Chrysler Dodge Dart GT 1969, Dodge Dart GTS 1969 Service Manual
The Chrysler Dodge Dart GTS 1969 is a high-performance muscle car that offers a thrilling driving experience. With its powerful engine and sleek design, the Dart GTS is sure to turn heads wherever it goes. Some of the key features of the Dart GTS include its 383 cubic inch V8 engine, which produces 335 horsepower and 425 lb-ft of torque. The Dart GTS also features a four-speed manual transmission, a heavy-duty suspension, and power brakes. With its combination of power, handling, and style, the Dart GTS is a true classic muscle car.
Advertisement
Advertisement
MyMopar.com
MyMopar.com
2
INTRODUCTION AND GENERAL INFORMATION
0
LICENSE DATA
The following method their engines will be used of numbering vehicles and on the 1969 models.
The starting vehicle number will be as follows:
Dart Series
Coronet Series
Charger
Dart Models
LL41A9B-100001
Coronet Models
WE21B9A-100001
Charger
XP29F9G-100001
VEHICLE NUMBER LOCATION
The vehicle number (serial number) is located on a plate which is attached to the left top side of the dash panel pad and visible through the windshield (Fig. 1).
VEHICLE NUMBERS
All vehicle numbers contain 13 digits. The vehicle number is a code which tells the make of car (1st digit), model of car (2nd digit), body style (3rd and
4th digit), engine displacement (5th digit), model year (6th digit), assembly plant (7th digit) and vehicle serial number (last
six
digits).
1st Digit 2nd Digit 3rd & 4th Digit
Car Make Model Body Style
L-Dart
W-Coronet
E-Economy
L-Low
M-Medium
H-H igh
P-Premium
X-Charger K-Police
T-Taxi
S-Special
W u p e r Stock
X-Fast TOD
21-2 Door Sedan
23-2 Door Hardtop
27-Converti ble
29-Charger
4 1 - 4 Door Sedan
43-4 Door Hardtop
4 5 6 Pass. Sta. Wgn.
46-9 Pass. Sta. Wgn.
5th Digit
Engine Ident.
Displacement
6th Digit
Year
1969
7th Digit
Assembly Plant
A-170 Cu.
EL225 Cu.
C-Spec. (6cyl.) K-440 Cu.
0-273 Cu.
F-318 Cu.
In.
In.
In.
In.
H-383
5-426
Cu.
Cu.
Std.L-440 Cu.
Std. M-Spec.
G-383 Cu. In. Std.P-340 Cu.
In.
In.
In.
In.
(8
In.
H.P. &Lynch Road
HemiB-Hamtramck
Std. C-Jefferson
H.P. D-Belvidere cyl.) E-Los Angeles
H.P. F-Newark
U t . Louis
P-Wy o m i n g
(Export)
R-W i ndsor
BODY NUMBER LOCATION: wheel house and will show
TIRE PRESSURE:
The body body type and schedule date. (Fig. 2) number
is
stamped on a plate which is attached to the left front trim code, paint code,
A decal showing the recommended tire pressure is located on the body pillar at the rear of the left front door opening.
Group 22 Specifications.) l o
O I
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER PLATE
INSTRUMENT PANEL LOCATED NR464
1
I
I
I
(!!#El
I 1 I I
VIN NUMBER
I
I
NU467
Fig. I-Vehicle Number Location Fig. 2-Body Number Location
All
information, illustrations and specifications in this manual are based on information available at the time of publication. We reserve the right to make changes at any time without notice.
MyMopar.com
0
GROUP 0
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
CONTENTS
ALTERNATOR
BATTERY
BODY MAINTENANCE
BRAKES
COOLING SYSTEM
.....................
11
CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM
....
Page
11
.............................
11
..............................
CAPACITIES
.........................
..........................
CARBURETOR AIR CLEANERS
CARBURETOR CHOKE SHAFT
CERTIFIED CAR CARE
CHASSIS LUBRICATION
CLASSIFICATION
DISTRIBUTORS
OF
CLUTCH LINKAGE
..................
. . . . . . . . . .
..........
.................
...............
LUBRICANTS
..................
ENGINE OIL-SELECTION OF
ENGINE PERFORMANCE EVALUATION
25
9
5
17
19
1
6
......
1
.....................
10
.......................
11
ENGINE OIL FILTERS
..........
14
14
12
. .
17
FREQUENCY OF OIL CHANGES
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
FUEL FILTERS
HEADLIGHTS
H OlSTl N G
.........
.............
........................
.........................
13
23
19
12
............................
6
HOOD LOCK, RELEASE MECHANISM
AND SAFETY CATCH
................
25
HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM
Dart, Coronet and Charger
8 Cylinder Models
....................
PARKING BRAKE MECHANISM
Page
..........
9
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE
.........................
Normal Service
4
......................
4
Trailer Towing and Severe Service
......
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE CHART
5
Dart and Coronet 6 Cylinder Models
MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVES
. . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . .
2
3
....
17
MATERIALS ADDED TO ENGINE OILS..
PARTS REQUIRING NO LUBRICATION
..
.........
10
..
13
29
PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL
JOINTS
.............................
REAR AXLE
20
...........................
8
SPE ED0 M ETER CABLE
STEERING GEAR
................
24
......................
20
SUMMARY OF LUBRICATION AND
MA1 NTE N A N C E SERVICES
THROTTLE LINKAGES
TIRES
.................
................................
TRANS M I N (Auto matic)
TRANSMISSION (Manual)
............
..............
WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADES
...........
..........
1
28
24
22
21
12
2 m
CERTIFIED CAR CARE
Certified Car Care is a thorough servicing program that helps make sure the cars you sell receive the regular attention you know they need.
Certified Car Care helps build business for you in the best way known-through customer satisfaction.
Inform your customers that the best approach to trouble-free driving is Certified Car Care.
This is a practical plan to help you build up sales and service volume, by providing regular service cus- tomer visits. maintanance service on a time frequency as well as mileage interval basis.
Information pertaining to Lubrication and Main- tenance requirements is shown on charts (Figs. 1 and
2) and on the Schedule.
Vehicles operated under conditions not classified as normal service for passenger cars, such as in trailer towing service, operation at higher than normal load- ing, or police or taxicab operation, require servicing at more frequent intervals. This information is in- cluded in each group under the heading “Trailer
Towing, Package and Severe Service”.
CLASS1 Fl CAT10 N OF LU BR ICANTS SUMMARY OF LUBRICATION AND
MA1 NTENANCE SERVICES
Maintenance and lubrication service recommenda- tions for Chrysler Corporation-built Dodge cars have been compiled to provide maximum protection for the car owner’s investment against all reasonable types of driving conditions.
Since these conditions vary with the individual car owner’s driving habits, the area in which the car is operated and the type of service to which the car is subjected, it is necessary to prescribe lubrication and
Oils, lubricants and greases are classified and graded according to standards recommended by the
Society of Automotive Engineers
(SAE),
Petroleum Institute (API) and the National Lubricat- ing Grease Institute (NLGI).
Engine Oil
The SAE grade number indicates the Viscosity of engine oils, for example, SAE 30, which is a single grade oil, Engine oils are also identified by a dual
MyMopar.com
0-2
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
Power Steering Pump
-
@)
Check fluid level every oil
PSF change.
Battery
@
Check electrolyte level.
Fuel Filter
@
Replace.
. -.. -. _.
I tngine
UII U l p S t l C K
-
-- e u
Check level at refueling.
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE CHART
NORMAL SERVICE
DART and CORONET
6-CYLINDER MODELS
Oil Filler Cap
-
EO
%
Carburetor Air Cleaner (Dry)
Clean filter element.
Replace filter element.
Carburetor Air Cleaner (Oil Bath)
-
EO
Check sediment level every 2nd oil change.
8
Carburetor Choke Shaft and Cam
@
0
Apply solvent.
Manifold Heat Control Valve oil change.
-
S
Apply solvent to shaft ends ever
-
C
-
MP or SGL
@
Manual Steering Gear
Check lubricantlevel.
Column Mounted Transmission Gearshift
Controls
-
MPG (2-EP) or MML
Lubricate contact surfaces, as
Q
Brake Master Cylinder
-
HTF
@
Check fluid level.
Front Suspension Ball Joinh
Steering Linkage Ball Joints inspect seals for leakage.
-
MML
-
MML
8
Clutch Torque Shaft Bearings
MPG (2-EP) or MML
Remove and lubricate. Refer to procedure.
@
Q
Clutch Drive Lugs, Bearing and Pivot
-
MML lubricate contact surfaces,
Refer to procedure.
Q
Floor-Mounted Transmission
Gearshift Controls
-
EO
Apply ljght engine oil to contacl mechanism, as required.
CAPACITIES
See Capacities Chart.
FREQUENCY SYMBOLS
2 Months
3 Months or 4,000 Miles
6 Months
12 Months or 12,000 Miles
24 Months or 24,000 Miles
36 Months or 36,000 Miles
As specified.
II II I v
Position for lift adapter
A Prepacked bearing
0
Cooling system drain
Crankcase
-
EO
3 Drain and refill.
See Viscosity Recommendations.
Distributor Oil Cup
-
EO
Distributor Rotor Felt Wick
-
EO
Apply 1 drop when servicing contacts.
Distributor Cam and Rubbing Block
-
DCL
Engine Performance Evaluation
Evaluate performance.
Front Brake Assemblies and Wheel
Bearings
-
MPG (2-EP) or MML inspect linings, bearings and lubricant.
Manual Transmission
'Universal Joints
-
AA or MP
Check fluid level.
-
MPG (2-EP) or MML
Inspect seals for leakage. Refer to procedure.
Rear Axles- GL or HL
Check fluid level.
Body Mechanisms
-
See Body
(r> Maintenance.
TIRE PRESSURES
Shawn an decal on body pillar, leftside.
See "Tires," Group 22 for additional infarmation.
KEY TO LUBRICANTS Part No.*
AA Automatic Transmission
CC
Fluid, AQ-ATF, Suffix "A" 1843314
Carburetor Cleaner 2933500
1473595 DCL Cam lubricant
EO Engine Oil
GL Gear Lubricant (Drum)
(All Standard Axles)
2585317
HL Hypoid lubricant (Qt.) 2933565
(7
'/a and 8 %
"
Sure-Grip und
Standard)
*
HTF High Temperature
Brake Fluid 2421 352
MML Multi-Mileage Lubricant 2525035
MP Multi-Purpose Gear
Lubricant
MPG Multi-Purpose
(2-EP) Grease, NLGl Grade 2 EP
PSF Power Steering Fluid
S Manifold Heat Control
2084329
Valve Solvent 2525054
*See Alternate Specifications In
Individual Paragraphs.
0
NR233A
fig. I-Lubrication Chart
MyMopar.com
0
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
6.3
Power Steering Pump
-
PSF
Check fluid level every oil chon
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE CHART
NORMAL SERVICE
DART, CORONET and CHARGE
8-CYLINDER MODELS
Engine Coolant
Check level and/or ant i-f reeze.
Engine Oil Dipstick
-
EO
Check level at refueling.
Fuel Filter
Replace.
Crankcase
-
E
Drain and refil
Manual Steering Gear
Check lubricant level.
-
MP or SGL
Column Mounted Transmission Gearshift
Controls
-
MPG (2-EP) or MML
Lubricate contact surfaces, as required.
Brake Master Cylinder
-
HTF
Check fluid level.
Carburetor Air Cleaner (Dry)**
Clean filter element.
Replace filter element.
Carburetor Air Cleaner (Oil Bath)
-
EO
Check sediment level every 2nd oil change.
Clean every 12 months,
Carburetor Choke Shaft and Cam
Apply solvent.
-
CC
Manifold Heat Control Valve
-
S
Apply solvent to shaft ends every oil change.
Brake Pedal Linkage Bushings
MPG (2-EP) or MML
Remove and lubricate. Refer to procedure.
Distributor Cam and Rubbing Block
-
Lubricate when servicing contacts.
Distributor Rotor Felt Wick
Apply 1 drop when servicing
-
EO contacts.
Distributor Oil Cup
-
EO
Apply 3 to 5 drops in cup.
Front Suspension Ball Joints
Steering Linkage Ball Joints
Inspect seals for leakage.
-
MML
-
MML
Relubricate.
Clutch Torque Shaft Bearings
MPG (2-EP) or MML
Remove and lubricate. Refer to procedure.
Clutch Drive Lugs, Bearing Sleeve, Fork and Pivot
-
MML
Lubricate contact surfaces, as required.
Refer to procedure.
Engine Oil Filter
Replace every 2nd oil change.
Crankcase Ventilation System
Inspect and service. Refer to procedure.
Engine Performance Evaluation
'
Evaluate performance.
\'-Automatic Transmission
@
Check fluid level.
-
AA
Front Brake Assemblies and Wheel
Bearings
-
MPG (2-EP) or MML
@
Inspect linings, bearings and lubricant.
Manual Transmission
-
AA or MP
Check fluid level.
Rear Axles
- or MP/SGL
Check fluid level.
Body Mechanisms
@
Maintenance.
-
See Body
*For 426 Hemi Engine, See Lubrication
Group.
Floor-Mounted Transmission
Gearshift Controls
-
EO
Apply light engine oil to c mechanism, as required.
Universal Joints
-
MPG (2-EP) or MML
Inspect seals for leakage. Refer to procedure.
CAPACITIES See Capacities Chart.
Shown on decal on body pillar, leftside.
See "Tires," Group 22 for additional
FREQUENCY SYMBOLS
2 Months
3 Months or 4,000 Miles
6 Months
24 Months or 24,000 Miles
36 Months or 36,000 Miles
Position for lift adapter
A Prepacked bearing
0 Cooling system drain
'Fresh Air Induction System
Clean filter element every oil change.
Replace element every 12 months.
KEY TO LUBRICANTS Part No.*
AA Automatic Transmission
Fluid, AQ-ATF, Suffix "A" 1843314
CC
DCL
Carburetor Cleaner
Cam Lubricant
EO Engine Oil
GL Gear Lubricant (Drum)
(All Standard Axles)
2933500
1473595
2585317
HL Hypoid Lubricant (Qt.1 2933565
(7
'14 " and 8 %
"
Sure-Grip and
Standard Axles)*
SGL Sure-Grip Lubricant
( 9 l/4
"
Sure-Grip)
258531 8
HTF High Temperature
Brake Fluid 242 1352
MML Multi-Mileage Lubricant 2525035
M P Multi-Purpose Gear
Lubricant
MPG Multi-Purpose
(2-EP) Grease, NLGl Grade 2 EP
PSF Power Steering Fluid
S Manifold Heat Control
Valve Solvent
2084329
2525054
*See Alternate Specifications In
Individual Paragraphs.
NR234A
Fig. 2-Lubriccrtion Chart
MyMopar.com
0-4
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
LUBRICATION A N D MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
SERVl CE
INTERVAL
3 Months or 4,000 Miles, whichever occurs first
Every Engine
Oil Change
Every Second Oil Change
ITEM
Engine Crankcase Oil
Manifold Heat Control Valve
Power Steering Fluid
Carburetor Air Filter-Paper**
Engine Oil Filter
Tire Rotation
Carburetor Air F i l t e r a i l Bath
Carburetor Air Filter-Paper
Crankcase Ventilation System
Carburetor Choke Shaft
0
PAGE Replace Check Inspect Lubricate Sewicr
Fluid and/or
Level Clean
12 X
X 16
121
17
13
23
18
17
14
19
I
X
I x I I
X
X
X
X
I
X
X
X
X
Every 6 Months
Floor-Mounted Gear- shift Controls
Parking Brake Mechanism
Speedometer Cable
Points That Should Not Be Lubricated
21
9
24
30
X
X
X
MyMopar.com
0
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0-5
SERVICE
INTERNAL
Every 3 months or 4,000
Miles, whichever occurs first
After first 36 months or 36,OOO Miles, which- ever occurs first
-
L U B R I C A T I O N
AND
M A I N T E N A N C E SCHEDULE
TRAILER T O W I N G P A C K A G E
AND
SEVERE SERVICE
ITEM
Transmission
Rear Axle
Universal Joints
*Transmission Fluid
Rear Axle Lubricant
Check Inspect
PAGE Replace Fluid and/or lubricate Service level Clean
23
9
20
X
X
X
9 X
CAPACITIES
us.
Measure
Crankcase
(Except 426 Hemi Engine)
(426 Hemi Engine)
Add 1 when filter is replaced.
........................
..............................
Cooling System
Dart (170 Cu. In. Engine)
Dart, Coronet, Charger (225 Cu. In. Engine)
Coronet, Charger (Police 225 Cu. In. Engine)
Dart (273 Cu. In Engine)
Dart (318 Cu. In. Engine)
.........................
..........................
.........................
Coronet, Charger (318 Cu. In. Engine)
Coronet, Charger (Police, Taxi 318 Cu. In. Engine)
Dart (340, 383 Cu. In. Engine)
........
.......
..............
.....................
Coronet, Charger (2 or 4 BBL 383 Cu. In. Engine)
Coronet, Charger (Police 2 or 4 BBL 383 Cu. in. Engine)
....................................
Coronet, Charger (440 Cu. In. HP Engine)
Automatic Transmission
Manual Transmission
........................
..........................
Coronet, Charger (426 Cu. In. Engine)
. .
...
..............
Rear Axle
7-114" Axle
8-314" Axle
9-314" Axle
.....................................
.....................................
.....................................
Transmission (Torqueflitel
170,225,273,318,340 and 383 4 BBL. Cu. In. Engines
383 2 BBL. and 440 Cu. In. Engines
426 Cu. In. Engine
All Police and Taxi
................
...............................
..............................
Transmission (Manual)
3-Speed Model A-903 6 Cyl.
>Speed Model A-745 8 Cyl. (6 Cyl. Police and Taxi)
4-Speed Model A-833 (Dart)
.......................
.......................
(Coronet and Charger)
. .
.......
Fuel Tank
Dart (All)
Coronet and Charger (All)
........................
For Maximum Cooling or Air Conditioning
*Add 1 qt. (314 Imperial qt.)
**Add 2 qts. (1314 Imperial qts.)
***Add 3 qts. (2-1/2 Imperial qts.)
4 qts.
6 qts.
12 qts.**
13 qts.**
13 qts.**
17 qts.**
16 qts.**
16 qts.***
19 qts.
16 qts.
16 qts.*
17 qts.
17 qts.*
18 qts.
18 qts.
2 pts.
4 pts.
5-112 pts.
15112 pts.
18-112 pts.
16 pts.
18-112 pts.
6-112 pts.
6 pts.
7 pts.
7-112 pts.
18 gals.
19 gals.
Imperial
Measure
3-114 qts.
5 qts.
10 qts.**
10-314 qtS.**
10-3/4 qts.**
14-114 qtS.**
13-114 qts.**
13-114 qts.**
15-314 qts.
13-114 qts.
13-114 qts,*
14-114 qts.
14-114 qts.*
15 qts.
15 qts.
1314 pts.
3-114 pts.
4-112 pts.
13 pts.
15112 pts.
13-114 pts.
15112 pts.
5112 pts.
5 pts.
5-314 pts.
6-114 pts.
15 gals.
15314 gals.
MyMopar.com
0-6
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
number, for example, SAE 1OW-30, multigrade oil.
The API classification system defines oil perform- ance in terms of engine usage. Only engine oils desig- nated "For Service MS" should be used. These oils contain sufficient chemical additives to provide maxi- mum engine protection. Both the SAE grade and the
API designation must be found on the container.
Gear Lubricants
The SAE grade number also indicates the viscosity of Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricants, defined by
MILL
2105B. is SAE 75, which is a light viscos- ity lubricant. determining that the adapter plates will make firm contact with the lower control arms and the rear axle housing.
Floor
A
Jack regular floor jack may be used under axle housing, the rear or under the front suspension lower control arms, however, a floor iack must never be used on any parts of the underbody.
CAUTION: not attempt to raise one entire side of the vehicle by placing a jack midway between the front and rear wheels. This practice may result in permanent damage to the body.
Lubricants-Greases
Semi-solid lubricants, such as specified for propeller shaft universal joints, bear the NLGI designation.
They are further classified as grades or "2."
Bumper Jack
The bumpers are designed to accept a bumper jack in an emergency, if it becomes necessary to change a tire on the road. Notches are provided in the bumpers for the purpose of raising the vehicle with the bumper jack.
HOISTING
CHASSIS LUBRICATION
Post Type
Special care should be taken when raising the ve- hicle on a frame contact type hoist. The hoist must be equipped with the proper adapters in order that the vehicle will be supported in the correct locations
(Figs. 3 and 4).
Conventional hydraulic hoists may be used after
Front Suspension Ball Joints
The front suspension ball joints (Figs. 5 and 6) are semi-permanently lubricated with a special lubricant at the factory.
The ball joints should be inspected every six months, or whenever vehicle is serviced for other
7
20 SQ." MINIMUM c
32.7"
-
--I-""--i
16.2" -Z.~~I
1
rDe7"---
LIMITS SATISFACTORY
FOUR PADS
.
ALL MODELS 11 1"
L
N N l 9 l B
MyMopar.com
0
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0-7
I 'C
19"-
I _ _ _ _
9 -
PAD POSITION WITHIN
THESE LIMITS
SATISFACTORY
20 SQ." MINIMUM 1
ALL MODELS 116.5"
FRONT WHEELS REA
WHEELS
NN192B reasons, for damage to the seals which can result in loss or contamination of lubricant. Clean accumulated dirt and lubricant from outside surface of seals to permit thorough inspection. Replace damaged seals or joints immediately to prevent contamination of lubricant or damage to parts. Lubricate ball joints, if necessary.
BALL JOINTS ARE DESIGNATED TO OPERATE
WITH SOME FREE PLAY. REPLACEMENT SHOULD
SION", Group 2.
Fig. 4-Support Locations-Frame Contact Hoist (Coronet and Charger Models)
When lubricating control arm ball joints, use only the special longlife chassis greases such as Multi-
Mileage Lubricant, Part Number 2525035, intended for this purpose. Remove threaded plug from each ball joint and temporarily install lubrication fittings.
Inject lubricant until it flows freely from seal bleed areas at base of seal. Stop when seal begins to bal- loon. Remove fittings and reinstall threaded plugs.
CAUTION: If high pressure lubrication equipment i s used, stop filling when lubricant begins t o flow
BE MADE ONLY WHEN FREE PLAY EXCEEDS THE
SPECIFICATIONS SHOWN IN "FRONT SUSPEN-
Relubrication is required every 36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
NR77
Fig. +Upper and Lower Ball Joints (Dart Models) t
P r
Fig. 6-Upper and Lower Boll Joints
(Coronet and Charger Models)
MyMopar.com
0-8
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0
TINGS freely from b l e d area at base or at top of seal, or if seal begins to balloon.
.-
Steering Linkage Ball Joints
The four tie rod end ball joints and the steering gear arm ball joint (Figs. 7 and 8) are semi-perma- nently lubricated with a special lubricant at the factory
.
The ball joints should be inspected every six months, or whenever vehicle is serviced for other reasons, for damage to seals which can result in loss of lubricant. Clean accumulated dirt and lubricant from outside surfaces of seals to permit thorough in- spection.
Replace damaged seals or joints immediately to prevent contamination of the lubricant or failure of parts. Lubricate ball joints, if necessary.
Relubrication of tie rod ball joints is required every
36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
When lubricating steering linkage ball joints, use only the special long-life chassis greases such as
Multi-Mileage Lubricant Part Number 2525035, in- tended for this purpose. Remove threaded plug from each ball joint and temporarily install lubrication fit- tings. Inject lubricant until it flows freely from seal bleed area at top or base of seal. Stop when seal be- gins to balloon. Remove fittings and reinstall threaded plugs.
CAUTION: High pressure lubrication equipment may be used if time is allowed for grease to bleed from seal base.
REAR AXLE
Standard and Sure-Grip
The lubricant installed in the rear axle at time of assembly is a high quality product and regularly scheduled changes of the lubricant are not recom- mended in vehicles where operation is classified as normal passenger car service.
The only exceptions, however, would be where the lubricant has become contaminated with water, or in the case of the standard rear axle, to provide the correct viscosity grade for the anticipated tem- perature range, as indicated by the accompanying table.
NN186B
STEERING GEAR ARM BALL
FITTING
I
TIE ROD END FITTINGS'
Fig. 8-Steering Linkage (Coronet and
Charger Models)
The factory fill lubricant is satisfactory to 430°F. ambients.
Anticipated Temperature Viscosity Grade
Range
Above
As low
Below as
-10" F.
3 0 "
-30" F.
SAE 90
SAE 80
SAE 75
If necessary to change lubricant in or 8-3/4 inch axle remove old lubricant with suction pump through filler plug hole (Figs. 9 10).
For 9-3/4 bottom of the axle housing (Fig. 11).
Every six months check the fluid level in the axle through the filler plug hole. When checking the level, be sure the vehicle is in a level position, on an axle or drive-on type hoist, and the fluid level is as indi- cated in the accompanying chart.
Multi purpose Gear Lubricant, as defined by MIC differentials; Chrysler Gear Lubricant part number
2933565 are oils of this type, and are recommended.
In Sure-Grip axles, use only the special Multi pur- pose Lubricants intended for use in Limited Slip Dif- ferentials. Such Lubricants are available under the
I'
FITTINGS NK556B
Fig. 7-Steering Linkage (Dart Models)
4
ND 78
Fig. 9-Removing Rear Axle Lubriccmnt
(7-1 / 4 Inch Axle)
MyMopar.com
0
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0-9
AXLE
IDENTIFICATION CHART
Axle
Size
Filler location
Cover
Fastening
Capacity
Pints
7-1/4
8-314
*9-314
Cover 9 Bolts
Carrier-Right Side Welded
Cover 10 Bolts
2.0
4.0
5.5
*Used only with 426 Cu. In. Engine and 4 Speed Manual Transmission. lubrication level
Between Bottom of Filler Hole
To 518 inch below
To
To inch below inch below part numbers shown below for the axles indicated.
Chrysler Hypoid Lubricant, part number 2933565 for 7-1/4 inch Sure-Grip differentials.*
Chrysler Sure-Grip Lubricant, part number 2585318 for 9-3/4
*7-1/4 inch Sure-Grip differentials iden- tified by a round or rectangular shaped tag on the axle carrier stating “Use Limited Slip Lubricant
Only” require Special Sure-Grip lubricant, part num- ber 2585318.
T r a i l e r T o w i n g S e r v i c e
For vehicles equipped for trailer towing service, the axle fluid level should be checked every 3 months or
4,000 miles, whichever occurs first. The lubricant should be drained and axle refilled with the specified lubricant, every 36 months or 36,000 occurs first.
If the axle is submerged in water, such as on a boat launching ramp where water can enter the axle vent, and contamination is suspected or evident, replace the lubricant immediately to avoid early axle failure. brake adjustments.
Inspect brake linings for wear every 12 months or
12,000 miles, whichever occurs first. Replace linings, if necessary. At this time, lubricate contact areas of brake shoe supports, on models with drum brakes, with a very thin film of high-temperature lubricant such as Chrysler Support Plate Lubricant available under Part Number 2932524.
To perform this service, first remove the brake shoes. Next, clean the contact surfaces on the shoes and supports by sanding lightly with fine sandpaper.
Then, carefully apply lubricant.
On models equipped with disc brakes, inspect the discs, calipers and linings every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first, as outlined under
“Brakes”, Group 5.
HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM
BRAKES
The brakes on all models equipped with drum brakes, except police cars, taxicabs, vehicles equipped with high-performance engines and trailer towing package, are equipped with a self-adjusting mech- anism which makes it unnecessary to perform major
Every six months, check fluid level in both reser- voirs of master cylinder by removing screw, clamp and cover, or bail and cover, depending upon method of securing cover (Fig. 12). Level should be within one-quarter inch of top of reservoir. Avoid damaging cover gasket.
CAUTION: Before removing master cylinder cover, wipe it clean to prevent dirt and other foreign mat- ter from dromina into reservoir.
I .
-
Fig. IO-Removing Rear Axle lubricant
(8-314 Inch Axle)
Fig. I-Drain and filler Plug Locations
(9-314 Inch Axle)-
NP157A
MyMopar.com
0-10 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
-1
I
\
0
Fig. 13-Wand-Operated Parking Brake
(Dart Models)
CLUTCH LINKAGE
Fig. 12-Brake Master Cylinder
If fluid is below prescribed level, replenish with
Heavy Duty Hydraulic Brake Fluid, conforming to
SAE 70R3, for best brake performance and greater safety. Such a fluid, Hi-Temp Brake Fluid, is available under Part Number 2421352.
Brake Hoses
Inspect brake hoses for cracking, abrasions, cuts or tears in outer covering. Examine all connections for fluid leakage and correct, or replace, where necessary.
Pedal Pivot Bushings
The plastic bushings at the upper end of the brake pedal should be serviced every 24 months or 24,000 miles, whichever occurs first, or at time of major brake service. The bushings, located on the brake pedal pivot on all models and on the lower linkage pivots on Coronet and Charger models equipped with power brakes, should be removed, thoroughly cleaned and relubricated with a multi-purpose grease such as Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number 2525035.
Clutch Torque Shaff Bearings
Inspect clutch torque shaft bearings (Fig. 15) for wear and relubricate every 36 months or 36,000 whichever occurs first. To perform this service, refer to “Clutch,” Group 6. After removing torque shaft assembly, disassemble and thoroughly clean all parts in a suitable solvent and inspect for wear. Damaged bearings and/or ball studs should be replaced.
When reassembling shaft, coat inside surfaces at ends of shaft, inside and outside surfaces of bearings and ball studs with Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part
Number 2525035, of Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI grade 2 EP.
Clutch Drive Lugs, Release Bearing Sleeve,
Release Fork and Fork Pivot
Whenever effort required to depress clutch pedal becomes excessive, or when servicing clutch torque shaft bearings, lubricate drive lugs, sleeve, fork and pivot (Fig. 15). To gain access to this area, first re-
PARKING BRAKE MECHANISM
Dart Models use a hand-operated parking brake lever (Fig. 13). Coronet and Charger models use a foot-operated lever (Fig. 14).
Pivot points indicated should be lubricated, as re- quired, to maintain ease of operation. Apply a film of smooth, white body hardware lubricant conform- ing to NLGI grade 1. Lubriplate, Part Number
1064768, is a type of lubricant recommended for this purpose.
When the hand lever can be pulled to more than four inches, or the foot pedal depressed more than four and one half inches, the brake cable should be adjusted. For adjusting procedure, refer to “Parking
Brakes,” Group 5.
Fig. 14-Foot-Oper~ed Parking Brake
(Coronet and Charger Moddsl
NN563
MyMopar.com
A
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0-11
BEARING
PIVOT ‘ NH172C
Fig. 15-Clutch Torque Shaf? Bearings and linkage move inspection plate at bottom of clutch housing.
CAUTION: Care must be taken to avoid getting Iubri- cant on clutch disc and/or pressure plate.
Fill cavity in sleeve with Multi-Mileage Lubricant,
Part Number 2525035 or equivalent. Apply a film of same lubricant to clutch drive lugs, clutch release fork pads on sleeve, contact areas of fork fingers, pivot contact area of fork and fork pivot (Fig. 15).
COOLING SYSTEM
The cooling system of all cars is protected against corrosion and freezing as they leave the factory. A permanent type anti-freeze is added to provide pro- tection to -20°F. Higher percentages of anti-freeze must be added where temperatures below -20°F. are anticipated.
All engines, except the 170 cubic inch engine, are equipped with 190 degree thermostats. The 170 cubic inch is provided with a 200 degree thermostat and only permanent type anti-freeze should be used. Alco- hol base anti-freeze products should not be used be- cause of their low boiling points.
Inspect coolant level every two months and refill as necessary. Once a year, preferably in the fall, the cooling system should be drained and refilled. This draining and refilling procedure, however, need not be performed until the fall following the vehicle’s first full year of operation. Drain V-8 engine cooling system by removing drain plugs in sides of cylinder block and opening drain cock in lower radiator tank.
On 6cylinder engines, remove the single drain plug in right side of engine and open drain cock in lower radiator tank. Discard old solutions.
Flush the system thoroughly with water. If there is an indication that the system contains a considerable amount of sediment, use a reliable cooling system cleaner to loosen the sediment. Rinse thoroughly to remove deposits.
At this time, check water pump belt tension and check hose connections for tightness.
In areas where protection from freezing is required, refill cooling system with clean, soft water and a suit- able high quality, permanent type anti-freeze, in suf- ficient quantity to provide full protection for the low- est anticipated temperature, but never less than 40 percent of the cooling system capacity to ensure ade- quate protection against corrosion. If it becomes necessary to add coolant during the cold weather season, be sure the system contains sufficient anti- freeze to provide protection at least to -20 degrees
F. A suitable high quality permanent type anti-freeze is available under Part Number 1316209.
When vehicle is operated in areas where protection from freezing is not required, and vehicle is not equipped with air conditioning, refill cooling system with clean, soft water and add a high quality corrosion inhibitor, such as Chrysler Rust Resistor, Part Num- ber 2421778. This need not be done until the yearly service. first
If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, the cooling system must contain anti-freeze all year round. This is necessary because in the reheat-cycle system used on all vehicles, except Dart models, cold, refrigerated air passes through the heater core.
Anti-freeze is necessary to prevent coolant in the heater core from freezing in hot weather when the air conditioner is being used. For complete informa- tion refer to “Air Conditioning”, Group 24.
ALTERNATOR
The alternator is provided with prelubricated bear- ings, which require no periodic lubrication.
BATTERY
Every two months, or more often in hot weather and on long trips, check fluid level of cells. Restore level to 3/8 inch above plates, using only water of a known low mineral content. Do not overfill.
Check specific gravity, using a reliable hydrometer, every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first, or more often if there is excessive use of water.
Clean battery posts and cable terminals and tighten terminals. Coat connections with light mineral grease or petrolatum.
Refer to “Electrical,” Group 8, for complete serv- icing.
D
I
STR I B UT0 RS
Two types of distributors are used. One type (with double breaker points) is provided with an oil cup.
When servicing breaker points apply 3 to 5 drops of light engine oil in the cup.
Distributors without the oil cup have permanent lubrication and no periodic lubrication is required.
Whenever breaker points are serviced, lubricate
MyMopar.com
0-12
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0 cam surfaces. Wipe old lubricant from c a m and rub- bing block (Fig. 16) and apply a thin film of Cam
Lubricant, Part Number 1473595, or equivalent. At this time, apply 1 drop of light engine oil to felt wick under rotor.
CAUTION: Avoid oversiling and applying an excet rive amount of cam lubricant to prevent lubricants from spreading to breaker contacts.
HEADLIGHTS
To assure correct adjustment of headlight aiming, it is recommended that the headlights be checked and, if necessary, re-aimed properly every six months.
Changes in front and rear suspension, such as front suspension height and/or deflection of ‘rear springs due to heavy loading, will change the headlight beam pattern and may cause unsafe nighttime driving con- ditions.
If a vehicle is to be loaded abnormally, such as for a vacation trip, or with a salesman’s products, the headlight aiming should be checked and adjusted to serve the new conditions. Refer to “Electrical Sys- tem,” Group 8, for adjusting procedures.
WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADES
Long exposure to heat and road splash tend to harden rubber wiper blades, thus destroying their efficiency. When blades smear or in general do not satisfactorily clean the windshield, they should be replaced.
To replace, depress release on top of blade bridge and slide out rubber blade. Slide new rubber blade refill into bridge and lock it in place. Refer to Parts
List for correct rubber blade refill. protection of all engines for all types of operation, only those lubricants should be selected which:
(a) Conform to the requirements of the API classi- fication “FOR SERVICE MS.”
(b) Have the proper SAE grade number for the ex- pected temperature range.
Oils used in our engines, labeled “For Service should equal or exceed the Engine Oil Perform- ance Rating Sequence Tests for varnish, sludge and rusting, when tested according to the methods estab lished by the car manufacturer.
All Season Supreme and Supreme Motor able through the Parts Division, meet these quiremen ts. re-
Oil Viscosity Recommendations (AI! engines except 426 Hemi)
Multigrades
SAE
SAE or
SAE
20W-40 lOW-40
1OW-30
SAE or
1OW-30
SAE 10W-40
SAE or
SAE
5W-30
5W-20
Where temperatures are consistently above +32OF.
Suitable for year long operation in many parts of the U.S.; may be used where temperatures occasionally drop a s low as -10°F.
Recommended where minimum tem- peratures are consistently below
+
10OF.
Single Grades
SAE 30 Where temperatures are consistently above +32”F.
SAE 1OW Where temperatures range between
+32”F. and -10°F.
ENGINE OIL-SELECTION OF
For
best performance, and to provide for maximum
Oil Viscosity Recommendations (426 Hemi
Engines)
Multigrades
SAE 20W-40
SAE or
SAE
1OW-30 lOW-40
Where temperatures are consistently above +32”F.
Where temperatures are consistently below +32”F.
Fig. I6-Distributor Lubrication
Single Grades
SAE or
30
SAE 40
Where temperatures are consistently above +32”F.
Low viscosity oils make engine starting easier in cold weather. Modern SAE 5W-20 and SAE 5W-30 grade oils have been subjected to extensive engineer- ing evaluation and may be safely used as recom- mended. As stated in the accompanying table, oils of the SAE 5W-20 viscosity are recommended where minimum temperatures consistently fall below
+lo”
MyMopar.com
0
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-13
F. during some winter months. If your region is in the shaded area (Fig. 17), SAE 5W-20 oil should be used during the winter months only in engines speci- fied.
Lubricants which do not have both an
SAE
grade number and an MS Service classification on the con- tainer should not be used.
IMPORTANT: If a vehicle equipped with a 426
Hemi engine is to be used in competition or other forms of high performance service, use only the oil viscosity grades listed for Summer usage, regardless of ambient temperature. For this type of service, a more frequent oil change is also necessary to limit the effects of oil deterioration.
MATERIALS ADDED TO ENGINE OILS
It is not necessary to add any other products to engine oils for most types of driving when MS quality oils are used.
In some instances, such as infrequent operation or short trips only, and during break-in after a major overhaul, addition of special materials containing anti-rust and anti-scuff additives is beneficial. A prod- uct suitable for this purpose is available under Part
Number 1879406, Engine Oil Supplement.
FREQUENCY OF ENGINE OIL CHANGES
The by-products of combustion, such as unburned fuel, condensation and carbon deposits, in addition to dust and other abrasive materials, tend to contaminate engine oil. If permitted to remain in the crankcase for too great a period of time, the contaminates reduce the lubricating qualities of the oil causing excessive wear which can materially affect the operating effi- ciency of the engine.
To provide maximum protection to engine parts, it is recommended under normal operating conditions, that engine oil be drained and replenished with new oil of the proper viscosity and API classification, every three (3) months or 4,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
When draining the old oil, it is recommended that the engine be at normal operating temperature, as the warmed oil will drain more readily and carry with it such foreign matter which might otherwise cling to the sides of the crankcase and the various moving parts.
A greater degree of contamination of the engine oil takes place when the vehicle is operated under adverse conditions, such as frequent driving in dusty areas, short trips, stop-and-go driving and where long periods of idling are experienced. For oil change fre- quencies under these operating conditions, refer to the recommendations in the paragraphs under Severe
Operating Conditions and Taxi and Police Operation.
During Break-ln
Cars should be driven moderately during the first
300 miles. Speeds up to 50 to 60 mph are desirable.
While cruising, brief full-throttle accelerations con- tribute to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle accel- erations in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided for at least 500 miles.
The oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high-quality lubricant, classified “For Service MS,” and should be retained until the first regularly scheduled three-month or 4,000 mile oil change, whichever occurs first. If it becomes necessary to add oil during this initial period, an oil with the “For
Service MS” classification and of the proper viscosity grade should be used. Nondetergent or straight mineral oils must never k
Oil level should be checked during each stop for gasoline. Oil should be added only when level on oil level indicator is at or below “ADD OIL” mark.
Frequently, a new engine will coiisume some oil during its first few thousand miles of operation. This should be considered as a normal part of the break-in and not interpreted as an indication of difficulty.
NK575
Fig. 17-Shaded Area Covers Region Where
Minimum Temperatures May Be Consistently
Below
+
1 OOF. During Some Winter Months
Severe Operating Conditions
Severe operating conditions, such as frequent driv- ing on dusty roads, or in sandy geographic areas, or unusually short trip driving in cold weather may reasonably require oil changes more frequently than every three months. Under these conditions, consult and follow the advice of any Chrysler Motors Corpora- tion Authorized Dealer’s Service Manager.
Taxi and Police Operation
Severe service such as taxi and city police driving, which is principally short trip operation, including frequent and prolonged idling, requires oil changes more frequently on a regular schedule. For this type
MyMopar.com
0-14
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0
Fig. 18-Engine Oil Filter (6 Cylinder Engines) of service, it is recommended that engine oil be changed every two months, not to exceed 2,000
Replace filter every second oil change.
ENGINE OIL FILTERS
All engines are equipped with full-flow, throwaway oil filters (Figs. 18, 19, 20 or 21) to provide efficient filtering of engine oil for maximum engine protection.
The filter should be replaced every second oil change. Since filters vary widely in quality, it is rec- ommended that a Chrysler Corporation Engine Oil
Filter, or equivalent, be used for replacement to as- sure most efficient service.
CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM
All models are equipped with a fully closed crank- case ventilation system (Fig. 22). This system has a closed
oil
filler cap with a hose connecting the filler cap to the carburetor air cleaner housing. This pro- vides the air inlet for the system.
The air drawn from the carburetor air cleaner through the connecting hose to the filler cap (Fig.
23) is circulated through the engine and drawn out of the cylinder head cover, through a valve mounted in the cover, by manifold vacuum; through another
NR80
Fig. 20-Engine Oil Filter buretor throttle valve body, into the combustion chamber, and dispelled with the exhaust gases.
Servicing Frequencies
Proper maintenance of the crankcase ventilation system is required to keep the system clean and main- tain good engine performance and durability. Periodic servicing is required to remove combustion products from the ventilator valve, hoses, carburetor passages and oil filler cap.
Every six months the system must be tested for proper operation and cleaned if necessary. This in- cludes inspecting the operation of the valve, checking the hoses and carburetor passages for deposits and cleaning the oil filler cap and carburetor air cleaner.
The crankcase ventilator valve must be replaced with a new one every year. The carburetor air cleaner filter element must be replaced every year on High
Performance Vehicles equipped with “Fresh Air In- duction System”, and every 2 years for vehicles equipped with standard air cleaner.
If the car is used extensively for short trips with frequent idling, the ventilation system may require servicing more frequently.
Servicing Procedure
Remove hose from carburetor air cleaner (Fig.
Fig. 19-Engine Oil Filter (273 and
340 Cu. In. Engines)
NN359
Fig. 2 1 -Removing Engine Oil Filter (383,
426,440 Cu. In. Engines)
MyMopar.com
0
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0-15
Fig. 22-Fully Closed Crankcase Ventilation System
With engine operating at idle, vacuum should be felt when a finger is placed over hose opening. If vacuum is felt, a final test should be made to be certain valve shuttle is free. With ventilator valve removed from cylinder head cover, engine not running, a clicking noise should be heard when valve is shaken (Fig. 25).
If the noise is heard, the system is satisfactory and no further testing is necessary.
However, if no vacuum is felt at end of air cleaner hose, remove oil filler cap and loosely hold a stiff paper or parts tag over oil filler tube (Fig. 26). Within a few seconds, it should be sucked against the tube with a holding force. A holding force indicates a plugged air cleaner hose and the system should be cleaned.
If paper is not sucked against filler tube, remove ventilator valve from cylinder head cover. If valve is not plugged, a hissing noise will be heard as air passes through valve and a strong vacuum should be felt when a finger is placed over valve inlet (Fig. 27).
If vacuum is not felt at valve inlet, remove valve hose at base of carburetor. A distinct vacuum should be felt at end of fitting in carburetor (Fig. 28). If it is not felt, the carburetor must be removed and pas- sages cleaned. Dip lower end of carburetor in Carbu- retor Cleaner, Part Number 2933500, or equivalent.
Hand turn a 1/4 inch drill through passage to dislodge solid particles, then blow clean. IMPORTANT: Make sure drill size used will not remove any metal. Use a smaller size, if necessary. It is not necessary to disas- semble carburetor for this service.
The hoses, oil filler cap and air cleaner should be
AIR CLEANER HOSE
/
AIR CLEANER HOSE
CLOSED OIL
CYLINDER HEAD COVER
VENTILATOR VALVE ASSEMBLY
‘THIS WASHER IS COLOR
CODED TO IDENTIFY
VENT VALVE ASSEMBLY L-J----
SIX-CYLINDER ENGINES
Fig. 23-Air CircuIation-Fulfy Closed Crankcase Ventilation System w
V-8 ENGINES
NP125A
MyMopar.com
0-16
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE-
Fig. 24-Checking Vacuum at Carburetor
Air Cleaner Hose
- -
”
Fig. 27-Checking Vacuum at Ventilator Valve I n k t
)
Fig. 25-Shaking Ventilator Valve
Fig. 28-Checking Vacuum at Carburetor
Throttle Body cleaned as outlined in their respective paragraphs. Do not attempt to clean the valve; replace it with a new one. On 170 and 225 cubic inch engines, the valve is identified by a white end washer. On V-8 engines, the valve is identified by a black end washer.
All components that do not allow passage of air through the system after the cleaning operation, should be replaced.
Oil Filler Cap
Disconnect the air cleaner hose at the filler cap
(Fig. 23). Remove filler cap and wash it thoroughly in kerosene, or other suitable solvents. Shake out sur-
I
I-- plus solvent. Lubricate the filter element in the cap by inverting and filling the cap with SAE-30 engine oil. Drain excess oil thoroughly through the vent tube
(Fig. 29).
Hoses
Clean hoses by immersing in Carburetor Cleaner,
Part Number 2933500, or equivalent, followed by dry- ing with compressed air. Hoses should not remain in solvent more than one-half hour.
Fig. 26-Checking Vacuum at Oil Filler Tube Fig. 29-Closed t y p e Oil Filler Cap
NK577
MyMopar.com
n
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-17
ENGINE PERFORMANCE EVALUATION
Engine operating efficiency depends on correct ijp nition, carburetor adjustments, and on correct valve lash where applicable. To obtain best engine per- formance, Chrysler Corporation recommends that the engine be evaluated every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first, and tuned, if necessary.
Services performed during this evaluation should in- clude the following.
1-Spark Plugs-Remove and inspect each spark plug. Most plugs can be cleaned, adjusted, and rein- stalled. Rough idle, hard starting, frequent engine miss at high speeds, or apparent physical deteriora- tion, are indications that the spark plugs should be replaced.
2-Distributor-Inspect distributor cap and rotor.
Test resistance of secondary cables. Check breaker contacts for abnormal pitting, bluing, or misalign- ment, and adjust, if serviceable, or replace. Lubricate cam and wick, (see page 11). See “Ignition System”
Group 8 Electrical, for tests and adjustments.
3-Carburetor-Remove and clean air filter. Check operation of manifold heat control valve shaft, choke valve shaft and choke diaphragm; use solvents rec- ommended. Clean crankcase ventilation system, (see page 14). See “Fuel System,” Group 14, adjustment procedures.
4-Battery-Check specific gravity. Clean and tighten terminals; apply grease to posts and termi- nals. Check circuit voltages as described in “Electri- cal,” Group 8.
&Starting Motor-Test cranking ability as de- scribed in “Electrical,” Group 8.
&Valve Lash (where applicable)--Should an en- gine continue to be noisy and the idle rough after a tune-up, adjust valve lash to specifications. Refer to
“Engine”, Group 9, for lash values and instructions.
Fig. 3 I -Manifold Heat Control Valve
( 2 7 3 , 3 18 Cu. In. Engines)
MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE
Freedom of movement of the heat control valve, by removing lead deposits from the valve shaft bearings, is assured by application of suitable solvent. Such a solvent is available under Part Number 2525054,
Manifold Heat Control Valve Solvent.
Every engine oil change apply solvent to both ends of valve shaft where it rotates in bushings (Figs.
31, 33 or 34). Apply solvent when manifold is
COOL. Allow solvent to soak a few minutes, then work valve shaft back and forth until it moves freely.
CARBURETOR AIR CLEANER
P-
NUS49
Paper Element Type
The paper filter element (Figs. 35, 36, 37 or 38) in the carburetor air cleaner should be cleaned every six months and replaced every two years. On high per- formance vehicles equipped with “Fresh Air Induction
System’’ clean filter every oil change and replace every year.
Use a Chrysler Corporation filter element or equiv- alent, for replacement.
Fig. 30-Manifold Hear Control Valve
(6 Cylinder Engines)
Fig. 32-Manifold Heat Control Valve
(340 Cu. In. Engine)
NR87
MyMopar.com
0-18
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
COVER
HOSE FITTING
FILTER ELEMENT
HOUSING
V A L V E SHAFT
NN301
Fig. 33-Manifold Heat Control Valve
(383, 440 Cu. In. Engines)
If the filter element is saturated with oil for more than one-half its circumference, replace the filter element and check the rest of the crankcase venti- lating system for proper functioning.
To clean, remove air cleaner from carburetor. Re- move cover and filter element and clean cover and housing. Using compressed air, gently clean element by holding air hose nozzle at least two inches from in- side screen (Fig. 39).
CAUTION: Do not use compressed air on outside surface of element as this will embed foreign matter in the element paper.
Examine element for punctures. Discard an ele- ment that has small pin-point punctures. Examine soft plastic sealing rings on both sides of element for smoothness and uniformity. Replace element if not sa tisf ac tory.
At this time, also service the Carburetor Choke
Shaft, as outlined.
Oil Bath Type (Extra Equipment)
The sediment level in the air cleaner (Fig. 40)
NR89
Fig. 36-Carburetor A i r Cleaner-Silenced, Dry Type
(8 Cylinder Engines)
COVER
Fig. 35-Carburetor A i r Cleaner-Dry Type
(6 Cylinder Engine) -
COVER \
1 a
HOSE FITTING
HOUSING
NR88
C K
KLEMENT
/
/ -
HOSE FITTING
FILTER ,
I
0
HOUSING
\
THERMOSTAT
Fig. 34-Header Heat Control Valve
(426 Cv. In. Engine)
NN963
Fig. 374arburetor A i r CI.arner-Unrilencod, Dry
Type (8 Cylinder Engines)
MyMopar.com
0
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0-19 c r
4
FILTER ELEMENT HOSE F,TTING
!
H0USlt-w NR91
VENT
RETAINER
NU323
Fig. 38-Carburetor Air Cleaner (Fresh Air System) should be examined every second oil change, or more frequently under severe operating conditions, such as in dusty areas.
If the sediment builds up to within 3/8 inch of the shelf, discard old oil and thoroughly clean the air cleaner. In any event, the cleaner should be serviced at least once a year.
To clean, remove cover and filter element. Wash element thoroughly in kerosene and drain. Element should be washed in an upright position to prevent the accumulation of dirt on the top side of the ele- ment, and the underside of the cover during the wash- ing operation, dirt accumulation due to improper ele- ment cleaning will result in increased engine wear rate. Clean reservoir thoroughly and fill to indicated level with SAE 1OW-30 able for all temperatures.
Reassemble cleaner and install on carburetor.
CARBURETOR CHOKE SHAFT
Every six months, apply Carburetor Cleaner, Part
- -
Fig. 40-Carburetor Air Cleaner (Oil Bath t y p e )
Number 2933500, or equivalent, to both ends of choke shaft where it passes through the air horn (Fig.
41). At same time, move choke shaft back and forth until deposits are flushed out. Run engine at idle to clean out excess cleaner from carburetor and in- take manifold.
Also, apply same type of cleaner to fast idle cam and pivot pin to remove dirt, oil and any other de- posits that may have collected and cause sticking or erratic motion.
This service will assure freedom of movement the choke mechanism.
of
FUEL FILTERS
The fuel filters (Figs. 42, 43 or 44) are of the dis- posable type. Under normal operating conditions, filter should be replaced every 24 months or 24,000 miles, whichever occurs first. Should an excessive amount of foreign matter accumulate in fuel tank, filter may require replacing more frequently.
After installing new filter, run engine for several minutes and check for leaks at connections.
Fig. 39-Cleaning Filter Element Fig. 41-Choke Valve Shaft and F a s t Idle Cam
MyMopar.com
0-20
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
I
Lr“-
-
1
-- b
Fig. 42-Fuel Filter (6 Cylinder Engines)
I u, 4”
PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS
Fig. 44-Fuel Filter ( 3 8 3 , 4 2 6 , 4 4 0 Cu. In. Engines)
I
Under normal operating conditions, relubrication of the propeller shaft universal joints is not recom- mended. Every six months, however, the front and rear joints (Figs. 45 or 46) should be inspected for external leakage or damaged seals.
The joints should not be disassembled for re- lubrication unless external leakage or damage is ob- served.
When necessary to replace seals on universal joints, disassemble joints as outlined under “Propeller Shaft and Universal Joints,” Group 16. Clean and inspect all parts for serviceability. Replace damaged parts as required. Repack bearings, using a Multi-Purpose
Grease, NLGI grade 2 EP, such as Multi-Mileage Lu- bricant, Part Number 2525035.
Severe Service Requirements
When the vehicle is operated under conditions classified as severe service, as outlined below the uni- versal joints should be inspected for leakage at seals
Fig. 45-Front Universal Joint every 3 months or 4,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
(a) Continuous operation at higher than normal loading.
(b) Very dusty, dirty or sandy operating conditions.
Under these conditions, the universal joints should be disassembled, cleaned and relubricated every 36 months or 36,000
NLGI grade 2 EP, such as Multi-Mileage Lubricant,
Part Number 2525035.
STEERING GEAR
Manual
The lubricant installed in the steering gear at time of assembly is a high quality product and regularly scheduled changes are not required.
II
0
1
I
I
Fig. 43-Fuel Filter (273,3 18,340 Cu. In. Engines)
NN240
Fig. 46-Rear Universal Joint
MyMopar.com
n
Every six months, remove plug in steering gear housing (Fig. 47) and check lubricant level. Lubricant should cover worm gear.
If lubricant is below prescribed level, replenish with Multi-Purpose Gear Oil SAE 90, as defined by
MILL2105B. This is suitable for all temperatures.
Special Sure-Grip Lubricant, Part Number 2585318, is a fluid of this type and its use is recommended.
CAUTION: When filling, do not u- a pressure gun as high pressure may damage the seals.
LUBRICATION AND
0-21
Power Steering
Check fluid level in power steering reservoir every engine oil change. On 1.06 pump (Fig. 48) when fluid is cold, level should be between 1-3/4 and 2-1/4 inches below top of filler neck. When fluid is hot the level will rise approximately 1 inch.
Some V-8 engines are equipped with a .94 Power
Steering Pump (Fig. 49) identified by an oval shaped filler tube and a filler cap with a built-in dip stick marked “FULL” and “ADD”.
To check fluid level, first allow fluid to warm up to normal operating temperature. Level should be at
“FULL” mark. If level is low, replenish to the “FULL” mark with recommended fluid.
CAUTION: Before removing filler neck cap, wipe it carefully to prevent accumulated dirt from dropping into reservoir.
To restore level, if necessary, replenish with hy- draulic fluid specially formulated for minimum effect on rubber hoses. Such a fluid is available under Part
Number 2084329, Power Steering Fluid.
Fig. 48-Power Steering Pump Reservoir ( I .06 Pump)
TRANSMISSION (Manual)
Three-Speed
The lubricant installed in the transmission at the time of assembly is a high quality product and regu- larly scheduled changes are not required for vehicles whose operation is classified as normal service for passenger cars.
The fluid level should be checked every six months.
The correct level is at the bottom of the filler plug hole (Fig. 50). Replenish if necessary with automatic transmission fluid. Use only fluids of the type labeled
Dexron “Automatic Transmission Fluid or Chrysler
Automatic Transmission Fluid AQ-ATF-2848A or
2351A”, available under Part Number 1843314.
In warm climates, if desired, the Automatic Trans- mission may be drained and the transmission refilled with Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant SAE 90, as defined by MIL-L-2105B.
When vehicle is used for other than normal service, or for towing trailers, refer to “Trailer Towing Serv- ice,” for recommended servicing.
-113
,J
I
The transmission is filled at the factory with a spe-
FILLER CAP
Fig. U7-Manud Steering Gear FilJer Plug
Fig. 49-Power Steering Pump Reservoir ($94
MyMopar.com
0-22
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0
NK564
Fig. 50--Transmission Filler and Drain Plugs
I cia1 gear lubricant and regularly scheduled changes are not required for vehicles whose operation is clas- sified as normal service for passenger cars.
The fluid level, however, should be checked every six months. The correct level is at the bottom of the filler plug hole (Fig. 50). If lubricant is below the specified level, replenish with Multi-Purpose Gear
Lubricant SAE 140, as defined by MIL-L-2105B.
During cold weather, if shift effort becomes ex- tremely high, transmission should be drained and refilled with Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant SAE 80 or SAE 90, as defined by MIL-L-2105B or with auto- matic transmission fluid types labeled “Dexron Auto- matic Transmission Fluid or Chrysler Automatic
Transmission Fluid AQ-ATF-2848A or 2351A available under Part Number 1843314. Automatic transmission
Fluid should be replaced with Multi-Purpose Gear
Lubricant SAE 140 in warm weather. No other Iubri- cants should be used.
Fig. 5 1 -Column-Mounted Gearshift Control at lower end of steering column (Fig. 51).
Apply a film of Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part
Number 2525035, or Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI grade 2 EP, to contact surfaces on levers (Fig. 51).
Floor-Mounted Transmission
Gearshift Controls
If operation of the mechanism becomes diffcult, remove rubber boot on floor panel and apply a few drops of light engine oil to the mechanism.
In addition, from under the vehicle, apply light en- gine oil to rod ends in operating levers (Fig. 52).
TRANS M
I
SS I 0 N (Automatic)
Frequency of Fluid Change (All Models except with 426 Hemi Engine)
For vehicles operated under normal service condi- tions, the transmission fluid and filter will provide satisfactory lubrication and protection to the trans- mission. Therefore, periodic fluid changes are not required.
IMPORTANT: If, for any reason, the factory fill fluid
‘
Trailer Towing and Severe Service
For vehicles equipped for trailer towing service, or if the regular operation of the vehicle is classified as severe, the transmission lubricant level should be checked every 3 months or 4,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
The transmission should be drained and refilled with the specified lubricant, initially after 36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, and every 12 months or 12,000 miles, thereafter, whichever occurs first.
Column-Mounted Transmission
Gearshift Controls
If operation of gearshift controls becomes noisy or shift effort becomes objectionable, lubricate linkage
Fig. 52-Floor-Mounted Oeorshifr Control
MyMopar.com
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0-23 is replaced with another fluid, the fluid and filter must be changed and band adjustment checked every 36 months or 36,000 normal service. miles, whichever occurs first, in
Frequency of Fluid Change
(Vehicles Equipped with 426 Hemi Engine)
The factory fill fluid should be changed after the first 24 months or 24,000 miles, whichever occurs first, and periodically, thereafter, every 12 months or
12,000 miles, whichever occurs first. The filter should be changed and the band adjustment checked with each fluid change.
If, for any reason, the factory fill fluid is replaced with another fluid, prior to the 24 months or 24,000 miles interval, the fluid and filter should be changed and band adjustment checked every 12 months or
12,000 miles, thereafter, whichever occurs first, after the change to the field fluid.
Fluid Level Check
The fluid level should be checked every six months.
This check should be made when engine temperature gauge indicates a normal warmed-up condition and transmission fluid is heated to its normal operating temperature. Check level with parking brake applied firmly and engine idling.
CAUTION: Before removing level indicator, wipe off cap and top of filler tube to prevent accumulated dirt from dropping into transmission filler tube.
After engine has idled for about two minutes, move gearshift lever slowly through all gear positions, paus- ing momentarily in each and ending with lever in “N” position.
When fluid is “hot,” level should be at the “FULL” mark or slightly below, but never above the “FULL,‘, mark (Fig. 53) to avoid foaming of the fluid. Fluid should be added or extracted, depending upon the reading, to restore level as specified.
Restore fluid level when necessary with automatic
Fig. 53-Transmission Level Indicator Markings transmission fluid. Use only fluids of the type labeled
“Dexron Automatic Transmission Fluid or Chrysler
Automatic Transmission Fluid AQ-ATF-2848A or
2351A”, available under Part Number 1843314. Ex- ception to this is a sealer which introduces a small amount of swelling of the seals to reduce fluid leakage resulting from hardening or shrinking of the seals in high mileage vehicles. Such a product is available under Part Number 2298923, Transmission Sealer.
Trailer Towing Service
(All and Severe Usage models except 426 Hemi engine)
When the vehicle is equipped for trailer towing service, or if the operation of the vehicle is classified as severe, as outlined below, the fluid level should be checked every 3 months or 4,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
(a) Police and taxicab operation.
(b) Frequent towing of trailers.
(c) Continuous operation at higher than normal loading.
Under these conditions, the fluid and filter should be replaced and bands adjusted initially after 36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, and every 12 months or 12,000 miles, thereafter, which- ever occurs first.
For transmission draining and refilling service, filter replacement and band adjustment procedures, see “Torque Flite Transmission,” Group 21.
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS
The condition and quantity of the lubricant in the front wheel bearings on cars equipped with either drum or disc type brakes should be inspected whenever the wheels are removed to inspect or serv- ice the brake system. Brake system inspection is recommended every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
When inspection of the wheel bearing lubricant in- dicates it is low in quantity, contains dirt, or has been con.;aminated by water to produce a milky appear- ance, bearings and hub should be cleaned, inspected and relubricated.
CAUTION: To avoid possible contamination of lubri- cant by mixing lubricants that are not compatible, do not add lubricant to bearings.
Thoroughly clean old lubricant from bearings and hubs. Carefully examine cups, rollers, and inner race of cone for brinneling or spalling. Bearing should be replaced if any defects exist.
Discard old seals. Repack bearings and hubs with
Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI grade 2 EP, or Multi-
Mileage Lubricant, Part Number 2525035. When repacking hubs, make sure all surfaces of hub and outer grease cup interiors are covered with grease
MyMopar.com
0-24
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
HUB GREASE CAVITY
I
Fig. 54-Front Wheel Bearing Lubrication
(Fig. 54) to minimize condensation and grease travel out of bearing. DO NOT OVERFILL.
Adjust bearings as follows:
(1) Install wheel and drum assemblies and tighten wheel nuts on Dart models to 55 foot-pounds, on
Charger and Coronet models, to 65
(2) to
Dart models and 90 inch-pounds on
Coronet and Charger models, while rotating wheel.
SPARE
2
KP23A
Fig. 56-tire Rotation Diagram-5 T i n s should be rotated according to diagram (Fig. 57).
Tires should be examined for unusual wear pat- terns, foreign material and proper inflation pressures.
Unusual wear conditions may reflect a need for a change in driving habits or indicate that mechanical corrections may be necessary.
A decal showing the recommended tire pressure is located on the body pillar at the rear of the left front door opening (“B” post). Refer to “Tires”, Group 22, for additional information. of cotter pin slots align with hole in spindle.
(4) off adjusting nut and nut lock to the next slot and install cotter pin.
TIRES
Tires, including spare, should be rotated every second oil change according to tire rotation diagram
(Fig. 56), to provide uniform wear, long tire life, and to retain comfortable riding qualities.
If owner insists on a four tire switch only, the tires
SPEEDOMETER CABLE
To service a noisy speedometer cable, disconnect housing at speedometer head. Remove shaft and clean it thoroughly. Apply a very thin film of speedometer cable lubricant on the shaft. Such a lubricant is avail- able under Part Number 1243632,
Lubricant. Wipe excess lubricant from the top one. foot of the shaft and from the ferrule.
CAUTION: Excessive lubricant may causa malfunc- tion of the speedometer.
LEFT FRONT RIGHT FRONT
Fig. 5 5 J r o n t Wheel Bearing Adjustment Fig. 57-tin Rotation D i a g r a m 4 T i n s
NP158
MyMopar.com
n
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
PIVOT AREAS
0-25
CONTACT AREAS
Fig. 58-Hood Lock
HOOD LOCK, RELEASE MECHANISM AND
SAFETY CATCH
Lubrication of the hood latch release mechanisms and safety catch i s of vital importance and should be inspected, cleaned and lubricated every 6 months to assure ease of operation and freedom from binding.
Dart Models
Apply Multi-Purpose Lubricant, NLGI grade 2, or
Multi-Purpose Lubricant, Part Number 2525035 spar- ingly, to pivot and sliding contact areas of lock (Fig.
58). Also, apply a film of the same type of lubricant to pivot contact areas of safety catch.
Coronet and Charger Models
Apply Automotive Multi-Purpose Lubricant, NLGI grade 2, or Multi-Purpose Lubricant, Part Number
2525035 sparingly, to pivot and sliding contact areas
(Figs. 59 and 60). Also, apply a film of the same type lubricant to pivot contact areas of safety catch. Apply a few drops of light engine oil to the lock release lever pivot. Wipe off excess oil.
CONTACT
AREAS
PIVOT AREA
SAFETY CATCH
Fig. 60-HOOd Lock (Charger Model)
BODY MA1 NTENANCE
Body and other operating mechanisms, including throttle linkages, should be inspected, cleaned and lubricated as needed. This is necessary to maintain ease of operation and to provide protection against rust and wear.
Prior to applying any lubricants, wipe the parts clean to remove dust and grit. After lubricating parts, remove excess oil or lubricant.
Relubricate mechanisms as outlined in the follow- ing paragraphs. Where Lubriplate is specified, use a smooth, white body hardware lubricant conforming to
NLGI, grade 1. A suitable lubricant is available under
Part Number 1064768. Where Door Ease Lubricant is specified, use a stainless wax type lubricant. Such a lubricant is available under Part Number 774512.
Lock Cylinders
When necessary, apply a thin film of Lubriplate di- rectly to key. Insert key into lock and actuate several times. Wipe excess lubricant from key. Particular at- tention should be given to external lock cylinders during fall and winter months to insure protection from water and ice.
Hood Hinges (Dart Models)
Apply engine oil to the two link pivots on each side of the hinge (Fig. 61). x -LOCK
RELEASE HAN
Fig. 59-HOOd Lock (Coronet Models)
NR237
Hood Hinges (Coronet and Charger Models)
Apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to all pivot points, gear teeth and spring ends (Fig. 62).
Door Hinges (Coronet and Charger Models)
On all hinges, apply engine oil to hinge pin ends
(Fig. 63).
On lower hinges, in addition, apply engine oil to torsion spring contact points and all pivot contact points.
Door Lock Ratchet and Striker Bolt
(Dart Models)
Apply light engine oil sparingly, to ratchet pivot
MyMopar.com
0-26 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0
PIVOT AND ROLLER
CONTACT POINTS
FRONT DOOR LOW REAR DOOR LOWER NN388A
Fig. 63-Door Hinge (All Models)
Fig. 61-Hood Hinge (Dart Models) areas (Fig. 64). Wipe off excess oil. Apply Door
Lubricant to contact area of striker bolt.
Ease
Door
Latch Striker Plate (Coronet and
Charger Models)
Apply Door Ease Lubricant to striker teeth rotor contact surfaces (Fig. 65).
lock
Door
Latch
Strfier
Rotor (Coronet and
Charger Models)
Apply light engine oil, sparingly, to outside and inside rotor beaMg surfaces (Fig. 65). Wipe off ex- cess oil.
Fig. 64-Door Lock Ratchet and Striker Bolt
(Dart Models)
Door
Locks and Locking Control Linkage
(All
Models)
If necessary to inspect operation of and relubri- cate these parts, remove door
trim
panel. Apply a film of Lubriplate to all pivot and sliding contact areas.
Door
If
Remote Control Link
(All
Models)
necessary to inspect operation of and relubri-
NN404
Fig. 62-Hood Hinge (Coronet and Charger Models)
EASE NU460
Fig. 65-Door Striker Rotor and Striker Plate
Koronet and Charger Models)
MyMopar.com
0
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-27
BAR
R
E fig. 66-Deck Lid Latch (All Models) cate these parts, remove door trim panel. Apply film of Lubriplate to all link end pivots. a
Window Regulator, Glass Lower Frame
(All
Models)
If necessary to inspect operation of and relubri- cate these parts, remove door or quarter trim panel.
Apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to regulator sector gear teeth, assist spring and pivots. Apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to glass lower frame roller slide tracks and roller and bracket assembly pivot points.
Deck Lid Latch (All Models)
Apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to all pivot and sliding contact surfaces (Fig. 66).
Deck Lid Hinge (Dart Models)
Apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to all torsion bar sup- port bearing areas, and interior surface of torsion
NP178
Fig. 68-Deck Lid Hinge (Coronet Models) bar slide (Fig. 67). Also, apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to contact surface of hinge cam and slide.
Deck Lid Hinge (Except Dart)
Apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to torsion bar sup- port bearing areas, contact surfaces of hinge cam and torsion bar slide (Fig. 68). Also, apply Lubriplate to interior surface of torsion bar slide.
TAIL GATE-DOOR LUBRICATION
(Coronet Models)
Apply engine oil sparingly to upper and lower hinge pivot pins and to the check strap and link pivot bolts
(Fig. 69). Lubricate check strap, link and torsion bar
CONTACT AR
(EXCEPT CONVERTIBLE) CONTACT
SURFACES
CONTACT AREA
TORSION BAR SLIDE
NPl77B
Fig. 6 7 4 - k lid Hinge fDaH Models) Fig. 69-1ail Gcrts-Door
MyMopar.com
0-28 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
~ contact areas with Multi-Purpose NLGI grade 2, EP or Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number 2525035.
To lubricate the remote lock or glass regulator, re move tail gate trim panel and apply Lubriplate to all pivot sliding contact areas, remote control assembly and spring. Door Ease should be applied to contact surfaces of striker bolt.
Tail Gufe Window Wiper Linkage
To lubricate this linkage, remove tail gate trim panel. Apply Lubriplate, sparingly, to the sliding con- tact areas between the actuater arm and pin, and be- tween the actuating arm and regulator sector gear.
Do not contaminate wiper blades with lubricant.
THROTTLE LINKAGES
Every 12 months throttle linkage should be lubri- cated with Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI grade 2 EP or
Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number 2525035 as described in the following paragraphs. Do not lubri- cate linkage ball joints.
Dart, Coronet and Charger
6 Cyl. Engines
On models with manual and automatic transmis- sions, apply a thin film of the prescribed lubricant on both ends of the accelerator shaft where it turns in the bracket and where it turns in the bracket mounted anti-rattle spring (Fig. 70). Also, apply a film of the same lubricant to the accelerator pedal pivot pin where it turns in the end of the accelera- tor shaft.
On models with automatic transmission also, apply a film of the same lubricant to the engine mounted bellcrank pin.
In the passenger compartment, apply a thin film of the prescribed lubricant to the acelerator pedal pivot pin (Dart Models), and cable ball end in the pocket in the accelerator shaft lever (All Models). Be sure plug is in place in lever.
Dart Models (8 Cylinder Engines)
On models with manual and automatic transmis- sions, apply a thin film of the prescribed lubricant on both ends of the accelerator shaft where it turns in the bracket and where it is contacted by the anti- rattle spring (Figs. 71 and 72).
On models with automatic transmission, also, apply a film of the same lubricant to the pivot points of both upper and lower transmission linkage bellcranks.
In the passenger compartment, apply a thin film of the prescribed lubricant to the accelerator pedal pivot pin, cable ball end and in the pocket in the accel- erator shaft lever. Be sure plug is in place in lever.
Coronet Models
(273,3
Cu. In. Englnes)
On models with manual and automatic transmis- sions, apply a thin film of the prescribed lubricant to the accelerator shaft where it turns in the bracket
(Fig. 73).
Fig. 70--Throttle Linkage (4 Cylinder Models)
MyMopar.com
0
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 0-29
of
(AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ONLY)
Fig. 7 1 --Throttle Linkage (Dart 273,340 Cu. In. Engine)
On models with automatic transmission, apply a thin film of the same lubricant to the pivot points of both upper and lower transmission linkage bellcranks.
In the passenger compartment, apply a thin film the prescribed lubricant to the accelerator cable anchor end and in the pocket in the accelerator shaft lever (Fig. 73).
Coronet Models (383,426 and 440 Cu. In.
Engines)
On models with manual and automatic transmis- sions apply a thin film of the prescribed lubricant to the accelerator shaft where it turns in the bracket
(Fig. 74).
On models with automatic transmission, also, apply a film of the same lubricant to the pivot points of both upper and lower transmission linkage bellcranks.
In the passenger compartment, apply a thin film of the prescribed lubricant to the accelerator cable anchor end and in the pocket in the accelerator shaft lever (Fig. 74). Be sure plug is in place in lever.
PARTS REQUIRING NO LUBRICATION
NP269A
There are many points that should not be lubri- cated, some because they are permanently lubricated, some because lubricants will be detrimental to their operating characteristics, and some because lubri- cants will cause component failures. In any event, rubber bushings should not be lubricated, not only because lubricants will cause rubber to fail, but also will destroy their necessary fraction characteristics.
MyMopar.com
0-30
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0
Fig. 72-Throttle Linkage (Dart 383 Cu. In. Engine)
NR236A f$ (77
I i A
1
BELLCRANK PlVbT POINT-LOWER
(AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ONLY)
Fig. 74-Throttle Linkage (Coronet and Charger 383,426,440 Cu. In. Engines)
NP413A
MyMopar.com
0
LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE
0-31
BELLCRANK PIN
(AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ONLY)
Fig. 73-1hrottle Linkage (Coronet and Charger 273,3 I 8 Cu. In. Engine)
The following parts should not be lubricated:
All Rubber Bushings
Alternator Bearings
Automatic Transmission
Controls and Linkage
Carburetor Air Cleaner
(Paper Element Type)
Clutch Pedal Push
Rod Ends
Clutch Release Bearing
Drive Belts
Fan Belt Idler Pulley
Rear Springs
Rear Wheel Bearings
Starting Motor Bushings
Throttle Linkage Ball Joints
Upper and Lower Control
Arm Bushings
Water Pump Bearings
NP403A
MyMopar.com
0
GROUP
1
ACCESSORIES
.
CONTENTS
ELECTRIC CLOCK
.....................
RADIO AND ANTENNA
Page
1
SPEEDCONTROL
......................
Page
6
.................
1 TAIL GATE WIPER WASHER SYSTEM
. . . .
12
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
. . . . . . . . . . . . .
15
ELECTRIC CLOCK
GENERAL INFORMATION
The electric clocks have a self-regulating mecha- nism for automatically correcting time gain or lag when the hands are reset to the correct time. Clocks should be reset as follows:
(1) If the clock runs fast, pull the time set shaft out and reset the hands in a “counterclockwise” di- rection to the correct time. Push in the time set shaft.
(2) If the clock runs slow, pull the time set shaft out and reset the hands in a “clockwise” direction to the correct time. Push in the time set shaft.
(3) Repeat steps (1) and/or (2) frequently for sev- era1 days until the correct rate of time is achieved.
Condition
CLOCK DOES NOT
OPERATE
SERVICE A G N O S l
Possible Cause
S
(a) Wire loose or off terminal.
(b) Internal short.
(c) Faulty ground.
Correction
(a) Install connector on terminal.
(b) Repair or replace the clock a s sary. neces-
(c) Tighten clock retaining screws on cluster housing and/or cluster mount- ing screws.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Removal-Coronet Models
(1) Remove clock reset knob from front of instru- ment panel.
(2) From under the instrument panel, remove the wiring connector from clock terminal, the three screws mounting the clock to the cluster and remove the clock.
Cluster Removal”, Group 8.
(2) Remove clock or clock tachometer. On clock tachometer, remove grommet and wire from tach- ometer housing and remove the screws attaching clock to tachometer housing. Carefully remove clock without damaging tachometer indicator hand.
Installat ion-Coronet Models
(1) From under the instrument panel position clock, install mounting screws and clock wiring connector.
(2) Install clock reset at front of instrument panel and check operation of clock.
Removal-Charger Model
(1) Remove instrument cluster. See “Instrument
Installation
(1) Carefully install clock and attaching screws on instrument cluster. On clock tachometer carefully enter clock into tachometer housing and install clock attaching screws.
(2) Install clock and tachometer on instrument clus- ter and install attaching screws.
(3) Install instrument cluster. See “Instrument
Cluster Installation”, Group 8.
R A D I O AND ANTENNA
INDEX
Antennas
.....................................
Antenna Trimming
General Information
Fader Control
Front Speakers
................................
Page
............................
.................................
4
3
2
2
5
Interference Elimination
Radios
.......................
.......................................
Rear Seat Speakers
Service Diagnosis
Stereo Speakers
............................
.............................
...............................
Page
4
4
6
2
6
MyMopar.com
1-2
ACCESSORIES
GENERAL INFORMATION
OPERATION
RADIO-Push Button AM (Optional)
To operate the radio, the ignition may be in the
“on” or accessory position. Thumbwheel “A”, (Fig. l), turns on the radio and controls volume. Stations are selected by the push buttons or thumbwheel “B”.
Thumbwheel “C” allows you to adjust tone quality.
Push Button FM/AM (Optional)
Operating controls consist of four thumbwheels.
Left outside-On-Off and Volume
Left i n s i d n t a t i o n Selection
Right inside-Tone Quality
Right outside-FM and AM Selector
Push buttons may be set for either FM or AM sta- tions.
0
Combination AM Radio and Stereo
Tape Player (Optional)
The operating controls of four thumbwheels and a selector button (Fig. 2).
This four program eight-track stereo tape player provides full stereo reproduction.
To operate, insert the tape cartridge, label side up, into opening provided. The door will swing inward and the tape player will begin to play when the car- tridge is in position.
To advance the tape, a selection at a time, depress the selector button located to the left of the radio dial.
Do not store tape cartridges in high temperature areas, such as on top of the instrument panel or the rear package shelf.
Speaker Fader Control
The speaker fader control, located remotely from the stereo unit, serves to proportion the sound level between the front and rear speakers.
Condition
RADIO INOPERATIVE
REC EPTlO N
RADIO NOISY
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause Correction
(a) Blown
(b)
fuse.
Antenna open or shorted.
(a) Replace fuse,
(b) check in wiring harness. for short or open
Test with an auxiliary antenna with lead-in plugged into the receiver tenna lead from radio and set and test antenna held outside of car.
If radio plays with test antenna, original antenna and check antenna mostly for shorts to ground while rocking antenna slightly. Unplug an- use use ohm- meter to check from center contact of antenna to outside of case. If reading on ohmmeter is less than 500,000 ohms, replace antenna.
(c)
Receiver or Speaker connections (c) Test the voltage at the fuse and tight- loose or faulty. en all connections. With speaker con- trol tuned to either stop, rotate control to other stop. If radio plays, replace faulty speaker. If radio does not play, remove radio receiver for servicing.
(a) Unbalanced antenna trimmer.
(b) Shorted antenna lead-in.
(a) Outside electrical
interference.
(a) Carefully adjust the antenna trimmer.
See “Service Procedures”.
(b) Turn on radio and wiggle antenna. If speaker static tenna mounting tightness. If speaker static is is heard, check for an- still heard after tightening, disassemble antenna and test for faulty insulators or presence of mois- ture. Make an ohmmeter check step
(b) under “Radio Inoperative. If no static is heard, test for faulty or loose receiver or antenna connections at receiver. Also check antenna lead-in at antenna. If antenna checks OK, re- move radio receiver for servicing.
(a) Move the car or eliminate interfer- ence.
MyMopar.com
0
? B
I
F SELECTOR BUTTON
/
ACCESSORIES 1-3
F
D
I
I I
I
Fig. I-Push Button AM Radio
Condition Possible Causa
Fig. 2-AM Radio and Stereo Tape Player
Correction
RADIO RECEPTION
DISTORTED
INTERMITTENT
RECEPTION
Insufficient or faulty interference sup- (b) pression.
Faulty antenna.
(C)
Install effective capacitor in ignition system or voltage limiter.
Turn on radio and wiggle antenna lead and listen for speaker static. If static is heard, disassemble antenna and check for faulty insulators or presence of moisture. Make an ohmmeter test,
Step (b) “Radio Inoperative.” If no static is heard, check for a loose or faulty capacitor. If capacitor is OK, remove antenna plug from radio re- ceiver and bump receiver with heel of hand. If no static is heard, start en- gine, turn on headlights and slowly, accelerate engine speed. If a whining noise is heard, turn off headlights and if whining noise is still present check alternator for burned out diodes and voltage regulator setting. If OK, re- move radio receiver for servicing.
(a)
(b)
(C)
(d 1
Speaker voice coil leads rubbing on (a) speaker cone.
Torn speaker cone.
Faulty radio.
Foreign material in speaker.
(b)
(C)
(d)
Install an auxiliary speaker and com- pare, Replace if improved.
Replace the speaker.
Send radio to authorized radio service station for repair.
Clean or replace speaker.
(a 1
(b)
Broken wire. or
Faulty radio. shorted antenna lead-in (a)
(b)
Test with a substitute antenna and re- place if necessary.
Send radio to authorized radio service station for repair.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Antenna Trimming
A l l radios are trimmed at the factory and should require no further trimmer adjustment. However, whenever a radio is being installed after repair, or i f verification of trimmer adjustment is desired, proceed as follows:
(1) Extend antenna t o 40 inches.
(2) Manually tune radio to a weak signal between
1400 and 1600 K.C.
(3) Increase radio volume maximum treble. and set tone control to
(4) The trimmer screw is located at the rear lower right hand corner of the radio and can be reached by inserting a screwdriver into the trimmer screw access hole.
(5) Adjust antenna trimmer by carefully turning back and forth until position is found that gives peak response in volume. Maximum output indicates pro- per point of antenna trimmer adjustment.
Radio Push Button Adjustment
(1) Extend radio antenna fully.
(2) Turn radio ON and allow a warm-up period of
15 minutes.
(3) pulling out toward rear of vehicle.
(4) Using manual tuning control, tune in desired station.
(5) Relock push button by pushing it a l l the way in toward front of vehicle.
MyMopar.com
1-4 ACCESSORIES
,CLI JSTER
0
CLUSTER
VOLTAGE
NR550
Fig. 3-Radio Interference Capacitor to
Cluster Installation-Dart
Interference Elimination
Three capacitors are used to suppress engine elec- trical interference. The alternator is equipped with an internal capacitor integral with the output stud. A second capacitor is mounted on the back of the instru- ment cluster with a self tapping screw (Figs. 2 through
4). The lead wire of this capacitor is connected to the input terminal of the voltage limiter on all models.
A third capacitor is installed on the ignition coil with the lead connected to the positive primary ter- minal of the coil (Fig. 5). Radio resistance type wires in the high tension circuit of the ignition system com- plete the interference suppression.
If radio noises are evident, be sure the capacitor lead wires are making good contact on their respec- tive terminals and are securely mounted. Faulty or deteriorated spark plug wires should be replaced.
ANTENNAS
Removal-All Models
(1) Unplug antenna lead from radio receiver.
(2) Remove antenna mast by unscrewing from an- tenna body (Fig. 7).
(3) Remove capnut (Figs. 8 and 9).
(4) Remove antenna fender adapter and gasket.
(5) From under fender remove the lower adapter mounting collar and antenna lead.
Installation-All Models
(1) Assemble mounting collar to antenna body (if removed).
(2) Enter anenna body from underneath fender and insert through mounting hole in fender.
(3) Install gasket, adapter and capnut. Tighten cap-
NR544
COIL
4
Fig. 5-Radio Interference Copacttor to -
PRIMARY BATTERY POST
/
Fig. &Ignition Coil Capacitor nut to 155 inch pounds, plus or minus 25 inch pounds with Tool C-4085 (Fig. 9).
(4) Install antenna mast into antenna body until sleeve bottoms on antenna body.
(5) Reroute antenna lead through cowl side panel and over top of glove box to radio receiver (Fig. 10).
RADIOS
CAUTION: Do not operate the radio with speaker leads detached since damage to the transistors may result.
Removal-Dart Models
(1) Disconnect battery ground cable.
(2) Disconnect speaker and wiring leads at radio.
(3) From under panel remove two radio mounting nuts and remove radio mounting bracket.
ANTENNA
MAST
VOLTAGE
LIMITER
Fig. 4-Radio Interferenee Capacitor to
Cluster Installation-Charger
NR551
UPPER ADAPTER,
GASKET
Fig. 7-Antenna Installation
,
NR490A
MyMopar.com
0
ACCESSORIES
1-5
7 MAST
ADAPTER
MOUNTING
COLLAR
FENDER SECTION
REFERENCE
ANTENNA
BODY
NR546
Fig. 8-Antenna Disassembled
(4) Remove radio down and out from under instru- ment panel. lnstallation
(1) Position radio under instrument panel and stall the radio mounting bracket and attaching nuts.
(2) Connect speaker and antenna leads. in-
(3) Connect battery ground cable and test opera- tion of radio.
Removal-Charger Models
(1) Disconnect battery ground cable.
(2) Remove radio finish plate.
(3) On air conditioning equipped models, remove lower center air duct, left air duct and upper center duct. See
“Air
Conditioning” Group 24.
(4)
(5)
Remove radio mounting nut.
Remove two screws mounting radio instrument panel. to
(6)
(7)
Disconnect antenna and speaker leads.
Remove radio from under panel. front of lnstallation
(1) Enter radio from under panel and position on instrument panel and install the two mounting screws.
(2) Connect antenna and speaker leads.
(3) Install radio mounting bracket.
Fig. 10-Antenna Cable Routing
(4) Install upper center, left air and lower center ducts on cars equipped with air conditioning.
(5) Install radio finish plate (four screws).
Removal-Coronet
(1) Disconnect battery ground cable.
(2) Remove radio upper trim panel.
(3) Remove radio finish plate.
(4) Remove radio rear mounting nut from mount- ing bracket.
(5) Disconnect electrical wiring and antenna lead.
(6) Remove two mounting screws from front of in- strument panel.
(7) Remove radio from under panel.
lnstallut
ion
(1) Enter radio from under panel into position on the instrument panel and install the screws. two mounting
(2)
(4)
(5)
Connect electrical wiring and antenna lead.
(3) Install radio mounting bracket nut.
Install radio finish plate.
Install radio upper trim panel.
(6) Connect battery ground cable and test opera- tion of the radio.
SPEAKERS-FRONT
Remova -Charger Models
(1)
I
Remove radio. See “Radio Removal.”
(2) Remove two speaker mounting nuts.
(3) Remove speaker from under panel.
(4) Remove speaker from mounting plate by moving four screws. re- lnstallation
(1) Assemble speaker to speaker mounting plate.
(2) Position speaker and mounting plate to panel and install the two speaker mounting nuts.
(3) Install radio. See “Radio Installation.”
ANTENNA ADAPTER
Fig. 9-1ightening Antenna Cap N u t
Removal-Dar) Models
(1) On models equipped with air conditioning, re- move air duct.
MyMopar.com
1-6
ACCESSORIES
(2) Remove radio. See “Radio Removed.”
(3) Move air conditioning or heater controls out of the way and remove the speaker mounting nuts.
(4) ’peaker instrument panel. and mounting plate from
(5) Remove speaker from mounting plate. under lnstullcrtion
(1) Assemble speaker to mounting plate.
(2) Enter speaker at underside
Of pane’ and speaker mounting nuts.
(3)
(4)
Install radio. See “Radio Installation.”
Install air duct.
Reur Seat Speaker-All
Models
Removul
(1) Disconnect speaker leads.
0
(2) Remove the four sheet metal screws holding speaker to shelf panel.
Instullcrtion
(1)
-
Position speaker under shelf panel and
instan
four mounting screws.
(2) Connect speaker leads. or Left Soeaker)
Removal
(1) Remove the four speaker and grille mounting screws.
(2) Disconnect speaker lead and remove speaker.
Instullution
(1) Attach speaker lead to speaker and position speaker and grille on instrument panel.
(2) Install the screws. four speaker and grille attaching
SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM
INDEX
General Information
Installation
Removal
...........................
...................................
......................................
Page
6
10
10
Service Diagnosis
Test and Adjustments
.........................
Page
6
7
GENERAL INFORMATION
The speed control components (Fig. l), are a push button momentary contact switch which activates the speed-setting components, a rotary switch for “Re- sume” operation, a transmission driven servo gover- nor assembly which controls the throttle linkage and a combination electrical-vacuum brake switch which is used to deactivate the system when the brakes are applied. (The system may also be deactivated by ing the ignition key “OFF”’.)
turn-
The push button actuator (momentary contact switch) located at the end of the turn signal lever operates in three modes as follows:
(1) When the push button is fully depressed and released, current speed is locked-in.
(2) When engaged; holding the “Speed Set” button fully depressed causes car speed to drop until the button is released.
(3) When engaged; tapping the “Speed Set” button may increase the speed setting in small amounts.
The “Resume” speed operates
as
follows:
After the speed control system is engaged and the driver disengages the system by applying the brakes he can later resume his former speed by rotating the knurled plastic ring located near the end of the
turn
signal lever, clockwise and release.
Because of a low-rpeed inhibit switch locatad in tho servo governor, both the “Resume Speed” and normal system engagement cannot be initiated below approxi- mately 30 miles pew hour.
The speed regulator is linked with linkage through a flexible cable. the carburetor
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition Possible Cause ComctlOn
NOSPEEDCONTROL
WHEN BUITON PRESSED.
NO AUTO
RING
RESUME WHEN
IS ROTATED.
(a)
(b)
Fuse blown.
Faulty electrical
(c) Vacuum leak.
(d) Insufficient circuit brake switch clearance.
(a) Replace
(b) See fuse.
“Electrical Tests”.
(c) Check vacuum lines.
(d) Adjust brake switch. See “Tests and
Adjustments”.
(e) Speed control throttle cable discon- (e) Connect cable. nected.
(a)
(b)
Insufficient rotation of switch ring.
Faulty electrical circuit
(a) Rotate ring 35” to 50”.
(b) See “Electrical Tests”.
MyMopar.com
0
ACCESSORIES
1-7
Condition
NO AUTO RELEASE
WHEN BRAKE PEDAL
IS DEPRESSED.
SPEED CONTROL
ENGAGES WITHOUT
ACTUATING SWITCH.
CARBURETOR DOES NOT
RETURN TO NORMAL
IDLE.
SPEEDOMETER NOISE,
EXCESSIVE NEEDLE
WAIVER OR ERRATIC
SERVO LOCK-IN
PERFORMANCE.
SPEED SETTING AFTER
LOCK-IN, TOO HIGH OR
TOO LOW.
Possible Cause COfrOCtiOn
(a) Improper installation of brake switch. (a) Adjust brake switch. See “Tests and
Adjustments”.
(b) Closed off brake switch vacuum
(c) Faulty electrical circuit line. (b) Repair or replace vacuum
(c) See “Electrical Tests”. line.
(a) Faulty electrical circuit (a) See “Electrical Tests”.
(a) Speed control throttle cable malad- (a) Adjust speed control throttle cable. justed.
(b) Standard throttle linkage faulty. (b)
See “Tests and Adjustments”.
Repair or replace linkage.
(a) Speedo cable kinked or damaged. (a) Align cables to avoid sharp bends replace cable.
(b) Cable core bent or too long. (b) Replace core.
(c) Cable ferrule nut loose at speed- (c) Tighten cable ferrule ometer head, transmission or speed control servo.
(d) No lubrication on speedometer cable (d) Lubricate cables. core. nuts.
or
(e) Noisy speedometer head assembly. (e) Repair or replace the speedometer a s necessary.
(a) Improper speed control throttle cable (a) Adjust speed control throttle cable. adjustment.
(b) Vacuum leak. (b) Check all vacuum hose connections.
(c) Improper speed control lock-in adjust- (c) See “Lock-in Screw Adjustment”. ment.
(a) Insufficient brake switch clearance. (a) Adjust brake switch. UNIT DISENGAGES
ON ROUGH ROAD.
RESUME SPEED I S
POSSIBLE BELOW
20 M.P.H.
SPEED CONTROL
ENGAGES WHEN ENGINE
I S STARTED, OR DOES
NOT DISENGAGE WHEN
BRAKE PEDAL IS
DEPRESS ED.
(a) Improper low speed inhibit switch (a) See “Cut-in speed Adjustment“.
(b) adjustment.
Faulty electrical circuit. (b) See “Eelectrical Test”.
(a) Faulty electrical
(b) Vacuum hoses trol servo. circuit (a) See “Electrical Tests”. reversed at speed con- (b) Install hoses properly.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Test und Adjustments
A. Servo Adjustments
There are three adjustment set screws in the servo housing (Figs. 2, 3 and 4). The adjustments of these set screws have been factory set and under normal conditions there should be no need for altering the factory setting during the life of the vehicle. These screws should never be adjusted indiscriminately.
Need for adjustment can be determined only after accurate diagnosis of the Speed Control System oper- ation. If adjustment is found to be necessary perform appropriate adjustment outlined in steps 1, 2 and 3; if screw is loose, stake side of servo housing adjacent to screw to insure snug fit.
The function of the three adjustment screws is as follows:
(1) Lock-in.Screw Adjustment (Fig. 2) controls the accuracy of the speed control unit. When the direc- tion signal lever push button is depressed at speeds above approximately 30 M.P.H., the speed control system is activated, the system “locks in” and should hold the vehicle at virtually the same speed at which it is traveling when the push button is depressed.
IMPORTANT: Lock-in accuracy will be affected by:
(a) Poor engine performance (need for tune-up
&e.)
@) Power to weight ratio (loaded gross weight of car; trailering).
(c) Improper slack in throttle control cable, (See
“Throttle Control Cable Adiustment”).
After the steps (a) (b) and (c) have been considered and speed “sags” (drops) more than 2 to 3 M.P.H. when speed control is activated, the lock-in adjusting screw should be turned counter-clockwise (approxi- mately 1/4
turn
per one M.P.H. correction required).
If “pull-up” (speed increase) of more than 2 to 3 M.
MyMopar.com
0
1-8
ACCESSORIES
TON
(TURN KNOB) b j SWITCH:
WHEN BRAKES ARE APPLIED, SWITCH
OPENS VACUUM HOSE TO ATMOSPHERE,
WHICH DISENGAGES SPEED CONTROL
, r -
I I. I..,.
