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Welcome to the
1997 Stratus
(RHD & LHD)
Interactive Electronic Service Manual!
CLICK ON VEHICLE TO BEGIN
tweddle litho: dom parts cdrom demo 09/96 page 1 <output:0908 ET 05/27/97>
JA
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0 - 1
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
CONTENTS page
GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
JUMP STARTING, HOISTING AND TOWING . . . 7
page
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
GENERAL INFORMATION
INDEX
page
GENERAL INFORMATION
CLASSIFICATION OF LUBRICANTS . . . . . . . . . . 1
FLUID CAPACITIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 page
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
PARTS AND LUBRICANT RECOMMENDATIONS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS
Chrysler Corporation uses international symbols to identify engine compartment lubricant and fluid inspection and fill locations (Fig. 1).
GENERAL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION
Service and maintenance procedures for components and systems listed in Schedule—A or B can be found by using the Group Tab Locator index at the front of this manual. If it is not clear which group contains the information needed, refer to the index at the back of this manual.
There are two maintenance schedules that show proper service based on the conditions that the vehicle is subjected to.
Schedule— A , lists scheduled maintenance to be performed when the vehicle is used for general transportation.
Schedule— B , lists maintenance intervals for vehicles that are operated under the conditions listed at the beginning of the Maintenance Schedule section.
Use the schedule that best describes your driving conditions.
Where time and mileage are listed, follow the interval that occurs first.
PARTS AND LUBRICANT RECOMMENDATIONS
When service is required, Chrysler Corporation recommends that only Mopar t brand parts, lubricants and chemicals be used. Mopar provides the best engineered products for servicing Chrysler Corporation vehicles.
Fig. 1 International Symbols
CLASSIFICATION OF LUBRICANTS
Only lubricants that are endorsed by the following organization should be used to service a Chrysler
Corporation vehicle.
• Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE)
• American Petroleum Institute (API) (Fig. 2)
• National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI)
(Fig. 3)
0 - 2 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
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Wheel bearing lubricant is identified by the letter
“G”. Chassis lubricant is identified by the latter “L”.
The letter following the usage letter indicates the quality of the lubricant. The following symbols indicate the highest quality.
Fig. 2 API Symbol
ENGINE OIL
SAE GRADE RATING INDICATES ENGINE OIL VISCOSITY
An SAE viscosity grade is used to specify the viscosity of engine oil. SAE 30 specifies a single viscosity engine oil.
Engine oils also have multiple viscosities. These are specified with a dual SAE viscosity grade which indicates the cold-to-hot temperature viscosity range.
• SAE 30 = single grade engine oil.
• SAE 10W-30 = multiple grade engine oil.
API QUALITY CLASSIFICATION
The API Service Grade specifies the type of performance the engine oil is intended to provide. The API
Service Grade specifications also apply to energy conserving engine oils.
Use engine oils that are API Service Certified.
5W-30 and 10W-30 MOPAR engine oils conform to specifications.
Refer to Group 9, Engine for engine oil specification.
GEAR LUBRICANTS
SAE ratings also apply to multiple grade gear lubricants. In addition, API classification defines the lubricants usage.
LUBRICANTS AND GREASES
Lubricating grease is rated for quality and usage by the NLGI. All approved products have the NLGI symbol (Fig. 3) on the label. At the bottom NLGI symbol is the usage and quality identification letters.
Fig. 3 NLGI Symbol
FLUID CAPACITIES
FUEL TANK
All . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60.5 L (16.0 gal.)
ENGINE OIL—WITH FILTER
2.0L, 2.5L V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.25 L (4.5 qts.)
2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.7 L (5.0 qts.)
ENGINE OIL—WITHOUT FILTER
2.0L, 2.5L V6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.8 L (4.0 qts.)
2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.3 L (4.5 qts.)
COOLING SYSTEM
2.0 L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.1 L (8.5 qts.)
2.4 L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5 L (9.0 qts.)
2.5 L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.9 L (10.5 qts.)
AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE
Estimated Service Fill . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.8 L (4.0 qts.)
Overhaul Fill Capacity with Torque Converter Empty
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.6 L (9.1 qts.)
MANUAL TRANSAXLE
NV T350 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.1 L (2.2 qts.)
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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0 - 3
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES
INDEX
page
GENERAL INFORMATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 page
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
UNSCHEDULED INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
GENERAL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION
There are two maintenance schedules that show the proper service for Chrysler vehicles. Use the schedule that best describes the conditions under which the vehicle is operated. Where time and mileage are listed, follow the interval that occurs first.
Schedule—A lists all the scheduled maintenance to be performed under “normal” operating conditions.
Schedule—B is a schedule for vehicles that are operated under one or more of the following conditions:
•
Day and night temperatures are below freezing.
•
Stop and go driving.
•
Long periods of engine idling.
• Driving in dusty conditions.
• Short trips of less than 5 miles.
• Operation at sustained high speeds during hot weather, above 90°F (32°C).
• Taxi, police or delivery service.
• Trailer towing or heavy hauling.
EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM MAINTENANCE
The scheduled emission maintenance listed in bold
type in the Maintenance Schedules must be done at the specified mileage to assure the continued proper functioning of the emission control system. These, and all other maintenance services included in this manual, should be done to provide the best vehicle performance and reliability. More frequent maintenance may be needed for vehicles in severe operating conditions such as dusty areas and very short trip driving.
UNSCHEDULED INSPECTION
At Each Stop For Fuel
• Check engine oil level, add as required.
• Check windshield washer solvent and add if required.
Once A Month
• Check tire pressure and look for unusual wear or damage.
• Check fluid levels of coolant reservoir, power steering and automatic transmission and add as required.
• Check all lights and all other electrical items for correct operation.
At Each Oil Change
• Inspect exhaust system.
• Inspect brake hoses.
• Inspect the CV joints and front suspension components.
• Rotate the tires at each oil change interval shown on Schedule—A (7,500 miles – 12 000 km) or every other interval shown on schedule—B (6,000 miles – 10 000 km).
• Check coolant level, hoses and clamps.
• Check the manual transaxle fluid level.
• If the mileage is less than 7,500 miles (12 000 km) yearly, replace the engine oil filter at each oil change.
SCHEDULE—A
7,500 Miles (12 000 km) or at 6 months
•
Change engine oil.
•
Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
15,000 Miles (24 000 km) or at 12 months
• Change engine oil.
•
Replace engine oil filter.
•
Adjust drive belt tension.
22,500 Miles (36 000 km) or at 18 months
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
•
Inspect the front brake pads and rear brake linings.
30,000 Miles (48 000 km) or at 24 months
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
•
Lubricate front and rear suspension ball joints.
•
Adjust drive belt tension.
0 - 4 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
• Replace air cleaner element.
• Replace spark plugs on 2.0L and 2.4L
engines.
37,500 Miles (60 000 km) or at 30 months
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
45,000 Miles (72 000 km) or at 36 months
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Inspect front brake pads and rear brake linings.
• Adjust drive belt tension.
• Flush and replace engine coolant at 36 months, regardless of mileage.
52,500 Miles (84 000 km) or at 42 months
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
• Flush and replace engine coolant if not done at
36 months, regardless of mileage.
60,000 Miles (96 000 km) or at 48 months
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Check and replace, if necessary***, the
PCV valve.**
• Lubricate front and rear suspension upper ball joints.
• Replace drive belts.
• Replace air cleaner element.
• Replace ignition cables on 2.0 liter and 2.4
liter engines.
• Replace spark plugs on 2.0L and 2.4L
engines.
67,500 Miles (108 000 km) or at 54 months
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
• Inspect front brake pads and rear brake linings.
75,000 Miles (120 000 km) or at 60 months
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Adjust drive belt tension.
• Flush and replace engine coolant if it has been
30,000 miles (48 000 km) or 24 months since last change.
82,500 Miles (132 000 km) or at 66 months
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
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• Flush and replace engine coolant if it has been
30,000 miles (48 000 km) or 24 months since last change.
90,000 Miles (144 000 km) or at 72 months
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Check and replace, if necessary***, the
PCV valve.**
• Lubricate front and rear suspension upper ball joints.
• Inspect front brake pads and rear brake linings.
• Adjust drive belt tension.
• Replace air cleaner air cleaner element.
• Replace spark plugs on 2.0L and 2.4L
engines.
97,500 Miles (156 000 km) or at 78 months
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
100,000 Miles (160 000km)
• Replace spark plugs and ignition cables on
2.5L engines.
105,000 Miles (168 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Replace engine timing belt on 2.0 liter and
2.4 liter California vehicles.
SCHEDULE—B
3,000 Miles (5 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
6,000 Miles (10 000 km)
• Change engine oil
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
9,000 Miles (14 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
12,000 Miles (19 000 km)
• Change engine oil
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Inspect front brake pads and rear brake linings.
15,000 Miles (24 000 km)
• Change engine oil
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
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GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
• Adjust drive belt tension.
• Change automatic transaxle fluid and filter.*
18,000 Miles (29 000 km)
• Change engine oil
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
21,000 Miles (34 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
24,000 Miles (38 000 km)
• Change engine oil
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Inspect front brake pads and rear brake linings.
27,000 Miles (43 000 km)
• Change engine oil
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
30,000 Miles (48 000 km)
•
Change engine oil
•
Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Check and replace, if necessary, the PCV valve.**
• Lubricate front and rear suspension upper ball joints.
• Adjust drive belt tension.
• Replace air cleaner element.
• Replace spark plugs on 2.0L and 2.4L
engines.
• Change automatic transmission fluid and filter.*
33,000 Miles (53 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
36,000 Miles (58 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Flush and replace engine coolant.
• Inspect front brake pads and rear brake linings.
39,000 Miles (62 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
42,000 Miles (67 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
45,000 Miles (72 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0 - 5
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
• Adjust drive belt tension.
• Change automatic transaxle fluid and filter.*
48,000 Miles (77 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Inspect front brake pads and rear brake linings.
51,000 Miles (82 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
• Flush and replace engine coolant.
54,000 Miles (86 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
57,000 Miles (91 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
60,000 Miles (96 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Check and replace, if necessary***, the
PCV valve.**
• Lubricate front and rear suspension upper ball joints.
• Replace drive belts.
• Replace air cleaner element.
• Replace ignition cables on 2.0 liter and 2.4
liter engines.
• Replace spark plugs on 2.0 liter and 2.4
liter engines.
• Change automatic transaxle fluid and filter.*
• Inspect front brake pads and rear brake linings.
63,000 Miles (101 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
66,000 Miles (106 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
69,000 Miles (110 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
0 - 6 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
72,000 Miles (115 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Inspect front brake pads and rear brake linings.
75,000 Miles (120 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
• Adjust drive belt tension.
• Replace the spark plugs and ignition cables on 2.5 liter engines.
• Change automatic transaxle fluid and filter.*
78,000 Miles (125 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
81,000 Miles (130 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
• Flush and replace the engine coolant.
84,000 Miles (134 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Inspect front brake pads and rear brake linings.
87,000 Miles (139 000 km)
•
Change engine oil.
• Replace engines oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4
liter engines.
90,000 Miles (144 000 km)
•
Change engine oil.
•
Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Check and replace, if necessary***, the
PCV valve.**
• Lubricate front and rear suspension upper ball joints.
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• Adjust drive belt tension.
• Replace air cleaner element.
• Replace spark plugs on 2.0 liter and 2.4
liter engines.
• Change automatic transaxle fluid and filter.*
93,000 Miles (149 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
96,000 Miles (154 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Inspect front brake pads and rear brake linings.
99,000 Miles (158 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on 2.0 liter and 2.4 liter engines.
105,000 (168 000 km)
• Change engine oil.
• Replace engine oil filter on all engines.
• Replace the engine timing belt on 2.0 liter and 2.5 liter engines.
NOTE: * Police, taxi, or delivery service usage and trailer towing requires the more frequent transaxle service indicated with a * in schedule - B. Perform these services if you usually operate your vehicle under these conditions.
NOTE: **This maintenance is recommended by
Chrysler to the owner but is not required to maintain the warranty on the PCV valve.
NOTE: ***This maintenance is not required if the
PCV valve was previously replaced.
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LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0 - 7
JUMP STARTING, HOISTING AND TOWING
INDEX
page
SERVICE PROCEDURES
. . . . . . . . . . . 8 page
JUMP STARTING PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
TOWING RECOMMENDATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
SERVICE PROCEDURES
JUMP STARTING PROCEDURE
WARNING: REVIEW ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
AND WARNINGS IN GROUP 8A, BATTERY/START-
ING/CHARGING SYSTEMS DIAGNOSTICS. DO NOT
JUMP START A FROZEN BATTERY, PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT. DO NOT JUMP START WHEN
MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY INDICATOR DOT IS
YELLOW OR BRIGHT COLOR. DO NOT JUMP
START A VEHICLE WHEN THE BATTERY FLUID IS
BELOW THE TOP OF LEAD PLATES. DO NOT
ALLOW JUMPER CABLE CLAMPS TO TOUCH
EACH OTHER WHEN CONNECTED TO A BOOSTER
SOURCE. DO NOT USE OPEN FLAME NEAR BAT-
TERY. REMOVE METALLIC JEWELRY WORN ON
HANDS OR WRISTS TO AVOID INJURY BY ACCI-
DENTAL ARCING OF BATTERY CURRENT. WHEN
USING A HIGH OUTPUT BOOSTING DEVICE, DO
NOT ALLOW BATTERY VOLTAGE TO EXCEED 16
VOLTS.
REFER TO INSTRUCTIONS PROVIDED
WITH DEVICE BEING USED.
the automatic transmission in PARK or the manual transmission in NEUTRAL and turn the ignition
OFF.
(3) On disabled vehicle, place gear selector in park or neutral and set park brake. Turn off all accessories.
(4) Connect jumper cables to booster battery. RED clamp to positive terminal (+). BLACK clamp to negative terminal (-). DO NOT allow clamps at opposite end of cables to touch, electrical arc will result.
Review all warnings in this procedure.
(5) On disabled vehicle, connect RED jumper cable clamp to positive (+) terminal. Connect BLACK jumper cable clamp to engine ground as close to the ground cable attaching point as possible (Fig. 1).
(6) Start the engine in the vehicle which has the booster battery, let the engine idle a few minutes, then start the engine in the vehicle with the discharged battery.
CAUTION: When using another vehicle as a booster, do not allow vehicles to touch. Electrical systems can be damaged on either vehicle.
TO JUMP START A DISABLED VEHICLE:
(1) Raise hood on disabled vehicle and visually inspect engine compartment for:
• Battery cable clamp condition, clean if necessary.
• Frozen battery.
• Yellow or bright color test indicator, if equipped.
• Low battery fluid level.
• Generator drive belt condition and tension.
•
Fuel fumes or leakage, correct if necessary.
CAUTION: If the cause of starting problem on disabled vehicle is severe, damage to booster vehicle charging system can result.
(2) When using another vehicle as a booster source, park the booster vehicle within cable reach.
Turn off all accessories, set the parking brake, place
Fig. 1 Jumper Cable Clamp Connections
CAUTION: Do not crank starter motor on disabled vehicle for more than 15 seconds, starter will overheat and could fail.
(7) Allow battery in disabled vehicle to charge to at least 12.4 volts (75% charge) before attempting to start engine. If engine does not start within 15 seconds, stop cranking engine and allow starter to cool
(15 min.), before cranking again.
DRIVE ON LIFT
FRAME CONTACT LIFT (SINGLE POST)
0 - 8
CHASSIS LIFT (DUAL POST)
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
FLOOR JACK
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
DISCONNECT CABLE CLAMPS AS FOLLOWS:
• Disconnect BLACK cable clamp from engine ground on disabled vehicle.
• When using a Booster vehicle, disconnect
BLACK cable clamp from battery negative terminal.
Disconnect RED cable clamp from battery positive terminal.
• Disconnect RED cable clamp from battery positive terminal on disabled vehicle.
HOISTING RECOMMENDATIONS
Refer to Owner’s Manual provided with vehicle for proper emergency jacking procedures.
WARNING: THE HOISTING AND JACK LIFTING
POINTS PROVIDED ARE FOR A COMPLETE VEHI-
CLE. WHEN THE ENGINE OR REAR SUSPENSION
IS REMOVED FROM A VEHICLE, THE CENTER OF
GRAVITY IS ALTERED MAKING SOME HOISTING
CONDITIONS UNSTABLE. PROPERLY SUPPORT OR
SECURE VEHICLE TO HOISTING DEVICE WHEN
THESE CONDITIONS EXIST.
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TOWING RECOMMENDATIONS
RECOMMENDED TOWING EQUIPMENT
To avoid damage to bumper fascia and air dams use of a flat bed towing device or wheel lift (Fig. 3) is recommended. When using a wheel lift towing device, be sure the unlifted end of disabled vehicle has at least 100 mm (4 in.) ground clearance. If minimum ground clearance cannot be reached, use a towing dolly. If a flat bed device is used, the approach angle should not exceed 15 degrees.
CAUTION: Do not position hoisting device on suspension components, damage to vehicle can result.
Fig. 3 Recommended Towing Equipment
GROUND CLEARANCE
CAUTION: If vehicle is towed with wheels removed, install lug nuts to retain brake drums or rotors.
A towed vehicle should be raised until the lifted wheels are a minimum 100 mm (4 in.) from the ground. Be sure there is at least 100 mm (4 in.) clearance between the tail pipe and the ground. If necessary, remove the wheels from the lifted end of the vehicle and lower the vehicle closer to the ground, to increase the ground clearance at the rear of the vehicle. Install lug nuts on wheel attaching studs to retain brake drums or rotors.
LOCKED VEHICLE TOWING
When a locked vehicle must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, use a towing dolly or flat bed hauler.
FLAT TOWING WITH TOW BAR
• 3-speed automatic transaxle vehicles can be flat towed at speeds not to exceed 40 km/h (25 mph) for not more than 25 km (15 miles). The steering column must be unlocked and gear selector in neutral.
• 5-speed manual transaxle vehicles can be flat towed at any legal highway speed for extended distances. The gear selector must be in the neutral position.
Fig. 2 Hoisting And Jacking Points
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SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
WARNINGS AND PRECAUTIONS
WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW TOWING ATTACH-
MENT DEVICES TO CONTACT THE FUEL TANK OR
LINES, FUEL LEAK CAN RESULT. DO NOT LIFT OR
TOW VEHICLE BY FRONT OR REAR BUMPER, OR
BUMPER ENERGY ABSORBER UNITS. DO NOT
VENTURE UNDER A LIFTED VEHICLE IF NOT SUP-
PORTED PROPERLY ON SAFETY STANDS. DO NOT
ALLOW PASSENGERS TO RIDE IN A TOWED VEHI-
CLE. USE A SAFETY CHAIN THAT IS INDEPENDENT
FROM THE TOWING ATTACHMENT DEVICE.
CAUTION: Do not damage brake lines, exhaust system, shock absorbers, sway bars, or any other under vehicle components when attaching towing device to vehicle. Do not attach towing device to front or rear suspension components. Do not secure vehicle to towing device by the use of front or rear suspension or steering components.
Remove or secure loose or protruding objects from a damaged vehicle before towing. Refer to state and local rules and regulations before towing a vehicle.
Do not allow weight of towed vehicle to bear on lower fascia, air dams, or spoilers.
FLAT BED TOWING TIE DOWNS
CAUTION: Do not tie vehicle down by attaching chains or cables to suspension components or engine mounts, damage to vehicle can result.
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0 - 9
JA vehicles can be tied to a flat bed device using the reinforced loops located under the front and rear bumpers on the drivers side of the vehicle. There are also four reinforced elongated holes for T or R-hooks located on the bottom of the front frame rail torque boxes behind the front wheels and forward of the rear wheels inboard of the rocker panel weld seam.
TOWING—FRONT WHEEL LIFT
Chrysler Corporation recommends that a vehicle be towed with the front end lifted, whenever possible. A
90 cm (36 in.) length of 4x4 wood beam can be placed between the wheel lift device and the bottom of the fascia to prevent damage to vehicle during the lifting operation. The beam can removed after lifting the front of the vehicle.
TOWING—REAR WHEEL LIFT
If a vehicle cannot be towed with the front wheels lifted, the rear wheels can be lifted provided the following guide lines are observed.
CAUTION: Do not use steering column lock to secure steering wheel during towing operation.
• Unlock steering column and secure steering wheel in straight ahead position with a clamp device designed for towing.
• Place front wheels on a towing dolly.
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SUSPENSION 2 - 1
SUSPENSION
CONTENTS page
FRONT SUSPENSION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
REAR SUSPENSION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
page
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
INDEX
page
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
WHEEL ALIGNMENT INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . 1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
PRE-WHEEL ALIGNMENT INSPECTION
. . . . . . 4
SUSPENSION AND STEERING DIAGNOSIS
. . . 3 page
SERVICE PROCEDURES
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
SPECIFICATIONS
VEHICLE ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS AT
CURB HEIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
WHEEL ALIGNMENT INFORMATION
Proper vehicle wheel alignment is the proper adjustment of all interrelated front and rear suspension angles (Fig. 1). These angles are what affects the handling and steering of the vehicle when it is in motion.
The method of checking a vehicle’s front and rear wheel alignment will vary depending on the type and manufacturer of the equipment being used. Instructions furnished by the manufacturer of the equipment being used should always be followed to ensure accuracy of the alignment, except alignment specifications recommended by Chrysler Corporation
MUST ALWAYS be used.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to modify any suspension or steering components by heating or bending of the component.
Wheel alignment adjustments should always be made in the following sequence, to ensure that an accurate alignment is performed.
(1) Adjust rear camber to be at the prefered setting specification.
(2) Adjust rear wheel Toe to be at the prefered setting specification..
(3) Adjust front wheel Toe to be at the prefered setting specification for individual wheel Toe and for total Toe.
(4) Toe is measured in degrees or inches and is the distance that the front edges of the tires are closer (or farther apart) than the rear edges (Fig. 1).
See Front Wheel Drive Specifications for correct front and rear wheel Toe specifications.
(5) Thrust Angle is defined as the average of the
Toe settings on each rear wheel. If this measurement is out of specification, re-adjust rear wheel Toe so that each wheel has 1/2 of the total Toe measurement. When re-adjusting, do not exceed the total Toe specification.
FRONT
TOE IN
2 - 2 SUSPENSION
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
NEGATIVE CAMBER POSITIVE
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Fig. 1 Alignment Camber/Toe
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SUSPENSION 2 - 3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
SUSPENSION AND STEERING DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION
Front End Whine On Turns
POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Defective Wheel Bearing
2. Incorrect Wheel Alignment
3. Worn Tires
Front End Growl Or Grinding On Turns 1. Defective Wheel Bearing
2. Engine Mount Grounding
Against Frame Or Body Of Vehicle.
3. Worn Or Broken C/V Joint
4. Loose Wheel Lug Nuts
5. Incorrect Wheel Alignment
6. Worn Tires
Front End Clunk Or Snap On Turns 1. Loose Wheel Lug Nuts
2. Worn Or Broken C/V Joint
3. Worn Or Loose Tie Rod Or Ball Joint
4. Worn Control Arm Bushing
5. Loose Sway Bar Or Upper Strut
Attachment
1. Defective Wheel Bearing Front End Whine With Vehicle Going
Straight At A Constant Speed
2. Incorrect Wheel Alignment
3. Worn Tires
1. Engine Mount Grounding Front End Growl Or Grinding With
Vehicle Going Straight At A Constant
Speed
Front End Whine When Accelerating
Or Decelerating
Front End Clunk When Accelerating Or
Decelerating
2. Worn Or Broken C/V Joint
1. Worn Or Defective Transaxle Gears
Or Bearings
1. Worn Or Broken Engine Mount
2. Worn Or Defective Transaxle Gears
Or Bearings
3. Loose Wheel Lug Nuts
4. Worn Or Broken C/V Joint
5. Worn Or Loose Ball Joint
6. Worn Or Loose Control Arm Bushing
7. Loose Crossmember Bolts
Road Wander 1. Incorrect Tire Pressure
2. Incorrect Front Or Rear Wheel Toe
3. Worn Wheel Bearings
4. Worn Control Arm Bushings
5. Excessive Friction In Steering Gear
6. Excessive Friction In Steering Shaft
Coupling
7. Excessive Friction In Strut Upper
Bearing
POTENTIAL CORRECTIONS
1. Replace Wheel Bearing
2. Check And Reset Wheel Alignment
3. Replace Tires
1. Replace Wheel Bearing
2. Check For Motor Mount Hitting Frame
Rail And Reposition Engine As Required
3. Replace C/V Joint
4. Verify Wheel Lug Nut Torque
5. Check And Reset Wheel Alignment
6. Replace Tires
1. Verify Wheel Lug Nut Torque
2. Replace C/V Joint
3. Tighten Or Replace Tie Rod End Or
Ball Joint
4. Replace Control Arm Bushing
5. Tighten Sway Bar Or Upper Strut
Attachment To Specified Torque
1. Replace Wheel Bearing
2. Check And Reset Wheel Alignment
3. Replace Tires
1. Reposition Engine As Required
2. Replace C/V Joint
1. Replace Transaxle Gears Or Bearings
1. Replace Engine Mount
2. Replace Transaxle Gears Or Bearings
3. Verify Wheel Lug Nut Torque
4. Replace C/V Joint
5. Tighten Or Replace Ball Joint
6. Tighten To Specified Torque Or
Replace Control Arm Bushing
7. Tighten Crossmember Bolts To
Specified Torque
1. Inflate Tires To Rcommended
Pressure
2. Check And Reset Front Wheel Toe
3. Replace Wheel Bearing
4. Replace Control Arm Bushing
5. Replace Steering Gear
6. Replace Steering Coupler
7. Replace Strut Bearing
2 - 4 SUSPENSION
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
Lateral Pull
CONDITION
Excessive Steering Free Play
Excessive Steering Effort
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POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Unequal Tire Pressure
2. Radial Tire Lead
3. Incorrect Front Wheel Camber
4. Power Steering Gear Imbalance
5. Wheel Braking
1. Incorrect Steering Gear Adjustment
2. Worn Or Loose Tie Rod Ends
3. Loose Steering Gear Mounting Bolts
POTENTIAL CORRECTIONS
1. Inflate All Tires To Recommended
Pressure
2. Perform Lead Correction Procedure
3. Check And Reset Front Wheel
Camber
4. Replace Power Steering Gear
5. Correct Braking Condition Causing
Lateral Pull
1. Adjust Or Replace Steering Gear
2. Replace Or Tighten Tie Rod Ends
3. Tighten Steering Gear Bolts To The
Specified Torque
5. Replace Steering Shaft Coupler 4. Loose Or Worn Steering Shaft
Coupler
1. Low Tire Pressure 1. Inflate All Tires To Recommended
Pressure
2. Replace Steering Gear 2. Lack Of Lubricant In Steering Gear
3. Low Power Steering Fluid Level
4. Loose Power Steering Pump Belt
5. Lack Of Lubricant In Steering Ball
Joints
3. Fill Power Steering Fluid Reservoir To
Correct Level
4. Correctly Adjust Power Steering Pump
Drive Belt
5. Lubricate Or Replace Steering Ball
Joints
6. Steering Gear Malfunction 6. Replace Steering Gear
7. Lack Of Lubricant In Steering Coupler 7. Replace Steering Coupler
PRE-WHEEL ALIGNMENT INSPECTION
Before any attempt is made to change or correct the wheel alignment factors. The following part inspection and the necessary corrections should be made to those parts which influence the steering of the vehicle.
(1) Check and inflate all tires to recommended pressure. All tires should be the same size and in good condition and have approximately the same wear. Note the type of tread wear which will aid in diagnosing, see Wheels and Tires, Group 22.
(2) Check front wheel and tire assembly for radial runout.
(3) Inspect lower ball joints and all steering linkage for looseness.
(4) Check for broken or sagged front and rear springs.
(5) Check vehicle ride height to verify it is within specifications.
(6) Alignment MUST only be checked after the vehicle has the following areas inspected and or adjusted. Recommended tire pressures, full tank of fuel, no passenger or luggage compartment load and is on a level floor or a properly calibrated alignment rack.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
WHEEL ALIGNMENT CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT
PROCEDURE
CASTER CAMBER DESCRIPTION
On this vehicle, the front suspension caster and camber settings and the rear suspension caster settings, are determined at the time the vehicle is designed. This is accomplished by very accurately locating the vehicle’s suspension components when designing and assembling the vehicle. This is called a
Net Build vehicle and results in no required or available adjustment of front and rear caster and front camber after the vehicle is built or when servicing the suspension components. Thus Caster and Camber are not normally considered an adjustable specification when performing an alignment on this vehicle.
Though Caster and Camber are not adjustable they must be checked to ensure they meet vehicle specifications.
If a vehicle’s front camber is found to be outside of the required specifications, the vehicles front suspension components should be inspected for any signs of damage or bending.
Rear Camber on this vehicle is adjustable. The rear camber on this vehicle is adjusted using the
JA
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued) adjusting screw located in the forward and rear lateral links of the vehicles rear suspension (Fig. 2).
Rear Caster on this vehicle is not adjustable and is not shown as an alignment specification.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to adjust the vehicles
Caster or Camber by heating, bending or any other modification of the suspension components.
SUSPENSION 2 - 5
CAUTION: When checking the rear alignment on this vehicle the alignment rack must be equipped with rear skid plates.
Correctly position vehicle on alignment rack and install all required equipment on vehicle, per the alignment equipment manufacturers specifications.
NOTE: Prior to reading each alignment specification, front and rear of vehicle should be jounced an equal number of times. Induce jounce (rear first then front) by grasping center of bumper and jouncing each end of vehicle an equal number of times.
Bumper should always be released when vehicle is at the bottom of the jounce cycle.
Correctly jounce vehicle and read front and rear alignment settings and compare to vehicle specifications for camber, caster and Toe. See Alignment Specifications in this group of the service manual for required specifications.
FRONT WHEEL TOE AND REAR WHEEL TOE
AND CAMBER SETTING PROCEDURE
(1) Prepare vehicle as described in the Pre-Alignment Vehicle Inspection procedure.
(2) Center steering wheel and lock in place using a steering wheel clamp.
NOTE: When performing the Front Toe and Rear
Camber and Toe setting procedure, the rear wheel
Camber and Toe MUST be set to the preferred specification first, then set front wheel Toe to the preferred specification.
Fig. 2 Lateral Arm Adjusting Screw Jam Nuts
CAUTION: When setting rear Camber and Toe on the vehicle, the maximum lengths of the adjustable lateral link at the locations shown in (Fig. 3) must not be exceeded. If these maximum lengths are exceeded, inadequate retention of adjustment link to the inner and outer link may result.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to straighten or repair a lateral link. Do not apply heat to the lateral link adjusting screws or to the jam nuts, (Fig. 2) when loosening or adjusting the lateral links.
(3) Loosen the adjusting screw jam nuts (Fig. 2) on all 4 of the rear lateral arm adjusting screws.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to move the adjusting screws without properly loosening the jam nuts.
Note that each adjusting screw has one righthanded nut and one left-handed nut.
Fig. 3 Rear Lateral Link Maximum
LengthDimensions
(4) Rough in Rear Camber setting as close as possible to the preferred specification first, by mainly adjusting the rear lateral link adjusting screw (Fig.
2). Some adjustment of the forward lateral link adjusting screw (Fig. 2) will also be required to get
Rear Camber setting to preferred specification. See
Alignment Specifications in this group of the service manual for preferred specification.
(5) Adjust the forward lateral link adjusting screw
(Fig. 2) to set rear Toe to preferred specification. See
Alignment Specifications in this group of the service manual for preferred specification.
• Adjusting Toe will cause a slight change in the
Camber setting. If during setting of Toe, Camber no longer is at the preferred specification, continue to
2 - 6 SUSPENSION
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued) adjust Camber and Toe until both are at their preferred specifications.
(6) While holding adjustment screws from turning, use a crow foot and torque wrench, and tighten all lateral link adjusting screw jam nuts to a torque of
65 N·m (48 ft. lbs.). This will securely hold adjusting screws from turning.
CAUTION: Do not twist front inner tie rod to steering gear rubber boots during front wheel Toe adjustment.
(7) Loosen front inner to outer tie rod end jam nuts (Fig. 4). Grasp inner tie rods at serrations (Fig.
4) and rotate inner tie rods of steering gear to set front Toe to the preferred Toe specification. See
Alignment Specifications in this group of the service manual for preferred specification
.
STEERING
INNER
GEAR
BOOTS
JA
Fig. 4 Inner To Outer Tie Rod Jam Nut
(8) Tighten tie rod locknuts (Fig. 4) to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Adjust steering gear to tie rod boots (Fig. 4) at inner tie rod.
(10) Remove steering wheel clamp.
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SUSPENSION 2 - 7
SPECIFICATIONS
VEHICLE ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS AT CURB
HEIGHT
FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT
ACCEPTABLE ALIGNMENT
RANGE AT CURB HEIGHT
0.05°out to 0.15° in
0.1°out to 0.3°in
PREFERRED SETTING
+0.0°
0.05° in TOE— RIGHT/
LEFT.................................
TOTAL
TOE..............................................
Specified In Degrees (See Note)
0.1° in
+3.3°
*Side To Side Caster Difference
Not To
1.0° or less
Exceed.........................................................
REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT ACCEPTABLE ALIGNMENT
RANGE AT CURB HEIGHT
0.0°
PREFERRED SETTING
TOE— RIGHT/
LEFT..................................
TOTAL
TOE..............................................
Specified In Degrees (See Note)
TOE OUT: When Backed On
Alignment Rack Is TOE In When
Driving
0.05° out to 0.15° in
0.1° out to 0.3° in
-0.2°
0.05° in
0.1° in
THRUST
ANGLE.....................................
+ or - 0.15° 0.0°
Note: Total Toe is the arithmetic sum of the left and right wheel Toe settings. Positive is Toe-in, negative is
Toe-out. Total Toe must be equally split between each front wheel to ensure the steering wheel is centered after setting Toe. Left and Right Toe must be equal to within 0.02 degrees.
2 - 8 SUSPENSION
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FRONT SUSPENSION
GENERAL INFORMATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
. . . . . . . 10
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
. . . . . . . . . . . . 9
STABILIZER BAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
UPPER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT . . . . . . . . 10
UPPER CONTROL ARM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
HUB/BEARING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
LOWER BALL JOINT ASSEMBLY WEAR
INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
. . . . . . . . . . . 10
STABILIZER BAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
UPPER BALL JOINT WEAR INSPECTION
. . . . 11
GENERAL INFORMATION
GENERAL INFORMATION
CAUTION: ONLY FRAME CONTACT HOISTING
EQUIPMENT CAN BE USED ON THIS VEHICLE. All vehicles have a fully independent rear suspension.
The vehicles can not be hoisted using equipment designed to lift a vehicle by the rear axle. If this type of hoisting equipment is used, damage to rear suspension components will occur.
INDEX
page page
UPPER CONTROL ARM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
. . . . . . . . . 26
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
. . . . . . . . . . . 12
STABILIZER BAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
UPPER CONTROL ARM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
. . . . . . . . . 38
. . . . . . . . . . 39
LOWER CONTROL ARM FRONT ISOLATOR
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
LOWER CONTROL ARM REAR ISOLATOR
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
SHOCK ABSORBER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
STABILIZER BAR BUSHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
UPPER BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT . . . . . . . . . . . 41
SPECIFICATIONS
FRONT SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
SPECIAL TOOLS
FRONT SUSPENSION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
the coil spring coating and lead to a corrosion failure of the spring. If a plastic clip is missing, or is lost or broken during servicing a vehicle, replace only with the equivalent part listed in the Mopar parts catalog.
CAUTION: At no time when servicing a vehicle, can a sheet metal screw, bolt or other metal fastener be installed in the shock tower to take the place of an original plastic clip. Also, NO holes can be drilled into the front shock tower in the area shown in (Fig. 1), for the installation of any metal fasteners into the shock tower.
Because of the minimum clearance in this area
(Fig. 1) installation of metal fasteners could damage
Fig. 1 Shock Tower To Spring Minimum
ClearanceArea
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SUSPENSION 2 - 9
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
FRONT SUSPENSION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
This vehicle’s front suspension is a short long arm design used in conjunction with a gas pressurized shock absorber and coil spring assembly.
The upper control arm of the vehicle is mounted using rubber isolation bushings to an aluminum casting which is attached to the shock tower using 4 mounting bolts. This aluminum casting is also used as the upper mount for the front shock/coil spring assembly. The shock absorber assembly is also isolated from the aluminum bracket using a 2 piece rubber bushing design. The lower control arm is mounted to the vehicle’s front suspension crossmember using 2 through bolts per control arm. The lower control arm is also isolated from the vehicle using 2 rubber bushings of unique design for the front and rear mounting location. The bottom of the shock absorber is mounted to the lower control arm by a clevis bracket which is part of the shock absorber assembly. The clevis bracket is mounted to and isolated from the lower control arm using a rubber isolation bushing and a through-bolt. The front steering knuckle is mounted to the vehicle by a ball joint located in the upper and lower control arms. Steering of the vehicle is provided by a rack and pinion steering gear which is connected directly to the steering knuckle by an outer tie rod.
The front shock absorber assembly includes the following components: A rubber isolated top mount, an upper spring seat, upper control arm/shock absorber bracket, jounce bumper, dust shield, coil spring, lower spring seat and the shock absorber clevis bracket.
A sealed for life front hub and bearing assembly is attached to the front steering knuckle. The outer C/V joint assembly is splined to the front hub and bearing assembly and is retained by a nut, nut retainer and cotter pin.
CAUTION: ONLY FRAME CONTACT HOISTING
EQUIPMENT CAN BE USED ON THIS VEHICLE. All vehicles have a fully independent rear suspension.
The vehicles can not be hoisted using equipment designed to lift a vehicle by the rear axle. If this type of hoisting equipment is used, damage to rear suspension components will occur.
SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEMBLY
The front shock absorber and suspension of the vehicle is supported by coil springs positioned around the shock absorbers. The springs are contained between an upper seat, located just below the top shock absorber mounting bracket and a lower spring seat located on the shock absorber.
The top of each shock absorber assembly is bolted to the cast aluminum upper control arm bracket which is then bolted to the shock tower of the vehicle using 4 mounting bolts.
The bottom of the shock absorber assembly attaches to the lower control arm of the vehicle using a thru-bolt and prevailing torque nut. Caster and camber is a fixed setting (net build) on all vehicles and is not required nor can be adjusted.
STEERING KNUCKLE
The steering knuckle is a single casting with legs machined for attachment to the vehicle’s upper and lower control arm ball joints. The steering knuckle also has machined abutments on the casting to support and align the front brake caliper assembly. The knuckle also holds the front drive shaft outer C/V joint hub and bearing assembly. The hub is positioned through the bearing and knuckle, with the constant velocity stub shaft splined through the hub.
The outer C/V joint is retained to the hub and bearing assembly using a nut, nut lock and cotter pin.
LOWER CONTROL ARM
The lower control arm is a ductile iron casting using 2 rubber bushings to isolate it from the front suspension crossmember and body of the vehicle. The isolator bushings consist of 2 metal encased rubber isolated pivot bushings. The front of the lower control arm is bolted to the front crossmember using a bolt through the center of the rubber pivot bushing. The rear of the lower control arm is mounted to the front suspension crossmember using a thru-bolt. The lower control arms are inter-connected through a linked rubber isolated sway bar.
UPPER CONTROL ARM
The upper control arm is a high strength steel stamping. The upper control arm uses the 2 rubber bushings of the upper control arm/shock absorber mounting bracket to isolate it from the mounting bracket and the body of the vehicle. The isolator bushings used in the upper control arm are a metal encased rubber isolated pivot bushing. The bushings isolate the upper control arm from the body of the vehicle yet allows for the up and down movement of the control arm during the jounce and rebound travel of the vehicle suspension. The upper control arm is bolted to the top of the steering knuckle using the upper ball joint.
STABILIZER BAR
The stabilizer bar interconnects both front lower control arms of the vehicle and is attached to the front suspension cradle and the underbody of the vehicle.
2 - 10 SUSPENSION
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
Jounce and rebound movements affecting one wheel are partially transmitted to the opposite wheel of the vehicle to stabilize body roll.
Attachment of the stabilizer bar to the front suspension cradle is through 2 rubber-isolator bushings and bushing retainers. The stabilizer bar to lower control arm attachment is done utilizing a ball joint type, stabilizer bar attaching link. All parts of the stabilizer bar are replaceable as individual components, and the stabilizer bar to crossmember bushings are split for easy removal and installation.
attempt should be made to ever add any lubrication to the lower ball joint.
UPPER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT
The ball joint is pressed into the upper control arm and has a tapered stud for attachment to the steering knuckle. The ball joint stud is attached and locked into the steering knuckle using a castle nut and cotter pin. The ball joint is not serviceable as a separate component of the upper control arm. If the ball joint is defective it will require replacement of the entire upper control arm.
HUB BEARING ASSEMBLY
The bearing used on the front hub of this vehicle is the combined hub and bearing unit type assembly.
This unit assembly combines the front wheel mounting hub (flange) and the front wheel bearing into a one piece unit. The hub/bearing assembly is mounted to the steering knuckle and is retained by three mounting bolts accessible from the back of the steering knuckle. The hub/bearing unit is not serviceable and must be replaced as an assembly if the bearing or the hub is determined to be defective. The wheel mounting studs are the only replaceable component of the hub/bearing assembly.
WHEEL MOUNTING STUDS
If wheel attaching studs need to be replaced in the hub and bearing assembly the studs CAN NOT be hammered out of the hub flange. If a stud is removed by hammering it out of the bearing flange, damage to the hub and bearing assembly will occur leading to premature bearing failure.
Use the procedure and special tools shown in the service procedures section for the wheel mounting studs when replacing the wheel attaching studs.
The hub and bearing assembly does not require removal from the steering knuckle or the rear knuckle to replace the wheel attaching studs in the hub and bearing assembly.
COIL SPRING
Coil springs are rated separately for each corner or side of the vehicle depending on optional equipment and type of vehicle service. During service procedures when both springs are removed, mark springs to ensure installation in original position. If the coil springs require replacement, be sure that the springs needing replacement, are replaced with springs meeting the correct load rating and spring rate for the vehicle and its specific options.
LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT
The ball joint used in the lower control arm of this vehicle is a sealed for life ball joint. The ball joint can not be replaced as a separate component of the lower control arm assembly. If the ball joint is determined to be defective it will require replacement of the complete lower control arm assembly.
. The lower ball joint connection to the steering knuckle is achieved by an interference fit created by the tapered stud of the ball joint and a tapered hole in the steering knuckle. The ball joint stud is retained in the steering knuckle using a castle nut and a cotter pin. The cotter pin is used for positive retention of the castle nut.
The lower ball joint is lubricated for life at the time it is assembled in the lower control arm. The ball joint does not require any type of additional lubrication for the life of the vehicle. No
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEMBLY
(1) Inspect for damaged or broken coil springs
(Fig. 2).
(2) Inspect for torn or damaged shock absorber dust boots (Fig. 2).
(3) Lift the dust boot and inspect the shock absorber for evidence of fluid running from the upper end of fluid reservoir. (Actual leakage will be a stream of fluid running down the side and dripping off lower end of unit). A slight amount of seepage between the shock absorber rod and the seal is not unusual and does not affect performance of the shock absorber. Also inspect jounce bumpers for signs of damage or deterioration (Fig. 2).
STEERING KNUCKLE
The front suspension steering knuckle is not a repairable component of the front suspension. IT
MUST BE REPLACED IF FOUND TO BE DAM-
AGED IN ANY WAY. If it is determined that the steering knuckle is bent when servicing the vehicle, no attempt is to be made to straighten the steering knuckle.
On this vehicle the steering knuckle must be removed from the vehicle when servicing the front hub bearing.
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
SUSPENSION 2 - 11
Fig. 2 On Vehicle Shock Absorber
AssemblyInspection
LOWER CONTROL ARM
If damaged, the lower control arm casting is serviced only as a complete component. Inspect lower control arm for signs of damage from contact with the ground or road debris. If lower control arm shows any sign of damage, inspect lower control arm for distortion. Do not attempt to repair or straighten a broken or bent lower control arm.
The replaceable components of the lower control arm are: the ball joint grease seal and the control arm bushings. Inspect both control arm bushings for severe deterioration, and replace if required.
Inspect the lower ball joint for wear. Use the wear inspection procedure in the diagnosis and testing section in this group of service manual to determine if the wear is excessive and ball joint (lower control arm) replacement is required.
Service procedures to replace these components are detailed in the specific component removal and installation sections in this group of the service manual.
UPPER CONTROL ARM
If damaged, the upper control arm is serviced only as a complete component. Inspect the upper control arm for any signs of damage. If control arm shows any sign of damage the upper control arm must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair or straighten a broken or bent upper control arm.
The only serviceable component of the upper control arm is the ball joint grease seal. No other repair or replacement procedure should be attempted on any component of the upper control arm. Service procedures to replace the serviceable components are detailed in the specific component sections of this group.
LOWER BALL JOINT ASSEMBLY WEAR
INSPECTION
(1) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(2) Install a dial indicator on the vehicle so it is contacting the top surface of the steering knuckle near the lower ball joint stud castle nut.
(3) Grab wheel and tire assembly and push it up and down firmly.
(4) Record the amount of up and down movement of the steering knuckle recorded on the dial indicator.
(5) Replace lower control arm if the movement in the lower control arm exceeds 1.5 mm (.059 in.).
UPPER BALL JOINT WEAR INSPECTION
With the weight of the vehicle resting on the road wheels. Grasp the grease fitting and with no mechanical assistance or added force attempt to move the grease fitting.
If the ball joint is worn the grease fitting will move easily. If movement is noted, replacement of the upper control arm is required.
STABILIZER BAR
Inspect for broken or distorted stabilizer bar bushings, bushing retainers, and worn or damaged stabilizer bar to control arm attaching links. If stabilizer bar to front suspension cradle bushing replacement is required, bushing can be removed from stabilizer bar by opening slit and peeling bushing off stabilizer bar.
HUB/BEARING
The hub bearing is designed for the life of the vehicle and requires no type of periodic maintenance. The following procedure may be used for diagnosing the condition of the hub bearing.
With the wheel, disc brake caliper, and brake rotor removed, rotate the wheel hub. Any roughness or resistance to rotation may indicate dirt intrusion or a failed hub bearing. If the hub bearing exhibits any of these conditions during diagnosis, the hub bearing will require replacement, the bearing is not serviceable.
Damaged bearing seals and the resulting excessive grease loss may also require bearing replacement.
Moderate grease weapage from the hub bearing is considered normal and should not require replacement of the hub bearing.
WHEEL SPEED SENSENSOR CABLE BRACKET
2 - 12 SUSPENSION
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEMBLY
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE SHOCK ROD NUT
WHILE SHOCK ASSEMBLY IS INSTALLED IN VEHI-
CLE, OR BEFORE SHOCK ASSEMBLY SPRING IS
COMPRESSED.
REMOVE
(1) Loosen wheel nuts.
(2) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(3) Remove wheel and tire assembly from location on front of vehicle requiring strut removal.
(4) If both shock absorbers are removed, mark the shock absorbers right and left according to which side of the vehicle they were removed from.
(5) Remove the wheel speed sensor cable routing bracket (Fig. 3) from the steering knuckle.
Fig. 4 Ball Joint Attachment To SteeringKnuckle
Fig. 5 Ball Joint Stud Removal From
SteeringKnuckle
Fig. 3 Wheel Speed Sensor Cable RoutingBracket
(6) Remove the cotter pin and castle nut (Fig. 4) from the upper ball joint stud.
(7) Remove the upper ball joint stud from the steering knuckle using Puller, Special Tool, C-3894-A
(Fig. 5). Pull steering knuckle outward and position toward the rear of the front wheel opening.
(8) Remove pinch bolt attaching shock absorber clevis to shock absorber (Fig. 6).
(9) Remove the thru-bolt (Fig. 7) attaching the shock absorber clevis to the lower control arm.
(10) Remove the clevis from the shock absorber by carefully tapping the clevis off the shock absorber using a soft (brass) drift.
Fig. 6 Shock Absorber Clevis Bracket PinchBolt
(11) Remove the 4 bolts (Fig. 8) attaching the shock absorber/upper control arm mounting bracket to the shock tower of the vehicle.
COVER THRU-BOLT CLEVIS
TIE ROD END
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
CLEVIS SPLIT
SUSPENSION 2 - 13
Fig. 7 Clevis To Lower Control Arm AttachingBolt
Fig. 8 Shock Absorber Attachment To ShockTower
(12) Remove the shock absorber and upper control arm mounting bracket as an assembly from the vehicle. The shock absorber is removed out through the front area of the front wheel well.
INSTALL
(1) Install the shock absorber assembly, with the clevis removed, into shock tower. Aligning the 2 locating pins and the 4 mounting holes on the upper control arm shock absorber mount with the 4 holes in shock tower. Install the 4 upper control arm mount to shock tower mounting bolts (Fig. 8). Tighten the 4 bolts to a torque of 90 N·m (68 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install the clevis on the shock absorber. Clevis is installed by tapping it onto the fluid reservoir of the shock absorber using a soft (brass) drift until fully seated against locating tab on shock absorber
(Fig. 9). Orientation tab on locating tab (Fig. 9) must be positioned in the split of the clevis.
(3) Install the clevis bracket to lower control arm thru-bolt (Fig. 7). Do not tighten or torque the thrubolt at this time.
Fig. 9 Clevis Correctly Installed On ShockAbsorber
(4) Install upper ball joint into steering knuckle.
Install castle nut on ball joint stud. Tighten castle nut to a torque of 62 N·m (45 ft. lbs.). Install cotter pin in stud of ball joint (Fig. 4).
(5) Install the routing bracket for the speed control cable (Fig. 3) on the steering knuckle. Install and securely tighten the routing bracket attaching bolt
(Fig. 3).
CAUTION: When supporting lower control arm with jack stand, do not position jack stand under the ball joint cap on the lower control arm. Position in area of lower control arm shown in (Fig. 10).
(6) Lower vehicle to the ground with a jack stand positioned under the lower control arm (Fig. 10).
Continue to lower vehicle so the total weight of the vehicle is supported by the jack stand and lower control arm.
Fig. 10 Lower Control Arm Correctly SupportedBy
Jack Stand
WHEEL SPEED SENSENSOR CABLE BRACKET
2 - 14 SUSPENSION
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(7) zTighten the shock absorber clevis to lower control arm bushing thru-bolt to a torque of 95 N·m
(70 ft. lbs.).
(8) Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
UPPER CONTROL ARM
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle. Remove wheel and tire assembly from side of vehicle requiring service to lower control arm.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly from location on front of vehicle requiring upper control arm removal.
(3) Remove the wheel speed sensor cable routing bracket (Fig. 11) from the steering knuckle.
JA
Fig. 12 Ball Joint Attachment To SteeringKnuckle
Fig. 11 Wheel Speed Sensor Cable RoutingBracket
(4) Remove the cotter pin and castle nut (Fig. 12) from the upper ball joint stud.
(5) Remove the upper ball joint stud from the steering knuckle using Puller, Special Tool, C-3894-A
(Fig. 13). Pull steering knuckle outward and position toward the rear of the front wheel opening.
(6) Remove bolt (Fig. 14) attaching shock absorber clevis to the shock absorber.
Fig. 13 Ball Joint Stud Removal From
SteeringKnuckle
Fig. 14 Shock Absorber Clevis Pinch Bolt
COVER THRU-BOLT CLEVIS
TIE ROD END
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(7) Remove the thru-bolt (Fig. 15) attaching the shock absorber clevis to the lower control arm.
SUSPENSION 2 - 15
Fig. 15 Clevis To Lower Control Arm Attaching
(8) Remove the clevis from the shock absorber by carefully tapping it off the shock absorber using a soft (brass) drift.
(9) Remove the 4 bolts (Fig. 16) attaching the upper control arm/shock absorber mounting bracket to the shock tower of the vehicle.
Fig. 17 Shock Absorber Correctly Mounted In Vise
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE SHOCK ABSORBER
ROD NUT, BEFORE SHOCK ABSORBER COIL
SPRING IS COMPRESSED, REMOVING SPRING
TENSION FROM UPPER CONTROL ARM/SHOCK
ABSORBER MOUNTING BRACKET.
WARNING: WHEN COMPRESSING COIL SPRING
FOR REMOVAL FROM SHOCK ABSORBER, THE
FIRST FULL TOP AND BOTTOM COIL OF THE COIL
SPRING MUST BE CAPTURED BY THE JAWS OF
THE COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR.
(12) Compress shock absorber coil spring, using
Professional Services Equipment Spring Compressor,
GP-2020-C3.5 fitted with the GP-C42 top spring shoe and the GP-A20 bottom spring shoe (Fig. 18).
Fig. 16 Shock Absorber Attachment To ShockTower
(10) Remove the shock absorber and upper control arm mounting bracket as an assembly from the vehicle.
CAUTION: Do not clamp the shock absorber in a vise by the body of the shock absorber. The clevis bracket must be reinstalled on the shock absorber clamped in the vise using the clevis bracket.
(11) Install clevis bracket back on shock absorber and tighten pinch bolt. Then using the clevis bracket, clamp the shock absorber assembly in vise, with shock absorber in a vertical position (Fig. 17).
Fig. 18 Compressing Shock Absorber Coil Spring
SHOCK ARM MOUNTING ABSORBER
2 - 16 SUSPENSION
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(13) Hold the rod of the shock absorber from rotating using Shock Absorber Socket, Snap-On A136 or an equivalent (Fig. 19). Then remove the shock absorber shaft nut.
SHOCK BUSHING SHOCK ABSORBER ROD SHOCK ARM
JA
Fig. 19 Shock Absorber Shaft Nut Removal
(14) Remove the washer (Fig. 20) from shock absorber rod.
Fig. 21 Shock Absorber/Upper Control ArmMounting
Bracket
Fig. 22 Shock Absorber Rod Upper IsolatorBushing
(17) Remove the shock absorber rod lower isolator bushing and sleeve (Fig. 23) from the shock absorber/ upper control arm mounting bracket. Then remove upper spring isolator (Fig.
23) from mounting bracket.
Fig. 20 Shock Absorber Rod Upper Washer
(15) Remove the shock absorber/upper control arm mounting bracket and isolator bushings from the shock absorber assembly (Fig. 21).
CAUTION: The top and bottom bushings for the shock absorber rod are unique to the position which they are installed on the rod. When removing the bushings from the rod, attention must be paid to their location so they will be installed correctly when shock absorber is assembled.
(16) Remove the shock absorber rod upper isolator bushing (Fig. 22) from the shock absorber/upper control arm mounting bracket.
Fig. 23 Shock Absorber Rod Lower IsolatorBushing
And Sleeve
SHOCK ABSORBER ROD SHOCK ABSORBER ON IN THIS
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(18) Remove the 2 bolts (Fig. 24) attaching the upper control arm to the bushings in the upper control arm mounting bracket.
SUSPENSION 2 - 17
(3) Install the lower isolator bushing and sleeve
(Fig. 23) in the shock absorber/lower control mounting bracket. Install the coil spring upper isolator on the mounting bracket (Fig. 23).
(4) Install the upper isolator bushing (Fig. 22) on the shock absorber/upper control arm mounting bracket.
(5) Install the shock absorber/upper control arm mounting bracket (Fig. 21) on the shock absorber assembly.
(6) Install the upper washer on the rod of shock absorber and positioned with the word TOP facing up
(Fig. 20).
Fig. 24 Upper Control Arm To Mounting
BracketAttachment
(19) Remove the upper control arm from the mounting bracket.
INSTALL
(1) Install the upper control arm assembly on its mounting bracket.
(2) Install and securely tighten the 2 bolts attaching the upper control arm to the bushings in the mounting bracket (Fig.
24).
Bolts MUST be installed so the head of the bolt will be toward the coil spring when the mounting bracket is installed on shock absorber (Fig. 24).
CAUTION: The top and bottom shock absorber rod bushings are unique to the position which they are installed on the rod. When installing the bushings on the rod, attention must be paid to their location so they are installed correctly (Fig. 25).
Fig. 25 Upper And Lower Shock Absorber
RodBushing Identification
WARNING: THE FOLLOWING 2 STEPS MUST BE
COMPLETELY DONE BEFORE SPRING COMPRES-
SOR, GP-2020-C3.5
OR AN EQUIVALENT IS
RELEASED FROM THE COIL SPRING.
(7) Install nut on rod of shock absorber assembly.
While holding rod of shock absorber from turning, tighten shock absorber rod retaining nut to a torque of 55 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 19).
(8) Relieve all tension from spring compressor.
After all spring tension has been removed from the spring compressor, remove it from the shock absorber assembly.
(9) Remove the shock absorber assembly from the vise and remove the clevis from the shock absorber.
(10) Install shock absorber assembly with the clevis bracket removed, into the shock tower. Align the
2 locating pins and the 4 mounting holes on the upper control arm shock absorber mount with the holes in shock tower. Install the 4 upper control arm mount to shock tower mounting bolts. Tighten the 4 bolts to a torque of 90 N·m (68 ft. lbs.). Refer to
Shock Absorber Installation in this section of the service manual for the proper procedure.
(11) Install the clevis on the shock absorber. Clevis is installed by tapping it onto shock absorber using a soft (brass) drift until fully seated against locating tab on shock absorber. Locating tab on collar must be positioned in the split of the clevis bracket (Fig. 26).
Tighten the shock absorber clevis pinch bolt to a torque of 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).
(12) Install the clevis to lower control arm isolator bushing thru- bolt (Fig. 15). Do not tighten or torque the thru-bolt at this time.
(13) Install upper ball joint into steering knuckle.
Install nut on ball joint stud. Tighten nut to a torque of 62 N·m (45 ft. lbs.). Install cotter pin in of ball joint (Fig. 12).
(14) Install the routing bracket for the wheel speed sensor cable on the steering knuckle (Fig. 11). Install and securely tighten the routing bracket attaching bolt.
CLEVIS SPLIT
2 - 18 SUSPENSION
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
BALL JOINT HEAT SHIELD CON-
JA
Fig. 26 Clevis Correctly Installed On ShockAbsorber
CAUTION: When supporting lower control arm with jack stand, do not position jack stand under the ball joint cap on the lower control arm. Position in area of lower control arm shown in (Fig. 27).
(15) Lower vehicle to the ground with a jack stand positioned under the lower control arm (Fig. 27).
Continue to lower vehicle so the total weight of the vehicle is supported by the jack stand and lower control arm.
(19) Raise vehicle and remove jack stand from under lower control arm and lower vehicle to the ground.
(20) Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
LOWER CONTROL ARM
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle.
(3) If the vehicle is equipped with 15 inch wheels the heat shield (Fig. 28) will need to be removed before the lower control arm can be separated from the steering knuckle. Use the following procedure to remove the heat shield.
Fig. 27 Lower Control Arm Correctly SupportedBy
Jack Stand
(16) Tighten the shock absorber clevis to lower control arm bushing thru-bolt to a torque of 88 N·m
(65 ft. lbs.).
(17) Properly lubricate the upper ball joint using
Mopar Multi-Mileage Lube or an equivalent.
(18) Install the wheel and tire assembly back on the vehicle.
Fig. 28 Lower Ball Joint Heat Shield With15 Inch
Wheel
(4) Remove the 2 bolts attaching the disc brake caliper to the steering knuckle (Fig. 29). Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Using wire or an equivalent, hang caliper from upper control arm so weight of caliper is not supported by the brake flex hose (Fig. 30).
(5) Remove the 2 bolts attaching the heat shield
(Fig. 28) to the steering knuckle. Remove heat shield from steering knuckle.
(6) Remove brake rotor from front hub/bearing assembly.
(7) Remove cotter pin and castle nut (Fig. 31) from stud of lower ball joint.
STEERING ASSEMBLY STEERING
ABS SPEED SEN-
SOR CABLE
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
HAMMER THRU-BOLT SHOCK ABSORBER
BALL JOINT TIE ROD END
STUD
LOWER CONTROL
SUSPENSION 2 - 19
steering knuckle is to be separated from the ball joint only using the procedure as described in step
Step 8 below.
(8) Turn steering knuckle so the front of the steering knuckle is facing as far outboard in the wheel opening as possible (Fig. 32). Using a hammer strike steering knuckle boss (Fig. 32) until steering knuckle separates from the lower ball joint. When striking steering knuckle care MUST be taken not to hit lower control arm or ball joint grease seal.
Fig. 29 Disc Brake Caliper Mounting
Fig. 30 Stored Disc Brake Caliper
Fig. 32 Separating Lower Ball Joint StudFrom
Steering Knuckle
CAUTION: Pulling the steering knuckle outward from the vehicle after releasing it from the ball joint, can separate inner C/V joint. See Driveshafts.
(9) Remove the shock absorber clevis to lower control arm bushing thru-bolt. Separate clevis from lower control arm (Fig. 33).
Fig. 31 Lower Ball Joint To Steering
KnuckleAttachment
CAUTION: No tool is to be inserted between the steering knuckle and the lower ball joint to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle. The
Fig. 33 Clevis To Lower Control Arm Attachment
WRENCH
STABILIZER BAR LINK ASSEMBLY
2 - 20 SUSPENSION
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(10) Remove nut attaching stabilizer bar link to lower control arm (Fig. 34). When removing nut, hold stud of stabilizer bar link from turning by inserting an allen wrench in the end of the stud (Fig. 34).
ATTACHING BOLT
SHOCK CLE-
VIS
ARM
JA
Fig. 34 Removing/ Installing Nut From StudOf
Stabilizer Link
(11) Remove the bolts (Fig. 35) attaching one stabilizer bar bushing clamp to the front suspension crossmember and the body of the vehicle.
Fig. 36 Lower Control Arm Attachment To
FrontSuspension Crossmember
Fig. 35 Stabilizer Bar Bushing Clamp AttachmentTo
Vehicle
(12) Lower the one side of the stabilizer bar away from the lower control arm and body of vehicle.
(13) Remove the nut and bolt (Fig. 36) attaching the lower control arm to the front suspension crossmember.
(14) Remove nut and bolt attaching the front of the lower control arm to the front suspension crossmember (Fig. 37).
CAUTION: When removing lower control arm from crossmember care must be taken to prevent hitting
Fig. 37 Attaching Front Of Lower ControlArm To
Suspension Crossmember
lower ball joint seal against steering knuckle, causing damage to the ball joint seal.
(15) Remove the front of the lower control arm from the front suspension crossmember first.
(16) Then, remove the rear of the lower control arm from the front suspension crossmember. When removing rear of lower control arm from crossmember, keep control arm as level as possible. This will keep rear bushing from binding on crossmember making it easier to remove control arm from crossmember.
INSTALL
(1) Position rear of lower control arm into front suspension crossmember first. Then install front of lower control arm in front suspension crossmember.
Install bolts and nuts (Fig. 36) and (Fig. 37) attaching the front and rear of lower control arm to front
BALL JOINT CAP
HUB NUT
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued) suspension crossmember. Do not tighten front
attaching bolt at this time .
(2) Tighten rear lower control arm nut and bolt
(Fig. 36) to a torque of 115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install lower control arm ball joint stud into steering knuckle. Install steering knuckle to ball joint stud castle nut (Fig. 31). Torque castle nut to 74
N·m (55 ft. lbs.). Install cotter pin (Fig. 31) in ball joint.
(4) Position sway bar link into its lower control arm mounting hole.
(5) Align sway bar bushing clamp with mounting holes in front suspension crossmember and body of vehicle. Then install and securely tighten the bushing clamp mounting bolts (Fig. 35) to a torque of 54
N·m (40 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install and securely tighten the stabilizer bar link to lower control arm attaching nut. When tightening attaching nut, hold stud of attaching link from turning by holding it with an allen wrench (Fig. 34).
(7) Install the clevis on the lower control arm.
Loosely install the clevis to bushing thru-bolt (Fig.
33).
SUSPENSION 2 - 21
(10) Tighten front lower control arm nut and bolt
(Fig. 37) to a torque of 182 N·m (135 ft. lbs.).
(11) If vehicle is equipped with 15 inch wheels the heat shield (Fig. 28) MUST be installed on steering knuckle and mounting bolts securely tighten before rotor and caliper is installed on steering knuckle.
(12) Install rotor on hub/bearing assembly.
(13) Install disc brake caliper on steering knuckle.
Install and tighten the disc brake caliper mounting bolts (Fig. 29) to a torque of 22 N·m (16 ft. lbs.).
(14) Install wheel and tire assembly.
(15) Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
(16) Remove jack stand from under lower control arm and lower vehicle to the ground.
(17) Check the vehicles alignment specifications and set front Toe to preferred specifications.
STEERING KNUCKLE
CAUTION: When supporting lower control arm with jack stand, do not position jack stand under the ball joint cap on the lower control arm. Position in area of lower control arm shown in (Fig. 38).
REMOVE
(1) Remove cotter pin, nut lock, and spring washer
(Fig. 39) from the front stub axle.
(8) Lower vehicle to the ground with a jack stand positioned under the lower control arm (Fig. 38).
Continue to lower vehicle so the total weight of the vehicle is supported by the jack stand and lower control arm.
Fig. 38 Supporting Lower Control Arm WithJack
Stand
(9) With the vehicle’s suspension at curb
height, tighten the clevis to lower control arm bushing thru-bolt (Fig. 33) to a torque of 88 N·m (65 ft.
lbs.).
Fig. 39 Cotter Pin, Nut Lock
CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
(2) Loosen hub nut while vehicle is on the floor with the brakes applied (Fig. 40). The hub and driveshaft are splined together through the knuckle (bearing) and retained by the hub nut.
(3) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
2 - 22 SUSPENSION
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
BALL JOINT HEAT SHIELD UPPER CONTROL ARM STEERING
ABS SPEED SEN-
SOR CABLE
JA
Fig. 40 Loosening Front Hub Nut
(4) Remove front tire and wheel assembly from the hub.
(5) Remove front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle guide pin attaching bolts (Fig. 41).
Fig. 42 Disc Brake Caliper Removal/ InstallationOn
Steering Knuckle
Fig. 43 Correctly Supported Front Disc BrakeCaliper
Fig. 41 Front Disc Brake Caliper Mounting
(6) Remove disc brake caliper assembly from steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first lifting bottom of caliper away from steering knuckle, and then removing top of caliper out from under steering knuckle (Fig. 42).
(7) Support brake caliper/adapter assembly using a wire hook (Fig. 43) and not by hydraulic hose.
(8) Remove the braking disc from the front hub/ bearing assembly.
(9) If vehicle is equipped with 15 inch wheels, remove lower ball joint heat shield (Fig. 44) from lower control arm. Heat shield must be removed before attempting to separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle.
Fig. 44 Ball Joint Heat Shield With 15 InchWheels
ROD TIE ROD END
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(10) Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to the steering knuckle (Fig. 45). Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with wrench (Fig.
45).
WHEEL SPEED SENSENSOR CABLE BRACKET
SUSPENSION 2 - 23
Fig. 47 Speed Sensor Cable Routing Bracket
Fig. 45 Tie Rod End Attaching Nut
(11) Remove the tie rod end from steering knuckle arm, using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 (Fig.
46).
Fig. 46 Tie Rod End Removal From SteeringKnuckle
(12) If equipped with antilock brakes remove the speed sensor cable routing bracket (Fig. 47) from the steering knuckle.
(13) Remove cotter pin and castle nut (Fig. 48) from stud of lower ball joint at the steering knuckle.
CAUTION: No tool is to be inserted between the steering knuckle and the lower ball joint to separate stud of lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
The steering knuckle is to be separated from the stud of the ball joint only using the procedure as described in step Step 14 below.
Fig. 48 Lower Ball Joint Attachment To
SteeringKnuckle
(14) Turn steering knuckle so the front of the steering knuckle is facing as far outboard in the wheel well as possible. Using a hammer strike the boss on the steering knuckle, (Fig. 49) until steering knuckle separates from stud of lower ball joint.
When striking steering knuckle care MUST be taken not to hit lower control arm or ball joint grease seal.
CAUTION: Pulling steering knuckle out from vehicle after releasing from ball joint can separate inner
C/V joint. See Driveshafts.
(15) Lift up on steering knuckle separating it from the lower ball joint stud. Use caution when sepa- rating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint, driveshaft must be supported.
OUTER KNUCKLE BOSS
BALL JOINT
STUD
2 - 24 SUSPENSION
HUB/BEARING
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
JA
Fig. 49 Separating Ball Joint Stud From
SteeringKnuckle
(16) Separate the steering knuckle from the outer
C/V joint. Separate steering knuckle from outer C/V joint, by supporting the driveshaft while pulling steering knuckle away from the outer C/V joint (Fig.
50).
Fig. 51 Upper Ball Joint Attachment To
SteeringKnuckle
Fig. 50 Separating Steering Knuckle FromOuter C/V
Joint
(17) Remove the cotter pin and nut (Fig. 51) from the upper ball joint stud to steering knuckle attachment.
(18) Remove the upper ball joint stud from the steering knuckle using Puller, Special Tool, C-3894-A
(Fig. 52).
(19) Remove steering knuckle from vehicle.
(20) The bolt in type front wheel bearing used on the vehicle is transferable to the replacement steering knuckle if bearing is
found to be in usable condition. Refer to Hub
And Bearing Service in this section of the service manual for proper wheel bearing removal and installation procedure.
Fig. 52 Ball Joint Stud Removal From
SteeringKnuckle
INSTALL
(1) If required install a hub/bearing assembly into the steering knuckle before installing steering knuckle on vehicle. Refer to Hub And Bearing Service in this section of the service manual for proper wheel bearing removal and installation procedure.
(2) Slide drive shaft back into front hub/bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud in lower control arm.
(3) Install the steering knuckle to lower ball joint stud castle nut.
(4) Install upper ball joint in steering knuckle.
Install the steering knuckle to upper ball joint nut.
Tighten the upper ball joint castle nut (Fig. 51) to a torque of 62 N·m (45 ft. lbs.). Then, using a crowfoot and torque wrench, tighten the lower ball joint nut
(Fig. 48) to a torque of 75 N·m (55 ft. lbs.). Install cotter pins in upper and lower ball joint studs.
(5) If equipped with antilock brakes install the speed sensor cable routing bracket on the steering
HEATSHIELD CROWFOOT 11/32 SOCKET KNUCKLE
TIE ROD END
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued) knuckle (Fig. 47) and securely tighten the attaching bolt.
CAUTION: When installing tie rod on steering knuckle the heat shield (Fig. 53) must be installed.
If heat shield is not installed, tie rod seal boot can fail due to excessive heat from brake rotor.
(6) Install tie rod end into the steering knuckle.
Start tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary, tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut (Fig. 44). Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket tighten the attaching nut to a torque of 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 53).
AND
SUSPENSION 2 - 25
Fig. 54 Front Stub Axle Nut And Washer
(12) With vehicle brakes applied to keep braking disc from turning, tighten hub nut to 203 N·m (150 ft. lbs.) of torque (Fig. 55).
Fig. 53 Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut
CAUTION: The ball joint seal boot heat shield (Fig.
44) must be installed. If heat shield is not installed, ball joint seal boot can fail due to excessive heat from brake rotor.
(7) Install the lower ball joint heat shield (Fig. 44) on the steering knuckle.
(8) Install braking disc back on hub and bearing assembly.
(9) Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding top of caliper under top abutment on steering knuckle.
Then installing bottom of caliper against bottom abutment of steering knuckle (Fig. 42).
(10) Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle guide pin bolts (Fig. 41). Tighten caliper assembly guide pin bolts to a torque of 31 N·m (23 ft.
lbs.).
(11) Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install washer and hub nut (Fig. 54) onto stub axle and tighten nut.
Fig. 55 Torquing Front Hub Nut
(13) Install the spring washer, hub nut lock, and new cotter pin. Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock (Fig. 56).
Fig. 56 Installing Spring Washer, Nut LockAnd
Cotter Pin
WRENCH
STABILIZER BAR LINK ASSEMBLY
LOWER
2 - 26 SUSPENSION
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(14) Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install front wheel lug nuts and tighten in correct sequence.
Then tighten to a torque of 129 N·m (95 ft.lbs.).
(15) Lower vehicle.
(16) Set front Toe on vehicle to required specification. Use procedure listed under Wheel Alignment, in the Front Suspension Service Procedures section of this service manual.
STABILIZER BAR
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts and stabilizer bar attaching link assemblies from the front lower control arms (Fig.
57). When removing attaching link nut, keep stud from turning by installing an allen wrench in the end of the stud (Fig. 57).
Fig. 57 Stabilizer Bar Attaching Link NutRemoval
(3) Remove the 4 bolts attaching the stabilizer bar bushing retainers to the front suspension crossmember and body (Fig. 58). Then remove the stabilizer bar assembly from the vehicle.
STABILIZER BAR INSPECTION
Inspect for broken or distorted stabilizer bar bushings, clamps and attaching links. If stabilizer bar to front crossmember bushing replacement is required, bushing can be removed using following procedure.
If inspection determines that replacement of a stabilizer bar to lower control arm attachment link is required, replace the link before installing stabilizer bar.
JA
Fig. 58 Stabilizer Bar Bushing Retainer
AttachingBolts
INSTALL
(1) Position stabilizer bar and bushings as an assembly into front crossmember. Install the stabilizer bar bushing retainer to crossmember and body attaching bolts (Fig. 58).
(2) Align stabilizer bar attaching link assemblies with attaching link mounting holes in the lower control arms. Install stabilizer bar attaching links into both lower control arms. Install the attaching link to lower control arm retaining nuts. Torque the stabilizer bar attaching link nuts to 105 N·m (78 ft. lbs.).
FRONT HUB/BEARING ASSEMBLY
The front hub/bearing is serviced separately from the front steering knuckle. Retention of the front hub/bearing into the steering knuckle, is by means of
3 bolts installed from the rear of the steering knuckle. The bolts attach the hub/bearing to the outboard side of the steering knuckle. Removal and installation of the hub/bearing assembly from the steering knuckle must be done with the steering knuckle removed from the vehicle. This is required due to the tool clearance to the ABS tone wheel when removing the retaining bolts. Removing the retaining bolts with the steering knuckle installed can result in damage to the tone wheel teeth requiring replacement of the driveshaft. If vehicle is not equipped with ABS, the hub/bearing may be removable without removing steering knuckle from vehicle.
REMOVE
(1) Remove cotter pin, nut lock, and spring washer
(Fig. 59) from the front stub axle.
HUB NUT
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
UPPER CONTROL ARM STEERING
ABS SPEED SEN-
SOR CABLE
SUSPENSION 2 - 27
Fig. 59 Cotter Pin, Nut Lock
CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
(2) Loosen hub nut while vehicle is on the floor with the brakes applied (Fig. 60). The hub and driveshaft are splined together through the knuckle (bearing) and retained by the hub nut.
(3) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a
Fig. 61 Front Disc Brake Caliper Mounting
Fig. 62 Caliper Removal From Steering Knuckle
(7) Support brake caliper/adapter assembly using a wire hook (Fig. 63) and not by hydraulic hose.
Fig. 60 Loosening Front Hub Nut
frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(4) Remove front tire and wheel assembly from the hub.
(5) Remove front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle guide pin attaching bolts (Fig. 61).
(6) Remove disc brake caliper assembly from steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first lifting bottom of caliper away from steering knuckle, and then removing top of caliper out from under steering knuckle (Fig. 62).
Fig. 63 Correctly Supported Front Disc BrakeCaliper
NUT CON-
2 - 28 SUSPENSION
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(8) Remove the braking disc from the front hub/ bearing assembly.
(9) If vehicle is equipped with 15 inch wheels, remove lower ball joint heat shield (Fig. 64) from lower control arm. Heat shield must be removed before attempting to separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle.
SPEED SPECIAL CABLE TIE ROD END
JA
Fig. 66 Tie Rod End Removal From SteeringKnuckle
Fig. 64 Ball Joint Heat Shield With 15 InchWheels
(10) Remove nut attaching the outer tie rod end to the steering knuckle (Fig. 65). Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with wrench (Fig. 65).
Fig. 67 Speed Sensor Cable Routing Bracket
Fig. 65 Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut
(11) Remove the tie rod end from steering knuckle arm, using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 (Fig.
66).
(12) If equipped with antilock brakes remove the speed sensor cable routing bracket (Fig. 67) from the steering knuckle.
(13) Remove cotter pin and castle nut (Fig. 68) from the stud of the lower ball joint.
Fig. 68 Lower Ball Joint Attachment To
SteeringKnuckle
HAMMER KNUCKLE BOSS
BALL JOINT
STUD
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
CAUTION: No tool is to be inserted between the steering knuckle and the lower ball joint to separate stud of lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
The steering knuckle is to be separated from the stud of the ball joint only using the procedure as described in step Step 14 below.
(14) Turn steering knuckle so the front of the steering knuckle is facing as far outboard in the wheel well as possible. Using a hammer strike the boss on the steering knuckle, (Fig. 69) until steering knuckle separates from stud of lower ball joint.
When striking steering knuckle, care MUST be taken not to hit lower control arm or ball joint grease seal.
SUSPENSION 2 - 29
Fig. 70 Separating Steering Knuckle FromOuter C/V
Joint
Fig. 69 Separating Ball Joint Stud From
SteeringKnuckle
CAUTION: Pulling steering knuckle out from vehicle after releasing from ball joint can separate inner
C/V joint. See Driveshafts.
(15) Lift up on steering knuckle separating it from the lower ball joint stud. Use caution when sepa- rating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint, driveshaft must be supported.
(16) Separate the steering knuckle from the outer
C/V joint. Separate steering knuckle from outer C/V joint, by supporting the driveshaft while pulling steering knuckle away from the outer C/V joint (Fig.
70).
(17) Remove the cotter pin and nut (Fig. 71) from the upper ball joint stud to steering knuckle attachment.
(18) Remove the upper ball joint stud from the steering knuckle using Puller, Special Tool, C3894-A
(Fig. 72).
Fig. 71 Upper Ball Joint Attachment To
SteeringKnuckle
Fig. 72 Ball Joint Stud Removal From
SteeringKnuckle
(19) Remove steering knuckle from vehicle.
KNUCKLE
TIE ROD END
2 - 30 SUSPENSION
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(20) Mount steering knuckle securely in a vise.
(21) Remove the 3 bolts (Fig. 73) attaching the hub/bearing assembly to the steering knuckle.
(5) Install tie rod end into the steering knuckle.
Start tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding the stud of the tie rod end stationary, tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut (Fig. 65). Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket tighten the attaching nut to a torque of 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 74).
Fig. 73 Hub/Bearing Attaching Bolts
(22) Remove the hub/bearing assembly out from the front of the steering knuckle. If bearing will not come out of steering knuckle, it can be tapped out using a soft faced hammer.
(23) Thoroughly clean all hub/bearing assembly mounting surfaces on steering knuckle.
(24) Install the replacement hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle aligning bolt boles in bearing flange with holes in steering knuckle.
(25) Install the 3 mounting bolts (Fig. 73) and tighten evenly to ensure bearing is square to face of steering knuckle. The tighten the 3 mounting bolts
(Fig. 73) to a torque of 110 N·m (80 ft. lbs.).
INSTALL
(1) Slide drive shaft back into front hub/bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud in lower control arm.
(2) Install the steering knuckle to lower ball joint stud castle nut.
(3) Install upper ball joint stud in steering knuckle. Install the steering knuckle to upper ball joint stud castle nut. Using a crow foot and torque wrench, tighten the upper and lower ball joint castle nuts to the following torque specifications. of 100
N·m (75 ft. lbs.).
• Lower ball joint castle nut 74 N·m (55 ft. lbs.).
• Upper ball joint castle nut 62 N·m (45 ft. lbs.).
(4) If equipped with antilock brakes install the speed sensor cable routing bracket on the steering knuckle (Fig. 67) and securely tighten attaching bolt.
CAUTION: When installing tie rod on steering knuckle the heat shield (Fig. 74) must be installed.
If heat shield is not installed, tie rod seal boot can fail due to excessive heat from brake rotor.
Fig. 74 Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut
(6) Install braking disc back on hub and bearing assembly.
(7) Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding top of caliper under top abutment on steering knuckle.
Then installing bottom of caliper against bottom abutment of steering knuckle (Fig. 62).
(8) Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle guide pin bolts (Fig. 61). Tighten caliper assembly guide pin bolts to a torque of 31 N·m (23 ft.
lbs.).
(9) Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and hub nut (Fig. 75) onto the stub axle and tighten nut.
Fig. 75 Front Stub Axle Nut And Washer
BRAKING DISC NUT LOCK AND
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(10) With vehicle brakes applied to keep stub axle from turning, tighten hub nut to a torque of 203 N·m
(150 ft. lbs.) of torque (Fig. 76).
SUSPENSION 2 - 31
The following procedure and special tools shown
MUST be used when replacing wheel attaching studs.
The hub and bearing assembly does not require removal from the steering knuckle to replace wheel attaching studs in the hub and bearing assembly.
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(2) Remove the front wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
(3) Remove front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 78).
Fig. 76 Torquing Front Hub Nut
(11) Install the spring washer, hub nut lock, and a
new cotter pin. Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock (Fig. 77).
Fig. 77 Installing Spring Washer, Nut LockAnd
Cotter Pin
(12) Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install front wheel lug nuts and tighten in correct sequence.
Then tighten to a torque of 129 N·m (95 ft.lbs.).
(13) Lower vehicle.
(14) Set front Toe on vehicle to required specification. Use procedure listed under Wheel Alignment, in the Front Suspension Service Procedures section of this service manual.
WHEEL MOUNTING STUDS
CAUTION: If a wheel mounting stud needs to be replaced in the hub and bearing assembly the studs
CAN NOT be hammered out of the hub flange. If a stud is removed by hammering it out of the bearing flange, damage to the hub and bearing assembly will occur leading to premature bearing failure.
Fig. 78 Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
(4) Remove disc brake caliper assembly from steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first lifting bottom of caliper away from steering knuckle, and then removing top of caliper out from under steering knuckle (Fig. 79).
Fig. 79 Brake Caliper Assembly Removal
AndInstallation
KNUCKLE
ABS SPEED SEN-
SOR CABLE
2 - 32 SUSPENSION
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(5) Support brake caliper/adapter assembly using a wire hook and not by hydraulic hose (Fig. 80).
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Fig. 80 Supporting Brake Caliper
(6) Remove braking disc from front hub (Fig. 81).
Fig. 82 Removing Wheel Stud From Hub
AndBearing
Fig. 81 Removing/Installing Front BrakingDisc
(7) Install a lug nut on wheel stud to be removed from hub and bearing assembly, (Fig. 82) so threads on stud are even with end of lug nut. Rotate hub so stud requiring removal is aligned with notch cast into front of steering knuckle. Install Remover, Special Tool C-4150 on hub and bearing assembly flange and wheel stud (Fig. 82).
(8) Tighten down on special tool, this will push the wheel stud out of the hub and bearing flange.
INSTALL
(1) Install replacement wheel stud into flange of hub and bearing assembly. Install washers on wheel stud, then install a wheel lug nut on stud with flat side of lug nut against washers (Fig. 83).
(2) Tighten the wheel lug nut, pulling the wheel stud into the flange of the hub and bearing assembly.
Fig. 83 Installing Wheel Stud Into Hub
When the head of the stud is fully seated against the bearing flange, remove lug nut and washers from wheel stud.
(3) Install braking disk back on front hub (Fig.
81).
(4) Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding top of caliper under top abutment on steering knuckle.
Then installing bottom of caliper against bottom abutment of steering knuckle (Fig. 79).
(5) Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 78) and torque to 31
N·m (23 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install front wheel lug nuts and torque to 129 N·m (95 ft.lbs.).
(7) Lower vehicle.
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SPECIAL ARM BRACKET
SUSPENSION
ABSORBER
2 - 33
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
SHOCK ABSORBER
DISASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Do not clamp the shock absorber in a vise by the body of the shock absorber. The clevis bracket must be reinstalled on the shock absorber and clamped in the vise using the clevis bracket.
(1) Install clevis bracket back on shock absorber and tighten pinch bolt. Then using the clevis bracket, clamp the shock absorber assembly in vise, with shock absorber in a vertical position (Fig. 84).
Fig. 85 Compressing Shock Absorber Spring
an equivalent (Fig. 86). Then remove the shock absorber shaft nut.
Fig. 84 Shock Absorber Correctly Mounted In Vise
(2) Mark coil spring and shock absorber assembly right or left, according to which side of the vehicle the shock absorber was removed from, and which shock absorber the coil spring was removed from.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE SHOCK
ABSORBER ROD NUT, BEFORE SHOCK
ABSORBER COIL SPRING IS COMPRESSED,
REMOVING SPRING TENSION FROM UPPER CON-
TROL ARM/SHOCK ABSORBER MOUNTING
BRACKET.
Fig. 86 Shock Absorber Shaft Nut Removal/
Installation
(5) Remove the washer (Fig. 87) from the shock absorber rod.
WARNING: WHEN COMPRESSING COIL SPRING
FOR REMOVAL FROM SHOCK ABSORBER, THE
FIRST FULL TOP AND BOTTOM COIL OF THE COIL
SPRING MUST BE CAPTURED BY THE JAWS OF
THE COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR.
(3) Compress shock absorber coil spring, using
Professional Services Equipment Spring Compressor,
GP-2020-C3.5 fitted with the GP-C42 upper spring shoe and GP-A20 lower spring shoe (Fig. 85).
(4) Hold the rod of the shock absorber from rotating using Shock Absorber Socket, Snap-On A136 or
Fig. 87 Shock Absorber Rod Washer
SHOCK ABSORBER ROD MOUNTING BRACKET
2 - 34 SUSPENSION
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
(6) Remove the shock absorber/upper control arm mounting bracket from the shock absorber assembly
(Fig. 88).
SHOCK ISOLATOR SLEEVE
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Fig. 88 Shock Absorber/Upper Control ArmMounting
Bracket
CAUTION: The top and bottom bushings for the shock absorber rod are unique to the position which they are installed on the rod. When removing the bushings from the rod, attention must be paid to their location so they will be installed correctly when shock absorber is assembled.
(7) Remove the shock absorber rod upper isolator bushing (Fig. 89) from the shock absorber/upper control arm mounting bracket.
Fig. 90 Shock Absorber Rod Lower IsolatorBushing
And Sleeve
Fig. 91 Shock Absorber Rod Washer
(11) Remove the dust shield (Fig. 92) from the shock absorber assembly.
Fig. 89 Shock Absorber Rod Upper IsolatorBushing
(8) Remove the shock absorber rod lower isolator bushing and sleeve, (Fig. 90) from the shock absorber/upper control arm mounting bracket. Remove upper spring isolator from mounting bracket.
(9) Remove the lower isolator bushing from the shock absorber rod sleeve.
(10) Remove washer from top of dust shield (Fig.
91).
Fig. 92 Shock Absorber Dust Shield
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DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
(12) Remove the coil spring and spring compressor as an assembly (Fig. 93) from the shock absorber assembly. Mark springs, left and right, for instal- lation back on the correct side of the vehicle.
SUSPENSION 2 - 35
Fig. 93 Shock Absorber Coil Spring And
Compressor
(13) Remove the jounce bumper and sleeve, (Fig.
94) from the rod of the shock absorber assembly.
Fig. 95 Coil Spring Lower Isolator
• Inspect jounce bumper for cracks and signs of deterioration.
(17) Replace any components of the shock absorber assembly found to be worn or defective during the inspection, before re-assembling the shock absorber.
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Do not clamp the shock absorber in a vise by the body of the shock absorber. The clevis bracket must be reinstalled on the shock absorber clamped in the vise using the clevis bracket.
(1) Install clevis bracket back on replacement shock absorber and tighten pinch bolt. Then using the clevis bracket, clamp the shock absorber assembly in a vise, with shock absorber in a vertical position (Fig. 84).
(2) Install the coil spring isolator (Fig. 95) on the lower spring seat of the shock absorber assembly. Isolator must be positioned on lower spring seat as shown in (Fig. 95).
(3) Install jounce bumper on rod of shock absorber assembly (Fig. 96).
Fig. 94 Shock Absorber Jounce Bumper AndSleeve
(14) Remove the coil spring isolator (Fig. 95) from the lower spring seat on the shock absorber assembly.
(15) Inspect the shock absorber for any condition of rod binding over the full stroke of the shock rod.
(16) Inspect the shock mount and upper spring seat/isolator assembly for the following:
• Mount for cracks and distortion and locating studs for any sign of damage.
• Severe deterioration of the upper or lower coil spring isolators.
• Deterioration of the shock absorber rod to shock absorber mounting bracket bushings.
• Inspect dust shield for rips and/or deterioration.
Fig. 96 Jounce Bumper Installation
UNDERCUT SLEEVE
2 - 36 SUSPENSION
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
(4) Install the sleeve, undercut side facing down,
(Fig. 97) on the rod of the shock absorber assembly.
Be sure sleeve is positioned squarely on step of shock absorber rod (Fig. 97).
SHOCK ON ROD SHOCK INSTALL ROD IN THIS
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Fig. 97 Shock Absorber Rod Sleeve Installation
WARNING: IF A REPLACEMENT COIL SPRING IS
TO BE INSTALLED ON THE STRUT ASSEMBLY, THE
FIRST FULL TOP AND BOTTOM COIL OF THE
SPRING MUST BE CAPTURED BY THE JAWS OF
THE COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR.
(5) Install the coil spring (with small diameter coils down) on the shock absorber assembly. Be sure bottom coil of spring is correctly positioned on the lower spring isolator (Fig. 93).
(6) Install dust shield (Fig. 92) on rod of shock absorber assembly.
(7) Install bottom washer (Fig. 91) on rod of shock absorber assembly and on top of dust shield.
CAUTION: The top and bottom shock absorber rod bushings are unique to the position which they are installed on the rod. When installing the bushings on the rod, attention must be paid to their location so they are installed correctly (Fig. 98).
(8) Install the lower isolator bushing and sleeve
(Fig. 90) in the shock absorber/lower control mounting bracket. Install coil spring upper isolator in mounting bracket (Fig. 90).
(9) Install the upper isolator bushing (Fig. 89) on the sleeve and the shock absorber/upper control arm mounting bracket.
(10) Install the shock absorber/upper control arm mounting bracket (Fig. 88) on the shock absorber assembly.
(11) Install the upper washer on rod of shock absorber and position it over top bushing with the word TOP facing up (Fig. 87).
Fig. 98 Upper And Lower Shock Absorber
RodBushing Identification
WARNING: THE FOLLOWING 2 STEPS MUST BE
COMPLETELY DONE BEFORE SPRING COMPRES-
SOR, GP-2020-C3.5
OR AN EQUIVALENT IS
RELEASED FROM THE COIL SPRING.
(12) Install nut on rod of shock absorber assembly.
Install Shock Absorber Socket, Snap-On A136 or an equivalent on end of shock rod to keep rod from turning (Fig. 86) Then tighten rod nut using a crowfoot
(Fig. 86) to a torque of 55 N·m (40 ft. lbs.).
(13) Relieve all tension from spring compressor.
After all spring tension has been remove from the spring compressor, remove it from the shock absorber assembly.
(14) Install shock absorber assembly back in the vehicle. Refer to Shock Absorber Installation in this section of the service manual for the proper procedure
LOWER CONTROL ARM FRONT ISOLATOR
BUSHING
To perform removal and replacement of the lower control arm isolator bushings, the lower control arm must be removed from the vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove lower control arm assembly from vehicle. See Lower Control Arm Removal in this section of the service manual for the required removal procedure.
(2) Install Bushing Remover, Special Tool 6602-5 and Bushing Receiver, Special Tool MB-990799 on
Special Tool C-4212-F.
(3) Install lower control arm on Special Tools assembled for removal of the front isolator bushing.
Be sure Special Tool MB-990799 is square on lower control arm and Special Tool 6602-5 is positioned correctly on isolator bushing (Fig. 99).
SPECIAL MACHINED SURFACE SIDE SPECIAL TOOL 6758
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DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
Fig. 99 Removing Front Bushing From
LowerControl Arm
(4) Tighten screw on Remover/Installer Special
Tool C-4212-F to press front bushing out of lower control arm.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Mount Bushing Installer, Special Tool 6876 on screw portion of Remover/Installer Special Tool
C-4212-F (Fig. 100).
(2) Start front bushing into lower control arm by hand, making sure it is square with its mount-
ing hole in the lower control arm. Bushing is to be installed in lower control arm from the machined surface side of lower control arm bushing hole.
(3) Install lower control arm on Special Tools assembled for installation of front isolator bushing into lower control arm (Fig. 100). Be sure Special
Tool 6758 is square on lower control arm and Special
Tool 6876 is positioned correctly on isolator bushing.
SUSPENSION 2 - 37
(4) Tighten screw on Remover/Installer Special
Tool C-4212-F pressing front bushing into lower control arm. Continue pressing front bushing into lower control arm until bushing is sitting flush on the machined surface of the lower control arm. This will correctly position front bushing in lower control arm.
(5) Install lower control arm assembly back on vehicle. See Lower Control Arm Installation in this section of the service manual for the required installation procedure.
LOWER CONTROL ARM REAR ISOLATOR BUSHING
To perform removal and replacement of the lower control arm isolator bushings, the lower control arm must be removed from the vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove lower control arm assembly from vehicle. See Lower Control Arm Removal in this section of the service manual for the required removal procedure.
(2) Install Bushing Remover, Special Tool 6756 and
Bushing Receiver, Special Tool C-4366-2 on Special
Tool C-4212-F (Fig. 101).
(3) Install Special Tools assembled for removal of the rear isolator bushing on the lower control arm.
Be sure Special Tool C-4366-2 is square on lower control arm and Special Tool 6756 is positioned correctly on isolator bushing (Fig. 101).
Fig. 100 Installing Front Bushing In LowerControl
Arm
Fig. 101 Removing Lower Control Arm Rear
Bushing
(4) Tighten screw on Remover/Installer Special
Tool C-4212-F to press rear bushing out of lower control arm.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Start rear bushing into lower control arm by hand, making sure it is square with its mount-
ing hole in the lower control arm. Bushing is to be installed from the machined surface side of lower
2 - 38 SUSPENSION
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued) control arm bushing hole, with the void in rubber portion of bushing facing away from ball joint (Fig.
102).
(5) Install lower control arm assembly back on vehicle. See Lower Control Arm Installation in this section of the service manual for the required installation procedure.
