting the top speed of the fan to a pre-determined level.

Thermal Control Drive

The Thermal Control Drive (Fig.

is essentially the same as the Torque unit except for a thermal

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7-4 COOLING SYSTEM

HUB

HOUSING

GASKET

/

NK480

'*)

*,,,,,*+'

Fig. 2-Torque Control Fan Drive

NK479

Fig. 3-Thermal Control Fan Drive

spring on the drive face. The thermal spring senses the heat from the radiator and engages the drive for normal fan operation when required.

In case of engine overheating during slow car speed or idle operation, increase the engine speed to approximately

1000 rpm in neutral gear. If the condition is not corrected by increasing the engine speed, replace the fan drive unit with a unit known to be operating properly and test by operating the vehicle under the same conditions. Replace the original drive unit assembly if the trouble was corrected with the test unit.

WATER PUMP

Removal from Vehicle

(1)

Drain the cooling system. (Remove the upper half of the fan shroud if so equipped.)

(2) Loosen the power steering pump, idler pulley and alternator. Remove all belts.

(3) Remove the fan, spacer and pulley. On Air

Conditioning Models, remove the pulley from the water pump fan hub. Loosen all nuts from the fan to remove the fan drive.

(4)

Remove the bolts attaching the water pump

Fig.

4-3 18

Cubic Inch Engine Water Pump

body to the housing and remove the water pump.

lnstallation on Vehicle

CAUTION: When replacing the water pump do not install a standard water pump on any air conditioned vehicle or vice versa. See specifications for proper

Pump-

(1) Install the water pump body on the housing, using a new gasket.

(2) Tighten the bolts to 30 foot-pounds. Install the pulley, spacer and fan. (On Air Conditioning Models, assemble the fan to the fan drive and pulley, and attach the assembly to the water pump.)

(3) Tighten the nuts to 15 foot-pounds. Install the upper half of fan shroud, run engine, and check for leaks.

Disassembly (3

18

cubic inch engines)

Refer to (Fig.

and proceed as follows:

(1) Break the plastic impeller and remove it from the metal insert (Fig. 5).

(2) Split the sintered metal insert of the plastic impeller with a chisel and hammer.

(3) Remove the rubber portion of the shaft seal and the spring.

(4)

Using Puller Tool

C-3753

remove the retainer portion of the seal.

(5) Remove the fan hub using puller Tool C-412, as shown in (Fig.

6).

(6)

Support the pump body on the front face (fan hub end) and apply pressure to the rear end of the shaft to press the shaft and bearing assembly out through the front of the pump. If an attempt is made to remove the shaft in the opposite direction, damage to pump body may result. housing. Clean all parts with a suitable solvent and dry with compressed air.

Bearing assemblies removed from water pumps should not be reused,

as damage to the bearing will usually result during removal.

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SHAFT

NK478

AND BEARING

ASSEMBLY

PLASTIC IMPELLE

Fig. 5-Removing Plastic I m p e l l e r

and

Metal

Insert

Fig. 6-Removing

Fan

Hub

Assembly

cubic inch engines)

Inspect the seal surface o f t h e impeller hub to be sure it is free o f nicks, burrs, scratches and rust.

If necessary remove these blemishes using crocus cloth o n a f l a t plate.

(1)

Apply a thin coat of Perfect Seal or equivalent to the seal pocket in the pump body.

(2)

With the pump housing supported at the hub end, use a

inch

(12

point) socket

apply pressure against the outer lip of the seal retainer and press the seal assembly into the body until the retainer lip is against the pump body.

(3)

With the slinger ring in position on the long end of the pump shaft (approximately

inch from the bearing assembly) start the shaft and bearing assembly into the fan hub end

of

the pump body bore.

(4)

Use a

inch

(12

point) socket and support the

COOLING SYSTEM 7-5

pump body at the seal end, and with Tool

C-3468,

positioned against the outer bearing race only, press the shaft and bearing into the pump body, so the end of bearing is flush with the housing.

(5)

While supporting the pump on the impeller end of the shaft, press the fan hub onto the shaft so the shaft extends

11/32

inch through the fan hub.

(6)

Support the pump on the fan hub end of the shaft and position the new impeller on the pump shaft

(blade portion down). Using a tool that will press against the impeller insert only, press the impeller onto the shaft until it is flush with the end of the shaft.

Disassembly (383-426 Cubic lnch Engines)

To service the water pump, refer to (Fig.

then proceed as follows:

(1)

Support the pump body on the hub and remove the impeller by breaking the plastic away from the metal insert, as shown in (Fig.

5).

(2)

Split the sintered metal insert of the plastic impeller with a chisel and hammer.

T h e shaft and bearing assembly does n o t have t o be removed t o service a leaking pump. T h e shaft and bearing assembly should be very carefully inspected t o be sure the pump leak has not damaged t h e bearing.

(3)

Remove the rubber portion of the shaft seal and the spring.

(4)

Using Tool

C-3753,

remove the seal retainer from the housing.

(5) C-412.

(6)

Support the body on the fan hub end and press out the shaft and bearing assembly.

CAUTION: T h e shaft and bearing assembly can be removed only in t h e direction described.

If an attempt i s made t o remove the shaft in the opposite direction, damage t o t h e water pump body w i l l result.

T h e bearing and hub assemblies removed f r o m water pumps f o r any reason should not be used again

BOLT

HOUSING

GASKET

TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT

BOLT AND LOCKWASHER

AND LOCKWASHER

HoUS'NG

SLINGER

r -

KR233C

Fig.

7-383

and

426 Cubic l n c h Engine W a t e r P u m p

MyMopar.com

7-6 COOLING SYSTEM

because damage to bearings and hub usually results during removal.

(7)

Clean all parts thoroughly. Remove rust from the housing with a wire brush.

Assembly

(383-426 Cubic lnch Engines)

To assemble the water pump, refer to (Fig.

then proceed as follows:

Inspect the seal surface of the impeller hub to be sure it is free of nicks, burrs, scratches and rust. If necessary remove these blemishes using crocus cloth on a flat plate.

(1)

Apply a thin coat of Perfect Seal or equivalent to the seal pocket in the pump body.

(2)

With the pump housing supported at the hub end, use a

inch

(12

point) socket to apply pressure against the outer lip of the seal retainer and press the seal assembly into the body until the retainer lip is against the pump body.

(3)

With the slinger ring in position on the long end of the pump shaft (approximately

1/8

inch from the bearing assembly) start the shaft and bearing assembly into the fan hub end of the pump body bore.

(4)

Use a

inch

(12

point) socket and support the pump body at the seal end. With Tool

C-3468

positioned against the outer bearing race, press the shaft and bearing into the pump body so the end of bearing is exactly flush with the end of the pump body.

(5)

While supporting the pump on the impeller end of the shaft, press the fan hub onto the shaft (flat surface out) so the shaft extends

11/32

inch through the fan hub.

(6)

.. shaft and position

tne new impeller on

I .

tne pump snait

(blade portion up

Using a tool that will press against the impeller inse rt only, press the impeller onto the shaft until it is f l t ish with the end of the shaft.

RAD I AT0 R

Removal

(1)

Drain the cc Doling system.

(2)

On cars wit h automatic transmission, disconnect the oil cooler line s at the radiator bottom tank.

(3)

Remove up per and lower radiator hoses (using pliers

C-3250).

(4)

On cars with fan shroud, remove lower half of fan shroud.

( 5 )

Remove radiator attaching screws.

(6)

Radiator can now be lifted free from engine compartment.

Care should be taken not to damage the radiator cooling fins or water tubes during removal.

Fan damage should always be avoided.

lnstallation

(1)

Slide the radiator down into position behind the radiator support and install the attaching bolts.

(2)

Install the fan shroud (if so equipped), connect the hoses, and connect the transmission oil cooler lines, if so equipped.

(3)

Fill cooling system to

1%"

below the filler neck seat with water and rust inhibitor or water and anti- freeze, as required. After warm-up, re-check coolant level.

(4) On cars with automatic transmission, measure transmission oil level after warm-up and add oil as required.

Cleaning

(1)

Drain the cooling system and refill with clean

SOFT

water and add the contents of one can

(No.

top-compartment) of MoPar Cooling System Cleaner or equivalent.

(2)

Operate the engine at a fast idle for

hour.

(3)

Drain the cooling system and refill with clean water.

(4)

Pour the conditioner

(No.

bottom-compartment) into the radiator and run engine for ten minutes.

(5)

Flush the entire cooling system until water runs clean.

(6)

Refill the radiator with clean

SOFT

months.

TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER

The transmission oil cooler is located in the bottom radiator tank, which is an integral part of the radiator.

In case of a leak, the engine coolant may become mixed with the transmission fluid, also, the transmission fluid may enter the cooling system. Both the cooling system and the transmission should be inspected in the event the cooler is leaking.

Testing Oil Cooler

for

Leaks

(1)

Disconnect both oil cooler lines at the radiator.

(2)

Connect a pressure gauge to

or

ie cooler connection and a shut off valve to the other. Close the valve.

(3)

Connect a source of air pressurc

2 to the valve.

(4) Coat all fittings with oil.

(5)

Open the valve and apply (ui pressure. Oil bubbles will identify to

100

psi) air any fitting joint

l--l-- n--.-:-

I e d K S . IWpdlI

-11 :-:-4 " , 1 " .

1 all

J U l l l L ledha.

(6)

Close the valve. Gauge reading will then drop if cooler is leaking.

Repairing the Oil Cooler

(1)

Remove the radiator from the vehicle.

(2)

Remove the radiator bottom tank.

(3)

Melt the soft solder holding the cooler to the tank.

(4)

Remove the stamped retainer nuts holding the cooler fittings to the bottom tank and remove the cooler.

(5)

Install a new cooler or repair the old cooler with

silver solder

and reinstall

follows:

(6)

Position the oil cooler in the bottom tank and

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+ install the stamped retainer nuts on the oil cooler fittings.

(7)

Use soft solder to secure the cooler in the tank.

(8) Attach the bottom tank to the radiator using soft solder.

(9)

Install the radiator as described in Paragraph

“Radiator.”

(10) Fill the cooling system and test for leaks.

If the transmission operates properly after repairing the leak, drain the transmission and torque converter while hot, remove the transmission oil pan and inspect for sludge, rust, dirty or plugged inlet filter. If none of these conditions are found, reconditioning may not be necessary. Reassemble, using Transmis- sion Fluid AQ-ATF Suffix “A.”

REVERSE FLUSHING THE COOLING SYSTEM

Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forcing of water through the cooling system, using air pressure in a direction opposite to that of the normal flow of water.

Flushing Cylinder

Block

(1) Drain the radiator and remove the hoses at the radiator.

(2) Remove the thermostat and reinstall the thermostat housing.

(3) Install flushing gun Tool C-3514, or other suitable flushing gun to the inlet hose.

(4) Connect the water hose of the gun to a pressure water source and the air hose of the gun to a pressure air source.

(5) Turn on the water, and when the cylinder block is filled, turn on the air in short blasts.

(6)

Allow the cylinder block to fill between the blasts of air.

(7) Continue this procedure until the water runs clean. Test the thermostat and if satisfactory, reinstall: otherwise, replace using a new housing gasket.

(8) Refill the cooling system and test for leaks.

Reverse Flushing Radiator

(1)

Drain the cooling system and remove the hoses from the engine.

(2)

Install a flushing gun Tool C-3514, or other suitable flushing gun in the radiator lower outlet.

(3) Fill the radiator and turn on the air in short blasts.

CAUTION: Do not apply more than

15 psi pressure when pressure flushing radiator, as damage to the radiator may result.

(4) Continue this procedure until the water runs clean. Refill the cooling system.

(5) Run the engine and test for leaks.

TH ER MOSTAT

The thermostat is actuated by a pellet containing a copper-impregnated wax, as shown in (Fig. 8).

the temperature of the pellet increases, the wax expands

COOLING SYSTEM

7-7

Fig.

8-Thermostat

and opens the valve. A 180” thermostat is standard equipment.

If the thermostat does not close completely when cold, the engine will warm up slowly or not at all, and heater performance will also be impaired. Poor heater performance may also be due to the valve opening at too low a temperature. Too high a valve opening temperature or a valve that will not open can cause overheating.

Removal

(1) Drain the cooling system down to the thermostat level or below.

(2) Remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing.

(3)

Remove the thermostat housing bolts and move the thermostat and housing. re-

Testing Thermostat

(1)

Visually inspect the thermostat to make sure the valve closes tightly. If the valve does not close completely due to dirt, sand or other foreign material, carefully clean the sealing edge making sure the sealing edge is not damaged. If the valve does not close tightly when clean, install a new thermostat.

(2)

Immerse the thermostat in a container or warm water so that the pellet of the thermostat is completely covered. The pellet must not touch the bottom or sides of the container.

(3) Heat the water and stir it continuously (to insure uniform temperature) and check the water temperature with a thermometer at the point when a

.003” feeler gauge can be inserted into the valve opening at a water temperature of 175” to 185°F. If outside of this range, replace the thermostat.

(4) Continue heating the water to approximately

200°F.

The thermostat valve should be fully open at this temperature. If it is not, replace the thermostat.

lnstallation

(1) Using a new gasket, position the thermostat so the pellet end is toward the engine and attach with

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7-8 COOLING SYSTEM

VENT VALVE-

GASK :ET

6 4 x 186

Fig. 9-Radiator Pressure Cap

bolts through the thermostat housing.

(2)

If removed, reinstall or replace the upper hose.

(3)

Fill the cooling system to

inches below the filler neck with water and rust resistor or water and antifreeze.

Radiator Hoses

The hoses are removed and installed using hose clamp pliers

C-3250.

A hardened, cracked, swollen or restricted hose should be replaced.

The reinforcement spring inside the lower hose is necessary to prevent collapsing of the hose due to suction at medium or high engine speeds. If this spring is weak or broken, it should be replaced.

Radiator Pressure Cap

Radiators are equipped with a

psi cap, as standard equipment and

psi with air conditioning,

C.A.P. equipped and trailer towing package as shown in (Fig.

9).

Always note the identification number on the cap when replacing.

WARNING: When removing the pressure cap, turn counter-clockwise to the stop, permitting the built-up pressure to escape through the overflow tube. This will prevent the hot water from spraying out of the radiator filler opening.

PRESSURE TESTING RADIATOR CAP

Select the short neoprene seal and metal adapter from the kit, Tool

C-3499.

Slip the seal on the tube at the bottom of the instrument. Then attach either end of the short adapter to the instrument. Dip the pressure cap in water and apply cap to end of adapter.

Working the plunger, as shown in (Fig.

10)

bring the pressure to

pounds on the gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold the pressure within a range of

12-15

pounds, replace the cap with a

new tested

cap. If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, the cap should test between

15-16

psi.

The brass vent valve at the bottom of the cap should hang freely. If the rubber gasket has swollen and prevents the valve from hanging loosely, replace the cap.

PRESSURE TESTING THE COOLING SYSTEM

(1)

Wipe the radiator filler neck sealing seat clean.

The water level should be ?h inch below neck of the radiator.

(2)

Attach the Tester Tool

C-3499

to the radiator, as shown in (Fig.

11)

and apply

pounds pressure. If the pressure drops inspect all points for external leaks.

WARNING: Pressure builds up fast. Any excessive amount of pressure built up by continuous engine operation, must be released to a safe pressure point.

NEVER PERMIT PRESSURE TO EXCEED

15 Ibs.

(3)

If there are no external leaks, after the gauge dial shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester and run the engine to operating temperature in order to open the thermostat and allow the coolant to expand.

Reattach the tester and pump to

lbs. pressure while the engine is running. Race the engine, and if the needle on the dial fluctuates it indicates a combustion leak, usually a head gasket.

(4)

Remove the wires from the spark plugs on one bank and operate the engine on the opposite bank. If the needle continues to fluctuate, it indicates a leak on the bank still in operation. If the needle ceases to fluctuate, the leak is in the bank, from which combustion has been released.

(5)

If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate, race the engine a few times and if an abnormal amount of water emits from the exhaust system at the tail pipe,

Fig. IO-Testing Pressure Cap

Fig.

1 1

-Pressure Testing Cooling

System

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+ it may indicate a leak that can be a faulty head gasket, cracked engine block, or the cylinder head near the exhaust ports.

(6)

If the above pressure test of the cooling system holds the pressure (step

5),

then there is no leak, however, there may be internal leaks which can be determined by removing the oil dip-stick and if water globules appear intermixed with the oil it will indicate a serious internal leak in the engine. If there is an internal leak, the engine must be disassembled, the leak located and necessary new parts installed.

ENGINE WATER TEMPERATURE GAUGE

For removal, Installation and Testing procedures of the water temperature sending and receiving units, refer to “Electrical” Group

“Gauges.”

PROPER BELT TENSION

The satisfactory performance of the belt driven accessories depends on the maintenance of the proper belt tension. There are two methods by which belt tensions can be properly established, “The Torque

Method” and “The Belt Deflection Method.” If the specified tensions are not maintained, belt slippage may cause engine overheating, lack of power steering assist, loss in air conditioning capacity, reduced alternator charging rates, and greatly reduced belt life. To avoid any such adverse effects, the following service procedure should be followed.

(1)

Adjust all belts to the specified “belt in use” tension at new car preparation.

(2)

Readjust all belts as part of the “during warranty inspection.”

(3)

Test all belt tensions by the deflection method at servicing and retighten if needed.

(4)

The new belt tension specifications should be used on all belt replacements, and the above procedure followed thereafter.

COOLING SYSTEM

7-9

Torque Method

All alternator and power steering pump belts can be adjusted to the specified tension by use

of

a torque wrench. The power steering belts are tightened by using Tool

C-3832

and torque wrench Tool

(2-3005.

The alternator belts are adjusted by using a special

Tool

C-3841

and torque wrench Tool

(2-3005.

The special tool should be hooked at the heavily- ribbed section of the alternator rectifier end shield.

To tighten belts by the torque method, loosen all mounting bolts and apply torque to the accessory

or

idler. (Refer to Specifications.) Tighten all mounting bolts while the torque is applied to the accessory. If it is not possible to use the torque wrench because

clearance, use an extension.

Belt Deflection Method

All belts can also be adjusted by measuring the deflection of the belt at the mid-point between two pulleys under a five-pound push or pull. A small spring scale can be used to establish the five-pound load. (See Figure

for correct location at which to measure deflection.)

This method should be used only when it is not possible to use the torque method. To adjust the belts by the deflection method, loosen all mounting bolts and use a bar to apply tensions to the belts being careful not to damage the accessory. A

Y 2

inch square drive hinge handle can be used if the accessory has a square hole. Tighten the mounting bolts and check the deflection. (See Specifications.) It may be necessary to repeat this procedure several times to establish the correct tension.

Any belt that has operated for a minimum of

half-hour is considered a “belt in use.”

(

W.P.

NK481 NK484

Fig. 12-Belt Deflection Locations

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7-10 COOLING SYSTEM

COOLING SPECIFICATIONS

POLARA-MONACO

Engine Options

~ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

318 None

C.A.P.

A/C

A/C & C.A.P.

Trailer Tow

383-2 BB1. None

383-4 BBI.

C.A.P.

A/C

A/C & C.A.P.

Transmission

3-Speed Manual

Automatic

3-Speed Manual

Automatic

10"

3-Speed Manual

Automatic

3-Speed Manual

Automatic

10"

3-Speed Manual

Automatic

O i l FAN

Water Pump Pres- Cool-

Impeller sure ant

Cooler Box Diam- No. Diam- Cap Capaci-

Size Shroud eter Blades Width Ratio Drive Spacer eter Blades PSI t y

10"

None

18"

* *

18"

Yes

18"

None

18"

2%" 1.3

* *

.95

2" .95

Solid 2.38" 4.20"

* *

Thermal None 3.50"