3 C K V U UNII.
(DIAPHRAGM FROM TRANSMISSION
NR393A
Fig. I-Speed Control Unit
P.H.
the lock-in adjusting screw should be turned clockwise approximately 1/4 turn per one
CAUTION: This adjustment must not exceed two turns in either direction or damage to unit may occur.
(2) Cut-in Speed Adjustment (Fig. 3) regulates the minimum road speed at which the low speed inhibit switch allows the speed control to be activated. This should range from 25 to 33 mile per hour. If cut-in speed is too low, turn the set screw counterclockwise.
If too high, turn the set screw clockwise; make ad- justments in 1/8 turn increments.
CAUTION: Total adjustment must not exceed two turns.
(3) System Cut-out Adjustment (Fig. 4) affects the road speed at which the system is deactivated during deceleration. Turning the screw clockwise increases road speed at which the speed control system deacti- vates (cuts out). A counterclockwise adjustment de- creases the cut out speed. The desired cut out speed should occur approximately 5 miles per hour below the cut-in setting; make adjustments in 1/8 turn in- crements.
CAUTION: Total adjustment must not exceod two turns.
B. Throttle Control Cable Adjustment
Optimum servo performance is obtained with a
I
4
I i
Fig. 2-Lock-in Screw Adjustment Fig. 3 4 l n - i n Screw Adjustment
MyMopar.com
0
ACCESSORIES 1-9
I
I
Fig. 4-cUt-Ovt Screw Adjustment given amount of free play in the throttle control cable. To obtain proper free play, insert a 1/16 inch diameter pin between forward end of slot in cable end and carburetor linkage pin (hair pin clip removed from carburetor linkage pin). (Fig. 5). With choke in full open position and carburetor at curb idle, pull back on cable (toward dash panel) without moving carburetor linkage until all free play is removed.
Tighten cable clamp bolt to 45 inch-pounds, remove
1/16 inch diameter pin and install hair pin clip.
C. Brake Switch Adiustment
(1) Disconnect harness connector at speed control servo and run a jumper wire from the blue wire ter- minal of connector to a good ground (Fig. 6). and release turn signal lever push button and check clearance between engaged actuator arm and striker pin on brake pedal (Fig. 7). Clearance should be .070 to .lo0 inch.
(3) If clearance is not between and .lo0 inch loosen striker pin attaching nut and move pin to ob- tain this clearance. Retighten nut securely, insuring that adjusted clearance is maintained.
Before making the low speed inhibit switch adjust- ments, check speedometer cables to assure proper
Fig. &Brake Switch Adjustment core length so that both cable drive ends are properly engaged in servo shaft keyways without binding. Also insure that cable ferrule nuts are properly positioned on servo pilot diameters and nuts properly tightened.
D. Electrical Test
(1) Check fuse for continuity.
(2) Low speed inhibit switch test.
Disconnect harness plug at servo and using 12 volt signal light connect one lead to low speed inhibit switch terminal on servo and one lead to 12 volt posi- tive source. Block front wheels; elevate rear wheels and drive vehicle wheels to approximately 30 miles per hour, switch should turn on between 25 and 33 mph and turn off approximately 5 miles per hour below the cut-in setting. See speed control adjust- ment directions to correct setting.
(3) Brake switch test:
Remove servo plug and attach jumper from blue wire lead in plug to good ground (Fig. 6), with igni- tion switch “On”, brake switch should energize and latch on when turn signal “Speed Set” button or ‘‘Re- sume Speed” switch is actuated. (When brake switch actuator arm is depressed to open position the brake switch should remain disengaged). If unit functions properly check low speed inhibit switch. If unit does not function check black lead to brake switch-black lead should have 12 volts positive when ignition switch is on. If brake switch does not energize with
“Speed Set” button or “Resume Speed” .switch but
Fig. 5-Serve Cable Throttle Adjustment Fig. 7-Checking Clapper and Striker Pin Clearance
MyMopar.com
1-10
ACCESSORIES
actuator arm to engaged position, check turn signal assembly switch.
(4) Turn signal switch assembly.
Disconnect brake switch harness plug, attach one lead from test light to good ground and one lead from test light to red lead in harness plug; with ignition switch “On” light should be on when either “Speed
Set” button is held depressed or “Resume” ring is rotated. Using 12 volt signal light connect one lead to yellow lead of servo plug (remove from servo first) and other lead to good ground. With ignition switch
“On” light should be on. When turn signal “Speed
Set” button is held depressed light should be off.
Speed Control Servo (Fig. 8 )
Removal
(1) Remove two self-locking nuts attaching the servo cable cover to servo housing pull cover away from servo to expose cable retaining clip (Fig. 9) and remove clip attaching cable to servo diaphragm pin.
Fig. 9-Removing or Installing Cable Cover nipple, (Fig. 10). Make sure hose clamp is locked securely.
CAUTION: Check vacuum hose routing from servo to brake release switch to insure freedom from any
“kinks“ or routing interference.
(3) Connect speedometer and transmission drive cables at servo.
(4) Align servo cable to servo pin and install re- taining clip.
(5) Install cable cover on servo studs and install at- taching nuts. Tighten nuts securely.
(6) Install electrical connector. cables at the servo housing.
(3) Disconnect vacuum hoses at servo housing (Fig.
10) and electrical connector.
(4) Remove servo from mounting bracket (two self- locking nuts). lnstallation
(1) install attaching nuts. Tighten 75 to 115 inch pounds.
Servo Cable Assembly (Servo to Carburetor)
Removal
(1) Remove air cleaner. the vacuum supply hose leading from brake booster or intake manifold is connected to the front servo
INTAKE MA clamp) and at carburetor linkage, removing hair pin clip.
(3) Disconnect cable at servo (Fig. 9) and remove cable assembly.
MANUAL^\
)J
AND LA. 318
MODELS WITH
BRAKE
ENGINE ONLY
(3) Route cable through retaining clamp and con-
?H nect at carburetor link lever pin.
BRACKET lnstallat ion
(1) Locate cable through routing brackets on dash panel and on master cylinder studs (power brakes, so equipped).
Q
NR480A
Fig. 8-Speed Control Servo Installution Fig. IO-Removing or Installing Servo Hoses
MyMopar.com
0
(4) Adjust cable free play as described under
“Throttle Control Cable Adjustment”.
(5) Install hair pin clip.
Speed Control Brake Switch (Vacuum
Release Valve)
Removal
(1) Disconnect battery cable at battery negative post.
(2) Remove the brake switch attaching screws and move switch forward to disconnect vacuum line at brake switch and electrical connections on harness. lnstallat ion
(1) Connect electrical connections at harness and vacuum line to brake switch.
(2) Position brake switch and install attaching screws. on mounting bracket
(3) Connect battery cable at battery negative post.
(4) Adjust clearance between brake switch actuator arm and striker pin as described under Tests and Ad- justments Paragraph C “Brake Switch Adjustment”.
Speed Control Switch (Turn Signal Lever)
Standard Steering Column
Removal
(1) Disconnect battery negative terminal at battery negative post.
(2) Remove horn button and horn ring (so equipped).
ACCESSORIES 1-1 1
19
(3) Remove steering wheel if required. See Group
“Steering”.
(4) Remove turn signal switch and lever attaching screw.
( 5 ) Remove steering column cover plate and sup port steering column while clamp is removed to p r a vent column from sagging.
(6) Remove wire harness trough to facilitate reach- ing the lower end of speed control switch lead wires
(Fig. 11) and cut wires at terminal clips.
(7) Turn direction indicator lever sideways and pull lever up and wires out through opening between column and tube.
Installation
(1) Before installing new switch, remove terminal clips from ends of lead wires.
(2) Make a guide wire and thread one wire at a time through the opening in column until the three wires have been threaded through the opening. Make guide wire long enough so that it can be reached at bottom of column before wire is attached to the upper hook. When all wires have been pulled through, in- stall new terminal clips. Install terminal clips into switch connector.
(3) Install harness trough, steering column cover plate and column support clamp.
(4) Install turn signal lever (speed control switch) and turn signal switch, plate and attaching screws.
(5) Install steering wheel (if previously removed)
-_---
SPEED CONTROL
TURN SIGNAL LEVER AND
SPEED CONTROL SWITCH
Fig. 1 1 --Turn Signal Switch and Lever Switch Installed
RESUME-SPEED
PUSH BUTTON
NR401
MyMopar.com
1-12
ACCESSORIES
horn button, steering column cover plate. See Group
19 “Steering”.
0
(6) Connect battery negative terminals at battery negative post.
TAIL GATE WIPER WASHER SYSTEM
INDEX
General Information
Intermediate Blade
Motor Pump
Page
...........................
12 Service Diagnosis
............................
..................................
13
13
Washer Reservoir
..............................
Wiper Blade-Replacement
....................
Page
12
13
12
GENERAL INFORMATION
The tail gate wiper washer system (Fig. 1) is a me- chanically activated squeegee wiper with an electric motor driven washer pump for applying water to the tail gate glass.
Operat
ion
The tail gate glass may be cleaned by:
(1) Lowering the glass by activating the tail gate switch.
(2) Activate the tail gate washer switch.
(3) Raising the glass by activating the tail gate switch. The wiped area is accomplished by using two
18” flexible wiper blades, end to end, and an inter- mediate blade. When the glass is lowered to its bot- tom position an actuator arm is activated by the reg- ulator sector gear which permits the spring loaded blades to move to an “on glass” position. When the glass is raised to its upper limit, the actuator arm is again activated causing the wiper blades to go to an
“off glass” position. This permits the blades to remain in the “off glass” (free) position until the glass is again lowered.
Washer fluid may be applied (as required) to the glass surface (with glass in lower position) by an elec- tric driven pump, supplying nozzle assemblies located inside the upper part of the tail gate.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition
INTERMIITENT
OPERATION
OF WASHER.
PUMP INOPERATIVE
MOTOR RUNS.
(a)
Possible Cause
Loose wiring connection.
(b)
(C)
Faulty washer push button switch.
Faulty motor.
(a)
(b)
(C)
Nozzle jets plugged.
Broken or loose hose.
Faulty pump.
PUMP ASSEMBLY
INOPERATIVE.
WIPER BLADES WILL
NOT GO ONTO GLASS.
WIPER BLADES WILL NOT
COME OFF OF GLASS.
UNWIPED STRIP IN
CENTER OF GLASS.
(a) Poor ground.
(b)
(C)
(d)
(e)
Loose wiring term ina Is.
Broken wires.
Faulty switch.
Faulty motor.
(a 1
(b)
Faulty actuator arm.
Torsion springs broken.
(a)
(b)
Faulty actuator arm.
Actuator pin loose.
(a)
(b)
Faulty or worn center blade.
Lack of blade pressure.
Correction
(a) Tighten connections and repair as necessary.
(b) Replace switch.
(c) Replace motor and pump assembly.
(a) Clean nozzle jets.
(b) Replace hose.
(c) Replace motor and pump assembly.
(a) Clean ground wire terminal and tight- en mounting screw.
(b) Tighten terminals.
(c) Repair or replace wires.
(d) Replace switch.
(e) Replace motor and pump assembly.
(a) Replace actuator arm.
(b) Replace springs.
(a) Replace actuator arm.
(b) Reinstall pin.
(a) Replace blade.
(b) Add spacers at top screws of regulator. two mounting
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Wiper Blade Replacement ( I 8 Inch Blades)
(1) Lower the tail gate glass to full bottom position.
(2) Open tail gate to horizontal position.
(3) Remove inner trim panel of tail gate.
(4) Raise glass approximately half way, after trip- ping limit switch.
MyMopar.com
0
WIPER BLADES
ACCESSORIES 1-13
NR488A
Fig. I - M l Gate Window Washer und Wiper System
(5) Position actuator arm for “off glass” condition of blades.
(6) Disengage glass lower frame with window reg- ulator arms, remove lower frame and remove glass.
(7) Scribe location of window regulator or tail gate inner panel mounting brackets and remove the four screws attaching the window regulator to the mount- ing brackets. Do not lose any spacers and note loca- tion. Slide the regulator assembly to bottom of tail gate.
(8) Depress locking tab on side of blade to release blades from mounting arm pins (Fig. 2).
(9) Install new blades with locking tab down. Do not get lubricant on wiper blades.
(10) Position window regulator on mounting brack- ets and install mounting spacers (if used) and screws noting scribe mark locations.
(11) Insert tail gate glass into tail gate, install glass lower frame and engage with regulator arms.
(12) Install tail gate inner panel.
(13) Lower glass to full bottom position and check operation of wiper blades. re- mounting screws. Do not get lubricant on wiper blades.
(6) bly.
Install wiper washer mounting bracket assem-
(7) Install wiper actuator arm, and position to “off glass” condition.
(8) Install wiper blade mounting arm and blades.
Do not get lubricant on wipem blades.
Washer Reservior
Pump Assembly
and/or
Motor
Removal
(1) Lower tail gate glass to bottom position and open tail gate to horizontal position.
(2) Remove tail gate inner trim panel.
(3) Raise glass sufficient to allow access to reservoir assembly.
CAUTION: Do not exceed normal height of glass travel.
(4) Remove washer hoses from both outlets at wash- er pump, being careful not to break outlets; identify hoses.
(5) Disconnect one wire to washer motor.
(6) Remove three mounting screws supporting res- ervoir and remove rubber filler hose at reservoir.
intermediate
Blade Replacement
(1) Perform steps 1 through 7 under “Wiper Blade
Replacement” and remove wiper mounting arm and wiper blades.
(2) Remove wiper actuator arm.
(3) Remove wiper washer mounting bracket.
(4) Remove two nuts, washers and screws and re- move intermediate wiper blade assembly (Fig. 2).
(5) Install new intermediate wiper blade with lnstallation
(1) Position reservoir and install mounting screws.
(2) Connect rubber filler hose at reservoir.
(3) Reconnect the wire at washer motor.
(4) Connect washer hose at washer pump, making
MyMopar.com
MyMopar.com
0
ACCESSORIES 1-15 sure hoses are routed to the carrect outlets.
( 5 ) Install tail gate inner panel.
(6) Lower tail gate glass to bottom position and re- check motor and pump operation.
After disconnecting the outlet hose and wire con- nector, remove the mounting screws from the mount- ing clips and remove the assembly from the vehicle for service.
Washer Nozzle Replacement
(1) Perform steps 1 through 7 under “Wiper Blade
Replacement”; then remove washer hose from nozzle.
(2) Remove the four screws mounting the two nozzle assemblies.
(3) Inspect and clean nozzles. Replace if nozzles are damaged.
(4) Position nozzles and install mounting screws.
( 5 ) Connect washer hose to nozzles.
(6) Perform steps 10 through 13 under “Wiper
Blade Replacement” and recheck nozzles operation.
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
To service the blower motor or fan, the assembly must be removed from the shelf panel from inside the luggage compartment.
Disassembly
(1) Remove the blower motor adapter plate to hous- ing mounting screws and withdraw motor and fan as- sembly from housing.
(2) Loosen fan set screw on fan hub and slide fan from motor shaft.
(3) Remove the motor adapter plate mounting nuts and separate motor from plate.
Assembly
(1) Position adapter plate on motor studs and in- stall the mounting nuts.
(2) Install fan on motor shaft and insert assembly in housing. Check fan to housing clearance and adjust if necessary.
(3) Install the blower motor adapter plate ing mounting screws. to hous-
MyMopar.com
c\
GROUP 2
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE
LOWER BALL JOINTS
LOWER CONTROL ARM AND SHAFT
LOWER CONTROL ARM STRUT
PR E-ALI G N M
E
NT
I
Height Adjustment
SPEC
I
FI CAT1 0 N S
......................
STEERING KNUCKLES
STEERING LINKAGE
SWAY BAR
Page
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
10
............................
8
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
.....
..........
10
..........
...................
4
13
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6
...................
..............
8
4
6
14
CONTENTS
TORSION BAR
Page
........................
5
UPPER BALL JOINTS
UPPER CONTROL ARM
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Camber
Caster
..................
...................
12
.................
11
3
.............................
3
Toe-in
..............................
3
Steering Axis Inclination
..............
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3
Toe-out On Turns (Turning Radius)
.....
3
3
GENERAL INFORMATION
The torsion bar rear anchors are integral with the engine rear support member and the front anchors, which are part of the lower control arms, provide the means of adjusting vehicle front height. The lower ball joints are integral with the steering arms. Com- pression type lower balljoints are used on all Models.
All ball joints and the torsion bars at the front of the rear anchors are effectively sealed against road splash by tightly fitted balloon type flexible seals. The ball joints and tie rod ends are of the semi-permanent lubricated type.
When re-lubrication of the ball joints and tie rod end assemblies is required remove the plugs and install a lubrication fitting. After the lubrication is completed reinstall the plugs.
Lower ball joints, steering arm assemblies, should not be replaced for looseness if the axial end play (Up and Down movement) is under .070 inch. Looseness of this nature i s not detrimental and will not affect front wheel alignment or vehicle stability.
Condition
FRONT END NOISE
Service replacement ball joints are equipped with a
"Knock-Off" type lubrication fitting. After lubrica- tion, knock off that portion of the fitting over which the lubrication gun was installed. A ball check is in- stalled in the remaining portion of the fitting t o pre- vent foreign materials from passing through.
The tie rod ends are serviced separately and should be inspected for damage at all oil change periods.
Caster and camber adjustments are controlled by cams on the upper control arm pivot bolts.
All front suspension points that contain rubber should be tightened while the suspension is at the specified height (see specifications), with full weight of vehicle on its wheels.
Rubber bushings should not be lubricated at any time.
ON MODELS EQUIPPED WITH DISC BRAKES, RE-
FER TO GROUP 5 FOR BRAKE DISC REMOVAL
AND INSTALLATION PROCEDURES.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause Correction
(a) Ball joint needs lubrication.
(b)
(a) Lubricate ball joint.
Shock absorber inoperative or bush- (b) Replace bushings, shock absorber or
(c)
(d)
(e)
(f)
(g)
(h)
( i )
(j)
(k)
(I) ings worn, or loose shock absorber tighten shock absorber mounting nuts. mounting.
Worn strut bushings.
Loose struts.
Loose steering gear ings.
Worn tie rod ends. on frame.
Worn upper control arm bushings.
Excessively worn upper ball joint.
Excessively worn lower ball joint.
(c) Replace bushing.
(d)
(f)
(h)
(i)
(j)
Inspect bushings and tighten nuts.
(e) Tighten steering gear mounting bolts.
Replace worn bushings.
Worn lower control arm shaft bush- (g) Replace worn bushings.
Replace ball joint.
Replace ball joint.
Replace tie rod end.
Loose or worn front wheel bearings. (k) Adjust or replace bearings a s strut neces- sary.
Steering arm contacting the control (I) Smooth off contacting areas and lu- arm wheel stops. bricate with a water resistant grease.
MyMopar.com
2-2
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE
Condition
POOR DIRECTIONAL
STABILITY
HARD STEERING
EXCESSIVE PLAY
IN STEERING
FRONT WHEEL
SHIMMY
VEHICLE PULLS TO
ONE SIDE
0
Possible Cause Correction
(a) Low or uneven tire pressure.
Loose wheel bearings.
(a) Inflate tires to correct pressure.
(b) Adjust wheel bearing.
Improper steering cross shaft adjust- (c) Adjust steering cross shaft. ment.
Steering gear not centered.
Worn idler arm bushing.
(d) Adjust steering gear.
(e) Replace bushing or idler arm as necessary.
Loose or failed front strut bushings. (f) Replace bushings.
Weak or broken rear spring.
Incorrect front wheel alignment
(g) Replace spring. suspension heights.
Shock absorber inoperative. or (h) Measure and adjust front wheel alignment and suspension heights.
(i) Replace shock absorber.
Un-horizontal center link (cocked) (j) Align steering gear or replace cross- member.
Ball joints need lubrication.
Low or uneven tire pressure.
Low power steering fluid level.
(a) Lubricate ball joints.
(b) Inflate tires to the recommended pressures.
(c) Fill power steering pump reservoir correct leve I. to
Lack of assist of power steering (d) Inspect and test power steering pump system. and gear. Service as required.
Low front suspension height. (e) Adjust heights to specifications.
Incorrect front wheel alignment (Par- (f) Replace bent parts and adjust front ticularly caster) resulting from a bent control arm steering knuckle or steer- wheel alignment. ing knuckle arm.
Steering gear not adjusted properly. (g) Adjust steering gear.
Idler arm binding. (h) Replace idler arm.
Worn or loose front wheel bearings.
Incorrect steering gear adjustment.
Loose steering gear to frame mount- i
Worn tie rod ends.
Worn steering gear parts.
Worn upper control arm ball joints.
Worn lower control arm ball joints.
Worn idler arm bushing.
(a) Adjust or replace wheel bearings as necessary.
(b) Adjust steering gear.
(c) Tighten steering gear to frame bolts.
(d) Replace tie rods as necessary.
(e) Replace worn steering gear parts and adjust steering gear as necessary.
(f) Replace ball joints.
(g) Replace ball joints.
(h) Replace bushing.
.
.
Unever tire wear, or excessively worn (b) Rotate or replace tires as necessary. tires.
Worn or loose wheel bearings.
(d) Worn tie rod ends.
(e) Strut mounting bushings loose or
(f)
Tire and wheel out of balance. car height (particularly caster).
(g) Upper ball joints loose or excessively worn.
(a)
(c) Replace or adjust wheel bearings.
(d) Replace tie rod ends.
(e) worn.
Incorrect front wheel alignment and (f) Adjust front wheel alignment and car
(gl
Balance wheel and tire assembly.
Replace strut mounting bushings. height.
Tighten to specifications as necessary. or replace
(a) Low or uneven tire pressure.
(b) Front brake dragging. (b) Adjust brakes.
(c) Grease, lubricant or brake fluid leak- (c) Replace brake shoe and lining or
(a) Inflate tires to the recommended pres- sure. rear (g) Replace spring. as ing onto brake lining.
(d) Loose strut bushings. necessary and eliminate all leaks.
(d) Inspect bushings and replace as necessary.
(e) Power steering control valve out of (e) Adjust steering gear control valve. adjustment.
(f) Incorrect front wheel alignment (par- (f) Adjust front wheel alignment ticularly caster).
(g) Broken or sagging front spring.
MyMopar.com
0
Condition
FRONT SUSPENSION AND
STEERING LINKAGE
2-3
Possible Cause Correction
(h) Excessively worn bushings.
suspension
pivot (h) Replace bushings.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Front wheel alignment is the proper adjustment of all the interrelated suspension angles affecting the running and steering of the front wheels of the ve- hicle. The importance of wheel alignment and wheel balancing is considered essential in order to main- tain ease of steering, good directional stability and to prevent abnormal tire wear.
Under every day driving conditions the front wheel alignment angles change and therefore it becomes necessary that every vehicle should have an align- ment check at least once a year. Such an inspection of the front suspension and steering components is a preventative maintenance service and also has a definite bearing on the safe operation of the vehicle.
The method of checking front wheel alignment will vary depending on the type of equipment being used. The instructions furnished by the manufacturer of the equipment should always be followed, with the exception that the specifications recommended by the Chrysler Motors Corporation be used.
There are six basic factors which are the founda- tion to front wheel alignment; height, caster, camber, toe-in, steering axis inclination and toe-out on turns
(Fig. 1). All are mechanically adjustable except steer- ing axis inclination and toe-out on turns. The latter two are valuable in determining if parts are bent or damaged particularly when the camber and caster adjustments cannot be brought within the recom- mended specifications.
Do not attempt to modify any suspension or rteer- ing components by heating or bending.
All adjustments should be made in the following sequence:
(a) Front suspension height
(b) Caster and Camber
(c) Toe in
(d) Steering Axis Inclination
(e) Toe-out on Turns.
Caster is the number of degrees of forward or backward tilt of the spindle support arm at the top.
Forward tilt of the spindle support arm at the top is negative caster. Backward tilt of the spindle support arm at the top from true vertical is positive caster.
Camber is the number of degrees the top of the wheel is tilted inward or outward from a true verti- cal. Inward tilt of the top of the wheel from true vertical is negative camber. Outward tilt of the wheel at the top is-positive camber. Excessive camber is a
SERVICE PROCEDURES tire wear factor; negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tire, while positive camber causes wear to the outside.
Toe-in is measured in inches and is the distance the leading edges of the tires are closer than the trailing edges. Toe-in is considered the most serious cause for excessive tire wear. Toe-in is the last of the alignment angles to be set in the front wheel alignment operation.
Steering Axis Inclination is measured in degrees and is the amount the spindle support center line is tilted from true vertical. It has a fixed relation- ship with camber settings and does not change except when a spindle or ball joint is damaged or bent.
This angle is not adjustable and damaged parts must be replaced,
Toe-out on Turns (Turning Radius) is measured in degrees and is the amount one front wheel turns sharper than the other on a turn. This angle is designed into the steering arms in relationship to the wheelbase of the vehicle and is not adjustable.
When checking the turning radius and it is found not
POSITIVE
CASTER
NEGATIVE
CASTER
FRONT OF CAR-
POSITIVE
CAMBER CAMBER
I
I STFERING AXIS INCLINATION
OE-OUT ON TURNS
WHEELS TURN
ABOUT COMMON
Fig. I-Wheel Alignment Factors
MyMopar.com
2-4
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE
Fig. 2-Measuring Front Suspension Height
0 to be within the recommended specifications, look for possible bent
or
damaged components.
PRE-ALIG N MENT INSPECTION
Before any attempt is made to change or correct the wheel alignment factors the following inspection and necessary corrections must be made on those parts which influence the steering of the vehicle.
(1) Check and inflate tires to recommended pres- sure. All tires should be same size and be in good condition and have approximately same wear. Note type of tire tread wear which will aid in diagnosing
(Group 22).
(2) Check and adjust front wheel bearings (Group
22).
(3) Check front wheel and tire assembly for radial and lateral runout (follow the Equipment Manu- facturers Instructions (Group 22).
(4) Check wheel and tire for unbalance conditions both static and dynamic which could affect steering.
(5) Inspect ball joints and all steering linkage pivot points for excessive looseness.
(6) Check shock absorbers for leaks and jounce vehicle to determine if shock absorbers have proper control.
(7) Check steering gear for roughness, binding or sticking condition and adjust as necessary.
(8) Check rear springs for cracks or broken leaves and
“U”
bolts for proper tightness and measure height differential between left and right sides of vehicle. (Vehicle should be on level floor or on align- ment rack) with a full tank of fuel and no luggage or passenger load.
(9) Front suspension heights must only be checked after the vehicle has the recommended tire pres- sures, full tank of fuel, no passenger load and is on a level floor or alignment rack.
To obtain accurate readings, vehicle should be jounced in following manner just prior to taking each measurement (Height
-
Caster
-
Camber and Toe):
Gras? bumpers at center (rear bumper first) and jounce up and down several times. Always release bumpers on the down cycle after jouncing both rear and front ends an equal number of times.
Height
Front suspension heights must be held to specifica- tions for a satisfactory ride, correct appearance, proper front wheel alignment and reduced tire wear.
The heights should only be measured after the ve- hicle has the recommended tire pressures, a full tank of fuel, no passenger or luggage compartment load and is on a level floor or alignment machine rack.
(1) Clean all foreign material from bottom of steer- ing knuckle arm assemblies and from lowest area of the height adjusting blades directly below center of lower control arm inner pivots.
(2) Jounce vehicle several times releasing it on downward motion.
(3) Measure distance from lowest point of one ad- justing blade to floor (Measurement A) and from low- est point of steering knuckle arm, at the centerline, on same side (Measurement B) to floor (Fig. 2). Meas- ure only one side at a time.
The difference between A and B (A always being greater than B) i s the front suspension height.
(4) Refer to Specifications and adjust if necessary by turning torsion bar adjusting bolt clockwise to in- crease height and counterclockwise to decrease height.
(5) After each adjustment, jounce vehicle before remeasuring. Both sides should be measured even though only one side has been adjusted.
(6) Measure other side in same manner. The maxi- mum allowable difference in suspension height from side to side is 1/8 inch on all Models.
Camber and Caster
Access holes to loosen upper control arm cam bolt nuts have been provided for in the fender side shields
(Fig. 3) of the Coronet model vehicles. The front access hole is made available by removing splash cov- er tapping screws and cover.
(1) Prepare vehicle for measuring wheel alignment.
(2) Remove all foreign material from exposed threads of cam adjusting bolts.
(3) Record initial camber and caster readings be- fore loosening cam bolt nuts.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT ADJUSTMENTS
Front wheel alignment settings must be held to specifications to hold tire wear to a minimum and to maintain steering ease and handling of vehicle.
The equipment manufacturers recommended pro- cedure should always be followed. Any parts of the front suspension system should be replaced if they are found to be bent. Do not attempt to straighten any bent part.
MyMopar.com
0
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE 2-5
SHOCK ABSORBER
Fig. 3-Access Opening in Fender Shield
(4) Camber settings should be held as close as pos- sible to the “preferred” setting. Caster should be held as nearly equal as possible on both wheels. See speci- fications at rear of group.
NRW
Fig. 4-Torsion Bar toward rear of torsion bar to allow sufficient room for striking the striking pad of tool. Do not apply heat to torsion bar, front anchor or rear anchor.
(6) Remove tool and slide rear anchor balloon seal from anchor to facilitate removal of torsion bar.
(7) Remove torsion bar by sliding bar out through rear of anchor. Use care not to damage balloon seal when it is removed from torsion bar.
Toe-In
The toe setting should be the final operation of the front wheel alignment adjustments. The front wheels must be in a straight ahead position. Follow the equipment manufacturers procedure. The steering wheel should also be centered during this operation.
Turning the tie rod sleeve will “center” the steer- ing wheel spokes. If the steering wheel was centered, make the toe-in adjustment by turning both sleeves an equal amount.
Tighten adjusting sleeve clamp bolt nuts 115 inch- pounds. Make sure clamp bolt nuts are on the bottom.
TORSION
BAR
The torsion bars are not interchangeable side for side. The bars are marked either right or left by an
“R” or an “L”
Inspection
(1) Inspect balloon seal for damage and replace if necessary.
(2) nicks. Dress down all scratches and nicks to remove sharp edges, then paint repaired area with a good rust preventa- tive.
(3) Remove all foreign material from hex openings in anchors and from hex ends of torsion bars.
(4) Inspect adjusting
I bolt and swivel and replace
Removal
(1)
(2) is to be raised on a hoist, make sure it is lifted on body only so that front suspension is in full rebound (under no load). If vehicle is to be raised on jacks, placed under center of crossmember it will be necessary that, a support first be placed between the crossmember and the jack.
(3) 4) by turning anchor adjusting bolt (Fig. 5) counterclock- wise.
(4) Remove lock ring from torsion bar rear an- chor (Fig. 4).
(5) Using Tool (3-3728, 5) from its anchors. It is advisable to place Tool (3-3728 Fig. 5-Removing Torsion Bar
MyMopar.com
2-6
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE
if any corrosion or for easy operation other damage is noted. Lubricate
0 prevent damage to brake hose when lower bolts are removed. lnstallat
ion lnstallation
(1) Position steering knuckle on brake support and install upper mounting bolts and nuts. Tighten nut finger tight only. toward rear of bar).
Mileage Lubricant or equivalent.
(4) Slide torsion bar into hex opening of lower con- trol arm.
(5) Install lock ring in rear anchor.
(6) Pack the annular opening in rear anchor com- pletely full of Multi-Mileage Lubricant or equivalent. so lip of seal engages with groove in anchor.
(8) Turn adjusting bolt clockwise to place a load on torsion bar.
(9) Lower vehicle to sion height. floor and adjust front suspen- tighten nut 200 inch-pounds. arm rebound bumper and
STEER IN
G
KNUCKLES
knuckle and install mounting bolts and nuts finger tight only. in steering knuckle and tighten ball joint stud nut 55 foot-pounds (Dart) and 100 foot-pounds (Coronet). Install cotter pin.
(4) Tighten steering knuckle upper bolt nuts 55 foot-pounds. Tighten lower bolt nuts 100 foot-pounds
(Dart) 120 foot-pounds (Coronet models).
( 5 ) Place a load on the torsion bar by turning ad- justing bolt clockwise.
(6) Install tie rod end in steering knuckle arm and install nut, tighten 40 foot-pounds and install cotter pin.
(7) Install wheel, tire and drum assembly and ad- just front wheel bearings (Group 22).
(8) Lower vehicle to floor and install upper control arm rebound bumper. Tighten nut 200 inch-pounds.
(9) Measure and adjust front suspension heights and wheel alignment as necessary.
ON MODELS EQUIPPED WITH DISC BRAKES, RE-
FER TO GROUP 5 FOR BRAKE DISC REMOVAL
AND INSTALLATION PROCEDURES.
Removal
Remove upper control arm rebound bumper.
(2) Raise vehicle so front suspension is in full re- bound (under no load).
STEERING LINKAGE
(Figs. 6,7)
The tie rod end seals should be inspected for damage at all oil change periods.
(4) Remove all load from torsion bar by turning adjusting bolt counterclockwise.
(5) Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle arm
Using To01 C-3894.
(6) Remove upper ball joint stud from steering knuckle using Tool C-3711. add approximately 7/16 inch of flat washers over lower ball joint stud to allow the use of Tool C-3711 without damaging threads on lower ball joint stud.
Place Tool C-3711 tool locking it securely against the upper stud (Fig.
17). To use Tool C-3711 sary to modify the tool (Fig. 19). Spread tool enough to place upper stud under a load, then strike steering knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen stud. Do not attempt to force stud out of steering knuckle with tool alone. two upper bolts attaching steering knuckle to brake support.
(8) Remove two lower bolts attaching steering arm to steering knuckle and remove steering knuckle.
Support the brake assembly during this operation to
Removal
Removal of tie rod ends from the steering knuckle arm or center link by methods other than using Tool
C-3894 will damage tie rod end seal.
When removing tie rod ends, idler arm or steering
' I
KNUCKLE
/
'\
(
Fig. 6-Stmring Linkage ( D a d )
NR373
MyMopar.com
O
CENTER LINK
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE
Sd2 e---
KNUCKLE ARM
,
TIE ROD END
2-7
F
**
’\
KNUCKLE
”/””
Fig. 6-Steering Linkage (Dart) gear arm, all seals should be closely inspected for wear or damage. The tie rod ends are of the permanently lubricated type. semi-
Damaged seals require removal of the seals and inspection of the tie rod assembly end at the throat opening. If the parts have not lost all the lubricant or are not contaminated, worn or rusted, use new seals and reinstall, otherwise, a new complete tie rod end assembly should be installed. Lubricate the tie rod end assembly with special long-life chassis greases such as Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number
2525035 intended for this purpose.
(1) Remove tie rod ends from steering knuckle arms (Fig. 8). Use care not to damage seals.
( 2 ) Remove inner tie rod ends from center link.
(3) Remove idler arm stud from center link.
(4) Remove idler arm bolt from crossmember. lnstullution
Replace all tie rod and steering
arm
assemblies that are damaged or worn.
(1) Position idler arm assembly in bracket and in- stall bolt. Tighten nut 65 foot-pounds and install cot- ter pin. gear arm studs and tighten nuts 40 foot-pounds. In- stall cotter pins.
(3) Connect tie rod ends to steering knuckle
arms
and centerlink. Tighten nuts 40 foot-pounds and in- stall cotter pins.
(4) Measure and adjust front wheel toe. link.
Fig. 7-Steering Linkage (Coronet-Charger)
(6) Remove steering gear arm.
Fig. 7-Steering Linkage (Coronet-Charger)
NK387
Fig. 8-Removing t i e Rod End Stud from
Steering Knuckle Arm
MyMopar.com
2-8
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE
RETAINER
INSULATOR
0
INSULATOR^
RETAINER-?
NUT-
NN43C
Fig. 9-Sway Bar Assembly (Dart)
SWAY BAR (Figs. 9, 10)
!
Removal-Dart-Coronet-Charger
(1) Loosen and remove upper link nut, retainer and rubber insulator on both sides.
(2) Loosen and remove bolts attaching both brack- ets to front crossmember. insulators and remove bracket. links from lower control arm
(5) If the rubber insulator bushings show exces- sive wear or deterioration of rubber, install new bushings.
The sway bar cushions are not serviced separately.
If replacement is necessary, install a new sway bar assembly.
S T ~ U T KNUCKLE ARM
NR362
Fig. I 1 -Lower Control Arm (Dart) lnstallat ion-Dart-Coronet -Charger
(1) Position link with retainer and rubber insula- tor in lower control arm bracket, followed by rubber insulator and retaicer (concave side toward rubber insulator) and nut. Tighten nut to 100 inch-pounds.
(2) Position sway bar assembly in vehicle and in- stall attaching bolts and nuts and tighten to 200 inch- pounds.
(3) Install retainer on link, followed by rubber insulator and sway bar. Using a screwdriver or pinch bar between strut and sway bar, if necessary apply pressure and install upper rubber insulator, retainer and nut, tighten nuts 100 inch-pounds.
LOWER CONTROL ARM AND SHAFT
(Figs. 11, 12)
Removal
ON MODELS EQUIPPED WITH DISC BRAKES, RE-
FER TO GROUP 5 FOR BRAKE DISC REMOVAL
AND INSTALLATION PROCEDURES.
(1) Remove the wheel, tire and drum as an as- sembly.
(2) Remove lower shock absorber attaching bolt and push up and out of way, and remove torsion bar from lower control arm.
(3) Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle arm using Tool C-3894 8). Use care not to damage seal. arm.
(5) Remove steering knuckle arm to brake support bolts and remove steering knuckle arm. Move brake support assembly out of way.
NP341C
Fig. IO-Sway Bar Assembly (Coronet-Charger)
NR361 S T ~ U T KNUCKLE ARM
Fig. 12-Lower Control Arm (Coronet-Charger)
MyMopar.com
0
#
I
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE
(6) Remove ball joint stud from lower control arm using Tool C-3964 (Fig. 13). The bottom portion of tool must be positioned between seal and control arm to avoid seal damage.
(7) Remove strut spring pin, front nut and bushing retainer (Fig. 11) from forward end of cross-member.
(8) Remove nut and washer from lower control arm shaft.
(9) Tap end of lower control arm shaft with a “soft end” hammer to aid in removal of shaft from cross- member.
(10) Remove lower control arm, shaft and strut as an assembly.
(11) Remove strut bushing from crossmember only if damaged; replace bushing. All models (except Dart) use a two piece bushing and sleeve arrangement (Fig.
14).
(12) Remove strut bushing inner retainer from strut.
Disassembly
(1) Place strut portion of control arm assembly in a vise and remove strut nut.
(2) Remove strut from control arm.
(3) Remove torsion bar adjusting bolt and swivel.
(4) Place lower control arm assembly in an arbor press with torsion bar hex opening up and with a support under outer edge of control arm.
(5) Place a brass drift into hex opening and press shaft out of lower control arm. The bushing inner shell will remain on shaft.
(6) Cut and remove rubber portion of bushing from control arm shaft.
(7) Remove bushing outer shell by cutting with a chisel. Use care not to cut into control arm.
(8) Remove bushing inner shell from pivot shaft.
Cut off if necessary.
Assem b
(1)
I
Position new bushing on shaft (flange end of bushing first) press shaft into inner sleeve until bush-
Fig. 13-Removing Lower Ball Joint Stud (Dart)
NN47
2-9
Fig. 14-Strut Crossmember Bushings
(Coronet-Charger) ing seats on shoulder of shaft.
(2) Press shaft and bushing assembly into lower control arm using Tool (2-3848 and an arbor press.
In some instances it may be necessary to reduce the diameter of shaft shoulder to facilitate use of tool.
(3) Install torsion bar adjusting bolt and swivel. nut 100 foot-pounds. lnst allation
(1) On Dart models, install new strut bushing in crossmember with a twisting motion. Water may be used as a lubricant to aid in installation. Do not use oil or grease.
(2) Place strut bushing inner retainer on strut and install lower control arm, shaft, and strut assembly.
Install strut bushing outer retainer and nut finger tight only.
(3) On Coronet models, position front strut bush- ing half and sleeve into crossmember. Place rear re- tainer and rear strut bushing on strut and position control arm, shaft and strut assembly into cross- member. Install strut bushing outer retainer and nut finger tight only.
(4) Install lower control arm shaft washer and nut finger tight only.
(5) Position lower baIl joint stud into lower control arm and tighten nut 100 foot-pounds, and install cotter pin.
(6) Position brake support on steering knuckle and install two upper bolts and nuts finger tight only.
(7) Position steering knuckle arm on steering knuckle and install two lower bolts and nuts.
(8) Tighten upper bolt nuts 55 foot-pounds. Tighten lower bolt nuts 100 foot-pounds (Dart) 120 foot- pounds (Coronet).
(9) Inspect tie rod end seal and replace if damaged.
Connect tie rod end to steering knuckle arm and tighten nut 40 foot-pounds and install cotter pin.
(10) Connect shock absorber to control arm and tighten finger tight only. (Dart install bolt from rear only).
(11) Install wheel, tire and drum assembly and ad-
‘
MyMopar.com
2-10
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE
just front wheel bearing (Group 22).
(12) Lower vehicle to floor, adjust front suspension heights and tighten strut nut, at crossmember 40 foot- pounds and install strut pin Dart (50 foot-pounds
Coronet-Charger). Tighten shock absorber nut 50 foot- pounds.
(13) Tighten lower control arm shaft nut 130 foot- pounds, and tighten shock absorber lower bushings to 50 foot-pounds.
(14) Measure and adjust front wheel alignment as necessary.
0 install dial indicator and clamp assembly to lower control arm (Fig. 15).
(3) Position dial indicator plunger tip against ball joint housing assembly and zero dial indicator.
(4) Measure axial travel of the ball joint housing arm with respect to the ball joint stud, by raising and lowering the wheel using a pry bar under the center of the tire.
(5) If during measurement you find the axial travel of the housing arm is .070” or more, relative to the ball joint stud, the ball joint should be replaced.
LOWER CONTROL
ARM
STRUT
Removal
(1) Remove lower control arm, shaft and strut as an assembly.
(2) Remove nut holding strut to lower control arm and remove strut from control arm.
(3) Inspect strut bushings (Fig. 14). If bushings are worn or deteriorated, install new bushings.
Installation
(1) Install new strut bushings, if necessary.
(2) Position strut into control arm and tighten nut
100 foot-pounds.
(3) Position strut bushing inner retainer and strut rear bushing on strut and position lower control arm shaft and strut assembly into crossmember. Install strut front bushing, sleeve and retainer. Tighten nut finger tight only.
(4) Install control arm pivot shaft washer and nut finger tight only.
(5) Connect shock absorber to lower control arm and tighten nut finger tight only.
(6) Lower vehicle to floor so full weight is on its wheels.
(7) Adjust front suspension heights to specifica- tions.
(8) Tighten front strut nut to 40 foot-pounds Dart,
(50 foot-pounds Coronet-Charger) and install spring pin. Tighten pivot shaft nut 130 foot-pounds. Tighten shock absorber nut 50 foot-pounds.
(9) Adjust front wheel alignment as necessary.
Removal
The lower ball joint is integral with the steering arm and is not serviced separately. Compression type lower ball joints are used on all models.
(1) Remove upper control arm rebound bumper.
(2) Raise vehicle
so
front suspension is in full re- bcymd. Remove all load from torsion bar by turning adjusting bolt counterclockwise. If jacks are used to raise vehicle it is essential that a support be used between the crossmember and jack.
(3) Remove wheel, tire and drum as an assembly. It may be necessary to back-off the brake shoes to facili- tate removal of drum assembly.
(4) Remove two lower bolts from the brake support attaching steering arm and ball joint assembly to steering knuckle.
(5) Remove tie rod end from steering arm using
Tool C-3894. Use care not to damage seal.
(6) Using Tool C-3964 remove ball joint stud from lower control arm (Fig. 13), and remove steering arm and ball joint assembly.
Installation
(1) Place a new seal over ball joint and using Tool
C-4039 press retainer portion of seal down on ball joint housing until it is securely locked in position.
(2) Position steering arm and ball joint assembly on
LOWER BALL JOINTS
ON MODELS EQUIPPED WITH DISC BRAKES, RE-
FER TO GROUP S FOR BRAKE DISC REMOVAL
AND INSTALLATION PROCEDURES.
Inspection
(1) Raise the front of vehicle and install safety floor stands under both lower control arms as far outboard as possible. The upper control arms must not contact the rubber rebound bumpers.
(2) With the weight of vehicle on the control arm,
Fig. 15-Measuring Lower Ball Joint Axial travel
MyMopar.com
0 steering knuckle and install two mounting bolts.
Tighten nuts 100 foot-pounds (Dart), 120 foot-pounds
(Coronet).
(3) Insert ball joint stud into opening in lower con- trol arm.
(4) Install stud retaining nut and tighten 100 foot- pounds, (Dart and Coronet models). Install cotter pin and lubricate ball joint, see Lubrication Section Group
“0”.
(5) Inspect tie rod seal for damage and replace if damaged. Connect tie rod end to steering knuckle arm, tighten nut 40 foot-pounds, and install cotter pin.
(6) Place a load on torsion bar by turning adjusting bolt clockwise.
(7) Install wheel, tire and drum assembly and ad- just front wheel bearing (Group 22).
(8) Lower vehicle to floor, install upper control arm rebound bumper and tighten nut 200 inch-pounds.
(9) Measure front suspension height and adjust if necessary.
(10) Measure front wheel alignment and adjust if necessary.
UPPER CONTROL ARM (Figs. 16, 17)
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE
Removal and Disassembly
(1) Place a jack under lower control arm as close to wheel as possible and raise vehicle until wheel clears floor.
(2) Remove wheel and tire as an assembly.
(3) Remove upper and lower ball joint stud using
Tool (2-3711. On Dart models, it may be necessary to add approximately 7/16 inch of flat washers over lower ball joint stud to allow the use of Tool C-3711 without damaging threads on lower ball joint stud.
Place Tool (2-3711 over stud. Turn threaded portion of tool locking it securely against the upper stud (Fig.
18).
To use Tool C-3711 as outlined, it may be necessary to modify the tool (Fig. 19).
(4) Spread tool enough to place upper stud under a
JOINT
CAM ASSEMBLY
BUSH IN G
2-11
FWD.
AL
E9
CONTROL ARM
KNUCKLE
W %
ND55C
Fig. 17-Upper Control Arm (Coronet-Charger) load, then strike steering knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen stud. Do not attempt to force stud out of steering knuckle with tool alone.
(5) Remove nuts, lockwashers, cams and cam bolts attaching upper control arm and bushings (Figs. 16,
17), to support brackets. Lift control arm up and away from support.
(6) Remove ball joint (Fig. 20) using Tool C-3714
(Tool C-3560 Coronet). The seal will come off as ball joint is removed.
(7) Assemble Tool C-3710A over bushing and press bushing out of arm (from inside out) (Fig. 21). To remove upper control arm rear bushing support sleeve (used on Dart models with 10 inch front brakes and Coronet police and taxi application) assemble
Tool C-371OA, using adaptor SP-3826 in place of adap- tor SP-3088, over bushing and press bushing out of arm (Fig. 21).
Assembly
When installing new bushings, be sure control arm
CAM ASSEMBLC
.
SEAL
Fig. 16-Upper Control Arm (Dart)
54D
Fig. 18-Removing Upper Ball Joint Stud (Dart)
MyMopar.com
2-12
FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING LINKAGE
0
A. REMOVE 1/16 INCH FROM LOWER PART OF TOOL.
B. ROUND OFF PORTION OF THE TOOL THAT IS
POSITIONED NEXT TO THE STEERING KNUCKLE ARM.
ND127
Fig. 19--tool C-37 1 1 Modified is supported squarely at point where bushing is being pressed in. Do not use oil or grease to aid in instal- lation.
(1) Position flange end of new bushing in Tool C-
3710A, support control arm squarely, and press bush- ings into control arm (from outside) until tapered portion of bushing seats on the arm. On Dart models with 10 inch front brakes and Coronet police and taxi application, (using bushing support sleeve) remove
Tool C-3710A after bushing has been installed and in- stall adaptor SP-3827 in place of SP-3233A cup on tool and install support sleeve on rear bushing only (Fig.
22).
(2) Install ball joint into arm using Tool C-3714
(Tool (2-3560 Coronet). Tighten until seated (125 foot- pounds minimum). The ball joint will cut threads into a new arm during tightening operations.
(3) Install a new ball joint seal using a 2” socket, making sure it is seated fully on ball joint housing.
On Dart Models install seal using Tool C-4039.
ND 64
Fig. 2 1 -Removing Upper Control Arm Bushing lubricate ball joint. Tighten lower stud nut 100
foot-
pounds.
(3) Install wheel and tire. Adjust wheel bearing
(Group 22).
(4) Measure and adjust vehicle height and wheel alignment. Tighten cam bolt nuts 65 foot-pounds.
UPPER BALL JOINTS
ON
MODELS EQUIPPED WITH DISC BRAKES, RE=
FER TO GROUP 5 FOR BRAKE DISC REMOVAL
AND INSTALLATION PROCEDURES. installation
(1) Slide control arm into position and install cam bolts, cams, washers and nuts (Figs. 16 and 17).
Tighten nuts in preparation for final adjustments.
(2) Slide upper ball joint stud into position in steer- ing knuckle and install nut. Tighten nut 100 foot- pounds, (Dart 55 foot-pounds). Install cotter pin and
SLEEVE
Fig. 20-Removing or Installing Upper Ball Joint
I
NH153A
Fig. 22-Installing Support Sleeve on Bushing
MyMopar.com
0
SPEC FI CAT1 0 N S 2-1 3
Removal
(1) Raise vehicle by placing a jack under lower con- trol arm as close as possible to wheel.
(2) Remove wheel, tire and drum.
(3) On
Dart
and Coronet Models, remove upper and lower ball joint stud nuts using Tool (2-3711. On
Dart models, it will be necessary to add approximately
7/16" of flat washers over lower ball joint stud to allow the use of Tool C-3711 without damaging threads on lower ball joint stud. Place Tool C-3711 over studs.
Turn threaded portion of tool locking it securely against upper stud (Fig. 18). To use Tool C-3711 as outlined it will be necessary to modify it, as shown in
Figure 19. to place upper stud under a load, then strike steering knuckle sharply with a hammer to loosen stud. Do not attempt to force stud out of steering knuckle with tool alone.
(5) Remove tool, then remove ball joint stud from steering knuckle.
(6) Using Tool C-3560, (Tool (2-3714 Dart) unscrew ball joint from upper control arm (Fig. 20). The seal will come off as ball joint is being removed. lnsfallution
When installing a ball joint, make certain the ball joint threads engage those of the control arm square- ly if original arm is being used. Balloon type seals should always be replaced once they have been re- moved.
(1) Screw ball joint squarely into control arm as far as possible by hand.
(2) Using Tool (2-3560 (Tool C-3714 Dart) tighten ball joint until it bottoms on housing. Tighten to a minimum of 125 foot-pounds.
If ball joint cannot be torqued to 125 foot-pounds, inspect threads on ball joint and also in control arm and replace as necessary.
(3) Position a new seal over ball joint stud and in- stall using a 2" socket making sure it is seated fully on ball joint housing. On Dart Models, install seal using Tool C-4039.
(4) Position ball joint stud in steering knuckle and install a retaining nut.
(5) Tighten nut 100 foot-pounds, (Dart 55 foot- pounds). Install cotter pin, lubricate ball joint.
(6) Install lower ball joint stud nut and tighten
100 foot-pounds.
(7) Install wheel, tire and drum assembly and adjust front wheel bearings (Group 22).
(8) Lower vehicle and adjust front suspension height.
SP ECI FICATI
0
CAM BER-Left
-Right
.................................................
................................................
CASTER-Ma n ua I Steering
-Power Steering
......................................
.......................................
HEIGHT (inches) Standard & Heavy Duty
Side to Side Difference (Maximum)
STEERING AXIS INCLINATION
........................
......................
TOE-IN
When
........................................................
TOE-OUT ON TURNS
Inner
TORSION BARS-Lennth
-Rear
20"
(inches)
-Diafieter (inches)
Std. Suspension (6 cyl.)
W/Air Conditioning
273 C.
Station Wagons
TREAD (i nchesl-Fron t
.............................
W/Air Conditioning
318, 340 C. I. Engine
383C. I.
I. outer wheel is
Engine
Engine
Police, 426 & 440 Engine
Heavy Duty Suspension
WHEEL BASE
Wheel is
(inches)
........................
...............................
......................
..........................
..........................
.........................
..............................
......................
..............................
..........................................
..........................................
Dart Coronet
+1/4O to +3/4O (+1/2" preferred)
0"
0" to +1/2" (+1/4" preferred) to -1" (-1/2" preferred)
+
1/4" to
+
1-1/4" (+3/4" preferred)
2-1 / 8 e / 8 1-7/8+1/8
1/8
7-1/2'
3/32 to 5/32 inch (1/8 preferred)
17.6"
35.8
0.83
0.85
0.85
0.87
0.87
0.89
-
0.87
-
57.5
55.5
111
17.8"
41
0.86
0.86
0.88
0.88
0.88
0.88
0.92
0.90
0.86
59.5
59.2
117
MyMopar.com
2-14 TIGHTENING REFERENCE 0
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
Coot Inch
Ball Joint-Upper
N ut-Lower
-Upper (Except Dart)
(Dart)
Control Arm
Pivot Shaft Nut
...................
Rebound Bumpers
Crossrnernber Bolts
Engine Mounting Bolts
Idler Arm Stud Nuts at Center Link
...................
.................
.................
.................... a t Mounting Bracket
Shock Absorber Nu&-Front
Lower
Upper
..........
..............
............................
Steering Gear Mounting Bolts
........
Pounds
125
100
100
55
130
150
85
40
65
50
25
80
Steering Knuckle Bolt Nuts
Lower (Coronet)
...................
120
(Min.)
200
Foot Inch
Upper
Strut Nuts
Front (Dart)
Rear
(Dart)
(Disc Brakes)
......................
(Coronet-Charger)
.............................
Sway Eliminator Shaft
...............
Frame Bracket Bolt Nut (Dart)
Link Insulator Retainer Bolt Nut
Link to Frame Bracket Nut
.....
........
............
Pounds
100
115
55
40
50
100
Tie Rod Ends
Sleeve Clamp Bolt Nut
Stud Nuts
........................
40
Wheel Nuts
Except Dart
Dart
.......................
65
55
200
100
100
115
MyMopar.com
0
G R O U P
3
REAR AXLE
CONTENTS
Page
REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY
(7%")
RING GEAR
2
SPECIFICATIONS
REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY (83h") RING GEAR 12 SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL
REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Page
......................
46
(9Y4")
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
.................. 1
.............
43
.............
48
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
REAR WHEEL NOISE
SCORING
Ccndition
OF
DIFFERENTIAL GEARS
AND PINIONS
TOOTH BREAKAGE (RING
GEAR AND PINION)
REAR AXLE NOISE
Possible Cause Correction
(a) Wheel loose.
(b) Spalled wheel bearing cup or cone.
(c) Defective, brinelled wheel bearing.
(a) Tighten loose wheel nuts.
(b) Check rear wheel bearings. If spalled or worn, replace.
(c) Defective or brinelled bearings must be replaced. Check rear axle shaft end play.
(d) Readjust axle shaft end play.
(e) Replace bent or sprung axle shaft.
(d) Excessive axle shaft end play.
(e) Bent or sprung axle shaft flange.
(a) Insufficient lubrication.
(b) Improper grade of lubricant
(c) Excessive spinning of one wheel.
(a) Overloading.
(b) Erratic clutch operation.
(c) Ice-spotted pavements.
(d) Improper adjustment.
(a) Replace scored gears. Scoring marks on the pressure face of gear teeth or in the bore are caused by instan- taneous fusing of the mating surfaces.
Scored gears should be replaced. Fill rear axle to required capacity with proper lubricant.
See Specification section.
(b) Replace scored gears. Inspect all gears and bearings for possible drm- age. Clean out and refill axle to re- quired capacity with proper lubricant.
See Lubrication section.
(c) Replace scored gears. Inspect all gears, pinion bores and shaft for scoring, or bearings for possible dam- age. Service as necessary.
(a) Replace gears. Examine other gears and bearings for possible damage.
Replace parts as needed. Avoid Over- loading.
(b) Replace gears, and examine remain- ing parts for possible damage. Avoid erratic clutch operation.
(c) Replace gears. Examine remaining parts for possible damage. Replace parts as required.
(d) Replace gears. Examine other parts for possible damage. Make sure ring gear and pinion backlash is correct.
(a) Insufficient lubricant.
(b) Improper ring gear and pinion adjust- ment.
(c) Unmatched ring gear and pinion.
(d) Worn teeth on ring gear or pinion.
(a) Refill rear axle with correct amount of the proper lubricant. See Specifica- tion section. Also check for leaks and correct as necessary.
(b) Check ring gear and pinion tooth contact.
(c) Remove unmatched ring gear and pinion. Replace with gear and pinion set. a new matched
(d) Check teeth on ring gear and pinion for contact. If necessary, replace with new matched set.
MyMopar.com
3-2
REAR
AXLE
d
Condition
LOSS OF LUBRICANT
OVERHEATING OF UNIT
Possible Cause Correction
(e) End play in drive pinion bearings.
(f) Side play in differential bearings.
(e) Adjust drive pinion bearing preload.
(f) Adjust differential bearing preload.
(g) Sure-Grip Differential moan and chat- (g) Drain and flush lubricant. See proce- ter. dure in Sure-Grip section of Group 3.
(a) Lubricant level
too
high.
(b) Worn axle shaft oil seals.
(a) Drain excess lubricant by removing filler plug and allow lubricant to level a t lower edge of filler plug hole.
(b) Replace worn oil seals with new ones.
Prepare new seals before replacement.
(c) Cracked rear axle housing.
(d) Worn drive pinion oil seal.
(c) Repair or replace housing as required.
(d) Replace worn drive pinion oil seal with a new one.
(e) Scored and worn companion flange. (e) Replace worn or scored companion
(f) Clogged vent. flange and oil seal.
(f) Remove obstructions.
(g) Loose carrier housing bolts or hous- (g) Tighten bolts or cover screws to ing cover screws. specifications and fill to correct level with proper lubricant.
(a) Lubricant level too low.
(b) Incorrect grade of lubricant
(a) Refill rear axle.
(b) Drain, flush and refill rear axle with correct amount of proper lubricant
See Specification Section.
(c) Readjust bearings. (c) Bearings adjusted too tightly.
(d) Excessive wear in gears. ance.
(d) Check gears for excessive wear or scoring. Replace as necessary.
(e) Insufficient ring gear to pinion clear- (e) Readjust ring gear and pinion back- lash and check gears for possible scoring.
REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY
7%”
R I N G GEAR
INDEX
Axle Shafts and Bearings
Differential
......................
...................................
Drive Gear and Pinion Backlash
Drive Pinion Depth of Mesh
................
....................
Pinion Bearing Cup Installation
3
5
9
8
................
7
GENERAL INFORMATION
Pinion Installation and Bearing Preload
Rear Axle Assembly
Removal
Lubrication
............................
Pane
........
-8
4
....................................
4
Installation
.................................
...................................
11
12
The 7-1/4” Rear Axle Assembly shown in (Fig. 11, is a semi-floating type which incorporates a unitized rear axle housing assembly. The drive pinion and the dserential case with drive gear are mounted directly into the center section of the rear axle housing as- sembly. Access t o the differential, drive gears and bearings is o b e e d by removal of the carrier cover.
Axle shaft bearings, oil seals and drive pinion oil seal can be removed and serviced without removing the complete axle assembly from the vehicle, but the unit should be removed for any additional operations.
A Sure Grip DiBEerential is available in the 7-1/4”
Axle Assembly, similar to those used in the 8-3/4” axle. Refer to the Sure Grip DifTerential Section of the
Axle Group for the Servicing procedure.
All Coronet 6 cylinder models except station wagons, taxi and police application are equipped with the 7-1/4” diameter axle assembly, that has been widened to the Coronet rear track. All service will be performed the same as standard 7-1/4” diameter axle, except where noted in the service procedure.
A hooded breather has been attached to the left leg of the axle housing approximately 15” inboard of the flange face. Gear ratio identification is stamped on the front face of the pad at the bottom of housing.
SHOULD THE REAR AXLE BECOME SUBMERGED
IN WATER, THE LUBRICANT MUST BE CHANGED
IMMEDIATELY TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF
EARLY AXLE FAILURE RESULTING FROM CON-
TAMINATION OF THE LUBRICANT BY WATER
DRAWN INTO THE VENT HOLE.
MyMopar.com
0
SHAFT RETAINER
REAR
AXLE 3-3
GEAR AND PINION
CONE AND ROLLERS
NY1606D
CONE AND ROLLERS
AXLE SHAFTS AND BEARINGS
SERVICE PROCEDURES
CAUTION: It is absolutely necessary that anytime an axle assembly is serviced, and the axle shaft is loos- e n d and removed, both brake support plate gaskets and the inner axle shaft seal must be replaced.
Removal and Disassembly
(1) With wheels removed, remove clips holding brake drum on axle shaft studs and remove brake drum.
(5) Remove axle shaft oil seal from housing.
CAUTION: Under no circumstances should axle shaft collars or bearings be removed using a torch.
The use of a torch in the removal of the axle shaft collars o r bearings is an unsafe practice, because heat is fed into the axle shaft bearing journal and, thereby weakens this area.
(6) Position axle shaft bearing retaining collar on a heavy vise or anvil and using a chisel cut deep grooves into retaining collar at 90" intervals (Fig. 3).
This will enlarge bore of collar and permit it to be driven off of axle shaft. The bearing can now be retainer nuts.
(4) Attach axle shaft remover tool C-3725 shaft flange and remove axle shaft. Remove brake assembly (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2-Removing Axle Shaft Fig. %Removing Axle Shaft Collar
MyMopar.com
3-4
REAR AXLE
-3926
0
C-3725
NK366
Fig. 4-Remoi ig Axle Shaft Bearing
NK391 A removed using tool (2-3725 and C-3926 (Fig. 4).
On Coronet models equipped with 7-1/4 inch axle assembly to remove bearing use tool C-3971 and adapter C-4OOO and protective sleeve over bearing race. Tool must be installed with two bolts (Fig. 5) on each side of the hole in axle shaft flange.
Assembly
(1)
and
Installation
Install axle shaft retainer plate, bearing, and bearing retainer collar on axle shaft. The axle shaft bearing and bearing retainer collar must fit tightly on bearing journal of axle shaft. Using tool C-3725 and
C-3926 press them into place by tightening bolts in tool alternately (Fig. 6). Coronet models equipped with 7-1/4 inch axle, install bearings and retainer col- lars using Tool C-3971 and adapter C4000.
(2) Install new axle shaft oil seals in axle housing, using tool C-3734 (Fig. 7).
(3) Apply a light
film
of Multi-purpose Lubricant
Fig. 6-Installing Rear Axle Shaft Bearing
NLGI grade 2 EP on outside diameter of bearing to prevent rust and corrosion.
(4) Install a foam gasket on studs of axle housing and position brakes support plate assembly on axle housing studs.
(5) Carefully slide axle shaft assembly through oil seal and engage splines in differential side gear.
(6) Tap end of axle shaft lightly with a non-metal- lic mallet to position axle shaft bearing in housing bearing bore. Position retainer plate over axle, hous- ing studs. Install retainer nuts and tighten 35 foot- pounds.
REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY
Removal
Should it become necessary to remove rear axle assembly for overhaul or repair, proceed as follows:
(1) Raise rear of vehicle until rear wheels clear floor. Support body at front of rear springs.
(2) Block brake pedal in the up position using a wooden block.
(3) Remove rear wheels.
(4) Disconnect hydraulic flexible line.
(5) Disconnect parking brake cable.
NK365
Fig. 5-Tool C-3725 Installed on Axle Shaft
TOOL
Fig. 7-Installing Axle Shaft Oil Seal
N Y 1023
MyMopar.com
0
To maintain proper drive line balance when reas- sembling, make scribe marks on the propeller shaft universal joint and the pinion flange before removal.
(6) Disconnect propeller shaft at differential pinion yoke and secure in an upright position to prevent damage to front universal joint. and loosen rear spring “U” bolts.
REAR AXLE
TOOLS
3-5
DIFFERENTIAL
Removal and Disassembly
Side play and runout checks taken during disas- sembly will be very useful in reassembly. drain lubricant from housing. vent, clean inside the axle housing and differential case and drive gear assembly. screwdriver or pinch bar between left side of axle housing and differential case flange, then using a prying motion determine if side play is present.
THERE SHOULD BE NO SIDE PLAY.
(4) In preparing to measure drive gear runout on differential case, (provided no side play was found) mount a dial indicator tool C-3339 on pilot stud C-
3288, and load the indicator stem slightly when plunger is at right angles to back face of drive gear
(Fig. 8). gear several complete revolutions and reading dial indicator. Mark drive gear and differential case at point of maximum runout. The marking of differential case will be very useful later in checking differential case runout. Total indicator reading should be no more than .005 inch the
Fig. 9-Removing Companion Flange differential case may be damaged. A test for case runout will be described later.
(6) Remove drive pinion nut and washer. Using
Tool C-452 and holding Tool C-3281, pinion flange (Fig. 9).
(7) Using Tool C-748
(Fig. 10). load shim. caps for location in reassembly (Fig. 11). spreader Tool C-3721 with tool dowel pins seated in locating holes of axle housing. Turn tool screw finger tight at this time.
(10) on left side of axle housing. Attach dial indicator and load indicator stem slightly against opposite side of axle housing
(Fig. 12).
.012 .015 inch movement of dial indicator to per- mit removal of differential case assembly. (Do not spread over .020
N Y 1038
Fig. 8-Measuring Drive Gear Runout Fig. IO-Removing Pinion Oil Seal
NY1036
MyMopar.com
3-6 REAR AXLE 0
H MARKS
NY1035
Fig. I I-Bearing Cap Identification and ring gear assembly from axle housing. A light prying action must be used to unseat the differential assembly from the housing (Fig. 13). Differential bearing cups and preload adjusting spacers must be kept with respective bearing cones. Do not remove spreader tool. bly from axle housing. rear bearing cups from housing. bly in a vise equipped with soft jaws (brass).
HAND THREAD. With a non-metallic hammer tap drive gear loose from differential case pilot and remove.
(17) .005 inch in step 4, differential case flange runout should be re- measured. Install differential case with appropriate bearing cups and shims in axle housing. Loosen nut of spreader tool and remove, mount dial indicator in contact with drive gear flange face to take runout
Fig. I 3-loosening Diff erential Assembly readings as in steps 3, 4 5. Total allowable run- out should not exceed .003 is often possible to reduce high runout by positioning drive gear 180’ from point of maximum runout when reassembling ring gear on differential case. shaft lock pin from drive gear side of case. a brass drift remove differential pinion shaft.
(20) Rotate differential side gears until differential pinions appear at differential case windows and re- move. washers.
(22) C-293 and #39 plates (Fig. 14). stem using Tool (2-293 #40 plates (Fig. 15).
Cleaning and lnspection
(1) Clean all parts except axle shaft bearings with a suitable cleaning solvent. With oil dampened cloth wipe axle shaft bearing outer race. Clean off all rust and corrosion. To clean axle housing tubes insert a
PLATES (TOOL)
“T-
-
’ 1
Fig. 12-Spreading Rear Axle Housing
N Y 1032
Fig. 14-Removing Differential Bearing Con.
MyMopar.com
REAR AXLE
3-7 ential case or differential pinions.
(9) The ring gear and drive pinion teeth should have a uniform contact pattern with smooth and un- broken surfaces without excessive wear. Machined surfaces of the pinion stem (at points of contact with either rear pinion bearing contact journal or rear pin- ion bearing mounting shim surface) should be smooth.
Assembling the Differential
Lubricate all parts when assembling and adjusting.
(1) Install thrust washers on differential side gears and position gears in case.
(2) Place thrust washers on both differential pinion gears and mesh the pinion gears with the side gears, having pinion gears exactly 180"
Fig. 15-Removing Rear Pinion Bearing Cone stiff wire into tube, attach a clean cloth to wire at center section and withdraw from center outward.
(2) All machined contact surfaces in the axle hous- ing and differential bearing caps should be smooth and free of any raised edges. Front and rear pinion bearing cup bore machined surfaces should be smooth. Raised metal on shoulders of bores incurred in removal of cups should be flattened by use of a flat nosed punch. washers with differential pinion shaft holes in case.
(4) Install differential pinion shaft with care not to damage thrust washers. Hole in pinion shaft must align with lock pin hole in differential case.
(5) Install lock pin in differential case from drive gear tooth side. rate the points of maximum runout 180" apart. and start all bolts through case into drive gear. Finger tighten. (LEFT HAND THREAD.) at both ends of housing should be smooth and free of rust and corrosion. This also applies to the brake sup- port plate and housing flange face area.
(4) The axle shaft splines should be smooth and free of excessive wear. The axle shaft oil seal journal should be smooth and free of nicks, scratches or blemishes. To remove any imperfections polish with
#600 crocus cloth (without reducing diameter of axle shaft oil seal surface).
(5) If axle shaft bearings, collars and retainers are removed from shafts they are unfit for further use and MUST BE REPLACED. Refer to axle shaft assem- bly procedure. with non-metallic mallet. Tighten bolts to 55 foot- pounds.
C-3716 16).
PINION BEARING CUP INSTALLATION
Rear axle gauge Tool C-3715 pinion bearing cups as well as to determine pinion depth of mesh (Fig. 17).
(1) Start both drive pinion bearing cups into axle housing. bearing cone and cup assemblies should have a smooth appearance with no broken or dented sur- faces on rollers or roller contact surfaces. The bearing roller retainer cages must not be distorted or cracked. smooth teeth with a uniform contact pattern without excessive wear or broken surfaces. The differential side gear hub surfaces and thrust washer contact sur- faces should be smooth and free from any scoring or metal pickup. side the differential case should be polished and with no surface imperfections. The pinion shaft bore in differential case should be round and smooth. The differential pinion shaft should be round and without excessive wear in areas of contact with either differ-
TOOL
Fig. 1 blnstalling Differential Bearing Cone
MyMopar.com
3-8
REAR AXLE
rear spacer SP-3244 on main tool. Seat rear pinion bearing cone on spacer and hold tool in housing.
(3) SP-3245 on tool and place front pinion bearing cone on centralizing sleeve, followed by tool sleeve, centralizing washer and nut. with Tool C-3281, ion bearing cups into axle housing bearing cup bores.
Permit tool to turn several revolutions during tighten- ing operation to permit bearing rollers to align. Leave tool in carrier for determining depth of mesh.
0
DRIVE PINION DEPTH
(Using Tool C-3715)
OF
MESH
axle housing after install- ing drive pinion bearing cups, loosen tool nut and re-tighten to produce 15-25 inch-pounds of turning torque. Attach gauge block to main tool using allen screw.
(2) dif- ferential bearing seats and install bearing caps.
Tighten cap bolts lightly.
(3) Select rear pinion bearing mounting shim whichwill fit between cross bore arbor and gauge block. This fit must be snug but not too tight (similar to the pull of a feeler gauge) (Fig. 18).
If the mark on the pinion head is plus (+2), select a shim that many thousandths thinner for installation.
If mark on pinion has a minus (-2), select a shim that many thousandths thicker for installation. Treat other pinion markings in a similar manner. Spacers are available in one thousandths of an inch incre- ments from .084 inch.
SPACER (SELECTIVE) N Y 1027
Fig. I 8-Measuring Housing For Pinion Shim
Thickness with chamfered side toward pinion head.
(1) Place selected shim and rear pinion bearing cone on pinion stem. Using installing sleeve Tool C-
3717, 19). housing and install original preload shim (chamfered side toward shoulder), followed by front pinion bear- ing cone, pinion flange, belleville washer (convex side of washer up) and pinion nut. nut to 240 foot-pounds (minimum) with torque wrench C-485, using holding Tool (2-3281 flange. Position holding Tool C-3281 several posi- tions to make a complete revolution while tightening.
Remove holding tool and rotate pinion assembly sev- eral revolutions in both directions to align rollers.
Recheck torque to 240 foot-pounds. Torque may have diminished as bearing rollers were aligned by rotating.
(4) Using inch pound torque wrench (2-685, ure pinion bearing preload by rotating pinion with
PINION INSTALLATION AND BEARING
PRELOAD
Pinion bearing mounting shims are chamfered on one side and must be installed on the pinion stem
COMPRESSION
REAR SPACER
SLEEVE
NY1028
Fig. 17-Pinion Setting Gauge Tool C-3715
Fig. 19-/nstalling Pinion Shim and Rear Bearing
Cone
MyMopar.com
0
REAR AXLE 3-9
handle of wrench floating. Take readings while han- dle is moving through several revolutions. Accurate readings can be made only with nose of axle in upright position. Correct preload is 15-25 inch- pounds. Bearing preload should be uniform during full revolution. A reading which varies during rota- tion indicates a binding condition which should be corrected. Use thinner shim to increase preload and thicker shim to decrease preload. Always perform steps 3 and 4 in exactly the same manner each time to obtain accurate readings. Preload shims are avail- able in one thousandths of an inch increments from
.074 to .lo6 inch.
(5) When front pinion bearing preload is correct, remove pinion nut, washer and flange.
(6) Apply a light coat of sealer in drive pinion oil seal bore of axle housing.
(7) Install drive pinion oil seal (lip toward pinion head) with Tool C-4002 (double lip synthetic rubber oil seal) or Tool C-3719 (single lip leather oil seal).
The proper tool must be used in order to position the seal the proper depth into the housing (Fig. 20).
(8) Install drive pinion flange using Tool C-3718 and holding Tool C-3281 (Fig. 21).
(9) Remove Tool C-3718 and install belleville washer, (convex side of washer up) and pinion nut.
Tighten nut to 240 foot-pounds.
DRIVE GEAR AND PINION BACKLASH
(1) With drive pinion and bearings installed and bearing preload set, install differential case and ring gear assembly, and cups. Insert a .254 inch preload adjusting spacer on ring gear side (Fig. 22) of axle
TOOL NY1024
Fig. 2 I -Installing Companion Flange
(2) Install a preload spacer on right side of housing that will fit snugly but s t i l l leave a slight amount of end play.
(3) To measure, move dserential to the left side or ring gear side of rear axle housing. Using two sets of feeler gauges, insert feeler gauges between the spacer and the right side of the axle housing above the center line of the case (Fig. 23). Insert the same thickness of feeler gauges between the spacer and the axle housing below center line of case. Increase thickness of gauges until heavy drag is felt.
(4) Rotate differential and ring gear assembly sev- eral times in both directions to seat bearings and cups and re-check feeler gauge drag.
(5) Install a spacer totaling the combined thickness of spacer and feeler gauge. This will provide zero end play.
(6) Measure drive gear backlash at 4 positions at approximately 90 degrees intervals (Fig. 24). Refer to
“Differential Preload Spacer Chart” for selection of proper spacers to provide .004” to .007” backlash.
(7) Remove differential case and ring gear assem- bly from axle housing.
(8) With proper spacers selected for left and right sides of assembly as specified by ‘‘Differential Pre-
Ftg. 20-installing Pinion Oil Seal Fig. 22-Temporarily lnstall Thinner) Spacer
MyMopar.com
3-10
REAR AXLE
0
Fig. 23-Feeler Gauges Measuring Thickness load Spacer Chart”, attach spreader Tool C-3721 with tool dowel pins seated in locating holes of axle hous- ing. Tighten tool screw only finger tight at this time.
(9) Install pilot stud Tool C-3288 on left side of axle housing. Attach dial indicator and load indicator stem slightly against opposite side of axle housing
(Fig. 12).
(10) Tighten spreader tool nut sufficiently to obtain
.012” to .015” movement of dial indicator to permit installation of differential case assembly. Do not spread over .020 inch.
(11) Remove dial indicator.
(12) Holding differential assembly with bearing cups on respective bearing and selected preload spacers, carefully install differential and ring gear assembly into axle housing.
(13) Loosen spreader tool nut and remove spread- er.
(14) Install differential bearing caps on respective sides and alternate tightening bolts to 40 foot- pounds.
(15) Install dial indicator to axle housing with indi-
Fig. 24-Determining Minimum Backlash cator parallel to drive gear. With pointer of indicator contacting the drive side of ring gear tooth, measure drive gear backlash. At least four readings should be taken on teeth approximately 90” apart to find the point of least backlash, and mark the tooth.
(16) At point of minimum backlash, dial indicator should read .004 to .007 inch. I€ reading is not within this tolerance, it will be necessary to refer to chart and Install Differential Spacers and re-check backlash to bring within proper specifications.
(17) Apply a thin film of red or white lead on both the drive and coast side of the drive gear teeth.
Ro-
tate drive gear one complete revolution in both direc- tions while pryhg with a round bar or screwdriver between the casting and differential case flange. This action creates a load and produces a distinct tooth contact pattern on the drive gear teeth.
(18) Observe the contact pattern on the drive gear teeth and compare with those in (Fig. 25) to deter- mine if pattern is properly located. If pinion depth of mesh and gear backlash are correct, the heaviest most distinct part of contact pattern should be cen-
DIFFERENTIAL PRELOAD SPACER SELECTION CHART
Backlash at Zero
End Play
.MO
.019
.018
.017
.016
.015
.014
.013
,012
,011
Change l e f t Change Right
Spacer Thickness Spacer Thickness
+ by:
.026
.024
+
,022
.022
+
.020
,020
+
.018
,016
+
,014
+
.014
-
-
-
- by:
-.012
.012
.010
-
-
-
-.004
-.m
Backlash at Zero
End Play
.010
.009
.008
.007
.006
.005
.004
.003
.002
.001
Change l e f t Change Right
Spacer Thickness Spacer Thickness
+
+ by:
.012
.008
.008
+
.006
+.OM
+
.002
,002
+
.010
.Ooo
.Ooo
-
+ by:
-.OOo
+
.002
,002
+
,004
,006
.008
.008
+
.010
.012
Should the zero end play backlash measure more than .020 (Maximum chart figure) increase the thickness of the left spacer from the specified 254” to a thickness great enough to reduce the zero the chart limits; then follow the recommended procedure. end play backlash within
MyMopar.com
0
PATTERN CLOSE TO CENTER
REAR AXLE
3-11
THINNER SPACER NEEDED
HEEL END-DRIVE
SIDE (CONVEX)
HEEL END-COAST
SIDE (CONCAVE) NR198
Fig. 25-Desired Tooth Contact Pa??ern
Under Light Load tered on both drive and coast sides of the drive gear teeth.
If your tooth contact resembles that in (Fig. 26), the drive pinion is too far away from centerline of the ring gear, the contact pattern will appear high on the heel on drive side and high on toe on coast side.
To correct this type tooth contact pattern, increase the thickness of the rear pinion bearing mounting spacer (Fig. 27), which will cause the high heel con- tact on drive side to lower and move toward the toe; the high toe contact on coast side will lower and move
THICKER SPACER NEEDED t
HEEL END-DRIVE
SIDE (CONVEX)
3
HEEL END-COAST
SIDE (CONCAVE) NR201
Fig. 28-Incorrect Tooth Contact Pa??ern
(Decrease Spacer Thickness) toward the heel.
If the tooth contact pattern resembles that in (Fig.
28), the drive pinion is too close to the ring gear, the pattern will appear low on the toe on drive side and low heel contact on the coast side. To correct this type tooth contact pattern, decrease the thickness of the rear pinion bearing mounting spacer (Fig. 29), which will cause the low toe contact on drive side to raise and move toward the heel; low heel contact on coast side will raise and move toward the toe. ob- tained, and cover and gasket surface is thoroughly clean, install cover with new gasket on housing and insert cover bolts and tighten to 20 foot-pounds.
REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY
f
HEEL END-DRIVE
SIDE (CONVEX)
I
Fig. tb-Incorrec? Tooth Contact Pawern flncrease Spacer Thickness)
9 d
HEEL END-COAST
SIDE (CONCAVE) NR199 lnstallcrtion
Refer to Paragraph “Axle Shaft Assembly“ when installing the rear axle shafts.
(1) With body supported at front of rear spring, position rear axle assembly spring seats over the spring center bolts.
(2) Install spring “U” 45 foot-pounds and install shock absorbers on spring plate studs.
PATTERN MOVES INWARD AND UP
PATTERN MOVES TOWARD CENTER
AND DOWN
HEEL END- DRIVE
SIDE (CONVEX)
HEEL END-COAST
SIDE (CONCAVE) NRX)o
Fig. 27-Mec? on T W h Pa??ern
Thickness is Increased as Spacer
HEEL END-DRIVE
SIDE (CONVEX)
HEEL
END--COAST
SIDE (CONCAVE) NR202
Fig. 29-Fffed on Tooth Contact Pattern as Spacer
Thickness is Decreased
MyMopar.com
3-12
REAR AXLE
0
(3) Connect hand brake cable.
(4) Install propeller shaft (match scribe marks on propeller shaft universal joint and pinion flange).
Tighten clamp screws to 15 foot-pounds.
(5) Connect brake lines to rear wheel cylinders and connect hydraulic flexible line and bleed wheel cyl- inder. en
(6) Install brake drums, and rear wheels and tight- to 55
LU B
R I
CAT1
0
N
able under Part Number 2585317, and is suitable for standard conventional axles only. Multi-Purpose Gear
Lubricant available under Part Number 2933565 is required for Sure-Grip differential and also suitable for conventional differentials.
Anticipated Temperature
Above -10°F.
As
low as -30°F.
Below -30°F.
Viscosity Grade
SAE 90
SAE 80
SAE 75
”SHOULD THE REAR AXLE BECOME SUBMERGED
IN WATER, THE LUBRICANT MUST BE CHANGED
IMMEDIATELY TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF
EARLY AXLE FAILURE RESULTING FROM CON-
TAMINATION OF THE LUBRICANT BY WATER
DRAWN INTO THE VENT HOLE.”
Refill axle assembly with multi-purpose gear lubri- cant as defined by MIGL2105B on all rear axles.
Chrysler Hypoid Lubricant is an oil of this type, avail-
Axle Shafts and Bearings
Axle Shaft End Play
Differential Case
Lubrication
REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY
8%”
R I N G GEAR
INDEX
......................
...........................
Differential and Carrier (Removal)
Drive Gear and Pinion Backlash
Gear Tooth Contact Pattern
Pinion Bearing Cup Installation
Page
..............
Differential and Carrier (Installation)
............
..............................
................
....................
...................................
................
12
16
16
28
17
26
27
28
21
Pinion Bearing Preload and Pinion
Setting Using Tool C-758-D-4
Small Stem Step Pinion
Large Stem Step Pinion
Large Stem Pinion With Collapsible Spacer
Pinion Bearing Preload and Pinion
Setting Without Using Tool C-758-D4
Rear Axle Housing
.................
.....................
......................
..........
............................
Removal and Replacement of Drive Pinion
Flange and Oil Seal in Vehicle
Page
....
................
21
21
23
25
26
16
28
GENERAL INFORMATION
The 8-3/4” Rear Axle Assembly shown in (Fig. l), is a semi-floating type and may be divided into four sub- assemblies; flanged axle drive shafts with related parts (Fig. 2.) differential with drive gear, drive pinion with carrier, and the axle housing. Servicing of the above mentioned subassemblies, with exception of the axle housing may be performed without removing the complete rear axle assembly from the vehicle.
Gear ratio identification numbers will be stamped on a metal tag and attached by means of the rear axle housing-to-carrier bolt.
Some 8-3/4” large stem differential and carrier as- semblies have incorporated a new collapsible spacer which bears against the inner races of the front and rear bearing. This collapsible spacer is used to estab- lish preload on the pinion bearings.
Adjustment of pinion depth of mesh is obtained by placing shims between the carrier casting and rear pinion bearing cup.
The differential bearings are larger on both the con- ventional and Sure-Grip Differentials and are not in- terchangeable with previous years bearings.
A new Sure-Grip Differential is available as optional equipment in both the 7-1/4” sembly. The new Sure-Grip Differential is of a two piece construction similar to the old type and is com- pletely interchangeable with the previous type and will be serviced as a complete assembly only. Refer to the “Sure Grip Differential” Section of the Axle
Group for the servicing procedure.
SHOULD THE REAR AXLE BECOME SUBMERGED
IN WATER, THE LUBRICANT MUST BE CHANGED
IMMEDIATELY TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF
EARLY AXLE FAILURE RESULTING FROM CON-
TAMINATION OF THE LUBRICANT BY WATER
DRAWN INTO THE VENT.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
AXLE SHAFTS AND BEARINGS
CAUTION: I t is absolutely necessary that anytime an axle assembly i s serviced, and the axle shafts are loosened and removed, the axle shaft gaskets and inner axle shaft oil seals must be replaced.
Removal
(1) With wheels removed, remove clips holding brake drum on axle shaft studs and remove drum.
(2) Using access hole in axle shaft flange, brake remove
MyMopar.com
0
I
REAR AXLE 3-13
ADJUSTER ,OIL SEAL
I
SCREW
J
_-.- RIGHT
GASKET
RETAINER'
N K967B retainer nuts, the right shaft with threaded adjuster in retainer plate will have a lock under one of the studs that should be removed at this time.
(3) Remove parking brake strut.
(4) Attach axle shaft remover Tool C-3971 (Fig. 3) to axle shaft flange and remove axle shaft. Remove brake assembly and gaskets.
Fig. 1-8-314" R w r Axle Assembly
CAUTION: Under no circumstances should axle shaft collars o r bearings be removed using a torch. The use of a torch in the removal of the axle shaft collars or bearings is an unsafe practice, because heat is fed into the axle shaft bearing journal and, thereby weak- ens this area. using Tool C-637 (Fig. 4).
(6) Wipe axle housing seal bore clean and install a new axle shaft oil seal using Tool C-839 (Fig. 5).
(1) Position axle shaft bearing retaining collar on a heavy vise or anvil and using a chisel, cut deep grooves into retaining collar at 90" intervals (Fig. 6).
BLOCKS BEARING
REMOVING SP-5020
/c1 a
ADAPTER
Disassembly
CAUTION: To prevent the possibility of damaging axle shaft seal surface, slide protective sleeve SP-5041 over the seal surface next t o bearing collar.
SCREWS
SP-5026
FLANGE
NASHERS SP-5015 OR SP-5168,-
ADJUSTER
I
BEARING
NK59A
Fig. 2-Axle Shaft Disassembled
S L E ~ V E
SP-5041
RING-BLOCK
HOLDING SP-5017
Fig. 3-Tool Set C-3971
NK360A
MyMopar.com
3-14
REAR AXLE
fig. &Removing Axle Shaft Seal
1 f Ig. 7-Removing Roller Retainer
Ib
NK356
NK57 fig. 5-Installing Axle Shaft Seal
This w i l l enlarge bore of collar and permit it to be driven off of axle shaft.
(2) Remove bearing roller retainer flange by cutting off lower edge with a chisel (Fig. 7).
(3) Grind a section off flange of inner bearing cone (Fig. 8 ) and remove bearing rollers (Fig. 9).
(4) Pull bearing roller retainer down as far as pos- sible and cut with a pair of side cutters and remove
Fig. 8-Flange Ground Off Inner Cone
(5) Remove roller bearing cup and protective sleeve SP-5041 axle shaft.
CAUTION: Sleeve SP-5041 should not be u d as a protector for the seal journal when pressing off the bearing cone, as it was not designed for this purpose.
(6) To avoid scuffing seal journal when bearing
0
Fig. 6-Notching Bearing Retainer Collar fig. 9-Removing Bearing Rollen
NK358
MyMopar.com
0
SLEEVE
REAR AXLE 3-15
Fig. IO-Cutting Out Roller Bearing Retainer cone is being removed, it should be protected by single wrap of .002 thickness shimstock held in place by a rubber band (Fig. 11).
(7) Remove the bearing cone using Tool C-3971
(Fig. 3). Tighten bolts of tool alternately removed (Fig. 12). until cone
(8) Remove seal in bearing retainer plate and place with new seal. is re-
Assembly
(1) Install retainer plate and seal assembly on axle shaft.
(2) Lubricate wheel bearings with Multi-Purpose
Grease NLGI, grade 2 E.P.
(3) Install a new axle shaft bearing cup, cone and collar on shaft using Tool C-3971 (Fig. 13) and tighten bolts of tool alternately until bearing and collar are seated properly.
(4) Inspect axle shaft seal journal for scratches and polish with #600 crocus cloth if necessary. installation
(1) Clean axle housing flange face and brake s u p port plate thoroughly. Install a new rubber asbestos
Fig. 12-Removing Bearing Cone with Tool C-397 I gasket on axle housing studs, followed by brake sup- port plate assembly on left side of axle housing.
(2) Apply a thin coating of Multi-Purpose Grease,
NLGI grade 2 E.P. to the outside diameter of the bearing cup prior to installing in the bearing bore.
This operation is necessary as a corrosion preventive.
(3) Install foam gasket on the studs of axle housing and carefully slide axle shaft assembly through oil seal and engage splines in differential side gear.
(4) Tap end of axle shaft lightly with a non- metallic mallet to position axle shaft bearing in hous- ing bearing bore. Position retainer plate over axle housing studs. Install retainer nuts and tighten 30-35 foot-pounds. Start by tightening bottom nut.
(5) Repeat step (1) for right side of axle housing.
(6) Back off threaded adjuster of right axle shaft assembly until inner face of adjuster is flush with inner face of retainer plate. Carefully slide axle shaft assembly through oil seal and engage splines in dif- ferential side gears.
(7) Repeat step (4).
'-BO2 SHIM STOCK
Fig. 1 1 -Seal Journal Protection Fig. 13-lnstulling New Bearing And Collar
MyMopar.com
3-16
REAR AXLE
3
AXLE SHAFT END
PLAY
CAUTION: When setting axle shaft end play, both rear wheels must be off the ground, otherwise a false end play setting will occur.
(1) Using a dial indicator mounted on the left brake support (Fig. 14), TURN THE ADJUSTER
CLOCKWISE UNTIL BOTH
SEATED AND THERE IS ZERO END
OFF THE ADJUSTER COUN-
TERCLOCKWISE APPROXIMATELY FOUR NOTCH-
ES TO ESTABLISH AN AXLE
SHAFT
END
PLAY
OF .00&.018 INCH.
(2) Tap end of left axle shaft lightly with a non- metallic mallet to seat right wheel bearing cup against adjuster, and rotate axle shaft several revolu- tions so that a true end play reading is indicated.
(3) Remove one retainer plate nut, install adjuster lock. If tab on lock does not mate with notch in ad- juster, turn adjuster slightly until it does. Install nut and tighten 30-35
(4) Recheck axle shaft end play. If it is not within the tolerance of -008-.018 inch, then repeat adjust- ment procedure.
(5) Remove dial indicator and install brake drum, drum and wheel.
REAR AXLE HOUSING
Removal
Should it become necessary to remove rear axle assembly for repair proceed as follows:
(1) Raise vehicle and support body at front of rear springs.
(2) Block brake pedal in the up position using a wooden block.
(3) Remove rear wheels.
(4) Disconnect hydraulic brake hose at connection on left side of underbody.
(5) Disconnect parking brake cable.
To maintain proper drive line balance when reas- sembling, make scribe marks on the propeller shaft universal joint and the pinion flange before removal.
(6) Disconnect propeller shaft at differential yoke and secure in an upright position to prevent damage to front universal joint. spring plate studs and loosen rear spring “U” bolt nuts and remove “U” bolts.
(8) Remove the assembly from vehicle.
installation
(1) With body of vehicle supported at front of rear springs, position the rear axle assembly spring seats over the spring center bolts.
(2) Install spring “U” bolts and tighten nuts to 45 foot-pounds and install shock absorbers on spring plate studs. (DO NOT
OVER
TIGHTEN “U” BOLT
NUTS.)
(3) Install propeller shaft (match scribe marks on propeller shaft universal joint and pinion flange).
Tighten clamp screws to 15 foot-pounds.
(4) Connect parking brake cable. brakes.
(6) Install rear wheels.
(7) If carrier was removed from axle housing dur- ing the removal operation, fill axle with proper amount and type of lubricant; see “Specifications” in
Lubrication section Group
“0”.
Welding Rear Axle Housing
The axle housing should be completely disassem- bled if it is to be welded with arc welding equip- ment. It is also possible to weld the assembled hous- ing with gas welding equipment, if precaution is taken to protect gaskets and heat treated parts.
DIFFERENTIAL AND CARRIER
Removal
(1) Remove flanged axle drive shafts.
(2) Disconnect rear universal joint and support propeller up and out of the way to prevent damage to the front universal joint.
Fig. 1 &Measuring Axle Shaft End Play
(4) Loosen and remove the carrier-to-housing at- taching nuts and lift the carrier assembly from axle housing.
Disassembly
Side play and runout check taken during disassem- bly will be very useful in reassembly.
(1) Mount carrier in Stand DD-1014 and attach dial indicator Tool C-430 or Tool (2-3339 to differential carrier flange in a position so pointer of indicator squarely contacts back face of ring gear (Fig. 15).
MyMopar.com
0
REAR AXLE
3-17
Fig. 15-Checking for Runout and Zero End Play
With a screw driver positioned between bearing cap and differential case flange, then using a prying mo- tion determine if side play is present. If side play is evident, remove adjuster lock and loosen adjuster slightly and retighten adjuster sufficiently to elimi- nate side play.
(2) Rotate drive gear several complete revolutions while noting total indicator reading. Mark drive gear and differential case at point of maximum runout. The marking of differential case will be very useful later in checking differential case runout. Total indicator reading should be no more than .005 inch. If runout exceeds .005 inch the differential case may be dam- aged, and a second reading will be required after drive gear has been removed. This operation is cov- ered during “Differential Disassembly”. Remove dial indicator.
(3) With Tool (2-3281 hold companion flange and remove drive pinion nut and Belleville washer.
(4) Install companion flange remover Tool C-452 and remove flange (Fig. 16).
(5) Using a screwdriver and hammer, remove the drive pinion oil seal from the carrier.
(6) While holding one hand over nose end of car- rier, invert carrier in stand. The front pinion bearing cone, shim pack and bearing spacer (where used) will drop from carrier.
(7) Apply identifying punch marks on differential bearing pedestals of carrier, differential bearing caps and bearing adjusters for reassembly purposes (Fig.
17).
(8) Remove both differential bearing adjuster lock screws and locks.