Fig. 102 Correctly Positioned Rear IsolatorBushing
In Control Arm
(2) Mount Bushing Installer, Special Tool 6760 on screw portion of Remover/Installer Special Tool
C-4212-F (Fig. 103).
(3) Install Special Tools assembled for installation of rear isolator bushing into lower control arm on the lower control arm. Be sure Special Tool 6756 is square on lower control arm and Special Tool 6760 is positioned correctly on isolator bushing (Fig. 103).
CONTROL ARM CLEVIS BUSHING
To perform removal and replacement of the lower control arm clevis bushing, the lower control arm must be removed from the vehicle.
DISASSEMBLE
(1) Remove lower control arm assembly from vehicle. See Lower Control Arm Removal in this section of the service manual for the required removal procedure.
(2) Install Bushing Remover, Special Tool 6877 and
Bushing Receiver, Special Tool 6876 on Special Tool
C-4212-F.
(3) Install lower control arm on Special Tools assembled for removal of the clevis isolator bushing.
Be sure Special Tool 6876 is square on lower control arm and Special Tool 6877 is positioned correctly on clevis bushing (Fig. 104).
Fig. 103 Installing Rear Bushing In LowerControl
Arm
(4) Tighten screw on Remover/Installer Special
Tool C-4212-F pressing rear bushing into lower control arm. Continue pressing rear bushing into lower control arm until bushing is sitting flush on the machined surface (Fig. 103) of the lower control arm.
This will correctly position rear bushing in lower control arm.
Fig. 104 Removing Clevis Bushing From
LowerControl Arm
(4) Tighten screw on Remover/Installer Special
Tool C-4212-F to press clevis bushing out of lower control arm.
ASSEMBLE
(1) Start clevis bushing into lower control arm by hand, making sure it is square with its mount-
ing hole in the lower control arm. Bushing is to be installed in lower control arm from the machined surface side of lower control arm bushing hole.
(2) Mount Bushing Installer, Special Tool 6877 on screw portion of Remover/Installer Special Tool
C-4212-F as shown in (Fig. 105).
(3) Install the assembled special tools for installing the clevis bushing into the lower control arm, on the
SPECIAL MACHINED SURFACE SIDE
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued) lower control arm and clevis bushing (Fig. 105). Be sure Special Tool 6876 is square on lower control arm and Special Tool 6877 is positioned correctly on clevis bushing (Fig. 105).
SUSPENSION 2 - 39
CAUTION: The procedure below must be carefully followed when replacing the ball joint seal in the event it is damaged while servicing a vehicle.
CAUTION: The ball joint used in the lower control arm of this vehicle is a lubricated for life ball joint.
This ball joint does not required any additional lubrication for the life of the vehicle. Do not alter the lower control arm or ball joint in an attempt to lubricate the lower control arm ball joint. If it is determined that the ball joint is lacking proper lubrication, the lower control arm will need to be replaced.
Fig. 105 Installing Clevis Bushing In LowerControl
Arm
(4) Tighten screw on Remover/Installer Special
Tool C-4212-F pressing clevis bushing into lower control arm. Continue pressing clevis bushing into lower control arm until bushing is sitting flush with the machined surface of the lower control arm. This will correctly position the clevis bushing in the lower control arm.
(5) Install lower control arm assembly back on vehicle. See Lower Control Arm Installation in this section of the service manual for the required installation procedure.
LOWER BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT
CAUTION: The replacement of the lower ball joint seal boot can only be done in the event that the seal boot is damaged while performing a service procedure on the vehicle.
CAUTION: Under no circumstances can a lower ball joint seal boot be replaced if it is determined that the vehicle had been driven with the seal boot damaged. If the vehicle has been driven with a damaged seal boot contamination of the ball joint has occurred. When contamination of the ball joint has occurred the lower control arm must be replaced.
This is to ensure excessive wear of the ball joint does not occur from the contamination present in the ball joint.
CAUTION: Excessive wear in the ball joint can lead to a separation of the ball joint from the lower control arm.
DISASSEMBLE
(1) Remove lower control arm assembly from vehicle. See Lower Control Arm Removal in this section of the service manual for the required removal procedure.
(2) Wrap a shop towel around the ball joint and seal boot. This is to prevent dirt and cleaning solvent to enter ball joint when cleaning area around ball joint.
(3) Using ONLY a solvent such as Mopar Foamy
Engine Degreaser or an equivalent, thoroughly clean lower control arm in area around ball joint and seal.
Then using a shop towel saturated with the engine degreaser, carefully wipe off the ball joint seal boot.
(4) Using 2 screwdrivers (Fig. 106) remove the ball joint seal retaining ring from the bottom of the ball joint seal.
Fig. 106 Removing Ball Joint Seal RetainingRing
(5) Remove ball joint seal from ball joint.
ASSEMBLE
CAUTION: When replacing ball joint seal, do not use any other type of grease to lubricate ball joint other than the lubricant provided in the Mopar Ball
Joint Seal service kit.
JOINT
2 - 40 SUSPENSION
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
(1) Apply grease from the ball joint seal kit, to the specified areas of the ball joint stud and seal (Fig.
107). Be sure no grease is present on the seal boot installation section of the seal boot or lower control arm (Fig. 107).
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Fig. 107 Grease Correctly Applied To BallJoint Stud
And Seal Boot
(2) Slide ball joint seal boot with upper seal ring installed, (Fig. 107) down tapered section of ball joint stud (Fig. 107). Seal boot is to be installed on stud of ball joint until seal boot is sitting on seal groove in lower control arm.
(3) Carefully position ball joint seal boot in seal retaining groove on lower control arm. After installing seal boot in retaining groove, carefully bleed air out of sealing boot without getting grease pushed into seal boot retaining groove in lower control arm.
(4) Place Retaining Ring Installer, Special Tool,
6875-1 over ball joint seal boot (Fig. 108). Using adjusting knob, adjust tool so bottom edge of tool is even with top of retaining ring groove in seal boot
(Fig. 108).
(5) Place seal boot retaining ring on Installer, Special Tool, 6875- 1 (Fig. 109). Then place expandable collar from Installer, Special Tool, 6875 over tapered cone of the special tool (Fig. 109).
(6) Using the expandable collar of Installer, Special Tool, 6875 (Fig. 110) push the seal boot retaining ring down the cone of Installer, Special Tool, 6875.
Fig. 108 Correctly Installed Ball Joint SealRetaining
Ring Tool
Fig. 109 Retaining Ring And Expandable
CollarInstalled On Tool
SEAL BOOT
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
SUSPENSION 2 - 41
Fig. 110 Installing Seal Boot Retaining Ring
(7) Continue pushing retaining ring down
Installer, Special Tool, 6875, until it is installed in the retaining ring groove of the seal boot (Fig. 111)
Fig. 112 Properly Installed Ball Joint SealBoot
UPPER BALL JOINT SEAL BOOT
(1) Using a screw driver or other suitable tool, pry seal boot off of the ball joint assembly (Fig. 113).
Fig. 111 Retaining Ring Installed In BallJoint Seal
Boot
(8) Remove Installer, Special Tool, 6875 from the ball joint seal boot. When removing tool from seal boot be careful not to damage the seal boot with the tool.
(9) Check retaining ring installation on seal boot to ensure it is fully seated in seal boot groove and the ends are not twisted (Fig. 112). Also, make sure upper sealing ring is on seal boot and correctly installed (Fig. 112). Check seal boot for damage before installing back on car.
(10) Install lower control arm assembly back on vehicle. See Lower Control Arm Installation in this section of the service manual for the required installation procedure.
Fig. 113 Seal Boot Removal From Ball Joint
(2) Install a NEW ball joint assembly sealing boot on ball joint assembly. Install sealing boot as far as possible on ball joint assembly.
CAUTION: Do not use an arbor press to install the sealing boot on the upper control arm ball joint assembly. Damage to the sealing boot can occur do to excessive pressure applied to sealing boot when being installed.
(3) Position Receiving Cup, Special Tool 6758 over sealing boot so it is aligned properly with bottom edge of sealing boot (Fig. 114). Apply pressure BY
HAND to special tool 6758, until sealing boot is pressed squarely against surface of upper control arm.
(4) Properly lubricate the upper ball joint assembly using only Mopar Multi-Mileage Lube or an equivalent.
2 - 42 SUSPENSION
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
Fig. 114 Seal Boot Installation On Ball Joint
STABILIZER BAR BUSHING
(1) Bend back the 4 crimp locations on the stabilizer bar bushing retainer (Fig. 115).
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SPECIFICATIONS
FRONT SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Shock Absorber
To Clevis Pinch Bolt . . . . . . . . . . 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.)
To Shock Tower Bolts . . . . . . . . . 90 N·m (68 ft. lbs.)
Clevis To Control Arm Bolt . . . . . 90 N·m (68 ft. lbs.)
Rod To Upper Mount Nut . . . . . . 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Steering Gear Assembly
Tie Rod To Steering Knuckle Nut . . . . . . . . . 61 N·m
(45 ft. lbs.)
To Suspension Crossmember Bolts . . . . . . . . 68 N·m
(50 ft. lbs.)
Tie Rod End Adjustment Jam Nuts . . . . . . . 61 N·m
(45 ft. lbs.)
Lower Control Arm
Ball Joint Stud Castle Nut . . . . . 74 N·m (55 ft. lbs.)
To Crossmember Pivot Bolt (Front) . . . . . . 182 N·m
(135 ft. lbs.)
To Crossmember Rear Bolt . . . . 115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.)
Upper Control Arm
Ball Joint Stud Castle Nut . . . . . 62 N·m (55 ft. lbs.)
To Upper Shock Bracket . . . . . . . 90 N·m (67 ft. lbs.)
Front Suspension Crossmember
To Body Mounting Bolts . . . . . 163 N·m (120 ft. lbs.)
Hub And Bearing Assembly
To Stub Axle Retaining Nut . . 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.)
Wheel Stud Lug Nut . . 109-150 N.m (80-110 ft. lbs.)
Stabilizer Bar
Bushing Clamp Bolts . . . . . . . . . 55 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Attaching Link Nuts (All) . . . . . 105 N·m (78 ft. lbs.)
Steering Knuckle
Disc Brake Caliper Bolts . . . . . . 22 N·m (16 ft. lbs.)
Fig. 115 Stabilizer Bar Bushing Retainer
(2) Separate the stabilizer bar bushing retainer.
(3) Stabilizer bar bushings are removed by opening slit and peeling bushing off stabilizer bar.
(4) Install new stabilizer bar bushings on the stabilizer bar. Bushings must be installed on sway bar with slit in bushing facing front of vehicle when sway bar is installed.
(5) Install bushing retainers back on stabilizer bar bushings.
JA
SPECIAL TOOLS
FRONT SUSPENSION
SUSPENSION 2 - 43
Remover, Ball Joint MB-990799
Puller C-3894-A
Remover/Installer Control Arm Bushing6602–5 (In
Tool Kit 6602)
Installer, Ball Joint 6758
Press, Ball Joint Remover InstallerC-4212F
Installer/Receiver, Control Arm Bushing6876
Installer, Ball Joint 6758
2 - 44 SUSPENSION
SPECIAL TOOLS (Continued)
JA
Remover / Installer C-4366-2 (InTool Kit C-4366) Installer, Ball Joint Seal Boot Retainer6875
Receiver, Ball Joint 6756 Remover, Tie Rod End MB-991113 orMB-990635
Installer, Bushing 6760
Remover/Installer Control Arm ClevisBushing 6877
Remover, Lower Ball Joint C-4150A
JA
SUSPENSION 2 - 45
REAR SUSPENSION
GENERAL INFORMATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
LATERAL ARMS AND TRAILING LINKS
. . . . . . 47
. . . . . . 47
REAR SUSPENSION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION . 45
. . . . . . . . . . . 45
STABILIZER BAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
UPPER CONTROL ARM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
LATERAL LINKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
SHOCK ABSORBER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
STABILIZER BAR AND BUSHINGS . . . . . . . . . . 48
STABILIZER BAR ATTACHING LINKS . . . . . . . . 48
SUSPENSION KNUCKLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
UPPER BALL JOINT WEAR INSPECTION
. . . . 47
UPPER CONTROL ARM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
INDEX
page page
SERVICE PROCEDURES
REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
LATERAL LINKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
. . . . . . 57
SHOCK ABSORBER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
STABILIZER BAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
UPPER BALL JOINT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
UPPER CONTROL ARM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
SHOCK ABSORBER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
SPECIFICATIONS
REAR SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
SPECIAL TOOLS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
GENERAL INFORMATION
GENERAL INFORMATION
CAUTION: Only frame contact or wheel lift hoisting equipment can be used on vehicles having a fully independent rear suspension. Vehicles with independent rear suspension can not be hoisted using equipment designed to lift a vehicle by the rear axle. If this type of hoisting equipment is used damage to rear suspension components will occur.
NOTE: If a rear suspension component becomes bent, damaged or fails, no attempt should be made to straighten or repair it. Always replace with a new component.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
REAR SUSPENSION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension used on this vehicle is a fully independent short and long arm style suspension
(Fig. 1).
SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEMBLY
The rear shock absorber assemblies support the weight of the vehicle using coil springs positioned around the shock absorbers. The coil springs are contained between the upper mount of the shock absorber and a lower spring seat on the body of the shock absorber.
The top of each shock absorber assembly is bolted to the top of the inner fender through a rubber isolated mount.
The bottom of the shock absorber assembly attaches to the rear knuckle using a thru-bolt.
UPPER CONTROL ARM
An upper control arm is attached to the top of each rear knuckle, connecting the knuckle to the rear suspension crossmember. The attachment of the upper control arm to the knuckle is achieved through a ball joint in the upper control arm. The ball joint is pressed into the upper control arm and is attached to the knuckle using a tapered stud and a castle nut.
The upper control arm is bolted to the rear suspension crossmember using a pivot bar which is rubber isolated from the upper control arm.
The upper control arms have rubber bushings at the rear suspension crossmember end and a ball joint at the rear knuckle.
2 - 46 SUSPENSION
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
JA
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
COIL SPRING
Rear coil springs are rated separately for each corner or side of the vehicle depending on optional equipment and type of vehicle service. During service procedures when both rear coil springs are removed, mark the coil springs to ensure installation of the springs in their original position. If coil springs require replacement, be sure the springs needing replacement, are replaced with springs meeting the correct load rating for the vehicle and its specific options.
SUSPENSION 2 - 47
Lateral links, trailing arms and knuckles are normally replaced only when the part has been damaged or when the vehicle has been involved in an accident.
If a suspension part has been damaged, be sure to check the underbody dimensions of the car. If the underbody dimensions are not correct, the frame of the vehicle must be straightened, before replacement suspension components are installed.
REAR SUSPENSION CROSSMEMBER
This vehicle is equipped with a bolt in type rear suspension crossmember. The crossmember on this vehicle is the same for all of the optional suspensions that are available on the vehicle.
STABILIZER BAR
The stabilizer bar interconnects the forward lateral links of the vehicle’s rear suspension and is attached to the rear suspension crossmember of the vehicle.
Jounce and rebound movements affecting one rear wheel of the vehicle are partially transmitted to the opposite wheel of the vehicle to stabilize body roll.
Attachment of the stabilizer bar to the rear crossmember of the vehicle is through 2 rubber-isolator bushings and bushing retainers. The stabilizer bar to lateral arm attachment is done utilizing a rubber isolated stabilizer bar attaching link. All parts of the stabilizer bar are serviceable, and the stabilizer bar to rear suspension isolator bushings are split for easy removal and installation. The split in the stabilizer bar to crossmember bushing must be positioned toward the front of the vehicle, when the stabilizer bar is installed on the vehicle.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
SHOCK ABSORBER
(1) Inspect for damaged or broken coil springs.
(2) Inspect for torn or damaged shock absorber dust boots.
(3) Inspect for damaged lower spring isolator.
(4) Lift dust boot and inspect shock absorber for evidence of fluid running from the upper end of fluid reservoir. (Actual leakage will be a stream of fluid running down the side and dripping off lower end of unit). A slight amount of seepage between the shock absorber rod and shock absorber rod seal is not unusual and does not affect performance of the shock absorber. Also inspect jounce bumpers for signs of damage or deterioration.
KNUCKLE
A cast iron rear knuckle is attached to the upper control arm by the upper ball joint and to the rear shock absorber assembly. The lateral movement of the rear knuckle is controlled using two lateral arms attached to the bottom of the knuckle and by the upper control arm attached to the top of the knuckle.
The outboard ends of the two lateral arms are mounted forward and rearward of the knuckle centerline, and the inboard ends are mounted to the rear suspension crossmember. Fore and aft movement of the knuckle is controlled by the trailing link.
SUSPENSION KNUCKLE
The rear suspension knuckle is not a repairable component of the rear suspension. If it is determined that the knuckle is broken or bent when servicing the vehicle, no attempt is to be made to repair or to straighten the knuckle. THE KNUCKLE MUST BE
REPLACED IF FOUND TO BE DAMAGED IN
ANY WAY.
LATERAL ARMS AND TRAILING LINKS
The lateral movement of the rear knuckle is controlled by the lateral arms going from the front and rear of the knuckle to the rear suspension crossmember. Fore and aft movement of the knuckle is controlled by a trailing link.
The lateral arms and trailing link have rubber isolator bushings at each end to isolate suspension noise from the body of the vehicle.
The trailing link bolts to the bottom of the knuckle and to a bracket attached to the floor pan of the vehicle.
UPPER CONTROL ARM
The rear suspension upper control arm is not a repairable component of the rear suspension. When diagnosing a condition with the rear suspension of the vehicle it is determined that the upper control arm is broken or bent, the upper control arm MUST be replaced. No attempt is to be made to repair or to straighten the upper control arm. THE UPPER
CONTROL ARM MUST BE REPLACED IF
FOUND TO BE DAMAGED IN ANY WAY.
UPPER BALL JOINT WEAR INSPECTION
With the weight of the vehicle resting on the road wheels, grasp grease fitting and with no mechanical
ABSORBER ING
2 - 48 SUSPENSION
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued) assistance or added force attempt to move the grease fitting.
If the ball joint is worn the grease fitting will move easily. If movement is noted, replacement of the ball joint is required.
LATERAL LINKS
Inspect the lateral link isolator bushings and sleeves for signs of damage or deterioration. If the lateral link isolator bushings or sleeves are damaged or are deteriorated, replacement of the lateral link assembly will be required. The isolator bushings are not serviceable as a separate component of the lateral link assembly.
Inspect the lateral links for signs of contact with the ground or road debris which has bent or caused other damage to the lateral link. If the lateral link is bent or damaged, the lateral link will require replacement.
Do not attempt to repair or straighten a lateral link.
CAUTION: Do not apply heat to the lateral link adjusting screws or to the jam nuts, when loosening or adjusting the lateral links.
JA
SERVICE PROCEDURES
REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Refer to Front And Rear Wheel Toe Setting Procedures in the Wheel Alignment Check And Adjustment section in this group of the service manual for the required rear wheel Toe setting procedure.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
SHOCK ABSORBER
NOTE: Access for the bolts attaching the rear shock absorber upper mount is from inside the trunk.
REMOVE
(1) Roll back carpeting on top of rear shock tower to access shock mounting bolts.
(2) Remove plastic cover from the top of the shock tower (Fig. 2).
TRAILING LINKS
Inspect the trailing link bushings and retainers for signs of deterioration or damage. If the trailing link bushings are deteriorated or the retainers are damaged, replacement of the trailing link bushings and or the retainers will be required. The bushings and retainers are serviceable as separate components of the trailing link.
Inspect the trailing link for signs of contact with the ground or road debris which has bent or caused other damage to the trailing link. If the trailing link is bent or damaged the trailing link will require replacement. Do not ever attempt to repair or straighten a trailing link.
STABILIZER BAR AND BUSHINGS
Inspect the stabilizer bar for damage or bending.
Inspect for broken or distorted stabilizer bar bushings, bushing retainers, and worn or damaged stabilizer bar to lateral arm attaching links. If stabilizer bar to crossmember bushing replacement is required, bushings can be removed from sway bar by opening slit and peeling bushing off sway bar.
STABILIZER BAR ATTACHING LINKS
Inspect the bushings and sleeves in the stabilizer bar attaching links for damage or deterioration.
Inspect the stabilizer bar attaching link to ensure it is not bent or broken. If any of these conditions are present when inspecting the attaching links, replacement of the attaching link is required.
Fig. 2 Shock Absorber Assembly Cover
(3) Remove the 2 nuts (Fig. 3) attaching the shock absorber upper mount/spring seat to the shock tower.
(4) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(5) Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
(6) Remove bolt attaching shock absorber to rear knuckle (Fig. 4).
(7) Remove the shock absorber from the rear knuckle first, when removing the shock absorber from vehicle by pushing down on the rear suspension.
SHOCK
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
SUSPENSION 2 - 49
Fig. 3 Shock Absorber Upper Mount AttachingNuts
Fig. 4 Shock Absorber Attachment To Knuckle
(8) Move shock absorber downward and tilt top of shock outward. Then remove shock absorber from vehicle through top of wheel opening (Fig. 5).
Fig. 5 Shock Absorber Removal
INSTALL
(1) Install shock absorber back in vehicle using the reverse sequence of removal (Fig. 5).
(2) Install upper shock absorber mount into the mounting holes in rear shock tower.
(3) Push down on rear knuckle to obtain clearance and then install shock absorber clevis bracket on rear knuckle.
(4) Align clevis bracket on shock absorber with bushing in knuckle. Install and tighten bolt (Fig. 4) to a torque of 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).
(5) Lower vehicle far enough to gain access to the trunk.
(6) Install and tighten the 2 shock absorber mounting bracket attaching nuts (Fig. 3) to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install plastic cover on shock tower (Fig. 2).
(8) Install carpeting back on shock tower.
(9) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Then torque all wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat tightening sequence to full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
(10) Lower vehicle to the ground.
COIL SPRINGS
Coil springs are rated separately for each side of vehicle depending on optional equipment and type of service.
During service procedures where both springs are removed, mark springs (Chalk, Tape, etc.) to ensure installation in original position. If the coils springs require replacement, be sure that the springs being replaced, are replaced with springs meeting the correct load and spring rate for the vehicle.
NOTE: During service procedures requiring removal or installation of a coil spring, be sure that the first full top and bottom coil of the spring is captured by the jaws of spring compressor.
Replacement of the coil spring requires removal of the shock absorber from the vehicle, and the disassembly of the shock absorber. Refer to shock absorber in the removal and installation section in this group of the service manual for the required removal and replacement procedure. Then refer to shock absorber in the disassembly and assembly section in this group of the service manual for the required procedure to disassemble and assemble the shock absorber.
STABILIZER BAR
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubri-
PARK BRAKE CABLE SUSPENSION ATTACHINGBOLT ATTACHING CORRECTLY STABILIZER INCORRECTLY STABILIZER
2 - 50 SUSPENSION
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued) cation and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(2) Remove both rear wheel and tire assemblies from the vehicle.
(3) Remove the nuts (Fig. 6) attaching the stabilizer links/isolator bushings to the stabilizer bar.
INSTALL
(1) Install stabilizer bar back in vehicle with the bushings removed using the reverse sequence of removal.
(2) When stabilizer bar is installed in vehicle, it must be installed with the bend in the end of the stabilizer bar positioned up in vehicle when viewed from the side (Fig. 8).
Fig. 6 Stabilizer Bar Attaching Link
(4) Remove the 4 bolts attaching the stabilizer bar bushing clamps to the rear suspension crossmember
(Fig. 7).
Fig. 7 Stabilizer Bar Attachment To RearSuspension
(5) Remove the rear stabilizer bar to crossmember bushing clamps and bushings from the stabilizer bar.
(6) Remove stabilizer bar from vehicle. Stabilizer bar will come out of vehicle between the exhaust pipe and the rear suspension crossmember.
STABILIZER BAR BUSHING INSPECTION
Inspect for broken or distorted retainers and bushings. If bushing replacement is required, bushings can be removed by opening slit in bushing and removing bushing from around stabilizer bar.
Fig. 8 Installed Position Of StabilizerBar In Vehicle
(3) Install the stabilizer bar onto the stabilizer bar to forward lateral link attaching links. Install the stabilizer bar to attaching link bushings on attaching links. Tighten the bushing retaining nuts to a torque of 32 N·m (24 ft. lbs.).
(4) Loosely install the stabilizer bar bushing clamps on the rear suspension crossmember
(5) Position stabilizer bar so it is centered in the vehicle and does not contact other suspension components or vehicle body.
(6) Tighten bolts attaching stabilizer bar bushing clamps to the rear crossmember to a torque of 28
N·m (250 in. lbs.) (Fig. 7).
(7) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
(8) Lower vehicle to the ground.
KNUCKLE
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(2) Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
BRAKE DRUM ING LEVER BOLT
TRAILING BRAKE
SHOE
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(3) Remove rear brake drum from rear hub and bearing assembly.
(4) If vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes remove the rear wheel speed sensor from the brake support plate and brake flex hose routing bracket
(Fig. 9).
BRAKE
SUSPENSION 2 - 51
Fig. 11 Park Brake Cable Removal From
BrakeSupport Plate
Fig. 9 Rear Wheel Speed Cable Routing
AndAttachment
(5) Remove the park brake cable from the park brake actuating lever (Fig. 10). Then remove the park brake cable from the rear brake support plate
(Fig. 11). Park brake cable is removed from brake support plate using this procedure. Position a 1/2 inch box end wrench over cable retainer (Fig. 11) to collapse retaining tabs. Then pull bear brake cable from brake support plate.
Fig. 12 Hub/Bearing Assembly Retaining Nut
remove brake flex hose from wheel cylinder
when removing support plate. Brake support plate when removed, must be supported using mechanics wire as shown in (Fig. 14).
Fig. 10 Park Brake Cable Attachment To
ActuatingLever
(6) Remove the rear hub/bearing assembly retaining nut (Fig. 12). Then remove the washer and the hub/bearing assembly from the knuckle.
(7) Remove the 4 bolts (Fig. 13) attaching rear brake support plate to knuckle. Then remove brake support plate, brake shoes and wheel cylinder as an assembly from rear knuckle. It is not necessary to
Fig. 13 Rear Brake Support Plate MountingBolts
REAR SHOCK BRAKE
2 - 52 SUSPENSION
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
SPECIAL TOOL
JA
Fig. 14 Correctly Stored Rear Brake SupportPlate
(8) Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the forward and rear lateral links (Fig. 15) to the rear knuckle.
Fig. 16 Removing Ball Joint Stud From Knuckle
Fig. 17 Trailing Link Attachment To RearKnuckle
Fig. 15 Lateral Link Attachment To Rear Knuckle
(9) Remove cotter pin and castle nut attaching upper control arm ball joint to knuckle.
(10) Remove ball joint stud from knuckle using
Puller, Special Tool, CT-1106 (Fig. 16). When using puller, install castle nut on ball joint stud (Fig. 16) to protect threads from damage.
(11) Remove the nut and washer attaching the trailing link to the rear knuckle. Use a wrench on the flat of the trailing link to keep it from turning when removing nut (Fig. 17).
(12) Remove the shock absorber clevis bracket to knuckle attaching nut and bolt (Fig. 18).
(13) Remove the knuckle assembly from the vehicle.
INSTALL
(1) Install knuckle on clevis bracket of rear shock absorber.
Then install clevis bracket to shock absorber attaching bolt with head of bolt facing rear of vehicle (Fig. 18).
Fig. 18 Shock Absorber Attachment To Knuckle
TRAILING LINK INNER TRAILING
OUTER TRAILING LINK
BUSHING
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
CAUTION: The inner and outer bushing location on the trailing link to rear knuckle attachment is important. Do not interchange the inner and outer bushing location when installing knuckle back on trailing link. Also, when installing trailing link bushing retainers, retainers must be installed with cupped side of retainer facing away from bushing and knuckle (Fig. 19).
(2) Install knuckle on trailing link. Then install the outer trailing link bushing, bushing retainer and retaining nut on trailing link (Fig. 19). Using a large adjustable wrench, to keep trailing link from rotating securely tighten the trailing link retaining nut (Fig.
19) to a torque of 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).
SPEED
SUSPENSION 2 - 53
Fig. 19 Trailing Link Bushing And
RetainerInstallation
(3) Install upper ball joint stud in knuckle. Install and tighten the ball joint stud castle nut to a torque of 67 N·m (50 ft. lbs.). Install cotter pin in ball joint stud.
(4) Install the front and rear lateral links and attaching nuts and bolts on the knuckle (Fig. 15)
Tighten the lateral links to knuckle attaching bolts and nuts to 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install rear brake support plate assembly onto the knuckle. Install the 4 bolts (Fig. 13) attaching rear brake support plate to rear knuckle. Tighten the attaching bolts to a torque of 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.).
(6) If vehicle is equipped with ABS brakes, install speed sensor head into rear brake support plate (Fig.
20). Torque speed sensor head mounting bolt to 7
N·m (60 in. lbs.).
(7) Attach routing bracket for speed sensor cable to brake flex hose bracket and securely tighten attaching bolt (Fig. 9).
(8) Install park brake cable into brake support plate. Ensure cable retainer is securely holding cable to support plate. Then connect park brake cable to park brake lever on brake shoe.
Fig. 20 Speed Sensor Head Attachment To
BrakeSupport Plate
(9) Install rear hub and bearing assembly on knuckle and install hub and bearing assembly retaining nut. Tighten retaining nut to a torque of 250 N·m
(185 ft. lbs).
(10) Install the brake drum on the hub/bearing assembly.
(11) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Check and reset rear wheel alingment to specifications if required. Refer to Front And Rear Toe
Setting Procedure in the Wheel Alignment Check
And Adjustment section in this group of the service manual for the required alignment setting procedure.
UPPER CONTROL ARM
The rear control arm, control arm bushings, and pivot bar are serviced as a complete assembly on this vehicle. Do not attempt to disassemble the control arm from the pivot bar to service the rear control arm bushings.
The rear ball joint and ball joint seal are replaceable components of the rear control arm assembly.
The ball joint and ball joint seal are to be replaced with the control arm removed from the vehicle.
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(2) Remove both rear wheel and tire assemblies from the vehicle.
2 - 54 SUSPENSION
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(3) Remove the shock absorber clevis bracket to rear knuckle attaching bolt and nut (Fig. 21) on both sides of the vehicle.
BALL TRANSMISSION
REAR
SPECIAL TOOL
SUSPENSION
CROSSMEMBER
JA
Fig. 21 Shock Absorber To Knuckle Attaching
(4) Remove muffler support bracket from rear frame rail (Fig. 22).
Fig. 23 Exhaust Pipe Hanger At Rear
SuspensionCrossmember
Fig. 24 Ball Joint Stud Removal From Knuckle
Fig. 22 Muffler Support Bracket
(5) Remove the rear exhaust pipe hanger bracket from the rear suspension crossmember (Fig. 23). Let exhaust system drop down as far as possible.
(6) On only the side of the vehicle requiring control arm removal, separate the control arm ball joint from the rear knuckle using following procedure.
• Remove cotter pin and castle nut attaching upper control arm ball joint to knuckle.
•
Remove ball joint stud from knuckle using
Puller, Special Tool, CT- 1106 (Fig. 24). When using puller, install castle nut on ball joint stud to protect threads from damage.
(7) Position a transmission jack and wooden block under the center of the rear suspension crossmember to support and lower crossmember during removal
(Fig. 25).
Fig. 25 Lowering And Supporting Rear
SuspensionCrossmember
ARM BRACKET
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(8) If vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes, remove routing clips for wheel speed sensor cable from brackets on both upper control arms (Fig. 26).
POSITIONING REAR SUSPENSION
UPPER CONTROL ARM PIVOT
BAR
SUSPENSION 2 - 55
Fig. 26 Speed Sensor Cable Attachment ToControl
Arm
(9) Remove the 4 bolts (Fig. 27) attaching rear suspension crossmember to rear frame rails.
Fig. 28 Upper Control Arm Attachment To
Crossmember
attaching bolts (Fig. 28) to a torque of 107 N·m (79 ft. lbs.).
(2) Using transmission jack, raise rear suspension crossmember up to the rear frame rails and loosely install the 4 attaching bolts (Fig. 27).
(3) Position an appropriate size drift into the positioning hole in each side of rear suspension crossmember and crossmember locating holes in frame rails of the vehicle (Fig. 29). This is required to properly position rear suspension crossmember in the body of the vehicle. Then tighten the 4 crossmember to frame rail attaching bolts to 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).
Remove drifts from rear suspension crossmember.
Fig. 27 Crossmember Attachment To Frame Rails
CAUTION: When lowering rear suspension crossmember do not put a strain on the rear brake flex hoses.
(10) Lower the rear suspension crossmember far enough to access the upper control arm pivot bar to crossmember attaching bolts. Remove the 2 bolts
(Fig. 28) attaching the upper control arm to the rear suspension crossmember.
(11) Remove the upper control arm from the vehicle.
(12) Transfer any required components to the replacement control arm.
INSTALL
(1) Align the upper control arm pivot bar with the mounting holes in the rear suspension crossmember.
Install and tighten the 2 pivot bar to crossmember
Fig. 29 Locating Rear Suspension CrossmemberIn
Vehicle
(4) Install upper ball joint stud in knuckle. Install and tighten the ball joint stud castle nut to a torque of 67 N·m (50 ft. lbs.). Install cotter pin in ball joint stud.
(5) Remove transmission jack supporting rear suspension crossmember.
2 - 56 SUSPENSION
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(6) Install muffler support bracket on rear frame rail (Fig. 22). Install rear exhaust pipe hanger on rear suspension crossmember (Fig. 23).
(7) If vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes, install the wheel speed sensor cable routing clip on upper control arm mounting bracket. Install and securely tighten attaching bolt (Fig. 26).
(8) Install the shock absorber clevis brackets (Fig.
21) on the rear knuckles.
(9) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
(10) Lower vehicle to the ground.
(11) Check and reset if required, rear wheel Camber and Toe to preferred specifications.
UPPER BALL JOINT
The ball joints are replaceable ONLY as an assembly, do not attempt any type of repair on the ball joint assembly. The replacement procedure for the ball joint assembly is detailed in this section of the service manual.
The ball joint housing is a pressed fit into the control arm with the joint stud retained in the knuckle by a castle nut. The castle nut is retained on the ball joint stud by a cotter pin.
The procedure for the removal and replacement of the rear control arm ball joint must be done with the rear control arm removed from the vehicle. The ball joint will require the use of an arbor press to remove and install it on the control arm. For the required procedure to remove and install the rear control arm, refer to Rear Control Arm Service Procedures in this group of the service manual.
Fig. 30 Ball Joint Seal Boot Removal
Fig. 31 Removing Ball Joint From Upper
ControlArm
bly (Fig. 32).
REMOVE
(1) Using a screw driver or other suitable tool, pry seal boot up and off of ball joint assembly (Fig. 30).
(2) Position Receiving Cup, Special Tool 6758 to support control arm when removing ball joint assembly (Fig. 31). Install Remover/Installer, Special Tool
6804 on top of ball joint assembly (Fig. 31).
(3) Using an arbor press, press the ball joint assembly out of the control arm.
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INSTALL
(1) By hand, position ball joint assembly into ball joint bore of control arm. Be sure ball joint assembly is not cocked in the bore of the control arm, this will cause binding of the ball joint assembly, when being pressed into lower control arm.
(2) Position assembly in an arbor press with
Receiving Cup, Special Tool 6758 supporting lower control arm (Fig. 32). Then install Remover/Installer,
Special Tool 6804 on the top of the ball joint assem-
Fig. 32 Installing Ball Joint In Upper ControlArm
CONTROL ARM
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
CAUTION: When installing the ball joint in the upper control arm, do not press the ball joint into the control arm all the way. The lip on the ball joint must not touch the surface of the control arm.
Refer to Step 3 below when installing the ball joint.
(3) Carefully align all pieces. Using the arbor press, press the ball joint into the control arm until a gap of 3mm (1/8 inch) is between lip on ball joint and surface of lower control arm.
(4) Install a NEW ball joint assembly sealing boot on ball joint assembly.
CAUTION: Do not use an arbor press to install the sealing boot on the lower control arm ball joint assembly. Damage to the sealing boot can occur due to excessive pressure applied to sealing boot when being installed.
(5) Position Receiving Cup, Special Tool 6758 over sealing boot so it is aligned properly with bottom edge of sealing boot (Fig. 33). Apply pressure BY
HAND to special tool 6758, until sealing boot is pressed squarely against surface of control arm.
EXHAUST PIPE HANGER MUFFLER
REAR SUSPENSION
CROSSMEMBER
SUSPENSION 2 - 57
Fig. 34 Shock Absorber To Knuckle Attaching
Fig. 33 Ball Joint Seal Boot Installation
REAR SUSPENSION CROSSMEMBER
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(2) Remove both rear wheel and tire assemblies from the vehicle.
(3) Remove the shock absorber clevis bracket to rear knuckle attaching bolt and nut on both sides of the vehicle (Fig. 34).
(4) Remove muffler support bracket from rear frame rail (Fig. 35).
Fig. 35 Muffler Support Bracket
(5) Remove the rear exhaust pipe hanger from the rear suspension crossmember (Fig. 36). Let exhaust system drop down as far as possible.
Fig. 36 Exhaust Pipe Hanger At Rear
SuspensionCrossmember
BOLT SPEED CLIPS
2 - 58 SUSPENSION
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(6) Position a transmission jack and wooden block under the center of the rear suspension crossmember to support and lower crossmember during removal
(Fig. 37).
BOLTS
UPPER CONTROL ARM PIVOT
BAR
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Fig. 37 Lowering And Supporting Rear
SuspensionCrossmember
(7) If vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes, remove routing clips for wheel speed sensor cable from brackets on upper control arm (Fig. 38).
Fig. 39 Suspension Crossmember AttachmentTo
Frame Rails
Fig. 38 Speed Sensor Cable Attachment ToControl
Arm
(8) Remove the nuts and bolts on each side of vehicle attaching the 4 lateral links to the knuckles.
(9) Remove the 4 bolts attaching the rear suspension crossmember to rear frame rails (Fig. 39).
(10) Lower the rear suspension crossmember enough to access the upper control arm pivot bar to crossmember attaching bolts (Fig. 40). Remove the 4 bolts attaching the upper control arms to the suspension crossmember. Remove the control arms from the crossmember.
(11) Lower the rear suspension crossmember, lateral arms and stabilizer bar as far as possible using
Fig. 40 Upper Control Arm Attachment To
Crossmember
the transmission jack. Then with the aid of a helper remove rear suspension crossmember from the vehicle.
(12) Transfer the lateral arms, stabilizer bar mounting brackets and the stabilizer bar and bushings to the replacement crossmember before installing the replacement crossmember in the vehicle.
Tighten the stabilizer bar mounting bracket to rear crossmember mounting bolts to a torque of 27 N·m
(20 ft. lbs.).Tighten the 4 lateral arm to crossmember attaching bolts to a torque of 95 N·m (80 ft. lbs.).
Install the lateral arm to crossmember bolts so head of bolt will be toward the front of the vehicle when the crossmember is installed.
INSTALL
(1) Install the rear suspension crossmember, lateral arms and rear stabilizer bar back into the vehicle as an assembly.
REAR
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(2) With the aid of a helper position rear suspension crossmember back in vehicle and support it using the transmission jack.
(3) Align the upper control arm pivot bars with the mounting holes in the rear suspension crossmember.
Install and tighten the 4 pivot bar to crossmember attaching bolts (Fig. 40) to a torque of 107 N·m (80 ft. lbs.).
(4) Using transmission jack, raise rear suspension crossmember up to the rear frame rails and loosely install the 4 attaching bolts.
(5) Position a drift of the appropriate size into the positioning hole in each side of rear suspension crossmember and locating holes in the frame rail of the body. (Fig. 41). This is required to properly position rear suspension crossmember side-to-side and frontto-rear in the body of the vehicle. Then tighten the 4 crossmember to frame rail attaching bolts to 95 N·m
(70 ft. lbs.). Remove drifts from rear suspension crossmember.
SUSPENSION 2 - 59
(11) Lower vehicle to the ground.
(12) Check and reset if required, rear wheel alignment to meet the preferred specifications.
LATERAL LINKS
The rear suspension lateral links (Fig. 42) are only serviced as complete assemblies. The isolator bushings used in the lateral links are not serviced as separate components.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to straighten or repair a lateral link. Do not apply heat to the lateral link adjusting screws or to the jam nuts, when loosening or adjusting the lateral links.
Fig. 41 Locating Rear Suspension CrossmemberIn
Vehicle
(6) Align lateral links with knuckles and install the lateral arm to knuckle attaching bolts. Tighten the 4 lateral arm to spindle attaching bolts to a torque of 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).
(7) Remove transmission jack supporting rear suspension crossmember.
(8) Install muffler support bracket on rear frame rail (Fig. 35). Install rear exhaust pipe hanger on rear suspension crossmember (Fig. 36).
(9) If vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes, install the wheel speed sensor cable routing clip on upper control arm mounting bracket (Fig. 38). Install and securely tighten attaching bolt.
(10) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 42 Rear Suspension Lateral Links
FORWARD LATERAL LINK
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(2) Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly from the side of the vehicle requiring lateral link removal.
(3) Remove the rear stabilizer bar attaching link from the forward lateral link (Fig. 43).
(4) Remove the nut, bolt and washer (Fig. 43) attaching the forward lateral link to the knuckle.
(5) Remove nut, bolt and washer, attaching the lateral link to the rear suspension crossmember (Fig.
44).
(6) Remove the forward lateral link from the vehicle.
INSTALL
(1) Install the lateral link and the attaching nut and bolt at rear suspension crossmember (Fig. 44).
The forward lateral link is to be installed with the cup in cast portion facing down and toward rear knuckle (Fig. 43).
2 - 60 SUSPENSION
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
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REAR LATERAL LINK
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(2) Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly from the side of the vehicle requiring lateral link removal.
(3) Remove the nut, bolt and washer attaching the lateral link to the knuckle (Fig. 45).
Fig. 43 Stabilizer Bar To Lateral Link Attachment
Fig. 45 Rear Lateral Link Attachment To Knuckle
(4) Remove the bolt (Fig. 46) and nut attaching the lateral link to the rear suspension crossmember.
Fig. 44 Lateral Link Attachment To Rear
SuspensionCrossmember
(2) Install the lateral link and attaching nut and bolt at rear knuckle (Fig. 43).
(3) Torque both lateral link attaching bolts to 95
N·m (70 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the rear stabilizer bar attaching link, isolator bushings and attaching nut on the forward lateral link (Fig. 43). Securely tighten the attaching nut.
(5) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
(6) Lower vehicle to the ground.
(7) Check and reset rear wheel Camber and Toe to specifications if required. Refer to Front And Rear
Toe Setting Procedure in the Wheel Alignment Check
And Adjustment section in this group of the service manual for the required Toe setting procedure.
Fig. 46 Lateral Link Attachment To Rear
SuspensionCrossmember
(5) Remove rear lateral link from vehicle.
INSTALL
(1) Install the lateral link and the attaching nut and bolt at rear suspension crossmember (Fig. 46).
The rear lateral link is to be installed with the
BUSHING LINK WRENCH RETAINER
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued) adjusting screw toward rear knuckle not rear suspension crossmember (Fig. 45).
(2) Install the lateral link and the attaching bolt nut and washer at rear knuckle (Fig. 45).
(3) Torque both lateral link attaching bolts to 95
N·m (70 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
(5) Lower vehicle to the ground.
(6) Check and reset rear wheel Camber and Toe to specifications if required. Refer to Front And Rear
Toe Setting Procedure in the Wheel Alignment Check
And Adjustment section in this group of the service manual for the required Toe setting procedure.
TRAILING LINKS
SUSPENSION 2 - 61
Fig. 48 Trailing Link Hanger Bracket AttachmentTo
Vehicle
When separating the trailing link from the hanger bracket, note the position and orientation on the bushings and retainers to ensure they are re-installed correctly.
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(2) Remove rear wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
(3) At the knuckle, remove the nut, bushing retainer and outer trailing link bushing (Fig. 47) from the trailing link.
(6) Separate the trailing link from the hanger bracket. To separate trailing link from hanger bracket, use a large adjustable wrench on flat of trailing link to turn link while holding nut stationary
(Fig. 49).
Fig. 47 Trailing Link To Knuckle Attachment
(4) Remove the 4 bolts (Fig. 48) attaching the trailing link hanger bracket to the floor pan and frame rail.
(5) Remove the trailing link and mounting bracket as an assembly from the vehicle.
CAUTION: The installation position of the bushings and retainers on the trailing link is important.
Fig. 49 Separating Trailing Link From
HangerBracket
INSTALL
CAUTION: The inner and outer trailing link to hanger bracket bushings and retainers must be installed in their correct position on the trailing link.
Do not reverse the position of the inner and outer trailing link bushing or retainers on the trailing link.
(1) Install the inner bushing retainer, and inner bushing (Fig. 50) on the trailing link. Install the trailing link, retainer and bushing on the hanger
TRAILING LINK
2 - 62 SUSPENSION
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued) bracket (Fig. 50). Then install the outer bushing, outer bushing retainer and nut (Fig. 50) on the trailing link. Tighten the trailing link retaining nut to a torque of 99 N·m (73 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: When installing trailing link bushing retainers, retainers must be installed with cupped side of retainer facing away from bushing and knuckle (Fig. 47).
(4) Install the outer lateral link bushing, outer bushing retainer and retaining nut on trailing link
(Fig. 47). Using a large adjustable wrench on flat of trailing link to keep it from rotating tighten the trailing link retaining nut (Fig. 47) to a torque of 95 N·m
(70 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 50 Trailing Link Bushing Installation
(2) Install knuckle end of trailing link assembly in rear knuckle.
CAUTION: It is important that the following procedure be done when installing the trailing arm hanger bracket to the body of the vehicle. This procedure will ensure that the hanger bracket is installed in the correct position on the vehicle.
(3) Install trailing link hanger bracket on vehicle and loosely install the 4 attaching bolts (Fig. 51).
Then install 2 drift pins of appropriate size in positioning holes on hanger bracket and into locating holes in body (Fig. 51). With hanger bracket correctly positioned on vehicle tighten the 4 hanger bracket mounting bolts.
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
SHOCK ABSORBER
The rear shock is not serviced and must be replaced as an assembly if found to be defective. The shock absorber is available with 2 calibrations, be sure the shock absorber is replaced with an assembly of the same calibration.
The components of the shock absorber assembly listed below are replaceable if found to be defective.
• Coil spring (Coil springs come in a standard and high rate be sure spring is replaced with a spring of the correct rate.)
• Dust shield
• Mount assembly
• Jounce Bumper
• Lower Spring Isolator
• Shaft Nut
DISASSEMBLE
(1) Remove shock absorber assembly requiring service from the vehicle. Refer to Shock Assembly
Removal in Servicing Rear Shock Absorbers, in this section of the service manual.
(2) Position shock absorber assembly in a vise.
Shock absorber is to be clamped only by the clevis bracket on the bottom of the shock absorber (Fig. 52).
Fig. 51 Trailing Link Hanger Bracket Installation
Fig. 52 Shock Absorber Correctly MountedIn Vise
SPRING
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DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
(3) Mark coil spring and strut assembly right or left, according to which side of vehicle strut was removed from, and which strut coil spring was removed from.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE SHOCK ABSORBER
ROD NUT, BEFORE SHOCK ABSORBER COIL
SPRING IS COMPRESSED, REMOVING SPRING
TENSION FROM UPPER CONTROL ARM/SHOCK
ABSORBER MOUNTING BRACKET.
SHOCK ABSORBER WASHER
SUSPENSION 2 - 63
WARNING: WHEN COMPRESSING COIL SPRING
FOR REMOVAL FROM SHOCK ABSORBER ASSEM-
BLY, THE FIRST FULL TOP AND BOTTOM COIL OF
THE SPRING MUST BE CAPTURED BY THE JAWS
OF THE COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR.
(4) Compress shock assembly coil spring, using
Professional Services Equipment Spring Compressor,
GP-2020-C3.5 or an equivalent (Fig. 53).
Fig. 54 Shock Absorber Shaft Nut
Fig. 53 Compressing Shock Absorber Spring
(5) Hold the rod of the shock absorber from rotating using Shock Absorber Socket, Snap-On A136 or an equivalent (Fig. 54). Then remove the shock absorber shaft nut.
(6) Remove the washer from the shock absorber mounting bracket (Fig. 55).
(7) Remove the shock absorber mounting bracket and the isolator bushings (Fig. 56) as an assembly from the rod of the shock absorber.
Fig. 55 Shock Absorber Upper Mount Washer
Fig. 56 Shock Absorber Mount And
IsolatorBushings
2 - 64 SUSPENSION
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
(8) Remove the isolator (Fig. 57) from the coil spring.
SPRING SOR
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Fig. 57 Coil Spring Isolator
(9) Remove the washer from the top of the dust shield and shock absorber rod (Fig. 58).
Fig. 59 Shock Absorber Dust Shield
Fig. 58 Shock Absorber Rod Upper Washer
(10) Remove the dust shield (Fig. 59) from the shock absorber assembly.
(11) Remove the coil spring and the spring compressor as an assembly (Fig. 60) from the shock absorber. Mark left and right springs for instal- lation back on correct side of vehicle.
Fig. 60 Shock Absorber Coil Spring
(12) Remove the jounce bumper and the collar
(Fig. 61) from the rod of the shock absorber assembly.
Fig. 61 Shock Absorber Jounce Bumper AndCollar
SLEEVE REAR MOUNT
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DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
(13) Remove the coil spring isolator (Fig. 62) from the lower spring seat on the shock absorber assembly.
LOWER ISOLATOR BUSHING REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
SUSPENSION 2 - 65
Fig. 62 Coil Spring Isolator
(14) Inspect the shock absorber for any condition of shaft binding over full stroke of the rod.
(15) Inspect all disassembled components for signs of abnormal wear or failure, replacing any components as required. Inspect shock absorber for signs of abnormal oil leakage and for loss of gas charge. To check for loss of gas charge in shock absorber, push the shaft of the shock absorber in and release, the shaft should return to its fully extended position. If shaft does not return to its fully extended position replace shock absorber.
(16) Remove the upper isolator and the sleeve from the shock absorber mount (Fig. 63).
Fig. 63 Shock Absorber Mount Upper Isolator
(17) Remove the lower isolator from the rear shock absorber mount (Fig. 64).
(18) Inspect the rear shock absorber mount upper and lower isolators and the upper spring isolator for the following:
Fig. 64 Shock Absorber Mount Lower Isolator
• Mount for cracks and distortion and locating studs for any sign of damage.
• Severe deterioration of the upper or lower coil spring isolators.
• Deterioration of the shock absorber rod to shock absorber mounting bracket bushings.
•
Inspect dust shield for rips and/or deterioration.
•
Inspect jounce bumper for cracks and signs of deterioration.
ASSEMBLE
CAUTION: Do not clamp shock absorber in a vise by the body of the shock absorber. The shock absorber must only be clamped in the vise using the clevis bracket on bottom of shock absorber
(Fig. 52).
(1) Install the lower isolator in the shock absorber mount. Isolator is to be installed with the cupped side of the isolator toward the shock absorber mount
(Fig. 64).
(2) Install the upper isolator and the sleeve in the shock absorber mount. Isolator and sleeve are to be installed with the tapered side of the isolator facing up (Fig. 63).
(3) Install the coil spring isolator (Fig. 62) on the lower spring seat of the shock absorber assembly.
(4) Install the jounce bumper as shown on the rod of the shock absorber assembly (Fig. 65).
(5) Install the sleeve on the rod of the shock absorber assembly with the undercut side of sleeve facing down (Fig. 66). Push sleeve down until seated on the step of the shock absorber rod (Fig. 66).
WARNING: IF A REPLACEMENT COIL SPRING IS
TO BE INSTALLED ON THE STRUT ASSEMBLY, THE
FIRST FULL TOP AND BOTTOM COIL OF THE
SPRING MUST BE CAPTURED BY THE JAWS OF
THE COIL SPRING COMPRESSOR.
2 - 66 SUSPENSION
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
Fig. 65 Jounce Bumper Installed On ShockRod
JA
(9) Install the isolator on the top of the coil spring.
Isolator must be installed with the two half circle formations in the isolator facing up (Fig. 57).
(10) Install the shock absorber mounting bracket and isolators as an assembly on the rod of the shock absorber assembly (Fig. 56).
(11) Install the top washer (Fig. 55) on rod of shock absorber and position it over shock absorber mount. Washer must be installed with the word
TOP stamped into washer facing up (Fig. 55).
WARNING: THE FOLLOWING 2 STEPS MUST BE
COMPLETELY DONE BEFORE SPRING COMPRES-
SOR IS RELEASED FROM THE COIL SPRING.
(12) Install nut on rod of shock absorber assembly.
Install Shock Absorber Socket, Snap-On A136 or an equivalent on end of shock rod to keep rod from turning (Fig. 54). Then tighten rod nut using a crowfoot
(Fig. 54) to a torque of 55 N·m (40 ft. lbs.).
(13) Position shock absorber upper mount on shock absorber, so studs in upper mount are in line with the bolt hole in the shock absorber clevis bracket
(Fig. 67).
Fig. 66 Installing Sleeve On Shock AbsorberRod
(6) Install the coil spring and spring compressor
(with small diameter coils down) on the shock absorber assembly (Fig. 60). Be sure bottom coil of spring is correctly positioned on the lower spring isolator.
(7) Install dust shield (Fig. 59) on rod of shock absorber assembly.
(8) Install washer on rod of shock absorber assembly and on top of dust shield (Fig. 58).
Fig. 67 Correctly Positioned Shock AbsorberUpper
Mount
(14) Relieve all tension from spring compressor.
After all spring tension has been remove from the spring compressor, remove it from the shock absorber assembly.
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SUSPENSION 2 - 67
SPECIFICATIONS
REAR SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Brakes
Support Plate Mounting Bolts . . 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.)
Brake Hose Mounting Bolt . . . . . 45 N·m (45 ft. lbs.)
Brake Hose Bracket Bolt . . . . . . 23 N·m (17 ft. lbs.)
Shock Absorber
Mounting Bracket To
Body Nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
To Suspension Knuckle
Bolt/Nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.)
Rod To Upper Mount Nut . . . . . . 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Stabilizer Bar
Isolator Bushing Retainer Bolt . . 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.)
To Lateral Link Attaching
Link Nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 N·m (24 ft. lbs.)
Trailing Link
Shaft Nuts (Front And Rear) . . . 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.)
Bracket To Body Mounting
Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.)
Lateral Links
To Knuckle Bolts/Nuts . . . . . . . . 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.)
Jam Nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 N·m (48 ft. lbs.)
To Suspension Crossmember
Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.)
Hub And Bearing Assembly
To Knuckle Retaining Nut . . . 250 N·m (185 ft. lbs.)
Wheel Stud Lug Nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109-150 N·m
(80-110 ft. lbs.)
Ball Joint
To Knuckle Castle Nut . . . . . . . . 67 N·m (50 ft. lbs.)
Control Arm
Pivot Bar To Crossmember . . . . 107 N·m 80 ft. lbs.)
Rear Suspension Crossmember
To Body Attaching Bolts . . . . . . . 95 N·m 70 ft. lbs.)
SPECIAL TOOLS
REAR SUSPENSION
Puller, Pitman Arm CT-1106
Remover, Suspension Arm Bushing AndBall Joint
6804
Installer, Ball Joint 6758
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DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE 3 - 1
DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE
GENERAL INFORMATION
FRONT DRIVESHAFT IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . 1
FRONT DRIVESHAFTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
DRIVESHAFT SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DRIVESHAFT DIAGNOSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
CONTENTS page page
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
INNER TRIPOD JOINT SEAL BOOT . . . . . . . . . 10
SHIELD SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
OUTER C/V JOINT SEALING BOOT SERVICE . 14
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
SPECIAL TOOLS
DRIVESHAFT–SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
GENERAL INFORMATION
FRONT DRIVESHAFTS
Vehicles equipped with either an automatic or manual transmission uses an unequal length driveshaft system.
Vehicles equipped with automatic transaxles use a solid short interconnecting shaft on the left side. The right side of the vehicle uses a longer solid interconnecting shaft.
Driveshafts used on both the right and left sides of the vehicle use a tuned rubber damper weight. The damper weight on the right side is a single clamp style damper. The damper weight on the left side is a double clamp style damper. When replacing a driveshaft, be sure the replacement driveshaft has the same damper weight as the original.
Both driveshaft assemblies use the same type of inner and outer joints. The inner joint of both driveshaft assemblies is a tripod joint, and the outer joint of both driveshaft assemblies is a Rzeppa joint. Both tripod joints and Rzeppa joints are true constant velocity (C/V) joint assemblies. The inner tripod joint allows for the changes in driveshaft length through the jounce and rebound travel of the front suspension.
On vehicles equipped with ABS brakes, the outer
C/V joint is equipped with a tone wheel used to determine vehicle speed for ABS brake operation.
The inner tripod joint of both driveshafts is splined into the transaxle side gears. The inner tripod joints are retained in the side gears of the transaxle using a snap ring located in the stub shaft of the tripod joint. The outer C/V joint has a stub shaft that is splined into the wheel hub and retained by a hub nut using a nut lock and cotter pin, hub nut retention system.
NOTE: This vehicle does not use a rubber lip bearing seal as on past front wheel drive cars, to prevent contamination of the front wheel bearing. On these vehicles, the face of the outer C/V joint has a metal bearing shield which is pressed onto the end of the outer C/V joint housing. This design deters direct water splash on bearing seal while allowing any water that gets in, to run out the bottom of the bearing shield. It is important though to thoroughly clean the outer C/V joint and the wheel bearing area in the steering knuckle before it is assembled after servicing.
FRONT DRIVESHAFT IDENTIFICATION
Driveshafts and driveshaft inner and outer boots can be identified as shown in (Fig. 1). Driveshaft boot location on the driveshaft assemblies, is determined by the number of convolutes used on the driveshaft boot. Refer to (Fig. 1) for the correct location of the sealing boots.
TUNED OUTER C/V (THERMO PLASTIC) OUTER INNER TRIPOD JOINT
3 - 2 DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE
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Fig. 1 Driveshaft Identification
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
DRIVESHAFT SERVICE
CAUTION: The outer C/V joint used on this vehicle uses a new design for retaining the cross to the interconnecting shaft. These driveshafts incorporate a slight twist (helical) in the spline on the interconnecting shaft where the cross is installed. This twist causes a interference fit between the interconnecting shaft and the cross when the outer C/V joint is installed on the interconnecting shaft. This design eliminates the clearance between the cross and the interconnecting shaft resulting in quieter operation of the driveshaft assembly. This design though, eliminated the capability of removing the outer C/V joint from the interconnecting shaft. For this reason the driveshafts will be serviced as a quarter shaft (outer C/V joint/sealing boot, interconnecting shaft and vibration damper) in the event of a outer C/V joint boot failure. The inner joint sealing boot will be serviced, as on past applications, as a separate component of the driveshaft assembly.
CAUTION: Boot sealing is vital to retain special lubricants and to prevent foreign contaminants from entering the C/V joint. Mishandling, such as allowing the assemblies to dangle unsupported, or pulling or pushing the ends, can cut boots or damage C/V joints. During removal and installation procedures, always support both ends of the driveshaft to prevent damage.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DRIVESHAFT DIAGNOSIS
VEHICLE INSPECTION
(1) Check for grease in the vicinity of the inboard tripod joint and outboard C/V joint; this is a sign of inner or outer joint seal boot or seal boot clamp damage.
(2) A light film of grease may appear on the right inner tripod joint seal boot; this is considered normal and should not require replacement of the seal boot.
NOISE AND/OR VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise and/or a vibration in turns could be caused by one of the following conditions:
(1) Damaged outer C/V or inner tripod joint seal boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the loss
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued) and/or contamination of the joint grease, resulting in inadequate lubrication of the joint.
(2) Noise may also be caused by another component of the vehicle coming in contact with the driveshafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a result of one of the following conditions:
(1) A torn seal boot on the inner or outer joint of the driveshaft assembly.
(2) A loose or missing clamp on the inner or outer joint of the driveshaft assembly.
(3) A damaged or worn driveshaft C/V joint.
SHUDDER OR VIBRATION DURING
ACCELERATION
This problem could be a result of:
(1) A worn or damaged driveshaft inner tripod joint.
(2) A sticking tripod joint spider assembly (inner tripod joint only).
(3) Improper wheel alignment. See Wheel Alignment in this group for alignment checking and setting procedures and specifications.
VIBRATION AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS
This problem could be a result of:
(1) Foreign material (mud, etc.) packed on the backside of the wheel(s).
(2) Out of balance front tires or wheels. See Group
22, Wheels And Tires for the required balancing procedure.
(3) Improper tire and/or wheel runout. See Group
22, Wheels And Tires for the required runout checking procedure.
HUB NUT
DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
FRONT DRIVESHAFTS
3 - 3
REMOVAL
CAUTION: The driveshaft, when installed, acts as a bolt and secures the front hub/bearing assembly. If vehicle is to be supported or moved on its wheels with a driveshaft removed, install a PROPER–SIZED
BOLT AND NUT through front hub. Tighten bolt and nut to 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.). This will ensure that the hub bearing cannot loosen.
(1) Remove cotter pin, nut lock, and spring washer from the end of the outer C/V joint stub axle (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2 Cotter Pin, Nut Lock and Spring Washer
(2) Loosen (but do not remove) stub axle to hub/ bearing retaining nut. Loosen hub nut while vehicle is on the floor with the brakes applied (Fig. 3). The front hub and driveshaft are splined together and retained by the hub nut.
Fig. 3 Loosening Front Hub Retaining Nut
STEERING ASSEMBLY
3 - 4 DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE
HEATSHIELD ROD TIE ROD END STEERING
ABS SPEED SEN-
SOR CABLE
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(3) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting, in the Lubrication and Maintenance section, for required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(4) Remove front tire and wheel assembly from the hub.
(5) Remove front disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle guide pin attaching bolts (Fig. 4).
(7) Support brake caliper/adapter assembly using a wire hook (Fig. 6). Do not support assembly by the brake flex hose.
Fig. 4 Caliper Guide Pin Attaching Bolts
(6) Remove disc brake caliper assembly from steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first lifting bottom of caliper away from steering knuckle, and then removing top of caliper out from under steering knuckle (Fig. 5).
Fig. 6 Correctly Supported Brake Caliper
(8) Remove braking disc from front hub.
(9) Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle. Remove nut from tie rod end by holding tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket and loosen and remove nut (Fig. 7).
Fig. 5 Removing Disc Brake Caliper
Fig. 7 Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut
SPEED SPECIAL CABLE ROUTING
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(10) Remove the tie rod end stud from steering knuckle arm, using remover, Special Tool MB-991113
(Fig. 8).
HAMMER ARM KNUCKLE BOSS
BALL JOINT
STUD
DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE 3 - 5
(12) Remove cotter pin and castle nut (Fig. 10) from stud of lower ball joint at the steering knuckle.
Fig. 8 Tie Rod End Removal from SteeringKnuckle
(11) If equipped with antilock brakes, remove the speed sensor cable routing bracket from the steering knuckle (Fig. 9).
Fig. 9 Wheel Speed Sensor Cable RoutingBracket
Fig. 10 Lower Ball Joint to Steering
KnuckleAttachment
CAUTION: No tool is to be inserted between the steering knuckle and the lower ball joint to separate stud of lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
The steering knuckle is to be separated from the stud of the ball joint only using the procedure as described in Step 13.
(13) Turn steering knuckle so the front of the steering knuckle is facing as far outboard in the wheel well as possible. Using a hammer strike steering knuckle boss until steering knuckle separates from stud of lower ball joint (Fig. 11). When strik- ing steering knuckle, care MUST be taken not to hit lower control arm or ball joint grease seal.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint. Driveshaft must be supported.
Fig. 11 Separating Ball Joint Stud from
SteeringKnuckle
HUB/BEARING SNAP RING
3 - 6 DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(14) Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly (Fig.
12).
(16) Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal (Fig. 14).
When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
Fig. 12 Separating Steering Knuckle fromOuter C/V
Joint
CAUTION: When inserting pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case, care must be used to ensure no damage occurs to oil seal in transaxle case.
(15) Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case (Fig. 13). Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
Fig. 14 Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
CAUTION: The driveshaft, when installed, acts as a bolt and secures the front hub/bearing assembly. If vehicle is to be supported or moved on its wheels with a driveshaft removed, install a PROPER–SIZED
BOLT AND NUT through front hub. Tighten bolt and nut to 183 N·m (135 ft. lbs.). This will ensure that the hub bearing cannot loosen.
Fig. 13 Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint
FromTransaxle
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
(2) Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand (Fig. 14).
(3) Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
(4) Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
BEARING SHIELD ALL AREA AND ARM SENSOR CABLE BRACKET
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(5) Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly (Fig. 15).
DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE 3 - 7
(7) Install the steering knuckle to ball joint stud castle nut (Fig. 17). Tighten the castle nut to 95 N·m
(70 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 15 Outer C/V Joint Inspection
(6) Slide driveshaft back into front hub (Fig. 16).
Then install steering knuckle onto the lower control arm ball joint stud.
Fig. 17 Lower Ball Joint to Steering
KnuckleAttachment
(8) If equipped with antilock brakes, install the speed sensor cable on the steering knuckle and securely tighten bolt (Fig. 18).
Fig. 16 Steering Knuckle Installation onOuter C/V
Joint
Fig. 18 Wheel Speed Sensor Cable RoutingBracket
ROD CROWFOOT STEERING
TIE ROD END
FROM DISC BRAKE CALI-
3 - 8 DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(9) Install tie rod end into the steering knuckle.
Start tie rod end to steering knuckle nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary (Fig. 19), tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle nut. Using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket, tighten the nut to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 20).
(11) Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding top of caliper under top abutment on steering knuckle.
Then installing bottom of caliper against bottom abutment of steering knuckle (Fig. 21).
Fig. 19 Installing Tie Rod End Nut
Fig. 21 Disc Brake Caliper Assembly Installation
(12) Install caliper assembly to steering knuckle guide pin bolts (Fig. 22). Tighten caliper assembly bolts to 31 N·m (23 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 20 Torquing Tie Rod End Nut
(10) Install braking disc back on hub and bearing assembly.
Fig. 22 Disc Brake Caliper Bolts
HUB NUT NUT LOCK “PULL” AND
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(13) Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install hub nut onto threads of stub axle and tighten nut. (Fig. 23).
DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE 3 - 9
(15) Install the spring washer, hub nut lock, and new cotter pin on end of stub axle. Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock (Fig. 25).
Fig. 23 Install Washer and Hub Nut
(14) With vehicle brakes applied to keep braking disc from turning, tighten hub nut to 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 24).
Fig. 25 Spring Washer, Nut Lock and CotterPin
Installation
(16) Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install front wheel lug nuts and tighten in the correct sequence (Fig. 26). Tighten lug nuts to 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).
Fig. 24 Torquing Front Hub Nut
Fig. 26 Wheel Lug Torquing Sequence
(17) Lower vehicle.
(18) Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
(19) Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.
3 - 10 DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE
TRIPOD SPIDER BLY
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
DRIVESHAFT RECONDITIONING PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The outer C/V joint used on this vehicle uses a new design for retaining the cross to the interconnecting shaft. These driveshafts incorporate a slight twist (helical) in the spline on the interconnecting shaft where the cross is installed. This twist causes a interference fit between the interconnecting shaft and the cross when the outer C/V joint is installed on the interconnecting shaft. This design eliminates the clearance between the cross and the interconnecting shaft resulting in quieter operation of the driveshaft assembly. This design though eliminated the capability of removing the outer C/V joint from the interconnecting shaft. For this reason the driveshafts will be serviced as a quarter shaft (outer C/V joint/sealing boot, interconnecting shaft and vibration damper) in the event of a outer C/V joint boot failure.
pod joint sealing boot to interconnecting shaft and discard. Remove the sealing boot from the tripod housing and slide it down the interconnecting shaft.
CAUTION: When removing the tripod joint housing from the spider assembly, hold the bearings in place on the spider trunions to prevent the bearings from falling away.
(3) Slide the tripod joint housing off the spider assembly and the interconnecting shaft (Fig. 27).
NOTE: The only service which is to be performed on the driveshaft assemblies is the replacement of the driveshaft seal boots on the inner tripod joints.
If any failure of internal driveshaft components is diagnosed during a vehicle road test or disassembly of the driveshaft, the driveshaft will need to be replaced as an assembly.
CAUTION: Lubricant requirements and quantities are different for inner joints than for outer joints.
Use only the recommended lubricants in the required quantities when servicing driveshaft assemblies.
Fig. 27 Spider Assembly Removal from TripodJoint
Housing
(4) Remove snap ring which retains spider assembly to interconnecting shaft (Fig. 28). Remove the spider assembly from interconnecting shaft. If spider assembly will not come off interconnecting shaft by hand, it can be removed by tapping spider assembly with a brass drift (Fig. 29). Do not hit the outer tripod bearings in an attempt to remove spider assembly from interconnecting shaft.
INNER TRIPOD JOINT SEAL BOOT
REMOVAL
To remove sealing boots from driveshafts, the driveshaft assemblies must be removed from the vehicle. See Servicing Driveshaft for the required driveshaft removal and replacement procedure.
The inner tripod joints use no internal retention in the tripod housing to keep the spider assembly in the housing. Therefore, do not pull on the interconnecting shaft to disengage tripod housing from transmission stub shaft. Removal in this manner will cause damage to the inboard joint sealing boots.
(1) Remove the driveshaft requiring boot replacement from the vehicle. See Servicing Driveshaft for the required driveshaft removal procedure.
(2) Remove large boot clamp which retains inner tripod joint sealing boot to tripod joint housing and discard. Remove small clamp which retains inner tri-
Fig. 28 Spider Assembly Retaining Snap Ring
(5) Slide sealing boot off interconnecting shaft.
INTERCONNECTING SHAFT DO NOT HIT SPIDER
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
SEALING SPIDER ASSEMBLY
DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE 3 - 11
(1) Slide inner tripod joint seal boot retaining clamp, onto interconnecting shaft. Then, slide the replacement inner tripod joint sealing boot onto the interconnecting shaft. Inner tripod joint seal boot
MUST be positioned on interconnecting shaft, so the raised bead on the inside of the seal boot is in groove on interconnecting shaft (Fig. 30).
Fig. 29 Spider Assembly Removal from
InterconnectingShaft
(6) Thoroughly clean and inspect spider assembly, tripod joint housing, and interconnecting shaft for any signs of excessive wear. If any parts show signs of excessive wear, the driveshaft assembly will require replacement. Component parts of these driveshaft assemblies are not serviceable.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The inner tripod joint sealing boots are made from two different types of material. High temperature applications use silicone rubber where as standard temperature applications use hytrel plastic. The silicone sealing boots are soft and pliable. The Hytrel sealing boots are stiff and rigid.
The replacement sealing boot MUST BE the same type of material as the sealing boot which was removed.
Fig. 30 Sealing Boot Installation on
InterconnectingShaft
(2) Install spider assembly onto interconnecting shaft (Fig. 31). Spider assembly must be installed on interconnecting shaft far enough to fully install spider retaining snap ring. If spider assembly will not fully install on interconnecting shaft by hand, it can be installed by tapping the spider body with a brass drift (Fig. 32). Do not hit the outer tripod bear- ings in an attempt to install spider assembly on interconnecting shaft.
Fig. 31 Spider Assembly Installation on
InterconnectingShaft
CLAMP SPECIAL BLY
3 - 12 DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
JA
(5) Align tripod housing with spider assembly and then slide tripod housing over spider assembly and interconnecting shaft (Fig. 34).
Fig. 32 Installing Spider Assembly on
InterconnectingShaft
(3) Install the spider assembly to interconnecting shaft retaining snap ring into groove on end of interconnecting shaft (Fig. 33). Be sure the snap ring is fully seated into groove on interconnecting shaft.
Fig. 34 Installing Tripod Housing on
SpiderAssembly
(6) Install inner tripod joint seal boot to interconnecting shaft clamp evenly on sealing boot.
(7) Clamp sealing boot onto interconnecting shaft using crimper, Special Tool C-4975-A and the following procedure. Place crimping tool C- 4975-A over bridge of clamp (Fig. 35). Tighten nut on crimping tool C- 4975-A until jaws on tool are closed completely together, face to face (Fig. 36).
Fig. 33 Spider Assembly Retaining Snap
RingInstalled
(4) Distribute 1/2 the amount of grease provided in the seal boot service package (DO NOT USE ANY
OTHER TYPE OF GREASE) into tripod housing. Put the remaining amount into the sealing boot.
Fig. 35 Crimping Tool Installed on SealingBoot
Clamp
CLAMP JAWS OF SPECIAL TOOL
SEALING
BOLT
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
TRIM STICK
SEALING
TRIPOD
BOOT
CLAMP
DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE 3 - 13
(9) Insert a trim stick between the tripod joint and the sealing boot to vent inner tripod joint assembly
(Fig. 37). When inserting trim stick between tri- pod housing and sealing boot ensure trim stick is held flat and firmly against the tripod housing. If this is not done damage to the sealing
boot can occur. If inner tripod joint has a Hytrel
(hard plastic) sealing boot, be sure trim stick is inserted between soft rubber insert and tripod housing not the hard plastic sealing boot and soft rubber insert.
Fig. 36 Sealing Boot Retaining Clamp Installed
CAUTION: Seal must not be dimpled, stretched or out of shape in any way. If seal is NOT shaped correctly, equalize pressure in seal and shape it by hand.
(8) Position sealing boot into the tripod housing retaining groove. Install seal boot retaining clamp evenly on sealing boot.
CAUTION: The following positioning procedure determines the correct air pressure inside the inner tripod joint assembly prior to clamping the sealing boot to inner tripod joint housing. If this procedure is not done prior to clamping sealing boot to tripod joint housing sealing boot durability can be adversely affected.
CAUTION: When venting the inner tripod joint assembly, use care so inner tripod sealing boot does not get punctured, or in any other way damaged. If sealing boot is punctured, or damaged in any way while being vented, the sealing boot can not be used.
Fig. 37 Trim Stick Inserted for Venting TripodJoint
(10) With trim stick inserted between sealing boot and tripod joint housing, position the interconnecting shaft so it is at the center of its travel in the tripod joint housing. Remove the trim stick from between the sealing boot and the tripod joint housing. This procedure will equalize the air pressure in the tripod joint, preventing premature sealing boot failure.
(11) Position trilobal boot to interface with the tripod housing. The lobes of the boot must be properly aligned with the recess’s of the tripod housing.
(12) Clamp tripod joint sealing boot to tripod joint, using required procedure for type of boot clamp application.
C-4975A TOOL INNER SPECIAL TOOL
3 - 14 DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
CRIMP TYPE BOOT CLAMP
If seal boot uses crimp type boot clamp:
• Clamp sealing boot onto tripod housing using
Crimper, Special Tool C-4975-A.
• Place crimping tool C- 4975-A over bridge of clamp (Fig. 38).
• Tighten nut on crimping tool C- 4975-A until jaws on tool are closed completely together, face to face (Fig. 39).
• Place prongs of clamp locking tool in the holes of the clamp (Fig. 40).
• Squeeze tool together until top band of clamp is latched behind the two tabs on lower band of clamp
(Fig. 41).
Fig. 38 Crimping Tool Installed on SealingBoot
Clamp
Fig. 40 Clamping Tool Installed on SealingBoot
Clamp
Fig. 39 Sealing Boot Retaining Clamp Installed
LATCHING TYPE BOOT CLAMP
If seal boot uses low profile latching type boot clamp:
• Clamp sealing boot onto tripod housing using clamp locking tool, Snap-On YA3050 or an equivalent.
Fig. 41 Sealing Boot Clamp Correctly Installed
(1) Install the driveshaft back on the vehicle. See
Servicing Driveshaft, for the required driveshaft installation procedure.
OUTER C/V JOINT SEALING BOOT SERVICE
CAUTION: The outer C/V joint used on this vehicle is not a serviceable joint.
SPECIAL TOOL BEARING WITH SPECIAL TOOL C-4698–1
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
CAUTION: The outer C/V joint used on this vehicle uses a new design for retaining the cross to the interconnecting shaft. These driveshafts incorporate a slight twist (helical) in the spline on the interconnecting shaft where the cross is installed. This twist causes a interference fit between the interconnecting shaft and the cross when the outer C/V joint is installed on the interconnecting shaft. This design eliminates the clearance between the cross and the interconnecting shaft resulting in quieter operation of the driveshaft assembly. This design though eliminated the capability of removing the outer C/V joint from the interconnecting shaft. For this reason the driveshafts will be serviced as a quarter shaft (outer C/V joint/sealing boot, interconnecting shaft and vibration damper) in the event of a outer C/V joint boot failure.
DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE 3 - 15
BEARING SHIELD INSTALLATION ON OUTER
C/V JOINT
(1) Install bearing shield by hand on outer C/V
Joint so that it is installed squarely on the C/V joint.
(2) Position installer, Special Tool, C-4698-2 and handle, Special Tool, C-4698-1 on face of bearing shield (Fig. 43).
OUTER C/V JOINT BEARING SHIELD SERVICE
The front hub/bearing shield on the outer C/V joint is a serviceable component of the outer C/V. If it is damaged in use on a vehicle or during servicing of a driveshaft it can be replaced using the following procedure.
To remove the bearing shield from the outer C/V joint, the driveshaft assemblies must be removed from the vehicle. See Servicing Driveshaft, for the required driveshaft removal and replacement procedure.
BEARING SHIELD REMOVAL FROM OUTER
C/V JOINT
(1) Clamp driveshaft in a vise by the interconnecting shaft.
(2) Using a drift (Fig. 42) tap around the entire edge of the bearing shield until it is removed from the outer C/V Joint.
Fig. 43 Special Tools for InstallingBearing Shield
CAUTION: If bearing shield is not installed flush against the face of the outer C/V joint, interference with steering knuckle will occur when driveshaft is installed.
(3) Using a hammer, drive the bearing shield on the outer C/V joint until it is flush against the front of the outer C/V joint (Fig. 44).
Fig. 42 Removing Bearing Shield from OuterC/V
Joint
Fig. 44 Correctly Installed Bearing Shield
3 - 16 DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Caliper To Knuckle Bolts . . . . . . 31 N·m (23 ft. lbs.)
Driveshaft Nut . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.)
Front Wheel Lug Nuts . . . . . . 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
Knuckle To Ball Stud Nut . . . . . 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.)
Tie Rod End To Knuckle . . . . . . . 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.)
SPECIAL TOOLS
DRIVESHAFT–SPECIAL TOOLS
Tie Rod Remover MB-990635
JA
Bearing Shield Installer C-4698
Boot Clamp Installer C-4975A
JA
BRAKES 5 - 1
BRAKES
CONTENTS page
ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM–BENDIX ABX-4 . . 77
BASE BRAKE SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
page
GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
GENERAL INFORMATION
INDEX
page
GENERAL INFORMATION
DESCRIPTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
GENERAL INFORMATION
BASE BRAKE SYSTEM COMPONENT DESCRIPTION
Typical brake equipment consists of:
• Double pin floating caliper disc front brakes.
• Rear automatic adjusting drum brakes.
• Brake Fluid Level Switch.
• Master cylinder.
• Vacuum power booster.
• Double pin floating caliper rear disc brakes are available on some models.
• Hand operated park brake lever.
• Front disc brake pads are semi-metallic.
Vehicles equipped with an Antilock Brake System
(ABS) use a system designated ABX-4 and is supplied by Bendix. This system shares the base brake hardware as vehicles not equipped with ABS. The page
ABS system does however use a different master cylinder and chassis brake tube assembly. Also included in the ABS system is a hydraulic control unit (HCU), four wheel speed sensors, and an electronic controller
(CAB). These components will be described in detail in the Bendix ABX 4 brake section in this group of the service manual.
The hydraulic brake system is diagonally split on both the Non-ABS and ABS braking system. With the left front and right rear brakes on one hydraulic system and the right front and left rear on the other.
The master cylinder used on all vehicle equipped with or without Antilock Brakes is made from a lightweight, anodized, aluminum. On all vehicles the master cylinder has a piston bore diameter of 22.2
mm.
5 - 2 BRAKES
JA
BASE BRAKE SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
FRONT DISC BRAKES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
REAR DRUM BRAKES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
REAR WHEEL HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY . 8
RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
BRAKE FLUID CONTAMINATION . . . . . . . . . . . 19
BRAKE ROTOR THICKNESS AND RUNOUT
. . 14
BRAKE SYSTEM BASIC DIAGNOSIS GUIDE . . . 9
BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHARTS . . . . . . 10
OPERATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
. . . . . . . . 19
STOP LAMP SWITCH TEST PROCEDURE . . . . 19
SERVICE PROCEDURES
BRAKE BLEEDING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
BRAKE DRUM MACHINING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
BRAKE ROTOR MACHINING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
BRAKE TUBE REPAIR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . 49
FRONT BRAKE SHOES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
. . . . . . . . . . . . 25
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
. . . . . . 54
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
FRONT DISC BRAKES
The front disc brakes (Fig. 1) and (Fig. 2) consists of the following components:
•
The driving hub
•
Braking disc (rotor)
•
Caliper assembly - single piston, floating type
• Brake pads and linings
The front disc brakes used on this vehicle are
Allied Signal Inc. double pin floating caliper assemblies.
INDEX
page page
PARK BRAKE LEVER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
REAR BRAKE DRUM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
REAR BRAKE SHOES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
. . . . . . . . . . . 36
REAR BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER . . . . . . . . . . 38
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
STOP LAMP SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
2.4 LTR. ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
VACUUM BOOSTER 2.5 LTR. ENGINE . . . . . . . 45
WHEEL AND TIRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
. . . . . . . . . . . . 62
BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
FRONT AND REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER . . . 62
WHEEL CYLINDER REAR DRUM BRAKE
. . . . 68
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
. . . . . . . . . . . . 70
INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
REAR DRUM BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER
. . . . 70
REAR DRUM BRAKES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
ADJUSTMENTS
PARKING BRAKE ADJUSTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . 71
REAR DRUM BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT . . . 71
STOP LAMP SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
SPECIFICATIONS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
SPECIAL TOOLS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
The front disc brake double pin calipers are mounted directly to the steering knuckles and use no adapter. The caliper is mounted to the steering knuckle using bushings, sleeves and 2 guide pin bolts which thread directly into bosses on the steering knuckle (Fig. 1), (Fig. 2) and (Fig. 3).
Two machined abutments on the steering knuckle position the caliper. The guide pin bolts, sleeves and bushings control the side to side movement of the caliper. The piston seal is designed to pull the piston back into the bore of the caliper when the brake
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued) pedal is released. This maintains the proper brake shoe to rotor clearance (Fig. 4).
All the front brake forces generated during braking of the vehicle are taken up directly by the steering knuckles of the vehicle.
The caliper is a one piece casting with the inboard side containing a single piston cylinder bore.
The front disc brake caliper piston (Fig. 2), is manufactured from a phenolic compound. The outside diameter of the caliper piston is 54 mm.
LOWER ARM AND
BRAKES
Fig. 3 Front Disc Brake Caliper Mounting
5 - 3
Fig. 1 Front Disc Brake Components
Fig. 2 Front Disc Brake Caliper (ExplodedView)
DUST BOOT
5 - 4 BRAKES
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
A square cut rubber piston seal is located in a machined groove in the caliper cylinder bore. This provides a hydraulic seal between the piston and the cylinder wall (Fig. 4).
The original equipment rear drum brake assemblies used on this vehicle are supplied by Varga N.A.
Inc. (Fig. 5).
Fig. 4 Piston Seal Function for
AutomaticAdjustment
A rubber dust boot is installed in the cylinder bore opening and in a groove in the piston (Fig. 4). This prevents contamination in the bore area.
As front disc brake linings wear, master cylinder reservoir brake fluid level will drop. Fluid level should be checked after replacing linings.
Front disc brakes are equipped with an audible wear sensor (Fig. 2) on the outboard brake pad. This sensor emits a sound when the brake lining may need inspection and/or replacement.
REAR DRUM BRAKES
This vehicles rear wheel drum brakes are a two shoe leading/trailing internal expanding type, with an automatic self adjuster mechanism. The automatic self adjuster mechanism used on this vehicle is a new design and functions differently than the screw type adjusters used in the past. This new self adjuster is still actuated each time the vehicles service brakes are applied. This new automatic adjuster mechanism is located directly below the rear wheel cylinder in the area where the screw adjuster was located.
Fig. 5 Varga Rear Wheel Brake Assembly (Left Side
Shown)
PARKING BRAKES
All vehicles are equipped with a center mounted, hand operated park brake lever (Fig. 6). The park brake lever is located in the vehicle, between the driver and passenger seat, and mounted to the console bracket which is welded to the floor pan.
Fig. 6 Park Brake Hand Lever
BENT NAIL PARK BRAKE LEVER OUTPUT PORTIONING VALVE
NON-ABS EQUIPPED PROPOR-
SHAFT
CON-
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
On vehicles equipped with rear drum brakes, the rear wheel service brakes also act as the vehicle’s parking brakes. The rear drum brake shoes, when acting as parking brakes, are mechanically operated using an internal actuating lever and strut which is connected to a flexible steel cable. There is an individual park brake cable for each rear wheel, which are joined using a park cable equalizer before terminating at the floor mounted, hand operated park brake lever.
This vehicle uses a bent nail type park brake cable tension equalizer (Fig. 7). The bent nail tension equalizer is to be used only one time to set the park brake cable tension. If the park brake cables require adjustment during the life of the vehicle, a NEW tension equalizer MUST be installed before doing the park cable adjustment procedure.
BRAKES 5 - 5
are located in the same area of the vehicle as the hydraulic unit on ABS equipped vehicles (Fig. 8).
The ABS master cylinders are a two outlet design with the screw-in proportioning valves attached directly to the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) (Fig. 9).
Vehicles equipped with rear drum brakes use a master cylinder with a 22 mm bore diameter, while vehicles equipped with rear disc brake use a 7/8” bore master cylinder.
Fig. 8 Proportioning Valves For Non ABS Equipped
Vehicles
Fig. 7 Bent Nail Park Brake Cable TensionEqualizer
PROPORTIONING VALVES
This vehicle is available with two different master cylinder assemblies. This vehicle uses screw-in proportioning valves in-line with the rear brake tubes on vehicles not equipped with Antilock Brakes or located at the rear brake outlet ports of the hydraulic control unit on vehicles equipped with Antilock Brakes.
These new in-line proportioning valves used on this vehicle, replace the combination valve used in prior designs. With this new design, the chassis brake tubes connect directly from the master cylinder or
(HCU) to the brake flex hose. Vehicles not equipped with ABS use a master cylinder incorporating the standard type compensating port design. Vehicles which are equipped with ABS, use a master cylinder having a center valve design. In addition, the ABS master cylinder is a 2 outlet port design and the non-
ABS master cylinder is a four outlet design. The non
ABS brake system uses two screw-in proportioning valves attached directly in-line with the rear brake tubes. The non ABS equipped proportioning valves
Fig. 9 Proportioning Valve Location ForAntilock
Brake Equipped Vehicles
Proportioning valves balance front to rear braking by controlling at a given ratio, the increase in rear brake system hydraulic pressure above a preset level
(split point). Under light pedal application, the proportioning valve allows full hydraulic pressure to be applied to the rear brakes.
There are two proportioning valve assemblies used in each vehicle. Due to differences in thread sizes, each proportioning valve has a different part number.
During any service procedures identify valve assem-
MASTER CYLINDER SEC-
MASTER CYLINDER PRI-
MARY PORTS
5 - 6 BRAKES
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued) blies by supplier part number and or the bar code label and stamp identification band (Fig. 10). All vehicle brake systems use a common calibration for the proportioning valve. The split point is 500 psi and the slope is 0.43.
The master cylinder assembly (Fig. 11) consists of the following components. The body of the master cylinder is an anodized aluminum casting. It has a machined bore to accept the master cylinder piston and threaded ports with seats for hydraulic brake line connections. The brake fluid reservoir of the master cylinder assembly is made of a see through polypropelene type plastic.
Fig. 10 Proportioning Valve Identification
CHASSIS TUBES AND HOSES
The purpose of the chassis brake tubes and flex hoses is to transfer the pressurized brake fluid developed by the master cylinder to the wheel brakes of the vehicle. The chassis tubes are steel with a corrosion resistant coating applied to the external surfaces and the flex hoses are made of reinforced rubber. The rubber flex hoses allow for the movement of the vehicles suspension.
MASTER CYLINDER
This vehicle uses 2 differently designed master cylinder assemblies depending on whether the vehicle is or is not equipped with antilock brakes.
Vehicles not equipped with ABS use a standard compensating port master cylinder design, while vehicles equipped with ABS use a center valve design master cylinder.
On vehicles equipped with ABS brakes, the master cylinder is a two outlet design. On vehicles not equipped with ABS brakes, the master cylinder is a 4 outlet design. All vehicles are equipped with a master cylinder having a bore diameter of 22.2 mm.
Fig. 11 Master Cylinder Assembly
On Non-ABS master cylinders, the primary outlet ports (Fig. 12) supply hydraulic pressure to the right front and left rear brakes. The secondary outlet ports
(Fig. 12) supply hydraulic pressure to the left front and right rear brakes.
Fig. 12 Primary And Secondary Ports WithoutABS
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
On ABS master cylinders, the primary outlet port
(Fig. 13) supplies hydraulic pressure to the right front and left rear brakes. The secondary outlet port
(Fig. 13) supplies hydraulic pressure to the left front and right rear brakes.
MASTER CYLINDER PUSH PART BOOSTER
BRAKES 5 - 7
Fig. 13 Primary And SecondaryPorts With ABS
VACUUM BOOSTER
All vehicles use a 205 mm tandem diaphragm power brake vacuum booster. The power brake vacuum booster though, may be unique for the type of brake system the vehicle is equipped with. For this reason, if the power brake vacuum booster requires replacement, be sure it is replaced with the correct part for the type of brake system that the vehicle is equipped with.
The power brake booster can be identified if required, by the tag attached to the body of the booster assembly (Fig. 14). This tag contains the following information: The production part number of the power booster assembly, the date it was built, who manufactured it, and brake sales code.
NOTE: The power brake booster assembly is not a repairable part and must be replaced as a complete unit if it is found to be faulty in any way. The power booster vacuum check valve is not repairable but can be replaced as an assembly.
Fig. 14 Power Brake Booster Identification
The power brake booster reduces amount of force required by the driver to obtain the necessary hydraulic pressure to stop vehicle.
The power brake booster is vacuum operated. The vacuum is supplied from the intake manifold on the engine through the power brake booster check valve
(Fig. 14).
As the brake pedal is depressed, the power boosters input rod moves forward (Fig. 15). This opens and closes valves in the power booster, allowing atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of a diaphragm. Engine vacuum is always present on the other side. This difference in pressure forces the output rod of the power booster (Fig. 15) out against the primary piston of the master cylinder. As the pistons in the master cylinder move forward this creates the hydraulic pressure in the brake system.
Fig. 15 Power Brake Booster Assembly
LEFT
MASTER
SHOCK
LEVEL SENSOR
TOWER
5 - 8 BRAKES
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
Different systems and engine combinations require different vacuum hose routings.
The power brake vacuum booster assembly mounts on the engine side of the dash panel. It is connected to the brake pedal by the input push rod (Fig. 15). A vacuum line connects the power booster to the intake manifold. The master cylinder is bolted to the front of the power brake vacuum booster assembly.
As the fluid drops below the minimum level, the fluid level sensor closes the brake warning light circuit. This will turn on the red brake warning light.
At this time, master cylinder fluid reservoir should be checked and filled to the full mark with DOT 3 brake fluid. If brake fluid level has dropped in master cylinder fluid reservoir, the entire brake hydraulic system should be checked for evidence of a leak.
RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP
The red Brake warning lamp is located in the instrument panel cluster and is used to indicate a low brake fluid condition, the parking brake is applied or that the antilock brake system has a fault but could not turn on the yellow ABS warning lamp.
In addition, the brake warning lamp is turned on as a bulb check by the ignition switch when the ignition switch is placed in the crank position. Problems with this system will generally be of the type where the warning lamp fails to turn on when it should, or remains on when it should not.
The warning lamp bulb is supplied a 12 volt ignition feed anytime the ignition switch is on. The bulb is then illuminated by completing the ground circuit either through the park brake switch, the fluid level sensor in the master cylinder reservoir, the ignition switch in the crank position or the ABS CAB.
The Brake Fluid Level sensor is located in the brake fluid reservoir of the master cylinder assembly
(Fig. 16). The purpose of the sensor is to provide the driver with an early warning that brake fluid level in master cylinder reservoir has dropped to below normal. This may indicate an abnormal loss of brake fluid in the master cylinder fluid reservoir resulting from a leak in the hydraulic system.
STOP LAMP SWITCH
The stop lamp switch controls operation of the vehicles stop lamps. Also, if the vehicle is equipped with speed control, the stop lamp switch will deactivate speed control when the brake pedal is depressed.
The stop lamp switch controls operation of the right and left tail, stop and turn signal lamp and
CHMSL lamp, by supplying battery current to these lamps.
The stop lamp switch controls the lamp operation by opening and closing the electrical circuit to the stop lamps.
REAR WHEEL HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
All vehicles are equipped with permanently lubricated and sealed for life rear wheel bearings. There is no periodic lubrication or maintenance recommended for these units. However, if servicing of a rear wheel bearing is required, refer to procedures in the diagnosis and testing section and the removal and installation section in this group of the service manual for the inspection and replacement of the rear wheel bearing.
Fig. 16 Master Cylinder Fluid Level Sensor
JA
BRAKES 5 - 9
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
BRAKE SYSTEM BASIC DIAGNOSIS GUIDE
SYMPTOM
CHART 1
MISC.
COND.
