Kawasaki KZ400, KZ500, KZ550 Service Manual
Kawasaki KZ400 is a versatile motorcycle suitable for both daily commutes and longer journeys. Its powerful engine and reliable performance make it a pleasure to ride, while its sleek design and comfortable ergonomics ensure a comfortable and enjoyable experience. With its advanced features and exceptional build quality, the Kawasaki KZ400 is an excellent choice for riders of all skill levels.
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Kawasaki
Motorcycle
Service Manual
Revised 2: Feb. 17, 1981
@
Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd. 1979, 1980, 1981
Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd. accepts no liability for any inaccuracies or omissions in this publlcation, although every possible care has been taken t o make i t as complete and accurate as possible. All procedures and specifications subject t o change without prior notice, and may not apply to every country.
Foreword
This manual is designed primarily for use by motorcycle mechanics in a properly equipped shop, although it contains enough detail and basic information to make it useful to the motorcycle user who desires to carry out his own basic maintenance and repair work. Since a certain basic knowledge of mechanics, the proper use of tools, and workshop procedures must be understood in order to carry out maintenance and repair satisfactorily; the adjustments, maintenance, and repair should be carried out only by qualified mechanics whenever the owner has insufficient experience, c - has doubts as t o his ability to do the work, so that the motorcycle can be operated safely.
In order to perform the work efficiently and to avoid costly mistakes, the mmhanic should read the text, thoroughly familiarizing himself with the procedures before starting work, and then do the work carefully in a clean area. Whenever special tools or equipment is specified, makeshift tools or equipment shodd not be used. Precision measurements can only be made if the proper instruments are used, and the use of substitute tools may adversely affect safe operation of the motorcycle.
Whenever you see the symbols shown below, heed their instructions! Always follow safe operating and rnaintenance practices.
This warning symbol identifies special instructions or procedures which, i f not correctly
C A U T I O N followed, could result in personal injury, or loss o f life.
This caution symbol identifies special instructions or procedures which, i f not strictly observed, could result in damage to, or destruction o f equipment.
"NOTE" indicates points of particular interest for more efficient and convenient operation.
This manual is divided into the following chapters:
Adjustment
The adjustment chapter gives the procedure for all adjustments which may become necessary periodically and which do not involve major disassembly.
Disassembly
The chapter shows the best method for the removal, disassembly, assembly, and installation which are necessary for maintenance and repair. Do not disassemble parts further than explained in this manual. For spare parts, refer to the Parts Catalog. Since assembly and installation are usually the reverse of disassembly and removal, assembly and installation are not explained in detail in most cases. Instead, assembly notes and installation notes are provided to explain special points.
In cases where removal procedtire is readily apparent, such as for the seat, side stand, etc., no information are given in this chapter.
Maintenance and Theory of Operation
The procedures for inspection and repair are described in detail in this chapter. An explanation on the structure and functioning of each of the major parts and assemblies is given to enable the mechanic to better understand what he is doing.
Appendix
The appendix in the back of this manual contains miscellaneous information, including a special tool list and wiring diagram.
Supplement
The maintenance and repair procedures, that are unique t o later year units since the first publi- cation of the Service Manual, are explained in this chapter per one year unit.
Since this Service Manual i s based on the first production units of the KZ500-B1, there may be minor discrepancies between some vehicles and the illustrations and text in this manual. Major changes and additions pertaining t o later year units will be explained in a supplement following the appendix or by a new edition.
QUICK
REFERENCE GUIDE
To use, bend the manual back and match the desired section below against the black spot showing at the edge of these pages.
Specifications
1
Adiustment
1
Introduction
Disassembly
I
Chassis
Engine
Maintenance
&
Theory
r
Chassis
Electrical
Troubleshooting
Appendix
-
Supplement
Index
4 MODEL IDENTIFICATION
Model ldentif ication
KZ500-B1 Left Side View
KZ500-B1 Right Side View
SPECIFICATIONS
5
Specifications
Table
of Contents
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
ENGINE PERFORMANCE CURVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
RUNNING PERFORMANCE CURVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
6 SPECIFICATIONS
SPEC1 FICATIONS
Dimensions
Overall length
Overall width
Overall height
Wheel base
Road clearance
Dry weight
Fuel tank capacity
Performance
Climbing ability
Braking Distance
Minimum turning radius
Engine
TY pe
Bore and stroke
Displacement
Compression ratio
Maximum horsepower
Maximum torque
Valve timing
Inlet Open
Close
Exhaust
Duration
Open
Close
Duration
Carburetors
Lubrication system
Engine oil TY pe
Capacity
Starting system
Ignition system
Cylinder numbering method
Firing order
Ignition timing
Spark plugs
Transmission
TY pe
Clutch
Gear ratio: 1 s t
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
6th
DOHC, 4-cylinder, 4-stroke, air-cooled
55.0 x 52.4 mm
497 cc
9.5
52 HP (99,000 rpm
4.5 kg-m @7,500 rpm
20" BTDC
48" ABDC
248"
48" BBDC
20" ATDC
248"
TK K22P-2A
Forced Lubrication (wet sump)
SE class SAE 10W40, 10W50, 20W40, or 20W50
3.0 a
Electric starter
Battery and coil
Left to right 1-2-3-4
1-2-4-3
From 10" BTDC (91,050 rpm to 35" BTDC (93,200 rpm
NGK D8EA or ND X24ES-U
6-speed, constant mesh, return shift
Wet rnulti disc
2.57 (36114)
1.78 ( W l 8 )
1.13 (27124)
0.96 (25126)
0.85 (23127)
Primary reduction ratio
Final reduction ratio
Overall drive ratio
Electrical Equipment
Alternator
Regulator/Rectifier
Ignition coils
Battery
Starter Motor
Headlight TY pe
Bulb
TailIBrake light
City light
Turn signal lights
Meter lights
Indicator lights
Horn
Frame
TY pe
Steering angle
Castor
Trail
Tire size
Suspension
Suspension stroke
Front fork oil
Front
Rear
Front
Rear
Front
Rear
TY pe
Capacity (each fork)
Oil level
KZ500-61
2.94 (27123 x
2.50 (40116)
65/26)
6.25 (Top gear)
Nippon Denso 037000-1400
Mitsubishi TSIOBRI K - L
Toyo Denso ZC004-12V
Furukawa FB12A-A (12V 12AH)
Mitsuba SM-227K
Semi-sealed
1 2 v 45/40w
12V 5/21 W
1 2 v 4W
12V21W
1 2 v 3.4W
1 2 v 3.4W
12V 2.5A
@ @l
@ 0
@ @ 1 2 V 2 3 W
Tubular, double cradle
37" t o either side
26"
98 mm
3.25H-19 4PR
3.75H-18 4PR
Telescopic fork
Swing arm
180 mm
100 mm
SAE 5W20
220 cc
505 mm (From top of inner tube with spring removed)
Brakes
TY pe Front
Rear
Effective disc diameter Front
Rear
Dual disc brakes
Disc brake
232 mm
237 mm
@ : European model @ : Australian model
Specifications subject t o change without notice, and may not apply t o every country.
8 SPECIFICATIONS
E N G I N E PERFORMANCE C U R V E S
Crankshaft rprn
RUNNING PERFORMANCE CURVES
SPECIFICATIONS 9
I:'
1
4 0
I
80
I
120
Vehicle Speed k p h
I
160 201
ADJUSTMENT.. ENGINE
11
Adjustment-Engine
Table
of
Contents
SPARK PLUGS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12
IGNITION TIMING
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12
Point Gap Adjustment (using a thickness gauge)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
13
Point Gap Adjustment (using a dwell angle tester)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
13
Timing Test (Static)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
13
Timing Test (Dynamic)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
14
VALVE CLEARANCE
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
15
THROTTLE CABLES
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
18
CARBURETORS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Initial Synchronization-Mechanical
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
19
19
Idling Adjustment
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
21
Fine Synchronization
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
21
CLUTCH
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
22
ENGINE OIL
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
24
Oil Level Inspection
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
24
Oil and Oil Filter Change
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
24
FUEL SYSTEM
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
24
12
ADJUSTMENT-ENGINE
SPARK PLUGS
Neglecting the spark plug eventually leads to difficult starting and poor performance. I f the spark plug i s used for a long period, the electrodes gradually burn away and carbon builds up along the insulator. In accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart (Pg. l o ) , the plug should be removed for inspection, cleaning and to reset the gap.
@Remove the spark plugs using a spark plug wrench.
@Clean the spark plug preferably in a sand-blasting device, and then clean o f f any abrasive particles. The plug may also be cleaned using a high flash-point solvent and a wire brush or other suitable tool. I f the spark plug electrodes are corroded or damaged, or if the insulator i s cracked, replace the plug. Use the standard plug or its equivalent.
@Measure the gap with a wire-type thickness gauge. I f the gap is incorrect, carefully bend the outer electrode, with a suitable tool to obtain the correct gap.
Spark Plug Gap m
Correct ignition timing i s achieved by first obtaining the correct contact breaker point gaps (this can also be achieved by adjusting the dwell angles to the specified amount) and then changing the position o f the mounting plate. Setting the points often returns the timing very close to the correct original setting. Once the timing has been adjusted, i t may be checked for accuracy by the use o f a strobe light.
There are two sets o f contact breaker points, the left set marked " L " fires spark plugs 1 and 4 simultaneously, and the right set marked " R " fires plugs 2 and 3 180' later. The gap for each set o f points must be adjusted separately.
NOTE: Spark plugs and cylinders are numbered consecutively, starting from the left.
Table B1 Spark Plug
I
Type
I
NGK D ~ E A . ~
Tightening
Toraue
1.4 kg-m (1 0.0 ft-lbs)
2
@Tighten the spark plugs in the cylinder head to kg-m (1 0.0 ft-lbs).
1.4
A. "L" contact breaker B. "R" contact breaker m
There are two sets o f timing marks on the timing advancer, which can be viewed through the inspection window by turning the crankshaft. One set i s marked
"1 4 " and the other one i s marked "2 3". The " F " mark o f each set i s for checking the timing before advancing, and the "advanced timing marks" (a pair o f lines) are for checking the timing i t has advanced.
Timing Advancer m
R
IGNITION TIMING
Incorrect ignition timing can cause poor performance, knocking, overheating, and serious engine damage. Peri- odic adjustment will be necessary t o compensate for wear o f parts, and the ignition timing must be check whenever ignition related parts have been disassembled or replaced.
1. #1, 4 Cylinder Advanced Timing Marks
2. #1, 4 Cylinder Timing Mark
3. #I, 4 Cylinder TDC Mark
4. #2, 3 Cylinder TDC Mark
5. #2, 3 Cylinder Timing Mark
6. #2, 3 Cylinder Advanced Timing Marks
Point Gap Adjustment (using a thickness gauge):
.Remove the contact breaker cover and gasket.
.Clean the points with a piece o f clean paper or cloth, using an oil-free solvent. A business card soaked in trichloroethylene can be used to remove traces o f oil.
T o repair light damage, use emery cloth or an oilstone.
I f the points are badly worn down or damaged, or i f the spring i s weak, replace the contact breaker.
.Lubricate the point cam felt sparingly with suitable point cam lubricant. Do not overlubricate. Replace the felt i f i t i s worn.
.Using a 17 mm wrench on the crankshaft, turn the engine clockwise until the contact breaker points are at their widest opening.
.Measure the size o f the point gap with a thickness gauge. The proper gap i s 0.3
-
0.4 mm.
ADJUSTMENT-ENGINE 13
To repair light damage use emery cloth or a point file.
I f the points are badly worn down or damaged, or i f the spring i s weak, replace the contact breaker.
.Lubricate the point cam felt sparingly with a suit- able point cam lubricant. Do not overlubricate. Re- place the felt i f it i s worn.
C o n n e c t the dwell angle tester (-) lead t o chassis ground (such as the frame or crankcase) and the (+) lead to the contact breaker terminal or spring leaf.
A. Contact Breaker Points
B. Base Screws
C. Thickness Gauge
D. Pry Points
.If the gap i s incorrect, loosen the contact breaker base screws (2) just enough to allow the base to move.
Open the points using a slot screwdriver on the contact breaker base pry point, and insert a blade thickness of
0.35 mm between the points. Tighten the contact breaker base screws (2), and remove the blade. Again turn the crankshaft, and recheck the point gap.
*Repeat the steps above for the other set o f points.
.Perform the timing test.
Point Gap Adjustment
(using a dwell angle tester):
The most precise means to set the point gap is to use a dwell angle tester instead o f a thickness gauge. I f a dwell angle tester is available, adjust the dwell angle
(point gap) in the following manner.
NOTE: The dwell angle is the angular range for which current to flow in thk ignition coil primary winding.
Make sure that no tools, clothes, or meter
LWAANING) leads touch the spinning crankshaft.
Touching the crankshaft of a running engine could inflict an injury.
-
.Clean the points with a piece o f clean paper or cloth, using an oil-free solvent. A business card soaked in trichloroethylene can be used to remove traces o f oil.
A. Contact Breaker Spring
B. Dwell Angle Tester
C. Tester
D. Tester
(+I
Lead
(-1 Lead
.If the dwell angle tester i s calibrated in degrees, turn the selector knob to the lowest cam lobe setting.
*Start the engine, and let i t idle (below 1,400 rpm)
.Note the reading on the tester. The dwell angle speci- fication i s shown in Table 82. I f the tester setting i s for more than one cam lobe, the reading on the tester must be multiplied by the cam lobe number t o obtain the true dwell angle.
Table B2 Dwell Angle
1
Selector Knob Setting
1
Dwell Angle Tester Reading
I
1 Cylinder 185.0-200.0" (51 .O-56.0%)
2 Cy l i nders 92.5-1 00.0" (25.5 -28.0%)
3 Cylinders 61.5-67.0" (1 7.0-1 9.0%)
1
4 Cylinders
1
46.0-50.0" (1 2.5-14.0%)
1
.If the dwell angle i s not the same as the specification, loosen the contact breaker base screws (2) just enough so that a slot screwdriver at the contact breaker pry point will be able to change the gap (Fig. 84). Adjust the gap until the dwell angle specification i s obtained.
Tighten the screws (2).
.Repeat the steps above for the other set o f points.
.Stop the engine, and disconnect the tester.
.Perform the timing test.
Timing Test (Static):
Check and adjust the static ignition timing using each " F " mark, first for #1 and #I cylinders and then
#2 and #3 cylinders.
.Turn the ignition switch and engine stop switch off.
*Check the point gap, and adjust i f necessary.
14
ADJUSTMENT-ENGINE
@Turn the crankshaft so that the "1 4" F mark on the timing advancer i s aligned with the timing mark as shown.
A. Timing Mark B. "1 4" F Mark
@Set an ohmmeter to the x 1 L! range and connect it across the left set of points, one lead t o the wire coming from the points (or t o the spring leaf), and the other ohmmeter lead t o chassis ground (engine, frame, contact breaker mounting, etc.). Make sure that both leads are securely connected.
@The circuit tester needle should flicker when the "F" mark and timing mark are aligned, indicating that the points have just opened. When using an audible timing tester, there should be a change i n tone o f the tester at this point.
@ I f the timing i s not correct, loosen the mounting screws
(3), and use a slot screwdriver on the pry points to adjust the mounting plate. Tighten the mounting screws securely and check the timing.
A. Right Contact Breaker B. Base Screws
@ I f the correct ignition timing for #2 and #3 cylinders cannot be obtained by adjusting the right contact breaker point gap, adjust the right contact breaker point gap to 0.35 mm, and adjust the ignition timing for #2 and #3 cylinders by shifting the mounting plate position.
@Recheck the left contact breaker point gap and the ignition timing for #1 and #4 cylinders. Readjust i f necessary.
@If these adjustments resulted in failure, the contact breakers have worn out, and both must be replaced with new ones.
@Disconnect the tester leads and install the contact breaker cover and gasket.
Timing
Test
(Dynamic):
@Check the point gap, and adjust i f necessary.
@Connect the strobe light lead to #1 or #4 spark plug lead in order to check the ignition timing for #1 and
#4 cylinders under operating conditions. One example of the wiring i s shown below.
Dynamic Ignition Timing Test
A. Mounting Plate
B. Mounting Screws
C. Pry Points
@Move the tester leads to the right set o f points to check the ignition timing for #2 and #3 cylinders.
@Turn the crankshaft clockwise a half turn so that the
"2 3" F mark on the timing advancer i s aligned with the timing mark.
@ I f the circuit tester needle does n o t flicker when the
"F" mark and timing mark are aligned, loosen base screws (2) on the right contact breaker and adjust the point gap to within its specification (0.3-0.4 mm) until the correct ignition timing i s obtained.
1. Ignition Coil
2. Spark Plug Lead
3. Strobe Light
.Turn on the ignition switch and engine stop switch.
Start the engine and warm i t up thoroughly. Then, direct the strobe light at the timing mark.
.At idle, the "1 4" F mark must be aligned with the timing mark for correct low rpm ignition timing. If the timing is not correct, adjust i t by moving the mounting plate.
ADJUSTMENT-ENGINE
15
.Disconnect the strobe light.
.Install the contact breaker cover and gasket.
A. Timing Mark B. "1 4" F Mark
.At 3,400 rpm or higher, the advanced timing marks
(a pair of lines) must be aligned with the timing mark for correct high rpm ignition timing. I f the timing is not correct, examine the timing advancer mechanism for binding.
VALVE CLEARANCE
Valve and valve seat wear decreases valve clearance, upsetting valve timing. I f valve clearance is left unadjust- ed, the wear will eventually cause the valves to remain partly open, which lowers performance, burns the valves and valve seats, and may cause serious engine damage.
Valve clearance for each valve should be checked and, i f incorrect, adjusted in accordance with the Periodic
Maintenance Chart (Pg. 10) and any time that clearance may have been affected by disassembly.
When carrying out adjustment, be careful to adjust within the specified clearance. Adjusting to a larger value will both disturb valve timing and cause engine noise.
NOTE: Valve clearance must be checked when the engine is cold.
To check the valve clearance:
.Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
.Remove the ignition coils (Pg. 57).
.Remove the cylinder head cover bolts (24), and remove the cylinder head cover.
.Remove the contact breaker cover.
.Using a 17 mm wrench on the crankshaft, turn the crankshaft so that the "1 4" T mark on the timing advancer is aligned with the timing mark.
A. Timing Mark B. Advanced Timing Marks
A. "1 4" T Mark B. Timing Mark
Table B3 Timing Advancing
.For two inlet valves ( # I and #3, or #2 and #4) at a time, measure the clearance between the cam and the valve lifter.
.Next, move the strobe light lead to #2 or #3 spark plug lead, and check the ignition timing for #2 and
#3 cylinders using the "2 3" F mark. Adjust the contact breaker point gap on the right, i f necessary.
Table B4 Valve Clearance
1
Inlet
/
0.10-0.20 mm
1
Exhaust
/
0.15-0.25 mm
1
I
Table B5 Inlet Valve Clearance Adjustment Chart
P A R T
NUMBER IgZOZ5- 1
THICKNESS
I m m )
1090 1091 1092 1093 1094
PRESENT S H I M
1095 1096 1097 1098 1099 1100 1101 1102 1103 1104 1105 1106 1107 1108 1109 I110 1 1 1 1
200 2.05 210 2.15 220 2.25 2.30 2.35 2.40 2.45 2.50 2.55 2.60 2.65 2.70 2.75 2.80 2.85 2.90 2.95 300 3.05
3 1 0
1 1 1 3
3.20
2.00 2 2.10 2.15 2.20 2.25 2.30 2 2.40 2 2.50 2 2.60 2 2 2.75 2 2.85 90 2 00 3.05
2.00 2.05 210 2.15 220 2.25 230 2.35 240 2.45 250 2.55 2.60 265 270 275 2.80 2.85 290 295 300 3.05 3.10
,/2.00 2.05 210 215 2.20 2.25 2.30 2.35 240 245 250 2.55 2.60 2.65 270 275 2.80 2.85 2.90 2.95 300 305 310 3.15
SPECIFIED C L E A R A N C E / N O CHANGE R E Q U I R E D
2 2.10 2.15 2.20 2 2.30 2 2.40 2.45 2.50 2.55 2 2.65 2 2 2.80 2 95 3 3 3 10 3 15 3
2 2 2 2 2.30 2.35 2 2 2.50 2.55 2 65 2 2 2 85 2 2 3 05 3 10 3 15 3
215 2.20 2.25 2.30 235 2.40 2.45 2.50 2.55 2.60 265 270 2.75 2.80 2.85 2.90 2.95 300 3.05 310 315 320
1 . Align the timing advancer "T" mark with the crankcase tlming mark, and measure the clearance (when cold).
2. Check present shim size.
3. Match clearance in vertical column wlth
4. T h e shlm specified where the lines intersect is the one that will give you the proper clearance.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Table B6 Exhaust Valve Clearance Adjustment Chart
PARTNUMBER(92025 1
THICKNESS lmml
1090 1091 1092 1093
2.15
1094
2.20
1095
2.25
1096
2.30
1097 1098
2.35 2.40
PRESENT S H I M
1100 1101 1102 1103 1104 1099
2.45 2.50 2.55 2 6 0 2.65 2.70 2.75 2.80 2.85
1108
2.90
1109 1110
2.95 3.00
1111
3.05
1112
3.10
1113
3.15
1114
3 2 0
2.00
2.00
2.05
2.00
2.05
2.10
2.00
2.05
2.10
2 1 5
2.05
2.10
2.15
2.20
2 1 0
2.15
2.20
2.15
2.20
2.25
2.20
2.25
2.30
2.25
2.30
2.35
2.30
2.35
2.40
2.35
2.40
2.45
2.40
2.45
2.50
2.45
2.50
2.55
2.50
2.55
2.60
2 5 5
2.60
2.65
2.60
2 6 5
2.70
2.65
2.70
2 7 5
2.70
2 7 5
2.80
2.25 2.30 2.35 2 4 0 2 4 5 2.50 2 5 5 2.60 2.65 2.70 2 7 5 2 8 0
SPECIFIED C L E A R A N C E / N O C H A N G E R E Q U I R E D
2.85
2 7 5 2.80
2 8 0
2.85
2.90
2.85
2.90
2 9 5
2 8 5 2.90
2 9 0
2 9 5
3.00
2 9 5
3 0 0
3.05
2.95
3 0 0
3 0 5
3 1 0
3.00
3.05
3 1 0
3 1 5
1. Align the timing advancer "T" mark with the crankcase timing mark, and measure the clearance (when cold).
2. Check present shim size.
3. Match clearance i n vertical column with present shim size i n horizontal column.
4. The shim specified where the lines intersect is the one that will give you the proper clearance.
NOTE: I f there is no clearance between the shim and the cam, select a shim which is several sizes smaller and then measure the clearance. a under the shim. This may cause the shim t o pop out at high rpm causing extensive engine damage.
3. Check the valve clearance with the proper method In the text. Checking the clearance at any other cam posltlon may result In improper valve clearance.
18
ADJUSTMENT-ENGINE
2. Do not grind the shim. This may cause it to fracture, causing extensive engine damage.
NOTE: I f the smallest shim does not sufficiently in- crease clearance, the valve seat i s probably worn. I n this case, repair the valve seat (Pg. 168), and check the valve stem installed height (Pg. 170).
*Install the camshaft (Pg. 58), remeasure the valve clearance that was adjusted, and readjust i f necessary.
A. Inlet Camshaft B. Thickness Gauge
*Turn the crankshaft a half turn until the " 2 3" T mark i s aligned with the timing mark, and measure the clearance o f two exhaust valves (#1 and #3, or #2 and #4).
*Turning the crankshaft another a half turn and then another a half turn to measure the valve clearance.
* I f the valve clearance is incorrect, continue the follow- ing procedures to replace the present shim with a new shim, which will give the proper clearance.
*Before installing the cylinder head cover, remove the camshaft chain tensioner cap and push rod stop. Install them after the cover installation referring the camshaft installation section (Pg. 60).
NOTE: I f there i s no clearance between the valve lifter and cam, select, a shim which i s several sizes smaller and then remeasure the clearance once it i s installed.
To adjust the valve clearance:
*Remove the camshaft (Pg. 57).
*Being careful not to damage the valve lifter, pull off the valve lifter with a suitable tool.
THROTTLE CABLES
There are two throttle cables, the accelerator cable for opening the throttle valves and decelerator cable for closing them. I f the cables are too loose from either cable stretch or maladjustment, the excessive play in the throttle grip will cause a delay in throttle response, especially at low rpm. Also, the throttle valves may not open fully at full throttle. On the other hand, i f the cables are too tight, the throttle will be hard to control, and the idling speed will be erratic.
To check the throttle cable adjustment:
*Check that there is 2-3 mm throttle grip play.
A. Throttle Grip B. 2-3 mm play
*Push the throttle grip completely closed. A t this time there should be 2 - 3 mm clearance between the cable catch and pulley.
A. Valve Lifter B. Shim
*Check the present shim thickness (shim size) which is printed on the shim surface, and referring t o the Valve
Adjustment Charts (Pgs. 16, 17), select a new shim which brings valve clearance within the specified limits.
Shims are available in sizes from 2.0
-
3.2 mm, in increments o f 0.05 mm.
.Insert the new shim on the valve spring retainer.
1. Do not put shim stock under the shim. This may cause the shim to pop out at high rpm, causing extensive engine damage.
A. Cable Catch
B. Decelerator Cable Tip
C. Pulley
D. 2 - 3 mm
To adjust the throttle cables:
I f any one o f the above checks shows to be maladjust- ed, adjust the throttle cable as follows:
@Loosen the locknuts, and screw both throttle cable adjusting nuts in completely at the upper end of the throttle cables so as to give the throttle grip plenty o f play.
@Turn out the decelerator cable adjusting nut until there i s 2
-
3 mm clearance between the cable catch and pulley when the throttle grip i s completely closed. Tighten the locknut.
ADJUSTMENT-ENGINE
19 throttle cables, use the cable adjuster at the lower end o f the throttle cables. Do not forget to securely tighten the adjuster mounting nuts.
I f grip play is adjusted too large, the throttle valves may not open fully at full throttle. To check this, check to see that the pulley stop screw fits against the flange on the bracket when the throttle grip i s fully opened.
A. Stop Screw B. Flange
A. Decelerator Cable
B. Adjusting Nut
C. Locknut
@Turn the accelerator cable adjusting nut until 2 - 3 mm of throttle grip play i s obtained. Tighten the locknut.
CARBURETORS
For internal carburetor maintenance and replace- ment o f parts, see the maintenance section (Pg. 156) o f this manual. The following procedure covers the idling adjustment, which should be inspect during periodic maintenance or whenever the idling setting has been disturbed. This procedure also includes the necessary steps for obtaining proper carburetor synchronization.
When the idle speed i s too low, the engine may stall; when the idle speed is too high, the fuel consumption becomes excessive, and the resulting lack o f engine braking may make the motorcycle difficult to control.
Poor carburetor synchronization will cause unstable idling, sluggish throttle response, and reduced engine power and performance.
The following procedure consists o f three parts: initial synhcronization-mechanical (sometimes neces- sary), idling adjustment, and carburetor synchronization.
A. Accelerator Cable Elbow
B. Adjusting Nut
C. Locknut
D. 2-3 mm Play
NOTES: 1. I f the throttle cables cannot be adjusted by using the cable adjusting nuts at the upper end of the
Initial Synchronization-Mechanical
I f the engine idling is especially rough, it may be necessary to synchronize the throttle valves before making the idling adjustment:
@Remove the carburetors from the engine (Pg. 49).
@Synchronize the throttle valves using the following procedure.
20
ADJUSTMENT-ENGINE
.Back out the idle adjusting screw a couple of turns.
Turn the adjusting screw until there i s no clearance between the screw and pulley, and then continue for another 1/4 turn from that point.
Throttle Valve Clearance
A. Idle Adjusting Screw B. Pulley
.Remove the top covers adjusting screw locknut.
(4), and loosen the throttle
Bottom o f Carburetor Bore
.Tighten the locknuts without changing the position of the screws. Install the top covers.
.Open the throttle so that the bottom edge of the lowest o f the four carburetor throttle valves i s even with the top o f the carburetor bore. Loosen the lock- nut and turn the pulley stop screw so the throttle valve i s stopped at that point, and then tighten the locknut.
Throttle Valve Position at Fully Throttle m
A. Throttle Adjusting Screw B. Locknut
?k
.Turn the adjusting screw to make a slight clearance between the throttle valve and the bottom o f the carburetor bore. Turn each adjusting screw until the four clearances are the same. This i s a very fine adjustment, so make i t carefully.
NOTE: An easy method o f performing this adjustment i s t o carefully insert a piece o f 0.5 -1.0 m m solid wire in the space between the bottom o f the carburetor bore and the throttle valve, lifting the valve and slowly letting i t seat on the wire. Then, with the carburetor throat facing downward, slowly turn the adjusting screw out until the wires fall out. Repeat the procedure above for each carburetor.
Pulley Stop Screw
Locknut
Fast ldle Arm
4. Flange
5. Throttle Valve
ADJUSTMENT-ENGINE 21
(2)ldle mixture adjustment
.For all carburetors, turn in the pilot air screw o f each carburetor until i t seats lightly, and then back i t out
1 'Is
A. Pulley Stop Screw
B. Locknut
C. Carburetor Bore
.Install the carburetors (Pg. 50), and adjust the play in the throttle cables (Pg. 18).
A. Pilot Air Screws
Idling Adjustment:
(1) Idle speed adiustment
.Start the engine, and warm i t up thoroughly.
.Adjust idle speed to 1,000- idle adjusting screw.
*Perform the idle speed adjustment.
NOTE: I f proper idle speed cannot be obtained by this adjustment above, first check the following and correct as necessary.
Engine Oil
Spark Plugs
Ignition Timing
Throttle Cables
Cylinder Compression
Air Cleaner Element
Air Cleaner Duct and Carburetor Holder Leakage
Camshaft Chain
Valve Clearance
A. Idle Adjusting Screw
.Open and close the throttle a few times to make sure that the idle speed does not change. Readjust i f necessary.
NOTE: With the engine idling, turn the handlebar to either side. I f handlebar movement changes idle speed, the throttle cables may be improperly adjusted or in- correctly routed, or they may be damaged.
Operation with improperly adjusted, in- correctly routed, or damaged cables could result in an unsafe riding condition.
Fine Synchronization-Vacuum:
Fine adjustment of carburetor synchronization, necessary for smooth engine operation, requires the use of vacuum gauges. A difference between left t w o cylinders and right two cylinders might be found from exhaust noise and exhaust pressure; but to synchronize each carburetor, using vacuum gauges is essential.
NOTE: During carburetor synchronization, the fuel tank will be removed. In most cases, i t will be necessary to temporarily replace the standard fuel lines with lines long enough to reach the fuel tank while i t is located on your workbench.
Use extreme caution when working with gasoline, open fuel lines, etc. to avoid a fire or explosion.
.Start the engine, and warm i t up thoroughly.
.Perform idling adjustment.
.Remove the rubber caps from the vacuum gauge attachments on the carburetor holder.
22
ADJUSTM ENT-ENGINE
A. Vacuum Gauge Attachment B. Rubber Cap
@Attach the vacuum gauges (special tool) fitting the gauge hoses to the vacuum gauge attachments.
@ I f the difference in vacuum readings between any two cylinders i s greater than 2 cm Hg, synchronize the carburetors according to the following procedure.
To synchronize the carburetors
@Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47), and supply fuel for carburetors by some means during adjustment.
@Remove the carburetor top covers (4) and loosen the locknuts (Fig. B21 ).
@With the engine running at idle speed, readjust the individual throttle adjusting screws to set all the carburetors to within 2 cm Hg o f each other. Backing the screw out decreases vacuum and turning it in increases it. I f any gauge reads less than 14 cm Hg after synchronizing the carburetors; check the points listed in the end o f the idling adjustment (Pg. 21) and check and clean carburetor starter system.
Take care that no dirt or other foreign matter enters the tops of the carburetors during this operation, or else the throttle valves may stick.
@Perform idling adjustment again.
@Open the throttle grip and let i t snap shut a few times.
Make sure the vacuum readings stay within the specifi- ed vacuum reading. I f they do not, repeat the last t w o steps.
@After the carburetors are properly sunchronized, tight- en the locknuts without changing the positions o f the screws. Install the top covers.
@Detach the vacuum gauge and install the rubber caps on the vacuum gauge attachments.
@Install the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
@Adjust idle speed t o 1,000
-
1,100 rpm with the idle adjusting screw.
A. Vacuum Gauge Set (57001-127)
@With the engine running at idle speed, close the vacuum gauge damper valves until gauge needle flutter is less than 3 cm Hg. Normal vacuum gauge reading i s 19 - 2 4 cm Hg, and the difference between any two cylinders should be less than 2 cm Hg.
CLUTCH
Stretching o f the clutch cable causes the clutch lever to develop excessive play. Too much play will prevent complete disengagement and may result in shifting difficulty and possible clutch and transmission damage.
Most of the play must be adjusted out, but a small amount must remain so that the clutch release lever will function properly.
Clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment. This wear causes the play between the push rod and the adjusting screw to gradually diminish until the push rod touches the adjusting screw. When this play i s lost, the clutch will not engage fully, causing the clutch to slip.
NOTE: Even though the proper amount o f play exists at the clutch lever, clutch lever play alone cannot be used t o determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.
The adjustment procedure which follows compen- sates for both cable stretch and plate wear.
TO avoid a serious burn, never touch a D adjustment. A. Vacuum Gauge B. Damper Valve
To adjust the clutch:
*Turn i n fully the locknut and adjusting nut at the center o f the clutch cable t o give the cable plenty of play.
ADJUSTMENT-ENGINE 23
*Turn the adjusting screw in until it becomes hard t o turn. This is the point where the clutch i s just starting to release.
*Back out the adjusting screw
- screw position.
% turn from that point,
*Take up all the cable play with the adjusting n u t a t the center o f the cable, and then tighten the locknut.
*Make sure the lower end o f the clutch outer cable is properly fitted into the cable bracket hole in the engine sprocket cover.
If the cable is not fully seated in the cable bracket hole in the engine sprocket cover, it could slip into place later and the clutch would not disengage.
A. Adjusting Nut B. Locknut
*Loosen the knurled locknut at the clutch lever just enough so that the adjuster will turn freely, and then turn the adjuster to make a 5
-
6 mm gap between the adjuster and locknut.
A. Adjuster
B. Knurled Locknut
C. 5-6 mm
@Remove the clutch adjusting cover.
*Loosen the locknut, and back out the clutch adjusting screw a couple of turns.
A. Engine Sprocket Cover B. Clutch Cable
*Turn the adjuster at the clutch lever so that the clutch lever will have 2-3 mm o f play as shown in the figure, and tighten the knurled locknut.
A. Adjusting Screw B. Locknut
A. Adjuster
B. Knurled Locknut
C. 2 - 3 mm
*Install the clutch adjusting cover and gasket.
*Start the engine and check that the clutch has n o slippage and that i t releases properly.
24 ADJUSTMENT-ENGINE
E N G I N E O I L
In order for the engine, transmission, and clutch to function properly, always maintain the engine oil at the proper level and change the oil in accordance with the
Periodic Maintenance Chart (Pg. 10).
1 1 Motorcycle operation with insufficient, deteriorated, or contaminated engine oil will cause accelerated wear and may result in engine or transmission seizure and accident and injury.
Oil and Oil Filter Change
@Warm up the engine thoroughly, and then stop the engine.
@Set the motorcycle up on i t s center stand, place an oil pan beneath the engine, and remove the engine drain plug.
Oil Level Inspection
@ I f the oil has just been changed, start the engine and run it for several minutes at idle. This fills the oil filter with oil. Then wait several minutes until the oil settles.
Run the engine at idle at least until the ICPIUTION( oil pressure light turns off. Racing the engine before the oil reaches every part can cause engine damage and seizure.
@ I f the motorcycle has just been used, wait several minutes for all the oil to drain down.
@Check the engine oil level through the oil level gauge in the lower right side o f the engine. With the motor- cyc!e held level or on the center stand, the oil level should come up between the lines next t o the gauge.
A. Engine Oil Level Gauge
B. Upper Level Line
C. Lower Level Line
A. Engine Drain Plug B. Oil Filter Mounting Bolt
@ I f the oil filter i s to be changed, remove the filter mounting bolt and drop out the oil filter.
@Replace the oil filter with a new one. Check that i t i s properly assem bled.
NOTE: Check for 0 ring damage. I f necessary, replace them with new ones.
@Install the oil filter, tightening i t s bolt to 2.0 kg-m
(1 4.5 ft-lbs) o f torque.
@After the oil has completely drained out, install the engine drain plug. Proper torque for the drain plug i s 3.8 kg-m (27 ft-lbs).
@Fill the engine up t o the upper level with a quality motor oil specified in the table.
NOTE: After the engine has been run and then stopped for a few minutes, the oil level should come to between the upper and lower marks.
Table B7, Engine Oil
\t
1
Grade
]
Viscosity
I
Filling Engine Oil Capacity
1
When filter
SE class
1 OW50
3.0 liters
70WSO
@ I f the oil level i s too high, remove the excess oil, using a syringe or some other suitable device.
@ I f the amount o f oil i s insufficient, add oil through the oil filler opening. Use the same type and brand o f oil that already i s in the engine.
If the engine oil level gets extremely low or i f the oil pump or oil passages clog u p or otherwise d o not function properly, the red oil pres- sure warning light i n the switch panel will light. I f this light stays on when the engine speed i s above 1,300 rpm, stop the engine immediately and find the cause.
I f the engine i s run without oil, it will
kWARNlNGI
I n addition, the engine may suddenly seize, locking the rear wheel and causing an accident i f the clutch lever i s n o t pulled i n fast enough.
F U E L SYSTEM
Accumulation of water in the fuel tank will restrict the flow o f fuel and cause the carburetor to malfunc- tion. The fuel system should be cleaned out periodically in the following manner.
1. Clean the fuel system i n a well- ventilated area, and take ample care that there are no sparks or flame anywhere near the working area.
2. Never clean out the fuel system when the engine i s still warm.
3. Wipe any fuel off the engine before starting it.
@Turn the fuel tap lever t o the "ON" o r "RES" position.
.Remove the drain plug at the b o t t o m o f the fuel tap.
ADJUSTMENT-ENGI NE
25
A. Fuel Tap B. Drain Plug
.Holding a container under the fuel tap, t u r n the tap lever t o the "PRI" position t o drain the tank until only gasoline comes out. Then t u r n the lever t o the
"ON" or "RES" position. Install the gasket and the drain plug on the tap.
@ I f water has accumulated in the fuel tank, water may also have accumulated in the float bowl.
@Loosen the drain screws, and drain the fuel in the float bowls through the overflow tubes. Tighten the drain screws.
A. Drain Screw B. Overflow Tube
ADJUSTMENT-CHASSIS
27
Adjustment-Chassis
Table of Contents
REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
.
28
DRIVE CHAIN
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
28
BRAKES
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
29
FrontBrake
RearBrake
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
29
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
29
BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
30
STEERING
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
30
WHEEL BALANCE
HEADLIGHT
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
32
GENERAL LUBRICATION
28 ADJUSTMENT-CHASSIS
REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS
The rear shock absorbers can be adjusted t o onc o f five positions t o suit riding conditions. They can be left soft f o r average riding b u t should be adjusted hardcr f o r high spced riding, or riding with a passenger. Shock absorbers adjusted either too soft o r too hard adversely affect riding c o m f o r t and stability.
To adjust the rear shock absorbers:
*Turn the adjusting sleeve on each shock absorber t o the desired position with a h o o k spanner. The higher the adjusting sleeve i s positioned, the stronger the spring tension, and the harder the ride.
A chain worn past the service limit (Pg.
196) must be replaced. Such wear cannot be adequately compensated for by adjustment.
Drive Chain Slack
To adjust the drive chain:
*Loosen the nuts (2) o f the torque link.
A. Hook Spanner B. Adjusting Sleeve
*Check t o see that both adjusting sleeves are turned t o the same relative position.
If the shock absorber sleeves are not ad- justed to the same position, an unsafe riding condition may result.
A. Torque Link B. Nuts
*Loosen the l e f t and right chain adjuster locknut.
DRIVE CHAIN
Chain and sprocket wear causes the chain t o stretch, which results in power loss, acceleratcd chain and sprocket wear, and increased noise. A chain that has been adjusted too loose may be thrown o f f the sprock- ets. A chain that has been adjusted t o o tight will wear excessively and possibly break.
*To determine whether or n o t the chain requires adjust- ment, first set the motorcycle u p o n its center stand.
Rotate the rear wheel t o find the position where the chain i s tightest, and medsure the vertical movement midway between the sprockets. I f i t is less than 20 m m or more than 3 5 mm, adjust the chain so that the vertical movcrnent will be about 20 - 3 0 mm.
A. Chain Adjuster
B. Notch
C. Swing Arm Marks
D. Adjusting Bolt
E. Locknut
F. Axle Nut
ADJUSTMENT-CHASSIS 29
@Remove the cotter pin, and looscn the rear axle nut.
*If the chain is too tight, back out the left and right chain adjusting bolts evenly, and kick the wheel for- ward until the chain is too loose.
Take care not t o damage the brake hose.
Damaging the brake line greatly reduces the brake line strength and causes brake fluid leakage, resulting i n the loss of brake control.
*Turn the left and right chain adjusting bolts evenly until the drive chain has the correct amount o f slack.
To keep the chain and wheel aligned, the notch on the left chain adjuster should align with the same swing arm mark that the right chain adjuster notch aligns with.
NOTE: Wheel alignment can also be checked using the straightedge or string method.
Misalignment of the wheel will result i n abnormal wear, and may result i n an unsafe riding condition.
*Tighten both chain adjuster locknuts (Make sure the axle stays aligned).
*Tighten the axle nut to 8.0 kg-m (58 ft-lbs) o f torque.
*Rotate the wheel, measure the vertical movement again at the tightest position, and readjust i f necessary.
*Tighten the torque link nuts to 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) of torque.
@Insert a new cotter pin through the axle and spread i t s end.
A. Footpeg
B. Brake Pedal
C. 0
-
30 m m
D. Adjusting Bolt
E. Locknut
@If it is too high; first loosen the brake push rod lock- nut, slide down the push rod dust cover, and shorten the push rod to give the brake pedal plenty of play
( F i g C6). Then adjust the brake pedal position.
*If i t is too low; loosen the locknut, turn the brake pedal adjusting bolt to obtain the correct pedal posi- tion, and then tighten the locknut.
*Check brake pedal travel, and tighten the brake push rod locknuts.
BRAKES
Front Brake
Disc and disc pad wear is automatically compensated for and has no effect on brake lever action. So there are no parts that require adjustment on the front brake.
However i f the brake lever has a soft, or "spongy feeling", check the brake fluid level i n the master cylinder and bleed the air from the brake line (Pg. 205).
Rear Brake
Disc and disc pad wear i s automatically compensated for and has no effect on brake pedal action. However, the brake pedal may occasionally require adjustment due to wear of the brake pedal pivot, or in case of dis- assembly. Excessive play must be taken up to keep the braking action lag time to a minimum, but enough play must be left to ensure a full braking stroke.
NOTE: Check the brake fluid level in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart (Pg. 10). Before adjust- ing the brake, be sure that all air i s bled from the brake line (Pg. 205).
Brake Pedal Position
@When the brake pedal i s i n i t s rest position, it should be 0
-
30 mm lower than the top o f the footpeg.
Rear Brake Pedal Play
*The brake pedal should have 8
-
1 0 mm o f free play from the rest position before the push rod contacts the master cylinder piston.
A. 8
-
10 m m Free Play C. Locknut
B. Push Rod
@To adjust play, loosen the push rod locknut and turn the push rod. Tighten the locknut.
*Check the rear brake light switch (Pg. 30).
*Check for brake drag.
30 ADJUSTMENT-CHASSIS
BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
The front brake light switch, mounted on the front brake master cylinder, i s operated simple electrical contact and does not need adjustment. However, the rear brake light switch, activated by a spring attached t o the brake pedal, requires periodic adjustment t o compensate for any change in spring shape or tension.
.Check the operation o f the swing by turning on the ignition switch and depressing the brake pedal. The brake light should go on after 15 mm o f pedal travel.
I f the steering i s too tight, i t will be difficult to turn the handlebar quickly, the motorcycle may pull to one side, and the steering stem bearings may become dam- aged. I f the steering i s too loose, the handlebar will vibrate and the motorcycle will be unstable and difficult t o steer i n a straight line.
To check the steering adjustment:
.Place a stand or block under the engine so that the front wheel i s raised o f f the ground.
.Push the handlebar lightly t o either side; i f it continues moving under its own momentum, the steering is not too tight.
.Squatting in front of the motorcycle, grasp the lower ends o f the front f o r k a t the axle, and push and pull the fork end back and forth; if play i s felt, the steering i s too loose.
I
A. Rear Brake Light Switch
B. Spring
Adjustment
- nections inside the switch, do not turn
C. 15 mm
.If it does not, adjust the switch so that the brake light will go on after the proper amount o f brake pedal travel. Raising the switch will make the light go on after less travel; lowering it will require more travel. i s made by altering the position o f the mounting nuts on the brake switch body.
To avoid damaging the electrical con- the switch body during adjustment.
To adjust the steering:
.Put the motorcycle up on i t s center stand, and jack or prop up the engine so that the front wheel will be o f f the ground.
*Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47) t o avoid damaging the painted surface.
.Loosen the front fork upper clamp bolts (2) to free merit:.
A. Brake Light Switch
B. Mounting Nuts
C. Lights sooner
D. Lights later
STEER l NG
For safety, the steering should always be kept ad- iusted so that the handlebar will turn freely b u t have no play. A. Front Fork Upper Clamp Bolt
.Remove the handlebar clamp bolts and lockwashers
(4 ea), and take o f f the clamps.
ADJUSTMENT-CHASSIS 31
A. Stem Nut Wrench (57001-1 100)
B. Another 1/16 Turn
A. Handlebar B. Clamps C. Clamp Bolts
.Loosen the steering stem head bolt and head clamp bolt, and back out the steering stem locknut using the stem nut wrench special tool) i t turns without drag.
1 or 2 turns until
NOTE: Do not back out the steering stem locknut more than a couple o f turns. I f the locknut is backed o f f too far, the bearing balls in the steering stem may fall o u t o f place. This will necessitate steering stem removal and installation.
.Tighten the steering stem head bolt t o 4.5 kg-m (33 ft-lbs) o f torque.
-
.Tighten the steering stem head rear clamp bolt to 1.8 kg-m (1 3.0 ft-lbs) o f torque.
.Tighten the front fork upper clamp bolts (2) t o 1.8 kg-m (1 3.0 ft-lbs) of torque.
.Check the steering again. If the steering i s too tight or too loose in spite of correct adjustment, inspect the steering stem parts according t o the maintenance sec- tion (Pg. 206).
.Install the handlebar referring to the handlebar installa- tion section.
.Remount the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
I
WHEEL BALANCE
To improve stability and decrease vibration at high speed, the front and rear wheels must be kept balanced.
Check and balance the wheels when required, or when a tire is replaced with a new one:
.Remove the wheel (Pg. 1 15 or 123).
.Check that the wheel is not damaged.
.Suspend the wheel so that i t can be spun freely.
.Spin the wheel lightly, and mark the wheel at the top when the wheel stops.
A. Stem Nut Wrench (57001-1 100)
0. Stem Head Bolt
C. Head Clamp Bolt
D. Stem Locknut
.Tighten the stem locknut to 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) o f torque.
NOTE: I f a suitable torclue wrench i s not available, tighten the steering stem 'locknut lightly (until it just becomes hard to'turn), and then continue for another
111 6 turn (about 20" &el) from that point. A. Mark
32 ADJUSTMENT-CHASSIS
.Repeat this procedure several times. I f the wheel stops o f its own accord in various positions, it is well bal- anced.
.However, i f the wheel always stops in one position, provisionally attach a balance weight on the rim at the marking using an adhesive tape.
.Rotate the wheel % turn, and see whether or not the wheel stops in this position. I f i t does, the correct balance weight i s being used.
.Inflate the tire to standard pressure (Pg. 194).
.Remount the wheel on the motorcycle (Pg. 11 5 or
1 24).
NOTE: Balance weights are available from Kawasaki
Dealers in 10, 20, and 30 gram sizes. An imbalance of less than 10 grams will not usually affect running sta- bility.
HEADLIGHT
The headlight beam is adiustable both horizontally and vertically: I f not properly adjusted horizontally, the beam will point t o one side rather than straight ahead. I f adjusted too low vertically, neither low nor high beam will illuminate the road far enough ahead.
I f adjusted too high vertically, high beam will fail to illuminate the road close ahead, and low beam will blind oncoming drivers.
NOTE: The headlight on UK model cannot be adjusted horizontally.
Horizontal Adjustment (not o n UK model):
.Turn the small screw on the headlight rim in or out until the beam points straight ahead. Turning the adjusting screw clockwise makes the headlight beam point to the left.
A. Balance Weight B. '/4 Turn
.If the wheel rotates and the weight goes up, replace the weight with the next heavier size. I f the wheel rotates and the weight goes down, replace the weight with the next lighter size. Repeat these steps until the wheel remains at rest after being rotated
.Rotate the wheel another
%I turn.
'/4 turn and then another
1/4 turn t o see i f the wheel is correctly balanced.
.Repeat the entire procedure as many times as necessdry to achieve correct wheel balance.
.To install the balance weights on the rim, first reduce the tire pressure, pry the tire bead trom the rim, and then insert the blade part o f the balance weight be- tween the rim and the tire bead until the stepped portion o f the weight i s hooked over the edge o f the rim.
Balance Weight Installation
A. Adjusting Screw
Vertical Adjustment:
.Remove the two screws from the lower side o f the headlight housing, and drop out the headlight unit.
0
1. Tire
2. Rim
3. Tube
4. Blade
5. Weight
6. Tire Bead A. Screw
*Loosen the turn signal mounting nuts.
A. Turn Signal Mounting Nut
*Move the headlight housing up or down so that the vertical aim i s correct, and then tighten the mounting nuts to hold i t there.
N O T E : On high beam, the brightest point should be slightly below horizontal. Adjust the headlight to the proper angle according to local regulation that applies to i t s operation. Adjust with normal operational weight loaded on the motorcycle.
Vertical Adjustment
ADJUSTMENT-CHASSIS 33
Avoid spraying water with any great force near the meter assembly, and under the fuel tank and the seat to prevent damage to electrical components. Exprosed parts that are subject to rust can be treated with a pro- tective polish or a water-displacing oil (brand-name examples: WD-40, LPS).
Never wax or lubricate brake discs. Loss of braking and an accident could result.
Clean discs with an oilless solvent such as tricholo- ethylene or acetone. Observe solvent manufacture's warnings.
Brake Lever
Clutch Lever
.Remount the headlight unit.
A. Grease.
G E N E R A L L U B R I C A T I O N
Lubrication of exposed parts subject to rust with either motor oil or regular grease should be carried out periodically and whenever the vehicle has been operated under wet or rainy conditions.
Throttle Grip
Apply grease to the handlebar where the throttle grip turns.
Apply a light coat o f grease to the exposed portion of the throttle grip inner cables and their catches in the throttle grip.
Fit the throttle cables into the throttle grip. Refer t o throttle cable installation (Pg. 135).
Right Footpeg, Brake Pedal,
Brake Push Rod Joint
A. Grease
Clutch and Throttle Cables
Lubricate the clutch cable and throttle cables, as shown in the figure. Use a lubricant designed for cable lubrication. Refer to Pg. 134 for cable removal.
Cable Lubrication
(C24)
Center Stand
Swing Arm Pivot
Force grease into the nipple until i t comes out at both sides o f the swing arm, and wipe o f f any excess.
Left Footpeg, Side Stand
Speedometer and Tachometer Cables
Apply grease sparingly t o these inner cables.
A. Grease.
Carburetor Choke Link Mechanism
Others
Lubricate the drive chain, wheel bearings, and steer- ing stem bearing as explained in Maintenance Section.
NOTE: A few drops of oil are effective to keep bolts and nuts from rusting and sticking. This makes easy removal at your next work. Badly rusted nuts, bolt, etc. should be replaced with new ones.
ADJUSTMENT-CHASSIS 35
DISASSEMBLY-INTRODUCTION
37
Disassembly-Introduction
Table of
Contents
INTRODUCTION TO DISASSEMBLY
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
38
TORQUE A N D LOCKING AGENT
38 DISASSEMBLY-INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION TO DISASSEMBLY
Detail has not been spared in this section in order that the motorcycle can not only be taken apart but also put back together properly as well. Photographs, diagrams, notes, cautions, warnings, and detailed descriptions have been included wherever necessary. Nevertheless, even a detailed account has limitations; a certain amount of basic knowledge i s also required for successful work.
Especially note the following:
(1) Edges
Watch for sharp edges, especially during major engine disassembly and assembly. Protect your hands with gloves or a piece of thick cloth when lifting the engine or turning it over.
(2) Dirt
Before removal and disassembly, clean the motorcycle. Any dirt entering the engine, carburetor or other parts will work as an abrasive and shorten the life of the motorcycle. For the same reason, before installing a new part, clean off any dust or metal fillings.
(3) Tightening Sequence
Where there is a tightening sequence indication in this Service Manual; the bolts, nuts, or screws must be tightened in the order and method indicated. When installing a part with several bolts, nuts, or screws; they should all be started in their holes and tightened t o a snug fit. Then tighten them evenly, according to the tightening sequence, to the specified torque. This is to avoid distortion of the part and/or causing gas or oil leakage. Conversely when loosening the bolts, nuts, or screws; loosen all of them about a quater of turn and then remove them.
(4) Torque
The torque values given in this Service Manual should always be adhered to. Either too little or too much torque may lead to serious damage. Use a good quality, reliable torque wrench.
Common sense should dictate how much force is necessary in assembly and disassembly. If a part seems especially difficult to remove or install, stop and examine what may be causing the problem. Whenever tapping is necessary, tap lightly using a wooden or plastic-faced mallet.
Use an impact driver for screws (particularly for the removal of screws held by a locking agent) in order to avoid damaging the screw heads.
(6) Lubricant
Don't use just any oil or grease. Some oils and greases in particular should be used only in certain applications and may be harmful if used in an application for which they are not intended.
(7) Battery Ground
Before performing any disassembly operations on the motorcycle, remove the ground (-) lead from the battery to prevent the possibility of accidentally turning the engine over while partially disassembled.
(8) Engine Rotation
When turning the crankshaft by hand, always turn i t in the direction of normal rotation; which i s clockwise, viewed from the right side of the engine. This will ensure proper adjustments.
Engine wear is generally a t i t s maximum while the engine is harming up and before all the rubbing surfaces have an adequate lubricative film. During assembly, oil or grease (whichever is more suitable) should be applied to any rubbing surface which has lost its lubricative film. Old grease and dirty oil should be cleaned off. Deteriorated grease has lost i t s lubricative quality and may contain abrasive foreign particles.
(10) Press
A part installed using a press or driver, such as a wheel bearing, should first be coated with oil on i t s outer or inner circumference so that i t will go into place smoothly.
(1 1) Oil Seal, Grease Seal
Replace any oil or grease seals that were removed with new ones, as removal generally damages seals. A seal guide is required for certain oil or grease seals during installation to avoid damage to the seal lips. Before a shaft passes through a seal, apply a little oil, preferably high temperature grease on the lips to reduce rubber to metal friction.
(12) Gasket, 0 Ring
When in doubt as to the condition of a gasket or 0 ring, replace it with a new one. The mating surfaces around the gasket should be free of foreign matter and perfectly smooth to avoid oil or compression leaks.
DISASSEMBLY-INTRODUCTION 39
(13) Liquid Gasket, Non-permanent Locking Agent
Follow manufacturer's directions for cleaning and preparing surfaces where these compounds will be used. Apply sparingly. Excessive amounts may block engine oil passages and cause serious damage. An example of a non-permanent locking agent commonlv available in North
America is Loctite Lock'n Seal (Blue).
(14) Ball Bearing, Oil Seal, Grease Seal Installation
When installing a bali bearing, the bearing race which i s affected by friction should be pushed by a suitable driver. This prevents severe stress on the balls and races, and prevents races and balls from being dented. Press a ball bearing until it stops at the stop in the hole or on the shaft.
Seals should be pressed into place using a suitable driver, which contacts evenly with the side of the seal until the face of the seal is even with the end of the hole.
(15) Circlip, Retaining Ring
Replace any circlips and retaining rings that were removed with new ones, as removal weakens and deforms them. When installing circlips and retaining rings, take care to compress or expand them only enough t o install them and no more.
A high flash-point solvent i s recommended to reduce fire danger. A commercial solvent common- ly available in North America is Stoddard solvent (generic name). Always follow manufacturer and container directions regarding the use of any solvent.
(17) Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS, ) Grease
This manual makes reference to molybdenum disulfide grease in the assembly of certain engine and chassis parts. Always check manufacturer recommendations before using such special lubricants.
( 18) Electrical Leads
All the electrical leads are either single-color or two-color and, with only a few exceptions, must be connected to leads of the same color. On any of the two-color leads there i s a greater amount of one color and a lesser amount of a second color, so a two-color lead i s identified b y first the primary color and then the secondary color. For example, a yellow wire with thin red stripes i s referred to as a "yellowlred" wire; it would be a "redlyellow" wire if the colors were reversed t o make red the main color.
TORQUE AND LOCKING AGENT
Tighten all bolts and nuts to the proper torque using an accurate torque wrench. I f insufficiently tightened, a bolt or nut may become damaged or fall off, possible resulting in damage t o the motor- cycle and injury to the rider. A bolt or nut which i s overtightened may become damaged, strip an internal thread, or break and then fall out. The following table lists the tightening torque for the major bolts and nuts, and the parts requiring use of a non-permanent locking agent or liquid gasket.
Parts marked with a cross
( t ) must be retorqued according to the Periodic Maintenance Chart
(Pg. 10). One a t a time, loosen each bolt or nut % turn, then tighten it to the specified torque.
Follow the sequence if specified. For engine fasteners, retorque them when the engine i s cold
(at room temperature).
NOTE: Marks used in "Remark"
8
: Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads.
*
: Apply a liquid gasket to the threads or washer.
ENGINE
~ -
P a r t
Alternator rotor bolt $ 10 P I
Alternator stator Allen bolts 46 P1.0
Breather cover bolt $8 P1.25
Camshaft cap bolts 46 P 1.0
Quantity
1
3
1
16
Metric
(kg-m)
7.0
1 .O
0.60
1.2
English
(ft-lbs)
5 1
87 in-lbs
52 in-lbs
104 in-lbs
Remark See Pg.
-
0
-
-
7 6
7 6
6 9
59
40 DISASSEMBLY-I NTRODUCTION
Part
Camshaft chain guide (rear) Allen bolts
$6 P1.0
Camshaft chain tensioner cap $ 18 P 1.5
Camshaft sprocket bolts $6 P I .0
Carburetor holder screws $ 6 P I .0
Clutch hub nut $20 P I .5
Clutch release mounting screws $6 PI .0
Clutch spring bolts $ 6 P I .0
Connecting rod big end cap nuts $7 P0.75
Crankcase bolts
(upper) $6 P1.O
(lower) $6 P1.O
(lower) $8 Pl.25
Cylinder nuts $6 P1.O
:Cylinder head bolts $6 P 1.0 nuts $ 8 P I .25
Cylinder head cover bolts $6 P I .0
Drive chain guard bolts $6 P1.O
Engine drain plug $ 12 P1.5
-Engine mounting bolts $ 10 P I .25
-Engine mounting bracket bolts $8 P I .25
Engine sprocket holding plate bolts
46 P1.0
-Muffler exhaust pipe holder nuts $6 P I .0 exhaust pipe clamp bolts $8 P1.25 connecting pipe clamp bolts $ 8 P1.25 rear mounting bracket bolts $8 P I .25 rear mounting bolts (footpeg) $ 10 P I .25
Neutral switch $20 P1.5
Oil filter mounting bolt $20 P I .5
Oil pan bolts $6 P1.0
Quantity
Metric
(kg-m
English
-
18.0
11.0
-
98
-
78 in-lbs
17.5
87 in-lbs
87 in-lbs
18.0
104 in-lbs
104 in-lbs
16.5
87 in-lbs
-
27
29
17.5
87 in-lbs
-
-
-
-
11.0
14.5
87 in-lbs
Remark See Pg.
Part
Oil pressure switch PT118
Oil pressure relief valve 4 12 P I .25
Return spring pin (bolt) 48 P I .5
Secondary shaft nut 4
Shift drum pin plate screw 46 P I .0
Shift pedal bolt 46 P1.O
Spark plugs 4 12 P 1.25
Starter motor clutch Allen bolts $ 8 P I .25
Studs
(cylinder head) 46 P I .0
(crankcase) 46 P I .0
(crankcase) 48 P1.25
Timing advancer mounting bolt 48 P I .25
Quantity
DISASSEMBLY-INTRODUCTION 41
Metric
(kg-m
English
Remark See Pg.
CHASSIS
Part
?Clutch lever holder bolt $6 P1.O
Disc brake parts
Quantity
I
Metric
I
English
I
Remark
I
See Pg.
(kg-m) (ft-lbs)
(front) 4 12 Pl.25
(rear) 4 10 P I .25 t Front axle clamp bolt 48 P I .25
V r o n t axle nut 414 P l . 5 t Front fender mounting bolts $ 8 P 1.25
Front fork bottom Allen bolts 48 P I -25 t Front fork clamp bolts
(upper) 48 P I -25
(lower) 48 P I .25
Front fork drain bolts 46 P I .0
?Handlebar clamp bolts 48 P I .25 i Rear axle nut $ 16 P I .5
See Table of Disc Brake Parts or Table G 1 on Pg. 1 18.
-
-
14.5
5 8
-
13.0
13.0
13.0
69 in-lbs
13.0
58
42 DISASSEMBLY-I NTRODUCTION
Part t Rear shock absorber mounting nuts $ 10 P I .25 bolts $ 10 P 1.25
I
Rear sprocket nuts $ 10 P I .25
I
?Side stand pivot nut $ 10 P1.25
I
?Steering stem head bolt $ 16 P I .5
I
?Steering stem head clamp bolt 48 P 1.25
I
Steering stem locknut $30 P1.O
I
?Swing arm pivot shaft nut $14 P1.5
1
?Torque link nuts (10 PI .25
Quantity
Metric
(kg-m
English
Remark See Pg.
BRAKE
Part
Bleed valves $7 P1.O
Brake hose banjo bolts 4 10 P1.25
Brake lever pivot bolt $6 P1.0 locknut $6 P 1.0 t Brake pedal cap nut $ 8 P I .25
Disc mounting bolts $ 8 P I .25
Front caliper holder shaft nuts $ 10 P I .25
+Front caliper mounting bolts $10 P1.25
1 Front master cylinder clamp bolts
$6 P1.0
Rear caliper Allen bolts $ 10 P I .25 tRear caliper mounting bolt (torque link)
$10 P1.25 t Rear master cylinder mounting bolts
$ 8 P1.25
Pad mounting screws $6 P I .0
Quantity
Metric
(kg-rn)
English
69 in-lbs
2 2
26 in-lbs
52 in-lbs
14.5
16.5
19.0
2 2
78 in-lbs
22
22
-
26 in-lbs
See Pg.
DISASSEMBLY -INTRODUCTION
43
The table below, relating tightening torque to thread diameter and pitch, lists the basic torque for the bolts and nuts used on Kawasaki Motorcycles. However, the actual torque that is necessary may vary amount bolts and nuts with the same thread diameter and pitch. The bolts and nuts listed on
Pg. 39- 42 vary to a greater or lesser extent from what i s given in this table. Refer to this table for only the bolts and nuts not included in the table on Pg. 39-42 All of the values are for use with dry solvent-cleaned threads.
Coarse threads dia (mm)
12
14
16
18
2 0
5
6
8
10
Fine threads dia (mm)
12
14
16
18
20
5
6
8
10 pitch (mm)
0.80
1
.oo
1.25
1.50
1.75
2.00
2.00
2.50
2.50
1.50
1.50
1.50
1.50
1.50 pitch (mm)
0.50
0.75
1
.oo
1.25 kg-m
0.35- 0.50
0.60- 0.90
1.6- 2.2
3.1-4.2
5.4- 7.5
8.3- 1 1.5
13.0- 18.0
18.0- 25
26- 35 kg-m
0.35- 0.50
0.60- 0.80
1.4- 1.9
2.6- 3.5
4.5- 6.2
7.4- 10.2
1 1.5- 16.0
17.0- 23
23- 33 ft-lbs
30- 43 in4 bs
52- 78 in-lbs
1 1.5- 16.0
22- 30
39- 54
60- 83
94- 130
130- 181
188- 253 ft-l bs
30- 43 in-lbs
52-69 in-lbs
10.0- 13.5
19.0- 25
33- 45
54- 74
83- 116
123- 166
166- 239
DISASSEMBLY.. ENGINE I N S T A L L E D 45
Disassembly-
Engine
Installed
Table of Contents
FLOW CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
FUEL T A N K . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
FUEL TAP
AIR CLEANER ELEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
CARBURETORS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
MUFFLERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
IGNITION COILS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
TOP
EkL)
CAMSHAFTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
CAMSHAFT SPROCKETS
CYLINDER HEAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
VALVES. V A L V E GUIDES
CYLINDER BLOCK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
CAMSHAFT C H A I N GUIDES (Upper. Front. Rear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
PISTONS. PISTON RINGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
BREATHER COVER
LEFT SIDE
ENGINE SPROCKET COVER
CLUTCH RELEASE
ENGINE SPROCKET
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
E X T E R N A L SHl F T MECHANISM
N E U T R A L SWITCH
STARTER MOTOR
ALTERNATOR STATOR
ALTERNATOR ROTOR
RIGHT SIDE
CONTACT BREAKERS
CAPACITORS
TIMING ADVANCER
CLUTCH
BOTTOM END
O I L PRESSURE SWITCH
O I L FILTER. BYPASS V A L V E
O I L PRESSURE RELIEF V A L V E
ENGINE O I L PUMP
SECONDARY SHAFT. STARTER MOTOR CLUTCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 4
STARTER MOTOR IDLE GEAR
FLOW CHART
Disassembly -
The following chart i s intended to be aids t o proper removal. Select the component you wish to remove and follow the arrows to that point on the chart.
Left Side Right Side Bottom End Top End
I
I
Motorcycle
I
I
Clutch
Cover
P 81
I
I
Tachometer
Cable
(Lower End)
Left Footpeg [Starter Motor Cover
P 76
Contact Breaker Cover
P 77 P 4 9
P 47
Fuel Tank
Carburetors
P 57
Baffle Ignition
P 6 8
Breather
Cover
P 69
Shift Pedal v
Engine Sprocket Cover
Mechanism
Cover
Shift
I
Carburetor Camshaft Pressure
.
Relief
Valve
Clutch
Housing
Starter
Motor t
V P 7 6
Alternator
Rotor
Alternator
Stator
Oil Pump
P 83
P 6 4
I v P 8 4
Secondary Shaft & Gear c
Secondary Sprocket & Starter Motor Clutch
Starter Motor Idle Gear
Guides
Valves
&
Valve
P 6 2
P 57
Camshafts
Shims
NOTES: 1. Before performing any disassembly operations, remove the ground (-) lead from the battery to prevent the possibility of accidentally turning the engine over.
2. Action with a mark (*)
FUEL TANK
Removal:
.Unlock the seat and swing it open.
.Turn the fuel tap to the "ON" or "RES" position, slide the hose clamps down, and vacuum hose o f f the tap. pull the fuel hose and
.Lift the rear end of the fuel tank up about 30 mm and then pull the fuel tank o f f toward the rear.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED 47
.Install the fuel tank completely. Be sure the retaining projection is seated i n the retaining rubber hole.
A. Retaining Projection
.Push the seat back down.
B. Retaining Rubber
A. Lift u p about 30 mm.
B. Pull o f f toward the rear.
Installation:
.Mount the fuel tank. F i t the fuel hose and vacuum hose back onto the fuel tap, and slide the hose clamps back into place. The vacuum hose has a small diameter than the fuel hose.
FUEL TAP
Removal
:
.Remove the fuel tank.
.Holding a container under the fuel tap, turn the tap t o the "PRI" position to drain the tank.
.Remove the bolts and gaskets, and pull the fuel tap o f f the fuel tank. Be careful not to damage the filter.
A. Fuel Hose B. Vacuum Hose C. Clamps
A. Fuel Hose B. Vacuum Hose
A. Fuel Tap B. Fuel Tap Bolts
Installation Notes:
1. Check the 0 it with a new one i f i t i s damaged or deteriorated.
2. After installing the fuel tap on the tank, make sure that the fuel stops when the engine stops.
3. The vacuum hose i s the small diameter hose; the fuel hose i s larger (Fig. E3).
48 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D
Fuel Tap
Disassemblv:
*Remove the screws washer, and holding plate.
3 lever, wave
.
- - . - , remove
1 Check 2nd clean all the parts ( P g 155). Replace damdged parts with new ones.
2 Install the diaphragm cover in the drcction shown in
Fig. E9, making sure that the rpring is compressed at the Center of the dirphragm between the diaphragm dnd the cover.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D 49
Air Cleaner Element Installation a
A. Diaphragm Cover
A I R CLEANER E L E M E N T
Removal
:
.Unlock the seat, and swing i t open.
.Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
.Remove the bolts (2) and baffle plate.
1 . Air Cleaner Housing
2. Sponge
3. Air Cleaner Element
4. Air Cleaner Cap
5. Cap Screw
6. Holder
7. Stop
A. Baffle Plate B. Air Cleaner Cap
.Remove the air cleaner cap screws (2) and flat washers
(2), and remove the cap.
.Pull out the element. A. Holder B. Stop
A. Air Cleaner Element
Installation Notes:
1 . Install the air cleaner element as shown in Fig. E l 2.
2. Whcn installing the air cleaner cap, f i t the front edge o f the cap into the housing properly (Fig. E l 2).
CARBURETORS
This section is divided as follows:
OCarburetor Removal and Installation
OCarburetors Separation and Assembly Notes
OChoke Mechanism Adjustment
OFast Idle Mechanism Adjustment
OThrottle Valve, Jet Needle Removal and Assembly
Notes
OChoke Valve Removal and Assembly Notes
K a r b u r e t o r Body Disassembly and Assembly Notes
Removal:
.Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
.Screw in fully the locknuts and adjusting nuts at the upper end o f the throttle cables so a5 to give the cables plenty o f play.
Removing the throttle cables from the carburetors without enough cable play, may cause throttle cable damage.
50 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D
@Loosen the throttle cable adjuster mounting nuts (2) fully, remove the decelerator throttle cable adjuster from its bracket, and slip the tip o f i t s inner cable out o f the pulley. Then do the same with the accelerator throttle cable.
@Slip the spring band that connects each air cleaner duct to i t s carburetor o u t o f place.
@Slip the carburetors out o f place.
A. Accelerator Cable
B. Decelerator Cable
C. Cable Adjuster
D. Mounting Nuts
@Remove the right and left side covers.
@Loosen the air cleaner housing mounting bracket bolt on each side.
Installation:
NOTE: I f the carburetors were disassembled, perform
Initial Synchronization-Mechanical (Pg. 19).
@Slip the carburetors back into place reversing the removal procedure.
@Check that the ducts and holders are all properly fitted on the carburetors; tighten the clamps and f i t the spring bands into their grooves.
@Tighten the air cleaner housing mounting bracket bolt on each side.
.Route the carburetor overflow tubes rear o f the engine.
(4) to the right
@Route the carburetor air vent tubes (2) air cleaner housing and the frame pipe. between the
@Run the accelerator throttle cable between the frame head pipe and left fork leg. F i t the tip of the accel- erator throttle cable into the catch in the left pulley, and install its adjuster into the cable bracket.
@Run the decelerator throttle cable between the frame top tube and the right side cradle. F i t the tip of the decelerator throttle cable into the catch in the right pulley, and install i t s adjuster into the cable bracket.
Turn the throttle grip at the same time, i f necessary.
NOTE: Be sure that both throttle cables run without kinks or sharp bends, and that they do not twist around each other.
A. Left Side
B. Right Side
C. Bracket Bolt
.Loosen the carburetor holder clamp for each carbu- retor.
A. Holder Clamp B. Spring Band
A. Accelerator Throttle Cable
B. Decelerator Throttle Cable
@Center each adjuster in place in the bracket, and tighten the locknut.
@Run the air vent tubes between the baffle plate and the frame pipes, and t o the upper o f the air cleaner housing.
@Run the overflow tubes through the clamp at the rear right side o f the engine, and between the engine and the swing arm.
@Install the side covers.
@Install the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
@Adjust the throttle cables (Pg. 18).
@Adjust the carburetors (Pg. 19)
Separation of Carburetors:
NOTES: 1 . The four carburetors look the same, but they are slightly different from each other. Notc the following prior to removal:
position o f the air screw and drain plug.
OPresence o f the fuel hose 3-way joint, air vent hose and connecting pipe.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED 51
A. Fast ldle Adjusting Screw
B. Fast ldle Arm
C. Arm Mounting Screw
.Remove the screw i 2 , and remove the throttle shaft set plate (3,.
2. All carburetor parts except the linkage mechanism and fast idle mechanism can be removed without separating the carburetors from the mounting plate.
.Remove the idle adjusting screw 2s , flat washer 2 9 , and spring 30
.
.Remove the rubber caps 44 from both sides o f the car- buretor assembly.
.Remove the screws Q and lockwashers
3
(3 ea), and remove the top covers @ (4) and gaskets Q (4).
.Remove the throttle return spring 3 3 .
A. Set Plate
.Push the throttle shaft 14 out to the right b y turning the shaft. The carburetor left pulley 2 2 , right pulley
1 0 , and fast idle arm 17 come o f f with the shaft.
A. Throttle Arm Mounting Screws
B. Pulley Mounting Screws
C. Return Spring
.Remove the throttle arm mounting screws 27 (4).
.Remove the pulley mounting screws .$
,
( 1 1 (2).
.Loosen the locknut ing screw I5
G and remove the fast idle adjust-
.