(9) With a 3/4 inch socket, loosen bearing cap bolts
(one on each side) and back off bearing adjusters slightly using spanner wrench Tool C-406A; to re- move differential bearing preload. Remove bearing cap bolts, caps and bearing adjusters.
(10) Remove differential and ring gear assembly with bearing cups. Differential bearing cups must be kept with respective bearing cones.
(11) Remove drive pinion and rear bearing assem- bly from carrier.
Rear Pinion Bearing Removal
(1) Remove drive pinion rear bearing from small stem pinion with Tool C-293 No. 36 plates, or four (4) No. 37 plates on large stem step pinion or large stem pinion using a collapsible spacer (Fig. 18).
(2) Using a flat end brass drift, remove front and rear pinion bearing cups.
DIFFER ENTl AL CASE
Disassem
(1) bl
Mount differential case and ring gear assembly in a vise equipped with soft jaws (brass).
(2) Remove drive gear bolts. BOLTS ARE LEFT
HAND THREAD. With a non-metallic hammer, tap drive gear loose from differential case pilot and remove.
(3) If drive gear runout exceeded .005 inch in step 2 (under “Carrier Disassembly”), recheck the case as follows: Install differential case and respective bearing cups in carrier.
FLANGE
TOOL
I
KPSB
Fig. 76-Removing Companion Flange
Fig. 17-Marking Bearing Caps and Adjusters
MyMopar.com
3-18
REAR
AXLE
0
KO 3748
Fig. 18-Removing Drive Pinion Rear Bearing
(4) Install bearing caps, cap bolts and bearing ad- justers. Tighten bearing cap bolts down tightly and screw in both adjusters with spanner wrench Tool
C-406A.
(5) Tighten cap bolts and adjusters sufficiently to prevent any side play in bearings.
(6) Attach a dial indicator Tool C-430 or Tool
C-
3339 to carrier flange so pointer of indicator squarely contacts drive gear surface of differential case flange between outer edge flange and drive gear bolt holes (Fig. 19).
(7) Rotate differential case several complete revo- lutions while noting total indicator reading. This reading must not exceed .003 inch runout. If runout is in excess of .003 inch, differential case must be re- placed. In a case where the runout does not exceed
.003 inch it is often possible to reduce the runout by positioning the drive gear 1800 from point of maxi- mum runout when reassembling drive gear on dif- ferential case.
THRUS
W A S U F
KP7A
Fig. 194hecking Drive Gear Mounting Flange
Runout
(8) With a flat nose drift and hammer, remove dif- ferential pinion shaft lock pin from back side of drive gear flange. ("he hole is reamed only part way through, making it necessary to remove lock pin from one direction.)
(9) With a brass drift and hammer, remove dif- ferential pinion shaft and axle drive shaft thrust block.
(10) Rotate differential side gears until each dif- ferential pinion appears at large opening of case.
Remove each pinion and thrust washer at that time.
(11) Remove both differential side gears and thrust washers.
Cleaning and inspection (Figs. 20,2 I and 22).
(1) Clean all parts in a fast evaporating mineral spirits or a dry cleaning solvent and with the excep tion of bearings, dry with compressed air.
Fig. 20-Differential Carrier Assembly (Small Stem Step Pinion)
MyMopar.com
0
THRUST WASHER
SHAFT
IFFERENTIAL CASE
BOLT AND LOCKWASHER
\
REAR
AXLE 3-19
THRUST BLOCK
RUST WASHER BOLT AND LOCKWASHER
THRUST WASHER KP1 B
Fig. 2 I-Differential Carrier Assembly (Large Stem Step Pinion)
(2) Inspect differential bearing cones, cups and rollers for pitting, spalling or other visible damage. If replacement is necessary, remove bearing cones from differential case with Tool C-293 and adapter plates
No. 43 (Fig. 23).
(3) Inspect differential case for elongated or en- larged pinion shaft hole. The machined thrust washer surface areas and counterbores must be smooth and without metal deposits or surface imper- fections. If any of the above conditions exist, satisfac- tory correction must be made or the case replaced.
Inspect case for cracks or other visible damage which might render it unfit for further service.
(4) Inspect differential pinion shaft for excessive wear in contact area of differential pinions. Shaft should be smooth and round with no scoring or metal pickup.
(5) Inspect differential side gears and pinions, they should have smooth teeth with a uniform contact pat- tern without excessive wear or broken surfaces. The differential side gear and pinion thrust washers should be smooth and free from any scoring pickup. or metal
(6) Inspect axle shaft thrust block for excessive wear or visible damage. The wear surface on the opposite ends of the blocks, must be smooth.
(7) Inspect differential pinion shaft lock pin for damage or looseness in case. Replace pin necessary. or case as
(8) Inspect drive gear and pinion for worn or chipped teeth or damaged attaching bolt threads. If replacement is necessary, replace both the drive gear
THRUST WASHER
SH,AFT
I
BOLT AND LOCKWASHER
BEARING CO FLANGE
EARING CONE
THRUST WASHER
UP
I
iw
THRUST BLOCK
BOLT AND LOCKWASHER
Fig. 22-Differential Carrier Assembly (Large Stem tapered Pinion)
KPlC
MyMopar.com
3-20
REAR AXLE
0 and position gears in case.
Fig. 23-Removing Differential Bearings and drive pinion as they are available in matched sets only.
(9) Inspect drive pinion bearing cones, cups and rollers for pitting, spalling, excessive wear, or other visible damage. If inspection reveals that either are unfit for further service, replace both cup and cone. for cracks or other visible damage which would render it unfit for further service. Raised metal on the shoulder of bear- ing cup bores incurred in removing pinion cups should be flattened by use of a flat nose punch.
(11) Inspect drive pinion for damaged bearing journals and mounting shim surface on excessively worn splines. If replacement is necessary, replace both the drive pinion and drive gear as they are available in matched sets only. ions and through large window of differential case, mesh the pinion gears with the side gears, having pinions exactly 180 degrees opposite each other.
(3) Rotate side gears 90 degrees to align pinions and thrust washers with differential pinion shaft holes in case.
(4) From pinion shaft lock pin hole side of case, insert slotted end of pinion shaft through case, and the conical thrust washer, and just through one of the pinion gears.
(5) Install thrust block through side gear hub, so that slot is centered between the side gears.
(6) While keeping all of these parts in proper alignment, push pinion shaft into case until locking pin hole in pinion shaft is in exact alignment with its respective hole in case. Install pinion shaft lock pin through hole in case from pinion shaft side of drive gear flange. The contacting surfaces of the drive gear and differential case flange must be clean and free of all burrs.
(7) Using an Arkansas stone, relieve the sharp edge of the chamfer on the inside diameter of the ring gear
(Fig. 24). This is very important otherwise during the installation of ring gear on differential case, the sharp edge will remove metal from the pilot diameter of case and can get imbedded between differential case flange and gear; causing gear not to seat properly.
(8) Position drive gear on differential case pilot, aligning threaded holes of drive gear with those in differential case flange.
(9) Insert drive gear screws (LEFT HAND
THREADS) through case flange and into drive gear.
After all cap screws are properly started, tap drive gear against differential case flange with a non- metallic mallet.
(10) Position unit between brass jaws of a vise and splines, pitted, rough or corroded oil seal contacting surface. Repair or replace companion flange as necessary.
(13) Inspect drive pinion bearing shim pack for broken, damaged or distorted shims, or Collapsible spacer. Replace if necessary during establishment of pinion bearing preload.
ASS E M B LY
LUBRICATE ALL PARTS BEFORE ASSEMBLY
WITH LUBRICANT AS
TION GROUP
~~
SPECIFIED IN (LUBRICA-
NU403
Fig. 24-Stoning Chamfer of Ring O w r
MyMopar.com
0 alternately tighten each cap screw to 55 foot-pounds.
(11) Position each differential bearing cone on hub of differential case (taper away from drive gear) and with installing Tool DD-1005, install bearing cones.
An arbor press may be used in conjunction with in- stalling tool.
CAUTION: Never exert pressure against the bearing cage, since this would damage the bearing.
REAR AXLE 3-21
PINION BEARING CUP INSTALLATION
(1) Position pinion bearing cups squarely in bores of carrier. Assemble Tool C-758-D4 (Fig. 25), by plac- ing spacer SP-2919 followed by rear pinion bearing cone over main screw of tool and inserting it into carrier from gear side.
(2) Place front pinion bearing cone over main screw of tool followed by compression sleeve SP-535, centralizing washer SP-534, and main screw nut SP-
533. Hold compression sleeve with the companion flange holding Tool C-3281 and tighten nut (Fig. 26), allowing tool to rotate as nut is being tightened in order not to brinnel bearing cone or cups. Do not remove tool after installing cups.
PINION BEARING PRELOAD AND DEPTH OF
MESH SETTING USING TOOL C-758-D4
The 8-3/4" axle incorporates three types of pinions.
The method of determining pinion depth of mesh and bearing preload are the same for the small and large stem step pinions; however, the sequence of making the two adjustments change. Small stem pinions re- quire the bearing preload adjustment first while large stem step pinions require the depth of mesh adjust- ment first. The large stem pinion using a collapsible spacer for bearing preload requires the depth of mesh setting first also.
GAUGE BLOCK SP-528 OR SP-3250 83/4" AXLE
SLEEVE
SP-5260 9'/4" AND 93/4" AXLE
CROSSBORE ARBOR sp-2920
KP13 B
Fig. 26-Seating Bearing Cups in Carrier Housing
8-314" Ring Gear)
The position of the drive pinion with respect to the drive gear (depth of mesh) is determined by the loca- tion of the bearing cup shoulders in the carrier and by the portion of the pinion in back of the rear bear- ing. The thickness of the rear pinion bearing mount- ing shim suitable for the carrier can be determined by using Tool C-758-D4.
PINION BEARING PRELOAD WITH BEARING
SPACER (Small Stem Step Pinion)
Bearing Preload
(1) With tool installed in carrier, remove main screw nut, centralizing washer, compression sleeve and front pinion bearing cone.
(2) Install the pinion bearing spacer, larger bore of spacer next to rear bearing.
(3) Position sleeve (SP-1730) in front bearing cone making sure sleeve is flush with rear of bearing.
(4) Position original shims, previously removed from drive pinion stem, over the sleeve and slide the sleeve, bearing and shims over main screw of tool until shims rest against spacer (Fig. 27).
(5) Install tool compression sleeve (SP-535) (square end out), centralizing washer (SP-534) and main screw nut (SP-533). Turn carrier in stand to bring nut on top.
(6) Tighten tool nut to 240 foot-pounds with a
4
/ 11
PINION LOCATING WASHER OR SHIM
PINION
,LOCATING
SPACER FPACER
SP-2919 CP-539
COMPRESSION c
NUT sp-533
NU418
Fig. 25-Rear Axle Setting Gauge Tool C-758-D4
\
Fig. 27-Pinion Preload with Spacer
(8-314" Ring Gear)
KP152A
MyMopar.com
3-22 REAR
AXLE
0 torque wrench, using holding Tool C-3281 on the compression sleeve to hold the assembly in several positions to make a complete revolution while tight- ening. Remove holding tool and rotate the pinion several revolutions in both directions to align the bearing rollers. Recheck torque to 240 foot-pounds
(torque may have diminished as bearing rollers were aligned by rotating). Correct bearing preload reading can only be obtained with nose of carrier up.
(7) Using inch-pound torque wrench C-685, meas- ure pinion bearing preload by rotating pinion with handle of wrench floating, read the torque while wrench is moving through several complete revolu- tions. Correct preload setting is 20-30 inch-pounds for a new bearing and 0-15 inch-pounds for orig- inal bearing. Bearing preload should be uniform during complete revolution. A reading that varies considerably during rotation of pinion indicates a binding condition which requires correction. Use a thinner shim pack to increase preload and a thicker shim pack to decrease preload. Preload shims are available in two thousandths of an inch increments from .014-.026 inch.
After correct pinion bearing preload is set, DO
NOT REMOVE THE TOOL.
Depth of Mesh
(1) Reverse carrier in stand and install gauge block
SP-528 on end of tool and securing it to tool with
Allen screw. The flat portion of gauge block should be facing differential bearing pedestals (Fig. 28).
Tighten screw with Allen wrench.
(2) Position arbor SP-561 (part of Tool C-758-D4) in differential bearing pedestals of carrier (Fig. 29).
Center the arbor so that an approximate equal dis- tance is maintained at both ends. Position differential bearing caps and attaching bolts on carrier pedestals, and insert a piece of .002 inch shim stock between
Fig. 29-Installing Arbor in Carrier arbor and each cap. Tighten cap bolts to 10 foot- pounds.
(3) Select a rear pinion bearing mounting shim which will fit between cross arbor and gauge block.
This fit must be snug but not too tight (similar to the pull of a feeler gauge) (Fig. 30). This shim is then used in determining the correct thickness shim for installation.
(4) To select a shim for installation, read the mark- ing on end of pinion head (-0, -1, -2, +l, etc.).
When marking is -(minus), add that amount to the thickness of shim selected in step (3). When the mark- ing is
+
(plus), subtract that amount. Example: With a shim .086 inch thick and a pinion marked -2, install a shim .088 inch thick. (.086
+
.002
=
.088).
Example: With a shim .086 inch thick and a pinion marked f2,
-
=
.084) or when a shim .086 inch thick
is
too loose and .088 inch too tight, use .086 inch shim.
Treat other pinion markings in a similar manner.
Shims are available in two thousandths of an inch increments. Mounting shims differ in diameter, d e pending on which pinion they are used on.
(5) Remove tool arbor from carrier.
Fig. 28-Installing Gauge Block on Tool
Fig. 30-Determining Spacer thickness
MyMopar.com
0
REAR
AXLE
3-23
(6) Remove tool and bearings out of carrier.
(7) Remove shims, spacer, tool sleeve and rear bearing cone from tool main screw.
(8) With stem of pinion facing up, install correct shim on pinion stem. Shims are chamfered on one side and must be installed on the pinion stem with
SP-561 PINION LOCATING WASHER chamfered side toward pinion head.
(9) Position rear bearing cone on pinion stem
(small side away from pinion head). Make certain that the contacting surfaces of correct shim, pinion head shim contact surface and rear bearing cone are per- fectly clean and free of any foreign particles.
(10) Using installing Tool DD-996 press bearing on pinion stem. An arbor press may be used in conjunc- tion with tool.
(11) Install bearing tubular spacer on pinion stem
(large bore facing rear bearing cone).
(12) Install selected shim pack.
(13) Lubricate front and rear pinion bearing cones with lubricant as specified in (Lubrication Group
SP-526 NU419
Fig. 3l--Tool C-758-D4 Installed in Housing
(8-3/4“ Large Pinion) washer and tool nut on shaft.
(3) With nose of carrier up, place flange holding
Tool C-3281 on compression sleeve. Allow assembly to rotate while tightening nut to not more than 25-50 foot-pounds. Always make sure bearing cones are
“0”). lubricated with hypoid gear lubricant.
(14) Position front pinion bearing cone in its cup in (4) Turn tool several complete revolutions in both carrier. directions to permit bearing rollers to seat. After
(15) Apply a light coat of sealer in seal bore of bearing rollers are properly seated, check bearing carrier and install drive pinion oil seal into carrier preload by rotating tool with an inch-pound torque using Tool C-3980 (double lip synthetic rubber oil seal) or Tool (2-3656 (single lip leather oil seal). The proper tool must be used in order to position the seal the proper depth into the carrier casting. u c- wrench. The correct bearing preload should be from
20-30 inch-pounds for new bearings and 0-15 inch- pounds for the original bearings.
tx
th
(5) With proper bearing preload set, invert carrier
(16) Insert drive pinion and bearing assembly up in stand and install gauge block SP-528 or SP-3250 through carrier. While supporting pinion in carrier, to the main screw attaching it with Allen screw se- install companion flange with installing Tool C-496 or
DD-999 and holding Tool (2-3281. curely (Fig. 28). The flat portion of gauge block should
? facing differential bearing pedestals.
(17) Remove tools and install Belleville rasher (6) Position tool arbor SP-561 in differential bear-
(convex side of washer up) and pinion nut. in g pedestals of carrier (Fig. 29). Center the arbor so
(18) Hold companion flange with holding Tc
3281 and tighten pinion nut to 240 foot-pound tate pinion several revolutions in both directic )ns to ta ching bolts on carrier pedestals, and insert a piece align bearing rollers. Recheck torque to 240
Ro- b( pounds (torque may have diminished as bearing rollers were aligned by rotating).
DO1
S. foot-
[at an approximate equal distance is maintained at of .002 inch shim stock between arbor and each cap.
Tighten cap bolts to 10 foot-pounds.
(7) Select a rear pinion bearing mounting shim
PINION BEARING PRELOAD
(Large Stem
Step
Pinion)
which will fit between cross arbor and gauge block.
This fit must be snug but not too tight (similar to the pull of a feeler gauge. (Fig. 30). This shim is then used in determining the correct thickness shim for installation.
Inspect bearing cups and carrier for grit and d i d or other foreign material. Clean all parts in a fast evapo- rating mineral spirits or a dry cleaning solvent and with the exception of bearing cones, dry with com- pressed air.
(1) Assemble spacer SP-2921 to main section of tool followed by spacer SP-1730. Install rear pinion bearing cone over spacer SP-1730 and against spacer
SP-2921 (Fig. 31).
(2) Insert assembly into carrier and install front pinion bearing cone over tool shaft and in its proper position in bearing cup. Install tool spacer, tool thrust
(8) To select a shim for installation, read the mark- ing on end of pinion head (-0, -1, -2, +1, f 2 , etc.). When marking is
- the thickness of shim selected in step (7). When the marking is
+
(plus), subtract that amount. Example:
With a shim .086 inch thick and a pinion marked -2, install a shim .088 inch thick (.086
+
.002 = .088).
Example: With a shim .086 inch thick and a pinion marked +2, install a washer -084 inch thick, (.086
-
=
.084) or when a shim .086 inch thick is too
MyMopar.com
3-24
REAR AXLE
loose and .088 inch too thick, use .086 inch shim.
Treat other pinion markings in a similar manner.
Shims are available in two thousandths of an inch increments. Mounting shims differ in diameter, de- pending on which pinion they are used on. tool arbor from carrier.
(10) Reverse carrier in stand so nut of tool is in up- right position. Loosen compression nut, and support lower portion of tool in carrier with one hand, re- move tool nut, centering washer and compression sleeve. Lower tool down and out of carrier.
0 in two thousandths of an inch increments from .014
.026 inch.
(20) Loosen and remove drive pinion nut, washer and flange after proper bearing preload has been established. carrier and install drive pinion oil seal into carrier using Tool C-3980 (double lip synthetic rubber oil seal) or Tool C-3656 proper tool must be used in order to position the seal the proper depth into the carrier casting. companion flange with installing Tool C-496 or DD-
999 and holding Tool C-3281. housing. pinion bearing mounting shim you selected on pinion stem. Shims are chamfered on one side and must be installed on the pinion stem with chamfered side to- ward pinion head. stem (small side away from pinion head). Make cer- tain that the contacting surfaces of correct shim, pinion head shim contact surface and rear bearing cone are perfectly clean and free of any foreign par- ticles. with hypoid gear lubricant. Install rear bearing cone onto pinion stem, using Tool DD-996, cone into place. An arbor press may be used in con- junction with tool. carrier and install the original preload shim pack on pinion stem. stem followed by drive pinion flange, bellville wash- er and nut. Using flange holding Tool C-3281 and torque wrench, tighten pinion nut to 240 foot-pounds.
Hold the assembly in several positions to make a com- plete revolution while tightening. complete revolutions in both directions to permit bearing roller to seat. Recheck torque to pounds (torque may have diminished as bearing roll- ers seated).
240 foot- pinion using an inch-pound torque wrench. The cor- rect preload specifications are 20-30 new bearing and 0-15 bearing preload readings can only be obtained with nose of carrier in up right position. Bearing preload should be uniform during complete revolution. A reading that varies during rotation indicates a bind- ing condition which should be corrected. Use a thin- ner shim pack to increase preload and a thicker shim pack to decreate preload. Preload shims are available
(convex side of washer up) and pinion nut.
C-3281 and tighten pinion nut to 240 foot-pounds.
Rotate pinion several revolutions in both directions to align bearing rollers. Recheck torque to 240 foot- pounds (torque may have diminished as bearing rollers were aligned by rotating).
DEPTH OF MESH
(Large Stem Pinion With Collapsible Spacer)
Inspect differential bearing cups and cones, carrier for grit and dirt or other foreign material. Clean all parts in fast evaporating mineral spirits or a dry cleaning solvent and with the exception of bearing cones, dry with compressed air. Front Pinion Bearing
Cone and Cup Must Never Be Reused Under Any
Circumstances.
(1) SP-5387 to main section of tool followed by spacer SP-1730. bearing cone over spacer SP-1730
SP-5387 31). pinion bearing cone over tool shaft and in its proper position in bearing cup. Install tool spacer, tool thrust washer and tool nut on shaft.
Tool C-3281 on compression sleeve. Allow assembly to rotate while tightening nut to not more than 25-50 foot-pounds. Always make sure bearing cones are lubricated with hypoid gear lubricant.
(4) Turn tool several complete revolutions in both directions to permit bearing rollers to seat. After bearing rollers are properly seated, check bearing preload by rotating tool with an inch-pound torque wrench. The correct bearing preload should be from
( 5 ) With proper bearing preload set, invert carrier in stand and install gauge block SP-528 or SP-3250 to the main screw attaching it with Allen screw se- curely (Fig. 28). The flat portion of gauge block should be facing differential bearing pedestals.
MyMopar.com
~
(6) Position tool arbor SP-561 in differential bear- ing pedestals of carrier (Fig. 29). Center the arbor so that an approximate equal distance is maintained at both ends. Position differential bearing caps and at- taching bolts on carrier pedestals, and insert a piece of .002 inch shim stock between arbor and each cap.
Tighten cap bolts to 10 foot-pounds.
(7) Select a rear pinion bearing mounting shim which will fit between cross arbor and gauge block.
This fit must be snug but not too tight (similar to the pull of a feeler gauge. (Fig. 30). This shim is then used in determining the correct thickness shim for installation.
(8) To select a shim for installation, read the mark- ing on end of pinion head (-0, -1, -2, +1, +2, etc.). When marking is - the thickness of shim selected in step (7). When the marking is
+
(plus), subtract that amount. Example:
With a shim .036 inch thick and a pinion marked -2, install a shim .038 inch thick (.036
+
.002 = .038).
Example: With a shim .036 inch thick and a pinion marked +2, install a washer .034 inch thick, (.036
-
=
.034) or when a shim .036 inch thick is too loose and .038 inch too thick, use .036 inch shim.
Treat other pinion markings in a similar manner.
Shims are available in one thousandths of an inch increments.
(9) Remove differential bearing caps and remove tool arbor from carrier.
(10) Reverse carrier in stand so nut of tool is in up- right position. Loosen compression nut, and support lower portion of tool in carrier with one hand, re- move tool nut, centering washer and compression sleeve. Lower tool down and out of carrier.
(11) Remove front pinion bearing cone from carrier housing.
(12) Using a suitable brass drift positioned in re- cesses of carrier casting, remove rear pinion bearing cup.
(13) Install the shim you previously selected into rear pinion bearing cup cavity of carrier casting fol- lowed by pinion bearing cup squarely in bore.
(14) Asemble Tool C-758-D4 by placing spacer SP-
5387 followed by rear pinion bearing cone over main screw of tool and inserting it into carrier from gear side.
(15) Place front pinion bearing cone over main screw of tool followed by compression sleeve SP-535, centralizing washer SP-534, and main screw nut SP-
533. Hold compression sleeve with companion flange holding Tool C-3281 and tighten nut allowing tool to rotate as nut is being tightened in order not to brinnel bearing cone or cups. Make sure bearing cup is prop- erly seated against mounting shim and carrier casting.
(16) Loosen compression nut and support lower por- tion of tool in carrier with one hand, remove tool nut,
REAR AXLE 3-25
centering washer and compression sleeve. Lower tool down and out of carrier.
PINION BEARING PRELOAD
(Large Stem Pinion With Collapsible Spacer)
(1) Position rear pinion bearing cone on pinion stem
(small side away from pinion head). Make certain that the pinion head contact surface and rear bearing cone are perfectly clean and free of any foreign particles.
(2) Lubricate front and rear pinion bearing cones with hypoid gear lubricant. Install rear pinion bearing cone onto pinion stem, using Tool C-3095, press bear- ing cone into place. An arbor press may be used in conjunction with tool.
(3) Insert drive pinion and bearing assembly up through carrier and install collapsible spacer followed by new front pinion bearing cone on pinion stem.
(4) Apply a light coat of sealer in seal bore of car- rier casting and install drive pinion oil seal into car- rier using Tool C-3980 (double lip synthetic rubber oil seal) or Tool C-3656 (single lip leather oil seal). The proper tool must be used in order to position the seal the proper depth into the carrier casting.
(5) While supporting pinion in carrier, install com- panion flange with installing Tool C-496 or DD-999 and holding Tool C-3281.
(6) Remove tools and install Belleville washer (con- vex side of washer up) and pinion nut.
(7) Hold universal joint flange with holding Tool
C-3281 and tighten pinion nut to remove end play in pinion, while rotating the pinion to insure proper bearing seating.
(8) Remove holding tool and rotate pinion several complete revolutions in both directions to permit bear- ing rollers to seat.
(9) Tighten pinion nut to 100 foot-pounds and meas- ure pinion bearing preload by rotating pinion using an inch-pound torque wrench. The correct preload specifications are 20-35 inch-pounds for new bearings.
Correct bearing preload readings can only be obtained with nose of carrier in upright position. Continue tightening of pinion nut in small increments and checking pinion bearing preload until proper preload is obtained. Bearing preload should be uniform during complete revolution. A preload reading that varies during rotation indicates a binding condition which has to be corrected. The assembly is unacceptable if final pinion nut torque is below 170 foot-pounds or pinion bearing preload is not within the correct speci- fications.
NOTE: UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD THE
~
PINION NUT BE BACKED OFF TO LESSEN PRE-
LOAD. IF
THIS
IS DONE A NEW COLLAPSIBLE
SPACER MUST BE INSTALLED AND NUT RE-
TIGHTENED UNTIL PROPER PRELOAD IS OB-
TAINED.
MyMopar.com
3-26 REAR AXLE
0
PINION BEARING PRELOAD AND PINION
SETTING (Without Using Tool C-758-D4)
If the differential assembly was satisfactorily quiet before being disassembled, the drive pinion may be assembled with the original components. If replace- ment parts are installed, a complete readjustment is necessary; the proper thickness shim must be selected and installed. The drive gear and pinion are manu- factured and lapped in matching sets and are avail- able in matched sets only. The adjustment position in which the best tooth cantact is obtained is marked on the end of the pinion head.
To obtain the proper pinion setting in relation to the drive gear, the correct thickness mounting shim must be selected before the drive pinion is installed in the carrier. The pinion bearing mounting shims are available in two thousandths increments from .084 or .020-.038 .001 inch (large stem pinion with collapsible spacer).
To select the proper thickness shim, proceed as fol- lows: It will be noted that the head of the drive pinion is marked with a plus (+) (-) sign followed by a number ranging from 1 to 4, zero marking.
Depth of Mesh
If the old and new pinion have the same marking and if the original bearing is being reused, use a mounting shim of the same thickness. But if the old pinion is marked zero (0) and the new pinion is marked +2, try a .002 pinion is marked -2, try a .002
Pinion Bearing Preload
If the bearings are being replaced, place the new bearing cup in position in the carrier and drive the cups in place with a suitable drift. After properly positioning the bearing cups in the carrier, assemble the drive pinion mounting shim (chamfered side down toward gear) on the drive pinion stem. Install the tubular spacer (if so equipped) and the preload shims on the pinion stems. Insert the pinion assembly into the carrier. Install the front pinion bearing cone, universal joint flange, Belleville washer (convex side of washer up) and nut. DO NOT INSTALL THE OIL
SEAL. Rotate the drive pinion after tightening the flange nut to 240 foot-pounds, to properly seat the bearing rollers in the bearing cups. The preload torque required to rotate the pinion with the bearings oiled should be 20-30 inch-pounds for new bearing and 0-15 inch-pounds for used bearings. Use a thinner shim pack to increase preload and a thicker shim pack to decrease preload. After the correct pin- ion depth of mesh has been established and correct bearing preload obtained, remove the drive pinion flange. Apply a light coat of sealer to drive pinion oil seal and carrier casting bore and install drive pinion oil seal with Tool C-3980 or
Tool C-3656 (leather seal). Install the pinion flange, washer and nut and tighten nut to 240 foot-pounds.
Pinion Bearing Preload (Large Stem
Pinion with Collapsible Spacer)
After selecting the correct pinion bearing mounting shim and installing it behind the rear pinion bearing cup proceed as follows: Install the pinion assembly into the carrier. Install the new collapsible spacer fol- lowed by new front pinion bearing cone on pinion stem. Apply a light coat of sealer to drive pinion oil seal and carrier casting bore and install drive pinion oil seal with Tool C-3980
Tool C-3656
Belleville washer (convex side of washer up) and nut.
Tighten the pinion nut to 150 foot-pounds and using an inch-pounds torque wrench rotate the pinion to de- termine preload. The correct preload specifications are 20-30 not correct, continue to tighten pinion nut in small increments and checking preload until preload on pinion bearings is correct. A minimum of 175 foot- pounds of torque is required on pinion nut. Under no circumstances should the pinion nut be backed off to lessen preload. If this is done a new pinion beqring collapsible spacer must be installed and nut retight- e n d until proper preload is obtained.
Installation of Differential and Ring Gear in
Carrier
(1) with bearing cups on respective bearing cones, care- fully install the assembly into carrier.
(2) Install differential bearing caps, on respective sides, making certain that identification marks on caps correspond with those on carrier. Install cap bolts and tighten bolts of each cap by hand.
(3) Install differential bearing adjusters, on respec- tive sides, making certain that identification marks correspond. Screw adjuster in by hand. No attempt should be made to apply any excessive pressure at this time.
(4) to square bearing cups with bearing cone, turn adjusters “IN” until cups are properly square with bearings and end play is eliminated with some backlash existing be- tween the drive gear and pinion (Fig. 32). each side to 85-90
DRIVE GEAR AND PINION BACKLASH
Correct drive gear and pinion backlash when properly set is .006 inch at point of minimum backlash.
(1) C-340 C-3339
MyMopar.com
0
REAR AXLE
PATTERN CLOSE TO CENTER
3-27
KP20A
Fig. 32-Adjusting Differential Bearings carrier flange so pointer of indicator is squarely con- tacting one drive gear tooth (drive side) (Fig. 33).
(2) Measure backlash between drive gear and pin- ion at four positions, approximately 90 degrees apart.
After point of least backlash has been determined, mark drive gear. Do not rotate drive gear from point of least backlash until all adjustments have been completed.
(3) Using Tool C-406A (spanner wrench) turn both bearing adjusters equally (in same direction) until backlash between drive gear and pinion is .0005 to
.0015 inch. This backlash variation i s given to permit alignment and installation of the bearing adjuster lock, lockwasher and attaching screw. The adjuster must only be turned in a clockwise direction and under no circumstances should be backed off.
(4) Install adjuster lock on bearing cap, back-face side of drive gear. Tighten lock screw to 15 to 20 foot-pounds
.
Differential Bearing Preload
(1) Turn bearing adjuster (tooth side of drive gear)
HEEL END-DRIVE
SIDE (CONVEX)
HEEL E N D ~ C O A S T
SIDE (CONCAVE) NR198
Fig. 34-Desired Tooth Contact under Light Load
(Fig. 33) in a notch at a time (notch referred to is the adjuster lock holes) until backlash between drive gear and pinion is a minimum of .006 to .008 inch. This will preload differential bearings and establish cor- rect backlash.
(2) Tighten the remaining two differential bearing cap bolts to 85-90 foot-pounds.
(3) Install remaining adjuster lock, lockwasher and attaching screw. Tighten to 15-20 foot-pounds.
GEAR TOOTH CONTACT PATTERN
The gear tooth contact pattern will disclose whether the correct rear pinion bearing mounting shim has been installed and the drive gear backlash set prop- erly. Backlash between the drive gear and pinion must be maintained within the specified limits until correct tooth contact pattern is obtained.
(1) Apply a thin film of red or white lead on both the drive and coast side of the drive gear teeth.
Ro-
tate drive gear one complete revolution in both direc- tions while load is being applied with a round bar or screwdriver between the carrier casting and differen- tial case flange. This action will leave a distinct con- tact pattern on both the drive and coast side of the drive gear teeth.
(2) Observe the contact pattern on the drive gear teeth and compare with those in figures 34, 35 and
THICKER SPACER NEEDED k
Fig. 33-Measuring Backlash Between Drive
Gear and Pinion
HEEL END-DRIVE
SIDE (CONVEX)
HEEL E N D ~ O A S T
SIDE (CONCAVE) NR199
Fig. 35-Incorrect Tooth Contact Pattern
(Increase Spacer Thickness)
MyMopar.com
3-28 REAR AXLE
PATTERN MOVES TOWARD CENTER
AND DOWN
Fig. 36-Effect Tooth Contact Pattern a s Spacer
Thickness I s Increased
37 to determine if pattern is properly located. With pinion depth of mesh and gear backlash set properly, your contact pattern should resemble that in (Fig. 341,
Notice that the correct contact pattern is well cen- tered on both drive and coast sides of the teeth. When tooth contact patterns are obtained by hand, they are apt to be rather small. Under the actual operating load, however, the contact area increases.
(3) If after observing the contact pattern and you find it resembles that in (Fig. 35), the drive pinion is too far away from centerline of the ring gear, the contact pattern will appear high on the heel on drive side and high on toe on coast side. To correct this type tooth contact pattern, increase the thickness of the rear pinion bearing mounting spacer (Fig. 36), which will cause the high heel contact on drive side to lower and move toward the toe; the high toe con- tact on coast side will lower and move toward the heel.
(4) If after observing the contact pattern and you find it resembles that in (Fig. 37), too close to the ring gear, the pattern will appear low on the toe on drive side and low heel contact on coast side. To correct this type tooth contact pattern, decrease the thickness of the rear pinion bearing mounting spacer (Fig. 38), which will cause the low
THINNER SPACER NEEDED toe contact on drive side to raise and move toward the heel; low heel contact on coast side will raise and move toward the toe.
DIFFERENTIAL AND CARRIER installation
(1) Thoroughly clean the gasket surfaces of the car- rier and rear axle housing.
(2) Using a new gasket, install the carrier assembly into the axle housing. Tighten the carrier to axle hous ing nuts to 45 foot-pounds.
(3) Refer to “Installation of Rear Axle Shaft,” when installing and setting axle shaft end play.
(4) Install propeller shaft (match scribe marks on propeller shaft universal joint and pinion flange).
Tighten clamp screws to 15 foot-pounds.
(5) Remove wooden block from under brake pedal and bleed and adjust brakes.
(6) Install rear wheel and tighten to 65 foot-pounds.
L U B R I CAT1 0 N
Refill axle assembly with multi-purpose gear lubri- cant as defined by MILL2105B on all rear axles.
Chrysler Hypoid Lubricant is an oil of this type, avail- able under Part Number 2585317, and is suitable for standard conventional axles only. Multi-Purpose Gear
Lubricant available under Part Number 2933565 is required for Sure-Grip differential and also suitable for standard conventional axles.
Anticipated Temperature Range
Above
As low as
Below
-
-
-
Viscosity Grade
SAE 90
SAE 80
SA€ 75
REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF DRIVE
PINION FLANGE AND OIL SEAL IN VEHICLE
On large stem carriers which use the collapsible spacer to obtain pinion bearing preload, the following procedure for the removal and replacement of the
PATTERN MOVES INWARDAND UP
HEEL END-DRIVE
SIDE (CONVEX)
HEEL END-COAST
SIDE (CONCAVE 1 f’4R201
Fig. 37-Incorrect Tooth Contact Pattern
(Decrease Spacer Thickness)
HEEL END-DRIVE
SIDE (CONVEX)
HEEL END- COAST
SIDE (CONCAVE) NR202
Fig. 38-Effect on Tooth Contad Pattern a s Spacer
Thickness I s Decreased
MyMopar.com
0
REAR AXLE 3-29
drive pinion flange and pinion oil seal must be fol- lowed to assure that the proper bearing preload is maintained in the axle assembly. If this procedure is not followed it could result in a premature failure of the axle.
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist and make scribe marks on propeller shaft universal joint, drive pinion flange and end of pinion stem.
(2) Disconnect propeller shaft at pinion flange and secure in an upright position to prevent damage to front universal joint.
(3) Remove the rear wheels and brake drums to prevent any drag or a possible false preload reading could occur.
(4) Using inch-pound torque wrench C-685 measure pinion bearing preload by rotating pinion with handle of wrench floating, read the torque while wrench is moving through several complete revolutions and re- cord. This operation is very important because pre- load must be carefully reset when reassembling.
(5) With Tool C-3281 hold companion flange and remove drive pinion nut and Belleville washer.
(6) Install companion flange remover Tool C-452 and remove flange. Lower rear of vehicle to prevent lubricant leakage.
(7) Using a screwdriver and hammer, remove the pinion oil seal from the carrier and clean the oil seal seat.
(8) Check splines on pinion shaft stem to be sure they are free of burrs or are not worn badly. If burrs are evident remove them using crocus cloth by work- ing in a rotational motion. Wipe the pinion shaft clean.
(9) Inspect companion flange for cracks, worn splines, pitted, rough or corroded oil seal contacting surface. Repair or replace companion flange as neces- sary.
(10) Apply a light coat of sealer in seal bore of car- rier and install drive pinion oil seal into carrier using
Tool C-3980 (Double lip synthetic rubber oil seal) or
Tool C-3656 (single lip leather oil seal). The proper tool must be used in order to properly position the seal the correct depth into the carrier casting.
(11) Position companion flange on pinion stem be- ing careful to match scribe marks made previously before removal.
(12) Install companion flange with installing Tool
C-496 or DD-999 and holding Tool C-3281.
(13) Remove tool and install Belleville washer (con- vex side of washer up) and pinion nut.
(14) Hold universal joint flange with holding Tool
C-3281 and tighten pinion nut to 100 foot-pounds. Ro- tate pinion several complete revolutions to assure that bearing rollers are properly seated. Using an inch-pound torque wrench (2-685 measure pinion bear- ing preload. Continue tightening pinion nut and check- ing preload until preload is at the original established setting you found in step 4. Under no circumstances should the preload be more than 5 inch-pounds over the established setting found at time of checking in step 4 of procedure.
Bearing preload should be uniform during a com- plete revolution. A preload reading that varies during rotation indicates a binding condition which has to be corrected. The assembly is unacceptable if final pinion nut torque is below 170 foot-pounds or pinion bearing preload is not within the correct specifications.
CAUTION: Never back off the pinion nut to lessen pinion bearing preload. If the desired preload is ex- ceeded a new collapsible spacer must be installed and nut retightened until proper preload i s obtained. In addition, the universal joint flange must never be ham- mered on, or power tools used.
(15) Install propeller shaft (match scribe marks on propeller shaft untiversal joint and pinion flange).
Tighten clamp screws to 15 foot-pounds.
(16) Install the rear brake drums and wheels and tighten nuts 65 foot-pounds.
(17) Raise the vehicle to a level position so axle assembly is at correct running position and check lubricant level. Add the correct type of lubricant re- quired to bring lubricant to proper level.
REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY 93/4ff R I N G GEAR
Axle Shafts and Bearings and Pinion Backlash
......................
Differential (Removal and Disassembly)
Differential (Cleaning and Inspection)
.........
Differential Bearing Preload and Drive Gear
........................
Differential Case and Drive Gear (Installation)
Differential Case (Sure-Grip)
Differential Noise
Drive
41
...
37
...................
34
Pinion Depth Of Mesh Setting
Page
..........
.............................
31
32
34
31
(Using Pinion Depth Gauge Tool DD 1244)
Drive Pinion Depth Of Mesh Setting
(Using Tool C-758-D4)
Gear Tooth Contact Pattern
Lubrication
Pinion Bearing Preload
Page
. . . . .
.......................
....................
...................................
........................
Rear Axle Assembly (Removal)
.................
Rear Axle Assembly (Installation) ..............
38
39
41
43
40
31
42
MyMopar.com
3-30
REAR AXLE
GENERAL INFORMATION
With the increased torque output of the 440 cubic inch engine with Power Pak and the 426 cubic inch
Hemi engine in vehicles equipped with 4-speed man- ual transmission, the 9-3/4" rear axle assembly will appedr on Coronet and Charger models that are so equipped (Fig. 1).
The standard differential case used in both in- stances will be of the plate clutch type Sure-Grip Dif- ferential. In some instances where a high numerical ratio gear set is installed, a new differential case will have to be purchased and installed due to the differ- ence in ring gear mounting dimensions. The standard ratio gear set used with both the 440 and 426 engines will be 3.54 ratio. Optional matched gear sets with ratios of 4.10, 4.56 and 4.88 will be available for deal- er installation on models equipped with the 9-3/4" diameter axle assembly.
The rear axle is of the integral carrier-housing, hypoid gear type in which the centerline of the drive
0 pinion is mounted below the centerline of the gear. ring
The rear axle housing is an iron casting with tubu- lar legs pressed into and welded to the carrier to form a carrier and tube assembly. A removable stamped steel cover is bolted to the rear of the carrier to permit visual inspection of the differential without removing the complete rear axle from the vehicle.
A small metal tag is attached beneath one of the cover screws to identify the axle ratio. This tag is stamped with the number of teeth on the drive pinion and ring gear, and by dividing the larger number
(ring gear teeth) by the smaller number (drive pin- ion) the axle ratio can be determined.
The drive pinion is supported by two preloaded taper roller bearings. The rear pinion bearing cone is a tight press-fit on the pinion stem. The front pinion bearing is a light-press fit to a close sliding fit on the pinion stem. The front and rear bearing cups are a press-fit against a shoulder recessed in the carrier.
The drive pinion depth of mesh adjustment is con-
BEARING CONE
IDE GEAR RING
Fig. 1-93/4" Rear Axle Assembly
MyMopar.com
0 trolled by locating shims, are installed between the rear pinion bearing cup and the carrier casting.
Drive pinion bearing preload is maintained by using different thicknesses of shim packs between the drive pinion bearing shoulder and front pinion bearing cone.
The differential case is supported by two taper roller bearing cones which are a press-fit on the dif- ferential case hubs. Shims installed between the bear- ing cone and shoulder of hub of differential case, per- form three functions: They eliminate the differential case side play; they adjust and maintain the backlash between the ring gear and drive pinion; and establish a means of obtaining differential bearing preload.
The rear axle shafts are mounted on taper roller
REAR AXLE 3-31
bearings which are located at the outer ends of the axle housing tubes. The bearings are pressed onto the shoulder of the shaft and held in place by a collar that has a very tight interference fit. The bearings are lubricated with Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI Grade
2 E.P. Oil seals are pressed into the outer ends of the housing tubes to prevent oil leakage from the center section of the axle into the wheel bearings and onto the brake assembly. The outer retainer clamps the bearing and cup into the housing bore and also clamps the brake support plate to the studs of the housing tube. Axle shaft end play is adjusted by means of a threaded adjuster located in the right axle shaft bearing retainer. Axle shaft end play must be maintained at ,008”-.018”.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
CAUTION: When servicing cars equipped with 9-3/4” axles, DO NOT use the engine to rotate axle com- ponents unless both wheels are clear. These axles can exert significant driving force with one wheel.
DIFFERENTIAL NOISE
(C hatter-Moan)
It is suggested that before the axle assembly is disassembled for any type noise complaint, that the lubricant be changed. An improper lubricant can cause such noises as chatter and moan as well as scoring of the differential clutch plates and discs re- sulting in a possible failure of the unit.
(1) With lubricant of rear axle assembly at operat- ing temperature raise car on hoist so rear wheels are free to turn. much of the old lubricant as possible. cant Part Number 2585318 or equivalent. Reinstall fill plug and tighten. run on hoist with rear wheels free to turn at ap- proximately 40 (MPH) for ten (10) minutes. This thoroughly circulates the lubricant and brings it to operating temperature.
AXLE SHAFTS AND BEARINGS
CAUTION: It is absolutely necessary that anytime an axle assembly i s serviced, and the axle shafts are loosened and removed, the axle shaft gaskets and inner axle shaft oil seals must be replaced.
The service procedures for the axle shafts and bearings are the same as that described under the
8-3/4” ex- ception being that of axle shaft end play which will be maintained within the tolerances of .008-.012
Whenever the rear axle shafts have been removed from the axle assembly, always determine that the thrust spacers have not fallen 6ut of the pinion shaft.
The spacers may be observed through the axle shaft opening of the axle housing. This may be done with the aid of a small flashlight. If the spacers are out of place, it will be necessary to disassemble the differen- tial to reinstall them.
Install axle shaft inner oil seal using Tool C-4026.
The above tool positions the seal the proper dimension from the axle shaft bearing shoulder in the axle housing in order that seal will definitely contact the machined sealing surface of the axle shaft.
CAUTION: Under no circumstances should axle shaft collars or bearings be removed using a torch. The use of a torch in the removal of the axle shaft collars or bearings is an unsafe practice, because heat is fed into the axle shaft bearing journal and, thereby weakens this area. as much of the old lubricant as possible.
(6) Refill axle to proper level with new Sure-Grip
Lubricant Part Number 2585318 or equivalent. Rein- stall fill plug and tighten.
(7) Lower car on hoist and return to customer to drive and evaluate for approximately 100 miles to determine if lubricant corrects the noise condition.
If after driving vehicle approximately 100 miles and the differential noise is still evident, remove the axle assembly and service the differential with the necessary parts.
REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY
Removal
Should it become necessary to remove rear axle assembly for overhaul or repair, proceed as follows: floor. Support body at front of rear springs.
MyMopar.com
3-32 REAR AXLE
0
(2) Block brake pedal in the up position using a wooden block.
(4) rear wheels.
Disconnect hydraulic brake lines at wheel cyl- inders and cap fittings to prevent loss of brake fluid.
(5) Disconnect parking brake cables.
To maintain proper drive line balance when reas- sembling, make scribe marks on the propeller shaft universal joint and the pinion flange before removal.
(6) Disconnect propeller shaft at differential pin- ion flange and secure in an upright position to pre- vent damage to front universal joint.
(7) Remove shock absorbers from spring plate studs and loosen rear spring “U” bolts nuts and re- move “U” bolts.
(8) Remove axle assembly from vehicle.
DIFFER ENTlAL
Removal and Disassembly
(1) Position carrier and tube assembly in a suitable holding device; such as the jaws of a vise with the carrier cover facing upward. Thoroughly clean the outer area of carrier and tubes with a suitable clean- ing solvent and blow dry with compressed air.
(2) Loosen and remove cover screws and remove carrier cover. Tilt assembly and drain lubricant into a container. differential, bearings, ring gear and pinion and inter- nal surfaces and blow dry with compressed air.
(4) In preparing to measure drive gear back face runout (provided no side play was found) mount a dial indicator Tool C-3339 2) and load the indicator stem slightly when plunger is at right angles to back face of drive gear.
(5) Measure drive gear back face runout by ro- tating drive gear several complete revolutions and reading dial indicator. Mark drive gear and differen-
\-.-
4 7
NN1021 fig. 3-Bearing Cap IdentMccrtion tial case at point of maximum runout. The marking of differential case will be very helpful later in check- ing differential case runout. Total indicator readings in excess of .006 inch might indicate possible loose drive gear or damaged differential case. A test for differential case runout will be described later.
(6) Check the clearance between the differential bearing cap and bearing cup by trying to insert a piece of .003 inch feeler stock between them. A .003 inch feeler should not enter between the bearing‘cap and cup. A clearance of more than .003 be caused by bearing cup having turned in carrier, causing excessive wear. and face of carrier housing seal surface (Fig. 3). Let- ters stamped on left side are in horizontal position while right side are in vertical position. Always match identifying letters for proper reassembly.
(8) Loosen and remove the differential bearing caps and locate spreader Tool W-129 seated in locating holes of axle housing. Turn tool screw finger tight at this time.
NN1020
Fig. 2-Measuring Drive Gear Runou?
Attach dial indicator and load indicator stem slightly against opposite side of axle housing (Fig. 4).
(10) Tighten spreader tool nut sufficiently to ob- tain .015 inch movement of dial indicator to permit removal of differential case and ring gear assembly.
DO NOT SPREAD OVER .020 INCH AS IT WILL
RESULT IN PERMANENT DAMAGE TO CARRIER
CAST1 NG.
1) Remove dial indicator and remove differential case and ring gear assembly from axle housing. A light prying action with a screwdriver or pinch bar will loosen assembly for easy removal (Fig. 5). Pry up differential case and ring gear as straight up as possible using leverage against differential case and carrier to prevent damage. Keep respective bearing
MyMopar.com
REAR
AXLE 3-33
Fig. &Spreading Rear Axle Housing cups with bearing cones, if they are not worn or dam- aged and are to be reassembled.
(12) Place the differential case between the soft jaws of a vise and remove the drive gear screws and discard. Using a fiber mallet, tap the drive gear loose from the differential case pilot and remove.
(13) If the drive gear runout exceeded .006 inch in step 5 differential case flange runout should be re- measured. Install differential case with respective bearing c u p into axle housing. Loosen nut of spreader tool and remove. Install bearing caps and tighten snugly. Mount dial indicator in contact with flange face of differential case (Fig. 6) and measure runout as described in Step 5. Total allowable runout should not exceed .003 inch. It is often possible to reduce excessive runout by positioning drive gear 180 degrees from point of maximum runout when reassembling ring gear on differential case.
(14) Position carrier and tube assembly in vise with nose of carrier in the up position. Remove drive pinion nut and washer. Using Tool C-452 and holding
Tool C-3281, remove drive pinion flange.
(15) Using Tool C-748, remove drive pinion oil seal.
Remove slinger, gasket, front pinion bearing cone
. ---
Fig. 6-Mwsuring Differential Case Drive O w r
Mounting Flange Face Runov) and preload shim pack. Record the thickness of the shims in case they should be lost.
(16) Position the carrier and tube assembly on an arbor press, then press out the drive pinion stem and rear bearing cone assembly.
(17) With the aid of a brass drift and hammer, drive out the front and rear pinion bearing cups from hous- ing. Remove the shim from behind the rear bearing cup and record the thickness of shim pack.
(18) Remove rear bearing cone from drive pinion stem using Tool DD-914C or Tool C-293 and adapters
No.
37.
(19) Remove differential bearing cones from dif- ferential case hubs using Tool DD-914C or Tool C-
293 and adapters No. 62 (Fig. 7). Care must be taken to insure that bearing remover adapters are located so as not to pull on bearing cage.
(20) Remove the shims located behind each bear- ing and record thickness to aid in reassembly.
Fig. 5-Removing Differential and D r k o Gear
Assembly Fig. 7-Removing Differential Bearings
MyMopar.com
3-34
REAR AXLE
0
PINION SHAFT
PINION SHAFT
DIFFERENIIAL PINION
THRUST MEMBER
DIFFERENTIAL PINION
KR26OA
Fig. 8-Sure-Grip Differential (Schematic)
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
The sure-grip differential (Figs. 8, 9 and 10) is similar to the conventional differential except for the addition of friction plates and Belleville plates and discs for clutching the differential case to the differ- ential gears and a means for engaging these plates.
The Belleville plates and discs accomplish a positive engagement of the clutch discs and plates at all times by placing a preload on the plates and discs. It has four pinion gears, positioned in the case by two pin- ion shafts which are at right angles to each other and loose fitting at their inter-section. Both ends of each shaft have two flat surfaces, or ramps, which mate with identical ramps in the differential case. There is additional clearance in the case to permit a slight peripheral movement of the ends of the pinion shafts within the case.
Disassembly
(1) Remove axle drive gear. Measure runout of the drive gear mounting flange. Replace both case halves if runout exceeds .003 inch.
(2) Before disassembling case halves, place scribe marks on each half to aid in aligning the case when reassembling (Fig. 11). Remove case cap attaching bolts and remove case cap (Fig. 12). Remove clutch plates (Fig. 13).
(3) Remove side gear retainer (Fig. 14) and side gear (Fig. 15).
(4) Remove pinion shafts with pinion gears (Fig.
16).
(5) Remove remaining side gear (Fig. 17), side gear retainer (Fig. 18) and clutch plates (Fig. 19).
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
(1) Wash and clean all parts in a suitable cleaning solvent and with the exception of bearing cones, dry
LE DRIVE PINION
IFFERENTIAL CASE
AXLE SHAFT
AXLE SHAFT
I
DIFFERENTIAL
KR 261
Fig. 9-Power Flow Axle Shafts turning at Same Speed
DIFFERENTIAL
DIFFERENTIAL PINION
KR 262 fig. 10-Power Flow Axle Shafts turning at Different Speeds
MyMopar.com
0
REAR AXLE
3-35
GEAR
SIDE GEAR
RETAINER
KR718
Fig. 1 1-Case Halves Scribed for Proper Reassembly
Fig. 14-Removing or Installing Side Gear
Retainer (Cap Side)
:R721A
CASE CAP-
HAFl
SPP rCER
BEL1
Fig. 12-Removing or Installing Differential
Case Cap
.
KR 722
Fig. 15-Removing or Installing Side Gear (Cap Side)
----
--
%
- l__l_l
KR720B
Fig. 13-Removing or Installing Clutch Plates
(Cap Side)
AXLE
THRU
Fig. 16-Removing or Installing Pinion Shafts and Gears
MyMopar.com
3-36
REAR AXLE
SIDE
R E l
CLUTCH
PLATES
0
7
KR724A
Fig. 17-Removing or Installing Side Gear from
Differential Case with compressed air. To clean axle housing tubes, insert a stif€ wire into tube, attach a clean cloth to wire at center section and withdraw from center outward.
(2)
All
machined contact surfaces in the axle hous- ing and differential bearing caps should be smooth and free of any raised edges. Front and rear pinion bearing cup bore machine surfaces should be smooth.
Raised metal on shoulders of bores incurred in re- moval of cups should be flattened by use of a flat nosed punch.
(3) Axle shaft oil seal bores at both ends of housing should be smooth and free of rust and corrosion.
This also applies to brake support plate and housing flange face surface.
(4) Axle shaft bearings should be washed and cleaned and inspected for any pitting, spalling or im- perfections in surface of bearing cup. If bearings are found to be unfit for further use they must be re- placed. See “Axle Shaft Assembly Procedure.”
(5) Axle shaft splines should be smooth and straight
A
C
-.+
%
”./
KR725A
Fig. 18-Removing or Installing Side Gear Retuiner
KR726A
Fig. 19-Removing or Installing Clutch Plater and Discs and free of excessive wear. The axle shaft oil seal journal should be smooth and free of nicks, scratches or corrosion. To remove any imperfections, polish the area with #600 crocus cloth (without reducing diameter of axle shaft oil seal journal).
(6) Differential bearings and front and rear pinion bearing cone and cup assemblies should have a smooth appearance with no broken or dented surfaces on rol- lers or roller contact surfaces. The bearing roller retainer cages must not be distorted or cracked. When replacing bearings, always replace the cup and cone in a set only.
(7) Inspect drive gear and pinion for worn or chipped teeth or damaged attaching bolt threads. If replacement is necessary, replace both the drive gear and drive pinion as they are available in matched sets only.
(8) Inspect universal joint flange for cracks, worn splines, pitted, rough or corroded oil seal contacting surface. Repair or replace universal joint flange as necessary.
(9) Inspect drive pinion bearing shim pack for broken, damaged or distorted shims. if nec- essary, during establishment of pinion bearing p r e load.
(10) Clean all differential parts and inspect parts for wear, nicks and burrs. The inner and outer flat clutch plates and outer flat clutch disc should be re- placed if they are worn or distorted. If either case half is worn, it will be necessary to replace both halves.
ASSEMBLING THE DIFFERENTIAL CASE
(1) Position clutch plates and discs in their proper location in each half of the case (Fig. 20).
(2) Place side gears in their retainers. Insert splines of retainers through the splines of clutch discs.
MyMopar.com
C R E
DISHED DISC
A R AXLE
3-37
SIDE GEAR
AND RETAINER
/
FLAT PLATE DISHED PLATE ND126C
Fig. 20-Arrangement of Plates and Discs
9-3/4" Differential
(3) Place aligning pin through one axle shaft thrust spacer. Assemble pinion shafts on aligning pin.
(4) Place pinion gears on shafts and install assem- bly in drive gear half of case.
(5) Slide cap half of case over the edge of bench far enough to insert one finger up through the as- sembly to hold it together. Place the assembly on drive gear half, matching scribe marks.
(6) Make sure markings on each differential case half coincide. Install the differential case bolts and turn in a few threads.
(7) With shafts installed, center the cross shafts be- tween the two ramp surfaces in differential case.
Tighten differential case bolts evenly by alternately turning opposite bolts until all are tightened to 45 foot-pounds. To keep splines of the side gear and clutch plates in exact alignment during the tightening procedure, move axle shafts back and forth as bolts are being tightened. After assembly, slight misalign- merits of the splines can be corrected by moving axle shafts back and forth until free. Remove axle shafts.
I
NSTALLATI 0 N-DI FFER EN TI AL CASE
AND DRIVE GEAR
The contacting surfaces of the drive gear and dif- ferential case flange must be clean and free of all burrs. Dress down surfaces with a file as needed.
(1) Position drive gear on differential case pilot, aligning threaded holes of drive gear with those in differential case flange.
(2) Insert drive gear screws through case flange and into drive gear. After all cap screws are properly started, tap drive gear against differential case flange with a non-metallic mallet.
(3) Clamp unit between brass jaws of a vise and alternately tighten each cap screw to 100-120 foot- pounds.
(4) Position each dserential bearing cone on hub
NN 1026A
Fig. 2 1 -Installing Differential Bearing Cones of differential case (without shims), small end away from drive gear, using Tool (2-4025 (Fig. 21). An arbor press may be used in conjunction with installing Tool.
CAUTION: Never exert pressure against the bearing cage, since this would damage the bearing and make it unfit for further use.
(5) Position differential bearing cups on their re- spective cones and insert differential case in carrier.
Install bearing caps in their correct positions and tighten bearing cap bolts finger tight.
(6) Install dial indicator fixture with indicator pointer contacting back face of drive gear.
(7) Insert a screwdriver blade between bearing cup and housing and pry case assembly as far as pos- sible to one side of housing (Fig. 22). Set dial indica- tor at zero. Using screwdriver, pry case to opposite side of housing and record the reading.
This reading indicates the amount of shims needed to take up the clearance between the differential bear- ing and the case* The shim pack thickness to be placed on bearing hub between baring cone and dit- ferentia1 Case Will be calculated later in the PrOCedUrO after installation of drive pinion and depth of mesh setting.
NN1027
Fig. 22-Determining Shims to Obtain "0"
End Clearance
MyMopar.com
3-38 REAR AXLE
0
(8) Remove dial indicator, loosen bearing cap bolts and remove bearing caps. Remove dserential as- sembly from housing.
DRIVE PINION DEPTH
OF
MESH SElllNG
(Using Pinion Depth Gauge Tool DD1244)
Note the figures etched on the head of the drive pinion and observe (Fig. 23). One figure is found on both the drive pinion and ring gear and indicates a matched gear set. Directly opposite this figure will be one with a
+ or the figure will be 0.
- or if not a
+ or -,
This number must be positively identified before continuing with the assembly pro- cedure. Midway between the two sets of figures de- scribed above are numbers and letters. These numbers and letters are etched for manufacturing purposes only, but as one of these numbers may be 0, it might be confused with the number needed for assembly procedure. A rule to follow would be to first examine the shaft end for a
+ or -
If a
+ or
- ber is not etched on the pinion head, then the num- ber will be 0.
(1) Install rear drive pinion bearing cup and shim pack in carrier. The starting shim pack t o be placed between the rear cup and carrier can be determined from the shims removed and the etched marking on the pinion. The
+ or - from the nominal distance between the front of the pinion and the center line of the carrier. For example, if a pinion marked +2 was originally installed with a shim pack .035 inch' and the new pinion is marked
-1, the shim pack should be increased .003 inch to bring the new pinion to its correct position and the new shim pack would be .038 inch. This will give an approximate setting of the pinion. A pinion depth gauge should be used for final setting of the pinion, see steps 6 through 14. Shims are available in .003,
.005 and inch thickness.
(2) Install front pinion bearing cup in carrier.
(3) Lubricate rear drive pinion bearing cone with
REAR
PINION
KD 382
Fig. 24-Installing Rear Pinion Bearing Cone
Sure-Grip Lubricant, Part Number 2585318, or equiva- lent, and install bearing cone on pinion stem with
Tool DD-955 (Fig. 24).
(4) Position drive pinion and bearing assembly in carrier and install front pinion bearing cone on pinion stem. Do not install preload shims behind front pinion bearing at this time.
(5) Install universal joint pinion flange followed by washer and nut. Tighten nut just enough to obtain
10-30 inch-pounds of preload. Rotate drive pinion while tightening to seat bearing rollers.
(6) The pinion depth gauge Tool DD-1244 (Fig. 25), is a direct reading precision micrometer, mounted in an arbor and is calibrated to show the distance from the end of the anvil to the centerline of the gauge set.
To check the accuracy of the gauge, install the micro- meter and arbor in the master gauge. Install the checking block and read the micrometer, it should be accurate within less than ,0005 inch (Fig. 26).
(7) Select the proper adapters from the gauge set
GEAR
MAITING
ML
(SAME AS O N DRIVE
U L ~ R I
-
-
Fig. 23-Drive Pinion Markings
NY425A
Fig. 25-Pinion Depth Oougo tool DD- 1244
MyMopar.com
n
REAR AXLE 3-39
AXLE PINION I
MODEL SETTING
I
Fig. 26-Checking Gauge in Master Gauge
Assembly that fits the differential bearing cup bores. Install the adapters on the arbor and position in carrier housing.
Install bearing caps and tighten cap bolts up snug.
Fig. 28-Pinion Setting ,Dimensions sions 3.125 which will be the corrected dimension of
3.127. pinion setting is within -.001 inch to +.003 inch, the pinion position can be assumed to be cor- rect. If the setting is outside these limits, it should be corrected by adding or removing the proper thick- ness shim behind the rear pinion bearing cup. carrier housing. Position step plate over pinion and tighten step plate screw against step plate. Make sure the four step plate feet are squarely positioned on the pinion.
(9) so it is directly over and at a 90 degree angle to the step plate. Screw the micrometer down until the anvil contacts the top of the step plate (Fig. 27). Read the micrometer and make a note of the reading. The step plate measures
.400 inch thick, therefore, add the .400 inch step plate thickness to the micrometer reading.
(10) 28 shows the nominal pinion setting dimensions for 0 (zero) marked pinion. Pinions with a
+ or -
For example, if a pinion marked t 2 being installed in a 9-3/4" axle, add the +2 to pinion setting dimen- drive pinion.
(13) is necessary, remove drive pinion rear bearing cup and add or remove shims as determined in preceding Step 9. Measure each shim separately with a micrometer. shims and recheck pinion depth measurement, de- scribed previously.
DRIVE PINION DEPTH OF MESH
(Using Tool C-758-D4)
Rear axle setting gauge Tool C-758-D4 install drive pinion bearing cups as well as to deter- mine pinion depth of mesh.
(1) Start both drive pinion bearing cups into axle housing.
(2) by positioning spacer bearing cone on tool screw and insert into axle hous- ing. screw of tool followed by compression sleeve SP-535, centralizing washer SP-534, and main screw nut
SP-533.
(4) Lubricate drive pinion bearing cones with Sure-
Grip Lubricant, Part Number 2585318,
Fig. 27-Determining Pinion Depth Setting sion sleeve from turning with Tool C-3281, nut, thereby drawing pinion bearing cups into axle housing bearing cup bores. Permit tool to turn several revolutions during tightening operation to permit bearing rollers to align and prevent brinnelling of
MyMopar.com
3-40 REAR AXLE
r ) bearing cups. Do not remove tool after installing cups. Pinion depth of mesh will be determined next. stalling drive pinion bearing cups, loosen tool nut and re-tighten nut to produce 10-30 preload. Rotate while tightening to align bearing rollers.
(7) SP-528 on main tool and tighten Screw with an Allen wrench securely.
(8) Position cross bore arbor SP-5183 ing differential bearing seats. Center the arbor so that an approximate equal distance is maintained at both ends. Correctly position differential bearing caps and insert bolts and tighten to 10 foot-pounds. ness of shims that will snugly fit between arbor and gauge block. This fit must be snug but not too tight
(similar to the pull of a feeler gauge). This measure- ment is then used in determining the correct thick- ness shim pack for installation behind the rear pin- ion bearing cup and carrier casting (Fig. 29).
(10) select a shim pack for installation, read the markings on the end of pinion head (-0, -1,
-2, +1, +2, etc.). When marking is - that amount to the thickness of shim pack selected in step (9).
+
(plus), subtract that amount. Treat other pinion markings in a similar manner. Shims are available in .003, and .010 inch thickness.
(11) the tool arbor and tool from housing. axle or soft punch and hammer, remove rear pinion bearing cup from casting.
(14) Lubricate rear drive pinion bearing cone with
Sure-Grip Lubricant, Part Number 2585318
or
equiva- lent and install bearing cone on pinion stem using
Tool DD-955. tion with tool (Fig. 24). carrier and install the original front pinion bearing shim pack followed by the bearing cone. Do not install oil seal at this time.
Tighten nut 250-270 eral complete revolutions to seat bearing rollers.
(17) C-685, measure pinion bearing preload by rotating pinion with handle of wrench floating (Fig. 30). Take read- ing while handle is moving through several complete revolutions. Accurate reading can be made only with nose of axle in upright position. Correct preload is 10-20 Add shim to decrease preload and Subtract shims to increase preload. Shims are available in the following thicknesses: .003, .005,
.010, inch.
(18) has been established, remove the universal joint flange, nut and washer. seal installing Tool C-3719, seal.
Tighten nut 250-270
PINION BEARING PRELOAD
and front pinion bearing cone. ing cup bore and install rear bearing cup as de- scribed previously in steps (1 thru 5). When cup is properly seated, remove tool and pinion bearing cones. pack followed by the bearing cone. Do not install oil seal at this time.
Tighten nut 250-270 c
NP414
Fig. 29-Determining Shim Puck Thickness for
Drive Pinion Depth of Mesh
NN1030
Fig. 30-Checking Pinion Bearing Preload
MyMopar.com
3
REAR AXLE
3-41 era1 complete revolutions to align and seat bearing rollers.
(4) Using an inch-pound torque wrench C-685, measure pinion bearing preload by rotating pinion with handle of wrench floating (Fig. 30). Take reading while handle is moving through several complete revolutions. Accurate reading can be made only with nose of axle in upright position. Correct preload is
10-20 inch-pounds. Add shims to decrease preload and subtract shims to increase preload. Shims are avail- able in the following thicknesses: .003, .005, .010, and
(5) After the correct bearing preload has been es- tablished, the pinion depth setting should be re- checked.
(6) Remove universal joint flange nut and washer.
(7) Install oil slinger and gasket. Using Tool
C
3719, install drive pinion oil seal.
(8) Install universal joint flange, washer and nut.
Using Tool (2-3281 to hold flange, tighten pinion nut
250-270 foot-pounds. Recheck pinion bearing pre-load.
DIFFERENTIAL BEARING PRELOAD AND
DRIVE GEAR AND PINION BACKLASH
(1) With drive pinion and bearings installed and bearing preload set, install differential case and ring gear assembly with their respective bearing cups. In- stall bearing caps in their positions, align identifica- tion marks and tighten cap bolts finger tight.
Refer to the measurement taken previously in step
(7) of “Installation-Differential Case and Drive Gear”.
This reading taken before the drive pinion was installed represents the total clearance between the differential bearing cups and the carrier casting. Per- form the following steps to determine the thicknesses of shims required behind each bearing cone to take up the clearance and establish the correct bearing pre- load and backlash.
(2) Install a dial indicator and position the contact point against back face of ring gear. Move the differ- ential and ring gear assembly tight against the drive pinion, set the dial indicator on 0. Move the differen- tial and ring gear assembly in the opposite direction as far away from pinion as possible and note the read- ing on dial indicator.
This reading represents the thickness of shim pack necessary to take up the clearance between the bear- ing cup and the case on the ring gear side of the dif- ferential assembly. Subtract this reading from the previously recorded total reading to obtain the amount of shims necessary to take up the clearance between the bearing cup and the case at the pinion side of the differential.
(3) Remove differential and ring gear assembly from carrier.
(4) Remove differential bearing cones. Install the correct thickness shim pack as determined in step 2 between bearing cone and differential case hub shoulder using Tool C-4025. Add an additional .015 inch shims to the drive gear side of differential and install the differential bearing cones. This additional
,015 inch shim pack provides the correct bearing pre- load and backlash.
(5) Position spreader Tool W-129 in locating holes of carrier and tighten screw finger tight. Install dial indicator and spread carrier .015 to .020 inch Do not exceed this limit to permit placing of differential and ring gear assembly in carrier.
(6) Install the bearing caps in their respective positions as indicated by identification marks on caps and carrier. Remove the spreader tool. Coat the bear- ing cap bolt threads with sealing compound and install and tighten bolts snugly.
(7) Tap the drive gear lightly with a rawhide ham- mer to properly seat the differential bearing and cups.
Care must be taken in this operation to prevent nick- ing the teeth of ring gear or drive pinion as they are meshed together. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to 70-
90 foot-pounds.
(8) Attach a dial indicator to carrier and with in- dicator contact point contacting ring gear tooth (Fig.
31), measure the backlash between the ring gear and drive pinion.
(9) Check backlash at four equally spaced points around circumference of ring gear. Backlash must be held between .004-.009 inch and cannot vary more than .002 inch between the four positions checked.
If backlash does not fall within these specifications, change shim pack thickness on both differential bear- ing hubs to maintain proper bearing preload and backlash.
GEAR TOOTH CONTACT P A l l E R N
The gear tooth contact pattern will disclose whether
NN1031
Fig. 3 1 -Checking Backlash Between Drive
Gear and Pinion
MyMopar.com
3-42
REAR AXLE
PATTERN CLOSE TO CENTER
PAlTERN MOVES TOWARD CENTER
AND DOWN
0
-
HEEL END-DRIVE
SIDE (CONVEX)
HEEL END-COAST
SIDE (CONCAVE) NR198
Fig. 32-Desired Tooth Contact Under Light Load the correct rear pinion bearing mounting shim has been installed and the drive gear backlash set prop- erly. Backlash between the drive gear and pinion must be maintained within the specified limits until correct tooth contact pattern is obtained.
(1) Apply a thin film of red or white lead on both the drive and coast side of the drive gear teeth. Ro- tate drive gear one complete revolution in both direc- tions while load is being applied with a round bar or screwdriver between the carrier casting and differen- tial case flange. This action will leave a distinct con- tact pattern on both the drive and coast side of the drive gear teeth.
(2) Observe the contact pattern on the drive gear teeth and compare with those in figures 32, and 35 to determine if pattern is properly located. With pinion depth of mesh and gear backlash set properly, your contact pattern should resemble that in (Fig.
32). Notice that the correct contact pattern is well centered on both drive and coast sides of the teeth.
When tooth contact patterns are obtained by hand, they are apt to be rather small. Under the actual operating load, however, the contact area increases. find it resembles that in (Fig. 33), the drive pinion is too far away from centerline of the ring gear, the contact pattern will appear high on the heel on drive
THICKER SPACER NEEDED
-
HEEL END- DRIVE
SIDE (CONVEX)
HEEL E N D ~ C O A S T
SIDE (CONCAVE) NRm
Fig. 34-Effect on Tooth Contact Pattern a s Shim
Pack Thickness is Increased side and high on toe on coast side. To correct this type tooth contact pattern, increase the thickness of shim pack located behind the rear pinion bearing cup (Fig. 34), which will cause the high heel contact on drive side to lower and move toward the toe; the high toe contact on coast side will lower and move toward the heel.
(4) If after observing the contact pattern and you find it resembles that in (Fig. 35), the drive pinion is too close to the ring gear, the pattern will appear low on the toe on drive side and low heel contact on coast side. To correct this type tooth contact pattern, de- crease the thickness of shim pack located behind the rear pinion bearing cup (Fig. 36), which will cause the low toe contact on drive side to raise and move toward the heel; low heel contact on coast side will raise and move toward the toe.
REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY
Installation
(1) Making sure the gasket surfaces of both the cover and carrier housing are clean, install a new gasket followed by the cover and tighten the cover bolts to 15-25 bolts, install the ratio identification tag.
(2) For correct procedure when installing axle
THINNER SPACER NEEDED
1_
HEEL END-DRIVE
SIDE (CONVEX)
HEEL
1 -
END'ZEOAST
SIDE (CONCAVE) NR1w
Fig. 33-Incorrect Tooth Contact Pattern
(Increase Shim Pack Thickness)
I
HEEL END-DRIVE
SIDE (CONVEX)
HEEL END-COAST
SIDE (CONCAVE) NRm1
Fig. 35-Incorrect Tooth Contact Pattern
(Decrease Shim Pack Thickness)
MyMopar.com
0-
PAlTERN MOVES INWARD AND UP
REAR AXLE
3-43
(6) Connect hydraulic brake lines at wheel cyl- inders and bleed brakes, install brake drums and adjust brakes.
(7) Install rear universal joint of propeller shaft in same position as removed (match scribe marks on propeller shaft universal joint and pinion flange).
Tighten universal joint clamps to 170-200 inch pounds.
(8) 65 foot- pounds in the proper tightening sequence.
HEEL END-DRIVE
SIDE (CONVEX)
HEEL
END-TOAST
SIDE (CONCAVE) NRB2
Fig. 36-Effect on Tooth Contact Pattern as Shim
Pack Thickness is Decreased
LUBRICATION
Refill axle housing and carrier assembly with 5-1/2 pints of lubricant. Sure-Grip differentials, use only the special multi-purpose gear lubricant intended for axles equipped with plate-clutch Sure-Grip differen- tials. Such a lubricant is available under Part Number shafts and bearings and setting axle shaft end play, see “Axle Shafts and Bearings”.
(3) With body supported at front of rear springs, position rear axle assembly spring pads over the spring center bolts.
“U” 45 foot-pounds and install shock absorbers on spring plate studs.
(5) Connect parking brake cables.
”SHOULD THE REAR AXLE BECOME SUBMERGED
IN WATER, THE LUBRICANT MUST BE CHANGED
IMMEDIATELY TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF
EARLY AXLE FAILURE RESULTING FROM CON-
TAMINATION OF THE LUBRICANT BY WATER
DRAWN INTO THE VENT HOLE.”
SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL
INDEX
Installing Sure Grip Differential and
Carrier Assembly
Lubrication
............................
...................................
Sure Grip Differential Identification
Sure Grip Differential Noise
Page
.............
....................
46
46
44
44
Sure Grip Differential
Removal
Assembly
..........................
....................................
Cleaning & Inspection
.......................
...................................
Testing Sure Grip Differential
Page
..................
45
45
45
45
45
GENERAL INFORMATION
A new Sure-Grip differential being offered as a special equipment option in the 7-1/4” and 8-3/4” rear axles will appear in the 1969 vehicle models
(Fig. 1).
The Sure-Grip differential design is basic and sim- ple and consists of a two piece case construction and is completely interchangeable with the conventional differential and also the previous type Sure-Grip dif- ferential (Fig. 2).
A conventional differential allows the driving wheels to rotate at different speeds while dividing the driving torque equally between them. This function is ordinarily desirable and satisfactory. However, the total driving torque can be no more than double the torque at the lower-traction wheel. When traction con- ditions are not the same for both driving wheels, a portion of the available traction cannot be used.
The SURE-GRIP differential allows the driving wheel with the better traction condition to develop more driving torque than the other wheel, so that the total driving torque can be significantly greater than with a conventional differential.
SURE-GRIP is not a locking differential. In normal driving conditions the controlled internal friction is easily overcome during cornering and turning so that the driving wheels can turn at different speeds. Ex- treme differences in traction conditions at the driving wheels may permit one wheel to spin.
SURE-GRIP has been engineered to perform its specialized functions with minimum effect on normal vehicle operations.
The cone clutch SURE-GRIP differentials are simi- lar to corresponding 8-3/4” except for the incorporation of the helix-grooved cones that clutch the side gears to the differential case. The grooves assure maximum lubrication of the clutch surface during operation. The cones and side gears are statically spring preloaded to provide an
MyMopar.com
3-44
REAR AXLE
NU404
Fig. I-Sure-Orip Differential internal resistance to differential action within the differential case itself. This internal resistance pro- vides pulling power while under extremely low trac-
0 tive conditions such as mud, snow countered at one of the rear wheels. or ice when en-
During torque application to the axle, the initial spring loading of the cones is supplemented by the gear separating forces between the side gears and differential pinions which progressively increases the friction in the differential. It should be remembered that the Sure-Grip differential is not a positive lock- ing type and will release before excessive driving force can be applied to one wheel.
SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL IDENTIFICATION
Identification of sure-grip differential asse'mbly can easily be made by lifting both rear wheels off the ground and turning them. If both rear wheels turn in the same direction simultaneously, the vehicle is equipped with a Sure-Giip Differential. Another means of identification is by removing the filler plug and using a flashlight to look through the filler plug hole to identify the type of differential case.
SUR E-G
(C
R I
P DIFFER ENTl AL NOISE
hatter-Moan)
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Noise complaints related to rear axles equipped with cone-clutch SURE-GRIP should be checked to determine the source of the noise. If a vehicle ride check produces the noise in turns but not straight ahead, the probable cause is incorrect or dissipated
PINIONS
,SIDE GEARS
COIL SPRING-
L W
Fig. 2-Sure-Grip Differential (Schemcrtic)
'CONE CLUTCH
NU405
MyMopar.com
0
REAR AXLE
3-45 rear axle lubricant. The following draining and flush- ing procedure has been established for the Sure-Grip
Differential before it is removed from the vehicle and replaced.
CAUTION: When servicing vehicles equipped with
SureGrip differentials do not use the engine to rotate axle components unless both rear wheels are off the ground. Sure-Grip equipped axles can exert a signifi- cant driving force if one wheel is in contact with floor and could cause the vehicle to move.
(1) With lubricant of rear axle assembly at oper- ating temperature raise car on hoist so rear wheels are free to turn.
(2) Loosen and remove fill plug and using a suction gun remove as much of the old lubricant as possible.
(3) Fill axle to proper level with Multi-Purpose Hy- poid Gear Lubricant Part Number 2933565 or equiva- lent. Reinstall fill plug and tighten.
(4) Start engine and engage in gear and run on hoist with rear wheels free to turn at approximately
40 MPH for ten (10) minutes. This thoroughly cir- culates the lubricant and brings it to operating tem- perature.
( 5 ) Stop vehicle and remove the fill plug and using a suction gun remove as much of the lubricant as pos- sible.
(6) Refill axle to proper level with multi-Purpose
Hypoid Gear Lubricant Part Number 2933565 or equivalent. Reinstall fill plug and tighten.
(7) Lower vehicle on hoist and return to owner to drive and evaluate for approximately 100 miles to de- termine if lubricant corrects the noise complaint.
If after the vehicle is driven approximately 100 miles and the noise condition is still evident, remove the differential and carrier assembly and replace the
Sure-Grip Differential. The Sure-Grip Differential and the internal parts are serviced as an assembly only.
TEST1 NG SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL
The Sure-Grip differential can be checked to deter- mine if its performance is satisfactory without remov- ing the differential and carrier assembly from the vehicle.
(1) Position vehicle on a hoist with engine off and the transmission selector lever in park if automatic or in low gear if manual.
(2) Attempt to rotate wheel by applying turning force with hands gripping tire tread area (Fig. 3).
(3) If you find it extremely difficult, if not impos- sible to manually turn either wheel, you can consider the sure-grip differential to be performing satisfac- torily. If you find it relatively easy to continuously turn either wheel the differential is not performing properly and should be removed and replaced. The
Sure-Grip Differential and internal parts are serviced as a complete assembly only. Under no circumstances
,
NU406
Fig. &-Testing Sure-Grip Differential Effectiveness should the differential be removed and disassembled and reinstalled.
SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL
CAUTION: During removal and installation of axle shafts, DO NOT rotate on axle shaft unless both are in position. Rotation of one axle shaft without the other in place may result in misalignment of the two spline segments with which the axle shaft spline en- gages, and will necessitate difficult realignment pro- cedures when shaft is installed.
Removal
Follow the same procedure outlined under conven- tional differential removal.
Cleaning and lnspection
(1) Clean the Sure-Grip differential assembly in a fast evaporating mineral spirits or a dry cleaning sol- vent and with exception of bearings, dry with com- pressed air.
(2) Inspect differential bearing cones, cups and roll- ers for pitting, spalling or other visible damage. If replacement is necessary, remove bearing cones from differential case using Tool C-293 and adapter plates
No. 43.
(3) Visually inspect differential case for cracks or other visible damage which might render it unfit for further service.
Assembly
If during cleaning and inspection the differential bearings were found to be unfit for further use and were removed follow this procedure for installation of new bearings.
(1) Position each differential bearing cone on hub of differential case (taper away from drive gear) and with installing Tool C-4086, install bearing cones. An
MyMopar.com
3-46 SPECIFICATIONS
arbor press may be used in conjunction with installing tool. CAUTION: Never exert pressure against the bearing cage, since this would damage the bearing.
(2) If the ring gear was removed from the sure- grip differential case or is being replaced with a new ring gear for any reason, new nylok drive gear screws must be installed.
IMPORTANT: The procedure for installing the ring gear on differential case for the 8-3/4” axle differs from that of the 7-1/4” axle. This procedure must be followed so the ring gear seats on the differential case properly.
(3) Using an Arkansas stone, relieve the sharp edge of the chamfer on the inside diameter of the ring gear
(Fig. 24), in 8-3/4” Axle section of this group). This is very important, otherwise during the installation of ring gear on differential case, the sharp edge will re- move metal from the pilot diameter of case and can get imbedded between differential case flange and gear; causing gear not to seat properly.
(4) Position ring gear on differential case pilot aligning threaded holes of ring gear with those in dif- ferential case flange.
(5) Insert drive gear screws (left hand threads) through case flange and into ring gear. After all cap screws are properly started, tap ring gear against dif- ferential case flange with a non-metallic mallet.
(6) Position differential case unit between brass jaws of a vise and alternately tighten each cap screw to 55 foot-pounds.
NOTE: Before installation of differential case into car- rier lubricate the inside of differential assembly with
Multi-Purpose Hypoid Gear Lubricant Part Number
2933565 or equivalent. Do not use any other lubricant other than this special lubricant.
Q
(7) Follow procedure outlined in conventional axle assembly for setting drive pinion depth of mesh, drive gear backlash adjustment and bearing preload adjust- ment.
INSTALLING SURE-GRIP DIFFERENTIAL
AND CARRIER ASSEMBLY
(1) Using a new gasket install carrier assembly in axle housing. Tighten mounting nuts to 45 foot- pounds.
(2) Refer to “Installation of Rear Axle Shaft”, when installing axle shafts.
(3) Connect the rear universal joint.
(4) Before lowering the rear wheels of the vehicle to the floor, adjust rear brakes. CAUTION: Both roar wheels must be raised off the floor when adjusting brakes.
LUBRICATION
Every six months check the fluid level in the axle through the filler plug hole. When checking the level, be sure the vehicle is in a level position on an axle or drive on type hoist. “See Lubrication Section” for proper level of specific axle assembly.
In Sure-Grip Differentials, use only the Multi-Pur- pose Hypoid Gear Lubricant Part Number 2933565
or
equivalent. Do not use any other lubricant other than this special lubricant.
Above
As low as
Below
Temperature Range
-
-
-
Viscosity Grade
SAE 90
SAE 80
SAE 75
SPECIFICATIONS
7-114‘’ Axle
TYPE
Ring Gear Diameter
Number of
Type
Differential Pinions
DIFFERENTIAL BEARINGS
Adjustment by
Carrier Bearing Preload Spread
PINION AND DRIVE GEAR BACK LASH
PINION BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT BY
PINION BEARING DRAG TORQUE
PINION DEPTH OF MESH ADJUSTMENT BY
RUNOUT-CASE AND DRIVE GEAR
WHEEL BEARING TYPE
LU B R I CAT ION
Capacity
.........
.............................................. as defined by MIL-L-2105B axles, such a lubricant is available under Part No. 2933565 Hypoid Gear
Lubricant.
....................................
...................................................
...................................
..............................
......................
..................................
.........................
...................................
............................................
.........................................................
.254-.284 is
Semi-Floating Hypoid
Spacer Washer inch in .002 inch graduations
.003-.006
.004-.007”at point used
7.250
2 of minimum on all rear back
Spacer Washers
,074-.lo6 inch in .001 variations
.084-.100
15-25 inch-pounds
Spacer Washers
,002
.005
inch Maximum
Single Row Sealed Ball
2 pints (13/4 Imperial) lash
MyMopar.com
0
SPEC I FICATIO
NS 3-47
8-314” Axle
TYPE
.............................................................
Ring Gear Diameter
..............................................
PINION BEARINGS
Type
............................................................
N urn ber Used
....................................................
Adjustment (Small Stem or Large Stem Step Pinions)
(Large Stem Tapered Pinion)
Pre-Load Torque (Seal Removed)
..............
..........................
.................................
DIFFERENTIAL BEARINGS
Type
............................................................
Number Used
Adjustment
...................................................
......................................................
RING GEAR AND PINION
Serviced in
Back Lash
......................................................
Ring Gear Runout
................................................
.......................................................
DIFFERENTIAL SIDE GEAR CLEARANCE
With Gauge
......................................................
WHEEL BEARINGS
Type
............................................................
Adjustment
End Play
Lubrication
.....................................................
........................................................
......................................................
Semi-Floating Hypoid
8.750
Tapered Roller
2
Select Shims
Collapsible Spacer
20-30 inch-pounds
Tapered Roller
2
Adjusting Nut
Matched Sets
.005” Max.
.006
to
,008’’
.001 to ,012’’
Tapered Roller
Adjusting Nut
.008-.018
Multi Purpose
Grease NLGl grade 2 E.P.
LUBRICATION
Capacity
Type
........................................................
4 Pints (3-1/4 Imperial)
.........
Multi-Purpose Gear Lubricant as defined by MIL-L-2105B is used on all rear axles. such a lubricant is available under Part No. 2933565, Hypoid
Gear Lubricant.
9-3/4” Axle
TYPE
~~ ~ ..............................................................
Ring Gear Diameter
..............................................
PINION BEARINGS
Type
............................................................
Number Used
Adjustment
......................................................
Pinion bearing drag Torque (seal removed)
DIFFERENTIAL
Bearings (Type)
Number Used
........................
....................................................
..................................................
....................................................
Pre-Load Adjustment
.............................................
RING GEAR AND PINION
Serviced in
...........................................
Pinion depth of mesh adjustment
Pinion and Ring Gear Backlash
.................................
...................................
Runout-differential case and ring gear backface
....................
WHEEL BEARINGS
Type
Adjustment
End Play
........................................................
Lubrication
......................................................
Sem-Floatng Hypoid
9.750
Taper Roller
2
Select Shims
10-20 inch-pounds
Sure-Gri p
Taper Roller
2
Select Shims
Hypoid
Matched Sets
Select Shims
.004-.009” of minimum backlash
.006” maxi m u m
Taper Roller
Threaded Adjusting Nut
.008-.018
Automotive Multi Purpose
Grease NLGl grade 2
LU BR 1 CATION
Capacity
Type..
.........................................................
5 1 / 2 Pts. (4-1/2 Imperial)
........
.Use only the special multi-purpose lubricant intended for use in Plate-
Clutch Sure-Grip differentials. Such a lubricant is available under Part
No. 2585318, Special Sure-Grip Lubricant.
MyMopar.com
3-48
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
Differential Bearing Cap Bolts
Ring Gear to
Drive Pinion Flange Nut
Carrier Cover Bolts
Axle Shaft Retainer Nuts
Propeller Shaft Bolts (Rear)
Spring Clip (U Bolt) Nuts
Wheel Stud Nuts
...........................................
Differential Case Bolts (Left Hand Thread)
................................................
Shock Absorber Stud Nuts (Lower)
....................
.............................................
.......................................
Differential Bearing Cap Bolts
Ring Gear to Differential Case Bolts (Left Hand Thread)
Drive Pinion Flange Nut (Small Stem or Large Stem Step Pinions)
(Large Stem Tapered Pinions)
Carrier to Axle Housing Bolt Nuts
Axle Shaft Retainer Nuts
Propeller Shaft Bolts (Rear)
Spring Clip (U Bolt) Nuts
..........
........................................
..............................................
Wheel Stud Nuts
........................................................
Shock Absorber Stud Nuts (Lower)
Differential Bearing Cap Bolts
Differential Case Half Retaining
Ring Gear To Differential Case Bolts
Drive Pinion Flange Nut
Carrier Cover Bolts
Axle Shaft Retainer Nuts
Propeller Shaft Bolts (Rear)
Spring Clip (U-Bolts) Nuts
Wheel Stud Nuts
Shock Absorber Stud Nuts
Bolts
.....................................................
.............................................
..............................................
..............................................
7-114'' Axlo
Pounds
Foot Inch
40
55
240 (Min.)
35
15
40 (Max.)
55
50
8-314" Axla
Pounds
Foot Inch
90
55
240 (Min.)
170 (Min.)
45
35
15
45
65
50
Foot
9314" Axle
Pounds
Inch
70-90
35-45
30-35
45
65
50
0
MyMopar.com
0 GROUP 5
CONTENTS
DISC BRAKES (BENDIX)
MASTER CYLINDER
PARKING BRAKES
Page
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
DISC BRAKES (KELSEY-HAYES)
GENERAL INFORMATION
POWER BRAKES (BENDIX)
. . . . . . . .
34
24
POWER BRAKES (KELSEY-HAYES)
POWER BRAKES (MIDLAND-ROSS).
Page
. . . . . .
24
...
18-19
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1 SERVICE BRAKES
.....................
1-5
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
16 SPECIFICATIONS
...........
10-45
21-22
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
......................
WHEEL CYLINDERS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1
48
13
GENERAL INFORMATION
The new Models are equipped with servo contact, two shoe, internal expanding brakes with application adjusters. The lower ends of the brake shoes are con- nected by a tubular star wheel adjusting screw (Figs.
1, 2 or 3). Police cars with heavy duty brakes are not self-adjusting.
Condition
PEDALGOESTO
FLOOR
SPONGYBRAKEPEDAL
BRAKES PULLING
SQUEALING BRAKES
SERVICE BRAKES
S
ERVl
CE
DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause
(a) Fluid low in reservoir.
(b) Air in hydraulic brake system.
(c) Improperly adjusted brake.
(d) Leaking wheel cylinders.
(e) Loose or broken brake lines.
(f) Leaking or worn master cylinder.
(g) Excessively worn brake lining.
Correction
(a) Fill and bleed master cylinder.
(b) Fill and bleed hydraulic brake system.
(c) Repair or replace self-adjuster as re- qu i red.
(d) Recondition or replace wheel cylinder and replace both brake shoes.
(e) Tighten all brake fittings or replace brake line.
(f) Recondition or replace master cyl- inder and bleed hydraulic system.
(g) Reline and adjust brakes.
(a) Air in hydraulic system. (a) Fill master cylinder and bleed hy- draulic system.
(b) Improper brake fluid (low boiling (b) Drain, flush and refill with brake fluid. point).
(c) Excessively worn or cracked brake (c) Replace a l l faulty brake drums. drums.
(d) Broken pedal pivot bushing. (d) Replace nylon pivot bshing.
(a) Contaminated lining.
(b) Front end out of alignment.
(c) Incorrect brake adjustment.
(d) Unmatched brake lining.
(e) Brake drums out of round.
(f)
(g) Restricted brake hose or line.
(h)
Brake shoes distorted.
Broken rear spring.
(a) Replace contaminated brake lining.
(b) Align front end.
(c) Adjust brakes and check fluid.
(d) Match primary, secondary with same type of lining on all wheels.
(e) Grind or replace brake drums.
(f) Replace faulty brake shoes.
(g) Replace plugged hose or brake line.
(h) Replace broken spring.
(a) Glazed brake lining.
(b) Saturated brake lining. (b) Replace saturated lining.
(c) Weak or broken brake shoe retaining (c) Replace retaining spring, spring.
(d) Broken or weak brake shoe return (d) Replace return spring.
(g) spring.
(e) Incorrect brake lining.
(f) Distorted brake shoes.
Bent Support Plate.
(a)
(e)
Cam grind or replace brake lining.
Install matched brake lining.
(f) Replace brake shoes.
(g) Replace support plate.
MyMopar.com
5-2
BRAKES
0
Condition
CHIRPING BRAKES
DRAGGING BRAKES
HARD PEDAL
WHEEL LOCKS
BRAKES FADE
(HIGH SPEED)
PEDAL PULSATES
BRAKE CHATTER
SHOE KNOCK
AND
BRAKES DO NOT
SELF ADJUST
Possible Cause Correction
Dust in brakes or scored brake drums. (h) Blow out brake assembly with com- pressed air and grind brake drums.
Out of round drum or eccentric axle (a) Repair as necessary. flange pilot.
Incorrect wheel or parking brake ad- (a) Adjust brakes and check fluid. justrnent.
Parking brakes engaged. (b) Release parking brakes.
Weak or broken brake shoe return (c) Replace brake shoe return spring. spring.
Brake pedal binding. (d) Free up and lubricate brake pedal and
I i
(g)
Master cylinder cup sticking. (e) Recondition master cylinder.
Obstructed master cylinder relief port. (f) Use compressed air and blow out re- lief 00rt.
Saturated brake lining.
(h) Bent or out of round brake drum.
(g) Replace brake lining.
(h) Grind or replace faulty brake drum.
(a) Brake booster inoperative.
(b) Incorrect brake lining.
(c) Restricted brake line or hose.
(d) Frozen brake pedal linkage.
(a) Replace brake booster.
(b) Install matched brake lining.
(c) Clean out or replace brake line or hose.
(d) Free up and lubricate brake linkage.
(a) Contaminated brake lining. (a) Reline both front or rears of all four brakes.
(b) Loose or torn brake lining.