Brake Warning Light On
Excessive Pedal Travel
Pedal Goes To The Floor
Stop Light On Without Brakes
All Brakes Drag
Rear Brakes Drag
Grabby Brakes
Spongy Brake Pedal
Premature Rear Brake Lockup
Excessive Pedal Effort
Rough Engine Idle
Brake Chatter (Rough)
Surge During Braking
Noise During Braking
Rattle Or Clunking Noise
Pedal Pulsates During Braking
Pull To Right Or Left
No: Not A Possible Cause
3
5
6
6
2
4
1
X
X
X
CHART 2
WARNING
LIGHT
NO
NO
CHART 3
POWER
BRAKES
CHART 4
BRAKE
NOISE
NO
O
CHART 5
WHEEL
BRAKES
NO
X
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO
NO NO
X: Most Likely Cause
NO
O
NO
NO
O
O
NO
X
O
X
X
X
X
X
X
O: Possible Cause
LINING — VACUUM HOSE PISTONS, AND CHECK BRAKES DRAG ALL
5 - 10 BRAKES
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHARTS
MISCELLANEOUS BRAKE SYSTEM CONDITIONS
PEDAL GOES TO
JA
DER RESERVOIR CAP — THAT PARKING REPAIR OR FOR LEAKS
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
TO WARNING APPLY PARKING BRAKE — IGNI-
BRAKES 5 - 11
RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP FUNCTION
5 - 12 BRAKES
NO BASIC TEST LEAK TEST — BRAKES NOT
REMOVE THE VACUUM HOSE OR RUBBER CAP FROM THE SPEED CONTROL OUTLET NIPPLE ON THE
BOOSTER CHECK VALVE.
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
POWER BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSTICS
HIGH PITCH SQUEAK INTERNAL LEAK
LEAK IN BRAKE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM — LOOK FOR WET
OR SCRAPING (METAL TO LINING MATERIAL
HOWL/MOAN
PLATPEDAL PARKING BRAKES
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
BRAKE NOISE
BRAKES 5 - 13
VEHICLE ROAD TEST
5 - 14 BRAKES
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
DRUM BRAKE AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER OPERATION
Place the vehicle on a frame contact hoist with a helper in the driver’s seat to apply the brakes. Raise the vehicle. Remove the adjuster access plug from the rear brake support plate automatic adjuster access hole (Fig. 17). This will allow access to the adjuster quadrant (Fig. 18) on the automatic adjuster mechanism. Then, to eliminate the possibility of maximum adjustment, insert a small screwdriver through the access hole in the support plate (Fig. 17) and back off adjuster quadrant approximately 4 to 5 notches.
Fig. 17 Accessing The Automatic AdjusterQuadrant
JA
Fully apply the brake pedal which will cause the brake shoes to leave the anchor. Upon application of the brake pedal, the adjuster quadrant should move.
Thus, a definite rotation of the adjuster quadrant can be observed if the automatic adjuster is working properly. If one or more adjusters do not function properly, the respective drum must be removed for adjuster mechanism servicing.
BRAKE ROTOR THICKNESS AND RUNOUT
Any servicing of the rotor requires extreme care to maintain the rotor within service tolerances to ensure proper brake action.
Before refinishing or refacing a rotor, the disc should be checked and inspected for the following conditions:
Braking surface scoring, rust, impregnation of lining material and worn ridges.
Excessive lateral runout or wobble.
Thickness variation (Parallelism).
Dishing or distortion (Flatness).
If a vehicle has not been driven for a period of time, the rotor surface will rust in the area not covered by the brake lining and cause noise and chatter when the brakes are applied.
Excessive wear and scoring of the rotor can cause temporary improper lining contact if ridges are not removed before installation of new brake pad assemblies.
Some discoloration or wear of the rotor surface is normal and does not require resurfacing when linings are replaced.
Excessive runout or wobble in a rotor can increase pedal travel due to piston knock back. This will increase guide pin sleeve wear due to tendency of caliper to follow rotor wobble.
Thickness variation in a rotor can also result in pedal pulsation, chatter and surge due to variation in brake output. This can also be caused by excessive runout in rotor or hub.
Dishing or distortion can be caused by extreme heat and abuse of the brakes.
Fig. 18 Automatic Adjuster Quadrant
SPECIAL C-3339 10 DISC SURFACE
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
ROTOR RUNOUT AND THICKNESS VARIATION
On vehicle rotor runout is the combination of the individual runout of the hub face and the runout of the rotor. (The hub and rotor runouts are separable).
To measure runout on the vehicle, remove the wheel and reinstall the lug nuts tightening the rotor to the hub. Mount Dial Indicator, Special Tool C-3339 with
Mounting Adaptor, Special Tool SP- 1910 on steering arm. Dial indicator plunger should contact braking surface of rotor approximately one inch from edge of rotor (Fig. 19). Check lateral runout (both sides of rotor) runout should not exceed 0.13 mm (0.005
inch).
SPECIAL SPECIAL TOOL
BRAKES 5 - 15
Install Dial Indicator, Special Tool C-3339 and
Mounting Adaptor, Special Tool SP-1910 on steering knuckle. Position stem so it contacts hub face near outer diameter. Care must be taken to position stem outside the stud circle but inside the chamfer on the hub rim (Fig. 21). Clean hub surface before checking.
Fig. 19 Checking Rotor For Runout
If runout is in excess of the specification, check the lateral runout of the hub face. Before removing rotor from hub, make a chalk mark across both the rotor and one wheel stud on the high side of runout so you’ll know exactly how the rotor and hub was originally mounted (Fig. 20). Remove rotor from hub.
Fig. 21 Checking Hub for Runout
Runout should not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003 inch). If runout exceeds this specification, hub must be replaced. See Suspension Group 2. If hub runout does not exceed this specification, install rotor on hub with chalk marks two wheel studs apart (Fig. 22).
Tighten nuts in the proper sequence and torque to specifications. Finally, check runout of rotor to see if runout is now within specifications.
Fig. 20 Marking Rotor and Wheel Stud
Fig. 22 Index Rotor And Wheel Stud
CALIPER
5 - 16 BRAKES
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
If runout is not within specifications. Install a new rotor or reface rotor, being careful to remove as little as possible from each side of rotor. Remove equal amounts from each side of rotor. Do not reduce thickness below minimum thickness cast into the un-machined surface of the rotor.
Thickness variation measurements of rotor should be made in conjunction with runout. Measure thickness of rotor at 12 equal points with a micrometer at a radius approximately 25 mm (1 inch) from edge of rotor (Fig. 23). If thickness measurements vary by more than 0.013 mm (0.0005 inch) rotor should be removed and resurfaced, or a new rotor installed. If cracks or burned spots are evident, rotor must be replaced.
PROPORTIONING SPECIAL TOOL 6805
JA taining the required hydraulic pressure to the rear wheel brake which it controls.
If a condition of premature rear wheel skid occurs on a vehicle the proportioning valve should always be tested prior to it being replaced. This is due to the fact that there are conditions other then a faulty proportioning valve which can cause a premature rear wheel skid.
Testing proportioning valve pressures on a vehicle with or without ABS requires using the same special tools.
There are 4 new Pressure Fittings, Special Tool
6805 (Fig. 24) which are to be used for testing the proportioning valves. These same pressure fittings are used if the proportioning valves are either mounted in the HCU, on an antilock equipped vehicle, or in-line on the brake tube on non-antilock equipped vehicles.
Fig. 23 Checking Rotor For Thickness
Light scoring and/or wear is acceptable. If heavy scoring or warping is evident, the rotor must be machined or replaced. See Brake Rotor Machining in the Service Procedures Section in this group of the service manual. Refer to front or rear brake rotor in the Removal And Installation section in this group of the service manual for the required brake rotor replacement procedure.
PROPORTIONING VALVES
PROPORTIONING VALVE TESTING SPECIAL
TOOLS
The new in-line proportioning valves used on this vehicle, require new pressure fittings to test for proper proportioning valve function. The pressure fittings are installed before and after the proportioning valve being test to verify proportioning valve is main-
Fig. 24 Proportioning Valve Pressure TestFittings
The pressure gauges used with the pressure test fittings for testing the in-line proportioning valves on both non-ABS and ABS brakes, is the Pressure
Gauge Set, Special Tool C-4007-A, currently used for testing the combination valve (Fig. 25).
Fig. 25 Proportioning Valve Pressure TestGauge Set
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
PROPORTIONING VALVE TESTING NON-ABS
BRAKES
If premature rear wheel skid occurs on a hard brake application, it could be an indication that a malfunction has occurred with one of the rear brake proportioning valves.
One proportioning valve controls the right rear brake, and the other proportioning valve controls the left rear brake (Fig. 26). Therefore, a road test to determine which rear brake slides first is essential.
Once the wheel which slides first is determined, use the following procedure to diagnose the proportioning valve.
Fig. 26 Non-ABS Brake Proportioning ValveLocation
The test procedure for a premature rear wheel skid is the same for both rear wheel proportioning valves.
The pressure test fittings used for each proportioning valve though are different due to proportioning valve and brake tube nut thread sizes being unique for each rear wheel. After road testing vehicle to determine which wheel skids first, the proper test fittings required will have to be determined. Then follow the procedure below for testing the required proportioning valve.
(1) After road testing vehicle to determine which rear wheel exhibits premature rear wheel skid, refer to (Fig. 26) to determine which proportioning valve needs to be tested.
(2) Remove hydraulic brake line (Fig. 26) from proportioning valve controlling the rear wheel of the vehicle which has premature wheel skid.
(3) Then remove the proportioning valve from the rear brake line.
CAUTION: Be sure the pressure test fitting being installed into proportioing valve, has the correct thread sizes for installation into proportioing valve and installation of rear brake line tube nut.
BRAKES 5 - 17
(4) Install Pressure Test Fitting, Special Tool
6805-1 or 6805-2 on rear brake tube which the proportioning valve was removed from.
(5) Install proportioning valve into pressure test fitting installed on rear brake tube.
CAUTION: Be sure the pressure test fitting being installed into proportioning valve, has the correct thread sizes for installation into the proportioning valve and installation of brake tube fitting.
(6) Install Pressure Test Fitting, Special Tool
6805-3 or 6805-4 into outlet of the proportioning valve.
(7) Connect brake hydraulic line onto pressure test fitting installed in proportioning valve.
(8) Install a Pressure Gauge, Special Tool
C-4007-A into each pressure test fitting. Bleed air out of hose from pressure test fitting to pressure gauge, at pressure gauge to remove all trapped air. hose.
(9) With the aid of a helper, apply pressure to the brake pedal until reading on proportioning valve inlet gauge, is at the pressure shown on the following chart. Then check the pressure reading on the proportioning valve outlet gauge. If proportioning valve outlet pressure does not agree with value shown on the following chart, when inlet pressure shown on chart is obtained, replace the proportioning valve.If
proportioning valve is within pressure specifications do not replace proportioning valve.
(10) Check rear wheel brake shoe linings for contamination or for replacement brake shoes not meeting OEM brake lining material specifications. These conditions can also be a possible cause for a premature rear wheel skid.
(11) Install proportioning valve in rear brake line and hand tighten both tube nuts until they are fully seated in proportioning valve.
(12) Tighten both brake line tube nuts at the proportioing valve to a torque of 17 N·m (145 in-lbs.).
(13) Bleed the affected brake line. See Bleeding
Brake System in the Service Adjustments section of the manual for proper bleeding procedure
PROPORTIONING VALVE TEST WITH ABS
BRAKES
If premature rear wheel skid occurs on hard brake application, it could be an indication that a malfunction has occurred with one of the proportioning valves.
One proportioning valve controls the right rear brake, and the other proportioning valve controls the left rear brake (Fig. 27). Therefore, a road test to determine which rear brake slides first is essential.
PORTIONING VALVE
RIGHT DRIVE
PRO-
SHAFT
5 - 18 BRAKES
CON-
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
Once the wheel which is skidding first is determined, use the following procedure to diagnose the proportioning valve.
Fig. 27 Proportioning Valve Locations OnHCU
The test procedure for a premature rear wheel skid is the same for both rear wheel proportioning valves.
The pressure test fittings used for each proportioning valve though are different due to proportioning valve and brake tube nut thread sizes being unique for each rear wheel. After road testing vehicle to determine which wheel skids first, the proper test fittings required will have to be determined. Then follow the procedure below for testing the required proportioning valve.
(1) After road testing vehicle to determine which rear wheel exhibits premature rear wheel skid, refer to (Fig. 27) to determine which proportioning valve needs to be tested.
(2) Remove hydraulic brake line (Fig. 27) from proportioning valve controlling the rear wheel of the vehicle which has premature wheel skid.
(3) Then remove proportioning valve from that outlet port of the HCU.
CAUTION: Be sure the pressure test fitting being installed into the HCU, has the correct thread sizes for installation into the HCU and installation of the proportioning valve.
JA
(4) Install Pressure Test Fitting, Special Tool
6805-1 or 6805-2 into the outlet port of the HCU.
(5) Install proportioning valve into pressure test fitting installed in the HCU outlet port.
CAUTION: Be sure the pressure test fitting being installed into proportioning valve, has the correct thread sizes for installation into the proportioning valve and installation of brake tube fitting into proportioning valve.
(6) Install Pressure Test Fitting, Special Tool
6805-3 or 6805-4 into the outlet of the proportioning valve.
(7) Connect brake hydraulic line onto pressure test fitting installed in proportioning valve.
(8) Install a Pressure Gauge, Special Tool
C-4007-A into each pressure test fitting. Bleed air out of hose from pressure test fitting to pressure gauge, at pressure gauge to remove all trapped air.
(9) With the aid of a helper, apply pressure to the brake pedal until reading on proportioning valve inlet gauge, is at the pressure shown on the following chart. Then check the pressure reading on the proportioning valve outlet gauge. If proportioning valve outlet pressure does not agree with value shown on the following chart, when inlet pressure shown on chart is obtained, replace the proportioning valve. If proportioning valve is within pressure specifications do not replace proportioning valve.
(10) Check rear wheel brake shoe linings for contamination or for replacement brake shoes not meeting OEM brake lining material specifications. These conditions can also be a possible cause for a premature rear wheel skid.
(11) Install proportioning valve in HCU and hand tighten until proportioning is fully installed and
O-ring seal is seated into HCU. Then torque proportioning valve to 40 N·m (30 ft. lbs.).
(12) Install brake tube on proportioning valve.
Torque tube nut to 17 N·m (145 in-lbs.) torque.
CAP
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
BRAKES 5 - 19
(13) Bleed the affected brake line. See Bleeding
Brake System in the Service Adjustments section of the manual for proper bleeding procedure.
Master cylinder reservoirs are marked with the words FULL AND MIN indicating proper range of the master cylinder fluid level (Fig. 28).
PROPORTIONING VALVE APPLICATIONS AND PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS
BRA
BRB
BRJ
BRK
SALES CODE
BRAKE FLUID CONTAMINATION
BRAKE
SYSTEM
TYPE
14”
Disc/Drum
15”
Disc/Drum
14”
Disc/Drum
W/ABS
15”
Disc/Drum
W/ABS
SPLIT
POINT
500 psi
500 psi
500 psi
500 psi
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or deteriorated rubber parts.
Swollen rubber parts indicate the presence of petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If fluid separates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thoroughly flush system. Replace master cylinder, proportioning valve, caliper seals, wheel cylinder seals,
Antilock Brakes hydraulic unit and all hydraulic fluid hoses.
SLOPE
0.43
0.43
0.43
0.43
IDENTI-
FICATION
INLET
PRESSURE
OUTLET
PRESSURE
Bar Code
Label
Bar Code
Label
Bar Code
Label
Bar Code
Label
1000 psi
1000 psi
1000 psi
1000 psi
600-700 psi
600-700 psi
600-700 psi
600-700 psi
CAUTION: Use only Mopar
T brake fluid or an equivalent from a tightly sealed container. Brake fluid must conform to DOT 3 specifications. Do not use petroleum-based fluid because seal damage in the brake system will result.
If necessary, add specified brake fluid bringing level to the FULL mark on the side of the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir (Fig. 28).
RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP TEST
For diagnosis of specific problems with the red brake warning lamp system, refer to Brake System
Diagnostics Chart 2, located in the Diagnosis And
Testing section in this group of the service manual.
STOP LAMP SWITCH TEST PROCEDURE
The required procedure for testing the stop lamp switch is covered in Group 8H, Vehicle Speed Control
System in this service manual. The electrical circuit tests for stop lamps is covered in Group 8W Rear
Lighting in this service manual.
Fig. 28 Master Cylinder Fluid Level
BRAKE BLEEDING
SERVICE PROCEDURES
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL CHECK
Check master cylinder reservoir brake fluid level a minimum of twice a year.
NOTE: For bleeding the ABS hydraulic system, see
Bleeding ABX-4 Brake System in the Service Procedures Section of the ABS Brake Section in this group of the service manual.
TRAPPED AIR
5 - 20 BRAKES
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder cover, wipe it clean to prevent dirt and other foreign matter from dropping into the master cylinder.
BRAKE CALIPER BRAKE SCREW
CALIPER GUIDE PIN
BOLTS (2)
JA
PRESSURE BLEEDING
CAUTION: Use bleeder tank Special Tool C-3496-B with required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding.
NOTE: Follow pressure bleeder manufacturer’s instructions for use of pressure bleeding equipment.
When bleeding the brake system, some air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as ten feet from the bleeder screw (Fig. 29).
Therefore, it is essential to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes to ensure all the air gets out.
Fig. 30 Proper Method for Purging Air FromBrake
System (Typical)
(2) Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to obtain an steady stream of brake fluid
(Fig. 31).
Fig. 29 Trapped Air in Brake Line
The following wheel sequence for bleeding the brake hydraulic system should be used to ensure adequate removal of all trapped air from the hydraulic system.
•
Left rear wheel
•
Right front wheel
•
Right rear wheel
•
Left front wheel
(1) Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw starting at the right rear wheel and feed the hose into a clear jar containing enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose (Fig. 30).
Fig. 31 Open Bleeder Screw at Least One FullTurn
(3) After 4 to 8 ounces of fluid has been bled through the brake and an air-free flow is maintained in the clear plastic hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
(4) Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then check the pedal for travel.
If pedal travel is excessive or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to reenter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
SPECIAL
JA
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
BLEEDING WITHOUT A PRESSURE BLEEDER
NOTE: Correct bleeding of the brakes hydraulic system without the use of pressure bleeding equipment will require the aid of a helper.
The following wheel sequence for bleeding the brake hydraulic system should be used to ensure adequate removal of all trapped air from the hydraulic system.
• Left rear wheel
• Right front wheel
• Right rear wheel
• Left front wheel
(1) Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw starting at the right rear wheel and feed the hose into a clear jar containing enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose (Fig. 30).
(2) Pump the brake pedal three or four times and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
(3) Open the bleeder screw at least 1 full turn.
When the bleeder screw opens the brake pedal will drop.
(4) Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only after the bleeder screw is closed.
(5) Repeat steps 1 through 3, four or five times at each bleeder screw. Then check the pedal for travel.
If pedal travel is excessive or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system.
(6) Test drive vehicle to be sure brakes are operating correctly and that pedal is solid.
BRAKES 5 - 21
MASTER CYLINDER BLEEDING PROCEDURE
(1) Clamp the master cylinder in a vise. Attach
Bleeding Tubes, Special Tool 6802 to the master cylinder outlet ports (Fig. 32) or (Fig. 33). Position bleeding tubes so the outlets of the bleeding tubes will be below the surface of the brake fluid when reservoir is filled to proper level.
Fig. 32 Bleeding Tubes Attached To MasterCylinder
With ABS
Fig. 33 Bleeding Tubes Attached to MasterCylinder
With Out ABS
5 - 22 BRAKES
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
(2) Fill brake fluid reservoir with brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications such as Mopar or an
Equivalent.
(3) Using a wooden dowel per (Fig. 34). Depress push rod slowly, and then allow pistons to return to the released position. Continue to repeat this step several times after no more air bubbles are expelled from bleed tubes to ensure all air is bled from the master cylinder.
DAMPER
JA
BRAKE ROTOR REFINISHING INFORMATION
If the rotor surface is deeply scored or warped, or there is a complaint of brake roughness or pulsation, the rotor should be resurfaced or refaced (Fig. 35) or
(Fig. 36).
Fig. 34 Bleeding Master Cylinder
(4) Remove bleeding tubes from master cylinder outlet ports, plug outlet ports and install fill cap on reservoir.
(5) Remove master cylinder from vise.
NOTE: Note: It is not necessary to bleed the brakes entire hydraulic system after replacing the master cylinder. However, the master cylinder must have been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation on the power brake vacuum booster.
BRAKE ROTOR MACHINING
DISC BRAKE ROTOR TURNING PROCEDURES
Any servicing of the rotor requires extreme care to maintain the rotor to within service tolerances to ensure proper brake action.
Fig. 35 Refacing Brake Rotor
Fig. 36 Resurfacing Brake Rotor (Final Finish)
MINIMUM
JA
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
The following chart shows the location of measurements and specifications when servicing the rotor.
NOTE: All rotors have markings for minimum allowable thickness cast on an un-machined surface of the rotor (Fig. 37).
Fig. 37 Minimum Brake Rotor ThicknessMarkings
(Example)
This marking includes 0.76 mm (0.030 inch) allowable rotor wear beyond the recommended 0.76 mm
(0.030 inch) of rotor refacing.
BRAKES 5 - 23
The collets, shafts and adapters used on the brake lathe and the bearing cups in the rotor MUST be clean and free from any chips or contamination.
When mounting the rotor on the brake lathe, strict attention to the brake lathe manufacturer’s operating instructions is required.
If the rotor is not mounted properly, the lateral runout will be worse after refacing or resurfacing than before.
REFACING BRAKE ROTOR
Refacing of the rotor is not required each time the brake pads are replaced.
When refacing a rotor the required 0.10 mm (0.004
inch) TIR (Total Indicator Reading) and 0.013 mm
(0.0005 inch) thickness variation limits MUST BE
MAINTAINED. Extreme care in the operation of rotor turning equipment is required.
The use of a double straddle cutter (Fig. 35) that machines both sides of the rotor at the same time is highly recommended.
RESURFACNG BRAKE ROTOR
This operation can be used when rotor surface is rusty, has lining deposits or excessive lateral runout or thickness variation is evident.
A sanding rotor attachment will remove surface contamination without removing much rotor material.
It will generally follow variations in thickness that are in the rotor.
BRAKE ROTOR REFINISHING LIMITS
BRAKING ROTOR
ROTOR
THICKNESS
All Front Disc Brakes 23.13-22.87
mm
.911 -.900 in.
*
TIR Total Indicator Reading (Measured On Vehicle)
MINIMUM
ROTOR
THICKNESS
21.4 mm
.843 in
ROTOR
THICNESS
VARIATION
0.013 mm
0.0005 in.
ROTOR
RUN OUT *
0.13 mm
0.005 in.
ROTOR
MICRO
FINISH
15-80 RMS
BE SURE ALL BURRS BRAKE TUBING
5 - 24 BRAKES
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
BRAKE DRUM MACHINING
Measure drum runout and diameter. If not to specification, reface drum. (Runout should not exceed
0.1524 mm or 0.006 inch). The diameter variation
(oval shape) of the drum braking surface must not exceed either 0.0635 mm (0.0025 inch) in 30° or
0.0889 mm (0.0035 inch) in 360°.
All brake drums are marked with the maximum allowable brake drum diameter (Fig. 38).
JA
Using Tubing Cutter, Special Tool C-3478-A or equivalent, cut off damaged seat or tubing (Fig. 39).
Ream out any burrs or rough edges showing on inside of tubing (Fig. 40). This will make the ends of tubing square (Fig. 40) and ensure better seating of flared end tubing. PLACE TUBE NUT ON TUB-
ING BEFORE FLARING THE TUBING.
Fig. 38 Maximum Brake Drum Diameter
Identification
BRAKE TUBE REPAIR
Only double wall 4.75mm (3/16 in.) steel tubing with Al-rich/ZN-AL alloy coating and the correct tube nuts are to be used for replacement of a hydraulic brake tube.
Care should be taken when repairing brake tubing, to be sure the proper bending and flaring tools and procedures are used, to avoid kinking. Do not route the tubes against sharp edges, moving components or into hot areas. All tubes should be properly attached with recommended retaining clips.
Fig. 39 Cutting And Flaring Of Brake FluidTubing
Fig. 40 Brake Fluid Tube Preparation ForFlaring
TUBE INVERTED DOUBLE FLARE SEAT
JA
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
DOUBLE INVERTED TUBING FLARES
To make a double inverted tubing flare (Fig. 41) and (Fig. 42). Open handles of Flaring Tool, Special
Tool C-4047 or equivalent. Then rotate jaws of tool until the mating jaws of tubing size are centered between vertical posts on tool. Slowly close handles with tubing inserted in jaws but do not apply heavy pressure to handle as this will lock tubing in place.
Place gauge (Form A) on edge over end of brake tubing. Push tubing through jaws until end of tubing contacts the recessed notch in gauge matching the tubing size. Squeeze handles of flaring tool and lock tubing in place. Place 3/16 inch plug of gauge (A) down in end of tubing. Swing compression disc over gauge and center tapered flaring screw in recess of disc. Screw in until plug gauge has seated on jaws of flaring tool. This action has started to invert the extended end of the tubing. Remove gauge and continue to screw down until tool is firmly seated in tubing. Remove tubing from flaring tool and inspect seat. Refer to tube routing diagrams for proper brake tube routing and clip locations. Replace any damaged tube routing clips.
BRAKES 5 - 25
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
WHEEL AND TIRE
To install the wheel and tire assembly, first position it properly on the mounting surface using the hub pilot as a guide. Then progressively tighten the lug nuts in the proper sequence to half of the required torque. Finally tighten the lug nuts in the proper sequence to 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 43).
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.
Fig. 41 Double Inverted Brake Line TubingFlare
Fig. 43 Five Lug Wheel Nut Tightening Sequence
FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER
During service procedures, grease or any other foreign material must be kept off caliper assembly, surfaces of braking rotor and external surfaces of hub.
Handling of the braking rotor and caliper should be done in such a way as to avoid deformation of the rotor and scratching or nicking of the brake linings.
NOTE: Before vehicle is moved after any brake service work, pump the brake pedal several times to insure the vehicle has a firm brake pedal.
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual.
(2) Remove front wheel and tire assemblies from vehicle.
Fig. 42 Double Wall Inverted Flare Connection
STEERING ASSEMBLY
5 - 26 BRAKES
UPPER CONTROL ARM KNUCKLE
ABS SPEED SEN-
SOR CABLE
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(3) Remove the 2 caliper to steering knuckle guide pin bolts (Fig. 44).
(5) Support caliper from upper control arm to prevent weight of caliper from being supported by brake flex hose. Supporting disc brake caliper from flex hose can damage the hose (Fig. 46).
Fig. 44 Removing Caliper Guide Pin Bolts
(4) Remove brake caliper from steering knuckle, by first rotating bottom end of caliper away from steering knuckle. Then slide top of caliper down from the machined abutment on steering knuckle (Fig. 45).
Fig. 45 Removing / Installing Brake Caliper
Fig. 46 Storing Caliper
INSTALL
(1) Lubricate both steering knuckle abutments with a liberal amount of Mopar t Multipurpose Lubricant, or equivalent.
(2) If removed, install the front rotor on the hub, making sure it is squarely seated on face of hub.
CAUTION: Use care when installing the caliper assembly onto the steering knuckle so the seals on the caliper guide pin bushings do not get damaged by the steering knuckle bosses.
(3) Carefully position caliper and brake shoe assemblies over brake rotor by first hooking top of brake shoes on the machined abutment on upper steering knuckle (Fig. 45). Then rotate the bottom of the brake caliper into position on the steering knuckle. Make sure that caliper guide pin bolts, bushings and sleeves are clear of the steering knuckle bosses.
NOTE: When being installed, extreme caution must be taken not to cross thread the caliper guide pin bolts.
(4) Install the brake caliper guide pin bolts (Fig.
44). Then tighten the guide pin bolts to a torque of
22 N·m (16 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the wheel and tire assembly.
(6) Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(7) Remove jackstands or lower hoist. Before moving vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to insure the vehicle has a firm brake
pedal. .
(8) Road test the vehicle and make several stops to wear off any foreign material on the brakes and to seat the brake pads.
FRONT BRAKE SHOES
BRAKES 5 - 27
CAUTION: When prying the piston back into the bore of the caliper do not use a hard pry bar. The use of a hard pry bar will damage the braking surface of the rotor.
(3) Slightly pry the piston back into the bore of the disc brake caliper. The piston is to be pryed back by inserting a soft tool (such as a trim stick) between the inboard brake shoe and the rotor and prying against the inboard brake shoe. This will force the piston back into the caliper.
(4) Remove the 2 brake caliper to steering knuckle guide pin bolts (Fig. 47).
WARNING: ALTHOUGH FACTORY INSTALLED
BRAKELININGS ARE MADE FROM ASBESTOS
FREE MATERIALS, SOME AFTER MARKET BRAKE-
LINING MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS. THIS SHOULD
BE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT WHEN SERVICING A
VEHICLE’S BRAKE SYSTEM, WHEN AFTER MAR-
KET BRAKELININGS MAY HAVE BEEN INSTALLED
ON THE VEHICLE. ALWAYS WEAR A RESPIRATOR
WHEN CLEANING BRAKE COMPONENTS AS
ASBESTOS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY HARM
SUCH AS ASBESTOSIS AND OR CANCER. NEVER
CLEAN BRAKE COMPONENTS BY USING COM-
PRESSED AIR, USE ONLY A VACUUM CLEANER
SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR THE REMOVAL OF
BRAKE DUST. IF A VACUUM CLEANER IS NOT
AVAILABLE, CLEAN BRAKE PARTS USING ONLY
WATER DAMPENED SHOP TOWELS. DO NOT CRE-
ATE BRAKELINING DUST BY SANDING BRAKE LIN-
INGS WHEN SERVICING A VEHICLE. DISPOSE OF
ALL DUST AND DIRT SUSPECTED OF CONTAINING
ASBESTOS FIBERS USING ONLY SEALED AIR-
TIGHT BAGS OR CONTAINERS. FOLLOW ALL REC-
OMMENDED SAFETY PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY
THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMIN-
ISTRATION (OSHA) AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL
PROTECTION AGENCY (EPA), FOR HANDLING AND
DISPOSAL OF PRODUCTS CONTAINING ASBES-
TOS.
Fig. 47 Removing Caliper Guide Pin Bolts
(5) Remove brake caliper from steering knuckle, by first rotating bottom of brake caliper away from the steering knuckle. Then slide top of brake shoes down and out from the top machined abutment on steering knuckle (Fig. 48).
If inspection reveals that the square sectioned caliper piston seal is worn or damaged, it should be replaced immediately.
During removal and installation of a wheel and tire assembly, use care not to strike the caliper.
NOTE: Before vehicle is moved after any brake service work, pump the brake pedal several times to insure the vehicle has a firm brake pedal.
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual.
(2) Remove front wheel and tire assemblies from vehicle.
Fig. 48 Removing Brake Caliper
(6) Support brake caliper from upper control arm to prevent weight of caliper from being supported by brake flex hose. Supporting disc
UPPER CONTROL ARM STEERING
ABS SPEED SEN-
SOR CABLE
PISTON WIRE CLIP
5 - 28 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued) brake caliper from flex hose can damage the hose (Fig. 49).
(8) Remove outboard brake shoe by pushing the brake shoe inward until retaining pins on brake shoe can be removed from holes in caliper (Fig. 51). Then slide the brake shoe off the caliper.
Fig. 49 Storing Caliper
(7) Remove the brake rotor from the front hub
(Fig. 50).
Fig. 51 Removing / Installing Outboard BrakeShoe
(9) Pull inboard brake shoe away from piston until retaining clip is free from cavity in piston (Fig. 52).
Fig. 50 Removing / Installing Brake Rotor
Fig. 52 Removing Inboard Brake Shoe
CALIPER INSPECTION
Check caliper for piston seal leaks (brake fluid in and around boot area and inboard lining) and for any ruptures of the piston dust boot. If boot is damaged, or fluid leak is visible, disassemble caliper and install a new seal and boot, (and piston if scored).
Refer to Caliper Disassembly And Re-Assembly Procedures in Disc Brake Caliper Service in this section of the service manual.
Check the caliper dust boot and caliper pin bushings to determine if they are in good condition.
Replace if they are damaged, dry, or found to be brittle. Refer to Guide Pin Bushing Service in Disc
Brake Caliper Service in this section of the service manual.
RIGHT OUTBOARD SHOE BRAKE SHOE PISTON
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
INSTALL
(1) Completely retract caliper piston back into piston bore of caliper assembly. This is required for caliper installation with new brake shoe assemblies.
(2) Lubricate both steering knuckle abutments with a liberal amount of Mopar t Multipurpose Lubricant, or equivalent.
(3) Install the front rotor on the hub, making sure it is squarely seated on face of hub (Fig. 50).
(4) Remove the protective paper from the noise suppression gasket on both the inner and outer brake shoe assemblies (if equipped).
NOTE: Note: The inboard and outboard brake shoes are not common (Fig. 53). Be sure the correct outer brake shoe is installed in the correct caliper. The left and right outer brake shoes are different and must be installed correctly. The wear sensor (Fig. 53) and the hold down clip must be on the upper end of the caliper when the caliper and brake shoes are installed on the steering knuckle.
BRAKES 5 - 29
(5) Install the new inboard brake shoe assembly into the caliper piston by firmly pressing into piston bore (Fig. 54). Be sure inboard brake shoe assembly is positioned squarely against face of caliper piston.
Fig. 54 Installing Inboard Brake Shoe Assembly
(6) Slide the new outboard brake shoe assembly onto the caliper assembly (Fig. 51).
CAUTION: Use care when installing the caliper assembly onto the steering knuckle so the seals on the caliper guide pin bushings do not get damaged by the steering knuckle bosses. Also, make sure that caliper guide pin bushings and sleeves are clear of the steering knuckle bosses
Fig. 53 Front Brake Shoe Assembly Identification
5 - 30 BRAKES
REAR SUSPENSION LATBRAKE SUPPORT
AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER ACCESS
HOLE PLUG
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(7) Carefully position brake caliper and brake shoes over brake rotor by first hooking top of brake shoes onto upper abutment on steering knuckle (Fig.
55). Then rotate caliper into position at bottom of steering knuckle.
(1) Remove the rubber plug (Fig. 56) from the brake support plate.
Fig. 55 Installing Brake Caliper
NOTE: When installing guide pin bolts, extreme caution should be taken not to cross thread the caliper guide pin bolts.
(8) Install the caliper guide pin bolts (Fig. 47) and tighten to a torque of 22 N·m (16 ft. lbs.).
(9) Install the wheel and tire assembly.
(10) Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).
(11) Remove jackstands or lower hoist. Before moving vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to insure the vehicle has a firm brake
pedal. .
(12) Road test the vehicle and make several stops to wear off any foreign material on the brakes and to seat the brake shoes.
REAR BRAKE DRUM
REMOVE
If the vehicle has high mileage, the brake drums may have a ridge worn in them by the brake shoes.
This ridge causes the brake drum to interfere with the brake shoes thus, not allowing the brake drum to be removed. Further clearance can be obtained by backing off the brakes automatic self adjuster mechanism, using the following procedure.
Fig. 56 Automatic Adjuster Access Hole Plug
(2) Insert a screwdriver, through the automatic adjuster access hole, in the rear brake support plate
(Fig. 57). Engage screwdriver with the teeth on the adjuster mechanism quadrant. Then rotate quadrant so that the teeth on the quadrant are moved toward the front of the vehicle (Fig. 57). This will back off the adjustment of the rear brake shoes.
Fig. 57 Backing Off Rear Brake Shoe Adjustment
BRAKEDRUM
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(3) Remove rear brake drum from the rear hub and bearing assembly (Fig. 58).
BRAKES 5 - 31
THE OCCUPATIONAL SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMIN-
ISTRATION (OSHA) AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL
PROTECTION AGENCY (EPA), FOR HANDLING AND
DISPOSAL OF PRODUCTS CONTAINING ASBES-
TOS.
During service procedures, grease or any other foreign material must be kept off brake shoe assemblies, and braking surfaces of brake drum and external surfaces of hub/bearing assembly.
The original equipment rear drum brake assemblies used on this vehicle are supplied by Varga N.A.
Inc. (Fig. 59).
Fig. 58 Brake Drum And Hub And Bearing Assembly
INSTALL
(1) Install rear brake drum on rear hub and bearing assembly.
(2) Install the wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
(4) Adjust rear brakes. The rear brakes on this vehicle are adjusted by depressing the brake pedal as far as possible 2 or 3 times.
REAR BRAKE SHOES
WARNING: ALTHOUGH FACTORY INSTALLED
BRAKELININGS ARE MADE FROM ASBESTOS
FREE MATERIALS, SOME AFTER MARKET BRAKE-
LINING MAY CONTAIN ASBESTOS. THIS SHOULD
BE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT WHEN SERVICING A
VEHICLE’S BRAKE SYSTEM, WHEN AFTER MAR-
KET BRAKELININGS MAY HAVE BEEN INSTALLED
ON THE VEHICLE. ALWAYS WEAR A RESPIRATOR
WHEN CLEANING BRAKE COMPONENTS AS
ASBESTOS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS BODILY HARM
SUCH AS ASBESTOSIS AND OR CANCER. NEVER
CLEAN BRAKE COMPONENTS BY USING COM-
PRESSED AIR, USE ONLY A VACUUM CLEANER
SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR THE REMOVAL OF
BRAKE DUST. IF A VACUUM CLEANER IS NOT
AVAILABLE, CLEAN BRAKE PARTS USING ONLY
WATER DAMPENED SHOP TOWELS. DO NOT CRE-
ATE BRAKELINING DUST BY SANDING BRAKE LIN-
INGS WHEN SERVICING A VEHICLE. DISPOSE OF
ALL DUST AND DIRT SUSPECTED OF CONTAINING
ASBESTOS FIBERS USING ONLY SEALED AIR-
TIGHT BAGS OR CONTAINERS. FOLLOW ALL REC-
OMMENDED SAFETY PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY
Fig. 59 Rear Wheel Brake Assembly (LeftSide
Shown)
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual.
(2) Remove the rear wheel and tire assemblies from the vehicle.
NOTE: If the vehicle has high mileage, the brake drums may have a ridge worn in them by the brake shoes. This ridge causes the brake drum to interfere with the brake shoes, not allowing the brake drum to be removed. Further clearance can be obtained by fully backing off the brakes automatic self adjuster mechanism, using the following procedure.
REAR SUSPENSION LATSUPPORT
AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER ACCESS
HOLE PLUG
5 - 32 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(3) Remove the rubber plug (Fig. 60) from the top of brake support plate.
(5) Remove rear brake drum to hub/bearing retaining nuts (if equipped). Then remove rear brake drum from hub and bearing assembly (Fig. 62).
Fig. 60 Adjuster Access Hole Plug
(4) Insert a screwdriver, through the automatic adjuster access hole, in the rear brake support plate
(Fig. 61). Engage screwdriver with the teeth on the adjuster mechanism quadrant. Then rotate quadrant so that teeth on quadrant, are moved toward the front of the vehicle. Continue moving quadrant toward front of vehicle until it stops moving. This will fully back off the adjustment of the rear brake shoes allowing brake drum to be removed.
Fig. 62 Rear Brake Drum Assembly
(6) Remove the actuating spring (Fig. 63) from the automatic adjuster mechanism and the trailing brake shoe.
Fig. 61 Backing Off Rear Brake Shoe Adjustment
Fig. 63 Adjuster Mechanism Actuating Spring
LOWER BRAKE SHOE
UPPER RETURN
SPRING
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(7) Remove the upper return spring from the leading and trailing brake shoe assembly (Fig. 64).
PIN RETAINER
BRAKES 5 - 33
(9) Remove the brake shoe retainer and pin (Fig.
66) from the leading brake shoe assembly.
Fig. 64 Upper Brake Shoe Return Spring
(8) Remove the lower return spring from the leading and trailing brake shoe assembly (Fig. 65).
Fig. 66 Leading Brake Shoe Retainer
(10) Remove the leading brake shoe and the adjuster mechanism as an assembly, (Fig. 67) from the rear brake support plate. The adjuster mecha- nism can not be separated from the leading brake shoe until the brake shoe and adjuster mechanism is removed from the support plate.
Fig. 65 Lower Brake Shoe Return Spring
Fig. 67 Leading Brake Shoe And Adjuster
Mechanism
BRAKE PARK BRAKE CABLE PARK BRAKE ACTUAT-
RETAINER
5 - 34 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(11) Remove the brake shoe retainer and pin, (Fig.
68) from the trailing brake shoe.
(14) Remove the automatic adjuster mechanism from the original leading brake shoe assembly for installation on the replacement brake shoe, using the following procedure. Fully extend the adjuster mechanism in the direction shown in (Fig. 70). Then, with adjuster mechanism fully extended, rotate the adjuster mechanism in the direction shown in (Fig.
70) to separate adjuster mechanism from leading brake shoe.
Fig. 68 Trailing Brake Shoe To Support Plate
Retainer
(12) Remove the trailing brake shoe assembly from the brake support plate.
CAUTION: On this vehicle, the park brake actuating lever is permanently attached to the trailing brake shoe assembly. Do not attempt to remove it from the original brake shoe assembly or reuse the original actuating lever on a replacement brake shoe assembly. All replacement brake shoe assemblies for this vehicle must have the actuating lever as part of the trailing brake shoe assembly.
(13) Remove the park brake cable from the park brake actuating lever, (Fig. 69) attached to the trailing brake shoe assembly. Do not attempt to remove actuating lever from brake shoe assembly.
Fig. 70 Removing Adjuster Mechanism FromLeading
Brake Shoe
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean metal portion of brake shoes. Check to see if shoes are bent.
Lining should show contact across entire width and from heel to toe, otherwise replace.
Shoes with lack of contact at toe or heel may be improperly ground.
Clean and inspect the brake support plate and the automatic self adjusting mechanism.
Visually examine the adjuster assembly to ensure it is functioning correctly by checking for the following operation.
•
Be sure the quadrant (Fig. 71) is free to rotate throughout its entire tooth contact range.
•
Ensure that the quadrant is free to slide the full length of its mounting slot in the adjuster mechanism.
• Inspect the quadrant spring (Fig. 71) for any signs of excessive wear or damage.
• Ensure that the knurled pin (Fig. 71) is securely attached to the adjuster mechanism and that its teeth are not damaged.
• Overall, examine the adjuster mechanism for excessive wear or damage and replace if necessary.
Fig. 69 Park Brake Cable To Actuator
LeverAttachment
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
If the adjuster mechanism is re-useable, apply a light coat of Mopar Multi-Purpose Lubricant or equivalent, between the quadrant and the strut of the adjuster mechanism (Fig. 71).
BRAKES 5 - 35
(1) Lubricate the eight brake shoe contact areas
(indicated by arrows) on the support plate and anchor using Mopar Multi-Purpose Lubricant or equivalent (Fig. 73).
Fig. 71 Automatic Self Adjuster Mechanism
If old springs have overheated or are damaged, replace. Overheating indications are paint discoloration or distorted end coils.
INSTALL
NOTE: The leading rear brake shoes on this vehicle are designated for which side of the vehicle they are to be installed on. When correctly installed, the web reinforcement plate on the brake shoes (Fig.
72) will be facing toward the brake support plate
(Fig. 67).
Fig. 73 Shoe Contact Areas on Support Plate
(2) Install the park brake cable on the park brake actuating lever of the trailing brake shoe (Fig. 69).
CAUTION: The leading and trailing brake shoes used on the rear brakes of this vehicle are unique
(handed) for the left and right side of the vehicle.
Care must be taken to ensure the brake shoes are properly installed on the vehicle. When the trailing brake shoes are properly installed on the correct side of the vehicle, the park brake actuating lever will be positioned behind the brake shoe web (Fig.
68).
(3) Install the correctly handed trailing brake shoe on the support plate so it is squarely seated on the shoe contact areas. Then install the brake retainer on the retainer pin (Fig. 68).
Fig. 72 Leading Brake Shoes
DUST CAP
5 - 36 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(4) Install the automatic self adjuster mechanism on the correct leading brake shoe assembly using the reverse procedure as indicated in step Step 14 of the brake shoe removal procedure. Refer to (Fig. 74) for the correct installation of the adjuster mechanism on the leading brake shoe.
(9) Install the automatic adjuster actuation spring first on the trailing brake shoe and then hook it onto the adjuster mechanism (Fig.
(10) Install the rear brake drums on the hubs.
63).
(11) Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
(12) Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
(13) Lower vehicle
(14) Adjust rear brake shoes. Brake shoes will adjust by fully depressing the brake pedal 2 to
3 times. Brake shoes should now be correctly adjusted and will not require any type of manual adjustment.
(15) Road test vehicle.
REAR BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual.
(2) Remove rear tire and wheel assembly from vehicle.
(3) Remove the dust cap from the rear hub and bearing assembly (Fig. 75).
Fig. 74 Adjuster Mechanism Correctly InstalledOn
Correct Leading Brake Shoe
NOTE: When installing the leading brake shoe, the web support plate (Fig. 67) must be facing the brake support plate.
(5) Install the leading brake shoe and the adjuster mechanism as an assembly (Fig. 67) on the brake support plate.
(6) Be sure leading brake shoe assembly is squarely seated on the brake support plate shoe contact areas. Then install the brake retainer on the retainer pin (Fig. 66).
(7) Install the lower return spring onto the leading and trailing brake shoe assembly (Fig. 65).
CAUTION: The upper brake shoe return spring and adjuster mechanism actuating spring are unique for the side of the vehicle they are used on. The springs are colored for identification of which side of the vehicle they are to be used on. The left side springs are colored green and the right side springs are blue.
(8) Install the upper return spring (blue right side, green left side) on the leading brake shoe first, then on the trailing brake shoe (Fig. 64).
Fig. 75 Hub And Bearing Dust Cap
BRAKE HOSE BRAKE
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(4) Remove the rear hub and bearing assembly retaining nut (Fig. 76). Then remove the hub and bearing assembly from the rear spindle.
BRAKES 5 - 37
(7) Position a 1/2 wrench over the retainer fingers on the end of the parking brake cable (Fig. 78). Compress cable housing retaining fingers and start cable housing out of support plate (Fig. 78). Remove wrench when retainer is free from the park brake cable mounting hole in the rear brake support plate.
Alternate method is to use a aircraft type hose clamp over cable housing end fitting compressing the three fingers.
Fig. 76 Hub And Bearing Retaining Nut
(5) Remove rear brake shoe assemblies from the brake support plate. Refer to Rear Brake Shoes in the Removal And Installation Section in this group of the service manual for the proper brake shoe assembly removal procedure.
(6) Disconnect rear brake flex hose tube from wheel cylinder and remove the brake flex hose bracket from the brake support plate (Fig. 77).
Fig. 77 Brake Flex Hose Tube At Wheel Cylinder
Fig. 78 Removing Park Brake Cable From
SupportPlate
(8) Remove the 4 brake support plate to knuckle attaching bolts and washer assemblies. Separate brake support plate from rear suspension knuckle.
INSTALL
(1) Install gasket and brake support plate on rear spindle. Tighten the support plate-to-spindle attaching bolts to a torque of 63 N·m (46 ft. lbs).
(2) Insert parking brake cable end fitting into brake support plate.
(3) Hand start hydraulic brake hose tube fitting to wheel cylinder. Tighten tube nut to a torque of 17
N·m (145 in. lbs.).
(4) Install rear brake shoe assemblies on the brake support plate. Refer to Rear Brake Shoes in the
Removal And Installation Section in this group of the service manual for the proper brake shoe assembly installation procedure.
(5) Install the rear hub and bearing on the rear spindle. Install a NEW hub and bearing assembly retaining nut (Fig. 76).
(6) Tighten the hub and bearing assembly retaining nut to a torque of 250 N·m (185 ft. lbs.). Install dust cap.
(7) Adjust brake shoes assemblies so as not to interfere with brake drum installation.
(8) Install brake drum on rear hub/bearing assembly.
BRAKE FLEX WHEEL
5 - 38 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(9) Bleed the vehicle’s base brakes hydraulic system.
(10) After brake drums are installed, pump brake pedal several times to do final adjustment of the brake shoe assemblies.
(11) Install the wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
(3) Remove rear wheel cylinder attaching bolts
(Fig. 80). Then pull wheel cylinder assembly off brake support plate.
REAR BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER
REMOVE
With brake drums removed, inspect the wheel cylinder boots for evidence of a brake fluid leak. Visually check the boots for cuts, tears, or heat cracks. If any of these conditions exist, the wheel cylinders should be completely cleaned, inspected and new parts installed.
(1) In case of a leak, remove brake shoes (replace if soaked with grease or brake fluid.)
(2) Disconnect rear brake flex hose tube from wheel cylinder and remove the flex hose routing bracket from the brake support plate (Fig. 79).
Fig. 79 Brake Flex Hose At Wheel Cylinder
Fig. 80 Wheel Cylinder Attaching Bolts
INSTALL
(1) Apply a small bead of silicone sealer around the mating surface of the wheel cylinder to brake support plate.
(2) Install wheel cylinder onto brake support plate.
Tighten the attaching bolts (Fig. 80) to a torque of 11
N·m (97 in. lbs.).
(3) Hand start hydraulic brake hose tube fitting to wheel cylinder (Fig. 79). Tighten the tube nut to a torque of 17 N·m (145 in. lbs.).
(4) Install brake shoes on support plate. Follow procedure for Installing Brake Shoe Assemblies in this section of the service manual.
(5) Install rear brake drum onto rear hub.
(6) Install the wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
(7) Bleed the entire brake system. See Bleeding
Brake System in Service Adjustments section in this group of the service manual.
(8) Adjust the rear brakes. See Adjusting Service
Brakes in Service Adjustments section in this group of the service manual.
REAR DUST CAP
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
REAR HUB AND BEARING
BRAKES 5 - 39
(5) Remove hub/bearing assembly to rear spindle retaining nut (Fig. 83).
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(2) Remove rear wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove brake drum (Fig. 81) from rear hub/ bearing assembly.
Fig. 81 Rear Brake Drum Removal
(4) Remove dust cap (Fig. 82) from rear hub/bearing assembly.
Fig. 83 Hub/Bearing Assembly Retaining Nut
(6) Remove rear hub/bearing assembly from spindle. Hub/bearing is removed by pulling it straight off the spindle by hand.
INSTALL
(1) Install the hub/bearing assembly on the knuckle. Then install a NEW rear hub/bearing assembly retaining nut (Fig. 83). Tighten the hub/ bearing assembly retaining nut to a torque of 250
N·m (185 ft. lbs.).
(2) Install hub/bearing assembly dust cap, (Fig. 82) using a soft faced hammer.
(3) Install brake drum on rear hub/bearing assembly.
(4) Install rear wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten all wheel stud nuts in criss cross pattern to one-half the specified torque. Then repeat pattern, fully tightening the stud nuts to a torque of 129 N·m
(95 ft. lbs.).
(5) Lower vehicle.
Fig. 82 Rear Hub/Bearing Dust Cap
SENTOR
5 - 40 BRAKES
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
MASTER CYLINDER
REMOVE
(1) Remove vehicle wiring harness connector from brake fluid level sensor, in master cylinder brake fluid reservoir (Fig. 84).
ONDARY PORTS
MASTER CYLINDER PRI-
MARY PORTS
JA
Fig. 84 Master Cylinder Fluid Level Sensor
(2) Disconnect the primary and secondary brake tubes from master cylinder outlet ports (Fig. 85) and
(Fig. 86). Install plugs at all open brake tube outlets on master cylinder assembly.
Fig. 86 Master Cylinder Primary And
SecondaryPorts With Out ABS
(3) Using Mopar, Brake Parts Cleaner or an equivalent, clean area where master cylinder attaches to booster.
(4) Remove the 2 nuts (Fig. 87) attaching master cylinder assembly to power brake vacuum booster.
Fig. 85 Master Cylinder Primary And
SecondaryPorts With ABS
Fig. 87 Master Cylinder Mounting To
VacuumBooster
(5) Slide master cylinder assembly straight off its mounting studs on power brake vacuum booster.
SPECIAL
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
BLEEDING MASTER CYLINDER
(1) Clamp the master cylinder in a vise. Attach
Bleeding Tubes, Special Tool 6802 to the master cylinder outlet ports (Fig. 88) or (Fig. 89). Position tubes so outlets of Bleeding Tubes will be below surface of brake fluid when reservoir is filled to proper level.
BRAKES 5 - 41
(3) Using a wooden dowel per (Fig. 90), depress push rod slowly, and then allow pistons to return to released position. Continue to repeat this step several times after no more air bubbles are expelled from bleed tubes to ensure all air is bled from master cylinder.
Fig. 88 Bleeding Tubes Attached to MasterCylinder
With ABS
Fig. 90 Bleeding Master Cylinder
(4) Remove bleeding tubes from master cylinder outlet ports, plug outlet ports and install fill cap on reservoir.
(5) Remove master cylinder from vise.
NOTE: Note: It is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system after replacing the master cylinder. However, the master cylinder must have been bled and filled upon installation.
Fig. 89 Bleeding Tubes Attached to MasterCylinder
With Out ABS
(2) Fill brake fluid reservoir with brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications such as Mopar or an
Equivalent.
INSTALL
(1) Position master cylinder assembly on studs of power brake unit, aligning push rod on power brake vacuum booster with piston of master cylinder.
(2) Install the 2 master cylinder to power brake vacuum booster mounting nuts (Fig. 87). Tighten both nuts to a torque of 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect brake tubes to master cylinder primary and secondary ports (Fig. 88) or (Fig. 89). Then tighten the tube nuts to a torque of 17 N·m (145 in.
lbs.).
SPEED TOWER
5 - 42 BRAKES
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
VACUUM BOOSTER 2.0 AND 2.4 LTR. ENGINE
REMOVE
(1) Remove the remote ground cable from the ground stud located on the left strut tower (Fig. 91).
JA
(3) If equipped, remove the vehicle’s wiring harness connector from the speed control servo. Remove the 2 speed control servo mounting bracket to strut tower attaching nuts (Fig. 93). Without removing speed control cable from servo, move speed control servo out of the way.
Fig. 91 Ground Cable Attachment At StrutTower
(2) Correctly isolate remote ground cable when servicing vehicle by installing the ground cable insulator on the strut tower ground stud as shown (Fig. 92).
This will prevent accidental grounding of the remote ground cable.
Fig. 93 Speed Control Servo Attachment
(4) Remove the vacuum harness connector and electrical connector from the purge solenoid (Fig. 94).
Remove purge solenoid from vehicle.
Fig. 92 Correctly Isolated Remote GroundCable
Fig. 94 Purge Control Solenoid
INTAKE MANIFOLD
HEATER
HOSES
JA
EGR
VALVE
RESERVOIR HOSE
VACUUM HOSE TO EGR
VALVE
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(5) Remove the vacuum hoses (Fig. 95) from the check valve located on the power brake vacuum booster.
BRAKE
LEFT
MASTER CYLINDER FLUID
SHOCK
TOWER
BRAKES 5 - 43
(7) Remove the vehicle’s wiring harness connector from the master cylinder brake fluid level sensor
(Fig. 97).
Fig. 95 Vacuum Hose Attachment To Check Valve
(6) Remove EGR valve transducer assembly and vacuum hoses (Fig. 96) from the EGR valve. Valve removal is necessary for required clearance to remove power brake vacuum booster from vehicle and not damage transducer during removal.
Fig. 97 Master Cylinder Brake Fluid LevelSensor
(8) Remove the 2 nuts (Fig. 98) attaching the master cylinder assembly to the power brake vacuum booster.
Fig. 96 EGR Valve Transducer Assembly
Fig. 98 Master Cylinder Mounting
POWER BRAKE VACTRANSAXLE LEFT TOWER AIR CLEANER AIR CLEANER HOSE BOOSTER ASSEMBLY
5 - 44 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(9) Without removing the brake tubes from master cylinder, remove it from the power brake vacuum booster. Then carefully lower master cylinder and brake tubes as an assembly until it is positioned on top of the transaxle (Fig. 99).
(11) Remove the 4 nuts attaching power brake vacuum booster to dash panel. Nuts are accessible from under dash panel in area of the steering column and pedal bracket assembly (Fig. 101).
Fig. 99 Master Cylinder Assembly PositionedFor
Booster Removal
(10) Locate the power brake vacuum booster input rod to brake pedal attachment under instrument panel. Position a small screwdriver between the center tang on the power brake booster input rod to brake pedal pin retaining clip (Fig. 100). Rotate screwdriver enough to allow retaining clip center tang to pass over end of brake pedal pin. Then pull retaining clip off brake pedal pin. Discard retain- ing clip. Replace only with a new retaining clip when assembled.
Fig. 101 Power Brake Vacuum Booster Mounting
(12) Slide power brake vacuum booster forward until mounting studs clear dash panel and then tilt up and rotate toward center of vehicle to remove
(Fig. 102).
Fig. 102 Power Brake Vacuum Booster
CAUTION: Do not attempt to disassemble the power brake vacuum booster it is to be serviced
ONLY as a complete assembly.
Fig. 100 Input Rod Retaining Pin
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
INSTALL
(1) Position power brake booster onto dash panel.
(2) Install and torque the 4 power brake vacuum booster mounting nuts (Fig. 101) to 29 N·m (250 in.
lbs.) torque.
(3) Using lubriplate, or an equivalent, coat the surfaces of the brake pedal pin that contact the power brake vacuum booster input rod.
(4) Connect power brake vacuum booster input rod to brake pedal pin and install a NEW retaining clip.
Use only a new retainer clip DO NOT USE the old clip.
(5) Position master cylinder on studs of power brake unit, aligning push rod on power brake vacuum booster with master cylinder push rod.
(6) Install the 2 master cylinder to power brake unit mounting nuts (Fig. 98). Tighten the 2 mounting nuts to a torque of 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.).
(7) Install the vehicle’s wiring harness connector on the master cylinder brake fluid level sensor (Fig.
97).
(8) Install the purge control solenoid (Fig. 94) on the left front frame rail. Tighten the purge control solenoid mounting bolt.
(9) Install the EGR transducer assembly on the
EGR valve (Fig. 96). Install the vehicle wiring harness connector (Fig. 96) on the EGR transducer, ensuring the retaining clip is fully engaged with transducer.
(10) Connect all previously removed vacuum hoses onto the power brake vacuum booster check valve
(Fig. 95).
(11) If equipped, install speed control servo on the mounting studs in the left strut tower (Fig. 93).
Install the 2 speed control servo bracket mounting nuts (Fig. 93). Tighten the 2 mounting nuts to a torque of 6 N·m (55 in. lbs.).
(12) Check brake light switch for correct adjustment. If required, adjust stop lamp switch as necessary.
See required procedure in the Service
Adjustments Section in this group of the service manual.
(13) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of the vehicles brake system.
BRAKES
VACUUM BOOSTER 2.5 LTR. ENGINE
5 - 45
REMOVE
(1) Remove the remote ground cable from the ground stud located on the left shock tower (Fig.
103).
Fig. 103 Ground Cable Attachment To StrutTower
(2) Correctly isolate remote ground cable when servicing vehicle by installing the ground cable insulator on the strut tower ground stud as shown (Fig. 104).
This will prevent accidental grounding of the remote ground cable.
Fig. 104 Correctly Isolated Remote GroundCable
AIR CHAMING BOLTS SPEED HOSE AND
AIR CLEANER LID
5 - 46 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(3) Remove the PCV hose (Fig. 105) from the air chamber located on the front of the intake manifold.
Remove bolt (Fig. 105) attaching the air chamber to the intake manifold. Then unlatch lid of air cleaner from air cleaner housing and loosen clamp attaching air inlet hose to throttle body (Fig. 105). Remove the air cleaner lid, air inlet hose and air chamber (Fig.
105) as an assembly from the engine.
(5) Without removing cables from bracket, remove the throttle and speed control cable mounting bracket (Fig. 106) from the intake manifold.
(6) Remove the EGR tube (Fig. 107) from the intake manifold and EGR valve.
Fig. 105 Engine Air Intake System Components
(4) Remove the throttle cable and if equipped the speed control cable from the throttle body (Fig. 106).
Remove the vacuum hose (Fig. 106) from the throttle body. Remove the wiring harness connectors from
AIS motor and the Throttle Position Sensor (Fig.
106) on the throttle body. Then, remove the 4 bolts
(Fig. 106) attaching the throttle body to the intake manifold and remove it from intake manifold.
Fig. 107 EGR Tube Attachment To Intake
ManifoldAnd EGR Valve
(7) If equipped, remove the vehicle’s wiring harness connector from the speed control servo. Remove the 2 speed control servo mounting bracket to strut tower attaching nuts (Fig. 108). Without removing speed control cable from servo, move speed control servo out of the way.
Fig. 106 Throttle Body Attachment To
IntakeManifold
Fig. 108 Speed Control Servo Attachment ToStrut
Tower
MASTER CYLINDER
MASTER CYLINDER PRI-
MARY PORTS
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(8) Remove the primary and secondary brake tubes (Fig. 109) and (Fig. 110) from the master cylinder assembly.
BRAKE
LEFT
MASTER CYLINDER FLUID
SHOCK
TOWER
BRAKES 5 - 47
(9) Remove the vehicle’s wiring harness connector from the master cylinder brake fluid level sensor
(Fig. 111).
Fig. 109 Primary And Secondary Brake TubesWith
Antilock Brakes
Fig. 111 Master Cylinder Brake Fluid LevelSensor
(10) Remove the 2 nuts (Fig. 112) attaching the master cylinder assembly to the power brake vacuum booster. Then remove the master cylinder assembly from the power brake vacuum booster.
Fig. 110 Primary And Secondary Brake
TubesWithout Antilock Brakes
Fig. 112 Master Cylinder Mounting To
VacuumBooster
POWER BRAKE ELECTRICAL
5 - 48 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(11) Remove the vacuum harness connector and electrical connector from the purge solenoid (Fig.
113). Remove bracket and purge solenoid as an assembly from the vehicle.
(14) Locate the power brake vacuum booster input rod to brake pedal attachment under instrument panel. Position a small screwdriver between the center tang on the power brake booster input rod to brake pedal pin retaining clip (Fig. 115). Rotate screwdriver enough to allow retaining clip center tang to pass over end of brake pedal pin. Then pull retaining clip off brake pedal pin. Discard retain- ing clip. Replace only with a new retaining clip when assembled.
Fig. 113 Purge Control Solenoid
(12) Remove dipstick tube attaching bolt (Fig.
114). Then remove the dipstick tube and dipstick
(Fig. 114) as an assembly from the transaxle.
Fig. 115 Input Rod Retaining Pin
(15) Remove the 4 nuts attaching power brake vacuum booster to dash panel. Nuts are accessible from under dash panel in area of the steering column and pedal bracket assembly (Fig. 116).
Fig. 114 Transaxle Dipstick Tube
(13) Remove the vacuum hoses from the check valve located on the power brake vacuum booster.
Fig. 116 Power Brake Vacuum Booster Mounting
POWER BRAKE VACUUM
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(16) Slide power brake vacuum booster straight forward until mounting studs clear dash panel. Then lift power brake vacuum booster strait up to remove it from the vehicle (Fig. 117).
Fig. 117 Power Brake Vacuum Booster Removal
CAUTION: Do not attempt to disassemble the power brake vacuum booster it is to be serviced
ONLY as a complete assembly.
INSTALL
(1) Position power brake booster onto dash panel.
(2) Install and torque the 4 power brake vacuum booster mounting nuts (Fig. 116) to 29 N·m (250 in.
lbs.) torque.
(3) Using lubriplate, or an equivalent, coat the surfaces of the brake pedal pin that contact the power brake vacuum booster input rod.
(4) Connect power brake vacuum booster input rod to brake pedal pin and install a NEW retaining clip.
Use only a new retainer clip DO NOT USE the old clip.
(5) Install the dipstick tube in transaxle (Fig. 114).
Install dipstick tube attaching bolt and securely tighten (Fig. 114).
(6) Install the vacuum hoses on the check valve in the power brake vacuum booster.
(7) Position purge control solenoid (Fig. 113) on left front strut tower and install and securely tighten attaching bolt. Then correctly route and install the vacuum harness connector and electrical connector
(Fig. 113) on the purge control solenoid.
(8) Position master cylinder on studs of power brake unit, aligning push rod on power brake vacuum booster with master cylinder push rod.
(9) Install the 2 master cylinder to power brake unit mounting nuts (Fig. 112). Tighten the 2 mounting nuts to a torque of 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.).
(10) Install the primary and secondary brake tubes
(Fig. 109) and (Fig. 110) in the master cylinder assembly outlet ports. Tighten all tube nuts to a torque of 17 N·m (145 in. lbs.).
(11) Install the vehicle’s wiring harness connector on the master cylinder brake fluid level sensor (Fig.
111).
(12) If equipped, install speed control servo on the mounting studs in the left strut tower (Fig. 108).
Install the 2 speed control servo bracket mounting nuts (Fig. 108). Tighten the 2 mounting nuts to a torque of 6 N·m (55 in. lbs.). Install electrical connector on speed control servo.
(13) Install the EGR tube with NEW gaskets on the intake manifold and EGR valve (Fig. 107). Install the 4 mounting bolts and tighten to a torque of 11
N·m (95 in. lbs.).
(14) Install the throttle body and a NEW gasket on the intake manifold. Install the 4 throttle body attaching bolts (Fig. 106) and tighten to a torque of
22 N·m (200 in. lbs.).
(15) Install the vacuum hose (Fig. 106) on the throttle body. Install the wiring harness connectors on the AIS motor and the Throttle Position Sensor
(Fig. 106) located on the throttle body.
(16) Install the mounting bracket for the throttle cable and speed control cable onto the intake manifold and securely tighten the mounting bolts.
(17) Install the throttle cable, and if equipped, the speed control cable on the cam of the throttle body assembly.
(18) Install the air cleaner lid, air inlet hose and air chamber (Fig. 105) as an assembly on the engine.
Latch lid of air cleaner to air cleaner housing.
Securely tighten the clamp attaching the air inlet hose to the throttle body (Fig. 105). Install and securely tighten the bolt attaching the air chamber to the intake manifold (Fig. 105).
(19) Install the remote ground cable (Fig. 103) on the ground stud located on the left strut tower (Fig.
103). Install and securely tighten the ground cable attaching nut.
(20) Check brake light switch for correct adjustment. If required, adjust stop lamp switch as necessary.
See required procedure in the Service
Adjustments Section in this group of the service manual.
(21) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of the vehicles brake system.
CHASSIS TUBES AND HOSES
BRAKES 5 - 49
Always use Mopar replacement brake hose assemblies to ensure quality, correct length and superior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure that the tube and hose mating surfaces are clean and free from nicks and burrs. Hose assemblies for each brake are unique and not interchangeable.
5 - 50 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
Use new copper seal washers on all connections using Banjo Bolts and tighten all fittings to their specified torques.
The flexible front hydraulic brake hose should always be installed on the vehicle by first attaching the Banjo connector to the caliper assembly. Then bolt the intermediate hose bracket to the strut assembly allowing the bracket to position the hose to prevent twisting. Attach the hose to brake tubing, before attaching to front frame rail. Then tighten all brake line fittings to specified torque.
On vehicles equipped with rear drum brakes, install rear brake hoses first to wheel cylinders and rear struts and then attach hose bracket to body. On vehicles equipped with rear disc brakes, attach brake hoses to calipers and struts first and then attach brake hose bracket to body. Following this procedure will reduce potential for twisting brake during installation procedure.
Only double wall 4.75mm (3/16 in.) steel brake line tubing, with Al- Rich/ZN-AL alloy coating should be used for replacement. Care must be taken when replacing brake tubing, to be sure the proper bending and flaring tools and procedures are used to avoid kinking. Do not route the tubes against sharp edges, moving components or into hot areas. All tubes should be properly attached with recommended retaining clips.
INSTALL
(1) Install proportioning valve in rear brake line and hand tighten both tube nuts until they are fully seated in proportioning valve (Fig. 118).
(2) Tighten both brake line tube nuts at the proportioning valve to a torque of 17 N·m (145 in-lbs.).
(3) Bleed the affected brake line. See Bleeding
Brake System in the Service Adjustments section of the manual for proper bleeding procedure
PARK BRAKE LEVER
REMOVE
(1) Remove the 2 screws (Fig. 119) attaching rear of center console assembly to console bracket.
PROPORTIONING VALVE
REMOVE
(1) Remove hydraulic brake line (Fig. 118) from proportioning valve controlling the rear wheel of the vehicle which has premature wheel skid.
(2) Then remove the proportioning valve from the rear brake line.
Fig. 119 Center Console Rear Attaching Screws
(2) If vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission remove the shift knob from the shifter. The gear shift knob is attached to the shifter using a set screw (Fig. 120). Access to the set screw is from the front of the shift knob and is removed using a 2 mm allen wrench (Fig. 120).
Fig. 118 Non-ABS Brake Proportioning
ValveLocation
Fig. 120 Shift Knob Retaining Screw
CLIPSBOOT
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(3) If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission remove the gearshift knob and shifter boot using the following procedure.
• Push shifter boot down to expose clips on gearshift knob and roll pin on shifter handle (Fig. 121).
• Pry the clips on the shifter knob away from the roll pin in the shifter handle using a flat blade pry tool (Fig. 121).
• Remove the shifter knob from the shifter handle, by pulling the shifter knob straight up (Fig. 122).
• Remove the shifter boot from the center console.
Shifter boot is removed by squeezing the bezel together at the base of the shifter boot and pulling upward on the boot (Fig. 123).
SHIFTER
BRAKES 5 - 51
Fig. 123 Boot Removal
(4) Remove the 2 screws attaching the front of the center console to the gear selector or shifter (Fig.
124) or (Fig. 125).
Fig. 121 Gearshift Knob
Fig. 124 Center Console Front Attaching Screws
(Automatic)
Fig. 122 Gearshift Knob Removal
Fig. 125 Center Console Front Attaching
Screws(Manual)
5 - 52 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(5) Raise the park brake hand lever to approximately the half way point of its total travel. This will allow for the required clearance to remove the center console.
(6) Remove the center console/arm rest from the vehicle.
(7) Lower park brake lever handle.
(8) Loosen adjusting nut (Fig. 126) on park brake lever output cable. This will take tension off output cable, allowing it to be easily removed from tension equalizer.
(10) Remove the park brake cable tension equalizer from the park brake lever output cable.
(11) Remove the electrical connector (Fig. 128) from the ground switch on the park brake lever mechanism
Fig. 126 Park Brake Lever Output Cable
AdjustmentNut
CAUTION: Discard output cable retaining clip after removing it from park brake cable tension equalizer.
Retainer is not to be re-used, a new retainer is to be installed when attaching output cable to tension equalizer.
(9) Using a screwdriver (Fig. 127) unlatch the park brake output cable retainer. Then remove cable retainer from park brake cable tension equalizer.
Fig. 128 Wiring Harness Connection To
GroundSwitch
(12) Unclip the wiring harness (Fig. 129) from the park brake mechanism bracket. Wiring harness is attached to bracket using 2 routing clips pushed through holes in the top of the bracket.
Fig. 129 Wiring Harness
Fig. 127 Output Cable To Equalizer RetainingClip
PARK BRACKET
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(13) Remove the 4 bolts (Fig. 130) attaching the park brake mechanism bracket.
BRAKES 5 - 53
(4) Install a NEW park brake cable tension equalizer on the park brake lever output cable and rear park brake cables (Fig. 131).
Fig. 130 Park Brake Lever Bracket Mounting
(14) Remove the park brake mechanism from the vehicle.
INSTALL
(1) Place the park brake mechanism on the console bracket. Install the 4 bolts (Fig. 130) mounting the park brake mechanism to the console bracket.
Tighten the 4 mounting bolts to a torque of 28 N·m
(250 in. lbs.).
(2) Install the wiring harness (Fig. 129) on the park brake mechanism bracket.
(3) Install the electrical connector on the ground switch of the park brake lever mechanism (Fig. 128).
CAUTION: A new cable tension equalizer must be installed when replacing the park brake mechanism.
The new cable tension equalizer is required to correctly adjust park brake cable tension after installing park brake mechanism.
Fig. 131 Park Brake Cable Tension Equalizer
CAUTION: A new park brake lever output cable retainer must be used when installing output cable on cable tension equalizer. Cable retainer usage is required to ensure output cable can not separate from tension equalizer.
(5) Install a new park brake lever output cable to tension equalizer retaining clip (Fig. 132) on tension equalizer. The cable retainer (Fig. 132) must be closed and securely latched.
Fig. 132 Cable Retainer Installed On
TensionEqualizer
5 - 54 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(6) Cable tension, for the parking brake system is to be correctly adjusted using the following steps.
• Position park brake lever so it is in the fully released position.
• Tighten adjusting nut (Fig. 133) on park brake lever output cable (Fig. 133) until 12 mm millimeters of thread is out past top edge of adjustment nut (Fig.
133).
• Actuate the park brake lever to its fully applied position (22 clicks) 1 time and then reposition lever to its fully released position.
Actuating the park brake lever to its fully applied position 1 time after tightening the adjustment nut will yield (stretch) the bent nail portion of the tension equalizer (Fig. 133) approximately 1/4 inch. This process will correctly set the park brake cable tension.
PARK BRAKE LEVER OUTPUT CABLE
On this vehicle, the park brake lever output cable
(Fig. 134), is not replaceable as a separate component of the park brake lever. Never attempt to repair the park brake output cable in any manner.
Fig. 134 Park Brake Lever MechanismOutput Cable
PARK BRAKE CABLES
For servicing of either the left or right rear park brake cable, follow the procedure as listed below.
REMOVE
(1) Remove the 2 screws (Fig. 135) attaching rear of center console assembly to console bracket.
Fig. 133 Park Brake Lever Output Cable Adjustment
(7) Check the rear wheels of the vehicle with the park brake lever fully released, they should rotate freely without dragging.
(8) After the park brake cable tension has been properly adjusted, check for free play in park brake lever. Park brake hand lever should feel firm at all clicks, with a maximum of 22 clicks of lever travel possible.
(9) Install the center console back in the vehicle.
(10) Install the 2 screws attaching the front of the center console to the forward console (Fig. 124) (Fig.
125).
(11) Install screws attaching rear of center console assembly to console bracket (Fig. 119).
(12) Install the shifter boot or PRNDL plate back in the center console.
(13) Install the shift knob on the shifter (Fig. 120) or (Fig. 122).
Fig. 135 Center Console Rear Attaching Screws
CLIPSBOOT
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(2) If vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission remove the shift knob from the shifter. The gear shift knob is attached to the shifter using a set screw (Fig. 136). Access to the set screw is from the front of the shift knob and is removed using a 2 mm allen wrench (Fig. 136).
BRAKES 5 - 55
Fig. 138 Gearshift Knob Removal
Fig. 136 Shift Knob Retaining Screw
(3) If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission remove the gearshift knob and shifter boot using the following procedure.
• Push shifter boot down to expose clips on gearshift knob and roll pin on shifter handle (Fig. 137).
• Pry the clips on the shifter knob away from the roll pin in the shifter handle using a flat blade pry tool (Fig. 137).
• Remove the shifter knob from the shifter handle, by pulling the shifter knob straight up (Fig. 138).
• Remove the shifter boot from the center console.
Shifter boot is removed by squeezing the bezel together at the base of the shifter boot and pulling upward on the boot (Fig. 139).
Fig. 139 Boot Removal
(4) Remove the 2 screws attaching the front of the center console to the gear selector or shifter (Fig.
140) or (Fig. 141).
Fig. 137 Gearshift Knob
Fig. 140 Center Console Front Attaching
Screws(Automatic)
PARK BRAKE HAND LEVER
SHIFTER
5 - 56 BRAKES
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
JA
(9) Remove the rear park brake cable requiring service, from the park brake cable tension equalizer
(Fig. 143).
Fig. 141 Center Console Front Attaching
Screws(Manual)
(5) Raise park brake hand lever to the mid-position of its travel. This will allow for the required clearance to remove center console.
(6) Remove center console/arm rest from vehicle.
(7) Lower park brake lever handle.
(8) Loosen adjusting nut (Fig. 142) on park brake cable output cable. This will take tension off park brake cables, allowing rear park brake cables to be easily removed from tension equalizer.
Fig. 143 Rear Park Brake Cables At Tension
(10) Remove rear seat cushion from vehicle.
(11) Remove scuff plates from right and left rear door sills. Scuff plates are attached to door sills using clips on bottom of scuff plates. Remove by carefully prying scuff plate retaining clips out of door sills.
(12) Fold rear carpeting forward to expose park brake cables.
(13) Remove the routing clip (Fig. 144) attaching the rear park brake cables to the floor pan of the vehicle.
Fig. 142 Park Brake Lever Output Cable
AdjustmentNut
Fig. 144 Park Brake Cable Attachment To FloorPan
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(14) Install the box end of a 1/2 in. wrench over the park brake cable retainer as indicated in (Fig.
145). This will compress tabs on park brake cable retainer, allowing cable to be removed from console bracket. From under carpet, grasp park brake cable housing and pull cable straight out of console bracket.
BRAKES 5 - 57
(18) Remove dust cap (Fig. 147) from rear hub/ bearing assembly.
Fig. 145 Compressing Park Brake Cable
RetainingTabs
(15) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(16) Remove rear wheel and tire assembly from the side of the vehicle requiring park brake cable service.
(17) Remove the rear brake drum (Fig. 146) from the rear hub/bearing assembly.
Fig. 147 Rear Hub/Bearing Dust Cap
(19) Remove the rear hub/bearing assembly retaining nut (Fig. 148).
Fig. 148 Hub/Bearing Assembly Retaining Nut
(20) Remove the rear hub/bearing assembly from the rear spindle.
Fig. 146 Rear Brake Drum
TRAILING
BRAKE
BRAKE
SHOE
FUEL TANK
5 - 58 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(21) Remove the park brake cable from the park brake actuating lever on the trailing brake shoe (Fig.
149).
(24) Remove the 2 routing brackets attaching the right hand side (Fig. 151) or left hand side (Fig. 152) park brake cable to the frame rail.
Fig. 149 Park Brake Cable At Actuating Lever
(22) Remove park brake cable (Fig. 150) from rear brake support plate. Park brake cable is removed from brake support plate using a 1/2 in. wrench as shown in (Fig. 150) to compress locking tabs on park brake cable retainer.
Fig. 151 Park Brake Cable Routing Brackets(Right
Side)
Fig. 150 Park Brake Cable Removal From
BrakeSupport Plate
(23) Raise vehicle.
NOTE: The park brake cable routing and routing brackets are different on the right and left side of the vehicle.
Fig. 152 Park Brake Cable Routing Brackets(Left
Side)
PARK FUEL TANK GROMMET FUEL LINES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(25) Remove the park brake cable and sealing grommet (Fig. 153) from the floor pan of the vehicle.
BRAKES 5 - 59
(5) Install hub/bearing assembly on rear spindle.
Then install a new rear hub/bearing assembly retaining nut (Fig. 148). Torque hub/bearing assembly to spindle retaining nut to 250 N·m (185 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install hub/bearing assembly dust cap, (Fig.
147) using a soft faced hammer.
(7) Install rear brake drum on hub/bearing assembly (Fig. 146).
(8) Install rear wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
Tighten all wheel stud nuts in criss cross pattern to one-half specified torque. Then repeat pattern, fully tightening stud nuts to 129 N·m (95 ft. lbs.).
(9) Lower vehicle.
(10) Grasp park brake cable to floor pan seal grommet by hand, and pull it into floor pan to ensure seal grommet is fully seated into floor pan.
(11) Route park brake cable under carpeting and up to park brake cable hole in console bracket on floor pan. Then install park brake cable into console bracket (Fig. 154). Be sure tabs (Fig. 154) on park brake cable retainer, have expanded out to hold park brake cable in console bracket.
Fig. 153 Park Brake Cable Removal / InstallationAt
Floor Pan
INSTALL
(1) Install park brake cable into floor pan of vehicle making sure sealing grommet (Fig. 153) is installed in floor pan as far as possible to insure a proper seal.
(2) Install park brake cable into the rear brake support plate. Be sure locking tabs on cable retainer are expanded to ensure park brake cable is securely held in the support plate.
NOTE: The park brake cable routing and routing brackets are different on the right and left side of the vehicle. Be sure the correct routing brackets are installed on the correct side of the vehicle. The routing brackets will ensure the correct routing of the park brake cable for the side of the vehicle it is installed on.
(3) Install the 2 park brake cable routing brackets
(Fig. 151) or (Fig. 152) on the right or left side rear frame rail. Install and securely tighten routing bracket attaching bolts.
(4) Install the park brake cable on the park brake actuating lever of the trailing brake shoe (Fig. 149).
Fig. 154 Park Brake Cable Installed In
ConsoleBracket
(12) Install the routing bracket holding park brake cables to the floor pan of the vehicle (Fig. 144).
CAUTION: Discard output cable retaining clip and tension equalizer after removing it from the park brake output cable. A new tension equalizer and retaining clip is to be used when installing a new rear park brake cable.
5 - 60 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(13) Using a screwdriver (Fig. 155) unlatch the park brake output cable retainer. Then remove cable retainer and park brake cable tension equalizer from park brake lever output cable and discard compo- nents.
(15) Install a new park brake lever output cable to tension equalizer retaining clip (Fig. 157) on tension equalizer. The cable retainer (Fig. 157) must be closed and securely latched.
Fig. 155 Output Cable To Equalizer RetainingClip
CAUTION: A new cable tension equalizer must be installed when replacing a rear park brake cable.
The new cable tension equalizer is required to correctly adjust park brake cable tension after installing a new rear park brake cable.
(14) Install a NEW park brake cable tension equalizer on the park brake lever output cable and rear park brake cables (Fig. 156).
Fig. 157 Cable Retainer Installed On
TensionEqualizer
(16) Cable tension, for the parking brake system is to be correctly adjusted using the following steps.
• Position park brake lever so it is in the fully released position.
• Tighten adjusting nut (Fig. 158) on park brake lever output cable (Fig. 158) until 12 mm millimeters of thread is out past top edge of adjustment nut (Fig.
158).
•
Actuate the park brake lever to its fully applied position (21 clicks) 1 time and then reposition lever to its fully released position.
NOTE: Actuating the park brake lever to its fully applied position 1 time after tightening the adjustment nut will yield (stretch) the bent nail portion of the tension equalizer (Fig. 158) approximately 1/4 inch. This process will correctly set the park brake cable tension.
Fig. 156 Park Brake Cable Tension Equalizer
CAUTION: A new retainer (Fig. 157) must be used when installing the park brake mechanism output cable on the cable tension equalizer. Cable retainer usage is required to ensure output cable can not separate from tension equalizer.
Fig. 158 Park Brake Lever Output Cable Adjustment
BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH BRACKET
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(17) Check the rear wheels of the vehicle with the park brake lever fully released, they should rotate freely without dragging.
(18) After the park brake cable tension has been properly adjusted, check for free play in park brake lever. Park brake hand lever should feel firm at all clicks, with a maximum of 21 clicks of lever travel possible.
(19) Install the center console back in the vehicle.
(20) Install the 2 screws attaching the front of the center console (Fig. 140) or (Fig. 141).
(21) Install screws attaching rear of center console assembly to console bracket (Fig. 135).
(22) Install the shifter boot or PRNDL plate back in the center console.
(23) Install the shift knob on the shifter (Fig. 136) or (Fig. 138).
(24) Install rear carpeting.
(25) Install both rear door sill plate scuff moldings, by snapping them onto rear door sills.
(26) Install lower rear seat cushion. Be sure lower seat cushion is fully installed in retainers on floor pan of vehicle.
INSTALL
BRAKES 5 - 61
NOTE: Prior to installing stop lamp switch into bracket, the plunger must be moved to its fully extended position using procedure in Step 1.
(1) Hold stop lamp switch firmly in one hand.
Then using other hand, pull outward on the plunger of the stop lamp switch until it has ratcheted out to its fully extended position.
(2) Connect the wiring harness connector to the stop lamp switch.
(3) Mount the stop lamp switch into the bracket using the following procedure. Depress the brake pedal as far down as possible. Then install switch in bracket by aligning index key on switch with slot at top of square hole in mounting bracket. When switch is fully installed in bracket, rotate switch clockwise approximately 30° to lock switch into bracket.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when pulling back on brake pedal to adjust the stop lamp switch.
If to much force is used, damage to the stop lamp switch or striker (Fig. 159) can result.
STOP LAMP SWITCH
(4) Gently pull back on brake pedal until the pedal stops moving. This will cause the switch plunger to ratchet backward to the correct position.
REMOVE
(1) Depress and hold the brake pedal while rotating stop lamp switch (Fig. 159) in a counter-clockwise direction approximately 30 degrees.
(2) Pull the switch rearward and remove from its mounting bracket.
(3) Disconnect wiring harness connector from stop lamp switch.
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY
BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR
NOTE: To replace the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir on this vehicle, it is not necessary to remove the master cylinder from the power brake vacuum booster.
Fig. 159 Stop Lamp Switch
(1) Using Mopar, Brake Parts Cleaner or an equivalent, thoroughly clean the master cylinder and brake fluid reservoir.
(2) Remove the brake fluid reservoir filler cap.
(3) Using a syringe or equivalent type tool, empty as much brake fluid as possible from the reservoir.
CAUTION: Do not pry fluid reservoir off master cylinder using a tool, damage to the reservoir or master cylinder can result.
(4) Remove brake fluid reservoir from master cylinder by rocking the reservoir from side to side while pulling upward on the fluid reservoir.
FLUID RESERGROMMET TOR BRAKE
5 - 62 BRAKES
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
(5) Remove master cylinder housing to brake fluid reservoir sealing grommets (Fig. 160).
(2) Compress the retaining tabs (Fig. 162) on the end of the brake fluid level sensor.
Fig. 160 Removing Fluid Reservoir From
MasterCylinder
CAUTION: To ensure a leak proof seal when installing a fluid reservoir, never reuse the original fluid reservoir to master cylinder sealing grommets.
(6) Install new master cylinder housing to brake fluid reservoir sealing grommets (Fig. 160) in master cylinder housing.
(7) Lubricate reservoir mounting area with fresh clean brake fluid. Place reservoir in position over grommets. Seat reservoir into grommets using a rocking motion while firmly pressing down on fluid reservoir.
(8) Be sure reservoir is positioned properly.
(9) Make sure bottom of fluid reservoir touches top of both sealing grommets.
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
The master cylinder or brake fluid reservoir does not have to be removed from the vehicle for replacement of the brake fluid level sensor.
(1) Remove wiring harness connector from brake fluid reservoir level sensor (Fig. 161).
Fig. 162 Brake Fluid Level Switch RetainingTabs
(3) While compressing retaining tabs, grasp opposite end of brake fluid level sensor and pull it out of master cylinder fluid reservoir (Fig. 163).
Fig. 161 Master Cylinder Fluid Level Sensor
Fig. 163 Removing Fluid Level Switch
FromReservoir
FRONT AND REAR DISC BRAKE CALIPER
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Check for brake fluid leaks in and around dust boot area and inboard brake pad, and for any ruptures, brittleness or damage to the piston dust boot.
If the dust boot is damaged, or a fluid leak is visible, disassemble caliper assembly and install a new piston seal and dust boot, and piston if scored. Refer to
Caliper Disassembly And Re-Assembly Procedures in
Disc Brake Caliper Service in this section of the service manual.
Check the guide pin dust boots to determine if they are in good condition. Replace if they are damaged, dry, or found to be brittle. Refer to Guide Pin Bush-
SLEEVE CALIPER BUSHING CALIPER BUSHING
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued) ing Service in Disc Brake Caliper Service in this section of the service manual.
BRAKES 5 - 63
(3) Using your fingers, collapse one side of the bushing. Then pull on the opposite side to remove the bushing from the brake caliper housing (Fig.
165).
CALIPER GUIDE PIN BUSHING SERVICE
The double pin caliper uses a sealed for life bushing and sleeve assembly. If required this assembly can be serviced using the following procedure.
REMOVING CALIPER GUIDE PIN BUSHINGS
(1) Remove caliper from brake rotor (See Brake
Shoe Removal). Hang caliper assembly on a wire hook away from the brake rotor.
(2) Push out and then pull the steel sleeve from the inside of the bushing using your fingers as shown in (Fig. 164).
Fig. 164 Removing Inner Sleeve From Bushing
Fig. 165 Removing Bushing From Caliper
INSTALLING CALIPER GUIDE PIN BUSHINGS
(1) Fold the bushing in half lengthwise at the solid middle section of the bushing (Fig. 166).
Fig. 166 Folded Caliper Guide Pin Bushing
CALIPER BUSHING CALIPER
5 - 64 BRAKES
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
(2) Insert the folded bushing into the caliper housing (Fig. 167). Do not use a sharp object to per- form this step due to possible damage to the bushing.
(4) Lubricate the inside surfaces of the bushing using
Mopar, Silicone Dielectric Compound or an equivalent.
(5) Install guide pin sleeve into one end of bushing until seal area of bushing is past seal groove in sleeve (Fig. 169).
Fig. 167 Installing Caliper Guide Pin Bushing
(3) Unfold the bushing using your fingers or a wooden dowel until the bushing is fully seated into the caliper housing. Flanges should be seated evenly on both sides of the bushing hole (Fig. 168).
Fig. 169 Installing Sleeve In Bushing
(6) Holding convoluted boot end of bushing with one hand, push steel sleeve bushing through boot until one end of bushing is fully seated into seal groove on one end of sleeve (Fig. 169).
Fig. 168 Bushing Correctly Installed In Caliper
CALIPER BUSHINGSLEEVE CALIPER
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
(7) Holding sleeve in place, work other end of bushing over end of sleeve and into the seal grove on sleeve (Fig. 170). Be sure other end of bushing did not come out of seal grove in sleeve.
BRAKES 5 - 65
(3) If both front caliper pistons are to be removed, disconnect brake tube at flexible brake hose at frame rail. Plug brake tube and remove piston from opposite caliper using the same process as above for the first piston removal.
(4) Disconnect the brake fluid flex hose from the caliper assembly.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when clamping caliper in vise. Excessive vise pressure will cause bore distortion and binding of piston.
(5) To disassemble caliper, mount in a vise equipped with protective jaws.
(6) Remove guide pin sleeves and guide pin bushings. See Removing Guide Pin Bushings in the caliper disassembly section of this manual.
(7) Remove the piston dust boot from the caliper and discard (Fig. 171).
Fig. 170 Correctly Installed Caliper SleeveAnd
Bushing
(8) When the sleeve is seated properly into the bushing, the sealed for life sleeve/bushing can be held between your fingers and easily slid back and forth without the bushing unseating from the sleeve groove.
CALIPER DISASSEMBLY
WARNING: UNDER NO CONDITION SHOULD AIR
PRESSURE EVER BE USED TO REMOVE A PISTON
FROM A CALIPER BORE.
PERSONAL INJURY
COULD RESULT FROM SUCH A PRACTICE.
(1) Remove caliper from brake rotor (See Brake
Shoe Removal). Hang assembly on a wire hook away from rotor, so hydraulic fluid cannot get on rotor.
Place a small piece of wood between the piston and caliper fingers.
(2) Carefully depress brake pedal to hydraulically push piston out of bore. Then apply and hold down the brake pedal to any position beyond the first inch of pedal travel. This will prevent loss of brake fluid from the master cylinder.
Fig. 171 Removing Caliper/Piston Dust Boot
PISTON SEAL PLASTIC TRIM STICK CALIPER
5 - 66 BRAKES
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
(8) Using a soft tool, such as a plastic trim stick, work piston seal out of its groove in caliper piston bore (Fig. 172). Discard old seal. Do not use a screw driver or other metal tool for this operation, because of the possibility of scratching piston bore or burring edges of seal groove.
(10) Inspect the piston bore for scoring or pitting.
Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usually be cleared of the light scratches or corrosion using crocus cloth. Bores that have deep scratches or scoring should be honed. Use Caliper Hone, Special
Tool C-4095, or equivalent providing the diameter of the bore is not increased more than 0.0254 mm
(0.001 inch) (Fig. 173).
Fig. 172 Removing Piston Seal From Caliper
(9) Clean all parts using alcohol or a suitable solvent and wipe dry using only a lint free cloth. No lint residue can remain in caliper bore. Clean out all drilled passages and bores. Whenever a caliper has been disassembled, a new boot and seal must be installed at assembly.
Fig. 173 Honing Brake Caliper Piston Bore
(11) If the bore does not clean up within this specification, a new caliper housing should be installed.
Install a new piston if the old one is pitted or scored.
NOTE: When using Caliper Honing Tool, Special
Tool C-4095, coat the stones and bore with brake fluid. After honing the bore, carefully clean the seal and boot grooves with a stiff non-metallic rotary brush.
NOTE: Use extreme care in cleaning the caliper after honing. Remove all dirt and grit by flushing the caliper with brake fluid; wipe dry with a clean, lint free cloth and then clean a second time.
CAUTION: When inspecting caliper piston, do not use anything but solvents to clean piston surface. If surface of piston cannot be cleaned using only solvents, piston must be replaced.
(12) Inspect caliper piston for pitting, scratches, or any physical damage. Replace piston if there is evidence of scratches, pitting or physical damage.
CALIPER CALIPER SPECIAL TOOL CALIPER PISTON C-4689
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
CALIPER ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Excessive vise pressure will cause bore distortion and binding of piston.
BRAKES 5 - 67
(5) Install piston into caliper bore pushing it past the piston seal until it bottoms in the caliper bore
(Fig. 175).
(1) Clamp caliper in a vise (with protective caps installed on jaws of vise).
(2) Dip new piston seal in clean brake fluid and install in the groove of the caliper bore. Seal should be positioned at one area in groove and gently worked around the groove (Fig. 174), using only your fingers until properly seated. NEVER USE AN OLD
PISTON SEAL. Be sure that fingers are clean and seal is not twisted or rolled (Fig. 174).
Fig. 174 Installing New Piston Seal In Caliper
(3) Coat new piston boot with clean brake fluid leaving a generous amount inside boot.
(4) Position dust boot over piston after coating with brake fluid.
CAUTION: Force must be applied to the piston uniformly to avoid cocking and binding of the piston in the bore of the caliper.
Fig. 175 Installing Piston Into Caliper Bore
(6) Position dust boot into the counterbore of the caliper assembly piston bore.
(7) Using a hammer and Installer Piston Caliper
Boot, Special Tool C-4689 and Handle, Special Tool
C-4171, drive boot into counterbore of the caliper
(Fig. 176).