Then remove the fast idle arm mounting screw 13
.
A. Throttle Shaft B. Turn. C. Push.
52 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED
Carburetors
1. Screw
2. Lockwasher
3. Set Plate
4. Throttle Shaft
5. Lockwasher
6. Screw
7. Bracket
8. Mounting Screw
9. Circlip
10. Right Pulley
(Decelerator)
1 1. Mounting Screw
12. Throttle Stop Screw
13. Mounting Screw
14.' Locknut
15. Fast Idle
Adjusting Screw
16. Locknut
17. Fast Idle Arm
18. Mounting Plate
19. Spring
20. Cable Catch
21. Clevis
22. Left Pulley
(Accelerator)
23. Mounting Screw
24. Spring
25. Fast Idle Linkage
26. Pivot Screw
27. Mounting Screw 54. Screw
28. Idle Adjusting 55. Lockwasher
Screw
29. Flat Washer
56. Top Cover
57. Gasket
30. Spring 58. Locknut
31. Mounting Screw 59. Flat Washer
32. Bracket
33. Return Spring
34. Choke Lever
60. Adjusting Screw
61. Ball Seat
62. Spring
35. Steel Ball
36. Spring
63. Throttle Arm
64. Screw
37. Choke Linkage 65. Lockwasher
Shaft
38. Spring
39. Flat Washer
66. Throttle Valve
Bracket
67. Clip
40. Fast Idle Cam 68. Choke Arm
41. Mounting Screw 69. Mounting Screw
42. J e t Needle 70. Choke Valve
43. Throttle Valve
44. Rubber Cap
71. Carburetor Body
72. Gasket
45. Air Screw
46.
73. Valve Seat
74. Valve Needle
47. Spring
48.
49. Pilot Jet
50. Needle Jet
51. 0
52. Drain Plug
53. 0
75. Main jet
76. Float
77. Float Pin
78. Gasket
79. Float Bowl
80. Loc kwasher
81. Screw
R e m o v e the throttle valve assemblies (4).
.Remove the fast idle cam mounting screw 4 1 .
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D 53
4. Install the throttle shaft so that the notched shaft end is on the right side o f the carburetors.
5. Install the throttle shaft set plate so that the projec- tion on the plate is fitted in the bracket hole.
A. Fast Idle Cam 6. Spring C. Choke A r m
A. Set Plate B. Projection C. H o l e
@Remove the choke arm mounting screws 6.9 ( 4 ) .
.Pull o f f the choke shaft 31. The steel ball 3 5 , spring 36 , fast idle cam 40
, flat washer 39
, and spring 38 come o f f w i t h the shaft.
.Remove the choke valves i$ and choke arms 68' (4 ea).
.Remove the mounting screws 23 (8) and remove the carburetors from the mounting plate I 8
.
6. Install the fast idle cam as shown. The flat washer must be installed between the cam and the spring.
Assembly Notes:
1 . Install the fuel hose 3-way joint as shown
A. Fast Idle Cam B. Flat Washer C. Spring
7. Perform Initial Synchronization-Mechanical (Pg. 19),
Choke Mechanism Adjustment (Pg. 53), and Fast ldle
Mechanism Adjustment (Pg. 54) before installing the t o p covers.
8. ~ e ~ l a c e if it is damaged.
A. 3-way Joint
6. M Carburetor
C. +73 Carburetor
2. Apply a non-permanent locking agent t o the mount- ing screw threads.
3. Apply a thin coat o f grease on the throttle shaft before inserting the shaft through the carburetors.
Choke Mechanism Adjustment:
*Check t o see that each choke valve opens and closes smoothly w i t h o u t no binding when operating the choke lever.
54
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED
@Check to see that each choke valve closes the carbu- retor bore completely when the choke lever is pulled up, and that each choke valve opens fully when the choke lever i s pushed down.
Fast ldle Mechanism
I I
-
&
I
34
I
(E30)
A. Choke Lever B. Choke Valve
@ I f the above check shows improper adjustment, remove the top covers (4).
@Loosen the choke arm mounting s c r e w s , and adjust each choke valve position as the above check.
Fast Idle Adjusting Screw
Locknut
Fast ldle Arm
Choke Lever
40. Fast Idle Cam
43. Throttle Valve
70. Choke Valve the clearance i s not 1.7- 1.9 mm, loosen the lock- nut (16 and turn the fast idle adjusting screw I 5 to adjust.
A. Mounting Screw
B. Choke Arm
C. Push down the choke valve.
.Tighten all mounting screws, and re-check the valve operation.
@Install the top covers and gaskets.
NOTE: Replace the gasket with a new one, i f i t is damaged.
Fast ldle Mechanism Adjustment:
@Perform the Initial Synchronization-Mechanical (Pg.
19).
@Pull up the choke lever fully, and check that there is
1.7
-
1.9 mm clearance between the throttle valve and the bottom o f the carburetor bore.
B. Locknut A. Fast ldle Adjusting Screw
NOTE: This adjustment can be performed by using a piece o f 1.7
-
1.9 ,mm solid wire as same method as
Initial Synchronization-Mechanical (Pg. 19).
@Tighten the locknut without changing the adjusting screw position.
Throttle Valve, Jet Needle Removal:
NOTE: The throttle valve and jet needle can be re- moved without separating the carburetor from the mounting plate.
.Remove the idle adjusting screw 2 8 , flat washer 29, and spring 3 0 .
.Remove the screws @ and lockwashers @, and remove the top covers @and gaskets @ (4 ea).
*Remove the throttle return spring 3 3 .
.Remove the throttle arm mounting screws 27 (4).
.Remove the pulley mounting screws '8
, (13.
.Loosen the locknut d 6 and remove the fast idle adjust- ing screw ~ 5 . screw 13 (Fig. E20).
.Remove the screw
(3
(2 , and remove the throttle shaft set plate 3 (Fig. E21).
.Remove the rubber caps lk4 from both sides o f the carburetor assembly.
.Push the throttle shaft ,4, out b y turning the shaft. The carburetor left pulley 22 arm
, right pulley @ , and fast idle
Ir come o f f with the shaft (Fig. E22).
.Lift up the linkage, and pull out the throttle valve 43 and jet needle 42 .
.Remove the screws @ and lockwashers @ (2 ea), and take the throttle valve bracket @ and jet needle 42 out o f the throttle valve.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED
55
.Remove the screws @ and lockwashers@, and remove the top covers @ and gaskets @ (4 ea).
.Remove the choke arm mounting screws @.
A. Choke Valve
B. Choke Arm
C. Mounting Screw
D. Choke Linkage Shaft
.Pull the choke valve o f f the carburetor.
Assembly Notes:
Assemble the throttle valve and linkage as shown.
I
A. Linkage B. Throttle Valve C. Cutaway
2. Apply a thin coat o f grease on the throttle shaft before inserting the shaft through carburetors.
3. Install the throttle shift so that the notched shaft end i s on the right side o f the carburetors.
4. Install the throttle shaft set plate so that the projec- tion on the plate is fitted in the bracket hole (Fig.
E26).
5. Perform Initial Synchronization-Mechanical (Pg. 19) and Fast Idle Mechanism Adjustment (Pg. 54) before installing the top covers.
6. Replace the top cover gaskets with new ones, if they are damaged.
Choke Valve Removal:
NOTE: The choke valve can be removed without sep- arating the carburetor from the mounting plate.
A. Choke Valve
Assembly Note:
.Perform the Choke Mechanim Adjustment (Pg. 53) before installing the top covers.
Carburetor Body Disassembly (per carburetor)
:
NOTE: Following procedure explains removal o f the carburetor parts listed below, and these parts can be removed without separating the carburetors from the mounting plate.
Main jet
Needle jet
Pilot jet
Float
Valve Needle
Valve Seat
Pilot Air Screw
.Turn in the pilot air screw 45 and count the number o f turns until it seats fully but not tightly, and then unscrew it and remove i t with the 0 ring 4 .
.Remove the spring 6.
56 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED
*Remove thc screw5 87 dnd lockwashers take o f f the flodt bowl J9' and gasket 7%.
8-t (4 ed), dnd
.To remove the float valve seat @ , fir3t push o u t the float pin $ , remove the flodt @ , dnd pull o u t the float valve needle 8 .
A. Connecting Pipe
B. Exhaust Pipes
C. Clamps
.Remove the inner exhaust pipc holder nuts (2), and slide the holder o f f i t s cylinder head studs.
A. Main Jet
B. Float Pin
C. Float
D. Valve Needle
E. Pilot Jet
.Remove the float valve seat and gasket2.
.Remove the main j e t
0 ring 4
. so with its
.Remove the pilot jet 49
.
Assembly Notes:
1. Replace any 0 orated.
2. Install the plug 3,
A. Exhaust Pipe Holders
.Remove the split keeper, and pull the inner exhaust pipc o f f the muffler.
.Remove the outer exhaust pipe holdcr nuts (2), and slide the holder o f f its cylinder head studs.
.Remove the split keeper.
.Remove the rear footpeg mounting bolt to complete muffler removal. Also, remove the exhaust pipe holders and gaskets.
A. Drain Plug B.
MUFFLERS
Removal (each muffler):
.Loosen both clamps securing the muffler connecting
8
~ i ~ e
8 exhaust pipe to the muffler. A. Rear Footpeg B. N u t
Installation (each muffler) :
@Fit the connecting pipe and gasket to the muffler.
@Fit a gasket into the outer exhaust port, and place an exhaust pipe holder on the stud bolts.
@ F i t the end o f the exhaust pipe into the exhaust port, and attach the muffler to the frame with the rear footpeg mounting bolt finger tight.
@Fit the split keeper back into place, holding it in place with the exhaust pipe holder, tighten the holder nuts evenly to avoid an exhaust leak, and then tighten the rear footpeg mounting bolt.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED
57
I G N I T I O N COILS
Removal (each ignition coil):
@Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
@Pull the spark plug lead from each spark plug.
@Disconnect the black or green lead, and yellow/red lead o f the ignition coil.
A. Ignition Coil Leads
B. Nuts
C. Clamps
D. Ignition Coil
A. Exhaust Pipe Holder
B. Split Keeper
C. Gasket
@ F i t a gasket into the inner exhaust port and place an exhaust pipe holder on the stud bolts.
@ F i t the inner exhaust pipe i n t o the exhaust port and i n t o the muffler.
NOTE: There is an identification mark on the inner exhaust pipes. Do not mix up those exhaust pipes.
@Remove the nuts (2) to take o f f the ignition coil.
Installation (each ignition coil):
NOTE: Install the ignition coil bracket and the ignition coil
(#I, 4) under the right
(#2, 3) under the left bracket.
@Install the ignition coil with locknuts (2) so that the spark plug leads point to the rear. #2, 3 ignition coil locknuts have lead clamps.
@Connect the spark plug lead to each spark plug.
@Connect the ignition coil leads (green or black, yellow/ red).
A. #2 Cylinder Exhaust Pipe
B. #3 Cylinder Exhaust Pipe
C. Marks
@Fit the split keeper back i n t o place, tighten the exhaust pipe holder nuts evenly, and then tighten the clamp bolt.
@Tighten the clamp bolts o f the muffler connecting pipe.
CAMSHAFTS
Removal:
@Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
@Remove the ignition coils (Pg. 57).
@Remove the carburetors (Pg. 49).
@Remove the contact breaker cover and gasket.
@Using a 17 m m wrench on the crankshaft, set the 1, 4 pistons at TDC by aligning the timing advancer " T " mark on the 1, 4 side (the line adjoining the "T") with the timing mark.
58 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED
A. Timing Mark B. "T" Mark
*Remove the Allen bolt, and remove the tachometer pinion holder stops. Pull the tachometer pinion holder and pinion with the tachometer cable o f f the cylinder head.
Attempting t o install the camshafts with the tachometer pinion left.in the cylinder head may cause tachometer gear damage.
*Remove the camshaft cap bolts (16), and take o f f the camshaft caps (8).
*Remove the camshafts. Use a screwdriver or wire to keep the chain from falling down into the cylinder block.
Always pull the camshaft chain taut while turning the crankshaft with the camshaft chain loose. This avoids kinking the chain on the lower
(crankshaft) sprocket. A kinked chain could damage both the chain and the sprocket.
Installation:
*Check that the tachometer pinion i s removed from the cylinder head, and all camshaft cap knock pins
(16) are fitted.
*Check crankshaft position to see that the 1, 4 pistons are still at TDC, and readjust i f necessary. Remember to pull the camshaft chain taut before rotating the crankshaft.
*Apply clean engine oil to all cam parts.
*Feed the exhaust camshaft (tachometer gear is affixed) through the chain and remove the screwdriver. The notched camshaft end must be on the right side of the engine.
A. Holder Stops
B. Allen Bolt
C. Tachometer Cable
D. Pinion Holder
*Remove the cylinder head cover bolts the cover o f f the cylinder head.
*Remove the cylinder head cover gasket.
(24), and slip
*Remove the chain tensioner cap and gasket, and remove the tensioner bolts ( 2 ) and tensioner.
A. Exhaust Camshaft 6. Notch C. Front
*Turn the exhaust camshaft so that the line adjoining the EX mark on the sprocket i s pointing t o the front aligned with the cylinder head surface.
*Pull the chain taut and f i t it onto the exhaust camshaft sprocket.
A. Chain Tensioner
B. Tensioner Cap
C. Bolts
A. Exhaust Camshaft, B. Line C. Pull
*Feed the inlet camshaft through the chain, and align the line adjoining the Z/5 I N mark on the sprocket with the cylinder head surface and pointing to the rear.
Find the pin on the link pointed at by the exhaust camshaft sprocket line adjoining the EX mark, starting with this pin as first ( I ) , count t o the 43th pin. Check t o see that the inlet camshaft sprocket line adjoining the
Z/5 IN mark points between that 43th and 44th pins.
I f not, the camshafts are installed incorrectly.
DISASSEMBLY--ENGINE INSTALLED
59
A. Camshaft Cap B. Match the number.
*Partially tighten the left inside camshaft cap bolts first, to seat the camshaft in place. Fully tighten all the bolts to 1.2 kg-m (104 in-lbs) o f torque, following the tightening sequence shown in the figure.
Camshaft Cap Tightening Order
A
A. Inlet Camshaft
B. Line
C. 43rd Pin
D. 44th Pin
*Check that the camshaft chain seats in the groove o f the front and rear chain guides.
*The camshaft caps are machined together with the cylinder head, so match the number on the camshaft caps with the number on the cylinder head. The arrow on the cap points forward (toward the exhaust).
Cam Chain Timing
1. "IN, Z/5" Mark
2. lnlet Camshaft Sprocket
3. Sprocket Mounting Bolt
4. Camshaft Chain
5. Cylinder Head Upper Surface
6. Exhaust Camshaft
7. Sprocket Mounting Bolt
8. "EX" Mark
60 DISASSEMBLY
-
ENGINE INSTALLED
@Remove the 0 ring and clean the other tensioner parts using a high flash-point solvent, and then apply a molybdenum disulfide engine assembly grease to the sliding surfaces of them.
The dirt or grime on the sliding surfaces of the tensioner parts could cause the tensioner malfunction.
@Install the push rod spring on the push -rod and insert the push rod into the tensioner body. Compressing the spring, align the groove i n the side o f the rod with the hole in the side o f the tensioner body. Put the pin in the hole.
Installation of the tensioner without the pin can cause the push rod to fall into the cylinder.
Push Rod Installation rn
1. I f any resistance is felt when turning over the crankshaft, stop immediately, and ,check the camshaft chain timing. Valves may be bent, if the timing was not properly set.
2. Do not try to turn the crankshaft and camshafts with a wrench on the camshaft sprocket. Use a 17 mm wrench on the end of the crankshaft.
NOTE: I f a new camshaft, cylinder head, valve or valve lifter wear installed, check valve clearance at this time
(Pg. IS), and adjust if necessary.
@Apply a small amount o f molybdenum disulfide engine assembly grease to the tachometer pinion shaft, insert the pinion and pinion holder into the cylinder head
(Fig. €53).
@Install the pinion holder stops, and tighten the holder stop Allen bolt.
@Apply a liquid gasket t o the circumference o f each cylinder head rubber plug, and fit them in place.
1. Push Rod
2. Spring
3. Pin
4.
5. Tensioner
Body
@Install the tensioner body with i t s 0 ring, and tighten the bolts (2) evenly. The tensioner cap must be on the right side o f the engine.
@Before rotating the crankshaft, check that, with the crankshaft positioned so #1 and #4 pistons are at TDC, the timing marks on the exhaust and inlet camshaft sprockets are aligned with the cylinder head surface.
Rotation of the crankshaft with improper camshaft timing could cause the valves to contact each other or the piston, and bend.
@Turn the crankshaft over clockwise until pistons #I and #4 are at TDC, and re-check the camshaft timing.
I f the three timing mark pairs are aligned (Fig. E51), the cam timing i s correct.
A. Rubber Plug B. Apply a liquid gasket.
@Install the cylinder head cover with a new cylinder head cover gasket. The arrow on the cover must point toward the front. Tighten the cover bolts (24) to 1.0 kg-m (87 in-lbs) o f torque.
@Install the chain tensioner push rod stop so that the tapered surfaces o f the push rod and stop face each other. When the push rod stop has been properly installed, the push rod stop end stickes out 11 -12 mm.
NOTE: I f the push rod stop stickes out over the correct amount, it shows the camshaft chain slack has not yet been taken up fully. I n this case, turn the crankshaft over slowly in the normal direction pushing in the stop end lightly.
Push Rod Stop Installation
A. Pinion Shaft
B. Grease
C. "0" Ring
D. Pinion Holder
4-k
11-12 mm
@Install the carburetors (Pg. 50).
@Install the ignition coils (Pg. 5 7 ) .
@Install the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
@Install the contact breaker cover and gasket.
CAMSHAFT SPROCKETS
Removal (on each camshaft):
*Rcmovc the camshaft (Pg. 57).
*Remove the camshaft sprocket bolts (21, and slide thc sprocket o f f the camshaft.
Installation:
*Set the sprockct on the camshaft, aligning thc bolt holes. Use the two o f four sprockct bolt holes for installation as shown. The marked side o f the cam- shaft sprocket must face the notch on thc shaft cnd.
Camshaft Sprocket I nstallation
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D 61
C Y L I N D E R H E A D
Removal
:
*Remove the mufflers (Pg. 56).
*Remove thc carburetors ( P g 49).
*Rcniovc the camshafts (Pg. 57).
*Rcmovc thc cylindcr hcad bolts ( 5 ) from the b o t t o m of thc cylindcr hcad, and nut5 (12) from the upper cylindcr hcad.
1. Bolt Hole for Exhaust Camshaft
2. Bolt Hole for Inlet Camshaft
A. Cylinder Head Bolt
*Pull o f f the cylinder head, and remove the cylinder hcad gasket and 0 rings.
Installation:
NOTE: Thc camshaft caps are machined together w i t h thc cylindcr hcad, so, i f a new cylindcr hcad i s installed, usc thc caps that arc supplied with the new head.
*Using compressed air, blow out any particles which may obstruct the oil passages.
*Check that the orificcs (2) are in place.
*Install new 0 rings.
*Bc surc that the knock pins (2) arc in placc.
A. Sprocket B. Notch C. Camshaft
D. Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
*Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the sprockct bolts (2) and install the bolts, tightening them to 1.5 kg-m (1 1.0 ft-lbs) of torque.
*Install the camshafts (Pg. 58).
A. B. Knock Pins
*Install the gasket, so that the up mark on the gasket faces out.
62 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED
VALVES, V A L V E GUIDES
Removal (each valve and valve guide):
*Remove the cylinder head (Pg. 61 ).
.Pull out the valve lifters (8) and shims (8) with a suitable tool, marking them as to location.
NOTE: If more than one valve is to be removed, mark them as to location so they can be reinstalled in the proper place.
.Using the valve spring compressor assembly and adapter
(special tools) to press down the valve spring retainer
(4
, remove the split keeper 5 .
A. Gasket
B. "UP" Mark
C. "0" Ring
D. Orifice
.Install the cylinder head.
.Tighten the cylinder head nuts (12) first t o about 1.5 kg-m (1 1.0 ft-lbs) and finally t o 2.3 kg-m (16.5 ft-lbs) o f torque, following the tightening sequence shown in
Fig. E61. Each nut has a flat washer.
Cylinder Head Nut Tightening Order
A. Valve Spring Compressor Assembly (57001-241)
B. Adapter (57001-1078)
.Remove the tool, and then remove the spring retainer, outer spring 6
, and inner spring
$ 1 .
.Push out the valve 42 or 1 3 .
.Remove the oil seal J and spring band 8
.
.Tighten the cylinder head bolts (5) to 1.2 kg-m (104 in4 bs) o f torque.
.Lift u p the camshaft chain, and use a screwdriver t o keep the chain from falling down into the cylinder block.
.Install the camshafts (Pg. 58).
NOTE: I f a new camshaft, cylinder head, valve, or valve lifter was installed, check valve clearance (Pg. I S ) , and adjust if necessary.
.Install the carburetors (Pg. 50).
.Install the mufflers (Pg.
57).
.Adjust the throttle cable play (Pg. 18).
C h e c k the idling and adjust the carburetors i f necessary
(Pg. 21 ). grows cold, and retighten the cylinder head nuts (1 2) to 2.3 kg-m (1 6.5 ft-lbs) o f torque (Fig. E61).
E hot.
To avoid serious burn, never touch the
A. Spring Band
B. Oil Seal
C. Spring Seat
* k m o v e the spring seat.
.Heat the area around the guide 10 to about 120-1 5 0 ' ~
(248 -302"F), and hammer lightly on the valve guide arbor (special tool) t o remove the guide from the top of the head.
Valve and Valve Guide
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED 63
1. Valve Lifter
2. Shim
3. Split Keeper
4. Spring Retainer
5. Inner Spring
6. Outer Spring
7. Oil Seal
8. Spring Band
9. Circlip
10. Valve Guide
11. Cylinder Head
12. Exhaust Valve
13. Inlet Valve
-
1 5 0 " ~
-
302"F), and drive the valve guide i n from the top o f the head using the valve guide arbor
(special tool). The circlip stops the guide from going in too far.
@Ream the valve guide with the valve guide reamer
(special tool) even i f the old guide is re-used.
A. Valve Guide Arbor (57001-1021
Installation (each valve and valve guide):
NOTE: I f a new valve or valve guide are installed, check the valve/valve guide clearance (Pg. 167).
@Apply oil to the valve guide, and snap the circlip,$ into the groove o.n the valve guide.
@Heat the area around the valve guide hole to about 120 A. Valve Guide Reamer (57001-1079)
64 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D
*Lap the valve to check that i t i s seating properly. I f i t i s uneven, refer to the hlaintendnce Section (Pg.
168).
*Push a new oil seal into place.
*Apply a thin coat o f a molybdenum disulfide engine assembly grease to the valve stem, insert the valve, and install the outer and inner springs with the con- centrated portion o f each spring down as shown.
C Y L I N D E R BLOCK
Removal:
*Remove the cylinder head, gasket, and 0 rings (Pg. 61).
*Remove the cylinder block nuts (3).
*With a ldrge screwdriver, pry at the gap in each side o f the cylinder base to free the cylinder block from the crankcase, and l i f t o f f the cylinder.
Do not hammer on the screwdriver while it is in the pry point as engine damage could result (Fig. E69).
*Wrap a clean cloth around the base of each piston so that no parts or dirt will fall into the crankcase.
Installation;
NOTE: I f the cylinder block is replaced with a new one, piston t o cylinder clearance must be checked against the specified value (Pg. 173).
*With compressed air, blow out the oil passages and
0 ring guides to remove dirt or particles which may obstruct oil flow.
A. Inner Spring
B. Outer Spring
C. Concentrated Portion
*Install the spring retainer, press i t down with the valve spring compressor assembly, and put on the split keeper.
*After making sure that the split keeper, spring retainer, and valve stem are all properly fitted, remove the valve spring compressor assembly.
*Mount the shims and valve lifters in their original locations.
*Install the cylinder head (Pg. 61 ).
C h e c k valve clearance (Pg. 15), and adjust i f necessary.
Cylinder Block Pry Point
61
A.
B. Compressed Air
C. Knock Pins
D. Front Chain Guide
Good Bad
R e m o v e the cloth from under each piston.
.Check to see that the oil passage orifices (2) are in place, and that the small hole in each orifice faces up.
Install the new orifice 0 rings (2).
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D
65
.Pull the chain taut to avoid kinking the chain, and using a 17 mm wrench on the crankshaft, turn the crankshaft so that all the pistons are at about the same height.
.Slip the piston bases (special tool) under the pistons
' to hold them level.
A. Orifices
B. " 0 " Rings
Orifice Installation
C. Rear Chain Guide
B. Pistons A. Piston Base (57001-149) a
.Position each piston ring so that the opening i n the top and oil ring o f each piston i s facing forwards, and the second ring opening faces the rear. The openings o f the oil ring steel rails must be slipped to both directions about 30" from the opening of the expander. (This last step i s unnecessary i f the motorcycle i s provided with a one-piece oil ring.)
Piston Ring Openings (Front Side View) l
I
I
1. Orifice
2. Gasket
3. 0 Ring
4. Cvlinde'r Block
.Check that the front and rear chain guides are in place.
.Install a new cylinder base gasket so that the notch o f the gasket comes to the left side.
A. Gasket B. Notch C. Left
.Apply engine oil t o the piston rings and the inside cylinder surfaces.
.Compress the piston rings using a piston ring compres- sor grip and adapter (special tools) on each piston.
66
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D
.Pushing the front camshaft chain guide up, remove the guide from the cylinder block.
A. Piston Ring Compressor Grip (57001-1095)
B. Piston Ring Compressor Adapter (57001-1096)
.Check to see that the front chain guide i s properly fitted in the cylinder.
.Fit the cylinder block on the crankcase studs, inserting the rear chain guide into the cylinder block, and rest the bottom o f the cylinders on the piston ring com- pressors.
.Pull the camshaft chain up through the cylinders and insert a screwdriver through it to prevent the chain from falling into the crankcase.
.Work the bottom of each cylinder pa3t the rings, and set the cylinder block in place while removing the special tools. I f the cylinder block does n o t seat on the crankcase, l i f t i t up slightly, pull o u t the camshaft chain, and press the cylinder block down.
.Tighten the cylinder nuts (3) t o 1.2 kg-m (104 in-lbs) o f torque.
.Install the cylinder head (Pg. 61 ).
A. Front Chain Guide B. Cylinder Block
.Remove the rear camshaft chain guide Allen bolts (2), and take the guide o f f the crankcase.
C A M S H A F T C H A I N G U I D E S
(Upper, Front, Rear).
Removal :
*Remove the cylinder block (Pg. 64).
.Remove the upper camshaft chain guide from the cyl- inder head cover.
A. Rear Chain Guide B. Allen Bolts
.Pull the pivot pin to separate the guide from the brack- et.
Installation Notes:
1 . Install the rear chain guide to the bracket with the pin as shown.
A. Cylinder Head Cover 6. Upper Chain Guide A. Rear Chain Guide B. Bracket C. Pin
2. Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the rear chain guide Allen bolts ( 2 ) , and tighten them.
3. Install the front chain guide in the cylinder block as shown.
Front Camshaft Chain Guide Installation
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED
67
Cylinder Block
?I
\
Front Cam Chain Guide
/
A. Piston Pin Puller (57001-910)
B. Adapter "A" (57001-912)
*Remove the top and second rings with the piston ring pliers (special tool). To remove a ring by hand, spread the ring opening with both thumbs, and then push up on the opposite side.
PISTONS, PISTON RINGS
Removal:
*Remove the cylinder block (Pg. 64).
.Wrap a clean cloth around the base o f each piston so that no parts and dirt will fall i n t o the crankcase.
*Remove the piston pin snap rings from the outside o f each piston.
A. Piston Ring Pliers (57001-115)
A. Piston B. Snap Ring
A. Spread. B. Push up.
*Remove each piston by pushing its piston pin out the side that the snap ring was removed. Use the piston pin puller and adapter " A " (special tools) i f necessary.
*Remove the upper and lower oil ring steel rails, and then remove the oil ring expander.
68 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED
Top Ring, Second Ring
TOP
Ring
A. Oil Ring Expander
B. Upper Steel Rail
C. Lower Steel Rail
Second
Ring
Installation:
.To install the oil ring, first install the expander so that the expander ends butt together, and then install the upper and lower steel rails. The two steel rails are identical. There i s no "up" or "down" to the rails; they can be installed either way.
Oil Ring Expander Installation rn
.Turn the rings so that the opening in the top ring and oil ring o f each piston faces forward and the opening in the second ring faces the rear. The openings o f the oil ring steel rails must be slipped to both directions about 30" from the opening o f the expander (Fig. E74 ).
.Apply a little engine oil to the piston pins, and install the pistons and piston pins. The arrow on the top o f each piston must point towards the front.
.Install the top and second rings so that the correct side
(marked "T") faces up. The cross section o f the second ring i s larger than the top ring cross section.
A. Piston B. Arrow M a r k C. Front
@Fit a new piston pin snap ring into the side o f each piston, taking care to compress i t only enough to install i t and no more. Check that the other snap ring is in place.
D o n o t reuse snap rings, as removal weak- ens and deforms the snap ring. I t could fall o u t and score the cylinder wall.
.Install the cylinder block (Pg. 64).
A. 'T" M a r k
BREATHER COVER
Removal:
W i d e the clip out o f place, and remove the breather hose from the breather cover.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D 69
3. Tightening torque for the breather cover b o l l i s 0.60 kg-m (52 in-lbs).
A. Breather Hose
B. Breather Cover
C. Clamp
D. Bolt
*Remove the breather cover b o l t and cover
Installation Notes:
1 . Replace the breather cover 0 ring and cover bolt 0 ring with new ones i f deteriorated or damaged.
E N G I N E SPROCKET COVER
Removal :
*Remove the left footpeg bolt and left footpeg.
A. "0" Rings B. Breather Cover
2. The projection of the breather cover must be installed between the positioning pin and mount on the crank- case.
A. Starter Motor Cover
B. Engine Sprocket Cover
C. Shift Pedal
D. Left Footpeg
*Take out the shift pedal bolt, and remove the shift pedal.
*Kemove the starter motor cover bolts (2) and cover.
*Remove the engine sprocket cover bolts ( 4 ) , and pull the cover free from the crankcase.
Installation:
*Check that the knock pins (2) are in place, install the engine sprocket cover.
*Check that the starter motor cover gasket i s in place, and install the cover with the bolts (2) and flat washers
(2).
A. Breather Cover Projection
B. Mount
C. Pin
A. Starter Motor Cover B. Gasket
70 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D
.Mount the shift pedal so that i t s end matches the level o f the alternator cover lower right bolt.
Clutch Release
A. Lower Right Bolt B. Shift Pedal
.Mount the left footpeg with its bolt and lockwasher.
.Adjust the clutch (Pg. 22).
C L U T C H RELEASE
Removal:
.Remove the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 6 9 ) .
.Remove the cotter pin from the clutch release lever, and free the clutch inner cable tip from the lever and engine sprocket cover.
1. Locknut
2. Adjusting Screw
3. Circlip
4. Ball Retainer
5. Steel Ball
6 . Outer Release Gear
7. Screw
8. Inner Release Gear
9. Cotter Pin
10. Release Lever
11. Spring
Installation:
.Wash and clean the release balls (I and inner release gear with a high flash-point solvent. Dry and then lubricate them with grease;
.Fit the inner gear back into the outer release gear.
When the two gears are fully meshed, the clutch release lever and the outer release gear must be positioned as shown in Fig. E98. The machined side of the outer release gear must face upward.
A. Clutch Release Lever
B. Engine Sprocket Cover
C. Cotter Pin
D. Spring
.Remove the clutch release assembly mounting screws
(2), and remove the release assembly.
.Take out the circlip, and separate the outer release gear and the inner release gear.
A. Release Lever B. Outer Release Gear
.Install the circlip on the inner release gear.
*Fit the clutch release lever assembly back into the engine sprocket cover, apply a non-permanent locking agent to the screws, and tighten the screws. The clutch release lever must be positioned as shown in Fig. E96, when the gears are fully meshed.
.Run the clutch cable i n t o the engine sprocket cover and spring, and fit the tip o f the inner cable into the clutch release lever.
.Using a new cotter pin, secure the cable tip to the release lever.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED 71
.Install the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
*Adjust the clutch (Pg. 22).
ENGINE SPROCKET
Removal
:
.Stand the motorcycle up on i t s center stand.
C h e c k that the transmission i s i n neutral.
*Remove the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
.Remove the cdtter pin, and loosen t h e rear axle nut.
A. Engine Sprocket Holding Plate
B. Engine Sprocket
C. Bolts
Installation:
.Mount the engine sprocket while meshed with the drive chain.
.Install the engine sprocket holding plate, and then tighten the holding plate bolts in-lbs) o f torque.
(2) t o 1.0 kg-m (87
*Install the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
.Adjust the drive chain (Pg. 28).
A. Axle Nut B. Chain Adjusting Bolt
.Loosen the nuts at the torque link.
EXTERNAL SHIFT MECHANISM
Removal
:
.Remove the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
-
3 \ " r
).
.Disconnect the neutral switch lead and pull o u t the clutch push rod.
A. Torque Link B. Nuts
.Loosen the left and right chain adjusting bolt locknuts, and then back out the chain adjusting bolts. Kick the wheel forward t o give the chain plenty o f play.
.Remove the engine sprocket holding plate bolts (2), and remove the plate and engine sprocket.
A. External Shift Mechanism Cover
B. Clutch Push Rod
C. Neutral Switch
D. Chain Guard
72 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D
*Remove the chain guard.
*Remove the external shift mechanism cover screws ( 7 ) , and pull o f f the external shift mechanism cover and gasket.
*Move the shift arm and overshift limiter out of their positions on the end o f the shift drum, and pull out the external shift mechanism.
NOTE: Do not pull the shift rod more than 50 mm out o f the crankcase, or the shift torks inside the crdnkcdse will fall to the bottom of the oil pan, requiring removal o f the crankcase to install them.
A. Return Spring Bolt
*Check that the Ireturn spring and pawl spring are properly fitted on the mechanism, install the external shift mechanism, and place the shift arm and overshift limiter on the shift drum pins.
A. Overshift Limiter
B. Shift Arm
C. Shift Rod
D. Shift Mechanism
Installation:
* I f the shift drum pins were removed, make sure the one long pin i s assembled in the position shown. I f this pin i s assembled in the wrong position, the neutral indicator light will not light when the gears are in neutral.
A. Pawl Spring
B. Return Spring
C. Overshift Limiter
D . Shift Arm
*Check that the two knock pins (2) are in place.
*Apply a high temperature grease to the lips of the clutch push rod oil seal and the output shaft collar oil seal.
*Insert the shift shaft oil seal guide (special tool) in the external shift mechanism cover oil seal, install the cover and gasket, and then tighten the screws (7). The left upper screw has a lead clamp.
A. Long Pin B. Shift Drum C. Hole
*Check that the external shift mechanism return spring b o l t i s not loose. I f i t i s loose, remove it, apply a non- permanent locking agent to the threads, and tighten i t t o 2.5 kg-m (1 8.0 ft-lbs) o f torque.
A. External Shift Mechanism Cover
B. Shift Shaft Oil Seal Guide (57001-264)
.Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the bolts (3), and install the chain guard.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D 73
.Fit the lead back on the switch.
.Install the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
STARTER MOTOR
Removal
:
.Remove the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
.Remove the starter motor retaining bolts (2).
A. Lead Clamp
B. Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
.Fit the neutral switch lead back on the switch.
.Apply molybdenum disulfide engine assembly grease to the clutch push rod, and install the rod.
.Install the engine sprocket (Pg. 71 ).
.Install the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
.Adjust the drive chain (Pg. 28).
A. Starter Motor B. Retaining Bolts
.Pull o f f the starter motor.
.Remove the starter motor terminal n u t and lockwasher, and take the lead o f f the starter motor.
N E U T R A L SWITCH
Removal:
.Remove the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
.Pull the neutral switch lead o f f the switch.
A. Neutral Switch
.Unscrew the neutral switch and gasket.
Installation:
.Install the neutral switch and gasket tightening it to
1.5 kg-m ( 1 1.0 ft-lbs) o f torque.
A. Starter Motor
B. Terminal N u t
C. Lead
Installation:
.Replace the 0 i s deteriorated or damaged, and apply a little oil to it.
.Reconnect the motor lead onto the terminal with i t s nut and lockwasher, and tighten the nut.
.Clean the starter motor lugs and crankcase where the starter motor i s grounded.
74 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D
A.
Starter Motor
6. Starter Motor Lugs
.Place the starter motor back into position fitting the shaft through the idle gear.
.Tighten the starter motor retaining bolts (2).
.Install the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
Disassembly:
.Remove the screws
18
(2) and lockwashers
19
(2), and remove the end covers
.
*Remove the shims 13', toothed washer a , and armature
TZ from the shaft side.
.Remove the screw which connects the brush lead to the field coil lead T , and remove the brush plate
3 . ring
The screw has a lockwasher 3 . There i s an 0
5 at the brush side o f the housing.
NOTE: The yoke assembly 8 i s not meant to be dis- assembled.
(rn)
1. End Cover
2. 0
3. Lockwasher
4. Screw
5. Brush Plate
6. Brush
7. Field Coil Lead
8. Yoke Assembly
9. Starter Motor Lead
10. Terminal Cover
11. Shims
12. Armature
13. Shims
14. Toothed Washer
15.
16. End Cover
17.
18.
19.
Scrcw
Lockwasher
76 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D
oRcmovc the alternator stator Allen bolts (3), and pull o u t thc alternator stator.
Installation:
.Install the grommet, and fit the stator i n t o place. Use a non-permanent locking agent o n each Allen bolt, and tighten the bolts to 1.0 kg-m (87 in-lbs) o f torque.
.Install the wiring clamp with its screws (2) and lock- washers (2).
.Check that the knock pins (2) are i n place, install the alternator cover and a new gasket, and tighten its screws (4).
.Connect the alternator wiring yellow leads.
.Install the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
A. Rotor Puller (57001-254 or 57001-1099)
A L T E R N A T O R ROTOR
Removal:
.Remove the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
.Disconnect the alternator wiring yellow leads (Fig.
E 1 1 5).
.Remove the alternator cover screws (4)) and pull o f f the alternator cover and gasket.
@Hold the alternator rotor steady w i t h the r o t o r holder
(special tool), and remove the r o t o r bolt.
Installation:
.Using a high flash-point solvent, clean o f f any oil or dirt that may be o n the crankshaft taper or rotor hub, and place the rotor back on the crankshaft.
.Tighten the rotor b o l t t o 7.0 kg-m (51.0 ft-lbs) o f torque while holding the alternator rotor steady with the r o t o r holder (special tool).
.Check that the knock pins (2) are in place, install the alternator cover using a new gasket, and tighten its screws (4).
.Connect the alternator wiring yellow leads.
.Install the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
CONTACT BREAKERS
Removal (each contact breaker)
:
.Remove the contact breaker cover and gasket.
.Loosen the contact breaker terminal nut, and remove the t w o leads.
A. Rotor Holder (57001-308) B. Rotor
.Using the special tool t o hold the r o t o r steady, remove the rotor with the rotor puller (special tool).
If the rotor is difficult to remove and a hammer is used, turn the bar with hand tapping the head of the puller shaft with a hammer.
Do not attempt to strike the bar or the alternator rotor itself. Striking the bar or the rotor can cause the bend- ing or the magnets to lose their magnetism.
A. Contact Breaker
B. Contact Breaker Base Screws
C. Terminal Nut
D. Green Lead
E. Black Lead
.Remove the contact breaker base screws (2). Each screw has a flat washer and lockwasher.
Installation Notes:
1. The sequence o f installation on the contact breaker bolt is: bolt 14
, flat washer 13 , capacitor lead 6
, contact breaker lead 1 2 , spring 1 1
, large insulator 5 ) , small insulator 4 (in contact breaker hole), large in- sulator 9 ,
8
, lockwasher 7
, and nut I
.
The green contact breaker lead must be connected to the right contact breaker (#2 and #3), and black lead to the left one (#1 and #4).
Contact Breaker
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D 77
CAPACITORS
Removal:
*Remove the contact breaker cover and gasket.
*Loosen each contact breaker nut, and remove the capacitor lead to complete capacitor removal.
*Remove the capacitor screw. The screw has a flat and loc kwasher.
lnstallation Note:
*The sequence o f installation on the contact breaker b o l t is: bolt, flat washer, capacitor lead, contact breaker lead, spring, large insulator, small insulator (in contact breaker hole), large insulator, flat washer, lockwasher, and nut (Fig. E l 2 1 ).
A. Capacitor Lead
B. Capacitor Screw
C. Capacitors
1. Nut
2. Breaker Base
3. Mounting Plate
1
/ 1 1
10. ~ r e a k e r Hole
'?
13
14 1 1 Spring
12. Contact Brcaker
Lead
13. Flat Washer
14. Bolt
2. Fit the contact breaker base projection into the hole i n the mounting plate.
T I M I N G A D V A N C E R
Removal
:
*Remove the contact breaker cover and gasket.
*Take out the contact breaker mounting plate screws, lockwashers, and flat washers (3 ea), and remove the plate.
A. Projection B. Hole
3. After installation, adjust the ignition timing (Pg. 12).
A. Contact Breaker Mounting Plate
B. Plate Screws
C. Crankshaft Rotation Nut
D. Advancer Mounting Bolt
78
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED
.With a 17 m m wrench on the crankshaft rotation nut to keep the shaft from turning, remove the advancer mounting bolt, and take o f f the rotation n u t and the timing advancer.
Assembly Notes:
1. Wipe the advancer clean, and fill the groove in the advancer cam with grease.
Installation:
.Fit the timing advancer onto the crankshaft, matching i t s notch with the pin in the end o f the crankshaft, and install the crankshaft rotation nut and advancer mounting bolt. The notches i n the n u t fit the projec- tions on the timing advancer. Tighten the bolt t o 2.5 kg-m (1 8.0 ft-lbs) o f torque.
A. Advancer Cam B. Grease
2. When installing the cam, align the mark on the cam with the small hole in the advancer body.
A. Timing Advancer B. Notch C. Pin
.Mount the contact breaker mounting plate, and tighten i t s screws (3) loosely. Each screw has a lockwasher and flat washer.
.Adjust the ignition timing (Pg. 12).
Disassembly :
*Pull o f f the cam by turning i t clockwise.
A. Advancer Body
B. Small Hole
C. Cam
D. Mark
A. Cam B. Weight C. "C" Ring
.Remove the C rings (2), washers (4)) and weights (2).
.Remove the thrust washer from each weight shaft.
CLUTCH
Removal
:
*With the motorcycle on its center stand, place an oil pan beneath the engine, and remove the engine drain plug and washer to drain out the oil.
.After the oil has drained, tighten the drain plug to
3.8 kg-m (27 ft-lbs) o f torque.
.Remove the screws ( 9 ) ) and pull o f f the clutch cover and gasket.
.Remove the clutch spring bolts ~5 (5), washers and springs il) (5).
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED
79
.Remove the friction plates 7 (7) and steel plates a
(6).
.Hold the clutch hub from turning using a clutch holder
(special tool), and remove the clutch hub locknut lo and lockwasher 3 .
A. Clutch Spring Bolt
B. Washer
C. Spring Plate
.Pull o f f the spring plate pusher IL
, pull out the spring plate
, and t i l t the motorcycle so that the steel ball Ll will fall out.
Clutch
A. Clutch Holder (57001-305) B. Clutch H u b
<rn)
1. Spacer
2. Sleeve
3. Needle Bearing
4. Clutch Housing
5. Thrust Washer
6. Clutch Hub
7. Friction Plate
8. Steel Plate
9. Lockwasher
10. Locknut
1 1. Steel Ball
12. Spring Plate Pusher
13. Spring Plate
14. Clutch Spring
15. Bolt
16. Washer
80 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D
*Pull o f f the clutch hub, clutch housing, needle bearing, drive shaft sleeve, and spacer. There i s a thrust washer between the clutch hub and clutch housing.
Installation:
*Put the clutch housing spacer on the drive shaft. The spacer must be installed with i t s flat side facing toward the end o f the shaft.
*Install the friction plates (7) and steel plates (6), start- ing with a friction plate and alternating them.
I f new dry steel plates and friction plates are installed, apply engine oil on the sur- faces of each plate to avoid clutch plate seizure.
*Insert the clutch steel ball, and spring plate pusher, applying a thin coat o f a molybdenum disulfide cngine assem bl y grease t o their surfaces.
a
C. Grease. A. Steel Ball
B. Spring Plate Pusher
A. Drive Shaft B. Clutch Housing Spacer housing.
*Put on the thrust washer, clutch hub, and lockwasher.
Replace the clutch hub locknut with a new one, screw on the locknut and tighten it to 13.5 kg-m (98 ft-lbs) o f torque, while holding the hub stationary with the clutch holder (special tool). a and the clutch hub locknut must be in- stalled with the marked side, "OUT SIDE", facing out.
I f this washer i s installed backwards, the hub locknut might loosen during operation. This causes clutch dis- engagement resulting in loss of motorcycle control.
*Install the spring plate, springs, washers, and spring bolts (5 ea). Cross tighten the bolts evenly to 0.90 kg-m (78 in-lbs) o f torque.
NOTE: The spring plate can be installed on the clutch hub in any position, so thcre is no mark on either the spring plate or the clutch hub.
*Fit a new clutch cover gasket, and install the clutch cover. Tighten the screws (9) firmly. Be sure to include the contact breaker lead clamps (2) with their clutch cover screws.
A. Clutch Cover B. Clamps
*Fit the contact breaker wiring with the wiring clamps under the clutch cover.
*Fill the engine with oil, check the oil level (Pg. 24 ), and add more i f necessary.
*Adjust the clutch (Pg. 22).
A. Lockwasher
* -
OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
Removal:
.Remove the bolt and lockwasher, and free the lead from the oil pressure switch.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED 81
Q
(m)
A. Element
B. Flat Washer
C. Spring
D. Element Fence
E. Filter Cover
F. Mounting Bolt
G. "0" Rings
A. Oil Pressure Switch
-
.To remove the bypass valve steel ball, drive the pin and drop out the spring and steel ball from mounting bolt.
*Remove the oil pressure switch.
Installation Note:
.Tighten the oil pressure switch t o ft-lbs) of torque.
1.5 kg-m (11.0
OIL FILTER, BYPASS VALVE
Removal:
*With the motorcycle up on i t s center stand, place an oil pan beneath the engine, and remove the oil filter mounting bolt and oil filter.
A. Oil Filter Mounting Bolt
.Holding the element steady, turn the mounting bolt to work the element free.
*Remove the flat washer, spring, and element fence, and pull the filter cover o f f the bolt.
A. Mounting Bolt
B. Steel Ball
C. Spring
D. Pin
Installation:
Using damaged or deteriorated 0 rings instead of replacing them with new ones will cause oil leaks and eventually result i n little or no oil left i n the engine. This will cause serious engine damage. The oil in the oil filter housing is pressurized by the engine oil pump, so these 0 rings must be in- spected with special care. Look for discoloration
(indicating the rubber has deteriorated), hardening (the sides which face the mating surfaces are flattened), scoring, or other damage.
.Fit the steel ball and spring i n t o the mounting bolt, and drive in the pin while pressing the spring.
.Apply a little engine oil t o the mounting bolt, f i t the filter cover and element fence on the bolt, and install the spring and flat washer.
.Apply a little engine oil to the oil filter grommets on the both sides of the element, and holding the filter steady, turn the filter mounting b o l t t o work the element i n t o place. Be careful that the element grommets do not slip out of place.
82 DISASSEMBLY--ENGINE I N S T A L L E D
A. Mounting Bolt B. Grommet C. Turn.
.Install the oil filter, dnd tighten its mounting bolt to
2.0 kg-m (14.5 ft-lbs) of torque.
.Check the oil level (Pg. 24), and add more i f necessary.
A. Oil Pressure Relief Valve 6. Oil Pan
Installation Notes:
1. Use a non-permanent locking dgcnt on the valvc thrend, and tighten the valvc to 1.5 kg-m ( 1 1.0 ft-Ibs) o f torquc.
2. Replace the oil passage 0 rings (3) and oil pan gasket with ncw ones. Thc flat sidc o f the 0 to the crankcase.
I/
O I L
PRESSURE R E L I E F V A L V E
Removal:
.With the motorcycle on its center stand, place an oil pan beneath the engine, and remove the engine oil drain plug and oil filter mounting bolt to drain out the oil.
A. Oil Passage "0" B. Oil Pan Gasket
A. Engine Drain Plug
B. Oil Filter Mounting Bolt
C. Oil Pan
D. Oil Pressure Switch Lead
.After the oil has drained out, install the drain plug.
.Remove the mufflers (Pg. 56).
@Remove the bolt and lockwasher, and free the lead from the oil pressure switch.
@Remove the oil pan bolts (13), and remove the oil pan, gasket, and oil passage 0 rings (3).
.Unscrew the oil pressure relief valve from the oil pan.
"0" Ring B. Flat Side
Tighten the oil pan bolts (1 3) to 1 .0 of torque, and the engine drain plug to 3.8 kg-m
(27 ft-lbs) o f torque.
I f the oil pressure switch was removed, tighten i t to
1.5 kg-m (1 1.0 ft-lbs) o f torque.
ENGINE O I L PUMP
Removal :
@With the motorcycle on its center stand, place an oil pan beneath the engine, and remove the engine oil drain plug and oil filter to drain out the oil.
@After the oil has drained out, install the drain plug and tighten i t to 3.8 kg-m (27 ft-lbs) o f torquc.
@Remove the mufflers (Pg. 56).
@Remove the clutch (Pg. 78).
*Remove the oil pan bolts (1 3), and remove the oil pan gasket, and oil passage 0 rings (3).
@Remove the mounting bolt and screws (2), and pull o f f the oil pump. There are two knock pins on the crankcase.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED 83
Installation Notes:
1. Fill the oil pump with engine oil for initial lubrica- tion.
2. Check to see that the knock pins (2) arc in placc.
A. Mounting Bolt
B. Mounting Screws
Oil Pump
C. Oil Pump
A. Knock Pins
3. Be sure the oil pump gear and pump drive gear at the secondary shaft mesh properly.
4. Install the bearing stop with the mounting screws (2).
5. Stake each oil pump screw head with a punch to prevent loosening.
6. Replace the oil passage 0 rings and oil pan gasket with ncw ones (Figs. El43 and E144).
4
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED
Tighten the oil pan bolts (1 3) to 1 .O kg-m (87 in-lbs) o f torque.
Install the oil filter (Pg. 81 ).
Install the clutch (Pg. 80).
Disassembly:
@Remove the circlip 8 and washer 71 on the pump shaft end.
@Remove the oil pump cover screws I S ( 3 ) , and take o f f the oil pump cover I3 and gasket 1 2 .
@Take out the rotors B , ii_
.
@Take out the pin 2
, and pull o f f the oil pump gear
! 3
.
@Slide o f f the pump gear, and take out the pin 2 from the shaft.
Assembly Notes:
1. Replace the gasket with a new one.
2. After completing the oil pump assembly, check that the rotor shaft and rotor turn smoothly.
A, Rotor Holder (57001-308)
6. Secondary Shaft Nut
C. Alternator Rotor
@Tap the secondary shaft from the left side o f the crankcase until the right bearing comes out of place.
There is a collar in the left bearing.
SECONDARY SHAFT,
STARTER MOTOR CLUTCH
Removal:
@Remove the mufflers (Pg. 56).
@Remove the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
@Remove the clutch (Pg. 78).
@Remove the oil pump (Pg. 83).
@Remove the screws (2), and pull o f f the secondary shaft bearing cap.
A. Secondary Shaft 6 . Collar C. Tap
@Holding the secondary sprocket and starter motor clutch assembly, pull o u t the secondary shaft.
A. Secondary Shaft Bearing Cap 6. Screws
@Remove the alternator cover.
@Using a rotor holder (special tool) to hold the alter- nator rotor, remove the secondary shaft nut.
A. Secondary Shaft
6. Secondary Sprocket
C. Starter Motor Clutch Assembly
D. Primary Chain
@Slip the secondary sprocket and starter motor clutch assembly from the primary chain, and take them out.
*Remove the secondary shaft gear circip. Using the bearing puller and adapter (special tools), pull the secondary shaft gear o f f the shaft.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D 85
*Put the thrust washer on the secondary shaft, and put the secondary shaft into the secondary sprocket and starter motor clutch assembly, fitting their splines.
A. Bearing Puller (57001-135)
B. Adapter (57001-317)
C. Secondary Shaft Gear
Installation:
@Check that the starter clutch rollers (3) are in place.
A. Starter Clutch Assembly
B. Secondary Shaft
C. Thrust Washer
*Install the left bearing collar.
.Using the bearing driver (special tool), tap the second- ary shaft bearing into the crankcase with the second- ary shaft until the bearing stops at the bottom o f the crankcase bearing hole.
A. Starter Clutch B. Rollers
.Put the thrust washer, starter motor clutch, and needle bearing into the secondary sprocket and starter motor clutch assembly.
.Fit the primary chain on the secondary sprocket.
A. Bearing Driver (57001-297)
B. Secondary Shaft Bearing
*Put the collar on the secondary shaft.
A. Secondary Sprocket B. Primary Chain A. Collar B. Secondary Shaft
86
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE INSTALLED
*Apply a little oil on the secondary shaft and between the secondary shaft gear and gear pusher (special tool).
Using the rotor holder (special tool) to keep the crank- shaft and secondary shaft from turning, push the sec- ondary shaft gear on the shaft by rotating the gear pusher (special tool).
*Install the circlip on the secondary shaft.
*Install the oil pump, oil pan, and oil filter according to the oil pump installation (Pg. 84).
*Check that the left bearing collar i s in place, and tighten the secondary shaft n u t to 6.0 kg-m (43 ft-lbs) o f torque by holding the alternator rotor with the rotor holder (special tool).
A. Gear Pusher (57001-319)
Secondary Shaft, Starter Motor Clutch
A. Collar
1. Screw
2. Lead Clamp
3. Bearing Cap
4.
5. Nut
6. Collar
7. Ball Bearing
8. Roller
9. Spring Cap
10. Spring
11. Circlip
12. Idle Gear Shaft
13. Starter Motor Idle Gear
14. Circlip
15. Secondary Sprocket
16.
17.
Rubber Damper
Inner Coupling
18.
19.
Starter Motor Clutch
Allen Bolt
20.
21.
Thrust Washer
Starter Clutch Gear
22. Secondary Shaft
23. Ball Bearing
24. Bearing Stop
25. Collar
26. Screw
27. Secondary Shaft Gear
28. Circlip
.Install the secondary shatt bearing cap, and tighten its screws (2). The upper screw has a wiring clamp.
.Install the alternator cover.
.Install the clutch (Pg. 80).
.Install the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
.Install the mufflers (Pg. 57).
.Fill the engine with oil and check the oil level (Pg. 24).
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L L E D 87
Disassembly:
.Pull off the starter clutch gear 2 1 and flat washer 2 0 .
.Remove the rollers 8
, springs 10
, and spring caps 9
(3 ea) from the starter motor clutch.
.Remove the circlip 14 sprocket
, and pull o f f the secondary
.
There are rubber dampers
16
(8).
.Holding the secondary shaft coupling steady, remove the Allen bolts 19 (3) to separate the coupling and starter motor clutch.
.Remove the right ball bearing 23 using the same special tool (PIN: 57001-135) used for the secondary gear removal.
.Using the bearing driver dnd bearing driver holder
(special tools), tap the left ball bearing 7 o f f the crankcase.
A. Driver (57001-382)
B. Ball Bearing
C. Secondary Shaft
5. Install the left ball bearing using the same special tools (PIN: 57001-289, 57001-139) until it is 10.7 -
11.3 m m deeper than the crankcase surface.
Ball Bearing Installation
(rn]
Crankcase
Inner Surface
11
Ball Bearing
A. Bearing Driver (57001-289)
B. Bearing Driver Holder (57001-139)
Assembly Notes:
1. Check the rubber dampers (8), and replace them with new ones i f damaged.
2. Apply a little oil on the rubber dampers (8) to assemble the secondary sprocket and coupling.
3. Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the starter clutch Allen bolts (3), and tighten the bolts t o 3.5 kg-m (25 ft-lbs) o f torque.
4. Install the right ball bearing using the transmission circlip driver (special tool).
STARTER M O T O R I D L E GEAR
Removal:
.Remove the secondary shaft and starter motor clutch
(Pg. 84).
.Remove the circlip, pull o f f the shaft, and remove the idle gear.
88 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE I N S T A L i E D
A. Idle Gear
B. Circlip
C. Shaft
D. Left Side
Installation Note:
*The idle gear must be installed so that the smaller gear side ooints to the left.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE R E M O V E D 89
Disassembly-Engine Removed
Table of Contents
FLOW CHARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
ENGINE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
CRANKCASE SPLIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
TRANSMISSION
ShiftDrum
Driveshaft
Outputshaft
CRANKSHAFT. CAMSHAFT CHAIN. PRIMARY CHAIN . . . . . . . . . 109
CONNECTING RODS
FLOW C H A R T
Engine Removal
(D
The following charts are intended to be aids to proper removal. Select the
O component you wish t o remove and follow the arrows t o that point on the chart.
Motorcycle LT'
NOTE: Parts in the broken line are required to loosen its mounting bolts or screws, but not necessary i t s complete removal.
Baffle
Plate v
Air
Cleaner
Element
Ca P r
I
I
I
I
I
----
Air
I
Cleaner
,
I
Housing I
I
Mounting,
'
Panel
1
I
Cover-,
I
Brackets
1 w
Breaker
Point
Starter
Motor
Ground on the
I
Remove the Engine
I
FLOW CHART
Disassembly - Engine Removed
Cylinder Camshaft
Head Chain
Cover Tensioner
I I
Engine 7
I
I
Alternator cover] Secondary
Shaft
Bearing i cap
I
I
Clutch Cover
$
~ 7 8
I clutch plates j
I
P 81
[ o i l ~ i l t e r
I
*
Contact
Breaker
Cover
*
External
Shift
Mechanism
Alternator
Secondary
1 I
Clutch Hub
I I
Oil Pan r""l I
Contact
Breaker
Mounting
Plate s i
P84
Oil Pump
' 1
Timing
External
Shift
Secondary Shaft, Gear
Mechanism t
P 96
P 109
I
Crankshaft
P 1 0 9 t P 1 0 9 i ~ l l 0 t
Lower Crankcase Half
\pipo
Forks l p l ~ o ~ Drum
Fio6%
Shaft Shaft
Primary
Chain i
Camshaft
Chain
Connecting
Rods NOTES: 1. Action that has been already done in the engine removal procedure is omitted. Action that i s not necessarily required for engine disassembly off the motorcycle i s also omitted.
2. Action with a mark (*) requires special tool(s) for removal, installation, disassembly, or assembly.
92 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE R E M O V E D
E N G I N E R E M O V A L
Removal:
.With the motorcycle u p on its center stand, place an oil pan beneath the engine, and remove the engine drain plug and oil filter t o drain o u t the oil.
A. Starter Relay
B. Starter Motor Lead
C. Rubber Cap
D. Relay Terminal
.Remove the bolts (2) and baffle plate.
A. Engine Drain Plug
.After draining the oil, replace the drain plug with its aluminum gasket, tighten the plug t o 3.8 kg-m (27 ft-lbs) o f torque, and install the oil filter tightening its b o l t t o 2.0 kg-m (1 4.5 ft-lbs) o f torque.
.Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
.Take o f f the right and left side covers.
.Remove the ignition coils (Pg. 57).
.Remove the screw and flat washer, and open the electrical panel cover. A. Baffle Plate B. Air Cleaner Element Cap the air cleaner element cap.
.Remove the air cleaner housing mounting bracket bolts, lockwashers, and flat washers f r o m b o t h sides of the battery housing. Remove the mounting brackets.
A. Electrical Panel Cover B. Screw
.Slide the rubber cap out o f place, remove the n u t and lockwasher, and free the stdrter m o t o r lead f r o m the starter relay terminal.
A. Left Side
B. Right Side
C. Mounting Bracket
*Remove the carburetors (Pg. 49).
.Slide the clip out o f place, and remove the breather hose from the breather cover.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE R E M O V E D 93
A. Breather Hose B. Breather Cover
.Remove the air cleaner housing.
.Remove the left footpeg bolt and lockwasher, and remove the footpeg.
.Check to see that the transmission i s in neutral, then take out the shift pedal bolt, and remove the shift pedal.
A. Knock Pins B. Clutch Push Rod
.Take the clutch push rod o f f the crankcase.
.Disconnect the neutral switch lead from the switch and the oil pressure switch lead from the switch, and disconnect the alternator yellow leads. Free the lead from the engine.
A. Alternator Yellow Leads
B. Neutral Switch
C. Oil Pressure Switch
*Remove the mufflers (Pg. 56).
.Remove the rear brdke light switch spring.
.Disconnect the rear brake light switch leads (blue and brown).
A. Shift Pedal B. Starter Motor Cover
.Remove the bolts (2) and flat washers (2), and remove the starter motor cover.
*Remove the clutch cable clamp from the frame.
.Remove the engine sprocket cover bolts (4), and pull the cover free from the crankcase.
.Loosen the knurled locknut on the clutch lever holder, and screw in the adjuster.
.Line up the slots in the clutch lever, locknut, and adjuster and then free the cable from the lever.
.Free the clutch cable and engine sprocket cover from the frame.
.Pull out the engine sprocket cover knock pins (2), if they are still in the engine.
NOTE: This prevents;he knock pin from catching the engine mounting bracket when the engine i s lifted up.
A. Rear Brake Light Switch Leads
B. Rear Brake Light Switch
94 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE REMOVED
.Remove the bolt and lockwasher, and remove the battery negative ground lead from the engine.
A. Battery Negative Ground Lead
*Free the contact breaker point leads (black and green) from the frame.
.Remove the rear master cylinder mounting bolts (2).
.Loosen the brake pedal adjusting bolt locknut, and back o u t the adjusting bolt until the pedal i s held down o u t o f the way.
.Remove the bolt and lockwasher, and remove the right footpeg.
.Unscrew the tachometer cable from the cylinder head and pull o f f the cable from the cylinder head.
.Loosen the torque link nuts, rear axle nut, and chain adjusting bolt locknuts, and then turn out the chain adjusting bolts i n order to give the chain plenty o f play.
Kick the wheel forward until the chain is slack. This will facilitate removal o f the engine sprocket,
A. Engine Sprocket
B. Holding Plate
C. Plate Bolts
*Remove the left and right reflectors. Each o f them has a rubber damper.
.jack or lever the engine up slightly to take the weight o f f the mounting bolts.
.Remove the engine mounting bolt nuts I$!, @,
.
A. Torque Link Nuts
B. Rear Axle
C. Adjusting Bolt
D. Locknut
.Remove the engine sprocket holding plate bolts (2), and remove the holding plate and engine sprocket.
1. Front Upper Left Mounting Bolt
2. Front Upper Right Mounting Bolt
3. Front Lower Left Mounting Bolt
4. Front Lower Right Mounting Bolt
5. Rear Upper Mounting Bolt
6. Rear Upper Mounting Bolt Nut
7. Rear Lower Mounting Bolt
8. Rear Lower Mounting Bolt Nut
9. Front Upper Right Bracket Bolts
10. Rear Upper Left Bracket Bolts
11. Rear Upper Right Bracket Bolts
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE R E M O V E D 95
.Remove the engine mounting bolts
,
2
, 9 , ' & .
.Remove the front upper mounting bracket bolts'9 , nuts, and lockwashers, and remove the bracket.
.Remove the rear upper mounting bracket bolts I 1 and lockwashers, and remove the bracket with the rear brake light switch.
.Pull out the engine mounting bolts 5
,
7
.
Be careful n o t to damage the threads upon removal. The rear upper mounting bolt has t w o spacers.
.Make sure that the following cables and leads are free, and properly positioned on the engine and frame so that they will not get damaged during engine removal: starter lead, clutch cable, tachometer cable, contact breaker point leads, battery negative ground lead, alternator wiring, neutral and oil pressure switch leads, and throttle cables.
.Lift the engine straight up keeping i t level, then move it to the right slightly so the rear and front o f the engine slips over the lower right rear and the lower right front engine mounts.
.Lift up the right side so that the oil pan at the bottom o f the engine clears the frame, and pull the engine out t o the right side.
A. Engine Sprocket B. Holding Plate
Installation:
@Place the engine into the frame the reverse o f how i t was removed.
.Install the rear upper and the front upper mounting brackets, and tighten four bracket bolts 9
,
$1) loosely.
The rear two bolts and front t w o nuts have iockwashers.
.Lifting the engine as necessary so that the mounting b o l t threads do not get damaged, insert the six engine mounting bolts and tighten them loosely. The rear upper mounting bolt 5 has t w o spacers.
.Install the push rod, applying a thin coat o f a molyb- denum disulfide engine assembly grease t o its surface.
*Connect the alternator leads.
@Connect the neutral switch light green lead to the switch terminal and the oil pressure blue/red lead to the switch terminal.
.Fit the starter lead to the starter relay terminal. After tightening the nut, slide the rubber cap back o n t o the relay terminal.
Table F1 Engine Mounting Bolt Length and Torque
Bolt Length Torque
Left 72 m m Front Upper
2
MountingBolts
right,^ 1 6 2 m m g4 mm teftft 3
I Front Lower
Mounting Bolts Right 4,
I
Rear Uuuer Mounting Bolt 15
1
255 m m
/
4 . 0 kg-m
(29 ft-lbs)
Rear Lower Mounting Bolt 9 179 m m
Front Upper Right
Bracket Bolts 9,
I
Rear Upper
Bracket Bolts
Upper
63 m m
Lower 59 m m 2.4 kg-m 1
Left I0
1
40 mm
I
(I 7.5 ft-lbs)l
Right
.Tighten four bracket bolts and six engine mounting bolts to specified torque as shown in Table.
.Fit the drive chain back on the engine sprocket, and install the engine sprocket with the drive chain.
.Install the engine sprocket holding plate, and tighten the holding plate bolts (2) to 1 .O kg-m (87 in-lbs) o f torque.
A. Starter Relay
B. Starter Motor Lead
C. Rubber Cap
D. Electrical Panel Cover
.Tighten the electrical panel cover screw and flat washer.
.Run the clutch cable between the left down tube and the lower part o f the engine, and run the upper end o f the cable between the left front f o r k and head pipe.
.Fit the tip o f the cable back into the clutch lever.
.Fasten the clutch cable to the frame down tube w i t h the clamp.
.Fit the engine sprocket cover knock pins (2).
@Install the engine sprocket cover, starter motor cover, shift pedal, and left footpeg (Pg. 69).
.Install the right footpeg with i t s b o l t and lockwasher.
.Turn in the rear brake pedal adjusting b o l t t o install the rear brake master cylinder.
.Tighten the master cylinder mounting bolts.
.Check the harness o f the contact breaker point leads i s clamped.
96 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE R E M O V E D
*Push the seat bdck down.
.Fit the right and left side covers.
.Install the left dnd right reflectors. Each o f them has d rubber damper.
*Install the rear brake light switch spring.
.Adjust the rear brake pedal (Pg. 29).
.Adjust the rear brake light switch (Pg. 3 0 ) .
*Fill the engine with oil, check the level (Pg. 24), and add more i f necessary.
*Adjust the clutch (Pg. 22).
*Adjust the throttle cdbles (Pg. 18).
.Adjust the ignition timing (Pg. 12).
A. Contact Breaker Leads B. Clamps
*Connect the rear brdkc light switch iedds (blue and brown).
.Install the battery negative ground lead on the engine right side tightening its bolt. The b o l t has a lock- washer.
*Adjust the drive chain (Pg. 28).
.Install the air cledner housing, and put the mounting brackets i n t o both sides o f the housing. Install the bracket bolts, lockwashers, and tlat washers with finger tight. The brdcket bolts are tightened after carburetor installation.
CRANKCASE SPLIT
Disassembly:
.Remove the engine (Pg. 92).
.Set the engine on d clean surface or, preterably, into a disdssembly dpparatus with some means o f holding the engine steddy while pdrts are being removed.
NOTE: If the engine i s t o be set o n t o the engine stand
(specid1 t o o l ) , t w o o f the upper crankcase half bolts
(1 3 ) shown in Fig. F20 must be removed before posi- tioning the engine.
A . Air Clea,ner Housing B. Mounting Bracket
*Check that the air cleaner element i s fitted in the cor- rect position ds shown in Fig. E l 2.
*Install the air cleaner element cap, and tighten the screws and flat washers.
*Install the baffle plate with its bolts. Each b o l t hds a lockwasher dnd flat washer.
.Fit the breather hose o n t o the b~.eather cover, slide back the clip.
*Put o n the cdrburetor holder clamp (4).
*Install the carburetors (Pg. 50).
*Fix the air cleaner housing t o battery housing with the left and right side bracket bolts.
.Install the ignition coils (Pg. 57), and connect the contact breaker point leads (green and brake).
I n s t a l l the tachometer cable lower end o n t o thecylinder head.
*Install the mufflers (Pg. 57).
.Install the fuel tank (47).
A. Remove the bolts.
A. Engine Stand (57001-900)
*Remove the starter m o t o r retaining bolts ( 2 ) , and pull o f f the starter motor.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE R E M O V E D 97
A. Starter Motor B. Retaining Bolts
.Remove the bolts (3) and drive chain guard.
A. Bearing Cap B. Wiring Clamp
.Remove the alternator cover screws (4), and pull o f f the alternator cover and gasket. Thcre are two knock pins.
.Holding the alternator rotor steady with the rotor holder (special tool), and remove the secondary shaft nut.
A. Drive Chain Guard
B. External Shift Mechanism Cover
C. Clamp
.Remove the external shift mechanism cover screws (7), and pull off the external shift mechanism cover and gasket. There are two knock pins. One of the cover screws has a cable clamp.
.Move the shift arm and overshift limiter out o f their positions on the end of the shift drum, and pull out the external shift mechanism.
A. Rotor Holder (57001-308)
B. Secondary Shaft Nut
C. Rotor Bolt
.Remove the alternator rotor according to the following two steps only i f the crankshaft i s to be removed.
OHold the alternator rotor steady with the rotor holder
, 1 ,
OUsing the special tool to hold the rotor steady, remove the rotor with the rotor puller (special tool).
A. Shift Arm
B. Overshift Limiter
C. Shift Drum
.Remove the screws ( 2 ) , and pull o f f the secondary shaft bearing cap. The upper screw has a wiring clamp.
A. Rotor Puller (57001 -254 or 57001 -1 099)
B. Alternator Rotor
98 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE REMOVED
*Remove the contact breaker cover and gasket.
*Free the contact bredker point leads f r o m the cldmps under the clutch cover.
*Take o u t thc contdct breaker pldte screws, lockwashers, and flat washers (3 ea).
A. Contact Breaker Plate Screws
B. Crankshaft Rotation Nut
C. Timing Advancer Mounting Bolt
*With a 1 7 m m wrench on the crankshaft rotation n u t t o keep the shaft from turning, remove the advancer m o u n t i n g bolt, and take o f f the timing advancer.
*Remove the screws ( 9 ) , and pull o f f the clutch cover and gasket.
*Remove the clutch spring bolts (5), washers (5), dnd springs (5).
A. Clutch Holder (57001-305)
*Pull o f f the clutch hub, clutch housing, needle bearing, collar, dnd large flat washer. There is a thrust washer between the clutch hub and clutch housing.
*Remove the upper crankcase half bolts (1 3, or 11 if t w o were removed just after engine removal).
*Turn the engine upsidc down.
*Remove the oil filter mounting b o l t , oil filter, and large
0 ring.
*Remove the oil pan bolts (1 3), and remove the oil pan, gasket, large 0 ring, and oil passage
A. Oil Passage " 0 " Rings
*Remove the secondary shaft bearing stop screws and remove the stop.
( 2 ) ,
A. Spring Plate B. Spring Bolt
*Pull o f f the spring plate and spring plate pusher.
*Push i n the push rod t o remove the steel ball, and pull o u t the push rod.
*Remove the friction plates (7) dnd steel plates (6).
*Hold the clutch hub from turning using a clutch holder (special tool), and remove the clutch hub n u t and lockwasher.
A. Bearing Stop Screws
B. Oil Pump Bolt
C. Oil Pump
DISASSEMBLY--ENGINE R E M O V E D 101
.Using the bearing drivcr (special tool), tap thc sccond- ary shaft bearing i n t o thc crankcdsc with thc secondary shaft u n t i l the bedring stops at the b o t t o m o f the crankcase bearing hole. Check that the bearing collar i s properly fitted in the left bedring.
A. Bearing Puller (57001-135)
B. Bearing Puller Adapter (57001-317)
C. Secondary Shaft Gear
.Put the thrust washer and star-ter m o t o r clutch i n t o the secondary sprocket and starter m o t o r clutch assembly.
@ F i t the primary chain on the secondary sprocket.
A. Bearing Driver (57001-297)
B. Right Secondary Shaft Bearing
C h e c k t o see thdt the oil pump knock pins (2) are in place. Install the oil pump, making sure the oil p u m p gear and p u m p drive gear at the secondary shaft mesh properly. Tighten the oil pump bolt.
A. Secondary Sprocket B. Primary Chain
.Put the bearing collar &to the left secondary shaft bearing.
.Put the thrust washer o n the secondary shaft, and put the secondary shaft i n t o the secondary sprocket and starter motor clutch as,embly, f i t t i n g their splines.
A. Secondary Shaft
B. Starter Motor Clutch Assembly
C. Thrust Washer
A. Oil Pump Gear
B. Drive Gear
C. Knock Pins
.Instdll the seconddry shdtt bearlng stop w i t h the screws ( 2 ) , stake c a ~ h prevent loosening.
102 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE R E M O V E D
*Check that the large are in place, and install a new oil pan gasket, and the oil pan with its mounting bolts (1 3). Tighten the bolts to
A. Bearing Stop
B. Oil Pump Bolt
C. Stop Screws
*Put the collar on the secondary shaft.