(c) Wheel cylinder cups sticking.
(b) Replace brake lining.
(c) Recondition or replace wheel cylinder.
(d) Incorrect wheel bearing adjustment. (d) Clean, pack and adjust wheel bear- ings.
(a) Incorrect lining. (a) Replace lining.
(b) Distorted or out of round brake (b) Grind or replace drums. drums.
(c) Overheated brake drums. (c) Inspect for dragging brakes.
(d) Incorrect brake fluid (low boiling (d) Drain, flush, refill and bleed hydraulic tern peratu re).
(e) Saturated brake lining. brake system.
(e) Reline both front or rear or all four brakes.
(a) Bent or out of round brake drum. (a) Grind or replace brake drums.
(a) Out of round brake
(c) Bent support plate.
(d) Distorted brake shoes.
(c) Replace support plate.
(d) Replace brake shoes.
(e) Machine grooves in contact face of (e) Grind or replace brake drum.
(f) drum.
(b) Loose support plate. brake drum. (Shoe Knock).
Contaminated brake lining.
(a) Grind or replace brake drums.
(b) Tighten suppo;t plate bolts to proper specifications.
(f) Replace either front linings. or rear or all four
(a) Adjuster screw frozen in thread. (a) Clean and free-up all thread areas.
(b) Adjuster screw corroded a t thrust (b) Clean threads and replace thrust washer. washer if necessary.
(c) Adjuster lever does not engage star ( c ) Repair, free up or replace adjuster as wheel.
(d) Adjuster installed on wrong wheel. required.
(d) Install correct adjuster parts.
ADJUSTING SERVICE BRAKES
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Normally self adjusting brakes will not require manual adjustment but in the event of a brake reline it may be advisable to make the initial adjustment manually to speed up the adjusting time.
(1) Jack up vehicle so a l l wheels are free to turn.
(2) Remove rear adjusting hole cover from brake supports of vehicle.
(3) Be sure parking brake lever is fully released, then back off parking brake cable adjustment so there is slack in cable.
MyMopar.com
0
BRAKES
5-3 c/
ND504B
Fig. !-Adjusting Brakes
(4) Insert adjusting tool (2-3784, of adjusting screw. Move handle to tool upward until a slight drag is felt when road wheel is rotated.
(5) Insert a thin screw driver into brake adjusting hole and push adjusting lever out of engagement with star wheel. (Care should be taken
90 as not to bend adjusting lever (Fig. l), out of engagement, back off star wheel to insure a free wheel with no brake shoe drag.
(6) Repeat above adjustment at each wheel. The adjustment must be equal to all wheels. Install ad- justing hole covers in brake supports.
(7) ment.
Adjust parking brake after wheel brake adjust-
It is important to follow the above sequence to avoid the possibility of the parking brake system causing brake drag as may occur if the parking brakes are ad- justed before the service brakes.
Fig. 2-Wheel Stud N u t lightening Sequence the adjuster lever up. Upon application of the brake pedal, the lever should move upward, turning the star wheel. Thus, a definite rotation of the adjuster star wheel can be observed if the automatic adjuster is working properly. If by the described procedure one or more adjusters do not function properly, the respective drum must be removed for adjuster serv- icing.
BLEEDING BRAKE SYSTEM
Clean all dirt and foreign material from the cover of the master cylinder to prevent any dirt from falling into the master cylinder reservoir when the cover is removed.
Using the one man bleeder tank C-3496-B
TESTING APPLICATION ADJUSTER
OPERATION
Place the vehicle on a hoist, with a helper in the driver’s seat to apply the brakes. Remove the plug from the rear adjustment slot in each brake sup- port plate to observe the adjuster star wheel. Then, to exlude the possibility of maximum adjustment; that is, the adjuster refuses to operate because the closest possible adjustment has been reached; the star wheel should be backed off approximately
30 notches. It will be necessary to hold the adjuster lever away from the star wheel to allow backing off of the adjustment.
Spin the wheel and brake drum in the reverse direction and apply the brakes vigorously. This will provide the necessary inertia to cause the secondary brake shoe to leave the anchor. The wrap up effect will move the secondary shoe, and the cable will pull
Fig. 3-Cutting and Flaring Steel tubing
MyMopar.com
5-4
BRAKES
0 adapter) provides a convenient means of keeping the master cylinder full while pressurizing the hydraulic system for bleeding. (Complete bleeding of the dual master cylinder is important! See Bleeding the Master
Cylinder in this Section.) Manual Bleeding is not rec- ommended.
Tighten the brakes of each wheel until the brakes are locked. (This reduces the movement of the wheel cylinder cups and assists in bleeding).
Starting with the right rear wheel clean all dirt from the bleeder valve. Place bleeder hose C-650 on the bleeder valve and insert the other end of the bleeder hose into a clear jar half filled with clean brake fluid. (This will permit the observation of air bubbles as they are being expelled from the hydrau- lic system and also prevent air from being drawn back into the system. (Follow the manufacturers in- structions in the use of the bleeder tools.)
Continue this bleeding operation on the other wheels, starting with the left rear wheel, then the right front and finishing with the left front wheel.
If necessary, repeat this bleeding operation if there is any indication (a low, soft or spongy brake pedal) of air remaining in the hydraulic system. Readjust the brakes as described previously.
TEST FOR FLUID CONTAMINATION
To determine if contamination exists in the brake fluid (as indicated by swollen or deteriorated rubber cups), the following test can be made.
Place a small amount of the drained brake fluid into a small clear glass bottle. Separation of the fluid into distinct layers will indicate mineral oil content.
If there is any question of mineral oil content, as indicated by swollen or deteriorated rubber parts, drain and flush thoroughly and replace all rubber parts.
WHEEL STUD NUT TIGHTENING
The tightening sequence and torquing of the wheel stud nuts is of great importance to insure efficient brake operation. The use of an impact or long handled wrench may distort the drum.
A criss-cross tightening sequence should be used
(Fig. 2). Tighten all the stud nuts to one-half the specified torque first, (30 ft. lbs.), and then repeat the sequence tightening to the specified 55 foot-pounds.
(65 foot pounds on 10 and 11 inch brakes).
BRAKE HOSE AND TUBING
The flexible hydraulic brake hose should always be installed in the vehicle by first tightening the male end of the hose in the wheel cylinder or rear axle housing tee. The hose is then clipped to the hose bracket in a manner to give minimum twist. Exces- sive twist can result in hose interferewe problems with possible hydraulic system failure.
Inspection of brake hose and tubing should be included in all brake service operations. The hoses should be checked for:
(1) Correct length, severe surface cracking, pulling, scuffing or worn spots. (Should the cotton fabric casing of the hose be exposed to weather by cracks or abrasions in the rubber hose cover, eventual de- terioration of the hose can take place with possible burst failure).
(2) Faulty installation to cause twisting, wheel, tire or chassis interference.
Always use factory recommended hose to insure quality, correct length and superior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure that the tube and hose mating surfaces are clean and free from nicks and burrs. New copper seal washers should be used and the tube nuts and connections should be properly made and tightened. Double wall steel tubing should always be used to insure superior fatigue life. Care should be taken when replacing brake tubing, to use the proper bending and flaring tools and to avoid routing the tubes against sharp edges, moving com- ponents or in hot areas. All tubes should be properly attached with recommended retaining clips.
Steel tubing is used to conduct hydraulic pressure to the front and rear brakes. Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes and at a rear axle junction block. Steel tubing is used from the junction block to both rear wheel cylinders. All fittings, tubing and hoses should be inspected for rusted, damaged or de- fective flaring seats. The steel tubing is equipped with a double flare or inverted seat to insure more positive seating in the fitting. To repair or reflare tubing pro- ceed as follows:
(1) Using Tool C-3478, cut off damaged seat damaged tubing (Fig. 3).
(2) Ream out any burred or or rough edges showing on inside edges of tubing. This will make the ends of tubing square and insure better seating of flared end tubing. Place compression nut on tubing prior to flar- ing tubing.
(4) To flare tubing open handles of flaring Tool
C-3838 and rotate jaws of tool until the mating jaws of tubing size are centered in area between vertical posts.
(4) Slowly close handles with tubing inserted in jaws but do not apply heavy pressure to handle as this will lock tubing in place.
(5) Place gauge “Form A” on edge over end of tubing and push tubing through jaws until end of tubing contacts the recessed notch of gauge matching the size of tubing (Fig. 3).
(6) Squeeze handles of flaring tool and lock tubing in place.
MyMopar.com
0
BRAKES
5-5
(7) Place proper sized plug of gauge “A” down in end of tubing. Swing compression disc over gauge and
(9) Remove gauge and apply lubricant to tapered end of flaring screw and continue to screw down until center tapered flaring screw in recess of disc. tool is firmly seated in tubing.
(8) Lubricate taper of flaring screw and screw in (10) Remove tubing from flaring tool and inspect until plug gauge has seated on jaws of flaring seat. tool. This action has started to invert the extended end of the tubing.
(11) Clean seat and tube of any lubricant before connecting to hydraulic system.
SERVICE BRAKES
Brake Drum Removal
Front Brake Drums
Rear Brake Drums
Brake Shoe Removal
Front Brake Shoes
Rear Brake Shoes
..........................
..........................
Page
...........................
...........................
Cleaning and Inspection
.......................
5
6
6
7
7
INDEX
Grinding Recommendations
Brake Shoe Installation
Front Brake Shoes
Rear Brake Shoes
Front Brake Drums
Rear Brake Drums
....................
...........................
...........................
Brake Drum Installation
..........................
...........................
Page
8
8
9
9
9
SERVICE PROCEDURES
The eleven inch brakes used on Police and heavy duty vehicles, (Fig. 3) are equipped with manual adjusters.
The service procedures covering these brakes are identical to the passenger car, with exception of reference to application adjusters. Illustrations of the various service procedures will not always show any one specific brake.
BRAKE D R U M REMOVAL
Removing Front Brake Drums
To aid in brake drum removal loosen brake star adjusting wheel.
(1) Remove rear plug from brake adjusting access hole.
(2) Insert a thin screw driver into brake adjusting hole and push adjusting lever away from star adjust-
WHEEL CYLINDER
\
ANCHOR
I
SHOE TABS (3) ing wheel. Care should be taken not to bend adjusting lever.
(3) Insert Tool (2-3784 into brake adjusting hole and engage notches of brake adjusting star wheel.
Release brake adjustment by prying down with adjust- ing tool.
(4) Remove wheel cover, grease cap, cotter pin, lock, adjusting nut, outer wheel bearing and remove wheel and drum assembly from spindle to expose
ANCHOR
PLATE
SECONDARY SHOE
RETURN SPRING,
SUPPORT PLATE
SHOE TABS (3)
DJUSTER CABLE
SHOE RETAINER
AND LINING
LEFT FRONT (STAR WHEEL) EVER
FRONT OF
VEHICLE LEFT REAR
Fig. I-Nine Inch Brake Assembly
FRONT OF
VEHICLE NU52
MyMopar.com
5-6 BRAKES
PRIMARY RETURN
D SHOE STRUT
SPRING WASHER
0
OVERLOAD SPRING
RIGHT FRONT
AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER SPRING
FRONT OF VEHICLE+
RKING BRAKE
ECONDARY SHOE
AND LINING
T PLATE SHOE TABS
LEFT REAR
(3)
ADJUSTER SCREW ASSEMBLY
(STAR WHEEL) c
NU53 brake linings. (Figs. 1 , 2 or 3).
(5)
Fig. 2-Ten Inch Brake Assembly
Inspect brake lining for wear, shoe alignment, or contamination from grease or brake fluid.
(4) Remove rear wheel and clips from wheel studs that holds drum on axle. Remove drum.
(5) Inspect brake lining for wear, shoe alignment or contamination from grease or brake fluid.
Removing Rear Brake Drums
(1) Remove rear plug from brake adjusting access hole.
(2) Insert a thin screw driver into brake adjusting hole and hold adjusting lever away from notches of adjusting screw.
(3) Insert Tool C-3784 into brake adjusting hole and engage notches of brake adjusting screw. Release brake by prying down with adjusting tool.
BRAKE SHOE REMOVAL
Removing Front Brake Shoes
(1) Using Tool C-3785 remove brake shoe return springs (Fig. 4). (Note how secondary spring overlaps primary spring). (Fig. 1).
(2) Slide eye of automatic adjuster cable off anchor and unhook from adjusting lever. Remove cable, over- load spring, cable guide and anchor plate.
WHEEL ,CYLINDER
POLICE AND HEAVY DUTY
‘ADJUSTING STAR WHEEL’ POLICE AND HEAVY DUTY
Fig. 3-Eleven Inch Brake Assembly lPolke and Heavy Duty)
NU218
MyMopar.com
BRAKES
5-7
ADJUSTER
\ADJUSTING
LEVER
LEVER 'SPRING NU241
Fig. 4-Removing or Installing Shoe Return Springs
(Left Front)
(3) Disengage adjusting lever from spring by slid- ing forward to clear pivot, then working out from under spring. Remove spring from pivot. Remove automatic adjuster spring from primary shoe web and disengage from secondary shoe web. Remove spring.
(4) Remove brake shoe retainers, springs and nails, using Tool C-4070, (Fig. 5).
(5) Disengage primary and secondary shoes from push rods (if so equipped) and remove from support.
Remove adjusting star wheel assembly from shoes.
Removing Rear Brake Shoes
(1) Remove rear wheel, and drum retaining clips.
Remove drum.
(2) Using Tool C-3785, remove brake shoe return springs (Fig. 6). (Note how secondary spring overlaps primary spring). (Fig. 1).
(3) Slide eye of automatic adjuster cable off anchor and
SECONDARY
PRIMARY SHOE
AND LINING
Fig. 6-Removing or Installing Shoe Return Springs
(Left Rear) overload spring, cable guide and anchor plate.
(4) Disengage adjusting lever from spring by slid- ing forward to clear pivot, then working out from under spring. Remove spring from pivot. Remove automatic adjuster spring from primary shoe web and disengage from secondary shoe web. Remove spring.
( 5 ) Remove brake shoe retainers, springs and nails.
Using Tool C-4070, (Fig. 7).
(6) Spread anchor ends of primary and secondary shoes and remove parking brake lever strut and anti- rattle spring (Fig. 8).
(7) Disengage parking brake cable from parking brake lever.
( 8 ) Disengage primary and secondary shoes from push rods (if so equipped) and remove from support.
Remove adjusting star wheel assembly from shoes.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Wipe or brush clean (dry) the metal portions of the
/
RETAINER
Fig. 5-Removing o r Installing Shoe Retainers,
Springs and Nails (Right Front)
Fig. 7-Removing or Installing Shoe Retainers,
Springs and Nails (Right Rear)
MyMopar.com
0
5-8
BRAKES
PRIMARY SHOE
RETURN SPRING‘
Y A l
-
PLATE
I1 ISTFR
Fig. 8-Removing or Installing Parking Brake Strut and Spring (Left Rear) brake shoes. Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if the shoes are bent. The lining should show contact across the entire width, extending from heel to toe. Shoes showing contact only on one side should be replaced. Shoes having sufficient lining but lack of contact at toe and heel should be measured for proper grind.
Clean the support, using a suitable solvent, then inspect for burrs. Remove if necessary. Clean and lubricate threads of the adjusting screws, then inspect for pulled or stripped threads.
New brake shoe return springs and hold down springs should be installed where the old springs have been subjected to overheating or if their strength is questionable. Spring paint discoloration or distorted end coils would indicate an overheated spring.
GRINDING RECOMMENDATIONS
Brake Shoe Lining-New lining should be meas- ured and ground .060” to .080” (maximum under the drum diameter). When replacing brake shoe and lin- ing assemblies, always check them in the drum they are to be used with to insure that they have the recommended radius grind. This grind, which should provide at least .004 inch heel and toe clearance, is necessary for proper lining to drum contact during brake application.
Drum Refacing-Measure the drum runout with an accurate gauge. Drum runout should nbc exceed
.006 inch out of round. If the drum runout is in excess of .006 inch, (total indicator run-out) the drum should be refaced. Remove only as much material as is nec- essary to clean up the drum. Do not reface more than
.060 inch over the standard drum diameter.
BRAKE SHOE INSTALLATION
lnstalling Front Brake Shoes
Lubricate shoe tab contact area (6 places) on sup- port plate with Chrysler support plate lubricant, Part number 2932524 or equivalent (Fig. 11).
(1) Match a primary with a secondary brake shoe and place them in their relative position on a bench. work primary and secondary shoes, with a star wheel next to secondary shoe (Fig. 1). (The left star wheel adjust- ing stud end is stamped “L” which indicates its posi- tion on vehicle). The left side star wheel is cadmium plated. The right is black, and the adjusting stud end is not stamped. hook other end in web of primary. Install adjusting lever spring over pivot pin on shoe web. Install adjust- ing lever under spring and over pivot pin. Slide lever slightly rearward to lock in position (Fig. 1). adjusting wheel assembly in position.
(5) Holding brake shoes firmly, place assembly on support plate, and at the same time engage shoe webs with push rods (if so equipped). (Fig. 9).
(6) Using Tool C-4070, springs and retainers. (Fig. 5).
(7) Install anchor plate over anchor. against anchor plate. Engage end of primary shoe re- turn spring in shoe web and install other end anchor, using Tool C-3785. ing in position, engage secondary shoe return spring through guide and into web. Install other end over anchor, using Tool C-3785. mains flat against shoe web, and that secondary spring overlaps primary). (Fig. 1). Using pliers, squeeze ends
PRIMARY
DARY SHOE
7’N1NG
Fig. 9-Installing Brake Shoes (Left Front) over
MyMopar.com
0
BRAKES 5-9 uANCHOR PLATE
WAVE WASHER d
HORSESHOE
<CLIP
SHOE CONTACT
AREA (6)
Fig. IO-Installing Brake Shoes (Left Rear) of spring loops (around anchor) until parallel.
(10) Thread adjuster cable over guide and hook end of overload spring in lever (Fig. 1). (Be sure “eye” of cable is pulled tight against anchor and in a straight line with guide).
Installing Rear Brake Shoes
Lubricate shoe tab contact area (6 places) on sup- port plate with Chrysler support plate lubricant, Part number 2932524 or equivalent (Fig. 11).
(1) Install parking brake lever on inner side of sec- ondary shoe web after lubricating pivot with support plate lubricant. Secure with wave washer and horse- shoe clip.
(2) Engage parking brake lever with cable, then slide secondary shoe against support plate, and at the same time engage shoe web with push rod (if so equipped), and against anchor.
(3) Slide parking brake strut behind hub and into slot in parking brake lever. Slide anti-rattle spring over free end of strut. (Fig. 8). On ten inch brakes, be sure spring tab is pointing rearward and up on outside of shoe web (Left Brake), and pointing frontward and down behind shoe web (Right Brake) (Fig. 8). On eleven inch brakes, be sure spring tab is pointing for- ward and down and outside of shoe web (Left Brake), and pointing frontward and down behind shoe web
(Right Brake) (Fig. 3).
(4) Slide primary shoe into position and engage with push rod (if so equipped), and free end of strut.
Install anchor plate over anchor, then install eye of adjuster cable over anchor. (Fig. 10).
(5) Engage primary shoe return spring in web of shoe and install free end over anchor, using Tool
3785. (Fig. 6).
C-
(6) Install cable guide in secondary shoe web. Hold-
Fig. I I -Shoe Contact Area on Support ing in position, engage secondary shoe return spring through guide and into web. Install other end over anchor, using Tool C-3785. (Be sure cable guide re- mains flat against shoe web and that secondary spring overlaps primary). (Fig. 1). Using pliers, squeeze ends of spring loops (around anchor) until parallel.
(7) Install adjusting star wheel assembly between primary and secondary shoe, with star wheel next to secondary shoe. (Fig. 1). The left star wheel adjusting stud end is stamped on vehicle. The left side star wheel is cadmium plated.
The right is black, and the adjusting stud,end is not stamped. Install adjuster spring between shoes (Fig.
1). (Engage secondary shoe first).
(8) Install adjusting lever spring over pivot pin on shoe web. Install adjusting lever under spring and over pivot pin. Slide lever slightly rearward to lock in position.
(9) Using Tool C-4070, install shoe retaining nails retainers and springs. (Fig. 7).
(10) Thread adjuster cable over guide and hook end of overload spring in lever. (Fig. 1). (Be sure eye of cable is pulled tight against anchor and in a straight line with guide).
Installing Front Brake Drums
(1) Lubricate wheel bearings and install brake drum and adjust wheel bearing to proper preload.
(2) Adjust brakes as described under “Service
Procedures” at front of this Section. lnstalling Rear Brake Drums
(1) Install brake drum and retaining clips. Install wheel and tire assembly.
(2) Adjust brakes as described under “Service
Procedures” at front of this Section.
MyMopar.com
5-10
BRAKES
0
MASTER CYLINDER
(Drum Brakes)
INDEX
Bleeding Master Cylinder
Cleaning and Inspection
......................
12 Installing Master Cylinder
.......................
Disassembling Master Cylinder
General Information
...........................
Hydraulic System Safety Switch
Page
.................
...............
11
10
10
13
Master Cylinder Removal
Reassembling Master Cylinder
Testing Master Cylinder
......................
......................
Page
.................
.......................
12
10
11
13
GENERAL INFORMATION
The tandem master cylinder (Fig. 1) is of the com- pensating type with the reservoirs cast integrally.
The master cylinder consists of a front and rear pis- ton (in tandem) two outlets, each contain a residual pressure valve and spring (Fig. 4).
The front outlet tube from the master cylinder is connected to the hydraulic system safety switch
(Figs. 8 and 9) and thence to the rear brakes. The rear outlet tube from the master cylinder is also connected to the safety switch and the front brakes.
The master cylinder used on vehicles not equipped with power brake units is serviced in the same man- ner as the master cylinder with power brakes, with one exception, the master cylinder for power brakes does not include the push rod.
The disc brake master cylinder is different than the standard drum brake master cylinder and is cov- ered in the disc brake section of the brake group.
MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL
SERVICE PROCEDURES
(1) Disconnect front and rear brake tubes from master cylinder (residual pressure valves will keep cylinder from draining).
(2) Remove nuts that attach master cylinder to cowl panel and/or power brake unit (if so equipped).
(3) Disconnect pedal push rod (manual brakes) from brake pedal.
(4) Slide master cylinder straight out from cowl panel and/or power brake unit (if so equipped).
DISASSEM BLI N G MASTER CY LI N DER
To disassemble the master cylinder, (Figs. 1 and
4) clean outside of master cylinder thoroughly.
(1) Remove cover retaining bolt, and clamp then remove cover and gasket. Empty brake fluid from reservoirs.
(2) Loosen piston retainer screw then press in on rear piston and flip retainer up to release rear piston assembly (Fig. 3). Slide rear piston assembly out of cylinder bore.
(3) Remove screw and gasket that retains front piston; then, upending master cylinder, tamp (open end down) on bench to remove front piston. If front piston sticks in bore of cylinder, use air pressure to force piston out of cylinder. New cups must be installed at reassembly if air pressure is used.
(4) Remove front piston compression spring from bore.
( 5 ) Remove rubber cups from pistons, after noting positions of cup lips.
RETAINING SET SCREW
Fig. 1 -Tandem Master Cylinder
NP17B TUBE SEAT
Fig. 2-Removing lube S e a t s
NP18A
MyMopar.com
0
BRAKES
5-11 inder bores that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, providing diameter of bore is not increased more than .002 inch. If master cylinder bore does not clean up at .002 should be discarded and a new master cylinder in- stalled.
If master cylinder pistons are badly scored or corroded, replace them with new ones. “he piston cups and seals should be replaced when recondition- ing a master cylinder.
When overhauling a master cylinder, use all parts furnished in repair kit. Discard all used rubber parts.
RESIDUAL PRESSURE
VALVE SPRING
Fig. 3-Removing or lnstulling Residuul
Pressure Vulve
Do not remove the primary cup of the rear piston.
If cup i s damaged or worn, install a new rear piston assembly.
(6) Using Tool (or an easy out) remove tube seats by threading tool firmly into seat, tap tool and seat out of cylinder body. (Fig. 2).
(7) Remove two residual pressure valves and springs (Fig. 3).
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean master cylinder thoroughly, using a suitable solvent and dry with compressed air. Wash the cyl- inder bore with clean brake fluid and inspect for scoring or pitting. Master cylinder bore walls that have light scratches or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned with crocus cloth. However, cyl-
REASSEMBLING MASTER CYLINDER
Front Piston
Before assembling the master cylinder, dip all component parts in clean brake fluid and place on a clean shop towel or paper (assembling seals dry, can ruin them).
(1) Carefully work primary cup on end of front piston with the lip away from piston (Fig. 4).
(2) Slide “0” ton and into correct land.
(3) Carefully work front piston secondary cup (Fig.
4) into rear land, with the cup lip away from piston.
(4) Slide cup retainer over front end of piston, followed by piston spring (Fig. 4).
(5) Install piston spring, piston cup retainer, piston and cups into bore of master cylinder (Fig. 5).
Be sure the lip of cups enter bore evenly in order
PISTON RETAINING
SET SCREW AND
GASKET
\ y--
-
PISTON SPRING
/
/SECONQARY CUP
V I
\RESIDUAL PRESSURE
VALVE SPRING
TUBE SEAT RESIDUAL
PRESSURE
VALVE
Fig. rl-rundem Master Cylinder (Exploded View)
MyMopar.com
5-12
BRAKES
L
PlSTON,SPRlNG n v
WOODEN DOWEL
Fig. 5-Installing Front Piston end Spring not to damage sealing qualities of cups. (Keep well lubricated with brake fluid.)
Rear Pidon
(1) Carefully work secondary cup over rear end of rear piston with lip of cup toward piston (Fig. 4).
(2) Center spring retainer of rear piston assem- bly over shoulder of front piston. Push piston as- semblies into bore up to center piston cup. Carefully work cup into bore then push piston in up to the rear cup. Carefully work lip of rear cup into bore, then push in on piston until seated (Fig. 6).
(3) Holding piston in seated position, move piston retainer over piston and tighten screw securely.
(4) Install front piston retaining set screw and gas- ket in cylinder body and tighten securely (Fig. 1).
(5) Install residual pressure valves and springs in outlet ports and install tube seats, firmly.
BLEEDING MASTER CYLINDER
Before installing the master cylinder on vehicle, it must be bled on the bench as follows:
(1) Clamp master cylinder in a vise and attach bleeding tubes Tool C-4029 (Fig. 7).
(2) Fill both reservoirs with approved brake fluid.
(3) Using a wooden stick or dowel (power brake equipped vehicles) or depress push rod slowly and allow the pistons to return under pressure of springs.
NT PISTON REAR PISTON
I SPRING
I
Fig. 7-Bleeding Master Cylinder
Do this several times until all air bubbles are ex- pelled. (Fig. 7).
(4) Remove bleeding tubes from cylinder and in- stall cover and gasket. are removed, fluid remaining in tubes will syphon out.)
(5) Install cover retaining clamp and clamp screw.
(6) Remove from vise and install master cylinder on vehicle as follows:
INSTALLING MASTER CYLINDER
(1) Install master cylinder on vehicle, aligning push rod with cowl panel opening (manual brakes) or power brake push rod with cylinder piston.
(2) Slide over mounting studs. Install attaching nuts and tighten to 9 foot-pounds. Connect push rod to brake pedal.
(3) Connect front and rear brake tubes and tighten to 150 inch-pounds.
FROM MASTER CYLINDER
PORT STAMPED "F"
SWITCH BODY
OUTLET TO LEFT
ONT BRAKE TUBE
PISTON SEAL
WITCH SEAL
SWITC; ASSEMBLY
PISTON ASSEMBLY
FROM MASTER CYLINDER
PORT STAMPED "R"
AND GASKET
REAR PISTON
/
ASSEMBLY
Fig. 6-Installing Rear Piston Assembly
NP22A
Fig. 8-Hydraulic System Safety Switch (Sectional)
MyMopar.com
0
BRAKES
5-13
(4) Bleed brakes at wheel cylinders using regular procedure, being sure fluid level is maintained. (See
Bleeding the Brake System.)
SAFETY SWITCH
TESTING MASTER CYLINDER
Be sure that the master cylinder compensates at both ports. This can be done by applying the pedal lightly with the engine running (power brakes) and observing for a gyser of fluid squirting up in the reservoirs. This may only occur in the front chamber and so to determine if the rear compensating port is open, it will be necessary to pump up the brakes rapidly and, then, hold the pedal down. Have an ob- server watch the fluid in the rear reservoir while the pedal is raised. A disturbance in the fluid indi- cates that the compensating port is open.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM SAFETY SWITCH
The hydraulic system safety switch (Figs. 8 and 9) is used to warn the vehicle operator that one of the hydraulic systems has failed. A failure in one part of the brake system does not result in failure of the entire hydraulic brake system. As an example, failure of the rear brake system will leave the front brake system still operative.
As pressure falls in one system, the other system’s normal pressure forces the piston to the inoperative
MOUNTING
BRACKET
Fig. 9-Hydraulic System Safety Switch
(Exploded V i e w ) side contacting the switch terminal, causing a red warning light to come on in the instrument panel, thus, warning the operator of the vehicle that one of the systems has failed and should be repaired.
The safety switch is mounted on the frame in a vertical position, with the brake tubes connected.
(Fig. 8).
If a malfunction occurs within the switch, dis- connect tubes from body assembly and install a new assembly. The component parts of the switch body are not serviced. However, the terminal unit can be removed if a malfunction occurs and a new termi- nal unit installed.
If a new body is installed, bleed the brake system.
WHEEL CYLINDERS
Assembling Wheel Cylinders ....................
Disassembling Wheel Cylinders
Installing Brake Supports
.................
14 Removing Brake Supports
......................
Page
15
15
Installing Wheel Cylinders
Removing Wheel Cylinders
......................
......................
15
.....................
Page
15
13
GENERAL INFORMATION
On all new model vehicles, a piston stop (Fig. 4) is welded to the support plates to prevent the pistons from moving out far enough to lose brake fluid. The piston boots are of the press-on type and prevents moisture from entering the wheel cylinder.
To perform service operations or inspections of the wheel cylinders, it will be necessary to remove the cylinders from the support plate and disassemble on the bench.
REMOVING WHEEL CYLINDERS
Front or
Rear
With all the brake drums removed, inspect the wheel cylinder boots for evidence of a brake fluid leak.
Visually check the boots for cuts, tears, or heat cracks, and if any of these conditions exist, the wheel cylin- ders should be completely cleaned, inspected and new parts installed. (A slight amount of fluid on the boot may not be a leak, but may be preservative oil used at assembly.
(1) In case of a leak, remove brake shoes, (replace if soaked with grease or brake fluid.)
(2) Disconnect brake hose from brake tube at frame bracket (front wheels) or disconnect brake tube from wheel cylinder (rear wheels).
(3) Disconnect brake hose from wheel cylinder
(front). Remove wheel cylinder attaching bolts (front or rear), then slide wheel cylinder assembly out of support.
MyMopar.com
NR3
5-14
BRAKES
REAR-HOUSING
PRESS ONc6OOT
/
'/
PISTON
/
FRONT-HOUSING
-
5/16" BLEED SCREW
NR4
DISASSEMBLING WHEEL CYLlNDERS
Front
TO or Reur disassemble
Fig. I-Whoel Cylinders 9 Inch Brake (Front & Rear)
the
wheel cylinders, (Figs. 1 or 2) depending on cylinder being worked on, proceed as follows:
(1) Using a suitable tool, pry boots away from cylin- ders and remove. Remove push rods (if
(2) equipped).
Press in on one piston and force out piston, cup, spring cup and piston.
(3) Wash wheel cylinder, pistons and s p r h g in a suitable solvent; cle& thoroughly and dry
with
air.
Inspect cylinder bore and piston for SCOrhg Or Pit- ting.
( D O not use a rag to bore surfaces.) as Lint from the rag will adhere
Wheel cylinder bores and pistons that
are
badly scored or pitted should be replaced. Cylinder walls that have light scratches, or show signs of corrosion,
REAR-HOUSING
/
PRESS ON/-BOOT
/ / /
0
FRONT- HOUSING
-
5/16" BLEED SCREW
5/16" t)LttU S L K t W
Fig. 2-Wheel Cylinders IO and 1 I Inch Brake (Front and Rear)
PUSH ROD
MyMopar.com
0
BRAKES 5-15
W’’.
CABLE
ASSEMBLY
‘CABLE RETAINING CLIP
NF 596
Fig. 3-Removing Brake Cable from SupporP can usually be cleaned with crocus cloth, using a cir- cular motion. Black stains on the cylinder walls are caused by piston cups and will do no harm.
ASSEMBLING WHEEL CYLINDERS
Front or Rear
To assemble the wheel cylinders (Figs. 1 or 2,) pro- ceed as follows:
Before assembling the pistons and new cups in the wheel cylinders, dip them in clean brake fluid. If the boots are deteriorated, cracked or do not fit tightly on the push rods (if so equipped) or shoe tang, as well as the cylinder casting, new boots must be installed.
(1) Wash wheel cylinder with alcohol and blow dry with compressed air. Coat cylinder bore with clean brake fluid.
(2) Install expansion spring in cylinder. Install cups in each end of cylinder with open end of cups facing each other.
(3) Install pistons in each end of cylinder with recessed end of pistons facing open ends of cylinder.
(4) Install boots over ends of cylinder and press over ends until boot is seated again cylinder shoulder.
Use care so as not to damage boot.
INSTALLING WHEEL CYLINDERS
Front or Rear
(1) Slide wheel cylinder into position on support
(front or rear). Install attaching bolts and tighten from
7 to 10 foot pounds (9 inch brakes) or 17 to 20 foot pounds (10 and 11 inch brakes). tighten to 95 wheel cylinder, using a new gasket. Tighten to 25 foot pounds, before attaching brake hose to frame bracket.
Should hose be connected to wheel cylinder last, tightening of the hose into wheel cylinder will twist
Fig. 4-Wheel Cylinder Piston Stops hose, and can result in suspension or tire interference.
REMOVING BRAKE SUPPORT
(Front)
(1) Disconnect brake line from brake hose at frame bracket.
(2) With wheel and brake drum removed, remove four support attaching nuts and washers.
(3) Remove support and brake assembly from spindle.
(Rear)
(1) With wheel and brake drum removed, remove support attaching nuts and washers.
(3) Disconnect hydraulic brake line from wheel cylinder.
(4) Disengage brake cable from parking brake lever. of cable retainer and pull brake cable out of support
(Fig. 3).
(6) Remove brake support from rear axle housing.
INSTALLING BRAKE SUPPORT
(Front)
(1) Install brake shoes on support. taching bolts, nuts and washers. Tighten attaching nuts to 55 foot-pounds.
(3) Connect brake hose to wheel cylinder and tighten to 25 foot-pounds, before connecting brake hose to frame bracket. Should hose be connected to wheel cylinder last, tightening of hose into wheel cyl- inder will twist hose, which can result in suspension or tire interference problems.
(4) Install brake drum and wheel bearings. Adjust bearings. Bleed and adjust brakes.
(Rear)
(1) Install brake shoes on support.
(3) Insert rear axle shaft and retainer into housing
MyMopar.com
516
BRAKES
and install axle retainer nuts and washers. Tighten retainer nuts to 35 foot-pounds.
(4) Attach brake line to wheel cylinder and tighten to 95 inch-pounds.
0
(5) Insert parking brake cable into support plate and attach cable to parking brake lever.
(6) Install brake drum and wheel. Bleed and adjust brakes.
PARKING BRAKES
INDEX
Adjusting Parking Brake
General Information
........................
...........................
Installing Front Parking Brake Cable
Installing Rear Parking Brake Cable
Page
16
16
Removing Front Parking Brake Cable
Removing Rear Parking Brake Cable
............
18 Service Diagnosis
............ 17
...........
.............................
18
16
16
GENERAL INFORMATION
The rear wheel service brakes also act as parking brakes. The brake shoes are mechanically operated by a lever and s t r u t connected to a flexible steel cable.
The wheel brake cables are joined together by a
for-
ward brake cable and equalizer extending to the park- ing brake pedal or release handle (Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4).
Condition
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause Correction
Improper cable or brake shoe adjust- ment.
Broken brake shoe return spring.
Broken brake shoe retainer spring.
Grease or brake fluid soaked lining.
Sticking or frozen brake cable.
Broken rear spring.
Bent or rusted cable equalizer.
(a) Properly adjust the service brakes then adjust the parking brake cable.
(b) Replace any broken return spring.
(c) Replace the broken retainer spring.
(d) Replace the grease seal or recondi- tion the wheel cylinders and replace both brake shoes.
(e) Replace cable.
(f) Replace the broken rear spring.
(g) Straighten, or replace and lubricate the equalizer.
BRAKE WILL NOT HOLD (a)
(b)
(C)
(d)
Broken or rusted brake cable. (a) Replace cable.
Improperly adjusted brake or cable. (b) Adjust brakes and cable as necessary.
Soaked brake lining.
Ratchet or pedal mechanism worn.
(c) Replace the brake lining.
(d) Replace pedal assembly.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
ADJUSTING PARKING BRAKE
The service brakes must be properly adjusted be- fore adjusting the parking brake.
(1) Release parking brake lever and loosen cable adjusting nut to insure cable is slack, (Figs. 1 or 2).
Before loosening cable adjusting nut, clean threads with wire brush and lubricate with grease.
(2) Tighten cable adjusting nut until a slight drag i s felt while rotating wheel, loosen cable adjusting nut until both rear wheels can be rotated freely, then back off cable adjusting nut two full turns.
(3) Apply parking brake several times, then release and test to see that rear wheels rotate freely without dwm-G!.
REMOVING REAR PARKING BRAKE CABLE
The independent rear brake cables are attached to
RIGHT REAR CABLE ASSEMBLY
CABLE ADJUSTIN
CROSSMEMBER
LEFT REAR
NN558A
MyMopar.com
Q
BRAKES 5-17
FRONT CABLE
NF601A
Fig. 2-Parking Brake Cable Routing (Dart) an’equalizer (Fig. 1). The front cable is adjusted at the equalizer.
Should it become necessary to remove the parking brake cable (rear) for installation of a new cable, see
(Fig. 3) Service Brakes.
(1) With vehicle jacked up or on a suitable hoist, remove rear wheels.
(2) Disconnect brake cable from equalizer.
(3) Remove retaining clip from brake cable brack-
NUT
I
I
$ T CABLE ASSEMBLY
NN559
Fig. 3-Parking Brake Pedal (Coronet) et.
(4)
(5)
Remove brake drum from rear axle.
Remove brake shoe return springs.
(7) Remove brake shoe strut and spring from brake support and disconnect brake cable from operating arm.
(8) Compress retainers on end of brake cable hous- ing and remove cable from support. (Fig. 3) Service
Brakes.
INSTALLING REAR PARKING BRAKE CABLE
When installing a new brake cable, lubricate the
INSTRUMENT PAN
SCREW AND WASHER
Fig. 4-Parking Brake Lever (Dart)
SCREW AND WASHER
NH3lOA
MyMopar.com
5-18
BRAKES
cable with short fibre grease at the contact points.
(1) Insert brake cable and housing into brake sup- port plate making certain that housing retainers lock the housing firmly into place.
(2) Holding brake shoes in place
on
support plate, engage brake cable into brake shoe operating lever.
Install parking brake strut and spring.
(3) Install brake shoe retaining springs, and brake shoe return springs.
(4) Install brake drum and wheel. bracket and install retaining clip.
(6) Insert brake cable into equalizer. Note different size slot for corresponding cable end fitting.
(7) Adjust service brakes and parking brake cable.
REMOVING FRONT PARKING BRAKE CABLE
(1) Disengage front parking brake cable from equalizer bar. Refer to (Figs. 1 or 2).
(2) Disengage cable from guide clip.
(3) Using a screw driver force cable housing and attaching clip out of body crossmember.
(4) Fold back left front edge of floor mat and re-
0 move rubber cable cover from floor pan.
(5) Depress parking brake pedal and work brake cable up and out of brake pedal linkage, (Figs. 3 or 4).
(6) Using a screw driver force upper end of cable housing and clip down out of pedal assembly bracket.
(7) Remove cable to floor pan clip and work cable and housing assembly up through floor pan.
INSTALLING FRONT PARKING BRAKE CABLE
(1) Insert rear end of brake cable and housing down through cable routing hole in floor pan.
(2) Engage upper end of cable and housing assem- bly up through pedal assembly bracket and finnly attach housing and clip into bracket.
(3) Depress parking brake pedal and insert end of cable into parking brake pedal clevis.
(4) Insert cable through body crossmember and firmly press into housing and attaching clip.
(5) Attach front cable to equalizer bar.
(6) Adjust service brakes and parking brake cable.
(7) Apply brakes several times and test for free wheel rotation when parking brake is in “off’ posi- tion.
MIDLAND-ROSS POWER BRAKE
(Tandem Diaphragm)
INDEX
Installing Power Brake
Removing Power Brake
Page
.........................
19
.........................
18
GENERAL IN FORMAT10
N
The tandem diaphragm power brake (Fig. 1) is a vacuum unit which utilizes engine intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure to provide power assisted application of the vehicle brakes. The power unit provides lighter pedal pressure.
This lighter pressure is obtained in combination with a reduced pedal travel, which makes it possible to bring the pedal down to the approximate height of the accelerator pedal when at closed throttle condi- tion. Thus, the driver, after closing the throttle, can shift his toe from one pedal to the other without
Service Diagnosis
Page
.............................
19 lifting his heel from the floor.
The power brake, which is a self contained unit, eliminates all external rods and levers, and mounts on the engine side of the cowl panel.
The power brake is externally connected to brake system. The unit is connected by a pedal the
link
to the brake pedal, by a vacuum line to the intake manifold (through a vacuum check valve) and hy- draulic tubes from the master cylinder to the wheel units.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
REMOVING POWER BRAKE
check valve.
(3) Remove nut and bolt that attach power brake
(1) Remove nuts attaching master cylinder to brake unit. Remove master cylinder from unit.
(2) pedal link to pedal. (Under instrument panel.)
(4) Remove nuts and washers that attach power
Disconnect vacuum hose from power brake brake unit to dash panel.
MyMopar.com
0
BRAKES 5-19
FENDER SIDE SHIELD
I
TANDEM MASTER CYLINDER
WINDSHIELD WASHER RESERVOIR HOLE
SCREW
NP279
Fig. 1-Power Brake Assembly (Drum Brakes)
(5) Remove power brake from vehicle.
iNSTALLING POWER BRAKE
(1) Install new dash panel to power brake gasket.
(2) Position power brake unit on dash panel, then install attaching nuts and washers and tighten to 150 inch-pounds.
(3) Using lubriplate, coat the bearing surface of bolt that connects power brake pedal link with brake pedal linkage. Install bolt and nut. Tighten to 30 foot pounds.
(4) Connect vacuum hose to unit.
(5) Install master cylinder to front cover mount- ing studs and tighten nuts to 100 inch-pounds.
Be sure power brake output push rod is set to cor- rect length. With power brake attached to dash panel and vacuum supplied to unit, the master cylinder should compensate (force jet of fluid up through front chamber compensation port.)
(6) Check stop light operation.
MIDLAND
ROSS POWER
BRAKE
(Single Diaphragm)
General Information ...........................
Installing Power Brake
Page
19 Removing Power Brake
......................... 20 Service Diagnosis
Page
........................
20
.............................
19
GENERAL INFORMATION
The Midland Ross power brake, (Fig. 1) is located on the engine side of the dash panel. The front cover of the Power Brake Unit supports the master cylinder. The power brake derives its power from the intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric pres- sure. It does not require a vacuum reservoir.
Condition
DRAGGING BRAKES
(ALL WHEELS)
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause Correction
(a) Brake shoes improperly adjusted. (a) Adjust brakes.
(b) Brake pedal linkage binding.
(c) Excessive hydraulic seal friction.
(d) Compensator port plugged.
(b) Free up linkage.
(c) Lubricate seal.
(d) Clean out master cylinder.
(e) Improper booster p u s h rod length ad- (e) Adjust push rod. iustment.
MyMopar.com
5-20
BRAKES
Condition
C
GRABBING BRAKES
PEDAL GOES TO FLOOR
(OR ALMOST TO FLOOR)
HARD PEDAL (POWER
UNIT TROUBLE)
Possible Cause Correction
Fluid inder. cannot return to master cyl- (f) Inspect pedal return and push rod ad- justment.
Parking brake not returning. (g) Free up as required.
Grease or brake fluid on linings. (a) Inspect for a leak and replace lining a s required.
Self-adjusters not operating.
Air in hydraulic system.
Hydraulic leak. in master cylinder.
(a) Inspect self-adjuster operations.
(b)
(c)
Bleed brakes.
Locate and correct leak.
Fluid low (d) Add brake fluid.
Shoe hanging up on rough platform. (e) Smooth and lubricate platforms.
Faulty vacuum check valve.
Diaphragm assembly out of place housing.
Vacuum leak housing.
(a) Replace check
Collapsed or leaking vacuum hose. (b) Replace hose.
Plugged vacuum fittings.
Leaking vacuum chamber. in in forward vacuum
(e) Replace unit.
(f) Replace unit. valve.
(c) Clean out fittings.
(d) Replace unit.
REMOVING POWER BRAKE
SERVICE PROCEDURES
washers.
(5) Remove power brake and linkage from vehicle.
(1) Remove nuts attaching master cylinder to brake unit. Remove master cylinder. (Fig. 1).
(2) Disconnect vacuum hose from power brake.
(3) From under instrument panel, remove nut and attaching bolt from power brake input push rod and brake pedal blade. Remove lower pivot retaining bolt.
(4) Remove four power brake attaching nuts and
TANDEM MASTER CYLINDER (DRUM BRAKES)
I
POWER BRAKE ASSEMBLY
INSTALLING POWER BRAKE
(1) Install power brake assembly into dash and tighten attaching nuts 150 inch-pounds.
(2) Install master cylinder on power brake. Tighten mounting nuts to 100 inch-pounds. Be sure power brake output push rod is set to correct length. (Fig. 2).
NUT AND WASHER ASSEMBLY
\
Fig. 1-Power Bmko and Master Cylinder (Drum Brakes)
NP280
MyMopar.com
0
R
PUSH ROD
(100 IN.- LBS.)
,
NP94A
Fig. P-Push Rod Measurement
BRAKES
15-21
With power brake attached to dash panel and vacuum supplied to unit, the master cylinder should compen- sate (force jet of fluid up through front chamber com- pensation port).
(3) Connect vacuum hose.
(4) Using lubriplate, coat the bearing surface of bolt that connects power brake pedal link with brake pedal linkage. Install bolt and nut. Tighten to 30 foot pounds.
(5) Check stop light operation.
POWER BRAKE-BENDIX
(Single Diaphragm)
GENERAL
INFORMATION
is
The single diaphragm type power brake (Fig. 1) engine intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric a self contained vacuum hydraulic power braking pressure for its power. This type of units does not unit. It is of the vacuum suspended type which utilizes require a vacuum reservoir.
CHECK VALVE DIAPHRAGM
MASTER
MOUNT1
SPRING
Fig. 1 -Power Brake Assembly (Bendix) Drum Brukes
NR161
MyMopar.com
5-22
BRAKES
The Bendix Power Brake Unit can be identified by the twist lock method of attaching the housing and cover together.
The basic elements of the vacuum unit
are
as fol- lows:
A mechanically actuated control valve integral with the vacuum power diaphragms, controls the de- gree of power brake application or release in accord- ance with the foot pressure applied to the valve operating rod through the brake pedal linkage.
The control valve is of a single poppet type valve
0 with the atmospheric port and a vacuum port. The vacuum port seat is a part of the valve body attached to the diaphragm assembly. The atmospheric port is a part of the valve plunger which moves within the valve housing and vacuum power diaphragm as- sembly.
A hydraulic master cylinder which contains all of the elements of the standard brake master cylinder except for the special hydraulic push rod which is a part of the power brake.
REMOVING POWER BRAKE
SERVICE PROCEDURES
(1) Remove nuts attaching master cylinder to brake unit. Remove master cylinder from unit.
(2) Disconnect vacuum l i e from check valve.
(3) From under instrument panel, remove nut and bolt from power brake link and brake pedal. (On link- age type power brake, remove lower pivot bolt).
(4) From under instrument panel remove four brake unit attaching nuts and washers.
( 5 ) Withdraw brake unit assembly from vehicle.
INSTALLING POWER BRAKE
(1) Install power brake and linkage assembly (if so equipped) into dash panel. Install attaching nuts and washers. Tighten nuts to 150 inch-pounds.
(2) Using lubriplate, coat the bearing surface of bolt that connects power brake pedal link with brake pedal. Install bolt and nut. Tighten to 30 foot-pounds.
Install lower pivot bolt (if so equipped).
(3) Attach vacuum hose to check valve.
(4) Install master cylinder on power brake. Tighten mounting nuts to 100 inch pounds. Be sure power brake output push rod is set to correct length. With power brake attached to dash panel and vacuum sup- plied to unit, the master cylinder should compensate
(force jet of fluid up through front chamber compen- sation port)
(5) Inspect adjustment of stop light switch.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to disassemble brake booster as this unit will be serviced by Manufacturer's
Service Station.
POWER
BRAKE-BENDIX
(Tandem Diaphragm)
GENERAL INFORMATION
2),
The tandem diaphragm type power brake (Fig. 1 or is a self contained vacuum hydraulic power braking unit. It is of the vacuum suspended type which utilizes engine intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric pres- sure for its power. This type of unit does not re- quire a vacuum reservoir.
The Bendix Power Brake Unit can be identified by the crimped edge method of attaching the housing and cover together.
The basic elements lows: of the vacuum unit are as fol-
(a) The vacuum power chamber consists of a front and rear shell, a center plate, front and rear dia- phragm, hydraulic push-rod and a vacuum diaphragm return spring.
(b) A mechanically actuated control valve integral with the vacuum power diaphragms, controls the de- gree of power brake application or release in accord- ance with the foot pressure applied to the valve operating rod through the brake pedal linkage.
The control valve is of a single poppet type valve with the atmospheric port and a vacuum port. The vacuum port seat is a part of the valve body attached to the diaphragm assembly. The atmospheric port is a part of the valve plunger which moves within the valve housing and vacuum power diaphragm as- sembly.
(c) A hydraulic master cylinder which contains all of the elements of the standard brake master cylinder except for the special hydraulic push rod which is a part of the power brake.
MyMopar.com
0
CHECK VALVE
/
BRAKES 523
POWER BRAKES
Fig. 1-Power Brake Assembly (Bendix) Disc Brakes
NUT AND WASHER
NR162
TANDEM MASTER CYLINDER
(DRUM BRAKE)
Fig. 2 - P o w e r Brake Assembly (Bendix) Drum and Disc Brakes (424 Hem; Only)
NP293
MyMopar.com
5-24
BRAKES
0
REMOVING POWER BRAKE
unit.
(2) Disconnect vacuum line from check valve.
(3) From under instrument panel, remove push rod nut and bolt from power brake and brake pedal. (On linkage type power brake, remove lower pivot bolt.)
(4) From under instrument panel remove four brake unit attaching nuts and washers.
( 5 ) Withdraw brake unit assembly from brake sup- port bracket.
INSTALLING POWER BRAKE
SERVICE PROCEDURES
(1) (if so equipped) into dash panel. Install attaching nuts and washers. Tighten nuts to 150 inch-pounds.
(2) Using lubriplate, coat the bearing surface of bolt that connects power brake pedal link with brake pedal linkage. Install bolt and nut. Tighten to 30 pounds. (Install lower pivot bolt, if so equipped). foot
(3) Attach vacuum hose to check valve.
(4) Install master cylinder on power brake. Tighten mounting nuts to 100 inch-pounds. Be sure power brake output push rod is set to correct length. With power brake attached to dash panel and vacuum sup- plied to unit, the master cylinder should compensate
(force jet of fluid up through front chamber compen- sation port).
(5) Inspect adjustment of stop light switch.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to disassemble brake booster as this unit will be wrvicd by Manufacturer‘s
Service Station.
KELSEY-HAYES DISC BRAKES
Assembling Ca I i per
............................
Assembling Master Cylinder
Bleeding Disc Brake
Brake Shoe Installation
Brake Shoe Removal
Disassembling Ca I iper
....................
...........................
.......................
29
..........................
Cleaning and Inspection (Master Cylinder)
.........................
Disassembling Master Cylinder
Disc Brake Service Precautions
Page
29
......
31
.................
................
32
46
34
30
45
27
GENERAL INFORMATION
The disc brake (Fig. 1) is a fixed caliper, opposed piston, non-energized, ventilated disc type, actuated by the hydraulic system. There is no lateral move- ment of either the disc or the caliper. The caliper as- sembly consists of two caliper housings, bolted to- gether. Each half contains two cylinder bores of 1-5/8 inch diameter. Each cylinder contains a seal, piston and externally attached molded rubber dust boot to seal the cylinder more from contamination. The pis- tons are sealed by “rectangular section” rubber piston seals, positioned in grooves machined in the cylinder bores, which provide hydraulic sealing between the pistons (Fig. 2), and the cylinder bores.
The cylinders are connected hydraulically by means of internal passages in the caliper housings and by an external transfer tube between the two halves of the caliper assembly. A bleeder screw and a fluid inlet fitting are provided on each caliper assem- bly (Fig. 1).
The shoe and lining assemblies are located between parallel machined abutments within the caliper, (Fig.
General Information
Installing Caliper
Removing Braking
Removing Caliper
Removing Master Cylinder
Routine Maintenance
Service Diagnosis
Disc
..........................
Installing Brake Disc and Hub
Page
..................
..............................
Installing Master Cylinder and
......................
Hub
................
.............................
......................
..........................
.............................
24
33
32
47
33
30
45
25
27 the outer ends of the shoe assemblies. The shoes slide axially in the abutments and ride on machined ledges (bridges) when hydraulic pressure is applied to the pistons. The lining assembly consists of organic friction material, bonded to a metal plate Called the shoe, and is re- placed as a unit. Brake torque is absorbed by the reaction of the shoe end against the caliper abutments.
Two spring clips bolted in the top opening of the caliper act as shoe retaining springs. The caliper is mounted directly to the front wheel spindle and at the rear of the wheel’s vertical centerline (Fig. 4).
The cast iron braking disc is of the ventilated type and incorporates forty cooling fins. This increases the cooling area and permits circulation of air through the disc, resulting in more rapid cooling of the brake.
The disc is attached to the wheel hub by five flathead serrated bolts. The outside diameter of the disc is
11.04 inches and the inside is 6.91 inches. A splash shield bolted to the spindle is used to prevent road contaminates from contacting the inboard side of the
MyMopar.com
CI
BRAKES
5-25 disc and lining surfaces (Fig. 4). The wheel, itself, provides protection for the outboard surface of the disc.
Braking action begins immediately upon applica- tion of the brake pedal as hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder to the system applies pressure to the co-axially aligned caliper pistons forcing the linings against both sides of the braking disc, thus applying the brakes. During brake application, the piston seals are deflected by the hydraulic pressure (Fig. 5). When the pressure is released, the seals relax or retract, pulling the pistons back from the shoe and lining as- semblies approximately .005”. (This reaction is called
“seal retraction” and provides the required running clearance as the linings relieve their force on the disc.) Inherent disc runout also contributes to main- taining running clearance. Automatic adjustment is achieved by the pistons sliding outward from the cyl- inder bore as the lining wears. The piston assumes a new position relative to the seal and maintains the wheel cylinders which provides balanced braking ac- tion between the front and rear brakes under a wide range of braking conditions. The valve regulates the hydraulic pressure applied to the rear wheel cyl- inders, thus limiting rear braking action when high pressures are required at the front brakes. In this manner, premature rear wheel skid is prevented.
An additional feature of this disc brake system is a
“tell-tale” tab sounding device which indicates when replacement of the shoe and lining assemblies are required (Fig. 3). The tabs located on the shoes create an audible metallic scraping noise from the brake by metal to metal contact on the braking disc. This warns the driver that the lining has worn to a mini- mum thickness and the vehicle should be returned to the dealer for relining of the brakes. This device is not detrimental to the function of the braking disc.
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
correct adjustment location at all times (Fig. 5).
There is no residual pressure in the disc brake hydraulic system since the residual pressure valve normally used in drum brake system is located only in the front outlet port of the master cylinder. (See
Master Cylinder Section of this Group).
Cheek Brake
Lines
and
Linings
Raise all four wheels. Remove one of the front wheel and tire assemblies and inspect the braking disc, caliper and linings. (The wheel bearings should be inspected at this time and repacked if necessary.)
The caliper must be removed to inspect and pack the
The hydraulic system contains a proportioning inner wheel bearing. valve between the master cylinder and the rear et oil or grease on the disc or the linings. If
-.--
BLEED !
,NUT LOCK
EXTERNAL TRANSFER-
TUBE
CALIPER
ASSEMBLY
-
STEERING ARM
DISC HUB/
P -SPECIAL WHEEL
1 4 x 4 5 0 J
NN423B
Fig. I-Disc Brake Assembly (Sectional)
MyMopar.com
5-26 BRAKES
PISTON PISTON DUST
BOOT n
BLEED
0
Fig. 2-Disc Brake Caliper Assembly (Sectional) the linings are worn to within .030 inch of the surface of the shoe, replace both sets of shoe and lining as- semblies (inboard and outboard) on the front wheels.
It is recommended that both front wheel sets be re- placed whenever a respective shoe and lining is worn or damaged.
If the caliper is cracked or fluid leakage through the casting is evident, it must be replaced as a unit.
To check the amount of lining wear, remove the wheel and tire assembly, the spring clips and the shoe and lining assemblies (see “Brake Shoe Removal” paragraph). Three (3) thickness measurements with a micrometer should be taken across the middle sec- tion of the shoe and lining; one reading at each side and one reading in the center. When an assembly has worn to a thickness of .180
If shoes do not require replacement, reinstall making sure to replace to their original inner and outer Shoe
If
and
Lining
Wear a visual inspection does not adequately deter- mine the condition of the lining, a physical check will be necessary.
Fig. 3-DIsc Brake Piston, Shoe and Lining Assembly Fig. 4-Dise Brake Caliper Mounting
MyMopar.com
0
BRAKES
5-27
CYLINDER BORE
/
PISTON
DUST BOOT
SEAL
CALIPER
HOUSING plcrzh-
NN427B brakes are applied.
Before checking the runout, the wheel bearing end play should be eliminated by tightening the adjusting nut. The readjustment i s very important and will be required at the completion of the test to prevent bear- ing failure. After tightening the adjusting nut, be sure that the braking disc can still be rotated.
Dial indicator C-3339 should be clamped to the steering knuckle so that the stylus contacts the brak- ing disc at a point approximately one (1) inch from the outer edge, (Fig. 15). Rotate the disc and check the indicator reading. The maximum total indicator reading on the gauge should not exceed .0025 inch. If the reading exceeds this specification, the disc should be replaced. Do not attempt to refinish a disc that indicates runout in excess of the specification.
Fig. 5-Piston Seal Function for Automatic
Adjustmen? positions (see “Brake Shoe Installation” paragraph).
When shoe and lining replacement is required, a
“scraping” noise from the front brakes will be heard.
This noise is metal-to-metal contact between the tabs on the shoe assemblies and the braking disc. When the noise becomes audible to the driver, the lining has worn to the metal tabs and the brakes must be re- lined. The contact between the metal tab and disc will not affect the functioning of the disc brake system, but continued use until lining is completely worn away will cause disc damage.
Running Clearance
To check the shoe and lining assembly to the brak- ing disc clearance, remove the wheel and tire assem- bly. Insert a feeler gauge between the lining and the braking disc. Ordinarily, the clearance should be ,003 to .006 if the vehicle was stopped by a brake application just prior to checking the clearance, it is considered normal for the brakes to drag slightly.
Brake Roughness
The most common cause of brake chatter on disc brakes is a variation in thickness of disc. If rough- ness or vibration is encountered during highway operation or if pedal pumping is experienced at low speeds, the disc may have excessive thickness varia- tion. To check for this condition, measure the disc at
12 (twelve) points with a micrometer at a radius approximately one inch (1”) from edge of disc. If thickness measurements vary by more than .0005 inch the disc should be replaced with a new one.
Braking Disc Runout
Excessive lateral runout of the braking disc will cause a “knocking back” of the pistons, which will create increased pedal travel and vibration when the
DISC BRAKE SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
(1) Grease or any other foreign material must be kept off the caliper assembly, surfaces of the braking disc and external surfaces of the hub, during service procedures. Handling the braking disc and caliper should be done in a way to avoid deformation of the braking disc and nicking or scratching the brake linings.
(2) If inspection reveals the square sectioned rubber piston seals are worn or damaged, they should be replaced immediately.
(3) During removal and installation of a wheel and tire assembly, exercise care so as not to interfere with or damage the bleeder screw or the transfer tube.
(4) The front wheel bearing end play is important and must be within specifications. servicing any of front end components to avoid bending or damaging disc splash shield on full right or left wheel turns.
(6) Before vehicle is moved after any brake serv- ice work, be sure and obtain a firm brake pedal.
(7) The assembly bolts of two caliper housings should not be disturbed, unless servicing of caliper assembly is required.
(8) Riding brake pedal (common left foot applica- tion) should be avoided during vehicle operation.
(9) The wheel, tire, hub and disc assembly cannot be removed as an assembly. The caliper assembly must be removed before removal of hub and disc as- sembly.
Condition
EXCESSIVE PEDAL
TRAVEL
DISC BRAKE SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause Correction
(a) Rear brake adjustment required.
(b) Air tem or caliper.
(a) Check and adjust rear brakes. leak, or insufficient fluid in sys- (b) Check system for leaks.
MyMopar.com
5-28 BRAKES
0
Condition Possible Cause Correction
(c) Warped or excessively tapered shoe (c) Install new shoe and linings. and lining assembly.
(d) Excessive disc runout.
(e) Loose wheel bearing adjustment.
(f) Improper brake fluid (boil).
(d) Check disc for runout with dial cator. Install new disc.
(e) Readjust wheel bearings to specified torque.
(f) Drain and install correct fluid. indi-
(g) Damaged caliper piston seal. (g) Install new piston seal.
BRAKE ROUGHNESS OR (a) Excessive out-of-parallelism of brak- (a) Check disc for runout with dial indi-
CHATTER (Pedal
Pulsating) ing disc.
(b) Rear brake drums out-of-round. cator. Install new disc.
(b) Loosen and retorque wheel nuts specifications. to
(c) Excessive lateral runout of braking (c) Check disc for lateral runout with disc. dial indicator. Install new disc.
(d) Excessive front bearing clearance. (d) Readjust wheel bearings to specified torque.
(e) Rear brake drums distorted bv im- (e) Check drums for out-of-round and proper tightening of nuts. grind if necessary. re-
EXCESSIVE PEDAL
EFFORT
(a) Power brake malfunction.
(b) Frozen or seized pistons.
(c) Shoe and lining worn below
(Lining on ly-.3(Y’.)
.155”.
(d) Brake fluid, oil or grease on linings.
(e) Incorrect lining.
(a) Check and correct power unit.
(b) Disassemble caliper and free up pis- tons. Clean parts.
(c) Install new shoe and linings.
(d) Install new shoe linings as required.
(e) Remove lining and install correct lin-
PULL
NOISE
(a) Loose calipers.
(b) Frozen or seized pistons.
(c) Rear brake pistons sticking.
(d) Front end out of alignment.
(e) Broken rear spring.
(f) Out-of-round rear drums.
(g) Incorrect tire pressure.
(h) Brake fluid, oil or grease on linings.
(i) Restricted hose or line.
(j) Rear brakes out of adjustment.
(k) Unmatched linings.
(I) Distorted brake shoes.
(a) Tighten caliper mounting bolts from
45 to 60
(b) Disassemble caliper and free up pis- tons.
(c) Free up rear brake pistons.
(d) Check and align front end.
(e) Install new rear spring.
(f) Check and regrind drums if neces- sary.
(g) Inflate tires to recommended pres- sures.
(h) Install new shoe and linings.
(i) Check hoses and lines and correct as necessary.
(j) Adjust rear brakes.
(k) Install correct lining.
(I) Install new brake shoes.
Groan-Brake noise emanating when slowly releasing brakes (creep-groan)
(a) Not detrimental to function of disc brakes-no corrective action re- qu ired.
(Indicate to operator this noise may be eliminated by slightly increasing or decreasing brake pedal efforts).
Raffle-Brake noise or rattle emanating a t low speeds on rough roads, (front wheels only).
Scraping-
(a) Excessive clearance between shoe (a) Install new shoe and lining assem- and caliper.
(a) Loose wheel bearings.
(b) Braking disc rubbing housing. blies.
(a) Readjust wheel bearings to correct specifications.
(b) Check for rust or mud buildup on cali- per mounting and bridge bolt tight- ness.
(c) Mounting bolts too long. (c) Install mounting bolts of correct length.
MyMopar.com
0
BRAKES 5-29
Condition Possible Couse Correction
FRONT BRAKES HEAT UP (a)
DURING DRIVING AND
FAIL TO RELEASE (b)
Residual pressure valve cylinder.
Frozen or seized piston.
(C)
(d)
(e)
Sticking pedal linkage.
Power brake malfunction. in master (a) Remove valve from cylinder.
Operator riding brake pedal.
(b)
(C)
(d)
(e)
Disassemble caliper, hone cylinder bore, clean seal groove and install new pistons, seals and boots.
Instruct owner how to drive with disc brakes.
Free up sticking pedal linkage.
Check and correct power unit.
LEAKY WHEEL CYLINDER (a)
(b)
(C)
Corroded bore. (a
1
Damaged or worn caliper piston seal. (b)
Scores or corrosion on surface ton. of pis- (c)
Hone bore and replace boots.
Disassemble caliper and install new seal.
Disassemble caliper and hone cyl- inder bore. If neccessary, install new pistons.
GRABBING OR UNEVEN (a)
BRAKING ACTION (b)
Causes listed under “Pull.”
Power brake malfunction.
BRAKE PEDAL CAN BE
DEPRESS ED WITHOUT
BRAKING EFFECT
(a)
(b)
(C)
(a
1
(b)
Corrections listed under “Pull.”
Check and correct power unit.
Air in hydraulic system or improper (a) Bleed system. bleeding procedure.
Leak in system or caliper. (b)
Pistons pushed back in cylinder bores (c) during servicing of caliper (shoe and lining not properly positioned).
Check for leak and repair as required.
Reposition brake shoe and lining as- semblies. Depress pedal a second time and if condition persists, check following causes:
Recondition master cylinder. Leak past piston cups in master cyl- (d) inder.
Damaged piston seal in one or more (e) of cylinders.
Leak in rear brake cylinder.
Rear brakes out of adjustment.
Bleeder screw open.
(fl
(g)
(h)
Disassemble caliper and replace pis- ton seals as required.
Hone cylinder bore. Install new pis- ton cylinder cups.
Adjust rear brakes.
Close bleeder screw and bleed en- tire system.
BRAKE SHOE REMOVAL
SERVICE PROCEDURES
install a new piston seal and piston dust boot. (Refer to “Disassembling the Caliper” paragraph.)
To
remove the disc brake shoe and lining assembly,
(Fig. l), proceed as follows:
(1) Raise vehicle on a hoist or jackstands.
(2) Remove wheel covers, and wheel and tire as- sembly.
(3) Remove shoe retainer spring assemblies.
(4) Using two pair of pliers, grasp tabs on outer ends of shoes, remove shoe and lining by pulling out- ward (Fig. 6). Due to a ridge of r u s t that may build up on rotor surface outside of lining contact area, it may be necessary to force piston back slightly into bores.
Pistons can be forced back into bores by forcing shoe back with a water pump pliers placed on corner of the shoe and caliper housing (Fig. 6).
Check the caliper for seal leaks (evident by fluid moisture around the cavity) and for any damage to the piston dust boot. Wipe the cavity clean (between the inner and outer caliper housings) with a shop towel. Check the piston dust boot for proper seating in the piston bore and the caliper housing. If exces- sive fluid moisture i s evident, it w i l l be necessary to
BRAKE SHOE INSTALLATION
(1) Push all pistons back into their bores until
Fig. &Removing Brake Shoe and Lining
MyMopar.com
5-30 BRAKES
0 bottomed to allow for installation of new thick shoes.
This can be done by placing a flat sided metal bar or tool against piston and exerting a steady force until bottomed.
This
w i l l cause fluid to rise in the reservoir so be sure and remove a quantity of fluid from the reservoir before hand.
(2) Slide new shoe and lining into caliper with ears of shoe resting on bridges of caliper (Fig. 7). Be sure shoe is fully seated and lining is facing disc.)
(3) Slide remaining shoe and lining into caliper, using same procedure as described above.
(4) Place shoe retainer spring assemblies in position on caliper.
(5) Pump brake pedal several times until a firm pedal has been obtained and shoe and lining have been properly seated.
(6) Install wheel and tire. Tighten wheel stud nuts to 55 foot-pounds. Install wheel cover.
(7) Check and refill master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid as required.
CAUTION: Road test the vehicle and make several stops to wear off any foreign material on the brakes and to seat the linings. The vehicle may pull to one side or the other if this is not done.
REMOVING CALIPER
Should it become necessary to remove the caliper for installation of a new piston seal or boot, (Fig. 4), proceed as follows:
(1) Raise car on hoist or jackstands.
(2) Remove wheel cover and wheel and tire as- sembly.
(3) Disconnect front brake flexible hose from brake tube at frame mounting bracket. (Plug brake tube to prevent loss of fluid.)
(4) Remove bolts that attach caliper assembly to steering knuckle. Should it become necessary to in- stall a new flexible brake hose on a disc brake equipped vehicle, scribe a mark on hose bracket on side where hose enters, and position of hose retaining clip underneath (Fig. 4). Be sure at reassembly, that open end of retaining clip is facing out and away from caliper.
(5) Slowly slide caliper assembly up and away from brake disc (Fig. 8) and remove to bench for disas- sembly.
DISASSEMBLING CALIPER
To disassemble the caliper for the installation of new parts (Fig. 9), proceed as follows:
(1) Remove shoe retainer spring assemblies. move jumper tube (armored) at caliper.
Re-
(2) Mount caliper assembly in a vise equipped with protector jaws. (Use calipei mounting lugs.) Remove transfer tube.
(3) Remove shoe and lining assemblies.
(4) Remove bridge bolts that hold two halves of caliper together. (Make sure at reassembly that thew two bolts are used and tightened to correct torque.)
Separate assemblies.
(5) Peel dust boot out and away from caliper hous- ing retainer and out of piston groove (Fig. 10). Re- move remaining dust boots in same manner.
(6) Using Tool C-3999, remove each of pistons (Fig.
11). Care must be used so as not to scratch, burr or otherwise damage piston on outside diameter. To do so effects sealing qualities of piston. Draw piston straight out of its bore. If a piston becomes cocked, removal is more difficult and piston or bore may be damaged.
(7) Using a small pointed wooden or plastic tool, remove piston seals from groove in cylinder bore (Fig.
12). Discard old seals. (Use care so as not to scratch bore or the seal groove.)
Fig. 7-Installing Brake Shoes and Lining
NN431A
BRAKING
-I
DISC
Fig. 8-Removing or Installing Disc Brake Caliper
MyMopar.com
0
BRAKE SHOE AND LINING ASSEMBLY
OUTER CALIPER HOUSING
PISTON
DUST BOOT\
BRAKES 5-31
SHOE RETAINER CLIPS
J B O L T
BLEEDER SCREW
-
UUSI B U U I
INNER CALIPER HOUSING
TRANSFER TUBE
CAI
NN64B
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Fig. 9-Caliper Assembly (Exploded View)
Clean all parts in brake fluid and wipe dry, using clean, lint free, shop towels. Using an air hose, blow out the drilled passages and bores. Check the dust boots for punctures or tears. If punctures or tears are evident, new boots should be installed at reassembly.
Inspect the piston bores in both housings for scoring or pitting. Install a new piston if it is pitted, scored or the chrome plating is worn off. Bores that show light scratches or corrosion, can usually be cleaned with crocus cloth. However, bores that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, using Tool C-3993, providing the diameter of the bore is not increased more than .002 inch. If the bore does not clean up within this specification, a new caliper housing should be installed. (Black stains on the bore walls are caused
*1);8 CALIPER
ASSY by the piston seals and will do no harm.)
When using hone C-3993 (Fig. 13) be sure and in- stall the hone baffle before honing bore. The baffle is used to protect the hone stones from damage. After honing the bore carefully, clean the seal groove with a stiff non-metallic rotary brush.
Use extreme care in cleaning the caliper after hon- ing. Remove all dust and grit by flushing the caliper with brake fluid; wipe dry with a clean lintless cloth and then clean a second time in the same manner.
Fig. 10-Removing Dust Boot from Piston and Caliper
\vr ASSEMBLY
Fig. 1 I-Removing Pistons from Caliper
NN433A
MyMopar.com
5-32
BRAKES
0
NN434B
Fig. 12-Removing Piston Souls from Caliper
ASSEMBLING CALI PER
To reassemble the disc brake caliper, (Fig. 9), proceed as follows:
(1) Clamp inner caliper half in a vise (with protec- tor jaws) by mounting lugs.
(2) Dip new piston seals in clean brake fluid and install in caliper grooves. The seal should be posi- tioned at one area in groove and gently worked around cylinder bore with a finger until properly seated. Never use an old piston seal. (Be sure seals are not twisted or rolled.)
(3) Coat outside diameter of pistons with clean brake fluid and install them in cylinder bores (Fig. 14), with open end of piston and boot retaining groove facing out of cylinder.
(4) Position piston squarely in bore and apply slow steady pressure until piston is positioned. If piston will not position itself, remove piston and check posi- tion of seal for proper position in groove.
(5) Install a new dust boot in position in groove in caliper and in piston. Be sure dust boot is properly seated. manner.
Install new remaining dust boots in same
(6) Install caliper half on one clamped in vise, then install assembly bolts (bridge bolts) and tighten from
70 to 80 foot-pounds. (Under no condition should these bolts be substituted or replaced by an inferior bolt. The use of bolts other than those specified for this purpose, could cause a caliper failure resulting in an accident.
Fig. 14-/nstulling Pirtons in Culiper
(7) Install transfer tube and tighten securely. (Be sure tube is under protective eyebrow.)
(8) Install bleeder screw but do not tighten.
INSTALLING CALIPER
Before installing the caliper assembly over the brake disc, check the disc for runout and thickness variation. Mount a dial indicator (Fig. 15) and check the lateral runout. Runout should not exceed .0025 inch. If runout exceeds the specified figure, remove the disc and install a new one. (Be sure the wheel bearings are adjusted to zero lash during this check.)
Readjust wheel bearings after check.
Thickness variation of the disc, measure the disc at 12 (twelve points with a micrometer at a radius approximately one inch (1”) from edge of disc. If thickness measurements vary by more than .0005 inch, the disc should be replaced with a new one.
(1) Install caliper assembly over disc and align mounting holes. Install mounting bolts and tighten from 50 to 80 foot-pounds. A check should be made to
Fig. 13--Honing Piston Bores
UIX, APPKUXIMAI t L Y f
1 INCH FROM OUTER
EDGE OF DISC
NN437
&
Fig. 15-Checking Bruking Disc Run-out
MyMopar.com
0
BRAKES
5-33 be sure that braking disc runs squarely and centrally within caliper opening. There should be approximate- ly .090 to .120 inch clearance between outside dia- meter of braking disc and caliper. There should also be a minimum of .050 inch from either disc face to machined groove in outboard caliper.
(2) Install shoe and lining assemblies between cali- per and braking disc.
(3) Install shoe retainer springs in position on cali- per. at caliper housing. Allow caliper to fill with brake fluid; then, close bleeder screw. (Be sure all air bub- bles have escaped; bleeding caliper.) Replenish brake fluid in master cylinder.
(5) ”Pump” brake pedal several times to actuate piston seals and position shoe and lining assemblies.
(6) After assembling caliper unit be sure and check for fluid tightness under maximum pedal pressures.
(Recheck master cylinder reservoir level.) Check and be sure that lower shock absorber mounting bolt has been installed from rear and nut toward front of ve- hicle. This i s important. (Fig. 4).
(7) Install wheel and tire assembly and tighten wheel stud nuts to 55 foot-pounds. This is important.
Install wheel cover.
(8) Remove jackstands or lower hoist.
CAUTION: Road test the vehicle and make several stops to wear off any foreign material on the brakes and to seat the linings. The vehicle may pull to one side or the other if this is not done. slot then install cotter pin. The resulting adjustment should be zero (no preload) end play. (This is very important, when checking disc runout.)
(6) Install a dial indicator C-3339 (Fig. 15) and check runout of disc on both sides. The runout should not exceed .0025 inch. Readjust wheel bearing clear- ance after checking braking disc runout.
(7) Clean grease cap, coating inside with wheel grease (do not fill) and install cap.
(8) Install caliper assembly as described in “Install- ing the Caliper” paragraph.
(9) Install wheel and tire assembly and wheel cover.
(10) Remove jackstands or lower hoist.
(11) Road test vehicle as described in “Brake Shoe
Installation” paragraph.
REMOVING SPLASH SHIELD
Should it become necessary to remove the braking disc splash shield because of damage or the installa- tion of the steering knuckle, proceed as follows:
(1) Raise vehicle on a hoist or jackstands.
(2) Remove wheel cover and wheel and tire
as-
sembly.
(3) Remove caliper assembly, as described under
“Removing Caliper” paragraph. Do not disconnect brake line.
(4) Remove grease cup, cotter pin, nut lock, nut, thrust washer and outer wheel bearing.
( 5 ) Pull braking disc and hub off wheel spindle.
(6) Remove bolts that attach splash shield (Fig. 16) to steering knuckle.
REMOVING BRAKING DISC AND HUB
Should it become necessary to remove the braking disc for installation of a new disc, proceed as follows:
(1) Remove wheel cover and wheel and tire sembly. as-
(2) Remove caliper assembly as described under
“Removing Caliper” paragraph, (but do not discon- nect brake line). Suspend caliper from wire hook or loop to avoid strain on hose and damage to transfer tube.
(3) Remove grease cup, cotter pin, nut lock, nut, thrust washer and outer wheel bearing.
(4) off wheel spindle.
INSTALLING SPLASH SHIELD
To install the braking disc splash shield, (Fig. 16), proceed as follows:
(1) Position styrafoam gasket and install splash
INSTALLING BRAKING DISC AND HUB
(1)
(2)
Slide brake disc and hub assembly on spindle.
Install outer bearing, thrust washer, and nut.
(3) Tighten wheel bearing adjusting nut to 90 inch-pounds while rotating hub and disc. line with cotter pin hole.
(5) Back off adjusting nut and lock assembly on Fig. 16-Disc Splash Shkld Mounting
MyMopar.com
5-34
BRAKES
0
I)-.
............ shield in position on steering knuckle, with cutout section toward rear.
(2) Align mounting holes and install attaching bolts. Tighten to 17 inch-pounds.
(3) Reinstall braking disc and hub assembly. Install outer bearing, thrust washer and nut. Tighten front wheel bearing as described previously. Install nut lock, cotter pin and grease cap.
(4) Install caliper assembly as described under “In- stalling Caliper” paragraph.
(5) Install wheel and tire. Tighten wheel stud nuts
(in a star pattern) to 30 foot-pounds, then to 55 foot- pounds. Install wheel cover.
(6) Remove jackstands or lower hoist.
PRESSUR[
I
BLEEDING DISC BRAKE
The disc brake hydraulic system can be bled
(preferably) with pressure bleeding equipment. On disc brake equipped vehicles, the brake pedal will require more pumping, and frequent checking of the fluid level in the master cylinder during the bleeding operation, if pressure bleeding equipment is not used.
It will be necessary to remove the front wheel and tire assemblies in order to gain access to the bleeder screw, located on the outboard caliper housing at the top. (Fig. 1).
Never use brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system, when bleeding the brakes.
On vehicles equipped with disc brakes, be sure that the disc brake pistons are returned to their normal positions and that the shoe and lining assemblies are properly seated.
Before driving the vehicle, check the operation of the brakes to be sure that a firm pedal has been ob- tained.
(1) Remove wheel covers, then raise vehicle using a hoist or jackstands.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Bleed the front brakes first, then proceeding to the right rear and left rear in order.
After bleeding the brakes, proceed as follows:
(1) Install wheel and tire assemblies, tightening
“1 AND REAR BRAKES
--
Fig. 17-Checking Proportioning Valve wheel stud nuts to 55 foot-pounds.
(2)
(3)
Install wheel covers.
Remove jackstands or lower hoist.
TEST1 N G PROPORTION I NG VALVE
When a premature rear wheel slide is obtained on brake application, it usually is an indication that the fluid pressure to the rear brakes is above the reduc- tion ratio for the rear line pressure and that a mal- function has occurred within the proportioning valve, which should be tested.
To test the proportioning valve, proceed as follows:
(1) Install one of Gauge Set (2-4007 and “T” in brake line between master cylinder and proportioning valve and remaining Gauge and “T” at output end of valve and brake line. (Fig. 17). Be sure all joints are fluid tight.
(2) Have a helper exert pressure on brake pedal
(holding pressure). Obtain a reading on master cylin- der output of approximately 500 p s i .
(3) While pressure is being held as above, reading on valve outlet Gauge should be 360-405 p.s.i.
If the proportioning valve pressure readings do not meet the specifications, the valve should be removed and a new valve installed.
Assembling Caliper
BENDIX DISC
BRAKES
INDEX
............................
Assembling Master Cylinder
Bleeding the Disc Brake
Brake Shoe Installation
Brake Shoe Removal
....................
......................
.......................
..........................
Cleaning and Inspection (Caliper)
Cleaning and Inspection (Master
Cylinder)
...................................
Disassembling Ca I i per
Disassembling Master Cylinder
Disc Brake Service Precautions
Page
.............
........................
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
................
42
46
44
40
39
39
41
40
45
37
General Information
I nsta II ing Cali per
Removing Caliper
Service Diagnosis
Specifications
..........................
Installing Braking Disc and Hub
..............................
Installing Master Cylinder
Removing Braking Disc and Hub
................
..............................
Removing Master Cylinder
Page
................
......................
......................
.............................
................................
Testing Proportioning Valve ....................
35
43
43
47
43
40
45
38
48
44
MyMopar.com
0.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The front wheel disc brake (Fig. 1) consists of a fixed caliper (inner and outer housing) two friction pads (brake lining), integrally molded to steel shoes, four pistons, piston return springs, piston seals and dust boots. The brake disc is made from high grade cast iron and has a series of vide for cooling of air vent louvres to pro- the disc. The splash shield that is bolted to the spindle is used to prevent road con- taminants from contacting the inboard side of the disc and lining surfaces (Fig. 2). The wheel, itself, provides protection for the outboard surface of the disc.
The brake disc is mounted on the front wheel hub by five bolts and is straddled by the caliper which is attached to the steering knuckle by two bolts. Inserted between the pistons and the disc are shoe and lining assemblies, which are held in position by parallel machined abutments within the caliper, (Fig. 17).
BRAKES
5-35
Operation
As
the brake pedal is depressed, the hydraulic pressure exerted in the system loads the pistons, clamping the disc between the brake shoe pads with equal and opposite force. When the brake pedal is released, the hydraulic pressure is reduced and the pistons relax. The compressed piston return spring positions the brake shoes lightly against the disc, ready for the next application.
The disc brake, having small friction segments operates on a small area of the braking disc surface, leaving a large proportion of the disc exposed to the atmosphere which allows a maximum dissipation of heat. The disc brake provides consistent performance even on frequent stops from high speed (Fig. 3).
The disc brake automatically compensates for normal wear, since brake shoe lining brushes lightly against disc when brakes are not in use. Thus no adjustments are required. However, periodical inspection should be made to insure that lining does
Fig. I-Disc Brake Assembly
MyMopar.com
5-36
F
BEAR
Fig. 2-Disr Brake Assembly (Sectional)
NNW
MyMopar.com
0
BRAKES
5-37 wheels. It is recommended that both front wheel sets be replaced whenever a respective shoe and lining is worn or damaged. Inspect, and if necessary, re- place rear brake linings also.
If the caliper is cracked or fluid leakage through the casting is evident, it must be replaced as a unit.
PISTO
LINING ASSEMBLY
PISTON BOOT NP54
Fig. 3-Disc Brake Piston, Shoe and Lining
Assembly not wear too thin. The shoes and lining should be replaced when lining has worn to .030 inch. The rate and type of wear will vary considerably with driving conditions.
The large diameter of the caliper pistons uses con- siderably more volume of fluid as compared to the drum type servo brakes, and therefore it is necessary to check the master cylinder fluid level more fre- quently.
A dual tandem master cylinder is provided with this system to enable driver to stop vehicle in event of a failure of either front or rear brakes.
The hydraulic system contains a proportioning valve (rear brakes only) and a rear brake residual pressure check valve. The proportioning valve is mounted on the inside frame rail along with a brake line tube tee.
There is no hydraulic pressure to the calipers when brakes are not applied because there is no residual pressure maintained in front brake system. (See Mas- ter Cylinder.)
The proportioning valve (Fig. 19) provides balanced braking action between the front and rear brakes under a wide range of braking conditions. The valve regulates the hydraulic pressure applied to the rear wheel cylinders, thus limiting rear braking ac- tion when high pressures are required at the front brakes. In this manner, premature rear wheel skid is prevented.
DISC BRAKE SERVICE PRECAUTIONS
Check Brake Lines and Linings
Raise all four wheels. Remove one of the front wheel and tire assemblies and inspect the braking disc, caliper and linings. (The wheel bearings should be inspected at this time and repacked if necessary.)
The caliper must be removed to inspect and pack the inner wheel bearing.
Do not get oil or grease on the disc or the linings.
If the linings are worn to within .030 inch of the sur- face of the shoe, replace both sets of shoe and lining assemblies (inboard and outboard) on the front
Shoe and Lining Wear
If a visual inspection does not adequately deter- mine the condition of the lining, a physical check will be necessary.
To check the amount of lining wear, remove the wheel and tire assembly, the caliper assembly from knuckle then remove the shoe and lining assemblies
(see “Brake Shoe Removal” paragraph). Three (3) thickness measurements with a micrometer should be taken across the middle section of the shoe and lining; one reading at each side and one reading in the center. When a shoe and lining assembly has worn to a thickness of .180 inch, it should be replaced. If shoes do not require replacement, reinstall making sure to replace in their original inner and outer posi- tions (see “Brake Shoe Installation” paragraph).
Brake Roughness
The most common cause of brake chatter on disc brakes is a variation in thickness of disc. If roughness or vibration is encountered during highway operation or if pedal pumping is experienced at low speeds, the disc may have excessive thickness variation. To check for this condition, measure the disc at 12
(twelve) points with a micrometer at a radius ap- proximately one inch (1”) ness measurements vary by more than .0005 inch the disc should be replaced with a new one.
Excessive lateral runout of the braking disc may cause a “knocking back” of the pistons, possibly creating increased pedal travel and vibration when the brakes are applied.
Before checking the runout, the wheel bearing end play should be eliminated by tightening the adjusting nut. The readjustment is very important and will be required at the completion of the test to prevent bear- ing failure. After tightening the adjusting nut, be sure that the braking disc can still be rotated.
Dial indicator C-3339 should be clamped to the steering knuckle so that the stylus contacts the brak- ing disc at a point approximately one (1) inch from the outer edge, (Fig. 18). Rotate the disc and check the indicator reading. The maximum total indicator reading on the gauge should not exceed .005 the reading exceeds this specification, the disc should be replaced. Do not attempt to refinish a disc that indicates runout in excess of the specification.
(1) Grease or any other foreign material must be kept off the caliper assembly, surfaces of the braking
MyMopar.com
5-38 BRAKES
disc and external surfaces of the hub, during service procedures. Handling the braking disc and caliper should be done in a way to avoid deformation of the braking disc and nicking or scratching the brake linings.
(2) I f inspection reveals the rubber piston seals are worn or damaged, they should be replaced immed- iately.
(3) During removal and installation of a wheel and tire assembly, exercise care so as not to interfere with or damage the caliper splash shield, the bleeder screw or the transfer tube.
(4) The front wheel bearing end play i s important and must be within specifications.
(5) Be sure the vehicle is centered on the hoist before servicing any of the front end components to
9 avoid bending or damaging the disc splash shield on full right or left wheel turns.
(6) Before the vehicle is moved after any brake service work, be sure and obtain a firm brake pedal.
(7) The assembly bolts of the two caliper housings should not be disturbed, unless the servicing of the caliper assembly is required.
(8) Riding the brake pedal (common left foot appli- cation) should be avoided during vehicle operation.
(9) The wheel, tire, hub and disc assembly cannot be removed as an assembly. The caliper assembly must be removed before the removal of the hub and disc assembly.
14 x 5-1/2 JK equipped vehicles. wheels are used on disc brake
Condition
EXCESSIVE PEDAL
TRAVEL
BRAKE ROUGHNESS OR
CHATTER (PEDAL
EXCESSIVE PEDAL
EFFORT
PULL
DISC BRAKE SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause Correction
Air, leak, or insufficient fluid in sys- tem or caliper.
Excessive disc runout.
Improper brake fluid (boil).
Rear brake adjustment required.
Warped or excessively tapered shoe and lining assembly.
Loose whee I bearing adjustment
Damaged caliper piston seal.
Power brake ma If uncton.
(a) Check system for leaks.
(b) Check disc for runout wth dial indi- cator. Install new disc.
(c) Drain and install correct fluid.
(d) Check and adjust rear brakes.
(e) Install new shoe and linings.
(f) Readjust wheel bearings to specfied torque.
(g) Install new piston seal.
(h) Check and correct power unit.
Excessive thickness variation of brak- (a) Check disc for runout with dial in- ing disc. dicator.
Excessive lateral runout of braking (b) Check disc for lateral runout with dial disc. indicator. Install new disc.
Excessive front bearing clearance. (c) Readjust wheel bearings to specified
Rear brake drums out-of-round. torque.
(d) Regrind rear drums and check for out-of-round.
Power brake malfunction. (a) Check and correct power unit.
Brake fluid, oil or grease on linings. (b) Install new shoe linings as required.
Shoe and lining worn below ing only-.030”).
Incorrect I i ni ng.
Frozen or seized pistons.
.155” (lin- (c) Install new shoe and linings.
(d) Remove lining and install correct lin- ng.
(e) Disassemble caliper and free up pis- tons.
Brake fluid, oil or grease on linings. (a) Install new shoe and linings.
(b) Frozen or seized pistons. (b) Disassemble caliper and free up pis- tons.
(c) Incorrect tire pressure. (Unbalanced). (c) Inflate tires to recommended pres-
(d) Distorted brake shoes.
(e) Front end out of alignment.
(f) Restricted hose or line.
(g) Unmatched linings. sures.
(d) Install new brake shoes.
(e) Align front end and check.
(f) Check hoses and lines and correct necessary.
(g) Install correct lining. as
MyMopar.com
0
BRAKES
5-39
NOISE
Condition Possible Cause Correction
Groan-Brake noise emanating when slowly releasing brakes (creep-groan)
(a) Not detrimental to function of disc brakes-no corrective action re- qui red.
(Indicate to operator this noise may be eliminated by slightly increasing or decreasing brake pedal efforts.)
SCRAP1 N G
Rattle-Brake noise or rattle emanating at low speeds on rough roads (front wheels only).
(a) Excessive clearance between shoe (a) Install new shoe and lining assem- and the caliper. blies.
(a) Mounting bolts too long.
(b) Braking disc rubbing housing.
(c) Loose wheel bearings.
(a) Install mounting bolts of correct length.
(b) Reposition caliper housing and check disc run out.
(c) Readjust wheel bearings to correct specifications.
FRONT BRAKES HEAT
UP DURING DRIVING
AND FAIL
TO RELEASE
(a) Power brake malfunction.
(b) Sticking pedal linkage.
(c) Operator riding brake pedal.
(a) Check and correct power unit.
(b) Free up sticking pedal linkage.
(c) Instruct owner how to drive with disc brakes.
(d) Disassemble caliper and free up pis- (d) Frozen or seized piston.
(e) Residual pressure valve inder. ton. in master cyl- (e) Remove valve. (See Fig. 3 Master Cyl- inders.)
LEAKY WHEEL
CYLINDER
GRABBING OR
INCONSISTENT
BRAKING ACTION
(a) Damaged or worn caliper piston seal. (a) Disassemble caliper and install new seal.
(b) Scores or corrosion on surface of (b) Disassemble caliper and hone cylin- cylinder bore. der Bore. Install new seal.
(a) Power brake malfunction.
(b) Causes listed under “Pull.”
(a) Check and correct power u n i t
(b) Corrections listed under “Pull.”
BRAKE PEDAL CAN BE
DEPRESSED WITHOUT
BRAKING EFFECT
(a) Pistons pushed back in cylinder bores during servicing of caliper (shoe and lining not properly positioned).
(a) Reposition brake shoe and lining as- semblies. Depress pedal following causes: a second time and if condition persists, check
(b) Leak in system or caliper.
(c) Damaged piston seal in one of the cylinders. or
(b) Check for leak and repair as required. more (c) Disassemble caliper and replace pis- ton seals as required.
(d) Air in hydraulic system or improper (d) Bleed the system. bleeding procedure.
(e) Bleeder screw open. (e) Close bleeder screw and bleed the entire system.
(f) Leak past primary cup in master cyl- (f) Recondition master cylinder.
(g) inder.
Leak in rear brake cylinder. (g) Hone cylinder bore. Install new pis- ton cylinder cups.
(h) Rear brakes extremely out of adjust- (h) Adjust rear brakes. ment.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
BRAKE SHOE REMOVAL
Removing Lining
To remove disc brake shoe and lining assembly,
(Fig.
(1) Raise car on hoist or jackstands.
(2) Remove wheel covers and wheel and tire-as- semblies.
(3) Remove bolts that attach caliper assembly to steering knuckle (Fig. 4).
(4) Remove caliper from disc by slowly sliding cali- per assembly up and away from braking disc. (Fig.
5).
(5) Carefully remove brake shoe and lining as- sembly, (one at a time through bottom opening).