* *

Solid 2.38" 4.20"

~~~

4 2"

* * *

.95 Solid 1.72" 4.38" 10

* *

20**

21**

_ _ _ ~

14 17**

3-Speed Manual

Automatic

10"

3-Speed Manual N/A

&Speed Manual

4 BBI. only

Automatic

10"

3-Speed Manual N/A

4-Speed Manual

4 BBI. only

Automatic

10"

12"

Yes

N/A

Yes

N/A

Yes

* l8?W

18"

N/A

18%"

N/A

18%"

18"

2%''

Torque None

Solid 1.72"

* *

N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A

2Y2" 1.4 Thermal None 3.67" 6

* * * *

16 17**

N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A

24/2" 1.4 Thermal None 3.67" 6

* * * *

* *

2%" .95 Solid 1.72" 4.38" 10

18**

Trailer Tow

426 None

C.A.P.

A/ C

A/C & C.A.P.

4-Speed Manual

Automatic

4-Speed Manual

Automatic

4-Speed Manual

Automatic

4-Speed Manual

Automatic

12"

Automatic 12" Trailer Tow

Add one quart for heater.

Single asterick designates same as above

None

Yes

18"

* *

.95

18%" 7

2Y2"

* *

1.4

* *

18" 7 2%" .95

Solid 1.72"

Torque None

* *

Thermal

Solid 1.72"

4.38"

3.67"

4.38"

17**

18**

* *

BELT

TENSION SPECIFICATIONS

TORQUE METHOD

TORQUE (FT.-LBS.) TO BE APPLIED TO COMPONENTS

ACCESSORY

ENGINE DISPLACEMENT (CU. IN.)

USED BELT*

318 383-426

POWER STEERING BRACKET

Solid Bracket

Self Tightening

ALTERNATOR

With Air Conditioning

Without Air Conditioning

A/C Idler Bracket

Fan Idler

...................................................

.................................................

.............................................

........................................

...............................................

.......................................................

30**

*

Any belt that has operated for a minimum of a half-hour is considered to be used.

**

426 Engines Only.

NEW BELT

318 383-426

60

40**

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COOLING SYSTEM 7-11

BELT TENSION SPECIFICATIONS

BELT DEFLECTION M E T H O D

Deflection (Inches)

be Applied at Midpoint of Belt

Segment Under a 5 Pound Load. (See Figure 12)

ALL MODELS ALL MODELS

Accessory Belt in

Use New Belt

318 383-426 318 383-426

Accessory Belt in

Use New Belt

318 383-426 318 383-426

Power Steering

Fan Belt-Idler

.

. .

. . . . .

'/a

3/16 1/16 3/16

Alternator-Without A/C*

. . . .

.

. . .

*A/C-Air Conditioning

l/a

!/a

1/16 1/16

With A/C*

. . .

3/a

1 4

3/8

'/a

'/4

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G R O U P

ELECTRICAL

ALTERNATOR AND

VOLTAGE REGULATOR

BATTERY

HORNS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

HEADLIGHTS

.........................

Page

17 STARTER

49 INSTRUMENTS AND INDICATORS

SPECIFICATIONS

.............................

TURN SIGNALS

. . . . . . .

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.......................

Page

52

65

5

57

...............................

64 WINDSHIELD WIPERS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

59 IGNITION SYSTEM

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

36 WIRING DIAGRAMS

....................

72 BATTERY

INDEX

Adjustment of Acid Gravity

Battery Testing Chart

........................

2 Three Minute Charge Test

...................

Battery Visual Inspection

Charging the Battery

Fast Charging

....................

.....................

2 High Rate Discharge Test of Battery Capacity

.........................

Page

Slow Charging

Specifications

.............................

................................

Page

..............................

4 Specific Gravity Test

..........................

BATTERY TESTING CHART

Hydrometer Test

(Corrected to

8OOF.)

LESS THAN 1.220

SP.

GR.

CELLS SHOW MORE

THAN 25 POINTS (.025

Specific

Gravity)

VAR I AT1

CELLS SHOWING MORE

THAN 1.220 SPECIFIC

GRAVITY

State of

Charge or

Battery Condition

Battery low.

Correction

Recharge battery. Make a high rate discharge test for capacity. If cells test

O.K.,

recharge and adjust gravity of all cells uniformly. Test voltage regulator setting.

Thoroughly test electrical system for short circuits, loose connections and corroded terminals.

Short circuit in low cell. Try to recharge the battery. See “Charging

Loss of electrolyte by leakage or exces- the Battery.” See “Adjustment

Acid sive overcharge.

Improper addition of acid.

Natural or premature failure.

Cracked case.

Gravity.” Test battery for capacity. Install new battery if necessary.

Satisfactory.

No correction required make a high rate discharge capacity test, if cells test O.K., adjust gravity of all cells uniformly.

Cranking Test Possible Cause Correction

I F THE VOLTAGE DROP IS

Poor contact between cable terminal and Locate high resistance: repair or replace

MORE THAN

0.3

VOLTS

vehicle frame or between cable clamp as necessary.

(3/10)

SETWEEN THE

STARTING MOTOR CABLE

terminal and battery post or starter switch contacts. Frayed, corroded or broken

AND THE VEHICLE

FRAME WHILE CRANK-

cable.

ING LOOK FOR:

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8-2

ELECTRICAL-BATTERY

BATTERY VISUAL INSPECTION

SERVICE PROCEDURES

(1) Protect paint finish with fender covers.

(2) Disconnect battery cables at battery.

(3) Remove battery hold-down clamp and remove battery from vehicle.

(4)

Inspect battery carrier and fender side panel for damage caused by loss of acid from battery.

(5)

Clean top of battery with a solution of clean warm water and baking soda. Scrub areas with a stiff bristle brush being careful not to scatter corrosion residue. Finally wipe off with a cloth moistened with ammonia or baking soda in water.

CAUTION: Keep cleaning solution out of battery cells to eliminate weakening the electrolyte.

(6) Inspect cables. Replace damaged or frayed cables. clamp terminals with Cleaning Tool

MX-75.

(8)

Examine battery case and cover for cracks.

(9) Install battery.

(10) Tighten battery hold-down screw nuts to 3 foot-pounds.

Observe polarity of battery terminals of battery to be sure the battery is not reversed.

(11) Connect cable clamps to battery posts and tighten securely. Coat all connections with light mineral grease or petrolatum after tightening.

(12) If electrolyte level is low, fill to recommended level with mineral-free water. sides, top or bottom of barrel. Take a reading with eye on level with liquid ever in the gauge barrel.

NOT

TILT

hydrometer.

Specific gravity of battery electrolyte strength or density varies not only with the quantity of the acid in solution but also with temperature.

temperature increases, the volume of the electrolyte expands and specific gravity is reduced. As temperature drops, electrolyte contracts and specific gravity increases.

Specific gravity variations caused by temperatures must be considered in the analysis of the battery, otherwise specific gravity readings will not give a true indication of state of charge.

Use a battery immersion type thermometer of the mercury-in-glass type, having a scale reading as high as 125°F and designed for not over a 1-inch bulb immersion. A suitable dairy type thermometer may prove satisfactory for the purpose.

Draw electrolyte in and out of the hydrometer barrel several times to bring the temperature of the hydrometer float to that of the acid in the cell and then measure the electrolyte temperature in the cell.

The temperature correction in specific gravity reading at

80”

Fahrenheit is zero. Add

.004

specific gravity points for every 10 degrees over

80”

F. and subtract .004 specific gravity points for every 10 degrees under

80”

F. All readings must be corrected to

degrees Fahrenheit. Refer to Figure 1 and examples one and two as follows:

Tomporahwa

F. Qmvlty POI* l o Add

subhaa

SPECIFIC GRAVITY TEST

A hydrometer Tool 40-B is used to measure specific gravity of electrolyte in battery cells. This gives an indication of how much unused sulphuric acid remains in the solution.

A hydrometer should be graduated to read from

1.160 to 1.320, in graduations of

.005

specific gravity.

Graduated markings should be not less than

1/16 inch apart and accurate to within .002 specific gravity. Graduated portion of stem should be abput two inches long. Clearance between float and glass barrel, at smallest diameter, should be a minimum of

?48”

around all sides and barrel must be clean.

Hydrometer floats are calibrated to indicate correctly only at one fixed temperature.

Liquid level of battery cell should be at normal height and electrolyte should be thoroughly mixed with any battery water which may have just been added by charging battery before taking hydrometer readings. See “Adjustment of Acid Gravity.”

In reading a hydrometer, the gauge barrel must be held vertically and just right amount of fluid be drawn up into gauge barrel with pressure bulb fully expanded to lift float freely so it does not touch the

Fig. I-Hydrometer Reading Correction Chart

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BATTERY-ELECTRICAL

8-3

Example

Hydrometer Reading

Acid Temperature

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.260

. . . . . . . .

degrees Fahrenheit

Subtract Specific Gravity

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.024

Correct Specific Gravity is

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.236

Example

Hydrometer Reading

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.255

Acid Temperature

. . . . . . .

100

degrees Fahrenheit

Add Specific Gravity

....................

.008

Corrected Specific Gravity is

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.263

A fully charged relatively new battery has a specific gravity reading of

1.260

plus

.015

minus

.005

(all batteries for use in temperate climates).

ADJUSTMENT OF ACID GRAVITY

Hydrometer floats usually are not calibrated below about

1.160

specific gravity and cannot indicate the condition of a battery in a very low state of charge.

Therefore, it may be necessary to give the battery several hours charge before a hydrometer reading will indicate that the battery is taking a charge.

If the specific gravity of all cells are not within

.015

points of specified value, corrected to 80”F, at the end of a full charge, remove some of the electrolyte with hydrometer and add a like amount of distilled water to reduce the gravity if too high, or add

1.400

Specific

Gravity acid to raise specific gravity, if too low.

Continue the charge so as to give the electrolyte a chance to mix and then read the gravity after another hour of charge to note the effect of the additions.

Continue this adjusting procedure until gravity is brought to the desired value by charging for one hour after each adjustment.

Never adjust the specific gravity of any battery cell which does not gas freely on charge. Unless electrolyte has been lost through spilling or leaking, it should not be necessary to add acid to a battery during its life.

Acid

should never be added unless one is certain that the cell will not come up to normal gravity by continued charging. Always make the temperature correction for hydrometer readings, as warm electrolyte will read low and this might be mistaken for failure of the battery to rise normally in gravity. It could also be falsely concluded that the battery would not take a full charge.

H I G H RATE DISCHARGE TEST OF

BATTERY CAPACITY

Satisfactory capacity tests can be made only when battery equals or exceeds

1.220

specific gravity at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If the reading is below

1.220

the battery should be slow charged until fully charged in order to secure proper test results.

Test Procedure

(1)

Turn control knob of Battery-Starter-Tester to

OFF

position.

(2)

Turn Voltmeter Selector Switch to the

volt position on test units so equipped.

(3)

Connect test ammeter and voltmeter positive leads to battery positive terminal. Connect ammeter and voltmeter negative leads to battery negative terminal (Fig.

2).

The voltmeter clips must contact the battery posts or cable clamps and not the ammeter lead clips.

Fig. 2-High Rate Discharge

Test

(4)

Turn control knob clockwise until ammeter reading is equal to three times the ampere hour rating of the battery.

(5)

Maintain this load for

seconds; the voltmeter should read

9.5

volts or more, which will indicate that the battery has good output capacity.

(6)

After the

second test, turn Battery-Starter-

Tester control knob to the

OFF

position.

If the voltage in the “High Rate Discharge Test” was under

9.5

volt, the battery should be test charged to determine whether the battery can be satisfactorily charged.

CHARGING T H E BATTERY

Three Minute Charge Test (Fig. 3 )

This test should not be used if battery temperature is below 60 degrees

(1)

Connect Battery Charger positive lead to the battery positive terminal and negative

(-) lead to battery negative terminal.

IMPORTANT: Be sure of correct polarity when charging batteries.

(2)

Trip the Battery Charger Power Switch to

position. Turn timer switch past three minute mark then back to the three minute mark.

(3)

Adjust Battery Charger Switch to highest

pos-

sible rate not exceeding

40 amperes.

MyMopar.com

8-4 ELECTRICAL-BATTERY

NY a 3 a ~

Fig.

3-Three Mini

(4)

When timer switch cuts off at the end of 3 minutes, turn timer switch back to fast charge.

(5)

Use

volt scale of the Battery Starter Tester and measure total voltage of battery posts while battery is being fast charged. If total voltage during charge exceeds 15.5 volts, battery is sulphated and should be cycled and slow-charged until specific gravity reaches

1.260

(See “Slow Charging”).

A slow charge is preferable t o bring t h e battery up t o a full charge.

If specific gravity remains constant after testing battery a t one hour intervals for three hours, battery is at its highest state of charge.

(6) Make another capacity test. If capacity test does not meet specifications, replace battery.

Fast Charging the Battery (Fig. 4 )

If adequate time for a slow charge is not available, a high rate

(FAST)

charge is permissible and will give

sufficient charge in one hour enabling the battery

Fig. 4-Fast Charging the B a t t e r y and alternator to continue to carry the electrical load.

Connect Battery Charger positive

(+) tery positive terminal and negative

(-) lead to battery negative terminal. If battery is not removed from vehicle, BE

SURE ignition switch is turned off and all electrical accessories are turned off during charging.

CAUTION: T h e battery can be damaged beyond repair unless t h e following precautions are taken:

(1)

Battery electrolyte temperature must

N E V E R exceed

125 degrees Fahrenheit.

If this temperature is reached, battery should be cooled by reducing charging rate from the circuit. or remove battery

(2)

batteries approach full charge electrolyte in each cell will begin to gas or bubble. Excessive gassing must not be allowed.

(3) Do not fast charge longer than one hour.

If battery does not show a significant change in specific gravity after one hour of

“FAST”

charge, the slow charge method should be used.

Remember to use temperature correction when checking specific gravity.

T h e manufacturers o f high rate charging equip m e n t generally outline t h e necessary precautions and some models have thermostatic temperature limiting and t i m e limiting controls.

WARNING: W h e n batteries are being charged a n ex- plosive gas m i x t u r e forms beneath t h e cover o f each cell.

not smoke near batteries o n charge o r which have recently been charged.

Do not break live circuits a t t h e terminals o f t h e batteries o n charge.

A spark w i l l occur where t h e live circuit is broken. Keep a l l open flames away f r o m t h e battery.

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STARTER-ELECTRICAL

8-5

Slow Charging Batteries

Many discharged batteries can be brought back to good condition by slow charging; especially batteries that are sulphated.

Battery should be tested with a hydrometer and a record kept of the readings taken at regular intervals throughout the charge. When a cell has a specific gravity reading that is 25 points (.025) or more below other cells, that cell is faulty and battery should be replaced.

Safe slow charging rates are determined by allowing one ampere per positive plate per cell. Proper slow charging rate would be 4 amperes for a 48 ampere hour battery; 5 amperes for a

ampere hour battery; and 6 amperes for a 70 ampere hour battery.

Rate of charge for a normally discharged battery is one ampere per positive plate per cell.

The average length of time necessary to charge a battery by the slow charge method at normal rates is from 12 to 16 hours, however, when a battery continues to show an increase in specific gravity, the battery charge should be continued even if it takes 24 hours o r more.

Watch the temperature of batteries carefully and if the temperature of any one of them reaches llO°F., lower the charging rate.

Battery will be fully charged when it is gassing freely and when there is no further rise in specific gravity after three successive readings taken at hourly intervals. Make sure hydrometer readings are corrected for temperature.

The rate of charge for a sulphated battery should be no more than

'/2

the normal slow charge rate.

Many sulphated batteries can be brought back to a useful condition by slow charging a t half the normal charging rate from 60 to 100 hours. This long charging cycle is necessary to reconvert crystalline lead sulphate into active materials.

Batteries that are sulphated have the following characteristics:

(1) Battery temperature tends to increase rapidly while charging.

(2) Gravity under charge increases very slowly or not at all.

(3) Battery will gas excessively under normal charging rate.

(4) Excessive voltage required to obtain normal charging rate.

When a battery takes a full charge, but is returned several times in need of a recharge, check for a cracked cell partition with a syringe to provide air pressure; bubbles will appear in an adjacent cell if a crack is present.

REDUCTION GEAR STARTER

Amperage Draw Test

Armature Testing

Test for Ground

..........................

Test for Short Circuit

.......................

.............................

Test Commutator for Runout

Page

Assembling the Starter

Brushes and Springs Replacement

Bushings Replacement

........................

Cleaning the Starter Parts

Disassembly

................

.......................

............

....................

Field

..................................

Coils Replacement

Field Coils Testing

General Information

Ground Circuit Test

Insulated Circuit Test

Installing the Starter

Removing the Starter

......................

............................

...........................

..........................

.........................

Replacement of B r u s h e s and Springs

...........

INDEX

Resistance and Current Draw Testing

Starter Clutch Unit Servicing

Service Diagnosis

Servicing the Bushings

Servicing the Starter Clutch Unit

Specifications

.............................

........................

................................

Starter Amperage Draw Test

Starter Ground Circuit Test

Starter Insulated Circuit Test

Starter Resistance Test

Free Running Test

.........................

Locked-Resistance Test

..........

..................

..............

...................

....................

.....................

Page

...................

......................

Testing the Starter (Bench Test)

Testing Armature

Testing Armature for Ground

Testing Armature for Short

Testing Commutator Runout

Testing

Field

Coils for Ground

................

Circuit

............

.................

GENERAL INFORMATION

The starter has an armature-to-engine crankshaft ratio of

45 to

1: a 3.5 to

1 reduction gear set is built into the starter assembly, which is housed in an alu- minum die casting, Fig.

The starter utilizes a solenoid shift device, the housing of the solenoid is integral with the starter drive end housing.

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8-6 ELECTRICAL-STARTER

Condition

STARTER FAILS TO

OPERATE

STARTER FAILS AND

LIGHTS DIM

STARTER TURNS, BUT

PINION DOES NOT

ENGAGE

STARTERRELAYDOES

NOT CLOSE

RELAY OPERATES BUT

SOLENOID

DOES NOT

SOLENOID PLUNGER

VIBRATES

BACK

AND

FORTH WHEN SWITCH

IS ENGAGED

SERVICE

DIAGNOSIS

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Weak battery or dead cell in battery.

(b) Ignition switch faulty.

(a)

Test specific gravity. Recharge or replace battery as required.

(b) Test and replace switch if necessary.

(d) Inspect and test all the wiring. (d) Open circuit, wire bekeen the ignition-starter switch and ignition terminal on starter relay.

(e)

Inoperative clutch unit.

(f) Faulty startink motor.

(g) Armature shaft sheared.

(h) Open solenoid pull-in wire.

(e) Replace clutch unit.

(f) Test and repair as necessary.

(g) Test and repair.

(h) Test and replace solenoid if necessary.

(a) Weak battery or dead cell in battery.

(a) Test for specific gravity. Recharge or redace batterv as reauired.

Loose or corroded battery cable (b) Clean terminils and' clamps, replace term na

Is.

if necessary. Apply a light film of petrolatum to terminals after tighten- i ng.

Internal ground in windings.

Grounded starter fields.

Armature rubbing on pole shoes.

(d) Test and repair starter.

(e) Test and repair starter.

Starter clutch slipping.

(a) Replace clutch unit.

Broken teeth on flywheel drive gear. (b) Replace flywheel ring gear. Inspect teeth on starter clutch pinion gear.

Pinion shaft rusted, dirty or dry, due (c) Clean, test and lubricate. to lack of lubrication.

Battery discharged.

Fa u I ty wiring.

(a) Recharge or replace battery.

(b) Test for open circuit, wire between starter relay ground terminal post and neutral starter switch (automatic transmission only). Also test for open circuit; wire between ignition-starter switch and ignition terminal and starter relay.

Neutral starter switch on automatic (c) Test and replace the switch if nec- transmission faulty.

Starter relay faulty. essary.

(d) Test and replace if necessary.

Fa u

Ity wiring. (a)

Test for open circuit wire between starter-relay solenoid terminal and solenoid terminal post.

Faulty solenoid switch or connections. (b) Test for loose terminal connections

Solenoid switch contacts corroded. between solenoid and starter field.

Broken lead or a loose soldered con- (d) Test and replace solenoid if neces- nection inside solenoid switch (brush holder plate). sary.

Battery low.

Faulty wiring.

(a) Test for specific gravity of battery.

Replace or recharge battery.

(b) Test for loose connections at relay, ignition-starter switch and solenoid.

Lead or connections broken inside (c) Test and replace solenoid if neces- solenoid switch cover (brush holder plate) or open hold-in winding. sary.

Check for corrosion on solenoid con- (d) Test and clean the contacts. tacts.

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Condition

STARTEROPERATES

BUT

WILL NOT DISEN-

GAGE WHEN THE

IGNITION STARTER

SWITCH

IS RELEASED

STARTER-ELECTRICAL

8-7

Possible Cause Correction

1

(b)

Broken solenoid plunger spring or (a) spring out of position.

Faulty ignition-starter switch.

(b)

(c)

Test and repair.

Test and replace the sary.

Remove the

10 oil on switch if contact switch plunger, wipe clean of all dirt, apply a film of

SAE

excess.

Test and repair. neces- the plunger, wipe off

Insufficient clearance between wind- (d) ing leads to solenoid terminal and main contactor in solenoid.

Faulty relay. (e)

Test and replace relay if necessary.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

STARTER AMPERAGE DRAW TEST

(with BST-11, BST-10, or BST-5 Tester)

Check battery electrolyte gravity with a reliable hydrometer. Gravity should be not less than

1.220

(temperature corrected).

see that battery passes the High Rate Discharge Test shown in the “Battery” section of this manual.

Turn Battery-Starter Tester

CONTROL KNOB

“OFF” position.

Turn voltmeter Selector Switch to

Volt position.

Connect heavy

Positive

ammeter lead (Red) to

Positive

battery terminal. Connect heavy

Negative

ammeter lead (Black) to

Negative

battery terminal.

Connect

Positive

voltmeter lead (Red) to

Positive

battery terminal. Connect

Negative

voltmeter lead

(Black) to

Negative

battery terminal.

DISCONNECT

ignition primary lead from ignition ballast resistor,

primary wire from either side of coil, to prevent engine from starting.

Crank engine with a remote control starter switch and observe

Exact

reading on Voltmeter. Stop cranking engine. Without cranking engine, turn tester

CONTROL KNOB

clockwise until voltmeter reads

Ex- actly

the same as when engine was being cranked with the remote control starter switch. Ammeter now indicates starter amperage draw. Check specifications.

Engine should be up to operating temperature. Ex- tremely heavy oil or a tight engine will increase starter amperage draw.

and ammeter. Voltage should not exceed

volt.

voltage reading that exceeds

volt indicates there is high resistance caused from loose circuit connections, a faulty cable, burned starter relay or burned solenoid switch contacts. A current that is high and is combined with slow cranking speed, indicates starter should be removed and repaired.

STARTER GROUND iClRCUlT TEST

(1)

Connect test voltmeter positive lead to the starter housing and voltmeter negative lead to battery negative post.

(2)

Crank engine with a remote control starter switch and observe voltmeter reading. Voltmeter reading should not exceed

volt.

A

reading of

volt or less indicates the resistance of the ground cable and connections is normal. If voltmeter reading is more than

volt, it indicates excessive voltage loss in starter ground circuit. Make the following tests to isolate point of excessive voltage loss. Repeating test at each connection.

(a) Starter drive housing.

(b) Cable terminal at engine.

small change will occur each time a normal portion of circuit is removed from the test.

definite change in voltmeter reading indicates that last part eliminated in the test is at fault.

Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows:

Battery ground cable

volts

Engine ground cable

Each connection

volt

STARTER RESISTANCE

(1)

Test battery electrolyte specific gravity. Speci- fic gravity should be

1.220

o r above.

(2)

Disconnect positive battery lead from battery terminal post. Connect an 0 to

300

scale ammeter between disconnected lead and battery terminal post.

(3)

Connect a test voltmeter with

10 volt scale division between battery positive post and starter switch terminal at starter solenoid.

(4)

Crank engine and observe reading on voltmeter

STARTER INSULATED CIRCUIT TEST

(1) Test battery electrolyte specific gravity. Speci- fic gravity should be

1.220 or

above. If battery specific gravity is below

1.220,

recharge battery to full charge before proceeding with test.

(2)

Turn voltmeter selector switch to

volt position.

(3)

Disconnect ignition coil secondary cable.

(4)

Connect voltmeter positive lead to battery positive post and voltmeter negative lead to solenoid con-

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8-8 ELECTR ICAL-STARTER

al v)

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+ nectar which connects to the starter field coils.

The voltmeter will read off scale to the right until starter is actuated. solenoid terminal of starter relay.

(6)

Crank engine with a remote starter control starter switch and observe voltmeter reading. Volt- meter reading should not exceed

volt. A voltmeter reading of

volt or less indicates voltage drop is normal in cables, starter relay switch solenoid switch and connections between battery and starter motor.

See “Starter Ground Circuit Test.”

If voltmeter reading is more than

volt, it indicates high resistance in starter insulated circuit Make following tests to isolate point of excessive voltage loss:

(A) Remove voltmeter lead from solenoid connector and connect to the following points, repeating test at each connection. Starter terminal of solenoid, battery terminal of solenoid, battery cable terminal at solenoid, starter relay and cable clamp at the battery.

(B) A small change will occur each time a normal portion of the circuit is removed from test. A definite change in the voltmeter reading indicates that the last part eliminated in test is at fault.

Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows:

Battery insulated cable

volt

Solenoid switch

Each connection

volt

.o volt

Replace faulty cables. Clean and tighten all connections.

REMOVING THE STARTER

(1) Disconnect ground cable at battery.

(2) Remove cable at starter.

(3) Disconnect solenoid lead wires at solenoid minals. ter-

(4)

Remove one stud nut and one bolt attaching starter to flywheel housing, slide automatic transmission oil cooler tube bracket off the stud (if equipped) and remove the starter. so

TESTING THE STARTER

(BENCH TEST)

Free Running Test

( 1 )

Place starter in a vise and connect a fully charged,

12 volt battery to starter as follows:

(a) Connect a test ammeter (100 amperes scale) and a carbon pile rheostat in series with battery positive post and starter terminal.

(b) Connect a voltmeter

(15 volt scale) across starter.

(d) Connect battery cable from battery negative post to starter frame.

(2) Adjust the rheostat until battery voltage shown on voltmeter reads

11 volts. Amperage draw should be as shown in specifications.

STARTER-ELECTRICAL

8-9

Locked-Resistance Test

(1) Install starter in a test bench.

(2) Follow instructions of test equipment manufacturers and test the starter against following specifications. With applied battery voltage adjusted to

volts.

Amperage drawn should be as shown in specifications.

SERVICING THE STARTER

Disassembly

(1)

Place the starter gear housing in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Use the vise as support fixture only.

Do NOT

clamp.

(2)

Remove two through bolts and starter end head assembly.

(3)

Carefully pull armature up and out of gear housing and starter frame and field assembly. Re- move steel and fiber thrust washer.

The wire of shunt field coil is soldered to the brush terminal. One set of brushes are connected to this terminal. The other pair of brushes is attached to the series field coils by means of a terminal screw. Care- fully pull frame and field assembly up just enough to expose terminal screw and solder connection of shunt field a t brush terminal. Place two wood blocks between starter frame and starter gear housing to facilitate removal of terminal screw, (Fig.

2).

ASSEMBL Y

62x

,198

Fig. 2-Removing or Installing Brush Terminal Screw

(4)

Support brush terminal by placing a finger behind the terminal and remove terminal screw. brush terminal, Fig.

Starter brush holder plate with starter brush terminal, contact and brushes is serviced as an assembly.

(6)

Remove all old sealer at brush holder plate and gear housing.

(7)

Unsolder solenoid lead wire and unwind wire

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8-10 ELECTRICAL-STARTER

BRUSH

PLATE

HOLDER

SCREW

INSULATOR

SOLEI

Fig. 3-Unsoldering Shunt C o i l Lead W i r e

Fig. 5-Removing or Installing

Brush Holder P l a t e Screw

SOLENOID

RELAY STUD

WASHER

SOLENOID

COIL

RETAINER

Fig. 6-Solenoid Assembly Removed

NK73

Fig. 4-Unwinding or W i n d i n g t h e Solenoid

Lead W i r e from starter brush terminal (Fig 4).

(8)

Remove screw attaching brush holder plate to starter gear housing (Fig.

5).

(9) Remove nut (11/32 wrench), steel washer and insulating washer from solenoid terminal.

(10) Straighten solenoid wire and remove brush holder plate with brushes as an assembly.

(11) Remove solenoid assembly from gear housing well (Fig.

6).

(12) Remove nut, steel washer and sealing washer from starter battery terminal.

(13) Remove starter battery terminal from holder plate.

(14) Remove solenoid contact and plunger from solenoid.

(15) Remove solenoid return spring from well of solenoid housing moving core.

(16) Remove dust cover from gear housing (Fig. 7).

Fig. 7-Removing Dust Cover

(17) Release retainer that positions driven gear on pinion shaft (Fig.

8).

CAUTION:

Retainer is under tension and a cloth should be placed over the retainer t o prevent it f r o m springing away after removal.

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STARTER-ELECTRICAL

8-1

1

PINION. SHAFT

Fig. 8-Removing the

#Driven

(18)

Release retainer ring at front of pinion shaft

(Fig.

9).

n o t spread retainer ring a n y greater t h a n outside diameter of pinion shaft otherwise lock ring can b e damaged.

RETAINING

WASHER

Fig. IO-Removing Pinion Shaft

Fig. 9-Removing or

I n s t a l l i n g

Pinion

S h a f t Retainer R i n g

(19)

Push pinion shaft towards rear of housing (Fig.

10)

and remove retainer ring and thrust washers, clutch and pinion assembly, with the two shifter fork nylon actuators as an assembly (Fig.

11).

(20)

Remove driven gear and friction washer.

(21)

Pull shifting fork forward and remove solenoid moving core (Fig.

12).

(22)

Remove shifting fork retainer pin (Fig.

13)

and remove clutch shifting fork assembly.

CLEANING THE STARTER PARTS

(1) Do not immerse parts in cleaning solvent. Im- mersing field frame and coil assembly and/or armature will damage insulation. Wipe these parts with a clean cloth only.

SHIFTING FORK

Fig. 12-Removing or I n s t a l l i n g Moving Core

(2)

Do not immerse clutch unit in cleaning solvent.

The clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and solvent will wash lubricant from the clutch.

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8-12

ELECTRICAL-STARTER

SHIFTING

- A

FORK

Fig. 13-Removing or

Installing

Shift Fork

Pin

(3) The starter-clutch outer housing and pinion gear may be cleaned with a cloth moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a clean dry cloth.

(4) Unsolder solenoid lead wires from solenoid terminal relay stud.

( 5 )

Clean all corrosion from solenoid assembly

(washers, sleeve and retainer and inside of solenoid housing). These metal parts are part of the solenoid hold-in ground circuit and must be clean.

(6) Clean terminal contacts and contactor with crocus cloth.

(7) Thoroughly clean outside area of brush plate to remove all oil and dirt.

REPLACEMENT OF BRUSHES AND SPRINGS

(1)

Brushes that are worn more than

the length of new brushes, or are oil-soaked, should be replaced.

(2) When resoldering the shunt field and solenoid lead, make a strong low resistance connection using a high temperature solder and resin flux.

Do not use acid

or acid core solder.

Do not

break the shunt field wire when removing and installing brushes.

(3)

Measure brush spring tension with a spring scale hooked under the spring near the end. Pull scale on a line parallel to the edge of brush and take a reading just as spring end leaves the brush. Spring tension should be 32 to 36 ounces. Replace springs that do not meet specifications.

TESTING ARMATURE

Testing Armature for Short Circuit

Place armature in growler and hold a thin steel blade parallel to the core and just above it, while slowly rotating armature in growler. A shorted armature will cause blade to vibrate and be attracted to the core. Replace armature if shorted.

Testing Armature for Ground

Contact armature shaft and each of the commutator riser bars with a pair of test lamp test prods. If lamp lights, it indicates a grounded armature. Replace grounded armature.

Testing Commutator Run-Out,

Refacing and Undercutting

Place armature in pair of “V” blocks and measure runout with dial indicator. Measure both shaft and commutator. A bent shaft requires replacement of armature. When commutator runout exceeds .003 inch, commutator should be refaced. Remove only a sufficient amount of metal to provide a smooth, even surface.

Testing Field Coils for Ground

(1)

Remove field frame assembly from starter.

(2)

Carefully drill out the rivet attaching the series field coil ground lead and shunt field coil lead to field frame.

(3) Insulate field coil leads from field frame.

(4) Test for ground using a 110 volt test lamp.

Touch one probe of test lamp to series field coil lead and other probe to field frame. Lamp should not light.

Repeat the procedure for shunt field coil.

If lamp lights, it indicates that field coils are grounded and require replacement.

REPLACING THE FIELD COILS

A pole shoe impact screwdriver Tool C-3475 should be used to remove and install field coils to prevent damage to pole shoe screws and for proper tightening.

Pole shoes that are loose and not properly seated may cause armature core to rub on pole shoes. This will decrease starter efficiency and damage armature core.

Make sure area between the leads and starter frame i s clean. Peen new rivet securely to insure a good electrical contact.

SERVICING THE STARTER BUSHINGS

Inspect armature shaft bearing, pinion shaft surfaces and bushings for wear. Try the bushings for wear by inserting the shafts and test for side play.

Pre-sized starter bushings are available as service bushings. Use

Tool C-3944 to remove old bushings and install the new. No burnishings or reaming is required to fit pre-sired bushings.

The C-3944 Tool and its adaptors are designed to service all of the gear reduction motor bushings with the exception of the end head bushing. End head bushing and end head are serviced as an assembly.

Remove and install bushings as shown in Figures

through

16.

SERVICING THE STARTER CLUTCH UNIT

Do not immerse starter clutch unit in a cleaning solvent. Starter clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory

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STARTER-ELECTRICAL 8-13

7 1

NK74

REMOVING INSTALLING

Fig. 14-Removing and Installing

Pinion Housing End Bushing

and a solvent will wash lubricant from the clutch.

The starter clutch outer housing and pinion gear may be cleaned with a cloth moistened with a cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a clean dry cloth.

Rotate the pinion. Pinion gear should rotate smoothly in one direction (not necessarily easily), but should not rotate in opposite direction. If starter clutch unit does not function properly, or pinion is worn, chipped or burred, replace starter clutch unit.

REMOVING

RUSHING

INSTALLING

Fig. IS-Removing and Installing Pinion Housing

Drive Shaft Bushing

ASSEMBLING THE STARTER

The shifter fork consists of two spring steel plates assembled with two rivets. There should be approximately 1/16 inch side movement as shown in Figure

18 to insure proper pinion gear engagement. Lubri- cate between the plates sparingly with

SAE 10 engine oil.

(1)

Position shifter fork in drive housing and install shifting fork retainer pin. One tip of pin should be straight, other tip should be bent at a 15 degree angle away from the housing. The fork and retainer pin should operate freely after bending tip of pin.

(2) Install solenoid moving core and engage shifting fork (Fig. 12).

SP-3562

REMOVING

Fig. 16-Removing and Installing Pinion Housing Armature Shaft Bushing

BUSHING

NK76

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8-14

ELETRICAL-STARTER

MyMopar.com

5132-3116“

STARTER-ELECTRICAL

8-1 5

62x214

Fig. 18-Shifter F o r k Assembly

(3) Enter pinion shaft into drive housing and install friction washer and drive gear.

(4)

Install clutch and pinion assembly, thrust washer, retaining ring and thrust washer (Fig. 11).

(5)

Complete installation of pinion shaft engaging shifting fork with clutch actuators. Figure 19 shows correct relation of parts at assembly.

T h e f r i c t i o n washer must be positioned o n shoulder o f splines o f t h e p i n i o n shaft before driven gear is positioned (Fig.

1).

SHIFTING FORK

A

Fig. 20-Checking H e i g h t of

Solenoid C o i l

Retainer Tangs the small hole.

Inspect condition o f starter solenoid switch contacting washer, if t o p o f washer is burned f r o m arcing, disassemble contact switch plunger assembly a n d reverse t h e washer.

(11) Install solenoid contact plunger assembly into solenoid and reform double wires to allow for proper entry of terminal stud into brush holder with the double wires curved around the contactor.

CAUTION:

T h e contactor must not touch t h e double wires w h e n solenoid i s energized after assembly i s completed (Fig.

6).

M a k e sure contact spring i s positioned o n t h e shaft o f t h e solenoid contact plunger assembly.

(12) Assemble battery terminal stud in brush holder, placing sealing washer under plain washer.

Inspect condition o f t h e contacts in brmh holder plate.

If contacts are badly burned, replace brush holder with brushes and contacts as a n assembly.

Fig. 19-Shifter F o r k and Clutch A r r a n g e m e n t

(6) Install driven gear snap ring (Fig. 8).

(7)

Install pinion shaft retaining ring (Fig. 9).

(8)

Bend the four

(4)

a measurement of 5/32“ to 3/16” above surface

retainer (Fig. 20) to ensure higher compression and a more positive ground.

Space t h e retainer in housing bore so t h a t t h e f o u r tangs rest o n t h e ridge in housing bore and not in t h e recesses.

(9) Install starter solenoid return spring into bore of movable core.

(10) Install solenoid contact seal over solenoid lead wires, inserting double wires of terminal stud into large hole (Fig. 6) and solenoid winding lead wire into

BRUSH HOLDER-

BATTERY TERMINAL

N K78

Fig. 2 1-Assembly Solenoid to Brush Holder Plute

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8-1 6 ELECTRICAL-STARTER

~ ~~~~~ holder (Fig. 21) and install solenoid stud, insulating washer, flat washer and nut.

Use care when installing solenoid contact seal over tab on brush plate to prevent tearing the seal.

install attaching screw (Fig.

4).

Tighten screw to

10-15

inch-pounds. Make sure the insulating tape is in position (Fig.

4).

terminal post as shown in Figure

and solder securely with a high temperature resin core solder and resin flux.

BRUSH TERMINAL POST as shown in Figure

22.

This will hold brushes out and facilitate proper installation of armature. terminal (Fig.

24).

(18) Solder shunt coil lead wire to starter brush

TERMINAL

POST

Fig. 22-Soldering Solenoid Winding Lead t o Brush Terminal

assembly into bore of gear housing and position brush plate assembly into starter gear housing. Align tongue of ground terminal with notch in brush holder (Fig.

23).

SHUNT FIELD

COIL LEAD

Fig. 24-Soldering Shunt Coil Lead Wire

NK80

Fig. 23-fnstalling Solenoid and Brush Holder into Gear Housing

Fig. 25-Installing Starter Armature

:8 1

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ALTER NATOR-ELECTRICAL

8-1

(23)

Clean area at the joint between brush holder plate to field frame and gear housing mating joint.

Apply a bead of brush plate sealer Part NO.

2421847

around the four sides of the joint (Fig.

26).

CAUTION:

Sealer must be flowed continuously to avoid gaps. After the bead has been flowed on, use a brush or small paddle moistened in mineral spirits to press adhesive into the joint. Do not get adhesive on the battery and/or solenoid terminals.

MULTI-PURPOSE

SHORT FIBRE GREASE

Fig. 26-Sealing Brush Holder Plate

(19)

Install brush terminal screw (Fig.

2).

(20)

Position field frame to the exact position on gear housing and enter armature into field frame and starter gear housing (Fig.

25);

carefully engaging splines of shaft with reduction gear by rotating armature slightly to engage the splines.

(21)

Install thrust washer (fiber) and washer (steel) on armature shaft.

(22)

Position starter end head assembly and install starter frame lockwashers and through bolts. Tighten through bolts securely.

INSTALLING THE STARTER

(1)

Before installing the starter, make sure starter and flywheel housing mounting surfaces are free of dirt and oil to insure a good electrical contact.

(2)

Position starter to flywheel housing removable seal (if removed).

(3)

Install the starter, washer and bolt, the automatic transmission oil cooler tube bracket (if so equipped) and washer and nut.

When tightening attaching bolt and nut be sure to hold the starter pulled away from the engine to insure proper alignment.

cable to starter terminal.

(5)

Connect battery ground cable and test operation of the starter for proper engine cranking.

ALTERNATOR A N D VOLTAGE REGULATOR

Assembling the Alternator

Bench Tests

Field

Coil Draw Test

Testing Internal Field

Disassembling

Upper

Specifications the

General Information

Service Diagnosis

Alternator

...........................

Rectifier (Diode) Testing

Regulator Testing (Chrysler Built)

Lower Contact Test

Mechanical Adjustments

Contact Test

Lower Contact Test

.........................

Regulator Testing (Essex Wire)

Mechanical Adjustments

Upper Contact Test

Replacing Slip Rings

......................

.........................

.................................

Page

........................

Circuit for Ground

......

..................

......................

.........................

....................

................

....................

.........................

..........................

.............................

INDEX

Testing the Alternator

Current Output

Field

Field Current Draw

Fusible Wire

Voltage Regulator

Fusible Wire

Lower Contact

Test

System (On the

Vehicle)

.........................

Circuit Resistance Test

Test

Voltage Regulator (Chrysler

Lower Contact Test

Mechanical Adjustments

.....................

Ground Circuit Resistance Test

Insulated Circuit Resistance

Test

Built)

. .

................

...............

............

..............

................................

General Information

Upper Contact Test

....................

.........................

(Essex Wire)

General Information

Test

.........................

................

................................

.........................

Mechanical Adjustments

Upper Contact Test

Page

....................

.........................

GENERAL INFORMATION

The alternator (Fig.

is fundamentally an A.C. current generator, with

six (6)

built-in silicon rectifiers, that convert A.C. current into D.C. current. D.C. current is available at the “output” “BAT” terminal.

The main components of the alternator are the rotor, stator, rectifiers, the end shields and the drive pulley. (See Fig. 2.)

MyMopar.com

8-18 ELECTRICAL-ALTERNATOR

Condition

ALTERNATOR FAIL TO

CHARGE (No

Output)

LOW, UNSTEADY

CHARGING RATE

LOW OUTPUT AND

LOW BATTERY

EXCESSIVE CHARGING

RATE TO

FULLY

CHARGED BATTERY

REGULATOR CON-

TACTS BURNED

REGULATOR CONTACT

POINTS STUCK

NOISY

ALTERNA~OR

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible Cause Correction

Blown fusible wire in voltage regu- (a) Locate and correct cause of the fuse lator. blowing. Install new fuse wire. Solder both ends of new fusible wire se-

Alternator drive belt loose. curely.

(b) Adjust drive belt to Specifications.

Worn brushes and/or slip rings.

Sticking brushes.

Open field circuit.

Open charging circuit.

(d) Clean slip rings and brush holders.

Install new brushes if necessary.

(e) Test all the field circuit connections, and correct as required.

(f) Inspect a l l connections in charging circuit, and correct as required.

Open circuit i n stator windings.

Open rectifiers.

(g) Remove alternator and disassemble.

Test stator windings. Install new stator if necessary.

(h) Remove alternator and disassemble.

Test the rectifiers. Install new rectifiers if necessary.

Alternator drive belt loose. (a) Adjust alternator drive be:t.

High resistance at battery terminals. (b) Clean and tighten battery terminals.

High resistance i n charging circuit. (c) Test charging circuit resistance. Cor- rect as required.

High resistance i n body to engine (d) Tighten ground lead connections. ground lead. Install new ground lead if necessary.

Open stator winding. (e) Remove and disassemble alternator.

Test stator windings. Install new stator if necessary.

High resistance in charging circuit. (a) Test charging circuit resistance and correct as required.

Low regulator setting. (b) Reset voltage regulator to specifi-

Shorted rectifier. Open rectifier. cations.

(d) Grounded stator windings. rectifiers and install new rectifiers as required. Remove and disassemble the alternator.

(d) Remove and disassemble alternator.

Test stator windings. Install new stator if necessary.

(a) Regulator set too high. (a) Reset voltage regulator to specifications.

(b) Regulator contacts stuck. (b) Install new voltage regulator.

(d) Regulator base improperly grounded. (d) Connect regulator base to a good ground.

(a) High regulator setting.

(b) Shorted rotor field coil windings.

(a) Reset voltage regulator to specifications.

(b) Test rotor field coil current draw. If excessive install new rotor.

(a) Poor ground connection between al- (a) Correct ground connection. Install ternator and regulator. Open resistor new regulator. Test regulator setting, element. and reset if necessary.

(a) Alternator mounting loose.

(b) Worn or frayed drive belt.

(a) Properly install and tighten alternator mounting.

(b) Install a new drive belt and adjust to specifications.

Install new bearing as required.

MyMopar.com

ALTERNATOR-ELECTRICAL 8-19

Condition

EXCESSIVE AMMETER

OUTPUT TERMINAL

SCREW

(a)

HFAT S I N K

Possible Cause

Interference between rotor fan and stator leads or rectifiers.

Rotor or rotor fan damaged.

Open or shorted rectifier.

Open or shorted winding

High resistance in set voltage regulator. the field

TESTING T H E ALTERNATOR SYSTEM

(On the Vehicle Using Sun Volts-Amps Tester Model

VAT-SOD and Battery Post Adapter)

For the sake of uniformity, one type of equipment is shown. Follow the instructions of the equipment manufacturers on comparable equipment when making the following tests:

Preliminary Checks

(1)

Test the battery condition.

Perform reliable battery tests to determine condition and state of charge of the battery. If battery is defective or not fully charged, install a fully charged battery for test purposes.

(2) Test the alternator belt condition and tension.

Replace alternator drive belt if necessary and make sure there is adequate tension on the belt.

(3) Inspect condition of wires and their connections.

Before performing the test on the system, correct any problem with wiring, such as loose connections, corroded connections, burned wiring harness, etc.

Tester Controls and Switches

(1)

Set Polarity Switch to NEGATIVE position.

(2)

Set tester control knob to DIRECT position. circuit to the alternator or an improperly

GROUND BRUSH

Fig.

1-Alternator Assembly

RECTIFIERS

INSULATED

BRUSH

FIELD

TERMINAL

62x1 01 A

in stator.

Condition

Remove and disassemble alternator.

Correct interference a s required.

Remove and disassemble alternator.

Install new rotor.

Remove and disassemble alternator.

Test rectifiers. Install new rectifiers a s required.

Remove and disassemble alternator.

Test stator windings. Install new stator if necessary.

Clean and tighten all connections a s necessary. Adjust voltage regulator a s necessary.

(3)

Set voltage switch to

VOLT position.

(4) Set field control OPEN position.

Tester

Lead Connections (Fig.

3 )

(1)

Disconnect battery positive cable from battery post and install Battery Post Adapter By-Pass Switch between cable and post.

(2) Connect “BAT” lead of tester to stud on adapter.

(3)

Connect “REG” lead of tester to binding post on adapter.

(4) Connect “GRD” lead of tester to battery negative terminal.

(5) Connect negative lead of voltmeter to field terminal of regulator.

(6)

Connect positive lead of voltmeter to battery end of positive battery cable.

Battery Post Adapter BY-PASS SWITCH must be open for all charging system tests. I t i s closed only for starting the engine.

Field

Circuit Resistance Test (Fig. 4 )

(1)

Disconnect slip-on connector from either end of ignition ballast resistor.

(2)

Turn ignition switch on.

(3)

With vehicle doors closed and all accessories turned off, observe Voltmeter reading. Voltage should not exceed

.55 volt. A reading in excess of

.55 volt indicates high resistance in field circuit between battery and voltage regulator field terminal.

(4) If high resistance is indicated, move negative voltmeter lead to each connection along circuit towards battery. A sudden drop in voltage indicates a loose or corroded connection between that point and last point tested. To test terminals for tightness, attempt to move the terminal while observing voltmeter. Any movement of meter pointer indicates looseness.

Excessive resistance in the regulator wiring circuit will cause fluctuation in the ammeter, or a below normal charging rate.

Field

Current Draw Test (Fig. 4 )

With tester connections positioned as for the Field

MyMopar.com

8-20 ELECTRICAL-ALTERNATOR

SHIELD

INSULATOR

SPACER

I NSU

A T 0

SHIELD

BEARING

RETAINER-

BEARING

WASHER

SCREW

NYLON

WASHER

Fig. 2-Alternator (Disassembled V i e w )

62 x

2408

\‘A

64 x

472

Fig. 3-Tester Lead Connections

Circuit Resistance Test, observe test ammeter. Test ammeter will indicate field current draw. Refer to

“Specifications.”

Current Output Test (Fig.

(1)

5 )

With ignition switch off, disconnect the field wire from the “FLD” terminal of the alternator and at the regulator.

64x473A

Fig. 4-Field Circuit Resistance and Field Current

Draw Test

(2)

Connect one of the test leads of tester Field

Control to “FLD” terminal of alternator.

(3)

Connect other lead of Tester Field Control to

“BAT” terminal of alternator.

(4) Set Tester Voltage Switch to 16 VOLT position.

(5)

Connect. positive lead

“BAT” terminal of alternator. of test Voltmeter to

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ALTERNATOR-ELECTRICAL 8-21

ADAPTER

64x474A

Fig. 5-Current Output

T e s t

(6)

Connect negative lead of the Test Voltmeter to battery negative post.

(7) Reconnect slip-on connector at ignition ballast resistor.

(8)

Close BY-PASS Switch of Battery Post Adapter.

(9) With tester Field Control in OPEN position, start engine and adjust to

1250

RPM.

(10)

Open BY-PASS Switch of Battery Post Adapter.

(11)

Rotate tester Control Knob to LOAD position until Voltmeter reads

volts.

(12)

Rotate tester

Field Control to DIRECT position and adjust tester Control Knob until Voltmeter reads exactly

volts.

(13)

Observe test ammeter. Ammeter now indicates maximum output of alternator. Current output should be within limits shown in “Specifications.”

Current output should be within

S amperes of rated output as there is a total of 5 amperes supplied by the alternator that will not appear on test ammeter. This consists of

1/2 ampere approximate for the instruments,

11/2 amperes for the engine ignition system, and 3 amperes for field current.

If output is slightly less

to 7 amperes) than that specified above, it may be an indication of a possible

“open” rectifier or other alternator internal problems. If output is considerably lower than that specified above, it may be an indication of a possible

“shorted” rectifier or other alternator internal problems. In either case the alternator should be removed and tested on the bench before disassembly.

(14)

Return tester Field Control to OPEN position.

(15)

Return tester Control Knob to DIRECT position.

lnsulated Circuit Resistance Test (Fig.

6 )

(1)

Connect negative lead of Voltmeter to battery end of positive battery cable.

(2)

Set Voltage Switch to

VOLT position.

64x475A

Fig. 6-Insulated Circuit Resistance Test

(3)

Adjust Field Control until tester ammeter reads exactly

amperes.

(4)

Observe voltmeter reading. Voltmeter now indicates amount of voltage loss across insulated circuit.

Voltage loss should not exceed

volt. If higher voltage loss is indicated, inspect, clean and tighten all connections in charging circuit. A voltage loss test may be performed at each connection to locate the connection that has excessive resistance.

Ground Circuit Resistance Test (Fig.

7 )

(1)

Connect positive lead of test voltmeter to negative terminal of battery.

(2)

Connect negative lead of test voltmeter to a good ground on the alternator.

(3)

With alternator charging

10 amps, observe voltmeter reading. Voltmeter now indicates amount of voltage loss across ground circuit. Voltage loss should not exceed

volt.

(4)

Rotate tester Field Control to OPEN position.

ADAPTER

64x476A

Fig. 7-Ground Circuit Resistance Test

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8-22

E LECTR

CAL-VO LTAG

E

R E

G U LATO R

GENERAL INFORMATION

VOLTAGE REGULATOR

(CHRYSLER BUILT)

The only function of the regulator is to limit the output voltage. The voltage regulator accomplishes this by controlling the flow of current in the rotor field coil, and in effect controls the strength of the rotor magnetic field.

The voltage regulator is connected in the field circuit between the battery and the field terminal of the alternator. One terminal of the regulator is marked

.“IGN” and the other is marked “FLD.” The “IGN” terminal of the regulator is connected to the coil side of the ignition switch so that the field circuit is completed

only

when the ignition switch is turned “ON.” armature.