*Apply a little oil on the secondary shaft and between the secondary shaft gear and gear pusher (special tool).
Using the holder (special tool) to keep the crankshaft and secondary shaft from turning, push the secondary shaft gear on the shaft by rotating the gear pusher
(special tool).
A. Oil Pressure Relief Valve B. Large 0 Ring
*Check that the large 0 ring i s in place, and install the oil filter, tightening its bolt to 2.0 kg-m (14.5 ft-lbs) o f torque.
*Turn the engine right side up.
*Install the upper crankcase bolts engine i s set on the engine stand (special t o o l ) ] , and tighten them to 1.0 kg-m (87 in-lbs) o f torque.
*Put the clutch housing spacer on the drive shaft.
The spacer must be installed with its flat side facing toward the end o f the shaft.
A. Gear Pusher (57001-319)
B. Secondary Shaft Gear
C. Collar
D. Holder (57001-3081
*Install the circlip on the secondary shaft.
*Fit the oil passage 0 rings (3) on the lower crankcase.
Replace the 0 rings with new ones, i f deteriorated or damaged. The flat side o f the 0 ring must face down.
A. Oil Passage B. Flat Side
A. Drive Shaft
B. Clutch Housing Spacer
C. Flat Side
*Install the drive shaft sleeve, needle bearing, and clutch housing.
*Put on the thrust washer, clutch hub, and lockwasher.
Replace the clutch hub nut with a new one, screw on the nut and tighten it t o 13.5 kg-m (98 ft-lbs) o f torque, while holding the hub stationary with the clutch holder (special tool).
The washer between the clutch hub and the clutch hub nut must be installed w i t h
the marked side, "OUT. SIDE", facing out (Fig. F52). I f this washer is installed backwards, the hub n u t might loosen during operation. This causes clutch disengage- ment, resulting i n loss o f motorcycle control.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE R E M O V E D 103
contact breaker lead clamps (2) with their clutch cover screws.
A. Clamps
A. Lockwasher
.Install the friction plates (7) and steel plates ing with a friction plate and alternating them.
I f new dry steel plates and friction plates are installed, apply engine oil t o the sur- faces of each plate t o avoid clutch plate seizure.
.Insert the clutch steel ball, and spring plate pusher, applying a thin coat o f molybdenum disulfide engine assembly grease to their surfaces.
.Fit the timing advancer onto the crankshaft, matching i t s notch with the pin in the end o f the crankshaft, and install the crankshaft rotation nut and the advancer mounting bolt. The notches i n the nut f i t the pro- jections on the timing advancer. Tighten the b o l t t o 2.5 kg-m (1 8.0 ft-lbs) o f torque.
A. Timing Advancer B. Notch C. Pin
A. Spring Plate Pusher B. Steel Ball
.Install the spring plate, springs, spring washers, and spring bolts ( 5 ea). Cross tighten the bolts evenly t o
0.90 kg-m (78 in-lbs) o f torque.
NOTE: The spring plate can be installed on the clutch hub i n any position, so there i s no mark on either the spring plate or the clutch hub.
*Fit the clutch cover onto the crankcase. Tighten the screws (9) firmly. Be sure t o include the
.Mount the contact breaker plate, and tighten i t s screws
(3) loosely. Each screw has a lockwasher and flat washer.
NOTE: Contact breaker plate screws will be tightened securely during ignition timing adjustment.
.Fit the wiring grommet, and install the gasket and contact breaker cover with the screws (2).
.Clamp the contact breaker wiring with the wiring clamps under the clutch cover.
.Check that the external shift mechanism return spring pin is not loose. I f it i s loose, remove it, apply a non- permanent locking agent to the threads, and re-install i t (Fig. E l 0 5 on Pg. 72).
.Check that the return spring and pawl spring are
104 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE REMOVED
properly fitted in place, mount the external shift mechanism, and place its arms on the shift drum pins.
A. Collar B. Secondary Shaft
A. Return Spring B. Pawl Spring
*Apply a high temperature grease to the lips o f the clutch push rod oil seal and the output shaft collar oil seal.
*Check that the external shift mechanism cover knock pins (2) are in place.
*Insert the shift shaft oil seal guide (special tool) in the external shift mechanism cover oil seal, install the cover and gasket, and then tighten the screws (7).
There i s a lead clamp.
*Tighten the secondary shaft n u t to 6.0 kg-m (43 ft-lbs) o f torque while holding the alternator rotor steady with the rotor holder (special tool).
*Install the secondary shaft bearing cap, and tighten its screws (2). The upper screw has a wiring clamp.
*Check that the knock pins (2) are in place, install the gasket and alternator cover, and tighten the screws (4).
NOTE: Before installing the engine, tighten the remain- ing upper crankcase bolts i f n o t already tightened.
Tightening torque o f the bolt i s 1.0 kg-m (87 in-lbs).
*Install the engine (Pg. 95).
*Fill the engine with oil, check the oil level (Pg. 22), and add more i f necessary.
*Carry out the adjustment procedures listed at the end o f the engine installation section (Pg. 96).
TRANSMISSION
Removal
:
*Remove the engine (Pg. 92).
*Split the crankcases (Pg. 96).
*Pull out the shift rod, and remove the two shift forks in the lower crankcase half.
A. External Shift Mechanism Cover
B. Shift Shaft Oil Seal Guide (57001-264)
C. Attach the lead clamp here with a screw.
*Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the bolts (3), and install the drive chain guard.
*Clean the starter motor lugs and crankcase where the starter motor is grounded.
*Apply a little oil to the
*Check tha; the secondary shaft collar ir in place. A. Shift Forks B. Shift Rod
.Remove the shift drum positioning bolt, >pring, and pin.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE R E M O V E D 105
A. Positioning Bolt
B. Shift Fork Guide Pin
C. Guide Bolt
D. Cotter Pin
.Straighten the side o f the lockwasher that i s bent over the side o f the shift drum guide bolt, and remove the b o l t and lockwasher.
.Remove the cotter pin, and pull out the 5th/6th shift fork guide pin.
.Remove the operating place circlip and operating plate.
.Pull out the shift drum slightly, and remove the 5th/6th shift fork. Pull the shift drum free trom the crankcase.
A. Operating Plate Pin B. Operating Plate
.Tighten the shift drum guide bolt checking the guide b o l t i s properly fitted in the shift drum groove, and bend the side o f the lockwasher over the side o f the bolt. The lockwasher must seat in the crankcase.
Installation:
.Insert the shift drum into the crankcase part way, install the 5th/6th shift fork with the long end facing the neutral switch, i.e., the long end goes onto the drum first.
A. Shift Drum Guide Bolt B. Lockwasher
.Put the shift fork guide pin into the Sth/6th shift fork. The guide pin rides in the middle groove of the three guide pin grooves.
.Insert a new cotter pin through the 5th/6th shift f o r k and guide pin from the long end side o f the shift fork, and spread the cotter pin long end inward.
A. 5th/6th Shift Fork
B. Long End
C. Shift Drum
.Push the shift drum in the rest o f the way.
.Check to see that the operating plate pin i s in place, f i t the operating plate onto the end o f the shift drum, and install the circlip. A. Shift Fork Guide Pin B. Cotter Pin
A. Needle Bearing
<
Assembly Notes:
-.
L
-
6- Bearing Driver (57007-287)
8. Shift Forks
Drive Shaft
Disassemblv:
Transmission
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE R E M O V E D 107
1.
2. Bearing Outer Race
3. Circlip
4. Needle Bearing
5. Thrust Washer
6. 2nd Gear (D)
7. Circlip
8, Splined Washer
9. 6th Gear (D)
10. Bushing
11. Splined Washer
12. Circlip
13. 3rd/4th Gear (D)
14. Circlip
15. Thrust Washer
16. 5th Gear ( D )
17. Cotter Pin
18. Shift Fork Guide Pin
19. Shift Fork (5th/6th)
20. Drive Shaft
21. Ball Bearing
22. Screw
23. Pin Plate
24. Shift Drum Pin
25. Circlip
26. Needle Bearing
27. Shift Drum
28. Operating Pldte
29. Pin
30. Circlip
31. Circlip
32. Shift Rod
33. Guide Bolt
34. Lockwasher
35. Shift Fork (2ndI4th)
36. Shift Fork (1 st/3rd)
37. Positioning Pin
38. Spring
39. Positioning Bolt
40. Bolt
41. Holding Plate
42. Engine Sprocket
43. Collar
44. Ball Bearing
45. Output Shaft
46. Ball
47. 2nd Gear ( 0 )
48. Splined Washer
49. Circlip
50. 6th Gear ( 0 )
51. Circlip
52. Splined Washer
53. 4th Gear ( 0 )
54. Splined Washer
55. 3rd Gear ( 0 )
56. Splined Washer
57. Circlip
58. 5th Gear ( 0 )
59. 1 s t Gear ( 0 )
60. Thrust Washer
61. Needle Bearing
62. Circlip
63. Bearing Outer Race
108 DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE R E M O V E D
*Remove the circlip 7
, and pull o f f the splined washer
8
, 6th gear 9
, bushing,lo, and splined washerill
.
.Remove the circlip 1 2
, and pull o f t the 3rdl4th gear 1 3 .
, and pull o f f the washer I5 and
5th gear 1 6 .
.Remove the ball bearing 2 1 using the bearing puller and addpter (special tools).
Circlip and Splined Washer Installation m
A. Bearing Puller (57001-135)
B. Adapter (57001-317)
C. Ball Bearing
Assembly Notes:
1. Install the drive shaft ball bearing using the trans- mission circlip driver (special tool).
1. Teeth o f Splined Washer
2. Splined Washer
3. Groove o f Shaft
4. Opening o f Circlip
5. Circlip
6. Shaft
5. When assembling the 6th gear bushing to the drive shaft, align the oil holes with the holes in the shaft.
A. Driver (57001-382)
To install a circlip without damage, f i t the circlip onto the shaft expanding i t onto enough to install it, and use a suitable gear to push the circlip i n t o place.
Replace any circlips that were removed with new ones. Install the circlip so that the opening coincides with one o f the splined grooves in the output shaft
( F i g F73).
Install the splined washer so that its teeth do not coincide with the circlip opening (Fig. F73).
A. 6th Gear Bushing B. Oil Holes
6. The drive shaft gears can be recognized by size, the gear with smallest diameter being 1st gear, and the largest one being 6th gear. Be sure that all parts are put back in the correct sequence, facing the proper direction, and all circlips and washers are properly in place.
Drive Shaft Gears rn
7. Proper sequence starting w i t h 1st gcar (part of drive shaft) i,: 1st gear, 5th gcar (facc the flat side o f the gcar t o the right), wdsher, circlip, 3rd/4th gcar (facc
3rd gedr side t o the right), circlip, splined wdsher, bushing (face the chamfered side t o thc right), 6 t h gear (face the dog, t o the right), splined washer, circlip, 2nd gear (facc the recessed side to the right), washer, needle bearing, circlip, and needle bcdring
OLI ter racc.
Output Shaft
Disassembly:
.Pull o f f the needle bearlng outer rdce 63
.Remove the clrclrp sz, , and pull o f f the needle bearing
6 1 , washer so, and 1 st gear 59
.
0 5 t h gear 58' has three steel balls 46 (3) assembled Into it f o r neutral positioning T o remove thls gedr wlth the balls, quickly spln the shaft In a vertical posltlon w h ~ l c holdlng 3rd gear 5 5 , and pull o f f 5th gear upwards.
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE R E M O V E D 109
6. The o u t p u t shaft gear sizes are opposite f r o m those of the drive shaft gears, the largest being 1 st gear and the smallest being top gear. Be sure that all parts are p u t back i n the correct sequence, and facing the proper direction, and that all circlips and washers are
PI-opel-ly in place.
Output Shaft Gears
Proper sequence starting with 2nd gear is: 2nd gear
(tace the flat side of the gear t o the left), washer, circlip, 6 t h gear (fdce the f o r k groove side t o the right), circlip, splined washer, bushing (face the chamfered side t o the left), 3rd gear (face the side with the dog recesses to the right), splined washer, circlip, 5th gear (face the fork groove side t o the l e f t ) and steel balls (3), 1st gear (fdce the flat side o f the gcar t o the right), washer, needle bearing, circlip, and needle bearing outer racc.
A. 5th Gear B. 3rd Gear
.Remove the clrcllp 5 7 , and pull o f f the splincd washer
5 6 ,
3rd gcar washer 5 2
55 , washer 54
, 4 t h gcar 53 , and s p l ~ n c d
.Remove the clrchp 49
, and pull off the 6th gear 50
, and pull o t f the washer 4 8 , and
2nd gear 47
.Using the bcarlng puller (spec~al t o o l ) , remove the output shatt ball bear~ng and collar 4 3 .
Assembly Notes:
Install the output shaft ball bearing and collar using the driver (special tool).
To install a circlip without damage, f i t the circlip onto the shaft expanding it only enough t o in5tall i t , and use a suitable gear t o push the circlip i n t o place.
Replace any circlips that were removed with new ones. Install the circlip so that the opening coincides with one o f the splined grooves in the driver shatt
(Fig. F73).
Install the splined washer
50 that its teeth d o not coincide with the circlip opening (Fig. F73).
Do n o t use gred5e on the three bdlls during dssembly; these balls must be dble t o move freely.
C R A N K S H A F T (including connecting rods),
C A M S H A F T CHAIN, A N D
P R I M A R Y C H A I N
Removal
:
.Remove the engine (Pg. 92).
.Set the engine o n a clean surface or, preferably, i n t o a disassembly apparatus with some means o f holding the engine steady while parts are being removed.
NOTE: I f the engine is to be set o n t o the engine stand
(special t o o l ) , t w o o f the upper crankcase half bolts (1 3) shown in Fig. F20 must be removed before positioning the engine.
.Remove the camshafts as explained i n camshaft re- moval (Pg. 57).
.Remove the cylinder hcad (Pg. 61 ).
.Remove the cylinder block (Pg. 64).
.Remove the pistons (Pg. 67).
.Split the crankcdse (Pg. 96).
.Lift o f f the crankshaft with the camshaft chain and primary chain.
110
D I S A S S E M B L Y - E N G I N E R E M O V E D
1L
A. Crankshaft
B. Camshaft Chain
C. Primary Chain
*Pull the oil seals o f f both ends o f the crankshaft.
@Remove the camshaft chain from the crankshaft.
@Remove the primary chain.
I n s t a l l a t i o n Notes:
1. I f a new crankshaft and/or connecting rod i s used, select the proper bearing insert in accordance with the combination of connecting rod and the crank- shaft marks (See Pg. 11 1 ).
2. I f a new crankshaft, crankcase halves, and/or main bearing inserts are used, select the proper bearing insert in accordance with the combination o f crank- case and the crankshaft marks. I f the crankcase only i s replaced with a new one, first measure the diameter o f the crankshaft journal, mark i t s flywheel in accord- ance with the diameter (Pg. 177), and then select the right bearing inserts in accordance with Table F2.
Table F2 Main Bearing Insert Selection
Crankcase
I
No mark
1
Brown
I
No mark
I
PIN 13034-1 7
1
PIN 13034-1 01 8
I
A. Markings for Crankshaft Journal ("1" or No mark)
B. Markings for Connecting Rod Journal
3. Apply engine oil to the main bearing inserts.
4. Apply a high temperature grease to the lip
OF the oil seals, and f i t the oil seals onto both sides o f the crank- shaft with the arrow mark on the oil seal facing out.
The arrow mark should shown the same direction o f the crankshaft rotation (clockwise, watching from the contact breaker side).
A. Oil Seai for Left End B. Oil Seal for Right End
A. Markings for Crankcase ("0"
A. Arrow Mark
B. Oil Seal
C. Contact Breaker Side (Right End)
C O N N E C T I N G R O D S
R e m o v a l (each side) :
@Remove the crankshaft (Pg. 109).
.Remove the nuts (2) and pull o f f the connecting rod big end cap.
To prevent damage to the crankshaft journals, do not allow the big end cap bolts to bump against them.
.Remove the connecting rod bearing insert halves from the connecting rod big end and the big end cap.
A.
Big End Cap, B. Nuts
DISASSEMBLY-ENGINE REMOVED 11
1
3. The connecting rod big end cap is machined with the connecting rod as a set, so f i t them together so that the weight marks align (Fig. F85). The big end cap must be replaced together with the connecting r o d as a set.
4. I f a new crankshaft and/or connecting rod is used, select the right rod bearing insert in accordance with the combination o f the connecting rod and the crank- shaft marks (Fig. F86). I f the connecting r o d only is replaced with a new one, first measure the diameter of the crankpin, mark its flywheel i n accordance with the diameter (Pg. 176), and then select the right bearing insert in accordance with Table F3.
Table F3 Connecting Rod Bearing Insert Selection
N o mark 0
I
O
1 I Brown
I
No mNk
/
Green
PIN: 13034-1 004
I
Black
PIN: 13034-1 005
A. Bearing Inserts
Installation Notes:
1. Apply engine oil to the rod bearing inserts.
2. A pair o f connecting rods (#1 and #2, or #3 and #4) should have the same weight mark in each pair. This weight mark, indicated using a capital letter, i s stamped on the connecting r o d big end.
A. Painted Marks (Brown, Black, or Green)
B. Marking for Connecting Rod ("0" or No mark)
A. Weight Mark
A. Markings for Crankshaft Journal
B. Markings for Connecting Rod Journal
5. Hand tighten both nuts first, and then tighten each nut to 2.4 kg-m (1 7.5 ft-lbs) o f torque.
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 113
Disassembly- Chassis
Table of Contents
FLOW CHART
WHEELS. BRAKES
FRONT WHEEL
Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Speedometer Gear Housing
Bearings. Brake Discs
FRONT DISC BRAKES
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pads
Calipers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Master Cylinder
BrakeHoses
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
REAR WHEEL
Wheel
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wheel Coupling. Rear Sprocket
Bearings. Brake Disc
REAR DISC BRAKE
Pads
123
123
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Caliper
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Master Cylinder
BrakeHose
TIRES. TUBES
.
.
128
130
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
CABLES
CLUTCH CABLE
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
THROTTLE CABLES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SPEEDOMETER CABLE
...
134
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
TACHOMETER CABLE
LIGHTS, METERS
HEADLIGHT UNIT
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l NDICATOR LIGHTS (Left and Right Turn. High Beam, Neutral) . . . . 137
TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
TURN SIGNAL ASSEMBLYS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
SPEEDOMETER. TACHOMETER. METER LIGHTS.
INDICATOR LIGHTS (Oil. Stop Lamp)
TAI LIBRAKE LIGHT
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SWITCHES
IGNITION SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
FRONT BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
141
141
REAR BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
STARTER LOCKOUT SWITCH
STEERING
HANDLEBAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
STEERING STEM
STEERING STEM BEARINGS
142
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SUSPEESIONS, DRIVE CHAIN
FRONT FORK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SWING ARM
DRIVE CHAIN
FLOW CHART
Disassembly - Chassis
The following chart is intended to be aids t o proper removal. Select the component you wish t o remove and follow the arrows t o that point on the chart.
4
4
Motorcycle Lr]
Front Calipers
Front
Brake
Ti re
&
Tube
P I 1 5
9
Front Wheel
Housing
Tachometer
Lights
Steering Stem
I
Steering Stem Bearing
I
I
Housing
Leads
Starter
Lockout
Switch
4
Handlebar
I
Drive Chain
I
I
NOTE: Action with a mark ( * ) ( s ) for removal, installation, disassembly, or assembly.
F R O N T WHEEL
Wheel Removal:
.Disconnect the lower end o f the specdometer cable with pliers.
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
115
.Check that the speedometer gcar housing i s properly fitted on the front hub (See the speedometer gcar housing assembly notcs on Pg. 117), and check that the collar i s on the right side o f the hub.
.Hold the front wheel in its place between the front fork tubes, and insert the axle from the right.
.Install the front axle nut finger tight.
.Turn the speedometer gcar housing so that i t points to the rear, and f i t the housing stop t o the fork leg stop.
A. Speedometer Cable B. Axle Nut
.Unbolt one of the brake calipers, and move i t free o f the fork leg. Avoid straining the brake lines and fittings.
A. Front
B. Gear Housing Stop
C. Fork Leg Stop
.Holding the dxle with a metal bar so that i t does not turn, tighten the axle nut to 8.0 kg-m (58 ft-lbs) o f torque.
.Tighten the axle clamp bolt to 2.0 kg-m (14.5 ft-lbs) o f torque.
.Install the brake caliper, and tighten the caliper mount- ing bolts (2) to 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) o f torque.
.Run the speedometer cable through the cable guide at the front fender.
.Insert the speedometer inner cable i n t o the housing while turning the wheel so that the slot in the end of the cable will seat on the tongue o f the speedometer pinion. Tighten the cable nut with pliers.
A. Caliper Mounting Bolts B. Axle Clamp Bolt
.Remove the axle nut, and loosen the axle clamp bolt nut.
.Use a jack under the engine or other suitable means to l i f t the front of the motorcycle.
.Holding the wheel to facilitate axle removal, pull out the axle, and then remove the wheel from the motor- cycle.
Do not lay the wheel down on one of the discs. This can damage or warp the disc. Place the blocks under the wheel so that the discs do not touch the ground.
.Insert a wood wedge (4-5 mm thick) between the disc brake pads. This prevents the pads from being moved out o f their proper position, should the brake lever be squeezed accidentally.
Wheel Installation:
.Remove the wedge from between the disc brake pads.
A. Slot B. Speedometer Cable C. Turn.
.Check the front brake.
D O not attempt to drive the motorcycle until a full brake lever is obtained by pumping the brake lever until the pads are against the
116
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
disc. The brakes will not function on the first appli- cation of the lever if this is not done.
Speedometer Gear Housing Disassembly:
.Pull the speedometer gear housing 20 and collar S off the front wheel 2 .
.If the speedometer cable bushing 25 or speedometer pinion 24 needs t o be removed, first drill the housing through the pin a using a 1 m m drill bit. Drill the housing from the gear side using a 2 m m drill bit.
Using a suitable tool, tap out the pin, and then pull o u t the speedometer cable bushing, pinion, and washers
23
.
NOTE: It i s recommended that the assembly be re- placed rather than attempting to repair the components.
Front Wheel
A. Speedometer Gear Housing B. Pin
5. Collar
6. Bolt
7. Cover
8. Grease Seal
9. Circlip
10. Bearing
11. Distance Collar
12. Bearing
13. Plate
14. Bolt
15. Circlip
16. Washer
17. Speedometer Gear
Drive
1 8. Grease Seal
19. Speedometer Gear
20. Speedometer Gear
Housing
21. Axle Nut
22. Pin
23. Washer
24. Speedometer Pinion
25. Bushing
Speedometer Gear Housing Assembly Notes:
1. After inserting a new pin, stake the housing hole to secure the pin in place.
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
Wheel Bearing Removal
117 m
A. Pin B. Stake.
2. Install the speedometer gear housing so that i t fits i n the speedometer gear drive notches.
Bearing, Brake Disc Installation:
*Inspect the bearings and replace i f necessary. Lubricate them.
*Before installing the wheel bearings, blow any dirt or foreign particles out o f the hub with compressed air to prevent contamination o f the bearings.
*Install the right side ball bearing using the bearing driver and the bearing driver holder (special tools) so that the bearing shields face out. Press the bearing until i t stops at the bottom of the hole.
A. Speedometer Gear Housing
B. Fit i n the gear drive notches.
Bearing, Brake Disc Removal:
*Pull the speedometer gear housing 20 and collar 5 off the wheel.
*Remove the disc bolts 6 discs
,
14 (8), and take off the z',
141. The left disc has the holding plate 13
, and right has the cover 7
.
*Using a hook, pull out the grease seal 8
, and remove the circlip 9
.
*Insert a metal rod into the hub from the left side, and remove the bearing Ib' on the right side by tapping evenly around the bearing inner race (Fig. G9).
*Insert the metal rod into the hub from the right side, and remove the other bearing around the bearing inner race. The distance collar I I will come out with the bearing.
A. Bearing Driver Holder (57001-139)
B. Bearing Driver (57001-288)
*Put the distance collar into the hub.
*Install the left side ball bearing using the same special tools so that the bearing shields face out, and install the circlip to the outside o f the right side ball bearing.
*Install a new grease seal using a suitable driver. Press the seal so that the face of the seal i s level w i t h the surface o f the front hub.
*Mount the discs on the wheel, and install the holding plate on the left disc so that the plain side facing in, and the cover on the right disc. Tighten the disc mounting bolts to 2.3 kg-m (1 6.5 ft-lbs) o f torque.
118 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
A. Holding Plate
*After installing the disc, check the disc runout (Pg.
203).
*Install the speedometer gear housing so that it f i t s in the speedometer gear drive notches (Fig. G8).
*Install the collar on the right side o f the hub.
*Completely clean o f f any grease thdt has gotton on either side o f the disc with a high flash-point solvent.
Do not use one which will leave an oily residue.
If any of the brake line fittings or the bleed valve i s opened at any time, AIR MUST BE BLED FROM
THE BRAKE SYSTEM (Pg. 205).
When installing or assembling the disc brake, tighten the disc brake fittings to the values given in Table GI.
Improper torque may cause the brake to malfunction.
Table GI Disc Brake Torque (for front and rear)
I
[
Bleed valves
Part
I
Brake hose banio bolts
Brake lever pivot bolt
I ke-m I ft-lbs I
1
0.80
1
69 in-lbs
1
3.0 (
'
22
I
I
Brake pedal cap nut
Disc mounting bolts
Front caliper holder shaft nuts
1
Front c a l i ~ e r
I Front master cylinder clamp bolts
Rear caliper Allen bolts
19.0
1
3.0
1
22
1
0.90
1
78in-lbs
I
I
Rear caliper mounting bolts
3.0 22
22
26 in-lbs Pad mounting screws
3.0
0.30
Pad Removal (each side):
*Remove the caliper mounting bolts.
*Lift the caliper o f f the disc, take out the mounting screw for pad B, and remove the pad. A lockwasher and metal plate also come off.
F R O N T DISC B R A K E
Removal, installation, disassembly, and assembly of the front disc brake is divided as follows:
Pad Removal and Installation
Caliper Removal and Installation Notes
Caliper Disassembly and Assembly
Master Cylinder Removal and Installation Notes
Master Cylinder Disassembly and Assembly Notes
Brake Hose Replacement
NOTE: Disc removal and disc installation are covered in Front Wheel Section (Pg. 1 1 7).
Before working on the disc brake, please read the following:
1. Except for the disc pads and disc; use only disc brake fluid, isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol for cleaning brake parts.
Do not use any other fluid for cleaning these parts.
Gasoline, motor oil, or any other petroleum distillate will cause deterioration of the rubber parts. Oil spilled on any part will be difficult t o wash off completely, and will eventually deteriorate the rubber used i n the disc brake.
When handling the disc pads or disc, be careful that no disc brake fluid or any oil gets on them. Clean off any fluid or oil that inadvertently gets on the pads or disc with a high flash-point solvent. Replace the pads with new ones if they cannot be cleaned satisfactorily.
Brake fluid quickly ruins painted surfaces; any spilled fluid should be completely wiped up immediately.
A. Caliper
B. Mounting Screw
C. Pad A
D. Pad B
*After pad B is removed, slide the caliper holder to the piston side, and remove pad A.
Pad Installation:
*Remove the bleed valve cap on the caliper, attach a clear plastic hose to the bleed valve, and run the other end of the hose into a container.
*Open (loosen) the valve slightly, push the piston in by hand as far as i t will go, and then close (tighten) the valve. Wipe up any spilled fluid, and recap the bleed valve. The bleed valve must be tightened to 0.80 kg-m (69 in-lbs) of torque.
A. Bleed Valve B. Hose
@ F i t the pad upward.
A so that the stepped portion points
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
119
@Since some brake fluid was lost when the bleed valve was opened, check the fluid level in the master cylinder and bleed the air from the brake system (Pg. 205).
@Push the bleed valve cap onto the valve.
@Check the front brake.
Do not attempt t o drive the motorcycle until a full brake lever i s obtained by pumping the brake lever until the pads are against the disc. The brake will not function on the first applica- tion of the lever if this i s not done.
Caliper Removal (each caliper):
@ I f the caliper i s t o be disassembled, loosen the caliper holder shaft nuts 6) (2).
A. Pad A B. Pad B C. Stepped Portion
@Fit pad B, aligning the tongue on the pad with the groove in the caliper. Install the metal plate, lock- washer and mounting screw; using a non-permanent locking agent on the screw.
A. Apply a non-permanent locking agent.
B. Tongue and Groove C. Pad B
I n s t a l l the caliper, tightening the caliper mounting bolts to 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) o f torque.
A. Holder Shaft Nuts
NOTE: I f the caliper i s to be disassembled after caliper removal and compressed air is not available, remove the piston using the following two steps before disconnect- ing the brake hose fitting from the caliper.
ORemove the pad (Pg. 1 18).
OPump the piston out with the brake lever.
@Remove the banjo bolt at the caliper, and temporarily secure the end o f the brake hose t o some high place t o keep fluid loss to a minimum. There on each side o f the hose fitting. is a flat washer
@Remove the mounting bolts (2), each with a flat washer and lockwasher, and take o f f the caliper.
Caliper Installation Notes:
1. Tighten the mounting bolts to 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) o f torque.
2. Tighten the caliper holder shaft nuts t o 2.6 kg-m
(19.0 ft-lbs) o f torque.
3. Connect the brake hose t o the caliper putting a new flat washer on each side o f the brake hose fitting.
Tighten the banjo bolt t o 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) o f torque.
4. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder, and bleed the brake line (Pg. 205).
Do not attempt to drive the motorcycle
LWARNING) until a full brake lever i s obtained by pumping the brake lever until the pads are against the disc. The brake will not function on the first application of the lever if this is not done.
120 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
Caliper Disassembly:
*Take out the mounting screw 16 for pad remove the pad A
17
B 13
, and
. A lockwasher I S and metal plate 14 also come off.
.Remove the caliper holder shaft nuts 6 (2), and pull out the caliper holder shafts 3) (2) and the spacers 5
(2) taking care not to damage the dust covers I Z (4).
Remove the holder l o .
To avoid damage to the dust covers and ICAUTlbN(
0 rings, unscrew each shaft in turn a little at a time.
*Remove the dust seal 9 around the piston 8
.
*Cover the caliper opening with a clean, heavy cloth, and remove the piston by lightly applying compressed air to where the brake line fits into the caliper. a fingers or palm inside the caliper opening.
If you apply compressed air into the caliper, the piston may crush your hand or fingers.
NOTE: I f compressed air i s not available, reconnect the brake line and pump the piston out with the brake lever.
A. Holder Shaft
B. Dust Cover
Front C a l i ~ e r
C. Holder
D. Caliper
E. Spacer
F. Nut A. Compressed Air B. Heavy Cloth
5. Spacer 18. Mounting Bolt
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 121
.Taking care not to damage the cylinder surface, remove the fluid seal 7 with a hook.
Caliper Assembly:
.Clean the caliper parts with brake fluid or alcohol
(See CAUTION
-
Pg. 1 1 8).
@Fit a new fluid seal in place inside the cylinder.
NOTE: I t i s recommended that the fluid seal, which i s removed, bc replaced with a new one.
.Apply brake fluid to thc outside o f the piston and the fluid seal, and push the piston into the cylinder by hand. Take care that neither the cylinder nor the piston skirt gct scratched.
.Install the dust seal around the dust seal stop. Check
A. Front Brake Switch B. Switch Tab that the dust seal i s properly fitted into the groove in the piston and on the dust seal stop.
Caliper Dust Seal, Fluid Seal
.Pull back the dust cover, and remove the banjo bolt to a disconnect the upper brake hose from the master cyl- inder. There i s a flat washer on each side o f the hose fitting.
1. Dust Seal
2. Seal Stop
3. Piston
4. Fluid Seal
.Apply a thin coat o f PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease t o the caliper holder shafts and holder holes. (PBC i s a special high temperature, water-resistant grease).
N O T E : Replace the dust covers and 0 rings i f they were damaged.
.With the caliper holder properly positioned, insert the caliper holder shafts while carefully turning the shafts to prevent damage to the dust covers.
.Install the spacers and nuts, and tighten the nuts loosely.
N O T E : Do not forget to tighten the nuts after inbtalling the caliper on the motorcycle (Pg. 1 1 9).
.Install pad A in the caliper holder (Fig. GI 4).
.Fit pad B, aligning the tongue on the pad with the groove in the caliper. Install the metal plate, lock- washer, and mounting screw using a non-permanent locking agent on the screw (Fig. GI 5).
Master Cylinder Removal:
.Take o f f the right rear view mirror.
.Using a thin-bladed screwdriver or some other suitable tool, press in the front brake switch tab which catches in the hole in the underside o f the master cylinder, and then remove the switch.
A. Banjo Bolt B. Clamp Bolts
.Remove the clamp bolts ( 2 ) , and take o f f the master cylinder. There i s a flat washer for each master cyl- inder clamp bolt. Immediately wipe up any brake fluid that spills.
Master Cylinder Installation Notes:
1. The master cylinder clamp i s installed with the small projection towards the throttle grip. Tighten the upper clamp bolt first, and then the lower clamp b o l t both t o 0.90 kg-m (78 in-lbs) of torque.
A. Tighten the upper clamp bolt first.
B. Clamp C. Projection
122 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
Front Master Cylinder
1. F r o n t Brake Light
Switch
2. Screw
3. Master Cylinder Cap
4. Brake Lever Pivot
Bolt
5. Diaphragm
6. Brake Lever
7. L o c k n u t
8. Spring
9. Primary Cup
10. Secondary Cup
11. Piston
12. Piston Stop
13. Dust Seal
14. Liner
15. Dust Covcr
16. Banjo (Fitting) Bolt
17. Flat Washer
18. Hose Fitting
19. Upper Brake Hose
20. Master Cylinder Body
21. Mounting Bolt
22. Master Cylinder Clamp
23. Flat Washer
24. Clamp Bolt
25. Lower L c f t Brake Hosc
26. Banjo (Fitting) Bolt
27. Hose Fitting
28. 2-way J o i n t
29. Lower Right Brake
Hose
30. Hosc Fitting
31. Hose Fitting
32. Banjo (Fitting) Bolt
Use a new flat washer on edch side o f the brake hose fitting. Tighten the banjo bolt t o 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) o f torque.
Bleed the brake line after mastcr cylindcr installation
(Pg. 205).
Master Cylinder Disassembly
:
*Remove the screws 2 (2), take o f f the mastcr cylindcr cdp 3 and diaphragm 5
, and empty out the brake fluid.
*Remove the locknut 7) and pivot bolt 4 , and remove the brake lever 6
.
*Using a thin-bladed screwdriver or some other suitable tool, press in the liner tabs which cdtch in the holes in the master cylinder, and then remove the lincrl141.
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 123
3. Tighten the brdke lever pivot bolt t o 0.30 kg-m (26 in-lbs) of torque, and tighten the locknut t o 0.60 kg-m (52 in-lbs) o f torque.
Brake Hose Replacement:
.Pump the brake fluid out of the line as explained i n the
Maintenance Section
-
Changing the brake f l u i d (Pg.
205).
*Remove the banjo bolts at the 2-way joint and at the caliper or master cylinder (depending on the hose), and remove the brake hose. There i s a flat washer on each side o f the hose fitting.
*Connect the new brake hose to the 2-way joint and the caliper or master cylinder, putting a new flat washer on each side o f the brake hose fittings.
*Be sure that the metal pipe i s properly fitted i n t o the
U-shaped notch in the 2-way joint and tighten the banjo bolts to the specified torque.
*Fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid, and bleed the brake line (Pg. 205).
A. Liner
.Pull out the dust seal 13 and spring unit
, piston stop 12, and piston u .
Do not remove the primary cup (9 and secondary cup 1 0 from the piston since removal will damage the cups.
Master Cylinder Assembly Notes:
1. Before assembly, clean all parts including the master cylinder with brake fluid or alcohol (See CAUTION
-
Pg. 11 8). Apply brake fluid to the parts removed and to the inner wall o f the cylinder.
2. Be sure that the piston stop fi i s between the piston and dust seal
1 3 .
R E A R WHEEL
Wheel Removal:
*Put the motorcycle up on its center stand.
.Loosen the self-locking nuts at the torque link.
A. Dust Seal B. Piston Stop C. Piston
A. Torque Link
B. Nuts
C.
D.
Brake Hose
Guides
*Free the brake hose from its guides.
124 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
*Loosen the lcft and right chain adjuster locknuts, and fully loosen b o t h chain adjuster bolts.
Wheel Installation:
*Wipe out old gl-case and apply a little grease t o the 0 ring on the rcar h u b (Fig. G 4 0 ) .
*Remove the wedge f r o m between the brake pads, and pull the rcar axle o f f the calipcr holder and the swing arm.
*Slip back the rcar wheel. Be sure the coupling sleeve is i n place.
*Put the caliper on the disc so that the disc is between the pads, and run the axle through the right chain adjuster (fdcing the alignment mark side t o the right), caliper, collar, rcar hub, coupling sleeve, coupling, coupling collar, and l c f t chain adjustcr (facing the alignment mark t o the left). Then screw on the axle nut.
A. Chain Adjuster
B. Adjusting Bolt
C. Locknut
D. Axle N u t
E. Chain Adjuster Stop
F. Stop Bolt
.
, push the wheel forward so that the chain can be easily removed f r o m the rear sprocket.
*Remove the bolts and lockwashers ( 2 ea) and take o u t the chain adjuster stops.
*Remove the drive chain f r o m the rear sprocket, and hang it t o the left side o f the swing arm.
*Pull the rear wheel together with the rear caliper to- ward the rear.
*Remove the axle n u t and left chain adjuster. Then pull o f f the axle with the right chain adjuster.
*Remove the rear wheel.
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc. Place blocks under the wheel so the disc does not touch the ground.
*Run the axle through the swing arm and the caliper t o prevent the caliper f r o m dangling.
A. Collar
B. Caliper
C. Chain Adjuster
D.
E.
Alignment Mark
Rear Axle
*Put the rcar wheel i n t o the swing arm end, and install the chain adjuster stops (2). Tighten the bolts (2) with lockwashers (2).
A. Rear Caliper B. Axle
*Insert a wood wedge ( 7 - 8 m m t h i c k ) between the disc brake pads. This prevents them f r o m being moved out o f their proper position, should the brake pedal be pushed accidentally.
A. Chain Adjuster Stop
B. Stop Bolt
C. Axle Nut
D. Drive Chain
*Fit the drive chain o n t o the rear sprocket.
*Adjust the drive chain (Pg. 28).
* I f the caliper was removed, check the fluid level in the master cylinder, and bleed the brake line ( P g 205).
*Check the rear brake.
Rear Wheel
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 125
D O not attempt t o drive the motorcycle until a full brake pedal is obtained by pumping the brake pedal until the pads are against the disc. The brake will not function o n the first application of the pedal if this is not done.
Wheel Coupling, Rear Sprocket Removal:
.Install the rubber damper and wheel coupling tempo- rdrily on the rear hub t o aid i n rear sprocket removal.
*Straighten the bent portions o f the double washers 24
(2).
*Remove the rear 5procket nuts 25 (4) and the double washers (2) t o separate the rear sprocket 21 dnd wheel coupling i s .
@Remove the rear sprocket and remove the coupling f r o m the rear wheel.
*Pull o u t the coupling collar 19 f r o m the left, and the coupling sleeve 14 from the right.
1 . Brake Disc
2 . Rear Wheel (Hub)
3 . Axle
4. Rubber Damper-
5. Collar
6. Grease Seal
7. Circlip
8. Bearing
9. Bolt
10. Distance Collar
15. Wheel Coupling
16. Bearing
17. Circlip
1 6. Grease Seal
19. Coupling Collar
20. Drive Chain
2 1. Rear Sprocket
22. Axle N u t
23. Cotter Pin
24. Double Wa5her
25. N u t
*Using a hook, pull out the grease seal I 8 and remove the circlip 1 7
.
A. Wheel Coupling B. Grease Seal
126 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
.Using the bearing driver and driver holder (special tools) or some other suitable tool, remove the bearing
6 by tapping from the wheel side.
A. Bearing Driver Holder (57001-139)
B. Bearing Driver (57001-288)
Wheel Coupling, Rear Sprocket
Installation Notes:
1. Inspect
195). the bearing, and replace if necessary (Pg.
L ~ b r i c a t e it using the wheel bearing driver and the bearing driver holder (special tools).
A. Rear Sprocket
B. Tooth Number
C. Sprocket N u t
D. Double Washer
Bearing, Brake Disc Removal:
Do not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc. Place blocks under the wheel so the disc does not touch the ground.
.Remove the wheel coupling.
.Pull out the collar 5 from the disc side.
.Remove the disc mounting bolts 9 the disc E .
(4), and take o f f
.Remove the grease seal 1 6 using a hook, and remove the circlip 2.
A. Bearing Driver Holder (57001-139)
B. Bearing Driver (57001-289)
Replace the grease seal with a new one using the suitable driver. Press the seal in until the face of the seal i s level with the end o f the grease seal hole.
Apply a little grease to the grease seal lip.
Install the rear sprocket with the numbered side facing out. After tightening the sprocket nuts to
4.0 kg-m (29 ft-lbs) o f torque, bend the tab portions o f the double washers over the nuts.
A. Rear Hub
Bearing Removal
B. Grease Seal
R rn
.Insert a metal rod i n t o the h u b f r o m the coupling side, and remove the right side bearing _s b y tapping evenly around the bearing inner race.
*Remove the remaining bearing 12 b y tapping evenly around the bearing inner race. The distance collar lo come out with the bearing.
Bearing, Brake Disc lnstallation Notes:
1. Before installing the wheel bearings, b l o w any dirt or foreign particles o u t o f the h u b with compressed air t o prevent contamination o f the bearings.
2. lnspect the bearings and replace them i f necessary
(Pg. 195). Lubricate them and install them using the bearing driver and the bearing driver holder
(special tools) so that the bearing shields face out.
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 127
6. After installing the disc, check the disc r u n o u t (Pg.
203).
REAR DISC B R A K E
Removal, installation, disassembly, and assembly o f the rear disc brake is divided as follows:
Pad Removal and lnstallation
Caliper Removal and lnstallation Notes
Caliper Disassembly and Assembly
Master Cylinder Removal and lnstallation Notes
Master Cylinder Disassembly and Assembly
Brake Hose Replacement
NOTE: Refer t o the C A U T I O N (Pg. disc brake information.
11 8) f o r general
Pad Removal:
@Remove the pad cover on the caliper.
A. Bearing Driver Holder (57001-139)
B. Bearing Driver (57001-290)
3. lnspect the grease seal and replace if necessary (Pg.
195). Press it in until it stops at the circlip in the hole using the same special tools used f o r bearing installation.
4. lnspect the 0 ring 1 1 on the rear hub, replace it with a new one if it has deteriorated, and apply a little grease t o the 0 ring.
A. Caliper B. Pad Cover C. Clips
.Remove the clips (21 from the pins (2).
.Holding a t h u m b on the anti-rattle springs t o keep it f r o m f l y i n g off, pull the pins o f f the caliper.
A. B. Grease.
5. Tighten the disc mounting bolts (4) t o 2.3 kg-m
(1 6.5 ft-l bs) o f torque.
A. Anti-rattle Spring B. Pin
*Remove the pads (2) from the caliper.
128 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
Pad Installation:
*Remove the bleed valvc cap, attach clear plastic hosc t o the bleed valve, and run the othcr end o f the hosc i n t o a container.
*Open (loosen) the valve slightly, push both pistons in by hands as far as they will go using a worn pdd, and then close (tighten) the valve. Wipe
LIP any spilled fluid, dnd recap the bleed valvc. The blced valve must be tightened t o 0.80 kg-m (69 in-lbs) o f torque.
A. Spring B. Pin
A. Bleed Valve B. Worn Pad C. Hose
Do not lever the pistons with a screw- @ or warp the disc.
*Insert one o f the pins through the outer wall o f the caliper, the pads, and i n t o the inner wall o f the caliper.
NOTE: Hold the pin by the end w i t h the hole t o insert it.
*Insert the clips through the pins on the right side o f the right pad.
.Instnil the pad cover.
*Since w r n c brdke f l u i d wds lost when the blced valve wns opened, check the fluid level in the master cyl- inder m d bleed the air from the brdkc systcni (Pg.
20 5).
*Push the bleed valvc cap o n t o the valve.
DO not attempt to drive the motor- cycle until a full brake pedal is o b tained by pumping the brake pedal until the pads are against the disc. The brakes will not function on the first application of the pedal if this is not done.
Caliper Removal:
*Rcnio\c the rear wheel (Pg. 123).
*If the callper 1s t o be disas~eniblcd, looser the caliper
Allen bol t s (2).
A. Pads B. Pin C. Hole
A. Allen Bolts B. Rear Caliper
.Install the anti-rattle springs. Be sure that the end o f each spring goes under the installed pin, nnd that the top o f each spring rides on the pad.
*Insert the other pin through caliper and pads pressing down the free end o f ench 5pring so that the pin cnn pass over it.
*Remove the banjo bolt at the caliper, and temporarily secure the end o f the brake hose t o some place higher than the rear brnke reservoir t o prevent fluid loss.
There i s a flat washer on each side o f the hose fitting.
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 129
Caliper Installation Notes:
1. Put a new flat washer on edch side o f the brake hose fitting, and tighten the banjo bolt to 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) o f torque.
2. Tighten the cdliper Allen bolts to 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) of torque.
3. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder and bleed the brake line (Pg. 205).
4. Adjust the drive chain (Pg 28).
A. Banjo Bolt B. Torque Link Nut
.Remove the torque link nut and bolt at the rear end o f cycle.
Rear Caliper
Caliper Disassembly:
.Remove the rear cdli~er
*Remove the pads a; explained in the pad removal section (Pg. 127).
*Remove the Allen bolts 3 (2) and separate the left caliper half 4
.
.
\ t'.G481
.Taking care not to damage the cylinder surfaces, re-
tm
move the fluid seals 5 with a hook.
A. Caliper Halves B. Allen Bolts
.Remove the 0 ring 1 2 (2) and the dust seals 7 around the pistons.
Caliper Assembly:
.Clean the caliper parts with brake fluid or dlcohol
(See CAUTION
-
Pg. 11 8).
*Fit a new fluid seal in place inside each cylinder.
NOTE: I t i s recommended that the rubber pdrts, which are removed, be replaced with new ones.
*Apply brdke fluid to the outside o f cach piston and fluid 5eal, and then push the piston into the cylinder by hand. Take care that neither the cylinder nor the piston skirt are scratched.
*In5tall a new dust seal around cach piston. Check that the dust seals are properly fitted into the grooves in the piston and the callper halvcs.
Caliper Fluid Seal, Dust Seal
,a
A. B. Dust Seals
.Wrap each caliper half with a clean, heavy cloth, and remove each piston 6 by lightly applying compressed
5. Fluidseal 7. Dust Seal air to the brake fluid passage.
13. Caliper (or 4
) TO avoid serious injury, never place your fingers or palm on the piston. I f you
6. Piston I apply compressed air into the caliper, the piston may
.Fit a new 0 ring onto the right caliper half, and install crush your hand or fingers. the left caliper half with the Allcn bolts.
.Tighten the Allen bolts to 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) o f
1 torque. ,m
.Install the pads as explained in the pad installation section (Pg. 128).
.Install the rear wheel (Pg. 1 24).
.Adjust the drive chain (Pg. 28).
.Check the fluid levcl in the master cylinder, and bleed the brake line (Pg. 205).
A. Compressed Air
B. Clean Cloth
C. Piston
Master Cylinder Removal:
.Pull o f f the right side cover.
.Remove the banjo bolt to disconnect the brake hose from the master cylinder. There i s a flat washer on each side o f the hose fitting. Immediately wipe up any brake fluid that spills.
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 131
*Remove the return spring 1 3 and primdry cup 14 by lightly dpplying compressed dir i n t o the outlet holc.
Master Cylinder Assembly:
*Before assembly, clean all parts including the master cylinder with brake fluid or alcohol (See CAUTION
-
Pg. 11 8), and apply brake fluid t o the removed parts and the inner wall o f the cylinder. Take care not to scratch the piston or the inner wall o f the cylinder.
@Put the return spring into the cylinder. The spring seat side must face out.
A. Master Cylinder
B. Banjo Bolt
C. Mounting Bolts
*Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts (2), and free the rear master cylinder from the motorcycle.
Master Cylinder Installation Notes:
1. Use a new flat washer on each side o f the brake hose fitting, and tighten the banjo bolt to 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) of torque. Be sure that the metal pipe comes to the right side of the stop on the master cylinder
(Fig. G58).
2. Bleed thc brake line after master cylinder installation
(Pg. 205).
3. Adjust the rear brakc (Pg. 29).
A. Spring B. Spring Seal C. Primary Cup
*Install the primary cup. Be sure that the primary cup is not installed backward or turned sidewdys after insertion.
Master Cylinder Disassembly:
*Remove the push rod dust cover 1 9 .
*Take o f f the master cylinder cap I and diaphragm
3 , and empty the brake fluid into a suitable container.
*Remove the retaincr I 8 with a thin screwdriver, and pull out the piston stop 17 and piston I5
.
Do not remove the secondary cup (16 from the piston since removal will damage the cup.
Rear Master Cylinder Installation
A. Retainer B. Piston Stop C. Piston
5. Mas'ter Cylinder Body
13. Spring
14. Primary Cup
15. Piston
16. Secondary Cup
17. Piston Stop
18. Retainer
*Install the pi;ton and stop, and with a suitable rod, install the retainer to hold the piston in as far as i t will go.
132 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
Rear Master Cylinder
1. Cap
2. Ring Plate
3 . Diaphragm
4. Reservoir
5. Master Cylinder
Body
6. Gasket
7. Plug
8. Mounting Bolts
9. Flat Washer
10. Hose Fitting
1 1
.
Banjo Bolt
12. Brake Hose
13. Return Spring
14. Primary Cup
15. Piston
16. Secondary Cup
17. Piston Stop
18. Retainer
19. Dust Cover
.20. Push Rod
21. Locknut
22. j o i n t
23. Clevis
24. Flat Washer
25. Cotter Pin
*Fit the diaphragm and the master cylinder cap.
* F i t the push rod dust cover.
Brake Hose Replacement:
*Pump the brake fluid out o f the line as explained in the Maintenance Section
-
Changing the brake fluid,
Pg. 205.
*Remove the banjo bolts at the caliper and the master cylinder, and pull the brake hose out o f the guides (2) on the swing arm and the frame. grommets, and install the brake hose fittings on the caliper and master cylinder. Use a new flat washer for each side of the fittings.
*Be sure that the metal pipe i s to the right o f the stop on the master cylinder, and tighten the banjo bolts to
3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) o f torque.
A. Metal Pipe
B. Master Cylinder
C. Stop
D. Banjo Bolt
E. New Flat Washers
*Fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid, and bleed the brake line (Pg. 205).
TIRES, TUBES
Removal
:
.Remove the wheel froln the motorcycle (Pg. 11 5 or
123).
D o not lay the wheel on the ground with the disc facing down. This can damage or warp the disc.
.Remove the disc(s).
.Mark the valve stem position on the tirc with chalk so that the tire will be reinstalled in the same position to maintain wheel balance.
.Take out the valve core to let out the air.
.Remove the valve stem nut, and fully loosen the two bcad protector nuts.
N O T E : Front tire has not tire bead protectors.
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 133
.Remove thc tubc when one Gdc o f the tirc i s pried off.
.Pry the tire o f f one of the bead protcctors and then pry the other side o f the tire o f f the rim.
Installation:
.Put just enough ail- in the tube to keep i t from g e ~ t i n g caught between the tire and rim. T o o much air makes fitting difficult, and too little will make the tube more liable to be pinched by the irons. Dust the tubc and inside the tire with talcum powder, and insert the tube into the tire now, even i f the tirc was completely removed from the rim. Insert the valve stcm i n t o the rim, and screw the nut on loosely.
.Lubricate the tire beads and rim flanges with a soap and water solution or liquid soap to help seat the tire bcads in the rim while inflating the tire.
.If the tire was completely removed, pry one side back onto the r i m and f i t the bead protcctors i n t o the tire.
Be sure that the tirc does not go on backwards; the rear tire has an arrow molded into the sidewall t o show the direction of tirc rotation. Align the chalk mark on the tire with the valve stem.
N O T E : I f a new tirc is installed, the yellow paint mark on the tire should be aligned with the valve stem for best balancing results.
A. Bead Protector N u t B. Valve Stem N u t
.Use a rubber mallet to break the tire beads away from both sides of the rim.
.Install the rim protectors (special tool) on the rim flange near the valvc stcm, and lubricate the tirc bcads, rim flanges, rim protectors, and tire irons with a soap and water solution or liquid soap.
.Step on the sidc o f the tirc opposite the valve stcm, and start prying the tire o f f the r i m near the valve stem with tirc irons. Take care not to insert the tire irons so deeply that the tube gets damaged.
N O T E : For easier removal, always position the tire bead opposite the valve stcm in the rim well, and pry the tire bead a little at a time.
A. Arrow Mark
A. Tire Irons B. R i m Protectors (57001-1 0 6 3 )
B. Yellow Paint Mark
.Pry the other side o f the tire onto the rim, starting at the sidc opposite the valve. Take care not t o insert the tirc irons so deeply that the tube gets damaged.
.Check that the tubc is not pinched between the tire and rim, and then inflate to the specified pressure
(Pg. 194).
.Tighten the bcad protector nuts and valve stcm nut, and put on the valve cap.
.Install the disc(s), and tighten the disc mounting bolts to 2.3 kg-m (1 6.5 ft-lbs) of torque.
.Balance the wheel (Pg. 31 ).
.Mount the whcel on the motorcycle (Pg. 1 15 or 124).
.Adjust the drive chain (Pg. rcmovcd.
28), i f the rear whcel was
134
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
C L U T C H CABLE
Removal:
.
.Remove the cotter pin, and disconnect the t i p o f the clutch cable from the clutch release lever.
. the clutch cable to the frame down tube with the clamp.
.Adjust the clutch (Pg. 22).
T H R O T T L E CABLES
Removal
:
*Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
*Screw i n fully the locknuts and adjusting nuts at the upper end of the throttle cables so as t o give the cables plenty o f play.
Removing the throttle cables from the carburetors without enough cable play, may cause throttle cable damage.
A. Clutch Release Lever
R. Clutch Cable
C. Cotter Pin
D. Spring
*Loosen the locknut on the clutch lever, and screw i n the adjuster.
*Line up the slots in the clutch lever, locknut, and ad- juster and free the cable from the lever.
*Pull the cable free from the motorcycle with the clamp.
A. Cable Elbows C. Locknuts
.Loosen the throttle cable adjuster mounting nuts (2 ea) fully, remove the accelerator throttle cable adjuster from its bracket, and slip the tip o f its inner cable out o f the pulley. Then do the same with the decel- erator throttle cable.
A. Clutch Cable B. Clamp
Installation:
NOTE: Before installing the clutch cable, lubricate it.
*Run the upper end of the cable between the left fork leg and the head pipe t o the clutch lever.
*Fit the tip o f the cable back into the clutch lever.
.Run the lower end of the clutch cable between the left down tube and the lower part o f the engine into inner cable into the clutch release lever.
.Using a new cotter pin, secure the cable tip to the release lever.
.Install the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
A. Accelerator Throttle Cable
B. Decelerator Throttle Cable
C. Cable Adjusters
D. Adjuster Mounting Nuts
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 135
*Loosen both cable elbow nuts, and pull out the cables through the right cable guide on the stem head.
*Remove the right switch housing screws ( 2 ) ) and open the housing.
.Slip both throttle cable tips from their catches in the throttle grip.
A. Accelerator Cable Elbow
B. Right Switch Housing
C. Starter Button
A. Throttle Cable Tips
B. Catches
C. Throttle Grip
*Unscrew the decelerator throttle cable elbow (the elbow next to the starter button), and pull the cable out o f the right switch housing. Then do the same with the accelerator throttle cable elbow t o free the throttle cables from the motorcycle.
*Screw i n the decelerator cable elbow almost all the way, and then lightly tighten the elbow nut.
*Run the accelerator throttle cable through the right cable guide on the stem head, between the left fork leg and the head pipe t o the carburetors.
*Run the decelerator throttle cable through the right cable guide on the stem head, between the right f o r k leg and the head pipe to the carburetors.
NOTE: The cables should be naturally routed, neither one twisted about the other.
*Turn the throttle grip so that the cable catches are facing up, f i t the accelerator throttle cable tip i n the front catch and the other cable t i p i n the rear catch.
*Put together the switch housing, and tighten i t s screws.
The upper half o f the housing has a small projection which fits i n t o a hole in the handlebar. The front switch housing screw i s longer than the rear screw.
Installation:
NOTE: Before installing the throttle cables, lubricate them.
*Screw the accelerator throttle cable elbow (shorter than the decelerator throttle cable elbow) into the side o f the right switch opposite the starter button. Screw it in almost all the way, and then lightly tighten the elbow nut.
A. Accelerator Cable Elbow
B. Decelerator Cable Elbow
A. Switch Housing
B. Small Projection
C. Hole
*Turn each elbow in the direction o f i t s cable, and tighten i t s nut to secure the elbow in the proper position.
136 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
.Fit the t i p of the decelerator throttle cable i n t o the catch in the right pulley, and install its adjuster i n t o the a b l e bracket.
A. Decelerator Throttle Cable
B. Right Pulley
C. Cable Tip
D.
E.
Adjuster
Mounting Nuts
.Fit the t i p o f the accelerator throttle cable into the catch in the left pulley, and install its adjuster i n t o the cable bracket.
A. Speedometer Cable B. Speedometer
.Pull the cable free.
Installation:
.Run the speedometer cable through its guide at the front fender left side, and secure the upper end o f the cable t o the speedometer with pliers.
.Insert the speedometer inner cable i n t o the speed- ometcr gear housing while turning the wheel so that the slot in the end o f the cable will seat in the tongue o f the speedometer pinion. Tighten the cable nut with pliers.
A. Accelerator Throttle Cable
B. Left Pulley
C. Cable Tip
D. Adjuster
E. Mounting Nuts
.Center each adjuster in its place in the brackct, and tighten the mounting nuts.
.Adjust the throttle cables (Pg. 18).
.Install the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
A. Speedometer Cable
SPEEDOMETER CABLE
Removal:
.Disconnect the upper and lower end, o f the speed- ometer cable with pliers.
B. Slot C. Turn.
TACHOMETER CABLE
Removal
:
.Disconnect the upper and lower ends o f the tachometer cable with pliers.
.Free the cable f r o m the motorcycle.
Installation:
.Fit the inner cable i n t o the tachometer, and tighten the cable n u t with pliers.
.Fit the b o t t o m end o f the cable i n t o its place in the cylinder head. Turn i t i f necessary so that i t fits all the way into place, and tighten its nut with pliers.
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 137
There is a gasket between the outer cable and the tachometer pinion holder.
HEADLIGHT UNIT
Removal:
.Take o u t the retaining screws 6 (2), and swing the u n i t I_O' from the housing 3 0 .
*Disconnect the headlight socket 1 1 f r o m the rear o f the unit. For semi-sealed beam units, the bulb can now be removed.
@Remove the pivot screws 7 dampers
, nuts 9
, and rubber a ( 2 ea), and the beam horizontal adjusting screw 2 . A nut 5
, spring seat 4
, and spring 3 come o f f with the adjusting screw.
*Separate the outer r i m
I f r o m the inner rim.
*Remove the scl-ews ( 2 ) , and separate the sealed beam u n i t from the inner r i m and mounting rim.
Installation Notes:
1. Place the sealed bcam u n i t i n t o the mounting rim, fitting the raised portion i n t o its holders on the mounting rim. This ensures that the part o f the sealed bcam u n i t marked "TOP" will bc on top aftcr the headlight u n i t is mounted in the headlight housing.
Headlight, Front T u r n Signal
"TOP" Mark
The spring seat on the adjusting screw goes between the spring and the bracket.
Cdrry o u t horizontal beam adjustment aftcr installa- tion (Pg. 32).
INDICATOR LIGHTS (Left and Right Turn,
High Beam, Neutral)
Removal:
@Remove the mounting screws (2) and take o f f the upper cover.
1. Rim
2. Adjusting Screw
3. Spring
4. Spring Seat
5. N u t
6. Retaining Screw
7. Pivot Screw
8. Rubber Damper
14. Flat Washer
15. Loc kwasher
16. N u t
17. Screw
18. Gasket
19. Lens
20. Rubber Gasket
21. Turn Signal Bulb
22. Turn Signal Housing
23. City Light Bulb
24. City Light Bulb
Socket
25. Bolt
26. Flat Washer
27. Turn Signal Lead
28. Plug
29. Grommet
30. Headlight Housing
31. Damper
32. Stay
33. Flat Washer
34. Lockwasher
35. N u t
138 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
oPres3 the bulb inwards, and holding the bulb i n this position, twist i t to the left and pull it out.
A. Upper Cover 6. Bulb Holder C. Bulb
.Pull the indicator light bulb o u t the bulb holder.
.To remove the indicator light bulb, first press the bulb inwards, then holding the bulb in this position, twist i t t o the left and pull i t out. d
A. Bulb
B. Press.
C. Twist.
D. Pull out.
.Install a new 1 2 volt bulb o f the correct wattage (see the wiring diagram).
*Fit the rubber gasket i n place, i f removed, and install thc Icns. Be careful not to overtighten the mounting scrcws. Each screw has a plastic washer.
A. Bulb
B. Press.
C. Twist.
D. Pull out.
Installation Note:
.Use the bulbs shown in Table G2 for indicator light replacement. Also, refer to the table for light location by lead color. Example: The right turn signal socket takes the bulb with Black/Yellow and gray leads.
I
1
Table G2 lndicator Lights
I
Indicator Lights
(
Lcad Color
Brown, Light Grcen
Rcd/Black, Black/Yellow
I
12V
3.4W
Neutral
High Bcam
Left Turn Signal Green, Black/Ycllow
1
Right Turn Signal
I
Gray. Black/Ycllow
I
T U R N S I G N A L ASSEMBLYS
Removal (front, either side):
@Take out the retaining screws (2), pull the bottom of the headlight unit out o f its housing, and swing the unit out from the housing.
@Disconnect the headlight sockct, and pull out the city light lead3 from the rear of the unit.
.Disconnect the turn signal lead in the headlight housing. eRemovc the mounting nut, and pull the front turn signal from the front fork cover stay.
T U R N SIGNAL LIGHTS
Bulb Replacement:
@Remove the lens mounting screws, and take o f f the lens.
A. Mounting N u t
B. Turn Signal Lead
C. Turn Signal
Installation Notes (front,
either
side):
1. I f the front turn signal dampers have been removed, install them as shown in Fig. G75.
2. Connect the turn signal leads referring to Table G3.
Table G3 Turn Signal Lead Color
Right
Left
I
Turn Signal Lead
- r
Main Wiring Harness Lead
Green or Gray
.,
Gray
Black/Yellow BlackIYcllow
Green or Gray
*+
Grcen
Black/Ycllow Black/Yellow
3. Adjust the headlight vertically.
Removal (rear, either side):
.Unlock the seat and swing i t open.
.Remove the rear fender cobcr bolts (2), lockwashers
( 2 ) , and flat washers (2), and rcmovc the fender cover.
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 139
.Disconnect the turn signal lead.
A. Turn Signal Lead
B. Mounting N u t
C. Turn Signal
.Remove the mounting nut and lockwdsher, and pull the rear turn signal from thc framc.
Installation Notes (rear, either side):
1. I f the rear turn signal dampers have been removed, install them as illustrated in Fig. G82.
2. Connect the turn signal leads according to Table G3. A. Rear Fender Cover
Rear Turn Signal
B. Bolts
I
I ?
1
Y
1. Housing
2. Stay
3. Turn Signal Lead
4. Rubber Damper
5. Rubber D a m ~ e r
6. Collar
7. Ground Lead
8. Lockwasher
9. Nut
10. Bolt
1 1 . Flat Washer
12. Flat Washer
13. Lockwasher
14. Nut
17. Lens
18. Gasket
19. Screw
140 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
-
METER LIGHTS, INDICATOR
LIGHTS (Oil, Stop Lamp)
Removal:
.Disconnect thc upper end o f the speedomcter cdble and tachometer cable with pliers.
.Remove the cap nuts from the bottom o f the meter.
Table G4 Meter and Indicator Lights
Bulb
Wattage
Lights Lead Color
12V
3.4W
Spcedomcter
Tachomctcr
Oil
Stop Lamp
Brown/White, Black/Yellow
Blue, Black/Yellow
Blue/Red, Brown
Green/White, Brown
3. There arc two rubber dampers between the meter and meter bracket.
A. Speedometer
B. Tachometer
C. Cap Nuts
.Pull up thc speedometer and tachomcter, pull the meter lights and indicator lights, and rcmove the meters.
A. Meter
B. Rubber Dampers
C. Meter Bracket
D. Cover
A. Tachometer
B. Meter Lights
C. Indicator Lights
.To remove the meter light bulb or indicator light bulb, first press the bulb inward, then holding the bulb in this position, twist i t to the left and pull it out (Fig.
G77).
Place the meter so that the correct side of the meter i s up. I f a meter i s left upside down or sideways for any length of time it will malfunction.
Installation Notes:
1. Use 12V 3.4W bulb for meter light replacement.
2. Refer to the table for light location by lead color.
TAILIBRAKE L I G H T
Bulb Replacement:
.Remove the lens mounting screws, and take o f f the lens.
.Press the bulb inwards, and holding the bulb in this position, twist i t to the left and pull it out.
--
A. TailIBrake Light Bulb
B. Press.
C. Twist.
D. Pull out.
1 2 volt bulb of the correcl wattage (see the wiring diagram).
.Fit the rubber garkot in place, rf rcmovcd, and ~nstnll the lens. Be careful n o t t o ovcrt~ghtcn the mounting screws.
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
141
* I n i t d l the hcadhght unlt (Pg. 117).
*Adlust the heidlight (Pg. 32).
I G N I T I O N SWITCH
Removal:
*Open the headlight housing, m d free the headlight unit f r o m the motorcycle (Pg. 137).
.Disconnect the ignition switch wiring harness socket frorn the plug (6-pin) i t connects t o in the hcddlight housing m d pu5h the socket o u t o f the housing.
.Remove the front turn 5igndi mounting nuts rcmovc thc left m d right turn signdl ,l,scmblies.
*Tdke out the screws from the b o t t o m o f the indicator light panel, and remove the lower cover dnd rubbcr dampers.
F R O N T B R A K E L I G H T SWITCH
Removal:
.Remove the headlight unit (Pg. 137).
.Disconnect the front brakc light switch b r o w n and blue leads in the headlight housing, and pull the leads o u t o f the housing.
*Using a thin-bladed scrcwdrivcr or some other suitable tool, press i n the front brake light switch tab which catches in the hole in thc underside o f the master cylinder, and then remove the switch.
A. Front Brake Light Switch B. Tab
A. Lower Cover
B. Screws
C. Indicator Panel
D. Ignition Switch
E. Allen Bolts
.Remove the rubbcr dampcr and indicator panel.
.Remove the Allen bolts (2), and p ~ l l l o u t ignition switch.
REAR B R A K E L I G H T SWITCH
Removal
: mRcmovc the rear brake light switch spring f r o m the switch.
Installation:
.Fit the ignition switch in place, and tighten the Allen bolts and lockwashers. elnstall the indicator light panel with its rubber dampcr so that the damper projection fits i n t o the bracket hole.
.Install the rubber dampers and lower cover, and tighten the scrcws (2).
C o n n e c t the ignition switch wiring harness socket t o i t s plug i n the headlight housing.
.Instal\ the left and right turn signal assemblies (Pg.
138).
A. Rear Brake Light Switch
B. Mounting Nuts
C. Spring
142 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
.Remove the right side cover, and disconnect the blue and brown leads from the rear brake light switch.
.Loosen the lower mounting nut fully, and remove the rear brake light switch.
Installation Note:
.Adjust the switch after installation (Pg. 30).
STARTER LOCKOUT SWITCH
Removal
:
*Open the headlight housing, and free the headlight unit from the motorcycle (Pg. 137).
*Disconnect the starter lockout switch lead connections i n the headlight housing, and pull these leads out o f the housing.
.Using a thin-bladed screwdriver or some other suitable tool, press in the starter lockout switch tab which catches i n the hole in the clutch holder, and then remove the switch.
A. Adjusting Screw 6 . Locknut
.Loosen the knurled locknut on the clutch lever, and turn in the adjuster and line up the slots in the clutch lever, locknut, and adjuster. Free the inner cable from the lever.
A. Starter Lockout Switch B. Tab
A. Clutch Cable
B. Adjuster
C. Knurled Locknut
D. Clutch Lever
.Remove the straps which hold the left switch wiring harness and right switch wiring harness to the handle- bar.
.Take out the left switch housing screws (2), and re- move the housing from the handlebar. I f necessary, loosen the clutch lever holder bolt, and slide the clutch lever to the right.
HANDLEBAR
Removal:
.Take o f f the rear view mirrors.
.Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47) or cover it with a thick cloth to avoid damaging the painted surface.
.Loosen the locknut, and turn in fully the adjuster at the center o f the clutch cable t o give the cable plenty o f play.
.Remove the clutch adjusting cover.
.Loosen the locknut, and turn in the clutch adjusting screw a couple o f turns to give the clutch cable plenty o f play. A. Left Switch Housing
.Remove the right switch housing screws (2), and open up the housing.
.Loosen the master cylinder clamp bolts (2).
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 143
A. Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts
B. Right Switch Housing
.Take the starter lockout switch o f f the clutch holder.
.Remove the handlebar clamp bolts and lockwashers
(4 ea), remove the clamps ( 2 ) , and slide the handle- bar from the throttle grip, right switch housing, and master cylinder or front brake lever holder.
A. Handlebar 0. Front Fork
.Install the left switch housing, and tighten i t s screws
(2).
.Put together the right switch housing, and tighten its screws. The upper half o f the housing has a small projection which fits into a small hole in the handle- bar. The front switch housing screw i s longer than the rear screw.
A. Handlebar
B. Handlebar Clamps
C. Clamp Bolts
.To remove the clutch lever, loosen the clutch lever holder bolt, cut o f f the left handlegrip, which i s bond- ed to the handlebar, and slide o f f the clutch lever.
Installation:
.If the clutch lever and left handlegrip were removed; slide the clutch lever back on, hand tighten i t s bolt, and bond a new left handlegrip to the handlebar.
*Slide the right side of the handlebar through the master cylinder or front brake lever holder, and the right switch housing, and into the throttle grip assembly.
.Mount the handlebar, and install the handlebar clamps, lockwashers, and clamp bolts so that the angle of the handlebar matches the angle o f the front fork as shown, and tighten the clamp bolts evenly to 1.8 kg-m (13.0 ft-lbs) o f torque.
A. Right Switch Housing
0. Projection
C. Hole
.With the brake lever mounted at the proper angle, tighten first the upper and then the lower master cylinder clamp bolt to 0.90 kg-m (78 in-lbs) of torque.
A. Master Cylinder Clamp B. Tighten first.
144 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
.With the clutch lever mounted at the proper angle, tighten the clutch lever holder bolt.
.Install the starter lockout switch o n t o the clutch holder.
.Strap the left switch housing wiring harness, the right switch housing wiring harness, and the f r o n t brake light switch leads back onto the handlebar.
.Fit the t i p o f the clutch cable back i n t o the clutch lever.
.Install the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
.Check the f r o n t brake (Pg. 29).
*Check the throttle cables (Pg. 18).
.Adjust the clutch (Pg. 22).
*Install the rear view mirrors.
OAdiust the rear view mirrors.
A. 2-way Joint B. Mounting Bolts
.Remove the caliper mounting bolts (2), and remove the calipers together with the master cylinder, upper brake hose, 2-way joint, and lower brake hoses.
.Loosen the stem head clamp boit, and then remove the stem head bolt, flat washer, and lockwasher.
S T E E R I N G STEM
Removal:
.Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
.Remove the speedometer cable (Pg. 136).
.Remove the front wheel (Pg. 11 5).
*Remove the headlight unit (Pg. 137).
.Disconnect all the leads and plugs i n the headlight housing.
.Remove the left and right turn signal assemblies (Pg.
1 3 8 ) ) and take o f f the headlight housing.
.Remove the handlebar (Pg. 142).
.Remove the right front f o r k upper clamp b o l t and cable guide, and loosen the left front f o r k upper clamp bolt.
A. Stem Head Bolt
B. Flat Washer
C. Lockwasher
D. Clamp Bolt
.Tap lightly o n the b o t t o m o f the stem head with a mallet, and then remove the steering stem head to- gether with the meters and ignition switch.
Place the stem head so that the correct side of the meters are up. If a meter is left upside down or sideways for any length of time, i t will malfunction.
A. Upper Clamp Bolt
B. Cable Guide
C. Throttle Cables
D. Brake Hose
.Disconnect the tachometer cable at the tachometer with pliers.
.Remove the mounting bolts (2) and the 2-way joint. A. Stem Head B. Fork Cover
@Remove the fork covers. Each fork cover has a ring cap at the top, and a stem base cover, damper ring, and rubber damper at the bottom.
@Remove the front fender bolts and lockwashers (4 ea), and take o f f the fender.
*Loosen the lower clamp bolts, and pull out each fork
- -
*Push up on the stem base, and remove the steering stem locknut with the stem nut wrench (special tool); then remove the steering stem and stem base (single unit). As the stem is removed, some o f the steel balls will drop out o f the lower outer race. Remove the rest. There are 20 steel balls in the lower outer race.
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 145
@Run the inner tube of each front fork leg up through its clamp in the stem base. Temporarily tighten the lower clamp bolts on each side to hold each f o r k leg i n place with its inner tube protruding about 200 mm above the steering stem base.
NOTE: Right fork leg has a clamp.
A. Left Fork Leg
B. Right Fork Leg
C. Clamp
@Install the rubber damper, damper ring, base cover, and f o r k cover, ring cap, on each tube in this order.