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Check for piston seal leaks (evident by fluid mois-
MyMopar.com
5-40
BRAKES
0
.TS
Fig. &Caliper Assembly Mounting Bolts ture around cavity) and for any ruptures of piston boot. Wipe cavity clean (between inner and outer caliper housings) with a shop towel. Check piston boot for proper seating in piston groove and in cali- per groove. (Fig. 8.) If fluid moisture is evident, it will be necessary to disassemble caliper assembly and install new piston seals and boots. (Refer to “Dis- assembling Caliper” Paragraph.)
BRAKE SHOE INSTALLATION
To install disc brake shoe and lining assemblies
(Fig. 6), proceed as follows:
(1) Slide disc brake shoe and lining assemblies into position in caliper assembly (one at a time), with curved portion (with tabs) entering first and metal shoe against open ends of pistons. Using fingers, spread linings apart until pistons are seated in their bores.
(2) Slide caliper assembly down into position over brake disc and align mounting holes.
(As
caliper is being lowered, be sure that lining slides easily
-HUB
Fig. 6-Removing or Installing Brake Shoes and Lining along braking disc.
(3) Install caliper mounting bolts and tighten 75-
105 foot-pounds. mum drag.
(5) Install wheel and tire assemblies and wheel covers.
(6) Remove jackstands or lower hoist.
CAUTION: Road test vehicle and make several stops to wear off any foreign material on brakes and to seat linings. The vehicle may pull to one side or other if this is not done.
REMOVING CALIPER
Should it become necessary to remove caliper for installation of new parts, proceed as follows:
(1) Raise car on hoist or jackstands.
(2) Remove wheel covers, wheel and tire assemblies.
Disconnect brake line at the caliper housing and in- stall a 3/8-24 per. (Fig. 4.)
(4) Remove bolts that attach caliper assembly to steering knuckle. (Fig. 4.) caliper assembly up and away from braking disc.
(6) Remove lining pads. Remove caliper to bench for disassembly.
D
ISASS EM B LI N G CALI PER
To disassemble Ealiper (Fig. 7), proceed as follows:
(1) Drain caliper, then place caliper assembly in a vise. Remove bolts that hold two halves of caliper together.
\r
Fig. 5-Removing or lnstalltng Culiper dust boot out of groove (Fig. 8). Be sure and hold
MyMopar.com
0
OUTER CALIPER HOUSING PISTON SEAL
I
DuST\BooT
BRAKE SHOEHAND LINING
PISTON RETURN SPRING
BRAKES
5-41
SEAL /
PISTON RETURN SPRING
DUST BbOT
\ "
PISTON SEAL
/
BLEEDER SCREW NNlOOl
Fig. 7-Disc Brake Calipor Assembly (Exploded View) piston compressed during this operation.
(4) Remove piston, piston seal and dust boot from caliper (Fig. 9). Remove piston return spring.
(5) Remove piston dust boot by grasping edge and pulling out of its groove (Fig. 10).
(6) Using fingers, roll piston seal out of its groove in piston. (Fig. 11). Discard seal.
(7) Remove remaining three pistons in same man- ner.
(8) Remove bleeder screw from inner caliper hous- ing. bores in both housings for scoring or pitting. Bores that show light scratches or corrosion, can usually be cleaned with crocus cloth. However, bores that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, using
Tool C-3993, not increased more than .002 inch. If the bore does not clean up within this specification, a new caliper
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean all parts in alcohol; wipe dry, using clean lint free shop towels. Using an air hose, blow out drilled passages and bores. Check dust boots for punctures or tears. If punctures or tears are evident, new boots should be installed at reassembly. Inspect piston
PLASTIC STICK OR
SMALL SCREWDRIVER fig. 9-Removing Piston, Boot, Seal and
Return Spring
PISTON BOOT
Fig. 8-Removing Piston Dust Boot
PIS
Fig. IO-Removing or installing Piston Boot
MyMopar.com
5-42
BRAKES
~
/SPECIAL TOOL
0
N P63
Fig. 1 1-Removing or installing Piston Seal housing should be installed. (Black stains on the bore walls are caused by the piston seals and will do no harm.)
When using hone C-3993 (Fig. 12) be sure and in- stall the hone baffle before honing bore. The baffle is used to protect the hone stones from damage.
Use extreme care in cleaning the caliper after hon- ing. Remove all dust and grit by flushing the caliper with alcohol; wipe dry with a clean lintless cloth and then clean a second time in the same manner.
ASSEMBLING CALI PER
To reassemble disc brake caliper, (Fig. 7), proceed as follows:
(1) Clamp caliper housing in a vise, and coat cyl- inder bores with #55 Dow-Corning Pneumatic cone Grease (or
Sili- equivalent) then install piston re- turn spring. (Be sure spring is seated in recess at bottom of bore.) (Fig. 9.) (Large diameter down.)
(2) Coat outside diameter and fill inner diameter of a new piston seal with #55 Dow-Corning Pneumatic
Silicone Grease (or equivaient) and work over piston land and down into position in groove, using fingers only. (Fig. 11.)
(3) Install dust boot on piston with lip of seat to- ward piston (Fig. 10).
(4) Using tapered sleeve Tool C-4031,
Fig. 13-Piston and Sed Tool ton, seal and boot into sleeve, with lip of seal wards taper. Push in on assembly until seal lip to- is even with knife edge of sleeve. (Fig. 13.)
(5) Place installing tool over bore opening and re turn spring. Index with boot groove in caliper. (Fig.
14). Press down on piston, sliding piston out of tool and into caliper bore until bottomed. Remove sleeve.
(6) Position piston boot sealing lip over groove evenly. Using Tool (2-4030, press down on tool, forc- ing boot sealing lip into caliper groove. (Fig. 15).
Remove tool. Install remaining pistons in same man- ner. (Fig. 16).
.
PECIAL TOOL
I
/
CALIPER BORE
Fig. 14-/nstulling Piston, S w l Boot
N P64
SPECIAL TOOL
CALIPER
\ ,SPECIAL TOOL
Fig. 12-Honing Piston Bore
NP62 w NP65
Fig. 15-/nstulling Piston Boot in Caliper broove
MyMopar.com
0
(7) Test pistons for smooth operation in their bores by depressing with fingers.
(8) Lightly clamp outer caliper half in vise and in- stall new crossover passage seals in position in cess of caliper mating surface. (Fig. 16). re-
(9) Place mating caliper half over one clamped in vise and install attaching bolts. Tighten from 120 to 140 foot-pounds.
BRAKES
CURVED PORTION OF SHOE FACING UP
5-43 curved portion (with tabs) entering first and metal shoe against open ends of pistons. Using fingers, spread linings apart until pistons are seated in their bores. (Fig. 17.)
(11) Install bleeder screw and tighten lightly.
INSTALLING CALIPER
Before installing caliper assembly over brake disc, check disc for runout. Mount a dial indicator (Fig.
18) and check lateral runout. Runout should not ex- ceed .005 inch. mounting holes. Install mounting bolts and tighten to 85 foot-pounds. (As caliper is being lowered into place, be sure that lining rides freely over disc.)
(2) Reconnect brake line at caliper housing then position brake hose bracket. Install bracket and at- taching bolts and tighten securely. Follow normal bleeding procedure. (Be sure all air bubbles have es- caped.) Replenish brake fluid in master cylinder.
(3) Install wheel and tire assembly and wheel covers.
(4) Remove jackstands or lower hoist.
CAUTION: Road test the vehicle and make several stops to wear off any foreign material on the brakes and to seat linings. The vehicle may pull to one side or the other if this is not done.
REMOVING BRAKING DISC AND HUB
Should it become necessary to remove braking disc for installation of a wheel stud proceed as fol- lows:
SEAL
/
-BOOT
NOTE SMOOTH SURFACE OF
I N GROOVE
.
MACHINED
IABUTMENT~
Fig. 17-Shoe and Lining Correctly Positioned in
Caliper
(1) Remove wheel cover and wheel and sembly. tire as-
(2) Remove caliper assembly as described under
“Brake Shoe Removal.”
(3) Remove grease cup, cotter pin, nut lock, nut, thrust washer and outer wheel bearing.
(4) Pull hub and disc off spindle.
Should it become necessary to remove or install a wheel stud because of damage, proceed as follows:
(1) Remove damaged stud, using an arbor press.
(2) Install new stud in position and press into place.
INSTALLING BRAKING DISC AND HUB
Removing Wheel Stud from Hub
(1) Slide brake hub and disc assembly on spindle.
(2) Install outer bearing, thrust washer, and nut.
(3) Tighten wheel bearing adjusting nut to 90 inch-pounds while rotating hub and disc. of slots in line with cotter pin hole.
(5) Back off adjusting nut and lock assembly one slot then install cotter pin. The resulting adjustment
ADJUST WHEEL
BEARING TO
PISTON NP66
Fig. 16-Pistons and Boots Installed in Caliper
DIAL INDICATOR
APPROXIMATE
Fig. 184hecking Braking Disc for Run-Out
MyMopar.com
5-44
BRAKES
0 the brakes to be sure that a firm pedal has been tained.
(1) Raise vehicle using a hoist or jackstands. ob-
(2) Bleed brakes in usual manner, starting with right rear, then proceeding to left rear, right front and left front in order.
After bleeding the brakes, proceed as follows:
(1) Remove jackstands or lower hoist.
(2) Test drive vehicle to be sure brakes are oper- ating correctly and that pedal is solid.
Fig. 19-Checking Proportioning Vulve should be zero (no preload) to .003 inch end play.
(This is very important, when checking disc runout.)
(6) Install a dial indicator C-3339 (Fig. 18) and check runout of disc outer surface. The runout should not exceed .005 inch.
(7) Clean grease cap, coating inside with wheel grease (do not fill) and install the cap.
(8) Install caliper assembly as described in “Brake
Shoe Installation.”
(9) Install wheel and tire assembly and wheel cover.
(10) Remove jackstands or lower hoist.
(11) Road
Caliper.” test vehicle as described in “Installing
TESTING PROPORTIONING VALVE
When a premature rear wheel slide is obtained on brake application, it usually is an indication that the fluid pressure to the rear brakes is above the 50% reduction ratio for the rear line pressure and that a malfunction has occurred within the proportioning valve, which should be tested.
To test the proportioning valve, proceed as follows:
(1) Install one of Gauge Set C-4007 and “T” in brake line between master cylinder and proportioning valve and remaining Gauge and “T” at output end of proportioning valve and brake line. (Fig. 19). Be sure all joints are fluid tight.
(2) Have a helper exert pressure on brake pedal
(holding pressure). Obtain a reading on master cylin- der output of approximately 500 p s i .
(3) While pressure is being held as above, reading on valve outlet Gauge should be 360-405 p.s.i.
If proportioning valve pressure readings do not meet specifications, the valve should be removed and a new valve installed.
Refacing Braking Disc
The surface of disc should be smooth. The light scoring and grooving which appear after normal use are not detrimental to operation of brake. A heavily scored disc will impair efficiency and increase lining pad wear, and should be replaced with a new disc and hub assembly. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REFACE
BRAKING DISC DUE TO CLOSE TOLERANCES
REQUIRED. THIS IS IMPORTANT!
BLEEDING DISC BRAKE
The disc brake hydraulic system can be bled manually or with pressure bleeding equipment. On disc brake equipped vehicles, the brake pedal will require more pumping, and frequent checking of the fluid level in the master cylinder during the bleeding operation.
Never use brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system, when bleeding the brakes.
On vehicles equipped with disc brakes, be sure that the disc brake pistons are returned to their normal positions and that the shoe and lining assemblies are properly seated.
Before driving the vehicle, check the operation of
Balancing Front Wheels (Disc Brake
Equipped Vehicles)
To balance front wheels on a disc brake equipped vehicle, the normal procedure for static balancing as described under “Wheel Balance” in the Wheels,
Bearings and Tires Section of this manual should be
INLET. followed. Dynamic balancing of front wheels can be accomplished by the normal procedure when wheels are removed from the vehicle, but Manufacturer’s recommendations should be followed closely when attempting to balance wheels while on the vehicle.
-
Fig. 20-Proportioning Vulve
NU240
MyMopar.com
0
BRAKES
5-45
MASTER CYLINDER
(Bendix
and
Kelsey-Hayes Disc Brakes)
INDEX
Bleeding Master Cylinder
Cleaning and Inspection
Disassembling Master Cylinder
General Information
......................
.......................
................
...........................
Hydraulic System Safety Switch
Page
...............
47
46
45
45
48
Installing Master Cylinder
Master Cylinder Removal
Reassembling Master Cylinder
Testing Master Cylinder
Page
.....................
47
......................
.......................
Testing Hydraulic System Safety Switch
45
46
47
........
48
GENERAL INFORMATION
The tandem master cylinder (Fig. 1) is of the compensating type with the reservoirs cast integrally.
The master cylinder consists of a front and rear pis- ton (in tandem) two outlets, with 1 containing a residual pressure valve and spring (rear brake line outlet only), (Fig. 3).
The front outlet tube from the master cylinder is connected to the hydraulic system safety switch (Figs.
8 or 9) and thence to the rear brakes. The rear out- let tube from the master cylinder is also connected to the safety switch and the front brakes.
The master cylinder used on vehicles not equipped with power brake units is serviced in the same man- ner as the master cylinder with power brakes with one exception, the master cylinder with power brakes does not include the push rod.
The drum brake master cylinder is different than the disc brake master cylinder and is covered in the service brake section of this group.
MASTER CYLINDER REMOVAL
SERVICE PROCEDURES
panel and/or power brake unit, (if so equipped).
Should it become necessary to service the master cylinder, remove from the vehicle as follows:
(1) Disconnect front and rear brake tubes from master cylinder and install a plug in rear outlet.
(The residual pressure valve in front outlet will keep cylinder from draining).
(2) Disconnect pedal push rod (drum type brakes) from brake pedal.
(3) Remove nuts that attach master cylinder to cowl panel and/or power brake unit, (if so equipped).
(4) Slide master cylinder straight out from cowl
DISASSEMBLING MASTER CYLINDER
To disassemble the master cylinder, (Figs. 1 and
4) clean the outside of the master cylinder thoroughly.
(1) Press bail to one side and remove cover and gasket. Empty brake fluid from reservoirs.
(2) Remove piston retaining screw and gasket (Fig.
2), then slide rear piston assembly out of cylinder bore.
(3) Upend master cylinder and tamp (open end down) on bench to remove front piston and spring. If front piston sticks in bore of cylinder, use air pres- sure to force piston out of cylinder. New cups must
ON
RESIDUAL PRESSURE
VALVE REAR BRAKE
LINE ONLY
REAR BRAKES
\
\ GASKET
I
ISTON
REAR BR
OUTLET OUTLET SCREW
\sr
N P n
Fig. I-Tandem Master Cyhnder Assembly
SPECIAL TOOL
T:RFgy -
Fig. 2-Removing Tube S e a t s
MyMopar.com
5-46 BRAKES
Fig. 3-Removing or lnstalling Residual Pressure
Valves and Springs be installed at reassembly if air pressure is used.
(4) Remove front piston compression spring from bore.
(5) Using Tool T109-178 (or an easy out) remove tube seats by threading tool firmly into seat, tap tool and seat out of cylinder body. (Fig. 2). Discard seats.
(6) Remove residual pressure valve and spring from front outlet (Fig. 3).
(7) Remove rubber cups from pistons after noting position of cup lips. Do not remove center cup of rear piston. If cup is damaged rear piston assembly. or worn. Install a new
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean master cylinder thoroughly, using a suitable
0 solvent and dry with compressed air. Wash the cyl- inder bore with clean brake fluid and inspect for scoring or pitting. Master cylinder bore walls that have light scratches or show signs of corrosion, can usually be cleaned with crocus cloth. However, cyl- inder bores that have deep scratches be or scoring may honed, providing the diameter of the bore is not increased more than .002 inch. If master cylinder bore does not clean up at .002 master cylinder should be discarded and a new mas- ter cylinder installed.
If master cylinder pistons are badly scored or cor- roded, replace them with new ones. The piston cups and seals should be replaced when recondition- ing a master cylinder.
When overhauling a master cylinder, use all parts furnished in repair kit. Discard all used rubber parts.
REASSEMBLING MASTER CYLINDER
Front
Piston
Before assembling the master cylinder, dip all component parts in clean brake fluid and place on a clean shop towel or paper. (Assembling seals dry can ruin them.)
(1) Carefully work primary cup on end of front piston with the lip away from piston (Fig. 4).
(2) Carefully work second seal cup over rear end of piston and into second land. (Be sure lip of cup is facing front of piston). (Fig. 4).
(3) Carefully work rear secondary cup over piston and into rear land. The lip must be facing toward rear (Fig. 4).
GASKET \ s
--I*
. - --
RESIDUAL PRESSURE
VALVE SPRING
\
RESIDUAL
\
7 -
COVER
CYLINDER BODY
NP30A
PRIMARY PISTON
RETAINER SCREW
Fig. &Tandem Master Cylinder (Exploded V i e w )
MyMopar.com
BRAKES 5-47
(4) Slide cup retainer over stem of front piston with beveled side away from piston cup (Fig. 4).
(5) Position small end of pressure spring into re- tainer, then slide assembly into bore of cylinder
(Fig. 5). Be sure cups enter bore evenly in order not to damage sealing quality of cups. (Keep well Iubri- cated with brake fluid.)
Rear Piston
(1) Carefully work secondary cup over rear end of rear piston with lip of cup toward front (Fig. 4).
(2) Center spring retainer of rear piston assembly over shoulder of front piston. Push piston assemblies into bore. Carefully work lips of cups into bore, then seat piston assemblies. (Fig. 6).
(3) Holding pistons in seated position, install pis- ton retaining screw and gasket. Tighten securely
(Fig. 6).
3)
(4) Install residual pressure valve and spring (Fig. in front outlet then install tube seats firmly.
(When the bleeding tubes are attached, the tube seats will be positioned correctly.)
BLEEDING MASTER CYLINDER
Before installing master cylinder on vehicle, it must be bled on the bench as follows:
(1) Clamp master cylinder in a vise and attach bleeding tubes Tool C-4029 (Fig. 7).
(2) Fill both reservoirs with approved brake fluid.
(3) Using a wooden stick or dowel (power brake equipped vehicles) depress push rod slowly. (Note air bubbles.) Allow pistons to return under pressure of springs. Do this several times or until bubbles cease to appear (Fig. 7).
(4) Remove bleeding tubes from cylinder and install plug in rear outlet. maining in tubes will syphon out.)
(5) Place cover and gasket over reservoirs and secure with bail.
N O T E FLUTES
ON PRIMARY
_ _ c
TESTING MASTER CYLINDER
Be sure that the master cylinder compensates at both ports. This can be done by applying the pedal lightly with the engine running (power brakes) and observing for a gyser of fluid squirting up in the reservoirs. This may only occur in the front chamber and so to determine if the rear compensating port is open, it will be necessary to pump up the brakes rapidly and then hold the pedal down. Have an ob- server watch the fluid in the rear reservoir while
BUBBLES
N P 3 2
Fig. 6-Installing Rear Piston Assembly
(6) Remove master cylinder from on vehicle as follows: vise and install
INSTALLING MASTER CYLINDER
(1) Install master cylinder on vehicle, aligning push rod with cowl panel opening (manual) or power brake push rod with master cylinder piston.
(2) Slide over mounting studs. Install attaching nuts and tighten to 9 foot-pounds.
(3) Connect front and rear brake tubes and tighten to 150 inch-pounds.
(4) Bleed brakes at wheel cylinders, using regular procedure, being sure fluid level is maintained. (See
Bleeding the Brake System).
W O O D E N STICK i.A
PISTON R E T A I N I N G
SCREW A N D G A S K E T
REAR PISTON
_ _
- w
Front Piston and
. -
BLEEDING TUB
Fig. 74leeding Master Cylinder
MyMopar.com
5-48
SPEC1 FlCATlO
NS
FROM MASTER CYLINDER
PORT STAMPED “F”
PISTON SEAL
PLUG n
-
WSAFETY w
L r w-d
ASSEMBLY
a
ISTON ASSEMBLY
ORT STAMPED “R“
MOUNTING
BRACKET NP34
Fig. 9-Hydraulic System Safety Switch
(Exploded View) sembly. The component parts of the switch body a n not serviced. However the switch unit can be re- moved if a malfunction occurs, and a new switch unit installed.
If a new safety switch or body assembly is installed, be sure and bleed the brake system.
NP16A
Fig. 8-Hydraulic System Safety Switch (Sectional) the pedal is raised. A disturbance in the fluid indi- cates that the compensating port is open.
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM SAFETY SWITCH
The hydraulic system safety switch (Figs. 8 and 9) is used to warn the vehicle operator that one of the hydraulic systems has failed. A failure in one part of the brake system does not result in failure of the entire hydraulic brake system.
As
an example, failure of the rear brake system w i l l leave the front brake system still operative.
As
pressure falls in one system, the other system’s normal pressure forces the piston to the inoperative side; contacting the switch terminal, causing a red warning light to come on in the instrument panel, thus warning the operator of the vehicle, that one of the systems hasdailed and should be repaired.
The safety switch is mounted on the frame in a vertical position, with the brake tubes connected, as shown in (Fig. 8).
If a malfunction occurs within the switch, discon- nect tubes from body assembly and install a new as-
TESTING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM SAFETY
SWITCH
The brake warning light flashes only when the parking brake is applied with the ignition key turned
“ON”. The same light will also illuminate should one of the two service brake systems fail when the brake pedal is applied. To test the system turn the ignition key “ON”, and apply the parking brake. If the light fails to light, inspect for a burned out bulb, discon- nected socket, a broken or disconnected wire at the switch.
To test the service brake warning system, raise the car on a hoist and open a wheel cylinder bleeder while a helper depresses the brake pedal and observes the warning light. If the light fails to light, inspect for a burned out bulb, disconnected socket, a broken or disconnected wire at the switch. If the bulb is not burned out and the wire continuity is proven, re- place the brake warning switch in the brake line Tee fitting mounted on the frame rail in the engine com- partment below the master cylinder.
SP ECI FI CAT1
0
BRAKES-SERVICE AND PARKING
Dart
Type
DRUM DIAMETER
NUMBER
Front
.............................................
OF BRAKE SHOES
......................
...........................................
6 Cyl.
Duo-Servo Single Anchor
Y f
8
2-9/16” wide
V-8 & H.D.
Duo-Servo Single Anchor
1V’
8
2-91 16“ wide
MyMopar.com
0
Rear
...........................................
BRAKE LINING
Front Primary
Front Secondary
Rear Primary
...................................
Rear Secondary
'Thickness Primary
.................................
................................
Secondary
WHEEL CYLINDER
..............................
Front Wheel Cylinder Bore
Rear Wheel Cylinder Bore
MASTER CYLINDER BORE
........................
2-11 16" wide
Molded Asbestos
2-114" wide 7-518" long
2-112ff wide 9-518" long
2'
wide 7-518" long
2ff wide 9518" long
31 16"
114"
4 per car lff
131 16"
1"
Coronet
Type
DRUM DIAMETER
(Police Special
WIDTH (Standard)
Front
Rear
Front
Rear
Front Primary
Front Secondary
Rear Primary
Rear Secondary
BRAKE LINING
Front Primary
Rear Primary
&
NUMBER OF BRAKE SHOES
...........................................
...........................................
(POLICE SPECIAL & HEAW DUTY)
...........................................
...........................................
BRAKE LINING (1GlNCH)
...................................
(11
...................................
Front Secondary
...................................
Rear Secondary
Thickness Primary
................................
Heavy Duty)
.................................
INCH)
Secondary
WHEEL CYLINDER
Front Wheel Cylinder Bore
Rear Wheel Cylinder Bore
MASTER CYLINDER BORE
......................
................................
................................
.............................
.......................
.......................
.........................
6 Cyl.
Duo-Servo Single Anchor
1U'
11"
8
2-11 2"
1314"
3"
2-112ff
11"
9-114"
12-118"
9-112"
12-11 8"
31 16"
114"
1-118"
151 16"
1"
SPEC I FI CAT1 0 N S 5-49
1-131 16" wide
Molded Asbestos
2-112" wide 8-l/2ff long
2-112" wide 11" long
1-314'' wide
1-314" wide
31 16"
114"
4 per car
1-1/8ff
151 16"
1"
V-8 & H.D. & Sub.
Duo-Servo Single Anchor
1W'
11"
8
2-112"
2 - 1 p
3"
2-112"
Moulded Asbestos a-11 2ff
11"
8112"
11"
9-114"
12-11 8"
9114"
12-118"
31 16"
114"
1-118" i51i6"
1"
KELSEY-HAYES DISC BRAKE
Type of Brake
Location
...........................................................
Master Cylinder Reservoir
Proportioning Valve Location
Brake Adjustment
Residual Valve Location
........................................
............................................ ....
Fixed Caliper Disc
Front Wheels Only
Horizontal Tandem (Dual)
Left Sill
None (Automatic)
............................................ In Master Cylinder Outlet (to rear brakes only)
CALIPER ASSEMBLY
Shoe and Lining Removal
Number of Pistons
Piston Diameter
....................................................
Piston Bore Diameter
Maximum Allowable (After Honing)
Piston Seals
Piston Dust Boots
Bleeder Screw Location
Transfer Tube Type
...........................................
.................................................
Radially Outward (Remove Clips)
4 (Each Unit)
1-5/8"
..............................................
1.636"
................................
.......................................................
Moulded Rubber (Square Section)
................................................
External Moulded Rubber
4 Per Unit
............................................
Outer Housing 318"
................................................
1.638"
.092" Wide, .lo0 Radial Thickness
Short Overhead
Type
..............................................................
Diameter Outside
Inside
..................................................
Ventilated Cast
11.04"
...................................................
6.91"
Iron
MyMopar.com
5-50
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
d
Disc Runout (Maximum Allowable) TAR.
Disc Surface Finish
Disc Thickness
Disc Parallelism
Type
Lining Thickness
Width
Length
Braking Area
....................................................
(Total
..............................................................
.... .:. ............................................
.............................................................
Maximum Wear (Minimum Thickness Allowed)
MASTER CYLINDER
Piston Bore Diameter
Variation
BRAKE SHOE AND LINING in
............................
Thickness)
15 to
.810”
.......................
.0005”
............................................................
......................................................
.......................
.0025“
4.82”
80
Bonded
.4W‘
1.84”
Micro Inches
(Nominal)
8.50” Sq. In./Segment
Not less than 1/32“ lining at any point or a minimum shoe and lining thick- ness of .180”
..............................................
1’”
Maximum Bore Diameter Allowable (After Honing)
Residual Valve
....................................................
.002”
O.S.
Rear Brakes Only
DISC SPLASH SHIELD
Type
..............................................................
Mounting
..........................................................
Ven tedSta m ped Stee
3 Bolts to Knuckle
I
PROPORTIONING VALVE
Type
..............................................................
P.S.I. Cut
Reduction
In
....................................................... in Rate of Rear Line Pressure Build Up
...................
Pressure Control
300P.S.I.
After 300 P.S.I. Actuation Pressure.
WHEELS
Type
..............................................................
Diameter
Drop Center
..........................................................
14 x
4-1/2 J Special
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
Caliper Mounting Bolts
Caliper Assembly Bridge Bolts
Disc Splash Shield Bolts
Caliper Bleeder Screw
Shoe Clips (Retainers)
......................................
...............................
....................................
.......................................
................
Foot-Pounds
50-80
70-80
......................................
7-9
Brake Tube Fitting Nuts to Proportioning Valve
Wheel Assembly to Front Wheel Hub and Disc Assembly Nuts
...
55
Inch-Pounds
17
100
90.100
BENDIX DISC BRAKE
DISC BRAKE
Type
..............................................................
Location
..........................................................
Master Cylinder Reservoir
Proportioning Valve Location
Brake Adjustment
Residual Valve Location
..........................................
.......................................
..................................................
............................................
CALIPER ASSEMBLY
Shoe and Lining Removal
Number of Pistons
Piston Diameter
....................................................
Piston Bore Diameter
..........................................
.................................................
...............................................
Maximum Allowable (After Honing)
...............................
Piston Seals
.Piston Dust
.......................................................
Boots
Piston Return Springs
..............................................
Bleeder Screw Location
............................................
Cross Over Passage Seals
..........................................
BRAKING DISC
Type
Diameter-Outside
.................................................
Fixed Caliper-Disc
Front Wheels Only
Horizontal Dual
Inside Stub Frame Rail
None (Automatic)
In Tandem Master Cylinder (to rear brakes only)
Bottom-Caliper Removed
4 Each Assembly
1.9980”-1.9959’’’
2.0015”-2.ooo(y’
.002”’ Oversize
Moulded Rubber-1 per piston
Moulded R u b b e r 4 per Caliper
1
Assy. per piston
On Inner Housing (top)
Rubber “0”
VentilatedPast Iron
11.19’’
MyMopar.com
0
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
5-51
Inside
Disc Thickness
..................................................
Disc Run Out (Maximum Allowable) T.I.R.
Disc Surface Finish
............................
................................................
....................................................
Minimum Thickness Allowable for wear before replacement
Disc Parallelism (Total variation in thickness)
........................
6.876"
.005" (.OOlfl in 3
3 reversals in
' and no more than
360"
40 micro inches
.886"-.878"
.........
,816"
.0005"
BRAKE SHOE AND LINING
Type
..............................................................
Lining and Shoe Thickness
Length
.........................................
..........................................................
Minimum Lining Thickness Allowed
.................................
Integrally Molded
.605"-.625"
5.294-5.299"
.03V
Lining a t any point or a minimum shoe and lining thickness of .172"
MASTER CYLINDER
Type
..............................................................
Piston Bore Diameter
...............................................
Maximum Bore Diameter Allowable (after honing)
Residual Pressure Valve
....................
............................................
Tandem Piston
DISC SPLASH SHIELD
Type
..............................................................
Mounting
Non-Vented
..........................................................
3 Bolt
PRO PO RTI
Type
0 N I
..............................................................
Cut-In Pressure
G VALVE
Rear line pressure proportioned at 2.3:l ratio
Pressure Control
....................................................
300 P.S.I.
WHEELS
Type
..............................................................
Diameter
..........................................................
Mounting Stud Circle
...............................................
Drop Center
14 x 5 1 / 2 JK Special
4-1/2" 5 bolt
REAR BRAKES
Rear Wheel Shoe and Lining
Size
.......................................
..............................................................
Cylinder Bore Diameter
.............................................
Cycleweld-Molded &Bonded
10 x 2-1/2
15/16" inch
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
Foot-Pounds
Caliper Mounting Bolts
......................................
75-105
Caliper Assembly (Bridge Bolts)
Disc Splash Shield Bolts
Caliper Bleeder Screw
..............................
.....................................
.......................................
Brake Tube Fitting Nuts to proportioning valve
................
Wheel Assembly to Front Wheel Hub and disc assembly
........
120-140
17
10
55
Inch-Pounds
145@1700
120
90.100
POWER BRAKE TIGHTENING
REFERENCE
Pedal Link to Pedal Bolt
..........
Master Cylinder Mounting Nuts
Power Brake Unit to Dash Nuts
30 foot pounds
....
100 inch pounds
....
150 inch pounds
MyMopar.com
0
GROUP 6
CLUTCH
CLUTCH-SERVICING
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING
CLUTCH RELEASE FORK
CONTENTS
..................
CLUTCH HOUSING ALIGNMENT
CLUTCH PEDAL FREE PLAY
............
...............
Page
........
10
...........
8
CRANKSHAFT TO TRANSMISSION DRIVE
PINION PILOT BUSHING
............
4
3
8
8
GENERAL INFORMATION
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
SERVICE PROCEDURES
SPECIFICATIONS
..............
..................
Page
1
2
3
......................
11
STEAM CLEANING PRECAUTIONS
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
......
.............
TORQUE SHAFT AND BEARINGS
11
12
........
9
GENERAL INFORMATION
The clutches used on all models are a single, dry disc type (Figs. 1 and 2), with no adjustment for wear being provided in the clutch itself. The clutch pedal linkage, however, is provided with an adjustable rod to maintain specified pedal free play.
The three pressure plate release levers are preset during manufacture and no attempt should be made to adjust them in service.
The clutch sizes for the various car models are de- scribed in specification charts at end of this section.
The Semi-centrifugal type clutch (Fig. 2), combines the feature of low pedal effort with that of a clutch capable of transmitting the full torque of the engine.
DISC
\
Six
centrifugal rollers are assembled between the pressure plate and cover. These rollers are provided to increase the normal load on the disc assembly at higher engine speeds.
As
the engine speed increases, the centrifugal force of the rollers causes them to act as wedges between the cover and pressure plate and exert greater force against the disc.
Clutch Pedal and Bracket (Fig. 3,4,5)
The clutch pedal is connected to the torque shaft through a vertically positioned rod. A non-adjustable over-center spring is provided between the pedal and the pedal bracket to allow easy clutch pedal operation.
PLATE
’
Fig. I-Clutch Disuss~mbled
NRl79
MyMopar.com
6-2 CLUTCH
0
SLEE
RELEASE LEVER
EYEBOLT NUTS
NY7OA
The upper end pedal bracket on of two
Fig. 2-Clutch Disassembled (Semi Centrif ugal) the clutch pedal pivots in the needle bearings or nylon bush- ings. These bearing do not require periodic lubrica- tion.
Condition
CLUTCH CHATTER
CLUTCH SLIPPING
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause
(a) Worn or damaged disc assembly.
(b) Grease or oil on disc facings.
(c) Improperly adjusted cover assembly.
Correction
(a) Replace disc assembly.
(b) Replace disc assembly.
(c) Replace clutch assembly.
(a) Burned, worn, or oil soaked facings. (a) Replace disc assembly.
PEDAL STOP
PLAIN WASHER
LOCK RING
~ E M B L Y
FRAME SIDE RAIL BOOT
Fig. 3-Clutch Pedal and Linkage (Dart)
NP131B
MyMopar.com
0
Condition
DIFFICULT
SHIFTING
GEAR
CLUTCH NOISY
CLUTCH
6-3
Possible Cause
(b) Insufficient pedal free play.
(c) Weak or broken pressure springs.
(a) Excessive pedal
(b) free play.
Worn or damaged disc assembly.
(c) Improperly adjusted cover assembly,
(d) Clutch disc splines sticking.
Correction
(b) Adjust release fork rod.
(c) Replace clutch assembly.
(a) Adjust release fork rod.
(b) Replace disc assembly.
(c) Replace clutch assembly.
(d) Remove disc assembly and splines or replace disc. free up
(a) Dry clutch linkage.
(b) Worn release bearing.
(c) Worn disc assembly.
(d) Worn release levers.
(e) Worn or dry pilot bushing.
(f) Dry contact pressure plate lugs cover.
(a) Lubricate
(b) where necessary.
Replace release bearing.
(c) Replace disc assembly.
(d) Replace clutch assembly.
(e) Lubricate or replace bushing. in (f) Lubricate very lightly.
CLUTCH PEDAL FREE PLAY
SERVICE PROCEDURES
The only adjustment required for the clutch is the pedal linkage adjustment to provide the prescribed clutch pedal free play. The adjustment is necessary to restore pedal free play reduced by normal clutch wear. screw (Fig. 6).
(3) Adjust fork rod by turning self-locking adjust- ing nut (Figs. 7, 8 or 9) to provide 5/32 inch free movement at end of fork. This movement will provide prescribed one-inch free play at pedal.
(4) Adjust interlock rod as described below.
Adjusting
(1)
Clutch Pedal Free Play
Inspect condition of clutch pedal rubber stop
(Figs. 3, or 5). If stop is damaged, install a new one.
(2) On models with 3 speed transmission disconnect gearshift interlock rod by loosening rod swivel clamp
Gearshift lnterlock (Fig. 6 )
(1) Disconnect clutch rod swivel from interlock pawl.
(2) Adjust clutch pedal free play as specified.
(3) is in neutral (middle detent) position, the interlock pawl
Fig. &Clutch Pedal and Llnkage (Dart 3
NR180A
MyMopar.com
6-4 CLUTCH
3
EARING (8-CYl. AND 6-CYL
BUSHING (6-CYL.)
OVER-CENTER SPRING
NR181
Fig. 5-Clufch Pedul und Lfnkage ICoronW will enter the slot in first-reverse lever.
(4) Loosen swivel clamp bolt and slide swivel on rod to enter pawl. Install washers and clip. Hold inter- lock pawl forward and tighten swivel clamp bolt to
100 inch-pounds. Clutch pedal has to be in full re- turned position during this adjustment.
CAUTION: Do not pull clutch rod rearward to en- gage swivel in the pawl.
( 5 ) Shift transmission in normal manner from neu- tral to first, and from neutral to reverse (disengage clutch while shifting and engage clutch when in gear).
Clutch action should be normal.
(6) Disengage clutch and shift halfway to first or reverse. Clutch should now be held down by interlock to within 1 or 2 inches of floor. move clip and plain washer securing interlock rod to torque shaft lever and remove spring washer, plain washer and rod from torque shaft.
(6) Remove clutch release bearing and sleeve
as-
sembly from clutch release fork (Fig. 10) then remove release fork and boot from clutch housing.
(7) Mark clutch cover and flywheel (Fig. 11) to maintain their same relative positions when reinstall- ing clutch assembly.
(8) Loosen and back off clutch cover attaching bolts, one or two turns at avoid bending cover flange. a time, in succession, to
(9) Remove clutch assembly and disc from clutch housing.
CLUTCH-SERVICING
Improper operation the or excessive wear may impair clutch function to a point where it may be nec- essary to remove and replace the disc, and/or clutch assembly. Should this become necessary, proceed as follows:
Removal
(1) Remove transmission. See “Manual Transmis- sion,” Group 21, for detailed procedure.
(2) Remove clutch housing pan.
(3) Remove one end of return sprnig from clutch release fork and the other end from torque shaft lever or clutch housing (Fig. 7, 8 or 9).
(4) Remove spring washer securing fork rod to torque shaft lever pin and remove rod from pin and release fork (Figs. 7, 8 or 9).
( 5 ) On all models with the 3-speed transmission, re-
Fig. M e a r s h i f i Interlock
NN107A
MyMopar.com
0
CLUTCH 6-5
CLUTCH HOUSING
SPRING WASHER
DAMPENER WASHER
ORK RETURN SPRING
INTERLOCK ROD
FRAME SIDE RAIL -CYL. EXCEPT
RELEASE FORK NR183A
Fig. 7-Torque S h d und Linkuge (Dart)
CAUTION: Handle clutch and disc carefully to avoid contaminating the friction surfaces. this time.
(2) Friction face of flywheel should have a uni- form appearance throughout entire disc contact area.
Cleaning a n d inspection
If there is evidence of heavy contact on one portion
(1) Use compressed air to clean dust out of clutch of wear circle and a very light contact 180 degrees housing. Inspect for oil leakage through engine rear from that portion, flywheel may be improperly main bearing oil seal and transmission drive pinion mounted or sprung. In either case, a dial indicator seal. If leakage is noted, it should be corrected at mounted on clutch housing with plunger in contact
DASH PANEL
SPRING WASHER
DAMPENER WASHER
TORQUE SHAFT ASSEM
RK RETURN SPRING
RELEASE FORK
FRAME SIDE RAIL
CLUTCH HOUSING
TORQUE SHAFT BRACKET
FORK RETURN SPRING
Fig. 8-Torque Shuft und Ltnkuge IDurt 383)
NR184
MyMopar.com
0
6-6 CLUTCH
CLUTCH HOUSING
-
SPRING WASHER
FORK
---\.-/
~ f i \ D A l t C
BEARING
S
/ \
WASHER
FORK ROD ADJUSTING NUT ---,
CLUTCH
C U A C T DCTI Ink1 C D D l k l e
TORQUE SHAFT
INTERLOC..
..--
SHAFT LEVER
PLAIN WASHER
FORK RETURN SPRING
8-CYL. EXCEPT 318 CU. IN.
18 CU. IN
ONLY
ENGINE
RELEASE FORK
NR185A
Fig. 9-Torque Shaft and Linkage (Coronet) with wear circle, should show no more than .003 inch runout throughout complete rotation of flywheel.
(3) Friction face of flywheel should also be free from discoloration, burned areas, small cracks, grooves or ridges.
(4) The bushing in end of crankshaft should be smooth and show no excessive wear. A new transmis- sion main drive pinion, or C-3181 Bushing Installing and Burnishing Tool, can be used to gauge size of bushing. The tool should be a snug fit in bushing.
If necessary to replace bushing, proceed as detailed under “Crankshaft to Transmission Drive Pinion Pilot
Bushing.”
(5) The end of transmission main drive pinion should be smooth and bright, without grooves and ridges.
/I‘
,./
d
BEARING AND SLEEVE
PIVOT\ S,PRIYGS,
(6) The disc assembly should be handled without touching facings. Replace disc if facings show dence of grease evi- or oil soakage, or wear to within less than .015 inch of rivet heads. The hub splines and splines on transmission main drive pinion should be a snug fit without signs of excessive wear. Metallic portions of disc assembly should be dry and clean and show no evidence of having been hot. Each of the arched springs between facings should be un- broken and all rivets should be tight.
(7) Wipe friction surface of pressure plate with kerosene, mineral spirits or other suitable solvent.
(8) Using a straightedge, check pressure plate for
MARKS
I i
RELEASE FORK
FLYWHE
/
RETAINING SPRING’ CLUTCH HOUSING/
NN95A
Fig. IO-Clutch Release Fork, Bearing and Sleeve Fig. I I-Marking Clutch and Flywheel
MyMopar.com
0
CLUTCH 6-7 flatness. The pressure plate friction area should be flat within .005 inch and free from discoloration, burned areas, cracks, grooves or ridges.
(9) Inner ends of release levers should have a uni- form wear pattern.
(10) Using a surface plate, test cover for flatness.
All sections around attaching bolt holes should be
in
contact with surface plate within .015 inch.
(11) The cover should be a snug fit on pressure plate lugs.
If clutch assembly does not meet these require- ments, it should be replaced.
(12) Examine condition of clutch release bearing.
CAUTION: The clutch release bearing is a prelubri. cated, sealed thrust bearing and should not be im- mersed in solvent.
The bearing should turn freely, when held in the hands under light thrust load, with no evidence of roughness.
(13) If bearing is noisy, rough or dry, install a new one on sleeve as detailed under “Clutch Release Bear- ing.” fns)allafion
(1) Lubricate transmission drive pinion pilot bush- ing in end of crankshaft with about one-half teaspoon of special long-life chassis grease or Multi-Mileage Lu- bricant, Part Number 2525035. Place lubricant in radius back of bushing.
(2) Clean the surfaces of flywheel and pressure plate thoroughly with fine sandpaper or crocus cloth, and make certain that all oil moved. or grease has been re-
(3) Hold clutch disc, pressure plate and cover in mounting position, with springs on disc damper fac- ing away from the flywheel. Do not touch disc facing, as contamination may result in clutch chatter. Insert
C-360 Clutch Disc Aligning Arbor through hub of disc and into bushing (Fig. 12). If (2-360 Arbor is not available, use a spare transmission drive pinion.
(4) Install clutch cover attaching bolts (after align- ing balance punch marks, (Fig. l l ) , but do not tighten them.
(5) To avoid distortion of the clutch cover, bolts should be tightened a few turns at a time (alternately) until they are all tight. Tighten 5/16 inch bolts to
200 inch-pounds, 3/8 inch bolts to 30 foot-pounds. Re- move (2-360 Arbor (or drive pinion if used).
(6) Fill cavity of bearing sleeve with Multi-Mileage
Lubricant, Part No. 2525035, or Automotive Multi-
Purpose Grease, NLGI grade 2 EP. Also, apply a film of this same lubricant to release fork pads of sleeve
(Fig. 13).
(7) Position release bearing and sleeve assembly in clutch housing as far forward as possible.
(8) Lubricate fork fingers and retaining spring, at
Fig. 12-Clutch Disk Aligning Arbor pivot contact area (Fig. 13) with a film of Multi-Mile- age Lubricant, Part Number 2525035, or Automotive
Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI grade 2 EP.
(9) Engage fork fingers under clutch sleeve retain- ing springs. Be sure retaining springs on sleeve have lateral freedom (Fig. 10).
(10) Be sure groove in seal is engaged in seal open- ing flange in clutch housing (Fig. 10).
(11) Insert threaded end of fork rod assembly in hole in end of release rod fork (Figs. 7, 8 or 9) Install eye end of fork rod on torque shaft lever pin and secure with spring washer.
(12) Install one end of return spring to clutch re- lease fork and the other end to torque shaft lever or clutch housing (Fig. 7, 8 or 9).
(13) On all models with 3-speed transmission, in- stall spring washer, plain washer and interlock rod in torque shaft lever and secure with plain washer and clip.
CAUTION: Do not lubricate splines or pilot end of transmission drive pinion when installing transmit- sion. These areas must be kept dry.
(14) Install C-730 Pilot Studs in clutch housing and install transmission as detailed in “Transmission In- tallation,” Group 21.
(15) Adjust clutch linkage as detailed under “Ad- justing Clutch Pedal Free Play.”
FORK CONTACT
RETAINING SPRING,
AREAS/ K
SLEEVE CAVITY
\
PADS
/
. . . - .
CONTACT AREA
Fig. 13-Clutch Lubrication Points
NR133
MyMopar.com
6-8
CLUTCH
0
TRANSMISSION TO DRIVE PINION
PILOT BUSHING
See Paragraph “Clutch Cleaning and Inspection,” to determine serviceability of bushing.
(3) Install clutch release fork in housing, being careful to engage flat retaining spring in hole in pivot and under retaining springs of bearing sleeve.
(4) Install dust seal over release fork and engage groove of seal in clutch housing (Fig. 10).
Removal
(1) C-3185 Bushing Re- mover Tool in contact with button on end of center screw.
(2) Thread outer portion of tool tightly into bushing.
Turn center screw into outer portion of tool to remove bushing. fork. Install eye end of fork rod on torque shaft lever pin and secure with spring washer (Fig. 7, 8 or 9). fork and the other end to torque shaft lever or clutch housing (Fig. 7, or 9). justing Clutch Pedal Free Play”.
/nstallation
(1) lation.
(2) Remove nut and cup from
Burnishing Tool.
C-3181
(3) Place new bushing on tool shaft and drive bush- ing flush with end of crankshaft. Use a soft hammer to prevent damaging tool.
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Removed from
Clutch)
Removal
(1) noisy, rough or dry when rotated by hand, under light thrust load, remove bearing from sleeve.
(2) Support bearing in a vise or press and press out sleeve. is tightened, tool will burnish bushing.
( 5 ) Insert about one-half teaspoon of special long- life chassis grease or Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part
Number 2525035, in radius at rear of bushing in end of crankshaft. cant.
Assembly
CAUTION: Exercise care when installing a new clutch release bearing to avoid damaging bearing race. Never drive bearing on sleeve with a hammer. Use either of following two methods.
CLUTCH RELEASE
FORK
Removal
(1) release fork and the other end from torque shaft lever or clutch housing (Fig. 7,8 9).
(2) Remove spring washer securing fork rod to torque shaft lever and remove rod from torque shaft.
(3) dust seal out of clutch housing and remove from release fork (Fig. 10).
(4) Grasp outer end of clutch fork and pull fork out and free of retaining springs and pivot (Fig. 10). The clutch fork has a riveted flat retaining spring that i s engaged in a hole in the pivot. The clutch release fork pivot is an ‘L’ shaped bracket bolted inside the clutch housing.
(5) Remove fork from clutch housing. installation
Before installing release fork, lubricate as follows:
(1) Apply Multi-Mileage Lubricant, Part Number
2525035, or Automotive Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI grade 2 EP, to edge of pivot hole (Fig. 13).
(2) Also, apply a film of the same lubricant to the pivot contact area of fork retaining spring and contact areas of fork fingers.
Vise Method
(1) Position new bearing on sleeve and place old bearing against face of new bearing.
(2) Support parts in a vise and carefully press new bearing on sleeve (Fig. 14). Make certain bearing is seated on shoulder of bearing sleeve. Rotate bearings as they are pressed together.
Press Method
(2) Position new bearing on sleeve and place old bearing on new one.
(3) Bring press ram into contact with old bearing and apply sufficient pressure to seat new bearing against shoulder of sleeve. Rotate bearings as they are pressed together.
Lubrication
Before installing bearing and sleeve assembly, lub- ricate parts as follows:
(1) Fill cavity of bearing sleeve with Multi-Mileage
Lubricant, Part Number 2525035, or Automotive
Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI grade 2 EP, (Fig. 13).
(2) Also, apply a film of this same lubricant to re- lease fork pads of sleeve.
MyMopar.com
0
CLUTCH 6-9
(10) Disassemble torque shaft assembly by remov- ing snap ring, ball studs, seals and bearings.
Fig. 14-Replacing Clutch Release Bearing
(3) A film of the same type lubricant should be ap- plied to the pivot contact area of fork retaining spring and contact areas of fork fingers.
Installat ion
(1) Install bearing and sleeve assembly in clutch housing, engaging fork under sleeve springs (Fig. 10).
Be sure springs have lateral freedom.
CAUTION: Do not lubricate splines or pilot end of transmission drive pinion when installing transmis- sion. These areas must be kept dry.
(2) Install C-730 Pilot Studs in clutch housing and install the transmission as detailed
Installation,” Group 21. in “Transmission
(3) Adjust clutch linkage as detailed under “Ad- justing Clutch Pedal Free Play.”
TORQUE SHAFT AND BEARINGS
Removal
(1) On all models, remove spring clip securing pedal rod to torque shaft lever pin (Figs. 7, 8 or 9) and remove pedal rod from pin.
(2) On models equipped with 3-speed transmission, remove clip and plain washer securing gearshift inter- lock rod to torque shaft lever and remove spring washer, plain washer and rod from torque shaft.
(3) Remove one end of return spring from clutch release fork and the other end from torque shaft lever or clutch housing (Fig. 7 , 8 or 9).
(4) On Coronet 6-cylinder models, detach outer torque shaft return spring from hook attached to torque shaft lever and spring bracket (Fig. 9).
(5) On all models, remove spring clip securing fork rod assembly to torque shaft lever pin and remove rod from pin (Fig. or 9).
(6) Remove nut and cone washer from frame end ball stud.
(7) On Dart models, remove two screws and wash- ers securing ball stud bracket to clutch housing (Fig.
7 or 8).
(8) On Coronet models, unscrew ball stud from clutch housing (Fig. 9).
(9) Slide or lift frame end of torque shaft from torque shaft bracket, depending on type of bracket, and remove torque shaft assembly from vehicle.
Cleaning
(1)
and
fnspection
Clean all parts in kerosene, mineral spirits or other suitable solvent. Remove all grease from inside torque shaft.
(2) The two ball studs should be bright and free from scratches, ridges or other surface imperfections.
(3) The inner surfaces of bearings should also be smooth and free from surface scratches or embedded foreign material. The wear pattern should be uniform over entire surface.
(4) Replace worn or cracked rubber seals.
Installation
(1) Install new seals on ball studs (Figs. 7, 8 or 9).
(2) Coat counterbored ends of torque shaft, torque shaft bearings and ball studs with Multi-Mileage
Lubricant, Part Number 2525035, or Automotive
Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI grade 2 EP.
(3) Install bearings on ball studs and push studs and bearings into torque shaft. Install snap ring on frame end of shaft.
(4) On Dart models, insert ball stud through frame side rail bracket and position inner stud and bracket against clutch housing. Install two bracket bolts and washers and tighten to 200 inch-pounds. On Dart models with 383 cubic inch engine, tighten bolts to 40 foot-pounds. Install washer and nut on end of outer stud and tighten to 40 foot-pounds (Fig. 7 or 8).
(5) On Coronet models, place torque shaft assembly in approximate position and thread inner ball stud into clutch housing. Tighten stud to 40 foot-pounds.
Position frame end of torque shaft in slotted frame bracket. Install lockwasher and nut on stud and tighten to 40 foot-pounds (Fig. 9).
(6) Install pedal rod on torque shaft lever pin and secure with spring washer (Fig. 7 , 8 or 9).
(7) Insert threaded end of fork rod assembly in hole in end of release fork. Install eye end of fork rod on torque shaft lever pin (Fig. 7, 8 or 9) and secure with spring washer.
(8) Install one end of return spring to clutch release fork and the other end to torque shaft lever or clutch housing (Fig. 7, 8 or 9).
(9) On Coronet 6-cylinder models, connect outer torque shaft return spring between hook on torque shaft lever and spring bracket.
(10) On Dart models, install spring washer, plain washer and gearshift interlock rod in torque shaft lever (Fig. 7) and secure with plain washer and clip.
On Coronet models, install plain washer and gearshift interlock rod in torque shaft lever (Fig. 9) and secure with spring washer, plain washer and clip.
MyMopar.com
6-10
CLUTCH
m
CLUTCH HOUSING ALIGNMENT
When performing adjustments or repairs that in- volve removing the clutch housing, it will be neces- sary to check transmission mounting bore runout and squareness to the crankshaft when reassembling.
Bore
(1)
Runout
bolt about 3 inches long. Mount Dial Indicator C-3339 on this bolt with a “C” clamp (Fig. 15).
(2) With (2-771 wheel while noting dial indicator needle deflection.
Bore out-of-round must not exceed .008 inch maxi- mum total indicator reading, total indicator reading. or .004 inch, one-half
(3) Excess bore runout can be corrected by install- ing correct size offset dowels (Fig. 16 or 17). These dowels are available in three offset sizes and they must be installed in pairs of the same size: .007 inch,
Part Number 1736347; .014 inch, Part Number
1736348 and .021 1736353.
(4) To illustrate recommended correction proce- dure, assume total indicator reading is .020 inch, in a direction which approximates 2 o’clock on engine block (Figure 16 or 17,
(5) is off crankshaft centerline
.010 inch (one-half total indicator reading) which is
.006 inch greater than allowable limit of .004 inch
(one-half total indicator reading).
REAR FACE OF ENGINE BLOCK NY 1601A
Fig. 16-Offset Dowel Diagram (6 Cyl.) of .009” through .020”, use a .007” dowel (No.
1736347); .022” through .034”, .014” dowel (No.
1736348) and .036” through .050”, use .021“ dowel
(No. 1736353).
(8) To install dowels, remove clutch housing and old dowels from rear face of engine block.
(9) Install both dowels with slots parallel and aligned in direction to correct bore runout. (Slot indi- cates direction of maximum dowel eccentricity). Both dowels must be inserted into engine block, up to off- set shoulder.
Tighten 7/16 inch bolts to 50 foot-pounds and 3/8 inch bolts to 30
(11) dial indicator and remeasure bore runout. Small corrections can be made by removing clutch housing (if necessary) and turning dowels with a screwdriver to shift housing and bring bore within
limits.
two .007 inch dowels will bring runout within the allowable limits of .004 inch minus .007 inch (dowels) which equals .003
(7) The amount of eccentricity of the dowel will produce a total indicator reading change of double the dowel eccentricity, therefore, select a pair of dowels with the nearest to one-half of total indicator runout of bore. For runout (total indicator reading)
Face Sguareness
(1) 18) and rotate fly- wheel, using Tool C-771. total indicator reading is
I 12
NR135
Fig. 15--Measuring Clutch Housing Bore Runout
KR5
REAR FACE OF
ENGINE BLOCK
6
Fig. 1 7 a s d Diagram (8 -1.)
MyMopar.com
0
SPECIFICATIONS
6-1 1 remeasuring squareness, tighten 7/16 inch housing bolts to 50 foot-pounds and 3/8 inch bolts to 30 foot- pounds.
(3) Install clutch release bearing, fork, linkage and transmission. Adjust clutch linkage.
NR136
Fig. IO-Measuring Clutch Housing Face Sguareness greater than .006 inch, note amount of total indicator reading and location of lowest indicator reading @e., point where indicator arm or follower is extended farthest).
(2) To correct squareness, place proper thickness shim stock between clutch housing and engine block or between transmission and clutch housing. After
STEAM CLEANING PRECAUTIONS
Since the clutch housing has provisions for ventila- tion, condensation from steam vapors tend to accumu- late on the internal clutch mechanism when the vehicle is steam cleaned. The facings of the disc will absorb moisture, and the force exerted by the pres- sure plate, will bond the facings to flywheel and/or pressure plate, if car is allowed to stand for some time before use. If this condition occurs, it will neces- sitate replacement of disc assembly, flywheel and/or clutch assembly. Immediately after cleaning opera- tion, start engine and "slip clutch" in order to dry off disc assembly, pressure plate, and/or flywheal.
SPEC I FI CAT IO N S
DART-CORONET CLUTCH
Size
9-1 4"
9-112"
10"
10-112"
11"
11"
11"
11"
*L= Dart
APPLl CAT1
0
N CHART
Trans. Cover & Press.
Speeds Plate Assy. No.
3 1
3 2
3 or 4
3 or 4
4
3
4
4
4
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
W = Coronet
Disc
Assy. No.
1
2
3
4
4
5
6
7
7
Engine
Cu. In.
170-225
273
318
340-383
225
383
426
440
Car
Model*
LW
L
L
LW
L
W
W
W
W
MyMopar.com
6-12
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
Size
9-1 14"
9-1 / 2"
10"
10-11 2"
10-112"
11"
11"
11"
11"
6
7
8
9
3
4
5
Assy.
No.
1
2
COVER AND PRESSURE PLATE ASSY.
I
DENTI FlCATlON CHART
Part
Number*
2409692
2800827
2409699
2122255
2409688
2409682
2800860
2768 160
2800857
Springs
No. & Color
3 Red Stripe
3 White
6 Black-3 Lavender
3 White-6 Plain
6 W h i t e d Tan
3 W h i t e d Plain
6 W h i t e d Tan
9 W h i t e 4 Plain
9 White-3 Plain
Mounting Bolt
Circle Dia.
10-518"
10-51 8"
11-51 8"
11-518"
12-51 8"
12-51 8"
12-5 1 8"
12-518"
Size
9-114"
9-1/2ft
--
10"
10-112"
11"
11"
11"
4
5
6
7
ASSy.
No.
1
2
3
CLUTCH DISC ASSY.
IDENTIFICATION CHART
Part
Number*
2401 102
2401120
2200051
2266232
2409683
2800861
2768162
Facing Dia.
Outside x Inside
9-114" x 6"
9-112" x 6-112"
10" x 6-314"
10-1/2" x 6-112"
11" x 6-112"
11" x 6-1/2n
11" x 7"
*Part Numbers subject to change during model year.
Springs
No. & Color
6 Enclosed
6 Enclosed
5 Black-5 Red
5 Green-5 Tan
6 Blue
5 Green-5 Tan
5 Plain
0
Centrifugal
Assist Rollers
0
0
0
6
6
0
6
3
6
Spline
Inside Dia.
151 16"
151 16"
151 16"
151 16"
151 16"
151 16"
1-1/ 16"
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
POUNDS
Clutch Cover to Flywheel Bolts
Clutch Cover to Flywheel Bolts
Clutch Fork Pivot Bolts
Clutch Housing to Engine Bolts
Flywheel Screws
Flywheel Screws
(All
(426
. .
Clutch Housing Pan Bolts
. except
(5116").
(3/8").
. . . . . .
Clutch Housing to Engine Bolts
Hemi)
426
. . . . .
(3/8").
(7116").
Hemi)
.
FOOT INCH
200
.
.
.
30
30
50
55
70
200
200
POUNDS
Torque Shaft Ball Stud
Torque Shaft Ball Stud Nut
Torque Shaft Ball Stud Bracket
Screws (Dart except 383
(383
6 and 8-Cylinder,
Cu. In. Engine)
. .
Torque Shaft Ball Stud Bracket
Screws Cu. In. Engine)
. . . . .
Transmission to Clutch Housing Bolts..
..
. . .
........
.
.
FOOT INCH
40
40
40
50
200
MyMopar.com
0- GROUP 7
ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES
CONVERSION TABLE
ENGINE WATER TEMPERATURE GAUGE
FAN
.................................
FLUID FAN DRIVE
. . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
.....................
PRESSURE TESTING COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE TESTING RADIATOR CAP
RADIATOR
. . . .
7
............................
RADIATOR HOSES
.....................
.
Page
8
12
.
8
3
3
8
4
7
COOLING
CONTENTS
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
Page
. . . . . . . . . . . .
7
REVERSE FLUSHING COOLING SYSTEM
.
5
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
SPEC I FI CAT1 0 N S
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
THERMOSTAT
........................
TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER
WATER PUMP
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1
......................
10
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . .
........................
12
6
5
4
GENERAL INFORMATION
In order to provide satisfactory protection for the wide variety of corporation models the cooling system of each must be tailored to specific needs. To do this effectively the Corporation offers five basic systems:
(1) Standard
(2) Air Conditioning
(3) High Capacity Fan
(4) Maximum Cooling
(5) Trailer Towing
The standard system consists of a tube and spacer type radiator, 16 psi radiator pressure cap, centrifugal water pump, 190°F. thermostat*, and a four or seven blade fan. See specifications for application.
The cooling system for air conditioned equipped vehicles generally requires a greater capacity radiator along with a fan shroud, special centrifugal water pump, larger fan, and thermostatically controlled fan drive (in some installations). See specifications for applications.
The optional capacity fan to protect against over- heating for unusual operating conditions.
The maximum cooling system consisting of a larger radiator and on some models radiator shrouds and/or hood-to-yoke seals are used to provide protection against overheating for unusually severe operation re- quirements.
The trailer towing package is a combination of the maximum cooling package and the high capacity fan, as necessary to provide protection against overheat- ing when towing trailers.
For internal cooling system protection each cooling system is factory equipped with sufficient permanent type anti-freeze for -20°F. protection. It is recom- mended that the coolant be changed annually to in- sure adequate anti-freeze and corrosion protection. In areas where anti-freeze is not required, Chrysler rust resistor or equivalent must be added to the water coolant for normal corrosion protection. Air condi- tioned cars require year round protection with permanent type anti-freeze with a minimum of
+
15°F. protection for summer operation and addi- tional anti-freeze in the winter according to the pre- vailing temperatures.
*170 Cubic Inch Engine has a 200" thermostat.
Condition
EXTERNAL LEAKAGE
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause Correction
(a) Loose hose clamp.
(b) Hose leaking.
(c) Leaking radiator.
Replace the hose clamp.
Replace the hose.
Repair or replace the radiator a s necessary.
Replace the water pump. (d) Water pump leaking through vent (d) hole.
Loose core hole plug. (e)
Damaged gasket, or dry gasket, if (f) engine has been stored.
Cylinder head bolts loose, or tightened (g) unevenly.
Leak at heater connection. (h)
Install new core hole plug.
Replace gaskets a s necessary.
Replace the cylinder head gasket and torque head in correct sequence.
Clean the heater connections and replace the hoses and clamps if necessary.
MyMopar.com
7-2 COOLING SYSTEM
Condition
INTERNAL LEAKAGE
0
Possible Cause Correction
(i) Leak a t water temperature sending (i) Tighten the water temperature send- unit. ing unit.
(j) Leak a t water pump attaching bolt,
(k) Leak at exhaust manifold stud.
(I) Cracked thermostat housing.
(j) Tighten the water pump attaching bolts to 30 foot-pounds.
(k) Seal and re-drive the stud.
(I) Replace the thermostat housing.
(m) Dented radiator inlet or outlet tube. (m) Straighten the radiator inlet or outlet tube as necessary.
(n) Leaking heater core.
Cracked or porous water pump hous- ing.
(p) Warped or cracked cylinder head.
(4)
(n) Repair or replace the heater core.
(01
Replace the water pump assembly.
(p) Replace the cylinder head.
(4)
(r) Sand holes or porous condition in (r) Replace the cylinder block block or head. head as necessary. or cylinder
(s) Faulty pressure cap. (s) Replace pressure cap.
(t) Loose or stripped oil cooler fittings. (t) Tighten or replace as necessary.
(a) Faulty head gasket.
(b) Refer to causes (f), (g), (p), (q), (r) and
(t) listed under External Leakage.
(c) Crack in head into valve compart- ment.
(d) Cracked valve port.
(e) Crack in block into push rod compart- ment.
(f) Cracked cylinder wall.
(g) Leaking oil cooler.
(a) Install a new head gasket.
(b) Refer to corrections (f), (g), (p), (q),
(r) and (t) listed under External Leak- age.
(c) Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder head.
(d) Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder head.
(e) Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder block.
(f) Pressure test cooling system, replace the cylinder block.
(g) Repair or replace the oil cooler.
POOR CIRCULATION
OVERHEATING
(refer to Causes and
Corrections listed under “Poor Circulation”)
(a) Low coolant level.
(b) Collapsed radiator hose. hose with faulty spring may collapse only a t medium or high engine speeds.)
(c) Fan belt lose, glazed, or oil soaked.
(a) Fill radiator to correct level.
(A bottom (b) Replace the hose and spring.
(d) Air leak through bottom hose.
(e) Faulty thermostat.
(c) Tighten or replace the fan belt as necessary.
(d) Reposition hose clamps or replace the hose. Check radiator outlets for dents or out-of-rounds.
(e) Replace the thermostat.
(f) Replace the water pump. (f) Water pump impeller broken or loose on shaft.
(g) Restricted radiator core water pas- sages.
(h) Restricted engine water jacket.
(g) Flush the radiator thoroughly
or
rod
out if necessary.
(h) Flush the engine cooling system thor- ough ly.
(a) Blocked radiator air passages.
(b) Incorrect ignition timing.
(c) Low engine oil level.
(d) Incorrect valve timing.
(e) Inaccurate temperature gauge.
(f) Restricted overflow tube.
(g) Faulty radiator pressure cap or seat
(h) Frozen heat control valve.
(i) Dragging brakes.
(j) Excessive engine idling.
(k) Frozen coolant.
(I) Faulty fan drive u n i t
(m) Faulty temperature sending unit
(a) Clean out the radiator air passages.
(b) Time the engine ignition system.
(c) Add engine oil to the correct level.
(d) Correct the engine valve timing.
(e) Replace the temperature gauge.
(f) Remove restriction from overflow tube.
(g) Replace the radiator cap. Clean or re- place seat.
(h) Free up manifold heat control valve.
(i) Adjust the brakes.
(j) Increase idle R.P.M. freeze as required. or stop engine.
(k) Thaw out cooling system, add anti-
(I) Replace the fan drive u n i t
(m) Replace the sending u n i t
MyMopar.com
0
COOLING
SYSTEM 7-3
Condition
OVERFLOW LOSS
(Also refer to Causes and
Corrections listed under
‘‘Poor Circulation and
Overheating”)
CORROSION
TEMPERATURE TOO
LO W-S LOW EN GlNE
WARM-UP
WATER PUMP
Possible Cause C o r d o n
(a) Overfilling. (a) Adjust coolant to the correct level.
(b) Coolant foaming due to insufficient (b) Flush the radiator and add antifreeze corrosion inhibitor.
(c) Blown head gasket.
(d) Broken
or
rust inhibitor as required.
(c) Replace the head gasket. or shifted lower hose spring. (d) Replace lower hose.
(a) Use of water containing large concen- (a) Use only clean soft water with tration of lime and minerals.
(b) Insufficient corrosion inhibitor. tor.
(b). Use antifreeze qui red.
or
inhibi- rust inhibitor as re-
(c) Use of antifreeze of time.
(d) Failure to use corrosion inhibitor summer. for extended length (c) Drain cooling system and replace with new antifreeze. in (d) Flush radiator and refill with clean
(a) Faulty thermostat.
(b) Inaccurate temperature gauge.
(c) Faulty temperature sending unit.
(a) Replace the thermo!
(b) Replace the temper; stat
3ture gauge.
; u n i t
(a) Seal noisy.
(b) Bearing corroded. be.
(b) Replace water puml
I NSUFFl CI ENT
ACCESSORY OU
DUE TO BELT
TPUT
SL..
.
____
BELT SQUEAL WHEN
ACCELERATING
ENGINE
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELTS
(a) Belt too loose.
(b) Belt excessively glazed or worn.
(a) Adjust belt tension.
(b) Replace and tighten as specified.
Belts too loose.
Belts glazed.
(a) Adjust belt tension.
(b) Replace belts.
BELT SQUEAK AT IDLE Belt to loose.
Dirt and paint imbedded in belt.
Non-uniform belt.
Misaligned pulleys.
Non-uniform groove ley.
(a) Adjust belt tension.
(b) Replace belt.
(c) Replace belt.
(d) Align accessories (file brackets or use spacers as required). or eccentric pul- (e) Replace pulley.
BELT ROLLED O---- ---
.
. _
VER IN (a) Broken cord in belt
GROOVE (b) Belts not matched (A/C).
(a) Replace belt. ts.
BELT JUMPS (a) Belt too loose.
(b) Belts not matched (A/C).
(c) Misaligned pulleys.
(a) Adjust belt tension.
(b) Install matched bell
(c) Align accessories.
ts.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
FAN
There are no repairs to be made to the fan. fan i s bent or damaged it should be replaced.
If the
Removal
(1) Remove lower radiator outlet notch cover screws and cover from fan shroud i f equipped with
26 inch width radiator. See specifications for applica- tion.
(2) Remove shroud attaching screws, separate shroud from radiator, position shroud rearward on engine. Fan attaching screws can now be removed.
(3) On models equipped with fluid fan drive,
re-
move fan drive attaching screws. The fan and fluid fan drive are removed as a unit. lnsfullation
Use correct fan spacer,
if
requi so clearance between fan blades and radiator i s 3, to 1-1/4 inches.
No fan spacer permitted with fluid fan drive regard- less of fan blades to radiator clearance. Install upper half of shroud or one piece shroud on vehicles so equipped. Tighten fan belt as outlined in “Belt Ten- sion Specifications”.
FLUID FAN DRIVE
CAUTION: To prevent silicone fluid from draining into fan drive bearing and ruining the grease, do not place drive unit with shaft pointing downward.
Torque Control Drive
The Torque Control Drive (Fig. 1) i s a silicone fluid
MyMopar.com
7-4 COOLING SYSTEM
NK4WA
NK480A
Fig. I-Torque Control Fan Drive filled coupling connecting the fan to the fan pulley.
The unit allows fan to be driven in normal manner at low engine speeds while limiting the top speed of fan to predetermined level at higher engine speeds.
Thermal Control Drive
Air conditioned vehicles only, the Thermal Control
Drive (Figs. 2 and 3) is essentially the same as the
Torque unit except for a thermostatic spring on the drive face. This thermostat senses temperature from the radiator and engages the drive for higher fan speed if temperature from the radiator rises above a certain point.
In case of engine overheating during slow car speed or idle operation, increase engine speed to approxi- mately 1000 rpm in neutral gear If condition is not corrected by increasing engine speed, replace fan drive unit with a unit known to be operating properly and test by operating vehicle under same conditions.
Replace original drive unit assembly if trouble was corrected with test unit.
Fig. 3-Thermal Control Fan Drbe (3 1 8 - 3 8 3 4 4 0 Cubic lnch Engine with 2.93: 1 or Higher Axle Ratio)
WATER PUMP
Note: The water pump is serviced only as an assembly.
When replacing the water pump do not install a stand- ard water pump on any air conditioned vehicle or vice versa. See specifications for proper pump.
Removal
(1) Drain the cooling system. (Remove upper half of fan shroud if so equipped or set one piece shroud back on engine).
(2) Loosen power steering pump, idler pulley and alternator. Remove all belts.
(3) Remove fan, spacer (or fluid drive) and pulley.
CAUTION: To prevent silicone fluid from draining into fan drive bearing and ruining the grease, do not place drive unit with shaft pointing downward.
(4) Remove the bolts attaching the water pump body to the housing. Remove the water pump and dis- card gasket.
fnstallation
(1) Install water pump body on housing, using a new gasket.
(2) Tighten bolts to shaft by hand to be
30 sure foot-pounds. Rotate pump it rotates freely. Install pul- ley, spacer (or fluid drive) and fan.
(3) Tighten nuts to 15 foot-pounds. Install upper half of fan shroud
Fill the or one piece shroud if so equipped. cooling system and test for leaks. Tighten belts as outlined in “Belt Tension Specifications”.
RADIATOR
NP541
Fig. 2--thermcrl Control Fan Drive (3 18 Cubic lnch
Engine with 2.76:l Axle Ratio)
Removal
(1) Drain cooling system.
(2) On vehicles with automatic transmission, dis- connect oil cooler lines at radiator bottom tank.
(3) Remove lower radiator outlet notch cover screws and cover from fan shroud if equipped with
MyMopar.com
0
COOLING SYSTEM
7-5
26 inch width radiator. See specifications for applica- tion.
(4) Remove upper and lower radiator hoses (using pliers C-3250).
( 5 ) Remove shroud attaching screws, separate shroud from radiator, position shroud rearward on engine for maximum clearance.
(6) Remove radiator attaching screws.
(7) Radiator can now be lifted free from engine compartment. Care should be taken not to damage radiator cooling fins or water tubes during removal.
Fan damage should always be avoided. fnstallation
(1) Slide radiator down into position behind radiator support and install attaching screws.
(2) Install fan shroud (if so equipped), connect hoses, and connect transmission oil cooler lines, if so equipped.
(3) Fill cooling system to 1-1/4“ below filler neck seat with water and rust inhibitor or water and anti- freeze, as required. After warm-up, re-check coolant level.
(4) On vehicles with automatic transmission, meas- ure transmission oil level after warm-up and add oil as required.
Cleaning
(1) Drain cooling system and refill with clean soft water and a reliable cooling system cleaner.
(2) Operate engine according to directions on
Cleaner label.
(3) After cleaning operation, flush entire cooling system until water runs clean.
(4) If vehicle is operated in areas where protection from freezing is not required, and vehicle is not equipped with air conditioning, refill cooling system with clean soft water and a high quality corrosion in- hibitor, such as Chrysler Rust Resistor, Part Number
2421778.
(5) If vehicle is equipped with air conditioning the cooling system must contain anti-freeze all year round. This is necessary because in the reheat-cycle system used on all vehicles, except Dart, cold refrig erated air passes through the heater core. Anti-freeze is necessary to prevent the heater core from freezing in hot weather when the air conditioner is being used.
TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER
The transmission oil cooler is located in the bottom radiator tank (water cooled), which is an integral part of the radiator.
Some models are equipped with an auxiliary oil cooler (air cooled) mounted ahead of the radiator and is connected in series with the standard transmission oil cooler (Fig. 4).
In case of a leak, engine coolant may become mixed with transmission fluid, also, transmission fluid may enter cooling system. Both cooling system and trans- mission should be inspected in event cooler is leaking.
Testing Oil Cooler for Leaks
(1) Disconnect both oil cooler lines at radiator.
(2) Connect a pressure gauge to one cooler con- nection and a shut off valve to the other. Close the valve.
(3) Connect a source of air pressure to the valve.
(4) Coat all fittings with oil.
(5) Open the test valve and apply (up to 100 psi) air pressure.
Oil
bubbles will identify any fitting joint leaks. Repair all joint leaks.
(6) Close the valve. Gauge reading will then drop if cooler is leaking.
Repairing Oil Cooler
The transmission auxiliary oil cooler being all alu- minum can be repaired by a local reliable radiator service having the equipment for alumibrazing or heliarc.
(1) Remove radiator from vehicle.
(2) Remove radiator bottom tank.
(3) Melt the soft solder holding the cooler to the tank.
(4) Remove the stamped retainer nuts holding the cooler fittings to the bottom tank and remove the cooler.
( 5 ) Install a new cooler or repair the old cooler with silver solder and reinstall as follows:
(6) Position oil cooler in bottom tank and install the stamped retainer nuts on oil cooler fittings.
(7) Use soft solder to secure the cooler in the tank.
(8) Attach bottom tank to radiator using soft solder.
(9) Install radiator as described in Paragraph
“Radiator”.
(10) Fill cooling system and test for leaks.
If the transmission operates properly after repair- ing the leak, drain the transmission and torque con- verter while hot, remove the transmission oil pan and inspect for sludge, rust, dirty or plugged inlet filter. If none of these conditions are found, recon- ditioning may not be necessary. Reassemble, using
Transmission Fluid AQ-ATF-2848A.
REVERSE FLUSHING THE COOLING SYSTEM
Reverse flushing of the cooling system is the forc- ing of water through the cooling system, using air pressure in a direction opposite to that of the normal flow of water.
Flushing Cylinder Block
(1) Drain radiator and remove hoses at radiator.
MyMopar.com
7-6 COOLING
SYSTEM
0
Fig. 4-Oil Flow-Transmission Coolers- Hem; Automatic
(2) Remove thermostat and reinstall thermostat housing.
(3) Install Tool C-3514, or other suitable flushing gun to inlet hose.
(4) Connect water hose of gun to a pressure water source and air hose of gun to a pressure air source.
(5) Turn on water, and when cylinder block is filled, turn on air (up to 20 psi) in short blasts.
(6) Allow cylinder block to fill between blasts of air.
(7) Continue this procedure until water runs clean.
Test thermostat and if satisfactory, reinstall: other- wise, replace using a new housing gasket.
(8) Fill cooling system to 1-1/4 inches below filler neck, using soft water and rust resistor, anti-freeze, depending on season or if equipped with air condi- tioning.
(9) Engine should be operated until temperature gauge indicates normal operating temperature, then, continue an additional five minutes to release any air trapped in system.
(10) Check for leaks and coolant level; correct as necessary.
Reverse Flushing Radiator
(1) Drain cooling system and remove hoses engine. from
(2) Install Tool (2-3514, or gun in radiator lower outlet. other suitable flushing
(3) Fill radiator and turn on air in short blasts.
CAUTION: Internal radiator pressure must not ex- ceed 20 psi, as damage to radiator may result.
(4) Continue this procedure until water runs clean.
I t is a good policy to reverse flush heater core any time the radiator i s reverse flushed.
(5) Fill cooling system to 1-1/4 inches below filler neck, using soft water and rust resistor, anti-freeze, depending on season tioning. or if equipped with air condi-
(6) Engine should be operated until temperature gauge indicates normal operating temperature, then, continue an additional five minutes to release any air trapped in system.
(7) Check for leaks and coolant level; correct as necessary.
THERMOSTAT
The thermostat is actuated by a pellet containing a copper-impregnated wax, as shown in (Fig. 5). the temperature of
As
the pellet increases, the wax ex- pands and opens the valve. A 190" thermostat is standard equipment.* The use of 160° thermostat or
*170 Cubic Inch Engine has a 200" thermostat.
MyMopar.com
0
COOLING SYSTEM
7-7 or below.
EIGHT CVLINDER SIX CYfiNDER
Fig. 5-Thermostats alcohol type anti-freeze is not recommended.
If the thermostat does not close completely when cold, the engine will warm up slowly or not at all, and heater performance will also be impaired. Poor heater performance may also be due to valve open- ing at too low a temperature. ing temperature cause overheating. or
Too
a valve that will
NU348 high a valve open- not open can
Removal
(1) Drain cooling system down to thermostat level
:ET
NH186A VENT
Fig. &-Radiator Pressure Cap pellet end is toward engine and attach with bolts through thermostat housing.
(2) If removed, reinstall or replace the upper hose.
(3) Fill cooling system to 1-1/4 filler neck with water and rust resistor or water and anti- freeze.
RADIATOR HOSES
The hoses are removed and installed using hose clamp pliers C-3250.
A hardened, cracked, swollen should be replaced. or restricted hose
The reinforcement spring inside the lower hose is necessary to prevent collapsing of the hose due to suction at medium or high engine speeds. If this spring is deformed, it should be replaced. housing.
(3) Remove thermostat housing bolts and remove thermostat and housing.
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
Testing Thermostat
(1) closes tightly. If valve does not close completely due to dirt, sand or other foreign material, carefully clean the sealing edge making sure the sealing edge is not damaged. If valve does not close tightly when clean, install a new thermostat.
Radiators are equipped with a 16 psi cap, as stand- ard equipment (Fig. 6).
WARNING: When removing pressure cap, turn coun- terclockwise to stop, permitting built-up pressure to escape through overflow tube. This will prevent hot water from spraying out of radiator filler opening. water so that pellet of thermostat is completely cov- ered. The pellet must not touch bottom container. or sides of stir it continuously (to in- sure uniform temperature) and check water tempera- ture with a thermometer at the point when a .001" feeler gauge can be inserted into valve opening. The feeler gauge should pass freely into the valve open- ing at a water temperature of 187" to 194°F. for a
190" thermostat and a water temperature of 197" to
204" for a 200" thermostat. If outside of this range, replace thermostat.
(4) 210°F for a 190" thermostat and 220" temperature for a
200" thermostat. The thermostat valve should be fully open at this temperature. If it is not, replace thermostat.
PRESSURE TESTING RADIATOR CAP
Select the short neoprene seal and metal adapter from the kit, Tool C-3499. the bottom of the instrument. Then attach either end of the short adapter to the instrument. Dip the pres- sure cap in water and apply cap to end of adapter.
Working the plunger, as shown in (Fig. 7) bring the pressure to 16 pounds on the gauge. If the pressure lnstalluiion
(1) Using a new gasket, position thermostat so
Fig. 7-Testing Pressure Cap
MyMopar.com
7-8
COOLING SYSTEM
0 cap fails to hold the pressure within a range of 14-17 pounds, replace the cap with a new tested cap.
The brass vent valve at the bottom of the cap should hang freely. If the rubber gasket has swollen and prevents the valve from hanging loosely, replace the cap. Do not use a replacement cap without this vent valve.
PRESSURE TESTING COOLING SYSTEM
(1) With engine not running, wipe the radiator filler neck sealing seat clean. The water level should be 1/2 inch below neck of radiator.
(2) Attach the Tester Tool C-3499 to the radiator, as shown in (Fig. 8) 15 pounds pressure. If the pressure drops inspect all points for external leaks.
(3) If there are no external leaks, after the gauge dial shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester, start engine and run the engine to operating temperature in order to open the thermostat and allow the coolant to expand. Reattach the tester and pump to 7 lbs. pressure while the engine is running. Race the en- gine, and if the needle on the dial fluctuates it indi- cates a combustion leak, usually a head gasket.
WARNING: Pressure builds up fast. Any excessive amount of pressure built up by continuous engine operation must be released to a safe pressure point.
NEVER PERMIT PRESSURE TO EXCEED 20 Ibs.
(4) the spark plugs on one bank and operate the engine on the opposite bank.
If the needle continues to fluctuate, it indicates a leak on the bank still in operation. If the needle ceases to fluctuate, the leak is in the bank, from which combustion has been released.
(5) If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate, race the engine a few times and if an abnormal amount
Fig. 8-Pressure Testing Cooling System of water emits from the exhaust system at the tail pipe, it may indicate a leak that can be a faulty head gasket, cracked engine block, or the cylinder head near the exhaust ports.
(6) If the above pressure test of the cooling sys- tem holds without fluctuation, then there is no leak, however, there may be internal leaks which can be determined by removing the oil dip-stick and if water globules appear intermixed with the oil it will indi- cate a serious internal leak in the engine. If there is an internal leak, the engine must be disassembled, the leak located and necessary new parts installed.
ENGINE WATER TEMPERATURE GAUGE
For Removal, Installation and Testing procedures of the water temperature sending and receiving units, refer to “Electrical” Group 8 “Gauges”.
PROPER BELT TENSION
ACCESSORY BELT DRIVES
Satisfactory performance of belt driven acces- sories (Fig. 9) depends on the maintenance of proper belt tension. There are two methods by which belt tensions can be properly established. “The Torque
Method” and “The Belt Deflection Method”. If the specified tensions are not maintained, belt slippage may cause engine overheating, lack of power steering assist, loss in air conditioning capacity, reduced belt life. To avoid any such adverse effects, the following service procedure should be followed: Adjust all belts to the specified “used belt” tension at new vehicle preparation. Any belt that has operated for a mini- mum for a half-hour is considered to be used. The new belt tension specification apply for all new belt replacements.
Torque Method
All belts can be adjusted to the specified tension by use of a torque wrench. The alternator belts are ad- justed by using a special Tool C-3841 and torque wrench Tool C-3005.
The special tool should be hooked at the heavily- ribbed section of the alternator rectifier end shield.
Other belts can also be tightened by torque wrench if the adjusting bracket has a square hole. To tighten belts by the torque method, loosen all mounting bolts and apply the specified torque to the accessory or idler. (See Specifications.) Tighten all mounting bolts while the torque is applied to the accessory. If it is not possible to use the torque wrench because clearance, use an extension. of
Belt
All
Deflection Method belts can also be adjusted by measuring the
MyMopar.com
0
COOLING SYSTEM 7-9
NK481
ROLLER ASSY. n deflection of the belt at the mid-point between two pulleys under a five-pound push or pull. A small spring scale can be used to establish the five-pound load. See Figure 9 for correct location at which to measure deflection.
This method should be used only when possible to use the torque method. To it is not adjust belts by the deflection method, loosen all mounting bolts and use a bar to apply tensions to the belts being careful not to damage the accessory. A 1/2 inch square drive hinge handle can be used if the acces- sory has a square hole. Tighten the mounting bolts and test the deflection. (See Specifications.) It may be necessary to repeat this procedure several times to establish the correct tension.
Fig. 9-Belt Deflection Location
MyMopar.com
7-1 0 SPEC I F I CAT1 0 N
S
&&
€9
OD
€9 w
€9
3
€9
€9 h cy
L?? b Z Z e t a m m \ cnl-iz
.-
. . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . .
I
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
. . . . i Q ) . . . . m . . . .
. . . .
L .
.
.
.
a , . . . .
. . .
. . .
. . .
. . .
. . .
. . . e : : : :
. . .
. . .
. .
: : : r : : :
. . .
.
. . .
. . .
. . .
. . .
. . .
. . .
. . .
. . .
.
.
. c . .
.
Q ) a
K
sa
oo\o
Z Z Z Z
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
2 : : : : m : : : :
.-
U
E-
3 a
0
MyMopar.com
0
SPECIFICATIONS 7-1 1 p l n l n l n l n
E
W a
U a
4 t; z
0
a
0
0
. . . . . . .
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
L : : : : : : : : a a
* . .
. . . . . .
. . . . . .
. .
. .
. - .
. e
C .
.
. .
.
.
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
. . . .
.-
L -
0
0
V
P
-
X
3
P
0
0
-
0
E m
U c m c l
.- s
.-
L
- n - m c z"
I
? z
MyMopar.com
7-12
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
0
BELT TENSION SPEC1
FI
TORQUE METHOD
TORQUE (FT.-LBS.) TO BE APPLIED TO COMPONENTS
~ ~~~ ~~
Engine
Displacement
Cubic inches
Used Beltt
318
170 225 273 340
383
426 Hemi
440
70 POWER STEERING BRACKET..
SELF TIGHTENING
ALTERNATOR
With A/C
.................
Without A/C
..........
A / C IDLER BRACKET
FAN IDLER
..............
........
.................
45 45 50 50
15 15 40 40
15
25
15
25
40
45
40
45
45
40
-
40
170
~~
225
~~
New Belt
383
318 426 Hemi
273 340 440
80 80 85 85 120
20 20 55 55
20 20 55 55
35 35 65 65
70
60
-
65
DEFLECTION METHOD
Deflection (Inches to be applied at midpoint of belt segment under
5
Ib. load4See Figure 9)
Used Beltt
Engine
Displacement
Cubic Inches 170 225 273
383
318 426 Hem
340 440
POWER STEERING
FAN BELT IDLER
A/C IDLER
ALTER NATO
.................
R
Without A/C
With A/C
..........
...........
..............
5/32" 5/32" 5/32" 5/32" 5/32''
- -
118"
- -
3/32"
1/8" 3/16" 3/16"
-
9/32" 9/32" 3/16" 3/16" 3/16"
-
9/32" 31 16" 31 16" 9/32"
New Bolt
170 225 273
383
318426 Hemi
340 440
3/32" 3/32" 3/32" 3/32" 3/32"
-
-
-
- 1/16"
3/32" 3/32" 118" 1/8"
-
3/16" 3/16" 118" 1/8" 3/32"
3/16" 3/16" 118" 118" 3/16" t Any belt that has operated for a minimum of a half-hour is considered to be used.
CONVERSION TABLE
U. S. Quart
..................
12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
Imperial Quart
..............
10 10-314 11-314 12-112 13-114 14-114 15 15-3/4
TIGHTENING REFERENCE
Inch
Pounds
Water Pump Bolts
.................................
Fan Attaching Bolts
...............................
Thermostat Housing Bolts
..........................
Shroud Mounting Bolts
.............................
Radiator Mounting Bolts
Drain Cock
...........................
........................................
Oil Cooler Fittings-To Radiator
Lines to Fittings
....................
.........................
Lines to Auxiliary Cooler
Lines to Connector
......................
-
-
12
75
95
150
110
85
.................
85
50
Foot
Pounds
30
1518
30
Thread
Size
-
8-32
/
1
4-20
/ 4-20
MyMopar.com
0
G R O U P
8
ELECTRICAL
CONTENTS
Page
ALTERNATOR AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR 23
BATTERY
.............................
ELECTRIC WINDOW LIFT
EXTERIOR LIGHTING
EMERGENCY FLASHER
HEADLIGHTS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
83
..................
57
..............
1
66
.......................
57
TURN SIGNALS
HORNS
....................
64
..............................
66
IGNITION SYSTEM
....................
38
INSTRUMENT PANELS
SPECIFICATIONS
STARTING MOTORS
................
......................
TAIL GATE WINDOW LIFT
TOP LIFT (CONVERTIBLE TOP)
Page
67
86
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
84
. . . . . . . . .
85
WINDSHIELD WIPER SYSTEM
WINDSHIELD WASHERS
WIRING DIAGRAMS
..........
76
...............
81
...................
96
BATTERY
INDEX
Adjustment of Acid Gravity
Battery Visual Inspection
Charging the Battery
....................
......................
..........................
Page
3
1
4
High Rate Discharge Test
Specifications of Battery Capacity
.................................
Specific Gravity Test
Page
....
4
86
..........................
1
BATTERY VISUAL INSPECTION
SERVICE PROCEDURES
(1) Protect paint finish with fender covers.
(2) Disconnect battery cables at battery.
(3) Remove battery hold-down clamp and remove battery from vehicle.
(4) Inspect battery carrier and fender side panel for damage caused by loss of acid from battery.
(5) Clean top of battery with a solution of clean warm water and baking soda. Scrub areas with a stiff bristle brush being careful not to scatter corrosion residue. Finally wipe off with a cloth moistened with ammonia or baking soda in water.
CAUTION: Keep cleaning solution out of battery cells to eliminate weakening the electrolyte.
(6) Replace damaged or frayed cables.
(7) Clean battery terminals and inside surfaces of clamp terminals with Cleaning Tool MX-75.
(8) Examine battery case and cover for cracks.
(9) Install battery.
(10) Tighten battery hold-down screw nuts to 3 foot-pounds. Observe polarity of battery terminals to be sure the battery is not reversed.
(11) Connect cable clamps to battery posts and tighten securely. Coat all connections with light min- eral grease or petrolatum after tightening.
(12) If electrolyte level is low, fill to recommended level with mineral-free water.
SPECIFIC GRAVITY TEST
A hydrometer Tool 40-B used to measure specfic gravity of electrolyte in battery cells. This gives an indication of how much unused sulphuric acid re- mains in the solution.
A hydrometer should be graduated to read from
1.160 to 1.320, in graduations of .005 specific gravity.
Graduated markings should be not less than 1/16 inch apart and accurate to within .002 specific gravity.
Graduated portion of stem should be about two inches long. Clearance between float and glass barrel, at smallest diameter, should be a minimum of 1/8” around all sides and barrel must be clean.
Liquid level of battery cell should be at normal height and electrolyte should be thoroughly mixed with any battery water which may have just been added by charging battery before taking hydrometer readings. See “Adjustment of Acid Gravity.”
In reading a hydrometer, the gauge barrel must be held vertically and just right amount of fluid be drawn up into gauge barrel with pressure bulb fully expanded to lift float freely so it does not touch the sides, top or bottom of the barrel. Take a reading with eye on level with liquid level in the gauge barrel. DO
NOT TILT hydrometer.
Hydrometer floats are calibrated to indicate cor- rectly only at one fixed temperature.
Specific gravity of battery electrolyte strength or density varies not only with the quantity of the acid in solution but also with temperature. As temperature increases, the density of the electrolyte decreases, and specific gravity is reduced. As temperature drops, the density of the electrolyte increases and the spe- cific gravity increases.
Specific gravity variations caused by temperatures
MyMopar.com
8-2
ELECTRICAL-BATTERY
0 must be considered and corrected to 80°F. in the analysis of the battery, otherwise specific gravity readings will not give a
true
indication of
state
of charge.
Use a battery immersion type thermometer of the mercury-in-glass type, having a scale reading as high as 125” F. and designed for not over a 1-inch bulb immersion. A suitable dairy type thermometer may prove satisfactory for the purpose.
Draw electrolyte in and out of the hydrometer bar- rel several times to bring the temperature of the hy- drometer float to that of the acid in the cell and then measure the electrolyte temperature in the cell.
The temperature correction in specific gravity read- ing at 80” Fahrenheit is zero. Add .004 specific gravity points for every 10” degrees over 80”
F.
and subtract
.004 specific gravity points for every 10 degrees under 80° F. All readings must be corrected at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Refer to Figure 1 and examples one and two as follows:
Example 1-
Hydrometer Reading
Acid Temperature
Subtract Specific Gravity
Correct Specific Gravity is
1.260
20 degrees Fahrenheit
.024
1.236
Example 2-
Hydrometer Reading
Acid Temperature
Add Specific Gravity
Corrected Specific Gravity is
1.255
100 degrees Fahrenheit
.008
1.263
Tomparahwe
O f . k A d d r
A fully charged relatively new battery has a specif- ic gravity reading of 1.260 plus .015 minus .005.
Test Conclusions
(a) Battery specfic gravity is less than 1.220 bat- tery should be recharged. Make a high rate discharge test for capacity. If battery cells test and adjust gravity of all cells uniformly. Test voltage regulator setting. Thoroughly test the electrical sys- tem for short circuits, loose connections and corroded terminals.
(b) Cells show more than 25 points LO25 Specific
Gravity) VariationChort circuit low cell. Loss of electrolyte by leakage or excessive overcharge; try to recharge battery. See “Charging the Battery.” See
“Adjustment of Acid Gravity”.
(c) Battery specific gravity is above 1.220 and all cells are even. Battery state of charge may be satis- factory. Test by making “High Rate Discharge Test of
Battery Capacity”. Test voltage regulator setting and all electrical connections are clean and tight.