Fig. 176 Installing Dust Boot In Caliper Counterbore
(8) Install guide pin sleeves and bushings. See
Install Guide Pin Bushings section in the caliper disassembly section of this manual.
5 - 68 BRAKES
JA
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)
(9) Install brake pads. See Installing Brake Pads in the Brake Pad Service Procedures section of this manual.
(10) Before installing caliper assembly on vehicle, inspect brake rotor. If any conditions as described in
Checking Brake Rotor for Runout and Thickness are present the rotor, must be replaced or refaced. If the rotor does not require any servicing, install caliper assembly.
(11) Install brake hose onto caliper using banjo bolt. Torque the brake hose to caliper assembly banjo bolt to 33 N·m (24 ft. lbs.). New seal washers
MUST always be used when installing brake hose to caliper.
(12) Bleed the brake system (see Bleeding Brake
System).
WHEEL CYLINDER REAR DRUM BRAKE
DISASSEMBLE
To disassemble the wheel cylinders, proceed as follows:
(1) Pry boots away from cylinders and remove (Fig.
177).
(2) Press IN on one piston to force out opposite piston, cup and spring (Fig. 177). Then using a soft tool such as a dowel rod, press out the cup and piston that remain in the wheel cylinder.
(3) Wash wheel cylinder, pistons, and spring (Fig.
177) in clean brake fluid or alcohol; (DO NOT USE
ANY PETROLEUM BASE SOLVENTS) clean thoroughly and blow dry with compressed air. Inspect cylinder bore and piston for scoring and pitting. (Do not use a rag as lint from the rag will stick to bore surfaces.)
(4) Wheel cylinder bores and pistons that are badly scored or pitted should be replaced. Cylinder walls that have light scratches, or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned with crocus cloth, using a circular motion. Black stains on the cylinder walls are caused by piston cups and will not impair operation of cylinder.
ASSEMBLE
Before assembling the pistons and new cups in the wheel cylinders, dip them in clean brake fluid. If the boots are deteriorated, cracked or do not fit tightly on the pistons or the cylinder casting, install new boots.
(1) Coat cylinder bore with clean brake fluid.
(2) Lightly coat the sealing lip and outer surfaces of the wheel cylinder cups with Mopar Protect-A-Cup
Lubricant.
(3) Install expansion spring with cup expanders in cylinder. Install cups in each end of cylinder with open end of cups facing each other (Fig. 177).
(4) Install piston in each end of cylinder having the flat face of each piston contacting the flat face of each cup, already installed (Fig. 177).
(5) Install a boot over each end of cylinder (Fig.
177). Be careful not to damage boot during installation.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
FRONT DISC BRAKE COMPONENT INSPECTION
BRAKE PAD LINING WEAR
If a visual inspection does not adequately determine the condition of the front disc brake shoe lining, a physical check will be necessary. To check the amount of brake shoe lining wear, remove the wheel and tire assemblies, and the calipers.
Remove the front brake shoes. (See Brake Shoe
Removal paragraph).
Combined front brake shoe thickness should be measured at the thinnest part of the assembly.
When a set of brake shoes are worn to a total thickness of approximately 9.0 mm (3/8 inch) they should be replaced.
Replace both brake shoes (inboard and outboard) on both front sides of the vehicle.
If the front disc brake shoes do not require replacement, reinstall, the brake shoes making sure each brake shoe is returned to the original position on the vehicle it was removed from. (See Brake Pad Installation).
CALIPER INSPECTION
Check caliper for piston seal leaks (brake fluid in and around boot area and inboard lining) and for any ruptures of the piston dust boot. If boot is damaged, or fluid leak is visible, disassemble caliper and install a new seal and boot, (and piston if scored).
Refer to Caliper Disassembly And Re-Assembly Procedures in Disc Brake Caliper Service in this section of the service manual.
Check the caliper dust boot and caliper pin bushings to determine if they are in good condition.
Replace if they are damaged, dry, or found to be brittle. Refer to Guide Pin Bushing Service in Disc
Brake Caliper Service in this section of the service manual.
REAR DRUM BRAKES
Clean metal portion of brake shoes. Check to see if shoes are bent.
Lining should show contact across entire width and from heel to toe, otherwise replace.
Measure the combined thickness of the leading and trailing brake shoe and lining (Fig. 178). The lining used on the leading and trailing brake shoes of this
PISTON CYLINDER CUP
JA
CLEANING AND INSPECTION (Continued)
CUP CUP AND PISTON
BRAKES 5 - 69
Fig. 177 Rear Wheel Cylinder (Exploded View)
vehicle are of different thicknesses. Therefore, the minimum thickness measurement for the replacement of the leading and trailing brake shoes are different.
When measuring the thickness, the measurement is the combined thickness of the brake shoe rim and the brake shoe lining (Fig. 178). The minimum combined leading brake shoe rim and lining thickness specification for replacement is 3.0 mm
(Fig. 178). The minimum combined trailing brake shoe rim and lining thickness specification for replacement is 2.8 mm or less (Fig. 178).
• Be sure the quadrant (Fig. 179) is free to rotate throughout its entire tooth contact range.
• Ensure that the quadrant is free to slide the full length of its mounting slot in the adjuster mechanism.
• Inspect the quadrant spring (Fig. 179) for any signs of excessive wear or damage.
• Ensure that the knurled pin (Fig. 179) is securely attached to the adjuster mechanism and that its teeth are not damaged.
• Overall, examine the adjuster mechanism for excessive wear or damage and replace if necessary.
If the adjuster mechanism is re-useable, apply a light coat of Mopar Multi-Purpose Lubricant or equivalent, between the quadrant and the strut of the adjuster mechanism (Fig. 179).
Fig. 178 Brake Shoe Lining Thickness Measurement
Shoes with lack of contact at toe or heel may be improperly ground.
Clean and inspect the brake support plate and the automatic self adjusting mechanism.
Visually examine the adjuster assembly to ensure it is functioning correctly by checking for the following operation.
Fig. 179 Automatic Self Adjuster Mechanism
BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH BRACKET
5 - 70 BRAKES
CLEANING AND INSPECTION (Continued)
If old springs have overheated or are damaged, replace. Overheating indications are paint discoloration or distorted end coils.
REAR DRUM BRAKE WHEEL CYLINDER
With brake drums removed, inspect the wheel cylinder boots for evidence of a brake fluid leak. Visually check the boots for cuts, tears, or heat cracks. If any of these conditions exist, the wheel cylinders should be completely cleaned, inspected and new parts installed.
If a wheel cylinder is leaking and the brake lining material is saturated with brake fluid, the brake shoes must be replaced.
CHASSIS TUBES AND HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front and rear brakes. Inspection of brake hoses should be performed whenever the brake system is serviced and every 7,500 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first (every engine oil change). Inspect hydraulic brake hoses for severe surface cracking, scuffing, worn spots or physical damage. If the fabric casing of the rubber hose becomes exposed due to cracks or abrasions in the rubber hose cover, the hose should be replaced immediately. Eventual deterioration of the hose can take place with possible burst failure.
Faulty installation can cause twisting, resulting in wheel, tire, or chassis interference.
The steel brake tubing should be inspected periodically for evidence of corrosion, physical damage or contact with moving or hot components of the vehicle.
REAR WHEEL HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
The rear hub and bearing assembly is designed for the life of the vehicle and should require no maintenance. The following procedure may be used for evaluation of bearing condition.
With wheel and brake drum removed, rotate flanged outer ring of hub. Excessive roughness, lateral play or resistance to rotation may indicate dirt intrusion or bearing failure. If the rear wheel bearings exhibit these conditions during inspection, the hub and bearing assembly should be replaced.
Damaged bearing seals and resulting excessive grease loss may also require bearing replacement.
Moderate grease loss from bearing is considered normal and should not require replacement of the hub and bearing assembly.
ADJUSTMENTS
STOP LAMP SWITCH
(1) Remove stop lamp switch from its bracket by rotating it approximately 30° in a counter-clockwise direction.
(2) Disconnect wiring harness connector from stop lamp switch.
(3) Hold stop lamp switch firmly in one hand.
Then using other hand, pull outward on the plunger of the stop lamp switch until it has ratcheted out to its fully extended position.
(4) Install the stop lamp switch into the bracket using the following procedure. Depress the brake pedal as far down as possible. Then while keeping the brake pedal depressed, install the stop lamp switch into the bracket by aligning index key on switch with slot at top of square hole in mounting bracket. When switch is fully installed in the square hole of the bracket, rotate switch clockwise approximately 30° to lock the switch into the bracket.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when pulling back on brake pedal to adjust the stop lamp switch.
If too much force is used, damage to the vacuum booster, stop lamp switch or striker (Fig. 180) can result.
(5) Connect the wiring harness connector to the stop lamp switch.
(6) Gently pull back on brake pedal until the pedal stops moving. This will cause the switch plunger
(Fig. 180) to ratchet backward to the correct position.
Fig. 180 Stop Light Switch Location In Vehicle
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ADJUSTMENTS (Continued)
REAR DRUM BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Unique to this vehicle is a new fully automatic adjusting mechanism (Fig. 181) for the rear drum brakes. The rear drum brakes used on this vehicle have no provisions to be manually adjusted and should not require manual brake shoe adjustment for the life of the linings. Although in the event of a brake reline, it will require the automatic adjuster to be reset. After resetting the automatic adjuster the initial adjustment procedure must be done prior to driving the vehicle.
LEVER OUTPUT
BRAKES 5 - 71
PARKING BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
This vehicle uses a bent nail type park brake cable tension equalizer (Fig. 182). The bent nail tension equalizer it to be used only one time to set the park brake cable tension. If the park brake cables require adjustment during the life of the vehicle, a NEW tension equalizer MUST be installed before doing the park cable adjustment procedure.
Fig. 181 Rear Drum Brake Automatic Self
AdjusterMechanism
REAR DRUM BRAKE INITIAL ADJUSTMENT
PROCEDURE
(1) Be sure parking brake lever is fully released.
(2) Fully apply the vehicles service brakes 2 to 3 times by depressing the brake pedal as far as possible. This will cause the automatic adjuster mechanism to correctly adjust the rear drum brakes.
(3) Apply and release the park brake lever one time after the service brakes have been correctly adjusted.
(4) This procedure has correctly adjusted the vehicle’s rear service brakes.
Fig. 182 Bent Nail Park Brake Cable
TensionEqualizer
(1) Remove the 3 screws (Fig. 183) attaching the rear of the center console.
Fig. 183 Center Console Rear Attaching Screws
CENTER CONSOLE COVER
CLIPSBOOT
5 - 72 BRAKES
ADJUSTMENTS (Continued)
(2) If vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission remove the shift knob from the shifter. The gear shift knob is attached to the shifter using a set screw (Fig. 184). Access to the set screw is from the front of the shift knob and is removed using a 2 mm allen wrench (Fig. 184).
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Fig. 186 Gearshift Knob Removal
Fig. 184 Shift Knob Retaining Screw
(3) If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission remove the gearshift knob and shifter boot using the following procedure.
• Push shifter boot down to expose clips on gearshift knob and roll pin on shifter handle (Fig. 185).
• Pry the clips on the shifter knob away from the roll pin in the shifter handle using a flat blade pry tool (Fig. 185).
• Remove the shifter knob from the shifter handle, by pulling the shifter knob straight up (Fig. 186).
• Remove the shifter boot from the center console.
Shifter boot is removed by squeezing the bezel together at the base of the shifter boot and pulling upward on the boot (Fig. 187).
Fig. 187 Boot Removal
(4) Remove the 2 screws attaching the front of the center console to the gear selector or shifter (Fig.
188) or (Fig. 189).
Fig. 185 Gearshift Knob Fig. 188 Center Console Front Attaching
Screws(Automatic)
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ADJUSTMENTS (Continued)
SHIFTER
BRAKES 5 - 73
(9) Using a screwdriver (Fig. 191) unlatch the park brake output cable retainer. Then remove cable retainer from park brake cable tension equalizer.
Fig. 189 Center Console Front Attaching
Screws(Manual)
(5) Raise the park brake hand lever to approximately the half way point or its travel. This will provide the required clearance to remove center console.
(6) Remove center console/arm rest from vehicle.
(7) Lower park brake lever handle.
(8) Loosen adjusting nut (Fig. 190) on park brake cable output cable. This will take tension off output cable, allowing it to be easily removed from tension equalizer.
Fig. 191 Output Cable To Equalizer RetainingClip
(10) Remove the park brake cable tension equalizer from the park brake lever output cable and the rear park brake cables (Fig. 192).
Fig. 190 Park Brake Lever Output Cable
AdjustmentNut
CAUTION: Discard output cable retaining clip after removing it from park brake cable tension equalizer.
Retainer is not to be re-used, a new retainer is to be installed when attaching output cable to tension equalizer.
Fig. 192 Park Brake Cable Tension Equalizer
CAUTION: A new cable tension equalizer must be installed when adjusting park brake cable tension.
(11) Install a NEW park brake cable tension equalizer on the park brake lever output cable and rear park brake cables (Fig. 192).
CAUTION: A new park brake lever output cable retainer must be used when installing output cable on cable tension equalizer. Cable retainer usage is required to ensure output cable can not separate from tension equalizer.
5 - 74 BRAKES
ADJUSTMENTS (Continued)
(12) Install a new park brake lever output cable to tension equalizer retaining clip (Fig. 193) on tension equalizer. The cable retainer (Fig. 193) must be closed and securely latched.
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NOTE: Actuating the park brake lever to its fully applied position 1 time after tightening the adjustment nut will yield (stretch) the bent nail portion of the tension equalizer (Fig. 194) approximately 1/4 inch. This process will correctly set the park brake cable tension.
Fig. 193 Cable Retainer InstalledOn Tension
Equalizer
(13) Cable tension, for the parking brake system is to be correctly adjusted using the following steps.
• Position park brake lever so it is in the fully released position.
• Tighten adjusting nut (Fig. 194) on park brake lever output cable until 12 millimeters of thread is out past top edge of adjustment nut (Fig. 194).
• Actuate the park brake lever to its fully applied position (21 clicks) 1 time and then release.
Fig. 194 Park Brake Lever Output Cable Adjustment
(14) Check the rear wheels of the vehicle, they should rotate freely without dragging.
(15) After the park brake cable tension has been properly adjusted, check for free play in park brake lever. Park brake hand lever should feel firm at all clicks, with a maximum of 21 clicks of lever travel possible.
(16) Install the 2 screws attaching the front of the center console (Fig. 188) or (Fig. 189).
(17) Install screws attaching rear of center console assembly to console bracket (Fig. 103).
(18) Install the shifter boot or PRNDL plate back in the center console.
(19) Install the shift knob on the shifter (Fig. 184) or (Fig. 186).
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BRAKES 5 - 75
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid from an container which has been left open. An open container will absorb moisture from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleumbased fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid ect.
BRAKE ACTUATING SYSTEM
ACTUATION:
Vacuum Operated Power Brakes . . . . . . . . Standard
Hydraulic System . . . . . . . . . . Dual-Diagonally Split
MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY:
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bendix
Body Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anodized Aluminum
Reservoir Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Polypropelene
MASTER CYLINDER BORE / STROKE AND
SPLIT:
Non ABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.2 mm x 33.4 mm
(.874 in. x 1.32 in.)
ABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22.2 mm x 33.4 mm
(.874 in. x 1.32 in.)
Displacement Split . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 / 50
MASTER CYLINDER FLUID OUTLET PORTS:
ABS . . . . . . . . . . Primary 3/8–24 Secondary 7/16–24
Non ABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Primary Inboard And
Outboard 7/16–24
Non ABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Secondary Inboard And
Outboard 3/8–23
Outlet Fitting Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Double Wall
Inverted Flare
ABS HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT:
Hydraulic Tube Fitting Type . . . . . . . . . Double Wall
Inverted Flare
BOOSTER:
Make/Type . . . . . . . . Bendix Vacuum W/&W/O ABS
Mounting Studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . M8 x 1.25
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 mm Tandem
ACTUATION:
Boost At 20 inches Of Manifold Vacuum . . . 4690 All
SCREW IN PROPORTIONING VALVE:
Material . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aluminum
Function . . . . . . . Hydraulic Pressure Proportioning
BRAKE PEDAL
Pedal Ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.32
BRAKE FASTENER TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
BRAKE TUBES:
Tube Nuts To Fittings And omponents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 N·m (145 in. lbs.)
BRAKE HOSE:
To Caliper Banjo Bolt . . . . . . . . . 48 N·m (35 ft. lbs.)
Intermediate Bracket . . . . . . . . . 23 N·m (17 ft. lbs.)
MASTER CYLINDER:
To Vacuum Booster
Mounting Nut . . . . . . . . . . . 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
BRAKE BOOSTER:
To Dash Panel
Mounting Nuts . . . . . . . . . . . 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
REAR WHEEL CYLINDER:
To Support Plate
Mounting Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . 11 N·m (97 in. lbs.)
Bleeder Screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 N·m (75 in. lbs.)
BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE:
To Axle Mounting Bolts . . . . . . . 63 N·m (46 ft. lbs.)
DISC BRAKE CALIPER:
Guide Pin Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 N·m (16 ft. lbs.)
Bleeder Screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.)
ABS HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT:
To Mounting Bracket Bolts . . . 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
Bracket To Crossmember
Mounting Bolts . . . . . . . . . . 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
PARKING BRAKE:
Lever Mounting Nuts . . . . . . . . 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
REAR HUB AND BEARING:
To Knuckle Retaining Nut . . . 250 N·m (185 ft. lbs.)
WHEEL:
Stud Lug Nut . . . . . . . 109–150 N·m (80–110 ft. lbs.)
5 - 76 BRAKES
SPECIAL TOOLS
BASE BRAKE SYSTEM
Adapters, Brake Pressure Test 6805
Installer, Dust Boot C-4689
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Dial Indicator C-3339
Gauge Set C-4007-A
Tubes, Master Cylinder Bleeding 6802
Handle, Universal C-4171
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BRAKES 5 - 77
ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM–BENDIX ABX-4
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
ABS AMBER WARNING LAMP FUNCTION AND
LOCATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
ABS BRAKES HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT
(HCU) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
ABS BRAKING MODE HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT
SOLENOID AND VALVE FUNCTION . . . . . . . 82
ABS COMPONENT ABBREVIATION LIST . . . . . 77
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
ABS MASTER CYLINDER AND POWER BRAKE
VACUUM BOOSTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
PERFORMANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
DESCRIPTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
CONTROLLER ANTILOCK BRAKES (CAB) . . . . 82
SOLENOIDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT FLUID SUMPS . . 80
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT PUMP MOTOR
ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT SHUTTLE
VALVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
PUMP/MOTOR RELAY OPERATION . . . . . . . . . 80
RELAY BOX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
ABS (DRB) DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
. . . . . 83
INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
. . . . . . . . . . . . 85
BRAKE FLUID CONTAMINATION . . . . . . . . . . . 85
INDEX
page page
DIAGNOSTIC TESTER (DRB) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
DIAGNOSTICS MANUAL INFORMATION
. . . . . 83
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM PROPORTIONING
VALVE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
INTERMITTENT DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE
CODES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
SELF DIAGNOSTICS INFORMATION . . . . . . . . 83
TONEWHEEL INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
VEHICLE TEST DRIVE INFORMATION AND
PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
SERVICE PROCEDURES
PROCEDURE INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . 86
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
ABS HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT . . . . . . . . . . 87
CONTROLLER ANTILOCK BRAKES (CAB) . . . . 93
. . . . . . . . . . 94
. . . . . . . . . . . 87
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT RELAY BOX . . . . 92
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM PROPORTIONING
VALVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
MASTER CYLINDER AND POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
. . . . . . . . . . 96
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
SPEED SENSOR TONE WHEEL RUNOUT . . . . 97
WHEEL SPEED SENSOR TO TONE WHEEL
CLEARANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
ANTILOCK BRAKES OPERATION DESCRIPTION
The purpose of the Antilock Brake System (ABS) is to prevent wheel lock-up under heavy braking conditions on virtually any type of road surface. Antilock
Braking is desirable because a vehicle which is stopped without locking the wheels will retain directional stability and some steering capability. This allows the driver to retain greater control of the vehicle during heavy braking.
This section of the service manual covers the description and on car service for the Bendix ABX-4
Brake System. If other service is required on the non
ABS related components of the brake system, refer to the appropriate section in this group of the manual for the specific service procedure required.
ABS COMPONENT ABBREVIATION LIST
In this section of the service manual several abbreviations are used for the components that are in the
Bendix ABX-4 Brake System. These components are listed below for your reference.
•
CAB—Controller Antilock Brake
• HCU—Hydraulic Control Unit
• ABS—Antilock Brake System
• PSI—Pounds per Square Inch (pressure)
• WSS—Wheel Speed Sensor
5 - 78 BRAKES
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
• FWD—Front Wheel Drive
• DTC—Diagnostic Trouble Code
ABS OPERATION AND VEHICLE PERFORMANCE
This ABS System represents the current state-ofthe-art in vehicle braking systems and offers the driver increased safety and control during braking.
This is accomplished by a sophisticated system of electrical and hydraulic components. As a result, there are a few performance characteristics that may at first seem different but should be considered normal. These characteristics are discussed below.
the tires ride on a film of water. This results in the vehicles tires leaving the road surface rendering the vehicle virtually uncontrollable. In addition, extreme steering maneuvers at high speed or high speed cornering beyond the limits of tire adhesion to the road surface may cause vehicle skidding, independent of vehicle braking. For this reason, the ABS system is termed Antilock instead of Anti-Skid.
NORMAL BRAKING SYSTEM FUNCTION
Under normal braking conditions, the ABS System functions the same as a standard brake system with a diagonally split master cylinder and conventional vacuum assist.
ABS SYSTEM OPERATION
If a wheel locking tendency is detected during a brake application, the brake system will enter the
ABS mode. During ABS braking, hydraulic pressure in the four wheel circuits is modulated to prevent any wheel from locking. Each wheel circuit is designed with a set of electric solenoids to allow modulation, although for vehicle stability, both rear wheel solenoids receive the same electrical signal.
During an ABS stop, the brakes hydraulic system is still a diagonally split. However, the brake system pressure is further split into three control channels.
During antilock operation of the vehicle brake system, the front wheels are controlled independently and are on two separate control channels. The rear wheels of the vehicle however, are controlled together through one control channel.
The system can build and release pressure at each wheel, depending on signals generated by the wheel speed sensors (WSS) at each wheel and received at the Controller Antilock Brake (CAB).
ABS operation is available at all vehicle speeds above 3 to 5 mph. Wheel lockup may be perceived at the very end of an ABS stop and is considered normal.
VEHICLE HANDLING PERFORMANCE DURING
ABS BRAKING
It is important to remember that an antilock brake system does not shorten a vehicle’s stopping distance under all driving conditions, but does provide improved control of the vehicle while stopping. Vehicle stopping distance is still dependent on vehicle speed, weight, tires, road surfaces and other factors.
Though ABS provides the driver with some steering control during hard braking, there are conditions however, where the system does not provide any benefit. In particular, hydroplaning is still possible when
NOISE AND BRAKE PEDAL FEEL
During ABS braking, some brake pedal movement may be felt. In addition, ABS braking will create ticking, popping and/or groaning noises heard by the driver. This is normal due to pressurized fluid being transferred between the master cylinder and the brakes. If ABS operation occurs during hard braking, some pulsation may be felt in the vehicle body due to fore and aft movement of the suspension as brake pressures are modulated.
At the end of an ABS stop, ABS will be turned off when the vehicle is slowed to a speed of 3–4 mph.
There may be a slight brake pedal drop anytime that the ABS is deactivated, such as at the end of the stop when the vehicle speed is less then 3 mph or during an ABS stop where ABS is no longer required. These conditions will exist when a vehicle is being stopped on a road surface with patches of ice, loose gravel or sand on it. Also stopping a vehicle on a bumpy road surface may activate the ABS because of the wheel hop caused by the bumps.
TIRE NOISE AND MARKS
Although the ABS system prevents complete wheel lock-up, some wheel slip is desired in order to achieve optimum braking performance. Wheel slip is defined as follows, 0 percent slip means the wheel is rolling freely and 100 percent slip means the wheel is fully locked. During brake pressure modulation, wheel slip is allowed to reach up to 25 to30%. This means that the wheel rolling velocity is 25 to 30% less than that of a free rolling wheel at a given vehicle speed. This slip may result in some tire chirping, depending on the road surface. This sound should not be interpreted as total wheel lock-up.
Complete wheel lock up normally leaves black tire marks on dry pavement. The ABS System will not leave dark black tire marks since the wheel never reaches a fully locked condition. Tire marks may however be noticeable as light patched marks.
ABS COMPONENTS
The following is a detailed description of the Allied
Signal ABX-4 ABS brake system components. For information on servicing the base brake system components, see the Base Brake section of this Service
Manual.
BRAKE RIGHT STEERING
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
ABS MASTER CYLINDER AND POWER BRAKE
VACUUM BOOSTER
The Bendix ABX-4 Brake System uses a modified master cylinder and power brake vacuum booster assembly (Fig. 1). The master cylinder primary and secondary outputs go directly to the hydraulic control unit (HCU).
BRAKES 5 - 79
The hydraulic control unit HCU is located on the right side of the vehicle, mounted to the front suspension (Fig. 2). The HCU is mounted to the front suspension crossmember using a mounting bracket attached to the crossmember, which the HCU is mounted to using 3 isolation bushings. The HCU contains the following components for controlling brakes during ABS braking: 4 Decay Valves, 4 Shuttle
Valves, 2 Fluid Sumps, a Pump/Motor and a relay box. Also attached to the hydraulic control unit are the rear brake proportioning valves and the vehicles
6 hydraulic brake tubes (Fig. 2).
Fig. 1 ABX-4 Master Cylinder And Brake
VacuumBooster
ABS BRAKES HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT (HCU)
WARNING: THE ONLY PARTS OF THE HYDRAULIC
CONTROL UNIT HCU THAT ARE SERVICEABLE
ARE THE RELAY BOX, THE PROPORTIONING
VALVES, AND THE HCU MOUNTING BRACKET. THE
REMAINING COMPONENTS OF THE HYDRAULIC
CONTROL UNIT HCU ARE NOT SERVICEABLE
ITEMS. NO ATTEMPT SHOULD EVER BE MADE TO
REMOVE OR SERVICE ANY OTHER PARTS OF THE
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT HCU.
Fig. 2 Hydraulic Control Unit Mounting Location
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT DECAY SOLENOIDS
There are 4 decay solenoids, one for each wheel. In the released position they provide a fluid path from the master cylinder to the wheel brakes of the vehicle. In the actuated (decay) position, they provide a fluid path from wheel brakes of the vehicle to the sumps. The Decay solenoids are spring loaded in the released (build) position during normal braking.
6–WAY
5 - 80 BRAKES
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT SHUTTLE VALVES
There are 4 Shuttle Valves, one for each wheel.
The Shuttle Valve is a hydraulically actuated valve which shuttles when the decay solenoid and pump are energized. This places an orifice (restriction) in the line between the pump and the decay solenoid.
This restriction provides a controlled build rate to each wheel brake during an ABS stop. The Shuttle
Valve will remain in the orificed position until the
ABS cycle is complete. When the ABS cycle has been completed the decay solenoids will return to their released position which will equalize the pressure across the Shuttle Valves. When the pressure equalizes, the spring loaded Shuttle Orifice valves will return to the unrestricted position.
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PUMP/MOTOR RELAY OPERATION
Pump/Motor power is supplied by the Pump/Motor
Relay. The pump motor relay is also part of the relay box (Fig. 3) mounted to the HCU. If pump/motor relay replacement is required, it is also only serviced by the replacement of the relay box assembly (Fig. 3).
Voltage for the 12 volt side of the relay coil is provided by the system relay. The ground path through the relay coil is completed by the CAB during ABS braking. The relay contacts are closed when the relay is energized. This provides 12 volts to the pump/motor as needed during ABS braking.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT FLUID SUMPS
There are two fluid sumps in the hydraulic control unit (HCU), one each for the primary and secondary hydraulic circuits. The fluid sumps temporarily store brake fluid that is decayed from the wheel brakes during an ABS cycle. This fluid is then delivered to the pump to provide build pressure. The typical pressure in the sumps is 50 psi, during ABS operation only.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT PUMP MOTOR
ASSEMBLY
The HCU contains 2 Pump Assemblies, one each for the primary and secondary hydraulic circuits.
Both pumps are driven by a common electric motor which is part of the HCU. The pumps pick up fluid from the sumps to supply build pressure to the brakes during an ABS stop. The motor only runs during an ABS stop and is controlled by the CAB via the
Pump/Motor Relay. The Pump/Motor Assembly is not a serviceable item. If it requires service the HCU must be replaced.
RELAY BOX
ABX-4 utilizes two relays contained in a relay box mounted to the HCU. The relay box contains a system relay and a pump/motor relay. A single 10-way connector provides the electrical interface. The relay box is serviceable as an assembly.
Fig. 3 System Relay And Pump/Motor RelayBox
SYSTEM RELAY OPERATION
The main purpose of the system relay is to put the
ABS system into a stand-by mode for ABS operation.
The system relay is energized by the CAB shortly after the ignition switch is turned on.
When energized by the CAB, the system relay turns off the ABS warning lamp and provides 12 volts to the CAB. This voltage can then be used by the CAB to energize the decay solenoids during ABS braking. When energized, the system relay also provides the pump/motor relay coil with 12 volts. The ground path to the pump/motor relay is completed by the CAB during ABS braking.
Conversely, when the system relay is de-energized, the ABS warning lamp is illuminated, voltage to the decay solenoids is cut off, and the pump/motor relay is prevented from energizing. Typically, the system relay is de-energized by the controller when a fault is detected that requires turning ABS off.
TONEWHEEL
WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
CABLE
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
PROPORTIONING VALVE
Two Proportioning Valves are used in the Allied
Signal ABX-4 ABS system, one for each rear wheel brake hydraulic circuit. The proportioning valves function the same as in a standard brake system.
The proportioning valves (Fig. 4) are located on the front of the HCU. The proportioning valve can be identified by the bar code label and stamp on the proportioning valve (Fig. 4). Be sure replacement proportioning valve has the same stamp as the proportioning valve being replaced.
BRAKES 5 - 81
Fig. 4 Proportioning Valve Identification
WHEEL SPEED SENSORS
One Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) is located at each wheel (Fig. 5) and (Fig. 6), and sends a small AC signal to the control module CAB. This signal is generated by magnetic induction created when a toothed sensor ring (tone wheel) (Fig. 5) and (Fig. 6) passes the stationary magnetic wheel speed sensor. The
CAB converts the AC signal generated at each wheel into a digital signal. If a wheel locking tendency is detected by the CAB, it will then modulate hydraulic pressure via the HCU to prevent the wheel(s) from locking.
Fig. 6 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor And ToneWheel
With Drum Brakes
The front Wheel Speed Sensor is attached to a boss in the steering knuckle (Fig. 5). The tone wheel is part of the outboard constant velocity joint (Fig. 5).
The rear Wheel Speed Sensor on rear drum brake applications is mounted to the rear brake support plate (Fig. 6) and the rear tone wheel is an integral part of the rear wheel hub and bearing assembly.
The four Wheel Speed Sensors are serviced individually. The front Tone Wheels are serviced as an assembly with the outboard constant velocity joint.
The rear Tone Wheels are serviced as an assembly with the rear hub and bearing assembly.
Correct ABS system operation is dependent on accurate wheel speed signals. The vehicle’s wheels and tires must all be the same size and type to generate accurate signals. Variations in wheel and tire size can produce inaccurate wheel speed signals.
Fig. 5 Front Wheel Speed Sensor And ToneWheel
CONTROLLER 60–WAY CON-
5 - 82 BRAKES
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
CONTROLLER ANTILOCK BRAKES (CAB)
The Antilock Brake Controller (CAB) is a microprocessor based device which monitors the ABS system during normal braking and controls it when in an
ABS stop. The CAB is mounted in the right front corner of the engine compartment using an integral mounting bracket to attach it to the inner fender
(Fig. 7). The CAB uses a 60 way electrical connector on the vehicle wiring harness. The power source for the CAB is through the ignition switch in the Run or
On position.
THE CONTROLLER ANTILOCK
BRAKE (CAB) IS NOT ON THE CCD BUS
JA messages will remain in the CAB memory even after the ignition has been turned off. The fault messages can be cleared by using the DRB scan tool, or they will be automatically cleared from the memory after a minimum of 3500 vehicle miles are accumulated.
CONTROLLER ANTILOCK BRAKE INPUTS
• Four wheel speed sensors.
• Stop lamp switch.
• Ignition switch.
• System relay voltage.
• Ground.
• Pump/Motor Relay Monitor
• Diagnostics Communications
Fig. 7 Location Of Controller Antilock Brake
The primary functions of the (CAB) are:
(1) Detect wheel locking tendencies.
(2) Control fluid modulation to the brakes while in
ABS mode.
(3) Monitor the system for proper operation.
(4) Provide communication to the DRB scan tool while in diagnostic mode.
The CAB continuously monitors the speed of each wheel through the signals generated at the Wheel
Speed Sensors to determine if any wheel is beginning to lock. When a wheel locking tendency is detected, the CAB commands the HCU to modulate brake fluid pressure in some or all of the hydraulic circuits. The
CAB continues to control pressure in individual hydraulic circuits until a locking tendency is no longer present.
The ABS system is constantly monitored by the
CAB for proper operation. If the CAB detects a fault, it will turn on the Amber ABS Warning Lamp and disable the ABS braking system. The normal Non
ABS braking system will remain operational.
The CAB contains a self-diagnostic program which will turn on the Amber ABS Warning Lamp when a
ABS system fault is detected. Faults are then stored in a diagnostic program memory. There are multiple fault messages which may be stored in the CAB and displayed through the DRB scan tool. These fault
CONTROLLER ANTILOCK BRAKE OUTPUTS
•
4 Decay Solenoids
•
ABS warning lamp.
•
System relay actuation.
• Diagnostic communication. (Single line ISOK)
• Pump motor relay actuation
• Brake Lamp (Low Fluid/Pressure).
ABS AMBER WARNING LAMP FUNCTION AND
LOCATION
The ABS system uses an Amber ABS Warning
Lamp, located in the instrument cluster. The purpose of the warning lamp is discussed in detail below.
The ABS warning lamp will turn on when the CAB detects a condition which results in a shutdown of
ABS function. The ABS Warning Lamp is normally on until the CAB completes its self tests and turns the lamp off (approximately 4-5 seconds after the ignition switch is turned on). When the ABS warning lamp is on, only the ABS function of the brake system if affected. The standard brake system and the ability to stop the car will not be affected when only the ABS warning lamp is on.
NOTE: When the CAB detects a non-functional
Amber ABS Warning and a ABS fault is also detected at the same time which results in shutting down the ABS Brakes, then the CAB will turn on the
Red Brake Warning Lamp.
ABS BRAKING MODE HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT
SOLENOID AND VALVE FUNCTION
Through the following operation descriptions the function of the various hydraulic control valves in the
ABS system will be described. The fluid control valves mentioned below, control the flow of pressurized brake fluid to the wheel brakes during the different modes of ABS braking.
For explanation purposes we will assume all speed sensors are sending the same wheel speed informa-
HOOD RELEASE DRIVER’S SIDE
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued) tion, requiring the same hydraulic fluid modulation at the same rate.
BRAKES 5 - 83
See the ABS System Operation section in this group of the service manual to familiarize yourself with the operating principles of the ABS system.
NORMAL BRAKING BUILD/DECAY VALVE
FUNCTION
BUILD/DECAY VALVES OPEN
The brake pedal is applied. The travel of the brake pedal closes primary and secondary circuits from the master cylinder fluid supply. Brake fluid from the primary and secondary circuits flows through the build/decay valves to the wheel brakes.
ABS BRAKING-DECAY MODE-DECAY
SOLENOID FUNCTION
DECAY SOLENOID ENERGIZED
This will allow brake hydraulic pressure to be dumped to the HCU sump. At the HCU sump, the brake hydraulic fluid is picked up by the pump and restored to high pressure for the next build cycle.
DIAGNOSTICS MANUAL INFORMATION
Detailed procedures for diagnosing specific ABS conditions are covered in the Bendix ABX-4 diagnostics manual. The following information is presented to give the technician a general background on the diagnostic capabilities of the ABX-4 ABS system.
Please refer to the above mentioned manual for any further electronic diagnostics and service procedures that are required on the Bendix ABX-4 Brake System.
DIAGNOSTIC TESTER (DRB)
The Allied Signal ABX-4 Antilock Brake System diagnostics are performed using the DRB scan tool.
Refer to the Allied Signal ABX-4 diagnostic manual for the proper testing procedures and the DRB operators manual for its proper operational information when diagnosing this brake system.
ABS BRAKING-BUILD MODE-DECAY
SOLENOID FUNCTION
DECAY SOLENOID DE-ENERGIZED
Decayed brake fluid, is picked up by the pump in the HCU and restored to high pressure. This high pressure brake fluid causes the shuttle valve in the
HCU to actuate, routing high pressure brake fluid through the build orifice. Routing the high pressure brake fluid through the build orifice allows for a controlled build pressure in the brakes hydraulic system.
High pressure brake fluid from the build orifice then passes through the de-energized decay solenoid and to the wheel brakes to restore braking pressure.
ABS (DRB) DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
On this vehicle, the ABX-4 diagnostic connector is located under the lower instrument panel directly next to the left kick panel (Fig. 8). The ABX-4 system uses the ISO 9141-K connector which is shared by other vehicle diagnostic systems such as the powertrain control module and air bag.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
ABS GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS INFORMATION
This section contains information necessary to diagnose and test the Bendix ABX-4 Brake System.
Specifically, this section should be used to help diagnose conditions which result in any of the following:
•
ABS Warning Lamp turned on.
•
Brakes Lock on Hard Application
Diagnosis of base brake conditions which are obviously mechanical in nature should be directed to
Group 5 Brakes in this service manual. This includes brake noise, brake pulsation, lack of power assist, parking brake, Red BRAKE Warning Lamp lighting, or vehicle vibration during normal braking.
Many conditions that generate customer complaints may be normal operating conditions, but are judged to be a problem due to not being familiar with the ABS system. These conditions can be recognized without performing extensive diagnostic work, given adequate understanding of the operating principles and performance characteristics of the ABS system.
Fig. 8 ABS System Diagnostic Connector Location
SELF DIAGNOSTICS INFORMATION
The ABX-4 system is equipped with a self diagnostic capability which may be used to assist in isolation of ABS faults. The features of the self diagnostics system are described below.
5 - 84 BRAKES
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
START-UP CYCLE
The self diagnostic ABS start up cycle begins when the ignition switch is turned to the on position. Electrical checks are completed on ABS components, such as the Controller, decay solenoid continuity, and the system relay operation. During this check the Amber
ABS Warning Light is turned on for approximately 5 seconds.
DRIVE-OFF CYCLE
Further Functional testing is accomplished once the vehicle is set in motion and reaches a speed of about 7 mph. This cycle is performed only once after each ignition on/off cycle.
•
The solenoid valves and the pump/motor are activated briefly to verify function. If the brake pedal is applied at this time, the test is bypassed.
•
The wheel speed sensor output is verified to be within the correct operating range.
ONGOING TESTS
Other tests are performed on a continuous basis.
These include checks for decay solenoid continuity, wheel speed sensor continuity and wheel speed sensor output.
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE INFORMATION
Fault codes are kept in the controller’s memory until either erased by the technician using the DRB or erased automatically after the vehicle has been driven 3500 miles. Fault codes are retained by the controller even if the ignition is turned off or the battery is disconnected. The only fault that will not be erased automatically is the (CAB) fault. A (CAB) fault can only be erased by the technician using the
DRB diagnostic tester. More than one fault can be stored at a time. The number of miles the vehicle has been driven since the most recent fault was stored is also displayed. Most functions of the (CAB) and ABS system can be accessed by the technician for testing and diagnostic purposes by using the DRB.
LATCHING VERSUS NON-LATCHING ABS
FAULTS
Some faults detected by the CAB are latching; the fault is latched and ABS braking is disabled until the ignition switch is reset. Thus ABS braking is non operational even if the original fault has disappeared. Other faults are non-latching; any warning lights that are turned on, are only turned on as long as the fault condition exists. As soon as the condition goes away, the ABS Warning Light is turned off, although a fault code will be set in most cases.
JA
INTERMITTENT DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
As with virtually any electronic system, intermittent faults in the ABS system may be difficult to accurately diagnose.
Most intermittent faults are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring. When an intermittent fault is encountered, check suspect circuits for:
(1) Poor mating of connector halves or terminals not fully seated in the connector body.
(2) Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in a suspect circuit should be carefully reformed to increase contact tension.
(3) Poor terminal to wire connection. This requires removing the terminal from the connector body to inspect.
(4) Pin presence in the connector assembly
(5) Proper ground connections. Check all ground connections for signs of corrosion, tight fasteners, or other potential defects. Refer to wiring diagram manual for ground locations.
(6) If a visual check does not find the cause of the problem, operate the car in an attempt to duplicate the condition and record the Fault code.
(7) Most failures of the ABS system will disable
ABS function for the entire ignition cycle even if the fault clears before key-off. There are some failure conditions, however, which will allow ABS operation to resume during the ignition cycle in which a failure occurred if the failure conditions are no longer present. The following conditions may result in intermittent illumination of the ABS Warning Lamp. All other failures will cause the lamp to remain on until the ignition switch is turned off. Circuits involving these inputs to the (CAB) should be investigated if a complaint of intermittent warning system operation is encountered.
(8) Low system voltage. If Low System Voltage is detected by the CAB, the CAB will turn on the ABS
Warning Lamp until normal system voltage is achieved. Once normal voltage is seen at the CAB, normal operation resumes.
(9) Additionally, any condition which results in interruption of electrical current to the CAB or modulator assembly may cause the ABS Warning Lamp to turn on intermittently.
TONEWHEEL INSPECTION
Carefully inspect tonewheel at the suspected faulty wheel speed sensor for missing, chipped or broken teeth, this can cause erratic speed sensor signals.
Tonewheels should show no evidence of contact with the wheel speed sensors. If contact was made, determine cause and correct before replacing the wheel speed sensor.
Excessive runout of the tonewheel can cause erratic wheel speed sensor signals. Refer to Tone-
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued) wheel Runout in the Specification Section in this section of the service manual for the tonewheel runout specification. Replace drive shaft assembly or rear hub/bearing assembly if tonewheel runout exceeds the specification.
Inspect tonewheels for looseness on their mounting surfaces. Tonewheels are pressed onto their mounting surfaces and should not rotate independently from the mounting surface.
Check the wheel speed sensor head alignment to the tone wheel. Also check the gap between the speed sensor head and the tone wheel to ensure it is at specification. Refer to Wheel Speed Sensor Clearance in the Specification Section in this section of the service manual.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM PROPORTIONING VALVE
CAUTION: Proportioning valves (Fig. 9) should never be disassembled.
Fig. 9 Proportioning Valve Identification
If premature rear wheel skid occurs on hard brake application, it could be an indication that a malfunction has occurred with one of the proportioning valves.
One proportioning valve controls the right rear brake, and the other proportioning valve controls the left rear brake. Therefore, a road test to determine which rear brake slides first is essential.
If a malfunctioning proportioning valve is suspected on a vehicle equipped with ABS brakes. Refer to Proportioning Valve Test With ABS Brakes in the
Proportioning Valves Section in this group of the service manual.
BRAKE FLUID CONTAMINATION
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or deteriorated rubber parts.
Swollen rubber parts indicate the presence of petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If fluid separates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid contamination of the brake fluid.
BRAKES 5 - 85
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thoroughly flush system. Replace master cylinder, proportioning valve, caliper seals, wheel cylinder seals,
Antilock Brakes hydraulic unit and all hydraulic fluid hoses.
VEHICLE TEST DRIVE INFORMATION AND
PROCEDURE
Most ABS complaints will require a test drive as a part of the diagnostic procedure. The purpose of the test drive is to duplicate the condition.
NOTE: Remember conditions that result in the turning on of the Red BRAKE Warning Lamp may indicate reduced braking ability. The following procedure should be used to test drive an ABS complaint vehicle.
Before test driving a brake complaint vehicle, note whether the Red Brake Warning Lamp or Amber
ABS Warning Lamp is turned on. If it is the Red
Brake Warning Lamp, refer to the hydraulic system section in the brake group of this manual. If the ABS
Warning lamp was/is on, test drive the vehicle as described below, to verify the complaint. While the
ABS Warning Lamp is on, the ABS system is not functional. The standard brake system and the ability to stop the car is not be affected if only the ABS
Warning Lamp is on.
(1) Turn the key to the off position and then back to the on position. Note whether the ABS Warning
Lamp continues to stay on. If it does, refer to the
ABX-4 Diagnostic Manual for the required test procedures.
(2) If the ABS Warning Lamp goes out, shift into gear and drive the car to a speed of 5 mph to complete the ABS start up cycle. If at this time the ABS
Warning Lamp goes on refer to the ABX-4 Diagnostic
Manual.
(3) If the ABS Warning Lamp remains OUT, drive the vehicle a short distance. During this test drive be sure that the vehicle achieves at least 25 mph. Brake to at least one complete stop and again accelerate to
25 mph.
(4) If a functional problem with the ABS system is determined while test driving a vehicle, refer to the
ABX-4 Diagnostics Manual for required test procedures and proper use of the DRB tester.
ABS SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
The ABS uses an electronic control module, the
CAB. This module is designed to withstand normal current draws associated with vehicle operation.
Care must be taken to avoid overloading the CAB circuits. In testing for open or short circuits, do not ground or apply voltage to any of the circuits unless instructed to do so for a diagnostic
HOOD RELEASE DRIVER’S SIDE
5 - 86 BRAKES
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
procedure. These circuits should only be tested using a high impedance multi-meter or the DRB tester as described in this section. Power should never be removed or applied to any control module with the ignition in the ON position. Before removing or connecting battery cables, fuses, or connectors, always turn the ignition to the OFF position.
CAUTION: Use only factory wiring harnesses. Do not cut or splice wiring to the brake circuits. The addition of after-market electrical equipment (car phone, radar detector, citizen band radio, trailer lighting, trailer brakes, ect.) on a vehicle equipped with antilock brakes may affect the function of the antilock brake system.
JA procedure to be used. This brake system can be either pressure bled or manually bled.
The ABS portion of brake system MUST be bled separately. This bleeding procedure requires the use of the DRB scan tool and the bleeding sequence procedure outlined below.
ABS BLEEDING PROCEDURE
When bleeding the ABS system, the following bleeding sequence MUST be followed to insure complete and adequate bleeding. The ABS system can be bled using a Manual bleeding procedure or standard
Pressure Bleeding Equipment.
If the brake system is to be bled using pressure bleeding equipment, refer to Bleeding Brake System in the Service Adjustments section at the beginning of this group for proper equipment usage and procedures.
(1) Assemble and install all brake system components on vehicle making sure all hydraulic fluid lines are installed and properly torqued.
(2) Connect the DRB scan tool to the diagnostics connector. The diagnostics connector is located under the lower instrument panel next to the left kick panel (Fig. 10).
SERVICE PROCEDURES
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL INSPECTION
CAUTION: Use only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a tightly sealed container. Brake fluid must conform to DOT 3 specifications. Do not use petroleum-based fluid because seal damage in the brake system will result.
For the specific procedure covering the inspection of the brake fluid level and adding brake fluid to the reservoir, refer to the Service Adjustments Section in this group of the service manual.
ABS HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING PROCEDURE
INFORMATION
The base brake system must be bled anytime air is permitted to enter the hydraulic system, due to disconnection of brake lines, hoses or components. The
ABS system, particularly the HCU, should only be bled when the HCU is replaced or removed from the vehicle, or if there is reason to believe the HCU has ingested air. Under most circumstances that would require brake bleeding, only the base brake system needs to be bled.
It is important to note that excessive air in the brake system will cause a soft or spongy feeling brake pedal.
During bleeding operations, be sure that the brake fluid level remains close to the FULL level in the reservoir. Check the fluid level periodically during the bleeding procedure and add DOT 3 brake fluid as required.
The Bendix ABX-4 Brake System must be bled as two independent braking systems. The non ABS portion of the brake system is to be bled the same as any non ABS system. Refer to the Service Adjustments section in this manual for the proper bleeding
Fig. 10 ABS System Diagnostic Connector Location
(3) Using the DRB scan tool, check to make sure the CAB does not have any fault codes stored. If it does, remove them using the DRB scan tool.
WARNING: WHEN BLEEDING THE BRAKE SYS-
TEM WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. A CLEAR BLEED
TUBE MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE BLEEDER
SCREWS AND SUBMERGED IN A CLEAR CON-
TAINER FILLED PART WAY WITH CLEAN BRAKE
FLUID. DIRECT THE FLOW OF BRAKE FLUID AWAY
FROM THE PAINTED SURFACES OF THE VEHICLE.
BRAKE FLUID AT HIGH PRESSURE MAY COME
OUT OF THE BLEEDER SCREWS WHEN OPENED.
JA
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
(4) Bleed the base brake system using the standard pressure or manual bleeding procedure as outlined in the Service Adjustments section of this service manual.
(5) Using the DRB scan tool, go to the “Bleed ABS” routine. Apply the brake pedal firmly and initiate the
“Bleed ABS” cycle one time. Release the brake pedal.
(6) Bleed the base brake system again, as in step
Step 4 above.
(7) Repeat steps Step 5 and Step 6 above until brake fluid flows clear and free of bubbles. Check brake fluid level in reservoir periodically to prevent reservoir from running low on brake fluid.
(8) Test drive the vehicle to be sure brake are operating correctly and that pedal is solid.
BRAKES 5 - 87
ABS HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT
REMOVE
(1) Remove the remote ground cable from the ground stud located on the left strut tower (Fig. 11).
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
GENERAL SERVICE CAUTIONS
CAUTION: Review this entire section prior to performing any mechanical work on a vehicle equipped with the Allied Signal ABX- 4 Antilock Brake System. This section contains information on precautions pertaining to potential component damage, vehicle damage and personal injury which could result when servicing an ABS equipped vehicle.
Fig. 11 Remote Ground Cable Attachment ToStrut
Tower
(2) Correctly isolate remote ground cable when servicing vehicle by installing the ground cable insulator on the strut tower ground stud as shown (Fig. 12).
This will prevent accidental grounding of the remote ground cable.
CAUTION: Certain components of the ABS System are not intended to be serviced individually.
Attempting to remove or disconnect certain system components may result in improper system operation.
Only those components with approved removal and installation procedures in this manual should be serviced.
CAUTION: Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled on any painted surfaces, wash off with water immediately.
The following are general cautions which should be observed when servicing the ABS system and/or other vehicle systems. Failure to observe these precautions may result in ABS System component damage.
If welding work is to be performed on the vehicle, using an electric arc welder, the CAB connector should be disconnected during the welding operation.
The CAB 60 way connector or the HCU 10 and 6 way connectors should never be connected or disconnected with the ignition switch in the ON position.
Fig. 12 Correctly Isolated Remote GroundCable
CLUTCH WITH MANUAL
BRAKE PEDAL HOLDING
TOOL
5 - 88 BRAKES
NUTS 32 N·M (24 GASKET FWD 2.0L ENGINE SEAL RING
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(3) Using a brake pedal positioning tool such as shown in (Fig. 13) depress brake pedal past its first 1 inch of travel and hold in this position. This will isolate the master cylinder reservoir from the brake hydraulic system, not allowing the brake fluid to drain out of the reservoir.
• Remove attaching bolts from exhaust pipe at exhaust manifold on engine (Fig. 14).
Fig. 13 Brake Pedal Holding Tool Installed
(4) Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual.
(5) Using Mopar, Brake Parts Cleaner or an equivalent, thoroughly clean all surfaces of the HCU. Also, thoroughly clean all brake line tube nut to HCU and proportioning valve connections.
(6) Remove the entire exhaust system from the vehicle as a complete assembly using following steps.
Fig. 14 Exhaust Pipe Mounting To ExhaustManifold
• Remove all exhaust system support/isolators from the vehicle’s exhaust system (Fig. 15). Remove support/isolators from brackets on exhaust system components and leave attached to body of vehicle.
FWD
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
GEAR
EXHAUST
PIPE
HCU SUP-
BRAKES 5 - 89
Fig. 15 Exhaust System Support/Isolator Locations
• Lower exhaust system as a complete assembly away from the underbody of the vehicle.
(7) Remove right side engine compartment splash shield (Fig. 16) from the vehicle.
(8) Remove the HCU heat shield (Fig. 17) from the
HCU mounting bracket.
Fig. 16 Right Side Splash Shield
Fig. 17 HCU Heat Shield
HCU TUBE CLIP HCU VEHICLE FRAME BRACKET
5 - 90 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(9) Disconnect the 6 way connector from the HCU wiring harness and the 10 way connector from the relay box located on the HCU (Fig. 18).
(11) Remove the 2 rear brake tubes from the proportioning valves and the right front brake tube from the outlet port of the HCU (Fig. 20).
Fig. 18 Electrical Connections At HCU AndRelay
Box
(10) Remove the brake tube routing clip (Fig. 19) from the HCU mounting bracket. Then remove the 2 brake tubes coming from master cylinder and the brake tube going to the left front wheel (Fig. 19) from the HCU ports.
Fig. 20 Rear Brake Tubes And Right FrontBrake
Tube At HCU
(12) Remove bolt (Fig. 21) attaching the front of the HCU to its mounting bracket.
Fig. 19 Brake Tubes At HCU
Fig. 21 Front Attachment Of HCU To
MountingBracket
HCU MOUNTING
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(13) Remove the 2 bolts (Fig. 22) attaching the rear of the HCU to its mounting bracket. If vehicle being service is equipped with a 2.5 ltr. engine, remove the tube as indicated in (Fig. 22) and
(Fig. 23). Removing this tube will make it easier to remove the HCU assembly from the vehicle.
Fig. 22 Rear Attachment Of HCU To
MountingBracket
(14) Remove HCU from its mounting bracket.
Then remove HCU from vehicle out through the exhaust tunnel in the floor pan of the vehicle (Fig.
23).
BRAKES 5 - 91
mounting bracket. Do not tighten bolt at this time.
(4) Then tighten the 3 HCU mounting bolts to a torque of 28 N·m (248 in. lbs.).
(5) Install the 2 rear brake tubes on the proportioning valves and the right front brake tube in the outlet port of the HCU (Fig. 20). Tighten the 3 brake tube nuts to a torque of 20 N·m (180 in. lbs.).
(6) Install the 2 brake tubes coming from master cylinder and the brake tube to the left front wheel
(Fig. 19) in the HCU ports. Tighten the 3 brake tube nuts to a torque of 20 N·m (180 in. lbs.). Install the brake tube routing clip (Fig. 19) on the HCU mounting bracket and securely tighten attaching bolt.
(7) Install the 6 way connector on the HCU wiring harness and the 10 way connector on the relay box of the HCU (Fig. 18).
(8) Install the HCU heat shield (Fig. 17) on the
HCU mounting bracket. Install and securely tighten attaching bolt.
(9) Install exhaust system in vehicle using the reverse steps of its removal.
(10) Install right side engine compartment splash shield (Fig. 16) back on the vehicle.
(11) Install the remote ground cable onto the ground stud located on left shock tower (Fig. 11).
Install the remote ground cable attaching nut and tighten to a torque of 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.).
(12) Bleed the base brakes and the ABS brakes hydraulic system. Refer to the Bleeding ABS System in this section of the manual for the proper bleeding procedure.
(13) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of the base and ABS systems.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM PROPORTIONING VALVES
CAUTION: Proportioning valves (Fig. 24) should never be disassembled.
Fig. 23 Removal Of HCU Assembly From Vehicle
INSTALL
(1) Install the HCU back in the vehicle and on its mounting bracket using the reverse order of its removal.
(2) Install mounting isolators, washers and attaching bolts, (Fig. 22) mounting the rear of the HCU to the mounting bracket. Do not tighten bolts at this time.
(3) Install mounting isolator, washer and attaching bolt, (Fig. 21) mounting the front of the HCU to the
Fig. 24 Proportioning Valve Identification
The HCU does not require removal from the vehicle for the replacement of the proportioning valves.
PORTIONING VALVE
RIGHT DRIVE
PRO-
SHAFT
5 - 92 BRAKES
CONHCU
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
REMOVE
(1) Disconnect brake tube fitting from proportioning valve requiring removal from HCU (Fig. 25).
(2) Remove proportioning valve requiring replacement (Fig. 25) from the HCU.
REMOVE
(1) Disconnect negative (ground) cable from the battery and isolate the cable.
(2) Remove the HCU from the vehicle.
See
Hydraulic Control Unit in the Removal And Installation Section in this group of the service manual, for the required removal procedure for the HCU.
(3) Remove the 2 screws (Fig. 26) attaching the relay box assembly to the HCU. Remove only the 2 screws mounting the relay box to the HCU do not remove the pump motor mounting screws
(Fig. 26).
Fig. 25 Rear Wheel Proportioning Valve LocationOn
HCU
INSTALL
(1) Wet O-ring seal on new proportioning valve using clean fresh brake fluid.
(2) Install proportioning valve in HCU and hand tighten until proportioning is fully installed and
O-ring seal is seated into HCU. Then torque proportioning valve to 40 N·m (30 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install brake tube on proportioning valve.
Tighten tube nut to 17 N·m (145 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Bleed the affected brake line. See Bleeding
Brake System in the Service Procedures section of the manual for proper bleeding procedure.
MASTER CYLINDER AND POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
If the Master Cylinder or the Power Booster need to be serviced or replaced, refer to Master Cylinder or Power Brake Booster in the Removal And Installation Section in the Base Brake Section of this service manual.
HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT RELAY BOX
The system relay and pump/motor relay are both serviced together as an assembly with the relay box.
The relay box is mounted directly to the HCU.
To remove the relay box from the HCU, the HCU requires removal from the vehicle. This is to allow visual access of the relay box to HCU electrical connection. Visual access to this connection is necessary to be sure connection is correctly made when installing the relay box on the HCU.
Fig. 26 Relay Box To HCU Mounting Screws
(4) Grasp relay box with both hands. Without twisting or rocking, pull relay box away from pump motor housing until connector on relay box unplugs from the pump motor terminal (Fig. 27). This is a tight connection, relay box will require a good amount of force to unplug it from the pump motor.
Fig. 27 Relay Box To HCU Electrical Connection
(5) Remove relay box from HCU.
ELECTRICAL PUMP MOTOR HCU WINDSHIELD CONBOTTLE CONTROLLER RETAININGBOLT 60–WAY ELEC-
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
INSTALL
(1) Be sure electrical connector seal (Fig. 28) is installed in pump motor housing before installing relay box. If electrical connector seal is cracked, brittle or in any way damaged it must be replaced before installing relay box.
BRAKES 5 - 93
CONTROLLER ANTILOCK BRAKES (CAB)
The CAB is located in the right front corner of the engine compartment (Fig. 29). It is mounted to the vehicle using an integral mounting bracket, which is attached by 2 bolts, to the inner fender and the front crossmember.
Fig. 28 Pump Motor To Relay Box
ElectricalConnection Seal
(2) Position relay box on HCU and carefully align the terminals on the relay box with the terminals on the pump motor.
(3) Grasp relay box with both hands. Then without twisting or rocking, push relay box onto the pump motor electrical connector as far as possible by hand.
(4) Install and securely tighten the 2 screws (Fig.
26) attaching the relay box assembly to the HCU.
(5) Install the HCU back in the vehicle. See
Hydraulic Control Unit in the Removal And Installation Section in this group of the service manual, for the required installation procedure for the HCU.
(6) Connect the negative (-) ground cable back on the negative post of the battery.
(7) Bleed the base brakes and the ABS brakes hydraulic system. Refer to the Bleeding ABS System in this section of the manual for the proper bleeding procedure.
(8) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of the base and ABS systems.
Fig. 29 Controller Antilock Brake (CAB) Location
REMOVE
(1) Turn vehicle ignition off.
(2) Disconnect the wiring harness 60 way connector (Fig. 30) from the Controller Antilock Brake Module (CAB).
VERIFY THAT THE VEHICLE
IGNITION IS OFF BEFORE REMOVING THE 60
WAY CONNECTOR.
Fig. 30 CAB 60-Way Wiring Harness Connector
5 - 94 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(3) Remove the 2 bolts (Fig. 31) attaching the CAB mounting bracket to inner fender and front upper crossmember.
(3) Remove the speed sensor cable routing bracket
(Fig. 32) from the steering knuckle. Remove the wiring harness sealing grommet retainer and speed sensor routing bracket from the inner fender.
Fig. 31 CAB Bracket To Engine
CompartmentMounting
(4) Remove the CAB from the vehicle.
INSTALL
(1) Install the CAB and the mounting bracket assembled, on the right inner fender of the vehicle.
(Fig. 31).
(2) Install the 2 bolts mounting the CAB bracket to the vehicle. Tighten both mounting bolts to a torque of 9 N·m (75 in. lbs.).
(3) Install 60-way wiring harness connector (Fig.
30) into the CAB 60-way connector by hand until seated as far as possible. Then use CAB connector retaining bolt (Fig. 30) to fully seat wiring harness connector into the CAB.
(4) Tighten the 60-way connector retaining bolt
(Fig. 30) to a torque of 4 N·m (35 in. lbs.).
FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
REMOVE
(1) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle.
Fig. 32 Speed Sensor Cable Routing Brackets
(4) Remove speed sensor sealing grommet from the inner fender (Fig. 33). Then unplug the speed sensor cable from the vehicle wiring harness (Fig. 33).
Fig. 33 Wheel Speed Sensor Connection ToVehicle
Wiring Harness
TONE WHEEL
HEAD
DRIVESHAFT
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(5) Remove bolt (Fig. 34) attaching the speed sensor head to the steering knuckle. Then remove speed sensor head from steering knuckle
INSTALL
BRAKES 5 - 95
CAUTION: Proper installation of wheel speed sensor cables is critical to continued system operation.
Be sure that cables are installed in retainers. Failure to install cables in retainers as shown in this section may result in contact with moving parts and/or over extension of cables, resulting in an open circuit.
(1) Connect the wheel speed sensor cable connector to the vehicle wiring harness (Fig. 33).
(2) Install the speed sensor cable assembly grommet into the front inner fender (Fig. 32). Install speed sensor cable grommet retainer/routing bracket on the inner fender of the vehicle and install and securely tighten attaching bolt (Fig. 32).
CAUTION: When installing the wheel speed sensor cable routing bracket on the steering knuckle, (Fig.
32) the speed sensor cable must be looped toward the shock absorber as shown in (Fig. 36). If speed sensor cable is not routed in this direction it will rub against the tire or wheel, damaging the speed sensor cable.
Fig. 34 Speed Sensor Head Attachment To
SteeringKnuckle
CAUTION: If speed sensor head locating pin has seized to the steering knuckle, do not attempt to remove speed sensor head by grasping with pliers and turning. This will damage the speed sensor head. Use only the following procedure.
(6) If speed sensor head can not be removed from steering knuckle by hand, the locating pin on the speed sensor head has seized to the steering knuckle do to corrosion. Remove speed sensor head from steering knuckle using the following procedure.
Remove disc brake caliper from steering knuckle, and remove brake rotor from hub/bearing assembly. Then insert a pin punch through hole in front steering knuckle (Fig. 35) and tap speed sensor head locating pin out of steering knuckle.
Fig. 36 Correct Front Wheel Speed Sensor Cable
Routing
(3) Install the speed sensor cable routing bracket on the steering knuckle. Install and tighten routing bracket mounting bolt to a torque of 12 N·m (105 in.
lbs.)
Fig. 35 Speed Sensor Head Removal From
SteeringKnuckle
DRIVESHAFT NESS STEERING SPEED SENREAR SPEED
5 - 96 BRAKES
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(4) Install speed sensor head on steering knuckle
(Fig. 37). When installing speed sensor head on steering knuckle, apply a small amount of grease on speed sensor locating pin (Fig. 37). Use Mopar, Multi-Purpose Grease or an equivalent on speed sensor head locating pin. Install the speed sensor head attaching screw and tighten to a torque of 6 N·m (55 in. lbs.).
(2) Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. See Hoisting in the Lubrication and Maintenance section of this manual, for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
(3) Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle.
(4) Remove speed sensor cable sealing grommet retainer (Fig. 39) from the rear frame rail of the vehicle. Then remove speed sensor cable sealing grommet and cable from hole in body of vehicle.
Fig. 37 Installing Speed Sensor Head In
SteeringKnuckle
(5) Install the wheel and tire assembly on vehicle.
(6) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of the base and ABS systems.
REAR WHEEL SPEED SENSORS
REMOVE
(1) Unplug the speed sensor cable connector from the vehicle wiring harness (Fig. 38). Access for speed sensor cable to vehicle wiring harness connection is in the trunk of the vehicle.
Fig. 39 Rear Speed Senor Cable AttachmentTo Body
(5) Remove speed sensor routing clips from the rear upper control arm and brake flex hose routing bracket (Fig. 40).
Fig. 38 Rear Speed Sensor Cable ConnectionTo
Vehicle Wiring Harness
Fig. 40 Speed Sensor Cable Attachment ToRear
Suspension
SPEED
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(6) Remove the rear speed sensor head from the rear brake support plate (Fig. 41).
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKES 5 - 97
SPEED SENSOR TONE WHEEL RUNOUT
The total indicator runout allowed for both the front and rear tone wheel measured using a dial indicator is 0.15 mm (.006 in.).
WHEEL SPEED SENSOR TO TONE WHEEL
CLEARANCE
FRONT WHEEL
Minimum Clearance .35mm (.014 in.)
Maxamum Clearance 1.2 mm (.047 in.)
REAR WHEEL
Minimum Clearance .40mm (.016 in.)
Maxamum Clearance 1.2 mm (.047 in.)
BRAKE FASTENER TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Fig. 41 Rear Speed Sensor Head AttachmentTo
Brake Support Plate
INSTALL
CAUTION: Proper installation of wheel speed sensor cables is critical to continued system operation.
Be sure that cables are installed in retainers. Failure to install cables in retainers as shown in this section may result in contact with moving parts and/or over extension of cables, resulting in an open circuit.
(1) Install speed sensor head into brake support plate (Fig. 41).
(2) Install wheel speed sensor attaching bolt (Fig.
41). Tighten the speed sensor head attaching bolt to
8 N·m (75 in. lbs.)
(3) Install speed sensor cable routing clips (Fig.
40) on the brake flex hose bracket and the bracket on the upper control arm. Install and securely tighten the routing clip attaching bolts.
(4) Install connector end of speed sensor cable through hole in inner fender and into trunk of vehicle.
(5) Install speed control sealing grommet into hole in inner fender. Install the sealing grommet retainer and attaching bolt (Fig. 39) on rear frame rail.
Securely tighten retainer attaching bolt.
(6) Install the tire and wheel assembly on vehicle.
(7) Lower vehicle.
(8) Plug speed sensor cable connector into vehicle wiring harness (Fig. 38). Install foam sleeve back over the speed sensor cable to vehicle wiring harness connection to prevent connector from rattling against body of vehicle.
(9) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of the base and ABS systems.
DESCRIPTION
BRAKE TUBES:
TORQUE
Tube Nuts To Fittings And Components . . . . 17 N·m
(145 in. lbs.)
BRAKE HOSE:
To Caliper Banjo Bolt . . . . . . . . . 48 N·m (35 ft. lbs.)
Intermediate Bracket . . . . . . . . . 23 N·m (17 ft. lbs.)
MASTER CYLINDER:
To Vacuum Booster
Mounting Nut . . . . . . . . . . . 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
BRAKE BOOSTER:
To Dash Panel
Mounting Nuts . . . . . . . . . . . 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
REAR WHEEL CYLINDER:
To Support Plate
Mounting Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . 11 N·m (97 in. lbs.)
Bleeder Screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 N·m (75 in. lbs.)
BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE:
To Axle Mounting Bolts . . . . . . . 63 N·m (46 ft. lbs.)
DISC BRAKE CALIPER:
Guide Pin Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 N·m (16 ft. lbs.)
Bleeder Screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 N·m (15 ft. lbs.)
ABS HYDRAULIC CONTROL UNIT:
To Mounting Bracket Bolts . . . 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
Bracket To Crossmember
Mounting Bolts . . . . . . . . . . 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
PARKING BRAKE:
Lever Mounting Nuts . . . . . . . . 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
REAR HUB AND BEARING:
To Knuckle Retaining Nut . . . 250 N·m (185 ft. lbs.)
WHEEL:
Stud Lug Nut . . . . . . . 109–150 N·m (80–110 ft. lbs.)
JA
BRAKE BUSHINGS
CLUTCH PEDAL
PIVOT PIN
CABLE END UPSTOP/SPACERPEDAL PEDAL
CLUTCH 6 - 1
CLUTCH
GENERAL INFORMATION
CLUTCH COMPONENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
CLUTCH DISC AND COVER APPLICATION . . . . 1
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH . . . . . . . . . 2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
. . . . . . 7
CLUTCH CHATTER COMPLAINTS . . . . . . . . . . . 7
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT . . . . . . . . 7
CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH . . . . . . . . . 3
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
GENERAL INFORMATION
CLUTCH COMPONENTS
The modular clutch assembly used in this vehicle consists of a single, dry-type clutch disc and a diaphragm style clutch cover. The clutch unit is serviced as an assembly. No disassembly is possible.
The clutch disc has cushion springs riveted to the disc hub assembly. The clutch disc facings are riveted to the cushion springs. The facings are made from a non-asbestos material.
The clutch cover pressure plate assembly is a diaphragm type unit with a one-piece diaphragm spring with multiple release fingers. The pressure plate release fingers are preset during manufacture and are not adjustable.
A sleeve-type release bearing is used to engage and disengage the clutch cover pressure plate. The bearing is prelubed during manufacture and is a sealed unit.
The release bearing is operated by a pivoting release fork in the clutch housing. The fork pivots on a ball stud within the housing. The release fork is actuated by a self-adjusting clutch cable.
The clutch cable has a unique self-adjuster mechanism built into the cable which compensates for clutch disc wear. The cable requires no maintenance or lubrication. There are no serviceable components on the cable assembly.
CONTENTS page page
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH . . . . . . . . . 8
. . . . . . . . . . . . 9
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
ADJUSTMENTS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH . . . . . . . . 11
SPECIFICATIONS
NV T350 (A-578) CLUTCH TIGHTENING
REFERENCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
The clutch pedal is connected to the cable through a plastic spacer. The upper end of the clutch pedal pivots in the pedal bracket on two nylon bushings and a shaft (Fig. 1). These bushings do not require periodic lubrication.
Fig. 1 Clutch Pedal Components
CLUTCH DISC AND COVER APPLICATION
The 2.0 single overhead cam engine uses a 228 mm
(9.0 in.) clutch disc. The manual transaxle is available only with the 2.0 liter engine.
CLUTCH REPLACEMENT
The transaxle must be removed to service the modular clutch disc assembly and lever.
6 - 2 CLUTCH
CABLE UPSTOP/SPACER PEDAL
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
CLUTCH CABLE
The manual transaxle clutch release system has a unique self-adjusting mechanism to compensate for clutch disc wear (Fig. 2). This adjuster mechanism is located within the clutch cable assembly. The preload spring maintains tension on the cable. This tension keeps the clutch release bearing continuously loaded against the fingers of the clutch cover assembly.
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
The clutch pedal position switch functions as a safety interlock device. It prevents possible engine cranking with the clutch engaged.
The clutch pedal position switch is wired in series between the starter relay coil and the ignition switch.
The clutch pedal position switch is mounted to a bracket located behind the clutch pedal. The switch is held in place by four plastic wing tabs.
The clutch pedal position switch IS NOT adjustable. The pedal blade contacts the switch in the down position (Fig. 3).
Fig. 2 Clutch Cable Routing
Fig. 3 Clutch Pedal Position Switch andComponents
JA
CLUTCH 6 - 3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH–ELECTRICAL TEST
Disconnect clutch pedal position switch harness from instrument panel wiring harness. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between the two terminals in the connector on the switch harness. There should be no continuity between the terminals when the switch is in its normal (fully extended) position.
When the switch is depressed more than 1.25 mm
(0.050), the ohmmeter should show continuity (zero ohms).
If ohmmeter readings do not fall within these ranges, the switch is defective, and must be replaced.
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH–MECHANICAL TEST
With the park brake set and the vehicle IN NEU-
TRAL, turn the key to the start position. The vehicle should not crank. If the vehicle cranks, the switch is defective (shorted out) and must be replaced. If the vehicle does not crank proceed to the next step.
WARNING: BEFORE PERFORMING THIS STEP, BE
SURE THAT THE AREA IN FRONT OF THE VEHICLE
IS CLEAR OF OBSTRUCTIONS AND PEOPLE. VEHI-
CLE MAY MOVE WHEN PERFORMING THIS TEST.
With the park brake set and the vehicle IN GEAR, turn the key to the start position and hold it there.
Slowly depress the clutch pedal and feel for any vehicle motion when the starter is energized. If there is no motion the switch is working properly.
If motion is felt, check to see if the switch is making contact when the pedal is between 25 mm (1.0
in.) and 6 mm (0.25 in.) from the floor. If this condition is met, then the problem is either the clutch or the self-adjusting cable (See “Clutch Will Not Disengage Properly”). If this condition is not met, then the switch mounting tab on the brake bracket is bent, and the brake bracket must be replaced.
If vehicle will not crank, even with clutch pedal pressed to the floor, refer to “Service Diagnosis-
Clutch Pedal Position Switch” chart in this section.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS–CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
CONDITION
ENGINE WON’T CRANK WHEN
CLUTCH PEDAL IS PRESSED TO
THE FLOOR
POSSIBLE CAUSES
Switch does not have continuity when plunger is depressed 1.25 mm
Switch plunger is not depressed when clutch pedal is pushed to the floor
Problem is related to other components in the starting circuit
CORRECTION
Defective switch. Replace switch.
Floor mat interferes with clutch pedal movement. Move floor mat out of the way.
Check other components in the starting circuit. Refer to Section 8A,
Battery/Starting/Charging System.
6 - 4 CLUTCH
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS
Problem diagnosis will generally require a road test to determine the type of fault. Component inspection will then determine the problem after road testing.
Drive the vehicle at normal speeds during road test. Shift the transaxle through all gear ranges and
JA observe clutch action. If chatter, grab, slip, or improper release is experienced, remove and inspect the clutch components. If the problem is noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may be needed. The transaxle or other driveline components may actually be at fault.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CLUTCH GRAB/CHATTER
CONDITION
CLUTCH DISC FACING
COVERED WITH OIL OR
GREASE
NO FAULT FOUND WITH
CLUTCH
COMPONENTS
PARTIAL ENGAGEMENT OF
CLUTCH DISC
POSSIBLE CAUSES
Oil leak at engine rear main or transaxle input shaft seal
CORRECTION
Correct leak and replace modular clutch assembly
Too much grease applied to splines of disc and input shaft
Problem actually related to suspension or driveline component
Engine related problems
Clutch cover, spring, or release fingers bent, distorted (rough handling, improper assembly)
Clutch disc damaged or distorted
Clutch misalignment
Apply lighter coating of grease to splines
Further diagnosis required. Check engine/transmission mounts, suspension attaching parts and other driveline components as needed.
Check EFI and ignition systems
Replace modular clutch assembly
Replace modular clutch assembly
Check alignment and runout of flywheel, disc, or cover. Check clutch housing to engine dowels and dowel holes for damage. Correct as necessary.
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—CLUTCH SLIPS
CONDITION
DISC FACING WORN OUT
CLUTCH DISC FACING
CONTAMINATED WITH OIL OR
GREASE
CLUTCH IS RUNNING
PARTIALLY DISENGAGED
CLUTCH DISC FACINGS HAVE
FRACTURED INTO SMALL
PIECES
CLUTCH 6 - 5
POSSIBLE CAUSES
Normal wear.
Driver frequently rides (slips) clutch, results in rapid wear overheating.
Insufficient clutch cover diaphragm spring tension
Leak at rear main oil seal or transaxle input shaft seal
CORRECTION
Replace modular clutch assembly.
Replace modular clutch assembly
Replace modular clutch assembly
Replace leaking seals. Replace modular clutch assembly.
Excessive amount of grease applied to input shaft splines
Apply less grease to input shaft.
Replace modular clutch assembly
Road splash, water entering housing Seal housing. Inspect modular clutch assembly.
Release bearing sticking or binding, does not return to normal running position.
Verify that bearing is actually binding. Then, replace bearing and transmission front bearing retainer if sleeve surface is damaged.
Verify that self-adjuster is free to move
Cable self-adjuster mechanism sticking or binding causing high preload
Driver performs a 5-1 downshift at vehicle speed in excess of 60 miles per hour
Alert driver to problem cause.
Replace modular clutch assembly.
Leak at rear main or transaxle input shaft seal
Excessive heat from slippage
Replace modular clutch assembly.
Replace seal.
Replace modular clutch assembly
6 - 6 CLUTCH
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS—IMPROPER CLUTCH RELEASE
JA
CONDITION
CLUTCH DISC BINDS ON INPUT
SHAFT SPLINES
CLUTCH DISC RUSTED TO
FLYWHEEL AND/OR PRESSURE
PLATE
CLUTCH WILL NOT DISENGAGE
PROPERLY
POSSIBLE CAUSES
Clutch disc hub splines damaged during installation
CORRECTION
Clean, smooth, and lubricate disc and shaft splines. Replace modular clutch assembly and/or input shaft if splines are severely damaged.
Input shaft splines rough, damaged.
Clean input shaft splines. Then lube.
Corrosion or rust formations on splines of input shaft and disc
Clean input shaft splines and disc splines, then lube
Replace modular clutch assembly Occurs in vehicles stored or not driven for extended period of time.
Also occurs after steam cleaning if vehicle is not used for extended period.
Disc bent, distorted during transaxle installation
Replace modular clutch assembly
Replace modular clutch assembly Clutch cover diaphragm spring damaged during transaxle installation
Release fork bent, loose, or damaged
Clutch cable binding or routed incorrectly
Self-adjuster in cable not functioning properly, resulting in excess cable slack
Replace fork if worn or damaged
Check and correct cable routing
Pull on cable conduit at transaxle (as if disconnecting cable) to check adjuster operation
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS–CLUTCH PEDAL NOISE
CONDITION
CLUTCH PEDAL MAKES
REPEATED “POP” NOISE IN THE
FIRST INCH OF TRAVEL
CLUTCH PEDAL SQUEAKS
WHEN DEPRESSED TO FLOOR
POSSIBLE CAUSES
Self-adjusting mechanism in cable defective
Pedal bushings worn out or inadequate lubrication
Clutch pedal return spring worn out
CORRECTION
Replace clutch cable
Replace or lubricate bushings
Replace return spring
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
DRIVE PLATE MISALIGNMENT
Common causes of misalignment are:
• Heat warping
• Mounting drive plate on a dirty crankshaft flange
• Incorrect bolt tightening
• Improper seating on the crankshaft shoulder
• Loose crankshaft bolts
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the drive plate. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may misalign the flywheel, causing excessive runout.
Use new bolts when mounting drive plate to crankshaft. Tighten drive plate bolts to specified torque only. Over-tightening can distort the drive plate hub causing excessive runout.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check condition of the clutch cover before installation. A warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab and/or incomplete release or engagement. Use care when handling the clutch assembly. Impact can distort the cover, diaphragm spring, and release fingers.
CLUTCH CHATTER COMPLAINTS
For all clutch chatter complaints, do the following:
(1) Check for loose, misaligned, or broken engine and transmission mounts. If present, they should be corrected at this time. Test vehicle for chatter. If chatter is gone, there is no need to go any further. If chatter persists:
(2) Check to see if clutch cable routing is correct and operates smoothly.
(3) Check for loose connections in drive train. Correct any problems and determine if clutch chatter complaints have been satisfied. If not:
(4) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Transaxle for procedure.
(5) Check to see if the release bearing is sticky or binding. Replace bearing, if needed.
(6) Check linkage for excessive wear on the pivot stud and fork fingers. Replace all worn parts.
(7) Check clutch assembly for contamination (dirt, oil). Replace clutch assembly, if required.
(8) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are damaged. Replace with new clutch assembly, if necessary.
(9) Check input shaft splines for damage. Replace, if necessary.
(10) Check for uneven wear on clutch fingers.
(11) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm spring fingers. Replace with new clutch assembly, if necessary.
CLUTCH CABLE BELL-
CLUTCH 6 - 7
CLASH–INTO–REVERSE COMPLAINTS
All JA NV T350 (A-578) manual transaxles are equipped with a reverse brake. It prevents clash when shifting into reverse, but only if the vehicle is not moving. See Group 21, Transaxle for further diagnosis.
(1) Depress clutch pedal to floor and hold. After three seconds, shift to reverse. If clash is present, clutch has excessive spin time, and the reverse brake may not be functioning.
(2) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Transaxle for procedure.
(3) Check the input shaft spline, clutch disc splines, and release bearing for dry rust. If present, clean rust off and apply a light coat of bearing grease to the input shaft splines. Apply grease on the input shaft splines only where the clutch disc slides. Verify that the clutch disc slides freely along the input shaft spline.
(4) Check to see if the clutch disc hub splines are damaged, and replace with new clutch assembly if required.
(5) Check the input shaft for damaged splines.
Replace as necessary.
(6) Check for broken clutch cover diaphragm spring fingers.
(7) Install clutch assembly and transaxle.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
CLUTCH CABLE
REMOVAL
(1) Pull up and remove Power Distribution Center.
(2) Remove clutch cable inspection cover.
(3) Pull back on clutch cable housing and disengage cable from housing (Fig. 4).
Fig. 4 Cable at Transaxle
CLUTCH PEDAL CLUTCHCABLE UPSTOP/SPACER PEDAL
6 - 8 CLUTCH
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(4) Guide cable through slot in transaxle and disconnect cable from release lever.
(5) Disconnect clutch cable up-stop/spacer with cable strand from clutch pedal (Fig. 5).
(3) Connect the clutch cable to the up-stop/spacer.
(4) Connect the up-stop/spacer to the clutch pedal.
(5) Perform the Adjuster Mechanism Function
Check before finishing installation.
NOTE: Depressing the clutch pedal provides access to the clutch cable strand. Disconnect the cable up-stop/spacer from the pedal pivot pin by removing the retaining clip at the top of the clutch pedal. Wedge a flat–blade pry tool between the pin and the retaining tab. While holding the tab slightly separated from the pin, pull the upstop/spacer off the pedal. Now remove the cable end from the upstop/spacer.
ADJUSTER MECHANISM FUNCTION CHECK
(1) With slight pressure, pull the clutch release lever end of the cable to draw the cable taut. Push the clutch cable housing toward the dash panel (With less than 25 lbs. of effort, the cable housing should move 30-50mm.). This indicates proper adjuster mechanism function. If the cable does not adjust, determine if the mechanism is properly seated on the bracket.
(2) If the adjust mechanism functions properly, guide the cable through the slot in the transaxle housing. Connect cable to release lever, seating the cupped washer securely on lever tangs.
(3) Pull back on clutch cable housing and insert into transaxle housing (Fig. 4).
(4) Reinstall cable inspection cover and PDC.
Check clutch pedal position switch operation.
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
The clutch pedal position switch is mounted to a bracket located behind the clutch pedal. The switch is held in place by four plastic wing tabs.
The clutch pedal position switch IS NOT adjustable. The pedal blade contacts the switch in the down position (Fig. 6).
Fig. 5 Cable End Removal
CAUTION: Do not pull on the clutch cable to remove it from the dash panel. Damage to the cable self-adjuster may occur.
(6) Use a slight twisting motion while grasping the grommet and body to remove the cable from the dash panel and clutch bracket.
(7) A screwdriver may be required to dislodge the cable grommet from the dash panel. Use caution to avoid damage to the cable grommet.
INSTALLATION
(1) Using a slight twisting motion, insert the self-
–adjuster mechanism end of the clutch cable through the dash panel hole and into the bracket.
(2) Seat the cylindrical part of the cable grommet in the dash panel. Be sure the self–adjuster is firmly seated against the clutch bracket to ensure proper adjuster mechanism function.
Fig. 6 Clutch Pedal Position Switch andComponents
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect electrical harness to switch connector.
(2) Depress wing tabs on switch and push switch out of mounting bracket. Then slide wires through slot in bracket.
ENGINE CASE TO CLUTCH BOLT TO DRIVE
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide switch wires through slot in switch bracket.
(2) Line up switch tab with slot in switch bracket and push switch into position. Do not pull on the switch wires to seat switch into bracket, switch damage may occur.
(3) Attach switch wiring harness to vehicle wiring harness.
(4) After installation, the switch must be checked for proper operation. Refer to Diagnosis and Testing section for proper testing procedures.
CLUTCH 6 - 9
(2) Install transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Transaxle, for procedure.
NOTE: Use new bolts when mounting modular clutch assembly to drive plate.
(3) To avoid distortion of the drive plate, bolts should be tightened a few turns at a time. Use a crisscross pattern, until all bolts are seated. Tighten bolts to 75 N·m (55 ft. lbs.) following a crisscross pattern sequence.
(4) Install clutch inspection cover.
(5) Install transaxle lower support brackets.
(6) Install starter assembly.
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
The transaxle must be removed to service the modular clutch disc assembly and lever.
RELEASE BEARING AND FORK
Remove the transaxle from the vehicle. See Group
21, Transaxle for removal and installation procedures.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the starter wiring. Remove the starter assembly.
(2) Remove the rear transaxle support bracket.
(3) Remove the front transaxle support bracket.
(4) Remove modular clutch retaining bolts.
(5) Remove transaxle. See Group 21, Manual Transaxle, for procedure.
(6) The transaxle and modular clutch come out as an assembly.
(7) Remove the modular clutch assembly from the transaxle input shaft (Fig. 7). Handle carefully to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces.
REMOVAL
(1) Move the lever and bearing assembly to a vertical in-line position. Grasp the release lever with two hands in the pivot stud socket area. Pull with even pressure and the lever will pop off the pivot-
–stud. Do not use a screwdriver or pry bar to pop off the lever. This may damage the spring clip on the lever.
(2) As a unit, remove the fork from the bearing thrust plate. Be careful not to damage retention tabs on bearing.
(3) Examine the condition of the bearing. It is pre-lubricated and sealed and should not be immersed in oil or solvent.
(4) The bearing should turn smoothly when held in the hand under a light thrust load. A light drag caused by the lubricant fill is normal. If the bearing is noisy, rough, or dry, replace the complete bearing assembly with a new bearing.
(5) Check the condition of the pivot stud spring clips on back side of clutch fork. If the clips are broken or distorted, replace the clutch fork.
Fig. 7 Clutch Components
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect for oil leakage through engine rear main bearing oil seal and transaxle input shaft seal.
If leakage is noted, it should be corrected at this time.
INSTALLATION
(1) Mount modular clutch assembly onto input shaft.
INSTALLATION
(1) The pivot ball pocket in the fork is Teflon coated and should be installed WITHOUT any lubricant such as grease. Using grease will break down the Teflon coating. Be sure the ball stud and fork pocket are clean of contamination and dirt.
(2) Assemble the fork to the bearing. The small pegs on the bearing must go over the fork arms.
(3) Slide the bearing and fork assembly onto the input shaft bearing retainer, as a unit.
(4) Snap the clutch fork onto the pivot ball.
(5) Reinstall transaxle assembly. Refer to Group
21, Transaxle for further information.
6 - 10 CLUTCH
CABLE
JA
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch malfunctions. Oil, grease, water, or other fluids on the clutch contact surfaces will cause faulty operation.
During inspection, note if any components are contaminated. Look for evidence of oil, grease, or water/ road splash on clutch components.
OIL CONTAMINATION
Oil contamination indicates a leak at the rear main seal and/or transaxle input shaft. Oil leaks produce a residue of oil on the transaxle housing interior, clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup caused by slippage can bake the oil residue onto the components. This glaze-like residue ranges in color from amber to black.
GREASE CONTAMINATION
Grease contamination is usually a product of overlubrication. During clutch service, apply only a small amount of grease to the input shaft splines. Excess grease may be thrown off during operation, contaminating the disc.
ROAD SPLASH/WATER CONTAMINATION
Road splash contamination is usually caused by driving the vehicle through deep water puddles.
Water can be forced into the clutch housing, causing clutch components to become contaminated. Facing of disc will absorb moisture and bond to the flywheel and/or, pressure plate, if vehicle is allowed to stand for some time before use. If this condition occurs, replacement of clutch assembly may be required.
Drive the vehicle until normal clutch operating temperature has been obtained. This will dry off disc assembly, pressure plate, and flywheel.
CLEANING PRECAUTIONS
Condensation from steam vapors tend to accumulate on the internal clutch mechanism when the vehicle is steam cleaned. Facing of disc will absorb moisture and will bond to flywheel and/or pressure plate, if vehicle is allowed to stand for some time before use. If this condition occurs, it may require replacement of clutch assembly. After cleaning, drive the vehicle to its normal clutch operating temperature. This will dry off disc assembly, pressure plate, and flywheel.
ADJUSTMENTS
CLUTCH CABLE
The manual transaxle clutch release system has a unique self-adjusting mechanism to compensate for clutch disc wear (Fig. 8). This adjuster mechanism is located within the clutch cable assembly. The preload spring maintains tension on the cable. This tension keeps the clutch release bearing continuously loaded against the fingers of the clutch cover assembly.
Fig. 8 Clutch Cable Routing
ADJUSTER MECHANISM FUNCTION CHECK
(1) With slight pressure, pull the clutch release lever end of the cable to draw the cable taut. Push the clutch cable housing toward the dash panel. With less than 25 lbs. of effort the cable housing should move 30-50mm. This indicates proper adjuster mechanism function. If the cable does not adjust, determine if the mechanism is properly seated on the bracket.
(2) If the adjust mechanism functions properly, guide the cable through the slot in the transaxle housing. Connect cable to release lever, seating the cupped washer securely on lever tangs.
CLUTCH CABLE BELL-
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ADJUSTMENTS (Continued)
(3) Pull back on clutch cable housing and insert into transaxle housing (Fig. 9).
UPSTOP/SPACER PEDAL
CLUTCH 6 - 11
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
The clutch pedal position switch is mounted to a bracket located behind the clutch pedal. The switch is held in place by four plastic wing tabs.
The clutch pedal position switch IS NOT adjustable. The pedal blade contacts the switch in the down position (Fig. 10).
Fig. 9 Cable at Transaxle
(4) Reinstall cable inspection cover and air cleaner assembly. Check clutch pedal position switch operation.
Fig. 10 Clutch Pedal Position Switch andComponents
SPECIFICATIONS
NV T350 (A-578) CLUTCH TIGHTENING
REFERENCE
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Drive Plate To Clutch Bolts . . . . 75 N·m (55 ft. lbs.)
Drive Plate To Crankshaft
Bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.)
Clutch Pedal Pivot Shaft Nut . . . 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.)
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COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 1
COOLING SYSTEM
GENERAL INFORMATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLERS
. . 7
COOLANT RECOVERY SYSTEM (CRS) . . . . . . . 4
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
. . . . . . . . 6
COOLING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
ENGINE THERMOSTATS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
EXTERNAL TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER—
2.5L ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
RADIATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
WATER PIPES—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE— 2.0/2.4L
ENGINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
WATER PUMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
COOLANT PERFORMANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
. . . . . . . . 8
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
RADIATOR HOSES AND CLAMPS . . . . . . . . . . . 8
THERMOSTAT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
. . . . . . . . . 10
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
. . . . . . . . . . . 11
. . . . . . . . . 17
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
ELECTRIC FAN MOTOR TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
. . . . . . . . . . 17
. . . . . . . . . 19
PRESSURE CAP TO FILLER NECK SEAL
PRESSURE RELIEF CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
PRESSURE TESTING COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE CAP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
CONTENTS page page
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
. . . . . . . 20
TESTING SYSTEM FOR LEAKS . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
SERVICE PROCEDURES
ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANT . . . . . . . . . . . 21
. . . . . . . . . . . . 21
REFILLING COOLING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
. . . . . . . . 21
SERVICING COOLANT LEVEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS—2.0/2.4L
ENGINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT—2.5L ENGINE . . . . 30
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
RADIATOR FAN, MOTOR AND SHROUD . . . . . 27
RADIATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
THERMOSTAT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE—2.0/2.4L
ENGINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
. . . . . . . . . 22
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT INSPECTION . . . . . 31
CHEMICAL CLEANING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
CLEANING COOLING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
RADIATOR FLUSHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
. . . . . . . . . 31
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
ADJUSTMENTS
BELT TENSION GAUGE METHOD . . . . . . . . . . 32
SPECIFICATIONS
. . . . . . . . . . . . 33
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
SPECIAL TOOLS
COOLING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
7 - 2
RADIATOR
COOLING SYSTEM
ENGINE
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GENERAL INFORMATION
COOLING SYSTEM
Throughout this group, references may be made to a particular vehicle by letter or number designation.
A chart showing the breakdown of these designations is included in the Introduction Section at the front of this service manual.
The cooling system consists of an engine cooling module, thermostat, coolant, a water pump to circulate the coolant. The engine cooling module may consist of a radiator, electric fan motor, shroud, radiator pressure cap, coolant reserve system, transmission oil cooler, hoses, clamps, air condition condenser, transmission oil lines and charge air cooler.
•
When Engine is cold: Thermostat is closed, cooling system has no flow through the radiator. The coolant bypass flows through the engine and heater core.
• When Engine is warm: Thermostat is open, cooling system has bypass flow and coolant flow through radiator and heater core.
Its primary purpose is to maintain engine temperature in a range that will provide satisfactory engine performance and emission levels under all expected driving conditions. It also provides hot water (coolant) for heater performance and cooling for automatic transmission oil. It does this by transferring heat from engine metal to coolant, moving this heated coolant to the radiator, and then transferring this heat to the ambient air.
Coolant flow circuits for 2.0L and 2.4L engine equipped vehicles are shown in (Fig. 1). The 2.5L
engine coolant routing is shown in (Fig. 2).
WATER PIPES—2.5L
The 2.5L engine use metal piping beyond the lower radiator hose to route coolant to the suction side of water pump, located in the V of the cylinder banks.