NOTE: The f o r k covers can be identified as shown.
A. Stem Nut Wrench (57001-1100)
B. Stem Locknut
C. Stem Base
@Remove the steering stem cap, the upper inner race, and the upper steel balls (19).
Installation:
@Apply grease to the upper and lower outer races in the head pipe so that the steel balls will stick in place during stem insertion. Install the upper steel balls (19) and lower steel balls balls arc one size.
(20). All upper and lower steel
4
A. Left Fork Cover
B. Right Fork Cover
C. Short End
D. Long End
A. Steel Balls
@Put on the upper inner race and steering stem cap.
Insert the steering stem into the head pipe, and tighten the steering stem locknut t o 3.0 kg-rn (22 ft-lbs) o f torque.
A. Base Cover
B. Damper Ring
C. Rubber Damper
146 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
.Install the stem head assembly and the stem hend lock- washer and flat washer (flat side facing down). Screw in the stem head bolt loosely. Be sure the wiring har- nesses and all cables go between the stem head and the front fork legs.
.Install one of the calipers on the fork leg. Tighten the caliper mounting bolt, (2) to 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) o f torque.
.Install the 2-way joint with its mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 0.90 kg-m (78 in-lbs) o f torque.
.For each fork leg, loosen the lower clamp, and align the upper end of the front fork inner tube with the upper surface o f the stem head. Tighten the upper clamp bolt t o 1.8 kg-m (13.0 ft-lbs) of torque. The right upper clamp bolt has a cable guide. Run the throttle cables, right switch housing wirings, brake hose, brake light switch leads as shown.
A. Left Side B. Righ t Side C. Hose Guide
.Secure the lower brake hoses in their guides. Be sure the rubber grommets are in dace.
.Install the front wheel (Pg. 1'1 5).
.Install thc speedometer cable (Pg. 136).
.Check the steering and adjust it, i f necessary (Pg. 30).
.Instnll the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
.Check the front brake and bleed the system, i f neces- sary (Pg. 205).
.Adjust the clutch (Pg. 22).
.Check the throttle cables and adjust, i f necessary (Pg.
18).
.Adjust the rear view mirrors.
A. Right Upper Clamp Bolt
B. Inner Tube Upper End
C. Cable Guide
D. Throttle Cables
E. Right Switch Housing Wirings
F. Brake Hose
G. Brake Light Switch Leads
STEERING STEM BEARINGS
Removal
:
.Remove the steering stem (Pg. 144).
.To remove the outer races pressed into the head pipe, insert a bar into the head pipe, and hammer evenly around the circumference o f the opposite race to drive i t out.
.Tighten the stem head bolt to 4.5 kg-m (33 ft-lbs) of torque and the rear clamp bolt to 1.8 kg-m (1 3.0 ft-l bs) o f torque.
.Tighten the front fork lower clamp b o l ~ s 1.8 kg-m
(1 3.0 ft-lbs) o f torque.
.Fit the tachometer inner cable into the tachometer, and tighten the cable nut with pliers.
.Run the plugs, sockets, and wiring into the headlight housing, and mount the headlight housing.
.Install the left and right front turn signal assemblies
(Pg. 138).
C o n n e c t the plugs, sockets, and leads in the headlight housing. Connect the same color leads to the same color leads.
*Install the headlight unit (Pg. 137).
.Install the front fender and hose guides, and tighten the bolts (4). Each bolt has a lockwasher. A. Outer Race B. Bar
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 147
.Remove the grease wal under the lower inncr race.
Be careful not to damage the grease seal during removal.
.Remove thc lower inner race, which i s pressed onto adapter (spccial tools).
A. Stem Bearing Driver (57001-137) B. Inner Race
.Install the steering stem (Pg: 145).
A. Bearing Puller (57001-135)
B. Adapter (57001-136)
C. Lower lnner Race
installation:
.Apply oil to the outer races, and then drive them into the head pipe using the stem cup driver and the bearing driver holder (special tools). Be sure to press them until they stop at the stepped portion in the head pipe.
FRONT FORK
Removal (each fork leg):
.Remove the mounting bolts, take o f f the only caliper on the fork leg to be removed, and rest the caliper on some kind of stand so that i t does not dangle.
.Remove the front wheel (Pg. 11 5).
.Remove the bolts (4) that hold the front fender to the left fork leg, and remove the fender.
.Loosen the upper and lower front fork clamp bolts.
A. Bearing Driver Holder (57001-139)
B. Stem Cup Driver (57001-138)
.Install the grease onto the steering stem.
.Apply oil to the lower inner race, and then drive i t onto the steering stem using the stem bearing driver and adapter (spccial tools). Be sure to press i t until i t stops at the stem base.
A. Upper Clamp Bolt B. Lower Clamp Bolts
.With a twisting motion, work the fork leg down and out.
Installation (each fork leg):
.Slide the fork leg up through thc lower and upper clamps until the upper end of the front fork inner tube
148 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
i s even with the upper surface o f the stem head. Tight- en the clamp bolts to 1.8 kg-m (13.0 ft-lbs) o f torque.
*Stop the cylinder I from turning by using the front fork cylinder holder handle and holder adapter (special tools). Unscrew thc Allen bolt 1 1 and gasket I_o from the bottom o f the outer tube 9 or 37 , and then separate the inner tube from the outer tube by pulling
I t out.
A. Upper Clamp Bolt
B. Inner Tube Upper End
C. Stem Head
.Install the front fender and hose guides between the front fork legs. Tighten the bolts (4) with iockwashers
(Fig. G I 09).
*Install the caliper, tightening the caliper mounting bolts t o 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) of torque.
*Secure the lower brake hose in its guide. Be sure the rubber grommet is in place.
*Install the front wheel (Pg. 11 5).
Disassembly:
*Remove the cap 14 from the inner tube.
.Press the top plug 1 6 to remove the top plug retaining ring 1 5 , and then remove the top plug and spring 2 2 .
A. Front Fork Cylinder Holder Handle and Adapter
B. Allen Wrench
.Slide or push the cylinder
I and i t s spring top o f the inner tube.
3 out the
*Remove the dust seal
5 o f f the outer tube 9 .
*Remove the cylinder base 4 out the top o f outer tube.
.Remove the retainer 6 from the outer tube with a sharp hook, and pull out the oil seal 7
. I t may be necessary to heat the outer tube around the oil seal before pulling i t out.
A. Retainer B. Oil Seal
A. Top Plug
B. Retaining Ring
C. Press down.
*Pour the oil into a suitable container, pumping as necessary to empty out all the oil.
Assembly Notes: d ,
apply a non-permanent locking agent to the Allen bolt, and tighten it using the front fork cylinder holder handle and holder adapter (special tools) to stop the cylinder from turning. The torque for the
Allen bolt i s 1.8 kg-m (1 3.0 ft-lbs).
Front Fork
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS 149
C r n )
1. Piston and Cylindel-
Unit
2. Piston Ring
3. Spring
4. Piston Base
5. Dust Seal
6. Retainer
7. Oil Seal
8. Flat Washer
9. Left Outer Tube
10. Gasket
11. Allen Bolt
12. Gasket
13. Drdin Bolt
14. Rubbcr Cap
15. Retainer
16. Top Plug
17.
18. Stem Head
19. Upper Clamp Bolt
20. Ring Cap
21. Left Fork Cover
22. Spring
23, lnner Tube
24. Base Covcr
25. Damper Ring
26. Rubber Damper
27. Lower Clamp Bolt
28. Lockwasher
29. Clamp Bolt
30. Lower lnner Race
31. Grease Seal
32. Flat Washer
33. Steering Stem
34. Stem Base
37. Right Outer Tube
38. Clamp Bolt
39. Nut
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
Replace the oil seal with a new one, apply oil to the outside, and install i t with the front fork oil seal driver (special tool).
A. Front Fork Oil Seal Driver (57001-141)
3. Install the spring 22 with the smaller diameter end facing down.
A. Grab Rail
B. Cap Nut
C. Mounting Bolt
.Remove the cap nut, lockwasher, and flat washer(s).
, ,
The right shock'absorbcr cap nut has two flat washers.
To remove the left shock absorber, also remove the grab rail and flat washer.
.Lift up on the rear wheel as necessary to avoid damaging the shock absorber bolt threads, and remove the shock absorber bolt and lockwasher.
A. Spring B. Smaller Diameter End
A. Mounting Bolt
*Pull o f f the rear shock absorber.
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the drain bolt, and tighten i t to 0.80 kg-m (69 in-lbs) o f torque, i f it was removed.
Refill with 217.5-222.5 cc of fresh SAE 5W20 oil.
Installation Note:
.Tighten the shock absorber bolt and nut to 3.0 kg-m
(22 ft-lbs) o f torque.
R E A R SHOCK ABSORBERS
Removal (each side):
.Set the motorcycle up on i t s center stand.
*Remove the muffler (Pg. 56).
*To remove the left shock absorber, remove the grab rail mounting bolt, and lockwasher.
SWING A R M
Removal:
.Set the motorcycle up on i t s center stand
*Remove the mufflers (Pg. 56).
*Remove the rear wheel (Pg. 123).
*Pull the rear brake hose out o f the guides on the swing arm, remove the torque link rear bolt, and rest the rear caliper on some kind o f stand.
.Remove the bolts, lockwashers, and flat washers (2 ea), and take o f f the chain cover.
DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
151
.Remove the mounting bolt from each shock absorber bottom. A lockwasher comes o f f with the bolt.
.Move the swing arm up and down to check for abnormal friction.
.Remove the pivot shaft nut and pull o u t the pivot shaft.
A. Chain Cover
Swing Arm
B. Bolts A. Pivot Shaft Nut
(rn)
1. Pivot Shaft Nut
2. Cap
3. Needle Bearings
4. Swing Arm
5. Grease Nipple
6. Sleeve
7. Pivot Shaft
8. Torque Link Bolt
9. Lockwasher
10. Nut
11. Torque Link
12. Stop Mounting Bolt
13. Lockwasher
14. Chain Adjuster Stop
15. Chain Adjuster
16. Locknut
17. Adjusting Bolt
152 DISASSEMBLY-CHASSIS
@Pull back the swing arm. A cap on each side o f the pivot will also drop o f f .
Installation:
@Install the cap on each end o f the p i v o t o f the swing arm, and p u t the left side o f the swing arm through the drive chain loop.
@Position the pivot o f the swing arm i n t o its place i n the frame, and slide i n the pivot shaft f r o m the right t o left.
@Install the pivot shaft n u t and tighten the n u t t o
8.0 kg-m (58 ft-lbs) o f torque.
@Install the rear shock absorber bolts and lockwashers, tighten each bolt t o 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) o f torque.
@Install the rear wheel (Pg. 124).
@Install the mufflers (Pg. 57).
*Adjust the drive chain (Pg. 28).
A. Torque Link
B. Welded Side
C. Torque Link Bolt
4. Adjust the drive chain (Pg. 28) after installing the swing arm.
Disassembly:
NOTE: As the swing arm needle bearings will be dam- aged upon removal, be sure t o have new ones o n hand prior t o disassembly.
@Take o u t the torque link n u t 19 and b o l t , and then remove the torque link I I f r o m the swing arm 4
.
@Pull o u t the swing arm sleeve 6
.
@Insert a bar into one side, hammering on them lightly t o k n o c k o u t the needle bearings 3 on the opposite side.
D R I V E C H A I N
Removal:
The chain must not be cut for installation, as this may result in subsequent chain failure and loss of control.
@Remove the mufflers (Pg. 56).
@Remove the engine sprocket (Pg. 71).
@Remove the rear wheel (Pg. 123).
*Remove the swing arm (Pg. 150) and take o f f the chain.
Installation:
@Install the swing arm (Pg. 152).
@Install the rear wheel (Pg. 124).
@Install the engine sprocket (Pg. 71).
@Install the mufflers (Pg. 57).
@Adjust the drive chain (Pg. 28).
A. Bar B. Needle Bearing
@Use the bar again t o knock o u t the other bearings.
Assembly Notes:
Inspect the swing arm sleeve (Pg. 21 2), and replace it w i t h a new one if it has worn past the service l i m i t or is damaged. Also, replace all needle bearings whenever the sleeve is replaced.
Replace the needle bearings with new ones i f any one has been damaged or removed. Apply oil t o the out- side surface o f the bearings before installing them w i t h a press.
Install the torque l i n k so that the welded side faces in.
After installation tighten the torque l i n k n u t t o 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-lbs) o f torque.
MAINTENANCE-ENG INE 153
Maintenance- Engine
Table
of
Contents
AIR CLEANER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
FUEL TANK. FUEL TAP
CARBURETOR
Starter System
Pilot System
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mainsystem
Floatsystem
158
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
159
161
CAMSHAFT
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
162
CAMSHAFT CHAIN. GUIDE. TENSIONER
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
164
CYLINDER HEAD. VALVE
CylinderHead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Valve. Valve Guide, Valve Seat
Valvespring
OilSeal
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
164
166
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
CYLINDER BLOCK, PISTON
CRANKSHAFT. CONNECTING ROD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175
SECONDARY SHAFT
PRIMARY CHAIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
CLUTCH
TRANSMISSION
ShiftMechanism
Neutral Locator
182
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Overshift Limiter
ENGINE LUBRICATION
Engineoil Pump
OilFilter
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
188
Oil Pressure Switch. Relief Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
OilBreather . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
BALL BEARING. NEEDLE BEARING
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
192
O I L S E A L
MUFFLER
154 MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
A I R CLEANER
A properly maintained air cleaner ensures that only clean, filtered air i s supplied through the carburetor to the engine. I f the air i s supplied directly without filter- ing, dirt and dust from the air will clog carburetor passages causing the engine to run poorly. The dust that enters the engine will also act like grinding compound, wearing down the cylinders, pistons, and rings. I f the air cleaner element is damaged, the result will be the same as i f no element were used.
An air cleaner element clogged with dirt chokes the air supply to the engine, resulting in an overly rich fuel/ air mixture and inefficient combustion. This in turn causes overheating from carbon build-up, and reduced engine power.
Cleaning and replacement
The air cleaner element must be cleaned periodically
(Pg. 10). In extremely dry, dusty areas, the element will need to be cleaned more often. After riding through rain or on muddy roads, the element should be cleaned immediate1 y.
Remove the air cleaner element (Pg. 49). Clean it in a bath o f a high flash-point solvent, and then dry i t f r o m the inside using compressed air. Since this i s a dry- type element, do not use kerosene or any fluid which would leave the element oily.
Air Cleaner
A. Compressed Air
Clean the element in a well-ventilated
IWdRNINGi
or flame anywhere near the working area. Because of the danger of highly flammable liquids, do not use gasoline or low flash-point solvents to clean the element.
I f the sponge gasket on the side o f the element comes loose, stick it back on with an adhesive sealant.
If the sponge or the element is damaged or holed, re- place the element.
Since repeated cleaning opens the pores of the element, replace i t with a new one in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart (Pg. 10). Also, i f there is a break in the element material or any other damage to the element, replace the element with a new one.
1 . Air Cleaner Duct
2. Air Cleaner Housing
3. Air Cleaner Cap
4. Breather Hose
5. Air Cleaner Element
FUEL TANK, FUEL TAP
The fuel tank capacity i s 15.0 liter,, 1.5 liters o f which forms the reserve supply. A cap i s attached to the top of the tank, and a fuel tap to the bottom. An air vent is provided in the cap to prevent an air lock, which would hinder fuel flow to the carburetol-s.
Fuel tap construction fuel tap i s is shown in Fig. H 3 . The an automatic type which shuts o f f the fucl supply when the engine i s stopped in the ON or RES position. The fuel tap has three positions: ON, RES
(reserve), and PRI (prime). With the tap in the "On" position, fuel flows through the tap by way of the main pipe until only the reserve supply i s left in the tank; with the tap in the "Reserve" position, fuel flows through the tap from the bottom o f the tank. The
"Pri" position by passes the automatic control and i, useful for priming the engine after running out of gas, or for completely draining the tank. The fuel tap contains a filter to filter out dirt.
Fuel Tap
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE 155
The automatic valve in the fucl tap operates as follows: When the engine i s running, negative pressure
(vacuum) i s created at the carburetor due t o engine intake. This engine intake vacuum i s transmitted t o the diaphragm vacuum chamber in the fuel tap through the vacuum hose and the check valve. The vacuum pulls the diaphragm 5 against its spring pressure, and the
0 ring I on the diaphragm assembly 5 i s pulled out of its seat, permitting fuel to flow between the 0 ring and seat. When the engine stops and vacuum i s lost, air enters the diaphrdgm vacuum chamber through the vacuum hose, bringing chamber pressure back up to atmospheric and allowing the diaphragm spring 2 to push the diaphragm back into place and hold the 0 ring against the seat.
The check valve in the diaphragm cover keeps the pressure in the diaphragm vdcuum chamber negative in spite o f the pulsdtion o f the intake vacuum while the cngine i s running so that fuel flows smoothly.
Inspection and cleaning
I f fuel leaks from the tank cap or from around the fuel tap, the cap gasket or tap
Visually inspect these parts, and replace them i f nec- essary.
Examine the air vent in the tank cap t o see i f i t i s obstructed. Use compressed air to clear an obstructed vent.
Any water in the fuel tank and the carburetors can be drained through the drain plugs (Pg. 24). I f water cannot be drained completely by loosening the drain plugs, remove the fuel tap (Pg. 47), and flush o u t the tank with a high flash-point solvent. For thorough cleaning o f the carburetors, remove and disassemble the carburetors (Pg. 49).
I f there i s any doubt dbout the condition o f the fuel tap, remove and disassemble the fuel tap (Pg. 47), and inspect the parts. Especially examine the diaphragm as- undamaged; i f the 0 ring i s prevented f r o m seating properly or i f i t i s damaged, fuel flow will n o t stop when the enginc i s stopped, and may overflow from the carburetors. Visually inspect the diaphragm. I f there i s any tear or other damage, the diaphragm as- sembly should be replaced.
1. 0 Ring
2. Spring
3. Vacuum
4. Fuel
5. Diaphragm
6. Drain Plug
7. Filter
8. 0 Ring
9. Tap Lever
A. Diaphragm
B. "0" Ring Seat
C.
156 MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
Clean the air and fuel passages by lightly applying compressed air to the passage openings.
D o not use wire for cleaning as this could damage the check valve, diaphragm mating surfaces.
CARBURETOR
The carburetors perform the function of mixing the fuel and air in the proportions necessary for good engine performance at varying speeds and loads. I n order for them t o function satisfactorily, they must be properly adjusted and maintained. The throttle cable adjustment, idling adjustment, and synchronizing adjustment are
Carburetor Constructions m covered in the Adjustment Section. The discussion here concerns the fundamentals o f carburetor operation, fuel level adjustment, and cleaning and replacement of carburetor parts.
A linkage mechanism opens each carburetor throttle valve the same amount in response to throttle grip move- ment so that the carburetors operate in unison. As the throttle grip i s turned counterclockwise, the throttle accelerator cable turns the carburetor pulley. Through the linkage mechanism the pulley opens the throttle valves. As the throttle grip i s turned clockwise or is released, the linkage mechanism return spring, together with the throttle decelerator cable, closes the throttle valves.
One o f the basic principlies in carburetor operation i s that the pressure exerted by a moving body o f air i s less than atmospheric pressure. As the engine draws air in through the carburetor bore, the air pressure in the carburetor bore i s less than the air pressure in the float chamber, which i s vented to the atmosphere. This difference in air pressure forces fuel up through the passages into the carburetor bore, where i t i s atomized by the high-speed air flowing into the engine.
Another important principle i s the Venturi Principle, which states that when an air passage narrows, moving air flows faster, exerting even less pressure. For example, especially at lower speeds the amount o f the cutaway on the throttle valve makes use o f this principle in determining the speed, and thus the pressure, of the air passing below it.
The amount o f fuel passing through a jet depends both on the size o f the jet and on the speed of the air flow over the jet. The speed o f this air flow i s in turn determined both by the engine rpm and by the dimen- sions o f the passage (varied with the throttle valve) just above the jet. The size o f the jet openings, the various dimensions o f the air passages, and the engine rpm are correlated through carburetor design so that, when properly adjusted, the carburetor meters
(measures) the fuel and air in the correct proportions at different throttle openings.
The ratio o f fuel to air at different throttle openings i s set through carburetor design by a number o f inter- relating factors.
1. Throttle Arm
2. Throttle Valve
3. Jet Needle
4. Needle j e t
5. Pilot j e t
6. Air Screw
7. Float
8. Float Bowl
1 1
9. Drain Plug
10. Top Cover
11. Choke Lever
12. Choke Valve
13. Main Air Jet
14. Float Valve
15. Main j e t
16. Overflow Pipe
0 - 1 /8 throttle
1 /8 pilot screw -
1 /4 throttle throttle valve cutaway, pilot screw
114-314 throttle
314- 1 throttle jet needle position main j e t size
The carburetor specifications (Table H4) have been chosen for best all around performance.
Carburetor trouble can be caused by dirt, wear, mal- adjustment, or improper fuel level in the float chamber.
A dirty or damaged air cleaner can also alter the fuel-to- air ratio.
Table HI Mixture Trouble Simptoms
Poor running
Overheating
Exhaust smokes excessively
The following explanation o f the functioning and maintenance o f the carburetors covers the four main systems for fuel regulation and supply.
Starter System
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE 157 m
Table HZ Carburetor Systems
System
Starter System
Pilot System
Main System
Float System
Function
Supplies the necessary rich mixture for starting a cold engine.
Supplies fuel at idling and l o w speeds.
Supplies fuel at medium and high speeds.
Maintains the fuel at a constant level in the float chamber. d
1. To prevent damage or deterioration of the rubber or plastic parts, remove as many rubber or plastic parts from the carburetor
(Table H3) as possible before cleaning the carburetor with a cleaning solution.
2. D o not use wire for cleaning as this could damage the jets.
3. T o prevent damage to the float, remove the float bowl and the float when blowing the carburetor clean with compressed air.
Table H3 Carburetor Rubber Parts or Plastic Parts
I
Parts
I
Quantity
1
Removable
I
Breather Hose 3-wav l o i n t
1
2
1
Ye,
I
1
I
Float
1
4
1 yes
1
I
L i n k Shaft End Rubber Cap
/
2
1
Yes
I
I
L i n k Shaft Dust Seal
1
6
/
Yes
I
4 Bleed Pipe 0 Ring Yes
8 Drain Plug 0 Ring Yes
Fuel Hose J o i n t Pipe
Pilot Screw 0 Ring
Breather Hose
Breather Hose J o i n t Hose
Fuel Hose
I
Overflow Tube
Vacuum Hose
1 2
4
2
Yes
Yes
Yes
2 Yes
1 Yes
1
4
1
Yes
1 Yes
1
I
Starter System
Fig. H5 shows the starter system, which includes the choke lever, choke valve 3 , relief valve 4 , idling cam, and idling link.
The starter system provides the exceptionally rich fuellair ratio that is necessary t o enable easy starting when the engine i s cold. When starting the engine, the choke valves close down the carburetor bores by pulling up the choke lever. Since the choke valves close down
Table H4 Carburetor Specifications
Type
K22P-2A
M a n Jet
MO
J e t Needle
M C 9 1 - 2
Pilot J e t d 3 2
1 . Choke Lever
2. Fast Idle Cam
Pilot Screw
1 l/8
*
I/L?
Throttle Valve
Cutaway
2.5
3. Choke Valve
4. Relief Valve the carburetor bores, a high intake vacuum (suction or l o w pressure) i s developed at the engine side o f the carburetor bores. The relief valves on the choke valves are opened by a high intake vacuum, and air is drawn i n t o the carburetor bores. As thc engine is cranked over, fuel is drawn in from the float chamber through the main jets and pilot jet. This fuel is then drawn i n t o the carburetor, mixed with the air drawn relief valve, and drawn i n t o the engine. in through the
The engine must be run at a faster than normal idle speed t o prevent the engine from stalling u n t i l i t reaches operating temperature. T o accomplish this, the fast idling cam pushes the idling link when the choke lever is pulled up, and the throttle valve is held open an amount sufficient t o prevent stalling.
In order for the starter system t o work properly, the choke lever must be pushed u p fully so that the choke valve will be kept closed and sufficient vacuum can be built up at the engine o f the carburetor bore. Clogged
Design
Fuel Level
Service
29.5 ? 1 m m 3.5 2 1 m m
158 MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
Fast Idle Mechanism
When choke lever i s pushed down. pilot jet, main jets, pilot air jet, and main jet bleed pipe will cause insufficient atomization, thus impairing starter efficiency. Fuel mixture trouble results i f choke linkage mechanism, pilot and main system i s defective. A damaged relief valve will cause insufficient vacuum, thus impairing starter system efficiency. Fuel mixture trouble results if the choke valve does not open fully after the choke lever i s returned.
When choke lever is pulled up.
Pilot System
Fig. H9 shows the pilot system, which includes the pilot jet 3
, pilot outlet T , and pilot air screw 4
.
Pilot System
Cleaning and inspection (See cautions on Pg. 157)
Disassemble the carburetor, and wash the main jet, pilot jet, main jet bleed pipe, air jet, and air passage with a high flash-point solvent, blowing them clean with com- pressed air. I f necessary, use a bath o f automotive type carburetor cleaner.
Pull up and push down the choke lever to check that the choke valves move smoothly. The choke valves must close the carburetor bores completely when the lever is pulled up, and must open fully when the lever i s pushed down. I f necessary, adjust the choke linkage (Pg. 53).
T o check that the relief valve spring i s working properly, push on the relief valve itself. The relief valve must move smoothly, and must close by spring tension.
I f the choke valve or the relief valve does not work properly, replace the carburetor body.
A. Choke Valve B. Relief Valve C. Spring
3. Pilot Jet
4. Air Screw
5. Spring
6. Pilot Air Passage
I f
Pilot System Fuel and Air Supply
Air
Cleaner
I I
Air Screw
25
Engine
The pilot system determines the operation o f the car- buretor from 0 to % throttle opening. A t these small throttle openings, almost no fuel i s drawn through the main system due to insufficient air flow. Instead, the fuel i s drawn through the pilot jet as a result o f the low pressure (suction) brough about by the demand for air by the engine and the limited but relatively fast flow of air past the pilot outlet.
The supply o f the fuel and air in the pilot system is shown in Fig. H I 0. Fuel is metered by the pilot jet.
I t mixes with air controlled by the pilot air screw, and flows through the pilot passage.
A t the idling position the throttle valve restricts the carburetor bore air flow, preventing i t from relieving the low pressure around the pilot outlet created by the engine's suction, while the venturi effect (i.e., the narrower the air passage, the faster the f l o w o f air) at the engine side of the throttle valve further reduces the low pressure.
Once the throttle valve rises, i t no longer concentrates the low pressure area around just the pilot outlet.
Fig. H I 1 shows throttle valve opening versus fuel flow for the main and pilot systems. I f trouble occurs in gTrJ
Flow Characteristic rn
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE 159 the pilot system, not only are starting and l o w speed running affected, but the transition from pilot to main system is not smooth as the throttle i s opened, causing a drop in acceleration efficiency. Pilot system trouble might be due to maladjustment; a dirty or loose pilot jet; or clogging of the pilot outlet passage, p i l o t jet passage, or pilot air passage.
Pilot Jet
Cleaning and replacement
(See cautions on Pg. 157)
Wash the pilot jet with a high flash-point solvent, and blow i t clean with compressed air. Also use com- pressed air to clean the pilot outlet passage and air passage.
Remove the pilot air screw, and check that the taper- ed portion i s not worn or otherwise deformed. I f i t is, replace the screw. I f the screw 0 is damaged, re- place the
A. Pilot Screw C. Tapered Portion
Main System
Fig. H I 3 shows the main system, which consists of the main jet I@
, bleed pipe l o and needle jet 6
, jet needle~9 , throttle valve 5
, and air jet @
.
From about % throttle opening, the air f l o w past the needle jet outlet i s sufficient to cause most o f the engine's fuel supply to be drain through the main system. Fuel passes through the main jet and the bleed pipe, through the space in the needle jet around the jet needle, and i n t o the carburetor bore, where it i s atom- ized by the air flow to the engine.
The bleed pipe has holes to admit the air metered by the main air jet. This air mixes with the fuel in the needle jet to prepare the fuel for better atomization in the carburetor bore.
The lower part of the jet needle i s tapered and extends down into the needle jet. I t i s fixed t o the throttle valve, and thus rises up in the needle jet as the throttle valve rises. A t % throttle opening, the tapered portion o f the needle starts coming up out o f the jet, which increases needle-to-jet clearance and thereby increases the amount of fuel that can pass up through the jet. Throttle Opening
o f this cutaway, which i s o n the intake side o f the throt- tle valve, helps define the size o f the air passage directly above both the pilot outlet and necdle jet outlet.
Cutaway
(HB
I
7. M a ~ n
8. Main Air j e t
9. j e t Needle
10. Bleed P ~ p c
1 1 .
12. Main j e t
Main System Fuel and Air Supply
Fuel Tank
Float
Chamber
A t ncdr full throttle openings, the cross-sectional area o f the needle t o jet clearance becomes greater than the cross-sectional arca o f the main jet. A t these openings, the fuel drawn u p i n t o the carburctor bore i s limited by the size o f the main jet rather than the needle t o jet clearance.
Troublc in the main system is usudlly indicated b y poor running, or lack o f power at high speeds. A dirty or clogged main jet will cause the mixture t o become too lean. A n overly rich mixture could be caused by clogg- ing o f the air jet, its air passage, or the air holes in the bleed pipe; b y needle jet or necdle wear (increasing clearance); bv a loosc main jet; or by d loosc bleed pipe.
Cleaning (See caution o n Pg. 157)
Disassemble the carburetor and wash the main jet, blced pipe, needle jet, jet needle, air jet, and air passage with a high flash-point solvent, blowing them clean with compressed air. I f necessary, use a bath o f automotive type carburetor cleaner. A worn needle jet or jet needle should be replaced.
N O T E : The last number o f the jet needle number ("2" o t 4C91-2) i s n o t stamped on the needle, b u t is the
1m number of the groove i n which the clip must be install- ed. The groove numbers are counted from the topmost groove, 5 being the lowest groove.
If the clip is put in any but the specified
Main J e t groove, exhaust emission will be in- creased, and the engine may suffer serious damage which could result in a crash.
Jet Needle
Bleed Pipe Main Air Jet
Main Air
Passage
V 1 I
A i r Cleaner
25
Engine
The amount o f fuel drawn o u t o f the needle jet is also influenced, particularly at lower speeds, by the amount o f cutaway on the throttle valve. The amount
Float
System
Fig. H I 7 shows the float system which consists of the float 4
, float valve needle 2 ' ) float valve seat I overflow pipe 5
.
, and
The float system serves to keep a relatively constant level o f fuel in the carburetor float chamber at all times so that the fuel supply to the engine will be stable. I f the fuel level in the float chamber i s set too low, i t will be more difficult for fuel to be drawn up into the carburetor bore, resulting in too lean a mixture. I f the level is set too high, the fuel can be drawn up too easily, resulting in too rich a mixture.
The design fuel level i s defined as the vertical distance from the center of the carburetor bore to the surface o f the fuel in the float chamber. The fuel level i s maintain- ed at a constant value by the action o f the float valve, which opens and closes according t o the fuel level. As fuel flows through the float valve into the chamber, the fuel level rises. The float, rising with the fuel level, pushes up on the needle. When the fuel reaches a certain level, the needle i s pushed completely into the valve seat, which closes the valve so that no more fuel may enter the chamber. As the fuel is drawn up out o f the float chamber, the fuel level drops, lowering the float. The needle no longer blocks the float valve, and fuel once again flows through the float valve i n t o the chamber.
NOTE: I t i s impractical to measure the actual design fuel level. Service fuel level i s defined as the vertical distance from the bottom edge o f the carburetor body to the surface of the fuel in the float chamber. Meas- uring the service fuel level i s an indirect method of inspecting for correct design fuel level.
Float System
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE 161
Service fuel /eve/ measurement and adjustment
I f the motorcycle exhibits symptoms o f improper fuel mixture, measure the service fuel level.
Secure the motorcycle i n a true vertical position.
Turn the fuel tap to the "ON" or "RES" position, and attach the fuel level gauge (special tool) to the open end o f the overflow tube. Hold the gauge against the side o f the carburetor so that the "0" line i s even with the bottom edge o f the carburetor body. Turn the fuel tap to the "PRI" position, and turn out the drain plug
1 - 2 turns. Wait until no air bubbles can be seen rising up through the fuel from the overflow tube, and read the service fuel level in the gauge.
NOTE: Measure the fuel level keeping the carburetor fully perpendicular to the ground.
A. Fuel Level Gauge (57001-1017)
Service Fuel Level Measurement rn
1. Fuel Level Gauge (57001-1 01 7)
162 MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
Table H5 Service Fuel Level
1 - -
Standard
3.5
+
1 mm from the edge of the carburetor body to the fuel level
I
I f the fuel level i s incorrect, remove the carburetor, and then remove the float bowl and float. Bend the tang o n the float a very slight amount to change the fuel level. Bending i t up closes the valve sooner and lowers the fuel level; bending i t down raises the level.
A. Tang
After adjustment, measure the service fuel level again, and readjust i f necessary.
Cleaning and replacement
(See caution on Pg.
757)
I f dirt gets between the needle and seat, the float valve will not close and fuel will overflow. Overflow can also result i f the needle and seat become worn. I f the needle sticks closed, no fuel will flow i n t o the car- buretor.
Remove the carburctor, and take o f f the float bowl and float. Wash the bowl and float parts in a high flash- point solvent. Use carburctor cleaner i f necessary on the float bowl and metal parts only. Blow out the fuel overflow pipe with compressed air.
Examine the float, and replace i f damaged. I f the needle i s worn as shown in the diagram, replace the needle and seat as a set.
Valve Needle
CAMSHAFT
Since this engine i s a DOHC (Double Over Head
Camshaft) type, there are two camshafts mounted in the top o f the cylinder head. One i s the inlet camshaft, and i s manufactured with four cam lobes, one to open the inlet valve for each cylinder. The other is the exhaust camshaft, and has four cam lobes to open the exhaust valves. There is a sprocket at the center o f the crank- shaft and at the center o f each camshaft. A chain placed over these sprockets enables the crankshaft to turn both camshafts so that the valves will be opened and closed at the proper times during each rotation of the engine.
Each sprocket has marks so that valve timing (the timc that each valve i s opened) can be reset correctly any timc the camshafts are removed for inspection or repairs.
However, since the time, amount, and duration that each valvc is opened (valvc timing) changes with cam wcar, journal wcar, and camshaft runout (bend), the camshafts should be inspected periodically and whenever timing trouble i s suspected. I f the valves do not open at the right times or i f they do not open the correct amount or for the proper duration, there will be a decrease in combustion efficiency, causing a loss of engine power and leading to serious engine trouble.
Valve Timing
Inlet Open
20" BTDC
- -
TDC
I
Exhaust Close
20" ATDC
+ - -
Inlet Close Exhaust 0
48" ABDC 48" BBDC
Good Bad
Cam wear
Remove the camshafts, and measure the height o f each cam with a micrometer. I f the cams are worn down past the service limit, replace the camshafts.
Table H6 Cam Heiqht
- -
Service L i m i t 35.45 m m
I
Cam Height Measurement
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE 163
Table H7 Camshaft Journal/Camshaft Cap Clearance
Service Liniit 0.13 mm
Mcasure the diameter of each camshdft journal with a micrometer. I f the diameter of any journal is less than the service limit, replace the camshaft.
Journal, bearing wear
The journal wear is measured using plastigauge (press gauge), which is inserted into the clearance to be measured. The plastigauge indicates the clearance by the amount i t i s compressed and widened when the parts are assembled.
Remove the camshaft, and wipe each journal and camshaft cap surface clean o f oil. Cut strips of plasti- gauge to journal width. Place a strip on each journal parallel to the camshaft and so that the plastigauge will be compressed between the journal and camshaft cdp.
Now, f i t the chain over the cdmshaft sprocket so the shaft won't turn, and install the camshaft, tightening the bolts in the correct sequence with the specified torque (Pg. 39).
While installing the camshaft, be sure t o reset it correctly (Pg. 581. I f it is install- ed incorrectly, valves may be bent.
Next, remove the camshaft cap again, and measure the plastigauge width to determine the clearance be- tween each journal and the camshaft cap.
I f dny clearance exceeds the limit, measure the did- meter of the camshaft journal and the bearing inside diameter.
A. Camshaft
Table H8 Camshaft Journal Diameter
Service Limit 21.93 mrn
Remove the camshafts, and tighten the camshaft caps with the specified torquc (Pg. 39). Mcasure the vertical inside diameter of each bearing with a cylinder gauge.
I f i t exceeds the service limit, replace the cylinder head and camshaft caps as a set since the camshaft cdps arc machined together with the cylinder head.
A. Camshaft Cap
B. Camshaft
C. Plastigauge
A. Camshaft Cap B. Cylinder Gauge
Table H9 Camshaft Bearing Inside Diameter
Service Limit 22.06 mm
Camshaft runout
Remove the camshaft and take the sprocket o f f the shaft.
164 MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
Set the shaft on V blocks at the outside journals as shown in the figure. Measure runout with a dial gauge at the sprocket mounting location, and replace the shaft i f the runout exceeds the service limit.
Camshaft Chain Tensioner (Cross-wedge Type)
1. Push Rod
2. Spring
3. Pin
A. Camshaft B. Dial Gauge
Table HI0 Camshaft Runout
I
Service L i m i t
I
0.1 m m
1
CAMSHAFT CHAIN, GUIDE, TENSIONER
The camshaft chain, which i s driven by the crank- shaft sprocket, drives the two camshafts at one-half crankshaft speed. For maximum durability and mini- m u m noise, an endless-type silent chain with no master link i s used.
The automatic camshaft chain tensioner of cross- wedge type is utilized for this machine. Periodic adjust- ment o f the tensioner i s not needed since chain slack i s removed automatically.
-
I
, push rod stop tensioner body 5
3 , 2 ,
8
, tensioner cap 9
,
, and pin
3 .
The push rod and push rod stop have a wedge-shaped portion, and are crossed wedgewise.
When the slack appears on the chain, the push rod i s pushed out to the chain by the springs 2
,
E
, and i t cannot be pushed back in because o f the wedge-shaped portion of the push rod locking on the wedge-shaped portion o f the push rod stop.
The pin 3 i s used to keep the push rod from falling in to the crankcase.
When the chain can no longer be adjusted enough to stop it from making noise, remove the chain, guides, and tensioner for inspections.
Camshaft chain
wear
Hold the chain taut with a force of about 5 kg in some manner, and measure a 20-link length. Since the camshaft chain may wear unevenly, take measurements at several places. I f any measurement exceeds the service limit, replace the chain.
Chain Length Measurement
20-link Length
I
Table H I 1 Camshaft Chain Length
Service L i m i t
1
128.9 m m
Chain guide wear
Remove all the chain guides, and inspect them visual- ly. Replace them i f the rubber or any other portion shows damage.
Measure the depth o f the grooves where the chain links run. Replace the guide if the wear exceeds the service limit.
Chain Guide Rubber Wear
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE 165
Cleaning and inspection
Remove the cylinder hedd (Pg. 61) and valves (Pg.
62). Scrape o u t any carbon, and wash the head w i t h a high flash-point solvent.
Table H I 2 Chain Guide Wear
Guide
[
Service L i m i t
I
Upper
I
Front
I
Rear
I
4.0 m m ( 5.0 m m ( 3.0 m m
1
1
"-
A. Cylinder Head
Cylinder head warp
Lay d straightedge acros5 the lower surface o f the head at several different points, and measure warp b y inserting a thickness gauge between the straightedge and the head. I f warp exceeds the service limit, replace the cvlinder head.
I
Chain tensioner inspection
Remove the chain tensioner. Visually inspect the tensioner parts. I f there is any damage or deut, replace the part with a new one.
CYLINDER HEAD, VALVE
The valves are mounted i n the head, they are pushed open b y the cams, and closed by the valve springs.
The valve guides and valve seats are pressed i n t o the cylinder head. The valve seat prevents compression leakage by f i t t i n g snugly against the valve. I t also pre- vents the valve f r o m overheating b y allowing efficient head transfer.
Cylinder Head
The cylinder head i s made o f dluminum alloy, used for i t s high hedt conductivity, and i s finned o n the out- side t o aid dissipation o f the heat generated in the com- bustion chambers. Carbon built u p inside the combus- tion chambers interferes w i t h heat dissipation and in- creases the compression ratio; which may result in preignition, detonation, and overheating. Trouble can also arise f r o m improper head mounting o r mounting torque, which may cause compression leakage.
A. Straightedge
.L7
B. Thickness Gauge
Table HI3 Cvlinder Head Warp
Service L i m i t
1
0.05 m m
I
Combustion chamber volume measurement
The combustion chamber volume should be measued any time that compression measurement results i n com- pression pressures well below or above the standard.
NOTES:
1 . Another person will be needed t o help expel air bubbles o u t o f the combustion chamber.
2. Prepare a piece o f transparent plastic plate which has a flat wrface and t w o holes about 3 5 m m apart i n
166 M A I N T E N A N C E - E N G I N E
i t s center portion. One hole should be dbout 6 mm in diameter, the other about 3 m m i n diameter.
The plate must be oil resistant, about 120 nlm square, and at ledst 3 mm thick.
Measuring Plastic Plate
Place the cylinder head on d level surface. Through the large hole, fill the combustion chamber with light oil such as 2-stroke oil or mission oil until the chamber i s completely filled but n o t overly. T i l t the cylinder head slightly so that air bubbles come o u t through the small hole. The oil should just rise to the bottom edge o f the holes in the plate.
The amount o f oil used to fill the chamber i s the combustion chamber volume.
/
,
/ ,' about
3 5 m m I
\
\
\
\
\
\
3. Obtain d burette or syringe which i s calibrated at one-cc or smaller graduations. Fill i t with thin oil.
Prior to the combustion chamber volume measure- ment, clean o f f any carbon on the combustion chamber, and remove any gasket flakes on the cylinder head mating surface. The standard spark plug should be installed in the chamber to be measured.
NOTE: The valves must seat well to prevent the oil from leaking out.
Apply a thin coat of grease to the cylinder head mating surface and pldce the plastic plate over the cylinder head combustion chamber, fitting its small hole near the edge of the combustion chamber.
A. Oil
Table H I 4 Combustion Chamber Volume
[
Standard
1
15.2-16.0 cc
I
I f the combustion chamber volume is too small, i t i s possible that the cylinder head was modified for higher compression. Make sure that all carbon deposits have been cleaned out o f the chamber.
I f the combustion chamber volume i s too large, i t is possible that the valves and valve seats have been resurfaced so much that the volume i s increased. Make sure that the spark plug i s the standard type and that i t i s fully tightened.
A. Plastic Plate
B. Large Hole
C. Small Hole
Valve, Valve Guide, Valve Seat
Valve face deformation or wear, stem bending or wear, and valve guide wear can cause poor valve seating.
Poor seating can also be caused by the valve seat itself, i f there i s heat damage or carbon build-up. The result o f poor valve seating i s compression leakage and a loss o f engine power.
In addition, valve and valve seat wear causes deeper valve seating and a decrease in valve clearance. In- sufficient clearance upsets valve timing and may even- tually prevent the valve from seating fully. So that wear never progresses this far, adjust the valve clearance in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart (Pg.
10).
Valve inspection
Visually inspect the valve face, and replace the valve i f i t shows deformation or uneven wear.
Measure the thickness o f the valve head using vernier calipers, and replace the valve i f the thickness i s under the service limit.
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
167
I f the seating surface o f the valve is damaged or badly worn, repair the valve with a valve refacer. The angle of the seating surface i s 45".
I f the end of the valve stem i s damaged or badly worn, replace the valve with a new one.
Do not grind the valve stem end to repair it or to permit additional valve clearance.
If the valve end is ground, the shim may contact the spring retainer and/or split keepers during operation, allowing the keeper to loosen. Consequently, the valve may drop into the engine, causing serious damage.
Valve Shape
A. Valve Stem
Table H I 7 Valve Stem Diameter
I I lnlet
I
Exhaust
I
Service L i m i t
I
5.41 mm
I
5.39 m m
1
Valve guide inspection
Remove the valve, and measure the inside diameter of the valve guide using a small bore gauge and micro- meter. Since the guide wears unevenly, measure the diameter at four places up and down the guide. I f any measurement exceeds the service limit, replace the guide.
1
Table H I 5 Valve Head Thickness
I
Service Limit
1
0.5 mm
/
Position the valve i n V blocks at each end o f the straight portion o f the stem, and set a dial gauge against the center of the stem. See the example shown in Fig.
H37.
Turning the valve, read the variation in the dial gauge.
Replace the valve if i t is bent more than the service limit.
Valve Stem Bend
Table H I 6 Valve Stem Bend
I
Service Limit
/
0.05 mm
I
Measure the diameter o f the valve stem with a micro- meter. Since the stem wears unevenly, take measure- ments at four places up and down the stem, keeping the micrometer at right angles to the stem.
Replace the valve i f the stem the service limit. i s worn to less than
A. Small Bore Gauge
Table HI8 Valve Guide Inside Diameter
I
Service Limit 5.58 mm
1
I f a small bore gauge i s not available, inspect the valve guide wear by measuring the valve to valve guide clear- ance with the wobble method, as indicated below.
Insert a new valve into the guide and set a dial gauge against the stem perpendicular t o i t as close as possible to the cylinder head mating surface. Move the stem back and force to measure valve/valve guide clearance.
Repeat the measurement i n a direction at a right angle to the first.
I f the reading exceeds the service limit, replace the guide.
NOTE: The reading i s not actual valve/valve guide clear- ance because the measuring point i s above the guide.
168 MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
A. Dial Gauge B. N e w Valve
Table H I 9 ValveIValve Guide Clearance
(Wobble Method)
Service L i m i t 0.26 m m
C. Move.
Valve seat repair
The valve must seat i n the valve seat evenly around the circumference over the specified area. I f the seat is t o o wide, the seating pressure per u n i t o f area is re- duced, which may result i n compression leakage and carbon accumulation on the seating surface. I f the seating area is too narrow, heat transfer f r o m the valve is reduced and the valve will overheat and warp. Uneven seating or seat damage will cause compression leakage.
Valve Seating Width
Table H20 Valve Seating Width
Standard 0.5-1.0 m m
1
T o determine whether or n o t the valve seat requires repair, first remove the valve, apply machinist's dye t o the valve seat, and then use a lapper t o tap the valve lightly i n t o place. Remove the valve, and note where the dye adheres t o the valve seating surface. The valve seating surface should be i n the middle o f the valve face
(Fig. H 4 1 ) . The distribution o f the dye on the seating surface gives an indication o f seat condition (Fig. H43).
N O T E : The valve and valve guide must be i n good condition before this check will give an accurate in- dication o f valve seat condition.
A valve seat which requires repair is cut with a set o f valve seat cutters. Four cutters are required for complete repair; one 30' (inlet valve seat o n l y ) ; one
45"; and t w o 60' cutters, one for the inlet and the other for the exhaust.
First, c u t the seating surface o f the valve seat with the 45' cutter. Cut only the amount necessary t o make a good surface; overcutting will reduce the valve clear- ance, possibly making it n o longer adjustable.
Cutting Angle of Valve Seat
5 ' 3 '
T ' j-
1m
Next, use the 30" cutter (inlet valve seat only) t o c u t the surface inside the seating surface, and then use the
60" cutter t o c u t the outermost surface. Cut these t w o surfaces so that the seating surface will have the specifi- ed width.
After cutting, lap the valve t o properly match the valve and valve seat surfaces. Start o f f with coarse lapping compound, and finish with fine compound.
ValveIValve Seat Contact Area
GOOD TOO W I D E TOO NARROW UNEVEN
MAINTENANCE-ENG I N E 169
Table H21 Inlet Valve Stem Installed Height
Measurement Probable Cause
Assembly with this shim:
Recommendation
After checking valve clearance, final shim may be in this range:
More than
37.03 m m
Valve face and valve seat worn out.
1. Replace valve. Remeasure.
2. Replace cylinder head. Remeasure.
Table H22 Exhaust Valve Stem Installed Height
Measurement
More than
36.98 m m
Probable Cause
- --
Valve face and valve seat worn o u t .
Assembly with this shim:
Recommendation
After checking valve clearance, final shim may be in this range:
2.85 m m
2.75 m m
2.65 m m
2.55 m m
2.45 m m
2.35 m m
2.25 m m
2.1 5 m m
2.05 m m
2.00 m m
1. Replace valve. Remeasure.
2. Replace cylinder head. Remeasure.
170 MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
Apply compound t o the valve seat, and tap the valvc lightly i n t o place while rotating i t w i t h d lapper. Re- peat this until a smooth, matched surface i s obtained.
A. Lapper B. Valve
Valve stem height inspection
A f t e r grinding the valves or valve seats and before assembling the cylinder head, measure the installed valve height f r o m the bottom o f the cylinder head lifter hole t o the end o f the valve stem with a vernier caliper. Refer t o Table H21 and Table H 2 2 f o r the recommended repair.
Valve Installed Height case, the installed height becomes so large that even the thinnest shim cannot give adequate clearance, and i t should be necessary t o replace the valve and remeasure the installed height. I f this is n o t successful, i t will be necessary t o replace the cylinder head. Replacement valve seats are n o t available.
Valve
Spring
When the valve i s n o t being pushed open b y the cam, the valve springs press the valve against the seat t o prevent compression leakage. A n inner spring is used with each outer spring t o prevent spring surge, which may cause valve float at high rpm. I f the springs weaken or break, compression leakage and valve noise will result, dropping engine power.
Spring tension
Remove the springs, and set them one at a time, on a spring tension testing device. Compress the spring, and read the tension at the test length. I f the spring tension at the specified length is weaker than the service limit, replace the spring.
Valve
Be sure t o mark each valve so it may be properly matched t o its corresponding valve seat during assembly.
A selection o f various thickness valve shims are avail- able f o r adjusting the valve clearance. There i s however, a l i m i t t o the amount o f adjustment possible using the shims. Resurfacing o f the valve face and valve seat inevitably drops the valve deeper i n t o the valve seat, allowing the valve stem end t o come closer t o the cam- shaft. Consequently, a thinner shim must be used t o compensate f o r the reduced valve clearance.
Over a period o f long use and repeated resurfacing, the valve may drop so far i n t o the valve seat. I n this
Table H23 Valve S ~ r i n a
I
Springs ( Test Length
I
Service L i m i t (
Inner 23.1 m m 16.2 kg
Outer 25.1 m m 31.3 kg
Spring Squareness
Measure the squareness o f each spring by standing each end on a surface plate and setting a square against it. Replace any spring f o r which the distance between the t o p o f the spring and the square i s greater than the service limit.
Valve Spring Squareness
Table H24 Valve Spring Squareness
Service Limit
1
1 . 5 m m
Oil Seal
The oil seal around each valve stem prevents oil from leaking down into the combustion chamber. I f an oil seal i s damaged or deteriorated, oil consumption will increase, and carbon may build up in the combustion chambers. This may be indicated by white exhaust smoke.
I f an oil seal appears damaged or deteriorated or i f there i s any doubt as to its condition, replace i t with a new one.
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE 171
Three rings are fitted into grooves near the top o f each piston t o prevent compression leakage i n t o the crankcase and to stop oil from getting up i n t o the combustion chambers. The top two rings are com- pression rings, and the bottom ring is an oil ring.
A full floating type piston pin i s used t o connect each piston to its connecting rod. The middle part o f the piston pin passes through the small end o f the connecting rod, and a snap ring i s fitted at each end of the piston pin in a groove to prevent the pin from coming out o f the piston. Since the pin i s the full float- ing type, a small amount of clearance exists between the piston pin and the piston when the engine i s at normal operating temperatures.
Proper inspection and maintenance o f the cylinder block and the pistons include checking the compression; removing carbon from the piston heads, piston ring grooves, and cylinder head exhaust ports; and checking for wear and proper clearances during top end overhaul.
A worn cylinder, worn piston, or worn or stuck piston rings may cause a loss of compression from gas blowby past the rings. Blowby may result in difficult starting, power loss, excessive fuel consumption, contaminated engine oil, and possibly engine destruction. Oil leakage into the combustion chambers causes carbon t o build up on top o f the pistons, which may result in preignition, overheating, and detonation. A worn piston pin causes piston rattle, which may cause accelerated piston and cylinder wear. I t i s evidenced by a knocking sound in the engine.
Engine problems may be caused n o t only by carbon deposits and wear or damage to the engine itself, b u t also by poor quality fuel or oil, improper oil, improper fuellair mixture, improper oil supply, or incorrect igni- tion timing. Whenever knocking, pinging, piston rattle, or other abnormal engine noise i s heard; the cause should be determined as soon as possible. Neglect o f proper maintenance will result in wear, overheating, detonation, piston seizure, or engine destruction.
C Y L I N D E R BLOCK, PISTON
The cylinder block i s subjected to extremely high temperatures. Since excessive heat can seriously distort the shape of a cylinder or cause piston seizure, the cylinder block i s made o f aluminum alloy for good heat conduction and the outside i s finned to increase the heat-radiating surface for better cooling efficiency.
T o minimize distortion from heat and to maximize durability, a wear resistant iron sleeve i s cold-pressed into each cylinder.
Each piston is made from an aluminum alloy, which expands and distorts slightly from heat during engine operation. So that the piston will become cylindrical after heat expansion, it i s designed such that, when cold, it i s tapered in towards the head and i s elliptical rather than perfectly round. The piston diameter i s made so that there i s enough clearance between the piston and cylinder to allow for expansion.
Compression measurement
A compression test is useful in determining the condition o f the engine. Low compression may be due t o cylinder wear; worn piston ring grooves; worn, broken, or sticking piston rings; poor valve seating; cylinder head leaks; or damage t o the engine such as piston seizure. Too high compression may be due t o carbon build-up on the piston heads and cylinder head.
Difference in compression between the cylinders may cause poor running.
Before measuring compression, check that the cyl- inder head is tightened down with the specified torque
(Pg. 40) and that the battery i s fully charged (Pg. 21 5 ) , and thoroughly warm up the engine so that engine oil between the pistons and cylinder walls will help seal compression as it does during normal running. While the engine i s running, check that there i s no gas leakage from around the cylinder head gasket and from the spark plugs.
Stop the engine, remove all spark plugs, and screw the compression gauge and hose (special tools) firmly into one spark plug hole. Using the starter motor, turn
172 MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
the engine over with the throttle fully open until the compression gauge stops rising; the compression i s the highest reading obtainable. Repeat the measurement for the other cvlinder. measurement at each o f the 3 locations (total of 6 measurements) shown in Fig. H49. I f any o f the cyl- inder inside diameter measurements exceeds the service limit, the cylinder will have to be bored oversize and then honed. However, i f the amount o f boring necessary would make the inside diameter greater than 56.0 mm, the cylinder block must be replaced.
Cylinder Inside Diameter Measurement
A. Compression Gauge (57001-221
B. Hose (57001-1018)
Table H25 Cylinder CompressionJf
Usable
10.9- 16.5 kg/cmZ (1 55-235 psi), or less than 1 kg/cm2 (14 psi) difference between any two cylinders
Jf Engine hot, spark plugs removed, throttle fully opened, cranking the engine with the staiter motor
I f cylinder compression i s higher than the standard value, check the following:
Carbon build-up on ;he piston head and cylinder head
- clean o f f any carbon on the piston head and cylinder head.
Cylinder head gasket, cylinder base gasket - use only the proper gaskets for the cylinder head and base.
The use of gaskets of the incorrect thickness will change the compression.
Valve stem oil seals and piston rings
- rapid carbon accumulation in the combustion chambers may be caused by damaged valve stem oil seals and/or dam- aged piston oil rings. This may be indicated by white exhaust smoke.
Cylinder head volume (Pg. 165).
I f cylinder compression i s lower than the service limit, check the following:
1. Gas leakage around the cylinder head - replace the damaged gasket and check the cylinder head for warp (Pg. 165).
2. Condition o f the valve seating (Pg. 168).
3. Valve clearance
- i f a valve requires an unusually thick shim to obtain proper clearance, the valve may be bent, and not seating completely.
4. Piston/cylinder clearance, piston seizure.
5. Piston ring, piston ring groove.
Cylinder, piston wear
Since there i s a difference in cylinder wear in differ- ent directions, take a side-to-side and a front-to-back
Table H26 Cylinder Inside Diameter
Service L i m i t
55.10 mm, or more than 0.05 mm difference
I between any two measurements
I
Measure the outside diameter o f each piston 5 mm up from the bottom o f the piston at a right angle to the direction o f the piston pin. I f the measurement i s under the service limit, replace the piston.
NOTE: Abnormal wear such as a marked diagonal pattern across the piston skirt may mean a bent con- necting rod or crankshaft.
A. Piston B. 5 mm
Table H27 Piston Diameter
I
Service L i m i t
1
54.80 m m
1
Tdble HZ6 applies only to cylinder that has not been bored oversize, and Table HZ7 applies only to the stand- ard size piston. In the case o f a rebored cylinder and oversize piston, the service limit for the cylinder i s the diameter to which the cylinder was bored plus 0.1 mm, thc servicc limit for thc piston i s the uvcrsizc piston original diametcr minus 0.1 5 mm. I f the exact figure for the rcbored diametcr i s unknown, i t can be roughly determincd by measuring the diametcr at the basc of the cylindcr.
NOTE: Whenever the piston or cylindcr block has bcen replaced with a new one, the motorcycle must be brokcn in the same as with a ncw machine.
MAINTENANCE-ENG I N E 173
the cylinder will have to be bored oversize and honed, and an oversize ist ton installed.
Piston cleaning
Built-up carbon on thc piston head reduces the cooling capability of the piston and raises compression, leading to overheating which could possibly even melt the top o f the piston. T o decarbonize the piston head, remove the piston (Pg. 67), scrape o f f the carbon, and then lightly polish the piston with fine emery cloth.
Piston/cylinder clearance
The piston-to-cylinder clearance is mcdsured when- ever a piston or the cylinder block i s rcplaced with a new one, or whenever a cylinder is reborcd and an oversize piston instal led. The standard piston-to-cylinder clearance must be adhered to whenever the cylinder block i s replaced or a cylinder reborcd. I f only a piston i s replaced, thc clearancc may exceed the standard slight- ly. But i t must not be less than thc minimum, in order to avoid piston seizure.
The most accurate way to find the piston clearance is by making separate piston and cylindcr diamcter measurements and then computing the difference bc- tween thc two values. Measurc the piston diameter as just describcd, and measure the cylindcr diameter at the very bottom of thc cylinder.
Table H28 PistonICylinder clearance
Standard
]
0.020-0.047 mm
Boring, honing
When boring and honing a cylinder, note the follow-
Ing:
Before boring a cylinder, first measurc the exact diameter of the oversize piston, and then in accord- ance with the standard clearance given in Table H28, determine the diameter o f the rebore.
T o avoid cylinder distortion due t o unbalanced mctal temperatures, bore the cylinders in 2-4-1-3 or 3-1-4-2 order.
Cylinder inside diameter must n o t vary more than
0.01 mm dt any point.
Be wary of measurements taken immedidtely after boring since the heat affects cylindcr diameter.
There are two sizes of oversize pistons available: mm and rings.
0.5
1.0 mm. Oversize pistons require oversize
Piston/c ylinder seizure
Remove the cylinder block and pistons to check the damage. I f there i s only slight damage, the piston may be smoothed with #400 emery cloth, and any aluminum depo5i~s removed from the cylinder with either MOO emery cloth or light honing. However, in most cases,
Carbon accumulated in the piston ring grooves can cause the rings to stick. Remove the rings, and clean out any carbon deposits using the end o f a broken piston ring or some other suitable tool.
1. When removing carbon, take care not to scratch the side of the piston, or the piston ring grooves.
2. Never clean the piston heads with the engine assem- bled. If the carbon is scraped from the piston heads with the cylinder left in place, carbon particles will unavoidably drop between the pistons and cylinder walls onto the rings and eventually find their way into the crank chamber. Carbon particles, which are very abrasive, drastically shorten the life of the rings, pistons, cylinders, crankshaft bearings, and oil seals.
Piston ring, piston ring groove wear
Visually inspect the piston rings and the piston ring grooves. I f the rings are worn unevenly or damaged, they must be replaced. I f the piston ring grooves are worn unevenly or damaged, the piston must be replaced and fitted with new rings. The two rails and the ex- pander o f the oil ring must be rcplaced as a set.
With the top and second rings in their grooves, make several measurements with a thickness gauge t o deter- mine piston ring/groove clearance. I f the clearance exceeds the service limit, measure the thickness o f the piston rings and the width of the ring grooves. I f the ring has worn down to less than the service limit, replace the ring; i f the groove width exceeds the service limit, replace the piston.
174 MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
Table H 3 2 Ring End Gap
I I
ServiceLimit
I
1
Top and 2nd
1
0.7 mm
I
Piston, piston pin, connecting rod wear
Measure the diameter of the piston pin with a micrometer, and measure the inside diameter o f both piston pin holes in the piston. I f the piston pin di- ameter i s less than the service limit at any point, replace the piston pin. I f either piston pin hole diameter ex- ceeds the service limit, replace the piston.
A. Piston Ring B. Thickness Gauge
Table H 2 9 Piston RingIGroove Clearance
I I
Service Limit
I
Top and 2nd
1
0.1 5 mm
1
I
I
Table H 3 0 Piston Ring Thickness
I
Service Limit
1
Table H 3 1 Piston Ring Groove Width
Top and 2nd
I
Oil
Service Limit
1.33 mm
1
2.60 mm
When new rings are being fitted into a used piston, check for uneven groove wear by inspecting the ring seating. The rings should fit perfectly parallel to the groove surfaces. If not, the piston must be replaced.
Piston ring end gap (top, second)
Place the piston ring inside the cylinder, using the piston to locate the ring squarely in place. Set i t close to the bottom of the cylinder, where cylinder wear i s low. Measure the gap between the ends o f the ring with a thickness gauge. If the gap i s wider than the service limit, the ring i s overworn and must be replaced.
A. Piston
Measure the inside diameter of the connecting rod small end. I f the diameter exceeds the service limit, replace the connecting rod.
A. Piston Ring
B. Cylinder Block
C. Thickness Gauge
A. Connecting Rod
I
Table H33 Piston Pin, Pin Hole, Small End Diameter
I
Small End
1
14.05 mm
I
- -
NOTE: When a new piston or pin is used, also check that piston-to-pin clearance is 0.005
-
0.01 6 mm, and that pin to small end clearance i s within 0.003 -0.019 mm.
CRANKSHAFT, CONNECTING ROD
The crankshaft changes the reciprocating motion o f the pistons into rotating motion, which is transmitted to the rear wheel when the clutch is engaged. The connecting rods connect the pistons to the crankshaft.
Crankshaft or connecting rod trouble, such as worn crankshaft journals or a bent connecting rod, will multiply the stress caused by the intermittent force on the pistons. This results in n o t only rapid crankshaft bearing wear, but also noise, power loss, vibration, and shortened engine life. A defective crankshaft or connect- ing rod should always be detected at an early stage and then replaced immediately.
The following explanation concerns the most com- mon crankshaft and connecting rod problems, giving the procedure for detecting damage and measuring wear and runout.
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE 175
arbor above the surface plate over a 100 m m length to determine the amount the connecting rod i s twisted.
I f the measurement exceeds the service limit, replace the connecting rod.
Connecting R o d Twist Measurement
Connecting rod bend, twist
Remove the connecting rod big end bearing inserts and replace the connecting rod big end cap. Select an arbor o f the same diameter as the connecting rod big end and of optional length, and insert it through the big end o f the connecting rod. Select an arbor o f the same diameter as the piston pin and o f optional length, and insert it through the small end o f the connecting rod.
On a surface plate, set the big-end arbor on V blocks so that the connecting rod i s perpendicular to the surface plate. Using a height gauge or dial gauge, measure the difference in the height o f the small-end arbor above the surface plate over a 100 m m length to determine the amount the connecting rod i s bent. I f the measure- ment exceeds the service limit, replace the connecting rod.
Connecting Rod Bend Measurement rn
Table H35 Connecting Rod Twist/100 m m
Service L i m i t 0.2 mm
I
Connecting rod bearing insert/journal wear
Bearing insert wear i s measured using a plastigauge
(press gauge), which i s inserted into the clearance t o be measured. The plastigauge indicates the clearance by the amount it is compressed and widened when the parts are assembled.
Remove the connecting rods. Cut strips o f plastigauge to bearing insert width. Place a strip on the connecting rod bearing insert on each connecting rod parallel to the crankshaft so the plastigauge will be compressed between the bearing insert and the connecting rod journal. Install the connecting rods, tightening the nuts with the specified torque (Pg. 40).
Remove the connecting rods, and measure the plasti- gauge width to determine the bearing insert/journal wear.
Table H34 Connecting R o d Bend/100 m m
1
Service L i m i t
1
0 . 2 m m
I
Swing the connecting rod 90" t o one side and support it parallel to the surface plate as shown in Fig. H57.
Measure the difference i n the height o f the small-end
A. Crankshaft B. Plastigauge
Table H36 Connecting Rod Bearing
InsertIJournal Clearance
176 MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
I f the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the bearing inserts as follows:
1. With a micrometer, measure the diameter of the crankshaft journals on which the connecting rods fit. Mark each flywheel in accordance with the journal diameter (Table H37).
I f the measurements i s less than the service limit, replace the crankshaft.
I f the measurements i s less than the standard value, b u t i s n o t under the service limit; use bearing inserts p a k t e d green.
NOTE: Any mark already on the flywheel should not be referred to during servicing.
A. Markings for Crankshaft Journal
B. Markings for Connecting Rod Journal
("on
or No mark)
Table H37 Connecting Rod Journal Diameter
32.97 mm
2. Put the connecting rod big end caps on the rods and tighten the nuts with the specified torque (Pg.
40). Measure the inside diameter, and mark each connecting rod big end in accordance with the inside
, diameter (Table H38).
N O T E : The mark already on the big end should almost coincide with the measurement.
Table H38 Connecting Rod Big End Diameter
36.009
-
36.01 6 mm
3. Select the proper bearing insert in accordance with the combination of the connecting rod and crank- shaft coding.
Table H39 Bearing lnsert Selection r\
Con-Rod
I
No mark
0
No mark
Black
PIN: 13034-lOO5
Brown
PIN: 13034-1006
1
PIN :
Green
1 3034- 1 004
1 Black
PIN: 1 3034-1 005
Table H40 Bearing Insert Thickness
Green
Brown
1.489-1.494 mm
1.480-1.485 mm
Connecting rod side clearance
Measure the side clearance of the connecting rod with a thickness gauge a, shown. Replace the crankshaft and the connecting rod i f the clearance exceeds the service limit.
A. Painted Marks (Brown, Black, or Green)
B. Marking for Connecting Rod ("0"
A. Connecting Rod B. Thickness Gauge
Table H41 Connecting Rod Big End Side Clearance
Scrvicc Limit
I
0 . 5 0 m m
--
Crankshaft runout
Set the crankshaft in a flywheel alignment jig or on
V blocks, and place a dial gauge against the points in- dicated. Turn the crankshaft slowly. The maximum difference in gauge readings i s the crmkshaft runout.
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
177 which wear on these bearing inserts. Mark each fly- wheel i n accordance with the journal diameter (Table
H 44).
I f the measurements is less than the service l i m i t , replace the crankshaft.
If the measurements i s less than the standard value, b u t is n o t ~ ! n d e r the service limit; use bearing inserts painted green.
NOTE: A n y mark already on the flywheel should n o t be referred t o during servicing.
A. Crankshaft B. Dial Gauge
Table H42 Crankshaft Runout
Service L i m i t 0.05 m m I
Crankshaft bearing insert/journal wear
Remove the crankshaft. Clean o f f the oil, and install the crdnkshaft. Cut strips o f plastigauge t o bearing insert width. Place a strip o n each journal parallel t o the crankshaft so the plastigauge will be compressed between the insert and the crankshaft journal. Install the lower crankcase half w i t h o u t turning the crankshaft, and tighten the bolts i n the correct sequence with the specified amount o f torque (Pg. 40).
Remove the lower crankcase h a l f (making sure that the crankshaft does not t u r n at any time), and measure the plastigauge width t o determine the bearing insert/ journal wear.
A. Crankshaft Journal
A. Crankshaft B. Plastigauge
Table H43 Crankshaft Bearing Insert/Journal
Clearance
Service L i m i t 0.1 0 m m
1
I f any clearance exceeds- the service limit, replace all bearing inserts (10) as follows:
A. Markings for Crankshaft Journal ("1" or No mark)
B. Markings for Connecting Rod Journal
Table H44 Crankshaft Journal Diameter
I
Markina
/
Standard
/
Service L i m i t
I
N o Mark 31.984-31 .992 mrn
31.96 mm
1 31.993-32.000 m m
2. Put the lower crankcase half on the upper crankcase half w i t h o u t the bearing inserts, and tighten the bolts t o the specified torque (Pg. 40). Measure the inside diameter, and mark the lower crankcdse half i n accordance with the inside diameter (Table H45).
NOTE: The mark already on the lower crankcase h a l f should almost coincide with the measurement.
178 MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
A. Markings for Crankcase ("0"
B. Painted Marks (Brown, Black, or Green)
1
Table H45 Crankshaft Bearing Inside Diameter
Markina
0
No mark
1
Standard
36.000
36.009
-
36.008 m m
-
36.01 6 m m
I
3. Select the proper bearing inserts in accordance with the combination o f the crankcase and the crankshaft marks (Table H46).
A. Crankshaft B. Thickness Gauge
NOTE: The upper crankcase half and the lower crank- case half are machined at the factory in the assembled state, so the crankcase halves must be replaced as a set.
Oil passage cleaning
There are oil passages running between the crank- shaft journals. Use compressed air to remove any foreign particles or residue that may have accummulated in these passages.
Table H46 Crankshaft Bearing Insert Selection
No mark
No mark
Black
PIN: 13034-1 01 7
Green
PIN: 13034-1 01 8
A. Crankshaft 6 . Compressed Air
Table H47 Crankshaft Bearing Insert Thickness
Color
Brown
Black
Green
Thickness
1.991
-
1.995 m m
1.995
-
1.999 m m
1.999
-
2.003 m m
Crankshaft side clearance
Measure the crankshaft side clearance with a thick- ness gauge as shown. Replace the crankcase halves as a set, i f the clearance exceeds the service limit.
Table H48 Crankshaft Side Clearance
-- I
Service L i m i t
1
0.35 m m
]
SECONDARY SHAFT
The secondary shaft has the secondary sprocket, cou- pling, starter motor clutch, and secondary shaft gear on it. The secondary sprocket i s chain-driven by the crank- shaft, and the secondary shaft gear transmits the power to the clutch housing gear. The sccondary shaft coupling connects the sccondary sprocket to the shaft. Rubber dampers in the coupling absorb the pulsations of the engine torque.
Check both o f the end ball bearings o f the secondary shaft, and replace i f necessary (Pg. 192).
Secondary sprocket damage
Inspect the teeth on the secondary sprocket. Any light damage can be corrected with an oilstone, but the secondary sprocket must be replaced i f the teeth are
badly damaged. Damaged teeth on the secondary sprocket indicate that the primary chain, by which i t is driven, may also be damaged. A t the same time that the secondary sprocket i s repaired or replaced, the primary chain should be inspected, and then replaced i f necessary.
M A I N T E N A N C E - E N G I N E
179
Table H49 Primary Chain Play
I
Service L i m i t 25 mm
1
C L U T C H
Fig. H71 shows the construction o f the clutch, which i s a wet, multi-plate type with 7 friction plates 19 and 6 steel plates 1 8
.
The friction plates are made o f cork, used for its high coefficient o f friction, bonded on a aluminum core, which provides durability and warp resistance. The clutch housing has a reduction gear
7' on one side and contains rubber dampers 3 t o absorb shock from the drive train.
Clutch
A. Secondary Sprocket B. Oilstone
P R I M A R Y C H A I N
The power transmission from the crankshaft to the secondary shaft i s chain-driven, utilizing a Hy-Vo (high velocity) chain. The Hy-Vo chain i s a rocker-joint type with a pin and rocker construction. Some of the special features o f the Hy-Vo chain are its capacity to transmit much power at high speed, i t s resistance to heat seizure due to a construction which employs rolling rather than sliding friction, quiet operation even at high rpm, and l o w power loss.
Wear
A primary chain which has worn so that i t is 1.4% or more longer than when new i s no longer safe for use and should be replaced. T o inspect the chain wear by measuring the chain slack, remove the oil pan.
Measure the chain slack, and replace the chain i f i t has worn past the service limit. The replacement chain must be a Tsubakimoto H y - V o 3/8P-3/4W, 50 links chain.
A. Primary Chain B. Chain Play
1. Secondary Shaft
2. Secondary Shaft
Gear
3. Rubber Damper
4. Spacer
5. Push Rod
6. Steel Ball
7. Clutch Housing
Gear
8. Clutch Housing
9. Clutch Cover
10. Clutch Spring
11. Spring Bolt
12. Washer
13. Drive Shaft
14. Spring Plate Pusher
15. Clutch Hub N u t
16. Spring Plate
17. Clutch Hub
18. Steel Plate
19. Friction Plate
180
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
The clutch release mechanism i s shown in Fig. H72.
The clutch release outer release gear release gear
3 and the inner a are made o f steel. Balls 4 are installed between the outer and inner release gears to reduce the friction between them. Assembled into the center of the inner release gear i s the clutch adjusting screw X , which pushes on the push rod
I!, and steel ball inside the drive shaft to release the clutch.
Clutch Release rn longer pressed together, power transmission from the crankshaft to the transmission drive shaft i s interrupted.
As the clutch lever i s released, the clutch springs return the spring plate and once again force the spring plate, plate assembly, and clutch hub tightly together.
Clutch trouble
A clutch that does not properly disengage will cause shifting difficulty and possible transmission damage. On the other hand, a slipping clutch will reduce power trans- mission efficiency and may overheat and burn out. A clutch that does not properly disengage may be caused by:
7.