TEST BATTERY CONDITION AND STATE
CHARGE WITH CAD-TIP ANALYZER-Part
Number 1-369 (Fig. 2)
OF
(1) Check electrolyte level in all cells and add mineral-free water to proper level. When a car is running, the battery is receiving a charge from the alternator. This charge builds up a ”surface charge” in the battery that must be removed before an ac= curate test can be made.
(2) Remove the surface charge by turning the head- lights “on” for one minute before testing battery. If the battery has not been operating in a car for at least 8 hours prior to testing, Step 2 is not necessary.
IMPORTANT: Be sure that headlights, ignition and all accessories are ”of”’ during test.
(3) Remove battery filler plugs and place the RED probe in the POSITIVE (+) and the
BLACK
probe in the SECOND CELL. NOTE READING.
(There will be no meter reading if the probes are
Fig. I-Hydrometer Reading Correction Char,
NP165
Fig. 2-Testing Battery Cells with Cad-Tip Battery
Cell Analyzer
MyMopar.com
0 reversed.) A manual set index pointer is provided to assist in making cell comparisons. index pointer for reference.
Set the manual
(4) Move RED probe to SECOND CELL and BLACK probe to THIRD CELL; then move RED probe to
THIRD CELL and BLACK probe to FOURTH CELL, etc., until all cells have been tested. Note each cell reading so that CELL COMPARISONS CAN BE
MADE. Always store proba assembly in the space p r e vided in the meter case.
BATTERY-ELECTRICAL
8-3 balance of the readings are within the first four scale divisions-the battery is too low to make an accurate condition test-Recharge battery and retest.
CAUTION: Be certain to remove "surface charge" after recharge and before retesting. See "Step 2."
ADJUSTMENT OF ACID GRAVITY
TEST READING INTERPRETATIONS
(Fig. 3)
A-If the readings of any two cells vary FIVE scale divisions or more on the TOP scale-regardless of the colored sections in which they may fall on the bottom scale-The battery is at or near the point of failure and should be replaced.
&If all cells vary LESS than five scale divisions on the TOP scale and all are in the GREEN section of the Bottom Scale-The battery is in good condition and a safe state of charge.
%If all cells vary LESS than five scale divisions on the TOP scale but if any of the cells test in the
RED section of the BOTTOM scale-the battery is in good condition but is in a low state of charge--Re- charge at once to avoid a starting failure.
D-If ANY cell readings are in the "RECHARGE
AND RETEST" section of the TOP SCALE and the
Hydrometer floats usually are not calibrated below
1.160 specific gravity and cannot indicate the condi- tion of a battery in a very low state of charge. There- fore, it may be necessary to give the battery several hours charge before a hydrometer reading will indi- cate that the battery is taking a charge.
If the specific gravity of all cells are not within .015 points of specified value, corrected to 8OoF, at the end of a full charge, remove some of the electrolyte with a hydrometer and add a like amount of distilled water to reduce the gravity if too high, or add 1.400 Specific
Gravity acid to raise specific gravity, if too low. Con- tinue the charge so as to give the electrolyte a chance to mix and then read the gravity after another hour of charge to note the effect of the additions. Continue this adjusting procedure until gravity is brought to the desired value by charging for one hour after each adjustment .
Never adjust the specific gravity of any battery cell which does not gas freely on charge. Unless electro- lyte has been lost through spilling or leaking, it
RED BAND' I
REPLACEMENT
A B
.
C O N D I T O ~ .
RED
AND
RED BAND'
0 oo
C
Fig. 3-Battory State of Charge
MyMopar.com
8-4
ELECTRICAL-BATTERY
should not be necessary to add acid to a battery dur- ing its life. Acid should never be added unless one is certain that the cell will not come up to normal gravi- ty by continued charging. Always make the tempera- ture correction for hydrometer readings, as warm electrolyte will read low and this might be mistaken for failure of the battery to rise normally in gravity. It could also be falsely concluded that the battery would not take a full charge.
H I G H RATE DISCHARGE TEST
BATTERY CAPACITY
OF
Satisfactory capacity tests can be made only when battery equals or exceeds 1.220 specific gravity at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If the reading is below 1.220 the battery should be slow charged until fully charged in order to secure proper test results.
Test Procedure
(1) Turn control knob of Battery-Starter-Tester to
OFF position.
(2) Turn Voltmeter Selector Switch to the 16 volt position on test units so equipped.
(3) Connect test ammeter and voltmeter positive leads to battery positive terminal. Connect ammeter and voltmeter negative leads to battery negative ter- minal (Fig. 4). Voltmeter clips must contact battery posts or cable clamps and not ammeter lead clips.
(4) Turn control knob clockwise until ammeter reading is equal to three times ampere hour rating of battery.
(5) Maintain this load for 15 seconds; voltmeter should read 9.5 volts or more, which will indicate that the battery has good output capacity.
(6) After the 15 second test, turn Battery-Starter-
Tester control knob to the OFF position.
If the voltage in the “High Rate Discharge Test” was under 9.5 volt, the battery should be test charged to determine whether the battery can be satisfactorily charged.
Charging the Battery
Three Minute Charge T e d (Fig. 5 )
This test should not be used if battery temperaturn is below 60 degree F.
(1) Connect Battery Charger positive (+) lead to battery positive terminal and negative (-) lead to battery negative terminal.
IMPORTANT: Be sure of correct polarity when charg- ing batteries.
(2) Trip Battery Charger Power Switch to ON posi- tion. Turn timer switch past three minute mark then back to the three minute mark.
(3) Adjust Battery Charger Switch to highest pos- sible rate not exceeding 40 amperes.
(4) When timer switch cuts off at the end of 3 minutes, turn timer switch back to fast charge.
(5) Use the 16 volt scale of the Battery Starter
Tester and measure total voltage of battery posts while battery is being fast charged. If total voltage during charge exceeds 15.5 volts, battery is sulphated and should by cycled and slow-charged until specific gravity reaches 1.260 (See “Slow Charging”). A slow charge is preferable to bring the battery up to a full charge.
If specific gravity remains constant after testing battery at one hour intervals for three hours, battery is at its highest state of charge.
(6) Make another capacity test. If capacity test does not meet specifications, replace battery.
F a s t Charging the Battery (Fig. 6 )
If adequate time for a slow charge is not available, a high rate (FAST) charge is permissible and will give a sufficient charge in one hour enabling the battery and alternator to continue to carry the electrical load.
Connect Battery Charger positive (+) lead to bat- tery positive terminal and negative (-) lead to bat- tery negative terminal. If battery is not removed from
I II n
Fig. &High Rute Discharge Tesr Fig. S-three Minute Charge tesr
NY838B
MyMopar.com
0
STARTING MOTOR-ELECTRICAL a-5 vehicle, BE SURE ignition switch is turned off and a l l electrical accessories are turned off during charging.
CAUTION: The battery can be damaged beyond re. pair unless the following precautions are taken:
(1) Battery electrolyte temperature must NEVER exceed 125 degrees Fahrenheit.
If
this temperature is reached, battery should be cooled by reducing charging rate from the circuit. or remove battery
(2) As batteries approach full charge electrolyte in each cell will begin to gas sing must not be allowed. or bubble. Excessive gas-
(3) Do not fast charge longer than one hour.
If battery does not show a significant change in specific gravity after one hour of “FAST” charge, the slow charge method should be used.
Remember to use temperature correction when checking specific gravity. The manufacturers of high rate charging equipment generally outline the neces= sary precautions and some models have thermostatic temperature limiting and time limiting controls.
WARNING: When batteries are being charged an ex- plosive gas mixture forms beneath the cover of each cell. Do not smoke near batteries on charge o r which have recently been charged. Do not break live circuits at the terminals of the batteries on charge. A spark will occur where the live circuit is broken. Keep all open flames away from the battery.
Slow Charging Batteries
Many discharged batteries can be brought back to good condition by slow charging; especially batteries that are sulphated.
Battery should be tested with a hydrometer and a record kept of the readings taken at regular intervals throughout the charge. When a cell has a specific gravity reading that is 25 points (.025) or more below other cells, that cell is faulty and battery should be replaced.
Safe slow charging rates are determined by allow- ing one ampere per positive plate per cell. Proper slow charging rate would be 3 amperes for a 38 am- pere hour battery, 4 amperes for a 48 ampere hour
NY839A
Fig. 6-Fast Charging the Battery battery; 5 amperes for a 59 ampere hour battery; and
6 amperes for a 70 ampere hour battery.
The average length of time necessary to charge a battery by the slow charge method at normal rates is from 12 to 16 hours, however, when a battery contin- ues to show an increase in specific gravity, battery charge should be continued even if it takes 24 hours or more. Watch the temperature of batteries carefully and if the temperature of any one of them reaches
1 10°F., lower the charging rate.
Battery will be fully charged when it is gassing freely and when there is no further rise in specific gravity after three successive readings taken at hour- ly intervals. Make sure hydrometer readings are cor- rected for temperature.
The rate of charge for a sulphated battery should be no more than 1/2 the normal slow charge rate.
Many sulphated batteries can be brought back to a useful condition by slow charging at half the normal charging rate from 60 to 100 hours. This long charg- ing cycle is necessary to reconvert crystalline lead sulphate into active materials. When a battery takes a recharge, check for a cracked cell partition with a syringe t o provide air pressure; bubbles w i l l appear in an adjacent cell if a crack is present.
REDUCTION GEAR STARTER
Amperage Draw Test
..........................
Assembling the Starter
Bushings Replacement
Field Coils Replacement
........................
Brushes and Springs Replacement
........................
Cleaning the Starter Parts
Disassembling the Starter
General Information
Ground Circuit Test
Insulated Circuit Test
......................
......................
.......................
...........................
............................
..........................
Page
7
13
11
12
10
9
12
6
8
8
INDEX
Installing the Starter
Removing the Starter
Resistance Test
...............................
Service Diagnosis
..........................
..........................
............................
Servicing the Starter Clutch
Specifications
Unit
Testing the Starter (Bench Test)
Testing Armature
Testing Field Coils for Ground
Page
...............
16
8
8
6
13
.................................
86
................
8
..............................
11
11
MyMopar.com
8-6
ELECTRICAL-STARTING MOTOR
0
GENERAL INFORMATION
The starter has a 3.5 to 1 built into the Starter assembly, which is housed in an alu- minum die casting, Fig. 1. The starter utilizes a sole-
Condition
STARTER FAILS TO
OPERATE
STARTER FAILS AND
LIGHTS DIM
STARTER TURNS, BUT
ENGINE DOES NOT
ENGAGE
STARTER RELAY DOES
NOT CLOSE
RELAY OPERATES BUT
SOLENOID DOES NOT
SOLENOID PLUNGER
VIBRATES BACK AND
FORTH WHEN SWITCH
IS ENGAGED noid shift device, the housing of the solenoid tegral with the starter drive end housing. i s in-
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause Correction
Weak battery or dead cell in battery. (a) Test specific gravity. Recharge or re- place battery as required.
Ignition switch faulty. (b) Test and replace switch if necessary.
Loose or corroded battery cable ter- (c) Clean terminals and clamps, replace minals. if necessary. Apply a light film of pet- rolatum to terminals after tightening.
Open circuit, wire between the igni- (d) Inspect and test all the wiring. tion-starter switch and ignition ter- minal on starter relay.
Starter relay defective.
Faulty starter.
Armature shaft sheared.
Open solenoid pull-in wire.
(e) Test relay and replace
(f) Test and repair as necessary.
(g) Test and repair. if necessary.
(h) Test and replace solenoid sa ry. if neces-
Weak battery or dead cell in battery. (a) Test for specified gravity. Recharge or replace battery as required.
Loose or corroded battery cable ter- (b) Clean terminals and clamps, replace minals. if necessary. Apply a light film of pet-
Internal ground in windings.
Grounded starter fields. rolatum to terminals after tightening.
(c) Test and repair starter.
(d) Test and repair starter.
Armature rubbing on pole shoes. (e) Test and repair starter.
Starter clutch slipping.
Broken clutch housing.
(a) Replace clutch unit.
Pinion shaft rusted, dirty or dry, due (c) Clean, test and lubricate. to lack of lubrication.
Engine basic timing wrong.
(b) Test and repair starter.
Broken teeth on engine ring gear.
(d) Check engine basic timing and condi- tion of distributor rotor and cap.
(e) Replace ring gear. Inspect teeth on starter clutch pinion.
Batttery discharged.
Faulty wiring. transmission faulty.
(d) Starter relay faulty.
(a) Recharge or replace battery.
(b) Test for open circuit, wire between starter relay ground terminal post and neutral starter switch (automatic transmission only). Also test for open circuit; wire between ignition-sta rter switch and ignition terminal and start-
. . er relay.
(c) Neutral starter switch on automatic (c) Test and redace the switch sa ry.
(d) Test and replace if if neces- necessary.
(a) Faulty wiring. (a) Test for open circuit wire between starter-relay solenoid terminal and solenoid terminal post.
(b) Faulty solenoid switch or connections. (b) Test for loose terminal connections between solenoid and starter field.
(c) Solenoid switch contacts corroded. (c) Test and replace solenoid if neces- sa ry.
(d) Broken lead or a loose soldered con- (d) Test and replace solenoid if neces- nection inside solenoid switch (brush holder plate). sary.
(a) Battery low.
(b) Faulty wiring.
(a) Test for specific gravity
Replace or recharge battery.
(b) Test for loose connections at relay, ign i of battery. rter switch and solenoid.
MyMopar.com
0
START1
NG
MOTOR-ELECTRICAL
8-7
Condition Possible Cause Correction
Lead or connections broken inside (c) solenoid switch cover (brush holder plate) or open hold-in wiring.
Test and replace solenoid i f neces- sa ry.
Check for corrosion on solenoid con- (d) tacts.
Test and clean the contacts.
STARTER OPERATES
BUT WILL NOT
(a)
DISENGAGE WHEN
I G N IT1 ON STARTER
SWITCH
(b)
IS RELEASED (c)
Broken solenoid plunger spring or (a) spring out of position.
Faulty ignition-starter switch.
Solenoid contact switch plunger stuck in solenoid.
Insufficient clearance between wind- (d) ing leads to solenoid terminal and
Test and repair.
(b)
(c)
Test and replace the switch sary. if neces-
Remove contact switch plunger, clean of a l l dirt, apply a film
10 oil on plunger, wipe
Test and repair. off excess. wipe of SAE main contactor in solenoid.
Faulty relay. (e) Test and replace relay if necessary.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
AMPERAGE DRAW TEST (with Starter Tester)
Check battery electrolyte gravity with a reliable hydrometer. Gravity should be not less than 1.220
(temperature corrected). Or see that battery passes the High Rate Discharge Test shown in the “Battery” section of this manual.
Turn Battery-Starter Tester CONTROL KNOB to
“OFF” position.
Turn voltmeter Selector Switch to 16 Volt position.
Connect heavy Positive ammeter lead (Red) to Positive battery terminal. Connect heavy Negative ammeter lead (Black) to Negative battery terminal.
Connect Positive voltmeter lead (Red) to Positive battery terminal. Connect Negative voltmeter lead
(Black) to Negative battery terminal.
SLEEVE
VAPOR BARRIER
\
\
.010-.045 END PLAY
Fig. I-Starter Cross Section
ND219C
MyMopar.com
&8
ELECTRICAL-STARTI N G MOT0 R
DISCONNECT ignition primary lead from ignition ballast resistor, or primary wire from either side of coil, to prevent engine from starting.
Crank engine with a remote control starter switch and observe Exact reading on Voltmeter. Stop crank- ing engine. Without cranking engine, turn tester
CONTROL KNOB clockwise until voltmeter reads
Exactly the same as when engine was being cranked with the remote control starter switch. Ammeter now indicates starter amperage draw. Check specifica- tions. Engine should be up to operating temperature.
Extremely heavy oil or a tight engine will increase starter amperage draw.
INSULATED CIRCUIT TEST
~~
RESISTANCE TEST
cific gravity should be 1.220 or above. terminal post. Connect an 0 to 300 scale ammeter be- tween disconnected lead and battery terminal post.
(3) Connect a test voltmeter with 10 volt scale divi- sion between battery positive post and starter switch terminal at starter solenoid.
(4) Crank engine and observe reading on voltmeter and ammeter. Voltage should not exceed .3 volt. A voltage reading that exceeds .3 volt indicates there is high resistance caused from loose circuit connections, a faulty cable, burned starter relay or burned sole- noid switch contacts. A current that is high and is combined with slow cranking speed, indicates starter should be removed and repaired.
GROUND CIRCUIT TEST
(1) Connect test voltmeter positive lead to starter housing and voltmeter negative lead to battery nega- tive post.
(1) Test battery electrolyte specific gravity. Spe- cific gravity should be 1.220 or above. If battery spe- cific gravity is below 1.220, recharge battery to full charge before proceeding with test.
(2) Turn voltmeter selector switch to 4 volt posi- tion.
(3) Disconnect ignition coil secondary cable.
(4) Connect voltmeter positive lead to battery posi- tive post and voltmeter negative lead to solenoid con- nector which connects to the starter field coils.
The voltmeter will read off scale to the right until starter is actuated.
(5) Connect remote control switch to battery and solenoid terminal of starter relay.
(6) Crank engine with a remote starter control starter switch and observe voltmeter reading. Volt- meter reading should not exceed .3 volt. A voltmeter reading .3 volt or less indicates voltage drop is normal in cables, starter relay switch solenoid switch and connections between battery and starter motor. See
“Starter Ground Circuit Test.”
If voltmeter reading is more than .3 volt, it indi- cates high resistance in starter insulated circuit.
Make following tests to isolate point of excessive voltage loss:
(a) Remove voltmeter lead from solenoid connector and connect to the following points, repeating test at each connection. Starter terminal of solenoid, battery terminal of solenoid, battery cable terminal at sole- noid, starter relay and cable clamp at the battery.
(b) A small change will occur each time a normal portion of the circuit is removed from test. A def- inite change in the voltmeter readipg indicates that the last part eliminated in test is at fault.
Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows:
Battery insulated cable
Solenoid switch
Each connection
.2 volt
.1 volt
.o volt
Replace faulty cables. Clean and tighten all con- nections. switch and observe voltmeter reading. Voltmeter reading should not exceed .2 volt. A reading of .2 or less indicates the resistance of the ground cable and connections is normal. If voltmeter reading is more than .2 volt, it indicates excessive voltage loss in starter ground circuit. Make the following tests to iso- late point of excessive voltage loss. Repeating test at each connection.
(a) Starter drive housing.
(b) Cable terminal at engine.
(c)
A
Cable clamp at battery. small change will occur each time a normal por- tion of circuit is removed from the test. A definite change in voltmeter reading indicates that last part eliminated in the test is at fault.
Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows:
Battery ground cable .2
Engine ground circuit . l volt
Each connection .O volt
REMOVING THE STARTER
(2) Remove cable at starter.
(3) Disconnect solenoid lead wires at solenoid ter- minals.
(4) Remove one stud nut and one bolt attaching starter to flywheel housing, slide automatic transmis- sion oil cooler tube bracket off the stud (if so equipped) and remove the starter.
TESTING THE STARTER (Bench Test)
Free
Running
Test
(1) Place starter in a vise and connect a fully
MyMopar.com
C charged, 12 volt battery to starter as follows:
(a) Connect a test ammeter (100 a carbon pile rheostat in series with battery positive post and starter terminal.
(b) Connect a voltmeter (15 volt scale) starter. across
(c) Rotate carbon pile to full-resistance position.
(d) Connect battery cable from battery negative post to starter frame.
(e) Adjust the rheostat until battery voltage shown on voltmeter reads 11 volts. Amperage draw should be as shown in specifications.
Locked-Resistance Test
(1)
(2) Follow instructions of test equipment manufac- turers and test starter against following specifications.
With applied battery voltage adjusted to 4 volts.
Amperage draw should be as shown in specifications.
DISASSEMBLING THE STARTER
(1) Place the starter gear housing in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Use the vise as support fixture only.
DO NOT clamp.
(2) Remove two through bolts and starter end head assembly. housing and starter frame and field assembly. Re- move steel and fiber thrust washer. The wire of shunt field coil is wrapped on the brush terminal. One set of brushes are connected to this terminal. The other pair of brushes i s attached to the series field coils by means of a terminal screw. Carefully pull frame and field assembly up just enough to expose terminal screw and wire wrap connection of shunt field at brush terminal. Place two wood blocks between starter frame and starter gear housing to facilitate removal
STARTING MOTOR-ELECTRICAL
-
SOLEI I O I D LEAD WIRE\
*
8 9
Fig. 3-Unwinding or Winding Solenoid Lead W i r e of terminal screw, Fig. 2.
(4) Support brush terminal by placing a finger be- hind the terminal and remove terminal screw.
(5) Unwrap shunt field coil lead from starter brush terminal. Starter brush holder plate with starter brush terminal, contact and brushes is serviced as an at- sembly.
(6) Remove all old sealer at brush holder plate and gear housing.
(7) Unwrap solenoid lead wire and unwind wire from starter brush terminal (Fig. 3).
(8) Remove screw attaching brush holder plate to starter gear housing (Fig. 4).
(9) Remove nut (1 wrench), steel washer and insulating washer from solenoid terminal. holder plate with brushes as an assembly. well (Fig. 5). from starter battery terminal.
&
;ASSEMBLY
\
BRUSH
TERMINAL
1 i ND 198
Fig. 2-Removing or Installing Terminal Screw
I
I t K M l N A L m
L d
I h
OLENOID
Fig. 4-Removing or Installing Brush Holder
Plate Screw
MyMopar.com
8-10
ELECTRICAL-STARTI N G MOTOR
‘,
-
;v
SOLENOID LEAD-,
~
3 ==d
L f l l
CONTACT WASH
VAPOR BARRIER
Fig. 5-Solenoid Assembly plate. solenoid. solenoid housing moving core.
(16) 6). pinion shaft (Fig. 7).
NK73A
HRUsT
VASHERS
ND209
Fig. 8-Removing or Installing Pinion Shaft
Retainer Ring
CAUTION: Retainer is under tension and a cloth should be placed over the retainer to prevent it from springing away after removal.
(Fig. 8). Do not spread retainer ring any greater than outside diameter of pinion shaft otherwise lock ring can be damaged.
9) and remove retainer ring and thrust washers, clutch and pinion assembly, with the two shifter fork nylon actuators as an assembly (Fig. 10).
Fig. 6-Removing Dust Cover moving core (Fig. 11).
(22) and remove clutch shifting fork assembly.
CLEANING THE STARTER PARTS
Do not immerse parts in cleaning solvent. Im- mersing field frame and coil assembly and/or arma- ture will damage insulation. Wipe these parts with a clean cloth only.
(2) Do not immerse clutch unit in cleaning solvent.
The clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and solvent will wash lubricant from the clutch.
-4
Fig. 7-Removing the Driven Gear Snap Ring Fig. 940moving Pinion S h d
MyMopar.com
c\
STARTING MOTOR-ELECTRICAL
SHIFTING FORK
PIN
8-11
Fig. IO-Removing or Installing Clutch Assembly
(3) The starter-clutch outer housing and pinion gear may be cleaned With a cloth moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a clean dry cloth.
(4) Clean all corrosion from solenoid assembly and inside of solenoid housing. These metal parts are part of the solenoid hold-in ground circuit and must be clean.
(5) Clean terminal contacts and contactor with crocus cloth.
(6) Thoroughly clean outside area of brush plate to remove all oil and dirt.
SHIFTING FORK% ND213A
3-
Fig. 12-Removing or Installing Shifting Fork Pin wire units, when removing and installing brushes.
(3) Measure brush spring tension with a spring scale hooked under the spring near the end. Pull scale on a line parallel to the edge of brush and take a reading just as spring end leaves the brush. Spring tension should be 32 to 36 ounces. Replace springs that do not meet specifications.
TESTING ARMATURE
BRUSHES AND SPRINGS REPLACEMENT
(1) Brushes that are worn more than 1/2 the length of new brushes, or are oil-soaked, should be replaced.
(2) When resoldering the shunt field and solenoid lead, make a strong low resistance connection using a high temperature solder and resin flux. Do not use acid or acid core solder. Do not break the shunt field
Testing Armature for
Short
Circuit
Place armature in growler and hold a thin steel blade parallel to the core and just above it, while slowly rotating armature in growler. A shorted m a - ture will cause blade to vibrate and be attracted to the core. Replace armature if shorted.
Testing Armature for Ground
Contact armature shaft and each of the commuta- tor riser bars with a pair of test lamp test prods. If lamp lights, it indicates a grounded armature. Replace grounded armature.
Testing
Commutator
Run-Out,
Refacing and
Undercufting
Place armature in pair of “V” block and measure runout with dial indicator. Measure both shaft and commutator. A bent shaft requires replacement of armature. When commutator runout exceeds .003 inch, commutator should be refaced. Remove only a sufficient amount of metal to provide a smooth, even surface.
TESTING FIELD COILS
FOR
GROUND
(1) Remove field frame assembly from starter.
(2) Carefully drill out the rivet attaching the series field coil ground lead and shunt field coil lead to field frame. fig. 1 1 4 o r n o v h g or Indulling Moving Core
MyMopar.com
8-12
ELECTRICALSTARTING MOTOR
0
U U
NK74
REMOVING INSTALLING
Fig. 13-Removing and installing Pinion Housing
End Bushing
(3) Insulate field coil leads from field frame.
(4) Test for ground using
Touch one probe of a 110 volt test lamp. test lamp to series field coil lead and other probe to field frame. Lamp should not light.
Repeat the procedure for shunt field coil.
If lamp lights, it indicates that field coils grounded and require replacement. are
REMOVING EUSHING INSTALLINO
Fig. 14-Removhg and installing Pinion Housing
Drive Shaft Bushing
FIELD COILS REPLACEMENT
A pole shoe impact screwdriver Tool C-3475 should be used to remove and install field coils to prevent damage to pole shoe screws and for proper tightening.
Pole shoes that are loose and not properly seated may cause armature core to rub on pole shoes. Make sure area between the leads and starter frame is clean.
Peen new rivet securely to insure a good electrical contact.
BUSHINGS REPLACEMENT
Inspect armature shaft bearing, pinion shaft faces and bushings for wear. Try the bushings sur- for
-9-3562
I
INSTALLING
REMOVING
Fig. 15-Removing and Installing Pinion Housing Armatun Shaft Bushing iING
NK76
MyMopar.com
0
HOU\SING
\
START1 NG MOTOR-ELECTRICAL
CORE
\
S P R Y SoLENolD \
VAPOR BARRIER
CONTACT STUD
8-1 3 rd
CONTACT STUD
\
WASHER
\
SCREW
WASHER
POL& (4)
\
I
SCREW
INSULATOR
/
SCREW
/
FR!ME WA&ER
WASHER
(FIBER)
BOLT
(STEEL) (STEEL) ND543E
Fig. 16-Starter (Exploded Wow) wear by inserting the shafts and test for side play.
Pre-sized starting motor bushings are available as service bushings.-Use Tool C-3944 to remove old bush-
- No burnishing or reaming is required to fit pre-sized bushings.
The C-3944 service all of the gear reduction motor bushings with the exception of the end head bushing. End head bushing and end head are serviced as an assembly.
Remove and install bushings, (Figs. 13, 14 and 15).
SERVICING THE STARTER CLUTCH UNIT
Do not immerse starter clutch unit in a cleaning solvent. Starter clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and a solvent will wash lubricant from the clutch.
The starter clutch outer housing and pinion gear may be cleaned with a cloth moistened with a clean- ing solvent and wiped dry with a clean dry cloth.
Rotate the pinion. Pinion gear should rotate smoothly in one direction (not necessarily easily), but should not rotate in opposite direction. If starter clutch unit does not function properly, or pinion is worn, chipped or burred, replace starter clutch unit.
ASSEMBLING THE STARTER (Fig. 16)
The shifter fork consists of two spring steel plates assembled with two rivets. There should be approxi- mately 1/16 inch side movement as shown jn Figure
17 to insure proper pinion gear engagement. Lubri- cate between the plates sparingly with SAE 10 engine oil.
(1) Position shifter fork in drive housing and install shifting fork retainer pin. One tip of pin should be straight, other tip should be bent at a 15 degree angle away from the housing. The fork and retainer pin should operate freely after bending tip of pin.
(2) hstall solenoid moving core and engage shifting fork (Fig. 11). friction washer and drive gear.
(4) Install clutch and pinion assembly, thrust washer, retaining ring and thrust washer (Fig. 10).
MyMopar.com
8-1 4 E
LECTR ICAL-STARTI
N G
5132”-3/16”
-.,EWAYS
MOVEMENT
ND214
Fig. 17-Shifter Fork Assembly
(5) Complete installation of pinion shaft engaging shifting fork with clutch actuators. Figure 18 shows correct relation of parts at assembly. The friction washer must be positioned on shoulder of splines of the pinion shaft before driven gear is positioned.
(6)
(7)
Install driven gear snap ring (Fig. 7).
Install pinion shaft retaining ring (Fig. 8).
(8) Bend the four (4) Tangs of coil retainer “up” to a measurement of 5/32” to 3/16” above surface of retainer (Fig. 19) to ensure higher compression and a more positive ground.
(9) Install starter solenoid return spring into bore of movable core.
(10) if removed over solenoid lead wires, inserting double wires of terminal stud into large hole (Fig. 5) and solenoid winding lead wire into the small hole. Inspect condition of starter sole- noid switch contacting washer, if top of washer is burned from arcing, disassemble contact switch plung- e r assembly and reverse the washer.
(11) Install solenoid contact plunger assembly into solenoid and reform double wires to allow for proper entry of terminal stud into brush holder with the double wires curved around the contactor.
CAUTION: The contactor must not touch the double
SHIFTING FORK
NK77
Fig. 1 9 4 h e c k i n g Height of Solenoid Coil Retoinor
Tangs wires when solenoid is energized after assembly i s completed (Fig. 5).
Make sure contact spring is positioned on the shaft of the solenoid contact plunger assembly. in brush holder, placing sealing washer under plain washer.
Inspect condition of the contacts in brush holder plate. If contacts are badly burned, replace brush holder with brushes and contacts as an assembly. holder (Fig. 20) and install solenoid stud, insulating washer, flat washer and nut. Use care when installing solenoid contact seal over tab on brush plate to pre- vent tearing the seal. terminal post as shown in Figure 21 and solder
se
curely with a high temperature resin core solder and resin flux.
(15) Carefully enter solenoid coil and brush plate
SOLENOID LEAD WIRE SOLENOID
I
TERMINAL
LUTCH ASSEMBLY
MOVING CORE
BRUSH HOLDER- fig. 18-Shifter Fork ond Clutch Arrongement
BATTERY TERMINAL
/SOLENOID
NK78
Fig. 20-Assembling Solenoid t o Brush Holder P l d o
MyMopar.com
0
BRUSH TERMINAL POST
SOLENOID
\
\
\i
START1
N
G
M
OTO R-E LECTR
I 8-1 5
TERMINAL POST
Fig. 2 1 -Soldering Solenoid Winding Lead To
Brush Terminal assembly into bore of gear housing and position brush plate assembly into starter gear housing. Align tongue of ground terminal with notch in brush holder (Fig.
22). install attaching screw (Fig. 3). Tighten screw to 10-15 inch-pounds. Make sure the insulating tape is in posi- tion (Fig. 3). as shown in Figure 21. This will hold brushes out and facilitate proper installation of armature.
(18) On starters so equipped, solder shunt coil lead wire to starter brush terminal (Fig. 23).
(19) 2).
I
- e-&&@
SHUNT FIELD
COIL LEAD
Fig. 23-Soldering Shunt Coil Lead Wire gear housing and enter armature into field frame and starter gear housing (Fig. 24); carefully engaging splines of shaft with reduction gear by rotating arma- ture slightly to engage the splines.
(21) Install thrust washer (fiber) and washer (steel) on armature shaft. starter frame lockwashers and through bolts. Tighten through bolts securely. plate to field frame and gear housing mating joint.
Apply a bead of brush plate sealer Part NO. 2421847 around the four sides of the joint (Fig. 25).
CAUTION: Sealer must be flowed continuously to avoid gaps. After the bead has been flowed on, use a brush or small paddle moistened in mineral spirits to c
ND523A
Fig. 22-Installing Solenoid and Brush Holder into Gear Housing Fig. 24-Installing Starter Armature
MyMopar.com
&16
ELECTRICAL-STARTER
press adhesive into the joint. Do not get adhesive on the battery and/or solenoid terminals.
SEALING
0
WASHER SEALS
INSTALLING THE STARTER
(1) Before installing the starter, make sure starter and flywheel housing mounting surfaces are free of dirt and oil to insure a good electrical contact.
(2) Position starter to flywheel housing removable seal (if removed).
(3) Install the starter, washer and bolt, the auto- matic transmission oil cooler tube bracket (if so equipped) and washer and nut. When tightening at- taching bolt and nut be sure to hold the starter pulled away from the engine to insure proper alignment.
(4) Attach wire at solenoid switch terminal and cable to starter terminal.
Fig. 25-Sealing Brush Holder Plate
(5) Connect battery ground cable and test tion of the starter for proper engine cranking. opera-
STARTER
(Direct Drive)
INDEX
Adjusting Starter Drive Pinion Clearance
Amperage Draw Test
B us h i ngs-Se rvic
Cleaning the Starter Parts
Drive Gear Pinion Clearance-Adjusting
Field Coils-Replacement
Free Running Test
............................
Installing the Starter
Insulated Circuit Test
Removing the Starter
Replacement of i ng
..........................
Assembling the Starter
........................
Brushes and Springs Replacement
..........................
Disassembling the Starter
Drive Unit-Servicing
Brushes and Springs
Replacing Field Coils
Page
........
..............
.....................
......................
..........................
.........
......................
..........................
.........................
..........................
............
..........................
22
16
21
19
21
19
18
21
22
21
17
22
17
17
19
21
Service Diagnosis
Servicing Bushings
Servicing Drive Unit
Specifications
.............................
............................
...........................
.................................
Starter Ground Circuit Test
Starter Resistance Test
Starter Circuit Tests
Insulated Circuit Test
.....................
........................
........................
Starter Ground Circuit Test
Testing Armature
Testing Armature for Ground
..................
Testing Armature for Short Circuit
Testing Commutator Runout
Testing Field Coils for Ground
Page
...........
.................
.................
................
Testing Starting Motor (Bench Test)
............
6
21
21
87
17
17
17
17
20
20
20
20
17
SERVICE PROCEDURES
CHECK AMPERAGE DRAW TEST
(with Starter Tester)
Check battery electrolyte gravity with a reliable hydrometer. Gravity should be not less than 1.220
(temperature corrected). See that battery passes High
Rate Discharge Test shown in the “Battery” section of this manual.
Turn Battery-Starter Tester CONTROL KNOB to
Turn voltmeter Selector Switch to 16 Volt position.
Connect heavy Positive ammeter lead (Red) to Positive battery terminal. Connect heavy Negative ammeter lead (Black) to Negative battery terminal.
Connect Positive voltmeter lead (Red) to Positive battery terminal. Connect Negative voltmeter lead
(Black) to Negative battery terminal.
DISCONNECT ignition primary lead from ignition ballast resistor, or primary wire from either side of coil, to prevent engine from starting.
Crank engine with a remote control starter switch and observe Exact reading on Voltmeter. Stop crank- ing engine. Without cranking engine, turn tester
CONTROL KNOB clockwise until voltmeter reads
Exactly the same as when engine was being cranked with the remote control starter switch. Ammeter now indicates starter amperage draw. Check specifications.
Engine should be up to operating temperature. Ex- tremely heavy oil or a tight engine will increasa starter amperage draw.
MyMopar.com
cl
STARTER-ELECTRICAL
8-17
STARTER RESISTANCE TEST
(1) Test battery electrolyte specific gravity. Spe- cific gravity should be 1.220 or above.
(2) Disconnect positive battery lead from battery terminal post. Connect a 0 to 300 scale ammeter between disconnect lead and battery terminal post.
(3) Connect a test voltmeter with 10 volt scale divi- sion between battery positive post and starter switch terminal at starter solenoid.
(4) Crank engine and observe reading on voltmeter and ammeter. The voltage should not exceed .3 volt. A reading of voltage that exceeds .3 volt indicates there is high resistance caused from loose circuit connec- tions, a faulty cable, burned starter relay or solenoid switch contacts. A current that is high and is com- bined with slow cranking speed, indicates that starter should be removed and repaired.
STARTER INSULATED CIRCUIT TEST
(1) Test battery electrolyte specific gravity. Spe- cific gravity should be 1.220 or above.
(2) Turn Voltmeter Selector Switch to 4 volt posi- tion.
(3) Disconnect ignition coil secondary cable.
(4) Connect voltmeter positive lead to battery posi- tive post and voltmeter negative lead to solenoid con- nector which connects to starter field coils. The volt- meter will read off scale to the right until starter is actuated.
(5) Connect remote control switch to the battery and solenoid terminal of starter relay.
(6) Crank engine with a remote control starter switch and observe voltmeter reading. Voltmeter reading should not exceed .3 volt. A voltmeter reading of .3 volt or less indicates voltage drop is normal in the cables, starter relay switch, solenoid switch and connections between battery and starter is normal.
See “Starter Ground Circuit Test.”
If voltmeter reading is more than .3 volt, it indi- cates high resistance in the starter insulated circuit.
Make following tests to isolate point of excessive volt- age loss:
(a) Remove the voltmeter lead from the solenoid connector and connect to the following points, repeat- ing test at each connection. Starter terminal of sole- noid, battery terminal of solenoid, battery cable ter- minal at solenoid, starter relay and cable clamp at battery.
(b) A small change will occur each time a normal portion of the circuit is removed from the test. A definite change in voltmeter reading indicates that the last part eliminated in the test is at fault.
Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows:
Battery insulated cable .2 volt
Solenoid switch
Each connection
.1 volt
.o volt
Replace faulty cables. Clean and tighten all connec- tions.
Starter Ground Circuit Test
(1) Connect the voltmeter positive lead to starter housing and negative voltmeter lead to battery nega- tive post.
(2) Crank engine with a remote control starter switch and observe voltmeter reading. Voltmeter reading should not exceed .2 volt. A reading of .2 volt or less indicates voltage loss in ground cable and con- nections are normal. If voltmeter reading is more than .2 volt, it indicates excessive voltage loss in starter ground circuit. Make the following tests to iso- late point of excessive voltage loss, repeating each connection. test at
(a) Starter drive housing.
(b) Cable terminal at engine.
(c) Cable clamp at battery.
A small change will occur each time a normal por- tion of the circuit is removed from test. A definite change in voltmeter reading indicates the last part eliminated in the test is at fault.
Maximum allowable voltage loss is as follows:
Battery ground cable
.o volt
Engine ground circuit .2 volt
Each connection .1 volt
REMOVING THE STARTER
(1) Disconnect ground cable at battery.
(2) Remove starter cable at starter.
(3) Disconnect solenoid lead wire from solenoid.
(4) Remove bolts attaching starter to flywheel hous- ing and remove starter.
(Bench Test)
Free Running Test
(1) Place starter in a vise equipped with soft jaws and connect a fully-charged, 12 volt battery to starter as follows:
(2) Connect a test ammeter (100 amperes scale) and a carbon pile rheostat in series with battery positive post and starter terminal.
(3) Connect voltmeter (15 volt scale) across starter.
(4) Rotate carbon pile to full-resistance position.
( 5 ) Connect battery cable post to starter frame. from battery negative
(6) Adjust rheostat until battery voltage shown on voltmeter reads 11 volts.
(7) Current draw should be 78 amperes maximum at 3800 minimum rpm.
Locked Resistance Test
(1) Install starter in test bench.
(2) Follow instructions of test equipment manufac-
MyMopar.com
8-18
ELECTRICALSTARTER
SOLENOID,
0
turer
and test the locked-resistance of the starter as follows:
With applied battery voltage adjusted to 4 volts; current draw should be as shown in specifications.
DISASSEMBLING THE STARTER
(1) Refer to
Fig. 1 -Statter-Cross Section
Figure 1, remove through bolts and tap commutator end head from field frame.
(2) Remove thrust washers from armature shaft.
(3) Lift brush holder springs and remove brushes from brush holders.
(4) Remove brush plate (Fig. 2).
(5) Disconnect field coil leads at solenoid connector
(Fig. 3).
(6) Remove solenoid attaching screws and remove solenoid and boot assembly (Fig. 4).
(7) Drive out overrunning clutch shift fork pivot pin (Fig. 5).
(8) Remove drive end pinion housing and spacer washer. Replace the pinion housing assembly, if the rubber seal (Fig. 1) is damaged (units so equipped).
SERIES COIL
----
--l.
Fig. 2-Removing Brush Ring
Fig. 3-Field Coil Leads Disconnmeted
Solenoid Connector from
N B 2 0
MyMopar.com
0
STARTER-ELECTRICAL
8-19 and away from field frame (Fig. 7). Remove pole shoe screws with special pole shoe impact screwdriver,
To01 C-3475.
CLEANING THE STARTER PARTS
1
Fig. 4-Removing Starter Solenoid
(9) Note position of shifter fork on starter drive and remove shifter fork (Fig. 6).
(10) Slide overrunning clutch pinion gear toward commutator end of armature, drive stop retainer to- ward clutch pinion gear to expose snap ring and re- move snap ring.
(11) Slide overrunning clutch drive from armature shaft.
(12) If it is necessary to replace field coils, remove the ground brushes terminal attaching screw and raise the brushes with terminal and shunt wire up
Fig. 5-Removing Shifter Fork Pivot Pin
NB22 mersing the field frame and coil assembly and/or armature w i l l damage insulation. Wipe these parts with a cloth only.
(2) Do not immerse drive unit in cleaning solvent.
Drive clutch is pre-lubricated at the factory and sol- vent will wash lubrication from clutch.
(3) with a brush moistened with cleaning solvent and wiped dry with a cloth.
BRUSHES AND SPRINGS-REPLACEMENT
(1) Brushes that are worn more than 1/2 the length of new brush, or are oil-soaked, should be replaced.
Brushes and springs can be replaced after removing commutator end head and brush plate.
(2) Disengage brushes from brush holders and move brush plate. re-
(3) Disconnect series coil and shunt field coil ter- minal at solenoid connector (Fig. 3).
(4) Remove ground brush terminal screw and care- fully remove ground brush set to prevent breaking shunt field lead.
(5) field from old brush set to ensure as much length as possible. re- move old brushes. Use side cutters to break the weld by rolling the stranded wire off the terminal.
(7) .174 .184 series coil terminal 3/16 of an inch from top of terminal to cen- terline of hole (Fig. 7). (Use a number 16 drill.)
CAUTION: Do not damage the field coil during the drilling operation.
(8) Attach insulated brush set to series field termi- a i
,SHIFTER FORK
\ \
‘STOP RETAINER
S N A P R I N G
SPACER W A S H E R
Fig. &Removing Shift Fork
NK512A
Fig. 7-Brush Replacement
MyMopar.com
8-20 E
LECTRICALSTARTER
nal with flat washer and number 8 self-tapping screw.
(9) Attach shunt field lead to new ground brush set by making a loop around the terminal and soldering lead to the terminal with resin core solder.
(10) Attach ground brush terminal to field frame with attaching screw. Fold surplus shunt field lead back along the brush lead and secure with rubber insulating tape.
(11) Measure brush spring tension with a spring scale hooked under spring near brush end. pull scale on a line parallel to edge of brush and take a reading just as spring end leaves the brush. Spring tension should be 32 to 36 ounces. Replace springs that do not meet specifications. the retainers and disengaging the springs from tainer legs. re-
0
TESTING
THE
ARMATURE
Testing Armature for Short Circuit
Place armature in a growler (Fig. 8) and hold a thin steel blade parallel to the core and just above it, while slowly rotating armature in growler. A shorted armature will cause blade to vibrate and be attracted to the core. Replace shorted armature.
Fig. 9-Testing Armature for Ground
TESTING FIELD
COILS
FOR GROUND
(1) Remove through bolts and commutator end frame. re- move brush plate (Fig. 2).
(3) wires at solenoid connec- tor and separate field leads to make sure they do not touch solenoid connector (Fig. 3).
(4) Remove ground brushes attaching screw, and raise brushes with terminal and shunt wire up and away from field frame.
(5) Touch one probe of test lamp to series field coil lead and other probe to field frame (Fig. 10). Lamp should not light.
Testing Armature for Ground
Touch armature shaft and the end of each commn- tator bar with a pair of test lamp prods (Fig. 9). If lamp lights, it indicates a grounded armature. Replace grounded armature.
Testing Commutator Runout, Refacing
Place armature in a pair of “V” blocks and check runout with a dial indicator. Check both shaft and commutator. A bent shaft requires replacement of armature.
When commutator runout exceeds .003 inch, com- mutator should be refaced. Remove only a sufficient amount of metal to provide a smooth, even surface.
GROWLER other probe to field frame (Fig. 11).
If lamp lights in either test (5) or (6), field coils are grounded. If field coils are grounded, test each coil separately after unsoldering connector wires. Replace grounded field coils.
(7) Touch each of the brush holders with one test probe, while holding other test probe against brush
P
.
Fig. 8-Testing Armature for Short Fig. 104esting Sarias Coil for Oround
MyMopar.com
0
STARTER-ELECTRICAL
&21 ensure pole shoes are assembled in their original position.
SERVlCl N G BUSH I NGS
TEST
PROBES
SHUNT
LEAD
Fig. I I-resting Shunt Coil for Ground ring. Two brush holders that are 180 degrees apart should cause test lamp to light as they are intentional- ly grounded. The other two brush holders (Fig. 12) should not cause lamp to light when tested as they are insulated. If insulated brush holders cause lamp to light when tested, it indicates that brush holders on brush ring are grounded. Replace brush ring assem- bly if brush holders are grounded.
Inspect armature shaft bearing surfaces and bush- ings for wear by placing armature core in a vise equipped with soft jaws. Do not squeeze tightly. Try the commutator end frame, drive end frame, and armature support bushings for wear by placing them on shafts and checking for side play. Replace commu- tator end frame and bushing assembly if bushing is worn. Replace drive end bushing if worn. The bushing should be well soaked in SAE 30 engine oil before it is installed. New pre-sized bushings should be pressed into the housing until bushing is flush with inner side of housing to provide proper clearance. Use Tool C-
3944 to remove and install bushing.
SERVICING THE DRWE UNIT
Place drive unit on armature shaft and, while hold- ing armature, rotate the pinion. Drive pinion should rotate smoothly in one direction (not necessarily easily), but should not rotate in opposite direction. If drive unit does not function properly, or if pinion is worn or burred, replace drive unit.
REPLACING FIELD
COILS
ASSEMBLING THE STARTER
(Refer
to
Figs,
1
and 13)
A
pole shoe impact screwdriver Tool (2-3475 should be used to remove and install field coils to prevent damage to the pole shoe screws and for proper tightening.
Pole shoes that are loose and not properly seated may cause armature core to rub on pole shoes. This will decrease starter efficiency and damage armature core. Scribe a mark in the pole shoe and field frame to i
INSULATED BRUSH
HOLDERS
A
I fig. 12-T.rting Insulutd Brush Holder for Ground
(1) Lubricate armature shaft and splines with SAE
10-W oil or SAE 30 rust preventative oil.
(2) Install starter drive, stop collar (retainer), lock ring and spacer washer.
(3) Install shifter fork over starter drive spring re- tainer washer with narrow leg of fork toward the commutator (Fig. 6). This is important, if the fork is not properly positioned starter gear travel will be re- stricted causing a lockup in the clutch mechanism.
(4) Install drive end (pinion) housing on armature shaft, indexing shifting fork with slot in drive end housing.
(5) Install shifter fork pivot pin (Fig. 5).
(6) With clutch drive, shifter fork, and pinion hous- ing assembled to the armature, slide armature into field frame until pinion housing indexes with slot in field frame.
(7) 4).
Tighten bolts to 60-70 inch-pounds.
(8) Connect field coil leads at solenoid connector
(Fig. 3). Be sure terminals do not touch field frame.
(9) Install brush holder plate (Fig. 2) indexing tang of ring in hole of field frame.
(10) Position brushes in brush holders. Be sure field coil lead wires are properly enclosed behind
MyMopar.com
8-22
ELECTRICALSTARTER
SCREW
SWITCH
\
PLUNGER
A
\
rnnr.
. ,,
\
CAP
SNAP RING
\ \
WASHER\
SEAL
I
0
BEARING COIL
HOUSING
WASHER
BRUSH SPRING
/
SCREW
FRAME
NBl8B brush holder ring and do not interfere with brush operation.
INSTALLING THE STARTER
armature shaft to obtain .010
(13) 40 to 50 inch-pounds.
ADJUSTING STARTER DRIVE GEAR
(PINION) CLEARANCE
(1) Place starter assembly in a vise equipped with soft jaws and tighten vise sufficiently to hold starter.
Place a wedge or screwdriver beheen bottom of solenoid and starter frame to eliminate all deflection in the solenoid when making the pinion clearance test.
(2) Push in on solenoid plunger cage (Fig. 14)
(NOT
THE
FORK LEVER)
(3) Measure clearance between end of pinion and pin stop with plunger seated and pinion pushed toward the commutator end. Clearance should be 1/8 inch. Adjust for proper clearance by loosening sole- noid attaching screws and move solenoid fore and aft as required.
(4) Test starter operation under a
Test.”
“Free Running
(1) Before installing the starter, be sure starter and flywheel housing mounting surfaces are free of dirt and oil. These surfaces must be clean to make good electrical contact.
(2) Position starter seal (if removed). to flywheel housing removable
(3) Install starter from beneath the engine.
(4) Tighten attaching bolts securely.
(5) Attach the wires to solenoid switch and terminal.
starter
(6) Install battery ground cable and test operation of starter for proper engine cranking.
Flg. 1 U h . c k f n g Starter Drfve Plnion CI.arrcmme
MyMopar.com
0
ALTERN ATOR-REG
U
LATOR-ELECTR ICAL 8-23
ALTERNATOR AND ELECTRO-MECHANICAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR
Assembling the Alternator
Bench Tests
Fusible Wire Replacement
General Information
Rectifier (Diode) Testing
Page Page
......................
36 Regulator Testing
.............................
30
..................................
Disassembling the Alternator
...................
.....................
...........................
.......................
31
31
29
23
32
Replacing Slip Rings
Service Diagnosis
Specifications
..........................
.............................
.................................
Testing the Alternator Circuit
Voltage Regulator
..................
.............................
35
23
88
24
28
GENERAL INFORMATION
The alternator (Figs. 1 and 2) is fundamentally an
A.C. current generator, with six (6) built-in silicon rectifiers, that convert A.C. current into D.C. current.
D.C. current is available at the “output” minal.
The main components of the alternator are the rotor, stator, rectifiers, the end shields and the drive pulley.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition Possible Cause Correction
ALTERNATOR FAILS
CHARGE (No Output)
TO (a) Blown fusible wire in voltage regula- (a) Locate and correct cause of the fuse tor. blowing. Install new fuse wire. Solder both ends of new fusible wire se-
(b) Alternator drive belt loose. curely.
(b) Adjust drive belt to specifications.
(c) Worn brushes and/or slip rings.
(d) Sticking brushes.
(e) Open field circuit.
(f) Open charging circuit.
(g) Open circuit in stator windings.
(h) Open rectifiers.
(c) Install new brushes and/or slip rings.
(d) Clean slip rings and brush holders.
Install new brushes if necessary.
(e) Test all the field circuit connections, and correct as required.
(f) Inspect a l l connections in charging circuit, and correct as required.
(g) Remove alternator and disassemble.
Test stator windings. Install new stator if necessary.
(h) Remove alternator and disassemble.
Test the rectifiers. Install new recti- fiers if necessary.
LOW, UNSTEADY
CHARGING RATE
LOW OUTPUT AND
A LOW BATTERY
(a) Alternator drive belt loose. (a) Adjust alternator drive belt.
(b) High resistance at battery terminals. (b) Clean and tighten battery terminals.
(c) High resistance in charging circuit. (c) Test charging circuit resistance. Cor- rect as required.
(d) High resistance ground lead. in
(e) Open stator winding. body to engine (d) Tighten ground lead connections. In- stall new ground lead if necessary.
(e) Remove and disassemble alternator.
Test stator windings. Install new sta- tor if necessary.
(a) High resistance in charging circuit.
(b) Low regulator setting.
(c) Shorted rectifier. Open rectifier.
(d) Grounded stator windings.
(a) Test charging circuit resistance and correct as required.
(b) Reset voltage regulator to specifica- tions.
(c) Perform current output test. Test the rectifiers and install new rectifiers as required. Remove and disassemble the alternator.
(d) Remove and disassemble alternator.
Test stator windings. Install new stator if necessary.
MyMopar.com
8-24 E
LECTR ICAL-ALTER NATO
R-R EG U
IATO
R
Condition
EXCESSIVE CHARGING
RATE TO A FULLY
CHARGED BAll’ERY
REGULATOR CON-
TACTS BURNED
REGULATOR CONTACT
POINTS STUCK
NOISY ALTERNATOR
EXCESSIVE AMMETER
FLUCTUATION
0
Possible Cause Correction
Regulator set too high.
Regulator contacts stuck.
Regulator voltage winding open.
(a) Reset voltage regulator to specifica-
(b) tions.
Install new voltage regulator.
(c) Install new voltage regulator.
Regulator base improperly grounded. (d) Connect regulator base to a good ground.
High regulator setting.
Shorted rotor field coil windings.
(a) Reset voltage regulator to specifica- tions.
(b) Test rotor field coil current draw. If excessive install new rotor.
Poor ground *connection between al- (a) Correct ground connection. Install ternator and regulator. Open resistor new regulator. Test regulator setting, element. and reset if necessary.
Alternator mounting loose.
Worn or frayed drive belt.
Worn bearings.
Interference between rotor fan and stator leads or rectifiers.
Rotor or rotor fan damaged.
Open or shorted rectifier.
Open or shorted winding in stator.
(a) Properly install and tighten alternator mounting.
(b) Install a new drive belt and adjust to specifications.
(c) Remove and disassemble alternator.
Install new bearing a s required.
(d) Remove and disassemble alternator.
Correct interference a s required.
(e) Remove and disassemble alternator. new rotor.
( f )
Install
Remove and disassemble alternator.
Test rectifiers. Install new rectifiers as required.
(g) Remove and disassemble alternator.
Test stator windings. Install stator if necessary. new
(a) High resistance in the alternator or an improperly set necessary. Adjust voltage regulator as voltage regulator. the field circuit to (a) Clean and tighten all connections a s necessary.
TESTING THE ALTERNATOR SYSTEM
(On Vehicle)
Field Circuit Resistance
(1) lest (Fig. 3 )
Disconnect the ignition wire at the coil side of the ballast resistor and connect the positive lead of a test D.C. voltmeter to the battery positive post and connect the test voltmeter negative lead to the voltage regulator “FLD” (field) terminal; no other lights or accessories on.
(2) Turn the ignition switch on and turn the volt- meter selector switch to the low voltage scale and read the meter. The voltage should not exceed 5 5 volt. A reading in excess of .55 volt indicates high resistance in the field circuit between the battery and the voltage regulator field terminal.
(3) If high resistance is indicated, move the nega- tive voltmeter lead to each connection along the cir- cuit towards the battery. A sudden drop in voltage indicates a loose or corroded connection between that point and the last point tested. To test the terminal’s for tightness, attempt to move the terminal while observing the voltmeter. Any movement of the meter pointer indicates looseness.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Excessive resistance in the regulator wiring circuit will cause fluctuation in the ammeter.
(4) Turn the ignition switch off, disconnect test instrument and reconnect ignition primary wire at the coil side of the ballast resistor.
Charging Circuit Resistance Test
Test the condition of the battery and state of charge. With the battery in good condition and fully charged, proceed with the tests as follows:
Disconnect the battery ground cable at the battery negative port to avoid accidental shorting of the charging or field circuit when making test connec- tions.
(1) Disconnect the lead at the alternator “BATT” terminal. Connect a 0-50 ampere scale D.C. ammeter in series between the “BATT” terminal and “BATT” lead which was disconnected from the terminal (Fig.
4).
(2) Connect the positive lead of a test D.C. volt- meter to the “BATT” lead, and connect the negative voltmeter lead to the battery positive (+) terminal.
(3) Disconnect the field lead at the alternator
“FLD” (field) terminal and the ignition lead at the
MyMopar.com
0
INSULATOR
SPACER
ALTERNATOR-REGULATOR-ELECTRICAL 8-25
SHIELD
WASHER
BEARING
THRU BOLT (3)
1
1
\
\
ASSEMBLY
NYLON WASHER
1
SCREW
WASHER
BEARING
ND240D
Fig. 1 -Alternator (Disassembled View) regulator “ignition” terminal. Connect a special jumper between the alternator “FLD” (field) terminal and the alternator “BATT” (Battery) terminal. This will ensure that there will be no interference from the voltage regulator.
(4) Reconnect the battery ground cable at the bat- tery negative terminal.
( 5 ) Connect a variable carbon pile to the battery terminals.
(6) Start and operate the engine at a speed to ob- tain 10 amperes flowing in the circuit. Observe the voltmeter reading. The voltmeter reading should not exceed .3 volt. If a higher voltage drop is indicated, inspect, clean and tighten all the connections in the charging circuit. A voltage drop test may be per- formed at each connection to locate the connection with excessive resistance.
(7) Turn ignition switch off. Disconnect the bat- tery ground cable at the battery negative terminal.
Disconnect the test instrument. Connect the “BATT” lead to the alternator ‘‘BAT”” terminal and tighten
TEST VOLTMETER
Fig. 2-Alternator Assembly Fig. S-Field Circuit Resistance Test
MyMopar.com
8-26 ELECTRICAL-ALTERNATOR-REGU
LATOR
TEST AMMETER
C terminal. Be sure the ammeter lead is satisfactorily connected to the output “BATT” terminal.
(7) Connect an engine tachometer. Connect the bat- tery ground cable.
(8) Connect a variable carbon pile to the battery terminals.
(9) Start and operate engine at idle.
CAUTION: Immediately after starting reduce engine speed to idle. crements until a speed of 1250 RPM and a voltmeter reading of 15
CAUTION: Incremental increases in engine speed should not be large enough to allow voltage to go above 16 volts. j(. WIRE DISCONNECTED
FROM ALTERNATOR
“BAT“ TERMINAL
NR581A
Fig. 4-Charging Circuit Resistance Test securely. Connect the ignition lead at the regulator
“ignition” terminal connect battery ground cable at battery negative terminal.
Current Output Test (Fig. 5)
Disconnect the battery ground cable.
(2) Disconnect the “BATT” lead at the alternator output “BATT” terminal.
(3) ampere scale D.C. ammeter in series between the alternator “BATT” terminal and the disconnected “BATT” lead.
(4) Connect the positive lead of a test voltmeter to the output “BATT” lead. Connect the negative lead of the test voltmeter to ground.
(5) Disconnect the field “FLD” lead at the alter- nator, and the ignition lead at the regulator ignition terminal.
(6) Connect a “jumper” lead from the alternator field “FLD” terminal to the alternator output “BATT” current output should be within the limits shown in
“Specifications”.
If the output is slightly less (5 7 amperes) than that specified above, it may be an indication of pos- sible “open” rectifier or other alternator internal prob- lem. If the output is considerably lower than that specified above, it may be an indication of a possible
“shorted” rectifier or other alternator internal prob- lem. In either case the alternator should be removed and tested on the bench before disassembly.
Reduce engine speed then turn off carbon pile im- mediately after observing the reading on the test ammeter.
If the alternator current output tested satisfactorily, turn off ignition switch. minal” and “Output” Terminal. Connect the field wire to the alternator field terminal and the ignition lead to the regulator ignition terminal.
I
I
BAT.
+
L I / m \ l 1 I
ALTERNATOR
VOLTAGE
I
Voltage Regulator Test (On the Vehicle)-Engine at
Normal Operation Temperature (Fig. 6).
/
JUMPER
GROUND
WIRE
IGNITION
^. ..--
4k WIRE DISCONNECTED
FROM ALTERNATOR
“BAT” TERMINAL
Fig. 5-Current OuipV, Test
Upper Contacts
(1) With the ignition switch turned off, disconnect wire at ignition side of voltage regulator and install on-off switch and wire in series with voltage regulator and the wire disconnected from voltage regulator (Fig.
6). The on-off switch and wire assembly can be made up as shown in Figure 7.
(2) Connect positive lead of the test voltmeter to test harness terminal of switch and negative lead of test voltmeter to a good body ground.
(3) Disconnect the “BATT” lead at the alternator
(output) “BATT” terminal.
MyMopar.com
0
ALTER
N
A T 0 R-R E G
U
LATO R-E L ECTR IC AL
8-27
(6) Flash the voltage regulator circuit by momen- tarily opening and closing the on-off switch several times (which is in series with the voltage regulator).
(7) Observe test voltmeter. Voltmeter now indicates setting of the voltage regulator upper contacts. See
“Specifications”.
(8) If regulator operates within specifications, pro- ceed to lower contact voltage test. If upper contact voltage setting is not within specification, remove regulator cover and adjust voltage setting as outlined in “Regulator Adjustments”, step number (1).
NR583
+ I
Fig. 6-Voltage Regulator Ted
(4) Connect an 0-50 ampere scale
D.C.
in series between the alternator “BATT” terminal and the disconnected “BATT” lead.
CAUTION: If the field circuit is grounded on the field terminal side of the regulator circuit when removing or installing the lead, while the ignition is ON, the fuse wire in the regulator circuit will be blown and the regulator may be damaged.
(5) Start and operate the engine at 1250 rpm. Ad- just carbon pile or turn on lights and/or accessories to obtain a 15 ampere output as registered on the test ammeter. No current reading on test ammeter would indicate either a low set regulator or a blown fuse wire inside the voltage regulator between the upper stationary contact and the “IGN” terminal. Correct the cause and replace the fusible wire. Operate the engine at this speed and load for 15 minutes to make sure the entire system is temperature normalized then proceed with the test as follows:
(a) Re-adjust engine speed to 1250 RPM.
(b) Adjust carbon pile or adjust the lights and/or accessory load to maintain 15 amperes, as registered on the test ammeter.
(c) Measure and record the temperature at the reg- ulator by holding a reliable thermometer 1/4 inch from the regulator cover.
2822322 SWITCH 1704562 TERMINAL
I
(FEMALE)
18 GAUGE WIRE
18 INCHES LONG
ACTUATOR BUTTON CRIMPED AND SOLDERED NR588
Fig. 7-Vohage Regulator ON-OFF Switch and Wire Assembly
Lower
(1)
Contact
Test
Increase engine speed to 2200 R.P.M.
(2) Turn off all lights and/or accessories, or vary the carbon pile to decrease the current load to 7 am- peres output as registered on the test ammeter. The voltage should increase and amperage should de- crease.
(3) Again measure the temperature at the regulator to make sure it is the same as it was for the upper contacts test.
(4) Flash the voltage regulator circuit by opening and closing the on-off switch several times which is in series with the voltage regulator.
( 5 ) Read the test voltmeter and note the exact amount that voltage has increased from the voltage reading obtained with the regulator operating on the upper contacts. The voltage increase should not be less than .2 volt or more than .7 volt. If the voltage in- crease is not within these limits, it is an indication that the air gap and/or contact clearance is out of specification limits and requires adjustment, refer to
“Regulator Mechanical Adjustments.”
There will be a slightly higher voltage at higher engine speeds above 2200 rpm, however, this in- creased voltage must not exceed the voltage specified by more than .7 volt at any temperature range. If the voltage reading is less than .2 volt from readings in Step (4) under “Upper Contact Test”, test the bat- tery specific gravity to be sure battery is fully charged.
(6) Upon completion of test, reduce engine speed to idle, stop engine, disconnect battery and disconnect all test leads and adapters. Be sure that all vehicle’s cables and wiring connections are secure before re- starting engine.
CAUTION: Be sure the negative post of the battery is always connected to ground. Incorrect battery polar- ity may result in wiring harness damage and may damage the alternator rectifiers. Do not ground the alternator field circuit, as this may damage the regu- lator.
MyMopar.com
8-28
ELECTR
I
CAL-ALTE
R
NATO
R-R EG U
LATO R
0
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
(CHRYSLER BUILT)
GENERAL INFORMATION
The only function of the regulator is to limit the output voltage. The voltage regulator accomplishes this by controlling the flow of current in the rotor field coil, and in effect controls the strength of the rotor magnetic field.
The voltage regulator is connected in the field cir- cuit between the battery and the field terminal of the alternator. One terminal of the regulator is marked
“IGN” and the other is marked “FLD.” The “IGN” terminal of the regulator is connected to the coil side of the ignition switch so that the field circuit is com- pleted only when the ignition switch is turned “ON.”
The voltage regulator (Fig. 8 ) has two sets of con- tacts using a common single armature. The upper and lower stationary contact brackets are mounted on a molded plastic bracket which is attached to the regu- lator frame by a screw. (Fig. 9.) The upper contact bracket is connected to the “IGN” terminal by a fusi- ble wire. The lower contact bracket is connected to ground by another fusible wire. The armature is con- nected to the insulated “FLD” terminal.
Three resistance units are used (Fig. 10).
Two resistors are connected between the “IGN” and “FLD” terminals, in parallel with the upper set of contacts. One resistor is connected between “FLD” terminal and ground. Its function is to reduce arcing at regulator contacts.
A voltage coil, (Fig. 8 ) consisting of many turns of fine wire, is connected in series between the “IGN” terminal of the regulator and “ground.” Thus, when the ignition switch is turned “ON” battery voltage applied to the windings energizes the coil and the magnetic force of the coil tends to attract the regu-
-
UPPER CONTACT lator armature.
When battery line voltage is relatively low, current flow through the voltage coil will be low. The mag- netic force (or pull) of the voltage coil will not be great enough to overcome the regulator armature spring tension, which is holding the armature contact against the upper stationary contact, (Fig. 8).
Battery line voltage applied to the “IGN” terminal causes current to flow through the regulator upper contacts, through the “FLD” terminal of the regulator and to the “insulated” brush and rotor slip ring. The rotor field coil circuit is completed to ground through the other rotor slip ring and the ground brush. Inasmuch as the upper contacts are “closed,” the field circuit resistance is low, and maximum cur- rent will flow through the rotor field coil. The rotor field strength will be high, and the alternator output will be at its maximum for any rotor speed.
As the battery line voltage increases, the magnetic pull of the voltage coil overcomes the armature spring tension, and “opens” the upper contacts. The arma- ture contacts at this time do not touch either the upper or lower stationary contacts. Field current now flows through the regulator “IGN” terminal, through the two parallel resistors, through the “FLD” termi- nal, and through the rotor field to ground.
The two resistors, in series with the field circuit, reduce field current and rotor field strength, with a corresponding reduction in alternator output voltage.
This momentarily reduces battery line voltage applied to the regulator voltage coil. The regulator armature spring tension overcomes the magnetic pull of the voltage coil, closing the upper contacts.
FUSIBLE
WIRE
SOLDERING
POINTS
I
ADJUSTABLE
BRACKET
BRACKET
N K 1 0 9
Fig. 8-Voltuge Regulutor (Cover Removed) Fig. 9-Voltage Regulotor Fusibfe Wires
MyMopar.com
0
ALTER NATO R-R EG
U
LATO R-ELECTR ICAL
8-29
UNITS
N K l 1 0 A
Units
When the electrical load requirements are relative- ly high, the regulator armature oscillates, opening and closing the upper contacts. This alternately “puts in” and “takes out” resistance in the field circuit, and in effect limits the alternator output voltage.
When the electrical load requirements are low and the engine speed is high, the alternator output voltage tends to increase. The battery line voltage (now slight- ly increased) causes the regulator voltage coil mag- netic force to pull the armature contact against the regulator lower stationary contact.
Field current flow is now through the regulator
“IGN’ terminal, through the two parallel resistors to the regulator “FLD” terminal. Since the regulator armature is connected to the “FLD” terminal and the lower contacts are closed, the current path is through the regulator armature to the movable con- tact and then through the lower contact to ground.
This is because the resistance to ground is less than the alternator rotor field coil resistance.
By-passing the alternator field coil will cause the alternator output voltage and the battery line voltage to drop. This reduction in voltage will reduce the magnetic pull of the regulator voltage coil, to the ex- tent that it cannot hold the armature contact against the stationary lower contact.
The armature moves into a “no contact” position between the upper and lower stationary contacts. This momentarily allows the field current to flow through the two parallel resistors and through the rotor field coil to ground. At high engine speed and low electrical load operation, the armature oscillates between the
“no contact” position, and contact with the lower stationary contact, to limit battery line voltage.
Conditions
Specifications called for
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Adjusting the Voltage Setting to Driving in the voltage regulator chart indicate a tolerance of one volt from the low setting to high setting at temperatures indicated for the upper contact setting.
To maintain battery in a full state of charge, the voltage regulator should be adjusted to provide proper voltage limiting setting according to custom- er’s driving and load requirement habits as follows:
(a) Check entire charging system and battery as outlined in this Service Manual.
(b) If there are no defects in the charging system or in the battery and the battery was found to be in a low state of charge, increase setting by .3 volt (do not exceed specified voltage limits) and retest for an im- proved battery condition after a reasonable service period (week or two). If battery state of charge has increased to a satisfactory level, do not change voltage setting. If battery shows evidence of over-charge-
(low electrolyte level, high water consumption, exces- sive dampness on top of battery), decrease setting by
.3 volt and retest for an improved battery condition after a reasonable service period (week or two).
CAUTION: Always adjust settings in steps not to exceed .3 volt at a time. voltage limits.)
(c) The proper setting of the voltage regulator is attained when the battery remains at least 1.225 spe- cific gravity in the winter or 1.245 specified gravity in the summer, with a minimum water requirement (not more than an ounce of water per cell per one thou- sand miles).
Voltage Regulator Fusible Wire
Replacement
(1) Cut fuse wire above the solder connection at the base and unwind wire at top bracket.
CAUTION: If an attempt is made to unrolder the old fuse, the very small wire from voltage coil may be damaged.
(2)
(3)
Tin end of fuse wire. Use resin core solder only.
Holding tinned end of new fuse wire into re- cessed rivet at base of regulator. Place soldering iron on rivet head and heat sufficiently to melt the solder.
Allow solder to cool sufficiently for fuse wire to make a good solder joint.
(4) Pull new fuse wire up enough to remove slack and wrap it around the top bracket. Solder coiled wire
MyMopar.com
8-30
ELECTR ICAL-ALTERNATO R-R
EG
U LATOR
IN GAUGE
0
-
NK 108
Fig. I Spring Tension to the bracket and cut off surplus fuse wire. The original fuse wire is machine wound on the upper bracket. Replacement fuse should be soldered to the bracket t o ensure a good electrical contact.
Regulator Mechanical Adjustments
Step 1-Adjust upper contact voltage setting as necessary by bending regulator lower spring hanger down to increase voltage setting, up to decrease volt- age setting. Use an insulated tool to bend spring hanger (Fig. 11). regulator must be installed, cor- rectly connected, and retested after each adjustment of lower spring hanger. If repeated readjustment is required, it is permissible to use a jumper wire to ground the regulator base to the fender splash shield f o r testing, in lieu of reinstalling regulator each time.
However, it is important that regulator cover be rein- stalled, regulator connections correctly connected, and regulator satisfactorily insulated by fender cover t o prevent grounding the regulator terminals or resist- ances. When testing, regulator must be at the same attitude (or angle) as when installed on vehicle. If step (1) under ”Mechanical Adjustments” does not bring voltage regulator within specifications, proceed t o Step (2) following:
Step 2-Measure lower contact point gap. Lower contact gap should be .014 inch plus or minus .002 inch. Adjust lower contact gap as necessary by bend- ing lower stationary contact bracket making sure con- tacts are in alignment.
If lower contact gap is correct and voltage regulator setting is still outside the .2 to .7 volt increase, adjust air gap as follows:
NK111
Fig. 12-Testing the Air Gap
(a) Connect a small dry cell and test lamp in series with the “IGN” and regu- lator.
(b) Insert an .048 inch wire gauge between regu- lator armature and core of the voltage coil next to stop pin on armature (Fig. 12).
(c) Press down on armature (not on the contact reed) until armature contacts wire gauge. Upper con- tacts should just open and test lamp should be dim.
(d) Insert an .052 inch wire gauge between the armature and voltage coil core, next to the stop pin on armature.
(e) Press down on armature until it contacts wire gauge. The upper contacts should remain closed and test lamp should remain bright.
If an adjustment is required to obtain the differ- ence between the upper contact voltage and lower contact voltage of .2 volt to .7 volt; adjust the air gap by loosening the stationary contact bracket screw and moving bracket up or down as necessary to obtain proper air gap setting as follows:
If the difference is above .7 volt, reduce air gap to a minimum of .045 inch with contacts open and test lamp dim. At .048 inch contacts should close and test lamp should be bright.
If the difference is below .2 volt, increase air gap to a maximum of .055 inch with contacts closed and test lamp bright. At .052 inch contacts should be open and test lamp should be dim. Make sure air gap is chockad with stationary contact bracket attaching screw fully tightened.
MyMopar.com
0
ALTERN AT0
R-R
EG
U LATO
R-ELECTRICAL
8-31
ALTERNATOR SERVICE PROCEDURES
If alternator performance does not meet current output specifications limits, it will have to be removed and disassembled for further test and servicing.
(1) Disconnect battery ground cable at battery negative terminal.
(2) Disconnect alternator output “BATT” and field
“FLD” leads and disconnect ground wire.
(3) Remove aiternator mounting bolts and remove alternator.
BENCH TESTS
Field Coil Draw
If alternator field coil draw has not been tested on vehicle it may be tested on test bench as follows:
(1) Connect test ammeter positive lead to battery positive terminal of a fully charged battery. Connect test ammeter negative lead to field terminal of alter- nator. Connect a jumper wire to negative terminal of battery, and ground it to alternator end shield.
(2) Slowly rotate alternator rotor by hand. Observe ammeter reading. Field coil draw should be 2.3 am- peres to 2.7 ampere at 12 volts. A low rotor coil draw is an indication of high resistance in field coil circuit,
(brushes, slip rings, or rotor coil). A higher rotor coil draw indicates possible shorted rotor coil or grounded rotor.
Testing Alternator Internal Field Circuit for
Ground
(1) To test internal field circuit for gromd, remove ground brush. Touch one test prod from a 110 volt test lamp to the alternator insulated brush terminal and remaining test prod to end shield. If rotor assem- bly or insulated brush is not grounded, lamp will not light.
(2) If lamp lights, remove insulated brush assembly
(noting how the parts are assembled) and separate the end shields by removing the three through bolts.
(3) Again test by placing one of the test prods to a slip ring and remaining test prod to end shield. If lamp lights, rotor assembly is grounded and requires replacement. If lamp does not. light after removing the insulated brush and separating the end shields, the cause of the ground at the first ground test was a grounded insulated brush.
(4) Examine plastic insulator and screw. Screw is a special size and must not be substituted.
(5) Install insulated brush holder, terminal, hsu- lated washer, shake proof washer and screw. If the parts were not assembled in this order or if wrong screw was used this could be the cause of the ground condition.
DISASSEMBLING THE ALTERNATOR
To prevent possible damage to brush assemblies,
INSULATED
A
NDl06A
Fig. 13-Removing or Installing Insulated Brush they should be removed before proceeding with disas- sembly of the alternator. The insulated brush is mounted in a plastic holder that positions brush verti- cally against one of the slip rings.
(1) Remove retaining screw lockwasher, insulated washer, and field terminal, and carefully lift plastic holder containing spring and brush assembly from end housing, (Fig. 13).
(2) The ground brush is positioned horizontally against remaining slip ring and is retained in a holder that is integral with end shield. Remove retaining screw and lift clip, spring and brush assembly from end shield, (Fig. 14).
CAUTION: Stator is laminated, do not burr stator or end shield.
(3) Remove through bolts and pry between the stator and drive end shield with blade of a screw- driver, (Fig. 15). Carefully separate drive end shield, pulley and rotor assembly away from stator and recti- fier shield assembly.
GROUND BRUSH ASSEMBLY
/ w@‘
**
Fig. 14-Removing or lnstolling Ground Brush
MyMopar.com
8-32
E LECTR I C A L A L T E R NATO R-R EGU LATO R
DRIVE END
RECTIFIER END
NDl08A
Fig. 15-Separating Drive End Shield From Stator
Testing the Rectifiers with Tool C-3829
The Rectified Tester Tool C-3829 provides a quick, simple and accurate test of the alternator rectifiers without the necessity of disconnecting soldered recti- fier leads. With alternator rectifier end shield sepa- rated from drive end housing proceed with rectifier tests as follows:
0 the same for three rectifiers.
When two rectifiers are good and one is shorted, reading taken at the good rectifiers will be low, and reading at shorted rectifier will be zero. Disconnect lead to the rectifier reading zero and retest. The read- ing of the good rectifiers will now be within satisfac- tory range.
When one rectifier is open it will read approximate- ly one ampere, and two good rectifiers will read with- in satisfactory range.
Negative Case Rectifier (Fig. 17)
(a) Connect test lead clip to rectifier end housing.
(b) Touch exposed connection of each of the nega- tive case rectifiers with test prod.
Test specifications are the same, and test results will be approximately the same as for positive case rectifiers, except meter will read on opposite side of scale.
Positive Case Rectifier Test (Fig. 16)
(a) Place alternator on an insulated surface. Con- nect test lead clip to the alternator (“BAT”) output terminal.
(b) Plug in Tool C-3829 power source lead into a
110 volt A.C. power supply. Touch exposed bare metal connections of each of the positive case rectifiers, with test prod.
CAUTION: Do not break the sealing around rectifier lead wire. The sealing material is for protection against corrosion. Always touch test prod to exposed metal connection nearest rectifier.
The reading for satisfactory rectifiers will be 1-3/4 amperes or more. Reading should be approximately
TESTING RECTIFIERS AND STATOR
Tool C-3829
is
not available)
(When
(a) Separate the three (3) stator leads at nection (Fig. 18). Cut stator connection as close to connector as possible. If they are cut too short it may be difficult to get them together again for soldering.
(b) Test rectifiers with a 12 volt battery and a test lamp equipped with a number 67 bulb (4 candle power) by connecting one side of test lamp to positive battery post; other side of test lamp to a test probe with other test probe connected to the negative bat- tery post.
(c) Contact outer case of rectifier with one probe and other probe to wire in center of rectifier (Fig. 26).
(d) Reverse the probes, moving probe from recti- fier outer case to rectifier wire, and the probe from rectifier wire to rectifier outer case.
If test lamp “lights” in one direction but does “not light” in other direction, rectifier is satisfactory. If
TEST PROD
NEGATIVE CASE
\
.....
Al
”BAT” TERMINAL
Fig. 1 &-testing Positive Rectifiers
NKlO6
GROUND LEAD
TO END HOUSING
Fig. 17-Testing Negative Rectifiers
MyMopar.com
0
ALTERNATO R-R EGULATOR-ELECTRICAL
TO 110 VOLT
WOOD f ’
8-33
Fig. 18-Separating the Three Stator Leads lamp lights in “both directions,” rectifier is “short- ed.” If test lamp does “not light” in either direction, rectifier is “open.” Possible cause of an open or blown rectifier is a faulty capacitor o r a battery that has been installed in reverse polarity. If battery is in- stalled properly and the rectifiers are open, test capa- citor capacity-30 microfarad (plus or minus 20%).
(e) Unsolder rectifier leads from stator leads. Do not blow solder off with air-fine particles of solder can short other rectifiers.
(f) Test stator for grounds using a 110 volt test lamp (Fig. 20). Use wood slats to insulate the stator from rectifier shield. Contact one prod of test lamp to stator pole frame, and contact the other prod to each of the three stator leads. Test lamp should “not light.”
If test lamp lights, stator windings are “grounded.”
(g) Test stator windings for continuity, by contact- ing one prod of test lamp to all three stator leads at leads (disconnected from rectifiers). Test lamp should
“light” when prod contacts each of the three leads. If lamp does not light stator winding is “open” (Fig. 21).
Fig. 20-resting Stator for Ground
(h) Install a new stator if stator tested is “ground- ed” or “open.” If the rectifiers must be replaced, un- solder the rectifier wire from the stator lead wire at the soldered joint. Three rectifiers are pressed into the heat sink and three in end shield. When removing rectifiers, it is necessary t o support end shield and/or heat sink t o prevent damage to these castings.
(4) Place Rectifier Removing and Installing Press in a vise and support end shield on clamp anvil under rectifier to be removed (Fig. 22). Support tool adapter
SP-3821 is cutaway and slotted t o fit over wires and around bosses in end shield. Make sure bore of tool completely surrounds rectifier during removal proc- ess.
(5) Carefully apply pressure with tool pressure screw until support tool, rectifier end shield, and re- mover pin, and remover adapter are in alignment then press the rectifier out of end shield or heat sink.
(6) The pulley is an interference fit on rotor sNaft.
Remove pulley with Puller Tool C-4068, 23). spring retainer from end shield with a screwdriver (Fig. 24).
Fig. 19-Testing Rectifiers with Test Lamp
NKll3
Fig. 2 I-resting Stator Windings for Continuity
MyMopar.com
8-34 ELECTR ICAL-ALTER NATO R-R EG U LATO R
FIXTURE
\
BEARING RETAINER
R E M ~ V I N G
ADAPTER n
NF 42A
Fig. 22-Removing the Rectifiers
(8) Support end shield and tap rotor shaft with a plastic hammer to separate rotor from end shield. The new bearing is lubricated with a predetermined amount of special lubricant and does not require addi- tional lubrication.
(9) The drive end ball bearing is an interference fit with the rotor shaft. Remove bearing with Puller
Tool C-4068, (Fig. 25).
(10) Remove output terminal nuts and washers and remove terminal screw and inside capacitor. The heat sink is also held in place by the terminal screw.
(11) Remove insulator (Fig. 26).
Fig. 24-Disengaging Bearing Retainer from
End Shield
BEARING
RETAINER
TOOL
NR579
Fig. 25-Removing Bearing from Rotor Shaft
0
Fig. 23-Removing the Pulley Fig. 26-Removing Heat Sink lnsulator
MyMopar.com
0
ALTERNATOR-R EG
U
LATOR-ELECTRICAL
8-35
C-3770
OLD SLlP RING
\
NF65
Fig. 27-Removing Rectifier End Shield Bearing shield is a press fit. If necessary to remove rectifier end frame needle bearing, protect end shield by s u p porting shield with Tool C-3925 when pressing bear- ing out with Tool C-3770A (Fig. 27). Make sure notches in tool clear raised section of heat sink. The new bearing is prelubricated and no additional lubricant should be added, as an excessive amount of lubricant will contaminate the slip rings and cause premature brush and rotor failures.
REPLACING SLIP RINGS
Slip rings that are damaged can be replaced as fol- lows:
(a) Remove rotor plastic grease retainer.
(b) Unwind field coil leads from slip ring lugs (Fig.
28) being careful not to break the wire leads.
SLIP RING
SLIP RING
SOLDER LUG
/
CUT W
CHI
NDS26A
Fig. 29-Cutting Old Slip Rings
(c) Use a chisel to cut through the copper of both slip rings at opposite points (180"
(d) Break the plastic insulator and remove the old slip ring.
(e) Clean away dirt and particles of old slip ring from rotor.
(f) Scrape ends of field coil wires clean for good electrical contact.
(g) Position field coil wires so as to clear path for new slip ring.
(h) Position new slip ring carefully on rotor shaft to insure that slip ring lugs will be in proper position for connecting field coil wires (Fig. 30).
(i) Place installing Tool C-3900 over rotor shaft and position rotor, slip ring and tool assembly in arbor press (Fig. 31). Press slip ring on shaft. When slip ring is bottomed on rotor fan, the field lead wire
(insulated brush ring) should clear the access hole, the fan and pole piece.
(j) Tin field coil lead wires.
(k) Coil each field lead wire around the slip ring lug, starting first wrap against shoulder of lug and wind- ing outward. Solder with resin core solder (Fig. 32).
SLlP RING LUG
V
NP365
Fig. 28-Solder Points-Slip Ring Installed Fig. 30-Aligning Slip Ring with Field Lead Wires
MyMopar.com
8-36
ELECTRICALALTERNATOR-R EGU LATOR
0
!TOR
SLIP RlNi
PRESS\
A b
P367 Fig. 33-Indulling Grease Retainer
Fig. 3 I -1nstulling Slip Rings when the inner bore of the installer tool bottoms on the rotor shaft.
0)
Test slip rings for ground with a 110 volt test lamp by touching one test lead prod to rotor pole piece and remaining prod to slip ring. Test lamp
ASSEMBLING
THE
ALTERNATOR
should not light. If lamp lights, slip rings are shorted
(1) Check rectifier identification to make sure cor- to ground. rect rectifier is being installed. Refer to Parts List for
(m) Test 'lip ring for continuity placing
One test prod
On the positive and the
Other test prod
On rectifier identification.
(2) Start rectifier squarely into mounting hole.
(3) Suppod heat sink
or
rectifier end shield on in- the p o u n d slip ring. Light should go
On showing the field circuit is completed.
(n) If rotor is not Pounded and staller adapter of Tool C-3928. With the installing adapter positioned on the rectifier, carefully apply circuit is con- pressure with tool pressure screw until the installer tinuous, lightly clean SUP rings surface with 00 sand- tool, rectifier, rectifier end shield or heat sink are in
I paper. alignment and after determining that rectifier is
( 0 )
Position grease retainer on rotor shaft and started squarely in the casting, slowly apply pressure press retainer on shaft with installer Tool C-3921 with tool pressure screw until you feel the collar of
(Fig. 33). The plastic retainer is properly positioned rectifier bottom against casting (Fig. 34). Make sure installer support adapter fits square around the recti= fier inner boss and that pressure is applied on outer rim of rectifier.
% i
SLIP RI
I
Fig. 32-Soldering Field Coil Leads Fig. 34-Installing a Rediffer
N F 44A
MyMopar.com
0
ALTER NATO R-R
EG U
LATO
R-E
LECTR
IC
AI.
8-37
PRESSING T O O L \
RECTIFIER LEAD
ND114 A
Fig. 35-Soldering Rectifier and Stator Leads
CAUTION: DO NOT USE a hammer t o start the rectifier into its bore in end shield. DO NOT HAM-
MER OR SHOCK the rectifier in any manner as this will fracture the thin silicon wafer in the rectifier causing complete rectifier failure.
(4) Clean the leads and mate stator lead with recti- fier wire and bend the loop snugly around stator lead to provide a good electrical and mechanical connec- tion. Solder wires with resin core solder. Hold recti- fier lead wire with pliers just below the joint while soldering (Fig. 35). Pliers will absorb heat from the soldering operation and protect rectifier. After sol- dering, quickly cool soldered connection; touch a dampened cloth against it. This will aid in forming a solid joint.
ROTOR
ND116
Fig. 37--lndalling Drive E n d Shield Bearing
(6) C-3925 so that notches in the support tool will clear the raised sec- tion of the heat sink and press the bearing into posi- tion with Tool SP-3381 36), until bottomed on support tool. New bearings are pralubricated, addi- tional lubrication is not required.
(7) Insert drive end bearing in drive end shield and install bearing retainer plate to hold bearing in place.
(8) Position bearing and drive end shield on rotor shaft and, while supporting base of rotor shaft, press bearing and shield into position on rotor shaft with arbor press and Tool C-3858 37).
CAUTION: Make sure bearing is installed squarely at installation; otherwise, damage t o bearing w i l l result. Press bearing on rotor shaft until bearing con- tacts shoulder on rotor shaft fan hub. down into the slots cast into the end shield and ce- mented with MoPar Cement Part Number 2299314 or equivalent to protect the leads against possible inter- ference with the rotor fans. Test each replacement rectifier to make certain rectifier was not damaged by the soldering or pressing operations.
PRESS be supported in a manner so all pressing force is on pulley hub and rotor shaft (Fig. 38). Press pulley on rotor shaft until pulley contacts inner race of drive and bearing. Do not exceed 6800 pounds pressure.
Do not hammer.
TOOL
CAPACITOR
STATOR,
L E A R I N G
'OOL
,PRESS
NF728A
Fig. 36--lnstalling Rectifier E n d Shield Bearing Fig. 38--lnrtalling Alternator Pulley
ND117
MyMopar.com
8-38 ELECTR ICAL-I
G N
IT10
N SYSTEM internally. Make sure heat sink insulator is in place
(Fig. 26).
(11) Install output terminal screw and capacitor through heat sink and end shield.
(12) Install insulating washers, lockwashers and lock nuts. sure heat sink and insulator are in posi- tion then tighten lock nut.
0
Place bronze terminal on plastic holder with tab of terminal in the recess in plastic holder.
(18) Place nylon washer on the bronze terminal and install lockwasher and attaching screw.
(19) Install ground brush and attaching screw.
(20) be sure rotor fans do not hit the rectifiers, capacitor lead, and stator connections. specifications.
(22) (field) “FLD” leads and connect ground wire. stator and rectifier end shield assembly. Align through bolt holes in the stator, rectifier end shield and drive end shield.
(16) shields by hand and install through bolts, washers and nuts. Tighten bolts evenly to 20-30
(17) brush in rectifier end shield. nator operation. age setting, if necessary. alter-
Assembling the Distributor
Ballast Resistor
Distributor Advance Testing
Distributor Contact Dwell
Distributor Contacts
Distributor Disassembly
Distributor Installation
Distributor Lubrication
Distributor Removal
Distributor Resistance Test
Dwell Variation
General Information
I G N I T I O N SYSTEM-6-CYLINDER
INDEX
....................
...............................
....................
......................
...........................
.......................
.........................
........................
...........................
....................
................................
Page
42
46
45
40
44
42
45
45
41
40
40
38
GENERAL INFORMATION
The ignition system consists of two separate cir- cuits. The battery, ammeter, ignition switch, ballast resistor, primary winding of the ignition coil, distribu- tor contacts and condenser, vehicle frame, and pri-
Idle R.P.M. Test
Ignition Coil
Lubrication
Secondary Circuit Inspection
Service Diagnosis
Shaft and Bushing Wear Test
Spark Plugs
Specifications
Testing Contact Arm Spring Tension
Timing
.
.
...............................
..................................
Ignition Timing
................................
Installing and Aligning Contacts
................
.......................
..................................
.................................
..............................
Page
..................
.............................
..................
............
40
46
41
45
45
39
38
41
56
89
43
41 mary wiring make up the low voltage primary circuit.
The secondary high voltage circuit includes the coil secondary winding, distributor cap and rotor, spark plug cables, spark plugs and vehicle frame.
Condition
BURNED OR PITTED
DISTRIBUTOR
CONTACTS
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause Correction
(a) Dirt or oil on contacts. (a) If oil is on contact face, determine cause and correct condition. Clean distributor cam of dirt and grease, a p ply a light film of distributor cam lu- bricant to cam lobes; wipe off excess.
See “Distributor Lubrication.” Re- place contact set and adjust a s nec-
(b) Alternator voltage regulator setting too high.
(b) essary.
Test alternator voltage regulator set- ting, adjust as necessary. Replace contact set and adjust as necessary.
(c) Contacts misaligned or gap too small. (c) Align and adjust contacts.
(d) Faulty coil. (d) Test and replace coil if necessary. place and adjust contacts.
Re-
MyMopar.com
0
IGNITION SYSTEM-ELECTRICAL
8-39
IGNITION
FA1 LU R
E
Condition
COIL
Possible Cause Correction
Ballast resistor not
Wrong condenser in or circuit. faulty condenser.
Faulty ignition switch.
Bushings
Touching contacts with ing worn. installation.
(e)
(f)
(g)
( h ) the hands dur- (i)
Inspect conditions, and correctly con- nect the coil.
Test condenser and replace if sary. Replace and adjust contacts.
Replace ignition switch.
Replace housing.
Replace and adjust contacts. neces-
(a 1 Coil damaged by engine. excessive heat from (a)
(b) Coi I tower carbon-tracked.
(C) Oil leak at tower.
(b)
(C)
Replace coil. Inspect condition of the distributor contacts.
Replace the coil.
Replace the coil.
Secondary Circuit Inspection
Check the high tension cable connections for good contact at the coil and distributor cap towers and at the spark plugs. Terminals should be fully seated. The nipples and spark plug covers should be in good con- dition. Nipples should fit tightly on the coil cap towers and spark plug cover should fit tight around spark plug insulators. Cable connections that are loose will corrode and increase the resistance and permit water to enter the towers causing ignition malfunction. To maintain proper sealing between the towers and nipples, cable and nipple assemblies should not be removed from the distributor or coil towers unless nipples are damaged o r cable testing indicates high resistance or broken insulation.
Clean high tension cables with a cloth moistened with a non-flammable solvent and wipe dry. Bend cable to check for brittle or cracked insulation.
When testing secondary cables for punctures and cracks with an oscilloscope follow the instructions of the equipment manufacturers.
If an oscilloscope is not available, secondary cables can be tested as follows:
SERVICE PROCEDURES
probe to a good ground, other end free for probing.
(b) Disconnect cable at spark plug end. Insulate cable end from grounding.
(c) With engine running, move test probe along entire length of wire. If punctures or cracks are present there will be a noticeable spark jump from the faulty area to the probe. Secondary coil wire may be checked in the same manner, be sure one spark plug cable is disconnected from spark plug while running probe along coil wire secondary cable.
Cracked, leaking or faulty cables should be replaced.
When installing new cable assemblies, install new high tension cable and nipple assembly over cap o r coil tower, entering the terminal into the tower, push lightly, then pinch the large diameter of nipple (Fig.
1) to release trapped air between the nipple and tower.
Continue pushing on the cable and nipple until cables are properly seated in the cap towers. Use the same procedure to install cable in coil tower (Fig. 2). Wipe the spark plug insulator clean before reinstalling cable and cover.
Resistance type cable is identified by the words
“Electronic Suppression” printed on cable jacket.
No additional resistors are necessary.
An ohmmeter can be used to check resistance type cables for open circuits, loose terminals or high resistance as follows:
Fig. I-Installing Secondary Cable and Nipples at
Distributor Cap Towers
Fig. 2-Installing Secondary Cable and Nipple
Coil Tower ut
MyMopar.com
840
ELECTRICAL-IGNITION SYSTEM
(a) Remove cable from spark plug and install the proper adapater between cable and the spark plug.