When battery line voltage is relatively low, the current flow through the voltage coil will be low. The magnetic force (or pull) of the voltage coil will not be great enough to overcome the regulator armature spring tension which is holding the armature contact against the upper stationary contact, (Fig.

8).

ADJUSTABLE

LOWER

CONTACT

Fig. 9-Voltage Regulator Fusible Wires

NK109

Fig. 8-Voltage Regulator (Cover Removed)

The voltage regulator (Fig.

has two sets of contacts using a common single armature. The upper and lower stationary contact brackets are mounted on a molded plastic bracket which is attached to the regulator frame by a screw (Fig. 9). The upper contact bracket is connected to the “IGN” terminal by a fusible wire. The lower contact bracket is connected to ground by another fusible wire. The armature is connected to the insulated “FLD” terminal.

Three resistance units used (Fig. 10). Resistor number “one” and number “two” are connected between the “IGN” and “FLD” terminals, in parallel with the upper set of contacts. Resistor number

“three” is connected between “FLD” terminal and ground. Its function is to reduce arcing at regulator contacts.

A voltage coil, (Fig.

consisting of many turns of fine wire, is connected in series between the “IGN” terminal of the regulator and “ground.” Thus, when ignition switch is turned “On,” battery voltage applied to the windings energizes the coil and the magnetic force of coil tends to attract the regulator

IGNITION

NK110A

Fig. IO-Voltage Regulator Resistance Units

MyMopar.com

+ the field circuit resistance is low, and maximum current will flow through the rotor field coil. The rotor field strength will be high, and the alternator output will be at its maximum for any rotor speed.

As the battery line voltage increases, the magnetic pull of the voltage coil overcomes the armature spring tension, and “opens” the upper contacts. The armature contacts at this time do not touch either the upper or lower stationary contacts. Field current now flows through the regulator “IGN” terminal, through resistance number one and number two, through the

“FLD” terminal, and through the rotor field to ground.

The two resistors, in series with the field circuit, reduce field current and rotor field strength, with a corresponding reduction in alternator output voltage.

This momentarily reduces battery line voltage applied to the regulator voltage coil. The regulator armature spring tension overcomes the magnetic pull of the voltage coil, closing the upper contacts.

When the electrical load requirements are relatively high, the regulator armature oscillates, opening and closing the upper contacts. This alternately “puts in” and “takes out” resistance in the field circuit, and in effect limits the alternator output voltage.

(3)

When the electrical load requirements are low and the engine speed is high, the alternator output voltage tends to increase. The battery line voltage

(now slightly increased) causes the regulator voltage coil magnetic force to pull the armature contact against the regulator lower stationary contact.

Field current flow is now through the regulator

“IGN” terminal, resistors number one and number two, to the regulator “FLD” terminal. Since the regulator armature is connected to the “FLD” terminal and the lower contacts are closed, the current path is through the regulator armature to the movable contact and then through the lower contact to ground.

This is because the resistance to ground is less than the alternator field coil resistance.

By-passing the alternator field coil will cause the alternator output voltage and the battery line voltage to drop. This reduction in voltage will reduce the magnetic pull of the regulator voltage coil, to the extent that it cannot hold the armature contact against the stationary lower contact.

The armature moves into a “no contact” position between the upper and lower stationary contacts. This momentarily allows the field current to flow through resistors number one and number two, and through the rotor field coil to ground. At high engine speed and low electrical load operation, the armature oscillates between the “no contact” position, and contact with the lower stationary contact, to limit the battery line voltage.

VOLTAGE REGULATOR-ELECTRICAL 8-23

VOLTAGE REGULATOR TEST

(With VAT-20D Tester) (Fig. 11)

Regulator Temperature should be operating with a

10 ampere load for normalized by

15 minutes just prior to testing.

Tester Controls and Switches

(1)

Set Polarity Switch to NEGATIVE position.

(2)

Set Tester Control Knob to DIRECT position.

(3)

Set Voltage Switch to 2 VOLT position.

(4)

Set Field Control to OPEN position.

Tester Lead Connections

(1)

Disconnect battery positive cable from battery post and install BATTERY POST ADAPTER between

64x477A

Fig. 1 1 -Voltage Regulator Test

(2)

Connect “BAT” lead of tester to stud on adapter.

(3)

Connect

“REG” lead of tester to binding post on adapter.

(4)

Connect “GRD” lead of tester to battery negative terminal.

THE BATTERY

POST

ADAPTER BY-PASS SWITCH must be open for all charging system tests. It is closed for starting the engine.

Upper Contacts Test

(1) With ignition switch turned off, disconnect field wire from “FLD” terminal of alternator.

(2)

Connect one of the test leads of Tester Field

Control to “FLD” terminal of alternator.

(3)

Connect other lead of Tester Field Control to field wire disconnected from alternator “FLD” terminal.

(4)

Set Tester Voltage Switch to

VOLT position.

“BAT” terminal of alternator.

(6)

Connect negative lead of Test Voltmeter to bat-

MyMopar.com

8-24 E LECTR I CAL-VO LTAG

REG U LATO R

tery negative terminal.

+ position.

( 8 )

With engine operating at 1250 RPM, rotate tester Control Knob clockwise until Ammeter reads exactly 15 amperes.

(9) Rotate tester Field Control from DIRECT position to OPEN position and then back to DIRECT position to cycle the system.

(10) Observe test voltmeter. Voltmeter now indicates setting of the voltage regulator upper contacts.

Refer to “Specifications.”

(11) Rotate tester Control Knob to DIRECT position. If regulator operates within specifications, proceed to lower contact voltage test. If upper contact voltage setting is not within specifications, remove regulator cover and adjust voltage setting as outlined in “Regulator Adjustments” test number

(1).

Lower Contacts Test

(1)

Increase engine speed to 2200 RPM.

(2) Rotate tester Control Knob to

34

OHM position only if tester Ammeter reads over 5 amperes.

(3)

Rotate tester Field Control from DIRECT position to OPEN position and then back to DIRECT position to cycle the system.

(4) Observe the voltmeter. Voltmeter now indicates setting of voltage regulator lower contacts. Refer to specifications.

Voltage should increase not less than .2 volt or more than

volt above previous operating voltage setting recorded in the upper contact test. A voltage reading of less than

volt or more than

volt is an indication of a possible wrong air gap setting, refer to

“Regulator Mechanical Adjustments.”

(b) If there are no defects in the charging system or in the battery and the battery was found to be in a low state of charge, increase setting by

volt (do not exceed specified voltage limits) and retest for an improved battery condition after a reasonable service period (week or two). If battery state of charge has increased to a satisfactory level, do not change voltage setting. If battery shows evidence of over-charge-

(low electrolyte level, high water consumption, excessive dampness on top of battery), decrease setting by

volt and retest for an improved battery condition after a reasonable service period (week or two).

CAUTION: Always adjust settings in steps not to exceed

.3 volt at a time. limits.)

(c) The proper setting of the voltage regulator is attained when the battery remains at least 1.225 specific gravity in the winter or 1.245 specific gravity in the summer, with a minimum water requirement (not more than an ounce of water per cell per one thousand miles).

Regulator Mechanical Adjustments

Step l-Adjust upper contact voltage setting as necessary by bending the regulator lower spring hanger

down

increase

voltage setting,

decrease

voltage setting. Use an

insulated tool

to bend the spring hanger (Fig. 12). Regulator must be installed, correctly connected, and retested after each adjustment of lower spring hanger. and Control Knob to DIRECT position.

Upon completion of test, reduce engine speed to idle, stop engine, and disconnect all test leads and adaptors. Be sure that all vehicle’s cables and wiring connections are secure before restarting engine.

CAUTION: Be sure negative post of battery i s always connected to ground. Incorrect battery polarity may result in wiring harness damage and may damage alternator rectifiers.

Do not ground alternator field circuit, as this may damage regulator.

Adjusting the Voltage Setting t o

Driving Conditions

Specifications called for in the voltage regulator chart indicate a tolerance of one volt from the low setting to high setting at the temperatures indicated.

To maintain battery in a full state of charge, the voltage regulator should be adjusted to provide proper voltage limiting setting according to customer’s driving and load requirement habits as follows:

(a) Check entire charging system and battery as outlined in this Service Manual.

-.

Fig. 12-Adjusting the Spring Tension

108

If repeated readjustment is required, it is permissible to use a jumper wire to ground the regulator base to the fender splash shield for testing, in lieu of rein-

MyMopar.com

VOLTAGE REG

LATO R-E LECTRCIAL 8-25

stalling the regulator each time. However, it is important that the regulator cover be reinstalled, regulator connections correctly connected, and regulator satisfactorily insulated by the fender cover to prevent grounding regulator terminals or resistances. When testing, regulator must be at the same attitude (or angle) as when installed on vehicle. If step (1) under

“Mechanical Adjustments” does not bring voltage regulator within specifications, proceed to Step (2) following:

Step 2-Measure lower contact point gap. Lower contact gap should be

.014 inch plus or minus .002 inch. Adjust lower contact gap as necessary by bending lower stationary contact bracket making sure contacts are in alignment.

If lower contact gap is correct and voltage regulator setting is still outside the .2 to

volt increase, adjust air gap as follows:

(a) Connect a small dry cell test lamp in series with the “IGN” and “FLD” terminal of voltage regulator.

(b) Insert an

.048

tor armature and core of the voltage coil next to stop pin on armature (Fig. 13).

PIN GAUGE

Fig. 13-Testing the

Air

Gap

N K 1 1 1

open

and test lamp should be

dim.

(d) Insert an .052 inch wire gauge between armature and voltage coil core, next to the stop pin on armature.

(e) Press down on armature until it contacts wire gauge. Upper contacts should remain

closed

and test lamp should remain

bright.

If an adjustment is required to obtain the difference between the upper contact voltage and lower contact voltage of .2 volt to

volt; adjust the air gap by loosening the stationary contact bracket screw and moving bracket up or down as necessary to obtain proper air gap setting as follows:

If difference is above

volt, reduce air gap to a minimum of

.045

inch with contacts open and test lamp dim. At

.048

inch contacts should close and test lamp should be bright.

If the difference is below .2 volt, increase air gap to a maximum of .055 inch with contacts closed and test lamp bright. At .052 inch contacts should be open and test lamp should be dim.

Make sure air gap is checked with stationary contact bracket attaching screw fully tightened.

Voltage Regulator Fusible W i r e Replacement

(1) Cut fuse wire above solder connection at the base and unwind wire at top bracket.

CAUTION: If an attempt is made to unsolder the old fuse, the very small wire from voltage coil may be damaged.

(2) Tin end of fuse wire.

Use resin core solder only.

(3) Holding tinned end of new fuse wire into recessed rivet at base of regulator and against the old piece of fuse wire that remains, cause a drop of solder from a soldering iron to fall on these parts. Allow solder to cool sufficiently for fuse wires to make a good solder joint.

(4) Pull new fuse wire up enough to remove slack and wrap it around the bracket. Solder coiled wire to the bracket and cut off surplus fuse wire.

The original fuse wire i s machine wound on the upper bracket. Replacement fuse should be soldered to the bracket to ensure a good electrical contact.

VOLTAGE REGULATOR

(ESSEX

BUILT)

GENERAL INFORMATION

The voltage regulator is connected in the field circuit between the battery and the field terminal of the alternator. One terminal of the regulator is marked

“IGN” and the other is marked “FLD.” The “IGN” terminal of the regulator is connected to the coil side

MyMopar.com

8-26 E LECTR

CAL-VO LTA G E REG

LATO R

of the ignition switch so that the field circuit is completed

only

when the ignition switch is turned “ON.”

The voltage regulator has two sets of contacts moving with the regulator armature (Fig.

14).

The common upper and lower stationary contacts are mounted

UPPER CONTACT

IGNITION

LOWER CONTACT

FLEXIBLE WIRE

SOLDERING POINTS

VOLTAGE COIL

SOLDERING POINTS NN334

Fig. 14-Voltage Regulator (Cover Removed)

on a bracket which is attached to but insulated from the regulator frame. The lower contact mounted on the armature is connected to the “IGN” terminal. The upper contact, mounted on the armature, but insulated from it, is connected to ground by a flexible wire. The stationary contacts are connected to the

“FLD” terminal by a fusible link (Fig.

15).

ARMATURE

SPRl

ADJUSTMENT

CONTACT ARM

NN335

Fig. 15-Voltage Regulator Fusible W i r e

Four resistance units are used (Fig.

16).

Resistor number “one” and number “two” are connected between the “IGN” and “FLD” terminals, in parallel with the lower set of contacts. Resistor number

“Three” is connected between the “FLD” terminal and ground. Its function is to reduce arcing a t the regulator contacts.

FIELD

TERMINAL

NCE

UNITS

NN336

Fig. 16-Voltage Regulator Resistance Units

voltage coil, (Fig.

14)

fine wire, is connected in series with resistor number

“four” between the “IGN” terminal of the regulator and “ground.” Thus, when the ignition switch is turned “ON,” battery voltage applied to the windings energizes the coil and the magnetic force of the coil tends to attract the regulator armature.

When the battery line voltage is relatively low, the current flow through the voltage coil will be low. The magnetic force (or pull) of the voltage coil will not be great enough to overcome the regulator armature spring tension, which is holding the armature contact against the lower stationary contact (Fig.

14).

Battery line voltage applied to the “IGN” terminal causes current to flow through the regulator upper contacts, through the “FLD” terminal of the regulator and to the “insulated” brush and rotor slip ring. The rotor field coil circuit is completed to “ground” through the other rotor slip ring and the “ground” brush. Inasmuch as the upper contacts are “closed,” the field circuit resistance is low, and maximum current will flow through the rotor field coil. The rotor field strength will be high, and the alternator output will be at its maximum for any rotor speed.

the battery line voltage increases, the magnetic pull of the voltage coil overcomes the armature spring tension, and “opens” the lower contacts. The stationary contacts at this time do not touch either the upper or lower armature contacts. Field current now flows through the regulator “IGN” terminal, through resistance number “one” and number “two,” through the “FLD” terminal, and through the rotor field ground.

The two resistors, in series with the field circuit, reduce field current and rotor field strength, with a corresponding reduction in alternator output voltage.

This momentarily reduces battery line voltage applied to the regulator voltage coil. The regulator armature spring tension overcomes the magnetic pull of the

MyMopar.com

VOLTAGE REG U LATOR-ELECTRICAL 8-27

voltage coil, closing the lower contacts.

When the electrical load requirements are relatively high, the regulator armature oscillates, opening and closing the lower contacts. This alternately “puts in” and “takes out” resistance in the field circuit, and in effect limits the alternator output voltage.

When the electrical load requirements are low and the engine speed is high, the alternator output voltage tends to increase. The battery line voltage (now slightly increased) causes the regulator voltage coil magnetic force to pull the grounded armature contact against the regulator upper stationary contact. The

“FLD” terminal is now connected to ground.

Field current flow is now through the regulator

“IGN” terminal, resistors number one and number two, to the regulator “FLD” terminal, and hence to ground. This is because the resistance to ground is less than the alternator rotor field coil resistance.

By-passing the alternator field coil will cause the alternator output voltage and the battery line voltage to drop. This reduction in voltage will reduce the magnetic pull of the regulator voltage coil, to the extent that it cannot hold the armature contact against the stationary upper contact.

The armature moves into a “no-contact” position about the upper and lower stationary contacts. This momentarily allows the field current to flow through resistors number one and number two, and through the rotor field coil to ground. At high engine speed and low electrical load operation, the armature oscillates between the “no contact” position, and contact with the upper stationary contact, to limit the battery line voltage.

VOLTAGE REGULATOR TEST

(With VAT-20D Tester) (Fig. 11)

Regulator temperature should be normalized by operating with a

10 ampere lead for 15 minutes just prior to testing.

Tester Controls and Switches

(1)

Set Polarity Switch to NEGATIVE position.

(2) Set Tester Control Knob to DIRECT position.

(3)

Set Voltage Switch to

VOLT position.

(4)

Set Field Control to OPEN position.

Tester Lead Connections

(1) Disconnect battery positive cable from battery post and install BATTERY POST ADAPTER between cable and post.

(2) Connect “BAT” lead of Tester to stud on adapter.

(3)

Connect “REG” lead of Tester to binding post on adapter.

(4)

Connect “GRD” lead of Tester to battery negative terminal.

THE BATTERY POST ADAPTER BY-PASS SWITCH must be open for all charging system tests. It is closed for starting the engine.

Lower Contacts Test

(1)

With ignition switch turned off, disconnect field wire from “FLD” terminal of alternator.

(2) Connect one of the test leads of Tester Field

Control to “FLD” terminal of alternator.

(3)

Connect other lead of Tester Field Control to field wire disconnected from alternator “FLD” terminal.

(4)

Set Tester Voltage Switch to 16 VOLT position.

(5)

Connect positive lead of Tester Voltmeter to

“BAT” terminal of alternator.

(6)

Connect negative lead of Tester Voltmeter to battery negative terminal.

(7)

Rotate Tester Field Control to the DIRECT position.

(8)

With engine operating at 1250 RPM, rotate

Tester Control Knob clockwise until Ammeter reads exactly 15 amperes.

(9)

Rotate Tester Field Control from DIRECT position to OPEN position and then back to DIRECT position to cycle the system.

(10) Observe Tester Voltmeter. Voltmeter now indicates setting of voltage regulator upper contacts.

Refer to “Specifications.”

(11)

Rotate Tester Control Knob to DIRECT position. If regulator operates within specifications, proceed to lower contact voltage test. If upper contact voltage setting is not within specifications, adjust voltage setting as outlined in “Regulator Adjust- ments” test number

(1).

Upper Contact T e s t

(1)

Increase engine speed to

2200

RPM.

(2) Rotate Tester Control Knob to

1/4

OHM position only if Tester Ammeter reads over 5 amperes.

(3)

Rotate Tester Field Control from the DIRECT position to the OPEN position and then back to the

DIRECT position to cycle the system.

(4)

Observe voltmeter. Voltmeter now indicates setting of the voltage regulator upper contacts. Refer to specifications.

Voltage should increase not less than .2 volt or more than

volt above previous operating voltage setting recorded in lower contact test. A voltage reading of less than .2 volt or more than

volt is an indication of a possible wrong air gap setting, refer to

“Regulator Mechanical Adjustments.”

(5)

Rotate Tester Field Control to OPEN position and Control Knob to DIRECT position.

CAUTION: Be sure the negative post of battery is always connected to ground. Incorrect battery polarity may result in wiring harness damage and may damage alternator rectifiers. Do not ground alter-

MyMopar.com

8-28 ELECTR ICAL-VO LTAG E REGULATOR

nator field circuit, as this may damage the regulator.

Adjusting the Voltage Setting t o

Driving Conditions

Specifications called for in the voltage regulator chart indicates a tolerance of one volt from the low setting to the high setting at the temperatures indicated.

To maintain the battery in a full state of charge, the voltage regulator should be adjusted to provide proper voltage limiting setting according to the customer’s driving and load requirement habits as follows:

(1) Check entire charging system and battery as outlined in this Service Manual.

(2)

If there are no defects in the charging system or in the battery and the battery was found to be in a low state of charge, increase setting by

volt and retest for an improved battery condition after a reasonable service period (week or two).

CAUTION: Always adjust settings in steps not to exceed

.3 volt at a time.

(Do not exceed specified voltage limits.)

(3)

The proper setting of the voltage regulator is attained when battery remains at least

1.225

specific gravity in the winter or

1.245

specified gravity in the summer, with a minimum water requirement (not more than an ounce of water per cell per one thousand miles).

Regulator Mechanical Adjustments

Step

One-Adjust lower contact voltage setting as necessary by turning the adjustment screw (Figs.

and

17)

clockwise to increase voltage or counterclockwise to decrease voltage.

Step

Two-Measure upper contact point gap.

Up-

per contact gap should be

.014

inch, plus or minus

.004

inch. Adjust upper contact gap as necessary by bending armature upper contact bracket (Fig.

18),

making sure contacts are in alignment.

Fig. 18-Bending Upper Contact

Arm

NN338

Fig. 19-Bending Stationary Contact

Arm

NN339

TOOL

ADJUSTMENT OPENING

NN337

Fig. 17-Lower Contact Voltage Adjustment Fig. 20-Testing Air Gap

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If upper contact gap is correct and voltage regulator setting is still outside the

volt increase, adjust air gap as follows:

If the difference is above

volt, reduce a i r gap by bending down the fixed contact bracket (Fig. 19).

If the difference is below .2 volt, increase air gap by bending fixed contact bracket up (Fig. 19).

(a) Connect a small dry cell test lamp in series with the “IGN” and “FLD” terminal of the voltage

ALTERNATOR-ELECTRICAL

8-29

pin on the armature (Fig.

20),

and press down on the armature until armature contacts wire gauge. Lower contacts should just open and dim. test lamp should be

.042

inch wire gauge cannot be inserted between the armature and voltage core.

(b) Insert a

.032

inch wire gauge between the regulator armature and core of voltage coil next to stop

Voltage Regulator Fusible W i r e Replacement

Install a new fuse wire. Solder both ends of a new fuse wire securely using only resin core solder.

ALTERNATOR SERVICE PROCEDURES

If alternator performance does not meet current output specifications limits, it will have to be removed and disassembled for further test and servicing.

(1)

Disconnect battery ground cable at battery negative terminal.

(2)

Disconnect alternator output “BATT” and field

“FLD” leads and disconnect ground wire.

(3)

Remove alternator mounting bolts and remove alternator, the cause of the ground at the first ground test was a grounded insulated brush.

(4)

Examine plastic insulator and screw. Screw is a special size and must not be substituted by another size.

(5)

Install insulated brush holder, terminal, insulated washer, shake proof washer and screw. If the parts were not assembled in this order of if wrong screw was used this could be the cause of the ground condition.

BENCH TESTS

Field Coil Draw

If alternator field coil draw has not been tested on vehicle it may be tested on test bench as follows:

(1)

Connect test ammeter positive lead to battery positive terminal of a fully charged battery. Connect test ammeter negative lead to field terminal of alternator. Connect a jumper wire to negative terminal of battery, and ground it to alternator end shield.

(2)

Slowly rotate alternator rotor by hand. Observe ammeter reading. Field coil draw should be

2.3

amperes to

2.7

amperes at 12 volts.

A low rotor coil draw is an indication of high resistance in field coil circuit, (brushes, slip rings, or rotor coil).

A higher rotor coil draw indicates possible shorted rotor coil or grounded rotor.

DISASSEMBLING T H E ALTERNATOR

To prevent possible damage to brush assemblies, they should be removed before proceeding with disassembly of the alternator. The insulated brush is mounted in a plastic holder that positions brush vertically against one of the slip rings.

(1)

Remove retaining screw lockwasher, insulated washer, and field terminal, and carefully lift plastic holder containing spring and brush assembly from end housing, (Figure

21).

(2)

The ground brush is positioned horizontally against remaining slip ring and is retained in a holder that is integral with end shield. Remove retaining

INSULATED

Testing Alternator lnternal Field Circuit for

Ground

(1)

To test internal field circuit for ground, remove ground brush. Touch one test prod from a

110

volt test lamp to the alternator insulated brush terminal and remaining test prod to end shield. If rotor assembly or insulated brush is not grounded, lamp will not light.

(2)

If lamp lights, remove insulated brush assembly

(noting how the parts are assembled) and separate the end shields by removing the three through bolts.

(3)

Again test by placing one of the test prods to a slip ring and remaining test prod to end shield. If lamp lights, rotor assembly is grounded and requires replacement. If lamp does not light after removing the insulated brush and separating the end shields,

106

Fig. 2 I-Removing

Installing Insulated Brush

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8-30

E LECTR

CA L-A LTE R NATO R

screw and lift clip, spring and brush assembly from end shield, (Figure

22).

CAUTION: Stator is laminated, do not burr stator or end shield.

GROUND BRUSH ASSEMBLY

$2;107A

Fig. 22-Removing or Installing Ground Brush

(3) Remove through bolts and pry between the stator and drive end shield with blade of a screwdriver, as shown in Figure 23. Carefully separate drive end shield, pulley and rotor assembly away from stator and rectifier shield assembly.

DRIVE END

Fig. 23-Separating Drive End Shield from Stator

Testing the Rectifiers with Tool C-3829

The Rectifier Tester Tool (2-3829 provides a quick, simple and accurate test of the alternator rectifiers without the necessity of disconnecting soldered rectifier leads. With alternator rectifier end shield separated from drive end housing proceed with rectifier tests as follows:

Positive Case Rectifier Test (Fig. 2 4 )

(a) Place alternator on an insulated surface. Con- nect test lead clip to the alternator (“BAT”) output terminal.

Fig. 24--Testing Positive Rectifiers

(b) Plug in Tool C-3829 power source lead into a

110 volt A.C. power supply. Touch exposed bare metal connections of each of the positive case rectifiers, with test prod.

CAUTION:

Do not break the sealing around rectifier lead wire. The sealing material is for protection against corrosion. Always touch test prod to exposed metal connection nearest rectifier.

The reading for satisfactory rectifiers will be

1% amperes or more. Reading should be approximately the same for the three rectifiers.

When two rectifiers are good and one is shorted, reading taken at the good rectifiers will be low, and reading at shorted rectifier will be zero. Disconnect lead to the rectifier reading zero and retest. The reading of the good rectifiers will now be within satisfactory range.

When one rectifier is open it will read approximately one ampere, and two good rectifiers will read within satisfactory range.

Negative Case Rectifier Test (Fig. 2 5 )

(a) Connect test lead clip to rectifier end housing.

(b)

Touch exposed connection

each of the negative case rectifiers with test prod.

Test specifications are the same, and test results will be approximately the same as for positive case rectifiers, except meter will read on opposite side of scale.

TESTING RECTIFIERS AND STATOR

(When Tool C-3829 is not available)

(a) Separate the three (3) stator leads at nection (Fig. 26).

Cut stator connection as close to connector as possible. If they are cut too short it may be difficult to get them together again for soldering.

(b) Test rectifiers with a 12 volt battery and a test lamp equipped with a number 67 bulb

candle power) by connecting one side of test lamp to positive

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TEST

NEGATIVE

CASE

PROD

ALTERNATOR-ELECTRICAL 8-31

NK106

GROUND LEAD

END HOUSING

Fig. 25-resting Negative Rectifiers

&”’

NK114

Fig. 2 7 4 e s t i n g Rectifiers with

Test L a m p

TO 110 VOLT

POWER SOURCE

W?OD

Fig. 26-Separating the Three S t a t o r Leads

Fig. 28-resting S t a t o r for Grounds battery post; other side of test lamp to a test probe with other test probe connected to the negative battery post.

Fig.

27).

(d) Reverse the probes, moving probe from rectifier outer case of rectifier wire, and the probe from rectifier wire to rectifier outer case.

If test lamp “lights” in one direction but does “not light” in other direction, rectifier is satisfactory. If lamp lights in “both directions,” r e c t i f i e r is “shorted.”

test lamp does “not light” in either direction, rectifier is “open.”

Possible cause o f a n open or b l o w n r e c t i f i e r i s a f a u l t y capacitor or a b a t t e r y t h a t has been installed in reverse polarity.

If b a t t e r y is installed p r o p e r l y a n d t h e rectifiers a r e open, test capacitor capacity-.50 m i c r o f a r a d (plus or m i n u s

20%).

(e) Unsolder rectifier leads from stator leads.

(f)

Test stator for grounds using a

110

volt test lamp (Fig.

28).

Use wood slats to insulate the stator from rectifier shield. Contact one prod of test lamp to stator pole frame, and contact the other prod to each of the three stator leads. Test lamp should

“not light.” If test lamp lights, stator windings are

“grounded.”

(g) Test stator windings for continuity, by contacting one prod of test lamp to a l l three stator leads at

(disconnected from rectifiers). Test lamp should

“light” when prod contacts each of the three leads. If lamp does not light stator winding is “open” (Fig.

29).

(h) Install a new stator if stator tested is “grounded” or “open.” If the rectifiers must be replaced unsolder the rectifier wire from the stator lead wire at the soldered joint.

Three rectifiers a r e pressed into t h e heat sink a n d t h r e e in e n d shield. W h e n r e m o v i n g rectifiers, it is necessary t o support e n d shield a n d / o r heat s i n k to prevent damage t o these castings.

(4) Cut lead at malfunctioning rectifier.

MyMopar.com

8-32 ELECTRICAL-ALTERNATOR

TEST LAMP

TOOL

NK113

Fig. 29-Testing Stator Windings for

Continuity in a vise and support end shield on clamp anvil under- rectifier to be removed (Fig. 30).

Support tool adapter

SP-3821 i s cut-away and slotted t o fit over wires and around bosses in end shield. M a k e sure bore o f tool completely surrounds rectifier during removal process.

FIXTURE

BEARll

Fig. 31-Removing t h e Pulley

2 x 1 1 0

Fig. 32-Disengaging B e a r i n g Retainer from e n d Shield

63x42

Fig. 30-Removing t h e Rectifiers

(6) Carefully apply pressure with tool pressure screw until support tool, rectifier end shield, and remover pin, and remover adapter are in alignment then press the rectifier out of end shield or heat sink.

Remove pulley with Puller Tool C-3615 or C-3934 and special adapters (Fig. 31).

(8)

Pry drive end bearing spring retainer from end shield with a screwdriver (Fig. 32).

(9) Support end shield and tap rotor shaft with a plastic hammer to separate rotor from end shield.

T h e new bearing i s lubricated w i t h a pre-determined amount o f special lubricant and does not re- q u i r e additional lubrication.

(10)

The drive end ball bearing is an interference fit with the rotor shaft. Remove bearing with puller

Tool C-3615 or C-3934 and adapters as follows:

(a) Position center screw of Tool on rotor shaft.

(b) Place thin lower end of adapters SP-3375 under bearing equally spaced with upper end of adapters around center screw.

CAUTION:

T h e tool sleeve must bottom o n bearings, otherwise adapters m a y be damaged.

(d) Turning center screw while holding outer body of the tool (Fig. 33) will withdraw bearing from rotor shaft.

(11)

Remove D.C. output terminal nuts and washers and remove terminal screw and inside capacitor.

T h e heat sink i s also h e l d in place by t h e terminal screw.

(12) Remove insulator (Fig. 34).

MyMopar.com

ALTERNATOR-ELECTRICAL 8-33

C-3770

TOOL

RETAl

6 2 x

112

Fig. 33-Removing Bearing from Rotor Shaft

Fig. 34-Removing Heat Sink Insulator

(13)

The needle roller bearing in rectifier end shield is a press fit. If necessary to remove rectifier end frame needle bearing, protect end shield by supporting shield with Tool C-3925 when pressing bearing out with Tool C-3770A (Fig. 35). Make sure notches in tool clear raised section of heat sink.

The new bearing i s prelubricated and no additional lubricant should be added, as an excessive amount of lubricant will contaminate the slip rings and cause premature brush and rotor failures.

REPLACING SLIP RINGS

Slip rings that are damaged can be replaced as follows:

(a) Cut through rotor grease retainer with a chisel and remove the retainer.

(b) Unsolder field coil leads at solder lugs (Fig. 36).

chisel (Fig. 37).

(d) Break insulator and remove the old ring.

(e) Clean away dirt and particles of old slip ring from rotor.

Fig. 35-Removing Rectifier End Shield Bearing

(f)

Scrape ends of field coil lead wires clean for good electrical contact.

(g) Scrape one end (about 3/16 inch) of a piece of bare wire (approx.

18 gauge) three inches long (to be used as a guide wire).

(h) Tin scraped area of guide wire with resin core solder. Lap tinned end of wire over field coil lead to the insulated ring and solder the two together.

(i) Position new slip ring carefully over guide wire and rotor shaft so wire will lay in slip ring groove

(Fig. 38). The groove in slip ring must be in line with insulated brush field lead to provide room for the lead without damagicg it.

(j)

Place installing Tool C-3900 over rotor shaft with guide wire protruding from slot in tool.

(k)

Position rotor, slip ring and tool assembly in an arbor press (Fig. 39). Pull up on guide wire being

GROUND

BRUSH RING

SOLDER LUG

SOLDER WITH

'ORE

SOLDER

~ N S U L A T E D

BRUSH RING

6 2 X 529

Fig. 36-Solder Points-Slip Ring

Installed

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8-34

E LECTR IC A L-A LTE R N A T 0 R

GUIDE

WIRE

OLD SLIP RING

CUT WITH

CHISEL

Fig. 37-Cutting Old Slip Rings

careful to guide insulated field lead into slip ring groove. While guiding insulated field lead through the groove, press slip ring on shaft. When slip ring is bottomed on rotor fan, the end of field lead (insulated brush ring) should be visible at solder lug (Fig.

36).

(1) Unsolder guide wire from insulated brush slip ring lead. Press field lead into solder lug and solder the lead to the lug with resin core solder.

CAUTION:

Be sure solder bead does not protrude beyond surface of plastic material. Do not use acid core solder as a short circuit may result and corrosion will definitely occur.

Fig. 39-Installing Slip Ring

(m) Coil ground brush ring field lead around solder lug and solder with resin core solder.

(n) Test slip rings for ground with a 110 volt test lamp by touching one test lead prod to rotor pole shoe and remaining prod to slip rings. Test lamp should not light. If lamp lights, slip rings are shorted to ground, possibly due to grounding insulated field lead when installing slip ring.

If rotor is not grounded, lightly clean slip ring surfaces with -00- sandpaper.

GUIDE

WIRE-

GUIDE WIRE

SOLDERED TO

SLIP

RING

? /

/ retainer on shaft with installer Tool

C-3921 40).

The retainer is properly positioned when the inner bore of installer tool bottoms on the rotor shaft.

ASSEMBLING T H E ALTERNATOR

(1) Check rectifier identification to make sure cor-

62x527

Fig. 38-Aligning Slip Ring w i t h Field W i r e and Guide W i r e

Fig. 40-installing Bearing Grease Retainer

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+ rect rectifier is being installed. Refer to Parts List for rectifier identification.

(2) Start rectifier squarely into mounting hole.

(3)

Support heat sink or rectifier end shield on installer adapter of Tool C-3928. With the installing adapter positioned on the rectifier, carefully apply pressure with tool pressure screw until the installer tool, rectifier, rectifier end shield or heat sink are in alignment and after determining that rectifier is started squarely in the casting, slowly apply pressure with tool pressure screw until you feel the collar of rectifier bottom against casting (Fig. 41).

ALTERNATOR-ELECTRICAL 8-35

fier wire and bend the loop snugly around stator lead to provide a good electrical and mechanical connection. Solder wires with resin core solder. Hold rectifier lead wire with pliers just below the joint while soldering (Fig. 42). Pliers will absorb heat from the soldering operation and protect rectifier.

A f t e r soldering, quickly cool soldered connection; touch a dampened cloth against it. This will a i d in f o r m i n g a solid joint.

(5) After soldering, stator leads must be pushed down into the slots that are cast into the end shield and cemented with MoPar Cement Part Number

2299314 or equivalent to protect the leads against possible interference with the rotor fans. Test each replacement rectifier to make certain rectifier was not damaged by the soldering or pressing operations.

(6)

Support end shield on Tool C-3925 so that notches in the support tool will clear the raised section of the heat sink and press the bearing into position with Tool SP-3381 (Fig. 43).

New bearings are pre-lubricated, additional lubrica- t i o n is not required.

63x44

Fig. 4

-Installing a Rectifier

M a k e sure installer support adapter f i t s square around t h e r e c t i f i e r i n n e r boss and that pressure is applied o n outer rim o f rectifier.

CAUTION:

N O T USE a hammer t o start rectifier i n t o i t s bore in end shield. DO N O T H A M M E R OR

SHOCK t h e rectifier in any manner as this w i l l frac- t u r e t h e thin silicon wafer in t h e rectifier causing complete rectifier failure.

(4) Clean the leads and mate stator lead with recti-

‘

L-”-I

63 x 7 2 a

Fig. 43-Installing Rectifier E n d Shield Bearings

STATOR LEAD

RECTIFIER LEAD

6 2 x 1 1 4 A

Fig. 42-Soldering Rectifier and Stator Leads install bearing retainer plate to hold bearing in place.

(8) Position bearing and drive end shield on rotor shaft and, while supporting base

rotor shaft, press bearing and shield into position on rotor shaft with arbor press and Tool C-3858 (Fig.

44).

CAUTION: M a k e sure bearing is installed squarely a t installation; otherwise, damage t o bearing w i l l result.

Press bearing o n rotor shaft until bearing contacts shoulder o n rotor shaft.

(9) Install pulley on rotor shaft. Shaft of rotor must be supported in a manner so all pressing force

on pulley hub and rotor shaft (Fig. 45).

Press pulley o n rotor shaft until pulley contacts inner race of d r i v e end bearing.

Do not exceed 6800 pounds pressure.

MyMopar.com

8-36

E LECTR IC A L-I

G N IT1 0 N

PRESSING TOOL\

ROTOR

6 2 x 1 1 6

Fig. 4 4 4 n d a l l i n g Drive End Shield and Bearings

(10) The alternators have the capacitor mounted internally. Make sure heat sink insulator is in place

(Fig.

34).

Install output terminal screw and capacitor through heat sink and end shield. lock nuts. tion then tighten lock nut.

(15)

Position rotor and end shield assembly on stator and rectifier end shield assembly. Align the through bolt holes in the stator, rectifier end shield and drive end shield.

(16) Compress stator and both end shields by hand and install through bolts, washers and nuts.

Fig.

45-Installing Alternotor Pulley

Place bronze terminal on plastic holder with tab terminal in the recess in plastic holder. of

(18)

Place nylon

washer

on the bronze terminal and install lockwasher and attaching screw.

(19) Install ground brush and attaching screw.

(20) Rotate pulley slowly by hand to be sure rotor fans do not hit the rectifiers, capacitor lead, and stator connections.

(21) Install alternator and adjust drive belt to specifications.

(22) Connect (output) “BAT” and (field) “FLD” leads and connect ground wire.

(23) Connect battery ground cable.

(24)

Start and operate engine, and observe alternator operation.

(25)

Test current output and adjust regulator voltage setting, if necessary.

IGNITION SYSTEM

Assembling t h e Distributor

Ballast Resistor

Bushing Wear Test

Coil-Ignition

...........................

.................................

Contact

Arm

Spring Tension Testing

Contact Dwell

............

................................

Distributor Lubrication

Page

....................

...............................

Contacts-Installing and Aligning

Disassembling the Distributor

..................

..............

........................

Distributor Advance Testing

Distributor Contacts

....................

...........................

Distributor, Assembling the

Distributor Contact Dwell

....................

......................

Distributor Resistance Test

Dwell Variation

....................

...............................

INDEX

Page

General Information

Idle R.P.M. Test

...........................

...............................

Ignition Coil

..................................

Ignition Timing

...............................

Installing and Aligning Contacts

Installing the Distributor

Removing the Distributor

...............

......................

Resistance Test-Distributor

Secondary Circuit Inspection

Service Diagnosis

Shaft and Bushing Wear Test

Spark Plugs

Specifications

Timing-Ignition

...................

..................

...................

.............................

..................................

................................

..............................

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IG N IT10 N-ELECTRICAL 8-37

GENERAL INFORMATION

The ignition system consists of two separate cir- primary wiring make up the low voltage primary

cir-

cuits. The battery, ammeter, ignition switch, ballast cuit. The secondary high voltage circuit includes the resistor, primary winding of the ignition coil, distrib- coil secondary winding, distributor cap and rotor, utor contacts and condenser, vehicle frame, and the spark plug cables, spark plugs and vehicle frame.

Condition

BURNED

PITTED

Dl STR I B UTOR

CONTACTS

IGNITION COIL

FA1 LURE

CONDENSER FAILURE

SERVlC E

D I

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Dirt or oil on contacts. (a) If the oil is on contact face, determine cause and correct condition.

Clean distributor cam of dirt and grease, apply a light film of distributor cam lubricant Part No. 1473595 to cam lobes; wipe off excess. See “Distri- butor Lubrication.” Replace contact

(b)

(f)

(g) Faulty ignition switch.

(h) set and adjust a s necessary.

Alternator voltage regulator setting

(b)

Test alternator voltage regulator too high.

(d)

Faulty coil.

(e)

Ballast resistor not nect the coil.

Wrong condenser or faulty condenser.

(f)

Test condenser and replace if

( i ) Touching of contacts with hands ( i ) Replace and adjust contacts. during installation. in circuit.

Bushings or distributor shaft worn.

Align and adjust contacts.

Recondition distributor. set-

(d)

Test and replace coil if necessary.

Replace and adjust contacts.

(e) Inspect conditions, and correctly con- neces- sary. Replace and adjust contacts.

(g) Replace ignition switch.

(h)

(a) Coil damaged by excessive heat from (a) Replace coil. Inspect condition of dis- engine. tributor contacts.

(b)

Coil case or tower cracked.

(b)

Replace coil.

(a) Normal fatigue. (a) Test and replace condenser. Inspect distributor contacts for pitting.

(b) Damaged by excessive engine heat or

(b)

Test and replace condenser. Inspect moisture. distributor contacts for pitting.

Secondary Circuit lnspection

SERVICE PROCEDURES

Check the high tension cable connections for good contact at the coil and distributor cap towers and at the spark plugs. The terminals should be fully seated.

The nipples and spark plug covers should be in good condition. The nipples should fit tightly on the coil cap towers and the spark plug covers should fit tight around the spark plug insulators. Cable connections that are loose will corrode and increase the resistance and permit water to enter the towers causing ignition malfunction.

To maintain proper sealing between the towers and the nipples, the cable and nipple assemblies should not be removed from the distributor or coil towers unless the nipples are damaged or cable testing indicates high resistance or broken insulation.

Clean the high tension cables with a cloth moistened with a non-flammable solvent and wipe dry. Bend cables to check for brittle or cracked insulation.

When testing the secondary cables for punctures and cracks with an oscilloscope follow the instructions of the equipment manufacturers.

If an oscilloscope is not available, the secondary cables can be tested as follows:

(a) Connect one end of a test probe to a good ground.

(b) Disconnect the cable at the spark plug end. In- sulate the cable end from grounding.

(c) With engine running, move test probe along entire length of wire. If punctures or cracks are present there will be a noticeable spark jump from the faulty area to the probe. Secondary coil wire may

MyMopar.com

8-38

E

ECT

I

L-I

N

be checked in the same manner, be sure one spark plug cable is disconnected from spark plug while running probe along coil wire secondary cable.

Cracked, leaking or faulty cables should be replaced.

W h e n installing new cable assemblies, install t h e n e w high tension cable and nipple assembly over t h e cap o r coil tower, entering the terminal i n t o t h e tower, push lightly, t h e n pinch t h e large diameter of t h e nipple (Fig.

t o release t h e trapped a i r between t h e nipple and tower. Continue pushing o n t h e cable a n d n i p p l e until t h e cables are properly seated in t h e cap towers. Use t h e same procedure t o install t h e cable in t h e coil tower (Fig.

2).

Fig. I-Installing Secondary Cable and Nipple at

Distributor Cap Tower

Fig. 2-Installing Secondary Cable and

N i p p l e at

C o i l Tower

Use the following procedure when removing the high tension cable from the spark plug. First, remove the cable from the retaining bracket. Then grasp the cable by hand as close as possible to the spark plug and use a straight and steady pull (Fig. 3).

not use pliers a n d d o n o t pull t h e cable a t a n angle.

Doing

will damage the insulation, the cable terminal or the spark plug insulator.

W i p e t h e spark plug insulator

Fig. 3-Removing Spark P l u g Cable from Spark P l u g and Cover clean before reinstalling t h e cable and cover.

Resistance type cable is identified by the words

“Electronic Suppression” printed on the cable jacket.

No additional resistors are necessary.

Use an ohmmeter to check resistance type cable for open circuits, loose terminals of high resistance as follows:

(a) Remove the cable from the spark plug and install the proper adapter between the cable and the spark plug.

(b) Lift the distributor cap from the distributor with cables intact.

not remove the cables from t h e cap.

(c) Connect the ohmmeter between the spark plug adapter and the corresponding electrode inside the cap, making sure the ohmmeter probes are in good contact. If resistance is more than 30,000 ohms, remove the cable at the cap tower and check the cable resistance. If the resistance is more than 30,000 ohms, replace the cable assembly. Test all spark plug cables in the same manner.

To test the coil to distributor cap high tension cable, remove the distributor cap with the cable in tact.

Do

not remove t h e cable f r o m t h e coil o r cap.

Connect the ohmmeter between the center contact in the cap and either primary terminal at the coil. If the combined resistance of coil and cable is more than

25,000 ohms, remove the cable at the tower and check the cable resistance. If the resistance is more than

15,000 ohms, replace the cable. If the resistance is less, check for a loose connection at the tower or for a faulty coil.

Inspect the coil tower for cracks, carbon tracking or oil leaks.

DISTRIBUTOR RESISTANCE TEST

This test indicates the resistance of the ignition primary circuit from the distributor side of the coil, through the contacts and the distributor ground.

Ex-

cessive resistance in this portion of the ignition system will prevent the coil from producing sufficient output for good over-all ignition. To perform test, proceed as follows:

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I G N IT I 0 N-E LE CT R

C A L 8-39

(1)

Turn Selector Switch of a Tach-Dwell unit to

CALIBRATE position and adjust Dwell Calibrator until

Dwell Meter reads on the set line (test leads separated).

(2)

Leave Selector Switch in CALIBRATE position, connect Tach-Dwell red lead to distributor terminal of coil and black lead to a good ground.

(3)

Turn ignition switch “ON.” Observe dwell meter reading. Meter pointer should be well within bar marked “DISTRIBUTOR RESISTANCE.” If reading is zero or outside of bar, crank engine with starter until meter pointer moves as far to the right as possible. (This will indicate that contacts are closed.) A reading now within the bar indicates a normal distributor primary circuit.

If reading is outside the bar, high resistance is present in distributor primary circuit.

(4)

Remove test lead from distributor terminal of coil and connect to the following points:

(a) Distributor primary terminal (outside).

(b) Distributor primary terminal (inside).

(d) Ground side of contacts.

(e) Distributor housing.

(5) Repeat test at each connection until a noticeable change occurs in the meter reading. If a poor connection or faulty lead is indicated, clean, tighten o r replace as necessary and repeat test

(3).

If faulty contacts are indicated, remove distributor for complete inspection, service, testing and calibration.

IDLE RPM TEST

Engine idle rpm setting should be tested and recorded as it is when the vehicle is first brought into the shop for testing. This will assist in diagnosing complaints of engine stalling or complaints of creep- ing and hard shifting on vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions.

Test procedures are as follows:

(1)

Turn Selector Switch to CALIBRATE position and adjust Dwell Calibrator until Dwell Meter reads on the SET line (test leads separated).

(2) Connect red lead of test unit to distributor primary terminal at coil and black lead to a good ground.

(3)

Turn Selector Switch to

LOBE position.

(4)

Turn the Tach-Dwell Switch to the 1000 RPM position.

(5)

With engine at normal operating temperature

(off fast idle), momentarily open the throttle and release to make sure there is no bind in the linkage and that idle speed screw is against its stop.

(6) Note engine RPM on 1000 RPM scale and adjust carburetor idle speed to specifications shown in “Fuel

System Specifications.”

DISTRIBUTOR CONTACT DWELL

The degrees of distributor dwell are the degrees of rotation through which the contacts remain closed.

This is also commonly referred to as “dwell angle” or

“cam angle.”

Correct distributor contact dwell is essential for good ignition performance and contact life.

Test procedures are as follows:

(1)

Connect the Tach-Dwell red lead to distributor terminal of coil and black lead to a good ground.

(2)

Turn Selector Switch to

LOBE position.

(3)

Start engine and operate engine at idle speed.

(4)

Observe dwell meter reading. If dwell reading is within “Specifications” contact gap, cam rubbing block and contact arm are all in satisfactory condition.

If dwell reading is not within specifications, incorrect contact gap, worn cam, worn rubbing block or distorted movable contact arm may be indicated.

DWELL VARIATION

This test indicates the mechanical condition of the distributor. Excessive wear in distributor mechanical parts causes dwell variations which will affect ignition timing.

Test procedures are as follows:

(1)

With engine at idle speed, vacuum hose disconnected, and with test leads connected as in the contact Dwell Test, turn the Tach-Dwell RPM Switch to the 5000 RPM position.

(2) Slowly increase engine speed to 1500 RPM, then slowly reduce to idle speed while observing dwell meter reading.

If dwell reading varies more than 2 degrees from initial reading between idle speed and 1500 RPM, probable wear in the distributor shaft, bushings or contact plate bearing or pivot pin is indicated. Re- move distributor for complete inspection and testing on a distributor tester.

Dwell variation at speeds above

1500 rpm does not necessarily indicate distributor wear.

IMPORTANT: Dwell and gap of contacts must both be within their specified tolerance at the same time. I f this cannot be accomplished, it is probable that wrong contacts are inshlled, rubbing block or the cam lobes are badly worn, or the movable contact is distorted.

IGNITION TIMING

To obtain maximum engine performance, the distributor must be correctly positioned on the engine to give proper ignition timing.

The ignition timing test will indicate the timing

the spark at

No.

cylinder at idle (only).

Test procedures are as follows:

(1)

Disconnect vacuum hose at distributor.

(2)

Connect secondary lead of Power Timing Light to No.

spark plug, red primary lead to positive terminal of battery and black primary lead to negative battery terminal.

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Do not puncture cables, boots or nipples with test probes. Always use proper adapters. Puncturing the spark plug cables with a probe will damage the cables.

The probe can separate the conductor and cause high resistance. In addition breaking the rubber insulation may permit secondary current to arc to ground.

(3)

Start engine and set idle to “Specifications”

(Transmission in Neutral). enough so moun ting. distributor housing can be rotated in its

(5) Aim Power Timing Light at timing plate on chain case cover. If light flash occurs when timing mark on vibration damper is located ahead of specified “BTC” mark on timing plate in the direction

engine rotation, timing is advanced. To adjust, turn distributor housing in direction of rotor rotation.

If flash occurs when the vibration timing mark is located past the specified “BTC” mark in the direction of engine rotation, timing is retarded. To adjust, turn distributor housing against direction of rotor rotation. Refer to “Specifications.” (Moving the distributor housing counterclockwise advances ignition timing and clockwise retards timing.)

(6)

Tighten distributor hold-down arm screw after timing has been set and recheck timing adjustment with a Power Timing Light.

(7)

When ignition timing is correct, reconnect vacuum hose to distributor.

REMOVING THE DISTRIBUTOR

(1)

Disconnect vacuum hose at distributor.

(2)

Disconnect primary lead wire at coil.

(3)

Unfasten distributor cap retaining clips and lift off distributor cap. housing to indicate position of the rotor as reference when reinstalling the distributor.

(5) Remove distributor hold-down clamp screw and clamp.

(6) Carefully lift distributor from engine.

Shaft and Bushing W e a r Test

(1)

Remove distributor rotor.

(2)

Disconnect primary lead wire at distributor terminal. DO NOT LOOSEN inner nut that holds movable contact arm tension spring to terminal post.

(3)

Clamp ribbed section of distributor housing lightly in a vise equipped with soft jaws and attach the dial indicator to body of distributor with the indicator plunger arm resting against movable contact arm at the rubbing block and with the rubbing block of contact arm on the highest point of cam lobe