8.
9.
10.
1.
2.
3.
Excessive clutch lever play.
Clutch plates that are warped or too rough.
Uneven clutch spring tension.
4.
5.
Deteriorated engine oil.
Engine oil viscosity too high.
6. Engine oil level too high.
The clutch housing frozen on the drive shaft.
A defective clutch release mechanism.
An unevenly worn clutch hub or housing.
Missing parts.
1. Locknut
2. Adjusting Screw
3. Circlip
4. Steel Ball
5. Output Release Gear
6. Mounting Screw
7. Cotter Pin
8. Spring
9. Oil Seal
10. Retainer
11. Push Rod
12. Inner Release Gear
13. Release Lever
The friction plates are keyed t o the clutch housing by tangs on the outer circumference o f each plate.
Since the clutch housing is gear-driven from the second- ary shaft, these plates are always turning any time the engine is running. The steel plates have a toothed inner circumference and mesh with the splines in the clutch hub. The hub i s mounted on the drive shaft, so that the drive shaft and steel plates always turn together.
One end o f each clutch spring pushes against its washer and bolt, which is threaded into the clutch hub.
The other end pushes against the spring plate. When the clutch is left engaged, the springs force the spring plate, friction plates, steel plates, and clutch hub tightly together so that the friction plates will drive the steel plates and transmit power to the transmission drive shaft.
When the clutch lever i s pulled t o release (disengage) the clutch, the clutch cable turns the clutch release inner release gear in, towards the clutch. The clutch adjusting screw, assembled inside the clutch release inner release gear, then pushes the push rod, which (through the steel ball and spring plate pusher) pushes the spring plate.
Since the spring plate moves the same distance that the inner release gear moves and the clutch hub remains stationary, the springs are compressed and pressure i s taken o f f the clutch plates. Because the plates are no
A slipping clutch may be caused by:
1. No clutch lever play.
2. Worn friction plates.
3. Weak clutch springs.
4. The clutch cable not sliding smoothly.
5. A defective clutch release mechanism.
6. An unevenly worn clutch hub or housing.
Clutch noise may be caused by:
1. Too much backlash between the secondary shaft gear and the clutch gear.
2. Damaged gear teeth.
3. Too much clearance between the friction plate tangs and the clutch housing.
4. Needle bearing worn or damaged.
5. Weak or damaged damper ru bber(s).
6. Metal chips jammed into the clutch housing gear teeth.
Spring tension
Remove the clutch springs, and set them, one at a time, on a spring tension testing device. Compress the spring, and read the tension at the test length. I f the spring tension at the specified length i s weaker than the service limit, replace the spring.
Table H50 Clutch Spring Tension
I
Test Length Service Limit
I
Friction plate wear, damage
Visually inspect the friction plates to see whether or not they show any signs o f seizure, overheating, or uneven wear. Measure the thickness o f the plates with vernier calipers.
I f any plates show signs o f damage, or i f they have worn past the service limit, replace them with new ones.
A. Friction Plate
Friction Plate Measurement
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE 181
F r i c t i o n p l a t e / c l u t c h h o u s i n g clearance
Measure the clcarancc between the tangs on the fric- tion plates and the fingers of the clutch housing. I f this clearance i s excessive, the clutch will no noisy.
I f the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the friction plates. Also, replace the clutch housing i f i t i s unevenly or badly worn where the friction plates wear against it.
Friction Platelclutch Housing Clearance rn
Clearance
Housing
I a
\
Friction Plate
Table H51 Friction Plate Thickness
Service Limit 2.7 mm
I
C l u t c h p l a t e w a r p
Place each clutch plate on a surface plate, and meas- ure the gap between each clutch plate and the surface plate. This gap i s the amount o f clutch plate warp.
Replace any plates warped over the service limit.
Table H53 Friction PlateIClutch Housing Clearance
Service Limit
I
0.7 mm
I
Inspect the fingers of the housing where the tangs o f the friction plates hit them. I f they are badly worn or i f there are groovcs cut where thc tangs hit, replace the clutch housing.
C l u t c h h o u s i n g gear damage lnspect the teeth on the clutch housing gear. Any light damage can be corrected with an oilstone, but the clutch housing must be replaced i f the teeth are badly damaged. Damaged teeth on the clutch housing gear indicate that the secondary shaft gear, by which i t i s driven, may also be damaged. Whenever the clutch hous- ing gear i s repaired or replaced, the secondary shaft gear should be inspected, and then replaced i f necessary.
A. Friction Plate
B. Steel Plate
C. Thickness Gauge
Table H52 Clutch Plate Warp
Service Limit
1
0 . 4 m m
1
A. Clutch Housing Gear B. Oilstone
182
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
Clutch housing gear/secondary shaft gear backlash
Measure the backlash between the clutch housing gear and secondary shaft gear. To measure the backlash, set a dial gauge against the teeth o f one gear. Then move the gear back and forth while holding the other gear steady. The difference between the highest and the lowest gauge reading is the amount o f backlash. Re- place both the clutch housing and the secondary shaft gear wherever the amount o f backlash exceeds the service limit.
Table H55 Clutch Housing, Sleeve Diameter
I I
ClutchHousing
1
Sleeve
I
I
Service Limit
1
37.03 mm
1
31.96 mm
I
Clutch hub damage
Inspect where the teeth on the steel plates wear against the splines o f the clutch hub. I f there are notches worn into the splines, replace the clutch hub.
Clutch release gear wear
With the clutch release assembled, push the inner release gear back and forth in the direction of the shaft without turning it. I f there is excessive play, replace the clutch release assembly.
Lubrication
Lubricate the clutch release gear with grease.
A. Clutch Housing Gear
B. Secondary Shaft Gear
C. Dial Gauge
Table H54 Clutch Housing GearISecondary
Shaft Gear Backlash
I
Service Limit
1
0.13 m m
I
Clutch housing/drive shaft sleeve wear
Measure the diameter of the drive shaft sleeve with a micrometer. Replace the drive shaft sleeve i f the dia- meter i s less than the service limit. Measure the inside diameter o f the clutch housing with a cylinder gauge.
Replace the clutch housing if the diameter exceeds the service limit. Check the clutch housing needle bearing
(Pg. 192). When replacing the clutch housing and/or drive shaft sleeve, replace the clutch housing needle bearing also.
TRANSMISSION
The transmission i s a 6-speed, constant mesh, return shift type. Its cross section i s shown in Fig. H80, and the external shift mechanism i s shown in Fig. H81. For simplicity, the drive shaft gears in the following expla- nation are referred t o as "D" (e.g., Dl=drive shaft 1st gear) and the output shaft gear as "0".
Gears D3/4, 0 5 and 0 6 are all splined to, and thus rotate with their shafts. During gear changes, these gears are moved sideways on their shafts by the three shift forks, one for each o f them. Gears D5, D6, 01,
02, 0 3 and 0 4 rotate free o f shaft rotation, but cannot move sideways. Gears D l and D2 rotate with the shaft and are unable t o move sideways.
A. Clutch Housing
B. Drive Shaft Sleeve
C. Needle Bearing
Shift Mechanism
When the shift pedal 15 is raised or lowered, the shift shaft 21 turns, a pawl on the shift arm 7 catches on one o f the shift drum pins a , and the shift drum 'la turns. A t the same time, the overshift limiter
9 on the shift lever 19 catches another pin as shown in Fig.
H90. As the shift drum turns, the shift fork guide pins
(3), each riding in a groove in the shift drum, change the position o f one or another o f the shift forks
1 2 , 13 li.,
, in accordance with the winding o f the grooves.
The shift fork ears then determine the position of gears
D3/4 7 ,
4 , and 0 6 5
.
Refer to Fig. H82 through
H88 for the gear position and drive path for neutral and each of the 6 gears. A pawl spring I6 i s fitted on the external shift mechanism to keep the shift arm and
Transmission
U
Shift Mechanism
3rd/4th Gear (D)
Drive Shaft
Output Shaft
6th Gear ( 0 )
5th Gear ( 0 )
Pin Plate
Shift Arm
Shift Drum Pin
Overshift Limiter
Shift Drum
Shift Fork (5th/6th)
Shift Fork (2ndl4th)
Shift Fork (1 st/3rd)
Operating Plate
Shift Pedal
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
183
4 MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
A. 1st
B. Neutral
C. 2nd
D. 3rd
E. 4th
F. 5th
G. 6th overshift limiter pressed against the shift drum pins to ensure proper pawl and pin contact. When the shift pedal i s released after shifting, the return spring 22 returns the shift lever and shift pedal to their original positions. So that the transmission will remain where i t was shifted, the shift drum positioning pin spring pushes the shift drum positioning pin 20 into one of six notches on the shift drum operating plate 14
.
Six o f these notches are equally spaced and correspond to the
6 gears. The other notch is halfway between the notches for 1st and 2nd gears, and corresponds to the half-stroke
shift pedal movement from 1st or 2nd gear required to shift into neutral.
The return spring pin 18 on the side o f the crankcase passes through a cutout on the shift mechanism lever.
This pin engages between the t w o ends of the shift mechanism return spring. Normally, the return spring pin should not make contact with the cutout on the lever, because the overshift limiter i s the primary con- trol for shift lever movement.
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE 185
Overshift Limiter
Each time that the shift pedal i s operated, the over- shift limiter interlocks with the shift drum pins t o pre- vent overshifting. On a full upshift or downshift stroke, the limiter "hooks" catch the shift drum pins t o keep the inertia o f the heavy shift drum from allowing it t o ro- tate beyond the intended gear position, particularly on a fast shift. A t the same time, the overshift limiter arrests the shift lever's motion at the end o f the stroke to aid in preventing overshifting.
Neutral Locator
Inside gear 0 5 three steel balls are located 120" apart, and serve to facilitate neutral location when shifting from first gear. When the motorcycle i s stopped and the output shaft i s not turning, one or two o f these balls falls down into its respective groove in the output shaft. When the shift pedal i s operated to shift from first toward second, gear 0 5 starts moving, but halfway toward its second gear position, the steel ball(s) hits the end o f the goove(s) in the output shaft, stopping gear
0 5 from moving, stopping the shift drum from turning, and leaving the transmission gears in the neutral position.
Neutral Locator rn
Transmission trouble
Transmission or external shift mechanism damage, causing the transmission to misshift, overshift, and/or jump out o f gear, can cause further damage t o the transmission and overrev damage to the engine itself.
An improperly functioning transmission or external shift mechanism may be caused by the following:
Loosc return spring pin
Broken or weakened return spring or shift drum po- sitioning pin spring
Broken or weakened shift pawl spring
Damaged shift arm and/or overshift limiter
Loose shift drum guide bolt
Bent or worn shift fork(s)
Worn shift fork grooves on gears D3/4, 0 5 , and/or
0 6
Worn shift fork guide pin(s)
Worn shift drum goove(s)
Binding o f shift drum positioning pin i n the posi- tioning bolt
Worn or damaged gear dogs, gear dog holes, and/or gear dog recesses
Improperly functioning clutch or clutch release
Improper assembly or missing parts
Transmission noise results from worn or damaged shafts, bearings, gear hubs or teeth, etc.
Motorcycle stopped Motorcylce moving
Shift Arm and Overshift Limiter Operation
External shift mechanism inspection
Inspect the shift pawl spring, shift pawls, and return spring. Replace any broken or other wise damaged parts.
-
1 . Shift Arm
2. Shift Drum
3. Shift Drum Pin
7. Return Spring Pin
8. Return Spring
9. Shift Shaft
;H90)
6. Shift Levcr
Shift Down
Shift Up
186 MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
Gear backlash
Split the crankcase. Leaving the transmission in place, measure the backlash between gears 0 1 and D l ,
0 2 and D2, 0 3 and D3, 0 4 and D4, 0 5 and D5, 0 6 and D6. T o measure the backlash, set a dial gauge against the teeth on one gear. Then move the gear back and f o r t h while holding the other gear steady. The difference between the highest and the lowest gauge reading i s the amount o f backlash. Replace both gears if the amount o f backlash exceeds the service limit.
A. Pawl Spring
B. Shift Pawls
C. Return Spring
Measure the free length o f the shift drum positioning pin spring. I f it i s shorter than the service limit, replace it w i t h a new one.
A. Positioning Pin B. Pin Spring
Table H56 Positioning Pin Spring Length
I
Service L i m i t
1
30.7 m m
1
Check t o see i f the return spring pin is loose. I f it is, remove it and apply a non-permanent locking agent t o the threads, and then screw it back in.
A. Dial Gauge B. Move
Table H57 Gear Backlash
I
Service L i m i t
1
0.25 m m
I
C. Hold
Shift fork bending
Visually inspect the shift forks, and replace any fork that is bent. A bent f o r k could cause difficulty in shifting o r allow the transmission t o jump o u t o f gear when under power.
Shift fork/gear groove wear
Measure the thickness o f the ears o f each shift fork, and measure the w i d t h o f the shift f o r k grooves on gears
D314, 05, and 06. I f the thickness o f a shift fork ear is under the service limit, the shift fork must be replaced.
I f a gear shift f o r k groove i s worn over the service limit, the gear must be replaced.
A. Return Spring Pin A. Gear 'Shift Fork Grooves B. Shift Fork
Table H58 Shift Fork Thickness
Service Limit 4.7 m m
Table H59 Gear Shift Fork Groove Width
Service Limit 5.25 m m
Shift fork guide p i n h h i f t drum groove wear
Measure the diameter o f each shift f o r k guide pin, and measure the width o f each shift drum groove. Re- place any shift fork on which thc guide pin has worn past the service limit. I f a shift drum groove i s worn past the service limit, replace the shift drum.
A. Bush
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
187
A. Shift Drum Grooves B. Shift Fork Guide Pin
Table H60 Shift Fork Guide Pin Diameter
I 1 on Shift Rod
I on Shift Drum
I
Service Limit
I
7.85 mm
I
7.93 m m
1
I
Shaftheedle bearing outer race wear
Measure the diameter o f the drive and output shafts where i t passes through the needle bearing. Replace the shaft i f the diameter is less than the service limit. Meas- ure the inside diameter o f the needle bearing outer race with a cylinder gauge. Replace the outer race if the diameter exceeds the service limit. When replacing the shaft and/or outer race, replace the needle bearing also.
Table H61 Shift Drum Groove Width
I
Service Limit
1
8.25 m m
1
Gear dog, gear dog hole, gear dog recess damage
Visually inspect the gear dogs, gear dog holes, and gear dog recesses. Replace any gears that have damaged, or unevenly or excessively worn dogs, dog holes, or dog recesses.
Gearhha
ft
clearance
Measure the diameter o f each shaft and bush with a micrometer, and measure the inside diameter o f each gear listed below. Find the difference between the two readings to figure clearance, and replace any gear where clearance exceeds the service limit.
Table H62 GearIShaft. GearIBush Clearance
I
ServiceLimit
1
0.16mm
1
A. Needle Bearing Outer Race B. Needle Bearing
Table H63 Shaft, Needle Bearing
Outer Race Diameter
Service L i m i t
Shaft
19.96 mm
Outer Race
26.04 m m
188 MA1 NTENANCE-ENGINE
Ball bearing, needle bearing wear, damage
Check the ball bearing and needle bearing (Pg. 192).
Oil Pressure Switch, Relief Valve
Both the oil pressure switch and the oil pressure relief valve are important for maintaining constant oil pressure. The oil pressure switch, mounted on the oil pan, checks on the oil pressure o f the oil pump outlet and lights the oil pressure warning light i f the pressure falls below a safe level. I f the oil pressure i s insufficient, the oil pump i s worn or malfunctioning or there i s an insufficient oil supply to the pump. On the other hand, i f the oil pressure becomes excessive, such as when the engine i s first started (especially in cold weather), the relief valve reduces the oil pressure. The relief valve opens whenever a pressure o f 5.2 kg/cm2 (74 psi) i s exerted on the valve spring.
ENGINE LUBRICATION
The engine lubrication system includes the oil screen, engine oil pump, oil filter, oil pressure relief valve, oil bypass valve, and oil passages. An oil pressure switch is provided to warn in case o f insufficient oil pressure.
An oil breather keeps crankcase pressure variations to a minimum and reduces emmissions by recirculating blowby gases. The discussion here concerns how these parts work together, how the oil reaches the various parts o f the engine, and how to check the oil pressure.
Details on the oil pressure switch, relief valve, engine oil pump, oil filter, and oil breather are given in the sections
(Pgs. 188-1 92) following engine lubrication.
Since the engine lubrication system i s a wet sump type, there i s always supply o f oil in the crankcase at the bottom o f the engine. The oil is drawn through the wire screen into the oil pump as the pump rotors turn. The pump i s driven by a gear on the secondary shaft. The screen removes any metal particles and other foreign matter which could damage the oil pump. From the pump the oil passes through the oil filter element for filtration. I f the element i s badly clogged, slowing the f l o w o f oil through it, oil bypasses the element through a bypass valve in the oil filter mounting bolt. After passing through the filter, the oil branches into two lubrication routes.
One o f these routes i s through the oil pan passage t o the crankcase main oil passage. Through the main oil passage, the oil flows to the crankshaft main bearings, then t o the connecting rod journals. The cylinder walls, pistons, and piston pins are lubricated by splash from the spinning crankshaft. The oil then drops and collects at the bottom o f the crankcase to be used again. An oil passage at each side o f the cylinder block takes oil up to the top o f the cylinder head. After lubricating the camshaft journals, the oil flows out over the cams and down around the valve lifters to lubricate these areas.
This oil return to the sump via the oil return holes at the base o f the valve lifters, and via the cam chain opening in the center o f the head and cylinder. A nozzle in the main oil passage squirts the oil to the primary chain.
The other route for filtered oil i s to the transmission.
The oil flows through the orifice and passage between the right side of the crankcase and clutch cover to the secondary shaft. Then, the oil lubricates the secondary shaft coupling and starter motor clutch gear. The oil flows through an orifice to the output shaft needle bearing and drive shaft needle bearing. Finally the oil drops down into the crankcase after lubricating the bearings and gears.
Oil
pressure measurement
To inspect the relief valve operation, check the oil pressure with the engine cold (about room temperature).
NOTE: I f the engine is warmed up already, begin by measuring the oil pressure at the normal operating temperature.
I f the oil passage plug is removed while the engine is warm, hot engine oil will drain through the oil passage; take care against burns.
The engine must be stopped. With the motorcycle on its side stand, remove the oil passage plug from the right side o f the crankcase, and connect the oil pressure gauge and adapter (special tools) i n i t s place to measure oil pressure.
A. Oil Pressure Gauge (57001-164)
B. Adapter (57001-403)
Start the engine, and note the oil pressure while running the engine at various speeds. A normal relief valve keeps the maximum oil pressure between the values in Table H64. I f the oil pressure exceeds 6.0 kg/cm2 (85 psi) by very much, the relief valve i s stuck at its closed position. I f the oil pressure i s much lower than 4.4 kg/cm2 (63 psi) at more than 5,000 rpm, the relief valve may be stuck open, or there may be other damage in the lubrication system.
Table H 6 4 Relief Valve Opening Pressure
Standard
4.4-6.0 kg/cm2 ( 6 3 - 8 5 psi)
Engine Lubrication System
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
189
(m
Engine Oil Flow Chart
I D
Valve
I
I -
17 Bypass
4
- - -
- -
- - - -
3
I
Oil Pan Passage
+-
Oil Filter
Pressure
Switch
I Oil Screen
Nozzle
7
190
MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
Warm up the engine, and measure the oil pressure at the normal operating temperature.
Run the engine at the specified speed (Table H65), and read the oil pressure gauge.
Table H65 Oil Pressure
I
9 4 " ~ )
2.0- 2.5 kg/cm2 (28- 36 psi)
I f the oil pressure i s significantly below the standard pressure, inspect the engine oil pump and relief valve. I f the pump and relief valve are not at fault, inspect the rest o f the lubrication system.
1
I
O i l pressure switch inspec tion
The switch should turn on the warning light whenever the ignition switch i s on with the engine not running.
I f the light does not go on, disconnect the switch lead. Connect the positive lead o f a 20V DC range volt- meter t o the switch lead and ground the voltmeter nega- tive lead t o the engine. Turn the ignition switch to the
"ON" position, and read the voltmeter. I f the voltmeter does n o t indicate battery voltage, the trouble i s either defective wiring or a burned-out indicator bulb. soft rod, and see if i t comes back to i t s seat by valve spring pressure.
NOTE: Inspect the valve in its assembled state. Dis- assembly and assembly may change the valve perform- ance.
A. Relief Valve B. Steel Ball
I f any rough spots are found during the above in- spection, wash the valve clean with a high flash-point solvent and blow out any foreign particles that may be in the valve with compressed air.
I f cleaning does not solve the problem, replace the relief valve as an assembly. The relief valve is precision made with no allowance for replacement o f individual parts.
Engine Oil Pump
The oil pump, installed in the right side o f the lower crankcase half, is a simple trochoid type with an outer and an inner rotor. The gear on the pump is driven in direct proportion to engine rpm b y a gear attached to the secondary shaft.
I f the oil pump becomes worn, i t may no longer be able to supply oil to lubricate the engine adequately.
Outer rotorlnner rotor clearance
Measure the clearance between the outer rotor and inner rotor with a thickness gauge. I f the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the rotors.
A. Oil Pressure Switch B. Switch Lead
I f the voltmeter does indicate battery voltage, then the oil pressure switch may be defective. Use an ohm- meter t o check for continuity between the switch terminal and the switch body. With the switch lead disconnected, any reading other than zero ohms indi- cates that the switch i s at fault.
The switch should turn o f f the warning light when- ever the engine i s running faster than the idle speed.
If the light stays on, stop the engine and measure the oil pressure (Pg. 188). I f the oil pressure i s more than the specified value with the engine running at the spec- ified speed, the oil pressure indicator switch i s defective, and must be replaced.
NOTE: When installing a new switch, tighten i t to
1.5 kg-m (1 1.0 ft-lbs) o f torque.
Relief valve inspection
Check to see if the steel ball inside the valve slides smoothly when pushing i t in with a wooden or other
A. Outer Rotor
B. Inner Rotor
C. Thickness Gauge
Table H66 Outer Rotor/lnner Rotor Clearance
I
Service Limit 0.30 mm
I
Outer iotor/pump body clearance
Measure the cleacance between the outer rotor and the pump body with a thickness gauge. I f the clearance exceeds the service limit, replace the oil pump assembly.
MAINTENANCE-ENG INE
191
Oil Filter
The oil filter, located in the lower part o f the crank- case, removes impurities from the oil.
As the filter element becomes dirty and clogged, i t s filtering efficiency i s impaired. I f i t becomes so clogged that i t seriously impedes oil flow, a pressure-activated bypass valve in the oil filter mounting b o l t opens so that sufficient oil will still reach the parts o f the engine needing lubrication. When the filter becomes clogged such that the oil pressure difference between the inlet and outlet for the filter reaches a certain pressure, the oil on the inlet side pushing on the valve spring opens the valve, allowing oil to flow to the main oil passage, bypassing the filter.
Never neglect the oil filter, or else metal particles or other foreign matter in the oil could reach the crank- shaft and transmission, accelerating wear and shortening engine life.
Oil Filter C r n )
A. Pump Body
B. Outer Rotor
C. Thickness Gauge
Table H67 Outer Rotor/Pump Body Clearance
I
Service Limit 0.30 mm
1
Rotor side clearance
Lay a straightedge on the oil pump body, and meas- ure the clearance between the straight edge and the rotors with a thickness gauge. I f the clearance exceeds the servicc limit, replace the oil pump assembly.
A. Straightedge B. Thickness Gauge
Table H68 Rotor Side Clearance r
Service Limit 0.1 2 mm
I
1 . Grommet
2. Filter Element
3. Spring
4. Bypass Valve Steel Ball
5. 0
6. Mounting Bolt
7. Filter Cover
8. 0 Ring
Oil filter replacement
Replace the filter element in accordance with the
Periodic Maintenance Chart (Pg. 10) since it becomes clogged with metal fillings from the engine and transmis- sion especially during break-in. After break-in, replace the element at every other oil change. When the filter i s removed for element replacement, wash the rest o f the filter parts in a high flash-point solvent and check the condition o f the 0 rings. I f the 0 rings are worn or deteriorated, replace them to avoid oil leakage.
192 MAINTENANCE-ENGINE
Oil Breather
The oil breather is located on the top o f the crank- case. The front right side o f the breather opens t o the crankcase, while the upper part connects through the breather hose t o the dir cleaner. Its function i s t o shaft dnd piston movement and t o recycle blowby gas.
Gas blowby is combustion chamber gas which have escaped past the rings into the crankcase. A small amount i s unavoidable, b u t gas blowby increases as cylinder wall and piston ring wear progresses. I f not efficiently removed, blowby gas will seriously contami- nate the engine oil.
Recycling blowby gas means more efficient combus- t i o n b u t the oil mist resulting from transmission gear movement must first be removed. The mixture o f b l o w b y gas and oil mist passes the breather, which separates most o f the oil from the gas. The oil which is separated f r o m the gds returns t o the b o t t o m o f the crankcase. The gas is drawn through the breather hose i n t o the air cleaner housing, and f r o m there, through the carburetors i n t o the engine.
I f the breather hose or the pdrts inside the breather- become clogged, pressure mdy build u p i n the crankcase and cause oil leaks.
NOTE: I f the engine i s overfilled with engine o i l , mist f r o m the excess oil will go through the oil breather t o clog the air cleaner and cause carburetion trouble. This is n o t the fault o f the oil breather.
Oil seal damage
Inspect the oil seals, and replace any i f the lips are misshapen, discolored (indicating the rubber has dete- riorated), hardened, or other wise damaged. Since an oil seal is nearly always damaged on removal, any removed oil seals must be replaced. When pressing i n an oil seal which i s marked, press it in with the mark facing out- ward. Press the seal in so that the face o f the seal i s level with the surface o f the hole.
MUFFLER
The mufflers reduce exhaust noise and conduct the exhaust gases back away f r o m the rider while keeping power loss to a minimum. I f much carbon i s built u p inside the muffler, exhaust efficienty is reduced, which lowers the engine power output.
I f there is any exhaust leakage where the mufflers connect t o the cylinder head, or i f the gaskets appear damaged, replace the gaskets. I f either muffler i s badly damaged, dented, cracked o r rusted, replace it with a new one.
B A L L BEARING, NEEDLE BEARING
Ball bearing wear, damage
Since the ball bearings are made t o extremely close tolerances, the wear must be judged b y feel rather than b y measurement.
Clean each bearing in a high flash-point solvent, dry it (do n o t spin it while it i s d r y ) , and oil it. Spin i t b y hand t o check its condition. If i t is noisy, does n o t spin smoothly, or has any rough spots, replace i t .
Needle bearing wear, damage
The rollers in the needle bearings wear so little that the wear i s difficult to measure. Instead, inspect the bearings f o r abrasion, color change, o r other damage. I f there is any doubt as to the condition o f either bearing, replace it.
O I L SEAL
The crankshaft oil seal in the right engine cover forms a seal between the crank chamber and the contact breaker p o i n t cavity. I f this seal i s damaged, oil will leak i n t o the contact breaker point cavity, and foul the contact breaker points. A n y damaged, hardened, or otherwise defective oil seal will allow oil t o leak.
MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS 193
Maintenance-
Chassis
Table of Contents
WHEEL
Tire
Rim
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
195 Axle
Greaseseal
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wheel Bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Rear Wheel Coupling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
DRIVE CHAIN
SPROCKET
BRAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
Automatic Wear Adjustment
Brakingstroke
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Braking Release Stroke
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
199
199
Master Cylinder
Caliper
BrakeDisc
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
BrakeFluid
STEERING STEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
206
FRONT FORK
Compression Stroke
Extension Stroke
Spring
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
InnerTube
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
209
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Oil Seal, Dust Seal
F o r k O i l
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
SWING ARM
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
211
194 MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS
WHEEL
The following sections, Pgs. 194
-
196, cover the tires, rims, spokes, axles, wheel bearings, and grease seals. For thc brakes, see Pgs. 1 9 8 - 2 0 6 .
Tire
The tires are designed t o provide good traction and power transmission during acceleration and braking even on bad surfaces. T o do this, they must be inflated t o the correct pressure and n o t overloaded. The maximum rec- ommended load, i n addition t o vehicle weight, is 165 kg
I f the tires are inflated t o too high a prcssure, riding becomes rough, the center portion o f the trcad wears quickly, and the tires are easily damaged.
I f inflation pressure is too low, the shoulder portions wear quickly, the cord suffers damage, fuel consumption i s high and handling i s poor. In addition, heat builds u p at high speeds, and tire life is greatly shortened.
T o ensure safe handling and stability, use only the recommended standard tires for replacement, inflating them to the standard pressure. A certain variation from the standard pressure may be de- sired depending on road surface conditions (rain, snow, rough surface, etc.).
Table J 1 Tire, Air Pressure (measured when cold)
7
1 I
Load
I
Air Pressure
1
Size
I
Make, Type
+ c 3.25H-19 D U N L O P
9
L
(28 psi)
4PR F 7
LL
,
1
:
97.5 kg (36 psi)
97.5-
FP to
1
2 .
165 kg (40 psi)
5 i
3.75H-18 D U N L O P
T T l 0 0
1
Bead protectors are provided o n the rear wheel t o
1 keep the tire f r o m slipping on the r i m and damaging the tube when extreme braking or driving forces are applied.
Tire wear, damage
Tires must n o t be used i f they are getting bald, or if they are c u t or otherwise damaged. As the tire tread wears down, the tire becomes more susceptible t o punc- ture and failure. 90% o f tire failures occur during the last 10% o f tire life.
Visually inspect the tire for cracks and cuts, replacing the tire in case o f bad damage. Remove any imbedded stones or other foreign particles f r o m the tread. Swelling or high spots indicate internal damage, requiring tire replacement unless the damage t o the fabric i s very minor.
Measure the depth o f the trcad with a depth gauge, and replace the tire i f tread depth is less than the service limit.
Table
I
52 Tire Tread Depth
Scrvicc L i m i t
Front
Rear
I
Under 130 kph
I
Over 130 kph
I
1 m m
I
2 m m
1 m m
3 m m
A. Tire B. Depth Gauge
Rim
Cast wheels are installed o n this motorcycle for driving safety. The hub, r i m , and spokes are casted from light alloy in one united body. The case wheel does n o t need periodic maintenance such as a wire-spoke wheel.
Table 53 Rim Sizet
Size
Front
1 . 8 5 ~ 1 9
Rear
1 . 8 5 ~ 1 8
?The rim size shown in the table i s the inner width of the r i m flanges and bead seat diameter, both in inches.
Rim runout measurement
I f there is any doubt as t o the condition o f the wheel, or i f the wheel has received a heavy impact, check the r i m runout as follows:
Remove the tire and suspend the wheel b y the axle.
Set a dial gauge against the side o f the rim, and rotate the wheel t o measure the axial runout. The difference between the highest and lowest dial readings i s the amount o f runout.
Set the dial gauge against the outer circumference o f the rim, and rotate the wheel t o measure radial runout.
The difference between the highest and lowest dial read- ings is the amount o f runout.
I f r i m runout exceeds the service limit, check the wheel bearings first. Replace them if they are damaged.
I f the problem i s n o t due t o the bearings, the wheel must be replaced. D o n o t attempt t o repair a damaged wheel.
I
Table 54 R i m Runout
Service L i m i t
I
Axial
I
Radial
1
0.5 m m
1
0.8 m m
1
Rim Runout
1 1
MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS 195
Table J5 Axle Runout/100 m m
(
Servicc L i m i t
I
Rcpair L i m i t
1
1. Radial Runout
2. Axial Runout
Grease Seal
A grease seal is fitted in the speedometer gedr housing, i n the right side o f the f r o n t and rear hubs, and i n the rear wheel coupling. Each grease seal is a rubber ring equipped with a steel band o n its outer circumference. The grease seal inner l i p is held against the axle collar by a wire spring band. Since the grease seal n o t only seals in the wheel bearing grease b u t also keeps dirt and moisture from entering the hub, the use o f a damaged grcase seal will cause the wheel bearing t o wear quickly.
Grease Seal
Rim damage
Carefully inspect the wheel for small cracks, dents, bents, or warp. I f there is any damage t o the wheel, i t must be replaced.
Never attempt to repair a damaged wheel.
If there is any damage besides wheel bear- ings, the wheel must be replaced to insure safe opera- tional condition.
1. Secondary L i p
2. Spring Band
3. Steel Band
4. Primary L i p
Axle
A bent axle causes vibration, poor handling, and instability.
T o measure axle runout, remove the axle, place i t in
V blocks that are 100 m m apart, and set a dial gauge t o the axle at a point halfway between the blocks. Turn the axle t o measure the runout. The amount o f runout is the amount o f dial variation.
I f runout exceeds the service limit, straighten the axle or replace it. I f the axle cannot be straightened t o within tolerance, or i f runout exceeds repair limit, re- place the axle.
Axle Runout m
Inspection
I f the grease seals are examined without removing the seals themselves, look for discoloration (indicating the rubber has deteriorated), hardening, damage t o the internal ribbing, or other damage. If the seal or internal ribbing has hardened, the clearance between the seal and the axle sleeve will not be taken up, which w i l l allow d i r t and moisture t o enter and reach the bearing.
I f i n doubt as t o its condition and whenever the seal is removed f o r greasing the bearing, the seal should be replaced. The seals are generally damaged u p o n removal.
Wheel Bearing
A wheel bearing is fitted in both sides o f each hub.
Since worn wheel bearings will cause play i n the wheel, vibration, and instability, they should be cleaned, in- spected, and greasc periodically.
lnspection and lubrication
Since the wheel bearings are made t o extremely close tolerances, the clearance cannot normally be measured.
Wash the bearing with a high flash-point solvent, dry i t
(do n o t spin i t while it i s dry), and oil it. Spin i t by hand t o check its condition. I f i t i s noisy, does n o t spin smoothly, or has any rough spots, i t must be replaced.
196 MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS
I f the same bearing is t o be used again, re-wash it with a high flash-point solvent, dry it, and pack it w i t h good quality bearing grease before installation. T u r n the bearing b y hand a few times t o make sure the grease is distributed uniformly inside the bearing, and wipe the o l d grease o u t o f the h u b before bearing installation.
Clean and grease the wheel bearings i n accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart (Pg. 10).
A. Rubber Damper
A. Grease.
Rear Wheel Coupling
The rear wheel coupling connects the rear sprocket t o the wheel. A rubber shock damper i n the coupling absorbs some o f the shock resulting f r o m sudden changes i n torque due t o acceleration or braking.
Drive Chain i
Damper inspection
Remove the rear wheel coupling, and inspect the rubber damper.
Replace the damper i f it appears damaged or dete- riorated.
D R I V E CHAIN
The drive chain is an "endless" type i n which the weakest link, the master l i n k has been eliminated by constructing the chain i n a closed loop. T o preserve chain strength and reliability, never c u t the chain t o install i t ; f o l l o w the replacement procedure given i n the
"Disassembly" section o f this manual. When chain re- placement is necessary, use only the standard chain
(Table 16) for replacement, since only this chain has been especially designed t o withstand the extremely high torque developed b y the engine.
Chain construction is shown in Fig, j 7 . Most chain wear occurs between the p i n and bushing and between the bushing and roller, rather than on the outside of the roller. This wear causes the chain t o lengthen and invites noise, excessive wear, breakage and disengage- ment f r o m the sprocket if the chain i s left unadjusted.
I f the chain i s allowed t o wear too much, the chain pitch (i.e., the distance f r o m one roller t o the next) becomes much greather than the sprocket pitch, causing the chain t o slide u p and down the sprocket teeth and wear even faster.
The wear between the pin and bushing i s greatly
/
Side Plate Side Plate
7 \-
Pin a
1 s t 2nd 3rd Measure this Length 20th 21st
reduced by providing 0 rings t o seal in the lubricant between the pin and bushing. The wear between bushing and roller can be minimized by frequent and sufficient lubrication.
Table J6 Drive Chain
Make
Enuma
1
Type
1
Link
1
EK530SH-T30
1 l 0 0 l i n k
Wear
When the chain has worn so much that i t is more than
2% longer than when new, i t is no longer safe for use and should be replaced. Whenever the chain is replaced, inspect both the engine and rear sprockets and replace them i f necessary. Overworn sprockets will cause a new chain to wear quickly. See the "Sprocket" section.
Since it is impractical to measure the entire length of the chain, determine the degree o f wear by measuring a 20-link length of the chain. Stretch the chain taut either by using the chain adjuster, or by hanging a 10 kg weight on the chain. Measure the length o f 20 links on a straight part of the chain from pin center of the 1st pin to pin center o f the 21st pin. Since the drive chain may wear unevenly, take measurements at several places.
I f any measurement exceeds the service limit, replace the chain.
N O T E : The drive system was designed for use with the standard chain. For maximum strength and safety, the standard chain must be used for replacement.
MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS 197
chain. An effective, good quality lubricant specially formulated for chains i s best for regular chain lubri- cation. I f a special lubricant is not available, a heavy oil such as SAE 90 i s preferred to a lighter oil because i t will stay on the chain longer and provide better lubri- cation. Apply the oil to the sides o f the rollers so that i t will penetrate to the rollers and bushings. Wipe o f f any excess oil.
A. 10 kg Weight
Table 57 Drive Chain 20-link Length
Service Limit 323 m m
Lubrication
In order for the chain to function safely and wear slowly, i t should be properly lubricated in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart (Pg. 10). Lubri- cation i s also necessary after riding through rain or on wet roads, or any time that the chain appears dry.
Anytime that the motorcycle has been washed, the chain should be adequately lubricated on the spot in order to avoid rust.
The chain should be lubricated with a lubricant which will both prevent the exterior from rusting and also absorb shock and reduce friction i n the interior of the
A. Oil
Cleaning
D i r t will cling t o the oil and act as an abrasive, ac- celerating chain wear. Whenever the chain becomes particularly dirty, i t must be cleaned.
The in the lubricant between the pin and the bushing. To avoid damaging the loss of lubricant, observe the following rules.
1. Use only kerosene or diesel oil for cleaning an drive chain. Any other cleaning solution such as gasoline or trichloroethylene will cause deterioration and swell of the
2. Immediately blow the chain dry with compressed air after cleaning.
3. Complete cleaning and drying the chain within 10 minutes.
4. Lubricate the chain after cleaning and drying.
SPROCKET
There are two sprockets for the drive chain. A for- ward sprocket, or engine sprocket, is mounted on the end o f the output shaft and is used to drive the chain.
A rear sprocket i s connected to the rear wheel hub through the rear wheel coupling and i s driven by the chain to turn the rear wheel.
Sprockets that have become excessively worn cause chain noise and greatly accelerate chain and sprocket wear. The sprockets should be checked for wear any time that the chain i s replaced. A warped rear sprocket destroys chain alignment such that the chain may break or jump from the sprockets when traveling at high speed.
The sprockets should be checked for wear and the rear sprocket for warp any time the chain is replaced.
Sprocket wear
Visually inspect the sprocket teeth. I f they are worn as illustrated, replace the sprocket.
198 MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS
Sprocket Teeth
Worn Tooth
(Engine Sprocket)
Worn Tooth
(Rear Sprocket)
(J10)
Direction o f rotation
Measure the diameter o f the sprocket at the base of the teeth. I f the sprocket is worn down t o less than the service limit, replace the sprocket.
A. Rear Sprocket B. Dial Gauge C. Turn.
A. Rear Sprocket
Table J8 Sprocket Diameter
Service L i m i t
Engine
70.2 mm
Rear
191.3 m m
NOTE: I f a sprocket requires replacement, the chain i s probably worn also. Upon replacing a sprocket, inspect the chain.
Rear sprocket warp
Elevate the rear wheel so that i t will turn freely, and set a dial gauge against the rear sprocket near the teeth as shown in Fig. 11 2. Rotate the rear wheel.
The difference between the highest and lowest dial gauge readings i s the amount of runout (warp).
I f the runout exceeds the service limit, replace the rear sprocket.
Table J9 Rear Sprocket Warp
Service L i m i t 0.6 m m
1
BRAKE
A hydraulic disc brake is used on each wheel for superior braking performance and high reliability. The major components o f each disc brake are the brake lever
(front) or the brake pedal (rear), master cylinder, brake line, caliper assembly, and disc. The brake lever is pulled or the brake pedal i s pushed to move a piston in the master cylinder and pressurize the brake fluid. Fluid pressure is transmitted through the brake line to operate the caliper. The caliper grips the disc attached to the wheel, slowing wheel rotation. Front brake lever pushes the front brake light switch, and the rear brake pedal pulls the rear brake light switch. Each switch turns on the brake light.
Unlike a drum-type brake, the components of the disc brake which perform the actual braking action, i.e., the disc and pads, are open to direct contact with the air flow past the motorcycle. This provides for excellent dissipation of the heat from brake friction, and minimizes the possibility o f brake fade common to drum brakes.
The automatic wear adjustment mechanism of the rear caliper i s the same as that o f the front caliper, and caliper operation i s the same as for the front caliper except that the rear caliper is held stationary and has two pistons. So a separate explanation o f the braking and release strokes o f the rear caliper will be omitted.
Automatic Wear Adjustment
When fluid pressure develops in the cylinder, the piston i s pushed exerting pressure against the brake pad, which in turn presses against the brake disc. The pressurized fluid i s prevented from leaking by a fluid seal fitted into the cylinder wall. The seal i s pressed against the piston and, instead o f sliding when the piston moves, the seal i s only distorted, allowing no fluid leakage at all (See Fig. j14). When the brake lever or pedal is released and fluid pressure lowers, the elasticity of the seal returns the piston to i t s original position.
After the brakes are used for a while and the pads wear slightly, the rubber seal will no longer be able to distort the additional amount that the piston travels.
Instead, when piston travel forces the seal past i t s limit, the seal slips on the piston. The seal then returns the piston to a new rest position that i s closer to the disc.
A small amount o f fluid from the reservoir supple- ments the fluid in the brake line to compensate for the difference in piston position. Consequently, the length o f the brake lever or pedal stroke remains unchanged, and the brake never needs adjustment.
The seal and the cup at the head o f the master cylinder piston are made o f special heat resistant rubber for best performance and to prevent deterioration. For this reason, only standard parts should be used.
MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS 199
and the reservoir 6
.
Until this port i s fully closed, the brake fluid does not start being pressurized, in spite o f the forward movement of the piston.
The pressure stroke starts as soon as the relief port i s closed. The piston compresses the brake fluid, which i s being used as the pressure medium, forcing it o u t i n t o the brake line. The pressure i s transmitted through the line to the cylinder portion o f the caliper assembly, where i t forces the piston .I' towards the disc. The piston presses pad A against the disc, b u t since the disc is immovable, further pressure cannot move the pad any farther. Instead, the entire caliper assembly moves in the opposite direction such that pad B i s also forced against the disc. In this manner, the disc i s gripped between the two pads, and the resulting friction slows wheel rotation.
Braking Stroke
When the brake lever i s pulled, the piston 11) in the master cylinder is pushed and moves forward against the force of the return spring 8
.
A t this time, the pri- mary cup '9' at the head o f the piston closes the small relief port 4
, which connects the pressure chamber
Braking Stroke
Braking Release Stroke
When the brake lever is released, the piston in the master cylinder i s quickly returned toward its rest po- sition by the spring 6
, and brake fluid pressure drops in the line and in the caliper cylinder. The elasticity o f
1. Piston
2. Fluid Seal
3. Caliper
4. Relief Port
5. Supply Port
6. Reservoir
7. Master Cylinder
8. Spring
9. Primary Cup
10. Non-return Valve
1 1 . Piston
12. Secondary Cup
Braking Release Stroke
1. Piston
2. Fluid Seal
3. Caliper
4. Relief Port
5. Supply Port
6. Reservoir
7. Master Cylinder
8. Spring
9. Primary Cup
10. Non-return Valve
1 1 . Piston
12. Secondary Cup
200 MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS
the fluid seal 2 in the cylinder then returns the piston.
This leaves no pressure against either pad A or B so that slight friction against the disc pushes them both slightly away from the disc.
As the master cylinder piston moves back further, the brake fluid in the line rushes to fill the low pressure area in front o f the primary cup at the piston head. A t this time, fluid from the reservoir flows through the large supply port
$1 into the space between the primary and secondary cups, through the non-return valve 10, and passes around the edges o f the primary cup t o fill the vacuum. When the piston has returned t o its rest position against the stop, the small relief port i s un- covered. As the brake fluid returns from the line, excess fluid passes through the relief p o r t into the reservoir until the brake line pressure returns to zero.
Master cylinder part wear
When master cylinder parts are worn or damaged, proper brake fluid pressure cannot be obtained in the line, and the brake will not hold.
I f the small relief port becomes plugged, especially with a swollen or damaged primary cup, the brake pads will drag on the disc.
*Check that there are no scratches, rust or pitting on the inside o f the master cylinder, and that i t is not worn past the service limit.
*Check the piston for these same faults.
*Measure the cylinder inside diameter, and measure the piston, primary cup, and secondary cup outside diam- eter.
Master Cylinder
The master cylinder assembly includes the reservoir
5 , piston rb, primary and secondary cups 1 8 , II), non- return valve 3, , and spring
7 .
The reservoir has two holes at the bottom: a relatively large supply port (3 supply fluid to the lines and a small relief port 2' to admit excess fluid from the line. The primary and secondary cups stop the fluid from leaking back around the piston while the piston i s moving forward to pres- surize the line. The non-return valve i s in the head o f the piston; i t stops backward fluid flow when the brake i s applied. When the brake lever i s released, the valve allows flow around the cup to fill the vacuum in front o f the piston so that the piston can return easily.
Front and Rear Master Cylinders
A. Piston
B. Cylinder
C. Primary Cup
D. Secondary Cup
1. Diaphragm
2. Relief Port
3. Supply Port
4. Cap
5. Reservoir
6. Master Cylinder Body
7. Spring
8. Primary Cup
9. Non-return Valve
10. Piston
11. Secondary Cup
12. Piston Stop
13. Dust Seal
14. Liner
15. Brake Lever
16. Plate
17. Retainer
18. Dust Cover
19. Push Rod
NOTE: The cup3 and spring are part o f the piston assembly. Replace the piston assembly i f any one o f the cups or the spring requires replacement.
@Inspect the primary and secondary cups. I f a cup is worn, damaged, softened (rotted), or swollen, replace i t . I f fluid leakage is noted at the brake lever, the cups should be replaced.
Front
A. Primary Cup
B. Secondary Cup
Rear
C. Dust Cover
MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS
201
Table J10 Master Cylinder Parts
Measurement Service L i m i t
Cylinder Inside Diameter
Piston Outside Diameter
Primary Cup Diameter
Secondary Cup Diameter
Spring Free Length
Cylinder Inside Diameter
16.4 mm,@ 14.5 m m
34.7 mm,@40.5 m m
15.95 m m
Piston Outside Diameter
Primary Cup Diameter
Secondary Cup Diameter
15.95 n i m , @ I 4.08 m m
15.80 mm, @ 13.90 m m
16.0 mm, @ 14.1 m m
15.80 m m
16.3 m m
16.3 m m
Spring Free Length 37.2 m m
@ : Single disc brake model
Caliper
The front wheel has a floating-type caliper. The front caliper assembly includes pad A i6), pad B 1 , and the piston 19, which i s inside the caliper cylinder. Through the caliper run two shafts 3 , which also pass through the caliper holder
111, to mount the assembly to the fork leg. When the piston forces pad A dgdinst the disc, the shaft portion of the cdliper a3scmbly slides the disc, both brake pdds being kept parallel t o the disc
Front Caliper
(m
A. Primary Cup B. Secondary Cup
*Replace the dust seal i f damaged.
*Check that the spring i s not damaged and the spring free length i s not shorter than the service limit.
A. Spring
1. Nut
2. Spacer
3. Holder Shaft
4. 0
5. Dust Cover
6. Pad A
7. Pad B
8. Mounting Screw
9. Lockwasher
10. Metal Plate
11. Caliper Holder
12. Dust Seal
13. Fluid Seal
14. Piston
15. Caliper
202 MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS
The rear wheel has a fixed caliper. The rear caliper assembly consists o f t w o caliper halves 7
, do', bolted together, with each half containing a cylinder; a set o f opposed pistons 6 ; and t w o pads 5
.
The pad anti- rattle springs 13 hold the pads in position apart f r o m the disc when the rear brake i s n o t applied. When the brake is applied, the pressurized f l u i d i s delivered t o the piston areas on b o t h sides o f the caliper at the same time. Each piston goes forward until it is pressed against the disc, so no lateral movement o f the disc and caliper is needed. There i s a drilled internal fluid passage which is sealed by
Front Brake Pad
Usable
Range
For the rear disc brake, if either pad is worn down through the stepped portion, replace both pads as a set.
Rear Brake Pad
Usable
Range
I I r'::::':7
. . . . . . . . . .
1. Pad Cover
. . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . 2. Safety Clip
. . . . . . . . . .
I1
3. Anti-rattle Spring
4. Pin
5. Pad
6. Piston
7. Caliper Half
8. Valve Cap
9. Bleed Valve
10. Caliper Half
11. Fluid Seat
12. Dust Seal
Pad wear
Inspect the pads f o r wear. For the front disc brakes, check the thickness o f the pad linings, and replace both pads as a set if the thickness o f either pad is less than
1 mm.
I f any grease or oil spills o n the pads, wash it o f f with trichloroethylene or a high flash-point solvent. D o not use one which will leave an o i l y residue. I f the oil cannot be thoroughly clean off, replace the pads.
Fluid seal damage
The f l u i d seal around the piston maintains the prop- er padldisc clearance. I f this seal i s n o t satisfactory, pad wear will increase, and constant pad drag on the disc will raise brake and brake fluid temperature.
Replace the f l u i d seals under any o f the following conditions: (a) f l u i d leakage around the pad; (b) brakes overheat; (c) there is a large difference i n l e f t and right pad wear; (d) the seal is stuck t o the piston. I f the fluid seal i s replaced, replace the dust seal as well. Also, re- place all seals every other time the pads are changed.
MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS 203
A. Fluid Seal B. Dust Seal C.
Dust seal, cover, 0 ring damage
Check the dust seals, covers, that are cracked, worn, swollen, or otherwise damaged.
Piston, cylinder wear
Measure the cylinder inside diameter and piston out- side diameter.
Replace the cylinder and piston i f they are worn out o f tolerance, badly scored, or rusty.
A. Caliper Holder Shafts
B.
C. Caliper Holder
Brake Disc
Besides wearing down, the disc may warp. A warped disc will cause the brake pads to drag on the disc and will wear down both the pads and disc quickly. Dragging will also cause overheating and poor braking efficiency.
Disc warp
jack up the motorcycle so that the front wheel i s o f f the ground, and turn the handlebar fully t o one side. Set up a dial gauge against the front disc as illustrated, and measure disc runout. Remove the jack, set the motorcycle up on its center stand, and then measure the rear disc runout. I f runout exceeds the service limit, replace the disc.
A. Piston B. Cylinder
Table J l I Caliper Parts
Measurement Service L i m i t
2
0
L
Cylinder Inside Diameter
Piston Outside Diameter
38.25 mm,@42.92 mm
38.08 mm,@42.75 mm
Cylinder Inside Diameter 42.92 m m
42.75 m m
- -
Piston Outside Diameter
@ : Single disc brake model
Caliper holder shaft wear
Caliper holder shafts must slide smoothly in the caliper holder. I f the shafts do not slide smoothly, one pad will wear more than the other, pad wear will in- crease, and constant drag on the disc will raise brake and brake fluid temperature. Check t o see i f the caliper holder shafts are nor badly worn or stepped, or are not damaged. I f the shafts or replace the shafts,
A. Disc B. Dial Gauge
Table 5 1 2 Disc Runout
Service Limit
1
0.3 mm
C. Turn.
Disc wear
Measure the thickness o f each disc at the point where i t has worn the most. Replace the disc i f i t has worn past the service limit.
204 MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS
A. Disc
Table J13 Disc Thickness
Front
Service L i m i t 4.5 mm, @ 6.0 m m
@ : Single disc brake model
Rear
6.0 m m
Disc cleaning
Poor braking can also be caused by oil on the disc.
Oil on the disc must bc cleaned o f f with trichloro- ethylene or a high flash-point solvent. Do not use one which will leave an oily residue.
Brake Fluid
The brake fluid is an extra heavy duty type with a high boiling point to withstand the heat produced by friction o f the caliper pads on the disc. Since the boiling point and thus the performance o f the fluid would be reduced by contamination with water vapor or dirt from the air, the reservoir i s sealed with a rubber diaphragm under the cap. This cap seal also prevents fluid evapo- ration and spillage should the motorcycle fall over. The fluid i s further protected by rubber seals in the caliper assembly and at the master cylinder brake line fitting.
When the brake i s applied, heat i s generated by the friction between the disc and the brake pads. While much o f this heat i s immediately dissipated, some o f i t i s transmitted to the brake fluid and may raise fluid operation. This temperature could boil the brake fluid and cause a vapor lock in the lines unless fluid with a high boiling point is used and has been kept from being contaminated with dirt, moisture, or a different type o f fluid. Poor quality or contaminated fluid can also deteriorate from contact with the recommended brake fluids.
The graph o f Fig. 129 shows how brake fluid con- tamination with moisture lowers the fluid boiling point.
Although n o t shown in the graph, the boiling point also lowers as the fluid gets old, i s contaminated with dirt, or i f two different types o f brake fluid are mixed.
When working with the disc brake, observe the precautions listed below.
1 . Never reuse old brake fluid.
2. Do not use fluid from a container that has been left unsealed or that has been open a long time.
3. Do not mix two types o f fluid for use in the brake. This lowers the brake fluid boiling point and could cause the brake to be ineffective. I f may also cause the rubber brake parts t o dete- riorate. Recommended fluids are given in the table.
N O T E : The type of fluid originally used in the disc brake is not available in most areas, but i t should be necessary to add very little fluid be- fore the first brake fluid change. After changing the fluid, use only the same type thereafter.
Table J14 Recommended Disc Brake Fluid
Atlas Extra Heavy Duty
Shell Super Heavy Duty
Texaco Super Heavy Duty
Wagner Lockheed Heavy Duty
Castrol Girling-Green
Castrol GT ( L M A )
Castrol Disc Brake Fluid
The correct fluid will come in a can labeled
D.0.T.3. Do not use fluid that does not have this marking.
4. D o n ' t leave the reservoir cap o f f for any length o f time to avoid moisture contamination o f the fluid.
5. Don't change the fluid in the rain or when a strong wind i s blowing.
6. Except for the disc pads and discs, use only disc brake fluid, isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alcohol for cleaning brake parts. D o not use any other fluid for cleaning these parts. Gasoline, motor oil, or any other petroleum distillate will cause deterioration o f the rubber parts. Oil spilled on any part will be difficult to wash o f f complete- ly and will eventually reach and break down the rubber used in the disc brake.
7. When handling the disc pads or disc, be careful that no disc brake fluid or any oil gets on them.
Clean o f f any fluid or oil that inadvertently gets on the pads or disc with a high flash-point solvent. Do n o t use one which will leave an oily residue. Replace the pads with new ones i f they cannot be cleaned satisfactorily.
8. Brake fluid quickly ruins painted surfaces; any spilled fluid should be completely wiped up immediately.
9. I f any o f the brake line fittings or the bleed valve i s opened at any time, the AIR MUST BE
BLED F R O M T H E BRAKE.
10. When installing or assembling the disc brake, tighten the disc brake fittings to the values given in Table G I . Improper torque may cause the brake to malfunction.
Brake Fluid Boiling Point
MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS 205
.If a dual disc brake is used, repeat the previous step one more time for the other side.
C l o s e the bleed valve(s), and fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid.
.Open the bleed valve, apply the brake by the brake lever or pedal, close the valve with the brake held applied, and then quickly release the lever or pedal.
Repeat this operation until the brake line i s filled and fluid starts coming out of the plastic hose. Re- plenish the fluid in the reservoir as often as necessary to keep i t from running completely out.
.Bleed the air from the lines.
Percentage of Moisture
Changing the brake fluid
The brake fluid should be changed in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart (Pg. 10) and when- ever i t becomes contaminated with dirt or water.
.Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleed valve on the caliper, and run thc other end o f the hose into a container.
.Remove the reservoir cap, and remove the rubber cap on the bleed valve.
.Open the bleed valve (counterclockwise to open), and pump the brake lever or pedal until all the fluid is drained from the line.
Filling up the Brake Line m
Bleeding the brake
The brake fluid has a very low compression coef- ficient so that almost all the movement o f the brake lever or pedal i s transmitted directly to the caliper for braking action. Air, however, i s easily compressed.
When air enters the brake lines, brake lever or pedal movement will be partially used in compressing the air.
This will make the lever or pedal feel spongy, and there will be a loss in braking power.
Blced the air from the brake whenever brake lever or pedal action feels soft or spongy, after the brake fluid is changed, or whenever a brake line fitting has been loosened for any reason.
.Remove the reservoir cap, and check that there i s plenty o f fluid in the reservoir. The fluid level must be checked several times during the bleeding opera- tion and replenished as necessary. I f the fluid i n the reservoir runs completely out any time during bleeding, the bleeding operation must be done over again f r o m the beginning since air will have entered the line.
Bleeding the Brake Line (J31)
Open the bleed valve.
Apply the brake, keeping the brakc applied.
Close the bleed vdlve.
Then quicltly rcicase the brake.
1 . Hold the brnlte applied.
2. Quickly opcn and close the valve.
3 . Release the brake.
206 M A I N T E N A N C E - C H A S S I S
.With the reservoir cap off, slowly pump the brake lever or pedal several times until no air bubbles can be seen rising up through the fluid from the holes at the bottom of the reservoir. This bleeds the air from the master cylinder end of the line.
.Install the reservoir cap, and connect a clear plastic hose to the bleed valve at the caliper, running the other end o f the hose into a container. Pump the brake lever or pedal a few times until it becomes hard and then, holding the lever squeezed or the pedal pushed down, quickly open (turn counterclockwise) and close the bleed valve. Then release the lever or pedal. Repeat this operation until no more air can be seen coming out i n t o the plastic hose. Check the fluid level in the res- ervoir every so often, replenishing i t as necessary.
.If a dual disc brake i s used, repeat the previous step one more time for the other side.
.When air bleeding is finished, install the rubber cap(s) on the bleed valve, and check that the brake fluid i s filled t o the upper level line marked in the reservoir
(handlebar turned so that the reservoir is level).
STEERING STEM
The steering stem supports the handlebar and front fork legs, and turns inside the frame head pipe. Ball bearings in the upper and lower ends o f the head pipe enable the steering stem to turn smoothly and easily.
The steering stem itself does not wear, but i t may become bent. I f i t becomes bent, the steering will be stiff, and the bearings may become damaged.
The steering stem will require periodic adjustment as it becomes loose due t o bearing wear. Overtighten- ing during adjustment, however, will make the steering stiff and cause accelerated bearing wear. Lack o f proper lubrication will also bring about the same results.
From overtightening or from a heavy shock to the steering stem, the bearing race surfaces may become dented. Damaged bearing races will cause the handlebar to jerk or catch when turned.
Steering
A. Front Master Cylinder B. Upper Level Line
A. Rear Master Cylinder B. Upper Level Line
Brake line damage
The high pressure inside the brake line can cause fluid t o leak or the hose to burst if the line i s not properly maintained.
Bend and twist the rubber hose while examining it.
Replace i t if any cracks or bulges are noticed.
1. Stem Head Bolt
2. Fiat Washer
3. Stem Locknut
4. Upper Inner Race
5. Steel Ball
6. Upper Outer Race
7. Stem Head
8. Frame Head Pipe
9. Steering Stem
10. Stem Base
11. Steel Ball
1 2. Head Clamp Bolt
13. Stem Cap
14. Lower Outer Race
15. Lower Inner Race
Table J15 Bearing Ball Specifications
I
Upper
Lower
I
Size
%"
%"
I
Quantitv
19
20
I
Steering stem warp
Examine the steering stem, and replace i t i f i t i s bent.
Bearing wear, damage
Wipe the bearings clean o f grease and dirt, and ex- amine the races and balls. I f the balls or races are worn, or i f either race i s dented, replace both races and all the balls for that bearing as a set.
Bearing lubrication
In accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart
(Pg. l o ) , and whenever the steering stem i s disassem- bled, the steering stem bearings should be relubricated.
Wipe all the old grease o f f the races and balls, washing them in a high flash-point solvent if necessary. Replace the bearing parts i f they show wear or damage. Apply grease liberally to the upper and lower races, and stick the bearing balls in place with grease.
A. Bearing Race B. Grease.
MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS
207 action, air compression in the inner tube, and resistance to the flow o f the oil forced into the cylinder by tube movement.
Each fork leg i s telescopic tube including an inner tube 7 ,
8), 6
, collar
Q , and cylinder base 14. The inner tube fits into the outer tube, altering its position in the outer tube as the tube arrangement absorbs shocks. The cylinder i s fixed t o the bottom o f the outer tube and the piston
(equipped with a piston ring 5 ) is secured t o the top o f the cylinder. The collar (coupled with a non-return valve 17
), fixed i n the lower end o f the inner tube, forms the upper part of the lower chamber and together with the piston helps seal the upper chamber. The collar and cylinder base configuration function t o form an oil lock at the end o f the compression stroke t o prevent the inner tube from striking the bottom. Small orifices in the upper part o f the cylinder bring about an oil lock at the end o f the extension stroke to prevent the inner tube from striking the top.
Compression Stroke
Whenever a load i s placed on the front f o r k and whenever the front wheel receives a shock, the inner tube 7 moves down inside the outer tube 8
, or the outer tube moves up, compressing both the spring 4 and the air in the inner tube. A t the same time, low pressure (suction) i s created in an enlarging chamber
(upper chamber 9
) formed between the inner tube and the cylinder 6,, i s drawn in from a diminishing chamber (lower chamber 13
) formed between the outer tube and the cylinder. As the lower chamber shrinks in size with oil passing freely through the non-return valve 17 into the upper chamber, oil also passes freely through the cylinder lower orifices into the cylinder as the inner tube approaches the cylinder base 14. Near the end of the compression stroke, the clearance be- tween the tapered-out cylinder base and the collar 12 at the lower end o f the inner tube approaches zero.
The resulting resistance to the flow o f oil through this small space slows the movement, finally forming an oil lock t o finish the compression stroke.
Grease seal deterioration, damage
Inspect the grease seal for any signs o f deterioration or damage, and replace i t i f necessary.
Replace the grease seal with a new one whenever i t has been removed.
FRONT FORK
Front fork consists o f the fork legs connected to the frame head pipe by the stem base and stem head brack- et. I t accomplishes shock absorption through spring
Extension Stroke
Following the compression stroke i s the extension stroke, in which the compressed spring extends to push the inner tube back out o f the outer tube. As the tubes move apart, the upper chamber grows smaller, forcing the oil through the way i t came through the non-return valve. These small holes restrict the oil flow i n t o the inner tube damping fork extension. Near the end o f the extension stroke both the cylinder spring and the ar- rangement o f the cylinder upper orifices provide further resistance to extension. As the collar rises, reducing orifices are eliminated and an oil lock forms, finishing the extension stroke.
208 MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS
Compression Stroke
CJ36) Extension Stroke
T e n t
1 . Dust Scal
2. Retainer
3. Oil Seal
4. Spring
5. Piston Ring
6. Cylinder and
Piston U n i t
7. lnner Tube
8. Outer Tube
9. Upper Chamber
10. Spring
11. Spring Seat
12. Collar
13. Lower Chamber
14. Cylinder Base
15. Allen Bolt
16. Spring
17. Non-return Valve
1. Dust Scal
2. Retainer
3. Oil Scal
4. Spring
5. Piston Ring
6. Cylindcr and
Piston Unit
7 , lnner Tube
8. Outer Tube
9. Upper Chamber
10. Spring
11. Spring Seat
12. Collar
13. Lower Chamber
14. Cylinder Base
15. Allen Bolt
16. Spring
17. Non-return Valve
Spring
The front fork springs in the inner tube are made o f special spring rods, heated and wound in the shape o f a special coil, to suspend the vehicle.
Front Fork Spring Force
1 0
- 4 . 5
5 0 100
Compression (mm)
150 180
Spring tension
Since the spring becomes shorter as i t weakens, check i t s free length to determine its condition. I f the spring o f either fork leg i s shorter than the service limit, i t must be replaced. I f the length o f a replacement spring and that o f the remaining spring vary greatly, the remain- ing spring should also be replaced in order to keep the fork legs balanced for motorcycle stability.
A. Fork Spring
Table J16 Fork Spring Free Length
I
Service Limit
1
543 mm
1
lnner Tube
A bent, dented, scored, or otherwise damaged inner tube will damage the oil seal, causing oil leakage. A badly bent inner tube may cause poor handling.
MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS
209
lnner tube damage
Visually inspect the inner tube, and repair any damage. I f the damage i s not repairable, replace the inner tube. Since damage to the inner tube damages the oil seal, replace the oil seal whenever the inner tube is repaired or replaced. Temporarily assemble the inner and outer tubes, and pump them back and forth manual- l y to check for smooth operation.
I f the inner tube i s bent or badly creased, replace it. Excessive bending, followed by subsequent straightening, can weaken the inner tube.
Oil Seal, Dust Seal
Oil i s prevented from leaking out by the oil seal 3
, which i s fitted at the upper end o f the outer tube. A dust seal i on the outside o f the tube keeps dirt and water from entering and damaging the oil seal and tube surface.
Inspection
Inspect the oil seal and dust seal for any signs o f deterioration or damage, and replace them i f necessary.
Replace the oil seal with a new one whenever it has been removed.
Fork Oil
Either too much or too little oil i n the fork legs will adversely affect shock damping. Too much oil or too heavy an oil makes the action too stiff; too little oil or too light an oil makes the action soft, decreases damping potential, and may cause noise during fork movement.
Contaminated or deteriorated oil will also affect shock damping and, in addition, will accelerate internal wear. The fork oil should be changed periodically (Pg.
10) or sooner i f the oil appears dirty.
Fork oil change
To drain the old oil, remove the drain bolt from the lower end o f the outer tube. With the front wheel on the ground and the front brake fully applied push down on the handlebar a few times to pump o u t the oil.
Install the drain bolt and gasket applying a non- permanent locking agnet to i t s threads and tightening i t to 0.80 kg-m (69 in-lbs) of torque, remove the top plug and spring from the inner tube, and pour in the type and amount o f oil specified in Table j 17. Check the oil level, and install the spring and top plug. I f the oil i s below and specified level, add oil and recheck the oil level.
NOTE: After the front fork oil i s changed, but before checking the oil level, pump the forks several times to expel the air from the upper and lower chambers.
Table J17 Fork Oil 1
When z p n g i n g
1
After disassembly ;;: compIeteiy
Oil Level y e
(without spring)
SAE
5W20 about
200 cc
21 7.5-222.5 cc
505 m m from the top o f the inner tube
210 MA1 NTENANCE-CHASSIS
Rear Shock Absorber
A. Drain Bolt
Oil level
To check the fork oil level, first place a jack or stand under the engine so that the front wheel i s raised off the ground. Remove the top plug and fork spring from the inner tube. Insert a rod down into the tube, and measure the distance from the top o f the inner tube to the oil level. I f the oil i s below the correct level, add cnough oil to bring i t up to the proper levcl, taking carc not to overfill.
Fork Oil Level
R E A R SHOCK ABSORBER
The rear shock absorbers serve t o damp shocks transmitted to the frame and rider from the rear wheel.
For this purpose, they are connected between the frame and the rear end o f the swing arm. Shock absorption is performed by the spring and by the resistance to the flow o f oil inside each unit. Shock absorption i s further aided by the use of rubber bushings in both the upper and lower shock absorber mountings.
1. Rubber Bushing
2. Locknut
3. Rubber Stop
4. Piston Rod
5. Oil Seal
6. Valve
7. Piston
8. Outer Shell
9. Spring
10. Spring Seat
11. Adjusting Sleeve
12. Cylinder
13. Valve
14. Collar
Shock Absorber Spring Force
MAINTENANCE-CHASSIS 21 1
(33 a set. If only one unit i s replaced dnd the t w o are not balanced, motorcycle instability at high specds may result.
Shock absorber spring torce tor the 5 difterence settings i s shown in graph of Fig. 143.
Bushing inspection
Check the rubber bushings, and replace dny that are worn, cracked, hardened, or otherwise damdged.
Compression (mm)
Since the rear shock absorbers are sealed units which cannot be disassembled, only external checks o f opcra- tion are necessary. With the shocks removed, compress each one and see that the compression stroke i s smooth and that there i s damping in addition to spring resistance to compression. When the unit i s released, the spring should not suddenly snap i t to full length. I t should extend smoothly with notable damping. When the shock absorber i s operated, there should be no oil leakage. I f either shock absorber docs n o t perform all o f thesc operations satisfactorily, or if one unit feels weaker than the other, replace both shock absorbers as
Swing A r m
A. Rubber Bushings
SWING ARM
The swing arm i s designed to work with the shock absorbers to dampen the shock to the frame from the rear wheel. The rear o f the swing arm is connectcd to the frame by the rear shock absorbcrs, while the front
8. Pivot Shaft
21 2
MA1 NTENANCE-CHASSIS
end pivots on a shaft connected to the frame. When the rear wheel receives a shock, the swing arm, pivoting on its shaft, allows the wheel to move up and down in relation to the frame within the limits o f the shock absorbers.
This motorcycle has needle bearings at the swing arm pivot. I f bearing wear has progressed such that the swing arm has become loose, the motorcycle will be unstable. T o minimize wear, the swing arm should be kept properly lubricated.
A bent pivot shaft or twisted swing arm will also cause instability by throwing the rear wheel o u t of alignment. A bent pivot shaft may also cause bearing seizure.
Swing arm bearing wear
Measure the outside diameter o f the swing arm sleeve at both ends with a micrometer. Replace the swing arm sleeve if the diameter is less than the service limit or i f i t shows visible damage.
A. Grease Nipple B. Grease.
A. Swing Arm Sleeve
Table J18 Swing Arm Sleeve
I
Service Limit
/
21.96 mm
1
The rollers in the needle bearings wear so little that the wear is difficult to measure. Instead, inspect the needle bearings for abrasions, color change, or other damage. I f there i s any doubt as to its the condition o f either needle bearing, replace both needle bearings.
Whenever the swing arm sleeve i s replaced, also replace the needle bearings.
Swing arm lubrication
There i s a grease nipple on the swing arm for lubri- cation. Grease the swing arm with regular cup grease as a part o f general lubrication (Pg. 3 3 ) with the fre- quency given in the Periodic Maintenance Chart (Pg.
10). Force the grease into the nipple until i t comes o u t at both sides o f the swing arm, and wipe o f f any excess. I f the grease does n o t come out, first check that the nipple i s not clogged with dirt or old grease.
I f the nipple it clear but still will n o t take grease; re- move the swing arm (Pg. 1 SO), pull o u t the sleeve, clean out the old grease, and apply grease to the needle bearings.
A. Needle Bearing B. Grease.
Pivot shaft
T o measure the pivot shaft runout, set the pivot shaft on V blocks at the end o f the pivot shaft, and set a dial gauge to the shaft halfway between the blocks. Turn the shaft to measure the runout. The amount of runout is the amount o f dial variation. I f the shaft runout exceeds the service limit, straighten it. I f i t cannot be straightened, or i f the runout exceeds the repair limit, replace the shaft.
Pivot Shaft Runout
Table J19 Pivot Shaft Runout
I
Service Limit Repair Limit
1
MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL 213
Maintenance-Electrical
Table of Contents
BATTERY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
CHARGING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
Alternator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
Regulator/Rectifier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
IGNITION SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Ignition Coil
Contact Breaker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Capacitor
TimingAdvancer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
Sparkplug
ELECTRIC STARTER SYSTEM
Starter Motor Circuit
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
Starter Motor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
Starter Motor Clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
IGNITION SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229
NEUTRAL SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
LIGHTING SYSTEM
Headlight Circuit
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
230
230
Brake Light Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
Turn Signal Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
HORN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
SPEEDOMETER. TACHOMETER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
214 MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
BATTERY
The battery supplies the current to the starter motor and serves as a back-up source o f power to operate the electrical equipment whenever the engine i s turning over too slowly for the alternator to supply sufficient power.
With proper care, the battery can be expected to last several years, but i t may be completely ruined long before that i f it i s mistreated. Following a few simple rules will greatly extend the life o f the battery.
1. When the level of the electrolyte in the battery i s low, add only distilled water to each cell, until the level is at the upper level line marked on the outside of the battery. Ordinary tap water is not a substitute for distilled water and will shorten the life of the battery.
2. Never add sulphuric acid solution t o the battery.
This will make the electrolyte solution too strong and will ruin the battery within a very short time.
3. Avoid quick-charging the battery. A quick-charge will damage the battery plates.
4. Never let a good battery stand for more than 30 days without giving i t a supplemental charge, and never let a discharged battery stand without charging it.
I f a battery stands for any length of time, i t slowly self-discharges. Once i t is discharged, the plates sulphate (turn white), and the battery will no longer take a charge.
5. Keep the battery well charged during cold weather so that the electrolyte does not freeze and crack open the battery. The more discharged the battery be- comes, the more easily it freezes.
6. Always keep the battery vent hose free of obstruc- tion, and make sure it does not get pinched, crimped, or melted shut by contact with the hot muffler. If battery gases cannot escape through this hose, they will explode the battery.
7. DON'T INSTALL THE BATTERY BACKWARDS.
The negative side i s grounded.
E l e c t r o l y t e
The electrolyte i s dilute sulphuric acid. The standard specific gravity o f the electrolyte i s 1.280 at 20°C
(68°F). The water in this solution changes to a gaseous mixture due to chemical action in the battery and es- capes, which concentrates the acid in a charged battery.
Consequently, when the level o f the electrolyte becomes low, only distilled water should be added. I f sulphuric acid i s added, the solution will become too strong for proper chemical action and will damage the plates.