(b) Lift distributor cap from distributor with cables intact. Do not remove cables from the cap.
(c) Connect the ohmmeter between spark plug adapter and the corresponding eleckode inside the cap, making sure ohmmeter probes are in good con- tact. If resistance is more than 30,000 ohms, remove cable at cap tower and check cable resistance. If re- sistance is more than 30,000 ohms, replace cable assembly. Test all spark plug cables in same manner.
To test coil to distributor cap high tension cable, remove distributor cap with the cable intact. Do not remove cable from the coil or cap. Connect the ohm- meter between center contact in the cap and either primary terminal at coil. If the combined resistance of coil and cable is more than 25,000 ohms, remove the cable at coil tower and check cable resistance. If resistance is more than 15,000 ohms, replace cable. If resistance is less, check for a loose connection at the tower or for a faulty coil.
Inspect coil tower for cracks, carbon tracking or oil leaks.
DISTRIBUTOR RESISTANCE TEST
This test indicates the resistance of the ignition primary circuit from the distributor side of the coil, through the contacts and distributor ground. Ex- cessive resistance in this portion of the ignition sys- tem will prevent the coil from producing sufficient output for good overall ignition. To perform test, pro- ceed as follows:
(1) Turn Selector Switch of a Tach-Dwell unit to
CALIBRATE position and adjust Dwell Calibrator until Dwell Meter reads on the set line (test leads sepa- rated).
(2) Leave Selector Switch in CALIBRATE position, connect Tach-Dwell red lead to distributor terminal of coil and black lead to a good ground.
(3) Turn ignition switch “ON.” Observe dwell meter reading. Meter pointer should be within bar marked
“DISTRIBUTOR RESISTANCE.” If reading is zero or outside of bar, crank engine with the starter until meter pointer moves as far to the right as possible.
(This will indicate that contacts are closed.) A reading now within the bar indicates a normal distributor primary circuit.
If reading is outside the bar, high resistance is present in distributor primary circuit.
(4) Remove test lead from distributor terminal of coil and connect to the following points:
(a) Distributor primary terminal (outside)
(b) Distributor primary terminal (inside)
(c) Contact terminal bracket (insulated bracket)
(d) Ground side of contacts.
(e) Distributor housing.
0
(5) Repeat test at each connection until a notice- able change occurs in meter reading. If a poor con- nection or faulty lead is indicated, clean, tighten replace as necessary and repeat test (3). or
If faulty contacts are indicated, remove distributor for complete inspection, service, testing and calibra- tion.
IDLE RPM TEST
Engine idle rpm setting should be tested and
re-
corded as it is when the vehicle is first brought into the shop for testing. This will assist in diagnosing complaints of engine stalling or complaints of creep- ing and hard shifting on vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions.
Test procedures are as follows:
(1) Turn Selector Switch to CALIBRATE position and adjust Dwell Calibrator until Dwell Meter reads on SET line (test leads separated).
(2) Connect red lead of the test unit to the distribu- tor primary terminal at the coil and the black lead to a good ground.
(3) Turn Selector Switch to the 6 LOBE position.
(4) Turn Tach-Dwell RPM Switch to the 1000
RPM
position.
(5) With engine at normal operating temperature
(off fast idle), momentarily open the throttle and re- lease to make sure there is no bind in the linkage and that idle speed screw is against its stop.
(6) 1000 RPM scale and adjust carburetor idle speed to specifications shown in Fuel
System “Specifications.”
DISTRIBUTOR CONTACT DWELL
The degrees of distributor dwell are the degrees of rotation through which the breaker contacts remain closed. This is also commonly referred to as “dwell angle” or “cam angle.”
Correct distributor contact dwell is essential for good ignition performance and contact life.
Test procedures are as follows:
(1) Disconnect vacuum line.
(2) Connect Tach-Dwell red lead to distributor terminal of coil and black lead to a good ground.
(3) Turn Selector Switch to LOBE position.
(4) Start engine and operate at idle speed.
(5) Observe Dwell-Meter reading. If dwell reading is within “Specifications,” contact gap, cam rubbing block and contact arm are all in satisfactory condition.
If dwell reading is not within specifications, incor- rect contact gap, worn cam, worn rubbing block or distorted movable contact arm may be indicated.
DWELL VARIATION
This test indicates the mechanical condition of the distributor. Excessive wear in distributor mechanical
MyMopar.com
0
IGNITION SYSTEM-ELECTRICAL
841 parts cause dwell variations which will affect ignition timing.
Test procedures are as follows:
(1) With engine at idle speed, vacuum hose discon- nected, and with test leads connected as in Contact
Dwell Test, turn the Tach-Dwell RPM Switch to 5000
RPM position.
(2) Slowly increase engine speed to 1500 RPM then slowly reduce to idle speed while observing Dwell
Meter reading.
If dwell reading varies more than 2 degrees from initial reading between idle speed and 1500 RPM, probable wear in the distributor shaft, bushings or breaker plate is indicated. Remove distributor for complete inspection and testing on a distributor tester. Dwell variation at speeds above 1500 RPM does not necessarily indicate distributor wear.
IMPORTANT: Dwell and gap of the contacts must both be within their specified limits at the same time.
If this cannot be accomplished, it is probable that wrong contacts are installed, the rubbing block o r cam lobes are badly worn o r the movable contact arm is distorted.
IGNITION TIMING
To obtain maximum engine performance, the dis- tributor must be correctly positioned on the engine to give proper ignition timing.
The ignition timing test will indicate timing of .the spark at No. 1
Test procedures are as follows:
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose at distributor.
(2) Connect secondary lead of Power Timing Light to No. 1 spark plug, red primary lead to positive terminal of battery and black primary lead to nega- tive battery terminal. Do not puncture cables, hoots o r nipples with test probes. Always use proper adapters. Puncturing spark plug cables with a probe will damage the cables. The probe can separate the conductor and cause high resistance. In addition, breaking the rubber insulation may permit secondary current to arc to ground.
(3) Start engine and set
(Transmission in Neutral). idle to “Specifications”
(4) Loosen distributor hold-down arm screw just enough so the distributor housing can be rotated in its mounting.
( 5 ) Aim Power Timing Light at timing plate on chain case cover. If light flash occurs when timing mark on the vibration damper is located ahead of the specified degree mark on timing plate in the direction of engine rotation, timing is advanced. To adjust, turn distributor housing in direction of rotor rotation.
If flash occurs when the vibration damper timing mark is located past the specified degree mark in the direction of engine rotation, timing is retarded. To adjust, turn distributor housing against direction of rotor rotation. Refer to “Specifications.” (Moving the distributor housing counterclockwise advances igni- tion timing and clockwise retards timing.)
(6) Tighten distributor hold-down arm screw after timing has been set and recheck timing adjustment with a Power Timing Light.
(7) When ignition timing is correct, reconnect vacuum hose to distributor. lgnition Timing (with C-744 Test Lamp)
(1) Connect C-744 test lamp between distributor primary terminal and battery positive post.
(2) Turn engine until number 6 exhaust valve is just closing; continue turning the engine slowly until mark on the crankshaft pulley is at specified degree mark at case cover.
(3) Loosen distributor clamp bolt so distributor housing can be rotated with a slight drag, then turn distributor in the normal rotation until test lamp lights.
(4) Turn distributor against normal distributor ro- tation until test lamp goes out. If test lamp lights im- mediately when connected, turn distributor against normal distributor rotation until light goes out.
( 5 ) Tighten distributor clamp bolt securely and re- move test lamp. If operation is performed properly the engine is timed to specifications. If engine is turned beyond the timing mark, continue turning engine for two full revolutions of the crankshaft; this will place the distributor rotor in approximately the initial position.
CAUTION: DO NOT reverse rotation of crankshaft if you have passed the timing mark as this would affect valve timing and distributor timing.
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose at distributor.
(2) Disconnect primary lead wire at coil.
(3) Unfasten distributor cap retaining clips and lift off distributor cap.
(4) Rotate engine crankshaft until the distributor rotor is pointing toward the cylinder block, scribe a mark on block at this point to indicate position of the rotor as reference when reinstalling distributor.
( 5 ) Remove distributor hold-down arm screw.
(6) Carefully lift the distributor from the engine, shaft will rotate slightly as the distributor gear is dis- engaged from the camshaft gear.
SHAFT AND BUSHING WEAR TEST
(1) Remove distributor rotor.
(2) Disconnect primary lead wire at distributor terminal. Do not loosen removable contact arm spring retaining nut.
MyMopar.com
8 4 2
ELECTRICAL-IGNITION SYSTEM
0
I
/TOOL
!
ND327A
Fig. 3-Shaft and Bushing Wear Test
(3) Clamp distributor hold-down arm in a vise equipped with soft jaws and apply only enough pres- sure to restrict any movement of the distributor dur- ing this test.
(4) Attach a dial indicator to distributor housing so indicator plunger arm rests against movable arm at rubbing block and with rubbing block of movable con- tact arm on highest point of a cam lobe (Fig. 3).
(5) of distributor shaft. Hook a spring scale in the other end of the wire loop and pull on a line with the plunger of the indicator gauge. The wire loop must be down on the distributor shaft to insure a straight pull also be sure that the wire loop does not interfere with the indicator or indicator holding bracket. Apply a five pound pull and read the movement of the plunger on the indicator dial. (Be sure the rubbing block of the movable contact arm is on the highest point of the cam lobe during this test.) If the plunger movement ex- ceeds .006 inch, replace the distributor housing or shaft assembly, see “Distributor Disassembly.”
DISTRIBUTOR DISASSEMBLY (Fig. 4)
(1) Remove distributor rotor.
(2) Remove the two screws and lockwashers attach- ing the vacuum control unit to distributor housing and remove vacuum control unit.
(3) Disconnect primary lead at terminal screw and slide primary lead off the contact plate
Remove wire and grommet as terminal. an assembly. (Push grommet towards inside of distributor to remove-Do not pull the wire.)
(4) Remove two screws and lockwashers attaching contact plate to the housing and lift out contact plate, contacts and condenser as an assembly. Distributor cap clamp springs are held in place by p n e d metal around the openings and should not be removed.
(5) If the side play exceeds .006 inch in “Shaft and
Bushing Wear Test”, replace distributor housing as- sembly or shaft and governor assembly as follows:
(a) Remove distributor drive gear retaining pin and slide gear off end of shaft. If gear is worn or dam- aged see “Assembling-Distributor” step 5.
CAUTION: Support hub of gear in a manner that pin can be driven out of gear and shaft without damaging gear teeth.
(b) Use a file to clean burrs from around pin hole in the shaft and remove the lower thrust washer.
(c) Push shaft up and remove shaft through top of distributor body.
ASSEMBLING THE DlSTRl BUTOR
(Refer to Fig. 4 )
(1) Test operation of governor weights and inspect weight springs for distortion.
(2) Lubricate governor weights.
(3) Inspect all bearing surfaces and pivot pins for roughness, binding or excessive looseness.
(4) Lubricate and install upper thrust washer (or washers) on the shaft and slide the shaft into the distributor body.
(5) If gear is worn or damaged, replace as follows:
(a) Install lower thrust washer and old gear on low- er end of shaft and temporarily install rollpin.
(b) Scribe a line on the end of shaft from center to edge, so line is centered between two gear teeth as shown in Figure 5. Do not Scribe completely across the shaft.
MyMopar.com
0
OF ROTOR ELECTRO
8-43
ALIGNMENT MARK
CONTACT PLATE
FELT
SHAFT ASSEMBLY
VACUUM
CHAMBER
(2)
NP895A
Fig. 5-Scribe Line on Distributor Shaft
(c) Remove rollpin and gear. Use a fine file to clean burrs from around pin hole.
(d) Install new gear with thrust washer in place with hole in gear rotated approximately 90 degrees from old hole in shaft and with scribed line centered between the two gear teeth as shown. If it appears that the new pin hole may interfere with the shaft oil groove, rotate gear to the centerline of the next pair of gear teeth, aligning again with scribe mark on the end of shaft.
(e) Before drilling through shaft and gear, place a
.007 feeler gauge between gear and thrust washer and after again observing that the centerline between two of the gear teeth is in line with centerline of rotor electrode (Fig. 6) drill a .124-.129 stall the rollpin.
CAUTION: Support hub of gear when installing roll pin so that gear teeth will not be damaged.
(6) Install contact plate assembly, align the con- denser lead, movable contact spring, primary lead, and install attaching screws.
(7) Attach vacuum advance unit arm to the con- tact plate.
(8) Install vacuum unit attaching screws and washers.
(9) Test contact arm spring tension.
PIN---”/ fig. 4-Dirtribuior Dis8smmbled View
PLATE
ASHER
NU477
(11) Lubricate the felt pad in top of distributor cam with 1 drop of light engine oil and install the rotor.
TESTING CONTACT ARM SPRING TENSION
(1) Hook a spring scale MTU-36 pull in a straight line at a right angle to the contact surfaces (Fig. 7). Take a reading as contacts start to separate under slow and steady pull of the scale.
MyMopar.com
8 4 4
ELECTRICAL-IGN IT10 N SYSTEM
0
CENTER LINE OF ROTOR ELECTRODE
ROTATED APPROX.
M A R K O N SHAR
CE'WER LINE GEAR TOOTH
NP896A
Fig. &Aligning Gear teeth with Centerline of Rotor Electrode
Spring tension should be 17 to 20 ounces. If reading is outside these limits, loosen the screw which holds the end of contact arm spring, and slide end of spring in or out, as necessary.
(2) Tighten screw and measure spring tension. Just the right amount of contact spring tension is very important for effective ignition and eficient engine performance. Spring tension that is too great, will cause excessive wear on distributor cam and on the nylon block of the movable contact arm. Spring ten= sion that i s too weak, i s unable to keep the contacts in contact with each other when they close. This i s particularly true as engine speed is increased, causing high-speed misfiring. continue to provide satisfactory service.
However, if the contact area is oily, mottled or dark in color, or is badly pitted, the contacts will soon be- come unsatisfactory for further operation. Not only must they be replaced, but the ignition system and engine must be checked to determine the cause of the trouble so it can be eliminated. Unless the condition causing contact burning or excessive pitting is cor- rected, new contacts will provide no better service than the old contacts.
Burning of Contacts
Contact burning will result from high primary voltage, presence of oil or other foreign material, de- fective condenser and improper contacts adjustment.
High voltage causes an excessively high current flow through the contacts which burns them rapidly. High voltage can result from an improperly adjusted or inoperative voltage regulator.
Oil or crankcase vapors which work up into the distributor and deposit on the contact surfaces will cause them to burn rapidly. This is easy to detect since the oil produces a smudgy line under the con- tacts. Clogged engine breather pipes permit crankcase pressure to force oil or vapors up into the distributor.
Over-oiling of the distributor will also cause burning.
If contact opening is too small (cam angle too large), arcing will occur between the contacts resulting in low secondary voltage and engine miss.
High series-resistance in the condenser circuit will prevent normal condenser action so the contacts will burn rapidly. This resistance may be caused by a loose condenser mounting or lead connection, or by poor connections inside the condenser.
Pitting of Contacts
Contact pitting results from the transfer of material from one contact to the other so that a tip builds up on one contact while a pit forms in the other.
A small amount of pitting in several thousand miles
DISTRIBUTOR CONTACTS
Contact Wear
Contacts which have undergone several thousand miles of operation will have a rough surface, but this should not be interpreted as meaning that contacts are worn out. If the contact area has a gray color and roughness between the contacts matches so that a large contact area is maintained, the contacts will
A
CONTACT ARM
NY703B
Fig. 7-Testing Contact Arm Tension Spring Fig. 8-Adjusting Contact Clearance with Indicator
MyMopar.com
A
- is normal and does not affect the distributor opera- tion. However, excessive pitting such as long sharp spikes is harmful and causes arcing and voltage loss.
Contacts with this condition should be replaced.
Excessive pitting can be due to too small a contact opening, high primary voltage or wrong condenser capacity. Inspect to be certain the condenser capacity is within the specified range of .25 to .285 MFD; con- tact spring tension should be 17 to 20 ounces and contact gap should be .017 to .023 inch.
INSTALLING AND ALIGNING CONTACTS
(1) Loosen the terminal screw nut, and remove pri- mary lead and condenser lead.
(2) Remove the stationary contact lock screw and remove the old contact set.
(3) Install a new contact set; the sleeve at one end of the adjustable bracket fits over and pivots on the upper contact plate mounting pin.
(4) Connect the condenser and primary leads.
(5) Align the contacts, if necessary, by bending the stationary contact bracket only. Never bend the movable contact arm to obtain alignment.
(6) After aligning the contacts, adjust contact clearance to “Specifications,” using dial indicator
(Fig. 8). Recheck the contact arm spring tension.
(7) Test the dwell angle to show proper degree of closure. See Paragraph, “Distributor Contact Dwell.”
The lock screw should be loosened just enough so that the stationary contact bracket can be moved with a slight drag; otherwise, it will be difficult to set the contacts accurately. After setting the contacts to the correct gap, tighten the stationary bracket lock screw.
DISTRIBUTOR LUBRICATION
(1) Lubricate the felt wick under the rotor in top of distributor cam with 1 drop of SAE 1OW oil.
(2) Wipe the distributor cam free of dirt and old grease with a clean lintless cloth. Apply a light film of new distributor cam lubricant Number 1473595 or equivalent over the entire cam surface. Lubricant must be able to adhere to the cam surface thereby resisting being thrown from the cam by centrifugal force, must not melt at operating temperatures and must not harden or dry out with age, must not chemi- cally react or be affected by ozone or cause corrosion or pitting of the metal, must possess moisture control properties to prevent rust formation on the cam.
CAUTION: A thin film is all that is required. Do not over-lubricate. Excess grease will be thrown from the distributor cam when engine i s running. If this grease strikes the contacts, arcing and burning of contacts will result.
DISTRIBUTOR ADVANCE TESTING
Centrifugal Advance Curve
Carefully mount distributor assembly (less cap and
8 4 5 rotor) in a reliable stroboscope-type distributor
tester
so that gear is not damaged and proceed with tests as follows:
(1) Turn the Tach-Dwell switch to the 6
LOBE
posi- tion and Motor Switch to correct direction of rotation.
Refer to “Distributor Advance Specifications” in this manual.
(2) Turn battery switch “ON.”
(3) Regulate tester speed control to operate distrib- utor at 200 distributor rpm.
(4) of distributor tester degree ring with any of the arrow flashes.
(5) Adjust tester speed control to operate distribu- tor at speeds called for under “Specifications” and observe arrow flashes opposite tester degree ring to determine degrees of advance.
(6) If advance is not according to specifications, replace with correct distributor shaft assembly (shaft, cam, yoke, governor weights as complete assembly) or distributor assembly, less cap and rotor.
Vacuum Diaphragm Leak Test
With distributor mounted in Distributor Tester and with vacuum unit attached to distributor, proceed as
.follows:
(1) Place thumb over end of vacuum pump hose and adjust the regulator control knob to give a read- ing of 20 inches of vacuum with hose closed off to be sure tester hose does not leak.
(2) Attach tester vacuum pump hose to the tube on vacuum unit. Vacuum gauge should hold on maxi- mum vacuum obtainable if no leaks exist.
(3) Observe breaker plate while performing leak test to test response of the breaker plate. There should be instant response to pull of the diaphragm, moving plate without a drag, bind or jerk in either direction.
(4) If leakage is indicated, replace vacuum unit as- sembly.
Vacuum Advance Curve
If only the vacuum advance curve is to be checked, connect tester vacuum pump hose to distributor vac- uum advance unit and perform operations 1 through as follows:
(1) Turn tester vacuum pump “ON.” Adjust vacu- um pump regulator to vacuum test specifications. See
“Specifications” and observe arrow flashes on tester degree ring to determine degrees of advance.
(2) If vacuum advance is below or above specifica- tions, replace the vacuum advance unit. Retest vacu- um advance curve.
D I
STR I B UT0
R
I N STALLATI 0 N
(1) Position distributor on engine. Make certain the rubber shank. in the groove of distributor
MyMopar.com
8-46
ELECTRICAL-IGNITION SYSTEM
0
(2) Carefully engage distributor drive gear with camshaft drive gear so that when distributor is in- stalled properly, rotor will be in line with previously scribed line on cylinder block. If engine has been cranked while distributor is removed, it will be neces- sary to establish proper relationship between the dis- tributor shaft and Number 1 piston position as fol- lows:
(a) Rotate the crankshaft until number one piston is at top of compression stroke. Mark on inner edge of crankshaft pulley should be in line with the
(TDC) mark on timing chain case cover.
“0”
(b) Rotate rotor to a position just ahead of the number one distributor cap terminal.
(c) Lower the distributor into the opening, engag- ing distributor gear with drive gear on camshaft.
With distributor fully seated on engine, rotor should be under the cap number 1 tower with distributor contacts just separating.
(3) Install the distributor cap (make sure all high tension wires “snap” firmly in the cap towers).
(4) Install hold-down arm screw and tighten finger tight.
(5) Attach primary lead wire to the coil. Do not connect distributor vacuum hose at this time.
(6) Connect secondary lead of Power Timing Light to the Number 1 spark plug (using proper adaptor) and red primary lead to the positive terminal of bat- tery with black primary lead to negative battery terminal. Do not puncture the cable cap nipples or spark plug covers to make a contact. Use proper adapters.
(7) Start engine and run engine at idle speed.
(8) Rotate distributor housing so that timing mark on crankshaft damper is aligned with specified degree mark on chain case cover. Refer to “Specifications”
(Moving distributor housing counter-clockwise ad- vances timing and clockwise retards timing).
(9) Tighten distributor hold down arm screw after timing has been set and recheck timing adjustment with a Power Timing Light.
(10) When timing is correct, connect vacuum hose to the distributor.
(11) Remove Power Timing Light from engine.
IGNITION COIL
The ignition coil is designed to operate with an external ballast resistor. When testing the coil for output, include resistor in tests. Inspect the coil for external leaks and arcing.
Test coil according to coil tester Manufacturer’s in- structions. Test coil primary resistance. Test ballast resistor resistance. Test coil secondary resistance. Re- place any coil or ballast resistor that does not meet specifications.
Every time an ignition coil is replaced because of a burned tower, carbon tracking, arcing at the tower, the nipple or any evidence of or boot on the coil end of the secondary cable, replace cable. Any arcing at the tower will carbonize the nipple so that placing it on a new coil will invariably cause another coil fail- ure.
If secondary cable shows any signs of damage, cable should be replaced with a new cable with a neo- prene nipple since the old cable can cause arcing, and therefore, ruin a new coil.
BALLAST R ESl STO
R
The ballast resistor is a compensating resistance in the ignition primary circuit. During low speed opera- tion, when primary circuit current flow is high, bal- last resistor temperature rises, increasing resistance.
This reduces current flow, thereby prolonging igni- tion contact life. At high speed operation, when pri- mary current flow is low, the ballast resistance cools off allowing more current flow, which is required for high speed operation. During starter operation, the ballast resistor is bypassed, allowing full battery volt- age to ignition primary circuit.
I G N I T I O N S Y S T E M CYLINDER
INDEX
Assembling the Distributor
Ballast Resistor
....................
...............................
Contact Arm Spring Tension Testing
Distributor Contact Dwell
Distributor Contacts
Distributor Disassembly
Distributor Lubrication
Distributor Installation
Distributor Removal
Dual Contacts
Dwell Variation
Page
............
53
......................
.......................
50
........................
...........................
Distributor Resistance Test
.................................
................................
51
56
49
54
55
55
50
48
49
49
General Information
Idle R.P.M. Test
Ignition Coil
Ignition Timing
Lubrication
Spark Plugs
................................
Installation and Aligning Contacts
...................................
Secondary Circuit Inspection
Service Diagnosis
...........................
..................
.............................
Shaft and Bushing Wear Test
..................
..................................
Testing Distributor Advance
....................
Page
47
49
56
50
54
55
47
47
50
56
55
MyMopar.com
0
GENERAL INFORMATION
The ignition system consists of two separate cir- cuits. The battery, ammeter, ignition switch, ballast resistor, primary winding of the ignition coil, distribu- tor contacts and condenser, vehicle frame, and pri-
I N
IT10 N SYSTEM-ELECTR ICAL
847 mary wiring make up the low voltage primary circuit.
The secondary high voltage circuit includes the coil secondary winding, distributor cap and rotor, spark plug cables, spark plugs and vehicle frame.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Condition
BURNED OR PITTED
DlSTRl BUTOR
CONTACTS
Possible Cause Correction
(a) Dirt or oil on contacts. (a) If oil is on contact face, determine cause and correct condition. Clean distributor cam of dirt and grease, a p ply a light film of distributor cam bricant to cam lobes; wipe off lu- excess.
See “Distributor Lubrication.” Re- place contact set and adjust a s nec- essary.
(b) Alternator voltage regulator setting (b) Test alternator voltage regulator set- too high. ting, adjust as necessary. Replace contact set and adjust a s necessary.
(c) Contacts misaligned or gap too small. (c) Align and adjust contacts.
(d) Faulty coil. (d) Test and replace coil if necessary. place and adjust contacts.
Re-
(e) Ballast resistor not in circuit.
(f) nect the coil.
Wrong condenser or faulty condenser. (f) Test condenser and replace if
(g) Faulty ignition switch.
(h) Bushings worn.
(9 Touching contacts with ing installation. the hands dur-
(e) Inspect conditions, and correctly con-
(i) Replace and adjust contacts. neces- sary. Replace and adjust contacts.
(g) Replace ignition switch.
(h) Replace housing*
IGNITION COIL
FA1 LU RE
(a) Coil damaged by excessive heat from (a) Replace coil. Inspect condition of the engine.
(b) Coil tower carbon-tracked.
(c) Oil leak at tower.
(b) distributor contacts.
Replace the coil.
(c) Replace the coil.
* Prestolite-Recondition distributor.
Secondary Circuit lnspection
Check high tension cable connections for good con- tact at the coil and distributor cap towers and at the spark plugs. Terminals should be fully seated. The nipples and spark plug covers should be in good con- dition. Nipples should fit tightly on the coil cap tow- ers and spark plug covers should fit tight around spark plug insulators. Cable connections that are loose will corrode and increase the resistance and permit water to enter the towers causing ignition malfunc- tion. To maintain proper sealing between the towers and nipples, cable and nipple assemblies should not be removed from the distributor or coil towers unless nipples are damaged or cable testing indicates high resistance or broken insulation.
Clean high tension cables with a cloth moistened with a non-flammable solvent and wipe dry. Bend cables to check for brittle or cracked insulation.
When testing secondary cables for punctures and cracks with an oscilloscope follow the instructions of
SERVICE PROCEDURES
the equipment manufacturers.
If an oscilloscope is not available, secondary cables can be tested as follows:
(a) Engine not running, connect one end of a test probe to a good ground, other end free for probing.
(b) Disconnect cable at spark plug end. Insulate cable end from grounding.
(c) With engine running, move test probe along entire length of wire. If punctures or cracks are present there will be a noticeable spark jump from the faulty area to the probe. Secondary coil wire may be checked in the same manner, be sure one spark plug cable is disconnected from spark plug while running probe along coil wire secondary cable.
Cracked, leaking or faulty cables should be replaced.
When installing new cable assemblies, install new high tension cable and nipple assembly over cap or coil tower, entering the terminal into the tower, push lightly, then pinch the large diameter of the nipple
(Fig. 1) to release trapped air between nipple and
MyMopar.com
8-48 ELECTR I C A L I G N IT10 N SYSTEM
0
Fig. I-Installing Secondary Cable and Wipple at
Distributor Cap Tower tower. Continue pushing on the cable and nipple until cables are properly seated in the cap towers. Use the same procedure to install cable in coil tower (Fig.
2).
Use the following procedure when removing the high tension cable from the spark plug. First, remove the cable from the retaining bracket. Then grasp the insulator as close as possible to the spark plug and use a straight and steady pull (Fig. 3). Do not use pliers and do not pull the cable at an angle. Doing so will damage the insulation, cable terminal or the spark plug insulator. Wipe spark plug insulator clean before reinstalling cable and cover.
Resistance type cable is identified by the words
“Electronic Suppression” printed on the cable jacket.
No additional resistors are necessary.
Use an ohmmeter to check resistance type cable for open circuits, loose terminals or high resistance as follows:
(a) Remove cable from spark plug and install the proper adapter between cable and spark plug.
(b) Lift distributor cap from distributor with cables
Fig. 2-Installing Secondary Cable and Nipple at Coil Tower
Fig. 3-Removing Secondary Cable and Covor from Spark Plug (Typical) intact. Do not remove cables from cap.
(c) Connect the ohmmeter between spark plug adapter and the corresponding electrode inside the cap, making sure ohmmeter probes are in good con- tact. If resistance is more than 30,000 ohms, remove cable at cap tower and check the cable resistance. If resistance is more than 30,000 ohms, replace cable assembly. Test all spark plug cables in same manner.
To test coil to distributor cap high tension cable, re- move distributor cap with the cable intact. Do not remove cable from the coil or cap. Connect the ohm- meter between center contact in the cap and either primary terminal at coil. If the combined resistance of coil and cable is more than 25,000 ohms, remove the cable at coil tower and check cable resistance. If resistance is more than 15,000 ohms, replace the cable. If resistance is less, check for a loose connec- tion at the tower or for a faulty coil.
Inspect coil tower for cracks, carbon tracking or oil leaks.
DISTRIBUTOR RESISTANCE TEST
This test indicates the resistance of the ignition primary circuit from the distributor side of the coil, through the points and the distributor ground. Exces- sive resistance in this portion of the ignition system will prevent the coil from producing sufficient output for good over-all ignition. To perform test, proceed as follows:
(1) Turn Selector Switch of a Tach-Dwell unit to
CALIBRATE position and adjust Dwell Calibrator un- til Dwell Meter reads on the set line (test leads sepa- rated).
(2) Leave Selector Switch in CALIBRATE position, connect Tach-Dwell red lead to distributor terminal of coil and black lead to a good ground.
(3) Turn ignition switch “ON.” Observe dwell meter reading. Meter pointer should be well within bar marked “DISTRIBUTOR RESISTANCE.” If read- ing is zero or outside of bar, crank engine with the starter until meter pointer moves as far to right as possible. (This will indicate that contacts are closed.)
MyMopar.com
0
G
N IT10
N SY STE M-ELECTR
I
C AL
8-49
A reading now within the bar indicates a normal dis- tributor primary circuit.
If reading is outside the bar, high resistance is present in distributor primary circuit.
(4) Remove test lead from distributor terminal of coil and connect to the following points:
(a) Distributor primary terminal (outside).
(b) Distributor primary terminal (inside).
(c) Contact terminal bracket (insulated bracket).
(d) Ground side of the contacts.
(e) Distributor housing.
(5) Repeat test at each connection until a notice able change occurs in the meter reading. If a poor connection or faulty lead is indicated, clean, tighten or replace as necessary and repeat test (3).
If faulty contacts are indicated remove distrib- utor for complete inspection, service, testing and cali- bration.
(2) Connect Tach-Dwell red lead to distributor terminal of coil and black lead to a good ground.
(3) Turn Selector Switch to 8 LOBE position.
(4) Start engine and operate engine at idle speed.
(5) Observe dwell meter reading. If the dwell read- ing is within “Specifications” the contact gap, cam rubbing block and contact arm are all in satisfactory condition.
If dwell reading is not within specifications, incor- rect contact gap, worn cam, worn rubbing block or distorted contact arm may be indicated.
DUAL CONTACTS
IDLE RPM TEST
Engine idle rpm setting should be tested and re- corded as it is when the vehicle is first brought into the shop for testing. This will assist in diagnosing complaints of engine stalling, creeping and hard shift- ing on vehicles equipped with automatic transmis- sions.
Test procedures are as follows:
(1) Turn Selector Switch to CALIBRATE position and adjust Dwell Calibrator until Dwell Meter reads on SET line (test leads separated).
(2) Connect red lead of the test unit to distributor primary terminal at coil and black lead to a good ground.
(3) Turn Sdector Switch to 8 LOBE position.
(4) Turn the Tach-Dwell RPM Switch to the 1000 rpm position.
(5) With engine at normal operating temperature
(off fast idle), momentarily open the throttle and re- lease to make sure there is no bind in the linkage and that idle speed screw is against its stop.
(6) Note engine RPM on 1000 RPM scale and adjust carburetor idle speed to specifications. See “Fuel Sus- tem” specifications.
DISTRIBUTOR CONTACT DWELL
The degrees of distributor dwell are the degrees of rotation through which the contacts remain closed.
This is also commonly referred to as “dwell angle” or
“cam angle.”
The correct distributor point dwell is essential for good ignition performance and contact point life.
Test procedures are as follows:
(1) Disconnect vacuum line.
Block one set of contacts with a clean insulator and adjust the opposite set of contacts to specifications using the dwell meter. Loosen stationary contact lock screw just enough, so stationary contact can be moved with a slight drag; otherwise it will be difficult to set contacts accurately.
When one set of contacts has been adjusted for correct clearance tighten stationary contact lock screw.
Block adjusted set of contacts with an insulator and adjust remaining set of contacts in the same manner as the first set. Remove insulator and recheck tight- ness of stationary contact lock screw.
If contacts have been properly adjusted the dwell should be as specified for two contact sets.
DWELL VARIATION
This test indicates the mechanical condition of the distributor. Excessive wear in distributor mechanical parts cause dwell variations which will affect ignition timing.
Test procedures are as follows:
(1) With engine at idle speed, vacuum hose discon- nected, and test leads connected as in “Contact Dwell
Test,” turn Tach-Dwell RPM Switch to the 5,000 RPM position.
(2) Slowly increase engine speed to 1500 RPM then slowly reduce to idle speed while observing dwell meter reading.
If dwell reading varies more than 2 degrees from initial reading between idle speed and 1500 RPM, probable wear in the distributor shaft, bushings or contact plate bearing and pivot pin is indicated. Re- move distributor for complete inspection and testing on a distributor tester. Dwell variation at speeds above 1500 does not necessarily indicate distributor wear. Dwell and gap of the contacts must both within their specified limits at the same time. If be this cannot be accomplished, it i s probable that wrong contacts are installed or the rubbing block or cam lobes are badly worn or movable contact is distorted.
MyMopar.com
8-50
EL ECTR
IC
A L-I G N IT1 0 N SYSTEM
n
IGNITION TIMING
To obtain maximum engine performance, the dis- tributor must be correctly positioned on the engine to give proper ignition timing.
The ignition timing test will indicate the timing of the spark at No. 1
Test procedures are as follows:
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose at distributor.
(2) Connect secondary lead of Power Timing Light to No. 1 spark plug, red primary lead to positive ter- minal of battery and black primary lead to negative battery terminal. Do not puncture cables, boots or nipples with test probes. Always use proper adapters.
Puncturing the spark plug cables with a probe will damage the cables. The probe can separate the con- ductor and cause high resistance. In addition break- ing the rubber insulation may permit secondary cur- rent to arc to ground.
(3) Start engine and set
(Transmission in Neutral). idle to “Specifications”
(4) Loosen distributor hold-down arm screw just enough so distributor housing can be rotated in its mounting.
(5)
Aim
Power Timing Light at timing plate on chain case cover. If light flash occurs when timing mark on vibration damper is located ahead of speci- fied degree mark on timing plate in the direction of engine rotation, timing is advanced. To adjust, turn distributor housing in direction of rotor rotation.
If flash occurs when the vibration timing mark is located past the specified degree mark in the direc- tion of engine rotation, timing is retarded. To adjust, turn distributor housing against direction of rotor ro- tation. Refer to “Specification.” (Moving the distribu- tor housing against shaft rotation advances timing and with shaft rotation retards timing.
(6) Tighten distributor hold-down arm screw after timing has been set and recheck timing adjustment with a Power Timing Light.
(7) When ignition timing is correct, reconnect vac- uum hose to distributor.
lgnition
Timing (with C-744 Tesf Lamp)
(1) Connect C-744 test lamp between distributor primary terminal and battery positive post.
(2) Turn engine until number 6 exhaust valve is just closing; continue turning engine slowly until specified degree mark on the crankshaft pulley is at specified degree .mark at timing case cover.
(3) Loosen distributor clamp bolt so distributor housing can be rotated with a slight drag, then turn distributor in the normal rotation until test lamp lights.
(4) Turn distributor against normal distributor ro- tation until test lamp goes out. I f test lamp lights immediately when connected, turn distributor against normal distributor rotation until light goes out.
(5) Tighten distributor clamp bolt securely and re- move test lamp. If the operation is performed proper- ly the engine is timed to specifications. If engine i s turned beyond the timing mark, continue turning engine for two full revolutions of the crankshaft; this will place the distributor rotor in approximately the initial position.
CAUTION: DO NOT reverse rotation of the crank- shaft, if you have passed the timing mark as this would affect valve timing and distributor timing.
DISTRIBUTOR REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose at distributor.
(2) Disconnect primary lead wire at coil.
(3) Unfasten distributor cap retaining clips and lift off distributor cap.
(4) Scribe a mark on the edge of distributor hous- ing to indicate position of the rotor as reference when reinstalling distributor.
( 5 ) Remove distributor hold-down clamp screw and clamp.
(6) Carefully lift distributor from engine.
SHAFT AND BUSHING WEAR TEST
(1) Remove distributor rotor.
(2) Disconnect primary lead wire at distributor terminal. DO NOT LOOSEN inner nut that holds movable contact arm tension spring to terminal post.
(3) Clamp the ribbed section of distributor housing lightly in a vise equipped with soft jaws and attach dial indicator to body of distributor with the indicator plunger arm resting against movable contact arm at the rubbing block and with the rubbing block of con- tact arm on the highest point of cam lobe (Fig. 4).
(4) Place one end of a wire loop around the top of distributor shaft. Hook a spring scale in the other end of wire loop and pull on a line with the plunger of indicator gauge. Be sure wire loop on shaft end is down on the shaft to insure a straight pull and also that wire loop does not interfere with indicator or holding bracket. Apply a five pound pull and read the movement of plunger on indicator dial. (Be sure rub- bing block of contact arm is on highest point of the cam lobe during this test.) If plunger movement ex- ceeds .006 inch, replace bushings and/or distributor shaft, see “Distributor Disassembly.”
DISTRIBUTOR DISASSEMBLY (Figs.
5 and
6)
(1) Remove distributor rotor. The distributor cap clamp springs on Chrysler built distributors are held
MyMopar.com
0
IGNITION SYSTEM-ELECTRICAL
8-51
I
ND326
Fig. 4-Shaft and Bushing Wear Test in place by peened metal around the openings and should not be removed.
(2) Remove the retainer attaching vacuum advance unit to the contact plate advance arm (Prestolite).
(3) Remove the two screws and lockwashers attach- ing vacuum advance unit to distributor housing and remove the advance unit.
(4) Remove primary lead wire and rubber grommet as an assembly. Push grommet towards inside of dis- tributor to remove. Do not pull on the wire.
(5) Remove two screws, and lockwashers attaching the contact plate to housing and lift out the contact plate, contacts and condenser as an assembly.
(6) Remove oil wick from the distributor cam well.
Remove spring clip from oil well in cam and re- move cam and yoke assembly and spacer (Prestolite).
(7) If side play exceeded .006 inch in “Shaft and
Bushing Wear Test,” (Chrysler Built distributors) re- place housing and bushings or shaft and cam assem- bly as necessary. Prestolite distributors replace bush- ing and/or distributor shaft as follows:
(a) Remove distributor drive collar retaining pin and slide collar off end of shaft.
(b) Use a fine file to clean burrs from around pin hole in the shaft and remove lower thrust washer.
(c) Push shaft up and remove it through the top of distributor body. Remove upper thrust washer.
(d) Remove shaft oiler and lift out oiler wick.
(e) Place housing in an arbor press and press out upper and lower bushings from bottom of housing using Driver Tool C-3041 (Fig. 7).
( f ) Soak new bushings in light engine oil for ap- proximately 15 minutes.
(g) Position new upper bushing with hole in bush- ing up and in line with oil hole in housing, then press bushing into distributor housing with Tool C-3041 and tool adapter until adapter bottoms on housing. The bushing will measure .094 inch below the top of the housing bore (Fig. 8). Place a straight-edge on ma- chined surface of housing and measure from bottom face of straight-edge to the top of the bushing. Invert housing and install other bushing flush with the face of distributor base (Fig. 9).
(h) Insert a 3/32 inch rod through housing oiler hole to see if the hole in bushing indexes with oiler hole in the housing. If rod cannot be inserted through the housing and bushing, drill a 1/8” hole through the upper bushing by drilling through the oil wick hole. Remove burrs caused by drilling operation.
(i) Install burnishing tool part of C-3041 tool set and force the burnisher through both bushings (Fig.
10). Correct bushing inside diameter is .4995 to .5000 inch.
ASSEMBLING THE DISTRIBUTOR
(1) Test operation of governor weights and inspect weight springs for distortion. Lubricate governor weights.
(2) Inspect all bearing surfaces and pivot pins for roughness, binding or excessive looseness.
(3) Install cam spacer, chamfered end down on dis- tributor shaft, (Prestolite only).
(4) Slide cam and yoke on distributor shaft, engage weight lugs with slots in the yoke. Install cam retain- ing spring clip. Be sure it is properly seated in the groove of distributor shaft, (Prestolite only).
(5) Lubricate and install flat thrust washer. Posi-
MyMopar.com
0 8-52
E LECTR
I C A L I N 0 N
SYSTEM
FELT a
LEAD
-
SPRING k-
CONTACT
ROTOR
-SNAP
CONTACT PLATE
XREW
WASHER
SCREW
BREAKER PLATE
RING
FELT
SNAP RING
cm
SPRING SET
--
CONTACT SET
WASHER
SCREW
'
LEAD
WEIGHT
WASHER
BEARING
HOUSING
C M P
WASHER
XREW
OILER
CLAMP
-/;
/'-PIN NU476
Fig. S-Dl~riburor-(Disussornblod V i m k
Chryskr Built
BUSHING
COLLAR fig. 6-DisWbutor fDlsassombled Viow)-Prosrolbo
MyMopar.com
0
IGNITION SYSTEM-ELECTRICAL 8-53
I
Fig. 7-Removing Distributor Drive Shaft Bushings tion washer on distributor shaft and slide shaft into distributor body. Position lower thrust washer and drive the collar on the lower end of shaft. Install tainer pin.
(6) Install oiler wick and oiler, (Prestolite only). re-
(7) Install contact plate assembly. Align condenser lead, contact point spring, primary lead and install attaching screw.
(8) Install felt wick in the top of distributor cam.
(9) Attach vacuum advance unit arm to contact plate and install the retainer (Prestolite only). Install vacuum unit attaching screws and washers.
(10) Test contact arm spring tension, and adjust contact gap.
Fig. 9--lnstalling lower Bushing
(11) Lubricate felt pad in the top of distributor cam with 1 drop of light engine oil and install rotor.
CONTACT ARM SPRING TENSION
(1) Hook a spring scale Tool MTU-36 on the breaker arm and pull in a straight line at a right angle to the contact surfaces (Fig. 11). contacts start to separate under the slow and steady pull of the scale. Spring tension should be as shown in specifications. If the reading is outside these limits, loosen the screw which holds the end of the contact arm spring, and slide the end of the spring in as necessary. or out,
(2) Tighten the screw and measure the spring tension. Just the right amount of contact spring ten- sion is very important for effective ignition and ef- ficient engine performance. Spring tension that i s too great, will cause excessive wear on the distributor cam and on the nylon block of the movable contact
Fig. O--lnstalling Upper Bushing Fig. IO-Burnishing Distributor Drive Shaft Bushings
MyMopar.com
8-54
E LECTR ICAL-I G N
If1
N SYSTEM
0
CONTACT ARM
AND SPRING
NB154C
Fig. I I -Testing Contact Arm Spring Tension arm. Spring tension that i s too weak, is unable to keep the contacts in contact with each other when they close. This is particularly true as engine speed is increased, causing high-speed misfiring.
DISTRIBUTOR CONTACTS
Contact Wear
Contacts which have undergone several thousand miles of operation will have a rough surface, but this should not be interpreted as meaning that the con- tacts are worn out. If the contact area has a gray color and the roughness between the contacts matches so that a large contact area is maintained, the contacts will continue to provide satisfactory service.
However, if the contact area is oily, mottled or dark in color, or is badly pitted, the contacts will soon be- come unsatisfactory for further operation. Not only must they be replaced, but the ignition system and engine must be checked to determine the cause of the trouble so it can be eliminated. Unless the condition causing contact burning or excessive pitting is cor- rected, new contacts will provide no better service than the old contacts.
Burning of Contacts
Contact burning will result from high primary volt- age, presence of oil or other foreign material, defec- tive condenser and improper contacts adjustment.
High voltage causes an excessively high current flow through the contacts which burns them rapidly. High voltage can result from an improperly adjusted or inoperative voltage regulator.
Oil or crankcase vapors which work up into the distributor and deposit on the contact surfaces will cause them to burn rapidly. This is easy to detect since the oil produces a smudgy line under the con- tacts. Clogged engine breather pipes permit crankcase pressure to force oil or vapors up into the distributor.
Over-oiling of the distributor will also cause burning of the contacts.
If the contact opening is too small (cam angle too large), arcing will occur between the contacts result- ing in low secondary voltage and engine miss.
High series-resistance in the condenser circuit will prevent normal condenser action so the contacts will burn rapidly. This resistance may be caused by a loose condenser mounting or lead connection, or by poor connections inside the condenser.
Piff ing of Contacts
Contact pitting results from the transfer of material from one contact to the other so that a tip builds rip on one contact while a pit forms in the other.
A small amount of pitting in several thousand miles is normal and does not affect the distributor opera- tion. However, excessive pitting such as long sharp spikes is harmful and causes arcing and voltage loss.
Contacts with this condition should be replaced.
Excessive pitting can be due to too small a contact opening, high primary voltage or wrong condenser capacity. Inspect to be certain the condenser capacity is within the specified range of .25 to .285 MFD; tact spring tension should be 17 to 20 ounces Chrysler built, (17 to 21.5 ounces Prestolite.) Contact gap should be .014 .019 inch.
INSTALLING AND ALIGNING CONTACTS
(1) Loosen terminal screw nut, and remove primary lead and condenser lead. re- move old contact set.
(3) Install a new contact set; the sleeve at one end of adjustable bracket fits over and pivots on upper contact plate mounting pin.
(4) Connect condenser and primary leads.
(5) if necessary, by bending station- ary contact bracket only. Never bend movable contact arm to obtain alignment.
(6) After aligning contacts, adjust contact clear- ance to “Specifications,” using dial indicator (Fig. 12).
Recheck contact arm spring tension.
NB1488
Fig. I2-Adjusting Contad Clearance with lndicotor
MyMopar.com
0 sure. See Paragraph, “Distributor Contact Dwell.”
The lock screw should be loosened just enough so stationary contact bracket can be moved with
a
slight drag; otherwise, it will be difficult to set con- tacts accurately. After setting contacts to the correct gap, tighten stationary bracket lock screw.
Dl STRl B UT0
R
LU B R ICATION
(1) Add 3 drops of SAE 1OW oil to the oiler on outside of distributor base, (Prestolite only).
(2) Lubricate felt wick under the rotor in top of distributor cam with 1 drop of SAE 1OW oil.
(3) Wipe the distributor cam free of dirt and old grease with a clean lintless cloth. Apply a light film of new distributor cam lubricant Number 1473595 or equivalent over the entire cam surface. Lubricant must be able to adhere to the cam surface thereby resisting being thrown from the cam by centrifugal force, must not melt at operating temperatures and must not harden or dry out with age, must not chem- ically react or be affected by ozone or cause corrosion or pitting of the metal, must possess moisture control properties to prevent rust formation on the cam.
CAUTION: A thin film is all that is required. Do not over-lubricate. Excess grease will be thrown from the distributor cam when engine is running. If this grease strikes the contacts, arcing and burning of contacts will result.
TESTING DISTRIBUTOR ADVANCE
Centrifugal Advance Curve
Mount distributor assembly (less cap and rotor) in a reliable stroboscope-type distributor tester and pro- ceed with tests as follows: Clamp around ribbed sec- tion of distributor housing. The bottom section of distributor housing is not a machined surface and concentricity would be affected, causing a wobble.
(1) Turn Tach-Dwell switch to 8 “LOBE” position and Motor Switch to correct direction of rotation. Re- fer to “Distributor Specifications” in this manual.
(2) Turn battery switch “ON.”
(3) Regulate tester speed control to operate distrib- utor at 200 distributor rpm.
(4) Align the of the distributor tester degree ring with any one of the arrow flashes.
(5) Adjust tester speed control to operate distribu- tor at speeds called for under “Specifications” and observe arrow flashes opposite tester degree ring to determine degrees of advance.
(6) If advance is not according to specifications, re- place with a new distributor shaft with correct Cali- bration (shaft, cam, yoke, governor weights and springs as an assembly) or with a new distributor as- sembly, less cap and rotor.
For Prestolite distributors corrections can be at-
IGNITION SYSTEM-ELECTRICAL
8-55 tempted by bending the prigary and secondary spring tabs on the cam yoke to increase or decrease spring tension.
DO NOT attempt calibration of Chryrler built dis- tri butors.
Vacuum Diaphragm Leak Test
With distributor mounted in distributor tester and with vacuum unit attached to distributor, proceed as follows:
(1) Place thumb over end of vacuum pump and hose and adjust regulator control knob to give a read- ing of 20 inches with hose closed off to be sure tester hose does not leak.
(2) Attach tester vacuum pump hose to the tube on the distributor vacuum unit. The vacuum gauge should hold on maximum vacuum obtainable if no leak exists.
(3) Observe contact plate while performing leak test to test response of contact plate. There should be instant response to the pull of the diaphragm, moving the plate without a drag or bind.
(4) If sembly. leakage is indicated, replace vacuum unit as-
Vacuum Advance Curve
Connect tester vacuum pump hose to the distribu- tor vacuum advance unit and perform operations 1 through 4 under “Centrifugal Advance Curve.’’ Then proceed as follows:
(1) Turn tester vacuum pump
“ON.”
Adjust vacuum pump regulator to vacuum test specifications.
See “Specifications” and observe arrow flashes on tester degree ring to determine degrees of advance.
(2) If vacuum advance is above or below specifica- tions, replace vacuum advance unit. Retest vacuum advance curve.
D
I
STR
I
B
UT0 R
I
N STA LLATl 0 N
(1) Position distributor on engine. Align rotor with marks previously scribed on distributor housing. Clean top of cylinder block to insure a good seal betweem distributor base and block.
(2) Engage tongue of distributor shaft with slot in distributor and oil pump drive gear. If engine has been cranked while distributor is removed, it will be necessary to establish the proper relationship between distributor shaft and NO. 1 piston position as follows:
(a) Rotate crankshaft until number one piston is at top of compression stroke.
(b) Rotate rotor to the position of number one dis- tributor cap terminal.
(c) Lower distributor into the opening, connect primary lead and install distributor cap. Make sure all high tension wires “snap”
firm
in cap towers. Install distributor hold-down clamp screw. Tighten screw finger tight.
MyMopar.com
8-56
ELECTRICAL46
N
IT10 N SYSTEM
0
(d) Connect secondary lead of a Power Timing
Light to NO. 1 spark plug (using proper adapter).
Connect red primary lead to positive terminal of bat- tery and black primary lead to negative battery terminal.
(e) Start and operate engine at idle speed. Rotate distributor housing so that specified timing mark and pointer are in alignment (Moving the distributor hous- ing against shaft rotation advances timing and with shaft rotation retards timing).
(f) Tighten distributor clamp screw after timing has been set and recheck timing adjustment with a
Power Timing Light.
(g) If timing is correct, connect vacuum hose to distributor and remove timing light from engine.
IGNITION COIL
The ignition coil is designed to operate with an external ballast resistor. When testing the coil for output, include resistor in tests.
Inspect coil for external leaks and arcing. Always make two tests when testing the coil. One when the coil is cold, the other after the coil has been warmed
UP-
Test coil according to coil tester Manufacturer’s in- structions, Test coil primary resistance. Test ballast resistor resistance. Test coil secondary resistance. Re- place any coil and ballast resistor that does not meet specifications.
Every time an ignition coil is replaced because of a burned tower, carbon tracking or any evidence of arc- ing at the tower, the nipple or boot on the coil end of the secondary cable, replace cable. Any arcing at the tower will carbonize the nipple so that placing it on a new coil will invariably cause another coil failure.
If the secondary cable shows any signs of damage, the cable should be replaced with a new cable with a neoprene nipple since the old cable can cause arc- ing, and therefore, ruin a new coil.
BALLAST RESISTOR
The ballast resistor is a compensating resistance in the ignition primary circuit. During low speed opera- tion, when the primary circuit current flow is high, ballast resistor temperature rises, increasing resist- ance. This reduces current flow, thereby prolonging ignition contact life. At high speed operation, when primary current‘ flow is low, the ballast resistance cools off allowing more current flow, which is re- quired for high speed operation. During starter oper- ation, the ballast resistor is bypassed, allowing full battery voltage to the ignition primary circuit.
SPARK PLUGS
Spark plug appearance or conditions can reflect a wide variety of engine conditions as follows:
Fig. 1-Normal Conditions Fig. 2-Cold Fouling
Normal Conditions
Normal conditions (Fig. 1).
This
plug has been run- ning at the correct temperature in a “healthy” en- gine. The few deposits present will probably be light tan or gray in color with most regular grades of com- mercial gasoline. Electrode burning will not be in evi- dence; gap growth will average not more than about could be cleaned, the gap electrodes filed, regapped and reinstalled with good results.
Cold Fouling
Cold fouling or carbon deposits (Fig. 2). This dry black appearance is fuel carbon and can be due to over rich fuel-air mixture, possibly resulting from a faulty choke, clogged air cleaner, improper carbu- retor idle adjustment, or dirty carburetor. However, if only one or two plugs in a set are fouled like this it is a good idea to check for sticking valves or faulty igni- tion cables. This condition also results from prolonged operation at idle. If the vehicle is operated extensively at idle and low speeds, improved plug service will be obtained by using the next step hotter spark plugs.
Wet Fouling
Wet fouling (Fig. 3) tells you that the plug has drowned in excess oil. In an old engine, suspect worn rings or excessive cylinder wear. Use of a hotter plug may relieve such fouling, but plugs can’t take the place of needed engine overhaul. Remember that
“break-in” fouling of new engines may occur before
Fig. 3-Wet Fouling Fig. 4-Overheating
MyMopar.com
0
Condition
HEADLIGHTS DIM
(engine running above idle)
LIGHTS FLICKER
H EADLl
G
HTS-ELECTRICAL
8-57 normal oil control is achieved. In new or recently overhauled i d s , such fouling plugs can be cleaned and reinstalled.
Overheating
Overheating (Fig. 4) is indicated bY a White
O r light
@aY insulator which appears “blistered.” Electrode gap wear rate will be COn!Merable in excess of
.001”/1000 miles. This suggests that a cooler heat range should be used
. . . however, over-advanced ignition timing, detonation and cooling system stop- pages can also overheat the correct spark plug heat ranges.
Cleaning and Regapping
Carefully clean the spark plugs in an abrasive type cleaner. Use a pin type feeler gauge to check spark plug gap. Reset gaps to .035 inch. Before wtting spark plug gap, file center electrode flat, make adjustment by bending ground (side) electrode, never bend the center electrode.
When installing spark plugs, tighten to 30 foot- pounds.
EXTERIOR LIGHTING
HEADLIGHTS
INDEX
Compensating the Aimers
General Information
......................
58 Service Diagnosis
...........................
Headlight Sealed-Beam Replacement
Measuring Headlight Aim
Mounting and Adjusting the
Pre-Aiming Instructions
Aimers
...........
............
........................
Page
57
60
59
59
58
Switch
Testing
....................
See “Instrument Panel”
Aimer
Visual Headlight Adjustment
(Without Aimers)
.............................
Calibration
......................
............................
Page
57
58
60
GENERAL INFORMATION
Dual Headlight System-Coronet and
Charger Models
The dual headlight system consists of four sealed beam bulbs. The two outer bulbs are of the two fila- ment type for low and high beam and are marked by a numeral (2) molded in the lens. The two inner bulbs have only one filament and are marked with a num- eral (1) molded in the glass.
The bulbs cannot be installed wrong as the mount- ing lugs for the number one (1) and number two (2) bulbs are offset at different angles.
On high beam, the number (1) bulbs provide the high intensity “reach” down the highway and the off focus filament in the number (2) bulbs provide the
“body” light which illuminates the side of the road, ditches, etc. On low beam, only the number two (2) bulbs operate.
Single Headlight System-Dart
Models
The single beam system consists of two sealed beam bulbs. The bulbs are the two filament type for low and high beam and are marked by a number (2) molded in the lens.
The low beam is intended for use in congested areas and on highways when meeting other vehicles within a distance of 500 feet. The high beam is in- tended primarily for distant illumination and for use on the open highway when not meeting other vehicles.
Manual on and off operation is controlled by a switch mounted on the far left of the instrument panel while manual operation of the high-low beam is controlled with a foot operated dimmer switch mounted on the left side of the floor pan.
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause Correction
(a) High resistance
(b) in lighting circuit.
Faulty sealed beam units.
(c) Faulty voltage regulator.
(a) Test lighting circuit including ground connection. Make necessary repairs.
(b) Replace sealed beam units.
(c) Test voltage regulator and alternator.
Make necessary repairs.
(a) Loose connections or damaged
(b) in lighting circuit. ducing momentary short. wires (a) Tighten connections and damaged wiring. aged wires. check for
Light wiring insulation damaged pro- (b) Test wiring and replace or tape dam-
MyMopar.com
8-58
ELECTRICAL-H EADLIGHTS
Condition
LIGHTS BURN OUT
FREQUENTLY
LIGHTS WILL
LIGHT
NOT
HEADLIGHTS DIM
(engine idling or shut off)
0
Porri ble Cause Correction
(a) High voltage regulator setting.
(b) Loose connections in light circuit.
(a)
(b)
Adjust voltage regulator.
Tighten connections.
(a) Discharged battery.
(b)
(a
1
Loose connections in lighting circuit. (b)
(c) Burned out lamps.
(d) Open or corroded contacts light switch. in head-
(C)
(d)
Recharge battery and correct cause.
Tighten connections.
Replace bulbs or sealed beam unit.
Replace head I ig ht switch.
(e) Open or corroded contact in dimmer (e) switch.
Replace dimmer switch.
Partly disc ha rged battery.
Faulty battery.
(a
1
(b)
Charge battery.
Test battery. Replace if necessary.
High resistance in light circuit.
Faulty sealed beam units.
Corroded battery terminals.
(C)
(d 1
Test headlight repairs.
Replace sealed beam
(e) Clean terminals. circuit units. including ground connection. Make necessary
PRE-AI MI N G INSTRUCTIONS
SERVICE PROCEDURES
(1) Test dimmer switch operation.
(2) Observe operation of high beam indicator light mounted in instrument cluster.
(3) Inspect for badly rusted or faulty headlight as- semblies. These conditions must be corrected before a satisfactory adjustment can be made.
(5) Adjust front suspension height as necessary.
(6) Inspect tire inflation.
(7) Rock vehicle sideways to allow vehicle to assume its normal position.
(8) If gasoline tank is not full, place a weight in trunk of vehicle to simulate weight of a full tank (6-
1/4 pounds per gallon).
(9) There should be no other load in vehicle other than driver or substituted weight of approximately
150 pounds placed in driver’s position.
(10) Remove each headlight trim panel. Do not re- move sealed beam retainer rims.
(1 Thoroughly clean headlight lenses.
“minus” reading on compensator scale. This figure indicates degree of slope of floor and must be trans- ferred to each aimer.
(5) With a screw driver, turn adjusting slot of floor level compensator in each aimer, until correct plus
or
minus figure (or window (Fig. 2). fractional part) appears in proper
TESTING AIMER CALIBRATION (Fig.
3)
(1) Using carpenter or stone mason level of known accuracy, locate a true vertical plate glass window smooth surface. or
(2) Set DOWN-UP pointer on DOWN 2.
(3) Set RIGHT-LEFT pointer and floor level com- pensator at “0.” or smooth surface three to five feet apart so split image targets can be located in viewing ports.
(5) If bubble is centered in glass dial, vertical cali- bration is correct. If bubble is not centered, make
DOWN-UP adjustment by rotating level adjusting screw until bubble is centered in spirit level.
COMPENSATING THE AIMERS
(1) Place transit on floor in line with vertical centerline of right front wheel (Fig. 1). Place split image target in like position at right rear wheel.
(2) Adjust range screw on transit until target split image coincides or merges into one unbroken line.
Make sure that the line of sight i s perpendicular from the eye to the viewing port of the transit and that the target image is centered in viewing port of transit.
(3) Turn dial on side of transit until bubble in spirit level is centered. is centered, note “plus” or
.
NH638 RANGE SCREW
Fig. I-Determining Slop. of Floor
MyMopar.com
a
A
I
I
I
HEADLIGHTS-ELECTRICAL 8-59
HORIZONTAL ADJUSTING
VERTICAL ADJUSTING
SCREW
SCREW
\
RELEASE LEVER
KU433
Fig. 2-Adjusting Floor Level Compensators
(6) The horizontal aim is correct if targets on oppo- site aimers are aligned in viewing ports. If targets are not aligned in viewing ports, rotate mirror adjusting screw until target split image becomes aligned.
MOUNTING AND ADJUSTING THE AIMERS
(1) While holding an aimer in alignment with lens of one headlight on Dart models or the number (2) lens on Coronet and Charger models, bring aimer up to and against headlight lens. Make certain that head- light lens pads are making full contact with aimer mounting flange and that aimer target is facing in- board.
(2) Push release lever forward (to expel air from suction cup) and while holding aimer firmly against headlight aiming pads, slowly pull release lever back until spring lock engages in the slot, (Fig. 4).
(3) Mount second aimer on other side of vehicle, in same manner.
(4) On each aimer, set pointer to numeral 2 on
DOWN side of the DOWN-UP scale.
LEVEL (SPIRIT)
Fig. 3-Checking Aimer Calibrcrtion
Fig. 4-Mounting and Adjusting Aimers
(5) On each aimer position the pointer, of the
RIGHT-LEFT scale, at 2-RIGHT.
MEASURING HEADLIGHT AIM
Horizontal Test
Turn the image is in alignment. If the RIGHT or LEFT por- tion of scale exceeds the following values, the lights should be aimed.
No.
1
Values given represent inches at 25 feet.
Unit
No. 2 Unit
......................
......................
Left Right
4
0
4
4
Vertical Test
Turn DOWN-UP scale knob until the spirit level is centered. If Down or Up portion of the scale exceeds the following values, the lights should be aimed.
No. 1 Unit
No. 2 Unit
......................
1/2 to 3-1/2
......................
1/2 to down
3-1/2
Horizontal Adjustment
(1) With pointer of RIGHT-LEFT scale still set 2-
RIGHT, sight through aimer viewing port.
Make sure that line of sight is perpendicular from eye to viewing port of aimer and that target image is centered in viewing port of aimer.
(2) While sighting through viewing port of aimer, turn horizontal adjusting screw on headlight until split target image line merges into one unbroken line.
To remove backlash, be sure to make a final adjust- ment by turning headlight horizontal adjusting screw in a clockwise direction, (Fig. 5).
(3) Make horizontal adjustment on other side of vehicle in same manner.
Vertical Adjustment
(1) Turn vertical adjusting screw on headlight in counterclockwise direction to bring bubble of spirit level on aimer to vehicle side of center. Use care to avoid disturbing installed position of aimers. Then turn screw clockwise until bubble is centered for cor-
MyMopar.com
&60
ELECTRICAL-H EADLIGHTS
VERTICAL ADJUSTMENT SCREWS
0
Fig. 5-Headllght Adjusting Points rect aim and elimination of backlash.
(2) Make vertical adjustment on other side of ve- hicle in same manner.
(3) Inspect target alignment on each side and read- just the horizontal aim, if necessary.
Proceed to adjust number (1) bulbs on dual head- light systems by repeating outlined procedure. In- stall headlight trim panels.
Remove aimers by releasing spring lock a t rear
(bottom) of aimer and pushing release lever forward.
Do not attempt to remove the aimers by pulling away from headlight lens-slide suction cup downward and away from lens.
I
NF689C
1
Fig. 6-Low Beam Adlustmen) Pattern
(d) A vertical line on right of screen or wall in line with center line of right headlight, line number 6.
Remove headlight door. Adjust top adjusting screw for vertical adjustment, adjust side screw for hori- zontal adjustment (Fig. 5).
Adjust low beam of headlights to match the pat- terns in Figure 6 and the corresponding numbers list- ed below:
(1) Lower beam pattern of both headlights.
(2) Horizontal line at level of headlight centers.
(3) Vertical line in line with center of left head- light.
(4) Vertical line in line with center of hood. light.
SEALED BEAM REPLACEMENT
(ALL MODELS)
(1) Remove screws from headlight panel and re- move panel.
(2) Remove screws from interior retaining ring, and remove ring. Do not disturb headlight aimer screws.
(3) Pull out sealed beam unit and unplug connec- tor, pulling straight off.
(4) Install new sealed beam unit.
(5) Install unit retaining ring.
(6) Aim the headlight and install headlight panel.
High Beam
Adjust high beam of headlights to match the pat- terns in Figure 7 and the corresponding numbers listed below:
(1) High beam pattern of both headlights.
(2) Horizontal line at level of headlight centers.
(3) Vertical line in line with center of left head- light.
(4) Vertical line in line with center of hood. light.
Vertical line in line with center of right head-
VISUAL HEADLIGHT ADJUSTMENT
Low Beam
Place vehicle on a known level floor 25 feet from aiming screen or light colored wall.
Four lines are required on screen or wall: (Fig. 6).
(a) A horizontal line at the level of centers of head- lights, line number 3.
(b) A center vertical line which must be lined up with center of hood, line number 5.
(c) A vertical line on left of screen or wall in line with center line of left headlight, line number 4.
FLOOR LINE
NP273A fig. 7-High Beam Adjustment Pattern
MyMopar.com
0
H EAD LI
G
HTS-ELECTRI CAL
8-61
GROUND WIRE
SOCKET AND
HARNESS
LAMP ASSEMBLY
SCREW (2)
GRI’LLE
(REFERENCE) NU597
Fig. 8-Front Park and Turn Signal Lamps-
Removing and Installing-Dart Models
FRONT PARK AND TURN SIGNAL LAMPS-
Dart Models (Fig. 8)
Removal
(1) Disconnect lamp socket from harness connector and ground terminal screw from ground wire.
(2) Remove two screws attaching lamp to grille. lnstallation
(1) Install lamp and attaching screws.
(2) Connect lamp connector to harness connector and ground wire to ground.
FRONT BUMPER TURN SIGNAL LAMPS-
Coronet Models (Fig. 9)
Removal
(1) From under the bumper disconnect cable at harness connector.
(2) Remove two screws attaching limp to bumper and remove lamp and spacer from under bumper. To replace bulb remove two screws and lens. lnstallation
(1) Position lamp and spacer on bumper and install attaching screws. Tighten to 12 to 22 inch-pounds.
(2) Connect lamp connector to harness connector.
FRONT, PARK AND TURN SIGNAL LAMPS-
Charger Models (Fig. 10)
Removal
(1) From underneath radiator grille air shield, dis- connect lamp socket connectors at harness connector.
(2) Remove the three screws attaching lamp to shield and remove lamp. Bulb can be replaced by moving lens attaching screws. re- lnstallation
(1) Determine the “U” nut is in position on air shield, then install lamp and attaching screws.
(2) Connect lamp connector to harness connector.
TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR LAMP-Dart
Models (Fig. 11)
Refer to Figure 11 for removal and installation.
TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR LAMP-Except
Dart Models (Fender Mounted)-(Fig. 12)
Refer to Figure 12 for removal and installation.
HOOD TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR LAMPS
(Fig. 13)
Removal
(1) Raise hood and snap out socket and bulb as- sembly.
LAMP
/ASSEMBLY
/
SPACER
NU598
Fig. 9-Front Bumper Turn Signal Lamps-
Removing and Installing-Coronet Models
SCREW (2)
NU599
Fig. IO-Front Park and Turn Signal Lamps-
Removing and Installing-Charger Models
1
MyMopar.com
8-62
EL
EC I
C
A
L-H EA
D
LI G HTS
LAMP ASSEMBLY
VIEW IN DIRECTION
OF ARROW
NUT AsEMBLiEs
( a d
NU600
Fig. I )--turn Signal Indicator Lamp-Removing and Installing-Dart Models
( 2 ) Remove two nuts from lamp studs and remove turn signal lamp. lnstallation
(1) Position lamp on hood and install nut assem- blies.
(2) Insert bulb and socket into lamp.
REAR BUMPER LICENSE LAMP-All Models
(Fig. 14)
Removal
(1) Disconnect lamp socket connector from harness connector.
TURN SIGNAL
INDICATOR
LAMP ASSEMBLY
\
COVER
STUD
LENS
SOCK~T AND
\
CABLE
NU602
Fig. I3-Turn Signal Indicator Lamps-
Hood Mounted
(2) Remove two screws attaching lamp to bumper and remove lamp. lnstallation
(1) Position lamp on bumper and install attaching screws.
(2) Connect lamp socket connector to harness con- nector.
QUARTER PANEL, TAIL, STOP AND TURN
SIGNAL LAMPS-Coronet Station Wagons-
(Fig. 15)
Removal
(1) Snap out socket and bulb from lamp base.
(2) Remove four screws attaching lamp to quarter panel and remove lamp. lnstallation
(1) Install new gasket to insure proper sealing and position lamp in quarter panel.
RETAINER Y
BUMPER
(REFEFENCE)
WELT
BULB l i
FRONT
FENDER (REFERENCE)
SOCKET
AND CABLE
SCREW 0
NU601
Fig. 12-rurn Signal Indicator--le ender Mounted-
All Models-Except Dart Fig. 14-Rear Bumper License Lamp-All Models
NU603
MyMopar.com
n
HEADLIGHTS-ELECTRICAL
8-63
NUT (6)
‘SOCKET
LAMP ASSEMBLY
L \ NUMBER 1156 NU604
Fig. 15-Quarter Panel, Tail, Stop, Turn Signal and
Back-up Lamps-Station Wagons-Coronet Models
(2) Install lamp attaching screws and snap cable socket into lamp base.
REAR QUARTER PANEL, TAIL, STOP, TURN
SIGNAL AND BACK-UP LAMPS-Except
Station Wagons-Coronet Models (Fig. 16)
Removal
(1) Working through trunk compartment, remove six nut assemblies from studs attaching lamp to tail lamp reinforcement.
(2) Snap out lamp sockets and remove lamp.
installation
(1) Install housing gasket (replace if necessary to
SOCKET AND CABLE
A insure a good seal) and position lamp in tail lamp panel opening. Install nut assemblies.
(2) Snap in lamp sockets.
QUARTER PANEL TAIL, STOP, TURN
SIGNAL AND BACK-UP LAMPS-Dart Models
(Fig. 17)
Removal
(1) From under fender, remove four attaching nuts, pull lamp out, snap out lamp sockets and remove lamps. lnstallation
(1) Determine that sealing gasket has not been damaged, then snap in lamp bulb and sockets into lamp housing.
(2) Position lamp on quarter panel extension and install attaching nuts.
TAIL, STOP AND TURN SIGNAL LAMPS-
Charger Models (Fig. 18)
Removal
(1) From trunk compartment, snap out three lamp socket and bulb assemblies.
(2) Remove eight nut assemblies from tail lamp re- inforcement studs and remove lamp through trunk compartment. lnstallation
(1) Determine that lamp gasket is not damaged to insure against leaks, then install lamp on studs and install attaching nuts.
(2) Snap in bulbs and socket assemblies.
BACK-UP LAMP-Charger Models (Fig. 19)
Removal
(1) Remove two screws attaching lamp to bumper,
QUARTER PANEL EXTENSION
BULB NI
KET
Fig. 16-Rear Quarter Panel Tail, Stop, Turn Signal and Back-up Lamps-Except Station Wagons-
Coronet Models
MyMopar.com
0
8-64
ELECTRICAL-TURN SIGNALS
BULB SOCKETS
WIRING CONNECTOR
\
'15 '
LAMP ASSEMBLY
BUMPER (REFERENCE) NU607
Fig. ICI-Tail, Stop and Turn Signal Lamps-
Charger Models pull lamp out and disconnect lamp connector from harness terminal.
To
replace bulb, remove lens re-, tainer and lens.
RETAINER NU608
Fig. 19-Back-up Lamps-Charger Models
Installation
(1) Connect lamp connector to harness terminal, position lamp on bumper and install attaching screws.
TURN SIGNALS-EMERGENCY FLASHER
INDEX
Emergency Flasher
General Information
Page
............................
66
...........................
64
Service Diagnosis
Switch
.............................
.......................................
Page
64
65
GENERAL INFORMATION
The turn signals are activated with a lever mounted on the left side of the steering column just below the steering wheel. When the driver wishes to signal his intentions to change direction of travel, moving the lever up causes the right turn signals to flash. Moving the lever down causes the left turn signals to flash.
After completion of a turn the system is deactivated automatically.
As
the steering wheel returns to the straight ahead position, a lobe mounted to the under- side of the steering wheel contacts one of two cancel- ing cams in the turn signal switch mounted in the steering column upper housing. Contact of the lobe with the canceling cam returns the switch to the off position.
When the system is activated, one of two indicator lights mounted in the instrument cluster or on the front fender flashes in unison with the turn signal lights (Fig. 1) indicating to the driver that the system is operating.
The turn signal flasher is a plug in type mounted to the right of the steering column, under the instru- ment panel in a bracket mounted on the ash receiver housing for Dart models and on the lower instrument panel to the left of the steering column for Charger and Coronet models.
Condition
~~
EXTERNAL LAMPS
OPERATE NORMALLY,
NO INDICATIONS ON
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
SYSTEM DOES NOT
FLASH
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause Correction
(a) Faulty pilot bulb ter. in instrument clus- (a) Replace bulb.
(a) Faulty flasher
(b) unit.
Faulty external bulb.
(c) Faulty contact in switch.
(a) Replace flasher.
(b) Replace faulty bulb.
(c) Replace switch.
MyMopar.com
0
Condition
SYSTEM DOES NOT
CANCEL AFTER
COMPLETION OF
TURN
ENTIRE SYSTEM DOES
NOT OPERATE
TURN SIGNALS-ELECTRICAL
Possible C a m
(a) Broken or loose cancelling
(b) finger.
Improperly aligned cancelling finger.
(c) Broken or faulty switch.
Correction
(a) Replace cancelling finger.
(b) Align cancelling finger properly.
(c) Replace switch.
8-65
(a) Open circuit in feed wire to switch.
(b) Faulty fuse.
(c) Faulty flasher unit.
(a) Loose or corroded external lamp ground connection.
(a) Check wiring ing circuits. Refer to
Diagrams.”
(b) Replace fuse.
(c) Replace flasher.
‘Wr-
(a) Clean and tighten ground connection. PILOT LAMP ILLUMI-
NATES BRIGHTLY,
EXTERNAL LAMPS
GLOWS DIMLY WITH
NO FLASH
SWITCH
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Removal
(1) Disconnect battery ground cable.
(2) Remove horn ring ornament assembly by turn- ing counterclockwise.
(3)
(4)
Disconnect horn Wire at horn switch.
Remove three screws attaching horn ring and switch to steering wheel. Remove horn ring and switch.
(5) Loosen steering wheel nut several turns and in- stall Steering Wheel Puller Tool C-3428. Loosen steer- ing wheel first. Then remove steering wheel nut and steering wheel.
(6) Disconnect switch wiring multiple connector at steering column jacket. Remove each terminal from connector, tying them together with a piece of string or fine wire.
(7) Remove the screws attaching turn signal switch to steering column and remove switch, and switch wires from column. Leave string or wire in column as an aid to installation.
installation
(1) Attach string or wire, (that was left in steering column jacket tube during removal), to turn signal
LEFT PARK
AND TURN
, , r F E N D E R INDICATOR LEFT TURN
RIGHT PARK
TURN AND
I
,
PAGEL
INDICATORS
RIGHT f
FENDER INDICATOR
I AMMETER
SIGNAL
SWITCH -
I
SWITCH
TAIL-STOP-DOME
20 AMP. FUSE
SIGNAL
FLASHER
IGNITION SWITCH
Fig. 1-Turn Stgnarl Wiring
RIGHT TURN
AND STOP
NH420C
MyMopar.com
8-66
EL
ECTR IC
A L-H
0 R N
S
0 switch wiring and carefully pull string or wire down Tighten to 24 foot-pounds. Test operation of cancel- through column jacket tube until turn signal switch is ing lever. positioned in steering column jacket tube. Install at- taching screws and connect all wire connectionc
(2) Install turn signal switch lever. Tighte inch pounds.
(3) Install steering wheel and steering wh
(4)
(5)
(6)
Install horn switch, horn ring retainer and attaching screws. Connect horn wire at horn switch.
Position horn ring ornament assembly on horn
:ng and lock by turning clockwise.
Connect battery ground cable.
EMERGENCY FLASHER
The emergency flasher system is energized by a switch on the instrument panel when the driver wishes to draw attention to the vehicle. When the switch is activated all turn signal lights and the turn signal indicators flash simultaneously.
Before the switch is activated, the turn signal switch should be in the neutral position to prevent a characteristic feed back through the accessory circuit causing intermittent operation of the acces- sories.
When the flasher is operating, application of the brake pedal will override the system and interrupt the flasher. All lights will remain on bright until the brake pedal is released.
For removal and installation of the switch see
“In-
strument Panels”.
The system consists of a separate instrument panel switch and flasher unit. The flasher is mounted on the brake support bracket on Dart models and on the lower edge of the instrument panel just below the left side of the glove box on Coronet and Charger models.
The flasher is a plug-in heavy duty type and is not to be confused with the turn signal flasher.
HORNS
GENERAL INFORMATION
The horn circuit consists of a horn switch located in the steering wheel hub and a horn relay mounted in the engine compartment for Coronet and Charger models. On Dart models the relay is mounted in the passenger compartment under the instrument panel at left kick pad. Battery current from the “B” ter- minal of the starter relay flows to the “B” terminal of the horn relay. When the horn ring or button is depressed, the horn ring completes a ground circuit to the horn relay closing a set of points in the relay and allowing battery current to flow from the relay to the horns which are grounded to the sheet metal of the vehicle.
Condition
HORNS WILL NOT
SOUND
HORNS SOUND
0 US LY
CON-
(Immediately discon- nect wires from horns and wire from the “B” terminal of horn relay).
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause
(a) Horn switch contact plate dirty.
(b)
(d)
Improper adjustment.
(c) Broken or faulty wiring.
Faulty horn.
(e) Faulty relay.
(a) Shorted wiring.
(b) Horn switch sticking.
(c) Relay sticking.
Correction
(a) Remove steering wheel and clean.
(b)
(c) See “Testing.”
(d)
See “Adjusting.”
See “Testing.” Replace horn sa ry. if
(e) See “Testing.” Replace relay if sa ry. neces- neces-
(a) See “Testing.”
(b) See “Testing”; Replace horn switch if necessary.
(c) See “Testing”; ReDlaCe relay if neces- sa ry.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Testing
A. Horns will not sound
Should the horns fail to sound, disconnect wire con- nector at horn and connect one lead of a test light to the connector terminal and the other lead of test light to a good body ground. Depress the horn ring or button. Should the test light illuminate, the horns are faulty. Replace or adjust horns.
If the test light fails to light, reconnect the con- nector to the horn terminal and connect one lead of
MyMopar.com
0
INSTRUMENT PANELS-ELECTRICAL 8-67
test light to the horn relay “B” terminal and the other test light lead to a good body ground. If the light fails to illuminate, inspect for corroded battery terminals, dead battery or an open circuit in the wire from the starter relay to the “B” terminal of the horn relay.
Should the test light illuminate, touch a jumper wire from relay “S” terminal to good body ground.
Sounding of the horns will indicate a poor ground circuit in the horn switch, an open wire from the “S” terminal of the horn relay or a poorly grounded steer- ing column.
To determine if the horn relay is defective, connect a jumper wire from “B” to “H” terminals. If horns operate, the horn relay is faulty and should be re- placed.
B. Horn sound continuously
Should the horns sound continuously, disconnect wires from horns and the positive wire from “B” ter- minal of horn relay. Remove wire from “S” terminal of horn relay and place one lead of a test light (with its own battery) to the wire connector and the other lead to a good ground. If the light illuminates; either the wire is shorted to ground or the horn button is sticking. Remove steering wheel and disconnect wire from horn switch. Repeat above test and if light still illuminates; wire is shorted to ground. Repair or re- place wire.
If light does not illuminate; horn switch is sticking.
Repair or replace horn switch.
If the light does not illuminate on the first test; con- nect one lead of a test light (without integral battery) to the horn wire connector (green wire) and the other lead to a good body ground. If test light illuminates, there is a short in the horn wiring. Repair or replace wire. If the test light does not illuminate; connect the positive lead back on the “B” terminal of the horn relay and repeat above test. If the light now illumi- nates, then the relay contacts are sticking. Replace horn relay.
Adjusting
(1) Disconnect connections at each horn to deter- mine which horn is not operating.
(2) Remove horn and bracket assembly.
(3) With a suitable tool (Fig. l), turn tone adjuster counterclockwise until there is no vibration (sound).
(4) Turn tone adjuster clockwise, approximately
1/4 turn at a time until tone has a clear mellow
S P A R T O N
PRESTOLITE NP48
Fig. I-Horn Adjustments sound. Do not turn tone adjuster while horn is sound- ing.
Adjustment will only clear up sound and cannot change horn tone frequency.
(5) Connect a test ammeter between positive post of a 12 volt battery and horn terminal post. Connect a jumper lead from negative battery post to horn base. Clean paint from horn bracket where connection is made. Turn adjusting screw to obtain a reading of six amperes minimum to eight amperes maximum for
Sparton horns, four amperes minimum to six amperes maximum for Prestolite horns and 3.5 amperes mini- mum to 4.5 amperes maximum for road runner (Spar- ton) horns at 12.4 volts.
Amperage must not exceed eight amperes maxi- mum for Sparton horns, six amperes maximum for
Prestolite horns and 4.5 amperes maximum for Road
Runner (Sparton) horns.
INSTRUMENT PANELS
INDEX
Brake System Warning Light
Circuit Breakers
Fuse Block
Page
....................
70 General Information
...............................
...................................
75
74
Heater or Air
Instruments
...........................
68
Conditioning Controls
...................................
Page
.............
76
72
MyMopar.com
8 4 8
ELECTRICAL-INSTRUMENT PANELS
Instrument Clusters
Printed Circuit Boards
Service Diagnosis
Spec if ications
...........................
Light Bulb Replacement
.......................
.........................
.............................
.................................
Page
70
70
73
68
95
GENERAL INFORMATION
Speedometer
Switch Replacement
Tests in
.................................
Tachometer (Charger)
Vehicle
Tests Out of Vehicle
Page
73
..........................
75
.........................
...............................
69
...........................
74
74
All gauges are of the thermal type and operate on the constant voltage principal. This is accomplished through the use of a voltage limiter connected in parallel with the gauges. Voltage limiters are external plug-in type. the sending unit. In this system the sending unit
re-
sistance varies in direct relation to the temperature of the coolant.
When the engine is cold, the resistance of the disc in the temperature sending unit is high and a low temperature will be indicated on the gauge.
F vel Level lndicating System
A hinged float arm on the fuel tank raises or lowers dependent on the fuel level. The float arm contacts a variable resistor in the gauge sending unit that pro- vides a change of resistance in the fuel gauge circuit with any up or down movement of the float. This resistance registers on the instrument panel gauge, metered to the capacity of the tank.
When the fuel level in the tank is low, the resist- ance of the circuit is increased restricting current flow and consequently positions the instrument panel gauge pointer to low.
Resistance in the circuit is at a minimum when the tank is full and the float arm is raised. With resist- ance at a minimum, current flow is high, registering full on the instrument panel gauge.
Temperature lndicating System
The operation of the temperature indicating system is identical in operation with the fuel system with the exception of the method of varying the resistance of
Condition
ALL GAUGES READ
HIGH (“against the peg”) AFTER IGNITION
SWITCH IS TURNED
Oil Pressure Warning Light
The oil pressure warning switch, mounted on the engine, is controlled by the engine oil pressure.
When the engine oil pressure is high (normal oper- ating condition of the engine) the switch is held in the
“OFF” or “OPEN” position allowing no current to flow to the oil pressure warning lamp on the instru- ment panel.
When the engine oil pressure is low the switch is in the ”ON” or ”CLOSED” position allowing current to flow to the oil pressure warning lamp on the instru- ment panel causing the warning light to be illumin- ated.
Oil Pressure Gauge (Charger Only)
The oil pressure gauge circuitry is similar to the temperature indicating system. However, the sending unit mounted in an oil passage of the engine, consists of a resistor actuated by a diaphragm as the oil pressure increases or decreases.
S ERVlC
AGN OS1 S
Possible Cause Correction
(a) Faulty voltage limiter.
(b) panel.
(a) Test voltage limiter.
Cluster not properly grounded to (b) Tighten cluster mounting screws.
GAUGE POINTERS DO
NOT MOVE WHEN
IGNITION SWITCH
IS TURNED “ON”
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
INDICATES NORMAL
OPERATION, BUT THE
FUEL GAUGE INDICATES
A HIGHER O R LOWER
FUEL LEVEL THAN
ACTUALLY EXISTS
ERRATIC OIL GAUGE
0 P I 0 N *
* Charger Only
(a) Faulty voltage limiter or an open (a) Test voltage limiter. Test wiring, re- circuit on battery side (input of pair or replace a s necessary. limiter).
(a) Fuel tank sending
(b) panel fuel gauge is unit or instrument (a) Test faulty.
Fuel tank is improperly grounded.
(a) Loose or dirty electrical connections.
(b) sending unit and gauge.
Test fuel tank for a good ground.
Testing the system with the tank ing unit positioned for both “empty” and “full” is send- usually sufficient to determine the calibration in the range between these positions.
(a) Clean and tighten all electrical con- nections and test the gauge operation.
MyMopar.com
0
INSTRUMENT PANELS-ELECTRICAL
8-69
Condition
FUEL GAUGE INDI-
CATES CORRECTLY BUT
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
INDICATES HIGHER
OR LOWER TEMPERA-
TURE THAN ACTUAL
ENGINE TEMPERATURE
ERRATIC TEMPERATURE
GAUGE OPERATION
E R RAT1 C 0 P E RAT1 0 N
OF FUELGAUGE
Possible Cause
~
Correction
~
(a) Faulty instrument panel temperature (a) Test wiring, repair or replace gauge, wiring or faulty temperature essary. Test gauge and sending sending unit in engine. as nec- u n i t
(a) Loose or dirty electrical connections. (a) Clean and tighten all electrical con- nections and test the gauge operation.
(a) Loose or dirty electrical connections (a) Test or faulty fuel tank sending
u n i t
(2) Inspect fuel tank ground strap and make sure tank body. fuel tank sending ceed a s follows:
(1) Clean and tighten all electrical connections. is unit, and pro- grounded to
TESTS IN VEHICLE
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Voltage Limiter
The voltage limiter can be tested in the vehicle or with the instrument cluster removed. To quickly test the voltage limiter in the vehicle, connect one lead of a voltmeter or test light to the temperature sending unit and the other lead to a good ground. Leave the sending unit lead wire attached to the sending unit.
Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position. A fluctuating voltmeter or a flashing light indicates the voltage limiter is operating.
Tester C-3826 to the terminal and the other test lead to a good ground. Place the pointer of the gauge tester on the “L” position and turn the ignition switch to “on.” The temperature gauge should show “C” plus or minus 1/8 inch. Thermal gauges are slow in opera- tion. Allow time for gauge to heat up.
Place the pointer on the tester on the and the temperature gauge should advance to the driving range of 1/2 position of the dial. Place the pointer of the tester in the “H” position and the gauge should advance to the “H”
Should the gauge respond to the above tests, but not operate when the terminal is attached to the send- ing unit, indications are of a defective sending unit and it should be replaced. Should the gauge fail to respond to the above tests, indications are of possible loose connections, broken wire, or defective gauge.
The instrument cluster should be removed for further inspection. See “Instrument Cluster Removal.”
Fuel Gauge
(1) Disconnect wire at fuel tank sending unit. Con- nect one lead of Tester C-3826 to wire terminal and the other lead to a good ground. Turn ignition switch on.
(2) Turn knob on dial of tester to “H” and observe gauge on panel. It should read “Full,” plus 3/32” or minus 1/32”.
(3) With dial knob on “M,” panel gauge should read 1/2.
(4) With dial knob on “L,”
“Empty,” plus 1/32” or minus 3/32”.
If the panel gauge does not perform as described, continuity of the circuit from the tank sending unit to the panel unit should be tested, with special attention to the printed circuit board. If continuity has been established, the gauge should be replaced.
Should the panel unit perform properly, and the ground strap at the tank suction tube is properly in- stalled the tank unit should be removed for testing.
See “Tests Out Of The Vehicle.”
Oil Pressure Warning Light
To test the oil pressure warning light, remove the terminal from the oil pressure sending unit. Connect one lead of the gauge tester to the terminal and the other test lead to a good ground.
With the ignition switch in the “on” position and the gauge tester in the “L” position, the indicator light should not light. With the gauge tester in the glow. With the gauge tester in the “H” position, the indicator light should show full brilliance.
Should the oil pressure warning light fail to re spond to the above tests, indications are of possible loose connections, broken wire, or a burned out bulb.
Temperature Gauge
Disconnect the terminal from the temperature sending unit on the engine. Connect one test lead of
Oil Gauge-Charger Only
Disconnect wire from the oil pressure sending unit on the engine. Connect one test lead of Tester Tool
MyMopar.com
8-70
E LECTR ICAL-I NSTR U M
E
NT PAN E LS
h
C-3826 to the removed wire terminal the other test lead to a good ground. Place the pointer of the gauge tester on the “L” position and turn the ignition switch to “on.” Do not start engine. The oil pressure gauge should show “L” plus or minus 1/8 inch. Thermal gauges are slow in operation. Allow time for gauge to heat up.
Place the pointer on the tester on the “M” and the oil pressure gauge should advance to the 1/2 position of the dial. Place the pointer of the tester in the “H”
Light Bulb Replacement-Dart Models
Instrument cluster light bulbs can be replaced from under the instrument panel by performing certain other steps enumerated below to afford access to the bulbs.
(1) Remove emergency flasher and bracket.
(2) Remove steering column opening cover.
(3) Remove cluster mounting screws and rock out cluster.
(4) Remove air conditioner spot cooler duct (so equipped).
Should the gauge respond to the above tests, but not operate when the wire is attached to the sending unit, it should be replaced. Should the gauge fail to respond to the above tests, indications are of possible loose connections, broken wire, or faulty gauge. The instrument cluster should be removed for further tests. See “Instrument Cluster.”
BRAKE SYSTEM WARNING LIGHT
The brake warning light flashes only when the parking brake is applied with the ignition key turned
“ON”. of
The same light will also illuminate should one the two service brake systems fail when the brake pedal is applied. To test the system turn the ignition key “ON”, and apply the parking brake. If the light fails to light, inspect for a burned out bulb, discon- nected socket, a broken or disconnected wire at the switch.
To test the service brake warning system, raise the car on a hoist and open a wheel cylinder bleeder while a helper depresses the brake pedal and ob- serves the warning light. If the light fails to light, inspect for a burned out bulb, disconnected socket, a broken or disconnected wire at the switch. If the bulb is not burned out and the wire continuity is proven, replace the brake warning switch in the brake line Tee fitting mounted on the frame rail in the en- gine compartment below the master cylinder.
Light Bulb Replacement-Charger Models
The bulbs are all accessible from under the instru- ment panel by removing the air conditioning lower center distribution duct and the left distribution duct
(so equipped).
The upper and lower speedometer illumination bulbs, it will be necessary to drop the steering column for accessibility.
Light Bulb Replacement-Coronet Models
The bulbs are all accessible from under the instru- ment panel.
As
an aid in reaching the right turn sig- nal or oil pressure light bulb, first loosen the wire harness from the retaining clip. On air conditioning equipped models, disconnect the left spot cooler hose. clear bulbs.
(6) Disconnect speedometer cable.
(7) Disconnect printed circuit board connector.
(a) Brake system warning light.
(b) Fuel and temperature gauge illumination.
Perform step (1).
(c) Left turn signal indicator. Perform step (1).
(d) Left speedometer illumination or high beam indicator. Perform steps (l), (3), (5), (6), (8).
(e) Right speedometer illumination. Perform steps (2),
( f )
(41, (5),
Right turn signal indicator. Perform step
(4).
(g) Ammeter gauge illumination. Perform step
(4).
(h) Low oil pressure warning. Perform step
(4).
To remove light socket, turn counter clockwise and pull out. For replacement bulb number, see “Bulb
Chart” in Specifications.
INSTRUMENT CLUSTERS
Removal-Dart
(1)
Models (Fig. I)
Disconnect battery ground cable. switches to prevent damage to painted surfaces.
(3) Remove column opening cover (four screws).
(4) Remove lower column plate (three bolts).
(5) Remove upper column clamp (two nuts and one bolt).
(6) Remove six cluster mounting screws.
(7) Disconnect speedometer cable at speedometer.
(9) Rock cluster out and release wiring harness from spring clip at back of cluster; continue to rock the cluster out while using a screw driver to hold harness clear of speedometer. and the brake system warning light. printed circuit board connector and ammeter leads, then complete cluster roll-out.
MyMopar.com
0
BReKE SYSTEM WARNING LIGHT
D WARNING FLASHER SWITCH
IGH BEAM INDIC
INSTRUMENT PAN ELS-ELECTRICAL
ALTERNATqR INDICATOR
8-71
TOP SWITCH
OR DEFOGGER
PANEL LIGHTS WITH 4-SPEED TRANSMISSION
Fig. 1-Instrument Panel-Dart Models
Installation-Dart Models
(1) Position cluster in front of panel opening, con- nect right printed circuit multiple connector and am- meter leads.
(2) Reaching up under instrument panel, hold main harness towards front of vehicle while rolling cluster into panel opening. Holding cluster into place, install wire harness in retainer clip above speedometer drive.
(3) Install four screws in underside of upper lip of cluster and two screws in lower lip of cluster.