(Fig.

4).

distributor shaft. Hook a spring scale in the other end of wire loop and pull on a line with the plunger of indicator gauge. Be sure wire loop on shaft end is down on the shaft to insure a straight pull and also that wire loop does not interfere with indicator or holding bracket. Apply a five pound pull and read the movement of the plunger on the indicator dial. (Be sure rubbing block of contact arm is on highest point of cam lobe during this test.) If plunger movement exceeds

.006

inch, replace bushings and/or distributor shaft, see “Distributor Disassembly.”

Disassembling the Distributor (Fig.

5 )

(1)

Remove the distributor rotor.

The distributor cap clamp springs on Chrysler built

‘t(

Fig.

4-Shaft and Bushing Wear Test

62x326

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distributors are held in place by peened metal around the openings and should not be removed.

(2)

Remove retainer attaching vacuum advance unit to contact plate advance arm. vacuum advance unit to distributor housing and move the unit. reas an assembly. Push grommet towards inside of distributor to remove.

Do not pull the wire.

(5)

Remove two screws, and lockwashers attaching contact plate to housing and lift out contact plate, contacts and condenser as an assembly.

(6)

Remove oil wick from the distributor cam (Fig.

6).

Remove spring clip from oil well in cam and remove cam and yoke assembly and spacer.

- -

Fig. 7-Removing Distributor Housing Upper Bushing

ing bushing then press bushing into distributor until top of bushing is

1.1613

inches from top of machined face of distributor housing. Place a straightedge on machined surface of housing and measure from bottom face of the straightedge to top of the bushing.

Invert housing and install other bushing (Fig. with face

distributor base.

( ,

PRESS RAM

SPRl

- _

NB156A

Fig. 6-Removing or Installing Cam Felt Wick

TOOL (DRIVER)

I d

TOOL

(ADAPTER)

(7)

If side play exceeded

.006

inch in the “Shaft and Bushing Wear Test,” replace bushings and/or distributor shaft as follows:

(a) Remove distributor drive collar retaining pin and slide the collar off end of shaft.

(b)

Use a fine file to clean burrs from around pin hole in the shaft and remove lower thrust washer.

(d) Remove shaft oiler and lift out oiler wick.

CAUTION: Do not drive bushings out of the housing.

(e)

Remove upper bushing with Tool

(2-3744 7)

by threading the tap securely into bushing. Place spacer over the tap. Install tool nut and, while holding the tap, tighten tool nut to remove bushing. Invert housing and remove lower bushing in same manner.

(f) Soak new bushing in light engine oil for approximately

(g) Position new upper bushing with hole in bushing

and in line with hole in housing, then press the bushing into distributor housing with Tool adapter (Fig.

8),

with the flat face of adapter contact-

Fig. 8-Installing Distributor Housing Upper Bushing

(h) Insert a hole to

3/32

inch rod through housing oiler see if hole in bushing indexes with oiler hole in housing. If the rod cannot be inserted through housing and bushing, drill a %“ hole through upper bushing by drilling through oil wick hole. Remove burrs caused by drilling operation.

(i) Install burnishing tool part of Tool set

C-3041

and force burnisher through both bushings (Fig. 10).

The correct bushing inside diameter is

.4995

ASS EM

BLI N G TH E Dl STRl B UTOR

(1)

operation of governor weights and inspect

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TOOL

(DRIVER)

~ ~

$ '

PRESS RAM

ADAPTER

150

Fig. 9-Installing Distributor Housing lower Bushing

I G N IT1 0 N-E L ECTR I C A L 8-43

plate. Install vacuum unit attaching screws and washers.

(10)

Test contact arm spring tension, and adjust contact gap.

(11) Lubricate felt pad in the top of distributor cam with

drops of light engine oil and install rotor.

TESTING CONTACT ARM SPRING TENSION

(1) Hook a spring scale Tool

MTU-36

on the breaker arm and pull in a straight line at a right angle to the contact surfaces (Fig.

11).

Take a reading as the contacts start to separate under the slow and steady pull of the scale. Spring tension should be 17 to 20 ounces. If the reading is outside these limits, loosen the screw which holds the end of the contact arm spring, and slide the end of the spring in or out, as necessary.

CONTACT ARM

PRESS RAM

TOOL

(BURNISHER)

UPPER BUSHING

Fig. 10-Burnishing Distributor Housing Bushings

weight springs for distortion. Lubricate governor weights.

(2) Inspect all bearing surfaces and pivot pins for roughness, binding or excessive looseness.

(3)

Install cam spacer, chamfered end down on distributor shaft.

(4)

Slide cam and yoke on distributor shaft, engage weight lugs with slots in the yoke. Install cam retaining spring clip. Be sure it is properly seated in the groove of distributor shaft. tion washer on distributor shaft and slide shaft into distributor body. Position lower thrust washer and drive collar

lower end of shaft. Install retainer pin.

(6) Install oiler wick and oiler.

(7) Install contact plate assembly. Align condenser lead, contact point spring, primary lead and install attaching screw.

(8) Install felt wick in the top of distributor cam.

(9)

Attach vacuum advance unit arm to contact

NB154B

Fig. 1 I-Testing Contact Arm Spring Tension

(2) Tighten the screw and measure the spring tension.

Just the right amount of contact spring tension i s very important for effective ignition and efficient engine performance. Spring tension that is too great, will cause excessive wear on the distributor cam and on the nylon block of the movable contact arm. Spring tension that is too weak, i s unable to keep the contacts in contact with each other when they close. This is particulary true as engine speed is increased, causing high-speed misfiring.

DlSTRl

UT0

Contact Wear

CONTACTS

Contacts which have undergone several thousand miles of operation will have a rough surface, but this should not be interpreted as meaning that the contacts are worn out. If the contact area has a gray color and the roughness between the contacts matches so that a large contact area is maintained, the contacts will continue to provide satisfactory service.

However, if the contact area is oily, mottled or dark in color, or is badly pitted, the contacts will soon become unsatisfactory for further operation. Not only must they be replaced, but the ignition system and engine must be checked to determine the cause of the

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8-44 EL E CT R IC A L-I G N IT I 0 N

trouble so it can be eliminated.

Unless the condition causing the contact burning or excessive pitting is corrected, the new contacts will provide no better service than the old contacts.

Burning

Contacts

Contact burning will result from high primary voltage, presence of oil or other foreign material, defective condenser and improper contacts adjustment.

High voltage causes an excessively high current flow through the contacts which burns them rapidly. High voltage can result from an improperly adjusted or inoperative voltage regulator.

Oil or crankcase vapors which work up into the distributor and deposit on the contact surfaces will cause them to burn rapidly. This is easy to detect since the oil produces a smudgy line under the contacts.

Clogged engine breather pipes permit crankcase pressure to force oil or vapors up into the distributor.

Over-oiling of the distributor will also cause burning.

If the contact opening is too small (cam angle too large), arcing will occur between the contacts resulting in low secondary voltage and engine miss.

High series-resistance in the condenser circuit will prevent normal condenser action so the contacts will burn rapidly. This resistance may be caused by a loose condenser mounting or lead connection, or by poor connections inside the condenser.

Pitting

Contacts

Contact pitting results from the transfer of material from one contact to the other so that a tip builds up on one contact while a pit forms in the other.

A small amount of pitting in several thousand miles is normal and does not affect the distributor operation. However, excessive pitting such as long sharp spikes is harmful and causes arcing and voltage loss.

Contacts with this condition should be replaced.

Excessive pitting can be due too small a contact opening, high primary voltage o r wrong condenser capacity. Inspect to be certain the condenser capacity is within the specified range of

.25

.285

tact spring tension should be

ounces and contact gap should be

.014 .019

inch.

INSTALLING AND ALIGNING CONTACTS

(1)

Loosen terminal screw nut, and remove primary lead, condenser lead and terminal screw.

(2)

Remove stationary contact lock screw and move old contact set. re- of adjustable bracket fits over and pivots on upper contact plate mounting pin, the contact insulator also retains terminal screw head. ary contact bracket only.

Never bend

movable contact arm to obtain alignment.

(6)

After aligning contacts, adjust contact clearance to “Specifications,” using dial indicator (Fig.

12).

Recheck contact arm spring tension.

(7)

sure.

Test dwell angle to show proper degree of clo-

See

Paragraph, “Distributor Contact Dwell.”

The lock screw should be loosened just enough so stationary contact bracket can be removed with a slight drag; otherwise, it will be difficult to set contacts accurately. After setting contacts to the correct gap, tighten stationary bracket lock screw.

r y

N B 1 4 8 A

Fig. 12-Adjusting Contact Clearance with Indicator

DlSTR I B UT0 R LU BRl CAT1 ON

(1)

Add

drops of SAE outside of distributor base.

1OW

oil to the oiler on of distributor cam with

drops of SAE

1OW

oil. free of dirt and old grease with a clear lintless cloth. Apply a light film of new distributor cam lubricant Number

1473595

or equivalent over the entire cam surface. Lubricant must be able to adhere to the cam surface thereby resisting being thrown from the cam by centrifugal force, must not melt at operating temperatures and must not harden or dry out with age, must not chemi- cally react or be affected by ozone or cause corrosion o r pitting of the metal, must possess moisture control properties to prevent rust formation on the cam.

CAUTION: A thin film is all that is required. Do not over-lubricate. Excess grease will be thrown from the distributor cam when engine i s running.

If this grease strikes the contacts, arcing and burning of contacts will result.

TESTING DISTRIBUTOR ADVANCE

Centrifugal Advance Curve

Mount distributor assembly (less cap and rotor) in a reliable stroboscope-type distributor ceed with tests as follows: tester and pro-

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Clamp around ribbed section of distributor housing.

The bottom section of distributor housing is not a machined surface and concentricity would be affected, causing a wobble.

(1)

Turn Tach-Dwell switch to

“LOBE” position and Motor Switch to correct direction of rotation. Re- fer to “Distributor Specifications” in this Manual.

(2)

Turn battery switch “ON.”

(3)

Regulate tester speed control to operate distributor at 200 distributor rpm.

(4) Align the “0” of the distributor tester degree ring with any one of the arrow flashes.

(5) Adjust tester speed control to operate distributor at speeds called for under “Specifications” and observe arrow flashes opposite tester degree ring to determine degrees of advance.

(6) If advance is not according to specifications, corrections can be made by bending the primary and secondary spring tabs on cam yoke to increase or decrease spring tension. The governor spring tabs can be reached through the access hole at breaker plate.

Rotate shaft until proper ring and tab line up with access holes. Insert a screwdriver blade through access hole and bend spring tab toward distributor cam to decrease spring tension and advance to spark, or away from the distributor cam to increase spring tension and retard the spark.

The light tension spring controls the lower end of advance curve, and the heavier spring controls upper end of advance curve.

Vacuum Diaphragm Leak Test

With distributor mounted in distributor tester and with vacuum unit attached to distributor, proceed as follows:

(1) Place thumb over end of vacuum pump and hose and adjust regulator control knob to give a reading of 20 inches with hose closed off to be sure tester hose does not leak.

(2)

Attach tester vacuum pump hose to the tube on the distributor vacuum unit. The vacuum gauge should hold on maximum vacuum obtainable if no leak exists.

(3)

Observe contact plate while performing leak test to test response of contact plate. There should be instant response to the pull of the diaphragm, moving the plate without a drag or bind.

(4)

If leakage is indicated, replace vacuum unit assembly.

Vacuum Advance Curve

Connect tester vacuum pump hose to the distributor vacuum advance unit and perform operations

1 through

5 under “Centrifugal Advance Curve.” Then proceed as follows:

(1)

Turn tester vacuum pump “ON.” Adjust vacuum pump regulator to vacuum test specifications. See

“Specifications” and observe arrow flashes on tester degree ring to determine degrees of advance.

(2) If vacuum advance is above or below specifications, replace vacuum advance unit. Retest vacuum advance curve.

INSTALLING THE DlSTRl BUTOR

(1) Position distributor on engine. Align rotor with marks previously scribed on distributor housing.

(2)

Engage tongue of distributor shaft with slot in distributor and oil pump drive gear.

If engine has been cranked while distributor i s removed, it will be necessary to establish the proper relationship between distributor shaft and

NO.

1 piston position as follows:

(a) Rotate crankshaft until number one piston is at top of compression stroke.

(b) Rotate rotor to the position of number one distributor cap terminal.

(c) Lower distributor into the opening, connect primary lead and install distributor cap. Make sure all high tension wires “snap” firm in cap towers. Install distributor hold-down clamp screw. Tighten screw finger tight.

(d) Connect secondary lead of a Power Timing

Light to NO.

1 spark plug (using proper adapter).

Connect red primary lead to positive terminal of battery and black primary lead to negative battery terminal.

(e) Start and operate engine at idle speed. Rotate distributor housing so that specified timing mark and pointer are in alignment (Moving the distributor housing against shaft rotation advances timing and with shaft rotation retards timing).

(f)

Tighten distributor clamp screw after timing has been set and recheck timing adjustment with a

Power Timing Light.

(g) If timing is correct, connect vacuum hose to distributor and remove timing light from engine.

lgnition Timing (with

C-744

Test Lamp)

(1)

Connect C-744 test lamp between distributor primary terminal and battery positive post.

(2) Turn engine until number 6 exhaust valve is just closing; continue turning engine slowly until specified degree mark on the crankshaft pulley is at specified degree mark at case cover.

(3)

Loosen distributor clamp bolt so distributor housing can be rotated with a slight drag, then turn distributor in the normal rotation until test lamp lights.

(4)

Turn distributor against normal distributor rotation until test lamp goes out.

I f the test lamp lights immediately when connected, turn distributor against normal distributor rotation until light goes out.

(5)

Tighten distributor clamp bolt securely and remove test lamp.

the operation is performed properly the engine is timed to specifications.

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If engine i s turned beyond the timing mark, continue turning engine for two full revolutions of the crankshaft; this will place the distributor rotor in approximately the initial position.

CAUTION:

DO NOT reverse rotation of the crankshaft if you have passed the timing mark as this would affect valve timing and distributor timing.

IGNITION COIL

The ignition coil is designed to operate with an external ballast resistor. When testing the coil for output, include resistor in tests.

Inspect coil for external leaks and arcing. Always make two tests when testing the coil. One when the coil is cold, the other after the coil has been warmed

UP.

Test coil according to coil tester Manufacturer’s instructions. Test coil primary resistance. Test ballast resistor resistance. Test coil secondary resistance. Re- place any coil and ballast resistor that does not meet specifications.

Every time an ignition coil is replaced because of a burned tower, carbon tracking or any evidence of arcing at the tower, the nipple or boot on the coil end of the secondary cable, replace cable. Any arcing at the tower will carbonize the nipple so that placing it on a new coil will invariably cause another coil failure.

If the secondary cable shows any signs of damage, the cable should be replaced with a new cable with the neoprene nipple since the old cable can cause arcing, and ruin a new coil.

BALLAST RESISTOR

The ballast resistor is a compensating resistance in the ignition primary circuit. During low speed operation, when the primary circuit current flow is high, ballast resistor temperature rises, increasing resistance. This reduces current flow, thereby prolonging ignition contact life. At high speed operation, when primary current flow is low, the ballast resistance cools off allowing more current flow, which is required for high speed operation. During starter operation, the ballast resistor is bypassed, allowing full battery voltage to the ignition primary circuit.

SPARK PLUGS

To insure peak performance, spark plugs should be removed, cleaned, tested and regapped every

5000 miles. Worn and dirty plugs may give satisfactory operation at idling speed but may fail under operation conditions. Spark plug appearance or conditions can reflect a wide variety of engine conditions as follows:

Normal

Conditions

Normal conditions (Fig.

1).

This plug has been running at the correct temperature in a “healthy” engine. The few deposits present will probably be light tan or gray in color with most regular grades of commercial gasoline. Electrode burning will not be in evi-

Fig. I -Normal Conditions Fig. 2-Cold Fouling

+ dence; gap growth will average not more than about as pictured, could be cleaned, the gap electrodes filed, regapped and reinstalled with good results.

Cold Fouling

Cold fouling or carbon deposits (Fig.

2).

This dry black appearance is fuel carbon and can be due to over rich fuel-air mixture, possibly resulting from a faulty choke, clogged air cleaner, improper carburetor idle adjustment, or dirty carburetor. However, if only one or two plugs in a set are fouled like this it is a good idea to check for sticking valves

or

faulty ignition cables. This condition also results from prolonged operation at idle. If the vehicle is operated extensively at idle and low speeds, improved plug service will be obtained by using the next step hotter spark plugs.

W e t Fouling

Wet fouling (Fig.

tells you that the plug has drowned in excess oil. In an old engine, suspect worn rings or excessive cylinder wear. In OHV engines, too much oil may be coming in past the valve guides. Use of a hotter plug may relieve such fouling, but plugs can’t take the place of needed engine overhaul.

Re- member that ”break-in” fouling of new engines may occur before normal oil control is achieved. In new or recently overhauled jobs, such fouling plugs can be cleaned and reinstalled.

Fig. 3-Wet Fouling Fig. 4-Splashed Fouling

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Splashed Fouling

Splashed fouling (Fig.

may sometimes occur after a long-delayed tune-up. Here, deposits accumulated after a long period of misfiring may be suddenly loosened when normal combustion temperatures are restored upon installation of new plugs. During a high speed run, these materials shedding off the combustion chamber are thrown against the hot insulator surface. If they happen to short out the plug, they can be removed with regular cleaning techniques. The plugs can then be reinstalled with good results as the engine has scavenged itself.

Fig. 7-High Speed

Glazing

Fig. 8-Scavenger Deposits

Fig. 5-Core Bridging

Fig. 6-Gap Bridging

Core Bridging

Core briaging (Fig.

will be encountered only rarely in automotive engines. It’s usually due to the same conditions described under splashed deposits. In this case, a chunk of deposit was thrown off the piston and formed a bridge between the and shell. Result:

“dead short.” Such evidence of excessive combustion chamber deposits will be more common where oil control is poor

. .

or where vehicles are usually driven in slow speed, start-stop service. In such instances, it usually pays to physically remove accumulated deposits from the engine.

G a p Bridging

Gap bridging (Fig. motive engines. It

is relatively rare in auto- may be traced to deposits in the chamber. In a few cases, fluffy deposits may accumulate on the plugs during in-town driving; when the engine is suddenly put under high load, this material can melt and bridge the gap.

High Speed Glazing

High speed glazing may cause misfiring at speeds above

50-60

mph. The shiny deposit (Fig.

may be yellow or tan in color. It usually suggests that temperatures have suddenly risen during a hard acceleration.

a result normal deposits do not get a chance to fluff off the plug

. .

. instead they melt and form a conductive coating. If this continues to reoccur, sug- gest a colder heat range and regular spark plug cleanings.

Scavenger Deposits

Fuel scavenger deposits (Fig. 8) may be white or yellow in color. They may

appear

to be bad, but this is a

normal

appearance with certain branded fuels. Such materials are designed to change the chemical nature of deposits to lessen misfire tendencies. Notice that accumulation on the ground electrode and shell areas may be unusually heavy, but the material is easily flaked off. Such plugs can be considered normal in condition, and can be cleaned with standard procedures.

Overheating

Overheating (Fig,

is indicated by a white or light gap wear rate will be considerable in of

~ o o l r r ~ l o o o miles. This range should be used suggests that a cooler heat

. . . however, over-adavanced ignition timing, detonation and cooling system stop- pages can also overheat the

correct

spark plug heat ranges.

Turbulence Burning

Turbulence burning (Fig. 10) causes electrodes to wear away on one side. This is the result of normal turbulence patterns in the combustion chambers of certain engines. is

It can be ignored if normal plug life being obtained. If gap growth appears excessive, review the corrective measures suggested under

overheating.

Fig. 9-Overheating Fig. IO--Turbulence Burning

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Mechanical Damage

Mechanical damage to the firing end (Fig.

14)

is caused by some foreign object in the combustion chamber. Since small objects can travel from one cylinder to another, always check the other cylinders to prevent reoccurrence of damage.

Fig.

I-Initial Pre-

Ignition Damage

Fig. 12-Sustained Pre-

Ignition Damage

Initial Pre-ignition Damage

Initial pre-ignition damage (Fig.

11)

may be caused by excessive temperatures. This produces melting of the center electrode and, somewhat later, the ground electrode. Remember that the spark plug is like an electric fuse

. . . when it melts, it warns you to look for the causes, and for damage to the engine such as scuffed pistons, burned pistons or burned valves.

Inspect for correct spark plug heat range, over- advanced ignition timing, loose spark plugs, burned head gasket, excessive detonation due to low octane fuel and for similar causes of overheating.

Sustained Pre-ignition Damage

Sustained pre-ignition damage (Fig.

12) usually in- volves melting of the ceramic firing tip. Since this requires temperatures above 1700°F, it’s a good possibility that other components of the engine may have been damaged by pre-ignition. This is another sure sign that careful inspection of the engine and its adjustments are required.

Chipped Insulator

Chipped insulator (Fig. 13) usually results from bending the center electrode during regapping of the plug. Under certain conditions, severe detonation can also split insulator firing ends. In a four-cycle engine,

a

piece of ceramic like this is easily blown out through the exhaust.

Fig. 13-Chip Insulator

Fig. 14-Mechanical

Damage

Fig. 15-Pressure Type

Gap Tool Damage

Fig. 16-Reversed Coil

Polarity

Pressure Type Gap Tool

Pressure type gap tools, if improperly used, impose a tremendously high unit pressure on the center electrode (Fig.

15).

This is because of compression being exerted between the end of the center electrode and the top of the shell. If too much force is applied thru leverage multiplication, the center electrode seal on any type or brand of spark plug is likely to be damaged. There are several of these pliers type gap tools on the market.

Reversed Coil Polarity

Reversed coil polarity can often be detected by

“dishing” of the ground electrode. Note in Figure

that the center electrode is usually not worn badly.

This source of misfiring and rough idle can be corrected by reversing the primary coil leads. An oscilloscope is the surest way to detect reversed polarity.

While these examples may not be conclusive in all instances, they may indicate possible corrective procedures and further diagnosis may be necessary.

Cleaning and Regapping

Carefully clean the spark plugs in an abrasive type cleaner. Use a pin type feeler gauge to check spark plug gap. Reset gaps to

.035

Before setting spark plug gap, file center electrode flat, make adjustment by bending ground (ride) electrode, never bend the center electrode.

Inspect spark plug cables, coil secondary (high tension) cable, nipples and covers for cracks, wear and fraying. Always use the neoprene insulating nipples whenever it becomes necessary to replace high tension cables or nipples. Inspect for loose terminals.

When installing spark plugs, tighten to

foot- pounds.

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+’

HEADLIGHTS-ELECTRICAL 8-49

HEADLIGHTS

INDEX

Adjusting the

Checking Headlight

Aim

Compensating

Headlights

Aimers

General Information

.......................

..........................

...........................

Headlights Sealed-Beam Replacement

Page

. . . . . . . . . .

Mounting and Adjusting the

.......................

51 Pre-Aiming Instructions

Service

Testing

Diagnosis

Aimer Calibration

Aimers

.............

........................

..............................

.......................

Page

GENERAL INFORMATION

The dual headlight system consists of four sealed beam headlights.

The two outboard lights are of the two filament type for low and high beam and are marked by a numeral

molded in the lamp lens.

The two inboard lights have only one filament and are marked with a numeral 1

The lights cannot be installed wrong as the mounting lugs for the number one

(1)

and the number two

(2) lights are offset at different angles.

On high beam, the number 1 light provides the high intensity “reach” down the highway and the off focus filament in the number

light provides the

“body” light which illuminates the side of the road, ditches, etc.

On low beam, only the number two

(2)

lights operate.

Condition

HEADLIGHTS DIM

(engine running above idle)

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible

Cause

(a) High resistance in lighting

(b)

Faulty sealed beam units.

Correction

(a) Test lighting circuit including ground connection. Make necessary repairs.

(b)

Replace sealed beam units.

Make necessary repairs.

LIGHTS FLICKER

LIGHTS BURN OUT

FREQUENTLY

(a) Loose connections or damaged wires (a) Tighten connections and check for in lighting circuit. damaged wiring.

(b) Light wiring .insulation damaged pro- (b) Test wiring and replace or tape dam- ducing momentary short. aged wires.

(a) High voltage regulator setting.

(b)

Loose connections in light circuit.

(a) Adjust voltage regulator.

(b) Tighten connections.

LIGHTS WILL NOT

LIGHT

(a) Discharged battery.

(b)

Loose connections in lighting

(c)

Burned out lamps.

(d) Open or corroded contacts light switch. circuit. in head-

(a) Recharge battery and correct cause.

(b)

Tighten connections.

(d) Replace headlight switch.

(e) Open or corroded contact in dimmer (e) Replace dimmer switch. switch. unit.

HEADLIGHTS DIM

(engine idling or

shut off)

(a) Partly discharged battery.

(b)

Faulty battery.

(d) Faulty sealed beam units.

(e) Corroded battery terminals.

(a) Charge battery.

(b)

Test battery. Replace if necessary.

(d) ground connection. Make necessary repairs.

Replace sealed beam

(e)

Clean terminals. units.

PR E-AI MI N G I NSTRUCTI 0 NS

(1) Check dimmer switch for faulty operation.

(7)

Rock vehicle sideways to allow vehicle to assume its normal position.

(2)

Check high beam indicator-indicates the

high

beam is in operation when lighted.

(8)

If gasoline tank is not full, place a weight in the trunk of vehicle to simulate the weight of the gasoline

(3)

Check for rusted

Or assemblies. These must be corrected before a satisfacto- normally carried in the tank

(6%

pounds per gallon). ry adjustment can be made.

(9)

There should be no other load in the vehicle

(4)

Place vehicle on a level floor. other than the driver or a substituted weight of ap-

(5)

Check front suspension height. Adjust to spec& fications as necessary. proximately

150

pounds placed in the driver’S POsi- tion.

(6)

Check tire inflation. (10)

Remove headlight front trim panel. Do not

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8-50

ELECTR ICAL-H EAD LI G HTS

remove the seal beam retainer rims.

(1 1)

Thoroughly clean the lenses.

COMPENSATING AIMERS

Determining Slope

Floor

(1)

Place transit on floor in line with vertical center line of the right fron wheel (Fig.

1).

Place split image target in like position at right rear wheel.

(2)

Adjust the range screw on the transit until the target split image coincides or merges into one unbroken line.

Make sure that the line of sight is perpendicular from the eye to the viewing port of the transit and that the target image is centered in viewing port of transit. ltU433

Fig. 2-Adjusting Floor level Compensators i n Aimers

LEVEL (SPIRIT)

Fig. I-Determining Slope of Floor

(3)

Turn the dial on side of the transit until bubble in spirit level is centered.

(4) When the bubble is centered, the “plus” or

“minus” reading on compensator scale. This indicates the degree of slope of the floor and must be transferred to each aimer.

( 5 )

With a screwdriver, turn the adjusting slot

floor level compensator in each aimer until the correct plus or minus figure (or fractional part) appears in the proper window (Fig. 2).

Testing Aimer Calibration

(1)

Using a carpenter or stone mason level of known accuracy, locate a true vertical plate glass window or smooth surface (Fig.

3).

(2)

Set the

DOWN-UP

pointer on

DOWN

(3)

Set the

RIGHT-LEFT

pointer and floor level compensator at

“0”

(Zero).

(4)

Secure aimers to glass or smooth surface three to five feet apart so split-image targets can be located in viewing ports.

(5) If the bubble is centered in the glass dial, vertical calibration is correct. If the bubble is not centered, make the

DOWN-UP

adjustment by rotating the level adjusting screw until the bubble is centered in the spirit level.

(6)

The horizontal aim is correct if the targets on opposite aimers are aligned in the viewing ports. If targets are not aligned in viewing ports, rotate mirror

Fig. 3-Checking Aimer Calibration

adjusting screw until the target split image becomes aligned.

MOUNTING AND ADJUSTING THE AIMERS

(1) While holding an aimer in alignment with the lends

one

outboard

headlight, bring aimer up to and against headlight lens.

Make certain that the lens pads are making full contact with the aimer mounting flange and that the aimer target is facing inboard.

(2)

Push the release lever forward (to expel air from suction cup) and while holding the aimer firmly against the headlight aiming pads, slowly pull the release lever back until the spring lock engages in the slot.

(3)

Mount the second aimer on the other outboard headlight, in the same manner (Fig.

4).

(4) On each aimer, set pointer to numeral

on the

DOWN

side of the

DOWN-UP

scale.

(5)

On each aimer, position the pointer,

of

the

RIGHT-LEFT

scale, at

RIGHT.

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.Gs.

HORIZONTAL ADJUSTING

VERTICAL ADJUSTING

SCREW

HEADLIGHTS-ELECTRICAL

8-51

VERTICAL ADJUSTMENT SCREWS

Fig. 4-Mounting and Adjusting Aimers

CHECKING HEADLIGHT AIM

Horizontal Check

Turn the

RIGHT-LEFT

scale knob until the split image is in alignment. If the

RIGHT

LEFT

portion of scale exceeds the following values, the lights should be aimed.

Values given represent inches at

feet.

No. 1 UNIT

No. 2 UNIT

RIGHT

LEFT

Vertical Check

Turn

DOWN-UP

scale knob until the spirit level is centered. If

DOWN

portion of the scale exceeds the following values, the lights should be aimed.

No.

1 UNIT

No.

2 UNIT

DOWN

U P

l 2

3% 0

ADJUSTING THE HEADLIGHTS

Horizontal Adjustment

(1)

With the pointer of

RIGHT-LEFT

scale still set a t

2-RIGHT,

sight through the aimer viewing port.

Make sure that the line of sight is perpendicular from the eye to the viewing port of the aimer and that the target image is centered in the viewing port of the aimer.

(2)

While sighting through the viewing port of the aimer, turn the horizontal adjusting screw on the headlight until the split image target line merges into one unbroken line.

To remove backlash be sure to make a final adjustment by turning headlight horizontal adjusting screw in a clockwise direction (Fig.

5).

(3)

Make the horizontal adjustment on the other

outboard

headlight in the same manner.

Vertical Adjustment

(1) Turn vertical adjusting screw on headlight in a

HORIZONTAL ADJUSTMENT SCREWS 62x388A

Fig. 5-Headlight Adjustment Points

counterclockwise direction to bring the bubble of the spirit level on the aimer to car side

of

center. Use care to avoid disturbing the installed position of the aimers. Then turn the screw clockwise until the bubble is centered for correct aim and elimination of backlash.

(2)

Make the vertical adjustment on the other

outboard

unit in the same manner.

(3)

Recheck the target alignment on each side and readjust the horizontal aim, if necessary.

Proceed to adjust the inboard units by following the instructions as outlined for the outboard headlights. Install headlight trim panels. Remove aimers by releasing the spring lock at the rear (bottom) of the aimer and pushing the release lever forward.

Do not attempt to remove the aimers by pulling them away from the headlight lens-slide the suction cup downward and away from the lens.

HEADLIGHT SEALED-BEAM REPLACEMENT

Lens, filament and reflector are sealed into one unit which can be removed as follows:

(1) Remove the screws from the headlight panel and remove the panel.

(2)

Remove screw from interior retaining ring, and remove the ring.

Do not disturb the headlight aiming screws.

(3)

Pull out the sealed-beam unit and unplug the connector, pulling it straight off.

(4)

Install new sealed-beam unit.

( 5 )

Check headlight aiming.

(6)

Install unit retaining ring and headlight panel.

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8-52 ELECTRICAL-I NSTRU

ENTS AND

N DICATORS

INSTRUMENTS-IN DICATORS

Circuit Breakers

Fuel Level Indicating System

Fuse Block

Page

...............................

General Information

...................

....................................

...........................

Heater or Air Conditioning Controls

............

Instrument and Speedometer Clusters

..........

54

Light Bulb Replacement

Oil Pressure Indicators

Printed Circuit Board

.......................

.........................

..........................

INDEX

Service Diagnosis

Specifications

.............................

Page

Switches

.................................

......................................

Temperature Indicating System

................

Tests

In Vehicle

...................................

Out of Vehicle

Voltage Limiter

..............................

...............................

GENERAL INFORMATION

The instruments are contained in two circular clus- gauge, o i l indicator light, ammeter (alternator) and the clock, if so equipped, mounted in the center

the ters located on each side of the centerline of the cluster. steering column in the panel. The l e f t cluster contains the speedometer with the fuel gauge mounted in i t s center. The right cluster consists of the temperature

The gauges operate on the constant voltage principle and are sensitive to changes in fuel level or coolant temperature change.

Condition

ALL GAUGES READ

HIGH

(“against the peg”)

AFTER IGNITION

SWITCH

IS

TURNED

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

Possible Cause Correction

(a)

Faulty voltage limiter.

(a)

Test voltage limiter.

(b) Cluster not properly grounded to (b) Tighten cluster mounting screws. panel.

GAUGE POINTERS DO

NOT MOVE WHEN

IGNITION SWITCH

TURNED “ON”

(a) Faulty voltage limiter or an open circuit on battery side (input put of limiter).

(a) Test voltage limiter. Test wiring, repair or replace as necessary.

TEMP E R ATU

G A

INDICATES NORMAL

OPERATION. BUT THE

FUEL GAUGE INDICATES

HIGHER

LOWER

FUEL LEVEL THAN

ACTUALLY EXISTS

(a) Fuel tank sending unit or instrument (a) Test sending unit and gauge. panel fuel gauge is faulty.

(b) Fuel tank is improperly grounded. (b) Test fuel tank for a good ground.

Testing the system with the tank sending unit positioned for both “empty” and “full” is usually sufficient to determine the calibration in the range between these positions.

FUEL GAUGE INDI-

CATES CORRECTLY BUT

TEMPERATURE GAUGE

INDICATES

HIGHER

OR LOWER TEMPERA-

TURE THAN ACTUAL

ENGINE TEMPERATURE

(a) Faulty instrument panel temperature (a) Test wiring, repair or replace as neces- gauge, wiring or faulty temperature sary. Test gauge and sending unit. sending unit in engine.

ERRATIC TEMPERATURE

GAUGE OPERATION

(a) Loose or dirty electrical connections. (a) Clean and tighten all electrical connections and test the gauge operation.

ERRATIC OPERATION

OF FUEL GAUGE

(a) Loose or dirty electrical connections (a) Test fuel tank sending unit, and pro- or faulty fuel tank sending unit. ceed as follows:

(1)

Clean and tighten a l l electrical connections.

(2) Inspect fuel tank ground strap and make sure tank is grounded to body.

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N STR U M E NTS AN D I N D I CAT0 RS-E LECTR IC A L 8-53

VOLTAGE LIMITER

Constant voltage is provided through a voltage limiter contained inside the temperature gauge, and is connected in parallel to the gauges and provides the same regulated voltage to the gauges.

FUEL LEVEL INDICATING SYSTEM

Turning the ignition key on, connects the system to the battery or charging system voltage. The function of the voltage limiter is to regulate this input voltage from the car battery or charging system to an average voltage of approximately

volts D.C. (Fig. 1).

The effect of this constant voltage supply is to cause the balance of the system to be sensitive to changes in the value

resistance at the tank unit only.

l-----------1

I I

VOLT INPUT

/FUEL TANK SENDING UNIT

FROM SENDING UNIT

BULKHEAD CONNECTOR

NK1067

Fig. 1 -Fuel Level Indicating System

When the fuel level is low or empty, the resistance is increased which decreases the current flow and consequently positions the panel gauge pointer to low or empty.

When the tank is full, the float level is at the top, the minimum resistance is in the circuit and the flow of current in the circuit is high. The panel gauge pointer will be moved across the dial to indicate a full tank.

TEMPE RATU RE

N D I CAT1 N G SYSTEM

The operation of the temperature indicating system is identical in operation with the fuel system with the exception of the method of varying the resistance of the sending unit. In this system the resistance varies in direct relation to the temperature of the coolant

(Fig.

2).

Any change in the coolant temperature causes a like change in the resistor incorporated in the engine sending unit.

When the engine is cold the resistance of the disc in the temperature sending unit is high and a low temperature will be indicated.

As the engine temperature increases the resistance

12 VOLT INPUT

VOLT OUTPUT

TEMPERATURE SENDING

/UNIT (ON ENGINE)

TEMPERATURE GAUGE

B U

LKH EAD CONNECTOR

(ON DASH PANEL)

NK1066

Fig. 2--Temperature Indicating System

of the temperature sending unit disc starts to decrease. A resultant increase in the current flow will occur causing the gauge pointer to indicate the increase in engine temperature.

The engine temperature sending unit like the fuel level tank unit, operates on a principle of varying resistance.

TESTS IN VEHICLES

Voltage Limiter

A quick test to determine if the voltage limiter is operating is to connect one lead of a voltmeter or test lamp to the temperature sending unit and the other lead to a good ground (leave the sending unit lead wire attached to the sending unit). Turn the ignition switch to the

“on”

position. A fluctuating voltmeter or flashing lamp indicates the voltage limiter is operating.

FUEL INDICATING SYSTEM

Fuel Gauge

(1)

Disconnect wire at fuel tank sending unit. Con- nect one lead of Tester C-3826 to wire terminal and the other lead to a good ground. Turn ignition key on.

(2) Turn knob on dial of tester to

“H”

and observe gauge on panel. It should read “Full,” plus or minus

3/32”.

(3) With dial knob on read

Vi.

(4)

With dial knob on

“L,”

“Empty” plus or minus 3/32”.

If the panel gauge does

not

perform as described, continuity of the circuit from the tank sending unit to the panel unit should be tested with special attention to the printed circuit board before replacing the panel gauge.

Should the panel unit perform properly, the fuel tank sending unit should be inspected for proper ground strap installation on the fuel line (Fig.

3).

If ground continuity is satisfactory, remove the tank unit for testing. See “Fuel Tank Sending Unit Re- moval, Fuel Section-Group

14.

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8-54 ELECTRICAL-INSTRU MENTS AND INDICATORS

Fig. 3-Fuel Tank Ground

Strap

Temperature Indicating System

Disconnect the terminal from the temperature sending unit on the engine. Connect one test lead of

Tester C-3826 to the terminal and the other test lead to a good ground. Place the pointer of the gauge tester on the

”L”

position and turn the ignition switch to “on.” The temperature gauge should show

”C”

plus or minus ‘/s inch.

Thermal gauges are slow in operation. Allow time for gauge to heat up.

Place the pointer on the tester on the

“M”

and the temperature gauge should advance to the driving range of

‘/2

position of the dial. Place the pointer of the tester in the

”H“

position and the gauge should advance to the

”H”

position of the dial.

Should the gauge respond to the above tests, but not operate when the terminal is attached to the sending unit, indications are of a defective sending unit and it should be replaced. Should the gauge fail to respond to the above tests indications are of possible loose connections, broken wire, or defective gauge.

The instrument cluster should be removed for further inspection. See “Instrument Cluster.”

OIL PRESSURE WARNING LIGHT

To test the oil pressure warning light, remove the terminal from the oil pressure sending unit. Connect one lead of the gauge tester to the terminal and the other test lead to a good ground.

With the ignition in the “on” position and the gauge tester in the

”L“

position, the indicator light should not light. With the gauge tester in the

“M” position, the indicator light should show a dull glow.

With the gauge tester in the “H” position, the indicator light should show full brilliance.

Should the oil pressure warning light fail to respond to the above tests, indications are of possible loose connections, broken wire, or burned out bulb.

Low Oil Pressure Warning Switch

The operation of the oil pressure warning switch, mounted on the engine, is dependent on variances in the engine oil pressure.

When the engine oil pressure is high (normal operating condition of the engine) the switch is held in the

”OFF“

“OPEN”

position allowing no current to flow to the oil pressure warning lamp on the instrument panel.

When the engine oil pressure is low, the switch is in the

“ON”

“CLOSED”

position allowing current to flow to the oil pressure warning light on the instrument panel. This causes the warning light to be illuminated.

Instrument Cluster Light Bulbs

All bulbs in the instrument cluster are contained in plug-in sockets in the printed circuit board. To remove the socket, turn it ?4 turn counterclockwise and pull out.

The light bulbs are serviced from under the instrument panel. For replacement bulb number, see

“Specifications.”

INSTRUMENT AND SPEEDOMETER

CLUSTERS

CAUTION: Disconnect battery negative cable before performing any service on the clusters.

Instrument Cluster

Removal

(1)

Disconnect battery ground cable.

(2)

Remove three screws that mount cluster to housing.

(3)

Roll cluster out and disconnect printed circuit plug and ammeter (alternator) wires.

(4) Remove cluster.

Installation

(1)

Position cluster in front

of

housing opening and connect printed circuit plug and ammeter (alternator) wires.

(2) Install cluster into housing and install three mounting screws.

(3) Connect battery ground cable.

Speedometer Cluster

Removal

(1)

Disconnect battery ground cable.

(2)

From under instrument cluster disconnect speedometer cable.

(3) Remove the three screws that mount cluster to housing.

(4) Roll cluster out and disconnect printed circuit

Plug.

(5)

Remove cluster.

Installation

(1)

Position cluster in front of housing opening and connect printed circuit plug.

(2) Install Cluster into housing and install the three mounting screws.

(3)

From under instrument panel connect speedometer cable.

(4)

Connect battery ground cable.

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INSTRUMENTS AND IN DlCATO RS-ELECTRICAL 8-55

CLUSTER COMPONENTS

Disassern bly

If the testing procedure shows a gauge to be faulty remove the screws that mount the cluster bezel to the cluster, remove the nuts that mount the gauge to the cluster and carefully remove the gauge from the cluster.

Assern bly

Carefully position the gauge in the cluster and install the mounting nuts. Due to the arrangement of the gauge mounting studs the gauges are self- indexing in the cluster housing. Position the cluster bezel on the housing and install the mounting screws.

Printed Circuit Board

The printed circuit board is removed from the instrument cluster by removing the three screws retaining the cluster bezel to the cluster can. Remove the fuel gauge and temperature gauge terminal nuts and remove the gauges. Remove the three screws from the printed circuit board and lift printed circuit board from back of the can.

visual inspection of the conductors should be made for cracks or damaged circuits. If no visual damage is evident, each circuit should be tested for continuity with an ohmmeter or a test light. Should an open circuit be detected, the printed circuit board should be replaced.

TESTS OUT

VEHICLE

Voltage Limiter

Connect a jumper wire from the positive post of a

12 volt battery to the “I” terminal of the fuel gauge.

Connect another jumper wire from the battery negative post to the temperature gauge case (ground).

Connect the negative lead of a voltmeter to the battery negative post. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the “I” terminal of the fuel gauge. A reading of 12 volts should be shown on the voltmeter.

Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the “A” terminal of the fuel gauge. A fluctuating reading between

0 and 7 volts should be shown on the voltmeter.

The same flutuating reading should be shown at the

“S”

terminal of the fuel gauge. Any other readings indicate the voltage limiter is not functioning properly and the fuel gauge should be replaced.

Fuel Tank Sending Unit

(1)

Remove fuel tank sending unit. See “Fuel Sys- tem,” Group 14.

(2) Using an Ohmmeter with a

0 to 100 ohm scale, connedt one lead to body of sending unit and the other lead to terminal in center

unit.

(3)

Hold unit so float arm contacts “Empty Stop.”

The reading on Ohmmeter scale should be 73 ohms, plus or minus 12.0 ohms.

(4)

Raise arm to “Full Stop.” The reading should now be 9.6 ohms, plus or minus

(5)

If unit does not perform to these specifications, inspect stops or arm for possible distortion. If stops or arm cannot be repaired or are not damaged, the unit should be replaced.

It is important that the ohmmeter i s accurate. An accurate value cannot be obtained if the ohmmeter has an error of more than 1 ohm in

10.

Test the ohmmeter with a known

10 ohm resistor.

Fuel Gauge (Fig. 4 )

Since the voltage limiter is contained in the temperature gauge it is necessary to remove both the instrument cluster and the speedometer cluster to bench test the fuel gauge.

Place the clusters on a padded service bench to protect the cluster finish.

The gauges in the instrument cluster can be tested with a fully charged 12 volt battery and gauge testing

To01 C-3826.

To prevent a possible error that might result in burning out the gauges the following test procedures should be closely followed.

CLUSTER BASE

~ ~ 5 5 1

Fig. 4-Testing Fuel Gauge

CAUTION: A direct connection from a

12 volt battery to the gauges will burn them out.

(1)

Connect a jumper wire to temperature gauge

“I” terminal and the other end of jumper to positive

(2) Connect a jumper wire from each of the two cluster bases to negative

(-) post of test battery.

(3)

Connect a jumper wire from “A” terminal of temperature gauge (terminal with the copper contact) to either terminal of fuel gauge.

(4)

Connect one lead of gauge tester, Tool C-3826, to unused terminal of fuel gauge and the other lead of tester to base of instrument cluster.

With gauge tester in

“L” position, fuel gauge should show “E” or minus 3/32 inch.

The minus tolerance provides a small fuel reserve when gauge i s on

“E” position.

MyMopar.com

8-56 ELECTRICAL-INSTRUMENTS AND INDICATORS

With gauge tester on

“M,”

fuel gauge should slowly advance to

?/2

position. With gauge tester on

”H,”

fuel gauge should show

“F“

plus or minus 3/32 inch. If gauge does not perform as above replace the fuel gauge.

Temperature Gauge (Fig.

5 )

The temperature guage is tested in the same manner as the fuel gauge with the Tester C-3826 and test battery connected in the following manner.

TO BATTERY POSITIVE

(+)

TO TEMPERATURE

GAUGE “S” TERMINAL

I K566

Fig. 5-Testing Temperature Gauge

(1)

Connect a jumper wire from the base of cluster to negative

(-) post of test battery.

(2) Connect a jumper wire from “I” terminal of temperature gauge to positive

(+) post of test battery.

(3) Connect one lead of gauge tester. Tool C-3826, to “sending” terminal of temperature gauge and the other lead of gauge tester to base of cluster.

With the gauge tester on

“L“

position, temperature gauge should show

“C”

or cold. With gauge tester on

”M”

position, temperature gauge should show

1/2

of the operating scale of the dial. With gauge tester on

“H” position, temperature gauge should show “H.” If gauge does not respond to above tests replace temperature gauge.

FUSE BLOCK

The fuse block is located at the forward edge of the instrument panel and is retained to the instrument panel lower reinforcement by a self tapping screw

(Fig. 6).

In the fuse block are mounted the radio, cigar lighter, air-conditioner or heater, tail-stop-dome light, and accessory fuses. The fuse capacity is printed on the fuse block as an aid to replacement requirements.

CIRCUIT BREAKERS

a safety precaution, circuit breakers are used for the headlamps and wiper circuits. They insure that these essential services will continue to function if an intermittent short circuit occurs.

Use only identical type and value circuit breakers as replacements during service. See “Specifications” for the location of circuit breakers.

Fig. 6-Fuse

Block

SWITCHES

Headlight Switch

The headlight switch is removed through the speedometer cluster opening. (See “Speedometer

Cluster Removal.”) After removing the speedometer cluster and the multiple connector, the switch knob is removed by depressing the release button on the terminal side of the switch. Using Tool (2-3824 remove the bezel nut on the front of the panel and withdraw the switch through the speedometer cluster opening.

Windshield Wiper Switch

The windshield wiper switch is serviced through the instrument cluster opening. (See “Instrument

Cluster Removal.”) Remove the multiple connector from the back of the switch. The knob is retained by a set screw and is removed before removing the bezel nut.

lgnition Switch

The ignition switch is removed in the same manner as the wiper switch after the bezel is removed. All accessory switches such as the emergency flasher, convertible top or the tailgate switches are removed from under the panel after the knob (retained by an

Allen screw) and the bezel nut is removed.

HEATER

AIR CONDITIONING

CONTROLS AND BLOWER SWITCH

(1)

Disconnect battery ground cable.

(2) On air-conditioning equipped models, the distribution duct and three spot cooler hoses are removed.

(3) Remove instrument cluster (see “Instrument

Cluster Removal”), cigar lighter and windshield wiper switch.

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(4)

Remove radio (see “Radio Removal” in Accesso- ries, Group 1).

(5) Reaching through instrument cluster opening, disconnect blower switch wires and vacuum hose connector from push button control assembly.

(6)

Remove the three nuts retaining push button control and blower switch to back of the panel and lower the assembly so temperature control cable can be disconnected under panel.

The vacuum switch is separated from the push button control by removing two self-tapping screws retaining it to the assembly. installation

(1)

Connect blower switch wires and vacuum connector to push button assembly.

TU R N S I G N

LS-E L ECT R I C

A L

8-57

(2)

Install temperature control cable and adjust.

(See “Control Cable Adjustment”-Accessories,

Group

1.)

(3)

Position push button control on mounting studs on back of panel first and the blower switch next and secure with the three nuts.

(4)

(See “Radio Installation” in Ac- cessories, Group 1.)

( 5 )

Install cigar lighter, wiper switch and instrument cluster. (See “Instrument Cluster Installation.”)

(6)

If air-conditioning equipped, install distribution duct and three spot cooler hoses.

(7)

Connect battery ground cable and test operation of switch and all instruments.

GENERAL INFORMATION

TURN SIGNALS

Turn signal indicators are mounted in the cluster on the instrument panel in the Polara model. On

Monaco models the turn signal indicators are omitted in the instrument panel and are mounted on the front fenders, visible from the drivers position (Fig. 1).

The non-tilt steering column utilizes a turn signal switch and canceling cam mounted directly below the steering wheel and horn contact switch.

lobe mounted directly to the underside of the steering wheel actuates the canceling cam which deactivates the turn signal switch mounted to the canceling cam assembly.

The Tilt Steering Column turn signal switch is mounted externally on the steering column near the bulkhead.

cancelling cam assembly, actuated by the lobe on the bottom of the steering wheel actuates the turn signal switch by means of a control cable.

The turn signal flasher is a plug in type mounted to the right of the steering column, under the instrument panel in a bracket mounted on the ash receiver housing.

LEFT PARK

AND TURN

LEFT TURN

AND STOP

RIGHT PARK

TURN AND

PANEL OR

G.“i‘l

FENDER

INDICATORS

SIGNAL

AMMETER

FUSE BLOCK

ABAT.

” p

RIGHT TURN

AND STOP

64x4208

Fig. 1 --Turn Signal Wiring-All Models

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8-58

ELECTRICAL-TURN SIGNALS

Condition

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

Possible Cause Correction

N 0 N-TI LT ST E E R I N G COLUMN

(a) Faulty pilot bulb in instrument cluster. (a) Replace bulb.

EXTERNAL LAMPS

OPERATE NORMALLY,

NO INDICATIONS ON

I NSTRU MENT CLUSTER

SYSTEM DOES NOT

FLASH

(a) Faulty flasher unit.

(b) Faulty external bulb.

(a)

Replace flasher.

(b) Replace faulty bulb.

SYSTEM DOES NOT

CANCEL AFTER

COMPLETION OF

TURN

(a) Broken or loose cancelling finger.

(b) Improperly aligned cancelling finger.

(a) Replace cancelling finger.

(b) Align cancelling finger properly.

ENTIRE SYSTEM DOES

NOT OPERATE

(a) Open circuit in feed wire to switch.

(b) Faulty fuse.

(a) Check wiring circuits. Refer to

“Wiring