The pipes are also provided with inlet nipples for thermostat bypass and heater return coolant hoses, and brackets for rigid engine attachment. The pipes employ O-rings for sealing at their interconnection and to the water pump (Fig. 3).
Fig. 1 Cooling System Operation—2.0Land 2.4L Engines
RECOVERY HEATER TUBES O-RING HOUSING
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GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
DAMPER THERMOSTAT HOUSING COMPRESSOR
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 3
Fig. 2 Cooling System Operation—2.5LEngine
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS
The engine is equipped with 2 drive belts. One belt drives the power steering pump, the other drives the generator and air conditioning. (Fig. 4)
Fig. 3 Engine Inlet Coolant Pipes—2.5LEngine
Fig. 4 Drive Belts—All Engines
VENT THERMOSTAT
7 - 4 COOLING SYSTEM
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
COOLANT RECOVERY SYSTEM (CRS)
This system works in conjunction with the pressure cap to utilize thermal expansion and contraction of the coolant to keep the coolant free of trapped air.
It provides a volume for expansion and contraction, provides a convenient and safe method for checking coolant level and adjusting level at atmospheric pressure without removing the pressure cap. It also provides some reserve coolant to cover minor leaks and evaporation or boiling losses.
All vehicles are equipped with this system (Fig. 5).
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ENGINE THERMOSTATS
The 2.0 and 2.4L engine thermostats are located on the front of the engine (radiator side) in the thermostat housing/engine outlet connector (Fig. 6) and (Fig.
7). The thermostat has a air bleed located in the flange and a o-ring with a locating dimple incorporate on it. There is a relief in the cylinder head for locating the air bleed.
Fig. 6 Thermostat/Engine Outlet Connector—
2.0LEngine
Fig. 5 Coolant Recovery System
See Coolant Level Check Service, Deaeration and
Pressure Cap sections for operation and service.
Vehicles equipped with the electric monitor system use a level sensor in the CRS tank, see Group 8E
Electrical for service.
Fig. 7 Thermostat and Engine Outlet Connector—
2.4LEngine
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GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
The 2.5L engine thermostat is located in a thermostat housing, located below the throttle body. This thermostat has an air bleed valve, located in the thermostat flange (Fig. 8).
WATERPUMP INLET PIPE GASKET
COOLING SYSTEM
O-RING
7 - 5
The water pump is driven by the timing belt. See
Timing System in Group 9, Engine for component removal providing access to water pump.
Fig. 8 Thermostat, Housing and Inlet Elbow—
2.5LEngine
WATER PUMP
The water pump body is made of aluminum with a steel impeller. The water pump is bolted to the front of the block, and driven by the timing belt. The water pump is the heart of the cooling system, pumping the coolant through the engine block, cylinder head, heater core, and radiator.
NOTE: The water pump on all models can be replaced without discharging the air conditioning system.
WATER PUMP—2.5L ENGINE
The 2.5L pump bolts directly to the engine block, using a gasket for pump to block sealing (Fig. 9). The pump is serviced as a unit.
Fig. 9 Water Pump—2.5LEngine
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE— 2.0/2.4L ENGINES
The inlet tube connects the water pump to the radiator and heater core. This tube is sealed by a o-ring and held in place by fasteners to the block.
COOLANT
The cooling system is designed around the coolant.
The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in the cylinder head area near the exhaust valves. Then carry this heat to the radiator where the tube/fin assemblies of these components can give off the heat to the air.
COOLANT REPLACEMENT
Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance for schedule.
NIPPLE OIL VENT VALVE STAINLESS-STEEL
7 - 6 COOLING SYSTEM
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE CAP
The cooling system is equipped with a pressure cap that releases pressure at some point within a range of 97-124 kPa (14-18 psi) (Fig. 10).
The system will operate at higher than atmospheric pressure, which raises the coolant boiling point, allowing increased radiator cooling capacity.
There is a vent valve in the center of the cap that allows a small coolant flow to the CRS tank. If the valve is stuck shut, the radiator hoses will collapse on cool-down. Clean the vent valve (Fig.
10) to ensure proper sealing when boiling point is reached.
DRAIN
JA
There is a gasket in the cap that seals to the top of the filler neck so that vacuum is maintained to draw coolant back into the system from the coolant reserve system tank.
RADIATOR
The radiators are cross flow types (horizontal tubes) with design features that provide greater strength as well as sufficient heat transfer capabilities to keep the engine satisfactorily cooled (Fig. 11).
CAUTION: Plastic tanks, while stronger then brass are subject to damage by impact, such as wrenches.
Fig. 10 Cooling System Pressure Cap toFiller Neck
Fig. 11 Radiator Module
EXTERNAL TUBE NUTS
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GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM FANS
All models use electric motor driven cooling system fans. The fan modules include a motor support and shroud. The module is fastened to the radiator by bolts (Fig. 12).
All fan motors are two speed. Attempts to reduce high temperature gauge reading by increasing engine speed, at the same vehicle speed, can increase high temperature.
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 7
EXTERNAL TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER—2.5L
ENGINE
Is a external oil-to-air type mounted ahead of the cooling module (Fig. 14). This style cooler uses steel tube and rubber oil lines to feed oil from the internal cooler to the external and then to the automatic transmission. Use only approved transmission oil cooler hose. Since these are molded to fit space available, molded hoses are recommended.
Fig. 12 Fan Module
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLERS
Oil coolers are internal oil to coolant type, mounted in the radiator left tank (Fig. 13). Rubber oil lines feed the oil cooler and the automatic transmission.
Use only approved transmission oil cooler hose. Since these are molded to fit space available, molded hoses are recommended. Tighten Oil Cooler Hose Clamps to 2 N·m (18 in. lbs.).
Fig. 14 Transmission Oil Cooler—2.5LEngine
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
On all models an engine block heater is available as an optional accessory. The heater, operated by ordinary house current (110 Volt A.C.) through a power cord and connector behind the radiator grille.
Refer to Description and Operation in this section for more information.
Fig. 13 Transmission Oil Cooler—2.4LEngine
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
THERMOSTAT
The engine cooling thermostats are wax pellet driven, reverse poppet choke type. They are designed to provide the fastest warm up possible by preventing leakage through them and to guarantee a minimum engine operating temperature of 88 to 93°C
(192 to 199°F). They also automatically reach wide open so they do not restrict flow to the radiator as temperature of the coolant rises in hot weather to around 104°C (220°F). Above this temperature the coolant temperature is controlled by the radiator, fan, and ambient temperature, not the thermostat.
THERMOSTAT VENT VALVE STAINLESS-STEEL
7 - 8 COOLING SYSTEM
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled container (pellet) which is sealed so that when heated to a predetermined temperature. The wax expands enough to overcome the closing spring and water pump pressure, which forces the valve to open. Coolant leakage into the pellet will cause a thermostat to fail open. Do not attempt to free up a thermostat with a screwdriver.
COOLANT PERFORMANCE
Performance is measurable. For heat transfer pure water absorbs 1 btu for each degree of temperature rise for each pound of water. This formula is altered when necessary additives to control boiling, freezing, and corrosion are added as follows:
•
Pure Water (1 btu) boils at 100°C (212°F) and freezes at 0°C (32°F).
•
100 Percent ethylene glycol (.7 btu) can cause an engine to run hot, cause detonation, and will freeze at -22°C (-8°F).
• 50/50 Ethylene Glycol and Distilled Water (.82
btu) is the recommended combination that provides a freeze point of -37°C (-35°F). The radiator, water pump, engine water jacket, radiator pressure cap, thermostat, temperature gauge, coolant sensor and heater are all designed for 50/50 ethylene glycol.
Where required, a 56 percent glycol and 44 percent water mixture will provide a freeze point of -46°C
(-50°F).
COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE CAP
The cooling system is equipped with a pressure cap that releases built up pressure, maintaining a range of 97-124 kPa (14-18 psi).
The cooling system will operate at higher than atmospheric pressure. The higher pressure raises the coolant boiling point thus, allowing increased radiator cooling capacity.
There is also a vent valve in the center of the cap.
This valve also opens when coolant is cooling and contracting allowing coolant to return to radiator from coolant reserve system tank by vacuum through connecting hose. If valve is stuck shut, the radia- tor hoses will be collapsed on cool down. Clean the vent valve (Fig. 15) to ensure proper sealing when boiling point is reached.
The gasket in the cap seals the filler neck, so that vacuum can be maintained, allowing coolant to be drawn back into the radiator from the reserve tank.
NOTE: Richer mixtures cannot be measured with field equipment and can lead to problems associated with 100 percent glycol. If there is doubt that the coolant mixture is to rich for field equipment to measure, put a sample in a clean container. Add exactly the same amount of water and retest. If the coolant in the vehicle is 100% antifreeze, the diluted sample will read 50%. If the coolant in the vehicle was 70% antifreeze and 30% water, the diluted sample will read as 35%, etc.
Fig. 15 Cooling System Pressure Cap
RADIATOR HOSES AND CLAMPS
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN
RECENTLY, WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE WORKING
ON VEHICLE. RELIEVE PRESSURE BY PLACING A
SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP AND WITHOUT
PUSHING DOWN ROTATE IT COUNTERCLOCKWISE
TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS TO ESCAPE
THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE AND WHEN THE
SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING OUT COOLANT AND
STEAM AND THE PRESSURE DROPS CONTINUE
SERVICE.
SELECTION AND ADDITIVES
The use of aluminum cylinder heads, intake manifolds, and water pumps requires special corrosion protection. Mopar Antifreeze or their equivalent are recommended for best engine cooling without corrosion. When mixed only to a freeze point of -37°C
(-35°F) to -59°C (-50°F). If it looses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed solution.
CAUTION: Do not use well water, or suspected water supply in cooling system. A 50/50 ethylene glycol and distilled water mix is recommended.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAM. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
HOSE CLAMP TOOL HOSECLAMP
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement is necessary, use only a original equipment clamp with matching number or letter.
The hose clamps are removed by using Special Tool
6094 or equivalent constant tension clamp pliers
(Fig. 16) to compress hose clamp.
A hardened, cracked, swollen or restricted hose should be replaced. Do not damage radiator inlet and outlet when loosening hoses.
Radiator hoses should be routed without any kinks and indexed as designed. The use of molded hoses is recommended.
Spring type hose clamps are used in all applications. If replacement is necessary replace with the original Mopar equipment spring type clamp.
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 9
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
The heater, operated by ordinary house current
(110 Volt A.C.) through a power cord and connector behind the radiator grille, provides easier engine starting and faster warm-up when vehicle is operated in areas having extremely low temperatures. The heater is mounted in a core hole (in place of a core hole plug) in the engine block, with the heating element immersed in coolant (Fig. 17). The power cord must be secured in its retainer clips, and not positioned so it could contact linkages or exhaust manifolds and become damaged. For removal procedures, refer to Removal and
Installation in this section.
Fig. 16 Hose Clamp Tool
PUMP BODY
7 - 10 COOLING SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
FWD O-RING WATER PUMP
JA
Fig. 17 Engine Block Heater
WATER PUMP—2.0/2.4L ENGINES
The water has a diecast aluminum body and housing with a stamped steel impeller. The water pump bolts directly to the block (Fig. 18). Cylinder block to water pump sealing is provided by a rubber O-ring.
The water pump is driven by the timing belt. Refer to Group 9, Engine section for component removal to access the water pump.
WATER PUMP—2.5L ENGINE
The water pump has a aluminum body with a steel impeller. A gasket is used to seal the pump to the cylinder block. The water pump inlet is located at the rear of the pump, a inlet tube located between the cylinder heads connects the water pump with the thermostat housing (Fig. 19). The water pump is driven by the timing belt. Refer to group 9, Engines for timing belt removal.
NOTE: The water pump on all models can be replaced without discharging the air conditioning system.
NOTE: The water pump can be replaced with out discharging the air conditioning system.
Fig. 18 Water Pump
Fig. 19 Water Pump and Inlet Tube
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COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
LOW
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH OR ENGINE COOLANT
WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST FROM SYSTEM.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) number 17 been set indicating a stuck open engine thermostat?
CORRECTION
1. Refer to On Board Diagnostic in
Group 25. Replace thermostat if necessary. if the (DTC) number 17 has not been set, the problem may be with the temperature gauge.
2. Check the connector at the engine coolant sensor. Refer to
Group 8E. Repair as necessary.
2. Is the temperature gauge (if equipped) connected to the temperature gauge coolant sensor on the engine?
3. Is the temperature gauge (if equipped) operating OK?
4. Coolant level low during cold ambient temperature, accompanied by poor heater performance.
1. Trailer being towed, a steep hill being climbed, vehicle being operated in slow moving traffic, or engine idling during high ambient
(outside) temperatures with air conditioning on. High altitudes
Could aggravate these conditions.
2. Is temperature gauge (if equipped) reading correctly?
3. Is temperature warning lamp (if equipped) illuminating unnecessarily?
4. Coolant low in overflow/reserve tank and radiator?
3. Check Gauge operation. Refer to
Group 8E. Repair as necessary.
4. Check coolant level in the coolant overflow/reserve tank and the radiator. Inspect the system for leaks. Repair as necessary. Refer to
WARNINGS outlined in this section before removing pressure cap.
1. This may be a temporary condition and repair is not necessary. Turn off the air conditioning and drive the vehicle without any of the previous conditions. Observe the temperature gauge the gauge should return to the normal range. If the gauge does not return to the normal range, determine the cause of the overheating and repair. Refer to
POSSIBLE CAUSES in this section.
2. Check gauge. Refer to Group 8E.
Repair as necessary.
3. Check warning lamp operation.
Refer to Group 8E. Repair as necessary.
4. Check for coolant leaks and repair as necessary. Refer to checking cooling system for leaks in this group.
5. Tighten cap.
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly.
If cap is loose, boiling point of coolant will be lowered. Also refer to the following step 6.
6. Poor seals at radiator cap.
6. (a) Check condition of cap and cap seals. Refer to Radiator cap
Inspection. Replace cap if necessary.
6. (b) Check condition of filler neck.
If neck is bent or damaged, replace neck.
7 - 12 COOLING SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CONT.
CONDITION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH OR ENGINE COOLANT
WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST FROM SYSTEM.
JA
POSSIBLE CAUSES
7. Coolant level low in radiator but not in coolant overflow/reserve tank. This means the radiator is not drawing coolant from the coolant overflow/reserve tank as the engine cools.
As the engine cools, a vacuum is formed inside the cooling system. If the radiator cap seals are defective, or the cooling system has a leak, a vacuum can not be formed.
8. Freeze point of coolant not correct. Mixture may be to rich.
9. Coolant not flowing through system.
CORRECTION
7. (a) Check condition of radiator cap and cap seals. Replace cap if necessary.
(b) Check condition of filler neck. If neck is damaged, replace filler neck.
(c) Check condition of hoses from filler neck to coolant tank. It should be tight at both ends without any kinks or tears. Replace hose if necessary.
(d) Check coolant overflow/reserve tank and tank hoses for blockage.
Repair as necessary.
8. Check coolant. Refer to coolant section in this group. Adjust glycol to water ratio as required.
9. Check for coolant flow at filler neck with some coolant removed, engine warm and thermostat open.
Coolant should be observed flowing through filler neck. If flow is not observed determine reason for lack of flow and repair as necessary.
10. Clean insects or debris.
10. Radiator or A/C condenser fins are dirty or clogged.
11. Radiator core is plugged or corroded.
12. Fuel or ignition system problems.
11. Replace or re-core radiator.
13. Dragging brakes.
12. Refer to Fuel and Ignition
System group for diagnosis. Also refer to the appropriate Powertrain
Diagnosis Procedures manual for operation of the DRB scan tool.
13. Inspect brake system and repair as necessary. Refer to Group 5,
Brakes for diagnosis.
14. Remove bug screen.
14. Bug screen is being used causing reduced air flow.
15. Thermostat partially or completely shut. This is more prevalent on high mileage vehicles.
16. Electric cooling fan not operating properly.
17. Cylinder head gasket leaking.
18. Heater core leaking.
15. Check thermostat operation and replace as necessary. Refer to thermostats in this group.
16. Check electric fan operation and repair as necessary.
17. Check cylinder head gasket for leaks. Refer to testing cooling system for leaks. For repairs, refer to group 9, Engines.
18. Check heater core for leaks.
Refer to Group 24, Heating and Air
Conditioning. Repair as necessary.
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CONT.
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 13
CONDITION
TEMPERAUTRE GAUGE READING
IS INCONSISTENT (FLUCTUATES,
CYCLES OR IS ERRATIC)
POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. The gauge may cycle up and down. This is due to the cycling of the electric radiator fan.
CORRECTION
1. A normal condition. No correction is necessary. If gauge cycling is going into the hot zone, check electric fan operation and repair as necessary. Refer to procedure outlined in this section.
2. A normal condition. No correction is necessary.
2. During cold weather operation, with the heater blower in the high position, the gauge reading may drop slightly.
3. Temperature gauge or engine mounted gauge sensor defective or shorted. Also, corroded or loose wiring in this circuit.
4. Gauge reading rises when vehicle is brought to a stop after heavy use (engine is still running).
3. Check operation of gauge and repair if necessary. Refer to Group
8E, Instrument Panel and Gauges
5. Gauge reading high after re-starting a warmed-up (hot) engine.
4. A normal condition. No correction is necessary. Gauge reading should return to normal range after vehicle is driven.
5. A normal condition. No correction is necessary. The gauge should return to normal range after a few minutes of engine operation.
6. Check and correct coolant leaks.
Refer to Testing Cooling System for
Leaks in this group.
6. Coolant level low in radiator (air will build up in the cooling system causing the thermostat to open late).
7. Cylinder head gasket leaking allowing exhaust gas to enter cooling system causing thermostat to open late.
8. Water pump impeller loose on shaft.
9. Loose accessory drive belt
(water pump slipping).
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING
OFF STEAM AND/OR COOLANT
TO COOLANT TANK.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
MAY BE ABOVE NORMAL BUT
NOT HIGH. COOLANT LEVEL MAY
BE HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK
10. Air leak on suction side of water pump allows air to build up in cooling system causing thermostat to open late.
1. Pressure relief valve in radiator cap is defective.
7. (a) Check for cylinder head gasket leaks with a commercially available Block Leak Tester. Repair as necessary.
(b) Check for coolant in the engine oil. Inspect for white steam emitting from exhaust system. Repair as necessary.
8. Check water pump and replace as necessary. Refer to Water
Pumps in this group.
9. Refer to Engine Accessory Drive
Belts in this group. Check and correct as necessary.
10. Locate leak and repair as necessary.
1. Check condition of radiator cap and cap seals. Refer to Radiator
Caps in this group. Replace cap as necessary.
7 - 14 COOLING SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CONT.
CONDITION
COOLANT LOSS TO THE
GROUND WITHOUT PRESSURE
CAP BLOWOFF. GAUGE IS
READING HIGH OR HOT
DETONATION OR PRE-IGNITION
(NOT CAUSED BY IGNITION
SYSTEM). GAUGE MAY OR MAY
NOT BE READING HIGH
JA
POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Coolant leaks in radiator, cooling system hoses, water pump or engine.
CORRECTION
1. Pressure test and repair as necessary. Refer to Testing Cooling
System for Leaks in this group.
1. Engine overheating.
1. Check reason for overheating and repair as necessary.
HOSE OR HOSES COLLAPSE
WHEN ENGINE IS COOLING
ELECTRIC RADIATOR FAN RUNS
ALL THE TIME
ELECTRIC RADIATOR FAN WILL
NOT RUN. GAUGE READING
HIGH OR HOT
NOISY FAN
2. Freeze point of coolant not correct. Mixture is too rich or too lean.
1. Vacuum created in cooling system on engine cool-down is not being relieved through coolant reserve/overflow system.
1. Fan relay, powertrain control module (PCM) or engine coolant temperature sensor defective.
2. Check for low coolant level.
1. Fan motor defective.
2. Fan relay, powertrain control modue (PCM) or engine coolant temperature sensor defective.
3. Blown fuse in power distribution center (PDC).
1. Fan blades loose.
2. Fan blades striking a surrounding object.
3. Air obstructions at radiator or air conditioning condenser.
4. Electric fan motor defective.
2. Check the freeze point of the coolant. Refer to Coolant in the group for test procedure. Adjust the glycol to water ratio as required.
1. (a) Radiator cap relief valve stuck. Refer to Radiator Cap in this group. Replace if necessary.
(b) Hose between coolant resrve overflow tank and radiator is kinked.
Repair as necessary.
(c) Vent at coolant reserve/overflow tank is plugged. Clean vent and repair as necessary.
(d) Reserve/overflow tank is internally blocked or plugged. Check for blockage and repair as necessary.
1. Refer to appropriate Powertrain
Diagnostic Procedures manual for operation of the DRB scan tool.
Repair as necessary.
2. Repair as necessary.
1. Refer to appropriate Powertrain
Diagnostic Procedures manual for operation of the DRB scan tool.
Repair as necessary.
2. Refer to appropriate Powertrain
Diagnostic Procedures manual for operation of the DRB scan tool.
Repair as necessary.
3. Determine reason for blown fuse and repair as necessary.
1. Replace fan blade assembly.
Refer to Cooling System Fans in this group.
2. Locate point of fan blade contact and repair as necessary.
3. Remove obstructions and/or clean debris or insects from radiator or A/C condenser.
4. Refer to procedure outlined in this section.
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CONT.
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 15
CONDITION
INADEQUATE AIR CONDITIONER
PERFORMANCE (COOLING
SYSTEM SUSPECTED)
INADEQUATE HEATER
PERFORMANCE.
HEAT ODOR
POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Radiator and/or air conditioning condenser is restricted, obstructed or dirty.
2. Electric radiator fan not operating when a/c is on.
CORRECTION
1. Remove restriction and/or clean as necessary.
2. Refer to appropriate Powertrain
Diagnostic Procedures manual for operation of the DRB scan tool.
repair as necessary.
3. Correct overheating condition.
Refer to Group 7, Cooling.
3. Engine is overheating ( heat may be transferred from radiator to A/C condenser. High underhood temperature due to engine overheating may also transfer heat to A/C components).
1. Has a diagnostic trouble code
(DTC) number 17 been set?
2. Coolant level low.
3. Obstructions in heater hose fittings at engine.
4. Heater hose kinked.
5. Water pump is not pumping coolant to heater core. When the engine is fully warmed up, both heater hoses should be hot to the touch. The accessory drive belt may be slipping causing poor water pump operation.
6. Various heat shields are used at certain drive line components. One or more of these shields may be missing.
1. Refer to On-Board Diagnostic in
Group 25, and replace thermostat if necessary.
2. Refer to testing cooling system for leaks in this section. Repair as necessary.
3. Remove heater hoses at both ends and check for obstructions.
Repair as necessary.
4. Locate kinked area and repair as necessary.
5. Refer to water pump in this group. Repair as necessary. If slipping belt is detected, refer to accessory drive belts in this group.
Repair as necessary.
6. Locate missing shields and replace or repair as necessary.
7 - 16 COOLING SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CONT.
JA
CONDITION
HEAT ODOR - CONT.
STEAM IS COMING FROM FRONT
OF VEHICLE NEAR GRILL AREA
WHEN WEATHER IS WET,
ENGINE IS WARMED UP AND
RUNNING, AND VEHICLE IS
STATIONARY. TEMPERATURE
GAUGE IS IN NORMAL RANGE
COOLANT LEVEL CHANGES IN
COOLANT RESERVE/OVERFLOW
TANK. TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS
IN NORMAL RANGE
POSSIBLE CAUSES
2. Is temperature gauge reading above the normal range?
3. Is cooling fan operating correctly?
POOR DIRVEABILITY
(THERMOSTAT POSSIBLY STUCK
OPEN). GAUGE MAY BE READING
LOW
1. For proper driveability, good vehicle emissions and for preventing build-up of engine oil sludge, the thermostat must be operating properly. Has a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) number 17 been set?
COOLANT COLOR
CORRECTION
2. Refer to the previous
Temperature Gauge Reads High in these Diagnosis Charts. Repair as necessary.
3. Refer to Cooling System Fan in this group for diagnosis. Repair as necessary.
4. Clean undercoating as necessary.
4. Has undercoating been applied to any unnecessary component?
5. Engine may be running rich causing the catalytic converter to overheat.
1. During wet weather, moisture
(snow, ice or rain condensation) on the radiator will evaporate when the thermostat opens. This opening allows heated water into the radiator. When the moisture contacts the hot radiator, steam may be emitted. This ususally occurs in cold weather with no fan or airflow to blow it away.
1. Coolant color is not necessarily an indication of adequate corrosion or temperature protection. Do not rely on coolant color for determining condition of coolant.
1. Level changes are to be expected as coolant volume fluctuates with engine temperature.
If the level in the tank was between the FULL and ADD marks at normal engine operating temperature, the level should return to within that range after operation at elevated temperatures.
5. Refer to appropriate Powertrain
Diagnostic Procedures manual for operation of the DRB scan tool.
Repair as necessary.
1. Refer to On-Board Diagnostics in
Group 25. DTC’s may also be checked using the DRB scan tool.
Refer to the proper Powertrain
Diagnostics Procedures manual for checking the thermostat using the
DRB scan tool. Replace thermostat if necessary.
1. Occasional stem emitting from this area is normal. No repair is necessary.
1. Check the freeze point of the coolant. Refer to Coolant in the group for test procedure. Adjust the glycol to water ratio as required.
1. A normal condition. No repair is necessary.
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
ENGINE THERMOSTAT TESTING
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled container (pellet) which is sealed so that when heated to a predetermined temperature. The wax expands enough to overcome the closing spring and water pump pressure, which forces the valve to open. Coolant leakage into the pellet will cause a thermostat to fail open. Do not attempt to free up a thermostat with a screwdriver.
The thermostat that opens too soon type failure mode is included in the on-board diagnosis. The check engine light will not be lit by an open too soon condition. If it has failed open, code 17 will be set. Do not change a thermostat for lack of heater performance or temperature gage position, unless code 17 is present. See diagnosis for other probable causes.
Thermostat failing shut is the normal long term mode of failure, and normally, only on high mileage vehicles. The temperature gauge will indicate this,
Refer to diagnosis in this section.
WATER PUMP DIAGNOSIS
A quick flow test to tell whether or not the pump is working is to see if the heater warms properly. A defective pump will not be able to circulate heated coolant through the long heater hose.
Another flow test to help determine pump operation, remove radiator cap.
WARNING: DO NOT remove radiator cap if the cooling system is hot or under pressure.
COOLING SYSTEM FLOW CHECK
To determine whether coolant is flowing through the cooling system, use the following procedures:
(1) If engine is cold, idle engine until normal operating temperature is reached. Then feel the upper radiator hose. If it is hot, coolant is circulating.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE COOLING SYS-
TEM PRESSURE CAP WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS
FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Remove pressure cap when engine is cold, remove small amount of coolant Idle engine until thermostat opens, you should observe coolant flow while looking down the filler neck. Once flow is detected install the pressure cap.
RADIATOR FAN CONTROL
Fan control is accomplished three ways. The fan runs when the air conditioning pressure reaches a set psi see charts below. In addition to this control, the fan is turned on by the temperature of the coolant which is sensed by the coolant temperature sen-
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 17
sor which sends the message to the Engine
Controller. The Engine Controller turns on the fan through the fan relay. On models equipped with automatic transmission, a transmission fluid thermister may have some influences on fan operation. See Wiring Diagrams Manual for circuity and diagnostics provided.
The Power Train Control Module (PCM) provides fan control for the following conditions:
• The fan will not run during cranking until the engine starts no matter what the coolant temperature is.
• Fan will run when the air conditioning clutch is engaged, low pressure cutout switch is closed and once set compressor head pressure is reached. See charts.
•
Fan will run according to the following information charts.
RADIATOR FAN OPERATION—2.0L ENGINE
Radiator Fan Control
A/C Off Low High
Fan On: 104°C
(220°F)
Fan Off: 99°C
(210°F)
A/C On Low
Fan On: 99°C
(210°F)
110°C
(230°F)
104°C
(220°F)
High
110°C
(230°F)
A/C Pressure
Fan Off: 93°C
(200°F)
104°C
(220°F)
EATX Fluid Temperature
Fan On:
Fan Off:
Low
1,466
Kpa
(209 psi)
1,172
Kpa
(170 psi)
Low
Speed
116°C
(240°F)
109°C
(228°F)
High
1,717 Kpa
(249 psi)
1,579 Kpa
(229 psi)
High
Speed
120°C
(248°F)
116°C
(240°F)
7 - 18 COOLING SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
RADIATOR FAN OPERATION—2.4L ENGINE
Radiator Fan Control
A/C Off Low
Fan On: 104°C
(219°F)
Fan Off: 99°C
(210°F)
A/C On Low
Fan On: 99°C
(210°F)
High
110°C
(230°F)
105°C
(221°F)
High
110°C
(230°F)
A/C Pressure
Fan Off: 93°C
(199°F)
EATX Fluid Temperature
Fan On:
Fan Off:
105°C
(221°F)
Low
1,448
Kpa
(210 psi)
1,207
Kpa
(175
Psi)
Low
Speed
118°C
(244°F)
116°C
(240°F)
High
1,718 Kpa
(249 psi)
1,585 Kpa
(229 Psi)
High
Speed
122°C
(252°F)
118°C
(244°F)
RADIATOR FAN OPERATION—2.5L ENGINE
Radiator Fan Control
A/C Off Low High
Fan On: 104°C
(220°F)
Fan Off: 98°C
(208°F)
A/C On Low
Fan On: 99°C
(210°F)
110°C
(230°F)
105°C
(221°F)
High
110°C
(230°F)
Fan Off:
EATX Fluid Temperature
Fan On:
Fan Off:
93°C
(199°F)
105°C
(221°F)
A/C Pressure
Low
1,448
Kpa
(210 psi)
1,207
Kpa
(175 psi)
Low
Speed
118°C
(244°F)
116°C
(240°F)
High
1,718 Kpa
(249 psi)
1,585 kpa
(229 psi)
High
Speed
122°C
(252°F)
118°C
(244°F)
JA
ELECTRIC FAN MOTOR TEST
Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Manual for procedure.
For wiring diagrams of the fan motor systems refer to 8W Wiring Diagrams.
TESTING SYSTEM FOR LEAKS
With engine not running, wipe the coolant filler neck sealing seat clean. The radiator should be full.
Attach a radiator pressure tester to the coolant filler neck, as shown in (Fig. 20) and apply 104 kPa
(15 psi) pressure. If the pressure drops more than 2 psi in 2 minutes inspect all points for external leaks.
All hoses, radiator and heater, should be moved while at 104 kPa (15 psi) since some leaks occur while driving due to engine rock, etc.
Fig. 20 Pressure Testing Cooling System—Typical
If there are no external leaks after the gauge dial shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester. Start engine and run the engine to normal operating temperature in order to open the thermostat and allow the coolant to expand. Re-attach the tester. If the needle on the dial fluctuates it indicates a combustion leak, usually a head gasket leak.
WARNING: WITH TOOL IN PLACE PRESSURE
BUILDS UP FAST. ANY EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF
PRESSURE BUILT UP BY CONTINUOUS ENGINE
OPERATION MUST BE RELEASED TO A SAFE
PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRESSURE TO
EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate, race the engine a few times. If an abnormal amount of coolant or steam is emitted from the tail pipe, it may indicate a faulty head gasket, cracked engine block or cylinder head.
There may be internal leaks which can be determined by removing the oil dip-stick. If water globules appear intermixed with the oil it will indicate a
THERMOSTAT VENT VALVE STAINLESS-STEEL
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued) internal leak in the engine. If there is an internal leak, the engine must be disassembled for repair.
PRESSURE CAP TO FILLER NECK SEAL
PRESSURE RELIEF CHECK
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure relief can be checked by removing the overflow hose at the radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 21). Attach the radiator pressure tester to the filler neck nipple, and pump air into the system. The pressure cap upper gasket should relieve pressure at 69-124 kPa
(10-18 psi), and hold pressure at 55 kPa (8 psi) minimum.
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS DO NOT OPEN
HOT ON THE PRESSURE CAP IS A SAFETY PRE-
CAUTION. WHEN HOT, THE COOLING SYSTEM
BUILDS UP PRESSURE. TO PREVENT SCALDING
OR OTHER INJURY, THE PRESSURE CAP SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM IS HOT
AND/OR UNDER PRESSURE.
PRESSURE CAP
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 19
PRESSURE TESTING COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE CAP
Dip the pressure cap in water; clean off any deposits on the vent valve or its seat, and apply the cap to end of radiator pressure tester (Fig. 22). Working the plunger, increase the pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on the gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold pressure of at least 97 kPa (14 psi), replace the cap.
CAUTION: The radiator pressure tester is very sensitive to small air leaks that will not cause cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does not have a history of coolant loss should not be replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested with this tool. Add water to the tool. Turn the tool upside down, and recheck the pressure cap to confirm that the cap is faulty.
If the pressure cap tests properly while positioned the on radiator pressure tester, but will not hold pressure or vacuum when positioned on the filler neck, inspect the filler neck and cap top gasket for irregularities that may prevent the cap from sealing properly.
Fig. 21 Cooling System Pressure Cap toFiller Neck
There is no need to remove the pressure cap at any time except for the following purposes:
• Check and adjust coolant freeze point
• Refill system with new coolant
• Conducting service procedures
• Checking for leaks
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN
RECENTLY, WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
CAP. PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP, AND
WITHOUT PUSHING DOWN, ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS
TO ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE.
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS, PUSH DOWN ON THE CAP AND REMOVE
IT COMPLETELY.
SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR
INLET HOSE WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK
PRESSURE) BEFORE AND AFTER TURNING TO
THE FIRST STOP IS RECOMMENDED.
Fig. 22 Pressure Testing Radiator Cap
LOW COOLANT LEVEL AERATION
Low coolant level in a cross flow radiator will equalize in both tanks with engine off. With engine at running operating temperature the high pressure inlet tank runs full and the low pressure outlet tank drops. If this level drops below the top of the transmission oil cooler, air will be sucked into the water pump:
• Transmission oil will become hotter.
• High reading shown on the temperature gauge.
• Air in the coolant will also cause loss of flow through the heater.
• Exhaust gas leaks into the coolant can also cause the same problems.
7 - 20 COOLING SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
DEAERATION
Air can only be removed from the system by gathering under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it will be pushed past the pressure cap into the CRS tank by thermal expansion of the coolant. It then escapes to the atmosphere in the CRS tank and is replaced with solid coolant on cool down.
JA
TEMPERATURE GAUGE INDICATION
At idle the temperature gauge could rise slowly to about 1/2 gauge travel. The fan will come on and the gauge could drop to about 1/3 gauge travel, this is normal.
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS
Satisfactory performance of the belt driven accessories depends on belt condition and proper belt tension.
Condition
INSUFFICIENT ACCESSORY
OUTPUT DUE TO BELT
SLIPPAGE
Possible Cause
(a) Belt too loose.
Correction
(a) Adjust belt tension
BELT SQUEAL WHEN
ACCELERATING ENGINE
(b) Belt excessive glazed or worn.
(a) Belts too loose.
(b) Replace and tighten as specified
(a) Adjust belt tension.
BELT CHIRP AT IDLE
BELT ROLLED OVER IN GROOVE
OR BELT JUMPS OFF
(b) Belts glazed
(a) Belts too loose.
(b) Replace belts.
(a) Adjust belt tension.
(b) Dirt and paint imbedded in belt.
(b) Replace belt.
(c) Non-uniform belt.
(d) Misaligned pulleys.
(e) Non-uniform groove or eccentric pulley.
(a) Broken cord in belt.
(c) Replace belt.
(d) Align accessories.
(e) Replace pulley.
(a) Replace belt.
(b) Belt too loose, or too tight.
(c) Misaligned pulleys.
(d) Non-uniform grooves or eccentric pulley.
(b) Adjust belt tension.
(c) Align accessories.
(d) Replace pulley.
DRAIN
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
If unit does not operate, trouble can be in either the power cord or the heater element. Test power cord for continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or 110volt test light; test heater element continuity with an ohmmeter or 12-volt test light.
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 21
Check governmental regulations for disposal of used engine coolant.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
ROUTINE COOLANT LEVEL CHECK
Do not remove radiator cap for routine coolant level inspections.
The coolant reserve system provides a quick visual method for determining the coolant level without removing the radiator cap. Simply observe, with the engine idling and warmed up to normal operating temperature, that the level of the coolant in the reserve tank is between the minimum and maximum marks.
ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANT
NOTE: The radiator cap should not be removed.
When additional coolant is needed, it should be added to the coolant reserve tank. Use only 50/50 concentration of ethylene glycol type antifreeze and water
SERVICING COOLANT LEVEL
NOTE: The cooling system is closed and designed to maintain coolant level to the top of the radiator.
When servicing requires a coolant level check in the radiator, the engine must be off and not under pressure. Drain several ounces of coolant from the radiator drain cock while observing the Coolant
Recovery System (CRS) Tank. Coolant level in the
CRS tank should drop slightly. Then remove the radiator cap. The radiator should be full to the top. If not, and the coolant level in the CRS tank is at the
ADD mark there is a air leak in the CRS system.
Check hose or hose connections to the CRS tank, radiator filler neck or the pressure cap seal to the radiator filler neck for leaks.
DRAINING COOLING SYSTEM
NOTE: Drain, flush, and fill the cooling system at the mileage or time intervals specified in the Maintenance Schedule in this Group. If the solution is dirty or rusty or contains a considerable amount of sediment, clean and flush with a reliable cooling system cleaner. Care should be taken in disposing of the used engine coolant from your vehicle.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE COOLING SYS-
TEM PRESSURE CAP OR OPEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK, WHEN SYSTEM IS HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
To drain cooling system move temperature selector for heater to full heat with engine running (to provide vacuum for actuation). Without removing radiator pressure cap and with system not
under pressure, Shut engine off and open draincock
(Fig. 23). The coolant reserve tank should empty first, then remove radiator pressure cap. (if not, see
Testing Cooling System for leaks).
NOTE: To open draincock on vehicle equipped with
2.5L engine, use a 3/8 inch drive extension 3” long, a 19mm socket with universal.
Fig. 23 Draincock—Typical
REFILLING COOLING SYSTEM
First clean system to remove old glycol, see Cooling
System Cleaning.
Fill system using antifreeze described in Coolant section. Fill 50 percent of capacity with 100 percent glycol. Then complete filling system with water. The thermostats in the these engines allow air flow to through them.
Continue filling system until full, this provides better heater performance. Be careful not to spill coolant on drive belts or the generator.
Fill coolant reserve system to at least the FULL
HOT mark with 50/50 solution. It may be necessary to add coolant to the reserve tank to maintain coolant level between the FULL HOT and ADD mark after three or four warm-up, cool down cycles and trapped air has been removed.
CYLINDER BLOCK
7 - 22 COOLING SYSTEM
PUMP BODY IMPELLER PUMP BODY O-RING
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
WATER PUMP—2.0/2.4L ENGINES
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on a hoist. Remove right inner splash shield.
(2) Remove accessory drive belts and power steering pump. Refer to Accessory Drive Belt service of this section.
(3) Drain cooling system. Refer to Draining Cooling System in this group.
(4) Support engine from the bottom and remove right engine mount.
(5) Remove power steering pump bracket bolts and set pump and bracket assembly aside. Power steering lines do not need to be disconnected.
(6) Remove right engine mount bracket.
(7) Remove timing belt. Refer to Group 9, Engine for procedure.
(8) Remove inner timing belt cover.
(9) Remove water pump attaching screws to engine
(Fig. 24).
Fig. 24 Water Pump
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new O-ring gasket in water pump body
O-ring groove (Fig. 25).
CAUTION: Make sure O-ring is properly seated in water pump groove before tightening screws. An improperly located O-ring may cause damage to the
O-ring and cause a coolant leak.
Fig. 25 Water Pump Body
(2) Assemble pump body to block and tighten screws to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) (Fig. 24). Pressurize cooling system to 15 psi with pressure tester and check water pump shaft seal and O-ring for leaks.
(3) Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of movement.
(4) Install inner timing belt cover.
(5) Install timing belt. Refer to Group 9, Engine and Reassemble engine.
(6) Install right engine mount bracket and engine mount. Refer to Group 9, for procedure.
(7) Fill cooling system. Refer to Filling Cooling
System for procedure outlined in this group.
(8) Install power steering pump and accessory drive belts, Refer to Accessory Drive Belts, in this
Group.
GASKET O-RING WATER PIPE
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
WATER PUMP—2.5L ENGINE
REMOVAL
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 23
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean all gasket and O-ring surfaces on pump and water pipe inlet tube.
(2) Install new O-ring on water inlet pipe (Fig. 28).
Wet the O-ring with water to facilitate assembly.
CAUTION: Keep the O-ring free of oil or grease.
Fig. 26 Water Pump—2.5L Engine
(1) Drain cooling system. Refer to Draining Cooling System in this group.
(2) Remove mounting bolts.
(3) Separate pump from water inlet pipe (Fig. 27) and remove pump (Fig. 26).
Fig. 28 Water Pipe O-Ring
(3) Install new gasket on water pump and install pump inlet opening over water pipe, press assembly to cause water pipe insertion into pump housing.
(4) Install pump to block mounting bolts and tighten to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.).
(5) See Group 9, Engine and install timing belt.
Reassemble engine.
(6) Fill cooling system. See Refilling Cooling System.
(7) Install accessory drive belts. Refer to Accessory
Drive Belts, in this Group for procedure.
Fig. 27 Water Pump Inlet Tube
7 - 24
WATER PUMP INLET
TUBE
O-RING
COOLING SYSTEM
VENT THERMOSTAT
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE—2.0/2.4L ENGINES
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system. Refer to procedure outlined in this section.
(2) Remove upper radiator hose to access the hose connections at the inlet tube.
(3) Remove lower radiator hose and heater hose from the inlet tube (Fig. 29).
(4) Remove the 2 fasteners from that hold the inlet tube to the block.
(4) Connect lower radiator hose and heater hose to inlet tube (Fig. 29).
(5) Install upper radiator hose.
(6) Fill cooling system. Refer to procedure outlined in this section.
THERMOSTAT
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system to the thermostat level or below.
(2) Remove coolant recovery system (CRS) hose and thermostat/engine outlet connector bolts (Fig. 31) and (Fig. 32) 2.0/2.4L Engines. 2.5L engine remove inlet hose and coolant elbow from thermostat housing
(Fig. 33).
(3) Remove thermostat assembly, and clean sealing surfaces.
Fig. 29 Water Pump Inlet Tube Hose Connections
(5) Rotate tube while removing the tube from the engine block (Fig. 30).
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect the O-ring for damage before installing the tube into the cylinder block (Fig. 30).
(2) Lube O-ring with coolant and install into the cylinder block opening.
(3) Install 2 fasteners and tighten to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).
Fig. 31 Thermostat/Engine Outlet Connector—
2.0LEngine
Fig. 30 Water Pump Inlet Tube—Service
Fig. 32 Thermostat and Engine Outlet Connector—
2.4LEngine
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
RADIATOR
REMOVAL
VIEW A
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 25
Fig. 33 Thermostat, Housing and Inlet Elbow—
2.5LEngine
INSTALLATION
(1) Place the new thermostat assembly into the engine outlet connector. Align air bleed with notch on the cylinder head.
(2) Install engine outlet connector onto cylinder head and tighten bolts to 12.5 N·m (110 in. lbs.).
Connect the coolant recovery system (CRS) hose.
(3) Fill cooling system. Refer to Refilling System outlined in this section.
INSTALLATION—2.5L ENGINE
Install thermostat into the recess in the thermostat housing. Install inlet elbow and tighten the bolts to
12 N·m (133 in. lbs.) (Fig. 33).
Fig. 34 Cooling Module Mounting
(1) Disconnect negative cable from auxiliary jumper terminal. Remove air inlet resonator. Refer to
Group 14, Fuel System for procedure.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK PLUG OR THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
(2) Drain cooling system. Refer to Draining Cooling System of this section.
(3) Remove upper radiator crossmember (Fig. 34).
Refer to Group 23, Body for procedure.
CAUTION: Plastic tanks, while stronger then brass are subject to damage by impact, such as wrenches.
(4) Remove hose clamps and hoses from the radiator.
(5) Disconnect automatic transmission hoses from cooler and plug off.
(6) Disconnect the fan wiring connector.
(7) Disconnect the engine block heater wire, if equipped.
AIR CONDITIONING CONDENSER TO DRAIN
7 - 26 COOLING SYSTEM
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
CAUTION: Avoid bending the condenser inlet tube.
Care should be taken not to damage radiator or condenser cooling fins or water tubes during removal.
(8) Remove the air conditioning condenser attaching screws located at the front of the radiator (Fig.
35), if equipped. It is not necessary to discharge the air conditioning system to remove radiator.
(7) Install upper radiator crossmember. Refer to
Group 23, Body for procedure.
(8) Connect negative cable from auxiliary jumper terminal.
(9) Fill cooling system with coolant. Refer to Refilling Cooling System in this group.
(10) Operate engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Check cooling system and automatic transmission for correct fluid levels.
RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Plastic tanks, while stronger then brass are subject to damage by impact, such as wrenches.
(1) Turn the drain cock stem counterclockwise to unscrew the stem. When the stem is unscrewed to the end of the threads, pull the stem (Fig. 36) from the radiator tank.
NOTE: To open draincock on vehicle equipped with
2.5L engine, use a 3/8 inch drive extension 3” long, a 19mm socket with universal.
Fig. 35 A/C Condenser to Radiator MountingScrews
(9) Radiator can now be lifted free from engine compartment. Care should be taken not to dam- age radiator cooling fins or water tubes during removal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide radiator and fan module down into position, seat the radiator assembly lower rubber isolators in the mount holes provided.
(2) Attach air conditioning condenser to radiator, if equipped. Tighten mounting screws to 5 N·m (45 in.
lbs.).
(3) Connect engine block heater wire, if equipped.
(4) Connect lower radiator hose and clamp. Connect automatic transmission hoses; tighten hose clamps to 2.5 N·m (22 in. lbs.).
(5) Connect fan motor electrical connection.
(6) Install upper radiator hose. Align hose so it does not interfere with the accessory drive belt or engine. Position hose clamp so it will not interfere with the hood liner.
Fig. 36 Draincock—Typical
INSTALLATION
(1) Push the draincock assembly body into the tank opening until it snaps into place.
(2) Tighten the draincock stem by turning clockwise to 2.0-2.7 N·m (18-25 in. lbs.) torque.
RETAINING CLIP
FAN
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
RADIATOR FAN, MOTOR AND SHROUD
FAN SERVICE
There are no repairs to be made to the fan. If the fan is warped, cracked, or otherwise damaged, it must be replaced with only the recommended part for adequate strength, performance and safety.
(1) To remove fan from motor shaft, bench support the motor and motor shaft, while removing the fan retaining clip, so that the shaft and motor will not be damaged by excessive force. Surface burr removal may be required to remove fan from motor
shaft (Fig. 37). Do not permit the fan blades to touch the bench.
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 27
FAN SHROUD
All vehicles have fan shrouds to improve fan air flow efficiency.
The shroud supports the electric fan motor and fan. For removal and installation procedures, refer to
Radiator Section.
FAN MOTOR SERVICE
(1) Remove the motor fasteners from support.
Remove motor from support.
(2) Reverse the above procedure for Installation.
Tighten the short fan motor fasteners to 3 N·m (25 in. lbs.) and tighten the tall fan motor fasteners to 5
N·m (45 in. lbs.).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install assembly to radiator. Torque shroud to radiator fasteners to 7.5 N·m (65 in. lbs.).
(2) Connect fan motor lead. For wiring diagrams of fan motor systems Refer to 8W Wiring Dia-
grams .
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
REMOVAL
(1) Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block.
Refer to Cooling System Drain, Clean, Flush and
Refill of this section for procedure.
(2) Detach power cord plug from heater.
(3) Loosen screw in center of heater. Remove heater assembly.
Fig. 37 Radiator Fan—Servicing
(2) To install fan on motor shaft, slide the fan over shaft. Support motor and shaft as above while installing fan retaining clip.
Fan Module
BLOCK HEATER FWD
7 - 28 COOLING SYSTEM
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean core hole and heater seat
(Fig. 38).
(2) Insert heater assembly with electrical connector position at the top of the core hole.
(3) With heater seated, tighten center screw securely to assure a positive seal.
(4) Fill cooling system with coolant to the proper level, vent air, and inspect for leaks. Pressurize system with Radiator Pressure Tool before looking for leaks.
The power cord must be secured in its retainer clips, and not positioned so it could contact linkages or exhaust manifolds and become damaged.
Fig. 38 Engine Block Heaters
AIR CONDITIONING 1/2 INCH
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS—2.0/2.4L ENGINES
AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR AND
GENERATOR BELT
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 29
POWER STEERING PUMP BELT
(1) From the top of the vehicle loosen pivot bolt C.
(2) From under the vehicle loosen locking bolts D and E (Fig. 40).
Accessory Drive Belt System—AllEngines
(1) Loosen T-Bolt locking nut A and pivot bolt B to remove and install Poly V belt and/or adjust belt tension (Fig. 39).
(2) Tighten adjusting bolt to adjust belt tension to specification shown in belt tension chart (Fig. 43).
(3) Tighten T-Bolt locking nut A and pivot bolt B to
54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 39).
Fig. 40 Power Steering Belt Adjustment
(3) Install the belt. Adjust belt tension with 1/2 in.
breaker bar installed in adjusting bracket. See tension specification in chart (Fig. 43).
(4) Tighten locking bolt D to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
(Fig. 40).
(5) Tighten locking bolt E and the pivot bolt C to
54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Fig. 39 Air Conditioning Compressor and
GeneratorBelt Adjustment
LOCKING BOLT ADJUSTINGBOLT 1/2
7 - 30 COOLING SYSTEM
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT—2.5L ENGINE
JA
(5) Tighten locking bolt F and the pivot bolt to 54
N·m (40 ft. lbs.).
AIR CONDITIONING BELT AND GENERATOR
BELT
To remove and install the air conditioning compressor and generator drive belt, first loosen the idler pulley lock bolt, then turn the adjusting screw to increase or decrease the idler pulley tension (Fig. 41).
To adjust the air conditioning and generator drive belt, loosen the idler pulley bolt (Fig. 41) and adjust belt tension by turning adjusting screw (Fig. 41).
Tighten pulley bolt to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) after adjustment.
Fig. 41 Air Conditioning Compressor and
GeneratorBelt Idler
POWER STEERING PUMP BELT
(1) From the top of the vehicle loosen pivot bolt
(Fig. 42).
(2) From under the vehicle loosen the locking bolts
F and G (Fig. 42).
(3) Install the belt. Adjust belt tension with 1/2 in.
breaker bar installed in adjusting bracket (Fig. 42).
See tension specification in chart (Fig. 43).
(4) Tighten locking bolt G to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
(Fig. 42).
Fig. 42 Power Steering Belt Adjustment
ACCESSORY DRIVE
BELT
2.0/2.4L ENGINE
AIR CONDITIONING
COMPRESSOR/
GENERATOR
POWER STEERING
PUMP
2.5L ENGINE
AIR CONDITIONING
COMPRESSOR/
GENERATOR
POWER STEERING
PUMP
GAUGE
NEW 150 LB.
USED 80 LB.
NEW 130 LB.
USED 80 LB.
NEW 150 LB.
USED 80 LB.
NEW 130 LB.
USED 80 LB.
Fig. 43 Belt Tension Chart
PUMP
JA
NORMAL
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 31
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
WATER PUMP—2.0/2.4L ENGINES
Replace water pump body assembly if it has any of these defects:
(1) Cracks or damage on the body.
(2) Coolant leaks from the shaft seal, evident by coolant traces on the pump body.
(3) Loose or rough turning bearing.
(4) Impeller rubs either the pump body or the engine block.
(5) Impeller loose or damaged.
(6) Sprocket or sprocket flange loose or damaged.
WATER PUMP—2.5L ENGINE
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT INSPECTION
Belt replacement under any or all of the following conditions is required, excessive wear, frayed cords or severe glazing.
Poly-V-Belt system with back drive pulley may develop minor cracks across the ribbed side (due to reverse bending). These minor cracks are considered normal and acceptable. Cracks parallel are not (Fig.
45).
NOTE: Do not use any type of belt dressing or restorer on Poly-V-Belt and V-Belt
Fig. 44 Water Pump Inspection
Replace the water pump if it has any of the following defects:
• Damage or cracks on the pump body.
• Coolant leaks, if the shaft seal is leaking, evident by traces of coolant leaks from vent hole A in
(Fig. 44).
•
Impeller rubs inside of pump.
•
Excessively loose or rough turning bearing.
Fig. 45 Drive Belt Wear Pattern
COOLING SYSTEM CAP
Hold the cap in your hand, right side up (Fig. 46).
The vent valve at the bottom of the cap should open.
If the rubber gasket has swollen, preventing the valve from opening, replace the cap.
Hold the cleaned cap in your hand, upside down.
If any light can be seen between vent valve and the rubber gasket, replace the cap. Do not use a replacement cap that has a spring to hold the vent shut.
THERMOSTAT VENT VALVE STAINLESS-STEEL
7 - 32 COOLING SYSTEM
CLEANING AND INSPECTION (Continued)
A replacement cap must be of the type designed for coolant reserve systems. This design ensures coolant return to the radiator.
Fig. 46 Cooling System Pressure Cap
CLEANING COOLING SYSTEM
Drain cooling system (see: Draining Cooling Sys-
tem ) and refill with clean water (see: Refilling
Cooling System ). Run engine with radiator cap installed until upper radiator hose is hot. Stop engine and drain water from system. If water is dirty, fill, run and drain system again until water runs clear.
RADIATOR FLUSHING
Drain cooling system and remove radiator hoses from engine. Install suitable flushing gun in radiator lower hose. Fill radiator with clean water and turn on air in short blasts.
CAUTION: Internal radiator pressure must not exceed 138 kPa (20 psi) as damage to radiator may result. Continue this procedure until water runs clear.
ENGINE FLUSHING
Drain radiator (see: Draining Cooling System ) and remove hoses from radiator. Remove engine thermostat and reinstall thermostat housing. A gasket may be needed to seal the housing to cylinder head because the seal is part of thermostat. Install suitable flushing gun to thermostat housing hose. Turn on water, and when engine is filled, turn on air, but no higher than 138 kPa (20 psi) in short blasts. Allow engine to fill between blasts of air. Continue this procedure until water runs clean. Install thermostat and fill cooling system. Refer to Refilling Cooling Sys-
tem ) for procedure.
JA
REVERSE FLUSHING
Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forcing of water through the cooling system, using air pressure in a direction opposite to that of the normal flow of water. This is only necessary with dirty systems and evidence of partial plugging.
CHEMICAL CLEANING
One type of corrosion encountered with aluminum cylinder heads is aluminum hydroxide deposits. Corrosion products are carried to the radiator and deposited when cooled off. They appear as dark grey when wet and white when dry. This corrosion can be removed with a two part cleaner (oxalic acid and neutralizer) available in auto parts outlets. Follow manufacturers directions for use.
ADJUSTMENTS
BELT TENSION GAUGE METHOD
For conventional belts and Poly-V belts, use belt tensioning Special Tool Kit C-4162 to obtain proper belt tension.
Adjust the belt tension for a New or Used belt as prescribed in the Belt Tension Chart (Fig. 47).
ACCESSORY DRIVE
BELT
2.0/2.4L ENGINE
AIR CONDITIONING
COMPRESSOR/
GENERATOR
POWER STEERING
PUMP
2.5L ENGINE
AIR CONDITIONING
COMPRESSOR/
GENERATOR
POWER STEERING
PUMP
Fig. 47 Belt Tension Chart
GAUGE
NEW 150 LB.
USED 80 LB.
NEW 130 LB.
USED 80 LB.
NEW 150 LB.
USED 80 LB.
NEW 130 LB.
USED 80 LB.
JA
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 33
SPECIFICATIONS
COOLING SYSTEM CAPACITY
ENGINE
(COOLANT)
*
CAPACITY
LITERS
U.S. QTS.
8.0
8.5
2.0L
8.5
9.0
2.4L
2.5L
10.0
10.5
*CAPACITY, Includes Heater and Coolant Recovery
System
TORQUE
Description Torque
A/C Condenser to
Radiator (All) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 N·m (45 in. lbs.)
Thermostat Housing
Bolt 2.0/2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . 12.5 N·m (110 in. lbs.)
2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 N·m (168 in. lbs.)
Water Pump Mounting
Bolts 2.0/2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 N·m (17 in. lbs.)
Water Pump Inlet
Tube toEngine Block
Mounting Bolts . . . . . . . . . . 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Water Pump Inlet
Pipe (Bracketto Cylinder Head
Screws)—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . 14 N·m (123 in. lbs.)
Fan Module to Radiator (All) . . . . 7 N·m (65 in. lbs.)
Short Fan Motor to Shroud
Retaining Screws . . . . . . . . . . . 3 N·m (25 in. lbs.)
Tall Fan Motor to Shroud
Retaining Screws . . . . . . . . . . . 7 N·m (65 in. lbs.)
Transmission Oil Cooler
Hose Clamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 N·m (18 in. lbs.)
SPECIAL TOOLS
COOLING
Accessory Drive Belt Tension GaugeC-4162
JA
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 1
COOLING SYSTEM
GENERAL INFORMATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLERS
. . 7
COOLANT RECOVERY SYSTEM (CRS) . . . . . . . 4
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
. . . . . . . . 6
COOLING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
ENGINE THERMOSTATS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
EXTERNAL TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER—
2.5L ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
RADIATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
WATER PIPES—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE— 2.0/2.4L
ENGINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
WATER PUMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
COOLANT PERFORMANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
. . . . . . . . 8
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
RADIATOR HOSES AND CLAMPS . . . . . . . . . . . 8
THERMOSTAT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
. . . . . . . . . 10
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
. . . . . . . . . . . 11
. . . . . . . . . 17
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
ELECTRIC FAN MOTOR TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
. . . . . . . . . . 17
. . . . . . . . . 19
PRESSURE CAP TO FILLER NECK SEAL
PRESSURE RELIEF CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
PRESSURE TESTING COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE CAP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
CONTENTS page page
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
. . . . . . . 20
TESTING SYSTEM FOR LEAKS . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
SERVICE PROCEDURES
ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANT . . . . . . . . . . . 21
. . . . . . . . . . . . 21
REFILLING COOLING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
. . . . . . . . 21
SERVICING COOLANT LEVEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS—2.0/2.4L
ENGINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT—2.5L ENGINE . . . . 30
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
RADIATOR FAN, MOTOR AND SHROUD . . . . . 27
RADIATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
THERMOSTAT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE—2.0/2.4L
ENGINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
. . . . . . . . . 22
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT INSPECTION . . . . . 31
CHEMICAL CLEANING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
CLEANING COOLING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
RADIATOR FLUSHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
. . . . . . . . . 31
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
ADJUSTMENTS
BELT TENSION GAUGE METHOD . . . . . . . . . . 32
SPECIFICATIONS
. . . . . . . . . . . . 33
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
SPECIAL TOOLS
COOLING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
7 - 2
RADIATOR
COOLING SYSTEM
ENGINE
JA
GENERAL INFORMATION
COOLING SYSTEM
Throughout this group, references may be made to a particular vehicle by letter or number designation.
A chart showing the breakdown of these designations is included in the Introduction Section at the front of this service manual.
The cooling system consists of an engine cooling module, thermostat, coolant, a water pump to circulate the coolant. The engine cooling module may consist of a radiator, electric fan motor, shroud, radiator pressure cap, coolant reserve system, transmission oil cooler, hoses, clamps, air condition condenser, transmission oil lines and charge air cooler.
•
When Engine is cold: Thermostat is closed, cooling system has no flow through the radiator. The coolant bypass flows through the engine and heater core.
• When Engine is warm: Thermostat is open, cooling system has bypass flow and coolant flow through radiator and heater core.
Its primary purpose is to maintain engine temperature in a range that will provide satisfactory engine performance and emission levels under all expected driving conditions. It also provides hot water (coolant) for heater performance and cooling for automatic transmission oil. It does this by transferring heat from engine metal to coolant, moving this heated coolant to the radiator, and then transferring this heat to the ambient air.
Coolant flow circuits for 2.0L and 2.4L engine equipped vehicles are shown in (Fig. 1). The 2.5L
engine coolant routing is shown in (Fig. 2).
WATER PIPES—2.5L
The 2.5L engine use metal piping beyond the lower radiator hose to route coolant to the suction side of water pump, located in the V of the cylinder banks.
The pipes are also provided with inlet nipples for thermostat bypass and heater return coolant hoses, and brackets for rigid engine attachment. The pipes employ O-rings for sealing at their interconnection and to the water pump (Fig. 3).
Fig. 1 Cooling System Operation—2.0Land 2.4L Engines
RECOVERY HEATER TUBES O-RING HOUSING
JA
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
DAMPER THERMOSTAT HOUSING COMPRESSOR
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 3
Fig. 2 Cooling System Operation—2.5LEngine
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS
The engine is equipped with 2 drive belts. One belt drives the power steering pump, the other drives the generator and air conditioning. (Fig. 4)
Fig. 3 Engine Inlet Coolant Pipes—2.5LEngine
Fig. 4 Drive Belts—All Engines
VENT THERMOSTAT
7 - 4 COOLING SYSTEM
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
COOLANT RECOVERY SYSTEM (CRS)
This system works in conjunction with the pressure cap to utilize thermal expansion and contraction of the coolant to keep the coolant free of trapped air.
It provides a volume for expansion and contraction, provides a convenient and safe method for checking coolant level and adjusting level at atmospheric pressure without removing the pressure cap. It also provides some reserve coolant to cover minor leaks and evaporation or boiling losses.
All vehicles are equipped with this system (Fig. 5).
JA
ENGINE THERMOSTATS
The 2.0 and 2.4L engine thermostats are located on the front of the engine (radiator side) in the thermostat housing/engine outlet connector (Fig. 6) and (Fig.
7). The thermostat has a air bleed located in the flange and a o-ring with a locating dimple incorporate on it. There is a relief in the cylinder head for locating the air bleed.
Fig. 6 Thermostat/Engine Outlet Connector—
2.0LEngine
Fig. 5 Coolant Recovery System
See Coolant Level Check Service, Deaeration and
Pressure Cap sections for operation and service.
Vehicles equipped with the electric monitor system use a level sensor in the CRS tank, see Group 8E
Electrical for service.
Fig. 7 Thermostat and Engine Outlet Connector—
2.4LEngine
JA
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
The 2.5L engine thermostat is located in a thermostat housing, located below the throttle body. This thermostat has an air bleed valve, located in the thermostat flange (Fig. 8).
WATERPUMP INLET PIPE GASKET
COOLING SYSTEM
O-RING
7 - 5
The water pump is driven by the timing belt. See
Timing System in Group 9, Engine for component removal providing access to water pump.
Fig. 8 Thermostat, Housing and Inlet Elbow—
2.5LEngine
WATER PUMP
The water pump body is made of aluminum with a steel impeller. The water pump is bolted to the front of the block, and driven by the timing belt. The water pump is the heart of the cooling system, pumping the coolant through the engine block, cylinder head, heater core, and radiator.
NOTE: The water pump on all models can be replaced without discharging the air conditioning system.
WATER PUMP—2.5L ENGINE
The 2.5L pump bolts directly to the engine block, using a gasket for pump to block sealing (Fig. 9). The pump is serviced as a unit.
Fig. 9 Water Pump—2.5LEngine
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE— 2.0/2.4L ENGINES
The inlet tube connects the water pump to the radiator and heater core. This tube is sealed by a o-ring and held in place by fasteners to the block.
COOLANT
The cooling system is designed around the coolant.
The coolant must accept heat from engine metal, in the cylinder head area near the exhaust valves. Then carry this heat to the radiator where the tube/fin assemblies of these components can give off the heat to the air.
COOLANT REPLACEMENT
Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance for schedule.
NIPPLE OIL VENT VALVE STAINLESS-STEEL
7 - 6 COOLING SYSTEM
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE CAP
The cooling system is equipped with a pressure cap that releases pressure at some point within a range of 97-124 kPa (14-18 psi) (Fig. 10).
The system will operate at higher than atmospheric pressure, which raises the coolant boiling point, allowing increased radiator cooling capacity.
There is a vent valve in the center of the cap that allows a small coolant flow to the CRS tank. If the valve is stuck shut, the radiator hoses will collapse on cool-down. Clean the vent valve (Fig.
10) to ensure proper sealing when boiling point is reached.
DRAIN
JA
There is a gasket in the cap that seals to the top of the filler neck so that vacuum is maintained to draw coolant back into the system from the coolant reserve system tank.
RADIATOR
The radiators are cross flow types (horizontal tubes) with design features that provide greater strength as well as sufficient heat transfer capabilities to keep the engine satisfactorily cooled (Fig. 11).
CAUTION: Plastic tanks, while stronger then brass are subject to damage by impact, such as wrenches.
Fig. 10 Cooling System Pressure Cap toFiller Neck
Fig. 11 Radiator Module
EXTERNAL TUBE NUTS
JA
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM FANS
All models use electric motor driven cooling system fans. The fan modules include a motor support and shroud. The module is fastened to the radiator by bolts (Fig. 12).
All fan motors are two speed. Attempts to reduce high temperature gauge reading by increasing engine speed, at the same vehicle speed, can increase high temperature.
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 7
EXTERNAL TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER—2.5L
ENGINE
Is a external oil-to-air type mounted ahead of the cooling module (Fig. 14). This style cooler uses steel tube and rubber oil lines to feed oil from the internal cooler to the external and then to the automatic transmission. Use only approved transmission oil cooler hose. Since these are molded to fit space available, molded hoses are recommended.
Fig. 12 Fan Module
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLERS
Oil coolers are internal oil to coolant type, mounted in the radiator left tank (Fig. 13). Rubber oil lines feed the oil cooler and the automatic transmission.
Use only approved transmission oil cooler hose. Since these are molded to fit space available, molded hoses are recommended. Tighten Oil Cooler Hose Clamps to 2 N·m (18 in. lbs.).
Fig. 14 Transmission Oil Cooler—2.5LEngine
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
On all models an engine block heater is available as an optional accessory. The heater, operated by ordinary house current (110 Volt A.C.) through a power cord and connector behind the radiator grille.
Refer to Description and Operation in this section for more information.
Fig. 13 Transmission Oil Cooler—2.4LEngine
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
THERMOSTAT
The engine cooling thermostats are wax pellet driven, reverse poppet choke type. They are designed to provide the fastest warm up possible by preventing leakage through them and to guarantee a minimum engine operating temperature of 88 to 93°C
(192 to 199°F). They also automatically reach wide open so they do not restrict flow to the radiator as temperature of the coolant rises in hot weather to around 104°C (220°F). Above this temperature the coolant temperature is controlled by the radiator, fan, and ambient temperature, not the thermostat.
THERMOSTAT VENT VALVE STAINLESS-STEEL
7 - 8 COOLING SYSTEM
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled container (pellet) which is sealed so that when heated to a predetermined temperature. The wax expands enough to overcome the closing spring and water pump pressure, which forces the valve to open. Coolant leakage into the pellet will cause a thermostat to fail open. Do not attempt to free up a thermostat with a screwdriver.
COOLANT PERFORMANCE
Performance is measurable. For heat transfer pure water absorbs 1 btu for each degree of temperature rise for each pound of water. This formula is altered when necessary additives to control boiling, freezing, and corrosion are added as follows:
•
Pure Water (1 btu) boils at 100°C (212°F) and freezes at 0°C (32°F).
•
100 Percent ethylene glycol (.7 btu) can cause an engine to run hot, cause detonation, and will freeze at -22°C (-8°F).
• 50/50 Ethylene Glycol and Distilled Water (.82
btu) is the recommended combination that provides a freeze point of -37°C (-35°F). The radiator, water pump, engine water jacket, radiator pressure cap, thermostat, temperature gauge, coolant sensor and heater are all designed for 50/50 ethylene glycol.
Where required, a 56 percent glycol and 44 percent water mixture will provide a freeze point of -46°C
(-50°F).
COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE CAP
The cooling system is equipped with a pressure cap that releases built up pressure, maintaining a range of 97-124 kPa (14-18 psi).
The cooling system will operate at higher than atmospheric pressure. The higher pressure raises the coolant boiling point thus, allowing increased radiator cooling capacity.
There is also a vent valve in the center of the cap.
This valve also opens when coolant is cooling and contracting allowing coolant to return to radiator from coolant reserve system tank by vacuum through connecting hose. If valve is stuck shut, the radia- tor hoses will be collapsed on cool down. Clean the vent valve (Fig. 15) to ensure proper sealing when boiling point is reached.
The gasket in the cap seals the filler neck, so that vacuum can be maintained, allowing coolant to be drawn back into the radiator from the reserve tank.
NOTE: Richer mixtures cannot be measured with field equipment and can lead to problems associated with 100 percent glycol. If there is doubt that the coolant mixture is to rich for field equipment to measure, put a sample in a clean container. Add exactly the same amount of water and retest. If the coolant in the vehicle is 100% antifreeze, the diluted sample will read 50%. If the coolant in the vehicle was 70% antifreeze and 30% water, the diluted sample will read as 35%, etc.
Fig. 15 Cooling System Pressure Cap
RADIATOR HOSES AND CLAMPS
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN
RECENTLY, WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE WORKING
ON VEHICLE. RELIEVE PRESSURE BY PLACING A
SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP AND WITHOUT
PUSHING DOWN ROTATE IT COUNTERCLOCKWISE
TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS TO ESCAPE
THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE AND WHEN THE
SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING OUT COOLANT AND
STEAM AND THE PRESSURE DROPS CONTINUE
SERVICE.
SELECTION AND ADDITIVES
The use of aluminum cylinder heads, intake manifolds, and water pumps requires special corrosion protection. Mopar Antifreeze or their equivalent are recommended for best engine cooling without corrosion. When mixed only to a freeze point of -37°C
(-35°F) to -59°C (-50°F). If it looses color or becomes contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh properly mixed solution.
CAUTION: Do not use well water, or suspected water supply in cooling system. A 50/50 ethylene glycol and distilled water mix is recommended.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAM. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
HOSE CLAMP TOOL HOSECLAMP
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement is necessary, use only a original equipment clamp with matching number or letter.
The hose clamps are removed by using Special Tool
6094 or equivalent constant tension clamp pliers
(Fig. 16) to compress hose clamp.
A hardened, cracked, swollen or restricted hose should be replaced. Do not damage radiator inlet and outlet when loosening hoses.
Radiator hoses should be routed without any kinks and indexed as designed. The use of molded hoses is recommended.
Spring type hose clamps are used in all applications. If replacement is necessary replace with the original Mopar equipment spring type clamp.
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 9
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
The heater, operated by ordinary house current
(110 Volt A.C.) through a power cord and connector behind the radiator grille, provides easier engine starting and faster warm-up when vehicle is operated in areas having extremely low temperatures. The heater is mounted in a core hole (in place of a core hole plug) in the engine block, with the heating element immersed in coolant (Fig. 17). The power cord must be secured in its retainer clips, and not positioned so it could contact linkages or exhaust manifolds and become damaged. For removal procedures, refer to Removal and
Installation in this section.
Fig. 16 Hose Clamp Tool
PUMP BODY
7 - 10 COOLING SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
FWD O-RING WATER PUMP
JA
Fig. 17 Engine Block Heater
WATER PUMP—2.0/2.4L ENGINES
The water has a diecast aluminum body and housing with a stamped steel impeller. The water pump bolts directly to the block (Fig. 18). Cylinder block to water pump sealing is provided by a rubber O-ring.
The water pump is driven by the timing belt. Refer to Group 9, Engine section for component removal to access the water pump.
WATER PUMP—2.5L ENGINE
The water pump has a aluminum body with a steel impeller. A gasket is used to seal the pump to the cylinder block. The water pump inlet is located at the rear of the pump, a inlet tube located between the cylinder heads connects the water pump with the thermostat housing (Fig. 19). The water pump is driven by the timing belt. Refer to group 9, Engines for timing belt removal.
NOTE: The water pump on all models can be replaced without discharging the air conditioning system.
NOTE: The water pump can be replaced with out discharging the air conditioning system.
Fig. 18 Water Pump
Fig. 19 Water Pump and Inlet Tube
JA
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
LOW
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH OR ENGINE COOLANT
WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST FROM SYSTEM.
POSSIBLE CAUSE
1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) number 17 been set indicating a stuck open engine thermostat?
CORRECTION
1. Refer to On Board Diagnostic in
Group 25. Replace thermostat if necessary. if the (DTC) number 17 has not been set, the problem may be with the temperature gauge.
2. Check the connector at the engine coolant sensor. Refer to
Group 8E. Repair as necessary.
2. Is the temperature gauge (if equipped) connected to the temperature gauge coolant sensor on the engine?
3. Is the temperature gauge (if equipped) operating OK?
4. Coolant level low during cold ambient temperature, accompanied by poor heater performance.
1. Trailer being towed, a steep hill being climbed, vehicle being operated in slow moving traffic, or engine idling during high ambient
(outside) temperatures with air conditioning on. High altitudes
Could aggravate these conditions.
2. Is temperature gauge (if equipped) reading correctly?
3. Is temperature warning lamp (if equipped) illuminating unnecessarily?
4. Coolant low in overflow/reserve tank and radiator?
3. Check Gauge operation. Refer to
Group 8E. Repair as necessary.
4. Check coolant level in the coolant overflow/reserve tank and the radiator. Inspect the system for leaks. Repair as necessary. Refer to
WARNINGS outlined in this section before removing pressure cap.
1. This may be a temporary condition and repair is not necessary. Turn off the air conditioning and drive the vehicle without any of the previous conditions. Observe the temperature gauge the gauge should return to the normal range. If the gauge does not return to the normal range, determine the cause of the overheating and repair. Refer to
POSSIBLE CAUSES in this section.
2. Check gauge. Refer to Group 8E.
Repair as necessary.
3. Check warning lamp operation.
Refer to Group 8E. Repair as necessary.
4. Check for coolant leaks and repair as necessary. Refer to checking cooling system for leaks in this group.
5. Tighten cap.
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly.
If cap is loose, boiling point of coolant will be lowered. Also refer to the following step 6.
6. Poor seals at radiator cap.
6. (a) Check condition of cap and cap seals. Refer to Radiator cap
Inspection. Replace cap if necessary.
6. (b) Check condition of filler neck.
If neck is bent or damaged, replace neck.
7 - 12 COOLING SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CONT.
CONDITION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH OR ENGINE COOLANT
WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST FROM SYSTEM.
JA
POSSIBLE CAUSES
7. Coolant level low in radiator but not in coolant overflow/reserve tank. This means the radiator is not drawing coolant from the coolant overflow/reserve tank as the engine cools.
As the engine cools, a vacuum is formed inside the cooling system. If the radiator cap seals are defective, or the cooling system has a leak, a vacuum can not be formed.
8. Freeze point of coolant not correct. Mixture may be to rich.
9. Coolant not flowing through system.
CORRECTION
7. (a) Check condition of radiator cap and cap seals. Replace cap if necessary.
(b) Check condition of filler neck. If neck is damaged, replace filler neck.
(c) Check condition of hoses from filler neck to coolant tank. It should be tight at both ends without any kinks or tears. Replace hose if necessary.
(d) Check coolant overflow/reserve tank and tank hoses for blockage.
Repair as necessary.
8. Check coolant. Refer to coolant section in this group. Adjust glycol to water ratio as required.
9. Check for coolant flow at filler neck with some coolant removed, engine warm and thermostat open.
Coolant should be observed flowing through filler neck. If flow is not observed determine reason for lack of flow and repair as necessary.
10. Clean insects or debris.
10. Radiator or A/C condenser fins are dirty or clogged.
11. Radiator core is plugged or corroded.
12. Fuel or ignition system problems.
11. Replace or re-core radiator.
13. Dragging brakes.
12. Refer to Fuel and Ignition
System group for diagnosis. Also refer to the appropriate Powertrain
Diagnosis Procedures manual for operation of the DRB scan tool.
13. Inspect brake system and repair as necessary. Refer to Group 5,
Brakes for diagnosis.
14. Remove bug screen.
14. Bug screen is being used causing reduced air flow.
15. Thermostat partially or completely shut. This is more prevalent on high mileage vehicles.
16. Electric cooling fan not operating properly.
17. Cylinder head gasket leaking.
18. Heater core leaking.
15. Check thermostat operation and replace as necessary. Refer to thermostats in this group.
16. Check electric fan operation and repair as necessary.
17. Check cylinder head gasket for leaks. Refer to testing cooling system for leaks. For repairs, refer to group 9, Engines.
18. Check heater core for leaks.
Refer to Group 24, Heating and Air
Conditioning. Repair as necessary.
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CONT.
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 13
CONDITION
TEMPERAUTRE GAUGE READING
IS INCONSISTENT (FLUCTUATES,
CYCLES OR IS ERRATIC)
POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. The gauge may cycle up and down. This is due to the cycling of the electric radiator fan.
CORRECTION
1. A normal condition. No correction is necessary. If gauge cycling is going into the hot zone, check electric fan operation and repair as necessary. Refer to procedure outlined in this section.
2. A normal condition. No correction is necessary.
2. During cold weather operation, with the heater blower in the high position, the gauge reading may drop slightly.
3. Temperature gauge or engine mounted gauge sensor defective or shorted. Also, corroded or loose wiring in this circuit.
4. Gauge reading rises when vehicle is brought to a stop after heavy use (engine is still running).
3. Check operation of gauge and repair if necessary. Refer to Group
8E, Instrument Panel and Gauges
5. Gauge reading high after re-starting a warmed-up (hot) engine.
4. A normal condition. No correction is necessary. Gauge reading should return to normal range after vehicle is driven.
5. A normal condition. No correction is necessary. The gauge should return to normal range after a few minutes of engine operation.
6. Check and correct coolant leaks.
Refer to Testing Cooling System for
Leaks in this group.
6. Coolant level low in radiator (air will build up in the cooling system causing the thermostat to open late).
7. Cylinder head gasket leaking allowing exhaust gas to enter cooling system causing thermostat to open late.
8. Water pump impeller loose on shaft.
9. Loose accessory drive belt
(water pump slipping).
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING
OFF STEAM AND/OR COOLANT
TO COOLANT TANK.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
MAY BE ABOVE NORMAL BUT
NOT HIGH. COOLANT LEVEL MAY
BE HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/
OVERFLOW TANK
10. Air leak on suction side of water pump allows air to build up in cooling system causing thermostat to open late.
1. Pressure relief valve in radiator cap is defective.
7. (a) Check for cylinder head gasket leaks with a commercially available Block Leak Tester. Repair as necessary.
(b) Check for coolant in the engine oil. Inspect for white steam emitting from exhaust system. Repair as necessary.
8. Check water pump and replace as necessary. Refer to Water
Pumps in this group.
9. Refer to Engine Accessory Drive
Belts in this group. Check and correct as necessary.
10. Locate leak and repair as necessary.
1. Check condition of radiator cap and cap seals. Refer to Radiator
Caps in this group. Replace cap as necessary.
7 - 14 COOLING SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CONT.
CONDITION
COOLANT LOSS TO THE
GROUND WITHOUT PRESSURE
CAP BLOWOFF. GAUGE IS
READING HIGH OR HOT
DETONATION OR PRE-IGNITION
(NOT CAUSED BY IGNITION
SYSTEM). GAUGE MAY OR MAY
NOT BE READING HIGH
JA
POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Coolant leaks in radiator, cooling system hoses, water pump or engine.
CORRECTION
1. Pressure test and repair as necessary. Refer to Testing Cooling
System for Leaks in this group.
1. Engine overheating.
1. Check reason for overheating and repair as necessary.
HOSE OR HOSES COLLAPSE
WHEN ENGINE IS COOLING
ELECTRIC RADIATOR FAN RUNS
ALL THE TIME
ELECTRIC RADIATOR FAN WILL
NOT RUN. GAUGE READING
HIGH OR HOT
NOISY FAN
2. Freeze point of coolant not correct. Mixture is too rich or too lean.
1. Vacuum created in cooling system on engine cool-down is not being relieved through coolant reserve/overflow system.
1. Fan relay, powertrain control module (PCM) or engine coolant temperature sensor defective.
2. Check for low coolant level.
1. Fan motor defective.
2. Fan relay, powertrain control modue (PCM) or engine coolant temperature sensor defective.
3. Blown fuse in power distribution center (PDC).
1. Fan blades loose.
2. Fan blades striking a surrounding object.
3. Air obstructions at radiator or air conditioning condenser.
4. Electric fan motor defective.
2. Check the freeze point of the coolant. Refer to Coolant in the group for test procedure. Adjust the glycol to water ratio as required.
1. (a) Radiator cap relief valve stuck. Refer to Radiator Cap in this group. Replace if necessary.
(b) Hose between coolant resrve overflow tank and radiator is kinked.
Repair as necessary.
(c) Vent at coolant reserve/overflow tank is plugged. Clean vent and repair as necessary.
(d) Reserve/overflow tank is internally blocked or plugged. Check for blockage and repair as necessary.
1. Refer to appropriate Powertrain
Diagnostic Procedures manual for operation of the DRB scan tool.
Repair as necessary.
2. Repair as necessary.
1. Refer to appropriate Powertrain
Diagnostic Procedures manual for operation of the DRB scan tool.
Repair as necessary.
2. Refer to appropriate Powertrain
Diagnostic Procedures manual for operation of the DRB scan tool.
Repair as necessary.
3. Determine reason for blown fuse and repair as necessary.
1. Replace fan blade assembly.
Refer to Cooling System Fans in this group.
2. Locate point of fan blade contact and repair as necessary.
3. Remove obstructions and/or clean debris or insects from radiator or A/C condenser.
4. Refer to procedure outlined in this section.
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CONT.
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 15
CONDITION
INADEQUATE AIR CONDITIONER
PERFORMANCE (COOLING
SYSTEM SUSPECTED)
INADEQUATE HEATER
PERFORMANCE.
HEAT ODOR
POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Radiator and/or air conditioning condenser is restricted, obstructed or dirty.
2. Electric radiator fan not operating when a/c is on.
CORRECTION
1. Remove restriction and/or clean as necessary.
2. Refer to appropriate Powertrain
Diagnostic Procedures manual for operation of the DRB scan tool.
repair as necessary.
3. Correct overheating condition.
Refer to Group 7, Cooling.
3. Engine is overheating ( heat may be transferred from radiator to A/C condenser. High underhood temperature due to engine overheating may also transfer heat to A/C components).
1. Has a diagnostic trouble code
(DTC) number 17 been set?
2. Coolant level low.
3. Obstructions in heater hose fittings at engine.
4. Heater hose kinked.
5. Water pump is not pumping coolant to heater core. When the engine is fully warmed up, both heater hoses should be hot to the touch. The accessory drive belt may be slipping causing poor water pump operation.
6. Various heat shields are used at certain drive line components. One or more of these shields may be missing.
1. Refer to On-Board Diagnostic in
Group 25, and replace thermostat if necessary.
2. Refer to testing cooling system for leaks in this section. Repair as necessary.
3. Remove heater hoses at both ends and check for obstructions.
Repair as necessary.
4. Locate kinked area and repair as necessary.
5. Refer to water pump in this group. Repair as necessary. If slipping belt is detected, refer to accessory drive belts in this group.
Repair as necessary.
6. Locate missing shields and replace or repair as necessary.
7 - 16 COOLING SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CONT.
JA
CONDITION
HEAT ODOR - CONT.
STEAM IS COMING FROM FRONT
OF VEHICLE NEAR GRILL AREA
WHEN WEATHER IS WET,
ENGINE IS WARMED UP AND
RUNNING, AND VEHICLE IS
STATIONARY. TEMPERATURE
GAUGE IS IN NORMAL RANGE
COOLANT LEVEL CHANGES IN
COOLANT RESERVE/OVERFLOW
TANK. TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS
IN NORMAL RANGE
POSSIBLE CAUSES
2. Is temperature gauge reading above the normal range?
3. Is cooling fan operating correctly?
POOR DIRVEABILITY
(THERMOSTAT POSSIBLY STUCK
OPEN). GAUGE MAY BE READING
LOW
1. For proper driveability, good vehicle emissions and for preventing build-up of engine oil sludge, the thermostat must be operating properly. Has a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) number 17 been set?
COOLANT COLOR
CORRECTION
2. Refer to the previous
Temperature Gauge Reads High in these Diagnosis Charts. Repair as necessary.
3. Refer to Cooling System Fan in this group for diagnosis. Repair as necessary.
4. Clean undercoating as necessary.
4. Has undercoating been applied to any unnecessary component?
5. Engine may be running rich causing the catalytic converter to overheat.
1. During wet weather, moisture
(snow, ice or rain condensation) on the radiator will evaporate when the thermostat opens. This opening allows heated water into the radiator. When the moisture contacts the hot radiator, steam may be emitted. This ususally occurs in cold weather with no fan or airflow to blow it away.
1. Coolant color is not necessarily an indication of adequate corrosion or temperature protection. Do not rely on coolant color for determining condition of coolant.
1. Level changes are to be expected as coolant volume fluctuates with engine temperature.
If the level in the tank was between the FULL and ADD marks at normal engine operating temperature, the level should return to within that range after operation at elevated temperatures.
5. Refer to appropriate Powertrain
Diagnostic Procedures manual for operation of the DRB scan tool.
Repair as necessary.
1. Refer to On-Board Diagnostics in
Group 25. DTC’s may also be checked using the DRB scan tool.
Refer to the proper Powertrain
Diagnostics Procedures manual for checking the thermostat using the
DRB scan tool. Replace thermostat if necessary.
1. Occasional stem emitting from this area is normal. No repair is necessary.
1. Check the freeze point of the coolant. Refer to Coolant in the group for test procedure. Adjust the glycol to water ratio as required.
1. A normal condition. No repair is necessary.
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
ENGINE THERMOSTAT TESTING
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled container (pellet) which is sealed so that when heated to a predetermined temperature. The wax expands enough to overcome the closing spring and water pump pressure, which forces the valve to open. Coolant leakage into the pellet will cause a thermostat to fail open. Do not attempt to free up a thermostat with a screwdriver.
The thermostat that opens too soon type failure mode is included in the on-board diagnosis. The check engine light will not be lit by an open too soon condition. If it has failed open, code 17 will be set. Do not change a thermostat for lack of heater performance or temperature gage position, unless code 17 is present. See diagnosis for other probable causes.
Thermostat failing shut is the normal long term mode of failure, and normally, only on high mileage vehicles. The temperature gauge will indicate this,
Refer to diagnosis in this section.
WATER PUMP DIAGNOSIS
A quick flow test to tell whether or not the pump is working is to see if the heater warms properly. A defective pump will not be able to circulate heated coolant through the long heater hose.
Another flow test to help determine pump operation, remove radiator cap.
WARNING: DO NOT remove radiator cap if the cooling system is hot or under pressure.
COOLING SYSTEM FLOW CHECK
To determine whether coolant is flowing through the cooling system, use the following procedures:
(1) If engine is cold, idle engine until normal operating temperature is reached. Then feel the upper radiator hose. If it is hot, coolant is circulating.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE COOLING SYS-
TEM PRESSURE CAP WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS
FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Remove pressure cap when engine is cold, remove small amount of coolant Idle engine until thermostat opens, you should observe coolant flow while looking down the filler neck. Once flow is detected install the pressure cap.
RADIATOR FAN CONTROL
Fan control is accomplished three ways. The fan runs when the air conditioning pressure reaches a set psi see charts below. In addition to this control, the fan is turned on by the temperature of the coolant which is sensed by the coolant temperature sen-
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 17
sor which sends the message to the Engine
Controller. The Engine Controller turns on the fan through the fan relay. On models equipped with automatic transmission, a transmission fluid thermister may have some influences on fan operation. See Wiring Diagrams Manual for circuity and diagnostics provided.
The Power Train Control Module (PCM) provides fan control for the following conditions:
• The fan will not run during cranking until the engine starts no matter what the coolant temperature is.
• Fan will run when the air conditioning clutch is engaged, low pressure cutout switch is closed and once set compressor head pressure is reached. See charts.
•
Fan will run according to the following information charts.
RADIATOR FAN OPERATION—2.0L ENGINE
Radiator Fan Control
A/C Off Low High
Fan On: 104°C
(220°F)
Fan Off: 99°C
(210°F)
A/C On Low
Fan On: 99°C
(210°F)
110°C
(230°F)
104°C
(220°F)
High
110°C
(230°F)
A/C Pressure
Fan Off: 93°C
(200°F)
104°C
(220°F)
EATX Fluid Temperature
Fan On:
Fan Off:
Low
1,466
Kpa
(209 psi)
1,172
Kpa
(170 psi)
Low
Speed
116°C
(240°F)
109°C
(228°F)
High
1,717 Kpa
(249 psi)
1,579 Kpa
(229 psi)
High
Speed
120°C
(248°F)
116°C
(240°F)
7 - 18 COOLING SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
RADIATOR FAN OPERATION—2.4L ENGINE
Radiator Fan Control
A/C Off Low
Fan On: 104°C
(219°F)
Fan Off: 99°C
(210°F)
A/C On Low
Fan On: 99°C
(210°F)
High
110°C
(230°F)
105°C
(221°F)
High
110°C
(230°F)
A/C Pressure
Fan Off: 93°C
(199°F)
EATX Fluid Temperature
Fan On:
Fan Off:
105°C
(221°F)
Low
1,448
Kpa
(210 psi)
1,207
Kpa
(175
Psi)
Low
Speed
118°C
(244°F)
116°C
(240°F)
High
1,718 Kpa
(249 psi)
1,585 Kpa
(229 Psi)
High
Speed
122°C
(252°F)
118°C
(244°F)
RADIATOR FAN OPERATION—2.5L ENGINE
Radiator Fan Control
A/C Off Low High
Fan On: 104°C
(220°F)
Fan Off: 98°C
(208°F)
A/C On Low
Fan On: 99°C
(210°F)
110°C
(230°F)
105°C
(221°F)
High
110°C
(230°F)
Fan Off:
EATX Fluid Temperature
Fan On:
Fan Off:
93°C
(199°F)
105°C
(221°F)
A/C Pressure
Low
1,448
Kpa
(210 psi)
1,207
Kpa
(175 psi)
Low
Speed
118°C
(244°F)
116°C
(240°F)
High
1,718 Kpa
(249 psi)
1,585 kpa
(229 psi)
High
Speed
122°C
(252°F)
118°C
(244°F)
JA
ELECTRIC FAN MOTOR TEST
Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Manual for procedure.
For wiring diagrams of the fan motor systems refer to 8W Wiring Diagrams.
TESTING SYSTEM FOR LEAKS
With engine not running, wipe the coolant filler neck sealing seat clean. The radiator should be full.
Attach a radiator pressure tester to the coolant filler neck, as shown in (Fig. 20) and apply 104 kPa
(15 psi) pressure. If the pressure drops more than 2 psi in 2 minutes inspect all points for external leaks.
All hoses, radiator and heater, should be moved while at 104 kPa (15 psi) since some leaks occur while driving due to engine rock, etc.
Fig. 20 Pressure Testing Cooling System—Typical
If there are no external leaks after the gauge dial shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester. Start engine and run the engine to normal operating temperature in order to open the thermostat and allow the coolant to expand. Re-attach the tester. If the needle on the dial fluctuates it indicates a combustion leak, usually a head gasket leak.
WARNING: WITH TOOL IN PLACE PRESSURE
BUILDS UP FAST. ANY EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF
PRESSURE BUILT UP BY CONTINUOUS ENGINE
OPERATION MUST BE RELEASED TO A SAFE
PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRESSURE TO
EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate, race the engine a few times. If an abnormal amount of coolant or steam is emitted from the tail pipe, it may indicate a faulty head gasket, cracked engine block or cylinder head.
There may be internal leaks which can be determined by removing the oil dip-stick. If water globules appear intermixed with the oil it will indicate a
THERMOSTAT VENT VALVE STAINLESS-STEEL
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued) internal leak in the engine. If there is an internal leak, the engine must be disassembled for repair.
PRESSURE CAP TO FILLER NECK SEAL
PRESSURE RELIEF CHECK
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure relief can be checked by removing the overflow hose at the radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 21). Attach the radiator pressure tester to the filler neck nipple, and pump air into the system. The pressure cap upper gasket should relieve pressure at 69-124 kPa
(10-18 psi), and hold pressure at 55 kPa (8 psi) minimum.
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS DO NOT OPEN
HOT ON THE PRESSURE CAP IS A SAFETY PRE-
CAUTION. WHEN HOT, THE COOLING SYSTEM
BUILDS UP PRESSURE. TO PREVENT SCALDING
OR OTHER INJURY, THE PRESSURE CAP SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM IS HOT
AND/OR UNDER PRESSURE.
PRESSURE CAP
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 19
PRESSURE TESTING COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE CAP
Dip the pressure cap in water; clean off any deposits on the vent valve or its seat, and apply the cap to end of radiator pressure tester (Fig. 22). Working the plunger, increase the pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on the gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold pressure of at least 97 kPa (14 psi), replace the cap.
CAUTION: The radiator pressure tester is very sensitive to small air leaks that will not cause cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does not have a history of coolant loss should not be replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested with this tool. Add water to the tool. Turn the tool upside down, and recheck the pressure cap to confirm that the cap is faulty.
If the pressure cap tests properly while positioned the on radiator pressure tester, but will not hold pressure or vacuum when positioned on the filler neck, inspect the filler neck and cap top gasket for irregularities that may prevent the cap from sealing properly.
Fig. 21 Cooling System Pressure Cap toFiller Neck
There is no need to remove the pressure cap at any time except for the following purposes:
• Check and adjust coolant freeze point
• Refill system with new coolant
• Conducting service procedures
• Checking for leaks
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN
RECENTLY, WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
CAP. PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP, AND
WITHOUT PUSHING DOWN, ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS
TO ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE.
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS, PUSH DOWN ON THE CAP AND REMOVE
IT COMPLETELY.
SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR
INLET HOSE WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK
PRESSURE) BEFORE AND AFTER TURNING TO
THE FIRST STOP IS RECOMMENDED.