(4) Reaching up under panel, connect left printed circuit board multiple connector and speedometer cable.
(5) Raise steering column into position and install upper column clamp and retaining nuts finger tight.
Install steering column lower support plate with three retaining bolts. Tighten column upper clamp nuts securely, remove protective tape from column and switches and reposition floor covering.
(6) Connect battery ground cable and tion of all instruments. test opera- umn cover plate (4
(5) Remove column clamp at instrument panel (two nuts).
(6) Remove upper trim mounting screws and re- move upper trim molding (six screws), (so equipped).
(7) Remove left side trim molding (one screw), (so equipped).
(8) Remove left side trim plate (one screw and one
“T” (so equipped).
(9) Remove radio trim plate (two screws). move switch bezel (four screws).
MAP LIGHT NU495
(12) Remove air conditioning center opening cover
(so equipped).
(13) Remove lower left trim pad (six mounting screws from under panel and four screws from front of instrument panel).
(15) Remove six screws attaching cluster to panel, rock cluster out far enough to reach and disconnect wiring harness and connectors and remove cluster.
Removal-Coronet Models (Fig. 2)
(1) Disconnect battery ground cable.
(2) Tape steering column to keep from damaging finish when removing cluster.
(3) Remove steering column cover (four screws).
Installat ion
(1) Rest cluster in panel opening; connect wire harness and rock cluster into position and install at- taching screws.
MyMopar.com
8-72
ELECTRICALINSTRUMENT PANELS
HEADLIGHTS FUEL GAUGE
ATOR REAR WINDOW/
HEATER OR AIR
0
AIR CONDITIONER
AIR CONDITIONER
AIR‘
CONDITIONER OUTLET REAR SPEAKER‘ CONTROL ASH TRAY
AND
LIGHTER NU494
(2)
(3) Install lower trim pad.
(4)
( 5 )
Fig. 2-Instrument Punel-Coronet Models
Connect speedometer cable at speedometer.
Install air conditioning center opening cover.
Install ignition switch and bezel.
(6) Install radio trim plate.
(7) Install left side trim plate and molding.
(8) Install upper trim molding.
(9) Install column upper clamp and tighten nuts finger tight.
(10) Install column lower cover, tighten bolts se- curely and roll carpet into place.
(11) Connect battery ground cable and test opera- tion of all instruments. and rock cluster out of panel far enough to disconnect wiring at ammeter, switches, tachometer-clock, light bulbs and printed circuit board connectors then com- plete cluster roll-out.
Installation-Charger
(1) Place cluster in panel opening to connect all electric wiring then roll cluster into position and in- stall mounting screws.
(2) Connect speedometer cable at speedometer.
(3) Install steering column upper clamp and tighten nuts finger tight.
(4) Install steering column lower plate and tighten bolts securely.
(5) Tighten upper clamp securely and install col- umn opening cover.
(6) Connect battery ground cable and of all instruments. test operation
Removal-Charger (Fig. 3)
(1) Disconnect battery ground cable.
(2) Tape steering column to keep from damaging finish when removing cluster.
(3) Remove steering column opening cover (four screws).
(4) Remove steering column lower support plate
(four bolts).
(5) Remove steering column upper clamp (two mounting nuts).
(6) Disconnect speedometer cable at speedometer.
(8) Release wire harness from three retaining clips
INSTRUMENTS
Replacement-Charger
(1)
Models
Remove instrument cluster. See ‘‘Instrument
Cluster Removal.”
(2) Remove clock reset knob.
(3) Remove nine cluster bezel mounting screws and remove bezel.
(4) Remove nine push-on clips and remove cluster lens.
MyMopar.com
0
AIR CONDITIONER
INSTRUMENT PAN ELS-ELECTRICAL
8-73
AIR CONDITIONER CONTROLS
OUTLET WITH CLOCK WINDSHIELD WIPER 4-SPEED TRANSMISSION N U496
Fig. 3-lnstrvment Panel-Charger Models
SPEEDOMETER
be removed and remove the gauge from front of hous- ing.
(6) Position new gauge studs through back of hous- ing and install attaching nuts. Do not overtighten.
(7) Carefully position cluster lens on cluster bezel and install push-on clips.
( 8 ) Position cluster bezel on cluster and attach mounting screws.
(9) Install instrument cluster. See “Instrument Clus- ter Installation”.
Replacement-Coronet and Dart Models
(1) Remove instrument cluster. See “Instrument
Cluster Removal.”
(2) With cluster face down on padded work bench, remove eight screws retaining cluster bezel to cluster housing.
(3) Carefully separate cluster housing from bezel.
(4) Remove the mounting stud nuts of the gauge to be removed and remove gauge from front of housing.
Replacement-All Models
(1) Remove instrument cluster. See “Instrument
Cluster Removal”.
(2) With cluster face down on padded work bench, remove eight screws retaining cluster bezel to cluster housing.
(3) Carefully separate housing from bezel. Loosen two fuel gauge mounting nuts.
(4) Remove two speedometer mounting screws and rubber washers from back of cluster housing.
(5) lift speedometer head out of housing.
(6) Position new or repaired speedometer head in housing, aligning screw holes with holes in speed- ometer head.
(7) Install two rubber washers and retaining screws in back of housing and tighten. Tighten two fuel gauge mounting nuts.
(8) Carefully position housing on bezel and in- stall eight retaining screws.
(9) Install instrument cluster. See “Instrument
Cluster Installation”. ing and install attaching nuts.
(6)
Do not overtighten.
Carefully position cluster housing on bezel and install eight retaining screws.
(7) Install instrument cluster. See “Instrument Clus- ter Installation.”
PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS
Replacement-All Models
(1) With the cluster face down on a padded work
MyMopar.com
8-74 ELECTRICAL-INSTRUMENT PANELS
0 bench, remove all light bulb sockets and voltage limiter.
(2) Remove eight screws retaining cluster bezel to cluster housing and carefully separate.
(3) Remove fuel and temperature gauge stud nuts and remove gauges from housing. and lift board off from housing.
(5) Place new printed circuit board on housing and secure with retaining screws.
(6) Position temperature and fuel gauge studs through printed circuit board from housing side and install retaining nuts. Do not overtighten.
(7) Transfer light bulb sockets and voltage limiter to new printed circuit board.
(8) Carefully position housing on bezel and install eight retaining screws.
TACH OM ETER
Replacement
Remove instrument cluster. See “Instrument
Cluster Removal”.
(2) With cluster face down on a padded work bench, remove eight screws retaining cluster bezel to cluster housing.
(3) Carefully separate housing from bezel.
(4) Remove four tachometer housing screws and remove through front of cluster housing.
(5) Install new or repaired tachometer through front of cluster housing.
(6) Install four mounting screws.
(7) Position bezel on housing and install eight retaining screws.
(8) Install instrument cluster. See “Instrument
Cluster Installation”.
TESTS OUT OF VEHICLE
Printed Circuit Board
A visual inspection of the conductors should be made for cracks or damaged circuits. If no visual damage is evident, each circuit should be tested for continuity with an ohmmeter or a test light. Should an open circuit be detected, the printed circuit board should be replaced. lnstruments
(1) Connect a jumper wire to voltage limiter input terminal. Connect other end of the jumper wire to positive post (+) of a 12 volt test battery.
(2) Connect a jumper wire from negative (-) post of battery to instrument cluster base (ground).
(3) Connect one lead from Tester (3-3826 to gauge sending terminal being tested.
(4) Connect remaining tester lead to instrument cluster base (mound).
When the gauge tester is in “L” position, the gauge being tested should read on the low side of dial.
With gauge tester on “M”, the gauge should read in the center of the dial scale and on the high end of the dial when pointer of tester is placed on “H”.
If gauges do not perform as stated, inspect for an open printed circuit before replacing gauge.
Caution: A direct connection from a 12 volt battery will damage the gauges or printed circuit boards.
Fuel Tank Sending Unh
Before removing any unit of the fuel level indicat- ing system, the panel fuel gauge should be tested first. See “Tests in Vehicle”. If the panel gauge per- forms properly make sure the fuel tank ground strap on the fuel line at the tank is making a good ground.
Should the gauge perform properly and the ground strap be properly installed, remove the fuel tank sending unit as outlined in “Fuel System”, Group 14 and test as follows:
(1) 0 to 100 ohm scale, connect one lead to body of sending unit and the other lead to terminal in center of unit.
(2) Hold unit so float arm contacts “Empty Stop.”
The reading on ohmmeter scale should be 73 ohms, plus or minus 12.0
(3) Raise arm to “Full Stop.” The reading should now be 9.6 ohms, plus
or
minus 1 ohm.
If the unit does not perform to these specifications, inspect the stops or arm for possible distortion. If the stops or arm cannot be repaired or are not damaged, the unit should be replaced.
FUSE BLOCK (Fig.
4)
The fuse block is located at the lower edge of the instrument panel and is retained to the instrument panel lower reinforcement by a self tapping screw. fig. &fuse Block
\
MyMopar.com
0
INSTRUMENT PANELS-ELECTRICAL
8-75
In the fuse block are mounted radio, cigar lighter, air-conditioner or heater, tail-stop-dome light, and ac- cessory fuses. The fuse capacity is printed on the fuse block as an aid to replacement requirements.
Windshield Wiper Switch-Dart Models
(1) Remove air conditioning duct (so equipped).
(2)
(3)
Loosen set screw and remove switch knob.
Remove spanner nut with Tool C-3824.
(4) Remove wiring harness from harness clip access. for
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
as
Use only identical type and value circuit breakers replacements during service. See “Specifications” for the location of circuit breakers. move switch.
SWITCH REPLACEMENT
Headlight Switch-Dart Models
The headlight switch is serviced from under the instrument panel after removing the fuse block mounting screw. Move the fuse block out of the way.
If air conditioning equipped, remove the left spot cooler hose from the outlet.
Remove the knob by depressing the release button on the switch and pull the knob out. After removing the bezel with Tool C-3824, lower the switch and dis- connect the multiple connector.
Headlight Switch-Charger Models
(1) Remove instrument cluster. See “Instrument
Cluster Removal.”
(2) Disconnect wiring connector.
(3) Disconnect heater vacuum hoses for accessibil- ity.
(4) Remove the two switch mounting screws.
(5) Position new switch and install mounting screws.
(6) Connect v; icuum hoses at heater switch.
(7)
(8)
Connect w
Install ins1 ;rument cluster. See “Instrument Clus- ter Installation.’ 9
Windshield Washer Switch-Charger Models
The washer switch is serviced in the same manner as the headlight switch.
Windshield Washer Switch-Coronet Models
The washer switch is serviced in the same manner as the windshield wiper switch.
Ignition Switch or Ignition Switch Light-
Charger Models
(1) Remove lower center air conditioning duct equipped).
(so
(2) Remove left air conditioning duct (so equipped).
(3)
(4)
Remove steering column cover for visual assist.
Remove ignition switch spanner with Tool C-
3824.
(5) Disconnect wiring connector and remove switch.
(6) For the ignition switch light, remove bulb socket from bracket and remove bulb.
Ignition Switch-Coronet and Dart Models
(1) Remove air conditioning duct (so equipped).
(2) Remove switch bezel with Tool (2-3824.
(3) On Coronet Models, loosen the harness from clip for access.
(4) Disconnect wiring connector a nd pull switch out from under panel.
Panel Lamp Dimmer Switch-C
The panel lamp dimmer switch : harger Models is serviced in the same manner as the headlight switch
1.
WINDSHIELD
Models
W I
PER SW ITC H-Coron
et
(1) D’ t battery ground cable at battery.
(2) Disconnec t all wiring connectors from back of switches.
(3)
(4)
Remove the switch bezel mounting screw (four).
Remove switches and bezel assembly and re- move the windshield wiper switch. CAUTION: Care- fully pull bezel straight to avoid damaging trim pad.
HEADLIGHT SWITCH-Coronet Models
(1) Disconnect battery ground cable at battery.
(2) Disconnect all wiring connectors from back of switches.
(3) Remove the switch bezel mounting screws.
(4) Remove switches and bezel assembly and re- move the headlight switch. CAUTION: Carefully pull trim bezel straight to avoid damaging trim pad.
Rear Window Defogger Switcl
Models m-Churger
----
SW I
---- ---- bbv-
TC H-C harger Mod e Is
I.._1-__ same manner as the headlight switch. in the
EMERGENCY (Roadside Warning) FLASHER
The emergency flasher switch is serviced in the same manner as the headlight switch.
EMERGENCY (Roadside Warning) FLASHER
SWITCH-Coronet Models
The emergency flasher switch is serviced in the same manner as the headlight switch.
MyMopar.com
8-76
E LECTR
I I N
DS
H I I
PE RS
EMERGENCY (ROADSIDE WARNING) FLASHER
SWITCH-DART MODELS
(1) Remove emergency flasher from mounting bracket.
(2) Remove switch spanner nut with Tool C-3824.
(3) Disconnect wiring connector and pull switch out from under panel.
(4) Connect multiple connector to replacement switch from under panel and insert taggle end of switch through opening in panel and install spanner nut with Tool C-3824.
(5) Disconnect control cable (cut clip from the pin, replace with new clip).
(6) Remove cable retainer and remove controls. lnstallation
(1) Position controls into panel and and retainer. install cable
(2) Connect vacuum hoses.
(3) Connect wiring at control switch.
(4) Connect air conditioning ducts (so equipped).
(5) After making sure that cables do not interfere with ducts or - and check
Operation Of controls.
HEATER OR AIR CONDITIONING CONTROLS
Removal-Coronet Models
(1) Remove the instrument cluster. See ment Cluster Removal.”
“Instru-
(2) Remove the two control mounting screws from the upper instrument panel flange.
(3) Pull the control assembly through the instru- ment cluster opening, disconnect the control cables
(or the vacuum connector if air conditioning equipped) and the blower switch multiple connector and remove the assembly. lnstallation
(1) Position the control assembly in the instru- ment panel opening, connect the control cables and the blower switch multiple connector (or the vacuum connector if air conditioning equipped). Adjust the cables* See ‘‘Control
Heaters”, Group 1.
Adjustment,
(2) Install the control assembly on the instrument panel flange with the two mounting screws.
~
(3) Install the instrument cluster. See “Instrument
Cluster Installation.”
Removal-Charger Models
(1) Remove the four mounting screws.
(2) Remove air conditioning ducts (so equipped).
(3) Disconnect wiring from harness under panel.
(4) Disconnect vacuum hoses at switch control.
Removal-Dart
(1)
Models
Disconnect battery ground cable.
(2) Remove radio. See “Radio Removal”, Acces- sories Group 1.
(3) Loosen set screw(s) in bottom of control lever knob(s) and remove.
(4) From behind instrument panel, remove 2 con- trol assembly retaining nuts.
(5) Lower assembly below instrument panel and disconnect blower switch wires, control cables or vac- uum connector if air conditioning equipped.
The blower switch is attached to tho control as- sambly with )wo me+al * c r ~ s . lnstallation position below instrument panel, con- nect and adjust control cables, blower switch wires or the vacuum connector if air conditioning equipped.
See “Control Cable Adjustments”, Accesso~es, Group
1
1.
(2) Position control assembly on mounting studs and install two retaining nuts.
(3) Install control le& knob(s).
(4) Install radio. See “Radio Installation”, Awes- sories, Group 1.
(5) Connect battery ground cable and
test
operation of controls.
WINDSHIELD
WIPER SYSTEM
INDEX
End Play Adjustment
General Information
Links
........................................
Lubrication
Page
..........................
78 Motor Removal
Page
................................
80
...........................
76 Panel Switch Tests
...................................
Motor lnstallation
.............................
80
80
80
Pivot Replacement
Service Diagnosis
Wiper Arm
............................
............................
.............................
Adjustment
78
81
77
77
GENERAL
IN
FORMATION
The windshield wipers can be operated with the windshield wiper switch only when the ignition switch is in the Accessory or Ignition position. A circuit breaker, integral with the wiper switch protects the circuitry of the wiper system and the vehicle.
All
models are equipped with a two speed wiper system as standard equipment. A variable speed wiper system is offered as optional equipment on Dart models and
MyMopar.com
0
WINDSHIELD WIPERS-ELECTRICAL
8-77 a three speed system on Coronet and Charger models.
Variable speed and three speed motors are con- trolled by resistors in the field circuit. Variable speed motors have a rheostat built into the wiper switch.
Three speed motors have a high speed resistor mount- ed on the switch and a resistance wire in the harness for medium speed.
Two speed motors have permanent magnet fields and are controlled by feeding power to two different brushes for slow and high speed. For low speed opera- tion the current first flows through the torque limit- ing resistor and then to the low speed brush (terminal
“L”,
3). For high speed operation, the high speed brush (terminal “H”) is fed directly.
The depressed parking feature in the variable and three speed systems is accomplished by an internal mechanism within the wiper gear box. When the wiper switch is turned “Off”, an eccentric mechanism shifts the position of the motor output shaft, which in effect, lengthens the drive link and parks the blades in a depressed position. Turning “On” the wipers, restores normal shaft position and wipe pat- tern.
All the variable, three speed and two speed systems have non-adjustable park switches.
The two speed wiper system will complete the wipe cycle and return to the park position when the switch is turned off. All two speed systems park in the lowest portion of the wipe pattern.
The two speed wiper system will complete the wipe cycle and return to the park position when the switch is turned off. All two speed systems park in the low- est portion of the wipe pattern.
Condition
WIPER FAILS TO
OPERATE
WIPER BLADES NOT
PARKING PROPERLY
BLADES SLAP AGAINST
WIN DSHl ELD
MOULDINGS
BLADES CHAlTER
SERVICE DIAGNOSIS
Possible Cause
(a) Binding Linkage.
(b) Faulty instrument panel switch.
(c) Linkage disconnected.
(d) Faulty motor.
(e) Open or grounded wiring.
(a) Arm set at incorrect position.
C o r d o n
(a) Relieve binding condition.
(b) Test Switch. See “Panel Switch
Tests.”
(c) Repair as necessary.
(d) Test motor. See “Motor Testing.”.
(e) Test wiring for continuity. Repair a s necessary.
(a) Adjust arm. See “Wiper
(b) ment.”
Replace motor assembly.
Arm Adjust-
(b) Motor park switch defective.
(a) Improperly adjusted wiper arm.
(b)
(a) See “Wiper Arm Adjustment.”
Looseness of the motor crank or (b) Tighten on replace the part. other drive parts.
(a) Twisted arm holds blade at wrong (a) Replace wiper arm. Do not attempt to angle to glass. straighten bent or twisted arm.
(b) Bent or damaged blades. (b) Replace blades.
(c) Foreign substances such as body pol- (c) Clean the glass or blades. ish on glass or blades.
(a) Motor park switch failure
“closed” position. in the (a) Replace motor assembly. MOTOR WILL NOT
STOP WHEN INSTRU-
MENT PANEL SWITCH
IS TURNED “OFF”
MOTOR STOPS IN ANY
POSITION WHEN IN-
STRUMENT PANEL
SWITCH
FF”
I S TURNED
NO SPEED CONTROL
(a) Motor park switch failure open position.
(b) in the (a) Replace motor assembly.
Open parking circuit or open field cir- (b) Test continuity of blue and green wir- cuit. ing circuit and correct a s necessary.
(a) Open circuit
(b) in wire 2-speed).
Defective control red or green wiring (a) Test continuity and correct a s
(Variable or 3-speed): (red or brown switch. (b) sary.
Replace switch. neces-
SERVICE PROCEDURES
WIPER A R M ADJUSTMENT-VARIABLE
OR THREE SPEED
To determine if an adjustment is required, apply a constant upward force of 50 ounces parallel to the windshield glass at the end of the wiper arm (where the blade is attached to the arm). With the force ap- plied, pull the wiper blade away from the windshield
MyMopar.com
8-78
ELECTRICAL-WINDSHIELD WIPERS
0 n glass once or twice to prevent glass friction from affecting upward movement of the wiper arm and blade. With the force applied, the clearance between the tip of the wiper blade and the windshield lower moulding should be as follows:
Models
Dart
Coronet and Charger
Clearance in Inches Between l i p of
Blade and Windshield Moulding
Right left
.5 to 2.25 .25 to 2.00
.5 to 2.50 .25 to 2.25
If the clearance is not in the specified range, use
Tool (2-3982 assembly (Fig. 1).
Two Speed
To determine if an adjustment is required apply a constant downward force of 25 ounces, parallel to the windshield glass, at the end of the wiper arm (where the wiper blade is attached to the arm). With the 25 ounce force applied pull the wiper blade away from the windshield glass once or twice to prevent glass friction from affecting downward movement of the wiper arm and blade. With this force applied the clearance between the tip of the wiper blade and the windshield moulding should be as follows:
Models
Dart
Clearance in Inches Between l i p of
Blade and Windshield Moulding
Right left
.5 to 2.25 .25 to 2.00
Coronet and Charger
1.00 to 3.00 .25 to 2.25
If the clearance is not in the specified range use
Tool C-3982 assembly (Fig. 1). arm and blade
CAUTION: The use of a screwdriver or other prying tool to remove an arm may distort it in a manner that will allow it to come off the pivot shaft in the future, regardless of how carefully it i s reinstalled. NEVER under any circumstances push or bend the spring clip in the base of the arm in an attempt to release the arm. This clip is self-releasing.
Fig. 2-End P l a y Adjustment
END PLAY ADJUSTMENT (Variable
Three Speed)
or
To adjust the armature shaft end play, turn the adjustment screw in until it bottoms and back-off 1/8 turn (Fig. 2). This adjustment can be made without removing the wiper motor from the vehicle.
PANEL SWITCH TESTS
Two-Speed Models
This switch contains a circuit breaker between ter- minals B and P1 or B and P.
To test the switch, disconnect the wiring and re- move from the instrument panel.
For removal and installation of the wiper switch, see “Instrument Panels”.
Using a continuity tester or an ohmmeter, test for continuity (no resistance) between the contact ter- minals of the switch as shown in the following chart.
For test purposes, the first position is the “Off” position. The “Low” position is the first detent past the “Off” position. The “High” position is the third detent of the switch. In the test chart the reference
“Ground” means to attach one lead of the continuity tester or ohmmeter to the case of the switch. The bench test of the switch does not require the use of a 12 volt battery.
Fig. I-Removing Wiper Arm and Blade
SWITCH CONTINUITY CHART
-
Chrysler Manufactured Two Speed-
( D a d ) off
B
B to B/U. to P1.
A to P2. low
B
B
B to B/U. to P1. to A.
High
B to B/U.
B to P1.
B to H.
H-open
P2-open
H-open
P2-ope
A-open n
MyMopar.com
0
WINDSHIELD WIPERS-ELECTRICAL
8-79
SWITCH CONTINUITY CHART
Chrysler Manufactured Two Speed-
(Charger and Coronet) off
B to B/U.
B
A to P. to F2.
Low
B
B to B/U. to P.
B to A.
High
B
B to B/U. to P.
B to F1.
F1-open F2-open
Fl-open
F2-open
A-open
Three Speed
The three speed switches contain a resistor while the variable speed uses a rheostat to provide a means of controlling the current flow to the field. In the
“OFF” position the switch is designed to provide a circuit to the motor to reverse the current to the field winding which reverses the direction of the armature.
A circuit breaker, built into the switch, protects the circuitry.
To test the switch, disconnect the wiring to the switch and remove the switch from the instrument panel. For removal and installation of the wiper switch, see “Instruments and Indicators.”
Using a continuity tester or an ohmmeter, test for continuity (no resistance) between the contact ter- minals of the switch as shown in the above chart. For test purposes the first position is the switch “Off” position. The “Low” speed is the position immediately past the “Off’ is at the extreme position of the switch travel. In the test chart, the reference “Ground“ means to attach one lead of the continuity tester or ohmmeter to the switch case.
MOTOR
Motor Testing
Chrysler Manufactured-Two Speed
(1) Disconnect motor leads at motor. Connect jumper from battery positive terminal to motor ter- minal “H” (Fig. 3). Motor should run at high speed.
ARNESS ‘CONNECTOR
P1
NR530
Fig. &Two Speed Motor
(The ground circuit is completed through the car body.) Remove jumper.
(2) Connect jumper from battery positive terminal to resistor terminal. Connect second jumper from terminal “L” to the second resistor terminal. The motor should run at low speed. Remove jumpers.
(3) Connect jumper from battery positive terminal to motor terminal “Pl”. Connect a second jumper from motor terminal should park. If the wiper blades are near the bottom of the glass, the motor may be parked. Run the motor as in step (2) until the blades are high on the glass.
Then repeat step (3) to observe parking.
Vendor Manufactured-Variable Speed-Dart and Three Speed-Charger and Coronet
(1) Disconnect motor leads at bulkhead disconnect.
Connect jumper wire from the green lead to ground.
(An additional ground is completed through the car body). Connect jumper wires to the red and brown leads in the bulkhead disconnect from the battery positive terminal. CAUTION: The brown lead must be connected only while the red and green leads are connected to prevent possible damage to the motor.
The motor should run continuously. Disconnect leads.
(2) Connect jumper wire from green lead to brown lead. Connect red lead to ground. Connect third
SWITCH CONTINUITY CHART
(Vendor Manufactured Variable and
Three Speed) off
B to B/U.
B / U to P.
A to F2.
F1 to Ground. low
B to
B/U
B/U. to A.
A to F1.
F2 to Ground.
P-o pe n
.
Medium
(3 Speed Only)
B to
B/U
B/U. to A.
A to R1.
F2 to Ground.
P-o pen.
High
B to B/U.
*A
B/U
F1 to A. to R2 through the rheostat or resistor to R2.
F2 to ground.
P-open.
*As the switch knob of the variable speed switch is rotated the resistance shown vary from a high reading to a low reading in a smooth rate of change. on the ohmmeter should
MyMopar.com
8-80
ELECTRICAL-WINDSHIELD WIPERS
0 jumper wire from battery positive terminal to blue lead. The wiper should run to the park position.
CAUTION: Motor can be damaged if not wired cor- rec t I
Motor Removal
(1) Disconnect battery ground cable.
(2) Disconnect wiper motor wiring harness.
(3) Remove three wiper motor mounting nuts. (On vehicles without air conditioning it is easier to remove crank arm nut and crank arm from under instrument panel first and omit steps (4 )and (5).
(4) Work motor off mounting studs far enough to gain access to crank arm mounting nuts. CAUTION:
Do not force or pry motor from mounting studs as drive link can easily be distorted.
( 5 ) Using a 1/2 inch open end wrench, remove mo- tor crank arm nut. Carefully pry arm off shaft.
(6) Remove wiper motor.
Motor lnstallation
Before installing wiper motor, be sure all three spacers are inserted in holes of motor grommets.
(1) Balance wiper motor on upper right motor grommet.
(2) Index the flats on motor shaft to mate with flats on crank arm. Start and tighten crank arm nut on shaft, being careful that crank arm remains indexed and fully seated on shaft. (On vehicles without air conditioning, it is easier to do step (3) before step (2) from under instrument panel.)
(3) Position wiper motor, then install mounting nuts, being sure that ground strap is attached se- curely.
(4) Connect wiper motor wiring harness.
(5) Connect battery ground cable and test opera- tion of windshield wiper system.
RIGHT PIVOT ASSEMBLY
LINKS
Removal-All
(1) Disconnect battery ground cable.
(2) If air conditioning equipped, remove the duct supplying left spot cooler to provide easier access to the left wiper pivot. Insert a wide blade screwdriver between plastic link bushing and the pivot crank arm.
Gently twist the screwdriver to force the bushing and link from the pivot pin (See Fig. 5).
Remove three motor mounting nuts, pull motor away from bulkhead and remove motor crank arm retaining nut. After crank arm is removed from motor shaft, remove drive link assembly from under panel.
In heater equipped models, remove motor drive crank arm retaining nut and pry crank arm off of motor shaft. Remove drive link from left pivot crank arm pin and withdraw assembly from under panel.
Remove motor drive crank arm from drive link after removal of assembly from vehicle (Fig. 4).
(3) To remove connecting link from pivots, remove glove box. Reaching through glove box opening, gently pry the bushing and link from the right pivot pin (See Fig. 5). Lift the link from the pivot crank arm pin and repeat operation at left pivot. Withdraw from under left side of panel.
Lubrication
Use Automotive Multi-purpose Lubricant NLGlP on all pivot pins and motor crank pins. lnstallation
(1) Install bushing on motor crank arm pin, posi- tion drive link on bushing so large side of pivot bush- ing faces away from drive crank arm. Large side of pivot bushing will be on same side of link as crank arm retainer.
F
LEFT PIVOT ASSEMBLY
RK POSITION SHOWN)
DRIVE CRANK AND
DRIVE LINK
TO LEFT’PIVOT
L%h
.
NR40AA
SPRING WASHER
BUSHING
MOTOR
CONNECTION
F
-DRIVE
Fig. 4-Wiper System
VARIABLE SPEED
R
TlON
MyMopar.com
0
WINDSHIELD WASHERS-ELECTRICAL
8-81
SEALING WASHER
LEFT PIVOT
CRANK ARM
NR485
Fig. 5-Removing Link and Bushing
(2) Install spring washer, convex side towards link and install retainer (Fig. 4).
If retainer was distorted in removal, it should be replaced.
(3) In heater equipped vehicles, insert drive link assembly under left side of instrument panel, posi- tion crank arm on motor shaft indexing flats on motor shaft with flats of crank arm and install crank arm retaining nut.
On models equipped with air conditioning, install drive link from under instrument panel. Install motor crank arm on motor shaft from engine compartment side of bulkhead. Position motor on studs and secure with three nuts. Place plastic bushing at end of drive link over proper pin on left pivot (See Fig. 6) and press into position. Be certain that the plastic bushing is fully seated to assure locking action in the groove on the pivot pin.
(4) Insert connecting link into place with “R” (right side) and “L” (left side) stamped in link facing in- strument panel side. Press each link bushing fully into place on the pivot crank pins.
(5) Reconnect battery cable and test the operation of the wiper system. Reinstall glove box if necessary.
C0N;MTING
LINK BUSHING
BUSHING
Fig. 6-Pivot Arm and Link Assemblies
PIVOT
REPLACEMENT
NP74A
(1) Remove battery ground cable.
(2) Using Tool C-3982, remove wiper arm assembly
(Fig. 1).
(3) From under instrument panel, remove two
re-
taining nuts from pivot mounting studs and lower pivot far enough to remove connecting link (and drive link on left pivot) from pivot crank arm pin (See Fig.
5). If air conditioning equipped, it is necessary to re- move glove box for access to right connecting link and pivot retaining nuts. Remove pivot assemblies.
(4) Install replacement pivot assembly, with new gasket and sealing washer loosely on the mounting studs.
(5) Lubricate pivot pins and snap link bushings fully into position on pivot pins.
(6) Tighten pivot mounting nuts.
(7) Reconnect battery ground cable and test wiper system for operation and parking action.
(8) Replace glove box if required and using Tool
(2-3982, install and adjust the wiper arm and blade as- semblies.
WINDSHIELD WASHERS
GENERAL INFORMATION
Dart models are equipped with a foot operated pump as standard equipment or electric washers as part of an option. Charger and Coronet models are equipped with push button electric washers as stand- ard equipment.
Foot pump equipped models have a unique reser- voir mounted in the engine compartment. Check valves are built into the rear of the foot pump to con- trol the direction of fluid flow from the reservoir to the pump and from the pump to the nozzles.
Electric pump equipped models have the electric pump assembly mounted directly to the reservoir. A permanently lubricated sealed motor is coupled to a rotor type pump. Fluid, gravity fed from the reser-
MyMopar.com
8-82
ELECTRICAL-WI
N DSH I ELD
WASH
ERS voir, is forced by the pump through rubber hoses to the nozzles which direct the streams to the wind- shields.
0
The pump and reservoir in either system are s e w iced as separate assemblies.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
FOOT PUMP
Condition Possible Cause
HIGH OPERATING EFFORT (a) Low aimed nozzles.
(b) Pinched hoses.
LOW OUTPUT (a) Low aimed nozzles.
(b) Leaky hoses.
(c) Defective pump.
Correction
(a) Adjust nozzles.
(b) Correct a s necessary.
(a) Adjust nozzles.
(b) Correct as necessary.
(c) Replace pump.
SERVICE
DIAGNOSIS
As
an aid to determine if the pump assembly is de- fective, connect a jumper wire from the blade ter- minal of the pump (Fig. 3), to the positive terminal of the battery. If pump operates, check wiring and switch. If pump does not operate, it may be defective or frozen. Replace the pump and motor assembly if defective.
Condition
INTERMITTENT
OPERATION OF
SYSTEM
MOTOR RUNS DOES
NOT PUMP FLUID
PUMP ASSEMBLY
INOPERATIVE
LOW OUTPUT
ELECTRIC
PUMP
Possible Cause
(a) Loose wiring connections.
(b) Faulty switch.
(c) Faulty motor.
(a) Nozzle jets plugged.
(b) Broken or loose hose.
(c) Faulty pump.
(d) Nozzle jet under air intake grille.
(a) Poor ground.
(b) Loose wiring terminals.
(c) Corroded terminals.
(d) Broken wires.
(e) Faulty switch.
( f ) Faulty motor.
(a) Low aimed nozzles.
(b) Poor electrical connections.
(c) Pinched
(d) or leaky hoses.
Defective motor.
Correction
(a) Repair a s necessary.
(b) Replace switch.
(c) Replace motor and pump assembly.
(a) Clean nozzle jets.
(b) Replace hose.
(c) Replace motor and pump assembly.
(d) Adjust nozzles.
(a) Clean ground
(d)
(e) Replace switch assembly.
(f) en mounting screw.
(b) Tighten terminals.
(c) Clean and tighten terminals.
Repair or wire terminal and tight- replace the wires.
Replace motor and pump assembly.
(a) Adjust nozzles.
(b)
(c) Correct as necessary.
(d)
Clean and tighten terminals.
Replace motor and pump assembly.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Nozzle Adjustment Foot pump models may be aimed higher for
To comDensate for lateral adjustment, loosen the proved water distribution. mounting *screws and move t h e nozzle k d bracket assembly until the nozzle is centered between the grille louvers. Vertical nozzle adjustment is made by bending the tab of the nozzle mounting bracket up or down.
Adjust nozzles so that the centers of the streams contact the windshield glass as shown in Figures 1 and 2. The oval pattern formed by the stream strik- ing the windshield glass is not “centered” on the center of the stream. The stream is toward the bottom of the oval pattern.
Motor and Pump Assembly im
Removal
(1) Disconnect motor feed wire connector and rubber hose from bottom of pump.
(2) Remove reservoir mounting screws, remove reservoir and pump assembly. Empty fluid from reservoir.
(3) Using a suitable extension and a 7/8 inch d e e p well socket through filler neck, remove pump mount- ing nut inside reservoir.
MyMopar.com
0
CENTER LINE OF
WINDSHIELD
3 INCH
TARGET
BOTTOM
WINDOW LIFTS--ELECTRICAL 8-83
OF RESERVOI
/
INTAKE SCREEN AND
MOUNTING NUT ASSEMBLY
MEASURE DOWN TO TOP
OF LOWER WINDSHIELD
MOULDING
N P70
Fig. 1-Washer Aiming Diagram-Darl
It may be necessary in some older pumps to use a
15/16 in. deep-well socket due to the expansion of the nylon nut through absorption of windshield washer fluid.
(4) Remove pump from bottom of reservoir and discard rubber gasket.
Installation
Any time the pump is removed from the reservoir, always replace the rubber gasket.
(1) Install new rubber gasket on reservoir (Fig. 3).
(2) Install pump assembly through gasket. Place
CENTER LINE OF
WINDSHIELD
10 INCHES
UPPER SPRAY
MEASURE DOWN TO TOP
OF LOWER WINDSHIELD
MOULDING
3 INCH
TARGET
AREA
Fig. 2-Washer Aiming Diagram-Coronet and Charger
NP71
Fig. 3-Reservoir and Pump Assembly plastic washer under screen and nut assembly, and tighten securely. Do not overtighten.
(3) Install pump and reservoir in vehicle with mounting screws making sure motor ground wire is installed under one of the mounting screws.
(4) Connect motor feed wire connector and rubber hose to pump. Fill reservoir, inspect for leaks and test operation of washer system, making sure the nozzles are adjusted properly.
FOOT
PUMP
Removal
CAUTION: Before removing foot pump, clamp the hose a t the reservoir to prevent the siphoning of washer fluid into the passenger compartment.
(1) Remove the two screws which mount the pump to the floor pan.
(2) Disconnect hoses. lnstallation
(1) Attach the hoses first.
(2) Mount pump assembly and install mounting screws.
(3) Tighten the mounting screws securely.
(4) Remove the clamp from the hose at the reser- voir.
( 5 ) Check the system for leaks and test this opera- tion of the system making sure the nozzles are prop- erly aimed.
ELECTRIC WINDOW LIFTS
Electrical Tests
Electric window lift motors are the permanent mag- net type. The motors are grounded through the mas- ter switch by a black wire attached to the left cowl panel (Fig. 1).
Circuit Breaker Test
Connect one lead of a test light to output terminal of circuit breaker and other lead to a good ground.
The test bulb should light, if not and wire continuity has been established, replace the circuit breaker.
Window Lift Switch
Remove switch from trim panel for testing pur- poses. Slide a thin blade behind the switch housing
(front and back) to depress retaining clips and pull
MyMopar.com
0
8-84
ELECTRICAL-WINDOW LIFTS
B
DOWN
A ,
Jl(j
/
/ 0
--
8
SECOND
/JUMPER
0 0
MULTIPLE
CONNECTOR
0 0
FIRST
JUMPER
SECOND \--
U 0 0
,
MULTIPLE
CONNECTOR
I I I
/
/
0 ’
I
I
0
0 01 + + t
”
- I
A 1
BATTERY
FEED
(TAN)
-
BODY GROUND (BLACK)
I
I
I
B A ~ ~ E R Y
FEED
(TAN)
T
BODY GROUND (BLACK) NN726A
Fig. 1 --testing Eledrieul Switch switch out from panel. Carefully separate multiple terminal block from switch body. Connect one lead of a test light to black wire terminal and touch other lead to tan wire terminal. The test bulb should light, if not, test wires for an open circuit. Use two jumper wires to test continuity of circuits. Connect one jump- er to the tan lead and the other end to the Up or Down terminal (opposite of glass position). Connect the other jumper to a good ground and to the opposite terminal (Fig. 1).
If motor runs, install switch body on multiple con- nector and activate switch. Should motor fail to run, replace switch body. Each switch is tested in same manner.
The motor should run, if not, test continuity of wir- ing. Should continuity be established and motor still does not run, replace motor. or Mopar 1064768 Lubri-plate.
STATION WAGON-TAIL
GATE WINDOW LIFT
Electrical Tests
A tail gate glass may not move due to a binding con- dition between the glass and run channels. Correct the binding condition before making electrical tests.
Control Switch
Disconnect black wire at control switch and hold firmly against yellow wire terminal on control switch.
The glass (if raised) should lower. Repeat test with brown wire. The glass (in lowered position) should rise. If glass operates during tests, but fails to oper- ate when the control switch lever is moved, the switch is at fault. If glass fails to move during these tests, perform the wire harness test.
Motor Bench lest
Connect a jumper from positive terminal of a test battery to one of the motor leads. Connect another jumper from the test battery negative terminal to the other motor lead and the motor should run. To re- verse direction of motor rotation, switch leads of jumper wires at test battery terminals.
Motor lubrication
With motor removed from regulator. Remove seal
(Fig. 2) from the motor gearbox housing. Apply a liberal amount of the lubricant in the gearbox hous- ing to the entire inside diameter of seal marked
“A” and the outside diameter of the gear and pinion assembly marked “B” where the seal contacts the rubber coupling.
If there is no lubricant in the gear box, fill to top of gear with Mopar 2525035 Multi-Mileage Lubricant
Wire Harness and Regulator Motor
Disconnect wire harness connector at motor. Con- nect one wire of a test light to brown wire and the other to a good body ground. Position instrument panel switch in the “UP” position. The bulb should light. Repeat test with the yellow wire, but position switch in the “DOWN” position. If bulb fails to light either time, and all wire terminals are tight, replace the circuit breaker. See “Wiring Diagrams” for ap- propriate schematic wiring diagram.
Should bulb light on one wire but not the other, inspect harness for a broken wire. If bulb lights in both tests, place one wire of test light to black wire terminal on motor and other wire to a good body ground. Position switch in either “UP” or “DOWN” position. If bulb lights, inspect for a bad ground con- nection or broken black wire. If test bulb does not light and wire harness continuity has been estab-
MyMopar.com
Fl
CAT1
0 NS 8-85
REGULATOR WIRING CLIP
CIRCUIT
Fig. 2-Window Lift Motor Lubrication lished, replace the motor. See “Group 23”.
MOTOR
COLOR CODE
TOP LIFT (Convertible
Top)
T4-BK
Control Switch
Refer to Figure 1 and appropriate wiring diagram
(See “Wiring Diagrams”) and disconnect red wire at switch. Hold firmly against yellow wire terminal on switch. The top (if raised) should start to lower. Re- peat test with the brown wire. The top (in lowered position) should start to rise. If top operates during these tests, but fails to operate when the control switch lever is moved to “UP” or “DOWN” position, the switch is at fault and should be replaced. If the top fails to operate during these tests, inspect and test wires between switch and motor.
Circuit Breaker
Disconnect the wire harness connector at the motor and connect one wire of a test light to brown Wire and the other to a good body ground. Position the instrument panel switch in the “UP” position. The bulb should light. Repeat this test with the yellow wire but position the switch in the “DOWN” position.
YELLOW
NN653A
Fig. 1 -Wiring Circuit
If the bulb fails to light either time and wire continu- ity has been established, replace the circuit breaker.
Pump Motor
Should the test bulb light on one Wire but not the other, inspect wire harness for a broken wire. If the bulb lights in both tests, place one Wire of the test light to the black wire terminal (ground) on the motor and the other wire to a good body ground.
Position the switch in either “UP” or “DOWN” posi- tion. If bulb should light inspect for a poor ground connection or broken black wire. If the bulb does not light and wire harness continuity has been established, test black wire with a needle type connector as close to motor as possible without touching motor. If bulb fails to light, replace the motor (See Group 23).
Circuit
SPECIFICATIONS
FUSES
Accessory, Tail Lamps and Cigar Lighter
Console, Emergency Flasher
Emergency, Stop and Dome
Heater and Air Conditioner
Instrument Lamps
Radio and Back-up Lamps
Stop and Dome Lamp
............
........................
........................
.........................
..........................
..............................
Car Model and Ampere Rating
Dart Coronet
20
-
20
20
3
-
20
20
-
20
3
7.5
20
Circuit
Convertible Top
Headlights
Power Tail Gate
Charger
20
-
20
20
3
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
Location
Integral with top lift switch
............
Instrument panel cluster behind ammeter
Integral with headlight switch
..........
Instrument panel cluster behind ammeter
Car
Dart
30
-
-
Model and Ampere Rating
-
Charger
-
30
20
30
30
20
-
MyMopar.com
8-86 ELECTRICAL-SPECI FlCATlO
NS
0
Power Windows
Windshield Wipers
Car Model and Ampere Rating
Dart Coronet Charger
Instrument panel cluster behind ammeter
Integral with wiper switch
..............
-
6
30
7.5
30
7.5
BATTERY
Engine Usage
................................
Capacity (Ampere Hours)
Vo I tage
Number of Plates Per Cell
.....................
....................
38
12
7
Ground Terminal
Model Identification Number
Engine Usage
.............................
................................
Negative
2bH B-38
383 Cu. In.
Engine
Standard Equipment
Capacity (Ampere Hours)
Vo I tage
Ground Terminal
......................
......................................
Number of Plates Per Cell
....................
Model Identification Number
Engine Usage
..................
................................
Capacity (Ampere Hours)
Voltage
Number of Plates Per Cell
Ground Terminal
.....................
....................
.............................
Model Identification Number
..................
170 Cu. In.
Engine
170 Cu. In.
Engine
Standard Equipment Special Equipment
59
12
11
Negative
24-M B-59
48
12
9
Negative
24-M B-48
225, 273, LA-318 and
340 Cu. In. Engines
Standard Equipment
48
12
9
Negative
24-MB-48
170, 225, 273, and
170, 225, 273,
LA-318, and
340 Cu. In. Engine 340 Cu. In. Engines
Special Equipment Special Equipment
59
12
11
Negative
24-M B-59
70
12
11
Negative
24-H B-70R
426 and 440 383 Cu. In.,
Cu. In. Engines Standard 440 Cu. In. Engines
Equipment Special Equipment
70 70
12
13
Negative
27-M 8-70
12
13
Negative
27-M B-70R
GEAR REDUCTION STARTING
MOTOR
(All Models Equipped with the 170 Cu. In. Engine)
Starting Motor Model
Make
Voltage
...........................................................
No. of Fields
No. of Poles
Brushes
End Play
.........................................................
....................................................
.....................................................
.........................................................
Spring Tension
Drive
............................................
...........................................................
........................................................
....................................
2098500
Chrysler
12
4 (4 Series)
4
4
32 to 36 Ounces
Solenoid Shift Overrunning Clutch
.010"-.045"
Cranking Amperage Draw Test
Free-Running Test
Voltage
.......................................................
Amperage Draw Maximum
Minimum Speed RPM
..........................................
*155 to 170 Amps.
11
......................................
90
2950
Locked Resistance Test
Voltage
Amperage Draw
Solenoid
.......................................................
Pull-In Coil
Hold-In Coil
................................................
4
340 to 420
13.3 to 14.9 Amps. @ 6.0Volts at 77OF.
8.0 to 9.0 Amps. @ 6.0Volts a t 77OF.
* Engine should be at operating temperature.
GEAR REDUCTION STARTING M O T O R
(MI Except Models Equipped with the 170 Cu. In. Engine)
Starting Motor Model
Make
Voltage
No. of Fields
............................................
2095150
C h rysler
.........................................................
....................................................
12
4 (3 Series, 1
MyMopar.com
0
SPECIFICATIONS-ELECTRICAL 8-87
No.
of Poles
Brushes
.....................................................
...........................................................
End Play
Voltage
.........................................................
Spring Tension
Drive
..................................................
........................................................
Cranking Amperage Draw Test
Free-Running Test
....................................
.......................................................
Amperage Draw
Speed RPM
...................................................
Locked Resistan
Voltage
.....
................................................
................................................
4
4
32 to 36 Ounces
Overrunning Clutch
.010”-.045”
*155 to 170 Amps. 273 Cu. In. Engines
*165 to 180 Amps. 225,318 and
Cu. In. Engines
*180 to 200 Amps. 383,426 and 440
Engines
340
Cu.
11
90
1925 to 2600
4
400 to 450
Solenoid
Pull-In Coil
Hold-In Coil
. .
.
..................................................
..................................................
13.3 to 14.9 Amps. @ E
8.0 to 9.0 Amps. @ t i.0 Volts at 77°F.
5.0 Volts at 77OF.
* Engine should
’ be at operating temperature
STARTING MOTOR
(Direct Drive)
(Taxi with 11 Inch Clutch and 225 Cu. In. Engine)
Starting Motor Model
Make
No. of Fields
No. of Poles
Brushes
...................................................
...................................................................
Voltage
.................................................................
...........................................................
............................................................
................................................................
Spring Tension
Drive
.........................................................
...................................................................
End Play
Cranking Amper
Free-Running TE
Voltage
Amperage Dra
Minimum Spe
Voltage
Solenoid
......
......
Pull-In Coil
.........................................................
...........................................
.........................................................
....................................................... ed RPM
Locked-Resistan
......
Amperage Dra age Draw Test w
. .
Test
.................................................
.......................................................
.........................................................
Hold-In Coil
..........................................................
1889100
Chrvsler Built s 1
$2 to 36 Ounces
Solenoid Shift
Overrunning Clutch
.005” M in i m u m
165-185 Amps.*
11
78 Amps. Ma iximum
3800 RPM
4
310 to 445
22.4 to
@
24.0 A
6.0 Volts
8.3 to 9.3 Amps.
@ 6.0 Volts and 77°F.
* Engine should be a t operating temperature.
DIRECT DRIVE STARTING MOTOR
(426 Cu. In. Engine-Hemi-Street Package-Manual transmission)
Starting Motor Model
Make
...................................................................
Voltage
Brushes
................................................................
No. of Fields
No. of Poles
................................................................
Spring Tension
.........................................................
2642930
Chrysler Built
12
4
4
(3 Series 1 Shunt)
32 to 36 Ounces
MyMopar.com
8-88 E LECTR I CAL-S PEC I FlCATlO
N
S
Drive
...................................................................
End Play
...............................................................
Cranking Amperage Draw Test
Free-R un ning Test
Vo I
...............................................................
Amperage Draw
.......................................................
Minimum Speed RPM
...........................................
.................................................
Locked-Resistance Test
Voltage
...............................................................
Amperage Draw
Solenoid
Pull-In Coil
.......................................................
...........................................................
Hold-In Coil
..........................................................
Solenoid Shift
Overrunning Clutch
.005" Minimum
180 to 220 Amps.
*
11
78 Amps. Maximum
3800 Minimum
4
310 to 445
22.4 to 24.0 Amps. at Volts and 77OF.
8.3 to 9.3 Amps. at 6 77OF.
*
Engine Should Be A t Operating Temperature.
0
ALTERNATOR
Rotation
Voltage
............................................................
Clockwise at Drive End
.............................................................
Current Output
Voltage Output
Brushes (Field)
C u rre n t 0 ut p u t-
......................................................
......................................................
......................................................
2
Condenser Capacity
Field Current Draw @
Standard With
Standard with
170
Special Equipment
................................................. or
12 Volts
225
.......................................
Cu. In. Engine
426,
Special Equipment,
Heavy Duty and/or Air Conditioning
.............................
Engines
...................
..............................
................................................
12 Volt System
Design Controlled
Limited by Voltage Regulator
Microfarad plus or minus 20%
2.38 to 2.75 Maximum amperes
26 plus or minus 3 amperes*
34.5 plus or minus
41 plus or minus
51 plus or minus
3 amperes*
3
*Plus or minus three ampere tolerance ured at is provided to allow for temperature variation. Current output is meas-
1250 engine RPM and 15 volts at the alternator. If measured at the battery, current output will be ap- proximately 5 amperes lower than above values. This is a test point and not the maximum output.
Voltage is controlled by variable load (carbon pile) across the battery.
ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE REGULATOR
Alternator Voltage
Regulator Identification Number
Volts
(Chrysler Built)
.................................
2098300
...........................................................
Ground Polarity
Point Gap
12
.................................................
Negative
Air Gap
......................................................
.014 inch plus or minus
........................................................
.048 to .052 inch nominal setting**
**Measure gap with gauge back of stop.
Temperature in Degrees, 1/4 inch from Regulator Cover 47'F. 70'F. 93'F. 117'F. 140'F. 163'F.
Minimum Setting
Maximum Setting
..................................
13.6
14.6 to 13.5
14.5 to 13.4
14.4 to 13.3
14.3 to 13.2
14.2 to 13.1
14.1 to
MyMopar.com
0
S PEC
I FI
CAT1
0
NS-E LECTR I CAL 8-89
IGNITION SYSTEM
WITH CLEANER AIR PACKAGE
Engine Application
Engine Displacement
....................
Distributor Part No.-(Chrysler Built)
Advance-Centrifugal (Distributor
Degrees at Distributor RPM)
......
............
Manual Trans.
170 Cu. In.
2875813
Automatic Trans.
170 Cu. In.
2875855
2" to 6" @ 600 RPM
12.5" to 14.5' @ 1100 RPM
17" to 19" @ 2200 RPM
Advance-Vacuum (Distributor
Degrees at Inches of Mercury)
..........
Contact Gap
Dwell Angle
.............................
.............................
Contact Arm Spring Tension
Condenser Capacity
......................
Shaft Side Play (New or Rebuilt)
Shaft End Play (After Assembly)
Rotation
Timing
..............
..........
..................................
Spark Plug Type
..........
................................
.........................
Size
Gap
Coi I
..................................
..................................
Firing Order
.............................
....................................
Identification Number
..................
Primary Resistance @ 7O0-8O"F
Secondary Resistance @ 7O"-8O0F
Ballast Resistor
Resistance @ 7O"-8O0F
................. in circuit) Engine Stopped
Engine Idling
........
.......
Current Draw (Coil and ballast resistor
..............
................
*
Service wear tolerance should not exceed .006 inch.
**
Set at idle speed; See "Idle Speed Adjustment, Fuel System."
1" to 8" @ 550 RPM
9" to 11" @ 900 RPM
14" to 16" @ 2200 RPM
1" to 4" @ 7.5"
6" to 8.5" @ 10"
1" to 4" @ 7.5"
6" to 8" @ 10"
.017" to .023"
42" to 47"
17 to 20
OZ.
.25 to .285 mfd.
.000" to .003"
*
.017" to .023"
42" to 47"
17 to 20
02.
.25 to .285 mfd.
.OOO" to .003"
*
.003N to .017"
Clockwise
.003" to .017"
C I oc kw ise
5"ATC**
N14Y-Champion or
P-66P MoDar
14MM3/4" Reach
TDC
N14Y-Champion or
P-6-6P Mopar
14MM-3/4" Reach
.035"
1-5-3-6-2-4 i - o r -
.035"
1-5I3-6-2-4
2444242
1.65 to 1.70 Ohms
9400 to 11700 Ohms
2095501
0.5 to 0.6 Ohms
C h rysl er-Essex
2444241
1.41 to 1.55 Ohms
9200 to 10600 Ohms
3.0 amperes
1.9 amperes
IGNITION
SYSTEM
Engine Application
WITH CLEANER AIR PACKAGE
225 225
Manual Transmission Automatic Transmission
Engine Displacement
....................
Distributor Part No.-(Chrysler Built)
225 Cu. In.
......
2875822
Advance-Centrifugal (Distributor
Degrees at Distributor RPM)
............
1" to 5" @ 550 RPM
9.5" to 11.5" @ 1000 RPM
12" to 14" @ 2000 RPM
Advance-Vacuum (Distributor
Degrees at Inches of Mercury)
..........
Contact Gap
Dwell Angle
.............................
.............................
Contact Arm Spring Tension
Condenser Capacity
......................
Shaft Side Play (New or Rebuilt)
Shaft End Play (After Assembly)
Rota tion
Timing
..............
..........
..........
................................
..................................
Spark Plug Type
.........................
0.5" to 3.5" @ 10"
5.25" to 7.75" @ 16"
.017" to .023"
42" to 47"
17 to 20 oz.
.25 to .285 mfd.
.OOo" to .003"
.003" to .017"
Clockwise
TDC**
*
N14Y-Champion or
P-6-6P Mopar
225 Cu. In.
2875826
1" to 5" @ 550 RPM
9.5" to 11.5" @ 1000 RPM
12" to 14" @ 2000 RPM
0.5" to 3.5" @ 7"
5.25" to 7.75" @ 10"
.017" to .023"
42" to 47.
17 to 20
02.
.25 to ,285 mfd.
.OOo" to .003"
.003'! to .017"
Clockwise
TDC**
*
N14Y-Champion or
P-6-6P Mopar
MyMopar.com
8-90 E LECTR ICAL-S PEC
I N
S
~~~
Size
Gap
Coi I
..................................
..................................
Firing Order
.............................
....................................
Identification Number
Primary Resistance @ 7Oo-8O0F
Secondary Resistance @ 7O0-8O0F
Ballast Resistor
..................
Resistance @ 7O0-8O0F in circuit) Engine Stopped
Engine Idling
........
.......
.................
Current Draw (Coil and ballast resistor
..............
................
225
WITH CLEANER AIR PACKAGE
225
Manual Trans. Automatic Trans.
~ ~~
14MM3/4" Reach
.035"
1-5-3-6-2-4
C h rysler-Presto1 ite -or-
2444242
1.65 to 1.79 Ohms
9400 to 11700 Ohms
14MM3/4" Reach
.035"
1-5-3-6-2-4
*
Chrysler-Essex
2444241
1.41 to 1.55 Ohms
9200 to 10600 Ohms
2095501
0.5 to 0.6 Ohms
3.0 amperes
1.9 amperes
* Service wear tolerance should not exceed .006 inch.
**
Set at idle speed; See "Idle Speed Adjustment, Fuel System."
Engine Application
~
Engine Displacement
....................
Distributor Part No.-(Chrysler Built)
......
IGNITION SYSTEM
WITH CLEANER AIR PACKAGE
273
2-Barrel Carburetor
Manual or Automatic Trans.
273 Cu. In.
2875790
Advance-CentrifugaI (Distributor
Degrees at Distributor RPM)
............
2" to 8.5" @ 550 RPM
11.5" to 13.5" @ 900 RPM
'
14" to 16" @ 1900 RPM
Advance-Vacuum (Distributor
Degrees at Inches of Mercury)
..........
Contact Gap
Dwell Angle
Contact Arm Spring Tension
Condenser Capacity
Shaft Side Play (New
Shaft End Play (After Assembly)
Rotation
.............................
.............................
Timing
Spark Plug Type or
..............
......................
Rebuilt)
..........
..........
................................
..................................
.........................
Size
Gap
Firing Order
Coil
..................................
..................................
.............................
....................................
Identification Number
Ballast Resistor
..................
Primary Resistance @ 7O0-8O0F
........
Secondary Resistance @ 7O0-8O0F
Resistance @ 7O0-8O0F
Current Draw (Coil and ballast resistor in circuit) Engine Stopped
Engine Idling
.......
.................
..............
................
*
Service wear tolerance should not exceed .006 inch.
** Set at idle speed; See "Idle Speed Adjustment, Fuel System."
2" to 5.5" @ 8.5"
10.5" to 13.5" @ 13.5"
.014" to .019"
30" to 35"
17 to 20 oz.
.25 to .285 mfd.
.OOo" to
*
.003" to .017"
Clockwise
2-1/2" ATC:
N14Y Champion or
P6-6P Mopar
14M M-3/4" Reach
.035"
1-8-4-3657-2
Chrysler-Prestolite Ch sler-Essex
2444242 %44241
1.65 to 1.79 Ohms
9400 to 11700 Ohms
1.41 to 1.55 Ohms
9200 to 10600 Ohms
2095501
0.5 to 0.6 Ohms
3.0 amperes
1.9 amperes
0
MyMopar.com
0
SPEC I FICATIO NS-ELECTR ICAL 8-91
IGNITION SYSTEM
Engine Application
340
WITH CLEANER AIR PACKAGE
340
4-Barrel Carburetor 4-Barrel Carburetor
Manual Transmission Automatic Transmission
Engine Displacement
....................
Distributor Part No.-(Chrysler Built)
.....
Advance-Centr i
(Prestolite Built) f uga I (Distributor
Degrees at Distributor RPM)
.....
...........
340 Cu. In.
2875782
I BS-4015B
340 Cu. In.
2875779
Contact Gap
Dwell Angle
.............................
.............................
1" to 6.5" @ 550 RPM
9.5" to 11.5" @ 900 RPM
120 to 140 @ iaoo
RPM
2" to 6" @ 600 RPM
7" to 9" @ 900 RPM
10" to 12" @ 2000 RPM
Advance-Vacuum (Distributor
Degrees at Inches of Mercury)
..........
Contact Arm Spring Tension
Condenser Capacity
Rota tion
Timing
..............
......................
Shaft Side Play (New or Rebuilt)
Shaft End Play (After Assembly)
.................................
Spark Plug Type
Size
Gap
..........
...........
.................................
.........................
..................................
...................................
Firing Order
.............................
Coi I
....................................
Identification Number
Resistance @ 70°-800F
..................
Primary Resistance @ 7O0-8O"F
. .
Engine Idling
.........
Secondary Resistance @ 7O0-8O0F
Ballast Resistor
.......
.................
Current Draw (Coil and ballast resistor
.............
...............
20 to 5.50 @ a"
7" to 10" @ 10.5"
.014" to .019" one set points 27" to 32" both sets points 37" to 42"
17 to 21.5 02.
2 5 to ,285 mfd.
.OOo" to .003"*
,003'' to .017"
Clockwise
TDC**
N9Y-Champion
14MM-3/4" Reach
.035"
1-843-6-57-2
20 to 5.50 @ at!
7" to 10" @ 10.5"
.014" to .019"
30" to 35"
17 to 20
02.
.25 to .2a5 mfd.
.OOO" to .003"*
,003'' to .017" ockw ise
5" BTC**
N9Y-ChamDion
14M M-3/4" Reach
_ _ _ _
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
C h rys le r- Essex -or-
2444241
1.41 to 1.55 Ohms
9200 to 10600 Ohms
0.6
C h rys I
Ohms e r-P restol
2444242 i
1.65 to 1.79 Ohms
9400 to 11700 Ohms
2095501
0.5 to te
*
Service wear tolerance should not exceed ,006 inch.
**
Set at idle speed; See "Idle Speed Adjustment, Fuel System."
3.0 amperes
1.9 amDeres
I - -
~~
IGNITION
SYSTEM
Engine Application
Engine Displacement
....................
Distributor Part No.-(Chrysler Built)
......
Advance-Centrifugal (Distributor
Degrees a t Distributor RPM)
............
WITH CLEANER AIR PACKAGE
LA-3 1 8
2-Barrel Carburetor
Manual and Automatic Trans.
318 Cu. In.
28757%
Advance-Vacuum (Distributor
Degrees at Inches of Mercury)
..........
Contact Gap
Dwell Angle
Rotation
.............................
.............................
Contact Arm Spring Tension
Condenser Capacity
..............
......................
Shaft Side Play (New or Rebuilt)
Shaft End Play (After Assembly)
..........
..........
................................
1.5" to 6.5" @ 550 RPM
7.5' to 9.5" @ 850 RPM
17" to 19" @ 2400 RPM
1" to 4" @ 10.5''
8.250 to 10.75" a t 15"
.014" to .019"
30" to 35"
17 to 20
.OW"
oz.
.25 to .2a5 mfd. to .003"
.003" to .017"
Clockwise
*
MyMopar.com
&92 E LE CT R IC
A
L-S P
E F CAT1
0
N
S
Timing
..................................
Spark Plug Type
.........................
Size
Gap
..................................
..................................
Firing Order
Coi I
.............................
....................................
Identification Number
Primary Resistance @ 70°-80"F
Secondary Resistance @ 7O0-8O0F
Ba I last Resistor
Resistance @ 7O0-8O"F
.................. in circuit) Engine Stopped
Engine Idling
........
.......
.................
Current Draw (Coil and ballast resistor
..............
................
TDC**
N-14Y Champion or
P-6-6P Mopar
14MM3/4" Reach
.035"
1-8-4-3-6-57-2
Chrysler-Prestolite 4 r - Chrysler-Essex
2444242
1.65 to 1.79 Ohms
2444241
1.41 to 1.55 Ohms
9400 to 11700 Ohms 9200 to lo600 Ohms
2095501
0.5 to 0.6 Ohms
*
Service wear tolerance should not exceed .006 inch.
** Set at idle speed; See "Idle Speed Adjustment, Fuel System."
3.0 amperes
1.9 amperes
IGNITION SYSTEM
Engine Application
Engine Displacement
....................
Distributor Part No.-(Chrysler Built)
......
WITH CLEANER AIR PACKAGE
383
2-Barrel Carburetor
Manual Trans.
383
2-Barrd Carbumtor
Automatic Trans.
383 Cu. In.
2875742
383 Cu. In.
2875747
Advance-Centrifugal (Distributor
Degrees at Distributor RPM)
............
1" to 9.5" @ 550 RPM
11" to 13" @ 800 RPM
21" to 23" @ 2350 RPM
1" to 6" 500 RPM
8" to 10" @ 750 RPM
17" to 19" @ 2300 RPM
Advance-Vacuum (Distributor
Degrees at Inches of Mercury)
..........
Contact Gap
Dwell Angle
.............................
.............................
Contact Arm Spring Tension
Condenser Capacity
..............
......................
Shaft Side Play (New or Rebuilt)
Shaft End Play (After Assembly)
Rotation
Timing
................................
..................................
Spark Plug Type
.........................
Size
Gap
..................................
..................................
Firing Order
Coi I
.............................
Identification Number
Ba I last Resistor
Resistance @ 70°-800F
..................
Primary Resistance @ 70°-800F
........
Secondary Resistance @ 70°-800F
Current Draw (Coil and ballast resistor in circuit) Engine Stopped
Engine Idling
.......
.................
.:.. ....
2" to 5.5" @ 8.5"
10.5" to 13.5" @ 13.5"
.014" to .019"
30" to 35"
17 to 20
02.
.25 to .285 mfd.
.OOo" to .oo3"*
.003" to .017If
Counterclockwise
**
20 to 5.50 @ 8.5"
10.5" to 13.5' @ 13.5''
.014" to .01Y'
30" to 35"
17 to 20 oz.
.25 to .285 mfd.
.ooO" to .003"*
.003" to .017"
Co u n terc I ockwise
TDC
J-14Y Champion or
P-36P MOPAR
14MM 3/8" Reach
,035''
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
C h rysl er-Essex -or-
2444241
1.41 to 1.55 Ohms
9200 t o 10600 Ohms
C
7 1/2" BTC**
J-14Y Champion
P-36P MOPAR
14MM 318" Reach
.035"
1-8-4-3-65-7-2 hrys ler-Presto1 i
2444242
1.65 to 1.79 Ohms
9400 to 11700 Ohms
2095501
0.5 to 0.6 Ohms or
* Service wear tolerance should not exceed .006 inch.
** Set at idle speed; See "Idle Speed Adjustment, Fuel System."
3.0 Amperes
1.9 Amperes
0
MyMopar.com
0
SPECIFICATIONS-ELECTRICAL 8-93
Enaine Application
Engine Displacement
.....................
Distributor Part No.-(Chrysler Built)
Advance-Centrifugal (Distributor
Degrees at Distributor RPM)
......
............
IGNITION SYSTEM
WITH CLEANER AIR PACKAGE
383
4-Barrel Carburetor
Manual Transmission
383
4-Barrel Carburetor
Automatic Transmission
383 Cu. In.
2875750
383 Cu. In.
2875731
1" to 7" @ 550 RPM
12" to 14" @ 900 RPM
17" to 19" @ 2500 RPM
1" to 7.5" @ 550 RPM
10.5" to 12.5" @ 850 RPM
15" to 17" @ 2500 RPM
Advancevacuum (Distributor
Degrees at Inches of Mercury)
..........
Contact Gap
Dwell Angle
.............................
.............................
Contact Arm Spring Tension
Condenser Capacity
..............
......................
Shaft Side Play (New or Rebuilt)
Shaft End Play (After Assembly)
Rotation
Timing
Spark Plug Type
..........
...........
.................................
.................................
.........................
Size
Gap
..................................
...................................
Firing Order
Coi I
.............................
.....................................
Identification Number
..................
Primary Resistance @ 7O0-8O0F
Secondary Resistance @ 7O0-8O0F
Ba I last Resistor
.........
.......
Resistance @ 7O0-8O0F
.................
Current Draw (Coil and ballast resistor in circuit) Engine Stopped
Engine Idling
.............
...............
0.5" to 3.5" @ 8"
9" to 12" @ 15"
,014'' to .019"
30" to 35"
17 to 20 oz.
2 5 to .285 mfd.
.om" to .003"*
.003" to ,017''
Counterclockwise
TDC
**
J-11Y Champion or
P3-4P Mopar***
14MM-3/8" Reach
.035"
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
0.5" to 3.5" i@ 8"
9" to 12" @ 15"
.014" to .019"
30" to 35"
17 to 20
02.
.25 to .285 mfd.
.OOo" to .003"*
.003" to .017"
Counterclockwise
5" BTC
**
J-11Y Champion or
P-3-4P Mopar***
14MM-318" Reach
.035"
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Chrysler-Presto1 i
2444242
-or- Chrysler-Essex
2444241
1.65 to 1.79 Ohms 1.41 to 1.55 Ohms
9400 to 11700 Ohms 9200 to 10600 Ohms
2095501
0.5 to 0.6 Ohms
3.0 amDeres
1.9 amperes
*
Service wear tolerance should not exceed .006 inch.
**
Set at idle speed; See "Idle Speed Adjustment, Fuel System."
*** J-11Y Champion. I f J-11Y are not available, use Mopar P-3-4P or Champion J-10-Y.
IGNITION
SYSTEM
WITH CLEANER AIR PACKAGE
Engine Application
~ ~~
Engine Displacement
....................
Distributor Part No.-(Chrysler No.
(Prestolite Built) bu tor
Degrees at Distributor RPM)
.....
............
383
4-Barrel Carburetor
Manual (Formula "S"
Transmission
Only)
383 Cu. In.
2875715
I BS-4016A
1" to 7" @ 550 RPM
12" to 14" @ 900 RPM
17" to 19" @ 2500 RPM
Advance-Vacuum (Distributor
Degrees at Inches Mercury)
............
Contact Gap
Dwell Angle
............................
.............................
Contact Arm Spring Tension
Condenser Capacity
..............
......................
383
4-Barrel Carburetor
Automatic (Formula "S' Only)
Transmission
383 Cu. In.
2875846
I BS-4016
1" to 7.5" @ 550 RPM
10.5" to 12.5" @ 850 RPM
15" to 17" @ 2500 RPM
0.5" to 3.5" @ 8"
9" to 12" @ 15"
.014" to .019"
27"
1" to 3.5" @ 8"
9" to 12" @ 15"
.014" to .019"
-
32" one set; both sets 37"
-
42" one set points 27"-32"
17 to 21.5
02.
.25 to .285 mfd. both sets points 37O-42"
17 to 21.5 oz.
.25 to .285 mfd.
MyMopar.com
8-94 ELECTRICAL-SPECIFICATIONS
Shaft Side Play (New or Rebuilt)
Shaft End Play (After Assembly)
Rotation
Timing
..........
..........
................................
..................................
Spark Plug Type
.........................
Size
Gap
Coi I
..................................
...................................
Firing Order
.............................
....................................
Identification Number
..................
Primary Resistance @ 7O0-8O0F.
Resistance @ 70°-800F. in circuit) Engine Stopped
Engine Idling
........
Secondary Resistance @ 70°-80”F.
Ballast Resistor
......
................
Current Draw (Coil and ballast resistor
..............
................
.000” to .003”*
.003” to .017”
Counterclockwise
TDC
J-11Y Champion or
P-3-4P Mopar***
.OOo” to .003”*
.003“ to .017”
Counterclockwise
5” BTC**
J-11Y Champion or
P-3-4P MoPar***
14 M M -31 8” Reach
.035”
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
2444242
1.65 to 1.79 Ohms
9400 to 11700 Ohms
14MM-3/8” Reach
.035”
1,8-4-3-6-57-2
C h rysler-Prestolite-or-C h rysler-Essex
2444241
1.41 to 1.55 Ohms
9200 to 10600 Ohms
2095501
0.5 to 0.6 Ohms
3.0 amperes
1.9 amperes
* Service wear tolerance should not exceed .006 inch
**
Set at idle speed: See “Idle Speed Adjustment, Fuel System.”
*** J-11Y Champion. I f J-1lY are not available, use MoPar P3-4P or Champion J-1OY.
IGNITION SYSTEM
WITH CLEANER AIR PACKAGE
Engine Application
Hemi-426 ENGINE-A102
Two 4-Barrel Carburetors
Manual or Automatic Trans.
Engine Displacement
........................................
Distributor Part No.-(Chrysler Built)
........................
(Prestolite Bui It)
.......................
426 Cu. In.
2875140
Advance-Centrifugal (Distributor
Degrees at Distributor RPM)
...............................
2.5” to 9.5” @ 650 RPM
10” to 12” @ 850 RPM
Advance-Vacuum (Distributor
Degrees at Inches of Mercury)
Contact Gap
Dwell Angle
Size
Gap
.................................
.....................................................
Firing Order
Coil
Current Draw (Coil and ballast resistor in circuit)
Engine Stopped
Engine Idling
.............................
................................................
................................................
Contact Arm Spring Tension
Condenser Capacity
.........................................
Shaft Side Play (New or Rebuilt)
Shaft End Play (After Assembly)
Rotation
Timing
.............................
..............................
....................................................
....................................................
Spark Plug Type
............................................
......................................................
................................................
........................................................
.....................................
..........................
....................................
...........................................
.............................................
14” to 16” @ 1550 RPM
1.5” to 4.5” @ 10”
8.25” to 11” @ 15”
.014” to .019”
Individual Contacts 27”
32”
Total Dwell 37”
17 to 21.5 oz.
.25 to .285 mfd. to
.OOo” to
,003” to ,017”
Counterclockwise
TDC
42O
**
NlOY Champion
14M M-3/4” Reach
.035”
1-8-4-3-6-57-2
Chrysler-Prestolite -or- to
Chrysler-Essex
Identification Number
Primary Resistance @ 7O”-8O0F
Secondary Resistance @ 70”-80”F
Ballast Resistor
Resistance @ 7O0-8O0F
............................
2444242
1.65 to 1.79 Ohms
9400 to 11700 Ohms
2095501
0.5 to 0.6 Ohms
2444241
1.41 to 1.55 Ohms
9200 to 10600 Ohms
3.0 amperes
1.9 amperes
* Service wear tolerance should not exceed ,006 inch.
**
Set at idle speed; See “Idle Speed Adjustment, Fuel System.”
0
MyMopar.com
0
SPECIFICATIONS-ELECTRICAL 8-95
Engine Application
Engine Displacement
....................
Distributor Part No.-(Chrysler Built)
(Prestolite Built)
Advance-Centrifugal (Distributor
Degrees at Distributor RPM)
.....
....
............
IGNITION SYSTEM
WITH CLEANER AIR PACKAGE
A1 34-Hi-Performance
440
4-Barrel Carburetor
Manual Trans.
440
4-Barrel Carburetor
Automatic Trans.
440 Cu. In.
2875772
1 BS-4014B
440 Cu. In.
2875758
1" to 8.5" @ 550 RPM
11.5" to 13.5" @ 850 RPM
17" to 19" @ 2500 RPM
2" to 7" @ 550 RPM
9" to 11" @ 850 RPM
14" to 16" @ 2400 RPM
Advance-Vacuum (Distributor
Degrees at Inches of Mercury)
..........
Contact Gap
Dwell Angle
.
:
............................
.............................
Contact Arm Spring Tension
Condenser Capacity
..............
......................
Shaft Side Play (New or Rebuilt)
Shaft End Play (After Assembly)
Rotation
Timing
Spark Plug Type
..........
..........
................................
..................................
.........................
Size
Gap
Firing Order
Coi I
Identification Number
Primary Resistance @ 7O0-8O"F
Secondary Resistance @ 7O0-8O"F
Ba I
..................................
..................................
.............................
.................................... last Resistor
Resistance @ 7O"-8O0F
-
..................
. .
................. in circuit) Engine StODDed
Engine Idling
........
.......
Current Draw (Coil and ballast resistor
................
1" to 4' @ 10.5"
9" to 12" @ 16"
.014" to ,019''
One set points 27" to 32"
Both set points 37" to 42"
17 to 21.5 oz.
1" to 4" @ 10.5"
9" to 12" @ 16"
.014" to ,019''
30" to 35"
.25 to .285 mfd.
.000" to .003"
**
*
.003" to .017"
Cou nter-Clockwise
TDC
J l l Y Champion
.035"
1-8-4-3-6-57-2 or
P-3-4P Mopar***
14M M3/8" Reach
17 to 20 oz.
.25 to .285 mfd.
.OOo" to .003"
.003" to .017"
**
*
Counter-Clockwise
5" BTC
J l l Y Champion or
P-3-4P Mopar***
14MM-318'' Reach
.035"
1-8-4-3-6-57-2
Chrysler-Essex d r - C h rysler-Presto1
2444241 2444242
1.41 to 1.55 Ohms
9200 t o 10700 Ohms
1.65 to 1.79 Ohms
9400 to 11700 Ohms
2095501
0.5 to 0.6 Ohms
3.0 amberes i.3 amperes
*
Service wear tolerance should not exceed .006 inch.
** Set at idle speed; See "Idle Speed Adjustment, Fuel System."
***
If J-11Y. Champion or P-3-4P Mopar are not available, use Champion J-1OY.
Air Conditioning Indicator
Ash Receiver
Back-up Lights
Brake System Warning Light
Clock
Courtesy Lamp
Dome and/or "C" Pillar Light
Door, Pocket Panel and/or Reading Light
Fender Mounted Turn Signal Indicator
(Tail Lamp Only)
Ignition Lamp
..............
..................................
Gear Selector Indicator
Gear Selector with Console
Glove Compartment
High Beam Indicator
LIGHT BULBS
..........................
......................................
....................................
.......................
.............................................
....................................
......................
.........................
..............................
.....................................
Dart
** 1445
** 1445
1156 (2)
57
1004
90
330 (2)
** 1445
**
57
1891
158
1445
Coronet
** 1892 (2)
**
1892
1156 (2)
158
**
57
89
1004
90
330 (2)
** 1445
**
57
1891
158
1445
Charger*
**
1892 (2)
**
53
1156 (2)
*
89
1004
90
1816 (2)
1095 (2)
** 1445
**
57
***
i 8 9 i
57
1445
MyMopar.com
8-96 ELECTRICAL-WIRING DIAGRAMS
Instrument Cluster Illumination
License Light
Map Light
Oil Pressure Indicator
Park and Turn Signal
Radio
Radio with Tape
Sealed Beam-Hi-Beam
.............................
..............................
(No.
Sealed Beam-Hi-Lo Beam
Sealed Beam-Single
Tachometer
“7”
Tail, Stop and Turn Signal
1)
....................
.....................................
........................................
............................................
..................................
Reverse CSpeed Transmission Indicator
....................
(No. 2)
..........................
.........................
Trunk and/or Under Hood Light
Turn Signal Indicator (panel)
............
..................
.......................................
....................
.......................
Dart
**
158 (4)
67
**
89
158
1816
53
6012
(2)
1157 (2)
1004
158 (2)
*Included in Instrument Cluster Lighting.
** Headlamp Rheostat Dimming.
***
Hood Mounted.
Coronet
**
158(4)
67
90
158
1157 (2)
**
1816
**
1815
53
4001
4002
**
57
1157 (2)
1004
158 (2)
0
Charger.
**
57 (3) 158(3)
67
90
Gauge
1157 A (2)
**
1816
53
4001
4002
*
1157 (4)
1004
57 (2)
WIRING DIAGRAMS
INDEX
Front End Lighting-Charger
Front End Lighting-Coronet
Front End Lighting-Dart
...................
Instrument Panel Accessory Wiring
Diagram-Coronet
......................
........................
Instrument Panel Wiring Diagram-Coronet
Page
..................
100
100
99
104-105 instrument Panel Wiring Diagram-Charger
Instrument Panel Wiring Diagram-Dart
Rear Window Defogger Wiring Diagram-
A l l Models
Coronet
. .
106-107
. .
......
108-109
102-103
..................................
Speed Control Wiring Diagram-Charger and
.....................................
96
111 a
BI
1 1
-$ i i
”
FUSE
L e 8 # s e e e , BLOCK
ACC.
BK
LGN
W
BLACK
LIGHT GREEN
WHITE
TO REAR
WINDOW DEFOGGER
Fig. I -Rear Window Defogger Wiring Diagram-All Models
NR226A
MyMopar.com
0
/-M2-18Y- TO INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING
TO RIGHT FRONT DOOR SWITCH
M2-
W
I
L
ECTR I C A L 8-97
I LEGEND
I
RIGHT TAIL,STOP AND
TURN SIGNAL LAMP
62-18V
4
FEMALE
INSULATORS VIEWED
FROM TERMINAL SIDE
RIGHT BACK-UP LAMP
(TWO DOOR HARDTOP,
TWO DOOR CONVERTIBLE AND
FOUR DOOR SEDANS ONLY)
0--
17-18BK
TURN SIGNAL LAMP
Fig. 3-Body Wiring Diagram-Station Wagon-Coronet
MyMopar.com
8-98
E
LECTR ICAL-WI RI
N
G DIAGRAMS
PANEL WIRING
MI I-IBBK-MI
TRUNK LAMP WIRING
TO TRUNK LAMP SWITCH
TO FUEL
GAUGE
G4-18DBL
(
TO (NSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING
L7-'18BK
SPLICE
LEGEND
FEMALE
INSULATORS VIEWED
FROM TERMINAL SIDE
TO RIGHT TAIL,
-STOP AND TURN
SIGNAL LAMP
TO RIGHT
BACK
-
UP LAMP
TO LICENSE LAMP
0
TO REAR
WINDOW
DEFOGGER SWITCH
Fig. 4-Body Wiring Diagram-Charger
11-18BK
C12-20W-RESISTANCE CABLE
REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER MOTOR WIRING REAR WINDOW DEFOGGER
MOTOR
Mll-18BK RIGHT TAIL, STOP AND
TURN SIGNAL
LAMP
FRONT
DOOR JAMB
SWITCH
TO
FOLDING TOP T 2 - 1 2 B R w T 2 - 1 2 R
WIRING ON
INSTRUMENT PANEL
FOLDING TOP MOTOR
WIRING -CONVERTIBLE
DOWN
TO
TRUNK L P
SWITCH
L 7 - 1 8 8 K a LICENSE LAMP
LEFT BACK-UP LAMP
TO
INSTRUMENT
PANEL
WIRING
M2-18Y- TO LEFT FRONT DOOR JAMB SWITCH
TO FADER
WIRING
R-F24-18BR-
TO REAR
INSTRUMENT F25-18BR- SPEAKER
PANEL REAR SEAT SPEAKER
WIRING (SERVICE ONLY)
Fig. 5-Body Wiring Diagram-Dart
MyMopar.com
0
TO GEAR SHIFT
SELECTOR LAMP
(AUTOMATIC e ; : ; : : d ~ a
:
TRANSMISSION
ONLY)
G D
I
A G 1111 S-E L E CTR
I
AL
8-99
a
E2-18-0-A
X2 -18BK m
TO CONSOLE WIRING
ON INSTRUMENT PANEL
GROUND
TO
SIDE
COWL
CONSOLE WIRING WITH TACHOMETER
X2-18BK
@a
GROUND E2-18-0
TO GEAR SHIFT
SELECTOR LAMP
- - -
CONSOLE WIRING AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION WITHOUT TACHOMETER
TO CONSOLE WIRING
ON INSTRUMENT PANEL i 9
RIGHT PARK 18BK
AND TURN
Fig. 6-Console Wiring Diagram-Dart
RIGHT FRONT FENDER
TURN INDICATOR P
P
D ~ A
L
18BK/T*
L6-18BKIY'
LEGEND
FEMALE
INSULATORS VIEWED
FROM TERMINAL SIDE
NU184
BULKHEAD DISCONNECT
LEFT
HEADLAMP
GROUND
LEFT PARK
AND TURN
SIGNAL LAMP
I
L9A
I '?"'
LEFT FRONT FENDER
I I "
L i
MyMopar.com
Fig. 7 4 r o n t End Lighting Wiring Diagram-Dart
SIGNAL LAMP
Fig. &Front End lighting Wiring Diagram-Coronet
RIGHT HOOD
D6A-l8BK/LGN*
NR113A
Fig. O-Front End lighting Wiring Diagram-Charger
NR116A
MyMopar.com
0
3
I
WIRING DIAGRAMS-ELECTRICAL
8-101
I I
I
1;g
! t
jb
J h 13
,
I
,
MyMopar.com
I
8-102
ELECTRICAL-WIRI
N
G DIAGRAMS
- / -
CIGAR LIGHTER
@x1-16R
WINDSHIELD WIPER
SWITCH
HEATER BLOWER MOTOR SWITCH
1
9
(VARIABLE SPEED SWITCH SHOWN) I
C5-16DGN s 4 7 K a
C4-16BR
COLUMN
SUPPORT BRACKET
STEERING
COLUMN
-H5-18BK-
HORN GROUND CABLE 4
RIGHT TURN SIGNAL LAMP
INSTRUMENT LAMP
HIGH BEAM
INDICATOR LAMP
DPA-18T 4
IGNITION SWITCH
0
W I I I I I
I I I I I
I
I
R6-l2BK
M2A-18Y
L6-18Y
*-
-
G2-18V
-
*-
HEATER BLOWER
MyMopar.com
0
-
P5-18BK
-
P4-18DBL*
-Ql-l2R*
I ,
8-103
12
WIRING DIAGRAMS-ELECTRICAL
TEMPERATURE GAUGE (SENDER)- G2-18V
FUEL GAUGE (SENDER)
VOLT LIMITER
8>qsi,
G 4 - 1 8 D B J
LEFT TURN SIGNAL LAMP4FEED)-DlOA-l8LGN
INSTRUMENT LAMP
INSTRUMENT LAMP
(3
LEFT TURN SIGNAL LAMP
GROUND mh::
VOLTAGE LIMITER FUEL --I
GAUGE
P5-188K
D32-18R
-
DPA-18T
I
I
ACCESSORY CIRCUIT
BREAKER AND TOP LIFT
SWITCH
D9-181
I 1
I I
EMERGENCY FLASHER
SWITCH
1 1 I I
I 1 I I
I I I 1
I
BUZZER RELAY WIRING
I
ORN- H2-16DGN/
BODY WIRING
-
8V
*
Fig. I I-lnstrument Panel Wiring Diagram-Dart
NR154A
MyMopar.com
t
0
w
CENTER SPEAKER
8-104
ELECTRICAL-WI RI
N
G DIAGRAMS
=
RIGHT SPEAKER
18BK
TO AIR CONDITIONER
AND HEATER
BLOWER MOTOR -
ENGINE COMPARTMENT
BULKHEAD DISCONNECT
I l B B
X5oB-18BK
K
IL
M
J
I1 I
I I I I I
E2B-18 0
'
11 1-1 BGY'
!
MS-18P
I
C4-I 4BR
C4*-16BR.-d C1 148K p------------C1-148Ko
-C2-l8DBL
C2A-18DBL
C1 A-1 BLGN
I 1
X5OE-1881:
T I 1-1 8GY*
E2E.18 0
CbA-16LGN
QA.141
M5.1 8P
€2). .18 0
-RIGHT
-LEFT
-GROUND
SPEAKER-X58-18DGN0
SPEAKER-1
-CHANNEL -
-CENTER
B
SPEAKER--59-1
X50-1BBK
X52-18DGN
X51-18'4
BLGN
TO BODY
WIRING - 7 M 2 A - 1 8 Y
SPEED CONTROL SERVO
DASH LINE
'4.
SPEED CONTROL
BRAKE SWITCH c
MyMopar.com
0
X5OG18BK
X57-18LGN'
WIRING DIAGRAMS-ELECTRICAL
8-105
LEFT SPEAKER
1 BDGN 18BK k M 2 A - 1 8 Y e I M 2 E - l B Y
TO INSTRUMENT PANEL
MAIN HARNESS
TACHOMETER
X57-1 BLGN.
LM2c-lByEeq
MAP LAMP SWITCH r
AIR CONDITIONER AND
HEATER BLOWER SWITCH
16-LGN L
E2E-18 0
TO RIGHT
DOOR
SWITCH
11 1.18GY
E2E-18 0
C6A-16LGN
E2B-18 oa
ASH RECEIVER
LAMP
E2B-18 0
TO AIR CONDITIONER
AND HEATER
VACUUM SWITCH
E2A.
AIR CONDITIONER
AND HEATER
LAMP AND
SOCKET
C4A-168R
TURN SIGNAL LEVER
AND SPEED CONTROL
LEVER
II
-L6-18BKa
FEED (MAIN ASSEMBLY)
TOP LIFT SWITCH
13-12Y
-
12-12BR-
18DGN
W2A-121
W28.12R
W9- 1 81-
CROSSOVER
TlA-12R
Q4A-lBBK'
DGN
---- t
M2-18Y
-
BREAKER
LAMP ON
REMINDER
BUZZER e-.
M2-18Y
- Q4A-18BKo
- 1 6 - l B B f i
* M 2 C - l 8 Y @ -
XS1 6-1 8V REAR SPEAKER
--.
--.
W9-181
. . - .
€2-18 0
B
I2-lnr)rument P a n d A c c . u o y Wiring Diagram-Coronet
WIRING
-M2C-l8Y
E2-1808
C10-1 BLGN
REAR WINDOW
DEFOGGER
SWITCH c12-18W TO REAR WINDOW
DEFOGGER
WIRING (BODY) f 19.
NU248
MyMopar.com
8-1 06 E
LECTR ICAL-WI R
I N G
DIAGRAMS
61-18W
3
E2D-18 0 r X 1 - 1 6 R - CIGAR LIGHTER
--
-
--
0
I v - -
INSTRUMENT
LAMP INSTRUMENT
LAMP
RIGHT TURN SIGNAL LAMP
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
HEATER BLOWER MOTOR SWITCH
16DGN
OIL WARNING
LAMP
--- c---
16R
STARTER AND IGNITION SWITCH -2
16R-LOW- c
16DGN-MEDIUM.
16LGN
- -
RESISTANCE CABLE CIRCUIT
V7-24BR0(NOT REQUIRED FOR
SPEED WIPER MOTOR)
WINDSHIELD
TO
BLOWER
MOTOR
EMERGENCY
FLASHER
D32-18R.
, D31-181
Q D 3 - 1 8 P
ASH RECEIVER
LAMP (FEED)
I
E2C
18 0
-
TO RIGHT
DOOR SWITCH
\FOR A JR CONDITIONER
CLOCK LAMP,
TACHOMETER LAMP AND ASH
RECEIVER LAMP WIRING
I
I -z;;L%t*
P5A-18BK
L
I
I
1
13-1 6R
14-1 6V'
D3-18P-
MyMopar.com
0
~
- -
FUEL SENDER (FEED)-
INSTRUMENT LAMPS- (FEED) -E2A-18 0
RIGHT TURN SIGNAL LAMP -(FEED)
E G4-18DBL
LEFT TURN SIGNAL LAMP- (FEED) -DlOA-l8LGN
HIGH BEAM L A M P - ( F E E D ) - L ~ - ~ ~ R
OIL WARNING (SENDER)-
-
--
--
TO LAMP O N REMINDER BUZZER
SEE ACCESSORY WIRING DIAGRAM
WI R
I
N G
DI
AG RAMS-ELECTRICAL
8-1
07
HIGH BEAM LAMP
WARNING LAMP
[~,t+18y*
INSTRUMENT LAMP
VOLTAGE LIMITER
INSTRUMENT FEED
4
LAMP
BODY)
Fig. 13-Instrument Panel Wiring Diagram-Coronet
MyMopar.com
8-108
ELECTRICAL-WIRING DIAGRAMS
CX.180-
18 0 u-
0
NR204A
-X12-18R*- ll11111
--
RESISTANCE CABLE V7-24BR'
NOT REQUIRED FOR 2 SPEED
L
- -
E2E-18 0
1
HEATER BLOWER
MOTOR RESISTOR
61-18W
E2F-
1 8 0
I -h
&&%
I I I
STARTER AND
IGNITION SWITCH
1 1 lA-Jd
\
J1-12R 6.1
Q2-128K ACC
L o 1
$1
L P 4 - 1 8 D B w
X12-18R'
I
s2-18Y ST
J3-148R
L V 1 - 1 6 P
J1-
1
R6A-128K
12R R6!12BK,
Q3-
14R*
I
X12.1 BR*-
EMERGENCY
M2A r
14BK'
I
RIGHT D O O R
SWITCH a J
I
I I I I I v.7.
I t ?
c D 1 - 1 8 B K
Dl-lOBK
A1-12R
V3-16BR'
* -
I F
I I I I
I t
! I
+ I
TURN SIGNAL FLASHER
02A-14BK
D2-18R
L6A-18y'
18DGN
I
I
1
I I I I I
1 1 , I
I
I t
I
I I I I I
I I
D32-18R-
E2F.18 0-
P5A-18BK-
2A-148K-
3
1
I +
H3-18BK.-
L B 1 - 1 8 w T
I I
V4-18R
-
I I l l I I I I I I I I
82-18W-
D31-18F-
-1 8DBL
I I I
.
E2C-18 0-
-18GY
ASH RECEIVER
LAMP (FEED)
I I I
FOR AIR CONDITIONER
LAMP, CLOCK LAMP,
TACHOMETER LAMP,
AND ASH RECEIVER
LAMP WIRING.
SEE ACCESSORY WIRING
DIAGRAM
0
MyMopar.com
@
INSTRUMENT LAMP
INSTRUMENT LAMP
E2A-18 -
E2C-180
INSTRUMENT
LAMPS
€28.1 8 0
-E2E-180
- -
I 1 r
----_
PANFL
..
.
DIMMER SWITCH
WIRING DIAGRAMS-ELECTRICAL
8-1 09
16-18Y
1
3
I
BRAKE SYSTEM
WARNING LAMP
-- -
I+
REMINDER BUZZER
SEE ACCESSORY
WIRING DIAGRAM
-
81.1 8W*
'D31-18P
-G4-18081
03-18P
BRAKE SWITCH
-
-D8-18DGN
STOP LAMP SWITCH ~ 4 . 1 8 ~
I
I
I
-82-1 8W*
1 rD3-18P
MI-18P i 7 . i ~ ~ ~
D8-1 8DGN
D7-188R
M28-18Y
WIRING (BODY)
INSULATORS VIEWED FROM TERMINAL SIDE
L4-16V'
Pig. 14-Instrument Panel Wirlng Diagram-Charger
VIOLET
WHITE
YELLOW
NR204A
MyMopar.com
8-110
ELECTRICAL-WIRING DIAGRAMS
o L = m
Y m m
$ 3
0
MyMopar.com
0
TO INSTRUMENT
PANEL WIRING
WIRING DIAGRAMS-ELECTRICAL
RIGHT FRONT DOOR
8-1 11
RIGHT FRONT DOOR
WlNMlW LIFT MOTOR
LEFT FRONT DOOR
WINDOW LIFT MOTOR
@
TO LEFT REAR QUARTER
W22-14V
Wl-12T
WE-12BK
W12-14P
A w2-12Y
-
I
-
LIFT MOTOR
I r W 2 - 1 4 Y
J
DOWN mWl4-14GY
N 2 4 - 1 4 D G n
UP-
W24-14DGN n
L
W4-14Y
W24-14DGT-i
Wl4-14GY frzj
RIGHT REAR
QUARTER
WINDOW LIFT
MOTOR
LEGEND
W23-14R
LEFT REAR QUARTE