Diagrams.”

(b) Replace fuse.

PILOT LAMP ILLUMI-

NATES BRIGHTLY,

ETERNAL LAMPS

GLOWS DIMLY WITH

NO FLASH

(a) Loose or corroded external lamp (a) Clean and tighten ground connection. ground connection.

TILT STEERING COLUMN

TURN SIGNAL NOT

CANCELLING FROM

EITHER TURN POSITION

(a) Clamps a t either end of the bowden cable are broken, loose or pulled off.

(b) Bowden cable wire loops uncoiled.

(d) Trigger spring is broken or unattached.

(e) Channel on underside of the turn signal yoke is not engaging the ball end of bellcrank.

(f) Turn signal binding preventing can- cellation. Wire ring on yoke pilot installed with open ends out of position.

(g) Dimples in actuator yoke worn allowing the override spring to pivot out of position.

(h) Signal switch mounting legs bent.

(a)

(b) Install a new bowden cable assembly.

(d) Install new trigger spring or attach trigger spring.

(e) Lift yoke and reposition on bellcrank.

(f) Reinstall with open ends i n hole for

(g)

Install a new bowden cable assembly. the signal switch lever.

Replace yoke assembly.

(h) install new switch.

TURN SIGNAL NOT

CANCELLING IN THE

EXTREME

DOWN

POSITION

OF THE

TILT WHEEL

(a) Detent spring deformed

switch (a) Install

new detent spring. will not remain indexed.

TURN SIGNAL NOT

OPERATING IN SOME

OF

THE TILT POSITIONS

(a) Turn signal switch is mounted incor- (a) Readjust signal switch. rectly on jacket tube.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

Removal-Non-Tilt Turn Signal

Switch

(1) Disconnect battery ground cable.

(2)

Compress and turn horn button

turn counterclockwise to release button from retainer.

(3)

Disconnect horn wire at horn switch.

(4)

Remove three screws and insulators attaching

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+ horn ring and horn switch to steering column. Re- move horn ring and switch.

(5)

Loosen steering wheel nut several turns and install Steering Wheel Puller Tool C-3428. Loosen steering wheel first. Then remove steering wheel nut and steering wheel.

(6) Remove screw attaching turn signal operating lever to turn signal switch and remove lever. umn jacket tube below instrument panel.

Attach a piece of string or fine wire to turn signal switch wiring before removing switch from steering column. When switch is removed leave string or wire in steering column jacket tube as an aid to replacement of wiring.

(8) Remove screws attaching turn signal switch to steering column and remove switch from top of steering column.

installation

(1)

Attach string or wire, left in steering column jacket tube during removal, to turn signal switch wiring and carefully pull string or wire down through column jacket tube until directional switch wires can be connected. Position turn signal switch in steering column jacket tube and install attaching screws and connect all wire connections.

(2) Install turn signal operating lever.

(3) Install steering wheel and steering wheel nut.

Tighten to 24 foot-pounds. Test operation of cancelling lever.

(4) Install horn switch, horn ring, insulators and attaching screws. Connect horn wire.

(5)

Install horn button by compressing and turning

Y4 turn clockwise to lock horn button on retainer.

(6)

Connect battery ground cable.

TILT AND TELESCOPING TURN SIGNAL

Removal-All Models

(1)

Remove the two hex head self-tapping screws from switch mounting bracket a t lower end of steering column.

(2)

Remove screw attaching cable clip to switch and disconnect multiple connector.

Installation-All Models

(1)

Attach coil end

the cable to switch post with

W I N D S H I E L D W I P E R S- E LE CT R I C A L 8-59

wire next to switch. Install cable clip and screw.

(2) Place steering column in “Down” position; turn signal handle and switch in cancel position.

(3) Connect multiple connector and secure switch to column making sure to center the two screws in bracket slots.

CONTROL CABLE

Removal

(1)

Remove steering wheel assembly and steering column cover.

(2) Remove turn signal handle and canceling cam spring. Using a pair of long needle nose pliers, gently pull cam assembly from pivot socket.

(3)

Remove cable clip and cable from switch.

(4)

Remove cable clip screw and slide coil end off upper cable lever. Pull cable up far enough to attach a fine flexible wire to cable to aid in installing cable.

(5)

Place gear selector in manual Low and steering column in straight ahead position. Remove cable from bottom of column, leaving wire in column.

lnstallat ion-All Models

( 1 )

Position steering column in straight ahead position and gear selector in manual Low.

(2) Attach flexible wire to “L” shaped cable clamp and feed cable through bottom of column while pulling on wire from top of column.

(3) Remove wire from cable clip, position coil end on upper cable lever with coil wire facing away from lever and install cable clip.

(4) Install canceling cam assembly, making sure to engage round head of upper cable lever head with

(5)

Install cam retaining spring and turn signal lever.

(6)

Place steering column in “Down” position and attach coil end to switch post with wire next to switch.

Install cable clip and screw.

(7)

Place turn signal lever and switch in neutral position and secure switch to column. Be sure to center mounting screws in slots.

Do not distort the cable in any way.

(8)

Install steering wheel assembly and steering column cover.

WINDSHIELD WIPER SYSTEM

INDEX

General Information

Service Diagnosis

...........................

.............................

Page

Wiper Links

Wiper Pivot

...................................

Page

..................................

Replacement

Tests and Adjustments

........................

60 Wiper Switch Test

.............................

Wiper Blade Replacement

.....................

64 Wiper System Lubrication

......................

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8-60

E

ECT

R IC

A L-W

N D S H

E L D

W I

PER S

GENERAL IN FORMATION

The wiper motor is connected to the wiper switch and from the wiper switch

“B”

terminal to the

“ACC,” accessory, terminal of the ignition switch so the wiper motor can be actuated only when the ignition switch is turned to the right or left positions. The wiper circuitry is protected by a circuit breaker that is built into the wiper switch.

The variable speed wiper system has a depressed

+ parking feature which is accomplished by reversing the direction of the wiper motor and the use of a parking cam on the motor crank pin. When the wiper switch is turned

“OFF,“

the motor direction is reversed and at the same time the parking cam rotates

180 degrees, lengthening the drive link slightly to park the wiper blades in a depressed position. The drive link shortens when the motor runs in the wipe direction (Fig. 1).

Condition

WIPER FAILS TO

OPERATE

WIPER BLADES NOT

PARKING PROPERLY

Possible

Cause

(a) Binding linkage.

(b)

Faulty instrument panel switch.

(d) Faulty motor.

(e) Open or grounded wiring.

AGN OS1 S

Correction

(a) Relieve the binding condition.

(b) Test Switch. See “Wiper Switch strum en t

Pa ne I Mounted)

.”

(In-

(d) Test motor. See “Wiper Motor Bench

Testing.”

(e) Test wiring for continuity. Repair as necessary.

(a)

Arm set at incorrect position. (a) Adjust arm. See “Wiper men t.”

Arm

Adjust-

(b)

Motor park switch timing incorrect. (b) Time park switch. See “Wiper Motor

Park Switch Timing.”

(d) Parking spring release not engaging (d) Inspect “Wiper Link Assembly.” stop on linkage. (Variable Speed)

As-

BLADES SLAP WIND-

SHIELD MOULDINGS

BLADES CHATTER

(a) Improperly adjusted

(b)

drive parts, wiper arm. (a) See “Wiper

Arm

Adjustment.”

Looseness of the motor crank or other

(b)

Replace the faulty part.

(a) Twisted arm holds blade at wrong an- (a) Replace gle to glass. ish on glass. wiper

(b) Bent or damaged blades. (b) Replace blades.

MOTOR WILL NOT STOP

WHEN INSTRUMENT

PANEL SWITCH

TURNED

“OFF”

(a) Motor park switch failure

“closed” position. in the (a) Repair or replace motor park switch.

MOTOR STOPS IN ANY

POSITION WHEN IN-

STRUMENT PANEL

SWITCH IS TURNED

“0 FF”

(a) Motor park switch failure in the (a) Repair or replace motor park switch.

(b)

“open” posit ion.

Open parking circuit.

(b) Test continuity of blue wiring circuit and correct a s necessary.

NO SPEED CONTROL

WAR

I AB

LE SPEED)

(a) Open circuit in yellow wiring.

(b) Defective control switch.

TESTS AND ADJUSTMENTS

WIPER ARM ADJUSTMENT-Variable Speed

T~ determine if an adjustment is required, apply a constant upward force of

ounces, parallel to the windshield glass, at the end of the wiper arm (where the wiper blade is attached to the arm). With the 50 ounce force applied, pull the wiper blade away from

(a) Test continuity and correct as neces- sa ry.

(b) Replace switch. the windshield glass once or twice to prevent glass friction from affecting downward movement of the wiper arm and blade. With the force applied, the clearance between the tip of the wiper blade and the windshield lower moulding should be between

34

and

234

inches on the left side and between 1 and 3 inches on the right side of the vehicle. If the clearance is not in the

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RIGHT

PIVOT

ASSEMBLY

WINDSHIELD W l PERS-ELECTRICAL 8-61

RING WASHER

SPRING WASHER

Fig.

]-Windshield Wiper System

specified range, use Tool

C-3982

and resposition the wiper arm and blade assembly (Fig. 2).

regardless of how carefully it is reinstalled. NEVER under any circumstances push or bend the spring clip in the base of the arm in an attempt to release the arm. This clip is self-releasing.

Single Speed

To determine if an adjustment is required apply a constant downward force of

25 ounces, parallel to the windshield glass, at the end of the wiper arm (where the wiper blade is attached to the arm). With the

ounce force applied pull the wiper blade away from the windshield glass once or twice to prevent glass friction from affecting downward movement of the wiper arm and blade. With this force applied the clearance between the tip of the wiper blade and the windshield moulding should be between Vi and

inches on the left side and between

1 and

inches on the right side of the vehicle. If the clearance is not in the specified range, use Tool

C-3982

and reposition the wiper arm and blade assemble (Fig.

2).

Fig. 2-Removing Wiper Arm and

Blade Assembly

CAUTION: The use of a screwdriver or other prying tool to remove an arm may distort it in a manner that will allow it to come off the pivot shaft in the future,

WIPER MOTOR PARK SWITCH TIMING

The timing of the motor park switch must be:

(a) Late enough that the wiper arms come to rest at extreme lower limit of travel on dry glass.

(b) Early enough that wiper arms do not rise appreciably beyond lower limit of travel on fully wet glass.

Adjust timing of park switch on wiper motor to provide “shut off” at lowest point of wiper blade travel under both wet and dry glass conditions.

When adjusting the timing of the variable speed park switch, note that the variable speed motor rotates in reverse at the time the park switch opens.

“Early” and “late” directions are therefore opposite to single speed motors.

WIPER PARKING OPERATION TEST-

Variable Speed

(1)

Turn instrument panel wiper s,witch to

and allow wiper system to run through several cycles of operation.

(2) Very slightly, after wiper blades reach top

of

wipe pattern, turn wiper switch to

OFF

to cause blades to park in a one-half cycle of wiper motor operation.

If blades do not park in desired

1/2

cycle but require

1!42 cycles to park, procedure of going through switching operation must be repeated as follows:

(a) Turn switch to

”ON”

position and allow wiper system to operate for a few cycles.

(b) Turn switch to

“OFF”

position, only this time allow timing of operating switch to occur at a position in respect to wiper blade travel slightly later than

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8-62 E LECTR ICA L-W I N D S H I E LD W I PE R S

first operation. Again, note cycle requirements to reach park.

Having parked wiper system in

V 2

cycle of motor operation, note whether wiper blades have traveled well below normal wipe pattern. If they have not, replacement of parking cam, spring and spring trip is indicated. If they have, but have not met requirements for proper park position, wiper arm adjustment is required.

E N D PLAY ADJUSTMENT

To adjust the armature shaft end play turn adjustment screw in until it bottoms and back-off % turn

(Fig.

3).

This adjustment can be made without removing the wiper motor from the vehicle.

--.a”-

END PLAY

ADJUSTMENT SCREW

62 x

307

Fig.

3-End

Play

Adjustment

WIPER SWITCH TEST

Variable Speed

The switch contains a rheostat which provides a means of controlling the amount of current which flows to the motor. The switch is designed to provide a circuit to the motor to reverse the current to the field winding which in turn reverse the direction of the armature. A circuit breaker, built into the switch, protects the wiper motor circuitry.

To test the switch, disconnect the wiring to the switch and remove the switch from the instrument panel. For removal and installation of the wiper switch, see “Instruments and Indicators.”

Using a continuity tester or an ohmmeter, test for continuity, no resistance, between the contact terminals of the switch as shown in the following chart. For test purposes the “Park” position is when the switch is in the “off” position. The “Low” position is when the switch is just turned “on.” The “High” position is when the switch knob is rotated to the high or maximum wiper speed position. In the test chart the reference “Ground” means to attach one lead of the con-

+ tinuity tester

The bench or ohmmeter to the case of the switch. test of the switch does not require the

use

of a

volt battery.

Variable Speed

Switch

Continuity Chart

Off

B to

B I U

B / U to

A to F2

F1 to Ground

Low

B to B I U

B I U to A

A to

F2 to Ground

P-open

High

B to B / U

B I U toA

*A through the rheostat to

to Ground

P-open

*As the switch knob is rotated the resistance shown on the ohmmeter should vary from a high reading to a low reading in a smooth rate of change or if a continuity tester is being used the brightness of the test lamp should vary from bright to dim.

Single Speed

The switch contains a built in circuit breaker to protect the wiper motor circuitry and is serviced only as an assembly. To test the switch, refer to the proper wiring diagram, disconnect the lead wires and remove the switch from the instrument panel. For removal and installation of the wiper switch, see

“Instruments and Indicators.’’ Connect a test lamp between

“B”

terminal of the switch and the negative battery post.

Connect the positive battery terminal to the “P” terminal of the post. Lamp should remain lighted in either

“ON”

“OFF”

position. Failure to light indicates a faulty circuit breaker.

Connect the positive battery lead to the nal of the switch. The lamp should light when the switch is turned

“ON”

and go out when turned

.”

WIPER SYSTEM LUBRICATION

Should it be necessary to service the wiper system for any reasons, the parking spring in the

variable speed

parking mechanism should be lubricated with

Led-Plate, Part No.

2275437,

or equivalent lubricant containing powdered lead. Apply the Led-Plate to inside coils of spring first and to the outside of the spring coils after installation of the spring.

The

single speed

crank arm pin and the pivot pins for either variable or single speed systems should be lubricated with Lubriplate Part No.

1064768

or equivalent.

Should the wiper motor gear box be disassembled, it should be repacked with Automotive Multi-Purpose

Lubricant, NLGI

Use of lubricants other than those specified above will result in noisy operation, rapid wear of components and premature failure of the system.

WIPER MOTOR

Removal

(1)

Using Tool

C-3982,

remove wiper arm and blade

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WINDSHIELD WI PERS-ELECTRICAL 8-63

assemblies (Fig.

2).

(2)

Remove windshield lower moulding.

(3)

Remove cowl grille panel. See “Body-Group

23.”

(4)

Remove drive crank retaining nut and drive crank. Disconnect wiring to motor.

(5)

Remove the three nuts that mount motor to dash panel and remove motor.

/nstallation

(1) Position motor on three studs on dash panel.

Make certain rubber gasket, between motor and dash panel, is properly positioned.

(2)

Install the three nuts that mount motor to dash panel and connect wiring to motor. Make certain ground strap is screwed to switch plate under one of mounting nuts.

(3)

Position drive crank on motor and install mounting nut.

(4) Install cowl grille panel.

(5)

Install windshield lower moulding.

(6)

Using Tool

C-3982,

install and adjust wiper arm and blade assemblies.

WIPER LINKS

To service either the drive link or the connecting link it is necessary to remove the wiper arm and blade assemblies, the windshield lower moulding and the cowl grille panel to provide access to the wiper system. See “Body, Group

23.”

Removal

(1)

With wiper system in “Park” position remove retainer clip from end of motor drive crank and pin.

For variable speed

’

(2)

Remove spr ing washer and drive link from drive crank pin.

(3)

Remove reta iner clip from connecting link pin on right pivot.

(4)

Remove the

1 nuts that mount left pivot to body.

(5)

Remove link s and left pivot through cowl grille panel opening. Thc

? connecting link can be serviced on bench after links a re removed from vehicle. installation

Make certain wiper system is in “Park” position before starting installation procedures.

(1)

With connecting link and drive link and left pivot assemblies as a unit, insert links through cowl grille panel opening and position bushing of connecting link on pin of right pivot and install retainer clip.

Make certain retainer clip is completely seated on pivot pin.

(2)

Install left pivot.

(3)

Position motor end of drive link on drive crank pin of motor. Make certain

“0”

retainer and cam are in proper positions for variable speed wiper systems (Fig.

1).

Install spring washer and retainer clip.

(4)

Install cover on mechanism on variable speed wiper systems.

(5)

Install cowl grille panel, windshield lower moulding and install and adjust wiper arm and blade assemblies.

WIPER PIVOT REPLACEMENT

To service either of the wiper pivots it is necessary to remove the wiper arm and blade assemblies, the windshield lower moulding and the cowl grille panel.

See “Body-Group

23.”

The right pivot is serviced after disconnecting the connecting link at the pivot and removing the screws that mount the pivot to the body.

The left pivot is serviced after disconnecting the connecting link at the right pivot, disconnecting the drive crank at the motor, removing the screws that mount the left pivot to the body and removing the links and left pivot as an assembly out through the cowl grille panel opening.

WIPER MOTOR BENCH TESTING

Variable Speed

(1)

Connect a jumper wire between wiper motor green wire and wiper motor ground strap. Connect another jumper wire between battery negative terminal and wiper motor ground strap. Connect another jumper wire between wiper motor red and brown wires and battery positive terminal. The wiper motor should run continuously in wipe direction.

(2)

Connect a jumper wire between wiper motor blue wire and battery positive terminal. Connect green wire to brown wire. Connect another jumper wire between wiper motor red wire and wiper motor ground strap and battery negative terminal. The wiper motor should run in reverse and stop at park position.

Single Speed

(1) Connect a jumper wire between battery negative terminal and wiper motor ground strap. Connect another jumper wire between black wire of wiper motor and battery positive terminal. The motor should run continuously.

(2)

Connect a jumper wire between battery negative post and wiper motor ground strap. Connect another jumper wire between black wire of wiper motor and red wire of wiper motor. Connect blue wire to battery positive terminal. The wiper motor should

“park.”

Disassem

(1)

bly

Remove spring retaining clip and washers on motor output shaft, noting sequence of removal of washers.

(2)

Remove switch and cover plate.

(3)

Remove gear and shaft assembly.

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8-64 E LECTR

C A

L-H

0 R N S

(4)

Remove end head through bolts and pull off end head using care to avoid damaging lead wire to brush holder on variable speed motors.

(5)

Remove armature using care to keep commutator free of fingerprints and oil.

(1) Thoroughly inspect motor parts for wear, corrosion or damage.

(2)

Clean armature commutator with 00 to 000 sandpaper, if commutator is worn excessively, wiper motor will have to be replaced.

(3)

Replace worn or oil soaked brushes.

(4)

Inspect gears for worn or broken teeth and replace those showing damage or excessive wear.

(5)

If excessive grease leakage has occurred a t output shaft, remove seal, which is pressed into housing at output shaft, while being careful not to damage inside diameter of housing. Press in new seal before reassembling wiper motor.

Assembly

(1)

Insert armature into motor assembly.

(2)

Install end head through bolts using care to avoid damaging lead wire to brush holder on variable speed motors.

(3)

Install gear and shaft assembly. Check for adequate lubricant in gear housing, see “Wiper System

Lubrication.”

(4)

Install washers on motor output shaft, make certain washers are installed in proper order, and install spring retaining clip.

(5)

Replace gasket under park switch cover.

(6)

Install switch and cover plate.

WIPER BLADE REPLACEMENT

Exposure to heat and road splash tends to harden the rubber wiper blades. When the blades smear or in general do not satisfactorily clean the windshield, they should be replaced.

To replace, depress the release on the top of the blade assembly and slide out the rubber blade. Slide the new rubber blade into the blade assembly until it locks in place. Refer to the Parts List for the correct rubber blade refill.

Condition

HORNS

WILL

NOT

SOUND

HORNS SOUND CONTIN-

UOUSLY

H O R N S

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

Possible Cause

(b)

(C)

(d)

Improper adjustment.

Broken or faulty wiring.

Fau Ity horn.

Faulty relay.

Correction

See

“Ad jusjti ng.”

See

“Testing.”

See “Testing.” Replace horn if necessary.

See “Testing.” Replace relay if necessary.

(a)

(b)

Shorted wiring.

Horn button sticking.

See

“Testing.”

Disconnect battery ground cable. Release horn button. After correction connect battery ground cable.

Replace relay.

(C)

Relay sticking.

Testing

Touch a jxmper wire from relay “S” terminal to ground. If horn-sounds, difficulty is in the horn button contact ring, the grounding of the steering column or in the wire from “S” terminal to the horn button. If the horn fails to sound connect a jumper wire from “B” to relay is faulty. If horns fail to operate, difficulty is in wire to the horns, in the horns, the wire to horn relay

“B” terminal or in the grounding of the steering column.

Adjusting

(1)

Disconnect connections at each horn to determine which horn is not operating.

(2) Remove horn and bracket assembly.

(3) With a suitable tool (Fig. l), counterclockwise until there is no vibration (sound).

(4)

Turn tone adjuster clockwise, approximately

1/4

turn a t a time until tone has a clear mellow sound. Do not turn tone adjuster while horn is sounding.

63x642

Fig. I-Adjusting Horn (Sparton Horn Shown)

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Adjustment will only clear up sound and cannot change horn tone frequency.

(5) Connect a test ammeter between positive post of a 12 volt battery and horn terminal post. Connect a jumper lead from negative battery post to horn base.

Clean paint f r o m horn bracket where connection is made. Turn adjusting screw to obtain a reading of six

SPECIFICATIONS-ELECTRICAL

8-65

amperes minimum to eight amperes maximum for

Sparton horns and eight amperes minimum t o ten amperes maximum for Prestolite horns at 12.5 volts.

Amperage must not exceed eight amperes maximum for Sparton horns and ten amperes maximum for Prestolite horns.

SPEC1 FlCATlONS

BATTERY

Model Usage

..........................................................

Capacity (Amperes)

.....................................................

Voltage

................................................................

Number of Plates Per Cell

.............................................

Ground Terminal

.......................................................

Model Identification Number

...........................................

STARTER

SOLENOID SHIFT

(Reduction Gear Type)

(All

Models)

Starter Identification

No.

Make

................................................

..................................................................

Voltage

.................................................................

No. of Fields

...........................................................

..........................................................

No. of Poles

Brushes

Drive

................................................................

Spring Tension

.........................................................

...................................................................

End Play

................................................................

Cranking Amperage Draw Test

...........................................

Free-Ru nning Test

Voltage

..............................................................

Amperage Draw Maximum

Speed RPM

............................................

...........................................................

Lock-Resistance Test

Voltage

...............................................................

Amperage Draw

......................................................

Solenoid Switch

Pull-In Coil

...........................................................

Hold-In Coil

..........................................................

*Engine at normal operating temperature.

All Models

Negative

27-M 6-70

2095150

Chrysler Built

4 (3 Series, 1

32 to 36 Ounces

Overrunning CI utch

.010"-.045"

165 to 185 Amps.*

1925 to 2400

400 to 450

14.4-16.0 Amps. @ 6.0 Volts

11.5-12.6 Amps.

6.0 Volts

MyMopar.com

8-66 E L ECT R

C A L-S P E C I F I CAT

0 S

ALTERNATOR A N D VOLTAGE REGULATOR

ALTERNATOR

ALTERNATORS

Rotation

Voltage

.........................................................

..........................................................

Current Output

Voltage Output

Brushes (Field)

...................................................

Condenser Capacity

..............................................

Clockwise at Drive End

12 Volt System

Design Controlled

Limited by Voltage Regulator

.50 Microfarad plus or minus 20%

Field Current Draw-

Rotating Rotor by Hand @ 12 Volts

.............................

2.38 to 2.75 Maximum amperes

Current Output-

Standard

.......................................................

pecia

Equipment,

Heavy Duty and/or Air Conditioning

...........................

Special Equipment

................................................

34.5 plus or minus 3 amperes*

44 plus or minus 3 amperes*

51 plus or minus 3 amperes*

*Plus or minus three ampere tolerance is provided to allow for temperature variation. Current output is measured at 1250 engine RPM and 15 volts at the alternator.

measured at the battery, current output will be approximately 5 amperes lower than above valves.

Voltage is controlled by variable load (carbon pile) across the battery.

ALTERNATOR VO LTAG E REGULATOR

Alternator Voltage (Chrysler Built)

Regulator I dent if icat ion Number

Volts

.............................

........................................................

2098300

Ground Polarity

Point Gap

.............................................

Negative

..........................

.......................

.014 inch plus or minus .002 inch

Air Gap

......................................................

.048 to .052 inch nominal setting

**Measure gap with gauge back of stop.

(Essex Wire Built)

2444980

Negative

.014 inch plus or minus .004 inch

.032 to .042 inch

Temperature in Degrees 47O F. 70" F. 93OF. 117OF. 140OF. 163OF.

Minimum Setting

..............

13.6 to 13.5 to 13.4 to 13.3 to 13.2 to 13.1 to

Maximum Setting

..............

14.6 14.5 14.4 14.3 14.2 14.1

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Door Locks

Lighting System

Power Windows.

Power Seats.

Top Lift and Tail Gate

Windshield Wiper

(Single Speed)

(Variable Speed)

SPECIFICATIONS-ELECTRICAL 8-71

CIRCUIT BREAKERS

Location

Ampere

Rating

Behind left front kick panel

.......................................................

I ntegra I with

Headlight

.......................................................

Behind left front kick panel

......................................................

I ntegra I with

Wiper Switch

.....................................................

......................................................

LIGHT

BULBS

Ash Receiver

Auto Pilot

............................................................

...............................................................

Back-up Lights

Clock

Instrument Cluster Illumination

..........................................................

...........................................................

..............................................................

Oil Pressure Indicator

....................................................

Panel and/or Ridge Light

Park and Turn Signal

Radio

..........................................................

...................................................................

Dome Lights

License Light

Map Light

............................................................

Door and/or Pocket

Emergency Flasher

......................................................

Fender Mounted Turn Signals

Gear Selector Indicator

Gear Selector with Console

Glove Compartment

Handbrake Indicator

Heater and/or A

......................................................

Control

High Beam Indicator

Ignition Switch

..................................................................

Sealed Beam-Hi-Beam

..................................................

..............................................

.....................................................

..............................................

................................................

....................................................

..........................................

Sealed Beam-Lo-Beam Sealed Beam-Hi-Lo Beam

................

Tachometer with Console

Tail Lights

................................................

..............................................................

Tail Stop and Turn Signal

Turn 'Signal Indicator

................................................

Trunk and/or Under Hood Light

..........................................

....................................................

FUSES

Circuit

Accessories

Cigar Lighter

Heater or Air Conditioning

Instruments

Radio

.............................................................

............................................................

Rear Air Conditioning

Tail. Stop. Dome

................................................

............................................................

..................................................................

....................................................

........................................................

Bulb

Number

53x

1073

158

1004

1893

53x

1891

257

53x

158

1445

1004

158

1034A

1893

4001

4002

1034

1004

158

Ampere

Rating

20AMP

20 AMP

AMP

5 AMP

20 AMP

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8-72

ELECTR ICAL-W

I R

I N

G

D I

AG RAMS

WIRING DIAGRAMS

INDEX

Air Conditioning

Body-Monaco Models

........................

Body-Polara Models Except Station Wagon

. . . . .

Body-Station Wagon

.........................

Console

Page

...................

See Group 24

....

76 Manual Transmission Without Tachometer

Manual Transmission With Tachometer

Automatic Transmission Without Tachometer

Automatic Transmission With Tachometer

Electric Door Lock

..................

Engine Compartment

.......

. .

. . . . .

See Group 23

..........................

Power Seat

.........................

See Group 23

Power Window and Vent

.............

See Group 23

Tail Gate Window or Convertible Top Lift See Group 23

DOOR SWITCH

RIGHT

LAMPS

DOOR SWITCH

TO FUEL TANK

SENDING UNIT

TO REAR WINDOW

DEFOGGER SWITCH

WIRING

V C l 1

C12-RESISTANCE CABLELC13-Cl3A

TO TOP

LIFT

LAMPS wriOUND TO

BLOWER HOUSING

REAR

GNDOW

DEFOGGER MOTOR

I I

l l

-1

I I I

LICENSE

LAMP

- 1 7 D q

B2A

Fig.

-Body Wiring-(Except Station W a g o n ) - P o k r a Models

NK74SA

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8-14

ELECTRICAL-WIRING DIAGRAMS

CONSOLE FEED WITH MANUAL

TRANSMISSION WITHOUT TACHOMETER

= - M I D - - - -

TOP LIFT OR TAILGATE

WINDOW LIFT SWITCH

- - - - - ~

CONSOLE

-ACCESSORY FEED

TO SPOTLIGHT

TO TOP LIFT OR TAILGATE

WINDOW LlFf (BODY)

TO REVERBERATOR

REAR WINDOW

DEFOGGER SWlTC

AIR CONDITIONING

AND HEATER

DASH

X26.

\ -

I I

I I

I I

t e 2 -

IDY

IRING

-GS-

4 3 4 -

DRIVE MECHANISM

D10-

STOP

K12-

-E2-

.D9-

G 6 -

Fig.

3--lnstrument

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WIRING

Dl AG RAMS-ELECTRICAL

8-75

-G6

-G2-

NN685

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8-76

ELECTRICAL-WIRING DIAGRAMS

TO AIR CONDITIONING

SWITCH WIRING c22

TAIL GATE LIMIT SWITCH

TO SIDE COWL

ByW15G

CIRCUIT BREAKER

W15B

IrP

IN BODY WIRING'

X 2 A

GROUND

A TO CIGAR

TO CONSOLE ON

LAMP FEED CABLE

INSTRUMENT PANEL

SPLICE

-x2 L

GROUND AT LEFT SIDE COWL

TO LEFT FRONT -M2E

AUTOMATIC DOOR SWITCH

LEFT

FRONT DOOR

COURTESY LAMP

Fig. 5-Console Wiring-Manual Transmission Without Tachometer

YELLOW

BLACK

NK892A

MyMopar.com

COURTESY LAMP

WIRING DlAG RAMS-ELECTRICAL

8-77

TACHOMETER

SENDING UNIT

LAMP

COURTESY LAMP

GROUND AT LEFT

TO LEFT FRONT AUTOMATIC

DOOR SWITCH

Fig. 6-Console Wiring-Manual Transmission w i t h Tachometer

NN467

CIRCUITS

WITH TRACER

CONSOLE COURTESY LAMP

TO BODY WIRING

LEFT FRONT DOOR

COURTESY

LAMP

SIDE COWL

Fig. I - C o n s o l e Wiring-Automatic Transmission Without Tachometer

NN469

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8-78

ELECTRICAL-WIRING DIAGRAMS

Fig. 8-Console Wiring-Automatic Transmission W i t h Tachometer

NN466

M2C

TO REAR WINDOW

D E m x ; G w i m

TO CONSOLE

WIRING

Fig. 9-Body Wiring-Monaco Models

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GROUP

ENGINE AND ENGINE OILING

GENERAL INFORMATION

SERVlC E Dl AG NOSlS

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM

Page

1

4 CLOSED CRANKCASE VENTILATING

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1 SYSTEM FOR CALIFORNIA

318 CUBIC INCH ENGINE

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

383-426 CUBIC INCH ENGINE

ENGINE OILING

. . . . . . . . . . .

22 SPECIFICATIONS

. . . . .

43

. . . . . . . . . . .

......................

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

.19-40

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Page

44

46

51 ENGINE APPLICATION

MODEL

APPLl CAT10 N

POLARA

MONACO

Engine Type

No. Cyl. Displacement

8 “A” 318 Cubic Inch

8 “LB” 383 Cubic Inch

8 “RB” 426 Cubic Inch

GENERAL INFORMATION

The

engines for the

1966

Polara & Monaco models are a l l the valve-in-head type w i t h hydraulic tappets. The engines vary in piston displacement, compression ratio, camshaft, valve springs and power output (Figs.

and 2).

The

318

cubic inch engine has a

9.0

to 1 compression ratio, mechanical tappets, two bore carburetor uses regular fuel.

There are two

383

cubic inch engines, one i s

9.0 to 1

9.2 to

10.0 to

Compression

Ratio

2 BBI. Carb., Etd. Cam., Si1 Air Cleaner

2 BBI. Carb., Std. Cam., Sil. Air Cleaner

BBI. Carb., Std., Cam., Double Snorkle

Air Cleaner, Single Exhaust sion ratio; uses regular fuel and one i s equipped with a four bore carburetor, 10.0 to 1 compression ratio, uses premium fuel.

The

426

cubic inch engine has a

10.3

to 1 compression ratio, four bore carburetor, uses premium fuel.

The engine oiling system consists of a rotor type o i l pump and a full flow o i l filter. The

318

cubic inch engine o i l pump is mounted internally. The

383

and

426

cubic inch engine o i l pump is mounted externally.

O i l i s forced by the oil pump to a series of o i l passages in the engine.

Condition

ENGINE WILL

NOT START

ENGINE STALLS

SERVlC E DIAGNOSIS

Possible

Cause Correction

Weak battery. (a

Corroded or loose battery connections. (b)

Test battery specific gravity and recharge or replace as necessary.

Clean and tighten battery connections.

Apply a coat of petrolatum to ter-

Faulty starting motor.

(C)

Moisture on ignition wires and dis- (d) tributor cap. mi na

Is.

Refer to “Starting Motor.”*

Wipe wires and cap clean and dry.

Faulty ignition cables. (e)

Replace any cracked or shorted cables.

Faulty coil or condenser.

Test and replace if necessary.*

Dirty or corroded distributor contacts. (g)

Clean or replace as necessary.

Incorrect spark plug gap. (h)

Set gap at .035”.

(m)

Incorrect ignition timing.

Incorrect carburetoi float setting.

Faulty fuel pump.

Carburetor percolating. carburetor.

(i)

Refer to “Ignition Timing.”*

Dirt or water in fuel line or carburetor. (j)

Carburetor flooded.

Clean lines and carburetor.**

(k)

Ad just float level-c heck seats.** i j j

Clean lines and carburetor.**

(m) Install new fuel pump.**

No fuel i n the (n) Measure float level.** Adiust bowl vent. Inspect operation of- manifold control valve.

Idle speed set too low.

Incorrect choke adjustment.

Idle mixture too clean or too rich.

Incorrect carburetor float setting.

Leak in intake manifold.

(a)

Adjust carburetor.**

(b) Adjust choke.**

(d) Adjust float setting.**

(e) Inspect intake manifold gasket and replace if necessary.**’

MyMopar.com

9-2 ENGINE

__I

Fig.

-Front End Sectional View

KU54

Fig. 2-Left Side Sectional V i e w

KR135

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Condition

ENGINE LOSS

POWER

NOISY VALVES

CONNECTING

ROD

NOISE

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS 9-3

Possible Cause Correction

Dirty, burned or incorrectly gapped distributor contacts.

Worn or burned distributor rotor.

Incorrect ignition wiring.

Faulty coil or condenser.

Incorrect tappet lash.

(f) Replace contacts and adjust.*

(g) Install new rotor.

(h) Install correct wiring.

(i) Test and replace if necessary.**

(j) Adjust to specifications.

Incorrect ignition timing.

Worn or burned distributor rotor.

Wrong mechanical or vacuum advance

(distributor).

Excessive play in distributor shaft.

Worn distributor shaft cam.

Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark p I ugs.

Dirt or water in fuel line, carburetor or filter.

Incorrect carburetor float setting.

Faulty fuel pump.

Incorrect valve timing.

Blown cylinder head gasket.

Low compression.

(m) Burned, warped, pitted valves.

Plugged or restricted exhaust system.

Faulty ignition cables.

Faulty coil or condenser.

(a) Refer to “Ignition Timing.”*

(b) Install new rotor.

Adjust mechanical advance.

(d) Remove and repair distributor.*

(e) Remove and repair distributor.*

(f) Clean plugs and set gap at

.035”.

(g) Clean lines, carburetor and replace filter.**

(h) Adjust float level.**

(i) Install new pump.

(j) Refer to “Checking Valve Timing.”***

(k) Install new head gasket.***

(I) Test compression of each cylinder.***

(m) Install new valves.***

(n) Install new parts as necessary.

(01

Replace any cracked or shorted cables.

(p) Test and replace as necessary.*

Dirty, burned or incorrectly gapped distributor contacts.

Dirty, or gap too wide in spark plugs.

Incorrect ignition timing.

Dirt in carburetor.

Acceleration pump in carburetor.

Burned, warped or pitted valves.

Faulty coil or condenser.

(a) Replace contacts and adjust.*

(b) Clean spark plugs and set gap a t

.035“.

(d) Clean carburetor.**

(e) Install new pump.**

(f) Install new valves.***

(g) Test and replace if necessary.*

Dirty or incorrectly gapped distributor contacts.

Dirty or gap set too wide i n spark plug.

Worn distributor shaft cam.

Worn or burned distributor rotor.

Excessive play in distributor shaft.

Faulty coil or condenser.

Incorrect ignition timing.

Dirty jets in carburetor.

Dirt or water in fuel line, carburetor or filter.

(a) Clean or replace as necessary.*

(b) Clean spark plugs and set gap at

.035“.

(d) Install new rotor.

(e) Remove and repair distributor.*

(f) Test and replace if necessary.*

(g) Refer to “Ignition Timing.”*

(h) Clean jets.**

(i) Clean lines, carburetor and replace f i ter.**

High or low oil level in crankcase.

Thin or diluted oil.

Low oil pressure.

Dirt in tappets.

Bent push rods.

Worn rocker arms.

Worn tappets.

Worn valve guides.

Excessive run-out

valve seats

valve faces.

Incorrect tappet lash.

(a) Check for correct oil level.***

(b) Change oil.***

(d) Clean tappets.****

(e) Install new push rods.***

(f) Inspect oil supply to rockers.***

(g)

Install new tappets.

(h) Ream and install new valves with O/S stems.***

(i) Grind valve seats and valves.***

(j)

Adjust to specifications.

Insufficient oil supply.

(b) Low oil pressure.

(a) Check engine oil level. Inspect oil pump relief valve, damper and spring.***

(b) Check engine oil level.***

MyMopar.com

9-6 318 CUBIC INCH ENGINE

(3) Remove torque nuts from insulator studs.

(4) Raise engine just enough to remove front engine mount assembly.

lnstallat ion

(1)

Install insulator to engine bracket and tighten to specified torque.

(2) Lower the engine and install washers and prevailing torque nuts to insulator studs; tighten nuts to specified torque.

(3) Connect throttle at transmission and carburetor.

REAR ENGINE SUPPORT (Fig. 5)

Removal

(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.

(2) Install transmission jack.

(3) Remove rear engine crossmember from frame and remove rear mount.

lnst allation

(1)

Install rear engine mount to crossmember and tighten nut to specified torque.

(2) Install rear crossmember to frame and tighten bolts to specified torque.

(3) Remove transmission jack.

(4) Install rear engine mount to transmission bolts and tighten to specified torque.

(5) Lower vehicle.

ENGINE ASSEMBLY

Removal

(1)

Scribe the outline of hinge brackets on hood to assure proper adjustment when installing.

(2) Remove hood.

(3) Drain cooling system and remove battery.

(4) Remove all hoses, fan shroud (if so equipped), oil cooler lines and radiator.

(5) Disconnect fuel lines, linkage and wires attached to engine units and remove air cleaner and carburetor.

(6) Attach engine lifting fixture Tool C-3466 to the carburetor flange studs on intake manifold.

(7) Raise vehicle on a hoist and install engine support fixture Tool C-3487 on the chassis to support rear of engine.

( 8 )

Drain transmission and torque converter.

(9) Disconnect exhaust pipes at manifolds, propeller shaft, wires linkage, speedometer cable, and oil cooler lines at transmission.

(10) Remove engine rear support crossmember and remove transmission from vehicle.

(11)

Lower vehicle and attach a crane or other suitable lifting tool to fixture eyebolt.

(12)

Remove engine front mounts. Raise engine with lifting tool and work engine out of chassis.

(13) Place engine in repair stand C-3167 and adapter C-3662 for disassembly using transmission mounting bolts.

lnstallat ion

(1)

Attaching engine lifting fixture Tool C-3466 to carburetor flange studs on intake manifold.

(2) Attach a crane or other suitable lifting tool to fixture eyebolt.

(3)

Remove engine from repair stand and lower engine carefully until engine is positioned in chassis with front engine mounts in place.

(4) Install engine support fixture Tool C3487 chassis to support rear of engine. Remove crane. on

(5)

Raise vehicle on a hoist, install transmission, engine rear support crossmember, tighten front engine mounts, remove engine support fixture, Tool C-

3487.

(6) Connect propeller shaft, wires, linkage, speedometer cable, oil cooler lines at the transmission, connect exhaust pipes to manifolds. Install transmission filler tube.

(7) Lower vehicle and remove engine lifting fixture

Tool C-3466 from engine. Install carburteor and fuel lines.

(8) Install radiator, fan shroud, hoses, oil cooler lines and connect all wires and linkage,

(9) Install hood using scribe marks for proper alignment

(10) Close all drain cocks and fill cooling system, install battery.

(1 1)

Fill engine crankcase and transmission. Refer to “Lubrication” Group 0, for quantities and lubricants to use. Inspect entire system for leaks and correct as necessary.

Whenever an engine has been rebuilt and/or new camshaft and/or new tappets have been installed, add one quart of MoPar Engine Supplement Part

Number

1879406 or equivalent to engine oil to aid break-in. The oil mixture should be left in engine for a minimum of 500 miles, and drained at the next normal oil change.

(12) Start engine and run engine until normal

ADJUSTING SCR

EXHAUST VALVE

ROCKER ARMS

INTAKE ROCKER ARMS

NK1037

Fig. 6-Rocker

Shaft Assembly (3

Cubic

Inch)

MyMopar.com

ROCKER

SHAFT

Fig. 7-Installing Rocker Arms (3 Cubic Inch)

operating temperature is reached.

(13) Adjust the tappets, hot; intake .013 inch, exhaust .021 inch.

(14) Test timing (with vacuum advance line removed) and adjust carburetor and transmission linkage as necessary. Connect vacuum line, install air cleaner and road test vehicle.

ROCKER ARMS AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY

Removal

For cleaning, inspection or installation of new parts, remove the cylinder heads from the engine on

318 Cubic Inch Engines. Refer to Cylinder Head

As-

sembly.

Remove the lock plug, slide the rocker shaft out of the rocker shaft struts disengaging the rocker arms and springs (Fig. 6).

lnst

allat ion

Slide the rocker shaft into bore of strut and at the same time engage intake rocker arm (Fig.

7).

Install

EXHAUST ROCKER

INTAKE ROCKER ARM

ROCKER

SHAFT LOCK PLUG,

* J

ADJUSTING SCREW

318 CUBIC I N C H E N G I N E

9-7

spring and engage exhaust rocker arm. Install re- mainder of the rocker arms in same sequence. Make sure that head bolt holes in rocker shaft line up with head bolt holes in rocker shaft strut. In addition, the plug hole in strut must also line up with hole in rocker shaft. Tap in rocker arm shaft plug (Fig. 8).

Install plugs in both ends of rocker arm shaft.

CYLINDER HEADS

The chrome alloy cast iron cylinder heads are held in place by 10 bolts. The spark plugs are located in peak of the wedge between the valves.

Removal

(1)

Drain cooling system and disconnect battery ground cable.

(2)

Remove alternator, carburetor air cleaner and fuel line.

(3)

Disconnect accelerator linkage.

(4) Remove vacuum control hose between carburetor and distributor.

(5)

Remove distributor cap and wires.

(6) Disconnect coil wires, heat indicator sending unit wire, heater hoses and by-pass hose.

(7)

Remove closed vent system and cylinder head covers.

(8) Remove intake manifold, ignition coil and carburetor as an assembly.

(9)

Remove exhaust manifolds.

The

318

Cubic Inch

Engine push rods are removed with cylinder head and rocker arm assemblies.

(11) Remove the 10 head bolts from each cylinder head and remove cylinder heads.

(12) Place cylinder heads in holding fixture Tool

C-3626. Remove push rods and place them in their respective slots in holder Tool C-3068 and remove spark plugs.

lnstallation

(1) Clean all gasket surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder heads.

6 3 x 7 1 1

INTAKE PASSAGES

EXHAUST CROSSOVER PASSAGE

INTAKE PASSAGES

Fig. 8-Cylinder Head Assembly

Fig. 9-Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence

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9-8 318 C U B I C I N C H E N G I N E

I rlR

STANDS

NK9

Fig. 1

-Compressing V a l v e Spring (Typical)

Fig. IO-Compressing Exhaust Valve Spring

(2)

Inspect all surfaces with a straightedge if there is any reason to suspect leakage.

(3)

Coat new gaskets with number

1057794

Sealer or equivalent and install on cylinder block.

(4)

Remove cylinder heads from holding fixtures

Tool

C-3626

and place heads on engine.

(5)

Install cylinder head bolts. Starting at top center, tighten‘all cylinder head bolts to

foot-pounds in sequence, (Fig.

9).

Repeat the procedure, retighten all cylinder head bolts to

foot-pounds.

(7)

Inspect push rods and replace worn or bent rods.

( 8 )

Install push rods with small ends in tappets, using Tool

C-3695

to position large end of push rod under rocker arm (Fig.

lo), make certain low point of camshaft lobe i s under tappet.

(9)

Coat intake manifold gaskets and side seals with number

1057794

sealer or equivalent. Install intake manifold gaskets with bead down and end seals locked in tangs of head gasket. Add a drop of sealer in notches of the side seals after installation.

“V”

(10)

Install intake manifold, tighten manifold bolts to

foot-pounds.

(11)

Install exhaust manifolds with new gaskets, the extended shield is used on the left side, tighten to

foot-pounds.

(12)

Adjust spark plugs to

.035

inch gap and install plugs tightening to

foot-pounds.

(13)

Install coil wires, heat indicator sending unit wire, heater hoses and bypass hose.

(14)

Install vacuum control hose between carburetor and distributor.

(15)

Install accelerator linkage and adjust as necessary.

(16)

Install distributor cap and wires.

(17)

Install fuel line, alternator and drive belt.

Tighten alternator bracket bolts to

foot-pounds and adjusting strap mounting bolt to

foot-pounds.

See

Cooling Section on adjusting belt tension.

(18)

Fill cooling system and install battery ground cable.

(19)

Operate engine until normal operating temperature is reached (approximately

180°F.

water temperature).

(20)

Allow engine to idle at

550

rpm at this temperature for five minutes.

(21)

Adjust the tappets, hot; intake

.013

inch, exhaust

.021

inch.

(22)

Place new cylinder head cover gaskets in position and install cylinder head covers. Tighten to

inch-pounds.

(23)

Install the closed crankcase ventilation system.

VALVES A N D VALVE SPRINGS

Valves are staggered in the cylinder heads and in guides that are integral with the heads.

Removal

(1) With cylinder head removed, compress valve springs using Tool

C-3422A,

(Fig.

11).

(2)

Remove valve retaining locks, valve spring retainers, valve stem cup seals and valve springs.

Re- move any burrs from valve stem lock grooves to prevent damage to the valve guide when valves are removed.

Valve

inspection

(1)

Clean valves thoroughly, and discard burned, warped and cracked valves.

(2)

Measure valve stems for wear. New intake valve stem diameter should measure

.372

.373

inch and exhaust valve stem diameter should measure

.371

.372

inch. If wear exceeds

.002

inch, replace the valve.

MyMopar.com

318 CUBIC I N C H E N G I N E 9-9

Fig. 12-Installing Valve and Tool

(3)

Remove carbon and varnish deposits from the inside of valve guides and cleaner, Tool

C-756.

(4)

Measure valve stem guide clearance as follows:

(a) Install sleeve Tool

C-3973

over valve stem, (Fig.

12)

and install valve. The special sleeve places the valve at the correct height for checking with a dial indicator.

(b) Attach the dial indicator Tool

C-3339

to cylinder head and set it at right angle of valve stem being measured, Fig.

13.

.017

inch. If dial indicator reading is excessive or if the stems are scuffed or scored, ream the guides for valves with oversize stems.

(d) Service valve with oversize stems are available in

.005, .015

and

.030

inch oversizes. Reamers to ac- commodate the oversize valve stems are as follows:

Reamer Tool

C-3433 (.379

.380

inch) Reamer Tool

C-3430 (.389

.390

inch) Reamer Tool

C-3427 (.404

.405

inch).

(e) Slowly turn reamer by hand and clean guide

_ _ _ ~

A-SEAT WIDTH (INTAKE 1/16 TO 3/32 INCH

EXHAUST: 3/64 TO 1/16 INCH)

B-FACE ANGLE (INTAKE: 45'-EXHAUST: 45')

C-SEAT ANGLE (INTAKE: 45O-EXHAUST: 45O)

Fig.

14-Valve Face and Seat Angles

645C

D-CONTACT SURFACE

m

I P

thoroughly before installing new valve.

Do not attempt to ream the valve guides from standard directly to

.030

inch. Use step procedure of .005, .015 and

.030

inch so the valve guides may be reamed true in relation to the valve seat.

REFACING VALVES AND VALVE SEATS

(1)

The intake and exhaust valve seats and valve faces have a

degree angle (Fig.

14).

(2)

Inspect the remaining margin after valves are refaced, (Fig.

15).

Valves with less than

3/64

inch margin should be discarded.

(3)

When refacing valve seats, it is important that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseating stones. A true and complete surface must be obtained.

(4)

Measure the concentricity of the valve seat using dial indicator

No.

13725.

The total runout should not exceed

.002

inch (total indicator reading).

(5)

Check valve seat with Prussian blue to determine where valve contacts the seat. To to this, coat valve seat lightly with Prussian blue then set valve in place. Rotate valve with light pressure. If the blue is

INTA

VALVE

EXHAUST

VALVE

NK11

Fig. 13-Measuring Valve Guide Wear (Typical)

IF--------

VALVE SPRING RETAINER

LOCK GROOVES

Fig. 15-Intake and Exhaust Valves

K H330C

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9-10

318 CUBIC INCH ENGINE

RETAINER----

SPRING

INTAKE VALVE \

KR145A

Fig. 16-Checking V a l v e Spring Squareness

transferred to center of valve face, the contact is satisfactory. If the blue is transferred to top edge of valve face, lower valve seat with a 30" stone. If the blue is transferred to bottom edge of valve face raise valve seat with a 60" stone.

(6) When the seat is properly positioned the width of the intake seats should be 1/16 to 3/32 inch. The width of the exhaust seats should be 3/64 to 1/16 inch.

TESTING VALVE SPRINGS

(1) Whenever valves have been removed for inspection, reconditioning or replacement, valve springs should be tested. As an example the compression length of the spring to be tested is

1-5/16 inches.

Turn the table of Tool C-647.until surface is in line with the 1-5/16 inch mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark to the front. Place spring over stud on table and lifj compressing lever to set the tone device.

Pull on torque wrench until ping is heard. Take the reading on torque wrench at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This will give the spring load at the test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. The valve springs should test 137 to 150 pounds when compressed to 1-5/16 inches and 49 to 57 pounds when compressed to 1-11/16 inches. Discard springs that do

Fig. 17-Measuring V a l v e Stem Length (Typical)

N K 1 3

Fig. 18-Installing Valves, Cup Seals, Spring and

Retainer

not meet these specifications.

(2) Inspect each valve spring for squareness with a steel square and surface plate, test springs from both ends (Fig. 16).

If the spring is more than 1/16 inch out of square, install a new spring.

lnstallation

(I)

Coat valve stems with lubricating oil and insert them in cylinder head.

(2) If valves or seats are regrounded, check the valve stem height with Tool C-3927 (Fig. 17). If valve is too long, grind off the tip until the length is within limits.

(3) Install new cup seals on all valve stems and over valve guides, (Fig. 18.) Install valve springs and retainers. Install springs so that closed coils are against cylinder head.

(4) Compress valve springs with Tool C-3422A, install locks and release tool. If valves and/or seats are reground, measure the installed height of springs.

Make sure measurement is taken from bottom of spring seat in cylinder head to bottom surface of spring retainer (if spacers are installed, measure from top of spacer). If height is greater than 1-11/16 inches, install a 1/16 inch spacer in head counterbore to bring spring height back to normal 1-% inches to

1-11/16 inches.

CHECKING VALVE TIMING

(1) Rotate crankshaft until #6 exhaust valve is closing and #6 intake valve is opening. Install dial indicator so indicator pointer contacts the valve spring retainer on #1 intake valve parallel to the axis of the valve stem. (Second valve on the left bank.)

(2) Turn #1 intake adjusting screw in one complete turn to remove lash. Adjust dial indicator to zero. Rotate crankshaft clockwise (normal running direction) until valve has lifted .041 inches.

CAUTION: Do not turn crankshaft any further clock-

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CHAIN CASE COVER

d -

318 CUBIC INCH ENGINE 9-11

VIBRATION DAMP

Fig. 19-Removing Vibration Damper Assembly

(Typical)

Fig. 2

-Camshaft Holding Tool wise as the valve spring might bottom and result in serious damage.