Fig. 22 Pressure Testing Radiator Cap
LOW COOLANT LEVEL AERATION
Low coolant level in a cross flow radiator will equalize in both tanks with engine off. With engine at running operating temperature the high pressure inlet tank runs full and the low pressure outlet tank drops. If this level drops below the top of the transmission oil cooler, air will be sucked into the water pump:
• Transmission oil will become hotter.
• High reading shown on the temperature gauge.
• Air in the coolant will also cause loss of flow through the heater.
• Exhaust gas leaks into the coolant can also cause the same problems.
7 - 20 COOLING SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
DEAERATION
Air can only be removed from the system by gathering under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it will be pushed past the pressure cap into the CRS tank by thermal expansion of the coolant. It then escapes to the atmosphere in the CRS tank and is replaced with solid coolant on cool down.
JA
TEMPERATURE GAUGE INDICATION
At idle the temperature gauge could rise slowly to about 1/2 gauge travel. The fan will come on and the gauge could drop to about 1/3 gauge travel, this is normal.
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS
Satisfactory performance of the belt driven accessories depends on belt condition and proper belt tension.
Condition
INSUFFICIENT ACCESSORY
OUTPUT DUE TO BELT
SLIPPAGE
Possible Cause
(a) Belt too loose.
Correction
(a) Adjust belt tension
BELT SQUEAL WHEN
ACCELERATING ENGINE
(b) Belt excessive glazed or worn.
(a) Belts too loose.
(b) Replace and tighten as specified
(a) Adjust belt tension.
BELT CHIRP AT IDLE
BELT ROLLED OVER IN GROOVE
OR BELT JUMPS OFF
(b) Belts glazed
(a) Belts too loose.
(b) Replace belts.
(a) Adjust belt tension.
(b) Dirt and paint imbedded in belt.
(b) Replace belt.
(c) Non-uniform belt.
(d) Misaligned pulleys.
(e) Non-uniform groove or eccentric pulley.
(a) Broken cord in belt.
(c) Replace belt.
(d) Align accessories.
(e) Replace pulley.
(a) Replace belt.
(b) Belt too loose, or too tight.
(c) Misaligned pulleys.
(d) Non-uniform grooves or eccentric pulley.
(b) Adjust belt tension.
(c) Align accessories.
(d) Replace pulley.
DRAIN
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
If unit does not operate, trouble can be in either the power cord or the heater element. Test power cord for continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or 110volt test light; test heater element continuity with an ohmmeter or 12-volt test light.
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 21
Check governmental regulations for disposal of used engine coolant.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
ROUTINE COOLANT LEVEL CHECK
Do not remove radiator cap for routine coolant level inspections.
The coolant reserve system provides a quick visual method for determining the coolant level without removing the radiator cap. Simply observe, with the engine idling and warmed up to normal operating temperature, that the level of the coolant in the reserve tank is between the minimum and maximum marks.
ADDING ADDITIONAL COOLANT
NOTE: The radiator cap should not be removed.
When additional coolant is needed, it should be added to the coolant reserve tank. Use only 50/50 concentration of ethylene glycol type antifreeze and water
SERVICING COOLANT LEVEL
NOTE: The cooling system is closed and designed to maintain coolant level to the top of the radiator.
When servicing requires a coolant level check in the radiator, the engine must be off and not under pressure. Drain several ounces of coolant from the radiator drain cock while observing the Coolant
Recovery System (CRS) Tank. Coolant level in the
CRS tank should drop slightly. Then remove the radiator cap. The radiator should be full to the top. If not, and the coolant level in the CRS tank is at the
ADD mark there is a air leak in the CRS system.
Check hose or hose connections to the CRS tank, radiator filler neck or the pressure cap seal to the radiator filler neck for leaks.
DRAINING COOLING SYSTEM
NOTE: Drain, flush, and fill the cooling system at the mileage or time intervals specified in the Maintenance Schedule in this Group. If the solution is dirty or rusty or contains a considerable amount of sediment, clean and flush with a reliable cooling system cleaner. Care should be taken in disposing of the used engine coolant from your vehicle.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE COOLING SYS-
TEM PRESSURE CAP OR OPEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK, WHEN SYSTEM IS HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM
COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
To drain cooling system move temperature selector for heater to full heat with engine running (to provide vacuum for actuation). Without removing radiator pressure cap and with system not
under pressure, Shut engine off and open draincock
(Fig. 23). The coolant reserve tank should empty first, then remove radiator pressure cap. (if not, see
Testing Cooling System for leaks).
NOTE: To open draincock on vehicle equipped with
2.5L engine, use a 3/8 inch drive extension 3” long, a 19mm socket with universal.
Fig. 23 Draincock—Typical
REFILLING COOLING SYSTEM
First clean system to remove old glycol, see Cooling
System Cleaning.
Fill system using antifreeze described in Coolant section. Fill 50 percent of capacity with 100 percent glycol. Then complete filling system with water. The thermostats in the these engines allow air flow to through them.
Continue filling system until full, this provides better heater performance. Be careful not to spill coolant on drive belts or the generator.
Fill coolant reserve system to at least the FULL
HOT mark with 50/50 solution. It may be necessary to add coolant to the reserve tank to maintain coolant level between the FULL HOT and ADD mark after three or four warm-up, cool down cycles and trapped air has been removed.
CYLINDER BLOCK
7 - 22 COOLING SYSTEM
PUMP BODY IMPELLER PUMP BODY O-RING
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
WATER PUMP—2.0/2.4L ENGINES
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on a hoist. Remove right inner splash shield.
(2) Remove accessory drive belts and power steering pump. Refer to Accessory Drive Belt service of this section.
(3) Drain cooling system. Refer to Draining Cooling System in this group.
(4) Support engine from the bottom and remove right engine mount.
(5) Remove power steering pump bracket bolts and set pump and bracket assembly aside. Power steering lines do not need to be disconnected.
(6) Remove right engine mount bracket.
(7) Remove timing belt. Refer to Group 9, Engine for procedure.
(8) Remove inner timing belt cover.
(9) Remove water pump attaching screws to engine
(Fig. 24).
Fig. 24 Water Pump
INSTALLATION
(1) Install new O-ring gasket in water pump body
O-ring groove (Fig. 25).
CAUTION: Make sure O-ring is properly seated in water pump groove before tightening screws. An improperly located O-ring may cause damage to the
O-ring and cause a coolant leak.
Fig. 25 Water Pump Body
(2) Assemble pump body to block and tighten screws to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) (Fig. 24). Pressurize cooling system to 15 psi with pressure tester and check water pump shaft seal and O-ring for leaks.
(3) Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of movement.
(4) Install inner timing belt cover.
(5) Install timing belt. Refer to Group 9, Engine and Reassemble engine.
(6) Install right engine mount bracket and engine mount. Refer to Group 9, for procedure.
(7) Fill cooling system. Refer to Filling Cooling
System for procedure outlined in this group.
(8) Install power steering pump and accessory drive belts, Refer to Accessory Drive Belts, in this
Group.
GASKET O-RING WATER PIPE
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
WATER PUMP—2.5L ENGINE
REMOVAL
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 23
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean all gasket and O-ring surfaces on pump and water pipe inlet tube.
(2) Install new O-ring on water inlet pipe (Fig. 28).
Wet the O-ring with water to facilitate assembly.
CAUTION: Keep the O-ring free of oil or grease.
Fig. 26 Water Pump—2.5L Engine
(1) Drain cooling system. Refer to Draining Cooling System in this group.
(2) Remove mounting bolts.
(3) Separate pump from water inlet pipe (Fig. 27) and remove pump (Fig. 26).
Fig. 28 Water Pipe O-Ring
(3) Install new gasket on water pump and install pump inlet opening over water pipe, press assembly to cause water pipe insertion into pump housing.
(4) Install pump to block mounting bolts and tighten to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.).
(5) See Group 9, Engine and install timing belt.
Reassemble engine.
(6) Fill cooling system. See Refilling Cooling System.
(7) Install accessory drive belts. Refer to Accessory
Drive Belts, in this Group for procedure.
Fig. 27 Water Pump Inlet Tube
7 - 24
WATER PUMP INLET
TUBE
O-RING
COOLING SYSTEM
VENT THERMOSTAT
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
WATER PUMP INLET TUBE—2.0/2.4L ENGINES
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system. Refer to procedure outlined in this section.
(2) Remove upper radiator hose to access the hose connections at the inlet tube.
(3) Remove lower radiator hose and heater hose from the inlet tube (Fig. 29).
(4) Remove the 2 fasteners from that hold the inlet tube to the block.
(4) Connect lower radiator hose and heater hose to inlet tube (Fig. 29).
(5) Install upper radiator hose.
(6) Fill cooling system. Refer to procedure outlined in this section.
THERMOSTAT
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system to the thermostat level or below.
(2) Remove coolant recovery system (CRS) hose and thermostat/engine outlet connector bolts (Fig. 31) and (Fig. 32) 2.0/2.4L Engines. 2.5L engine remove inlet hose and coolant elbow from thermostat housing
(Fig. 33).
(3) Remove thermostat assembly, and clean sealing surfaces.
Fig. 29 Water Pump Inlet Tube Hose Connections
(5) Rotate tube while removing the tube from the engine block (Fig. 30).
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect the O-ring for damage before installing the tube into the cylinder block (Fig. 30).
(2) Lube O-ring with coolant and install into the cylinder block opening.
(3) Install 2 fasteners and tighten to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).
Fig. 31 Thermostat/Engine Outlet Connector—
2.0LEngine
Fig. 30 Water Pump Inlet Tube—Service
Fig. 32 Thermostat and Engine Outlet Connector—
2.4LEngine
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
RADIATOR
REMOVAL
VIEW A
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 25
Fig. 33 Thermostat, Housing and Inlet Elbow—
2.5LEngine
INSTALLATION
(1) Place the new thermostat assembly into the engine outlet connector. Align air bleed with notch on the cylinder head.
(2) Install engine outlet connector onto cylinder head and tighten bolts to 12.5 N·m (110 in. lbs.).
Connect the coolant recovery system (CRS) hose.
(3) Fill cooling system. Refer to Refilling System outlined in this section.
INSTALLATION—2.5L ENGINE
Install thermostat into the recess in the thermostat housing. Install inlet elbow and tighten the bolts to
12 N·m (133 in. lbs.) (Fig. 33).
Fig. 34 Cooling Module Mounting
(1) Disconnect negative cable from auxiliary jumper terminal. Remove air inlet resonator. Refer to
Group 14, Fuel System for procedure.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK PLUG OR THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE
BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
(2) Drain cooling system. Refer to Draining Cooling System of this section.
(3) Remove upper radiator crossmember (Fig. 34).
Refer to Group 23, Body for procedure.
CAUTION: Plastic tanks, while stronger then brass are subject to damage by impact, such as wrenches.
(4) Remove hose clamps and hoses from the radiator.
(5) Disconnect automatic transmission hoses from cooler and plug off.
(6) Disconnect the fan wiring connector.
(7) Disconnect the engine block heater wire, if equipped.
AIR CONDITIONING CONDENSER TO DRAIN
7 - 26 COOLING SYSTEM
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
CAUTION: Avoid bending the condenser inlet tube.
Care should be taken not to damage radiator or condenser cooling fins or water tubes during removal.
(8) Remove the air conditioning condenser attaching screws located at the front of the radiator (Fig.
35), if equipped. It is not necessary to discharge the air conditioning system to remove radiator.
(7) Install upper radiator crossmember. Refer to
Group 23, Body for procedure.
(8) Connect negative cable from auxiliary jumper terminal.
(9) Fill cooling system with coolant. Refer to Refilling Cooling System in this group.
(10) Operate engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Check cooling system and automatic transmission for correct fluid levels.
RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
REMOVAL
CAUTION: Plastic tanks, while stronger then brass are subject to damage by impact, such as wrenches.
(1) Turn the drain cock stem counterclockwise to unscrew the stem. When the stem is unscrewed to the end of the threads, pull the stem (Fig. 36) from the radiator tank.
NOTE: To open draincock on vehicle equipped with
2.5L engine, use a 3/8 inch drive extension 3” long, a 19mm socket with universal.
Fig. 35 A/C Condenser to Radiator MountingScrews
(9) Radiator can now be lifted free from engine compartment. Care should be taken not to dam- age radiator cooling fins or water tubes during removal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Slide radiator and fan module down into position, seat the radiator assembly lower rubber isolators in the mount holes provided.
(2) Attach air conditioning condenser to radiator, if equipped. Tighten mounting screws to 5 N·m (45 in.
lbs.).
(3) Connect engine block heater wire, if equipped.
(4) Connect lower radiator hose and clamp. Connect automatic transmission hoses; tighten hose clamps to 2.5 N·m (22 in. lbs.).
(5) Connect fan motor electrical connection.
(6) Install upper radiator hose. Align hose so it does not interfere with the accessory drive belt or engine. Position hose clamp so it will not interfere with the hood liner.
Fig. 36 Draincock—Typical
INSTALLATION
(1) Push the draincock assembly body into the tank opening until it snaps into place.
(2) Tighten the draincock stem by turning clockwise to 2.0-2.7 N·m (18-25 in. lbs.) torque.
RETAINING CLIP
FAN
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
RADIATOR FAN, MOTOR AND SHROUD
FAN SERVICE
There are no repairs to be made to the fan. If the fan is warped, cracked, or otherwise damaged, it must be replaced with only the recommended part for adequate strength, performance and safety.
(1) To remove fan from motor shaft, bench support the motor and motor shaft, while removing the fan retaining clip, so that the shaft and motor will not be damaged by excessive force. Surface burr removal may be required to remove fan from motor
shaft (Fig. 37). Do not permit the fan blades to touch the bench.
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 27
FAN SHROUD
All vehicles have fan shrouds to improve fan air flow efficiency.
The shroud supports the electric fan motor and fan. For removal and installation procedures, refer to
Radiator Section.
FAN MOTOR SERVICE
(1) Remove the motor fasteners from support.
Remove motor from support.
(2) Reverse the above procedure for Installation.
Tighten the short fan motor fasteners to 3 N·m (25 in. lbs.) and tighten the tall fan motor fasteners to 5
N·m (45 in. lbs.).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install assembly to radiator. Torque shroud to radiator fasteners to 7.5 N·m (65 in. lbs.).
(2) Connect fan motor lead. For wiring diagrams of fan motor systems Refer to 8W Wiring Dia-
grams .
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
REMOVAL
(1) Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block.
Refer to Cooling System Drain, Clean, Flush and
Refill of this section for procedure.
(2) Detach power cord plug from heater.
(3) Loosen screw in center of heater. Remove heater assembly.
Fig. 37 Radiator Fan—Servicing
(2) To install fan on motor shaft, slide the fan over shaft. Support motor and shaft as above while installing fan retaining clip.
Fan Module
BLOCK HEATER FWD
7 - 28 COOLING SYSTEM
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean core hole and heater seat
(Fig. 38).
(2) Insert heater assembly with electrical connector position at the top of the core hole.
(3) With heater seated, tighten center screw securely to assure a positive seal.
(4) Fill cooling system with coolant to the proper level, vent air, and inspect for leaks. Pressurize system with Radiator Pressure Tool before looking for leaks.
The power cord must be secured in its retainer clips, and not positioned so it could contact linkages or exhaust manifolds and become damaged.
Fig. 38 Engine Block Heaters
AIR CONDITIONING 1/2 INCH
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS—2.0/2.4L ENGINES
AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR AND
GENERATOR BELT
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 29
POWER STEERING PUMP BELT
(1) From the top of the vehicle loosen pivot bolt C.
(2) From under the vehicle loosen locking bolts D and E (Fig. 40).
Accessory Drive Belt System—AllEngines
(1) Loosen T-Bolt locking nut A and pivot bolt B to remove and install Poly V belt and/or adjust belt tension (Fig. 39).
(2) Tighten adjusting bolt to adjust belt tension to specification shown in belt tension chart (Fig. 43).
(3) Tighten T-Bolt locking nut A and pivot bolt B to
54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 39).
Fig. 40 Power Steering Belt Adjustment
(3) Install the belt. Adjust belt tension with 1/2 in.
breaker bar installed in adjusting bracket. See tension specification in chart (Fig. 43).
(4) Tighten locking bolt D to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
(Fig. 40).
(5) Tighten locking bolt E and the pivot bolt C to
54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Fig. 39 Air Conditioning Compressor and
GeneratorBelt Adjustment
LOCKING BOLT ADJUSTINGBOLT 1/2
7 - 30 COOLING SYSTEM
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT—2.5L ENGINE
JA
(5) Tighten locking bolt F and the pivot bolt to 54
N·m (40 ft. lbs.).
AIR CONDITIONING BELT AND GENERATOR
BELT
To remove and install the air conditioning compressor and generator drive belt, first loosen the idler pulley lock bolt, then turn the adjusting screw to increase or decrease the idler pulley tension (Fig. 41).
To adjust the air conditioning and generator drive belt, loosen the idler pulley bolt (Fig. 41) and adjust belt tension by turning adjusting screw (Fig. 41).
Tighten pulley bolt to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) after adjustment.
Fig. 41 Air Conditioning Compressor and
GeneratorBelt Idler
POWER STEERING PUMP BELT
(1) From the top of the vehicle loosen pivot bolt
(Fig. 42).
(2) From under the vehicle loosen the locking bolts
F and G (Fig. 42).
(3) Install the belt. Adjust belt tension with 1/2 in.
breaker bar installed in adjusting bracket (Fig. 42).
See tension specification in chart (Fig. 43).
(4) Tighten locking bolt G to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.)
(Fig. 42).
Fig. 42 Power Steering Belt Adjustment
ACCESSORY DRIVE
BELT
2.0/2.4L ENGINE
AIR CONDITIONING
COMPRESSOR/
GENERATOR
POWER STEERING
PUMP
2.5L ENGINE
AIR CONDITIONING
COMPRESSOR/
GENERATOR
POWER STEERING
PUMP
GAUGE
NEW 150 LB.
USED 80 LB.
NEW 130 LB.
USED 80 LB.
NEW 150 LB.
USED 80 LB.
NEW 130 LB.
USED 80 LB.
Fig. 43 Belt Tension Chart
PUMP
JA
NORMAL
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 31
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
WATER PUMP—2.0/2.4L ENGINES
Replace water pump body assembly if it has any of these defects:
(1) Cracks or damage on the body.
(2) Coolant leaks from the shaft seal, evident by coolant traces on the pump body.
(3) Loose or rough turning bearing.
(4) Impeller rubs either the pump body or the engine block.
(5) Impeller loose or damaged.
(6) Sprocket or sprocket flange loose or damaged.
WATER PUMP—2.5L ENGINE
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT INSPECTION
Belt replacement under any or all of the following conditions is required, excessive wear, frayed cords or severe glazing.
Poly-V-Belt system with back drive pulley may develop minor cracks across the ribbed side (due to reverse bending). These minor cracks are considered normal and acceptable. Cracks parallel are not (Fig.
45).
NOTE: Do not use any type of belt dressing or restorer on Poly-V-Belt and V-Belt
Fig. 44 Water Pump Inspection
Replace the water pump if it has any of the following defects:
• Damage or cracks on the pump body.
• Coolant leaks, if the shaft seal is leaking, evident by traces of coolant leaks from vent hole A in
(Fig. 44).
•
Impeller rubs inside of pump.
•
Excessively loose or rough turning bearing.
Fig. 45 Drive Belt Wear Pattern
COOLING SYSTEM CAP
Hold the cap in your hand, right side up (Fig. 46).
The vent valve at the bottom of the cap should open.
If the rubber gasket has swollen, preventing the valve from opening, replace the cap.
Hold the cleaned cap in your hand, upside down.
If any light can be seen between vent valve and the rubber gasket, replace the cap. Do not use a replacement cap that has a spring to hold the vent shut.
THERMOSTAT VENT VALVE STAINLESS-STEEL
7 - 32 COOLING SYSTEM
CLEANING AND INSPECTION (Continued)
A replacement cap must be of the type designed for coolant reserve systems. This design ensures coolant return to the radiator.
Fig. 46 Cooling System Pressure Cap
CLEANING COOLING SYSTEM
Drain cooling system (see: Draining Cooling Sys-
tem ) and refill with clean water (see: Refilling
Cooling System ). Run engine with radiator cap installed until upper radiator hose is hot. Stop engine and drain water from system. If water is dirty, fill, run and drain system again until water runs clear.
RADIATOR FLUSHING
Drain cooling system and remove radiator hoses from engine. Install suitable flushing gun in radiator lower hose. Fill radiator with clean water and turn on air in short blasts.
CAUTION: Internal radiator pressure must not exceed 138 kPa (20 psi) as damage to radiator may result. Continue this procedure until water runs clear.
ENGINE FLUSHING
Drain radiator (see: Draining Cooling System ) and remove hoses from radiator. Remove engine thermostat and reinstall thermostat housing. A gasket may be needed to seal the housing to cylinder head because the seal is part of thermostat. Install suitable flushing gun to thermostat housing hose. Turn on water, and when engine is filled, turn on air, but no higher than 138 kPa (20 psi) in short blasts. Allow engine to fill between blasts of air. Continue this procedure until water runs clean. Install thermostat and fill cooling system. Refer to Refilling Cooling Sys-
tem ) for procedure.
JA
REVERSE FLUSHING
Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forcing of water through the cooling system, using air pressure in a direction opposite to that of the normal flow of water. This is only necessary with dirty systems and evidence of partial plugging.
CHEMICAL CLEANING
One type of corrosion encountered with aluminum cylinder heads is aluminum hydroxide deposits. Corrosion products are carried to the radiator and deposited when cooled off. They appear as dark grey when wet and white when dry. This corrosion can be removed with a two part cleaner (oxalic acid and neutralizer) available in auto parts outlets. Follow manufacturers directions for use.
ADJUSTMENTS
BELT TENSION GAUGE METHOD
For conventional belts and Poly-V belts, use belt tensioning Special Tool Kit C-4162 to obtain proper belt tension.
Adjust the belt tension for a New or Used belt as prescribed in the Belt Tension Chart (Fig. 47).
ACCESSORY DRIVE
BELT
2.0/2.4L ENGINE
AIR CONDITIONING
COMPRESSOR/
GENERATOR
POWER STEERING
PUMP
2.5L ENGINE
AIR CONDITIONING
COMPRESSOR/
GENERATOR
POWER STEERING
PUMP
Fig. 47 Belt Tension Chart
GAUGE
NEW 150 LB.
USED 80 LB.
NEW 130 LB.
USED 80 LB.
NEW 150 LB.
USED 80 LB.
NEW 130 LB.
USED 80 LB.
JA
COOLING SYSTEM 7 - 33
SPECIFICATIONS
COOLING SYSTEM CAPACITY
ENGINE
(COOLANT)
*
CAPACITY
LITERS
U.S. QTS.
8.0
8.5
2.0L
8.5
9.0
2.4L
2.5L
10.0
10.5
*CAPACITY, Includes Heater and Coolant Recovery
System
TORQUE
Description Torque
A/C Condenser to
Radiator (All) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 N·m (45 in. lbs.)
Thermostat Housing
Bolt 2.0/2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . 12.5 N·m (110 in. lbs.)
2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 N·m (168 in. lbs.)
Water Pump Mounting
Bolts 2.0/2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 N·m (17 in. lbs.)
Water Pump Inlet
Tube toEngine Block
Mounting Bolts . . . . . . . . . . 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Water Pump Inlet
Pipe (Bracketto Cylinder Head
Screws)—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . 14 N·m (123 in. lbs.)
Fan Module to Radiator (All) . . . . 7 N·m (65 in. lbs.)
Short Fan Motor to Shroud
Retaining Screws . . . . . . . . . . . 3 N·m (25 in. lbs.)
Tall Fan Motor to Shroud
Retaining Screws . . . . . . . . . . . 7 N·m (65 in. lbs.)
Transmission Oil Cooler
Hose Clamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 N·m (18 in. lbs.)
SPECIAL TOOLS
COOLING
Accessory Drive Belt Tension GaugeC-4162
JA
BATTERY 8A - 1
BATTERY
GENERAL INFORMATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
. . . . 1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
BATTERY IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD) . . . . . . . . 2
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
BATTERY BLANKET HEATER INSPECTION . . . . 2
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
BATTERY IGNITION OFF DRAW TESTS
. . . . . . 4
BATTERY LOAD TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
CONTENTS page page
BATTERY OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TEST
. . . . 7
SERVICE PROCEDURES
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
CHARGING COMPLETELY DISCHARGED
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
VISUAL INSPECTION AND SERVICE . . . . . . . . . 8
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
BATTERY TRAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
BATTERY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
SPECIFICATIONS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
GENERAL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION
The battery stores, stabilizes, and delivers electrical current to operate various electrical systems in the vehicle. The determination of whether a battery is good or bad is made by its ability to accept a charge. It also must supply high-amperage current for a long enough period to be able to start the vehicle. The capability of the battery to store electrical current comes from a chemical reaction. This reaction takes place between the sulfuric acid solution
(electrolyte) and the lead +/- plates in each cell of the battery. As the battery discharges, the plates react with the acid from the electrolyte. When the charging system charges the battery, the water is converted to sulfuric acid in the battery. The concentration of acid in the electrolyte is measured as specific gravity using a hydrometer. The specific gravity indicates the battery’s state-of-charge. The OE battery is sealed and water cannot be added.
The battery is vented to release gases that are created when the battery is being charged and discharged. The battery top, posts, and terminals should be cleaned when other under hood maintenance is performed.
When the electrolyte level is below the top of the plates, the battery must be replaced. The battery must be completely charged, and the battery side, posts, and cable terminals must be cleaned before diagnostic procedures are performed.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
WARNING:
DO NOT ALLOW JUMPER CABLE CLAMPS TO
TOUCH EACH OTHER WHEN CONNECTED TO A
BOOSTER SOURCE.
DO NOT USE OPEN FLAME NEAR BATTERY.
REMOVE METALLIC JEWELRY WORN ON
HANDS OR WRISTS TO AVOID INJURY BY ACCI-
DENTAL ARCING OF BATTERY CURRENT.
WHEN USING A HIGH OUTPUT BOOSTING
DEVICE, DO NOT ALLOW THE DISABLED VEHI-
CLE’S BATTERY TO EXCEED 16 VOLTS. PER-
SONAL INJURY OR DAMAGE TO ELECTRICAL
SYSTEM CAN RESULT.
TO PROTECT THE HANDS FROM BATTERY
ACID, A SUITABLE PAIR OF HEAVY DUTY RUB-
BER GLOVES, NOT THE HOUSEHOLD TYPE,
SHOULD BE WORN WHEN REMOVING OR SER-
VICING A BATTERY. SAFETY GLASSES ALSO
SHOULD BE WORN.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
BATTERY BLANKET HEATER
The blanket heater is used with Alaska and Canada cold weather packages. The 110 volt A.C. blanket heater is used to improve the battery cold start ability. This vehicle has an electronic voltage regulator which controls battery charging. ONLY CHRYSLER approved battery blanket/block heater combination should be used. It is designed to provide optimum charging system performance in very cold ambient temperatures below -17.8°C (0°F). The addition of an aftermarket battery heater or engine block heater
BATTERY BLANKET HEATER
BATTERY
8A - 2 BATTERY
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued) will adversely affect battery charging and will result in battery discharge or damage.
CHARGER CAPACITY
A charger which can supply only five amperes will require a much longer period of charging than a charger that can supply 20 amperes or more.
BATTERY IGNITION OFF DRAW (IOD)
A completely normal vehicle will have a small amount of current drain on the battery with the key out of the ignition. It can range from 15 to 30 milliamperes after all the modules time out. If a vehicle will not be operated for approximately a 20 days, the
IOD fuse should be disconnected to eliminate the vehicle electrical drain on the battery. The IOD fuse is located in the Junction Block number 5. Removing this fuse will help prevent the battery from discharging during storage.
STATE OF CHARGE
A completely discharged battery requires more charging time than a partially charged battery. Electrolyte is nearly pure water in a completely discharged battery. At first, the charging current amperage will be low. As water is converted back to sulfuric acid inside the battery, the current amp rate will rise. Also, the specific gravity of the electrolyte will rise. Refer to Battery Charging procedures.
CHARGING TIME REQUIRED
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WARNING: NEVER EXCEED 20 AMPS WHEN
CHARGING A COLD -1°C (30°F) BATTERY. PER-
SONAL INJURY MAY RESULT.
The time required to charge a battery will vary depending upon the following factors.
BATTERY BLANKET HEATER INSPECTION
(1) Remove battery. Refer to battery removal.
(2) Remove blanket heater from battery (Fig. 2).
SIZE OF BATTERY
A completely discharged large heavy-duty battery may require more recharging time than a completely discharged small capacity battery, refer to (Fig. 1) for charging times.
CHARGING
AMPERAGE
OPEN CIRCUIT
VOLTAGE
12.34 TO 12.52
12.16 TO 12.33
11.97 TO 12.15
10.00 TO 11.96
10.00 TO 0
5
AMPS
10
AMPS
15
AMPS
20
AMPS
HOUR CHARGING AT 21°C
(77°F)
4.6
HRS.
2.3
HRS.
1.5
HRS.
1.1
HRS.
6.9
HRS.
9.2
HRS.
3.4
HRS.
4.6
HRS.
2.3
HRS.
3.0
HRS.
1.8
HRS.
2.3
HRS.
11.5
HRS.
5.8
HRS.
3.8
HRS.
2.9
HRS.
SEE CHARGING
COMPLETELY DISCHARGE
BATTERY
Fig. 1 Battery Charging Time
TEMPERATURE
A longer time will be needed to charge a battery at
-18°C (0°F) than at 27°C (80°F). When a fast charger is connected to a cold battery, current accepted by battery will be very low at first. In time, the battery will accept a higher rate as battery temperature warms.
Fig. 2 Battery Blanket Heater
WARNING: SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY AND/OR
ELECTRICAL BURNS COULD RESULT IF THESE
PROCEDURES ARE NOT FOLLOWED.
(3) Clean battery blanket heater vinyl cover with a baking soda solution and wipe dry.
(4) Inspect blanket heater for cuts, abrasion or other damage. If heater is damaged replace. If OK, go to Step 5.
(5) Lay heater flat and connect heater to vehicle’s connector.
(6) Connect the power cord to a 110 volt AC source for 3 minutes MAXIMUM.
(7) Disconnect voltage source from the power cord.
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
(8) Immediately feel the heater cover on the inside it should be warm to the touch. If warm, heater is
OK. If not OK, go to Step 9.
(9) Using an Ohmmeter, connect a lead across the two terminals.
(10) Check for a resistance value of 220 to 280
Ohms. If within the resistance value range the blanket is OK. If not OK, replace blanket.
(11) Check extension cord to vehicle for voltage. If extension cord is OK, go to Step 12. If not OK, repair as necessary.
(12) Ensure heater receives voltage from extension cord and power cord. If OK, replace heater. If not
OK, repair as necessary.
BATTERY 8A - 3
BATTERY DISCHARGING
CAUSES OF BATTERY DISCHARGING
It is normal to have up to a 30 milliamperes continuous electrical draw ON the battery. This draw will take place with the ignition in the OFF position, and the courtesy, dome, storage compartments, and engine compartment lights OFF. The continuous draw is due to various electronic features or accessories that require electrical current with the ignition
OFF to function properly. When a vehicle is not used over an extended period of approximately 20 days the
IOD fuse should be disconnected. The IOD fuse is located in the Power Distribution Center and disconnection of this fuse will help prevent the battery from discharge during storage. Refer to Battery Diagnosis and Testing Chart and to the proper procedures.
STEPS
VISUAL INSPECTION
Check for possible damage to battery and clean battery.
BATTERY OPEN CIRCUIT
VOLTAGE TEST
BATTERY CHARGED
BATTERY LOAD TEST
CHARGING A COMPLETELY
DISCHARGED BATTERY
IGNITION OFF DRAW TEST
BATTERY DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
(1) Loose battery post, Cracked battery cover or case, Leaks or Any other physical
(2) Battery OK.
(1) Battery is above 12.40 Volts
(2) Battery is below 12.40 Volts.
(1) Battery accepted Charge.
(2) Battery will not accept charge
(1) Acceptable minimum voltage.
(2) Unacceptable minimum voltage
(1) Battery accepted charge.
(2) Battery will not accept charge.
(1) IOD is 15-30 Milliamperes.
(2) IOD Exceeds 30 Milliamperes.
CORRECTION
(1) Replace Battery
(2) Check state of charge. Perform
Battery Open Circuit Voltage Test.
(1) Perform the Battery Load Test.
(2) Perform Battery Charging procedure
(1) Perform Battery Open Circuit
Voltage Test.
(2) Perform Charging a Completely
Discharged Battery procedure.
(1) Battery is OK to put in use, perform Battery Ignition Off Draw
Test.
(2) Replace Battery and perform
Battery Ignition Off Draw Test.
(1)Perform Battery Open Circuit
Voltage Test.
(2) Replace Battery.
(1) Vehicle is normal.
(2) Eliminate excess IOD draw.
8A - 4 BATTERY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
ABNORMAL BATTERY DISCHARGING
• Corroded battery posts, cables or terminals.
• Loose or worn generator drive belt.
• Electrical loads that exceed the output of the charging system due to equipment or accessories installed after delivery.
• Slow driving speeds in heavy traffic conditions or prolonged idling with high-amperage electrical systems in use.
• Defective electrical circuit or component causing excess Ignition Off Draw (IOD). Refer to Ignition Off
Draw (IOD).
• Defective charging system.
•
Defective battery.
BATTERY IGNITION OFF DRAW TESTS
High battery current draw with the ignition switch in the OFF position will discharge a battery. After a dead battery is serviced the vehicle Ignition Off Draw
(IOD) should be checked. To determine if a high current draw condition exists then check the vehicle with a multi-meter on the Milliampere Scale.
(1) Verify all electrical accessories are OFF:
• Remove key from ignition switch
• Turn off all lamps
• Trunk compartment, ensure that the trunk compartment lamp is off when the trunk lid is closed
• Engine compartment, ensure that the hood lamp is off when hood is closed
• Glove box, ensure that the glove box compartment lamp is off when the door is closed
• All doors are closed
• Sun visor vanity lamps are OFF
• Allow the Illuminated Entry System to time out in approximately 30 seconds, if equipped.
3).
(2) Disconnect battery negative remote cable (Fig.
CAUTION: Always disconnect the milliampere meter before opening a door.
(3) Using an multi-meter, that has least a milliampere range of 200 mA. Set meter to the highest mA range.
(a) Connect it between the battery negative remote terminal and the battery negative remote stud (Fig. 4).
(b) If the reading is less than 30 milliamperes, system is OK.
(c) If the reading is more than 30 milliamperes, go to High Milliampere Reading.
(4) Each time the milliampere meter is disconnected and connected, all electronic timer functions will be activated for approximately one minute.
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Fig. 3 Disconnect Battery Cable at ShockTower
Fig. 4 Ignition Off Draw Test
HIGH MILLIAMPERE READING
There is either a short circuit or a fault in an electronic module. There are seven fuses in the Power
Distribution Center and Junction Block that feed the modules with ignition off draw.
Ensure that all electronic timer functions are timed out, before testing any of the components.
IN THE POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER
• Automatic Transmission Control Module (20
Amp)
• Power Control Module (20 Amp)
• Hazard Flasher (20 Amp)
IN THE JUNCTION BLOCK:
• Canadian Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) (20
Amp)
• Optional Audio Power Amplifier (20 Amp)
• Interior lamps (10 Amp)
• Instrument Cluster (20 Amp)
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
CAUTION: Always disconnect the milliampere meter before opening a door.
(1) Remove all seven fuses. By removing these fuses all ignition off draw from the vehicle electronics will be disconnected. There should be no reading on the milliampere meter. If no reading go to Step 2. If a reading there is a short circuit. Refer to Group 8W,
Wiring Diagrams.
(2) Install the Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) fuse, if equipped. If meter has no reading go to Step 4. If there is a reading go to Step 3.
(3) Disconnect the DRL module.
(a) If meter has no reading, replace the DRL module.
(b) If meter has a reading, there is a short circuit in the L25 circuit. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring
Diagrams.
(4) Install the Power Amplifier fuse. If meter has no reading go to Step 6. If there is a reading go to
Step 5.
(5) Disconnect the Power Amplifier.
(a) If meter has no reading, replace the Power
Amplifier.
(b) If meter has a reading, there is a short circuit in the F30 circuit. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring
Diagrams.
(6) Install the Interior Lamp fuse. If meter has no reading go to Step 7. If there is a reading go to Step
1.
(a) Disconnect the Radio.
(I) If meter has no reading, replace the Radio.
(II) If meter has a reading, go to Step 2.
(b) Disconnect the Power Sun Roof Module by disconnecting the headliner connector. The connector is located on the back of Junction Block below the fuses.
(I) If meter has no reading, replace the Sun
Roof Module.
(II) If meter has a reading, go to Step 3.
(c) Disconnect Body Control Module.
(I) If meter has no reading, replace the Body
Control Module.
(II) If test lamp does not go out, there is a short circuit in the M1 circuit. Refer to Group
8W, Wiring Diagrams.
(7) Install the Automatic Transmission Control
Module fuse. If meter has no reading go to Step 9. If there is a reading go to Step 8.
(8) Disconnect the Automatic Transmission Control
Module.
BATTERY 8A - 5
(a) If meter has no reading, replace the Automatic Transmission Control Module.
(b) If meter has a reading, there is a short circuit in the A14 circuit. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring
Diagrams.
(9) Install the Powertrain Control Module fuse. If meter has no reading go to Step 11. If there is a reading go to Step 10.
(10) Disconnect the Powertrain Control Module.
(a) If meter has no reading, replace the Powertrain Control Module
(b) If meter has a reading, there is a short circuit in the A14 circuit. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring
Diagrams.
(11) Install the Instrument Cluster fuse. If meter has no reading go to Step 13. If there is a reading go to Step 12.
(12) Disconnect the Instrument Cluster.
(a) If meter has no reading, replace the Instrument Cluster.
(b) If meter has a reading, there is a short circuit in the F33 circuit. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring
Diagrams.
(13) Install the Hazard Flasher fuse. If meter has no reading there is no Ignition Off Draw. If there is a reading go to Step 14.
(14) Disconnect the Hazard Flasher.
(a) If meter has no reading, replace the Hazard
Flasher.
(b) If meter has a reading, there is a short circuit in the A15 circuit. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring
Diagrams.
BATTERY LOAD TEST
A fully charged battery must have cranking capacity. To provide the starter motor and ignition system enough power to start the engine over a broad range of ambient temperatures. A battery load test will verify the actual cranking capability of the battery.
WARNING: IF BATTERY SHOWS SIGNS OF FREEZ-
ING, LEAKING, LOOSE POSTS, OR EXCESSIVELY
LOW ELECTROLYTE LEVEL, DO NOT TEST. ACID
BURNS OR AN EXPLOSIVE CONDITION MAY
RESULT.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative remote cable first. Then disconnect and isolate the positive Jump Start cable.
8A - 6 BATTERY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
(2) Use a suitable Volt/Ammeter/Load tester connected between remote battery terminals (Fig. 5) and
(Fig. 6). Check the open circuit voltage of the battery.
Voltage should be equal to or greater than 12.4 volts.
If below 12.4 volts charge battery, perform the same test at the battery. Remove both battery cables the negative cable first. If the voltage is still below 12.4
perform Battery Charging procedures.
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Fig. 7 Remove Surface Charge from Battery
Fig. 5 Volt-Ammeter-Load Tester
Fig. 6 Volt-Ammeter-Load Tester Connections
(3) Rotate the load control knob of the carbon pile rheostat to apply a 260 amp load. Apply this load for
15 seconds to remove the surface charge from the battery, and return the control knob to off (Fig. 7).
(4) Allow the battery to stabilize for two minutes, and then verify open circuit voltage.
(5) Rotate the load control knob on the tester to maintain 50% (260) of the battery cold crank rating for a minimum 15 seconds (Fig. 8).
(6) After 15 seconds, record the loaded voltage reading and return the load control to off.
(7) Voltage drop will vary according to battery temperature at the time of the load test. Battery temperature can be estimated by the temperature of exposure over the preceding several hours. If the bat-
Fig. 8 Load 50% Cold Crank Rating
tery has been charged, boosted, or loaded a few minutes prior to the test, the battery would be slightly warmer. Refer to Battery Load Test Temperatures
Chart for proper loaded voltage reading.
9.6 volts
9.5 volts
9.4 volts
9.3 volts
9.1 volts
8.9 volts
8.7 volts
8.5 volts
Battery Load Test Temperatures
Temperature
Minimum Voltage
°F
70° and above
60°
50°
40°
30°
20°
10°
0°
°C
21° and above
16°
10°
4°
-1°
-7°
-12°
-18°
BATTERY
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
(8) If battery passes load test, it is in good condition and further tests are not necessary. If it fails load test, it should be replaced.
BATTERY OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TEST
An open circuit voltage no load test shows the state of charge of a battery and whether it is ready for a load test at 50 percent of the battery’s cold crank rating. Refer to Battery Load Test. If a battery has open circuit voltage reading of 12.4 volts or greater, and will not pass the load test, replace the battery because it is defective. To test open circuit voltage, perform the following operation.
(1) Remove both battery cables, negative cable first. Connect a Volt/Ammeter/Load tester (Fig. 9) to the battery posts (Fig. 10).
(2) Allow the battery to stabilize for 2 minutes, and then verify the open circuit voltage (Fig. 11).
(3) This voltage reading will approximate the state of charge of the battery. It will not reveal battery cranking capacity.
BATTERY 8A - 7
Open Circuit Volts
11.7 volts or less
12.0
12.2
12.4
12.6 or more
Percent Charge
0%
25%
50%
75%
100%
Fig. 11 Battery Open Circuit Voltage
SERVICE PROCEDURES
BATTERY CHARGING
A battery is considered fully charged when it will meet all the following requirements.
• It has an open circuit voltage charge of at least
12.4 volts (Fig. 11).
• It passes the 15 second load test, refer to Battery Load Test Temperatures Chart above.
WARNING: DO NOT ASSIST BOOST OR CHARGE
A FROZEN BATTERY.
EXPLOSIVE GASES FORM OVER THE BATTERY,
DO NOT SMOKE, USE FLAME, OR CREATE
SPARKS NEAR BATTERY.
Fig. 9 Testing Open Circuit Voltage
Fig. 10 Volt-Ammeter Load Tester Connections
CAUTION: Disconnect the battery NEGATIVE cable first (Fig. 3) before charging battery to avoid damage to electrical systems. Do not exceed 16.0 volts while charging battery. Refer to the instructions supplied with charging equipment
Battery electrolyte will bubble inside of battery case while being charged properly. If the electrolyte boils violently, or is discharged from the vent holes while charging, immediately reduce charging rate or turn off charger. Evaluate battery condition. Battery damage may occur if charging is excessive.
Some battery chargers are equipped with polarity sensing devices to protect the charger or battery from being damaged if improperly connected. If the battery state of charge is too low for the polarity sensor to detect, the sensor must be bypassed for charger to operate. Refer to operating instructions provided with battery charger being used.
CAUTION: Do not overcharge Battery refer to
Charging Rate Chart.
After the battery has been charged to 12.4 volts or greater, perform a load test to determine cranking capacity. Refer to Battery Load Test in this Group. If the battery will endure a load test, return the battery to use. If battery will not endure a load test, it must be replaced. Properly clean and inspect battery
8A - 8 BATTERY
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued) hold downs, tray, terminals, cables, posts, and top before completing service.
CHARGING COMPLETELY DISCHARGED BATTERY
The following procedure should be used to recharge a completely discharged battery. Unless procedure is properly followed, a good battery may be needlessly replaced (Fig. 12).
Voltage
16.0 volts or more
14.0 to 15.9 volts
13.9 volts or less
Hours up to 4 hrs.
up to 8 hrs.
up to 16 hrs.
Fig. 12 Charging Rate
(1) Measure the voltage at remote cable terminals with a voltmeter accurate to 1/10 volt (Fig. 13). If below 10 volts, charge current will be low, and it could take some time before it accepts a current in excess of a few milliamperes. Such low current may not be detectable on amp meters built into many chargers.
JA
VISUAL INSPECTION AND SERVICE
CAUTION: Do not allow baking soda solution to enter vent holes, as damage to battery can result.
(1) Clean battery with a solution of warm water and baking soda. Apply solution with a bristle brush and allow to soak until acid deposits loosen (Fig. 14).
Rinse with clear water and blot dry with paper toweling. Dispose of toweling in a safe manner. Refer to the WARNINGS on top of battery.
Fig. 13 Voltmeter Accurate to 1/10 Volt (Connected)
(2) Connect charger leads to the remote cables.
Some chargers feature polarity protection circuitry that prevents operation unless charger is connected to battery posts correctly. A completely discharged battery may not have enough voltage to activate this circuitry. This may happen even though the leads are connected properly.
(3) Battery chargers vary in the amount of voltage and current they provide. For the time required for the battery to accept measurable charger current at various voltages, refer to (Fig. 12). If charge current is still not measurable after charging times, the battery should be replaced. If charge current is measurable during charging time, the battery may be good, and charging should be completed in the normal manner.
Fig. 14 Cleaning Battery
(2) Inspect battery case and cover for cracks or leakage. If leakage is present battery must be replaced.
(3) Inspect battery tray for damage caused by acid from battery. If acid damage is present, it will be necessary to clean area with:
• Baking soda solution
• Wire brush
• Scraper
(4) Clean battery terminals with baking soda and suitable cleaning tool.
(5) Inspect cables for damage and broken terminals. Replace damaged, frayed cables and broken terminal.
(6) Inspect battery for proper or damaged hold down ledge.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
BATTERY
REMOVAL
Battery is accessible without removing the tire and wheel.
(1) Make sure ignition switch is in OFF
UNLOCKED position and all accessories are OFF.
BATTERYTRAY FWD BATTERY BLANKET HEATER RETAINER
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
WARNING: NEVER GET UNDER A LIFTED VEHI-
CLE IF NOT SUPPORTED PROPERLY ON SAFETY
STANDS.
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable from remote negative terminal on shock tower (Fig. 3).
(3) Turn steering wheel to the full left position.
(4) Twist the four plastic screws one quarter turn to release shield.
(5) Remove shield.
(6) Disconnect battery blanket heater cord, if equipped (Fig. 15).
BATTERY 8A - 9
(8) Remove bolt attaching the battery strap to the battery hold down bracket. Remove hold down bracket bolt.
(9) Slide battery to rear of tray and lift over lip.
Use care not to tip battery so that the acid will not spill out.
(10) Remove battery.
(11) Remove battery blanket heater if equipped
(Fig. 15).
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Tighten battery cables to 17 N·m (150 in. lbs.) torque.
BATTERY TRAY
Fig. 15 Battery with Blanket Heater
(7) Remove battery negative cable followed by the
REMOVAL
(1) Remove battery, refer to Battery Removal procedures above.
(2) Remove the battery tray attaching bolts (Fig.
16).
(3) Remove battery tray.
(4) Remove battery strap.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
battery positive cable.
Fig. 16 Battery Tray Removal
8A - 10 BATTERY
SPECIFICATIONS
BATTERY SPECIFICATIONS
Load Test
(Amps)
260 Amp
Cold
Cranking
Rating @
-18°C (0°F)
510 Amp
Reserve
Capacity
110 Minutes
COLD CRANK RATING
The current battery can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain a terminal voltage of 7.2 volts or greater at
–18° C (0° F).
RESERVE CAPACITY RATING
The length of time a battery can deliver 25 amps and maintain a minimum terminal voltage of 10.5
volts at 27°C (80°F).
TORQUE
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Battery Hold Down Bolt Clamp Bolt . 14 N·m (160 in.
lbs.)
JA
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STARTING 8B - 1
STARTING
GENERAL INFORMATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
. . . . . . . . . . . 1
NIPPONDENSO STARTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
SUPPLY CIRCUIT AND CONTROL CIRCUIT . . . . 1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
CONTROL CIRCUIT TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
FEED CIRCUIT RESISTANCE TEST . . . . . . . . . . 3
GENERAL INFORMATION
GENERAL INFORMATION
The starting system (Fig. 1) has:
CONTENTS page page
FEED CIRCUIT TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
STARTING SYSTEM TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
STARTER RELAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
SPECIFICATIONS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
TORQUE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
• Clutch Pedal Position Switch with manual transmissions
• Wiring harness
• Battery
• Starter motor with an integral solenoid
These components form two separate circuits. A high amperage circuit that feeds the starter motor up to 300+ amps, and a control circuit that operates on less than 20 amps.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
BOSCH AND MELCO STARTERS
The Bosch and Melco are permanent magnet starter motors. A planetary gear train transmits power between starter motor and pinion shaft. The fields have six permanent magnets. The Bosch is used on 2.0L engines and Melco is used on 2.5L
engines.
NIPPONDENSO STARTER
The Nippondenso is a reduction gear-field coil starter motor and is available on 2.4L engine.
SUPPLY CIRCUIT AND CONTROL CIRCUIT
The starter system consists of two separate circuits:
• A high amperage supply to feed the starter motor.
• A low amperage circuit to control the starter solenoid.
Fig. 1 Starting System Components
• Ignition switch
• Starter relay
• Transmission range sensor, or Park/Neutral
Position switch with automatic transmissions
8B - 2 STARTING
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
CONTROL CIRCUIT TEST
The starter control circuit has:
• Starter solenoid
• Starter relay
• Transmission range sensor, or Park/Neutral
Position switch with automatic transmissions
• Clutch Pedal Position Switch with manual transmissions
• Ignition switch
• Battery
• All related wiring and connections
CAUTION: Before performing any starter tests, the ignition and fuel systems must be disabled.
•
To disable ignition and fuel systems, disconnect the Automatic Shutdown Relay (ASD). The ASD relay is located in the in the Power Distribution Center
(PDC). Refer to the PDC cover for the proper relay location.
STARTER SOLENOID
WARNING: CHECK TO ENSURE THAT THE TRANS-
MISSION IS IN THE PARK POSITION WITH THE
PARKING BRAKE APPLIED
(1) Verify battery condition. Battery must be in good condition with a full charge before performing any starter tests. Refer to Battery Tests.
(2) Perform Starter Solenoid test BEFORE performing the starter relay test.
(3) Raise the vehicle.
(4) Perform a visual inspection of the starter/ starter solenoid for corrosion, loose connections or faulty wiring.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Locate and remove the starter relay from the
Power Distribution Center (PDC). Refer to the PDC label for relay identification and location.
(7) Connect a remote starter switch or a jumper wire between the remote battery positive post and terminal 87 of the starter relay connector.
(a) If engine cranks, starter/starter solenoid is good. Go to the Starter Relay Test.
(b) If engine does not or solenoid chatters, check wiring and connectors from starter relay to starter solenoid for loose or corroded connections. Particularly at starter terminals.
(c) Repeat test. If engine still fails to crank properly, trouble is within starter or starter mounted solenoid, and replace starter.
STARTER RELAY
WARNING: CHECK TO ENSURE THAT THE TRANS-
MISSION IS IN THE PARK POSITION/NEUTRAL
WITH THE PARKING BRAKE APPLIED
RELAY TEST
The starter relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) in the engine compartment. Refer to the PDC label for relay identification and location.
Remove the starter relay from the PDC as described in this group to perform the following tests:
(1) A relay in the de-energized position should have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
(2) Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (electromagnet) should be 75
6
5 ohms. If OK, go to Step
3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
(3) Connect a battery B+ lead to terminals 86 and a ground lead to terminal 85 to energize the relay.
The relay should click. Also test for continuity between terminals 30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A and 30. If OK, refer to Relay
Circuit Test procedure. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
Starter Relay
RELAY CIRCUIT TEST
(1) The relay common feed terminal cavity (30) is connected to battery voltage and should be hot at all times. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the PDC fuse as required.
(2) The relay normally closed terminal (87A) is connected to terminal 30 in the de-energized position, but is not used for this application. Go to Step 3.
(3) The relay normally open terminal (87) is connected to the common feed terminal (30) in the energized position. This terminal supplies battery voltage to the starter solenoid field coils. There should be
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued) continuity between the cavity for relay terminal 87 and the starter solenoid terminal at all times. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open circuit to the starter solenoid as required.
(4) The coil battery terminal (86) is connected to the electromagnet in the relay. It is energized when the ignition switch is held in the Start position. On vehicles with a manual transmission, the clutch pedal must be fully depressed for this test. Check for battery voltage at the cavity for relay terminal 86 with the ignition switch in the Start position, and no voltage when the ignition switch is released to the
On position. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK with an automatic transmission, check for an open or short circuit to the ignition switch and repair, if required.
If the circuit to the ignition switch is OK, see the
Ignition Switch Test procedure in this group. If not
OK with a manual transmission, check the circuit between the relay and the clutch pedal position switch for an open or a short. If the circuit is OK, see the Clutch Pedal Position Switch Test procedure in this group.
(5) The coil ground terminal (85) is connected to the electromagnet in the relay. On vehicles with an automatic transmission, it is grounded through the park/neutral position switch only when the gearshift selector lever is in the Park or Neutral positions. On vehicles with a manual transmission, it is grounded at all times. Check for continuity to ground at the cavity for relay terminal 85. If not OK with an automatic transmission, check for an open or short circuit to the park/neutral position switch and repair, if required. If the circuit is OK, see the Park/Neutral
Position Switch Test procedure in this group. If not
OK with a manual transmission, repair the circuit to ground as required.
SAFETY SWITCHES
For diagnostics,
•
Clutch Pedal Position Switch, refer to Group 6,
Clutch.
•
Park/Neutral Position Switch, refer to Group 21,
Transaxle
STARTING 8B - 3
IGNITION SWITCH
After testing starter solenoid and relay, test ignition switch and wiring. Refer to Group 8D, Ignition
Systems or Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams. Check all wiring for opens or shorts, and all connectors for being loose or corroded.
BATTERY
Refer to Group 8A, Battery for proper procedures.
ALL RELATED WIRING AND CONNECTORS
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams,
FEED CIRCUIT RESISTANCE TEST
Before proceeding with this operation, review
Starting System Test. The following operation will require a voltmeter, accurate to one tenth of a volt.
CAUTION: Before Performing any starter test, the
Ignition and fuel systems must be disabled.
(1) To disable ignition and fuel systems disconnect the Automatic Shutdown Relay (ASD) in the Power
Distribution Center (PDC).
(2) Check that all wiring harnesses and components properly connected. Connect negative lead of voltmeter to battery negative terminal, and positive lead to engine block near the battery cable attaching point (Fig. 2). Rotate and hold the ignition switch in the START position. If voltage reads above 0.2 volt, clean or repair the poor contact at ground cable attaching points. If voltage reading is still above 0.2
volt after correcting poor contacts, replace ground cable.
(3) Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the battery positive terminal, and negative lead to battery positive cable terminal on starter solenoid (Fig. 3).
Rotate and hold the ignition switch in the START position. If voltage reads above 0.2 volt, clean or repair the poor contact at:
•
Battery cable to solenoid connection
•
Battery cable to remote terminal
•
Battery cable to battery
8B - 4 STARTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
If reading is still above 0.2 volt after correcting poor contacts, replace battery positive cable as necessary.
(4) If resistance tests do not detect feed circuit failures, replace starter motor.
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FEED CIRCUIT TEST
The following procedure will require a suitable volt-ampere tester (Fig. 4).
Fig. 2 Test Ground Circuit Resistance
Fig. 4 Volt Ampere Tester
CAUTION: Before Performing any starter test, the
Ignition and fuel systems must be disabled.
(1) Connect a volt-ampere tester (Fig. 4) to the remote battery terminals (Fig. 5). Refer to the operating instructions provided with the tester being used.
Fig. 3 Test Battery Positive Cable Resistance
Fig. 5 Volt-Ampere Tester Connections
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
(2) To disable the ignition and fuel systems, disconnect the Automatic Shutdown Relay (ASD) in the
Power Distribution Center (PDC). Refer to the PDC cover for the proper relay location.
(3) Verify that:
• All lamps and accessories are OFF
• Automatic transmission shift selector is in PARK
• Manual transmission clutch pedal depressed
• Set parking brake
(4) Rotate and hold the ignition switch in the
START position. Observe the volt-ampere tester (Fig.
4).
• Voltage above 9.6 volts, and amperage draw above 280 amps, check for engine seizing or faulty starter.
•
Voltage above 12.4 volts and amperage reads 0 to 10 amps, check for corroded cables and/or bad connections.
• Voltage below 9.6 volts and amperage draw above 300 amps, the problem is the starter. Replace the starter refer to starter removal.
CAUTION: Do not overheat the starter motor or draw the battery voltage below 9.6 volts during cranking operations.
(5) After the starting system problems have been corrected, verify the battery state-of-charge and charge battery if necessary. Disconnect all testing equipment and connect ASD relay. Start the vehicle several times to assure the problem has been corrected.
STARTING SYSTEM TEST
For circuit descriptions and diagrams, refer to
8W-21, Starting System in Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, REFER TO GROUP 8M PASSIVE
RESTRAINT SYSTEMS BEFORE ATTEMPTING
STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR
INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR
SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRE-
CAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIR-
BAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
STARTING 8B - 5
INSPECTION
Before removing any unit from the starting system for repair or diagnosis, perform the following inspections:
• Battery - Visually inspect the battery for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded cable connections. Determine the state-of-charge and cranking capacity of the battery. Charge or replace the battery, if required. Refer to Group 8A, Battery for more information.
• Ignition Switch - Visually inspect the ignition switch for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections.
•
Clutch Pedal Position Switch - Visually inspect the clutch pedal position switch for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections.
•
Park/Neutral Position Switch - Visually inspect the park/neutral position switch for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections.
• Starter Relay - Visually inspect the starter relay for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections.
• Starter - Visually inspect the starter for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections.
• Starter Solenoid - Visually inspect the starter solenoid for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections.
• Wiring - Visually inspect the wire harness for damage. Repair or replace any faulty wiring, as required.
8B - 6 STARTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
CONDITION
STARTER FAILS TO ENGAGE.
STARTER ENGAGES, FAILS TO
TURN ENGINE.
STARTER ENGAGES, SPINS
OUT BEFORE ENGINE STARTS.
STARTER DOES NOT
DISENGAGE.
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STARTING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
POSSIBLE CAUSE
1. Battery discharged or faulty.
2. Starting circuit wiring faulty.
3. Starter relay faulty.
4. Ignition switch faulty.
5. Park/Neutral position switch (auto trans) faulty or mis-adjusted.
6. Clutch pedal position switch (man trans) faulty.
7. Starter solenoid faulty.
8. Starter assembly faulty.
1. Battery discharged or faulty.
2. Starting circuit wiring faulty.
3. Starter assembly faulty.
4. Engine seized.
1. Broken teeth on starter ring gear.
2. Starter assembly faulty.
1. Starter improperly installed.
2. Starter relay faulty.
3. Ignition switch faulty.
4. Starter assembly faulty.
CORRECTION
1. Refer to Group 8A, Battery.
Charge or replace battery, if required.
2. Refer to Feed Circuit Resistance
Test and Feed Circuit Test in this section.
3. Refer to Relay Test, in this section. Replace relay, if necessary.
4. Refer to Ignition Switch Test, in
Group 8D Ignition System or Group
8W, Wiring Diagrams. Replace switch, if necessary.
5. Refer Park/Neutral Position Switch
Test, in Group 21, Transaxle.
Replace switch, if necessary.
6. Refer to Clutch Pedal Position
Switch Test, in Group 6, Clutch.
Replace switch, if necessary.
7. Refer to Solenoid Test, in this section. Replace starter assembly, if necessary.
8. If all other starting system components and circuits check OK, replace starter assembly.
1. Refer to Group 8A, Battery.
Charge or replace battery as necessary.
2. Refer to the Feed Circuit
Resistance Test and the Feed Circuit
Test in this section. Repair as necessary.
3. If all other starting system components and circuits check OK, replace starter assembly.
4. Refer to Group 9 Engine, for diagnostic and service procedures.
1. Remove starter. Inspect ring gear and replace if necessary.
2. If all other starting system components and circuits check OK, replace starter assembly.
1. Install starter. Tighten starter mounting hardware to correct torque specifications.
2. Refer to Relay Test, in this section. Replace relay, if necessary.
3. Refer to Ignition Switch Test, in
Group 8D, Ignition System. Replace switch, if necessary.
4. If all other starting system components and circuits check OK, replace starter assembly.
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VIEW A
STARTING 8B - 7
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
SAFETY SWITCHES
For Removal and Installation of the:
• Clutch Position Switch, refer to Group 6, Clutch.
• Park/Neutral Switch, refer to Group 21, Transaxle.
STARTER
CAUTION: The generator output terminal must be connected to the battery positive terminal of the starter solenoid. For the charging and cranking systems to operate properly.
(4) Disconnect push on solenoid connector.
(5) Remove two bolts attaching starter to transmission housing and remove starter from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Clean corrosion/dirt from wire terminals before installing wiring to the solenoid.
2.0 ENGINE – WITH MANUAL TRANSAXLE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the remote battery negative cable from the terminal on shock tower (Fig. 6).
(2) Remove air cleaner resonator, refer to Group
14, Fuel.
(3) Remove the battery positive cable nut from starter. Remove battery positive cable and generator output wire from starter (Fig. 7).
Fig. 6 Remove Remote Battery Cable at Shock
Tower
Fig. 7 Wire Terminal Connection – 2.0L Engine
8B - 8 STARTING
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
2.0L ENGINE WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE
– 2.4L ENGINE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable from remote negative terminal on shock tower (Fig. 6).
(2) Remove air cleaner resonator, refer to Group
14, Fuel.
(3) Remove three Transmission Control Module
(TCM) mounting screws. Move TCM to provide access to top starter mounting bolt. DO NOT disconnect
TCM wiring.
(4) Remove top bolt attaching starter to transmission housing (Fig. 8).
(5) Raise vehicle.
(6) Remove battery positive cable nut from starter and remove cable.
(7) Disconnect push on solenoid connector.
(8) Remove the bottom bolt attaching starter to transmission housing (Fig. 8).
(9) Remove starter from vehicle.
(5) Install bottom starter mounting bolt and tighten to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
(6) Clean corrosion/dirt from wire terminals before installing wiring to the solenoid.
(7) Connect battery positive cable to solenoid post
(Fig. 8).
(8) Connect the push-on solenoid connector.
(9) Lower vehicle.
(10) Tighten top starter bolt to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Install TCM and the mounting screws.
(12) Install air cleaner resonator, refer to Group
14, Fuel.
(13) Connect battery remote cable to the remote terminal.
2.5L ENGINE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable from remote negative terminal on shock tower (Fig. 6).
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Remove oil filter.
(4) Remove battery positive cable nut from starter and remove cable (Fig. 9).
(5) Disconnect push on solenoid connector.
(6) Remove three bolts attaching starter to transmission housing and remove starter from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Clean corrosion/dirt from wire terminals before installing wiring to the solenoid.
Fig. 8 Wire Terminal Connection
INSTALLATION
(1) With vehicle is raised, set starter face into transmission housing.
(2) Lower vehicle.
(3) Install top starter mounting bolt but do not tighten.
(4) Raise vehicle.
Fig. 9 Wire Terminal Connection – 2.5L Engine
STARTER RELAY
The relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Refer to the PDC cover for relay location.
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STARTING 8B - 9
SPECIFICATIONS
STARTER
Manufacturer
Engine
Application
Power rating
Voltage
Brushes
Drive
BOSCH
2.0L
0 .95 Kw
12 VOLTS
4
Planetary
Gear Train
MELCO
2.5L
1.2 Kw
12 VOLTS
4
Planetary
Gear Train
NIPPONDENSO
2.4L
1.4 Kw
12 VOLTS
4
Offset Gear
Reduced
Engine Amperage Draw Test ……150-280 Amps*
Engine should be up to operating temperature.
Extremely heavy oil or tight engine will increase starter amperage draw.
TORQUE
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Starter Mounting Bolts . . . . . . . . 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Starter Solenoid Battery Nut . . . 10 N·m (90 in. lbs.)
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CHARGING SYSTEM 8C - 1
CHARGING SYSTEM
GENERAL INFORMATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR . . . . . . . . . 2
. . . . . . . . . . 1
. . . . . . . 2
GENERATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR . . . . . . . . . 7
CHARGING SYSTEM RESISTANCE TESTS . . . . 6
CHARGING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
CONTENTS page page
CURRENT OUTPUT TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM TEST . . . . . 7
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
. . . . . . . . 12
GENERATOR—2.4L ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
GENERATOR—3.3/3.8 L ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . 11
SPECIFICATIONS
GENERATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
GENERAL INFORMATION
OVERVIEW
The battery, starting, and charging systems operate with one another, and must be tested as a complete system. In order for the vehicle to start and charge properly, all of the components involved in these systems must perform within specifications.
Group 8A covers the battery, Group 8B covers the starting system, and Group 8C covers the charging system. Refer to Group 8W - Wiring Diagrams for complete circuit descriptions and diagrams. We have separated these systems to make it easier to locate the information you are seeking within this Service
Manual. However, when attempting to diagnose any of these systems, it is important that you keep their interdependency in mind.
The diagnostic procedures used in these groups include the most basic conventional diagnostic methods to the more sophisticated On-Board Diagnostics
(OBD) built into the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM). Use of an induction ammeter, volt/ohmmeter, battery charger, carbon pile rheostat (load tester), and 12-volt test lamp may be required.
All OBD-sensed systems are monitored by the
PCM. Each monitored circuit is assigned a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). The PCM will store a DTC in electronic memory for any failure it detects. See the
On-Board Diagnostics Test in Group 8C - Charging
System for more information.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
CHARGING SYSTEM OPERATION
The charging system consists of:
• Generator
• Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) circuitry within the Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
• Ignition switch (refer to Group 8D, Ignition System for information)
•
Battery (refer to Group 8A, Battery for information)
•
Battery temperature sensor
•
Voltmeter (refer to Group 8E, Instrument Panel and Gauges for information)
• Wiring harness and connections (refer to Group
8W, Wiring for information)
The charging system is turned on and off with the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, battery voltage is applied to the generator rotor through one of the two field terminals to produce a magnetic field. The generator is driven by the engine through a serpentine belt and pulley arrangement.
The amount of DC current produced by the generator is controlled by the EVR (field control) circuitry, contained within the PCM. This circuitry is connected in series with the second rotor field terminal and ground.
All vehicles are equipped with On-Board Diagnostics (OBD). All OBD-sensed systems, including the
EVR (field control) circuitry, are monitored by the
PCM. Each monitored circuit is assigned a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). The PCM will store a DTC in electronic memory for any failure it detects. See On-
Board Diagnostic System Test in this group for more information.
GENERATOR
The generator is belt-driven by the engine. It is serviced only as a complete assembly. If the generator fails for any reason, the entire assembly must be replaced.
8C - 2 CHARGING SYSTEM
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
As the energized rotor begins to rotate within the generator, the spinning magnetic field induces a current into the windings of the stator coil. Once the generator begins producing sufficient current, it also provides the current needed to energize the rotor.
The Y type stator winding connections deliver the induced AC current to 3 positive and 3 negative diodes for rectification. From the diodes, rectified DC current is delivered to the vehicle electrical system through the generator, battery, and ground terminals.
Noise emitting from the generator may be caused by:
• Worn, loose or defective bearings
•
Loose or defective drive pulley
•
Incorrect, worn, damaged or misadjusted drive belt
•
Loose mounting bolts
•
Misaligned drive pulley
• Defective stator or diode
BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The battery temperature sensor is used to determine the battery temperature. This temperature data, along with data from monitored line voltage, is used by the PCM to vary the battery charging rate.
System voltage will be higher at colder temperatures and is gradually reduced at warmer temperatures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
CHARGING SYSTEM
When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, battery potential will register on the voltmeter.
During engine cranking a lower voltage will appear on the meter. With the engine running, a voltage reading higher than the first reading (ignition in ON) should register.
The following are possible symptoms of a charging system fault:
• The voltmeter does not operate properly
• An undercharged or overcharged battery condition occurs.
Remember that an undercharged battery is often caused by:
•
Accessories being left on with the engine not running
• A faulty or improperly adjusted switch that allows a lamp to stay on. See Ignition-Off Draw Test in Group 8A, Battery for more information.
The following procedures may be used to correct a problem diagnosed as a charging system fault.
ELECTRONIC VOLTAGE REGULATOR
The Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) is not a separate component. It is actually a voltage regulating circuit located within the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM). The EVR is not serviced separately. If replacement is necessary, the PCM must be replaced.
Operation: The amount of DC current produced by the generator is controlled by EVR circuitry contained within the PCM. This circuitry is connected in series with the generators second rotor field terminal and its ground.
Voltage is regulated by cycling the ground path to control the strength of the rotor magnetic field. The
EVR circuitry monitors system line voltage and battery temperature (refer to Battery Temperature Sensor for more information). It then compensates and regulates generator current output accordingly. Also see Charging System Operation for additional information.
INSPECTION
(1) Inspect condition of battery cable terminals, battery posts, connections at engine block, starter solenoid and relay. They should be clean and tight.
Repair as required.
(2) Inspect all fuses in the fuseblock module and
Power Distribution Center (PDC) for tightness in receptacles. They should be properly installed and tight. Repair or replace as required.
(3) Inspect the electrolyte level in the battery.
Replace battery if electrolyte level is low.
(4) Inspect generator mounting bolts for tightness.
Replace or tighten bolts if required. Refer to the Generator Removal/Installation section of this group for torque specifications.
(5) Inspect generator drive belt condition and tension. Tighten or replace belt as required. Refer to
Belt Tension Specifications in Group 7, Cooling System.
(6) Inspect automatic belt tensioner (if equipped).
Refer to Group 7, Cooling System for information.
(7) Inspect connections at generator field, battery output, and ground terminals. Also check ground connection at engine. They should all be clean and tight.
Repair as required.
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
CHARGING SYSTEM 8C - 3
8C - 4 CHARGING SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
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Charging System Test
SHORT NO
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
OUTPUT
CHARGING SYSTEM 8C - 5
Overcharge Test
8C - 6 CHARGING SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
CHARGING SYSTEM RESISTANCE TESTS
Fig. 1 Generator Terminals
VOLTMETER
These tests will show the amount of voltage drop across the generator output wire from the generator output (B+) terminal to the battery positive post.
They will also show the amount of voltage drop from the ground (-) terminal on the generator (Fig. 1) to the battery negative post.
Fig. 2 Battery Voltage Test—Typical
A voltmeter with a 0–18 volt DC scale should be used for these tests. By repositioning the voltmeter test leads, the point of high resistance (voltage drop) can easily be found.
Test points on the generator may be reached by either removing the air cleaner housing or below by raising the vehicle on a hoist.
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PREPARATION
(1) Before starting test, make sure battery is in good condition and is fully-charged. See Group 8A,
Battery for more information.
(2) Check condition of battery cables at battery.
Clean if necessary.
(3) Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.
(4) Shut engine off.
(5) Connect an engine tachometer.
(6) Fully engage the parking brake.
TEST
(1) Start engine.
(2) Place heater blower in high position.
(3) Turn on headlamps and place in high-beam position.
(4) Turn vehicle interior lamps on.
(5) Bring engine speed up to 2400 rpm and hold.
(6) Testing (+ positive) circuitry:
(a) Touch the negative lead of voltmeter directly to battery positive POST (Fig. 2).
(b) Touch the positive lead of voltmeter to the
B+ output terminal stud on the generator (not the terminal mounting nut). Voltage should be no higher than 0.6 volts. If voltage is higher than 0.6
volts, touch test lead to terminal mounting stud nut and then to the wiring connector. If voltage is now below 0.6 volts, look for dirty, loose or poor connection at this point. Also check condition of the generator output wire-to-battery bullet connector.
Refer to Group 8, Wiring for connector location. A voltage drop test may be performed at each (ground) connection in this circuit to locate the excessive resistance.
(7) Testing (- ground) circuitry:
(a) Touch the positive lead of voltmeter directly to battery negative POST .
(b) Touch the negative lead of voltmeter to the generator case. Voltage should be no higher than
0.3 volts. If voltage is higher than 0.3 volts, touch test lead to generator case and then to the engine block. If voltage is now below 0.3 volts, look for dirty, loose or poor connection at this point. A voltage drop test may be performed at each connection in this circuit to locate the excessive resistance.
This test can also be performed between the generator case and the engine. If test voltage is higher than 0.3 volts, check for corrosion at generator mounting points or loose generator mounting.
CURRENT OUTPUT TEST
The current output test will determine if the charging system can deliver its minimum test current (amperage) output. Refer to the Specifications section at the end of this group for minimum test current (amperage) requirements.
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
The first part of this test will determine the combined amperage output of both the generator and the
Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) circuitry.
PREPARATION
(1) Determine if any Diagnostic Trouble Codes
(DTC) exist. To determine a DTC, refer to On-Board
Diagnostics in this group. For repair, refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures manual.
(2) Before starting test, make sure battery is in good condition and is fully-charged. See Group 8A,
Battery for more information.
(3) Check condition of battery cables at battery.
Clean if necessary.
(4) Perform the previous Output Wire Resistance
Test (voltage drop test) (Fig. 3). This will ensure clean and tight generator/battery electrical connections.
(5) Be sure the generator drive belt is properly tensioned. Refer to Group 7, Cooling System for information.
(6) A volt/amp tester equipped with both a battery load control (carbon pile rheostat) and an inductivetype pickup clamp (ammeter probe) will be used for this test. Refer to operating instructions supplied with tester. When using a tester equipped with an inductive-type clamp, removal of wiring at the generator will not be necessary.
(7) Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature.
(8) Shut engine off.
(9) Turn off all electrical accessories and all vehicle lighting.
(10) Connect the volt/amp tester leads to the battery. Be sure the carbon pile rheostat control is in the
OPEN or OFF position before connecting leads. See
Load Test in Group 8A, Battery for more information.
Also refer to the operating instructions supplied with test equipment.
(11) Connect the inductive clamp (ammeter probe).
Refer to the operating instructions supplied with test equipment.
(12) If volt/amp tester is not equipped with an engine tachometer, connect a separate tachometer to the engine.
TEST
(1) Perform the previous test Preparation.
(2) Fully engage the parking brake.
(3) Start engine.
(4) Bring engine speed to 2500 rpm.
(5) With engine speed held at 2500 rpm, slowly adjust the rheostat control (load) on the tester to obtain the highest amperage reading. Do not allow voltage to drop below 12 volts. Record the reading.
This load test must be performed within 15 sec-
CHARGING SYSTEM 8C - 7
onds to prevent damage to test equipment. On certain brands of test equipment, this load will be applied automatically. Refer to the operating manual supplied with test equipment.
(6) The ammeter reading must meet the Minimum
Test Amps specifications as displayed in the Generator Ratings chart. This can be found in the Specifications section at the end of this group. A label stating a part reference number is attached to the generator case. On some engines this label may be located on the bottom of the case. Compare this reference number to the Generator Ratings chart.
(7) Rotate the load control to the OFF position.
(8) Continue holding engine speed at 2500. If EVR circuitry is OK, amperage should drop below 15–20 amps. With all electrical accessories and vehicle lighting off, this could take several minutes of engine operation. If amperage did not drop, refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures manual for testing.
(9) Remove volt/amp tester.
If minimum amperage could not be met, refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures manual for testing.
BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR
To perform a complete test of this sensor and its circuitry, refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures manual. To test the sensor only, refer to the following:
(1) Disconnect the sensor from the engine harness.
(2) Attach ohmmeter leads to the wire terminals of the sensor.
(3) At room temperature of 25° C (75–80° F), an ohmmeter reading of 9K to 11K ohms should be observed.
(4) If reading is above or below the specification, replace the sensor.
(5) Refer to the Removal and Installation section for procedures.
ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM TEST
GENERAL INFORMATION
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) monitors critical input and output circuits of the charging system, making sure they are operational. A Diagnostic
Trouble Code (DTC) is assigned to each input and output circuit monitored by the OBD system. Some circuits are checked continuously and some are checked only under certain conditions.
If the OBD system senses that a monitored circuit is bad, it will put a DTC into electronic memory. The
DTC will stay in electronic memory as long as the circuit continues to be bad. The PCM is programmed to clear the memory after 50 engine starts if the problem does not occur again.
CHECK WIRING DIANO CHECK WIRING CONNEC-
8C - 8 CHARGING SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
LESS REPAIR
VOLTAGE
AT 142 YES CUIT A142 ON THE GENERAYES AT
CHECK POWERTRAIN CON-
DROP ABOVE
0.6 VOLTS?
TROL MODULE PIN 4 FOR COR-
ROSION OR DAMAGE.
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Fig. 3 Voltage Drop Test
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) are two-digit numbers flashed on the malfunction indicator (Check
Engine) lamp that identify which circuit is bad. Refer to Group 25, On Board Diagnostic for more information. A DTC description can also be read using the
DRB scan tool. Refer to the appropriate Powertrain
Diagnostic Procedures manual for information.
CHARGING SYSTEM 8C - 9
A DTC does not identify which component in a circuit is bad. Thus, a DTC should be treated as a symptom, not as the cause for the problem. In some cases, because of the design of the diagnostic test procedure, a DTC can be the reason for another DTC to be set. Therefore, it is important that the test procedures be followed in sequence, to understand what caused a DTC to be set.
See the Generator Diagnostic Trouble Code chart
(Fig. 4) for DTC’s which apply to the charging system. Refer to the Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures manual to diagnose an on-board diagnostic system trouble code.
Diagnostic Trouble Code DRB Scan Tool Display Description of Diagnostic Trouble Code
Fig. 4
12*
41**
46**
Battery Disconnect
Generator Field Not
Switching Properly
Charging System Voltage
Too High
Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles.
An open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit.
Battery voltage sense input above target charging voltage during engine operation.
47** Charging System Voltage
Too Low
Battery voltage sense input below target charging during engine operation. Also, no significant change detected in battery voltage during active test of generator output.
Completion of fault code display on Check Engine lamp.
55* N/A
*Check Engine lamp will not illuminate at all times if this Diagnostic Trouble Code was recorded. Cycle ignition key as described in manual and observe code flashed by Check Engine lamp.
**Check Engine lamp will illuminate during enging operation if this Diagnostic Trouble Code was recorded.
Generator Diagnostic Trouble Code
TEST
8C - 10 CHARGING SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
RETRIEVING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
To start this function, cycle the ignition switch ON-
OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. This will cause any DTC stored in the PCM memory to be displayed.
The malfunction indicator (Check Engine) lamp will display a DTC by flashing on and off. There is a short pause between flashes and a longer pause between digits. All DTC’s displayed are two-digit numbers, with a four-second pause between codes.
An example of a DTC is as follows:
(1) Lamp on for 2 seconds, then turns off.
(2) Lamp flashes 4 times pauses and then flashes
1 time.
(3) Lamp pauses for 4 seconds, flashes 4 times, pauses, then flashes 7 times.
(4) The two DTC’s are 41 and 47. Any number of
DTC’s can be displayed, as long as they are in memory. The lamp will flash until all stored DTC’s are displayed, then it will flash a DTC 55 to indicate the test is complete.
ERASING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
The DRB Scan Tool must be used to erase a DTC.
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Fig. 6 Wire Connectors
(5) Remove nut holding B+ wire to terminal on back of generator.
(6) Separate B+ wire from generator terminal.
(7) Remove nut holding top of generator to adjustable T-bolt (Fig. 7).
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
GENERATOR—2.4L ENGINE
REMOVAL
(1) Release hood latch and open hood.
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable (Fig. 5).
(3) Remove accessory drive belt, refer to Group 7,
Cooling System for proper procedures.
(4) Disconnect the push-in field wire connector from back of generator (Fig. 6).
Fig. 5 Removal/Installation of Battery Cables
Fig. 7 Generator–2.4L Engine
(8) Remove bolt holding bottom generator pivot to lower mount.
(9) Remove generator.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place generator in position on vehicle.
(2) Install bolt to hold bottom generator pivot to lower mount.
(3) Install nut to hold top of generator to adjustable T-bolt.
(4) Place B+ wire in position on generator terminal.
(5) Install nut to hold B+ wire to terminal on back of generator.
(6) Connect the push-in field wire connector onto back of generator.
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(7) Install accessory drive belt, refer to Group 7,
Cooling System for proper procedures.
(8) Connect battery negative cable.
(9) Verify generator charge rate.
GENERATOR—3.0L ENGINE
CHARGING SYSTEM 8C - 11
(5) Install bolt to hold top of generator to mount bracket.
(6) Install accessory drive belt, refer to Group 7,
Cooling System for proper procedures.
(7) Install windshield wiper housing, refer to
Group 8K, Windshield Wipers and Washers for proper procedures.
(8) Connect battery negative cable.
(9) Verify generator charge rate.
REMOVAL
(1) Release hood latch and open hood.
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable (Fig. 5).
(3) Remove windshield wiper housing, refer to
Group 8K, Windshield Wipers and Washers for proper procedures.
(4) Remove accessory drive belt, refer to Group 7,
Cooling System for proper procedures.
(5) Remove bolt holding top of generator to mount bracket (Fig. 8).
GENERATOR—3.3/3.8 L ENGINE
REMOVAL
(1) Release hood latch and open hood.
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable (Fig. 5).
(3) Remove windshield wiper housing, refer to
Group 8K, Windshield Wipers and Washers for proper procedures.
(4) Remove accessory drive belt, refer to Group 7,
Cooling System for proper procedures.
(5) Remove bolt holding top of generator mount bracket to engine air intake plenum (Fig. 9).
Fig. 8 Generator–3.0LEngine
(6) Remove bolt holding bottom of generator to lower pivot bracket (Fig. 6).
(7) Disengage push-in field wire connector from back of generator.
(8) Remove nut holding B+ wire terminal to back of generator.
(9) Remove B+ terminal from generator.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place B+ terminal in position on generator.
(2) Install nut to hold B+ wire terminal to back of generator
(3) Connect the push-in field wire connector into back of generator.
(4) Install bolt to hold bottom of generator to lower pivot bracket.
Fig. 9 GeneratorMounting Bracket
(6) Remove bolts holding outside of generator mount bracket to generator mount plate.
(7) Remove bolt holding top of generator to mount bracket.
(8) Remove generator mount bracket from vehicle.
(9) Rotate generator toward rear dash panel.
(10) Disconnect the push-in field wire connector from back of generator (Fig. 8).
(11) Remove nut holding B+ wire terminal to back of generator.
(12) Separate B+ terminal from generator.
8C - 12 CHARGING SYSTEM
JA
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(13) Remove bolt holding bottom of generator to lower pivot bracket (Fig. 10).
Fig. 10 Generatorpivot Bolt
(14) Remove generator from vehicle (Fig. 11).
(4) Install nut to hold B+ wire terminal to back of generator.
(5) Connect the push-in field wire connector into back of generator.
(6) Rotate generator forward away from dash panel.
(7) Place generator mount bracket in position on vehicle.
(8) Install bolt to hold top of generator to mount bracket.
(9) Install bolts to hold outside of generator mount bracket to generator mount plate.
(10) Install bolt to hold top of generator mount bracket to engine air intake plenum.
(11) Install accessory drive belt, refer to Group 7,
Cooling System for proper procedures.
(12) Install windshield wiper housing, refer to
Group 8K, Windshield Wipers and Washers for proper procedures.
(13) Connect battery negative cable.
(14) Verify generator charge rate.
BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on host.
(2) Remove screw from sensor.
(3) Disconnect electrical connector from sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Connect electrical connector to sensor.
(2) Install screw and tighten.
(3) Lower vehicle.
Fig. 11 Generator–3.3/3.8L Engine
INSTALLATION
(1) Place generator in position on vehicle.
(2) Install bolt to hold bottom of generator to lower pivot bracket.
(3) Place B+ terminal in position on generator.
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CHARGING SYSTEM 8C - 13
SPECIFICATIONS
GENERATOR
Type
Nippondenso 90 A HS
Nippondenso 120 A HS
Part number is located on the side of the generator.
Part Number
4686098
4686099
Amperage output
86 Amp
98 Amp
TORQUE
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Battery Hold Down Bolt . . . . . . 14 N·m (125 in. lbs.)
Generator Mounting Bolts . . . . . 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Generator B+ Terminal . . . . . . . . 9 N·m (75 in. lbs.)
Starter Mounting Bolts . . . . . . . . 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
Starter Solenoid Battery Nut . . . 10 N·m (90 in. lbs.)
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CHARGING SYSTEM
CONTENTS page
SPECIFICATIONS
GENERATOR RATINGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
SPECIFICATIONS
GENERATOR RATINGS
TYPE
DENSO
DENSO
DENSO
MELCO
The Test Specifications are:
1. 2500
6
20 RPMS
2. Voltage Output 15V
6
.3V
3. Field Current 5amps
6
.1amp
ENGINES
2.0L
2.4L
2.0 & 2.5 W/Heated Seat
2.5L
CHARGING SYSTEM 8C - 1
MINIMUM TEST AMPS
74 amps
74 amps
90 amps
74 amps
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IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 1
IGNITION SYSTEM
GENERAL INFORMATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
. . . . . . . . . . . 5
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.0/2.4L
. . . . 8
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.5L . . . . . . . 9
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR . . . . . . . . . . 6
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.5L . . . . . 7
ELECTRONIC IGNITION COIL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR . . 9
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
IGNITION INTERLOCK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR—2.0L . . 10
SENSOR—2.4/2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
KNOCK SENSOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
LOCK KEY CYLINDER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
. . . . 2
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
SPARK PLUGS—2.0/2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
SPARK PLUGS—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)
. . . . . . 11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
. . . . . . . 14
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
TEST—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR . 14
FAILURE TO START TEST—2.0/2.4L
. . . . . . . . 13
FAILURE TO START TEST—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . 14
. . . . . . . . . . . 14
. . . . . . 14
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSOR TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
SPARK PLUG CONDITION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
TESTING FOR SPARK AT COIL—2.0/2.4L
. . . . 11
TESTING FOR SPARK AT COIL—2.5L . . . . . . . 12
CONTENTS page page
. . . . . . . . . . . 14
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
. . . . . . . . . . 21
. . . . 22
. . . . 21
. . . . . . . . 25
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.0/2.4 L . 23
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.5L . . . . 23
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
DISTRIBUTOR—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
SENSOR—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
IGNITION COIL—2.0/2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
IGNITION INTERLOCK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
IGNITION SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
. . . . . . 26
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
LOCK KEY CYLINDER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSOR—2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSOR—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
MAP/IAT SENSOR—SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE . . . . . . . . . 17
SPARK PLUG CABLES—2.0/2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . 17
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
SPARK PLUGS AND CABLES—2.5L . . . . . . . . . 18
SPARK PLUG—2.0/2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
. . . . . . . . . . . 26
SPECIFICATIONS
FIRING ORDER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE—2.0L . . . . 32
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE—2.4L . . . . 32
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE—2.5L . . . . 32
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
TORQUE SPECIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
VECI LABEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
POWER DISTRIBUTION
POWERTRAIN CON-
TROL MODULE
8D - 2 IGNITION SYSTEM
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GENERAL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION
This group describes the ignition systems for the
2.0, 2.4 and 2.5L engines.
On Board Diagnostics is described in Group 25 -
Emission Control Systems.
Group 0 - Lubrication and Maintenance, contains general maintenance information for ignition related items. The Owner’s Manual also contains maintenance information.
(2.0/2.4L). By switching the ground path for the coil on and off, the PCM adjusts ignition timing to meet changing engine operating conditions.
On a 2.5L The PCM controls ignition timing by turning on and off a tranisistor in the distributor.
Refer to 2.5L Ignition Coil in this Group for more information.
During the crank-start period the PCM maintains spark advance at 9° BTDC. During engine operation the following inputs determine the amount of spark advance provided by the PCM.
• Intake air temperature
• Coolant temperature
•
Engine RPM
•
Intake manifold vacuum
•
Knock sensor (2.0/2.4L Engines)
The PCM also regulates the fuel injection system.
Refer to the Fuel Injection sections of Group 14.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
IGNITION SYSTEM
NOTE: The 2.0, 2.4, and 2.5L engines use a fixed ignition timing system. Basic ignition timing is not adjustable. All spark advance is determined by the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The distributorless ignition system used on
2.0/2.4L engines is refered to as the Direct Ignition
System (DIS). Basic ignition timing is not adjust-
able. The system’s three main components are the coil pack, crankshaft position sensor, and camshaft position sensor.
The crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor are hall effect devices. The camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor generate pulses that are inputs to the PCM. The PCM determines crankshaft position from these sensors. The
PCM calculates injector sequence and ignition timing from crankshaft position. For a description of both sensors, refer to Camshaft Position Sensor and
Crankshaft Position Sensor in this section.
The 2.5L engine uses a distributor, crankshaft sensor and ignition coil. Basic ignition timing is not
adjustable. The system’s main components are the distributor, distributor pickup, camshaft signal, crankshaft signal and ignition coil.
The crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor are hall effect devices. The camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor generate pulses that are inputs to the PCM. The PCM determines crankshaft position from these sensors. The
PCM calculates injector sequence and ignition timing from crankshaft position. For a description of both sensors, refer to Camshaft Position Sensor and
Crankshaft Position Sensor in this section.
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
The PCM regulates the ignition system (Fig. 1).
The PCM supplies battery voltage to the ignition coil through the Auto Shutdown (ASD) Relay. The PCM also controls the ground circuit for the ignition coil
Fig. 1 Powertrain Control Module
SPARK PLUGS—2.0/2.4L
All engines use resistor spark plugs. They have resistance values ranging from 6,000 to 20,000 ohms when checked with at least a 1000 volt spark plug tester.
Do not use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the spark plugs. This will give an inaccurate reading.
Remove the spark plugs and examine them for burned electrodes and fouled, cracked or broken porcelain insulators. Keep plugs arranged in the order in which they were removed from the engine. An isolated plug displaying an abnormal condition indicates that a problem exists in the corresponding cylinder.
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
Replace spark plugs at the intervals recommended in
Group O - Lubrication and Maintenance.
Spark plugs that have low mileage may be cleaned and reused if not otherwise defective, carbon or oil fouled. Refer to the Spark Plug Condition section of this group. After cleaning, file the center electrode flat with a small flat point file or jewelers file. Adjust the gap between the electrodes (Fig. 3) to the dimensions specified in the chart at the end of this section.
Special care should be used when installing spark plugs in the 2.0/2.4L cylinder head spark plug wells.
Be sure the plugs do not drop into the wells, damage to the electrodes can occur.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a change in the spark plug gap. Overtightening can also damage the cylinder head. Tighten spark plugs to 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 3
The spark plugs are double platinum and have a recommended service life of 100,000 miles for normal driving conditions per schedule A in this manual. The spark plugs have a recommended service life of
75,000 miles for serve driving conditions per schedule
B in this manual. A thin platinum pad is welded to both electrode ends as show in (Fig. 2). Extreme care must be used to prevent spark plug cross threading, mis-gaping and ceramic insulator damage during plug removal and installation.
CAUTION: Never attempt to file the electrodes or use a wire brush for cleaning platinum plugs. This would damage the platinum pads which would shorten spark plug life.
Apply a very small amount of anti-seize compound to the threads when reinstalling the vehicle’s original spark plugs that have been determined good. Do not apply anti-seize compound to new spark plugs.
SPARK PLUGS—2.5L
The 2.5L engines utilize platinum spark plugs.
Refer to the maintenance schedule in Group 0 of this service manual.
All engines use resistor spark plugs. They have resistance values ranging from 6,000 to 20,000 ohms when checked with at least a 1000 volt spark plug tester.
Do not use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the spark plugs. This will give an inaccurate reading.
Remove the spark plugs and examine them for burned electrodes and fouled, cracked or broken porcelain insulators. Keep plugs arranged in the order in which they were removed from the engine. An isolated plug displaying an abnormal condition indicates that a problem exists in the corresponding cylinder.
Replace spark plugs at the intervals recommended in
Group O - Lubrication and Maintenance.
Spark plugs that have low mileage may be cleaned and reused if not otherwise defective, carbon or oil fouled. Refer to the Spark Plug Condition section of this group.
NOTE: Anti-seize compound is electrically conductive and can cause engine misfires if not applied correctly. It is extremely important that the antiseize compound doesn’t make contact with the spark plug electrodes or ceramic insulator.
Never force a gap gauge between the platinum electrodes or adjust the gap on platinum spark plugs without reading the 2.5L Spark Plug Gap Measurement procedures in this section.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a change in the spark plug gap. Overtightening can also damage the cylinder head. Tighten spark plugs to 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
Due to the engine packaging environment for the
2.5L engines, extreme care should be used when installing the spark plugs to avoid cross threading problems.
PLATINUM
8D - 4 IGNITION SYSTEM
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
2.5L SPARK PLUG GAP MEASUREMENT CAUTION: Cleaning of the platinum plug may damage the platinum tip.
CAUTION: The Platinum pads can be damaged during the measurement of checking the gap if extreme care is not used.
• Use only a taper gap gauge (Fig. 3)
• Never force the gap gauge through the platinum pads. Only apply enough force until resistance is felt.
• Never use a wire brush or spark plug cleaner machine to clean platinum spark plugs
• Use an OSHA approved air nozzle when drying gas fouled spark plugs.
If gap adjustment is required of platinum plug, bend only the ground electrode. DO NOT TOUCH the platinum pads. Use only a proper gapping tool and check with a taper gap gauge.
Fig. 2 Platinum Pads
Fig. 3 Setting Spark Plug Electrode Gap
SPARK PLUG CABLES
Spark Plug cables are sometimes referred to as secondary ignition wires. They transfer electrical current from the distributor (2.5L), coil pack (2.0/2.4L), to individual spark plugs at each cylinder. The resistor type, nonmetallic spark plug cables provide suppression of radio frequency emissions from the ignition system.
Check the spark plug cable connections for good contact at the coil and distributor cap towers and at the spark plugs. Terminals should be fully seated.
The nipples and spark plug covers should be in good condition. Nipples should fit tightly on the coil and distributor cap towers and spark plug cover should fit tight around spark plug insulators. Loose cable connections can cause ignition malfunctions by permitting water to enter the towers, corroding, and increasing resistance. To maintain proper sealing at the terminal connections, the connections should not be broken unless testing indicates high resistance, an open circuit or other damage.