Metal from the damaged plates collects in the bottom o f the battery. This sediment will eventually cause an internal short circuit.
The specific gravity o f the electrolyte i s measured with a hydrometer and i s the most accurate indication o f the condition o f the battery. When using the hy- drometer, read the electrolyte level at the bottom o f the meniscus (curved surface o f the fluid). Fig. K 2 shows the relationship between the specific gravity of the solution at 20°C (68°F) and the percentage of battery charge. Since specific gravity varies with temper- ature, and since the temperature o f the solution being checked is likely to be other than 20°C (68°F); the for- mula given below should be used to compute the equiv- alent specific gravity for any temperature. When the temperature goes up, the specific gravity goes down, and vice versa.
Hydrometer
OCelsius
S20 'St + [0.0007 ( t
-
~ F a h r e n h e i t
SG8 = St + [0.0004 ( t
-
St =specific gravity at the present temperature
S20 = specific gravity at 20°C
SS8 =specific gravity at 6 8 " ~ t = present temperature o f solution
Generally speaking, a battery should be charged i f a specific gravity reading shows i t to be discharged to 50% or less o f full charge.
Specific GravitylBattery Charge Relationship m
--- t
+ t t
-
7 - -
-
Full Charge 1.280 ( 2 0 " ~ )
Battery Charge %
Initial charge
New batteries for Kawasaki motorcycles are dry charged and can be used directly after adding the electrolyte. However, the effect o f the dry charge deteriorates somewhat during storage, especially i f any air has entered the battery from imperfect sealing.
Therefore, i t is best to give the battery an initial charge before using it in order t o ensure long battery life.
Because the battery gives off an explosive
LWARNlNG] gas mixture of hydrogen and oxygen, keep any sparks or open flame away from the battery during charging.
.Pour a 1.280 (specific gravity at 2 0 " ~ ric acid solution into each cell o f the batterv
UP to the upper level line.
.Let the battery stand for 30 minutes, adding more acid i f the level drops during this time.
NOTES: 1. I f the temperature o f the solution i s over the battery.
2. After pouring the acid i n t o the battery, start charging the battery within 1 2 hours.
.Leaving the caps o f f the cells, connect the battery t o a charger, set the charging rate at 1/10 the battery capacity, and charge i t for 1 0 hours. For example, i f the battery i s rated at 12AH, the charging rate would be 1.2 ampere. I f a constant voltage charger i s used, the voltage must be adjusted periodically t o keep the current at a constant value.
If the temperature of the electrolyte rises above 4 5 ' ~ during charging, re- duce the charging rate to bring down the temperature, and increase the charging time proportionately.
.After charging, check the electrolyte level in each cell.
I f the level has dropped, add distilled water to bring i t back up to the upper level line.
.Check the results o f charging by measuring the specific gravity o f each cell and by measuring battery voltage.
Battery voltage of a 12 volt battery directly after the completion o f charging should be 15 to 16 volts.
Ordinary charge
Because the battery gives off an explosive gas mixture of hydrogen and oxygen, keep any sparks or open flame away from the battery during charging.
.Clean o f f the battery using a solution o f baking soda and water. Make especially sure that the terminals are clean.
MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
215
.If the electrolyte level is low in any cell, fill t o over the lower level line but not up to the upper level line since the level rises during charging. Figure the charging rate t o be between 1 0 and 311 0 o f battery capacity. For example, the maximum charging rate for a 12AH battery would be 12 x 311 0 which equals
3.6 amperes.
Charging the battery at a rate higher than specified above could ruin the battery.
Charging at a higher rate causes excess heat, which can warp the plates and cause internal shorting. Higher than normal charging rates also cause the plates to shed active meterial. Deposits will accumulate, and can cause inter- nal shorting.
.Measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte, and use the graph, Fig. K2, t o determine the percentage o f dis- charge. Multiply the capacity o f the battery by the percentage o f discharge to find the amount o f discharge in ampere-hours. Use this figure in the formula below t o compute charging time.
Charging time (hours)=
Amount o f discharge ( A H ) x 1.2-1.5 charging current ( A )
.Remove the caps from all the cells, and begin charging the battery at the rate just calculated. I f a constant voltage charger i s used, the voltage will have t o be adjusted periodically to maintain charging current at a constant value.
If the temperature of the electrolyte rises above 4 5 " ~ during charging, re- duce the charging rate to bring down the temperature, and increase charging time proportionately.
.After charging, check the electrolyte level i n each cell.
I f the level has dropped, add distilled water t o bring it back up to the upper level line.
.Check charging results by measuring the specific gravity o f each cell and by measuring battery voltage.
Battery voltage o f a 12 volt battery directly after the completion o f charging should be 15 to 1 6 volts and the specific gravity o f the electrolyte should be more than 1.250. I f the voltage i s lower than this, the battery i s not completely charged or can no longer take a full charge. I f the specific gravity o f any one cell i s lower than 1.250, there may be damage in the cell.
Test charging
When the battery is suspected of being defective, first inspect the points noted in the table below. The
Table K1 Battery Troubleshooting Guide
I
Good Batterv
Plates
Sediment
(+)chocolate color
(--I
P Y
None, or small amount white (sulphated); + plates broken or corroded sediment up to plates, causing short
Vol taae above 12 volts
I
Electrolyte Level
I above ~ l a t e s
Specific Gravity above 1.200 in all cells; no two cells more than 0.020 different below 12 volts
I below top o f plates than 0.020 between two cells
1
Action
Replace
1
Replace
Test charge
I
Fill and test charge
I
Test charge
216 MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
battery can be restored by charging it w i t h the ordinary charge. I f i t will take a charge so that the voltage and specific gravity come up t o normal, i t may be considered good except in the following case:
*
I f the voltage suddenly jumps t o over 13 volts just after the start o f charging, the plates are probably sul- phated. A good battery will rise t o 1 2 volts immediately and then gradually go u p t o 12.5
-
13 volts in about
3 0 t o 6 0 minutes after charging is started.
*
I f one cell produces n o gas bubbles, or has a very l o w specific gravity, it is probably shorted.
*
I f there does n o t appear t o be enough sediment t o short the plates, but one cell has a l o w specific gravity after the battery is fully charged, the trouble may be just that there is insufficient acid in that cell. In this instance only, suiphuric acid solution may be added t o correct the specific gravity.
*
I f a f u l l y charged battery n o t in use loses i t s charge after 2 t o 7 days, or i f the specific gravity drops mark- edly, the battery is defective. The self-discharge rate o f a good battery is only about 1 % per day.
2. For the regulatorlrectifier to function properly, the battery must be charged to near capacity. If the battery is badly discharged, charge it before installing it in the motorcycle.
When handling the alternator rotor:
3. Do not allow the rotor to suffer sharp impacts such as striking it with a hammer or letting i t fall on a hard surface. Such a shock to the rotor can cause the magnets to loss their magnetism.
When there are any problem indications i n the charging system, give the system a quick initial inspec- tion or check before starting a series o f time consuming tests, or worse yet, removing parts for repair or replace- ment. Such a check will often turn up the source o f the trouble.
Make sure all connectors in the circuit are clean and tight. Examine wires for signs o f burning, fraying, etc.
Poor wires and bad connections will affect electrical system operation. Check the regulator/rectifier and alternator for evidence o f physical damage.
A worn o u t or badly sulphated battery will produce numerous problems that cannot be corrected until the battery i s replaced. ALWAYS CHECK BATTERY CON-
D I T I O N BEFORE CONDEMNING OTHER PARTS
OF THE SYSTEM. A F U L L Y CHARGED BATTERY
IS A MUST FOR CONDUCTING ACCURATE
SYSTEMS TESTS.
Charging system malfunctions can be traced t o either the battery, alternator, regulator/rectifier, or the wiring.
Troubles may involve one u n i t or in some cases, all units. Never replace a defective u n i t without deter- mining what CAUSED the failure. I f the failure was brought on b y some other u n i t or units, they too must be repaired o r replaced, o r the new replacement will soon fail.
C H A R G I N G SYSTEM
The charging system consists o f an alternator and regulator/rectifier.
The alternator generates the current required by the electrical circuits. The generated current is a single phase alternating current (AC), which i s changed t o direct current (DC) and controlled b y a solid-state regulator/rectifier t o supply an even voltage t o the cir- c u i t components.
Charging System (332
Regulator
I
Battery
1 7
Initial inspection
Before making this test, check the condition o f the battery (Pg. 214). I f the battery voltage i s less than 12 volts, charge the battery. Before starting the charging voltage test warm u p the engine t o obtain actual alter- nator operating conditions.
.Unlock the seat and swing it open.
.Set the multimeter t o the 20V DC range, and connect the meter (+) lead t o the battery (+) terminal and the meter (-) lead t o the battery (-) terminal.
There are a number o f important precautions that are musts when servicing the charging system. Cautions that are applied t o the individual sections are mentioned in each section. Failure t o observe these rules can result i i i serious system damage. Learn and observe all the rules below.
When handling the regulatorlrectifier, observe the following to avoid damage to the regulatorlrectifier.
1. Do not reverse the battery lead connections. This will burn out the zener diode. A. Battery (+I Terminal B. Battery
(-1
Terminal
MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL 217
.Start the engine, and run the engine at the rpm in Table
K2. Note the voltage reading.
Table K 2 Charging Voltage
I
Meter
I
Connections
20V DC
Meter (t)
* Battery (+)
Meter (-) tf
Battery (-) that no slip rings or brushes are necessary, making the alternator practically maintenance free. The rotor has 6 permanent magnets evenly spaced i n i t s circum- ference t o generate an alternating current w i t h 6 cycles per rotor revolution. about 14.5 V
.If the reading is much higher than the values specified in the table, the regulator/rectifier i s defective or its leads are loose or open. I f the reading does not rise as the engine speed increases, check the alternator output and regulator/rectifier (Pg. 21 8) to determine which part is defective.
Alternator
The alternator i s made o f a rotor 5 and stator
41.
The stator i s mounted in the alternator cover I
, while the rotor i s secured to the left end o f the crankshaft
2 and rotates at engine rpm. Permanent magnets in the rotor supply the magnetic field for the stator so
Alternator Construction m
Alternator failure
I f the battery, regulator/rectifier, leads, and connec- tors are all good, but there i s still low voltage or insuf- ficient charging current, the alternator may be defective.
There are three types o f alternator failures: short, open
(wire burned out), or loss in rotor magnetism. A short or open in the coil wire will result in either a low out- put, or no output at all. A loss in rotor magnetism, which may be caused by dropping or h i t t i n g the rotor, leaving it near an electromagnetic field, or just by aging, will result in low output.
Alternator output test
Before starting alternator output test warm up the engine to obtain actual alternator operating condition.
.Remove the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69), and dis- connect the yellow leads from the alternator. Set the multimeter to the 250V AC scale, and connect one meter leads t o each yellow lead from the alternator.
1 .
Alternator Cover
2. Crankshaft
3. Rotor Bolt
4. Alternator Stator
5. Alternator Rotor
6. Wiring Clamp
7. Alternator Wiring
8. Grommet
9. Crankcase
A. Alternator Leads
.Start the engine, run i t at the rpm given in Table K3, and note the voltage reading. A much lower reading than that given i n the table indicates that the alternator i s defective.
Table K3 Alternator Output
Meter
250 V AC
Reading @4,000 rpm about 75 V
Stator coil resistance check
.Disconnect the meter leads from the alternator leads.
.Set the multimeter to the x 1 Cl range, and measure for continuity between the yellow leads. I f there is more resistance than shown in Table K4, or n o t meter reading, the stator has an open and must be replaced.
218 MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
I f the stator windings have normal resistance, but the voltage check showed the alternator to be defective, then the rotor magnets have probably weakened, and the rotor must be replaced.
A. Alternator Leads
Table K 4 Stator Coil Resistance (measured when cold)
I
Meter Range
I
MeterReading
I
.Using the highest resistance range o f the multimeter, measure the resistance between each o f the yellow leads and chassis ground. Any meter reading less than i n f i n i t y
( 0 0 ) indicates a short, necessitating stator re- placement.
RegulatorIRectifier
The regulator and rectifier are solid-state type, and integrated into one unit. Since i t contains no contacts or other moving parts, i t does not wear o u t and never needs to be adjusted. I t i s therefore manufactured as a sealed unit, and must be replaced as a unit should it become defective. The rectifier in the unit rectifies
(change to direct current, DC) the alternating current
(AC) from the alternator. I t contains four silicon diodes which are connected i n a bridge circuit arrange- ment for efficient, full-wave rectification. The regu- lator in the unit keeps the battery (+) terminal voltage level to a maximum o f the specified range. The control circuit i n the diagram checks on the voltage level, and triggers the thyristors.
Though the actual regulator/rectifier circuit performs full-wave rectification, a simplified single-phase circuit of half-wave rectification i s explained here to aid the technician in troubleshooting and in understanding test procedures. Fig. regulator/rectifier.
K13 shows the basic circuit o f the
The main components o f the regulator/rectifier circuit are a thyristor (Th), or Silicon
Controlled Rectifier (SCR) as it i s also called, and a diode. The diode, thyristor (Th), and zener aiode (ZD) function as follows:
1. Diode
A current o f electrons can flow only from the cathode to the anode o f the diode. However, a defective diode will either conduct i n both directions (a short) or not conduct at all (an open). I f any o f the diodes i s shorted or open, the voltage from the regulator/rectifier will be below normal, and the battery may not be charged adequately.
A. Alternator Lead
Regulator/Rectifier
Brown
Rectifier ' Regulator Black I
MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL 219
Diode Current Flow Zener Diode
Current flows
> c
No current flows
More than break down voltage
Current flows
1 d In the rcgulator/rectifier circuit, the diode is connect- ed in series with the alternator to rectify the alternator output, and the thyristor i s connected in parallel with the alternator. Detailed circuit operation i s as follows:
When the battery voltage is lower than the specified value, the zener diode does not conduct and the control
2. Thyristor
The current of electrons will flow from the cathode to the anode but will not f l o w in the reverse direction. unit does n o t trigger the thyristor. A t this time, the thyristor does not conduct, and all alternator output current flows through the battery and loads t o supply adequate charging current.
The thyristor differs from a diode in t w o respects:
(a) even through a voltage o f the correct polarity
(negative to cathode) may be applied, the thyristor will not conduct until a signal is received at the gate input lead; (b) once started, it will not stop conducting
(even i f the gate lead signal voltage stops) until the anode to cathode voltage i s removed or reversed.
Thyristor
When the battery voltage i s equal to or higher than the predetermined voltage, the zener diode conducts and the control unit signals the thyristor t o start con- ducting. Then, instead o f current going through the battery and overcharging it, i t flows through the thyristor and then directly back to the alternator.
Basic Regulator/Rectifier Circuit
@-a
1. When battery voltage i s low (Thyristor i s o f f ) .
A (modc) K (cathode)
G (gclte)
2. When battery voltage i s high (Thyristor i s on t o provide bypass).
3. Zener diode
As in a normal diode, current will flow easily from the cathode to anode, and will not usually f l o w in the opposite direction. Unlike a normal diode, however, the zener diode will "break down", or conduct in the reverse direction, i f enough voltage i s applied in the reverse direction. When this voltage i s lowered or removed, the diode will stop conducting and return to its normal state. The voltage at which the diode begins reverse conduction, i s called the breakdown voltage, and is set at the desired level when the diode i s manufactured. This property o f the zener diode makes i t very useful in voltage regulator circuits.
1. Alternator
2. Thyristor
3. Diode
4.
5.
6.
Control U n i t
Battery
Load
220 MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
Rectifier inspection
.With the ignition switch turned off, remove the left side cover, open the electrical cover, and remove the electrical panel. Disconnect the regulator/rectifier whitelred lead and white connector.
A. Electrical Panel
B. RegulatorIRectifier
C. WhiteIRed Lead
D . White Connector
.Using the x 10 or x 100 a range, check the resist- ance in both directions between the whitelred lead and each yellow lead, and between the black lead and each yellow lead. There i s a total o f 8 measurements. The resistance should be low in one direction and more than ten times as much in the other direction. I f any t w o leads are low or high in both directions, the rectifier is defective and must be replaced.
The test light works as an indicator and
ICAVTib-Fjl also as a current limiter to protect the regulator/rectifier from excessive current. Do not use an ammeter instead of a test light.
C o n n e c t the brown lead to the other battery (+) terminal and connect the black lead to the battery
(-) terminal momentarily. A t this time the bulb should not be lit.
.To apply 24 V to the regulator/rectifier, connect two
12V batteries in series. and connect the brown lead to the battery (+) terminal and the black lead to the battery (-) terminal momentarily. The bulb should now light and stay on until the bulb circuit i s opened.
D o not apply more than 24 volts. I f more than 24 V is applied, the regulator1 rectifier may be damaged. D o not apply 24 V more than a few seconds. I f 2 4 V is applied for more than a few seconds, the regulatorlrectifier may be damaged.
.Replace the regulator/rectifier i f the bulb does not light as described above.
NOTE: The above t e s t is n o t foolproof. If the above checks show the regulator/rectifier i s not damaged, but there i s still trouble in the charging system, first careful- ly inspect the alternator, battery, wiring, and all connec- tions. Replace the regulator/rectifier i t all these other components turn o u t good.
Regulator Test
Rectifier Test
Bulb
A. RegulatorIRectifier
N O T E : The actual meter reading varies with the meter used and the individual rectifier, but, generally speaking, the lower reading should be within 113 scale o f zero ohms.
Regulator test
T o test the regulator out o f circuit, use three 12V batteries and a test light made from a 1 2 V 3 -6W bulb in a socket with leads.
.Remove the regulator/rectifier from the frame.
.Using auxiliary leads, connect one o f the yellow leads t o the battery (-) terminal, and connect the test light between the black lead and the battery (+) terminal.
A t this time the bulb should not be lit.
IGNITION SYSTEM
The working electrical part o f the ignition system consists o f the battery, two sets o f contact breaker points, two capacitors, two ignition coils, and four spark plugs. The timing advancer i s attached to advance the ignition timing as engine rpm rises.
lgnition Circuit
Cdpacitor I I lgnition
Switch
Engine
Stop
Switch
Rd!? lgnition Coil .
A wiring diagram of onc half of the ignition 5ystcm is shown in Fig. K17. Thc othcr half is identicdl, and works as follows. The battery supplie5 the current for the primdry circuit, which includes thc contact breaker points, capacitor, and thc primary winding of the ig- nition coil. When thc points suddenly opcn with thc ignition $witch turned on, a surge o f electrons is pro- duced in the sccondary circuit, which includes the ignition coil secondary winding and the two spark plugs. The two scts of points and two coils take the place of a distributor, which i s left out to increase the reliability o f the system. Each set o f points fires two spark plugs every time the two pistons rise, that is, once every 360" of crankshaft rotation. Since the two sets of points (and the two scts o f pistons) are
180" out of phase, plugs 2 and 3 fire 180" o f crankshaft rotation after plugs 1 dnd 4 fire, and vice versa. For this systcm to function properly, all ignition parts must bc in good order, the ignition timing correctly set, the ignition and enginc stop switches not shorted, and all wiring in good condition (no shorts or brcaks, and no loose or corroded connections).
Ordinarily in a 4-stroke engine, a spark jumps across the spark plug electrodes only every other time that the piston for that spark plug rises (once every 720" o f crankshaft rotation). This i s because between each com- pression stroke, in which a fuellair mixture ready for combustion i s in the cylinder, there i s an exhaust stroke, in which the piston rises only to push out the burned gases. However, even i f d spark does jump across the clectrodcs during the exhaust stroke, there i s no effect since there i s no compression and no fuel to burn.
Therefore, to eliminate any need for a distributor (thus simplifying thc system and making i t more reliable), the system is constructed so that both spark plugs fire every time both pistons rise (once every 360" of crankshaft rotation) although one piston is on the compression stroke and the other on thc exhaust strokc.
MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL 221
Because the two spark plugs arc connected in series, the current through one spark plug also must go through the othcr. Consequently, i f a spark will not jump across the electrodcs of one spark plug (due to dirty electrodes, faulty plug Icad, etc.), no spark will jump across the electrodcs o f the other plug as well.
lgnition Coil
With the ignition switch on and the points closed, current flows in the primary circuit, including the igni- tion coil primary winding where the magnctic field
(which accompanies electron flow) i s concentrated (due to the winding). When the points open, this circuit i s brokcn stopping the electron flow and collapsing the magnetic field. As this field collapses, magnetic flux cuts through the secondary winding inducing a current in the winding. The voltage of this current, depending on the numbcr o f turns in the secondary winding and the speed o f thc drop in the primary winding voltage, i s much grcater than the voltage in the primary winding.
I t i s this high voltage that causes a spark to jump across the spark plug electrodes. A grcater ratio o f secondary winding turns over primary winding turns and a sharper drop o f primary winding voltage increase thc secondary winding voltage that is produced. For this reason, a certain ratio o f turns in the ignition coil has been chosen and a certain voltage drop sharpness (determined by capacitor and breaker point performance) has bccn designed into the ignition system so that a spark o f sufficient but not excessive strcngth will be produced.
Coil inspection
The most accurate test for determining the condi- tion o f the ignition coil i s made by measuring arcing distance with the Kawasaki Electrotester (special tool:
PIN 57001-980). Since a tester other than thc Kawasaki
Elcctrotester may produce d different arcing distance, the Kawasaki Electrotcster i s recommended for reliable results.
@Remove the ignition coil.
*Connect the ignition coil to the Kawasaki Electrotester as shown in the figure. lgnition Coil Test
Electrotester
Voltage
Source
Ignition Coil
01
222 MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
@Turn on the tester switches.
DO not touch the coil or leads t o avoid extremely high voltage shocks.
@Gradually slide the arcing distance adjusting knob from left t o right (small distance t o large distance) carefully watching the arcing.
@Stop moving the knob at the point where the arcing begins t o fluctuate, and note the knob position i n mm.
The reading should show the value in Table K5.
Table K5 Arcing Distance?
Standard
1
6 mm or more t
Measure with the Kawasaki Electrotester
I f the distance reading i s less than the value shown i n the table, the ignition coil or spark plug caps are defective. T o determine which part i s defective, measure the arcing distance again with the spark plug caps removed from the ignition coil. If the arcing distance i s subnormal as before, the trouble i s with the ignition coil itself. I f the arcing distance is now normal, the trouble i s with the spark plug caps.
I f an Electrotester i s not available, the coil can be checked for a broken or badly shorted winding with an ohmmeter. However, an ohmmeter cannot detect layer shorts and shorts resulting from insulation break- down under high voltage.
T o measure the primary winding resistance:
@Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47)) and disconnect the ignition coil leads.
@Set the ohmmeter to the x 1 S2 range, and connect one ohmmeter lead to the yellow/red lead and the other to the green or black lead from the ignition coil.
A. Spark Plug Leads
Table K6 lgnition Coil Resistance
(measured when cold)
Primary Winding
Secondary Winding
Meter Range x 1 L2 x 1 kL2
Meter Reading
3.2-4.8 S2
10.4-1 5.6 kS2
I f the coil does not produce an adequate spark, or i f either the primary or secondary winding does not have the correct resistance, replace the ignition coil.
With the highest ohmmeter range, check for conti- nuity between each ignition coil yellow/red lead, and one spark plug lead and the coil core (two tests on each coil). I f there is any reading, the coil i s shorted and must be replaced. Also, replace the ignition coil i f either spark plug lead shows visible damage.
A. Ignition Coil Leads B. Ignition Coil
T o measure the secondary winding resistance:
@Unscrew the spark plug caps from the spark plug leads.
@Set the ohmmeter to the x 1 kS2 range, and connect one ohmmeter lead to one o f the spark plug leads and the other ohmmeter lead to the remaining spark plug lead.
A. Spark Plug Lead B. Yellow/Red Lead
Contact Breaker
The contact breaker consists o f one fixed and one movable contact point. The movable point i s pivoted, and the heel on one end is held against the cam surface on the timing advancer by a single leaf spring. As the crankshaft rotates, the heel rides on the cam surface, and, as the crankshaft reaches the position where igni- tion takes place, the high spot on the cam surface pushes out on the heel, which opens the points. As the heel wears down, the point gap narrows, affecting ignition timing. Consequently, the ignition timing and point gap must be periodically adjusted to compensate for heel wear.
Contact breaker inspection
When the points become dirty, pitted, or burned, or i f the spring weakens, the points will not make the contact necessary t o produce a good spark, resulting in unstable idling, misfiring, or the engine not running at all. Inspect the contact breaker in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart (Pg. lo), and repair or replace i f necessary.
Clean the points with clean paper or cloth using an oil-free solvent. A business card soaked in trichloro- ethylene can be used to remove traces o f oil. T o repair light damage, use emery cloth or an oilstone. I f the points are badly worn down or damaged, or i f the spring i s weak, replace the contact breaker
MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL 223
appears defective and whenever the contact breaker i s replaced.
NOTE: For checking with a capacitor tester, capacitor specifications are: 0.24
+
0.02pF, 1,000 WVDC.
Capacitor Test
Capacitor Tester
Capacitor
A. Points B. Emery Cloth C. Felt
Whenever the contact breaker is inspected or re- placed, apply a small amount o f point cam grease to the felt to lubricate the cam. This will minimize wear o f the contact breaker heel. Be careful not t o apply so much grease that i t can drop o f f or be thrown onto the points, which will cause the points t o foul and burn.
Capacitor
A capacitor i s connected in parallel across each set o f contact breaker points and serves to prevent current f r o m arcing across the points as they open. Arcing across the points would reduce the sharpness of the voltage drop in the primary winding, thus weakening the spark plug spark, and also damaging the surface o f the points. When the points are first opening, the capacitor absorbs a certain amount o f current, giving the points time to open far enough apart to where current will not arc across. However, i f the capacitor shorts, the current will simply flow through the capaci- tor whenever the points open. When the capacitor i s otherwise defective, the current will not be prevented from arcing across the points at the time o f ignition, resulting in poor spark plug performance and burned and pitted points.
Capacitor inspection
The capacitor can usually be considered to be defec- tive i f a long spark i s seen arcing across the points as they open or i f the points are burned or pitted for no apparent reason. Replace the capacitor any time i t
Timing Advancer
The timing advancer i s a device that advances the ignition timing (makes the spark plugs fire sooner) as engine rpm rises. I t consists of two weights and t w o springs connected to the timing cam that opens the contact breaker points. The more the engine speed rises, the further the weights are thrown out against spring tension, turning the cam in the direction o f crankshaft rotation and causing the points to open sooner.
Ignition TimingIEngine Speed Relationship
Engine Speed (rpm)
224 MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
I f the mechanism is damaged, has d weak or broken spring(s), or docs not move smoothly, the ignition timing will not advance smoothly or i t may stick in one position. This will result in incorrect timing at certain engine speeds, causing poor engine performance. Failure to advance at all will cause poor high speed performance, and excessive advance will cause knocking and poor low speed performance.
Inspection and lubrication
Check that the mechanism moves smoothly by hand and that no parts are visually worn or damaged. Peri- odically wipe the advancer clean, apply oil to it, and fill the groove in the advancer cam with grease.
Tests have shown the NGK D 8 E A o r N D X24ES-U,set to a 0.6-0.7 m m gap t o be the best plug for general use.
I f d plug o f the wrong heat range i s used, the elec- trodes may not hot enough to keep all the carbon burn- ed off, but cool enough to keep from damaging the engine dnd the plug itself
- about 4 0 0 - 8 0 0 ' ~ (750-
1,450" F).
The carbon on the electrodes conducts electricity, and can short the center elec- trode to ground by either coating the ceramic insulator or bridging across the gap. Such a short will prevent an effective spark. Carbon build-up on the plug can also cause other troubles. It can heat up red-hot and cause preignition and knocking, which may eventually burn a hole in the top of the piston. The heat range of the spark plug functions like a thermostat for the engine.
Using the wrong type of spark plug can make the engine run too hot (resulting in engine damage) or too cold
(with poor performance, misfiring, and stalling). The standard plug has been selected to match the normal usage of this motorcycle in combined street and highway riding.
Spark Plug
A. Timing Advancer Cam B. Moves smoothly.
A. Advancer Cam
B. Grease.
C. Oil.
Install the advancer (Pg. 78), adjust the timing (Pg.
12), and check i t with a strobe light for both low and high speed operation (Pg. 14). I f the timing differs from that which is shown in the graph (Fig. K24), re- place the timing advancer with a new one.
Spark Plug
The spark plugs ignite the fuellair mixture in the combustion chamber. To do this effectively and at the proper time, the correct spark plugs must be used, and the spark plugs must be kept clean and adjusted.
1. Terminal
2. Insulator
3. Cement
4. Gasket
5. Center Electrode
6. Side Electrode
Table K 7 Spark Plug Specifications
I
Required Plug Threads
1
Type
Diameter : 12.0 m m
Pitch : 1.25 m m
I
N D X24ES-U
N G K D 8 E A Reach : 19.0 m m
I
1
ELECTRIC STARTER SYSTEM
Starter Motor Circuit
The starter motor circuit includes the starter button
(switch), starter lockout switch, starter relay, battery, and starter motor. The starter lockout switch mounted on the clutch lever holder i s designed to prevent starter motor operation unless the clutch i s disengaged. When the ignition switch i s on, the clutch lever is pulled (the starter lockout switch is on), and the starter button i s pushed, a small amount o f current flows through the switches and the relay coil. This current magnetizes the relay core, which then pulls the armature to it, closing the relay contacts. The closed contacts complete a circuit for the starter motor, and the motor turns. The reason for using a relay instead o f using the switch to turn on the starter motor directly i s that the starter motor requires much current - enough that relatively thick wire is necessary to carry the current to the starter motor. Because i t i s not practical to put a heavy switch on the handlebar and have large wires running to it, the starter switch i s made to carry just the light relay coil current, and heavy contacts inside the relay carry the starter motor current.
Because of the large amount of current, never keep the starter button pushed any time that the starter motor will not turn over, or the current may burn out the starter motor windings.
MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL 225
Starter relay test
Disconnect the starter motor lead from the starter relay in the electrical cover, and connect an ohmmeter set to the x 1 range across the relay terminals. Pulling the clutch lever, push the starter button, and see i f the meter reads zero ohms. I f the relay makes a single clicking sound and the meter reads zero, the relay i s good. I f the relay clicks but the meter does n o t read zero, the relay i s defective and must be replaced.
Starter Motor Circuit a281
I f the relay does not click at all, disconnect the other two leads (black and yellow/red), and measure the re- sistance across them. I f the resistance i s n o t close to zero ohms, the relay i s defective.
Starter
Motor
Starter
Relay
Engine
Stop Switch
A. Starter Relay
B. YellowIRed Lead
C. Black Lead
However, if there i s about zero ohms resistance, the relay may be good; check that there i s actually voltage to the relay before deciding that the relay i s defective.
T o check for the voltage, first turn the meter t o 20V DC, connect the (-) meter lead to the yellow/red lead which was disconnected from the relay lead, and connect the
(+) meter lead to the black lead. Pulling the clutch lever, push the starter button, and see i f the meter reads battery voltage. I f the meter does not, there is wiring, starter lockout switch, or starter switch trouble.
226 MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
I f the meter redds battery voltage but the relay does not click, the relay i 5 defective.
A. 4-pin Connector B. Yellow Lead
A. YellowIRed Lead
B. Meter (-1 Lead
C. Black Lead
D. Meter (+) Lead
Starter lockout switch test
Remove the headlight unit (Pg.l37),and disconnect the t w o starter lockout switch black leads in the head- light housing. Connect an ohmmeter set t o the x I R range across the two black leads. Pull the clutch lever, and see i f the meter reads zero ohms. I f the meter docs not, the starter lockout switch i s defective and must be replaced.
Starter Motor
The starter motor i s installed with an idle gear to transmit starter motor rotation to the crankshaft. A starter clutch (Pg. 228) disengages the starter motor once the engine starts.
Fig. K35 shows starter motor construction. The field coils 5 are wound around four cores, forming the yoke
8 , and the armature windings 6 are connected to the commutdtor 12 and receive their current through the brushes 1 1
.
I f the brushes are not making good contdct, no starter motor current will flow since the field coils and armature windings arc connected in series, and the motor will not turn over. A short or open in a coil or winding may also cause the motor to be inoperative.
Particles from brush wear may be another cause o f starter motor failure; these particles may get into the bearing at the rear o f the motor, causing heat seizure.
Carbon brushes
Worn brushes or weak springs will cause poor brush con tact.
Measure the length o f the brushes, and replace both i f either one i s worn down to less than the service limit.
A. Switch Leads
Starter switch test
Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47), and disconnect the 4-pin connector and black lead from the right switch housing. Connect an ohmmeter s e t to the x l
R range across the yellow and the black leads.
Push the starter button, and see i f the meter reads zero ohms. I f the meter does not, the starter switch i s defective and the entire right switch housing assembly must be replaced.
A. Carbon Brush
Table K8 Carbon Brush Lenath
Service L i m i t 6 m m
Starter Motor Construction
MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
227
1. Shaft
2. 0
3. Grease Seal
4.
5. Field Coil
6. Armature Coil
7. Core
8. Yoke Assembly
9.
10. Spring
Brush
spring
Spring tension should be 560-680 grams but a spring can be considered serviceable i f i t will snap the brush firmly into place.
11. Brush
12. Commutdtor
13. End Cover
14. Terminal Cover
15. Screw
16. Lead
17. End Cover
A. Springs B. Brushes
Commutator
A dirty or damaged commutator will result in poor brush contact and cause the brushes to wear down quickly. In addition, particles from brush wear accu- mulating between commutator segments may cause par- tial shorts.
Smooth the commutator surface i f necessary with fine emery cloth, and clean out the grooves as illus- trated. Determine as dccurately as possible the depth o f the grooves between commutator segments. Replace the armature with a new one i f the groove depth i s less than the service limit.
A. Emery Cloth
Commutator Groove
B. Armature
Good
--
K38
228 MA1 NTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
Table K9 Commutator Groove Depth
Service Limit
1
0.2 mm
I
Using the x 1 R ohmmeter range, measure the re- sistance between any two commutator segments. I f there is a high resistance or no reading between any two segments, a winding is open and the armature must be replaced. motor terminal. I f there is not close to zero ohms, the field coils have an open and the yoke assembly must be replaced.
A. Terminal B. (+) Side Carbon Brush
A. Armature B. Commutator Segments
Using the highest ohmmeter range, measure the re- sistance between the commutator and the shaft. I f there is any reading at all, the armature has a short and must be replaced.
Using the highest ohmmeter range, measure the resist- ance between the (+) side carbon brush and the yoke
(housing). I f there i s any meter reading, the coils are shorted t o ground and the yoke assembly must be re- placed.
A.
(+I
Side Carbon Brush B. Yoke
A. Commutator B. Shaft
Even i f the foregoing checks shows the armature to be good, i t may be defective in some manner not readily detectable with an ohmmeter. I f all other starter motor and starter motor circuit components check good, but the starter motor still does not turn over or only turns over weakly, replace the armature with a new one.
Field coils
Using the x 1 R ohmmeter range, measure the resist- ance between the (+) side carbon brush and the starter
Starter Motor Clutch
Fig. K43 shows starter motor clutch. The clutch body 3 i s connected to the crankshaft 3 secondary sprocket and the primary chain. When the starter clutch gear 2 rotates in the direction o f the arrow, each o f the three rollers 4
, pushed by its spring clutch body and the starter clutch gear hub (the portion jutting out from the ,gear), thereby locking the clutch body and starter clutch gear together. With these t w o locked, starter motor rotation i s transmitted to the crankshaft through the starter idle gear, starter clutch gear, rollers, clutch body, secondary sprocket, and primary chain.
Starter Motor Clutch Operation
:KT$
MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL 229
A. Starter Motor Idle Gear 6. Turn freely.
IGNITION SWITCH
The ignition switch has four positions: off, on, lock, and park. In the o f f and lock position all circuits are turned o f f and the key can be removed from the switch.
In the on position the motorcycle can be started and all electrical equipment can be used. The key cannot be removed from the switch when i t i s in the on position.
In the park position the tail light is on, but all other circuits are cut o f f and the key can be removed from the switch. This provides added visibility when the motorcycle is parked.
1. Clutch Body
2 . Clutch Gear
3. Crankshaft
4. Roller
5. Spring Cap
6. Spring
When the engine starts, friction with the starter clutch gear (and at higher speeds, inertia) moves the rollers back against the tension o f their springs so that they no longer serve as wedges locking the clutch body and starter clutch gear together. In this manner, the engine rotates freely without forcing the starter motor t o turn with i t .
I f the rollers or the starter clutch gear hub be- comes damaged or worn, the rollers may lock in place so that the starter motor will not disengage when the engine starts. On the other hand, roller or sprocket hub damagc could prevent the clutch from engaging proper- ly, causing the starter motor to run freely without transmitting rotation.
Testing the switch
Table K10 shows the internal connections o f the ignition switch for each switch position. T o check the switch, remove the headlight unit (Pg. 1 3 7 ) , and dis- connect the 6-pin connector from the switch. Then use an ohmmeter t o verify that all the connections listed in the table are making contact (zero ohms between those wires), and that no other wires are connected.
I f there are any opens or shorts in the switch, replace i t with a new one.
Clutch inspection
Remove the starter motor (Pg. 7 3 ) , and turn the starter motor idle gear by hand. When viewed from the left side o f the engine, the starter motor idle gear should turn counterclockwise freely, but should not turn clockwise. I f the clutch does not operate as i t should or i f i t makes noise, disassemble the starter clutch (Pg. 87), examine each part visually, and replace any worn or damagc parts.
A. 6-pin Connector
230 MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
Table K10 Ignition Switch Connections
1
Lead
I
Ignition
I
Battery
1
Tail 3
/
Tail I
/
Tail 21
I
Color
I
Yellow
I
White
/
Brown
I
Blue
I
Red
I
OFF
ON
PARK
I
I * .
*To check the neutral switch, first remove the switch
(Pg. 73), turn the meter to the x 1 range, and meas- ure the resistance between the switch terminal and the spring loaded pin. I f the resistance i s n o t close to zero ohms, the switch i s defective, and must be re- placed.
N E U T R A L SWITCH
A neutral indicator light i s provided so that the rider can readily determine whether or not the trans- mission i s in neutral. The neutral switch, installed in the external shift mechanism cover, consists o f a spring loaded pin which contacts the outer surface o f the shift drum pin plate when the transmission is in neutral. This completes the neutral indicator light circuit, which turns on the neutral indicator light.
Switch inspection
*Turn on the ignition switch. Watching the indicator light, shift the transmission into neutral and then shift the transmission into other positions. I f the neutral indicator light goes on in neutral position and the light does not go on in other positions, the neutral switch is good.
* I f the neutral indicator light does not go on in the neutral position or i f i t does go on in other positions, remove the engine sprocket cover, (Pg. 69), and dis- connect the neutral switch light green lead.
*To check for the voltage, first turn the meter to 20V
DC, connect the (+) meter lead to the switch lead, and connect the (-) meter lead to chassis ground.
*Turn the ignition switch on, and see i f the meter reads battery voltage. I f the meter does not indicate battery voltage, the trouble i s either defective wiring or a burned-out indicator bulb. I f the voltmeter reads battery voltage, then the neutral switch may be defec- tive.
A. Switch Terminal B. Spring Loaded Pin
*If the resistance i s close to zero ohms, measure the resistance between the switch terminal or spring loaded pin and the switch body. I f there i s any meter reading, the neutral switch i s defective and must be replaced.
A. Switch Terminal B. Switch Body
A. Neutral Switch B. Switch Lead
L I G H T I N G SYSTEM
Headlight Circuit
Fig. K49 i s the wiring diagram o f the headlight circuit.
With the ignition switch on, the center C L
( 0 ) position o f the headlight switch turns on the small city light in the headlight housing, tail light and meter lights for driving in the city after dark. When the switch i s turned to the on position, the headlight illuminates and the city light stays on. High and low beam can be selected only when the headlight switch i s in the on position.
MAINTENANCE-E LECTRICAL 231
Headlight Circuit
Headlight
0
Ih
R/Bk
Bk/Y
Br/W i
9
High Beam
Indicator
Light
Tail Light n
U
Fuse rl
- Regulator/
Ignition
Switch r +
- ~
I
Battery I i
Brown
Red
Fuse
Headlight Switch
There is also a passing and horn button. This button i s spring loaded and when the button i s pushed to pass, the high beam light (but not the tail light) comes on as a passing signal to the driver o f the vehicle ahead. The passing button will light the high beam light regardless o f the headlight switch position, and the button will spring back and turn the light o f f as soon as i t i s re- leased.
Table K12 Headlight Switch Connections
OFF
0
I
I
1
I
BrownlWhite Brown
0
BlueIWhite
H e a d l i g h t t r o u b l e
I f the headlight does not light, check t o see i f the bulb has burned out or fuses have blown. A burned headlight and a blown fuse should be replaced. I f the bulb and fuses are good, check the headlight switch and dimmer switch. Tables K 1 1 and K12 show the connec- tions in the dimmer switch for both high and low beam and the connections in the headlight switch. Remove the fuel tank, and disconnect the 6-pin connector and blue lead to the dimmer switch or the 4-pin connector and bluelwhite lead to the headlight switch. Use an ohmmeter to see that only the connections shown in the table have continuity (zero ohms). I f the switch has an open or a short, i t can be disassembled for repair.
The contact surfaces may be cleaned, but no internal parts are available for replacement. I f any parts are not repairable, the switch must be replaced as a unit. I f the procedure above does not remedy the problem, check the ignition switch and the wiring.
Table K11 Dimmer Switch Connections
I 1
RedIBlack
1
Blue
1
RedIYellow
1
A. 6-pin Connector
B. C p i n Connector
C. Blue Lead
D. BlueIWhite Lead
I f the headlight lights but does not light brightly, the trouble may be that the headlight i s o f improper wattage or the alternator i s not supplying sufficient current. However, the trouble may also be caused by a short or a component drawing too much current i n other part o f the electrical system.
T a i l light t r o u b l e
I f the tail light does not go on when the circuit i s closed, the filament is probably burned out. However,
232 MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
i f the bulb is good, check the fuses, wiring, ignition switch, headlight switch, and battery.
Brake Light Circuit
The brake light circuit is shown i n Fig. K51. When the ignition switch is turned on, the brake light goes on whenever the circuit is closed by either the front or rear brake light switch. The same bulb is used for b o t h the brake and tail lights as explained in the preceding section.
Brake Light Circuit
&>
.Disconnect the front brake light switch leads (brown and blue).
.Set an ohmmeter t o the x 1 range, connect the meter t o the switch terminals, and determine whether or n o t there is continuity whenever the front brake lever i s saueezed.
A. Front Brake Light Switch Leads
.If there i s no continuity, replace the switch.
Rear brake light switch inspection
.Disconnect the rear brake light switch leads (blue and brown) i n the right side cover.
.Inspect i n the same way that the front brake light switch was inspected. I f there is no continuity when- ever the rear brake pedal i s depressed, replace the switch.
The f r o n t brake light switch, mounted on the front brake lever holder, i s actuated when pressed b y the front brake lever. The f r o n t brake light switch never requires adjustment, and so is n o t designed t o be adjusted. It cannot be disassembled f o r repair and must be replaced when defective.
The rear brake light switch is a plunger type switch actuated by a spring attached t o the rear brake pedal. I t can be adjusted by changing i t s position higher or lower i n the mounting bracket (Pg. 30).
The brake light failure indicator switch i s in the brake light circuit as a warning device t o indicate whether or n o t the brake light i s functioning properly during vehicle operation. Brake light failure may be due t o a burned o u t bulb o r some other failure in the brake light circuit.
Brake light circuit inspection involves the f r o n t brake light switch, rear brake light switch, brake light, brake light failure indicator switch, brake light failure indicator light, and wiring.
Front brake light switch inspection
.Remove the headlight u n i t (Pg. 137).
A. Rear Brake Light Switch Leads
B. Rear Brake Light Switch
Brake light failure indicator switch inspection
Turn on the ignition switch. Watching the indicator light (stop lamp), apply and then release either brake.
Next, w i t h the taillbrake light bulb removed, do the same above. I f the indicator lights operates as shown in Table K13, the brake light failure indicator switch and brake light circuit are functioning properly.
MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
233
A. lndicator Light A. Brake Light Failure lndicator Switch
B. 3-pin Socket C. 3-pin Plug
Table K13 Brake Light Failure lndicator Switch Test
TailjBrake
Light Bulb
In place
Out o f place
Brake Lever or Pedal
A ~ p l i e d
I
Released
-
Goes On Goes O f f
Goes On Flashes
I f the meter does not read according t o this table, there may be an open or short. I n case the voltage o f the greenlwhite lead shows 0 V, the indicator bulb may be burned out.
(2)Brake light failure indicator switch inspection:
.Make sure that the brake light operates properly, and that the brake light wiring i s not damaged.
C o n n e c t the indicator switch 3-pin connector.
.Measure the voltage at the 3-pin connector as shown i n Table K15.
I f the brake light failure indicator does n o t function properly, find out whether the brake light wiring is defective or the failure indicator switch is defective.
The easiest way to test the failure indicator switch i s to install and check the suspect switch on a motorcycle with a known good brake light circuit. When this method i s impossible, check the circuit as follows (the battery must be charged).
(1)Brake light wiring inspection:
C h e c k brake light operation and replace any defec- tive parts. The brake light must go on only when the brake is applied.
.Remove the left side cover, open the electrical cover, and disconnect the indicator switch 3-pin plug.
.Set an ohmmeter to the x to the 20V DC range. Check the wiring as shown in Table K14.
To prevent a meter burning, turn off the ignition switch while using an ohmmeter.
A. Brake Light Failure lndicator Switch
B. 3-pin Connector
I
Table K14 Brake Liaht Wirina lnsoection
Meter Range
I
Connections
Meter (+) Lead
+
Blue Lead
Meter (-) Lead
+
Chassis Ground
20V DC x l n
I
Brake
Apply
Release
Meter (+) Lead
+
GreenIWhite Lead -
Meter (-) Lead
+
Chassis Ground
1 , I I I I I
BlacklYellow Lead
+
Chassis Ground
I -
Reading
Battery Voltage
I
0 V
Battery Voltage
On
J
I
Table K15 lndicator Switch Inspection
(
Meter Range
I
Connections
Meter (+) Lead
+
Yellow Lead
Meter (-) Lead
+
Chassis Ground
20V DC
Meter (+) Lead + GreenIWhite Lead
Meter (-) Lead
+
Chassis Ground
Brake
Apply
Release
Apply
Release
I
Reading
Battery Voltage
1
0 V
0 V
Batterv Voltage
234 M A I N T E N A N C E - E L E C T R I C A L
If any one o f the meter readings shows an improper value, the brake light failure indicator switch is defective.
Turn Signal Circuit
A wiring diagram o f the turn signal circuit is shown in Fig. K58. When the ignition switch is on and the turn signal switch i s turned t o R or L, a ground i s provided for the circuit so current can flow. Current t o the right or left turn signals flows through the closed contacts and the resistance wire inside the turn signal relay, and the turn signals go on. The resistance wire quickly heats up, expands, and allows a spring t o pull the contacts open. When the contacts have opened, the circuits i s broken, the t u r n signals go off, and the resistance wire cools and contracts, closing the contacts so that the cycle can begin again. The indicator light i n the t u r n signal circuit flashes on and o f f with the t u r n signals t o indicate that they are working properly.
Turn Signal Relay
Turn Signal Circuit
Lett
Signdl
Lights
Signal
Switch
Kcgu lator/
Rectifier
Kizht
Turn
Signal
Liahts
Ignition
Switch
1. Resistance Wire
Since the turn signal relay i s designcd t o operate correctly only when t w o turn signals (one f r o n t and one rear) and the turn signal indicator light are properly connected i n the circuit, trouble may result f r o m a burned o u t bulb, a bulb o f incorrect wattage, loose wiring, as well as from a defect i n the relay itself. I n general, if the trouble with the circuit is common t o b o t h right and left turn signals, it i s probably caused by a defective turn signal relay, although it may be due t o a bad switch, wiring, or battery. I f the trouble i s with only one side
- then the relay is n o t at fault since the same relay is used f o r both side.
Turn signal trouble
(1)Neither right nor left turn signals come on at all:
*Check that battery voltage is normal.
*Remove the left side cover, and open the electrical cover.
*Unplug the brown lead and orange lead f r o m the relay, and use an ohmmeter t o check that there i s continuity (close t o zero ohms) between the relay terminals. I f there i s n o ohmmeter reading, or if there is several ohms resistance, replace the relay with a new one.
A. Turn Signal Relay
* I f the relay checks good, turn the meter t o the 20V
DC range, connect the (+) meter lead t o the brown lead that was disconnected f r o m the relay, and connect the (-) meter lead t o the orange lead. With the ignition switch on, first switch the turn signal switch t o the R and then t o the L position. The meter should resister battery voltage at either posi- tion. I f it does not, the fuse, ignition switch, or wiring i s at fault. I f battery voltage i s read on the meter b u t the turn signals still will n o t work when the relay is reconnected, then recheck all wiring connections.
MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
235 released. Since each cycle takes only d fraction o f a second, the didphragm moves fast enough to produce sound.
Horn Construction
A. Meter (+) Lead
B. Meter (-1 Lead
C. Brown Lead
D. Orange Lead
(2)Both right or both left turn signal come on and stay on or flash too slowly:
*Check that battery voltage is normal.
*Check that all wiring connections are good.
*Check that the turn signal bulbs and indicator bulbs are o f the correct wattage.
*If all of the above check good, replace the relay.
(3)A single light on one side comes on and stays on:
*Either the light that does n o t come on i s burned out or of the incorrect wattage, or the wiring is broken or improperly connected.
(4)Neither light on one side comes on:
*Unless both lights for that side are burned out, the trouble i s with the turn signal switch.
(5)Flashing rate is too fast:
* I f this occurs on both the right dnd left sides, check that the battery is not being overcharged (indicating a defective regulator). I f the alternator and the battery voltage are normal, replace the turn signal relay.
*If this occurs on only one side, one or both of the turn signal bulbs are o f too high a wattage.
HORN
The horn construction i s shown in Fig. K61. When the horn button is pressed with the ignition switch on, the horn i s grounded to complete the horn circuit.
Current then flows through the horn contacts and horn coil, magnetizing the iron core. The magnetized iron core pulls on the armature and diaphragm assembly, the movement o f which pushes open the contacts, interrupting the current flow. Since the core now loses its magnetism, the armature and diaphragm assem- bly springs back to its original position, closing the contacts. This cycle repeats until the horn button i s
1. Diaphragm
2. Ringer Disc
3. Horn Terminal
4. Contacts
5. Coil
6. Insulator
7. Adjusitng Screw
8. Housing
The contacts wear down after long use, requiring adjustment from time to time. I f the horn itself i s determined to be at fault and adjustment fails t o correct the trouble, the contacts or some other component in the horn is defective. The horn cannot be disassembled and must be replaced i f defective.
Horn adjustment
The horn contacts wear down after long use and may need t o be adjusted from time to time. Turning in the adjusting screw compensates for contact wear.
I f satisfactory horn performance cannot be obtained by this adjustment when the rest of the electrical system i s functioning properly, the horn must be replaced. I t cannot be disassembled.
To avoid serious burn, never touch a hot engine or exhaust pipe during horn ad- justment.
Do not turn the adjusting screw in too far, since doing so will increase horn current with the possibility of burning out the horn coil.
236 MAINTENANCE-ELECTRICAL
@Disconnect the horn black lead; and connect an am- meter in series to the horn circuit. The (+) ammeter lead goes to the horn terminal and the lead to the black lead.
(-) ammeter
Horn Current Measurement
Ammeter rn
Horn Button w
-0
- e-rn
,12A DC
,
Black
Horn
Brown
(
1 -
7 n
1 1 9
Ignition
Fuse
I J
Switch
@Fully loosen the adjusting screw locknut.
@Turn on the ignition switch, and keep the horn button pressed while turning the horn adjusting screw. Adjust for the best horn sound while keeping the current between 2.0
-
3.0 amperes.
A. Horn Terminals
@ I f the reading is very close to zero, set the multimeter to the 20V DC range, and connect the meter to the leads that were disconnected from the horn. The (+) meter lead goes to the brown lead, and the (-) meter lead goes to the black lead. With the ignition switch on, press the horn button. The meter should register battery voltage. I f i t does not, the fuse, ignition switch, or the wiring is at fault.
A. Horn Adjusting Screw B. Black Lead
@Tighten the adjusting screw locknut.
NOTE: The horn will not sound properly if it i s mount- ed incorrectly or if any cable or other part is touching it.
Horn trouble
@Check that battery voltage i s normal.
C h e c k that the adjusting screw is turned in or out too far.
@Disconnect the leads t o the horn, and connect t o the horn terminals a multimeter set to the x 1 S2 range to check for continuity (close t o zero ohms). I f the reading i s several ohms or i f there is no reading at all, replace the horn.
A. Meter (+) Lead
B. Meter (-1 Lead
C. Brown Lead
D. Black Lead
@If the meter does show battery voltage, indicating that the horn trouble lies within the horn itself, and adjust- ment fails to correct the trouble, replace the horn.
NOTE: Do not loosen the armature mounting since doing so would alter the armature position such that the horn would probably have to be replaced.
SPEEDOMETER, TACHOMETER
The speedometer and tachometer are sealed units which cannot be disassembled. I f either fails to work satisfactorily, it must be replaced as a complete unit.
The speedometer and tachometer lights and the indicator lights are independent and can be removed for replacement if necessary.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE 237
Troubleshooting-Guide
Engine Doesn't Start, Starting Difficulty
Starter motor not rotating
Clutch lever n o t pulled
Starter lockout switch trouble
Starter motor trouble
Battery voltage l o w
Relay n o t contacting or operating
Starter button n o t contacting
Wiring open or shorted lgnition switch trouble
Engine stop switch trouble
Engine stop switch o f f
Fuse blown
Starter motor rotating but engine doesn't turn over
Starter motor clutch defective
Engine won't turn over
Valve seizure
Valve lifter seizure
Cylinder, piston seizure
Crankshaft seizure
Connecting rod small end seizure
Connecting rod big end seizure
Transmission gear or bearing seizure
Camshaft seizure
Secondary shaft bearing seizure
Primary chain broken
No fuel flow
N o fuel in tank
Sticking o f the valve i n the automatic fuel tap
Fuel tap vacuum hose clogged
Tank cap air vent obstructed
Fuel tap clogged
Fuel line clogged
Float valve clogged
Engine flooded
Fuel level too high
Float valve worn or stuck open
Starting technique faulty
(When flooded, push the starter b u t t o n with the throttle fully open t o allow more air t o reach the engine.)
No spark; spark weak
Battery voltage l o w lgnition switch n o t on
Engine stop switch turned o f f
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble
Spark plug cap n o t in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
Contact breaker points d i r t y or damaged
Contact breaker p o i n t gap maladjusted
Capacitor trouble
Ignition coil trouble lgnition or engine stop switch shorted
Wiring shorted or open
Compression low
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head n o t sufficiently tightened down
NO valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ringlland clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve n o t seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
Poor Running at Low Speed
Spark weak
Battery voltage l o w
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble
Spark plug cap shorted or n o t in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
Contact breaker points d i r t y or damaged
Contact breaker point gap maladjusted
Capacitor trouble lgnition coil trouble
Fuellair mixture incorrect
Air screw maladjusted
Pilot jet, o r air passage clogged
Pilot jet bleed holes clogged
Main jet clogged
Pilot passage clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed o r missing
Choke valve closed
Fuel level too high or too l o w
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Carburetor holder loose
Air cleaner duct loose
Compression low
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened d o w n
NO valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken o r sticking)
Piston ringlland clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve n o t seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
Other lgnition timing maladjusted
T i m i n g n o t advancing (spring broken or stretched)
Carburetors n o t synchronizing
Throttle valve doesn't slide smoothly
Engine oil viscosity too high
Brake dragging
Poor Running or No Power a t High Speed
Firing incorrect
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble
Spark plug cap shorted or n o t in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
Contact breaker points dirty or damaged
238
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
Contact breaker point gap maladjusted
Capacitor trouble lgnition coil trouble lgnition timing maladjusted and/or timing not ad- vancing
Contact breaker spring weak
Fuellair mixture incorrect
Choke valve closed
Main jet clogged or wrong size
Jet needle or needle jet worn
Air jet clogged
Fuel level too high or too low
Bleed holes of main jet bleed pipe or needle jet clogged
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner duct poorly sealed
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Carburetor holder loose
Air cleaner duct loose
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel tap clogged
Fuel line clogged
Compression low
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
NO valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/land clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn or carbon accumulation on the seating surface.)
Knocking lgnition timing maladjusted carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
Miscellaneous
Throttle valve won't fully open
Throttle valve don't slide smoothly lgnition timing maladjusted
Timing not advancing
Brake dragging
Clutch slipping
Overheating
Engine oil level too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Overheating
Firing incorrect
Spark plug dirty, damaged, or maladjusted
Spark plug incorrect lgnition timing maladjusted
Fuellair mixture incorrect
Main jet clogged or wrong size
Fuel level too low
Carburetor holder loose
Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing
Air cleaner duct poorly sealed
Air cleaner clogged
Compression high
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Engine load faulty
Clutch slipping
Engine oil level too high
Engine oil viscosity too high
Brake dragging
Lubrication inadequate
Engine oil level too low
Engine oil poor quality or incorrect
Clutch Operation Faulty
Clutch slipping
No clutch lever play
Friction plate worn or warped
Steel plate worn or warped
Clutch spring broken or weak
Clutch release maladjusted
Clutch cable maladjusted
Clutch inner cable catching
Clutch release mechanism trouble
Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn
Clutch not disengaging properly
Clutch lever play excessive
Clutch plate warped or too rough
Clutch spring tension uneven
Engine oil deteriorated
Engine oil viscosity too high
Engine oil level too high
Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft
Clutch release mechanism trouble
Loosen clutch hub nut
Gear Shifting Faulty
Doesn't go into gear; shift pedal doesn't return
Clutch not disengaging
Shift fork bent or seized
Gear stuck on the shaft
Shift drum positioning pin binding
Shift return spring weak or broken
Shift return spring pin loose
Shift mechanism arm spring broken
Shift mechanism arm broken
Shift pawl broken
Jumps out of gear
Shift fork worn
Gear groove worn
Gear dogs, dog holes, and/or dog recesses worn
Shift drum groove worn
Shift drum positioning pin spring weak or broken
Shift fork pin worn
Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn
Overshifts
Shift drum positioning pin spring weak or broken
Overshift limiter pawl broken
Shift mechanism arm spring broken
Abnormal Engine Noise
Knocking lgnition timing maladjusted
Carbon built up in combustion chamber
Fuel poor quality or incorrect
Spark plug incorrect
Overheating
Piston slap
Cylinder/piston clearance excessive
Cylinder, piston worn
Connecting rod bent
Piston pin, piston holes worn
Valve noise
Valve clearance incorrect
Valve spring broken or weak
Camshaft bearing worn
Valve lifter worn
Other noise
Connecting rod small end clearance excessive
Connecting rod big end clearance excessive
Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck
Piston seizure, damage
Cylinder head gasket leaking
Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection
Crankshaft runout excessive
Engine mounts loose
Crankshaft bearing worn
Primary chain worn
Camshaft chain tensioner trouble
Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn
Loose alternator rotor
Abnormal Drive Train Noise
Clutch noise
Weak or damaged shock rubber damper
Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive
Transmission noise
Bearing worn
Transmission gear worn or chipped
Metal chip jummed in gear teeth
Engine oil insufficient or too thin
Drive chain noise
Drive chain adjusted improperly
Chain worn
Rear, engine sprocket worn
Chain lubrication insufficient
Rear wheel misaligned
Abnormal Frame Noise
Front fork noise
Oil insufficient or too thin
Spring weak or broken
Rear shock absorber noise
Shock absorber trouble
Disc brake noise
Pad installed incorrectly
Pad surface glazed
Disc warped
Caliper defective
Cylinder damaged
Other noise
Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. n o t properly mounted or tightened
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
239
Exhaust Smokes Excessively
White smoke
Piston oil ring worn
Cylinder worn
Valve oil seal damaged
Valve guide worn
Engine oil level too high
Black smoke
Air cleaner clogged
Main jet too large or fallen o f f
Choke valve closed
Fuel level too high
Brown smoke
Main jet too small
Fuel level too low
Air cleaner duct loose
Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing
Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory
Handlebar hard to turn
Steering stem locknut too tight
Bearing ball damaged
Race dented or worn
Steering stem lubrication inadequate
Steering stem bent
Tire air pressure too low
Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates
Tire worn
Swing arm needle bearing worn
Rim warped, or not balanced
Front, rear axle runout excessive
Wheel bearing worn
Handlebar clamp loose
Steering stem head bolt and/or clamp b o l t loose
Handlebar pulls to one side
Frame bent
Wheel misalignment
Swing arm bent or twisted
Steering stem bent
Front fork bent
Rightlleft fork legs oil level uneven
Rightlleft rear shock absorbers unbalanced
Shock absorption unsatisfactory
Too hard:
Front fork oil excessive
Front fork oil viscosity too high
Tire air pressure too high
Rear shock absorber maladjusted
Front f o r k bent
Too soft:
Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking
Front fork oil viscosity too low
Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak
Rear shock absorber oil leaking
Brakes Don't Hold
Disc brake
Air in the brake line
Pad or disc worn
Brake fluid leak
240 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
Disc warped
Contaminated pad
Brake fluid deteriorated
Primary or secondary cup trouble
Master cylinder scratched inside
Oil Pressure Indicator Light Goes On
Engine oil pump defective
Engine oil pump screen clogged
Engine oil level too low
Engine oil viscosity too low
Camshaft bearings worn
Crankshaft bearings worn
Oil pressure switch trouble
Wiring defective
Relief valve stuck open
Battery Discharged
Battery faulty (e.g., plates sulphated, shorted through sedimentation, electrolyte level too low)
Battery leads making poor contact
Load excessive (e.g., bulb o f excessive wattage)
Regu lator/rectifier trouble
Ignition switch trouble
Alternator trouble
Wiring faulty
Battery Overcharged
Regu latorlrectifier trouble
Battery trouble
NOTE: This i s not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause for each problem listed. I t i s meant simply as a rough guide to assist the troubleshooting for some o f the more common difficulties. Electrical troubleshooting i s not covered here due t o i t s complex- ity. For electrical problems, refer t o the appropriate heading i n the Maintenance Section.
APPENDIX 241
Appendix
Table
of Contents
ADDITIONAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR RACING
Carburetor
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
Spark Plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
SPECIAL TOOLS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
244
WIRING DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
242 APPENDIX
A D D I T I O N A L CONSIDERATIONS
FOR R A C I N G
This motorcycle has been manufactured for use in a reasonable and prudent manner and as a vehicle only.
However, some may wish to subject this motorcycle to abnormal operation, such as would be experienced under racing conditions. KAWASAKI STRONGLY RECOM-
MENDS T H A T A L L RIDERS RIDE SAFELY A N D
OBEY A L L LAWS AND REGULATIONS CONCERN-
ING THE1 R MOTORCYCLE A N D ITS OPERATION.
Racing should be done under supcrviscd conditions, and recognized sanctioning bodies should be contacted for further details. For those who desire to participate in competitive racing or related use, the following technical information may prove useful. However, please notc the following important points.
*You are entirely responsible for the use o f your motor- cycle under abnormal conditions such ds racing, and
Kawasaki shall not be liable for any damages which might arise from such use.
*Kawasaki's Limited Motorcycle Warranty and Limited
Emission Control Systems Warranty specifically ex- clude motorcycles which are used i n competitive or related uses. Please read the warranty carefully.
*Motorcycle racing is a very sophisticated sport, subject to many variables. The following information is theoretical only, and Kawasaki shall not be liable for any damages which might arise from alterations utili- zing this information.
*When the motorcycle i s operated on public roads, i t must be in its original state in crder to ensure safety and compliance with applicable emissior! regulations.
Carburetor
Sometimes an alteration may be desirable for im- proved performance under special conditions when proper mixture is not obtained after the carburetor has been properly adjusted, and all parts cleaned and found to be functioning properly.
A certain amount of adjustment can be made by changing the position o f the needle. There are five grooves at the top o f the needle. Changing the position o f the clip to a groove closer to the bottom raises the needle, which makes the mixture richer at a given posi- tion o f the throttle valve.
Jet Needle
NOTE: The last digit o f the jet needle number ("2" of
4C91-2) i s not stamped on the needle, but i s the number o f the standard groove in which the clip is set.
The groove numbers are counted from the top o f the needle, 1 being the topmost groove, and 5 being the lowest groove.
Spark Plug
The spark plugs ignite the fuellair mixture in the combustion chamber. To do this effectively and at the proper time, the correct spark plugs must be used, and the spark plugs must be kept clean and adjusted.
Tests have shown the NGK D8EA or N D X24ES-U, set to a 0.6-0.7 m m gap to be the best plug for general use. But since spark plug requirements change with ignition and carburetion adjustments and with riding conditions, this plug may have to be replaced with one of the next higher. Whether or not a spark plug of a different heat range should be used i s generally deter- mined by removing and inspecting the plug.
When a plug o f the correct heat range i s being used, the electrodes will stay hot enough to keep all the carbon burned off, b u t cool enough to keep from dam- aging the engine and the plug itself. This temperature i s about 400 -800°C (750- 1 ,450°F) and can be judged by noting the condition and color o f the ceramic in- sulator around the center electrode. I f the ceramic is clean and o f a light brown color, the plug i s operating at the right temperature.
Spark Plug
1. ~ e r m 6 a l
2. Insulator
3. Cement
4. Gasket
5. Center Electrode
6. Side Electrode
Spark Plug Condition
APPENDIX
243 m
Carbon Fouling Oil Fouling
A spark plug for higher operating temperatures i s used for racing. Such a plug i s designed for better cooling efficiency so that i t will not overheat and thus is often called a "colder" plug. I f a spark plug with too high a heat range i s used - that is, a "cold" plug that cools itself too well
- the plug will stay too cool t o burn o f f the carbon, and the carbon will collect on the electrodes and the ceramic insulator. This carbon conducts electricity, and can short the center electrode t o ground by either coating the ceramic insulator or bridging across the gap. Such a short will prevent an effective spark. Carbon built-up on the plug can also cause other troubles. I t can heat up red-hot and cause preignition and knocking, which may eventually burn a hole in the top o f the piston.
T o inspect the spark plugs:
Remove each plug and inspect the ceramic insulator.
Whether or not the right temperature plug i s being used can be ascertained by noting the condition o f the ceram- ic insulator around the electrode. A light brown color indicates the correct plug i s being used. I f the ceramic i s white, the plug is operating at too high a temperature and i t should be replaced with the next colder type.
The heat range o f the spark plug functions like a thermostat for the engine. Using the wrong type of spark plug can make the engine run too hot (resulting in engine damage) or too cold (with poor performance, misfiring, and stalling). The standard plug has been selected to match the normal usage o f this motorcycle in combined street and highway riding. Unusual riding conditions may require a different spark plug heat range.
For racing, install the colder plug.
If the spark plugs are replaced with a new one, make certain the replacement plugs have the same thread pitch and reach (length of threaded portion) as the standard plugs.
Table MI Spark Plug Specifications
Required
Plug Threads
Diameter : 12.0 mm
Pitch : 1.25 mm
Reach : 19.0 mm
NGK D8EA
N D X24ES-U
Normal Operation Overheating
I f the plug reach i s too short, carbon will build up on the plug hole threads in the cylinder head, causing over- heating and making i t very difficult to insert the correct spark plug later.
I f the reach i s too long, carbon will build up on the exposed spark plug threads causing overheating, preig- nition, and possibly burning a hole in the piston top.
In addition, i t may be impossible to remove the plug without damaging the cylinder head.
Spark Plug Reach
Too short
D8HA
Correct reach
D8EA
Carbon builds up here
244 APPENDIX
SPECIAL TOOLS
REF. NO.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
PART NO.
57001 -1 15
57001 - 1 35
(or PIN 57001-158)
57001-136
57001-31 7
57001-1 37
57001-1 38
57001-139
57001-141
57001 -143
57001-144
57001-149
DESCRIPTION
PISTON RING PLIERS
BEARING PULLER
BEARING PULLER ADAPTER
BEARING PULLER ADAPTER
STEM BEARING DRIVER
STEM CUP DRIVER
BEARING DRIVER HOLDER
FRONT FORK O I L SEAL DRIVER
INSIDE CIRCLIP PLIERS
OUTSIDE CIRCLIP PLIERS
PISTON BASES
Q'TY
1
1
(-1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1 set
@
APPENDIX 245
REF. NO.
12
13
14
19
20
21
22
15
16
17
18
23
24
25
PART NO.
57001-183
57001-101 1
57001 -241
57001-1078
57001 -264
57001 -287
57001 -288
57001 -289
57001 -290
57001 -297
5700 1-305
57001 -308
57001-319
57001 -382
DESCRIPTION
FRONT FORK CYLINDER HOLDER HANDLE
FRONT FORK CYLINDER HOLDER ADAPTER
VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR ASS'Y
VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR ADAPTER
O I L SEAL GUIDE
BEARING DRIVER
BEARING DRIVER
BEARING DRIVER
BEARING DRIVER
BEARING DRIVER
CLUTCH HOLDER
ROTOR HOLDER
GEAR PULLER & PUSHER
DRIVER
Q'TY
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
246 APPENDIX
REF. NO.
30
3 1
32
33
26
27
2 8
29
34
35
36
37
PART NO.
57001-900
57001-910
57001 -91 3
57001-1021
57001-1024
57001
-
1063
57001-1079
57001 - 1094
57001-1095
57001 -1 096
57001- 1099
(or PIN 57001-254)
57001-1 100
DESCRIPTION
ENGINE STAND
PISTON PIN PULLER ASS'Y
PISTON PIN PULLER ADAPTER "A"
V A L V E GUIDE ARBOR
SPARK PLUG WRENCH
RIM PROTECTORS
V A L V E GUIDE REAMER
PISTON RlNG COMPRESSOR ASS'Y
PISTON RlNG COMPRESSOR GRIP
PISTON RlNG COMPRESSOR ADAPTER
ROTOR PULLER
STEM N U T WRENCH
Q'TY
1
1
(-1
1
1
(-1
(-1
1
1 set
1
4
@
APPENDIX 247
REF. NO.
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
PART NO.
57001 -1 25
57001 -403
57001 -1 27
57001 -22 1
57001-1018
57001 -980
57001 -983
57001-1017
DESCRIPTION
O I L PRESSURE GAUGE ASS'Y
O I L PRESSURE GAUGE ADAPTER
VACUUM GAUGE SET
COMPRESSION GAUGE
COMPRESSION GAUGE HOSE
ELECTROTESTER
HAND TESTER
FUEL LEVEL GAUGE
Q'TY
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
SUPPLEMENT 249
Supplement
This Supplement i s designed t o be used in conjunction with the front part of this Service Manual
(up to Pg. 248). The maintenance and repair procedures described in this Supplement are only those that are unique to later year units since the first publication of this Service Manual. Complete and proper servicing of later year units therefore requires mechanics to read both this Supplement and the front part of this Service Manual.
This Supplement is divided into few sections. Each section is annually added t o the preceding section, and explains procedures per one year unit that are unique to the latest year unit. Complete and proper servicing of later year units therefore requires mechanics to read ( 1 ) the section corre- sponding to the year unit they work at, (2) the previous section(s), and (3) the text in front of this
Service Manual.
NOTE: The maintenance and repair procedures for the variation models (KZ400-J, KZ550-A,
KZ550-B, KZ550-C, and KZ550-D) are included in this Supplement section. Unless otherwise noted, procedures for the variation models are the same as for the standard KZ500-B.
Table of Contents
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1 9 8 0 MODEL
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
250
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1 9 8 1 MODEL
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
309
250 SUPPLEMENT FOR
1980
MODEL
Supplement for 1980 Model
Table of Contents
[ALL]
MODEL IDENTIFICATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
252
SPECIFICATIONS
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE CHART
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
262
ADJUSTMENT
CARBURETORS (on US model)
FUEL SYSTEM
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
263
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
263
DRIVE CHAIN (with Rear Drum Brake)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
265
BRAKES (on Rear Drum Brake)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
266
GENERAL LUBRICATION (with Rear Drum Brake)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
267
DISASSEMBLY
TORQUE AND LOCKING AGENT
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
268
F U E L T A P
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
268
CARBURETORS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
268
MUFFLERS
VACUUM SWITCH VALVE (on US model)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
269
AIR SUCTION VALVE (on US model)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
270
CY LINDER HEAD COVER (on US model)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
270
CARBURETOR HOLDERS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
272
ENGINE REMOVAL
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
274
REAR WHEEL, REAR DRUM BRAKE
THROTTLE CABLES
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
278
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
283
MAINTENANCE
CARBURETOR
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
286
KAWASAKI CLEAN AIR SYSTEM (on US model)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
286
DRIVE CHAIN
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
292
SPROCKET
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
292
DRUM BRAKE
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
292
LIGHTING SYSTEM (on US, Canadian model)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
303
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
APPENDIX
ADDITIONAL CONS1 DERATIONS
FOR RACING (on US model)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
305
SPECIALTOOLS
WIRING DIAGRAMS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
305
[K24001
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS (on KZ400)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
254
ENGINE PERFORMANCE CURVES (on KZ400)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
258
RUNNING PERFORMANCE CURVES (on KZ400)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
260
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL 251
ADJUSTMENT
CARBURETORS (on KZ400)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
263
DISASSEMBLY
CAMSHAFTS (on KZ400)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
271
CAMSHAFT SPROCKETS (on KZ400)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
271
PISTON RINGS (on KZ400)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
272
ENGINE SPROCKET (on KZ400)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
272
DRIVE CHAIN (on KZ400)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
285
IGNITION SYSTEM (on KZ400)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
302
SERVICE DATA FOR KZ400
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
304
[KZ5501
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS (on KZ550)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
256
ENGINE PERFORMANCE CURVES (on KZ550)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
259
RUNNING PERFORMANCE CURVES (on KZ550)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
261
DISASSEMBLY
STARTER MOTOR (on KZ550)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
272
MAINTENANCE
ELECTRIC STARTER SYSTEM (on KZ550)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
302
SERVICE DATA FOR KZ550
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . .
304
[ KZ550-C]
ADJUSTMENT
IGNITION TIMING (on KZ550-C)
FRONT FORK (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
263
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
264
REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS (on KZ550-C)..
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
264
FRONT AND REAR SUSPENSION SETTING (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . .
265
DISASSEMBLY
PICK-UP COl L ASSEMBLY (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
273
TIMING ADVANCER (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
274
FRONT WHEEL (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
275
FORNT DISC BRAKE (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
276
TUBE LESS TI RES (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
281
HANDLEBAR (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
283
FRONT FORK (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
283
SWING ARM (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
285
MAINTENANCE
WHEEL (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
288
DISC B RAKE (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
294
FRONT FORK (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
294
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
296
IGNITION SYSTEM (on KZ550-C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
297
252 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
Model ldentif ication
KZ400-J1 (Right Side View)
Front disc and rear drum brake
KZ400-J1 (Left Side View)
KZ550-A1
Front disc and rear drum brake
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L 253
KZ550-C 1
Front disc and rear drum brake
Pneumatic front fork and damping adjustable rear shock absorbers
Tubeless tires
Transistorized ignition system
Stepped seat and pullback handlebar
254 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
Specifications
SPEC1 FlCATlONS (on KZ400)
Dimensions
Overall length
Overall width
Overall height
Wheelbase
Road clearance
Dry weight
Fuel tank capacity
Performance
Climbing ability
Braking distance
Minimum turning radius
Engine
T Y pe
Bore and stroke
Displacement
Compression ratio
Maximum horsepower
Maximum torque
Valve timing
Inlet Open
Close
Exhaust
Duration
Open
Close
Duration
Carburetors
Lubrication system
Engine oil TY pe
Capacity
Starting system
Ignition system
Cylinder numbering method
Firing order lgnition timing
Spark plugs
Transmission
T Y pe
Clutch
Gear ratio
2nd
3rd
4th
30"
11 .O m from 50 kph
2.4 m
DOHC, 4-cylinder, 4-stroke, air-cooled
52.0 x 47.0 mm
399 cc
9.5
43 HP 89,500 rprn
3.5 kg-m 67,500 rprn
@
27 HP 87,500 rprn
@
2.8 kg-m 86,500 rprn
33" BTDC
41" ABDC
254"
51" BBDC
23" ATDC
254"
TK K21P-2A
@
T K K21 P-2B
Forced lubrication (wet sump)
SE class SAE 10W40, 1 OW50,2OW4O, or 20W50
3.0 a
Electric starter
Battery and coil (contact breaker)
Left to right, 1-2-3-4
1-2-4-3
15" BTDC 81,200 rprn
-
35" BTDC 83,200 rprn
NGK D8EA or ND X24ES-U
6-speed, constant mesh, return shift
Wet multi disc
2.57 (36114)
1.78 (32118)
1.38 (29121)
1.13 (27124)
SUPPLEMENT
FOR 1980 MODEL 255
Primary reduction ratio
Final reduction ratio
Overall drive ratio
5th
6th
Electrical Equipment
Maximum alternator output
Battery
Headlight
Bulb
TailIBrake light
City light
Turn signal lights
Meter lights l ndicator lights
Horn
0.96 (25126)
0.85 (23127)
3.28 (27123 x 67/24)
2.50 (40116)
6.98 @Top gear
21 0 W @ I 0,000 rpm
Furukawa FB12A-A (12V 12AH)
Semi-sealed
12v 45140w
12v 5121W
12V 4W
1 2 v 21W
1 2 v 3.4W
1 2 v 3.4W
12V 2.5A
Frame
Steering angle
Castor
Trail
Tire
Suspension
Front
Rear
Front
Rear
Tubular, double cradle
39" to either side
26"
98 mm
3.25H-19 4PR
3.75H- 18 4P R
Telescopic fork
Swing arm
Suspension stroke Front
Rear
Front fork oil
180 mm
120 mm
SAE 5W20
Capacity (per each fork) 220 cc
Brakes
TY pe Front
Rear
Effective disc diameter
Brake drum inside diameter and width
Single disc brake
@@
Dual disc brakes
Drum brake
250 mm
180 x 40 mm
@@
232 mm
@
: UK model
@
: West German model
Specifications subject to change without notice, and may not apply t o every country.
256 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L
SPECIFICATIONS (on KZ550)
Dimensions
Overall length
Overall width
Overall height
Wheelbase
Road clearance
Dry weight
Fuel tank capacity
Performance
Climbing ability
Braking distance
Minimum turning radius
Engine
Bore and stroke
Displacement
Compression ratio
Maximum horsepower
Maximum torque
Valve timing l n let
Exhaust
Open
Close
Duration
Open
Close
Duration
Carburetors
Lubrication system
Engine oil
Starting system
Ignition system
Capacity
Cvlinder numbering method
Firing order lgnition timing
Spark plugs
Transmission
TY pe
Clutch
2,100 mm, 0 2 , 1 5 0 mm
785 mm, @740 mm
1,125 mm, @ 1,095 mm
1,395 mm
145 mm
I 8 9 kg, @ 192 kg
15.0 Q
2,160 mm, 0 2 , 1 9 0 mm
850 mm, @8O5 mm
1,200 mm, @
1,420 mm
*
192 kg, @ 198 kg
12.4 V
3 0"
1 I
2.4 m
DOHC, 4-cy linder, 4-stroke, air-cooled
58.0 x 52.4 mm
553 cc
9.5
54 HP @8,500 rprn
4.9 kg-m 07,000 rprn
-4.8 kg-m @7,000 rprn
*
54 HP @8,500 rprn
@53 HP @8,500 rprn
4.9 kg-m 07,000 rprn a 4 . 8 kg-m @7,000 rprn w 4 . 7 kg-m 07,000 rprn
20" BTDC
48" ABDC
248"
48" BBDC
20" ATDC
248"
TK22P-2D
@ T K ~ ~ P - 2 ~
Forced lubrication (wet sump)
SE class SAE 10W40, 10W50,
20W40, or 20W50
3.0 a
Electric starter
Battery and coil
(contact breaker)
Left t o right, 1-2-3-4
1-2-4-3
10" BTDC 01,050 rprn
-
35" BTDC 03,200 rprn
NGK D8EA or ND X24ES-U
6-speed, constant mesh, return shift
Wet, multi disc
*
*
*
X
Battery and coil
(transistorized ignition)
X
X
Gear ratio: 1 s t
2nd
3 rd
4th
5th
6th
Primary reduction ratio
Final reduction ratio
Overall drive ratio
Electrical Equipment
Maximum alternator output
Battery
Headlight T Y pe
Bulb
TailIBrake light
City light
Turn signal lights
Meter lights l ndicator lights
Horn
Frame
T Y pe
Steering angle
Castor
Trail
Tire
Suspension
Front
Rear
Front
Rear
Wheel travel Front
Rear
Front fork oil T Y pe
Capacity (per each fork)
Brakes
Type Front
Rear
Effective disc diameter
Brake drum inside diameter and width
K 2550-A 1
2.57 (36114)
1.78 (32118)
1.38 (29121)
1.13 (27124)
0.96 (25126)
0.85 (23127)
2.94 (27123 x 65/26)
2.50 (40116)
6.25 @top gear
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L 257
KZ550-C1
*
*
*
*
*
X
*
2.38 (38116)
5.94 @top gear
Sealed beam,
em i-sealed
1 2 v 50/35w, @ 1 2 v 45140w
12V 8/27W, @ 1 2 ~
12V 4W
1 2 v 3.4W
1 2 v 3.4W
12V 2.5A
Tubular, double cradle
37" t o either side
26"
98 mm
3.25H- 19 4PR
3.75H-18 4PR
Telescopic fork
Swing arm
180 mm
120 mm
SAE 5W20
220 cc
Single disc brake
@ Dual disc brakes
Drum brake
250 mm,
@
232 mm
180 x 40 mm
*
39" to either side
27.5"
110 mm
3.25s-19 4PR Tubeless
130/9O-l6 67s Tubeless
Telescopic fork (pneumatic)
*
*
*
*
290 cc
*
236 mm,
@
226 mm
@ : European model @: US model @ West German model
Specifications subject to change without notice, and may not apply t o every country.
258 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L
E N G I N E PERFORMANCE C U R V E S (on K Z 4 0 0 )
KZ400-J1 (except West German model)
Crankshaft rpm
Fuel Consumption i
ENGINE PERFORMANCE CURVES (on KZ550)
KZ550-A1, C1 (US and Canadian models)
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL 259
- : Torque L
--4
O
- i
4 0
1
2.000
1
I
I
I
I
4,000
I
I
I
6,000
Crankshaft rpm
~
8,000 9.000
KZ550-A1, C1 (European model except West German model)
Crankshaft rpm
260 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
R U N N I N G PERFORMANCE CURVES (on KZ400)
KZ400-J1 (except West German model)
0 4 0 80 120
Vehicle Speed k p h
160 200
RUNNING PERFORMANCE CURVES
(on
KZ550)
SUPPLEMENT FOR
1980
M O D E L 261
KZ550-C1 (except West German model)
Vehicle Speed kph
V e h c l e Speed kph
262 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
PERIOD lC MAINTENANCE CHART
The maintenance and adjustments must be done in accordance with this chart to keep the motor- cycle in good running condition. The initial maintenance i s vitally important and must not be
neglected.
FREQUENCY
OPERATION
Drive chain
Drive chain
- lubricate
- adjust
Every 300 km
Every 800 km
"For higher odometer readings, repeat a t the frequency interval established here. i Replace, add or adjust if necessary.
197
28
,
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L
263
Adjustment
IGNITION T I M I N G (on KZ550-C)
KZ550-C has a magnetically controlled transistor ignition system which has no moving parts in the elec- trical circuit. Consequently, i t i s not necessary to check and adjust the ignition timing periodically. However, i f there i s any doubt as t o correct ignition timing, inspect the ignition system as explained in the maintenance section (Pg. 297).
NOTE: Lubricate the timing advancer periodically just the same way as KZSOO-B (Pg. 224).
CARBURETORS (on KZ400)
The procedures are the same as those for the 1979
KZSOGB with the following exception. See Pgs. 1 9 -
21.
@The idle speed for KZ400 i s 1 ,150- 1,250 rpm.
CARBURETORS (on US Model)
Since the air screws o f the carburetors on US model are sealed with the bonding plugs, the carburetors do not require the idle mixture adjustment.
Adjust the idling as follows:
Idling Adjustment:
@Start the engine, and warm i t up thoroughly.
@Adjust the idle speed to 1,000- 1 ,I the idle adjusting screw.
Engine Oil (Pg. 19)
Spark Plugs (Pg. 12)
Throttle Cables (Pg. 15)
Cylinder Compression (Pg. 174)
Air Cleaner Element (Pg. 154)
Valve Clearance (Pg. 13)
Ignition Timing (Pg. 12)
Kawasaki Clean Air System (Pg. 286)
Air Cleaner Duct and Carburetor Holder Leakage
Fine Synchronization-Vacuum
Since the motorcycle for US has the air injection system, the vacuum gauge attachments are connected to the vacuum switch valve with the vacuum hoses.
Refer to Pgs. 21
-
22, noting the follows:
1. For US model, slide up the hose clamps (2), and pull the vacuum hoses o f f the attachments to connect the vacuum gauge to the #I and #4 carburetor holders.
A. Vacuum Hose B. Clamp
2. After the carburetors properly synchronized, connect the vacuum hoses (2) to the #1 and #4 carburetor holders, and slide back the hose clamps (2).
A. Idle Adjusting Screw
@Open and close the throttle a few times t o make sure that the idle speed does not change. Readjust i f neces- sary.
NOTE: With the engine idling, turn the handlebar to either side. I f handlebar movement changes idle speed, the throttle cables may be improperly adjusted or in- correctly routed, or they may be damaged.
(1 Operation with improperly adjusted, in- correctly routed, or damaged cables could result in an unsafe riding condition.
NOTE: I f proper idle speed cannot be obtained by this adjustment, first check the following and correct as necessary.
FUEL SYSTEM
The fuel tap has no drain plug. Refer t o the follows when cleaning the fuel system:
1. Clean the fuel system in a well venti-
I there are no sparks or flame anywhere near the work- ing area.
2. Never clean out the fuel system when the engine is still warm.
3. Wipe any fuel off the engine before starting it.
To clean the fuel system:
@Run the overflow tubes t o a container.
@Turn the fuel tap lever to the "PRI" position.
264 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
.Loosen the carburetor drain screws, and drain the fuel i n the fuel and fuel tank through the overflow tubes.
Tighten the drain screws.
* I f any d i r t comes out, clean the following parts in ac- cordance t o the procedure in the Maintenance Section.
OFuel Tank (Pg. 155)
OFuel Tap (Pg. 155)
Karburetors (Pg. 1 62)
Table N1 Air Pressure
1
Standard
0.6 kalcm2
I
Usable Range
1
0.5
-
0.7 kg/cm2
FRONT FORK (on KZ550-C)
The front fork on KZ550-C can be adjusted t o any air pressure within the usable range t o suit various riding and load conditions. They can be adjusted t o lower air pressure for cruising on smooth roads, but should be adjusted to higher pressure for high speed riding, or riding on bad roads. Before making any adjustments, however, read the procedures in this chapter.
To check the front fork air pressure:
.Put the motorcycle up on i t s center stand.
.Raise the front wheel o f f the ground by using a jack under the engine. All weight must be o f f the front wheel.
.Remove the rubber cover and air valve cap, and check the air pressure with the air pressure gauge (special tool).
1. Try t o set the air pressure of the right and left fork legs as equally as possi- ble. The difference in air pressure between the right and left fork legs must be within 0.1 kg/cm2 (1.4 psi).
2. Inject air little by little so that air pressure does not rise rapidly. Air pressure exceeding 2.5 kg/cm2
(36 psi) may damage the oil seals.
1. Be sure to adjust the air pressure v) adjusted too low or too high adversely affect handling and stability and could lead to accident and injury.
2. Only air or nitrogen gas can be used. Never inject oxygen or any other kind of gas. Other gases could procedure an explosion.
3. Do not incinerate the front fork.
REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS (on KZ550-C)
The rear shock absorbers o n KZ550-C can be adjusted by changing not only the spring force but also the damping force t o suit various riding and loading condi- tions. The spring force and damping force can be left soft for average riding. But they should be adjusted harder for high speed riding, or riding with a passenger.
Before making any adjustments, read the following procedures:
Spring Adjustment
The spring adjusting sleeve on each rear shock ab- sorber has 5 positions so that the spring can be adjusted for different road and loading conditions.
A. Air Pressure Gauge (57001-1003) B. Air Valve
NOTES: 1. Check the air pressure when the fork legs are cold.
2. Do n o t use tire gauges for checking air pressure.
They may not indicate the correct air pressure be- cause o f air leaks that occur when the gauge i s applied t o the valve.
To adjust the front fork air pressure:
.Inject air through the valve with a pump to adjust the pressure, but do n o t exceed 2.5 kg/cm2 (36 psi).
NOTES: 1. A normal tire pump can be used.
2. Adjust the air pressure to suit various riding condi- tions referring to the Front and Rear Suspension
Setting (Pg. 265).
A. Spring Adjusting Sleeve B. Hook Spanner
I f the spring action feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in accordance with the following table:
Table N2 Spring Action
Position
1 1 2
Stronger
1 3 1 4 1 5
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L
-
Spring Action
*Turn the adjuster t o the desired number until you feel a click.
C h e c k t o see that both adjusters are turned t o the same relative position.
If both damper adjusters are not adjusted
265
To adjust the spring force:
.Tl;rn the adjusting sleeve on each shock absorber t o the desired position with a hook spanner.
C h e c k to see that both adjusting sleeves are turned to the same relative position.
If both spring adjusting sleeves are not adjusted equally, handling may be im- paired and a hazardous condition may result.
NOTE: Match the spring adjusting sleeve position with the damper adjuster position referring to the Front and
Rear Suspension Setting. equally, handling may be impaired and a hazardous condition may result.
NOTE: Match the damper adjuster position with the spring adjusting sleeve position referring to the Front and Rear Suspension Setting.
Damper Adjustment
The damper adjuster on each rear shock absorber has
4 positions so that the damping force can be adjusted for different road and loading conditions. The numbers on the adjuster show the setting position o f the damper.
FRONT A N D REAR SUSPENSION SETTING
(on KZ550-C)
The table N4 shows an example o f setting for the front and rear suspension. To obtain the stablehandling or suitable riding condition, adjust the air pressure, spring force, or damping force for different road and loading conditions i f necessary. For instance, setting
A shown in the table i s softest and designed for an average-built rider o f 68 kg (1 50 Ibs) with n o accessories.
Ordinarily, the heavier the total load becomes, the harder the suspension should be set.
A. Damper Adjuster
If the damper setting feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in accordance with the following table:
Table N3 Damping Force
Position
Damping Force
1 1 2 1 3 1 4
Larger A
D R I V E C H A I N (with Rear Drum Brake)
Refer to Pgs. 28-29, noting the followings:
1. Before adjusting the drive chain, remove the safety clip, and loosen the nut at the rear end o f the torque link.
Table N4 Front and Rear Suspension Setting (Example)
Setting
Soft
$
Hard
A
B
C
Rear Shock Absorber
Spring Force
(Sleeve Position)
1
2, 3, or 4
5
Damping Force
(Adjuster Position)
1 o r 2
3 o r 4
4
Front Fork
Air Pressure kg/cm2 (psi)
0.5 (7.1)
0.7
5
(1 0.0)
266 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
I f you don't loosen the torque link nut, it may lead t o brake panel fracture when the chain adjusters are set.
A. Torque Link Nut
2. Before tightening the rear axle nut, center the brake panel assembly in the brake drum. This i s done by tightening the axle lightly, spinning the wheel, and depressing the brake pedal forcefully. The partially tightened axle allows the brake panel assembly t o center itself within the brake drum.
NOTE: This procedure can prevent a soft, or "spongy feeling" brake.
A. Wear Indicator B. USABLE RANGE
Brake Pedal Position
*When the brake pedal is in its rest position, i t should be 0
-
30 mm lower than the top o f the footpeg. I f it is too high, turn out the adjusting nut at the end o f the brake rod t o give the brake pedal plenty of play.
I f i t is too low, go t o the next step.
BRAKES (on Rear Drum Brake)
Adjust the rear drum brake as follows:
Rear Brake
Brake lining and drum wear causes the rear brake to go out o f adjustment, increasing pedal play and de- creasing brake effectiveness. Refer brake adjustment t o compensate for this actually consists o f three suc- cessive adjustments: brake pedal position, cam lever angle, and brake pedal travel.
I f brake drag is detected during brake adjustment, disassemble the brake (Pg. 278), and inspect for wear or damage (Pg. 292). Also, i f the brake pedal does not return t o its rest position quickly upon release, inspect the brake for wear or damage. I f the brake has a soft, or "spongy feeling", make sure the brake panel is proper- ly centered. See the second "NOTE" in drive chain adjustment procedure.
On the outside o f the rear brake panel there is a brake lining wear indicator. Whenever the indicator has gone past USABLE RANGE, the brake shoes must be imme- diately replace and the other brake parts examined.
Adiustment alone cannot compensate for the wear o f a bkake worn past USABLE RANGE.
A. Adjusting Nut
B. 0 - 3 0 mm
C. Adjusting Bolt
D. Locknut
*Loosen the brake pedal adjusting bolt locknut, turn the adjusting bolt t o obtain the correct pedal position, and tighten the locknut.
*Check the brake pedal travel.
*Check the rear brake light switch operation.
Cam Lever Angle
@When the brake is fully applied, the brake cam lever should come to an 80-90" angle with the brake rod.
A. 80
-
90"
@ I f it does not, remove the cam lever, and then remount i t at a new position on the shaft for the proper angle.
Since a cam lever angle greater than 90'
LWARNINGh reduces braking effectiveness, this adjust- ment should not be neglected. When remounting the cam, be sure that the position of the indicator on the serrated shaft is not altered. See Pg. 279 for detailed information on the position of the wear indicator when the cam lever is not on the shaft. A change in cam lever angle is caused by wear of internal brake parts. When- ever the cam lever angle i s adjusted, also check for drag and proper pedal operation, taking particular note of the brake lining wear indicator position. I n case of doubt as to braking effectiveness, disassemble and inspect all internal brake parts. Worn parts could cause the brake t o lock or fail.
*Rotate the rear wheel to check for brake drag.
@Operate the pedal a few times to see that i t returns to its rest position immediately upon release.
*Adjust the brake pedal travel.
Brake Pedal Travel
*Check to see that the brake pedal has 20-30 mm o f travel from the rest position to the fully applied posi- tion when the brake pedal i s pushed down lightly by hand.
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL 267
Brake Rod Joint
C. Brake Pedal A.
B. 20
-
30 mm
*If it does not, turn the adjusting n u t on the end o f the brake rod so that the brake pedal has the proper travel.
@Rotate the rear wheel t o check for brake drag.
@Operate the pedal a few times t o see that it returns t o i t s rest position immediately upon release.
@Check the rear brake light switch operation.
GENERAL LUBRICATION
(with Rear Drum Brake)
Lubricate the following portion besides the portions shown on Pgs. 33
-
35.
268
SUPPLEMENT FOR
1980
MODEL
Disassembly
TORQUE AND LOCKING AGENT
The table below shows the tightening torque for the parts which are added t o the previous model.
Tighten the other parts t o the torque listed on Pgs. 39- 43.
Part
[Engine]
Air suction valve cover bolts
$6 P l .O (on US model)
Starter motor terminal nut
$6 P l .O (on KZ550)
[Chassis]
Front fork air valves $ 8 P I .O
(on pneumatic front fork)
Tire air valve nuts $ 8 P0.8
(on tubeless tire)
[Brake]
Caliper holder shaft bolts
$8 P1.25 (on KZ550C)
Quantity
Metric
( k g m )
English
(f t- bs)
87 i n-l bs
95 in-lbs
104 in-l bs
13 in-l bs
13.0
Locking
Agent
(el
Required
See Pg.
FUEL TAP
Disassembly and Assembly Notes:
Refer t o Pgs. 48-49, noting the following:
1. The 0 i s fitted o n the fuel tap lever.
2. I f the diaphragm assembly was disassembled, assem- ble the diaphragm and its plate as shown.
Diaphragm Installation
*To install the accelerator throttle cable without sharp bends, run it between the frame top tube and the main harness.
1. Plate 2. Diaphragm Assembly
CARBURETORS
Carburetor Removal and Installation:
Refer t o Pgs. 49- 50, noting the following:
A. Accelerator Cable B. Main Harness
Carburetor Body Disassembly and Assembly
(on US model):
Refer t o Pgs. 5 5 - 56, noting the following:
The plug is added over each air screw. Refer t o the follows when handling the air screw parts t o clean the carburetor body.
To remove the air screw:
*Using an awl or some other suitable tools, punch and pry o f f the air screw plug.
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL 269
exhaust pipe on KZ400 and KZ550. The marks for
KZ400 and KZ550 are shown in the following table.
Table N5 ldentification Marks
I
Model
Identification Mark
#2 exhaust pipe
1
#3 exhaust pipe
VACUUM SWITCH VALVE (on US Model)
Removal :
@Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
*Slide the clamp out of place, and pull the hose off each air suction valve cover. A. Air Screw Plugs
@Turn in the air screw and count the number o t turns until i t seats fully but n o t tightly, and then remove i t with its 0
To install the air screw:
@Turn in the air screw fully but not tightly, and then back i t out the same number o f turns counted during disassembly.
*Replace the air screw plug with a new one, f i t it into the air screw hole, and then apply a small amount o f a bonding agent to the circumference o f the plug to f i x it.
Do not apply too much bonding agent onto the plug. This may fix up the air screw or close the air passage.
Air Screw Plug Installation m l n
A. Clamp
B. Air Suction Valve Cover
C. Vacuum Switch Valve
@Pull the hose o f f the air cleaner housing.
@Slide the clamp out o f place, and pull the vacuum hose o f f #1 and #4 carburetor holders.
1. Apply a bonding agent.
2. Pilot Screw Plug
3. Pilot Screw
4. Carburetor Body
MUFFLERS
Refer to Pgs. 56
-
57, noting the following:
There is also an identification mark on the inner A. Vacuum Hose B. Clamp
270
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L
.Pull the vacuum switch valve with the hoses attached free o f f the motorcycle.
Installation Note:
.Check that all hoses f i t in place, and that all clamps are installed.
C Y L I N D E R H E A D COVER (on US Model)
Removal :
.Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
.Remove the ignition coils (Pg. 57).
.Slide up the hose clamps (2), and pull the hoses (2) o f f the air suction valve covers.
A I R SUCTION V A L V E (on U S Model)
Removal (either side).
.Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
.Remove the air suction valve cover bolts, and l i f t the cover o f f the air suction valve assembly.
.Remove the valve assembly taking care n o t t o damage the valve reeds and reed contact areas. If the valve assembly sticks in the cylinder head cover, pull i t up by grasping the projection with pliers.
A. Cylinder Head Cover
B. Vacuum Switch Valve
C. Air Suction Valve Cover
.Swing the vacuum switch valve aside so that i t does n o t hinder cylinder head cover removal.
.Remove the cylinder head cover bolts and air suction valve cover bolts (24), and remove the cylinder head cover.
Installation Notes:
1. Replace the cylinder head cover gasket with a new one, applying a liquid gasket to the upper surface o f each rubber plug before installation.
A. Valve Assembly
B. Valve Reeds
C. Projection
lnstallation Notes (either side):
1 . Check the air suction valve assembly, and replace it with a new one i f i t is damaged (Pg. 287).
2. Tighten the cover bolts (4) t o 1 .O kg-m (87 in-lbs) o f torque with a flat washer installed under each bolt head.
A. Apply a liquid gasket. B. Rubber Plug
2. Tighten the cylinder head cover bolts and air suction valve cover bolts (24) to 1.0 kg-m (87 in-lbs) o f torque.
3. Check t o see that the vacuum switch valve i s connect- ed firmly t o the air cleaner housing, air suction valves,
and the #1 and #4 carburetor holders. Each hose end should be secured by a hose clamp.
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
271
CAMSHAFT SPROCKETS
(on
KZ400)
Refer t o Pg. 61, noting the following:
*For KZ400, set the sprocket on the camshaft, aligning the bolt holes. Use the two of the sprocket b o l t holes for installation as shown. The inlet sprocket has six bolt holes, and the exhaust sprocket has four bolt holes.
N O T E : For KZ550, the camshaft sprockets are the same as the sprockets o f KZ500.
Camshaft Sprocket Installation (KZ400)
4. Thoroughly warm up the engine, allow i t to cool completely, and then retighten all the cylinder head cover bolts and air suction valve cover bolts to the specified torque.
CAMSHAFTS
(on
KZ400)
Refer to Pgs. 57- 60, noting the following:
.To timing the camshaft chain for KZ400, use the
Z4/IN mark on the inlet camshaft sprocket.
N O T E : For KZ550, use the ZS/IN mark on the inlet sprocket. This i s the same as KZ500.
Camshaft Chain Timing (on K Z 4 0 0 )
1. Bolt Hole for Inlet Camshaft
2. Bolt Hole for Exhaust Camshaft
1. " Z 4 / I N H Mark
2. Inlet Camshaft Sprocket
3. Camshaft Chain
4. Cylinder Head Upper Surface
5. Exhaust Camshaft
6. " E X " Mark
272 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
PISTON RINGS (on KZ400)
The pistons on KZ400 use the one-piece type piston oil rings instead of the separate type piston oil rings.
Refer to the follows when installing the oil rings:
.Install the oil ring so that the correct side (marked
" T " ) faces up.
.Turn the rings so that the opening in the top ring and oil ring o f each piston faces forward and the opening in the second ring faces the rear.
Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the mount- ing screw threads.
Fit the rubber caps onto the carburetor holder attach- ments. For US model, f i t the rubber caps (2) onto the 4 2 and #3 carburetor holder attachments, and connect the vacuum hoses t o the #I and #4 carbure- tor holder attachments.
Piston Rings (KZ400)
T o p R i n g
S e c o n d R l n g
C@9
CARBURETOR HOLDERS
Removal
:
.Remove the fuel tank (Pg. 47).
.Remove the carburetors (Pg. 49).
.Pull the vacuum hoses o f f the attachments (on US model).
.Remove the screws ( 8 ) ) and remove the carburetor holders from the cylinder head.
Installation Notes:
1 . For US model, install the #1 and # 4 carburetor holders so that the vacuum hose attachments point upward and to the inside, and install the k 2 and +3 carburetor holders so that the attachments point downward and t o the outside.
ENGINE SPROCKET (on KZ400)
The drive chain for K Z 4 0 0 i s not an "endless" type.
Refer .to the follows when removing and installing the engine sprocket:
Removal :
.Stand the motorcycle up on its center stand.
.Check that the transmission is in neutral.
.Remove the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
.Remove the engine sprocket holding plate bolts (2), and remove the plate.
.Remove the clip from the chain master link using pliers, and remove the master link.
@Remove the engine sprocket, and free i t from the drive chain.
Installation Notes:
1 . Mount the engine sprocket while meshed with the drive chain, and install the drive chain master link and clip. The direction o f the master link clip must be as shown.
Incorrect installation of the master link clip can allow it t o catch on an adjacent part. I f the clip dislodges, the chain could come apart, and this could result i n rear wheel lockup and loss of control.
Master Link Clip Installation
Direction o f Chain Rotation
+
Clip
7
2. Tighten the holding plate bolts (2) to 1.0 kg-m (87 in-l bs) o f torque.
A. #I Carburetor Holder B. #2 Carburetor Holder
STARTER MOTOR (on KZ550)
Disassembly and Assembly Notes:
Refer to Pgs. 7 4 - 75, noting the following:
1 . The starter motor on KZ550 has the permanent magnets inside the yoke instead of the field coils.
Starter Motor ( K Z 5 5 0 )
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L 273
23
.-"
1. End Cover
2.
3. Shims
22. NU^
23. Rubber Cover
24. Screw
25. Lockwasher
2. There i s four carbon brushes on the motor for
KZ550, and they are connected t o the motor termi- nal the leads.
3. When installing the brush assembly t o the yoke, tighten the terminal nut t o 1 . I kg-m (95 in-lbs) of torque without the terminal bolt turning.
PICK-UP COl L ASSEMBLY (on KZ550-C)
Removal
:
.Remove the pick-up coil cover and gasket.
A. Pick-up Coil Cover
274 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
*Pull off the right side cover, disconnect the 4-pin connector that joins the pick-up coil leads to the IC igniter, and slide the leads free from the clamps beneath the engine.
(2)
A. "TEC" Mark B. Timing Rotor
A. Pick-up Coil Lead
B. 4-pin Connector
C. Clamps
*Remove the pick-up coil assembly mounting screws (3), and remove the pick-up coil assembly. Each screw has a lockwasher and flat washer.
ENGINE REMOVAL
For US model, the model with the rear drum brake,
KZ400, refer to Pgs. 92-96, noting the following:
For US model, remove the vacuum switch valve (Pg.
269).
For the motorcycle with the rear drum brake, give the drive chain plenty o f play, and hold down the rear brake pedal out o f the way according to the following:
*Back the rear brake adjusting nut o f f to the end o f the brake rod t o give the pedal play.
A. Mounting Screws B. Pick-up Coil Assembly
Installation Note:
* F i t the lead grommet into the notch in the right engine cover.
A. Adjusting Nut
TIMING ADVANCER (on KZ550-C)
Refer t o Pg. 77, noting the following:
*Install the timing rotor, aligning the projection on the rotor with the "TECH mark on the advancer body.
C. Rear Torque Link Nut
*Loosen the brake pedal adjusting bolt locknut, and back out the adjusting bolt until the pedal i s held down out o f the way.
*Remove the safety clip from the rear torque link nut, and remove the cotter pin from the rear axle nut.
*Loosen the rear torque link nut, axle nut, and chain adjusting bolt locknuts, and then turn out the chain adjusting bolts in order to give the chain plenty o f play. Kick the wheel forward until the chain is slack.
A. Chain Adjusting Bolt
B. Locknut
Front Wheel (KZ550-C)
C. Axle Nut
D. Cotter Pin
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL 275
3. For KZ400, remove the clip from the drive c h i n master link to free the drive chdin from the engine sprocket.
FRONT WHEEL (on KZ550-C)
Speedometer Gear Housing Disassembly and
Assembly Notes:
Refer to Pgs. 116-1 17, adding the following:
1. To remove the speedometer gear 14 , pull out the grease seal 15 using a hook, and pull o u t the speed-
-
2. Replace the grease seal with a new one. Apply a little driver so that the face o f the sealis ievel with the sur- face o t the housing.
3 . Regrease the speedometer gear.
1. Bearing
2. Circlip
3. Grease Seal
4. Collar
5. Axle
6. Circlip
7. Speedometer Gear
Driver
8. Distance Collar
9. Disc Mounting
Allen Bolt
10. Disc
1 1. Wheel
12. Axle Nut
13. Speedometer Gear
Housing
14. Speedometer Gear
15. Grease Seal
16. Pin
17. Washer
18. Speedometer Pinion
19. Bushing
276 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L
Bearings, Brake Disc Removal and Installation:
Refer t o Pgs. 11 7-1 18, noting the following:
T o remove the brake disc IO
, remove the disc m o u n t - ing Allen bolts 9
T o remove the left side ball bearing
I , remove the circlip 6 and speedometer gear driver 7
, and remove the l e f t side ball bearing.
M o u n t the brake disc o n the wheel so that the mark- ed side faces out, and tighten the disc mounting
Allen bolts t o 2.3 kg-m (1 6.5 ft-l bs) o f torque.
Pad Installation:
@Remove the bleed valve cap
2 on the caliper, attach a clear plastic hose t o the bleed valve 3
, and run the other end o f the hose i n t o a container.
.Open (loosen) the valve slightly, push the piston in b y hand as far as it will go, and then close (tighten) the valve. Wipe up any spilled fluid, and recap the bleed valve. The bleed valve must be tightened t o 0.80 kg-m (69 in-lbs) o f torque.
A. Bleed Valve B. Hose C. Piston
A. Marking of the disc thickness service limit.
F R O N T DISC BRAKE (on KZ550-C)
The caliper mounted o n KZ550-C f r o n t disc brake i s different f r o m KZ500.
Refer t o Pgs. 11 8-1 23, noting the following:
Pad Removal:
@Remove the caliper holder shaft bolts ( 2 ) .
@Check that the sliders I3 (2) are i n place.
.Fit the pads against the disc.
A. Pads B. Sliders C. Anti-rattle Spring
A . Caliper B. Holder Shaft Bolts
@Lift 4 o f f the holder LZ , and remove the pads k (2).
.Check that the anti-rattle spring i s i n place. I f i t was removed, install i t t o the caliper as shown i n Fig. N43.
.Install the caliper, and tighten the caliper holder shaft bolts t o 1.8 kg-m (1 3.0 ft-l bs) o f torque.
@Since some brake fluid was lost when the bleed valve was opened, check the f l u i d level i n the master cylinder and bleed the air f r o m the brake system (Pg. 205).
@Push the bleed valve cap o n t o the valve.
@Check the f r o n t brake.
Front Brake Caliper (KZ550-C)
SUPPLEMENT FOR
1980
M O D E L 277
Caliper Holder Shaft
Bolt
Bleed Valve Cap
Bleed Valve
Caliper
Fluid Seal
Piston
Dust Seal
Anti-rattle Spring
Caliper Mounting
Bolt
Caliper Holder Shaft
Dust Cover
Caliper Holder
Slider
Pads
Caliper Holder Shaft
Friction Boot v
Do not attempt t o drive the motorcycle until a f u l l brake lever i s obtained b y pumping the brake lever until the pads are against the disc. The brake will not function on the first applica- tion of the lever if this i s not done.
Caliper Disassembly:
.Remove the caliper holder shaft bolts 1 (2), and pull out the caliper holder 4: and the pads r4 (2).
.Remove the holder shafts 10 dnd 15 w ~ t h covers I I . There i s the friction boot 16 on the shaft
15 that diameter i s smaller than the other.
.Remove the anti-rattle spring 2 .
.Remove the dust seal 7 around the piston 6 .
C o v e r the caliper opening with a clean, heavy cloth, and remove the piston by lightly applying compressed
TO avoid serious injury, never place your fingers or palm inside the caliper opening.
If you apply compressed air i n t o the caliper, the piston may cruch your hand or fingers.
NOTE: I f compressed air i s n o t available, reconnect the brake line and pump the piston out with the brake lever.
A. Compressed Air B. Heavy Cloth C. Piston
.Taking care not to damage the cylinder surface, remove the fluid seal 5 with a hook.
Caliper Assembly Notes:
1. Clean the caliper parts with brake fluid or alcohol
(See CAUTION
-
2. I t i s recommended thdt the fluid seal, which i s re- moved, be replaced with a new one.
3. Replace the dust covers and friction boot i f they were damaged.
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
Apply brake fluid to the outside o f the piston dnd the fluid seal, and push the piston into the cylinder by hand. Take care that neither- the cylinder nor the piston skirt get scratched.
Install the dust seal around the piston. Check that the dust seal i s properly fitted into the grooves in the piston and on the caliper.
Caliper Dust Seal (N 47)
.Being careful not to bend or otherwise damage it, free the rear brake light switch spring from the tab on the brake pedal.
.Remove the adjusting nut from the end of the brake rod, and then free the rod from the cam lever by depressing the brake pedal. Remove the brake rod spring and joint.
A . Adjusting Nut
B. Brake Rod Joint
C. Brake Rod Spring
D . Rear Torque Link Nut
E. Safety Clip
1. Caliper
2. Dust Seal
3. Piston
4. Fluid Seal
6. Apply a thin coat o f PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) grease t o the caliper holder shafts and holder holes. (PBC i s a special high temperature, water-resistance grease).
7. Install the anti-rattle spring to the caliper as shown.
.Take out the safety clip from the rear torque link bolt, remove the nut, lockwasher, and bolt.
.Take o u t the cotter pin, and loosen the axle nut.
A . Axle Nut
B. Cotter Pin
C. Chain Adjusting Bolt
D. Locknut
A. Anti-rattle Spring
8. D o n o t forget to tighten the holder shaft bolts after installing the caliper on the motorcycle (Pg. 276).
REAR WHEEL, REAR DRUM BRAKE
Removal
:
.Put the motorcycle up on its center stand.
.Remove the drive chain guard.
.Loosen the left and right chain adjusting bolt locknuts, back out the chain adjusting bolts, and kick the wheel forward until the chain i s too loose.
.Remove the bolts, and take out the chain adjuster stops.
*Slip the chain o f f the sprocket, and then pull the wheel.
*Remove the axle nut, and pull o f f the axle.
Installation:
.Check to see that the coupling collar, coupling sleeve, rubber damper, and brake panel are in place.
.Slide the axle through the left chain adjuster, coupling collar, coupling, coupling sleeve, rear hub, brake panel, spacer, and right chain adjuster from the left to right.
The chain adjusters should be installed with the notch mark side facing out.
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L
279
A. Brake Shoes 6. Springs
.Remove the springs 20 (2) to separate the t w o brake shoes.
.Mark the position o f the cam lever g so that i t can be installed later in the same position.
.Unbolt and remove the cam lever, brake lining wear indicator
2 3 ,
dust seal a ,
23.
A. Chain Adjuster B. Notch
.Put the rear wheel into the swing arm end, and install the chain adjuster stops (2). Tighten the bolts (2) with lockwashers (2).
.Fit the drive chain onto the rear sprocket.
.Insert the axle nut, and tighten the nut loosely.
.Insert the torque link bolt into the brake panel, and install the torque link, lockwasher, and nut. Tighten the n u t loosely.
.Install the chain guard.
.Adjust the drive chain (Pg. 265).
.Install the spring on the end o f the brake rod, f i t the rod through the joint, and screw on the adjusting nut.
.Carefully f i t the rear brake light switch spring back i n t o the tab on the brake pedal.
.Adjust the rear brake (Pg. 266), and check the rear brake light switch adjustment (Pg. 30).
Rear Drum Brake Assembly:
.Clean the old grease from the camshaft, and regrease using regular cup grease. Apply grease t o the center o f the shaft and on the cam surfaces. Do not over- grease.
.Put the camshaft back into the panel.
.Fit the springs onto the brake shoes, and wrapping d clean cloth around the linings to prevent grease or oil from getting on them, install the shoes onto the brake panel.
.Fit the dust seal and the indicator on the serration so that i t points to the extreme right o f the letters
"USABLE RANGE".
Rear Drum Brake Disassembly:
.Remove the brake panel 2~ from the wheel.
.Using a clean cloth around the linings t o prevent grease or oil from getting on them, remove the brake shoes f9 by pulling up on the center o f the linings.
A. Indicator B. USABLE R A N G E
.Install the cam lever in i t s original position on the camshaft, and tighten i t s bolt.
Wheel
Coupling
Disassembly
and
Assembly:
Refer to Pg. 126, noting the following:
.Using the bearing driver and driver holder (special tools: PIN 57001 -296, -1 39), install the wheel coupling ball bearing until it stops.
SUPPLEMENT FOR
1980
MODEL
281
Never lubricate with mineral oil (engine oil, or gasoline because they will cause deterioration of the tire.
.Break the beads away from both sides o f the r i m with the bead breaker (special tool).
TUBELESS TIRES
(on KZ550-C)
The tubeless tires are mounted on KZ550-C. Damage t o the rim flanges and tire beads spoil the airtightness o f tubeless tires and rims. When handling tubeless tires and rims, be careful n o t to damage the air-sealing sur- faces. See the Maintenance Section for detailed infor- mation regarding tubeless tires (Pg. 288).
The following explanation covers tire removal and installation using bead breaker, rim protectors, and tire irons (special tools). I f tires are to be removed and installed using a tire changer, operate i t in the manner prescribed by the manufacturer.
NOTE: A tire changer suitable for tubeless and tube- type tires i s available as a Kawasaki special tool. a use only wheels, valves, and tires rec- ommended may result in an unsafe condition, leading to accident and injury.
2. Never install a tube on the rims on this motorcycle.
They are designed for tubeless tires only.
Removal:
.Remove the wheel from the motorcycle (Pg. 11 5 or
1 23).
.Remove the speedometer gear housing and collar, and remove the disc(s) from the hub.
.To maintain wheel balance, mark the valve stem posi- tion on the tire with chalk so that the tire will be reinstalled in the same position.
.Take out the valve core to let out the air.
A. Bead Breaker (57001-1072)
.Install the rim protectors (special tools) around the valve stem. Lubricate the tire irons and r i m protectors with a soap and water solution, or rubber lubricant.
.Step on the side o f the tire opposite the valve stem, and start prying the tire o f f the rim near the valve stem with tire irons (special tools).
NOTE: For easier removal, always position the tire bead opposite the valve stem in the rim well, and pry the tire bead a little at a time.
C A U T I O N
Be careful not to scratch the inner liner a and air sealing surfaces of the rim and tire with the tire irons. A scratched inner liner or sealing surface may allow air to leak.
Air Sealing Surfaces a
A. Valve Core B. Chalk Mark
*Lubricate the tire beads and rim flanges on both sides with a soap and water solution or rubber lubricant.
This helps the tire beads slip o f f the rim flanges. 1 . Air Sealing Surfaces
282
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
.Apply a soap and water solution, or rubber lubricant to the rim flanges, rim protectors, tire beads, and tire
Irons.
*Check the tire rotation mark on the rear tire and install i t on the rim accordingly.
NOTE: The direction of the tire rotation is shown by an arrow on the tire sidewall.
A. Rim Protectors (57001-1063)
B. Tire Irons (57001-1073)
.After removing the bead on one side, turn the wheel over and remove the other side.
.Remove the rim from the tire.
.Remove the rim protectors from the rim.
A. Rotation Mark (Arrow)
B. Balance Mark (Yellow Paint)
Installation:
.Inspect the rim and tire, and replace them i f necessary.
NOTE: Refer to Pg. 289 for tire repair.
C l e a n the sealing surfaces of the rim and tire, and smooth the sealing surface of the rim with a fine emery cloth i f necessary.
.Replace the valve with a new one. Tighten the mount- ing nut and locknut to 0.1 5 kg-m ( 1 3 in4 bs) of torque.
Valve
1. Locknut
2. Nut
3. Washer
4. Cast Wheel
5. Grommet
6. Valve Stem
@Position the tire on the rim so that the valve is at the tire balance mark (the chalk mark made during removal, or the yellow paint mark on a new tire).
.Fit the rim protectors on the rim flange near the valve stem.
*By hand, slide as much as possible of the lower side of the tire bead over the rim flange, starting at the side opposite the valve.
@Use tire irons to install the remaining part of the tire bead which cannot be installed bv hand. For easv tire installation, position the part 0 the bead which is already over the rim flange in the rim well.
NOTE: To prevent rim damage, be sure to place the rim protectors at any place the tire irons are applied.
*Install the other side of the tire bead onto the rim in the same manner.
@Lubricate the tire beads and rim flanges with a soap and water solution or rubber lubricant to helu seat the tire beads in the sealing surfaces of the rim while inflating the tire.
Center the rim in the tire beads, and inflate the tire with compressed air until the tire beads seat in the sealing surfaces.
Be sure to install the valve core whenever inflating the tire, and do not inflate the tire t o more than 4.0 kg/cm2 (57 psi). Overinflation can explode the tire with possibility of injury and loss of life.
*Check to see that the rim lines on both sides of the tire sidewalls are parallel with the rim flanges.
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL 283
Rim Line
* I f the rim lines and tire sidewall lines are not parallel, remove the valve core. Lubricate the rim flanges and tire beads. Install the valve core and inflate the tire again.
*After the tire beads seat in the rim flanges, check for air leaks. Inflate the tire slightly above standard in- flation. Use a soap and water solution or submerge it, and check for bubbles that would indicate leakage.
*Adjust the air pressure to the specified pressure (Pg.
289).
*Adjust the wheel balance (Pg. 31).
*Install the wheel (Pg. 11 5 or 124).
THROTTLE CABLES
Refer to Pgs. 134- 136, noting the following:
*To install the accelerator cable without sharp bends, run i t between the frame top tube and the main harness.
A. Handlebar B. Front Fork C. 10"
FRONT FORK (on KZ550-C)
The front fork on KZ550-C i s an air adjustable front fork. Refer to Pgs. 147- 150, noting the following:
Disassembly:
*Remove the rubber cap 15 from the top o f the inner tube.
*Release the air through the air valve ,171 before dis- assembling the fork leg.
*Remove the air valve {T and i t s 0 1 8 i f necessary.
*Pressing the top plug 13 to remove the top plug retain- ing ring 16, remove the top plug and 0 23.
*Remove the spring container, pumping as necessary to empty o u t all the oil.
*Remove the front fork bottom Allen bolt J? and gasket stopping the cylinder I from turning w i t h the f r o n t fork cylinder holder handle and adapter (special tools:
P/N 57001 -1 83, -1 01 1).
*Remove the dust seal 5 o f f the outer tube.
*Remove the circlip 61 o f f the outer tube.
*Slide the oil seal driver (special tool) o n t o the inner tube with the bigger diameter side of the driver first.
*To pull out the inner tube, hold the inner tube perpen- dicularly by hand and h i t the outer tube with the oil seal driver. Don't hold the outer tube at this time, and take care n o t to drop the outer tube onto your foot.
A. Accelerator Cable 6. Main Harness
HANDLEBAR (on KZ550-C)
Refer to Pgs. 142
-
144, noting the following:
1. The front turn signal assemblies are mounted on the handlebar.
2. Mount the handlebar so that the handlebar come to an 10" angle with the front fork.
A. Driver (57001-1 091) B. Tap
*Remove the oil seal $:
, oil seal seat
, and guide bush
9 with the inner tube 2 3 .
*Remove the cylinder I and spring 3 from the inner tube.
.Remove the cylinder base 4 from the outer tube.
284 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
Front Fork (KZ550-C)
1. Piston and Cylinder
Unit
2. Piston Ring
3. Spring
4. Piston Base
5. Dust Seal
6. Circlip
7. Oil Seal
8. Oil Seal Seat
9. Guide Bush
1 0. Left Outer Tube
11. Gasket
12. Allen Bolt
13. Gasket
14. Drain Bolt
15. Rubber Cap
16. Retaining Ring
17. Air Valve
1 8.
19. Top Plug
20.
21. Clamp Bolt
22. Spring
23. Left lnner Tube
24. Guide Bush
25. Stem Head
26. Clamp Bolt
27. Loc kwasher
28. Nut
29. Right Fork Leg
30. Lower lnner Race
31. Grease Seal
32. Flat Washer
33. Steering Stem
34. Clamp Bolt
35. N u t
Assembly Notes:
Inspect the oil seal and gu~de brushes (Pg. 295), and replace them with new ones i f necessary. Also check the 0 ring for damage. Replace them with a new one i f damaged.
Being careful not to damage the guide bush at the lower end of the inner tube, insert the inner tube.
Apply liquid gasket to both sides of the gasket I I
, apply a non-permanent locking agent to the Allen bolt, and tighten i t using the front fork cylinder holder handle and adapter (special tools) to stop the cylinder from turning. The torque for the Allen bolt i s 1.8 kg-m (1 3.0 ft-I bs).
Install the guide bush 9 with the oil seal seat 8 using the driver (special tool) until i t stops. The slit of the bush must faced toward the left or right.
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L 2 8 5
D R I V E C H A I N (on KZ400)
Removal :
C h e c k to see that the transmission i s in neutral.
.Remove the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
.Remove the clip from the drive chain master link using pliers, and remove the master link.
.Free the drive chain from the sprockets, being careful that the chdin does not get dirty from contact with the ground.
lnstallation Note:
*Install the master link clip with pliers. The direction o f the master link clip must be as shown.
Incorrect installation of the master link clip can allow it t o catch on an adjacent part. I f the clip dislodged, the chain could come apart, and this may result in rear wheel lock-up and loss of control.
Drive Chain Master Link Clip Installation
Direction o f Chain Rotation
A. Outer Tube
B. Guide Bush
C. Slit
D. Driver (57001-1091
5, Install the oil seal with the driver (special tool) used the guide bush installing. Do not strike the oil seal too strongly that the oil seal i s deformed, which could cause oil leakage.
6. Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads o f t h e air valve, and tighten the valve t o 1.2 kg-m
(1 04 in-l bs) of torque.
7. Inject air through the air valve (Pg. 264) after assem. bling t h e fork leg.
SWING A R M (on KZ550-C)
Refer to Pgs. 150
-
152, noting the following:
.Install the needle bearings and grease seals with a press as shown in the figure.
Needle Bearing and Grease Seal Installation
1. Needle Bearing
2. Grease Seal
286 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
Maintenance
CARBURETOR
Refer to Pgs. 156- 162, noting the following:
1. Table N6 shows the carburetor specifications for KZQOQJ and KZ550.
2. J e t needle on US model carburetor has only one groove in which the clip i s set.
Table N6 Carburetor Specifications
Fuel Level (mm)
Model
Type
Main J e t J e t Needle Pilot Jet Pilot Screw
Throttle Valve
Cutaway
Design Service
KZ400
K21 P-2A
@ K ~ I P - 2 ~
$9 0
4C91-2 r32
I % * %
@ 1 K + '/n
2.5 29.5
*
1 3.5
*
1
@ # 9 2
I
KZ550 (US)
I
K22P-2C
1
#92
1
4D92
1
#32
1
- 2.5
1
29.5
*
1
1
3.5
*
1
1
KZ550 (other than US)
K22P-2D
@
K21 P-2A
#92
@
#90
4D93-2
@ 4 ~ 9 1 - 2
"32
1
3/8
@ I % * %
2.5 29.5
+
1 3.5
*
1
@
: West German model
KAWASAKI CLEAN AIR SYSTEM
(on US Model)
The motorcycle on US model adopts the air injection system for the clean air system.
The secondary air injection system helps the fuellair mixture burn more completely. Following the power stroke, the exhaust valve opens. As the burned fuel charge passes the exhaust valve, it i s still h o t enough t o burn i f air i s supplied. By introducing a stream of fresh air into the hot exhaust gases just as they pass
Kawasaki Clean Air System (US model) the exhaust valve, the burning i s both intensified and prolonged. This increased burning action tends to burn up a great deal o f the normally unburned gases, as well as changing a significant portion of the positions carbon monoxide into harmless carbon dioxide.
The secondary air injection system consists o f a vacuum switch valve, air suction valves, and air hoses.
Without the use o f an air pump, this system introduces fresh air into the exhaust system near the exhaust ports in response to pressure differentials generated by pulses in the exhaust.
1. Air Cleaner Housing
2. Air Cleaner Element
3. Air Hose
4. Vacuum Switch Valve
5. Air Hose
6. Air Suction Valve
7. Exhaust Valve
8. Vacuum Hose
Air Suction Valve
The air valve is essentially a check valve which allows fresh air t o f l o w only f r o m the air cleaner i n t o the ex- haust port. A n y air that has passed the air suction valve i s prevented f r o m returning. Remove and inspect the air suction valves periodically (Pg. 262). Also, remove and inspect the air suction valves whenever the idle is unstable, engine power i s greatly reduced, or there are abnormal engine noises.
Inspection
Visually inspect the reeds for cracks, folds, warping heat damage, or other damage. I f there is any doubt as t o the condition o f a reed, replace the air suction valve as an assembly.
Check the reed contact areas o f the valve holder for grooves, scratches, any signs o f separation from the holder, or heat damage. Check the sealing lip coating o n the valve holder for the same signs. I f there i s any doubt as t o the condition o f the reed contact areas or the sealing lip, replace the air suction valve as an assem- bly.
I f any carbon or other foreign particles have accu- mulated between the reed and the reed contact area, wash the valve assembly w i t h a high flash-point solvent.
Do not scrape off the deposits as this @ air suction valve assembly replacement.
S U P P L E M E N T FOR 1980 M O D E L 287
Vacuum Switch Valve
Although the vacuum switch valve usually permits secondary air flow, it shuts o f f the air f l o w when a high vacuum ( l o w pressure) i s developed at the engine side o f the carburetor bores during engine braking.
This i s t o prevent explosions in the exhaust ports which might be caused by extra unburned fuel i n the exhaust during deceleration, if fresh air were injected i n t o the exhaust ports. These explosions or "backfiring" i n the exhaust system could damage the air suction valves.
Regular inspection o f the vacuum switch valve is n o t needed. I f backfiring occurs frequently i n the exhaust system during engine braking or i f there are abnormal engine noises, check the vacuum switch valve as follows:
lnspection
Be certain that all the hoses are routed w i t h o u t being flattened or kinked, and are connected correctly t o the air cleaner housing, vacuum switch valve, #2 and +3 carburetor holders, and air suction covers. I f they are not, correct them. Replace them if damaged.
Using the vacuum gauge (special tool) and a syringe, inspect the vacuum switch operation as follows:
R e m o v e the fuel tank.
@Pull the air hose o u t o f the air cleaner housing.
*Slide the hose clamps o u t o f place, and pull the vacuum hoses (2) o f f the carburetor holders.
C o n n e c t the vacuum gauge and a syringe t o the vacuum hoses.
A. Valve Holder B. Reeds
Vacuum Switch Valve Operation
A. Vacuum Gauge (57001-127 or 226)
B. Syringe C. Air Hose D. Vacuum Hoses
Durine Eneine Brakine
U Id
Secondary Air flows.
High Vacuum
-
4
Seconddry Air cannot f l o w .
288
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
*Gradually raise the vacuum (lower the pressure) applied t o the vacuum switch valve, and check the valve opera- tion. When the vacuum i s l o w enough, the vacuum switch valve should p e r m i t air t o flow. When the vacuum reaches a certain level between 4 0 and 46 cmHg, i t should stop air flow. When the vacuum is high enough, the air cannot also f l o w through the valve.
I f the vacuum switch valve does n o t operate a5 t h i s , re- place i t with a new one. Adjustment i s n o t permitted.
NOTE: Whether the valve permits the air t o f l o w or n o t is confirmed by blowing the air hose with breath.
Do not apply a vacuum more than 50 cmHg to the vacuum switch valve as this could damage the diaphragm in the valve.
*Conversely, gradually lower the vacuum (raise the pressure) applied f r o m the high vacuum, and check the valve operation. The valve will return t o i t s original state just the reverse way as i t came, b u t the transi- tion should occur when the vacuum comes t o a level between 40 and 46 cmHg. I f the valve does n o t work as specified, replace the valve with a new one.
WHEEL (on KZ550-C)
Tubeless tires are installed on the wheels o f KZ550-C.
The main advantage o f the tubeless tires is an added measure o f driving safety. I n the event o f a puncture, tubeless tires would n o t blow o u t but instead tend t o lose air gradually. Another advantage is cooler running characteristics.
The tire and r i m form a leakproof unit by making airtight contacts at the tire chafers and the rim flanges instead o f using an inner tube. m motorcycle is designed only for tubeless type wheels. The recommended standard tires, rims, and air valves must be used for replacement. For correct performance, do not install a tube in a tubeless tire.
Tire
Structure o f the tubeless tire i s characterized by an inner liner and chafers.
The inner liner i s a layer o f thicker rubber which covers the inside wall o f the tire. The inner liner is made from special quality o f rubber which is hard t o admit the air. Generally chafers reinforce tire beads which are likely damaged by friction with the rim.
The chafers o f tubeless tires have a characteristic o f airtightness as well.
Since airtightness o f tubeless tires i s accomplished by closely seating the chafers i n good condition on the rim, be careful n o t t o damage the chafers when handling tubeless tires.
Tubeless Tire Tube Tire
1 . Air Vdlve
2. R i m
3. Rim Sealing Area
4. Bead Sealing Area
5. Bead Wires
7. Plies
8. Inner Liner
9. Side Wall
10. Tread
I . Air Valve
2. Rim
3. Chafers
4. Bead Wires
5. Plies
6. Tube
7. Side Wdli
8. Tread
The indication o f "TUBELESS" on the tire sidewall shows that the tire i s designed for tubeless use.
A. "TUBELESS"
The tires are designed to provide good traction and power transmission during acceleration and braking, even on bad surfaces. T o do this, they must be inflated t o the correct pressure and not overloaded. The maxi- mum recommended load, in addition to vehicle weight, i s 155 kg.
I f the tires are inflated to too high a pressure, the ride i s rough, the center portion o f the tread wears quickly, and the tires are easily damaged.
I f inflation pressure i s too low, the shoulder oortions wear quickly, the cord suffers damage, fuel consimption i s high and handling i s poor. In addition, heat builds up at high speeds, and tire life i s greatly shortened.
TO ensure safe handling and stability, use only the recommended standard tires for replacement, inflated to the standard pressure
(Table N7). A certain variation from the standard pres- sure may be desired depending on road surface condi- tions (rain, snow, rough surface, etc.).
Table N7 Tires, Air Pressure (measured when cold)
Air Pressure
1.75 kg/cm2 (25 psi)
Make,
Size
Dunlop I
:$S-19
1
Gold Seal
I
F8 Nylon
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
289
Tire repair
Currently two types o f repair for tubeless tires have come into wide use. One type i s called temporary
(external) repairs which can be carried o u t without removing the tire from the rim, and another type i s called permanent (internal) repairs which require tire removal. I t i s generally understood that higher running durability i s obtained by permanent (internal) repairs than by temporary (external) ones. Also, permanent
(internal) repairs also have the advantage o f permitting a thorough examination for secondary damage n o t visible from external inspection of the tire. For these reasons, Kawasaki does not recommend temporary
(external) repair. Only appropriate permanent (internal) repairs are recommended.
The tubeless tire repair methods described here de- scribe the methods for COMBl UNITS made by TIP
TIP (trade names). Repair methods may vary slightly
TOP (trade names). Repair methods may vary slightly from make to make. Follow the repair methods indi- cated by the manufacturer of the repair tools and materials so that safe results can be obtained. a recover the original performance by any repair method. When being repaired with COMBl
UNITS made by TIP TOP, do not exceed 80 kph within
24 hours after repair, and 180 kph (113 mph) at any time after that.
*Locate the mark the puncture and remove the injuring object.
*Remove the tire from rim (Pg. 281).
*Inspect the tire carefully. I f any damage mentioned below i s found, replace the tire with a new one:
1. Puncture or tear larger than 3 mm diameter.
2. Two punctures within 40 cm distance.
3. Three punctures or more in one tire.
4. Puncture or damage on sidewall.
.Inspect the rim. I f there is any damage such as i s mentioned on Pg. 291, replace the rim with a new one.
.Repair the tire puncture. COMBl UNITS made by TIP
TOP are used here to describe the internal repair methods o f tubeless tires.
OSpread the tire slightly at the injury with the bead breaker (special tool). Choose a drill b i t o f slightly greater diameter than the injury.
NOTE: The diameter o f a drill must be less than 3 m m at maximum.
Y 1 . 3 -
155 kg load
1
2.00 kg/cm2 130190-16 ~ ~ ~ 7 ' e a '
(28 psi)
1
67s
1
Nvlon
I
Tubeless load
West German Model
Tire wear, damage
Refer to Pg. 194. A. Bead Breaker (57001-1072)
290 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
OBefore buffing the tires, thoroughly clean the area around the puncture with a suitable solvent and scrape out all mold lubricants (i.e. silicon, graphite, etc.).
Let dry before bufffing.
K e n t e r the COMBl U N l T on the puncture inside o f the tire and draw an outline (do not use crayon). spread a thin, even coat ot the same Cement to the buffed surface. Keep the repair area up to permit faster evaporation o f solvent. Allow approximately
10 minutes for drying.
buff the area slightly larger than the COMBl UNIT, remove the buffing dust.
OUse the COMBl U N l T for motorcycle tires. Remove the protective sleeve from the stem of the COMBl
UNIT. Break the metal foil across the center and peel the foil toward the edge. Coat the surface with a thin layer o f Special Tire Cement. Do not touch the patch area.
X e n t e r the drill in the break inside o f the tire and screw into the puncture.
NOTE: Be careful not to expand the injury with the drill.
ORun the stem o f the COMBl U N l T patch through the inserting wire.
OClean the buffed area thoroughly.
OCoat the puncture channel with a heavy layer of Rema
Special Tire Cement. Using clean fingers or a brush,
OApply Special Tire Cement to the upper end o f the stem (30 mm above the patch) so that the stem o f
COMBl U N l T patch slips smoothly.
OPull the end of the stem through the puncture without turning until the base presses against inside of the tire.
SUPPLEMENT
FOR
1980 MODEL
291
The rims for tubeless tires are specially designed in shape, size and finish to be airtight and t o keep the tire from coming o f f the rim.
Table N 8 Rim Size, Type*
Size, Type
Front
Rear
19 x MT2.15 Tubeless
1
1 7 x M T 3 . 0 0 Tubeless
I
*The rim size shown in the table is the inner width o f the rim flanges and bead seat diameter, both i n inches.
Rim Size
roll the stitcher cover the patch as hard as possible, keeping strokes close together and working from the center outwards.
cut off the protruding rubber tail flush with the tire surface.
Width
Rim runout measurement
Refer to Pg. 194.
.Install the tire on the rim (Pg. 282).
.Balance the wheel (Pg. 31).
Rim
The indication "TUBELESS" on the rim shows that the rim is specially designed for tubeless tires.
Rim damage
Carefully inspect the wheel for small cracks, dents, bents, or warp. I f there is any damage t o the wheel, i t must be replaced.
Never attempt to repair a damaged wheel.
LWARNING)
I f there is any damage besides wheel bearings, the wheel must be replaced to insure safe operational condition.
I f the rim has a scratch deeper than 0.5 m m and/or across the rim sealing surface, replace the wheel.
Air Valve
For tubeless tires, the air valve i s installed directly on the rim. The airtightness between the rim and the valve stem i s ensured with a rubber grommet.
A. "TUBELESS'
292 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L
Air Valve I
1. Locknut
2. Nut
3. Washer
4. Cast Wheel
5. Grommet
6. Valve Stem
Axle, Grease Seal, Wheel Bearing, and
Rear Wheel Coupling
Refer to Pgs. 1 95
-
196.
Speedometer Gear Housing
The speedometer gear housing i s mounted on the left side o f the front hub. The speedometer gear and pinion are in the housing, transmit the revolution of the front wheel t o the speedometer through the speedometer cable.
The speedometer gear housing should be greased periodically.
Lubrication
Clean and grease to speedometer gear housing in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart (Pg.
26 2 ) .
Table N9 Drive Chain
1
Model Make Type Links
Enuma EK530SH-0 100 link
I I I 1
Enuma
I
EK530D-G
I
100 link KZ400
1
2. The drive chain for KZ400 i s not an "endless" type.
I t is provided with a master link to facilitate removal and replacement. T o minimize any chance of the master link dislodging, the master link clip i s fitted with the closed end of the " U " pointed in the direc- tion o f the chain rotation; follow the replacement procedure given in the Disassembly section (Pg. 285).
3. The drive chain for KZ400 has no i n the lubricant between the pin and t h e bushing.
SPROCKET
The rear sprocket o f KZSOO-B has been changed for the diameter, and the rear sprocket of KZ550-C i s different from the rear sprocket o f KZSOO-B. Refer t o
Pgs. 197
-
198, noting the following:
Table N10 Rear Sprocket Diameter
Service L i m i t
I
191.9 mm
1
181.8 mm
D R U M B R A K E
Drum Brake
The rear wheel o f KZ550-A, KZ550-C, or KZ400-) i s equipped with a leading-trailing type of drum brake.
"Leading-trailing" means that one o f the two brake shoes leads, expanding against the drum in the direction o f drum rotation, and the other shoe trails, expanding in the direction opposite drum rotation.
-
Direction of Rotation
(N84)
J
A. Speedometer Gear Housing B. Grease
D R I V E C H A I N
Refer to Pgs. 196-1 97, noting the following:
1. Table N9 shows the drive chain type.
The force applied by the rider upon braking i s trans- mitted t o the interior o f the brake by a camshaft. The force applied at the brake pedal i s transmitted by a rod to the cam lever which then turns the camshaft.
When the camshaft rotates, the large portion o f the cam i s forced between the two brake shoes. Since the shoes are only held together away from the drum by springs, the cam, overcoming spring tension, pushes the shoes outward against the drum. The leading shoe rotates in direction "A", and the trailing shoe in direction " B " as shown in the diagrams.
The friction between the linings and the drum, which decelerates the motorcycle, gradually wears down the brake shoe linings. On the outside o f the brake panel is a brake lining wear indicator, which, as the brake i s applied, moves in direct proportion to the distance that the brake shoe linings move to reach the brake drum.
As the linings wear down, the lining surface has farther to travel before reaching the drum. The indicator accordingly travels farther until i t finally points just to the left of the " U " in USABLE when the lining wear has reached the service limit.
Due to wear o f the brake drum, shoe linings, and cam, periodic brake adjustment i s required. However, i f the brake parts become overworn, adjustment will not be sufficient to ensure safe brake operation. Not only can overworn parts crack (drum) and otherwise suffer damage as they lose their braking effectiveness, but, i f the cam wears to the point where i t turns nearly hori- zontal when the brake i s fully applied, the brake may lock in the applied position, or brake pedal return may be very sluggish. All brake parts should be checked for wear in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart
(Pg. 262).
SUPPLEMENT FOR
1980
MODEL 293
Table N11 Brake Drum Inside Diameter
1
Service L i m i t
1
180.75 mm
Brake shoe lining wear
Check the thickness o f the brake linings, and replace both shoes as a set i f the thickness at any point i s less than the service limit. I f the thickness o f the brake linings is sufficient, check the linings for uneven wear, and file or sand down any high spots. With a wire brush, remove any foreign particles imbedded i n the lining surface. Wash o f f any oil or grease with a high flash- point solvent. D o not use one which will leave an oily residue. In case the linings are damaged or the surface cannot be restored by sanding and cleaning, the shoes must be replaced.
Table N12 Brake Lining Thickness
Service L i m i t
1
2.5 mm
Brake drum wear
Measure the inside diameter o f the brake drum with calipers to determine wear. Since uneven drum wear will decrease braking effectiveness, take measurement at a minimum o f two places. I f the drum i s worn unevenly or i f it i s scored, turn the drum down on a brake drum lathe or replace the wheel with a new one.
(Do not turn i t down to the service limit, and do not turn i t down i f any diameter measurement exceeds the service limit). I f any diameter measurement exceeds the service limit, replace the wheel with a new one.
A. Lining Thickness
Brake shoe spring tension
I f the brake springs have stretched, they will n o t pull the shoes back away from the drum after the brake pedal or lever i s released, and the shoes will drag on the drum. Remove the springs, and check their free length with vernier calipers. I f either is service limit, replace both springs. stretched beyond the
Table N13 Brake Shoe Spring Free Length
I
Service L i m i t
1
69.0 mm
1
Brake Shoe Spring Free Length (N8T) r-
Measure this length.
I
294 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L
Camshaft, shaft hole wear
Excessive shaft to hole clearance will increase cam- shaft play and reduce braking efficiency.
Measure the shaft diameter with a micrometer, and replace it if it i s worn down to less than the service limit.
Measure the inside diameter of the camshaft hole, and replace the brake panel i f the hole i s worn past the service limit.
Table N14 Brake Camshaft, Camshaft Hole Diameter
Camshaft
A. Camshaft
DISC B R A K E (on KZ550-C)
Master Cylinder
Refer to Pgs. 200- 201, noting the following:
A. Camshaft
?I&*
B. Camhsaft Hole
Table N15 Front Master Cylinder Parts for Single Disc
Measurement
Cylinder Inside Diameter
Service L i m i t
12.78 mm
Piston Outside Diameter
Primary Cup Diameter
12.63 mm
12.8 mm
. .
Spring Free Length
,
13.1 mm
47.2 m m
1
Lubrication
Every time that the brake i s disassembled, and in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart (Pg.
262), wipe out the old grease, and re-grease the brake pivot points. Apply grease to the brake shoe anchor pin, spring ends, and cam surface o f the camshaft, and fill the camshaft groove with grease. D o n o t get any grease on the brake shoe linings, and wipe o f f any excess grease so that i t will not get on the linings or drum after brake assembly.
F R O N T F O R K (on KZ550-C)
Refer to Pgs. 207
-
210, noting the following:
Pneumatic Front Fork
The front fork legs o f KZ550-C contain compressed air to obtain adjustable suspension. This type of the front fork is especially effective when the fork i s com- pressed. I t also has the advantage that any air pressure can be choosen (within the usable range) to suit various riding conditions.
I t accomplishes shock absorption through air com- pression in the inner tube, spring action, and the resist- ance to the flow o f the oil forced into the cylinder by the movement. a compressed air only. Correct springs must be used in this suspension system. Use without springs can lead t o a condition causing accident and injury.
Oil Seal, Dust Seal
Refer to Pg. 209.
Fork Oil
Refer to Pgs. 209- 21 0, noting the following: A. Camshaft B. Groove C. Grease
Front Fork Load/Compression Stroke
Replacement (per each f o r k leg)
(N91)
SUPPLEMENT
FOR
1980 MODEL 295
Fork Oil Level Measurement
200
'
2 Cornprewon jmmj
Fork oil change
*Put a motorcycle up on its center stand.
*Release air through the air valve at the top end o f the front fork.
*Remove the handlebar o f f the stem head.
.Remove the drain bolt from the lower end o f the outer tube.
*Pump out the oil by repeatedly compressing and ex- tending the front fork.
*Wash the drain bolt threads clean o f oil, and blow them dry.
.Apply a liquid gasket to the thread o f drain bolt, and tighten the bolt t o 0.80 kg-m (69 in-lbs) of torque with gasket.
*Remove the top plug, and remove the spring from the inner tube, and pour in the type and amount of oil specified in Table N16.
Table N16 Fork Oil
The operation of air front forks i s espe- cially dependent upon correct o i l level.
Higher level than specified may cause oil leakage and seal breakage. So be sure t o maintain the specified level.
*Inspect the 0 ring on the top plug, and replace it with a new one i f i t i s damaged.
*Install the spring and top plug, and f i t the retainer.
*Change the oil o f the other fork leg in the same manner.
*Install the handlebar (Pg. 283).
*Adjust the front fork air pressure (Pg. 264).
Inner Tube, Guide Bush
Guide bush damage
Visually inspect the guide bush, replace the guide bush or the inner tube assembly i f i t has badly damage.
SAE
5W20 about
270cc completely dry about
290 cc
356 k from the top of the inner tube
*Pump the fork by several times to expel the air from the upper and lower chambers.
*Place a jack or stand under the engine so that the front wheel is raised o f f the ground.
*Insert a rod down into the tube, and measure the dis- tance from t h e top of the inner tube to the oil level.
*If the oil i s below the correct level, add enough oil to bring i t up to the proper level, taking care not to over- fill.
A. Guide Bushes
Spring
Refer to Pg. 209, noting the following:
Table N17 Fork Spring Free Length
Service L i m i t
1
6 0 5 m m
1
296
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
Front Fork Spring Force
(per each fork leg)
Rear Shock Absorber (KZ550-C)
-j2 0 50 100
Compression (mrn)
150 180
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
The rear shock absorbers on KZ550-C can be adjusted by the spring force and damping force. Shock absorber spring force can be adjusted to 5 settings, and damping force can be adjusted to 4 settings.
Shock Absorber Spring Force
(per each shock absorber)
(N95)
1. Rubber Bushing
2. Damping Adjuster
3. Spring Seat
4. Rubber Stop
5. Piston Rod
6. Adjusting Rod
7. Oil Seal
8. Valvc
9. Piston
10. Outer Shell
1 1 . Spring
12. Spring Seat
13. Adjusting Sleeve
14. Inner Shell
15. Valve
16. Collar
17. Damping Adjusting
Section
IGNITION SYSTEM (on KZ550-C)
The ignition system for this model i 3 essentially a battery and coil ignition sy5tem where the battery sup- plies the current for the primary circuit in the ignition system. However, this ignition system i s transistorized and controls the current for the primary circuit by use o f a solid state electronic switching unit called a
Darlington power transistor. The power transistors are triggered by pick-up coils and there are no mechanical breaker points, so the only periodic maintenance needed i s automatic timing advancer lubrication (Pg. 262). Since contact breaker heel wear (with resultant retarded igni- tion timing) and breaker point pitting or burning are eliminated, periodic inspection and adjustment of the ignition timing are not required.