The timing of the crankshaft pulley should now read from 10 degrees before top dead center to

degrees after top dead center. Readjust lash.

(3)

If reading is not within the specified limits:

(a) Check sprocket index marks.

(b) Inspect timing chain for wear.

TIMING SPROCKET AND CHAIN

Removal

(1)

Drain cooling system and remove radiator, fan belt and water pump assembly.

(2)

Remove pulley from vibration damper and bolt and washer securing vibration damper on crankshaft.

(3)

Install Tool C-3688 and pull the vibration d a m p er from end of the crankshaft (Fig.

19).

(4)

Remove fuel lines and fuel pump.

(5) Loosen oil pan bolts and remove front bolt at each side.

(6)

Remove chain case cover and gasket using extreme caution to avoid damaging the oil pan gasket.

It is normal to find particles of neoprene collect between the crankshaft seal retainer and the crankshaft oil slinger.

(7)

shaft.

Slide crankshaft oil slinger from end of crank-

Testing Timing Chain for Stretch

(a) Place a scale next to timing chain movement of the chain may be measured. so that any

(b)

Place a torque wrench and socket over the camshaft sprocket attaching bolt and apply torque in the direction of crankshaft rotation to take up the slack;

foot-pounds (with cylinder head installed) or foot-pounds (cylinder heads removed).

foot-pounds (with cylinder heads installed) or 15 foot-pounds (cylinder heads removed) and note the amount of chain movement (Fig.

20).

(d) Install a new timing chain, if its movement exceeds 3/16 inch.

With torque applied to camshaft sprocket bolt, the crankshaft should not be permitted to move. It may be necessary to block the crankshaft to prevent rotation.

Fig. 20-Measuring riming Chain Stretch (Typical)

Fig. 22-Alignment of Timing Marks (Typical)

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9-12 318 CUBIC INCH ENGINE

VIBRATION DAMPER NK23

___I

Fig. 23-Installing Vibration Damper Assembly

(Typical)

(8) Remove camshaft sprocket attaching bolt cup washer and fuel pump eccentric.

(9) Remove timing chain with crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.

lnstallation

When installing the timing chain, use Tool C-3509 to prevent the camshaft from contacting the welch plug in the rear of the engine block. Remove distributor and oil pump-distributor drive gear. Locate tool against rear side of cam gear and attach the tool with distributor retainer plate bolt (Fig. 21).

(1)

Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact imaginary center line through both camshaft and crankshaft bores.

(2) Place timing chain around both sprockets.

(3)

Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with keyway location in crankshaft sprocket and in camshaft sprocket.

(4) Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight against the chain in position as described).

(5)

Slide both sprockets evenly over their respective shafts and use a straight edge to check alignment

the

timing

marks,

(Fig. 22).

(6) Install fuel pump eccentric, cup washer, and camshaft bolt. Tighten bolt to 35 foot-pounds.

(7)

Check camshaft for .002 to .006 inch end play with a new thrust plate and up to .010 inch end play with a used thrust plate. If not within these limits install a new thrust plate.

(8)

Slide crankshaft oil slinger over shaft and up against sprocket (flange away from sprocket).

(9) Be sure mating surfaces of chain case cover and cylinder block are clean and free from burrs.

(10)

Using a new gasket carefully install chain case cover to avoid damaging oil pan gasket. Tighten the chain case cover capscrews to 30 foot-pounds first then tighten the oil pan capscrews to

foot-pounds.

(11) Position damper hub slot on key in crankshaft, and slide hub on crankshaft.

(12) Place installing tool, part of remover set Tool

C-3688 in position and press damper hub on the crankshaft (Fig. 23).

(13) Slide pulley over shaft and attach with bolts and lockwashers. Tighten to

155

foot-pounds.

(14) Install damper hub retainer washer and bolt.

Tighten to 135 foot-pounds.

(15) Install fuel pump and fuel lines.

(16) Install water pump and housing assembly using new gaskets. Tighten bolts to 30 foot-pounds.

(17) Install radiator, fan and belt, hoses and close drains.

(18)

Fill cooling system.

(19) With timing indicator on tor drive gear with slot pointing to the first manifold bolt on the left side of engine, Fig. 24. intake

TIMING CHAIN COVER OIL SEAL

REPLACEMENT

Removal

(1)

Position remover screw of Tool C-3506 through case cover with the inside of case cover up. Position remover blocks directly opposite each other, and force the angular lip between neoprene and flange of seal retainer.

(2) Place the tool washer and nut on remover screw. Tighten nut as tight as possible by hand, forcing the blocks into the gap to a point of distorting the seal retainer lip, (Fig. 25). This is important

remover is only positioned at this point.

(3) Place tool sleeve over retainer and place removing and installing plate into sleeve.

(4) Place the flat washer and nut on remover screw. Hold tool center screw and tighten the tool lock nut to remove seal (Fig. 26).

lnstallation

(1) Insert remover screw through removing and installing tool plate so the thin shoulder will be facing

UP.

(2)

Insert remover screw with plate through seal opening (inside of chain case cover facing up).

DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE n

Fig. 24-Position

Distributor Drive Shaft (Typical)

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LIPOF

SEAL RETAINER

HAlN CASE COVER

318 CUBIC INCH ENGINE

9-13

FEELER

GAUGE SEAL

Fig. 25-Remover Blocks Expanded

Puller Position

REMOVER SCREW (TOOL)

CHAIN CASE CO

REMOVING AND

INSTALLING PLATE

(TOOL)

/

Fig. 26-Removing Oil Seal

SEAL ASSEMBLY

VER SCREW (TOOL)

CHAIN CASE COVER

NKZOA

Fig. 27-Positioning Installer Plate on a N e w Seal

Fig. 29-Checking Seal for Proper Seating

(3)

Place seal in the cover opening, with neoprene down. Place seal installing plate into new seal, with protective recess toward lip of seal retainer, Fig.

27.

(4)

Install flat washer and nut on remover screw, hold screw and tighten the nut, Fig.

28.

(5)

Seal is properly installed when neoprene is tight against face of cover. Try to insert a

.0015

feeler gauge between neoprene and cover (Fig.

29).

If seal is installed properly, the feeler gauge cannot be inserted.

CAMSHAFT REMOVAL

(Engine Removed from Vehicle)

The camshaft has an integral oil pump and distributor drive gear and a bolt on fuel pump eccentric

(Fig.

30).

With the engine in repair stand

C-3167

and adapter

C-3662

and intake manifold, cylinder head covers and timing chain removed.

(1)

Remove rocker arm and shaft assemblies.

(2)

Remove push rods and tappets and place them in their respective places in tool

C-3068

since each part should be replaced in its original location.

(3)

Remove distributor and lift out oil pump and distributor drive shaft.

(4)

Remove camshaft thrust plate and carefully withdraw camshaft being careful not to damage cam bearings with cam lobes.

OIL PUMP AND DISTRIBUTOR

DRIVE GEAR INTEGRAL WITH

CAMSHAFT

INSTALLING PLATE (TOOL)

REMOVER SCREW

(TOOL)

CHAIN CASE

Fig. 28-Installing A N e w Seal

AMSHAFT SPROCKET

Fig. 30-Camshaft and Sprocket Assembly

(Exploded V i e w )

NK25

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9-14 318

CUBIC INCH ENGINE

..*

'MAIN BEARING OIL HOLE

Fig. 3 )-Removing Camshaft Bearings

NK26

N STA L LATlO N

(1)

Lubricate camshaft lobes and camshaft bearing journals and insert camshaft to within

inches of its final position in cylinder block.

(2)

Install Tool

C-3509

with tongue back of distributor drive gear (Fig. 21).

(3)

Hold tool in position with distributor lock plate screw. This tool will restrict the camshaft from being pushed in too far and prevent knocking out the welch plug in rear of cylinder block. The tool should remain installed until camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and timing chain have been installed.

Whenever an engine has been rebuilt and a new camshaft and/or new tappets have been installed, one quart o f factory recommended o i l additive should be added t o the engine oil t o aid in breaking. The o i l mixture should be left in the engine for a minimum of 500 miles. Drain the o i l mixture at the next normal oil change.

Whenever the camshaft is replaced, all o f the tappet faces must be inspected f o r crown with a straightedge. If any negative (crown dish) is observed, the tappet must be replaced.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF CAMSHAFT

BEARINGS (Ensine Removed from Vehicle)

Removal

(1)

With the engine completely disassembled, drive out cam r e i r bearing welch plug.

(2)

Install the proper size adapters and horse shoe washers (part of Tool

C-3132A)

at back of each bearing shell to be removed and drive out the bearing shells (Fig.

31).

installation

(1)

Install new camshaft bearings with Tool

C-

3132A

by sliding the new camshaft bearing shell over the proper adapter.

(2)

Position rear bearing in the tool. Install the horse shoe lock and by reversing the removal procedure, carefully drive bearing shell into place.

(3)

Install the remaining bearings in the same manner

Fig.

32-Removing Distributor Drive

Shaft

Bushings

I - -

Fig.

33-Installing

Distributor Drive

Shaft

Bushing

BUSHING

Fig.

34-Burnishing Distributor Drive

S h a f t

Bushing

Bearings must be carefully aligned to bring oil holes into full register with oil passages from main bearings. Also, the Number two bearing must index with oil passage to left cylinder head and Number four bearing must index with oil passage to right cylinder head. If camshaft bearing shell oil holes are not in exact alignment, remove and reinstall them correctly. Use Tool

C-897

to install a new core hole plug at the rear of camshaft.

Be sure this plug does not leak.

DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT BUSHINGS

Removal

(1)

Insert Tool

C-3052

into old bushing and thread down until a tight fit is obtained (Fig.

32).

MyMopar.com

(2)

Hold puller screw and tighten puller nut until bushing is removed.

Installat ion

(1)

Slide new bushing over burnishing end of Tool

C-3053

and insert tool bushing into bore (Fig.

33).

(2)

Drive bushing and tool into position, using a soft hammer.

(3)

As burnisher is pulled through bushing by tightening puller nut, the bushing is expanded tight in block and burnished to correct size (Fig.

34).

NOT REAM THIS BUSHING.

Distributor Timing

Before installing distributor and oil pump drive shaft, time engine as follows:

(1)

Rotate crankshaft until No.

cylinder is at top dead center on firing stroke.

(2)

When in this position, the straight line on the vibration damper should be under

(“0”)

indicator.

(3)

Coat shaft and drive gear with engine oil. Install shaft so that after the gear spirals into place, it will index with the oil pump shaft, so slot in top of drive gear will point to the first intake manifold bolt on left side of engine (Fig.24).

Installation

Distributor

(1)

Hold distributor over the mounting pad on cylinder block with vacuum chamber pointing toward right of engine.

(2)

Turn rotor until it points forward and to the approximate location of the No.

tower terminal in distributor cap.

(3)

Place distributor gasket in position.

(4)

Lower distributor and engage shaft in slot of distributor drive shaft gear.

(5)

Turn distributor clockwise until breaker contacts are just separating and install hold down clamp.

CYLINDER BLOCK

Cleaning and Inspection

(1)

Clean the cylinder block thoroughly and check all core hole plugs for evidence of leaking.

(2)

If new core hole plugs are installed coat the edges of plug and core hole with a suitable sealer and drive plugs in place with driver, Tool

C-897.

(3)

Examine the block for cracks or fractures.

(4)

Remove the top ridge of cylinder bores with a reliable ridge reamer before removing pistons from cylinder block. Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered during this operation. Pistons and connecting rods must be removed from top of cylinder block. When removing piston and connecting rod assemblies from engine, rotate crankshaft

that each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.

(5)

Remove connecting rod cap.

(6)

Install Tool

C-3221

on one connecting rod bolt and protector over the other bolt and push each pis-

318 CUBIC I N C H E N G I N E 9-15

ton and rod assembly out of the cylinder bore.

(7)

After removal, install bearing cap rod. on mating

Cylinder Bore Inspection

The cylinder walls should be checked for out-of- round and taper with Tool

C-119.

If cylinder bores show more than

.005”

out-of-round, or a taper of more than .010”, or ,if cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored, the cylinder block should be rebored and honed, and new pistons and rings fitted. Whatever type of boring equipment is used, boring and honing operation should be closely coordinated with fitting of pistons and rings in order that specified clearances may be maintained.

Honing Cylinder Bores

Before honing, stuff plenty of clean rags under the bores, over the crankshaft to keep the abrasive materials from entering crankcase area.

(1) Used carefully, the cylinder bore resizing hone

C-823

equipped with

220

grit stones, is the best tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce taper and out-of-round as well as removing light scuffing, scoring or scratches. Usually a few strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.

(2)

Deglazing of cylinder walls may be done using a cylinder surfacing hone, Tool

C-3501,

equipped with

280

grit stones

(C-3501-3810)

if the cylinder bore is straight and round.

20-60

strokes depending on the bore condition will be sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Inspect cylinder walls after each

strokes. Using honing oil

C-3501-3880

or a light honing oil available from major oil distributors. Do not use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits or kerosene

C R 0

H ATC H P ATT E R N

‘4

Fig. 35-Cross Hatch

Pattern

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9-16 318 CUBIC INCH ENGINE

v-8

PISTON c

,027 TO

,035

THE ELLIPTICAL SHAPE

THE PISTON SKIRT SHOULD

BE .010 TO .013 IN. LESS

AT DIAMETER (A) THAN

ACROSS THE THRUST

FACES AT DIAMETER

(B).

DIAMETERS AT (C) AND

(D)

CAN

EQUAL OR HAVE

+0.0005

IN. TAPER IN

PISTON

SKIRT

64x644

Fig. 36-Piston Measurements

(3)

Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a cross-hatch pattern.

When hone marks intersect at 60”, the cross hatch angle is most satisfactory for proper seating of rings

(Fig. 35). it is necessary that the block be cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasives.

CAUTION:

Be sure all abrasives are removed from engine parts after honing. I t is recommended that a solution of soap and water be used with a brush and the parts then thoroughly dried. The bore can be considered clean when it can be wiped clean with a white cloth and cloth remains clean. cleaning to prevent rusting.

Oil the bores after

PISTONS, PINS AND RINGS

The pistons are cam ground so that the diameter at pin boss is less than its diameter across thrust face.

This allows for expansion under normal operating conditions. Under operating temperatures, expansion forces the pin bosses away from each other, thus, causing the piston to assume a more nearly round shape. It is important that pistons be checked for taper and elliptical shape before they are fitted into the cylinder bore (Fig. 36).

Finished Pistons

All pistons are machined to the same weight in grams, regardless of oversize to maintain piston balance. For cylinder bores which have been honed or rebored, pistons are available in standard and the following oversizes: .005,

.020, .040

inch.

Piston Fitting

Piston fitting should be done at normal room temperature, 70°F. Use a spring scale and a strip of

1/2

inch wide feeler stock

.0015

feeler stock should be long enough to extend into the cylinder bore to the full length of piston travel.

Cyl- inder bore and piston must be clean.

Fig. 37-Fitting Piston in Cylinder Bore

(1)

Coat cylinder bore lightly with

SAE

1OW engine oil. Insert piston in the bore upside down with the feeler stock between the thrust face of piston and cylinder wall.

(2)

Hold piston and draw the feeler stock straight out, with the spring scale Tool C-690. to 10 pounds (Fig. 37).

Piston Pins

(1)

With new piston and new pins at room temperature, 70”F., the pin should be a light thumb push fit in the piston and connecting rod. Replacement is necessary if there is excessive clearance between the pin and the piston. Ream piston and connecting rod to next oversize. New pistons are supplied with properly fitted pins.

(2) Assemble pistons and rods for the left hand cylinder bank (1-3-5-7) with piston boss marked “Front” and indent on piston head on the same side as

the

large chamfer on large end of connecting rod. Assem-

PISTON RING

RING GROOVE

FEELER GAUGE

NK31

Fig. 38-Measuring Piston Ring Clearance (Typical)

MyMopar.com

318 CUBIC INCH ENGINE

9-17

ble pistons and rods to be used in the right cylinder bank

(2-4-6-8)

with “Front” and indent opposite the larger chamfer in the connecting rod.

Fitting Rings

(1)

Measure piston ring gap about two

(2)

inches from bottom of cylinder bore in which it is to be fitted.

(An inverted piston can be used to push rings down to insure positioning rings squarely in cylinder wall before measuring.)

(2)

Insert the feeler stock in gap. The ring gap should be between

.010

and

.020

inch for compression rings and

.015

.062

inch for oil ring steel rails in standard size bores (for new service rings). Maximum gap is

.005

inch O/S bores should be

.060

inch for compression rings and

.070

inch for oil ring steel rails.

(3)

Measure side clearance between piston ring and ring land (Fig.

38).

The clearance should be

.0015

.003

inch for top compression ring and intermediate ring. Steel rail service oil ring should be free in groove, but should not exceed

.005

inch side clearance.

(4)

Install oil ring in lower ring groove using instructions in the service ring package.

(5)

Install compression rings in middle and top grooves use ring installer Tool

C-3586.

Be sure the mark “Top” on each compression ring is to top of piston when the ring is installed.

CON N ECTl N G ROD-I D ENTl Fl CAT10 N

A Maltese Cross stamped on engine numbering pad indicates that the engine is equipped with a crankshaft which has one or more connecting rod or main bearing journals finished

.001

inch undersize.

Mal- tese Cross with an X following engine serial number indicates that all main journals and/or all rod journals are

.010

inch undersize. The position of the undersize journal or journals will be stamped on machined surface of the No.

counterweight (Fig.

39).

Connecting rod journals will be identified by the letter

“M.”

For example

“M-1”

indicates that

No. 1

main bearing is

.001

inch undersize.

INSTALLATION OF CONNECTING ROD

BEAR

N GS

Fit all rods on one bank until completed. Do not alternate from one bank to another, because when the rods are assembled to pistons correctly, they are not interchangeable from one bank to another.

The bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be marked at removal to insure correct assembly.

Each bearing cap has a small “V” groove across the parting face. When installing the lower bearing shell, make certain that the “V” groove in the shell is in line with the

“V” groove in the cap. This provides lubrication of the cylinder wall in the opposite bank.

The bearing shells must be installed so that the tangs are in the machined grooves in the rods and caps.

Limits of taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft journals should be held to

.001

inch. Bearings are available in standard and

.001, .002, .003, .010

and

.012

inch under-size.

Install the bearings in pairs. Do not use a new bearing half with an old bearing half. Do not file the rods or bearing caps.

CHECKING CONNECTING ROD BEARING

CLEARANCE

Shim Stock Method

(1)

Place an oiled

.001

inch brass shim stock

( V 2

inch wide and

inch long (between bearing and connecting rod journal).

(2)

Install bearing cap and tighten to

foot- pounds.

(3)

Turn connecting rod ‘/4 turn in each direction.

slight drag should be felt which indicates’clearance is satisfactory. Correct clearance is from

.0005

.0015

inch

(4)

Side play should be from

.006

.014

inch (two rods).

INSTALLING PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

ASSEMBLY IN CYLINDER BLOCK

(1)

Before installing pistons, and connecting rod assemblies into the bore, be sure that compression

LETTERS

K K

162

Fig. 39-Showing Location of Internal Marking of No. 3 Counterweight

Fig. 40-Removing or Installing Connecting Rod

MyMopar.com

9-18 318

CUBIC INCH ENGINE

ring gaps are staggered so that neither is in line with the oil ring rail gap.

(2) The oil ring expander ends must butt and be positioned toward outboard side of engine and

(A) Oil ring rail gaps should be positioned opposite each other and in line with the piston pin. oil, slide the ring compressor, Tool

C-385,

and tighten with special wrench (part of Tool

C-385).

ing this operation. Screw connecting rod bolt protector (part of Tool

C-3221)

rod and piston into cylinder bore.

Rotate the crankshaft

SO that connecting rod journal i s on center of cylinder bore.

(5)

on the other bolt, and guide the rod over the crankshaft journal

(Fig.

40).

(6) Tap piston down in cylinder bore, using a hammer handle. At the same time, guide connecting rod into position on crankshaft journal.

(7)

The notch or groove on the top of piston must be pointing toward front of engine and the larger chamfer of the connecting rod bore must be installed toward crankshaft journal fillet.

CRANKSHAFT MAIN JOURNALS

The crankshaft journals should be checked for excessive wear, taper and scoring. Limits of taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft journals should be held to

.012

inch under the standard journal diameter. Do

NOT grind thrust faces of Number

main bearing.

Do

NOT nick the crank pin or main bearing fillets.

After regrinding, remove rough edges from crankshaft oil holes and clean out all oil passages.

CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS

Bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be marked at removal to insure correct assembly. Upper and lower bearing halves are

NOT

interchangeable.

Fig. 42-Removing or Installing Upper Main Bearing

Lower main bearing halves of

1, 2

and

are interchangeable. The upper main bearing halves of

and

4 are interchangeable.

Upper and lower Number

bearing halves are flanged to carry the crankshaft thrust loads and are

NOT interchangeable with any other bearing halves in the engine (Fig.

41).

standard and the following undersizes:

.003,

and

.012

inch. Never install an undersize bearing shell that will reduce the clearance below specifications.

Removal

(1)

Remove oil pan and mark bearing caps before removal. upper half of bearing by inserting Tool

C-3059

THRUST BEARING

Fig. 4

-Main Bearing Identification

upper half of bearing shell.

Measuring Main Bearing Clearance

Shim Stock Method

(1)

Smooth edges of

shim stock,

.001

inch piece of brass

(2)

Lubricate main bearing journals and position shim stock across center main journal. bearing tang in groove in cap, lubricate bearing and seat cap in block. Tighten bolts to

foot-pounds.

(4)

If a slight drag is felt as the crankshaft is turned (move no more than

$4 turn in either direction), clearance is

.001

ered satisfactory.

If, however, no drag is felt, the bearing is too large or the crankshaft cannot be rotated, the bearing is too small and should be replaced with correct size.

(5)

inch. If end play is less than

.002

or more than

.007

install a new Number

MyMopar.com

318 CUBIC INCH ENGINE 9-19

Fig. 43-Installing Rear Main Upper Oil Seal

(6)

Fit the remaining bearings in same manner.

Selectively fitting one main bearing at a time while all other main bearing caps are properly torqued.

It is permissible to use one

.001

inch undersize bearing shell with one standard bearing shell, or one

.002 inch undersize bearing shell with one

.001

inch undersize shell.

Always use the smaller diameter bearing half as the upper.

Never use a new bearing with a used bearing and never use an upper bearing half more than

.001

inch smaller than the lower bearing half.

lnstallation

of the Upper Main Bearing

When installing a new upper bearing shell, slightly chamfer the sharp edges from the plain side.

(1)

Start bearing in place, and insert Tool

C-3059

into the oil hole of crankshaft (Fig.

38).

(2) Slowly rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise sliding the bearing into position.

(3)

After all bearings have been fitted, tighten all

Fig. 44--Trimming Rear Main Upper Oil Seal

caps to

foot-pounds. The crankshaft end play should be

.002

.007

INSTALLATION OF REAR MAIN BEARING OIL

SEALS (Crankshaft Removed)

Upper Seal

(1)

Install a new rear bearing oil seal in the cylinder block

that both ends protrude.

(2)

Using Tool

C-3511

tap seal down into position until tool is seated in bearing bore (Fig.

43).

(3)

Hold tool in this position and cut off portion of seal that extends above block on both sides (Fig.

44).

Lower Seal

(1)

Install a new seal in bearing cap so that ends protrude.

(2)

Using Tool

C-3511

tap seal down into position until tool is seated in bearing bore.

(3)

Hold tool in this position and cut off portion of seal that extends above cap on both sides.

OIL PAN

ENGINE OILING SYSTEM

Removal

(1)

Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the battery, and remove dipstick.

(2)

Raise vehicle on a hoist, drain the oil. Remove the engine to torque converter left housing brace.

(3)

Remove steering and idle arm ball joints from steering linkage center link.

(4)

Remove exhaust cross-over pipe from exhaust manifolds and leave it hang without disconnecting it from muffler.

(5)

Remove oil pan bolts and oil pan.

(3)

Connect exhaust cross-over pipe to manifolds.

(4)

Connect steering and idler arm ball joints to steering center link.

(5)

Lower vehicle, install dipstick, fill with proper grade and quantity of motor oil, connect battery ground.

OIL

PUMP

(Refer

Figure 46)

It is necessary to remove the oil pan, and remove the oil pump from the rear main bearing cap to service the oil pump.

lnstallation

(1)

Inspect alignment of oil strainer. Bottom of strainer must be parallel with machined surface

cylinder block. The bottom of strainer must touch bottom of oil pan.

(2)

Install oil pan using a new gasket and seals.

Install engine to converter housing brace.

Disassembly

(1)

Remove oil pump cover bolts and lockwashers, and lift off cover.

(2)

Discard oil seal ring.

(3)

Remove pump rotor and shaft, and lift out outer rotor.

(4)

Remove oil pressure relief valve plug and lift out spring and plunger.

MyMopar.com

318 CUBIC INCH ENGINE

9-21

OIL P U M P

ASSEMBLY

" -

.$-RETAINER

INNLR

P O T O R

Fig. 46-Oil Pump

DRIVE

5HAFT

63x931

!TER

63x933

Fig. 49-Measuring Outer Rotor Thickness

PFTAINER

OUTFR ROTOR

69x330

Fig. 47-Oil Pump (Disassembled V i e w )

FEELER

GAUGE

Fig. 48-Checking Oil Pump Cover Flatness

(5)

Wash all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect carefully for damage or wear (Fig. 47).

lnspection

(1)

The mating face of oil pump cover should be smooth. If cover is excessively scratched or grooved, it should be replaced.

(2) Check for excessive cover to rotor wear by lay- ing a straightedge across the cover surface. If a .0015 inch feeler gauge can be inserted between cover and straightedge, discard the cover and install a new one

(Fig. 48).

Fig. 50-Measuring Inner Rotor Thickness

(3)

Measure diameter and thickness of outer rotor.

If outer rotor measures less than .998 inch (Fig. 49) and diameter less than 2.244 inches, install a new outer rotor.

(4) Measure thickness of inner rotor. If inner rotor measures less than .998 inch, a new inner rotor should be installed (Fig. 50).

(5)

Slide outer rotor and inner rotor into pump body and then place a straightedge across the face between bolt holes (Fig.

51).

If a feeler gauge of more than .004 inch can be inserted between rotors and straightedge, install new rotors.

(6)

Remove inner rotor and shaft, leaving outer rotor in pump cavity. Press outer rotor to one side with fingers and measure clearance between outer rotor and pump body (Fig. 52). If measurement is more than .012 inch, install new oil pump body. (This check is not necessary if a new oil pump body is being used.)

(7) Check the clearance between inner rotor and outer rotors (Fig.

53).

If measurement is more than

.006

inch, install new rotor and outer rotor.

Assembly

(1)

When assembling the oil pump, be sure to use a new oil seal ring between the cover and the body.

MyMopar.com

9-22 38-26

CUBIC INCH ENGINES

FEELER GAUGE

ROTOR

INNER

ROTOR

Fig. 5

I --Measuring Clearance Over Rotors

FEELER GAUGE

OUTER ROTOR

63x935

Fig. 52-Measuring Outer Rotor Clearance

(2)

oil pump. bearing cap. Tighten bolts to

foot-pounds.

Servicing

the

Oil Pressure Relief Valve

(1)

To

inspect the oil pressure relief valve, it

will

Fig. 53-Measuring Clearance Between

Rotors

necessary to remove the oil pan. it is under spring pressure.

(4)

Clean parts thoroughly. scoring and for free operation in its bore. Small scores may be removed with

400

grit wet or dry paper providing extreme care is used not to round off the sharp edge portion of the valve. to

2-3/64

ings, pressure.

worn

bear- or look for other causes of possible loss of oil

Using oil of recommended viscosity and engine thoroughly warmed up the oil pressure should be

to 70 psi at

1500

rpm in a new or reconditioned engine.

383-426

CUBIC INCH ENGINES

INDEX

Camshaft

Distributor

.....................................

Camshaft Bearings

Cylinder Block

Cylinder Heads

Drive

Engine Mounts

Hydraulic Tappets

............................

Closed Crankcase Ventilation System for State of California

........................

Connecting Rods

Crankshaft Main Bearings

Crankshaft Main Journals

......................

Crankcase Ventilation System

Installing Engine Assembly

Page

...................

................................

...............................

Shaft Bushing

................................

Engine Oiling System

................

..........................

.............................

....................

Installation of Connecting Rod Bearings

44

........

Page

Installing Piston and Connecting Rod

Assembly

Measuring Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance..

Measuring Main Bearing Clearance

Oil Pan

.......................................

Oil Pump

Rocker

Tune-up in and Shaft Assembly

............

........................

Removal of Engine Assembly

..................

Repair of Damaged or Worn Threads

...........

Replacement of Rear Main Bearing Oil Seal

Arms

......................................

Valve Timing

Cylinder Block

.....................................

Oil Filter Replacement

Pistons, Pins and Rings

Timing Sprockets and Chain

Valves and Valve Springs

..................

..............

Timing Chain Cover Oil Seal Replacement

......................

..................................

.....

......

..................

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3 8 1 2 6 CUBIC INCH ENGINES 9-23

SERVICE PROCEDURES

TUNE-UP

(1)

Test battery specific gravity, add water if necessary, clean and tighten battery connections.

(2)

Test cranking voltage if below

9.6

volts and more than

130

amperes draw. See Starting Motor

Cranking Voltage Electrical Section of this manual.

(3)

Tighten the intake manifold bolts to

foot- pounds.

(4)

Perform cylinder compression test. Compres- sion should not vary more than

pounds for

383

cubic inch engine with

9.2

compression ratio,

pounds for

383

and

426

cubic inch engines with

and

10.3

1 compression ratios.

(5)

Clean or replace spark plugs as necessary and adjust gap to

.035

inch. Tighten to

foot-pounds using new gaskets.

(6)

Test resistance of spark plug cables. Refer to

“Ignition System Secondary Circuit Inspection” Elec- trical Section.

(7)

Inspect the breaker plate contacts, primary wire and vacuum advance operation. Replace parts as necessary. Refer to Ignition System and make necessary adjustment. Test coil output, voltage and primary and secondary resistance. Test Condenser.

(8)

Install the distributor, distributor cap, and spark plug cables. Reset the ignition timing with the vacuum advance line disconnected. The ignition timing should be set to compensate for altitudes and/or gasoline grades.

(9)

Set carburetor idle mixture adjustment. Adjust the throttle stop screw to specifications. Perform a combustion analysis.

(10)

Test the fuel pump for pressure and vacuum.

Refer to “Fuel System” Group

14,

Specifications.

(11)

Inspect the manifold heat control valve in the right exhaust manifold for proper operation and apply

Manifold Heat Control Valve Solvent Number

1879318

or equivalent to the bushing and shafts.

(12)

Every

months, remove filter element and blow out dirt gently with air hose. Direct air from inside out, and keep nozzle

inches away from element to avoid damaging (Fig.

1).

Clean the metal housing and replace the element. Every two years install a new factory recommended MoPar filter element. Service the unit more frequently when driving under severe conditions, such as in dusty area.

(13)

Inspect crankcase ventilation system as outlined on page

43.

FRONT ENGINE MOUNTS

Removal

(1)

Disconnect throttle linkage at transmission and carburetor.

(2)

Raise hood and position fan to clear radiator hose and radiator top tank.

(3)

Remove torque nuts from frame bracket studs.

(4)

Raise engine just enough to remove front engine mount assembly.

lnstallation

(1)

Install mounts on engine and tighten nuts to specified torque. (Fig.

2).

(2)

Lower engine .and install washers and prevailing torque nuts to insulator studs; tighten nuts to specified torque.

(3)

Connect throttle to transmission and carburetor linkage.

REAR ENGINE MOUNT (Fig.3)

Removal

(1)

Raise vehicle on hoist.

(2)

Install transmission jack.

(3)

Remove rear engine crossmember from frame.

(4)

Remove rear engine mount from crossmember.

Fig.

-Cleaning Filter Element Fig. 2-Front Engine Mounts

(

I 2 I” Wheelbase)

MyMopar.com

9-24

3 8 1 2 6

CUBIC INCH ENGINES

ONLY 4-SPEED

NN527

Fig. 3-Engine Rear Support

(121”

Wheelbase)

lnsta

Ila

(1)

Install rear engine mount to transmission and tighten bolts to specified torque.

(2) Install rear crossmember to frame and tighten bolts to specified torque.

(3)

Remove transmission jack.

(4)

Install rear engine mount to crossmember bolts and tighten to specified torque.

(5) Lower vehicle.

REMOVAL OF ENGINE ASSEMBLY

(From

(1)

Scribe the outline of hinge brackets on hood to assure proper adjustments when installing.

(2)

Remove hood.

(3)

Drain cooling system and remove battery.

(4)

Remove all hoses, fan shroud, disconnect oil cooler lines and remove radiator.

(5) Disconnect fuel lines and wires attached to engine units. Remove air cleaner and carburetor.

(6)

Attach engine lifting fixture Tool

C-3466

to carburetor flange studs on intake manifold.

(7)

Raise vehicle on a hoist and install engine support fixture Tool

C-3487

on frame to support rear engine. of

(8)

Drain transmission and torque converter.

(9) Disconnect exhaust pipes at manifolds, propeller shaft, wires, linkage, cable, and oil cooler lines at the transmission.

(10)

Remove engine rear support crossmember and remove transmission from vehicle.

(11)

Lower vehicle and attach vehicle chain hoist to fixture eyebolt.

(12)

Remove engine front mounting bolts. Raise engine with a chain hoist and work engine out of chassis.

(13)

Place engine in repair stand Tool

C-3167

and adapter

C-3662

for disassembly, using transmission mounting bolts.

INSTALLING ENGINE ASSEMBLY (In Vehicle)

(1)

Attach engine lifting fixture Tool

C-3466,

to carburetor flange studs on intake manifold.

(2)

Attach chain hoist to fixture eyebolt.

(3)

Remove engine from repair stand and lower engine carefully until engine is positioned in vehicle.

(4)

Install engine support fixture Tool

C-3487

on the frame and adjust to support rear of engine.

( 5 )

Remove chain hoist from fixture eyebolt.

(6)

Raise vehicle on hoist, install and tighten engine front suspension mounting bolts.

(7)

Install transmission and engine rear support crossmember.

(8)

Lower engine into position and install engine rear support crossmember bolts. Remove engine support fixture Tool

C-3487

from frame.

(9)

Connect propeller shaft, wires, linkage, cable, oil cooler lines at the transmission, connect exhaust pipes to manifolds using new gaskets. Install transmission filler tube.

(10)

Lower vehicle and install radiator, fan shroud, hoses, oil cooler lines and connect all wires and linkage.

(11)

Remove engine lifting fixture Tool

C-3466

from intake manifold and install carburetor and fuel lines. Connect throttle linkage.

(12)

Install hood, using scribe marks for proper alignment.

(13)

Close all drain cocks and fill cooling system.

(14)

Fill engine crankcase and transmission. Refer to “Lubrication” Group 0 for quantities and lubricants to use and check entire system for leaks and correct as necessary.

Whenever an engine i s rebuilt and a new camshaft and/or new tappets are installed, add one quart of factory recommended oil additive to engine oil to aid brakein (Engine Oil Additive

NO.

1879406 or equivalent). The oil mixture should be left in the engine for a minimum of

500

miles, and drained at the next normal oil change.

(15) Start engine and run engine until normal erating temperature is reached.

op-

(16)

Check ignition timing and adjust carburetor as necessary.

(17)

Adjust accelerator and transmission linkages.

Road test vehicle.

ROCKER ARMS AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY

The rocker arms are of stamped steel and are arranged on one rocker arm shaft, per cylinder head.

The push rod angularity tends to force the pairs of rocker arms toward each other where oilite spacers carry the side thrust at each rocker arm.

The rocker shaft is held in place by bolts and stamped steel retainers attached to the five brackets on the cylinder head.

Removal

(1)

Remove cylinder head cover and gasket.

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3 8 1 2 6

CUBIC INCH ENGINES

9-25

Fig. 6-Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence

Fig. 4-Rocker Arm Assemblies Installed

Use extreme care in tightening the bolts so that tappets have time to bleed down to their operating

(2)

Remove rocker shaft bolts and retainers and remove rocker arms and shaft assembly.

(3) If rocker arm assemblies have been disassembled for cleaning, inspection, or replacement, refer to

(Fig.

for proper assembly.

length. Bulged tappet bodies, bent push rods and permanently noisy operation may result if the tappets are forced down too rapidly.

(3)

Tighten the rocker shaft bolts to 30 foot-pounds.

Instal fation

(1)

Install rocker arms and shaft assembly making sure to install the long stamped steel retainers in the number two and four positions.

(2) Install rocker shafts so that 3/16 inch diameter rocker arm lubrication holes point downward into the rocker arm, so that the 15" angle of these holes points outward towards the valve end of the rocker arms

(Fig.

5).

This is necessary to provide proper lubrication to the rocker assemblies.

The

1 5 O angle of the rocker arm lubrication holes i s determined from the center line of the bolt holes through the shaft which are used to attach the shaft assembly to the cylinder head.

\ / v

[

ROCKlR SIAFT BOLT-,

CYLINDER HEADS

The chrome alloy cast iron cylinder heads are held in place by 17 bolts. The spark plugs enter the cylinder head horizontally and are located at the wide edge of the combustion chambers.

Removal

(1)

Drain cooling system.

(2)

Remove alternator, carburetor and air cleaner and fuel line.

(3) Disconnect accelerator linkage.

(4)

Remove vacuum control tube at carburetor and distributor.

( 5 )

Disconnect the distributor cap, coil wires and the heater hose.

(6) Disconnect heat indicator sending unit wire.

(7) Remove spark plugs.

(8)

Remove intake manifold, ignition coil and carbu-

ROCKER SHAFTS

7 l b

retor as an assembly.

Remove tappet chamber cover.

/ I

,=&PUSH RODS

(10) Remove cylinder head covers and gaskets.

(11) Remove exhaust manifolds.

(12) Remove rocker arms and shaft assembly.

(13) Remove push rods and place them in their respective slots in holder Tool C-3068.

(14) Remove the 17 head bolts from each cylinder head and remove cylinder heads.

(15) Place cylinder head in holding fixture Tool

C-3626.

VROCKER ARM

LUBRICATION HOLES

lnsfuflution

(1)

Clean gasket surfaces of the cylinder block and cylinder head. Remove all burrs from edges of dyl- inder heads.

(2)

Inspect all surfaces with a straightedge if there is any reason to suspect leakage.

(3) Coat new gaskets with a suitable sealer MoPar

MyMopar.com

9-26 383-426 CUBIC INCH ENGINES

CYLINDER HEAD INTAKE PUSH RODS INSTALLING ROD

Fig. 7-Push

Rods

Installed

Number

1057794

or equivalent. Install gaskets and cylinder heads.

(TOOL)

K R l l l A

Fig. 8-Compressing Valve Spring

center, tighten all cylinder head bolts to

foot- pounds in sequence (Fig.

6).

Repeat the procedure, tightening all head bolts to rods. maintaining alignment, using rod (Fig.

7).

each push rod into its respective rocker arm socket

(Fig.

retainers in the number two and four positions.

Use extreme care in tightening bolts to

30 foot- pounds so the tappets have time to bleed down to their operating length. Bulged tappet bodies, bent push rods, and permanently noisy operation may result if the tappets are forced down too rapidly.

(8) Place new cylinder head gasket in position and install cylinder head covers. Tighten nuts to

inch- pounds.

(9)

Install exhaust manifolds and tighten nuts to

foot-pounds.

(10)

inch gap and install plugs, tighten plugs to

30 a

new tappet chamber cover and tighten end bolts to

foot-pounds. lined in “Cooling System” Group

VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS

Valves are arranged in-line in the cylinder heads and inclined

degrees outward from vertical. The intake and exhaust valves operate in guides that are cast integral with the heads.

Removal

(1)

With the cylinder head removed, compress valve springs, using Tool

C-3422A

tainers, valve stem cup seals and valve springs. to prevent damage to the valve guide when valves removed. are tion coil as an assembly and tighten manifold bolts to heat indicator sending unit wire, accelerator linkage, spark plug cables and insulators.

(14)

Install vacuum tube at carburetor and distributor. alternator bracket bolts to

foot-pounds, and alternator mounting nut to 20 foot-pounds.

Fig. 9-Installing Valve and Tool

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3 8 1 2 6

CUBIC INCH ENGINES

9-27

-4

INTAKE

VALVE

VALVE SPRING RETAINER

LOCK

GROOVES

Fig. IO-Measuring Guide Wear

Valve lnspection

(1)

Clean valves thoroughly, and discard any burned, warped or cracked valves.

(2)

Measure valve stems for wear. The intake valve stem diameter should measure

.372

.373

inch and the exhaust valve stem diameter should measure

.371

.372

inch. If wear exceeds .002 inch, replace the valve.

(3)

Remove carbon and varnish deposits from inside of valve guides with cleaner, Tool

C-756.

(4)

Measure valve stem guide clearance as follows:

Install sleeve Tool

C-3973

over valve stem (Fig.

9),

and install valve.

(5)

The special sleeve places the valve at the correct height for checking with a dial indicator. Attach dial indicator Tool

(2-3339

to the cylinder head and set it at right angle of the valve stem being measured

(Fig.

10).

(6)

Move valve to and from the indicator. Total dial indicator reading should not exceed

.017

inch. If the dial indicator reading is excessive or if the stems are scored or worn excessively, ream the guides for new valves with oversize stems.

(7)

Service valves with oversize stems are available in

.005, .015,

and

.030

inch oversizes. Reamers to a%- commodate the oversize valve stem are as follows:

Reamer Tool

C-3433 (.379

.380

inch), Reamer Tool

C-3430 (.389

.390

inch), Reamer Tool

C-3427 (.404

.405

inch).

(8)

Slowly turn reamer by hand and clean the guide thoroughly before installing new valves.

CAUTION:

Do not attempt to ream the valve guides from standard directly to cedure of

.005,

.015 and

.030

inch. Use step pro-

.030

inch so the original valve guide centers may be maintained.

H330C

Fig. I I-Intake and Exhaust Valves

that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseating stones. A true and complete valve seat surface must be obtained.

(2)

Measure the concentricity of the valve seat using dial indicator

No. 13725.

The total runout should not exceed

.002

inch (total indicator reading).

(3)

Check valve seat with Prussian blue to determine where valve contacts seat. To do this, coat valve seat lightly with Prussian blue then set valve in place.

Rotate valve with light pressure. If the blue is transferred to the center of the valve face, the contact is satisfactory. If the blue is transferred to the top edge of the valve face, lower the valve seat with a

30”

stone.

If the blue is transferred to the bottom edge

the valve face raise the valve seat with a

60”

stone.

(4)

When the seat is properly positioned the width of the intake seats should be

1/16

1/32

inch. The width of the exhaust seats should be

3/64

1/16

inch.

(5)

When valves and seats are reground, the position of the valve in the cylinder head is changed, shortening the operating length

the hydraulic tappet. This means that the plunger is operating closer to its

“bottomed” position, and less clearance is avail-

Refacing Valves and Valve Seats

The intake and exhaust valve faces have a

degree angle. Always inspect the remaining valve margin after the valves are refaced (Fig.

11).

Valves with less than

3/64

inch margin should be discarded.

(1)

The angle of both the valve and seat should be identical. When refacing valve seats, it is important

MAXIMUM MEASUREMENT

KR144B

Fig. 12-Measuring Valve Stem Length

MyMopar.com

9-28 3 8 1 2 6

CUBIC INCH ENGINES

+ able for thermal expansion of the valve mechanism during high speed driving. safety factor to allow for a limited amount of wear, and the refacing of the valves and seats.

(7)

To insure that limits have not been exceeded, the dimension from valve spring seat in the head to the valve tip should be measured with gauge, Tool

C-3648 12).

RETAINER-

of slotted area represent the maximum and minimum allowable extension of the valve stem tip beyond the spring seat.

(9) If the tip exceeds the maximum, grind stem tip to within gauge limits.

Testing the Valve Springs

reconditioning or replacement, the valve springs should be tested.

an example, the compressed length of the spring to be tested is

1-15/32

Turn the table of Tool

C-647

line with the

1-15/32

and the zero mark to the front. Place the spring over stud on the table and lift the compressing lever to set the tone device. Pull on the torque wrench until a ping is heard. Take the reading on the torque wrench at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This will give the spring load at the test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. The valve springs should test

187

203

pounds when compressed to

1-15/32

specifications to obtain allowable height and tension.

Discard the springs that do not meet specifications. ends with a steel square and surface plate (Fig.

13).

is more than

1/16

inch out of square install a new spring.

lnstallation

(1) Coat valve stems with lubricating oil and insert them in position in cylinder head.

(2)

Install new cup seals on the intake and exhaust

Fig. 14-Valve Assembly (Disassembled View)

valve stems and over valve guides, as shown in (Figs.

and

15)

and install valve springs and retainers.

(3)

In- stall locks and release tool.

If valves and/or seats are reground, measure installed height of springs. Make sure measurement i s taken from the bottom of springseat in cylinder head to bottom surface of spring retainer. If the height is greater than 1-57/64 inches, install a 1/16 inch spacer in the head counterbore to bring the spring height back to normal

1-53/64 to 1-57/64 inch.

(If spacers are installed, measure from the top of the space).

HYDRAULIC TAPPETS

Preliminary to

Checking the

Hydraulic Tappets

(1)

Before disassembling any part of the engine to correct tappet noise, read the gauge and check the oil level oil pressure at the in the oil pan. The pressure should be between

45 65

pounds at 1000 rpm.

KR145A

Fig. 13-Inspecting Valve Spring Squareness

Fig. 15-Installing Valve, Spring and Cup S e d

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3 8 3 4 2 6 CUBIC INCH ENGINES 9-29

(2) The oil level in the pan should never be above the “full” mark on dipstick, or below the “add oil” mark. Either of these two conditions could be respon- sible for noisy tappets.

Oil Level Too High

(3)

If oil level is above the “full” mark on dipstick, it is possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil while engine is running and create foam. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.

Oil Level Too Low

(4)

Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air which, when fed to tappets, causes them to lose length and allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of pump through which air can be drawn will create the same tappet action. When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected, engine should be operated at fast idle for sufficient time to allow all of the air inside of the tappets to be bled out.

Tappet Noise Diagnosis

(1)

To determine source of tappet noise, operate engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.

(2)

Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in operation.

Worn valve guides or cocked springs are sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is the case, noise may be dampened by applying side thrust on the valve spring. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets and push rod ends for wear. If noise is not appreciably reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the tappet.

(3)

Valve tappet noise ranges from a light noise to a

CYLINDER HEAD

ASSEMBLY heavy click.

light noise is usually caused by excessive leakdown around the unit plunger which will necessitate replacing the tappet or by the plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder.

heavy click is caused either by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles becoming wedged between the plunger and the tappet body, causing the plunger to stick in the down position. This heavy click will be accomplished by excessive clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes.

In either case, tappet assembly should be removed for inspection and cleaning.

Tappet Removal

(1)

The tappet can be removed without removing intake manifold or cylinder heads by following this recommended procedure: Remove cylinder head covers.

(2)

Remove rocker arms and shaft assembly.

(3)

Remove push rods and place them in their spective holes in Tool

C-3068.

re-

(4) Slide puller Tool

(2-3661

through push rod opening in cylinder head and seat tool firmly in the head of tappet.

(5) Pull tappet out of bore with a twisting motion

(Fig.

16).

If all tappets are to be removed, remove hydraulic tappets and place them in their respective holes in tappet and push rod holder, Tool

C-3068.

This will insure installation of the tappets in their original locations.

A diamond shaped marking stamp on the engine numbering pad indicates that some tappet bodies are

.008 inch oversize (See Fig.

43).

CAUTION: The plunger and tappet bodies are not interchangeable. The plunger and valve must always be fitted to the original body. It is advisable to work on one tappet at a time to avoid mixing of parts.

Mixed parts are not compatible.

Do not disassemble a tappet on a dirty work bench.

HYDRAULIC TAPPET

TAPPET BODY

PLUNGER SPRING

TAPPET PLUNGER

Fig. 16-Removing Tappet

PLUNGER CAP

PLUNGER RETAINER SPRING C L I P - - v

N K559

Fig. 17-Hydraulic Tappet Assembly

(Disassembled View)

MyMopar.com

9-30

Disassembly (Fig.

17).

(1) Pry out plunger retainer spring clip.

(2) Clean varnish deposits from inside of tappet body above plunger cap.

(3) Invert tappet body and remove plunger cap, plunger, flat check valve, check valve spring, check valve retainer and plunger spring.

(4)

Separate plunger, check valve retainer and check valve spring. Place all parts in their respective place in tappet holder, Tool (2-3068.

Cleaning

and

Assembly

(1)

Clean all tappet parts in a solvent that will remove all varnish and carbon.

(2) Replace tappets that are unfit for further service with new assemblies.

(3) If plunger shows signs of scoring or wear and valve is pitted, or if valve seat on end of plunger indicates any condition that would prevent valve from seating, install a new tappet assembly.

(4)

Assemble tappets, as shown in Figure 17.

Testing

(1) Fill a pan with clean kerosene.

(2)

Remove cap from plunger and plunger from tappet body.

(3) Fill tappet body with kerosene and install plunger.

(4)

Unseat check valve with a brass rod to permit complete installation of plunger. Replace cap.

( 5 )

Hold tappet in an upright position and insert lower jaw of pliers, Tool C-3160, in the groove of tappet body (Fig. 18).

(6) Engage jaw of pliers with top of appet plunger.

Test leakdown by compressing the pliers. If plunger collapses almost instantly as pressure is applied, disassemble tappet, clean and test again.

(6) If tappet still does not operate satisfactorily after cleaning, install a new tappet assembly.

-

CASE COVER

TIMING INDICATOR

CYLINDER BLOCK

TIMING MARK

VIBRATION DAMPER

,TOOL

Fig. 19-Removing Vibration Damper

Assembly lnspection

If the tappet or bore in cylinder block is scored, scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to next oversize.

lnstallation

(1)

Lubricate tappets.

(2) Install tappets and push rods in their original positions.

(3) Install rocker arm and shaft assembly.

(4)

Start and operate engine. Warm up to normal operating temperature.

CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve mechanism, engine must not be run above fast idle until all hydraulic tappets have filled with oil and have become quiet.

VALVE TIMING

(1)

Turn crankshaft until the NO.

exhaust valve is closing and NO. 6 intake valve is opening.

(2) Insert a inch spacer between rocker arm pad and stem tip of NO.

1 left bank).

(3) Install a dial indicator so plunger contacts valve spring retainer as nearly perpendicular as possible.

(4)

Allow spring load to bleed tappet down giving

TORQUE WRENCH

Fig. 18-Teding Tappet

Fig. 20-Measuring Chain Stretch

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3 8 3 4 2 6

CUBIC INCH ENGINES

9-31

+ in effect a solid tappet. Zero the indicator.

(5)

Turn the crankshaft clockwise (normal running direction) until intake valve has lifted

.013

inch with

252"

camshaft and

.034

inch with

256-260"

camshaft.

See specifications for engine application. The timing on the timing indicator, located on the chain case cover, should read from

degrees BTDC to 2 degrees ATDC. If the reading is not within specified limits: Inspect timing sprocket index marks, inspect timing chain for wear, and check accuracy of the DC mark on timing indicator. Turn crankshaft counterclockwise until valve is closed and remove spacer.

CAUTION: Do not turn crankshaft any further clockwise, as the valve spring might bottom and result in serious damage.

TIMING SPROCKETS AND CHAIN

Removal

(1)

Drain cooling system and remove radiator and water pump assembly.

(2)

Remove the crankshaft vibration damper attaching bolt.

(3)

Remove two of the pulley bolts, install Tool

C-

3688,

and pull damper assembly off end of crankshaft

(Fig.

19).

(4)

Remove chain cover and gasket.

(5)

Slide crankshaft oil slinger off end of the crankshaft.

Testing Timing Chain for Stretch

(1)

Place a scale next to timing chain so any movement of the chain may be measured.

(2) Place a torque wrench and socket over the camshaft sprocket attaching bolt and apply torque in the direction

crankshaft rotation to take up slack;

foot-pounds (with cylinder heads installed) or

foot-pounds (cylinder head removed).

(3)

Holding a scale with dimensional reading even with edge of a chain link, apply torque in the reverse direction

foot-pounds (with cylinder heads installed) or

foot-pounds (cylinder heads removed), and note amount

chain movement (Fig.

20).

(4)

Install a new timing chain, if its movement exceeds

3/16

inch.

With a torque applied to the camshaft sprocket bolt, crankshaft should not be permitted to move. It may be necessary to shaft to prevent rotation. block crank-

(5)

If chain is satisfactory, slide crankshaft oil slinger over shaft and up against sprocket (flange away from sprocket).

(6)

If chain is not satisfactory, remove camshaft sprocket attaching bolt.

(7)

Remove timing chain with crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.

lnst allat ion

(1)

Place camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact imaginary center line through both camshaft and

LbA

Fig. 2

-Alignment of Timing Marks

crankshaft sprocket bores.

(2)

Place timing chain around both sprockets.

(3)

Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with the keyway location on crankshaft sprocket and dowel holes in the camshaft sprocket.

(4)

Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight against chain in position as described).

(5)

Slide both sprockets evenly over their respective shafts.

(6)

Use a straight edge to check alignment of timing marks (Fig.

21).

(7)

Install washer and camshaft sprocket bolt and tighten to

foot-pounds.

TIMING CHAIN

COVER

R E

LAC EM E

CHAIN CASE COVER

OIL

SEAL

IN358

Removal Cover-(Removed from Engine)

(1)

Position remover screw of Tool

C-3506

through case cover, the inside of case cover up. Position remover blocks directly opposite each other, and force

REMOVER

BLOCKS (TqOL)

$ 7

SEAL

Fig. 22-Remover Blocks Expanded to Puller Position

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9-32 3 8 1 2 6 CUBIC INCH ENGINES

REMOVER SCREW

REMOVING AND

INSTALLING PLATE

(TOOL)

Fig. 23-Removing Oil Seal

CHAIN CASE COVER

KR154B

Fig. 24-Positioning Installer Plate on a New Seal

ATE

'CHAIN CASE COVER

RETAINE

KR155B

Fig. 25-Installing New Seal

the angular lip between neoprene and flange of seal retainer.

(2)

Place washer and nut on remover screw.

Tighten nut as tight as possible

hand, forcing the blocks into gap to a point of distorting the seal retainer lip (Fig.

22).

This is important

remover is only positioned at this point. c

Fig. 26-Inspecting Seal for Proper Seating

(3) Place sleeve over retainer and place removing and installing plate into the sleeve.

(4) Place flat washer and nut on remover screw.

Hold center screw and tighten remover nut to remove the seal (Fig. 23).

Installation

of the Oil Seal

(1)

Insert remover screw through the removing and installing plate so thin shoulder will be facing up.

(2)

Insert remover screw with plate through seal opening (inside of the chain case cover facing up).

(3)

Place seal in cover opening, with neoprene down. Place seal installing plate into the new seal, with protective recess toward lip of seal retainer (Fig.

24).

Lip of the neoprene seal must be toward source of oil.

(4)

Install flat washer and nut on remover screw, hold screw and tighten nut (Fig. 25).

(5) The seal is properly installed when the neoprene is tight against face of cover. Try to insert a

.0015 inch feeler gauge between the neoprene and the cover (Fig. 26). If the seal is installed properly, feeler gauge cannot be inserted.

I t i s normal to find particles of neoprene collected between the seal retainer and crankshaft oil slinger after seal has been in operation.

fnstalling the Chain Case Cover

(1)

Be sure mating surfaces of chain case cover and cylinder block are clean and free from burrs.

CHAIN CASE COVER

TIMING INDICATOR

CYLINDER BLOCK

TIMING MARK

IBRATION DAMPER

Fig. 27-Installing Vibration Damper Assembly

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BOLT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET CAMSHAFT

3 8 1 2 6

CUBIC INCH ENGINES

9-33

STRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR

(CAMSHAFT)

FUEL PUMP ECCENTRIC (CAMSHAFT)

LOCATING DOWEL

KR158

Fig. 28-Camshaft and Sprocket Assembly

(Disassembled View)

locating dowels. Install and tighten bolts

foot- pounds.

lnstalling Vibration Damper

(1)

Place damper hub key in slot in the crankshaft, and slide vibration damper on crankshaft.

C-

3688

in position and press damper on the crankshaft

(Fig.

27).

(3)

Install damper retainer washer and bolt.

Tighten to

135

(4)

Slide belt pulley over shaft and attach with bolts and lockwashers.

(5)

Tighten bolts to

foot-pounds.

Fig. 29-Camshaft Holding Tool

plug in the rear of cylinder block.

The tool should remain installed until camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and timing chain have been installed. Whenever an engine i s rebuilt and a now camshaft and/or new tappets are installed, one quart of factory recommended oil additive MoPar Part

Number

1879406 or equivalent should be added to the engine oil to aid in break-in. The oil mixture should be left in the engine for a minimum of 500 miles.

Drain the oil mixture at the next normal oil change.

Whenever camshaft is replaced, all of tappet faces must be inspected for crown with a straight edge. If any contact surface is dished or worn, tappet must be replaced.

CAMSHAFT

The camshaft has an integral oil pump and distributor drive gear and fuel pump eccentric (Fig.

28).

Rearward camshaft thrust is taken by the rear face of the cast iron camshaft sprocket hub, bearing directly on the front of cylinder block, eliminating need for a thrust plate. The load of the helical oil pump and distributor drive gear and camshaft lobe taper both tend to provide a rearward thrust.

CAMSHAFT BEARINGS

Removal

(1)

With engine completely disassembled, drive camshaft rear bearing welch plug.

Removal

(1) With tappets and the timing chain and sprockets removed, remove distributor and lift out oil pump and distributor drive shaft. washers (part of Tool

C-3122A)

ing to be removed and drive out bearings.

lnsta

(1)

lla

tion

Install new camshaft bearings with Tool

C-

3132A.

Place new camshaft bearing over proper adapter. to drop away from cam eccentric.

(3) Remove camshaft, being careful not to damage the camshaft bearings with the cam lobes. shoe lock and by reversing removal procedure, care-

Camshaft lnstallation

(1)

Lubricate camshaft lobes and camshaft bearing journals and insert camshaft to within

inches of its final position in the cylinder block.

(2)

by grinding off index lug holding upper arm on the tool and rotate arm

180

degrees.

(3)

Install Tool in place of distributor drive gear and shaft (Fig.

29).

screw. This tool will restrict camshaft from being pushed in too f a r and prevent knocking out the welch

Fig. 36-Removing Camshaft Bearing

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9-34

3 8 1 2 6

CUBIC INCH ENGINES

BUSHING

Fig.

-Removing Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing

fully drive bearing into place (Fig. 30).

(3) Install remaining bearings in like manner.

In- stall the NO.

1 camshaft bearing

1/32 inward from the front face of cylinder block.

The oil holes in camshaft bearings and the cylinder block must be in exact register to insure proper lubrication (Fig. 30).

The camshaft bearing index can be checked after installation by inserting a pencil flashlight in the bearing. The camshaft bearing oil hole should be per- fectly aligned with the drilled oil passage from the main bearing. Other oil holes in the camshaft bearings should be visible by looking down on the left bank oil hole above and between

NO.

6 and

NO. 8 cylinders to NO.

camshaft bearing and on the right bank above and between NO.

and 7 cylinders to NO.

camshaft bearings. If camshaft bearing oil holes are not in exact register, remove and reinstall them correctly. Use Tool C-897 to install a new welch plug at rear of camshaft.

Be sure this plus does not leak.

DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE SHAFT BUSHINGS

Removal

(1) Insert Tool

C-3052

into the old bushings and thread down until a tight fit is obtained (Fig.

31).

KR160

32-Installing Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing

Fig. 33-Burnishing Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing

(2) Hold remover screw and tighten remover nut until bushing is removed.

lnstallation

(1) Slide a new bushing over burnishing end of

Tool (2-3053 and insert tool bushing into the bore (Fig.

32).

(2) Drive bushing and tool into position, using a soft hammer.

(3) As the burnisher is pulled through the bushing by tightening the remover nut, the bushing is expanded tight in block and burnished to correct size

(Fig. 33).

NOT

THIS BUSHING.

Distributor Timing

Before installing distributor and oil pump drive shaft, time engine as follows:

(1) Rotate crankshaft until NO. 1 cylinder is at top dead center of firing stroke.

(2) When in this position, the straight line on the vibration damper should be under indicator.

(3) Coat shaft and drive gear with engine oil. Install the shaft so that after gear spirals into place, it will index with the oil pump shaft,

slot in top of drive gear will be parallel with center line of crankshaft, as shown in (Fig.

34).

lnstallation of Distributor

(1) Hold distributor over mounting pad on cylinder block with vacuum chamber pointing toward center of engine.

(2) Turn rotor until it points forward and to approximate location of NO.

tower terminal in the distributor cap.

(3) Place distributor gasket in position.

(4)

Lower the distributor and engage the shaft in the slot of distributor drive shaft gear.

(5) Turn

distributor clockwise until breaker contacts are just separating, install and tighten hold down clamp.

MyMopar.com

3 8 1 2 6

9-35

fitting of pistons and rings in order that specified clearance may be maintained.

Honing Cylinder Bores

Before honing, stuff plenty of clean rags under the bores, over the crankshaft to keep the abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft area. from the cylinder walls, use resizing hone Tool

C-823

with

220

grit stones and

390

extensions with

383

and

426

cubic inch engines. Usually a few strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.

KR 163A

Fig. 34-Distributor Drive Gear Installed

CYLINDER BLOCK

The cylinder block is of the deep block design which eliminates the need for a torque converter housing adapter plate. Its sides extend three inches below the crankshaft center line.

Piston Removal

able ridge reamer before removing pistons from cylinder block.

Be sure to keep tops of pistons covered during this operation. Pistons and connecting rods must be removed from the top of the clyinder block.

When removing piston and connecting rod assemblies from the engine, rotate crankshaft so each connecting rod is centered in cylinder bore.

Caps are not interchangeable and not reversible.

(4)

on one connecting rod bolt and protector over the other bolt and push each piston and

rod

assembly out

cylinder bore. using a cylinder surfacing hone, Tool

(2-3501,

equipped with

280

grit stones

(C3501-3810)

the cylinder bores are straight and round.

strokes depending on the bore condition will be sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Inspect the cylinder walls after each 20 strokes. Use honing oil

C-3501-

3880

or a light honing oil available from major oil distributors. Do not use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits or kerosene. and down fast enough to get a cross-hatch pattern.

When hone marks intersect at

60°,

angle is most satisfactory for proper seating of rings

(See Fig

35).

(4)

After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned again to remove all traces of abrasives. Wash the cylinder block and crankshaft thoroughly.

CAUTION: Be sure all abrasives are removed from the engine parts after honing. It is recommended that a solution of soap and water be used with a brush and the parts then thoroughly dried. The bore can be con-

C R

S S

H ATC H PATTER N

ing cap on the rod.

Cleaning and Inspection

( 1 )

Clean cylinder block thoroughly and check all core hole plugs for evidence of leaking. edges of plug and core hole with a suitable sealer and drive plugs in place with driver, Tool

C-897.

Inspection of Cylinder Bores

The cylinder walls should be measured for out-of- round and taper with Tool

C-119.

If the cylinder bores show more than

.005”

than

.010”

or scored, the cylinder block should be rebored and honed, and new pistons and rings fitted. Whatever type of boring equipment is used, boring and honing operation should be closely coordinated with the

Fig. 35-cross Hatch Pattern

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9-36

3 8 1 2 6

CUBIC INCH ENGINES

FEELER

GAGE

RING

GROOV

THE ELLIPTICAL SHAPE OF

THE PISTON SKIRT SHOULD

.010

.012

IN. LESS AT

DIAMETER (A) THAN ACROSS

THE THRUST FACES AT DIAM-

ETER (B). MEASUREMENT

IS MADE

’18

IN. BELOW

LOWER RING GROOVE

DIAMETERS AT (C) AND (D)

CAN BE EQUAL OR DIAMETER

AT (D) CAN BE

.0015

IN.

GREATER THAN (C)

N Y 220A

Fig. 36-Piston Measurements sidered clean when it can be wiped clean with a white cloth and the cloth remains clean.

Oil bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.

PISTONS, PINS AND RINGS

The pistons are cam ground so that the diameter at the pin boss is less than its diameter across the thrust face. This allows for expansion under normal operating conditions. Under operating temperatures, expansion forces the pin bosses away from each other, thus causing the piston to assume a more nearly round shape. It is important that old or new pistons be checked for taper and elliptical shape before they are fitted into the cylinder bore (See Fig. 36).

Finished Pistons

All pistons are machined to the same weight in grams, regardless of oversize so piston balance can be maintained. For cylinder bores which have been honed or rebored, pistons are available in standard and the following oversizes: .005, .020, and .040 inch.

Fitting Pistons

Pistons and cylinder wall must be clean and dry.

Specified clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall is to

.0013

Piston diameter should be measured at the top of skirt 90 degrees to piston pin axis. Cylinder bores should be measured halfway down the cylinder bore and transverse to the engine crankshaft center line.

Pistons and cylinder bores should be measured at normal room temperature,

70 degrees

All service pistons include pins, and are available in standard and the following oversizes: .005, .020 and

.040 inch.

Fiff ing Service Rings

(1)

Measure piston ring gap about two

(2)

inches from bottom of cylinder bore in which it is to be fitted. (An inverted piston can be used to push rings down to insure positionings rings squarely in cylinder wall before measuring.)

.....-

- A

Fig. 37-Measuring Piston Ring Clearance

(2) Insert feeler stock in the gap. Ring gap should be between .013 to .050 inch for the compression rings and .015 to .062 inch for the oil ring steel rails in standard size bores. Maximum gap on .005 inch

O/S bores should be

.060

and .070 inch for the oil ring steel rails.

(3) Measure side clearance between piston ring and ring groove (Fig. 37). Clearance should be .0015 to

.003 inches for the top compression ring and intermediate ring. Steel rail service oil ring should be free in groove, but should not exceed .005 inch side clearance.

(4) Install the three piece oil ring in lower ring groove using instructions in ring package.

(5) Install tin plate ring in middle groove and chrome compression ring in top groove, marked “TOP” is up. so side

(6) For the two top rings use ring installer

C-3673 for 383 and 426 cubic inch engines.

Tool

Removal

of Piston Pin

(1)

Arrange Tool C-3684 parts for removal of piston pin (Fig. 38).

(2) Install pilot on main screw.

KR195

ONNECTING ROD

GUIDE-LARGE

(TOO

SCREW

(TOOL)

Fig. 38-1001 Arrangement for Removing Piston

Pin

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PRESS

r?r

MAIN

SCREW

(TOOL)

PllOT (TOOL)

3 8 3 4 2 6

CUBIC INCH ENGINES

9-37

PISTON PIN

MAIN SCREW

(TOOL)

/PISTON

Fig. 39-Removing Piston Pin

(3)

Install main screw through piston pin.

(4)

Install anvil over threaded end of main screw with small end of anvil against piston boss.

Be sure spring i s removed from anvil.

(5) Install nut loosely on main screw and place assembly on a press (Fig.

39).

(6)

Press piston pin out of connecting rod.

When pin falls free from connecting rod, stop press to prevent damage to bottom of anvil.

(7)

Remove tool from piston.

lnstallation of Piston Pin

(1)

Test piston pin fit in the piston. It should be a sliding fit in the piston at

degrees

F. Piston pins are supplied in standard sizes only.

(2) Lubricate piston pin holes in the piston and connecting rod.

(3)

Arrange Tool

C-3684

parts for installation of piston pin (Fig. 40).

(4) Install spring inside the pilot and install spring and pilot in the anvil. Install piston pin over main screw.

(5) Place piston, with “front” up, over the pilot pilot extends through piston pin hole. so

ANVIL (TOOL)

SPRING (TOOL)

PILOT (TOOL)

MAIN

SCREW

GUIDE-LARGE (TOOL)

KRl96

Fig. 40-1001 Arrangement for Installing Piston Pin

Fig. 41-Installing Piston Pin

(TOOL)

PISTO

-ANVIL

SOCKET

( T O O L )

MAIN S C R E W

(TOOL)

KR168 B

Fig. 42-Testing F i t of Piston Pin in Connecting Rod

(6)

Position connecting rod over the pilot which extends through piston hole.

Assemble rods to pistons of the right cylinder bank

(2,

4, 6, and 8) with indent on piston head opposite to the larger chamfer on the large bore end of connecting rod. Assemble rods to pistons of the left cylinder bank (1,

3, 5, and

7 )

with indent on piston head on the same side as the large chamfer on the large bore end of the connecting rod.

(7)

Install main screw and piston pin in piston (Fig.

40).

( 8 )

Install nut on puller screw to hold assembly together. Place assembly on a press (Fig. 41). on pilot properly positioning pin in connecting rod.

(10) Remove tool and arrange tool parts and piston assembly in same manner, as shown in (Fig.

38).

(11)

Place assembly in a vise (Fig. 42).

(12) Attach torque wrench to nut and check torque up to 15 foot-pounds. If the connecting rod moves downward on piston pin, reject this connecting rod and piston combination. Obtain a connecting rod with

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KR169

Fig. 43-Showing location of External Engine

Numbering Pad proper small end bore diameter and repeat the installation and checking procedure.

(13) 15

foot-pounds, piston pin and connecting rod interference is satisfactory, the tool may be removed.

CONNECTING RODS

IMPORTANT: A Maltese Cross stamped o n the engine numbering pad (Fig.

43)

indicates that engine is equipped with a crankshaft which has one o r more connecting rods and/or main bearing journal finished

.001

inch undersize. The position of the undersize journal o r journals is stamped on a machined surface o f the No.

counterweight (Fig.

44).

Connecting rod journals are identified by the letter and main bearing journals by the letter

“M.”

example

“M-1”

indicates that NO. 1 main bearing is

INSTALLATION

CON N ECTl NG

ROD BEARINGS

F i t all rods on one bank until completed. Do not alternate f r o m one bank to another, because when rods are assembled t o pistons correctly, they are not interchangeable f r o m one bank t o another.

Each bearing cap has a small

“V”

groove across parting face. When installing the lower bearing shell, make certain “V” groove in shell is in line with “V” groove in cap. This allows lubrication of the cylinder wall. The bearings should always be installed so that the small formed tang fits into machined grooves of rods. The end clearance should be from

.009

.017

inch (two rods.)

Limits of taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft journals should be held to a maximum of .001 inch.

Bearings are available in .001,

.002, .010

and

.012

inch undersize.

Install the bearings in pairs. Do not use a new bearing half with an old bearing half.

Do not file the rods o r bearing caps.

It is permissible t o use one

.001

inch undersize bearing shell with one standard bearing shell, o r one ,002 inch undersize bearing shell with one

.001

inch undersize shell. AI- ways use the small diameter bearing half as the upper.

Do not use a new bearing with a used bearing and never use an upper bearing half more than

.001

inch smaller than the lower bearing half.

MEASURING CONNECTING ROD BEARING

CLEARANCE (Shim Stock Method)

(1) Place an oiled

.001

inch brass shim stock

( M

inch wide and

inch long) between bearing and connecting rod journal.

(2) 45

foot- pounds.

34

turn in each direction.

A slight drag should be felt which indicates clearance is satisfactory. The desired clearance is from

.0005

A Maltese Cross followed by an X indicates that a l l connecting r o d and main bearing journals are

.010

inch undersize.

-y

L E T T

E

R s

(4)

.009

.017

inch two rods.

INSTALLING PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD

ASSEMBLY IN CYLINDER BLOCK

(1)

Before installing pistons, rods, and rod assemblies in the bore, be sure that the compression ring gaps are staggered so that neither are in line with oil ring rail gaps. toward the outside of the “V” of the engine. The oil ring gaps should be positioned opposite each other and above the piston pin holes. in clean engine oil, slide ring compressor, Tool

C-385,

and tighten with special wrench (part of Tool

(3-385).

K K

162

Fig. 44-Showing l o c a t i o n of

Mark of No. 2

Counterweight during this operation. Screw connecting rod bolt protector (part of Tool

C-3221)

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383-426

CUBIC

INCH ENGINES

9-39

Fig. 45-installing Connecting Rod

rod and piston into cylinder bore.

Rotate crankshaft so connecting rod journal is on center of cylinder bore.

(5)

Attach puller part of Tool

C-3221

bolt, and guide the rod over crankshaft journal (Fig.

45).

(6)

Tap piston down in cylinder bore, using handle of a hammer. At the same time, guide the connecting rod into position on crankpin journal. pointed toward front of engine and larger chamfer of connecting rod bore must be installed toward crankpin journal fillet.

(8)

Install rod caps, tighten nuts to

foot-pounds.

CRANKSHAFT MAIN JOURNALS

Crankshaft main bearing journals should be inspected for excessive wear, taper and scoring. Journal grinding should not exceed .012 inch under the standard journal diameter. DO NOT grind the thrust faces of the NO.

main bearing.

DO

NOT nick crankpin or main bearing fillets. After regrinding, remove rough edges from crankshaft oil holes and clean out all oil passages.

1 2

THRUST BEARING

UPPER t

Fig. 47-Removing or installing Upper Main Bearing

Crankshaft Main Bearings

New lower bearing halves of numbers

1,2

4 5

are interchangeable (Fig.

46).

New upper main bearing halves of numbers

2, 4 and

are interchangeable.

Upper and lower bearing halves are not interchangeable because upper bearings have an oil hole.

The NO.

1 upper bearing is not interchangeable and is chamfered on the tab side for timing chain oiling and can be identified by a red marking on edge of bearing.

Upper and lower NO.

bearings are flanged to carry the crankshaft thrust loads and are

not interchangeable

with any other bearings in the engine.

Bearings that are not badly worn or pitted must be reinstalled in the same position.

Bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be marked at removal to insure correct assembly. Bear- ings are available in standard and the following undersizes:

.001, .002, .003,

Do not install an undersize bearing that will reduce clearance below specifications.

MAIN BEARINGS

Removal

(1)

Remove oil pan and mark bearing caps before removal.

(2)

Remove bearing caps one at a time. Remove upper half of bearing by inserting Tool

C-3059

47)

into oil hole of crankshaft.

(3)

Slowly rotate crankshaft clockwise, forcing out upper half of bearing.

Fig. 46-Main Bearing ldentification

KR 172

Measuring Main Bearing Clearance

Shim Stock Method

(1)

Smooth edges of a

shim stock,

.001

inch piece of brass

(2) Install bearing in center main bearing cap, bearing tang in groove in cap, lubricate bearing and position shim stock across the bearing, install cap, tighten bolts to

85 foot-pounds.

MyMopar.com

9-40 E N G I N E OILING SYSTEM

BRIDGE

(PART OF

TOOL)

OIL St

SIDE

SEAL

/ { : g ‘ d - @ ‘ j

GROOVES KR237

Fig. 48-lndalling Rear Main Bearing Lower Oil Seal

(3) If a slight drag is felt as crankshaft is turned

(moved no more than

turn in either direction), clearance is

.001

or less and is considered satisfactory.

If however, no drag is felt, the bearing is too large or crankshaft cannot be rotated, bearing is too small and should be replaced with the correct size.

(4) Check crankshaft end play to. 002-.007 inch. If end play is less than .002” or more than .007”, install a new Number 3 main bearing.

(5) Fit remaining bearings in same manner.

Only one main bearing should be selectively fitted while all other main bearing caps are properly torqued.

It is permissible to use one

.001

inch undersize bearing shell with one standard bearing shell or one

.002 inch bearing shell with one

.001

inch undersize shell.

Always use the smaller diameter bearing half as the upper. Never use an upper bearing half more than

.001 inch smaller than the lower bearing half and never use a new bearing with a used bearing.

Installation

of Upper Main Bearing

When installing a new upper bearing, slightly chamfer the sharp edge from the plain side.

(1) Lubricate the bearing. Start bearing in place, and insert Tool C-3059 into the oil hole of crankshaft

(Fig. 47).

(2) Slowly rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise sliding the bearing into position.

(3) After all bearings have been fitted, tighten all caps to 85 foot-pounds. The crankshaft end clearance at the NO. 3 main bearing should be .002 to .007 inch.

Fig. 49--Trimming Rear Main Bearing Lower

Oil

Seal

REPLACEMENT OF REAR M A I N BEARING O I L

SEAL (Crankshaft Removed)

Upper Rear Main Seal Installation

(1)

Install a new rear main bearing oil seal in cylinder block so that both ends protrude.

(2) Using Tool C-3625 for 383 Cubic inch engines or Tool C-3743 for 426 cubic inch engines with bridge removed tap seal down into position until tool is seated in bearing bore.

(3) Hold the tool in this position and cut off portion of seal that extends above the block on both sides.

Lower Rear Main Seal Installation

(1) Install a new seal in seal retainer so ends protrude (Fig. 48).

(2) Install the bridge on tool and tap the seal down into position with Tool C-3625 for 383 Cubic Inch En- gines or

Tool C-3743 for 426 Cubic Inch Engines until tool is seated.

(3) Trim off the portion of the seal that protrudes above the cap (Fig. 49).

Side Seals Installation

Perform the following operations as rapidly as possible. These side seals are made from a material that expands quickly when oiled.

(1)

Apply mineral spirits or diesel fuel to side seals.

(2) Install seals immediately in seal retainer grooves.

(3) Install seal retainer and tighten screws to 30 foot-pounds.

Failure to preoil seals will result in oil leak.

E N G I N E O I L PAN

Removal

(1) Disconnect battery cable.

ENGINE OILING SYSTEM

(2) Raise car on hoist and disconnect steering linkage from idler arm and steering arm.

(3) Disconnect exhaust pipe branches from right and left manifolds.

MyMopar.com

ENGINE OILING SYSTEM 9-41

clearance, and lower the pan.

Turn

Fig. 50-Engine Oiling System

(4)

Remove clamp attaching exhaust pipe to extension and remove exhaust pipe.

(6) Remove converter dust shield.

(7)

Remove oil pan bolts. counterweight and connecting rods at front end of crankshaft are at their highest position to provide

P L U G

G A S K E T

Turn

flywheel until pan counter-

BOLTS

AND

W A S H E R S

K w 4

C O V E R O I L FILTER clockwise to clear oil screen and suction pipe as it lowered. is

installation

(1)

Check alignment of oil strainer. The bottom of the strainer must be on a horizontal plane with machined surface of cylinder block. The bottom of the strainer must touch the bottom of oil pan.

(2) Install oil pan.

(3) Install converter dust shield.

(4)

Connect exhaust pipe branches to manifolds and to the exhaust extension.

SPRING

RELIEF V A L V E

PLUNGER

TER R O T O R

I N N E R ROTOR

AND SHAFT

DRIVE SHAFT

KR173

fig.

5 1-011

Pump and Filter Assembly (Disassembled)

steering arm.

(6)

Connect battery cable.

(7)

Install drain plug and refill crankcase.

OIL

PUMP

Removal

Remove oil pump attaching bolts and remove pump and filter assembly from bottom side of engine.

Disassembly

(1) Remove filter base and oil seal ring.

(2)

Remove pump rotor and shaft and lift out outer pump rotor.

(3) Remove the oil pressure relief valve plug and lift out spring and relief valve plunger (Fig.

51).

MyMopar.com

9-42

ENGINE OILING SYSTEM

Fig. 52-Measuring Oil Pump Cover Flatness

FEELER G A U G E

- 7

Fig. 55-Measuring Clearance Over Rotors

O U T E R R O T O R

KB66A

Fig. 53-Measuring Outer Rotor Thickness

'sk

KB 67A

Fig. 54-Measuring Inner Rotor Thickness inspect ion

(1)

Clean all parts thoroughly. The mating face of filter base (oil pump covers) should

be

smooth. Re- place filter base if it is scratched or grooved.

(2) Lay a straightedge across oil pump filter base surface (Fig.

52).

If a

.0015 inch feeler gauge can be inserted between the base and straightedge, filter base should be replaced.

(3)

If outer rotor length measures inch (Fig.

53) and diameter replace outer rotor. less than less than

2.469

.943 inches,

KR176

Fig. 56-Measuring Outer Rotor Clearance

(4)

If inner rotor length measures less than

.942 inch (Fig.

54), a new inner rotor should be installed.

(5) Slide outer rotor and inner rotor into pump body and place a straightedge across the face (between the bolt holes) (Fig.

55).

(6) If a feeler gauge of more than .004 inch can be inserted between rotor and straightedge replace rotor.

(7)

Remove inner rotor and shaft leaving outer rotor in pump cavity.

(8)

Press outer rotor body to one side with the fingers and measure the clearance between outer rotor and pump body (Fig. 56).

(9) If measurement is more than .012 inch, replace oil pump body.

(10) If tip clearance between inner and outer rotor

(Fig.

57) is more than

.010

inch, replace inner and outer rotors.

Servicing Oil Pressure Relief

Valve

Inspect oil pump relief valve plunger for scoring

O U T E R R O T O R

Fig. 57-Measuring Clearance Between Rotors

MyMopar.com

ENGINE

OILING SYSTEM

9-43

installation

When assembling the oil pump, be sure to use new oil seal rings between filter base and pump body.

(1) Install a new pump before attaching oil pump to cylinder block.

(2)

Install oil pump on engine, using a new gasket on engine and tighten attaching bolts to

foot- pounds.

OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT

The “spin on” oil filter should be replaced every second oil change.

Fig. 58-Removing Oil Filter

NN359

Removal (Fig.

58)

Use care so as not to damage transmission oil cooler

and for free operation in its bore. Small scores may be removed with

400

grit wet or dry paper providing extreme care is used not to round off the sharp edge portion of the valve.

lines.

(1) Using Tool

(2-3845

unscrew the filter from the base on bottom side of engine and discard.

(2)

Wipe base clean.

For

383,

and

426

cubic inch engines the relief spring valve has a free length of

2-9/32

2-19/64

inch and is red in color.

/nstallat;on

(1)

Install the “spin on” oil filter by hand, finger tight.

Do not use the tool.

If the oil pressure is low, inspect for worn bearings,

(2)

To obtain an effective seal, tighten filter

or look for other causes of possible loss of oil

hand

the additional number of turns

indicated on the

pressure.

replacement filter.

Start engine and inspect for leaks.

CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM

GENERAL

INFORMATION

All models are equipped with a positive crankcase ventilation system consisting of a crankcase ventilator valve and cap mounted on the cylinder head cover,

special carburetor with a hose fitting in its base, and a hose connecting the ventilator valve to the carburetor base fitting. The oil filler cap provides the air inlet for the system. The air drawn into the oil filler cap is circulated through the engine, and drawn out of the cylinder head cover by manifold vacuum into the combusion chambers and dispelled with the exhaust gases (Fig. 1).

SERVICE PROCEDURES

The system must be kept clean to maintain good assumulate in the valve, hoses, and the carburetor engine performance durability as deposits will parts, therefore, the ventilation system should be in-

Y -

CONNECTING HOSE

BREATHER CAP

u + i -

INTAKE MANIFOLD

CONTROL VALVE

WASHER IS COLOR CODED

TO IDENTIFY VENT

VALVE ASSEMBLY

V-8 ENGINES

SIX-CYLINDER ENGINES NB265E

Fig. I-Crankcase Ventilation System

MyMopar.com

9-44 ENGINE OILING SYSTEM

+ spected at least every six months and the valve replaced once a year preferably to coincide with the annual engine performance evaluation. This service will be required more frequently if the vehicle is used extensively for short trips-driving less than 10 miles-with frequent idling, such as city traffic.

When the engine running at idle, remove the ventilator valve and cap assembly from the rocker cover.

If valve is not plugged, a hissing noise will usually be heard as air passes through the valve and a strong vacuum should be felt when a finger is placed over the valve inlet. Reinstall the ventilator valve and cap assembly and remove the inlet breather cap. With engine still running at idle, loosely hold a piece of stiff paper or a parts tag over the oil fill pipe. Within a few seconds, it should be sucked against the oil fill pipe with a holding force. If this occurs, a final test should be made to be certain the valve shuttle is free.

A clicking noise should be heard when the valve is shaken (engine not running). If the noise the unit is heard, is functioning satisfactory and .no further service is necessary.

If the valve does not click when shaken or if the paper is not sucked against fill pipe, valve should be replaced and system retested. (Do not attempt to clean the valve). On all engines the MoPar Ventilator

Valve is identified by a black end washer. With a new valve installed, if the vacuum can be felt with the engine idling, the system is satisfactory. If the vacuum cannot be felt, it will be necessary to clean the ventilator hose and the passages in the lower part of the carburetor. The carburetor must be removed, hand turn a

Yi inch drill through the passages to dislodge the solid particles. Blow clean.

Use a smaller drill if necessary as no metal i s to be removed. It is not necessary to disassemble carburetor for this service.

CLOSED CRANKCASE VENTILATING

GENERAL INFORMATION

A fully closed crankcase ventilation system is installed on vehicles built for sale in the State of Cali- fornia and as extra equipment in other states. This fully-closed crankcase system has a closed oil filler cap with a hose connecting the filler cap to the carburetor air cleaner housing.

The air drawn from the carburetor air cleaner through the connecting hose to the filler cap, is circulated through the engine and drawn out of the cylin-

SYSTEM FOR STATE O F CALIFORNIA

der head cover by manifold vacuum; through another connecting hose to the carburetor base, into the combustion chamber, and dispelled with the exhaust gases (Fig.

2).

On all California vehicles a new outer wrapper is used on the outside of the air cleaner element except

High Performance Engines with non-silenced air cleaners. Vehicles

not

equipped with air cleaner element wrapper must be serviced more frequently than the ones with the wrapper.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

The system must be kept clean to maintain good engine performance and durability as deposits will accumulate in the valve, hose and the carburetor parts, therefore, the ventilation system should be inspected every crankcase oil change and the valve replaced once a year preferably to coincide with the an-

BREATHER INTAKE

SIX-CYLINDER ENGINES

V-8-

ENGINES

N B265F

Fig.

2 4 a l i f o r n i a Closed Crankcase Ventilation System

MyMopar.com

+ nual engine performance evaluation. This service will be required more frequently if the vehicle is used extensively for short trips-driving less than

10 miles- with frequent idling, such as city traffic.

With the engine running at idle, remove the ventilator valve and cap assembly from the rocker cover. If valve is not plugged, a hissing noise will usually be heard as air passes through the valve and a strong vacuum should be felt when a finger is placed over the valve inlet. Reinstall the ventilator valve and cap assembly and remove the oil filler cap. With the engine still running at idle, loosely hold a piece of stiff paper or a parts tag over the fill pipe. Within a few seconds, it should be sucked against the oil fill pipe with a holding force. If this occurs, a final test should be made to be certain the valve shuttle is free.

clicking noise should be heard when the valve is shaken (engine not running). If the noise is heard, the unit is functioning satisfactory and no further service is necessary.

If the valve does not click when shaken or if the paper is not sucked against fill pipe, valve should be replaced and system retested.

(Do not attempt to clean the valve.) On all engines, the MoPar Ventilator

Use a smaller drill if necessary as no metal is to be removed. I t is not necessary to disassemble carburetor for this service.

CARBURETOR AIR CLEANER

W i t h Wrapper Air Cleaner

The paper element carburetor air cleaner should be inspected and cleaned every six months, and replaced every two years with wrapper.

To clean the filter element, it should be removed from its container. Remove wrapper from element.

Wash wrapper in kerosene or similar solvent to remove oil and dirt. Shake or blot dry. Gently blow out

E N G I N E OILING SYSTEM 9-45

STANDARD SCREW FITS

. . . rv\,

Fig. 3-Heli-Coil Installation

dirt from the element with compressed air. Air nozzle should be held about two inches from the inside screen. Clean metal housing, install wrapper on element and reinstall element. Use a new MoPar Filter

Element for replacements. These services will be required more frequently if vehicle is used extensively for short trips with frequent idling.

Without Wrapper Air Cleaner

The paper air cleaner element should be inspected every crankcase oil change and replaced every year.

Remove carburetor air cleaner element from its container. If paper element is dry and with only one or two oil wetted spots, clean by blowing gently with compressed air, holding air nozzle about two inches from inside screen. If the element is saturated with oil, install a new element.

Whenever oil wetting of the paper element i s observed, THE CRANKCASE ventilator valve and associated parts should be checked for excessive deposit build-up or plugging.

Clean the metal housing and reinstall element.

These services will be required more frequently if the vehicle is used extensively for short trips with frequent idling.

REPAIR

DAMAGED OR W O R N T H R E A D S

Damaged or worn threads can be repaired by the use of Heli-Coils. Essentially, this repair consists of drilling out worn or damaged threads, tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, and installing a Heli-

Coil Insert into the tapped holes. This brings the hole back to its original thread size (See Fig.

3).

The following chart lists the threaded hole sizes which are used in the engine block and the necessary tools and inserts for the repair of damaged or worn thread. Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available from automotive parts jobbers.

Thread

Size

1/2-20

16-18

3/8-16

7/ 16-14

1/2-13

HELI-COIL INSERT

Part

No.

1185-4

1185-5

1185-6

1185-7

1185-8

Insert

Length

31 a"

15/32"

91 16"

21/32"

DRILL

Size

17/64(.266)

Q(.332)

X(.397)

291 64(.453)

33/64(.516)

TAP

Part

No.

4 CPB

5 CPB

6 CPB

7 CPB a

CPB

TOOL

INSERTING

Part

No.

5 2 8 - 4 ~

5 2 8 - 5 ~

5 2 8 - 6 ~

5 2 8 - 7 ~

5 2 8 - 8 ~

EXTRACT-

ING TOOL

~ ~

Part

No.

1227-6

1227-16

MyMopar.com

9-46

SPECIFICATIONS

ENGINE

Type

.................................

Number of Cylinders

Bore

Stroke

Piston Displacement

Compression Ratio

..................

.................................

...............................

..................

....................

SPECIFICATIONS

"318"

90" v

3.91"

3.31"

318 cu. in.

9.0 to

"383"

90" v

4.25"

3.375"

383 cu. in.

10.0 to

9.2 to

1**

Compression Pressure with engine warm spark plugs removed- wide open throttle

................

125-155 psi. 125-155 psi*

130-165 psi**

Maximum variation between cylinders (any one Engine)

..........................

Firing Order

Basic Timing

..........................

...............

Automatic

Manual all with C.A.P.

CYLINDER NUMBERING (front to rear)

Left Bank

Right Bank

............................

...........................

CYLINDER BLOCK

Cylinder Bore (standard)

..............

Cylinder Bore Out-of-Round

(Max. allowable before reconditioning)

Cylinder Bore Taper

(Max. allowable before reconditioning)

Reconditioning Working Limits

(for taper and out-of-round)

........

Maximum Allowable Oversize (cylinder bore)

..............................

Tappet Bore Diameter

Distributor Lower Drive Shaft Bushings

(press fit in block)

Ream to

.................

..................

..............

PISTONS

.........................

Shaft to Bushing Clearance

Type Material

........................

25 psi

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

10" B.T.C.

B.T.C.

A.T.C.

1-3-5-7

2-4-6-8

3.910"3-912"

.005"

.010"

.001"

.040"

.9050"-9058''

.0005"-.0040"

.4865"-.4880"

.OOO7"-.0027"

AI um i

Alloy Tin Coated

20 psi*

25 psi**

1-843-6-5-7-2

12-1/2' B.T.C.

12-1/2" B.T.C.

A.T.C.

1-35-7

2-4-6-8

4.2495"-4.2515"

.005"

.010"

.001"

.040"

.9050"-.9058"

.0005"-.0040"

.4865"-.4880"

.0007"-.0027"

Autothermic

W/Steel Struts

Clearance in Bore

(with

Land Clearance (diametral)

Clearance at Top of Skirt

Weight

.0015 x 1/2" feeler stock)

......

............

(Std. through .040" oversize).

...

Piston Length (overall)

No.

..............................

No. 3

Pistons for Service

................

Ring Groove Depth

..............................

....................

5-10

Ibs. Pull

.029"-.034"

.0005"-.0015"

592

grns.

3.21"

Std.

.205"

.198"

.005", .020",

Oversize

Method Not Used

.032"-.038"

.ooO5"-.0015"

770 gms.

3.84"

.220"

.208"

Std.

.005",

.020",

.040"

PISTON PINS

Type

.................................

Diameter

Length

.............................

...............................

Clearance in Piston

(Light Thumb Push @

70°F.)

........

End Play

*With

**With

.............................

Clearance in Rod

.....................

BBL. Carb. (Regular Fuel)

4 BBL. Carb. (Premium Fuel)

Full Floating

.9841"-.9843"

2.990"-3.000"

.0000"-.0005"

.004"-.026"

.0000"-.0005"

Press Fit in Rod

1.0935"-1.0937''

3.555"-3.575"

"426"

90"

4.25"

3.750"

426 cu. in.

10.3 to

130-165 psi

25 psi

1-843-6-5-7-2

12-1/2"

B.T.C.

12-1/2' B.T.C.

A.T.C.

1-3-4-7

2-4-6-8

4.2495"-4.2515"

.005"

.010"

.001"

.040"

.o0O5"-.oO40"

.4865"-.4880"

.0007"-.0027"

Autothermic

W/Steel Struts

Method Not Used

.032"-.OW

.0005"-.0015"

3.84"

.220"

.220"

.208"

Std.

.005",

.020",

Oversize

Press Fit in Rod

1.0935"-1.0937''

3.555"3.575"

MyMopar.com

SPEC

FI CAT1

9-47

ENGINE-(Continued)

"318"

Interference in Rod

Pins for Service

.................

....................

Std.

Oversize

"383"

.0007"-.0012"

Standard Only

PISTON RINGS

Number of Rings per Piston

Compression

Oil

................................

Oil Ring Type

........

.......................

......................

Cast iron with expander

Ring Width

Compression

0 i I-Cast iron

Steel rails

....................

Ring Cap

Compression

Oi I-Cast Iron

.....................

Steel rails

...................

....................

...................

Ring Side Clearance

Compression

Oi I-Cast Iron

.....................

Steel rails

....................

...................

Service Rings

Ring Gap

Corn pression

...................

Oil (Steel rails) Cast Iron not available for Service

..........

Ring Side Clearance

Compression

...................

Oil (Steel rails) Cast Iron not available for Service

..........

CONNECTING RODS

Length (Center to Center)

..........

Weight (less bearing shells)

........

Side Clearance (two rods)

Piston Pin Bore Diameter

..........

.0775"-.0780"

1865"

.0015"-.0030"

010"-.020"

.0015"-.062"

6.123"

726

gms.

.006"-.014"

1.037"-1.039''

3-piece

Chrome-Plated

Rails with Stainless

Steel Expander-Spacer

.0775"-.0780"

.025"

.013"-.025"

.015"-.055"

.0015"-.0030"

.0002"-.005"

.010"-.020"

.015"-.062"

.0015"-.004"

.o002"-.005"

6.356"-6.360"

812

.009"-.017"

1.0923"-1.0928"

"426"

.0007"-.0012"

Standard Only

3-piece

C h rome-PI ated

Rails with Stainless

Steel Expander-Spacer

.0775"-.0780"

.025"

.013"-.025"

,015"-.055"

.0015"-.004"

.O002"-.005"

6.766"-6.770"

846

-c

.009"-.017"

1.0923"-1.0928"

CONNECTING ROD BUSHING

Type

.........................

Steel Backed Bronze

CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS

(Type)

........................

Steel Backed Grid Type

Diameter and Width

Clearance Desired

CRANKSHAFT

...........

2.126"

,842"

.............

.OOO5"-.0015"

Maximum Allowable

Bearings for Service

...........

Std.,

.0025"

.001",

.003",

Type

.........................

Fully Counter-Balanced

Bearings

Thrust Taken By

End Play

......................

...............

......................

Maximum Allowable

.........

Diametral Clearance Allowed..

Diametral Clearance Desired

Finish at Rear Oil Seal Surface

MAIN BEARING JOURNALS

Diameter

.....................

Maximum AI Iowa ble

Out-of-Round and/or Taper

...

. .

Steel Backed Babbitt

No.

Main Bearing

.002"-.007"

.010"

.0005"-.0015"

.0025"

Diagonal Knurling

2.4995"-2.5005"

.001"

None

Steel Backed Babbitt

2.376"

.927"

.OOO5"-.0015"

Std.,

.0025"

.001", .002",

Fully Counter-Balanced

Steel Backed Babbitt

No.

Main Bearing

.002"-.007"

.010"

.0005"-.0015"

.0025"

Diagonal Knurling

2.6245"-2.6255"

None

Steel Backed Grid Type

2.376"

.927"

.0005"-.0015"

.0025"

Std.,

I I

y Cou n ter-Bala nced

Steel Backed Babbitt

No.

Main Bearing

.002"-.007"

.010"

.0005"-.0015"

.0025"

Diagbnal Knurling

2.7495"-2.7505"

MyMopar.com

9-48 SPEC

I Fl

CAT10

NS

ENGl N E-(

Con

tinued)

"31 8"

Bearings for Service Available in

Standard and the following un- .001", .002", .003", de rs

CONNECTING ROD JOURNALS

Diameter

Dia metra I Clearance

Maximum Allowable before

End Play

. .

Thrust Taken By

. .. . . . .

. . .

. .

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

Maximum Allowable Out-of-

Round and/or Taper

CAMSHAFT

Drive

. . . . . . .

.........................

Bearings

Number i zes

. .

Maximum Allowable

. .

. . . . .

. .

Reconditioning

Diameter

. .

. . . . . .

. . . .

. .

. . .

. .

. . . .

CAMSHAFT J

0 U R N ALS

. . .

. . . .

. .

................

. .

No. 1

No. 2

.010", .012"

2.124"-2.125"

.001"

Chain

Steel Backed Babbitt

.001"-.003"

.005"

Thrust Plate

.002"-.006"

.010"

1.998"-1.999"

1.982"-1.983"

No. 3 1.967"-1.968"

1.951"-1.952"

No. 4

Diameter

No. 5

CAMSHAFT BEARINGS

...............

No.

No. 2

No. 3

No. 4

1.5605"-1.5615"

2.000"-2.001"

1.984"-1.985"

1.969"-1.970"

1.953"-1.954"

VALVE TIMING

Exhaust Opens (BBC)

Exhaust Closes (ATC)

Valve Overlap

Type

Guide Bore Diameter

............

. . .

Intake Valve Duration

Exhaust Valve Duration

TIMING CHAIN

Number of Links

Pitch

. .

. . . . . . . .

Width

TAPPETS

. . .

. .

Type

. . .

. .

. . . . . .

. . . .

Body Diameter

Clearance in Block

. . .

.. . ..

Service Tappets Available

. .

............................

. . .

. . . .

.......

Operating Clearance (Hot)

. . . .

. .

. . . . . . . .

Clearance Between Valve Stem and

Rocker Arm

......................

Pad(DryLash1

.................

CYLINDER HEAD

Valve Seat Run-Out (Maximum)

Intake Valve Seat Angle

Seat Width (finish)

Exhaust Valve Seat Angle

'Seat Width (finish)

Cylinder Head Gasket

(Thickness compressed)

VALVE GUIDES

No. 5

....................

Intake Opens (BTC)

Intake Closes (ABC)

. . . . . .

. .

. . . .

. .

......

. . .

. .

. . .

........

. . . . . .

. .

. . . . .

. . .

. .

. . .

. . . . .

. . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . .

. .

. . .

. .

. . . . .

. . .

. . .. ..

. .

. . .

.............

VALVES41 NTAKE)

Head Diameter

. .

. . .

. .

. . .

. .

. . . .

. .

. . .

. .

. . .

. .

1.5625"-1.5635"

2 BBI. Carb.

244"

240

.375"

.625"

Mechanical

.9040"-.9045"

.0005"-.0015"

.001" .008", .030" Std.,

.021" Exhaust

.002"

.060"-.085"

.040"-.060"

.028"

Cast in Head

.374"-.375" Std.

1.844"

"383"

.001", .002",

.my,

.010", .012"

2.374"-2.375"

.001"

Chain

Steel Backed Babbitt

.001"-.003"

.005"

Cylinder Block

1.998"-1.999"

1.982"-1.983"

1.967"-1.968"

1.951"-1.952"

1.748"-1.749"

2.000"-2.001"

1.984"-1.984"

1.969"-1.970"

1.953"-1.954"

1.750"-1.751"

2 BBI. Carb. 4 BBI. Carb.

59"

252

14"

256"

260

.50"

.75"

H yd rau I ic

.9040"-.9045"

.0005"-.0015"

.001"

.060"-.210"

.002"

.060"-.085"

.040"-.060"

.022"

Cast i n Head

.374"-.375" Std.

2.08"

"426"

.001", .002", .003",

.010", .011", .012"

2.374"-2.375"

.001"

Chain

Steel Backed Babbitt

.001"-.003"

.005"

Cylinder Block

1.998"-1.999"

1.982"-1.983"

1.967"-1.968"

1.951"-1.952"

1.748"-1.749"

2.000"-2.001"

1.984"-1.984"

1.969"-1.970"

1.953"-1.954"

1.750"-1.751"

BBI. Carb.

18"

58"

66"

14"

32"

256"

260

.50"

.75"

Hydra u

.9040"-.9045"

.0005"-.0015"

.001"

.008",

.030"

.002"

.060"-.085"

.040"-.060"

.022"

Cast in Head

.374"-.375" Std.

2.08"

MyMopar.com

SPEC

FI

CAT1 0 N S 9-49

ENGINE-(Continued)

"3 1 8" "383" "426"

VALVES-(I NTAKE)-Continued

Length (to center of valve face)

Stem Diameter (Standard)

Stem to Guide Clearance

Maximum Allowable

Face Angle

Valve for Service

Lift (Zero Lash)

...

........

.......

..........

....................

4.59"

.372"-.373"

.001

I f

-.003"

.017"***

..............

Std., .005", .015",

.030"

Oversize Stem Diam.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

.397"

4.87"

.372"-.373"

.001"-.03"

.017"

***

Std.,

.005", .015",

.030"

Oversize Stem Diam.

.392"

BBI.

,425"

BBI.

VALVES-( EXHAUST)

Head Diameter

...............

Length to (center of valve face)

.....

Stem Diameter (Standard)

Stem to Guide Clearance

Maximum Allowable

Face Angle

.......

. . . . . . . . .

...................

Valve for Service

.............

Lift (Zero Lash)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1.563"

4.53"

.3715"

.002"-.004"

017~***

Std.,

.005", .015", .030"

Oversize Stem Diam.

.403"

1.60"

4.87"

.371"-.372"

.002"-.004"

017n

* * *

45"

Std., .005", .015", .030"

Oversize Stem Diam.

.390"

BBI.

.435"

BBI.

VALVE SPRINGS

Number

......................

Free Length

..................

1.92"

2.34"

2.58"

Load when Compressed to

(valve closed)

..............

49-57 Ibs. @ 1-11/16"

95-105 @ 1-55/64""

121-129

1-55/64"**

Load when Compressed to

(valve open)

................

137-150 I bs.

1-5/ 16"

Valve Springs I.D.

..............

Maximum Allowable

Out of Plumb

................

Valve Spring Installed Height

1.00"

1/ 16"

(spring seat to retainer)

Use

ROCKER SHAFT ASSEMBLY

.....

1-5/8"-1-11/ 16"

1/16" Spacer to Reduce Spring Height when Over

Clearance Between Rocker Arm and Shaft

.................. and Bracket

.001"-.003"

Clearance Between Rocker Arm

................

.001"-.0045"

187-203

1-15/32"

192-208

1-7/ 16"**

1.010"-1.030"

1/ 16"

1-53/ 64" -1-57/ 64"

EN G

N E L U B R

I CAT ION

Pump Type

.........................

.Rotary Full Pressure Rotary Full Pressure

Capacity (qts.)

Pump Drive

.......................

.........................

.Camshaft

Minimum Pump Pressure

500 R.P.M. .20 PSI

Operating Pressure at

1000

R.P.M.

Pressure Drop Resulting from

....

......................

.4$

.45-65

Ibs.

7-9 I bs.

Clogged Filter

Oil Filter Type

.......................

.Full-Flow

Camshaft

20 PSI

45-65 I bs.

7-9 I bs.

Full-Flow

4.87"

.372"-.373"

.001"-.003"

0171#***

Std.,

.005", . O W , .030"

Oversize Stem Diam.

.425"

1.60"

4.87"

.371"-.372"

.02"-.OM"

017"***

Std., .005", .015", .030"

Oversize Stem Diam.

.435"

2.58"

121-129

1-55/64"

192-208

1-71 16"

1.010"-1.030"

1/ 16"

1-53/64"-1-57/64"

Rotary Full Pressure

Camshaft

20 PSI

45-65

bs.

7-9

I bs.

Full-Flow

*With

2 BBI. Carb.

**With

BBI. Carb. ***With tools

C-3973

C-3339 using wobble method

SWhen Filter Element is Replaced Add 1 Quart.

MyMopar.com

9-50

SPEC I FI CAT1 0 N S

O I L PUMP-INSPECTION LIMITS FOR REPLACEMENT

318

Cu. In. Engines

383 and

426

Cu. In. Engines

Oil Pump Cover

...................................................

Outer Rotor Length

Inner Rotor Length

................................................

Outer Rotor Diameter

..............................................

................................................

Clearance Over Rotors-Outer

Outer Rotor Clearance

Inner

.....................................

.............................................

Tip Clearance Between Rotors

.....................................

.0015 inch or more

.825 inch or less

2.469 inch or less

.825 inch or less

.004 inch or more

.012 inch or more

.010 inch or more

.0015 inch or more

.943 inch or less

2.469 inch or less

.942 inch or less

.004 inch or more

.005 inch or more

.012 inch or more

.010 inch or more

OVERSIZE

AND UNDERSIZE

ENGINE C O M P O N E N T M A R K I N G S

Engine

Displacement Condition

318 cu. in.

. O W

U / S Crankshaft

.020”

Bores

Identification Location of Identification

Maltese Cross

M-2-3 etc. (indicating

No. 2 & 3 main bearing journal) and/or

R-1-4 etc. (indicating

No. 1 & 4 connecting rod journal)

Maltese Cross and X

M (indicates .010“ U/S all main journals) and/or

R (indicating .010” U/S all rod journals)

Following engine serial number

Crankshaft counterweight

Following engine serial number

Crankshaft counterweight

Following engine serial number

383 cu. in.

426 cu. in.

.001” U/S Crankshaft

.010” U/S Crankshaft

.020” O/S Cylinder

Bores

.008”

O/S Tappets

.005”

Maltese Cross

M-2-3 etc. (indicating

No. 2 & 3 main bearing journal) and/or

R-1-4 etc. (indicating

No. 1 & 4 connecting rod jo u rn a I

Maltese Cross and

M-10 (indicates

. O W

U / S

all main journals) and/or

R-10 (indicates .010”

U/S all rod journals)

Top pad-Front of engine

Crankshaft counterweight

Top pad-Front of engine

Crankshaft counterweight

Top pad-Front of engine

O.S.

Top pad-Front of engine

Single bolt boss on end of

MyMopar.com

318 CUBIC I N C H ENGINES

Connecting Rod Nut-Plain

Cylinder Head Bolt

Main Bearing Cap

Camshaft Nut

Camshaft Lockbolt

Camshaft Thrust Plate

..............................................

......................................................

.......................................................

...........................................................

......................................................

Chain Case Cover (Cast)

Clutch Housing Bolt

..................................................

.................................................

.....................................................

Clutch Housing Vent Hole

...............................................

Clutch Housing Pan Drain Plug

..........................................

Crankshaft Bolt

Frame

.........................................................

Cylinder Head Cover

....................................................

Engine Front Mounting

To Engine Bosses

.....................................................

.............................................................

To Frame Bracket Stud

Flywheel Housing Cover

................................................

Engine Rear Mounting

To Transmission

To Frame

......................................................

.............................................................

Flywheel Housing to Cylinder Block

......................................

.................................................

Intake Manifold

Oil Pan Bolt

........................................................

Oil Level Indicator Tube Bracket

Oil Pan Drain Plug

Oil Pump Cover Bolt

..........................................

......................................................

............................................................

Oil Filler Tube

Spark Plug

.....................................................

Oil Pump Attaching Bolt

.................................................