Clean high tension cables with a cloth moistened with a non-flammable solvent and wipe dry. Check for brittle or cracked insulation.
SPARK HIGH IGNITION COIL
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
ELECTRONIC IGNITION COIL
WARNING: THE DIRECT IGNITION SYSTEM GEN-
ERATES APPROXIMATELY 40,000 VOLTS.
PER-
SONAL INJURY COULD RESULT FROM CONTACT
WITH THIS SYSTEM.
The coil pack consists of 2 coils molded together.
The coil pack is mounted on the valve cover (Fig. 4) and (Fig. 5). High tension leads route to each cylinder from the coil. The coil fires two spark plugs every power stroke. One plug is the cylinder under compression, the other cylinder fires on the exhaust stroke. Coil number one fires cylinders 1 and 4. Coil number two fires cylinders 2 and 3. The PCM determines which of the coils to charge and fire at the correct time.
The Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay provides battery voltage to the ignition coil. The PCM provides a ground contact (circuit) for energizing the coil. When the PCM breaks the contact, the energy in the coil primary transfers to the secondary causing the spark. The PCM will de-energize the ASD relay if it does not receive the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor inputs. Refer to Auto Shutdown (ASD) Relay—PCM Output, in this section for relay operation.
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 5
IGNITION COIL—2.5L
The 2.5L engine uses an epoxy type coil. The coils are not oil filled. The windings are embedded in a heat and vibration resistant epoxy compound.
On a 2.5L the ignition transistor is located in the distributor (pin 11). On a 2.5L The PCM controls ignition timing by turning on and off the tranisistor in the distributor. By switching the ground path for the coil on and off, the PCM adjusts ignition timing to meet changing engine operating conditions.
The PCM operates the ignition coil through the
Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay. When the relay is energized by the PCM, battery voltage is connected to the ignition coil positive terminal. The PCM will de-energize the ASD relay if it does not receive an input from the distributor pick-up. Refer to Auto Shutdown
(ASD) Relay and Fuel Pump Relay in this section.
The ignition coil is located inside the distibutor.
The distributor is mounted to the right end of the engine block behind the thermostat housing (Fig. 6).
Fig. 4 Ignition Coil Pack—2.0L Engine
Fig. 5 Ignition Coil Pack—2.4L Engine
Fig. 6 Ignition Coil—2.5L Engine
AUTOMATIC SHUTDOWN RELAY
The Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay supplies battery voltage to the fuel injectors, generator field, electronic ignition coil and the heating elements in the oxygen sensors.
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams for circuit information.
The PCM controls the ASD relay by switching the ground path for the solenoid side of the relay on and off. The PCM turns the ground path off when the ignition switch is in the Off position unless the O2
Heater Monitor test is being run. Refer to Group 25,
POWER DISTRIBUTION
8D - 6
POWERTRAIN CON-
TROL MODULE
IGNITION SYSTEM
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
On-Board Diagnostics. When the ignition switch is in
On or Start, the PCM momentarily turns on the ASD relay. While the relay is on the PCM monitors the crankshaft and camshaft position sensor signals to determine engine speed and ignition timing (coil dwell). If the PCM does not receive crankshaft and camshaft position sensor signals when the ignition switch is in the Run position, it will de-energize the
ASD relay.
The ASD relay is located in the PDC (Fig. 7). The inside top of the PDC cover has a label showing relay and fuse identification.
Fig. 7 Power Distribution Center (PDC)
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
The PCM determines what cylinder to fire from the crankshaft position sensor input and the camshaft position sensor input. The second crankshaft counterweight has machined into it two sets of four timing reference notches including a 60 degree signature notch (Fig. 8). From the crankshaft position sensor input the PCM determines engine speed and crankshaft angle (position).
The notches generate pulses from high to low in the crankshaft position sensor output voltage. When a metal portion of the counterweight aligns with the crankshaft position sensor, the sensor output voltage goes low (less than 0.5 volts). When a notch aligns with the sensor, voltage goes high (5.0 volts). As a group of notches pass under the sensor, the output voltage switches from low (metal) to high (notch) then back to low.
If available, an oscilloscope can display the square wave patterns of each voltage pulse. From the frequency of the output voltage pulses, the PCM calculates engine speed. The width of the pulses represent the amount of time the output voltage stays high before switching back to low. The period of time the sensor output voltage stays high before switching back to low is referred to as pulse-width. The faster the engine is operating, the smaller the pulse-width on the oscilloscope.
By counting the pulses and referencing the pulse from the 60 degree signature notch, the PCM calculates crankshaft angle (position). In each group of timing reference notches, the first notch represents
69 degrees before top dead center (BTDC). The second notch represents 49 degrees BTDC. The third notch represents 29 degrees. The last notch in each set represents 9 degrees before top dead center
BTDC.
The timing reference notches are machined at 20° increments. From the voltage pulse-width the PCM tells the difference between the timing reference notches and the 60 degree signature notch. The 60 degree signature notch produces a longer pulse-width than the smaller timing reference notches. If the camshaft position sensor input switches from high to low when the 60 degree signature notch passes under the crankshaft position sensor, the PCM knows cylinder number one is the next cylinder at TDC.
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
CRANKSHAFT POSITION CONVERTOR PLATE
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 7
Fig. 8 Timing Reference Notches
The crankshaft position sensor mounts to the engine block behind the generator, just above the oil filter (Fig. 9).
Fig. 9 Crankshaft Position Sensor
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.5L
The crankshaft position sensor (Fig. 10) detects slots cut into the transmission driveplate extension.
There are 3 sets of slots. Each set contains 4 slots, for a total of 12 slots (Fig. 11). Basic timing is set by the position of the last slot in each group. Once the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) senses the last slot, it determines crankshaft position (which piston will next be at TDC) from the camshaft position sensor input. The 4 pulses generated by the crankshaft position sensor represent the 69°, 49°, 29°, and 9°
BTDC marks. It may take the PCM one engine revolution to determine crankshaft position.
Fig. 10 Crankshaft Position Sensor—Adjustable
Fig. 11 Timing Slots
CRANKSHAFT SOR
8D - 8 IGNITION SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
The PCM uses crankshaft position reference to determine injector sequence, ignition timing and the presence of misfire. Once the PCM determines crankshaft position, it begins energizing the injectors in sequence.
The crankshaft sensor is located on the rear of the transmission housing, above the differential housing
(Fig. 12). The sensor connector has a christmas tree attached to the heater tube bracket. The bottom of the sensor is positioned next to the drive plate.
CAM MAGNET/TARGET
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Fig. 12 Crankshaft Position Sensor Location—
Typical
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.0/2.4L
The PCM determines fuel injection synchronization and cylinder identification from inputs provided by the camshaft position sensor (Fig. 13) and (Fig. 14) and crankshaft position sensor. From the two inputs, the PCM determines crankshaft position.
Fig. 14 Camshaft Position Sensor—2.4LDOHC
The camshaft position sensor attaches to the rear of the cylinder head (Fig. 15). A target magnet attaches to the rear of the camshaft and indexes to the correct position. The target magnet has four different poles arranged in an asymmetrical pattern. As the target magnet rotates, the camshaft position sensor senses the change in polarity (Fig. 16). The sensor input switches from high (5 volts) to low (0.30
volts) as the target magnet rotates. When the north pole of the target magnet passes under the sensor, the output switches high. The sensor output switches low when the south pole of the target magnet passes underneath.
Fig. 13 Camshaft Position Sensor—2.0LSOHC
Fig. 15 Target Magnet—Typical
SIGNAL
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 9
When the trailing edge of the shutter leaves the sync signal generator, the change of magnetic field causes the sync signal voltage to switch low to 0 volts.
Fig. 16 Target Magnet Polarity
The camshaft position sensor is mounted to the rear of the cylinder head. The sensor also acts as a thrust plate to control camshaft endplay.
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.5L
The PCM determines fuel injection synchronization and cylinder identification from inputs provided by the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor. From the two inputs, the PCM determines crankshaft position.
The 2.5L engine is equipped with a camshaft driven mechanical distributor, containing a shaft driven distributor rotor. The distributor is also equipped with an internal camshaft position (fuel sync) sensor (Fig. 17). This sensor provides fuel injection synchronization and cylinder identification to the PCM.
The camshaft position sensor contains a hall effect device called a sync signal generator. This sync signal generator detects a rotating pulse ring (shutter) on the distributor shaft. The pulse ring rotates 180 through the sync signal generator. Its signal is used in conjunction with the crankshaft position sensor to differentiate between fuel injection and spark events.
It is also used to synchronize the fuel injectors with their respective cylinders.
When the leading edge of the shutter enters the sync signal generator, the interruption of magnetic field causes the voltage to switch high. This causes a sync signal of approximately 5 volts.
Fig. 17 Camshaft Position Sensor—2.5LEngine
Since the shutter rotates at half crankshaft speed, it may take 1 engine revolution during cranking for the PCM to determine the position of piston number
6.
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor has one element. The sensor provides an input voltage to the PCM. The sensor is a variable resistance (thermistor) with a range of -40°F to 265°F. As coolant temperature varies, the sensors resistance changes, resulting in a different input voltage to the PCM.
The PCM contains different spark advance schedules for cold and warm engine operation. The schedules reduce engine emissions and improve driveability. Because spark advance changes at different engine operating temperatures during warm-up, all spark advance testing should be done with the engine fully warmed.
The PCM demands slightly richer air-fuel mixtures and higher idle speeds until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
The engine coolant sensor input is also used for radiator fan control.
MAP/AIR TEMPERATURE MAP SENSOR THROTTLE BODY
8D - 10 IGNITION SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR—2.0L
The intake air temperature sensor measures the temperature of the air as it enters the engine. The sensor supplies one of the inputs the PCM uses to determine injector pulse-width.
The MAP/Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor, located on the intake manifold, combines the MAP and Intake Air Temperature (IAT) functions into one sensor (Fig. 18).
MAP SENINTAKE AIR TEM-
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Fig. 18 MAP/IAT Sensor—2.0L
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR—2.4/2.5L
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor measures the temperature of the air as it enters the engine.
The sensor supplies one of the inputs the PCM uses to determine injector pulse-width.
The IAT sensor threads into the intake manifold
(Fig. 19) or (Fig. 20).
Fig. 20 Intake Air TemperatureSensor and MAP
Sensor—2.5L
KNOCK SENSOR
The knock sensor threads into the side of the cylinder block in front of the starter motor. When the knock sensor detects a knock in one of the cylinders, it sends an input signal to the PCM. In response, the
PCM retards ignition timing for all cylinders by a scheduled amount.
Knock sensors contain a piezoelectric material which constantly vibrates and sends an input voltage
(signal) to the PCM while the engine operates. As the intensity of the crystal’s vibration increase, the knock sensor output voltage also increases.
NOTE: Over or under tightening effects knock sensor performance, possibly causing improper spark control.
Fig. 19 Intake Air Temperature Sensor andMAP
Sensor—2.4L
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) supplies 5 volts to the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. The MAP sensor converts intake manifold pressure into voltage. The PCM monitors the MAP sensor output voltage. As vacuum increases, MAP sensor voltage decreases proportionately. Also, as vacuum decreases, MAP sensor voltage increases proportionately.
During cranking, before the engine starts running, the PCM determines atmospheric air pressure from the MAP sensor voltage. While the engine operates, the PCM determines intake manifold pressure from the MAP sensor voltage. Based on MAP sensor voltage and inputs from other sensors, the PCM adjusts spark advance and the air/fuel mixture.
The MAP sensor mounts to the intake manifold.
ON/RUN START A GOOD ENGINE
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)
The TPS mounts to the side of the throttle body.
The TPS connects to the throttle blade shaft. The
TPS is a variable resistor that provides the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with an input signal
(voltage). The signal represents throttle blade position. As the position of the throttle blade changes, the resistance of the TPS changes.
The PCM supplies approximately 5 volts to the
TPS. The TPS output voltage (input signal to the powertrain control module) represents throttle blade position. The TPS output voltage to the PCM varies from approximately 0.38 volts to 1.2 volts at minimum throttle opening (idle) to a maximum of 3.1
volts to 4.4 volts at wide open throttle.
Along with inputs from other sensors, the PCM uses the TPS input to determine current engine operating conditions. The PCM also adjusts fuel injector pulse width and ignition timing based on these inputs.
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 11
Transaxle for Automatic Transmission Shifter/Ignition Interlock.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
TESTING FOR SPARK AT COIL—2.0/2.4L
WARNING: THE DIRECT IGNITION SYSTEMS GEN-
ERATES APPROXIMATELY 40,000 VOLTS.
PER-
SONAL INJURY COULD RESULT FROM CONTACT
WITH THIS SYSTEM.
The coil pack contains independent coils. Each coil must be checked individually.
CAUTION: Spark plug wire damage may occur if the spark plug is moved more than 1/4 inch away from the engine ground.
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable disconnected any longer than 30 seconds or possible heat damage to catalytic converter will occur.
LOCK KEY CYLINDER
The lock cylinder is inserted in the end of the housing opposite the ignition switch. The ignition key rotates the cylinder to 5 different detents (Fig. 21):
• Accessory
• Off (lock)
• Unlock
• On/Run
• Start
CAUTION: Test must be performed at idle and in park only with the parking brake on.
NOTE: New isolated engine valve cover may not provide adequate ground. Use engine block as engine ground.
Use a new spark plug and spark plug cable for the following test.
(1) Insert a new spark plug into the new spark plug boot. Ground the plug to the engine (Fig. 22).
Do not hold with your hand.
Fig. 21 IgnitionLock Cylinder Detents
IGNITION INTERLOCK
All vehicles equipped with automatic transaxles have an interlock system. The system prevents shifting the vehicle out of Park unless the ignition lock cylinder is in the Off, Run or Start position. In addition, the operator cannot rotate the key to the lock position unless the shifter is in the park position. On vehicles equipped with floor shift refer to Group 21 -
Fig. 22 Testing For Spark
8D - 12 IGNITION SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
(2) Starting with coil insulator #1, remove it from the DIS coil.
(3) Plug the test spark plug cable onto #1 coil tower. Make sure a good connection is made; there should be a click sound.
(4) Crank the engine and look for spark across the electrodes of the spark plug.
CAUTION: Always install the cable back on the coil tower after testing to avoid damage to the coil and catalytic converter.
(5) Repeat the above test for the remaining coils. If there is no spark during all cylinder tests, proceed to the Failure To Start Test.
(6) If one or more tests indicate irregular, weak, or no spark, proceed to Check Coil Test.
TESTING FOR SPARK AT COIL—2.5L
WARNING: THE IGNITION SYSTEM GENERATES
APPROXIMATELY 32,000 VOLTS.
PERSONAL
INJURY COULD RESULT FROM CONTACT WITH
THIS SYSTEM.
CAUTION: Spark plug wire damage may occur if the spark plug is moved more than 1/4 inch away from the engine ground.
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable disconnected any longer than necessary during test or possible heat damage to catalytic converter will occur. Total test time must not exceed 1 minute.
Use a new spark plug and spark plug cable for the following test.
(1) Insert a new spark plug into the new spark plug boot. Ground the plug to the engine (Fig. 22).
(2) Remove distributor cap. Refer to Distributor
Service in this section.
(3) Plug test spark plug cable onto coil tower.
(4) Crank engine and look for spark across the electrodes of the spark plug. If there is no spark, check for: (Fig. 23)
• Continuity from PCM pin 11 to 6-way connector terminal 1
• Continuity between ground and 6-way connector terminal 2
• Continuity from PCM pin 6 to 2-way connector terminal 2
• Correct resistance in distributor cap, refer to
Distributor Cap Resistance Test.
(5) If all circuits show continuity, replace distributor assembly.
CAV
CYLINDERS 2 & 3
COLOR
GROUND
CMP SENSOR SIGNAL
FUSED IGN SWITCH OUTPUT
SENSOR GROUND
CAV COLOR
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Fig. 23 Distributor Connectors
CHECK COIL TEST—2.4L
Coil one fires cylinders 1 and 4, coil two fires cylinders 2 and 3. Each coil tower is labeled with the number of the corresponding cylinder.
(1) Remove ignition cables and measure the resistance of the cables. Resistance must be within the range shown in the Cable Resistance Chart in Specifications. Replace any cable not within tolerance.
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil pack.
(3) Measure the primary resistance of each coil. At the coil, connect an ohmmeter between the B+ pin and the pin corresponding to the cylinders in question (Fig. 24). Resistance on the primary side of each coil should be 0.45 - 0.65 ohm at (70° to 80° F).
Replace the coil if resistance is not within tolerance.
Fig. 24 Terminal Identification
IGNITION COILS
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
(4) Remove ignition cables from the secondary towers of the coil. Measure the secondary resistance of the coil between the towers of each individual coil
(Fig. 25). Secondary resistance should be 7,000 to
15,800 ohms. Replace the coil if resistance is not within tolerance.
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 13
sensor signal immediately after detecting the camshaft position sensor signal.
(1) Check battery voltage. Voltage should approximately 12.66 volts or higher to perform failure to start test.
(2) Disconnect the harness connector from the coil pack (Fig. 26).
(3) Connect a test light to the B+ (battery voltage) terminal of the coil electrical connector and ground.
The B+ wire for the DIS coil is the center terminal.
Do not spread the terminal with the test light probe.
Fig. 25 Checking Ignition Coil SecondaryResistance
CHECK COIL TEST—2.5L
Measure primary coil resistance at the 2 pin distributor connector. Resistance should be between 0.6
and 0.8 ohms.
Measure secondary coil resistance between the coil tower and each terminal of the 2 pin distributor connector. Resistance should be 12k to 18k ohms.
FAILURE TO START TEST—2.0/2.4L
This no-start test checks the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor.
Use the DRB scan tool to test the camshaft position sensor and the sensor circuits. Refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostics Procedure Manual. Refer to the wiring diagrams section for circuit information.
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) supplies 8 volts to the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor through one circuit. If the 8 volt supply circuit shorts to ground, neither sensor will produce a signal (output voltage to the PCM).
When the ignition key is turned and left in the On position, the PCM automatically energizes the Auto
Shutdown (ASD) relay. However, the controller de-energizes the relay within one second because it has not received a camshaft position sensor signal indicating engine rotation.
During cranking, the ASD relay will not energize until the PCM receives a camshaft position sensor signal. Secondly, the ASD relay remains energized only if the controller senses a crankshaft position
Fig. 26 Ignition Coil Engine Harness Connector
(4) Turn the ignition key to the ON position. The test light should flash On and then Off. Do not turn the Key to off position, leave it in the On posi-
tion .
(a) If the test light flashes momentarily, the
PCM grounded the ASD relay. Proceed to step 5.
(b) If the test light did not flash, the ASD relay did not energize. The cause is either the relay or one of the relay circuits. Use the DRB scan tool to test the ASD relay and circuits. Refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostics Procedure Manual.
Refer to the wiring diagrams section for circuit information.
(5) Crank the engine. (If the key was placed in the off position after step 4, place the key in the On position before cranking. Wait for the test light to flash once, then crank the engine.)
(6) If the test light momentarily flashes during cranking, the PCM is not receiving a crankshaft position sensor signal.
(7) If the test light did not flash during cranking, unplug the crankshaft position sensor connector.
Turn the ignition key to the off position. Turn the key to the On position, wait for the test light to momentarily flash once, then crank the engine. If the test light momentarily flashes, the crankshaft position sensor is shorted and must be replaced. If the
NORMAL DRY COLD (CARBON) FOULING
8D - 14 IGNITION SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued) light did not flash, the cause of the no-start is in either the crankshaft position sensor/camshaft position sensor 8 volt supply circuit, or the camshaft position sensor output or ground circuits.
FAILURE TO START TEST—2.5L
NOTE: Before proceeding with this test make sure
Testing For Spark At Coil has been performed. Failure to do this may lead to unnecessary diagnostic time and wrong test results.
Refer to Group 25 for On-Board Diagnostic checks.
Also, refer to the DRB scan tool and the appropriate
Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures manual. These checks will help diagnose problems with the PCM and ASD relay.
IGNITION TIMING PROCEDURE
The engines for this vehicle, use a fixed ignition system. The PCM regulates ignition timing. Basic ignition timing is not adjustable.
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR AND CRANKSHAFT
POSITION SENSOR
The output voltage of a properly operating camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor switches from high (5.0 volts) to low (0.3 volts). By connecting an Moper Diagonostic System (MDS) and engine analyzer to the vehicle, technicians can view the square wave pattern.
DISTRIBUTOR CAP RESISTANCE TEST—2.5L
There is a resistor built into the distributor cap.
Connect an ohmmeter between the center button and igntion coil terminal. Ohmmeter should read 5000 ohms.
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Refer to Group 14, Fuel System for Diagnosis and
Testing.
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Refer to Group 14, Fuel System, for Diagnosis and
Testing.
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR
TEST
Refer to Group 14, Fuel System for Diagnosis and
Testing.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
To perform a complete test of the this sensor and its circuitry, refer to the DRB scan tool and appropriate Powertrain Diagnostics Procedures manual. To
JA test the throttle position sensor only, refer to the following:
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) can be tested with a digital voltmeter (DVM). The center terminal of the sensor is the output terminal. One of the other terminals is a 5 volt supply and the remaining terminal is ground.
Connect the DVM between the center and sensor ground terminal. Refer to Group 8W - Wiring Diagrams for correct pinout.
With the ignition switch in the ON position, check the output voltage at the center terminal wire of the connector. Check the output voltage at idle and at
Wide-Open-Throttle (WOT). At idle, TPS output voltage should be approximately 0.38 volts to 1.2 volts.
At wide open throttle, TPS output voltage should be approximately 3.1 volts to 4.4 volts. The output voltage should gradually increase as the throttle plate moves slowly from idle to WOT.
Check for spread terminals at the sensor and PCM connections before replacing the TPS.
SPARK PLUG CONDITION
NORMAL OPERATING CONDITIONS
The few deposits present will be probably light tan or slightly gray in color with most grades of commercial gasoline (Fig. 27). There will not be evidence of electrode burning. Gap growth will not average more than approximately 0.025 mm (.001 in) per 1600 km
(1000 miles) of operation for non platinum spark plugs. Non-platnium spark plugs that have normal wear can usually be cleaned, have the electrodes filed and regapped, and then reinstalled.
CAUTION: Never attempt to file the electrodes or use a wire brush for cleaning platinum spark plugs.
This would damage the platinum pads which would shorten spark plug life.
Fig. 27 Normal Operation and Cold (Carbon)Fouling
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
Some fuel refiners in several areas of the United
States have introduced a manganese additive (MMT) for unleaded fuel. During combustion, fuel with MMT may coat the entire tip of the spark plug with a rust colored deposit. The rust color deposits can be misdiagnosed as being caused by coolant in the combustion chamber. Spark plug performance is not affected by
MMT deposits.
COLD FOULING (CARBON FOULING)
Cold fouling is sometimes referred to as carbon fouling because the deposits that cause cold fouling are basically carbon (Fig. 27). A dry, black deposit on one or two plugs in a set may be caused by sticking valves or misfire conditions. Cold (carbon) fouling of the entire set may be caused by a clogged air cleaner.
Cold fouling is normal after short operating periods. The spark plugs do not reach a high enough operating temperature during short operating periods. Replace carbon fouled plugs with new spark plugs.
FUEL FOULING
A spark plug that is coated with excessive wet fuel is called fuel fouled. This condition is normally observed during hard start periods. Clean fuel fouled spark plugs with compressed air and reinstall them in the engine.
OIL FOULING
A spark plug that is coated with excessive wet oil is oil fouled. In older engines, wet fouling can be caused by worn rings or excessive cylinder wear.
Break-in fouling of new engines may occur before normal oil control is achieved. Replace oil fouled spark plugs with new ones.
OIL OR ASH ENCRUSTED
If one or more plugs are oil or ash encrusted, evaluate the engine for the cause of oil entering the combustion chambers (Fig. 28). Sometimes fuel additives can cause ash encrustation on an entire set of spark plugs. Ash encrusted spark plugs can be cleaned and reused.
HIGH SPEED MISS
When replacing spark plugs because of a high speed miss condition; wide open throttle opera- tion should be avoided for approximately 80 km
(50 miles) after installation of new plugs. This will allow deposit shifting in the combustion chamber to take place gradually and avoid plug destroying splash fouling shortly after the plug change.
ELECTRODE GAP BRIDGING
Loose deposits in the combustion chamber can cause electrode gap bridging. The deposits accumu-
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 15
Fig. 28 Oil or Ash Encrusted
late on the spark plugs during continuous stopand-go driving.
When the engine is suddenly subjected to a high torque load, the deposits partially liquefy and bridge the gap between the electrodes
(Fig. 29). This short circuits the electrodes. Spark plugs with electrode gap bridging can be cleaned and reused.
Fig. 29 Electrode Gap Bridging
SCAVENGER DEPOSITS
Fuel scavenger deposits may be either white or yellow (Fig. 30). They may appear to be harmful, but are a normal condition caused by chemical additives in certain fuels. These additives are designed to change the chemical nature of deposits and decrease spark plug misfire tendencies. Notice that accumulation on the ground electrode and shell area may be
OR
8D - 16 IGNITION SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued) heavy but the deposits are easily removed. Spark plugs with scavenger deposits can be considered normal in condition, cleaned and reused.
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PREIGNITION DAMAGE
Excessive combustion chamber temperature can cause preignition damage. First, the center electrode dissolves and the ground electrode dissolves somewhat later (Fig. 32). Insulators appear relatively deposit free. Determine if the spark plugs are the correct type, as specified on the VECI label, or if other operating conditions are causing engine overheating.
Fig. 30 Scavenger Deposits
CHIPPED ELECTRODE INSULATOR
A chipped electrode insulator usually results from bending the center electrode while adjusting the spark plug electrode gap. Under certain conditions, severe detonation also can separate the insulator from the center electrode (Fig. 31). Spark plugs with chipped electrode insulators must be replaced.
Fig. 32 Preignition Damage
SPARK PLUG OVERHEATING
Overheating is indicated by a white or gray center electrode insulator that also appears blistered (Fig.
33). The increase in electrode gap will be considerably in excess of 0.001 in per 1000 miles of operation.
This suggests that a plug with a cooler heat range rating should be used. Over advanced ignition timing, detonation and cooling system malfunctions also can cause spark plug overheating.
Fig. 31 Chipped Electrode Insulator
Fig. 33 Spark PlugOverheating
POWERTRAIN CONTROL
LEFT STRUT TOWER
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IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 17
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE
The PCM attaches to a bracket between the air cleaner housing and Power Distribution Center
(PDC).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from auxillary jumper terminal (Fig. 34).
Fig. 34 Auxillary Jumper Terminal
(2) Disconnect both 40-way connectors from PCM.
(3) Remove screws attaching PCM to bracket (Fig.
35).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install PCM. Tighten mounting screws.
(2) Attach both 40-way connectors to PCM.
(3) Connect negative cable to auxillary jumper terminal.
SPARK PLUG CABLES—2.0/2.4L
Clean high tension cables with a cloth moistened with a non- flammable solvent. Wipe the cables dry.
Check for brittle or cracked insulation.
Resistance cables are identified by the words Elec-
tronic Suppression .
REMOVAL
Disconnect the cable from the ignition coil first.
The cables insulate the spark plugs and cover the top of the spark plug tubes (Fig. 3). To remove the cables, lightly grasp the top of the cable. Rotate the insulator 90° and pull straight up. Ensure the #1 and #4 cables run under the #2 and #3 ignition coil towers. Keep #4 cable away from the oil fill cap.
INSTALLATION
Ensure the #1 and #4 cables run under the #2 and #3 ignition coil towers. Keep #4 cable away from the oil fill cap.
Rotate the insulator 90° and push straight down.
Connect the cable to the ignition coil.
SPARK PLUG—2.0/2.4L
Failure to route the cables properly could cause the radio to reproduce ignition noise, cross ignition of the spark plugs or short circuit the cables to ground.
NOTE: REMOVE cables from coil first before removing spark plug insulator.
Fig. 35 PCM Bracket Screws
(4) Lift PCM up to remove it from vehicle.
REMOVAL
Always remove the spark plug cable by grasping the top of the spark plug insulator, turning the boot
1/2 turn and pulling straight up in a steady motion.
(1) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
(2) Inspect the spark plug condition. Refer to
Spark Plug Condition in this section.
INSTALLATION
(1) To avoid cross threading, start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand.
(2) Tighten spark plugs to 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install spark plug insulators over spark plugs.
Ensure the top of the spark plug insulator covers the upper end of the spark plug tube.
(4) Install spark plug cable to coil.
MAP SENSOR INTAKE AIR SEN-
8D - 18 IGNITION SYSTEM
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
SPARK PLUGS AND CABLES—2.5L
When replacing the spark plug and coil cables, route the cables correctly and secure them in the appropriate retainers. Failure to route the cables properly can cause the radio to reproduce ignition noise, cross ignition of the spark plugs or short circuit the cables to ground.
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SPARK PLUG REMOVAL—#1, #3 or #5
(1) Disconnect negative cable from auxillary jumper terminal.
(2) Unplug connectors from MAP and intake air temperature sensors (Fig. 36).
CAUTION: Never attempt to file the electrodes or use a wire brush for cleaning platinum plugs. This would damage the platinum pads which would shorten spark plug life.
Apply a very small amount of anti-seize compound to the threads when reinstalling the vehicle’s original spark plugs that have been determined good. Do not apply anti-seize compound to new spark plugs.
NOTE: Anti-seize compound is electrically conductive and can cause engine misfires if not applied correctly. It is extremely important that the antiseize compound doesn’t make contact with the spark plug electrodes or ceramic insulator.
Fig. 36 Intake Manifold Sensors and LeftPlenum
Support Bolt
(3) Remove plenum support bracket bolt located rearward of MAP sensor (Fig. 36).
(4) Remove bolt holding air inlet resonator to intake plenum (Fig. 37).
SPARK PLUG REMOVAL—#2, #4 or #6
Always remove the ignition cable by grasping at the spark plug boot turning, the boot 1/2 turn and pulling straight back in a steady motion.
(1) Prior to removing the spark plug spray compressed air around the spark plug hole and the area around the spark plug.
(2) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
(3) Inspect the spark plug condition. Refer to
Spark Plug Condition in this section.
INSTALLATION
(1) To avoid cross threading, start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand.
(2) Tighten spark plugs to 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install ignition cables over spark plugs.
Fig. 37 Air Inlet Resonator
EGR EGR TUBE
RELEASE TANG
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(5) Loosen throttle body air inlet hose clamp.
(6) Release snaps holding air cleaner housing cover to housing.
(7) Remove air cleaner cover and inlet hoses from engine.
(8) Unplug TPS and idle air control motor connectors (Fig. 38) and (Fig. 39).
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 19
(9) Pry retainer tab back on throttle cable and slide cable out of bracket (Fig. 40). Remove cable from throttle lever.
Fig. 38 Throttle Position Sensor
Fig. 40 Throttle Cable Attachment
(10) Slide Speed control cable out of bracket, if equipped (Fig. 40). Remove cable from throttle lever.
(11) Remove EGR tube from intake plenum (Fig.
41).
Fig. 39 Idle Air Control Motor
Fig. 41 EGR Tube and Right Manifold SupportBolt
IGNITION COIL FAS-
TENERS
SPARK
8D - 20 IGNITION SYSTEM
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(12) Remove plenum support bracket bolt located rearward of EGR tube (Fig. 41).
(13) Remove bolts holding upper intake plenum and remove plenum.
(14) Always remove the ignition cable by grasping at the spark plug boot turning, the boot 1/2 turn and pulling straight back in a steady motion.
(15) Prior to removing the spark plug spray compressed air around the spark plug hole and the area around the spark plug.
(16) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
(17) Inspect the spark plug condition. Refer to
Spark Plug Condition in this section.
IGNITION COIL—2.0/2.4L
The electronic ignition coil pack attaches directly to the valve cover (Fig. 42) or (Fig. 43).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect electrical connector from coil pack.
(2) Remove coil pack mounting nuts.
(3) Remove coil pack.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install coil pack on valve cover.
(2) Transfer spark plug cables to new coil pack.
The coil pack towers are numbered with the cylinder identification. Be sure the ignition cables snap onto the towers.
SPARK PLUG INSTALLATION
(1) To avoid cross threading, start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand.
(2) Tighten spark plugs to 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install ignition cables over spark plugs.
(4) Install new gasket and position upper intake plenum. Tighten plenum bolts to 18 N·m (13 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Install bolts at plenum support brackets.
Tighten bolts to 18 N·m (13 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install EGR tube to plenum. Tighten EGR tube to intake manifold plenum screws to 11 N·m (95 in.
lbs.).
(7) Install throttle and speed control (if equipped) cables.
(8) Attach electrical connectors to sensors.
(9) Tighten air inlet tube clamps to 3 N·m 6 1 (25
6 5 in. lbs.) torque.
(10) Connect negative terminal to auxiliary jumper terminal.
Fig. 42 Electronic Ignition Coil Pack—2.0L
SPARK PLUG TUBES
The spark plugs tubes are pressed into the cylinder head. Sealant is applied to the end of the tube before installation. For engine information, refer to Group
9, Engines.
Fig. 43 Electronic Ignition Coil Pack—2.4L
DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING COIL TOWER TARGET MAGNETMOUNTING BOLT
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
IGNITION COIL—2.5L
The ignition coil is located in the distributor housing (Fig. 44).
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 21
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—SOHC
The camshaft position sensor is mounted to the rear of the cylinder head (Fig. 46).
Fig. 44 Ignition Coil
If ignition coil is defective, replace distributor assembly. Refer to Distributor Service.
AUTOMATIC SHUTDOWN RELAY
The relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) (Fig. 45). The PDC is located in the engine compartment. For the location of the relay within the
PDC, refer to the PDC cover for location. Check electrical terminals for corrosion and repair as necessary.
Fig. 46 Camshaft Position Sensor Location—SOHC
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the filtered air tube from the throttle body and air cleaner housing. Remove filtered air tube.
(2) Remove the air cleaner inlet tube.
(3) Disconnect electrical connectors from engine coolant sensor and camshaft position sensor.
(4) Remove brake booster hose and electrical connector from holders on end of cylinder head cover.
(5) Remove camshaft position sensor mounting screws. Remove sensor.
(6) Loosen screw attaching target magnet to rear of camshaft (Fig. 47).
Fig. 45 Power Distribution Center (PDC)
Fig. 47 Target Magnet Removal/Installation
MOUNTINGBOLT
LOCATING
HOLES (2)
8D - 22 IGNITION SYSTEM
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
INSTALLATION
The target magnet has two locating dowels that fit into machined locating holes in end of the camshaft.
(1) Install target magnet in end of camshaft.
Tighten mounting screw to 3.4 N·m (30 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install camshaft position sensor. Tighten sensor mounting screws to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.) torque.
(3) Place brake booster hose and electrical harness in holders on end of valve cover.
(4) Attach electrical connectors to coolant temperature sensor and camshaft position sensor.
(5) Install air cleaner inlet tube and filtered air tube.
(4) Loosen screw attaching target magnet to rear of camshaft (Fig. 49).
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—DOHC
The camshaft position sensor is mounted to the rear of the cylinder head (Fig. 48).
Fig. 49 Target Magnet Removal/Installation
INSTALLATION
The target magnet has locating dowels that fit into machined locating holes in the end of the camshaft
(Fig. 50).
Fig. 48 Camshaft Position Sensor Location—DOHC
REMOVAL
(1) Remove filtered air tube from the throttle body and air cleaner housing.
(2) Disconnect electrical connector from camshaft position sensor.
(3) Remove camshaft position sensor mounting screws. Remove sensor.
Fig. 50 Target Magnet Installation
(1) Install target magnet in end of camshaft.
Tighten mounting screw to 3 N·m (30 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install camshaft position sensor. Tighten sensor mounting screws to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.) torque.
(3) Carefully attach electrical connector to camshaft position sensor. Installation at an angle may damage the sensor pins.
(4) Install filtered air tube. Tighten clamps to 3
N·m 6 1 (25 in. lbs.
6 5) torque.
CRANKSHAFT
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.0/2.4 L
The crankshaft position sensor mounts to the engine block behind the generator, just above the oil filter (Fig. 51).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect electrical connector from crankshaft position sensor.
(2) Remove sensor mounting screw. Remove sensor.
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 23
(4) (Disconnect crankshaft position sensor electrical connector from the wiring harness connector.
INSTALLATION—ADJUSTABLE
All vehicles will be equipped with an adjustable crankshaft position sensor. This can be identified by an elongated mounting hole in the sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Reverse procedure for installation.
NOTE: If the removed sensor is to be reinstalled, clean off the old spacer on the sensor face. A NEW
SPACER must be attached to the sensor face before installation. If the sensor is being replaced, confirm that the paper spacer is attached to the face of the new sensor (Fig. 53).
Fig. 51 Crankshaft Position Sensor—2.0/2.4L
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.5L
REMOVAL
(1) Remove speed control servo from driver’s side strut tower.
(2) Remove crankshaft position sensor retaining bolt (Fig. 52).
Fig. 52 Crankshaft Position Sensor
(3) Pull crankshaft position sensor straight up out of the transaxle housing.
Fig. 53 Crankshaft Position Sensor and Spacer
(1) Install sensor in transaxle and push sensor down until contact is made with the drive plate.
While holding the sensor in this position, install and tighten the retaining bolt to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Connect crankshaft position sensor electrical connector to the wiring harness connector.
(3) Attach connector to heater tube bracket.
(4) Install speed control servo. Tighten nuts to 9
N·m (80 in. lbs.) torque.
DISTRIBUTOR—2.5L
REMOVAL
(1) Remove bolt holding air inlet resonator to intake manifold.
(2) Loosen clamps holding air cleaner cover to air cleaner housing.
(3) Remove PCV make-up air hose from air inlet tube.
(4) Loosen hose clamp at throttle body.
(5) Remove air inlet tube, resonator and air cleaner cover.
(6) Remove EGR tube.
(7) Remove spark plug cables from distributor cap.
DISTRIBUTOR
8D - 24 IGNITION SYSTEM
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(8) Loosen distributor cap holddown screws and remove cap (Fig. 54).
(11) Remove 2 sets of distributor holddown nuts and washers from studs.
(12) Remove bolt and spark plug cable mounting bracket from top of distributor housing.
(13) Remove bolt and transmission dipstick tube.
(14) Carefully remove distributor from engine.
Fig. 54 Distributor Cap Screws
(9) Mark the rotor position and remove rotor. The mark indicates where to position the rotor when reinstalling the distributor.
(10) Remove 2 harness connectors from distributor
(Fig. 55).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install rotor on shaft.
(2) Position distributor in engine. Make certain that O-ring is properly seated on distributor. If
O-ring is cracked or nicked replace with a new one.
(3) Carefully engage distributor drive with slotted end of camshaft. When the distributor is installed properly, the rotor will be in line with previously scribe line on air intake plenum. If engine was cranked while distributor was removed, establish proper relationship between the distributor shaft and Number 1 piston position as follows:
(a) Rotate the crankshaft until number one piston is at top of compression stroke.
(b) Rotate rotor to number one rotor terminal.
(c) Lower distributor into opening, engaging distributor drive with drive on camshaft. With distributor fully seated on engine, rotor should be under the number 1 terminal.
(4) Install distributor holddown washers and nuts.
Tighten nuts to 13 N·m (9 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install spark plug cable bracket.
(6) Install 2 harness connectors to distributor.
(7) Install distributor cap.
(8) Install spark plug cables onto distributor cap.
The cap is numbered as well as the cables. Ensure sure all high tension wires are firmly in the cap towers.
(9) Install transmission dispstick tube.
(10) Install EGR tube to intake manifold. Tighten bolts to 11 N·m (95 in. lbs.) torque.
DISTRIBUTOR CAP—2.5L
Fig. 55 Distributor Electrical Connectors—
ViewedFrom Rear of Distributor
REMOVAL
(1) Remove bolt holding air inlet resonator to intake manifold.
(2) Loosen clamps holding air cleaner cover to air cleaner housing.
(3) Remove PCV make-up air hose from air inlet tube.
(4) Loosen hose clamp at throttle body.
(5) Remove air inlet tube, resonator and air cleaner cover.
(6) Remove EGR tube.
(7) Remove spark plug cables from distributor cap.
(8) Loosen distributor cap holddown screws and remove cap (Fig. 54).
ENGINE SENSOR
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(9) Transfer cables from old cap to new cap. The cap is numbered and so are the cables.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install distributor cap.
(2) Install distributor holddown washers and nuts.
Tighten nuts to 13 N·m (9 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install EGR tube.
(4) Install air inlet tube, resonator and air cleaner cover.
(5) Tighten hose clamp at throttle body.
(6) Install PCV make-up air hose from air inlet tube.
(7) Tighten clamps holding air cleaner cover to air cleaner housing.
(8) Install bolt holding air inlet resonator to intake manifold.
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 25
COMBINATION ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE
SENSOR—SOHC
The combination engine coolant sensor is located at the rear of the cylinder head next to the camshaft position sensor (Fig. 56). New sensors have sealant applied to the threads.
DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR—2.5L
REMOVAL
(1) Remove bolt holding air inlet resonator to intake manifold.
(2) Loosen clamps holding air cleaner cover to air cleaner housing.
(3) Remove PCV make-up air hose from air inlet tube.
(4) Loosen hose clamp at throttle body.
(5) Remove air inlet tube, resonator and air cleaner cover.
(6) Remove EGR tube.
(7) Remove spark plug cables from distributor cap.
(8) Loosen distributor cap holddown screws and remove cap (Fig. 54).
(9) Mark the rotor position and remove rotor. The mark indicates where to position the rotor when reinstalling the distributor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install rotor on shaft.
(2) Install distributor cap.
(3) Install spark plug cables onto distributor cap.
The cap is numbered as well as the cables. Ensure sure all high tension wires are firmly in the cap towers.
(4) Install EGR tube to intake manifold. Tighten bolts to 11 N·m (95 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Install air inlet tube, resonator and air cleaner cover.
(6) Tighten hose clamp at throttle body.
(7) Install PCV make-up air hose to air inlet tube.
(8) Tighten clamps holding air cleaner cover to air cleaner housing.
(9) Tighten bolt holding air inlet resonator to intake manifold.
Fig. 56 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
REMOVAL
(1) With the engine cold, drain the cooling system until coolant level drops below sensor. Refer to Group
7, Cooling System.
(2) Disconnect coolant sensor electrical connector.
(3) Remove coolant sensor
INSTALLATION
(1) Install coolant sensor. Tighten sensor to 18.6
N·m (165 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Attach electrical connector to sensor.
(3) Fill cooling system. Refer to Group 7, Cooling
System.
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR—2.5L
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is located next to the thermostat housing (Fig. 57).
REMOVAL
(1) With the engine cold, drain the cooling system until coolant level drops below sensor. Refer to Group
7, Cooling System.
(2) Disconnect ECT sensor electrical connector.
(3) Remove ECT sensor.
AIR
THROTTLE BODY
INLET
TUBE
COOLANT FILL
NECK
8D - 26 IGNITION SYSTEM
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
INSTALLATION
2.5L
(1) Install ECT sensor. Tighten sensor to 7 N·m
(60 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Attach electrical connector to sensor.
(3) Fill cooling system. Refer to Group 7, Cooling
System.
MAP SENINTAKE AIR TEM-
JA
Fig. 57 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor—
2.5LEngine
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The intake air temperature sensor threads into the intake manifold plenum (Fig. 58) or (Fig. 59).
REMOVAL
(1) Remove electrical connector from sensor.
(2) Remove sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install sensor. Tighten sensor to 28 N·m (20 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(2) Attach electrical connector to sensor.
Fig. 59 Intake Air TemperatureSensor and MAP
Sensor—2.5L
MAP/IAT SENSOR—SOHC
Refer to Group 14, Fuel Injection Section for
Removal/Installation.
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSOR—2.4L
The MAP sensor attaches to the intake manifold plenum (Fig. 58)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
MAP sensor.
(2) Remove sensor mounting screws.
(3) Remove sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert sensor into intake manifold while making sure not to damage O-ring seal.
(2) Tighten mounting screws to 2 N·m (20 in. lbs) torque.
(3) Attach electrical connector to sensor.
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSOR—2.5L
REMOVAL
(1) Remove mounting screws from sensor (Fig. 59).
(2) Unplug harness connector and remove sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Reverse the above procedure for installation.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
Refer to Group 14, Fuel Injection Section, for
Removal/Installation.
Fig. 58 Intake Air Temperature Sensor andMAP
Sensor—2.4L
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
IGNITION SWITCH
The ignition switch attaches to the lock cylinder housing on the end opposite the lock cylinder (Fig.
60). For ignition switch terminal and circuit identification, refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
LOWER SCREW LOCATIONS
COVER
LOCATIONS UNDER TOP
COVER
IGNITION SYSTEM
(3) Pull center bezel off (Fig. 62).
8D - 27
Fig. 60 Ignition Switch—Viewed FromBelow Column
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from auxillary jumper terminal on driver’s side strut tower.
(2) Remove fuse panel cover from left end of instrument panel. Remove screw holding end of instrument panel top cover (Fig. 61).
Fig. 62 Center Bezel
(4) Remove screws holding instrument panel top cover to center of instrument panel (Fig. 63).
Fig. 61 Instrument Panel Top Cover—LeftEnd
Fig. 63 Instrument Panel Top Cover—Center
(5) Pull instrument panel top cover up enough to gain access to knee bolster screws (Fig. 64).
Fig. 64 Knee Bolster Attaching Points
TILT LEVER
8D - 28 IGNITION SYSTEM
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(6) Remove lower knee bolster screws and knee bolster.
(7) Remove screws from lower steering column shroud (Fig. 65).
(9) Hold tilt wheel lever down and slide lower shroud forward to remove it from column (Fig. 67).
Fig. 65 Lower Steering Column Shroud
ScrewLocations
(8) Pull lower shroud to clear ignition cylinder and key release, if equipped (Fig. 66).
Fig. 67 Lower Shroud Removal
(10) Tilt wheel to full down position and remove upper steering column shroud.
(11) Remove screws holding multi-function switch to lock housing (Fig. 68).
Fig. 66 Remove Lower Shroud From
IgnitionCylinder
Fig. 68 Multi-Function Switch Removal/Installation
LOCK SWITCH
IGNITION SWITCH
SCREW
IGNITION SWITCH
LOCK HOUSING
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(12) Place key cylinder in RUN position. Depress lock cylinder retaining tab and remove key cylinder
(Fig. 69).
IGNITION SWITCH
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 29
Fig. 69 Lock Cylinder Removal
(13) Disconnect electrical connectors from ignition switch (Fig. 70) and (Fig. 71).
Fig. 71 Ignition Switch Connectors
(14) Remove ignition switch mounting screw (Fig.
70) with a #10 Torx t tamper proof bit.
(15) Depress retaining tabs (Fig. 60) and pull ignition switch from steering column.
INSTALLATION
(1) Ensure the ignition switch is in the RUN position and the actuator shaft in the lock housing is in the RUN position.
(2) Carefully install the ignition switch.
The switch will snap over the retaining tabs (Fig. 72).
Install mounting screw (Fig. 70).
(3) Install electrical connectors to ignition switch.
(4) Install upper and lower shrouds.
(5) Install key cylinder (cylinder retaining tab will depress only in the RUN position).
Fig. 70 Ignition Switch
SOCKET LOCK CYLINDER HOUSING
8D - 30 IGNITION SYSTEM
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(6) Connect negative cable to battery.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install key in lock cylinder. Turn key to run position (retaining tab on lock cylinder can be depressed).
(2) The shaft at the end of the lock cylinder aligns with the socket in the end of the housing. To align the socket with the lock cylinder, ensure the socket is in the Run position (Fig. 74).
Fig. 72 Ignition Switch Installation
(7) Check for proper operation of ignition switch and key-in warning switch.
LOCK KEY CYLINDER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from auxillary jumper terminal.
(2) Remove upper steering column shroud.
(3) Pull lower shroud down far enough to access lock cylinder retaining tab.
(4) Place key cylinder in RUN position. Depress retaining tab and remove key cylinder (Fig. 73).
Fig. 74 Socket in Lock CylinderHousing
(3) Align the lock cylinder with the grooves in the housing. Slide the lock cylinder into the housing until the tab sticks through the opening in the housing.
(4) Turn the key to the Off position. Remove the key.
(5) Install steering column shrouds.
(6) Connect negative cable to auxillary battery terminal on shock tower.
IGNITION INTERLOCK
Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for Shifter/Ignition
Interlock Service.
LOCK CYLINDER HOUSING
Refer to Steering Column in Group 19, Steering, for Lock Cylinder Housing Service.
Fig. 73 Lock Cylinder Retaining Tab
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IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 31
SPECIFICATIONS
VECI LABEL
If anything differs between the specifications found on the Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) label and the following specifications, use specifications on VECI label. The VECI label is located in the engine compartment.
FIRING ORDER
TORQUE SPECIFICATION
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Air Inlet tube Clamp . . . . . . . . . . 3 N·m (25 in. lbs.)
Camshaft Position
Sensor Screw . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
SOHC Cam Magnet/Target . . . . 4.5 N·m (40 in. lbs.)
Coolant Sensor—2.0L . . . . . . . . . 7 N·m (60 in. lbs.)
Coolant Sensor—2.4L . . . . . . . . . 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.)
Coolant Sensor—2.5L . . . . . . . . . 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.)
Crankshaft Position
Sensor Screw . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Coolant Temp. Sensor . . . . . . 18.6 N·m (165 in. lbs.)
Distributor Holddown
Nut—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 N·m (9 ft. lbs.)
EGR Tube to Intake . . . . . . . . . . 11 N·m (95 in. lbs.)
Ignition Coil to Cyl.
Head—2.0/2.4L . . . . . . . . . . 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
IAT Sensor—2.0L . . . . . . . . . . . 6.8 N·m (60 in. lbs.)
IAT Sensor—2.4/2.5L . . . . . . . 11.5 N·m (100 in. lbs.) nock Sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 N·m (90 in. lbs.)
MAP/IAT Sensor Plastic
Manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 N·m (20 in. lbs.)
MAP/IAT Sensor Aluminum
Manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 N·m (30 in. lbs.)
MAP Sensor—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . 3.4 N·m (30 in. lbs.)
Spark Plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.)
FIRING ORDER—2.0/2.4L
FIRING ORDER—2.5L
8D - 32 IGNITION SYSTEM
SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE—2.0L
CABLE
#1,#4
#2,#3
RESISTANCE
3500 ohms—
4900 ohms
2950 ohms—
4100 ohms
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE—2.4L
CABLE
#1,#4
#2,#3
RESISTANCE
3500 ohms—
4900 ohms
2950 ohms—
4100 ohms
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE—2.5L
MINIMUM
250 Ohms Per Inch
3000 Ohms Per Foot
MAXIMUM
560 Ohms Per
Inch
6700 Ohms Per
Foot
SPARK PLUGS
Engine Spark Plug
2.0L
2.4L
2.5L
RC9YC
RC12YC5
RC10PYP4
Gap
0.033 to 0.033 in.
0.048 to 0.053 in.
0.038 to 0.043 in.
Thread Size
14 mm (3/4 in.) reach
14mm (3/4 in.) reach
14 mm (3/4 in.) reach
JA
DIAMOND (BRASS TOWERS)
JA
SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)
IGNITION COILS
2.0/2.4L
2.5L
Engines
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 33
Coil Manufacture
Toyodenso/Diamond
Melco
Primary Resistance at 21°C-27°C (70°F-
80°F)
0.51 TO 0.61 Ohms
0.6 TO 0.8 Ohms
Secondary Resistance at 21°C-27°C
(70°F-80°F)
11,500 to 13,500 Ohms
12,500 to 18,000 Ohms
Coil Polarity Coil Polarity
8D - 34 IGNITION SYSTEM
SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)
JA
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IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 1
IGNITION SYSTEM
GENERAL INFORMATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
. . . . . . . . . . . 5
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.0/2.4L
. . . . 8
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.5L . . . . . . . 9
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR . . . . . . . . . . 6
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.5L . . . . . 7
ELECTRONIC IGNITION COIL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR . . 9
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
IGNITION INTERLOCK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR—2.0L . . 10
SENSOR—2.4/2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
KNOCK SENSOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
LOCK KEY CYLINDER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
. . . . 2
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
SPARK PLUGS—2.0/2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
SPARK PLUGS—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)
. . . . . . 11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
. . . . . . . 14
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
TEST—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR . 14
FAILURE TO START TEST—2.0/2.4L
. . . . . . . . 13
FAILURE TO START TEST—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . 14
. . . . . . . . . . . 14
. . . . . . 14
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSOR TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
SPARK PLUG CONDITION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
TESTING FOR SPARK AT COIL—2.0/2.4L
. . . . 11
TESTING FOR SPARK AT COIL—2.5L . . . . . . . 12
CONTENTS page page
. . . . . . . . . . . 14
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
. . . . . . . . . . 21
. . . . 22
. . . . 21
. . . . . . . . 25
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.0/2.4 L . 23
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.5L . . . . 23
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
DISTRIBUTOR—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
SENSOR—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
IGNITION COIL—2.0/2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
IGNITION INTERLOCK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
IGNITION SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
. . . . . . 26
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
LOCK KEY CYLINDER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSOR—2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSOR—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
MAP/IAT SENSOR—SOHC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE . . . . . . . . . 17
SPARK PLUG CABLES—2.0/2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . 17
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
SPARK PLUGS AND CABLES—2.5L . . . . . . . . . 18
SPARK PLUG—2.0/2.4L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
. . . . . . . . . . . 26
SPECIFICATIONS
FIRING ORDER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE—2.0L . . . . 32
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE—2.4L . . . . 32
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE—2.5L . . . . 32
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
TORQUE SPECIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
VECI LABEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
POWER DISTRIBUTION
POWERTRAIN CON-
TROL MODULE
8D - 2 IGNITION SYSTEM
JA
GENERAL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION
This group describes the ignition systems for the
2.0, 2.4 and 2.5L engines.
On Board Diagnostics is described in Group 25 -
Emission Control Systems.
Group 0 - Lubrication and Maintenance, contains general maintenance information for ignition related items. The Owner’s Manual also contains maintenance information.
(2.0/2.4L). By switching the ground path for the coil on and off, the PCM adjusts ignition timing to meet changing engine operating conditions.
On a 2.5L The PCM controls ignition timing by turning on and off a tranisistor in the distributor.
Refer to 2.5L Ignition Coil in this Group for more information.
During the crank-start period the PCM maintains spark advance at 9° BTDC. During engine operation the following inputs determine the amount of spark advance provided by the PCM.
• Intake air temperature
• Coolant temperature
•
Engine RPM
•
Intake manifold vacuum
•
Knock sensor (2.0/2.4L Engines)
The PCM also regulates the fuel injection system.
Refer to the Fuel Injection sections of Group 14.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
IGNITION SYSTEM
NOTE: The 2.0, 2.4, and 2.5L engines use a fixed ignition timing system. Basic ignition timing is not adjustable. All spark advance is determined by the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
The distributorless ignition system used on
2.0/2.4L engines is refered to as the Direct Ignition
System (DIS). Basic ignition timing is not adjust-
able. The system’s three main components are the coil pack, crankshaft position sensor, and camshaft position sensor.
The crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor are hall effect devices. The camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor generate pulses that are inputs to the PCM. The PCM determines crankshaft position from these sensors. The
PCM calculates injector sequence and ignition timing from crankshaft position. For a description of both sensors, refer to Camshaft Position Sensor and
Crankshaft Position Sensor in this section.
The 2.5L engine uses a distributor, crankshaft sensor and ignition coil. Basic ignition timing is not
adjustable. The system’s main components are the distributor, distributor pickup, camshaft signal, crankshaft signal and ignition coil.
The crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor are hall effect devices. The camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor generate pulses that are inputs to the PCM. The PCM determines crankshaft position from these sensors. The
PCM calculates injector sequence and ignition timing from crankshaft position. For a description of both sensors, refer to Camshaft Position Sensor and
Crankshaft Position Sensor in this section.
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM)
The PCM regulates the ignition system (Fig. 1).
The PCM supplies battery voltage to the ignition coil through the Auto Shutdown (ASD) Relay. The PCM also controls the ground circuit for the ignition coil
Fig. 1 Powertrain Control Module
SPARK PLUGS—2.0/2.4L
All engines use resistor spark plugs. They have resistance values ranging from 6,000 to 20,000 ohms when checked with at least a 1000 volt spark plug tester.
Do not use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the spark plugs. This will give an inaccurate reading.
Remove the spark plugs and examine them for burned electrodes and fouled, cracked or broken porcelain insulators. Keep plugs arranged in the order in which they were removed from the engine. An isolated plug displaying an abnormal condition indicates that a problem exists in the corresponding cylinder.
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
Replace spark plugs at the intervals recommended in
Group O - Lubrication and Maintenance.
Spark plugs that have low mileage may be cleaned and reused if not otherwise defective, carbon or oil fouled. Refer to the Spark Plug Condition section of this group. After cleaning, file the center electrode flat with a small flat point file or jewelers file. Adjust the gap between the electrodes (Fig. 3) to the dimensions specified in the chart at the end of this section.
Special care should be used when installing spark plugs in the 2.0/2.4L cylinder head spark plug wells.
Be sure the plugs do not drop into the wells, damage to the electrodes can occur.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a change in the spark plug gap. Overtightening can also damage the cylinder head. Tighten spark plugs to 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 3
The spark plugs are double platinum and have a recommended service life of 100,000 miles for normal driving conditions per schedule A in this manual. The spark plugs have a recommended service life of
75,000 miles for serve driving conditions per schedule
B in this manual. A thin platinum pad is welded to both electrode ends as show in (Fig. 2). Extreme care must be used to prevent spark plug cross threading, mis-gaping and ceramic insulator damage during plug removal and installation.
CAUTION: Never attempt to file the electrodes or use a wire brush for cleaning platinum plugs. This would damage the platinum pads which would shorten spark plug life.
Apply a very small amount of anti-seize compound to the threads when reinstalling the vehicle’s original spark plugs that have been determined good. Do not apply anti-seize compound to new spark plugs.
SPARK PLUGS—2.5L
The 2.5L engines utilize platinum spark plugs.
Refer to the maintenance schedule in Group 0 of this service manual.
All engines use resistor spark plugs. They have resistance values ranging from 6,000 to 20,000 ohms when checked with at least a 1000 volt spark plug tester.
Do not use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the spark plugs. This will give an inaccurate reading.
Remove the spark plugs and examine them for burned electrodes and fouled, cracked or broken porcelain insulators. Keep plugs arranged in the order in which they were removed from the engine. An isolated plug displaying an abnormal condition indicates that a problem exists in the corresponding cylinder.
Replace spark plugs at the intervals recommended in
Group O - Lubrication and Maintenance.
Spark plugs that have low mileage may be cleaned and reused if not otherwise defective, carbon or oil fouled. Refer to the Spark Plug Condition section of this group.
NOTE: Anti-seize compound is electrically conductive and can cause engine misfires if not applied correctly. It is extremely important that the antiseize compound doesn’t make contact with the spark plug electrodes or ceramic insulator.
Never force a gap gauge between the platinum electrodes or adjust the gap on platinum spark plugs without reading the 2.5L Spark Plug Gap Measurement procedures in this section.
Always tighten spark plugs to the specified torque.
Over tightening can cause distortion resulting in a change in the spark plug gap. Overtightening can also damage the cylinder head. Tighten spark plugs to 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
Due to the engine packaging environment for the
2.5L engines, extreme care should be used when installing the spark plugs to avoid cross threading problems.
PLATINUM
8D - 4 IGNITION SYSTEM
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
2.5L SPARK PLUG GAP MEASUREMENT CAUTION: Cleaning of the platinum plug may damage the platinum tip.
CAUTION: The Platinum pads can be damaged during the measurement of checking the gap if extreme care is not used.
• Use only a taper gap gauge (Fig. 3)
• Never force the gap gauge through the platinum pads. Only apply enough force until resistance is felt.
• Never use a wire brush or spark plug cleaner machine to clean platinum spark plugs
• Use an OSHA approved air nozzle when drying gas fouled spark plugs.
If gap adjustment is required of platinum plug, bend only the ground electrode. DO NOT TOUCH the platinum pads. Use only a proper gapping tool and check with a taper gap gauge.
Fig. 2 Platinum Pads
Fig. 3 Setting Spark Plug Electrode Gap
SPARK PLUG CABLES
Spark Plug cables are sometimes referred to as secondary ignition wires. They transfer electrical current from the distributor (2.5L), coil pack (2.0/2.4L), to individual spark plugs at each cylinder. The resistor type, nonmetallic spark plug cables provide suppression of radio frequency emissions from the ignition system.
Check the spark plug cable connections for good contact at the coil and distributor cap towers and at the spark plugs. Terminals should be fully seated.
The nipples and spark plug covers should be in good condition. Nipples should fit tightly on the coil and distributor cap towers and spark plug cover should fit tight around spark plug insulators. Loose cable connections can cause ignition malfunctions by permitting water to enter the towers, corroding, and increasing resistance. To maintain proper sealing at the terminal connections, the connections should not be broken unless testing indicates high resistance, an open circuit or other damage.
Clean high tension cables with a cloth moistened with a non-flammable solvent and wipe dry. Check for brittle or cracked insulation.
SPARK HIGH IGNITION COIL
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
ELECTRONIC IGNITION COIL
WARNING: THE DIRECT IGNITION SYSTEM GEN-
ERATES APPROXIMATELY 40,000 VOLTS.
PER-
SONAL INJURY COULD RESULT FROM CONTACT
WITH THIS SYSTEM.
The coil pack consists of 2 coils molded together.
The coil pack is mounted on the valve cover (Fig. 4) and (Fig. 5). High tension leads route to each cylinder from the coil. The coil fires two spark plugs every power stroke. One plug is the cylinder under compression, the other cylinder fires on the exhaust stroke. Coil number one fires cylinders 1 and 4. Coil number two fires cylinders 2 and 3. The PCM determines which of the coils to charge and fire at the correct time.
The Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay provides battery voltage to the ignition coil. The PCM provides a ground contact (circuit) for energizing the coil. When the PCM breaks the contact, the energy in the coil primary transfers to the secondary causing the spark. The PCM will de-energize the ASD relay if it does not receive the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor inputs. Refer to Auto Shutdown (ASD) Relay—PCM Output, in this section for relay operation.
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 5
IGNITION COIL—2.5L
The 2.5L engine uses an epoxy type coil. The coils are not oil filled. The windings are embedded in a heat and vibration resistant epoxy compound.
On a 2.5L the ignition transistor is located in the distributor (pin 11). On a 2.5L The PCM controls ignition timing by turning on and off the tranisistor in the distributor. By switching the ground path for the coil on and off, the PCM adjusts ignition timing to meet changing engine operating conditions.
The PCM operates the ignition coil through the
Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay. When the relay is energized by the PCM, battery voltage is connected to the ignition coil positive terminal. The PCM will de-energize the ASD relay if it does not receive an input from the distributor pick-up. Refer to Auto Shutdown
(ASD) Relay and Fuel Pump Relay in this section.
The ignition coil is located inside the distibutor.
The distributor is mounted to the right end of the engine block behind the thermostat housing (Fig. 6).
Fig. 4 Ignition Coil Pack—2.0L Engine
Fig. 5 Ignition Coil Pack—2.4L Engine
Fig. 6 Ignition Coil—2.5L Engine
AUTOMATIC SHUTDOWN RELAY
The Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay supplies battery voltage to the fuel injectors, generator field, electronic ignition coil and the heating elements in the oxygen sensors.
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams for circuit information.
The PCM controls the ASD relay by switching the ground path for the solenoid side of the relay on and off. The PCM turns the ground path off when the ignition switch is in the Off position unless the O2
Heater Monitor test is being run. Refer to Group 25,
POWER DISTRIBUTION
8D - 6
POWERTRAIN CON-
TROL MODULE
IGNITION SYSTEM
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
On-Board Diagnostics. When the ignition switch is in
On or Start, the PCM momentarily turns on the ASD relay. While the relay is on the PCM monitors the crankshaft and camshaft position sensor signals to determine engine speed and ignition timing (coil dwell). If the PCM does not receive crankshaft and camshaft position sensor signals when the ignition switch is in the Run position, it will de-energize the
ASD relay.
The ASD relay is located in the PDC (Fig. 7). The inside top of the PDC cover has a label showing relay and fuse identification.
Fig. 7 Power Distribution Center (PDC)
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
The PCM determines what cylinder to fire from the crankshaft position sensor input and the camshaft position sensor input. The second crankshaft counterweight has machined into it two sets of four timing reference notches including a 60 degree signature notch (Fig. 8). From the crankshaft position sensor input the PCM determines engine speed and crankshaft angle (position).
The notches generate pulses from high to low in the crankshaft position sensor output voltage. When a metal portion of the counterweight aligns with the crankshaft position sensor, the sensor output voltage goes low (less than 0.5 volts). When a notch aligns with the sensor, voltage goes high (5.0 volts). As a group of notches pass under the sensor, the output voltage switches from low (metal) to high (notch) then back to low.
If available, an oscilloscope can display the square wave patterns of each voltage pulse. From the frequency of the output voltage pulses, the PCM calculates engine speed. The width of the pulses represent the amount of time the output voltage stays high before switching back to low. The period of time the sensor output voltage stays high before switching back to low is referred to as pulse-width. The faster the engine is operating, the smaller the pulse-width on the oscilloscope.
By counting the pulses and referencing the pulse from the 60 degree signature notch, the PCM calculates crankshaft angle (position). In each group of timing reference notches, the first notch represents
69 degrees before top dead center (BTDC). The second notch represents 49 degrees BTDC. The third notch represents 29 degrees. The last notch in each set represents 9 degrees before top dead center
BTDC.
The timing reference notches are machined at 20° increments. From the voltage pulse-width the PCM tells the difference between the timing reference notches and the 60 degree signature notch. The 60 degree signature notch produces a longer pulse-width than the smaller timing reference notches. If the camshaft position sensor input switches from high to low when the 60 degree signature notch passes under the crankshaft position sensor, the PCM knows cylinder number one is the next cylinder at TDC.
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
CRANKSHAFT POSITION CONVERTOR PLATE
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 7
Fig. 8 Timing Reference Notches
The crankshaft position sensor mounts to the engine block behind the generator, just above the oil filter (Fig. 9).
Fig. 9 Crankshaft Position Sensor
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.5L
The crankshaft position sensor (Fig. 10) detects slots cut into the transmission driveplate extension.
There are 3 sets of slots. Each set contains 4 slots, for a total of 12 slots (Fig. 11). Basic timing is set by the position of the last slot in each group. Once the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) senses the last slot, it determines crankshaft position (which piston will next be at TDC) from the camshaft position sensor input. The 4 pulses generated by the crankshaft position sensor represent the 69°, 49°, 29°, and 9°
BTDC marks. It may take the PCM one engine revolution to determine crankshaft position.
Fig. 10 Crankshaft Position Sensor—Adjustable
Fig. 11 Timing Slots
CRANKSHAFT SOR
8D - 8 IGNITION SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
The PCM uses crankshaft position reference to determine injector sequence, ignition timing and the presence of misfire. Once the PCM determines crankshaft position, it begins energizing the injectors in sequence.
The crankshaft sensor is located on the rear of the transmission housing, above the differential housing
(Fig. 12). The sensor connector has a christmas tree attached to the heater tube bracket. The bottom of the sensor is positioned next to the drive plate.
CAM MAGNET/TARGET
JA
Fig. 12 Crankshaft Position Sensor Location—
Typical
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.0/2.4L
The PCM determines fuel injection synchronization and cylinder identification from inputs provided by the camshaft position sensor (Fig. 13) and (Fig. 14) and crankshaft position sensor. From the two inputs, the PCM determines crankshaft position.
Fig. 14 Camshaft Position Sensor—2.4LDOHC
The camshaft position sensor attaches to the rear of the cylinder head (Fig. 15). A target magnet attaches to the rear of the camshaft and indexes to the correct position. The target magnet has four different poles arranged in an asymmetrical pattern. As the target magnet rotates, the camshaft position sensor senses the change in polarity (Fig. 16). The sensor input switches from high (5 volts) to low (0.30
volts) as the target magnet rotates. When the north pole of the target magnet passes under the sensor, the output switches high. The sensor output switches low when the south pole of the target magnet passes underneath.
Fig. 13 Camshaft Position Sensor—2.0LSOHC
Fig. 15 Target Magnet—Typical
SIGNAL
JA
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 9
When the trailing edge of the shutter leaves the sync signal generator, the change of magnetic field causes the sync signal voltage to switch low to 0 volts.
Fig. 16 Target Magnet Polarity
The camshaft position sensor is mounted to the rear of the cylinder head. The sensor also acts as a thrust plate to control camshaft endplay.
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.5L
The PCM determines fuel injection synchronization and cylinder identification from inputs provided by the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor. From the two inputs, the PCM determines crankshaft position.
The 2.5L engine is equipped with a camshaft driven mechanical distributor, containing a shaft driven distributor rotor. The distributor is also equipped with an internal camshaft position (fuel sync) sensor (Fig. 17). This sensor provides fuel injection synchronization and cylinder identification to the PCM.
The camshaft position sensor contains a hall effect device called a sync signal generator. This sync signal generator detects a rotating pulse ring (shutter) on the distributor shaft. The pulse ring rotates 180 through the sync signal generator. Its signal is used in conjunction with the crankshaft position sensor to differentiate between fuel injection and spark events.
It is also used to synchronize the fuel injectors with their respective cylinders.
When the leading edge of the shutter enters the sync signal generator, the interruption of magnetic field causes the voltage to switch high. This causes a sync signal of approximately 5 volts.
Fig. 17 Camshaft Position Sensor—2.5LEngine
Since the shutter rotates at half crankshaft speed, it may take 1 engine revolution during cranking for the PCM to determine the position of piston number
6.
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor has one element. The sensor provides an input voltage to the PCM. The sensor is a variable resistance (thermistor) with a range of -40°F to 265°F. As coolant temperature varies, the sensors resistance changes, resulting in a different input voltage to the PCM.
The PCM contains different spark advance schedules for cold and warm engine operation. The schedules reduce engine emissions and improve driveability. Because spark advance changes at different engine operating temperatures during warm-up, all spark advance testing should be done with the engine fully warmed.
The PCM demands slightly richer air-fuel mixtures and higher idle speeds until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.
The engine coolant sensor input is also used for radiator fan control.
MAP/AIR TEMPERATURE MAP SENSOR THROTTLE BODY
8D - 10 IGNITION SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR—2.0L
The intake air temperature sensor measures the temperature of the air as it enters the engine. The sensor supplies one of the inputs the PCM uses to determine injector pulse-width.
The MAP/Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor, located on the intake manifold, combines the MAP and Intake Air Temperature (IAT) functions into one sensor (Fig. 18).
MAP SENINTAKE AIR TEM-
JA
Fig. 18 MAP/IAT Sensor—2.0L
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR—2.4/2.5L
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor measures the temperature of the air as it enters the engine.
The sensor supplies one of the inputs the PCM uses to determine injector pulse-width.
The IAT sensor threads into the intake manifold
(Fig. 19) or (Fig. 20).
Fig. 20 Intake Air TemperatureSensor and MAP
Sensor—2.5L
KNOCK SENSOR
The knock sensor threads into the side of the cylinder block in front of the starter motor. When the knock sensor detects a knock in one of the cylinders, it sends an input signal to the PCM. In response, the
PCM retards ignition timing for all cylinders by a scheduled amount.
Knock sensors contain a piezoelectric material which constantly vibrates and sends an input voltage
(signal) to the PCM while the engine operates. As the intensity of the crystal’s vibration increase, the knock sensor output voltage also increases.
NOTE: Over or under tightening effects knock sensor performance, possibly causing improper spark control.
Fig. 19 Intake Air Temperature Sensor andMAP
Sensor—2.4L
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) supplies 5 volts to the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. The MAP sensor converts intake manifold pressure into voltage. The PCM monitors the MAP sensor output voltage. As vacuum increases, MAP sensor voltage decreases proportionately. Also, as vacuum decreases, MAP sensor voltage increases proportionately.
During cranking, before the engine starts running, the PCM determines atmospheric air pressure from the MAP sensor voltage. While the engine operates, the PCM determines intake manifold pressure from the MAP sensor voltage. Based on MAP sensor voltage and inputs from other sensors, the PCM adjusts spark advance and the air/fuel mixture.
The MAP sensor mounts to the intake manifold.
ON/RUN START A GOOD ENGINE
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)
The TPS mounts to the side of the throttle body.
The TPS connects to the throttle blade shaft. The
TPS is a variable resistor that provides the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with an input signal
(voltage). The signal represents throttle blade position. As the position of the throttle blade changes, the resistance of the TPS changes.
The PCM supplies approximately 5 volts to the
TPS. The TPS output voltage (input signal to the powertrain control module) represents throttle blade position. The TPS output voltage to the PCM varies from approximately 0.38 volts to 1.2 volts at minimum throttle opening (idle) to a maximum of 3.1
volts to 4.4 volts at wide open throttle.
Along with inputs from other sensors, the PCM uses the TPS input to determine current engine operating conditions. The PCM also adjusts fuel injector pulse width and ignition timing based on these inputs.
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 11
Transaxle for Automatic Transmission Shifter/Ignition Interlock.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
TESTING FOR SPARK AT COIL—2.0/2.4L
WARNING: THE DIRECT IGNITION SYSTEMS GEN-
ERATES APPROXIMATELY 40,000 VOLTS.
PER-
SONAL INJURY COULD RESULT FROM CONTACT
WITH THIS SYSTEM.
The coil pack contains independent coils. Each coil must be checked individually.
CAUTION: Spark plug wire damage may occur if the spark plug is moved more than 1/4 inch away from the engine ground.
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable disconnected any longer than 30 seconds or possible heat damage to catalytic converter will occur.
LOCK KEY CYLINDER
The lock cylinder is inserted in the end of the housing opposite the ignition switch. The ignition key rotates the cylinder to 5 different detents (Fig. 21):
• Accessory
• Off (lock)
• Unlock
• On/Run
• Start
CAUTION: Test must be performed at idle and in park only with the parking brake on.
NOTE: New isolated engine valve cover may not provide adequate ground. Use engine block as engine ground.
Use a new spark plug and spark plug cable for the following test.
(1) Insert a new spark plug into the new spark plug boot. Ground the plug to the engine (Fig. 22).
Do not hold with your hand.
Fig. 21 IgnitionLock Cylinder Detents
IGNITION INTERLOCK
All vehicles equipped with automatic transaxles have an interlock system. The system prevents shifting the vehicle out of Park unless the ignition lock cylinder is in the Off, Run or Start position. In addition, the operator cannot rotate the key to the lock position unless the shifter is in the park position. On vehicles equipped with floor shift refer to Group 21 -
Fig. 22 Testing For Spark
8D - 12 IGNITION SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
(2) Starting with coil insulator #1, remove it from the DIS coil.
(3) Plug the test spark plug cable onto #1 coil tower. Make sure a good connection is made; there should be a click sound.
(4) Crank the engine and look for spark across the electrodes of the spark plug.
CAUTION: Always install the cable back on the coil tower after testing to avoid damage to the coil and catalytic converter.
(5) Repeat the above test for the remaining coils. If there is no spark during all cylinder tests, proceed to the Failure To Start Test.
(6) If one or more tests indicate irregular, weak, or no spark, proceed to Check Coil Test.
TESTING FOR SPARK AT COIL—2.5L
WARNING: THE IGNITION SYSTEM GENERATES
APPROXIMATELY 32,000 VOLTS.
PERSONAL
INJURY COULD RESULT FROM CONTACT WITH
THIS SYSTEM.
CAUTION: Spark plug wire damage may occur if the spark plug is moved more than 1/4 inch away from the engine ground.
CAUTION: Do not leave any one spark plug cable disconnected any longer than necessary during test or possible heat damage to catalytic converter will occur. Total test time must not exceed 1 minute.
Use a new spark plug and spark plug cable for the following test.
(1) Insert a new spark plug into the new spark plug boot. Ground the plug to the engine (Fig. 22).
(2) Remove distributor cap. Refer to Distributor
Service in this section.
(3) Plug test spark plug cable onto coil tower.
(4) Crank engine and look for spark across the electrodes of the spark plug. If there is no spark, check for: (Fig. 23)
• Continuity from PCM pin 11 to 6-way connector terminal 1
• Continuity between ground and 6-way connector terminal 2
• Continuity from PCM pin 6 to 2-way connector terminal 2
• Correct resistance in distributor cap, refer to
Distributor Cap Resistance Test.
(5) If all circuits show continuity, replace distributor assembly.
CAV
CYLINDERS 2 & 3
COLOR
GROUND
CMP SENSOR SIGNAL
FUSED IGN SWITCH OUTPUT
SENSOR GROUND
CAV COLOR
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Fig. 23 Distributor Connectors
CHECK COIL TEST—2.4L
Coil one fires cylinders 1 and 4, coil two fires cylinders 2 and 3. Each coil tower is labeled with the number of the corresponding cylinder.
(1) Remove ignition cables and measure the resistance of the cables. Resistance must be within the range shown in the Cable Resistance Chart in Specifications. Replace any cable not within tolerance.
(2) Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil pack.
(3) Measure the primary resistance of each coil. At the coil, connect an ohmmeter between the B+ pin and the pin corresponding to the cylinders in question (Fig. 24). Resistance on the primary side of each coil should be 0.45 - 0.65 ohm at (70° to 80° F).
Replace the coil if resistance is not within tolerance.
Fig. 24 Terminal Identification
IGNITION COILS
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
(4) Remove ignition cables from the secondary towers of the coil. Measure the secondary resistance of the coil between the towers of each individual coil
(Fig. 25). Secondary resistance should be 7,000 to
15,800 ohms. Replace the coil if resistance is not within tolerance.
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 13
sensor signal immediately after detecting the camshaft position sensor signal.
(1) Check battery voltage. Voltage should approximately 12.66 volts or higher to perform failure to start test.
(2) Disconnect the harness connector from the coil pack (Fig. 26).
(3) Connect a test light to the B+ (battery voltage) terminal of the coil electrical connector and ground.
The B+ wire for the DIS coil is the center terminal.
Do not spread the terminal with the test light probe.
Fig. 25 Checking Ignition Coil SecondaryResistance
CHECK COIL TEST—2.5L
Measure primary coil resistance at the 2 pin distributor connector. Resistance should be between 0.6
and 0.8 ohms.
Measure secondary coil resistance between the coil tower and each terminal of the 2 pin distributor connector. Resistance should be 12k to 18k ohms.
FAILURE TO START TEST—2.0/2.4L
This no-start test checks the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor.
Use the DRB scan tool to test the camshaft position sensor and the sensor circuits. Refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostics Procedure Manual. Refer to the wiring diagrams section for circuit information.
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) supplies 8 volts to the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor through one circuit. If the 8 volt supply circuit shorts to ground, neither sensor will produce a signal (output voltage to the PCM).
When the ignition key is turned and left in the On position, the PCM automatically energizes the Auto
Shutdown (ASD) relay. However, the controller de-energizes the relay within one second because it has not received a camshaft position sensor signal indicating engine rotation.
During cranking, the ASD relay will not energize until the PCM receives a camshaft position sensor signal. Secondly, the ASD relay remains energized only if the controller senses a crankshaft position
Fig. 26 Ignition Coil Engine Harness Connector
(4) Turn the ignition key to the ON position. The test light should flash On and then Off. Do not turn the Key to off position, leave it in the On posi-
tion .
(a) If the test light flashes momentarily, the
PCM grounded the ASD relay. Proceed to step 5.
(b) If the test light did not flash, the ASD relay did not energize. The cause is either the relay or one of the relay circuits. Use the DRB scan tool to test the ASD relay and circuits. Refer to the appropriate Powertrain Diagnostics Procedure Manual.
Refer to the wiring diagrams section for circuit information.
(5) Crank the engine. (If the key was placed in the off position after step 4, place the key in the On position before cranking. Wait for the test light to flash once, then crank the engine.)
(6) If the test light momentarily flashes during cranking, the PCM is not receiving a crankshaft position sensor signal.
(7) If the test light did not flash during cranking, unplug the crankshaft position sensor connector.
Turn the ignition key to the off position. Turn the key to the On position, wait for the test light to momentarily flash once, then crank the engine. If the test light momentarily flashes, the crankshaft position sensor is shorted and must be replaced. If the
NORMAL DRY COLD (CARBON) FOULING
8D - 14 IGNITION SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued) light did not flash, the cause of the no-start is in either the crankshaft position sensor/camshaft position sensor 8 volt supply circuit, or the camshaft position sensor output or ground circuits.
FAILURE TO START TEST—2.5L
NOTE: Before proceeding with this test make sure
Testing For Spark At Coil has been performed. Failure to do this may lead to unnecessary diagnostic time and wrong test results.
Refer to Group 25 for On-Board Diagnostic checks.
Also, refer to the DRB scan tool and the appropriate
Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures manual. These checks will help diagnose problems with the PCM and ASD relay.
IGNITION TIMING PROCEDURE
The engines for this vehicle, use a fixed ignition system. The PCM regulates ignition timing. Basic ignition timing is not adjustable.
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR AND CRANKSHAFT
POSITION SENSOR
The output voltage of a properly operating camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor switches from high (5.0 volts) to low (0.3 volts). By connecting an Moper Diagonostic System (MDS) and engine analyzer to the vehicle, technicians can view the square wave pattern.
DISTRIBUTOR CAP RESISTANCE TEST—2.5L
There is a resistor built into the distributor cap.
Connect an ohmmeter between the center button and igntion coil terminal. Ohmmeter should read 5000 ohms.
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Refer to Group 14, Fuel System for Diagnosis and
Testing.
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
Refer to Group 14, Fuel System, for Diagnosis and
Testing.
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR
TEST
Refer to Group 14, Fuel System for Diagnosis and
Testing.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
To perform a complete test of the this sensor and its circuitry, refer to the DRB scan tool and appropriate Powertrain Diagnostics Procedures manual. To
JA test the throttle position sensor only, refer to the following:
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) can be tested with a digital voltmeter (DVM). The center terminal of the sensor is the output terminal. One of the other terminals is a 5 volt supply and the remaining terminal is ground.
Connect the DVM between the center and sensor ground terminal. Refer to Group 8W - Wiring Diagrams for correct pinout.
With the ignition switch in the ON position, check the output voltage at the center terminal wire of the connector. Check the output voltage at idle and at
Wide-Open-Throttle (WOT). At idle, TPS output voltage should be approximately 0.38 volts to 1.2 volts.
At wide open throttle, TPS output voltage should be approximately 3.1 volts to 4.4 volts. The output voltage should gradually increase as the throttle plate moves slowly from idle to WOT.
Check for spread terminals at the sensor and PCM connections before replacing the TPS.
SPARK PLUG CONDITION
NORMAL OPERATING CONDITIONS
The few deposits present will be probably light tan or slightly gray in color with most grades of commercial gasoline (Fig. 27). There will not be evidence of electrode burning. Gap growth will not average more than approximately 0.025 mm (.001 in) per 1600 km
(1000 miles) of operation for non platinum spark plugs. Non-platnium spark plugs that have normal wear can usually be cleaned, have the electrodes filed and regapped, and then reinstalled.
CAUTION: Never attempt to file the electrodes or use a wire brush for cleaning platinum spark plugs.
This would damage the platinum pads which would shorten spark plug life.
Fig. 27 Normal Operation and Cold (Carbon)Fouling
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
Some fuel refiners in several areas of the United
States have introduced a manganese additive (MMT) for unleaded fuel. During combustion, fuel with MMT may coat the entire tip of the spark plug with a rust colored deposit. The rust color deposits can be misdiagnosed as being caused by coolant in the combustion chamber. Spark plug performance is not affected by
MMT deposits.
COLD FOULING (CARBON FOULING)
Cold fouling is sometimes referred to as carbon fouling because the deposits that cause cold fouling are basically carbon (Fig. 27). A dry, black deposit on one or two plugs in a set may be caused by sticking valves or misfire conditions. Cold (carbon) fouling of the entire set may be caused by a clogged air cleaner.
Cold fouling is normal after short operating periods. The spark plugs do not reach a high enough operating temperature during short operating periods. Replace carbon fouled plugs with new spark plugs.
FUEL FOULING
A spark plug that is coated with excessive wet fuel is called fuel fouled. This condition is normally observed during hard start periods. Clean fuel fouled spark plugs with compressed air and reinstall them in the engine.
OIL FOULING
A spark plug that is coated with excessive wet oil is oil fouled. In older engines, wet fouling can be caused by worn rings or excessive cylinder wear.
Break-in fouling of new engines may occur before normal oil control is achieved. Replace oil fouled spark plugs with new ones.
OIL OR ASH ENCRUSTED
If one or more plugs are oil or ash encrusted, evaluate the engine for the cause of oil entering the combustion chambers (Fig. 28). Sometimes fuel additives can cause ash encrustation on an entire set of spark plugs. Ash encrusted spark plugs can be cleaned and reused.
HIGH SPEED MISS
When replacing spark plugs because of a high speed miss condition; wide open throttle opera- tion should be avoided for approximately 80 km
(50 miles) after installation of new plugs. This will allow deposit shifting in the combustion chamber to take place gradually and avoid plug destroying splash fouling shortly after the plug change.
ELECTRODE GAP BRIDGING
Loose deposits in the combustion chamber can cause electrode gap bridging. The deposits accumu-
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 15
Fig. 28 Oil or Ash Encrusted
late on the spark plugs during continuous stopand-go driving.
When the engine is suddenly subjected to a high torque load, the deposits partially liquefy and bridge the gap between the electrodes
(Fig. 29). This short circuits the electrodes. Spark plugs with electrode gap bridging can be cleaned and reused.
Fig. 29 Electrode Gap Bridging
SCAVENGER DEPOSITS
Fuel scavenger deposits may be either white or yellow (Fig. 30). They may appear to be harmful, but are a normal condition caused by chemical additives in certain fuels. These additives are designed to change the chemical nature of deposits and decrease spark plug misfire tendencies. Notice that accumulation on the ground electrode and shell area may be
OR
8D - 16 IGNITION SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued) heavy but the deposits are easily removed. Spark plugs with scavenger deposits can be considered normal in condition, cleaned and reused.
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PREIGNITION DAMAGE
Excessive combustion chamber temperature can cause preignition damage. First, the center electrode dissolves and the ground electrode dissolves somewhat later (Fig. 32). Insulators appear relatively deposit free. Determine if the spark plugs are the correct type, as specified on the VECI label, or if other operating conditions are causing engine overheating.
Fig. 30 Scavenger Deposits
CHIPPED ELECTRODE INSULATOR
A chipped electrode insulator usually results from bending the center electrode while adjusting the spark plug electrode gap. Under certain conditions, severe detonation also can separate the insulator from the center electrode (Fig. 31). Spark plugs with chipped electrode insulators must be replaced.
Fig. 32 Preignition Damage
SPARK PLUG OVERHEATING
Overheating is indicated by a white or gray center electrode insulator that also appears blistered (Fig.
33). The increase in electrode gap will be considerably in excess of 0.001 in per 1000 miles of operation.
This suggests that a plug with a cooler heat range rating should be used. Over advanced ignition timing, detonation and cooling system malfunctions also can cause spark plug overheating.
Fig. 31 Chipped Electrode Insulator
Fig. 33 Spark PlugOverheating
POWERTRAIN CONTROL
LEFT STRUT TOWER
JA
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 17
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE
The PCM attaches to a bracket between the air cleaner housing and Power Distribution Center
(PDC).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from auxillary jumper terminal (Fig. 34).
Fig. 34 Auxillary Jumper Terminal
(2) Disconnect both 40-way connectors from PCM.
(3) Remove screws attaching PCM to bracket (Fig.
35).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install PCM. Tighten mounting screws.
(2) Attach both 40-way connectors to PCM.
(3) Connect negative cable to auxillary jumper terminal.
SPARK PLUG CABLES—2.0/2.4L
Clean high tension cables with a cloth moistened with a non- flammable solvent. Wipe the cables dry.
Check for brittle or cracked insulation.
Resistance cables are identified by the words Elec-
tronic Suppression .
REMOVAL
Disconnect the cable from the ignition coil first.
The cables insulate the spark plugs and cover the top of the spark plug tubes (Fig. 3). To remove the cables, lightly grasp the top of the cable. Rotate the insulator 90° and pull straight up. Ensure the #1 and #4 cables run under the #2 and #3 ignition coil towers. Keep #4 cable away from the oil fill cap.
INSTALLATION
Ensure the #1 and #4 cables run under the #2 and #3 ignition coil towers. Keep #4 cable away from the oil fill cap.
Rotate the insulator 90° and push straight down.
Connect the cable to the ignition coil.
SPARK PLUG—2.0/2.4L
Failure to route the cables properly could cause the radio to reproduce ignition noise, cross ignition of the spark plugs or short circuit the cables to ground.
NOTE: REMOVE cables from coil first before removing spark plug insulator.
Fig. 35 PCM Bracket Screws
(4) Lift PCM up to remove it from vehicle.
REMOVAL
Always remove the spark plug cable by grasping the top of the spark plug insulator, turning the boot
1/2 turn and pulling straight up in a steady motion.
(1) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
(2) Inspect the spark plug condition. Refer to
Spark Plug Condition in this section.
INSTALLATION
(1) To avoid cross threading, start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand.
(2) Tighten spark plugs to 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install spark plug insulators over spark plugs.
Ensure the top of the spark plug insulator covers the upper end of the spark plug tube.
(4) Install spark plug cable to coil.
MAP SENSOR INTAKE AIR SEN-
8D - 18 IGNITION SYSTEM
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
SPARK PLUGS AND CABLES—2.5L
When replacing the spark plug and coil cables, route the cables correctly and secure them in the appropriate retainers. Failure to route the cables properly can cause the radio to reproduce ignition noise, cross ignition of the spark plugs or short circuit the cables to ground.
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SPARK PLUG REMOVAL—#1, #3 or #5
(1) Disconnect negative cable from auxillary jumper terminal.
(2) Unplug connectors from MAP and intake air temperature sensors (Fig. 36).
CAUTION: Never attempt to file the electrodes or use a wire brush for cleaning platinum plugs. This would damage the platinum pads which would shorten spark plug life.
Apply a very small amount of anti-seize compound to the threads when reinstalling the vehicle’s original spark plugs that have been determined good. Do not apply anti-seize compound to new spark plugs.
NOTE: Anti-seize compound is electrically conductive and can cause engine misfires if not applied correctly. It is extremely important that the antiseize compound doesn’t make contact with the spark plug electrodes or ceramic insulator.
Fig. 36 Intake Manifold Sensors and LeftPlenum
Support Bolt
(3) Remove plenum support bracket bolt located rearward of MAP sensor (Fig. 36).
(4) Remove bolt holding air inlet resonator to intake plenum (Fig. 37).
SPARK PLUG REMOVAL—#2, #4 or #6
Always remove the ignition cable by grasping at the spark plug boot turning, the boot 1/2 turn and pulling straight back in a steady motion.
(1) Prior to removing the spark plug spray compressed air around the spark plug hole and the area around the spark plug.
(2) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
(3) Inspect the spark plug condition. Refer to
Spark Plug Condition in this section.
INSTALLATION
(1) To avoid cross threading, start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand.
(2) Tighten spark plugs to 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install ignition cables over spark plugs.
Fig. 37 Air Inlet Resonator
EGR EGR TUBE
RELEASE TANG
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(5) Loosen throttle body air inlet hose clamp.
(6) Release snaps holding air cleaner housing cover to housing.
(7) Remove air cleaner cover and inlet hoses from engine.
(8) Unplug TPS and idle air control motor connectors (Fig. 38) and (Fig. 39).
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 19
(9) Pry retainer tab back on throttle cable and slide cable out of bracket (Fig. 40). Remove cable from throttle lever.
Fig. 38 Throttle Position Sensor
Fig. 40 Throttle Cable Attachment
(10) Slide Speed control cable out of bracket, if equipped (Fig. 40). Remove cable from throttle lever.
(11) Remove EGR tube from intake plenum (Fig.
41).
Fig. 39 Idle Air Control Motor
Fig. 41 EGR Tube and Right Manifold SupportBolt
IGNITION COIL FAS-
TENERS
SPARK
8D - 20 IGNITION SYSTEM
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(12) Remove plenum support bracket bolt located rearward of EGR tube (Fig. 41).
(13) Remove bolts holding upper intake plenum and remove plenum.
(14) Always remove the ignition cable by grasping at the spark plug boot turning, the boot 1/2 turn and pulling straight back in a steady motion.
(15) Prior to removing the spark plug spray compressed air around the spark plug hole and the area around the spark plug.
(16) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
(17) Inspect the spark plug condition. Refer to
Spark Plug Condition in this section.
IGNITION COIL—2.0/2.4L
The electronic ignition coil pack attaches directly to the valve cover (Fig. 42) or (Fig. 43).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect electrical connector from coil pack.
(2) Remove coil pack mounting nuts.
(3) Remove coil pack.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install coil pack on valve cover.
(2) Transfer spark plug cables to new coil pack.
The coil pack towers are numbered with the cylinder identification. Be sure the ignition cables snap onto the towers.
SPARK PLUG INSTALLATION
(1) To avoid cross threading, start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand.
(2) Tighten spark plugs to 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Install ignition cables over spark plugs.
(4) Install new gasket and position upper intake plenum. Tighten plenum bolts to 18 N·m (13 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Install bolts at plenum support brackets.
Tighten bolts to 18 N·m (13 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install EGR tube to plenum. Tighten EGR tube to intake manifold plenum screws to 11 N·m (95 in.
lbs.).
(7) Install throttle and speed control (if equipped) cables.
(8) Attach electrical connectors to sensors.
(9) Tighten air inlet tube clamps to 3 N·m 6 1 (25
6 5 in. lbs.) torque.
(10) Connect negative terminal to auxiliary jumper terminal.
Fig. 42 Electronic Ignition Coil Pack—2.0L
SPARK PLUG TUBES
The spark plugs tubes are pressed into the cylinder head. Sealant is applied to the end of the tube before installation. For engine information, refer to Group
9, Engines.
Fig. 43 Electronic Ignition Coil Pack—2.4L
DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING COIL TOWER TARGET MAGNETMOUNTING BOLT
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
IGNITION COIL—2.5L
The ignition coil is located in the distributor housing (Fig. 44).