Ordinarily in a 4-stroke engine, a spark jumps acros the spark plug electrodes only every other time that the piston for that spark plug rises (once every 720' of crankshaft rotation). This i s because between each compression stroke, in which a fuellair mixture ready for combustion i s in the cylinder, there is an exhaust stroke, in which the piston rises only to push o u t t h e burned gases. However, even i f a spark does jump across the electrodes during the exhaust stroke, there i s no effect since there is no compression and no fuel to burn.
Therefore, to eliminate any need for a distributor (thus simplifying the system and making it more reliable), the system is constructed so that both sparkoplugs fire every time both pistons rise (once every 360 o f crankshaft rotation) although one piston is on the compression stroke and the other on the exhaust stroke.
Because the two spark plugs are connected in series, the current through one spark plug also must go through the other. Consequently, i f a spark will not jump across
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL 297
the electrodes of one spark plug (due to dirty electrodes, faulty plug lead, etc.), no spark will jump across the electrodes o f the other plug as well.
The working electrical part of the ignition system consists of a battery, two pick-up coils, an IC igniter, two ignition coils, and four spark plugs. T o advance the ignition timing as engine rpm rises, an automatic centrifugal-type timing advancer i s used. The ignition system comprises two parts, one part fires cylinders, and the other part
#I and #4
#2 and #3 cylinders. A schematic wiring diagram o f one half the system i s shown in Fig. N97. work as follows.
The other half i s identical. Both
Pick-up Coil
The pick-up coil assembly (a magnetic impulse gener- ator) resembles the standard contact breaker assembly in most respects except that the two sets o f breaker points have been eliminated. In their places i s an iron timing rotor and two magnetic pick-up coils. Each pick-up coil assembly consists of a pair o f permanent magnets and a pick-up coil on a mounting plate. The timing rotor which i s attached to the timing advancer has one projection. As the projection on the timing rotor passes through the magnetic field created by the permanent magnets on the mounting plate, a magnetic field alter- nately builds up and collapses. Each time the projection passes a pick-up coil core an electric current i s devel- oped. Each voltage pulse i s conducted to the IC igniter where i t i s amplified and switches the Darlington power transistor on and o f f to control the primary current.
Ignition Circuit lgnition Engine Stop
Switch Switch
Battery
Spark Plugs
Ignition Coil n
Timing
P i c k - U ~ Rotor
Coil I
298 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L
Pick-up Coil Output Voltage at L o w and High Speed at high spccd
at low speed
.
A. Pick-up Coil Assembly f f ; I J < o $
* - i
Dwell Angle
+ T l r n ~ n g
Rotot
R o t a t ~ o n
I C Igniter
The I C igniter utilizes the voltage pulse sent f r o m the pick-up coil as follows t o obtain stable induced high tension voltage from low t o high engine speeds. The o u t p u t voltage o f the pick-up coil alternates as shown i n Fig. N99.
O o t p u t Voltage o f Pick-up Coil
(N99)
Dwell Time and Primary Current
(Breaker Point System) d
?
0 decreases a5 dwell time decrease,
Po1nt5 ilusc
'\ (when middle speed)
\
Points open (when high speed)
With rotation o f the timing r o t o r the o u t p u t voltage rises, and the power transistor conducts and permits primary current t o flow when the pick-up coil o u t p u t reaches the preset voltage (V on). When the o u t p u t voltage drops t o the other preset voltage ( V o f f ) after passing the voltage peak, the power transistor n o longer conducts stopping the current f l o w i n the ignition coil primary winding and inducing a high tension voltage that jumps across the spark plug electrodes. I n the case o f a standard breaker point ignition system the dwell time (the time during which current can f l o w in the primary circuit) decreases as the engine speed increases.
This results i n less current flow through the ignition coil primary winding and decreased induced voltage at high rpm. Conversely the dwell time i n this transistor- ized ignition system is kept relatively constant by virtue o f the pick-up coil output voltage. This is because the faster the engine runs, the higher the o u t p u t voltage o f the pick-up coil becomes and the sooner the V o n volt- age is reached. Therefore the dwell angle increases t o keep the dwell time long enough at high engine rpm so that the induced high voltage does n o t decrease.
lgnition Coil, Timing Advancer, Spark Plug
Refer t o Pgs. 221
-
224.
lgnition System Troubleshooting Guide
I f trouble is suspected i n the ignition system, check the system by the following procedure.
A n example o f troubleshooting i s shown in Fig. N102.
T o use this chart, follow the arrows on the chart select- ing a "yes" o r " n o " arrow at each diamond-shaped step until you reach the "end". Each test procedure is ex- plained individually on the pages after the chart. This chart is f o r one half o f the ignition circuit; use the same chart for the other half.
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL 299
(Nt02) Ignition System Troubleshooting Guide
Beginning -7 rm dYnamlc correct and rotor \'Yo
1
Yes l nspect ignition coil
Perform operational inspection of
Ignition system
5 v
No
Perform ignition system wiring check
Yes
4
4
Inspect pick-up coil
Replace
> damaged parts v
End
Check leads, connec- tions, ignition coil, spark plug caps, and pick-up coil
Yes
Perform IC
> igniter o u t o f circuit test
>
Replace igniter i f resistances differ from specified values
I
Repair or replace
300
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
Description of Each Testing Procedure
1. Dynamic lgnition Timing Test
Check the ignition timing with a strobe light for both low and high speed operation. Timing advance begins at at
-
3,400 rpm. As a result, the timing must be checked at idle (below
3,400 i s fully advanced. lgnition TiminglEngine Speed Relationship aligned with the timing mark above the advancer for correct high rprn ignition timing.
Engine Speed (rprn)
Check the timing as follows:
.Connect a strobe light to the #1 or #4 spark plug lead in the manner prescribed by the manufacturer in order t o check the ignition timing under operating condi- tions.
*Turn on the ignition switch and engine stop switch.
Start the engine, and direct the strobe light at the timing marks.
.Below "F" mark on the timing ad- vancer must be aligned with the timing mark above the advancer for correct low rprn ignition timing.
A. Timing Mark
I
Table N18 Timing Advancing
I
Engine S ~ e e d
Advance Begins
Full Advance
1
.If the timing i s not correct, check that the rotor on the timing advancer turns smoothly on the shaft by hand and that no parts are visually damaged.
.If the timing advancer binds on the shaft, lubricate it and re-check the ignition timing.
.A damaged timing advancer must be replaced with a new one. I f advancer lubrication does not remedy the problem, replace the advancer with a new one.
2. lgnition Coil Inspection
Refer to Pgs. 221
-
222, noting the following:
Table N19 lgnition Coil Resistance
(measured when cold)
Primary Winding
Secondary Winding
Meter Range x 1 52 x I kL2
Meter Reading
A. Timing Mark "F" Mark
.Above vertical lines to the right o f the
3. Operational lnspection of the lgnition System
.Have a DC voltage source o f 6 - 12 volts output such as a motorcycle battery.
.Pull o f f the right side cover, and disconnect the 4-pin connector which connects the IC igniter and the pick- up coils.
.Remove the fuel tank, and pull the spark plug caps o f f the spark plugs.
Operational Inspection of the lgnition System
Fuse
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL 301
(m)
Ignition Engine
Switch Stop Switch nn
L
Elec
.Connect the spark plug leads to the Electrotester in the same way as for measuring the arcing distance.
For this test, the Electrotester need not be supplied with electric power.
.Slide the adjusting knob to set the arcing distance to
5 - 8 m m .
.In the 4-pin connector from the IC igniter, connect the DC voltage source positive (+) lead t o the black lead and the negative (-) lead to the blue lead for the
#I and #4 ignition coil (voltage source positive (+) lead to the yellow lead and the negative (-) lead to the red lead for the #2 and #3 ignition coil).
.Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, and switch the DC voltage source on and off.
.As the DC voltage source i s switched, sparks should jump across the needles in the Electrotester.
4. Pick-up Coil lnspection
.Connect the multimeter to the pick-up coil leads to measure the coil resistance as shown in the table.
Table N20 Pick-up Coil Resistance
M c t e l
K d n g e
Connections
6-12 V o l t
Battery
Redding
I
'
O0
I
I he o l h e ~
(Yellow+) l e d
+
Blue lead
1
360-
540 R
I
@ I f there is more resistance than shown in the table, the coil has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less than this resistance means the coil i s shorted, and must be replaced.
.Using the highest resistance range of the multimeter, measure the resistance between the pick-up coil leads and chassis ground. Any meter reading less than in- finity
(m) indicates a short, necessitating replacement o f the pick-up coil assembly.
.Visually inspect the pick-up coil assembly. I f the per- manent magnets and coils are damaged, replace the pick-up coil assembly.
A. Pick-up Coil Leads A. Magnet B. Pick-up Coil
302 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
Table N21 Wiring Inspection
Meter Range Connections*
Meter (+)
+
Yellow/Red, Black, or Green
2 0 V DC
Meter (+)
+
Black, Blue, Yellow, or Red
- -
*Connect the meter (-) lead t o ground.
Location
A t 4-pin connector for the ignition coils
A t 4-pin connector for the pick-up coils
Reading
Battery voltage
0.5
-
1 .OV
Table N22 I C lgniter o u t o f Circuit Test b v e t e l Kdnge u l l\R l o o n
MCICI ( + )
-
Bl,iik/YeIlow
Meter ( j
Merer ( + )
Metel ( )
Meter ( + )
-+
+
-
G ~ e e n
B l d c k / Y e l l o ~ -
Yellow/Red
"vleter ( )
+
Bidck/Yellow
Rilctcr ( + j
+
Bldch/Yellow
Meter ( - ) -. YellowIRed
I
L o ~ n l i o n
A t 4-pin connector x 1 k n
+Icier ( + j
Vetcr
(-1
+
Blue (Red)
+
B I ' L ~ (Yellow)
Meter ( + j
-+
Black (Yellow)
Metet ( j
+
Blue (Red)
A t 4-pin connector for the pick-up coils a r Medwied wlth the Kawd5dkr Hand Te5tei (P/U 57001 983)
A tester other than the Kdwasnk~ Hdnd Testel maL show 5lrghtly dlfterent redd~ngs
5. Ignition System Wiring Check
.Reconnect all leads and connectors which were dis- connected.
C o n n e c t the multimeter t o the IC igniter leads as shown in the table, turn on the ignition switch, and note the meter readings. Measure the lead voltages w i t h the engine stopped.
6. I C Igniter O u t o f Circuit Test
* T u r n o f f the ignition switch, and disconnect all the
I C igniter leads and connector.
C o n n e c t the multimeter as shown i n the table N 2 2 t o check the internal resistance o f the igniter.
Ignition TimingIEngine Speed Relationship
40
-
-
0
+ m
3 0 -
-.
-
36.5 m
200-500 52
200-600 n i o o -
700 n
25-45 n
20-40 n
.
.
5
-
K
-
1 0 -
-
0
0
% a
Q.
1
8 ~8 z- ,
1,000 2,000 3,000
Engine Speed (rpm)
4,000
I G N I T I O N SYSTEM (on KZ400)
Timing Advancer
Refer t o Pgs. 2 2 3 - 2 2 4 , noting the following:
ELECTRIC STARTER SYSTEM (on KZ550)
Refer t o Pgs. 2 2 5 - 2 2 9 , noting the following:
Starter Motor
The starter m o t o r on K Z 5 5 0 has the permanent magnets in the yoke instead o f the field coils. So this m o t o r should be inspected the yoke assembly for damaging the permanent magnets or terminal insulator.
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL 303
Yoke assembly inspection
Using the highest ohmmeter range, measure the resistance between the carbon brush and the yoke
(housing). I f there i s any meter reading, the brush assembly i s shorted to the ground, the terminal insulator must be replaced.
LIGHTING SYSTEM (on US, Canadian Model)
Headlight Circuit
Fig. N111 i s US and Canadian models wiring diagram o f the headlight circuit.
In the US and Canadian models, there i s no headlight switch. When the ignition switch i s turned t o the on position the headlight circuit i s completed, turning on the headlight, tail light, and meter lights. With the dimmer switch, high and low beam can be selected.
Headlight trouble
I f the headlight does not light, check to see i f the bulb has burned out or fuses have blown. I f the bulb has burned out, the sealed beam unit must be replaced.
A blown fuse should be replaced. I f the bulb and fuses are good, check the dimmer switch and the ignition switch. Table N23 shows the connections in the dimmer switch for both high and l o w beam. Remove t h e fuel tank, and disconnect the 6-pin connector and blue lead t o the dimmer switch. Use an ohmmeter to see that only the connections shown in the table have continuity
(zero ohms). I f the switch has an open or a short, i t can be disassembled for repair. The contact surfaces may be cleaned, but no internal parts are available for replace- ment. I f any parts are n o t repairable, the switch must be replaced as a unit. I f the procedure above does not remedy the problem, check the ignition switch (Pg. 229) and the wiring.
Headlight Circuit (US, Canadian Model)
A. 6-pin Connector B. Blue Lead
Table N23 Dimmer Switch Connection
I
Color
I
RedIBlack
1
Blue
I
RedIYellow
1
I f the headlight lights but does not light brightly, the trouble may be that the headlight i s o f improper wattage or the alternator i s not supplying sufficient current. However, the trouble may also be caused by a short or a component drawing too much current in some other part o f the electrical system.
Tail light trouble
I f the tail light does n o t go on when the circuit is closed, the filament i s probably burned out. However, i f the bulb is good, check the fuses, wiring, ignition switch, and battery.
304 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 MODEL
SERVICE DATA FOR KZ400
The following tables show the service data applied only on KZ400-J. Refer t o the maintenance or supple- ment section for the items not included here.
Table N24 Cylinder Inside Diameter
1
52.10 mm, or more than 0.05 rnm difference between anv two measurements
I
Table N25 Piston Diameter
1
Service Limit
1
51.80 mm
I
Table N26 Piston Oil Ring/Groove Clearance
Service L i m i t
Table N27 Piston Oil Ring Thickness
Service Limit
Table N28 Piston Oil Ring End Gap
Service L i m i t 0.7 mm
Table
(
0.1 5 mm
]
2.40 mm
N29 Cylinder Compression?
-
14.9 kg/cm2 (1 38
-
21 2 psi),
Usable
9.7 or less than 1 kg/cm2 (14 psi) dif-
Range ference between anv t w o cvlinders
?Engine hot, spark plugs removed, throttle fully opened, cranking the engine with the starter motor.
Table N31 Piston Diameter
Service L i m i t 57.80 rnm
Table N32 Clutch Housing GearISecondary
Shaf-t Gear Backlash
Service L i m i t 0.14 mm
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
Refer to Pgs. 237 -240, noting the following:
1. If the air suction valves in the air injection system are damaged
-
Low engine output, unstable idling, or abnormal engine noise will result.
2. I f the vacuum switch valve i n the air injection system is damaged -
Frequent backfiring in the exhaust system, or abnormal engine noise will result.
3. I f trouble i s suspected in the drum brake, refer to the following
-
Brakes Don't Hold
Drum brake
Brake maladjusted
Brake linings or drum worn
Overheated
Water in brake drum
Brake cam, camshaft worn
Oil on brake linings
Abnormal Frame Noise
Drum brake noise
Brake linings overworn or worn unevenly
Drum worn unevenly or scored
Brake springs weak or broken
Foreign matter in hub
Brake n o t properly adjusted
4. I f trouble i s suspected in the transistorized ignition system, refer t o the troubleshooting guide in the
Maintenance Section.
SERVICE DATA FOR KZ550
The following tables show the service data applied only on KZ.550. Refer to the maintenance or supple- ment section for the items not included here.
Table N30 Cvlinder Inside Diameter
I
Service L i m i t
58.1 0 mm, or more than 0.05 mm difference between any two measurements
I
Appendix
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1980 M O D E L
305
ADDITIONAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR
RACING (on US Model)
Carburetor
jet needle on the carburetor o f US model has only one groove in which the clip i s set. So a richer mixture cannot be made by changing the position o f the needle.
SPECIAL TOOLS
Refer to Pgs. 244- 247, adding the following:
1. For the motorcycle with the rear drum brake, the bearing driver i s necessary to install the ball bearing o f the rear wheel coupling.
A. Driver (57001-1 091
4. For KZ550-C, the bead breaker assy i s necessary t o remove the tubeless tire.
A. Bearing Driver (57001-296)
2. For KZ550-C, the air pressure gauge is necessary to check the front fork air pressure.
\
,d
- _ - -
A. Bead Breaker Assy (57001-1072)
B. Tire Irons (57001-1073)
\
\
\
\
- -
/
\
"*
\ - -
- 1
A. Air Pressure Gauge (52005-1003)
3. KZ550-C, the driver is necessary t o remove and install the front fork oil seal.
WIRING DIAGRAMS
Table N33 shows the locations o f the wiring diagrams for the variation models.
Table N33 Wiring Diagrams
Model
KZ400-J 1
KZ550-A1
US, Canada
Other than
US, Canada
KZ550C1
US, Canada
Other than
US, Canada
Remarks
Same as KZ500-B1 (Pg. 248)
See Pg. 306.
Same as KZSOO-61 (Pg. 248)
See Pg. 307.
See Pg. 308.
SUPPLEMENT FOR
1981
MODEL 309
Supplement for 1981 Model
Table of Contents
[ALL]
MODEL IDENTIFICATION
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS
1981 MODEL MAIN CHANGED ITEMS
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE CHART
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
ADJUSTMENT
FRONT FORK
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
DISASSEMBLY
CLUTCH
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
REAR DISC BRAKE
HEADLIGHT
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MAINTENANCE
CYLINDER HEAD VALVE
WHEEL
DISCBRAKE
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
FRONT FORK
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS
SWING ARM
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
RESERVE LIGHTING SYSTEM
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
APPENDIX
SPECIALTOOLS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
WIRING DIAGRAMS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
[KZ550Cl
DISASSEMBLY
FUEL LEVEL SENDER (on KZ550C)
MAINTENANCE
AUTOMATIC TURN SIGNAL
CANCE LLlNG SYSTEM (on KZ550C)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
LOW FUEL WARN1 NG SYSTEM (on KZ550C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
[KZ550Dl
ADJUSTMENT
BRAKE LIGHT SWITCHES (on KZ550D)
DISASSEMBLY
TORQUE AND LOCKING AGENT (on KZ550D)
FUEL LEVEL SENDER (on KZ550D)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SHIFT PEDAL LINKAGE (on KZ550-D)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
322
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
OI L COOLER (on KZ550D)
FA1 LING (on KZ550D)
323
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
HEADLIGHT (on KZ550D)
324
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
TU RN SIGNAL ASSY (on KZ550D)
325
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
MAINTENANCE
CARBURETORS (on KZ550D)
FUEL GAUGE (on KZ550D)
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
310 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 MODEL
Model Identification
KZ4OO- J2
SUPPLEMENT FOR
1981
MODEL
311
312 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 M O D E L
SPEC1 FlCATlONS
Specifications
Dimensions
Overall length
Overall width
Overall height
Wheelbase
Road clearance
Dry weight
Feul tank capacity
Performance
Climbing ability
Braking distance
Minimum turning radius
Engine
Type
Bore and stroke
Displacement
Compression ratio
Maximum horsepower
Maximum torque
2,100 mm,
785 mm,
@ 2,150 mm
@ 740 mm
1,125 mm, @ 1,095 mm
1,395 mm
145 mm
187 kg,
@ @
191 kg
15 liters
30"
12.5 m from 50 kph
2.4 m
DOHC, 4-stroke, 4-cy linder, air-cooled
52.0 x 47.0 mm
399 cc
9.5
43HP 639,500 rprn
@
27HP (97,500 rprn
3.5 kg-m 637,500 rprn
@
2.8 kg-m 636,500 rprn
Valve timing l nlet
Exhaust
Carburetors
X
55.0 x 52.4 mm
497 cc
*
52HP @9,000 rprn
4.5 kg-m (97,500 rprn
Open
Close
Duratior
Open
Close
Duratior
33" BTDC
41" ABDC
254"
51" BBDC
23" ATDC
254"
TK K21 P-2A,
@
TK K21 P-2B
20" BTDC
48" ABDC
248"
48" BBDC
20" ATDC
248"
TK K22P-2A
Lubrication system Forced lubrication (wet sump)
Engine oil
Starting system
Ignition system
Spark plugs
Capacity
Cylinder numbering method
Firing order
Ignition timing
3E class SAE 1 OW40,
20W40, or 20W50
1 OWSO,
3.0 liters
Electric starter
Battery and coil
(transistorized ignition)
Left t o right, 1-2-3-4
1-2-4-3
From 15" BTDC 631 ,200 rprn t o 35" BTDC 633,200 rprn
VGK D8EA or NDX24ES-U k
=ram
10" BTDC @1,050 rprn t o 35" BTDC 633,200 rprn
* : Same as KZ400-J2
* * : Same as KZ500-B3
* * * : Same as KZ550-A2
KZ550-A2
1
KZ550-B2
UK
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 MODEL 313
8:
European model @:
: U.K. model
West German model
: U.S. model
1
KZ550-C2
1
KZ550-Dl
*
*
*
*
*
188 kg,
*
@
191 kg
2,160 mm,
850 mm,
@ 2,190 mm
@
805 mm
1,200 mm,
@
1,205 mm
1,420 mm
140 mm
192 kg, @ 198 kg
12.4 liters
*
740 mm
1,185 mrn
1,400 mm
*
199.5 kg
*
1
I m from 50 kph
58.0 x 52.4 mm
553 cc
*
54HP 08,500 rprn a rprn
@ 49.7HP 08,000 rprn
4.9 kg-m 07,000 rprn
@ 4.8 kg-m @7,000 rprn
@
4.8 kg-m 06,500 rprn
* * *
*
54HP @8,500 rprn
@
53HP @8,500 rprn
@
50HP 08,500 rprn
4.9 kg-m @7,000 rprn
@ 4.8 kg-m 07,000 rprn
@
4.7 kg-m @7,000 rprn
10.0
58HP 09,000 rprn
@
57HP 09,000 rprn
4.9 kg-m @8,000 rprn
31" BTDC
59" ABDC
270"
59" BBDC
31" ATDC
270"
Forced lubrication
(wet sump with cooler)
314 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 MODEL
SPEC1 FICATIONS (CONT.) l terns
Transmission
Type
Clutch
Gear ratio:
6th
Primary reduction ratio
Final reduction ratio
Overall drive ratio
2nd
3rd
4th
5th
Frame
Type
Steering angle
Castor
Trail
Tire
Suspension
Front
Rear
Front
Rear
Front Wheel travel
Front fork oil
Rear
Type
Capacity (per each fork)
Brakes
Type Front
Rear
Effective disc diameter
Front
Rear
Brake drum inside diameter and width
Electrical Equipment
Alternator
6-speed, constant mesh, return shift
Wet multi disc
2.571 (36114)
1.777 (3211 8 )
1.380 (2912 1 )
1.1 25 (27124)
0.961 (25126)
0.851 (23127)
3.277 (27123 x 67124)
2.500 (40116)
6.979 @Top gear
Tubular, double cradle
39" t o either side
26"
98 mm
3.25s-19 4PR (tubeless)
3.75s-18 4PR (tubeless)
Telescopic fork (pneumatic)
Swing arm
180 mm
120 mm
SAE 5W20
245 cc
Single disc,
Drum brake
236 mm,
---
@ @
Double disc
@ @
226 mm
180 x 40 mm
*
*
*
*
*
*
*
2.935 (27123 x 65/26)
*
6.249 @Top gear
*
37" to either side
*
*
3.25H- 19 4PR (tubeless)
*
*
*
3.75H-18 4PR (tubeless)
*
*
*
Double disc
Single disc
226 mm
226 mm
---
Battery
Headlight
Rated output
Type
Bulb
15 amp. @10,000 rprn, 14V
12V 12AH
Semi-sealed (quartz-halogen),
0
12V 60/55W,
*
*
Three- hase AC,
@&a@
Single-phase AC
*
18.5 amp.
@)@a@
I s a m p . @
10,000 rpm, 14V
Specifications subject t o change without notice, and may not apply t o every country.
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 MODEL 315
2.375 (3811 6)
5.937 @Top gear b
130190-16 67s (tubeless)
* : Same as KZ400-J2
* * : Same as KZ500-B3
* * * * * : Same as KZ550-C2
@ : Other than European, US, and Canadian model
@ : Swiss model
: U.K. model
: West German model
3 1 6 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 M O D E L
1981 M O D E L M A I N C H A N G E D I T E M S
1.
Transistor Controlled Breakerless Ignition
Motorcycle for 1981 model has a magnetically con- trolled transistor ignition system which is the same system as 1980 KZ550C had. Refer to the following items in
1980 Supplement.
[ I 9 8 0 Supplement] olgnition Timing (Pg. 263)
OPickup Coil Assy (Pgs. 273-274)
OTiming Advancer (Pg. 274) olgnition System (Pgs. 297-302)
5.
Disc Brakes, Wheels, Swing Arm
Motorcycle for 1981 model has new type disc brakes, wheels, and swing arm. Refer to the following items in
1980 Supplement with 1981 Supplement.
11 980 Supplement] oTorque and Locking Agent (Pg. 268)
OFront Wheel (Pgs. 275-276)
OFront Disc Brake (Pgs. 276-278)
OSwing Arm (Pg. 285) owheel (Pgs. 288
-
292) j 1981 Supplement]
.Rear Disc Brake (Pg. 320)
*Disc Brake (Pg. 328)
@Swing Arm (Pg. 329)
2.
Starter Motor
The starter motor on the motorcycle for 1981
KZ400/500 is changed. New starter motor is the same motor as 1980 KZ550 had. Refer to the following items i n 1980 Supplement.
[ I 980 Supplement] oTorque and Locking Agent (Pg. 268)
OStarter Motor (Pgs. 272- 273)
OElectric Starter System (Pgs. 302
-
303)
3. Suspensions
Motorcycle for 1981 model has a pneumatic front f o r k and 4-way adjustable damping shocks which are the same mechanism as 1980 KZ550C had. Refer to the following items in 1980 Supplement with 1981
Supplement.
[ I 980 Supplement]
OFront Fork (Pg. 264) oRear Shock Absorbers (Pgs. 264- 265)
OFront and Rear Suspension Setting (Pg. 265)
torque and Locking Agent (Pg. 268)
OFront Fork (Pgs. 283-285)
OFront Fork (Pgs. 294-296) oSpecial Tools (Pg. 305)
[ I 981 Supplement]
.Front Fork (Pg. 31 8)
.Rear Shock Absorber (Pg. 31 8)
.Front Fork (Pg. 329)
.Rear Shock Absorber (Pg. 329)
4. Tubeless Tires
Tubeless tires are mounted on the motorcycle for
1981 model. Refer to the following items o f KZ550C i n Supplement with 1981 Supplement.
[ I 980 Supplement]
OTorque and Locking Agent (Pg. 268)
OTires (Pgs. 281 owheel (Pgs. 288
-
- 283)
292)
OSpecial Tools (Pg. 305)
[ I 981 Supplement]
.Wheel (Pg. 328)
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 MODEL 317
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE CHART
The maintenance and adjustments for 1981 model must be done in accordance with this chart t o keep the motorcycle in good running condition. The initial maintenance i s vitally important and must not be neglected.
ODOMETER READING* k m month t
Brake - check t
Brake light switch
- t
Brake wear
- i
Brake fluid level - t
Brake fluid - change
Clutch -
Carburetor operation -
Throttle grip - teering play - t t t
Drive chain wear
Front fork - clean
Nuts, bolts, fasteners - t
I S ~ a r k clean and aac, t.
Valve clearance - f
Air suction valve - t ( I f applicable)
Air cleaner element -
I Air cleaner element - re~lace
I
I month
5 cleanings
1
0 0
0
1 214
200,292
328
204
0
0 0
287
154
1 54
24,263
194
24 vear
I General lubrication - ~ e r f o r m
I
Front fork oil - change
I
1 Timina advancer - lubricate 1
Steering stem bearing -
Master cvlinder cur, and dust seal -
Caliper piston seal and dust seal -
Brake hose - redace
I Fuel hose -Fc,lace
Drive chain - lubricate
Drive chain slack - t 1
2 vears
2 vears
2 vears
I
I
I
2 years
2 years
2 years
4 vears
Everv 800 k m
329
0
I 195
I
I I I I
0 1
I 1 292
I I I I I I
1 294
207
4 years
I I I I I 1
Every 300 k m
20 1
202
206
-
197
2 8
*
For higher odometer readings, repeat a t the frequency interval here. t Replace, add, adjust or torque if necessary.
3 1 8 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 M O D E L
Adjustment
F R O N T FORK
See the following table to adjust the fork air pressure.
Table N34 Front Fork Air Pressure
I
I
KZ550C
1
0.6 kg/cm2
( 8 5 psi,
1
0.5- 0.7 kg/cm2
(7.1
-
10.0 psi,
1
60 kPa)
1
5 0 - 7 0 kPa) I A. Arrow Mark
B. Position Number
C. Damper Adjuster
R E A R SHOCK ABSORBERS
Refer to 1980 Supplement with the following ex- ceptions.
1. There is a boss on each adjusting sleeve to adjust the spring tension. Using the screwdriver bit, adjust them.
B R A K E
LIGHT
SWITCHES
(on
KZ550D)
Rear brake light switch on KZ550D i s different from the other model's switch. But, the adjustment method of i t is the same as the other model's switch.
A. Adjusting Sleeve
B. Screwdriver Bit
C. Boss
2. Damper adjuster on KZ550D is different from the other model's adjuster. To change the damping force, grasp the adjuster and turn i t until the desired number is pointed by the arrow.
A. Mounting Nuts
B. Adjusting Nut
C. Lights sooner.
D. Lights later.
SUPPLEMENT FOR
1981
M O D E L
319
Disassembly
CLUTCH
The clutch release is modified as shown in Fig. N120.
Refer t o the following exceptions.
Clutch Release ('79 -I80 model)
2.
Removal and Installation Procedures
Removal:
@Remove the engine sprocket cover (Pg. 69).
@Remove the clutch release lever and steel ball assembly.
@Remove the clutch adjusting cover screws
(.BE o f f the cover.
(2), and take
@Remove the clutch adjusting screw locknut, adjusting screw, and ball ramp plate.
Installation:
@Wash and clean the clutch release lever, steel ball as- sembly, and ball ramp plate w i t h a high flash-point solvent. D r y and lubricate them w i t h grease.
@Check that the grease seal i s in place.
1. Locknut
2. Adjusting Screw
3. Circlip
4. Steel Ball x 1 I
5. Outer Worm Gear
Clutch Release ('81 model)
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Inner Worm Gear
Cotter Pin
Spring
Retainer
Screw x 2
A. Grease Seal
@Install the adjusting screw and ball ramp plate, aligning the ridge on the engine sprocket cover w i t h the groove in the ball ramp plate.
1. Locknut
2. Adjusting Screw
3. Ball Ramp Plate
4. Ball Assembly
5. Grease Seal
6. Release Lever
7. Cotter Pin
8. Spring
9. Push Rod
10. Steel Ball
1. Clutch Release ('81 model)
When the clutch release lever 6 turns, the lever rides on the steel balls 4
, and pushes the push rod '91 toward the clutch. The clutch adjusting screw
~ 1 , assembled t o the steel ball ramp plate 3
, is installed i n the engine sprocket cover.
A. F i t the ridge and the groove. B. Ramp Plate
@Install the adjusting screw locknut w i t h finger tight.
@Install the steel ball assembly.
@ A p p l y a grease t o the grease seal, and install the clutch release lever.
@Install the engine sprocket cover (pg. 69).
@Check and adjust the clutch (Pg. 22).
320 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 M O D E L
R E A R DISC BRAKE
The reservoir i s separated from the rear master cylinder body, and connected to i t with a brake hose.
Rear Master Cylinder, Reservoir Removal:
.Pull o f f the right side cover.
.Remove the rear brake reservoir mounting bolt, and take the reservoir o f f the frame.
*Remove the banjo bolt to disconnect the brake hose from the master cylinder. There i s a flat washer on each side of the hose fitting.
immediate!^ wipe up any brake fluid that spills.
.Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts, and free the rear master cylinder and reservoir from the motor- cycle.
Rear Master Cylinder, Reservoir l nstallation Note:
1. Use a new flat washer on each side o f the brake hose fitting, and tighten the banjo bolt to 3.0 kg-m (22 ft-
Rear Master Cylinder and Reservoir
Ibs) o f torque. Be sure that the metal pipe comes t o the right side o f the stop on the master cylinder.
2. Tighten the brake hose clamp screws firmly after installation.
3. Bleed the brake line after installation (Pg. 205).
4. Adjsut the rear brake (Pg. 29).
Rear Master Cylinder, Reservoir Disassembly:
@Loosen the clamp, disconnect the brake hose from the reservoir cup, and temporarily secure the end o f the brake hose to some high place to keep fluid loss to a minimum.
.Slide the push rod dust cover out of i t s place.
@Remove the ratainer with a thin screwdriver, and pull out the piston stop and piston assembly.
Do not remove the spring, primary cup, and secondary cup from the piston since removal will damage them.
@Take o f f the reservoir cap and diaphragm, and empty the brake fluid into a suitable container.
.Loosen the clamp, and pull the brake hose o f f the res- ervoir. Immediately wipe up any brake fluid that spills.
(Em)
1. Cap
2. Ring Plate
3. Diaphragm
4. Bolt
5. Reservoir
6. Clamp x 2
7. Hose
8. Fitting
9. Banjo Bolt x 2
10. Washer x 4
11. B o l t s x 2
12. Spring
13. Piston
14. Grommet
15. Stop
16. Dust Cover
17. Locknut
18. Cotter Pin
19. Clevis
20. Hose
21. Master Cylinder
Body
22. Primary Cup
23. Secondary Cup
24. Retainer
25. Push Rod
26. Pin
Rear Master Cylinder, Reservoir Assembly Note:
1. Before assembly, clean all parts including the master cylinder with brake fluid or alcohol, and apply brake fluid to the removed parts and the inner wall of the cylinder. Take care not t o scratch the piston or the inner wall o f the cylinder.
SUPPLEMENT FOR
1981
MODEL
321
When handling the quartz-halogen bulb, never touch the glass portion with bare hands. Always use a clean cloth. Oil contamination from hands or dirty rags can reduce bulb life or even cause the bulb to explode-
HEADLIGHT
There are the motorcycles which have the quartz- halogen headlight bulb.
Headlight Bulb (Quartz-halogen)
(-NET)
FUEL LEVEL SENDER (on KZ550C)
The fuel level sender i s attached on the b o t t o m o f the fuel tank.
Fuel Level Sender (on KZ550C)
(rn)
1. Refrector
2. Retaining Spring
3. Bulb
4. Dust Cover
1. 0 Ring
2. Fuel Level Sender
3. Flat Washer x 2
4. Screw x 2
TORQUE AND LOCKING AGENT (on KZ550D)
The table below shows the tightening torque for the parts which are attached t o KZ550D. Tighten the other parts t o torque listed on Pgs. 39- 43, 268. -
Locking
Torque
See
Part Quantity
-
Agent
( 0 ) kg-m
Page
Required
[Engine]
Oil cooler mounting Allen bolts
$6 P1.O
Oil tube lower mounting bolts
87 in-lbs
87 in-lbs
Oil tube upper mounting nuts
$16 P1.5
Shift pedal pivot bolt
$14 P1.5
16.5
18.0
[Chassis]
Turn signal assy mounting nuts
$10 P1.25
11 3 in-lbs
322 SUPPLEMENT FOR
1981
MODEL
FUEL LEVEL SENDER (on KZ550D)
The fuel level sender i s attached on the bottom of the fuel tank.
Fuel Level Sender (on KZ550D)
OThe shift pedal linkage angles are at 90'. oThe lower side o f the shift pedal end matches the upper level o f the left footpeg.
I f the pedal i s found improperly adjusted by either one o f the above checks, adjust the shift pedal.
1. 0
2. Fuel Level Sender
3. Lockwasher x 5
4.
5.
6.
Screw x 5
Cover
Hose
NOTE: 1. Install the fuel level sender t o the fuel tank so that the arrow on the sender points forward.
2. Adjust the shift pedal as the following procedures:
@In case o f the linkage angle at the shift lever i s im- proper, first remove the lever, and then remount i t at a new position on the shift shaft for the proper angle.
@Tighten the lever bolt.
@Loosen the locknuts o f the shift linkage rod.
@Turn the rod t o make the proper pedal position, and tighten the locknuts.
A. Fuel Level Sender
B. Arrow Mark
C. Cover
2. F i t the cover onto the bottom o f the fuel level sender as shown in the figure.
A. Shift Lever
B. Shift Linkage Rod
C. Locknuts
S H I F T PEDAL LINKAGE (on KZ550D)
Refer t o the following exceptions:
1. T o make the shift pedal function most effectively, the shift pedal linkage should be in the proper po- sition.
3. Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads of the pivot bolt 4
, and tighten it to 2.5 kg-m (18.0 ft-lbs) of torque.
4. Apply a grease t o the pivot bolt before the shift pedal installation.
Shift Pedal Linkage (on KZ550D) ( - 1
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 M O D E L 323
A. Mounting Bolts
.Keep the oil tube fittings from turning, loosen the oil tube upper mounting nuts, and take o f f the oil tubes.
1. Circlip
2. Flat Washer x 2
3. Shift Pedal
4. Pivot Bolt
5. Pedal Rubber
6. Shift Linkage Rod
7. Shift Lever
8. Bolt
O I L COOLER (on KZ550D)
A. Oil Tube Fitting C. Hold t o keep from turning.
6. Oil Tube Upper Mounting Nut
To prevent damage to the oil tube fittings, ICAUTib-Ejl keep them with a wrench from turning during the oil tube upper mounting nuts loosening or tightening.
.Remove the oil cooler mounting Allen bolts, and take o f f the oil cooler covers and oil cooler.
A. Oil Cooler
Removal:
.Set the motorcycle up on its center stand, place an oil pan beneath the engine.
.Remove the oil tube lower mounting bolts, and take the oil tube lower ends off the engine. There is the
0 ring at each lower end of the oil tube.
A. Oil Cooler
B. Oil Cooler Covers
C. Mounting Allen Bolts
Installation Note:
1. Tightening order and tightening torque for each bolt and nut are shown in the Table N35.
324 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 MODEL
Table N35 Oil Cooler lnstallation
-
Part Name
- .
1
2
3
4
5
Oil Cooler Mounting Allen Bolts (4)
O i l Tube Lower Mounting Bolts (4)
Oil Tube Upper Mounting Nuts (2)
Oil Cooler Mounting Allen Bolts (4)
Oil Tube Upper Mounting Nuts (2)
1
Tightening
Toraue
I
Loosely with hand
1.0 kg-m (87 in-lbs)
Loosely with hand
1.0 kg-m (87 in-lbs)
2.3 kg-m (1 6.5 ft-lbs)
To prevent damage to the oil tube fittings, keep them with a wrench from turning during the oil tube upper mounting nuts tightening or loosening.
2. Check the oil level and add more if necessary (Pg. 24).
Removal:
.Remove the upper mounting cap nuts and lockwashers
(2 ea).
@Remove the lower mounting bolts, lockwashers, and flat washers ( 2 ea).
.Remove the fairing.
F A I R I N G (on KZ550D)
A. Fairing
Windshield Installation
A. Upper Mounting Cap Nuts
(W)
1. Screw
2. Washer
3. Nut
4. Windshield
5. Trim
6. Fairing
7. Bracket
8. Rubber Damper
A. Lower Mounting Bolts
Headlight (on KZ550D)
SUPPLEMENT FOR
1981
MODEL
325
Installation Note:
1. I f the windshield is replaced with a new one, install i t on the fairing as shown in Fig. N137.
HEADLIGHT (on
Removal:
KZ550D)
@Remove the fairing (Pg. 324).
@Take out the retaining screws.
@Swing the outer rim out from the housing. and dis- connect the headlight socket from the rear f ; the unit.
1. Pivot Screw x 2
2. Outer Rim
3. Rubber Damper x 2
4. Screw x 4
5 . Nut x 2
6. Inner Rim
7. Semi-sealed Beam Unit
8. Mounting Rim
9. Headlight Bulb
10. Bulb Stop
11. Rubber Boot
12. Adjusting Screw
13. Collar x 2
14. Lockwasher x 2
15. Screw x 2
16. Spring
17. Spring Seat
N u t
Headlight Housing
N u t x 2
Lockwasher x 2
Collar x 2
Rubber Damper x 2
Rubber Damper x 2
Flat Washer x 2
Bolt x 2
Bolt
Lockwasher
Flat Washer
326 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 MODEL
*Remove the rubber boot.
@Push the bulb stop and turn i t counterclockwise so that the bulb stop can be removed, and then remove the bulb.
When handling the quartz-halogen bulb, never touch the glass portion with bare hands. Always use a clean cloth. Oil contamination from hands or dirty rags can reduce bulb life or cause the bulb t o explode.
@Remove the pivot screws, nuts, and rubber dampers, and the beam horizontal adjusting screw. The nut, spring seat, and spring will come o f f with the adjusting screw.
*Separate the outer rim from the inner rim.
*Remove the screws, and separate the semi-sealed beam u n i t from the inner rim and mounting rim.
Turn Signal Assy (on KZ550D)
Installation Note:
1. The top o f the semi-sealed beam unit i s marked
"TOP".
1. Screw x 2
2. Lens
3. Gasket
4. Bulb
5 . Turn Signal Assy
(m)
6. Rubber Damper
7. Rubber Damper
8. Flat Washer
9. Lockwasher
10. Nut
A. TOP Mark
2. Adjust the headlight after installation (Pg. 32).
TURN SIGNAL ASSY (on
KZ550D)
Refer t o Pgs. 138- 139, noting the following:
@Tighten the turn signal mounting nuts to 1.3 kg-m
(1 13 in-ibs) o f torque.
Don't apply a torque more than 1.5 kg-m nuts. Over-tightening may cause the damage of the turn signal assy.
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 MODEL 327
Maintenance
CYLINDER HEAD VALVE
Valve seat cutters (special tools) are newly available to repair the valve seat. See the following exceptions.
Table N36 Valve Seating Area
I /
Inlet
I
Exhaust
I
I
Outside Diameter
1
27 mm
1
23 m m
I
1
Width
1
0.5-1.0mm
7
Valve seat inspection
The valve must seat in the valve seat evenly around the circumference over the specified area. I f the seating area i s too wide, the seating pressure per u n i t o f area i s re- duced, which may result in compression leakage and carbon accumulation on the seating surface. I f the seating area is too narrow, heat transfer from the valve is reduced and the valve will overheat and warp. Uneven seating, or seat damage will cause compression leakage.
*Remove the valve, and check to see i f the valve and valve guide are in good condition before valve seat in- spection.
*Apply machinist's dye t o the valve seat, and then use a lapper to tap the valve lightly into place.
*Remove the valve, and note where the dye adheres t o the valve seating surface. The distribution o f the dye on the seating surface gives an indication o f seat con-, dition.
*If the distribution of the dye shows uneven seating or seat damage, or i f the seating area is out o f the specified range repair the valve seat.
Valve seat repair
*First, cut the seating surface o f the valve seat w i t h the
45" seat cutter, cutter holder, and bar (special tools).
Cut only the amount necessary to make a good surface; overcutting will reduce the valve clearance, possibly making i t no longer adjustable.
NOTE: When using the cutter, be sure t o apply engine oil to the cutting part before grinding and also wipe o f f ground particles adhering to the cutter with washing oil.
Valve Seat Cutter
(rn)
Valve and Valve Seat
I
Valve Seat Contact
1. Valve
2. Valve Seat
3. Seating Area Outside Diameter
4. Seating Area Width
1. Cutter
2. Cutter Holder 5.5 mm (57001 -1 125)
3. Bar (57001 -1 128)
*Next, cut the outermost surface with the outside cutter
(special tool) so that the valve seating surface will have the specified outside diameter.
*Then, cut the surface inside the seating surface w i t h the inside cutter (special tool) so that the seating surface will have the specified width.
GOOD TOO WIDE TOO NARROW UNEVEN
328 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 MODEL
Cutting Valve Seat
1. Original Seating Surface
2. C u t seating surface with following seat cutters to obtain new seating surface:
Inlet: Seat Cutter stamped
Exhaust: Seat Cutter stamped '2 (57001 -1 1 14)
3. New Seating Surface
4. Cut this surface to adjust outside diameter o f new seating surface with following outside cutter:
Inlet: Outside Cutter stamped (81 (57001-1 120)
Exhaust: Seat Cutter stamped fi (57001-1 11 9)
5. Cut this surface to obtain correct width with following inside cutter:
Inlet and Exhaust: Inside Cutter stamped fl
(57001 -1 123)
6. Corrective Seating Surface
After cutting, lap the valve to properly match the valve and valve seat surfaces. Start o f f with coarse lapping compound, and finish with fine compound.
@Apply compound to the valve seat, and tap the valve lightly into place while rotating it with a lapper. Re- peat this until a smooth, matched surface i s obtained.
@When lapping i s completed, check the valve installed height and adjust i f necessary (Pg. 170).
Lapping Valve Seat
(ma)
For 1981 model except for KZ550C, refer to Pgs.
194- 196, 288
-
292 noting the following table.
Table N37 Tire, Air Pressure (measured when cold)
I
Airpressure
/
Size
1
TYDe
Make)
97'5-
I
2r=
2.8 kg/cm2 4pR
225 kPa)
(40 psi)
280 kPa)
3.75H-I8
@ 3.755-1 8
4PR
DUNLOP,
K130,
Tubeless
DUN LOP,
K l 2 7 ,
65 kg Q 2.5 kg/cm2
Tubeless
(36 psi,
@ : KZ400J Q : US model for KZ550A
For KZ550C, see Table N7 on Pg. 289 noting the following.
NOTE: Tires on KZ550C US and Canadian models are the white letter tires.
These tires have the white letters on the side walls. When handling the white letter tire, observe the following to avoid contamination of the white letters.
1. Keep the tire wrapped until required for assembly to the rim.
2. Avoid the white letters on one tire touching the black rubber (tread, bead, etc.) on another.
3. Use only soap and/or water to clean the white letters.
Do not use gasoline or chemical solvents.
DISC
BRAKE
See the following tables for 1981 model's disc brakes.
Table N38 Master Cylinder Parts
Measurement
1 1-
Single Rear
I
Cylinder Inside Diameter 12.78
Piston Outside Diameter 12.50 15.67 13.80
I
Primarv Cut, Diameter
1
12.8
1
16.0
1
14.0
1
Secondary Cup Diameter 13.1 16.4 14.6
Spring Free Length 47.2
15.95
,
34.8
14.08
32.4
1. Lapper
2. Valve Seat
3. Valve
Table N39 Caliper Parts
I M e a s u r G T - 1
Service Limit
I
Cylinder Inside Diameter
/
42.92 mm
I
Piston Outside Diameter
1
42.75 mm
I
1
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 M O D E L 329
R E A R SHOCK ABSORBER
For 1981 model except for KZ550C; refer to Pgs.
21 0
-
21 1, 296, noting the following. See Pg. 296 for
KZ550C.
Shock Absorber Spring Force
(KZ400J/500B/550A,B)
@iq)
F R O N T FORK
For 1981 model except for KZ550C, refer to Pgs.
207
294
-
21 0, 294
-
296, noting the following. See Pgs. -
296 for KZ550C.
Table N40 Fork Oil
S A E
5W
20 about
225 cc
@ : KZ55OD
245 t 2.5 cc
@ 244
+
2.5 cc
520 t 4 mm
@ 5 1 7 k 4 m m
(from the top of the inner tube)
Table N41 Fork Spring Free Length
I
Service Limit
1
562 mm
I
Front Fork Load/Compression Stroke
Relationship (on KZ400J/500B/550A,B)
(mj
Compression (mm)
Shock Absorber Spring Force
(KZ550D)
(rn)
-5
I
40 80 120 1 6 0 1 8 0
Compression (mm)
Front Fork Load/Compression Stroke
Relationship (on KZ550D)
(rn)
1 1 0
-22 -8
25 50 7 5
Compression (mm)
100
-5
I 40 80 120 160175
Coinpressiori (mm)
SWING A R M
Because the grease nipple is deleted from the swing arm, the swing arm should be removed for its lubricating.
Refer to Pgs. 21 1
-
212 for other service information not specifically mentioned here.
330
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 MODEL
Swing arm lubrication
ln order for the wear slowly, i t in ance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart (Pg. 317).
Lubrication is also necessary after disassembly.
R~~~~~ the swing out the old grease, and apply grease to the needle bearings.
I f either the high or low beam burns out, the reserve lighting system switches over to the remaining filament automatically, and lights the white headlight failure indicator light to show that the headlight bulb must be replaced. I f the high beam filament burns out, the low beam i s automatically turned on; if low beam burns out, the high beam i s turned on but more dimly than normal- ly.
NOTE: Current is always flowing slightly in the head- light failure indicator light when the main switch and ignition switch are "ON" position. So you may notice the indicator light glimmers unless the headlight fila- ments burn out.
Reserve lighting system inspection
.Remove the headlight unit.
.Disconnect the headlight socket and connect the three terminals o f headlight bulb with corresponding leads using three suitable insulated wires.
Check of Reserve Lighting System
(rn)
RESERVE LIGHTING SYSTEM
The 1981 models for US and Canada contain a reserve lighting system in the headlight circuit. This system is a safety device that keeps the headlight on i f one of the filaments burns out.
Headlight Circuit (on US and Canadian models)
Head light
High Beam
Indicator Light
Headlight
Failure lndicator Light
Tail Light
Reserve Lighting Device q
=
# \ f - c
<
--
*
\
L J
---(
20A F
Ignition Switch
Running
Position Tachometer Speedometer
Lights Lights Lights
+
Battery
*Turn on the headlight and set the dimmer switch t o the low beam position.
*Disconnect the wire which i s connected to the red/ yellow lead to simulate a bad low beam filament. A t this time the high beam should go on more dimly than normal, and the white headlight failure indicator light should come on. switch to the high beam position.
*Disconnect the wire which i s connected to the red/ black leads to simulate high beam failure. A t this time the low beam should come on and the white indicator light should light.
Dimmer switch inspection
Table N42 shows the connections in the dimmer switch for both high and low beam.
.Remove the fuel tank, and disconnect the leads to the left switch housing.
.Use an ohmmeter to see that only the connections shown in the table have continuity (zero ohms).
*If the switch has open or a short, i t can be disassembled for repair. The contact surfaces may be cleaned, but no internal parts are available for replacement.
*If any parts are not repairable, the switch must be replaced as a unit.
Table N42 Dimmer Switch Connections
(for Reserve Lighting model)
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 MODEL 331
Trouble (a): When one filament i s burned out, the other i s not turned on.
OExamine the voltage of bluelorange lead by apply- ing the (+) probe o f voltmeter t o the lead. When the meter reading i s about 12 V, both filaments o f the headlight are burned out or the black/yellow lead i s broken. When the meter reading i s less than about
12 V, advance t o the next step.
OExamine the voltage of the blue lead. I f the meter reading i s about 12 V, the reserve lighting device i s defective. When the reading is 0 V, the ignition switch or wiring harness i s broken.
Trouble (b): Both filaments for upper beam and lower beam are turned on at the same time.
OExamine the voltage of the bluelorange lead. When the meter reading i s about 12 V, the reserve lighting device i s defective. When the reading i s 0 V, the dimmer switch is defective.
Trouble (c): The high beam i s not dimmed when the low beam burns out and the high one i s turned on automatically.
OExamine the voltage of the redlblack lead. I f the meter reading i s about 12 V, the reserve lighting device i s defective. I f the reading i s 0 V, the wiring harness i s broken.
Trouble ( d ) : The failure indicator light i s not turned on when the headlight filament burns out.
OExamine the voltage of the light greenlred or green/ blue lead. When the meter reading i s about 12 V, the indicator light burns out or i s not grounded.
When the reading i s 0 V, the reserve lighting device i s defective.
Reserve lighting wiring inspection
.Unlock the seat, swing i t open, and then pull out the
6-pin connector of the reserve lighting device.
A. Reserve Lighting Device
*Turn on the ignition switch to "ON" position.
*Check the voltage of each lead through the 6-pin con- nector by referring to the following procedure.
NOTE: Set a voltmeter to 25V DC range, and always ground the (-) probe of the voltmeter.
AUTOMATIC TURN SIGNAL CANCELLING
SYSTEM
(on
KZ550C)
The motorcycle on KZ550C contains a automatic turn signal cancelling system.
When the turn signal selector switch i s i n the A
(Automatic) position, a solenoid turns o f f the turn signal after i t has been on for 4 seconds, and from that time the motorcycle has traveled an additional 50 meters.
The cancelling system consists of the battery (power source), turn signal control unit, distance sensor, sole- noid, and turn signal switch. When the turn signal switch i s pushed to the left or right, the turn signals start flashing and the control unit starts counting o f f 4 seconds. A t the end of this time, the control u n i t starts calculating distance traveled using pulses from the dis- tance sensor in the speedometer. When the motorcycle has traveled 50 meters, the control unit operates the solenoid, which returns the turn signal switch t o the o f f position.
I f the turn signal cancelling system does n o t function properly, first check all the wiring connections carefully,
332 SUPPLEMENT FOR
1981
MODEL and then inspect the distance sensor and turn signal switch/solenoid assembly. I f all these are good, replace the turn signal control unit.
Distance sensor inspection
.Open the headlight housing, disconnect the 4-pin con- nector from the speedometer, and remove the speed- ometer cable lower end from the speedometer gear housing using pliers.
C o n n e c t an ohmmeter across to the sensor leads (red and light green leads), and check continuity as follows.
.Turning the speedometer inner cable slowly, count how many times the sensor shows continuity. The ohm- meter should show continuity and then open four times per revolution.
*If it does not, replace the speedometer.
Turn signal and selector switch inspection
First check that the turn signal switch and selector switch connections.
.Remove the fuel tank, and unplug the 6-pin connectors from the left switch housing.
.Check the turn signal switch and selector switch con- nections according t o Table N43 and N44.
*If the switch has an open circuit or a short, it can be disassembled for repair. The contact surfaces may be cleaned, but no internal parts are available for replace- ment.
*If any parts are not repairable, the switch must be replaced as a unit.
Table N43 Selector Switch Connections
Switch
Table N44 Turn Signal Switch Connections
I IGray lorange 1' reen
1 Red/ Whitel White/ Blue/
White
1
Green
1
Red
1
White
1
A. 4-pin Connector from the speedometer
B. Turn the speedometer inner cable.
Turn Signal Cancelling System (on KZ550C)
Turn Signal Switch
L 0 p
1
I
I
I
I
I
1
I
Turn Signal
Control Unit
Next check that the solenoid operates properly when i t receives a pulse from the control unit.
.Switch the turn signal switch t o either side, connect a lead to the positive (+) side o f the battery and touch i t s other end t o the whitelgreen lead momentarily. A t
Turn Signal
&
Switch
(
Solenoid
(
Distance
1
Sensor
1
WIG
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 MODEL 333
Table N45
., .
Meter Range
25V DC
Meter
Connections*
-
Yellow,
BlueiWhite
Meter (+)
+
WhitelRed lgnition
Switch
ON
O F F
ON
OFF
"Connect the meter negative (-) lead t o ground. this time the solenoid should return the turn signal switch to the o f f position.
*If it does not do this for both right and left positions, replace the switch assembly.
Do not connect the battery lead to the (CAUTIONI whitelgreen lead for more than a few seconds, as it could burn out the solenoid.
Wiring inspection
C o n n e c t all connectors.
.Pull o f f the right side cover.
.Measure the voltage at the 6-pin connector from the turn signal control unit as shown in Table N45.
*If any one of the meter readings shows an improper values, check the wiring and connections of the turn signal switch, distance sensor, and turn signal control unit. Repl&ce the turnsignal control u n i t i f a l l o f them turn out good.
NOTE: The turn signal control u n i t i s located in the right side cover.
Selector Switch
Position
A
M
A
M
LOW FUEL WARNING SYSTEM
(on
KZ550C)
This i s a system that warns the rider when there i s only about '/, tank of fuel remaining. I t consists o f a fuel level sender inside the tank and a warning light.
The same bulb i s used for both the low fuel warning light and brake light failure indicator light.
Low Fuel Warning Circuit (on KZ550C)
Fuel Level Low Fuel
Sender Warning m
Light
Ignition @
Switch
(m57)
Turn Signal
Switch Position
Any (R, L, Neu.)
Any
R or L
Neutral
Reading
Battery voltage
0 V
Battery voltage
0 V
P
When the ignition switch i s turned on, the warning light does not come on if the fuel level i s higher than the warning level. If the fuel level i s low, the light comes on and stay on continuously until fuel is added.
Warning system trouble
Before starting t o troubleshoot the fuel warning system, first check that the battery i s good (Pg. 214) and make sure that all connectors in the system are clean and tight.
Fuel leiel i s low but the warning light does not come on.
C h e c k that the warning light comes on when the brake lever or pedal is applied.
.Disconnect the 2-pin connector t o the fuel level sender, set the meter to the 25V DC or higher range, and connect the (+) meter lead to the green/ white lead and the (-) lead to the black/yellow lead.
.Turn on the ignition switch and read the meter.
*If i t does not read battery voltage, the wiring is at fault.
*If the meter does read battery voltage, the sensor i s defective.
Fuel level is not low but the warning light stays on continuously.
C h e c k that the brake light circuit is good.
*If it is good, the sender i s bad.
Warning light goes on and o f f irregularly.
C h e c k that the fuel i s well above the low level.
C h e c k that the wiring .is not shorting out against other parts.
.Check that the battery charging voltage i s normal
(Pg. 214).
* I f all the above checks are good, check that the sender i s not internally shorting intermittently.
1
Battery
)
CARBURETORS (on KZ550D)
Table N46 shows the carburetor specifications for
KZ550D.
Table N46 Carburetor S~ecifications (on KZ550D)
T Y pe
T K K22P-2F
T K K22P-2E
: US model
Main Jet J e t Needle
#94
4D93-2
@ 4D92
Pilot Jet Pilot Screw
1 f turn out
#32
Throttle Valve
Cutaway
2.5
Fuel Level (mm)
Design
29.5
Sertice
3.5
*
1
334
SUPPLEMENT
FOR
1981 MODEL
FUEL
GAUGE (on KZ550D)
The fuel gauge i s electrically operated through a sender in the fuel tank. A float in the tank rides up and down with the level o f the fuel, changing the internal resistance of the sender and in this way changing the amount of current flowing through the meter.
Fuel Gauge Circuit (on KZ550D) (~158)
.Check that the float moves up and down smoothly without binding or hitting the fuel tank. I t should go down under its own weight. I f the float does not move smoothly, replace the sender.
8
&
:
'-+
.
$
\
Y
0
- m
( n
-'
Battery
: s
\
. 8
-
C
Black/Yellow
I
Float
Gauge circuit check
.Disconnect the 2-pin connector t o the sender under- neath the fuel tank, and turn on the ignition switch.
A t this time the gauge should read E.
.Short together the black/yellow and white/yellow leads on the gauge side of the 2-pin connector. A t this time the gauge should read F.
A. Lowest Position B. Highest Position
*Measure the resistance o f the fuel level sender with an ohmmeter.
Table N47 Resistance of Fuel Level Sender
I
Tank
Fuel (Highest position)
I
Resistance
1-5R
I
Empty (Lowest position)
A. 2-pin Connector from main harness
* I f the above E and F readings are correct, the fuel level sender i s bad. I f these reading are not obtained, the trouble is with the gauge or wiring.
Fuel level sender check
.Remove the fuel tank and remove the fuel level sender
(Pg. 322).
*If the ohmmeter does not show the values in the table or the reading does not vary smoothly as the float level changes, replace the sender.
.Inspect the leads and connector.
*If they show any damage, replace the sender.
Gauge check
.Remove the fuel tank and disconnect the 9-pin con- nector from the gauge meter. Check the resistance o f the meter using an ohmmeter as shown in Table N48.
I f the resistance in this test i s found to be less than the proper value, there i s a short in the meter. No reading
( 0 3 ) indicates an open circuit. In either case, replace the gauge meter.
Table N48 Gauge Resistance
I
Connections
One meter lead
+
BlackIYellow lead terminal
/
Reading
60
-
80 R
I
Wiring check
C o n n e c t a voltmeter to the 9-pin connector from the main harness as shown in the table, and turn on the ignition switch.
*If the voltmeter reading does not correspond t o the table, the wiring is bad. Check the leads and connec- tors, and replace or repair any damaged wiring.
Table N49 Wiring Check
I
Meter
- Connections Reading
I I
2SV DC
I I
I
Meter (+) -+
Brown ~ e a d
Meter (-)
+
I 1
Battery voltage
I I
Black!Yellow Lead
I
I
NOTE: With one exception the gauge is considered t o be good even if the voltmeter needle fluctuates. The exception i s .when the trouble i s over-indication on the gauge (or indicating near the "F" mark when empty).
SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 MODEL 335
336 SUPPLEMENT FOR 1981 MODEL
Appendix
SPECIAL TOOLS
The following special tools are newly available now.
1. The valve seat cutters which can be used for all
4-stroke engines are manufactured by electrically nickelplating diamond particles on to the cutter body and can grind the valve seat in constant quality, which assures smooth finish o f the seat surface.
2. There are selections o f inner and outer drivers to choose in the bearing driver set (PIN: 57001 -1 1 29), which can be used to press in the bearings on the engine and chassis o f all models. Also, this set can replace the older bearing drivers o f the following part numbers.
57001 -1 38
57001 -282
57001 -286
57001 -289
57001 -296
57001 -1 39
57001 -283
57001 -287
57001 -290
57001 -298
57001 -140
57001 -284
57001 -288
57001 -293
57001 -1 053
REF. NO.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
PART NO.
57001-1111
57001 -1 1 12
57001-1 I4
57001-1119
57001 120
57001 -1 125
57001-1128
-1 129
DESCRIPTION
Valve Seat Cutter Case
Separate Case
Seat Cutter 45' - (EX)
Seat Cutter 45'
-
(IN)
Outside Cutter 32' - ( E X )
Outside Cutter 32' - (IN)
Inside Cutter 60' - (EX and IN)
Cutter Holder 5.5 mm
Bar
Bearing Driver Set
Q'TY
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1 set
INDEX
343
Index
Additional Considerations for Racing
...............
242. 305
Air Cleaner
.............................................................
154
Air Cleaner Element
Air Suction Valve
................................................
.............................................
49
Air Valve (Tubeless Tire)
Alternator
..........................................
291
.................................................................
21 7
Alternator Rotor
Alternator Stator
.....................................................
76
......................................................
75
Automatic Turn Signal Cancelling System
Axle
...............
331
......................................................................
195
Cylinder Head Cover
................................................ 270
Cylinder Head Valve
.........................................
164. 327
Disc Brake
.................
29. 11 8. 127. 198. 276. 294. 328
Drive Chain
........................
28. 152. 196. 265. 285. 292
Drive Shaft (Transmission)
Drum Brake
..................................... 106
....................................................
278. 292
Ball Bearing
Battery
...........................................................
192
...................................................................
214
Bearing
Ball
Wheel
...................................................................
Needle
Steering
1 92
............................................................ 192
............................................................
146
......................................... 1 17. 126. 196. 276
..........
29. 11 8. 127. 198. 266. 276. 278. 292. 294 Brake
Brake Disc
.......................................................
203. 276
Brake Fluid
...............................................................
204
Brake Hose
Brake Light
.......................................................
1 23. 1 32
...........................................................
140
Brake Light Circuit
Brake Light Switch
Brake Pad
.................................................
232
...........................................
.................................................
Breather (Oil)
Breather Cover
1 18. 127. 276
.............................
.........................................................
68
Bypass Valve (Oil Filter)
.
192
.......................................... 81
Cable
Clutch
.................................................................
Speedometer
Tachometer
......................................................
134
136
.......................................................
136
Throttle
.................................................
1 8. 134. 283
Caiiper (Brake)
Camshaft
................................
11 9. 128. 201. 277
...................................................
Camshaft Chain
57. 162. 271
..............................................
109. 164
Camshaft Chain Guide
Camshaft Sprocket
......................................
.............................................
6 I 271
Capacitor
.........................................................
77. 223
Carburetor
......
19. 49. 156. 242. 263. 268. 286. 305. 333
Carburetor Holder
..................................................
272
Chain
Camshaft
Drive
....................................................
109. 164
.............................
28. 152. 196. 265. 285. 292
Primary
......................................................
109. 179
Chain Guide (Camshaft)
Charging System
...................................
66. 164
......................................................
Clutch
Engine
.............................................
22. 78. 179. 319
Starter Motor
Clutch Cable
......................................................
228
..........................................................
Clutch Release
Connecting Rod
134
...................................................
70. 319
..............................................
11 0. 171
Contact Breaker
Crankcase Split
.................................................
76. 222
.........................................................
96
Crankshaft
Cylinder Block
Cylinder Head
....................................................
64. 171
....................................................
Electric Starter System
Element (Air Cleaner)
..................................
225. 302
.................................................
49
Engine Lubrication
...................................................
188
Engine Oil
.................................................................. 24
Engine Oil Pump
.................................................
83. 190
Engine Performance Curves
Engine Removal
........................
8. 258. 259
.................................................
................................................
92. 274
Engine Sprocket
Engine Sprocket Cover
71. 272
...............................................
69
External Shift Mechanism
........................................... 71
Fairing
................................................................... 324
Filter (Oil)
..........................................................
81. 191
Fine Synchronization (Carburetor)
.....................
21. 263
Flow Chart
Disassem bly-Chassis
...........................................
114
Disassembly-Engine Installed
...............................
46
Disassembly -Engine Removed
Engine Removal
Fork Guide Bush
Fork Inner Tube
..............................
91
......................................................
......................................................
90
295
...............................................
209. 295
Fork Inner Tube
Fork Oil
...............................................
209. 295
...................... .
.
209. 295
Front and Rear Suspension Setting
Front Brake
...........................
265
................................................
29. 11 8. 276
Front Brake Light Switch
Front Caliper (Brake)
.......................................
141
...............
19.
Front Camshaft Chain Guide
Front Disc Brake
....................
1 2 7 7
....................................
..............................................
66
Front Fork
...............
147. 207. 264. 283. 294. 31 8. 329
Front Frok Guide Bush
.............................................
295
Front Fork Inner Tube
Front Fork Oil
.................................................
209. 295
Front Fork Spring
....................................
209. 295
...........................................
209. 295
Front Master Cylinder
.............................................
......................................................
121
Front Wheel
Fuel Gauge
11 5. 275
..............................................................
334
Fuel Level Sender
..........................................
321. 322
Fuel System
Fuel Tank
Fuel Tap
......................................................
24. 263
..........................................................
47. 155
....................................................
47. 155. 268
General Lubrication
Grease Seal
..........................................
33. 267
.............................................................. 195
Handlebar
......................................................
142. 283
Headlight
...........................................
32. 137. 321. 325
Headlight Unit
Horn
..............................................
230. 303
........................................
137. 321. 325
.........................................................................
235
IC Igniter
..................................................................
298
344
INDEX
Idle Gear (Starter Motor)
............................................
87
Idling Adjustment
Ignition Coil
..............................................
21, 263
.......................................................
57. 221
Ignition Switch
................................................. 141. 229
........................................
220. 297. 302 Ignition System
Ignition Timing
................................................... 12. 263
Indicator Light
..........................................
137. 140
Initial Synchronization-Mechanical (Carburetor)
Inner Tube (Front Fork)
......
19
................................... 209. 295
Introduction to Disassembly
.....................................
38
Kawasaki Cleaner Air System
Light
Brake
...................................................................
1 40
Headlight
......................................
32. 137. 321. 325
Indicator
Meter
Tail
.....................................................
137. 140
...................................................................
140
......................................................................
1 40
Turn Signal
...........................................................
138
Lighting System
.......................................
230. 303. 330
Locking Agnet
...........................................
39. 268. 321
Low Fuel Warning System
.......................................
333
Lubrication
Engine
.................................................................
1 88
General
.........................................................
3 3 267
Main Charged Items (1981 Model)
............................
Maintenance Chart (Periodic)
Master Cylinder
....................
................................
121
.
316
10. 262. 31 7
130. 200. 294
Meter
................................................................
Meter Light
140. 236
.............................................................
140
Model Identification
....................................
4. 252. 31 0
Muffler
.......................................................
56. 192. 269
Needle Bearing
Neutral Locator
Neutral Switch
........................................................
192
........................................................
185
..................................................
73. 230
Oil
Engine
....................................................................
24
Fork
............................................................
209. 295
Oil and Oil Filter Change
............................................
24
Oil Beather
..............................................................
192
................................................................
323 Oil Cooler
Oil Filter
............................................................
81. 191
Oil Filter Bypass Valve
Oil Level Inspection
................................................
...................................................
24
Oil Pressure Relief Valve
Oil Pressure Switch
..................................
82. 188
............................................
81. 188
Oil Pump (Engine)
Oil Seal
............................................
....................................................
83. 190
171. 192. 209
Output Shaft (Transmission)
....................................
109
Overshift Limiter
.....................................................
185
Pad (Brake)
...............................................
1 18. 127. 276
Performance Curves
Engine
....................................................
8. 258. 259
Running
..................................................
.......................
10. 262. 31 7 Periodic Maintenance Chart
Pick-up Coil
..............................................................
297
Pick-up Coil Assembly
........................................
273
Point Gap Adjatment
...............................................
13
Piston
...............................................................
Piston Ring
.........................................................
67. 171
Primary Chain
.................................................
Pump (Engine Oil)
67. 272
109. 179
............................................
83. 190
Quick Reference Guide
................................................
3
Rear Drum Brake
Rear Brake
............................................ 278. 292
.........................
Rear Brake Light Switch
Rear Caliper (Brake)
29. 127. 266. 278. 292. 320
...........................................
141
.............................................
128
Rear Camshaft Chain Guide
Rear Disc Brake
..........................................
Rear Master Cylinder
.......................................
66
29. 127. 320
........................................
130. 320
Rear Shock Absorber
...
28. 150. 210. 264. 296. 318. 329
.........................................................
Rear Sprocket
Rear Wheel
Rectifier
........................................................
Rear Wheel Coupling
...................................................................
218
Regulator/Rectifier
125
2 3 . 278
................................
125. 196. 281
..................................................
218
Relief Valve (Oil Pressure)
..................................
82. 188
..........................................
330 Reserve Lighting System
Rim
..................................................................
Ring (Piston)
194. 291
......................................................
67. 272
Rotor (Alternator)
......................................................
Running Performance Curves
76
.......................
9. 260. 261
Secondary Shaft
.................................................
84. 178
Service Data for KZ400 for KZ550
...........................................................
304
...........................................................
304
Shaft
Camshaft
Crankshaft
...................................................
162. 271
..................................................
Drive (Transmission)
Secondary
........................................
..................................................
109. 175
106
Output (Transmission)
.........................................
109
84. 178
Shock Absorber (Rear)
Shift Drum
.......
28. 150. 21 0. 264. 296. 31 8
................................................................
Shift Mechanism
Special Tools
......................................................
106
182
Shift Pedal Linkage
Spark Plug
..................................................
322
..................................................
12. 224. 242
...........................................
244. 305. 336
.......................................
6. 254. 256. 31 2 Specifications
Speedometer
....................................................
140. 236
Speedometer Cable
..................................................
136
.....................
11 6. 275. 292 Speedometer Gear Housing
Sprocket
......................
61. 71. 125. 197. 271. 272. 292
Starter Lockout Switch
Starter Motor
............................................
142
..................................... 73. 226. 272. 302
Starter Motor Circuit
Starter Motor Clutch
...............................................
Starter Motor Idle Gear
225
..........................................
84. 228
..............................................
87
Startor (Alternator)
Steering
....................................................
75
.....................................................................
Steering Stem
...................................................
.............................................
30
144. 206
Steering Stem Bearing
Suspension Setting
146
...................................................
265
Swing Arm
........................................
150. 21 1. 285. 329
Switch
Brake Light
Ignition
...........................................
30. 141. 318
...............................................................
141
Neutral
..........................................................
73. 230
Oil Pressure
..........................................................
81
Starter Lockout
..................................................
142
Tachometer
...................................................... 140. 236
Tachometer Cable
.....................................................
136
Tail Light
................................................................. 140
Tail/Brake Light
......................................................
140
Tank (Fuel)
........................................................
Throttle Cable
47. 155
........................................ 18. 134. 283
Timing Advancer
................................ 77. 223. 274. 302
Timing Test (Ignition)
........................................ 13. 14
Tire
.................................................. 133. 194. 281. 288
Tool (Special)
................................................... 244. 305
Torque and Locking Agent
Transmission
......................... 39. 268. 321
....................................................
104. 182
.....................................
Troubleshooting Guide
Tube (Tire)
Tubeless Tire
237. 304
.............................................................. 133
............................................................
281
Turn Signal Assembly
......................................
Turn Signal Cancelling System
Turn Signal Circuit
138. 326
.................................
..................................................
331
232
Turn Signal Light
....................................................
138
Upper Camshaft Chain Guide
.................................... 66
Vacuum Switch Valve
......................................
269. 287
Valve
Air (Tire)
............................................................ 291
Air Suction
.................................................
270. 287
Cylinder Head
.................................
62. 164. 166. 327
Vacuum Switch
Vallve Clearance
........................................... 269. 287
.......................................................... 15
Valve Guide
Valve Seat
........................................................
62. 166
................................................................
166
Valve Spring
.............................................................. 170
Wheel
....................... 11 5. 123. 194. 275. 278. 288. 328
Wheel Balance
Wheel Bearing
...........................................................
................................. 1 17. 126. 195. 276
Wheel Coupling (Rear)
Wiring Diagram
....................................
31
125. 281
..........................................
248. 30.5. 337
INDEX 345

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