..........................................................

Rocker Shaft Bracket Bolt

.............................................................

Vibration Damper Bolt

...............................................

...................................................

-SPEC I Fl CAT1

0 NS

9-51

Torque

Foot-pounds

125

100 in.-lbs.

135

36 in.-lbs.

100 in.-lbs.

130 in.-lbs.

200 in.-lbs.

Thread

Size

3/8-24

1/2-13

%-13

51 16-18

3/8-16

1/4-20

3/4-16

V4-20

3/8-16

%-28 v1-20

51 16-18

%-20

3/8-16

51 16-18

14mm

51 16-24

383-426 CUBIC I N C H ENGINES

Connecting Rod Nut-Plain

Cylinder Head Bolt

..............................................

......................................................

Main Bearing Cap Bolt

'Spark Plug

..................................................

.............................................................

Cams haft Lockbo

Clutch Housing Bolt

......................................................

Carburetor to Manifold Nut

Chain Case Cover Bolt

..............................................

...................................................

Torque Converter Housing Bolt

...........................................

.....................................................

Crankshaft Rear Bearing Seal Retainer

....................................

.......................................

Crankshaft Bolt (Vibration Damper)

Cylinder Head Cover Stud and Nut

Distributor Clamp Bolt

Engine Front Mounting to Block Nut

Exhaust Manifold Nut

...................................................

Exhaust Pipe Flange Nut

Exhaust Pipe Clamp Bolt

........................................

..................................................

Engine Front Mounting to Frame Nut

.....................................

......................................

.................................................

Exhaust Pipe Support Clamp Bolt

Fan Attaching Bolt

Alternator Mounting Nut

...............................................

................................................

Alternator Adjusting Strap Bolt

Intake Manifold Bolt

.........................................

......................................................

Fan Belt Idler Pulley Nut

.................................................

Fan Belt Idler Pulley Bracket Bolt

........................................

Flywheel Housing to Cylinder Block Bolt

...........................................

Alternator Adjusting Strap Mounting Bolt

..................................

Flywheel Cover Bolt

.....................................................

Fuel Pump Attaching Bolt

.................................

.....................................................

Torque

Foot-Pou nds

135

15-18

Thread

Size

3/8-24

1/2-13

14mm

16-14

16-18

3/8-16

3/4-16

1/4-28

16-18 v2-20

16-20

3/8-16

7/16-20

3/8-24

16-20

3/8-16

16-14

V4-20

3/8-16

MyMopar.com

9-52 SPEC

FlCATl

0 N S

Manifold Heat Control Counterweight Bolt

Oil Pan Drain Plug

Oil Pan Bolt

Oil Pump Cover Bolt

Oil

Pump Attaching Bolt

Starter Mounting Bolt

Vibration Damper Bolt

................................

......................................................

............................................................

.....................................................

.................................................

Rocker Shaft Bracket Bolt

...............................................

...................................................

Valve Tappet Cover End Bolt

Water Pump to Housing Bolt

.............................................

Water Pump Housing to Cylinder Block Bolt

A/C Compressor to Engine Bolt

...............................

..........................................

Foot-pounds

Torque

50 in.-lbs.

Thread

Size

10-32

1/2-20

5/ 16-18

3/8-16

16-14

5/ 16-18

44-20

3/8-16

3h-16

3/8-16

MyMopar.com

G R O U P

11 EXHAUST SYSTEM

Page Page

EXHAUST MANIFOLD

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3 MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE..

. . .

4 EXHAUST PIPES, MUFFLERS AND

TAIL PIPES

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

INTAKE MANIFOLD

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1 MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE

REPLACEMENT

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5 3 TIGHTENING REFERENCE

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6 GENERAL IN FORMATION

Long life aluminized muffler components are used single exhaust systems are suspended at the rear by double strap type supports. New

“0”

type supports are used at the rear of the mufflers on models equipped with dual exhaust systems (Figs.

1 and

2).

Both single and dual systems use ball joint connections in the exhaust pipes forward of the mufflers to facilitate alingment of the exhaust systems.

The right hand exhaust manifolds on all engines incorporate a thermostatic heat control valve to direct the exhaust gases to a heat chamber beneath the carburetor mounting flange to help vaporize the fuel.

SERVICE D I A G N O S I S

Correction Possible Cause Condition

EXCESSIVE EXHAUST

NOISE

LEAKING EXHAUST

GASES

(a) Leaks at pipe joints.

(b) Burned or blown out muffler.

(d) Exhaust pipe leaking at manifold flange.

(e)

Exhaust manifold cracked or broken.

(f)

Leak between manifold and cylinder block.

(a) Tighten clamps at leaking joints.

(b) Replace muffler assembly.

(d) Install a haust pipe flange nuts 35 foot-pounds.

(e) Replace manifold.

( f )

Tighten manifold to cylinder block nuts 30 foot-pounds.

(a) Leaks at pipe joints. (a) Tighten clamps at leaking joints.

(b) Damaged or improperly installed gas- (b) Replace gaskets a s necessary. kets.

(c)

Restriction in muffler or tail pipe. (c) Remove restriction, if possible or place as necessary. re-

(a) Heat control valve frozen in open (a) Free up manifold heat control valve position. using a suitable solvent.

ENGINE HARD

WARM

UP O R WILL

NOT RETURN TO

NORMAL IDLE

NOISE I N MANIFOLD

MANIFOLD HEAT

CONTROL VALVE

RATTLE

(a) Thermostat broken. (a) Replace thermostat.

(b) Weak, broken or missing anti-rattle (b) Replace spring. spring.

(a) Thermostat broken. (a) Replace thermostat.

(b) Broken, weak or missing anti-rattle

(b)

Replace spring. spring.

SERVICE PROCEDURES

EXHAUST PIPES, MUFFLERS, TAIL PIPES

Removal

(1) Raise vehicle on a hoist and lubricate clamp nuts and bolts with penetrating oil to loosen rust and corrosion.

(2) Remove clamps from exhaust pipe, muffler and tail pipe.

(3)

Disconnect ball joint connection in exhaust

Pipe.

(4)

Disconnect exhaust pipe at exhaust manifolds and remove exhaust pipe.

(5)

Remove muffler, extension pipe and tail pipe assembly.

MyMopar.com

11-2 EXHAUST SYSTEM

NK947A

VIEW

CIRCLE A

Fig. 2-Exhaust System-Dual (Polara Suburbans w i t h 426 Cu. In. Engine)

NN135A

MyMopar.com

EXHAUST CROSSOVER PASSAGE

WELL FOR AUTOMATIC

EXHAUST SYSTEM 11-3

NY 843

1 3

EXHAUST CROSSOVER PASSAGE

A \

CARBURETOR

MOUNTING FLANGE

Fig. 3-Intake Manifold

If only the muffler is to be replaced, cut the extension at the muffler with a hack saw or cutter. It is not necessary to remove the exhaust pipe. The replacement muffler can be installed, using a clamp at the front of the muffler.

installation

( 1 )

Connect exhaust pipe to exhaust manifolds, using new gaskets. Tighten nuts to

foot-pounds.

(2)

Adjust support heights for proper alignment.

(3)

Tighten

“U”

bolt nuts to

100

inch-pounds.

(4)

Tighten support clamp screws to

inch- pounds.

(5)

Align system a t ball joint connection and tighten flange bolts to

foot-pounds. The inner surfaces of the flanges should be parallel to each other and

Fig. 4-Manifold Heat Control V a l v e

( 3 18 Cu. In. Engine)

NK989A

NN205

Fig. 5-Manifold Heat

Control Valve

( 3 8 3 and 4 2 6 Cu. In. Engines)

perpendicular to the pipe axis.

(6)

Adjust converter housing bracket, so that it is flat against converter housing and in proper contact with pipe tab. Tighten bolts to

foot-pounds.

INTAKE MANIFOLD

Refer to ”Engine” Group

for removal and installation of intake manifold.

With manifold removed, clean and inspect it as follows:

Servicing

( 1 )

Clean manifold in solvent. Blow dry with compressed air.

(2)

Inspect exhaust crossover passages and pressure test for leakage into any

the intake passages

(Fig.

3).

(3)

Inspect mating surfaces for parallelism.

(4) Use new gaskets when installing manifold.

EXHAUST MANIFOLD

Removal

(1) Disconnect spark plug cables from spark plugs.

(2)

Remove alternator from right cylinder head.

(3)

Disconnect exhaust pipe at exhaust manifold flanges.

(4)

Remove nuts that hold exhaust manifolds to cylinder heads.

(5)

Slide manifolds off studs and away from cylinder heads.

Cleaning and

inspection

(1)

Clean exhaust manifolds in solvent. Blow dry with compressed air.

(2)

Inspect manifolds for cracks and distortion.

MyMopar.com

11-4 EXHAUST SYSTEM

XHAUST MANIFOLD

C O U N

ANTI-RATTLE SPRING

NER

'STOP PIN

VALVE SHAFT

BUMPER

CLAMP BO1

Fig. 6-Manifold Heat

Control Valve

NK1295 test manifold heat control valve for free operation. If necessary to free up, apply a suitable manifold heat control valve solvent to both ends of valve shaft. Be sure manifold is COOL and solvent allowed to soak a few minutes to dissolve deposits. Then, work valve back and forth until it turns freely.

suitable solvent is available under Part

Number

1879318,

Manifold Heat Control Valve

Solvent.

Installation

NOTE: If studs came out with the nuts, install new studs, applying sealer on the coarse thread ends.

If this precaution i s not taken, water leaks may develop at the studs.

(1)

Install manifolds on cylinder heads. No gaskets are required. Tighten stud nuts to

(2)

Connect exhaust pipe at exhaust manifolds.

Tighten nuts to

valve back and forth until it turns freely.

suitable solvent is available under Part Number

1879318,

Manifold Heat Control Valve Solvent.

Removal

(All

Models)

The counterweight and the thermostat, being located on opposite ends of the valve shaft, can be serviced individually without the necessity for complete disassembly.

Counterweight-Removal

(All

Models)

(1) Remove counterweight and bumper from outer end of valve shaft by loosening clamp bolt (Fig.

7 ) .

Thermostat-Removal

(All

Models)

(1)

To remove thermostat on inner end of valve shaft, first remove anti-rattle spring (Fig.

6 or

7).

(2)

Unhook thermostat from stop pin and slide from valve shaft.

Cleaning and Inspection

Move the valve shaft back and forth and test the operation. If the shaft is binding in the manifold, apply a suitable solvent to dissolve the deposits, as outlined on page 0.

If fabric on bumper is worn, install a new bumper.

Thermostat-Installation (3

I 8

Cu. In. Engine)

of valve shaft. Then, turn valve shaft in the extreme counterclockwise position.

(2) Install a new thermostat in slot in inner end of shaft (Fig.

right hand position, as viewed from right hand side of engine.

Press inner end of thermostat into shaft and seat firmly. and adjust belt tension.

(4)

Connect spark plug cables to spark plugs.

M A N I F O L D H E A T CONTROL VALVE (318,

383 and 426 Cu. In. Engines)

Servicing

Operation of the manifold heat control valve (Figs.

and

5),

should be inspected periodically. With the engine idling, accelerate momentarily to wide open throttle. The counterweight on

318

cubic inch engines should respond by moving

clockwise

approximately

1/2

inch and return to its original position. On

383

and

426

cubic inch engines, the counterweight should move

counterclockwise.

If no movement is observed, the shaft is binding due to accumulation of deposits or the thermostat is weak or broken.

The application of a suitable manifold heat control valve solvent, every six months, to both ends of the manifold heat control valve shaft at the bushings, will keep the valve working freely. The solvent should be applied when the engine is COOL and allowed to soak a few minutes to dissolve the deposits. Then, work the as viewed from right hand side of engine, and engage under stop pin.

ANTI-RATTLE SPRING

RETAINER THERMOSTAT

NUT

-..

VALVE SHAFT

COUNTERWEIGHT

Fig. 7-Manifold Heat

Control Valve

(383 and 426 Cu. In. Engine)

NN206

MyMopar.com

EXHAUST SYSTEM

11-5

- _ -

STO'P PIN

NN207

Fig.

0-Installing Thermostat

(383 a n d 426

Cu.

In. Engine)

Fig. 8-Installing Thermostat ( 3

(4)

Install anti-rattle spring on end of pin and end of valve shaft. Make sure it does not interfere with thermostat.

Counterweight-Installation

Engine)

(3 I8

Cu. In.

(1)

Be sure shaft retainer is in place on outer end of valve shaft (Fig. 9).

(2) Install counterweight and bumper on outer end of valve shaft. The bumper should be located on the left hand side of the hub section of the counterweight and on the right hand side of the stop pin (Fig.

9).

(3)

Lighten clamp bolt to

inch-pounds with

C-3380

Torque Wrench. Test operation of valve for freedom of movement.

Thermost at-Installation

(383

and 426 Cu. In.

Engines

(1)

Be sure shaft retainer is in place on inner

valve shaft. Then, turn valve shaft in the extreme clockwise position.

(2) Install a new thermostat in slot in inner end of shaft (Fig. 10) with outer end in upper left hand position, as viewed from right hand side of engine.

Press inner end of thermostat into shaft and seat firmly.

(3)

Wrap outer end of thermostat clockwise, as viewed from right hand side of engine, and engage over stop pin.

(4)

Install anti-rattle spring on end of stop pin and end of valve shaft. Make sure it does not interfere with thermostat (Fig.

11).

Counterweight-lnstallation

(383

and 426 Cu.

In. Engines

(1)

Be sure shaft retainer is in place on outer end of valve shaft.

(2) Install counterweight and bumper on outer end of valve shaft. The bumper should be located on the right hand side of the hub section of the counterweight and on the left hand side of the stop pin (Fig.

12).

(3)

Tighten clamp bolt to

inch-pounds with

C-

3380

Torque Wrench. Test operation of valve for freedom of movement.

MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE

R EPLAC EM

ENT

Removal

(1)

Remove alternator.

SHAFT

NK992A

Fig. 9-Installing Counterweight ( 3 Cu. In. Engine)

Fig. 1 I-Thermostat Installed

(383 a n d 426 Cu. In. Engines)

\1N208

MyMopar.com

11-6

EXHAUST SYSTEM

Installation

(1) Install new bushings in exhaust manifold.

(2) Install shaft in manifold and check shaft for freedom of movement. If shaft fails to turn freely, it will be necessary to hone the bushings to shaft size.

(3)

Pull shaft out far enough to position the valve plate on the shaft, then slide shaft into position in both bushings.

(4)

Align hole in valve plate with hole in shaft and insert a drift into both holes to maintain correct positioning of valve plate as it is being welded to shaft.

(5) Remove drift from valve plate and shaft.

(6)

Install new thermostat, anti-rattle spring, shaft retainers and counterweight assembly on shaft.

Fig. 12-Installing Counterweight

(383

and

426 Cu. In. Engines)

(2)

Remove exhaust pipe from manifold.

(3)

Remove exhaust manifold from engine.

(4)

Remove counterweight, thermostat, shaft retainers and anti-rattle spring.

( 5 )

Cut valve plate off shaft.

(6)

Remove shaft and press bushings from the manifold.

( 8 )

Attach exhaust pipe to manifold, using a new gasket where required.

(9) Install alternator and adjust belt tension.

(10) Start engine and test operation of manifold heat control valve assembly.

Servicing

Test the manifold heat control valve for proper operation during engine tune-up and apply a suitable manifold heat control valve solvent to both ends of valve shaft to dissolve the deposits, ,as outlined on page

TIGHTENING REFERENCE

FOOT INCH

POUNDS

Converter Housing Bracket Screw

..........

Exhaust Manifold Nuts

....................

Exhaust Pipe Ball Joint Bolts

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Exhaus Pipe Flange Bolts Nuts

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

Exhaust Pipe U-Bolt Nuts

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

150

Heat Control Valve Counterweight

Clamp Bolt Nut

.........................

Rear Muffler Support to Underbody Bolt

. . . .

200

Support Clamp Screws

.................... -

Tail Pipe Support to Underbody Bolt

......

200

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GROUP 14

FUEL SYSTEM

AFB-SERIES CARBURETOR

BBD SERIES CARBURETOR

Page

. . . . . . . . . . . .

23

. . . . . . . . . . . .

14 WW3 STROMBERG CARBURETOR

WWC3 SERIES CARBURETOR

. . . . . .

33

. . . . . . . . . .

4 FUEL PUMP

FUELTANKS

Page

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

43

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45 THROTTLE LINKAGE

SPEC

F

CAT1 0 N S

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

48

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

49 VACUUM CONTROL VALVE C.A.P..

. . . . . .

43 GENERAL INFORMATION

SERVICING THE CARBURETOR

Dirt, dust, water and gummy deposits are some of the main causes for poor carburetor operation. How- ever, proper cleaning and the installation of new parts, where required, will return the carburetor to its original designed performance.

When overhauling the carburetor, several items of importance should be observed to assure a good job:

(1) All parts (except the choke diaphragm assembly) should be carefully cleaned in a suitable solvent, then inspected for damage or wear.

(2)

Use air pressure only, to clear the various orifices and channels.

(3)

Replace questionable parts with

NEW

ones.

When checking parts removed from the carburetor, it is at times rather difficult to be sure they are satisfactory for further service. It is therefore, recommended that in such case,

NEW

parts be installed.

(4)

Always use a complete kit when overhauling the carburetor. Using the code number stamped on the air horn, adjacent to the fuel inlet, refer to the parts catalog and order the correct repair kit for the carburetor being worked on.

CLEANING CARBURETOR PARTS

The recommended solvent for gum deposits is denatured alcohol which is easily obtainable. How- ever, there are other commercial solvents, (such as

Metalclene) which may be used with satisfactory results.

The choke diaphragm can be damaged by solvents.

Avoid placing the diaphragm assembly in

A N Y

liquid.

Clean the external surfaces with a clean cloth or soft wire brush. Shake dirt or other foreign material from the stem side of the diaphragm. Depressing the diaphragm stem to the retracted position, will provide an additional hole for the removal of dirt. Compressed air can be used to remove loose dirt,

but should not be connected to the vacuum inlet fitting.

IMPORTANT:

If the commercial solvent or cleaner recommends the use of water as a rinse, it should be

”HOT.”

After rinsing, all trace of water must be blown from the passages with air pressure. It i s further advisable to rinse all parts in clean gasoline or kerosene to be certain no trace of moisture remains.

Never clean jets with a wire, drill or other mechanical means because the orifices may become enlarged, making the fuel mixture too rich for proper performance.

AUTOMATIC CHOKE (Well Type)

To function properly, it is important that all parts be clean and move freely. Other than an occasional cleaning, the automatic choke control requires no servicing. However, it is very important that the choke control unit works freely at the thermostatic coil spring housing and at the choke shaft. Move the choke rod up and down to check for free movement of the coil housing on the pivot. If the unit binds, a new unit should be installed.

The well type choke is serviced as an assembly.

Do not attempt to repair or change the setting, unless authorized by service literature. Changes of the choke setting materially affect summer temperature, cold starting and seldom are a satisfactory correction of driveability problems, which are generally associated with carburetors or vacuum diaphragms.

When installing the well type choke unit, make certain that the coil housing does not contact the sides or bottom of the well. Any contact at this point will affect choke operation.

Do not lubricate any of the choke parts or the control unit, since this causes dirt to accumulate, which would result in a binding condition of the choke mechanism.

The choke control unit is accurately adjusted when originally assembled. Under normal service operation, it is recommended

not

to change the setting, or to dissemble the components for servicing. If however, the setting has been disturbed, reset as follows:

Loosen locknut “A” and turn part with screwdriver until index mark on disk

“B”

coincides with the correct mark on the bracket. Hold in this position with screwdriver while tightening nut.

CLOSED CRANKCASE VENT SYSTEM

The closed crankcase ventilator valve is located in the crankcase vent tube body and is connected to the carburetor throttle body with a rubber tube.

The function of the valve is to regulate the flow

unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase and return them to the intake manifold. From here they enter the combustion chamber and then exit with the exhaust system as completely burned exhaust products. For servicing procedures of this system, refer to “Engine,” Group 9.

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14-2 FUEL

SYSTEM-SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Condition

POOR IDLING

POOR

ACCELERATION

CARBURETOR FLOODS

LEAKS

SERVICE DIAGNOSIS

Possible Cause Correction

(a) Idle air bleed carbonized or of in- (a) Disassemble the carburetor. Then, use correct size, compressed air to clear idle bleed after soaking it in a suitable solvent.

(b) Idle discharged holes plugged or (b) Disassemble the carburetor. Then, use gummed. compressed air to clear idle discharge holes after soaking the main and throttle bodies in a suitable solvent.

(c)

Disassemble the carburetor. Check the throttle valve shaft for wear. If excessive wear is apparent, replace the throttle body assembly.

(d) Damaged or worn idle mixture needle. (d) Replace the worn or damaged idle needle. Adjust the air mixture.

(e) Low grade fuel or incorrect float level. (e) Test the fuel level i n the carburetor.

Adjust as necessary to obtain the correct float level.

(f)

Loose main body to throttle body (f) Tighten the main body to throttle body screws. screws securely to prevent air leaks and cracked housings.

(g) Worn or corroded needle valve and (g) Clean and inspect the needle valve seat. and seat.

If found to be in questionable condition, replace assembly.

Then, test fuel pump pressure. Refer

(h) Incorrect timing. to Specifications for correct fuel pump pressure.

(h) Reset timing.

(a) Accelerator pump piston (or plunger) leather too hard, worn, or loose on stem.

(b) Faulty accelerator pump discharge ball.

(d) Incorrect fuel or float level.

(e) Worn accelerator pump and throttle

I in kage.

(f) Manifold heat valve sticking.

(g)

No power mixture.

(h) Incorrect timing.

(a) Disassemble the carburetor. Replace accelerator pump assembly if leather

hard, cracked or worn. Test follow- up spring for compression.

(b) Disassemble the carburetor. Use compressed air to clean the discharge nozzle and channels after soaking the main body i n a suitable solvent. Test the fuel pump capacity.

(c) Disassemble the carburetor. Check the accelerator pump inlet check ball for poor seat or release. If part is faulty, replace.

(d) Test the fuel or float level in the carburetor. Adjust as necessary to obtain the correct float level.

(e) Disassemble the carburetor. Replace the worn accelerator pump and throttle linkage and measure for the correct position.

(f) Free up manifold heat control valve; using recommended solvent.

(g) Test power piston operation.

(h) Reset timing.

(a) Cracked body.

(b) Faulty body gaskets.

(d) Worn needle valve and seat.

(a) Disassemble the carburetor. Replace the cracked body. Make sure main to throttle body screws are tight.

(b) Disassemble the carburetor. Replace the defective gaskets and test for leakage. Be sure the screws are tightened securely.

Make the necessary adjustment to obtain correct float level.

(d) Clean and inspect the needle valve and seat. If found to be in a ques-

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SERVICE DIAGNOSIS-FUEL SYSTEM 14-3

Condition

POOR PERFORMANCE

MIXTURE TOO RICH

POOR COLD ENGINE

START1 NG INCORRECT

PROCEDURE

Possible Cause

(e) Excessive fuel pump pressure.

(a) Restricted air cleaner.

(b) Leaking float.

(d) Excessive fuel pump pressure.

(e) Worn metering jet.

Correction

tionable condition, replace the complete assembly and test the fuel pump pressure. Refer to Specifica- tions for correct fuel pump pressure.

(e) Test the fuel pump pressure.

the pressure is in excess of recommended pressure (refer to Specifications), replace fuel pump.

(a) Remove and clean the air cleaner.

(b) Disassemble the carburetor. Replace leaking float. Test the float level and correct as necessary, to the proper level.

(d) Test the fuel pump pressure. Refer to specifications for recommended pressure. If pressure is i n excess of recommended pressure, replace the fuel pump assembly.

(e) Disassemble the carburetor. Replace the worn metering jet, using a new jet of the correct size and type.

(a) Throttle must be opened to free choke (a) Instruct owner. system. Best position for all temperatures and all conditions is

open.

(Standard carburetors only.) CAP Car- buretors require special procedures.

(See owner’s manual.)

CHOKE VALVE FAILS

TO CLOSE

(a) Choke thermostat adjustment leaner than specified.

(b) Choke thermostat corroded such that it has cracked and distorted lean.

(c) Choke linkage, shaft or related parts corroded, bent or dirty such that the system is not entirely free to move from the open to the closed position.

(d) Choke valve improperly seated.

(e) Air cleaner interferes with choke shaft

(f) or linkage.

Air cleaner gasket interferes with choke valve or linkage.

(g) Spring staging spring distorted or missing.

(a) Adjust.

(b) Replace assembly.

(d) Reseat valve.

(e) Rotate cleaner to correct position, instruct owner.

(f)

Reinstall gasket properly.

(g) Replace or install new spring.

LOW ENGINE OUTPUT

(10°F or

lower)

(a) Engine lubricating oil of incorrect (a) Recommend

5W-20.

viscosity.

(b) Valve lash incorrect. (b) Readjust.

ENGINE RUNS LEAN, FIRST HALF MILE

CHOKE LEAN

(a) Review items under (Poor Starting). (a) See “Choke Valve Fails to Close.”

(b) Diaphragm adjustment lean. (b) Readjust to specification.

ENGINE RUNS LEAN AFTER HALF MILE

ENGINE HEAT

I NSU FFlCl ENT

(a) Heat valve stuck open.

(b) Heat valve thermostat distorted.

(a) Free with solvent.

(b) Replace thermostat.

( c )

Replace heat valve. fold. See engine section for proper diagnosis.

(d) Water temperature subnormal. (d) Check thermostat.

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14-4 FUEL SYSTEM-WWC3

Condition

CARBURETOR MIX-

TURES LEAN

Possible Cause Correction

(a)

Air leak bypassing the carburetor.

(a) Repair.

(b) Carburetor has economy metering (b) Inform customer. system.

ENGINE RUNS EXCESSIVELY RICH AFTER COLD START

CHOKE SYSTEM RICH

(a) Choke thermostat adjustment richer (a) Correct. than specified.

(b) Choke thermostat distorted rich by (b) Replace, since this problem can be overheating. corrected by use of proper choke assembly.

(d) Choke vacuum passage blocked (d) Correct. or leaking.

CARBURETOR RICH

(a) Incorrect gasket or gasket installation (a) Replace or correct. between carburetor and intake manifold.

EXCESSIVESTALLSAFTERCOLDSTART

CHOKE SYSTEM LEAN

ENGINE OUTPUT LOW

CARBURETOR LEAN

(a) Review items under “Poor Starting-

(b)

Choke Valve Fails to Close.”

Choke vacuum diaphragm adjustment

(b)

Adjust to Specification. lean.

(a) Fast idle speed low.

(b) Fast idle cam position adjustment correct. in-

(a) Adjust to Specification.

(b) Adjust to Specification.

5W-20.

viscosity.

(d)

Incorrect timing.

(d)

Reset timing.

(a) Curb idle set very lean.

(b) Air leak bypassing the carburetor.

(a) Adjust.

(b)

Repair.

W W C 3 SERIES STROMBERG

CARBURETOR

INDEX

Automatic Choke

(well type)

Carburetor Adjustments

General Information

......................

Page

....................

........................

Cleaning Carburetor Parts

Disassembling the Carburetor

..................

...........................

1 Specifications

Inspection and Reassembly

Service Diagnosis

.....................

Page

..............................

.................................

GENERAL INFORMATION

The WWC3 Series Stromberg carburetor is a dual throat downshaft type, with each throat having its own idle system, main metering system and throttle valve. The idle and main-metering systems are sup- plemented by the float system, the accelerating system and the power system.

The WWC3 Series carburetor incorporates an idle system vent, operated from the throttle linkage, a double venturi cluster which in addition to the small venturi also includes the discharge nozzles, the main discharge tubes and the idle in a single assembly.

The Standard Stromberg carburetor model WWC3-

262 is used on the 383 cu. in. engine-automatic transmission equipped vehicles. Special (CAP-Cleaner

Air

Package) Stromberg carburetor model WWC3-263 is used on the 383 cu. in. engine automatic transmission equipped vehicles, and is identified by a dab of green paint on the airhorn, over the top of the accelerator pump shaft.

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VACUUM HOSE

CHOKE OPERATING

ACCELERATOR PUMP

W W C L F U E L SYSTEM 14-5

CHOKE

FUEL INLET FITTING

DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM

ADVANCE TUBE

FITTING

ELEVATING LEGS (SET

NK417

Fig. 1

-Carburetor Assembly W WC3-262 or W WC3-

2 6 3 (Right Side)

FAST IDLE SPEED

ADJUSTING SCREW i

CURB IDLE SPEED

ADJUSTING SCREW

NK418

Fig. 2-Carburetor Assembly WWC3-262 or W W C 3 -

2 6 3 (Left Side)

SERVICE

P

DISASSEMBLING THE CARBURETOR

To disassemble the carburetor for cleaning or overhaul, refer to (Figs. 1 and

2),

then proceed as follows:

(1)

Install the four elevating legs,

Tool T109-287s

in the mounting flange holes in the throttle body.

These legs are used to protect the throttle valves from damage and to provide a suitable base for working.

(2)

Remove the hairpin clip that holds the pump rod in the center of the pump arm. Remove rod from slot and disengage from the throttle lever.

(3)

Remove the hairpin clip that holds the fast idle rod in the fast idle cam. Disengage the rod from cam, then rotate the rod to disengage from choke lever.

(4)

Remove the three short air horn attaching screws, then remove the two long air horn attaching screws. Install the two short screws through the main body into the throttle body to hold the bodies together. (Refer to Fig.

3.)

(5)

Remove the vacuum hose between the carburetor air horn and the vacuum diaphragm.

(6) Remove the clip from the choke operating link and disengage the link from the diaphragm plunger

(stem) and the choke lever. Refer to (Fig.

1).

(7)

Remove the remaining air horn attaching screws, then lift the air horn straight up and away from main body, as shown in (Fig.

3).

Disassembling

the

Air Horn

(1)

Disengage the accelerator pump plunger from the pump arm hook by tilting down and out from

SPRING STAGED

CHOKE ASSEMBLY

SHORT AIR H

INSTALLED HE

NK419

Fig. 3-Removing or lnstulling the Air Horn

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14-6 FUEL SYSTEM-WWC3

ACCELERATOR PUMP PLUNGER

POWER PISTON STEM

Fig. 4-Removing or Installing Accelerator

Pump Plunger

under hook, as shown in (Fig.

4).

Remove the compression spring.

Place the accelerator pump plunger in a jar of clean gasoline or kerosene to prevent the leather from drying out.

(2)

Remove the vacuum power piston from the air horn, using an open end wrench and wood block, as shown in (Fig.

5).

(Exert sufficient pressure cn end of wrench to force piston out of its well in air horn. This assembly is staked in the air horn and care should be used at removal.) Discard the air horn gasket.

(3)

Remove the choke vacuum diaphragm and bracket assembly and place to one side to be cleaned as a special item.

A liquid cleaner may damage the diaphragm material.

(4)

Test the freeness of the choke mechanism in the air horn. The choke shaft must float free to operate correctly. If the choke shaft sticks in the bearing area or appears to be gummed from deposits in the air horn,

thorough cleaning will be required.

Main

Body

(1)

Remove the float fulcrum pin spring, then remove the fuel inlet needle valve, seat and gasket.

(2)

Slide the float baffle up out of its grooves, then

OPEN END WRENCH

PISTON RETAINER STAKED IN

AIR HORN

Fig. 6-Removing or Jnstalling the Venturi Cluster

remove the float and fulcrum pin.

(3)

Remove the venturi cluster attaching screws, then remove the venturi cluster gasket, as shown in

(Fig. 6). Discard the gasket.

(4)

Invert the carburetor main body and drop out the discharge check ball from the discharge passage, refer to (Fig. 6), and the accelerator pump inlet check ball from the pump well.

(5)

Using

T109-73S,

remove the power by-pass jet and gasket, as shown in (Fig.

7).

(6) Using Tool

T109-173,

remove the two main metering jets, as shown in (Figs.

or 8).

(7)

Remove the two air horn screws, used to hold the main and throttle bodies together. Separate the throttle and main bodies, and discard the gasket.

Throttle Body

(1)

Unscrew and remove the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs from the throttle body.

(2)

The carburetor now has been disassembled into three units, namely, the air horn, main body and throttle body and the component parts of each disassembled as far as necessary for cleaning and inspection.

I t is usually not advisable to remove the throttle shaft or valves unless wear or damage necessitates installation of new parts. To install new valves or throttle shaft, refer to Inspection and Reassembly paragraph. Normal throttle shaft clearance i s

.005

CHOKE DIAPHRAGM

ATTACHING SCREWS NK421

Hg. 5-Removing the Vucuum Power Piston

Fig. 7-Removing or Installing the Power By-Pass Jet

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M A I N

METERING

THROTTLE

BODY

WWC3-FUEL SYSTEM

14-7

THROTTLE VALVES

IDLE SPEED ADJUSTING

./SCREW

FAST IDLE SPEED

SCREW

THROTTLE LEVER AND

AFT

POWER

PASS

JET/

NK424

Fig. 8-Removing or Installing the Main Metering Jets inch. If wear is over

.010 inch, install new shaft.

INSPECTION

AND ASSEMBLY

Throttle

Body

(1) Check the throttle shaft for excessive wear in the throttle body. If wear is extreme, it is recommended that the throttle body be replaced, rather than installing a new throttle shaft in the old body.

During manufacture, the location of the idle trans- f er ports and the spark advance control ports to the valves are carefully established for one particular assembly. See (Fig. 9).

If a new shaft should be installed in an old worn throttle body, it would be very unlikely that the original relationship of these ports to the valves would be obtained. Changing the port relationship would ad- versely affect normal car operation between the speeds of 15 and

miles per hour. However, if it has been determined that a new shaft or valves are to be installed, adhere closely to the following instructions:

To install a new throttle shaft or valves, refer to

(Fig. lo), then proceed as follows:

(2)

Mark the valves to be sure each is replaced in the same bore from whence removed

(if replacing throttle shaft only).

(3)

Remove the screws that hold the throttle valves to the shaft. Slide the valves out

shaft and bore.

IDLE TRANSFER SLOTS

IDLE MIXTURE

SCREWS

THROTTLE VALVE

SCREW^

SPANG

Fig. IO-Throttle Body (Exploded View)

CAUTION: These screws are staked on the opposite side and care should be used at removal so as not to break the screws in the shaft.

Remove the staking with a file.

(4)

Slide the throttle shaft and lever out of the throttle body.

( 5 )

Install the new throttle shaft and lever in the throttle body.

The idle speed adiusting screw must be backed off when seating the valves in the following operation.

(6)

Slide the valves down into position. Install

new

screws but do not tighten. Hold the valves in place with the fingers pressing on the high side

valves.

(7)

Tap the valve lightly with a screwdriver to seat in the throttle bores. Holding the valves in this position, tighten the screws securely and stake by squeezing with pliers.

( 8 )

Install the two idle mixture adjusting screws and springs in the throttle body. (The tapered portion must be straight and smooth.) If the tapered portion is grooved or ridged, a new idle mixture adjusting screw should be installed to insure having correct idle mixture control.

DRIVE Pr;</,ATTACHING

POWER BY-PASS JE,T

SCREWS

VENTURI CLUSTER

FULCRUM PIN

FUEL INLET NEEDLE

VALVE SEAT AND G

.-CHECK BALL

ET CHECK BALL

Fig. %Ports in Relation to Throttle Valves

MAIN METERING J

PASSAGE PLUGS

Fig. I I-Main Body (Exploded View)

343

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14-8

FUEL

SYSTEM-WWC3

-t install main body. Install two short screws to secure.

(2)

Install, the main metering jets in the main body.

Tighten securely, using Tool

T-109-173.

Refer to

(Fig.

8).

(3)

Install the power by-pass jet and new gasket.

Tighten securely, using Tool

73598.

Refer to

(Fig.

7).

ACCELERATOR PUMP I F

CHECK

BALL

(3/16 I N C W

- "-

Fig. 12-Installing Accelerator Pump Inlet Check Ball

Fig. 13-Installing the Discharge Check Ball

ldle Mixer Screw Adjustment

Turn the screws

lightly

against their seats, then back off one and a half turns for an approximate setting.

Main

Body

To assemble the main body, refer to (Fig.

ll),

then proceed as follows:

(1) Place a new gasket on the throttle body, then

ACCELERATOR

PUMP PLUNGER

EMITTED FROM THE

PUMP INTAKE PASSAGE

PPROX.

1/2

INCH

THE

BOWL

FUEL

NO FUEL TO BE EMITTED PAST

THE DISCHARGE CHECK BALL NK428

Fig. 14-Testing Accelerator Pump Discharge and

Inlet Check Balls

(3/16

inch) in the pump well, as shown in (Fig.

12).

( 5 )

Install the accelerator pump discharge check ball

(% inch) in the discharge passage, as shown in

(Fig.

13).

Accelerator Pump Test

(1)

Pour clean gasoline into the carburetor bowl approximately

1/2

inch deep. Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the jar of gasoline and slide down in its well. Raise the plunger and press lightly in the plunger shaft to expel the air from the pump passage.

(2)

Using a small clean brass rod, hold the discharge check ball firmly down on its seat. Raise the pump plunger and press downward.

No fuel should be emitted from either the intake or discharge passage, as shown in (Fig.

14).

(3)

If any fuel does emit from either the intake or discharge passages, it indicates the presence of dirt or an imperfect seat. The passages should be recleaned and then thoroughly blown out with compressed air.

Examine the ball seat for signs of damage that would not allow the check ball to seat properly.

(4)

Reinstall the check ball and test again. If still leaking, place a piece of drill rod down on the check ball and rap sharply with a hammer. Remove the old check ball and install a new one. Then retest. (This operation forms a new ball seat in the carburetor casting.)

(5) Install the venturi cluster gasket, then slide the venturi cluster down into position. Install attaching screws and tighten securely. (Refer to Fig.

6.)

Again depress the accelerator plunger. A clear straight stream should emit from each jet orifice. If the streams are not identical (if either one is restricted or diverted), remove venturi cluster and reclean.

After test, pour gasoline from the bowl and remove the pump plunger.

(6)

Check the float for leak or damage. If satisfactory for further service, install in position in the bowl.

(7)

Assemble the fuel inlet needle valve, seat and gasket, then insert in the main body. Tighten securely.

(If the needle valve is ridged or grooved, or badly worn, a new inlet needle valve assembly should be installed.)

Measuring Float Height

The carburetor is equipped with a synthetic rubber-tipped fuel inlet needle.

(1)

Invert the main body so that the weight of the floats only is forcing the needle against the seat.

Be sure hinge pin does not drop out of the float hinge.

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WWC3-FUEL SYSTEM 14-9

RESSURE

’RING

ONLY

Fig. 15-Checking the Float Setting

Hold down with the fulcrum pin spring.

(2)

Using Tool

73725

or a “T” scale, measure the float level, as shown in (Fig.

15).

There should be

5/32

inch from the surface of the fuel bowl to the crown of the float a t the center.

If an adjustment is necessary, remove the float and the fulcrum spring. Bend the lip of the float lever either in or out until the correct setting has been obtained.

CAUTION: Do not attempt to change the setting without removing the float, as the synthetic rubber tip can be compressed sufficiently to cause a false setting, which will affect correct level of fuel in the bowl.

I t is important that the float lip is perpendicular to the needle or slanted not more than

10 degrees away from the needle when the float is set correctly.

Do not bend float lip by forcing float, use

Tool 73605.

(3)

Install the float, then slide the float baffle down into position. Install the fulcrum pin spring.

Assembling the Air Horn

To assemble the air horn, refer to (Fig. l), then proceed as follows:

(1)

Slide the hub lever of spring staged choke onto air horn boss. Insert choke shaft into air horn. Con- nect hub and shaft levers by installing spring (Fig.

1).

The shaft lever arm must be properly positioned between the stop surfaces of the hub lever. Slide the choke valve down into the slot in shaft.

(2)

Hold the choke valve closed, and install new screws.

DO NOT TIGHTEN.

Holding the valve in the closed position, tap gently with a screwdriver, to ten- ter and locate the valve.

(3)

Tighten attaching screws securely, then stake by squeezing with pliers. Reinstall the fast idle lever and secure with lockwasher and nut.

(4)

Remove the accelerator pump plunger from the jar of gasoline. Check the leather. If the leather is hard, cracked, or worn, install a new pump plunger.

(Be sure to flex the leather several times before installing plunger in air horn.)

(5)

Slide the compression spring over plunger shaft, then slide plunger over hook and into position.

Refer to (Fig. 4).

(6)

Install a new air horn gasket, then install the vacuum power piston in air horn. Lock in position by prick punching on the air horn rim. Compress the piston plunger to be sure no binding exists. If the piston sticks or binds enough to hinder smooth operation, install a new piston assembly.

(7)

Install the air horn assembly on the main body, guiding the pump plunger into its well. (Be sure the leather does not curl or fold back.) Install retaining screws and tighten securely. (Refer to Fig.

2.)

The choke valve must be held partially closed while installing the air horn.

(8)

Remove the two short screws holding the main body and throttle body together, refer to (Fig.

3),

and install the air horn. Reinstall the two long screws and tighten securely.

(9) Install the fast idle rod and secure with hairpin clip.

(10)

Install the pump rod and secure with hairpin clip. (Be sure rod is in the center slot of arm, refer to

Fig.

1.)

Work the accelerator pump plunger several times to be sure it operates smoothly.

Choke Vacuum Diaphragm

Inspect the diaphragm vacuum fitting to be sure that the passage is not plugged with foreign material.

Leak check the diaphragm to determine if it has internal leaks. To do this, first depress the stem, then place a finger over the fitting to seal the opening.

Release the stem. If the stem moves more than

1/16

inch in

seconds, the leakage is excessive and the assembly must be replaced.

Install the diaphragm assembly on the air horn as follows:

(1) Assemble to the air horn and tighten the attaching screws securely.

(2)

Install the choke operating link in position between the diaphragm plunger (stem) and the choke lever. Install clip to secure.

Be sure the link is on the proper side of the wire spring. See (Fig. 1.)

(3)

Inspect the rubber hose for cracks before plat- ing it on the correct carburetor fitting. Refer to (Fig.

2).

Do not connect the vacuum hose to the diaphragm fitting until after the vacuum kick adjustment has been made. (See Carburetor Adjustments.)

CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS

Fast

/dle Speed and Cam Position

Adjustment

The fast idle engine speed adjustment should be made on the vehicle, as described in the Fast Idle

Speed Adjustment (On the Car) Paragraph. However, the Fast Idle Cam Position Adjustment can be made on the bench. This adjustment is important to assure that the speeds of each step of the cam, occur a t the proper time during engine warm-up.

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14-10 FUEL SYSTEM-WWC3

CLOSING PRESSURE

NST CHOKE VALVE

CHOKE OPERATING LINK

CLOSING PRESSURE APPLIE

Fig. 17-Checking the Vacuum Kick Setting

ADJUSTING SCREW

ipc"

STEP A N D AGAINST FACE

HIGHEST CAM STEP NK430

Fig. 16-Fast Idle Cam Position Adjustment

To make the fast idle cam position adjustment refer to (Fig. 16), then proceed as follows:

(1)

With the fast idle speed adjusting screw contacting the step on the fast idle cam shown in (Fig.

17), move the choke valve toward the closed position with light pressure. Insert a Number

drill between the choke valve and the wall of the air horn.

(2)

An adjustment will be necessary if a slight drag is not obtained as the drill is being removed.

(3)

If an adjustment is necessary, bend the fast idle rod at the upper angle, using Tool T109-213, until the correct valve opening has been obtained.

Vacuum

Kick

Adjustment-(This

test can be made

OFF

the vehicle.)

The choke diaphragm adjustment controls the fuel delivery while the engine is running. It positions the choke valve within the airhorn by action of the linkage between the choke shaft and the diaphragm. The diaphragm must be energized to measure the vacuum kick adjustment. Use either a distributor test machine with a vacuum source, or vacuum supplied by another vehicle.

OF VACUUM

NK432

Fig. 18-Choke Operating Link Measurement

(1) With the engine

Not

running, open the throttle valves far enough to allow the choke valve to be moved to the closed position.

(2)

Disconnect the vacuum hose from the diaphragm and connect the hose from the vacuum supply, as shown in (Fig. 17). (A minimum of 10 inches of mercury (HG) will be required.)

(3)

Insert a Number

drill (CAP Carburetors) or a

Number

drill (Standard Carburetors) between the choke valve and the wall of the air horn. Refer to (Fig.

17). Apply sufficient closing pressure on the choke shaft lever to provide the smallest opening possible, without distortion of the diaphragm link. Note that the link must deflect a wire spring before it reaches the end of travel within the lever slot. The link must travel to the end of the slot for proper measurement of the kick adjustment.

(4)

An adjustment will be necessary if a slight drag is not obtained as the drill or gauge is being removed.

The adjustment of this opening will require the removal of the choke operating link.

CAUTION: Damage to the diaphragm and the choke lever slot can result, if the link i s not removed for the bending operation.

(5)

Remove the clip and disengage the choke operating link from the choke lever, then disengage the link from the diaphragm stem. (The best bending results will be obtained by using a vise and a pair of pliers.)

(6)

Bend the choke operating link at the angle to provide the correct choke valve opening.

CAUTION: A correction in the length of the link of

.010 inch, will result in a change of

.010 inch in the choke valve opening.

an example, if the choke valve opening is .010 inch in error, the correction in the link length would be .010 inch.

micrometer will be helpful in establishing the original length of the link, as shown in (Fig.

18),

before completing the adjustment.

(7) Install the choke operating link and recheck the choke valve opening, using a gauge or drill. Refer to

(Fig. 17).

Reinstall the vacuum hose to the diaphragm and make the following check:

(8)

With no vacuum applied to the diaphragm, some clearance should exist between the choke oper-

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WWC3-FUEL SYSTEM 14-11

OTTLE

FROM

FULLY

CLOSED

TO WIDE CHOKE VALVE

FULLY CLOSED

Fig. 19-Choke Operating Link Clearances

ating link and the choke lever slot, in both the open and closed choke valve positions, as shown in (Fig. 19).

This clearance i s necessary to allow the choke valve to close for starting as well as fully open after the engine reaches the normal operating temperature.

If a clearance does not exist in both of these positions, a recheck of the operating link adjustment should be made.

Free movement of the choke valve between the closed and open positions is very necessary.

This free movement should also exist between the kick and the open choke valve positions with the engine running. If binding does exist, the choke operating link has been improperly bent and should be corrected.

Unloader Adjustment (Wide Open Kick)

To make the unloaded adjustment, refer to (Fig.

20), then proceed as follows:

(1) Lightly hold the choke valve closed, then open the throttle valves to the wide open position. The

SPECIAL GAUGE OR

DRILL AT WIDEST

CHOKE OPENING

AGAINST CHOKE VALVE

%"--

i435

Fig. 21-Accelerator Pump Travel

choke valve should open sufficiently to allow a 15/64 inch drill or gauge T109-32 to be inserted between the choke valve and the wall of the air horn as shown.

(2) To adjust, bend the tang on the throttle lever, using Tool T109-214 until correct opening has been obtained.

(3) Hold the choke valve open and then open and close the throttle valves. Failure to obtain full throttle operation indicates improper assembly or adjustment of the choke mechanism.

(4) With the throttle valves held in an open position, the choke valve should fall open freely. There should be no bind throughout the entire travel of the choke mechanism.

Accelerator Pump Travel

To check the accelerator pump travel, refer to (Fig.

21), then proceed as follows:

(1) With the throttle valves fully closed, measure the pump travel from the fully closed to the fully open throttle.

(2) This travel should be

7/16 inch

shown.

(3)

If an adjustment is necessary, bend the pump rod at the point shown, using Tool T109-213, until correct travel has been obtained.

GAUGE INSERTE

VALVE AND S

LVE WIDE OPEN

FAST IDLE CAM

THROTTLE LEVER

HELD IN WIDE

OPEN POSITION

BEND TANG AT'

THIS POINT

N K434

Fig.

20-Choke Unloader Adjustment (Wide

Open Kick) Fig. 22-Checking the Bowl Vent Valve Opening

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14-12 FUEL SYSTEM-WWC3

CHOKE VALV

SPEED STEP OF

THE

CAM

NK437A

STEP OF THE CAM

CAP

CARBURETOR NN708

Fig. 23-Fast Idle Speed Adjustment (On the Engine)

Bowl Vent Valve Setting

To make the bowl vent valve setting, refer to (Fig.

22),

then proceed as follows:

This setting is made after the pump travel setting.

(1)

With the throttle valves a t curb idle, there should be

1/16

inch clearance between the bowl vent valve and the air horn, when measured (at the center of the vent valve and the seat) with a gauge or drill shank.

(2)

If an adjustment is necessary, bend the bowl vent lever, using Tool

T109-214,

until correct opening has been obtained.

Any adjustment to the accelerator pump setting, means that the bowl vent must be readjusted.

idle Speed Adjustment

(Standard Carburetors)

The idle speed adjustment is made after the carburetor has been installed on the engine.

For the best results, it is recommended that a tachometer be used in this adjustment.

(1)

Turn the idle speed screw in or out to obtain

500 rpm. (On vehicles with air conditioning, set the idle speed at

500 rpm, with air conditioning ON.) Be sure the choke valve is fully open and that the fast idle adjusting screw is not contacting the fast idle cam (engine off fast idle).

(2)

Turn 'each idle mixture screw

out

until smooth idle has been obtained.

(3)

Readjust to

500

rpm with the idle speed screw.

(4)

Repeat the idle mixture screw adjustment.

Fast ldle Speed Adjustment*

(On the Vehicle)

To set the fast idle speed on the vehicle, connect a tachometer to the vehicle, then set the curb idle speed and proceed as follows:

(1)

With the engine running and the transmission in the neutral position, open the throttle slightly.

(2)

On Standard carburetors,

close the choke valve about 20 degrees, then allow throttle to close. Return choke valve to the open position. The fast idle speed adjusting screw should contact the slowest speed step on the fast idle cam (Fig.

23).

(3)

On CAP carburetors,

open the throttle until the fast idle screw can be positioned on the second highest step of the cam (Fig.

23).

The air cleaner must be installed while measuring the engine speed.

(4)

With the engine warmed up to the normal operating temperature, turn the fast idle speed adjusting screw in or out to secure

700

rpm (Standard carburetors) or

1300

rpm (CAP carburetors).*

Reposition the cam and throttle after every screw adjustment to apply normal throttle closing torque.

After Approx. 500 Miles (If Necessary).

*Special Note: CAP Equipped Vehicles

Before adjusting idle and/or fast idle speeds and mixtures, make sure that the basic timing and the distributor control valve are correctly adjusted as outlined under Idle Speed Adjustment (Curb Idle) CAP

Carburetors.

Measuring the Float Setting or

Fuel Level (On the Vehicle)

Remove the three short air horn to main body attaching screws. Then remove one long air horn to throttle body screw next to fuel bowl and assemble short screw through main body flange and thread into the throttle body. Remove long screw from side away from fuel bowl and on opposite side and assemble short screw through main body flange. Securely tighten. Remove the air horn as follows:

(1)

Remove the spring clip and disconnect the choke operating rod.

(2)

Remove the hairpin clip and disconnect the fast idle rod.

(3)

Remove the hairpin clip that holds the pump rod in the center slot of the pump arm. Disconnect the pump rod.

(4)

Remove the remaining two long screws and lift off the air horn.

Check the float setting as follows:

( 5 )

Seat the float fulcrum pin by pressing finger against the fulcrum pin spring.

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Fig. 24-Spring Staged Choke Clearance

There should be enough fuel in the bowl to raise the float so that the lip bears firmly against the needle. Additional fuel may be admitted by slightly depressing the float. If the pressure in the line is insufficient to force additional fuel into the bowl, add the necessary fuel from a clean container.

CAUTION: Since the manifolds may be hot, it is dangerous to spill onto these surfaces. Therefore, take the necessary precautions to avoid spillage.

(6)

With only the pressure from the buoyant float holding the lip against the inlet needle, check the float setting, using Tool

73725

or “T” scale. There should be

5/32

inch from the surface of the bowl

(gasket removed) to the top of the float at the center.

If an adjustment is necessary, hold the float on the bottom of the bowl, then bend the float lip toward or away from the needle, using Tool

73605.

Recheck the

5/32

inch setting again, then repeat the lip bending operation as required.

CAUTION: When bending the float lip, do not allow the lip to push against the needle as the rubber tip can be compressed sufficiently to cause a false setting which will affect correct level of fuel in the bowl.

After being compressed, the rubber tip i s very slow to recover its original shape.

It is very important that the float lip be perpendicular to the needle or slanted not more than 10 degrees away from the needle when the float is set correctly.

(7)

Reassemble the air horn.

Spring Staged Choke Adjustment

The new spring staged choke, shown in (Fig.

24)

is a device incorporated in the choke mechanism which limits the choke blade closing torque when cranking the engine at temperatures below zero. Thus the spring staging of the choke is a better match for the engine’s starting mixture requirements at the low temperatures.

To check the spring staged choke for correct operating clearance, refer to (Fig.

24),

then proceed as follows:

WWC3-FUEL SYSTEM 14-13

(1)

Push on the hub lever with the finger, at the closed choke position.

small opening should exist between the shaft and the hub levers, as shown in

(Fig.

24).

(2)

Using a drill or gauge, measure the opening.

The opening should be from

.010

.040

inches.

(3)

If an adjustment is necessary, bend the hub lever tang until the correct opening has been obtained.

Idle Speed Adjustment (Curb

Idle) <