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 21
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—SOHC
The camshaft position sensor is mounted to the rear of the cylinder head (Fig. 46).
Fig. 44 Ignition Coil
If ignition coil is defective, replace distributor assembly. Refer to Distributor Service.
AUTOMATIC SHUTDOWN RELAY
The relay is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) (Fig. 45). The PDC is located in the engine compartment. For the location of the relay within the
PDC, refer to the PDC cover for location. Check electrical terminals for corrosion and repair as necessary.
Fig. 46 Camshaft Position Sensor Location—SOHC
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the filtered air tube from the throttle body and air cleaner housing. Remove filtered air tube.
(2) Remove the air cleaner inlet tube.
(3) Disconnect electrical connectors from engine coolant sensor and camshaft position sensor.
(4) Remove brake booster hose and electrical connector from holders on end of cylinder head cover.
(5) Remove camshaft position sensor mounting screws. Remove sensor.
(6) Loosen screw attaching target magnet to rear of camshaft (Fig. 47).
Fig. 45 Power Distribution Center (PDC)
Fig. 47 Target Magnet Removal/Installation
MOUNTINGBOLT
LOCATING
HOLES (2)
8D - 22 IGNITION SYSTEM
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
INSTALLATION
The target magnet has two locating dowels that fit into machined locating holes in end of the camshaft.
(1) Install target magnet in end of camshaft.
Tighten mounting screw to 3.4 N·m (30 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install camshaft position sensor. Tighten sensor mounting screws to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.) torque.
(3) Place brake booster hose and electrical harness in holders on end of valve cover.
(4) Attach electrical connectors to coolant temperature sensor and camshaft position sensor.
(5) Install air cleaner inlet tube and filtered air tube.
(4) Loosen screw attaching target magnet to rear of camshaft (Fig. 49).
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—DOHC
The camshaft position sensor is mounted to the rear of the cylinder head (Fig. 48).
Fig. 49 Target Magnet Removal/Installation
INSTALLATION
The target magnet has locating dowels that fit into machined locating holes in the end of the camshaft
(Fig. 50).
Fig. 48 Camshaft Position Sensor Location—DOHC
REMOVAL
(1) Remove filtered air tube from the throttle body and air cleaner housing.
(2) Disconnect electrical connector from camshaft position sensor.
(3) Remove camshaft position sensor mounting screws. Remove sensor.
Fig. 50 Target Magnet Installation
(1) Install target magnet in end of camshaft.
Tighten mounting screw to 3 N·m (30 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install camshaft position sensor. Tighten sensor mounting screws to 9 N·m (80 in. lbs.) torque.
(3) Carefully attach electrical connector to camshaft position sensor. Installation at an angle may damage the sensor pins.
(4) Install filtered air tube. Tighten clamps to 3
N·m 6 1 (25 in. lbs.
6 5) torque.
CRANKSHAFT
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.0/2.4 L
The crankshaft position sensor mounts to the engine block behind the generator, just above the oil filter (Fig. 51).
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect electrical connector from crankshaft position sensor.
(2) Remove sensor mounting screw. Remove sensor.
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 23
(4) (Disconnect crankshaft position sensor electrical connector from the wiring harness connector.
INSTALLATION—ADJUSTABLE
All vehicles will be equipped with an adjustable crankshaft position sensor. This can be identified by an elongated mounting hole in the sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Reverse procedure for installation.
NOTE: If the removed sensor is to be reinstalled, clean off the old spacer on the sensor face. A NEW
SPACER must be attached to the sensor face before installation. If the sensor is being replaced, confirm that the paper spacer is attached to the face of the new sensor (Fig. 53).
Fig. 51 Crankshaft Position Sensor—2.0/2.4L
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR—2.5L
REMOVAL
(1) Remove speed control servo from driver’s side strut tower.
(2) Remove crankshaft position sensor retaining bolt (Fig. 52).
Fig. 52 Crankshaft Position Sensor
(3) Pull crankshaft position sensor straight up out of the transaxle housing.
Fig. 53 Crankshaft Position Sensor and Spacer
(1) Install sensor in transaxle and push sensor down until contact is made with the drive plate.
While holding the sensor in this position, install and tighten the retaining bolt to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Connect crankshaft position sensor electrical connector to the wiring harness connector.
(3) Attach connector to heater tube bracket.
(4) Install speed control servo. Tighten nuts to 9
N·m (80 in. lbs.) torque.
DISTRIBUTOR—2.5L
REMOVAL
(1) Remove bolt holding air inlet resonator to intake manifold.
(2) Loosen clamps holding air cleaner cover to air cleaner housing.
(3) Remove PCV make-up air hose from air inlet tube.
(4) Loosen hose clamp at throttle body.
(5) Remove air inlet tube, resonator and air cleaner cover.
(6) Remove EGR tube.
(7) Remove spark plug cables from distributor cap.
DISTRIBUTOR
8D - 24 IGNITION SYSTEM
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(8) Loosen distributor cap holddown screws and remove cap (Fig. 54).
(11) Remove 2 sets of distributor holddown nuts and washers from studs.
(12) Remove bolt and spark plug cable mounting bracket from top of distributor housing.
(13) Remove bolt and transmission dipstick tube.
(14) Carefully remove distributor from engine.
Fig. 54 Distributor Cap Screws
(9) Mark the rotor position and remove rotor. The mark indicates where to position the rotor when reinstalling the distributor.
(10) Remove 2 harness connectors from distributor
(Fig. 55).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install rotor on shaft.
(2) Position distributor in engine. Make certain that O-ring is properly seated on distributor. If
O-ring is cracked or nicked replace with a new one.
(3) Carefully engage distributor drive with slotted end of camshaft. When the distributor is installed properly, the rotor will be in line with previously scribe line on air intake plenum. If engine was cranked while distributor was removed, establish proper relationship between the distributor shaft and Number 1 piston position as follows:
(a) Rotate the crankshaft until number one piston is at top of compression stroke.
(b) Rotate rotor to number one rotor terminal.
(c) Lower distributor into opening, engaging distributor drive with drive on camshaft. With distributor fully seated on engine, rotor should be under the number 1 terminal.
(4) Install distributor holddown washers and nuts.
Tighten nuts to 13 N·m (9 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install spark plug cable bracket.
(6) Install 2 harness connectors to distributor.
(7) Install distributor cap.
(8) Install spark plug cables onto distributor cap.
The cap is numbered as well as the cables. Ensure sure all high tension wires are firmly in the cap towers.
(9) Install transmission dispstick tube.
(10) Install EGR tube to intake manifold. Tighten bolts to 11 N·m (95 in. lbs.) torque.
DISTRIBUTOR CAP—2.5L
Fig. 55 Distributor Electrical Connectors—
ViewedFrom Rear of Distributor
REMOVAL
(1) Remove bolt holding air inlet resonator to intake manifold.
(2) Loosen clamps holding air cleaner cover to air cleaner housing.
(3) Remove PCV make-up air hose from air inlet tube.
(4) Loosen hose clamp at throttle body.
(5) Remove air inlet tube, resonator and air cleaner cover.
(6) Remove EGR tube.
(7) Remove spark plug cables from distributor cap.
(8) Loosen distributor cap holddown screws and remove cap (Fig. 54).
ENGINE SENSOR
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(9) Transfer cables from old cap to new cap. The cap is numbered and so are the cables.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install distributor cap.
(2) Install distributor holddown washers and nuts.
Tighten nuts to 13 N·m (9 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install EGR tube.
(4) Install air inlet tube, resonator and air cleaner cover.
(5) Tighten hose clamp at throttle body.
(6) Install PCV make-up air hose from air inlet tube.
(7) Tighten clamps holding air cleaner cover to air cleaner housing.
(8) Install bolt holding air inlet resonator to intake manifold.
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 25
COMBINATION ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE
SENSOR—SOHC
The combination engine coolant sensor is located at the rear of the cylinder head next to the camshaft position sensor (Fig. 56). New sensors have sealant applied to the threads.
DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR—2.5L
REMOVAL
(1) Remove bolt holding air inlet resonator to intake manifold.
(2) Loosen clamps holding air cleaner cover to air cleaner housing.
(3) Remove PCV make-up air hose from air inlet tube.
(4) Loosen hose clamp at throttle body.
(5) Remove air inlet tube, resonator and air cleaner cover.
(6) Remove EGR tube.
(7) Remove spark plug cables from distributor cap.
(8) Loosen distributor cap holddown screws and remove cap (Fig. 54).
(9) Mark the rotor position and remove rotor. The mark indicates where to position the rotor when reinstalling the distributor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install rotor on shaft.
(2) Install distributor cap.
(3) Install spark plug cables onto distributor cap.
The cap is numbered as well as the cables. Ensure sure all high tension wires are firmly in the cap towers.
(4) Install EGR tube to intake manifold. Tighten bolts to 11 N·m (95 in. lbs.) torque.
(5) Install air inlet tube, resonator and air cleaner cover.
(6) Tighten hose clamp at throttle body.
(7) Install PCV make-up air hose to air inlet tube.
(8) Tighten clamps holding air cleaner cover to air cleaner housing.
(9) Tighten bolt holding air inlet resonator to intake manifold.
Fig. 56 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
REMOVAL
(1) With the engine cold, drain the cooling system until coolant level drops below sensor. Refer to Group
7, Cooling System.
(2) Disconnect coolant sensor electrical connector.
(3) Remove coolant sensor
INSTALLATION
(1) Install coolant sensor. Tighten sensor to 18.6
N·m (165 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Attach electrical connector to sensor.
(3) Fill cooling system. Refer to Group 7, Cooling
System.
ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR—2.5L
The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is located next to the thermostat housing (Fig. 57).
REMOVAL
(1) With the engine cold, drain the cooling system until coolant level drops below sensor. Refer to Group
7, Cooling System.
(2) Disconnect ECT sensor electrical connector.
(3) Remove ECT sensor.
AIR
THROTTLE BODY
INLET
TUBE
COOLANT FILL
NECK
8D - 26 IGNITION SYSTEM
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
INSTALLATION
2.5L
(1) Install ECT sensor. Tighten sensor to 7 N·m
(60 in. lbs.) torque.
(2) Attach electrical connector to sensor.
(3) Fill cooling system. Refer to Group 7, Cooling
System.
MAP SENINTAKE AIR TEM-
JA
Fig. 57 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor—
2.5LEngine
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The intake air temperature sensor threads into the intake manifold plenum (Fig. 58) or (Fig. 59).
REMOVAL
(1) Remove electrical connector from sensor.
(2) Remove sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install sensor. Tighten sensor to 28 N·m (20 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(2) Attach electrical connector to sensor.
Fig. 59 Intake Air TemperatureSensor and MAP
Sensor—2.5L
MAP/IAT SENSOR—SOHC
Refer to Group 14, Fuel Injection Section for
Removal/Installation.
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSOR—2.4L
The MAP sensor attaches to the intake manifold plenum (Fig. 58)
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the electrical connector from the
MAP sensor.
(2) Remove sensor mounting screws.
(3) Remove sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert sensor into intake manifold while making sure not to damage O-ring seal.
(2) Tighten mounting screws to 2 N·m (20 in. lbs) torque.
(3) Attach electrical connector to sensor.
MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP)
SENSOR—2.5L
REMOVAL
(1) Remove mounting screws from sensor (Fig. 59).
(2) Unplug harness connector and remove sensor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Reverse the above procedure for installation.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR
Refer to Group 14, Fuel Injection Section, for
Removal/Installation.
Fig. 58 Intake Air Temperature Sensor andMAP
Sensor—2.4L
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
IGNITION SWITCH
The ignition switch attaches to the lock cylinder housing on the end opposite the lock cylinder (Fig.
60). For ignition switch terminal and circuit identification, refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
LOWER SCREW LOCATIONS
COVER
LOCATIONS UNDER TOP
COVER
IGNITION SYSTEM
(3) Pull center bezel off (Fig. 62).
8D - 27
Fig. 60 Ignition Switch—Viewed FromBelow Column
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from auxillary jumper terminal on driver’s side strut tower.
(2) Remove fuse panel cover from left end of instrument panel. Remove screw holding end of instrument panel top cover (Fig. 61).
Fig. 62 Center Bezel
(4) Remove screws holding instrument panel top cover to center of instrument panel (Fig. 63).
Fig. 61 Instrument Panel Top Cover—LeftEnd
Fig. 63 Instrument Panel Top Cover—Center
(5) Pull instrument panel top cover up enough to gain access to knee bolster screws (Fig. 64).
Fig. 64 Knee Bolster Attaching Points
TILT LEVER
8D - 28 IGNITION SYSTEM
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(6) Remove lower knee bolster screws and knee bolster.
(7) Remove screws from lower steering column shroud (Fig. 65).
(9) Hold tilt wheel lever down and slide lower shroud forward to remove it from column (Fig. 67).
Fig. 65 Lower Steering Column Shroud
ScrewLocations
(8) Pull lower shroud to clear ignition cylinder and key release, if equipped (Fig. 66).
Fig. 67 Lower Shroud Removal
(10) Tilt wheel to full down position and remove upper steering column shroud.
(11) Remove screws holding multi-function switch to lock housing (Fig. 68).
Fig. 66 Remove Lower Shroud From
IgnitionCylinder
Fig. 68 Multi-Function Switch Removal/Installation
LOCK SWITCH
IGNITION SWITCH
SCREW
IGNITION SWITCH
LOCK HOUSING
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(12) Place key cylinder in RUN position. Depress lock cylinder retaining tab and remove key cylinder
(Fig. 69).
IGNITION SWITCH
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 29
Fig. 69 Lock Cylinder Removal
(13) Disconnect electrical connectors from ignition switch (Fig. 70) and (Fig. 71).
Fig. 71 Ignition Switch Connectors
(14) Remove ignition switch mounting screw (Fig.
70) with a #10 Torx t tamper proof bit.
(15) Depress retaining tabs (Fig. 60) and pull ignition switch from steering column.
INSTALLATION
(1) Ensure the ignition switch is in the RUN position and the actuator shaft in the lock housing is in the RUN position.
(2) Carefully install the ignition switch.
The switch will snap over the retaining tabs (Fig. 72).
Install mounting screw (Fig. 70).
(3) Install electrical connectors to ignition switch.
(4) Install upper and lower shrouds.
(5) Install key cylinder (cylinder retaining tab will depress only in the RUN position).
Fig. 70 Ignition Switch
SOCKET LOCK CYLINDER HOUSING
8D - 30 IGNITION SYSTEM
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(6) Connect negative cable to battery.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install key in lock cylinder. Turn key to run position (retaining tab on lock cylinder can be depressed).
(2) The shaft at the end of the lock cylinder aligns with the socket in the end of the housing. To align the socket with the lock cylinder, ensure the socket is in the Run position (Fig. 74).
Fig. 72 Ignition Switch Installation
(7) Check for proper operation of ignition switch and key-in warning switch.
LOCK KEY CYLINDER
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from auxillary jumper terminal.
(2) Remove upper steering column shroud.
(3) Pull lower shroud down far enough to access lock cylinder retaining tab.
(4) Place key cylinder in RUN position. Depress retaining tab and remove key cylinder (Fig. 73).
Fig. 74 Socket in Lock CylinderHousing
(3) Align the lock cylinder with the grooves in the housing. Slide the lock cylinder into the housing until the tab sticks through the opening in the housing.
(4) Turn the key to the Off position. Remove the key.
(5) Install steering column shrouds.
(6) Connect negative cable to auxillary battery terminal on shock tower.
IGNITION INTERLOCK
Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for Shifter/Ignition
Interlock Service.
LOCK CYLINDER HOUSING
Refer to Steering Column in Group 19, Steering, for Lock Cylinder Housing Service.
Fig. 73 Lock Cylinder Retaining Tab
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IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 31
SPECIFICATIONS
VECI LABEL
If anything differs between the specifications found on the Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) label and the following specifications, use specifications on VECI label. The VECI label is located in the engine compartment.
FIRING ORDER
TORQUE SPECIFICATION
DESCRIPTION TORQUE
Air Inlet tube Clamp . . . . . . . . . . 3 N·m (25 in. lbs.)
Camshaft Position
Sensor Screw . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
SOHC Cam Magnet/Target . . . . 4.5 N·m (40 in. lbs.)
Coolant Sensor—2.0L . . . . . . . . . 7 N·m (60 in. lbs.)
Coolant Sensor—2.4L . . . . . . . . . 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.)
Coolant Sensor—2.5L . . . . . . . . . 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.)
Crankshaft Position
Sensor Screw . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
Coolant Temp. Sensor . . . . . . 18.6 N·m (165 in. lbs.)
Distributor Holddown
Nut—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 N·m (9 ft. lbs.)
EGR Tube to Intake . . . . . . . . . . 11 N·m (95 in. lbs.)
Ignition Coil to Cyl.
Head—2.0/2.4L . . . . . . . . . . 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.)
IAT Sensor—2.0L . . . . . . . . . . . 6.8 N·m (60 in. lbs.)
IAT Sensor—2.4/2.5L . . . . . . . 11.5 N·m (100 in. lbs.) nock Sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 N·m (90 in. lbs.)
MAP/IAT Sensor Plastic
Manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 N·m (20 in. lbs.)
MAP/IAT Sensor Aluminum
Manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 N·m (30 in. lbs.)
MAP Sensor—2.5L . . . . . . . . . . 3.4 N·m (30 in. lbs.)
Spark Plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.)
FIRING ORDER—2.0/2.4L
FIRING ORDER—2.5L
8D - 32 IGNITION SYSTEM
SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE—2.0L
CABLE
#1,#4
#2,#3
RESISTANCE
3500 ohms—
4900 ohms
2950 ohms—
4100 ohms
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE—2.4L
CABLE
#1,#4
#2,#3
RESISTANCE
3500 ohms—
4900 ohms
2950 ohms—
4100 ohms
SPARK PLUG CABLE RESISTANCE—2.5L
MINIMUM
250 Ohms Per Inch
3000 Ohms Per Foot
MAXIMUM
560 Ohms Per
Inch
6700 Ohms Per
Foot
SPARK PLUGS
Engine Spark Plug
2.0L
2.4L
2.5L
RC9YC
RC12YC5
RC10PYP4
Gap
0.033 to 0.033 in.
0.048 to 0.053 in.
0.038 to 0.043 in.
Thread Size
14 mm (3/4 in.) reach
14mm (3/4 in.) reach
14 mm (3/4 in.) reach
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DIAMOND (BRASS TOWERS)
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SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)
IGNITION COILS
2.0/2.4L
2.5L
Engines
IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 33
Coil Manufacture
Toyodenso/Diamond
Melco
Primary Resistance at 21°C-27°C (70°F-
80°F)
0.51 TO 0.61 Ohms
0.6 TO 0.8 Ohms
Secondary Resistance at 21°C-27°C
(70°F-80°F)
11,500 to 13,500 Ohms
12,500 to 18,000 Ohms
Coil Polarity Coil Polarity
8D - 34 IGNITION SYSTEM
SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)
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IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 1
IGNITION SYSTEM
CONTENTS page
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
SPARK PLUGS — 2.5L With Leaded
Fuel Option . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
page
SPECIFICATIONS
SPARK PLUGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
SPARK PLUGS — 2.5L With Leaded Fuel Option
The 2.5L engines that are calibrated to run on leaded fuel do not use the platinum spark plugs.
Refer to the maintenance schedule in Group 0 of this service manual.
All engines use resistor spark plugs. They have resistance values ranging from 6,000 to 20,000 ohms when checked with at least a 1000 volt spark plug tester.
The spark plugs are double copper tipped, and have a recommended service life of 30,000 miles for normal driving conditions per schedule A in this manual.
SPECIFICATIONS
SPARK PLUGS
Engine
2.0L
2.5L
2.5L
W/Leaded
Fuel PKG.
Spark
Plug
Gap
RC9YC 0.033 to
0.038 in.
RC10PYP4 0.038 to
0.043 in.
RC8YCC 0.038 to
0.043 in.
Thread Size
14mm(3/4 in.) reach
14mm(3/4in.) reach
14mm(3/4in.) reach
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IGNITION SYSTEM 8D - 1
IGNITION SYSTEM
CONTENTS page
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
SPARK PLUGS — 2.5L With Leaded
Fuel Option . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
page
SPECIFICATIONS
SPARK PLUGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
SPARK PLUGS — 2.5L With Leaded Fuel Option
The 2.5L engines that are calibrated to run on leaded fuel do not use the platinum spark plugs.
Refer to the maintenance schedule in Group 0 of this service manual.
All engines use resistor spark plugs. They have resistance values ranging from 6,000 to 20,000 ohms when checked with at least a 1000 volt spark plug tester.
The spark plugs are double copper tipped, and have a recommended service life of 30,000 miles for normal driving conditions per schedule A in this manual.
SPECIFICATIONS
SPARK PLUGS
Engine
2.0L
2.5L
2.5L
W/Leaded
Fuel PKG.
Spark
Plug
Gap
RC9YC 0.033 to
0.038 in.
RC10PYP4 0.038 to
0.043 in.
RC8YCC 0.038 to
0.043 in.
Thread Size
14mm(3/4 in.) reach
14mm(3/4in.) reach
14mm(3/4in.) reach
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INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SYSTEMS 8E - 1
INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SYSTEMS
GENERAL INFORMATION
CLUSTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
AUTOSTICK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
COMPUTER SELF-DIAGNOSTIC TEST . . . . . . 4
DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
SERVICE PROCEDURES
. . . . . . 5
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
CLUSTER HOOD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
CLUSTER PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD . . . . . . . . 6
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
FUEL GAUGE AND TEMPERATURE GAUGE . . . 8
CONTENTS page page
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
GLOVE BOX DOOR LOCK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
HVAC CONTROL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
INSTRUMENT PANEL END COVERS – LEFT
AND RIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
. . . . . . . . . . 11
. . . . . . . . . 11
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
CONTROL MODULE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
LEFT UNDER INSTRUMENT PANEL SILENCER/
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
MASK/LENS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
INDICATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
POWER OUTLET . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
RADIO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
INDICATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
VEHICLE THEFT SECURITY SYSTEM LED
. . . 13
GENERAL INFORMATION
ELECTRO/MECHANICAL INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
The mechanical instrument cluster is an electromechanical module which receives most of its information from the Body Control Module (BCM) via the
CCD bus.
The cluster (Fig. 1) includes:
Fig. 1 Cluster
• 200 km/h (120 MPH) speedometer
• Tachometer
• Odometer/trip odometer and transmission range indicator with automatic transmission
• Fuel gauge
• Temperature gauge
• Security alarm indicator (optional)
The warning and information indicators include the following:
• Service Engine Soon (Check Engine)
• Airbag
• Charging system
• Low oil pressure
• High temperature
• Low fuel
• Seat belt
•
Cruise
•
Brake/park brake
•
Anti-lock brake system
•
High beam
•
Fog lamps
• Vehicle Theft Security System alarm LED indicator (optional)
• Turn signals
8E - 2 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SYSTEMS
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
The gauges are the magnetic air-core type. When the ignition switch is OFF, the gauge pointers should rest at or below the low graduation.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
AUTOSTICK
Vehicles with Autostick will have a unique Transmission Range Indicator display (Fig. 2). When in the
Autostick mode, the Transmission Range Indicator will display 1, 2, 3 or 4 to inform the driver which transmission gear is currently engaged.
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Fig. 3 Compass/Temperature Mini Trip Computer
Fig. 2 Autostick Odometer/Transmission Range
Indicator
COMPASS/TEMPERATURE MINI-TRIP COMPUTER
The Compass/Temperature Mini-Trip Computer
(CMTC) system is located on the right hand side of the instrument panel cluster (Fig. 3). The CMTC is an electronic control module with a vacuum fluorescent display and two function buttons. The CMTC is capable of displaying compass, temperature, and trip computer information (Fig. 4). Actuation of the STEP button will cause the CMTC to change mode of operation and actuation of the US/M button will toggle between English and Metric unit of measurement. A reset of the trip computer information is accomplished by actuating the Step and US/M buttons simultaneously.
The CMTC is active only when the ignition switch is in the ON position. When the ignition switch is turned ON, the CMTC will turn on all of the segments in the display for one second then return to the last function screen that was displayed prior to the ignition being turned OFF. The functions that are available via activation of the STEP switch are as follow:
•
Compass and Ambient Temperature
•
Average Trip Fuel Economy (AVG ECO)
•
Estimated Range (RANGE)
•
Present Fuel Economy (ECO)
• Trip Odometer (ODO)
• Elapsed Ignition On Time (ET)
• Blank Screen (OFF)
Fig. 4 CTMC Module
COMPASS
The CMTC is an auto-calibrating compass and requires no activation of any switches to trigger a forced calibration. The compass is initially setup to be calibrated for earth fields of approximately 180 milligauss. However, due to the variation in the magnetic earth field across the country and the variation of the magnetic structure from vehicle to vehicle the compass may need to be calibrated. Refer to Compass
Calibration Service Procedures.
AMBIENT TEMPERATURE
The temperature is displayed in whole degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit. Temperatures greater than or equal to zero are displayed unsigned and temperatures below zero are displayed signed (-). If the temperature is more than 55°C (131°F) or the temperature sending line is shorted to ground, the compass and ambient temperature screen will dis-
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued) play SC. If the temperature is less than -40°C (-40°F) or the temperature sending line is an open circuit, the compass and ambient temperature screen will
OC. If the message CCD bus to display the ambient temperature. Refer to the proper Body Diagnostic
Procedures manual.
MINI TRIP COMPUTER MESSAGES
The Mini Trip Computer data is obtained from information put on the CCD bus from thee Powertrain Control Module and the Body Control Module.
The CMTC will not display information for any of the screens for which it did not receive the proper data over the CCD bus for that particular screen. In which case the message CCd will be displayed. If the
CCd message is displayed on all the screens of the
CCD bus with a scan tool (DRB). If some of the screens appear to be functioning properly but some of the screens display CCd then check either the Powertrain Control Module or the Body Control Module for proper CCD bus communications. If the CCd message still persist refer to the Mini Trip Computer Self
Diagnostic Test.
INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SYSTEMS 8E - 3
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER SELF- DIAGNOSTICS
Initiate instrument cluster self-diagnostic by depressing the odometer/trip reset button while turning the ignition key to the OFF/RUN/START position. This will cycle an electronic display segment check and illumination in sequence of all CCD bus activated cluster warning indicators. There are four
Check (CHEC) functions:
(1) CHEC 1, checks the gauges.
(2) CHEC 2, checks the warning lamps.
(3) CHEC 3, checks the odometer/trip meter.
(4) CHEC 4, Transmission Range Indicator for the automatic transmission or the autostick transmission.
If the diagnostic procedure determines that a replacement of an instrument cluster component is required, refer to the proper component removal procedure.
DATA LINK CONNECTOR
Data link connector is located on the left side kick panel just above hood release.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE
In order to diagnose the instrument cluster function, a DRB scan tool and the proper Body Diagnostic
Procedures Manual are required.
As a quick diagnosis, the cluster will perform a function check immediately after the ignition is switched to the RUN/START position. The electronic display, odometer and transmission range indicator and all warning lamps except:
•
Cruise
•
Fog lamps
•
High beam
•
Low fuel
• Turn signal will illuminate for a brief period.
If the cluster is not receiving CCD bus messages, the cluster will appear nonfunctional except for the continuously illuminated airbag indicator and NO
BUS message displayed.
If the cluster is not receiving CCD bus messages, refer to the pre-diagnostic test described in proper
Body Diagnostic Procedures Manual or refer to the
Instrument Cluster Self-Diagnostic Test below.
CHEC 1 - GAUGE DISPLAY
TACHOMETER …6000 rpm
SPEEDOMETER …100mph (220 kmh)
FUEL GAUGE pointer ON …F
TEMPERATURE GAUGE pointer ON …H
TACHOMETER …3000 rpm
SPEEDOMETER …75mph (120 kmh)
FUEL GAUGE pointer ON …1/2
TEMPERATURE GAUGE pointer ON …midscale
TACHOMETER …3000 rpm
SPEEDOMETER …55mph (100 kmh)
FUEL GAUGE pointer ON …1/2
TEMPERATURE GAUGE pointer ON …midscale
TACHOMETER …1000 rpm
SPEEDOMETER …20mph (40 kmh)
FUEL GAUGE pointer ON …E
TEMPERATURE GAUGE pointer ON …C
CHEC 1
(1) If all gauges fail to move, replace Cluster
Printed Circuit (PC) Board.
(2) If any gauge fails to move, replace the gauge assembly.
(3) If any gauge(s) is not in the proper position, replace Cluster Printed Circuit Board.
CHEC 2
(1) If any lamp does not light, check lamp.
(2) If lamp is not OK, replace lamp.
(3) If lamp is OK, replace Cluster Printed Circuit
Board.
CHEC 3
If any V/F segment does not light, replace Odometer/Transmission Range Indication.
8E - 4 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SYSTEMS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
CHEC 2 - WARNING LAMP DISPLAY
SERVICE ENGINE SOON
SEAT BELT
AIRBAG
CHARGING SYSTEM
LOW FUEL
HIGH BEAM INDICATOR
ENGINE TEMPERATURE
CRUISE
CHEC 3 - VACUUM FLORSECENT (VF) DISPLAY
TRIP
ODOMETER CENTER
ODOMETER LOWER RIGHT
ODOMETER BOTTOM
ODOMETER LOWER LEFT
ODOMETER UPPER LEFT
ODOMETER TOP
ODOMETER UPPER RIGHT
ALL ODOMETER V/F DISPLAY DIGIT SEGMENTS
ON
CHEC 4 - TRANSMISSION RANGE RANGE V/F
DISPLAY
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
PRND3L
PRND3L AND BOX AROUND P
PRND3L AND BOX AROUND R
PRND3L AND BOX AROUND N
PRND3L AND BOX AROUND D
PRND3L AND BOX AROUND 3
PRND3L AND BOX AROUND L
PRND3L AND ALL BOXES
END
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CHEC 4 - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
If any V/F segment does not light, replace Odometer/Transmission Range Indication.
CHEC 4 - TRANSMISSION RANGE INDICATOR
V/F DISPLAY
AUTOSTICK
PRND A/S 1 AND A/S BOX
PRND A/S 2 AND A/S BOX
PRND A/S 3 AND A/S BOX
PRND A/S 4 AND A/S BOX
PRND A/S AND BOX AROUND P
PRND A/S AND BOX AROUND R
PRND A/S AND BOX AROUND N
PRND A/S AND BOX AROUND D
PRND A/S 1234 AND ALL BOXES
END
CHEC 4 - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
If any V/F segment does not light, replace Odometer/Transmission Range Indication.
COMPASS/TEMPERATURE MINI TRIP COMPUTER
SELF-DIAGNOSTIC TEST
The CMTC is capable of performing a diagnostic self check on many of its internal functions. CMTC diagnostics may be performed using a scan tool
(DRB) and the proper Body Diagnostic Procedures manual or by the following procedure.
(1) With the ignition switch in the OFF position, press both the US/M and STEP button.
(2) Turn ignition switch to the ON position.
The CMTC will perform internal checks while lighting all segments of the vacuum florescent display. Upon completion of the internal check, the
CMTC will display.
• PASS
• FAIL
• CCd
If any segment of the CMTC fails to light replace the module.
If FAIL is displayed, replace the module.
If CCd is displayed, check the CCD and Body Control Module (BCM) for proper operation, refer to the appropriate diagnostic test procedures manual If the
CCD and the BCM are OK, replace the CMTC module.
For additional diagnostic information on the CMTC and for identifying CMTC problems, refer to the proper Body Diagnostic Procedures manual.
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INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SYSTEMS 8E - 5
SERVICE PROCEDURES
COMPASS CALIBRATION PROCEDURE
VARIANCE SETTING PROCEDURE
Variance is the difference between magnetic North and geographic North (Fig. 5). To adjust the compass variance set the CMTC to Compass/Temperature mode and press both US/M and STEP buttons for up to one second than the symbol VAR and the current variance zone number will be displayed. Press the
STEP button to select the proper variance zone as shown in (Fig. 5). After five seconds of inactivity, the displayed zone will be automatically set and normal operation in the Compass/Temperature mode resumed.
Calibrate the compass by driving the vehicle in a circle with a constant speed between 5 and 11 MPH
(8 and 18 Km/h), the diameter should be between 6 and 27.5 meters (30 and 90 feet). The speed of the vehicle should not vary no more than 3 MPH (5
Km/h) otherwise the calibration is aborted.
To ensure that the compass has been properly calibrated, point the vehicle in each of the following four directions: (N), (S), (E), and (W).
Fig. 5 Variance Settings
ATTACHINGSCREWS
8E - 6 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SYSTEMS
SERVICE PROCEDURES (Continued)
DIRECT METHOD
Turn the vehicle to head in either a North or South direction. The vehicle must be within 45 degrees of the North or South position or the SETTING the
VARIANCE will be ignored. The vehicle may be stationary or driving at any speed for this operation.
Depress the STEP button until the Compass/Temperature screen is displayed. Simultaneously press both the US/M and STEP buttons up to one second, than the symbol VAR and the current variance zone number will be displayed. Within the next five seconds momentarily press the US/M button. The variance will be set and normal operation in the Compass/
Temperature mode resumed. If the US/M button is not pressed within the five seconds interval, the compass variance shall not be changed and normal operation in the Compass/Temperature mode resumed. If the VAR symbol flashes twice before resuming operation, the new zone was not accepted. Realign the vehicle to within 6 45 degrees of North or South and try again.
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(2) Tilt steering column down to its lowest position.
(3) Remove instrument panel center bezel by disengaging the four clips (Fig. 6).
(4) Remove instrument cluster hood (Fig. 7).
(a) Remove three attaching screws under the center bezel.
(b) Remove screw at left end of panel.
(c) Pull hood straight back to disengage the eight clips. If equipped with a Compass/Temperature Mini Trip Computer pull rearward about 3 inches and stop. Reach through the radio opening in the cluster hood and disconnect the CMTC wire connector.
(d) Remove the cluster hood.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Keep the forward edge of the hood down on the instrument panel while sliding the hood forward to engage the retaining clips.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
CENTER BEZEL
REMOVAL
Pull center bezel straight rearward along the sides of the radio and A/C control openings to disengage four clips (Fig. 6).
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
CLUSTER HOOD
Fig. 6 Center Bezel
REMOVAL
(1) Remove instrument panel left end cap.
Fig. 7 Instrument Cluster Hood
CLUSTER LAMP
Refer to (Fig. 8) for appropriate lamp locations.
Replace fog lamp indicator lamp and security LED socket assembly only if equipped.
CLUSTER PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD
REMOVAL
(1) Remove six cluster back cover retaining screws and remove the cover.
(2) Disconnect odometer/transmission range indicator connector from the printed circuit board.
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
REMOVE SCREWS
INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SYSTEMS 8E - 7
Fig. 8 Lamp Location
(3) Remove nine printed circuit board attaching screws and remove. There are two screws located at the base of each connector (Fig. 9).
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Fig. 9 Printed Circuit Board
COMPASS/TEMPERATURE MINI-TRIP COMPUTER
MODULE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
(2) Remove the Cluster Hood. Refer to Cluster
Hood removal procedure.
(3) With the cluster hood removed remove the four screws attaching the mini computer (Fig. 10).
Fig. 10 CMTC Module
(4) Remove CMTC from console.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
CUBBY BIN/LAMP
REMOVAL
(1) Remove center bezel.
(2) Remove instrument cluster hood screws.
(a) Remove two screws adjacent radio.
(b) Remove screw below HVAC control in the center.
(c) Remove screw at left end of panel.
(d) Flex instrument cluster hood slightly to give access to the cubby bin screws.
CLUSTER SCREWS CLUSTER SCREWS
8E - 8 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SYSTEMS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(3) Remove the cubby bin mounting screws and remove bin.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures. The cubby bin must engage the console at its forward edge prior to installing the mounting screws.
FUEL GAUGE AND TEMPERATURE GAUGE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove mask/lens retaining screws and remove mask/lens (Fig. 11).
(2) Disconnect odometer/transmission range indicator connector from the printed circuit board (Fig.
12).
(3) Remove screws attaching speedometer/tachometer to housing and remove (Fig. 13).
(4) Remove the fuel/temperature gauge attaching screws from the housing and remove (Fig. 14).
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
CLUSTER BACK CON-
Fig. 12 Back Cover Retaining Screws
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Fig. 13 Speedometer/Tachometer
Fig. 11 Mask/Lens Retaining Screws
Fig. 14 Fuel Gauge and Temperature Gauge
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
GLOVE BOX DOOR HANDLE
INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SYSTEMS
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
8E - 9
REMOVAL
(1) Open glove door.
(2) Remove four door handle attaching screws.
(3) Remove handle.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
GLOVE BOX DOOR LOCK
REMOVAL
To service any instrument cluster component, the instrument cluster must be removed from the instrument panel.
(1) Remove instrument cluster hood, refer to Cluster Hood Removal and Installation procedures.
(2) Remove the four cluster attaching screws (Fig.
11).
(3) Remove instrument cluster and disconnect wire connectors from instrument panel by pulling cluster rearward.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove glove box door handle.
(2) Insert the proper key in lock cylinder, depress the gray locking key on back side housing at the 3
O’clock position.
(3) Rotate the key clockwise to disengage cylinder from housing.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
HVAC CONTROL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove center bezel by pulling rearward to disengage four clips and remove attaching screws from cubby bin (Fig. 6).
(2) Remove the HVAC control attaching screws.
Pull the control out to disconnect two electrical connectors and two control cables. Remove HVAC control.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures. The forward edge of bin must engage the forward console.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
INSTRUMENT PANEL
WARNING: DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE THE BAT-
TERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE BEFORE
BEGINNING ANY AIRBAG SYSTEM COMPONENT
REMOVAL OR INSTALLATION PROCEDURE. THIS
WILL DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM.
FAILURE TO DISCONNECT BATTERY COULD
RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT
AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
ALLOW SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE
FOR 2 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING ANY AIRBAG
COMPONENTS.
END COVER KNEE BOLSTER
8E - 10 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SYSTEMS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
REMOVAL
When removing a passenger airbag module refer to
Group 8M, Restraint Systems for Passenger Air Bag
Module Removal.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative remote cable.
(2) Open both vehicle front doors. Remove left end cover by pulling outboard. Remove right end cover by pulling rearward (Fig. 15).
JA
Fig. 15 Instrument Panel Breakdown
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
(3) Remove transmission range indicator bezel from floor console. Use care not to mar the bezel or console.
(4) Remove floor center console.
Remove two mounting screws in the front and two mounting screws under the decorative caps in the rear.
(5) Disconnect Airbag Control Module (ACM).
(6) Remove instrument cluster hood.
(a) Remove two screws adjacent radio.
(b) Remove the screw below HVAC control.
(c) Remove screw at left end of panel.
(d) Pull on hood to disengage the eight clips.
(7) Remove two cubby bin screws and remove.
(8) Remove five knee bolster mounting screws.
(9) Open glove box door and press sidewalls inboard to lower door from panel to access forward floor console.
(10) Remove forward floor console nine attaching screws and one push pin at forward driver’s side.
(11) Pull the driver’s under panel silencer outboard off the distribution duct.
(12) Remove instrument panel top cover attaching screw on passenger side.
(a) Lift the right rear edge of top cover to disengage the clips along the rear edge. Proceeding from right to the left side. Do not use a nylon trim stick, to avoid marring cover or panel.
(b) Lift rear edge and slide top cover rearward disengaging clips and remove cover.
(13) Remove HVAC control attaching screws.
(14) Remove center distribution duct screws from behind radio and duct.
(15) Remove radio. Access and remove the three
HVAC attaching screws to duct and panel. Remove the three HVAC attaching bolts from the cross-car beam.
(16) Close glove box door.
(17) Remove five screws attaching panel retainer to plenum.
(18) Remove steering column intermediate shaft attaching bolt.
(19) Disconnect engine and body wire harness from Junction Block/BCM.
(20) Remove fasteners:
• Four at left end and three at the right end of the cross car beam
• Two at steering column plenum
• One at glove box hinge to cowl
• Two at center support to the floor pan bracket
(21) Remove attaching screw at the rear of HVAC to the center support bracket.
(22) Lift up instrument panel and move rearward to remove.
INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SYSTEMS 8E - 11
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures. DO
NOT CONNECT battery negative remote cable. Refer to Group 8M, Restraint Systems for Air Bag System test.
INSTRUMENT PANEL END COVERS – LEFT AND
RIGHT
REMOVAL
(1) Open the left door and pull on the access handle and pivoting around A-pillar to disengage end cover clips. Fuse Puller, Spare Fuses And Fuse Diagram Are Located On Left End Cover. Fuse Access Is
Under Left End Cover (Fig. 15).
(2) Open right door and glove box door.
(3) Remove right end cover by pulling rearward to disengage clips.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Ensure spare fuses are seated to left end cover.
INSTRUMENT PANEL SPEAKERS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove instrument panel top cover, refer to
Instrument Panel Top Cover Removal procedures.
(2) Remove two screws on each speaker and lift up, disconnect wiring connector and remove speaker.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures
INSTRUMENT PANEL TOP COVER
REMOVAL
(1) Open glove box door.
(2) Remove right end cap and remove screw at right end.
(3) Lift the right rear edge of top cover to disengage the clips along the rear edge. Proceeding from right to the left side. Do not use a nylon trim stick, to avoid potential damage (Fig. 16).
(4) Lift rear edge and slide top cover rearward disengaging clips and remove cover.
SPEAKER JUNCTION/BCM
8E - 12 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SYSTEMS
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Ensure the two center clips are engaged first. Place thumb in VIN opening and pull towards pad to ensure VIN alignment. If a gap exist between the top cover and pad after installation check for a damaged clip. The clip must be removed and replaced.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Ensure that the wire terminals and connectors are in good condition and connectors are properly installed.
Fig. 16 Top Cover
JUNCTION BLOCK/BODY CONTROL MODULE
JUNCTION BLOCK
REMOVAL
The Junction Block and Body Control Module
(BCM) are attached to each other. After removal they can be separated. Junction Block and Body Control
Module assemblies are located on the driver’s side of the vehicle (Fig. 17).
(1) Open the front driver’s door and remove end cap.
(2) Remove center bezel.
(3) Remove instrument cluster hood.
(4) Remove silencer.
(5) Remove wire harness connectors from Junction
Block.
(6) Remove Junction Block three mounting screws.
(7) Remove Junction Block/BCM by pulling straight down from the mounting bayonet.
(8) Disconnect BCM wire connectors and remove the assembly.
(9) Remove Junction Block/BCM from vehicle.
Fig. 17 Junction Block/BCM Location
BODY CONTROL MODULE
REMOVAL
(1) The Junction Block/BCM removed from the vehicle, separate the BCM from the Junction Block.
(2) Remove the two BCM attaching screws and release the two BCM locking latches from the Junction Block.
(3) Disconnect BCM from the Junction Block.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
LEFT UNDER INSTRUMENT PANEL SILENCER/
DUCT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove two lower knee bolster screws and slip silencer off outboard attaching formation.
(2) Maneuver part off of center floor distribution duct to remove.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Install prior to knee bolster.
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
MASK/LENS
INSTRUMENT PANEL AND SYSTEMS
MOUNTING SCREWS
8E - 13
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
REMOVAL
Remove mask/lens retaining screws and remove mask/lens (Fig. 11).
SPEEDOMETER/TACHOMETER AND ODOMETER
TRANSMISSION RANGE INDICATOR
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
ODOMETER/TRANSMISSION RANGE INDICATOR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove speedometer/tachometer, refer to
Speedometer/Tachometer and Odometer Transmission Range Indicator Removal and Installation
(2) Remove screws attaching from the back of speedometer and remove the odometer/transmission range indicator display (Fig. 18).
REMOVAL
(1) Remove mask/lens retaining screws and remove mask/lens (Fig. 11).
(2) Disconnect odometer/transmission range indicator connector from the printed circuit board (Fig.
12).
(3) Remove screws attaching speedometer/tachometer to housing and remove (Fig. 13).
(4) Remove screws attaching from the back of speedometer and remove the odometer/transmission range indicator display (Fig. 18).
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
POWER OUTLET
REMOVAL
(1) Remove cubby bin.
(2) Disconnect the two power outlet wiring connectors from power outlet. Unscrew shell and clamp assembly to replace power outlet.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures. The clamp has a locating feature. The cubby bin must engage the console at its forward edge prior to installing the mounting screws.
RADIO
For Radio removal procedures, Refer to Group 8F,
Audio Systems.
RIGHT UNDER INSTRUMENT PANEL SILENCER/
DUCT
Fig. 18 Odometer/Transmission Range Indicator
VEHICLE THEFT SECURITY SYSTEM LED
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect Vehicle Theft Security System LED socket assembly indicator from the printed circuit board (Fig. 8).
(2) Rotate LED socket counter clockwise and remove from printed circuit board.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove push-in fastener under right end of instrument panel.
(2) Maneuver part off center floor distribution duct to remove.
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INSTRUMENT PANEL AND GAUGE 8E - 1
INSTRUMENT PANEL AND GAUGE
GENERAL INFORMATION
CLUSTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
HEADLAMP LEVELING SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
GENERAL INFORMATION
CONTENTS page
ELECTRO/MECHANICAL INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
The mechanical instrument cluster is an electromechanical module which receives most of its information from the Body Control Module (BCM) via the
CCD bus.
The cluster (Fig. 1) includes: page
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
FUEL GAUGE AND TEMPERATURE GAUGE . . . 1
HEADLAMP LEVELING SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
INDICATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
• Low oil pressure
• High temperature
• Low fuel
• Seat belt
• Cruise
• Brake/park brake
• Anti-lock brake system
• High beam
•
Fog lamps
•
Vehicle Theft Security System alarm LED indicator (optional)
•
Turn signals
The gauges are the magnetic air-core type. When the ignition switch is OFF, the gauge pointers should rest at or below the low graduation.
Fig. 1 Cluster
•
240 km/h (180 MPH) speedometer
• Tachometer
• Odometer/trip odometer and transmission range indicator with automatic transmission
• Fuel gauge
• Temperature gauge
• Security alarm indicator (optional)
The warning and information indicators include the following:
• Malfunction indicator lamp (Check Engine)
• Airbag
• Charging system
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
HEADLAMP LEVELING SWITCH
(1) Remove headlamp leveling switch from instrument panel and disconnect the wire harness connector from the switch. Refer to Wiring Diagrams for the proper wire circuits and connector connections.
(2) Using a voltmeter, connect B+ lead to Pin 1 of the Wire harness connector. Connect the negative lead to Pin 2. Turn ON the headlamp switch to the low beam position. If battery voltage, OK. If not OK, go to Step 3.
(3) Connect the ground lead to a good ground, if no voltage, refer to Wiring Diagrams and test circuit back to headlamp switch. If battery voltage, repair
Pin 2 ground circuit as necessary.
8E - 2 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND GAUGE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
(4) Turn headlamps OFF. Connect the wire harness connector to the headlamp leveling switch. Turn ON the headlamp switch to the low beam position. Check voltage at Pin 3, while rotating the headlamp leveling switch knob through it’s range. The voltage reading should change as the switch is rotated. If the voltage does not vary replace switch. If OK, test the headlamp leveling motors and/or circuit to the motors.
Fig. 4 Back Cover Retaining Screws
Fig. 2 Headlamp Leveling Switch Circuit Diagram
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
FUEL GAUGE AND TEMPERATURE GAUGE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove mask/lens retaining screws and remove mask/lens (Fig. 3).
(2) Disconnect odometer/transmission range indicator connector from the printed circuit board (Fig. 4).
(3) Remove screws attaching speedometer/tachometer to housing and remove (Fig. 5).
(4) Remove the fuel/temperature gauge attaching screws from the housing and remove (Fig. 6).
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Fig. 5
Fig. 6 Fuel Gauge and Temperature Gauge
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Fig. 3 Mask/Lens Retaining Screws
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
HEADLAMP LEVELING SWITCH
INSTRUMENT PANEL AND GAUGE 8E - 3
SPEEDOMETER/TACHOMETER AND ODOMETER
TRANSMISSION RANGE INDICATOR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
(2) Using a trim stick or other suitable wide flat bladed tool, pry gently around the edges of the headlamp leveling switch (Fig. 7).
REMOVAL
(1) Remove mask/lens retaining screws and remove mask/lens.
(2) Disconnect odometer/transmission range indicator connector from the printed circuit board.
(3) Remove screws attaching speedometer/tachometer to housing and remove.
(4) Remove screws attaching from the back of speedometer and remove the odometer/transmission range indicator display (Fig. 8).
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Fig. 7 Headlamp Leveling Switch
(3) Pull the headlamp leveling switch out from the instrument cluster hood far enough to disengage the wiring connector.
(4) Remove the switch from the instrument cluster hood.
INSTALLATION
Reverse the preceding operation.
Fig. 8 Odometer/Transmission Range Indicator
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AUDIO SYSTEMS 8F - 1
AUDIO SYSTEMS
GENERAL INFORMATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
REMOTE AMPLIFIER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
AUDIO DIAGNOSTIC TEST PROCEDURES . . . . 2
DIAGNOSTIC CONDITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
MANUAL ANTENNA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
CONTENTS page page
POWER ANTENNA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
DOOR MOUNTED SPEAKER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
. . . . . . . . . . . 14
MANUAL ANTENNA AND MAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
POWER ANTENNA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
RADIO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
REMOTE AMPLIFIER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
GENERAL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION
For operation of the factory installed standard and optional radios with cassette or compact disc player, refer to the Sound Systems Operating Instructions in the Owners Manual supplied with the vehicle.
The vehicles are shipped with fuse 5 removed from the Junction Block. The fuse replaces the ignition-off draw (IOD) connector. Fuse 5 is a ten amp fuse.
When removed it prevents the battery from discharging during storage. For specific wiring and location, refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
INTERFERENCE ELIMINATION
Some components used on the vehicles are equipped with a capacitor to suppress radio frequency interference/static.
Capacitors are mounted in various locations internal to the generator, instrument cluster and windshield wiper motor.
A ground strap is mounted from the engine to shock tower. On four cylinder engines, there is a ground strap from the rear of the muffler to the muffler mounting bracket. These ground circuits should be securely tightened to assure good metal to metal contact. Ground straps conduct very small high frequency electrical signals to ground and require clean large surface area contact. The radio grounds to the cross car beam through pinch brackets that grounds automatically as the radio is installed into the instrument panel.
Radio resistance type spark plug cables in the high tension circuit of the ignition system complete the interference suppression.
Faulty or deteriorated spark plug wires should be replaced.
POWER ANTENNA
The power operated radio antenna is a telescoping type antenna, extended and retracted by a reversible electric motor.
The Automatic Power Antenna is controlled by a combination of an internal relay and limit switches which, are built into the antenna motor housing.
This antenna is actuated when the radio is switched
ON and the ignition switch in ON or ACCESSORY position. When the ignition switch or the radio is turned OFF the antenna mast should retract fully.
Many antenna problems may be avoided by frequent cleaning of the antenna mast telescoping sections. Clean the antenna mast sections with a clean soft cloth.
Before an antenna is removed, the antenna performance should be tested to decide if it is a reception problem or an operational problem.
Whenever a operational malfunction occurs, first verify that the radio antenna wire harness is properly connected. Check all connectors before starting normal diagnosis and repair procedures.
REMOTE AMPLIFIER
The amplifier is located under the right front seat.
When the radio system is ON, and all or some speakers are not operating or have a noise distortion refer to the diagnostic tests. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams for Pin numbers and location.
8F - 2 AUDIO SYSTEMS
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
AUDIO DIAGNOSTIC TEST PROCEDURES
CAUTION: The CD player will only operate between approximate temperatures of -23°C and +65°C (-10°F and +145°F).
Whenever a radio malfunction occurs;
(1) First check FUSES in the Fuse Block:
(a) Fuse 5, Memory feed and the Power Antenna
(if equipped)
(b) Fuse 7, Illumination
(c) Fuse 8, Power Amplifier
(d) Fuse 14, Ignition feed
NOTE: The vehicles are shipped with the INTERIOR
LAMP fuse disconnected.
(2) Verify, the radio wire harness are properly connected before starting normal diagnosis and repair procedures. Refer to Audio Diagnostic Charts and/or
Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
DIAGNOSTIC CONDITIONS
NOISE DISTORTION IN ALL SPEAKERS
Does the distortion occur through all operations:
• AM and FM stations
• Cassette tape
• Compact disc
If not, check for radio interference, damaged tape or disc that may be causing the distortion. Refer to
Sound Systems Operating Instructions in the Owners
Manual for cleaning procedures of the cassette tape player.
• Check battery voltage, for 11 Volts or more
• Check amplifier connectors, and wires for proper connection
•
If OK, check radio, refer to Radio Diagnosis
•
If OK, replace amplifier
ELECTRICAL NOISE DISTORTION ONE
SPEAKER
• Remove output signal connector from amplifier and check for short to ground on the speaker with the distortion. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams for the appropriate pin numbers.
• If shorted to ground, disconnect speaker connector and recheck from the amplifier for short to ground.
• If still shorted to ground, repair wires. Not shorted to ground, replace speaker.
• Not shorted to ground, check speaker resistance at amplifier connector for two to five ohms.
• If resistance is OK, refer to Radio Diagnosis. If radio checks OK, replace amplifier.
• If resistance is less than two ohms, replace speaker. If resistance is OK, repair wires
MECHANICAL NOISE DISTORTION
• Check trim for loose parts, and speaker attachments for buzzes
• Remove speaker that is still connected and listen for distortion. If distortion remains, replace speaker.
ONE SPEAKER NON-OPERATIVE
• Remove output signal connector from amplifier and check for two to five ohms resistance to the nonoperative speaker. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams for the appropriate pin numbers.
•
If resistance is less than two ohms, test speaker for resistance.
•
If OK, repair wire. If not OK, replace speaker.
ALL SPEAKERS NON-OPERATIVE
• Check radio for being ON, are the display lights on
• Radio not ON, refer to Radio Diagnosis
• Check fuses, amplifier connectors and wires for proper connection
• Check for good ground
• Check amplifier, for battery voltage and
ON/OFF voltage
(1) Battery voltage OK and NO voltage at the
ON/OFF terminal, check for short or open in the
ON/OFF circuit.
(2) ON/OFF voltage OK, and NO battery voltage, check for short or open in battery circuit.
(3) Prior to replacing amplifier check fuse to the cigar lighter and horn. If not OK, replace fuse. If fuse blows again disconnect amplifier B+ wire connector.
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams for the proper connector.
(4) If fuse still blows the problem is not the amplifier. If fuse does not blow replace the amplifier.
(5) If shorted or open circuit repair as necessary.
NO BASS FREQUENCIES, HIGH AND MID
FREQUENCIES OK
• Check fuses, amplifier connectors and wires for proper connection
• Check for good ground
• Check amplifier for battery voltage, and
ON/OFF voltage
(1) Battery voltage OK and NO voltage at the
ON/OFF terminal, check for short or open in the
ON/OFF circuit.
(2) ON/OFF voltage OK, and NO battery voltage, check for short or open in battery circuit.
(3) Prior to replacing amplifier, check fuse to the cigar lighter and horn. If not OK, replace fuse. If fuse blows again, disconnect amplifier B+ wire connector.
FM RUN NOISE
CD ONLY INOP-
ERATIVE
KNOWN GOOD
RADIO
NO
AM-FM OK
JA
EXCHANGE YES
SPEAKER
ONE NO IN
ARE
STATION & SET VOLUME TO LISTEN-
ING LEVEL
REPAIR
DOES
SPEAKER
AS NO NO
BUZZ?
BATTERY VOLTAGE
BLOWN FUSES
STILL NO AUDIO
CHECK GRAY CONNECING
FOR
SPEAKER
YES
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
VIEW FROM WIRE
REPLACE
SPEAKER
REPAIR CIR-
CUIT AS NEC-
ESSARY
AUDIO SYSTEMS 8F - 3
BASE 4 SPEAKER SYSTEM
CHECK SPEAKER CHECK RADIO CONNECTOR FOR: SARY SPEAKER
8F - 4 AUDIO SYSTEMS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
YES EXCHANGERADIO
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BASE 4 SPEAKER SYSTEM CONTINUED
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
AUDIO SYSTEMS 8F - 5
BASE 4 SPEAKER SYSTEM CONTINUED
8F - 6
NO OBSTRUCTION FOR
AUDIO SYSTEMS
YES EATS TAPES. (DIRTY
CHECK TAPES FOR: TURN RADIO ON & INSERT TAPE*
• CRACKED OR WARPED CASE
• LOOSE LABEL ON CASE
• TAPE PAD MISSING
• TAPE SPOOL(S) JAMMING
IF
*NO EJECT
WITH
EXCHANGE UNIT
LABEL MANCE ADVISE
TRY A KNOWN GOOD
Do Not Force Removal of Jammed Cassette
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
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BASE 4 SPEAKER SYSTEM CONTINUED
FM RUN NOISE
CD ONLY INOP-
ERATIVE
KNOWN GOOD
RADIO
NO
AM-FM OK
JA
EXCHANGE YES
SPEAKER
ONE NO IN
ARE
STATION & SET VOLUME TO LISTEN-
ING LEVEL
REPAIR
DOES
SPEAKER
AS NO NO
BUZZ?
BATTERY VOLTAGE
BLOWN FUSES
STILL NO AUDIO
CHECK GRAY CONNECING
FOR
SPEAKER
YES
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
VIEW FROM WIRE
REPLACE
SPEAKER
REPAIR CIR-
CUIT AS NEC-
ESSARY
AUDIO SYSTEMS 8F - 7
AMPLIFIED
8F - 8 AUDIO SYSTEMS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
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AMPLIFIED CONTINUED
JA
DISCONNECT ING HARNESS YES FIER YES NO NO YES YES YES NO WITH A CIRCUIT YES REPAIR YES
AUDIO SYSTEMS 8F - 9
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
AMPLIFIED CONTINUED
START ENGINE WITH ENGINE RUNNING.
IF NO RADIO EXCHANGE
8F - 10 AUDIO SYSTEMS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
YES YES OR OR
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AMPLIFIED CONTINUED
JA
NO OBSTRUCTION FOR YES EATS TAPES. (DIRTY
CHECK TAPES FOR: TURN RADIO ON & INSERT TAPE*
• CRACKED OR WARPED CASE
• LOOSE LABEL ON CASE
• TAPE PAD MISSING
• TAPE SPOOL(S) JAMMING
IF WITH
Do Not Force Removal of Jammed Cassette
EXCHANGE UNIT
LABEL MANCE ADVISE
TRY A KNOWN GOOD
AUDIO SYSTEMS 8F - 11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
AMPLIFIED CONTINUED
NO UP DO EXCHANGE
8F - 12 AUDIO SYSTEMS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
IS CD DIRTY YES YES GENTLY CLEAN WITH A
JA
AMPLIFIED CONTINUED
TIP OF MAST RADIO TEST POINT
JA
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams for the proper connector.
(4) If fuse still blows, the problem is not the amplifier. If fuse does not blow, replace the amplifier.
(5) If shorted or open circuit, repair as necessary.
MANUAL ANTENNA
Check for short or open circuits with an ohmmeter or continuity light once the antenna cable is disconnected from the radio. The radio coax cable has a connector that connects behind the between passenger seat and console.
(1) Continuity should be present between the antenna mast and radio end pin of antenna cable plug (Fig. 1).
(2) No continuity should be observed or a very high resistance of several megohms between the ground shell of the connector and radio end pin.
(3) Continuity should be observed between the ground shell of the connector and the mounting hardware in the trunk right rear quarter panel
RUBBER GROMGROUND STRAP
AUDIO SYSTEMS 8F - 13
(3) If the motor will not operate, replace the antenna assembly.
(4) If the motor runs freely and the antenna does not extend or retract, the mast or drive assembly is at fault. Remove the mast and verify that all the drive teeth are intact. If not replace mast.
(5) If the mast jumps or travel rate is slow during operation or the motor labors.
(a) Check for bent mast. If bent replace mast.
(b) Check for dirty mast and clean it as necessary. If corroded, replace mast.
(c) If cleaning the antenna sections does not solve the problem, the antenna mast should be replaced.
(6) If mast fails to extend or retract completely, or motor continued to operate after full extension or retraction of mast. Check for broken teeth on the mast drive rod or bent mast.
(7) If the mast checks good, the antenna assembly should be replaced.
(8) Upon establishing that the fault is in the antenna assembly, it may be traced to one or more of the following conditions:
(a) Broken lead-in wire or shielding.
(b) Grounded lead-in wire or mast.
(c) Moisture in support tube or lead-in assembly.
(d) Poor connection at antenna lead-in assembly or shielding ground.
Fig. 1 Antenna Test Points
POWER ANTENNA
(1) To extend antenna, using jumper wires, attach one end to a battery positive source and the other to the red and green wire terminals for up direction.
Connect the second lead to a good ground or to the antenna mounting bracket (Fig. 2).
(2) To retract antenna attach the battery positive source to the red wire terminal for the down direction. Connect the second lead to a good ground or to the antenna mounting bracket.
Fig. 2 Power Antenna Assembly
SPEAKER
8F - 14 AUDIO SYSTEMS
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
DOOR MOUNTED SPEAKER
CAUTION: Do not operate the radio with speaker leads detached. Damage to the output devices may result.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove window crank handle if equipped.
Carefully, pry speaker grille away from door trim panel (Fig. 3).
(2) Remove three speaker retaining screws.
(3) Pull speaker away from door and disconnect wiring.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Ensure speaker is in the proper position
(c) Lift rear edge of top cover using a trim stick along rear edge.
(d) While lifting rear edge slide top cover rearward to disengage front clips and remove the top cover.
(2) To remove right or left speaker remove two retaining screws. Lift up speaker and disconnect wire connector (Fig. 5).
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Fig. 4 Instrument Panel Top Cover
Fig. 3 Door Mounted Speaker
INSTRUMENT PANEL SPEAKER
CAUTION: Do not operate the radio with speaker leads detached. Damage to the output devices may result.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove instrument panel top cover:
(a) Remove screw from right side of the top cover.
(b) Carefully, pry up each end of top cover to disengage clips (Fig. 4).
Fig. 5 Instrument Panel Speakers
MANUAL ANTENNA AND MAST
REMOVAL
(1) Inside trunk, pull the right side trunk liner aside.
(2) Unplug antenna lead from base of antenna body.
(3) Remove antenna mast by unscrewing mast from antenna body.
(4) Remove screw from mounting bracket (Fig. 6).
(5) Pull antenna body down through the rubber grommet.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Check that the grommet locating tab is in-line with
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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued) the slot in the body before installing antenna. Ensure the ball of the antenna body is inside grommet.
AUDIO SYSTEMS 8F - 15
(3) Replace the cap nut and tighten to 1.5 N·m (15 in. lbs.) torque.
(4) Turn radio on and off to extend and retract antenna. Mast should be fully lowered after recycling.
Fig. 6 Antenna Mounting Removal
POWER ANTENNA
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Inside trunk, pull trunk liner aside.
(3) Unplug antenna lead from pigtail connector, disconnect wire connector, remove drain tube from grommet (Fig. 2).
(4) Remove screws attaching ground strap and antenna brace.
(5) Pull antenna body down through the rubber grommet.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Check that the grommet locating tab is in-line with the slot in the body before installing antenna. Ensure the ball of antenna body is inside grommet. Tighten antenna bracket ground strap screws to 4 N·m (40 in.
lbs.) torque.
POWER ANTENNA MAST
REMOVAL
(1) Remove cap nut.
(2) Turn ignition key to ACCESSORY position and turn on radio.
(3) While the mast is moving up pull upward to remove mast, contact spring and drive rod from the mast tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Insert new drive rod into mast tube with drive teeth toward antenna motor (Fig. 7).
(2) Turn off radio and guide mast into tube. The mast may not be fully lowered when first installed.
Fig. 7 Power Mast Replacement
RADIO
REMOVAL
(1) Remove center bezel by pulling straight back
(Fig. 8).
(2) Remove two radio mounting screws (Fig. 9).
(3) Turn OFF radio and ignition switch. DO NOT disconnect the radio with ignition switch ON.
(4) Pull radio from panel and disconnect wire connectors and antenna lead from radio.
(5) Remove radio.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedure.
Fig. 8 Center Bezel Removal
MOUNTING SCREWS
8F - 16 AUDIO SYSTEMS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
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PASSENGER SEAT AMPLIFIER
Fig. 9 Radio Assembly
REAR SPEAKER
CAUTION: Do not operate the radio with speaker leads detached. Damage to the output devices may result.
The wire connectors can be accessed through the trunk.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove parcel shelf panel, refer to Group 23,
Body.
(2) Remove four retaining screws (Fig. 10).
(3) Disconnect wire connector and remove speaker.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures. Be sure that the wire connectors are facing outward in vehicle.
Fig.10 Rear Speakers
REMOTE AMPLIFIER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the right front seat.
(2) Remove the two screws and one nut attaching the amplifier (Fig. 11).
(3) Disconnect the electrical connectors and remove.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
Tighten fasteners to 4 N·m (40 in. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 11 Amplifier Location
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+ POSITIVE —
HORNS 8G - 1
HORNS
CONTENTS page
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
HORN CONTACT SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 page
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
SYSTEM TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
HORN CONTACT SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
INTRODUCTION
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAG, SEE GROUP 8M, RESTRAINT SYSTEMS FOR
STEERING WHEEL OR COLUMN REMOVAL PROCE-
DURES.
The horn circuit consists of a horn contact, horn relay, and horns. The horn circuit feed is from the fuse to the horn relay in the Junction Block. When the horn contact is depressed, it completes the ground circuit. Then the horn relay coil closes a set of contacts which allows current to flow to the horns.
The horn(s) are grounded at the shock tower. Refer to
Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams for horn circuit.
HORN RELAY
The horn relay is a International Standards Organization (ISO) micro-relay. The terminal designations and functions are the same as a conventional ISO relay. However, the micro-relay terminal orientation
(or footprint) is different, current capacity is lower, and the relay case dimensions are smaller than on the conventional ISO relay.
The horn relay is a electromechanical device that switches current to the horn when the Driver Airbag
Module is depressed. See the Diagnosis and Testing section of this group for more information on the operation of the horn relay.
The horn relay is located in the Junction Block.
Refer to the Junction Block label for horn relay identification and location.
If a problem is encountered with a continuously sounding horn, it can usually be quickly resolved by removing the horn relay from the Junction Block until further diagnosis is completed. The horn relay cannot be repaired and, if faulty, it must be replaced.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
HORN
(1) Disconnect wire connector at horn.
(2) Using a voltmeter, connect one lead to ground terminal and the other lead to the positive wire terminal (Fig. 1).
(3) Depress the horn switch, battery voltage should be present.
(4) If no voltage, refer to Horn Does Not Sound. If voltage is OK, go to Step 5.
(5) Using ohmmeter, test ground wire for continuity to ground.
(6) If no ground repair as necessary.
(7) If wires test OK and horn does not sound, replace horn.
Fig. 1 Horn and Connector
HORN CONTACT SWITCH
The horn contact consist of,
• A contact switch is mounted between the Driver
Airbag Module and steering wheel
• The horn wire is attached to Driver Airbag Module mounting bracket.
AIR BAG MODULE BAG
HORN RELAY
8G - 2 HORNS
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
• When the Driver Airbag Module is pressed the contact ring touches the bracket mounting bolts and makes contact to ground. The ground signal is carried to the horn relay and horn sounds.
(1) Ground horn wire (Fig. 2).
(2) If does not horn sounds check for corrosion on wire, bracket or airbag contact ring and ensure horn wire is properly connected.
(3) If bracket needs to be replaced, the steering wheel must be replaced. If contact ring is bad the
Driver Airbag Module must be replaced.
(4) Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams if wire circuit needs to be repaired.
Fig. 2 Horn Contact
HORN RELAY
(1) Remove horn relay from the Junction Block
(Fig. 3).
Fig. 3 Horn Relay Location
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(2) Using ohmmeter, test between the Junction
Block relay terminal 7 and ground for continuity.
(a) When the horn contact is not depressed, no continuity.
(b) Continuity to ground when horn contact is depressed.
(c) If continuity is not correct, repair horn contact or wiring as necessary. Refer to Group 8W,
Wiring diagrams.
(3) Insert a jumper wire between terminals 8 and
10 of the horn relay in the Junction Block.
(a) If horns sound replace relay.
(b) If the horns do not sound, install horn relay and refer to Horn Test.
(4) Using voltmeter, test battery voltage:
(a) Test Junction Block horn relay terminals 6 and 8 for voltage from fuse 8.
(b) If not OK, repair as necessary. Refer to
Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
HORNS WILL NOT SOUND
Check horn fuse 12 in the Power Distribution Center and fuse 8 in the Junction Block. If fuse is blown refer to FUSE BLOWN section. If fuse is OK, refer to
FUSE OK section.
FUSE BLOWN
(1) Verify condition of battery terminals and voltage, refer to Group 8A, Battery. If battery connections and battery charge is OK, go to Step 2.
(2) Using a voltmeter, test for battery voltage at both sides of horn fuse 8. If voltage is OK, on both sides of fuse, go to Fuse OK. If voltage is OK, on one side of fuse, the fuse is blown, go to Step 3.
(3) Using a suitable ammeter in place of the fuse, test amperage draw of the horn circuit. If amperage draw is greater than 20 amps without the horn switch depressed, a grounded circuit exists between the fuse and the horn relay. Go to Step 4. If amperage draw is greater than 20 amps with the horn switch depressed, a grounded circuit exists between the horn relay and the horn. Go to Step 6.
(4) Remove the horn relay from the Junction
Block. If the amperage draw drops to 0 amps, the horn switch or circuit is shorted. Refer to group 8W,
Wiring Diagrams for circuit information. If amperage does not drop go to Step 5.
(5) Disconnect both horns. If amperage does not drop with both horns disconnected and the horn switch depressed, go to Step 7. If the amperage draw drops go to Step 6.
(6) Disconnect the wire connector from one of the horns. If amperage drops and the connected horn sounds, reverse the procedure, and replace the faulty horn.
(7) Using a continuity tester, with the horns disconnected test continuity of the X2 cavity of the horn
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued) relay to ground. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams for circuit information. If continuity is detected, the circuit is grounded between the Junction Block and the horns. Locate and repair pinched harness. If the amperage draw does not drop to 0 amps, repair short at the Junction Block.
FUSE OK
(1) Remove the horn relay from the Junction
Block.
(2) Using a continuity tester, Depress horn switch and test continuity from the X3 cavity of the horn relay to ground. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams for circuit information.
(a) If continuity is detected, go to Step 3.
(b) If NO continuity, go to Step 4.
(3) Using a suitable jumper wire, jump across the fuse F62 cavity and the X2 cavity of the horn relay in the Junction Block.
(a) If the horn sounds, replace the horn relay.
(b) If the horn does not sound, go to Step 4.
(4) Remove airbag/horn pad from steering wheel.
Refer to Group 8M, Restraint Systems for proper procedures.
(5) Test continuity across horn switch connectors with horn switch depressed.
HORNS 8G - 3
(a) If continuity is detected, repair open circuit between the relay and the horn switch.
(b) If NO continuity, replace airbag cover.
(6) Install horn relay into Junction Block.
(7) Disconnect the wire connectors from horns.
(8) Using a voltmeter, with the horn switch depressed test voltage across horn connector terminals of the wire harness (Fig. 1).
(a) If voltage is detected, replace horns.
(b) If NO voltage, go to Step 9.
(9) With the horn switch depressed, test for voltage between the X2 circuit and ground.
(a) If voltage OK, repair system ground at right cowl area. Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams.
(b) If NO voltage, repair open X2 circuit between the relay and the horns.
SYSTEM TEST
CAUTION: Continuous sounding of horns may cause horn relay to fail.
Check fuse 8 in the Junction Block, and refer to
Horn System Test.
Refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams for circuit and wiring information.
8G - 4 HORNS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
CONDITION
Horn sounds continuously.
NOTE: Immediately unplug horn and relay in the Junction Block
Horn sound intermittently as the steering wheel is turned.
Horn does not sound
Fuse blows when horn is blown
Fuse blows without blowing horn
HORN SYSTEM TEST
POSSIBLE CAUSE
(1) Faulty horn relay.
(2) Horn control circuit to relay shorted to ground.
(3) Pinched horn switch wire under
Driver Airbag Module.
(4) Defective horn switch
(1) Horn relay control circuit X3 is shorted to ground inside steering column or the wheel.
(2) Pinched horn switch wire under
Driver Airbag Module
(3) Defective horn switch
(1) Check fuse 8 in the Junction
Block.
(2) No Voltage at horn relay terminals 6 & 8, and fuse is OK.
(3) Defective or damaged horn.
(4) Defective horn switch
(1) Short circuit in horn or horn wiring
(1) Short circuit
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CORRECTION
(1) Refer to horn relay test.
(2) Check horn relay terminal 8 in the Junction Block for continuity to ground indicates:
(a) Wiring harness shorted to ground.
(b) Find the short and repair as necessary.
(3) Remove Driver Airbag Module and check for rubbing, shorted or loose wire connector and repair as necessary.
(4) Replace Driver Airbag Module.
(1) Remove Driver Airbag Module and/or steering wheel as needed.
Check for rubbing or loose wire/connector, repair as necessary.
(2) Replace Driver Airbag Module.
(3) Replace Driver Airbag Module.
(1) Replace fuse if blown as repair as necessary.
(2) No voltage, Repair or replace
Junction Block as necessary.
(3) Voltage at horn when horn switch is pressed, replace horn.
(4) Replace Driver Airbag Module.
(1) Remove horn relay, check for shorted horn or horn wiring.
Disconnect horn wire harness to isolate short and repair as necessary.
(1) Remove relay, install new fuse, if fuse does not blow replace horn relay. If fuse blows with relay removed, check for short to ground with ohmmeter on circuit between terminals 6 & 8 and the fuse terminal. Repair as necessary.
NOTE: For wiring repairs refer to
Group 8W, Wire Diagrams.
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HORNS 8G - 5
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
HORNS
REMOVAL
(1) Hoist and support front vehicle on safety stands.
(2) The horns are located behind the front fascia on the right front frame rail. Remove the splash shield as necessary for access. front.
(3) Disconnect the wire connector from the horn.
(4) Remove mount bracket attaching bolt from the front frame rail. Do not remove horn from mounting bracket (Fig. 4).
(5) Remove horn from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
HORN CONTACT SWITCH
WARNING: BEFORE BEGINNING ANY AIRBAG
SYSTEM REMOVAL OR INSTALLATION PROCE-
DURES, REMOVE AND ISOLATE THE BATTERY
NEGATIVE CABLE FROM THE VEHICLE BATTERY.
THIS IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE
AIRBAG SYSTEM. FAILURE TO DO THIS COULD
RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT
AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate battery negative cable in engine compartment.
(2) Remove the screws that attach the Driver Airbag Module to the steering wheel.
(3) Lift the module to gain access and disconnect the squib wire.
(4) Place Driver Airbag Module on a clean level surface with pad facing upward.
(5) If the contact area is bad, replace Driver Airbag Module. If the mounting bracket or bushings are bad, replace steering wheel.
Fig. 4 Horn Location
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures. Use caution not to pinch wires.
HORN RELAY
REMOVAL
(1) Open driver’s door and remove instrument panel end cover.
(2) Remove horn relay (Fig. 3).
INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.
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HORN SPEED
VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM 8H - 1
VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM
GENERAL INFORMATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
AUTOMATIC SPEED CONTROL OVERSPEED
REDUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE . . . . . . . . . . 3
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
VACUUM RESERVOIR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
VEHICLE SPEED AND DISTANCE . . . . . . . . . . . 3
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
CHECKING FOR DIAGNOSTIC CODES . . . . . . . 4
ELECTRICAL TESTS AT POWERTRAIN
CONTROL MODULE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
CONTENTS page page
CONTROL SET . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
ROAD TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
SERVO VACUUM TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
. . . . . . . 6
SPEED CONTROL SWITCH TEST . . . . . . . . . . . 8
STOP LAMP SWITCH TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE . . . . . . . . . 12
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
SPEED CONTROL SERVO CABLE . . . . . . . . . . 11
SPEED CONTROL SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
STOP LAMP SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
VACUUM RESERVOIR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
GENERAL INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION
The speed control system is electronically controlled and vacuum operated. The electronic control is integrated into the powertrain control module, located on the left side of the engine compartment next to the air cleaner. The controls are located on the steering wheel and consist of two switches. The
ON/OFF and CANCEL, buttons are located on the left spoke of the steering wheel. The RESUME/AC-
CEL and SET/COAST buttons are located on the lower spoke of the steering wheel (Fig. 1). For identification and location of the major components (Fig.
2).
Fig. 1 Speed Control Switch
VACUUM 2.0L/2.4L
THROTTLE BODY
8H - 2 VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)
SERVO CON-
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The system is designed to operate at speeds above
30 mph (50 km/h).
WARNING: THE USE OF SPEED CONTROL IS
NOT RECOMMENDED WHEN DRIVING CONDITIONS
DO NOT PERMIT MAINTAINING A CONSTANT
SPEED, SUCH AS IN HEAVY TRAFFIC OR ON
ROADS THAT ARE WINDING, ICY, SNOW COVERED,
OR SLIPPERY.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
SPEED CONTROL SERVO
The servo unit consists of a solenoid valve body, and a vacuum chamber. The PCM controls the solenoid valve body. The solenoid valve body controls the application and release of vacuum to the diaphragm of the vacuum servo. The servo unit cannot be repaired and is serviced only as a complete assembly.
SPEED CONTROL SWITCHES
Fig. 2 Speed Control System
There are two separate switch pods that operate the speed control system.
The steering-wheelmounted switches use multiplexed circuits to provide inputs to the PCM for ON, OFF, RESUME/ACCEL-
ERATE, SET/COAST and CANCEL modes. Refer to the owner’s manual for more information on speed control switch functions and setting procedures.
When speed control is selected by depressing the
ON switch, the PCM allows a set speed to be stored in RAM for speed control. To store a set speed, depress the COAST/SET switch while the vehicle is moving at a speed between 30 and 85 mph. In order for the speed control to engage, the brakes cannot be applied, nor can the gear selector be indicating the transmission is in Park or Neutral.
The speed control can be disengaged manually by:
• Stepping on the brake pedal
• Depressing the OFF switch
• Depressing the CANCEL switch.
The speed control can be disengaged also by any of the following conditions:
• An indication of Park or Neutral
• The VSS signal increases at a rate of 10 mph per second (indicates that the co-efficient of friction between the road surface and tires is extremely low)
• An rpm increase without a VSS signal increase
(indicates that the clutch has been disengaged)
•
Excessive engine rpm (indicates that the transmission may be in a low gear)
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VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM 8H - 3
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)
• The VSS signal decreases at a rate of 10 mph per second (indicates that the vehicle may have decelerated at an extremely high rate)
• If the actual speed is not within 20 mph of the set speed
The previous disengagement conditions are programmed for added safety.
Once the speed control has been disengaged, depressing the RES/ACCEL switch restores the vehicle to the target speed that was stored in the PCM’s
RAM.
avoid an inappropriate upshift. The upshift is also delayed for 0.5 seconds after reaching the 8 degrees throttle opening in anticipation that the driver might open the throttle enough to require THIRD gear.
This will avoid unnecessary and disturbing transmission cycling. If the automatic speed control RESUME feature is used after braking, the upshift is delayed until the set speed is achieved to reduce cycling and provide better response.
NOTE: Depressing the OFF switch will erase the set speed stored in the PCM’s RAM.
STOP LAMP SWITCH
Vehicles equipped with the speed control option use a dual function stop lamp switch. The switch is mounted in the same location as the conventional stop lamp switch, on the brake pedal mounting bracket under the instrument panel. The PCM monitors the state of the dual function stop lamp switch.
Refer to Group 5, Brakes for more information on stop lamp switch service and adjustment procedures.
If, while the speed control is engaged, the driver wishes to increase vehicle speed, the PCM is programmed for an acceleration feature. With the RES/
ACCEL switch held closed, the vehicle accelerates slowly to the desired speed. The new target speed is stored in the RAM when the RES/ACCEL switch is released. The PCM also has a “tap-up” feature in which vehicle speed increases at a rate of approximately 2 mph for each momentary switch activation of the RES/ACCEL switch.
The PCM also provides a means to decelerate without disengaging speed control. To decelerate from an existing recorded target speed, depress and hold the
SET/COAST switch until the desired speed is reached. Then release the switch. The ON and OFF switches operates two components: the PCM’s
ON/OFF input, and the battery voltage to the brake switch, which powers the speed control servo.
The individual switches cannot be repaired. If one switch fails, the entire switch module must be replaced.
SERVO CABLE
The speed control servo cable is connected between the speed control vacuum servo diaphragm and the throttle body control linkage. This cable causes the throttle control linkage to open or close the throttle valve in response to movement of the vacuum servo diaphragm.
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE
The speed control electronic control circuitry is integrated into the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM). The PCM is located in the engine compartment. The PCM speed control functions are monitored by the On-Board Diagnostics (OBD). All OBDsensed systems are monitored by the PCM. Each monitored circuit is assigned a Diagnostic Trouble
Code (DTC). The PCM will store a DTC in electronic memory for any failure it detects. See On-Board
Diagnostic Tests in this group for more information.
The PCM cannot be repaired and must be replaced if faulty.
AUTOMATIC SPEED CONTROL OVERSPEED
REDUCTION
Transmission control software includes an automatic speed control overspeed reduction feature. This maintains vehicle speed at the selected set point when descending a grade.
The Transmission Control Module (TCM) first senses that the speed control is set. If the set speed is exceeded by more than 4 mph (6.5 km/hr) and the throttle is closed, the TCM causes the transaxle to downshift to THIRD gear. After downshifting, the automatic speed control resumes normal operation.
To ensure that an upshift is appropriate after the set speed is reached, the TCM waits until the speed control system opens the throttle at least 8 degrees before upshifting to OVERDRIVE again.
If the driver applies the brakes, canceling automatic speed control operation with the transaxle still in THIRD gear, the TCM maintains this gear until the driver opens the throttle at least 8 degrees to
VACUUM RESERVOIR
The reservoir contains a one-way check valve to trap engine vacuum in the reservoir. When engine vacuum drops, as in climbing a grade while driving, the reservoir supplies the vacuum needed to maintain proper speed control operation. The vacuum reservoir cannot be repaired and must be replaced if faulty.
VEHICLE SPEED AND DISTANCE
The transmission control module supplies the road speed and distance traveled inputs to the PCM. From these inputs and the throttle position sensor input,
HOOD RELEASE DRIVER’S SIDE
8H - 4 VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM
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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued) the PCM determines when a deceleration condition occurs.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
ROAD TEST
Perform a vehicle road test to verify reports of speed control system malfunction. The road test should include attention to the speedometer. Speedometer operation should be smooth and without flutter at all speeds.
Flutter in the speedometer indicates a problem which might cause surging in the speed control system. The cause of any speedometer problems should be corrected before proceeding. Refer to Group 8E,
Instrument Panel and Gauges for speedometer diagnosis.
If a road test verifies an inoperative system, and the speedometer operates properly, check for:
• A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). If a flash lamp code 15, 34 or 77 exists at the Check Engine
Lamp (MIL), conduct tests per the Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures service manual.
• A misadjusted brake (stop) lamp switch. This could also cause an intermittent problem.
• Loose or corroded electrical connections at the servo. Corrosion should be removed from electrical terminals and a light coating of Mopar MultiPurpose
Grease, or equivalent, applied.
• Loose or leaking vacuum hoses or connections.
• Secure attachment at both ends of the speed control servo cable.
• Smooth operation of throttle linkage and throttle body air valve.
• Failed speed control servo. Do the servo vacuum test.
CAUTION: When test probing for voltage or continuity at electrical connectors, care must be taken not to damage connector, terminals or seals. If these components are damaged, intermittent or complete system failure may occur.
CHECKING FOR DIAGNOSTIC CODES
When trying to verify a speed control system electronic malfunction: Connect a DRB scan tool if available to the data link connector (Fig. 3). The connector is located at left side of the steering column, and at lower edge of the panel.
If a scan tool is not available, use the following procedure:
(1) With key inserted in ignition switch, cycle switch to ON position three times. On third cycle, leave switch in ON position.
(2) After switch has been cycled three times, observe MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (check engine) indicator on instrument cluster. If a diagnostic code is present, indicator will flash (blink) in a series which will show which diagnostic code is the problem. Example: A series of three flashes in rapid succession, a slight pause, then four flashes in rapid succession would indicate diagnostic code 34.
(3) A speed control malfunction may occur without either diagnostic code being indicated. If no diagnostic code appears or diagnostic code 15 or 34 is observed, refer to the appropriate flow chart.
Fig. 3 Data Link Connector Location
Refer to Group 25, for further information and useage of the DRB scan tool and a more complete list of
Diagnostic Trouble Code.
SPEED CONTROL ACCELERATES OR TAPS UP
BY ITSELF
Check for diagnostic trouble codes. If code 15 refer to the Powertrain Diagnostic Manual, if code 34 perform the following test:
(1) Conduct the speed control switch test on the
RESUME/ACCEL switch.
(2) If it fails, replace switch.
(3) If it passes, disconnect the 4 way connector at servo. Test continuity of pin 1 to ground to test for intermittent short. Wiggle wires while preforming test.
(4) If continuity to ground, repair wiring.
(5) If no continuity to ground, replace PCM.
SPEED CONTROL SLOWS DOWN BY ITSELF
Test vehicle speed sensor, refer to group 8E. If sensor fails replace sensor, if it passes perform the following test:
(1) Perform the speed control switch test on the
SET/COAST switch, if it fails replace switch.
(2) If the switch passes, conduct the vacuum supply test.
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM
SPEED CONTROL DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES
8H - 5
Diagnostic Trouble Code
15**
34*
Hex Code
23
OF
DRB Scan Tool Display Description of
Diagnostic Trouble
Code
No Vehicle Speed
Sensor Signal
No vehicle distance
(speed) sensor signal detected during road load conditions.
Speed Control
Solenoid Circuits
An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits.
or
56 MUX S/C Switch High Speed Control switch input above the maximum acceptable voltage.
55* or
57 MUX S/C Switch Low
N/A
Speed Control switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage.
Completion of fault code display on Check
Engine Lamp.
77 52 S/C Power Relay
Circuit
Malfunction detected with power feed to speed control servo solneids.
* Check Engine Lamp will not illuminate at all times if this Diagnostic Trouble Code was recorded. Cycle ignition key as described in manual and observe code flashed by Check Engine Lamp.
** Check Engine Lamp will illuminate during engine operation if this Diagnostic Trouble Code was recorded.
(3) If it passes, conduct the servo vacuum test. If it fails replace servo.
(4) If it passes, test continuity of pin 2 of harness connector to PCM pin 80 for intermittent open. Wiggle wires while performing this test. If no continuity to pin 80, repair harness for open.
(5) If no continuity, replace the PCM.
(3) If continuity is ok, perform continuity test from pin 1 of RESUME/ACCEL switch connector to ground. Check for intermittent short, wiggle wires while performing this test.
(4) If shorted, repair harness for short.
SPEED CONTROL WILL NOT RESUME-SETS
OK
Perform the speed control switch test on the
RESUME/ACCEL switch. If the switch fails replace switch.
(1) If switch passes, check continuity from
RESUME/ACCEL switch connector pin 1 to pin 31 of
40 way connector at PCM. Check for intermittent open circuit, wiggle wires while performing test.
(2) If intermittent open, repair circuit.
SPEED CONTROL WILL NOT SLOW DOWN
Check for diagnostic trouble codes. If code 34 or no code present, perform the following test:
(1) Conduct the speed control switch test on the resume SET/COAST.
(2) If it fails replace switch.
(3) If it passes use an ohmmeter to test continuity between pin 2 of SET/COAST switch connector and ground. Wiggle wires while preforming test. If no continuity repair circuit.
(4) If continuity, test continuity between pin 1 of
SET/COAST switch connector and pin 41 of the PCM
8H - 6 VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
40 way connector. Wiggle wires while preforming test. If no continuity, repair circuit.
(5) If continuity, disconnect the servo connector.
Test continuity from pin 2 of connector and ground to test for intermittent short. Wiggle wires while preforming test. If continuity repair circuit.
(6) If no continuity, conduct the servo vacuum test.
If it fails replace servo.
(7) If it passes, replace the PCM.
SPEED CONTROL ELECTRICAL TEST
Electronic speed control systems may be tested using two different methods. One involves use of a
DRB. If this test method is desired, refer to the Powertrain Diagnostic Test Procedures for charging and speed control system manual.
The other test method uses a volt/ohm meter. The volt/ohm meter method is described in the following tests.
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If any information is needed concerning wiring, refer to Group 8W, Wiring Diagrams (Fig. 4).
CAUTION: When test probing for voltage or continuity at electrical connectors, care must be taken not to damage connector, terminals, or seals. If these components are damaged, intermittent or complete system failure may occur.
When electrical connections are removed, corrosion should be removed from electrical terminals and a light coating of Mopar Multi-Purpose Grease, or equivalent, applied. Inspect connectors for damage terminals.
A poor connection can cause a complete or intermittent malfunction and is also the only connection in the circuit, that can not be tested. For this reason, a loose connection may be misdiagnosed as a component malfunction.
POWERTRAIN (EATX)
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM 8H - 7
Fig. 4 Speed Control Circuit
CONNECTORS
8H - 8 VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
OVERSHOOT/UNDERSHOOT ON SPEED CONTROL
SET
If the operator repeatedly presses and releases the set button with their foot off of the accelerator (a “lift foot set” to begin speed control operation), the vehicle may accelerate and exceed the desired set speed by up to 5 MPH (8 km/h) and then decelerate to less than the desired set speed before finally achieving the desired set speed.
The Speed Control has an adaptive strategy that compensates for vehicle-to-vehicle variations in speed control cable lengths. When the speed control is set with the vehicle operators foot off of the accelerator pedal, the speed control thinks there is excessive speed control cable slack and adapts. If the lift foot sets are continually used, the speed control overshoot/undershoot condition will develop.
To “unlearn” the overshoot/undershoot condition, the vehicle operator has to press and release the set button while maintaining the desired set speed with the accelerator pedal (not decelerating or accelerating), and then turn the cruise control switch to the
OFF position (or press the CANCEL button if equipped) after waiting 10 seconds. This procedure must be performed approximately 10–15 times to completely unlearn the overshoot/undershoot condition.
SERVO VACUUM TEST
(1) Turn ignition switch to the ON position without starting engine. Activate speed control ON switch.
(2) Disconnect the four-way electrical connector and the vacuum harness at the servo (Fig. 5).
(3) Connect a jumper wire from Pin 3 of the servo to Pin 3 of the wire connector.
(4) Ground Pins 2 and 4 in the servo. Do not connect pin 1.
(5) Connect a hand held vacuum pump to the vacuum nipple and apply 10 - 15 inches of vacuum.
(6) If servo pulls cables, replace servo.
(7) Ground Pin 1 on servo.
(8) Check that the throttle cable pulls in and holds as long as the vacuum pump is connected. After one minute, check if cable is still holding. If cable does not hold replace the servo.
(9) Disconnect jumper from pin 3. Cable should return to rest position. If not, replace servo.
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(10) Connect 4 way electrical connector and vacuum harness to servo.
Fig. 5 Servo Harness Connector
SPEED CONTROL SWITCH TEST
(1) Remove the ON/OFF and CANCEL speed control switch assembly and disconnect the two-way connector (Fig. 6).
Fig. 6 Speed Control Switch
(2) Using an ohmmeter, touch a lead to each pin.
The meter should read 22,848 to 22,351 ohms. Press the CANCEL button, the ohmmeter should read 0 to
0.5 ohms. Press the ON/OFF button, the ohmmeter should read 668 to 653 ohms. If the resistance does not fall within these values replace the switch.
(3) Remove the SET/RESUME speed control switch assembly and disconnect the two-way connector.
INDEX KEY 3/4 9
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DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
(4) Using an ohmmeter, touch a lead to each pin.
The meter should read no continuity. Press the SET button, the ohmmeter should read 1,978 to 2,022 ohms. Press the RESUME button, the ohmmeter should read 5,558 to 5,682 ohms. If the resistance do not fall within these values replace the switch.
STOP LAMP SWITCH TEST
(1) Remove the stop lamp switch refer to Stop
Switch Removal/Installation in this section. Disconnect connector from stop lamp switch (Fig. 7). Using an ohmmeter, switch continuity may be checked as follows:
BLACK DISTRIBUTION GRAY
POWERTRAIN CON-
TROL MODULE
VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM 8H - 9
ELECTRICAL TESTS AT POWERTRAIN CONTROL
MODULE
(1) Unplug 2 40-way connectors from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), (Fig. 8).
Fig. 7 Stop Lamp Wiring
(2) With switch plunger released, there should be continuity between Pin 5 and Pin 6.
(3) With switch plunger depressed, there should be continuity:
• Between Pin 1 and Pin 2.
• Between Pin 3 and Pin 4.
(4) If the above results are not obtained, the stop lamp switch is defective or out of adjustment.
(5) Stop lamp switch adjustment is detailed in
Group 5, Brakes.
Fig. 8 Powertrain Control Module Location
(2) Remove both steering wheel speed control switches and disconnect the wire connectors.
(a) Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between pin 41 of the PCM connector and pin 1 of each speed control switch connector (Fig. 9).
(b) If no continuity, repair as necessary.
(c) Using an ohmeter, check for continuity between pin 41 of the PCM connector and ground.
(d) If continuity, repair the short circuit.
(e) If no continuity, perform the Switch Test.
Fig. 9 PCM 40—Way Connectors
SERVO
8H - 10 VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)
(3) Place ignition switch in the ON position for the following tests.
(a) Connect wire connectors to both switches.
(b) Using a voltmeter, connect the ground lead to ground.
(c) Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to pin 5 on the PCM. Depress the ON switch, the voltmeter should read battery voltage. Depress
OFF switch, the voltmeter should read 0 volts. If no voltage, repair wire between pin 80 and pin 2 of the servo. If OK, go to step 4.
(d) Reconnect the BLACK connector (with pins
1–40) to PCM.
(e) Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter